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diff --git a/14836-h/14836-h.htm b/14836-h/14836-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..886af9a --- /dev/null +++ b/14836-h/14836-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,28606 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Voyage in the 'Sunbeam', by Annie Allnut Brassey</title> + <style type="text/css"> + /*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ + <!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body {margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .linenum {position: absolute; top: auto; left: 4%;} /* poetry number */ + .blockquot {margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + .pagenum /* page numbers */ + {display: inline; /* none or inline */ + font-size:70%; + text-align: right; + padding: 0 0 0 0 ; + margin: 0 0 0 0; + position: absolute; right: 1%;} + .sidenote {width: 20%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em; margin-left: 1em; + float: right; clear: right; margin-top: 1em; + font-size: smaller; background: #eeeeee; border: dashed 1px;} + .ind20 {margin-left: 20%;} + .ind30 {margin-left: 30%;} + .bb {border-bottom: solid 2px;} + .bl {border-left: solid 2px;} + .bt {border-top: solid 2px;} + .br {border-right: solid 2px;} + .bbox {border: solid 2px;} + .author {text-align: right; margin-right: 5%;} + .ctr {text-align: center;} + .right {text-align: right;} + .lpad5 {text-align: left; padding-left: 5px;} + .heading {text-align: center; font-size: 125%;} + .iheading {text-align: center; font-style: italic; font-size: 125%;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align: super; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none;} + + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} + .poem br {display: none;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem span {display: block; margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i2 {display: block; margin-left: 1em;} + .poem span.i4 {display: block; margin-left: 2em;} + .poem span.i22 {display: block; margin-left: 11em;} + hr.full { width: 100%; } + a:link {color:blue; + text-decoration:none} + link {color:blue; + text-decoration:none} + a:visited {color:blue; + text-decoration:none} + a:hover {color:red} + pre {font-size: 8pt;} + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Voyage in the 'Sunbeam', by Annie Allnut +Brassey</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: A Voyage in the 'Sunbeam'</p> +<p>Author: Annie Allnut Brassey</p> +<p>Release Date: January 31, 2005 [eBook #14836]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE IN THE 'SUNBEAM'***</p> +<p> </p> +<h3>E-text prepared by Suzanne Shell, Ronald Holder,<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team</h3> +<p> </p> + +<table border="1" cellpadding="10"> + <tr> + <td valign="top"> + Transcriber's Notes: + </td> + <td> + 1. The first page of Chapter VIII: the last line of text was + partially missing, and a best guess was made on a few + words.<br /> + <br /> + 2. Page 72: Typograpical error, 'nndertaking' changed to + 'undertaking'.<br /> + <br /> + 3. Page 55, paragraph starting "Santa Anna', corrected + 'past' to 'part'. + </td> + </tr> +</table> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> + <p><span class="pagenum">Page iii<a name="Page_iii" + id="Page_iii"></a></span></p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="title-page" + id="title-page"></a> <img src="images/titlepg.gif" + width="501" + height="800" + alt="Title Page" + title="Title Page" /> + </div> + + + <p> </p> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page iv<a name="Page_iv" + id="Page_iv"></a></span></p> + + <h6>Chicago:<br /> + Belford, Clarke & Co., Publishers,</h6> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page v<a name="Page_v" + id="Page_v"></a></span></p> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <p> </p> + + <p class="iheading">DEDICATION</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <i>TO THE FRIENDS in many climes and countries, of + the<br /> + <br /> + white and coloured races, and of every grade in + society,<br /> + <br /> + who have made our year of travel a year of happiness,<br /> + <br /> + these pages are dedicated by the ever grateful + Author</i><br /> + <br /> + <a name="Illus_004" + id="Illus_004"></a> <img src="images/004.gif" + width="421" + height="500" + alt="Portrait of the Author" + title="Portrait of the Author" /> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page vii<a name="Page_vii" + id="Page_vii"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading">PREFACE.</p> + + <p>This volume needs no elaborate preface. A general sketch of + the voyage which it describes was published in the 'Times' + immediately after our return to England. That letter is + reprinted here as a convenient summary of the 'Sunbeam's' + performances. But these prefatory lines would indeed be + incomplete if they did not contain a well-deserved tribute to + the industry and accuracy of the author. The voyage would not + have been undertaken, and assuredly it would never have been + completed, without the impulse derived from her perseverance + and determination. Still less would any sufficient record of + the scenes and experiences of the long voyage have been + preserved had it not been for her painstaking desire not only + to see everything thoroughly, but to record her impressions + faithfully and accurately. The practised skill of a + professional writer cannot <span class="pagenum">Page + viii<a name="Page_viii" + id="Page_viii"></a></span>reasonably be expected in these + simple pages, but their object will have been attained if + they are the means of enabling more home-keeping friends to + share in the keen enjoyment of the scenes and adventures + they describe.</p> + + <p class="author">THOMAS BRASSEY</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <img src="images/t_007.jpg" + width="240" + height="139" + alt="Illustration" + title="Illustration" /> + <a href="images/007.gif"><br /> + View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page ix<a name="Page_ix" + id="Page_ix"></a></span></p> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <p> </p> + + <p class="heading">CONTENTS.</p> + + <table cellspacing="0" + cellpadding="4" + border="0" + summary="Table of Contents"> + <tr> + <td align="right">CHAPTER</td> + + <td> </td> + + <td align="right">PAGE</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">I.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_I"><span class="smcap">Farewell + to Old England</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">1</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">II.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_II"><span class="smcap">Madeira, + Teneriffe, and Cape de Verde Islands</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">13</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">III.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_III"><span class="smcap">Palma to + Rio de Janeiro</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">33</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">IV.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><span class="smcap">Rio de + Janeiro</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">46</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">V.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_V"><span class="smcap">The River + Plate</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">67</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">VI.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><span class="smcap">Life on + the Pampas</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">81</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">VII.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><span class="smcap">More + about the Argentine Republic</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">97</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">VIII.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><span class="smcap">River + Plate to Sandy Point, Straits of + Magellan</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">111</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">IX.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><span class="smcap">Sandy + Point to Lota Bay</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">134</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">X.</td> + + <td> + <a href="#CHAPTER_X"><span class="smcap">Chili</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">155</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XI.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XI"><span class="smcap">Santiago + and Valparaiso</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">177</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XII.</td> + + <td> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XII"><span class="smcap">Valparaiso + to Tahiti</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">194</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XIII.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII"><span class="smcap">The + South Sea Islands</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">211</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XIV.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV"><span class="smcap">At + Tahiti</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">227</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XV.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XV"><span class="smcap">Tahiti to + Sandwich Islands—Kilauea by Day and by + Night</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">265</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XVI.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI"><span class="smcap">Hawaiian + Sports</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">275</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XVII.</td> + + <td> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XVII"><span class="smcap">Honolulu—Departure + for Japan</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">291</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XVIII.</td> + + <td> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII"><span class="smcap">Honolulu + to Yokohama</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">303</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XIX.</td> + + <td> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XIX"><span class="smcap">Yokohama</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">316</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XX.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XX"><span class="smcap">Kioto, + late Miaco</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">333</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XXI.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI"><span class="smcap">The + Inland Sea</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">353</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XXII.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII"><span class="smcap">To + Canton up the Pearl River</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">376</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XXIII.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII"><span class="smcap">From + Macao to Singapore</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">392</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XXIV.</td> + + <td> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV"><span class="smcap">Singapore</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">408</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XXV.</td> + + <td> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXV"><span class="smcap">Ceylon</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">426</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XXVI.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI"><span class="smcap">To + Aden</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">443</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XXVII.</td> + + <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII"><span class="smcap">Via + Suez Canal</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">456</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right">XXVIII.</td> + + <td> + <a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII"><span class="smcap">'Home'</span></a></td> + + <td align="right">473</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="right"> </td> + + <td><a href="#APPENDIX">APPENDIX</a></td> + + <td align="right">489</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p class="heading"><i>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</i></p> + + <p class="heading"><i>WOODCUTS IN TEXT.</i></p> + + <table cellspacing="0" + cellpadding="4" + border="0" + summary="List of Illustrations"> + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#title-page">Cape + Brassey: Smyth's Sound</a></span></td> + + <td><i>Title-page</i></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_004">Portrait + of the Author</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">v</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_016">Sunset on + Southampton Water</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">1</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_020">Nearly + Overboard</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_024">The + Derelict 'Carolina' laden with Port + Wine</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">9</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_028">Our First + View of Madeira</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">13</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_032">Madeira + Fish-carrier</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">17</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_037">A Cozy + Corner</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">22</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_046">A + Palm-tree in a Garden, Orotava, + Teneriffe</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">31</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_052">Tarafal + Bay, St. Antonio</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">37</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_054">Father + Neptune</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">39</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_055">His Doctor + (Crossing the Line)</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">40</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_056">Lulu and + her Puppies</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">41</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_057">Vespers</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">42</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_061">Botafogo + Bay</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">46</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_071">The Slave + Village, Fazenda, Santa Anna</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">56</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_082">The Three + Navigators</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">67</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_092">Prairie + Dogs and Owls</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">77</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_099">Devil's + Horns</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">84</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_102">La + Calera</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">87</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_119">Indians at + Azul</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">104</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_121">Lassoing + Horses</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">106</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_127">'Monkshaven' + on Fire</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">112</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_130">Shipwrecked + Crew coming on Board</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">115</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_142">Fuegian + Weapons</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">127</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_144">Fuegian + Bow and Arrows</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">129</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_146">Pin for + fastening Cloak, Made from a Dollar beaten + out</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">131</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_147">Fuegian + Boat and Oars</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">132</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_150">Bartering + with Fuegians</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">135</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_152">Thornton + Peaks</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">137</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_154">Glaciers, + Snowy Sound</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">139</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_159">Unfit + Bay</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">144</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_160">Two-peaked + Mountain</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">145</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_162">Indian + Reach</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">147</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_168">Catching + Cape-Pigeons in the Gulf of + Peñas</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">153</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_179">Chilians + waiting for the Train</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">164</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_182">A Fellow + Passenger</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">167</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_186">Baths of + Cauquenes</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">171</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_188">Up the + Valley towards the Andes</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">173</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_189">Cacti of + the Cordillera</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">174</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_190">Huasso + Huts</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">175</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_191">Huasso of + Chili</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">176</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_192">Morning + Mass at Santiago</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">177</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_196">What makes + Horses go in Chili</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">181</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_210">Juvenile + Scrubbers</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">195</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_212">Conversation + at Sea</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">197</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_219">Inscription + from Easter Island</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">204</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_223">Tatakotoroa or + Clarke Island</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">208</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_224">Going up + the Mast in a Chair</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">209</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_225">Children + looking up</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">209</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_229">Our First + Landing in the South Pacific, Hao or Bow + Island</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">214</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_235">Maitea</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">220</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_235">Maitea</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">220</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_236">Maitean + Boatman</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">221</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_241">Quarantine + Island, Papeete</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">226</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_242">Under the + Trees, Papeete</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">227</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_244">Chætodon + Tricolor</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">229</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_247">Chætodon + Plagmance</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">232</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_250">Waterfall + at Faataua</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">235</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_262">A Tahitian + Lady</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">247</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_266">Tropic + Feathers</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">251</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_268">Chætodon + Besantii</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">253</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_271">Tattoo in + the Tropics</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">256</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_294">Feather + Necklace</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">279</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_298">War + Necklace</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">283</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_299">Ancient + War Masks and Costumes from the Museum at + Honolulu</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">284</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_302">Chalcedon + Imperator</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">287</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_309">Feathered + Cloak and Helmets</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">294</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_310">The + Pali-Oahu</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">295</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_316">Zeus + Ciliaris</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">301</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_323">Amateur + Navigation</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">308</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_328">Little + Redcap</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">313</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_330">Japanese + Boats</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">315</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_331">Fujiyama, + Japan</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">316</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_342">A Drag + across the Sand in a Jinrikisha</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">327</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_343">Inoshima + by a Japanese Artist</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">328</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_344">Japanese + Boatman</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">329</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_345">Facsimile + of our Luncheon Bill</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">330</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_353">A Family + Group</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">338</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_364">Wayside + Travellers</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">349</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_372">Arrima. + The Village of Bamboo Basket Work</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">357</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_375">The Yacht + on Fire</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">360</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_378">Yoken San + or Sacred Mountain, Inland Sea</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">363</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_379">Hurusima, + Inland Sea</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">364</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_386">How we + were boarded by Chinese and dispersed + them</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">371</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_392">Chinese + Visiting Cards</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">377</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_394">Pearl + River</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">379</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_396">Bogue + Forts</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">381</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_397">Chinese + Pagoda and Boats</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">382</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_404">The French + Consulate, Canton</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">389</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_413">Chinese + Foot and Boot</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">398</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_429">Maharajah + of Johore's House</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">414</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_432">The Pet + Manis</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">417</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_434">Malacca</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">419</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_438">How the + Journal was written</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">423</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_454">Peacock + Mountain, Ceylon</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">439</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_466">Soumali + Indian, Aden</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">451</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_472">Straits of + Bab-el-Mandeb</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">457</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_477">Beating up + the Red Sea</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">462</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_488">Homeward + Bound</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">473</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_490">Faldetta, + Malta</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">475</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_492">Armoury in + the Governor's Palace, Valetta</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">477</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_497">Tangier</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">482</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_499">Vasco da + Gama</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">484</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_500">Belem + Cloister Gardens</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">485</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_502">Our + Welcome back off Hastings</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">487</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_503">Home at + Last</a></span></td> + + <td align="right">488</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p> </p> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <p> </p> + + <p class="heading"><i>NOTE.</i></p> + + <p>I have to thank Mr. W. Simpson, author of 'Meeting the Sun,' + for the passages given on pages 341 to 343 referring to the + Japanese temples and their priesthood.</p> + + <p>The vessel which has carried us so rapidly and safely round + the globe claims a brief description. She was designed by Mr. + St. Clare Byrne, of Liverpool and may be technically defined as + a screw composite three-masted topsail-yard schooner. The + engines, by Messrs. Laird, are of 70 nominal or 350 indicated + horse-power, and developed a speed of 10.13 knots at the + measured mile. The bunkers contain 80 tons of coal. The average + daily consumption is 4 tons, and the speed 8 knots in fine + weather. The principal dimensions of the hull are—length + for tonnage, 157 ft.; beam extreme, 27 ft. 6 in.; displacement + tonnage, 531 tons; area of midship section, 202 sq. ft.</p> + + <p class="author">A. B.<span class="pagenum">Page + 1<a name="Page_1" + id="Page_1"></a></span></p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> </p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_016" + id="Illus_016"></a> <img src="images/t_016.jpg" + width="240" + height="174" + alt="Illustration: Sunset on Southampton Water" + title="Illustration: Sunset on Southampton Water" /><br /> + <b>Sunset on Southampton Water</b><br /> + <a href="images/016.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p> </p> + + <h2>A VOYAGE IN THE 'SUNBEAM'.</h2> + + <p> </p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_I" + id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">FAREWELL TO OLD ENGLAND.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>Masts, spires, and strand receding on the + right</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>The glorious main + expanding on the bow</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p>At noon on July 1st, 1876, we said good-bye to the friends + who had come to Chatham to see us off, and began the first + stage of our voyage by steaming down to Sheerness, saluting our + old friend the 'Duncan,' Admiral Chads's flagship, and passing + through a perfect fleet of craft of all kinds. There was a + fresh contrary wind, and the Channel was as disagreeable as + usual under the circumstances. Next afternoon we were off + Hastings, where we had intended to stop and dine and meet some + friends; but, unfortunately the weather was not sufficiently + favourable <span class="pagenum">Page 2<a name="Page_2" + id="Page_2"></a></span> for us to land; so we made a long + tack out to sea, and, in the evening, found ourselves once + more near the land, off Beachy Head. While becalmed off + Brighton, we all—children included—availed + ourselves of the opportunity to go overboard and have our + first swim, which we thoroughly enjoyed. We had steam up + before ten, and again proceeded on our course. It was very + hot, and sitting under the awning turned out to be the + pleasantest occupation. The contrast between the weather of + the two following days was very great, and afforded a + forcible illustration of the uncertainties, perhaps the + fascinations, of yachting. We steamed quietly on, past the + 'Owers' lightship, and the crowds of yachts at Ryde, and + dropped anchor off Cowes at six o'clock.</p> + + <p>On the morning of the 6th a light breeze sprang up, and + enabled us to go through the Needles with sails up and funnel + down, a performance of which all on board felt very proud, as + many yachtsmen had pronounced it to be an impossibility for our + vessel to beat out in so light a breeze.</p> + + <p>We were forty-three on board, all told, as will be seen by + reference to the list I have given. We had with us, besides, + two dogs, three birds, and a charming Persian kitten belonging + to the baby. The kitten soon disappeared, and it was feared she + must have gone overboard down the hawse pipe. There was a faint + hope, however, that she might have been packed away with the + new sails, which had been stowed in a great hurry the day + before. Unhappily she was never found again, and the children + were inconsolable until they discovered, at Torquay, an + effective substitute for 'Lily.'</p> + + <p>The Channel was tolerably smooth outside the Isle of Wight, + and during the afternoon we were able to hold on our course + direct for Ushant. After midnight, however, the wind worked + gradually round to the W.S.W., and blew directly in our teeth. + A terribly heavy sea got up; and, as we were making little or + no progress, it was decided to <span class="pagenum">Page + 3<a name="Page_3" + id="Page_3"></a></span>put in to Torquay or Dartmouth, and + there await a change. We anchored in Torbay, about half a + mile from the pier, at 8.30 a.m., and soon afterwards went + ashore to bathe. We found, however, that the high rocks + which surround the snug little bathing cove made the water + as cold as ice.</p> + + <p>Nothing more having been heard of our poor little kitten, we + can only conclude that she has gone overboard. Just as we were + leaving the railway-station, however, we saw a small white + kitten with a blue ribbon round its neck; and all the children + at once exclaimed, 'There's our Lily!' We made inquiries, and + found that it belonged to the young woman at the refreshment + room, who, after some demur, allowed us to take it away with + us, in compliance with Muriel's anxious wish, expressed on her + face.</p> + + <p>About ten o'clock we got under way, but lay-to for + breakfast. We then had a regular beat of it down + Channel—everybody being ill. We formed a + melancholy-looking little row down the lee side of the ship, + though I must say that we were quite as cheery as might have + been expected under the circumstances. It was bright and sunny + overhead, which made things more bearable.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, July 9th</i>.—A calm at 2 a.m. Orders were + given to get up steam; but the new coals from Chatham were slow + to light, though good to keep up steam when once fairly + kindled. For four long hours, therefore, we lolloped about in + the trough of a heavy sea, the sails flapping as the vessel + rolled. By the time the steam was up so was the breeze—a + contrary one, of course. We accordingly steamed and sailed all + day, taking more water on board, though not really in any great + quantity, than I had ever seen the good ship do before. She + carries a larger supply of coal and other stores than usual, + and no doubt the square yards on the foremast make her pitch + more heavily. We were all very sorry for ourselves, and + 'church,' postponed from eleven until four o'clock, brought + together but a small congregation.</p> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 4<a name="Page_4" + id="Page_4"></a></span> On the 8th we were fairly away from + Old England, and on the next day off Ushant, which we + rounded at about 4.30 p.m., at the distance of a mile and a + half; the sea was tremendous, the waves breaking in columns + of spray against the sharp needle-like rocks that form the + point of the island. The only excitement during the day was + afforded by the visit of a pilot-boat (without any fish on + board), whose owner was very anxious to take us into Brest, + 'safe from the coming storm,' which he predicted. In + addition to our other discomforts, it now rained hard; and + by half-past six I think nearly all our party had made up + their minds that bed would be the most comfortable + place.</p> + + <p>Two days later we sailed into lovely, bright, warm, sunny + weather, with a strong north-easterly breeze, a following sea, + and an occasional long roll from the westward. But as the sun + rose, the wind increased, and we got rather knocked about by + the sea. A good deal of water came on board, and it was + impossible to sit anywhere in comfort, unless lashed or firmly + wedged in. We were, however, going ten knots through the water, + on our course, under our new square head canvas; and this fact + made up for a good deal of discomfort.</p> + + <p>The thirty extra tons of spare sails, spars, and provisions, + the fifteen tons of water, and the eighty-four tons of coal, + made a great difference in our buoyancy, and the sea came + popping in and out at the most unexpected places; much to the + delight of the children, who, with bare feet and legs, and + armed with mops and sponges, waged mimic war against the + intruder and each other, singing and dancing to their hearts' + content. This amusement was occasionally interrupted by a + heavier roll than usual, sending them all into the lee + scuppers, sousing them from head to foot, and necessitating a + thorough change of clothing, despite their urgent protest that + sea-water never hurt anybody.</p> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 5<a name="Page_5" + id="Page_5"></a></span> After our five o'clock dinner, + however, we very nearly met with a most serious accident. We + were all sitting or standing about the stern of the vessel, + admiring the magnificent dark blue billows following us, + with their curling white crests, mountains high. Each wave, + as it approached, appeared as if it must overwhelm us, + instead of which, it rushed grandly by, rolling and shaking + us from stem to stern, and sending fountains of spray on + board.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_020" + id="Illus_020"></a> <img src="images/t_020.jpg" + width="240" + height="196" + alt="Illustration: Nearly Overboard" + title="Illustration: Nearly Overboard" /><br /> + <b>Nearly Overboard</b><br /> + <a href="images/020.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>Tom was looking at the stern compass, Allnutt being close to + him. Mr. Bingham and Mr. Freer were smoking, half-way between + the quarter-deck and the after-companion, where Captain Brown, + Dr. Potter, Muriel, and I, were standing. Captain Lecky, seated + on a large coil of rope, placed on the box of the rudder, was + spinning Mabelle a yarn. A new hand was steering, and just at + the moment when an unusually big wave overtook us, he + unfortunately allowed the vessel to broach-to a little. In a + second the sea came pouring over <span class="pagenum">Page + 6<a name="Page_6" + id="Page_6"></a></span>the stern, above Allnutt's head. The + boy was nearly washed overboard, but he managed to catch + hold of the rail, and, with great presence of mind, stuck + his knees into the bulwarks. Kindred, our boatswain, seeing + his danger, rushed forward to save him, but was knocked down + by the return wave, from which he emerged gasping. The coil + of rope, on which Captain Lecky and Mabelle were seated, was + completely floated by the sea. Providentially, however, he + had taken a double turn round his wrist with a reefing + point, and, throwing his other arm round Mabelle, held on + like grim death; otherwise nothing could have saved them. + She was perfectly self-possessed, and only said quietly, + 'Hold on, Captain Lecky, hold on!' to which he replied, 'All + right.' I asked her afterwards if she thought she was going + overboard, and she answered, 'I did not <i>think</i> at all, + mamma, but felt sure we were gone.' Captain Lecky, being + accustomed to very large ships, had not in the least + realised how near we were to the water in our little vessel, + and was proportionately taken by surprise. All the rest of + the party were drenched, with the exception of Muriel, whom + Captain Brown held high above the water in his arms, and who + lost no time in remarking, in the midst of the general + confusion, 'I'm not at all wet, I'm not.' Happily, the + children don't know what fear is. The maids, however, were + very frightened, as some of the sea had got down into the + nursery, and the skylights had to be screwed down. Our + studding-sail boom, too, broke with a loud crack when the + ship broached-to, and the jaws of the fore-boom gave + way.</p> + + <p>Soon after this adventure we all went to bed, full of + thankfulness that it had ended as well as it did; but, alas, + not, so far as I was concerned, to rest in peace. In about two + hours I was awakened by a tremendous weight of water suddenly + descending upon me and flooding the bed. I immediately sprang + out, only to find myself in another pool on the floor. It was + pitch dark, and I could <span class="pagenum">Page + 7<a name="Page_7" + id="Page_7"></a></span>not think what had happened; so I + rushed on deck, and found that, the weather having moderated + a little, some kind sailor, knowing my love of fresh air, + had opened the skylight rather too soon; and one of the + angry waves had popped on board, deluging the cabin.</p> + + <p>I got a light, and proceeded to mop up, as best I could, and + then endeavoured to find a dry place to sleep in. This, + however, was no easy task, for my own bed was drenched, and + every other berth occupied. The deck, too, was ankle-deep in + water, as I found when I tried to get across to the deck-house + sofa. At last I lay down on the floor, wrapped up in my ulster, + and wedged between the foot stanchion of our swing bed and the + wardrobe athwart-ship; so that as the yacht rolled heavily, my + feet were often higher than my head. Consequently, what sleep I + snatched turned into nightmare, of which the fixed idea was a + broken head from the three hundredweight of lead at the bottom + of our bed, swinging wildly from side to side and up and down, + as the vessel rolled and pitched, suggesting all manner of + accidents. When morning came at last, the weather cleared a + good deal, though the breeze continued. All hands were soon + busily employed in repairing damages; and very picturesque the + deck and rigging of the 'Sunbeam' looked, with the various + groups of men, occupied upon the ropes, spars, and sails. + Towards evening the wind fell light, and we had to get up + steam. The night was the first really warm one we had enjoyed, + and the stars shone out brightly. The sea, which had been of a + lovely blue colour during the day, showed a slight + phosphorescence after dark.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, July 13th</i>.—When I went on deck, at + half-past six, I found a grey, steamy, calm morning, promising + a very hot day, without wind.</p> + + <p>About 10.30 a.m., the cry of 'Sail on the port beam!' caused + general excitement, and in a few minutes every telescope and + glass in the ship had been brought to bear + <span class="pagenum">Page 8<a name="Page_8" + id="Page_8"></a></span> upon the object which attracted our + attention, and which was soon pronounced to be a wreck. + Orders were given to starboard the helm, and to steer direct + for the vessel; and many were the conjectures hazarded, and + the questions asked of the fortunate holders of glasses. + 'What is she?' 'Is there any one on board?' 'Where does she + come from?' 'Can you read her name?' 'Does she look as if + she had been long abandoned?' Soon we were near enough to + send a boat's crew on board, whilst we watched their + movements anxiously from the bridge. We could now read her + name—the 'Carolina'—surmounted by a gorgeous + yellow decoration on her stern. She was of between two and + three hundred tons burden, and was painted a light blue, + with a red streak. Beneath her white bowsprit the gaudy + image of a woman served as a figure-head. The two masts had + been snapped short off about three feet from the deck, and + the bulwarks were gone, only the covering board and + stanchions remaining, so that each wave washed over and + through her. The roof and supports of the deck-house and the + companions were still left standing, but the sides had + disappeared, and the ship's deck was burst up in such a + manner as to remind one of a quail's back.</p> + + <p>We saw the men on board poking about, apparently very + pleased with what they had found; and soon our boat returned to + the yacht for some breakers<a name="FNanchor_1_1" + id="FNanchor_1_1">,</a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" + class="fnanchor">[1]</a> as the 'Carolina' had been laden + with port wine and cork, and the men wished to bring some of + the former on board. I changed my dress, and, putting on my + sea boots, started for the wreck.</p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_1_1" + id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label"> + [1]</span></a> Small casks, used for carrying water in + boats, frequently spelt <i>barricos</i>, evidently from the + time of the old Spanish navigators.</p> + </div> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_024" + id="Illus_024"></a> <img src="images/t_024.jpg" + width="240" + height="165" + alt="Illustration: The Derelict 'Carolina' laden with Port Wine" + title="Illustration: The Derelict 'Carolina' laden with Port Wine" /> + <br /> + <b>The Derelict 'Carolina' laden with Port Wine</b><br /> + <a href="images/024.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>We found the men rather excited over their discovery. The + wine must have been <i>very</i> new and <i>very</i> strong, for + the smell from it, as it slopped about all over the deck, was + almost enough to intoxicate anybody. One pipe had already been + emptied into the breakers and barrels, and + <span class="pagenum">Page 9<a name="Page_9" + id="Page_9"></a></span> great efforts were made to get some + of the casks out whole; but this was found to be impossible, + without devoting more time to the operation than we chose to + spare. The men managed to remove three half-empty casks with + their heads stove in, which they threw overboard, but the + full ones would have required special appliances to raise + them through the hatches. It proved exceedingly difficult to + get at the wine, which was stowed underneath the cork, and + there was also a quantity of cabin bulkheads and fittings + floating about, under the influence of the long swell of the + Atlantic. It was a curious sight, standing on the roof of + the deck-house, to look into the hold, full of floating + bales of cork, barrels, and pieces of wood, and to watch the + sea surging up in every direction, through and over the + deck, which was level with the water's edge. I saw an + excellent modern iron cooking-stove washing about from side + to side; but almost every other moveable article, including + spars and ropes, had apparently been removed by previous + boarders. <span class="pagenum">Page 10<a name="Page_10" + id="Page_10"></a></span></p> + + <p>It would have delayed us too long to tow the vessel into the + nearest port, 375 miles distant, or we might have claimed the + salvage money, estimated by the experts at 1,500<i>l</i>. She + was too low in the water for it to be possible for us, with our + limited appliances, to blow her up; so we were obliged to leave + her floating about as a derelict, a fertile source of danger to + all ships crossing her track. With her buoyant cargo, and with + the trade winds slowly wafting her to smoother seas, it may + probably be some years before she breaks up. I only hope that + no good ship may run full speed on to her, some dark night, for + the 'Carolina' would prove almost as formidable an obstacle as + a sunken rock.</p> + + <p>Tom was now signalling for us to go on board again, and for + a few minutes I was rather afraid we should have had a little + trouble in getting the men off, as their excitement had not + decreased; but after a trifling delay and some rather rough + play amongst themselves, they became steady again, and we + returned to the yacht with our various prizes.</p> + + <p>A 'Mother Carey's chicken' hovered round the wreck while we + were on board, and followed us to the 'Sunbeam;' and although a + flat calm and a heavy swell prevailed at the time, we all + looked upon our visitor as the harbinger of a breeze. In this + instance, at least, the well-known sailor's superstition was + justified; for, before the evening, the wind sprang up, and + 'fires out and sails up' was the order of the day. We were soon + bowling merrily along at the rate of seven knots an hour, while + a clear starlight night and a heavy dew gave promise of a fine + morrow.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, July 14th</i>.—We still have a light wind, + right aft, accompanied by a heavy roll from the westward, which + makes it impossible to sit anywhere with comfort, and difficult + even to read. By 6 a.m. the sun had become very powerful, + though its heat was tempered by the breeze, + <span class="pagenum">Page 11<a name="Page_11" + id="Page_11"></a></span>which gradually increased throughout + the day, until, having set all our fore-and-aft canvas, as + well as our square sails, we glided steadily along, in + delightful contrast to the uneasy motion of the morning, and + of the past few days. Under the awning—with the most + heavenly blue sky above, and the still darker clear blue sea + beneath, stretching away in gentle ripples as far as the eye + could reach—it was simply perfect.</p> + + <p>Our little party get on extremely well together, though a + week ago they were strangers to each other. We are all so busy + that we do not see much of one another except at meals, and + then we have plenty to talk about. Captain Lecky imparts to us + some of his valuable information about scientific navigation + and the law of storms, and he and Tom and Captain Brown work + hard at these subjects. Mr. Freer follows in the same path; Mr. + Bingham draws and reads; Dr. Potter helps me to teach the + children, who, I am happy to say, are as well as possible. I + read and write a great deal, and learn Spanish, so that the + days are all too short for what we have to do. The servants are + settling down well into their places, and the commissariat + department does great credit to the cooks and stewards. The + maids get on satisfactorily, but are a little nervous on rough + nights. We hope not to have many more just at present, for we + are now approaching calmer latitudes.</p> + + <p>In the course of the day, whilst Tom and I were sitting in + the stern, the man at the wheel suddenly exclaimed, 'There's + land on the port bow.' We knew, from the distance we had run, + that this could not be the case, and after looking at it + through the glasses, Tom pronounced the supposed land to be a + thick wall of fog, advancing towards us <i>against</i> the + wind. Captain Brown and Captain Lecky came from below, and + hastened to get in the studding-sails, in anticipation of the + coming squall. In a few minutes we had lost our fair breeze and + brilliant sunshine, all our sails <span class="pagenum">Page + 12<a name="Page_12" + id="Page_12"></a></span>were taken flat aback, and we found + ourselves enveloped in a dense fog, which made it impossible + for us to see the length of the vessel. It was an + extraordinary phenomenon. Captain Lecky, who, in the course + of his many voyages, has passed within a few miles of this + exact spot more than a hundred and fifty times, had never + seen anything in the least like it. As night came on the fog + increased, and the boats were prepared ready for lowering. + Two men went to the wheel, and two to the bows to look out, + while an officer was stationed on the bridge with + steam-whistle and bell ready for an emergency; so that, in + case we ran into anything, or anything ran into us, we + should at least have the satisfaction of knowing that, so + far as we were concerned, it had all been done strictly + according to Act of Parliament.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, July 15th</i>.—Between midnight and 4 + a.m. the fog disappeared, as suddenly as it had come on. We + must have passed through a wide belt of it. At 5.30 a.m., when + Tom called me to see a steamer go by, it was quite clear. The + vessel was the 'Roman,' and she passed so close to us that we + made our number, and exchanged salutations with the officers on + the bridge.</p> + + <p>Towards the afternoon a nice breeze sprang up, and we were + able to bank fires and sail.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 13<a name="Page_13" + id="Page_13"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_II" + id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">MADEIRA, TENERIFFE, AND CAPE DE VERDE + ISLANDS.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>Full many a green isle needs must + be</i><br /></span> <span><i>In this wide sea of + misery</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Or the mariner worn + and wan</i><br /></span> <span><i>Never thus could + voyage on</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_028" + id="Illus_028"></a> <img src="images/t_028.jpg" + width="240" + height="158" + alt="Illustration: Our First View of Madeira" + title="Illustration: Our First View of Madeira" /><br /> + <b>Our First View of Madeira</b><br /> + <a href="images/028.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Sunday, July 16th</i>.—Porto Santo being visible on + the port bow, a quarter of a mile ahead, by 3.55 a.m. this + morning, our three navigators congratulated themselves and each + other on the good land-fall they had made.</p> + + <p>It looks a curious little island, and is situated about + thirty-five miles north-east of Madeira, with a high peak in + the centre, of which we could only see the extreme point, + appearing above the clouds.</p> + + <p>It is interesting to know that it was from his observation + of the drift-wood and débris washed on to the eastern + shore that Columbus, who had married the daughter of the + Governor of Porto Santo, derived his first impressions of the + existence of the New World. Here it was that he first realised + there might possibly be a large and unknown country to the + westward; here it was that he first conceived + <span class="pagenum">Page 14<a name="Page_14" + id="Page_14"></a></span> the project of exploring the + hitherto unknown ocean and of discovering what new countries + might bound its western shores.</p> + + <p>An hour later we saw Fora and its light, at the extreme east + of Madeira, and could soon distinguish the mountains in the + centre of the latter island. As we rapidly approached the land, + the beauty of the scenery became more fully apparent. A mass of + dark purple volcanic rocks, clothed on the top with the richest + vegetation, with patches of all sorts of colour on their sides, + rises boldly from the sea. There are several small detached + rocks, and one curious pointed little island, with an arch + right through the middle of it, rather like the Percé + Rock on the coast of Nova Scotia. We steamed slowly along the + east coast, passing many pretty hamlets, nestled in bays or + perched on the side of the hills, and observing how every + possible nook and corner seemed to be terraced and cultivated. + Sugar-canes, Indian corn, vines, and many varieties of tropical + and semi-tropical plants, grow luxuriantly in this lovely + climate. Nearly all the cottages in the island are inhabited by + a simple people, many of whom have never left their native + villages, even to look at the magnificent view from the top of + the surrounding mountains, or to gaze on the sea, by which they + are encompassed.</p> + + <p>We dropped our anchor in the bay of Funchal at about twelve + o'clock, and before breakfast was over found ourselves + surrounded by a perfect flotilla of boats, though none of them + dared approach very near until the health-officer had come + alongside and pronounced us free from infection. At this moment + all are complaining much of the heat, which since yesterday has + been very great, and is caused by the wind called 'Este,' + blowing direct from the African deserts. It was 79° in the + coolest place on board, and 84° on shore in the shade, in + the middle of the day.</p> + + <p>The African mail steamer, 'Ethiopia,' last from Bonny, West + Coast of Africa, whence she arrived the day before + <span class="pagenum">Page 15<a name="Page_15" + id="Page_15"></a></span> yesterday, was lying in the bay, + and the children went on board with some of our party to see + her cargo of monkeys, parrots, and pineapples. The result + was an importation of five parrots on board the 'Sunbeam;' + but the monkeys were too big for us. Captain Dane, who paid + us a return visit, said that the temperature here appeared + quite cool to him, as for the last few weeks his thermometer + had varied from 82° to 96° in the shade.</p> + + <p>We had service at 4 p.m., and at 5 p.m. went ashore in a + native boat, furnished with bilge pieces, to keep her straight + when beached, and to avoid the surf, for it was too rough for + our own boats. At the water's edge a curious sort of double + sleigh, drawn by two oxen, was waiting. Into this we stepped, + setting off with considerable rapidity up the steep shingly + beach, under a beautiful row of trees, to the 'Praça,' + where the greater portion of the population were walking up and + down, or sitting under the shade of the magnolias. These plants + here attain the size of forest-trees, and their large white + wax-like flowers shed a most delightful fragrance on the + evening air. There were graceful pepper vines too, and a great + variety of trees only known to us in England in the form of + small shrubs. This being a festival day, the streets were + crowded with people from town and country, in their holiday + attire. The door-posts and balconies of the houses were + wreathed with flowers, the designs in many cases being very + pretty. One arcade in particular was quite lovely, with arches + made of double red geranium, mixed with the feathery-looking + pepper leaves, while the uprights were covered with amaryllis + and white arum lilies. The streets were strewn with roses and + branches of myrtle, which, bruised by the feet of the + passers-by and the runners of the bullock sleigh, emitted a + delicious aromatic odour.</p> + + <p>The trellises in the gardens seem overgrown with + stephanotis, mauve and purple passion-flowers, and all kinds of + rare creepers, the purple and white hibiscus shoots up + <span class="pagenum">Page 16<a name="Page_16" + id="Page_16"></a></span>some fourteen to sixteen feet in + height; bananas, full of fruit and flower, strelitzias, + heliotrope, geraniums, and pelargoniums, bloom all around in + large shrubs, mixed with palms and mimosas of every variety; + and the whole formed such an enchanting picture that we were + loth to tear ourselves away.</p> + + <p>A ride of about twenty minutes in the bullock sleigh, up a + steep hill, by the side of a rocky torrent, whose banks were + overgrown with caladiums and vines, brought us to our + destination, Til, whence we had a splendid view of the town and + bay stretching beneath us. During the ascent we passed several + cottages, whose inhabitants stood airing themselves on the + threshold after the great heat of the day, and through the open + doorways we occasionally got a peep into the gardens beyond, + full of bright flowers and luxuriant with vines, fig-trees, and + bananas. As we sat in the terrace garden at Til we enjoyed the + sweet scent of the flowers we could no longer see, and listened + to the cool splash of the water in the fountain below; whilst + Allnutt, with unceasing energy, searched amongst the bushes for + moths, of which he found a large number.</p> + + <p>We jogged down the hill a great deal faster than we had come + up, stopping only for a short time in the now more than ever + crowded 'Praça,' to listen to one or two airs played by + the Portuguese band, before we got back to the yacht at about + half-past ten.</p> + + <p>Next morning we were off to the fish-market by seven + o'clock, but it was not a good time for our visit, as there had + been no moon on the previous night; and, though there were fish + of various kinds, saw nothing specially worthy of notice. The + picturesque costumes of the people were, however, interesting. + We afterwards went to the fruit-market, though it was not + specially worth seeing, for most of the fruit and vegetables + are brought in boats from villages on the sea-shore; and, as it + is necessary to wait until the sea-breeze springs up, they do + not arrive until <span class="pagenum">Page 17<a name="Page_17" + id="Page_17"></a></span>midday. After our walk the children + and I went down to the beach and bathed, taking care not to + go too far out on account of the sharks, of which we had + been warned. We undressed and dressed in tents, not unlike + clothes-horses, with a bit of matting thrown over them, in + which the heat was intense. The beach is very steep; and as + one gets out of one's depth immediately, indifferent + swimmers put on a couple of bladders—which stick out + behind their backs and produce a strange effect—or + else take a bathing-man into the water with them. I + preferred the latter course; and we all had a pleasant + bathe.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_032" + id="Illus_032"></a> <img src="images/t_032.jpg" + width="231" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Fish Carrier" + title="Illustration: Fish Carrier" /><br /> + <b>Fish Carrier</b><br /> + <a href="images/032.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>The natives seem almost amphibious in their habits, and the + yacht is surrounded all day by boats full of small boys, who + will dive to any depth for sixpence, a dozen of them + spluttering and fighting for the coin in the water at the same + time. They will go down on one side of the yacht too, and bob + up on the other, almost before you have time to run across the + deck to witness their reappearance. <span class="pagenum">Page + 18<a name="Page_18" + id="Page_18"></a></span></p> + + <p>The Loo Rock, with its old fortress, close to our anchorage, + forms a picturesque object; and the scene from the yacht, + enlivened by the presence of numerous market-boats, laden with + fruit and vegetables, is very pretty. We lie about 150 yards + from the shore, just under Mr. Danero's quinta. The cliff just + here is overhung with bougainvillæas, geraniums, + fuchsias, aloes, prickly pears, and other flowers, which grow + luxuriantly quite down to the water's edge, wherever they can + contrive to find a root-hold.</p> + + <p>After five o'clock tea we rode up the Mount and through the + woods on horseback, along a road gay with masses of wild + geranium, hydrangea, amaryllis, and fuchsia. We dismounted at a + lovely place, which contains a large number of rare trees and + plants, brought from all parts of the world. Here were enormous + camellias, as well as purple, red, and white azaleas, Guernsey + lilies, all growing in the greatest profusion.</p> + + <p>Our descent of the Mount, by means of a form of conveyance + commonly used on the island, was very amusing. At the summit we + found basket-work sleighs, each constructed to hold two people, + and attended by a couple of men, lashed together. Into these we + stepped, and were immediately pushed down the hill at a + tremendous pace. The gliding motion is delightful, and was + altogether a novelty to us. The men manage the sleighs with + great skill, steering them in the most wonderful manner round + the sharp angles in the zigzag road, and making use of their + bare feet as brakes when necessary. The turns were occasionally + so abrupt, that it seemed almost impossible that we could avoid + being upset; but we reached the bottom quite safely. The + children were especially delighted with the trip, and indeed we + all enjoyed it immensely. The only danger is the risk of fire + from the friction of the steel runners against the gravel + road.</p> + + <p>After paying a visit to Mr. and Mrs. Blandy, whose house is + beautifully situated, we dined at the hotel, and + <span class="pagenum">Page 19<a name="Page_19" + id="Page_19"></a></span>afterwards sat in the lovely + semi-tropical garden until it was time to go on board to + bed.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, July 18th</i>.—We were called at 4.30 + a.m., and went ashore soon after six to meet some friends, with + whom we had arranged to ride up to the Gran Corral, and to + breakfast there, 5,000 feet above the level of the sea.</p> + + <p>It soon became evident that the time we had selected for + landing was the fashionable bathing hour. In fact, it required + some skill on our part to keep the boat clear of the crowds of + people of both sexes and all ages, who were taking their + morning dip. It was most absurd to see entire families, from + the bald-headed and spectacled grandfather to the baby who + could scarcely walk, all disporting themselves in the water + together, many of them supported by the very inelegant-looking + bladders I have mentioned. There was a little delay in mounting + our horses, under the shade of the fig-trees; but when we were + once off, a party of eleven, the cavalcade became quite + formidable. As we clattered up the paved streets, between + vineyard and garden walls, 'curiosity opened her lattice,' on + more than one occasion, to ascertain the cause of the unwonted + commotion. The views on our way, as we sometimes climbed a + steep ascent or descended a deep ravine, were very varied, but + always beautiful. About half-way up we stopped to rest under a + delightful trellis of vines, by the side of a rushing mountain + stream, bordered with ferns; then, leaving the vineyards and + gardens behind us, we passed through forests of shady Spanish + chestnut trees, beneath which stretched the luxurious + greensward.</p> + + <p>At ten o'clock we quitted this grateful shade, and arrived + at the neck of the pass, facing the Gran Corral, where we had + to make our choice of ascending a conical hill, on our left, or + the Torrinhas Peak, on our right. The latter was chosen, as + promising the better view, although it + <span class="pagenum">Page 20<a name="Page_20" + id="Page_20"></a></span>was rather farther off, so we were + accordingly seized upon by some of the crowd of peasants who + surrounded us, and who at once proceeded to push and pull us + up a steep slippery grass slope, interspersed with large + boulders. The view from the top, looking down a sheer + precipice of some 1,500 feet in depth into the valley below, + was lovely. Quite at the bottom, amid the numerous ravines + and small spurs of rocks by which the valley is intersected, + we could distinguish some small patches of cultivated + ground. Above our heads towered the jagged crests of the + highest peaks, Pico Ruivo and others, which we had already + seen from the yacht, when we first sighted the island.</p> + + <p>A pleasant walk over some grassy slopes, and two more hard + scrambles, took us to the summit of the Torrinhas Peak; but the + charming and extensive view towards Camara de Lobos, and the + bay and town of Funchal, was an ample reward for all our + trouble. It did not take us long to get back to the welcome + shade of the chestnut trees, for we were all ravenously hungry, + it being now eleven o'clock. But, alas! breakfast had not + arrived: so we had no resource but to mount our horses again + and ride down to meet it. Mr. Miles, of the hotel, had not kept + his word; he had promised that our provisions should be sent up + to us by nine o'clock, and it was midday before we met the men + carrying the hampers on their heads. There was now nothing for + it but to organise a picnic on the terrace of Mr. Veitch's + deserted villa, beneath the shade of camellia, fuchsia, myrtle, + magnolia, and pepper-trees, from whence we could also enjoy the + fine view of the fertile valley beneath us and the blue sea + sparkling beyond.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, July 19th</i>.—We were so tired after + our exertions of yesterday, that it was nine o'clock before we + all mustered for our morning swim, which I think we enjoyed the + more from the fact of our having previously been prevented by + the sharks, or rather by the rumour of + sharks.<span class="pagenum">Page 21<a name="Page_21" + id="Page_21"></a></span></p> + + <p>We were engaged to lunch at Mr. and Mrs. Blandy's, but I was + so weary that I did not go ashore until about six o'clock in + the evening, and then I went first to the English cemetery, + which is very prettily laid out and well kept. The various + paths are shaded by pepper-trees, entwined with + bougainvillæa, while in many places the railings are + completely covered by long trailing masses of stephanotis in + full bloom. Some of the inscriptions on the tombs are extremely + touching, and it is sad to see, as is almost always the case in + places much resorted to by invalids, how large a proportion of + those who lie buried here have been cut off in the very flower + of their youth. Indeed, the residents at Madeira complain that + it is a melancholy drawback to the charms of this beautiful + island, that the friendship frequently formed between them and + people who come hither in search of health, is in so many cases + brought to an early and sad termination. Having seen and + admired Mrs. Foljambe's charming garden by daylight, we + returned on board to receive some friends. Unfortunately they + were not very good sailors, and, out of our party of twenty, + one lady had to go ashore at once, and another before dinner + was over.</p> + + <p>They all admired the yacht very much, particularly the + various cozy corners in the deck-house. It was a lovely night; + and after the departure of our guests, at about ten o'clock, we + steamed out of the bay, where we found a nice light breeze, + which enabled us to sail.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_037" + id="Illus_037"></a> <img src="images/t_037.jpg" + width="228" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: A Cozy Corner" + title="Illustration: A Cozy Corner" /><br /> + <b>A Cozy Corner</b><br /> + <a href="images/037.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Thursday, July 20th</i>.—All to-day has been taken + up in arranging our photographs, journals, &c. &c., and + in preparing for our visit to Teneriffe. About twelve o'clock + the wind fell light and we tried fishing, but without success, + though several bonitos or flying-fish were seen. It was very + hot, and it seemed quite a relief when, at eight o'clock in the + evening, we began steaming, thus creating a breeze for + ourselves.<span class="pagenum">Page 22<a name="Page_22" + id="Page_22"></a></span></p> + + <p><i>Friday, July 21st</i>.—We all rose early, and were + full of excitement to catch the first glimpse of the famous + Peak of Teneriffe. There was a nice breeze from the north-east, + the true trade wind, we hope, which ought to carry us down + nearly to the Line. The morning being rather hazy, it was quite + ten o'clock before we saw the Peak, towering above the clouds, + right ahead, about fifty-nine miles off. As we approached, it + appeared less perpendicular than we had expected, or than it is + generally represented in pictures. The other mountains too, in + the centre of the island, from the midst of which it rises, are + so very lofty that, in spite of its conical sugar-loaf top, it + is difficult at first to realise that the Peak is 12,180 feet + high. <span class="pagenum">Page 23<a name="Page_23" + id="Page_23"></a></span></p> + + <p>We dropped anchor under its shadow in the harbour of Orotava + in preference to the capital, Santa Cruz, both on account of + its being a healthier place, and also in order to be nearer to + the Peak, which we wished to ascend.</p> + + <p>The heat having made the rest of our party rather lazy, + Captain Lecky and I volunteered to go on shore to see the + Vice-Consul, Mr. Goodall, and try to make arrangements for our + expedition. It was only 2 p.m., and very hot work, walking + through the deserted streets, but luckily we had not far to go, + and the house was nice and cool when we got there. Mr. Goodall + sent off at once for a carriage, despatching a messenger also + to the mountains for horses and guides, which there was some + difficulty in obtaining at such short notice.</p> + + <p>Having organised the expedition we re-embarked to dine on + board the yacht, and I went to bed at seven, to be called + again, however, at half-past ten o'clock. After a light supper, + we landed and went to the Vice-Consul's arriving there exactly + at midnight. But no horses were forthcoming, so we lay down on + our rugs in the patio, and endeavoured to sleep, as we knew we + should require all our strength for the expedition before + us.</p> + + <p>There were sundry false alarms of a start, as the horses + arrived by ones and twos from the neighbouring villages, + accompanied by their respective owners. By two o'clock all our + steeds, twelve in number, had assembled, and in another quarter + of an hour we were leaving the town by a steep stony path, + bordered by low walls. There was no moon, and for the first two + hours it was very dark. At the end of that time we could see + the first glimmer of dawn, and were shortly afterwards able to + distinguish each other and to observe the beautiful view which + lay below us as we wended our way up and up between small + patches of cultivation. Soon we climbed above the clouds, which + presented a most curious appearance as we looked down upon + them. The strata through which we had passed was so + <span class="pagenum">Page 24<a name="Page_24" + id="Page_24"></a></span>dense and so white, that it looked + exactly like an enormous glacier, covered with fresh fallen + snow, extending for miles and miles; while the projecting + tops of the other Canary Islands appeared only like great + solitary rocks.</p> + + <p>The sun had already become very oppressive, and at half-past + seven we stopped to breakfast and to water the horses. + Half-past eight found us in the saddle again, and we commenced + to traverse a dreary plain of yellowish white pumice-stone, + interspersed with huge blocks of obsidian, thrown from the + mouth of the volcano. At first the monotony of the scene was + relieved by large bushes of yellow broom in full flower, and + still larger bushes of the beautiful <i>Retama blanca</i>, + quite covered with lovely white bloom, scenting the air with + its delicious fragrance, and resembling huge tufts of feathers, + eight or nine feet high. As we proceeded, however, we left all + traces of vegetation behind us. It was like the Great Sahara. + On every side a vast expanse of yellow pumice-stone sand spread + around us, an occasional block of rock sticking up here and + there, and looking as if it had indeed been fused in a mighty + furnace. By half-past ten we had reached the 'Estancia de los + Ingleses,' 9,639 feet above the level of the sea, where the + baggage and some of the horses had to be left behind, the + saddles being transferred to mules for the very steep climb + before us. After a drink of water all round, we started again, + and commenced the ascent of the almost perpendicular stream of + lava and stone, which forms the only practicable route to the + top. Our poor beasts were only able to go a few paces at a time + without stopping to regain their breath. The loose ashes and + lava fortunately gave them a good foothold, or it would have + been quite impossible for them to get along at all. One was + only encouraged to proceed by the sight of one's friends above, + looking like flies clinging to the face of a wall. The road, if + such it can be called, ran in zigzags, each of which was about + the length of two horses, so that we were in turns + <span class="pagenum">Page 25<a name="Page_25" + id="Page_25"></a></span>one above another. There were a few + slips and slides and tumbles, but no important casualties; + and in about an hour and a half we had reached the 'Alta + Vista,' a tiny plateau, where the horses were to be + left.</p> + + <p>The expedition so far had been such a fatiguing one, and the + heat was so great, that the children and I decided to remain + here, and to let the gentlemen proceed alone to the summit of + the Peak. We tried to find some shade, but the sun was so + immediately above us that this was almost an impossibility. + However, we managed to squeeze ourselves under some slightly + overhanging rocks, and I took some photographs while the + children slept. The guides soon returned with water-barrels + full of ice, procured from a cavern above, where there is a + stream of water constantly running; and nothing could have been + more grateful and refreshing.</p> + + <p>It was more than three hours before Tom and Captain Lecky + reappeared, to be soon followed by the rest of the party. + Whilst they rested and refreshed themselves with ice, they + described the ascent as fatiguing in the extreme, in fact, + almost an impossibility for a lady. First they had scrambled + over huge blocks of rough lava to the tiny plain of the + Rambleta, 11,466 feet above the level of the sea, after which + they had to climb up the cone itself, 530 feet in height, and + sloping at an angle of 44 degrees. It is composed of ashes and + calcined chalk, into which their feet sank, while, for every + two steps they made forwards and upwards, they slipped one + backwards. But those who reached the top were rewarded for + their exertions by a glorious view, and by the wonderful + appearance of the summit of the Peak. The ground beneath their + feet was hot, while sulphurous vapours and smoke issued from + various small fissures around them, though there has been no + actual eruption from this crater of the volcano since 1704. + They brought down with them a beautiful piece of calcined + chalk, covered with crystals of sulphur and arsenic, and + <span class="pagenum">Page 26<a name="Page_26" + id="Page_26"></a></span>some other specimens. Parched and + dry as the ground looked where I was resting, a few grains + of barley, dropped by mules on the occasion of a previous + visit, had taken root and had grown up into ear; and there + were also a few roots of a sort of dog-violet, showing its + delicate lavender-coloured flowers 11,000 feet above the + sea, and far beyond the level of any other vegetation.</p> + + <p>It was impossible to ride down to the spot where we had left + the baggage animals, and the descent was consequently very + fatiguing, and even painful. At every step our feet sank into a + mass of loose scoriæ and ashes; and so we went slipping, + sliding, and stumbling along, sometimes running against a rock, + and sometimes nearly pitching forward on our faces. All this + too beneath a blazing sun, with the thermometer at 78°, and + not a vestige of shade. At last Tom and I reached the bottom, + where, after partaking of luncheon and draughts of quinine, we + lay down under the shadow of a great rock to recruit our weary + frames.</p> + + <p>Refreshed by our meal, we started at six o'clock on our + return journey, and went down a good deal faster than we came + up. Before the end of the pumice-stone or Retama plains had + been reached, it was nearly dark. Sundry small accidents + occurring to stirrup-leathers, bridles, and girths—for + the saddlery was not of the best description—delayed us + slightly, and as Tom, Dr. Potter, Allnutt, and the guide had + got on ahead, we soon lost sight of them. After an interval of + uncertainty, the other guides confessed that they did not know + the way back in the dark. This was not pleasant, for the roads + were terrible, and during the whole of our journey up, from the + port to the Peak, we had met only four people in all—two + goatherds with their flocks, and two 'neveros,' bringing down + ice to the town. There was therefore not much chance of gaining + information from any one on our way down. We wandered about + among low bushes, down watercourses, and over rocks for a long + time. Horns were blown, and other means of attracting attention + <span class="pagenum">Page 27<a name="Page_27" + id="Page_27"></a></span>were tried; first one and then + another of the party meanwhile coming more or less to grief. + My good little horse fell down three times, though we did + not part company, and once he went up a steep bank by + mistake, instead of going down a very nasty watercourse, + which I do not wonder at his objecting to. I managed to jump + off in time, and so no harm was done; but it was rather + anxious work.</p> + + <p>About ten o'clock we saw a light in the distance, and with + much shouting woke up the inhabitants of the cottage whence it + proceeded, promising to reward them liberally if they would + only show us our way back. Three of them consented to do this, + and provided themselves accordingly with pine-torches, wrapped + round with bracken and leaves. One, a very fine man, dressed in + white, with his arm extended above his head, bearing the light, + led the way; another walked in front of my horse, while the + third brought up the rear. They conducted us down the most + frightfully steep paths until we had descended beneath the + clouds, when the light from our torches threw our shadows in + gigantic form upon the mists above, reminding us of the legend + of the 'Spectre of the Brocken.' At last the torches began to + go out, one by one, and just as the last light was expiring we + arrived at a small village, where we of course found that + everybody was asleep. After some delay, during which Mabelle + and I were so tired that we lay down in the street to rest, + more torches were procured and a fresh guide, who led us into + the comparatively good path towards Puerto Orotava. Finally, + half an hour after midnight, we arrived at the house of the + Vice-Consul, who had provided refreshments for us, and whose + nephew was still very kindly sitting up awaiting our return. + But we were too tired to do anything but go straight on board + the yacht, where, after some supper and champagne, we were + indeed glad to retire to our berths. This was at 3.30 a.m., + exactly twenty-nine hours since we had been called on Friday + night.<span class="pagenum">Page 28<a name="Page_28" + id="Page_28"></a></span></p> + + <p>It is certainly too long an expedition to be performed in + one day. Tents should be taken, and arrangements made for + camping out for one, if not two, nights; but, in the case of + such a large party as ours, this would have been a great + business, as everything must be carried to so great a height, + up such steep places, and over such bad roads. Still, there are + so many objects and places of interest, not only on, but + around, the Peak, that it is a pity to see them only when + hurried and fatigued.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, July 23rd</i>.—Orders had been given not to + call us nor to wash decks, and it was consequently half-past + ten before any one awoke, and midday before the first of our + party put in an appearance on deck.</p> + + <p>Long before this, the 'Sunbeam' had been inundated with + visitors from the shore. We had given a general invitation to + the friends of the Vice-Consul to come and see the yacht; and + they accordingly arrived in due course, accompanied in many + cases by a large circle of acquaintances. Those who came first + were conducted below and all over the vessel, but the number + ultimately became so great that, in self-defence, we were + obliged to limit their wanderings to the deck, opening the + skylights wide, however, to enable them to see as much as + possible of the saloon and cabins.</p> + + <p>From breakfast-time until prayers, at three o'clock, when + the yacht was closed for an hour, there was a constant stream + of visitors from the shore. It was a great nuisance; but still + it seemed unkind to refuse to allow them to see what they had + never seen before, and might possibly never have an opportunity + of seeing again. All steamers and sailing-ships, as a rule, go + to Santa Cruz; and the fame of our vessel having been spread + abroad by our visitors of Friday, many of the poor people had + come from villages far away over the mountains. We could not + help feeling a certain respect for the determined way in which + physical infirmity was mastered by curiosity + <span class="pagenum">Page 29<a name="Page_29" + id="Page_29"></a></span>for, though many experienced very + serious inconvenience from the motion of the vessel, they + still persevered in their examination.</p> + + <p>About five o'clock we went ashore ourselves, and drove up to + Villa Orotava. The wide road is macadamised and marked with + kilometre stones, and is planted on either side with + pepper-trees, plane-trees, and the <i>Eucalyptus globulus</i>, + which has grown 35 metres, or 115 feet, in seven years. The + hedges are formed of blue plumbago, scarlet geranium, yellow + acacia, lavender-coloured heliotrope, white jasmine, and pink + and white roses.</p> + + <p>After driving a few miles, we turned down an old paved road + towards the sea, and, by dint of a considerable amount of + shaking, arrived at the celebrated Botanical Gardens, mentioned + by Humboldt and others. We passed through a small house, with a + fine dragon-tree on either side, and entered the gardens, where + we found a valuable collection of trees and shrubs of almost + every known species. The kind and courteous Curator, Don + Hermann Wildgaret, accompanied us, and explained the + peculiarities of the many interesting plants, from Europe, + Asia, Africa, America, Australia, New Zealand, and the various + islands of the North and South Pacific and Indian Oceans. The + climate of Teneriffe is so equable, that the island forms a + true garden of acclimatisation for the vegetable productions of + the various countries of the world; by the judicious + expenditure of a little more money, this establishment might be + made an important means of introducing to Europe many new and + valuable plants. At present the annual income is 5,000 francs, + the salary of the Curator being 1,000 francs.</p> + + <p>A rough drive over paved roads, commanding extensive views + of sea and rocks, and of some palm-trees on a promontory in the + distance, brought us, at about seven o'clock, to the boat, + which was waiting our return. We arrived in due course on board + the 'Sunbeam,' laden with bouquets of + <span class="pagenum">Page 30<a name="Page_30" + id="Page_30"></a></span>the choicest flowers, and soon after + dinner we all retired to bed, not having yet recovered from + the fatigues of yesterday.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, July 24th</i>.—What one gains in the beauty + and abundance of vegetable life here, one loses in its rapid + and premature decay. Fruit gathered in the morning is scarcely + fit to eat at night, and the flowers brought on board yesterday + evening were dead to-day at 4.30 a.m.; whilst some of the roses + we brought from Cowes lasted until we reached Madeira, though + it must be owned so many fell to pieces that my cabin used to + be daily swept with rose-leaves instead of tea-leaves.</p> + + <p>We went ashore soon after six, and drove straight to the + garden of the Marquis de Sonzal, where there is a beautiful + palm-tree, 101 feet high, the remains of an enormous + dragon-tree, old even in the fifteenth century, besides hedges + of myrtle, jasmine, and clematis, and flowers of every + description in full bloom. The dragon-tree is a species of + dracæna, and looks rather like a gigantic candelabra, + composed of a number of yuccas, perched on the top of a gnarled + and somewhat deformed stem, half palm half cactus. Another + beautiful garden was next visited, belonging to the Marquis de + la Candia, who received us and showed us his coffee and + plantains in full growth, as well as a magnificent Spanish + chestnut-tree, coëval with the dragon-tree. Out of one of + its almost decayed branches a so-called young tree was growing, + but it would have been thought very respectable and middle-aged + in any other locality.</p> + + <p>Every one here, as in Madeira, has been more or less ruined + by the failure of the vines. Most of the large landed + proprietors have left their estates to take care of themselves; + and the peasants, for the last few years, have been emigrating + by hundreds to Caraccas, in Venezuela. Things are, however, + beginning to look up a little now. The cultivation of cochineal + appears to succeed, though the price is low; coffee answers + well; and permission has been obtained from the Spanish + Government to grow tobacco, <span class="pagenum">Page + 31<a name="Page_31" + id="Page_31"></a></span>accompanied by a promise to + purchase, at a certain fixed rate, all that can be produced. + Still, people talk of the Island of Teneriffe as something + very different now from what it was twenty-five or thirty + years ago, both as regards the number of its inhabitants and + the activity of its commerce, and mourn over 'the good old + times;'—a custom I have remarked in many other + places!</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_046" + id="Illus_046"></a> <img src="images/t_046.jpg" + width="153" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: A Palm-tree in a Garden, Orotava, Teneriffe" + title="Illustration: A Palm-tree in a Garden, Orotava, Teneriffe" /> + <br /> + <b>A Palm-tree in a Garden, Orotava, Teneriffe</b><br /> + <a href="images/046.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>The Marquis de la Candia and Don Hermann Wildgaret returned + on board with us to breakfast. The anchor had been weighed, and + the 'Sunbeam' was slowly steaming up and down, waiting for us. + The stream of visitors had been as great and as constant as + ever during our absence, in spite of the heavy roll of the sea, + and the deck seemed <span class="pagenum">Page + 32<a name="Page_32" + id="Page_32"></a></span>quite covered with baskets of + flowers and fruit, kindly sent on board by the people who + had been over the yacht the day before. Amongst the latest + arrivals were some very handsome Spanish ladies, beautifully + dressed in black, with mantillas, each of whom was + accompanied by a young man carrying a basin. It must, I + fear, be confessed that this was rather a trial to the + gravity of all on board. It certainly was an instance of the + pursuit of knowledge, or the gratification of curiosity, + under considerable difficulties.</p> + + <p>Immediately after breakfast, our friends bade us adieu, and + went ashore in the shore-boat, while we steamed along the north + side of the island, past the splendid cliffs of Buenavista, + rising 2,000 feet sheer from the sea, to Cape Teno, the extreme + western point of Teneriffe. In the distance we could see the + Great Canary, Palma, and Hierro, and soon passed close to the + rocky island of Gomera. Here, too, the dark cliffs, of volcanic + form and origin, are magnificent, and as we were almost + becalmed by the high land whilst we sailed along the north + shore of the island, we had ample opportunities of admiring its + rugged beauty. During the night we approached Palma, another + large island of the Canary group, containing one of the most + remarkable <i>calderas</i>, or large basins, formed by volcanic + action in the world.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 33<a name="Page_33" + id="Page_33"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_III" + id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">PALMA TO RIO DE JANEIRO.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>A wet sheet and a flowing + sea</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>A wind that follows + fast</i><br /></span> <span><i>And fills the white and + rustling sail</i><br /></span> <span><i>And bends the + gallant mast</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Tuesday, July 25th</i>.—There was not much wind + during the night, and Palma was consequently still visible when + I came on deck at daybreak. We had a light fair wind in the + morning, accompanied by a heavy swell, which caused us to roll + so much that I found it very difficult to do anything. Several + shoals of flying fish skimmed past us along the surface of the + water, occasionally rising to a considerable height above it. + Their beautiful wings, glittering in the bright sunlight, + looked like delicate silver filigree-work. In the night one + flew on board, only to be preserved in spirits by Dr. + Potter.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, July 29th</i>.—For the last three days we + have been going on quietly with fair, warm weather, but a nice + fresh breeze sprang up to-day. At midday the sun was so exactly + vertical over our heads, that it was literally possible to + stand under the shadow of one's own hatbrim, and be sheltered + all round. Our navigators experienced considerable difficulty + in taking their noon-tide observations, as the sun appeared to + dodge about in every direction.</p> + + <p>About two o'clock we made the high land of St. Antonio, one + of the Cape de Verde Islands, and, soon afterwards, the lower + land of St Vincent. Some doubt existing as to the prevalence of + fever at the latter place, Tom <span class="pagenum">Page + 34<a name="Page_34" + id="Page_34"></a></span>decided not to stop there, for fear + of having to undergo quarantine at Rio de Janeiro. We + therefore shortened sail, and passed slowly between the + islands to the anchorage beyond the Bird Rock. This is a + very small island, of perfectly conical form, covered with + thousands of sea-fowl, who live here undisturbed by any + other inhabitants. The town of Porto Grande, with its rows + of white houses on the sea-shore, at the base of the rocky + crags, looked clean and comfortable in the evening light. + During the day, however, it must be a hot and glaring place, + for there are no trees to afford shade, nor, indeed, any + kind of vegetation. The water, too, is bad, and all supplies + for passing steamers are brought from the other islands, at + very uncertain intervals. It is still a great + coaling-station, though not so much used as it was formerly, + before the opening of the Suez Canal. The ships come out + with coal, and go away in ballast (there is nothing else to + be had here), procured from a point near the town, to Rio or + elsewhere, where they pick up their homeward cargo of fruit, + &c.</p> + + <p>The absence of twilight in these latitudes, both at dawn and + sunset, is certainly very remarkable. This morning, at four + o'clock, the stars were shining brightly; ten minutes later the + day had commenced to break; and at half-past four the sun had + risen above the horizon, and was gilding the surrounding + mountain tops.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, July 30th</i>.—About 10 a.m. we were off + Tarafal Bay—a most hopeless-looking place for supplies. + High rocky mountains, sandy slopes, and black volcanic beach, + composed a scene of arid desolation, in the midst of which was + situated one small white house, with four windows and a + thatched roof, surrounded by a little green patch of + sugar-canes and cocoa-nut palms.</p> + + <p>But the result proved the sageness of the advice contained + in the old proverb, not to trust to appearances only; for, + whilst we were at breakfast, Mr. Martinez, the son of the owner + of the one whitewashed cottage to be seen, came on + <span class="pagenum">Page 35<a name="Page_35" + id="Page_35"></a></span>board. To our surprise, he spoke + English extremely well, and promised us all sorts of + supplies, if we could wait until three o'clock in the + afternoon. Having agreed to do this, we shortly afterwards + went ashore in his boat, with a crew of more than half-naked + negroes, and a hot row of about three miles brought us to + the shore, where, after some little difficulty, we succeeded + in effecting a landing. Our feet immediately sank into the + hot black sand, composed entirely of volcanic deposits and + small pieces, or rather grains, of amber, through which we + had a fatiguing walk until we reached some palm-trees, + shading a little pool of water. Here we left some of the + men, with instructions to fill the breakers they had brought + with them, while we walked on along the beach, past the + remains of an English schooner that caught fire not far from + this island, and was run ashore by her captain, thirty years + ago. Her iron anchor, chain, and wheel still remained, + together with two queer little iron cannon, which I should + have much liked to carry off as a memorial of our visit. We + then turned up a narrow shadeless path, bordered by stone + walls, leading away from the sea, past a sugar-mill and a + ruin. A few almond, castor-oil, and fig trees were growing + amongst the sugar-canes, and as we mounted the hill we could + see some thirty round straw huts, like beehives, on the + sandy slopes beside the little stream. An abrupt turn in the + mountains, amid which, at a distance of three leagues, this + tiny river takes its rise, hides it from the sea, so that + the narrow valley which it fertilises looks like a small + oasis in the desert of rocks and sand.</p> + + <p>Mr. Martinez's house, where we sat for some time, and + beneath the windows of which the one stream of the island runs, + was comparatively cool. Outside, the negro washerwomen were + busy washing clothes in large turtle-shell tubs, assisted, or + hindered, by the 'washerwoman-bird,' a kind of white crane, who + appeared quite tame, playing about just like a kitten, pecking + at the clothes or the women's feet, <span class="pagenum">Page + 36<a name="Page_36" + id="Page_36"></a></span>and then running away and hiding + behind a tree. The stream was full of water-cresses, while + the burnt-up little garden contained an abundance of + beautiful flowers. There were scarlet and yellow mimosas, of + many kinds, combining every shade of exquisite green velvety + foliage, alpinias, with pink, waxy flowers and crimson and + gold centres, oleanders, begonias, hibiscus, allamandas, and + arum and other lilies.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_052" + id="Illus_052"></a> <img src="images/t_052.jpg" + width="184" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Tarafal Bay, St. Antonio" + title="Illustration: Tarafal Bay, St. Antonio" /><br /> + <b>Tarafal Bay, St. Antonio</b><br /> + <a href="images/052.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>Mr. Bingham sketched, I took some photographs, Dr. Potter + and the children caught butterflies, and the rest of our party + wandered about. Every five minutes a negro arrived with a + portion of our supplies. One brought a sheep, another a + milch-goat for baby, while the rest contributed, severally, a + couple of cocoa-nuts, a papaya, three mangoes, a few + water-cresses, a sack of sweet potatoes, a bottle of milk, + three or four quinces, a bunch of bananas, a little honey, + half-a-dozen cabbages, some veal and pork, and so on; until it + appeared as if every little garden on either side of the three + leagues of stream must have yielded up its entire produce, and + we had accumulated sacks full of cocoa-nuts and potatoes, + hundreds of eggs, and dozens of chickens and ducks. It was very + amusing to see the things arrive. They were brought in by + people varying in colour from dark yellow to the blackest + ebony, and ranging in size from fine stalwart men, over six + feet in height, to tiny little blackies of about three feet + six, with curly hair, snowy teeth, and mischievous, beady eyes. + The arrival of the provision boat and the transfer of its + miscellaneous cargo to the 'Sunbeam' was quite an amusing + sight. The pretty black goat and the sheep bleated, the fowls + cackled, and the ducks quacked, while the negroes chatted and + laughed as they handed and hauled on board fish of all shapes + and sizes, bunches of bananas, piles of cocoa-nuts, sacks of + potatoes, and many other things, finishing up with a tiny black + boy, about three years old, whom I think they would rather have + liked to leave behind with us, if we would only have taken him. + The <span class="pagenum">Page 37<a name="Page_37" + id="Page_37"></a></span>fish proved excellent, though some + of them really seemed almost too pretty to eat. A brilliant + gold fish, weighing about three pounds, and something like a + grey mullet in flavour, was perhaps the best. The prices + were very curious. Chickens a shilling each, ducks five + shillings, goats thirty shillings, and sheep ten shillings. + Vegetables, fruit, and flowers were extremely cheap; but the + charge for water, fetched from the spring in our own + breakers by our own crew, with but little assistance from + four or five negroes, was 3<i>l</i>. 18<i>s</i>. However, as + ours is the only yacht, with one exception, that has ever + visited this island, there was nothing for it except to pay + the bill without demur. <span class="pagenum">Page + 38<a name="Page_38" + id="Page_38"></a></span></p> + + <p>I never in my life felt so warm as I did to-day on shore, + though the inhabitants say it will not be <i>really</i> hot for + two months yet; I never before saw cocoa-nut palms growing; and + I never tasted a mango until this morning; so I have + experienced three new sensations in one day.</p> + + <p>The night was fearfully close, muggy, and thundery, the + temperature in the cabins being 89°, in spite of open + sky-lights and port-holes. Generally speaking, it has not + hitherto been as hot as we expected, especially on board the + yacht itself. On deck there is almost always a nice breeze, but + below it is certainly warm.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, August 1st</i>.—Yesterday we were still + under sail, but to-day it has been necessary to steam, for the + wind has fallen too light. There was a heavy roll from the + south, and the weather continued hot and oppressive. In the + cabins the thermometer stood at 89° during the whole of the + night, in spite of all our efforts to improve the temperature. + We therefore put three of the children in the deck-house to + sleep, opening the doors and windows; and some of the rest of + our party slept on deck in hammocks. In anticipation of the + heavy equatorial rains, which Captain Lecky had predicted might + commence to-day, we had had the awnings put up; a fortunate + piece of foresight, for, before midnight, the rain came down in + torrents.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, August 2nd</i>.—At daybreak the sky was + covered with heavy black clouds, and the atmosphere was as hot + and muggy as ever. We had a great deal of rain during the day, + and took advantage of the opportunity to fill every available + tub, bucket, and basin, to say nothing of the awnings. It came + down in such sheets that mackintoshes were comparatively + useless, and we had soon filled our seventeen breakers, the + cistern, and the boats, from which we had removed the covers, + with very good, though somewhat dirty, washing water.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, August 4th</i>.—We were only 289 miles off + Sierra Leone in the morning, and at noon therefore Tom + <span class="pagenum">Page 39<a name="Page_39" + id="Page_39"></a></span>decided to put about. Having done + so, we found that we went along much more easily and quite + as fast on the other tack. We maintained a good rate of + speed on our new course, which was now nearly due west, + passing a large barque with every stitch of canvas set, hand + over hand.</p> + + <p>We are still in the Guinea current, and the temperature of + the water is 82°, even in the early morning; but the heat + of the sun does not seem to have much effect upon it, as it + does not vary to any great extent during the day.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_054" + id="Illus_054"></a> <img src="images/t_054.jpg" + width="152" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Father Neptune" + title="Illustration: Father Neptune" /><br /> + <b>Father Neptune</b><br /> + <a href="images/054.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>In the evening we saw the Southern Cross for the first time, + and were much disappointed in its appearance. The fourth star + is of smaller magnitude than the others, and the whole group is + only for a very short time in a really upright position, + inclining almost always either to one side or the other, as it + rises and sets.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, August 8th</i>.—We crossed the line at + daylight.</p> + + <p>This event caused much fun and excitement, both in cabin and + forecastle. The conventional hair was put across the field of + the telescope for the unsophisticated 'really to see the line,' + and many firmly believed they did see it, and discussed its + appearance at some length. Jim Allen, one of our tallest + sailors, and coxswain of the gig, dressed in blue, with long + oakum wig and beard, gilt paper crown, and trident and fish + impaled in one hand, was seated on a gun-carriage, and made a + capital Father Neptune. <span class="pagenum">Page + 40<a name="Page_40" + id="Page_40"></a></span>Our somewhat portly engineer, Mr. + Rowbotham, with fur-trimmed dressing gown and cap, and bent + form, leaning on a stick, his face partially concealed by a + long grey beard, and a large band-box of pills on one arm, + made an equally good doctor to his Marine Majesty, while the + part of Mrs. Trident was ably filled by one of the youngest + sailors, dressed in some of the maids' clothes; but the + accompanying pictures will give a better idea than any + description of mine.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_055" + id="Illus_055"></a> <img src="images/t_055.jpg" + width="170" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: His Doctor (Crossing the Line)" + title="Illustration: His Doctor (Crossing the Line)" /><br /> + + <b>His Doctor (Crossing the Line)</b><br /> + <a href="images/055.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>Soon afterwards we saw an enormous shoal of grampuses, large + black fish, about 25 feet in length, something between a + dolphin and a whale, with the very ugliest jaws, or rather + snouts, imaginable. They are of a predatory and ferocious + disposition, attacking not only sharks, dolphins, and + porpoises, but even whales, more than twice their own size. We + also passed through enormous quantities of flying-fish, no + doubt driven to the surface by dolphins and bonitos. They were + much larger and stronger in the wing than any we have hitherto + seen.</p> + + <p>Lulu's puppies, born yesterday, have been respectively named + Butterfly (who survived her birth only an hour), Poseidon, + Aphrodite, Amphitrite, and Thetis—names suggested by + their birth-place on the ocean close to his Marine Majesty's + supposed equatorial palace.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_056" + id="Illus_056"></a> <img src="images/t_056.jpg" + width="240" + height="142" + alt="Illustration: Lulu and her Puppies" + title="Illustration: Lulu and her Puppies" /><br /> + <b>Lulu and her Puppies</b><br /> + <a href="images/056.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>At noon we were 250 miles off St. Paul's Rocks.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, August 10th</i>.—A very hot, showery day. + Saw two large ships in the distance. In the morning we were + almost becalmed for a time, but the breeze returned + <span class="pagenum">Page 41<a name="Page_41" + id="Page_41"></a></span>during the afternoon, and we were + able to proceed on our course. I think this has been the + most lovely of the many exquisite days we have enjoyed since + we left England. It commenced with a magnificent sunrise, + and ended with an equally gorgeous sunset, only to be + succeeded by a beautiful moonlight night, so clear and + bright that we could see to read ordinary print on deck.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, August 12th</i>.—At noon we were 300 + miles off Bahia, a place we have made up our minds not to + visit, as it would lengthen our voyage considerably, and there + is not much to see there. We have therefore decided to proceed + direct to Rio, where we are looking forward to arrive on + Wednesday or Thursday next.</p> + + <p>The night was showery, with a good deal of wind and sea.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, August 13th</i>.—Sailing in the tropics is + really very delightful! When going to the westward, there is + almost always, at this season of the year, a favourable breeze, + and the weather is generally either quite fair or moderately + so.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span>Whispered to it, westward, westward,<br /></span> + <span>And with speed it darted forward.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p>We had service at 11.15 a.m., and again at 5.30 p.m. The + choir has considerably improved; one of our new men plays the + violin very well, and frequently + accompanies<span class="pagenum">Page 42<a name="Page_42" + id="Page_42"></a></span> the children and the nurse in their + songs. On a clear calm night, beneath a tropical sky, when + the members of this little group assemble on deck, and, by + the light of a lantern, sing some of their simple songs, the + effect produced is both melodious and picturesque.</p> + + <p>The wind dropped at about 10 p.m., and we had an unpleasant + amount of roll during the night, sails flapping, spars + creaking, and booms swinging as if they would pull the masts + out of the vessel.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_057" + id="Illus_057"></a> <img src="images/t_057.jpg" + width="228" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Vespers" + title="Illustration: Vespers" /><br /> + <b>Vespers</b><br /> + <a href="images/057.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Monday, August 14th</i>.—This morning we saw a + small schooner ahead, and thinking from her manoeuvres that she + wished to speak us, we made our number and ran towards her. We + soon found out, however, that she was a whaler, in chase of two + large grampuses. She had two men on the look-out in the + cross-trees, in a sort of iron cage; and though she was of much + smaller tonnage than the 'Sunbeam,' she carried five big boats, + one of which, full of men, was ready to be lowered into the + water, the <span class="pagenum">Page 43<a name="Page_43" + id="Page_43"></a></span>instant they had approached + sufficiently near to the whale or grampus. These seas used + formerly to abound with whalers, but they are now much less + numerous, the seasons having been bad of late.</p> + + <p>To-night the stars were especially brilliant, and we spent + some hours in trying to make out their names. Vega, our polar + star for some time to come, shone conspicuously bright, and the + Southern Cross could be seen to great advantage.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, August 16th</i>.—We had a fine fair + breeze all day, and at 5 p.m. there was a cry from the + mast-head of 'Land ahead!' Great excitement immediately + prevailed on board, and Tom and Captain Brown rushed, for about + the twelfth time, to the foretop to see if the report was true. + They were soon able to announce that Cape Frio was visible on + the port bow, about thirty-five miles distant. After even a + fortnight at sea, an indescribable sensation is produced by + this cry, and by the subsequent sight of the land itself. When + we came up on deck this evening, after dinner, we all gazed on + the lighthouse on the still distant shore as if we had never + beheld such a thing in our lives before. The colour and + temperature of the water had perceptibly changed, the former + from a beautiful, clear, dark ultramarine to a muddy green; + innumerable small birds, moths, locusts, and grasshoppers came + on board; and, having given special orders that we were to be + called early the next morning, we went to bed in the fond hope + that we should be able to enter Rio harbour at daybreak.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, August 17th</i>.—'L'homme propose; Dieu + dispose.' Steam was up at midnight, but by that time it was + blowing half a gale of wind from the south-west, with such a + steep short sea that the screw was scarcely ever properly + immersed, but went racing round and round in the air with + tremendous velocity, as we pitched and rolled about. Our + progress was therefore at the rate of + <span class="pagenum">Page 44<a name="Page_44" + id="Page_44"></a></span>something rather under a mile an + hour, and at daybreak, instead of entering the harbour of + Rio, as we had hoped to do, we found ourselves close to Cape + Frio.</p> + + <p>About 8 a.m. matters mended, the wind moderating and + changing its direction slightly; so that, under steam and sail, + we were soon going along the coast at the rate of four or five + miles an hour. The surf was breaking with a loud roar upon the + white sandy beach, while the spray was carried by the force of + the wind far inland, over the strip of flat fertile-looking + country, lying between the sea and a chain of low + sugarloaf-shaped mountains, parallel with the shore, and only a + short distance off.</p> + + <p>Our course lay between the mainland and the islands of Maya + and Payo, where the groves of bananas and other trees looked + very miserable in the wind. The tall isolated palm-trees, whose + elastic stems bowed readily before the fury of the blast, + looked, as they were twisted and whirled hither and thither, + like umbrellas turned inside out. Passing the false Sugarloaf + mountain, as it is called, we next opened out the true one, the + Gavia, and the chain of mountains beyond, the outlines of which + bear an extraordinary resemblance to the figure of a man lying + on his back, the profile of the face being very like that of + the late Duke of Wellington. As the sun sank in gorgeous + splendour behind these hills, I think I never saw a grander or + more beautiful sight; though the sky was so red and + stormy-looking that our hopes of a fine day to-morrow were but + faint.</p> + + <p>Before entering the harbour, a bar had to be crossed, which + is a dangerous operation all the world over. The skylights and + hatches were fastened down, and those of our party who did not + like being shut up below took their places on the bridge, + where, for the first time since we left England, it felt really + quite cold. As we advanced, the beautiful harbour, with its + long rows of glittering gas-lights, extending for miles on + either side of the bay, and <span class="pagenum">Page + 45<a name="Page_45" + id="Page_45"></a></span>illuminating the city and suburbs, + gradually became visible. On our left lay the two islands, + Rodonda and Raza, on the latter of which is situated a + lighthouse. The wind was blowing off the land when we + reached the bar, so that, after all our preparations, there + was hardly any sea to encounter, and the moment we were + over, the water on the other side was perfectly smooth. A + gun and a blue light from Fort Santa Cruz, answered + immediately by a similar signal from Fort Santa Lucia, + announced our arrival, and we shortly afterwards dropped our + anchor in the quarantine ground of Rio close to Botafogo + Bay, in the noble harbour of Nictheroy.</p> + + <p>After dinner it rained heavily, and continued to do so + during the whole night.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_061" + id="Illus_061"></a> <img src="images/t_061.jpg" + width="240" + height="163" + alt="Illustration: Botafogo Bay" + title="Illustration: Botafogo Bay" /><br /> + <b>Botafogo Bay</b><br /> + <a href="images/061.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 46<a name="Page_46" + id="Page_46"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_IV" + id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">RIO DE JANEIRO.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>The sun is warm, the sky is + clear</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>The waves are dancing + fast and bright</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Blue isles + and snowy mountains wear</i><br /></span> <span><i>The + purple noon's transparent light</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Friday, August 18th</i>.—The clouds still hung + heavy on the hills, or rather mountains, which surround the + bay, occasionally descending in the form of torrents of rain, + and hiding everything from our view.</p> + + <p>Early in the morning we weighed anchor and steamed up the + bay to the man-of-war anchorage, a much pleasanter situation + than the quarantine harbour, where we had brought up last + night. About 9.30 a.m. the health officers came on board, and + half an hour later we had a visit from the custom-house + official, who required Tom to sign and seal a declaration upon + oath that he had no cargo on board, and not more coal than we + absolutely required for our own consumption. + <span class="pagenum">Page 47<a name="Page_47" + id="Page_47"></a></span></p> + + <p>About eleven o'clock we put on our mackintoshes and thick + boots, and, accompanied by an interpreter, who (together with + several washerwomen) had suddenly made his appearance on board, + rowed ashore, pushing our way through crowds of boats laden + with fruit and vegetables. The landing-place was close to the + market, at some broken-down steps, and was crowded with + chattering negroes, of every shade of colour. The quays seemed + covered with piles of fruit and vegetables, discharged from the + boats, the principal produce being sugar-cane, bananas, and + oranges. Each side street that we came to was a little river, + which had to be crossed, or rather forded, after paddling + through the mud in the main thoroughfare.</p> + + <p>Our first visit was to the post-office—'no + letters'—then to the British Consulate—'no + letters'—and finally to the Legation, but there was + nobody at home there; so we set off for the Hôtel des + Etrangers, to breakfast. Our way lay through the straggling + suburbs of the city for about two miles, and as we drove along + we could see and admire, despite the heavy rain, the + magnificent groves of palm-trees, and the brilliancy and beauty + of the tropical vegetation in the various private and public + gardens that we passed.</p> + + <p>After breakfast we returned to the Legation, where we were + most kindly received, but, much to our regret, no letters were + forthcoming. We next paid a visit to some of the shops in the + Rua do Ouvidor, for the sale of imitations of flowers, made + from the undyed feathers of birds, and a large number of the + more expensive varieties of ordinary artificial flowers, each + petal consisting of the entire throat or breast of a + humming-bird, and the leaves are made from the wings of + beetles. They are very rare and beautiful, their manufacture + being quite a <i>spécialité</i> of this city. The + prices asked astonished us greatly; the cost of five sprays, + which I had been commissioned to buy, was 29<i>l</i>., and the + price of all the others <span class="pagenum">Page + 48<a name="Page_48" + id="Page_48"></a></span> was proportionately high. But then + they wear for ever. I have had some for nine years, and they + are as good now as when they were bought.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, August 19th</i>.—Though far from + brilliant, the weather improved, and we were able to enjoy + occasional glimpses of the beautiful scenery around us.</p> + + <p>Mr. Gough and Mr. O'Conor breakfasted with us on board, and + we afterwards proceeded in a 'bond' to the Botanical Gardens, + about seven miles out of the city. These 'bonds,' which are a + great institution here, are large carriages, either open or + closed, drawn sometimes by one, sometimes by two, sometimes by + three mules. They go at a great pace, and run very smoothly. + Ordinary carriages are dear; and as tramways have been laid + down in almost every street and road, driving is a rather + difficult affair. On our road we passed several + delightful-looking private gardens. The railings were + completely covered, some with white stephanotis and scarlet + lapageria, others with a beautiful orange-coloured creeper and + lilac bougainvillæa, or passion-flowers of many colours + and variety. Inside we could see large trees with green and + yellow stripes, croton-oil plants, spotted and veined + caladiums, and dracænas, the whole being shaded by + orange-trees.</p> + + <p>Along the edge of Botafogo Bay there is a delightful drive, + beneath a splendid avenue of imperial palms, extending to the + gates of the Botanical Gardens. Each specimen rises straight up + like the column of an Egyptian temple, and is crowned with a + feathery tuft of large shiny dark green leaves, some thirty + feet in length. The clumps of bamboos, too, were very fine, and + nearly all the trees seemed to be full of curious orchids and + parasites of every sort and kind.</p> + + <p>We had an agreeable drive back in the cool evening to dinner + at the Hôtel de l'Europe. The food was excellent, and + included some delicious tiny queer-shaped oysters, which are + found on the mangrove-trees, overhanging the water higher up + the bay. We afterwards went to a <span class="pagenum">Page + 49<a name="Page_49" + id="Page_49"></a></span>pleasant little reception, where we + enjoyed the splendid singing of some young Brazilian ladies, + and the subsequent row off to the yacht, in the moonlight, + was not the least delightful part of the programme.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, August 20th</i>.—At last a really fine day. + We could now, for the first time, thoroughly appreciate the + beauties of the noble bay of Nictheroy, though the distant + Organ mountains were still hidden from our view. In the + morning, we went to church on board H.M.S. 'Volage,' afterwards + rowing across the bay to Icaraky, where we took the tramway to + Santa Rosa. On our way we again passed many charming villas and + gardens, similar to those we had admired yesterday, while the + glorious and ever-attractive tropical vegetation abounded + everywhere. In spite of the great heat, the children seemed + untiring in the pursuit of butterflies, of which they succeeded + in catching many beautiful specimens.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, August 21st</i>.—After an early breakfast, + we started off to have a look at the market. The greatest + bustle and animation prevailed, and there were people and + things to see and observe in endless variety. The fish-market + was full of finny monsters of the deep, all new and strange to + us, whose odd Brazilian names would convey to a stranger but + little idea of the fish themselves. There was an enormous + rockfish, weighing about 300 pounds, with hideous face and + shiny back and fins; there were large ray, and skate, and + cuttle-fish—the <i>pieuvre</i> of Victor Hugo's + 'Travailleurs de la Mer'—besides baskets full of the + large prawns for which the coast is famous, eight or ten inches + long, and with antennæ of twelve or fourteen inches in + length. They make up in size for want of quality, for they are + insipid and tasteless, though, being tender, they make + excellent curry. The oysters, on the other hand, are + particularly small, but of the most delicious flavour. They are + brought from a park, higher up the bay, where, as I have said, + they grow on posts and the branches of the mangrove-tree, + <span class="pagenum">Page 50<a name="Page_50" + id="Page_50"></a></span> which hang down into the water. We + also saw a large quantity of fine mackerel, a good many + turtle and porpoises, and a few hammer-headed sharks. The + latter are very curious creatures, not unlike an ordinary + shark, but with a remarkable hammer-shaped projection on + either side of their noses for which it is difficult to + imagine a use.</p> + + <p>In the fruit-market were many familiar bright-coloured + fruits; for it is now the depth of winter at Rio, and the + various kinds that we saw were all such as would bear transport + to England. Fat, jet-black negresses, wearing turbans on their + heads, strings of coloured beads on their necks and arms, and + single long white garments, which appeared to be continually + slipping off their shoulders, here presided over + brilliant-looking heaps of oranges, bananas, pineapples, + passion-fruit, tomatoes, apples, pears, capsicums and peppers, + sugar-cane, cabbage-palms, cherimoyas, and bread-fruit.</p> + + <p>In another part of the market all sorts of live birds were + for sale, with a few live beasts, such as deer, monkeys, pigs, + guinea-pigs in profusion, rats, cats, dogs, marmosets, and a + dear little lion-monkey, very small and rather red, with a + beautiful head and mane, who roared exactly like a real lion in + miniature. We saw also cages full of small flamingoes, snipe of + various kinds, and a great many birds of smaller size, with + feathers of all shades of blue, red, and green, and metallic + hues of brilliant lustre, besides parrots, macaws, cockatoos + innumerable, and torchas, on stands. The torcha is a + bright-coloured black and yellow bird, about as big as a + starling, which puts its little head on one side and takes + flies from one's fingers in the prettiest and most enticing + manner. Unfortunately, it is impossible to introduce it into + England, as it cannot stand the change of climate. The other + birds included guinea-fowls, ducks, cocks and hens, pigeons, + doves, quails, &c., and many other varieties less familiar + or quite unknown to us. Altogether <span class="pagenum">Page + 51<a name="Page_51" + id="Page_51"></a></span>the visit was an extremely + interesting one, and well repaid us for our early + rising.</p> + + <p>At eleven o'clock we started for the Petropolis steamer, + which took us alongside a wooden pier, from the end of which + the train started, and we were soon wending our way through + sugar and coffee plantations, formed in the midst of the forest + of palms and other tropical trees. An Englishman has made a + large clearing here, and has established a fine farm, which he + hopes to work successfully by means of immigrant labour.</p> + + <p>After a journey of twenty minutes in the train, we reached + the station, at the foot of a hill, where we found several + four-mule carriages awaiting our arrival. The drive up from the + station to the town, over a pass in the Organ mountains, was + superb. At each turn of the road we had an ever-varying view of + the city of Rio and its magnificent bay. And then the banks of + this tropical high-road! From out a mass of rich verdure grew + lovely scarlet begonias, and spotted caladiums, shaded by + graceful tree-ferns and overhung by trees full of exquisite + parasites and orchids. Among these, the most conspicuous, after + the palms, are the tall thin-stemmed sloth-trees, so called + from their being a favourite resort of the sloth, who with + great difficulty crawls up into one of them, remains there + until he has demolished every leaf, and then passes on to the + next tree.</p> + + <p>The pace of the mules, up the steep incline, under a + broiling sun, was really wonderful. Half-way up we stopped to + change, at a buvette, where we procured some excellent Brazilia + coffee, of fine but exceedingly bitter flavour. Our next halt, + midway between the buvette and the top of the hill, was at a + spring of clear sparkling water, where we had an opportunity of + collecting some ferns and flowers; and on reaching the summit + we stopped once more, to enjoy the fine view over the Pass and + the bay of Nictheroy. The descent towards Petropolis then + <span class="pagenum">Page 52<a name="Page_52" + id="Page_52"></a></span>commenced; it lies in the hollow of + the hills, with a river flowing through the centre of its + broad streets, on either side of which are villas and + avenues of noble trees. Altogether it reminded me of + Bagnères-de-Luchon, in the Pyrenees, though the + general effect is unfortunately marred by the gay and rather + too fantastic painting of some of the houses.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, August 22nd</i>.—We were called at + half-past five, and, after a hasty breakfast, started on + horseback by seven o'clock for the Virgin Forest, about six + miles from Petropolis. After leaving the town and its suburbs, + we pursued our way by rough winding paths, across which huge + moths and butterflies flitted, and humming-birds buzzed in the + almond-trees. After a ride of an hour and a half, we entered + the silence and gloom of a vast forest. On every side extended + a tangled mass of wild, luxuriant vegetation: giant-palms, and + tree-ferns, and parasites are to be seen in all directions, + growing wherever they can find root-hold. Sometimes they kill + the tree which they favour with their attentions—one + creeper, in particular, being called 'Mata-pao' or 'Kill-tree;' + but, as a rule, they seem to get on very well together, and to + depend mutually upon one another for nourishment and support. + The most striking of these creepers is, perhaps, the liane, + whose tendrils grow straight downwards to the ground, twisting + themselves together in knots and bundles. Occasionally one + sees, suspended from a tree, at a height of some fifty feet, a + large lump of moss, from which scarlet orchids are growing; + looking like an enormous hanging flower-basket. All colours in + Brazil, whether of birds, insects, or flowers, are brilliant in + the extreme. Blue, violet, orange, scarlet, and yellow are + found in the richest profusion, and no pale or faint tints are + to be seen. Even white seems purer, clearer, and deeper than + the white of other countries.</p> + + <p>We had a long wet walk in the forest; the mosses and ferns + being kept moist and green by the innumerable little + <span class="pagenum">Page 53<a name="Page_53" + id="Page_53"></a></span>streams of water which abound + everywhere. Owing to the thickness of the surrounding + jungle, it was impossible to stray from our very narrow + path, notwithstanding the attractions of humming-birds, + butterflies, and flowers. At last we came to an opening in + the wood, whence we had a splendid view seawards, and where + it was decided to turn round and retrace our steps through + the forest. After walking some distance we found our horses + waiting, and after a hot but pleasant ride reached + Petropolis by twelve o'clock, in time for breakfast. + Letter-writing and butterfly-catching occupied the afternoon + until four o'clock, when I was taken out for a drive in a + comfortable little phaeton, with a pretty pair of horses, + while the rest of the party walked out to see a little more + of Petropolis and its environs. We drove past the Emperor's + palace—an Italian villa, standing in the middle of a + large garden—the new church, and the houses of the + principal inhabitants, most of which are shut up just now, + as everybody is out of town, but it all looked very green + and pleasant. It was interesting to see a curious breed of + dogs, descended from the bloodhounds formerly used in + hunting the poor Indians.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, August 23rd</i>.—At six o'clock we + assembled all on the balcony of the hotel to wait for the + coach, which arrived shortly afterwards. There was some little + delay and squabbling before we all found ourselves safely + established on the coach, but starting was quite another + matter, for the four white mules resolutely refused to move, + without a vast amount of screaming and shouting and plunging. + We had to pull up once or twice before we got clear of the + town, to allow more passengers to be somehow or other squeezed + in, and at each fresh start similar objections on the part of + the mules had to be overcome.</p> + + <p>The air felt fresh when we started, but before we had + proceeded far we came into a thick, cold, wet fog, which, after + the heat of the last few weeks, seemed to pierce us to the very + marrow. Eight miles farther on the four frisky + <span class="pagenum">Page 54<a name="Page_54" + id="Page_54"></a></span>white mules were exchanged for five + steady dun-coloured ones, which were in their turn replaced + after a seven-mile stage by four nice bays, who took us + along at a tremendous pace. The sun began by this time to + penetrate the mist, and the surrounding country became + visible. We found that we were following the course of the + river, passing through an avenue of coral-trees, loaded with + the most brilliant flowers and fruit imaginable, and full of + parroquets and fluttering birds of many hues.</p> + + <p>We stopped at several small villages, and at about 11 a.m. + reached Entre Rios, having changed mules seven times, and done + the 59-1/2 miles in four hours and fifty minutes, including + stoppages—pretty good work, especially as the heat during + the latter portion of the journey had been as great as the cold + was at the commencement. The term 'cold' must here be taken + only in a relative sense, for the thermometer was never lower + than 48°, though, having been accustomed for a long while + to 85°, we felt the change severely.</p> + + <p>After a capital breakfast at the inn near the station, we + got into the train and began a very hot dusty journey over the + Serra to Palmeiras, which place was reached at 4 p.m. We were + met on our arrival by Dr. Gunning, who kindly made room for Tom + and me at his house, the rest of our party proceeding to the + hotel. The view from the windows of the house, which is + situated on the very edge of a hill, over the mountains of the + Serra, glowing with the light of the setting sun, was perfectly + enchanting; and after a refreshing cold bath one was able to + appreciate it as it deserved. A short stroll into the forest + adjoining the house proved rich in treasures, for in a few + minutes I had gathered twenty-six varieties of ferns, including + gold and silver ferns, two creeping ferns, and many other + kinds. The moon rose, and the fireflies flashed about among the + palm-trees, as we sat in the verandah before dinner, while in + several places on the distant hills we could see circles of + bright <span class="pagenum">Page 55<a name="Page_55" + id="Page_55"></a></span>flames, where the forest had been + set on fire in order to make clearings.</p> + + <p>We were up next morning in time to see the sun rise from + behind the mountains, and as it gradually became warmer the + humming-birds and butterflies came out and buzzed and flitted + among the flowers in front of our windows. We had planned to + devote the day to a visit to Barra, and it was, therefore, + necessary to hurry to the station by eight o'clock to meet the + train, where we stopped twenty minutes to breakfast at what + appeared to be a capital hotel, built above the station. The + rooms were large and lofty, everything was scrupulously clean, + and the dishes most appetising-looking. Our carriage was then + shunted and hooked on to the other train, and we proceeded to + the station of Santa Anna, where Mr. Faro met us with eight + mules and horses, and a large old-fashioned carriage, which + held some of us, the rest of the party galloping on in front. + We galloped also, and upset one unfortunate horse, luckily + without doing him any harm. After a couple of miles of a rough + road we arrived at the gates of the Baron's grounds, where the + old negro slave-coachman amused us very much by <i>ordering</i> + his young master to conduct the equestrians round to the house + by another way. Beneath the avenue of palm-trees, leading from + the gates to the house, grew orange, lemon, and citron trees, + trained as espaliers, while behind them again tall rose-bushes + and pomegranates showed their bright faces. Driving through an + archway we arrived at the house, and, with much politeness and + many bows, were conducted indoors, in order that we might rest + ourselves and get rid of some of the dust of our journey.</p> + + <p>Santa Anna is one of the largest coffee fazendas in this + part of Brazil. The house occupies three sides of a square, in + the middle of which heaps of coffee were spread out to dry in + the sun. The centre building is the dwelling-house, with a + narrow strip of garden, full of sweet-smelling flowers, + <span class="pagenum">Page 56<a name="Page_56" + id="Page_56"></a></span>in front of it; the right wing is + occupied by the slaves' shops and warehouses, and by the + chapel; while the left wing contains the stables, domestic + offices, and other slave-rooms.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_071" + id="Illus_071"></a> <img src="images/t_071.jpg" + width="167" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: The Slave Village, Fazenda, Santa Anna" + title="Illustration: The Slave Village, Fazenda, Santa Anna" /> + <br /> + <b>The Slave Village, Fazenda, Santa Anna</b><br /> + <a href="images/071.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>By law, masters are bound to give their slaves one day's + rest in every seven, and any work the slaves may choose to do + on that day is paid for at the same rate as free labour. But + the day selected for this purpose is not necessarily Sunday; + and on adjoining fazendas different days are invariably chosen, + in order to prevent the slaves from meeting and getting into + mischief. Thursday (to-day) was Sunday on this estate, and we + soon saw all the slaves mustering in <span class="pagenum">Page + 57<a name="Page_57" + id="Page_57"></a></span> holiday attire in the shade of one + of the verandahs. They were first inspected, and then ranged + in order, the children being placed in front, the young + women next, then the old women, the old men, and finally the + young men. In this order they marched into the corridor + facing the chapel, to hear mass. The priest and his acolyte, + in gorgeous robes, performed the usual service, and the + slaves chanted the responses in alternate companies, so that + sopranos, contraltos, tenors, and basses, contrasted in a + striking and effective manner. The singing, indeed, was + excellent; far better than in many churches at home. After + the conclusion of the mass the master shook hands with + everybody, exchanged good wishes with his slaves, and + dismissed them. While they were dawdling about, gossiping in + the verandah, I had a closer look at the babies, which had + all been brought to church. They seemed of every shade of + colour, the complexions of some being quite fair, but the + youngest, a dear little woolly-headed thing, was black as + jet, and only three weeks old. The children all seemed to be + on very good terms with their master and his overseers, and + not a bit afraid of them. They are fed most liberally, and + looked fat and healthy. For breakfast they have coffee and + bread; for dinner, fresh pork alternately with dried beef, + and black beans (the staple food of the poor of this + country); and for supper they have coffee, bread, and + mandioca, or tapioca.</p> + + <p>Returning to the house, we sat down, a party of thirty, to + an elaborate breakfast, the table being covered with all sorts + of Brazilian delicacies, after which several complimentary + speeches were made, and we all started off to walk round the + fazenda. Our first visit was to the little schoolchildren, + thirty-four in number, who sang very nicely. Then to the + hospital, a clean, airy building, in which there were happily + but few patients, and next we inspected the new machinery, + worked by water-power, for cleaning the coffee and preparing it + for market. The harvest lasts from May to August. The best + quality of coffee is picked before it is + <span class="pagenum">Page 58<a name="Page_58" + id="Page_58"></a></span>quite ripe, crushed to free it from + the husk, and then dried in the sun, sometimes in heaps, and + sometimes raked out flat, in order to gain the full benefit + of the heat. It is afterwards gathered up into baskets and + carefully picked over, and this, being very light work, is + generally performed by young married women with babies. + There were nineteen tiny piccaninnies, in baskets, beside + their mothers, in one room we entered, and in another there + were twenty just able to run about.</p> + + <p>Cassava is an important article of food here, and it was + interesting to watch the various processes by which it is + turned into flour, tapioca, or starch. As it is largely + exported, there seems no reason why it should not be introduced + into India, for the ease with which it is cultivated and + propagated, the extremes of temperature it will bear, and the + abundance of its crop, all tend to recommend it. We went on to + look at the maize being shelled, crushed, and ground into + coarse or fine flour, for cakes and bread, and the process of + crushing the sugar-cane, turning its juice into sugar and rum, + and its refuse into potash. All the food manufactured here is + used on the estate; coffee alone is exported. I felt thoroughly + exhausted by the time we returned to the house, only to + exchange adieus and step into the carriage on our way to Barra + by rail <i>en route</i> to Rio de Janeiro. After passing + through several long tunnels at the top of the Serra, the line + drops down to Palmeiras, after which the descent became very + picturesque, as we passed, by steep inclines, through virgin + forests full of creepers, ferns, flowers, and orchids. The + sunset was magnificent, and the subsequent coolness of the + atmosphere most grateful. Leaving the Emperor's palace of + São Christovão behind, Rio was entered from a + fresh side. It seemed a long drive through the streets to the + Hôtel de l'Europe, where, after an excellent though + hurried dinner, we contrived to be in time for a private + representation at the Alcazar. As a rule, ladies do not go to + this theatre, but there were a good many there + <span class="pagenum">Page 59<a name="Page_59" + id="Page_59"></a></span>on the present occasion. Neither the + play nor the actors, however, were very interesting, and all + our party were excessively tired; so we left early, and had + a delightful row off to the yacht, in the bright + moonlight.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, August 28th</i>.—We have all been so much + interested in the advertisements we read in the daily papers of + slaves to be sold or hired, that arrangements were made with a + Brazilian gentleman for some of our party to have an + opportunity of seeing the way in which these transactions are + carried on. No Englishman is allowed to hold slaves here, and + it is part of the business of the Legation to see that this law + is strictly enforced. The secrets of their trade are + accordingly jealously guarded by the natives, especially from + the English. The gentlemen had therefore to disguise themselves + as much as possible, one pretending to be a rich Yankee, who + had purchased large estates between Santos and San Paulo, which + he had determined to work with slave instead of coolie labour. + He was supposed to have come to Rio to select some slaves, but + would be obliged to see and consult his partner before deciding + on purchase. They were taken to a small shop in the city, and, + after some delay, were conducted to a room upstairs, where they + waited a quarter of an hour. Twenty-two men and eleven women + and children were then brought in for inspection. They declared + themselves suitable for a variety of occupations, in-door and + out, and all appeared to look anxiously at their possible + purchaser, with a view to ascertain what they had to hope for + in the future. One couple in particular, a brother and sister, + about fourteen and fifteen years old respectively, were most + anxious not to be separated, but to be sold together; and the + tiny children seemed quite frightened at being spoken to or + touched by the white men. Eight men and five women having been + specially selected as fit subjects for further consideration, + the visit terminated.</p> + + <p>The daily Brazilian papers are full of advertisements of + slaves for sale, and descriptions of men, pigs, children, + <span class="pagenum">Page 60<a name="Page_60" + id="Page_60"></a></span>cows, pianos, women, houses, + &c., to be disposed of, are inserted in the most + indiscriminate manner. In one short half-column of the + 'Jornal do Commercio,' published within the last day or two, + the following announcements, amongst many similar ones, + appear side by side:—</p> + + <div style="font-size:90%;"> + <table cellspacing="0" + cellpadding="4" + border="2" + frame="hsides" + summary="Advertisements (English translations in right column)"> + <tr> + <td valign="top">VENDE-SE uma escrava, de 22 + annos,<br /> + boa figura, lava, engomma e cose bem;<br /> + informa-se na rua de S. Pedro n. 97.</td> + + <td>FOR SALE.—A female slave, 22 years + of<br /> + age, a good figure, washes, irons, and<br /> + sews well; for particulars apply at No. 97<br /> + rua de S. Pedro</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>VENDE-SE ou aluga-se um rico piano<br /> + forte do autor Erard, de 3 cordas, por<br /> + 280$, garantido; na rua da Quitanda n. 42,<br /> + 2 andar.</td> + + <td>FOR SALE, OR TO BE LET ON<br /> + Hire.—A splendid trichord pianoforte<br /> + by Erard, for $280, guaranteed; apply at<br /> + rua da Quitanda No. 42, 2nd floor.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>VENDE-SE, por 1,500$, um escravo de<br /> + 20 annos, para serviço de padaria; na<br /> + rua da Princeza dos Cajueiros n. 97.</td> + + <td>TO BE SOLD FOR $1,500.—A male<br /> + slave 20 years of age, fit for a baker's<br /> + establishment; apply at rua da Princeza dos<br /> + Cajueiros No. 97.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>VENDE-SE uma machina Singer, para<br /> + qualquer costura, trabalha perfeitamente,<br /> + por preço muito commodo; trata-se<br /> + na rua do Sabão n. 95.</td> + + <td>FOR SALE.—On very reasonable terms,<br /> + a Singer's sewing-machine, adapted for<br /> + any description of work; works splendidly:<br /> + apply at No. 95 rua do Sabão.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top">VENDE-SE uma preta moça, + boa figura e<br /> + de muito boa indole, com tres filhos,<br /> + sendo uma negrinha de 6 annos, um moleque<br /> + de 5 e uma ingenua de 3, cabenda cozinhar<br /> + bem, lavar e engommar; na mesma casa<br /> + vende-se só uma negrinha de 12 annos, + de<br /> + conducta afiançada e muito propria + para<br /> + serviço de casa de familia, por ja ter + bons<br /> + principios, tendo vindo de Santa Catharina;<br /> + na rua da Uruguayana n. 90 sobrado.</td> + + <td valign="top">FOR SALE.—A good black + woman, good<br /> + figure, good disposition, with three<br /> + children, who are a little black girl 6 years<br /> + of age, a black boy of 5, and a child 3<br /> + years of age; she is a good cook, washes and<br /> + irons well. At the same house there is + likewise<br /> + for sale a little black girl 12 years of<br /> + age: her character will be guaranteed; she<br /> + is well adapted for the service of a family,<br /> + as she has had a good beginning, having<br /> + come from Santa Catharina; apply at No.<br /> + 90 rua da Uruguayana, first floor.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top">VENDE-SE o Diccionario portuguez + de<br /> + Lacerda, em dous grandes volumes, novo,<br /> + vindo pelo ultimo paquete, por 30$, + custão<br /> + aqui 40$; na rua do Hospicio n. 15, 2º<br /> + andar.</td> + + <td valign="top">FOR SALE.—Lacerda's + Portuguese Dictionary,<br /> + in two large volumes, quite new,<br /> + arrived by the last mail, price $30, costs + here<br /> + $40; No. 15 rua do Hospicio, 2nd floor.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top">VENDE-SE uma preta de meia + idade,<br /> + que cozinha, lava, e engomma com + perfeição;<br /> + para tratar na rua do Viscande de<br /> + Itaúna n. 12.</td> + + <td valign="top">FOR SALE.—A middle-aged + black woman,<br /> + who is a first-rate cook, washes<br /> + and irons splendidly; for particulars apply<br /> + at No. 12 rua do Viscande de Itaúna + No.<br /> + 12.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top">VENDEM-SE arreios para + carrocinhas<br /> + de pão; na rua do General Camara n.<br /> + 86, placa.</td> + + <td valign="top">FOR SALE.—Harnesses for + small carts<br /> + for delivery of bread; apply at No. 86<br /> + rua do General Camara.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top">VENDEM-SE 20 moleques, de 14 a + 20<br /> + annos, vindos do Maranhão no ultimo<br /> + vapor; na rua da Prainha n. 72.</td> + + <td valign="top">FOR SALE.—20 young blacks + from 14<br /> + to 20 years of age just arrived from Maranham<br /> + by the last steamer; No. 72 rua da<br /> + Prainha.</td> + </tr> + </table> + </div> + + <p>We had many visitors to breakfast to-day, and it was nearly + two o'clock before we could set off for the shore <i>en + route</i> to Tijuca. We drove nearly as far as the Botanical + <span class="pagenum">Page 61<a name="Page_61" + id="Page_61"></a></span>Gardens, where it had been arranged + that horses should meet us; but our party was such a large + one, including children and servants, that some little + difficulty occurred at this point in making a fair start. It + was therefore late before we started, the clouds were + beginning to creep down the sides of the hills, and it had + grown very dusk by the time we reached the Chinisi river. + Soon afterwards the rain began to come down in such tropical + torrents, that our thin summer clothing was soaked through + and through long before we reached the Tijuca. At last, to + our great joy, we saw ahead of us large plantations of + bananas, and then some gas-lights, which exist even in this + remote locality. We followed them for some little distance, + but my horse appeared to have such a very decided opinion as + to the proper direction for us to take, that we finally + decided to let him have his own way, for it was by this time + pitch dark, and none of us had ever been this road before. + As we hoped, the horse knew his own stables, and we soon + arrived at the door of White's hotel, miserable, drenched + objects, looking forward to a complete change of clothing. + Unfortunately the cart with our luggage had not arrived, so + it was in clothes borrowed from kind friends that we at last + sat down, a party of about forty, to a sort of + table-d'hôte dinner, and it continued to pour with + rain during the whole evening, only clearing up just at + bed-time.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, August 29th</i>.—After all the fine + weather we have had lately, it was provoking to find, on + getting up this morning, that the rain still came steadily + down. Daylight enabled us to see what a quaint-looking place + this hotel is. It consists of a series of low wooden detached + buildings, mostly one story high, with verandahs on both sides, + built round a long courtyard, in the centre of which are a + garden and some large trees. It is more like a boarding-house, + however, than an hotel, as there is a fixed daily charge for + visitors, who have to be provided with a letter of + introduction! The situation and gardens are good; it contains + <span class="pagenum">Page 62<a name="Page_62" + id="Page_62"></a></span>among other luxuries a drawing-room, + with a delightful swimming-bath for ladies, and another for + gentlemen. A mountain stream is turned into two large square + reservoirs, where you can disport yourself under the shade + of bananas and palm trees, while orange trees, daturas, + poinsettias, and other plants, in full bloom, drop their + fragrant flowers into the crystal water. There is also a + nice little bathing-house, with a douche outside; and the + general arrangements seem really perfect. The views from the + walks around the hotel and in the forest above are + beautiful, as, indeed, they are from every eminence in the + neighbourhood of Rio.</p> + + <p>During the morning, the weather cleared sufficiently for us + to go down to 'The Boulders,' huge masses of rock, either of + the glacial period, or else thrown out from some mighty volcano + into the valley beneath. Here they form great caverns and + caves, overhung with creepers, and so blocked up at the + entrance, that it is difficult to find the way into them. The + effect of the alternate darkness and light, amid twisted + creepers, some like gigantic snakes, others neatly coiled in + true man-of-war fashion, is very striking and fantastic. Every + crevice is full of ferns and orchids and curious plants, while + moths and butterflies flit about in every direction. Imagine, + if you can, scarlet butterflies gaily spotted, yellow + butterflies with orange edgings, butterflies with dark blue + velvety-looking upper wings, the under surface studded with + bright owl-like peacock eyes, grey Atlas moths, and, crowning + beauty of all, metallic blue butterflies, which are positively + dazzling, even when seen in a shop, dead. Imagine what they + must be like, as they dart hither and thither, reflecting the + bright sunshine from their wings, or enveloped in the sombre + shade of a forest. Most of them measure from two to ten inches + in length from wing to wing, and many others flit about, + equally remarkable for their beauty, though not so large. + Swallow-tails, of various colours, with tails almost as long, + in proportion to their bodies, as those of their feathered + <span class="pagenum">Page 63<a name="Page_63" + id="Page_63"></a></span>namesakes; god-parents and + 'eighty-eights,' with the figures 88 plainly marked on the + reverse side of their rich blue or crimson wings. In fact, + if nature could by any possibility be gaudy, one might + almost say that she is so in this part of the world.</p> + + <p>From 'The Boulders' we went down a kind of natural staircase + in the rock to the small cascade, which, owing to the recent + rains, appeared to the best advantage, the black rocks and + thick vegetation forming a fine background to the sheet of + flowing white water and foam. Our way lay first through some + castor-oil plantations, and then along the side of a stream, + fringed with rare ferns, scarlet begonias, and grey ageratum. + We returned to the hotel, too late for the general luncheon, + and, after a short rest, went out for a gallop in the direction + of the peak of Tijuca, past the large waterfall, the 'Ladies' + Mile,' and 'Grey's View.' The forest is Government property; + the roads are therefore excellent, and are in many places + planted with flowers and shrubs, rare even here. It seems a + waste of money, however; for there is hardly any one to make + use of the wide roads, and the forest would appear quite as + beautiful in its pristine luxuriance. To our eyes the addition + of flowers from other countries is no improvement, though the + feeling is otherwise here. More than once I have had a bouquet + of common stocks given to me as a grand present, while orchids, + gardenias, stephanotis, large purple, pink, and white azaleas, + orange-blossom, and roses, were growing around in unheeded + profusion.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, August 30th</i>.—Once more a wet + morning; but as it cleared towards noon, we ordered horses and + some luncheon, and went up to Pedro Bonito. The ride was + pleasant enough at first, but as we mounted higher and higher, + we got into the clouds and lost the view. Finally, there seemed + nothing for it but to halt near the top, under a grove of + orange-trees, lunch in the pouring rain, and return without + having reached the summit.<span class="pagenum">Page + 64<a name="Page_64" + id="Page_64"></a></span></p> + + <p><i>Friday, September 1st</i>.—At three o'clock this + morning, when I awoke, I saw at last a bright, clear sky, and + at five, finding that there was every prospect of a beautiful + sunrise, we sent for horses, ate our early breakfast, and set + off for the peak of Tijuca. Step by step we climbed, first + through the grounds of the hotel, then through the forest, till + we reached 'The Bamboos,' a favourite halting-place, by the + side of a stream, near which grow, in waving tufts, the + graceful trees which lend their name to the spot. It was very + beautiful in the hill-side forest, with a new prospect opening + out at every step, and set in an ever-varying natural framework + of foliage and flowers. There was not sufficient time to + linger, however, as we would fain have done, in the cool and + shady paths, occasionally illumed by the bright rays of the + sun, shining through the foliage of noble palms, the fronds of + tree-ferns, and the spiral stems of many-coloured creepers.</p> + + <p>Before reaching the top of the peak, there are twenty-nine + wooden and ninety-six stone steps to be ascended, at the foot + of which we tied our horses. An iron chain is hung by the side + to assist you, without which it would be rather giddy work, for + the steps are steep, and there is a sheer precipice on one side + of them. Arrived at the top, the scene was glorious; on every + side mountains beyond mountains stretch far away into the + distance, and one can see as far north as Cape Frio, and + southwards as far as Rio Grande do Sul, while beneath lies the + bay of Rio, with its innumerable islands, islets, and + indentations. All too soon we had to scramble down again, and + mount our horses for a hurried return to the hotel, there being + barely time for lunch and a scramble to the yacht.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, September 4th</i>.—We were all up very + early this morning, superintending the preparations for our + eldest boy's departure for England. The yacht had been gaily + dressed with flags, in honour of the anniversary of the + Emperor's wedding-day; but it must be confessed that + <span class="pagenum">Page 65<a name="Page_65" + id="Page_65"></a></span>our own feelings were hardly in + accordance with these external symbols of joy. Breakfast was + a melancholy meal, and I fear that the visitors from the + 'Volage' were not very well entertained. After breakfast, we + went ashore to the market, to get a couple of lion-monkeys, + which had been kept for us, and which Tab was to take home + with him to present to the Zoological Gardens. At one + o'clock the steam-launch from the 'Volage' came alongside + and embarked the luggage and servants. Half an hour later it + returned for us; then came many tearful farewells to the + crew, and we set off. We knew the parting had to be made, + but this did not lessen our grief: for although it is at all + times hard to say good-bye for a long period to those + nearest and dearest to you, it is especially so in a foreign + land, with the prospect of a long voyage on both sides. + Moreover, it is extremely uncertain when we shall hear of + our boy's safe arrival; not, I fear, until we get to + Valparaiso, and then only by telegram—a long time to + look forward to. Over the next half-hour I had better draw a + veil.</p> + + <p>At two o'clock precisely, just after we had left the + steamer, the starting bell rang, and the 'Cotopaxi' steamed + away. As she passed the yacht, all our flags were dipped and + the guns fired. Then we could see her rolling on the bar, for, + calm as the water was in the bay, there was a heavy swell + outside; and then, all too soon, we lost sight of her, as she + sank,</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span>' ... with all we love, below the + verge.'<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p>We heard to-day that, the Saturday before our first arrival + at Rio, the bar was quite impassable, even for a man-of-war, + and that, although she succeeded the next day, the sea was + extremely rough.</p> + + <p>On our return to the 'Sunbeam,' I went to bed to rest, and + the remainder of the party went ashore. A great many visitors + came on board in the course of the afternoon; some remained to + dine with us. At half-past nine we all went on shore again to a + ball at the Casino, the grand <span class="pagenum">Page + 66<a name="Page_66" + id="Page_66"></a></span>public room in Rio, to which we had + been invited some days ago. It seemed a splendid place, + beautifully decorated in white and gold and crimson, with + frescoes and pictures let into the walls, and surrounded by + galleries. It is capable of containing fifteen hundred + persons, and I believe that there were even more than that + number present on the occasion of the ball given to the Duke + of Edinburgh some years ago. The arrangement of the large + cloakrooms, refreshment-rooms, and passages downstairs, and + the balconies and supper-rooms upstairs, is very convenient. + The ball this evening being comparatively a small affair, + the lower rooms only were used, and proved amply sufficient. + There were not a great many ladies present, but amongst + those we saw some were extremely pretty, and all were + exquisitely dressed in the latest fashions from Paris. The + toilettes of the younger ones looked fresh and simple, while + those of the married ladies displayed considerable richness + and taste; for although Brazilian ladies do not go out much, + and, as a rule, remain <i>en peignoir</i> until late in the + afternoon, they never fail to exhibit great judgment in the + selection of their costumes.</p> + + <p>The floor was excellent, but the band made rather too much + noise, and the dancing was different, both in style and + arrangement, from what we are accustomed to at home.</p> + + <p>The time had now come when we had to say farewell to the + many kind friends whom we have met here, and who have made life + so pleasant to us during the last three weeks, in order that we + might return to the yacht, to complete our preparation for an + early start. The last leave-takings were soon over, and, with + mutually expressed hopes that we might ere long meet some of + our friends in England, Tom and I drove off, in the bright + moonlight, to the quay, where our boat was waiting for us. The + other members of our party found the attractions of the ball so + irresistible that they were unable to tear themselves away + until a much later nour.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_082" + id="Illus_082"></a> <img src="images/t_082.jpg" + width="237" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: The Three Navigators" + title="Illustration: The Three Navigators" /><br /> + <b>The Three Navigators</b><br /> + <a href="images/082.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 67<a name="Page_67" + id="Page_67"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_V" + id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">THE RIVER PLATE.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>Blue, glossy green, and velvet + black</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>They coiled and swam; + and every track</i><br /></span> <span><i>Was a flash + of golden fire</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Tuesday, September 5th</i>.—We got under way at 6 + a.m., and soon bade adieu to Rio, where we have spent so many + happy days, and to our friends on board H.M.S. 'Volage' and + 'Ready,' with whom we interchanged salutes in passing. It was a + dull wet morning, and we could not see much of the beauties we + were leaving behind us. The peak of Tijuca and the summit of + the Corcovado were scarcely visible, and the Sugarloaf and + Gavia looked cold and grey in the early mist. It was not long + before we were rolling on the bar, and then tumbling about in + very uncomfortable fashion in the rough sea outside. One by one + we all disappeared below, where most of us remained + <span class="pagenum">Page 68<a name="Page_68" + id="Page_68"></a></span>during the greater part of the day. + As for me, I went to bed for good at six o'clock in the + evening, but was called up again at ten, to see some large + bonitos playing about the bows of the yacht. It was really + worth the trouble of getting up and climbing quite into the + bows of the vessel to watch them, as they gambolled and + frisked about, brightly illumined by the phosphorescence of + the water, now swimming together steadily in pairs or fours, + now starting in sudden pursuit of one of their number, who + would make an independent rush forward in advance of his + companions.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, September 9th</i>.—The last three days + have been showery, with squalls which have freshened to a gale, + and we are now scudding along, under all storm canvas, followed + by crowds of cape-pigeons and cape-hens, and a few albatrosses. + Towards this evening, however, the wind fell light, and we got + up steam, in order to be prepared for any emergency, as a calm + is frequently succeeded on this coast by a <i>pampero</i>, and + we are now approaching a lee shore.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, September 10th</i>.—Tom has been on deck + nearly all night. The shore is very low and difficult to + distinguish, and the lights are badly kept. If the + lighthouse-keeper happens to have plenty of oil, and is not out + shooting or fishing, he lights his lamp; otherwise, he omits to + perform this rather important part of his duties. The + lighthouses can therefore hardly be said to be of much use. + About 5 a.m. Kindred rushed down into our cabin, and woke Tom, + calling out, 'Land to leeward, sir!' and then rushed up on deck + again. The first glimmer of dawn had enabled him to see that we + were running straight on to the low sandy shore, about three + miles off, a very strong current having set us ten miles out of + our course. The yacht's head was accordingly at once put round, + and steaming seaward we soon left all danger behind. The sun + rose brilliantly, and the weather during the day was very fine. + Morning <span class="pagenum">Page 69<a name="Page_69" + id="Page_69"></a></span>service was impossible, owing to the + necessity for a constant observation of the land; but, after + making the lighthouse on Santa Maria, we had prayers at 4.30 + p.m., with the hymn, 'For those at Sea.' In the night we + made the light on Flores, burning brightly, and before + morning those in the harbour of Monte Video.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, September 11th</i>.—After making the Flores + light we proceeded slowly, and dropped our anchor in the outer + roads of Monte Video at 4 a.m. At seven o'clock we got it up + again, and by eight were anchored close to the shore. We found + that our arrival was expected, and the health-officers' boat + was soon alongside. Next came an officer from the United + States' man-of-war 'Frolic,' with polite messages and offers of + service; and then a steam-launch belonging to the Pacific + Company, and another from the Consul, Major Monro, with piles + of letters and newspapers for us.</p> + + <p>Monte Video, as seen from the water, is not an + imposing-looking place. On the opposite side of the entrance to + the harbour rises a hill, called the Cerro, 450 feet high, from + which the town derives its name, and further inland, on the + town side, is another eminence, 200 feet high, called the + Cerrito. With these exceptions the surrounding country looks + perfectly flat, without even a tree to break the monotony.</p> + + <p>Soon after breakfast we went ashore—in more senses of + the word than one; for they have commenced to build a mole for + the protection of small vessels, which, in its unfinished + state, is not yet visible above the water. The consequence was + that, at a distance of about half a mile from the + landing-steps, we rowed straight on to the submerged stonework, + but fortunately got off again very quickly, without having + sustained any damage. On landing, we found ourselves opposite + the Custom House, a fine building, with which we afterwards + made a closer acquaintance.<span class="pagenum">Page + 70<a name="Page_70" + id="Page_70"></a></span></p> + + <p>There is a large and very good hotel here, l'Hôtel + Oriental. It is a handsome building outside, and the interior + is full of marble courts, stone corridors, and lofty rooms, + deliciously cool in the hottest weather. Having procured a + carriage, Tom and I and the children drove through the streets, + which are wide and handsome, though badly paved, and so full of + holes that it is a wonder how the springs of a carriage can + last a week. The houses seem built chiefly in the Italian style + of architecture, with fine stucco fronts, and in many cases + marble floors and facings, while the courtyards, seen through + the grilles, blazed with flowers. All the lower windows were + strongly barred, a precaution by no means unnecessary against + the effects of the revolutions, which are of such frequent + occurrence in this country. To enable the inhabitants the + better to enjoy the sea-breeze, the tops of the houses are all + flat, which gives the town, from a distance, somewhat of an + eastern appearance. There are a great many Italian immigrants + here, and most of the building and plastering work is done by + them.</p> + + <p>The Paseo del Molino is the best part of the town, where all + the rich merchants reside in quintas, surrounded by pretty + gardens. They are very fantastic in their ideas of + architectural style, and appear to bestow their patronage + impartially, not to say indiscriminately, upon Gothic + cathedrals, Alhambra palaces, Swiss cottages, Italian villas, + and Turkish mosques. Except for this variety, the suburb has + somewhat the appearance of the outskirts of many of the towns + on the Riviera, with the same sub-tropical surroundings. These + are, however, hard times on the River Plate, and more than half + the quintas are deserted and falling into ruins. On our way + back, by the Union Road, we met a great many of the native + bullock-carts going home from market. These huge conveyances + are covered with hides, and are drawn by teams of from two to + twelve bullocks, yoked in pairs, and driven + <span class="pagenum">Page 71<a name="Page_71" + id="Page_71"></a></span> by a man on horseback, who carries + a sharp-pointed goad, with which he prods the animals all + round, at intervals. Dressed in a full white linen shirt and + trousers, with his bright poncho and curious saddle-gear, he + forms no unimportant figure in the picturesque scene. In the + large market-place there are hundreds of these carts, with + their owners encamped around them.</p> + + <p>When we at last arrived on board the yacht again, at three + o'clock, we found that the miseries of coaling were not yet + over, and that there had been numerous visitors from the shore. + Everything on deck looked black, while below all was pitch dark + and airless, every opening and crevice having been closed and + covered with tarpaulin, to keep out the coal dust. It took + seven hours to complete the work, instead of two, as was hoped + and promised, so our chance of starting to-day is over. This + seemed the more disappointing, because, had we foreseen the + delay, we might have made other arrangements for seeing more on + shore.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, September 12th</i>.—The anchor was up, and + we were already beginning to steam away when I came on deck + this morning, just in time to see the first faint streaks of + dawn appearing in the grey sky. The River Plate here is over a + hundred miles wide, and its banks are very flat; so there was + nothing to be seen, except the two little hills of Cerro and + Cerrito and the town of Monte Video, fast vanishing in the + distance. The channels are badly buoyed, and there are shoals + and wrecks on all sides. The lightships are simply old hulks, + with no special marks by which to distinguish them; and as they + themselves look exactly like wrecks, they are not of much + assistance in the navigation, which is very confusing, and + sometimes perilous. Once we very nearly ran aground, but + discovered just in time that the vessel we were steering for + with confidence was only a wreck, on a dangerous shoal, and + that the lightship itself was further ahead. The yacht was + immediately put about, and we just skirted the bank in turning. + <span class="pagenum">Page 72<a name="Page_72" + id="Page_72"></a></span></p> + + <p>The weather improved during the day, and a fine sunset was + followed by a clear starlight night. At 10.30 p.m. we dropped + our anchor outside all the other vessels in the roads at Buenos + Ayres, eight miles from the shore. The lightship only carried + an ordinary riding light, like any other vessel, so that it was + almost impossible, unless you knew the port very well, to go in + closer to the land at night.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, September 13th</i>.—Daylight did not + enable us to distinguish the town, for the river here is wide + and the banks are low, and we were lying a long way from the + shore, outside a great many fine-looking ships, at anchor in + the roads. About nine o'clock a German captain, in a large + whale-boat, came alongside and told us we were nearly eight + miles from Buenos Ayres. Tom arranged with him to take us + ashore; and accordingly we soon started. The water was smooth + and there was a nice breeze, and we sailed gallantly along for + about two hours, until we reached the town. After anchoring, we + transshipped ourselves into a small boat, in which we were + rowed to some steps, at the end of the long rickety mole, where + we landed. Some of the planks of the pier were missing, leaving + great holes, big enough to fall through, and others were so + loose that when you stepped upon one end of them the other flew + up almost into your face.</p> + + <p>Our first business was to secure the services of a pilot, to + take us up to Rosario. The best man on the river was sent for; + but when he came he did not recommend our undertaking the + voyage, as the water is very low at present, and we might get + stuck on a sandbank, and be detained for some days, although no + further harm would be likely to occur to us. We decided, + therefore, as our time is precious, to give up the idea of + making the expedition in the yacht, and to go in the ordinary + river-boat instead.</p> + + <p>Under the guidance of some gentlemen, we then went to the + Central Railway Station to send off some telegrams, + <span class="pagenum">Page 73<a name="Page_73" + id="Page_73"></a></span>and thence to the River Plate Bank. + The treasury contains 600,000<i>l</i>. in British + sovereigns, locked up in three strong safes, besides + paper-money and securities to the amount of + 2,000,000<i>l</i>. It was the Rosario branch of this bank + which was recently robbed of 15,000<i>l</i>. by an armed + government force; an unprecedented proceeding in the history + of nations, and one that might have led to the interference + of foreign powers.</p> + + <p>There was time afterwards to go round and see something of + the city, which, like many other South American towns, is built + in square blocks, all the streets running exactly at right + angles one to another. There is a fine plaza, or grand square, + in which are situated the cathedral, theatre, &c., the + centre being occupied by a garden, containing statues and + fountains. The various banks, with their marble facings, + Corinthian columns, and splendid halls, are magnificent + buildings, and look more like palaces than places of business. + Some of the private houses, too, seem very handsome. Outside + they are all faced with marble, to a certain height from the + ground, the interior, consisting of courtyard within courtyard, + being rather like that of a Pompeian house.</p> + + <p>We next went to the agricultural show, which, though not an + imposing affair to our eyes, appeared really very creditable to + those who had organised it. The horses and cattle looked small, + but there were some good specimens of sheep—specially the + <i>rombonellis</i> and <i>negrettis</i>, whose long fine wool + was, however, only to be discovered by first turning aside a + thick plaster of mud, beneath which it was concealed. We saw + also some curious animals, natives of the country, such as + vicuñas, llamas, bizcachas, and various kinds of deer, a + very mixed lot of poultry and dogs, and two magnificent Persian + cats. Another department of the show was allotted to the + commercial products of the country, animal, vegetable, and + mineral; the whole forming a very interesting collection. + <span class="pagenum">Page 74<a name="Page_74" + id="Page_74"></a></span></p> + + <p>In re-embarking, the disagreeable process of this morning + had to be repeated—rickety pier, rotten steps, and small + boat included—before we reached the whale-boat, after + which we had an eight miles' sail out to the yacht. It was a + cold, dull night, and getting on board proved rather difficult + work, owing to the rough sea.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, September 14th</i>.—The pilot came on + board at seven o'clock to take us in nearer the shore, but, + after all, we found ourselves obliged to anchor again five + miles off. No ship drawing more than ten feet can get inside + the sand-banks, which makes it a wretched place to lie in, + especially as the weather at this time of year is very + uncertain. You may go ashore from your ship on a fine clear + morning, and before you return a gale may have sprung up, + accompanied by a frightful sea. Open boats are therefore quite + unsafe, a state of things which has given rise to the existence + of a class of fine boats, specially built for the service, + which attend all the ships lying in the roads. They are + half-decked, will sail in any weather, and can be easily + managed by two men.</p> + + <p>About ten o'clock we went ashore again in the whale-boat, + which Tom had engaged to wait on us during our stay, and made + the best of our way to a warehouse to look at some ponchos, + which are the speciality of this part of South America. + Everybody wears one, from the beggar to the highest official. + The best kind of ponchos are very expensive, being made from a + particular part of the finest hair of the vicuña, + hand-woven by women, in the province of Catamarca. The genuine + article is difficult to get, even here. In the shops the price + usually varies from 30<i>l</i>. to 80<i>l</i>.; but we were + shown some at a rather lower price—from 20<i>l</i>. to + 60<i>l</i>. each. They are soft as silk, perfectly waterproof, + and will wear, it is said, for ever. We met a fine-looking man + in one of beautiful quality yesterday. He told us that it + originally cost 30<i>l</i>. in Catamarca, twenty years ago, and + that he gave 20<i>l</i>. for it, second-hand, ten + <span class="pagenum">Page 75<a name="Page_75" + id="Page_75"></a></span>years ago; and, with the exception + of a few slight tears, it is now as good as ever. Before we + came here, we were strongly advised, in case we should + happen to go on a rough expedition up country, not to be + tempted to take with us any <i>good</i> ponchos, as the + Gauchos, or half-bred Indians of the Pampas, who are great + connoisseurs of these articles, and can distinguish their + quality at a glance, would not hesitate to cut our throats + in order to obtain possession of them.</p> + + <p>The material of which they are made is of the closest + texture, and as the hair has never been dressed or dyed it + retains all its natural oil and original colour, the latter + varying from a very pretty yellow fawn to a pale cream-colour. + The majority of the ponchos worn here are, however, made at + Manchester, of a cheap and inferior material. They look exactly + like the real thing at first sight, but are neither so light + nor so warm, nor do they wear at all well. Occasionally they + are made of silk, but more often of bright-coloured wool. In + shape a poncho is simply a square shawl with a hole in the + middle for the head of the wearer. On horseback the appearance + is particularly picturesque, and it forms also a convenient + cloak, which comes well over the saddle, before and behind, and + leaves the arms, though covered, perfectly free.</p> + + <p>The natives, as a rule, wear a second poncho, generally of a + different colour, tucked into the waistband of their long full + linen drawers (<i>calzoncillos</i>), so as to make a pair of + short baggy over-trousers. A poor man is content with a shirt, + drawers, and two ponchos. A rich man has many rows of fringe + and frills of lace at the bottom of his <i>calzoncillos</i>, + and wears a short coat, with silver buttons, and a gorgeous + silver belt, covered with dollars. His horse-fittings and + massive stirrups (to say nothing of his enormous spurs) will be + of solid silver, and his arms inlaid with the same metal. He + will sometimes give as much as from 10<i>l</i>. to 20<i>l</i>. + for a pair of stirrups alone, and the rest of his dress + <span class="pagenum">Page 76<a name="Page_76" + id="Page_76"></a></span>and equipment is proportionately + expensive. The cost of the silver articles is little more + than the value of the metal itself, which is of very pure + quality, and is only roughly worked by the Indians or + Gauchos. But as Manchester provides the ponchos, so does + Birmingham the saddlery and fittings, especially those in + use in the neighbourhood of towns.</p> + + <p>After inspecting the ponchos, we breakfasted with some + friends, and about noon started in the train for Campana. The + line passes at first through the streets of Buenos Ayres, and + thence into the open country, beautifully green, and undulating + like the waves of the sea. Near the town and the suburb of + Belgrano are a great many peach-tree plantations, the fruit of + which is used for fattening pigs while the wood serves for + roasting them. There is also some scrubby brushwood, and a few + large native trees; but these are soon left behind, and are + succeeded by far-spreading rich pasture land, and occasional + lagunes.</p> + + <p>We saw for the first time the holes of the bizcachas, or + prairie-dogs, outside which the little prairie-owls keep guard. + There appeared to be always one, and generally two, of these + birds, standing, like sentinels, at the entrance to each hole, + with their wise-looking heads on one side, pictures of prudence + and watchfulness. The bird and the beast are great friends, and + are seldom to be found apart. We also passed several enormous + flocks of sheep and herds of cattle, most of them quite + unattended, though some were being driven by men on horseback. + There were quantities of plovers, and a great many partridges, + of two kinds, large and small, and the numerous lagunes were + covered with and surrounded by water-fowl of all + kinds—wild swans and ducks, snipe, white storks, grey + herons, black cormorants, and scarlet flamingoes, the + last-named standing at the edge of the water, catching fish, + and occasionally diving below the surface. On the very top of + some of the telegraph-posts were the nests of the oven-bird, + <span class="pagenum">Page 77<a name="Page_77" + id="Page_77"></a></span>looking like carved round blocks of + wood, placed there for ornament. These nests are made of + mud, and are perfectly spherical in form, the interior being + divided into two quite distinct chambers.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_092" + id="Illus_092"></a> <img src="images/t_092.jpg" + width="240" + height="141" + alt="IIllustration: Prairie Dogs and Owls" + title="Illustration: Prairie Dogs and Owls" /><br /> + <b>Prairie Dogs and Owls</b><br /> + <a href="images/092.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>Campana was reached by four o'clock, the train running + straight on to the pier, alongside of which the two vessels + were lying, with steam up. Passengers, baggage, and freight + were immediately transferred from the train to the boats; and + we soon found ourselves steaming along in the 'Uruguay,' + between the willow-hung banks of the broad Parana. The country, + though otherwise flat and uninteresting, looks very pretty just + now, in its new spring coat of bright green.</p> + + <p>We passed several small towns, amongst others, San Pedro and + San Nicolas, which are quite important-looking places, with a + good deal of shipping, and occasionally stopped to pick up + passengers, who had come in boats and steam-launches from + far-distant villages, situated on lagunes, which our steamer + could not enter.</p> + + <p>Just before arriving at each stopping-place, we had a race + with the 'Proveedor,' and whenever she became visible at a bend + in the river, half a ton more coal was immediately heaped on to + our fires by the captain's order—a piece of + <span class="pagenum">Page 78<a name="Page_78" + id="Page_78"></a></span>reckless extravagance, for, do what + they would, they could not make us gain five minutes. The + competition is, however, very fierce, and I suppose the two + companies will not be satisfied until they have ruined one + another; whereas, if each would run a steamer on alternate + days, they and the public would be equally benefited. The + fares are exceedingly reasonable, being less than 3<i>l</i>. + for the whole journey from Buenos Ayres to Rosario, + including all charges.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, September 15th</i>.—A violent storm of + thunder and lightning, apparently just above our heads, woke us + at six o'clock this morning. Torrents of rain followed, and + continued to fall until we dropped our anchor at Rosario, at + 8.45 a.m., just as we were in the middle of breakfast, in our + cozy little stern cabin. Half an hour later we landed, though + the rain still came down in sheets, but the steamer was now + alongside the pier, and close carriages had been provided. A + few minutes' drive through ill-paved streets brought us to the + Hotel Universel, a handsome, spacious building, with marble + courtyards, full of trees, plants, and flowers, into which all + the sitting-rooms open. Above are galleries, round which the + various bed-rooms are in like manner ranged. It all looked nice + and cool, and suitable for hot weather, but it was certainly + rather draughty and cheerless on such a cold, pouring wet day, + and all our efforts to make our large room, in which there were + four immense windows, at all comfortable, were vain.</p> + + <p>Rosario, like Buenos Ayres, is built in squares. The streets + are generally well paved with black and white marble, but the + roadways are composed of little round stones, and are full of + holes and inequalities, so that, in crossing the road after + heavy rain, one steps from the <i>trottoir</i> into a very + slough of despond. The universal tramway runs down the centre + of every street.</p> + + <p>After luncheon we made a fresh start for Carcaraña by + a special train, to which were attached two goods-vans, full of + horses, and a carriage truck, containing a most + <span class="pagenum">Page 79<a name="Page_79" + id="Page_79"></a></span>comfortable American carriage, in + shape not unlike a Victoria, only much lighter and with very + high wheels. After a short journey through a rich, flat, + grass country, we arrived at Roldan, the first colony of the + Central Argentine Land Company. Here we all alighted, the + horses were taken out of the vans, saddled, bridled, and + harnessed, and the gentlemen rode and I drove round the + colony, along what are generally roads, but to-day were + sheets of water. We saw many colonists, of every grade, from + those still occupying the one-roomed wooden cottages, + originally supplied by the Land Company, standing in the + midst of ill-cultivated fields, to those who had built for + themselves good houses in the town, or nice cottages, with + pretty gardens, surrounded by well-tilled lands.</p> + + <p>The drive ended at the mill belonging to a retired officer + of the British army, who has settled here with his wife and two + dear little children. Here we had tea and a pleasant chat, and + then returned to the train and proceeded to Carcaraña, + the next station on the line. Now, however, instead of the rich + pasture lands and flourishing crops which we had hitherto seen + on all sides, our road lay through a desolate-looking district, + bearing too evident signs of the destructive power of the + locust. People travelling with us tell us that, less than a + week ago, the pasture here was as fresh and green as could be + desired, and the various crops were a foot high; but that, in + the short space of a few hours, the care and industry of the + last ten months were rendered utterly vain and useless, and the + poor colonists found their verdant fields converted into a + barren waste by these rapacious insects.</p> + + <p>Carcaraña may be called the Richmond—one might + almost say the Brighton—of Rosario. It stands on a river, + the Carcarañal, to the banks of which an omnibus runs + twice a day from the railway-station, during the season, to + take people to bathe. Near the station is also an excellent + little hotel, containing a large dining-room and a few + bed-rooms, <span class="pagenum">Page 80<a name="Page_80" + id="Page_80"></a></span>kept by two Frenchwomen; and here + the Rosarians come out by train to dine and enjoy the fresh + air. It was quite dark by the time we arrived, so that we + could not see much of the flourishing little colony which + has been formed here. We therefore paddled across the wet + road to the inn, where, despite the somewhat rough + surroundings, we enjoyed a capital dinner, cooked in the + true French style. They are specially celebrated here for + their asparagus, but the locusts had devoured all but a very + few stalks, besides which they were held responsible, on the + present occasion, for the absence of other vegetables and + salad. Yesterday there was a grand wedding-party near here, + the complete success of which was, we were told, somewhat + marred by the fact, that for six hours, in the very middle + of the day, it became absolutely necessary to light candles, + owing to the dense clouds of locusts, about a league in + extent, by which the air was darkened. Trains are even + stopped by these insects occasionally; for they appear to + like a hard road, and when they get on the line their bodies + make the rails so greasy that the wheels of the engines will + not bite. Moreover, they completely obscure the lights and + signals, so that the men are afraid to proceed. The only + remedy, therefore, is to go very slowly, preceded by a + truck-load of sand, which is scattered freely over the rails + in front of the engine. Horses will not always face a cloud + of locusts, even to get to their stables, but turn round and + stand doggedly still, until it has passed.</p> + + <p>After dinner we once more stepped into our special train, in + which we arrived at Rosario at about half-past nine o'clock, + thoroughly tired out.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 81<a name="Page_81" + id="Page_81"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_VI" + id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">LIFE ON THE PAMPAS.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>There's tempest in yon horned + moon</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>And lightning in yon + cloud</i>;<br /></span> <span><i>But hark the music, + mariners</i>!<br /></span> <span><i>The wind is piping + loud</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Saturday, September 16th</i>.—Waking at half-past + five, we busied ourselves until nine o'clock, when we again + started in a special train for Carcaraña. After a short + stop at Roldan, it was reached two hours later, and breakfast + was followed by a long ride through the Land Company's colony, + and from thence to Candelaria, a purely Spanish settlement.</p> + + <p>I freely confess that I had hardly believed all the stories + they told me last night about the terrible doings of the + locusts, and thought they must have been slightly exaggerated. + It all seemed too dreadful to be true—as if one of the + plagues of Egypt had been revived by the wand of an evil + magician. In this somewhat incredulous mood I rashly said that, + although I was very sorry to hear of the visit of these + destructive creatures, as they <i>were</i> unfortunately here, + I should like to see them. My wish was shortly to be gratified; + for, in the course of our ride, we saw in the distant sky what + looked very much like a heavy purple thunder-cloud, but which + the experienced pronounced to be a swarm of locusts. It seemed + impossible; but as we proceeded they met us, first singly, and + then in gradually increasing numbers, until each step became + positively painful, owing to the smart blows we received from + them on <span class="pagenum">Page 82<a name="Page_82" + id="Page_82"></a></span>our heads, faces, and hands. We + stopped for a time at Mr. Holt's large estancia, where, + notwithstanding the general appearance of prosperity, the + traces of the ravages of the locusts were only too visible. + On remounting, to proceed on our journey, we found that the + cloud had approached much nearer, the effect produced by its + varying position being most extraordinary. As the locusts + passed between us and the sun they completely obscured the + light; a little later, with the sun's rays shining directly + on their wings, they looked like a golden cloud, such as one + sometimes sees in the transformation scene of a pantomime; + and, at a greater distance, when viewed from the top of a + slight eminence, they looked like a snow-storm, or a field + of snow-white marguerites, which had suddenly taken to + themselves wings. When on the ground, with their wings + closed, they formed a close mass of little brown specks, + completely hiding the ground and crops, both grass and + grain. In riding over them, though not a quarter of their + number could rise, for want of space in which to spread + their wings, they formed such a dense cloud that we could + see nothing else, and the horses strongly objected to face + them. They got into one's hair and clothes, and gave one the + creeps all over. I am sure I shall often dream of them for + some time to come, and I have quite made up my mind that I + never wish to see another locust as long as I live. I have, + however, secured some fine specimens for any one who is + curious about them.</p> + + <p>The land we passed through appeared to be well farmed. We + spoke to several of the colonists, especially to one Italian + family, living in a little mud rancho with a tile roof. They + were all gathered together to witness the dying agonies of one + of their best cows, perishing from the effects of the drought. + The rest of the animals in the corral looked, I am sorry to + say, thin and miserable, and as if they intended soon to follow + their companion's example. The poor people, nevertheless, + seemed very cheery and contented, <span class="pagenum">Page + 83<a name="Page_83" + id="Page_83"></a></span>and hospitably gave us each a drink + of some remarkably muddy water.</p> + + <p>After a thirty-mile ride under a hot sun, fortunately on the + easiest of horses, we were none of us sorry to stop for a short + time at Carcaraña, and obtain some refreshment, before + proceeding—horses, carriage, and all—by train to + Rosario, another colony on the line. Arrived at the latter + place, I thought I had had enough riding for the first day, and + therefore visited the various farms and houses in the carriage, + the rest of the party going, as before, on horseback. After a + round of about fifteen miles, we returned to the station, where + we were kindly received by the sister of the station-master. An + excellent dinner was provided for us in the refreshment-room, + before we entered our special train, and Rosario was reached at + about ten o'clock.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, September 17th</i>.—A kind friend sent his + carriage to take us to the English church, a brick building, + built to replace the small iron church that existed here + previously, and only opened last month. The service was well + performed, and the singing of the choir excellent. We paid a + visit to the Sunday schools after luncheon, and then drove to + the quinta of Baron Alvear. The road lies through the town, + past the race-course, crowded with Gauchos, getting up scratch + races amongst themselves, and on, over undulating plains and + water-courses, into the open country. Sometimes there was a + track, sometimes none. In some places the pastures were + luxuriantly green; in others the ground was carpeted with + white, lilac, and scarlet verbena, just coming into + bloom—for it is still early spring here. Here and there + came a bare patch, completely cleared by the locusts, who had + also stripped many of the fine timber trees in the garden of + the quinta. On the gate-posts, at the entrance, were the nests + of two oven-birds, like those we had already seen on the + telegraph-posts, so exactly spherical as to look like + ornaments. In one of the shrubberies a fine jaguar was shut up + in a cage, who <span class="pagenum">Page 84<a name="Page_84" + id="Page_84"></a></span>looked very like a tiger. Though he + had evidently just had his dinner, he was watching with + greedy interest the proceedings of some natives in charge of + a horse—an animal which he esteems a great delicacy, + when procurable.</p> + + <p>On our way across the camp we saw a great quantity of the + seeds of the Martynia proboscidea, mouse-burrs as they call + them,—devil's claws or toe-nails: they are + curious-looking things, as the annexed woodcut will show.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_099" + id="Illus_099"></a> <img src="images/t_099.jpg" + width="240" + height="235" + alt="Illustration: Devils Horns" + title="Illustration: Devils Horns" /><br /> + <b>Devils Horns</b><br /> + <a href="images/099.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>Frank Buckland has a theory—and very likely a correct + one—that they are created in this peculiar form for the + express purpose of attaching themselves to the long tails of + the wild horses that roam about the country in troops of + hundreds. They carry them thousands of miles, and disseminate + the seed wherever they go at large in search of food and + water.</p> + + <p>When we returned to Rosario we noticed a great crowd still + on the race-course, and were just in time to see the finish of + one race, ridden barebacked, and for a very short distance. All + the races are short; and as the natives are always engaging in + these little contests of speed, the horses get into the habit + of extending themselves directly you put them out of a walk. + But the least touch is sufficient to stop them immediately, and + I never saw horses better broken than they are here. The most + fearful bits are used for the purpose; but when once this is + accomplished, the mere inclination of the body, or the + slightest pressure of the finger upon the bridle, is sufficient + to guide them. They will maintain, for almost any length of + time, a quick canter—what they call here 'a little + gallop'—at the rate of three <span class="pagenum">Page + 85<a name="Page_85" + id="Page_85"></a></span>leagues (ten miles) an hour, without + showing the slightest sign of fatigue. They don't like being + mounted, and always fidget a little then, but are quite + quiet directly you are in the saddle. I rode several horses + which had never carried a lady before; but after the first + few minutes they did not seem to mind the riding-habit in + the least. They evidently dislike standing still, unless you + dismount and throw the rein on the ground, when they will + remain stationary for hours.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, September 18th</i>.—The early part of this + morning was spent in much the same way as on Saturday, Tom + going as before to the Land Company's Office, whilst I remained + at home to write.</p> + + <p>At nine o'clock we proceeded to the station, and started in + our comfortable railway carriage for Tortugas. We formed quite + a large party altogether, and the journey over the now familiar + line, past Roldan, Carcaraña, and Cañada de + Gomez, was a very pleasant one. At Tortugas we left the train, + and paid a visit to one of the overseers of the colony and his + cheery little French wife, who, we found, had been expecting us + all day on Saturday. A few weeks ago this lady's sister was + carried off by Indians, with some other women and children. + After riding many leagues, she seized her opportunity, pushed + the Indian who was carrying her off his horse, turned the + animal's head round, and galloped back across the plain, hotly + pursued, until within a mile or two of the colony, by the rest + of the band. It was a plucky thing for a little bit of a woman + to attempt with a great powerful savage, and she is deservedly + looked upon in the village as quite a heroine.</p> + + <p>The journey between Rosario and Cordova occupies twelve + hours by the ordinary train; and as Frayle Muerto is exactly + half-way between the two places, the trains going in either + direction commence their journey at the same hours (6 a.m. and + 6 p.m.), by which means the passengers meet each other here in + time to breakfast and dine <span class="pagenum">Page + 86<a name="Page_86" + id="Page_86"></a></span>together. There is a fine bridge + over the river near Frayle Muerto, but the place is + principally celebrated as having been the site of the + Henleyite colony, which caused disappointment to so many + young men of family, who were induced to come out here from + England and to go up country, with no other result than the + loss of all their money. The scheme was supposed to be + perfect in all its details, but proved upon a closer + acquaintance to be utterly worthless. The iron church at + Rosario is still standing, which the members of the + expedition took up there, and we have also met some of the + young men themselves at various times.</p> + + <p>The train did not reach Cordova until 7.30 p.m., and it was + therefore too late for us to see much of the approach to the + city, but to-morrow we intend to do a good deal in that way. In + the middle of the night we were aroused by a violent + thunderstorm. The lightning was most vivid, and illuminated our + room with many colours. The rain fell heavily, flooding + everything, and making the streets look like rivers, and the + courtyard of the hotel like a lake. It is one of the oldest, + and, at the same time, one of the most unhealthy, of the cities + of South America, for it is built in the hollow of the + surrounding hills, where no refreshing breezes can + penetrate.</p> + + <p>Travelling in Brazil is like passing through a vast + hothouse, filled with gorgeous tropical vegetation and forms of + insect life. In the neighbourhood of Monte Video you might + imagine yourself in a perpetual greenhouse. Here it is like + being in a vast garden, in which the greenest of turf, the + brightest of bedding-out plants, and the most fragrant + flowering shrubs abound. Each country, therefore, possesses its + own particular beauty, equally attractive in its way.</p> + + <p>Shortly after leaving Cordova we passed through an Indian + village; but, except at this point, we did not meet many + natives during our ride. One poor woman, however, + <span class="pagenum">Page 87<a name="Page_87" + id="Page_87"></a></span>whom we did unfortunately encounter, + had a fall from her horse, owing to the animal being + frightened at the umbrella I carried, yet my own horse had, + after a very brief objection, quietly submitted to the + introduction of this novelty into the equipment of his + rider.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_102" + id="Illus_102"></a> <img src="images/t_102.jpg" + width="240" + height="177" + alt="Illustration: La Calera" + title="Illustration: La Calera" /><br /> + <b>La Calera</b><br /> + <a href="images/102.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>We found that the hotel on the Caldera for which we were + bound was shut up; but one of the party had the keys, and an + excellent lunch quickly made its appearance. The view from the + verandah, over the river, to the Sierras beyond, was very fine. + It had become quite hot by this time, and I was much interested + in seeing all our horses taken down to the water to bathe. They + appeared to be perfectly familiar with the process; and, the + river being shallow, they picked out all the nice holes between + the boulders, where they could lie down and be completely + covered by the water. Just as we were starting to return, black + clouds gathered from all around; the lightning flashed, the + thunder muttered, and big drops began to fall. + <span class="pagenum">Page 88<a name="Page_88" + id="Page_88"></a></span>But the storm was not of long + duration, and we escaped the worst part of it, though we had + ample evidence of its severity during our homeward ride, in + the slippery ground, the washed-away paths, and the swollen + ditches. We stopped half-way to see the drowning out of some + poor little bizcachas from their holes. The water had been + turned into their dwellings by means of trenches, and as the + occupants endeavoured to make their escape at the other end + they were pounced upon by men and dogs; the prairie-owls + meanwhile hovering disconsolately overhead. Two of the + gentlemen of our party each managed to purchase a living + bizcacha, which was then wrapped up in a handkerchief and + conveyed home. When young they are pretty little creatures, + and are easily tamed.</p> + + <p>It was late when we reached Cordova; but I was anxious to + visit the Observatory before our departure, as it is one of the + best, though not by any means the largest, in the world. + Professor Gould, the astronomer, is away just at present, but + we were kindly received by Mrs. Gould, who conducted us over + the building. They have a fine collection of various + instruments and some wonderful photographs of the principal + stars—Saturn, with his ring and eight moons, Jupiter, + with his four moons, Venus, Mercury, &c. If we could have + stayed longer we might have seen much more; but it was now + quite dark, and we had only just time for a short visit to the + observing room itself. Our ride down to the city in the dark + would have been exceedingly risky if our horses had been less + sure-footed, for the roads had been washed away in many places, + but we reached the bottom of the Observatory hill in safety, + and shortly afterwards arrived at the hotel just in time for + dinner.</p> + + <p>After dinner we drove to the station, where we found all our + own party assembled, and many more people, who had come to see + us off. I was given the Chilian bit used for the horse I rode + to-day, as a remembrance of my visit. It + <span class="pagenum">Page 89<a name="Page_89" + id="Page_89"></a></span>is a most formidable-looking + instrument of torture, and one which I am sure my dear + little steed did not in the least require; but I suppose the + fact of having once felt it, when being broken in, is + sufficient for a lifetime, for the horses here have + certainly the very lightest mouths I ever met with. A gift + of a young puma, or small lion, was also waiting for me. It + is about four months old, and very tame; but, considering + the children, I think it will be more prudent to pass it on + to the Zoo, in London.</p> + + <p>The train started at 8.30 p.m. and took an hour to reach Rio + Segundo, where we found tea and coffee prepared. After that we + proceeded to make our arrangements for the night; some of the + gentlemen sleeping in the saloon-carriages, and some on beds + made up in the luggage-van. Tom and I turned into our two cozy + little berths, and knew nothing more until we were called at + 4.30 a.m. at Cañada de Gomez. The lamp had gone out, and + we found it rather difficult work dressing and packing in the + cold and dark; but it was soon done, and a cup of hot coffee in + the refreshment-room afterwards made us feel quite + comfortable.</p> + + <p>Then we all separated: Captain Dunlop to join his ship; Tom + to complete his report on the colonies of the Central Argentine + Land Company, which he is preparing in compliance with the + request of the Directors in London; while the rest of the party + awaited the arrival of the waggonette which was to take us to + the estancia of Las Rosas.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, September 20th</i>.—At 6.30 a.m. the + waggonette arrived, a light but strong, unpainted vehicle, + drawn by a pair of active little well-bred horses, both of whom + had been raced in their day. There were but a few leagues of + cultivated ground to be passed before we reached the broad, + undulating, solitary Pampas, where for some time the only + visible signs of life were to be found in the Teru-tero birds + (a sort of plover), who shrieked <span class="pagenum">Page + 90<a name="Page_90" + id="Page_90"></a></span>discordantly as we disturbed their + repose; the partridges, large and small, put up by the + retriever who accompanied us; some prairie fowls; a great + many hawks, of all sizes; and the pretty little wydah-birds, + with their two immense tail feathers, four times the length + of their bodies. The first glimpse of the far-spreading + prairie was most striking in all its variations of colour. + The true shade of the Pampas grass, when long, is a light + dusty green; when short it is a bright fresh green. But it + frequently happens that, owing to the numerous + prairie-fires, either accidental or intentional, nothing is + to be seen but a vast expanse of black charred ground, here + and there relieved by a few patches of vivid green, where + the grass is once more springing up under the influence of + the rain.</p> + + <p>The road, or rather track, was in a bad condition, owing to + the recent wet weather, and on each side of the five + <i>cañadas</i>, or small rivers, which we had to ford, + there were deep morasses, through which we had to struggle as + best we could, with the mud up to our axletrees. Just before + arriving at the point where the stream had to be crossed, the + horses were well flogged and urged on at a gallop, which they + gallantly maintained until the other side was reached. Then we + stopped to breathe the horses and to repair damages, generally + finding that a trace had given way, or that some other part of + the harness had shown signs of weakness. On one occasion we + were delayed for a considerable time by the breaking of the + splinter-bar, to repair which was a troublesome matter; indeed, + I don't know how we should have managed it if we had not met a + native lad, who sold us his long lasso to bind the pieces + together again. It was a lucky <i>rencontre</i> for us, as he + was the only human being we saw during the whole of our drive + of thirty miles, except the peon who brought us a change of + horses, half-way.</p> + + <p>In the course of the journey we passed a large estancia, the + road to which was marked by the dead bodies and + <span class="pagenum">Page 91<a name="Page_91" + id="Page_91"></a></span>skeletons of the poor beasts who had + perished in the late droughts. Hundreds of them were lying + about in every stage of decay, those more recently dead + being surrounded by vultures and other carrion-birds. The + next <i>cañada</i> that we crossed was choked up with + the carcases of the unfortunate creatures who had struggled + thus far for a last drink, and had then not had sufficient + strength left to extricate themselves from the water. Herds + of miserable-looking, half-starved cattle were also to be + seen, the cows very little larger than their calves, and all + apparently covered with the same rough shaggy coats. The + pasture is not fine enough in this part of the country to + carry sheep, but deer are frequently met with.</p> + + <p>A little later we again began to approach cultivated land, + and a mile or two further brought us to a broad road, with high + palings on either side, down which we drove, and through the + yard, to the door of the estancia. The house is a one-story + building, one room wide, with a verandah in front and at the + back, one side of which faces the yard, the other a well-kept + garden, full of violets and other spring flowers, and roses + just coming into bloom. There are several smaller detached + buildings, in which the sleeping apartments are situated, and + which are also provided with verandahs and barred windows. + Having visited the various rooms, in company with our hosts, we + sat down to a rough but substantial breakfast, to which full + justice was done. Travelling all night, and a ride of thirty + miles in the fresh morning air, have a tendency to produce a + keen appetite; and the present occasion proved no exception to + that rule.</p> + + <p>After breakfast I rested and wrote some letters, while the + gentlemen inspected the farm and stud. The proprietor of this + estancia has the best horses in this part of the country, and + has taken great pains to improve their breed, as well as that + of the cattle and sheep, by importing thorough-breds from + England. Unlike the Arabs, neither <span class="pagenum">Page + 92<a name="Page_92" + id="Page_92"></a></span>natives nor settlers here think of + riding mares, and it is considered quite a disgrace to do + so. They are therefore either allowed to run wild in troops, + or are used to trample out corn or to make mud for bricks. + They are also frequently killed and boiled down, for the + sake of their hides and tallow, the value of which does not + amount to more than about 10<i>s</i>. per head. Large herds + of them are met with at this time of the year on the Pampas, + attended by a few horses, and accompanied by their + foals.</p> + + <p>The natives of these parts pass their lives in the saddle. + Horses are used for almost every conceivable employment, from + hunting and fishing to brick-making and butter-churning. Even + the very beggars ride about on horseback. I have seen a + photograph of one, with a police certificate of mendicancy + hanging round his neck, taken from life for Sir Woodbine + Parish. Every domestic servant has his or her own horse, as a + matter of course; and the maids are all provided with habits, + in which they ride about on Sundays, from one estancia to + another, to pay visits. In fishing, the horse is ridden into + the water as far as he can go, and the net or rod is then made + use of by his rider. At Buenos Ayres I have seen the poor + animals all but swimming to the shore, with heavy carts and + loads, from the ships anchored in the inner roads; for the + water is so shallow that only very small boats can go alongside + the vessels, and the cargo is therefore transferred directly to + the carts to save the trouble and expense of transshipment. In + out-of-the-way places, on the Pampas, where no churns exist, + butter is made by putting milk into a goat-skin bag, attached + by a long lasso to the saddle of a peon, who is then set to + gallop a certain number of miles, with the bag bumping and + jumping along the ground after him.</p> + + <p>About four o'clock the horses—much larger and better + bred animals than those we have been riding lately—were + brought round from the corral. Mine was a beauty; easy, + <span class="pagenum">Page 93<a name="Page_93" + id="Page_93"></a></span>gentle, and fast. We first took a + canter round the cultivated ground, about 300 acres in + extent, and in capital condition. Lucerne grows here + splendidly, and can be cut seven times a year. As we left + the yard, Mr. Nield's man asked if he would take the dogs. + He replied in the negative; but I suppose he must have + referred to the greyhounds only, for we were certainly + accompanied on the present occasion by <i>eleven</i> dogs of + various sorts and sizes, those left behind being shut up and + kept without food, in anticipation of the stag-hunt + to-morrow. We rode over the race-course, where the horses + are trained, and on to the partridge ground. The larger kind + of these birds are extremely stupid, and are easily ridden + down by a horseman, or caught in a noose. They rise three + times, and after the third flight they are so exhausted and + terrified that it is easy to dismount and catch them with + the hand, as they lie panting on the long grass. + Partridge-hunting is considered good sport. It is necessary + to keep your eye constantly fixed upon the bird, and to + watch where he settles, and then to gallop to the spot as + hard as possible, leaving your horse to look after himself + amid the long grass; and this manoeuvre has to be repeated + until at last the unfortunate bird is overtaken and + caught.</p> + + <p>As we were riding along, the dogs found and killed a + bizcacha, in a bank. Just as Mr. Elliott had pulled it out, and + had laid it, dead, in the field, its little companion owl + arrived, and appeared to be in the most dreadful state of mind. + It shrieked and cried, as it hovered over us, and finally + selected a small white fox terrier, who, I think, really had + been principally concerned in the death, as the object of its + vengeance, pouncing down upon his head, and giving him two or + three good pecks, at the same time flapping its wings + violently. The other dogs drove it off; but more than half an + hour afterwards, while we were looking at some horses, nearly a + mile from the spot, the plucky little owl returned to the + charge, and again swooped down upon the + <span class="pagenum">Page 94<a name="Page_94" + id="Page_94"></a></span>same dog, with a dismal cry, and + administered a vigorous peck to him. Altogether it was a + striking and interesting proof of the attachment existing + between these curious birds and beasts; the object of the + owl in the present instance clearly being to revenge if + possible the death of its friend.</p> + + <p>On our return to the farm, we went all round the place, and + found that everything was being made secure for the night; + after which we watched all the servants come in one by one for + their daily ration of grog, and then retired to dress for + dinner, shortly after which, being thoroughly tired out, I + retired to my bed-room, attended by a very kind old Irishwoman, + who had been deputed to look after me. My mind was at first + somewhat disturbed by the discovery of one or two enormous + toads and long-armed spiders in my apartment; but they + fortunately did not interfere with my repose, for I slept like + a top. All the rooms being on the ground-floor, it is almost + impossible entirely to exclude intruders of this description. I + admired very much what I took to be two fine ponchos, of a + delicate fawn-colour, used as tablecloths, but upon a closer + examination I found that they were made of the finest silk, and + learned afterwards that they were imported from England. I + don't know why the same material should not be employed for a + similar purpose at home; but I believe that those manufactured + hitherto have been designed expressly for the South American + market, to which they are exported in considerable + quantities.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, September 21st</i>.—At five o'clock, when + I awoke, it was so misty that I could only see about half-way + across the yard. By six, the hour at which we were to have + started on our hunting expedition, matters had improved a + little; but it was still considered unsafe to venture out, for + fear of being lost on the vast plains which surrounded us. An + hour later, however, it was reported that the fog was clearing + off, and a little before eight o'clock + <span class="pagenum">Page 95<a name="Page_95" + id="Page_95"></a></span>we started. Horses, riders, and + dogs, all appeared to be in the highest spirits, the former + jumping and frisking about, hardly deigning to touch the + ground, the latter tearing after one another and barking at + every stray bird they met. The pack numbered seventeen, and + could hardly be called a level lot of hounds, comprising, as + it did, two deerhounds, five well-bred greyhounds, two + retrievers, one setter, one spaniel, one French poodle, two + fox terriers, one black and tan terrier, and two animals of + an utterly indescribable breed; but they all did their work + well, as the event proved. Even the shaggy fat old French + poodle arrived in each case before the deer was cut up.</p> + + <p>Two deer were soon descried in the distance, and we cantered + steadily towards them at the rate of about ten miles an hour, + until the dogs winded and sighted them. Then, directly the + first short yelp was heard, every horse extended himself in an + instant, galloping away as hard as he could go, almost + literally <i>ventre à terre</i>. They were nearly all + thoroughbreds, and had been raced, so that the speed was + something delightful. But it only lasted ten minutes, at the + end of which time the dogs ran into one of the deer, and thus + put a temporary stop to our enjoyment. He proved to be a fine + buck, and was soon killed. His legs were cut off for trophies, + but, his horns being like velvet, the head was not worth + having. Some of the dogs pursued the doe, but failed to pull + her down, and returned half an hour later fatigued and + panting.</p> + + <p>It had become hot by this time, so we rode to the nearest + water, to enable the animals to drink and bathe, and then + started afresh at a sharp canter. There were plenty of bizcacha + holes and boggy places to be avoided; but we allowed the horses + to take care of themselves and us in this respect, and occupied + ourselves almost exclusively in looking for fresh deer. For + some time we found nothing; then two sprang out of the long + grass close to the <i>cañada</i>, which they crossed, + and, on reaching the other side, started + <span class="pagenum">Page 96<a name="Page_96" + id="Page_96"></a></span>off in different directions. The + pack pursued and divided, some going after each animal. I, + and two others of the party, followed the doe, and after + another short burst of ten minutes, at a tremendous pace, we + ran into and killed her. As soon as she had been despatched, + we wanted to follow the buck, in pursuit of which the rest + of the riders had gone, but there was now nothing to be seen + of him or them. Flat as the country looked, the slight + undulations of the ground quite hid them from our view. + After riding about for two hours in various directions, + looking and listening most patiently, we abandoned the + search in despair, and returned to the house, where we found + that our friends had already arrived. They had enjoyed the + best run they have had for many months—seven miles, + from point to point—but the dogs had lain down, dead + beat, at the end of the first six miles. The horsemen had + galloped on, their animals tailing off one by one, until + only two remained in it at all. Having mutually agreed to + let the stag live till another day to afford perhaps as good + a run and as much pleasure to some one else, they thereupon + also abandoned the chase, and turned their horses' heads + homewards.</p> + + <p>After a change of dress, we proceeded to pack up, + preparatory to our departure, and then had breakfast, after + which we bade adieu to our kind hosts, and started in the + waggonette to retrace our steps to the station. It was very + bright and hot, and the sun and wind had already begun to have + a visible effect upon the vegetation of the Pampas. The streams + were much more passable, and we reached Cañada de Gomez + at about half-past five, in a shorter time, than it had taken + us to perform the outward journey yesterday. On reaching + Rosario at about ten o'clock, we found several friends waiting + to receive us, with invitations to tea; but we felt too tired + in body and too disreputable in appearance to accept them, and + preferred going straight to our hotel and to bed.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 97<a name="Page_97" + id="Page_97"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_VII" + id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">MORE ABOUT THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>The twilight is sad and + cloudy</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>The wind blows wild + and free</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>And like the wings + of sea-birds</i><br /></span> <span><i>Flash the white + caps of the sea</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Friday, September 22nd</i>.—Mr. Fisher called for + me at 8 a.m., to drive me in his little carriage to the railway + yard and workshops, and then to pay some farewell visits. We + also went to see the market, and to get some photographs of + Rosario; after which, breakfast, packing-up, and paying the + bill occupied our time until one o'clock, when we started for + the steamer, to return to Buenos Ayres. On our arrival + alongside the 'Proveedor,' I found that nearly all our Rosario + friends had come down to the landing-place to see us off, and + had brought all manner of remembrances for me and the children. + Flowers in profusion; a tame cardinal bird for Muriel; a pair + of dear little long-tailed green paroquets; the skin of a seal, + shot at the Alexandria colony; a beautiful poncho; an Argentine + bit, whip, and stirrups; a carpincha skin; two pretty little + muletas—a sort of armadillo, very tame, and often kept in + the houses here as a pet; and several other presents, all of + which, when I look at them at home, will serve to remind me of + the kind donors, and of the happy days spent in the Argentine + Republic.</p> + + <p>It was not long before we were off, and steaming slowly + astern of the 'Uruguay.' This boat is not so large nor so fast + as the 'Uruguay,' though the difference in speed does not + probably amount to more than fifteen minutes in the + <span class="pagenum">Page 98<a name="Page_98" + id="Page_98"></a></span>twenty-four hours. Her saloon and + deck are not so good, but her sleeping-cabins are much + larger and more comfortable. The Italian captains are + equally agreeable on both steamers, the civility is the + same, and the fares and food are precisely similar, so that + there is not much left to influence one in the choice of + vessels. We had a pleasant party at an excellent dinner in + the evening, the captain only regretting that we had not + been on board two days ago, when Mlle. P. and the opera + company went down from Rosario to Buenos Ayres. They had a + very cheery evening, and some good music, which Tom told us + afterwards he thoroughly enjoyed. There were no musicians on + board to-night, and not any temptation to sit up late, which + was perhaps as well; one of the reasons for our going back + this way being that we wished to have an opportunity of + seeing the River Tigré, which we should reach in the + early morning. On the upward journey we had, to save time, + embarked at Campaña, which is situated above that + river.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, September 23rd</i>.—At 4.30 a.m. the + captain called me, being anxious that I should not miss any of + the beauties of the Tigré. On my arrival on deck he + kindly had a chair placed for me right in the bows, provided me + with rugs and wraps, and sent for some hot coffee, which was + particularly acceptable, as the morning air was fresh and + chilly. The sky was flushed with rosy clouds, the forerunners + of one of the most beautiful sunrises imaginable. The river + itself is narrow and monotonous, the branches of the + willow-tree on either bank almost sweeping the sides of the + steamer. The centre channel is fairly deep; but we managed to + run aground once, though we only drew nine feet, and in turning + a sharp corner it was necessary to send a boat ashore with a + rope, to pull the vessel's head round.</p> + + <p>At half-past six we reached the port of Tigré, where + we found many fine ships waiting for the tide, to go up the + river. Some delay occurred while the passengers' luggage + <span class="pagenum">Page 99<a name="Page_99" + id="Page_99"></a></span>was being examined; but in about + half an hour we were able to land and walk to the + railway-station, through an avenue of shady trees, round the + trunks of which the wistaria, now in full bloom, was + climbing, and past several houses, whose pretty gardens were + ablaze with all sorts of flowers. At the station I found a + letter from Tom, telling me we were expected to breakfast at + a quinta, not far from Buenos Ayres.</p> + + <p>For about an hour and a half the line ran through a rich and + fertile country, quite the garden of Buenos Ayres, until we + arrived at the station where we were to alight. Here Mr. + Coghlan met us and drove us to his house, which is charmingly + situated in the midst of a grove of olive-trees, formerly + surrounding the palace of the viceroys. After breakfast the + gardener cut us a fine bouquet of roses and violets, and we + walked to the tramway, and were conveyed by one of the cars, + smoothly and quickly, to the city. The contrast between this + mode of travelling and riding in an ordinary carriage through + the ill-paved streets is very striking. It is really less + fatiguing to walk than to adopt the latter mode of conveyance, + and I believe that, but for the look of the thing, most people + would prefer to do so. How the vehicles themselves stand the + jolting I cannot imagine, for they are all large and handsome, + and must suffer tremendous strains.</p> + + <p>At noon we went with Mr. Coghlan to see the market and the + museum, and to do some shopping. The market is a large open + building, well supplied with everything at moderate prices; + meat, game, fruit, vegetables, and flowers being especially + cheap and good. House-rent and fine clothes—what Muriel + would call 'dandy things'—are very dear in Buenos Ayres, + but all the necessaries of life are certainly cheap. People of + the middle and lower classes live much better here than they do + at home, and the development of bone and muscle in large + families of small children, owing to the constant use of so + much meat and <span class="pagenum">Page 100<a name="Page_100" + id="Page_100"></a></span> strong soup, is very remarkable. + When once they have attained the age at which they can run + about, children get on very well; but the climate, and the + difficulty of obtaining a proper supply of milk in hot + weather, often prove fatal to infants. It is very difficult + to get good servants here, as they can easily obtain much + higher pay in other capacities, and are very soon enabled to + set up in business for themselves. Returning to the hotel, + we collected our parcels and had some luncheon, and then + proceeded to the pier, where we found the children waiting + for us to embark in the gig, and we soon arrived safely on + board the 'Sunbeam.'</p> + + <p>At about half-past six, Tom and Mabelle returned from their + expedition to the largest and most comfortable estancia in the + country, where they were received most hospitably, and enjoyed + themselves very much.</p> + + <p>After dinner, some of our party left in the whale-boat, + being anxious to be present at Madame Almazilia's benefit + performance at the opera, for which I fear they arrived too + late after all. Whilst we were waiting at the railway-station + to-day, some of the bouquets, which were to be presented at the + theatre to-night, arrived by train. The flowers were arranged + in all manner of strange shapes and devices—full-sized + tables and chairs, music-stands, and musical instruments, and + many other quaint conceits, composed entirely of grey + Neapolitan violets, marked out with camellias and other + coloured flowers.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, September 24th</i>.—Most of us went ashore + in the whale-boat at ten o'clock, to attend the English church, + reopened to-day for the first time for some months. After our + own service we met many friends, and walked to the Roman + Catholic cathedral. The streets were full of well-appointed + carriages, and in the interior of the building we found a great + many well-dressed ladies, and a few men. Mass had not + commenced, and a constant stream of worshippers was still + entering; but we remained only for a short time, and then + <span class="pagenum">Page 101<a name="Page_101" + id="Page_101"></a></span>returned to the Mole. By this time + the wind had freshened considerably, and several of our + friends tried to persuade us to remain on shore; but as we + knew Tom was expecting us, and we wanted to get the things + we required for our next journey, we thought it better to go + off.</p> + + <p>It took us two hours and a half, beating against the wind, + to reach the yacht, sea-sick, and drenched to the skin. + Directly we got outside the bar the sea was very bad, and each + wave broke more or less over the little half-deck, under which + the children had been packed away for shelter. Seeing how rough + it was out at the anchorage—far worse than near the + shore—Tom had quite given us up, for it was now half-past + three, and was preparing to come ashore, bringing our things + with him. On board the yacht we found an unfortunate French + maid, and another servant, who had come off early in the + morning to spend the day and have dinner with our people, but + who were now lying prostrate and ill in the cabin.</p> + + <p>Champagne and luncheon revived us a little, and Tom hurried + us off to get ashore again by daylight, before the weather + became worse. It was a very pleasant twenty minutes' sail to + the shore, racing along before the wind, with two reefs in the + mainsail—quite a different thing from beating out. The + tide was high, and the captain therefore steered for the pier, + where he hoped to land us. Unfortunately, however, he missed + it; and as it was impossible to make another tack out, all that + could be done was to let go the anchor to save running ashore, + and wait until they sent out a small boat to fetch us. This + took some little time during which we pitched and tossed about + in a very disagreeable fashion. When the boat did at last + arrive she turned out to be a wretched little skiff, rowed by + two men, with very indifferent oars, and only capable of taking + three passengers at a time. Tom went first, taking with him the + two children, and the two poor sea-sick maids, and the boat at + once put off for the land, Tom steering. + <span class="pagenum">Page 102<a name="Page_102" + id="Page_102"></a></span>It was terrible to watch them from + the whale-boat, and when one tremendous sea came, and the + skiff broached to, I thought for a moment that all was over, + as did every one who was watching our proceedings from the + pier. I could not look any more, till I heard shouts that + they were safe ashore. Then came our turn. The boat returned + for us, this time provided with better oars, and we were + soon landed in safety, if not in comfort; and a third and + last trip brought ashore the rest of the party and the + luggage, Tom remaining at the tiller.</p> + + <p>Mr. Coghlan had come down to meet us, but, seeing the peril + of the first boat, had gone away until he heard we were all + landed, and now returned to congratulate us on our narrow + escape and present safety. After we had rested for a short time + in the waiting-room, to recover from our fright and shake our + dripping garments, we went to the Hôtel de la Paix, where + we dined, and at ten o'clock we walked down to the + railway-station, where a large number of people had already + assembled, some of whom were to accompany us to Azul, while + others had only come to see us off.</p> + + <p>Everything had been most comfortably arranged for us in the + special train. The interior fittings of two second-class + American carriages had been completely taken out, and a canvas + lining, divided into compartments, each containing a cozy + little bed, had been substituted. Wash-stands, looking-glasses, + &c., had been provided, and a profusion of beautiful + flowers filled in every available spot. In a third car two + tables, occupying its entire length, with seats on one side of + each table, had been placed; and here it was intended that we + should breakfast, lunch, and dine.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, September 25th</i>.—We slept + soundly—speaking for the children and myself—until + we were aroused at six o'clock this morning by the agreeable + intelligence that we had reached our destination. Azul is about + 300 miles south of Buenos Ayres, on the Southern Railway. It is + a <span class="pagenum">Page 103<a name="Page_103" + id="Page_103"></a></span>small and primitive place in + itself, but is situated in the midst of splendid pastures, + both for rearing sheep and cattle, of which there are large + flocks and herds.</p> + + <p>Whilst we were waiting for breakfast, we walked a little + distance to see a troop of mares treading mud for bricks. It + was a curious, but rather sad sight. Inside a circular + enclosure, some fifty yards in diameter, about fifty + half-starved animals, up to their houghs in very sloppy mud, + were being driven round about, and up and down, as fast as they + could go, by a mounted peon, assisted by five or six men on + foot, outside the enclosure, armed with long heavy whips, which + they used constantly. Some of the poor creatures had foals, + which were tied up a little distance off, and which kept up a + piteous whinnying, as an accompaniment to the lashings and + crackings of the whips. On our way back to the station we saw a + horse, attached to a light gig, bolt across the Pampas at full + gallop, vainly pursued by a man on horseback. First one wheel + came off and then the other; then the body of the gig was left + behind, and then the shafts and most of the harness followed + suit; until at last—as we afterwards heard—the + runaway reached his home, about five miles off, with only his + bridle remaining.</p> + + <p>At nine o'clock the breakfast-bell rang, and we found an + excellent repast spread out for us on two long tables. An hour + later we started in seven large carriages, and proceeded first + to make the tour of the town, afterwards visiting the bank, and + a fine new house in the course of construction by a native, + built entirely of white marble from Italy. Then we paid a visit + to some Indians—an old chief and his four wives, who have + settled quietly down in a toldo near the town. They were not + bad-looking, and appeared fairly comfortable, as they squatted + in the open air round the fire, above which was suspended a + large iron pot, containing, to judge by the look and smell, a + most savoury preparation. We next went to a store, where we + picked up a few curiosities, and then drove to the mill of + Azul, a new <span class="pagenum">Page 104<a name="Page_104" + id="Page_104"></a></span>establishment, of which the + inhabitants of the town are evidently very proud. There is a + pretty walk by the mill-stream, overhung with willows, and + close by is another toldo, inhabited by more Indians.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_119" + id="Illus_119"></a> <img src="images/t_119.jpg" + width="240" + height="181" + alt="Illustration: Indians at Azul" + title="Illustration: Indians at Azul" /><br /> + <b>Indians at Azul</b><br /> + <a href="images/119.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>Leaving the town, we now proceeded about two leagues across + the Pampas to Mr. Frer's estancia. He is a farmer, on a very + extensive scale, and possesses about 24,000 sheep and 500 + horses, besides goodly herds of cattle. The locusts have not + visited this part of the country, and the pastures are + consequently in fine condition after the late rains, while the + sheep look proportionately well. We passed a large + <i>grasseria</i>, or place where sheep are killed at the rate + of seven in a minute, and are skinned, cut up, and boiled down + for tallow in an incredibly short space of time, the residue of + the meat being used in the furnace as fuel. Running about + loose, outside, were four or five curly-horned rams, between + two of which a grand combat took place, apparently conducted in + strict accordance with the rules of fighting etiquette. The two + animals began by walking round and round, eyeing each other + carefully, and <span class="pagenum">Page 105<a name="Page_105" + id="Page_105"></a></span>then retiring backwards a certain + distance, which might have been measured out for them, they + stopped so exactly simultaneously. Then, gazing steadfastly + at one another for a few moments, as if to take aim, they + rushed forward with tremendous force, dashing their + foreheads together with a crash that might have been heard a + mile away. It seemed marvellous that they did not fracture + their skulls, for they repeated the operation three or four + times before Mr. Frer could get a man to help to stop the + fight, when the two combatants were led off, in a very sulky + state, to be locked up apart.</p> + + <p>Arrangements had been made for us to see as much of + station-life as possible during our short visit. The peons' + dinner had been put back, in order that we might witness their + peculiar method of roasting, or rather baking, their food, and + eating it; but we were rather later than was expected, and the + men were so hungry that we were only able to see the end of the + performance. Mr. Frer had also sent a long way across the + Pampas for some wild horses, belonging to him, in order that we + might see them lassoed; and Colonel Donovan had brought with + him one of his best domidors, or horse-breakers, that we might + have an opportunity of seeing an unbroken colt caught and + backed for the first time.</p> + + <p>About a hundred horses were driven into a large corral, and + several gauchos and peons, some on horseback and some on foot, + exhibited their skill with the lasso, by catching certain of + the animals, either by the fore leg, the hind leg, or the neck, + as they galloped round and round at full speed. The captured + animal got a tremendous fall in each case, and if the mounted + horse was not very clever and active, he and his rider were + very likely to be thrown down also. There was the risk too of + the man receiving an injury from the lasso itself, if it should + happen to get round his body, in which case he would probably + be almost cut in half by the sudden jerk.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_121" + id="Illus_121"></a> <img src="images/t_121.jpg" + width="240" + height="146" + alt="Illustration: Lassoing Horses" + title="Illustration: Lassoing Horses" /><br /> + <b>Lassoing Horses</b><br /> + <a href="images/121.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 106<a name="Page_106" + id="Page_106"></a></span></p> + + <p>The next proceeding was to cast a lasso at a <i>potro</i>, + or unbroken colt, who was galloping about in the very centre of + the troop, at full speed. His fore legs were caught dexterously + in the noose, which brought him up, or rather down, instantly, + head over heels. Another lasso was then thrown over his head, + and drawn quite tight round his neck, and a bridle, composed of + two or three thongs of raw hide, was forced into his mouth by + means of a slip-knot rein. A sheepskin saddle was placed on his + back, the man who was to ride him standing over him, with one + foot already in the stirrup. All this time the poor horse was + lying on the ground, with his legs tied close together, + frightened almost out of his life, trembling in every limb, and + perspiring from every pore. When the man was ready, the horse's + legs were loosened sufficiently to allow him to rise, and he + was then led outside the corral. The lassoes were suddenly + withdrawn, and he dashed forwards, springing and plunging + upwards, sideways, downwards, in every direction, in the vain + effort to rid himself of his unaccustomed load. The man + remained planted, like a rock, in the saddle, + <span class="pagenum">Page 107<a name="Page_107" + id="Page_107"></a></span>pulling hard at the bridle, while a + second domidor, mounted on a tame horse, pursued the + terrified animal, striking him with a cruel whip to make him + go in the required direction. After about ten minutes of + this severe exercise, the captive returned to the corral, + exhausted, and perfectly cowed, and showing no desire to + rejoin his late companions. In order to complete the process + of breaking him in, we were told that it would be necessary + to keep him tied up for two or three days, rather short of + food, and to repeat daily the operation of saddling, + bridling, and mounting, the difficulty being less on each + occasion, until at last he would become as quiet as a + lamb.</p> + + <p>We now saw our train approaching, orders having been given + for it to come as far as it could from the station to meet us. + We wished good-bye to Mr. Frer and his party, and, with many + thanks to all, got into our carriages and drove across the + plains to the railway. On our way we passed some large lagunes, + full of wild fowl, and surrounded by scarlet flamingoes and + pelicans. The ground we had to traverse was very boggy; so much + so, that two of the carriages got stuck, and their occupants + had to turn out and walk. At last we reached the train, and + climbed into the cars, where we found an excellent luncheon + prepared, which we ate whilst the train dashed along at the + rate of forty miles an hour. About seven o'clock we stopped for + tea and coffee, and the children were put to bed. By nine we + had reached the junction for Buenos Ayres, where an engine met + us, and took most of our party into the city, in one of the + cars, while we went on to Punta Lara, the station for + Ensenada.</p> + + <p>On arriving we were met by several of our men, who had been + allowed to go ashore at Buenos Ayres on Sunday morning, and had + not been able to rejoin the yacht since. On Sunday night, when + they were to have returned, it was impossible for them to get + off. Even the whale-boat was nearly dashed to pieces, at + anchor, near the pier. They <span class="pagenum">Page + 108<a name="Page_108" + id="Page_108"></a></span>spent the early part of Monday + morning in hunting everywhere with the pilot for the lost + steward, and at last left the shore just in time to see the + yacht steaming down the river, with only half her crew on + board, and without a pilot. It seems they had been waited + for from eight o'clock until eleven; it then became + necessary to get under way, for fear of losing the tide. As + it was, the yacht had not been able to get near the pier at + Ensenada, and was now lying in the river, two miles out. The + station-master, having been informed of the state of + affairs, very kindly had steam got up in the railway tug to + take us off. The children, with their nurses, remained in + bed in the car, which was shunted into a siding until the + morning, the doctor staying on shore in charge. The rest of + us then set out for the yacht, which we reached at 1 a.m., + only to be greeted with the pleasing intelligence that no + fresh provisions had arrived on board for the party of + friends we were expecting. The captain of the tug was good + enough to promise to do what he could for us on shore; but + everything is brought here from Buenos Ayres, and it is too + late to telegraph for a supply. We cannot help fearing that + something must have happened to our steward, for he has + always been most steady and respectable hitherto, and I + fancy Buenos Ayres is rather a wild place. Every inquiry is + to be made, and I can only trust the morning may bring us + some news.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, September 26th</i>.—The morning was fine, + with a nice breeze, but the tide was so low that we should have + been unable to get alongside the pier until ten o'clock, when + Tom thought we should just miss our guests. It was therefore + decided that it would be better to send the steam-tug to meet + the special train, especially as, if we took the yacht in, it + would be impossible to get out again in the middle of the + night, when we had arranged to sail.</p> + + <p>The steam-tug came off early, bringing two sheep, half a + bullock, and some wild ducks, much to the relief of the cook's + mind; but there were no vegetables to be had on + <span class="pagenum">Page 109<a name="Page_109" + id="Page_109"></a></span>shore, and of course it was too + late to send to Buenos Ayres for any. We had to do the best + we could without them, therefore, and I really do not think + any one knew of the dilemma we had been in, until they were + told, at the end of the day. The servants all turned to and + worked with a will; but it was rather a different matter + from having a large luncheon party on board in the Thames, + with our London servants and supplies to fall back upon.</p> + + <p>For our own part, I think we all felt that the comparative + scarcity of meat this morning was an agreeable change, after + our recent experiences. Animal food is so cheap and so good in + this country that at every meal four or five dishes of beef or + mutton, dressed in various ways, are provided. In the + camp—as all the country round Buenos Ayres is + called—people eat nothing but meat, either fresh or + dried, and hardly any flour with it. Especially in the more + distant estancias, beef and mutton, poultry and eggs, form the + staple food of the inhabitants. Very little bread is eaten, and + no vegetables, and an attempt is rarely made to cultivate a + garden of any sort. This year, too, the ravages of the locusts + have made vegetable food scarcer than ever, and it must now be + looked upon quite as a luxury by very many people; for there + can be little doubt that to live entirely on meat, even of the + best quality, though probably strengthening, must be + exceedingly monotonous.</p> + + <p>About one o'clock we saw the tug coming off again, this time + with her decks crowded. We found she had brought us fifteen + ladies and thirty gentlemen—more than we had expected, on + account of the shortness of the notice we had been able to + give. The luncheon was managed by dividing our guests into + three parties, the coffee and dessert being served on deck; but + I am afraid the last division got very hungry before their time + arrived. It could not, however, be helped, and it is to be + hoped that the examination of the various parts of the yacht + and her contents <span class="pagenum">Page + 110<a name="Page_110" + id="Page_110"></a></span>served to while away the time. + Every one seemed to be pleased with the appearance of the + vessel, never having seen one like her before. Indeed, the + only yacht that has ever been here previously is the + 'Eothen,' which formerly belonged to us.</p> + + <p>Mr. St. John's servant brought me a most magnificent + bouquet, composed entirely of violets, arranged in the shape of + a basket, three feet in width, full of camellias, and marked + with my initials in alyssum. Altogether it was quite a work of + art, but almost overpoweringly sweet.</p> + + <p>It was late before our friends began the task of saying + good-bye—no light matter where, as in the present case, + it is doubtful whether, or at any rate when, we shall meet + again. At last they left us, steaming round the yacht in the + tug, and giving us some hearty cheers as they passed. The + Minister's flag was run up, salutes were exchanged, and the + little steamer rapidly started off in the direction of the + shore, followed by a dense cloud of her own smoke. Through a + telescope we watched our friends disembark at the pier, and saw + the train steam away; and then we turned our thoughts to the + arrangements for our own departure.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, September 27th</i>.—A fine breeze was + blowing this morning, in a favourable direction for our start, + but as ten and eleven o'clock arrived, and there were still no + signs of the expected stores, Tom was in despair, and wanted to + sail without them. I therefore volunteered to go ashore in the + gig and see what had happened to them, and telegraph, if + necessary, to Mr. Crabtree. Fortunately, we met the tug on our + way, and returned in tow of her to the yacht. Then, after + settling a few bills, and obtaining our bill of health, we got + the anchor up, and proceeded down the river under sail. Between + one and two o'clock we commenced steaming, and in the course of + the evening were clear of the River Plate and fairly on our way + to the Straits of Magellan.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 111<a name="Page_111" + id="Page_111"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" + id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">RIVER PLATE TO SANDY POINT, STRAITS OF + MAGELLAN.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>I have seen tempests, when the scolding + winds</i><br /></span> <span><i>Have riv'd the knotty + oaks; and I have seen</i><br /></span> <span><i>The + ambitious ocean swell and rage and + foam</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>To be exalted with the + threat'ning clouds</i>:<br /></span> <span><i>But never + till to-night, never till now</i><br /></span> + <span><i>Did I go through a tempest dropping + fire</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Thursday, September 28th</i>,—A fine bright + morning, with a strong, fair wind. The order to stop firing was + given at noon, and we ceased steaming shortly after. There had + evidently been a gale from the southward during the last few + days, for the swell was tremendous, and not only made us all + feel very uncomfortable after our long stay in harbour, but + considerably diminished our speed. Still, we managed to go + twenty-seven knots in two hours and a half.</p> + + <p>I was lying down, below, after breakfast, feeling very + stupid, when Mabelle rushed into the cabin, saying, 'Papa says + you are to come up on deck at once, to see the ship on fire.' I + rushed up quickly, hardly knowing whether she referred to our + own or some other vessel, and on reaching the deck I found + everybody looking at a large barque, under full sail, flying + the red union-jack upside down, and with signals in her + rigging, which our signal-man read as 'Ship on fire.' These + were lowered shortly afterwards, and the signals, 'Come on + board at once,' hoisted in their place. Still we could see no + appearance of smoke or flames, but we nevertheless hauled to + the wind, tacked, hove to, and sent off a boat's crew, well + armed, thinking it not impossible that a mutiny had taken place + on board and that the <span class="pagenum">Page + 112<a name="Page_112" + id="Page_112"></a></span>captain or officers, mistaking the + yacht for a gunboat, had appealed to us for assistance. We + were now near enough to the barque to make out her name + through a glass—the 'Monkshaven,' of Whitby—and + we observed a puff of smoke issue from her deck + simultaneously with the arrival of our boat alongside. In + the course of a few minutes, the boat returned, bringing the + mate of the 'Monkshaven,' a fine-looking Norwegian, who + spoke English perfectly, and who reported his ship to be + sixty-eight days out from Swansea, bound for Valparaiso, + with a cargo of smelting coal. The fire had first been + discovered on the previous Sunday, and by 6 a.m. on Monday + the crew had got up their clothes and provisions on deck, + thrown overboard all articles of a combustible character, + such as tar, oil, paint, spare spars and sails, planks, and + rope, and battened down the hatches. Ever since then they + had all been living on deck, with no protection from the + wind and sea but a canvas screen. Tom and Captain Brown + proceeded on board at once. They found the deck more than a + foot deep in water, and all a-wash; when the hatches were + opened for a moment dense <span class="pagenum">Page + 113<a name="Page_113" + id="Page_113"></a></span>clouds of hot suffocating yellow + smoke immediately poured forth, driving back all who stood + near. From the captain's cabin came volumes of poisonous + gas, which had found its way in through the crevices, and + one man, who tried to enter, was rendered insensible.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_127" + id="Illus_127"></a> <img src="images/t_127.jpg" + width="240" + height="172" + alt="Illustration: Monkshaven on Fire" + title="Illustration: Monkshaven on Fire" /><br /> + <b>Monkshaven on Fire</b><br /> + <a href="images/127.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>It was perfectly evident that it would be impossible to save + the ship, and the captain therefore determined, after + consultation with Tom and Captain Brown, to abandon her. Some + of the crew were accordingly at once brought on board the + 'Sunbeam,' in our boat, which was then sent back to assist in + removing the remainder, a portion of whom came in their own + boat. The poor fellows were almost wild with joy at getting + alongside another ship, after all the hardships they had gone + through, and in their excitement they threw overboard many + things which they might as well have kept, as they had taken + the trouble to bring them. Our boat made three trips + altogether, and by half-past six we had them all safe on board, + with most of their effects, and the ship's chronometers, + charts, and papers.</p> + + <p>The poor little dingy, belonging to the 'Monkshaven,' had + been cast away as soon as the men had disembarked from her, and + there was something melancholy in seeing her slowly drift away + to leeward, followed by her oars and various small articles, as + if to rejoin the noble ship she had so lately quitted. The + latter was now hove-to, under full sail, an occasional puff of + smoke alone betraying the presence of the demon of destruction + within. The sky was dark and lowering, the sunset red and lurid + in its grandeur, the clouds numerous and threatening, the sea + high and dark, with occasional streaks of white foam. Not a + breath of wind was stirring. Everything portended a gale. As we + lay slowly rolling from side to side, both ship and boat were + sometimes plainly visible, and then again both would disappear, + for what seemed an age, in the deep trough of the South + Atlantic rollers.</p> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 114<a name="Page_114" + id="Page_114"></a></span>For two hours we could see the + smoke pouring from various portions of the ill-fated barque. + Our men, who had brought off the last of her crew, reported + that, as they left her, flames were just beginning to burst + from the fore-hatchway; and it was therefore certain that + the rescue had not taken place an hour too soon. Whilst we + were at dinner, Powell called us up on deck to look at her + again, when we found that she was blazing like a tar-barrel. + The captain was anxious to stay by and see the last of her, + but Tom was unwilling to incur the delay which this would + have involved. We accordingly got up steam, and at nine p.m. + steamed round the 'Monkshaven,' as close as it was deemed + prudent to go. No flames were visible then; only dense + volumes of smoke and sparks, issuing from the hatches. The + heat, however, was intense, and could be plainly felt, even + in the cold night air, as we passed some distance to + leeward. All hands were clustered in our rigging, on the + deck-house or on the bridge, to see the last of the poor + 'Monkshaven,' as she was slowly being burnt down to the + water's edge.</p> + + <p>She was a large and nearly new (three years old) composite + ship, built and found by her owners, Messrs. Smales, of Whitby, + of 657 tons burden, and classed A 1 for ten years at Lloyd's. + Her cargo, which consisted of coal for smelting purposes, was a + very dangerous one; so much so that Messrs. Nicholas, of + Sunderland, from whose mines the coal is procured, have great + difficulty in chartering vessels to carry it, and are therefore + in the habit of building and using their own ships for the + purpose. At Buenos Ayres we were told that, of every three + ships carrying this cargo round to Valparaiso or Callao, one + catches fire, though the danger is frequently discovered in + time to prevent much damage to the vessel or loss of life.</p> + + <p>The crew of the 'Monkshaven'—Danes, Norwegians, + Swedes, Scotch, and Welsh—appear to be quiet, respectable + men. This is fortunate, as an incursion of fifteen rough + lawless spirits on board our little vessel would have + <span class="pagenum">Page 115<a name="Page_115" + id="Page_115"></a></span>been rather a serious matter. In + their hurry and fright, however, they left all their + provisions behind them, and it is no joke to have to provide + food for fifteen extra hungry mouths for a week or ten days, + with no shops at hand from which to replenish our stores. + The sufficiency of the water supply, too, is a matter for + serious consideration. We have all been put on + half-allowance, and sea-water only is to be used for washing + purposes.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_130" + id="Illus_130"></a> <img src="images/t_130.jpg" + width="240" + height="217" + alt="Illustration: Shipwrecked Crew coming on Board" + title="Illustration: Shipwrecked Crew coming on Board" /><br /> + + <b>Shipwrecked Crew coming on Board</b><br /> + <a href="images/130.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>Some account of the disaster, as gathered from the lips of + various members of the crew at different times, may perhaps be + interesting. It seems that, early on Monday morning, the day + following that on which the fire was discovered, another + barque, the 'Robert Hinds,' of Liverpool, was spoken. The + captain of that vessel offered to stand by them or do anything + in his power to help them; but at that time they had a fair + wind for Monte Video, only 120 miles distant, and they + therefore determined to run for that port, + <span class="pagenum">Page 116<a name="Page_116" + id="Page_116"></a></span>and do their best to save the ship, + and possibly some of the cargo. In the course of the night, + however, a terrible gale sprang up, the same, no doubt, as + the one of which we had felt the effects on first leaving + the River Plate. They were driven hither and thither, the + sea constantly breaking over them and sweeping the decks, + though fortunately without washing any of them overboard. + After forty-eight hours of this rough usage the men were all + exhausted, while the fire was gradually increasing in + strength beneath their feet, and they knew not at what + moment it might burst through the decks and envelope the + whole ship in flames. They were beginning to abandon all + hope of a rescue, when a sail was suddenly discovered; and + as soon as the necessary flags could be found, the same + signal which attracted us was displayed. The vessel, now + quite close to them, proved to be a large American steamer, + but she merely hoisted her own ensign and code-pennant, and + then coolly steamed away to the southward. 'I think that + captain deserved tarring and feathering, anyway,' one of the + men said to me. Another observed, 'I wonder what will become + of that man; for we had put all our lives in his hand by + signalling as we did; and every seaman knows that right + well.' Another said, 'When we saw that ship go away, we all + gave in and lay down in despair to die. But our captain, who + is very good to his crew, and a religious man too, said, + "There is One above who looks after us all." That was true + enough, for, about ten minutes afterwards, as I was talking + to the cook, and telling him it was all over with us, I saw + a sail to leeward, and informed the captain. We bore down a + little, but did not like to go out of our course too much, + fearing you might be a "Portuguese," and play us the same + trick as the American.' (They could not understand our white + ensign; for, our funnel being stowed, we looked like a + sailing vessel, while all gunboats of our size are + steamers.) 'When we saw it was an English vessel, and that + you answered our signals and sent a boat off, we were indeed + <span class="pagenum">Page 117<a name="Page_117" + id="Page_117"></a></span>thankful; though that was nothing + to what we feel now at once more having a really dry ship + under our feet. Not that we have really suffered anything + very terrible, for we had a bit of shelter, and plenty to + eat, and the worst part was seeing our things washed + overboard, and thinking perhaps we might go next. We have + not had a dry deck since we left Swansea, and the pumps have + been kept going most of the time. Why, with this sea, ma'am, + our decks would be under water.' (This surprised me; as, + though low in the water, the 'Monkshaven' did not appear to + be overladen, and the Plimsoll mark was plainly visible.) + 'Our boats were all ready for launching, but we had no + sails, and only one rudder for the three; so we should have + had hard work to fetch anywhere if we had taken to them. We + lashed the two boys—apprentices, fourteen and sixteen + years old—in one of the boats, for fear they should be + washed overboard. The youngest of them is the only son of + his mother, a widow; and you could see how she loved him by + the way she had made his clothes, and fitted him out all + through. He was altogether too well found for a ship like + ours, but now most of his things are lost. His chest could + not be got up from below, and though I borrowed an old + bread-bag from the steward, it was not half big enough, and + his sea-boots and things his mother had given him to keep + him dry and cover his bed—not oilskins, like + ours.'—'Mackintoshes,' I suggested.—'Yes, that's + the name—they were all lost. It did seem a pity. The + boy never thought there was much danger till this morning, + when I told him all hope was gone, as the American ship had + sailed away from us. He said, "Will the ship go to the + bottom?" and I replied, "I fear so; but we have good boats, + so keep up your heart, little man." He made no further + remark, but laid down gently again, and cried a little.'</p> + + <p>This poor child was dreadfully frightened in the small boat + coming alongside, and his look of joy and relief, when + <span class="pagenum">Page 118<a name="Page_118" + id="Page_118"></a></span>once he got safely on board, was a + treat to me. Every one on board, including the captain, + seems to have been very kind to him. One of the men had his + foot broken by the sea, and the captain himself had his leg + severely injured; so the Doctor has some cases at last.</p> + + <p>It was almost impossible to sleep during the night, owing to + the heavy rolling, by far the most violent that we have yet + experienced.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, September 29th</i>.—Again a fine morning. A + fair breeze sprang up, and, the dreaded storm having apparently + passed over, we ceased steaming at 6 a.m.</p> + + <p>All on board are now settling down into something like + order. The stewards are arranging matters below, and measuring + out the stores, to allowance the men for twelve days. The men + belonging respectively to the port and starboard watches of the + 'Monkshaven' have been placed in the corresponding watches on + board the 'Sunbeam.' The cook and steward are assisting ours + below, and the two boys are very happy, helping in the kitchen, + and making themselves generally useful. The deck does not look + quite as neat as usual. Such of the men's sea-chests as have + been saved are lashed round the steam-chest, so that they can + be got at easily, while their bags and other odd things have + been stowed on deck, wherever they can be kept dry; for every + inch of available space below is occupied. Captain Runciman is + writing, with tears in his eyes, the account of the loss of his + fine ship. He tells me that he tried in vain to save sixty + pounds' worth of his own private charts from his cabin, but it + was impossible, on account of the stifling atmosphere, which + nearly overpowered him. Fortunately, all his things are + insured. He drowned his favourite dog, a splendid Newfoundland, + just before leaving the ship; for, although a capital + watch-dog, and very faithful, he was rather large and fierce; + and when it was known that the 'Sunbeam' was a yacht, with + ladies and children on board, he feared to introduce him. Poor + <span class="pagenum">Page 119<a name="Page_119" + id="Page_119"></a></span>fellow! I wish I had known about it + in time to save his life!</p> + + <p>The great danger of smelting coal, as a ship's cargo, + besides its special liability to spontaneous combustion, + appears to be that the fire may smoulder in the very centre of + the mass for so long that, when the smoke is at last + discovered, it is impossible to know how far the mischief has + advanced. It may go on smouldering quietly for days, or at any + moment the gas that has been generated may burst up the + vessel's decks from end to end, without the slightest warning. + Or it may burn downwards, and penetrate some portion of the + side of the ship below water; so that, before any suspicion has + been aroused, the water rushes in, and the unfortunate ship and + her crew go to the bottom. On board the 'Monkshaven' the men + dug down into the cargo in many places on Sunday night, only to + find that the heat became more intense the deeper they went; + and several of them had their hands or fingers burnt in the + operation.</p> + + <p>This has been about the best day for sailing that we have + had since we left the tropics. The sea has been smooth, and a + fair breeze has taken us steadily along at the rate of nine + knots an hour. The sun shone brightly beneath a blue sky, and + the temperature is delightful. The sunset was grand, though the + sky looked threatening; but the moon rose brilliantly, and + until we went to bed, at ten o'clock, the evening was as + perfect as the day had been. At midnight, however, Tom and I + were awakened by a knock at our cabin door, and the gruff voice + of Powell, saying: 'The barometer's going down very fast, + please, sir, and it's lightning awful in the sou'-west. There's + a heavy storm coming up.' We were soon on deck, where we found + all hands busily engaged in preparing for the tempest. Around + us a splendid sight presented itself. On one side a heavy bank + of black clouds could be seen rapidly approaching, while the + rest of the heavens were brilliantly illuminated by forked and + sheet lightning, the thunder <span class="pagenum">Page + 120<a name="Page_120" + id="Page_120"></a></span> meanwhile rolling and rattling + without intermission. An ominous calm followed, during which + the men had barely time to lower all the sails on deck, + without waiting to stow them, the foresail and jib only + being left standing, when the squall struck us, not very + severely, but with a blast as hot as that from a furnace. We + thought worse was coming, and continued our preparations; + but the storm passed rapidly away to windward, and was + succeeded by torrents of rain, so that it was evident we + could only have had quite the tail of it.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, September 30th</i>.—The morning broke + bright and clear, and was followed by a calm, bright, sunny + day, of which I availed myself to take some photographs of the + captain and crew of the 'Monkshaven.' The wind failed us + entirely in the afternoon, and it became necessary to get up + steam. In the ordinary course of things, we should probably + have had sufficient patience to wait for the return of the + breeze; but the recent large addition to our party made it + desirable for us to lose as little time as possible in reaching + Sandy Point. Another grand but wild-looking sunset seemed like + the precursor of a storm; but we experienced nothing worse than + a sharp squall of hot wind, accompanied by thunder and + lightning.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, October 1st</i>.—A fine morning, with a + fair wind. At eleven we had a short service, at four a longer + one, with an excellent sermon from Tom, specially adapted to + the rescue of the crew of the burning ship. As usual, the + sunset, which was magnificent, was succeeded by a slight storm, + which passed over without doing us any harm.</p> + + <p>I have said that it was found impossible to save any + provisions from the 'Monkshaven.' As far as the men are + concerned, I think this is hardly to be regretted, for I am + told that the salt beef with which they were supplied had lain + in pickle for so many years that the saltpetre had eaten all + the nourishment out of it, and had made it so hard that the + men, instead of eating it, used to amuse themselves by carving + it into snuff-boxes, little models of ships, &c. I + <span class="pagenum">Page 121<a name="Page_121" + id="Page_121"></a></span> should not, however, omit to + mention that Captain Runciman managed to bring away with him + four excellent York hams, which he presented to us, and one + of which we had to-day at dinner.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, October 4th</i>.—At 6 a.m., on going on + deck I found we were hove-to under steam and closely-reefed + sails, a heavy gale blowing from the south-west, right ahead. + The screw was racing round in the air every time we encountered + an unusually big wave; the spray was dashing over the vessel, + and the water was rushing along the deck—altogether an + uncomfortable morning. As the sun rose, the gale abated, and in + the course of the day the reefs were shaken out of the sails, + one by one, until, by sunset, we were once more under whole + canvas, beating to windward. There were several cries of 'land + ahead' during the day, but in each case a closer examination, + through a glass, proved that the fancied coast-line or + mountain-top existed only in cloud-land.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, October 5th</i>.—We made the land early, + and most uninteresting it looked, consisting, as it did, of a + low sandy shore, with a background of light clay-coloured + cliffs. Not a vestige of vegetation was anywhere to be seen, + and I am quite at a loss to imagine what the guanacos and + ostriches, with which the chart tells us the country hereabouts + abounds, find to live upon. About twelve o'clock we made Cape + Virgins, looking very like Berry Head to the north of Torbay, + and a long spit of low sandy land, stretching out to the + southward, appropriately called Dungeness.</p> + + <p>Some of the charts brought on board by Captain Runciman were + published by Messrs. Imray, of London, and in one of them it is + represented that a fine fixed light has been established on + Cape Virgins<a name="FNanchor_2_2" + id="FNanchor_2_2">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_2_2" + class="fnanchor">[2]</a> This we knew to be an + <span class="pagenum">Page 122<a name="Page_122" + id="Page_122"></a></span>impossibility, not only on account + of the general character of the country, but because no + indication is given of the light in our newest Admiralty + charts. Captain Runciman, however, had more confidence in + the correctness of his own chart, and could hardly believe + his eyes when he saw that the light really had no existence + on the bare bleak headland. His faith was terribly shaken, + and I hope he will not omit to call Messrs. Imray's + attention to the matter on his return home; for the mistake + is most serious, and one which might lead to the destruction + of many a good ship.</p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_2_2" + id="Footnote_2_2"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> + I have since received a letter from Messrs. Imray + requesting me to state that the light was inserted on + erroneous information from the hydrographic office at + Washington, and has since been erased from their + charts.</p> + </div> + + <p>About two o'clock we saw in the far distance what looked at + first like an island, and then like smoke, but gradually shaped + itself into the masts, funnel, and hull of a large steamer. + From her rig we at once guessed her to be the Pacific Company's + mail boat, homeward bound. When near enough, we accordingly + hoisted our number, and signalled 'We wish to communicate,' + whereupon she bore down upon us and ceased steaming. We then + rounded up under her lee and lowered a boat, and Tom, Mabelle, + and I, with Captain Runciman and four or five of the + shipwrecked crew, went on board. Our advent caused great + excitement, and seamen and passengers all crowded into the bows + to watch us. As we approached the ladder the passengers ran + aft, and directly we reached the deck the captain took + possession of Tom, the first and second officers of Mabelle and + myself, while Captain Runciman and each of his crew were + surrounded by a little audience eager to know what had + happened, and all about it. At first it was thought that we all + wanted a passage, but when we explained matters Captain Thomas, + the commander of the 'Illimani,' very kindly undertook to + receive all our refugees and convey them to England. We + therefore sent the gig back for the rest of the men and the + chests of the whole party, and then availed ourselves of the + opportunity afforded by the delay to walk round the ship. It + was most amusing to see the interest with which we were + <span class="pagenum">Page 123<a name="Page_123" + id="Page_123"></a></span>regarded by all on board. + Passengers who had never been seen out of their berths since + leaving Valparaiso, and others who were indulging, at the + time of our visit, in the luxury of a 'day sleep,' between + the twelve o'clock luncheon and four o'clock dinner, + suddenly made their appearance, in dressing-gowns and wraps, + with dishevelled hair and wide-opened eyes, gazing in mute + astonishment at us, quite unable to account for our + mysterious arrival on board in this out-of-the-way spot. A + mail steamer does not stop for a light cause, and it was + therefore evident to them that the present was no ordinary + occurrence. The captain told us that the last time he passed + through the Straits he picked up two boats' crews, who had + escaped from a burning ship, and who had suffered + indescribable hardships before they were rescued.</p> + + <p>Captain Runciman is convinced, after comparing notes with + the chief officer of the 'Illimani,' that the vessel which + refused to notice his signal of distress was the 'Wilmington,' + sent down from New York, with a party of forty wreckers, to try + and get the steamer 'Georgia' off the rocks near Port Famine, + in the Straits of Magellan. If this be so, it is the more + surprising that no attempt was made to render assistance to the + 'Monkshaven,' provided her signals were understood, as the + 'Wilmington' had plenty of spare hands, and could not have been + in a particular hurry. Moreover, one would think that, with her + powerful engines, she might have made an attempt to tow the + distressed vessel into Monte Video, and so secure three or four + thousand pounds of salvage money.</p> + + <p>The captain of the 'Illimani' kindly gave us half a bullock, + killed this morning, a dozen live ducks and chickens, and the + latest newspapers. Thus supplied with food for body and mind, + we said farewell, and returned to the 'Sunbeam;' our ensigns + were duly dipped, we steamed away on our respective courses, + and in less than an hour we were out of sight of each other. It + is a sudden change <span class="pagenum">Page + 124<a name="Page_124" + id="Page_124"></a></span>for the 'Monkshaven' men, who were + all very reluctant to leave the yacht. Many of them broke + down at the last moment, particularly when it came to saying + good-bye to Tom and me, at the gangway of the steamer. They + had seemed thoroughly to appreciate any kindnesses they + received while with us, and were anxious to show their + gratitude in every possible way. The two boys, especially, + were in great grief at their departure, and were very loth + to part with their boatswain, who remains with us to make up + our complement<a name="FNanchor_3_3" + id="FNanchor_3_3">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_3_3" + class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_3_3" + id="Footnote_3_3"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> + After our return to England the following letter reached + us from Messrs. Smales:—</p> + + <p class="author">'Whitby, June 30th, 1877.</p> + + <p>'THOMAS BRASSEY, Esq.</p> + + <p>'DEAR SIR,—Observing by the newspapers that you + have returned home after your cruise, we take this + opportunity of thanking you most heartily for the valuable + assistance you rendered to the crew of our late barque + "Monkshaven," in lat. 43 28 S., lon. 62 21 W., after she + proved to be on fire and beyond saving. Your kind favour of + October 1 last duly reached us, and it was very + satisfactory to know from an authority like your own, that + all was done under the trying circumstances that was + possible, to save the ship and cargo. The inconvenience of + having so many extra hands for the time on board your + vessel, must have tried your resources; but you will be + probably aware that the Board of Trade willingly compensate + for loss sustained in rescuing a crew, when a claim is + made. You will be glad to learn that the master and crew + arrived all well, in due course, at Liverpool, by the + "Illimani," and were very grateful for your kindness to + them. Our ill-fated vessel must have sunk very soon after + you took off the crew, as nothing more has been heard of + her, and it was a most fortunate circumstance that you were + so near at hand, more especially as the captain reported to + us, that a vessel carrying the American colours took no + notice of his signal of distress. As shipowners, we + generally find that our own countrymen are more heroic, and + always ready to lend a helping hand to brother mariners in + distress, so that, as you say, we do not doubt you + experienced some satisfaction in rendering this + service.—Trusting that you have enjoyed your trip, we + beg to remain yours, truly obliged,</p> + + <p class="author">'SMALES Brothers.'</p> + </div> + + <p>About 8 p.m. we anchored for the night in Possession Bay. It + was thick at sunset, but afterwards clear and cold, with a + splendid moon.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, October 6th</i>.—We got under way at 5.30 + a.m., and steamed past the low sandy coast of Patagonia and the + rugged mountains of Tierra del Fuego, and through the First and + Second Narrows, to Cape Negro, where the + <span class="pagenum">Page 125<a name="Page_125" + id="Page_125"></a></span>character of the scenery began to + improve a little, the vegetation gradually changing from low + scrubby brushwood to respectable-sized trees. When passing + between Elizabeth Island, so named by Sir Francis Drake, and + the island of Santa Madalena, we looked in vain for the + myriads of seals, otters, and sea-lions with which this + portion of the Straits is said to abound; but we saw only + seven or eight little black spots on the shore, in the + distance, which disappeared into the sea as we + approached.</p> + + <p>At 3 p.m. we reached Sandy Point, the only civilised place + in the Straits. It is a Chilian settlement, and a large convict + establishment has been formed here by the Government. Almost + before we had dropped our anchor, the harbour-master came on + board, closely followed by the officers of the two Chilian + men-of-war lying in the harbour. The rain, which had been + threatening all day, now descended in torrents, and we landed + in a perfect downpour. We thought the pier at Buenos Ayres + unsafe and rickety, but here matters were still worse, for the + head of the structure had been completely washed away by a + gale, and no little care was necessary in order to step across + the broken timbers in safety. The town, which contains between + 1,200 and 1,300 inhabitants, is composed entirely of + one-storied log huts, with slate or tile roofs, and with or + without verandahs. They are all arranged in squares, separated + from each other by wide roads; and the whole settlement is + surrounded by stockades. At the further end of the town stands + the convict prison, distinguished by its tower, and the + Governor's house, which, though built of wood, is the most + pretentious-looking edifice in the place. There is a nice + little church close by, and some tidy-looking barracks.</p> + + <p>We went straight to the house of the British Vice-Consul, + who received us very kindly, and promised to do what he could + to assist us in obtaining supplies; but the resources of the + place are limited, and eggs, ship's beef + <span class="pagenum">Page 126<a name="Page_126" + id="Page_126"></a></span>and biscuits, and water, will, I + expect, be the sum total of what we shall be able to + procure. In fact, it is rather doubtful whether we shall + even be able to renew our stock of coal. In the meantime we + started off to potter about the town, finding, however, very + little to amuse us. There were some new-laid ostrich eggs to + be bought, and some queer-looking worked Patagonian + saddle-bags.</p> + + <p>I fear we shall not see any of the Patagonians themselves, + for they come to the colony only three or four times a year, to + purchase supplies, and to sell skins and ostrich eggs. They are + a mounted tribe of Indians, living on the northern plains, and + are now on their way down here, to pay one of their periodical + visits; but, being encumbered with their families, they move + very slowly, and are not expected to arrive for another ten + days. They will no doubt bring a splendid supply of skins, just + too late for us, which is rather disappointing, particularly as + we are not likely to have another opportunity of meeting with + them at any of the places we touch at. They live so far in the + interior of the country that they very seldom visit the + coast.</p> + + <p>We went to see three Fuegian females, who are living in a + house belonging to the medical officer of the colony. They were + picked up a short time since by a passing steamer from a canoe, + in which they had evidently sought refuge from some kind of + cruelty or oppression. The biggest of them, a stout + fine-looking woman, had a terrible gash in her leg, quite + recently inflicted, and the youngest was not more than eight + years old. They appeared cheerful and happy, but we were told + that they are not likely to live long. After the free life and + the exposure to which they have been accustomed, + civilisation—in the shape of clothing and hot + houses—almost always kills them. Their lungs become + diseased, and they die miserably. Their skin is slightly + copper-coloured, their complexions high-coloured, their hair + thick and black; and, though certainly not handsome, + <span class="pagenum">Page 127<a name="Page_127" + id="Page_127"></a></span>they are by no means so repulsive + as I had expected from the descriptions of Cook, Dampier, + Darwin, and other more recent travellers.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_142" + id="Illus_142"></a> <img src="images/t_142.jpg" + width="240" + height="172" + alt="Illustration: Fuegian Weapons" + title="Illustration: Fuegian Weapons" /><br /> + <b>Fuegian Weapons</b><br /> + <a href="images/142.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Saturday, October 7th</i>.—My birthday. Tom gave me + a beautiful guanaco-skin robe, and the children presented me + with two ostrich rugs. The guanaco is a kind of large deer, and + it is said that the robes made from its skin are the warmest in + the world. People here assure me that, with the hair turned + inside, these robes have afforded them sufficient protection to + enable them to sleep in comfort in the open air, exposed to + snow, frost, and rain. They are made from the skin of the young + fawns, killed before they are thirteen days old, or, better + still, from the skins of those which have never had an + independent existence. In colour, the animals are a yellowish + brown on the back, and white underneath, and they are so small + that when each skin is split up it produces only two triangular + patches, about the size of one's hand. A number of these are + then, with infinite trouble, sewed neatly together by the + Indian women, who use the fine leg-sinews of the ostrich as + thread. Those worn by the caciques, or chiefs, have generally a + pattern in the centre, a brown edging, and spots + <span class="pagenum">Page 128<a name="Page_128" + id="Page_128"></a></span> of red and blue paint on the part + which is worn outwards. Such robes are particularly + difficult to obtain, on account of the labour and time + necessary to produce them. Each cacique keeps several wives + constantly employed in making them, of the best as well as + of the ordinary description. The ostrich rugs, which are + made here, are more ornamental, though not so warm and light + as the guanaco robes. They are made of the entire skin of + the ostrich, from which the long wing-feathers have been + pulled out. Mabelle has been given a beautiful little rug + composed of the skins of thirty little ostriches, all from + one nest, killed when they were a fortnight old, each skin + resembling a prettily marked ball of fluff.</p> + + <p>At eleven o'clock we went ashore. The Governor had kindly + provided horses for all the party, and while they were being + saddled I took some photographs. There are plenty of horses + here, but the only saddles and bridles to be had are those used + by the natives. The saddles are very cumbrous and clumsy to + look at, though rather picturesque. They are formed of two bits + of wood, covered with about a dozen sheepskins and ponchos; not + at all uncomfortable to ride in, and very suitable for a + night's bivouac in the open. 'Plenty of nice soft rugs to lie + upon and cover yourself with, instead of a hard English saddle + for your bed and stirrups for blankets,' as a native once said, + when asked which he preferred. About one o'clock we started, + accompanied by the officers commanding the garrison and two + attendant cavaliers, equipped in Chilian style, with enormous + carved modern stirrups, heavy bits and spurs much bigger than + those whose size struck us so much in the Argentine Republic. + We had a pleasant ride, first across a sandy plain and through + one or two small rivers, to a saw-mill, situated on the edge of + an extensive forest, through which we proceeded for some miles. + The road was a difficult one, and our progress was but slow, + being often impeded by a morass or by the trunk of a tree which + had <span class="pagenum">Page 129<a name="Page_129" + id="Page_129"></a></span>fallen right across the path, and + was now rapidly rotting into touchwood under the influence + of the damp atmosphere and incessant rain. Lichens of every + colour and shape abounded, and clothed the trunks + gracefully, contrasting with the tender spring tints of the + leaves, while the long hairy tillandsia, like an old man's + beard, three or four feet long, hung down from the topmost + branches. The ground was carpeted with moss, interspersed + with a few early spring flowers, and the whole scene, though + utterly unlike that presented by any English forest, had a + strange weird beauty of its own. Not a sound could be heard; + not a bird, beast, or insect was to be seen. The larger + trees were principally a peculiar sort of beech and red + cedar, but all kinds of evergreens, known to us at home as + shrubs, such as laurestine, and various firs, here attain + the proportions of forest-trees. There is also a tree called + Winter's Bark (<i>Drimys Winteri</i>), the leaves and bark + of which are hot and bitter, and form an excellent + substitute for quinine. But the most striking objects were + the evergreen berberis and mahonia, and the Darwinia, the + larger sort of which was covered with brilliant orange, + almost scarlet, flowers, which hung down in bunches, of the + shape and size of small outdoor grapes.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_144" + id="Illus_144"></a> <img src="images/t_144.jpg" + width="240" + height="65" + alt="Illustration: Fuegian Bow and Arrows" + title="Illustration: Fuegian Bow and Arrows" /><br /> + <b>Fuegian Bow and Arrows</b><br /> + <a href="images/144.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>On our way back we took a sharp turn leading to the + sea-shore, to which the forest extends in places, and rode + along the beach towards the town. It was low water, or this + would not have been possible, and as it was, we often had + considerable difficulty in making our way between wood and + water. The day was bright and clear, with a bitterly cold wind + and occasional heavy showers of rain; a + <span class="pagenum">Page 130<a name="Page_130" + id="Page_130"></a></span>fair average day for Sandy Point. + It is further west, they say, that the weather is so + hopeless. Lieutenant Byron, in his terribly interesting + account of the wreck of the 'Wager,' says that one fine day + in three months is the most that can be expected. I wonder, + not without misgivings, if we really shall encounter all the + bad weather we not only read of but hear of from every one + we meet. Though very anxious to see the celebrated Straits, + I shall not be sorry when we are safely through, and I trust + that the passage may not occupy the whole of the three weeks + which Tom has been advised to allow for it.</p> + + <p>We saw a few sea-birds, specially some 'steamer-ducks,' so + called from their peculiar mode of progression through the + water. They neither swim nor fly, but use their wings like the + paddles of a steamer, with a great noise and splutter, and go + along very fast. On reaching the plains we had an opportunity + of testing the speed of our horses, which warmed us up a little + after our slow progress by the water's edge in the bitter wind. + We rode all round the stockades, outside the town, before + dismounting; but I saw nothing of special interest. Before the + party broke up, arrangements were made for us to go to morrow + to one of the Government corrals, to see the cattle lassoed and + branded—an operation which is always performed twice a + year.</p> + + <p>We reached the yacht again at half-past five. Dr. Fenton + came on board to dinner, and from him we heard a great deal + about the colony, the Patagonians or Horse Indians, and the + Fuegians or Canoe Indians. The former inhabit, or rather roam + over, a vast tract of country. They are almost constantly on + horseback, and their only shelter consists of toldos, or tents, + made of the skins of the old guanacos, stretched across a few + poles. They are tall and strong, averaging six feet in height, + and are bulky in proportion; but their size is nothing like so + great as old travellers have represented. Both men and women + wear a long flowing mantle of skins, <span class="pagenum">Page + 131<a name="Page_131" + id="Page_131"></a></span>reaching from the waist to the + ankle, with a large loose piece hanging down on one side, + ready to be thrown over their heads whenever necessary, + which is fastened by a large flat pin hammered out either + from the rough silver or from a dollar. This, their sole + garment, has the effect of adding greatly in appearance to + their height. They never wash, but daub their bodies with + paint and grease, especially the women. Their only weapons + are knives and bolas, the latter of which they throw with + unerring precision. During their visits to the Sandy Point + settlement their arms are always taken from them, for they + are extremely quarrelsome, particularly when drunk. Nobody + has been able to ascertain that they possess any form of + sacred belief, or that they perform any religious + ceremonies. Their food consists principally of the flesh of + mares, troops of which animals always accompany them on + their excursions. They also eat ostrich-flesh, which is + considered a great delicacy, as well as the fish the women + catch, and the birds' eggs they find. Vegetable food is + almost unknown to them, and bread is never used, though they + do sometimes purchase a little flour, rice, and a few + biscuits, on the occasion of their visits to the colony.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_146" + id="Illus_146"></a> <img src="images/t_146.jpg" + width="240" + height="95" + alt="Illustration: Pin for fastening Cloak, made from a Dollar, beaten out" + title="Illustration: Pin for fastening Cloak, made from a Dollar, beaten out" /> + <br /> + <b>Pin for fastening Cloak, made from a Dollar, beaten + out</b><br /> + <a href="images/146.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>The Fuegians, or Canoe Indians, as they are generally + called, from their living so much on the water, and having no + settled habitations on shore, are a much smaller race of + savages, inhabiting Tierra del Fuego—literally Land of + Fire—so called from the custom the inhabitants have of + lighting fires on prominent points as signals of assembly. + <span class="pagenum">Page 132<a name="Page_132" + id="Page_132"></a></span>The English residents here + invariably call it Fireland—a name I had never heard + before, and which rather puzzled me at first. Whenever it is + observed that a ship is in distress, or that shipwrecked + mariners have been cast ashore, the signal-fires appear as + if by magic, and the natives flock together like vultures + round a carcase. On the other hand, if all goes well, + vessels often pass through the Straits without seeing a + single human being, the savages and their canoes lying + concealed beneath the overhanging branches of trees on the + shore. They are cannibals, and are placed by Darwin in the + lowest scale of humanity. An old author describes them as + 'magpies in chatter, baboons in countenance, and imps in + treachery.' Those frequenting the eastern end of the Straits + wear—if they wear anything at all—a deerskin + mantle, descending to the waist: those at the western end + wear cloaks made from the skin of the sea-otter. But most of + them are quite naked. Their food is of the most meagre + description, and consists mainly of shell-fish, sea-eggs, + for which the women dive with much dexterity, and fish, + which they train their dogs to assist them in catching. + These dogs are sent into the water at the entrance to a + narrow creek or small bay, and they then bark and flounder + about and drive the fish before them into shallow water, + where they are caught.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_147" + id="Illus_147"></a> <img src="images/t_147.jpg" + width="240" + height="82" + alt="Illustration: Fuegian Boat and Oars" + title="Illustration: Fuegian Boat and Oars" /><br /> + <b>Fuegian Boat and Oars</b><br /> + <a href="images/147.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>Bishop Stirling, of the Falkland Islands, has been cruising + about these parts in a small schooner, and visiting the + natives, for the last twelve years, and the Governor here tells + us that he has done much good in promoting + <span class="pagenum">Page 133<a name="Page_133" + id="Page_133"></a></span>their civilisation; while the + hardships he has endured, and the difficulties and dangers + he has surmounted, have required almost superhuman energy + and fortitude on his part. The Fuegians, as far as is known, + have no religion of their own.</p> + + <p>The 'Wilmington' came in this morning. Her captain declares + that as the 'Monkshaven' was not hove-to, he never thought that + there could be anything seriously amiss with her. His glass was + not good enough to enable him to make out the union-jack + reversed, or the signal of distress, which he therefore + supposed to be merely the ship's number. It was satisfactory to + hear this explanation; and as not only the interests of + humanity, but his own, were involved, there is every reason to + believe that his account of the transaction is perfectly + true.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 134<a name="Page_134" + id="Page_134"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_IX" + id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">SANDY POINT TO LOTA BAY.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>And far abroad the canvas wings + extend</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Along the glassy + plain the vessel glides</i>,<br /></span> + <span><i>While azure radiance trembles on her + sides</i>.<br /></span> <span><i>The lunar rays in long + reflection gleam</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>With silver + deluging the fluid stream</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Sunday, October 8th</i>.—At 6 a.m. we weighed + anchor, and proceeded on our voyage. At first there was not + much to admire in the way of scenery, the shores being low and + sandy, with occasional patches of scrubby brushwood, and a + background of granite rocks and mountains.</p> + + <p>Soon after passing Port Famine we saw the bold outline of + Cape Froward, the southernmost point of South America, + stretching into the Straits. It is a fine headland, and Tom + ordered the engines to be stopped in order to enable Mr. + Bingham to sketch, and me to photograph, both it and the + splendid view back through the channel we had just traversed to + the snowy range of mountains in the distance, crowned by Mount + Sarmiento, not unlike the Matterhorn in appearance.</p> + + <p>At this point the weather generally changes, and I suppose + we must look forward to living in mackintoshes for some little + time to come.</p> + + <p>In the afternoon, when in English Reach, where many vessels + have been lost, great excitement was caused on board by the + appearance of a canoe on our port bow. She was stealing out + from the Barbara Channel, and as she appeared to be making + direct for us, Tom ordered the <span class="pagenum">Page + 135<a name="Page_135" + id="Page_135"></a></span>engines to be slowed. Her occupants + thereupon redoubled their efforts, and came paddling towards + us, shouting and making the most frantic gesticulations, one + man waving a skin round his head with an amount of energy + that threatened to upset the canoe. This frail craft, upon a + nearer inspection, proved to be made only of rough planks, + rudely tied together with the sinews of animals; in fact, + one of the party had to bale constantly, in order to keep + her afloat. We flung them a rope, and they came alongside, + shouting 'Tabáco, galléta' (biscuit), a supply + of which we threw down to them, in exchange for the skins + they had been waving; whereupon the two men stripped + themselves of the skin mantles they were wearing, made of + eight or ten sea-otter skins sewed together with finer + sinews than those used for the boat, and handed them up, + clamouring <span class="pagenum">Page 136<a name="Page_136" + id="Page_136"></a></span>for more tobacco, which we gave + them, together with some beads and + knives<a name="FNanchor_4_4" + id="FNanchor_4_4">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_4_4" + class="fnanchor">[4]</a> Finally, the woman, influenced by + this example, parted with her sole garment, in return for a + little more tobacco, some beads, and some looking-glasses I + had thrown into the canoe.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_150" + id="Illus_150"></a> <img src="images/t_150.jpg" + width="240" + height="209" + alt="Illustration: Bartering with Fuegians" + title="Illustration: Bartering with Fuegians" /><br /> + <b>Bartering with Fuegians</b><br /> + <a href="images/150.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_4_4" + id="Footnote_4_4"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> + These skins proved to be the very finest quality ever + plucked, and each separate skin was valued in England at + from 4<i>l</i>. to 5<i>l</i>.</p> + </div> + + <p>The party consisted of a man, a woman, and a lad; and I + think I never saw delight more strongly depicted than it was on + the faces of the two latter, when they handled, for the first + time in their lives probably, some strings of blue, red, and + green glass beads. They had two rough pots, made of bark, in + the boat, which they also sold, after which they reluctantly + departed, quite naked but very happy, shouting and jabbering + away in the most inarticulate language imaginable. It was with + great difficulty we could make them let go the rope, when we + went ahead, and I was quite afraid they would be upset. They + were all fat and healthy-looking, and, though not handsome, + their appearance was by no means repulsive; the countenance of + the woman, especially, wore quite a pleasing expression, when + lighted up with smiles at the sight of the beads and + looking-glasses. The bottom of their canoe was covered with + branches, amongst which the ashes of a recent fire were + distinguishable. Their paddles were of the very roughest + description, consisting simply of split branches of trees, with + wider pieces tied on at one end with the sinews of birds or + beasts.</p> + + <p>Steaming ahead, past Port Gallant, we had a glorious view + over Carlos III. Island and Thornton Peaks, until, at about + seven o clock, we anchored in the little harbour of Borja Bay. + This place is encircled by luxuriant vegetation, overhanging + the water, and is set like a gem amid the granite rocks close + at hand, and the far-distant snowy mountains.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_152" + id="Illus_152"></a> <img src="images/t_152.jpg" + width="240" + height="202" + alt="Illustration: Thornton Peaks" + title="Illustration: Thornton Peaks" /><br /> + <b>Thornton Peaks</b><br /> + <a href="images/152.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 137<a name="Page_137" + id="Page_137"></a></span></p> + + <p>Our carpenter had prepared a board, on which the name of the + yacht and the date had been painted, to be fixed on shore, as a + record of our visit; and as soon as the anchor was down we all + landed, the gentlemen with their guns, and the crew fully armed + with pistols and rifles, in case of accident. The water was + quite deep close to the shore, and we had no difficulty in + landing, near a small waterfall. To penetrate far inland, + however, was not so easy, owing to the denseness of the + vegetation. Large trees had fallen, and, rotting where they + lay, under the influence of the humid atmosphere, had become + the birthplace of thousands of other trees, shrubs, plants, + ferns, mosses, and lichens. In fact, in some places we might + almost be said to be walking on the tops of the trees, and + first one and then another of the party found his feet suddenly + slipping through into unknown depths below. Under these + circumstances we <span class="pagenum">Page + 138<a name="Page_138" + id="Page_138"></a></span>were contented with a very short + ramble, and having filled our baskets with a varied + collection of mosses and ferns, we returned to the shore, + where we found many curious shells and some excellent + mussels. While we had been thus engaged, the carpenter and + some of the crew were employed in nailing up our board on a + tree we had selected for the purpose. It was in company with + the names of many good ships, a portion of which only were + still legible, many of the boards having fallen to the + ground and become quite rotten.</p> + + <p>Near the beach we found the remains of a recent fire, and in + the course of the night the watch on deck, which was doubled + and well-armed, heard shouts and hoots proceeding from the + neighbourhood of the shore. Towards morning, too, the fire was + relighted, from which it was evident that the natives were not + far off, though they did not actually put in an appearance. I + suppose they think there is a probability of making something + out of us by fair means, and that, unlike a sealing schooner, + with only four or five hands on board, and no motive power but + her sails, we are rather too formidable to attack.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, October 9th</i>.—We are indeed most + fortunate in having another fine day. At 6 a.m. the anchor was + weighed, and we resumed our journey. It was very cold; but that + was not to be wondered at, surrounded as we are on every side + by magnificent snow-clad mountains and superb glaciers. First + we passed Snowy Sound, in Tierra del Fuego, at the head of + which is an immense blue glacier. Then came Cape Notch, so + called from its looking as if it had had a piece chopped out of + it. Within a few yards of the surrounding glaciers, and close + to the sea, the vegetation is abundant, and in many places + semi-tropical, a fact which is due to the comparatively mild + winters, the temperate summers, the moist climate, and the rich + soil of these parts. Passing up English Reach, we now caught + our first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean, between Cape Pillar on + one <span class="pagenum">Page 139<a name="Page_139" + id="Page_139"></a></span>side, and Westminster Hall, Shell + Bay, and Lecky Point, on the other. Steering to the north, + and leaving these on our left hand, we issued from the + Straits of Magellan, and entered Smyth's Channel, first + passing Glacier Bay and Ice Sound, names which speak for + themselves. Mount Joy, Mount Burney, with its round + snow-covered summit, rising six thousand feet from the + water, and several unnamed peaks, were gradually left + behind; until, at last, after threading a labyrinth of small + islands, we anchored for the night in Otter Bay, a snug + little cove, at the entrance to the intricacies of the Mayne + Channel.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_154" + id="Illus_154"></a> <img src="images/t_154.jpg" + width="148" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Glaciers. Snowy Sound" + title="Illustration: Glaciers. Snowy Sound" /><br /> + <b>Glaciers. Snowy Sound</b><br /> + <a href="images/154.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>It was almost dark when we arrived, but the children, + Captain Brown, and I, went on shore for a short time, and + <span class="pagenum">Page 140<a name="Page_140" + id="Page_140"></a></span>gathered a few ferns and mosses. We + also found the embers of a fire, which showed that the + natives were not far off, and we therefore thought it + prudent to hurry on board again before nightfall. No names + of ships were to be seen; but, in our search for ferns, we + may possibly have overlooked them. We have not come across + any Fuegians to-day, though in two of the places we have + passed—Shell Bay and Deep Harbour, where a few wigwams + are left standing as a sort of head-quarters—they are + generally to be met with. During the night the watch again + heard the natives shouting; but no attempt was made to + re-light the fire we had noticed, until we were steaming out + of the bay the next morning.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, October 10th</i>.—In the early morning, + when we resumed our voyage, the weather was still fine; but a + few light clouds were here and there visible, and an icy wind, + sweeping down from the mountains, made it appear very cold, + though the thermometer—which averages, I think, 40° + to 50° all the year round—was not really low. The + line of perpetual snow commences here at an elevation of from + 2,500 to 3,500 feet only, which adds greatly to the beauty of + the scene; and as it is now early spring the snow is still + unmelted, 500 feet, and even less, from the shore. The + stupendous glaciers run right down into the sea, and immense + masses of ice, sometimes larger than a ship, are continually + breaking off, with a noise like thunder, and falling into the + water, sending huge waves across to the opposite shore, and + sometimes completely blocking up the channels. Some of these + glaciers, composed entirely of blue and green ice and the + purest snow, are fifteen and twenty miles in length. They are + by far the finest we have, any of us, ever seen; and even those + of Norway and Switzerland sink into comparative insignificance + beside them. The mountains here are not so high as those of + Europe, but they really appear more lofty, as their entire + surface, from the water's edge to the extreme summit, is + clearly visible. At this end of the Straits they + <span class="pagenum">Page 141<a name="Page_141" + id="Page_141"></a></span>terminate in peaks, resembling + Gothic spires, carved in the purest snow; truly 'virgin + peaks,' on which the eye of man has but seldom rested, and + which his foot has never touched. They are generally veiled + in clouds of snow, mist, and driving rain, and it is quite + the exception to see them as distinctly as we now do.</p> + + <p>After leaving Mayne's Channel, and passing through Union and + Collingwood Sounds, we found ourselves beneath the shadow of + the splendid Cordilleras of Sarmiento—quite distinct from + Mount Sarmiento, already referred to—along the foot of + which extended the largest glacier we have yet + seen<a name="FNanchor_5_5" + id="FNanchor_5_5">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_5_5" + class="fnanchor">[5]</a> With Tarleton Pass on our right + hand, and Childer's Pass on the left, we came in sight of + Owen's Island, one extremity of which is called Mayne Head, + and the other Cape Brassey, these places having all been so + named by Captain Mayne, during his survey in the 'Nassau,' + in 1869. Near the island of Esperanza, the clouds having by + that time completely cleared away, and the sun shining + brightly, we had a splendid view of another range of snowy + mountains, with Stoke's Monument towering high in their + midst. The numerous floating icebergs added greatly to the + exquisite beauty of the scene. Some loomed high as + mountains, while others had melted into the most fanciful + and fairy-like shapes—huge swans, full-rigged ships, + schooners under full sail, and a hundred other fantastic + forms and devices. The children were in ecstasies at the + sight of them.</p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_5_5" + id="Footnote_5_5"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> + I should explain that the names of places in these + Straits frequently occur in duplicate, and even + triplicate, which is rather confusing.</p> + </div> + + <p>As we gradually opened out our anchorage—Puerto + Bueno—we found a steamer already lying there, which + proved to be the 'Dacia,' telegraph ship, just in from the + Pacific coast. Having dropped our anchor at about 5 p.m., we + all went on shore, armed as before, some of the gentlemen + hoping to find a stray duck or two, at a fresh-water + <span class="pagenum">Page 142<a name="Page_142" + id="Page_142"></a></span> lake, a little way inland. We met + several of the officers of the 'Dacia,' who, being the first + comers, did the honours of the place, and told us all they + knew about it. The vegetation was as luxuriant and beautiful + as usual—in fact, rather more so; for we are now + advancing northwards at the rate of about a hundred miles a + day. There were no ducks in the lake, but we enjoyed the + scramble alongside it, to the point where it falls over some + rocks into the sea. The gig was drawn under this waterfall, + and having been loaded to her thwarts, with about three tons + and a half of excellent water, she was then towed off to the + yacht, where the water was emptied into our tanks, which + were thus filled to the brim. A small iceberg, also towed + alongside, afforded us a supply of ice; and we were thus + cheaply provided with a portion of the requisite supplies + for our voyage. The 'Dacia' had an iceberg half as big as + herself lying alongside her, and all hands were at work + until late at night, aided by the light of lanterns and + torches, chopping the ice up and stowing it away.</p> + + <p>Our boat being thus engaged, we were obliged to wait on + shore until long past dark; but as we were a large and strong + party, it did not much matter. Our men amused themselves by + collecting a number of large and excellent mussels, some of + which, distinguishable by the peculiar appearance of their + shells, arising from a diseased condition of the fish, + contained from ten to thirty very small seed pearls. The + captain of the 'Dacia' came to dinner, and the officers in the + evening; and they gave us much valuable information about the + anchorages further up the Straits, and many other things. The + captain kindly gave Tom all his Chilian charts of the Darien + Channel, which has not yet been fully surveyed by the English + Government, though the 'Nassau' passed through in 1869.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, October 11th</i>.—I never in my life saw + anything so beautiful as the view when I came on deck this + <span class="pagenum">Page 143<a name="Page_143" + id="Page_143"></a></span>morning, at a quarter to five. The + moon was shining, large and golden, high in the heavens; the + rosy streaks of dawn were just tinging the virgin snow on + the highest peaks with faint but ever-deepening colour; + whilst all around, the foliage, rocks, and icebergs were + still wrapped in the deepest shade. As the sun rose, the + pink summits of the mountains changed to gold and yellow, + and then to dazzling white, as the light crept down into the + valleys, illuminating all the dark places, and bringing out + the shades of olive-greens, greys, and purples, in the most + wonderful contrasts and combinations of colour. The grandeur + of the scene increased with every revolution of the screw, + and when fairly in the Guia narrows we were able to stop and + admire it a little more at our leisure, Mr. Bingham making + some sketches, while I took some photographs. To describe + the prospect in detail is quite impossible. Imagine the + grandest Alpine scene you ever saw, with tall snowy peaks + and pinnacles rising from huge domed tops, and vast fields + of unbroken snow; glaciers, running down <i>into</i> the + sea, at the heads of the various bays; each bank and + promontory richly clothed with vegetation of every shade of + green; bold rocks and noble cliffs, covered with many-hued + lichens; the floating icebergs; the narrow channel itself, + blue as the sky above, dotted with small islands, each a + mass of verdure, and reflecting on its glassy surface every + object with such distinctness that it was difficult to say + where the reality ended and the image began. I have seen a + photograph of the Mirror Lake, in California, which, as far + as I know, is the only thing that could possibly give one an + idea of the marvellous effect of these reflections. Unfit + Bay, on Chatham Island, looking towards the mountains near + Pill Channel, and Ladder Hill, which looks as if a flight of + steps had been cut upon its face, were perhaps two of the + most striking points amid all this loveliness.</p> + + <p>All too soon came the inevitable order to steam ahead; and + once more resuming our course, we passed through + <span class="pagenum">Page 144<a name="Page_144" + id="Page_144"></a></span>Innocents and Conception Channels, + and entered Wide Channel, which is frequently blocked up + with ice at this time of year, though to-day we only met + with a few icebergs on their way down from Eyre Sound.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_159" + id="Illus_159"></a> <img src="images/t_159.jpg" + width="232" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Unfit Bay" + title="Illustration: Unfit Bay" /><br /> + <b>Unfit Bay</b><br /> + <a href="images/159.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>I have already referred to the extraordinary shapes assumed + by some of the mountain peaks. That appropriately called + Singular Peak—on Chatham Island—and Two-peak + Mountain and Cathedral Mountain—both on Wellington + Island—specially attracted our attention to-day. The + first-named presents a wonderful appearance, from whichever + side you view it; the second reminds one of the beautiful + double spires at Tours; while the last resembles the tapering + spire of a cathedral, rising from a long roof, covered with + delicate towers, fret-work, and angles. In + <span class="pagenum">Page 145<a name="Page_145" + id="Page_145"></a></span>Wide Channel we felt really + compelled to stop again to admire some of the unnamed + mountains. One we christened Spire Mountain, to distinguish + it from the rest; it consisted of a single needle-like + point, piercing deep into the blue vault of heaven, and + surrounded by a cluster of less lofty but equally sharp + pinnacles. This group rose from a vast chain of exquisitely + tinted snow-peaks, that looked almost as if they rested on + the vast glacier beneath, seamed with dark blue and green + crevasses and fissures.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_160" + id="Illus_160"></a> <img src="images/t_160.jpg" + width="240" + height="196" + alt="Illustration: Two-peaked Mountain" + title="Illustration: Two-peaked Mountain" /><br /> + <b>Two-peaked Mountain</b><br /> + <a href="images/160.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>All this time the weather continued perfect. Not a cloud was + to be seen, the sun was hot and bright, and the sky was blue + enough to rival that of classic Italy. If we could but be sure + that this delightful state of things would continue, how + pleasant it would be, to stop and explore some of these places. + We have, however, been so frequently warned of the possibility + of detention for days and even <span class="pagenum">Page + 146<a name="Page_146" + id="Page_146"></a></span>weeks at anchor, owing to bad + weather, that we are hurrying on as fast as we can, + expecting that every day will bring the much-dreaded deluge, + gale, or fog. In thick weather it is simply impossible to + proceed; and if it comes on suddenly, as it generally does, + and finds you far from an anchorage, there is nothing to be + done but to heave-to and wait till it clears, sending a + party ashore if possible to light a fire, to serve as a + landmark, and so enable you to maintain your position. How + thankful I am that we have been hitherto able to make the + passage under such favourable circumstances! It has been a + vision of beauty and variety, the recollection of which can + never be effaced.</p> + + <p>Europe Inlet, on our right, going up Wide Channel, was full + of ice. Husband's Inlet looked as if it was frozen over at the + farther end, and Penguin Inlet seemed quite choked up with huge + hummocks and blocks of ice. Tom therefore decided not to + attempt the passage of Icy Reach, for fear of being stopped, + but to go round Saumarez Island to Port Grappler by way of + Chasm Reach, rather a longer route. It was a happy decision; + for nothing could exceed the weird impressive splendour of this + portion of the Straits. We were passing through a deep gloomy + mountain gorge, with high perpendicular cliffs on either side. + Below, all was wrapped in the deepest shade. Far above, the sun + gilded the snowy peaks and many-tinted foliage with his + departing light, that slowly turned to rose-colour ere the + shades of evening crept over all, and the stars began to peep + out, one by one. We could trace from the summit to the base of + a lofty mountain the course of a stupendous avalanche, which + had recently rushed down into the sea, crushing and destroying + everything in its way, and leaving a broad track of desolation + behind it. It must for a time have completely filled up the + narrow channel; and woe to any unfortunate vessel that might + happen to be there at such a moment!</p> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 147<a name="Page_147" + id="Page_147"></a></span>Port Grappler is rather a difficult + place to make in the dark; but Tom managed it with much + dexterity, and by eight o'clock we were safely anchored for + the night. We all wanted Tom to stay here to-morrow to get + some rest, which he much needs, but he has determined to + start at five o'clock in the morning as usual, for fear of + being caught by bad weather. Even I, who have of course had + no anxiety as to the navigation, felt so fatigued from + having been on the bridge the whole day since very early + this morning, that I went straight to bed before dinner, in + order to be ready for to-morrow.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_162" + id="Illus_162"></a> <img src="images/t_162.jpg" + width="240" + height="144" + alt="Illustration: Indian Reach" + title="Illustration: Indian Reach" /><br /> + <b>Indian Reach</b><br /> + <a href="images/162.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Thursday, October 12th</i>.—A day as perfect as + yesterday succeeded a clear cold night. We weighed anchor at + 5.15 a.m., and, retracing our course for a few miles, passed + round the end of Saumarez Island, and entered the narrow + channel leading to Indian Reach. The greatest care is here + necessary, to avoid several sunken rocks, which have already + proved fatal to many ships, a large German steamer having been + wrecked as recently as last year. The smooth but treacherous + surface of the channel reflected sharply the cliffs and + foliage, and its mirror-like stillness was only + <span class="pagenum">Page 148<a name="Page_148" + id="Page_148"></a></span>broken at rare intervals, by the + sudden appearance of a seal in search of a fresh supply of + air, or by the efforts, delayed until the very last moment, + of a few steamer-ducks, gannets, or cormorants, to get out + of our way.</p> + + <p>Having accomplished the passage of Indian Reach in safety, + we were just passing Eden Harbour, when the cry of 'Canoe + ahead!' was raised. A boat was seen paddling out towards us + from behind Moreton Island, containing about half-a-dozen + people, apparently armed with bows and arrows and spears, and + provided with fishing-rods, which projected on either side. One + man was standing up and waving, in a very excited manner, + something which turned out ultimately to be a piece of + cotton-waste. Our engines having been stopped, the canoe came + alongside, and we beheld six wild-looking half-naked + creatures—two men, three women, and a very small boy, who + was crouching over a fire at the bottom of the boat. There were + also four sharp, cheery-looking little dogs, rather like + Esquimaux dogs, only smaller, with prick ears and curly tails, + who were looking over the side and barking vigorously in + response to the salutations of our pugs. One man had on a + square robe of sea-otter skins, thrown over his shoulders, and + laced together in front, two of the women wore sheepskins, and + the rest of the party were absolutely naked. Their black hair + was long and shaggy, and they all clamoured loudly in harsh + guttural tones, accompanied by violent gesticulations, for + 'tabáco' and 'galléta.' We got some ready for + them, and also some beads, knives, and looking-glasses, but + through some mistake they did not manage to get hold of our + rope in time, and as our way carried us ahead they were left + behind. The passage was narrow, and the current strong, and Tom + was anxious to save the tide in the dangerous English Narrows. + We could not, therefore, give them another chance of + communicating with us, and accordingly we went on our way, + followed by what were, I have no doubt, the curses—not + only deep, but <span class="pagenum">Page 149<a name="Page_149" + id="Page_149"></a></span>loud—of the whole party, who + indulged at the same time in the most furious and + threatening gestures. I was quite sorry for their + disappointment at losing their hoped-for luxuries, to say + nothing of our own at missing the opportunity of bargaining + for some more furs and curiosities.</p> + + <p>Shortly afterwards there were seen from the masthead crowds + of natives among the trees armed with long spears, bows, and + arrows, busily engaged pushing off their canoes from their + hiding-places in creeks and hollows; so perhaps it was just as + well we did not stop, or we might have been surrounded. Not far + from here are the English Narrows, a passage which is a + ticklish but interesting piece of navigation. A strong current + prevails, and, to avoid a shoal, it is necessary at one point + to steer so close to the western shore that the bowsprit almost + projects over the land, the branches of the trees almost sweep + the rigging, and the rocks almost scrape the side of the + vessel. Two men were placed at the wheel, as a matter of + precaution, and we appeared to be steering straight for the + shore, at full speed, till Tom suddenly gave the order 'Hard + a-port!' and the 'Sunbeam' instantly flew round and rushed + swiftly past the dangerous spot into wider waters. It is just + here that Captain Trivett was knocked off the bridge of his + vessel by the boughs—a mishap he warned Tom against + before we left England.</p> + + <p>Whilst in the Narrows we looked back, to see everything + bright and cheerful, but ahead all was black and dismal: the + sky and sun were obscured, the tops of the mountains hidden, + and the valleys filled up with thick fog and clouds—all + which seemed to indicate the approach of a storm of rain, + although the glass was still very high. We went up South Reach + and North Reach, in the Messier Channel, till, just as we were + off Liberta Bay, in lat. 48° 50' S., long. 74° 25' W., + the blackest of the black clouds came suddenly down upon us, + and descended upon the deck in a tremendous shower—not of + rain, but of <i>dust</i> and <i>ashes</i>. Windows, hatches, + and doors were shut as soon as we discovered + <span class="pagenum">Page 150<a name="Page_150" + id="Page_150"></a></span>the nature of this strange + visitation, and in about half an hour we were through the + worst of it: whereupon dustpans, brooms, and dusters came + into great requisition. It took us completely by surprise, + for we had no reason to expect anything of the sort. + Assuming the dust to be of volcanic origin, it must have + travelled an immense distance; the nearest volcano, as far + as we know, being that of Corcovado, in the island of + Chiloe, nearly 300 miles off. We had heard from Sir Woodbine + Parish, and others at Buenos Ayres, of the terrible blinding + dust-storms which occur <i>there</i>, causing utter darkness + for a space of ten or fifteen minutes; but Buenos Ayres is + on the edge of a river, with hundreds and thousands of + leagues of sandy plains behind it, the soil of which is only + kept together by the roots of the wiry pampas grass. For + this dust to reach the Messier Channel, where we now are, it + would have to surmount two chains of snowy mountains, six or + seven thousand feet in height, and in many places hundreds + of miles in width, and traverse a vast extent of country + besides.</p> + + <p>The weather was still so fine, and the barometer so + high—30.52 inches—that Tom determined to go to sea + to-day, instead of stopping at Hale Cove for the night, as we + had originally intended. Directly we got through the English + Narrows, therefore, all hands were busily engaged in once more + sending up the square-yards, top-masts, &c., and in making + ready for sea. Just before sunset, as we were quitting the + narrow channels, the sun pierced through the clouds and + lightened up the lonely landscape as well as the broad waters + of the Pacific Ocean. Its surface was scarcely rippled by the + gentle breeze that wafted us on our course; the light of the + setting sun rested, in soft and varied tints, on the + fast-fading mountains and peaks; and thus, under the most + favourable and encouraging circumstances, we have fairly + entered upon a new and important section of our long voyage. + <span class="pagenum">Page 151<a name="Page_151" + id="Page_151"></a></span></p> + + <p>Although perhaps I ought not to say so, I cannot help + admiring the manner in which Tom has piloted his yacht through + the Straits, for it would do credit, not only to any amateur, + but to a professional seaman. He has never hesitated or been at + a loss for a moment, however intricate the part or complicated + the directions; but having thoroughly studied and mastered the + subject beforehand, he has been able to go steadily on at full + speed the whole way. It has, however, been very fatiguing work + for him, as he hardly ever left the bridge whilst we were under + way.</p> + + <p>We steamed the whole distance from Cape Virgins to the Gulf + of Peñas, 659 knots, in 76 hours, anchoring six times. + This gives seven days' steaming, of an average length of eleven + hours each; and as we stopped two or three hours, at different + times, for Fuegians, photographs, and sketches, our average + speed was nine and a half knots, though sometimes, when going + with strong currents, it was twelve or fourteen, and, when + going against them, barely six knots.</p> + + <p>Just at dark, we passed between Wager Island and Cheape + Channel, where H.M.S. 'Wager,' commanded by Captain Cheape, was + wrecked, and we spent the night in the Gulf of Peñas, + almost becalmed.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, October 13th</i>.—We ceased steaming at + 7.30 a.m., and made every effort throughout the rest of the + day, by endless changes of sail, to catch each fleeting breath + of wind. We did not, however, make much progress, owing to the + extreme lightness of the breeze.</p> + + <p>Sorry as we are to lose the scenery of the Straits, it is + pleasant to find the weather getting gradually warmer, day by + day, and to be able to regard the morning bath once more as a + luxury instead of a terror. The change is also thoroughly + appreciated by the various animals we have on board, especially + the monkeys and parrots, who may now be seen sunning themselves + in every warm <span class="pagenum">Page 152<a name="Page_152" + id="Page_152"></a></span>corner of the deck. In the Straits, + though the sun was hot, there was always an icy feeling in + the wind, owing to the presence of enormous masses of snow + and ice on every side.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, October 14th</i>.—Light winds and calms + prevailed the whole day. About 2 p.m. we were off the island of + Socorro. In the afternoon a large shoal of whales came round + the yacht. I was below when they first made their appearance, + and when I came on deck they were spouting up great jets of + water in all directions, suggestive of the fountains at the + Crystal Palace. We were lying so still that they did not seem + to be in the least afraid of us, and came quite close, swimming + alongside, round us, across our bows, and even diving down + under our keel. There was a shoal of small fish about, and the + whales, most of which were about fifty or sixty feet in length, + constantly opened their huge pink whalebone-fringed mouths so + wide that we could see right down their capacious throats. The + children were especially delighted with this performance, and + baby has learned quite a new trick. When asked, 'What do the + whales do?' she opens her mouth as wide as she can, stretches + out her arms to their fullest extent, then blows, and finishes + up with a look round for applause.</p> + + <p>Soon after 8 p.m. the wind completely died away, and, + fearing further detention, we once more got up steam.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, October 15th</i>.—Still calm. We had the + litany and hymns at 11 a.m.; prayers and hymns and a sermon at + 5 p.m. In the course of the afternoon we were again surrounded + by a shoal of whales. We passed the island of Chiloe to-day, + where it always rains, and where the vegetation is + proportionately dense and luxuriant. It is inhabited by a tribe + of peculiarly gentle Indians, who till the ground, and who are + said to be kind to strangers thrown amongst them. Darwin and + Byron speak well of the island and its inhabitants, who are + probably more civilised since their <span class="pagenum">Page + 153<a name="Page_153" + id="Page_153"></a></span>time, for a steamer now runs + regularly once a week from Valparaiso to San Carlos and back + for garden produce. The potato is indigenous to the + island.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_168" + id="Illus_168"></a> <img src="images/t_168.jpg" + width="240" + height="156" + alt="Illustration: Catching Cape Pigeons in the Gulf of Peñas" + title="Illustration: Catching Cape Pigeons in the Gulf of Peñas" /> + <br /> + <b>Catching Cape Pigeons in the Gulf of + Peñas</b><br /> + <a href="images/168.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Tuesday, October 17th</i>.—At 6 a.m., there being + still no wind, Tom, in despair of ever reaching our destination + under sail alone, again ordered steam to be raised. Two hours + later a nice sailing breeze sprang up; but we had been so often + disappointed that we determined to continue steaming. Just + before sunset we saw the island of Mocha in the distance. It is + said to have been inhabited at one time by herds of wild horses + and hogs, but I think they have now become extinct.</p> + + <p>One of our principal amusements during the calm weather has + been to fish for cape-pigeons, cape-hens, gulls, and + albatrosses, with a hook and line. We have caught a good many + in this way, and several entangled themselves in the threads + left floating for the purpose over the stern. The cape-pigeons + were so tame that they came almost on board, and numbers of + them were caught in butterfly-nets. Their plumage is not unlike + grebe, and I mean to have <span class="pagenum">Page + 154<a name="Page_154" + id="Page_154"></a></span>some muffs and trimmings for the + children made out of it. Allen, the coxswain of the gig, + skins them very well, having had some lessons from Ward + before we left England. I want very much to catch an + albatross, in order to have it skinned, and to make + tobacco-pouches of its feet and pipe-stems of the + wing-bones, for presents.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 155<a name="Page_155" + id="Page_155"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_X" + id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</p> + + <p class="ctr">CHILI.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>Sunbeam of summer, oh what is like + thee</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Hope of the wilderness, + joy of the sea</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Wednesday, October 18th</i>.—At 3.30 a.m. we were + close to the land lying south of the Bay of Lota; at 4 a.m. the + engines were stopped on account of the mist; and at 6 a.m. we + began to go slowly ahead again, though it was still not very + easy to make out the distance and bearing of the coast. The + passage into the bay, between the island of Santa Maria and + Lavapié Point, is narrow and difficult, and abounds with + sunken rocks and other hidden dangers, not yet fully surveyed. + Tom said it was the most arduous piece of navigation he ever + undertook on a misty morning; but happily he accomplished it + successfully. Just as he entered the sun broke through the + mist, displaying a beautiful bay, surrounded on three sides by + well-wooded hills, and sheltered from all winds except the + north. One corner is completely occupied by the huge + establishment belonging to Madame Cousiño, consisting of + coal-mines, enormous smelting-works, and extensive potteries. + The hill just at the back is completely bare of vegetation, + which has all been poisoned by the sulphurous vapours from the + furnaces. This spot, from its contiguity to the works, has been + selected as the site of a village for the accommodation of the + numerous labourers and their families. It is therefore to be + hoped that sulphur fumes are not as injurious to animal as they + evidently are to vegetable life. As we drew nearer + <span class="pagenum">Page 156<a name="Page_156" + id="Page_156"></a></span>to the shore we could distinguish + Madame Cousiño's house, in the midst of a park on the + summit of a hill, and surrounded on all sides by beautiful + gardens. Every prominent point had a little summer-house + perched upon it, and some of the trees had circular seats + built round their trunks half-way up, approached by spiral + staircases, and thatched like wigwams. The general aspect of + the coast, which is a combination of rich red earth, granite + cliffs, and trees to the water's edge, is very like that of + Cornwall and Devonshire.</p> + + <p>We had scarcely dropped our anchor before the captain of the + port came on board, and told us we were too far from the shore + to coal, which was our special object in coming here; so up + went the anchor again, and we steamed a few hundred yards + further in, and then let go close to the shore, in deep water. + Captain Möller waited to go ashore with us, introduced our + steward to the butcher and postmaster of the place, and then + accompanied us to Madame Cousiño's gardens.</p> + + <p>It was a steep climb up the hill, but we were well rewarded + for our labour. Tended by over a hundred men, whose efforts are + directed by highly paid and thoroughly experienced Scotch + gardeners, these grounds contain a collection of plants from + all the four quarters of the globe, and from New Zealand, + Polynesia, and Australia. Amid them were scattered all kinds of + fantastic grottoes, fountains, statues, and ferneries; flights + of steps, leading downwards to the beach, and upwards to sylvan + nooks; arcades, arched over with bamboos, and containing + trellis-work from Derbyshire, and Minton tiles from + Staffordshire; seats of all sorts and shapes, <i>under</i> + trees, <i>in</i> trees, and <i>over</i> trees; besides + summer-houses and pagodas, at every corner where there was a + pretty view over land or sea.</p> + + <p>One of the heads of the establishment, a great friend of + Madame Cousiño's, was unfortunately very ill, and as she + was nursing him, she could not come out to see us; but she + <span class="pagenum">Page 157<a name="Page_157" + id="Page_157"></a></span>kindly gave orders to her gardener + to send some cut flowers and some ferns on board the yacht, + to decorate the saloon; and as she was unable to invite us + to luncheon at the big house, she sent some champagne and + refreshments down to the Casa de la Administracion, where we + were most hospitably entertained. She has had the latter + place comfortably fitted up for the use of the principal + employés on the works, and has provided it with a + billiard-table, a very fair library, and several spare + bed-rooms for the accommodation of visitors.</p> + + <p>After luncheon we went to see the copper-smelting works, + which were very interesting. The manager walked through with + us, and explained the processes very clearly. He could tell at + once, on taking up a piece of rough ore, fresh from the mine, + what percentage of copper or iron it contained, the amount + varying from ten to seventy-five per cent, of the gross weight. + The furnaces are kept burning night and day, and are worked by + three gangs of men; and the quantity of copper produced + annually is enormous. In fact, three parts of the copper used + in Europe comes from here. The ore is brought from various + parts of Chili and Peru, generally in Madame Cousiño's + ships; and coal is found in such abundance, and so near the + surface, that the operation of smelting is a profitable one. + Our afternoon, spent amid smoke, and heat, and dirt, and + half-naked workmen, manipulating with dexterous skill the + glowing streams of molten ore, was a great contrast to our + morning ramble.</p> + + <p>Having seen the works, and received a curious and + interesting collection of copper ore, as a remembrance of our + visit, we started in a little car, lined with crimson cloth, + and drawn by a locomotive, to visit the various coal-mines. + First we went through the park, and then along a valley near + the sea, full of wild flowers and ferns, and trees festooned + with 'copigue,' the Chilian name for a creeper which is a + speciality of this country, and which imparts a character of + its own to the landscape during the month of + <span class="pagenum">Page 158<a name="Page_158" + id="Page_158"></a></span>May, when its wreaths of scarlet, + cherry, or pink flowers are in full bloom. We went to the + mouths of three coal-pits, and looked down into their grimy + depths, but did not descend, as it would have occupied too + much time. They are mostly about 1,000 yards in depth, and + extend for some distance under the sea.</p> + + <p>We next visited a point of land whence we could see an + island which closely resembles St. Michael's Mount. It is quite + uninhabited, except by a few wild goats and rabbits. The + sea-shore is lined with trees to the water's edge, and there + are many bold rocks and fine white sandy caves in different + parts of it. Some boats were drawn up high and dry on the + beach, along which several picturesque-looking groups of + shell-fish collectors were scattered. The mussels that are + found here are enormous—from five to eight inches in + length—and they, together with cockles and limpets, form + a staple article of food.</p> + + <p>A steam-launch had been sent to meet us, but it could not + get near enough to the shore for us to embark. A rickety, leaky + small boat, half full of water, was therefore, after some + delay, procured, and in this we were sculled out, two by two, + till the whole party were safely on board. Outside there was + quite a swell, and a north wind and rain are prophesied for + to-morrow. Mr. Mackay returned with us to the yacht, and stayed + to dinner. Before he left, the prognostications of bad weather + were to some extent justified; for the wind changed, and rain, + the first we have felt for some time, began to fall.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, October 19th</i>.—We have been persuaded + by our friends here to try and see a little more of the + interior of Chili than we should do if we were to carry out our + original intention of going on to Valparaiso in the yacht, and + then merely making an excursion to Santiago from that place. We + have therefore arranged to proceed at once overland to + Santiago, by a route which will enable us to see something of + the Cordillera of the Andes, to have a + <span class="pagenum">Page 159<a name="Page_159" + id="Page_159"></a></span> peep at the Araucanian Indians on + the frontier, and to visit the baths of Cauquenes. Tom, + however, does not like to leave the yacht, and has decided + to take her up to Valparaiso, and then come on to Santiago + and meet us, in about five or six days' time. The anchor was + accordingly hove short, and the mizen hoisted, when we + landed this morning, in a drenching rain.</p> + + <p>A coach runs daily from Lota to Concepcion, the first stage + of our journey, but a special vehicle was engaged for our + accommodation, and a curious affair it was to look at. It + seemed to be simply a huge wooden box, suspended, by means of + thick leather straps, from C springs, without windows or doors, + but provided with two long, narrow openings, through which you + squeezed yourself in or out, and which could be closed at + pleasure by roll-up leather blinds. Inside, it was roomy, + well-padded, and comfortable.</p> + + <p>The rain had made the road terribly greasy, and several + times the carriage slewed half-way round and slid four or five + feet sideways down the hill, causing us to hold on, in + expectation of a spill. At last we reached the bottom in + safety, and, crossing a small river, emerged upon the sea-shore + at Playa Negra, or Black Beach, along which we drove for some + distance through the deep, loose sand, the horses being up to + their fetlocks in water most of the time. Then we forded + another little river, and, leaving the beach, proceeded up a + steep road, not more than three yards wide, with a ditch on one + side and a steep precipice on the other, to the little village + of Coronel, overlooking the bay of the same name. While the + horses were being changed, we walked down to the little wooden + pier, on the sea-shore, and saw the 'Sunbeam' just coming out + of Lota Bay.</p> + + <p>Drawn up by the side of the pier was a picturesque-looking + market-boat, full of many sorts of vegetables, and little piles + of sea-eggs, with their spines removed, and neatly tied up with + rushes in parcels of three. The people seemed to enjoy them + raw, in which state they are considered + <span class="pagenum">Page 160<a name="Page_160" + id="Page_160"></a></span>to be most nutritious; and when + roasted in their shells, or made into omelettes, they are a + favourite article of food with all classes. Coronel is a + great coaling station, and the bay, which is surrounded by + tall chimneys, shafts, and piers, connected with the mines, + was full of steamers and colliers.</p> + + <p>Our road now ran for some time through undulating + pasture-land, in which were many large trees, the scene + resembling a vast park. Masses of scarlet verbena, yellow + calceolaria, and white heath, grew on all sides, while the + numerous myrtle, mimosa, and other bushes, were entwined with + orange-coloured nasturtiums, and a little scarlet + tropæolum, with a blue edge, whose name I forget. Beneath + the trees the ground was thickly carpeted with adiantum fern. + The road over which we travelled was of the worst description, + and our luncheon was eaten with no small difficulty, but with a + considerable amount of merriment. Once, when we jolted into an + unusually big hole, the whole of our provisions, basket and + all, made a sudden plunge towards one side of the coach, and + very nearly escaped us altogether.</p> + + <p>Half-way between Coronel and Concepcion, we met the return + stage-coach, crowded with passengers, and looking as if it had + just come out of the South Kensington Museum or Madame + Tussaud's, or like the pictures of a coach of Queen Elizabeth's + time. It was a long low vehicle, with unglazed windows all + round it, painted bright scarlet decorated with brilliant + devices on every panel, and suspended, like our own, by means + of innumerable leather straps, from huge C springs. The seats + on either side held three passengers, and there was a stool in + the middle, like the one in the Lord Mayor's coach, on which + four people sat, back to bask.</p> + + <p>Soon after we drew up to rest the horses at a little posada, + kept by two Germans, called 'Half-way House,' and seven miles + more brought us to a rich and well-cultivated + <span class="pagenum">Page 161<a name="Page_161" + id="Page_161"></a></span>farm belonging to Mr. Hermann, + where we stopped to change horses.</p> + + <p>It was six o'clock in the evening when we reached the + Bio-Bio, a wide shallow river, at the entrance of the town of + Concepcion; it had to be crossed in a ferry-boat, carriage and + all, and as it was after hours, we had some difficulty in + finding any one to take us over. At last, in consideration of a + little extra pay, six men consented to undertake the job, and + having set a square-sail, to keep us from being carried down + the river by the current, they punted us over with long poles. + Sometimes there was nine feet of water beneath us, but oftener + not more than four or five. The boat could not get close to the + opposite shore, and it was a great business to get the carriage + out and the horses harnessed, in some eighteen inches of water. + First the carriage stuck in the sand, and then the horses + refused to move, but after a great deal of splashing, and an + immense display of energy in the way of pulling, jerking, + shrieking, shouting—and, I am afraid, swearing—we + reached the bank, emerged from the water, struggled through + some boggy ground, and were taken at full gallop through the + streets of the town, until we reached the Hotel Comercio, where + we found comfortable rooms and a nice little dinner awaiting + us.</p> + + <p>This was all very well, as far as it went, but when we came + to inquire about our onward route we were disappointed to learn + that the line to Angol was closed, owing to the breaking down + of a bridge, and would remain so until next month, and that, + with the exception of a contractor's train, which runs only + once a week, there was nothing by which we could travel. + 'To-morrow is Friday,' added Monsieur Letellier, 'and that is + so near Monday, what can Madame do better than wait here till + then?' By way of consolation, he informed us that there were no + Indians now at Angol, as the Araucanian <a name="FNanchor_6_6" + id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" + class="fnanchor">[6]</a> Indians <span class="pagenum">Page + 162<a name="Page_162" + id="Page_162"></a></span> had recently all been driven + further back from the frontier by the Chilenos, but that, if + we were still bent on trying to get there, we could go by + boat as far as Nacimiento, where we might, with some + difficulty, procure a carriage. The river just now, however, + is so low, that the boat frequently gets aground, and + remains for two or three days; therefore, taking everything + into consideration, we have decided to abandon this part of + our programme, for otherwise we shall not reach Santiago in + time. In any case, the journey will be a much longer one + than we expected.</p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_6_6" + id="Footnote_6_6"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> + I have lately received a letter from a friend in Paris, + who says: 'Strange to tell, it is only a few days ago + that poor Orélie Antoine I., ex-King of + Araucania, died at Bordeaux, in a hospital. He reigned + for some years, and then made war upon Chili, which gave + him a warm reception; even captured his Majesty and sent + him back to his native land. I met him here a few years + ago, surrounded by a small court, which treated him with + great deference. I found him a dignified, intelligent + sovereign. He attempted to return to his kingdom, but + was captured on the high seas by a Brazilian cruiser, + and sent back to France to die a miserable death.</p> + </div> + + <p><i>Friday, October 20th</i>.—We went out for a short + stroll round the Plaza before breakfast, which meal was + scarcely over when Mr. Mackay arrived in a carriage, and took + us off to see what there was to see in the town. The Plaza was + full of bright-looking flower-beds, in which were superb roses, + and many English flowers, shaded by oranges, pomegranates, and + deutzias. Each plot belongs to one of the principal families in + the town, and great emulation is displayed as to whose little + garden shall be in the best order and contain the finest + collection of plants and flowers.</p> + + <p>Concepcion has suffered, and still suffers, much from + earthquakes. The existing town is only thirty-five years old. + The houses are all one story high only, and the streets, or + rather roads, between them are wide, in order to afford the + inhabitants a chance of escape, should their dwellings be + thrown down by a sudden shock. In summer everybody rushes out + into the street, no matter what hour of the day or night it may + be, as soon as the first symptoms of an earthquake are felt; + but during the winter, when <span class="pagenum">Page + 163<a name="Page_163" + id="Page_163"></a></span>the shocks are never so severe, the + alarm caused is not so great. The old town was about two + miles distant from the present site, near a place now called + Penco, but after being demolished in the ordinary way, an + immense wave rolled up and completely destroyed all traces + of its existence.</p> + + <p>We drove out to Puchacai, Mr. Mackay's hacienda, a pretty + little thatched cottage, surrounded by a verandah, in the midst + of a garden, where laburnums and lilacs bloom side by side with + orange-trees and pomegranates. Round the garden are groves of + shady English oaks (the first we have seen since leaving home) + and Norfolk Island pines, the effect of the whole scene being + strangely suggestive of the idea that a charming little bit of + English rural scenery has in some mysterious manner been + transported to this out-of-the-way spot in Chili. The interior + of the house, which is simply but tastefully furnished, and at + the time of our visit was full of fresh flowers, arranged with + an artistic eye to colour, bears the same indescribable + <i>homelike</i> air. We were kindly received and regaled with + luncheon, including, amongst other good things, fried + <i>pejerey</i> (king of fish), deservedly so called.</p> + + <p>In the afternoon we strolled about the garden, and looked at + the farm and stable, and were shown the probable winner of one + of the prizes at the forthcoming race-meeting. In the cottages + on the estate some specimens of <i>miñaque</i> lace were + offered to us—a lace made by most of the peasants in this + part of the country. It varies considerably in quality, from + the coarse kind, used for covering furniture, to the finest + description, used for personal adornment It is very cheap, + wears for ever, and strongly resembles the <i>torchon</i> lace, + now so fashionable in Paris and London for trimming petticoats + and children's frocks. The women also spin, dye, and weave the + wool from the fleece of their own sheep into the + bright-coloured ponchos universally worn, winter and summer, by + the men in this country. These ponchos are not made of nearly + such good <span class="pagenum">Page 164<a name="Page_164" + id="Page_164"></a></span>material as those used in the + Argentine Republic, but they are considerably gayer and more + picturesque in appearance.</p> + + <p>After dinner, there was nothing to do except to stroll about + the town and buy photographs. They are extremely good in + Chili—both views and portraits—but proportionately + dear, the price being double what would be charged in London or + Paris for the same thing.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_179" + id="Illus_179"></a> <img src="images/t_179.jpg" + width="240" + height="194" + alt="Illustration: Waiting for the Train, Chili" + title="Illustration: Waiting for the Train, Chili" /><br /> + <b>Waiting for the Train, Chili</b><br /> + <a href="images/179.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Saturday, October 21st</i>.—Having wished good-bye + to Mr. Mackay, and taken our seats in the train for Linares, we + were now fairly launched on our own resources in a strange + country, I being the only one of the party who could speak even + a little Spanish. At San Romde we stopped half an hour to allow + the train from Chilian to pass. Most of the passengers took the + opportunity of breakfasting, but as we were not hungry we + occupied the time in having a chat with the engine-driver, a + very intelligent Canadian. He told us that, as it happened, we + might have gone to Angol to-day after all, as a special car and + engine were going there to take a doctor to see a patient, + returning early to-morrow morning.</p> + + <p>The railroad runs alongside the Bio-Bio all the way to San + Romde. On either bank are low wooded hills, on + <span class="pagenum">Page 165<a name="Page_165" + id="Page_165"></a></span>whose sides vines are cultivated in + considerable quantities. The wild flowers grow luxuriantly + everywhere: calceolarias, especially, in huge bushes of + golden bloom, two or three feet high. At San Romde we left + the river, and travelled through a pretty and + well-cultivated country to Chilian, which derives its name + from an Indian word, signifying 'saddle of the sun,' and is + so called from the fact that the sun shines upon it through + a saddle-shaped pass in the chain of the Andes.</p> + + <p>Like Concepcion, the existing town has been recently built + at a distance of about a mile from the remains of the old place + of the same name, which was overthrown by an earthquake about + thirty years ago. The destruction was, however, not so complete + as in the case of Concepcion, and some few of the + better-conditioned houses are still inhabited by very poor + people, though the walls have great cracks in them from top to + bottom, and they are otherwise in a deplorable state. A large + cattle and horse market is held at Chilian every Saturday, and + it is said that, on these occasions, 100,000 dollars frequently + change hands in the course of the morning, in the open + market-place. All the business of the day was over by the time + we got there, and there was nothing to be seen but a few stray + beasts and quaint bullock-carts, and some peasants selling + refreshments, <i>miñaque</i> lace, and other trifles. In + several of the old-fashioned shops on the Plaza there were + curious-looking stirrups, bits, spurs, and other horse-gear, + all made of solid silver, roughly worked by the Indians + themselves.</p> + + <p>Having had our baths, we returned to the hotel, where we + found dinner laid out in my bed-room, which happened to be the + largest, for our host did not approve of our dining at the + table-d'hôte, as we should have preferred to do. He gave + us an excellent dinner, with good wine, and attended to us most + assiduously himself.</p> + + <p>While the gentlemen were smoking, I went to see a poor + engine-driver who had met with a bad accident, + <span class="pagenum">Page 166<a name="Page_166" + id="Page_166"></a></span>and who was lying at this hotel. He + is a fine healthy-looking Englishman, and he told me that, + until this misfortune, he had never known a day's illness in + his life. It seems that, at four o'clock in the afternoon of + this day week, he was sent off with a special engine to + convey an important message. Something going wrong during + the journey, he slackened speed, and, in stepping off the + engine to see what was the matter, his foot slipped, and the + wheel of the tender went over it. He had no one with him who + could manage the engine alone, so he was obliged to get up + again, and endeavour to struggle on to Talca; but after + going a few miles further, the engine suddenly ran off the + track, at a part of the unfinished line that had not yet + been sufficiently ballasted. They could not get it on again + unaided, and one of the men had to start off and walk many + miles before he could procure assistance. Altogether, poor + Clarke underwent forty-two hours of intense agony from the + time of the accident until he received any medical + attention. In spite of this he is now doing well; and though + the foot, which is in a bath of carbolic acid and water, + looks very bad, he is in great spirits, because the three + local doctors, in consultation, have decided that amputation + will not be necessary. He spoke in the highest terms of the + kindness of our French host and his Spanish wife, the latter + of whom, he says, has nursed him like a mother. He certainly + has the one large room in the house, and when I saw him his + bed was comfortably made and arranged, flowers and fruit + were on a table by his side, and everything looked as neat + and snug as possible. It was a treat to him to see some one + fresh from the old country, and to hear all the news, and + our voyage appeared to interest him greatly. While I was + with him one of his friends came in, who remembered me quite + well, and who knew one or two people with whom we are + acquainted, including the manager of Messrs. Bowdler and + Chaffers' yard, where the 'Sunbeam' was built.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_182" + id="Illus_182"></a> <img src="images/t_182.jpg" + width="226" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: A Fellow Passenger" + title="Illustration: A Fellow Passenger" /><br /> + <b>A Fellow Passenger</b><br /> + <a href="images/182.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 167<a name="Page_167" + id="Page_167"></a></span></p> + + <p><i>Sunday, October 22nd</i>.—Though it was Sunday, we + had no choice but to travel on, or we should not have been able + to start until Tuesday. We were therefore up at five o'clock, + and at the station before seven. From San Carlos, where we + arrived at 8.15 a.m., we started for Linares, which was reached + a couple of hours later. It is a much smaller town than + Chilian, but is built on exactly the same plan—Plaza, + cathedral, and all. To-day the streets were crowded with men on + horseback, who had brought their wives in, seated + pillion-fashion on the crupper behind them, to attend mass.</p> + + <p>Our road lay through a rich country, intersected by small + rivers; with the distant snowy chain of the Andes as a + background, and through thickly planted groves of poplars, + growing in long shady avenues, fragrant with perfume from the + magnificent roses which blossomed beneath their shade. In the + course of our four hours' drive, we crossed a great many + streams, in some of which the water was deep enough to come in + at the bottom of the carriage, and cause us to tuck ourselves + up on the seats; there was always a little pleasing excitement + and doubt, as we approached one of these rivulets, as to + whether we were to be inundated or not. We met a good many + people riding and walking about in their holiday clothes, and + at all the cabarets groups of talkers, drinkers, and players + were assembled.</p> + + <p>The cottages we have seen by the roadside have been + picturesque but wretched-looking edifices, generally composed + of the branches of trees stuck in the ground, plastered with + mud and thatched with reeds. Two outhouses, or arbours, + consisting of a few posts and sticks, fastened together and + overgrown with roses and other flowers, serve respectively as a + cool sitting-room and a kitchen, the oven being invariably + built on the ground <span class="pagenum">Page + 168<a name="Page_168" + id="Page_168"></a></span>outside the latter, for the sake of + coolness. The women, when young, are singularly + good-looking, with dark complexions, bright eyes, and + luxuriant tresses, which they wear in two plaits, hanging + down their backs far below the waist. The men are also, as a + rule, fine-looking. In fact, the land is good, and everybody + and everything looks prosperous. The beasts are up to their + knees in rich pasture, are fat and sleek, and lie down to + chew the cud of contentment, instead of searching anxiously + for a scanty sustenance. The horses are well fed, and their + coats are fine and glossy, and the sheep, pigs, and other + animals are in equally good condition. It is therefore a + cheery country to travel through, and at this spring-time of + the year one sees it in its highest perfection.</p> + + <p>Before reaching Talca we had to cross the Maule, a wide, + deep river, with a swift current. The carriage was first put on + board a large flat-bottomed boat, into which the horses then + jumped, one by one, the last to embark tumbling down and + rolling among the legs of the others. With a large oar the boat + was steered across the stream, down which it drifted about 200 + yards into shallow water, where the boatmen jumped out and + towed us to a convenient landing-place. Here we found several + people waiting to be ferried over. A troop of mules having been + driven into the water, which they seemed rather to enjoy, swam + across safely, though they were carried some distance down the + river.</p> + + <p>About five o'clock we arrived at Talca, and went straight to + the Hotel Colon, kept by Gassaroni. Every Italian who starts an + hotel in this part of the world calls it, as a matter of + course, 'The Columbus Hotel;' for they are very anxious to + claim the great navigator as a countryman, though the Spaniards + dispute their right to do so, on the ground that Genoa, where + he was really born, was at that time an independent State. + While we were waiting for dinner we walked about the town, + which so exactly <span class="pagenum">Page + 169<a name="Page_169" + id="Page_169"></a></span>resembles Concepcion and Chilian in + the arrangement of its streets, buildings, and trees, that I + doubt whether any one familiar with the three places could + tell immediately which town he was in, if transported + suddenly to the middle of the Plaza, though I believe Talca + is rather the largest. It still retains its old Indian name, + meaning 'thunder,' doubtless on account of the frequency and + violence of the thunder-storms by which it is visited.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, October 23rd</i>.—Soon after midnight I was + aroused by a great noise. At first I thought I was dreaming, + but a very brief reflection convinced me of the existence of an + energetically played big-drum, somewhere in the immediate + neighbourhood of my bed-room. I at once got up and, peeping + through the window in the door, saw a military band of + twenty-five performers, standing on the other side of the + courtyard, blowing and hitting their hardest. It must be + confessed that they played well, and that their selection of + music was good, but it was, nevertheless, rather annoying, + after a long and fatiguing day, and with the prospect of an + early start, to be kept awake until half-past three in the + morning, while they serenaded and toasted the <i>prima + donna</i>, and each of the other members of the theatrical + company who are staying here. The noise was, of course, + increased by the reverberation from the walls of the courtyard, + and, finding it impossible to sleep, I abandoned the attempt, + and took to writing instead. At last the welcome notes of the + Chilian national air gave me hope that the entertainment was + over for the night—or rather morning—and soon + afterwards all was once more quiet.</p> + + <p>We left Talca by the 7.30 train, Mr. Budge, who had business + at Curico, accompanying us. All the engines and rolling stock + this side of Santiago are of American make and pattern. Mr. + Budge had secured one of the long cars, with a passage down the + centre, and a saloon at each end, for us, so we were very + comfortable, and he told us a great deal about the country as + we went along. Like all <span class="pagenum">Page + 170<a name="Page_170" + id="Page_170"></a></span>Chilenos, he is very patriotic, and + is especially proud of the financial stability of his + country. He often said,' If English people would only invest + their money here, instead of in Peru or the Argentine + Republic, they would get eight per cent, on good security.' + We heard the same thing from many other sources; and it + certainly does seem that this country is the most settled, + and the least liable to be disturbed by revolutions, of any + in South America. At Curico<a name="FNanchor_7_7" + id="FNanchor_7_7"></a> <a href="#Footnote_7_7" + class="fnanchor">[7]</a> we breakfasted at a little + restaurant on Chilian dishes and the wine of the country. + The latter is excellent and of various kinds, but it is so + cheap that none of the innkeepers can be persuaded to supply + it to travellers, whose only chance of tasting it, + therefore, is at some small inn.</p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_7_7" + id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label"> + [7]</span></a> An Indian name, signifying 'black waters,' + having reference to the mineral springs in the neighbouring + mountains.</p> + </div> + + <p>Mr. Budge left us at Pelequen, the next station to San + Fernando, having put us in charge of the conductor, who + promised to see after us at Cauquenes, but who wofully betrayed + his trust. There was no regular station at the latter place, + but as the train stopped, and we saw 'Bains de Cauquenes' on an + hotel close by, we jumped out just in time to see it go on + again. Luckily the other passengers were kind enough to + interest themselves on our behalf, and shrieked and hallooed to + such good purpose that the engine was once more brought to a + standstill, and our luggage was put out. Half-a-dozen little + boys carried it to the inn, where I had to explain to the + <i>patron</i>, in my best Spanish, that we wanted a carriage to + go to the baths, seven leagues off. In a wonderfully short + space of time, four good horses were harnessed to a queer sort + of vehicle, which held four inside and one out, besides the + driver, and which had to be entered by means of a ladder. + Having all packed in, and paid our fare beforehand, we were + rattled off at a merry pace towards the Andes. The road went up + and down and round about, and crossed + <span class="pagenum">Page 171<a name="Page_171" + id="Page_171"></a></span>many rivers, but was fairly good + throughout. We changed once at a large hacienda, where a man + went into a large yard, containing about sixty horses, and + dexterously lassoed the particular four required for our + use. Several horsemen were waiting about, and I looked at + their saddles, which were made of a dozen or more + sheepskins, laid one on the top of the other, forming a soft + seat to ride in by day and a comfortable bed to sleep on at + night.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_186" + id="Illus_186"></a> <img src="images/t_186.jpg" + width="235" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Baths of Cauquenes" + title="Illustration: Baths of Cauquenes" /><br /> + <b>Baths of Cauquenes</b><br /> + <a href="images/186.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>Early in the afternoon we saw some buildings in the + distance, which we rightly guessed to be the baths, and soon + afterwards we passed in at the entrance gate of the + establishment, by the side of which was a rock with the word + 'Welcome' painted upon its face. The whole distance from the + station was twenty-three miles, which we had accomplished in a + little over two hours. Driving between hedgerows of roses in + full bloom, we were not long in <span class="pagenum">Page + 172<a name="Page_172" + id="Page_172"></a></span>reaching the door of the hotel, + where we were received by the proprietor. He told us he was + very full, but he managed to find us some small rooms, and + then conducted us to the luxuriously fitted bathing + establishment. After this came the table-d'hôte, to + which about seventy sat down, though many of the visitors + were dining in their own rooms. In the evening we walked + about the garden and chatted with several people, who all + seemed to have heard of us and our voyage, and to be anxious + to know what we thought of the Straits. We saw some English + papers too, which was a great treat, though there did not + seem to be much news in them.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, October 24th</i>.—This is a wonderful + place, built entirely of wood. The centre part is a square, + seventy yards in extent, surrounded by a single row of + one-storied rooms, with doors opening into the courtyard, and + windows looking over the river or up into the mountains. In the + middle of the square are a pavilion containing two + billiard-tables, a boot-blacking arbour, covered with white and + yellow jessamine and scarlet and cream-coloured honeysuckle, + plenty of flower-beds, full of roses and orange-trees, and a + monkey on a pole, who must, poor creature, have a sorry life of + it, as it is his business to afford amusement to all the + visitors to the baths. He is very good-tempered, does several + tricks, and is tormented 'from early dawn to dewy eve.' I + remonstrated with our host on his behalf; but he merely + shrugged his shoulders and said, 'Mais il faut que le monde se + divertisse, Madame.' From the centre square, marble steps lead + to a large hall, with marble baths on either side, for ladies + and gentlemen respectively. A few steps further bring one to a + delightful swimming-bath, about forty feet square, filled with + tepid water. The water, as it springs from the rock, is boiling + hot, and contains, I believe, a good deal of magnesia and other + salts, beneficial in cases of rheumatism and gout; but the high + temperature of the water makes the air very + <span class="pagenum">Page 173<a name="Page_173" + id="Page_173"></a></span>muggy, and we all found the place + relaxing, though perhaps it was because we indulged too + freely in the baths, which are a great temptation.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_188" + id="Illus_188"></a> <img src="images/t_188.jpg" + width="197" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Up the Valley towards the Andes" + title="Illustration: Up the Valley towards the Andes" /><br /> + + <b>Up the Valley towards the Andes</b><br /> + <a href="images/188.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>In the afternoon we went for a ride, to see a celebrated + view of the Andes. Unfortunately it was rather misty, but we + could see enough to enable us to imagine the rest. Some condors + were soaring round the rocky peaks, and the landscape, though + well clothed with vegetation, had a weird, dreary character of + its own, partly due to the quantity of large cacti that grew in + every nook and corner, singly, or in groups of ten or twelve, + to the height of twenty or thirty feet. Though they say it + hardly ever rains in Chili, a heavy shower fell this afternoon, + and our <span class="pagenum">Page 174<a name="Page_174" + id="Page_174"></a></span>landlord thoughtfully sent a boy on + horseback after us with umbrellas.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, October 25th</i>.—The bath was so + delightful this morning, that we felt quite sorry it was to be + our last. One could very well spend a week or two here, and + find plenty to do in the way of excursions into the valleys of + the Andes, which look most inviting in the distance.</p> + + <p>At half-past ten, we set out on our return journey to the + railway, changing horses at the same place where we had stopped + at coming up, and which we reached half an hour before the + train was due; when it arrived we were allowed to get in with + our belongings in rather a less hurried fashion than we had + alighted. Luncheon was procured at Rancagua, and we finally + reached Santiago at about 4.50 p.m. No sooner had we got fairly + into the station than the car was invaded by a crowd of Porters + touting for employment. They are all dressed in white, and wear + red caps, on which is a brass number, by means of which they + are easily recognised. The landlord from the Hotel Ingles, M. + Tellier, met us, and we at once drove off, leaving our luggage + to follow, in charge of one of the red-capped gentlemen. The + drive from the station was along the Alameda, on either side of + which were many fine houses; but the road was ill-paved and + shaky as usual.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_189" + id="Illus_189"></a> <img src="images/t_189.jpg" + width="167" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Cacti of the Cordillera" + title="Illustration: Cacti of the Cordillera" /><br /> + <b>Cacti of the Cordillera</b><br /> + <a href="images/189.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>The Grand Hotel, which used to be considered the best in + South America, is now shut up, the company who owned it having + recently failed; so all the smaller hotels, none + <span class="pagenum">Page 175<a name="Page_175" + id="Page_175"></a></span>of which are very good, are crowded + to overflowing. The Hotel Ingles is considered the best, + though I cannot say much in its favour. The rooms are good, + but the situation is noisy, being at the corner of two + streets; the servants are attentive, but the cuisine and + arrangements are bad. Independently of all this, we have + great reason to complain of the conduct of the landlord, for + my first question, as soon as he had introduced himself, + was, of course, 'Have Mr. and Miss Brassey arrived?' 'Yes, + Madame, and went away this morning.' 'What! and left no + letter?' 'No; but Monsieur returns to-morrow.' Imagine my + surprise and disappointment! But there was nothing to be + done but to go to the hotel and wait patiently. We + afterwards found that <i>Tom had left a long letter, and + that he had never said a word about returning</i>. The + wretched man would not give me the letter, because he + thought he could detain us, and he never sent the telegram I + handed to him to forward to Tom at once, asking for an + answer.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_190" + id="Illus_190"></a> <img src="images/t_190.jpg" + width="240" + height="128" + alt="Illustration: Huasso Huts" + title="Illustration: Huasso Huts" /><br /> + <b>Huasso Huts</b><br /> + <a href="images/190.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>Our luggage arrived just in time to enable us to dress for + the second table-d'hôte at six o'clock, after which we + went for a walk through some arcades, paved with marble, and + full of fine shops, past the Grand Hotel, which was situated at + the end of the Alameda, and is built over an + <span class="pagenum">Page 176<a name="Page_176" + id="Page_176"></a></span>arcade of shops. It is a handsome + building, and must command a fine view. The cathedral and + the archbishop's palace, large but rather dull-looking brick + buildings, are close by. The surrounding gardens looked + pretty by gaslight, and the scent of roses pervaded the + evening air.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_191" + id="Illus_191"></a> <img src="images/t_191.jpg" + width="164" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Huasso of Chili" + title="Illustration: Huasso of Chili" /><br /> + <b>Huasso of Chili</b><br /> + <a href="images/191.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 177<a name="Page_177" + id="Page_177"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XI" + id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">SANTIAGO AND VALPARAISO.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>Gems of the changing autumn, how beautiful you + are</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Shining from your glassy + stems, like many a golden star</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Thursday, October 26th</i>.—Our kind hostess at + Lota had given us a letter of introduction to her manager at + Santiago, who called this morning to inquire what arrangements + he could make which would be most agreeable to us during our + stay. She had also given orders that her carriages and horses + should be placed at our disposal, and at about ten o'clock we + all started in an open break, drawn by a pair of good-looking + half-bred brown horses, bigger than any we had seen before in + this country.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_192" + id="Illus_192"></a> <img src="images/t_192.jpg" + width="147" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Morning Mass at Santiago" + title="Illustration: Morning Mass at Santiago" /><br /> + <b>Morning Mass at Santiago</b><br /> + <a href="images/192.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>We went first to the Compañía, a large open + square, planted with flowers, the site of the old Jesuit + Church, which was burnt down on December 8th, 1863. Well known + as the story is, I may here recall the tragic details, standing + on the very spot where they took place. It was the Feast of the + Virgin, and the church was densely crowded with a congregation + composed almost <span class="pagenum">Page + 178<a name="Page_178" + id="Page_178"></a></span>entirely of women, principally + young, many of whom were servant-girls. Some of the + draperies used in the decoration of the building caught + fire, the flames spread rapidly, destroying in their course + the cords by which the numerous paraffin and oil lamps were + suspended across the nave and aisles, and precipitating + their burning contents upon the people beneath. The great + doors opened inwards; the crowd, trying to press out, closed + them, and kept them hermetically sealed. The priests, + anxious to save the church properties and sacred relics, + shut the large iron gates across the chancel and kept them + fastened, notwithstanding the agonising shrieks of the + unhappy victims, many of whom might otherwise have escaped. + Their conduct on this terrible occasion created at the time + a feeling of bitter and universal indignation, and caused a + shock to the popularity and authority of the priesthood in + this country, from which it will take them a long time to + recover.</p> + + <p>Mr. Long told us that, between seven and eight o'clock on + the evening of the catastrophe, he was walking with some + friends on the Alameda, when he saw smoke rising in dense + volumes from the quarter of the city where the house in which + he resided was situated. He and his friends ran quickly in the + direction of the fire, giving the alarm as they went, and on + reaching the church they found the doors closely shut, while + fearful screams were issuing from the interior, and smoke and + flames pouring from the windows. They got a party of men + together accustomed to the use of the lasso—no difficult + task here—and with them climbed from the neighbouring + houses to the top of the church. Making a hole in the roof, + they then dropped their lassoes over some of the women beneath, + and so dragged them out of the building; but the number thus + saved was necessarily very small, and it happened too often + that many of the poor creatures below, in their eagerness to + escape, hung on to the legs or body of the one they saw + lassoed, and by their weight literally dragged + <span class="pagenum">Page 179<a name="Page_179" + id="Page_179"></a></span>her to pieces. Sometimes even a + lasso broke, and those clinging to it, when almost within + reach of safety, were again precipitated into the burning + mass below. Any one who has seen a raw hide lasso, capable + of withstanding the sudden rush of the fiercest bull ever + captured, will be able to realise the immense strain which + would be required to cause one to give way. The next morning + at daybreak, the interior of the church presented a terrible + spectacle. Mr. Long described it as being full of women, + standing up, tightly wedged together, their hands stretched + out as if in an attitude of supplication, their faces and + the upper part of their bodies charred beyond recognition, + the lower part, from the waist downwards, completely + untouched.</p> + + <p>Their remains were buried in one large grave, in the + cemetery of the Recoleta, and the spot is now marked by a + square piece of ground, full of bright flowers, enclosed by + iron railings, almost hidden by the creepers that entwine them, + and shaded by willows, orange-trees, cypresses, and + pomegranates. In the centre is a large cross, and on either + side of the iron railings there is a marble tablet with the + simple but touching inscription, in Spanish—</p> + + <p class="ctr">'Incendio de la Iglesia<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">de la + Compañía,</span><br /> + 8 de Diciembre, 1863.<br /> + Restos de las Víctimas;<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">2000, mas o + ménos.'</span><br /> + <br /> + (Burning of the Church of the Compañía, December + 8th, 1863<br /> + Remains of the victims. 2,000, more or less.)</p> + + <p>Almost every household in Santiago had lost one of its + members. One lovely girl of seventeen was pulled out through + the roof and taken to Madame Cousiño's residence, where + she lay for nearly a fortnight. She suffered the greatest + agonies, but was sensible to the last, and gave a graphic + account of the whole harrowing scene. The site of the church, + hallowed by such sad memories, has never been built upon, but + is preserved as an open space, <span class="pagenum">Page + 180<a name="Page_180" + id="Page_180"></a></span>surrounded by a strip of garden, + and having in its centre a finely carved monument.</p> + + <p>The Houses of Congress were the next thing we went to see, + after which we drove through a great part of the city and over + a handsome bridge with statues and small niches on either side. + Beneath it, however, there is little more than a dry torrent + bed; and it is said that an American, when visiting this spot + with a Santiago friend, who was showing him round, remarked, 'I + guess you ought either to buy a river or sell this here + bridge.' We also went to the Church of La Recoleta. From the + church we went to the cemetery of the same name, which is + prettily laid out, and well stocked with flowers and trees.</p> + + <p>It being now past eleven o'clock, we began to think about + breakfast, and accordingly returned to the hotel, where I was + disappointed to find no news from Tom and no answer to the + telegram I sent last night.</p> + + <p>At one o'clock we started again, and had a pleasant but + rather dusty drive of eight miles to Macul, the stud-farm + established by the late Don Luis Cousiño.</p> + + <p>We had some luncheon at Mr. Canning's house, in a room that + had recently been split from top to bottom by an earthquake, + and afterwards sat in the verandah to see the horses and some + of the cattle, which were brought round for our inspection. + Amongst them were Fanfaron, Fandango, and other beautiful + thoroughbreds, three fine Cleveland coach-horses, Suffolk + cart-horses and percherons, and some of the young stock. We saw + only a few of the beasts, as at this time they are away feeding + on the hills, but I believe they are as good as the horses. Mr. + Long had arranged for us all to ride round the farm, and I was + mounted on a lovely chestnut mare, sixteen hands high, daughter + of Fanfaron, and niece to Kettledrum. I should have liked to + have bought her and sent her home, but she was not for sale, + though her value was 400<i>l</i>. English horses here are as + dear, in proportion, as native horses are + <span class="pagenum">Page 181<a name="Page_181" + id="Page_181"></a></span>cheap. The latter may be bought for + from twenty to sixty dollars apiece; and some of them make + capital little hacks.</p> + + <p>We rode all over the farm, attended by half-a-dozen peones, + who drove the young thoroughbred stock together, in the + enormous fields, for us to see, and afterwards did the same + thing with some of the cattle. We also went through the farm + buildings, in one part of which we saw the operation of making + lassoes. The best are composed of neatly plaited strips of + cured hide, about a quarter of an inch wide, the commoner sort + being made from an undressed cow's hide, with the hair on, cut + from the centre in an ever-increasing circle, so that they are + in one piece, many yards in length. In another part of the farm + there were a few acres more of flower-gardens, orange-trees, + and kitchen-gardens.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_196" + id="Illus_196"></a> <img src="images/196.gif" + width="290" + height="375" + alt="Illustration: What makes Horses go in Chili" + title="Illustration: What makes Horses go in Chili" /> + </div> + + <p>Beautiful as the whole place is, it loses much in interest + from its vastness. You never seem to know where you are, or + when you have come to an end. I hear that Madame Cousiño + talks of extending the park still further, right up into the + mountains, which seems almost a pity, as it is already too big + to be kept in really perfect order, even with a hundred and + twenty men employed upon it. Everything is completely + surrounded and overgrown with flowers. Even the fields are + separated by hedges of sweet-smelling double pink roses, and + these hedges are larger than many a 'bull-finch' in the old + country.</p> + + <p>After a delightful gallop of about two hours, we returned to + the farmhouse, where we found a fresh pair of horses waiting + for us in the break, and drove back to Santiago by + moonlight.</p> + + <p>It was eight o'clock when we reached the hotel, and as the + table-d'hôte dinner only lasts from five till half-past + <span class="pagenum">Page 182<a name="Page_182" + id="Page_182"></a></span> seven, I asked for a private + dinner in our own room or in the general dining-room, for + our own party and two guests in addition. But the landlord + said he was not at all sure about giving us dinner; he must + see what there was in the kitchen first. We then declared we + would go and dine at a cafe, and in less than half an hour + managed to get an excellent little dinner at the Cafe + Santiago, though even Mr. Long, who ordered it for us, could + not induce them to give us native wine. I am bound to + confess, however, that we punished ourselves at least as + much as the landlord, for as we paid so much a day for board + and lodging, he was of course bound to provide us with + dinner, and we had thus to pay for our food twice over.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, October 27th</i>.—Still no news from Tom. + Mr. Long called at half-past eight, to take me to the market, + and my first step was to send another telegram, this time + taking care to see that it really was despatched.</p> + + <p>We then walked through the streets to the market-hall, a + handsome iron building, commodiously arranged, which was sent + out from England in pieces, and put together here. All round it + are stalls, where you can get a capital breakfast, generally + consisting of coffee, tender beef-steak, buttered toast, and + boiled beans, for a small sum. One of our party, who had been + at the market since half-past five, tried one, and fully + confirmed the report we had heard as to their excellence and + cleanliness. At the time of our visit all these refreshment + stalls were crowded, and I felt rather tempted to join one of + the hungry merry-looking groups myself. The market was well + supplied with meat, fish, vegetables, fruit, and flowers of all + kinds, green peas, French beans, and strawberries being + specially abundant. There were quantities of queer-looking + baskets to be seen, and some curious pottery, made by the nuns + from a kind of cement. Outside the building there were men and + women hanging about with ponchos, of their own manufacture, + which they had brought in from the country, for + <span class="pagenum">Page 183<a name="Page_183" + id="Page_183"></a></span> sale. We bought some bright + specimens as presents for the children, but it took some + time to collect them, as each individual had only one to + offer. They are the work of the women, in the intervals of + household labour, and as soon as one is completed it is + sold, in order that materials for a fresh one may be + purchased. We also bought some of the carved wooden + stirrups, made in the country, and used by all the natives. + They are rather like a small coalscuttle in shape, and must + be heavy and cumbersome.</p> + + <p>From the market we went to hear high mass at the cathedral. + This is a fine building, though the interior seemed very dark. + The high altar was illuminated by hundreds of candles, whose + light shone on a crowd of kneeling women, all dressed in black, + and with black veils over their heads, the contrast between + their sombre appearance and the gilding and paintings on the + walls—handsome at a distance, but tawdry on a closer + examination—being very striking. The organ is of splendid + tone and quality and reverberated grandly through the aisles, + and the whole scene was not without a certain impressiveness. I + had not thought of paying a visit to the cathedral when I went + out this morning, and it was not until I saw every one staring + at me that I remembered I had committed the terrible mistake of + going to church in a hat, and without any veil; but we remained + in a dark corner most of the time, and emerged into open + daylight again before any of the authorities of the place had + time to observe or remonstrate with me. My wearing a hat was, + however, quite as much against all church rules as a similar + proceeding on the part of a man would have been. The women of + this city are almost always good-looking when young, and they + glide gracefully about the streets in their long black clinging + gowns and <i>mantos</i>, by which they are completely enveloped + from head to foot.</p> + + <p>In the afternoon we went for a drive in the park, and to see + Santa Lucia, of which, as the only hill in Santiago, the + <span class="pagenum">Page 184<a name="Page_184" + id="Page_184"></a></span> inhabitants of the city are very + proud, and from thence drove to the Cousiño Park, an + extensive piece of ground near the Alameda, laid out and + arranged under the direction of the late Don Luis + Cousiño, and presented by him to the city of + Santiago.</p> + + <p>After a stroll round the park, Mr. Long took us to an + emporium for Panama hats, which are made in Lima, Guayaquil, + and other states of Chili, as well as in Panama, from a special + kind of grass, split very fine, and worn by almost everybody on + this coast. The best made cost 340 dollars, or about sixty + guineas, and fifty pounds is not at all an uncommon price to + pay, though the inferior kind may be had for two pounds. Those + ordinarily worn by the gentlemen here cost from twenty to + thirty pounds each, but they are so light, pliable, and elastic + that they will wear for ever, wash like a pocket-handkerchief, + do not get burnt by the sun, and can be rolled up and sat + upon—in fact, ill-treated in any way you + like—without fear of their breaking, tearing, or getting + out of shape. For the yacht, however, where so many hats are + lost overboard, they would, I fear, prove a rather unprofitable + investment.</p> + + <p>We now drove back to the hotel, past the Mint, a handsome + building, guarded by soldiers, and with windows protected by + iron gratings. On our return I found that one of the valuable + ponchos, given to me in the Argentine Republic, had been taken + from our room. The landlord declined to trouble himself about + its recovery, as he said it was 'most unlikely that any one + would take a thing of no value to him here;' the real truth + being that the guanaco ponchos are worth nearly double as much + in Chili as they are on the other side of the Andes.</p> + + <p>After dinner we walked to the theatre, where we saw <i>La + Sonnambula</i> well put on the stage, and well sung and acted + by an Italian opera company. The <i>prima donna</i>, contralto, + baritone, and bass were all good, but the scenery was + occasionally somewhat deficient. The house, which + <span class="pagenum">Page 185<a name="Page_185" + id="Page_185"></a></span>is highly decorated—perhaps + too much so for the ladies' dresses—looked well by + night, though if it had been full the effect would have been + still better. The box-tiers are not divided into + pigeon-holes, as they are with us, and everybody can + therefore see equally well. The Presidential box seemed + commodious and handsome, and had the Chilian coat of arms in + front of it, making it look very much like a Royal box.</p> + + <p>The walk back by moonlight was delightful. Some of our party + afterwards went to the Union Club, where they met several + English gentlemen, who were most kind and pressing in their + invitations to them to stay a few days longer, and go up the + mountains to see the views and to have some guanaco shooting. + About twenty-four hours from here they say you can have your + first shot, and a little further on you meet them in herds + which may be counted by thousands. There are also wild horses + and wild donkeys. Quaggas and huemuls used to be found, but are + now extinct. The last named is a rare animal, exactly + resembling a horse in every particular, except that its hoofs + are cloven. It used only to be found in the mountains of Chili, + and it is one of the supporters of the national coat of + arms.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, October 28th</i>.—At 5 a.m. we were + called, and soon afterwards parting gifts of flowers began to + arrive, and even I was obliged to confess that four large + clothes-baskets full of rosebuds were more than I quite knew + what to do with. At seven Mr. Long came to know if he could + help us in any way, and a little later Madame Cousiño's + coachman appeared with the carriage, to take us to the + station.</p> + + <p>We had a pleasant drive down the Alameda, the sun shining + brilliantly in a bright blue sky, and the distant mountains for + the first time being clearly visible. The station was crowded + with vendors of pottery, curious things in buffalo horn, + sweetmeats, &c. The rolling stock on this line is of + English manufacture, and we were therefore put into the too + familiar, close, stuffy, first-class carriage, and + <span class="pagenum">Page 186<a name="Page_186" + id="Page_186"></a></span>duly locked up for the journey down + to Valparaiso. The line, running as it does through mountain + gorges for a great portion of the way, must have been a + difficult one to make.</p> + + <p>Just now the whole country wears a golden tint from the + bloom of the espinosa, which seems to grow everywhere, and + which is now in perfection. The branches of this shrub are so + completely covered with little yellow balls of flowers, which + come before the leaves, and which have no separate stalk, but + grow along the shiny, horny branches, that they look as if they + were made of gold. It is called the 'burning bush' here, and + its wood is said to be the hardest in the country. The flowers + are often plucked off and dried, in which state they are most + fragrant and are used for scenting linen and for keeping away + moths. The thorns, however, are a terrible nuisance to the + shepherds and owners of cattle, catching their clothes and + tearing them as they gallop swiftly across over the plains. If + I bore you by saying too much about the flowers, forgive me. I + want to make you all realise, if possible, what a lovely + flowery land Chili is. The whole air is quite perfumed with + roses, principally large double pink roses, something like the + old-fashioned cabbage rose, though there are a good many of the + monthly kind and a few white and deep scarlet ones. They formed + hedgerows on either side of the road, and in many places + climbed thirty or forty feet up the trees, and then threw down + long brambles laden with bloom, almost producing the effect of + a wall of pink. There were also plenty of wild flowers of other + sorts, such as scarlet and white lilies, larkspurs, + eschscholtzias, evening primroses, and many others whose names + I do not know.</p> + + <p>At Llaillai we stopped for breakfast, procured at a small + restaurant at the station. While waiting for the train for + Santiago to come in, we had plenty of time to observe the + half-Indian girls selling fruit, flowers, cakes, &c., and + jabbering away in a sort of <i>patois</i> Spanish, in + recommendation <span class="pagenum">Page 187<a name="Page_187" + id="Page_187"></a></span>of their wares. Some of them were + really pretty, and all were picturesquely dressed in + bright-coloured stuffs, their hair neatly done up and + decorated with flowers, their faces clean and smiling. At + 11.15 a.m. we reached Quillota, where the train was + literally besieged by men, women, and children, offering + bouquets for sale—two or three of which were thrust in + at every carriage window—and baskets of strawberries, + cherimoyas, nisperos, melons, oranges, sugar-cane, plantain, + bananas, asparagus, green peas, French beans, eggs, + chickens, and even fish—nice little pejereyes, fresh + from the stream close by. It must evidently be the custom of + the Chilenos to visit by rail these fertile districts, for + the purpose of doing their marketing; for the occupants of + the train soon absorbed the entire stock of the vendors, who + were left with empty baskets.</p> + + <p>I never saw such a country as this is for eggs and chickens. + A hen seems never to have a smaller brood than ten, and I have + often counted from seventeen to twenty-one chickens with the + mother, and, more than once, as many as twenty-four. However + well you may have breakfasted or dined, the waiters always come + at the end of the meal to ask, not <i>whether</i> you will have + any eggs, but <i>how</i> you will have them—fried, + boiled, poached, or in some sort of omelette. If you refuse + altogether, the chances are that two very lightly boiled eggs + will be placed by your side, with the suggestion that you + should beat them up and drink them. The inhabitants of the + country always seem to finish their meals with eggs in some + form or another.</p> + + <p>The celebrated 'Bell of Quillota,' a mountain which derives + its name from its peculiar shape, and which serves as a good + landmark in entering the harbour of Valparaiso, is well seen + from the railway, a little below Quillota Station. We stopped + again at Limache, a little village, situated in the midst of a + fertile country, about twenty-five miles from Valparaiso, where + fruit, flowers, &c., were as freely offered for sale as + before, and again at Viña del Mar, the next + <span class="pagenum">Page 188<a name="Page_188" + id="Page_188"></a></span>station to Valparaiso. There is a + good hotel here, in the midst of a pretty garden, where you + can get an excellent breakfast or dinner.</p> + + <p>From this spot the line runs close along the edge of the + sea, and we strained our eyes in vain, trying to discover the + yacht. At the station we were assailed by porters and touts of + every description, but, seeing no one to meet us, and not + knowing where to go, we contented ourselves with collecting our + luggage in a little heap, while a fight went on close by + between a policeman and a coachman, who had been too persistent + in his endeavours to obtain a fare. They knocked one another + about a good deal, and broke one or two windows, after which + they appeared quite satisfied, shook hands, and were good + friends again. Tom, Mabelle, and Muriel arrived before it was + over, and we were very glad to meet again after our short + absence.</p> + + <p>A long, dusty drive brought us to the mole, and while the + luggage was being packed into the boat, Tom and I went to call + on the British Consul, where we found some letters. We were on + board in time for two o'clock luncheon, after which, amid many + interruptions from visitors, we devoured our news from home and + other parts—for amongst our letters were some from Natal, + India, Japan, Canada, Teneriffe, South American ports, St. + Petersburg, Constantinople, and several other places, besides + those from dear old England.</p> + + <p>About four o'clock Tom and I went ashore. We had intended + going alone in the 'Flash' (our lightest boat), but a strong + southerly wind had sprung up, which at once made the sea so + rough that we went in the 'Gleam' (the gig) instead, with six + oars. It took the men all their time to get us ashore, though + we had not far to go, for wind, tide, and waves were all + against us.</p> + + <p>Valparaiso consists mainly of two interminable streets, + running along the edge of the sea, at the foot of the hills, + which rise immediately behind them, and on which + <span class="pagenum">Page 189<a name="Page_189" + id="Page_189"></a></span>are built all the residences and + villas of the gentlemen of the place. Very few live in the + town itself, which is composed almost entirely of large + warehouses and fine shops, where you can get almost anything + you want by paying between three and four times as much for + it as you would do in England. For instance, the charge for + hair-cutting is a dollar and a half (4s.), a + three-and-sixpenny Letts's Diary costs two dollars and a + half (10s.), a tall hat costs fifty-eight shillings, you + must pay sixpence each for parchment luggage-labels, + threepence apiece for quill pens, four shillings for a quire + of common notepaper, and so on in proportion.</p> + + <p>We had, as I have said, seen the yacht leave Lota Bay, with + a strong head-wind blowing, on Thursday, the 19th instant. In a + few hours the wind fell to a calm, which then changed to a + light favourable breeze, and the 'Sunbeam' reached Valparaiso + on the following Saturday afternoon, anchoring out in the bay, + not far from H.M.S. 'Opal.' Here they rolled and tumbled about + even more than if they had been at sea, the swinging capacities + of the saloon tables and lamps being tried to the utmost. On + Sunday half the men went ashore for a few hours' leave, but + neither they nor the boat returned until the next morning, as + they had not been allowed to leave the shore after nine + o'clock. In the meantime Tom had been told that small-pox was + raging in the town, and he was much annoyed at their having to + pass the night on shore, owing to proper inquiries as to the + regulations of the port not having been made by them on + landing. The next day the doctor went to see some medical + <i>confrères</i> at the hospital, and found that the + reports were much exaggerated, the reality being that small-pox + is always more or less prevalent both here and at Santiago. + Three months ago it was very bad, but at the present time it is + not worse than usual. Tom and Mabelle started for Santiago on + Monday, but unfortunately left their letters of introduction + behind; and as they did <span class="pagenum">Page + 190<a name="Page_190" + id="Page_190"></a></span> not like the hotel, they found it + rather dull. We could not telegraph to them from Cauquenes, + or anywhere <i>en route</i>, for there were no wires; so on + Wednesday morning, not hearing or seeing anything of us, + they returned to Valparaiso. Tom left a long letter for me, + with enclosures (which I never received), in the innkeeper's + hands, asking for a telegraphic reply as to our plans and + intentions, and, as I have already mentioned, never said a + word about coming back. Thursday was spent in seeing what + little there is to see in Valparaiso, and in visiting the + 'Opal.' On Friday Tom went for a sail, moved the yacht close + inshore, had a dinner-party on board, and went to a pleasant + ball afterwards, given by the Philharmonic Society, an + association of the same sort as the one at Rio. It was not, + however, called a regular ball, but a <i>teriulia</i>, so + the ladies were in <i>demi-toilette</i>. Tom described the + room as good, the floor first-rate, the music excellent, the + ladies good-looking, and the men agreeable. To-day he met us + at the station with the children; and now, therefore, one + account will describe the movements of the whole reunited + party.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, October 29th</i>.—We all went ashore to + church, having been told it was only five minutes' walk from + the landing-place, instead of which it took us at least a + quarter of an hour, in an intensely hot sun, to climb up a + steep hill. The building itself was large, airy, and cool, and + there is a good organ and choir, but most of the choristers had + gone away to-day to a picnic in the country. During the Litany + our attention was suddenly drawn to the fact that earthquakes + are matters of frequent occurrence in this country, by a + special prayer being offered up for preservation from them and + their destructive effects.</p> + + <p>At four o'clock we went ashore for a ride, and having + climbed the hills at the back of the town, which command + extensive views over land and sea, we galloped across the downs + and through some villages on to the old high road from + Valparaiso to Santiago, along which we rode only + <span class="pagenum">Page 191<a name="Page_191" + id="Page_191"></a></span>for a few yards, turning off into a + romantic valley, where the path was so narrow that we could + barely squeeze through between the thickly growing shrubs + and trees. At last we went up a steep hill on to another + high road, and re-entered the town quite at the opposite end + to that at which we had left it, after which a ride of two + miles along the stony, ill-paved streets brought us to the + landing-place.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, October 30th</i>.—We were to be off + directly the sea-breeze sprang up, at about eleven o'clock, and + as I had many letters to write, I was called at 4 a.m., and + finished them all before breakfast at eight. But first one + visitor and then another arrived, and it was nearly eleven + o'clock when we landed to make the final preparations for + starting on our long voyage of eleven thousand miles across the + Pacific.</p> + + <p>Our route, as at present, arranged, will be viâ the + Society, Friendly, and Sandwich Islands. Juan Fernandez + (Robinson Crusoe's Island), which we at first thought of + visiting, we have been obliged, I am sorry to say, to give up, + not on account of its distance from Valparaiso, as it is only + 270 miles off, but because it lies too far to the southward, + and is consequently quite out of the track of the trade wind, + which we ought to pick up, according to the charts and sailing + directions, about 500 miles to the northward and westward of + this place. I have been trying to persuade Tom to steam out + five or six hundred miles, so that we may make a quick passage + and economise our time as much as possible, but he is anxious + to do <i>the whole</i> voyage under sail, and we are therefore + taking very little coal on board, in order to be in the best + trim. If we do not pick up a wind, however, there is no knowing + how long we may lollop about. I suppose till we are short of + water and fresh provisions, when the fires will be lighted and + we shall steam away to the nearest island—uninhabited, we + will hope, or at any rate peopled by friendly + <span class="pagenum">Page 192<a name="Page_192" + id="Page_192"></a></span>natives, which is rather the + exception than the rule in the south-east corner of the Low + Archipelago. There we shall fill up with fresh water, + bananas, bread-fruit, and perhaps a wild hog or two, and + resume our voyage to Tahiti. But this is the least + favourable view of the matter, and we must hope to fall in + with the trades soon, and that they will blow strong and + true.</p> + + <p>The island of Juan Fernandez now belongs to the Chilian + government, but is let on a long lease to a man who, they say + here, is somewhat of a robber. He was very desirous that we + should give him a passage in the yacht, and another man wanted + to come too, with some pointers, to show us the best spots for + game, goats, turtle, crayfish, and sea-fish, with all of which + the place abounds. Some cattle have also been introduced, and + the island is much frequented by whalers, who go there for + fresh provisions and water. There is nothing particular to be + seen, however, and the scenery of the island is not remarkable; + at least, so people who have been there tell us, and the + photographs I have bought quite confirm their report. Admiral + Simpson, who stayed there once for a fortnight, told us a good + deal about the place, and strongly recommended us not to go + there unless we had plenty of time to spare, as we should not + be repaid for our trouble, which would probably only result in + the dissipation of all our childish illusions.</p> + + <p>Our first step on landing this morning was to go to the + Consul's to post our letters. By the bye, I hope people in + England will appreciate them, for they cost between nine and + ten pounds to send home. For our outward letters, although + prepaid in England, we had to pay over eight pounds before we + were allowed to have them from the office. Twenty-nine cases of + stores, provisions, wine, &c., which had also been sent + out, all arrived safely, and cost comparatively little. There + are very good French hair-dressers here, a tempting hat-shop, + and a well-stocked <span class="pagenum">Page + 193<a name="Page_193" + id="Page_193"></a></span>book-shop; but everything, as I + have said, is frightfully dear.</p> + + <p>It was half-past three when the harbour-tug arrived to tow + us out of the harbour and so save our getting up steam. There + was not a breath of air stirring, but Tom hoped we should find + more outside when the tug cast us off. As we dropped slowly + out, we had a good view of the harbour and town; and we soon + found ourselves once more fairly embarked on the bosom of the + wide ocean.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 194<a name="Page_194" + id="Page_194"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XII" + id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">VALPARAISO TO TAHITI.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>The western sea was all + aflame,</i><br /></span> <span><i>The day was well nigh + done!</i><br /></span> <span><i>Almost upon the western + wave</i><br /></span> <span><i>Rested the broad bright + sun.</i><br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Tuesday, October 31st</i>.—Throughout the night a + flat calm prevailed. The morning was wet and foggy, or we might + still have seen Valparaiso, and perhaps have had a peep at + Aconcagua. There was a light contrary wind from the N.W. + throughout the day. In the afternoon we saw two whales blowing + in the distance.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, November 1st</i>.—An almost calm day, + with a few light showers, and fitful but unfavourable breezes. + Some thirty or forty little birds, which the sailors called + Mother Carey's chickens, but which were smaller and more + graceful than any I have seen of that name, followed closely in + our wake. I was never tired of watching the dainty way in which + they just touched the tips of the waves with their feet, and + then started off afresh, like a little maiden skipping and + hopping along, from sheer exuberance of spirit.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, November 2nd</i>.—A bright sunny morning, + with a heavy swell and light contrary wind, but the sea became + more tranquil towards the evening. The sunset was superb, and + the afterglow, as is often the case in these latitudes, lighted + up sky and sea with an indescribable beauty, which attained its + greatest magnificence about five minutes after the sun had + disappeared, reminding one of the <span class="pagenum">Page + 195<a name="Page_195" + id="Page_195"></a></span> glorious sunsets of the African + deserts, so often described by travellers.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, November 3rd</i>.—Still a blue sky, bright + sunshine, smooth sea, and light head-wind. The crew have all + turned tailors, and are making themselves new suits from some + dungaree we bought at Valparaiso, the clothes we expected for + them not having met us there.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_210" + id="Illus_210"></a> <img src="images/t_210.jpg" + width="240" + height="183" + alt="Illustration: Juvenile Scrubbers" + title="Illustration: Juvenile Scrubbers" /><br /> + <b>Juvenile Scrubbers</b><br /> + <a href="images/210.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Saturday, November 4th</i>.—As fine as ever. This + is certainly sailing luxuriously, if not swiftly. We have now + settled down into our regular sea-ways, and have plenty to do + on board; so the delay does not much signify. Still, our time + is limited, and we all hope to fall in with the trades shortly + to carry us to Tahiti or some of the South Sea islands. We + caught half-a-dozen of the little petrels, for stuffing, by + floating lines of black cotton astern, in which they became + entangled.</p> + + <p>To-night's sunset was more superb than ever. Each moment + produced a new and ever increasingly grand effect. I mean to + try and take an instantaneous photograph of + <span class="pagenum">Page 196<a name="Page_196" + id="Page_196"></a></span>one. It would not, of course, + reproduce all the marvellous shades of colouring, but it + would perhaps give some idea of the forms of the masses of + cloud, which are finer than any I ever saw before. This + ocean seems to give one, in a strange way, a sense of solemn + vastness, which was not produced to the same extent by the + Atlantic. Whether this results from our knowledge of its + size, or whether it is only fancy, I cannot say, but it is + an impression which we all share.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, November 5th</i>.—Fine, and considerably + hotter, though not unpleasantly so. We had the Litany at + eleven, and evening prayers and a sermon at four o'clock. Not a + single ship has passed within sight since we left Valparaiso, + and the only living creatures we have seen are some + albatrosses, a few white boobies, a cape-hen, the little + petrels already mentioned, a shoal of porpoises, and two + whales.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, November 6th</i>.—Passed, at 3 a.m. to-day, + a large barque, steering south, and at 8 a.m. a full-rigged + ship, steering the same course. We held—as we do with + every ship we pass—a short conversation with her through + the means of the mercantile code of signals. (This habit of + exchanging signals afterwards proved to have been a most useful + practice, for when the report that the 'Sunbeam' had gone down + with all hands was widely circulated through England, I might + almost say the world,—for we found the report had + preceded us by telegram to almost all the later ports we + touched at,—the anxiety of our friends was relieved many + days sooner than it would otherwise have been by the fact of + our having spoken the German steamer 'Sakhara,' in the Magellan + Straits, Oct. 13, four days after we were supposed to have gone + to the bottom.) The weather continues fine, and we have the + same light baffling winds. We hoped, when we started, to + average at least 200 miles a day, but now we have been a week + at sea, and have only made good a little more than 700 miles + altogether, though we have sailed over 800 miles through + <span class="pagenum">Page 197<a name="Page_197" + id="Page_197"></a></span>the water. It is, however, + wonderful, in the opinion of the navigators, that we have + made even as much progress as this, considering the very + adverse circumstances under which the voyage has so far been + performed, and we must endeavour to console ourselves with + the reflection that the sailing qualities of the yacht have + undergone another severe test in a satisfactory manner. How + the provisions and water will last out, and what time we + shall leave ourselves to see anything of Japan, are + questions which, nevertheless, occasionally present + themselves to our minds. Independently of such + considerations, nothing could be more luxurious and + delightful than our present mode of + <span class="pagenum">Page 198<a name="Page_198" + id="Page_198"></a></span>existence. With perfect weather, + plenty of books to read and writing to do, no possibility of + interruptions, one can map out one's day and dispose of + one's time exactly as one pleases, until the half-past six + o'clock dressing-bell—which always seems to come long + before it is wanted—recalls one to the duties and + necessities of life.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_212" + id="Illus_212"></a> <img src="images/t_212.jpg" + width="149" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Conversation at Sea" + title="Illustration: Conversation at Sea" /><br /> + <b>Conversation at Sea</b><br /> + <a href="images/212.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Wednesday, November 8th</i>.—A grey cloudy morning + and a flat calm. At twelve o'clock, to the great joy of + everybody on board, Tom decided to get up steam, as we have now + been becalmed quite twenty-four hours, and have made but little + progress in the right direction for some days. The alacrity + with which the order to stow sails and raise the funnel was + obeyed—every one lending a hand—and the delight + expressed on every countenance, must have assured him of at + least the popularity of his decision.</p> + + <p>Whilst we were waiting for steam to be got up, Tom took + Muriel and me for a row in the 'Flash,' his own particular + little boat, with about four inches of freeboard. The + possibility of doing this will give you a better idea of the + tranquillity of this vast ocean than any description I can + write. At the same time, when we wanted to get into the boat, + we found there was a considerable roll on, and that it was no + easy matter without the aid of a gangway or ladder. We rowed a + little way from the yacht, and, considering how quiet it had + seemed to us when on board, it was wonderful to observe how she + rolled in the trough of the sea, without sails to steady her or + motive power to guide her. The Lota coals, though black and + dirty beyond description, burn up very quickly, and in about an + hour we were steaming merrily along, the Arabian horseshoe on + our bowsprit's end being now pointed direct for the island of + Tahiti, instead of for wherever the wind chose to blow us.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, November 9th</i>.—A flat calm at 6 a.m.; + a very light fair wind at 9 a.m. In spite of my remonstrances, + <span class="pagenum">Page 199<a name="Page_199" + id="Page_199"></a></span> Tom determined, at half-past nine, + to cease steaming and try sailing again. About twelve + o'clock a puff came that sent us along at the rate of 10-1/2 + knots for a short time; but it soon dropped, and during the + rest of the afternoon and evening, our average speed was + only three or four knots an hour. This is very poor work for + the trades, but I don't believe we are really in them yet, + in spite of the wind charts. It is possible that they may + vary in different years; besides which it is now the height + of summer, with the sun south of the line, which would + naturally make them lighter.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, November 11th</i>.—At last we seem to be + feeling the influence of the trades, as the wind continues to + blow from the same direction, though it varies much in force. + Sometimes we are going along at the rate of 11-3/4 knots, + sometimes barely five. In the afternoon we had the usual + Saturday singing practice.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, November 12th</i>.—Another lovely day. We + had the Litany and hymns at eleven, evening service and sermon + at four.</p> + + <p>Just before morning church some one turned on the water in + the nursery bath, and forgot to turn it off again, so that when + we came aft from the saloon we had the pleasure of finding + everything in the children's cabins afloat, and that a good + deal of water had got down into the hold. It was rather + annoying at the time, but, I dare say, like many other present + troubles, it was a good thing in the end. It obliged us, at any + rate, to have all the stores brought up on deck, and led to our + taking an inventory of our resources sooner than we should + otherwise have done. I am sorry to say we found that, owing to + the departure of our head steward and the illness of his + successor, they have not been husbanded as carefully as they + should have been, especially those provided for use forward. + Sailors are more like children than grown-up men, and require + as much looking after. While there is water in the tanks, for + <span class="pagenum">Page 200<a name="Page_200" + id="Page_200"></a></span>instance, they will use it in the + most extravagant manner, without thought for the morrow; and + they are quite as reckless with their other stores.</p> + + <p>I find, however, that one of the drawbacks to taking a very + close personal interest in the housekeeping arrangements on + board is the too intimate acquaintance one makes with the + various individuals composing the live stock, the result being + that the private particular history of every chicken, duck, + turkey, and joint of mutton is apt to be remembered with a + damaging effect to appetite.</p> + + <p>In the afternoon two boobies, the first birds we have seen + for some days, paid us a visit. I suppose we are too far out to + see anything more of our pretty little friends, the + petrels.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, November 13th</i>.—We had a regular + turn-out and re-arrangement of our stores to-day, and + discovered that the waste and mismanagement have been greater + even than we at first supposed. Fortunately, we found some + spare tins of provisions stowed away under the nursery floor + and forgotten, and which will now come in very opportunely. But + I fear that, even as it is, we may be seriously inconvenienced + before getting to the end of our voyage. Of the six sheep, + sixty chickens, thirty ducks, and four dozen pigeons, brought + on board alive at Valparaiso, we have comparatively few left, + and not a great deal to give those few to eat; so we must + depend mainly on our potted meats and vegetables, which happen + to be excellent. We often wonder how the earlier navigators got + on, when there were no such things as tinned provisions, and + when the facilities for carrying water were of the poorest + description, while they were often months and months at sea, + without an opportunity of replenishing their stores, and with + no steam-power to fall back upon in case they were becalmed. + Still more wonderful, in my opinion, is the successful manner + in which the Spaniards managed to convey their hordes in tiny + vessels, together with a <span class="pagenum">Page + 201<a name="Page_201" + id="Page_201"></a></span>sufficient quantity of forage for + them, to the New World, where, according to all accounts, + they generally arrived in good condition, fit to go to work + or to war immediately.</p> + + <p>The wind increased in the evening and blew dead aft. In the + middle of the night the mizen-halyards broke, and blocks and + all came down with a tremendous crash, which caused both Tom + and me to rush up on deck. About an hour and a half's work put + everything straight again, however, though it looked a sad mess + at first. We had been remarking at dinner how lucky we had + been, with all this rolling about in calms and running before + the wind, not to have had anything carried away or any of the + ropes chafed. Personally, I think the accident is not to be + regretted, for now all the fore and aft canvas is stowed, and + we are running under square canvas alone, which is much + steadier work, though we still roll considerably.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, November 14th</i>.—Fine, with a strong + fair wind. I have been laid up for a few days with a touch of + my old enemy, Syrian fever, but am gradually recovering, and + enjoy very much lying on deck and reading.</p> + + <p>Our victualling arrangements have now been satisfactorily + settled, and everybody has been put on an allowance of water, + our supply of which will last the whole ship's company of forty + persons for five weeks, leaving one tank still in reserve in + case of accidents. As we expect to reach our destination in + about three weeks from the present time, we have therefore, I + hope, an ample supply for all our requirements.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, November 15th</i>.—Pleasant as we have + found life at sea in the South Pacific hitherto, it is, I fear, + monotonous to read about, and I dare say you will find it + difficult to realise how quickly the days fly past, and how + sorry we are when each one comes to an end. I am afraid they + are among those things which do not repeat themselves. At any + rate, they afford a golden opportunity for reading, such as we + are not likely to have again often, if ever, in + <span class="pagenum">Page 202<a name="Page_202" + id="Page_202"></a></span>our busy lives; and Tom and I are + endeavouring to make the best use of it by getting through + as many of the seven hundred volumes we brought with us as + possible. The weather favours us in our endeavours to be + industrious; for, while it is sufficiently warm to indispose + one for a very severe course of study, it has never been so + hot as to compel us to lie down and do nothing but gasp for + breath—which is what we were warned to expect. There + is indeed one slight drawback to the perfect enjoyment of + our present state of existence, and that is the incessant + motion of the vessel. When she rolls as quickly as she has + done to-day, it is difficult to settle down steadily to any + occupation, and at last one cannot help feeling aggravated + at the persistent manner in which everything, including + one's self, refuses to be still for a single instant.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, November 16th</i>.—To-day it is really + warm—not to say hot—with a bright cloudless sky, + which renders an awning acceptable. We saw some 'bo's'n' birds + for the first time, and more shoals of flying-fish. I wish a + few of the latter would come on board; they would be an + agreeable addition to our breakfast-table.</p> + + <p>The rolling still continues, the wind being dead aft, and + nothing but our square canvas being set. The effect is rather + wearisome, and one longs to be able to say 'Catch hold of her + head and keep her still, if only for five minutes' peace and + quietness!' Cooking is difficult, and even eating is a + hazardous occupation; and at our evening game of cards we have + to pocket our counters and markers and hold on as best we + can.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, November 17th</i>.—At 8 a.m. the course was + altered, our fore-and-aft canvas was set again, and we were + once more gliding along swiftly and smoothly through the water, + to the great relief of every one on board. The day was lovely, + and though it was warm, a pleasant breeze throughout the ship + prevented our feeling uncomfortably hot.</p> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 203<a name="Page_203" + id="Page_203"></a></span><i>Saturday, November + 18th</i>.—The days are so much alike that it is + difficult to find anything special to say about them. They + fly so quickly that I was surprised to be reminded by the + usual singing-practice this afternoon that another week had + gone by.</p> + + <p>The two green paroquets, 'Coco' and 'Meta,' given to me by + Mr. Fisher at Rosario, have turned out dear little pets, with + the most amusing ways. They are terrible thieves, especially of + sugar, pencils, pens, and paper, and being nearly always at + liberty, they follow me about just like dogs, and coax and + caress me with great affection. They do not care much for any + one else, though they are civil to all and good-tempered even + to the children, who, I am afraid, rather bore them with their + attempts at petting. The other foreign birds, of which I have a + large collection, are doing well, and I begin to hope I shall + get them home safely after all. We had at one time about twenty + parrots, belonging to the men, on board, all running about on + deck forward, with their wings clipped, but about half of them + have been lost overboard. The dogs keep their health and + spirits wonderfully. Félise is quite young again, and + she and Lulu have great games, tearing up and down and around + the decks as hard as they can go.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, November 19th</i>.—I am convalescent at + last, and appeared at breakfast this morning for the first time + for ten days.</p> + + <p>The wind was very variable throughout the day. Between 6 and + 7 a.m. we were going twelve knots; between 7 and 8 only three; + but as we never stop, we manage to make up a fair average on + the whole.</p> + + <p>At eleven o'clock we had the Communion Service and two + hymns. At midday the week's work was made up, with the + following result. Our position was in lat. 15° 38' S., + long. 117° 52' W.; we were 3,057 miles from + Valparaiso,—1,335 of which had been accomplished since + last Sunday,—and 1,818 miles from Tahiti.</p> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 204<a name="Page_204" + id="Page_204"></a></span>To-day we were not far from Easter + Island, the southernmost island of Polynesia. Here as in the + Ladrones, far away in the north-west quarter of the Pacific, + most curious inscriptions are sometimes found carved in + stone. Annexed is a photograph taken from one I saw at a + later stage of the voyage.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_219" + id="Illus_219"></a> <img src="images/t_219.jpg" + width="240" + height="107" + alt="Illustration: Inscription from Easter Island" + title="Illustration: Inscription from Easter Island" /><br /> + + <b>Inscription from Easter Island</b><br /> + <a href="images/219.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>The sails had been flapping, more or less, all day, and at + the change of the dog-watches, at six o'clock, Tom ordered the + men aft to stow the mizen. This they had scarcely begun to do + when a light breeze sprang up, and in a few minutes increased + to a strong one, before which we bowled along at the rate of + nine knots. These sudden changes are of constant occurrence, + and, coming as they do without the slightest warning, are quite + inexplicable. If only we had our old square sails, and our + bigger yards and topmast, we should have saved a good deal of + time already; for one or two knots an hour extra amount to from + 25 to 50 miles a day, and in a month's run the difference would + not be far short of 1,500 miles. But we heard so much from + people in England, who had visited these parts, of squalls and + hurricanes, that Tom did not like to run the risk of being + over-sparred, especially with a wife and children as + passengers.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, November 20th</i>.—The fore-and-aft sails + were taken in, as they were doing no good and the square + <span class="pagenum">Page 205<a name="Page_205" + id="Page_205"></a></span>canvas was drawing. This allowed + the mizen-awning to be spread, making a pleasant place to + sit in and a capital playground for the children, who + scamper about all day long, and do not appear to feel the + heat a bit.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, November 21st</i>.—Certainly a <i>very</i> + hot day. We made steady progress under the same canvas as + yesterday.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, November 22nd</i>.—Between 2 and 3 a.m. + a nice breeze sprang up, and between 3 and 4.30 a.m. all the + fore-and-aft sails were again set. It was deliciously cool on + deck at that time; but the sun rose fierce and hot, and more or + less killed the breeze as the day wore on.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, November 23rd</i>.—Twenty-four days out. + We had hoped to reach Tahiti to-day, and Tom begins to regret + that he did not steam some distance out from Valparaiso, so as + to pick up the trades sooner. Still it is satisfactory to know + how well the 'Sunbeam' can and does sail against light contrary + winds, and to have an opportunity of developing some of her + good points, of which we were previously hardly aware. How she + manages to slip along as she does, four or five knots an hour, + with not sufficient wind to blow a candle out, is a marvel to + every one on board. More than once, when the hand-log has shown + that we were going five knots, I have carried a naked light + from one end of the deck to the other without its being + extinguished.</p> + + <p>The sunrise was magnificent, and a splendid albatross, the + largest we have yet seen, was at the same time visible in + mid-air, floating against the rose-coloured clouds. He looked + so grand, and calm, and majestic, that one could almost fancy + him the bird of Jove himself, descending direct from the sun. + Where do these birds rest? How far and how fast do they really + fly? are questions for the naturalist. We have seen them many + times at a distance of at least two thousand miles from the + nearest land.</p> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 206<a name="Page_206" + id="Page_206"></a></span>About nine o'clock there was a + slight breeze, but it fell as the sun rose, and the day was + intensely hot.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, November 24th</i>.—A fine breeze in the + early morning, which, however, gradually died away. Having now + quitted the regular track of the trade winds and got into the + variables, we lighted fires at two o'clock. Then another light + breeze sprang up for a few minutes, only to fall away again + immediately, and at six o'clock we commenced to steam.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, November 25th</i>.—A very wet morning, + the sky clearing at about ten, but the weather remaining dull, + heavy, hot, and oppressive, throughout the day. But we were + making good progress under steam, which rendered the state of + things more endurable than it would otherwise have been.</p> + + <p>Whilst I was standing on deck at night a flying-fish flew + against my throat and hung there, caught in the lace of my + dress. He is a pretty specimen, but only his wings are to be + preserved, for Muriel will have his body for breakfast + to-morrow.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, November 26th</i>.—Our fourth consecutive + Sunday at sea, and out of sight of land. At 4 a.m. the sails + were spread to a good breeze. At 7 we stopped steaming, but at + 10 the wind again fell light. The Litany was read on deck this + morning on account of the heat. The observations at noon showed + that we were in lat. 15° 47' S., long. 135° 20' W., the + distance accomplished during the last twenty-four hours being + 181 miles. We have now made good 4,067 miles from Valparaiso, + and are 815 miles distant from Tahiti. At 5 p.m. we had prayers + and a sermon, also on deck. It was then almost calm, and at + eight o'clock we again began steaming, in order to insure our + making the island of Tatakotoroa, 200 miles off, before dark + to-morrow.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, November 27th</i>.—I was on deck at 3.30 + a.m. Everybody on board was more or less excited at the + <span class="pagenum">Page 207<a name="Page_207" + id="Page_207"></a></span>prospect of making land, after + twenty-eight days at sea. It was a delicious morning, with a + favourable breeze, and under steam and sail we progressed at + the rate of from 10 to 11-1/2 knots an hour. Several birds + flew on board, amongst whom were two boobies, who hovered + round us and appeared to examine everything with great + curiosity, especially the little wind-vanes at the extremity + of the masts. At last they settled on the foretopmast, + whereupon one of the sailors went up to try and catch them. + They observed his movements closely, and appeared to be + specially interested in his cap; but as he approached, first + one and then the other flew away for a few yards, and then + returned to his former position. At last the man, watching + his opportunity, managed to seize one of them by his legs + and bring him down in triumph, despite flapping wings and + pecks from a sharp beak. He was shut up in the + fowl-pen—now, alas, empty of its proper + denizens—where we had an opportunity of examining him + before he was killed. He was a fine, handsome, grey bird, + with large blue eyes, and a wild hawk-like look.</p> + + <p>At one o'clock we were almost sailing over the spot marked + by Findlay as the situation of Tatakotopoto, or Anonymous + Island; but there was nothing whatever visible in the shape of + land, even from the masthead, where a man was stationed, and + from which it was possible to see a distance of ten or fifteen + miles. Tom went up himself several times and scanned the + horizon carefully, but in vain. It is therefore evident either + that the position of the island is incorrectly stated, or that + it has become submerged. I believe that in these seas there are + many islands marked that have no existence, and that several + that do exist are not marked, which renders it necessary to + keep a constant good look-out. What a charming task it would be + thoroughly to survey these parts, and to correct the present + charts where necessary, and how much I should like to be one of + the officers appointed for the service!</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_223" + id="Illus_223"></a> <img src="images/t_223.jpg" + width="240" + height="170" + alt="Illustration: Tatakotoroa or Clarke Island" + title="Illustration: Tatakotoroa or Clarke Island" /><br /> + <b>Tatakotoroa or Clarke Island</b><br /> + <a href="images/223.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 208<a name="Page_208" + id="Page_208"></a></span></p> + + <div class="figright"> + <a name="Illus_224" + id="Illus_224"></a> <img src="images/t_224-1.gif" + width="160" + height="400" + alt="Illustration: Going up the Mast in a Chair" + title="Illustration: Going up the Mast in a Chair" /><br /> + <b>Going up the Mast in a Chair</b><br /> + <a href="images/224-1.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>At 1.30 p.m. land was sighted from the mast-head, and at two + o'clock I saw from the deck what looked like plumes of dark + ostrich feathers rising from the sea. This was the island of + Tatakotoroa—also known as Narcissus, or Clarke + Island—to the eastward of the Paumotu or Low Archipelago + of the South Seas. The sailing directions describe the + inhabitants as 'hostile,' and Sir Edward Belcher mentions that + some of them tried to cut off the boats sent from a man-of-war + for water. We were therefore afraid to attempt a landing, but + sailed as near as we could to the shore, which, surrounded by a + rampart of snow-white coral, and clothed almost to the water's + edge with feathery palms, cocoa-nut trees, and luxuriant + vegetation of various kinds, looked very tempting. A few canoes + were drawn up on the beach near a large hut, out of which three + or four natives came, and, having looked at us for some time, + ran off into the woods. Blue smoke could be seen curling up + from several points of the forest, no doubt indicating the + presence of more natives, whose dwellings were concealed by the + trees.</p> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 209<a name="Page_209" + id="Page_209"></a></span></p> + + <p>After lunch, Tom had me hoisted up to the foretopmast-head + in a 'boatswain's chair,' which is simply a small plank, + suspended by ropes at the four corners, and used by the men to + sit on when they scrape the masts. I was very carefully secured + with a rope tied round my petticoats, and, knocking against the + various ropes on my way, was then gently hoisted up to what + seemed at first a giddy height; but when once I got accustomed + to the smallness of the seat, the airiness of my perch, and the + increased roll of the vessel, I found my position by no means + an unpleasant one. Tom climbed up the rigging and joined me + shortly afterwards. From our elevated post we could see plainly + the formation of the island, and the lagoon in the centre, + encircled by a band of coral, in some places white, bare, and + narrow, in others wide and covered with palm-trees and rich + vegetation; it was moreover <span class="pagenum">Page + 210<a name="Page_210" + id="Page_210"></a></span>possible to understand better the + theory of the formation of these coral islands. I was so + happy up aloft that I did not care to descend; and it was + almost as interesting to observe what a strange and + disproportioned appearance everything and everybody on board + the yacht presented from my novel position, as it was to + examine the island we were passing. The two younger children + and the dogs took the greatest interest in my aërial + expedition, and never ceased calling to me and barking, + until I was once more let down safely into their midst. As + soon as we had seen all we could of the island, fires were + banked, and we proceeded under sail alone throughout the + evening and night.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_225" + id="Illus_225"></a> <img src="images/t_224-2.jpg" + width="240" + height="180" + alt="Illustration: Children looking up" + title="Illustration: Children looking up" /><br /> + <b>Children looking up</b><br /> + <a href="images/224-2.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 211<a name="Page_211" + id="Page_211"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" + id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>And all throughout the air there reigned the + sense</i><br /></span> <span><i>Of waking dream with + luscious thoughts o'erladen</i>,<br /></span> + <span><i>Of joy too conscious made and too + intense</i><br /></span> <span><i>By the swift advent + of excessive Aiden</i>,<br /></span> + <span><i>Bewilderment of beauty's + affluence</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Tuesday, November 28th</i>.—We passed Anaa, or + Chain Island, in the morning watch, before daybreak. I came on + deck to try and get a glimpse of it, and was rewarded by a + glorious sunrise. We had a nice eight-knot breeze and a strong + current in our favour, and just before breakfast Tom descried + from the masthead Amanu, or Möller Island, which we had + hardly expected to make before ten or eleven o'clock. Some one + remarked that it seemed almost as if it had come out to meet + us. The reef encircling this island varies much in height and + vegetation. In some places it supports a noble grove of trees, + in others the sea breaks over the half-submerged coral-bed, the + first obstacle it has met for 4,000 miles, with a roar like + thunder.</p> + + <p>Before we had lost sight of Amanu, the island of Hao Harpe, + or Bow Island, was visible on our port bow. I wished very much + to land, and at last persuaded Tom, who was rather anxious on + the score of the natives, to allow some of us to make the + attempt, us cautioning to turn away from the shore directly, in + case the islanders looked at all doubtful in their attitude and + intentions. After lunch, therefore, we hove to, and the gig's + crew were <span class="pagenum">Page 212<a name="Page_212" + id="Page_212"></a></span>ordered to arm themselves with + revolvers and rifles, which they were not to show unless + required to do so. All the gentlemen had revolvers, and + Mabelle and I were also provided with two small ones, + Phillips and Muriel being the only unarmed members of the + party. I took a bag full of beads, knives, looking-glasses, + and pictures, for barter and presents, and with these + preparations we set off to make our first personal + acquaintance with the islanders of the South Pacific. Tom + gave us a tow to windward, and we then rowed direct to a + point on one side of the entrance to the lagoon, where we + saw some natives waving something white. As we approached we + could distinguish several figures standing on the point, + under the shade of some cocoa-nut trees, and on the opposite + side of the entrance some canoes were drawn up on the beach, + by the side of a hut, close to a large clump of low trees. + We were by this time surrounded by breakers, and it required + no little skill to steer the boat safely through the broken + water, between the race of the tide on one side, and the + overfall from the coral reef on the other. It was + successfully done, however, and, having rounded the point, + we found ourselves at once in the waters of the tranquil + lagoon. We should have preferred to land at the point, had + it been possible, as it was doubtful whether it would be + safe to go round the corner, and so lose sight of the yacht; + but the intentions of the natives seemed peaceable, several + of them running into the water up to their waists to meet + us, while others could be seen hurrying along the beach, the + women carrying what looked like bunches of fruit.</p> + + <p>It is really impossible to describe the beauty of the scene + before us. Submarine coral forests, of every colour, studded + with sea-flowers, anemones, and echinidæ, of a brilliancy + only to be seen in dreamland, shoals of the brightest and + swiftest fish darting and flashing in and out; shells, everyone + of which was fit to hold the place of honour in a + conchologist's collection, moving slowly along + <span class="pagenum">Page 213<a name="Page_213" + id="Page_213"></a></span> with their living inmates: this is + what we saw when we looked down, from the side of the boat, + into the depths below. The surface of the water glittered + with every imaginable tint, from the palest aquamarine to + the brightest emerald, from the pure light blue of the + turquoise to the deep dark blue of the sapphire, and was + dotted here and there with patches of red, brown, and green + coral, rising from the mass below. Before us, on the shore, + there spread the rich growth of tropical vegetation, shaded + by palms and cocoa-nuts, and enlivened by the presence of + native women in red, blue, and green garments, and men in + motley costumes, bringing fish, fowls, and bunches of + cocoa-nuts, borne, like the grapes brought back from the + land of Canaan by the spies, on poles.</p> + + <p>As soon as we touched the shore the men rushed forward to + meet us, and to shake hands, and, having left the muskets and + revolvers judiciously out of sight in the boat, we were + conducted to a cluster of huts, made of branches, or rather + leaves, of the palm-tree, tied by their foot-stalks across two + poles, and hanging down to the ground. Here we were met by the + women and children, who, likewise, all went through the + ceremony of shaking hands with us, after which the head-woman, + who was very good-looking, and was dressed in a cherry-coloured + calico gown, with two long plaits of black hair hanging down + her back, spread a mat for me to sit upon just outside the hut. + By this time there was quite a little crowd of people assembled + round, amongst whom I noticed one woman with a baby, who had + her hair sticking straight out all round her head, and another + who held a portion of her dress constantly before her face. + After the gentlemen had walked away she removed the cloth, and + I then saw that her nose had been cut off. Most of the women + were good-looking, with dark complexions and quantities of + well-greased, neatly-plaited black hair, but we did not see a + single young girl, though there were plenty of children and + babies, and lots of boys, <span class="pagenum">Page + 214<a name="Page_214" + id="Page_214"></a></span>the latter of whom, like some of + the older women, had only a piece of palm matting round + their loins. We therefore came to the conclusion that the + girls must have been sent away intentionally when the + approach of the yacht was observed.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_229" + id="Illus_229"></a> <img src="images/t_229.jpg" + width="229" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Our First Landing in the South Pacific, Hao or Bow Island" + title="Illustration: Our First Landing in the South Pacific, Hao or Bow Island" /> + <br /> + <b>Our First Landing in the South Pacific, Hao or Bow + Island</b><br /> + <a href="images/229.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>As soon as I was seated, the head-woman told one of the men + to knock down some cocoa-nuts from the trees close by, and + after cutting off the ends she offered us a drink of the fresh + cool milk, which was all the sweeter and better for the fact + that the nuts were not nearly ripe. While this was going on, + the natives brought piles of cocoa-nuts, fish, and fowls, and + laid them at our feet as a present. Some of the fish were of a + dark brown colour, like bream, others were long and thin, with + a pipe-like nose and four fins, somewhat resembling the wings + of a flying-fish. <span class="pagenum">Page + 215<a name="Page_215" + id="Page_215"></a></span></p> + + <p>Seeing smoke in the distance, rising from under some high + palm-trees, we thought we should like to go and see whence it + proceeded, and accordingly set off to walk through a sort of + bush, over sharp coral that cut one's boots terribly, the sun + blazing down upon us fiercely all the time, until we reached a + little settlement, consisting of several huts, the inhabitants + of which were absent. Fine plaited mats for beds, cocoa-nut + shells for cups, mother-of-pearl shells for plates, and coral, + of various kinds and shapes, for dishes and cooking utensils, + formed their only furniture. We saw three women, one very old, + with nothing but a palm-leaf mat as a covering, the others + dressed in the apparently universal costume, consisting of a + long bright-coloured gown, put into a yoke at the shoulders, + and flowing thence loosely to the ground, which completely + conceals the wearer's form, even to the tips of her toes. I + think these dresses must come from England or America, for they + are evidently machine-made, and the cotton-stuft of which they + are composed has the most extraordinary patterns printed on it + I ever saw. Cherry and white, dark blue and yellow or white + stripes, red with yellow spots, and blue with yellow crosses, + appear to be the favourite designs. The women seemed gentle and + kind, and were delighted with some beads, looking-glasses, and + knives I gave them, in return for which they brought us + quantities of beautiful shells.</p> + + <p>We saw the large iron knee of a vessel in one spot during + our walk, and wondered how it came there. In another place we + saw a canoe in process of construction, ingeniously made of + boards, sewed together with plaited palm-leaves. The canoes in + use here are very high, long, and narrow, and are only kept + from upsetting by means of a tremendous outrigger, consisting + of a log fastened to the extremity of two bent pieces of wood, + projecting sideways from each end of the boat. The only animals + we met with in our ramble were four pigs and a few chickens, + and no other <span class="pagenum">Page 216<a name="Page_216" + id="Page_216"></a></span>live stock of any kind was visible. + No attempt seemed to be made at the cultivation of the + ground; and I think, if there had been, we must have + observed it, for our party separated and walked a good + distance in various directions.</p> + + <p>The natives made us understand that on the other side of the + entrance to the lagoon, in the better sort of house we had + noticed, there resided a white man. He did not, however, make + his appearance during our visit, and I imagine he must have + been one of those individuals called 'beach-combers,' referred + to in so many of the books that treat of the South Sea + Islands,—a sort of ne'er-do-well Englishman or American, + rather afraid of meeting any of his own countrymen, but very + clever at making a bargain between a ship's crew and the + natives, with considerable profit to himself.</p> + + <p>Among the bushes we found numbers of large hermit-crabs, + crawling, or rather running, about in whelk shells, half a + dozen of them occasionally having a grand fight amongst + themselves. We picked up at least twenty different sorts of + gracefully shaped pieces of coral, and quantities of shells of + an infinite variety of form and colour; cowries, helmet-shells, + the shells from which cameos are sometimes cut; mother-of-pearl + shells, and a large spiral univalve, nearly a foot long, with + dark brown spots and stripes on a delicate cream-coloured + ground, like the skin of a tiger or leopard. On our way back to + the huts we peeped into several of the canoes drawn up on the + beach, in which were some fish-spears and a fish-hook, nearly + three inches long, made of solid mother-of-pearl, the natural + curve of the shell from which it was cut being preserved. A + piece of bone was securely fastened to it by means of some + pig's hair, but there was no bait, and it seems that the + glitter of the mother-of-pearl alone serves as a sufficient + allurement to the fish.</p> + + <p>In nearly all accounts of voyages in the South Seas much + space is devoted to the description of the purchase, + <span class="pagenum">Page 217<a name="Page_217" + id="Page_217"></a></span> or rather barter, of hogs. We + thought we could not do better than follow as far as + possible the example of our predecessors, and accordingly + bought two little pigs for two shillings each. They were + evidently quite pets, lying on the mats outside the huts, + and coming when called, just like dogs. The one I first + bought appeared to be quite happy and content to be carried + under my arm. The natives seemed quite to understand the + value of money, and did not hesitate to ask for it in return + for the cocoa-nuts full of shells which they brought us. I + fancy some of the Tahiti schooners trade here for pearl, + shells, and bêche-de-mer.</p> + + <p>The cocoa-nuts, fowls, fish, coral, &c., having been put + into our boat, we shook hands with the friendly islanders and + embarked, and having rounded the point we soon found ourselves + again in the broken water outside the lagoon, where the race of + the tide and the overfall were now much more violent than they + had been when we landed. If we had once been drawn into the + current, we should have stood a good chance of being knocked to + pieces on the coral reefs, strong as our boat was; but the + danger was happily avoided, and we reached the yacht safely, + much to Tom's relief.</p> + + <p>The natives did not exhibit the slightest curiosity about us + during our visit to the island, and though they received us + with courtesy, and assisted us as far as they could on our + arrival and departure, they did not follow us about while on + shore, nor, with the exception of one or two of them, did they + take the trouble to walk across the point to see us get into + the open sea and join the yacht. In this respect they might + have given a lesson to many civilised people, so gentle, + genial, and graceful, yet dignified, were their manners.</p> + + <p>The screw having been feathered and the sails set, our + voyage was at once resumed. A few miles from where we had + landed, we saw, high and dry on the coral reef skirting the + <span class="pagenum">Page 218<a name="Page_218" + id="Page_218"></a></span>island, a large square-built + schooner, of about 500 tons, her masts gone, her hull + bleached white by the sun, and a great hole in her side. She + was on the inside of the reef, and must therefore either + have drifted there from the lagoon, or else have been lifted + bodily across by one of the big Pacific rollers, in some + terrible storm. No doubt the iron knee we had seen on the + island originally formed part of this vessel.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, November 29th</i>.—We seem to have got + into the real south-east trades, just as the chart tells us we + ought to expect to lose them; for there was a strong fair + breeze all day, which made it very pleasant on deck in the + shade of the sails. But it was exceedingly hot in the saloon, + where some of the woodwork has been pulled down, in order to + secure better ventilation for the galley and the berths of some + of the men, who, I hope, appreciate the alteration, for it is a + source of considerable discomfort to us.</p> + + <p>We had the bigger of our two little pigs for dinner to-day, + and a welcome change it was from the salt and potted meats. He + was most excellent, and fully corroborated Captain Cook's + statement as to the superiority of South Sea Island pork to any + other—a fact which is doubtless due to the pigs being fed + entirely on cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. Still it seemed a pity + to eat such a tame creature, and I mean to try and preserve the + other one's life, unless we are much longer than we expect in + reaching Tahiti. He is only about ten inches long, but looks at + least a hundred years old, and is altogether the most quaint, + old-fashioned little object you ever saw. He has taken a great + fancy to the dogs, and trots about after me with them + everywhere, on the tips of his little toes, even up and down + the steep cabin stairs. I call him Agag, because he walks so + delicately, whilst others accost him as Beau, not only on + account of his elegant manners, but as being the name of his + former home.</p> + + <p>The moon was more brilliant this evening than we have yet + seen her during our voyage, and we could enjoy sitting + <span class="pagenum">Page 219<a name="Page_219" + id="Page_219"></a></span> on deck reading, and even doing + some coarse needlework, without any other light. One + splendid meteor flashed across the sky. It was of a light + orange colour, with a fiery tail about two degrees in + extent, and described in its course an arc of about sixty + degrees, from S.S.E. to N.N.W., before it disappeared into + space, far above the horizon. If the night had been darker, + the spectacle would have been finer; but even as it was, the + moon seemed quite paled for a few minutes afterwards. We + have seen many meteors, falling-stars, and shooting-stars + since we left Valparaiso, but none so fine as the one this + evening.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, December 1st</i>.—The sun rose grandly, but + the heavy black and red clouds, looking like flames and smoke + from a furnace, gave promise of more rain. The heat was greater + to-day than any we have yet felt; and it is now nearly + mid-winter at home.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_235" + id="Illus_235"></a> <img src="images/t_235.jpg" + width="240" + height="164" + alt="Illustration: Maitea" + title="Illustration: Maitea" /><br /> + <b>Maitea</b><br /> + <a href="images/235.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>At 5 a.m. we made the island of Maitea, and expected to + reach it in about an hour and a half; but the wind fell light, + and it was a quarter to ten before we got into the gig and set + out for the shore. There are not many instructions about + landing, either in Captain Cook or Findlay, but the latter + mentions that houses are to be found on the south side of the + island. We thought, however, we could distinguish from the + yacht a little cove, close to some huts, at another part of the + shore, where the surf did not break so heavily. We accordingly + rowed straight for it, and as we approached we could see the + natives coming down from all parts to meet us, the women + dressed in the same sort of long, bright, flowing garments we + had seen at Hao Harpe, with the addition of garlands round + their necks and heads, the men wearing gay-coloured + loin-cloths, shirts of Manchester cotton stuff, flying loose in + the wind, and sailors' hats with garlands round them, or + coloured silk handkerchiefs—red and orange evidently + having the preference—tied over their heads and jauntily + knotted on one side. <span class="pagenum">Page + 220<a name="Page_220" + id="Page_220"></a></span>Several of the men waded out into + the surf to meet us, sometimes standing on a rock two feet + above the water, sometimes buried up to their necks by a + sudden wave. But the rocks were sharp, the only available + passage was narrow, and the rollers long and high; and + altogether it looked, upon a closer inspection, too + unpromising a place to attempt a landing. Much to the + disappointment of the natives, therefore, we decided to go + round and try the other side of the island. Seeing us + prepare to depart, the people on shore immediately launched + a tiny canoe, with an enormous outrigger, and a man dressed + in a pale green shirt, dark blue and yellow under garment, + and with a silk handkerchief and garland on his head, came + alongside and made signs that he would take us ashore one by + one in his frail-looking craft. But the heavy Pacific + rollers and the sharp rocks daunted us, and we declined his + offer with thanks, and rowed off to the southward. Anything + more enticing than the cove we were quitting can hardly be + imagined. A fringe of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit trees, + overhanging an undergrowth of bright glossy foliage and + flowers, a few half-hidden palm-leaf covered huts, from one + of which—I <span class="pagenum">Page + 221<a name="Page_221" + id="Page_221"></a></span>suppose the chief's—a + tattered Tahitian flag floated in the breeze, a small + schooner drawn up among the trees and carefully covered with + mats, the steep sugar-loaf point, at the entrance to the + cove, clothed to its summit with grass and vegetation: these + were the objects which attracted our attention in our + hurried survey of the scene.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_236" + id="Illus_236"></a> <img src="images/t_236.jpg" + width="240" + height="180" + alt="Illustration: Our Boatman" + title="Illustration: Our Boatman" /><br /> + <b>Our Boatman</b><br /> + <a href="images/236.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>We had to give the island a wide berth in rowing round it, + on account of the heavy rollers, which seemed to come from + every side, breaking in surf against the dark brown cliffs, and + throwing columns of white spray, from which the brilliant + sunshine was reflected in rainbow hues, high into the air. As + we proceeded matters looked worse and worse, and the motion of + the boat became so disagreeable that both Muriel and I were + very ill. At last we came to a spot where we could see some + people sitting on the shore, and several others, who had + probably come over from the other side to meet us, running + swiftly down the sides of the cliffs to the beach. The island + was of a different character from the one we had already + visited, and was evidently of volcanic origin. No coral was + anywhere to be seen, but there <span class="pagenum">Page + 222<a name="Page_222" + id="Page_222"></a></span>were big rocks jutting out at + intervals into the sea all round it, one of which seemed + large enough to afford us a sort of shelter in landing. The + natives waved and pointed towards the channel beyond this + rock, and one or two swam out to meet us; but we soon found + that the channel would not be wide enough to admit our big + boat, though it was no doubt sufficient for a light canoe, + drawing some two inches of water. We therefore reluctantly + turned away and resumed our uneasy coasting voyage, in the + course of which we passed some nearly leafless trees, full + of white patches, too large for flowers, which afterwards + turned out to be booby-birds, who here find a resting-place. + They are so numerous that it is hardly possible to walk + beneath the trees without treading on their eggs.</p> + + <p>Having completed the circuit of the island, we found + ourselves once more opposite the spot where we had first + thought of landing, and the tide being by this time a little + higher, we decided to make another attempt. Some of the + natives, seeing us approach, plunged into the water as before, + and seized the gunwale of the boat, while others, on shore, + brought down rollers to put beneath our keel. We went in on the + top of a big wave, and thus at last found ourselves—boat + and all—high and dry on the beach of Maitea.</p> + + <p>The people came down to meet us, and conducted us to the + house of the chief, who, with his pretty wife, received us + kindly, but with much gravity and dignity. Mats were placed for + me to sit upon, wreaths were offered me for my head and neck, + and cocoa-nut milk to drink. We wished for some bananas, and + they immediately cut down a tree in order to obtain a bunch. + Cocoa-nuts were at the same time thrown down from the trees, + and a collection of fruit, poultry, and meat—the latter + consisting of the immemorial hog—was laid at our feet, as + a present from the chief. The rest of the natives brought us + pearls, shells, mother-of-pearl, small canoes, fish-hooks, + young boobies, and all sorts <span class="pagenum">Page + 223<a name="Page_223" + id="Page_223"></a></span>of things, for barter; but the + chief himself refused any return for his gift. Perhaps the + greatest curiosity they offered us was about six fathoms of + fine twine, made from human hair. Before these islands were + visited by Europeans, this was the material from which + fishing-lines were made; but it is now rarely used, and is + consequently very difficult to procure. The young boobies + they brought us looked just like a white powder-puff, and + were covered with down far thicker and softer than any + swan's down I ever saw.</p> + + <p>The natives seemed quite <i>au fait</i> in the matter of + monetary transactions and exchanges. For an English sovereign + they would give you change at the rate of five dollars. Chilian + or United States' dollars they accepted readily, but Brazilian + currency they would not look at. They were pleased with knives, + beads, looking-glasses, and picture papers I had brought on + shore, and we did a brisk trade. We experienced great + difficulty in explaining to them that we wanted some fresh + eggs, Muriel's especial fancy, and a luxury which we have been + without for some time. At last, by pointing to the fowls and + picking up some small egg-shaped stones, we managed to procure + a few, though, from the time it took to collect them, I should + think the island must have been scoured in the search for + them.</p> + + <p>Most of the natives seemed puzzled to comprehend why we had + visited the island at all. 'No sell brandy?'—'No.' 'No + stealy men?'—'No.' 'No do what then?' Their knowledge of + English was too limited to enable us to make them understand + that we were only making a voyage of circumnavigation in a + yacht.</p> + + <p>It was now time to bid farewell to our amiable hosts and + their beautiful island. As we reached the landing-place, a + small schooner, which we had previously noticed in the + distance, came close to the shore, and a canoe put off from the + island to meet it. We found that the vessel was bringing back + from Tahiti and other places some of the + <span class="pagenum">Page 224<a name="Page_224" + id="Page_224"></a></span>inhabitants of the island, who had + been away on a visit or in search of work. The meeting of + the reunited friends and relatives was in some cases quite + touching. Two women, in particular, sat and embraced each + other for nearly a quarter of an hour, without moving, but + with tears running down their faces.</p> + + <p>All our gifts and purchases having been placed in the boat, + and one or two of us having embarked, she was shoved out over + the wooden rollers into the narrow channel, where she lay-to + while the rest of the party were brought alongside, one by one, + in a frail canoe—an operation which occupied some time, + during which we had leisure once more to admire the little bay + I have already attempted to describe. We asked the captain of + the schooner, who spoke French, to give us a tow off to the + yacht, which he willingly consented to do, chatting cheerfully + all the time, but evidently fearful of approaching too close to + the yacht, and positively refusing our invitation to him to + come on board. There can be little doubt that he mistrusted our + intentions, and feared we might attempt to kidnap him and his + crew; for the whites have, in too many cases, behaved in a most + villanous manner to the inhabitants of these islands, who are, + as a rule—to which there are of course exceptions—a + kind and gentle people. I think if the many instances of the + murder of ships' and boats' crews could be thoroughly sifted to + the bottom, it would be found that most of them were acts of + reprisal and revenge for brutal atrocities committed on the + defenceless natives, who have been kidnapped, plundered, and + murdered by unscrupulous traders and adventurers. + Unfortunately, the good suffer for the bad, and such lives as + those of Captain Goodenough and Bishop Patteson are sacrificed + through the unpardonable misconduct of others—perhaps + their own countrymen. It is still quite a chance how you may be + received in some of the islands; for if the visit of the last + ship was the occasion of the murder, plunder, and + <span class="pagenum">Page 225<a name="Page_225" + id="Page_225"></a></span> ill-treatment of the inhabitants, + it is not to be wondered at that the next comers should be + received with distrust, if not with treachery and + violence.</p> + + <p>We reached the yacht at four o'clock, rather exhausted by so + many hours' exposure to the broiling sun, having had nothing to + eat since breakfast, at 7 a.m., except cocoa-nuts and bananas. + The ship was put about, the sails filled, and, continuing + steadily on our course throughout the evening, we made the + smaller of the two peninsulas that form the island of Tahiti at + 10.30 p.m.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, December 2nd</i>. We were dodging on and off + all night, and at daybreak the weather was thick and rainy. At + 4.30 a.m. we made the land again, and crept slowly along it, + past Point Venus and the lighthouse in Matavai Bay (Captain + Cook's first anchorage), until we were off the harbour of + Papeete<a name="FNanchor_8_8" + id="FNanchor_8_8">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_8_8" + class="fnanchor">[8]</a> The rain was now descending in + torrents, and we lay-to outside the reef for a short time, + until a French pilot came on board and took us in through + the narrow entrance. It was curious, while we were tumbling + about in the rough sea outside, to see the natives placidly + fishing in the tiniest of canoes on the lagoon inside the + reef, the waves beating all the time furiously on the outer + surface of the coral breakwater, as if anxious to seize and + engulf them.</p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_8_8" + id="Footnote_8_8"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> + 'Papiete' or 'Papeete,' <i>a bag of water</i>.</p> + </div> + + <p>At nine o'clock we were safely anchored in the chief port of + the island of Tahiti.</p> + + <p>Perhaps I cannot better bring this account of our long + voyage from Valparaiso to a conclusion than by a quotation from + a charming book, given to me at Rio, which I have lately been + reading Baron de Hubner's 'Promenade autour du + Monde:'—'Les jours se suivent et se ressemblent. Sauf le + court épisode du mauvais temps, ces trois semaines me + font l'effet d'un charmant rêve, d'un conte de + fée, d'une promenade imaginaire à travers une + salle immense, tout or et lapis-lazuli. Pas un moment d'ennui + ou d'impatience. <span class="pagenum">Page + 226<a name="Page_226" + id="Page_226"></a></span>Si vous voulez abréger les + longueurs d'une grande traversée, distribuez bien + votre temps, et observez le règlement que vous vous + êtes imposé. C'est un moyen sûr de se + faire promptement à la vie claustrale et même + d'en jouir.'</p> + + <p>We have been five weeks at sea, and have enjoyed them quite + as much as the Baron did his three. We saw but two ships + between Valparaiso and Tatakotoroa: he saw only one between San + Francisco and Yokohama. It is indeed a vast and lonely ocean + that we have traversed.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_241" + id="Illus_241"></a> <img src="images/t_241.jpg" + width="240" + height="118" + alt="Illustration: Quarantine Island, Papeete" + title="Illustration: Quarantine Island, Papeete" /><br /> + <b>Quarantine Island, Papeete</b><br /> + <a href="images/241.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 227<a name="Page_227" + id="Page_227"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" + id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">AT TAHITI.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>The cava feast, the yam, the cocoa's + root</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Which bears at once the + cup, and milk, and fruit</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>The + bread-tree which, without the ploughshare, + yields</i><br /></span> <span><i>The unreap'd harvest + of unfurrowed fields</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + + <div class="stanza"> + <span class="i4">————————————————<br /> + </span> + </div> + + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>These, with the luxuries of seas and + woods</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>The airy joys of + social solitudes</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Tamed each + rude wanderer</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_242" + id="Illus_242"></a> <img src="images/t_242.jpg" + width="240" + height="238" + alt="Illustration: Under the Trees, Papeete" + title="Illustration: Under the Trees, Papeete" /><br /> + <b>Under the Trees, Papeete</b><br /> + <a href="images/242.gif">View full size + illustration.</a><br /> + + </div> + + <p><i>Saturday, December 2nd</i>.—The anchor was dropped + in the harbour of Papeete at nine o'clock, and a couple of + hours later, by which time the weather had cleared, we went + ashore, and at once found ourselves in the midst of a + fairy-like scene, to describe which is almost impossible, so + bewildering is it in the brightness and variety of its + colouring. The magnolias and yellow and scarlet hibiscus, + overshadowing the water, the velvety turf, on to which one + steps from the boat, the white road running between rows of + wooden houses, whose little gardens are a mass of flowers, + <span class="pagenum">Page 228<a name="Page_228" + id="Page_228"></a></span>the men and women clad in the + gayest robes and decked with flowers, the piles of + unfamiliar fruit lying on the grass, waiting to be + transported to the coasting vessels in the harbour, the + wide-spreading background of hills clad in verdure to their + summits—these are but a few of the objects which greet + the new-comer in his first contact with the shore.</p> + + <p>We strolled about, and left our letters of introduction; but + the people to whom they were addressed were at breakfast, and + we were deliberating how best to dispose of our time, when a + gentleman accosted us, and, seeing how new it all was to us + strangers, offered to show us round the town.</p> + + <p>The streets of Papeete, running back at right angles with + the beach, seem to have wonderfully grand names, such as the + Rue de Rivoli, Rue de Paris, &c. Every street is shaded by + an avenue of high trees, whose branches meet and interlace + overhead, forming a sort of leafy tunnel, through which the + sea-breeze passes refreshingly. There is also what is called + the Chinamen's quarter, through which we walked, and which + consists of a collection of regular Chinese-built bamboo + houses, whose occupants all wore their national costume, + pigtail included. The French commandant lives in a charming + residence, surrounded by gardens, just opposite the palace of + Queen Pomare, who is at present at the island of Bola-Bola, + taking care of her little grandchild, aged five, the queen of + the island. She went down in a French man-of-war, the 'Limier,' + ten days ago, and has been obliged to remain, owing to some + disturbances amongst the natives. I am rather disappointed that + she is absent, as I should like to see a person of whom I have + heard so much.</p> + + <p>Having completed our tour, we next went to call on the + British Consul, who received us kindly, and entertained us with + an interesting account of the island and its inhabitants, its + pearl-fisheries and trade, the French + <span class="pagenum">Page 229<a name="Page_229" + id="Page_229"></a></span>policy, the missionaries, &c., + on all of which subjects he is well informed. He has just + completed an exhaustive consular report on the condition of + the island, which will, no doubt, appear in due course in + the form of a blue-book.</p> + + <p>On our return to Messrs. Brander's office, where we had left + one of our letters of introduction, we found the manager, with + whom we had a long chat before returning on board.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_244" + id="Illus_244"></a> <img src="images/t_244.jpg" + width="240" + height="187" + alt="Illustration: Chætodon Tricolor" + title="Illustration: Chætodon Tricolor" /><br /> + <b>Chætodon Tricolor</b><br /> + <a href="images/244.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>At 5 p.m. we went for a row in the 'Glance' and the 'Flash' + to the coral reef, now illumined by the rays of the setting + sun. Who can describe these wonderful gardens of the deep, on + which we now gazed through ten and twenty fathoms of crystal + water? Who can enumerate or describe the strange creatures + moving about and darting hither and thither, amid the masses of + coral forming their submarine home? There were shells of rare + shape, brighter than if they had been polished by the hand of + the most skilful artist; crabs of all sizes, scuttling and + sidling along; sea-anemones, spreading their delicate feelers + in search of prey; and many other kinds of zoophytes, crawling + slowly over the reef; and scarlet, blue, yellow, gold, violet, + spotted, <span class="pagenum">Page 230<a name="Page_230" + id="Page_230"></a></span>striped, and winged fish, short, + long, pointed, and blunt, of the most varied shapes, were + darting about like birds among the coral trees.</p> + + <p>At last, after frequent stoppages, to allow time for + admiration, we reached the outer reef, hauled the boat up and + made her fast, and, in bathing shoes, started on a paddling + expedition. Such a paddle it was, too, over the coral, the surf + breaking far above our heads, and the underflow, though only a + few inches deep, nearly carrying me and the children off our + legs! There were one or two native fishermen walking along the + reef, whipping the water; but they appeared to have caught only + a few small rock-fish, pretty enough to look at, but not + apparently good to eat.</p> + + <p>The shades of night compelled us to return to the yacht, + laden with corals of many different species. After dinner the + bay was illuminated by the torches of the native fishermen, in + canoes, on the reef. Tom and I went to look at them, but did + not see them catch anything. Each canoe contained at least + three people, one of whom propelled the boat, another stood up + waving about a torch dipped in some resinous substance, which + threw a strong light on the water, while the third stood in the + bows, armed with a spear, made of a bundle of wires, tied to a + long pole, not at all unlike a gigantic egg-whip, with all its + loops cut into points. This is aimed with great dexterity at + the fish, who are either transfixed or jammed between the + prongs. The fine figures of the natives, lighted up by the + flickering torches, and standing out in bold relief against the + dark blue starlit sky, would have served as models for the + sculptors of ancient Greece.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, December 3rd</i>.—At a quarter to five this + morning some of us landed to see the market, this being the + great day when the natives come in from the country and + surrounding villages, by sea and by land, in boats, or on + horseback, to sell their produce, and buy necessaries for the + coming week. We walked through the shady streets + <span class="pagenum">Page 231<a name="Page_231" + id="Page_231"></a></span> to the two covered market + buildings, partitioned across with great bunches of oranges, + plantains, and many-coloured vegetables, hung on strings. + The mats, beds, and pillows still lying about suggested the + idea that the salesmen and women had passed the night + amongst their wares. The gaily attired, good-looking, + flower-decorated crowd, of some seven or eight hundred + people, all chatting and laughing, and some staring at + us—but not rudely—looked much more like a chorus + of opera-singers, dressed for their parts in some grand + spectacle, than ordinary market-going peasants. Whichever + way one turned, the prospect was an animated and attractive + one. Here, beneath the shade of large, smooth, light-green + banana leaves, was a group of earnest bargainers for + mysterious-looking fish, luscious fruit, and vegetables; + there, sheltered by a drooping mango, whose rich clusters of + purple and orange fruit hung in tempting proximity to lips + and hands, another little crowd was similarly engaged. + Orange-trees were evidently favourite <i>rendezvous</i>; and + a row of flower-sellers had established themselves in front + of a hedge of scarlet hibiscus and double Cape jasmine. + Every vendor carried his stock-in-trade, however small the + articles composing it might be, on a bamboo pole, across his + shoulder, occasionally with rather ludicrous effect, as, for + instance, when the thick but light pole supported only a + tiny fish six inches long at one end, and two mangoes at the + other. Everybody seemed to have brought to market just what + he or she happened to have on hand, however small the + quantity. The women would have one, two, or three new-laid + eggs in a leaf basket, one crab or lobster, three or four + prawns, or one little trout. Under these circumstances, + marketing for so large a party as ours was a somewhat + lengthy operation, and I was much amused in watching our + <i>proveedor</i>, as he went about collecting things by ones + and twos, until he had piled a little cart quite full, and + had had it pushed off to the shady quay.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_247" + id="Illus_247"></a> <img src="images/t_247.jpg" + width="212" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Chætodon Plagmance" + title="Illustration: Chætodon Plagmance" /><br /> + <b>Chætodon Plagmance</b><br /> + <a href="images/247.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 232<a name="Page_232" + id="Page_232"></a></span></p> + + <p>We strolled about until six o'clock, at which hour the + purchasers began to disperse, and were just preparing to depart + likewise, when an old man, carrying half-a-dozen little fish, + and followed by a small boy laden with vegetables and fruit, + introduced himself to us as the brother-in-law of Queen Pomare + IV. and chief of Papeete, and, after a short talk, invited us + to visit him at his house. We consented, and, following him, + presently reached a break in the hedge and ditch that ran along + the side of the road, beyond which was a track, bordered by + pineapples and dracænas, leading to a superior sort of + house, built in the native style, and surrounded, as usual, by + bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, banana, mango, and guava trees. We were + conducted into the one large room, which contained two + four-post bedsteads and four mattresses, laid on the floor, two + or three trunks, and a table in the corner, on which were + writing materials and a few books. The chief himself spoke a + very little English, his son an equally small amount of French; + so the conversation languished, and after a decent interval we + rose to depart. Our host asked if he might 'come and see my + ship,' and procured pen, ink, and paper—not of the best + quality—for me to write an order for him do so, 'in case + lady not at home.' He also presented me with some pictures of + soldiers, drawn by his son—a boy about eleven years old, + of whom he seemed very proud, and expressed his regret that we + could not prolong our stay, at the same time placing at our + disposal the whole house and garden, including a fat sow and + eleven little pigs.</p> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 233<a name="Page_233" + id="Page_233"></a></span>Several other visitors had arrived + by this time, one of whom was on horseback, and, as I was + rather tired, he was asked if he would kindly allow me to + ride down to the landing place. He replied that he would + lend the horse to a gentleman, but not to me, as the saddle + was not suitable. I explained that this made no difference + to me, and mounted, though I did not attempt to follow the + fashion of the native ladies here, who ride like men. Our + new friend was quite delighted at this, and volunteered + himself to show us something of the neighbourhood. + Accordingly, leading my—or rather his—horse, and + guiding him carefully over all the rough places, he took us + through groves and gardens to the grounds belonging to the + royal family, in which were plantations of various kinds of + trees, and a thick undergrowth of guava. After an enjoyable + little expedition we returned to the yacht at about + half-past seven, accompanied by the small boy who had been + carrying our special purchases from the market all this + time, and by a little tail of followers.</p> + + <p>At half-past eight we breakfasted, so as to be ready for the + service at the native church at ten o'clock; but several + visitors arrived in the interval, and we had rather a bustle to + get off in time, after all. We landed close to the church, + under the shade of an hibiscus, whose yellow and orange flowers + dropped off into the sea and floated away amongst the coral + rocks, peeping out of the water here and there. The building + appeared to be full to overflowing. The windows and doors were + all wide open, and many members of the congregation were seated + on the steps, on the lawn, and on the grassy slope beyond, + listening to a discourse in the native language. Most of the + people wore the native costume, which, especially when made of + black stuff and surmounted by a little sailor's hat, decorated + with a bandana handkerchief or a wreath of flowers, was very + becoming. Sailors' hats are universally worn, and are generally + made by the natives themselves from plantain + <span class="pagenum">Page 234<a name="Page_234" + id="Page_234"></a></span>or palm leaves, or from the inside + fibre of the arrowroot. Some rather elderly men and women in + the front rows were taking notes of the sermon. I found + afterwards that they belonged to the Bible class, and that + their great pride was to meet after the service and repeat + by heart nearly all they had heard. This seems to show at + least a desire to profit by the minister's efforts.</p> + + <p>After the usual service there were two christenings. The + babies were held at the font by the men, who looked extremely + sheepish. One baby was grandly attired in a book-muslin dress, + with flounces, a tail at least six feet long dragging on the + ground, and a lace cap with cherry-coloured bows; the other was + nearly as smart, in a white-worked long frock and cap, trimmed + with blue bows. The christenings over, there was a hymn, + somewhat monotonous as to time and tune, but sung with much + fervour, followed by the administration of the sacrament, in + which cocoa-nut milk took the place of wine, and bread-fruit + that of bread. The proper elements were originally used, but + experience proved that, although the bread went round pretty + well, the cup was almost invariably emptied by the first two or + three communicants, sometimes with unfortunate results.</p> + + <p>After service we drove through the shady avenues of the town + into the open country, past trim little villas and sugar-cane + plantations, until we turned off the main road, and entered an + avenue of mangoes, whence a rough road, cut through a guava + thicket, leads to the main gate of + Faataua<a name="FNanchor_9_9" + id="FNanchor_9_9"></a> <a href="#Footnote_9_9" + class="fnanchor">[9]</a>—a regular square Indian + bungalow, with thatched roofs, verandahs covered with + creepers, windows opening to the ground, and steps leading + to the gardens on every side, ample accommodation for + stables, kitchens, servants, being provided in numerous + outbuildings.</p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_9_9" + id="Footnote_9_9"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> + 'Fuatawah' or 'Faataua,' <i>to make friends</i>.</p> + </div> + + <p>Soon after breakfast, Mrs. Brander dressed me in one of her + own native costumes, and we drove to the outskirts of a dense + forest, through which a footpath leads to the + <span class="pagenum">Page 235<a name="Page_235" + id="Page_235"></a></span>waterfall and fort of Faataua. Here + we found horses waiting for us, on which we rode, + accompanied by the gentlemen on foot, through a thick growth + of palms, orange-trees, guavas, and other tropical trees, + some of which were overhung and almost choked by luxuriant + creepers. Specially noticeable among the latter was a + gorgeous purple passion-flower, with orange-coloured fruit + as big as pumpkins, that covered everything with its + vigorous growth. The path was always narrow and sometimes + steep, and we had frequently almost to creep under the + overhanging boughs, or to turn aside to avoid a more than + usually dense mass of creepers. We crossed several small + rivers, and at last reached a spot that commanded a view of + the waterfall, on <span class="pagenum">Page + 236<a name="Page_236" + id="Page_236"></a></span>the other side of a deep ravine. + Just below the fort that crowns the height, a river issues + from a narrow cleft in the rock, and falls at a single bound + from the edge of an almost perpendicular cliff, 600 feet + high, into the valley beneath. First one sees the rush of + blue water, gradually changing in its descent to a cloud of + white spray, which in its turn is lost in a rainbow of mist. + Imagine that from beneath the shade of feathery palms and + broad-leaved bananas through a network of ferns and creepers + you are looking upon the Staubbach, in Switzerland, + magnified in height, and with a background of verdure-clad + mountains, and you will have some idea of the fall of + Faataua as we beheld it.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_250" + id="Illus_250"></a> <img src="images/t_250.jpg" + width="159" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Waterfall at Faataua" + title="Illustration: Waterfall at Faataua" /><br /> + <b>Waterfall at Faataua</b><br /> + <a href="images/250.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>After resting a little while and taking some sketches, we + climbed up to the fort itself, a place of considerable + interest, where the natives held out to the very last against + the French. On the bank opposite the fort, the last islander + killed during the struggle for independence was shot while + trying to escape. Situated in the centre of a group of + mountains, with valleys branching off in all directions, the + fort could hold communication with every part of the coast, and + there can be little doubt that it would have held out much + longer than it did, but for the treachery of one of the + garrison, who led the invaders, under cover of the night, and + by devious paths, to the top of a hill commanding the position. + Now the ramparts and earthworks are overrun and almost hidden + by roses. Originally planted, I suppose, by the new-comers, + they have spread rapidly in all directions, till the hill-sides + and summits are quite a-blush with the fragrant bloom.</p> + + <p>Having enjoyed some strawberries and some icy cold water + from a spring, and heard a long account of the war from the + <i>gardiens</i>, we found it was time to commence our return + journey, as it was now getting late. We descended much more + quickly than we had come up, but daylight had faded into the + brief tropical twilight, and that again into the shades of + night, ere we reached the carriage. <span class="pagenum">Page + 237<a name="Page_237" + id="Page_237"></a></span></p> + + <p>Dinner and evening service brought the day to a conclusion, + and I retired, not unwillingly, to bed, to dream of the charms + of Tahiti.</p> + + <p>Sometimes I think that all I have seen must be only a long + vision, and that too soon I shall awaken to the cold reality; + the flowers, the fruit, the colours worn by every one, the + whole scene and its surroundings, seem almost too fairylike to + have an actual existence. I am in despair when I attempt to + describe all these things. I feel that I cannot do anything + like justice to their merits, and yet I fear all the time that + what I say may be looked upon as an exaggeration.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span>Long dreamy lawns, and birds on happy + wings,<br /></span> <span class="i2">Keeping their + homes in never-rifled bowers;<br /></span> <span>Cool + fountains filling with their murmurings<br /></span> + <span class="i2">The sunny silence 'twixt the chiming + hours.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p>At daybreak next morning, when I went on deck, it was a dead + calm. The sea-breeze had not yet come in, and there was not a + ripple on the surface of the harbour. Outside, two little white + trading schooners lay becalmed; inside, the harbour-tug was + getting up steam. On shore, a few gaily dressed natives were + hurrying home with their early market produce, and others were + stretched lazily on the grass at the water's edge or on the + benches under the trees. Our stores for the day, a + picturesque-looking heap of fish, fruit, vegetables, and + flowers, were on the steps, waiting to be brought off, and + guarded in the meantime by natives in costumes of pink, blue, + orange, and a delicate pale green they specially affect. The + light mists rolled gradually away from the mountain tops, and + there was every prospect of a fine day for a projected + excursion.</p> + + <p>I went ashore to fetch some of the fresh gathered fruit, and + soon we had a feast of luscious pineapples, juicy mangoes, + bananas, and oranges, with the dew still upon them. The mango + is certainly the king of fruit. Its flavour is a combination of + apricot and pineapple, with the slightest + <span class="pagenum">Page 238<a name="Page_238" + id="Page_238"></a></span>possible suspicion of turpentine + thrown in, to give a piquancy to the whole. I dare say it + sounds a strange mixture, but I can only say that the result + is delicious. To enjoy mangoes thoroughly you ought not to + eat them in company, but leaning over the side of the ship, + in the early morning, with your sleeves tucked up to your + elbows, using no knife and fork, but tearing off the skin + with your teeth, and sucking the abundant juice.</p> + + <p>We breakfasted at half-past six, and, at a little before + eight, went ashore, where we were met by a sort of + <i>char-à-bancs</i>, or American wagon, with three + seats, one behind the other, all facing the horses, and roomy + and comfortable enough for two persons. Our Transatlantic + cousins certainly understand thoroughly, and do their best to + improve everything connected with, the locomotion they love so + well. A Chinese coachman and a thin but active pair of little + horses completed the turn-out. Mabelle sat beside the coachman, + and we four packed into, the other two seats, with all our + belongings.</p> + + <p>The sun was certainly <i>very</i> powerful when we emerged + from the shady groves of Papeete, but there was a nice breeze, + and sometimes we got under the shade of cocoa-nut trees. We + reached Punauia at about half-past nine, and changed horses + there. While waiting, hot and thirsty, under the shelter of + some trees, we asked for a cocoa-nut, whereupon a man standing + by immediately tied a withy of banana leaves round his feet and + proceeded to climb, or rather hop, up the nearest tree, raising + himself with his two hands and his feet alternately, with an + exactly similar action to that of our old friend the monkey on + the stick. People who have tasted the cocoa-nut only in England + can have no idea what a delicious fruit it really is when + nearly ripe and freshly plucked. The natives remove the outer + husk, just leaving a little piece to serve as a foot for the + pale brown cup to rest on. They then smooth off the top, and + you have an elegant vase, something like a mounted ostrich + <span class="pagenum">Page 239<a name="Page_239" + id="Page_239"></a></span>egg in appearance, lined with the + snowiest ivory, and containing about three pints of cool + sweet water. Why it is called milk I cannot understand, for + it is as clear as crystal, and is always cool and + refreshing, though the nut in which it is contained has + generally been exposed to the fiercest sun. In many of the + coral islands, where the water is brackish, the natives + drink scarcely anything but cocoa-nut milk; and even here, + if you are thirsty and ask for a glass of water, you are + almost always presented with a cocoa-nut instead.</p> + + <p>From Punauia onwards the scenery increased in beauty, and + the foliage was, if possible, more luxuriant than ever. The + road ran through extensive coffee, sugar-cane, Indian corn, + orange, cocoa-nut, and cotton plantations, and vanilla, + carefully trained on bamboos, growing in the thick shade. Near + Atimaono we passed the house of a great cotton planter, and, + shortly afterwards, the curious huts, raised on platforms, + built by some islanders he has imported from the Kingsmill + group to work his plantations. They are a wild, savage-looking + set, very inferior to the Tahitians in appearance. The + cotton-mills, which formerly belonged to a company, are now all + falling to ruin; and in many other parts of the island we + passed cotton plantations uncleaned and neglected, and fast + running to seed and waste. So long as the American war lasted, + a slight profit could be made upon Tahitian cotton, but now it + is hopeless to attempt to cultivate it with any prospect of + adequate return.</p> + + <p>The sun was now at its height, and we longed to stop and + bathe in one of the many fresh-water streams we crossed, and + afterwards to eat our lunch by the wayside; but our Chinese + coachman always pointed onwards, and said, 'Eatee much + presently; horses eatee too.' At last we arrived at a little + house, shaded by cocoa-nut trees, and built in an enclosure + near the sea-shore, with 'Restaurant' written up over the door. + We drove in, and were met by the proprietor, with what must + have been rather an embarrassing multiplicity of women and + children about his heels. <span class="pagenum">Page + 240<a name="Page_240" + id="Page_240"></a></span>The cloth was not laid, but the + rooms looked clean, and there was a heap of tempting-looking + fish and fruit in a corner. We assured him we were starving, + and begged for luncheon as soon as possible; and, in the + meantime, went for a dip in the sea. But the water was + shallow, and the sun made the temperature at least 90°, + so that our bath was not very refreshing. On our return we + found the table most enticingly laid out, with little + scarlet crayfish, embedded in cool green lettuce leaves, + fruit of various kinds, good wine and fair bread, all + arranged on a clean though coarse tablecloth. There was also + a savoury omelette, so good that Tom asked for a second; + when, to our astonishment, there appeared a plump roast + fowl, with most artistic gravy and fried potatoes. Then came + a <i>biftek aux champignons</i>, and some excellent coffee + to wind up with. On making the host our compliments, he + said, 'Je fais la cuisine moi-même, Madame.' In the + course of our repast we again tasted the bread-fruit, but + did not much appreciate it, though it was this time cooked + in the native fashion—roasted underground by means of + hot stones.</p> + + <p>Our coachman was becoming impatient, so we bade farewell to + our host, and resumed our journey. We crossed innumerable + streams on our way, generally full not only of water, but also + of bathers; for the Tahitians are very fond of water, and + always bathe once or twice a day in the fresh streams, even + after having been in the sea.</p> + + <p>In many places along the road people were making hay from + short grass, and in others they were weighing it preparatory to + sending it into town. But they say the grass grown here is not + at all nourishing for horses, and some people import it from + Valparaiso.</p> + + <p>The road round the island is called the Broom Road. Convicts + were employed in its original formation, and now it is the + punishment for any one getting drunk in any part of the island + to be set to work to sweep, repair, and keep in order a piece + of the road in the neighbourhood of his + <span class="pagenum">Page 241<a name="Page_241" + id="Page_241"></a></span>dwelling. It is the one good road + of Tahiti, encircling the larger of the two peninsulas close + to the sea-shore, and surmounting the low mountain range in + the centre of the isthmus.</p> + + <p>Before long we found ourselves close to Taravao, the narrow + strip of land connecting the two peninsulas into which Tahiti + is divided, and commenced to ascend the hills that form the + backbone of the island. We climbed up and up, reaching the + summit at last, to behold a magnificent prospect on all sides. + Then a short sharp descent, a long drive over grass roads + through a rich forest, and again a brief ascent, brought us to + our sleeping-quarters for the night, the Hotel de l'Isthme, + situated in a valley in the midst of a dense grove of + cocoa-nuts and bananas, kept by two retired French sailors, who + came out to meet us, and conducted us up a flight of steps on + the side of a mud bank to the four rooms forming the hotel. + These were two sleeping apartments, a <i>salon</i>, and a + <i>salle à manger</i>, the walls of which consisted of + flat pieces of wood, their own width apart, something like + Venetian shutters, with unglazed windows and doors opening into + the garden.</p> + + <p>We walked about four hundred yards along a grassy road to + the sea, where Mabelle and I paddled about in shallow water and + amused ourselves by picking up coral, shells, and + <i>bêche-de-mer</i>, and watching the blue and yellow + fish darting in and out among the rocks, until at last we found + a place in the coral which made a capital deep-water bath. + Dressing again was not such a pleasant affair, owing to the + mosquitoes biting us in the most provoking manner. Afterwards + we strolled along the shore, which was covered with cocoa-nuts + and driftwood, washed thither, I suppose, from some of the + adjacent islands, and on our way back to the hotel we gathered + a handful of choice exotics and graceful ferns, with which to + decorate the table.</p> + + <p>The dinner itself really deserves a detailed description, if + only to show that one may make the tour of Tahiti + <span class="pagenum">Page 242<a name="Page_242" + id="Page_242"></a></span>without necessarily having to rough + it in the matter of food. We had crayfish and salad as a + preliminary, and next, an excellent soup followed by + delicious little oysters, that cling to the boughs and roots + of the guava and mangrove trees overhanging the sea. Then + came a large fish, name unknown, the inevitable + <i>bouilli</i> and cabbage, <i>côtelettes aux pommes, + biftek aux champignons</i>, succeeded by crabs and other + shellfish, including <i>wurrali</i>, a delicate-flavoured + kind of lobster, an <i>omelette aux abricots</i>, and + dessert of tropical fruits. We were also supplied with good + wine, both red and white, and bottled beer.</p> + + <p>I ought, in truth, to add that the cockroaches were rather + lively and plentiful, but they did not form a serious drawback + to our enjoyment. After dinner, however, when I went to see + Mabelle to bed, hundreds of these creatures, about three inches + long, and broad in proportion, scuttled away as I lighted the + candle; and while we were sitting outside we could see troops + of them marching up and down in rows between the crevices of + the walls. Then there were the mosquitoes, who hummed and + buzzed about us, and with whom, alas! we were doomed to make a + closer acquaintance. Our bed was fitted with the very thickest + calico mosquito curtains, impervious to the air, but not to the + venomous little insects, who found their way in through every + tiny opening in spite of all our efforts to exclude them.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, December 5th</i>.—The heat in the night + was suffocating, and soon after twelve o'clock we both woke up, + feeling half-stifled. There was a dim light shining into the + room, and Tom said, 'Thank goodness, it's getting daylight;' + but on striking my repeater we found to our regret that this + was a mistake. In the moonlight I could see columns of nasty + brown cockroaches ascending the bedposts, crawling along the + top of the curtains, dropping with a thud on to the bed, and + then descending over the side to the ground. At last I could + stand it no longer, and <span class="pagenum">Page + 243<a name="Page_243" + id="Page_243"></a></span>opening the curtains cautiously, I + seized my slippers, knocked half-a-dozen brown beasts out of + each, wrapped myself in a poncho—previously well + shaken—gathered my garments around me, surmounted a + barricade I had constructed overnight to keep the pigs and + chickens out of our doorless room, and fled to the garden. + All was still, the only sign of life being a light in a + neighbouring hut, and I sat out in the open air in + comparative comfort, until driven indoors again by torrents + of rain, at about half-past two o'clock.</p> + + <p>I plunged into bed again, taking several mosquitoes with me, + which hummed and buzzed and devoured us to their hearts' + content till dawn. Then I got up and walked down to the beach + to bathe, and returned to breakfast at six o'clock, refreshed + but still disfigured.</p> + + <p>It is now the depth of winter and the middle of the rainy + season in Tahiti; but, luckily for us, it is nearly always fine + in the daytime. At night, however, there is often a perfect + deluge, which floods the houses and gardens, turns the streams + into torrents, but washes and refreshes the vegetation, and + leaves the landscape brighter and greener than before.</p> + + <p>At half-past seven the horses were put to, and we were just + ready for a start, when down came the rain again, more heavily + than before. It was some little time before it ceased enough to + allow us to start, driving along grassy roads and through + forests, but progressing rather slowly, owing to the soaked + condition of the ground. If you can imagine the Kew hot-houses + magnified and multiplied to an indefinite extent, and laid out + as a gentleman's park, traversed by numerous grassy roads + fringed with cocoa-nut palms, and commanding occasional + glimpses of sea, and beach, and coral reefs, you will have some + faint idea of the scene through which our road lay.</p> + + <p>Many rivers we crossed, and many we stuck in, the gentlemen + having more than once to take off their shoes + <span class="pagenum">Page 244<a name="Page_244" + id="Page_244"></a></span>and stockings, tuck up their + trousers, jump into the water, and literally put their + shoulders to the wheel. Sometimes we drove out into the + shallow sea, till it seemed doubtful when and where we + should make the land again. Sometimes we climbed up a solid + road, blasted out of the face of the black cliffs, or crept + along the shore of the tranquil lagoon, frightening the + land-crabs into their holes as they felt the shake of the + approaching carriage. Palms and passiflora abounded, the + latter being specially magnificent. It seems wonderful how + their thin steins can support, at a height of thirty or + forty feet from the ground, the masses of huge + orange-coloured fruit which depend in strings from their + summits.</p> + + <p>At the third river, not far from where it fell into the sea, + we thought it was time to lunch; so we stopped the carriage, + gave the horses their provender, and sat down to enjoy + ourselves after our long drive. It was early in the afternoon + before we started again, and soon after this we were met by + fresh horses, sent out from Papenoo<a name="FNanchor_10_10" + id="FNanchor_10_10">;</a> <a href="#Footnote_10_10" + class="fnanchor">[10]</a> so it was not long before we found + ourselves near Point Venus, where we once more came upon a + good piece of road, down which we rattled to the plains + outside Papeete.</p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_10_10" + id="Footnote_10_10"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> + From 'pape,' <i>water</i>, and 'noo,' + <i>abundance</i>.</p> + </div> + + <p>We reached the quay at about seven o'clock, and, our arrival + having been observed, several friends came to see us and to + inquire how we had fared. Before we started on our excursion, + instructions had been given that the 'Sunbeam' should be + painted <i>white</i>, for the sake of coolness, and we were all + very curious to see how she would look in her new dress; but + unfortunately the wet weather has delayed the work, and there + is still a good deal to do.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, December 6th</i>.—It was raining fast at + half-past four this morning, which was rather provoking, as I + wanted to take some photographs from the yacht's deck before + the sea-breeze sprang up. But the weather cleared while I was + choosing my position and fixing my camera, + <span class="pagenum">Page 245<a name="Page_245" + id="Page_245"></a></span>and I was enabled to take what I + hope may prove to be some successful photographs.</p> + + <p>Messrs. Brander's mail-ship, a sailing vessel of about 600 + tons, was to leave for San Francisco at eight o'clock, and at + seven Tom started in the 'Flash' to take our letters on board. + The passage to San Francisco occupies twenty-five days on an + average, and is performed with great regularity once a month + each way. The vessels employed on this line, three in number, + are well built, and have good accommodation for passengers, and + they generally carry a full cargo. In the present instance it + consists of fungus and tripang (<i>bêche-de-mer</i>) for + China, oranges for San Francisco, a good many packages of + sundries, and a large consignment of pearls, entrusted to the + captain at the last moment.</p> + + <p>So brisk is the trade carried on between Tahiti and the + United States, that the cost of this vessel was more than + covered by the freights the first year after she was built. In + addition to these ships, there are those which run backwards + and forwards to Valparaiso, and the little island trading + schooners; so that the Tahitians can boast of quite a + respectable fleet of vessels, not imposing perhaps in point of + tonnage, but as smart and serviceable-looking as could be + desired. The trading schooners are really beautiful little + craft, and I am sure that, if well kept and properly manned, + they would show to no discredit among our smart yachts at + Cowes. Not a day passes without one or more entering or leaving + the harbour, returning from or bound to the lonely isles with + which the south-west portion of the Pacific is studded. They + are provided with a patent log, but their captains, who are + intelligent men, do not care much about a chronometer, as the + distances to be run are comparatively short and are easily + judged.</p> + + <p>Mr. Godeffroy gave us rather an amusing account of the + manner in which their negotiations with the natives are + conducted. The more civilised islanders have got beyond barter, + and prefer hard cash in American dollars for their + <span class="pagenum">Page 246<a name="Page_246" + id="Page_246"></a></span>pearls, shells, cocoa-nuts, + sandal-wood, &c. When they have received the money, they + remain on deck for some time discussing their bargains among + themselves. Then they peep down through the open skylights + into the cabin below, where the most attractive prints and + the gaudiest articles of apparel are temptingly displayed, + alongside a few bottles of rum and brandy and a supply of + tobacco. It is not long before the bait is swallowed; down + go the natives, the goods are sold, and the dollars have + once more found their way back into the captain's hands.</p> + + <p>I had a long talk with one of the natives, who arrived + to-day from Flint Island—a most picturesque-looking + individual, dressed in scarlet and orange-coloured flannel, and + a mass of black, shiny, curly hair. Flint Island is a place + whose existence has been disputed, it having been more than + once searched for by ships in vain. It was, therefore, + particularly interesting to meet some one who had actually + visited, and had just returned from, the spot in question. That + islands do occasionally disappear entirely in these parts there + can be little doubt. The Tahitian schooners were formerly in + the habit of trading with a small island close to Rarotonga, + whose name I forget; but about four years ago, when proceeding + thither with the usual three-monthly cargo of provisions, + prints, &c., they failed to find the island, of which no + trace has since been seen. Two missionaries from Rarotonga are + believed to have been on it at the time of its disappearance, + and to have shared its mysterious fate.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, December 7th</i>.—At eight o'clock I took + Mabelle and Muriel for a drive in a pony-carriage which had + been kindly lent me, but with a hint that the horse was rather + <i>méchant</i> sometimes. He behaved well on the present + occasion, however, and we had a pleasant drive in the outskirts + of the town for a couple of hours.</p> + + <p>Just as we returned, a gentleman came and asked me if I + should like to see some remarkably fine pearls, and on + <span class="pagenum">Page 247<a name="Page_247" + id="Page_247"></a></span>my gladly consenting, he took me to + his house, where I saw some pearls certainly worth going to + look at, but too expensive for me, one pear-shaped gem alone + having been valued at 1,000<i>l</i>. I was told they came + from a neighbouring island, and I was given two shells + containing pearls in various stages of formation.</p> + + <p>It was now time to go on board to receive some friends whom + we had invited to breakfast, and who arrived at about half-past + eleven.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_262" + id="Illus_262"></a> <img src="images/t_262.jpg" + width="227" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: A Tahitian Lady" + title="Illustration: A Tahitian Lady" /><br /> + <b>A Tahitian Lady</b><br /> + <a href="images/262.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>After breakfast, and a chat, and an examination of the + photograph books, &c., we all landed, and went to see + Messrs. Brander's stores, where all sorts of requisites for + fitting out ships and their crews can be procured. It is + surprising to find how plentiful are the supplies of the + necessaries and even the luxuries of civilised life in this + far-away corner of the globe. You can even get <i>ice</i> here, + for the manufacture of which a retired English infantry officer + has set up an establishment with great success. But what + interested me most were the products of this and the + <span class="pagenum">Page 248<a name="Page_248" + id="Page_248"></a></span>neighbouring islands. There were + tons of exquisitely tinted pearl shells, six or eight inches + in diameter, formerly a valuable article of commerce, but + now worth comparatively little. The pearls that came out of + them had unfortunately been sent away to + Liverpool—1,000<i>l</i>. worth by this morning's, and + 5,000<i>l</i> by the last mail-ship. Then there was vanilla, + a most precarious crop, which needs to be carefully watered + and shaded from the first moment it is planted, and which + must be gathered before it is ripe, and dried and matured in + a moist heat, between blankets and feather-beds, in order + that the pods may not crack and allow the essence to escape. + We saw also edible fungus, exported to San Francisco, and + thence to Hong Kong, solely for the use of the Chinese; + tripang, or <i>bêche-de-mer</i>, a sort of sea-slug or + holothuria, which, either living or dead, fresh or dried, + looks equally untempting, but is highly esteemed by the + Celestials; coprah, or dried cocoa-nut kernels, broken into + small pieces in order that they may stow better, and + exported to England and other parts, where the oil is + expressed and oil-cake formed; and various other articles of + commerce. The trade of the island is fast increasing, the + average invoice value of the exports having risen from + 8,400<i>l</i> in 1845 to 98,000<i>l</i> in 1874. These + totals are exclusive of the value of the pearls, which would + increase it by at least another 3,000<i>l</i> or + 4,000<i>l</i>.</p> + + <p>I speak from personal experience when I say that every + necessary of life on board ship, and many luxuries, can be + procured at Tahiti. American tinned fruits and vegetables beat + English ones hollow. Preserved milk is + uncertain—sometimes better, sometimes worse, than what + one buys at home. Tinned salmon is much better. Australian + mutton, New Zealand beef, and South Sea pork, leave nothing to + be desired in the way of preserved meat. Fresh beef, mutton, + and butter are hardly procurable, and the latter, when + preserved, is uneatable. I can never understand why they don't + take to potting and salting down for export the + <span class="pagenum">Page 249<a name="Page_249" + id="Page_249"></a></span><i>best</i> butter, at some large + Irish or Devonshire farm, instead of reserving that process + for butter which is just on the turn and is already almost + unfit to eat; the result being that, long before it has + reached a hot climate, it is only fit to grease + carriage-wheels with. It could be done, and I feel sure it + would pay, as good butter would fetch almost any price in + many places. Some Devonshire butter, which we brought with + us from England, is as good now, after ten thousand miles in + the tropics, as it was when first put on board; but a + considerable proportion is very bad, and was evidently not + in proper condition in the first instance.</p> + + <p>We had intended going afterwards to the coral reef with the + children to have a picnic there, and had accordingly given the + servants leave to go ashore for the evening; but it came on to + rain heavily, and we were obliged to return to the yacht + instead. The servants had, however, already availed themselves + of the permission they had received, and there was therefore no + one on board in their department; so we had to unpack our + basket and have our picnic on deck, under the awning, instead + of on the reef, which I think was almost as great a treat to + the children.</p> + + <p>We have, I am sorry to say, had a good deal of trouble with + some of our men here. One disappeared directly we arrived, and + has never been seen since. Another came off suffering from + delirium tremens and epileptic fits, brought on by drink. His + cries and struggles were horrible to hear and witness. It took + four strong men to hold him, and the doctor was up with him all + last night. Nearly all the ships that come here have been at + sea for a long time, and the men are simply wild when they get + ashore. Some of the people know only too well how to take + advantage of this state of things, and the consequence is that + it is hardly safe for a sailor to drink a glass of grog, for + fear that it should be drugged. No doubt there are respectable + places to which the men could resort, but it is not easy for a + stranger to find them out, and our men seem to have been + <span class="pagenum">Page 250<a name="Page_250" + id="Page_250"></a></span>particularly unfortunate in this + respect. Tom talks of leaving two of them behind, and + shipping four fresh hands, as our number is already rather + short.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, December 8th</i>.—I persuaded Tom to make + another excursion to the coral reef this morning, and at five + o'clock he and Mabelle and I set off in the 'Flash,' just as + the sun was rising. We had a delightful row, past the + Quarantine Island<a name="FNanchor_11_11" + id="FNanchor_11_11"></a> <a href="#Footnote_11_11" + class="fnanchor">[11]</a>, to the portion of the reef on the + other side of the harbour, where we had not yet been, and + where I think the coral plants and flowers and bushes showed + to greater advantage than ever, as they were less crowded, + and the occasional patches of sandy bottom enabled one to + see them better. We were so engrossed in our examination of + these marvels of the deep, and of the fish with which the + water abounded, that we found ourselves aground several + times, and our return to the yacht was consequently + delayed.</p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_11_11" + id="Footnote_11_11"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> + The native name is 'Motu-iti,' i.e. <i>little + island</i>.</p> + </div> + + <p>After breakfast I had another visit from a man with + war-cloaks, shell-belts, <i>tapa</i>, and <i>reva reva</i>, + which he brought on board for my inspection. It was a difficult + task to make him understand what I meant, but at last I thought + I had succeeded in impressing on his mind the fact that I + wished to buy them, and that they would be paid for at the + store. The sequel unfortunately proved that I was mistaken. At + nine o'clock we set out for the shore, and after landing drove + along the same road by which we had returned from our excursion + round the island<a name="FNanchor_12_12" + id="FNanchor_12_12">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_12_12" + class="fnanchor">[12]</a> After seeing as much of the place + as our limited time would allow, we drove over to Faataua, + where we found the children and maids. The grand piano, + every table, and the drawing-room floor, + <span class="pagenum">Page 251<a name="Page_251" + id="Page_251"></a></span>were spread with the presents we + were expected to take away with us. There were bunches of + scarlet feathers, two or three hundred in number, from the + tail of the tropic bird, which are only allowed to be + possessed and worn by chiefs, and which are of great value, + as each bird produces only two feathers; pearl shells, with + corals growing on them, red coral from the islands on the + Equator, curious sponges and sea-weed, <i>tapa</i> cloth and + <i>reva-reva</i> fringe, arrowroot and palm-leaf hats, + cocoa-nut drinking vessels, fine mats plaited in many + patterns, and other specimens of the products of the + island.</p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_12_12" + id="Footnote_12_12"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> + We paid a brief visit to Point Venus, whence Captain + Cook observed the transit of Venus on November 9th, + 1769, and we saw the lighthouse and tamarind tree, which + now mark the spot. The latter, from which we brought + away some seed, was undoubtedly planted by Captain Cook + with his own hand.</p> + </div> + + <div class="figright"> + <a name="Illus_266" + id="Illus_266"></a> <img src="images/t_266.gif" + width="42" + height="400" + alt="Illustration: Tropic Feathers" + title="Illustration: Tropic Feathers" /><br /> + <b>Tropic Feathers</b><br /> + <a href="images/266.gif">View full size<br /> + illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>All the members of the royal family at present in Tahiti had + been invited to meet us, and arrived in due course, including + the heir-apparent and his brother and sister. All the guests + were dressed in the native costume, with wreaths on their heads + and necks, and even the servants—including our own, whom + I hardly recognised—were similarly decorated. Wreaths had + also been prepared for us, three of fragrant yellow flowers for + Mabelle, Muriel, and myself, and others of a different kind for + the gentlemen.</p> + + <p>When the feast was ready the Prince offered me his arm, and + we all walked in a procession to a grove of bananas in the + garden through two lines of native servants, who, at a given + signal, saluted us with three hearty English cheers. We then + continued our walk till we arrived at a house, built in the + native style, by the side of a rocky stream, like a Scotch + burn. The uprights of the house were banana trees, transplanted + with their leaves on, so as to shade the roof, which was formed + of plaited cocoa-nut palm-leaves, each about fifteen feet long, + laid transversely across bamboo rafters. From these light-green + <span class="pagenum">Page 252<a name="Page_252" + id="Page_252"></a></span>supports and the dark green roof + depended the yellow and brown leaves of the <i>theve</i>, + woven into graceful garlands and elegant festoons. The floor + was covered with the finest mats, with black and white + borders, and the centre strewn with broad green plantain + leaves, to form the tablecloth, on which were laid baskets + and dishes, made of leaves sewed together, and containing + all sorts of native delicacies. There were oysters, + lobsters, wurrali, and crawfish, stewed chicken, boiled + sucking-pig, plantains, bread-fruit, melons, bananas, + oranges, and strawberries. Before each guest was placed a + half cocoa-nut full of salt water, another full of chopped + cocoa-nut, a third full of fresh water, and another full of + milk, two pieces of bamboo, a basket of <i>poi</i>, half a + bread-fruit, and a platter of green leaves, the latter being + changed with each course. We took our seats on the ground + round the green table. An address was first delivered in the + native language, grace was then said, and we commenced. The + first operation was to mix the salt water and the chopped + cocoa-nut together, so as to make an appetising sauce, into + which we were supposed to dip each morsel we ate, the empty + salt-water bowl being filled up with fresh water with which + to wash our fingers and lips. We were tolerably successful + in the use of our fingers as substitutes for knives and + forks. The only drawback was that the dinner had to be eaten + amid such a scene of novelty and beauty, that our attention + was continually distracted: there was so much to admire, + both in the house itself and outside it. After we had + finished, all the servants sat down to dinner, and from a + daïs at one end of the room we surveyed the bright and + animated scene, the gentlemen—and some of the ladies + too—meanwhile enjoying their cigarettes.</p> + + <p>When we got down to Papeete, at about half-past four, so + many things had to be done that it seemed impossible to + accomplish a start this evening. First of all the two Princes + came on board, and were shown round, after which + <span class="pagenum">Page 253<a name="Page_253" + id="Page_253"></a></span>there were accounts to be paid, + linen to be got on board; and various other preparations to + be made. Presently it was discovered that the cloaks I had + purchased—or thought I had purchased—this + morning had not turned up, and that our saddles had been + left at Faataua on Sunday and had been forgotten. The latter + were immediately sent for, but although some one went on + shore to look after the cloaks nothing could be heard of + them; so I suppose I failed after all in making the man + understand that he was to take them to the store and be paid + for them there.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_268" + id="Illus_268"></a> <img src="images/t_268.gif" + width="229" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Chætodon Besantii" + title="Illustration: Chætodon Besantii" /><br /> + <b>Chætodon Besantii</b><br /> + <a href="images/268.gif"><br /> + View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>At six o'clock the pilot sent word that it was no longer + safe to go out; but steam was already up, and Tom therefore + decided to go outside the reef and there wait for the people + and goods that were still on shore. At this moment the saddles + appeared in one direction, and the rest of the party in + another. They were soon on board, the anchor was raised, and we + began to steam slowly ahead, taking a last regretful look at + Papeete as we left the harbour. By the time we were outside it + was dark, the pilot went ashore, and we steamed full speed + ahead. After dinner, and indeed until we went to bed, at + half-past eleven, the lights along the shore were clearly + visible, and the form of the high mountains behind could be + distinguished.</p> + + <p>Good-bye, lovely Tahiti! I wonder if I shall ever see you + again; it makes me quite sad to think how small is the chance + of my doing so.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 254<a name="Page_254" + id="Page_254"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XV" + id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">TAHITI TO SANDWICH ISLANDS.—KILAUEA BY DAY + AND BY NIGHT.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>Methinks it should have been + impossible</i><br /></span> <span><i>Not to love all + things in a world so filled</i>,<br /></span> + <span><i>Where the breeze warbles, and the mute still + air</i><br /></span> <span><i>Is music, slumbering on + her instrument</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Saturday, December 9th</i>.—After leaving the + harbour of Papeete we passed close to the island of Eimeo, on + which we have gazed so often and with so much pleasure during + the past week. It is considered the most beautiful island of + the Georgian group, and we all regretted that we were unable to + spare the time to visit it. From afar it is rather like the + dolomite mountains in the Tyrol, and it is said that the + resemblance is even more striking on a near approach. The + harbour is a long narrow gorge between high mountains, clothed + with palms, oranges, and plantains, and is one of the most + remarkable features of the place. Huahine is the island of + which the Earl and the Doctor speak, in 'South Sea Bubbles,' in + terms of such enthusiasm, and Rarotonga is the head and centre + of all the missionary efforts of the present time in these + parts.</p> + + <p>The weather to-day was fine, though we had occasional + squalls of wind and rain. We were close-hauled, and the motion + of the vessel was violent and disagreeable. I was very + sea-sick, and was consoled to find that several of the men were + so too. A head sea—or nearly so—is quite a novel + experience for us of late, and we none of us like the + change.<span class="pagenum">Page 255<a name="Page_255" + id="Page_255"></a></span></p> + + <p><i>Sunday, December 10th</i>.—Another squally day. + Still close-hauled, and even then not on our course. We had a + short service at eleven, but it was as much as I could do to + remain on deck.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, December 11th</i>.—Very like yesterday. We + passed close to Flint and Vostok Islands, at the former of + which I should have much liked to land. But it was a good deal + to leeward of us; there is no anchorage, and the landing, which + is always difficult and sometimes impossible, has to be + effected in native surf-boats. It would have been interesting + to see a guano island, of which this is a perfect specimen.</p> + + <p>We had hoped to make the Caroline Islands before dark (not + the Caroline Islands proper, but a group of low islets, whose + position is very uncertainly indicated in the different charts + and books); but the wind fell light, and as we could see + nothing of them at sunset, although the view from the masthead + extended at least fifteen miles in every direction, it was + decided at eight o'clock to put the ship about, to insure not + running on them or any of the surrounding reefs in the night. + The currents run very swiftly between these islands, and it is + impossible to tell your exact position, even a few hours after + having taken an observation.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, December 12th</i>.—The wind freshened + immediately after we had changed our course last night, and + fell light directly we had put about again this morning, so + that it was fully 9 a.m. before we had regained our position of + yesterday evening.</p> + + <p>Our compass-cards were getting worn out, and Tom gave out + new ones before leaving Tahiti. I was very much amused + to-night, when, as usual, just before going to bed, I went to + have a look at the compass and see how the yacht was lying, and + asked the man at the wheel what course he was steering. 'North + and by west, half-east, ma'am,' he replied. 'That's a funny + course,' I said; 'tell <span class="pagenum">Page + 256<a name="Page_256" + id="Page_256"></a></span>me again.' He repeated his + statement; whereupon I remarked that the course was quite a + new one to me. 'Oh, yes, ma'am,' he answered, 'but them's + the new compass-cards.' This man is one of the best helmsmen + in the ship, but certainly seems to be an indifferent + scholar.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, December 15th</i>.—We crossed the line at + half-past four this morning. Father Neptune was to have paid us + another visit in the evening, but the crew were busy, and there + were some difficulties about arranging the details of the + ceremony. The children were obliged, therefore, to be content + with their usual game of drilling every one that they were able + to muster for soldiers, after the fashion of Captain Brown's + 'rifle practice,' or marching up and down the decks to the + strains of Jem Butt's fiddle playing 'Tommy make room for your + Uncle,' accompanied by the somewhat discordant noise of their + own drums. These amusements after sunset, and scrubbing decks + and working at the pumps before sunrise, give us all the + much-needed exercise it is impossible to take in the heat of + the daytime.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_271" + id="Illus_271"></a> <img src="images/t_271.jpg" + width="154" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Tattoo in the Tropics" + title="Illustration: Tattoo in the Tropics" /><br /> + <b>Tattoo in the Tropics</b><br /> + <a href="images/271.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 257<a name="Page_257" + id="Page_257"></a></span></p> + + <p><i>Saturday, December 16th</i>.—At 1.30 a.m. I was + awoke by the strains of sweet music, and could not at first + imagine where I could be, or whence the sounds came. It proved + to be the performance of some 'waits' on board. I do not know + who originated the idea, but it was a very good one, and was + excellently carried out. Everybody assembled on deck by + degrees, and the songsters enjoyed a glass of grog when their + labours were finished, after which we all went to bed + again.</p> + + <p>It had fallen calm yesterday evening, and the funnel was + raised at midnight, but the breeze sprang up again to-day, and + at noon the fires were banked and the sails were set. Of course + it then fell calm again, and at six o'clock we were once more + proceeding under steam. There was one squall in the night, + accompanied by the most tremendous rain I ever saw or heard. We + talk of tropical rain in England, but the real thing is very + different. It seemed just as if the bottom of an enormous + cistern overhead had suddenly been removed, allowing the + contents to fall exactly on the spot where we were. The water + came down in sheets, and was soon three or four inches deep on + the deck, though it was pouring out of the scuppers all the + time as fast as possible.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, December 17th</i>.—A showery morning. We + had Communion Service and hymns at eleven. In the afternoon it + was too rough for 'church,' and Tom was unable to deliver his + intended address to the men.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, December 18th</i>.—We were close-hauled, + with a strong north-east wind, and heavy squalls and showers at + intervals. We saw several flying-fish and a good many birds, + apparently hovering over a shoal of whales or grampuses. It is + wonderful how little life we have seen on this portion of our + voyage.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, December 19th</i>.—A fine day—wind + rather more fair—sea still rough and disagreeable. I + tried to work hard all day, but found it very + difficult.<span class="pagenum">Page 258<a name="Page_258" + id="Page_258"></a></span></p> + + <p><i>Thursday, December 21st</i>.—Wind variable and + baffling—sometimes calm, sometimes squally, sometimes a + nice breeze. Sails were hoisted and lowered at least a dozen + times, and fires were banked more than once.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, December 22nd</i>.—At 6.30 a.m. we made the + island of Hawaii, rather too much to leeward, as we had been + carried by the strong current at least eighteen miles out of + our course. We were therefore obliged to beat up to windward, + in the course of which operation we passed a large barque + running before the wind—the first ship we had seen since + leaving Tahiti—and also a fine whale, blowing, close to + us. We could not see the high land in the centre of the island, + owing to the mist in which it was enveloped, and there was + great excitement and much speculation on board as to the + principal points which were visible. At noon the observations + taken proved that Tom was right in his opinion as to our exact + position. The wind dropped as we approached the coast, where we + could see the heavy surf dashing against the black lava cliffs, + rushing up the little creeks, and throwing its spray in huge + fountain-like jets high above the tall cocoa-nut trees far + inland.</p> + + <p>We sailed along close to the shore, and by two o'clock were + near the entrance to the Bay of Hilo. In answer to our signal + for a pilot a boat came off with a man who said he knew the + entrance to the harbour, but informed us that the proper pilot + had gone to Honolulu on a pleasure trip.</p> + + <p>It was a clear afternoon. The mountains, Mauna Kea and Mauna + Loa, could be plainly seen from top to bottom, their giant + crests rising nearly 14,000 feet above our heads, their tree + and fern clad slopes seamed with deep gulches or ravines, down + each of which a fertilising river ran into the sea. Inside the + reef, the white coral shore, on which the waves seemed too lazy + to break, is fringed with a belt of cocoa-nut palms, amongst + which, as well as on the hill-sides, the little white houses + are prettily dotted. All are surrounded by gardens, so full of + flowers that the bright <span class="pagenum">Page + 259<a name="Page_259" + id="Page_259"></a></span>patches of colour were plainly + visible even from the deck of the yacht. The harbour is + large, and is exposed only to one bad wind, which is most + prevalent during the winter months. Still, with good + ground-tackle, there is not much to be feared, and there is + one particular spot, sheltered by the Blonde reef, which is + almost always safe. Here, accordingly, we have taken up our + station, though it is rather far from the town. Sometimes it + is impossible to land at Hilo itself for days together, but + there is fortunately a little creek behind Cocoa-nut Island + which is always accessible.</p> + + <p>This afternoon the weather was all that could be desired, + and at three o'clock we landed and went straight to Mr. + Conway's store to make arrangements for going to the volcano of + Kilauea to-morrow. Mr. Conway sent a man off at once on + horseback to warn the people at the 'Half-way House' and at + 'Volcano House' to make preparations to receive our + party—a necessary precaution, as visitors to the island + are not numerous, and can only arrive by the monthly steamer + from Honolulu.</p> + + <p>Having arranged this matter, we went for a stroll, among + neat houses and pretty gardens, to the suspension-bridge over + the river, followed by a crowd of girls, all decorated with + wreaths and garlands, and wearing almost the same dress that we + had seen at Tahiti—a coloured long-sleeved loose gown + reaching to the feet. The natives here appear to affect duller + colours than those we have lately been accustomed to, lilac, + drab, brown, and other dark prints being the favourite tints. + Whenever I stopped to look at a view, one of the girls would + come behind me and throw a <i>lei</i> of flowers over my head, + fasten it round my neck, and then run away laughing, to a + distance, to judge of effect. The consequence was that, before + the end of our walk, I had about a dozen wreaths, of various + colours and lengths, hanging round me, till I felt almost as if + I had a fur tippet on, they made me so hot; and yet I did not + like to take them off for fear of hurting the poor girls' + feelings.<span class="pagenum">Page 260<a name="Page_260" + id="Page_260"></a></span></p> + + <p>We walked along the river bank, and crossed to the other + side just below the rapids, jumping over the narrow channels + through which the water hurried and rushed. Some of our + attendant girls carried Muriel and the dogs, and, springing + barefooted from rock to rock, led us across the stream and up + the precipitous banks on the other side. There is a sort of + hotel here, kept by a Chinaman, where everything is + scrupulously clean, and the food good though plain. It is + rather more like a lodging-house than an hotel, however. You + hire your rooms, and are expected to make special arrangements + for board. Before we got back to the yacht it had become dark, + the moon had risen, and we could see the reflection in the sky + of the fires in the crater of Kilauea. I do hope the volcano + will be active to-morrow. It is never two days in the same + condition, and visitors have frequently remained in the + neighbourhood of the crater for a week without seeing an + eruption.</p> + + <p>The starlit sky, the bright young moon, and the red cloud + from Kilauea, floating far above our heads, made up a most + beautiful scene from the deck of the 'Sunbeam.'</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, December 23rd</i>.—The boatman who + brought us off last night had told us that Saturday was + market-day at Hilo, and that at five o'clock the natives would + come in from the surrounding country in crowds to buy their + Sunday and Christmas Day provisions, and to bring their own + produce for sale. We accordingly gave orders that the boat + should come for us at a quarter to five, shortly before which + we got up and went on deck. We waited patiently in the dark + until half-past five, when, no boat appearing from the shore, + the dingy was manned and we landed. The lights in the town were + all out, the day had hardly dawned, and there were no signs of + life to be seen. At last we met two men, who told us we should + find the market near the river, and offered to show us the way; + but when we arrived at the spot they had indicated we found + <span class="pagenum">Page 261<a name="Page_261" + id="Page_261"></a></span>only a large butcher's shop, and + were informed that the regular market for fish, fruit, and + other things was held at five o'clock <i>in the + afternoon</i> instead of in the morning. We had thus had all + our trouble for nothing, and the non-appearance of the boat + was fully explained.</p> + + <p>Presently we met a friend who took us to his home. It was a + pretty walk, by the side of the river and through numerous + gardens, fresh with the morning dew. He gave us the latest news + from the United States, and presented us with oranges and + flowers, with which we returned to the yacht. We were on board + again by seven, and, having packed up our things and sent them + ashore, had an early breakfast, and landed, in readiness for + our excursion to Kilauea. The baggage animals ought already to + have started, but we found they had been kept back, in case we + should happen to forget anything. Quite a crowd assembled to + see us off, and a good deal of gossip had to be got through, so + that it was half-past nine before we were all mounted and + fairly off.</p> + + <p>The first part of our way lay along the flat ground, gay + with bright scarlet Guernsey lilies, and shaded by cocoa-nut + trees, between the town and the sea. Then we struck off to the + right, and soon left the town behind us, emerging into the open + country. At a distance from the sea, Hilo looks as green as the + Emerald Isle itself; but on a closer inspection the grass turns + out to be coarse and dry, and many of the trees look scrubby + and half dead. Except in the 'gulches' and the deep holes + between the hills, the island is covered with lava, in many + places of so recent a deposit that it has not yet had time to + decompose, and there is consequently only a thin layer of soil + on its surface. This soil being, however, very rich, vegetation + flourishes luxuriantly for a time; but as soon as the roots + have penetrated a certain depth, and have come into contact + with the lava, the trees wither up and perish, like the seed + that fell on stony ground. <span class="pagenum">Page + 262<a name="Page_262" + id="Page_262"></a></span></p> + + <p>The <i>ohia</i> trees form a handsome feature in the + landscape, with their thick tall stems, glossy foliage, and + light crimson flowers. The fruit is a small pink waxy-looking + apple, slightly acid, pleasant to the taste when you are + thirsty. The candle-nut trees attain to a large size, and their + light green foliage and white flowers have a very graceful + appearance. Most of the foliage, however, is spoiled by a + deposit of black dust, not unlike what one sees on the leaves + in a London garden. I do not know whether this is caused by the + fumes of the not far-distant volcano, or whether it is some + kind of mould or fungus.</p> + + <p>After riding about ten miles in the blazing sun we reached a + forest, where the vegetation was quite tropical, though not so + varied in its beauties as that of Brazil, or of the still more + lovely South Sea Islands. There were ferns of various + descriptions in the forest, and many fine trees, entwined, + supported, or suffocated by numerous climbing plants, amongst + which were blue and lilac convolvulus, and magnificent + passion-flowers. The protection from the sun afforded by this + dense mass of foliage was extremely grateful; but the air of + the forest was close and stifling, and at the end of five miles + we were glad to emerge once more into the open. The rest of the + way lay over the hard lava, through a sort of desert of scrubby + vegetation, occasionally relieved by clumps of trees in + hollows. More than once we had a fine view of the sea, + stretching away into the far distance, though it was sometimes + mistaken for the bright blue sky, until the surf could be seen + breaking upon the black rocks, amid the encircling groves of + cocoa-nut trees.</p> + + <p>The sun shone fiercely at intervals, and the rain came down + several times in torrents. The pace was slow, the road was dull + and dreary, and many were the inquiries made for the 'Half-way + House,' long before we reached it. We had still two miles + farther to go, in the course of which we were drenched by a + heavy shower. At last <span class="pagenum">Page + 263<a name="Page_263" + id="Page_263"></a></span>we came to a native house, crowded + with people, where they were making <i>tappa</i> or + <i>kapa</i>—the cloth made from the bark of the + paper-mulberry. Here we stopped for a few minutes until our + guide hurried us on, pointing out the church and the + 'Half-way House' just ahead.</p> + + <p>We were indeed glad to dismount after our weary ride, and + rest in the comfortable rocking-chairs under the verandah. It + is a small white wooden building, overhung with orange-trees, + with a pond full of ducks and geese outside it, and a few + scattered outbuildings, including a cooking hut, close by. A + good-looking man was busy broiling beef-steaks, stewing + chickens, and boiling <i>taro</i>, and we had soon a plentiful + repast set before us, with the very weakest of weak tea as a + beverage. The woman of the house, which contained some finely + worked mats and clean-looking beds, showed us some <i>tappa + cloth</i>, together with the mallets and other instruments used + in its manufacture, and a beautiful orange-coloured <i>lei</i>, + or feather necklace, which she had made herself. The cloth and + mallets were for sale, but no inducement would persuade her to + part with the necklace. It was the first she had ever made, and + I was afterwards told that the natives are superstitiously + careful to preserve the first specimen of their handiwork, of + whatever kind it may be.</p> + + <p>A woman dressed in a pink <i>holoku</i> and a light green + apron had followed us hither from the cottages we had first + stopped at, and I noticed at the time that, though she was + chatting and laughing with a female companion, she did not seem + very well. Whilst we were at lunch a sudden increase to her + family took place, and before we were ready to start I paid her + and her infant a visit. She was then sitting up, apparently as + well as ever, and seemed to look upon the recent event as a + very light matter.</p> + + <p>Directly we had finished our meal—about three + o'clock—the guide came and tried to persuade us that, as + the baggage-mules had not yet arrived, it would be too late + <span class="pagenum">Page 264<a name="Page_264" + id="Page_264"></a></span>for us to go on to-day, and that we + had better spend the night where we were, and start early in + the morning. We did not, however, approve of this + arrangement, so the horses were saddled, and, leaving word + that the baggage-mules were to follow on as soon as + possible, we mounted, and set off for the 'Volcano House.' + We had not gone far before we were again overtaken by a + shower, which once more drenched us to the skin.</p> + + <p>The scene was certainly one of extreme beauty. The moon was + hidden by a cloud, and the prospect lighted only by the red + glare of the volcano, which hovered before and above us like + the Israelites' pillar of fire, giving us hopes of a splendid + spectacle when we should at last reach the long-wished-for + crater. Presently the moon shone forth again, and gleamed and + glistened on the rain-drops and silver-grasses till they looked + like fireflies and glowworms. At last, becoming impatient, we + proceeded slowly on our way, until we met a man on horseback, + who hailed us in a cheery voice with an unmistakable American + accent. It was the landlord of the 'Volcano House,' Mr. Kane, + who, fearing from the delay that we had met with some mishap, + had started to look for us. He explained that he thought it was + only his duty to look after and help ladies visiting the + volcano, and added that he had intended going down as far as + the 'Half-way House' in search of us. It was a great relief to + know that we were in the right track, and I quite enjoyed the + gallop through the dark forest, though there was barely + sufficient light to enable me to discern the horse immediately + in front of me. When we emerged from the wood, we found + ourselves at the very edge of the old crater, the bed of which, + three or four hundred feet beneath us, was surrounded by steep + and in many places overhanging sides. It looked like an + enormous cauldron, four or five miles in width, full of a mass + of cooled pitch. In the centre was the still glowing stream of + dark red lava, flowing slowly towards us, and in every + direction were red-hot <span class="pagenum">Page + 265<a name="Page_265" + id="Page_265"></a></span>patches, and flames and smoke + issuing from the ground. A bit of the 'black country' at + night, with all the coal-heaps on fire, would give you some + idea of the scene. Yet the first sensation is rather one of + disappointment, as one expects greater activity on the part + of the volcano; but the new crater was still to be seen, + containing the lake of fire, with steep walls rising up in + the midst of the sea of lava.</p> + + <p>Twenty minutes' hard riding brought us to the door of the + 'Volcano House,' from which issued the comforting light of a + large wood fire, reaching halfway up the chimney. Native + garments replaced Mabelle's and my dripping habits, and we sat + before the fire in luxury until the rest of the party arrived. + After some delay supper was served, cooked by our host, and + accompanied by excellent Bass's beer, no wine or spirits being + procurable on the premises. Mr. Kane made many apologies for + shortcomings, explaining that his cook had run away that + morning, and that his wife was not able to do much to assist + him, as her first baby was only a week old.</p> + + <p>Everything at this inn is most comfortable, though the style + is rough and ready. The interior is just now decorated for + Christmas, with wreaths, and evergreens, and ferns, and bunches + of white plumes, not unlike <i>reva-reva</i>, made from the + pith of the silver-grass. The beds and bedrooms are clean, but + limited in number, there being only three of the latter + altogether. The rooms are separated only by partitions of + grass, seven feet high, so that there is plenty of ventilation, + and the heat of the fire permeates the whole building. But you + must not talk secrets in these dormitories or be too restless. + I was amused to find, in the morning, that I had unconsciously + poked my hand through the wall of our room during the + night.</p> + + <p>The grandeur of the view in the direction of the volcano + increased as the evening wore on. The fiery cloud above the + present crater augmented in size and depth of colour; the + extinct crater glowed red in thirty or forty different + <span class="pagenum">Page 266<a name="Page_266" + id="Page_266"></a></span>places; and clouds of white vapour + issued from every crack and crevice in the ground, adding to + the sulphurous smell with which the atmosphere was laden. + Our room faced the volcano: there were no blinds, and I drew + back the curtains and lay watching the splendid scene until + I fell asleep.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, December 24th (Christmas Eve)</i>.—I was up + at four o'clock, to gaze once more on the wondrous spectacle + that lay before me. The molten lava still flowed in many + places, the red cloud over the fiery lake was bright as ever, + and steam was slowly ascending in every direction, over hill + and valley, till, as the sun rose, it became difficult to + distinguish clearly the sulphurous vapours from the morning + mists. We walked down to the Sulphur Banks, about a quarter of + a mile from the 'Volcano House,' and burnt our gloves and boots + in our endeavours to procure crystals, the beauty of which + generally disappeared after a very short exposure to the air. + We succeeded, however, in finding a few good specimens, and, by + wrapping them at once in paper and cotton-wool and putting them + into a bottle, hope to bring them home uninjured.</p> + + <p>On our return we found a gentleman who had just arrived from + Kau, and who proposed to join us in our expedition to the + crater, and at three o'clock in the afternoon we set out, a + party of eight, with two guides, and three porters to carry our + wraps and provisions, and to bring back specimens. Before + leaving the inn the landlord came to us and begged us in an + earnest and confidential manner to be very careful, to do + exactly what our guides told us, and especially to follow in + their footsteps exactly when returning in the dark. He added, + 'There never has been an accident happen to anybody from my + house, and I should feel real mean if one did: but there have + been a power of narrow escapes.'</p> + + <p>First of all we descended the precipice, 300 feet in depth, + forming the wall of the old crater, but now thickly + <span class="pagenum">Page 267<a name="Page_267" + id="Page_267"></a></span>covered with vegetation. It is so + steep in many places that flights of zig-zag wooden steps + have been inserted in the face of the cliff in some places, + in order to render the descent practicable. At the bottom we + stepped straight on to the surface of cold boiled lava, + which we had seen from above last night. Even here, in every + crevice where a few grains of soil had collected, delicate + little ferns might be seen struggling for life, and + thrusting out their green fronds towards the light. It was + the most extraordinary walk imaginable over that vast plain + of lava, twisted and distorted into every conceivable shape + and form, according to the temperature it had originally + attained, and the rapidity with which it had cooled, its + surface, like half-molten glass, cracking and breaking + beneath our feet. Sometimes we came to a patch that looked + like the contents of a pot, suddenly petrified in the act of + boiling; sometimes the black iridescent lava had assumed the + form of waves, or more frequently of huge masses of rope, + twisted and coiled together; sometimes it was piled up like + a collection of organ-pipes, or had gathered into mounds and + cones of various dimensions. As we proceeded the lava became + hotter and hotter, and from every crack arose gaseous fumes, + affecting our noses and throats in a painful manner; till at + last, when we had to pass to leeward of the molten stream + flowing from the lake, the vapours almost choked us, and it + was with difficulty we continued to advance. The lava was + more glassy and transparent-looking, as if it had been fused + at a higher temperature than usual; and the crystals of + sulphur, alum, and other minerals, with which it abounded, + reflected the light in bright prismatic colours. In places + it was quite transparent, and we could see beneath it the + long streaks of a stringy kind of lava, like brown spun + glass, called 'Pélé's hair.'</p> + + <p>At last we reached the foot of the present crater, and + commenced the ascent of the outer wall. Many times the thin + crust gave way beneath our guide, and he had to retire + <span class="pagenum">Page 268<a name="Page_268" + id="Page_268"></a></span>quickly from the hot, blinding, + choking fumes that immediately burst forth. But we succeeded + in reaching the top; and then what a sight presented itself + to our astonished eyes! I could neither speak nor move at + first, but could only stand and gaze at the horrible + grandeur of the scene.</p> + + <p>We were standing on the extreme edge of a precipice, + overhanging a lake of molten fire, a hundred feet below us, and + nearly a mile across. Dashing against the cliffs on the + opposite side, with a noise like the roar of a stormy ocean, + waves of blood-red, fiery, liquid lava hurled their billows + upon an iron-bound headland, and then rushed up the face of the + cliffs to toss their gory spray high in the air. The restless, + heaving lake boiled and bubbled, never remaining the same for + two minutes together. Its normal colour seemed to be a dull + dark red, covered with a thin grey scum, which every moment and + in every part swelled and cracked, and emitted fountains, + cascades, and whirlpools of yellow and red fire, while + sometimes one big golden river, sometimes four or five, flowed + across it. There was an island on one side of the lake, which + the fiery waves seemed to attack unceasingly with relentless + fury, as if bent on hurling it from its base. On the other side + was a large cavern, into which the burning mass rushed with a + loud roar, breaking down in its impetuous headlong career the + gigantic stalactites that overhung the mouth of the cave, and + flinging up the liquid material for the formation of fresh + ones.</p> + + <p>It was all terribly grand, magnificently sublime; but no + words could adequately describe such a scene. The precipice on + which we were standing overhung the crater so much that it was + impossible to see what was going on immediately beneath; but + from the columns of smoke and vapour that arose, the flames and + sparks that constantly drove us back from the edge, it was easy + to imagine that there must have been two or three grand fiery + fountains below. As the sun set, and darkness enveloped the + scene, <span class="pagenum">Page 269<a name="Page_269" + id="Page_269"></a></span>it became more awful than ever. We + retired a little way from the brink, to breathe some fresh + air, and to try and eat the food we had brought with us; but + this was an impossibility. Every instant a fresh explosion + or glare made us jump up to survey the stupendous scene. The + violent struggles of the lava to escape from its fiery bed, + and the loud and awful noises by which they were at times + accompanied, suggested the idea that some imprisoned + monsters were trying to release themselves from their + bondage, with shrieks and groans, and cries of agony and + despair, at the futility of their efforts.</p> + + <p>Sometimes there were at least seven spots on the borders of + the lake where the molten lava dashed up furiously against the + rocks—seven fire-fountains playing simultaneously. With + the increasing darkness the colours emitted by the glowing mass + became more and more wonderful, varying from the deepest jet + black to the palest grey, from darkest maroon, through cherry + and scarlet, to the most delicate pink, violet, and blue; from + the richest brown, through orange and yellow, to the lightest + straw-colour. And there was yet another shade, only describable + by the term 'molten-lava colour.' Even the smokes and vapours + were rendered beautiful by their borrowed lights and tints, and + the black peaks, pinnacles, and crags, which surrounded the + amphitheatre, formed a splendid and appropriate background. + Sometimes great pieces broke off and tumbled with a crash into + the burning lake, only to be remelted and thrown up anew. I had + for some time been feeling very hot and uncomfortable, and on + looking round the cause was at once apparent. Not two inches + beneath the surface, the grey lava on which we were standing + and sitting was red-hot. A stick thrust through it caught fire, + a piece of paper was immediately destroyed, and the gentlemen + found the heat from the crevices so great that they could not + approach near enough to light their pipes. + <span class="pagenum">Page 270<a name="Page_270" + id="Page_270"></a></span></p> + + <p>One more long last look, and then we turned our faces away + from the scene that had enthralled us for so many hours. The + whole of the lava we had crossed, in the extinct crater, was + now aglow in many patches, and in all directions flames were + bursting forth, fresh lava was flowing, and steam and smoke + were issuing from the surface. It was a toilsome journey back + again, walking as we did in single file, and obeying the strict + injunctions of our head guide to follow him closely, and to + tread exactly in his footsteps. On the whole it was easier by + night than by day to distinguish the route to be taken, as we + could now see the dangers that before we could only feel; and + many were the fiery crevices we stepped over or jumped across. + Once I slipped, and my foot sank through the thin crust. Sparks + issued from the ground, and the stick on which I leant caught + fire before I could fairly recover myself.</p> + + <p>Either from the effects of the unaccustomed exercise after + our long voyage, or from the intense excitement of the novel + scene, combined with the gaseous exhalations from the lava, my + strength began to fail, and before reaching the side of the + crater I felt quite exhausted. I struggled on at short + intervals, however, collapsing several times and fainting away + twice; but at last I had fairly to give in, and to allow myself + to be ignominiously carried up the steep precipice to the + 'Volcano House' on a chair, which the guides went to fetch for + me.</p> + + <p>It was half-past eleven when we once more found ourselves + beneath Mr. Kane's hospitable roof; he had expected us to + return at nine o'clock, and was beginning to feel anxious about + us.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, December 25th (Christmas Day)</i>.—Turning + in last night was the work of a very few minutes, and this + morning I awoke perfectly refreshed and ready to appreciate + anew the wonders of the prospect that met my eyes. The pillar + of fire was still distinctly visible when I looked out from my + window, though it was not so bright as when + <span class="pagenum">Page 271<a name="Page_271" + id="Page_271"></a></span> I had last seen it; but even as I + looked it began to fade, and gradually disappeared. At the + same moment a river of glowing lava issued from the side of + the bank we had climbed with so much difficulty yesterday, + and slowly but surely overflowed the ground we had walked + over. I woke Tom, and you may imagine the feelings with + which we gazed upon this startling phenomenon, which, had it + occurred a few hours earlier, might have caused the + destruction of the whole party. If our expedition had been + made to-day instead of yesterday, we should certainly have + had to proceed by a different route to the crater, and + should have looked down on the lake of fire from a different + spot.</p> + + <p>I cannot hope that in my attempt to give you some idea of + Kilauea as we beheld it, I shall be successful in conveying + more than a very faint impression of its glories. I feel that + my description is so utterly inadequate, that, were it not for + the space, I should be tempted to send you in full the + experiences of previous visitors, as narrated in Miss Bird's + 'Six Months in the Sandwich Islands,' and Mr. Bodham Whetham's + 'Pearls of the Pacific.' The account contained in the former + work I had read before arriving here; the latter I enjoyed at + the 'Volcano House.' Both are well worth reading by any one who + feels an interest in the subject.</p> + + <p>It would, I think, be difficult to imagine a more + interesting and exciting mode of spending Christmas Eve than + yesterday has taught us, or a stranger situation in which to + exchange our Christmas greetings than beneath the grass roof of + an inn on the edge of a volcano in the remote Sandwich Islands. + They were certainly rendered none the less cordial and sincere + by the novelty of our position, and I think we are all rather + glad not to have in prospect the inevitable feastings and + ceremonies, without which it seems to be impossible to + commemorate this season in England. If we had seen nothing but + Kilauea since we <span class="pagenum">Page + 272<a name="Page_272" + id="Page_272"></a></span>left home, we should have been well + rewarded for our long voyage.</p> + + <p>At six o'clock we were dressed and packed. Breakfast + followed at half-past, and at seven we were prepared for a + start. Our kind, active host, and his wife and baby, all came + out to see us off. The canter over the dewy grass, in the fresh + morning air, was most invigorating. It was evident that no one + had passed along the road since Saturday night, for we picked + up several waifs and strays dropped in the dark on our way + up—a whip, a stirrup, mackintosh hood, &c.</p> + + <p>By half-past ten we had reached the 'Half-way House,' where + we were not expected so early, and where we had ample + opportunity to observe the native ways of living, while waiting + for our midday meal—an uninteresting mess of stewed fowl + and <i>taro</i>, washed down with weak tea. After it was over I + made an unsuccessful attempt to induce the woman of the house + to part with her orange-coloured <i>lei</i>. I bought some + <i>tappa</i> and mallets, however, with some of the markers + used in colouring the cloth, and a few gourds and calabashes, + forming part of the household furniture. While the horses were + being saddled preparatory to our departure, Mabelle and I went + to another cottage close by, to see the mother of the baby that + had been born while we were here on Saturday. She was not at + home; but we afterwards found her playing cards with some of + her friends in a neighbouring hut. Quite a large party of many + natives were gathered together, not the least cheerful of whom + was the young mother whose case had interested me so much.</p> + + <p>The rest of the ride down to Hilo was as dull and monotonous + as our upward journey had been, although, in order to enable us + to get over it as quickly as possible, fresh horses had been + sent to meet us. At last we reached the pier, where we found + the usual little crowd waiting to see us off. The girls who had + followed us when we first <span class="pagenum">Page + 273<a name="Page_273" + id="Page_273"></a></span>landed came forward shyly when they + thought they were unobserved, and again encircled me with + <i>leis</i> of gay and fragrant flowers. The custom of + decorating themselves with wreaths on every possible + occasion is in my eyes a charming one, and I like the + inhabitants of Polynesia for their love of flowers. They are + as necessary to them as the air they breathe, and I think + the missionaries make a mistake in endeavouring to repress + so innocent and natural a taste.</p> + + <p>The whole town was <i>en fête</i> to-day. Natives were + riding about in pairs, in the cleanest of bright cotton dresses + and the freshest of <i>leis</i> and garlands. Our own men from + the yacht contributed not a little to the gaiety of the scene. + They were all on shore, and the greater part of them were + galloping about on horseback, tumbling off, scrambling on + again, laughing, flirting, joking, and enjoying themselves + generally after a fashion peculiar to English sailors. As far + as we know the only evil result of all this merriment was that + the doctor received a good many applications for diachylon + plaster in the course of the evening, to repair various + 'abrasions of the cuticle,' as he expressed it.</p> + + <p>I think at least half the population of Hilo had been on + board the yacht in the course of the day, as a Christmas treat. + At last we took a boat and went off too, accompanied by Mr. + Lyman. The appearance of the 'Sunbeam' from the shore was very + gay, and as we approached it became more festive still. All her + masts were tipped with sugar-canes in bloom. Her stern was + adorned with flowers, and in the arms of the figure-head was a + large bouquet. She was surrounded with boats, the occupants of + which cheered us heartily as we rowed alongside. The gangway + was decorated with flowers, and surmounted by a triumphal arch, + on which were inscribed 'Welcome Home,' 'A Merry Christmas,' 'A + Happy New Year,' and other good wishes. The whole deck was + festooned with tropical plants and <span class="pagenum">Page + 274<a name="Page_274" + id="Page_274"></a></span>flowers, and the decorations of the + cabins were even more beautiful and elaborate. I believe all + hands had been hard at work ever since we left to produce + this wonderful effect, and every garden in Hilo had + furnished a contribution to please and surprise us on our + return.</p> + + <p>The choir from Hilo came out in boats in the evening, sang + all sorts of songs, sacred and secular, and cheered everybody + till they were hoarse. After this, having had a cold dinner, in + order to save trouble, and having duly drunk the health of our + friends at home, we all adjourned to the saloon, to assist in + the distribution of some Christmas presents, a ceremony which + afforded great delight to the children, and which was equally + pleasing to the elder people and to the crew, if one may judge + from their behaviour on the occasion.</p> + + <p>Then we sat on deck, gazing at the cloud of fire over + Kilauea, and wondering if the appearance of the crater could + ever be grander than it was last night, when we were standing + on its brim.</p> + + <p>So ended Christmas Day, 1876, at Hilo, in Hawaii. God grant + that there may be many more as pleasant for us in store in the + future!</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 275<a name="Page_275" + id="Page_275"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" + id="CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">HAWAIIAN SPORTS.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>In wrestling nimble, and in running + swift</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>In shooting steady, + and in swimming strong</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Well + made to strike, to leap, to throw, to + lift</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>And all the sports that + shepherds are among</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Tuesday, December 26th</i>.—We went ashore at eight + o'clock, after an early cup of coffee, and found Mr. Lyman + already waiting for us. Two baggage-mules were sent off with + the photographic apparatus, and all the materials for + breakfast, to the Rainbow Falls, where the children are looking + forward with intense glee to boiling their own kettle, poaching + eggs, and trying other cooking experiments.</p> + + <p>Before setting out for the Falls ourselves, we went to see + the national sport of surf-swimming, for their skill in which + the Hawaiians are so justly famed.</p> + + <p>The natives have many other games of which they are very + fond, and which they play with great skill, including + spear-throwing, transfixing an object with a dart, <i>kona</i>, + an elaborate kind of draughts, and <i>talu</i>, which consists + in hiding a small stone under one of five pieces of cloth, + placed in front of the players. One hides the stone, and the + others have to guess where it is; and it generally happens + that, however dexterously the hider may put his arm beneath the + cloth, and dodge about from one piece to another, a clever + player will be able to tell, by the movement of the muscles of + the upper part of his arm, when his fingers relax their hold of + the stone. Another game, called <i>parua</i>, is very like the + Canadian sport of 'tobogging,' only <span class="pagenum">Page + 276<a name="Page_276" + id="Page_276"></a></span>that it is carried on on the grass + instead of on the snow. The performers stand bolt upright on + a narrow plank, turned up in front, and steered with a sort + of long paddle. They go to the top of a hill or mountain, + and rush down the steep, grassy, sunburnt slopes at a + tremendous pace, keeping their balance in a wonderful + manner. There is also a very popular amusement, called + <i>pahé</i>, requiring a specially prepared smooth + floor, along which the javelins of the players glide like + snakes. On the same floor they also play at another game, + called <i>maita</i>, or <i>uru maita</i>. Two sticks, only a + few inches apart, are stuck into the ground, and at a + distance of thirty or forty yards the players strive to + throw a stone between them. The <i>uru</i> which they use + for the purpose is a hard circular stone, three or four + inches in diameter, and an inch in thickness at the edge, + but thicker in the middle.</p> + + <p>Mr. Ellis, in his 'Polynesian Researches,' states that + 'these stones are finely polished, highly valued, and carefully + preserved, being always oiled or wrapped up in native cloth + after having been used. The people are, if possible, more fond + of this game than of the <i>pahé</i>, and the + inhabitants of a district not unfrequently challenge the people + of the whole island, or the natives of one island those of all + the others, to bring a man who shall try his skill with some + favourite player of their own district or island. On such + occasions seven or eight thousand people, men and women, with + their chiefs and chiefesses, assemble to witness the sport, + which, as well as the <i>pahé</i>, is often continued + for hours together.'</p> + + <p>With bows and arrows they are as clever as all savages, and + wonderfully good shots, attempting many wonderful feats. They + are swift as deer, when they choose, though somewhat lazy and + indolent. All the kings and chiefs have been special adepts in + the invigorating pastime of surf-swimming, and the present + king's sisters are considered first-rate hands at it. The + performers begin by swimming out <span class="pagenum">Page + 277<a name="Page_277" + id="Page_277"></a></span> into the bay, and diving under the + huge Pacific rollers, pushing their surf-boards—flat + pieces of wood, about four feet long by two wide, pointed at + each end—edgewise before them. For the return journey + they select a large wave; and then, either sitting, + kneeling, or standing on their boards, rush in shorewards + with the speed of a racehorse, on the curling crest of the + monster, enveloped in foarn and spray, and holding on, as it + were, by the milk-white manes of their furious coursers. It + looked a most enjoyable amusement, and I should think that, + to a powerful swimmer, with plenty of pluck, the feat is not + difficult of accomplishment. The natives here are almost + amphibious. They played all sorts of tricks in the water, + some of the performers being quite tiny boys. Four strong + rowers took a whale-boat out into the worst surf, and then, + steering her by means of a large oar, brought her safely + back to the shore on the top of a huge wave.</p> + + <p>After the conclusion of this novel entertainment, we all + proceeded on horseback to the Falls, Baby going in front of + Tom, and Muriel riding with Mr. Freer. After a couple of miles + we dismounted, and had a short walk through grass and ferns to + a pretty double waterfall, tumbling over a cliff, about 100 + feet high, into a glassy pool of the river beneath. It fell in + front of a fern-filled black lava cavern, over which a rainbow + generally hangs. As it was too wet to sit on the grass after + the rain, we took possession of the verandah of a native house, + commanding a fine view of the bay and town of Hilo. The hot + coffee and eggs were a great success eventually, though the + smoke from the wood fire nearly suffocated us in the process of + cooking. Excellent also was some grey mullet, brought to us + alive, and cooked native fashion,—wrapped up in <i>ti</i> + leaves, and put into a hole in the ground.</p> + + <p>After taking a few photographs it was time to return; and we + next went to a pretty garden, which we had seen + <span class="pagenum">Page 278<a name="Page_278" + id="Page_278"></a></span>on the night of our arrival, and, + tying up our horses outside, walked across it to the banks + of the river. Here we found a large party assembled, + watching half the population of Hilo disporting themselves + in, upon, and beneath the water. They climbed the almost + perpendicular rocks on the opposite side of the stream, took + headers, and footers, and siders from any height under + five-and-twenty feet, dived, swam in every conceivable + attitude, and without any apparent exertion, deep under the + water, or upon its surface. But all this was only a + preparation for the special sight we had come to see. Two + natives were to jump from a precipice, 100 feet high, into + the river below, clearing on their way a rock which + projected some twenty feet from the face of the cliff, at + about the same distance from the summit. The two men, tall, + strong, and sinewy, suddenly appeared against the sky-line, + far above our heads, their long hair bound back by a wreath + of leaves and flowers, while another garland encircled their + waists. Having measured their distance with an eagle's + glance, they disappeared from our sight, in order to take a + run and acquire the necessary impetus. Every breath was held + for a moment, till one of the men reappeared, took a bound + from the edge of the rock, turned over in mid-air, and + disappeared feet foremost into the pool beneath, to emerge + almost immediately, and to climb the sunny bank as quietly + as if he had done nothing very wonderful. His companion + followed, and then the two clambered up to the twenty-feet + projection, to clear which they had had to take such a run + the first time, and once more plunged into the pool below. + The feat was of course an easier one than the first; but + still a leap of eighty feet is no light matter. A third + native, who joined them in this exploit, gave one quite a + turn as he twisted in his downward jump; but he also + alighted in the water feet foremost, and bobbed up again + directly, like a cork. He was quite a young man, and we + afterwards heard that he had broken several ribs + <span class="pagenum">Page 279<a name="Page_279" + id="Page_279"></a></span> not more than a year ago, and had + been laid up for six months in the hospital.</p> + + <p>We now moved our position a little higher up the river, to + the Falls, over which the men, gliding down the shallow rapids + above, in a sitting posture, allowed themselves to be carried. + It looked a pleasant and easy feat, and was afterwards + performed by many of the natives in all sorts of ways. Two or + three of them would hold each other's shoulders, forming a + child's train, or some would get on the backs of their + companions, while others descended singly in a variety of + attitudes. At last a young girl was also persuaded to attempt + the feat. She looked very pretty as she started, in her white + chemise and bright garland, and prettier still when she emerged + from the white foam beneath the fall, and swam along far below + the surface of the clear water, with her long black hair + streaming out behind her.</p> + + <p>No description can give you any idea what an animated and + extraordinary scene it was altogether. While our accounts were + being settled, preparatory to our departure, I occupied myself + in looking at some <i>kahilis</i> and feather <i>leis.</i> The + yellow ones, either of Oo or Mamo feathers, only found in this + island, are always scarce, as the use of them is a prerogative + of royalty and nobility. Just now it is almost impossible to + obtain one, all the feathers being '<i>tabu</i>,' to make a + royal cloak for Ruth, half-sister of Kamehameha V., and + governess of Hawaii. Mamo feathers are generally worth a dollar + a piece, and a good <i>lei</i> or loose necklace costs about + five hundred dollars. <i>Kahilis</i> are also an emblem of + rank, <span class="pagenum">Page 280<a name="Page_280" + id="Page_280"></a></span>though many people use them as + ornaments in their houses. They are rather like + feather-brooms, two or three feet long, and three or four + inches across, made of all sorts of feathers, tastefully + interwoven. I bought one, and a couple of ordinary + <i>leis</i>, which were all I could procure. But, alas! too + soon all was over, and time for us to go on board.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_294" + id="Illus_294"></a> <img src="images/t_294.jpg" + width="181" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Feather Necklace" + title="Illustration: Feather Necklace" /><br /> + <b>Feather Necklace</b><br /> + <a href="images/294.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>On our way off to the yacht we met one of the large double + canoes coming in under sail from a neighbouring island. It + consisted of two canoes lashed together, with a sort of basket + dropped into the water between them, to enable them to carry + their fish alive. They are not very common now, and we were + therefore fortunate in meeting with one. Mr. Lyman made the men + in charge turn her round, so as to afford us an opportunity of + thoroughly examining her. In the time of Kamehameha there was a + fleet of 10,000 of these canoes, and the king used to send them + out in the roughest weather, and make them perform all sorts of + manoeuvres.</p> + + <p>We found the yacht in the usual state of confusion + incidental to a fresh departure, but everything was soon + reduced to order, and off we started to steam and sail round + the north end of the island, but we could not afford time to + visit the place of Captain Cook's death and burial in + Keelakeakua Bay. I believe there is not a great deal to see, + however, and the spot is chiefly interesting from its + associations. For many years a copper plate, fixed to a + cocoa-nut tree, marked the spot where Cook fell, but this has + now been replaced by a monument, the cost of which was defrayed + by subscriptions at Honolulu. Maui is, I believe, a charming + place, containing many fine plantations, and several + gentlemen's estates, laid out in the English style. + Unfortunately, time forbids our accepting some invitations we + have received to visit the island, where a great many + interesting excursions may be made.</p> + + <p>At Kahoolaue there does not seem much to be seen. It was + purchased some years ago, and pays well as a sheep-run. + <span class="pagenum">Page 281<a name="Page_281" + id="Page_281"></a></span>Lauai, the next island, is scarcely + inhabited, and its scenery is not remarkable.</p> + + <p>A sad interest attaches to the island of Molokai, which is + situated midway between Maui and Oahu. It is the leper + settlement, and to it all the victims of this terrible, + loathsome, and incurable disease, unhappily so prevalent in the + Hawaiian archipelago, are sent, in order to prevent the spread + of the contagion. They are well cared for and looked after in + every way; but their life, separated as they inevitably are + from all they hold most dear, and with no prospect before them + but that of a slow and cruel death, must indeed be a miserable + one. In Molokai there are many tiny children, fatherless and + motherless, parents without children, husbands without wives, + wives without husbands, 'all condemned.' as Miss Bird says, 'to + watch the repulsive steps by which each of their doomed fellows + goes down to a loathsome death, knowing that by the same they + too must pass.' A French priest has nobly devoted himself to + the religious and secular instruction of the lepers, and up to + the present time has enjoyed complete immunity from the + disease; but even if he escapes this danger, he can + <i>never</i> return to his country and friends. When one thinks + what that implies, and to what a death in life he has condemned + himself for the sake of others, it seems impossible to doubt + that he will indeed reap a rich reward hereafter.</p> + + <p>At two o'clock we saw Diamond Head, the easternmost headland + of Oahu, rising from the sea. By four o'clock we were abreast + of it, and steaming along the coast. The cape itself rises + grandly from the midst of a grove of cocoa-nuts, and the shore + all along, with the sharp high mountains of the Pali as a + background, is fine and picturesque. A coral reef stretches far + into the sea, and outside this we lay waiting for a pilot to + take us into Honolulu Harbour.</p> + + <p>It was a long business mooring us by hawsers, from our stem + and stern, but we were at last safely secured in a + <span class="pagenum">Page 282<a name="Page_282" + id="Page_282"></a></span>convenient place, a short distance + from the shore, and where we should be refreshed by the sea + breeze and the land breeze alternately. It was six o'clock, + and nearly dark, when we reached the shore; the town seemed + entirely deserted; all the little wooden houses were shut + up, and there were no lights visible. The post-office was + closed, but it was a terrible blow to hear there were no + letters for us, though we still hoped that there might be + some at the British Consulate.</p> + + <p>After a short time we returned on board the yacht in time + for a late dinner. The first lieutenant of H.M.S. + 'Fantôme' came on board to pay us a visit during the + evening, and told us all the latest English and American news, + lending us some files of English papers—a great treat, + but no compensation for our disappointment about the + letters.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, December 28th</i>.—Tom and I went ashore + at seven o'clock to make arrangements for repairing our + mizen-sail. We soon found a sailmaker, who promised to set all + hands to work and complete the job as quickly as possible. + Being detained by a heavy shower of rain, we occupied the time + in a gossip about Honolulu and its sayings and doings. When the + shower was over, we walked through the town, which is clean and + tidy, being laid out in squares, after the American style. The + houses are all of wood, and generally have verandahs + overhanging the street. They are seldom more than one story + high, and nearly all have a little greenery about them.</p> + + <p>We returned to the yacht for breakfast, and, having heard + that no sharks ever came into the long, narrow bay, were able + to enjoy, in perfect peace of mind, the luxury of a bath + overboard. It is a great pity that in the tropics, where + bathing is such a delightful occupation, and where one might + swim and paddle about for hours without fear of getting cold, + it is often impossible even to enter the water for fear of the + sharks. The natives are such expert <span class="pagenum">Page + 283<a name="Page_283" + id="Page_283"></a></span> swimmers that they do not seem to + think much of this danger. As the shark turns on his back to + take a bite at them, they dive underneath him, and he snaps + his jaws on emptiness. In fact, sometimes the swimmer will + take advantage of the opportunity to stab his enemy as he + passes beneath him.</p> + + <p>Scarcely was breakfast over when we were inundated with + visitors, who kindly came to see what they could do for us to + make our stay agreeable. We lunched on shore, and afterwards + went to the new Government buildings and museum. From thence we + strolled to the various shops where 'curios' and photographs + are to be bought, and collected a goodly store, returning on + board the yacht to find more visitors.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_298" + id="Illus_298"></a> <img src="images/298.gif" + width="362" + height="400" + alt="Illustration: War Necklace" + title="Illustration: War Necklace" /><br /> + <b>War Necklace</b> <a name="FNanchor_13_13" + id="FNanchor_13_13"></a> <a href="#Footnote_13_13" + class="fnanchor">[13]</a> + </div> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_13_13" + id="Footnote_13_13"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> + The accompanying sketch is from a necklace that belonged + to King Kamehameha I., and was given to me by one of his + descendants.</p> + </div> + + <p>We lunched on shore, and afterwards went with Mr. + Chambré, navigating-lieutenant of the 'Fantôme,' + to the new Government buildings. There we found an excellent + English library, and an interesting collection of books printed + in English and Hawaiian, on alternate pages, including + alphabets, grammars, the old familiar nursery tales, &c. + There is also a good, though small museum, containing specimens + of beautiful corals, shells, seaweeds, and fossils; all the + ancient native weapons, such as bows, arrows, swords, and + spears—now, alas! no longer + procurable—sling-stones, and stones used in games, + back-scratchers, hair-ornaments made of sharks' teeth, + tortoise-shell cups and spoons, calabashes and bowls. There + were some most interesting though somewhat horrible necklaces + made of hundreds of braids of <span class="pagenum">Page + 284<a name="Page_284" + id="Page_284"></a></span>human hair cut from the heads of + victims slain by the chiefs themselves; from these braids + was suspended a monstrous hook carved from a large whale's + tooth, called a Paloola, regarded by the natives as a sort + of idol. There are models of ancient and modern + canoes—the difference between which is not very + great,—paddles, inlaid with mother-of-pearl, old + war-masks, and dresses still in use in the less frequented + islands, anklets of human teeth, and many other things far + too numerous to mention. The most interesting of all were, + perhaps, the old feather war cloaks, like the ancient + <i>togas</i> of the Romans. They are made of thousands of + yellow, red, and black feathers, of the <i>oo, niamo,</i> + and <i>eine</i>, taken singly and fastened into a sort of + network of string, so as to form a solid fabric, like the + richest velvet or plush, that glitters like gold in the + sunlight. The helmets, made of the same feathers, but worked + on to a frame of perfect Grecian shape, similar to those + seen in the oldest statuary or on the Elgin marbles, are + even more artistic and elegant. Whence came the idea and + design? Untutored savages could scarcely have evolved them + out of their own heads. Some element of civilisation, and of + highly artistic civilisation too, must + <span class="pagenum">Page 285<a name="Page_285" + id="Page_285"></a></span>surely have existed among them at + some remote period of their history.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_299" + id="Illus_299"></a> <img src="images/t_299.jpg" + width="240" + height="154" + alt="Illustration: Ancient War Masks and Costumes from the Museum at Honolulu" + title="Illustration: Ancient War Masks and Costumes from the Museum at Honolulu" /> + <br /> + <b>Ancient War Masks and Costumes<br /> + from the Museum at Honolulu</b><br /> + <a href="images/299.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Friday, December 29th</i>.—We had a bathe overboard + early this morning. The children were ashore at half-past nine, + to go and spend the day at a friend's, at the top of the Nuuanu + Avenue, on the road to the Pali.</p> + + <p>The King's two sisters came to call on us in the morning + with their respective husbands. We had a great many visitors + all the morning, till it was time to go to lunch; after which + we went to call on the Princess Likelike, who drove me to + Waikiki, to see her sister, the Princess Kamakaeha, at her + country residence, a very large native grass house, with an + enormous verandah. Both ladies are married to Englishmen, and + live partly in English style. Inside there is a spacious + drawing-room, well furnished, with pictures and nick-nacks, + where we spent a pleasant half-hour in the gloaming. The + sunset, over Diamond Head, and the sea, which was just visible + through the cocoa-nut trees, was splendid. Both the Princesses + were as kind as they could be. The royal family have formed + quite a little colony here. The King's house is next door, and + that of the Prince Leleiohoku is not far off. They all come + here in the most unpretending way possible, and amuse + themselves by fishing and bathing.</p> + + <p>It had been quite dark for some time, when the Princess + Likelike dropped me at the hotel at half-past seven, where I + found Tom and Mr. Freer waiting for me. We had a quiet dinner, + and then went for a stroll. It was a fine clear night, with an + almost full moon. The streets were full of equestrians, riding + about in pairs, for there was to be a great riding party up to + the Pali to-night, the <i>rendezvous</i> for which was in Emma + Square. Every lady had to select and bring with her an + attendant cavalier<a name="FNanchor_14_14" + id="FNanchor_14_14">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_14_14" + class="fnanchor">[14]</a></p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_14_14" + id="Footnote_14_14"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> + The event was thus announced in the 'Hawaiian + Gazette:'—'THE LAST CHANCE.—We are informed + that a riding party will come off on Friday evening, + when all the young ladies who desire to participate are + expected to be on hand, each with the cavalier whom she + may invite. As leap-year is drawing to a close it is + expected that this opportunity will be extensively + embraced. Place of rendezvous, Emma Square: time, + seven-thirty; Luminary for the occasion, a full + moon.'</p> + </div> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 286<a name="Page_286" + id="Page_286"></a></span>There are no side-saddles in any of + these islands; all the ladies ride like men, and sit their + horses very well. They wear long riding-dresses, cleverly + and elegantly adapted to the exigencies of the situation, + generally of some light material, and of <i>very</i> bright + colours. The effect of a large party galloping along, with + wreaths and garlands in their hats and necks, and with their + long skirts floating in the wind, is therefore picturesque + and strange in the extreme.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, December 30th</i>.—Mabelle, Muriel, and + I, were up early, and went off to the coral-reef before seven + in the 'Flash.' It is very beautiful, but not so fine as those + we have already seen at Tahiti and other South Sea Islands. We + collected four or the distinct varieties of coral, and saw many + marvellous creatures swimming about or sticking to the rocks. + There were several canoes full of natives fishing, who appeared + highly amused when we ran aground on a coral tree, as happened + more than once. It was a pleasant way of spending the early + morning in the bright sunshine, peering into the dark blue and + light green depths below.</p> + + <p>Breakfast was ready by the time we returned on board, and + soon afterwards I went on shore to pay some visits and to do + some shopping. We went first to the fish-market, which + presented a most animated scene, owing not only to the + abundance of the dead produce of air, earth, and sea, which it + contained, but to the large number of gaily attired + purchasers.</p> + + <p>Saturday is a half-holiday in Oahu, and all the plantation + and mill hands came galloping into Honolulu on horseback, + chattering and laughing, dressed in the brightest colours, and + covered with flowers. The latter are not so + <span class="pagenum">Page 287<a name="Page_287" + id="Page_287"></a></span>plentiful nor so beautiful as in + Tahiti, but still, to our English eyes, they appear very + choice. For fruit, too, we have been spoilt in the South + Seas. The fish-market here, however, is unrivalled.</p> + + <p>Fish—raw or cooked—is the staple food of the + inhabitants, and almost everybody we saw had half-a-dozen or + more brilliant members of the finny tribe, wrapped up in fresh + green banana leaves, ready to carry home. Shrimps are abundant + and good. They are caught both in salt and fresh water, and the + natives generally eat them alive, putting them into their + mouths, ana either letting them hop down their throats, or + crushing them between their teeth while they are still + wriggling about. It looks a very nasty thing to do, but, after + all, it is not much worse than our eating oysters alive.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_302" + id="Illus_302"></a> <img src="images/t_302.jpg" + width="240" + height="203" + alt="Illustration: Chalcedon Imperator" + title="Illustration: Chalcedon Imperator" /><br /> + <b>Chalcedon Imperator</b><br /> + <a href="images/302.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>From the fish-market we went to the prison, a large and + apparently admirably managed establishment, built of stone, and + overlooking the harbour. After a pleasant drive along shady + fragrant roads, we returned to Emma Square, to hear the + excellent performance of the Saturday afternoon + <span class="pagenum">Page 288<a name="Page_288" + id="Page_288"></a></span>band. There was a good assemblage + of people, on horseback, in carriages, and on foot, and + crowds of children, all more or less white, languid, and + sickly-looking. Poor mites! I suppose the climate is too hot + for European constitutions. Still, they abound among the + foreigners, while the natives are gradually, but surely, + dying out. Among the whole royal family there is only one + child, a dear little girl of rather more than a year old. + Princess Kauilani ('Sent from Heaven') she is always called, + though she has a very long string of additional names. She + is heiress-presumptive to the throne, and is thought a good + deal of by everybody. Among twenty of the highest chiefs' + families there is only one baby. On the other hand, all the + foreign consuls, ministers, missionaries, and other white + residents, appear to have an average of at least half a + dozen in each family.</p> + + <p>After the performance was over, we walked to the Princess + Likelike's house, where we were entertained at a <i>poi</i> + supper. The garden was illuminated, the band played and a choir + sang alternately, while everybody sat out in the verandah, or + strolled about the garden, or did what they liked best. Prince + Leleiohoku took me in to supper, which was served in the native + fashion, in calabashes and on leaves, laid on mats on the + floor, in the same manner as the feast at Tahiti. The walls of + the dining-room were made of palm-leaves and bananas, and the + roof was composed of the standards of the various members of + the royal family, gracefully draped. At one end of the long + table, where the Prince and I sat, there was his special royal + standard, as heir-apparent, and just behind us were stationed a + couple of women, with two large and handsome <i>kahilis</i>, + which they waved incessantly backwards and forwards. The viands + were much the same as at Tahiti—raw seaweed, which was + eaten with each mouthful, being substituted for the chopped + cocoa-nut and salt-water. The carved <i>koa</i> bowls, which + were in constant requisition as finger-glasses, + <span class="pagenum">Page 289<a name="Page_289" + id="Page_289"></a></span> were specially elegant and + useful-looking articles. <i>Poi</i> is generally eaten from + a bowl placed between two people, by dipping three fingers + into it, giving them a twirl round, and then sucking them. + It sounds rather nasty; but, as a matter of fact, it is so + glutinous a mixture that you really only touch the particles + that stick to your fingers. The latter you wash after each + mouthful, so that there is nothing so very dreadful about it + after all. There was a quantity of raw fish, which I did not + touch, but which some of our party thought most excellent, + besides dried and cooked fish, which seemed very good, fried + candle-nuts, baked pig, and many other delicacies. We could + get however, nothing to drink. After supper, we returned to + the house, where we found an abundance of champagne and + other wines, cakes, and biscuits.</p> + + <p>About twelve o'clock we thought it was time to say good-bye, + as it was Saturday night. Beneath a brilliant full moon the + drive to the wharf and row off in the boat were delightful.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, December 31st</i>.—I was on deck at six + o'clock, and saw what I had often heard about—a team of + twenty oxen, driven by a man in a cart, drawing by means of a + rope, about a quarter of a mile in length, a large ship through + the opening in the reef, the man and cattle being upon the + coral<a name="FNanchor_15_15" + id="FNanchor_15_15">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_15_15" + class="fnanchor">[15]</a></p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_15_15" + id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label"> + [15]</span></a> The following notice appeared in the + <i>Hawaiian Gazette</i> recently: 'TO BE + REPAIRED.—That staunch little craft the "Pele," which + Capt. Brown has for so long a time successfully commanded, + is now being hauled up for the purpose of repairs. She will + probably be laid up for six or eight weeks, and in the + meantime the antique plan of towing vessels in and out of + the harbour with teams of oxen on the reef will be + resumed.'</p> + </div> + + <p>About half-past eight Mabelle and I were just going + overboard for a swim, when I thought I saw the upper fin of an + old familiar enemy, and directly afterwards the cry was echoed + all over the ship, 'A shark, a shark!' It was a + <span class="pagenum">Page 290<a name="Page_290" + id="Page_290"></a></span>ground shark, and very nearly + aground in the shallow water. They say this is the worst + kind of all, and on making inquiry I was told that the + safest way to enjoy a dip here is to bathe with a number of + other people. The splashing and noise made by a whole ship's + company frighten the sharks away. This discovery puts an end + therefore to our hopes of enjoying an occasional peaceful + bath.</p> + + <p>We went to eleven o'clock service at the cathedral. It is a + pleasant small building, beautifully cool, and well adapted to + this climate. The Bishop was unfortunately away, but the + service was well performed.</p> + + <p>Later, Tom read the evening service to the men, and we + afterwards landed and dined late at the hotel; so late, indeed, + that we could hardly get anything to eat, and they began to + shut up the room and put out the lights before we had half + done. Luckily, we were a large party, and an indignant protest + and threatened appeal to the landlord brought the Chinese + waiters to their senses, and induced them to grant us half an + hour's law. On our way back to the boat, the streets looked + much more lively than they had hitherto done, being full of + people returning from rides, drives, and excursions into the + country. As a rule, directly after dark not a creature is to be + seen about the streets, for every one disappears in the most + mysterious manner.</p> + + <p>We went on board, and sat in the calm moonlight, thinking + and talking over the events of the year, whose end was so + swiftly approaching, and wondering what its successor may have + in store for us. So ends, with all its joys and sorrows, its + pleasures and pains, its hopes and fears, for us, the now old + year, 1876.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 291<a name="Page_291" + id="Page_291"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" + id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">HONOLULU—DEPARTURE FOR JAPAN.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>Years following years, steal something every + day</i>;<br /></span> <span><i>At last they steal us + from ourselves away</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Monday, January 1st, 1877</i>.—At midnight we were + awakened by our ship's bell, and that of the 'Fantôme,' + being struck violently sixteen times. For the moment I could + not imagine what it meant, and thought it must be an alarm of + fire; indeed, it was not until Tom and I reached the deck, + where we found nearly all the ship's company assembled at the + top of the companion, and were greeted with wishes for 'A happy + New Year, and many of them,' that we quite realised that + nothing serious was the matter. Soon the strains of sweet + music, proceeding from the Honolulu choirs, which had come out + in boats to serenade us, fell upon our ears The choristers + remained alongside for more than an hour, singing English and + American sacred and secular hymns and songs, and then went off + to the 'Fantôme,' where they repeated the performance. + The moon shone brightly; not a ripple disturbed the surface of + the water; the cocoa-trees at Waikiki, and the distant + mountains near the Pali, were all clearly defined against the + dark blue sky. It was altogether a romantic and delicious + scene, and we found it difficult to tear ourselves away from + the sweet sounds which came floating over the sea.</p> + + <p>When I again went on deck, at half-past six, there was a + large double canoe close to the yacht, crowded with people. It + was difficult to make out what they were doing, for + <span class="pagenum">Page 292<a name="Page_292" + id="Page_292"></a></span>they appeared to be sitting on a + great heap of something, piled up between the two canoes. + Our sailors suggested that it must be 'some sort of a New + Year's set out.' I ordered the 'Flash' to be got ready, and + went with the children to make a closer investigation; and, + as we approached, we could see that the pile that had + puzzled us was a huge fishing-net. The tide here is very + uncertain; but as soon as the water is low enough, they + stretch the long net right across the narrow mouth of the + harbour, and so secure an enormous quantity of fish of + various kinds. It was a really good New Year's haul, and + provided a hearty meal for a great many people.</p> + + <p>Mabelle and I went at twelve o'clock to the Queen's New + Year's reception, held in the other wing of the palace. Having + driven through the pretty gardens, we were received at the + entrance by the Governor, and ushered through two reception + rooms into the royal presence. The Queen was dressed in a + European court-dress, of blue and white material, with the + Hawaiian Order of the Garter across her breast. Two maids of + honour were also in court-dress. Of the other ladies, some were + in evening, some in morning dress, some with bonnets and some + without; but their costumes were all made according to the + European fashion, except that of her Highness Ruth, the + Governess of Hawaii, who looked wonderfully well in a rich + white silk native dress, trimmed with white satin. She had a + necklace of orange-coloured <i>oo</i> feathers round her neck, + and dark yellow alamanda flowers in her hair. This native + costume is a most becoming style of dress, especially to the + chiefs and chiefesses, who are all remarkably tall and + handsome, with a stately carriage and dignified manner. The + Queen stood in front of the throne, on which were spread the + royal robes, a long mantle of golden feathers, without speck or + blemish. On each side stood two men, dressed in black, wearing + frock-coats, and capes of red, black, and yellow feathers over + their shoulders, and chimney-pot hats on their + <span class="pagenum">Page 293<a name="Page_293" + id="Page_293"></a></span>heads. In their hands they held two + enormous <i>kahilis</i> of black <i>oo</i> feathers, with + handsome tortoise-shell and ivory handles. They were at + least eight feet high altogether, and the feathers were + about six inches across.</p> + + <p>The Princess presented Mabelle and me to her Majesty, and we + had a short conversation through a lady interpreter. It is + always an embarrassing thing to carry on a conversation in this + way, especially when you find yourself in the midst of a square + formed by a large crowd of ladies, who you fancy are all gazing + at you, the one stranger present, and I was glad when fresh + people arrived, and her Majesty's attention was claimed + elsewhere.</p> + + <p>Queen Kapiolani is a nice-looking woman, with a very + pleasing expression of countenance. She is the granddaughter of + the heroic Princess Kapiolani, who, when the worship and fear + of the goddess Pélé were at their height, walked + boldly up to the crater of Kilauea, in defiance of the warnings + and threats of the high-priestess of the idolatrous rites, + proclaiming her confidence in the power of her God, the God of + the Christians, to preserve her. This act did much to assist in + the establishment of Christianity in the Island of Hawaii, and + to shake the belief of the native worshippers of + Pélé in the power of the fearful goddess.</p> + + <p>The Princess showed me round the room which contains the + portraits of the kings and queens of the Sandwich Islands for + many generations, the early ones attired in their feather + capes, the later ones dressed in European costumes. Most of + them were the work of native artists, but the portraits of + Kamehameha II. and his queen were painted, during their visit + to England, by a good artist. Their Majesties are depicted in + the height of the fashion of the day, the king wearing a blue + coat and brass buttons, with many orders on his breast, the + queen having on a very short-waisted, tight-fitting white satin + dress, a turban surmounted by a tremendous plume of white + feathers, and a pearl necklace and bracelets: rather a trying + costume for <span class="pagenum">Page 294<a name="Page_294" + id="Page_294"></a></span>a handsome woman with a dark + complexion and portly figure. They both died in England, and + their remains were brought back here for burial, in H.M.S. + 'Blonde,' commanded by Lord Byron. There was also a portrait + of Admiral Thomas, whose memory is highly reverenced here + for the happy way in which he succeeded in terminating the + disputes arising out of our claim to the island in 1843, and + in restoring King Kamehameha III. to his own again.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_309" + id="Illus_309"></a> <img src="images/t_309.jpg" + width="240" + height="194" + alt="Illustration: Feathered Cloak and Helmets" + title="Illustration: Feathered Cloak and Helmets" /><br /> + <b>Feathered Cloak and Helmets</b><br /> + <a href="images/309.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>The collection likewise included excellent portraits of + Louis Philippe and Napoleon III. Curiously enough, each of + these was sent off from France to the Sandwich Islands, by way + of Cape Horn, while the original was in the zenith of his power + and fame; and each reached its destination after the original + had been deposed and had fled to England for refuge.</p> + + <p>But the most interesting object of all was still to + come—the real feather cloak, cape, and girdle of the + Kamehamehas, <span class="pagenum">Page 295<a name="Page_295" + id="Page_295"></a></span>not generally to be seen, except at + a coronation or christening, but which the Princess + Kamakaeha, in her capacity of Mistress of the Robes, had + kindly ordered to be put out for my inspection. The cloak, + which is now the only one of the kind in existence, is about + eleven feet long by five broad, and is composed of the + purest yellow, or rather golden, feathers, which, in the + sunlight, are perfectly gorgeous, as they have a peculiar + kind of metallic lustre, quite independent of their + brilliant colour.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_310" + id="Illus_310"></a> <img src="images/t_310.jpg" + width="240" + height="184" + alt="Illustration: The Pali-Oahu" + title="Illustration: The Pali-Oahu" /><br /> + <b>The Pali-Oahu</b><br /> + <a href="images/310.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>On leaving the palace I had intended to get some lunch at + the hotel, but found that establishment was closed to the + general public, and was in the possession of a native teetotal + society; so I was obliged to return to the yacht. At half-past + three, however, we all went ashore again, and set out on + horseback, a large party, for an excursion to the Pali, the + children, servants, and provisions preceding us in a light + two-horse American wagon. We rode through the Nuuanu Avenue, + and then up the hills, along a moderately good road, for about + seven miles and a half. This, <span class="pagenum">Page + 296<a name="Page_296" + id="Page_296"></a></span>brought us into a narrow gorge in + the midst of the mountains, from which we emerged on the + other side of the central range of hills, forming the + backbone of the island. The view from this point was + beautiful, though I think that the morning would be a better + time to enjoy it, as, with a setting sun, the landscape was + all in shadow. The change of temperature, too, after the + heat of Honolulu, was quite astonishing, considering the + short distance we had come—about eight miles only. The + carriage could not go quite to the top of the mountain, and + after descending a short distance to where it had been left, + we dismounted and spread our dinner on the ground; but + darkness overtook us before we had finished. Matches and + lamps had of course been forgotten; so that the business of + packing up was performed under circumstances of great + difficulty. The ride down, in the light of the almost full + moon, was delightful.</p> + + <p>We were on board by half-past seven, and went ashore to a + ball at nine o'clock. The dance took place in the large room of + the Hawaiian Hotel, and was a great success. The Royal band + played for us, and there was neither stuffiness nor crowding, + nor were there any regulations as to dress, gentlemen and + ladies coming in evening or morning dress, as it suited them + best. The Governor and most of the English present, including + our own party, wore evening dress, and the officers of the + 'Fantôme' were in uniform. Every door and window was + open, there was a large verandah to sit in, a garden to stroll + about in between the dances, and an abundance of delicious iced + lemonade—very different from the composition thus named + which is generally met with in London assemblies—to + drink. At half-past twelve, when people were beginning to + disperse, we took our departure, Captain Long taking us off to + the yacht in his boat.</p> + + <p>There is to be another ball on Thursday night, for which + everybody is most anxious that we should stay, as it + <span class="pagenum">Page 297<a name="Page_297" + id="Page_297"></a></span>is to be rather a large affair. In + order that you may see the Hawaiian fashion of sending out + cards, I copy the form of invitation we received:—</p> + + <table summary="Hawaiian invitation" + frame="box" + rules="none" + cellpadding="2" + width="80%"> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"><i>The pleasure of the Company of Mr. + and Mrs. Thos. Brassey is requested at a Subscription + Ball, at the Hawaiian Hotel,</i></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td colspan="3" + align="center"><b>ON THURSDAY EVENING, JANUARY 4, + 1877, AT 8 O'CLOCK.</b></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td align="left"> + <i> Respectfully,</i></td> + + <td></td> + + <td align="right"><i>H. A. + Widemann, </i><br /> + <b>For the Committee.</b></td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td colspan="3" + align="center"><i>Mrs. Jas. Makee and Mrs. J. S. + McGrew will kindly act as matrons of the + evening.</i></td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p><i>Tuesday, January 2nd</i>.—At eleven o'clock, the + King, who was rather better, went on board the 'Fantôme,' + saw the men at quarters, and witnessed the firing of a couple + of shots at a target, and shortly before twelve paid us a + visit, accompanied by the Prince Leleiohoku and others. His + Majesty is a tall, fine-looking man, with pleasant manners, and + speaks English perfectly and fluently. He and the Prince + visited and examined every corner of the yacht, and looked, I + think, at almost every object on board. The pictures, + curiosities, engines, and our various little contrivances for + economising space, seemed to interest them the most. The + inspection occupied at least an hour and a half; and when it + was over, we had a long chat on deck on various subjects. The + Prince of Wales's visit to India, and the Duke of Edinburgh's + voyage round the world, were much discussed, I think the King + would like to use them as a precedent, and see a little more of + the world himself. His voyage to, and stay in America, he + thoroughly enjoyed.</p> + + <p>It was two o'clock before our visitors left; and a quarter + of an hour <span class="pagenum">Page 298<a name="Page_298" + id="Page_298"></a></span> later the Queen and her sister + arrived. Her Majesty and her sister made quite as minute an + inspection of the yacht as her royal consort and his brother + had done before them. We had arranged to be 'at home' to all + our kind friends in Honolulu at four o'clock, at which hour + precisely the Governor sent the Royal band on board to + enliven the proceedings. Soon our other visitors began to + arrive; but the Queen appeared to be so well amused that she + did not leave until five o'clock. By-half-past six, the last + of our guests (over 150 in number) had said farewell, and + there only remained the band to be shown round and feasted + after their labours. Tom went on board the 'Fantôme' + to dine, and to meet the British, French, German, and + American representatives. We went to the hotel; and I must + say that I never in my life felt more thoroughly worn out + than I did that night, after standing about and receiving + and entertaining all the day.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, January 3rd</i>.—This was sure to be a + disagreeable day, since it was to be the concluding one of our + short stay in this pleasant place. The final preparations for a + long voyage had also to be made; stores, water, and live stock + to be got on board, bills to be paid, and adieux to be made to + kind friends.</p> + + <p>I was on deck at six o'clock, in order to take some + photographs and to stow away the coral, shells, curiosities, + and presents of various kinds, that the King, Queen, Prince and + Princess, as well as other kind friends, had sent us. Before + seven the yacht was surrounded by boats, and the deck was quite + impassable, so encumbered was it with all sorts of lumber, + waiting to be stowed away, until the boats could be hoisted on + board and secured for the voyage. The large mizen-sail, which + had just been repaired and sent on board, looked enormous as it + lay on the deck, surrounded by hen-coops, sheep, geese, sacks + of coal, and baskets and parcels of every size and shape. One + really began to <span class="pagenum">Page + 299<a name="Page_299" + id="Page_299"></a></span> wonder whether space could + possibly be found on board for such a miscellaneous + collection. Several visitors, who had been unable to come + yesterday, arrived in the midst of the confusion. They must + have carried away in their minds a different impression of + the yacht from what they would have done had they seen her + looking as trim and smart as she did yesterday. It could + not, however, be helped; for the departure of a small + vessel, with forty people on board, on a voyage of a month's + duration, is a matter requiring considerable + preparation.</p> + + <p>At eleven o'clock we landed and went to see the interior of + the Queen's Hospital. It is a fine and well-kept building, + containing, at the time of our visit, about ninety patients, + the men occupying the lower, the women the upper story. Each + ward is tastefully decorated with bouquets, and the name is + written up in bright mauve bougainvillea or scarlet hibiscus, + tacked on to white calico. Many of the convalescents wore + wreaths and garlands of flowers, and even those in bed had a + few beside them, or in some cases a single spray laid on the + coverlet. The effect was bright and cheerful; and it seemed a + kind and sensible idea to endeavour to gratify, instead of to + repress, the instinctive love of flowers universally felt by + the natives of these and of the South Sea Islands.</p> + + <p>From the hospital we went to pay farewell visits, to lunch + at the hotel, and to settle sundry bills. At three we were to + go to the Royal Mausoleum. This was a special privilege, and, I + believe, the greatest compliment that has been paid to us + anywhere. No foreigners are allowed to enter, except admirals + on the station; and very few inhabitants of Honolulu have ever + seen the interior. The King has one key, the Dowager Queen Emma + another, and the Minister of the Interior the third.</p> + + <p>On our way up the hill to the Mausoleum, there was a funeral + going on, very much after the style of an Irish wake in one of + the dwellings of the poorer class. The house was decorated with + flags, and was crowded <span class="pagenum">Page + 300<a name="Page_300" + id="Page_300"></a></span> with people, all dressed in black, + and generally with bright yellow <i>leis</i> over their + heads and necks. They had evidently come from some distance, + judging by the number of carts and wagons drawn up outside + the door. Several people were sitting in an upper verandah. + The corpse was laid out in the lower room, facing the road, + as we could see through the open windows and door. It was + surrounded by mourners, and four women were waving large + <i>kahilis</i> slowly backwards and forwards in front of + it.</p> + + <p>The Princess herself met us at the Mausoleum, which is a + small but handsome stone Gothic building, situated above the + Nuuanu Avenue, on the road to the Pali. It commands a fine view + over land and sea, and the gentle breezes waft through the open + windows sweet scents from the many fragrant trees and flowers + by which it is surrounded. There lay the coffins of all the + kings of Hawaii, their consorts, and their children, for many + generations past. The greater part were of polished <i>koa</i> + wood, though some were covered with red velvet ornamented with + gold. Many of them appeared to be of an enormous size; for, as + I have already observed, the chiefs of these islands have + almost invariably been men of large and powerful frames. The + bones of Kamehameha I. were in a square oak chest. At the foot + of the coffin of Kamehameha IV. there were two immense + <i>kahilis</i> about twelve feet high, one of rose-coloured, + the other of black feathers, with tortoise-shell handles. The + remains of King Luna'ilo are not here, having been buried just + outside the native church in the town. In the vestibule to the + tombs of the kings rests the coffin of Mr. Wylie, described as + 'the greatest European benefactor of the Hawaiian people.' A + ship now in the harbour bears his name, and one constantly + meets with proofs of the respect and reverence in which his + name is held.</p> + + <p>The Princess drove us down to the wharf, where we said + good-bye to her with feelings of the greatest regret. I cannot + express the sorrow <span class="pagenum">Page + 301<a name="Page_301" + id="Page_301"></a></span> that we all feel at leaving the + many kind friends we have met with in 'dear Honolulu,' as + Muriel calls it. But the farewells were at last over, the + anchor was weighed, and the yacht, which was by this time + once more in apple-pie order, began slowly to move ahead. + Suddenly we heard shouts from the shore, and saw a boat + pursuing us in hot haste. We stopped, and received on board + a basket of beautiful ferns and other parcels from different + friends. A second boat was then seen coming off to us, which + contained a fine dish of delicious honey and some flowers. + The order to go ahead again was scarcely given, before a + third boat, in, if possible, hotter haste than the two + previous ones, put off after us, bringing some things the + laundress had forgotten.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_316" + id="Illus_316"></a> <img src="images/t_316.jpg" + width="240" + height="202" + alt="Illustration: ZEUS CILIARIS" + title="Illustration: ZEUS CILIARIS" /><br /> + <b>ZEUS CILIARIS</b><br /> + <a href="images/316.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>Now we are fairly off; and now surely the last link that + binds us to the shore is broken. But no! there are farewell + signals and hearty cheers yet to come from the officers and men + of the 'Fantôme;' and, still further out, on the top of + the tiny lighthouse at the mouth of the narrow passage through + the reef, stand other friends, cheering and waving their + handkerchiefs. They had rowed out thither, being + <span class="pagenum">Page 302<a name="Page_302" + id="Page_302"></a></span> determined to give us really + <i>the</i> parting cheer, and till the shades of twilight + fell we could see their white handkerchiefs fluttering, and + hear their voices borne on the evening breeze, as we + meandered slowly through the tortuous channels into deep + water.</p> + + <p>Once outside we found there was plenty of wind and a heavy + roll, which sent me quickly to bed.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 303<a name="Page_303" + id="Page_303"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" + id="CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">HONOLULU TO YOKOHAMA.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>As slow our ship her foamy + track</i><br /></span> <span><i>Against the wind was + cleaving</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Her trembling + pennant still look'd back</i><br /></span> <span><i>To + that dear isle 'twas leaving</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Thursday, January 4th</i>.—It was very rough, but + fortunately the wind came from a favourable quarter. Sorry as + we all were to bid farewell to these charming islands, I could + not help rejoicing that we had picked up a fresh fair wind so + unexpectedly soon.</p> + + <p>While we were at Honolulu a regular epidemic of influenza + prevailed in the place, affecting both man and beast. This is + often the case during the prevalence of the south wind, which + blew, more or less, during the whole of our stay. We none of us + suffered from the malady at the time, but now nearly everybody + on board is affected, and some very severely.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, January 5th</i>.—The fresh fair breeze + still continues. At noon we had sailed 240 knots. The head-sea + we could dispense with, as it makes us all very uncomfortable. + Muriel, Baby, the three maids, and several of the crew, are ill + to-day with influenza, and I have a slight touch of it, so I + suppose it will go right through the ship. Towards the evening + the breeze increased to a gale.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, January 6th</i>.—The gale increased + during the night, and the head-sea became heavier. There was a + good deal of rain in the course of the day. The wind dropped + about sunset, and was succeeded by intervals of calm, with + occasional sharp squalls. Baby was very + <span class="pagenum">Page 304<a name="Page_304" + id="Page_304"></a></span> poorly all day, but seemed better + at night. We have now regularly settled down to our sea life + again, and, if only the children recover, I hope to get + through a good deal of reading and writing between this and + Japan. At present they occupy all my time and attention, but + I think, like the weather, they have now taken a turn for + the better.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, January 7th</i>.—A very rough and + disagreeable day, with much rain. All the morning we rolled + about, becalmed, in a heavy swell. Steam was ordered at + half-past twelve, but before it was up the fair wind had + returned, so the fires were put out. We had the Litany at + eleven, and a short service, without a sermon, at four.</p> + + <p>Baby was <i>very</i> ill all night. Everything was shut up + on account of the torrents of rain, so that the heat was almost + insufferable, and we tossed and tumbled about in the most + miserable manner.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, January 8th</i>.—All the early part of the + morning we were in the greatest anxiety about Baby; she could + hardly draw her breath, and lay in her cot, or on her nurse's + lap, almost insensible, and quite blue in the face, in spite of + the application of mustard, hot water, and every remedy we + could think of. The influenza with her has taken the form of + bronchitis and pleurisy. The other children are still ailing. + Heavy squalls of wind and rain, and continuous rolling, + prevailed throughout the day.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, January 9th</i>.—The wind fell light, and + the weather improved; but we tumbled about more than ever. The + thermometer in the nursery stood at 90°. The children are a + shade better.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, January 10th</i>.—Very hot, and a flat + calm. Steam was up at 7.30 a.m. Mabelle is convalescent; Muriel + not so well; Baby certainly better. In the afternoon one of the + boiler-tubes burst. It was repaired, and we went on steaming. + In the evening it burst again, and was once more repaired, + without causing a long stoppage. <span class="pagenum">Page + 305<a name="Page_305" + id="Page_305"></a></span></p> + + <p>(<i>Thursday, January 11th</i>, had no existence for us, as, + in the process of crossing the 180th meridian, we have lost a + day.)</p> + + <p><i>Friday, January 12th</i>.—Wednesday morning with us + was Tuesday evening with people in England, and we were thus + twelve hours in advance of them. To-day the order of things is + reversed, and we are now twelve hours behind our friends at + home. Having quitted one side of the map of the world + (according to Mercator's projection), and entered upon the + other half, we begin to feel that we are at last really + 'homeward bound.'</p> + + <p>At four a.m. Powell woke us with the announcement that the + boiler-tube had again burst, and that we had consequently + ceased steaming. Letting off steam, and blowing out the boiler, + made a tremendous noise, which aroused everybody in the ship. + It was a lovely morning, but a flat calm, and the sun rose + magnificently. The few light clouds near the surface of the + water caught and reflected the rays of light most brilliantly + before the sun itself appeared, and assumed all manner of + fanciful shapes.</p> + + <p>About six o'clock a very light breeze sprang up, which + increased during the day; but the sea remained perfectly calm. + We think we must have got into the trade again. This weather is + indeed a luxury after all the knocking about we have lately + gone through; and I feel as if I could never rest enough. The + constant effort to maintain one's balance, whether sitting, + standing, or moving about, has been most fatiguing, and the + illness of the children has made matters worse. Baby is, I + hope, now quite out of danger.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, January 13th</i>.—The engineers made up + their minds that we were in the trade winds again yesterday, + and that we should not want the engines for some days. They + therefore did not hurry on with the repairs as they should have + done. This morning there was a calm, and when Tom ordered steam + to be got up at once, the reply was, 'Please, sir, the engine + won't be ready till night.' This was <span class="pagenum">Page + 306<a name="Page_306" + id="Page_306"></a></span> annoying; but they worked extra + hard all day, and by 4 p.m. steam was raised. At six a nice + little breeze sprang up, which freshened during the evening, + and at midnight orders were given to stop steaming.</p> + + <p>We had another bad night of it—a head wind, the sea + washing over the decks, everything shut up, and the thermometer + standing at 90°.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, January 14th</i>.—I was on deck at 4 a.m. + The Southern Cross, the Great Bear, and the North Star, were + shining with a brilliancy that eclipsed all the other + stars.</p> + + <p>During the day the wind freshened to a squally gale. + Sometimes we were going ten, sometimes thirteen, and sometimes + fifteen knots through the water, knocking about a good deal all + the while. Service was an impossibility; cooking and eating, + indeed, were matters of difficulty. It rained heavily, and the + seas came over the deck continually.</p> + + <p>Many of the sailors and servants were ill. I was hopelessly + so. Nothing annoys me more than to find that, after having + sailed tens and tens of thousands of miles, I cannot cure + myself of sea-sickness. I can stand a good deal more rolling + than I once could; but still, many are the days when nothing + but the firmest determination not to think about it, but to + find something to do, and to do it with all my might, keeps me + on my feet at all. Fewer, happily, are the days when struggling + is of no avail, when I am utterly and hopelessly incapacitated, + ignominiously and literally laid flat on my back, and when no + effort of will can enable me to do what I most wish to + accomplish. If only some physician could invent a sovereign + remedy for sea-sickness, he would deserve well of his country, + and of mankind in general.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, January 15th</i>.—I woke once or twice in + the night, and felt exactly as if I were being pulled backwards + through the water by my <span class="pagenum">Page + 307<a name="Page_307" + id="Page_307"></a></span> hair. We were rushing and tearing + along at such a pace, against a head sea, that it almost + took one's breath away. But at noon we were rewarded for all + discomfort by finding that we had run 298 sea, or 343 land + miles, in 24 hours, and that between 8.14 yesterday and 8.15 + to-day we had made 302 knots, or 347 land miles—nearly + 350 miles in the 24 hours—under very snug canvas, and + through a heavy sea. The wind still continued fair and + fresh, but the sea was much quieter, and we all felt + comparatively comfortable. More sails were set during the + afternoon. Some albatrosses and long-tailed tropic birds + were seen hovering about us. The moon begins to give a good + light now, and we found it very pleasant on deck this + evening.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, January 17th</i>.—It was a fine warm + morning, and we got the children on deck for the first time for + ten days.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, January 18th</i>.—Between breakfast and + lunch we sailed over the spot where Tarquin Island is marked on + the chart, and, between lunch and dinner, over a nameless reef, + also marked on the chart. A good look-out had been kept at the + masthead and in the bows, but not a trace could be seen of + either of these objects in any direction. The weather kept + clear and bright, and the sea was much calmer.</p> + + <p>During the last five days we have covered 1,221 sea + miles.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, January 22nd</i>.—At daylight Asuncion + Island was still visible. It is of volcanic origin, and is in + the form of a perfect sugar-loaf, 2,600 feet high, rising out + of the sea, exactly as I had expected the Peak of Teneriffe to + appear. I should like to have landed on the islands Agrigan or + Tinian, so as to see the interesting remains left by the + ancient inhabitants. Some people say that they resemble Aztec + remains; others, that they are like those of the more modern + Peruvians. All authorities, however, seem to agree that they + are like <span class="pagenum">Page 308<a name="Page_308" + id="Page_308"></a></span> those on Easter Island, the + south-east extremity of Polynesia, this being the + north-west.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_323" + id="Illus_323"></a> <img src="images/t_323.jpg" + width="168" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Amateur Navigation" + title="Illustration: Amateur Navigation" /><br /> + <b>Amateur Navigation</b><br /> + <a href="images/323.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>We were close-hauled all day; the wind was strong, and the + sea rough and disagreeable.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, January 23rd</i>.—Still close-hauled, and + still a heavy swell. I felt very ill, and could scarcely move + my head for neuralgia. The <span class="pagenum">Page + 309<a name="Page_309" + id="Page_309"></a></span> galley boiler burst to-day, so we + are now dependent on the one in the forecastle. During the + night we passed the Euphrosyne rock. It looks like a ship in + full sail, and abounds with turtle, fish, and + sea-elephants.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, January 24th</i>.—Very much colder, + though we are only just outside the tropics. The wind was + rather freer, and we had a beautiful moonlight night.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, January 26th</i>.—During the night the + breeze freshened, and in the morning increased to a gale. Steam + was therefore let off. It has been a miserable day; so cold, + wet, and rough, that it was impossible to do anything, or to + sit anywhere, except on the floor.</p> + + <p>About 9 p.m. I was sitting in the deck-house, when I heard a + tremendous crash, and, looking out, saw that the fore gig + davits had been carried away, taking with them a piece of the + rail, stanchion, and cavil. The gig was hanging from the after + davits, one might say, by a thread, splashing and dashing in + and out of the water, and crashing and splintering against the + side of the yacht. All hands were speedily on deck; and in + spite of the risk they ran, and of the remonstrances of their + comrades, two of the gig's crew jumped into her with a rope, + which they tried to pass round her. It was a difficult task in + that heavy sea, and many times they failed, and we constantly + feared that men, boat, and all were gone. Half a dozen of the + crew caught hold of the rigging outside, put their backs + against the yacht, and with legs outstretched tried to keep the + gig off the ship's side, while all the loose gear was floating + away out of her. At last there was a shout of triumph. The rope + was round her, the men jumped on board the yacht again, whilst + sailors, stewards, and passengers proceeded to hoist and drag + the boat in, with all their might and main. Alas! she was only + a wreck. Her sides were stove in, her planks were started, + there was a hole in her bottom, and the moon shone through her + many cracks.</p> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 310<a name="Page_310" + id="Page_310"></a></span> <i>Saturday, January + 27th</i>.—About two o'clock this morning the yacht + plunged so heavily into a deep sea, that the jibboom, a + beautiful spar, broke short off, and the foretop-gallant + mast and topgallant yard were carried away almost at the + same moment, with a terrible noise. It took about eight + hours to clear the wreck, all hands working all night; and a + very forlorn appearance the deck presented in the morning, + lumbered up with broken spars, ropes, &c. The jibboom + fell right across the forefoot of the yacht, and now looks + as if it had been cut at for weeks with some blunt tool.</p> + + <p>The weather cleared a little to-day, but there was still a + heavy sea and nearly a head wind. The crew were busily engaged + in repairing damages. Unfortunately, two of them are ill, and + so is the carpenter, a specially important person at this + juncture. No men could have behaved better than they all did + after the accident. It was frightful to see them aloft in such + weather, swinging on the ends of the broken spars, as the yacht + rolled and pitched about. When it comes to a pinch they are all + good men and true: not that they are perfection, any more than + other men are.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, January 28th</i>.—It is finer, but bitterly + cold. Several of my tropical birds are already dead. The little + pig from Harpe Island, and the Hawaiian geese, look very + wretched, in spite of all my precautions.</p> + + <p>We had the Litany at eleven, and prayer and a sermon at + four; after which Tom addressed the men, paying them some + well-deserved compliments on their behaviour on Friday + night.</p> + + <p>The decks were very slippery, and as we kept rolling about a + good deal there were some nasty falls among the passengers. We + had a splendid though stormy sunset, which did not belie its + promise, for the wind shortly afterwards became stiffer and + stronger, until at last we had two reefs down, and were + tumbling about in all directions, as we rushed through the + water. The dining-tables tilted till they could go + <span class="pagenum">Page 311<a name="Page_311" + id="Page_311"></a></span> no further, and then paused to go + back again; but not quickly enough, for the glasses began to + walk uphill and go over the edge in the most extraordinary + manner. On deck the night looked brilliant but rather + terrible. The full moon made it as light as day, and + illuminated the fountains of spray blown from the waves by + which we were surrounded. Without her heavy jibboom, and + with her canvas well reefed down, the 'Sunbeam' rode through + it all, dipping her head into the sea, shivering from stem + to stern, and then giving herself a shake, preparatory to a + fresh start, just like a playful water-bird emerging from a + prolonged dive.</p> + + <p>At midnight a tremendous sea struck her, and for a minute + you could not see the yacht at all, as she was completely + enveloped in spray and foam. Tom said it was just like being + behind the falls of Niagara, with the water coming over you + from every quarter at once. It was only loose stuff, however, + for not a green sea did she take on board the whole night + through. Our old engineer, who has been with us so long, made + up his mind that we had struck on a rock, and woke up all the + servants and told them to go on deck. I never felt anything + like it before, and the shock sent half of us out of our + beds.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, January 29th</i>.—At four o'clock I was + called to go on deck to see the burning mountain. The wind was + still blowing hard, but we were among the islands, and in + comparatively smooth water. The full moon still rode high in + the heavens, her light being reflected in rainbow hues from the + spray and foam that drifted along the surface of the water. On + every side were islands and rocks, among which the sea boiled, + and seethed, and swirled, while the roaring breakers dashed + against the higher cliffs, casting great columns of spray into + the air, and falling back in heavy rollers and surf. Just + before us rose the island of Vries, with its cone-shaped + volcano, 2,600 feet high, emitting volumes of smoke and flame. + It was overhung by a cloud of <span class="pagenum">Page + 312<a name="Page_312" + id="Page_312"></a></span> white vapour, on the under side of + which shone the lurid glare of the fires of the crater. + Sometimes this cloud simply floated over the top of the + mountain, from which it was quite detached; then there would + be a fresh eruption; and after a few moments' quiet, great + tongues of flame would shoot up and pierce through the + overhanging cloud to the heavens above, while the molten + lava rose like a fountain for a short distance, and then ran + down the sides of the mountain. It was wondrously beautiful; + and, as a defence against the intense cold, we wrapped + ourselves in furs, and stayed on deck watching the scene, + until the sun rose glorious from the sea, and shone upon the + snow-covered sides of Fujiyama, called by the Japanese 'the + matchless mountain.' It is an extinct crater, of the most + perfect form, rising abruptly from a chain of very low + mountains, so that it stands in unrivalled magnificence. + This morning covered with the fresh-fallen snow, there was + not a spot nor a fleck to be seen upon it, from top to + bottom. It is said to be the youngest mountain in the world, + the enormous mass having been thrown up in the course of a + few days only 862 years B.C.</p> + + <p>We reached the entrance to the Gulf of Yeddo about nine + o'clock, and passed between its shores through hundreds of + junks and fishing boats. I never saw anything like it before. + The water was simply covered with them; and at a distance it + looked as though it would be impossible to force a passage. As + it was, we could not proceed very fast, so constantly were the + orders to 'slow,' 'stop,' 'port,' 'starboard,' given; and I + began at last to fear that it would be impossible to reach + Yokohama without running down at least one boat.</p> + + <p>The shores of the gulf, on each side, consist of sharp-cut + little hills, covered with pines and cryptomerias, and dotted + with temples and villages. Every detail of the scene exactly + resembled the <span class="pagenum">Page 313<a name="Page_313" + id="Page_313"></a></span> Japanese pictures one is + accustomed to see in England; and it was easy to imagine + that we were only gazing upon a slowly moving panorama, + unrolling itself before us.</p> + + <p>It was twelve o'clock before we found ourselves among the + men-of-war and steamers lying near the port of Yokohama, and + two o'clock before the anchor could be dropped.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_328" + id="Illus_328"></a> <img src="images/t_328.jpg" + width="160" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Little Redcap" + title="Illustration: Little Redcap" /><br /> + <b>Little Redcap</b><br /> + <a href="images/328.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>During this interval we were surrounded by a swarm of boats, + the occupants of which clamoured vociferously to be allowed on + board, and in many cases they succeeded in evading the + vigilance of the man at the gangway, by going round the other + side and climbing over the rail. A second man was put on guard; + but it was of no use, for we were invaded from all directions + at once. We had a good many visitors also + <span class="pagenum">Page 314<a name="Page_314" + id="Page_314"></a></span> from the men-of-war, Japanese and + English, and from the reporters of newspapers, full of + curiosity, questions, and astonishment.</p> + + <p>Having at last managed to get some lunch, Tom went to bed to + rest, after his two hard nights' work, and the rest of us went + on shore. Directly we landed at the jetty we were rushed at by + a crowd of <i>jinrikisha</i> men, each drawing a little vehicle + not unlike a Hansom cab, without the seat for the + driver—there being no horse to drive. The man runs + between the shafts, and is often preceded by a leader, + harnessed on in front, tandem fashion. Each of these vehicles + holds one person, and they go along at a tremendous pace.</p> + + <p>We went first to the Consul's, where we got a few letters, + and then to the Post Office, where many more awaited us. We had + then to go to various places to order stores, fresh provisions, + coals, and water, all of which were urgently needed on board, + and to give directions for the repair of boats, spars, &c., + with as little delay as possible. All this business, including + the inevitable search for a good laundress, lay in the European + quarter of the town, the appearance of which was not + remarkable. But the people we met in the streets were a study + in themselves. The children said they looked 'like fans walking + about;' and it was not difficult to understand their meaning. + The dress of the lower orders has remained precisely the same + for hundreds of years; and before I had been ashore five + minutes I realised more fully than I had ever done before the + truthfulness of the representations of native artists, with + which the fans, screens, and vases one sees in England are + ornamented.</p> + + <p>While we were going about, a letter was brought me, + containing the sad news (received here by telegram) of the + death of Tom's mother. It was a terrible shock, coming, too, + just as we were rejoicing in the good accounts from home which + our letters contained. I went on board at + <span class="pagenum">Page 315<a name="Page_315" + id="Page_315"></a></span> once to break the bad news to Tom. + This sad intelligence realised a certain vague dread of + something, we knew not what, which has seemed to haunt us + both on our way hither.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_330" + id="Illus_330"></a> <img src="images/t_330.jpg" + width="240" + height="161" + alt="Illustration: Japanese Boats" + title="Illustration: Japanese Boats" /><br /> + <b>Japanese Boats</b><br /> + <a href="images/330.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 316<a name="Page_316" + id="Page_316"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" + id="CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">YOKOHAMA.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>Heavily plunged the breaking + wave</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>And foam flew up the + lea</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Morning and evening the + drifted snow</i><br /></span> <span><i>Fell into the + dark grey sea</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Tuesday, January 30th</i>.—When we awoke from our + slumbers this morning, it was very cold and dark, and we heard + noises of a strange kind. On going on deck to ascertain the + cause of this state of things, we discovered that the + sky-lights and portholes were all covered and blocked up with + snow, and that the water froze as it came out of the hose, + forming a sheet of ice on the deck. Masses of snow and ice were + falling from the rigging, and everything betokened that our + welcome to Japan would not be a warm one.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_331" + id="Illus_331"></a> <img src="images/t_331.jpg" + width="228" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Fujiyama, Japan" + title="Illustration: Fujiyama, Japan" /><br /> + <b>Fujiyama, Japan</b><br /> + <a href="images/331.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 317<a name="Page_317" + id="Page_317"></a></span> After breakfast we had many + visitors, and received letters from Sir Harry and Lady + Parkes, inviting us to go up to Yeddo to-morrow for a long + day, to settle our future plans.</p> + + <p>Having landed, we went with the Consul to the native town, + to see the curio shops, which are a speciality of the place. + The inhabitants are wonderfully clever at making all sorts of + curiosities, and the manufactories of so-called 'antique + bronzes' and 'old china' are two of the most wonderful sights + in Yokohama. The way in which they scrape, crack, chip, mend, + and colour the various articles, cover them with dust, + partially clean them, and imitate the marks and signatures of + celebrated makers, is more creditable to their ingenuity than + to their honesty. Still, there are a good many genuine old + relics from the temples, and from the large houses of the + reduced Daimios, to be picked up, if you go the right way to + work, though the supply is limited. Dealers are plentiful, and + travellers, especially from America, are increasing in numbers. + When we first made acquaintance with the shops we thought they + seemed full of beautiful things, but even one day's shopping, + in the company of experienced people, has educated our taste + and taught us a great deal; though we have still much to learn. + There are very respectable-looking lacquer cabinets ranging in + price from 5<i>s</i>. to 20<i>l</i>. But they are only made for + the foreign market. No such things exist in a Japanese home. A + really good bit of old lacquer (the best is generally made into + the form of a small box, a portable medicine-chest, or a + chow-chow box) is worth from 20<i>l</i>. to 200<i>l</i>. We saw + one box, about three inches square, which was valued at + 45<i>l</i>.; and a collection of really good lacquer would be + costly and difficult to procure even here. The best specimens I + have ever seen are at Lady Alcock's; but they are all either + royal or princely presents, not to be bought with money. The + tests of good lacquer are its exquisite finish, its satiny, + oily feel, and the impossibility of making any impression on it + with your thumb-nail. It<span class="pagenum">Page + 318<a name="Page_318" + id="Page_318"></a></span> is practically indestructible, and + will wear for ever. All the poor as well as the rich people + here use it, and have used it for centuries, instead of + china and glass, for cups, saucers, dishes, bowls, which + would need to be often washed in the hottest of water. It is + said that the modern Japanese have lost the art of lacquer + making; and as an illustration I was told that many + beautiful articles of lacquer, old and new, had been sent + from this country to the Vienna Exhibition in 1873, but the + price put on them was so exorbitant that few were sold, and + nearly all had to be sent back to Japan. Just as the ship + with these things on board reached the Gulf of Yeddo, she + struck on a rock and sank in shallow water. A month or two + ago a successful attempt was made to raise her, and to + recover the cargo, when it was found that the new lacquer + had been reduced to a state of pulp, while the old was not + in the least damaged. I tell you the tale as it was told to + me.</p> + + <p>After a long day's shopping, we went to dine, in real + Japanese fashion, at a Japanese tea-house. The establishment + was kept by a very pleasant woman, who received us at the door, + and who herself removed our exceedingly dirty boots before + allowing us to step on to her clean mats. This was all very + well, as far as it went; but she might as well have supplied us + with some substitute for the objectionable articles, for it was + a bitterly cold night, and the highly polished wood passages + and steep staircase felt very cold to our shoeless feet. The + apartment we were shown into was so exact a type of a room in + any Japanese house, that I may as well describe it once for + all. The woodwork of the roof and the framework of the screens + were all made of a handsome dark polished wood, not unlike + walnut. The exterior walls under the verandah, as well as the + partitions between the other rooms, were simply wooden + lattice-work screens, covered with white paper, and sliding in + grooves; so that you could walk in or out at any part of the + wall you chose, and it was, in like manner, impossible to + say<span class="pagenum">Page 319<a name="Page_319" + id="Page_319"></a></span> whence the next comer would make + his appearance. Doors and windows are, by this arrangement, + rendered unnecessary, and do not exist. You open a little + bit of your wall if you want to look out, and a bigger bit + if you want to step out. The floor was covered with several + thicknesses of very fine mats, each about six feet long by + three broad, deliciously soft to walk upon. All mats in + Japan are of the same size, and everything connected with + house-building is measured by this standard. Once you have + prepared your foundations and woodwork of the dimensions of + so many mats, it is the easiest thing in the world to go to + a shop and buy a house, ready made, which you can then set + up and furnish in the scanty Japanese fashion in a couple of + days.</p> + + <p>On one side of the room was a slightly raised daïs, + about four inches from the floor. This was the seat of honour. + On it had been placed a stool, a little bronze ornament, and a + china vase, with a branch of cherry-blossom and a few + flag-leaves gracefully arranged. On the wall behind hung + pictures, which are changed every month, according to the + season of the year. There was no other furniture of any sort in + the room. Four nice-looking Japanese girls brought us thick + cotton quilts to sit upon, and braziers full of burning + charcoal, to warm ourselves by. In the centre of the group + another brazier was placed, protected by a square wooden + grating, and over the whole they laid a large silk eider-down + quilt, to retain the heat. This is the way in which all the + rooms, even bedrooms, are warmed in Japan, and the result is + that fires are of very frequent occurrence. The brazier is + kicked over by some restless or careless person, and in a + moment the whole place is in a blaze.</p> + + <p>Presently the eider down and brazier were removed, and our + dinner was brought in. A little lacquer table, about six inches + high, on which were arranged a pair of chop-sticks, a basin of + soup, a bowl for<span class="pagenum">Page + 320<a name="Page_320" + id="Page_320"></a></span> rice, a <i>saki</i> cup, and a + basin of hot water, was placed before each person, whilst + the four Japanese maidens sat in our midst, with fires to + keep the <i>saki</i> hot, and to light the tiny pipes with + which they were provided, and from which they wished us to + take a whiff after each dish. <i>Saki</i> is a sort of + spirit, distilled from rice, always drunk hot, out of small + cups. In this state it is not disagreeable, but we found it + exceedingly nasty when cold.</p> + + <p>Everything was well cooked and served, though the + ingredients of some of the dishes, as will be seen from the + following bill of fare, were rather strange to our ideas. Still + they were all eatable, and most of them really palatable.</p> + + <p class="ctr"><i>Soup</i>.<br /> + <br /> + <i>Shrimps and Seaweed</i>.<br /> + <br /> + <i>Prawns, Egg Omelette, and Preserved Grapes</i>.<br /> + <br /> + <i>Fried Fish, Spinach, Young Rushes, and Young + Ginger</i>.<br /> + <br /> + <i>Raw Fish, Mustard and Cress, Horseradish, and Soy</i>.<br /> + <br /> + <i>Thick Soup, of Eggs, Fish, Mushrooms, and Spinach; Grilled + Fish</i>.<br /> + <br /> + <i>Fried Chicken, and Bamboo Shoots</i>.<br /> + <br /> + <i>Turnip Tops and Root Pickled</i>.<br /> + <br /> + <i>Rice ad libitum in a large bowl</i>.<br /> + <br /> + <i>Hot Saki, Pipes and Tea</i>.<br /></p> + + <p>The meal concluded with an enormous lacquer box of rice, + from which all our bowls were filled, the rice being thence + conveyed to our mouths by means of chop-sticks. We managed very + well with these substitutes for spoons and forks, the knack of + using which, to a certain extent, is soon acquired. The long + intervals between the dishes were beguiled with songs, music, + and dancing, performed by <span class="pagenum">Page + 321<a name="Page_321" + id="Page_321"></a></span> professional singing and dancing + girls. The music was somewhat harsh and monotonous; but the + songs sounded harmonious, and the dancing was graceful, + though it was rather posturing than dancing, great use being + made of the fan and the long trailing skirts. The girls, who + were pretty, wore peculiar dresses to indicate their + calling, and seemed of an entirely different stamp from the + quiet, simply dressed waitresses whom we found so attentive + to our wants. Still they all looked cheery, light-hearted, + simple creatures, and appeared to enjoy immensely the little + childish games they played amongst themselves between + whiles.</p> + + <p>After dinner we had some real Japanese tea, tasting exactly + like a little hot water poured on very fragrant new-mown hay. + Then, after a brief visit to the kitchen, which, though small, + was beautifully clean, we received our boots, and were bowed + out by our pleasant hostess and her attentive handmaidens.</p> + + <p>On our return we had considerable difficulty in procuring a + boat, our own boats being all ashore under repair. It was a + beautiful moonlight night, but bitterly cold. The harbour being + so full of shipping, our boatmen were at first puzzled how to + find the yacht, till we pointed to the lights in the + deck-house—always a good beacon at night in a crowded + harbour.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, January 31st</i>. We left the yacht soon after + eight o'clock, and started by the 9.34 a.m. train for the city + formerly called Yeddo, but latterly, since the Mikado has + resided there, Tokio, or eastern capital of Japan. The ground + was covered with snow, and there were several degrees of frost, + but the sun felt hot, and all the people were sunning + themselves in the doorways or wide verandahs of their + houses.</p> + + <p>Yokohama has been so completely Europeanised, that it was + not until we had left it that we caught our first glimpse of + Japanese life; and the whole landscape and the many villages + looked very like a set of living fans or + <span class="pagenum">Page 322<a name="Page_322" + id="Page_322"></a></span>tea-trays, though somehow the snow + did not seem to harmonise with it.</p> + + <p>We crossed several rivers, and reached Tokio in about an + hour, when we at once emerged into the midst of a clattering, + chattering crowd, amongst whom there did not seem to be a + single European. The reverberation, under the glass roof of the + station, of the hundreds of pairs of wooden clogs, pattering + along, was something extraordinary. Giving up our tickets, and + following the stream, we found ourselves surrounded by a still + more animated scene, outside the station. We were just + deliberating what to do next, when a smart little Japanese, + with a mail-bag over his shoulder, stepped forward and said + something about Sir Harry Parkes. He then popped us all into + several double and treble-manned <i>jinrikishas</i>, and + started off himself ahead at a tremendous pace, shouting and + clearing the way for us.</p> + + <p>Tokio is a genuinely Japanese town. Not a single foreigner + resides within its limits, with the exception of the foreign + Ministers. There is no hotel nor any place of the kind to stay + at; so that, unless you have friends at any of the Legations, + you must return to Yokohama the same day, which makes a visit + rather a fatiguing affair<a name="FNanchor_16_16" + id="FNanchor_16_16">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_16_16" + class="fnanchor">[16]</a></p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_16_16" + id="Footnote_16_16"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> + I have since heard that there are two hotels at Tokio, + such as they are.</p> + </div> + + <p>Our first halting-place was at the Temple of Shiba, not far + from the station, where most of the Tycoons have been buried. + It is a large enclosure, many acres in extent, in the centre of + the city, with walls overgrown with creepers, and shadowed by + evergreen trees, amid whose branches rooks caw, ravens croak, + and pigeons coo, as undisturbedly as if in the midst of the + deepest woodland solitude. I had no idea there was anything so + beautiful in Japanese architecture as this temple. The primary + idea in the architecture of Japan is evidently that of a tent + among trees. The lines of the high, overhanging, richly + decorated roofs, with pointed gable ends, are not straight, but + <span class="pagenum">Page 323<a name="Page_323" + id="Page_323"></a></span>delicately curved, like the + suspended cloth of a tent. In the same way, the pillars have + neither capital nor base, but seem to run through the + building perpendicularly, without beginning or end. The + principal temple was burnt down a few years ago; but there + are many smaller ones remaining, built in exactly the same + style, and all the tombs are perfect. Some people say the + bodies are enclosed in coffins, filled with vermilion, but I + need hardly say we had no opportunity of ascertaining the + correctness of this statement. We entered several of the + temples, which are perfect marvels of carving, gilding, + painting, and lacquer work. Their style of decoration may be + somewhat barbaric; but what a study they would form for an + artist! Outside, where no colour is used, the overhanging + roofs and the walls are carved with a depth and boldness, + and yet a delicacy, I have seldom seen equalled; the doors + and railings being of massive bronze, brought from the + Corea. Within, a dim religious light illumines and + harmonises a dazzling mass of lacquer, gold, and painting. + It is the grandest burial-place imaginable; too good for the + long line of men who have tyrannised over Japan and its + lawful sovereigns for so many centuries past.</p> + + <p>The streets of Tokio were crowded with a motley throng up to + the very gates of the citadel, where, within the first moat, + stand all the <i>yashgis</i>, or residences of the Daimios. + Each <i>yashgi</i> is surrounded by a blank wall, loopholed, + and with a tower at each of the four corners. Within this outer + wall is the court of the retainers, all of them 'two-sworded' + men; then comes a second wall, also loopholed, inside which + dwell distant relations of the Daimio; and then again a third + enclosure, guarding the Daimio himself, with his immediate + belongings. After crossing the third moat we reached the + Mikado's gardens and palace, the public offices, and the + residences of the foreign Ministers, all of which were formerly + occupied by the Tycoon, or Shogun, and his ministers. On the + waters <span class="pagenum">Page 324<a name="Page_324" + id="Page_324"></a></span>of the inner moat were thousands of + wild ducks and geese. Nobody is allowed to harm them, and + the birds seem to be perfectly aware of this fact, for they + disport themselves with the greatest confidence.</p> + + <p>The English Embassy is a nice red brick house, built in the + centre of a garden, so as to be as secure as possible from fire + or attack. After a most pleasant luncheon we looked over the + nucleus of a second collection which Lady Parkes is beginning + to form. Her former beautiful collection was burnt a few years + ago, a most disheartening misfortune, especially as the + opportunities for obtaining really old and good things in Japan + are diminishing day by day.</p> + + <p>A little later we started in great force, some in carriages + and some on horseback, attended by running grooms, to see + something more of the city. These men think nothing of running + by the side of a horse and carriage some forty miles a day. + They form a distinct class, and when working on their own + account wear little clothing. When in the service of private + individuals they are dressed in tight-fitting dark-blue + garments, with short capes, fastened to their arms, and large + hats.</p> + + <p>Just outside the Embassy we passed two of the finest of the + still existing <i>yashgis</i>, the larger one being used as the + Home Office, the other as the Foreign Office.</p> + + <p>There is always a festival going on in some part of Tokio. + To-day there had been a great wrestling-match, and we met all + the people coming away. Such crowds of <i>jinrikiskas</i>, full + of gaily dressed and painted women and children, with their + hair plastered into all sorts of inconceivable shapes, and + decorated with artificial flowers and glittering pins! We met + six of the wrestlers themselves, riding in + <i>jinrikishas</i>—big men, prodigiously fat, and not at + all, according to our ideas, in fighting or wrestling + condition. One of their <i>jinrikisha</i> men stumbled and + fell, just as they passed us, and the wrestler shot out, head + over heels, and lay, a helpless ball of fat, in the middle of + the <span class="pagenum">Page 325<a name="Page_325" + id="Page_325"></a></span>road, till somebody came and picked + him up. He was not in the least hurt, and, as soon as he was + set on his feet again, began to belabour the poor + <i>jinrikisha</i> man most unmercifully. After a long and + delightful drive we arrived at the station just in time to + catch the train.</p> + + <p>The return journey to Yokohama, in the omnibus-like railway + carriages, was very cold, and the <i>jinrikisha</i> drive to + the Grand Hotel colder still; but a roaring fire and a capital + dinner soon warmed and comforted us.</p> + + <p>After dinner we looked over a fine collection of photographs + of Japanese scenery and costumes, and then returned to the + yacht in the house-boat belonging to the hotel, which was + prettily decorated with bright-coloured lanterns, and which + afforded welcome shelter from the biting wind.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, February 1st</i>.—Careful arrangements + have been made for our excursion to the Island of Inoshima, to + see the great figure of Daibutz. By eight o'clock we had + landed, and packed ourselves into a funny little shaky + carriage, drawn by four horses. We drove quickly through the + town, past the station, along the Tokaido, or imperial road, + running from one end of the Island of Niphon to the other, and + on which so many foreigners have been murdered even within the + last ten years. Now, however, it is perfectly safe. The houses + are one story high, and their walls are made of the screens I + have already described. These screens were all thrown back, to + admit the morning air, cold as it was. We could consequently + see all that was going on within, in the sitting-room in front, + and even in the bedrooms and kitchen. At the back of the house + there was invariably a little garden to be seen, with a + miniature rockery, a tree, and a lake; possibly also a bridge + and a temple. Even in the gardens of the poorest houses an + attempt at something of the sort had been made. The domestic + occupations of the inhabitants being conducted in this public + manner, a very good idea might be obtained, even at the end of + a few miles' drive, of how the lower <span class="pagenum">Page + 326<a name="Page_326" + id="Page_326"></a></span>class of Japanese wash and dress + themselves and their children, how very elaborate the + process of hair-dressing is, to say nothing of a bird's-eye + view of the ground-plan of the houses, the method of cooking + food, &c.</p> + + <p>As we emerged into the open country the landscape became + very pretty, and the numerous villages, nestling in the valleys + at the foot of the various small hills, had a most picturesque + appearance. At a stone-quarry that we passed, on the side of a + mountain, there were about seventy men at work, without any + clothing, though the thermometer was far below freezing point. + The Japanese are a sensitive nation, and finding that + foreigners were astonished and shocked at the habits of the + people, in going about without clothes, and in bathing in + public and at their house doors, they passed a law prohibiting + these customs in towns. In the country, however, the more + primitive customs are still in force, and every dwelling has + its half-open bath-house, whilst the people do as they like in + the matter of clothing.</p> + + <p>After stopping twice on the road, to drink the inevitable + tea, we changed from our carriage to <i>jinrikishas</i>, each + drawn and pushed by four strong men, bowling along at a merry + pace. The sun was very warm in the sheltered valleys, and the + abundance of evergreens of all kinds quite deluded one into the + belief that it was summer time, especially as camellias grew + like forest trees, covered with red and white bloom, amidst a + dense tangle of bamboos and half-hardy palms. There were many + strange things upside down to be seen on efther + hand—horses and cows with bells on their tails instead of + on their necks, the quadrupeds well clothed, their masters + without a scrap of covering, tailors sewing from them instead + of to them, a carpenter reversing the action of his saw and + plane. It looked just as if they had originally learned the + various processes in 'Alice's Looking-glass World' in some + former stage of their existence.</p> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 327<a name="Page_327" + id="Page_327"></a></span>We had not long left the town + before our men began to undress each other; for their + clothes were so tight that it required no inconsiderable + effort to remove them. Some of them were beautifully + tattooed. My wheeler had the root of a tree depicted on one + foot, from which sprang the trunk and branches, spreading + gradually, until on his back and chest they bore fruit and + flowers, amongst which birds were perched. On his other leg + was a large stork, supposed, I imagine, to be standing under + the shadow of the same tree. Another man had human figures + tattooed all over him, in various attitudes.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_342" + id="Illus_342"></a> <img src="images/t_342.jpg" + width="240" + height="184" + alt="Illustration: A Drag across the Sand in a Jinrikisha" + title="Illustration: A Drag across the Sand in a Jinrikisha" /> + <br /> + <b>A Drag across the Sand in a Jinrikisha</b><br /> + <a href="images/342.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>In less than an hour we reached the narrow strip of land + which at low water connects the island or peninsula of Inoshima + with the mainland. This isthmus was covered with natives + gathering shells and seaweed, casting their nets, and pushing + off or dragging up their boats; whilst an island rose fresh and + green from the sea, with a background of snowy mountains, + stretching across the bay, <span class="pagenum">Page + 328<a name="Page_328" + id="Page_328"></a></span>above which Fujiyama towered + grandly. This name signifies 'not two, but one mountain,' + the Japanese thinking it impossible that there can be + another like it in the world. The lovely little island is + called Inoshima, and is conical in shape and covered with + evergreens and Buddhist temples, with a few small fishing + villages scattered on its shores. We walked right across it + in about an hour; so you may imagine it is not very large. + The sea teems with curiously shaped fish and beautiful + shells. The staple food of the inhabitants seems to be those + lovely 'Venus's ears, <a name="FNanchor_17_17" + id="FNanchor_17_17">'</a> <a href="#Footnote_17_17" + class="fnanchor">[17]</a> as they are called—a + flattish univalve, about as big as your hand, with a row of + holes along the edge, and a lining of brilliant black + mother-of-pearl. These were lying about in heaps mixed with + white mother-of-pearl shells, as big as your two fists, and + shaped like a snail-shell.</p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_17_17" + id="Footnote_17_17"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> + Haliotis.</p> + </div> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_343" + id="Illus_343"></a> <img src="images/t_343.jpg" + width="240" + height="158" + alt="Illustration: Inoshima by a Japanese Artist" + title="Illustration: Inoshima by a Japanese Artist" /><br /> + + <b>Inoshima by a Japanese Artist</b><br /> + <a href="images/343.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>Our <i>jinrikisha</i> men deposited us at the bottom of the + main street of the principal village, to enter which we passed + through a simple square arch of a temple. The street was steep + and dirty, and consisted principally of shell-fish and seaweed + shops. <span class="pagenum">Page 329<a name="Page_329" + id="Page_329"></a></span></p> + + <p>An old priest took us in hand, and, providing us with stout + sticks, marched us up to the top of the hill to see various + temples, and splendid views in many directions. The camellias + and evergreens on the hillside made a lovely framework for each + little picture, as we turned and twisted along the narrow path. + I know not how many steps on the other side of the island had + to be descended before the sea-beach was reached. Here is a + cavern stretching 500 feet straight below high-water mark, with + a shrine to Benton Sama, the Lucina of Japan; and having been + provided with candles, we proceeded a few hundred feet through + another cave, running at right angles to the first.</p> + + <p>As it would have been a long steep walk back, and I was very + tired, we called to one of the numerous fishing boats near the + shore, and were quickly conveyed round to our original starting + place. Before we said good-bye, one of the old priests implored + to be allowed to dive into the water for half-a-dollar. His + request was complied with, and he caught the coin most + successfully.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_344" + id="Illus_344"></a> <img src="images/t_344.jpg" + width="212" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: A Boatman" + title="Illustration: A Boatman" /><br /> + <b>A Boatman</b><br /> + <a href="images/344.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>We lunched at a tea-house, our meal consisting of fish of + all kinds, deliciously cooked, and served, fresh from the fire, + in a style worthy of Greenwich; and as we had taken the + precaution to bring some bread and wine with us, we were + independent of the usual rice and <i>saki</i>.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_345" + id="Illus_345"></a> <img src="images/t_345.jpg" + width="115" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Our Luncheon Bill" + title="Illustration: Our Luncheon Bill" /><br /> + <b>Our Luncheon Bill</b><br /> + <a href="images/345.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>After this we proceeded on our way towards the Daibutz, or + Great Buddha, situated within the limits of what was once the + large city of Kama-kura, now only a collection of small + hamlets. As all Japanese cities are built of wood, it is not + wonderful that they should in time <span class="pagenum">Page + 330<a name="Page_330" + id="Page_330"></a></span>entirely disappear, and leave no + trace behind them. But there still remain some of the + columns of the temple which once existed in the gardens + surrounding the idol. Now he is quite alone; and for + centuries has this grand old figure sat, exposed to the + elements, serenely smiling on the varying scene beneath him. + The figure is of bronze, and is supposed to have been cast + about the year 1250 or 1260.</p> + + <p>It is some 50 ft. high, with golden eyes and a silver spiral + horn on the forehead. It is possible to sit or stand on the + thumb, and within the hollow body an altar is erected, at which + the priests officiate. Sitting there, amidst a grove of + enormous cryptomerias and bamboos, there is an air of ineffable + silent strength about that solitary figure, which affords a + clue to the tenacity with which the poorer classes cling to + Buddhism. The very calmness of these figures must be more + suggestive of relief and repose to the poor weary worshippers + than the glitter of the looking-glass and crystal ball to be + found in the Shintoo temples. The looking-glass is intended to + remind believers that the Supreme Being can see their innermost + thoughts as clearly as they can perceive their own reflection; + while the crystal ball is an emblem of purity. Great store is + set by the latter, especially if of large size and without + flaw; but to my mind the imperfect ones are the best, as they + refract the light and do not look so much like glass.</p> + + <p>In another village close by—also part of the ancient + Kama-kura—there is a fine temple, dedicated to the God + <span class="pagenum">Page 331<a name="Page_331" + id="Page_331"></a></span> of War; but we were pressed for + time, and hurried back to the little carriages. The homeward + drive was long and cold; but the Tokaido looked very pretty + lighted up, the shadows of the inmates being plainly visible + on the paper walls, reminding one of a scene in a pantomime. + On our way down a very steep hill we met the men carrying a + <i>cango</i>. It is a most uncomfortable-looking basket-work + contrivance, in which it is impossible to sit or lie with + ease. These <i>cangoes</i> used formerly to be the ordinary + conveyance of Japan, but they are now replaced by the + <i>jinrikishas</i>, and they are seldom met with, except in + the mountains or in out-of-the-way places.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, February 2nd</i>.—I was called at five + o'clock, and at half-past six Mabelle and I started for the + market. It was blowing a gale, and our four oarsmen found it as + much as they could do to reach the shore. The Shanghai + mail-boat was just in, and I pitied the poor passengers, who + were in all the misery of being turned out into the cold of the + early morning, with the spray breaking over them as they sat in + the small boats.</p> + + <p>The market at Yokohama is one of the sights of the place. + There were large quantities of birds and game of all + kinds—pheasants with tails six feet long, of a rare + copper-coloured variety, ducks, pigeons, small birds, hares, + deer, rabbits. The fish-market was well supplied, especially + with cuttle-fish. They are not inviting-looking, but are + considered a delicacy here. A real octopus, in a basket, with + its hideous body in the centre, and its eight arms, covered + with suckers, arranged in the form of a star, is worth from a + dollar to a dollar and a half, according to its size. I was not + tempted, however, to make any purchases.</p> + + <p>From the market we went to one or two small shops in back + streets, and thence over the bluffs, in the teeth of a bitterly + cold wind, to a nursery garden, to examine the results of the + Japanese art of dwarfing and distorting trees. Some of the + specimens were very curious and some beautiful, + <span class="pagenum">Page 332<a name="Page_332" + id="Page_332"></a></span>but most were simply hideous. We + saw tiny old gnarled fruit-trees, covered with blossom, and + Scotch firs and other forest trees, eight inches high, + besides diminutive ferns and creepers.</p> + + <p>It being now half-past nine o'clock, we went to the hotel to + meet the rest of the party for breakfast, and at one o'clock we + returned to the yacht. At half-past one Lady Parkes and several + other friends from Tokio came on board to luncheon. They told + of three disastrous fires that had taken place in Tokio + yesterday, by which the Home Office—one of the finest old + Tartar <i>yashgis</i>—and several smaller edifices had + been destroyed.</p> + + <p>After the departure of our guests we paid another visit to + the shore, and saw the foxhounds. They are a nice pack, and + have good kennels outside the foreign settlement. They were out + this morning at 6.30, but unfortunately we did not know of it. + There are plenty of foxes, and some very fair country not far + from here; so they expect to have good sport.</p> + + <p>We weighed anchor at 8.30 p.m. and proceeded under steam. At + 11.30, when off Touraya-saki, we set some of the head canvas. + It was a cold night, with sleet and snow, though it was not + blowing as hard as during the day.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 333<a name="Page_333" + id="Page_333"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XX" + id="CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">KIOTO, LATE MIACO.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>Manners with fortunes, humours change with + climes</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Tenets with books, + and principles with times</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Saturday, February 3rd</i>.—The occasional glimpses + of the coast scenery through the sleet and snow were very fine. + We passed Rocky Island, Lady Inglis rocks, and Matoya. But + Mabelle and I spent most of the day in bed; she suffering from + a blow from the boom, which had produced slight concussion of + the brain, and I having a wretched cold, which has been + gradually getting worse the last few days, and which has quite + taken away my voice.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, February 4th</i>.—It was blowing hard all + day, raining, snowing, and sleeting. The scenery appeared to be + pretty, and we passed through crowds of picturesque junks.</p> + + <p>At 4.25 we rounded Tomamgai Smia, and at 9 p.m. anchored off + the town of Kobe, or Hiogo.</p> + + <p>These constant changes of names are very puzzling. Miaco and + Yeddo, which we did know something about, are quite cut out, + and replaced by Kioto and Tokio. Oddly enough, the same + syllables, reversed, mean capital of the Western Empire and + capital of the Eastern Empire respectively.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, February 5th</i>.—By seven o'clock a boat + was alongside with letters from the Consul and Sir Harry + Parkes, who had kindly made all the necessary arrangements for + us to see the opening of the railway from Kobe + <span class="pagenum">Page 334<a name="Page_334" + id="Page_334"></a></span>to Kioto, and for the presentation + of the gentlemen to the Mikado.</p> + + <p>It certainly was a great opportunity for seeing a Japanese + holiday crowd, all dressed in their best. Thousands and + thousands of people were in the streets, who, though naturally + anxious to see as much as possible, behaved in the most quiet + and orderly manner. The station was beautifully decorated with + evergreens, camellias, and red berries. Outside there was a + most marvellous pavilion, the woodwork of which had been + entirely covered with evergreens, and ornamented with life-size + dragons and phoenixes (the imperial insignia of Japan), all + made in flowers. The roof was studded with large + chrysanthemums—the private device of the Mikado, that of + the Tycoon being three hollyhock leaves. The sides of the + pavilion were quite open, the roof being simply supported on + pillars; so that we could see everything that went on, both + inside and out. The floor was covered with red cloth; the + daïs with an extremely ugly Brussels carpet, with a large + pattern. On this the Mikado's throne was placed, with a second + canopy above it. Tom in R.N.R. uniform, the other gentlemen in + evening dress, accompanied the Consul on to the platform to + receive the Mikado; while the children and I went with Mrs. + Annesley to seats reserved for the foreign representatives. + There were not many Europeans present; but the platform was + densely crowded with Japanese, sitting on their heels, and + patiently waiting to see the extraordinary sight of their + hitherto invisible spiritual Emperor brought to them by a steam + engine on an iron road. The men had all had their heads fresh + shaven, and their funny little pigtails rearranged for the + occasion. The women's hair was elaborately and stiffly done up + with light tortoiseshell combs and a large pin, and decorated + with artificial flowers. Some of the children were gaily + dressed in red and gold under garments, the prevailing colour + of the costumes being dark blue, turned up with red. They also + wore gay <span class="pagenum">Page 335<a name="Page_335" + id="Page_335"></a></span>embroidered <i>obis</i>, or large + sashes, which are put on in a peculiar fashion. They are of + great width, and are fastened tightly round the waist, while + an enormous bow behind reaches from between the shoulders to + far below the hips. The garments fit tightly in front, while + at the back they form a sort of huge bunch. On their + high-heeled clogs the women walk with precisely the same + gait as ladies in high-heeled boots. In fact, so exactly do + the Japanese women (you never see Japanese <i>ladies</i> + walking about in the streets) caricature the present + fashionable style of dress in Europe, that I have formed a + theory of my own on the subject, and this is it.</p> + + <p>Some three or four years ago, among other proposed reforms + in Japan, the Ministers wished the Empress and her Court to be + dressed in European fashion. Accordingly a French milliner and + dressmaker, with her assistants, was sent for from Paris, and + in due time arrived. The Empress and her ladies, however, would + not change their style of dress. They knew better what suited + them, and in my opinion they were very sensible. This is what I + hear. Now what I think is, that the Parisienne, being of an + enterprising turn of mind, thought that she would not take so + long a journey for nothing—that if the Japanese ladies + would not follow European fashions, at least European ladies + should adopt the Japanese style. On her return to Paris I am + convinced that she promulgated this idea, and gradually gave it + effect. Hence the fashions of the last two years.</p> + + <p>Watching the crowd occupied the time in a most interesting + manner, till the firing of guns and the playing of bands + announced the arrival of the imperial train. The Mikado was + received on the platform, and after a very short delay he + headed the procession along the covered way on to the + daïs.</p> + + <p>He is a young, not very good-looking man, with rather a + sullen expression, and legs that look as though they + <span class="pagenum">Page 336<a name="Page_336" + id="Page_336"></a></span>did not belong to him—I + suppose from using them so little, and sitting so much on + his heels; for until the last few years the Mikado has + always been considered far too sacred a being to be allowed + to set foot on the earth. He was followed by his highest + Minister, the foreign Ministers, and a crowd of Japanese + dignitaries, all, with one or two exceptions, in European + official dress, glittering with gold lace. I believe it was + the first time that many of them had ever worn it. At any + rate, they certainly had never learned to put it on + properly. It would have driven to distraction the tailor who + made them, to see tight-fitting uniforms either left + unbuttoned altogether, or hooked askew from top to bottom, + and to behold the trousers turned up and disfigured by the + projecting tags of immense side-spring boots, generally put + on the wrong feet. Some of the visitors had no gloves, while + others wore them with fingers at least three inches too + long. Certainly a court dresser as well as a court tailor + ought to be appointed to the Mikado's establishment, before + the European costume becomes generally adopted.</p> + + <p>I could not help thinking that the two or three old + conservative Ministers who had stuck to their native dress must + have congratulated themselves on their firmness, when they saw + the effect of the unaccustomed garments upon their + <i>confrères</i>. The old court dress of the Daimios is + very handsome, consisting of rich silks and brocades, with + enormously long loose trousers trailing two or three feet on + the ground, and with sleeves, like butterfly wings, of + corresponding dimensions. A small high-peaked black cap is worn + on the head, to accommodate the curious little cut-off pigtail, + set up like a cock's comb, which appears to be one of the + insignia of a Daimio's rank in Japan.</p> + + <p>As soon as the people had arranged themselves into three + sides of a square, Sir Harry Parkes read an address, and + presented his five compatriots to the Mikado, who replied in + inaudible but no doubt suitable terms. Then the + <span class="pagenum">Page 337<a name="Page_337" + id="Page_337"></a></span>Governor of Kobe had to read an + address, and I pitied the poor man from the bottom of my + heart. His knees shook, his hands trembled, and his whole + body vibrated to such an extent, that his cocked hat fell + and rolled on the floor of the daïs, and finally hopped + down the steps, while the address nearly followed its + example. How thankful he must have felt when it was + over!</p> + + <p>The proceedings in the pavilion being now at an end, the + Mikado walked down the middle of the assembly, followed by all + his Ministers in single file, on his way to the luncheon tent. + After they had gone, we inspected the imperial railway + carriage, the soldiers, guns, &c., and just as we were + leaving the station yard, to look at the daylight fireworks + they were letting off in honour of the occasion, a salute + announced the departure of the Mikado for Kioto.</p> + + <p>We lunched at the Consulate, our gentlemen changed to more + comfortable attire, and then we went to see a Buddhist temple, + supposed to be rather a fine specimen of woodwork. It is + specially curious on account of some monkeys and a white horse, + each kept in a sort of side shrine. Every worshipper at the + temple stopped before these shrines, and for a small coin + bought rice or beans to feed them with, through the priest. + Whether it was an act of worship, or simply of kindness, I + could not discover, though I paid several visits to the spot + during our stay at Kobe.</p> + + <p>From the temple we went to the shops in the main street of + Hiogo, and full of interest and temptation we found them. The + town itself is quite Japanese, and consists, as usual, of + wooden houses, narrow streets, and quaint shops. To-day all was + <i>en fête</i>, in preparation for the illuminations + to-night.</p> + + <p>Kobe, the foreign settlement, is, on the contrary, bran-new, + spick and span, with a handsome parade, and grass and trees, + planted boulevard fashion, along the edge of the + <span class="pagenum">Page 338<a name="Page_338" + id="Page_338"></a></span>sea. It is all remarkably clean, + but quite uninteresting. To-night, however, it looked very + well, illuminated by thousands and thousands of coloured + paper lanterns, arranged in all sorts of fanciful devices. + It was dark and clear, and there was no wind, so that + everything went off well.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_353" + id="Illus_353"></a> <img src="images/t_353.jpg" + width="235" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: A family group" + title="Illustration: A family group" /><br /> + <b>A family group</b><br /> + <a href="images/353.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Tuesday, February 6th</i>.—My cold being still bad, + Mabelle by no means well yet, and Tom very busy, we at first + thought of keeping quiet to-day. But our time is so short, that + we could not afford to waste it; so half our party started + early for Kioto, it being arranged that Tom and Mabelle should + follow us by an early train to-morrow. It was a wet cheerless + day, and the country did not look its best. Still, the novelty + of the scenes around could not fail to make them interesting. + The Japanese have an intense horror of rain, and it was + ludicrous to see the peasants walking along with scarcely any + clothes on except a pair of high clogs, a large hat, and a + paper umbrella. We crossed several large bridges, stopped at a + great many stations, where heaps of native travellers got in + and out, and finally reached Kioto at half-past two o'clock. It + was still raining, and all the <i>jinrikisha</i> men wore their + large rain hats and rain cloaks, made either of reeds or of + oiled paper. Most of the <i>jinrikishas</i>, too, had oiled + paper hoods and aprons.</p> + + <p>The drive to our hotel, through long, narrow, crowded, + picturesque streets, seemed long and wearisome. It was still a + holiday, and remains of the previous night's illuminations were + to be seen on all sides. The large paper lanterns still + remained fastened to the high poles, <span class="pagenum">Page + 339<a name="Page_339" + id="Page_339"></a></span>with an open umbrella at the top to + afford protection from the rain.</p> + + <p>Kioto is a thoroughly Japanese town. I do not suppose it + contains a single European resident; so that the manners and + customs of the natives may be seen in perfection. Its theatres + and jugglers are famous throughout Japan. In the suburb, where + the two hotels are situated, stand numberless tea-houses and + other places of entertainment. Our hotel is situated half-way + up the hill called Maruyama.</p> + + <p>After about three-quarters of an hour's ride in the + <i>jinrikiska</i>, we were deposited at the bottom of a flight + of steps, which appeared to lead to a temple, but by which we + reached the hotel in about five minutes. We were received by + servants, who bowed to the ground, but who did not speak a word + which we could understand. The rooms looked clean and + comfortable, and the dining-room boasted a table and six + chairs, besides several screens and <i>hibatchis</i>. The + bedrooms, too, had beds, screens, and washstands; quite an + unexpected luxury. Still more so was a strip of glass about + half-way up the screens, through which we could admire the fine + prospect. Anything in the shape of a transparent window is a + complete novelty in a Japanese house, where, in winter, you + feel as if you were imprisoned. The view from the verandah of + the hotel over the pretty fantastic garden, the temple grounds, + the town of Kioto, and the mountains in the distance was an + endless source of delight to me.</p> + + <p>The servants soon produced a luncheon, excellently well + cooked; and' directly we had finished it we sallied forth again + to see what we could before dark. First we went to the temple + of Gion, a fine building, standing in extensive grounds, and + surrounded by smaller temples and houses for the priests. The + Dutch envoys used to stay here when they were brought through + the country, like prisoners, to pay their annual tribute for + being allowed to <span class="pagenum">Page + 340<a name="Page_340" + id="Page_340"></a></span>trade with Japan. They were + subjected to all kinds of indignities, and used to be made + to dance and sing, pretend to be drunk, and play all sorts + of pranks, for the amusement of the whole court as well as + for the Mikado and the empress, hidden behind a grating.</p> + + <p>From Gion we went to see other temples, and wandered about + under the large conifers of all kinds, trying to find out the + quarters of the British Legation for some time, until Sir Harry + Parkes returned. The rooms at his residence were comfortable, + but cold-looking, for mats and paper screens do not look nice + in a frost. There were tables and chairs and paraffin lamps, + but no bedsteads, only about a dozen cotton and silk quilts, + some of which were supposed to serve as a couch, while others + were to be used as coverings.</p> + + <p>Sir Harry has had, I fear, a great deal of trouble about the + yacht. She is the first vessel of the kind ever seen in Japan, + with the exception of the one sent out in 1858 as a present + from the Queen to the then Tycoon, and now used by the Mikado. + The officials, it seems, cannot make the 'Sunbeam' out. 'Is she + a man-of-war? We know what that is.' 'No.' 'Is she a merchant + ship?' 'No; she is a yacht.' But what can be the object of a + vessel without guns is quite beyond their comprehension. At + last it has been settled that, in order to be like other + nations, the Japanese officials will not force us to enter at + the Custom House, or to pay a fine of sixty dollars a day for + not doing so. As a matter of precedent, it was important that + the point should be settled, though I hardly imagine that many + yachts will follow our example, and come out to Japan through + the Straits of Magellan and across the Pacific.</p> + + <p>As it was now growing late, we returned to the hotel for + dinner. The night was cold, and <i>hibatchis</i> and lamps + alike failed to warm the thinly walled and paper-screened room. + <span class="pagenum">Page 341<a name="Page_341" + id="Page_341"></a></span></p> + + <p>Sir Harry Parkes came and spent the evening with us, and + taught us more about Japan in two or three hours than we could + have learned by much study of many books. The fact is, that in + this fast-changing country guide-books get out of date in two + or three years. Besides which, Sir Harry has been one of the + chief actors in many of the most prominent events we have + recently been reading about. To hear him describe graphically + the wars of 1868, and the Christian persecutions in 1870, with + the causes that led to the revolution, and the effect it has + had on the country, was indeed interesting. Still more so was + his account of his journey hither to force the newly emerged + Mikado and his Ministers to sign the treaty, which had already + received the assent (of course valueless) of the deposed + Tycoon.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, February 7th</i>.—A misty but much + warmer morning succeeded a wet night. At 8.30 Sir Harry Parkes + and two other gentlemen arrived, and we all started at once in + jinrikishas to see what could be seen in the limited time at + our disposal. We went first to the temple of Gion Chiosiu, + described elaborately in books by other travellers. It is + specially interesting to Europeans, as it was the temple + assigned to the foreign envoys when they paid their first visit + to the Mikado in 1868. Sir Harry Parkes showed us all their + apartments, and the large though subsidiary temple once used as + a hospital, and we afterwards went to see the service performed + in the temple. A dozen bonzes, or priests, were sitting round + in a circle, chanting monotonously from ponderous volumes, with + an occasional accompaniment from a gong or drum. Incense was + being burned, vestments worn, processions formed, and prayers + offered to Buddha to intercede with the Supreme Being. The + accessories and surroundings were of course different, but the + ceremonial struck me as being much the same as that in use at + Roman Catholic places of worship. Mr. Simpson, however, thinks + differently. He says:</p> + + <p>'I was only a month in Japan, and that is far too short + <span class="pagenum">Page 342<a name="Page_342" + id="Page_342"></a></span> a time for anything like serious + study; but I was much struck by the temples, and I find I + have some notes in my book comparing them with the Jewish. + How any direct connection could possibly exist, is far + beyond my powers of conjecture; but I will state the points + of resemblance, and leave others to inquire further and + collect additional information. Wood and bronze to this day + furnish the material of which temples are constructed in + Japan, with stone as a base. Such also were the materials of + Solomon's temple. There are enclosures round each court or + shrine, and sometimes these courts are three in number. + Hills or groves are usually sites for a temple, the ascent + to which is by a long flight of steps; usually two flights + give access to the shrine. One is long, straight, and steep, + for the men; the other, less steep, but curved, is for the + women. It will be remembered that it was the great stairs at + Solomon's temple that so impressed the Queen of Sheba. Small + shrines or miniature temples, called Tenno Samma, or + "Heaven's Lord," are carried on staves, like the Ark of the + Covenant, at their religious ceremonies. The inner shrine, + or Holy of Holies, is small, and a cube, or nearly so, in + proportion. It is usually detached behind the other portions + of the temple, the door being closed, so that it cannot be + seen into, and it generally contains, not an image, but a + tablet, or what the Japanese call a "Gohei," or piece of + paper, cut so that it hangs down in folds on each side. In + the early days of writing, a tablet was a book, a stylus the + pen. The stone on which the law was inscribed was only a + form of the book, and the Chinese ancestral tablet, or other + tablet, in a temple, is only a variety of this book form. + These "Goheis" are so common in Japan, and occupy so + important a place in all their temples, that I had a great + desire to know what they originally meant; but as on many + questions of this kind I could get no information, the only + suggestion which presented itself to me was, that it might + be some form of the book, for the book was a very sacred + <span class="pagenum">Page 343<a name="Page_343" + id="Page_343"></a></span>thing in past time, and that which + is yet called the "Ark," in a Jewish synagogue, contains now + nothing but a book. There is a distinct priesthood who wear + vestments, and they use incense, music, and bells. There are + two religions in Japan, Buddhism and Shintooism; the latter + being the primitive faith, and the former an importation + from China. The forms of the two have become slightly mixed, + both in the construction of their temples and in the + ceremonial; but the remarks I have just made apply + particularly to the Shintoo religion.'</p> + + <p>One of the late acts of the government has been to declare + the Shintoo, as the old religion of the country, to be the only + State faith. This is the disestablishment of Buddhism, but it + does not imply its suppression. The Buddhist priests complain + very much, saying that their temples are not now so popular, + and many are being closed. Speculators are buying up their fine + bronze bells, and sending them home to be coined into English + pennies and halfpennies. Changes in faith present many strange + aspects, and this is certainly a curious one.</p> + + <p>We strolled about the temple grounds, and ascended the hill + to see the famous bell, which is the second biggest in Japan. + The immense beam which strikes it was unlashed from the + platform for our edification, and the bell sent forth a + magnificent sound, pealing over the city and through the woods. + At one of the gates there is a curious staircase, leading up to + the top, and there, over the gate, is seated a figure of + Buddha, surrounded by twelve disciples, all carved in wood and + coloured. They are quite worth a scramble up to see.</p> + + <p>From Chiosiu we went right across the city to the temple of + Nishni Hongangi. On our way we were more than once stopped and + turned off the direct road, which was kept by soldiers for the + passage of the Mikado to worship at the tombstone of his + innumerable ancestors, real or imaginary. Being a spiritual + Emperor, he has to be well <span class="pagenum">Page + 344<a name="Page_344" + id="Page_344"></a></span>kept up to his religious duties, + and is always being sent off to worship at some shrine or + another, in order to maintain his popularity with the + people, his Ministers meanwhile managing the affairs of + state. Tanjo and Ikawura went off in haste to-day to Tokio, + as there are rumours of a rebellion in the south.</p> + + <p>Nishni Hongangi is one of the largest and finest temples we + have yet seen, even in spite of a large portion having been + destroyed by the disastrous fire of 1864. The gates are + splendidly ornamented, with carved chrysanthemum flowers. The + centre temple is very fine, and is surrounded by smaller rooms, + all decorated by the best Japanese artists of about two hundred + years ago. Notice had been sent that the English Minister was + coming with a party of friends, and everything had accordingly + been prepared for our reception. In some places they had even + put down carpets, to obviate the necessity of our having to + take off our boots. The Abbot was out, which I much regretted, + for he belongs to the Montos, the most advanced sect of + Buddhism, and has more than once remarked to English visitors + that he thought their own principles were so enlightened that + they were paving the way for a higher form of religion, in the + shape of Christianity—rather a startling confession to + come from the lips of a Buddhist priest.</p> + + <p>After spending a long time among the paintings, + wood-carvings, lacquers, bronzes, and gardens, we left the + temple, and crossed several court-yards, before the main street + was reached. Then, after a short walk, we came to another + beautiful garden, laid out like a miniature park, with lakes, + bridges, rocks, streams, canals, pavilions, &c. All these + surround a house built by the celebrated Tycoon, Tako Sama, in + the fifteenth century. Here, again, everything was prepared for + our reception. Fires were lighted, flowers arranged, carpets + laid down, and fruit and cakes placed in readiness, with + <i>hibatchis</i> to warm each and all of us. We went all over + the house, which differs little from a Japanese + <span class="pagenum">Page 345<a name="Page_345" + id="Page_345"></a></span>house of the present day, except + that a higher style of art was employed in its construction + and decoration.</p> + + <p>From here we went to quite another quarter of the city to + see what was formerly the Tycoon's palace, now used as a sort + of police office. It is built on the same plan of three + enclosures as all the <i>yashgis</i>, though on a very + different scale from the one at Tokio. There, the Tycoon reigns + in undisturbed sovereignty. Here, he appears as a humble + servant of his rightful master—really his prisoner. The + late Tycoon, after the last battle, fought at this place, fled + to his castle at Osaka, where, though he might have held out + for an indefinite period, he preferred to surrender. Two of his + Ministers came to him and represented that he must not only + think of himself, but of the party who supported the Shogunate, + and that as he had betrayed them by false hopes he had no + choice but to perform Hara-kiru. This he refused to do, + although they set him the example; and he is now living as a + private individual on an estate in the country, not far from + Tokio, where he amuses himself with hunting, shooting, and + fishing. It is said that it is possible he may one day join the + ministry of the present Mikado.</p> + + <p>From the Tycoon's palace we drove to the 'Toshio,' or court + quarter of the town, where the Mikado and all his relatives + live, in palaces, surrounded by large gardens, enclosed in + whitewashed walls. We saw the whole of Tako Sama's household + furniture and wearing apparel, the celebrated swords of + Yoritiome, called the 'knee-cutter' and the 'beard-cutter,' + from their wonderful sharpness, and many other interesting + objects.</p> + + <p>Here we said good-bye to Sir Harry Parkes, and returned + across the town by another route to our hotel to lunch, after + which we made another expedition to one or two more temples, + and then to a pawnbroker's shop, in the heart of the city, + which had been strongly recommended to us. The exterior did not + look promising; the <span class="pagenum">Page + 346<a name="Page_346" + id="Page_346"></a></span> shop itself was small and dirty; + and they had to take some very filthy garments out of the + way before we could enter. Once inside, however, it was a + very different story. They showed us splendid old + embroideries, and quantities of second-hand court dresses, + embroidered in gold, silver, and colours, with exquisite + designs. The Empress has thirteen ladies of honour, who wear + their best dresses only twice, and then sell them: hence the + pawnbrokers abundant stock.</p> + + <p>Wherever we went a large but perfectly civil crowd followed + us, and people ran on before to tell others to come to their + doors and look at us, though we were under the charge of an + officer and two men. It was now getting dark, and we were very + tired; so we at last turned back, and once more climbed those + weary steps to our hotel. To-night there is some + <i>fête</i> going on in this suburb, and the whole place + is alive with lights, dancing, music, and tum-tums.</p> + + <p>After dinner all our purchases arrived, each accompanied by + at least four or five men. Other people had heard of our visit, + and had brought more things for us to look at; so that the room + soon resembled a bazaar. At last we got rid of them, having + settled that they should pack our things and take them down to + Kobe, where they would be paid for. The Japanese shopkeepers, + though difficult to deal with, are incorruptible when once the + bargain is made. They pack most carefully, frequently adding + boxes, bags, and baskets, not originally included in the + purchase, in order that the articles may travel more safely. + The smallest article is sure to be put in, and the greatest + care is taken of everything, even if they know you do not mean + to open the cases for months.</p> + + <p>If it were only warmer, how delightful it would all be! The + cold spoils everything to a certain extent. At night we have to + choose whether to be half frozen in our beds, or stifled with + the fumes of charcoal from the <i>hibatchis</i>. + <span class="pagenum">Page 347<a name="Page_347" + id="Page_347"></a></span></p> + + <p><i>Thursday, February 8th</i>.—The sunrise over the + city, with the river and mountains beyond, was superb. We + breakfasted at eight; but even by that hour the courtyard and + passage were crowded with vendors of curiosities of all sorts, + and no doubt great bargains might have been picked up. But we + had no time to lose, for our train started at 9.30, and we had + a delightfully rapid drive to the station through the sunny + streets of Kioto.</p> + + <p>Arrived at Kobe, we went first to lunch with some friends, + and immediately after hastened on board to receive the foreign + Ministers and other friends; and did not land again that + evening.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, February 9th</i>.—We left by ten o'clock + train for Osaka, which has been called the Venice of Japan. It + is intersected by innumerable rivers and canals, and boats were + continually making their appearance at points where they were + least expected, as our <i>jinrikisha</i> men hurried us along + the narrow and not very sweet-smelling streets. We went so fast + that, more than once before we reached the Mint, I thought we + should have been tipped into one of the canals, as we turned a + sharp corner. Our men upset the baskets and stalls that + encroached on the road, in the most unceremonious manner; but + their proprietors did not seem to mind, many of them quietly + moving their wares out of the way as they heard the shouts that + announced our approach. The smell in the fish-market was + disgusting, and enough to poison the air for miles around, but + the people did not seem to mind it in the least.</p> + + <p>At last we left the river and town, and, climbing a slight + eminence, crossed the first moat by a stone bridge, and reached + the guard-house on the other side. There was some hesitation at + first about admitting us; but it was soon overcome. This + castle, the last stronghold of the Tycoon, is built on exactly + the same plan as the <i>yashgis</i> we had already visited, but + much stronger, being composed of enormous blocks of stone. One + wonders how human <span class="pagenum">Page + 348<a name="Page_348" + id="Page_348"></a></span>labour could ever have transported + them from their quarry to this place, for some measured 40 + ft. long by 20 ft. high. We crossed the three moats and the + three enclosures, now all full of barracks and soldiers. In + the very centre, the old well and a little square tower are + still standing, part of the Tycoon's original residence, + which was destroyed by fire. The view from the top over the + town and surrounding country is very fine. You can see + countless streams coming from the mountains, and flowing + into Odawarra, on which Osaka is situated. The course of the + river itself could be traced to the bay; and the line of + coast to Kobe, and the far-off mountains in the Inland Sea + were plainly visible.</p> + + <p>On returning to the Mint we found luncheon awaiting us, and + afterwards spent a pleasant time looking at a wonderful + collection of curios.</p> + + <p>The Imperial Mint of Japan is a large handsome building, in + great force just now, for the whole of the old money is being + called in and replaced by the government. The contrast between + the two moneys is very great. The ancient coinage consisted of + long thin oval obangs and shobangs, worth from two dollars to + eighteen pounds each, square silver itzeboos, and square copper + pieces, with a hole in the centre; while that which is taking + its place is similar to European coinage, and is marked in + English characters, and ornamented with Japanese devices, such + as the phoenix and the dragon. It did not seem worth while to + go minutely over the Mint, as it is arranged on exactly the + same principle as the one in London, and the processes are + carried out in the same manner.</p> + + <p>Osaka used to be the emporium of all the inland commerce, + and was considered the pearl of Japanese cities. After the + revolution, and when the Mint was built, there was some + intention of making it the capital of the empire. That idea + was, however, abandoned; and the inconvenience of having the + Mint so far away from the seat of government is + <span class="pagenum">Page 349<a name="Page_349" + id="Page_349"></a></span>greatly felt, all the bullion + having to be sent backwards and forwards at great expense by + sea. Commerce has now almost deserted Osaka, owing to the + difficulty experienced by large ships in anchoring near the + town, and the impossibility of their crossing the bar. The + foreign consuls and representatives have all left the place + for the newly established settlement at Kobe, where they + feel safer, with men-of-war at anchor just under their + windows.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_364" + id="Illus_364"></a> <img src="images/t_364.jpg" + width="240" + height="113" + alt="Illustration: Wayside Travellers" + title="Illustration: Wayside Travellers" /><br /> + <b>Wayside Travellers</b><br /> + <a href="images/364.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>There was just time to go round some of the old streets, and + to some of the shops, before the hour by which we were due at + the station. Osaka is famous for its waxworks and theatres. + Five of the best of these have, however, been burnt down within + the last eighteen months, with terrible loss of life. We heard + that a short time ago there was nearly being serious trouble, + in consequence of one of the managers having produced on the + stage, in a most objectionable manner, a representation of the + cruel and unprovoked assassination of an officer and two men, + part of a boat's crew of a French ship. The English and French + consuls went to the governor of the town, who promised that the + piece should be stopped, and the obnoxious placards announcing + the performance removed at once. But his instructions were not + complied with, for the next day the piece was again performed, + and the placards were still there. Some French sailors, luckily + accompanied <span class="pagenum">Page 350<a name="Page_350" + id="Page_350"></a></span> by their officers, saw the latter + and wanted to tear them down; but they were persuaded to + wait while the consuls were telegraphed for. They came at + once, and again saw the governor, who sent some soldiers to + stop the play and remove the bills; and so the affair ended + peaceably.</p> + + <p>We reached Kobe about seven o'clock, and went on board at + once to dinner.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, February 10th</i>.—We were to have gone + early this morning to Arrima, a village in the mountains, + situated among groves of bamboos, where there are mineral + springs and a hot-water bath, in which people bathe in the old + style. But the weather was impossibly bad for our intended + expedition, with showers of snow and sleet. We waited till + half-past eleven, and then landed and talked of going to Osaka + again by train; but finally decided that even this was not + practicable, and that we had better stay and potter about at + Kobe and Hiogo. The children set out to buy toys, whilst I went + with a lady to pay another visit to the white horse and monkeys + at the temple, and then walked on to a waterfall, prettily + situated in a ravine, a little way behind the town. We + afterwards visited several pawnbrokers' shops, at all of which + there was something interesting to be seen. Many are perfect + museums; but their proprietors never seem to care much to show + you what they have, unless you are accompanied by a resident or + some one they know. Then they invite you into the iron + fire-proof 'godown' or store, at the back, and out of funny + little boxes and bags and parcels produce all sorts of rare and + curious things which have been sent to them to be sold, or + which they may possibly have bought themselves. It is not of + the slightest use to go to the large shops, full of things, if + you want anything really good, for you will only find there + articles specially prepared for the European and American + market.</p> + + <p>I am very glad to hear that Dr. Dresser is here, collecting, + lecturing, and trying to persuade the Japanese to + <span class="pagenum">Page 351<a name="Page_351" + id="Page_351"></a></span>adhere to their own forms and taste + in art and decoration. It is a great pity to observe the + decadence of native art, and at the same time to see how + much better the old things are than the new. A true Japanese + artist never repeats himself, and consequently never makes + an exact pair of anything. His designs agree generally, and + his vases are more or less alike, without being a precise + match. He throws in a spray of flowers, a bird, or a fan, as + the fancy strikes him, and the same objects are therefore + never placed in exactly the same relative position. Modern + articles are made precisely alike, not only in pairs, but by + the dozen and the hundred.</p> + + <p>There are beautiful bantams to be seen in some of the shops + here; but they cannot be bought, as they are private pets. They + seem generally very small, and one I saw to-day had his head + far behind his tail, which divided in the middle outwards, and + fell forward on either side of his neck in the most + extraordinary way. How he picked up his food and got through + life, I am sure I don't know. There are plenty of little + Japanese dogs; but they are not seen to advantage this cold + weather, and there would be great difficulty in getting them + home.</p> + + <p>I bought some fine bantams at Yokohama, and a whole cage + full of rice-birds. They are the dearest little things, and + spend most of the day bathing and twittering, occasionally + getting all together into one nest, with their twenty-five + heads peeping out. They are exactly like a magnified grain of + rice, with legs and a bill. I hope I shall take them home + alive, as they have borne the cold very well so far. We have + also some mandarin ducks on board, and some gold and silver + fish with two tails. Our sailors have over a hundred birds of + their own, which never appear on deck, except on very sunny + days. I don't know where they can keep them, unless they stow + them away in their Japanese cabinets.</p> + + <p>We went on board about dark, and a few friends came to + dinner. <span class="pagenum">Page 352<a name="Page_352" + id="Page_352"></a></span></p> + + <p><i>Sunday, February 11th</i>.—About 7 a.m., two + Japanese officers came on board with a message which nobody + could understand. When we went on deck, we saw that all the + ships were dressed, and concluded that we had been asked to do + the same; but we thought it better to send ashore to ascertain + positively. The next difficulty was to get a Japanese flag. Tom + went on board the 'Thabor,' a Japanese ship, to borrow one, and + found everything was in bustle and confusion, news having + arrived from Kiusiu that the rebels were mustering in great + force, and that they had seized some ships. The 'Thabor,' 'Mihu + Maru,' and three others, are therefore to go through the Inland + Sea to Nagasaki this afternoon.</p> + + <p>The Japanese admiral sent word early this morning that he + would come on board at two o'clock with some of his captains, + and the French admiral also expressed a hope that it would be + convenient to receive him and his captains at three. Their + visits occupied nearly all the afternoon. We afterwards landed + with the French admiral, paid some farewell visits, and went to + look at a collection of old lacquer and Satsuma china, before + we returned to the yacht.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 353<a name="Page_353" + id="Page_353"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" + id="CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">THE INLAND SEA.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>Dipped in the lines of sunset, wreathed in + zones</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>The clouds are resting + on their mountain thrones</i>;<br /></span> + <span><i>One peak alone exalts its glacier + crest</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>A golden paradise + above the rest</i>.<br /></span> <span><i>Thither the + day with lingering steps retires</i>,<br /></span> + <span><i>And in its own blue element + expires</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Monday, February 12th</i>.—Fires were lighted at 4 + a.m., and by six we were steaming slowly out of the beautiful + bay of Kobe. It was a cold bright morning, with a strong head + wind, increasing every moment as we proceeded, until, in the + straits of Akashi, it became almost impossible to make any way + against it. There was not much sea, but the wind impeded our + progress so much, that it was at last reduced to one mile + instead of nine an hour. The straits are very fine, and the old + castle presents an admirable specimen of the architecture of a + Daimio's residence.</p> + + <p>We proceeded across the Harima Nada, where we were more or + less exposed to the open sea, and where we took more water on + board than we had done in the gale before arriving at Yokohama. + There were no big waves, but we rolled tremendously, and the + spray came over us, though the mere force of the wind seemed to + keep the sea down.</p> + + <p>After struggling until twelve o'clock, and having done but + little good for the last three hours, Tom determined to run + back, and in a short time we found ourselves once more at + anchor in the harbour of Kobe. It was a work of considerable + difficulty, owing to the strong wind and tide, to steer + <span class="pagenum">Page 354<a name="Page_354" + id="Page_354"></a></span>safely among the numerous vessels, + and for a few minutes we thought we were aground, as we did + not make the slightest progress, though the engines were + working ahead full speed. The proveedor's boat came out to + us as soon as we were perceived, and we landed in her; but + it was as much as the six stout oarsmen could do to make way + against the wind.</p> + + <p>We went for a walk, or rather a scramble, to the waterfall, + half-way up to the Temple of the Moon. Much of the ground was + covered with snow, the streams were frozen at the sides, and + there were hanging icicles to be seen, six feet in length; and + yet on either side were camellias and tea-trees covered with + red and white blossoms, orange-trees, laden with fruit; + gold-fish swimming about in ponds, overhung with maidenhair + fern, besides pteris and hothouse ferns, shaded by bamboos, + palms, and castor-oil plants. The order of vegetation seems to + be as much reversed as everything else in this strange country. + In England all those plants would require conservatories, or at + least sheltered spots, and the greatest care, instead of being + exposed to frost and snow.</p> + + <p>Getting on board again was even a more difficult business + than landing had been; but we arrived at last without + mishap.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, February 13th</i>.—The wind dropped at + sunset, and as it continued calm all night, Tom ordered fires + to be lighted at 4 a.m. By six o'clock, however, it was blowing + harder than ever, and we therefore decided to make an excursion + to Arrima instead of attempting another start.</p> + + <p>We went ashore to make the necessary arrangements, and it + was settled that we should start at ten o'clock, which we did, + with the Consulate constable as our guide.</p> + + <p>We had three men to each <i>jinrikisha</i>, and went along + at a merry pace through the long straggling towns of Kobe and + Hiogo. The cold was intense, and before we started our poor + <i>jinrikisha</i> men were shivering until they nearly shook + <span class="pagenum">Page 355<a name="Page_355" + id="Page_355"></a></span>us out of the vehicles. Soon they + were streaming with perspiration, and at our first + halting-place they took off almost all their garments, + though it was as much as we could do to keep warm in our + furs and wraps. We waited while they partook copiously of + hot tea and bowls of rice, and bought new straw shoes, or + rather sandals, for less than a farthing a pair.</p> + + <p>To-day being the Japanese New Year's Day, all the little + shrines in the houses and along the road were prettily + decorated, and had offerings of rice, <i>saki</i>, and fruit + deposited upon them. The spirits of the departed are supposed + to come down and partake, not of the things themselves, but of + the subtle invisible essence that rises from them. The road now + became very pretty, winding through the valleys, climbing up + and dipping down the various hills, and passing through + picturesque villages, where all the people, leaving their meals + or their games, came out to look at us, while some of the + children scampered on to secure a good view of the foreigners, + and others ran away frightened and screaming. They were all + dressed in dark blue clothes, turned up with red, with bright + embroidered <i>obis</i> and flowers in their elaborately + dressed hair. I have managed to get some dolls' wigs, which + give a good idea of the various styles of hair-dressing.</p> + + <p>In rather more than three hours we reached Arrima, a village + far more beautifully situated than any we had seen, in the very + centre of the mountains, where a dozen valleys converge into + one centre. On one side are mineral springs, on the other a + river. Bamboos grow luxuriantly on all sides, and the + inhabitants of the various valleys obtain their livelihood by + manufacturing from them all sorts of articles: boxes for every + conceivable purpose; baskets, fine and coarse, large and small, + useful and ornamental, coloured and plain; brushes, pipes, + battledores and shuttlecocks, sticks, spoons, knives and forks, + sauce ladles, boats, lamps, cradles, &c. + <span class="pagenum">Page 356<a name="Page_356" + id="Page_356"></a></span></p> + + <p>The first glimpse of the village is lovely; that from the + bridge that crosses the river is still more so. We clambered up + narrow streets, with quaint carved houses and overhanging + balconies, till we reached a tea-house, kept by a closely + shaven bonze, or priest. He seemed very pleased to see us, and + bowed and shook hands over and over again. He placed his whole + house at our disposal, and a very clean, pretty, and + well-arranged house it was, with a lovely little formal garden, + ornamented with mimic temples and bridges of ice, fashioned by + the hard frost, with but little assistance from the hand of + man. Bits of wood and stone, a few graceful fern-leaves and + sprays of bamboo, and a trickling stream of water produced the + most fairy-like crystalline effects imaginable. If only some + good fairy could, with a touch of her wand, preserve it all + intact until a few months hence, what a delight it would be in + the hot summer weather!</p> + + <p>To-day the paper house was indeed cold; but even so slight a + shelter from the bitter wind was acceptable, though we + regretted the screens could not be opened to enable us to + admire the prospect on all sides. The luncheon basket being + quickly unpacked, the good priest warmed our food and produced + a bottle of port wine, which he mulled for our benefit. Cheered + and refreshed we proceeded on our way, leaving him much + delighted with what seemed to us but a small recompense for his + courtesy.</p> + + <p>Every house and shop in those narrow picturesque streets was + a study in itself, and so were the quaint groups of people we + met, and who gazed eagerly at us. We looked into the public + baths, two oblong tanks, into which the mineral springs came + bubbling up, thick and yellow, and strongly impregnated with + iron, at a temperature of 112°. They are covered in, and + there is a rough passage round them. Here, in the bathing + season, people of both sexes stand in rows, packed as tight as + herrings in a barrel, and there are just as many outside + waiting their turn to <span class="pagenum">Page + 357<a name="Page_357" + id="Page_357"></a></span>enter. To-day there were only two + bathers, immersed up to their chins in the steaming water. + They had left all their clothes at home, and would shortly + have to pass through the streets without any covering, + notwithstanding the cold.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_372" + id="Illus_372"></a> <img src="images/t_372.jpg" + width="240" + height="155" + alt="Illustration: Arrima. The Village of Bamboo Basket Work" + title="Illustration: Arrima. The Village of Bamboo Basket Work" /> + <br /> + <b>Arrima. The Village of Bamboo Basket Work</b><br /> + <a href="images/372.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>From the baths we went to some of the best basket shops, + where the beauty and cheapness of the articles exposed for sale + offered great temptations. We had to disturb our + <i>jinrikiska</i> men, who were enjoying their frugal meal at a + separate tea-house. It was beautifully served, and as clean and + nicely cooked as possible, though consisting of viands which we + might not have fancied, such as various kinds of fish, seaweed, + sea-snails (<i>bêche de mer</i>), and rice. Each man had + his own little table and eight or ten separate dishes, a bottle + of <i>saki</i>, tea-pipe, and <i>hibatchi</i>, arranged exactly + as ours had been at the tea-house at Yokohama. How well they + managed their chop-sticks, how quickly they shovelled the food + down, and how clean they left each dish! Habit is + everything.</p> + + <p>We were anxious to make the best of our way home, and + starting at four, with but a short stop at the halfway + tea-house, <span class="pagenum">Page 358<a name="Page_358" + id="Page_358"></a></span>we reached the hotel soon after + seven, having taken less than an hour to come five miles + over a very bad road, an inch deep in mud. So much for a + 'man-power carriage,' the literal translation of the word + <i>jinrikisha</i><a name="FNanchor_18_18" + id="FNanchor_18_18">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_18_18" + class="fnanchor">[18]</a> Soon after an excellent dinner we + returned on board, so as to be ready for an early start + to-morrow morning.</p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_18_18" + id="Footnote_18_18"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> + Or 'pull-man-car,' as it is sometimes called.</p> + </div> + + <p><i>Wednesday, February 14th</i>.—We were called at 4 + a.m. Fires were lighted, but before steam was up the wind had + risen; so our start was once more postponed to the afternoon. + We steamed out to the buoy, from among the shipping, in order + to be able to get away more easily at night. The wind generally + goes down at sunset, and Tom hoped that, by taking our + departure then, we should get through the worst part of the + Inland Sea before the wind again rose with the sun.</p> + + <p>After breakfast we went ashore, and dispersed in different + directions, to meet again at the hotel for luncheon. Then we + all again separated, the children going to the circus, whilst I + took a drive, with a pair of black and white Hakodadi ponies, + to the foot of the hills behind the town.</p> + + <p>It was a pleasant circuit by pretty valleys, and brought us + back to the town by a different road. I went to pick up the + children at the circus, and found them just coming out, with + delighted faces, having most thoroughly enjoyed themselves. + They went on board to tea, but Mabelle and I went with the + Consul in <i>jinrikishas</i> to a Japanese theatre at Hiogo. + The streets were crowded with holiday-makers; for to-day is the + first of the Chinese new year, as yesterday was the first of + the Japanese new year. The floor of the theatre was crowded + with people, all squatting on their heels, each with his or her + chow-chow box and <i>hibatchi</i> or brazier of burning + charcoal to keep themselves warm. The performance frequently + goes on for ten or twelve hours, with short intervals and whole + families come and take up their abode at the theatre for twelve + hours at a <span class="pagenum">Page 359<a name="Page_359" + id="Page_359"></a></span>time. The acting was not at all + bad, and the performers were beautifully dressed.</p> + + <p>We did not stay very long at the theatre, but were soon + tearing back again through the streets to the Consulate. These + quick rides in a <i>jinrikisha</i>, especially at night, are + very amusing. You have the pleasure of going at a high speed, + and yet, being on a level with the people, you can see much + more of them and of their manners than would be possible in a + carriage.</p> + + <p>When we reached the Consulate we found the chief of the + police of the foreign settlement waiting for the Consul, to + inform him that Japanese soldiers were patrolling the town with + fixed bayonets, alleging that information had been sent to the + Governor that some of the rebels were in the hills at the back + of the town, and might appear at any moment. The ships-of-war + were to be communicated with at once for the protection of the + inhabitants. They do not expect a general attack here, but seem + to think the rebels' plan is to creep up by degrees to Osaka, + where the Mikado is shortly expected to stay, and take + possession of his person and the imperial treasure at one + blow.</p> + + <p>When I got on board the 'Sunbeam' again, I found that steam + was up and all was ready for starting; but the wind was still + strong against us, and it was evidently necessary again to wait + until four o'clock to-morrow morning.</p> + + <p>We were rolling a good deal, and, coming along the + engine-room passage, my foot slipped, a door banged to, and my + thumb was caught in the hinge and terribly crushed. Dressing it + was a very painful affair, as the doctor had to ascertain + whether the bone was broken, and I fainted during the + operation. At last I was carried to my cabin and put to bed, + after taking a strong dose of chloral to soothe the agonising + pain.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, February 15th</i>.—I wonder if anybody + who has not experienced it can realise the stupefying, helpless + sensation of being roused up from a sound sleep, in the + <span class="pagenum">Page 360<a name="Page_360" + id="Page_360"></a></span>middle of the night, on board ship, + by the cry of 'Fire!' and finding oneself enveloped in a + smoke so dense as to render everything invisible.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_375" + id="Illus_375"></a> <img src="images/t_375.jpg" + width="170" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: The Yacht on Fire" + title="Illustration: The Yacht on Fire" /><br /> + <b>The Yacht on Fire</b><br /> + <a href="images/375.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>At 2.30 a.m. I was awakened by a great noise and a loud cry + of 'The ship is on fire!' followed by Mr. Bingham rushing into + our cabin to arouse us. At first I could hardly realise where + we were, or what was happening, as I was half stupid with + chloral, pain, and smoke, which was issuing from each side of + the staircase in dense volumes. My first thought was for the + children, but I found they had not been forgotten. Rolled up in + blankets, they were already in transit to the deck-house. In + the meantime Mr. Bingham had drenched the flames with every + available jug of water, and Tom had roused the crew, and made + them screw the hose on to the pump. They were afraid to open + the hatches, to discover where the fire was, until the hose and + <i>extincteurs</i> were ready to work, as they did not know + whether or not the hold was on fire, and the whole ship might + burst <span class="pagenum">Page 361<a name="Page_361" + id="Page_361"></a></span>into a blaze the moment the air was + admitted. Allen soon appeared with an <i>extincteur</i> on + his back, and the mate with the hose. Then the cupboard in + Mr. Bingham's room was opened, and burning cloaks, dresses, + boxes of curios, portmanteaus, &c., were hauled out, + and, by a chain of men, sent on deck, where they were + drenched with sea-water or thrown overboard. Moving these + things caused the flames to increase in vigour, and the + <i>extincteur</i> was used freely, and with the greatest + success. It is an invaluable invention, especially for a + yacht, where there are so many holes and corners which it + would be impossible to reach by ordinary means. All this + time the smoke was pouring in volumes from the cupboard on + the other side, and from under the nursery fireplace. The + floors were pulled up, and the partitions were pulled down, + until at last the flames were got under. The holds were next + examined. No damage had been done there; but the cabin floor + was completely burnt through, and the lead from the nursery + fireplace was running about, melted by the heat.</p> + + <p>The explanation of the cause of the fire is very simple. + Being a bitterly cold night, a roaring fire had been made up in + the nursery, but about half-past ten the servants thought it + looked rather dangerous and raked it out. The ashpan was not + large enough, however, to hold the hot embers, which soon made + the tiles red-hot. The woodwork caught fire, and had been + smouldering for hours, when the nurse fortunately woke and + discovered the state of affairs. She tried to rouse the other + maids, but they were stupefied with the smoke, and so she + rushed off at once to the doctor and Mr. Bingham. The former + seized a child under each arm, wrapped them in blankets, and + carried them off to the deck-house, Mabelle and the maids + following, with more blankets and rugs, hastily snatched up. + The children were as good as possible. They never cried nor + made the least fuss, but composed themselves in the deck-house + to sleep for the remainder of the <span class="pagenum">Page + 362<a name="Page_362" + id="Page_362"></a></span> night, as if it were all a matter + of course. When I went to see them, little Muriel remarked: + 'If the yacht is on fire, mamma, had not baby and I better + get our ulsters, and go with Emma in the boat to the hotel, + to be out of the way?' It is the third time in their short + lives that they have been picked out of bed in the middle of + the night and carried off in blankets away from a fire, so I + suppose they are getting quite used to it.</p> + + <p>There can be no doubt that the preservation of the yacht + from very serious damage, if not from complete destruction, was + due to the prompt and efficient manner in which the + <i>extincteurs</i> were used. It was not our first experience + of the value of this invention; for, not very long before we + undertook our present expedition, a fire broke out in our house + in London, on which occasion the <i>extincteurs</i> we + fortunately had at hand rendered most excellent service in + subduing the flames.</p> + + <p>By half-past three all danger was past, and we began to + settle down again, though it took a long time to get rid of the + smoke.</p> + + <p>At four o'clock we weighed anchor, and once more made a + start from Kobe, and passed through the Straits of Akashi. The + wind was dead ahead, but not so strong as when we made our + previous attempts. It was bitterly cold, the thermometer, in a + sheltered place, being only one degree above freezing, and the + breeze from the snowy mountains cutting like a knife.</p> + + <p>We were all disappointed with our sail to-day; perhaps + because we had heard so much of the extreme beauty of the + scenery, and this is not the best time of year for seeing it. + The hills are all brown, instead of being covered with + luxuriant vegetation, and all looked bleak and barren, though + the outlines of the mountain ranges were very fine. We were + reminded of the west coast of Scotland, the Lofoden Islands in + the Arctic Circle, and the tamer portions of the scenery of the + Straits of Magellan. <span class="pagenum">Page + 363<a name="Page_363" + id="Page_363"></a></span></p> + + <p>After passing through the Straits, we crossed the Harima + Nada—rather a wider portion of the sea—and then + entered the intricate channels among the islands once more. + There are three thousand of them altogether, so one may take it + for granted that the navigation is by no means easy. The + currents and tides are strong, sunken rocks are frequent, and + the greatest care is requisite. Indeed, many people at Yokohama + urged Tom to take a pilot.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_378" + id="Illus_378"></a> <img src="images/t_378.jpg" + width="240" + height="149" + alt="Illustration: Yoken San or Sacred Mountain, Inland Sea" + title="Illustration: Yoken San or Sacred Mountain, Inland Sea" /> + <br /> + <b>Yoken San or Sacred Mountain, Inland Sea</b><br /> + <a href="images/378.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>We had one lovely view in the afternoon of the island of + Yoken San, with its snowy mountain at the back, and a pretty + little village, with a few picturesque junks in the foreground. + The yacht passed between Oki Sama and Le Sama, steering + straight for the cone-shaped little island of Odutsi. Towards + dusk we made the light of Nabae Sinaon Yo Sina, and, steering + past it, had to take several sharp and awkward turns, to avoid + two reefs off Siyako and Usi Suria. Thus we threaded the St. + Vincent's Channel, and, avoiding the Conqueror bank by another + sharp turn, dropped anchor at Imo Ura, in Hurusima, precisely + at 8.30 p.m. Tom had been on the look-out since 5 a.m., and we + were all more or less worn out with the fatigue and excitement + of last night. <span class="pagenum">Page 364<a name="Page_364" + id="Page_364"></a></span></p> + + <p><i>Friday, February 16th</i>.—Off again at 4 a.m. The + scenery was much finer than yesterday, and the wind not quite + so bitterly cold.</p> + + <p>About 11 a.m. I heard a hurrying to and fro, and once more + the cry of 'Fire!' This time it was in the store-room that it + broke out. The iron plates on which the saloon and galley + grates are fixed had become red-hot, and the wooden deck below + had consequently caught fire. The boxes on both sides, + containing the stores, were in flames; but they were quickly + removed, water was poured down, and the second and third fires + were thus soon extinguished.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_379" + id="Illus_379"></a> <img src="images/t_379.jpg" + width="240" + height="152" + alt="Illustration: Hurusima, Inland Sea" + title="Illustration: Hurusima, Inland Sea" /><br /> + <b>Hurusima, Inland Sea</b><br /> + <a href="images/379.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Saturday, February 17th</i>.—At 3.15 a.m. we began + to slow; at 3.45 the anchor was dropped near the lighthouse of + Isaki, and we waited until daylight before proceeding through + the Straits of Simono-seki. About nine o'clock a fresh start + was made, under steam, but before long the wind freshened, and + as soon as the anchorage near the town was reached we let go + once more, near two men-of-war, who had preceded us from Kobe, + but who were now wind-bound, like ourselves.</p> + + <p>To our astonishment, we also saw a large ship from Nova + Scotia at anchor, the 'Mary Fraser,' although this is not a + <span class="pagenum">Page 365<a name="Page_365" + id="Page_365"></a></span>free port, nor within treaty + limits. The gig was lowered at once, and we rowed alongside + to gain what intelligence could be learned, as well as to + ascertain what likelihood there might be of our obtaining + fresh supplies here. The captain was very civil and kind, + and volunteered to go on shore with us and act as our + interpreter. We landed opposite a large teahouse, where we + were immediately surrounded by a crowd of Japanese, who + stared at us eagerly and even touched us, only through + curiosity. They pursued us wherever we went, and when we + entered a tea-house or shop the whole crowd immediately + stopped, and if we retired to the back they surged all over + the front premises, and penetrated into the interior as far + as they could. A most amusing scene took place at one of the + tea-houses, where we went to order some provisions for the + yacht. It was rather a tedious process, and when we came out + of the back room we found the whole of the front of the + place filled by a gaping, curious crowd. The proprietor + suggested that they should retire at once, and an abrupt + retreat immediately took place, the difficulties of which + were greatly augmented by the fact that every one had left + his high wooden shoes outside, along the front of the house. + The street was ankle deep in mud and half-melted snow, into + which they did not like to venture in their stockings; but + how the owners of two or three hundred pairs of clogs, + almost exactly alike, ever found their own property again I + do not understand, though they managed to clear out very + quickly. I believe Muriel and I were the chief objects of + attraction. They told us that no European lady or child had + ever been at Simono-seki before. It is not a treaty port, so + no one is allowed to land, except from a man-of-war, without + special permission, which is not often given; it is, + besides, the key to the Inland Sea, and the authorities are + very jealous about any one seeing the forts. There is only + one European resident here, connected with the telegraph; + and a dull time he must have of it. The wire crosses the + Straits a few miles higher up. <span class="pagenum">Page + 366<a name="Page_366" + id="Page_366"></a></span></p> + + <p>The streets appeared to be full of soldiers, patrolling + singly and in pairs, with fixed bayonets. The temples were + being used as barracks, and the principal buildings seemed to + be strongly guarded; but otherwise everything appeared to go on + as usual.</p> + + <p>We waded through the mud and snow to the proverbial end of + all things, always followed by the same crowd, and stared at by + all the inhabitants of the houses we passed. They seemed very + timid, and inclined to run away directly we turned round. + Still, their curiosity, especially respecting my sealskin + jacket and serge dress, was insatiable, and I constantly felt + myself being gently stroked and touched.</p> + + <p>We returned to the yacht, and whilst we were at lunch some + officers came on board to say that, this not being a treaty + port, we could not purchase any provisions, except through + them, and with special permission. This was soon arranged, and + our visitors were rewarded for their trouble by being shown + over the yacht.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, February 18th</i>.—We were awakened in the + night by a heavy gale, with snow and sleet beating furiously on + the deck. In the morning the land was covered with snow, the + water froze as it was pumped on deck, and the bitter wind + howled and whistled through the rigging. In the afternoon the + wind even increased in violence, the snowstorms became more + frequent, and the sky was dark and overcast.</p> + + <p>We had service at eleven and again at four. The sun set cold + and stormy, promising a wild night. At times the shore was + quite hidden by the snowstorms, though only a few cables' + lengths off.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, February 19th</i>.—The wind and weather + became worse than ever, and, as time was precious, Tom decided + to retrace our steps for a short distance and go through the + Bungo Channel, between the islands of Sikok and Kiusiu, instead + of going out to sea through the Simono-seki Straits, + <span class="pagenum">Page 367<a name="Page_367" + id="Page_367"></a></span>as, in the latter case, the gale + would be right in our teeth, and we should make but little + progress. Now we shall be under the shelter of Kiusiu and + the Linschoten and Luchu islands for at least two days, and + so make a fair wind of it. Steering due south, too, we may + hope to be soon out of this horrid weather. The only + drawback to this plan is that we shall miss seeing Nagasaki, + which I much regret. There are no great sights there, but + the scenery is pretty, and the place is interesting owing to + the fact that it was the first and for many years the only, + port open to foreigners, and also the scene of the cruel + murders of Christians and the site of the beautiful island + of Pappenberg. Shanghai I do not think I regret so much, + though Tom would have been interested to talk with the + merchants about their commerce, and to see their houses, + many of which are, I am told, perfect palaces. It would be + very cold there, too, at this time of year; and I do so long + to lose my cough and feel warm once more.</p> + + <p>At 8.30 p.m. we weighed and proceeded under steam. The views + of the mountains, between the snowstorms, were lovely, with the + fresh-fallen snow shining in an occasional gleam of sunshine. + We soon passed the Isaki light, with wind and tide in our + favour, and at sunset found ourselves in the open waters of the + North Pacific.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, February 20th</i>.—A lovely day; the + thermometer already twenty degrees higher than it was + yesterday. The wind had dropped, and at 10 a.m. it had become + so calm that fires were lighted.</p> + + <p>It was delightful to see everybody and everything on + board—people, children, animals, and birds, all and each + sunning themselves, and trying to get thawed after the freezing + they have had. We have unfortunately lost one of the Hawaiian + geese, which I much regret, as it is irreplaceable. None have, + I believe, ever been exported before. The pig from Harpe Island + is very well. We have not seen him all the cold weather, as he + has been buried in <span class="pagenum">Page + 368<a name="Page_368" + id="Page_368"></a></span>straw in a box, but they say that + the cold has stopped his growth.</p> + + <p>We were continually passing islands throughout the day, + sometimes six or seven being in sight at one time, some with + active and more with extinct volcanoes. We saw smoke issuing + from three of the cones, but by night we were too far off to + notice the flames.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, February 21st</i>.—The calm still + continues. The sun is bright, the sky blue, and the atmosphere + warm. During the night we passed Suwa Sima, Akuisi Sima, and + Yoko Sima.</p> + + <p>In the afternoon a light breeze sprang up; we stopped + steaming, and before nightfall were bowling along smoothly at + the rate of ten knots.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, February 22nd</i>.—The same delightful + breeze continued throughout the night and most of the day. By + noon we had done 220 miles. Everybody had on summer clothes, + and we all felt ourselves gradually expanding after being + shrivelled up by the cold of the last month.</p> + + <p>I should never recommend anybody to come to Japan in the + winter. You do not see it at its best, I am sure, and the + scanty protection afforded by houses and carriages makes + travelling a penance rather than a pleasure. Travellers, + however, who wish to see Japan should do so at once; for the + country is changing every day, and in three years more will be + so Europeanised that little will be left worth seeing; or a + violent anti-foreign revulsion of feeling may have taken place, + and then the ports will be closed more strictly than they were + even before the execution of the first treaty. Nothing that we + can give them do they really want; their exports are not large; + and they have learned nearly all they care to know from the + foreigner. We have seen many of the European engineers of + Japanese vessels, and they all agree in declaring that the + natives learn to imitate anything they see done with wonderful + quickness. These men also averred that in a few years there + will not <span class="pagenum">Page 369<a name="Page_369" + id="Page_369"></a></span>be a single foreigner employed in + Japan, as the Japanese will be quite in a position to + dispense with such aid; and although the Government pay + foreigners in a high position exceedingly well, their + service offers no career to a young man. His engagement is + for so many years, and when his subordinates have learned to + do the work he may go where he likes. I am bound to add that + I have heard the contrary opinion equally strongly + expressed; but the facts I have mentioned make me lean + rather to the former than to the latter side of the + story.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, February 23rd</i>.—Another pleasant day. + The wind dropped, fires were lighted, and at 4.30 p.m. we + proceeded under steam. Soon after seven, whilst we were at + dinner, the table gave a sudden lurch, which was followed by + the sound of rain on the deck above. We found that a breeze had + sprung up all at once, and had carried away some of our + head-sails before they could possibly be taken in. Even under + close-reefed canvas we had a most uneasy night, racing along at + from ten to twelve knots an hour.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, February 24th</i>.—We were rushing along, + literally <i>through</i> the water all day, for there was + plenty of it on deck—not really any great quantity, but + sufficient to make everything wet and uncomfortable.</p> + + <p>At 1.35 we made the island of Ockseu, a capital land-fall, + and very satisfactory in every way; for the sky was too much + overcast to get an observation, and the currents hereabouts are + strong and variable. During the night the wind fell light, but + we maintained a speed of from nine to ten knots.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, February 25th</i>.—A much finer day. At 8 + a.m. we had run 299 knots since the same time yesterday. We met + a large steamer and passed a brigantine; also several Chinese + junks. About twelve o'clock we saw a flag being waved + frantically from a junk not far from us. At first we thought + something was wrong with them; but <span class="pagenum">Page + 370<a name="Page_370" + id="Page_370"></a></span>soon a small boat put off with + three men, and we found, on its arrival alongside, that it + contained a pilot anxious for a job. He was very + disappointed that we would not let him come on board; but + Tom always likes doing the pilotage himself. The boat was a + rough wash-tub kind of affair, not much better than those + used by the inhabitants of Tierra del Fuego and + Patagonia.</p> + + <p>About two o'clock we entered the tropics; but the weather is + now colder again, and not nearly so pleasant as it was two days + ago. I suppose it is owing to the north-east monsoon.</p> + + <p>In the course of the afternoon we received several more + offers of pilotage, all of which were declined; and at 7.45 we + got up steam and lay to all night, ready to go into Hongkong + harbour at daylight.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, February 26th</i>.—At 4 a.m. we found + ourselves close under the light on the eastern end of the + island of Hongkong. We were surrounded by islands, and the + morning was dark and thick; so we waited till 5.30, and then + steamed on through the Kowloon passage up to the city of + Victoria, as it is really named, though it is generally called + Hongkong. The channel is long, and in some places so narrow + that it is like going through a mountain pass, with barren + hills and rocks on either hand; but the combined effect of the + blue waters, and red, brown, and yellow hills, is very + fine.</p> + + <p>Off the town of Victoria the crowd of shipping is immense, + and it became a difficult task to thread our way between the + fleets of sampans and junks. The latter are the most + extraordinary-looking craft I ever saw, with high, overhanging + sterns and roll, or rather draw, up sails, sometimes actually + made of silk, and puffed like a lady's net ball-dress. Then + their decks are so crowded with lumber, live and dead, that you + wonder how the boats can be navigated at all. But still they + are much more picturesque than the Japanese junks, and better + sea boats. The sampans <span class="pagenum">Page + 371<a name="Page_371" + id="Page_371"></a></span>are long boats, pointed at both + ends, and provided with a small awning. They have deep + keels; and underneath the floor there is one place for a + cooking fire, another for an altar, and a third where the + children are stowed to be out of the way. In these sampans + whole families, sometimes five generations, live and move + and have their being. I never shall forget my astonishment + when, going ashore very early one morning in one of these + strange craft, the proprietor lifted up what I had thought + was the bottom of the boat, and disclosed three or four + children, packed away as tight as herrings, while under the + seats were half-a-dozen people of larger growth. The young + <span class="pagenum">Page 372<a name="Page_372" + id="Page_372"></a></span>mother of the small family + generally rows with the smallest baby strapped on to her + back, and the next-sized one in her arms, whom she is also + teaching to row. The children begin to row by themselves + when they are about two years old. The boys have a gourd, + intended for a life-preserver, tied round their necks as + soon as they are born. The girls are left to their fate, a + Chinaman thinking it rather an advantage to lose a daughter + or two occasionally.</p> + + <p>Many of these sampan people have never set foot on shore in + their lives, and this water-life of China is one of the most + extraordinary features of the country. It is what strikes all + travellers, and so has tempted me to a digression.</p> + + <p>A lieutenant from the flag-ship came on board and piloted us + into a snug berth, among the men-of-war, and close to the + shore, where we were immediately surrounded by sampans, and + pestered by pertinacious Chinese clambering on board. The + donkey-engine, with well-rigged hose, soon, however, cleared + the decks, bulwarks, and gangways, and we were not bothered any + more.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_386" + id="Illus_386"></a> <img src="images/t_386.jpg" + width="228" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: How we were boarded by Chinese and dispersed them" + title="Illustration: How we were boarded by Chinese and dispersed them" /> + <br /> + <b>How we were boarded by Chinese and dispersed + them</b><br /> + <a href="images/386.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>After breakfast we landed on the Praya, a fine quay, + extending the whole length of the town. On it are situated many + of the large stores, offices, and markets of the city. The + streets are wide and handsome, and the buildings in European + style, with deep verandahs and arcades, all built of stone. The + town is built on the side of a hill, with ferny, moss-covered + banks, overhung by tropical trees, close to some of the + principal offices. At the back are the mountains, the peak + overhead, with the signal station on the top, always busily at + work, making and answering signals with flags as ships and + junks enter or leave the harbour. Soldiers and sailors abound + in the streets; and if it were not for the sedan-chairs and + palanquins, in which everybody is carried about by Chinese + coolies with enormous hats, one might easily fancy oneself at + dear old Gib., so much do these dependencies of the Crown in + foreign <span class="pagenum">Page 373<a name="Page_373" + id="Page_373"></a></span>countries resemble one another, + even in such opposite quarters of the globe.</p> + + <p>We were very anxious to leave the yacht here and to go up to + Canton; but we find there is no possible hotel at the latter + place. This is rather unfortunate, as, after our long residence + on board, and all the knocking about at sea, the yacht requires + repairing and refitting. She looks very well painted white, and + the change is a great comfort in hot weather; but white paint + does not wear well, and in order to maintain her good looks she + ought to receive a fresh coat at every port. We can only go up + the Pearl River at the very top of the tide, for in several + places there are not fourteen feet of water over the shoals. It + will, therefore, take us two or three days to accomplish what + the steamers do in six hours, and a great waste of time will be + involved.</p> + + <p>To-day, for the first time, we have heard 'pidgin English' + seriously spoken. It is very trying to one's composure to hear + grave merchants, in their counting-houses, giving important + orders to clerks and compradors in what sounds, until one gets + accustomed to it, like the silliest of baby-talk. The term + really means 'business English;' and certain it is that most + Chinamen you meet understand it perfectly, though you might + just as well talk Greek as ordinary English to them. 'Take + piecey missisy one piecey bag topside,' seems quite as + difficult to understand as 'Take the lady's bag upstairs' would + be; but it is easier to a Chinaman's intellect.</p> + + <p>From the Praya we went up the hill to write our names in the + Governor's book. It was a beautiful road all the way, running + between lovely gardens and beneath shady trees. Government + House is a fine building, situated on a high point of land, + commanding extensive views in every direction. After a pleasant + chat we descended the hill again, and proceeded to the Hongkong + hotel for tiffin. It does not seem a very desirable abode, + being large, dirty, <span class="pagenum">Page + 374<a name="Page_374" + id="Page_374"></a></span>and ill-kept. At one o'clock a bell + rang, and the visitors all rushed in and took their places + at various little tables, and were served with a 'scrambly' + sort of meal by Chinese boys.</p> + + <p>After this, a carriage was sent for us, and we drove to the + race-course. This is the fourth and last day of the races, and + there is to be a ball to-night to wind up with, to which + everybody seems to be going. The drive was a very pleasant one, + the road presenting a most animated appearance, with crowds of + soldiers, sailors, Chinamen, Parsees, Jews, all hurrying along + by the side of the numerous sedan-chairs and carriages. We were + puzzled to imagine where, on this rocky, hilly island, there + could possibly be found a piece of ground flat enough for a + race-course. But the mystery was solved when we reached a + lovely little valley, about two miles from the town, where we + found a very fair course, about the size of that at Chester, + but not so dangerous. The grand stand is a picturesque object, + with its thatched roof, verandahs, and sun-blinds. The + interior, too, looks comfortably arranged, and certainly + contains the most luxurious basket-chairs one could possibly + desire. There are a lawn and a paddock attached, and very good + temporary stables, over many of which are private stands and + tiffin-rooms.</p> + + <p>Hongkong races are a great event, and people come down from + Canton, Shanghai, Macao, and all sorts of places for them. + Everybody knows everybody, and it seems to be altogether a most + pleasant social meeting. Many ladies were present. Some of the + races were capital, the little Chinese ponies scuttling along + at a great pace under their big riders, whose feet seemed + almost to touch the ground. There was also a race for + Australian horses. But the most amusing event of all was the + last scramble for Chinese ponies ridden by Chinese boys, in + which horses and riders seemed to be exactly suited to one + another. <span class="pagenum">Page 375<a name="Page_375" + id="Page_375"></a></span></p> + + <p>The sun went down, and it grew cold and dark before all was + over. The gentlemen walked back to the town, and I went down to + the landing-place in solitary state, in a carriage driven by an + Indian coachman, attended by a Chinese footman. I was + immediately surrounded by a vociferating crowd, each individual + member of which was anxious to extol the merits of his own + sampan. The carriage having driven off, I was quite alone, and + had some difficulty in dispersing them, and being allowed to + enter the sampan I had selected. However, I did succeed at + last, and making my boatmen understand that they were to take + me to 'the white ship,' as the yacht is generally called, + returned on board to rest.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 376<a name="Page_376" + id="Page_376"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XXII" + id="CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">TO CANTON UP THE PEARL RIVER.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>Sails of silk and ropes of + sandal</i><br /></span> <span><i>Such as gleam in + ancient lore</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>And the singing + of the sailors</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>And the + answer from the shore</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Tuesday, February 27th</i>.—Until half-past ten we + were occupied in the pleasant task of reading news from + home—all good this time, I am happy to say. At 10.30 we + landed and went up the hill to breakfast with Sir Arthur and + Miss Kennedy, and heard a good deal about the colony. It is + wonderful to think that thirty years ago it scarcely existed, + and now it is a large and flourishing place, with splendid + houses, institutions, roads, and gardens. We were also most + agreeably surprised by the beauty of the scenery. It is really + lovely, and, though the hills around are barren, wherever + cultivation has been attempted, vegetation appears to flourish + luxuriantly. The climate cannot be very bad, judging by the + healthy look of the residents and troops. Typhoons seem to be + the greatest drawback. They come without any warning, and it is + impossible to guard against them and their disastrous effects. + Thousands of lives, and millions of pounds' worth of property, + are destroyed in a few hours. We have been shown some of the + effects of a very severe typhoon that occurred in 1874. It + seems almost incredible that the mere force of the wind can + snap iron posts in two, break granite columns, and blow off + heavy roofs.</p> + + <p>After breakfast the ceremony of presenting the departing + Governor with a State umbrella took place. It was a + <span class="pagenum">Page 377<a name="Page_377" + id="Page_377"></a></span>token of respect from ten thousand + Chinese inhabitants of Hongkong, and is the greatest + compliment that can be paid to any official. It arrived in a + large camphor-wood box, and the address, beautifully + embroidered in gold thread and silk, was enclosed in a + magnificent sandal-wood box about four feet long, covered + with the richest carving. Precisely at twelve some forty + vermilion-coloured visiting cards were handed in, with the + name of each member of the deputation written in Chinese and + English characters. The visitors were all received in a + large drawing-room, whilst we ladies observed the + proceedings through the doors leading from a smaller room. + It is not considered etiquette by the Chinese for ladies to + appear at these public ceremonies.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_392" + id="Illus_392"></a> <img src="images/t_392.jpg" + width="240" + height="233" + alt="Illustration: Chinese Visiting Cards" + title="Illustration: Chinese Visiting Cards" /><br /> + <b>Chinese Visiting Cards</b><br /> + <a href="images/392.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>After it was all over, a stroll through the town, and a look + at the shops, filled up the rest of the time in the morning, + until we went on board to fetch the children for an expedition + up the Peak to the signal station. As usual many visitors came + on board the yacht, and it was later than we had intended + before we could make a start. <span class="pagenum">Page + 378<a name="Page_378" + id="Page_378"></a></span>I had to be carried up the steep + ascent in a chair, but the children and dogs thoroughly + enjoyed themselves scampering about. The little ones picked + heaps of flowers and ferns. The dogs had not been allowed to + land before, as everybody told me they would be sure to be + stolen directly. We returned on board before sunset, and had + time for a little rest before some friends arrived to + dinner. We have shipped two Chinese boys here to work in the + pantry and kitchen. They are excellent servants as a rule, + but how they will get on with the others, and how they will + like the sea-life, remains to be proved.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, February 28th</i>.—I was up and off at + half-past six to the market, and returned to a late breakfast + on board; after which a large party of China merchants came as + a deputation to invite Tom to fix a day to dine with them. I + think they proposed to pay him what is for them an unusual + compliment, partly because they were pleased with some remarks + he made yesterday at Government House, and partly because they + think so much of his enterprise in making a voyage round the + world in a yacht with his wife and family. They examined + everything on board, and seemed to be specially interested in + Tom's Board of Trade certificate, which one of their number + translated in full for the benefit of the rest.</p> + + <p>The Chinese part of the town stands quite away from the + foreign settlement. It is dirty and crowded in spite of its + wide streets, and the large, gaily coloured houses have the + names and advertisements of their proprietors painted all + across them. The theatre is in the middle of the city, and was + densely crowded. A box had been reserved for us, for the + ordinary seats are like a carpenter's bench. On the floor of + the house men and women sat together, but in the galleries the + men sat apart, and there were separate boxes for the women. The + acting was rough, and accompanied by the most discordant music. + The scenery seemed of an excessively rudimentary description, + as you may imagine <span class="pagenum">Page + 379<a name="Page_379" + id="Page_379"></a></span>when I tell you that a steep hill + up which the hero and heroine climbed with great difficulty + was composed of five kitchen chairs arranged in a pyramid on + the top of three kitchen tables, held in position by men in + their ordinary dress. The fugitives were supposed to be a + Tartar general and his wife, escaping from their enemies + after a great battle. The fighting was renewed at intervals + with great noise and spirit. Some of the costumes were very + fine, and cost from 30<i>l</i>. to 40<i>l</i>. apiece.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_394" + id="Illus_394"></a> <img src="images/t_394.jpg" + width="240" + height="173" + alt="Illustration: On the Pearl River" + title="Illustration: On the Pearl River" /><br /> + <b>On the Pearl River</b><br /> + <a href="images/394.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>From the theatre we drove to the Chinese hospital, and + thence to the Chinese recreation ground, where we saw sundry + itinerant quacks and vendors of all sorts of rubbish. As we + were walking along, having left our chairs for a few minutes to + look at the Chinese shops, a man picked my pocket of a + one-dollar note. Mr. Freer and the Doctor saw, pursued, and + caught him. He vehemently protested his innocence, but to no + avail. They proceeded to strip him, found the note, gave him a + good shaking, and told him to go. <span class="pagenum">Page + 380<a name="Page_380" + id="Page_380"></a></span></p> + + <p><i>Thursday, March 1st</i>.—A most lovely morning + ushered in the new month, which having come in like the most + peaceable of lambs, will, we hope, not end like a roaring lion + just as we expect to be in the middle of the Bay of Bengal. We + left the yacht at 7.30, and went on board the 'Kin-Shan,' which + is a regular American river steamer with beam engines and many + deck-houses, which are painted white. The lower deck is crowded + with the most inferior class of Chinese, some eight hundred of + them being on board. It gave us rather a turn to see them all + padlocked in under the hatchways and iron gratings. At each + opening is posted an armed sentinel, ready to fire among the + crowd in case of any disturbance. In the saloon, also, is a + stand of pistols, and rifles with fixed bayonets, ready for the + European passengers to defend themselves with, in case of + emergency. These are very necessary precautions, on account of + the numerous pirates who occasionally ship in disguise among + the crowd, murder the passengers and crew, and take possession + of the steamer. Not quite two years ago a vessel belonging to + this same company was assailed in that way. Every one on board + was murdered, and the ship taken to Macao + <a name="FNanchor_19_19" + id="FNanchor_19_19">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_19_19" + class="fnanchor">[19]</a> But this voyage was more + prosperous, the captain was most kind and polite, and the + boat clean and comfortable. An excellent breakfast and an + elaborate tiffin were served at noon, all for the sum of + four dollars a head, including wine, beer, and spirits <i>ad + libitum</i>.</p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_19_19" + id="Footnote_19_19"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> + I have since been told that only the captain and one or + two passengers were killed, and the vessel run ashore + near, not at Macao.</p> + </div> + + <p>On first leaving Hankow the course lies between islands and + through fine mountain passes. Later on the country becomes flat + and uninteresting till the Bogue Forts are reached. Here are to + be seen the remains of the old forts knocked down by the French + and English guns.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_396" + id="Illus_396"></a> <img src="images/t_396.jpg" + width="240" + height="160" + alt="Illustration: Bogue Forts" + title="Illustration: Bogue Forts" /><br /> + <b>Bogue Forts</b><br /> + <a href="images/396.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>About one o'clock we reached Whampoa, the leading port of + Canton. The Pearl River is too shallow for large + <span class="pagenum">Page 381<a name="Page_381" + id="Page_381"></a></span>steamers to go up any higher; so we + stopped here only a few minutes to disembark some of the + Chinese passengers, and from this point the interesting part + of the voyage began. The river, as well as all the little + supplementary creeks, was alive with junks and + sampans—masts and sails stuck up in every direction, + gliding about among the flat paddy-fields. Such masts and + sails as they are! The mandarins' boats, especially, are so + beautifully carved, painted, and decorated, that they look + more as if they were floating about for ornament than for + use. Just about two o'clock our large steamer was brought up + close alongside the wooden pier as easily as a skiff, but it + must require some skill to navigate this crowded river + without accident. On the shore was an excited, vociferating + crowd, but no one came to meet us; and we had begun to + wonder what was to become of us—what we should do, and + whither we should go in a strange city, where we did not + know a soul—when we were relieved from our + embarrassment by the appearance of the Vice-Consul, who came + on board to meet a friend. He told us that, owing to an + expected ball, all the houses <span class="pagenum">Page + 382<a name="Page_382" + id="Page_382"></a></span>were unusually full, and that not + one of the people who had been written to could take us in. + This was rather bad news, but we felt sure that something + would turn up.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_397" + id="Illus_397"></a> <img src="images/t_397.jpg" + width="210" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Chinese Pagoda and Boats" + title="Illustration: Chinese Pagoda and Boats" /><br /> + <b>Chinese Pagoda and Boats</b><br /> + <a href="images/397.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>We landed, and, after proceeding a short distance along the + dirty street, came to a bridge with iron gates, which were + thrown open by the sentry. After crossing a dirty stream we + found ourselves in the foreign settlement—Shameen it is + called—walking on nice turf, under the shade of fine + trees. The houses of the merchants which line this promenade + are all fine, handsome stone buildings, with deep verandahs. At + the back there are compounds with kitchen gardens, and under + the trees dairy cows are grazing. Every household appears to + supply itself with garden and farm produce, and the whole scene + has a most English, home-like appearance. We went first to the + Vice-Consul, and then to the Jardine Hong. All the business + houses retain the names of the firms to which they originally + belonged, even when they have passed into entirely different + hands. After a little chat we went on to the Deacon Hong, where + we found they had just done tiffin, and where we met some old + friends. <span class="pagenum">Page 383<a name="Page_383" + id="Page_383"></a></span></p> + + <p>By the kindness of various people, to whom we were + introduced, we all found ourselves gradually installed in + luxurious quarters. As for us, we had a large room comfortably + furnished in English fashion, with a bath-room attached. All + the houses are very much alike, and are fitted up in an equally + comfortable style.</p> + + <p>About three o'clock we started in five chairs, with + Man-look-Chin for our guide. Tom vigorously protested against + not being allowed to use his own legs, but everybody assured + him that it was impossible in the crowded streets of the city, + so he had to submit to being carried. No Chinaman, except those + employed by foreigners, is allowed to cross any of the bridges + over the stream, which completely surrounds the foreign + settlement, and makes the suburb of Shameen a perfect island. + There are iron gates on each bridge, guarded by sentries. The + contrast in the state of things presented by the two sides of + the bridge is most marvellous. From the quiet country park, + full of large villas and pretty gardens, you emerge into a + filthy city, full of a seething, dirty population, and where + smells and sights of the most disgusting description meet you + at every turn. People who have seen many Chinese cities say + that Canton is the cleanest of them all. What the dirtiest must + be like is therefore beyond my imagination. The suburbs of the + city, where all sorts of cheap eating-shops abound—where + the butchers and fishmongers expose the most untempting-looking + morsels for sale, and where there are hampers of all sorts of + nasty-looking compounds, done up ready for the buyer of the + smallest portion to take home—are especially revolting. + The Chinese, however poor, like several courses to their meals, + which are served in little bowls on a small table to each + person, and eaten with chop-sticks, as in Japan. It is to + gratify this taste that what we should think a very minute + fish, or a tiny chicken, is cut up into half-a-dozen pieces and + sold to several purchasers.<span class="pagenum">Page + 384<a name="Page_384" + id="Page_384"></a></span></p> + + <p>The Chinese are very fond of fish, and are most ingenious in + propagating, rearing, and keeping them. The dried-fish and + seaweed shops are not at all picturesque or sweet-smelling, + especially as all the refuse is thrown into the streets in + front. Men go about the streets carrying pails of manure, + suspended on bamboo poles across their shoulders, and clear + away the rubbish as they go. I was very glad when we got + through all this to the better part of the town, and found + ourselves in a large shop, where it was cool, and dark, and + quiet.</p> + + <p>The streets of the city are so narrow, that two chairs can + scarcely pass one another, except at certain points. The roofs + of the houses nearly meet across the roadway, and, in addition, + the inhabitants frequently spread mats overhead, rendering the + light below dim and mysterious. Every shop has a large + vermilion-coloured board, with the name of its occupant written + in Chinese characters, together with a list of the articles + which he sells, hung out in front of it, so that the view down + the narrow streets is very bright and peculiar. These highways + and byways are not unlike the bazaars at Constantinople and + Cairo, and different wares are also sold in different + localities after the Eastern fashion. This is, in some + respects, a great advantage, as, if you are in search of any + particular article, you have almost an unlimited choice of + whatever the town has to offer. But, on the other hand, if you + want a variety of articles, it is an inconvenient arrangement, + as you have to go all over the place to find them, and probably + have to visit the most opposite quarters. We saw thousands of + china vases, and bowls, and tea and dinner services, some very + handsome, but many extremely poor. There were a few specially + made for the French Exhibition next year, which were + exceedingly handsome. We visited an ivory shop, and saw some + splendid specimens of carving. One man had been for fifteen + months employed in carving on one side of an enormous + elephant's tusk the representation of a battle + <span class="pagenum">Page 385<a name="Page_385" + id="Page_385"></a></span>scene, and on the other that of a + thanksgiving procession. It will take him at least another + year to finish the job. It is for the Paris Exhibition. It + will be quite interesting to look for our old Japanese and + Chinese friends and their products on that occasion.</p> + + <p>From ivory carving, we went to a black-wood furniture shop, + where we saw some very handsome things, by no means dear + considering the amount of time and labour bestowed upon them. + We finished up with the Temple of the Five Hundred Genii, whose + five hundred carved wooden statues, thickly gilt, all very + ugly, and all in different attitudes, stand round the statue of + a European in sailor's costume, said to be meant for Marco + Polo, but, whoever it may be, evidently considered an object at + least of veneration, if not of worship.</p> + + <p>We now returned through the dirty city to Shameen, and the + relief, after crossing the bridge into an open space where one + could breathe freely and see the blue sky, was + indescribable.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, March 2nd</i>.—Before we had finished + breakfast the other gentlemen strolled in from their various + quarters, and the drivers and guides arrived from the + Vice-Consul's. A long morning's work had been mapped out for + us—thirteen sights before luncheon, then a visit to the + French Consulate, followed by eight more objects of interest to + be seen before we finally crossed the Pearl River to visit the + Honan Temple. Quitting the pretty cool suburb by another + bridge, we passed through streets quite as dirty as those of + yesterday, until the heart of the city had been reached. We + went first to the wedding-chair shop, where they keep + sedan-chairs, of four qualities, for hire whenever a wedding + occurs. Even the commonest are made gorgeous by silver gilding + and lacquer, while the best are really marvels of decorative + art, completely covered with the blue lustrous feathers of a + kind of kingfisher. In shape they are like a square pagoda, and + round each tier are groups of figures. + <span class="pagenum">Page 386<a name="Page_386" + id="Page_386"></a></span>The dresses are also made of + expensive feathers, but then they last for generations. + There are no windows to these strange conveyances, in which + the bride is carried to her future home, closely shut up, + with joss-sticks burning in front of her. Recently there + have been two sad accidents. In one case the journey was + long, there was no outlet for the smoke of the joss-sticks, + and when they arrived and opened the chair, the bride was + found dead from suffocation. The other accident occurred + through the chair catching fire while it was passing through + some narrow street under an archway. The bearers became + frightened, put down their burden, and ran away, leaving the + poor bride locked up inside to be burnt to death.</p> + + <p>From the chair shop we went to the embroiderers, to see them + at work. Their productions are exquisite, and it is a pity that + better specimens are not seen in England. The process of + lacquer-making, too, is very interesting. We had, however, to + go from house to house to witness it, as only one portion of + the process is carried on at each—from the gradual + coating of the roughest wood with three coatings of varnish, + until it is finally ornamented with delicate designs, and + polished ready for sale. In appearance, price, and length of + wear there is a vast difference.</p> + + <p>The next thing to see was the weaving of silk, which is done + in the most primitive manner. One man throws the shuttle, while + another forms the pattern by jumping on the top of the loom and + raising a certain number of threads, in order to allow the + shuttle to pass beneath them.</p> + + <p>Then came a visit to the Temple of Longevity, a large + Buddhist temple, with a monastic establishment of about ninety + priests attached to it. It contains three shrines with large + figures, but nothing specially interesting. There is a large + pond in the midst of the garden, covered with duckweed, and + full of beautiful gold and silver fish of many kinds. The + Chinese certainly excel in producing gold and silver and red + fish; they are the pets of every <span class="pagenum">Page + 387<a name="Page_387" + id="Page_387"></a></span>household, and are of all colours, + some being striped and spotted, and boasting any number of + tails from one to five.</p> + + <p>Outside the temple stands the Jadestone Market, where + incredible quantities of this valuable stone change hands + before ten o'clock every morning, both in its rough and its + polished state. The stalls are the simplest wooden stands, and + the appearance of the vendors is poor in the extreme. The + contents of the stalls, however, are worth from 500<i>l</i>. to + l,000<i>l</i>. (not dollars), and there are hundreds of these + stalls, besides an entire jadestone street which we afterwards + visited. We saw several of the shops, and asked the prices, as + we wished to take home a small specimen; but they had no good + carved cups, which were what we wanted, and for what they had + they asked an enormous price. Jadestone is a material very + difficult to work, and in many cases the result attained is not + worth the labour expended upon it. It is more a <i>tour de + force</i> than a work of art. For a good stone, green as grass + (as it ought to be), they ask from 2,500 to 3,000 dollars; for + a necklace of beads, 5,000 dollars; a set of mandarin's + buttons, one large and one small, 50 to 150 dollars.</p> + + <p>After looking in at the goldbeaters at work, we next made + our way to the temple of the Five Genii who are supposed to + have founded the city of Canton. Being a Tartar temple, all the + gods have a totally different cast of features, and are + represented as Tartars with long beards. It is much frequented + by women of all classes, and up and down the numerous flights + of steps leading from one shrine to another, poor little women + tottered and tumbled on their crippled feet, holding on to one + another, or leaning on a stick. This temple is interesting as + having been the head-quarters of the allied forces during their + occupation of Canton from 1858 to 1861. The great bell in front + of its principal shrine has been broken by a shot.</p> + + <p>We then went to see the Flowery Pagoda, built A.D. 512, but + now deprived of many of its decorations. The Brilliant + <span class="pagenum">Page 388<a name="Page_388" + id="Page_388"></a></span>Pagoda too, so called from having + once been covered with snow-white porcelain, is now only a + tall brick-pointed tower nine stories high.</p> + + <p>By this time we all felt hungry, and began to wend our way + towards the <i>yamun</i>. On the outskirts may be seen + prisoners in chains, or wearing the <i>cangue</i>, imprisoned + in a cage, or else suffering one of the numerous tortures + inflicted in this country. I did not go to see any of these + horrors, neither did I visit the execution ground; but some of + the party did, and described it as a most horrible sight. + Skulls were lying about in all directions, one of which had + been quite recently severed from its trunk, the ground being + still moist and red.</p> + + <p>Whilst luncheon was being prepared we were taken over many + of the rooms and through several of the enclosures within the + fortified gate. The meal was excellently served by Chinese + servants in a charmingly picturesque Tartar room, and after it + we wandered about the park, looked at the deer, and admired the + Nagasaki bantams. Then it was time to start on a fresh + sight-seeing expedition, armed with fresh directions. We set + out first to the Temple of the Sleeping Buddha, where there is + a large, fat, reclining figure; then to the Temple of + Horrors—most rightly named, for in a suite of rooms built + round three sides of a large yard are represented all the + tortures of the Buddhist faith, such as boiling in oil, sawing + in pieces, and other horrible devices. The yard itself is + crowded with fortune-tellers, charm-sellers, deputy + prayer-sayers, beggars, and all sorts of natural horrors, + exhibiting various deformities. Altogether it is a most + unpleasant place, but still it is one of the characteristic + sights of Canton.</p> + + <p>We saw the hotel to-day for the first time. It certainly + looks very hopeless. We were anxious to get in there if + possible, as we were such a large party, but everybody assured + us it was quite out of the question. One gentleman told me he + never could fancy using his portmanteau + <span class="pagenum">Page 389<a name="Page_389" + id="Page_389"></a></span>again after even laying it down on + the floor for a few minutes. The absence of a decent hotel + renders Canton an inconvenient place to visit. The European + inhabitants are so very kind, however, that you are sure to + find somebody who knows somebody else who will hospitably + take you in.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_404" + id="Illus_404"></a> <img src="images/t_404.jpg" + width="240" + height="173" + alt="Illustration: The French Consulate, Canton" + title="Illustration: The French Consulate, Canton" /><br /> + <b>The French Consulate, Canton</b><br /> + <a href="images/404.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>From the Temple of the Sleeping Buddha we went up the height + to breathe a little fresh air, and to see the five-storied + pagoda at the spot where the allied forces had encamped, the + Chinese groves in the White Cloud Mountains beyond, and to gain + a general view of the densely crowded city beneath. It is all + too flat, however, to be picturesque. The three <i>yamuns</i> + at our feet, with their quaint towers, grand old trees, flags, + and the broad Pearl River on the other side of the city, are + the only elements of positive beauty in the landscape.</p> + + <p>We soon descended the heights again, and, passing the + Cantonese Viceroy's <i>yamuns</i> paid our promised visit to + the <span class="pagenum">Page 390<a name="Page_390" + id="Page_390"></a></span>French Consul. His residence is, if + possible, more quaint and beautiful than that of the English + representative. The trees are finer, especially one grand + avenue leading from the outer gates to the private + apartments. We were most kindly received, and shown a + wonderful collection of embroideries and china. It was a + delightful visit, but we could not remain so long as we + wished, for we had to see the water clock. The tower in + which it stands is approached by a flight of steps, and was + built between the years A.D. 624 and 907; but it has been + repaired, destroyed, and repaired again, several times, + having suffered in the bombardment of the town by the allied + fleets in 1857.</p> + + <p>In the next street, Treasury Street (said to be the finest + in Canton), you can buy burning-sticks measured to mark the + time. They are extremely cheap, but perfectly accurate, and + there seems little doubt that they have been used by the + Chinese for thousands of years before the Christian era. Here, + too, were the large spectacles so much worn; opium pipes, with + all the paraphernalia for cleaning and smoking them; water + pipes in pretty little shagreen cases, and many other curious + articles in common use, of which we purchased specimens.</p> + + <p>In the Feather Street are innumerable shops containing + nothing but feathers of all kinds for mandarins, actors, and + ordinary mortals; but the great ambition of every Chinaman is + to have a feather from the Emperor. They are all called + peacocks' feathers, one-eyed, two-eyed, or three-eyed; but, in + reality, many are pheasants' feathers. Some of these are from + six to eight feet in length, beautifully marked. I bought two + pairs over seven feet long. They are rather rare, as each bird + has only two long feathers, and these are in perfection for but + one month in the year. In this part of the town stands a + Chinese restaurant where only cats' and dogs' flesh is + served.</p> + + <p>We passed through innumerable streets, and at last reached + the site of the old factories, now only occupied by + <span class="pagenum">Page 391<a name="Page_391" + id="Page_391"></a></span>a large and comfortable house. We + were to have embarked in the Consul's boat to visit the + Temple of Honan across the river, but it was getting late, + and every one felt tired; so we went back through more + crowded streets to rest awhile, before dressing to go out to + dinner at eight o'clock. The dinner was quite English in its + style, and the table looked bright with tea roses, + heliotrope, and mignonette. The tables had been charmingly + decorated by the Chinese servants, and even the <i>menu</i> + had been arranged by them. They seem to save their employer + all trouble, even that of thinking, provided the services of + really good ones can be secured. We have had one for only a + few days, and he does everything for Tom and me. He appears + to know exactly what we want to do or to wear, and to + foresee all our requirements.</p> + + <p>But to return to this famous repast. It began with mandarin + bird's-nest soup, with plover's eggs floating about in it. This + is a most delicious and dainty dish, and is invariably given to + strangers on their first arrival. I had no idea how expensive + the nests were—54 dollars a 'pice,' weighing something + under a pound, and it takes two or three ounces to make enough + soup for ten people. We had a very pleasant evening, talking + over our experiences, and exchanging news as to our mutual + friends.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 392<a name="Page_392" + id="Page_392"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" + id="CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">CANTON AND MACAO TO SINGAPORE.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>I remember the black wharves and the + slips</i>,<br /></span> <span class="i2"><i>And the + sea-tides tossing free</i>;<br /></span> <span><i>And + Spanish sailors with bearded lips</i>,<br /></span> + <span><i>And the beauty and mystery of the + ship</i><br /></span> <span class="i2"><i>And the magic + of the sea</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Saturday, March 3rd</i>.—After our long day + yesterday, I did not feel capable of acceding to our guide's + proposition of being ready at half-past six for further + explorations before breakfast; besides, I wanted to see Tom off + by the nine o'clock boat to Hongkong, whither he is obliged to + return in order to keep various engagements. The rest of our + party have been persuaded to stay and see a little more of + Canton and to go with some friends to a picnic in the White + Cloud Mountains. A man brought home to-day some carved + tortoiseshell brushes Tom has given me, with my name carved on + them in Chinese. It was no good writing it down for the + engraver's guidance, and after hearing it several times he + wrote down two characters; but, as the 'r' is always a great + difficulty with the Chinese, I much doubt whether the name is + really spelt rightly.</p> + + <p>It was a most lovely day, and after some little delay we + started about eleven o'clock, a party of seventeen in chairs. + There were five ladies and twelve gentlemen—a most + unusual proportion for Canton. A few weeks ago they wanted to + get up a fancy ball, but there were only five available ladies + to be found in the city. At present one or two more are staying + here on a visit, and it is hoped that + <span class="pagenum">Page 393<a name="Page_393" + id="Page_393"></a></span>another ball may be arranged during + this week, which may boast of at least ten ladies. We made + quite a procession, with all the servants, bearers, &c., + and excited much commotion in the narrow streets, where + everybody had to make room and squeeze up to the side as + best they could. Men ran before to clear the way for us, + shouting, yet we were more than an hour going right across + the city. On our way we passed through the egg market, saw + the pork fat market, and the poulterers' and fowlers' + shops.</p> + + <p>We managed to visit several shops for the sale of real + Chinese furniture. It is very handsome, but curious in form, + and, unless it is specially ordered, is made only for native + use. Every Chinese reception-room is furnished in precisely the + same manner, with very stiff high arm-chairs, arranged in two + rows. A small four-legged square table stands between every two + chairs, a larger table in the centre, and at the end an + enormous sofa, big enough for six or eight people to lie full + length across. The sofa and all the chairs have marble seats + and backs, and the tops of the tables are also made of marble, + or a sort of soapstone, on which may be distinguished natural + landscapes slightly assisted by art.</p> + + <p>In the bird market I saw numbers of little birds for sale, + for the Chinese are very fond of pets, and often take their + birds out in a cage with them when they go for a walk, just as + we should be accompanied by a dog. They manage to tame them + thoroughly, and when they meet a friend they will put the cage + down, let the bird out, and give him something to eat while + they have their chat. I saw this done several times.</p> + + <p>Our road next led us through part of the butchers' quarter, + where rats were hung up by their tails, and what looked very + like skinned cats and dogs dangled beside them. Whole cages + full of these animals were exposed for sale alive. Some + travellers deny that the Chinese eat cats and dogs and rats, + but there can be no question that they do so, though they may + be the food only of the <span class="pagenum">Page + 394<a name="Page_394" + id="Page_394"></a></span>lower classes. Nor do 'puppy dogs' + appear on the tables of the rich, except on one particular + day in the year, when to eat them is supposed to bring good + luck. We passed a restaurant where I was shown the bill of + fare in Chinese of which this is a translation:—</p> + + <p class="ctr">BILL OF FARE FOR THE DAY.</p> + + <table cellspacing="0" + cellpadding="4" + border="0" + summary="Chinese Bill of Fare"> + <tr> + <td>One tael of black dog's flesh</td> + + <td>eight cash.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One tael weight of black dog's fat</td> + + <td>three kandareems of silver.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One large basin of black cat's flesh</td> + + <td>one hundred cash.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One small basin of black cat's flesh</td> + + <td>fifty cash.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One large bottle of common wine</td> + + <td>thirty-two cash.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One small bottle of common wine</td> + + <td>sixteen cash.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One large bottle of dark rice wine</td> + + <td>sixty-eight cash.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One small basin of cat's flesh</td> + + <td>thirty-four cash.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One large bottle of plum wine</td> + + <td>sixty-eight cash.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One small bottle of plum wine</td> + + <td>thirty-four cash.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One large basin of dog's flesh</td> + + <td>sixty-eight cash.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One small bottle of pear wine</td> + + <td>thirty-four cash.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One large bottle of timtsin wine</td> + + <td>ninety-six cash.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One small bottle of timtsin wine</td> + + <td>forty-eight cash.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One basin of congee</td> + + <td>three cash.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One small plate of pickles</td> + + <td>three cash.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One small saucer of ketchup or vinegar </td> + + <td>three cash.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>One pair of black cat's eyes</td> + + <td>three kandareems of silver.</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p>The fish here, as at Hongkong, are almost always kept alive + in large tubs of water, with a fountain playing over them. They + even keep some sea-fish alive in salt water. But it is in the + north of China that they excel in rearing fish in large + quantities. At Foo-chow cormorant fishing may be seen to great + perfection, and it is said to be a very amusing sight.</p> + + <p>At last the city gates were reached, and we once more found + ourselves outside the walls, and able to breathe again. Here a + halt was made, and several of the party got out of their chairs + and walked, and we were able to chat, whilst we wended our way + by a narrow path through nursery gardens and graveyards. In + fact the whole of the White Cloud Mountain is one vast + cemetery—it is the <span class="pagenum">Page + 395<a name="Page_395" + id="Page_395"></a></span>Chinese Holy of Holies, whither + their bodies are sent, not only from all parts of China, but + from all parts of the world. Frequently a shipload of 1,500 + or 1,600 bodies arrives in one day. The Steamboat Company + charges 40 dollars for the passage of a really live + Chinaman, as against 160 dollars for the carriage of a dead + celestial. The friends of the deceased often keep the bodies + in coffins above ground for several years, until the priests + announce that they have discovered a lucky day and a lucky + spot for the interment. This does not generally happen until + he—the priest—finds he can extract no more money + by divination, and that no more funeral feasts will be given + by the friends. We passed through what they call the city of + the dead, where thousands of coffins waiting for interment + were lying above ground. The coffins are large and massive, + but very plain, resembling the hollowed-out trunk of a tree. + The greatest compliment a Chinese can pay his older + relatives is to make them a present of four handsome + longevity boards for their coffins. Outside the city of the + dead were the usual adjuncts of a large + burying-place—coffin-makers and stone-carvers, all + living in dirty little cottages, surrounded by pigs, ducks, + and young children.</p> + + <p>Leaving the cemetery and cottages behind, a too short drive + brought us to a lovely valley, where we were to lunch at the + temple of San Chew, in one of its fairest gorges. The meal was + spread in a large hall in a most luxurious manner, and as the + wind changed almost immediately, and it came on to rain, we + felt ourselves fortunate indeed in having reached shelter. We + had plenty of wraps, and the bearers ran us down the hill again + very quickly, so that we suffered no discomfort.</p> + + <p>By the time the city walls were reached, the rain had + ceased, and a glorious red sunset glowed over the roofs, + glinting through the holes in the mats, and lighting up all the + vermilion boards and gold characters with which the houses and + shops are decorated. The shadowy streets + <span class="pagenum">Page 396<a name="Page_396" + id="Page_396"></a></span>were now full of incense or rather + joss-stick smoke, for every house and every shop has a large + altar inside, and a small one without, before which + joss-sticks are burnt more or less all day long.</p> + + <p>The streets seemed more crowded even than usual. Each of our + bearers struck out a line of his own, and it was not until we + reached Shameen that we all met again. Some of the ladies had + been rather frightened at finding themselves alone in the dark, + crowded city. We were only just in time to dress and go to + dinner, after which we examined an interesting collection, + chiefly of coins, in process of formation for the French + Exhibition. They are carefully arranged, and will be most + valuable and interesting when complete. The knife-and-fork + coins are particularly curious and rare, some of them being + worth as much as 5,000 dollars each, as curiosities. All the + coins have holes in the centre for convenience of carriage.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, March 4th</i>.—There is a fine cathedral at + Shameen, in which the services are beautifully performed. A + lady kindly lent us her house-boat, and after service we rowed + across to Fa-ti, to see the gardens of Canton. They are laid + out on an island a very short way up the river. The gardens are + very wonderful, and contain plants cut into all sorts of + shapes, such as men, birds, beasts, fishes, boats, houses, + furniture, &c. Some are full-sized, others only in + miniature. But almost all must have required considerable time + and patience to reach their present growth, for their ages vary + from 10 to 150 years. There are other plants not so elaborately + trained, but the effect of the whole is rather too formal to be + pretty. I managed to bring home some euphorbias, cut into the + form of junks, and some banyan trees, one 100 and one 50 years + old. I believe they are the first that have ever reached + England alive and have flourished. Not far from Fa-ti are the + duck-hatching establishments, and still further up the river + are the duck-sampans, where the crowds of ducks are reared. + They are <span class="pagenum">Page 397<a name="Page_397" + id="Page_397"></a></span>sent out every morning to get their + own living and return at night. Until they learn to obey + their keeper's call quickly the last duck is always whipped. + I am told it is most ridiculous to see the hurry of the last + half-dozen birds of a flock of some thousands of ducks. I + was most anxious to see them, but it is not the right time + of year now. The young ducks are only just beginning to + hatch, and the old ones are not numerous, and are mostly + laying.</p> + + <p>There was no time to go and see the temple of Honan, for we + were more anxious to avail ourselves of a chance of visiting + some interesting places in the Chinese city. We went through a + street, consisting entirely of fruiterers' shops, to which the + name of Kwohlaorn, or fruit-market, is applied. In this market, + which is of great extent, there is for sale at all seasons of + the year an almost countless variety of fruit.</p> + + <p>A silkworm establishment was pointed out to us in the + distance, but we did not go over it, as we had seen many + before, and it is not the best season of the year. The + silkworms are most carefully tended, the people who look after + them being obliged to change their clothes before entering the + rooms where they are kept, and to perform all sorts of + superstitious ceremonies at every stage of the insect's growth. + No one at all ailing or deformed is allowed to approach a + building where they are kept. The worms are supposed to be very + nervous, and are guarded from everything that can possibly + frighten them, as well as from all changes of temperature or + disturbances of the atmosphere. Thunder and lightning they are + supposed specially to dread, and great pains are taken to + shelter them by artificial means, and keep them from all + knowledge of the storm.</p> + + <p>The next place we visited was a bird's-nest-soup-shop + street, where we went into one of the best and most extensive + establishments. There were three or four well-dressed + assistants behind the counter, all busily occupied in sorting + and packing birds' nests. Some of the best were as white as + snow, and were worth two dollars each, + <span class="pagenum">Page 398<a name="Page_398" + id="Page_398"></a></span>while a light brown one was worth + only one dollar, and the black dirty ones, full of feathers + and moss, could be purchased at the rate of a quarter + dollar.</p> + + <p>Certainly the Chinese seem an exception to the rule laid + down by some writers, that no people can flourish who do not + rest every seventh day. In many ways they are an abnormal + people, one striking point in their condition being the state + of dirt and filth in which they not only exist, but increase + and multiply. The children look healthy and happy too, in spite + of these apparent drawbacks, and notwithstanding the fact that + in many cases their poor little feet must be cruelly tortured + by the practice of bandaging them tightly to make them + small.</p> + + <p>When we got back to Shameen there was time for a stroll + along the Bund. It is very pleasant, for the river runs close + under the parapet, and its surface is always covered with + junks, sampans, and boats and ships, going swiftly up or down + with the strong tide. The walk is shaded with trees, and seats + stand at intervals all along it.</p> + + <p>An agreeable saunter was followed by a quiet, pleasant + little dinner, and though we have been here only a few days we + feel quite sorry that this is to be our last night in Canton, + so kind has everybody been to us.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_413" + id="Illus_413"></a> <img src="images/413.gif" + width="405" + height="276" + alt="Illustration: Chinese Foot and boot" + title="Illustration: Chinese Foot and boot" /> + </div> + + <p><i>Monday, March 5th</i>.—I was awake and writing from + half-past four this morning, but before I got up, a woman who + comes here every day to work brought me some small ordinary + shoes which I had purchased as curiosities, and took the + opportunity of showing me her feet. It really made me shudder + to look at them, so deformed and cramped up were they, and, as + far as I could make out, she must have suffered greatly in the + process of reducing them to their present diminutive size. She + took off her own shoes and tottered about the room in + <span class="pagenum">Page 399<a name="Page_399" + id="Page_399"></a></span>those she had brought, and then + asked me to show her one of mine. Having most minutely + examined it, she observed, with a melancholy shake of the + head, 'Missisy foot much more good, do much walky, walky; + mine much bad, no good for walky.'</p> + + <p>Having said farewell to our kind hostess, we went off in the + house-boat to the steamer. There was a great crowd on the lower + deck—at least 900 Chinamen—to struggle through in + order to reach the European quarters. We found other friends on + board, who had come to see us off.</p> + + <p>A few minutes before nine o'clock the bell rang as a signal + for our friends' departure, and we steamed ahead, among such a + crowd of sampans and junks that it was more like moving through + a town than along a river. No accident, however, occurred, + though one junk and one sampan had the very narrowest + escape.</p> + + <p>The voyage down took much longer than our voyage up, on + account of the tide being against us, and in consequence we did + not reach Hongkong until 3.30 p.m., when the gig with the + children was soon alongside. We got off as soon as we could, + for we expected some friends to afternoon tea on board the + yacht. There was just time to dress before the first visitors + arrived, and by half-past six at least two hundred had come. At + one time quite a flotilla of boats lay around us, looking very + pretty with all their flags flying. I think the people enjoyed + it very much as something new, and we only wanted a band to + enliven the proceedings.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, March 6th</i>.—The little girls and I went + ashore at 7.30, to collect all our purchases with the help of a + friend. We glanced at the museum too, which contains some + curious specimens of Chinese and Japanese arms and armour, and + the various productions of the two countries, besides many + strange things from the Philippine and other islands. I was + specially interested in the corals and shells. There were + splendid conch shells from Manilla, <span class="pagenum">Page + 400<a name="Page_400" + id="Page_400"></a></span>and a magnificent group of Venus + flower-baskets, dredged from some enormous depth near + Manilla. There were also good specimens of reptiles of all + sorts, and of the carved birds' heads for which Canton is + famous. They look very like amber, and are quite as + transparent, being carved to a great depth. I believe the + bird is a kind of toucan or hornbill, but the people here + call it a crane.</p> + + <p>It was now time to say good-bye to Hongkong and to our kind + friends, for we had to go on board the 'Flying Cloud,' which + starts for Macao at two o'clock precisely, and our passages had + been taken in her. Tom could not go with us, as he had fixed + to-night for the dinner at which the Chinese gentlemen proposed + to entertain him; but he came to see us off. We went out of the + harbour by a different way, and passed along a different side + of the island of Hongkong, but the scenery was not particularly + interesting. Off Choolong a heavy ground-swell, called 'Pon + choughai,' made us roll about most unpleasantly. In bad + weather, or with a top-heavy ship, this passage could not be + attempted. Sometimes there are very heavy fogs, and always + strong currents, so that the short voyage of forty-two miles is + not absolutely free from danger.</p> + + <p>The town of Macao is situated on a peninsula at the end of + the island of the same name. It was the first foreign + settlement in China belonging to the Portuguese, and was once a + fine, handsome town, with splendid buildings. Unfortunately + Macao lies in the track of the typhoons, which at times sweep + over it with a resistless force, shattering and smashing + everything in their career. These constantly recurring storms, + and the establishment of other ports, have resulted in driving + many people away from the place, and the abolition of the + coolie traffic has also tended to diminish the number of + traders. Now the town has a desolate, deserted appearance, and + the principal revenue of the government is derived from the + numerous gambling-houses.<span class="pagenum">Page + 401<a name="Page_401" + id="Page_401"></a></span></p> + + <p>We landed at the pier soon after five o'clock, and were + carried across the peninsula through the town to the Praya on + the other side. Here we found a large unoccupied mansion, + situated in a garden overlooking the sea, and, having delivered + our Chinese letters, were received with the greatest civility + and attention by the comprador and the servants who had been + left in charge of our friend's house. The rooms upstairs, to + which we were at once shown, were lofty and spacious, opening + into a big verandah. Each room had a mosquito room inside it, + made of wire gauze and wood, like a gigantic meat-safe, and + capable of containing, besides a large double bed, a chair and + a table, so that its occupant is in a position to read and + write in peace, even after dark. This was the first time we had + seen one of these contrivances. By the direction of the + comprador the house chairs were prepared, and coolies were + provided to take us for an expedition round the town, while our + things were being unpacked, and the necessary arrangements made + for our comfort. Macao is a thoroughly Portuguese-looking town, + the houses being painted blue, green, red, yellow, and all + sorts of colours. It is well garrisoned, and one meets soldiers + in every direction. We passed the fort, and went up to the + lighthouse, which commands a fine view over land and sea; + returning home by a different way through the town again, which + we entered just as the cathedral bell and the bells of all the + churches were pealing the Ave Maria. On our return we found a + fire lighted and everything illuminated, and by half-past eight + we had a capital impromptu dinner served. Chinese Tommy, who + waited on us, had decorated the table most tastefully with + flowers. Macao is a favourite resort for the European residents + of Hongkong who are addicted to gambling. The gentlemen of our + party went to observe the proceedings, but to-night there were + only a few natives playing at fan-tan—a game which, + though a great favourite with the natives, appears very stupid + to a European. The croupier takes <span class="pagenum">Page + 402<a name="Page_402" + id="Page_402"></a></span>a handful of copper cash and throws + it upon the table; he then with chop-sticks counts the coins + by fours, the betting being upon the possible number of the + remainder. It takes a long time to count a big handful, and + you have only one, two, three, or four to back—no + colours or combinations, as at <i>rouge-et-noir</i>, or + <i>trente-et-quarante</i>.</p> + + <p>At Macao the sleep-disturbing watchmen, unlike those of + Canton, come round every hour and beat two sharp taps on a drum + at intervals of half a minute, compelling you to listen against + your will, until the sound dies away in the distance for a + brief interval.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, March 7th</i>.—We started soon after ten + o'clock on another exploring expedition, going first in chairs + through the town, and across the peninsula to where we left the + steamer yesterday. Here we embarked—chairs, bearers, and + all, in a junk, evidently cleaned up for the occasion, for it + was in beautiful order, and mats were spread under an awning + upon deck.</p> + + <p>All along beneath the deck was a cabin, between two and + three feet high, which contained the altar, the kitchen, and + the sleeping and living apartments of the family. There was + also a dear little baby, two months old, which seemed to take + life very quietly, while its mother assisted its grandfather to + row.</p> + + <p>We soon reached the island of Chock-Sing-Toon, and + disembarked at a small pier near a village, which looked more + like sampans pulled up on the shore than huts or cottages. The + children and I rode in chairs, while the gentlemen walked, + first over a plain covered with scrubby palms, then through + miles of well-cultivated plots of vegetable ground, till we + reached a temple, built at the entrance to the valley for which + we were bound. Thence the path wound beside the stream flowing + from the mountains above, and the vegetation became extremely + luxuriant and beautiful. Presently we came to a spot where a + stone bridge spanned the torrent, with a temple on one side and + <span class="pagenum">Page 403<a name="Page_403" + id="Page_403"></a></span>a joss-house on the other. It was + apparently a particularly holy place, for our men had all + brought quantities of joss-sticks and sacred paper with them + to burn. There was a sort of eating-house close by, where + they remained whilst we climbed higher up to get a view. The + path was well made, and evidently much used, judging from + the large number of natural temples we found adapted and + decorated among the rocks. As usual, our descent was a + comparatively quick affair, and we soon found ourselves on + board the junk on our way back to Macao, beating across the + harbour.</p> + + <p>Just before tiffin the yacht made her appearance, causing + great excitement in the minds of the natives. The gig was soon + lowered and came as close as she could. There was not water + enough for her to come within four miles of the shore, but we + went out to meet her occupants. Tom, who was one of them, + looked so ill and miserable that I felt quite alarmed for a few + minutes, till the doctor comforted me by assurances that it was + only the effect of the Chinese dinner last night—an + explanation I had no difficulty in accepting as the correct one + after perusing the bill of fare. In their desire to do him + honour, and to give him pleasure, his hosts had provided the + rarest delicacies, and of course he felt obliged to taste them + all. Some of the dishes were excellent, but many of them were + rather trying to a European digestion, especially the fungus + and lichen. One sort had been grown on ice in the Antarctic + Sea, the whale's sinews came from the Arctic Ocean, the shark's + fins from the South Sea Islands, and the birds' nests were of a + quality to be found only in one particular cave in one + particular island. To drink, they had champagne in English + glasses, and arrack in Chinese glasses. The whole dinner was + eaten with chop-sticks, though spoons were allowed for the + soup. After dinner there were some good speeches, the chief + host expressing his deep regret that their manners and customs + did not permit them to ask <span class="pagenum">Page + 404<a name="Page_404" + id="Page_404"></a></span>ladies, as they were particularly + anxious to invite me, and had only abandoned the idea of + doing so after considerable discussion. I append the bill of + fare:—</p> + + <p class="ctr"><i>March</i> 6, 1877.<br /> + <br /> + BILL OF FARE.</p> + + <p>4 <i>courses of small bowls, one to each guest, + viz</i>.—</p> + + <p class="ctr"><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Bird's-nest + Soup</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Pigeon's Eggs</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Ice Fungus (said to grow in + ice)</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Shark's Fins + (chopped)</span></p> + + <p>8 <i>large bowls, viz</i>.—</p> + + <p class="ctr"><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Stewed Shark's + Fins</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Fine Shell Fish</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Mandarin Bird's + Nest</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Canton Fish Maw</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Fish Brain</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Meat Balls with Rock + Fungus</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Pigeons stewed with Wai Shan + (a strengthening herb)</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Stewed Mushroom</span></p> + + <p>4 <i>dishes, viz</i>.—</p> + + <p class="ctr"><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Sliced + Ham</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Roast Mutton</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Fowls</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Roast Sucking Pig</span></p> + + <p>1 <i>large dish, viz</i>.—</p> + + <p class="ctr"><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Boiled Rock + Fish</span></p> + + <p>8 <i>small bowls, viz</i>.—</p> + + <p class="ctr"><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Stewed Pig's + Palate</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Minced Quails</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Stewed Fungus (another + description)</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Sinews of the Whale + Fish</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Rolled Roast + Fowl</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Sliced Teals</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Stewed Duck's + Paw</span><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Peas stewed</span></p> + + <p>We went all round the town, and then to see the ruins of the + cathedral, and the traces of the destruction caused by the + typhoon in 1874. Next we paid a visit to the garden + <span class="pagenum">Page 405<a name="Page_405" + id="Page_405"></a></span>of Camoens, where he wrote his + poems in exile<a name="FNanchor_20_20" + id="FNanchor_20_20">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_20_20" + class="fnanchor">[20]</a> The garden now belongs to a most + courteous old Portuguese, with whom I managed, by the aid of + a mixture of Spanish and French, to hold a conversation. The + place where Camoens' monument is erected commands, however, + an extensive prospect, but we had already seen it, and as + Tom was anxious to get clear of the islands before dark we + were obliged to hasten away.</p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_20_20" + id="Footnote_20_20"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> + Luiz de Camoens, a celebrated Portuguese poet, born + about 1520; fought against the Moors, and in India; but + was often in trouble, and was frequently banished or + imprisoned. During his exile in Macao he wrote his great + poem 'The Lusiads,' in which he celebrates the principal + events in Portuguese history.</p> + </div> + + <p>On reaching the yacht, after some delay in embarking, we + slipped our anchor as quickly as possible, and soon found + ourselves in a nasty rolling sea, which sent me to bed at once. + Poor Tom, though he felt so ill that he could hardly hold his + head up, was, however, obliged to remain on deck watching until + nearly daylight; for rocks and islands abound in these seas, + and no one on board could undertake the pilotage except + himself.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, March 8th</i>.—When I went on deck at + half-past six o'clock there was nothing to be seen but a leaden + sky, a cold grey rolling sea, and two fishing junks in the far + distance, nor did the weather improve all day.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, March 9th</i>.—Everybody began to settle + down to the usual sea occupations. There was a general + hair-cutting all round, one of the sailors being a capital + barber, and there is never time to attend to this matter when + ashore. The wind was high and baffling all day. At night the + Great Bear and the Southern Cross shone out with rivalling + brilliancy: 'On either hand an old friend and a new.'</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, March 10th</i>.—A fine day, with a light + fair breeze. Passed the island of Hainan, belonging to China, + situated at the entrance of the Gulf of Tonquin, which, + <span class="pagenum">Page 406<a name="Page_406" + id="Page_406"></a></span>though very barren-looking, + supports a population of 150,000.</p> + + <p>Repacked the curiosities and purchases from Canton and + Hongkong, and made up our accounts.</p> + + <p>About noon we passed a tall bamboo sticking straight up out + of the water, and wondered if it were the topmast of some + unfortunate junk sunk on the Paranella Shoal. There were many + flying-fish about, and the sunset was lovely.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, March 11th</i>.—We feel that we are going + south rapidly, for the heat increases day by day. The services + were held on deck at eleven and four.</p> + + <p>About five o'clock I heard cries of 'A turtle on the + starboard bow,' 'A wreck on the starboard bow.' I rushed out to + see what it was, and the men climbed into the rigging to obtain + a better view of the object. It proved to be a large piece of + wood, partially submerged, apparently about twenty or thirty + feet long. The exposed part was covered with barnacles and + seaweed, and there was a large iron ring attached to one end. + We were sailing too fast to stop, or I should have liked to + have sent a boat to examine this 'relic of the sea' more + closely. These waifs and strays always set me thinking and + wondering, and speculating as to what they were originally, + whence they came, and all about them, till Tom declares I weave + a complete legend for every bit of wood we meet floating + about.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, March 13th</i>.—About 2.30 a.m. the main + peak halyards were carried away. Soon after we gybed, and for + two or three hours knocked about in the most unpleasant manner. + At daybreak we made the island of Pulu Lapata, or Shoe Island, + situated on the coast of Cochin China, looking snowy white in + the early morning light.</p> + + <p>The day was certainly warm, though we were gliding on + steadily and pleasantly before the north-east monsoon.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, March 14th</i>.—The monsoon sends us + along at the rate of from six to seven knots an hour, without + the <span class="pagenum">Page 407<a name="Page_407" + id="Page_407"></a></span>slightest trouble or inconvenience. + There is an unexpected current, though, which sets us about + twenty-five miles daily to the westward, notwithstanding the + fact that a 'southerly current' is marked on the chart.</p> + + <p><i>March 16th</i>.—There was a general scribble going + on all over the ship, in preparation for the post to-morrow, as + we hope to make Singapore to-night, or very early in the + morning. About noon Pulo Aor was seen on our starboard bow. In + the afternoon, being so near the Straits, the funnel was raised + and steam got up. At midnight we made the Homburgh Light, and + shortly afterwards passed a large steamer steering north. It + was a glorious night, though very hot below, and I spent most + of it on deck with Tom, observing the land as we slowly steamed + ahead half speed.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 408<a name="Page_408" + id="Page_408"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" + id="CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">SINGAPORE.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>Betwixt them lawns, or level downs, and + flocks</i><br /></span> <span><i>Grazing the tender + herb, were interpos'd</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Or + palmy hillock, or the flow'ry lap</i><br /></span> + <span><i>Of some irriguous valley spread her + store</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Flowers of all hues, + and without thorn the rose</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Saturday, March 17th</i>.—We were off Singapore + during the night. At 5 a.m. the pilot came on board and took us + into Tangong Pagar to coal alongside the wharf. We left the + ship as soon as possible, and in about an hour we had taken + forty-three tons of coal on board and nearly twenty tons of + water. The work was rapidly performed by coolies. It was a + great disappointment to be told by the harbour-master that the + Governor of the Straits Settlement and Lady Jervoise were to + leave at eleven o'clock for Johore. We determined to go + straight to the Government House and make a morning call at the + unearthly hour of 8 a.m. The drive from the wharf was full of + beauty, novelty, and interest. We had not landed so near the + line before, and the most tropical of tropical plants, trees, + flowers, and ferns, were here to be seen, growing by the + roadside on every bank and dust-heap.</p> + + <p>The natives, Malays, are a fine-looking, copper-coloured + race, wearing bright-coloured sarongs and turbans. There are + many Indians, too, from Madras, almost black, and swathed in + the most graceful white muslin garments, when they are not too + hard at work to wear anything at all. The young women are very + good-looking. They wear not <span class="pagenum">Page + 409<a name="Page_409" + id="Page_409"></a></span>only one but several rings, and + metal ornaments in their noses, and a profusion of metal + bangles on their arms and legs, which jingle and jangle as + they move.</p> + + <p>The town of Singapore itself is not imposing, its streets, + or rather roads of wooden huts and stone houses, being mixed + together indiscriminately. Government House is on the outskirts + of the city in the midst of a beautiful park which is kept in + excellent order, the green turf being closely mown and dotted + with tropical trees and bushes. The House itself is large and + handsome, and contains splendid suites of lofty rooms, shaded + by wide verandahs, full of ferns and palms, looking deliciously + green and cool. We found the Governor and his family did not + start until 11.30, and they kindly begged us to return to + breakfast at half-past nine, which we did. Before finally + leaving, Sir William Jervoise sent for the Colonial Secretary, + and asked him to look after us in his absence. He turned out to + be an old schoolfellow and college friend of Tom's at Rugby and + Oxford; so the meeting was a very pleasant one. As soon as the + Governor and his suite had set off for Johore we went down into + the hot dusty town to get our letters, parcels, and papers, and + to look at the shops. There are not many Malay specialities to + be bought here; most of the curiosities come from India, China, + and Japan, with the exception of birds of Paradise from New + Guinea, and beautiful bright birds of all colours and sizes + from the various islands in the Malay Archipelago.</p> + + <p>The north-east monsoon still blows fresh and strong, but it + was nevertheless terribly hot in the streets, and we were very + glad to return to the cool, shady rooms at Government House, + where we thoroughly appreciated the delights of the punkah.</p> + + <p>There are very few European servants here, and they all have + their own peons to wait on them, and carry an umbrella over + them when they drive the carriage or go for a walk on their own + account. Even the private soldier <span class="pagenum">Page + 410<a name="Page_410" + id="Page_410"></a></span>in Singapore has a punkah pulled + over his bed at night. It is quite a sight to meet all the + coolies leaving barracks at 5 a.m., when they have done + punkah-pulling.</p> + + <p>At four o'clock Mr. Douglas called to take us for a drive. + We went first to the Botanical Gardens, and saw sago-palms and + all sorts of tropical produce flourishing in perfection. There + were many beautiful birds and beasts, Argus pheasants, Lyre + birds, cuckoos, doves, and pigeons, more like parrots than + doves in the gorgeous metallic lustre of their plumage. The + cages were large, and the enclosures in front full of Cape + jasmine bushes (covered with buds) for the birds to peck at and + eat.</p> + + <p>From the gardens we went for a drive through the pretty + villas that surround Singapore in every direction. Every house + outside the town is built on a separate little hill in order to + catch every breath of fresh air. There is generally rather a + long drive up to the houses, and the public roads run along the + valleys between them.</p> + + <p>It was now dark, and we returned to dine at Government + House.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, March 18th</i>.—At six o'clock this morning + Mabelle and I went ashore with the steward and the comprador to + the market. It is a nice, clean, octagonal building, well + supplied with vegetables and curious fruits. The latter are + mostly brought from the other islands, as this is the worst + season of the year in Singapore for fruit. I do not quite + understand why this should be, for, as it is only a degree + above the line, there is very little variation in the seasons + here. The sun always rises and sets at six o'clock all the year + round; for months they have a north-east monsoon, and then for + months together a south-west monsoon.</p> + + <p>We tasted many fruits new to us—delicious mangosteens, + lacas, and other fruits whose names I could not ascertain. + Lastly, we tried a durian, <i>the</i> fruit of the East, as it + is called by people who live here, and having got + <span class="pagenum">Page 411<a name="Page_411" + id="Page_411"></a></span>over the first horror of the + onion-like odour we found it by no means bad.</p> + + <p>The fish market is the cleanest, and best arranged, and + sweetest smelling that I ever went through. It is situated on a + sort of open platform, under a thick thatched roof, built out + over the sea, so that all the refuse is easily disposed of and + washed away by the tide. From the platform on which it stands, + two long jetties run some distance out into the sea, so that + large fishing boats can come alongside and discharge their + cargoes from the deep at the door of the market with scarcely + any exposure to the rays of the tropical sun.</p> + + <p>The poultry market is a curious place. On account of the + intense heat everything is brought alive to the market, and the + quacking, cackling, gobbling, and crowing that go on are really + marvellous. The whole street is alive with birds in baskets, + cages, and coops, or tied by the leg and thrown down anyhow. + There were curious pheasants and jungle-fowl from Perak, doves, + pigeons, quails, besides cockatoos, parrots, parrakeets, and + lories. They are all very tame and very cheap; and some of the + scarlet lories, looking like a flame of fire, chatter in the + most amusing way. I have a cage full of tiny parrots not bigger + than bullfinches, of a dark green colour, with dark red throats + and blue heads, yellow marks on the back, and red and yellow + tails. Having bought these, everybody seemed to think that I + wanted an unlimited supply of birds, and soon we were + surrounded by a chattering crowd, all with parrots in their + hands and on their shoulders. It was a very amusing sight, + though rather noisy, and the competition reduced the prices + very much. Parrakeets ranged from twelve to thirty cents + apiece, talking parrots and cockatoos from one to five dollars. + At last the vendors became so energetic that I was glad to get + into the gharry again, and drive away to a flower shop, where + we bought some gardenias for one penny a dozen, beautifully + fresh and fragrant, but with painfully short stalks. + <span class="pagenum">Page 412<a name="Page_412" + id="Page_412"></a></span></p> + + <p>Towards the end of the south-west monsoon, little native + open boats arrive from the islands 1,500 to 3,000 miles to the + southward of Singapore. Each has one little tripod mast. The + whole family live on board. The sides of the boat cannot be + seen for the multitudes of cockatoos, parrots, parrakeets, and + birds of all sorts, fastened on little perches, with very short + strings attached to them. The decks are covered with + sandal-wood. The holds are full of spice, shells, feathers, and + South Sea pearl shells. With this cargo they creep from island + to island, and from creek to creek, before the monsoon, till + they reach their destination. They stay a month or six weeks, + change their goods for iron, nails, a certain amount of pale + green or Indian red thread for weaving, and some pieces of + Manchester cotton. They then go back with the north-east + monsoon, selling their goods at the various islands on their + homeward route. There are many Dutch ports nearer than + Singapore, but they are over-regulated, and preference is given + to the free English port, where the simple natives can do as + they like so long as they do not transgress the laws.</p> + + <p>As we were going on board, we met the Maharajah of Johore's + servant, just going off with invitations to dinner, lunch, and + breakfast for the next two days for all our party, and with all + sorts of kind propositions for shooting and other + amusements.</p> + + <p>Some of our friends came off before luncheon to see the + yacht, and we returned with them to tiffin at Government House. + At four o'clock the carriage came round to take us to Johore. + We wished good-bye to Singapore and all our kind friends, and + started on a lovely drive through the tropical scenery. There + is a capital road, fifteen miles in length, across the island, + and our little ponies rattled along at a good pace. There was a + pleasant breeze and not much dust, no sun, and a stream ran the + whole way by the side of the road. The acacia + flamboyante—that splendid tree which came originally from + Rangoon and Sumatra—was <span class="pagenum">Page + 413<a name="Page_413" + id="Page_413"></a></span>planted alongside the road, and + produced a most charming effect. It is a large tree, with + large leaves of the most delicate green; on its topmost + boughs grow gorgeous clusters of scarlet flowers with yellow + centres, and the effect of these scarlet plumes tossing in + the air is truly beautiful. As we were driving along we + espied a splendid butterfly, with wings about ten inches + long. Mr. Bingham jumped out of the carriage and knocked it + down with his hat; but it was so like the colour of leaves + in grass that in the twilight nobody could distinguish it, + and, to our great disappointment, we could not find it. We + were equally unsuccessful in our attempted capture of a + water-snake a couple of feet long. We threw sticks and + stones and our syce waded into the stream, but all to no + purpose; it glided away into some safe little hole under the + bank.</p> + + <p>We reached the sea-shore about six o'clock, and found the + Maharajah's steam-launch waiting to convey us across the + Straits to the mainland. These Straits used to be the old route + to Singapore, and are somewhat intricate. Tom engaged a very + good pilot to bring the yacht round, but at the last moment + thought that he should like to bring her himself; the result + being that he arrived rather late for dinner. The Maharajah and + most of the party were out shooting when we arrived; but Sir + William Jervoise met us and showed us round the place, and also + arranged about rooms for us to dress in. Johore is a charming + place; the Straits are so narrow and full of bends that they + look more like a peaceful river or inland lake in the heart of + a tropical forest than an arm of the mighty ocean. As we + approached we had observed a good deal of smoke rising from the + jungle, and, as the shades of evening closed over the scene, we + could see the lurid glare of two extensive fires.</p> + + <p>We sat down thirty to dinner at eight o'clock. There were + the Maharajah's brothers, the Prime Minister, Harkim or judge, + and several other Malay chiefs, the Governor + <span class="pagenum">Page 414<a name="Page_414" + id="Page_414"></a></span>of the Straits Settlements, his + family and suite, and one or two people from Singapore. The + dinner was cooked and served in European style; the table + decorated with gold and silver épergnes full of + flowers, on velvet stands, and with heaps of small + cut-flower glasses full of jasmine. We were waited on by the + Malay servants of the establishment, dressed in grey and + yellow, and by the Governor's Madras servants, in white and + scarlet. The Maharajah and his native guests were all in + English evening dress, with white waistcoats, bright + turbans, and sarongs. The room was large and open on all + sides, and the fresh evening breeze, in addition to the + numerous punkahs, made it delightfully cool. The Maharajah + is a strict Mohammedan himself, and drinks nothing but + water. I spent the three hours during which the dinner + lasted in very pleasant conversation with my two neighbours. + We returned on board soon after eleven o'clock.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_429" + id="Illus_429"></a> <img src="images/t_429.jpg" + width="240" + height="178" + alt="Illustration: Maharajah of Johore's House" + title="Illustration: Maharajah of Johore's House" /><br /> + <b>Maharajah of Johore's House</b><br /> + <a href="images/429.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Monday, March 19th</i>.—Mabelle and I went ashore + at six o'clock for a drive. It was a glorious morning, with a + <span class="pagenum">Page 415<a name="Page_415" + id="Page_415"></a></span>delightfully cool breeze, and the + excursion was most enjoyable. We drove first through the old + town of Johore, once of considerable importance, and still a + place of trade for opium, indigo, pepper, and other tropical + products. Nutmeg and maize used to be the great articles of + export, but latterly the growth has failed, and, instead of + the groves we had expected to see, there were only solitary + trees. After leaving the town we went along a good road for + some distance, with cottages and clearings on either side, + until we came to a pepper and gambir plantation. The two + crops are cultivated together, and both are grown on the + edge of the jungle, for the sake of the wood, which is + burned in the preparation of the gambir. I confess that I + had never heard of the latter substance before, but I find + that it is largely exported to Europe, where it is + occasionally employed for giving weight to silks, and for + tanning purposes.</p> + + <p>The pepper garden we saw was many acres in extent. Some of + the trees in the forest close by are very fine, especially the + camphor-wood, and the great red, purple, and copper-coloured + oleanders, which grow in clumps twenty and thirty feet in + height. The orchids with which all the trees were covered, + hanging down in long tassels of lovely colours, or spread out + like great spotted butterflies and insects, were most lovely of + all. By far the most abundant was the white phalænopsis, + with great drooping sprays of pure white waxy blossoms, some + delicately streaked with crimson, others with yellow. It was a + genuine jungle, and we were told that it is the resort of + numerous tigers and elephants, and that snakes abound.</p> + + <p>On our way back through the town we stopped to see the + process of opium making. This drug is brought from India in an + almost raw state, rolled up in balls, about the size of + billiard balls, and wrapped in its own leaves. Here it is + boiled down, several times refined, and prepared for smoking. + The traffic in it forms a very profitable + <span class="pagenum">Page 416<a name="Page_416" + id="Page_416"></a></span>monopoly, which is shared in + Singapore between the English Government and the Maharajah + of Johore.</p> + + <p>We also saw indigo growing; the dye is prepared very much in + the same way as the gambir. That grown here is not so good as + that which comes from India, and it is therefore not much + exported, though it is used by the innumerable Chinese in the + Malay peninsula to dye all their clothes, which are invariably + of some deep shade of blue. We saw sago-palms growing, but the + mill was not working, so that we could not see the process of + manufacture; but it seems to be very similar to the preparation + of tapioca, which we had seen in Brazil.</p> + + <p>On our passage through the town we went to look at a large + gambling establishment; of course no one was playing so early + in the morning, but in the evening it is always densely + crowded, and is a great source of profit to the proprietor. I + could not manage to make out exactly from the description what + the game they play is like, but it was not fan-tan. We now left + the carriage, and strolled to see the people, the shops, and + the market. I bought all sorts of common curiosities, little + articles of everyday life, some of which will be sure to amuse + and interest my English friends. Among my purchases were a + wooden pillow, some joss candles, a two-stringed fiddle, and a + few preserved eggs, which they say are over a hundred years + old. The eggs are certainly nasty enough for anything; still it + seems strange that so thrifty a people as the Chinese should + allow so much capital to lie dormant—literally buried in + the earth.</p> + + <p>At half-past nine o'clock the Maharajah, with the Governor + and all his guests, came on board. His Highness inspected the + yacht with the utmost minuteness and interest, though his + Mohammedan ideas about women were considerably troubled when he + was told that I had had a great deal to do with the designing + and arrangement of the interior. At half-past eleven the party + left, and an hour afterwards we went to make our adieux to the + Maharajah. <span class="pagenum">Page 417<a name="Page_417" + id="Page_417"></a></span></p> + + <p>On our departure the Maharajah ordered twenty coolies to + accompany us, laden with fragrant tropical plants. He also gave + me some splendid Malay silk sarongs, grown, made, and woven in + his kingdom, a pair of tusks of an elephant shot within a mile + of the house, besides a live little beast, not an alligator, + and not an armadillo or a lizard; in fact I do not know what it + is; it clings round my arm just like a bracelet, and it was + sent as a present by the ex-Sultan of Johore. Having said + farewell to our kind host and other friends, we pushed off from + the shore, and embarked on board the yacht; the anchor was up, + and by five o'clock a bend in the Straits hid hospitable and + pleasant Johore from our view, and all we could see was the + special steamer on her way back to Singapore with the + Maharajah's guests on board. At Tanjore we dropped our funny + little pilot, and proceeded on our course towards Penang. The + Straits are quite lovely, and fully repaid the trouble and time + involved in the detour made to visit them. The sun set and the + young moon arose over as lovely a tropical scene as you can + possibly imagine.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_432" + id="Illus_432"></a> <img src="images/t_432.jpg" + width="144" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: The pet Manis" + title="Illustration: The pet Manis" /><br /> + <b>The pet Manis</b><br /> + <a href="images/432.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Tuesday, March 20th</i>.—At 5.30, when we were + called, the Doctor came and announced that he had something + very important to communicate to us. This proved to be that one + of our men was suffering from small-pox, and not from rheumatic + fever, as had been supposed. My first thought was that Muriel + had been with the Doctor to see him <span class="pagenum">Page + 418<a name="Page_418" + id="Page_418"></a></span>yesterday evening; my next, that + many men had been sleeping in the same part of the vessel + with him; my third, that for his greater comfort he had been + each day in our part of the ship; and my fourth, what was to + be done now? After a short consultation, Tom decided to + alter our course for Malacca, where we arrived at half-past + nine; the Doctor at once went on shore in a native prahu to + make the best arrangements he could under the circumstances. + He was fortunate enough to find Dr. Simon, nephew of the + celebrated surgeon of the same name, installed as head + physician at the civil hospital here. He came off at once + with the hospital boat, and, having visited the invalid, + declared his illness to be a very mild case of small-pox. He + had brought off some lymph with him, and recommended us all + to be re-vaccinated. He had also brought sundry + disinfectants, and gave instructions about fumigating and + disinfecting the yacht. All the men were called upon the + quarter-deck, and addressed by Tom, and we were surprised to + find what a large proportion of them objected to the + operation of vaccination. At last, however, the prejudices + of all of them, except two, were overcome. One of the latter + had promised his grandfather that he never would be + vaccinated under any circumstances, while another would + consent to be inoculated, but would not be vaccinated. We + had consulted our own medical man before leaving England, + and knew that for ourselves the operation was not necessary, + but we nevertheless underwent it <i>pour encourager les + autres</i>. While the Doctor was on shore we had been + surrounded by boats bringing monkeys, birds, ratan and + Malacca canes, fruit, rice, &c., to sell, and as I did + not care to go ashore, thinking there might be some bother + about quarantine, we made bargains over the side of the + yacht with the traders, the result being that seven monkeys, + about fifty birds of sorts, and innumerable bundles of + canes, were added to the stock on board. In the meantime Dr. + Simon had removed our invalid to the + hospital.<span class="pagenum">Page 419<a name="Page_419" + id="Page_419"></a></span></p> + + <p>Malacca looks exceedingly pretty from the sea. It is a + regular Malay village, consisting of huts, built on piles close + to the water, overshadowed by cocoa palms and other forms of + tropical vegetation. Mount Ofia rises in the distance behind; + there are many green islands, too, in the harbour. By one + o'clock we were again under way, and once more <i>en route</i> + for Penang.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_434" + id="Illus_434"></a> <img src="images/t_434.jpg" + width="240" + height="148" + alt="Illustration: MALACCA" + title="Illustration: MALACCA" /><br /> + <b>MALACCA</b><br /> + <a href="images/434.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Wednesday, March 21st</i>.—During the night we had + heavy thunder storms. About 11 a.m. we passed a piece of + drift-wood with a bird perched on the top, presenting a most + curious effect. Several of the men on board mistook it for the + back fin of a large shark. About 5 p.m. we made the island of + Penang. After sunset it became very hazy, and we crept slowly + up, afraid of injuring the numerous stake nets that are set + about the Straits most promiscuously, and without any lights to + mark their position. Before midnight we had dropped our + anchor.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, March 22nd</i>.—At 5 a.m., when we were + called, the whole sky was overcast with a lurid glare, and the + atmosphere was thick, as if with the fumes of some vast + conflagration. As the sun rose in raging fierceness, + <span class="pagenum">Page 420<a name="Page_420" + id="Page_420"></a></span>the sky cleared, and became of a + deep, clear, transparent blue. The island of Penang is very + beautiful, especially in the early morning light. It was + fortunate we did not try to come in last night, as we could + now see that we must inevitably have run through some of the + innumerable stake nets I mentioned. As we approached + Georgetown, the capital of the province, we passed many + steamers and sailing ships at anchor in the roads. A pilot + offered his services, but Tom declined them with thanks, and + soon afterwards skilfully brought us up close in shore in + the crowded roadstead. The harbour-master sent off, as did + also the mail-master, but no Board of Health officials + appeared; so, after some delay, the Doctor went on shore to + find the local medical man, promising shortly to return. He + did not, however, reappear, and, after waiting a couple of + hours, we landed without opposition. We packed off all the + servants for a run on shore, and had all the fires put out + in order to cool the ship. Our first inquiry was for an + hotel where we could breakfast, and we were recommended to + go to the Hôtel de l'Europe.</p> + + <p>Our demands for breakfast were met at first with the reply + that it was too late, and that we must wait till one o'clock + tiffin; but a little persuasion induced the manager to find + some cold meat, eggs, and lemonade. We afterwards drove out to + one or two shops, but anything so hopeless as the stores here I + never saw. Not a single curiosity could we find, not even a + bird. We drove round the town, and out to the Governor's house; + he was away, but we were most kindly received by Mrs. Anson and + his daughter, and strongly recommended by them to make an + expedition to the bungalow at the top of the hill. In about an + hour and a half, always ascending, we reached the Governor's + bungalow, situated in a charming spot, where the difference of + 10° in the temperature, caused by being 1,500 feet higher + up, is a great boon. After tiffin and a rest at the hotel, a + carriage came to take us to the foot of the hill, + <span class="pagenum">Page 421<a name="Page_421" + id="Page_421"></a></span>about four miles from the town. We + went first to a large Jesuit establishment, where some most + benevolent old priests were teaching a large number of Malay + boys reading, writing, and geography. Then we went a little + further, and, in a small wooden house, under the cocoa + trees, at last found some of the little humming birds for + which the Malay Archipelago is famous. They glisten with a + marvellous metallic lustre all over their bodies, instead of + only in patches, as one sees upon those in South America and + the West Indies. The drive was intensely tropical in + character, until we reached the waterfall, where we left the + carriage and got into chairs, each carried by six coolies. + The scenery all about the waterfall is lovely, and a large + stream of sparkling, cool, clear water tumbling over the + rocks was most refreshing to look at. Many people who have + business in Penang live up here, riding up and down morning + and evening, for the sake of the cool, refreshing night air. + One of the most curious things in vegetation which strikes + our English eyes is the extraordinary abundance of the + sensitive plant. It is interwoven with all the grass, and + grows thickly in all the hedgerows. In the neatly kept turf, + round the Government bungalow, its long, creeping, prickly + stems, acacia-like leaves, and little fluffy mauve balls of + flowers are so numerous, that, walking up and down the + croquet lawn, it appears to be bowing before you, for the + delicate plants are sensible of even an approaching + footstep, and shut up and hide their tiny leaves among the + grass long before you really reach them.</p> + + <p>From the top of the hill you can see ninety miles in the + clear atmosphere, far away across the Straits of Perak to the + mainland. We could not stay long, and were carried down the + hill backwards, as our bearers were afraid of our tumbling out + of the chairs if we travelled forwards. The tropical vegetation + is even more striking here, but, alas! it is already losing its + novelty to us. Those were indeed pleasant days when everything + was new and strange; it seems now <span class="pagenum">Page + 422<a name="Page_422" + id="Page_422"></a></span>almost as if years, not months, had + gone past since we first entered these latitudes. We found + the carriage waiting for us when we arrived at the bottom of + the hill about seven o'clock, and it was not long before we + reached the town.</p> + + <p>The glowworms and fireflies were numerous. The natives were + cooking their evening meal on the ground beneath the tall + palm-trees as we passed, with the glare of the fires lighting + up the picturesque huts, their dark figures relieved by their + white and scarlet turbans and waist-cloth. The whole scene put + us very much in mind of the old familiar pictures of India, the + lithe figures of the natives looking like beautiful bronze + statues, the rough country carts, drawn by buffaloes without + harness, but dragging by their hump, and driven by + black-skinned natives armed with a long goad. We went straight + to the jetty, and found to our surprise that in the roads there + was quite a breeze blowing, and a very strong tide running + against it, which made the sea almost rough.</p> + + <p>Mrs. and Miss Anson, Mr. Talbot, and other friends, dined + with us. At eleven they landed, and we weighed anchor, and were + soon gliding through the Straits of Malacca, shaping for Acheen + Head, <i>en route</i> to Galle.</p> + + <p>It seems strange that an important English settlement like + Penang, where so many large steamers and ships are constantly + calling, should be without lights or quarantine laws. We + afterwards learned on shore that the local government had + already surveyed and fixed a place for two leading lights. The + reason why no health officers came off to us this morning was + probably that, small-pox and cholera both being prevalent in + the town, they thought that the fewer questions they asked, and + the less they saw of incoming vessels, the better.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, March 23rd</i>.—A broiling day, everybody + panting, parrots and parrakeets dying. We passed a large barque + with every sail set, although it was a flat calm, which made us + rejoice in the possession of steam-power. Several + <span class="pagenum">Page 423<a name="Page_423" + id="Page_423"></a></span>people on board are very unwell, + and the engineer is really ill. It is depressing to + speculate what would become of us if anything went wrong in + the engine-room department, and if we should be reduced to + sail-power alone in this region of calmness. At last even I + know what it is to be too hot, and am quite knocked up with + my short experience.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_438" + id="Illus_438"></a> <img src="images/t_438.jpg" + width="229" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: How the Journal was written" + title="Illustration: How the Journal was written" /><br /> + <b>How the Journal was written</b><br /> + <a href="images/438.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Saturday, March 24th</i>.—Another flat calm. The + after-forecastle, having been battened down and fumigated for + the last seventy-two hours, was to-day opened, and its contents + brought up on deck, some to be thrown overboard, and others to + be washed with carbolic acid. I never saw such quantities of + things as were turned out; they covered the whole deck, and it + seemed as if their cubic capacity must + <span class="pagenum">Page 424<a name="Page_424" + id="Page_424"></a></span> be far greater than that of the + place in which they had been stowed. Besides the beds and + tables of eight men, there were forty-eight birds, four + monkeys, two cockatoos, and a tortoise, besides Japanese + cabinets and boxes of clothes, books, china, coral, shells, + and all sorts of imaginable and unimaginable things. One + poor tortoise had been killed and bleached white by the + chlorine gas.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, March 25th</i>.—Hotter than ever. It was + quite impossible to have service either on deck or below. We + always observe Sunday by showing a little extra attention to + dress, and, as far as the gentlemen are concerned, a little + more care in the matter of shaving. On other days I fear our + toilets would hardly pass muster in civilised society. Tom set + the example of leaving off collars, coats, and waistcoats; so + shirts and trousers are now the order of the day. The children + wear grass-cloth pinafores and very little else, no shoes or + stockings, Manilla or Chinese slippers being worn by those who + dislike bare feet. I find my Tahitian and Hawaiian dresses + invaluable: they are really cool, loose, and comfortable, and I + scarcely ever wear anything else.</p> + + <p>We passed a large steamer about 7.30 a.m., and in the + afternoon altered our course to speak the 'Middlesex,' of + London, bound to the Channel for orders. We had quite a long + conversation with the captain, and parted with mutual good + wishes for a pleasant voyage. It was a lovely moonlight night, + but very hot, though we found a delightful sleeping-place + beneath the awning on deck.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, March 26th</i>.—The sun appeared to rise + even fiercer and hotter than ever this morning. I have been + very anxious for the last few days about Baby, who has been + cutting some teeth and has suffered from a rash. Muriel has + been bitten all over by mosquitoes, and Mabelle has also + suffered from heat-rash. Just now every little ailment suggests + small-pox to our minds.</p> + + <p>About noon, when in latitude 6.25 North, and in longitude + 88.25 East, we began to encounter a great deal of drift + <span class="pagenum">Page 425<a name="Page_425" + id="Page_425"></a></span>wood, many large trees, branches, + plants, leaves, nautilus shells, back-bones of cuttlefish, + and, in addition, large quantities of yellow spawn, + evidently deposited by some fish of large size. The spawn + appeared to be of a very solid, consistent character, like + large yellow grapes, connected together in a sort of + gelatinous mass. It formed a continuous wide yellow streak + perhaps half a mile in length, and with the bits of wood and + branches sticking up in its midst at intervals, it would not + have required a very lively imagination to fashion it at a + little distance into a sea serpent. Where does all this + <i>débris</i> come from? was the question asked by + everybody. Out of the Bay of Bengal probably, judging from + the direction of the current. We wondered if it could + possibly be the remains of some of the trees uprooted by the + last great cyclone.</p> + + <p>At 1.30 p.m. a man cried out from the rigging, 'Boat on the + starboard bow!' a cry that produced great excitement + immediately; our course was altered and telescopes and glasses + brought to bear upon the object in question. Every one on + board, except our old sailing master, said it was a native + boat. Some even said that they could see a man on board waving + something. Powell alone declared it to be the root of a palm + from the Bay of Bengal, and he proved right. A very large root + it was, with one single stem and a few leaves hanging down, + which had exactly the appearance of broken masts, tattered + sails, and torn rigging. We went close alongside to have a good + look at it; the water was as clear as crystal, and beneath the + surface were hundreds of beautifully coloured fish, greedily + devouring something—I suppose small insects, or fish + entangled among the roots.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, March 27th</i>.—It requires a great effort + to do anything, except before sunrise or after sunset, owing to + the intense heat; and when one is not feeling well it makes + exertion still more difficult. At night the heat below is + simply unbearable; the cabins are deserted, and all mattresses + are brought up on deck.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 426<a name="Page_426" + id="Page_426"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XXV" + id="CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">CEYLON.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>Thus was this place</i><br /></span> + <span><i>A happy rural seat of various + views</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Groves whose rich + trees wept odorous gums and balm</i>,<br /></span> + <span><i>Others, whose fruit, burnish'd with golden + rind</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Hung amiable, Hesperian + fables true</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Wednesday, March 28th</i>.—At midnight the wind was + slightly ahead, and we could distinctly smell the fragrant + breezes and spicy odours of Ceylon. We made the eastern side of + the island at daylight, and coasted along its palm-fringed + shores all day. I had been very unwell for some days past, but + this delightful indication of our near approach to the land + seemed to do me good at once. If only the interior is as + beautiful as what we can see from the deck of the yacht, my + expectations will be fully realised, brilliant as they are.</p> + + <p>As the sun set, the beauty of the scene from the deck of the + yacht seemed to increase. We proceeded slowly, and at about + nine o'clock were in the roads of Galle and could see the ships + at anchor. Tom did not like to venture further in the dark + without a pilot, and accordingly told the signal-man to make + signals for one, but being impatient he sent up a rocket, + besides burning blue lights, a mistake which had the effect of + bringing the first officer of the P. and O. steamship 'Poonah' + on board, who thought perhaps we had got aground or were in + trouble of some sort. He also informed us that pilots never + came off after dark, and kindly offered to show us a good + anchorage for the night.<span class="pagenum">Page + 427<a name="Page_427" + id="Page_427"></a></span></p> + + <p><i>Thursday, March 29th</i>.—The pilot came off early, + and soon after six we dropped anchor in Galle harbour. The + entrance is fine, and the bay one of the most beautiful in the + world. The picturesque town, with its old buildings, and the + white surf dashing in among the splendid cocoa-trees which grow + down to the water's edge, combined to make up a charming + picture. We went on board the 'Poonah' to breakfast as + arranged, and afterwards all over the ship, which is in + splendid order. Thence we went ashore to the Oriental Company's + Hotel, a most comfortable building, with a large, shady + verandah, which to-day was crowded by passengers from the + 'Poonah.' At tiffin there was a great crowd, and we met some + old friends. At three o'clock we returned to the yacht, to show + her to the captain of the 'Poonah' and some of his friends, and + an hour later we started in two carriages for a drive to + Wockwalla, a hill commanding a splendid view. The drive was + delightful, and the vegetation more beautiful than any we have + seen since leaving Tahiti, but it would have been more + enjoyable if we had not been so pestered by boys selling + flowers and bunches of mace in various stages of development. + It certainly is very pretty when the peach-like fruit is half + open and shows the network of scarlet mace surrounding the + brown nutmeg within. From Wockwalla the view is lovely, over + paddy-fields, jungle, and virgin forest, up to the hills close + by and to the mountains beyond. There is a small + refreshment-room at the top of the hill, kept by a nice little + mulatto woman and her husband. Here we drank lemonade, ate + mangoes, and watched the sun gradually declining, but we were + obliged to leave before it had set, as we wanted to visit the + cinnamon gardens on our way back. The prettiest thing in the + whole scene was the river running through the middle of the + landscape, and the white-winged, scarlet-bodied cranes, + disporting themselves along the banks among the dark green + foliage and light green shoots of the crimson-tipped + cinnamon-trees. We had a <span class="pagenum">Page + 428<a name="Page_428" + id="Page_428"></a></span>glorious drive home along the + sea-shore under cocoa-nut trees, amongst which the fireflies + flitted, and through which we could see the red and purple + afterglow of the sunset. Ceylon is, as every one knows, + celebrated for its real gems, and almost as much for the + wonderful imitations offered for sale by the natives. Some + are made in Birmingham and exported, but many are made here + and in India, and are far better in appearance than ours, or + even those of Paris. More than once in the course of our + drive, half-naked Indians produced from their waist-cloths + rubies, sapphires, and emeralds for which they asked from + one to four thousand rupees, and gratefully took fourpence, + after a long run with the carriage, and much vociferation + and gesticulation. After <i>table-d'hôte</i> dinner at + the hotel we went off to the yacht in a pilot boat; the + buoys were all illuminated, and boats with four or five men + in them, provided with torches, were in readiness to show us + the right way out. By ten o'clock we were outside the + harbour and on our way to Colombo.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, March 30th</i>.—It rained heavily during + the night, and we were obliged to sleep in the deck-house + instead of on deck. At daylight all was again bright and + beautiful, and the cocoanut-clad coast of Ceylon looked most + fascinating in the early morning light. About ten o'clock we + dropped our anchor in the harbour at Colombo, which was crowded + with shipping. 175,000 coolies have been landed here within the + last two or three months; consequently labour is very cheap + this year in the coffee plantations.</p> + + <p>The instant we anchored we were of course surrounded by + boats selling every possible commodity and curiosity, carved + ebony, ivory, sandal-wood, and models of the curious boats in + use here. These boats are very long and narrow, with an + enormous outrigger and large sail, and when it is very rough, + nearly the whole of the crew of the boat go out one by one, and + sit on the outrigger to keep it in the water, from which + springs the Cingalese saying, 'One man, two men, four men + breeze.' The heat was intense, though there + <span class="pagenum">Page 429<a name="Page_429" + id="Page_429"></a></span>was a pleasant breeze under the + awning on deck; we therefore amused ourselves by looking + over the side and bargaining with the natives, until our + letters, which we had sent for, arrived. About one o'clock + we went ashore, encountering on our way some exceedingly + dreadful smells, wafted from ships laden with guano, bones, + and other odoriferous cargoes. The inner boat harbour is + unsavoury and unwholesome to the last degree, and is just + now crowded with many natives of various castes from the + south of India.</p> + + <p>Colombo is rather a European-looking town, with fine + buildings and many open green spaces, where there were actually + soldiers playing cricket, with great energy, under the fierce + rays of the midday sun. We went at once to an hotel and rested; + loitering after tiffin in the verandah, which was as usual + crowded with sellers of all sorts of Indian things. Most of the + day was spent in driving about, and having made our + arrangements for an early start to-morrow, we then walked down + to the harbour, getting drenched on our way by a tremendous + thunderstorm.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, March 31st</i>.—Up early, and after + rather a scramble we went ashore at seven o'clock, just in time + to start by the first train to Kandy. There was not much time + to spare, and we therefore had to pay sovereigns for our + tickets instead of changing them for rupees, thereby receiving + only ten instead of eleven and a half, the current rate of + exchange that day. It seemed rather sharp practice on the part + of the railway company (<i>alias</i> the Government) to take + sovereigns in at the window at ten rupees, and sell them at the + door for eleven and a half, to speculators waiting ready and + eager to clutch and sell them again at an infinitesimally small + profit.</p> + + <p>The line to Kandy is always described as one of the most + beautiful railways in the world, and it certainly deserves the + character. The first part of the journey is across jungle and + through plains; then one goes climbing up and up, looking down + on all the beauties of tropical vegetation, + <span class="pagenum">Page 430<a name="Page_430" + id="Page_430"></a></span>to distant mountains shimmering in + the glare and haze of the burning sun. The carriages were + well ventilated and provided with double roofs, and were + really tolerably cool.</p> + + <p>About nine o'clock we reached Ambepussa, and the scenery + increased in beauty from this point. A couple of hours later we + reached Peradeniya, the junction for Gampola. Here most of the + passengers got out, bound for Neuera-ellia, the sanatorium of + Ceylon, 7,000 feet above the sea. Soon after leaving the + station, we passed the Satinwood Bridge. Here we had a glimpse + of the botanical garden at Kandy, and soon afterwards reached + the station. We were at once rushed at by two telegraph boys, + each with a telegram of hospitable invitation, whilst a third + friend met us with his carriage, and asked us to go at once to + his house, a few miles out of Kandy. We hesitated to avail + ourselves of his kind offer, as we were such a large party; but + he insisted, and at once set off to make things ready for us, + whilst we went to breakfast and rest at a noisy, dirty, and + uncomfortable hotel. It was too hot to do anything except to + sit in the verandah and watch planter after planter come in for + an iced drink at the bar. The town is quite full for Easter, + partly for the amusements and partly for the Church services; + for on many of the coffee estates there is no church within a + reasonable distance.</p> + + <p>About four o'clock the carriage came round for us, and + having despatched the luggage in a gharry, we drove round the + lovely lake, and so out to Peradeniya, where our friend lives, + close to the Botanic Gardens. Many of the huts and cottages by + the roadside have 'small-pox' written upon them in large + letters, in three languages, English, Sanscrit, and Cingalese, + a very sensible precaution, for the natives are seldom + vaccinated, and this terrible disease is a real scourge amongst + them. Having reached the charming bungalow, it was a real + luxury to lounge in a comfortable easy chair in a deep cool + verandah, and to <span class="pagenum">Page + 431<a name="Page_431" + id="Page_431"></a></span>inhale the fragrance of the + flowers, whilst lazily watching the setting of the sun. + Directly it dipped below the horizon, glowworms and + fireflies came out, bright and numerous as though the stars + had come down to tread, or rather fly, a fairy dance among + the branches of the tall palm-trees high overhead. Our rooms + were most comfortable, and the baths delicious. After dinner + we all adjourned once more to the verandah to watch the + dancing fireflies, the lightning, and the heavy + thunderclouds, and enjoy the cool evening breeze. You in + England who have never been in the tropics cannot appreciate + the intense delight of that sensation. Then we went to bed, + and passed a most luxurious night of cool and comfortable + sleep, not tossing restlessly about, as we had been doing + for some time past.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, April 1st</i>.—I awoke before daylight. Our + bed faced the windows, which were wide open, without blinds, + curtains, or shutters, and I lay and watched the light + gradually creeping over the trees, landscape, and garden, and + the sun rising glorious from behind the distant mountains, + shining brightly into the garden, drawing out a thousand fresh + fragrances from every leaf and flower.</p> + + <p>By seven o'clock we found ourselves enjoying an early tea + within the pretty bungalow in the centre of the Botanic + Gardens, and thoroughly appreciating delicious fresh butter and + cream, the first we have tasted for ages. We went for the most + delightful stroll afterwards, and saw for the first time many + botanical curiosities, and several familiar old friends growing + in greater luxuriance than our eyes are even yet accustomed to. + The groups of palms were most beautiful. I never saw anything + finer than the tallipot-palm, and the areca, with the + beetle-vine climbing round it; besides splendid specimens of + the kitool or jaggery-palm. Then there was the palmyra, which + to the inhabitant of the North of Ceylon is what the cocoa-nut + is to the inhabitant of the South—food, clothing, and + lodging. The pitcher-plants and the rare scarlet amherstia + looked lovely, as did also the <span class="pagenum">Page + 432<a name="Page_432" + id="Page_432"></a></span>great groups of yellow and green + stemmed bamboos. There were magnolias, shaddocks, hibiscus, + the almost too fragrant yellow-flowered champac, sacred to + Hindoo mythology; nutmeg and cinnamon trees, tea and coffee, + and every other conceivable plant and tree, growing in the + wildest luxuriance. Through the centre of the gardens flows + the river Ambang Ganga, and the whole 140 acres are laid out + so like an English park that, were it not for the unfamiliar + foliage, you might fancy yourself at home.</p> + + <p>We drove back to our host's to breakfast, and directly + afterwards started in two carriages to go to church at Kandy. + The church is a fine large building, lofty, and cool, and well + ventilated. This being Easter Sunday, the building was lavishly + decorated with palms and flowers. The service was well + performed, and the singing was excellent. The sparrows flew in + and out by the open doors and windows. One of the birds was + building a nest in a corner, and during the service she added + to it a marabout feather, a scrap of lace, and an end of pink + riband. It will be a curious nest when finished, if she adds at + this rate to her miscellaneous collection.</p> + + <p>After church we walked to the Government House. Sir William + Gregory is, unfortunately for us, away in Australia, and will + not return till just after our departure. The entrance to it + was gay with gorgeous scarlet lilies, brought over by some + former Governor from South America. It is a very fine house, + but unfinished. We wandered through the 'banquet halls + deserted,' and then sat a little while in the broad cool airy + verandah looking into the beautiful garden and on to the + mountain beyond.</p> + + <p>At half-past eleven it was time to leave this delightfully + cool retired spot, and to drive to a very pleasant luncheon, + served on a polished round walnut-wood table, without any + tablecloth, a novel and pretty plan in so hot a climate. As + soon as it became sufficiently cool we went on round the upper + lake and to the hills above, whence we + <span class="pagenum">Page 433<a name="Page_433" + id="Page_433"></a></span>looked down upon Kandy, one of the + most charmingly placed cities in the world. As we came back + we stopped for a few minutes at the Court, a very fair + specimen of florid Hindoo architecture, where the judges + sit, and justice of all kinds is administered, and where the + Prince of Wales held the installation of the Order of St. + Michael and St. George during his visit. We also looked in + at some of the bazaars, to examine the brass chatties and + straw-work. Then came another delicious rest in the verandah + among the flowers until it was time for dinner. Such flowers + as they are! The Cape jessamines are in full beauty just + now, and our host breaks off for us great branches laden + with the fragrant bloom.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, April 2nd</i>.—Before breakfast I took a + stroll all round the place, with our host, to look at his + numerous pets, which include spotted deer, monkeys, and all + sorts of other creatures. We also went to the stables, and saw + first the horses, and the horsekeepers with their pretty Indian + wives and children. Then we wandered down to the bamboo-fringed + shores of the river, which rises in the mountains here, and + flows right through the island to Trincomalee.</p> + + <p>At eleven o'clock Tom and I said 'good-bye' to the rest of + the party, and went by train to Gampola, to take the coach to + Neuera-ellia, where we were to stay with an old friend. We went + only a dozen miles in the train, and then were turned out into + what is called a coach, but is really a very small rough + wagonnette, capable of holding six people with tolerable + comfort, but into which seven, eight, and even nine were + crammed. By the time the vehicle was fully laden, we found + there was positively no room for even the one box into which + Tom's things and my own had all been packed; so we had to take + out indispensable necessaries, and tie them up in a bundle like + true sailors out for a holiday, leaving our box behind, in + charge of the station-master, until our return. The first part + of <span class="pagenum">Page 434<a name="Page_434" + id="Page_434"></a></span> the drive was not very + interesting, the road passing only through paddy-fields and + endless tea and coffee plantations. We reached Pusillawa + about two o'clock, where we found a rough and ready sort of + breakfast awaiting us. Thence we had a steep climb through + some of the finest coffee estates in Ceylon, belonging to + the Rothschilds, until we reached Rangbodde. Here there was + another delay of half an hour; but although we were anxious + to get on, to arrive in time for dinner, it was impossible + to regret stopping amidst this lovely scenery. The house + which serves as a resting-place is a wretched affair, but + the view from the verandah in front is superb. A large river + falls headlong over the steep wall of rock, forming three + splendid waterfalls, which, uniting and rushing under a fine + one-arched bridge, complete this scene of beauty and + grandeur.</p> + + <p>We were due at Neuera-ellia at six, but we had only one pair + of horses to drag our heavy load up the steep mountain road, + and the poor creatures jibbed, kicked over the traces, broke + them three times, and more than once were so near going over + the edge of the precipice that I jumped out, and the other + passengers, all gentlemen, walked the whole of that stage. The + next was no better, the fresh pair of horses jibbing and + kicking worse than ever. At last one kicked himself free of all + the harness, and fell on his back in a deep ditch. If it had + not been so tiresome, it really would have been very laughable, + especially as everybody was more or less afraid of the poor + horse's heels, and did not in the least know how to extricate + him.</p> + + <p>In this dilemma our hunting experiences came in usefully, + for with the aid of a trace, instead of a stirrup leather, + passed round his neck, half-a-dozen men managed to haul the + horse on to his legs again; but the pitchy darkness rendered + the repair of damages an exceedingly difficult task. The + horses, moreover, even when once more in their proper position, + declined to move, but the gentlemen pushed and the drivers + flogged and shouted, <span class="pagenum">Page + 435<a name="Page_435" + id="Page_435"></a></span>and very slowly and with many stops + we ultimately reached the end of that stage. Here we found a + young horse, who had no idea at all of harness; so after a + vain attempt to utilise his services, another was sent for, + thus causing further delay.</p> + + <p>It was now nine o'clock, and we were all utterly exhausted. + We managed to procure from a cottage some new-laid eggs and + cold spring water, and these eaten raw, with a little brandy + from a hunting-flask, seemed to refresh us all. There was again + a difficulty in starting, but, once fairly under way, the road + was not so steep and the horses went better. I was now so + tired, and had grown so accustomed to hairbreadth escapes, + that, however near we went to the edge of the precipice, I did + not feel capable of jumping out, but sat still and watched + listlessly, wondering whether we should really go over or not. + After many delays we reached Head-quarter House, where the + warmth of the welcome our old friend gave us soon made us + forget how tired we were. They had waited dinner until + half-past seven, and had then given us up. There were blazing + wood fires both in the drawing-room and in our bedroom, and in + five minutes a most welcome dinner was put before us. + Afterwards we could have stayed and chatted till midnight, but + we were promptly sent off to bed, and desired to reserve the + rest of our news until morning.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, April 3rd</i>.—A ten o'clock breakfast + afforded us ample opportunity for a delicious rest and + letter-writing beforehand. Afterwards we strolled round the + garden, full of English flowers, roses, carnations, mignonette, + and sweet peas. Tom and the gentlemen went for a walk, whilst + we ladies rested and chatted and wrote letters.</p> + + <p>After lunch we all started—a large party—to go + to the athletic sports on the racecourse, where an impromptu + sort of grand stand had been erected—literally a stand, + for there were no seats. There were a great many people, and + the regimental band played very well. To us it appeared a + <span class="pagenum">Page 436<a name="Page_436" + id="Page_436"></a></span>warm damp day, although the weather + was much cooler than any we have felt lately. This is + <i>the</i> week of the year, and everybody is here from all + parts of the island. People who have been long resident in + the tropics seem to find it very cold; for the men wore + great-coats and ulsters, and many of the ladies velvet and + sables, or sealskin jackets. On the way back from the sports + we drove round to see something of the settlement; it cannot + be called a town, for though there are a good many people + and houses, no two are within half a mile of one another. + There are two packs of hounds kept here, one to hunt the big + elk, the other a pack of harriers. The land-leeches, which + abound in this neighbourhood, are a great plague to horses, + men, and hounds. It rained last night, and I was specially + cautioned not to go on the grass or to pick flowers, as + these horrid creatures fix on one's ankle or arm without the + slightest warning. I have only seen one, I am thankful to + say, and have escaped a bite; but everybody seems to dread + and dislike them.</p> + + <p>After dinner we went to a very pleasant ball, given by the + Jinkhana Club, at the barracks. The room was prettily decorated + with the racing jackets and caps of the riders in the races, + and with scarlet wreaths of geranium and hibiscus mingled with + lycopodium ferns and selaginella. We did not remain very late + at the ball, as we had to make an early start next morning; but + the drive home in the moonlight was almost as pleasant as any + part of the entertainment.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, April 4th</i>.—We were called at four + o'clock, and breakfasted at five, everybody appearing either in + dressing-gowns or in habits to see us set off. They all tried + to persuade us to stay for the meet of the hounds at the house + to-day. Another ball to-night, and more races, and another ball + to-morrow; but we are homeward bound, and must hurry on. It was + a lovely morning, and we waited with great patience at the + post-house for at least an <span class="pagenum">Page + 437<a name="Page_437" + id="Page_437"></a></span>hour and a half, and watched the + hounds come out, meet, find, and hunt a hare up and down, + and across the valley, with merry ringing notes that made us + long to be on horseback.</p> + + <p>We saw all the racehorses returning from their morning + gallop, and were enlightened by the syces as to their names and + respective owners. There were several people, a great deal of + luggage, and, though last not least, Her Majesty's mails, all + waiting, like us, for the coach. About a quarter to seven a + message arrived, to the effect that the horses would <i>not</i> + come up the hill, they had been jibbing for more than an hour, + so would we kindly go down to the coach. A swarm of coolies + immediately appeared from some mysterious hiding-place, and + conveyed us all, bag and baggage, down the hill, and packed us + into the coach. Even this concession on our part did not induce + the horses to make up their minds to move for at least another + quarter of an hour. Then we had to stop at the hotel to pick up + somebody else; but at last we had fairly started, eleven people + in all, some inside and some perched on a box behind. The + horses were worse than ever, tired to death, poor things; and + as one lady passenger was very nervous and insisted on walking + up all the acclivities, we were obliged to make up our pace + down the hills. The Pass looked lovely by daylight, and the + wild flowers were splendid, especially the white datura and + scarlet rhododendron trees, which were literally covered with + bloom.</p> + + <p>By daylight, the appearance of the horses was really + pitiable in the extreme—worn-out, half-starved wretches, + covered with wounds and sores from collars and harness, and + with traces of injuries they inflict on themselves in their + struggles to get free. When once we had seen their shoulders, + we no longer wondered at their reluctance to start; it really + made one quite sick to think even of the state they were + in.<span class="pagenum">Page 438<a name="Page_438" + id="Page_438"></a></span></p> + + <p>If some of the permanent officials were to devote a portion + of their time to endeavours to introduce American coaches, and + to ameliorate the condition of the horses on this road, they + would indeed confer a boon on their countrymen. The coachman, + who was as black as jet, and who wore very little clothing, was + a curious specimen of his class, and appeared by no means + skilled in his craft. He drove the whole way down the steep + zigzag road with a loose rein; at every turn the horses went + close to the precipice, but were turned in the very nick of + time by a little black boy who jumped down from behind and + pulled them round by their traces without touching the bridle. + We stopped at Rangbodde to breakfast, and again at Pusillawa. + This seemed a bad arrangement, for we were already late; it + resulted in the poor horses having to be unmercifully flogged + in order to enable us to catch the train at Gampola, failing + which, the coach proprietors would have had to pay a very heavy + penalty.</p> + + <p>From Gampola we soon arrived at Peradeniya, where we met Mr. + Freer, who was going down to Colombo. Tom had decided + previously to go straight on, so as to have the yacht quite + ready for an early start to-morrow. I in the meantime went to + our former hosts for one night to pick up Mabelle and the waifs + and strays of luggage.</p> + + <p>On my way from the station to the house, going over the + Satinwood Bridge, from which there is a lovely view of the + Peacock Mountain, I saw an Englishman whom we had observed + before, washing stones in the bed of the river for gems. He has + obtained some rubies and sapphires, though only of small size, + and I suppose he will go on washing for ever, hoping to find + something larger and more valuable. On one part of the coast of + the island near Managgan the sands on the side of one of the + rivers are formed of rubies, sapphires, garnets, and other + precious stones washed down by the current, but they are all + ground to pieces in the process, not one being left as big + <span class="pagenum">Page 439<a name="Page_439" + id="Page_439"></a></span>as a pin's head. The effect in the + sunlight, when this sand is wet with the waves, is something + dazzling, and proves that the accounts of my favourite + Sindbad are not so fabulous as we prosaic mortals try to + make out. The island must be rich in gems, for they seem to + be picked up with hardly any trouble. At Neuera-ellia it is + a favourite amusement for picnic parties to go out + gem-hunting, and frequently they meet with very large and + valuable stones by the riverside or near deserted pits, + large garnets, cinnamon-stone, splendid cat's-eyes, + amethysts, matura diamonds, moonstone, aquamarine, + tourmaline rubies, and sapphires.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_454" + id="Illus_454"></a> <img src="images/t_454.jpg" + width="232" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Peacock Mountain, Ceylon" + title="Illustration: Peacock Mountain, Ceylon" /><br /> + <b>Peacock Mountain, Ceylon</b><br /> + <a href="images/454.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 440<a name="Page_440" + id="Page_440"></a></span></p> + + <p>On my arrival at the house I found that Mabelle had just + returned with some friends, who had kindly taken charge of her + during our absence, and that a very old friend had arrived + almost directly we left on Monday, and had departed early this + morning to climb Adam's Peak, the ascent of which is a long and + tedious affair, but it cannot be difficult, as thousands of + aged and infirm pilgrims go every year to worship at the + Buddhist or Mohammedan temples at the summit. The giant + footprint has been reverenced alike by both religions from the + earliest ages. Its existence is differently accounted for, + however, by the two sects. The Buddhists say it is the + footprint of Buddha, and that an account of its origin was + written 300 or 400 years B.C. The Mohammedans say that it is + the first step Adam took when driven out of Paradise. They do + not quarrel about it, however, but live very happily close + beside one another in their respective temples on the very + small summit of the mountain. The iron chains, still used by + the pilgrims and visitors to assist them up the last weary + flight of steps, are said to have been placed there in the time + of Alexander the Great, and are mentioned by successive + historians.</p> + + <p>After lunch I went to rest, thoroughly tired out with the + hard work of the last two days, whilst the gentlemen went into + Kandy, to see Buddha's tooth and a Brahmin temple.</p> + + <p>Just before sunset we went to have a last look at those + lovely Botanical Gardens. They were more beautiful than ever in + the afternoon light, and I saw many things which had escaped my + notice before. I have made acquaintance with the taste of all + sorts of new fruits while here, more than in our former + journey; but this is to be explained by the proximity of the + Botanical Gardens. I expected to revel in fruit all through the + tropics, but, except at Tahiti, we have not done so at all. + There is one great merit in tropical fruit, which is, that + however hot the sun may be, when plucked from the tree it is + always icy cold; if left for <span class="pagenum">Page + 441<a name="Page_441" + id="Page_441"></a></span>a few minutes, however, it becomes + as hot as the surrounding atmosphere, and the charm is + gone.</p> + + <p>On my return, when I went to dress for dinner, I found on my + table a nasty-looking black beast about six inches long. It + looked very formidable in the half-light, like a scorpion or + centipede. It turned out, however, to be quite harmless, and a + sort of millipede, and rather handsome, with jet-black rings, + and hundreds of orange-coloured legs. There are a great many + venomous snakes in Ceylon, but they always get out of the way + as fast as they can, and never bite Europeans. All the roofs of + the thatched bungalows swarm with rats, and in every house is + kept a rat-snake, which kills and eats these rats. I more than + once heard a great scuffle going on over my bedroom, which + generally ended in a little squeak, indicating that the snake + had killed, and was about to eat, his prey. One of the snakes + came out one day in front of my window, and hung down two or + three feet from the roof. If I had not been previously assured + that he was perfectly harmless, it would have been rather an + alarming apparition in the dark, and, even as it was, I must + confess that for a moment I did feel rather frightened as I + watched him spying about, darting his forked tongue in and out, + and looking quite ready for a spring at my face.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, April 5th</i>.—Another early start by the + seven o'clock train to Colombo. We were very sorry to say + good-bye to our kind host, and when we took our departure, we + were quite laden with flowers, good wishes, and messages for + mutual friends in England. It was rather a hot journey down, + and the train seemed full, but the scenery was lovely. As we + approached Colombo the heat became greater, and in the town + itself it was almost insupportable.</p> + + <p>We breakfasted at the hotel in the fort, where we were + joined by Tom. There is one very curious thing about the hotels + here. The sitting-rooms are all two stories high, with pointed + raftered roofs. The bedrooms are only + <span class="pagenum">Page 442<a name="Page_442" + id="Page_442"></a></span>screened off from each other, and + from the central room, by partitions eight or ten feet high, + so that you can hear everything going on from end to end of + the building. I am not at all sure that the larger amount of + ventilation secured by this plan compensates for the extra + amount of noise and want of privacy, especially when, as was + the case to-day, there is a crying baby who refuses to be + pacified in one of the rooms, a poor little girl ill with + whooping cough in another, and some very noisy people, who + are making themselves both unhappy and cross over some lost + keys, in a third.</p> + + <p>While we were at breakfast the crows were most amusing and + impertinent. Every door and window was open, and they were + perched on the top of the punkah, or on the iron crossbars + supporting the roof, watching their opportunity to pounce down + and carry off the bits left on our plates. They did not seem to + mind the waiters a bit, and, with their heads cocked on one + side, looked as droll and saucy as possible. People tell you + all sorts of funny stories about them; but though they are very + entertaining to watch, and apparently perfectly tame, it + appears to be impossible to capture one alive.</p> + + <p>By the time breakfast was over, we found that the 'Sunbeam' + was already under way, and steaming about the anchorage; so it + was not long before we were once more on board. Going out of + harbour we passed a large steamer whose passengers and crew + cheered us and waved their handkerchiefs until we were out of + sight, and with that pleasant homely sound ringing in our ears + we bade a last farewell to Colombo, and started on another + stage of our homeward voyage. The heat was intense, and there + was a roll outside which at once made me feel very + uncomfortable. There was no wind all the afternoon, and the sun + sank into the sea, glorious and golden, as we took our last + look at the lovely island of Ceylon, the land of spice and + fragrance and beauty.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 443<a name="Page_443" + id="Page_443"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XXVI" + id="CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">TO ADEN.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>Heaven speed the canvas, gallantly + unfurled</i><br /></span> <span><i>To furnish and + accommodate a world</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>To give + the Pole the produce of the sun</i>,<br /></span> + <span><i>And knit the unsocial climates into + one</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Friday, April 6th</i>.—Our visit to Ceylon has been + so delightful that I wish it could have been prolonged for a + month, instead of lasting only a week; but in that case I + should have preferred to select a cooler season of the year, + when travelling is more practicable. A most interesting journey + could be made through the centre of the island to see the + ancient cities, temples, and tanks, over the road from Matelle + to Nalandi Senadoora, to the curious rock temple at Dambool, + near which is the fortified rock of Sigiri, and a few miles + further are the vast ruins of Topari, or Ponamira, the + mediæval capital of Ceylon. It is full of wonderful + ruins, some of them among the oldest in the world. The Ranhol + Dagoba, the Jayti Wana Rama, and the Galle Wihara and rock + temple, carved out of the living rock, are alone worth a long + journey to see. Then think of visiting Anajapoora, the city of + rubies, the sacred capital of the kingdom of ruins, on whose + splendours even the Chinese travellers of the early ages used + to expatiate with fervour. From this point it would be easy to + reach the peninsula of Jaffna, which has been peopled with + Tammils for more than two thousand years. It is the country + <i>par excellence</i> of gardens exquisitely kept, and + skilfully irrigated on the <span class="pagenum">Page + 444<a name="Page_444" + id="Page_444"></a></span>old Moorish system. Here are grown + all the ingredients for the making of curry, which are sent + to all parts of this island and to Southern India. The most + important crop of all, however, is tobacco, whose excellence + is famed throughout India, and of which the Rajah of + Travancore holds the monopoly.</p> + + <p>Then one might go southward from Jaffna, past Aripo, and the + Gulf of Calpentyn, until the curious reef of Adam's Bridge was + reached, which almost connects Ceylon with India. People say it + has been separated by some convulsion of nature in former days, + and that the passage is gradually deepening; but recent + examinations have shown that instead of being a remnant of the + original rock by which Ceylon is supposed to have been once + connected with the Indian continent, it is in reality a + comparatively recent ridge of conglomerate and ironstone, + covered with alluvial deposits carried by the current and + heaped up at this particular point; whilst the gradual rising + of the coast has contributed to give the reef its present + altitude.</p> + + <p>Balchus tells a most improbable story of fifteen Portuguese + frigates escaping through the passage of Panupam, when pursued + by some Dutch cruisers in 1557. Formerly the Straits were only + thirty-five yards wide, with a maximum depth of six feet of + water, but lately they have been widened and deepened by ten + feet, and a little Government steamer frequently passes through + on a tour round the island. At present a sailing ship going + from Bombay to Madras has to make a curve of five thousand + miles in order to weather the Maldives and Ceylon. It seems a + long course for any vessel drawing over ten feet of water to be + obliged to take.</p> + + <p>In the centre of the channel there is a little island where + a Dutch establishment for horse-breeding formerly stood, the + original stud having been imported from Arabia. The horses were + all turned into corrals and caught by means of lassos, and then + conquered by domidores, exactly as they are at the + <span class="pagenum">Page 445<a name="Page_445" + id="Page_445"></a></span>present day in South America. Now + the stud is dispersed, the buildings are in ruins, and all + that remains is the Indian pagoda, where religious + ceremonies, curious processions, and dances of nautch-girls + occasionally take place and are attended by great crowds. To + the southward again of Adam's Bridge is the celebrated Gulf + of Manaar, from which the best pearls come.</p> + + <p>This is an exceptionally good year for pearls, and the price + of the shells went up many rupees per thousand in the first + week. The pearl fishery can be reached in about eight hours by + steam from Colombo, and it would have been delightful to have + visited it, had time permitted. We were shown an oyster with + some beautiful pearls in it, all found in the one shell. When a + boat with pearls reaches the shore, the shells are divided into + equal heaps, one-fourth going to the boat's crew, and + three-fourths to the Government Inspector. They keep whichever + heap he chooses to kick; so that, being uncertain which they + will get for themselves, the boat's crew are sure to make a + fair division. These heaps are then divided and sold by auction + in thousands, and then subdivided again and again. Of course it + is always a matter of speculation as to whether you get good + pearls, bad pearls, or no pearls at all, though this last + misfortune seldom happens.</p> + + <p>The love of gambling is inherent in every Oriental mind, and + the merest beggar with but a few pice in his wallet to buy his + daily food will invest them in a small number of oyster-shells, + hoping to find a pearl of great value; and, should he fail to + do so, he contents himself with eating the oyster and hoping + for better luck next time. The shells are generally left on the + sand in carefully guarded heaps till they die and open, when + the pearls are extracted, and the fish left to decay. Some of + the oysters are taken in sealed-up sacks to Colombo, Kandy, and + other inland places, in order to enable people to indulge their + love of gambling and speculation, without the trouble of a + journey <span class="pagenum">Page 446<a name="Page_446" + id="Page_446"></a></span>to Manaar. Though called oysters, + they are not the proper oyster, but a sort of avicula + (<i>Meleagrina margaritifera</i> being the name given by + Samarik), very different from the large mother-of-pearl + shells in which the South Sea pearls are found.</p> + + <p>I have not been able to keep my mind from running + incessantly on Sir Emerson Tennent's delightful book on Ceylon, + which describes places we have not ourselves visited, but which + I wanted very much to see, and I have been so interested + reading about them that I cannot help thinking other people + will share my feelings. It seems wonderful that so much which + is strange, beautiful, and interesting should be so easy of + access from England, and yet that so few English travellers + know comparatively anything of Ceylon, except Galle and + Colombo, and perhaps Kandy and Trincomalee.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, April 7th</i>.—To-day we passed close to + the island of Minnikoy, between the groups of islands called + the Laccadives and Maldives, some of which we saw dotting the + horizon; and still further to the south stretches the Chagos + Archipelago. It was very hot all day, with hardly a breath of + air, and we have all returned to our former light and airy + costumes: the gentlemen to their shirts and trousers, the + children to their pinafores and nothing else, and I to my + beloved Tahitian dresses.</p> + + <p>Before we left England we could not make ourselves believe + what we were told about heat in the tropics; so we started with + very few windsails and without any punkahs or double awnings. + It was all very well in the Atlantic or Pacific, but between + Hongkong and Singapore the state of things became simply + unbearable. The carpenter has rigged up a punkah, and the men + have improvised some double awnings. At Colombo they made some + windsails, so we are now better off than on our last hot + voyage. It has been really hotter than ever to-day, but a + pleasant breeze sprang up in the afternoon. + <span class="pagenum">Page 447<a name="Page_447" + id="Page_447"></a></span></p> + + <p><i>Sunday, April 8th</i>.—A delightful fresh morning + after a cool night. Everybody looks quite different, and we + begin to hope we shall carry the north-east monsoon right + across, which would be an exceptional piece of good fortune. We + had service in the saloon at eleven o'clock and at four, and + though there was an unusually full attendance it was cool and + pleasant even without the punkah. The thermometer registers + nearly the same as it did on Friday, when we were all dead with + the heat. The apparently nice cool breeze that refreshes our + heated bodies does not produce any corresponding effect on the + glassy surface of the ocean; for we find to-day, as on previous + occasions, that the temperature, both of the water and of the + air, registered by the thermometer, does not by any means + correspond with the effect on the human frame.</p> + + <p>The two Chinese servants we shipped at Hongkong are a great + success, as every one on board agrees. Even the old sailing + master is obliged to confess that the two 'heathen Chinee' keep + the mess rooms, ships' officers' and servants' berths much + cleaner and more comfortable than his own sailors ever + succeeded in doing. At Galle we shipped three black firemen, + two from Bombay and one from Mozambique, a regular nigger, with + his black woolly hair clipped into the shape of Prince of Wales + feathers. Their names are Mahomet, Abraham, and Tom Dollar. + They live in a little tent we have had pitched for them on + deck, cook their own food, and do their work in the engine-room + exceedingly well. In the intervals they are highly amused with + the children's picture books. The picture of the durbar at + Delhi delighted them, especially as they recognised the + figures, and learned a little English through them. They can + say a few words already, and have told me all about their wives + and children at Mozambique and Bombay, and have shown me the + presents they are taking home to them. They have been nearly a + year on board the P. and O. steamship 'Poonah,' and appear to + <span class="pagenum">Page 448<a name="Page_448" + id="Page_448"></a></span>have saved nearly all their + earnings. I do not suppose our own men could have stood the + fearful heat below in the engine-room for many days + together, so it was fortunate we met with these amiable + salamanders.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, April, 9th</i>.—No wind. We passed through + a large shoal of porpoises, and at dusk we saw the light of a + distant ship. At all the places we have recently visited we + have found excellent ice-making machines, and have been able to + get a sufficient supply to last us from port to port, which has + been a great comfort. The machine at Colombo unfortunately + broke down the day before we left, so that in the very hottest + part of our voyage we have had to do without our accustomed + luxury; and very much we miss it, not only for cooling our + drinks, but for keeping provisions, &c. As it is, a sheep + killed overnight is not good for dinner next day; butter is + just like oil, and to-day in opening a drawer my fingers + touched a sticky mess; I looked and discovered six sticks of + sealing wax running slowly about in a state resembling + treacle.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, April 11th</i>.—Hotter than ever. We + could see a steamer in the far distance. About sunset we passed + through a shoal of flying-fish; the night was intensely hot, + and everybody slept on deck.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, April 13th</i>.—At 6 a.m. we made the + island of Sokotra, and about seven o'clock saw 'The Brothers,' + two islands where large quantities of turtle and ambergris are + found. Though generally uninhabited, they are sometimes visited + by the natives for the purpose of collecting articles of + commerce.</p> + + <p>One of our large pigs took it into his head to jump + overboard to-day. The helm was put round as quickly as + possible, but the most anxious spying could not discover any + trace of poor piggy's whereabouts; so we proceeded on our + original course for a few minutes, when suddenly, to our great + astonishment, we saw him alongside, having been nearly run + down, but still gallantly swimming along. The dingy + <span class="pagenum">Page 449<a name="Page_449" + id="Page_449"></a></span>was lowered and two men sent in + pursuit. They had, however, no easy task before them, for as + soon as they approached, piggy swam away faster than they + could row, and bit and fought most furiously when they tried + to get him into the boat. It was a good half-hour's work + before he was secured, yet when he arrived he did not appear + to be in the least exhausted by his long swim, but bit and + barked at everybody so furiously that he was condemned to + death, to prevent the possibility of further accidents. It + is quite clear from the foregoing incident that some pigs + can swim, and swim very well too, without cutting their own + throats in the process.</p> + + <p>All the afternoon a large steamer had been gradually gaining + on us. We exchanged signals and made out that she was the + 'Calypso' (?) of Glasgow. About half-past five she altered her + course and came alongside to speak us. The fore-deck was + crowded with the crew. On the bridge were many of the officers; + and sitting bolt upright on a stool, 'looking out forward' in + the most amusing manner, was the captain's little Skye terrier. + The stern was crowded with passengers, of every shade of + colour. To our surprise a voice from among them shouted out + 'Three cheers for Mr. Brassey!' which was responded to by + ringing shouts from all on board, and taken up again by some of + our own men. It was a very pleasant and unexpected greeting to + hear in the middle of the Indian Ocean. The ship soon drew + ahead again, but handkerchiefs and caps were waved till their + owners faded away into the distance. Meeting and passing + thousands of people as you at home do daily, you can hardly + understand the excitement a little incident like this causes on + board ship, where even a distant sail in these lonely oceans + makes everybody leave his occupation and crowd to look at her. + Soon after sunset we saw the island of Abd-al-Kuri, with its + fantastic peaks, melting into orange, gold, and purple tints, + beneath the gorgeous Arabian afterglow. + <span class="pagenum">Page 450<a name="Page_450" + id="Page_450"></a></span></p> + + <p><i>Saturday, April 14th</i>.—We made Cape Rasalhir, + formerly called Guardafui, about nine o'clock yesterday + evening, and passing it during the night entered the Gulf of + Aden<a name="FNanchor_21_21" + id="FNanchor_21_21">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_21_21" + class="fnanchor">[21]</a> All to-day we have been going + along the Soumali coast. There is a good deal of trade + carried on in native boats. Passing all these strange and + comparatively unknown and little-visited islands and coasts, + from which all sorts of things in daily use at home are + brought, one dimly realises what commerce means and how + necessary one part of the world is to the other.</p> + + <div class="footnote"> + <p><a name="Footnote_21_21" + id="Footnote_21_21"></a> + <a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> + We found considerable difficulty in making the light, + and since our return there have been several wrecks, and + many lives lost, on this dangerous point.</p> + </div> + + <p><i>Sunday, April 15th</i>.—Still intensely hot. The + usual services were held on deck at eleven and four o'clock. + The land, both in Arabia and in Africa, could be seen the whole + day, with precipitous mountains. In the afternoon we could make + out the rock of Aden, and at sunset it stood grandly forth, + looming in purple darkness against the crimson and blood-red + sky, which gradually faded to tenderest tints of yellow and + green, before it finally blazed forth into a radiant afterglow. + At half-past eight a gun from the fort at Aden summoned us to + show our colours, or rather lights. At nine o'clock we dropped + our anchor in the roads; a boat came off with a bag of + newspapers and to ask for orders in the morning. It was sent by + the great Parsee merchants here, who undertake to supply us + with coals, provisions, water, and everything we want, and + spare us all trouble. For the last three or four days we have + had a nice little breeze astern, and if we had not been in a + hurry to cross the Indian Ocean before the south-west monsoon + set in, we should certainly have been contented with four or + five knots an hour under sail instead of eight and a half under + steam. We have averaged over 200 miles a day under steam alone, + ever since we left Penang, and have burnt only four tons of + coal for every fifty miles.<span class="pagenum">Page + 451<a name="Page_451" + id="Page_451"></a></span></p> + + <p><i>Monday, April 16th</i>.—At 1.30 a.m. I heard the + signal gun fired, and shortly afterwards a great splash of + boats and oars, and a vast chattering and shouting of tongues + announced the arrival of a P. and O. steamer. She dropped her + anchor just outside us, so we had the benefit of the noise all + night. I got up at daylight and found the pilot just coming + off. He took us to a buoy, a little closer in, and soon the + business of coaling and watering commenced.</p> + + <div class="figright"> + <a name="Illus_466" + id="Illus_466"></a> <img src="images/t_466.gif" + width="150" + height="360" + alt="Illustration: Soumali Indian, Aden" + title="Illustration: Soumali Indian, Aden" /><br /> + <b>Soumali Indian, Aden</b><br /> + <a href="images/466.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>We reached the shore about 7.30, and, landing at the pier, + had our first near view of the natives, who are most + curious-looking creatures. They have very black complexions, + and long woolly hair, setting out like a mop all round, and + generally dyed bright red, or yellow by the application of + lime. Mr. Cowajee had sent his own private carriage to meet us. + It was a comfortable open barouche, with a pair of nice horses, + and two servants in Eastern liveries, green vests and full + trousers, and red and orange turbans. We went first to his + store, which seemed to be an emporium for every conceivable + article. There was carved sandal-wood, and embroidered shawls + from China, Surat, and Gujerat, work from India, English + medicines, French lamps, Swiss clocks, German toys, Russian + caviare, Greek lace, Havannah cigars, American hides and canned + fruits, besides many other things. The feathers did not look + very tempting; there was a great deal of feather and very + little stem about most of them, and only a few were white, the + majority being a pretty sort of brown and drab. But this + general store is <span class="pagenum">Page + 452<a name="Page_452" + id="Page_452"></a></span>only a very small part of their + business, for about 60,000 tons of coal pass through their + hands every year.</p> + + <p>We went on to the Hôtel de l'Europe, which was by no + means in first-rate order, but allowances must be made for a + new house. A delightful breeze was blowing in through the open + windows, and although the thermometer registered 85° in the + dining-room, it did not seem at all hot. The view over the bay + is very pretty, and the scene on shore thoroughly Arabian, with + the donkeys and camels patiently carrying their heavy loads, + guided by the true Bedaween of the desert, and people of all + tinges of complexion, from jet black to pale copper colour. A + pair of tame ostriches, at least seven feet high, were + strolling about the roadway, and a gazelle, some monkeys, + parrots, and birds lived happily together beneath a broad + verandah. After a little while we went for a drive to see the + camp and town of Aden, which is four or five miles from the + Point where everybody lands. On the way we met trains of + heavily laden camels bringing in wood, water, grain, and + fodder, for garrison consumption, and coffee and spices for + exportation. After driving for about four miles we reached a + gallery pierced through the rock, which admits you into the + precincts of the fort. The entrance is very narrow, the sides + precipitous, and the place apparently impregnable. We went all + through the town, or rather towns, past the Arab village, the + Sepoy barracks, and the European barracks, to the water tanks, + stupendous works carved out of the solid rock, but until lately + comparatively neglected, the residents depending entirely on + distillation for their supply of water. There is a pretty + little garden at the foot of the lowest tank, but the heat was + intense in the bottom of the deep valley amongst the rocks, + where every sun-ray seemed to be collected and reflected from + the white glaring limestone, and every breath of air to be + excluded. We saw a little more of the town and the market + crowded with camels, the shops full of lion, leopard, and + hyæna skins. We went to the officers' mess-house, visited + the <span class="pagenum">Page 453<a name="Page_453" + id="Page_453"></a></span>Protestant and Roman Catholic + churches and the Mohammedan mosque, and then passing through + two long tunnels, bored and blasted in the solid rock, we + looked over the fortifications. Finally, we returned to the + Point again by way of the Isthmus, and went to Government + House, which gets a fresh breeze from every quarter. They + say that to-day is hotter than usual, but it is never really + very oppressive here unless there is an exceptionally hot + wind blowing from the desert, but even that is partially + cooled before it arrives. To us it appears delightful after + our sultry voyage and the heat at Penang and Singapore.</p> + + <p>We are all agreeably disappointed with Aden, and find that + it is by no means the oven we expected; it is prettier too than + I thought, the mountains and rocks are so peaked and pointed, + and although the general effect is one of barrenness, still, if + you look closely, every crack and crevice is full of something + green. The soil, being of volcanic origin, is readily + fertilised by moisture, and at once produces some kind of + vegetation. This adds of course greatly to the effect of + colour, which in the rocks themselves is extremely beautiful, + especially at sunrise and sunset. The sea, too, is delightfully + blue on one side of the peninsula, and pale green on the other, + according to the wind, and the white surf curls and breaks on + the sandy shore beyond the crisp waves.</p> + + <p>We went back to the hotel a little before one, and found + many friends had called during our absence. After + superintending the children's dinner, I went with Tom to + luncheon at Government House. It was very pleasant; General and + Mrs. Schneider were more than kind, and the house felt + deliciously cool and airy.</p> + + <p>We are told that thirty miles inland the country is + sometimes very beautiful. There are exquisitely green valleys, + with a stream running through them, amongst peaks, and rocky + mountains, which one rarely sees in the + <span class="pagenum">Page 454<a name="Page_454" + id="Page_454"></a></span>desert. Here the natives cultivate + their crops of corn—such corn as it is too, reaching + six feet above a man's head! All sorts of useful vegetables + grow abundantly, besides roses, fruits, and fragrant + flowers, large supplies of which are brought daily into + Aden. About ten miles from the town there are acres of the + most fertile garden ground, which is cultivated to supply + the garrison with vegetables. Sometimes a party of seventy + or eighty men, and ten or twenty Arab guides, goes out for + three weeks or a month at a time surveying. The natives are + much more friendly than they used to be a few years ago, + when people were afraid even to ride outside the town. Now + pleasant excursions lasting a few days may be made, + especially as there is very fair shooting to be got. After + luncheon I was shown some lovely feathers. The contrast + between these and the steamer-feathers is ludicrous; the + price, too, is proportionately cheaper, for the feathers are + infinitely better. Long, white, full, and curly feathers can + be bought for much less than you give for them in England. + We drove down to the town, finished our business + transactions, and then went in the 'Vestal's' steam launch + on board the 'Gamma,' one of the new Chinese gunboats on her + way out to China.</p> + + <p>After afternoon tea we all adjourned to the 'Sunbeam,' where + we found many other friends already arrived or arriving. We had + only just time to look round before the sun set, and the short + twilight was succeeded by the swift tropical darkness. All too + soon good-bye had to be said; the anchor was raised, and we + were actually drifting slowly along under our head canvas + before our friends took their departure. It was a lovely + evening, with a light fair breeze, and although there appeared + hardly any wind, it was wonderful how swiftly we crept out of + the harbour, and, as sail after sail was spread, how rapidly we + glided past the land.</p> + + <p>Our visit to Aden has been short but very agreeable; it is + not by any means such a dreadful place as we had + <span class="pagenum">Page 455<a name="Page_455" + id="Page_455"></a></span>always fancied. Most of the people + we have seen to-day seem rather to like it; there is good + boating, excellent sea fishing, moderate shooting, and many + rides and excursions. A vehicle of some sort is an absolute + necessity, however, if you want to see anything of your + friends, for the three divisions of the settlement are at + least four miles apart, and the heat is far too great for + driving or riding in the middle of the day, except on + business. I cannot say, however, that we ourselves found it + intolerably hot to-day.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 456<a name="Page_456" + id="Page_456"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII" + id="CHAPTER_XXVII">CHAPTER XXVII.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">TO SUEZ.</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span class="i22"><i>Round the decay</i><br /></span> + <span><i>Of that colossal wreck; boundless and + bare</i><br /></span> <span><i>The lone and level sands + stretch far away</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Tuesday, April 17th</i>.—The breeze still continued + and freshened, and we sailed along pleasantly before it, + finding it a great relief to be rid of the thud and beat of the + engine. There is no vibration, but the noise is unpleasant. + About eleven o'clock we passed the island of Perim, a most + desolate-looking place. I do not wonder that officers so much + dislike being quartered there. It is an important position + though, and is shortly to be strengthened, when water-tanks + will be built, and attempts made to cultivate the soil. At + present there does not appear to be a blade of vegetation, and + on the side we passed, between the island and the coast of + Arabia, nothing is to be seen but the little white lighthouse + and the path leading up to it. On the southern side there is a + very fair harbour and a moderate town. On the shore all round + the island turtles are caught at the season when they land to + deposit their eggs. To pass the island of Perim we sailed + through the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, or 'Gate of Tears,' thus + called on account of the numerous wrecks which took place there + in former years. Once through the straits, we were fairly in + the Red Sea. The colour of the Red Sea is certainly the bluest + of ultramarines. In the afternoon the town of Mocha Yamen, + celebrated alike for its breed of Arab horses and its + <span class="pagenum">Page 457<a name="Page_457" + id="Page_457"></a></span>coffee, was visible from the + masthead. It is a large white town, full of cupolas and + minarets, surrounded with green as far as irrigation + extends, and looking like a pearl set in emeralds on the + margin of the deep blue sea against a background of red and + yellow sand-mountains. Later in the afternoon we passed + Great and Little Hamish, where the P. and O. boat, 'Alma,' + was wrecked some fifteen years ago, and during the night + sailed by Jebel Zibayar and Tukar.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_472" + id="Illus_472"></a> <img src="images/t_472.jpg" + width="240" + height="152" + alt="Illustration: Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb" + title="Illustration: Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb" /><br /> + <b>Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb</b><br /> + <a href="images/472.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Wednesday, April 18th</i>.—In the morning, at + daylight, we were off Jebel Teir, Mussawa Island, Annesley Bay + lying 60 miles to the west. Our position was about 60 miles to + the south-west of Mussawa Zoulia, where the expedition under + Lord Napier of Magdala landed in 1867. At noon we had sailed + 221 miles, a most unexpected run in the Red Sea. In the + afternoon it fell calm, but the wind freshened again, and we + went on sailing until after midnight.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, April 19th</i>.—We commenced steaming at + 1 a.m., stopped, however, at 5 a.m., and sailed all day. + Yesterday we were surrounded by some beautiful blue birds, who + hovered about us and settled at intervals on the + <span class="pagenum">Page 458<a name="Page_458" + id="Page_458"></a></span>masts and yards. During the night + two were caught napping by the men, and in the course of + to-day two more, hotly pursued by a hawk, took refuge on + board and were also captured. One was given to me. It + appears to be a very beautiful kind of jay, with feathers of + the most brilliant shades of blue. The men have killed their + birds for the sake of the skins, but I mean to try and keep + mine alive. At Colombo several birds and two curiously + starred tortoises were added to our collection; and we took + on board at Aden a gazelle, a black cockatoo, and a green + monkey.</p> + + <p>We passed Souakim to-day, the port of Nubia. It is about 275 + miles, or 25 days' camel-journey, from thence to Berber on the + Nile. The road passes through Korib, and among fine red granite + and black basalt mountains, 4,000 feet high. We left one of the + firemen, Tom Dollar, behind at Aden by mistake, and only found + out yesterday that we had done so. It appears that he has a + brother living there, whom he was most anxious to go and see + directly the anchor was let go, in the morning. Unfortunately, + he did not speak to us on the subject. He had never been in + anything but a regular steamer before, and could not believe it + possible that the 'Sunbeam' could spread her wings and be off + without any preliminary 'fire-worshipping,' I am very sorry for + the poor man, as he has left all his clothes and the wages he + had earned on board the P. and O. steamer behind him. We must + send them back from Suez, and telegraph to some one to look out + for him. The heat is intense, and we all sleep on deck at + night; the sunrises and sunsets are magnificent.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, April 20th</i>.—A little hotter still; + there is no wind at all, and we are obliged to steam. In the + morning we passed to the southward of Jeddo, the port of Mecca. + Unfortunately it was so hazy that we could not distinguish + anything whatever of the town or country, only a line of + mountains rearing their heads above the clouds. We had + <span class="pagenum">Page 459<a name="Page_459" + id="Page_459"></a></span>hoped to be at Suez early on + Sunday, but now I fear we shall not arrive until Monday.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, April 21st</i>.—Hotter and still hotter + every day, says the thermometer, and so we say also. Everybody + told us these would be our two hottest days, and certainly the + prediction has been verified. We did not see a single ship all + day, but in the afternoon passed Zambo, the port of Medina. A + little before midnight we made the light on the Dædalus + shoal on the starboard bow.</p> + + <p>This being Muriel's fifth birthday, Mabelle and the doctor + and the men have been arranging a surprise for her all day, and + none of us were allowed to go on the port side of the deck, but + after dinner we were taken to a hastily fitted-up theatre, very + prettily decorated with flags and Japanese lanterns. On a + throne covered with the Union Jack, Muriel was seated, the two + pugs being on footstools on either side of her to represent + lions <i>couchant</i>. Some of the men had blackened their + faces, and gave us a really very excellent Christy Minstrel + entertainment, in which undreamed-of talent came to light. It + is very odd and interesting how one is perpetually finding out + something new about the men. Some of the crew we thought the + most unpromising when we started, have turned out among our + best men, always ready and willing for everything, while + others, who at first appeared the best, have not proved so + good. Many we knew well beforehand. On the whole, however, we + have very little cause to complain of our crew; all pull well + together when they are kept up to their work and have plenty to + do.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, April 22nd</i>.—Clouds veiled the sunrise + this morning, which was a welcome relief; still it was too hot + for service in the saloon, and it was therefore held on deck. A + light breeze sprang up ahead during its performance, which + cooled and refreshed us immensely. About twelve o'clock we + passed another pair of 'Brothers,' a couple of odd-looking + rocks or islands, like tables, rising straight out of the sea; + <span class="pagenum">Page 460<a name="Page_460" + id="Page_460"></a></span>there is a beacon on the + northernmost one. While we were at lunch, the breeze + freshened so much that we were all glad to add some wraps to + our light and airy costumes. A little later, a summer gale + was blowing ahead, making some of us feel very uncomfortable + and long for the halcyon days of the past, even with the + accompaniment of the inevitable heat. Such is mankind, and + womankind too for that matter, 'never blessed but always to + be blessed.' The gale freshened, the screw was raised, the + yacht pitched and rolled, and we were obliged to put her off + her course and under sail before night fell. The spray came + over the decks, and there was a strong wind dead ahead. We + all felt cold and miserable, though the thermometer still + registered 75°. The poor monkeys and parrots looked most + wretched and unhappy, and had to be packed away as speedily + as possible. Nine monkeys in an empty wine case seemed very + happy and cuddled together for warmth, but the two larger + and more aristocratic members of the party required a box to + themselves. The gazelle had a little tent pitched for him + specially in a sheltered corner, and the birds were all + stowed away and battened over in the smoking fiddle. Dinner + was rather a lame pretence, and it was not long before we + all retired, and certainly no one wished to take his or her + mattress on deck to-night. It is the first night I have + slept in a bed on board the yacht for many weeks, and a very + disturbed night it was, for the waves ran high, and we have + lately been sailing so steadily over smooth seas, that we + did not know what to make of this.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, April 23rd</i>.—The gale blew as hard as + ever, and quite as dead ahead. About noon we made the island of + Shaduan, or isle of Seals, so named by the ancients, when the + sea and gulf abounded with seals. There are still a few + occasionally to be seen to the northward by the fishermen, and + their skins are brought to Suez for sale. We are making tacks + backwards and forwards across the narrow sea, an exciting + amusement for a yachtsman, as <span class="pagenum">Page + 461<a name="Page_461" + id="Page_461"></a></span>it requires constant attention. The + sailing directions say that this sea is ill surveyed, except + in the direct channel. There are many coral reefs and sunken + rocks, and on whichever side you may happen to be wrecked, + the natives are ready to rob, ill-treat, and kill you, or + sell you as slaves in the interior. It was on two projecting + coral reefs from the island of Shaduan, that the 'Carnatic' + was wrecked in 1869. She ran ashore at four o'clock in the + morning of the 13th of September, soon after having made the + light on Rhas Garril. We were at Suez in October of the same + year, and everybody was then full of the sad particulars of + the wreck, the soldiers being especially useful in bringing + in the passengers' luggage, which had been recovered from + the Arabs. One of our firemen, Abraham, was on board the + 'Carnatic' at the time of the disaster, and lost all his + worldly goods (not many, I should think, judging by what he + has brought on board here).</p> + + <p>The sea was very rough and disagreeable all day. To us the + temperature appears quite cool, indeed cold, though the + thermometer still remains at 75°. Our friends at Aden, who + prophesied that I should want my sealskin jacket before leaving + the Gulf of Suez, were not so far wrong in their + prognostications as I imagined at the time.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, April 24th</i>.—We are still beating to + windward against a head gale, and by noon had made sixty-five + miles to the good, right in the wind's eye—not a bad + performance, considering that the gale was blowing with a force + of nine or ten. It has the merit of novelty too, for I suppose + that for years no sailing ships have been seen in the Gulf of + Suez. The winds blow so steadily for months together, that for + six months in the year you cannot get into the Red Sea, and for + the other six months you cannot get out of it.</p> + + <p>We passed the island of Rhas Garril, and soon afterwards a + steamer went by, altering her course a good deal to inspect us. + She evidently thought we were a broken-down + <span class="pagenum">Page 462<a name="Page_462" + id="Page_462"></a></span>steamer, and intended to come to + our rescue. All yesterday and to-day we have been making + flannel coats for the monkey, and covers for birdcages, and + improvising shelters and snug corners for our pets. At night + especially the wind is quite crisp. If this gale continues, + it will be Thursday or Friday before we reach Suez; but it + may possibly change to-night, and it looks now as if it were + breaking.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_477" + id="Illus_477"></a> <img src="images/t_477.jpg" + width="240" + height="145" + alt="Illustration: Beating up the Red Sea" + title="Illustration: Beating up the Red Sea" /><br /> + <b>Beating up the Red Sea</b><br /> + <a href="images/477.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Wednesday, April 25th</i>.—At last the gale + <i>has</i> broken. There was not much wind when I went on deck + at 4 a.m., and by seven o'clock it was so nearly calm, that the + funnel could be raised and fires lighted, and we were soon + steaming straight for our destination. We could not see Mount + Sinai on account of the mist, but made out the place where the + Israelites are said to have crossed the Red Sea, and by four + o'clock the town of Suez lay right ahead. The shores are very + barren, not a blade of grass nor a scrap of vegetation being + visible. Nothing is to be seen save mountain peaks, rocks, + stones, and sand. But even this barren scene has a special + beauty of its own, particularly at sunrise and sunset. The + shapes of mountain and rock are alike striking, the sharp + shadows are lovely, and the contrast of reds, yellows, and + browns, with the bright blue sea and crisp white waves, + <span class="pagenum">Page 463<a name="Page_463" + id="Page_463"></a></span>is very beautiful. Even when the + sun has set, and the rich tints have faded away, the full + moon adds another charm to the landscape.</p> + + <p>This afternoon, as we were steaming up towards Suez, I had a + chat with Mahomet, one of our Indian firemen, who was fringing + a piece of muslin for a turban. I asked him if it was English. + 'No, Missy; no English—Switzerland; English no good; all + gum and sticky stuff; make fingers dirty; all wash out; leave + nothing.' In the South Sea and Sandwich Islands, and in the + Malay Peninsula, the natives make the same complaints as to the + Manchester cottons. At Hongkong some of the large shops had + fifty expensive English ships' compasses on hand; they were all + quite unsaleable owing to the liquid having gone bad, in + consequence of its not having been properly prepared. Some + American compasses of the same quality were in good order and + not in the least affected by the climate. It will be a bad day + when the confidence in England's honesty as a nation throughout + the world, and consequently her well-earned supremacy in + commerce, have passed away. The burden, unfortunately, will not + fall on the heads of the offenders alone, but, as usual, the + innocent will suffer with and for the guilty.</p> + + <p>After four o'clock we came near two steamers lying at + anchor, and were shortly afterwards boarded by the captain of + the port, the health officer, and sundry other functionaries. + After a short delay we dropped anchor, and just as the sun was + setting in 'purple and gold' behind the mountains of Arabia, we + went ashore in the steam launch. We landed at the Canal + Company's Office, in front of which there is a bust of + Lieutenant Waghorn, the inaugurator of the overland route.</p> + + <p>At the office, the 'Sunbeam' was entered on the Company's + books, and arrangements were made with the chief pilot for + to-morrow, while the children amused themselves by riding a + pony up and down, and jumping over the + <span class="pagenum">Page 464<a name="Page_464" + id="Page_464"></a></span>little brooks, and I strolled about + admiring the enormous growth of the vegetation since we were + here last in 1869. We next steamed five miles further on to + the town of Suez, and landed opposite the big hotel, which + is more uncomfortable than ever. The rooms are dirty, and + the cooking execrable.</p> + + <p>There is nothing to see at Suez, but still we went for a + ramble to see that nothing. We cleared our boxes and our + letters, and then went on ankle deep in sand to the one + European house, the railway station, the Arab quarter and the + bazaars, where it is occasionally possible to pick up rather + interesting little curiosities brought by the pilgrims from + Mecca and Medina.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, April 26th</i>.—Such a sunrise as this + morning's you could only see in Arabia or Egypt. There is a + peculiarity about desert colouring at sunrise and sunset that + can never be seen anywhere else. We had sundry visitors during + the early morning, and before ten o'clock we were in the Canal + and steaming on at regulation speed. As the sun rose the heat + became intense, 96° in the shade under double awnings. So + far from there being a cool breeze to temper it, a hot wind + blew from the desert, like the blast from a furnace. I stood on + the bridge as long as I could bear the heat, to look at the + strange desert view, which could be seen to great advantage in + going through at the top of high water. Sand, sand everywhere; + here a train of camels, there a few Arab tents, now a whole + party shifting their place of abode; a group of women washing, + or a drove of buffaloes in a small tributary stream. After + going about eight miles we stopped at a <i>gare</i> (as the + stopping-places are called) to allow three vessels to pass. One + was a fine steamer belonging to the Ducal Line; the others were + a Dutch and a German boat (one, the Friesland, has been since + wrecked off Cape Finisterre, in December 1877). The cleanliness + and general smartness of the former presented a great contrast + to her companions, on which the <span class="pagenum">Page + 465<a name="Page_465" + id="Page_465"></a></span>passengers looked very hot and + uncomfortable. The centre part of each vessel was crowded + with a large number of Dutch or German boys, going out as + soldiers to Acheen, who certainly did not appear to be + enjoying their voyage.</p> + + <p>We passed Chaloux and reached Ismailia just at nine o'clock, + not without considerable effort on the part of the pilot. A + steam launch came off from the shore, and we (children and all) + landed at once; and, after a moonlight donkey ride, dined at + the excellent Hôtel de Paris, kept by an old Frenchman. + <i>Table-d'hôte</i> was over, but they gave us a capital + little dinner by ourselves. The children and I, and some of the + gentlemen, start to-morrow, overland <i>viâ</i> Cairo, to + join the yacht at Alexandria, in order that they may see the + Pyramids. It was a glorious night as we rowed off to the yacht + under the bright beams of the full moon, and the air, too, was + quite fresh and cool—a most refreshing change from the + noontide heat.</p> + + <p>The traffic on the Canal has increased during the last few + years, and especially during the last few months; on an average + four or five ships passed through every day. To-day they took + 6,000<i>l</i>. at the Suez Office alone. They have an excellent + plan of the Canal there, and little models of ships, which are + arranged according to the telegrams constantly received, so + that the chief officers at each end of the Canal know exactly + where every ship is. Instant information is of course sent of + any stoppage or any accident, but these occur comparatively + seldom. Some time ago M. Lesseps bought a small canal partially + stopped up leading from the Nile at Cairo to Ismailia. It has + been widened and deepened, and was opened a few weeks ago with + great ceremony and grand doings. Now any vessel not drawing + more than fourteen feet can go direct from Suez or Port Said to + Cairo. If we had had time, we might have done it in the yacht, + and lain at anchor almost under the shadow of the Pyramids of + Cheops. The special object of the new canal is to make Cairo + and Ismailia Egyptian <span class="pagenum">Page + 466<a name="Page_466" + id="Page_466"></a></span> ports as well as Alexandria, + thereby saving much land carriage and labour of shifting. + Already several ships laden with grain, from Upper Egypt, + have availed themselves of this new means of + communication.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, April 27th</i>.—Another glorious sunrise. + The pilot was on board at 5 a.m., and the Dhebash with fish, + strawberries, and fresh vegetables. This is a beautiful + climate, though there is scarcely any rain; only one very + slight shower has occurred during the last three years at Suez, + but the soil of the desert after the Nile overflow brings forth + tenfold.</p> + + <p>The 'Sunbeam' was to start at eight o'clock, as soon as a + large vessel had passed up from Port Said. There are only + certain places in the Canal where vessels can pass one another, + so one ship is always obliged to wait for another. We landed at + half-past seven. The sun was already blazing with a burning + fury, and we found it very hot riding up to the hotel on + donkeys. We had an excellent breakfast at the same comfortable + hotel, paid a very moderate bill, and left by the eleven + o'clock train for Cairo. We stopped at Zag-à-zig for an + hour for luncheon in a nice cool dark room, and started again + about three o'clock. The change in the face of the country + since we were here eight years ago is something extraordinary. + A vast desert of sand has been transformed into one large oasis + of undulating fields of waving corn, where there used to be + nothing but whirlwinds of sand. All this has been effected by + irrigation. The wealth of Egypt ought greatly to increase. How + the people managed to live before is a mystery. Now every field + is full of labourers reaping and stacking the corn, women + gleaning, and in some places the patient, ugly black buffaloes + ploughing the stubble for fresh crops.</p> + + <p>At half-past six we reached Cairo, and were conveyed in a + large <i>char-à-bancs</i> to what was formerly + Shepherd's Hotel, now partly rebuilt and much altered for the + better. Even in that short drive we could see that the face of + the <span class="pagenum">Page 467<a name="Page_467" + id="Page_467"></a></span>capital of Egypt had altered as + much as the country, though I am not sure that it is so + greatly improved. After a refreshing dip in cool marble + baths and a change of garments, we went down to the large + <i>table-d'hôte</i>. Then we sat in the verandah + looking on the street until we became tired of doing + nothing, after which we started for a stroll in the Ezkebieh + gardens close by. They are beautifully laid out for evening + promenade; but although the flowers are lovely, and the + turf, thanks to constant waterings, is deliciously green, + all the large trees have been cut down. There is no + seclusion, no shade, which seems a pity in a country where + the greatest desire of life is shelter from the noonday + heat. To-night both Arab and French bands were playing + within the enclosure, and it was pleasant enough listening + to Offenbach's music under the beams of the full moonlight. + Few people appeared to appreciate it, however, for the + gardens were nearly empty; but then the season is over, and + every one has fled before the coming heat.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, April 28th</i>.—We had settled to start + at six o'clock this morning to visit the Pyramids, an excursion + which had been for some little time eagerly looked forward to + and talked about by the younger members of our party. The + morning was cold and grey, a strong northerly wind was blowing, + and the change from the weather which had prevailed but a few + hours previously was altogether most striking and unexpected. + We drove rapidly through the streets and the outskirts of the + town, where old houses are being pulled down and new ones + rapidly built up, and where a general air of new bricks and old + rubbish pervades the scene. Then we crossed the Nile by a + handsome iron bridge, and saw the Palace of Gezireh, where the + Prince of Wales and his suite were lodged. We passed the + railway extension works, and, to the great delight of the + children, saw two elephants busily employed, one of which was + being made to lie down to enable his mahout to dismount. Soon + the little ones gave a shout of 'The Pyramids!' and there + <span class="pagenum">Page 468<a name="Page_468" + id="Page_468"></a></span>before us stood those grand + monuments of a nameless founder, which for centuries have + stood out in the sands of the desert, while the burning + African sun and the glorious African moon have risen and set + on their heavenward-pointing summits for countless days and + nights. Even the earth has changed her position so much + since they were erected that the pole star no longer sheds + its light in a direct line through the central passages, as + it did when first they were designed.</p> + + <p>We drove along under avenues of now leafless trees to the + foot of the hill on which the Pyramids are situated. Here + everybody was turned out to walk except Muriel and me, and a + tremendous tug the horses had to drag even us two up to the + real foot of the Pyramids. On arriving we were at once + surrounded by a crowd of Arabs. They are certainly a + fine-looking lot of men, rather clamorous for backshish, and + anxious to sell their curiosities, real or imitation. They + were, however, good-natured, civil, and obliging, and amused me + much during the hour I spent alone with them while the rest of + the party were ascending and descending the Pyramids. Many + could speak several languages quite fluently, and almost all of + them took a good deal of interest in the war, and the prospects + of success on either side; while many had a fair knowledge of + the geography of Europe. While all the rest were on the top of + the one large Pyramid, a man ran down from the summit and up to + the top of the next smaller one (which is, however, more + difficult to ascend) in 'eight minutes for a franc' This feat + was repeated several times by different men, but it really + occupied nearer ten minutes.</p> + + <p>We ate some bread and wine, bought a few curiosities, and + then drove back to the city, feeling very cold and shivery and + regretting the wraps we had left behind. We reached the hotel + just in time for twelve o'clock <i>table-d'hôte</i> + breakfast, and, after an acceptable rest, sallied forth again, + this time on donkeys, to see the bazaars and the sunset from + the <span class="pagenum">Page 469<a name="Page_469" + id="Page_469"></a></span>citadel. We went across squares and + gardens and through wide streets, for, alas! Cairo is being + rapidly Haussmannised. For the capitalist or resident, Cairo + may be improved, but for the traveller, the artist, the + lover of the picturesque, the quaint, and the beautiful, the + place is ruined. Cairo as a beautiful and ancient oriental + city has ceased to exist, and is being rapidly transformed + into a bad imitation of modern Paris, only with bluer skies, + a more brilliant sun, and a more serene climate than it is + possible to find in Europe. Only a few narrow streets and + old houses are still left, with carved wooden lattices, + where you can yet dream that the 'Arabian Nights' are + true.</p> + + <p>We went to the gold and silver bazaar, and bought some + quaint silver jewellery from Assouan, Soudan, and Abyssinia; + then through the Turkish bazaar, the saddlery bazaars, past + mosques and old houses, till at length we emerged into new + squares and new streets, before climbing the hill to the + citadel, the Viceroy's palace, and the splendid Mosque of + Mehemet Ali, built of Egyptian alabaster. The view from the + terrace is superb, over city, desert, river, palm-trees, and + Pyramids. The sunset this evening was a disappointment; yellow, + cold, and watery, a strong north wind bringing up all the sand + from the desert. We returned to the hotel for dinner, and were + all glad to go early to bed.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, April 29th</i>.—The children and I went to + the English church, a semi-Gothic building, without a single + window which could open. Though the church was nearly empty, + the air felt like that of an exhausted receiver, and made one + gasp. In the cool of the afternoon we drove through Roulai, + where the museum stands, in a beautiful garden close by the + riverside, amid flowers in full bloom.</p> + + <p>After an early meal (hardly to be called dinner) we went to + the station, just as all the people were going for a drive to + Shoubrah in the smartest carriages and the prettiest + toilets.</p> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 470<a name="Page_470" + id="Page_470"></a></span>Our journey to Alexandria in the + evening was cool and pleasant. A huge break met us, and we + drove to Abbat's Hotel—considerably improved since our + last visit in 1869.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, April 30th</i>.—Got up at 5 a.m. After a + deliciously soft but very muddy bath, I went for a donkey ride + before breakfast with Mabelle. Tom arrived from the yacht in + time for twelve o'clock breakfast, and announced the voyage + from Port Said to have been rough and unpleasant.</p> + + <p>We called on the Consul, the Vice-Consul, and our old + friend, Consul Burton of Trieste, Haj Abdullah. He has just + returned from a journey through the ancient land of Midian, + undertaken at the special request of the Viceroy. He describes + the expedition as having been most successful; the climate is + almost perfect from September to May; the land is well watered + by little streams flowing through fertile valleys, and full of + fragrant flowers and luscious fruits. The corn reaches above + the camel-men's heads, which means a height of fourteen or + fifteen feet. But the mineral wealth of the country is its most + extraordinary feature. He found traces of gold in the sand of + the river-beds, in spots pointed out to him by his + fellow-pilgrims on the way to Mecca twenty years ago, to say + nothing of tin, iron, &c. Perhaps the most interesting part + of his discovery was the remains of eight ruined cities with + traces in the dry river-beds of stone-crushing and gold-seeking + apparatus, which must have been used centuries ago. He is + writing a book on the subject, which you may perhaps see before + you read this.</p> + + <p>The Consul kindly sent a janissary with us to show us the + Sultan's palace. It is large and bare of furniture; and the + general style of decoration is like that of the palaces at + Cherniga and Dolma Batscher. Thence we went to see Pompey's + Pillar and Cleopatra's Needle, the dahabeas ready to go up the + Nile, &c.; and returned to the hotel in time for dinner and + a chat afterwards in the cool courtyard. + <span class="pagenum">Page 471<a name="Page_471" + id="Page_471"></a></span></p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, May 1st</i>.—I wrote from 3 a.m. to 6.30 + a.m., in order to send letters off by the French mail, and at + seven Mabelle and I sallied forth on donkeys to visit the + market. There was not much to see, however, everything being so + crowded and jammed up, meat, fish, vegetables, and fruit, all + close together. The crowd was amusing, as all the European + householders had negroes or Arabs following them, laden with + their purchases. We found some lovely flowers in a street near + the market, and then we went on to the big gold and silver + bazaar, and to the Turkish and Syrian bazaars, where we saw all + the specialities of Constantinople, and Broussa, Damascus, and + Jerusalem laid out before us. After breakfast, the antics of + two enormous apes, who came round on a donkey, accompanied by a + showman and a boy, amused the children much. They were + hideously ugly, but the cleverest monkeys I ever saw. They went + through a regular little play, quarrelled with one another; the + man and the boy rode the ape, and made him kick; at last the + ape was hurt, and lay fainting in the man's arms, limp and + languid, just able to sip a little water; then he died, and + dropped down stiff, with his eyes shut. His tail was pulled, + his lips and eyelids were forced open, but he never winked an + eyelid or moved a hair of his whiskers. He was thrown about + from side to side, remaining perfectly motionless till, at a + sign from his master, he jumped up as well as ever, shouldered + his gun, and mounted his ass to take his departure. He was + promptly ordered to dismount and ask for backshish, which he + did, cap in hand. Some of the crowd round about not + contributing to his master's satisfaction, the ape took a nasty + venomous-looking little snake out of a bag which he carried + over his shoulder, and threw it among the bystanders, to their + great consternation.</p> + + <p>At two o'clock we went to lunch with the Consul, and what a + pleasant lunch it was, prepared by a French cook, and eaten in + a cool, airy, and shady room free from flies, + <span class="pagenum">Page 472<a name="Page_472" + id="Page_472"></a></span>which were kept out by fine wire + gauze placed in front of each well-shaded door and window! + The table was one mass of the roses for which Alexandria is + so famous. Everybody had wandered about the world more or + less, everybody was in good spirits, and we laughed and + chatted and talked sense or nonsense as the fancy took us, + till it was time to go on board the yacht <i>en masse</i>, + and receive some visitors at tea. A few had arrived before + us, but the children and some others of the party were on + board and had been doing the honours and showing them round. + About 5.30 p.m. our last guests departed, and all was ready + for a start; but, alas! we had to wait for an absent + steward, who had gone in search of the always late linen, + that plague of the poor yachtsman's life when he has a large + party on board. The sun was sinking fast, the wind was + blowing fresh and fair, and if we did not start soon it + would be impossible to do so at all, and a night's work of + more than 120 miles would be lost. At last the welcome boat + was seen coming from the shore; we unmoored, and went ahead + for about an hour. But the light gradually faded away; it + became impossible to distinguish the beacon; the sand banks + are numerous, and there are no lights. It was only + endangering the ship and the lives of all on board to + proceed; so the order was reluctantly given, 'Hard a-port.' + Round she went in her own length almost, and very soon we + let go the anchor just outside our old moorings, and spent + the night, after all, in the harbour of Alexandria.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p> <span class="pagenum">Page 473<a name="Page_473" + id="Page_473"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XXVIII" + id="CHAPTER_XXVIII">CHAPTER XXVIII.</a></p> + + <p class="ctr">'HOME.'</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span><i>She comes, majestic with her swelling + sails</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>The gallant bark along + her watery way</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Homeward she + drives before the favouring gales</i>.<br /></span> + <span><i>Now flitting at their length the streamers + fly</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>And now they ripple with + the ruffling breeze</i>.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Wednesday, May 2nd</i>.—Steam was up at five + o'clock, the wind being still fair but light. Soon it dropped + to a calm, and then went round and blew with great force + exactly in the opposite direction, dead ahead. The fires had to + be put out, for it was so rough we could do no good steaming + against the gale. The screw kept racing round and shaking the + vessel terribly. Of course I was very ill; but the maids did + not mind, and the children rather enjoyed the tumbling about + and the water on deck. We continued scudding along through the + water, but not making much progress on our course.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_488" + id="Illus_488"></a> <img src="images/t_488.jpg" + width="240" + height="153" + alt="Illustration: HOMEWARD BOUND" + title="Illustration: HOMEWARD BOUND" /><br /> + <b>HOMEWARD BOUND</b><br /> + <a href="images/488.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p><i>Thursday, May 3rd</i>.—The wind kept on increasing, + and at last blew quite a gale. We have gone a long way out + <span class="pagenum">Page 474<a name="Page_474" + id="Page_474"></a></span>of our course to the northward, + ready for a favourable change, but we can scarcely make any + way to the westward.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, May 4th</i>.—A repetition of + yesterday—,</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span>Beating, beating all the day,<br /></span> + <span>But never a bit ahead.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p><i>Saturday, May 5th</i>.—A lull at last, and we are + able to have the fires lighted and to steam on our course. We + made the Island of Scarpanto in the morning. All the afternoon + and evening we have been steaming along ten miles to the + southward of Crete. Its outline was very beautiful, surmounted + by the snow-capped mountains. I was up on deck just in time to + behold the most lovely sunset, with exquisite rosy, purple, and + crimson tints on sea and sky.</p> + + <p>I have not quite got over my attack in Cairo yet, and for + the last three days have been completely laid up with a various + mixture of land illness and sea sickness. We stopped steaming + late in the day, but fires were lighted again in the middle of + the night, as the wind was still ahead. There was a discussion + whether or not to go round the north side of the Island of + Kandia, so as to have a glimpse of the British Fleet at anchor + in Suda Bay, if they have already arrived there.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, May 6th, and Monday, May 7th</i>.—Early in + the morning the snowy mountains of Crete were still in sight. + Service was held as usual at eleven, but it was too rough in + the afternoon for it to be repeated.</p> + + <p>Sail and steam, wind and calm, alternated with one another + all day. Tom is anxious to sail every mile he can, and yet not + to lose any unnecessary time, and finds it exceedingly + difficult to combine these two objects.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, May 8th</i>.—A fine morning, with a cold + strong head breeze. At noon we rejoiced to think that Malta was + not more than a few miles ahead, or we should assuredly have + failed to reach our port before nightfall. About three + <span class="pagenum">Page 475<a name="Page_475" + id="Page_475"></a></span>we closed in with the land about + Marsa Scirocco and Delamara Point, and, after one or two + tacks, rounded the Point of Ricasole, and leaving Port St. + Elmo on our right, we swiftly glided into the grand harbour + of Valetta. We have been here so often that it feels quite + like reaching home. We soon found ourselves in our old + quarters in the Dockyard Creek, and had scarcely moored + before one of the officers came on board with the usual + complimentary offers of assistance, whilst directly + afterwards came an invitation to a farewell ball at the + Palace, given to the Duke of Edinburgh. Our old boatman, + Bubbly Joe, took us ashore to dinner, and we found + everything looking as bright and cheerful and steep as it + always does and always will do; not the least bit altered or + modernised. The landlord of the Hôtel d'Angleterre was + delighted to see us again, and so were his servants, who + came flocking from all parts of the house, nearly pulling + the children to pieces, and plying our own servants with + questions in their anxiety to know all about us.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_490" + id="Illus_490"></a> <img src="images/t_490.jpg" + width="135" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Faldetta, Malta" + title="Illustration: Faldetta, Malta" /><br /> + <b>Faldetta, Malta</b><br /> + <a href="images/490.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>We had to go back on board the yacht to dress, and then + return for the ball, by which time I was so thoroughly tired, + and had so bad a headache, that I could not enjoy it much, + pleasant as it was. Very soon after supper we came away and had + a charming row across the harbour to our snug quarters on board + the 'Sunbeam.' These sudden <span class="pagenum">Page + 476<a name="Page_476" + id="Page_476"></a></span> bursts of dissipation on shore are + a delightful change after days and weeks at sea.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, May 9th</i>.—I was up soon after sunrise + and admired this often-abused creek as much as I always do. The + stone houses, the carved and coloured verandahs of bright + flowers, the water lapping the very door-steps, the gaily + painted boats with their high prows at either end, the women in + their black dresses and faldettas, and black-robed priests, all + helped to carry the imagination over the Mediterranean and up + the Adriatic to lovely Venice. At this hour in the morning + there were not many English soldiers or sailors to spoil the + illusion.</p> + + <p>Malta is essentially a border-land—African by + geographical configuration, European politically, and assuredly + Asiatic in its language, its buildings, and in the manners and + customs of the natives. We gave everybody on board a holiday, + and the chance of a run ashore to-day to stretch their legs + after their long sea voyage. Tom went on board the 'Sultan' to + see the Duke of Edinburgh and his splendid ship. Whilst at + breakfast I received an intimation that the Duke of Edinburgh + wished to come and examine the yacht. His Royal Highness + arrived soon afterwards, quite unattended, in a beautiful + ten-oared barge, and paid us a long, visit, inspecting the + yacht minutely and looking at all the pets. He took a great + interest in our voyage and courses, as well as in the numerous + curiosities, knowing at once from what place each had been + procured. The Duke, who had taken very nearly the same cruise + himself in the 'Galatea' a few years ago, inquired very kindly + after all his old friends at Tahiti, Hilo, Honolulu, and many + other places. The Duke is very kind to everybody here. He is + much liked by his brother officers in the squadron, and both + H.R.H. and the Duchess seem to have made themselves most + popular here during the winter. The officers of the 'Sultan,' + several of whom are old friends of ours, appear to think + themselves fortunate indeed in having + <span class="pagenum">Page 477<a name="Page_477" + id="Page_477"></a></span>such a commanding officer, whilst + on shore his approaching departure is universally regretted. + Everybody seems full of their Royal Highnesses' winter ball, + which must have been a most brilliant affair.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_492" + id="Illus_492"></a> <img src="images/t_492.jpg" + width="240" + height="184" + alt="Illustration: Armoury in the Governor's Palace, Valetta" + title="Illustration: Armoury in the Governor's Palace, Valetta" /> + <br /> + <b>Armoury in the Governor's Palace, Valetta</b><br /> + <a href="images/492.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>After the Duke's departure we went ashore again, called on + various friends before luncheon, and went over the palace and + through the armoury. Then we took a walk down the Strada Reale, + the shopping street of Valetta, until it was time to go on + board to receive some friends to tea. The shops are full of + coral, lace, gold and silver filigree work, and a new sort of + lace they make in Gozo, of white silk, in beautiful patterns. + It has been manufactured only during the last few years, and + varies much in quality and design. Some forty or fifty friends + came on board and amused themselves looking at our curiosities + and photographs until long past the dinner hour. We had to + hurry on shore to dine, and go afterwards to the Opera Manoel. + The new Grand Opera House is not to be opened until next + October. It had been blowing fresh and + <span class="pagenum">Page 478<a name="Page_478" + id="Page_478"></a></span>strong from the westward all day, + but to-night, as we rowed across the harbour, the breeze had + dropped to a flat calm, and Tom is most anxious to be off at + daybreak.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, May 10th</i>.—I was up before sunrise. A + fresh fair wind was blowing, and as soon as the children could + be got ready we all went ashore to the market, which was + crowded with people, and full of fish, meat, and all spring + vegetables and fruit. We were to start at 6.30, so there was no + time to lose, and laden with lovely bouquets of flowers we + hastened on board; but it was nine o'clock, after all our + haste, before we were fairly off, through some mistake about + the bill of health.</p> + + <p>Malta is certainly the most delightful place for yachting + winter quarters, with its fine healthy harbour, charming + society, very cheap living, and abundance of everything good. + It is in proximity to many pleasant places, and most + interesting excursions can easily be made to Sicily and Italy, + or the coast of Africa. To-day we glided along the coast, past + the strongly fortified little island of Consino, standing + boldly out in mid-channel between Malta and Gozo. The + Mediterranean appears to us a highway after the lonely oceans + and seas we have been sailing over. Within one hour this + morning, we saw more ships than in the whole of our passage + from Valparaiso to Tahiti and Yokohama. Towards the evening we + could see the island of Pantellaria in the distance. We retain + a lively remembrance of it from having been becalmed just off + it in the 'Albatross' for three weary days and nights. It was + after this and a long series of other vexations and delays that + Tom and I registered a vow never to go a long voyage again in a + yacht without at least auxiliary steam power.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, May 11th</i>.—At 2.30 a.m. Pantellaria was + abeam. At five the homeward-bound P. and O. steamer passed us + quite close, and at six we met the outward-bound P. and O. + steamer. At eight we passed Cape Bon and sailed across the + mouth of the Bay of Tunis, in the centre of which + <span class="pagenum">Page 479<a name="Page_479" + id="Page_479"></a></span>is Goletta, the port of Tunis, the + site of the ancient city of Carthage. Once we anchored close + by that place for two or three days, and on that occasion I + collected enough varieties of marble and mosaic from the old + palaces to make some beautiful tables when we got home. In + the afternoon and evening we made the Fratelli and the + Sorelle Rocks, and still later the little Island of Galita. + There were many steamers going in all directions, and it + struck one very forcibly how much this little islet in + mid-channel stands in need of a light.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, May 13th</i>.—The wind was dead ahead, and + the sea of that remarkably confused character for which the + Mediterranean is famous. It seemed as if the wind of yesterday, + the wind of to-morrow, and the wind of to-day, had all met and + were bent on making a night of it. We had service at eleven and + four. The chart, now a good old friend, for it has been used by + us on so many Mediterranean voyages, showed that this is the + fourth noontide we have spent within a radius of thirty miles + of this particular spot; within a radius of sixty miles we have + spent at least three weeks of our lives at various periods. + This does not of course include voyages in steamers which are + not recorded in the chart.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, May 14th</i>.—About breakfast time to-day + we crossed the meridian of Greenwich; and this virtually + completed our voyage round the world, our original point of + departure having really been Rochester, which is a few minutes + to the east of Greenwich. The wind changed in the middle of the + day, and we passed through a large fleet of merchantmen hove-to + under shelter of Cape de Gat, where they had collected, I + suppose, from various ports in Spain and Italy.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, May 15th</i>.—This was a somewhat sad day, + many of our pets dying from the effects of the cold wind or + from accidents. The steward's mocking-bird from Siam, which + talked like a Christian and followed him about like a + <span class="pagenum">Page 480<a name="Page_480" + id="Page_480"></a></span>dog, died of acute bronchitis early + this morning; and his monkey, the most weird little + creature, with the affectionate ways of a human friend, died + in the afternoon, of inflammation and congestion of the + lungs. Two other monkeys and several birds also expired in + the course of the day.</p> + + <p>This evening 'Beau Brummel,' the little pig I brought from + Bow Island, in the South Pacific, died of a broken spine, as + the doctor, who made a post-mortem examination in each case, + discovered. A spar must have dropped upon poor piggy + accidentally whilst he was running about on deck, though of + course no one knew anything about it. I am very sorry; for + though I must confess he was somewhat greedy and pig-like in + his habits, he was extremely amusing in his ways. He ran about + and went to sleep with the pugs, just like one of themselves. + Besides, I do not think any one else in England could have + boasted of a pig given to them by a South-Sea-Island chief. + Probably 'Beau Brummel' was a lineal descendant of the pigs + Captain Cook took out in the 'Endeavour.'</p> + + <p>The bodies were all placed together in a neat little box and + committed to the deep at sunset, a few tears being shed over + the departed pets, especially by the children.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, May 15th</i>.—Cape de Gat was abeam early + this morning. The wind fell light, but Tom hoped it would + freshen again; otherwise, with steam we might easily have got + into Gibraltar to-night. As it was, fires were not lighted + until ten o'clock.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, May 16th</i>.—At 3 a.m. I was called to + see the light on Europa Point, and stayed on deck to watch the + day dawn and the rising of the sun. It was not, however, a very + agreeable morning; the Levanter was blowing, the signal station + was enveloped in mist, the tops of the mountains of Africa were + scarcely discernible above the clouds, and Ceuta and Ape's Hill + were invisible. Algeciras and San Roque gleamed white on the + opposite shore of the bay, while the dear old Rock itself + looked <span class="pagenum">Page 481<a name="Page_481" + id="Page_481"></a></span>fresher and cleaner than usual, + exhaling a most delicious perfume of flowers. As the sun + rose, the twitterings of the birds in the Alameda sounded + most homelike and delightful.</p> + + <p>We had dropped our anchor inside the New Mole about 4.30, + and before six the familiar sounds of English martial music + could be heard from all the different barracks, as the + regiments came marching down the hill and along the Alameda to + the north front with all their baggage, military trains, tents, + and ambulances, for a day's camping out. We were anxious to get + on shore to see about coals, water, and provisions, but no + health-boat came near us. About seven o'clock we started in + despair, first to hail a policeman on shore (at a most + respectful distance), to inquire where we could get + <i>pratique</i>; then we procured it, and sent word back to the + 'Sunbeam' that she was out of quarantine, and might hoist the + yellow flag. We landed, went to the market, bought some lovely + carnations stuck in a prickly-pear leaf to keep them fresh, and + then went to the Hôtel Royal—kept by the landlord + of the old Club House Hotel, where we had so often + stayed—to order breakfast. Our old friends the servants + greeted us at every step from the house-door to the + coffee-room, and we were taken special care of by a waiter who + remembered us. After breakfast we went to pay some visits. We + thought we ought to go and look at the galleries and Signal + Station, as one or two of our party had never been here before; + so we started, some on foot and some on donkeys. All the way up + the steep streets to the Moorish castle, girls met us, selling + lovely scarlet carnations and yellow roses. The galleries have + not changed in the least since our last visit, but our + soldier-guide told us they were daily expecting some big guns + to come out, and he gave us a minute explanation how they were + to be mounted. It was a pleasant ride, neither too hot nor too + cold. Every crevice and interstice between the rocks was full + of wild flowers, looking bright <span class="pagenum">Page + 482<a name="Page_482" + id="Page_482"></a></span>and pretty, though somewhat + insignificant after the gorgeous tropical blossoms our eyes + have been lately accustomed to. The fog had cleared off, and + the view was beautiful; ships lay in the bay below us from + all parts, including a Portuguese gunboat. We saw also one + of the two old eagles sitting near her nest in the + accustomed place; this year she has only one young one. We + did not see the monkeys, on account of the Levanter, but + their number has increased to twenty-four, so that there is + no immediate fear of their becoming extinct.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_497" + id="Illus_497"></a> <img src="images/t_497.jpg" + width="240" + height="153" + alt="Illustration: Tangier" + title="Illustration: Tangier" /><br /> + <b>Tangier</b><br /> + <a href="images/497.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>At half-past six p.m. we weighed anchor and steamed out of + the anchorage inside the New Mole. In the straits the wind was + fair, so the funnel was soon lowered, and the screw feathered, + and we were racing along under sail alone. Off Tarifa we found + quite a gale blowing, and the wind continued fresh and fair + throughout the night.</p> + + <p><i>Thursday, May 17th</i>.—The strong fair wind + dropped, and then came dead ahead, and off Cadiz we had to get + up steam. There was a strong wind off the mountains near Cape + Sagres, and while Tom was below and the men were busy reefing + the sails, we nearly ran ashore. Luckily I noticed our + <span class="pagenum">Page 483<a name="Page_483" + id="Page_483"></a></span>danger and called Tom, who came up + just in time to alter the helm, when the yacht went round + like a top, though the shore was too close to be pleasant. + It only shows how easily an accident may occur. Both our + fishermen-mates could not bear to be idle, and always + considered looking out an insignificant occupation, and so + neglected that important duty to assist with the sails.</p> + + <p>Off Cape St. Vincent it blew so hard that we were afraid we + should be obliged to bring up in the bay of Sagres; but we + found that it was only a land breeze, and that it was much + smoother outside than we had expected.</p> + + <p><i>Friday, May 18th</i>.—Fresh breeze. We met many + steamers going down the coast with all sail set. After passing + Cape Espichel the wind increased to a northerly gale, against + which it was impossible to proceed. We therefore put into + Lisbon. The mountains at the mouth of the Tagus, the tower and + church of Belem, and the noble river itself looked even more + beautiful in the sunset than my recollection led me to expect. + We soon landed and had an excellent dinner at the Hotel + Braganza, where we had stayed before, and where we were at once + recognised and cordially received by the same landlord and + landlady we remembered in 1861.</p> + + <p>After dinner we went for a walk. One of the things we saw + during our stroll was the fine statue of Luiz de Camoens, + specially interesting to us, as we had so recently seen the + place where he passed many of the weary years of his exile. + Rolling Motion Square was as giddy as ever. It was a curious + fancy to pave it in such a way as to make it look like the + waves of the sea, perpetually moving; and it must be a severe + trial to the peripatetic powers of those who have not quite + recovered their sea legs.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, May 19th</i>.—We were off early; it was a + lovely day, and we had a pleasant drive to Cintra. On our + arrival we mounted donkeys and went to Peña, the + beautiful palace of the ex-King Ferdinand, situated at + <span class="pagenum">Page 484<a name="Page_484" + id="Page_484"></a></span>the top of the mountains. It is an + extraordinary-looking place, the different parts being built + in every imaginable style of architecture, with exquisite + carving and old tiles that would delight the heart of a + connoisseur. One of the most prominent objects near the + Palace of Peña is the statue of Vasco da Gama, nobly + placed on a pedestal of natural rocks, piled on the summit + of a mountain peak, and worthy of the adventurous traveller + it is erected to commemorate. The gardens are full of + camellias, roses, bougainvillea, &c. We lunched at the + excellent hotel, and came to the conclusion that Cintra is + the place, not only 'to spend a happy day,' but many happy + months. It is always pleasant to revisit places of which you + have <span class="pagenum">Page 485<a name="Page_485" + id="Page_485"></a></span>agreeable reminiscences, and to + find your expectations surpassed instead of + disappointed.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_499" + id="Illus_499"></a> <img src="images/t_499.jpg" + width="187" + height="240" + alt="Illustration: Vasco da Gama" + title="Illustration: Vasco da Gama" /><br /> + <b>Vasco da Gama</b><br /> + <a href="images/499.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>We had a hot drive back to Lisbon, and then went by tram to + Belem, where we spent some time in the church and in wandering + through its exquisite cloisters. The first stone was laid in + 1500, and the name changed from Bairro de Restello to Belem or + Bethlehem by Prince Henry of Portugal, the great promoter of + maritime discovery in that century. It was built specially to + commemorate the successful voyage of Vasco da Gama, who + returned from the discovery of India in 1499.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_500" + id="Illus_500"></a> <img src="images/t_500.jpg" + width="240" + height="204" + alt="Illustration: Belem Cloister Gardens" + title="Illustration: Belem Cloister Gardens" /><br /> + <b>Belem Cloister Gardens</b><br /> + <a href="images/500.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>Tom met us with the yacht, and, we went on board with the + intention of proceeding straight to sea. But after passing + through the Canal del Norte a heavy gale obliged us to anchor + in Cascaes Bay for the night, not far from a small schooner + yacht with three ladies on board. It was + <span class="pagenum">Page 486<a name="Page_486" + id="Page_486"></a></span>rather rough, and we were very + tired, or I think we should have ventured to pay them a + visit, even at that late hour. It is absurd to stand upon + ceremony when travelling; but I scarcely know what the + strict etiquette would be on such an occasion—whether + they, as first anchored in the bay, should call on us, or we + on them, as probably the greater travellers and out longer + at sea.</p> + + <p><i>Sunday, May 20th</i>.—Weighed at 5 a.m. There was a + dense fog off Cape del Roca, and the steam-whistle, foghorns, + and bell were constantly kept going, with lugubrious effect. We + had service at eleven and 4.30. Passed the Burlings at 1.30. + Heavy swell all day.</p> + + <p><i>Monday, May 21st</i>.—Rough and disagreeable. Off + Viana at noon. Passed Oporto and Vigo in the course of the + afternoon.</p> + + <p><i>Tuesday, May 22nd</i>.—If yesterday was bad, to-day + was worse. We hove to for some time under the shelter of Cape + Finisterre, then went on again for a short distance; but at + 1.30 a.m. on the 23rd we were obliged to put round and wait for + daylight.</p> + + <p><i>Wednesday, 23rd, and Thursday, 24th</i>.—In the + course of the day the weather mended, though the sea still + continued rough, and our course was really in the direction of + America rather than England. In the evening of the 24th we were + able to light fires, and, with the assistance of steam, to keep + nearly on our proper course.</p> + + <p><i>Saturday, May 26th</i>.—Saw the first English land, + the Start, at 2.30 a.m. Wind continued fresh and fair, but at + noon dropped calm, and we had to steam through the Needles + instead of sailing, as we had done on our way out. We reached + Cowes about 3 p.m., and were immediately welcomed by several + yachts, who dipped their ensigns and fired their guns. We + landed, and were warmly greeted by many friends, and, after + sending off telegrams and letters, re-embarked and proceeded + towards Hastings. We were anxious to land by daylight, but this + was not to be. So it <span class="pagenum">Page + 487<a name="Page_487" + id="Page_487"></a></span>turned out to be midnight before we + reached Beachy Head and could discern the lights of Hastings + shining in the distance. As we drew near to our anchorage we + could see two boats coming swiftly towards us from the + shore. The crews were members of the Royal Naval Artillery + Volunteers, and as they came alongside they raised a shout + of welcome. Hastings had been expecting us all the + afternoon, and late as was the hour, 1.30 a.m., we were + immediately surrounded by a fleet of boats, and many willing + hands seized our heterogeneous cargo and multitudinous + packages, and before daylight all had been safely landed on + the pier. We committed ourselves to the care of the + R.N.A.V., and landed in their boats, and at 4.30, proceeding + to the Queen's Hotel, we had a joyous meeting with T.A.B. + and Maud.</p> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_502" + id="Illus_502"></a> <img src="images/t_502.jpg" + width="240" + height="167" + alt="Illustration: Our Welcome back off Hastings" + title="Illustration: Our Welcome back off Hastings" /><br /> + + <b>Our Welcome back off Hastings</b><br /> + <a href="images/502.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p>How can I describe the warm greetings that met us + everywhere, or the crowd that surrounded us, not only when we + landed, but as we came out of church; how, along the whole ten + miles from Hastings to Battle, people were standing by the + roadside and at their cottage doors to welcome us; how the + Battle bell-ringers never stopped ringing except during service + time; or how the warmest of welcomes ended our delightful year + of travel and made us <span class="pagenum">Page + 488<a name="Page_488" + id="Page_488"></a></span>feel we were home at last, with + thankful hearts for the providential care which had watched + over us whithersoever we roamed?</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span>I travell'd among unknown men,<br /></span> + <span class="i2">In lands beyond the sea,<br /></span> + <span>Nor, England! did I know till then<br /></span> + <span class="i2">What love I bore to thee.<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="figcenter"> + <a name="Illus_503" + id="Illus_503"></a> <img src="images/t_503.jpg" + width="240" + height="197" + alt="Illustration: Home at Last" + title="Illustration: Home at Last" /><br /> + <b>Home at Last</b><br /> + <a href="images/503.gif">View full size illustration.</a> + </div> + + <p> </p> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <p> </p> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 489<a name="Page_489" + id="Page_489"></a></span></p> + + <p class="heading"><a name="APPENDIX" + id="APPENDIX"></a>APPENDIX.</p> + + <p class="ctr">SUMMARY OF THE ENTIRE VOYAGE.</p> + + <p class="ctr">COMPILED FROM THE LOG-BOOK.</p> + + <p> </p> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 490<a name="Page_490" + id="Page_490"></a></span></p> + + <div style="font-size: 95%;"> + <table border="1" + cellpadding="1" + cellspacing="0" + width="100%" + summary="Summary of Entire Voyage, Table 1"> + <tr> + <th colspan="10" + style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;"> + July 1876.</th> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">July</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Remarks</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Temp.<br /> + of water</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Temp.<br /> + of air</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Latitude</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Longitude</td> + + <td colspan="4" + class="ctr">Since previous noon</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Course</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Distance</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Wind and<br /> + weather</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">Steam</td> + + <td class="ctr">Sail </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">6</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + style="text-align: left; padding-left: 5px; width: 39%;"> + Left Cowes, I. of W.</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + ...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + style="text-align: center; width: 8%;"> + Various</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + style="text-align: center; width: 12%;"> + ...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">7</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Torbay at 8.30 + a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">"</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">113</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">8</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Torbay at noon</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">"</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">8</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">9</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">48 45 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">4 46 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">"</td> + + <td class="ctr">8</td> + + <td class="ctr">107</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">10</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">46 27 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">6 50 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">"</td> + + <td class="ctr">99</td> + + <td class="ctr">62</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">11</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Cape Villano, 69 miles, at + noon</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">44 16 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">9 10 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">SW, ¾° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">164</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">12</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Madeira, 513; Torbay, 672 + miles</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">40 29 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">11 1 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">SW by S</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">227</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">13</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Madeira, 375 miles</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">38 24 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">12 21 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">SW</td> + + <td class="ctr">98</td> + + <td class="ctr">36</td> + + <td class="ctr">NNE 26 c.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">14</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Madeira, 246 miles</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">36 36 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">13 58 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">SW, ¼° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">40</td> + + <td class="ctr">90</td> + + <td class="ctr">SE 2</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">15</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Porto Santo, 90 miles</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">34 25 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">15 35 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 33° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">29</td> + + <td class="ctr">123</td> + + <td class="ctr">NNE 2. Foggy</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">16</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Madeira (Funchal) at + noon</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 31° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">57</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">19</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Madeira at 9.25 p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">72</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">20</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Tenerife, 163 miles</td> + + <td class="ctr">73</td> + + <td class="ctr">67</td> + + <td class="ctr">31 11 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">16 45 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 30° E</td> + + <td class="ctr">20</td> + + <td class="ctr">67</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 3 to 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">21</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Puerto Orotava at 2.30 + p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">70</td> + + <td class="ctr">69</td> + + <td class="ctr">28 38 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">16 42 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 2° E</td> + + <td class="ctr">144</td> + + <td class="ctr">15</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">24</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Puerto Orotava, Tenerife, at + noon</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">25</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">72</td> + + <td class="ctr">70</td> + + <td class="ctr">26 53 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">19 11 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">20</td> + + <td class="ctr">173</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">26</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">72</td> + + <td class="ctr">75</td> + + <td class="ctr">24 45 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">21 0 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 37° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">161</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">27</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">72</td> + + <td class="ctr">74</td> + + <td class="ctr">22 27 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">23 4 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 39° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">180</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">28</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">73</td> + + <td class="ctr">71</td> + + <td class="ctr">19 48 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">24 14 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 22° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">172</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">29</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">75</td> + + <td class="ctr">77</td> + + <td class="ctr">17 26 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">24 55 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 16° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">148</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">30</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Tarafal Bay, St. + Antonio, 9 a.m.; left 6 p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">75</td> + + <td class="ctr">75</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">Various</td> + + <td class="ctr">15</td> + + <td class="ctr">52</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">31</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">73</td> + + <td class="ctr">14 45 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">25 26 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">120</td> + + <td class="ctr">12</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;"> + Average temperature for the month</td> + + <td class="ctr">73.2°</td> + + <td class="ctr">72.33°</td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td colspan="10" + style="height: 2em;"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <th colspan="10" + style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;"> + August 1876.</th> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Aug.</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Remarks</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Temp.<br /> + of water</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Temp.<br /> + of air</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Latitude</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Longitude</td> + + <td colspan="4" + class="ctr">Since previous noon</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Course</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Distance</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Wind and<br /> + weather</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">Steam</td> + + <td class="ctr">Sail </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">1</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + 79</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + 74</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + 11 59 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + 25 9 W</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">S, 5° E</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">159</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">13</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">Calm</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">2</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">74</td> + + <td class="ctr">9 10 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">24 46 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 7° E</td> + + <td class="ctr">163</td> + + <td class="ctr"> ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">SW by W 2</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">3</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">75</td> + + <td class="ctr">7 42 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">21 38 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 57° E</td> + + <td class="ctr">160</td> + + <td class="ctr">27</td> + + <td class="ctr">SSW 7</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">4</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Sierra Leone, 289 miles</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">74</td> + + <td class="ctr">7 16 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">18 34 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 84° E</td> + + <td class="ctr"> ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">241</td> + + <td class="ctr">S to SSE 6-7</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">5</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">75</td> + + <td class="ctr">5 48 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">20 30 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 53° W</td> + + <td class="ctr"> ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">139</td> + + <td class="ctr">S4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">6</td> + + <td class="lpad5">The warm Guinea and Equatorial + currents extend to about<br /> + 7° N, and the latter to about 5° S, of the + Equator</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">79</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">74</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">3 58 N</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">22 6 W</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">S, 42° W</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr"> ...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">156</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">S by E 5 to 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">7</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">74</td> + + <td class="ctr">71</td> + + <td class="ctr">1 52 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">24 5 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 43° W</td> + + <td class="ctr"> ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">179</td> + + <td class="ctr">S 4 to 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">8</td> + + <td class="lpad5">St. Paul's Rock, 250 miles. + Crossed Equator at 10.30 a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">75</td> + + <td class="ctr">72.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">0 56 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">26 34 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 42° W</td> + + <td class="ctr"> ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">225</td> + + <td class="ctr">SE 6 to 7</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">9</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">74</td> + + <td class="ctr">4 23 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">28 42 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 32° W</td> + + <td class="ctr"> ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">243</td> + + <td class="ctr">SSE, ESE 7</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">10</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Pernambuco, 270 miles</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">73.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">7 35 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">30 19 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 24° W</td> + + <td class="ctr"> ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">211</td> + + <td class="ctr">SE 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">11</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">77</td> + + <td class="ctr">71.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">10 11 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">32 26 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 39° W</td> + + <td class="ctr"> ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">200</td> + + <td class="ctr">SE 4 to 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">12</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Bahia, 300 miles</td> + + <td class="ctr">74</td> + + <td class="ctr">71.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">13 1 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">33 51 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 28° W</td> + + <td class="ctr"> ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">196</td> + + <td class="ctr">SE 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">13</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">74</td> + + <td class="ctr">71</td> + + <td class="ctr">15 42 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">35 51 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 37° W</td> + + <td class="ctr"> ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">202</td> + + <td class="ctr">SE by S 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">14</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">74.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">70.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">17 25 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">37 31 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 43° W</td> + + <td class="ctr"> ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">141</td> + + <td class="ctr">NNE 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">15</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">73</td> + + <td class="ctr">69.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">19 58 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">38 1 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 11° W</td> + + <td class="ctr"> ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">155</td> + + <td class="ctr">NEly 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">16</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">66</td> + + <td class="ctr">67</td> + + <td class="ctr">22 37 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">40 39 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 45° W</td> + + <td class="ctr"> ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">225</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">17</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Rio de Janeiro at 6.15 + p.m</td> + + <td class="ctr">64.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">65</td> + + <td class="ctr">23 53 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">42 50 W</td> + + <td class="ctr"> ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">87</td> + + <td class="ctr">82</td> + + <td class="ctr">WSW 6 to 9</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="lpad5">Average temperature for the + month</td> + + <td class="ctr">75.3°</td> + + <td class="ctr">71.94°</td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td colspan="10" + style="height: 2em;"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <th colspan="10" + style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;"> + September 1876.</th> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Sept.</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Remarks</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Temp.<br /> + of water</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Temp.<br /> + of air</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Latitude</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Longitude</td> + + <td colspan="4" + class="ctr">Since previous noon</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Course</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Distance</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Wind and<br /> + weather</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">Steam</td> + + <td class="ctr">Sail </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">5</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + style="text-align: left; padding-left: 5px;"> + Left Rio de Janeiro at 6 a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + ...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">36</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">SSW 2 to 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">6</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">70</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">24 56 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">45 40 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">120</td> + + <td class="ctr">32</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">7</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">67</td> + + <td class="ctr">65</td> + + <td class="ctr">26 50 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">47 34 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">136</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 8</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">8</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">68</td> + + <td class="ctr">67</td> + + <td class="ctr">30 30 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">49 4 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 16 ° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">243</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 8 to 9</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">9</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Lobos, WSW, 160 miles</td> + + <td class="ctr">57</td> + + <td class="ctr">57.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">34 18 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">51 43 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 31 ° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">270</td> + + <td class="ctr">SW 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">10</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">57</td> + + <td class="ctr">58</td> + + <td class="ctr">31 48 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">54 13 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 72 ° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">119</td> + + <td class="ctr">31</td> + + <td class="ctr">S by E 6 to 7</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">11</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Monte Video at 4.30 + a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">60.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">60</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">115</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">12</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Monte Video at 6 a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">119</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 2 to 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">13</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived off Buenos Ayres at 10 + p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">27</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Buenos Ayres at 11.30 + a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">62</td> + + <td class="ctr">60.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">28</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="lpad5">Rescued crew of + 'Monkshaven'</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">53</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">57.5</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">36 57 S</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">55 44 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">Various<br /> + down R.<br /> + Plate</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">119</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">50</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">WSW to NW 3,<br /> + WNW 7 to 8</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">29</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">51.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">57</td> + + <td class="ctr">38 50 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">57 5 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">83</td> + + <td class="ctr">53</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">30</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">52</td> + + <td class="ctr">51.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">41 00 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">59 50 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 40 ° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">196</td> + + <td class="ctr">NW by W 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;"> + Average temperature for the month</td> + + <td class="ctr">59.7 °</td> + + <td class="ctr">59.78 °</td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td colspan="10" + style="height: 2em;"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <th colspan="10" + style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;"> + October 1876.</th> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Oct.</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Remarks</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Temp.<br /> + of water</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Temp.<br /> + of air</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Latitude</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Longitude</td> + + <td colspan="4" + class="ctr">Since previous noon</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Course</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Distance</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Wind and<br /> + weather</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">Steam</td> + + <td class="ctr">Sail </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">1</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + 50.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + 53</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + 43 10 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + 62 28 W</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">S, 45° W</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">103</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">64</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">NW by W 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">2</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">49</td> + + <td class="ctr">51</td> + + <td class="ctr">45 33 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">64 0 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 39°W</td> + + <td class="ctr">139</td> + + <td class="ctr">31</td> + + <td class="ctr">SW 7 to 8</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">3</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">46</td> + + <td class="ctr">49</td> + + <td class="ctr">48 31 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">65 9 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 15°W</td> + + <td class="ctr">65</td> + + <td class="ctr">116</td> + + <td class="ctr">W by S 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">4</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">43.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">42.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">49 25 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">67 17 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">122</td> + + <td class="ctr">14</td> + + <td class="ctr">SE by S 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">5</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Off Cape Virgin at noon. Arrived + at Possession Bay<br /> + at 7.45 p.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">43.5</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">44</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">52 20 S</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">68 17 W</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">185</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">N by E4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">6</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Possesion Bay at 6 a.m. + Arrived at Sandy Point<br /> + at 2.30 p.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">52 45 S</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">70 20 W</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">95</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">Light airs, SW6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">8</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Sandy Point at 6 a.m. + Arrived at Borja Bay<br /> + Straits of Magellan, at 6.30 p.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">46</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">46.2</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">53 53 S</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">71 17 W</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">Various</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">105</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">SE and E 3 to 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">9</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Borja Bay at 6.30 a.m. + Arrived at Otter Bay<br /> + at 6.55 p.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">45.8</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">45.8</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">52 22 S</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">73 40 W</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">"</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">105</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">10</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Otter Bay at 5 a.m. Arrived + at Puerto Bueno<br /> + at 5.30 p.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">49</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">48.7</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">51 0 S</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">74 12 W</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">"</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">95</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">11</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Puerto Bueno at 5 a.m. + Arrived at Port Grappler<br /> + at 7 p.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">49</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">50</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">49 26 S</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">74 20 W</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">"</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">105</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">12</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="lpad5">Left Port Grappler at 5 a.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">51</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">51</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">"</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">60</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">Calm and light<br /> + southerly winds</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">13</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">52</td> + + <td class="ctr">51.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">46 0 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">76 23 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">"</td> + + <td class="ctr">150</td> + + <td class="ctr">25</td> + + <td class="ctr">NEly 5 to 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">14</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">53.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">52.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">44 55 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">76 46 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 14°W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">67</td> + + <td class="ctr">SW 2 to 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">15</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">56</td> + + <td class="ctr">55</td> + + <td class="ctr">42 47 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">76 3 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 14°E</td> + + <td class="ctr">100</td> + + <td class="ctr">32</td> + + <td class="ctr">Calm, S by E 1-2</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">16</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">57.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">57.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">39 52 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">74 42 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 20°E</td> + + <td class="ctr">152</td> + + <td class="ctr">37</td> + + <td class="ctr">S by E 2 to 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">17</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">59</td> + + <td class="ctr">58.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">39 0 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">74 38 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 52°E</td> + + <td class="ctr">28</td> + + <td class="ctr">63</td> + + <td class="ctr">NW by W 4 to 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">18</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Lota, Chilli, at 9 + a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">Various</td> + + <td class="ctr">144</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">Calm & light airs</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">19</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Lota at 2 p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">57</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">NW by W 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">20</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Valparaiso, 195 miles</td> + + <td class="ctr">60.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">57.9</td> + + <td class="ctr">36 5 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">72 59 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">65</td> + + <td class="ctr">S by W 5 to 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">21</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Valparaiso at 4 + p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">33 18 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">72 19 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">211</td> + + <td class="ctr">S by W 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">30</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="lpad5">Left Valparaiso at 3 p.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">Light airs<br /> + and calms</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">31</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">62.1</td> + + <td class="ctr">61</td> + + <td class="ctr">32 34 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">72 58 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 73°W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">NW by N 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;"> + Average temperature for the month</td> + + <td class="ctr">51.7°</td> + + <td class="ctr">51.5°</td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + </tr> + </table> + </div> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 494<a name="Page_494" + id="Page_494"></a></span></p> + + <div style="font-size: 95%;"> + <table border="1" + cellpadding="1" + cellspacing="0" + width="100%" + summary="Summary of Entire Voyage, Table 2"> + <tr> + <th colspan="12" + style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;"> + November 1876.</th> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Nov.</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Remarks</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Temp. of water</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Temp. of air</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Latitude</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Longitude</td> + + <td colspan="4" + class="ctr">Since previous noon</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Noon</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">6 p.m.</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Noon</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">6 p.m.</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Course</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Distance</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Wind and<br /> + weather</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">Steam</td> + + <td class="ctr">Sail </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">1</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="lpad5">In S. Pacific Ocean</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + 63.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + 61.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + 31 30 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + 72 55 W</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">N, 64° W</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">112</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">W by N 3 to 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">2</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">65.6</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">62.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">30 54 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">74 9 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 61° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">111</td> + + <td class="ctr">S 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">3</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">67.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">63.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">29 11 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">76 15 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 46° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">151</td> + + <td class="ctr">SSE 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">4</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">68.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">68.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">64.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">27 45 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">78 55 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 59° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">167</td> + + <td class="ctr">SE 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">5</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">71.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">69.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">66</td> + + <td class="ctr">65.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">26 54 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">80 48 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 63° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">113</td> + + <td class="ctr">SE 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">6</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">71.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">69.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">68</td> + + <td class="ctr">66</td> + + <td class="ctr">25 52 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">83 10 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 64° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">140</td> + + <td class="ctr">ESE 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">7</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">71</td> + + <td class="ctr">70</td> + + <td class="ctr">68.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">66.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">24 47 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">85 51 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 66° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">163</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE by E 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">8</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">23 47 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">86 58 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 46° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">107</td> + + <td class="ctr">NNW 2. Calms</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">9</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">72</td> + + <td class="ctr">72.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">68</td> + + <td class="ctr">68.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">21 28 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">88 27 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 31° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">144</td> + + <td class="ctr">18</td> + + <td class="ctr">ESE 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">10</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">72.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">72</td> + + <td class="ctr">74</td> + + <td class="ctr">69</td> + + <td class="ctr">19 12 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">89 48 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 29° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">166</td> + + <td class="ctr">E by S 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">11</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">73</td> + + <td class="ctr">71.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">69.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">68.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">17 19 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">91 42 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 44° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">156</td> + + <td class="ctr">ESE 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">12</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">73</td> + + <td class="ctr">72.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">71</td> + + <td class="ctr">70</td> + + <td class="ctr">16 53 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">94 43 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 82° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">178</td> + + <td class="ctr">ESE 4 to 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">13</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">74.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">73.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">71</td> + + <td class="ctr">70.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">16 56 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">98 17 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 89° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">215</td> + + <td class="ctr">ESE 7</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">14</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">73.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">73.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">71.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">71</td> + + <td class="ctr">17 6 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">102 11 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 87° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">217</td> + + <td class="ctr">E 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">15</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">76</td> + + <td class="ctr">76</td> + + <td class="ctr">72.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">71.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">16 44 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">105 57 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 86° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">217</td> + + <td class="ctr">ENE 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">16</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">77</td> + + <td class="ctr">75.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">73</td> + + <td class="ctr">73</td> + + <td class="ctr">17 0 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">109 16 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 85° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">199</td> + + <td class="ctr">ENE</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">17</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">76.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">75.0</td> + + <td class="ctr">17 16 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">112 0 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 84° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">159</td> + + <td class="ctr">E to N 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">18</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">75.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">73.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">16 18 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">114 52 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 70° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">173</td> + + <td class="ctr">E 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">19</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">76</td> + + <td class="ctr">15 38 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">117 52 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 77° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">180</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">20</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">80.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">77</td> + + <td class="ctr">76.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">15 19 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">120 17 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 82° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">139</td> + + <td class="ctr">ENE 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">21</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">80</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">76.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">15 25 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">122 18 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 87° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">121</td> + + <td class="ctr">ENE 3 to 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">22</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">77</td> + + <td class="ctr">15 21 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">124 20 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 88° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">123</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE by E 3 to 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">23</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">81.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">80.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">77</td> + + <td class="ctr">15 4 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">126 40 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 83° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">141</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">24</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">77</td> + + <td class="ctr">15 18 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">129 12 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 85° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">153</td> + + <td class="ctr">NNE 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">25</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">80.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">15 27 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">132 12 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 86° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">160</td> + + <td class="ctr">21</td> + + <td class="ctr">E 2</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">26</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">81.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">80.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">15 47 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">135 20 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">142</td> + + <td class="ctr">35</td> + + <td class="ctr">ESE 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">27</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Ditto + Ditto</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">80.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">16 54 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">138 9 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">156</td> + + <td class="ctr">32</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">28</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="lpad5">Stopped at Bow Island.<br /> + Low Archipelago, for 3 hours</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">81.8</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">81.6</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">80</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">79.6</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">17 55 S</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">140 43 W</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">S, 56° W</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">20</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">148</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">ESE 4 to 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">29</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">81.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">77</td> + + <td class="ctr">18 41 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">143 7 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">10</td> + + <td class="ctr">152</td> + + <td class="ctr">SE 4 to 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">30</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">81.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">80</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">18 20 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">145 57 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 79° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">162</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 4 to 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td style="text-align: right;">Average temperature + for the month</td> + + <td class="ctr" + colspan="2">76.3°</td> + + <td class="ctr" + colspan="2">73.3°</td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td colspan="12" + style="height: 2em;"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <th colspan="12" + style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;"> + December 1876.</th> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Dec.</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Remarks</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Temp. of water</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Temp. of air</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Latitude</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Longitude</td> + + <td colspan="4" + class="ctr">Since previous noon</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Noon</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">6 p.m.</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Noon</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">6 p.m.</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Course</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Distance</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Wind and<br /> + weather</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">Steam</td> + + <td class="ctr">Sail </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">1</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="lpad5">Landed at Maitea at 10 a.m.<br /> + Left at 3:30 p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + 17 53 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + 147 55 W</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">W, ¼° N</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">139</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">NE 4 to 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">2</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Tahiti at 8 a.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">17</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">98</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE to NW,<br /> + 5 to a calm</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">8</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Tahiti at 6 p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">9</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">82</td> + + <td class="ctr">80</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">15 28 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">149 24 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">101</td> + + <td class="ctr">24</td> + + <td class="ctr">ENE and E 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">10</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">82</td> + + <td class="ctr">80.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">13 31 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">149 45 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 10° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">124</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE by E 3 to 7</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">11</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">83.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">11 0 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">150 3 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">155</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE and NE 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">12</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">83.6</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.4</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">9 10 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">149 48 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 8° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">151</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 4 to 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">13</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">83</td> + + <td class="ctr">82</td> + + <td class="ctr">80.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">5 34 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">150 45 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 15° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">224</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">14</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Crossed Equator at 4.30 a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">81.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">80</td> + + <td class="ctr">80</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">2 12 S</td> + + <td class="ctr">152 18 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 24° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">221</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">15</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">81.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">80.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">1 10 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">152 3 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 4° E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">203</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE by E 5,<br /> + SE 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">16</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">81.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">3 15 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">151 26 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 17° E</td> + + <td class="ctr">22</td> + + <td class="ctr">109</td> + + <td class="ctr">SE 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">17</td> + + <td class="lpad5">To Hilo, 885 Miles</td> + + <td class="ctr">81.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">5 28 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">150 16 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 58° E</td> + + <td class="ctr">136</td> + + <td class="ctr">15</td> + + <td class="ctr">In Doldrums</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">18</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">83</td> + + <td class="ctr">82</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">7 54 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">150 36 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">, 11° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">48</td> + + <td class="ctr">105</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 5 to 7</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">19</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">80</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">77</td> + + <td class="ctr">10 22 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">152 37 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">, 22° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">160</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">20</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">77</td> + + <td class="ctr">13 43 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">152 43 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 18° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">212</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 7</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">21</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">78.2</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">78</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">74</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">73.8</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">16 28 N</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">153 28 W</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">N, 5° W</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">26</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">145</td> + + <td class="ctr">Lost NE<br /> + Trades in<br /> + heavy<br /> + showers</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">22</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Hilo, Hawaii, at 3.30 + p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">74.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">19 44 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">155 4 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 25° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">202</td> + + <td class="ctr">38</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">26</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Hilo at 5.15 p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">74.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">27</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Honolulu, Oahu, at + 5.15 p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">76</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">20 42 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">157 20 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">Various</td> + + <td class="ctr">200</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;"> + Average temperature for the month</td> + + <td class="ctr">80.1°</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.4°</td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td colspan="12" + style="height: 2em;"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <th colspan="12" + style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;"> + January 1877.</th> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Jan.</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Remarks</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Temp. of water</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Temp. of air</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Latitude</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Longitude</td> + + <td colspan="4" + class="ctr">Since previous noon</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Noon</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">6 p.m.</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Noon</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">6 p.m.</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Course</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Distance</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Wind and<br /> + weather</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">Steam</td> + + <td class="ctr">Sail </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">3</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="lpad5">Left Honolulu at 5 p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + ...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">ENE 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">4</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.1</td> + + <td class="ctr">76</td> + + <td class="ctr">20 10 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">159 50 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 59° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">65</td> + + <td class="ctr">70</td> + + <td class="ctr">E by S 6 to 8</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">5</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">76.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">76.6</td> + + <td class="ctr">20 4 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">164 5 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">240</td> + + <td class="ctr">SE by S 8</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">6</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.1</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">20 3 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">168 53 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">253</td> + + <td class="ctr">S by E 7 to 9</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">7</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">77</td> + + <td class="ctr">74.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">74</td> + + <td class="ctr">19 31 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">169 35 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 60° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">120</td> + + <td class="ctr">N ½, W 9</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">8</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">73.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">71.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">17 15 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">173 8 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 59° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">244</td> + + <td class="ctr">N by E 9</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">9</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">74</td> + + <td class="ctr">71.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">16 44 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">177 15 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 82° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">240</td> + + <td class="ctr">E by S 2</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">10</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">76</td> + + <td class="ctr">74.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">17 15 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">179 6 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 74° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">20</td> + + <td class="ctr">92</td> + + <td class="ctr">Calms</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">11</td> + + <td class="lpad5">180° longitude</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">12</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">80.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">80</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">75.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">17 16 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">178 28 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">W</td> + + <td class="ctr">102</td> + + <td class="ctr">38</td> + + <td class="ctr">S by E 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">13</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">80.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">75.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">17 19 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">176 29 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">115</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">14</td> + + <td class="lpad5">To Yokohama, 2,700 miles</td> + + <td class="ctr">80</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">75.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">75</td> + + <td class="ctr">16 1 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">173 25 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 66° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">98</td> + + <td class="ctr">96</td> + + <td class="ctr">NNE 10</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">15</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">80.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">80</td> + + <td class="ctr">73.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">73.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">16 2 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">168 15 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">298</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 9</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">16</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">80.1</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">75</td> + + <td class="ctr">74.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">16 38 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">163 47 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 82° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">260</td> + + <td class="ctr">ENE 7</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">17</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">76</td> + + <td class="ctr">75</td> + + <td class="ctr">17 3 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">159 37 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 84° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">240</td> + + <td class="ctr">ENE 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">18</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">76</td> + + <td class="ctr">75.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">17 36 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">155 40 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 82° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">229</td> + + <td class="ctr">ENE 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">19</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.4</td> + + <td class="ctr">77</td> + + <td class="ctr">75.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">18 16 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">153 11 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 74° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">148</td> + + <td class="ctr">NNE 2</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">20</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">76</td> + + <td class="ctr">75</td> + + <td class="ctr">18 57 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">150 23 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 75° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">151</td> + + <td class="ctr">13</td> + + <td class="ctr">N by W 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">21</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">78.2</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">77.2</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">73.5</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">72.3</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">19 36 N</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">147 19 E</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">N, 77° W</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">128</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">50</td> + + <td class="ctr">N by W to<br /> + NNW 4 to 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">22</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">76.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">67.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">66</td> + + <td class="ctr">20 7 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">144 5 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 81° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">185</td> + + <td class="ctr">NNE 8 to 7</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">23</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">71</td> + + <td class="ctr">70</td> + + <td class="ctr">62.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">61.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">21 52 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">141 39 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 52° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">172</td> + + <td class="ctr">NNE 5 to 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">24</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">68.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">68</td> + + <td class="ctr">61.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">59.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">23 33 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">139 29 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 50° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">158</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 7 to 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">25</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">68</td> + + <td class="ctr">67.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">59</td> + + <td class="ctr">59</td> + + <td class="ctr">26 12 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">138 10 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 24° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">174</td> + + <td class="ctr">ESE 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">26</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">65.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">64.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">61</td> + + <td class="ctr">59.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">29 23 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">137 33 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 10° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">100</td> + + <td class="ctr">94</td> + + <td class="ctr">W 9 to 10</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">27</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">63.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">64.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">51.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">51</td> + + <td class="ctr">30 59 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">137 49 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 8 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">94</td> + + <td class="ctr">NWly 3 to 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">28</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">63.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">48.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">46</td> + + <td class="ctr">32 40 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">138 35 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 21° E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">108</td> + + <td class="ctr">W by N 7</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">29</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Yokohama at 3.30 + p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">63</td> + + <td class="ctr">52</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">41.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">Various</td> + + <td class="ctr">60</td> + + <td class="ctr">121</td> + + <td class="ctr">Gale</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;"> + Average temperature for the month</td> + + <td class="ctr">76.8°</td> + + <td class="ctr">69.7°</td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <th colspan="12" + style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;"> + February 1877.</th> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Feb.</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Remarks</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Temp. of water</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Temp. of air</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Latitude</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Longitude</td> + + <td colspan="4" + class="ctr">Since previous noon</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Noon</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">6 p.m.</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Noon</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">6 p.m.</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Course</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Distance</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Wind and<br /> + weather</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">Steam</td> + + <td class="ctr">Sail </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">2</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="lpad5">Left Yokohama at 6.30 p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + ...</td> + + <td rowspan="6" + class="ctr"><br /> + Various;<br /> + steering<br /> + along<br /> + the<br /> + South<br /> + Coast<br /> + of<br /> + Japan</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">3</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">53</td> + + <td class="ctr">52</td> + + <td class="ctr">41.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">41</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">122</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">NW 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">4</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Kobe at 7 p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">58</td> + + <td class="ctr">46</td> + + <td class="ctr">40</td> + + <td class="ctr">35.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">178</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">NNE 9</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">12</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Kobe at 6 a.m. and returned + at 2 p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">40</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">15</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Kobe at 4.30 a.m. and + anchored at<br /> + Ino Ura at 8.30 p.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">46.1</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">45</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">33</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">32.5</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">90</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">W 9</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">16</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Ino Ura at 5 a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">49.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">50</td> + + <td class="ctr">39</td> + + <td class="ctr">37.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">110</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">17</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Anchored off Isaki lighthouse at + 4 a.m.<br /> + Left the anchorage at 8.30 a.m. and<br /> + arrived at Simoneseki at 11 a.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">50</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">19</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Simoneseki at 8.30 a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">44.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">58</td> + + <td class="ctr">34</td> + + <td class="ctr">41.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">40</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">20</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">61</td> + + <td class="ctr">51</td> + + <td class="ctr">46.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">31 16 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">131 54 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">127</td> + + <td class="ctr">NW by W 9<br /> + to 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">21</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">69</td> + + <td class="ctr">67</td> + + <td class="ctr">60</td> + + <td class="ctr">59.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">29 7 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">129 49 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">SW</td> + + <td class="ctr">183</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">Calm</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">22</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">68.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">62</td> + + <td class="ctr">67</td> + + <td class="ctr">62</td> + + <td class="ctr">28 13 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">125 53 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">WSW</td> + + <td class="ctr">13</td> + + <td class="ctr">208</td> + + <td class="ctr">ESE</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">23</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">67.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">65.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">65.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">64.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">27 14 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">123 3 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 63° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">178</td> + + <td class="ctr">SE</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">24</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">55</td> + + <td class="ctr">55</td> + + <td class="ctr">51.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">49</td> + + <td class="ctr">25 0 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">119 35 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">34</td> + + <td class="ctr">183</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 7 to 10</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">25</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">61</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">56.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">22 35 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">115 38 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">288</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 10 to 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">26</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Hongkong at 8 + a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">61</td> + + <td class="ctr">29</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;"> + Average temperature for the month</td> + + <td class="ctr">56.5°</td> + + <td class="ctr">48°</td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td colspan="12" + style="height: 2em;"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <th colspan="12" + style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;"> + March 1877.</th> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Mar.</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Remarks</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Temp. of water</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Temp. of air</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Latitude</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Longitude</td> + + <td colspan="4" + class="ctr">Since previous noon</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Noon</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">6 p.m.</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Noon</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">6 p.m.</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Course</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Distance</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Wind and<br /> + weather</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">Steam</td> + + <td class="ctr">Sail </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">2</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Hongkong at 7 a.m. Arrived + at<br /> + Macao at 1.30 p.m. Left at 6.30 p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + 64.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + 64.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + ...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">45</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">8</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">72.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">72.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">72.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">70</td> + + <td class="ctr">20 5 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">113 28 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">136</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">9</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">73.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">72</td> + + <td class="ctr">72</td> + + <td class="ctr">68</td> + + <td class="ctr">18 0 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">113 6 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">S</td> + + <td class="ctr">48</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">E 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">10</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">76.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">73</td> + + <td class="ctr">71.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">15 40 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">113 48 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">SSE</td> + + <td class="ctr">20</td> + + <td class="ctr">128</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">11</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">75.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">74.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">13 45 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">112 1 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">SW by W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">155</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">12</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">76.4</td> + + <td class="ctr">76</td> + + <td class="ctr">11 29 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">110 32 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 35° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">170</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">13</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">75.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">9 34 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">108 33 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">S, 46° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">171</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">14</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">77.6</td> + + <td class="ctr">76.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">7 34 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">107 3 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">SW by S</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">150</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 3 to 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">15</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">77</td> + + <td class="ctr">4 46 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">106 16 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">S by W, ½° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">176</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">16</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">80</td> + + <td class="ctr">80</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">76.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">2 51 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">104 43 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">SW, ½° S</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">150</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 3 to 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">17</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Singapore at 8 + a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">63</td> + + <td class="ctr">72</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 3 to 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">18</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Singapore at 3 p.m. + and<br /> + arrived at Johore at 8 p.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">19</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Johore at 4 a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">83.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">36</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td rowspan="4" + class="ctr">Calms and<br /> + light airs<br /> + from NE</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">20</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Malacca at 8 + a.m.;<br /> + left at 11.30a.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">83.2</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">79.5</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">130</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">21</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">88</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">80.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">4 4 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">100 30 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">170</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">22</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Penang at 8 a.m.<br /> + left at 10 p.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">99</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">23</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">83.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">84.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">88.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">5 55 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">98 39 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">109</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">24</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">84.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">84</td> + + <td class="ctr">82</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">6 10 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">95 5 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">212</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">25</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">85</td> + + <td class="ctr">84</td> + + <td class="ctr">84.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">80</td> + + <td class="ctr">6 26 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">91 41 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">208</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">26</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">85.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">84</td> + + <td class="ctr">86</td> + + <td class="ctr">81.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">6 25 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">88 25 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">198</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">27</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">86</td> + + <td class="ctr">84.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">87</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">6 4 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">85 3 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">203</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">28</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">85.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">83</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">5 33 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">81 29 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">218</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">29</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Point de Galle at 7 + a.m.<br /> + left at 9.30 p.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">85</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">30</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Colombo at 11 + a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">90</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;"> + Average temperature for the month</td> + + <td class="ctr">79.4°</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.2°</td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td colspan="12" + style="height: 2em;"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <th colspan="12" + style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;"> + April 1877.</th> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="3" + style="text-align: center; font-size: 70%;"> + April</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Remarks</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Temp. of water</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Temp. of air</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Latitude</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Longitude</td> + + <td colspan="4" + class="ctr">Since previous noon</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Noon</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">6 p.m.</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Noon</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">6 p.m.</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Course</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Distance</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Wind and<br /> + weather</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">Steam</td> + + <td class="ctr">Sail </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">5</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="lpad5">Left Colombo Ceylon, at 1.30 + p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + 85.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + 80.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + ...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">6</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">85.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">85</td> + + <td class="ctr">83</td> + + <td class="ctr">80.6</td> + + <td class="ctr">7 26 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">77 10 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 81° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">165</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">W 1</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">7</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">86</td> + + <td class="ctr">85</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">7 31 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">74 7 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 88° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">190</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">N 2</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">8</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">85.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">84.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">81.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">8 16 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">70 31 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">W</td> + + <td class="ctr">216</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">N 4 to 3</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">9</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">86</td> + + <td class="ctr">85</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr">8 50 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">66 59 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">W by N</td> + + <td class="ctr">213</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">Calm</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">10</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">85</td> + + <td class="ctr">83.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">9 38 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">63 32 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 77° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">210</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 1 to 2</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">11</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">83.6</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">83</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">10 27 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">60 1 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">214</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">ENE 2</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">12</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">83.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.6</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">11 14 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">56 30 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">213</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">ENE 3 to 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">13</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">83.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">80</td> + + <td class="ctr">11 38 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">52 57 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 83° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">210</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">14</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">83.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">82</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">80</td> + + <td class="ctr">12 33 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">49 43 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">198</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">E 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">15</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Aden at 10p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">82</td> + + <td class="ctr">81</td> + + <td class="ctr">79</td> + + <td class="ctr">12 55 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">46 17 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 84° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">203</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">16</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Aden at 7 p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">80</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">17</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Off Island of Perim</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">82</td> + + <td class="ctr">83</td> + + <td class="ctr">81.7</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">105</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">18</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">82</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">83.4</td> + + <td class="ctr">81.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">16 13 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">41 27 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">230</td> + + <td class="ctr">S 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">19</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">82</td> + + <td class="ctr">84</td> + + <td class="ctr">83</td> + + <td class="ctr">18 13 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">40 7 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">29</td> + + <td class="ctr">116</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">20</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">83.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">82</td> + + <td class="ctr">84</td> + + <td class="ctr">83.6</td> + + <td class="ctr">20 39 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">38 30 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 33° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">149</td> + + <td class="ctr">22</td> + + <td class="ctr">Calms</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">21</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">86.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">83.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">23 33 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">36 50 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 30° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">190</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">22</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">78.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">75</td> + + <td class="ctr">82</td> + + <td class="ctr">76</td> + + <td class="ctr">26 18 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">34 55 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">200</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">23</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">75.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">74</td> + + <td class="ctr">71.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">74.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">27 13 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">34 5 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">NNW</td> + + <td class="ctr">80</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">24</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">71.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">70.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">71.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">74</td> + + <td class="ctr">28 16 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">33 16 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">89</td> + + <td class="ctr">27</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">25</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Suez at 6 p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">70</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">71.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">22</td> + + <td class="ctr">51</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">26</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Suez at 9 a.m. Arrived at + Ismailia<br /> + at 7.15 p.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">76.5</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">70</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">88</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">83.6</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">50</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">27</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Ismailia at 8 a.m. Arrived + at Port<br /> + Said at 5.30 p.m. left at 9.30 p.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">76.7</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">90</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td rowspan="4" + class="ctr">Working to<br /> + windward<br /> + under steam<br /> + and sail</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">50</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">28</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">66.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">64.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">66</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">174</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">WNW 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">29</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Alexandria at 4.30 + a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">117</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">WNW 9 to 7</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;"> + Average temperature for the month</td> + + <td class="ctr">82.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">78</td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td colspan="12" + style="height: 2em;"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <th colspan="12" + style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;"> + May 1877.</th> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">May</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Remarks</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Temp. of water</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Temp. of air</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Latitude</td> + + <td rowspan="3" + class="ctr">Longitude</td> + + <td colspan="4" + class="ctr">Since previous noon</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Noon</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">6 p.m.</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Noon</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">6 p.m.</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Course</td> + + <td colspan="2" + class="ctr">Distance</td> + + <td rowspan="2" + class="ctr">Wind and<br /> + weather</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">Steam</td> + + <td class="ctr">Sail </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">2</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="lpad5">Left Alexandria at 4.30 a.m</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + 68</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + 65.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + 70</td> + + <td class="ctr">F °<br /> + 64.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">° '<br /> + ...</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">WNW</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">28</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">2</td> + + <td valign="bottom" + class="ctr">Calm a.m.</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">3</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">64</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">64</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">65.2</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">64.3</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">32 30 N</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">28 39 E</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">N, 30° W</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">32</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">80</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">Fresh to<br /> + strong NW<br /> + winds</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">4</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">63.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">63.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">64.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">34 35 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">28 48 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 3° E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">146</td> + + <td class="ctr">NW 7</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">5</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">65</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">66</td> + + <td class="ctr">64.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">34 48 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">27 13 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">W, ½° S</td> + + <td class="ctr">63</td> + + <td class="ctr">61</td> + + <td class="ctr">NW 7&calms</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">6</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">63</td> + + <td class="ctr">62.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">66.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">34 54 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">23 11 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">W</td> + + <td class="ctr">125</td> + + <td class="ctr">75</td> + + <td class="ctr">ESE 7 & calms</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">7</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">63.6</td> + + <td class="ctr">63</td> + + <td class="ctr">64.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">63.6</td> + + <td class="ctr">35 51 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">19 48 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 82° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">46</td> + + <td class="ctr">130</td> + + <td class="ctr">ESE 2</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">8</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Malta at 6 p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">63</td> + + <td class="ctr">64.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">66.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">35 57 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">15 12 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">W</td> + + <td class="ctr">199</td> + + <td class="ctr">16</td> + + <td class="ctr">N 4 to 7</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">10</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Malta at 8.15 a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">63</td> + + <td class="ctr">67</td> + + <td class="ctr">66.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">Various</td> + + <td class="ctr">20</td> + + <td class="ctr">5</td> + + <td class="ctr">S 2 to 1</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">11</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">67</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">70</td> + + <td class="ctr">66</td> + + <td class="ctr">37 20 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">10 24 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">186</td> + + <td class="ctr">7</td> + + <td class="ctr">SE&calm</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">12</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">64.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">69</td> + + <td class="ctr">68.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">37 32 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">6 32 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">WNW</td> + + <td class="ctr">192</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">13</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">63</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">63</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">67</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">66</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">37 7 N</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">3 3 E</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">S, 82° E</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">173</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">SW by W 5<br /> + to 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">14</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">63.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">66.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">65</td> + + <td class="ctr">36 50 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">0 20 E</td> + + <td class="ctr">W, ½° S</td> + + <td class="ctr">163</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">15</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">62</td> + + <td class="ctr">62.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">66.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">66</td> + + <td class="ctr">36 31 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">3 43 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">W, ½° N</td> + + <td class="ctr">128</td> + + <td class="ctr">35</td> + + <td class="ctr">SE 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">16</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Gibraltar at 6:30 + a.m.<br /> + left at 7.30 p.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">48</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">26</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">17</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">67</td> + + <td class="ctr">67</td> + + <td class="ctr">68.2</td> + + <td class="ctr">69</td> + + <td class="ctr">36 27 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">7 58 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">Various</td> + + <td class="ctr">10</td> + + <td class="ctr">130</td> + + <td class="ctr">E 8; calm</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">18</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Lisbon at 6.30 + p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">63.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">38 27 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">9 26 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">144</td> + + <td class="ctr">6</td> + + <td class="ctr">NNE 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">19</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left Lisbon at 5 p.m., and + anchored<br /> + off Fort St. Julien at 9.15 p.m.</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">40</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">...</td> + + <td valign="top" + class="ctr">NNE 7</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">20</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Left anchorage at 5 a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">61.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">64</td> + + <td class="ctr">65</td> + + <td class="ctr">39 13 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">9 32 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">60</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">N 6</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">21</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">60.8</td> + + <td class="ctr">59</td> + + <td class="ctr">61</td> + + <td class="ctr">63.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">41 36 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">9 7 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">145</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">22</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">56.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">57</td> + + <td class="ctr">55.5</td> + + <td class="ctr">56.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">43 13 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">10 8 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 22° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">54</td> + + <td class="ctr">86</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 9</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">23</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">58</td> + + <td class="ctr">57</td> + + <td class="ctr">57</td> + + <td class="ctr">56</td> + + <td class="ctr">45 5 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">11 0 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">N, 16° W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">120</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 7 to 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">24</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">56</td> + + <td class="ctr">55</td> + + <td class="ctr">55</td> + + <td class="ctr">54.3</td> + + <td class="ctr">46 40 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">8 41 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">149</td> + + <td class="ctr">9</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 3 to 5</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">25</td> + + <td class="lpad5"> ... ...</td> + + <td class="ctr">55</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">54</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">48 42 N</td> + + <td class="ctr">6 5 W</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">160</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">NE 3 to 4</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">26</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Cowes at 1 p.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">230</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + + <td class="ctr">...</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">27</td> + + <td class="lpad5">Hastings 1.30 a.m.</td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;"> + Average temperature for the month</td> + + <td class="ctr">65°</td> + + <td class="ctr">65.1°</td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + + <td class="ctr"> </td> + </tr> + </table> + </div> + + <p> </p> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <p> </p> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 501<a name="Page_501" + id="Page_501"></a></span></p> + + <p class="ctr">When we finally sailed from Cowes, on July 6, + 1876, the list of persons on board the yacht was as + follows:—</p> + + <div class="ind30"> + <p>THOMAS BRASSEY, <span class="smcap">Esq.,</span> M.P. + (Owner)<br /> + <span class="smcap">Mrs. BRASSEY<br /> + THOMAS ALLNUTT BRASSEY<br /> + MABELLE ANNIE BRASSEY<br /> + MURIEL AGNES BRASSEY<br /> + MARIE ADELAIDE BRASSEY<br /> + Hon. A.Y. BINGHAM<br /> + F. HUBERT FREER, Esq.<br /> + Commander JAMES BROWN, R.N.<br /> + Captain SQUIRE T.S. LECKY, R.N.R.<br /> + HENRY PERCY POTTER, Esq.</span> (Surgeon)</p> + <hr style="width: 25%; margin-left: 0%;" /> + + <p>ISAIAH POWELL, Sailing Master<br /> + HENRY KINDRED, Boatswain<br /> + JOHN RIDGE TEMPLEMAN, Carpenter<br /> + CHARLES COOK, Signalman and Gunner<br /> + JAMES ALLEN, Coxswain of the Gig<br /> + JAMES WALFORD, Captain of the Hold<br /> + JOHN FALE, Coxswain of the Cutter<br /> + HENRY PARKER, Second Coxswain of the Gig<br /> + WILLIAM SEBBORN, A.B.<br /> + WALTER SEBBORN "<br /> + TURNER ENNEW "<br /> + WILLIAM MOULTON, A.B.<br /> + <span class="pagenum">Page 502<a name="Page_502" + id="Page_502"></a></span> ALBERT WISEMAN, "<br /> + JOHN GREEN, "<br /> + THOMAS TAYLOR "<br /> + FREDERICK BUTT "<br /> + HENRY TICHENER "<br /> + THOMAS POWELL, Forecastle Cook<br /> + WILLIAM COLE, Boy</p> + <hr style="width: 25%; margin-left: 0%;" /> + + <p>ROBERT ROWBOTTOM, Engineer<br /> + CHARLES McKECHNIE, 2nd ditto<br /> + THOMAS KIRKHAM, Leading Fireman<br /> + GEORGE BURREDGE, Fireman</p> + <hr style="width: 25%; margin-left: 0%;" /> + + <p>GEORGE LESLIE, Steward<br /> + WILLIAM AINSWORTH, Bedroom Steward<br /> + FREDERICK PARSONS, Saloon Steward<br /> + GEORGE BASSETT, 2nd ditto</p> + <hr style="width: 25%; margin-left: 0%;" /> + + <p>WILLIAM PRYDE, Cook<br /> + JOSEPH SOUTHGATE, Cook's Mate</p> + <hr style="width: 25%; margin-left: 0%;" /> + + <p>EMMA ADAMS, Nurse<br /> + HARRIET HOWE, Lady's Maid<br /> + MARY PHILLIPS, Stewardess</p> + </div> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 503<a name="Page_503" + id="Page_503"></a></span> The list of those who were + temporarily on board the yacht during the voyage comprised + the following persons:—</p> + + <p>ARRIVALS.<br /> + <br /> + CREW OF 'MONKSHAVEN' (15) came on board the 'Sunbeam' Sept. + 28.<br /> + ARTHUR TURNER, one of the crew, remained on board the 'Sunbeam + ' as an A.B.<br /> + JOHN SEBBORN, from U.S. 'Ashuelot,' Hongkong.<br /> + JOHN SHAW (Under-Cook), Hongkong.<br /> + ISAAC AYAK, Hongkong.<br /> + JOHN AHANG, Hongkong.<br /> + MAHOMET. Fireman, Galle.<br /> + ABRAHAM, Fireman. Galle.<br /> + TOM DOLLAR, Fireman, Galle.<br /> + <span class="smcap">Mr. and Mrs.</span> WOODROFFE, + Ismailia,<br /> + (Total, 24.)<br /> + <br /> + DEPARTURES.<br /> + <br /> + T. ALLNUTT BRASSEY, Rio.<br /> + CREW OF 'MONKSHAVEN' (14) placed on board the 'Ultimand', Oct. + 5.<br /> + <span class="smcap">Captain</span> LECKY, Buenos Ayres.<br /> + GEO. LESLIE, Ensenada.<br /> + <span class="smcap">Captain</span> BROWN, Honolulu.<br /> + WM. PRYDE, Honolulu.<br /> + JOHN FALE, Malacca.<br /> + MAHOMET, Fireman, Suez.<br /> + ABRAHAM, Fireman, Suez.<br /> + TOM DOLLAR, Fireman, Aden.<br /> + <span class="smcap">Mr. and Mrs.</span> WOODROFFE, Port + Said.<br /> + (Total, 25.)</p> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 504<a name="Page_504" + id="Page_504"></a></span> Note.—Many were the + preparations to be made before starting on our voyage; the + crew had to be selected, we had to decide whether all, any, + or none of the children should be taken, what friends we + should invite to accompany us, what stores and provisions we + should take, and to select from our little fleet of boats + those which seemed best suited for the various requirements + of the voyage. The whole number comprised</p> + + <div class="blockquot"> + <p>The 'Gleam,' lifeboat cutter;<br /> + The 'Glance,' large gig;<br /> + The 'Ray,' light gig;<br /> + The 'Trap' (to catch a sunbeam), steam launch;<br /> + The 'Mote,' dingy;<br /> + The 'Flash,' light outrigger.</p> + </div> + + <p>Of these the 'Trap' and the 'Ray' had to be left behind.</p> + <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 505<a name="Page_505" + id="Page_505"></a></span></p> + + <p class="iheading">LETTER</p> + + <p class="ctr">(From the <i>Times</i> of June 2, 1877).</p> + + <p>To the Editor of the 'Times.'—Sir,—Believing it + possible that some interest may attach to the voyage completed + on May 27 by the arrival of the 'Sunbeam' at Cowes, I venture + to offer to your readers a short narrative of our proceedings. + The expedition is in some respects unprecedented; a + circumnavigation of 35,400 miles has never before been made in + the short period of 46 weeks, from which must be deducted 112 + days of well-earned repose in harbour. We had, it is true, the + advantage of steam, without which such a performance would have + been an impossibility; but we travelled 20,517 miles under sail + alone, and the consumption of coal has not exceeded 350 tons. + The 'Sunbeam' sailed from Cowes on July 6, called at Torbay, + Madeira, Teneriffe, and the Cape Verde, crossed the Line on + August 8, and, carrying a favourable breeze in the south-east + trades, without even a momentary lull, a distance of 2,500 + miles, arrived at Rio Janeiro on August 17. Following the + coasts of South America, we visited Montevideo, Buenos Ayres, + and Ensenada, steamed through the Straits of Magellan and + Smyth's Channel, and reached Valparaiso on October 21.</p> + + <p>While on the coast of Patagonia it was our privilege to + rescue a crew of 15 hands from the bark 'Monkshaven,' laden + with an inflammable cargo of smelting coals, which had been on + fire six days when we most providentially descried her signals + of distress.</p> + + <p>On October 30 we commenced our long and lonely voyage of + 12,330 miles across the Pacific. We touched at Bow Island in + the Low Archipelago, Maitea and Tahiti in the Society Islands, + and Hawaii and Oahu in the Sandwich group. On January 21 we + sighted Assumption in the Ladrones, and on the 29th arrived at + Yokohama. While in Japan we were present at the opening of + <span class="pagenum">Page 506<a name="Page_506" + id="Page_506"></a></span>the railway from Osaka to Kioto by + the Mikado, and subsequently cruised in the Inland Sea in + severe winterly weather. At Simonoseki we found the people + much agitated by the recent outbreak of the Satsuma clan. On + February 19 we bade a reluctant farewell to Japan, and + following the most direct route to England, visited in + succession Hongkong, Canton, Macao, Singapore, Johore, + Malacca, Penang, Galle, Colombo, Aden, Alexandria, Malta, + Gibraltar, and Lisbon.</p> + + <p>Having given the principal dates, the story of the voyage + will be most rapidly completed by entering our successive + passages in a tabular statement:</p> + + <table cellspacing="0" + cellpadding="5" + border="1" + summary="Miles under Steam and Sail"> + <tr> + <td rowspan="2"> </td> + + <td colspan="3" + class="ctr">Miles</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">Steam</td> + + <td class="ctr">Sail</td> + + <td class="ctr">Total</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>Thames and English Channel</td> + + <td class="right">193</td> + + <td class="right">205</td> + + <td class="right">398</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>Torbay to Madeira</td> + + <td class="right">353</td> + + <td class="right">874</td> + + <td class="right">1,227</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>Madeira to Orotava (Teneriffe)</td> + + <td class="right">164</td> + + <td class="right">72</td> + + <td class="right">236</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>Orotava to Tarafal Bay (San Antonio, Cape + Verde)</td> + + <td class="right">35</td> + + <td class="right">886</td> + + <td class="right">921</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>Tarafal Bay to Rio Janeiro</td> + + <td class="right">689</td> + + <td class="right">2,647</td> + + <td class="right">3,336</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>Rio to Monte Video and Buenos Ayres</td> + + <td class="right">509</td> + + <td class="right">712</td> + + <td class="right">1,221</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>Buenos Ayres to Possession Bay (Straits of + Magellan)</td> + + <td class="right">816</td> + + <td class="right">524</td> + + <td class="right">1,340</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>In Straits of Magellan and Smyth's Channel</td> + + <td class="right">565</td> + + <td class="right">—</td> + + <td class="right">565</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>To Lota and Valparaiso</td> + + <td class="right">634</td> + + <td class="right">500</td> + + <td class="right">1,134</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>Valparaiso to Yokohama, calling at Hao in the + Paumotu<br /> + Group, Maitea and Tahiti in the Society Islands, + and<br /> + Hawaii and Oahu in the Sandwich Group</td> + + <td class="right">2,108</td> + + <td class="right">10,225</td> + + <td class="right">12,333</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>Yokohama to Kobe and Simonoseki, through the Inland + Sea</td> + + <td class="right">653</td> + + <td class="right">—</td> + + <td class="right">653</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>Simonoseki to Hongkong</td> + + <td class="right">395</td> + + <td class="right">1,015</td> + + <td class="right">1,410</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>Hongkong to Singapore</td> + + <td class="right">312</td> + + <td class="right">1,251</td> + + <td class="right">1,563</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>Singapore to Point de Galle, calling at the Straits + Settlements</td> + + <td class="right">1,668</td> + + <td class="right">—</td> + + <td class="right">1,668</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>Galle to Colombo and Aden</td> + + <td class="right">2,202</td> + + <td class="right">—</td> + + <td class="right">2,202</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>Aden to Suez</td> + + <td class="right">807</td> + + <td class="right">551</td> + + <td class="right">1,358</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>Suez to Alexandria</td> + + <td class="right">436</td> + + <td class="right">—</td> + + <td class="right">436</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td>Alexandria to Cowes, touching at Malta, Gibraltar, + and Lisbon</td> + + <td class="right">2,440</td> + + <td class="right">934</td> + + <td class="right">3,374</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="ctr">Total</td> + + <td class="right">14,979</td> + + <td class="right">20,396</td> + + <td class="right">35,375</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p> <br /> + Having sketched the voyage in outline, the following details + may not be devoid of interest to readers with nautical + tastes.</p> + + <p>Every yachtsman should be a lover of sailing. In the cruise + of the 'Sunbeam,' although expedition was an essential + consideration, steam has been used almost exclusively in calms + or in narrow waters, or when, as it has often happened, we have + sailed at sunset <span class="pagenum">Page + 507<a name="Page_507" + id="Page_507"></a></span>after a hard day's work on board, + intending to make an offing during the night and set sails + in the morning.</p> + + <p>Of the total distance of 15,000 knots under steam, 12,000 + were traversed under those special circumstances which seem to + justify even a yachtsman in availing himself of the unromantic + but invaluable engine.</p> + + <p>The best run under steam alone was 230 knots, and the most + successful continuous performance was on the passage from + Penang to Galle, in the week ending April 15, when the + 'Sunbeam' steamed 1,451 knots, with a daily consumption of + 4-¼ tons of coal.</p> + + <p>The best runs under sail from noon to noon were 298 and 299 + knots respectively. The first was on the passage from Honolulu + to Yokohama, sailing along the 16th parallel of north latitude, + and between 163 deg. and 168 deg. 15 min. east. The second was + in the Formosa Channel.</p> + + <p>The highest speed ever attained under sail was 15 knots in a + squall in the North Pacific.</p> + + <p>On 28 days the distance under sail alone has exceeded, and + often considerably exceeded, 200 knots.</p> + + <p>The best consecutive runs under sail only were:—</p> + + <p>I. Week ending August 13, South Atlantic. In the south-east + trades, wind a-beam, force 5—1,456 knots.</p> + + <p>II. Week ending November 19, South Pacific, south-east + trades, wind aft, force 5—1,360 knots.</p> + + <p>III. Four days, January 15 to 18, North Pacific, north-east + trades, wind on the quarter, force 5 to 9—1,027 knots. + The average speed in this case was 107 knots an hour.</p> + + <p>The following were the average speeds of the longer + passages:—</p> + + <table cellspacing="0" + cellpadding="6" + border="1" + summary="Average Speeds of the Sunbeam"> + <tr> + <td colspan="2" + rowspan="2"> </td> + + <td align="center">Days<br /> + At<br /> + Sea</td> + + <td align="center">Total<br /> + Distance</td> + + <td align="center">Distance<br /> + Under<br /> + Steam</td> + + <td align="center">Daily<br /> + Average</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> </td> + + <td align="center">Miles</td> + + <td align="center">Miles</td> + + <td align="center">Miles</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> 1 </td> + + <td>Cape Verde to Rio</td> + + <td align="center">18</td> + + <td align="center"> 3,336</td> + + <td align="center"> 689</td> + + <td align="center">185</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> 2 </td> + + <td>Valpraiso and Yokahama</td> + + <td align="center">72</td> + + <td align="center">12,333</td> + + <td align="center">2,108</td> + + <td align="center">171</td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td> 3 </td> + + <td>Simonoseki and Aden</td> + + <td align="center">37</td> + + <td align="center"> 6,391</td> + + <td align="center">4,577</td> + + <td align="center">187</td> + </tr> + </table> + + <p><span class="pagenum">Page 508<a name="Page_508" + id="Page_508"></a></span></p> + + <p> <br /> + The vessel which has carried us so rapidly and safely round the + globe claims a brief description. She was designed by Mr. St. + Clare Byrne, of Liverpool, and may be technically defined as a + composite three-masted topsail-yard screw schooner. The + engines, by Messrs. Laird, are of 70 nominal or 350 indicated + horse-power, and developed a speed of 10.13 knots on the + measured mile. The bunkers contain 80 tons of coal. The average + daily consumption is four tons, and the speed eight knots in + fine weather. The principal dimensions of the hull + are;—Length for tonnage, 157 ft.; beam, extreme, 27 ft. 6 + in.; displacement tonnage, 531 tons; area of midship section, + 202 square feet.</p> + + <p>With an addition of 20 ft. to the length, and more engine + power, the 'Sunbeam' presents a type which might be found + efficient for naval services in distant waters, where good + sailing qualities are essential, and large ships are not + required.</p> + + <p>On looking back, and contrasting the anticipated + difficulties with the actual experiences of the voyage, the + ease and certainty with which every passage has been made are + truly surprising. Our track has been for the most part within + the Tropics. The storms off the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Horn + have been avoided in the inland passages of the Straits of + Magellan and the Suez Canal. We have encountered no continuous + stormy weather, except during the four days preceding our + arrival at Yokohama. We have suffered discomfort from heat and + detention in calms, but storms have disturbed us seldom, and + they have not lasted long.</p> + + <p>Our experience of gales include a north-east gale off Cape + Finisterre, on the outward voyage; a northerly gale between Rio + and the River Plate, a westerly gale off the east coast of + Patagonia, short but severe gales on each of the four days + preceding our arrival at Yokohama, a severe gale from the + north-west in the Inland Sea, a north-east gale in the Formosa + Channel, a northerly gale in the Straits of Jubal, a westerly + gale off Port Said, and an easterly gale on the south coast of + Candia. On the passage homewards from Gibraltar we met strong + northerly winds on the coast of Portugal, and a north-east gale + off Cape Finisterre.</p> + + <p>The navigation has presented few difficulties. All the + coasts <span class="pagenum">Page 509<a name="Page_509" + id="Page_509"></a></span>that we have visited have been + surveyed. Lighthouses are now as numerous and efficient on + the coasts of China and Japan as on the shores of Europe. + Such is the perfection of the modern chronometer, that lunar + observations, the only difficult work in ocean navigation, + are no longer necessary; and the wind charts published by + the Admiralty supply to the amateur navigator accumulated + information and valuable hints for every stage of his + voyage.</p> + + <p>How infinitely easy is the task of the modern + circumnavigator compared with the hazardous explorations of + Magelhaens and Captain Cook, when the chronometer was an + instrument of rude and untrustworthy quality, when there were + no charts, and the roaring of the breakers in the dead of night + was the mariner's first warning that a coral reef was near!</p> + + <p>Our comprehensive and varied cruise has strengthened my + former convictions that the disasters due to negligence bear a + large proportion to the number of inevitable losses. Every + coast is dangerous to the careless commander; but there are no + frequented seas where, with the exercise of caution and + reasonable skill, the dangers cannot be avoided. These remarks + do not, of course, apply to cases of disaster from stress of + weather. In fogs there must be delay, though not necessarily + danger.</p> + + <p>In these days of lamentation over the degeneracy of the + British seaman, my experience may be accepted as a contribution + to the mass of evidence on this vexed question. I have not been + surrounded by such smart seamen as can only be found on a + man-of-war, but I have no ground for general or serious + complaint. Many of my crew have done their duty most + faithfully. In emergencies everybody has risen to the occasion, + and has done best when his skill or endurance was most severely + tried—</p> + + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span>'My mariners,<br /></span> <span>Souls that have + toiled and wrought and thought with me,<br /></span> + <span>That ever with a frolic welcome took<br /></span> + <span>The thunder and the sunshine.'<br /></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p>It is always in stormy weather that the good qualities of + the British seaman are displayed to the greatest advantage. The + <span class="pagenum">Page 510<a name="Page_510" + id="Page_510"></a></span>difficulty is to keep up his + interest and energies in long intervals of fine weather, + when nothing occurs to rouse him to an effort, and the + faculties of the seaman before the mast, no less than those + of his officer, are benumbed by the monotony and isolation + from mankind, which are the gravest drawbacks of a sailor's + life. It is in these dull moments that men are tempted to + drink and quarrel, that officers become tyrannical, and + their crews insubordinate, or even mutinous. Lest it should + be thought that my impressions of the average sailor are + derived from an exceptional crew or picked men, I have only + to add that the manning of the 'Sunbeam' was a family job. + The sailing master was related by blood or marriage to the + majority of his subordinates—fishermen from the coast + of Essex, who had received their early training among the + banks and shoals at the mouth of the Thames.</p> + + <p>In this connection I tender my sincere tribute of praise to + the officers of the Navy for their success in maintaining the + efficiency and spirit of their crews through long commissions + on foreign stations, much time being necessarily spent in + harbour, in many cases in the most enervating climates. The + discipline of the service seems to be admirable, and the seamen + are reconciled to it by tradition, by early training, and + perhaps by an instinctive perception of its necessity.</p> + + <p>I am equally bound to commend the efficiency of our consular + service in the remotest outposts of civilisation which we have + visited; and evidences of good colonial administration are + abundantly manifest in Hongkong, Singapore, Penang, Ceylon, and + Aden, in the prosperity and contentment of the people.</p> + + <p>It is scarcely necessary to observe, in conclusion, that + experiences may be gathered in a voyage of circumnavigation + which are not to be gleaned from Blue-books or from shorter + cruises in European waters. A more vivid impression is formed + of the sailor's daily life, of his privations at sea, and his + temptations on shore. The services required of the Navy are + more clearly appreciated after a visit to distant foreign + stations.</p> + + <p>Such a voyage is, indeed, a serious effort. It demands many + <span class="pagenum">Page 511<a name="Page_511" + id="Page_511"></a></span> laborious days and anxious nights + of watching. For my safe return to 'those pale, those + white-faced shores,' so welcome to the homeward-bound, + accompanied, happily, by the adventurous little family who + have taken part in the expedition, I am truly thankful.</p> + + <p>I am, Sir, your obedient servant,</p> + + <p>THOMAS BRASSEY.</p> + + <p>COWES</p> + +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE IN THE 'SUNBEAM'***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 14836-h.txt or 14836-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/4/8/3/14836">https://www.gutenberg.org/1/4/8/3/14836</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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