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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Voyage in the 'Sunbeam', by Annie Allnut
+Brassey
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: A Voyage in the 'Sunbeam'
+
+Author: Annie Allnut Brassey
+
+Release Date: January 31, 2005  [eBook #14836]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE IN THE 'SUNBEAM'***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Suzanne Shell, Ronald Holder, and the Project Gutenberg
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 14836-h.htm or 14836-h.zip:
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/4/8/3/14836/14836-h/14836-h.htm)
+      or
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/4/8/3/14836/14836-h.zip)
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+   1. The first page of Chapter VIII: the last line of text was
+      partially missing, and a best guess was made on a few words.
+
+   2. Page 72: Typograpical error, 'nndertaking' changed to
+      'undertaking'.
+
+   3. Page 55, paragraph starting "Santa Anna", corrected 'past'
+      to 'part'.
+
+
+
+
+
+A VOYAGE IN THE 'SUNBEAM'
+
+Our Home on fhe Ocean for Eleven Months
+
+by
+
+MRS. BRASSEY
+
+Illustrated
+
+Chicago:
+Belford, Clarke & Co.
+
+1881
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: CAPE BRASSEY: SMYTHS SOUND]
+
+
+
+
+DEDICATION
+
+To the friends in many climes and countries, of the white and coloured
+races, and of every grade in society, who have made our year of travel
+a year of happiness, these pages are dedicated by the ever grateful
+Author
+
+[Illustration: Portrait of the Author]
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+This volume needs no elaborate preface. A general sketch of the voyage
+which it describes was published in the 'Times' immediately after our
+return to England. That letter is reprinted here as a convenient
+summary of the 'Sunbeam's' performances. But these prefatory lines
+would indeed be incomplete if they did not contain a well-deserved
+tribute to the industry and accuracy of the author. The voyage would
+not have been undertaken, and assuredly it would never have been
+completed, without the impulse derived from her perseverance and
+determination. Still less would any sufficient record of the scenes
+and experiences of the long voyage have been preserved had it not been
+for her painstaking desire not only to see everything thoroughly, but
+to record her impressions faithfully and accurately. The practised
+skill of a professional writer cannot reasonably be expected in these
+simple pages, but their object will have been attained if they are the
+means of enabling more home-keeping friends to share in the keen
+enjoyment of the scenes and adventures they describe.
+
+THOMAS BRASSEY
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+CHAPTER
+
+     I. FAREWELL TO OLD ENGLAND
+
+    II. MADEIRA, TENERIFFE, AND CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS
+
+   III. PALMA TO RIO DE JANEIRO
+
+    IV. RIO DE JANEIRO
+
+     V. THE RIVER PLATE
+
+    VI. LIFE ON THE PAMPAS
+
+   VII. MORE ABOUT THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC
+
+  VIII. RIVER PLATE TO SANDY POINT, STRAITS OF MAGELLAN
+
+    IX. SANDY POINT TO LOTA BAY
+
+     X. CHILI
+
+    XI. SANTIAGO AND VALPARAISO
+
+   XII. VALPARAISO TO TAHITI
+
+  XIII. THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS
+
+   XIV. AT TAHITI
+
+    XV. TAHITI TO SANDWICH ISLANDS--KILAUEA BY DAY AND BY NIGHT
+
+   XVI. HAWAIIAN SPORTS
+
+  XVII. HONOLULU--DEPARTURE FOR JAPAN
+
+ XVIII. HONOLULU TO YOKOHAMA
+
+   XIX. YOKOHAMA
+
+    XX. KIOTO, LATE MIACO
+
+   XXI. THE INLAND SEA
+
+  XXII. TO CANTON UP THE PEARL RIVER
+
+ XXIII. FROM MACAO TO SINGAPORE
+
+  XXIV. SINGAPORE
+
+   XXV. CEYLON
+
+  XXVI. TO ADEN
+
+ XXVII. VIA SUEZ CANAL
+
+XXVIII. 'HOME'
+
+APPENDIX
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+WOODCUTS IN TEXT.
+
+CAPE BRASSEY: SMYTH'S SOUND
+
+PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR
+
+SUNSET ON SOUTHAMPTON WATER
+
+NEARLY OVERBOARD
+
+THE DERELICT 'CAROLINA' LADEN WITH PORT WINE
+
+OUR FIRST VIEW OF MADEIRA
+
+MADEIRA FISH-CARRIER
+
+A COZY CORNER
+
+A PALM-TREE IN A GARDEN, OROTAVA, TENERIFFE
+
+TARAFAL BAY, ST. ANTONIO
+
+FATHER NEPTUNE
+
+HIS DOCTOR (CROSSING THE LINE)
+
+LULU AND HER PUPPIES
+
+VESPERS
+
+BOTAFOGO BAY
+
+THE SLAVE VILLAGE, FAZENDA, SANTA ANNA
+
+THE THREE NAVIGATORS
+
+PRAIRIE DOGS AND OWLS
+
+DEVIL'S HORNS
+
+LA CALERA
+
+INDIANS AT AZUL
+
+LASSOING HORSES
+
+'MONKSHAVEN' ON FIRE
+
+SHIPWRECKED CREW COMING ON BOARD
+
+FUEGIAN WEAPONS
+
+FUEGIAN BOW AND ARROWS
+
+PIN FOR FASTENING CLOAK, MADE FROM A DOLLAR BEATEN OUT
+
+FUEGIAN BOAT AND OARS
+
+BARTERING WITH FUEGIANS
+
+THORNTON PEAKS
+
+GLACIERS, SNOWY SOUND
+
+UNFIT BAY
+
+TWO-PEAKED MOUNTAIN
+
+INDIAN REACH
+
+CATCHING CAPE-PIGEONS IN THE GULF OF PEÑAS
+
+CHILIANS WAITING FOR THE TRAIN
+
+A FELLOW PASSENGER
+
+BATHS OF CAUQUENES
+
+UP THE VALLEY TOWARDS THE ANDES
+
+CACTI OF THE CORDILLERA
+
+HUASSO HUTS
+
+HUASSO OF CHILI
+
+MORNING MASS AT SANTIAGO
+
+WHAT MAKES HORSES GO IN CHILI
+
+JUVENILE SCRUBBERS
+
+CONVERSATION AT SEA
+
+INSCRIPTION FROM EASTER ISLAND
+
+TATAKOTOROA OR CLARKE ISLAND
+
+GOING UP THE MAST IN A CHAIR
+
+CHILDREN LOOKING UP
+
+OUR FIRST LANDING IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC, HAO OR BOW ISLAND
+
+MAITEA
+
+MAITEAN BOATMAN
+
+QUARANTINE ISLAND, PAPEETE
+
+UNDER THE TREES, PAPEETE
+
+CHÆTODON TRICOLOR
+
+CHÆTODON PLAGMANCE
+
+WATERFALL AT FAATAUA
+
+A TAHITIAN LADY
+
+TROPIC FEATHERS
+
+CHÆTODON BESANTII
+
+TATTOO IN THE TROPICS
+
+FEATHER NECKLACE
+
+WAR NECKLACE
+
+ANCIENT WAR MASKS AND COSTUMES FROM THE MUSEUM AT HONOLULU
+
+CHALCEDON IMPERATOR
+
+FEATHERED CLOAK AND HELMETS
+
+THE PALI-OAHU
+
+ZEUS CILIARIS
+
+AMATEUR NAVIGATION
+
+LITTLE REDCAP
+
+JAPANESE BOATS
+
+FUJIYAMA, JAPAN
+
+A DRAG ACROSS THE SAND IN A JINRIKISHA
+
+INOSHIMA BY A JAPANESE ARTIST
+
+JAPANESE BOATMAN
+
+FACSIMILE OF OUR LUNCHEON BILL
+
+A FAMILY GROUP
+
+WAYSIDE TRAVELLERS
+
+ARRIMA. THE VILLAGE OF BAMBOO BASKET WORK
+
+YOKEN SAN OR SACRED MOUNTAIN, INLAND SEA
+
+HURUSIMA, INLAND SEA
+
+HOW WE WERE BOARDED BY CHINESE AND DISPERSED THEM
+
+CHINESE VISITING CARDS
+
+PEARL RIVER
+
+BOGUE FORTS
+
+CHINESE PAGODA AND BOATS
+
+THE FRENCH CONSULATE, CANTON
+
+CHINESE FOOT AND BOOT
+
+MAHARAJAH OF JOHORE'S HOUSE
+
+THE PET MANIS
+
+MALACCA
+
+HOW THE JOURNAL WAS WRITTEN
+
+PEACOCK MOUNTAIN, CEYLON
+
+SOUMALI INDIAN, ADEN
+
+STRAITS OF BAB-EL-MANDEB
+
+BEATING UP THE RED SEA
+
+HOMEWARD BOUND
+
+FALDETTA, MALTA
+
+ARMOURY IN THE GOVERNOR'S PALACE, VALETTA
+
+TANGIER
+
+VASCO DA GAMA
+
+BELEM CLOISTER GARDENS
+
+OUR WELCOME BACK OFF HASTINGS
+
+HOME AT LAST
+
+
+
+
+NOTE.
+
+I have to thank Mr. W. Simpson, author of 'Meeting the Sun,' for the
+passages given on pages 341 to 343 referring to the Japanese temples
+and their priesthood.
+
+The vessel which has carried us so rapidly and safely round the globe
+claims a brief description. She was designed by Mr. St. Clare Byrne,
+of Liverpool and may be technically defined as a screw composite
+three-masted topsail-yard schooner. The engines, by Messrs. Laird, are
+of 70 nominal or 350 indicated horse-power, and developed a speed of
+10.13 knots at the measured mile. The bunkers contain 80 tons of coal.
+The average daily consumption is 4 tons, and the speed 8 knots in fine
+weather. The principal dimensions of the hull are--length for tonnage,
+157 ft.; beam extreme, 27 ft. 6 in.; displacement tonnage, 531 tons;
+area of midship section, 202 sq. ft.
+
+A. B.
+
+[Illustration: Sunset on Southampton Water.]
+
+
+
+
+A VOYAGE IN THE 'SUNBEAM'.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+FAREWELL TO OLD ENGLAND.
+
+
+    _Masts, spires, and strand receding on the right,_
+    _The glorious main expanding on the bow._
+
+At noon on July 1st, 1876, we said good-bye to the friends who had
+come to Chatham to see us off, and began the first stage of our voyage
+by steaming down to Sheerness, saluting our old friend the 'Duncan,'
+Admiral Chads's flagship, and passing through a perfect fleet of craft
+of all kinds. There was a fresh contrary wind, and the Channel was as
+disagreeable as usual under the circumstances. Next afternoon we were
+off Hastings, where we had intended to stop and dine and meet some
+friends; but, unfortunately the weather was not sufficiently
+favourable for us to land; so we made a long tack out to sea, and, in
+the evening, found ourselves once more near the land, off Beachy Head.
+While becalmed off Brighton, we all--children included--availed
+ourselves of the opportunity to go overboard and have our first swim,
+which we thoroughly enjoyed. We had steam up before ten, and again
+proceeded on our course. It was very hot, and sitting under the awning
+turned out to be the pleasantest occupation. The contrast between the
+weather of the two following days was very great, and afforded a
+forcible illustration of the uncertainties, perhaps the fascinations,
+of yachting. We steamed quietly on, past the 'Owers' lightship, and
+the crowds of yachts at Ryde, and dropped anchor off Cowes at six
+o'clock.
+
+On the morning of the 6th a light breeze sprang up, and enabled us to
+go through the Needles with sails up and funnel down, a performance of
+which all on board felt very proud, as many yachtsmen had pronounced
+it to be an impossibility for our vessel to beat out in so light a
+breeze.
+
+We were forty-three on board, all told, as will be seen by reference
+to the list I have given. We had with us, besides, two dogs, three
+birds, and a charming Persian kitten belonging to the baby. The kitten
+soon disappeared, and it was feared she must have gone overboard down
+the hawse pipe. There was a faint hope, however, that she might have
+been packed away with the new sails, which had been stowed in a great
+hurry the day before. Unhappily she was never found again, and the
+children were inconsolable until they discovered, at Torquay, an
+effective substitute for 'Lily.'
+
+The Channel was tolerably smooth outside the Isle of Wight, and during
+the afternoon we were able to hold on our course direct for Ushant.
+After midnight, however, the wind worked gradually round to the
+W.S.W., and blew directly in our teeth. A terribly heavy sea got up;
+and, as we were making little or no progress, it was decided to put
+in to Torquay or Dartmouth, and there await a change. We anchored in
+Torbay, about half a mile from the pier, at 8.30 a.m., and soon
+afterwards went ashore to bathe. We found, however, that the high
+rocks which surround the snug little bathing cove made the water as
+cold as ice.
+
+Nothing more having been heard of our poor little kitten, we can only
+conclude that she has gone overboard. Just as we were leaving the
+railway-station, however, we saw a small white kitten with a blue
+ribbon round its neck; and all the children at once exclaimed,
+'There's our Lily!' We made inquiries, and found that it belonged to
+the young woman at the refreshment room, who, after some demur,
+allowed us to take it away with us, in compliance with Muriel's
+anxious wish, expressed on her face.
+
+About ten o'clock we got under way, but lay-to for breakfast. We then
+had a regular beat of it down Channel--everybody being ill. We formed
+a melancholy-looking little row down the lee side of the ship, though
+I must say that we were quite as cheery as might have been expected
+under the circumstances. It was bright and sunny overhead, which made
+things more bearable.
+
+_Sunday, July 9th_.--A calm at 2 a.m. Orders were given to get up
+steam; but the new coals from Chatham were slow to light, though good
+to keep up steam when once fairly kindled. For four long hours,
+therefore, we lolloped about in the trough of a heavy sea, the sails
+flapping as the vessel rolled. By the time the steam was up so was the
+breeze--a contrary one, of course. We accordingly steamed and sailed
+all day, taking more water on board, though not really in any great
+quantity, than I had ever seen the good ship do before. She carries a
+larger supply of coal and other stores than usual, and no doubt the
+square yards on the foremast make her pitch more heavily. We were all
+very sorry for ourselves, and 'church,' postponed from eleven until
+four o'clock, brought together but a small congregation.
+
+On the 8th we were fairly away from Old England, and on the next day
+off Ushant, which we rounded at about 4.30 p.m., at the distance of a
+mile and a half; the sea was tremendous, the waves breaking in columns
+of spray against the sharp needle-like rocks that form the point of
+the island. The only excitement during the day was afforded by the
+visit of a pilot-boat (without any fish on board), whose owner was
+very anxious to take us into Brest, 'safe from the coming storm,'
+which he predicted. In addition to our other discomforts, it now
+rained hard; and by half-past six I think nearly all our party had
+made up their minds that bed would be the most comfortable place.
+
+Two days later we sailed into lovely, bright, warm, sunny weather,
+with a strong north-easterly breeze, a following sea, and an
+occasional long roll from the westward. But as the sun rose, the wind
+increased, and we got rather knocked about by the sea. A good deal of
+water came on board, and it was impossible to sit anywhere in comfort,
+unless lashed or firmly wedged in. We were, however, going ten knots
+through the water, on our course, under our new square head canvas;
+and this fact made up for a good deal of discomfort.
+
+The thirty extra tons of spare sails, spars, and provisions, the
+fifteen tons of water, and the eighty-four tons of coal, made a great
+difference in our buoyancy, and the sea came popping in and out at the
+most unexpected places; much to the delight of the children, who, with
+bare feet and legs, and armed with mops and sponges, waged mimic war
+against the intruder and each other, singing and dancing to their
+hearts' content. This amusement was occasionally interrupted by a
+heavier roll than usual, sending them all into the lee scuppers,
+sousing them from head to foot, and necessitating a thorough change of
+clothing, despite their urgent protest that sea-water never hurt
+anybody.
+
+After our five o'clock dinner, however, we very nearly met with a
+most serious accident. We were all sitting or standing about the stern
+of the vessel, admiring the magnificent dark blue billows following
+us, with their curling white crests, mountains high. Each wave, as it
+approached, appeared as if it must overwhelm us, instead of which, it
+rushed grandly by, rolling and shaking us from stem to stern, and
+sending fountains of spray on board.
+
+[Illustration: Nearly Overboard.]
+
+Tom was looking at the stern compass, Allnutt being close to him. Mr.
+Bingham and Mr. Freer were smoking, half-way between the quarter-deck
+and the after-companion, where Captain Brown, Dr. Potter, Muriel, and
+I, were standing. Captain Lecky, seated on a large coil of rope,
+placed on the box of the rudder, was spinning Mabelle a yarn. A new
+hand was steering, and just at the moment when an unusually big wave
+overtook us, he unfortunately allowed the vessel to broach-to a
+little. In a second the sea came pouring over the stern, above
+Allnutt's head. The boy was nearly washed overboard, but he managed to
+catch hold of the rail, and, with great presence of mind, stuck his
+knees into the bulwarks. Kindred, our boatswain, seeing his danger,
+rushed forward to save him, but was knocked down by the return wave,
+from which he emerged gasping. The coil of rope, on which Captain
+Lecky and Mabelle were seated, was completely floated by the sea.
+Providentially, however, he had taken a double turn round his wrist
+with a reefing point, and, throwing his other arm round Mabelle, held
+on like grim death; otherwise nothing could have saved them. She was
+perfectly self-possessed, and only said quietly, 'Hold on, Captain
+Lecky, hold on!' to which he replied, 'All right.' I asked her
+afterwards if she thought she was going overboard, and she answered,
+'I did not _think_ at all, mamma, but felt sure we were gone.' Captain
+Lecky, being accustomed to very large ships, had not in the least
+realised how near we were to the water in our little vessel, and was
+proportionately taken by surprise. All the rest of the party were
+drenched, with the exception of Muriel, whom Captain Brown held high
+above the water in his arms, and who lost no time in remarking, in the
+midst of the general confusion, 'I'm not at all wet, I'm not.'
+Happily, the children don't know what fear is. The maids, however,
+were very frightened, as some of the sea had got down into the
+nursery, and the skylights had to be screwed down. Our studding-sail
+boom, too, broke with a loud crack when the ship broached-to, and the
+jaws of the fore-boom gave way.
+
+Soon after this adventure we all went to bed, full of thankfulness
+that it had ended as well as it did; but, alas, not, so far as I was
+concerned, to rest in peace. In about two hours I was awakened by a
+tremendous weight of water suddenly descending upon me and flooding
+the bed. I immediately sprang out, only to find myself in another pool
+on the floor. It was pitch dark, and I could not think what had
+happened; so I rushed on deck, and found that, the weather having
+moderated a little, some kind sailor, knowing my love of fresh air,
+had opened the skylight rather too soon; and one of the angry waves
+had popped on board, deluging the cabin.
+
+I got a light, and proceeded to mop up, as best I could, and then
+endeavoured to find a dry place to sleep in. This, however, was no
+easy task, for my own bed was drenched, and every other berth
+occupied. The deck, too, was ankle-deep in water, as I found when I
+tried to get across to the deck-house sofa. At last I lay down on the
+floor, wrapped up in my ulster, and wedged between the foot stanchion
+of our swing bed and the wardrobe athwart-ship; so that as the yacht
+rolled heavily, my feet were often higher than my head. Consequently,
+what sleep I snatched turned into nightmare, of which the fixed idea
+was a broken head from the three hundredweight of lead at the bottom
+of our bed, swinging wildly from side to side and up and down, as the
+vessel rolled and pitched, suggesting all manner of accidents. When
+morning came at last, the weather cleared a good deal, though the
+breeze continued. All hands were soon busily employed in repairing
+damages; and very picturesque the deck and rigging of the 'Sunbeam'
+looked, with the various groups of men, occupied upon the ropes,
+spars, and sails. Towards evening the wind fell light, and we had to
+get up steam. The night was the first really warm one we had enjoyed,
+and the stars shone out brightly. The sea, which had been of a lovely
+blue colour during the day, showed a slight phosphorescence after
+dark.
+
+_Thursday, July 13th_.--When I went on deck, at half-past six, I found
+a grey, steamy, calm morning, promising a very hot day, without wind.
+
+About 10.30 a.m., the cry of 'Sail on the port beam!' caused general
+excitement, and in a few minutes every telescope and glass in the ship
+had been brought to bear upon the object which attracted our
+attention, and which was soon pronounced to be a wreck. Orders were
+given to starboard the helm, and to steer direct for the vessel; and
+many were the conjectures hazarded, and the questions asked of the
+fortunate holders of glasses. 'What is she?' 'Is there any one on
+board?' 'Where does she come from?' 'Can you read her name?' 'Does she
+look as if she had been long abandoned?' Soon we were near enough to
+send a boat's crew on board, whilst we watched their movements
+anxiously from the bridge. We could now read her name--the
+'Carolina'--surmounted by a gorgeous yellow decoration on her stern.
+She was of between two and three hundred tons burden, and was painted
+a light blue, with a red streak. Beneath her white bowsprit the gaudy
+image of a woman served as a figure-head. The two masts had been
+snapped short off about three feet from the deck, and the bulwarks
+were gone, only the covering board and stanchions remaining, so that
+each wave washed over and through her. The roof and supports of the
+deck-house and the companions were still left standing, but the sides
+had disappeared, and the ship's deck was burst up in such a manner as
+to remind one of a quail's back.
+
+We saw the men on board poking about, apparently very pleased with
+what they had found; and soon our boat returned to the yacht for some
+breakers,[1] as the 'Carolina' had been laden with port wine and cork,
+and the men wished to bring some of the former on board. I changed my
+dress, and, putting on my sea boots, started for the wreck.
+
+[Footnote 1: Small casks, used for carrying water in boats, frequently
+spelt _barricos_, evidently from the time of the old Spanish
+navigators.]
+
+[Illustration: The Derelict 'Carolina' laden with Port Wine]
+
+We found the men rather excited over their discovery. The wine must
+have been _very_ new and _very_ strong, for the smell from it, as it
+slopped about all over the deck, was almost enough to intoxicate
+anybody. One pipe had already been emptied into the breakers and
+barrels, and great efforts were made to get some of the casks out
+whole; but this was found to be impossible, without devoting more time
+to the operation than we chose to spare. The men managed to remove
+three half-empty casks with their heads stove in, which they threw
+overboard, but the full ones would have required special appliances to
+raise them through the hatches. It proved exceedingly difficult to get
+at the wine, which was stowed underneath the cork, and there was also
+a quantity of cabin bulkheads and fittings floating about, under the
+influence of the long swell of the Atlantic. It was a curious sight,
+standing on the roof of the deck-house, to look into the hold, full of
+floating bales of cork, barrels, and pieces of wood, and to watch the
+sea surging up in every direction, through and over the deck, which
+was level with the water's edge. I saw an excellent modern iron
+cooking-stove washing about from side to side; but almost every other
+moveable article, including spars and ropes, had apparently been
+removed by previous boarders.
+
+It would have delayed us too long to tow the vessel into the nearest
+port, 375 miles distant, or we might have claimed the salvage money,
+estimated by the experts at 1,500_l_. She was too low in the water for
+it to be possible for us, with our limited appliances, to blow her up;
+so we were obliged to leave her floating about as a derelict, a
+fertile source of danger to all ships crossing her track. With her
+buoyant cargo, and with the trade winds slowly wafting her to smoother
+seas, it may probably be some years before she breaks up. I only hope
+that no good ship may run full speed on to her, some dark night, for
+the 'Carolina' would prove almost as formidable an obstacle as a
+sunken rock.
+
+Tom was now signalling for us to go on board again, and for a few
+minutes I was rather afraid we should have had a little trouble in
+getting the men off, as their excitement had not decreased; but after
+a trifling delay and some rather rough play amongst themselves, they
+became steady again, and we returned to the yacht with our various
+prizes.
+
+A 'Mother Carey's chicken' hovered round the wreck while we were on
+board, and followed us to the 'Sunbeam;' and although a flat calm and
+a heavy swell prevailed at the time, we all looked upon our visitor as
+the harbinger of a breeze. In this instance, at least, the well-known
+sailor's superstition was justified; for, before the evening, the wind
+sprang up, and 'fires out and sails up' was the order of the day. We
+were soon bowling merrily along at the rate of seven knots an hour,
+while a clear starlight night and a heavy dew gave promise of a fine
+morrow.
+
+_Friday, July 14th_.--We still have a light wind, right aft,
+accompanied by a heavy roll from the westward, which makes it
+impossible to sit anywhere with comfort, and difficult even to read.
+By 6 a.m. the sun had become very powerful, though its heat was
+tempered by the breeze, which gradually increased throughout the day,
+until, having set all our fore-and-aft canvas, as well as our square
+sails, we glided steadily along, in delightful contrast to the uneasy
+motion of the morning, and of the past few days. Under the
+awning--with the most heavenly blue sky above, and the still darker
+clear blue sea beneath, stretching away in gentle ripples as far as
+the eye could reach--it was simply perfect.
+
+Our little party get on extremely well together, though a week ago
+they were strangers to each other. We are all so busy that we do not
+see much of one another except at meals, and then we have plenty to
+talk about. Captain Lecky imparts to us some of his valuable
+information about scientific navigation and the law of storms, and he
+and Tom and Captain Brown work hard at these subjects. Mr. Freer
+follows in the same path; Mr. Bingham draws and reads; Dr. Potter
+helps me to teach the children, who, I am happy to say, are as well as
+possible. I read and write a great deal, and learn Spanish, so that
+the days are all too short for what we have to do. The servants are
+settling down well into their places, and the commissariat department
+does great credit to the cooks and stewards. The maids get on
+satisfactorily, but are a little nervous on rough nights. We hope not
+to have many more just at present, for we are now approaching calmer
+latitudes.
+
+In the course of the day, whilst Tom and I were sitting in the stern,
+the man at the wheel suddenly exclaimed, 'There's land on the port
+bow.' We knew, from the distance we had run, that this could not be
+the case, and after looking at it through the glasses, Tom pronounced
+the supposed land to be a thick wall of fog, advancing towards us
+_against_ the wind. Captain Brown and Captain Lecky came from below,
+and hastened to get in the studding-sails, in anticipation of the
+coming squall. In a few minutes we had lost our fair breeze and
+brilliant sunshine, all our sails were taken flat aback, and we found
+ourselves enveloped in a dense fog, which made it impossible for us to
+see the length of the vessel. It was an extraordinary phenomenon.
+Captain Lecky, who, in the course of his many voyages, has passed
+within a few miles of this exact spot more than a hundred and fifty
+times, had never seen anything in the least like it. As night came on
+the fog increased, and the boats were prepared ready for lowering. Two
+men went to the wheel, and two to the bows to look out, while an
+officer was stationed on the bridge with steam-whistle and bell ready
+for an emergency; so that, in case we ran into anything, or anything
+ran into us, we should at least have the satisfaction of knowing that,
+so far as we were concerned, it had all been done strictly according
+to Act of Parliament.
+
+_Saturday, July 15th_.--Between midnight and 4 a.m. the fog
+disappeared, as suddenly as it had come on. We must have passed
+through a wide belt of it. At 5.30 a.m., when Tom called me to see a
+steamer go by, it was quite clear. The vessel was the 'Roman,' and she
+passed so close to us that we made our number, and exchanged
+salutations with the officers on the bridge.
+
+Towards the afternoon a nice breeze sprang up, and we were able to
+bank fires and sail.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+MADEIRA, TENERIFFE, AND CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS.
+
+    _Full many a green isle needs must be
+    In this wide sea of misery,
+    Or the mariner worn and wan
+    Never thus could voyage on._
+
+[Illustration: Our First View of Madeira]
+
+
+_Sunday, July 16th_.--Porto Santo being visible on the port bow, a
+quarter of a mile ahead, by 3.55 a.m. this morning, our three
+navigators congratulated themselves and each other on the good
+land-fall they had made.
+
+It looks a curious little island, and is situated about thirty-five
+miles north-east of Madeira, with a high peak in the centre, of which
+we could only see the extreme point, appearing above the clouds.
+
+It is interesting to know that it was from his observation of the
+drift-wood and débris washed on to the eastern shore that Columbus,
+who had married the daughter of the Governor of Porto Santo, derived
+his first impressions of the existence of the New World. Here it was
+that he first realised there might possibly be a large and unknown
+country to the westward; here it was that he first conceived the
+project of exploring the hitherto unknown ocean and of discovering
+what new countries might bound its western shores.
+
+An hour later we saw Fora and its light, at the extreme east of
+Madeira, and could soon distinguish the mountains in the centre of the
+latter island. As we rapidly approached the land, the beauty of the
+scenery became more fully apparent. A mass of dark purple volcanic
+rocks, clothed on the top with the richest vegetation, with patches of
+all sorts of colour on their sides, rises boldly from the sea. There
+are several small detached rocks, and one curious pointed little
+island, with an arch right through the middle of it, rather like the
+Percé Rock on the coast of Nova Scotia. We steamed slowly along the
+east coast, passing many pretty hamlets, nestled in bays or perched on
+the side of the hills, and observing how every possible nook and
+corner seemed to be terraced and cultivated. Sugar-canes, Indian corn,
+vines, and many varieties of tropical and semi-tropical plants, grow
+luxuriantly in this lovely climate. Nearly all the cottages in the
+island are inhabited by a simple people, many of whom have never left
+their native villages, even to look at the magnificent view from the
+top of the surrounding mountains, or to gaze on the sea, by which they
+are encompassed.
+
+We dropped our anchor in the bay of Funchal at about twelve o'clock,
+and before breakfast was over found ourselves surrounded by a perfect
+flotilla of boats, though none of them dared approach very near until
+the health-officer had come alongside and pronounced us free from
+infection. At this moment all are complaining much of the heat, which
+since yesterday has been very great, and is caused by the wind called
+'Este,' blowing direct from the African deserts. It was 79° in the
+coolest place on board, and 84° on shore in the shade, in the middle
+of the day.
+
+The African mail steamer, 'Ethiopia,' last from Bonny, West Coast of
+Africa, whence she arrived the day before yesterday, was lying in the
+bay, and the children went on board with some of our party to see her
+cargo of monkeys, parrots, and pineapples. The result was an
+importation of five parrots on board the 'Sunbeam;' but the monkeys
+were too big for us. Captain Dane, who paid us a return visit, said
+that the temperature here appeared quite cool to him, as for the last
+few weeks his thermometer had varied from 82° to 96° in the shade.
+
+We had service at 4 p.m., and at 5 p.m. went ashore in a native boat,
+furnished with bilge pieces, to keep her straight when beached, and to
+avoid the surf, for it was too rough for our own boats. At the water's
+edge a curious sort of double sleigh, drawn by two oxen, was waiting.
+Into this we stepped, setting off with considerable rapidity up the
+steep shingly beach, under a beautiful row of trees, to the 'Praça,'
+where the greater portion of the population were walking up and down,
+or sitting under the shade of the magnolias. These plants here attain
+the size of forest-trees, and their large white wax-like flowers shed
+a most delightful fragrance on the evening air. There were graceful
+pepper vines too, and a great variety of trees only known to us in
+England in the form of small shrubs. This being a festival day, the
+streets were crowded with people from town and country, in their
+holiday attire. The door-posts and balconies of the houses were
+wreathed with flowers, the designs in many cases being very pretty.
+One arcade in particular was quite lovely, with arches made of double
+red geranium, mixed with the feathery-looking pepper leaves, while the
+uprights were covered with amaryllis and white arum lilies. The
+streets were strewn with roses and branches of myrtle, which, bruised
+by the feet of the passers-by and the runners of the bullock sleigh,
+emitted a delicious aromatic odour.
+
+The trellises in the gardens seem overgrown with stephanotis, mauve
+and purple passion-flowers, and all kinds of rare creepers, the purple
+and white hibiscus shoots up some fourteen to sixteen feet in height;
+bananas, full of fruit and flower, strelitzias, heliotrope, geraniums,
+and pelargoniums, bloom all around in large shrubs, mixed with palms
+and mimosas of every variety; and the whole formed such an enchanting
+picture that we were loth to tear ourselves away.
+
+A ride of about twenty minutes in the bullock sleigh, up a steep hill,
+by the side of a rocky torrent, whose banks were overgrown with
+caladiums and vines, brought us to our destination, Til, whence we had
+a splendid view of the town and bay stretching beneath us. During the
+ascent we passed several cottages, whose inhabitants stood airing
+themselves on the threshold after the great heat of the day, and
+through the open doorways we occasionally got a peep into the gardens
+beyond, full of bright flowers and luxuriant with vines, fig-trees,
+and bananas. As we sat in the terrace garden at Til we enjoyed the
+sweet scent of the flowers we could no longer see, and listened to the
+cool splash of the water in the fountain below; whilst Allnutt, with
+unceasing energy, searched amongst the bushes for moths, of which he
+found a large number.
+
+We jogged down the hill a great deal faster than we had come up,
+stopping only for a short time in the now more than ever crowded
+'Praça,' to listen to one or two airs played by the Portuguese band,
+before we got back to the yacht at about half-past ten.
+
+Next morning we were off to the fish-market by seven o'clock, but it
+was not a good time for our visit, as there had been no moon on the
+previous night; and, though there were fish of various kinds, saw
+nothing specially worthy of notice. The picturesque costumes of the
+people were, however, interesting. We afterwards went to the
+fruit-market, though it was not specially worth seeing, for most of
+the fruit and vegetables are brought in boats from villages on the
+sea-shore; and, as it is necessary to wait until the sea-breeze
+springs up, they do not arrive until midday. After our walk the
+children and I went down to the beach and bathed, taking care not to
+go too far out on account of the sharks, of which we had been warned.
+We undressed and dressed in tents, not unlike clothes-horses, with a
+bit of matting thrown over them, in which the heat was intense. The
+beach is very steep; and as one gets out of one's depth immediately,
+indifferent swimmers put on a couple of bladders--which stick out
+behind their backs and produce a strange effect--or else take a
+bathing-man into the water with them. I preferred the latter course;
+and we all had a pleasant bathe.
+
+[Illustration: Fish Carrier]
+
+The natives seem almost amphibious in their habits, and the yacht is
+surrounded all day by boats full of small boys, who will dive to any
+depth for sixpence, a dozen of them spluttering and fighting for the
+coin in the water at the same time. They will go down on one side of
+the yacht too, and bob up on the other, almost before you have time to
+run across the deck to witness their reappearance.
+
+The Loo Rock, with its old fortress, close to our anchorage, forms a
+picturesque object; and the scene from the yacht, enlivened by the
+presence of numerous market-boats, laden with fruit and vegetables, is
+very pretty. We lie about 150 yards from the shore, just under Mr.
+Danero's quinta. The cliff just here is overhung with bougainvillæas,
+geraniums, fuchsias, aloes, prickly pears, and other flowers, which
+grow luxuriantly quite down to the water's edge, wherever they can
+contrive to find a root-hold.
+
+After five o'clock tea we rode up the Mount and through the woods on
+horseback, along a road gay with masses of wild geranium, hydrangea,
+amaryllis, and fuchsia. We dismounted at a lovely place, which
+contains a large number of rare trees and plants, brought from all
+parts of the world. Here were enormous camellias, as well as purple,
+red, and white azaleas, Guernsey lilies, all growing in the greatest
+profusion.
+
+Our descent of the Mount, by means of a form of conveyance commonly
+used on the island, was very amusing. At the summit we found
+basket-work sleighs, each constructed to hold two people, and attended
+by a couple of men, lashed together. Into these we stepped, and were
+immediately pushed down the hill at a tremendous pace. The gliding
+motion is delightful, and was altogether a novelty to us. The men
+manage the sleighs with great skill, steering them in the most
+wonderful manner round the sharp angles in the zigzag road, and making
+use of their bare feet as brakes when necessary. The turns were
+occasionally so abrupt, that it seemed almost impossible that we could
+avoid being upset; but we reached the bottom quite safely. The
+children were especially delighted with the trip, and indeed we all
+enjoyed it immensely. The only danger is the risk of fire from the
+friction of the steel runners against the gravel road.
+
+After paying a visit to Mr. and Mrs. Blandy, whose house is
+beautifully situated, we dined at the hotel, and afterwards sat in
+the lovely semi-tropical garden until it was time to go on board to
+bed.
+
+_Tuesday, July 18th_.--We were called at 4.30 a.m., and went ashore
+soon after six to meet some friends, with whom we had arranged to ride
+up to the Gran Corral, and to breakfast there, 5,000 feet above the
+level of the sea.
+
+It soon became evident that the time we had selected for landing was
+the fashionable bathing hour. In fact, it required some skill on our
+part to keep the boat clear of the crowds of people of both sexes and
+all ages, who were taking their morning dip. It was most absurd to see
+entire families, from the bald-headed and spectacled grandfather to
+the baby who could scarcely walk, all disporting themselves in the
+water together, many of them supported by the very inelegant-looking
+bladders I have mentioned. There was a little delay in mounting our
+horses, under the shade of the fig-trees; but when we were once off, a
+party of eleven, the cavalcade became quite formidable. As we
+clattered up the paved streets, between vineyard and garden walls,
+'curiosity opened her lattice,' on more than one occasion, to
+ascertain the cause of the unwonted commotion. The views on our way,
+as we sometimes climbed a steep ascent or descended a deep ravine,
+were very varied, but always beautiful. About half-way up we stopped
+to rest under a delightful trellis of vines, by the side of a rushing
+mountain stream, bordered with ferns; then, leaving the vineyards and
+gardens behind us, we passed through forests of shady Spanish chestnut
+trees, beneath which stretched the luxurious greensward.
+
+At ten o'clock we quitted this grateful shade, and arrived at the neck
+of the pass, facing the Gran Corral, where we had to make our choice
+of ascending a conical hill, on our left, or the Torrinhas Peak, on
+our right. The latter was chosen, as promising the better view,
+although it was rather farther off, so we were accordingly seized
+upon by some of the crowd of peasants who surrounded us, and who at
+once proceeded to push and pull us up a steep slippery grass slope,
+interspersed with large boulders. The view from the top, looking down
+a sheer precipice of some 1,500 feet in depth into the valley below,
+was lovely. Quite at the bottom, amid the numerous ravines and small
+spurs of rocks by which the valley is intersected, we could
+distinguish some small patches of cultivated ground. Above our heads
+towered the jagged crests of the highest peaks, Pico Ruivo and others,
+which we had already seen from the yacht, when we first sighted the
+island.
+
+A pleasant walk over some grassy slopes, and two more hard scrambles,
+took us to the summit of the Torrinhas Peak; but the charming and
+extensive view towards Camara de Lobos, and the bay and town of
+Funchal, was an ample reward for all our trouble. It did not take us
+long to get back to the welcome shade of the chestnut trees, for we
+were all ravenously hungry, it being now eleven o'clock. But, alas!
+breakfast had not arrived: so we had no resource but to mount our
+horses again and ride down to meet it. Mr. Miles, of the hotel, had
+not kept his word; he had promised that our provisions should be sent
+up to us by nine o'clock, and it was midday before we met the men
+carrying the hampers on their heads. There was now nothing for it but
+to organise a picnic on the terrace of Mr. Veitch's deserted villa,
+beneath the shade of camellia, fuchsia, myrtle, magnolia, and
+pepper-trees, from whence we could also enjoy the fine view of the
+fertile valley beneath us and the blue sea sparkling beyond.
+
+_Wednesday, July 19th_.--We were so tired after our exertions of
+yesterday, that it was nine o'clock before we all mustered for our
+morning swim, which I think we enjoyed the more from the fact of our
+having previously been prevented by the sharks, or rather by the
+rumour of sharks.
+
+We were engaged to lunch at Mr. and Mrs. Blandy's, but I was so weary
+that I did not go ashore until about six o'clock in the evening, and
+then I went first to the English cemetery, which is very prettily laid
+out and well kept. The various paths are shaded by pepper-trees,
+entwined with bougainvillæa, while in many places the railings are
+completely covered by long trailing masses of stephanotis in full
+bloom. Some of the inscriptions on the tombs are extremely touching,
+and it is sad to see, as is almost always the case in places much
+resorted to by invalids, how large a proportion of those who lie
+buried here have been cut off in the very flower of their youth.
+Indeed, the residents at Madeira complain that it is a melancholy
+drawback to the charms of this beautiful island, that the friendship
+frequently formed between them and people who come hither in search of
+health, is in so many cases brought to an early and sad termination.
+Having seen and admired Mrs. Foljambe's charming garden by daylight,
+we returned on board to receive some friends. Unfortunately they were
+not very good sailors, and, out of our party of twenty, one lady had
+to go ashore at once, and another before dinner was over.
+
+They all admired the yacht very much, particularly the various cozy
+corners in the deck-house. It was a lovely night; and after the
+departure of our guests, at about ten o'clock, we steamed out of the
+bay, where we found a nice light breeze, which enabled us to sail.
+
+[Illustration: A Cozy Corner.]
+
+_Thursday, July 20th_.--All to-day has been taken up in arranging our
+photographs, journals, &c. &c., and in preparing for our visit to
+Teneriffe. About twelve o'clock the wind fell light and we tried
+fishing, but without success, though several bonitos or flying-fish
+were seen. It was very hot, and it seemed quite a relief when, at
+eight o'clock in the evening, we began steaming, thus creating a
+breeze for ourselves.
+
+_Friday, July 21st_.--We all rose early, and were full of excitement
+to catch the first glimpse of the famous Peak of Teneriffe. There was
+a nice breeze from the north-east, the true trade wind, we hope, which
+ought to carry us down nearly to the Line. The morning being rather
+hazy, it was quite ten o'clock before we saw the Peak, towering above
+the clouds, right ahead, about fifty-nine miles off. As we approached,
+it appeared less perpendicular than we had expected, or than it is
+generally represented in pictures. The other mountains too, in the
+centre of the island, from the midst of which it rises, are so very
+lofty that, in spite of its conical sugar-loaf top, it is difficult at
+first to realise that the Peak is 12,180 feet high.
+
+We dropped anchor under its shadow in the harbour of Orotava in
+preference to the capital, Santa Cruz, both on account of its being a
+healthier place, and also in order to be nearer to the Peak, which we
+wished to ascend.
+
+The heat having made the rest of our party rather lazy, Captain Lecky
+and I volunteered to go on shore to see the Vice-Consul, Mr. Goodall,
+and try to make arrangements for our expedition. It was only 2 p.m.,
+and very hot work, walking through the deserted streets, but luckily
+we had not far to go, and the house was nice and cool when we got
+there. Mr. Goodall sent off at once for a carriage, despatching a
+messenger also to the mountains for horses and guides, which there was
+some difficulty in obtaining at such short notice.
+
+Having organised the expedition we re-embarked to dine on board the
+yacht, and I went to bed at seven, to be called again, however, at
+half-past ten o'clock. After a light supper, we landed and went to the
+Vice-Consul's arriving there exactly at midnight. But no horses were
+forthcoming, so we lay down on our rugs in the patio, and endeavoured
+to sleep, as we knew we should require all our strength for the
+expedition before us.
+
+There were sundry false alarms of a start, as the horses arrived by
+ones and twos from the neighbouring villages, accompanied by their
+respective owners. By two o'clock all our steeds, twelve in number,
+had assembled, and in another quarter of an hour we were leaving the
+town by a steep stony path, bordered by low walls. There was no moon,
+and for the first two hours it was very dark. At the end of that time
+we could see the first glimmer of dawn, and were shortly afterwards
+able to distinguish each other and to observe the beautiful view which
+lay below us as we wended our way up and up between small patches of
+cultivation. Soon we climbed above the clouds, which presented a most
+curious appearance as we looked down upon them. The strata through
+which we had passed was so dense and so white, that it looked exactly
+like an enormous glacier, covered with fresh fallen snow, extending
+for miles and miles; while the projecting tops of the other Canary
+Islands appeared only like great solitary rocks.
+
+The sun had already become very oppressive, and at half-past seven we
+stopped to breakfast and to water the horses. Half-past eight found us
+in the saddle again, and we commenced to traverse a dreary plain of
+yellowish white pumice-stone, interspersed with huge blocks of
+obsidian, thrown from the mouth of the volcano. At first the monotony
+of the scene was relieved by large bushes of yellow broom in full
+flower, and still larger bushes of the beautiful _Retama blanca_,
+quite covered with lovely white bloom, scenting the air with its
+delicious fragrance, and resembling huge tufts of feathers, eight or
+nine feet high. As we proceeded, however, we left all traces of
+vegetation behind us. It was like the Great Sahara. On every side a
+vast expanse of yellow pumice-stone sand spread around us, an
+occasional block of rock sticking up here and there, and looking as if
+it had indeed been fused in a mighty furnace. By half-past ten we had
+reached the 'Estancia de los Ingleses,' 9,639 feet above the level of
+the sea, where the baggage and some of the horses had to be left
+behind, the saddles being transferred to mules for the very steep
+climb before us. After a drink of water all round, we started again,
+and commenced the ascent of the almost perpendicular stream of lava
+and stone, which forms the only practicable route to the top. Our poor
+beasts were only able to go a few paces at a time without stopping to
+regain their breath. The loose ashes and lava fortunately gave them a
+good foothold, or it would have been quite impossible for them to get
+along at all. One was only encouraged to proceed by the sight of one's
+friends above, looking like flies clinging to the face of a wall. The
+road, if such it can be called, ran in zigzags, each of which was
+about the length of two horses, so that we were in turns one above
+another. There were a few slips and slides and tumbles, but no
+important casualties; and in about an hour and a half we had reached
+the 'Alta Vista,' a tiny plateau, where the horses were to be left.
+
+The expedition so far had been such a fatiguing one, and the heat was
+so great, that the children and I decided to remain here, and to let
+the gentlemen proceed alone to the summit of the Peak. We tried to
+find some shade, but the sun was so immediately above us that this was
+almost an impossibility. However, we managed to squeeze ourselves
+under some slightly overhanging rocks, and I took some photographs
+while the children slept. The guides soon returned with water-barrels
+full of ice, procured from a cavern above, where there is a stream of
+water constantly running; and nothing could have been more grateful
+and refreshing.
+
+It was more than three hours before Tom and Captain Lecky reappeared,
+to be soon followed by the rest of the party. Whilst they rested and
+refreshed themselves with ice, they described the ascent as fatiguing
+in the extreme, in fact, almost an impossibility for a lady. First
+they had scrambled over huge blocks of rough lava to the tiny plain of
+the Rambleta, 11,466 feet above the level of the sea, after which they
+had to climb up the cone itself, 530 feet in height, and sloping at an
+angle of 44 degrees. It is composed of ashes and calcined chalk, into
+which their feet sank, while, for every two steps they made forwards
+and upwards, they slipped one backwards. But those who reached the top
+were rewarded for their exertions by a glorious view, and by the
+wonderful appearance of the summit of the Peak. The ground beneath
+their feet was hot, while sulphurous vapours and smoke issued from
+various small fissures around them, though there has been no actual
+eruption from this crater of the volcano since 1704. They brought down
+with them a beautiful piece of calcined chalk, covered with crystals
+of sulphur and arsenic, and some other specimens. Parched and dry as
+the ground looked where I was resting, a few grains of barley, dropped
+by mules on the occasion of a previous visit, had taken root and had
+grown up into ear; and there were also a few roots of a sort of
+dog-violet, showing its delicate lavender-coloured flowers 11,000 feet
+above the sea, and far beyond the level of any other vegetation.
+
+It was impossible to ride down to the spot where we had left the
+baggage animals, and the descent was consequently very fatiguing, and
+even painful. At every step our feet sank into a mass of loose scoriæ
+and ashes; and so we went slipping, sliding, and stumbling along,
+sometimes running against a rock, and sometimes nearly pitching
+forward on our faces. All this too beneath a blazing sun, with the
+thermometer at 78°, and not a vestige of shade. At last Tom and I
+reached the bottom, where, after partaking of luncheon and draughts of
+quinine, we lay down under the shadow of a great rock to recruit our
+weary frames.
+
+Refreshed by our meal, we started at six o'clock on our return
+journey, and went down a good deal faster than we came up. Before the
+end of the pumice-stone or Retama plains had been reached, it was
+nearly dark. Sundry small accidents occurring to stirrup-leathers,
+bridles, and girths--for the saddlery was not of the best
+description--delayed us slightly, and as Tom, Dr. Potter, Allnutt, and
+the guide had got on ahead, we soon lost sight of them. After an
+interval of uncertainty, the other guides confessed that they did not
+know the way back in the dark. This was not pleasant, for the roads
+were terrible, and during the whole of our journey up, from the port
+to the Peak, we had met only four people in all--two goatherds with
+their flocks, and two 'neveros,' bringing down ice to the town. There
+was therefore not much chance of gaining information from any one on
+our way down. We wandered about among low bushes, down watercourses,
+and over rocks for a long time. Horns were blown, and other means of
+attracting attention were tried; first one and then another of the
+party meanwhile coming more or less to grief. My good little horse
+fell down three times, though we did not part company, and once he
+went up a steep bank by mistake, instead of going down a very nasty
+watercourse, which I do not wonder at his objecting to. I managed to
+jump off in time, and so no harm was done; but it was rather anxious
+work.
+
+About ten o'clock we saw a light in the distance, and with much
+shouting woke up the inhabitants of the cottage whence it proceeded,
+promising to reward them liberally if they would only show us our way
+back. Three of them consented to do this, and provided themselves
+accordingly with pine-torches, wrapped round with bracken and leaves.
+One, a very fine man, dressed in white, with his arm extended above
+his head, bearing the light, led the way; another walked in front of
+my horse, while the third brought up the rear. They conducted us down
+the most frightfully steep paths until we had descended beneath the
+clouds, when the light from our torches threw our shadows in gigantic
+form upon the mists above, reminding us of the legend of the 'Spectre
+of the Brocken.' At last the torches began to go out, one by one, and
+just as the last light was expiring we arrived at a small village,
+where we of course found that everybody was asleep. After some delay,
+during which Mabelle and I were so tired that we lay down in the
+street to rest, more torches were procured and a fresh guide, who led
+us into the comparatively good path towards Puerto Orotava. Finally,
+half an hour after midnight, we arrived at the house of the
+Vice-Consul, who had provided refreshments for us, and whose nephew
+was still very kindly sitting up awaiting our return. But we were too
+tired to do anything but go straight on board the yacht, where, after
+some supper and champagne, we were indeed glad to retire to our
+berths. This was at 3.30 a.m., exactly twenty-nine hours since we had
+been called on Friday night.
+
+It is certainly too long an expedition to be performed in one day.
+Tents should be taken, and arrangements made for camping out for one,
+if not two, nights; but, in the case of such a large party as ours,
+this would have been a great business, as everything must be carried
+to so great a height, up such steep places, and over such bad roads.
+Still, there are so many objects and places of interest, not only on,
+but around, the Peak, that it is a pity to see them only when hurried
+and fatigued.
+
+_Sunday, July 23rd_.--Orders had been given not to call us nor to wash
+decks, and it was consequently half-past ten before any one awoke, and
+midday before the first of our party put in an appearance on deck.
+
+Long before this, the 'Sunbeam' had been inundated with visitors from
+the shore. We had given a general invitation to the friends of the
+Vice-Consul to come and see the yacht; and they accordingly arrived in
+due course, accompanied in many cases by a large circle of
+acquaintances. Those who came first were conducted below and all over
+the vessel, but the number ultimately became so great that, in
+self-defence, we were obliged to limit their wanderings to the deck,
+opening the skylights wide, however, to enable them to see as much as
+possible of the saloon and cabins.
+
+From breakfast-time until prayers, at three o'clock, when the yacht
+was closed for an hour, there was a constant stream of visitors from
+the shore. It was a great nuisance; but still it seemed unkind to
+refuse to allow them to see what they had never seen before, and might
+possibly never have an opportunity of seeing again. All steamers and
+sailing-ships, as a rule, go to Santa Cruz; and the fame of our vessel
+having been spread abroad by our visitors of Friday, many of the poor
+people had come from villages far away over the mountains. We could
+not help feeling a certain respect for the determined way in which
+physical infirmity was mastered by curiosity for, though many
+experienced very serious inconvenience from the motion of the vessel,
+they still persevered in their examination.
+
+About five o'clock we went ashore ourselves, and drove up to Villa
+Orotava. The wide road is macadamised and marked with kilometre
+stones, and is planted on either side with pepper-trees, plane-trees,
+and the _Eucalyptus globulus_, which has grown 35 metres, or 115 feet,
+in seven years. The hedges are formed of blue plumbago, scarlet
+geranium, yellow acacia, lavender-coloured heliotrope, white jasmine,
+and pink and white roses.
+
+After driving a few miles, we turned down an old paved road towards
+the sea, and, by dint of a considerable amount of shaking, arrived at
+the celebrated Botanical Gardens, mentioned by Humboldt and others. We
+passed through a small house, with a fine dragon-tree on either side,
+and entered the gardens, where we found a valuable collection of trees
+and shrubs of almost every known species. The kind and courteous
+Curator, Don Hermann Wildgaret, accompanied us, and explained the
+peculiarities of the many interesting plants, from Europe, Asia,
+Africa, America, Australia, New Zealand, and the various islands of
+the North and South Pacific and Indian Oceans. The climate of
+Teneriffe is so equable, that the island forms a true garden of
+acclimatisation for the vegetable productions of the various countries
+of the world; by the judicious expenditure of a little more money,
+this establishment might be made an important means of introducing to
+Europe many new and valuable plants. At present the annual income is
+5,000 francs, the salary of the Curator being 1,000 francs.
+
+A rough drive over paved roads, commanding extensive views of sea and
+rocks, and of some palm-trees on a promontory in the distance, brought
+us, at about seven o'clock, to the boat, which was waiting our return.
+We arrived in due course on board the 'Sunbeam,' laden with bouquets
+of the choicest flowers, and soon after dinner we all retired to bed,
+not having yet recovered from the fatigues of yesterday.
+
+_Monday, July 24th_.--What one gains in the beauty and abundance of
+vegetable life here, one loses in its rapid and premature decay. Fruit
+gathered in the morning is scarcely fit to eat at night, and the
+flowers brought on board yesterday evening were dead to-day at 4.30
+a.m.; whilst some of the roses we brought from Cowes lasted until we
+reached Madeira, though it must be owned so many fell to pieces that
+my cabin used to be daily swept with rose-leaves instead of
+tea-leaves.
+
+We went ashore soon after six, and drove straight to the garden of the
+Marquis de Sonzal, where there is a beautiful palm-tree, 101 feet
+high, the remains of an enormous dragon-tree, old even in the
+fifteenth century, besides hedges of myrtle, jasmine, and clematis,
+and flowers of every description in full bloom. The dragon-tree is a
+species of dracæna, and looks rather like a gigantic candelabra,
+composed of a number of yuccas, perched on the top of a gnarled and
+somewhat deformed stem, half palm half cactus. Another beautiful
+garden was next visited, belonging to the Marquis de la Candia, who
+received us and showed us his coffee and plantains in full growth, as
+well as a magnificent Spanish chestnut-tree, coëval with the
+dragon-tree. Out of one of its almost decayed branches a so-called
+young tree was growing, but it would have been thought very
+respectable and middle-aged in any other locality.
+
+Every one here, as in Madeira, has been more or less ruined by the
+failure of the vines. Most of the large landed proprietors have left
+their estates to take care of themselves; and the peasants, for the
+last few years, have been emigrating by hundreds to Caraccas, in
+Venezuela. Things are, however, beginning to look up a little now. The
+cultivation of cochineal appears to succeed, though the price is low;
+coffee answers well; and permission has been obtained from the Spanish
+Government to grow tobacco, accompanied by a promise to purchase, at
+a certain fixed rate, all that can be produced. Still, people talk of
+the Island of Teneriffe as something very different now from what it
+was twenty-five or thirty years ago, both as regards the number of its
+inhabitants and the activity of its commerce, and mourn over 'the good
+old times;'--a custom I have remarked in many other places!
+
+[Illustration: A Palm-tree in a Garden, Orotava, Teneriffe.]
+
+The Marquis de la Candia and Don Hermann Wildgaret returned on board
+with us to breakfast. The anchor had been weighed, and the 'Sunbeam'
+was slowly steaming up and down, waiting for us. The stream of
+visitors had been as great and as constant as ever during our absence,
+in spite of the heavy roll of the sea, and the deck seemed quite
+covered with baskets of flowers and fruit, kindly sent on board by the
+people who had been over the yacht the day before. Amongst the latest
+arrivals were some very handsome Spanish ladies, beautifully dressed
+in black, with mantillas, each of whom was accompanied by a young man
+carrying a basin. It must, I fear, be confessed that this was rather a
+trial to the gravity of all on board. It certainly was an instance of
+the pursuit of knowledge, or the gratification of curiosity, under
+considerable difficulties.
+
+Immediately after breakfast, our friends bade us adieu, and went
+ashore in the shore-boat, while we steamed along the north side of the
+island, past the splendid cliffs of Buenavista, rising 2,000 feet
+sheer from the sea, to Cape Teno, the extreme western point of
+Teneriffe. In the distance we could see the Great Canary, Palma, and
+Hierro, and soon passed close to the rocky island of Gomera. Here,
+too, the dark cliffs, of volcanic form and origin, are magnificent,
+and as we were almost becalmed by the high land whilst we sailed along
+the north shore of the island, we had ample opportunities of admiring
+its rugged beauty. During the night we approached Palma, another large
+island of the Canary group, containing one of the most remarkable
+_calderas_, or large basins, formed by volcanic action in the world.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+
+PALMA TO RIO DE JANEIRO.
+
+    _A wet sheet and a flowing sea,_
+    _A wind that follows fast_
+    _And fills the white and rustling sail_
+    _And bends the gallant mast._
+
+_Tuesday, July 25th_.--There was not much wind during the night, and
+Palma was consequently still visible when I came on deck at daybreak.
+We had a light fair wind in the morning, accompanied by a heavy swell,
+which caused us to roll so much that I found it very difficult to do
+anything. Several shoals of flying fish skimmed past us along the
+surface of the water, occasionally rising to a considerable height
+above it. Their beautiful wings, glittering in the bright sunlight,
+looked like delicate silver filigree-work. In the night one flew on
+board, only to be preserved in spirits by Dr. Potter.
+
+_Saturday, July 29th_.--For the last three days we have been going on
+quietly with fair, warm weather, but a nice fresh breeze sprang up
+to-day. At midday the sun was so exactly vertical over our heads, that
+it was literally possible to stand under the shadow of one's own
+hatbrim, and be sheltered all round. Our navigators experienced
+considerable difficulty in taking their noon-tide observations, as the
+sun appeared to dodge about in every direction.
+
+About two o'clock we made the high land of St. Antonio, one of the
+Cape de Verde Islands, and, soon afterwards, the lower land of St
+Vincent. Some doubt existing as to the prevalence of fever at the
+latter place, Tom decided not to stop there, for fear of having to
+undergo quarantine at Rio de Janeiro. We therefore shortened sail, and
+passed slowly between the islands to the anchorage beyond the Bird
+Rock. This is a very small island, of perfectly conical form, covered
+with thousands of sea-fowl, who live here undisturbed by any other
+inhabitants. The town of Porto Grande, with its rows of white houses
+on the sea-shore, at the base of the rocky crags, looked clean and
+comfortable in the evening light. During the day, however, it must be
+a hot and glaring place, for there are no trees to afford shade, nor,
+indeed, any kind of vegetation. The water, too, is bad, and all
+supplies for passing steamers are brought from the other islands, at
+very uncertain intervals. It is still a great coaling-station, though
+not so much used as it was formerly, before the opening of the Suez
+Canal. The ships come out with coal, and go away in ballast (there is
+nothing else to be had here), procured from a point near the town, to
+Rio or elsewhere, where they pick up their homeward cargo of fruit,
+&c.
+
+The absence of twilight in these latitudes, both at dawn and sunset,
+is certainly very remarkable. This morning, at four o'clock, the stars
+were shining brightly; ten minutes later the day had commenced to
+break; and at half-past four the sun had risen above the horizon, and
+was gilding the surrounding mountain tops.
+
+_Sunday, July 30th_.--About 10 a.m. we were off Tarafal Bay--a most
+hopeless-looking place for supplies. High rocky mountains, sandy
+slopes, and black volcanic beach, composed a scene of arid desolation,
+in the midst of which was situated one small white house, with four
+windows and a thatched roof, surrounded by a little green patch of
+sugar-canes and cocoa-nut palms.
+
+But the result proved the sageness of the advice contained in the old
+proverb, not to trust to appearances only; for, whilst we were at
+breakfast, Mr. Martinez, the son of the owner of the one whitewashed
+cottage to be seen, came on board. To our surprise, he spoke English
+extremely well, and promised us all sorts of supplies, if we could
+wait until three o'clock in the afternoon. Having agreed to do this,
+we shortly afterwards went ashore in his boat, with a crew of more
+than half-naked negroes, and a hot row of about three miles brought us
+to the shore, where, after some little difficulty, we succeeded in
+effecting a landing. Our feet immediately sank into the hot black
+sand, composed entirely of volcanic deposits and small pieces, or
+rather grains, of amber, through which we had a fatiguing walk until
+we reached some palm-trees, shading a little pool of water. Here we
+left some of the men, with instructions to fill the breakers they had
+brought with them, while we walked on along the beach, past the
+remains of an English schooner that caught fire not far from this
+island, and was run ashore by her captain, thirty years ago. Her iron
+anchor, chain, and wheel still remained, together with two queer
+little iron cannon, which I should have much liked to carry off as a
+memorial of our visit. We then turned up a narrow shadeless path,
+bordered by stone walls, leading away from the sea, past a sugar-mill
+and a ruin. A few almond, castor-oil, and fig trees were growing
+amongst the sugar-canes, and as we mounted the hill we could see some
+thirty round straw huts, like beehives, on the sandy slopes beside the
+little stream. An abrupt turn in the mountains, amid which, at a
+distance of three leagues, this tiny river takes its rise, hides it
+from the sea, so that the narrow valley which it fertilises looks like
+a small oasis in the desert of rocks and sand.
+
+Mr. Martinez's house, where we sat for some time, and beneath the
+windows of which the one stream of the island runs, was comparatively
+cool. Outside, the negro washerwomen were busy washing clothes in large
+turtle-shell tubs, assisted, or hindered, by the 'washerwoman-bird,'
+a kind of white crane, who appeared quite tame, playing about just
+like a kitten, pecking at the clothes or the women's feet, and
+then running away and hiding behind a tree. The stream was full of
+water-cresses, while the burnt-up little garden contained an abundance
+of beautiful flowers. There were scarlet and yellow mimosas, of many
+kinds, combining every shade of exquisite green velvety foliage,
+alpinias, with pink, waxy flowers and crimson and gold centres,
+oleanders, begonias, hibiscus, allamandas, and arum and other lilies.
+
+[Illustration: Tarafal Bay, St. Antonio.]
+
+Mr. Bingham sketched, I took some photographs, Dr. Potter and the
+children caught butterflies, and the rest of our party wandered about.
+Every five minutes a negro arrived with a portion of our supplies. One
+brought a sheep, another a milch-goat for baby, while the rest
+contributed, severally, a couple of cocoa-nuts, a papaya, three
+mangoes, a few water-cresses, a sack of sweet potatoes, a bottle of
+milk, three or four quinces, a bunch of bananas, a little honey,
+half-a-dozen cabbages, some veal and pork, and so on; until it
+appeared as if every little garden on either side of the three leagues
+of stream must have yielded up its entire produce, and we had
+accumulated sacks full of cocoa-nuts and potatoes, hundreds of eggs,
+and dozens of chickens and ducks. It was very amusing to see the
+things arrive. They were brought in by people varying in colour from
+dark yellow to the blackest ebony, and ranging in size from fine
+stalwart men, over six feet in height, to tiny little blackies of
+about three feet six, with curly hair, snowy teeth, and mischievous,
+beady eyes. The arrival of the provision boat and the transfer of its
+miscellaneous cargo to the 'Sunbeam' was quite an amusing sight. The
+pretty black goat and the sheep bleated, the fowls cackled, and the
+ducks quacked, while the negroes chatted and laughed as they handed
+and hauled on board fish of all shapes and sizes, bunches of bananas,
+piles of cocoa-nuts, sacks of potatoes, and many other things,
+finishing up with a tiny black boy, about three years old, whom I
+think they would rather have liked to leave behind with us, if we
+would only have taken him. The fish proved excellent, though some of
+them really seemed almost too pretty to eat. A brilliant gold fish,
+weighing about three pounds, and something like a grey mullet in
+flavour, was perhaps the best. The prices were very curious. Chickens
+a shilling each, ducks five shillings, goats thirty shillings, and
+sheep ten shillings. Vegetables, fruit, and flowers were extremely
+cheap; but the charge for water, fetched from the spring in our own
+breakers by our own crew, with but little assistance from four or five
+negroes, was 3_l_. 18_s_. However, as ours is the only yacht, with one
+exception, that has ever visited this island, there was nothing for it
+except to pay the bill without demur.
+
+I never in my life felt so warm as I did to-day on shore, though the
+inhabitants say it will not be _really_ hot for two months yet; I
+never before saw cocoa-nut palms growing; and I never tasted a mango
+until this morning; so I have experienced three new sensations in one
+day.
+
+The night was fearfully close, muggy, and thundery, the temperature in
+the cabins being 89°, in spite of open sky-lights and port-holes.
+Generally speaking, it has not hitherto been as hot as we expected,
+especially on board the yacht itself. On deck there is almost always a
+nice breeze, but below it is certainly warm.
+
+_Tuesday, August 1st_.--Yesterday we were still under sail, but to-day
+it has been necessary to steam, for the wind has fallen too light.
+There was a heavy roll from the south, and the weather continued hot
+and oppressive. In the cabins the thermometer stood at 89° during the
+whole of the night, in spite of all our efforts to improve the
+temperature. We therefore put three of the children in the deck-house
+to sleep, opening the doors and windows; and some of the rest of our
+party slept on deck in hammocks. In anticipation of the heavy
+equatorial rains, which Captain Lecky had predicted might commence
+to-day, we had had the awnings put up; a fortunate piece of foresight,
+for, before midnight, the rain came down in torrents.
+
+_Wednesday, August 2nd_.--At daybreak the sky was covered with heavy
+black clouds, and the atmosphere was as hot and muggy as ever. We had
+a great deal of rain during the day, and took advantage of the
+opportunity to fill every available tub, bucket, and basin, to say
+nothing of the awnings. It came down in such sheets that mackintoshes
+were comparatively useless, and we had soon filled our seventeen
+breakers, the cistern, and the boats, from which we had removed the
+covers, with very good, though somewhat dirty, washing water.
+
+_Friday, August 4th_.--We were only 289 miles off Sierra Leone in the
+morning, and at noon therefore Tom decided to put about. Having done
+so, we found that we went along much more easily and quite as fast on
+the other tack. We maintained a good rate of speed on our new course,
+which was now nearly due west, passing a large barque with every
+stitch of canvas set, hand over hand.
+
+We are still in the Guinea current, and the temperature of the water
+is 82°, even in the early morning; but the heat of the sun does not
+seem to have much effect upon it, as it does not vary to any great
+extent during the day.
+
+[Illustration: Father Neptune.]
+
+In the evening we saw the Southern Cross for the first time, and were
+much disappointed in its appearance. The fourth star is of smaller
+magnitude than the others, and the whole group is only for a very
+short time in a really upright position, inclining almost always
+either to one side or the other, as it rises and sets.
+
+_Tuesday, August 8th_.--We crossed the line at daylight.
+
+This event caused much fun and excitement, both in cabin and
+forecastle. The conventional hair was put across the field of the
+telescope for the unsophisticated 'really to see the line,' and many
+firmly believed they did see it, and discussed its appearance at some
+length. Jim Allen, one of our tallest sailors, and coxswain of the
+gig, dressed in blue, with long oakum wig and beard, gilt paper crown,
+and trident and fish impaled in one hand, was seated on a
+gun-carriage, and made a capital Father Neptune. Our somewhat portly
+engineer, Mr. Rowbotham, with fur-trimmed dressing gown and cap, and
+bent form, leaning on a stick, his face partially concealed by a long
+grey beard, and a large band-box of pills on one arm, made an equally
+good doctor to his Marine Majesty, while the part of Mrs. Trident was
+ably filled by one of the youngest sailors, dressed in some of the
+maids' clothes; but the accompanying pictures will give a better idea
+than any description of mine.
+
+[Illustration: His Doctor (Crossing the Line)]
+
+Soon afterwards we saw an enormous shoal of grampuses, large black
+fish, about 25 feet in length, something between a dolphin and a
+whale, with the very ugliest jaws, or rather snouts, imaginable. They
+are of a predatory and ferocious disposition, attacking not only
+sharks, dolphins, and porpoises, but even whales, more than twice
+their own size. We also passed through enormous quantities of
+flying-fish, no doubt driven to the surface by dolphins and bonitos.
+They were much larger and stronger in the wing than any we have
+hitherto seen.
+
+Lulu's puppies, born yesterday, have been respectively named Butterfly
+(who survived her birth only an hour), Poseidon, Aphrodite,
+Amphitrite, and Thetis--names suggested by their birth-place on the
+ocean close to his Marine Majesty's supposed equatorial palace.
+
+[Illustration: Lulu and her Puppies]
+
+At noon we were 250 miles off St. Paul's Rocks.
+
+_Thursday, August 10th_.--A very hot, showery day. Saw two large ships
+in the distance. In the morning we were almost becalmed for a time,
+but the breeze returned during the afternoon, and we were able to
+proceed on our course. I think this has been the most lovely of the
+many exquisite days we have enjoyed since we left England. It
+commenced with a magnificent sunrise, and ended with an equally
+gorgeous sunset, only to be succeeded by a beautiful moonlight night,
+so clear and bright that we could see to read ordinary print on deck.
+
+_Saturday, August 12th_.--At noon we were 300 miles off Bahia, a place
+we have made up our minds not to visit, as it would lengthen our
+voyage considerably, and there is not much to see there. We have
+therefore decided to proceed direct to Rio, where we are looking
+forward to arrive on Wednesday or Thursday next.
+
+The night was showery, with a good deal of wind and sea.
+
+_Sunday, August 13th_.--Sailing in the tropics is really very
+delightful! When going to the westward, there is almost always, at
+this season of the year, a favourable breeze, and the weather is
+generally either quite fair or moderately so.
+
+    Whispered to it, westward, westward,
+    And with speed it darted forward.
+
+We had service at 11.15 a.m., and again at 5.30 p.m. The choir has
+considerably improved; one of our new men plays the violin very well,
+and frequently accompanies the children and the nurse in their songs.
+On a clear calm night, beneath a tropical sky, when the members of
+this little group assemble on deck, and, by the light of a lantern,
+sing some of their simple songs, the effect produced is both melodious
+and picturesque.
+
+The wind dropped at about 10 p.m., and we had an unpleasant amount of
+roll during the night, sails flapping, spars creaking, and booms
+swinging as if they would pull the masts out of the vessel.
+
+[Illustration: Vespers.]
+
+_Monday, August 14th_.--This morning we saw a small schooner ahead,
+and thinking from her manoeuvres that she wished to speak us, we made
+our number and ran towards her. We soon found out, however, that she
+was a whaler, in chase of two large grampuses. She had two men on the
+look-out in the cross-trees, in a sort of iron cage; and though she
+was of much smaller tonnage than the 'Sunbeam,' she carried five big
+boats, one of which, full of men, was ready to be lowered into the
+water, the instant they had approached sufficiently near to the whale
+or grampus. These seas used formerly to abound with whalers, but they
+are now much less numerous, the seasons having been bad of late.
+
+To-night the stars were especially brilliant, and we spent some hours
+in trying to make out their names. Vega, our polar star for some time
+to come, shone conspicuously bright, and the Southern Cross could be
+seen to great advantage.
+
+_Wednesday, August 16th_.--We had a fine fair breeze all day, and at 5
+p.m. there was a cry from the mast-head of 'Land ahead!' Great
+excitement immediately prevailed on board, and Tom and Captain Brown
+rushed, for about the twelfth time, to the foretop to see if the
+report was true. They were soon able to announce that Cape Frio was
+visible on the port bow, about thirty-five miles distant. After even a
+fortnight at sea, an indescribable sensation is produced by this cry,
+and by the subsequent sight of the land itself. When we came up on
+deck this evening, after dinner, we all gazed on the lighthouse on the
+still distant shore as if we had never beheld such a thing in our
+lives before. The colour and temperature of the water had perceptibly
+changed, the former from a beautiful, clear, dark ultramarine to a
+muddy green; innumerable small birds, moths, locusts, and grasshoppers
+came on board; and, having given special orders that we were to be
+called early the next morning, we went to bed in the fond hope that we
+should be able to enter Rio harbour at daybreak.
+
+_Thursday, August 17th_.--'L'homme propose; Dieu dispose.' Steam was
+up at midnight, but by that time it was blowing half a gale of wind
+from the south-west, with such a steep short sea that the screw was
+scarcely ever properly immersed, but went racing round and round in
+the air with tremendous velocity, as we pitched and rolled about. Our
+progress was therefore at the rate of something rather under a mile
+an hour, and at daybreak, instead of entering the harbour of Rio, as
+we had hoped to do, we found ourselves close to Cape Frio.
+
+About 8 a.m. matters mended, the wind moderating and changing its
+direction slightly; so that, under steam and sail, we were soon going
+along the coast at the rate of four or five miles an hour. The surf
+was breaking with a loud roar upon the white sandy beach, while the
+spray was carried by the force of the wind far inland, over the strip
+of flat fertile-looking country, lying between the sea and a chain of
+low sugarloaf-shaped mountains, parallel with the shore, and only a
+short distance off.
+
+Our course lay between the mainland and the islands of Maya and Payo,
+where the groves of bananas and other trees looked very miserable in
+the wind. The tall isolated palm-trees, whose elastic stems bowed
+readily before the fury of the blast, looked, as they were twisted and
+whirled hither and thither, like umbrellas turned inside out. Passing
+the false Sugarloaf mountain, as it is called, we next opened out the
+true one, the Gavia, and the chain of mountains beyond, the outlines
+of which bear an extraordinary resemblance to the figure of a man
+lying on his back, the profile of the face being very like that of the
+late Duke of Wellington. As the sun sank in gorgeous splendour behind
+these hills, I think I never saw a grander or more beautiful sight;
+though the sky was so red and stormy-looking that our hopes of a fine
+day to-morrow were but faint.
+
+Before entering the harbour, a bar had to be crossed, which is a
+dangerous operation all the world over. The skylights and hatches were
+fastened down, and those of our party who did not like being shut up
+below took their places on the bridge, where, for the first time since
+we left England, it felt really quite cold. As we advanced, the
+beautiful harbour, with its long rows of glittering gas-lights,
+extending for miles on either side of the bay, and illuminating the
+city and suburbs, gradually became visible. On our left lay the two
+islands, Rodonda and Raza, on the latter of which is situated a
+lighthouse. The wind was blowing off the land when we reached the bar,
+so that, after all our preparations, there was hardly any sea to
+encounter, and the moment we were over, the water on the other side
+was perfectly smooth. A gun and a blue light from Fort Santa Cruz,
+answered immediately by a similar signal from Fort Santa Lucia,
+announced our arrival, and we shortly afterwards dropped our anchor in
+the quarantine ground of Rio close to Botafogo Bay, in the noble
+harbour of Nictheroy.
+
+After dinner it rained heavily, and continued to do so during the
+whole night.
+
+[Illustration: Botafogo Bay]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+RIO DE JANEIRO.
+
+   _The sun is warm, the sky is clear,_
+   _The waves are dancing fast and bright,_
+   _Blue isles and snowy mountains wear_
+   _The purple noon's transparent light._
+
+
+_Friday, August 18th_.--The clouds still hung heavy on the hills, or
+rather mountains, which surround the bay, occasionally descending in
+the form of torrents of rain, and hiding everything from our view.
+
+Early in the morning we weighed anchor and steamed up the bay to the
+man-of-war anchorage, a much pleasanter situation than the quarantine
+harbour, where we had brought up last night. About 9.30 a.m. the
+health officers came on board, and half an hour later we had a visit
+from the custom-house official, who required Tom to sign and seal a
+declaration upon oath that he had no cargo on board, and not more coal
+than we absolutely required for our own consumption.
+
+About eleven o'clock we put on our mackintoshes and thick boots, and,
+accompanied by an interpreter, who (together with several washerwomen)
+had suddenly made his appearance on board, rowed ashore, pushing our
+way through crowds of boats laden with fruit and vegetables. The
+landing-place was close to the market, at some broken-down steps, and
+was crowded with chattering negroes, of every shade of colour. The
+quays seemed covered with piles of fruit and vegetables, discharged
+from the boats, the principal produce being sugar-cane, bananas, and
+oranges. Each side street that we came to was a little river, which
+had to be crossed, or rather forded, after paddling through the mud in
+the main thoroughfare.
+
+Our first visit was to the post-office--'no letters'--then to the
+British Consulate--'no letters'--and finally to the Legation, but
+there was nobody at home there; so we set off for the Hôtel des
+Etrangers, to breakfast. Our way lay through the straggling suburbs of
+the city for about two miles, and as we drove along we could see and
+admire, despite the heavy rain, the magnificent groves of palm-trees,
+and the brilliancy and beauty of the tropical vegetation in the
+various private and public gardens that we passed.
+
+After breakfast we returned to the Legation, where we were most kindly
+received, but, much to our regret, no letters were forthcoming. We
+next paid a visit to some of the shops in the Rua do Ouvidor, for the
+sale of imitations of flowers, made from the undyed feathers of birds,
+and a large number of the more expensive varieties of ordinary
+artificial flowers, each petal consisting of the entire throat or
+breast of a humming-bird, and the leaves are made from the wings of
+beetles. They are very rare and beautiful, their manufacture being
+quite a _spécialité_ of this city. The prices asked astonished us
+greatly; the cost of five sprays, which I had been commissioned to
+buy, was 29_l_., and the price of all the others was proportionately
+high. But then they wear for ever. I have had some for nine years, and
+they are as good now as when they were bought.
+
+_Saturday, August 19th_.--Though far from brilliant, the weather
+improved, and we were able to enjoy occasional glimpses of the
+beautiful scenery around us.
+
+Mr. Gough and Mr. O'Conor breakfasted with us on board, and we
+afterwards proceeded in a 'bond' to the Botanical Gardens, about seven
+miles out of the city. These 'bonds,' which are a great institution
+here, are large carriages, either open or closed, drawn sometimes by
+one, sometimes by two, sometimes by three mules. They go at a great
+pace, and run very smoothly. Ordinary carriages are dear; and as
+tramways have been laid down in almost every street and road, driving
+is a rather difficult affair. On our road we passed several
+delightful-looking private gardens. The railings were completely
+covered, some with white stephanotis and scarlet lapageria, others
+with a beautiful orange-coloured creeper and lilac bougainvillæa, or
+passion-flowers of many colours and variety. Inside we could see large
+trees with green and yellow stripes, croton-oil plants, spotted and
+veined caladiums, and dracænas, the whole being shaded by
+orange-trees.
+
+Along the edge of Botafogo Bay there is a delightful drive, beneath a
+splendid avenue of imperial palms, extending to the gates of the
+Botanical Gardens. Each specimen rises straight up like the column of
+an Egyptian temple, and is crowned with a feathery tuft of large shiny
+dark green leaves, some thirty feet in length. The clumps of bamboos,
+too, were very fine, and nearly all the trees seemed to be full of
+curious orchids and parasites of every sort and kind.
+
+We had an agreeable drive back in the cool evening to dinner at the
+Hôtel de l'Europe. The food was excellent, and included some delicious
+tiny queer-shaped oysters, which are found on the mangrove-trees,
+overhanging the water higher up the bay. We afterwards went to a
+pleasant little reception, where we enjoyed the splendid singing of
+some young Brazilian ladies, and the subsequent row off to the yacht,
+in the moonlight, was not the least delightful part of the programme.
+
+_Sunday, August 20th_.--At last a really fine day. We could now, for
+the first time, thoroughly appreciate the beauties of the noble bay of
+Nictheroy, though the distant Organ mountains were still hidden from
+our view. In the morning, we went to church on board H.M.S. 'Volage,'
+afterwards rowing across the bay to Icaraky, where we took the tramway
+to Santa Rosa. On our way we again passed many charming villas and
+gardens, similar to those we had admired yesterday, while the glorious
+and ever-attractive tropical vegetation abounded everywhere. In spite
+of the great heat, the children seemed untiring in the pursuit of
+butterflies, of which they succeeded in catching many beautiful
+specimens.
+
+_Monday, August 21st_.--After an early breakfast, we started off to
+have a look at the market. The greatest bustle and animation
+prevailed, and there were people and things to see and observe in
+endless variety. The fish-market was full of finny monsters of the
+deep, all new and strange to us, whose odd Brazilian names would
+convey to a stranger but little idea of the fish themselves. There was
+an enormous rockfish, weighing about 300 pounds, with hideous face and
+shiny back and fins; there were large ray, and skate, and
+cuttle-fish--the _pieuvre_ of Victor Hugo's 'Travailleurs de la
+Mer'--besides baskets full of the large prawns for which the coast is
+famous, eight or ten inches long, and with antennæ of twelve or
+fourteen inches in length. They make up in size for want of quality,
+for they are insipid and tasteless, though, being tender, they make
+excellent curry. The oysters, on the other hand, are particularly
+small, but of the most delicious flavour. They are brought from a
+park, higher up the bay, where, as I have said, they grow on posts and
+the branches of the mangrove-tree, which hang down into the water. We
+also saw a large quantity of fine mackerel, a good many turtle and
+porpoises, and a few hammer-headed sharks. The latter are very curious
+creatures, not unlike an ordinary shark, but with a remarkable
+hammer-shaped projection on either side of their noses for which it is
+difficult to imagine a use.
+
+In the fruit-market were many familiar bright-coloured fruits; for it
+is now the depth of winter at Rio, and the various kinds that we saw
+were all such as would bear transport to England. Fat, jet-black
+negresses, wearing turbans on their heads, strings of coloured beads
+on their necks and arms, and single long white garments, which
+appeared to be continually slipping off their shoulders, here presided
+over brilliant-looking heaps of oranges, bananas, pineapples,
+passion-fruit, tomatoes, apples, pears, capsicums and peppers,
+sugar-cane, cabbage-palms, cherimoyas, and bread-fruit.
+
+In another part of the market all sorts of live birds were for sale,
+with a few live beasts, such as deer, monkeys, pigs, guinea-pigs in
+profusion, rats, cats, dogs, marmosets, and a dear little lion-monkey,
+very small and rather red, with a beautiful head and mane, who roared
+exactly like a real lion in miniature. We saw also cages full of small
+flamingoes, snipe of various kinds, and a great many birds of smaller
+size, with feathers of all shades of blue, red, and green, and
+metallic hues of brilliant lustre, besides parrots, macaws, cockatoos
+innumerable, and torchas, on stands. The torcha is a bright-coloured
+black and yellow bird, about as big as a starling, which puts its
+little head on one side and takes flies from one's fingers in the
+prettiest and most enticing manner. Unfortunately, it is impossible to
+introduce it into England, as it cannot stand the change of climate.
+The other birds included guinea-fowls, ducks, cocks and hens, pigeons,
+doves, quails, &c., and many other varieties less familiar or quite
+unknown to us. Altogether the visit was an extremely interesting one,
+and well repaid us for our early rising.
+
+At eleven o'clock we started for the Petropolis steamer, which took us
+alongside a wooden pier, from the end of which the train started, and
+we were soon wending our way through sugar and coffee plantations,
+formed in the midst of the forest of palms and other tropical trees.
+An Englishman has made a large clearing here, and has established a
+fine farm, which he hopes to work successfully by means of immigrant
+labour.
+
+After a journey of twenty minutes in the train, we reached the
+station, at the foot of a hill, where we found several four-mule
+carriages awaiting our arrival. The drive up from the station to the
+town, over a pass in the Organ mountains, was superb. At each turn of
+the road we had an ever-varying view of the city of Rio and its
+magnificent bay. And then the banks of this tropical high-road! From
+out a mass of rich verdure grew lovely scarlet begonias, and spotted
+caladiums, shaded by graceful tree-ferns and overhung by trees full of
+exquisite parasites and orchids. Among these, the most conspicuous,
+after the palms, are the tall thin-stemmed sloth-trees, so called from
+their being a favourite resort of the sloth, who with great difficulty
+crawls up into one of them, remains there until he has demolished
+every leaf, and then passes on to the next tree.
+
+The pace of the mules, up the steep incline, under a broiling sun, was
+really wonderful. Half-way up we stopped to change, at a buvette,
+where we procured some excellent Brazilia coffee, of fine but
+exceedingly bitter flavour. Our next halt, midway between the buvette
+and the top of the hill, was at a spring of clear sparkling water,
+where we had an opportunity of collecting some ferns and flowers; and
+on reaching the summit we stopped once more, to enjoy the fine view
+over the Pass and the bay of Nictheroy. The descent towards Petropolis
+then commenced; it lies in the hollow of the hills, with a river
+flowing through the centre of its broad streets, on either side of
+which are villas and avenues of noble trees. Altogether it reminded me
+of Bagnères-de-Luchon, in the Pyrenees, though the general effect is
+unfortunately marred by the gay and rather too fantastic painting of
+some of the houses.
+
+_Tuesday, August 22nd_.--We were called at half-past five, and, after
+a hasty breakfast, started on horseback by seven o'clock for the
+Virgin Forest, about six miles from Petropolis. After leaving the town
+and its suburbs, we pursued our way by rough winding paths, across
+which huge moths and butterflies flitted, and humming-birds buzzed in
+the almond-trees. After a ride of an hour and a half, we entered the
+silence and gloom of a vast forest. On every side extended a tangled
+mass of wild, luxuriant vegetation: giant-palms, and tree-ferns, and
+parasites are to be seen in all directions, growing wherever they can
+find root-hold. Sometimes they kill the tree which they favour with
+their attentions--one creeper, in particular, being called 'Mata-pao'
+or 'Kill-tree;' but, as a rule, they seem to get on very well
+together, and to depend mutually upon one another for nourishment and
+support. The most striking of these creepers is, perhaps, the liane,
+whose tendrils grow straight downwards to the ground, twisting
+themselves together in knots and bundles. Occasionally one sees,
+suspended from a tree, at a height of some fifty feet, a large lump of
+moss, from which scarlet orchids are growing; looking like an enormous
+hanging flower-basket. All colours in Brazil, whether of birds,
+insects, or flowers, are brilliant in the extreme. Blue, violet,
+orange, scarlet, and yellow are found in the richest profusion, and no
+pale or faint tints are to be seen. Even white seems purer, clearer,
+and deeper than the white of other countries.
+
+We had a long wet walk in the forest; the mosses and ferns being kept
+moist and green by the innumerable little streams of water which
+abound everywhere. Owing to the thickness of the surrounding jungle,
+it was impossible to stray from our very narrow path, notwithstanding
+the attractions of humming-birds, butterflies, and flowers. At last we
+came to an opening in the wood, whence we had a splendid view
+seawards, and where it was decided to turn round and retrace our steps
+through the forest. After walking some distance we found our horses
+waiting, and after a hot but pleasant ride reached Petropolis by
+twelve o'clock, in time for breakfast. Letter-writing and
+butterfly-catching occupied the afternoon until four o'clock, when I
+was taken out for a drive in a comfortable little phaeton, with a
+pretty pair of horses, while the rest of the party walked out to see a
+little more of Petropolis and its environs. We drove past the
+Emperor's palace--an Italian villa, standing in the middle of a large
+garden--the new church, and the houses of the principal inhabitants,
+most of which are shut up just now, as everybody is out of town, but
+it all looked very green and pleasant. It was interesting to see a
+curious breed of dogs, descended from the bloodhounds formerly used in
+hunting the poor Indians.
+
+_Wednesday, August 23rd_.--At six o'clock we assembled all on the
+balcony of the hotel to wait for the coach, which arrived shortly
+afterwards. There was some little delay and squabbling before we all
+found ourselves safely established on the coach, but starting was
+quite another matter, for the four white mules resolutely refused to
+move, without a vast amount of screaming and shouting and plunging. We
+had to pull up once or twice before we got clear of the town, to allow
+more passengers to be somehow or other squeezed in, and at each fresh
+start similar objections on the part of the mules had to be overcome.
+
+The air felt fresh when we started, but before we had proceeded far we
+came into a thick, cold, wet fog, which, after the heat of the last
+few weeks, seemed to pierce us to the very marrow. Eight miles farther
+on the four frisky white mules were exchanged for five steady
+dun-coloured ones, which were in their turn replaced after a
+seven-mile stage by four nice bays, who took us along at a tremendous
+pace. The sun began by this time to penetrate the mist, and the
+surrounding country became visible. We found that we were following
+the course of the river, passing through an avenue of coral-trees,
+loaded with the most brilliant flowers and fruit imaginable, and full
+of parroquets and fluttering birds of many hues.
+
+We stopped at several small villages, and at about 11 a.m. reached
+Entre Rios, having changed mules seven times, and done the 59-1/2
+miles in four hours and fifty minutes, including stoppages--pretty
+good work, especially as the heat during the latter portion of the
+journey had been as great as the cold was at the commencement. The
+term 'cold' must here be taken only in a relative sense, for the
+thermometer was never lower than 48°, though, having been accustomed
+for a long while to 85°, we felt the change severely.
+
+After a capital breakfast at the inn near the station, we got into the
+train and began a very hot dusty journey over the Serra to Palmeiras,
+which place was reached at 4 p.m. We were met on our arrival by Dr.
+Gunning, who kindly made room for Tom and me at his house, the rest of
+our party proceeding to the hotel. The view from the windows of the
+house, which is situated on the very edge of a hill, over the
+mountains of the Serra, glowing with the light of the setting sun, was
+perfectly enchanting; and after a refreshing cold bath one was able to
+appreciate it as it deserved. A short stroll into the forest adjoining
+the house proved rich in treasures, for in a few minutes I had
+gathered twenty-six varieties of ferns, including gold and silver
+ferns, two creeping ferns, and many other kinds. The moon rose, and
+the fireflies flashed about among the palm-trees, as we sat in the
+verandah before dinner, while in several places on the distant hills
+we could see circles of bright flames, where the forest had been set
+on fire in order to make clearings.
+
+We were up next morning in time to see the sun rise from behind the
+mountains, and as it gradually became warmer the humming-birds and
+butterflies came out and buzzed and flitted among the flowers in front
+of our windows. We had planned to devote the day to a visit to Barra,
+and it was, therefore, necessary to hurry to the station by eight
+o'clock to meet the train, where we stopped twenty minutes to
+breakfast at what appeared to be a capital hotel, built above the
+station. The rooms were large and lofty, everything was scrupulously
+clean, and the dishes most appetising-looking. Our carriage was then
+shunted and hooked on to the other train, and we proceeded to the
+station of Santa Anna, where Mr. Faro met us with eight mules and
+horses, and a large old-fashioned carriage, which held some of us, the
+rest of the party galloping on in front. We galloped also, and upset
+one unfortunate horse, luckily without doing him any harm. After a
+couple of miles of a rough road we arrived at the gates of the Baron's
+grounds, where the old negro slave-coachman amused us very much by
+_ordering_ his young master to conduct the equestrians round to the
+house by another way. Beneath the avenue of palm-trees, leading from
+the gates to the house, grew orange, lemon, and citron trees, trained
+as espaliers, while behind them again tall rose-bushes and
+pomegranates showed their bright faces. Driving through an archway we
+arrived at the house, and, with much politeness and many bows, were
+conducted indoors, in order that we might rest ourselves and get rid
+of some of the dust of our journey.
+
+Santa Anna is one of the largest coffee fazendas in this part of
+Brazil. The house occupies three sides of a square, in the middle of
+which heaps of coffee were spread out to dry in the sun. The centre
+building is the dwelling-house, with a narrow strip of garden, full of
+sweet-smelling flowers, in front of it; the right wing is occupied by
+the slaves' shops and warehouses, and by the chapel; while the left
+wing contains the stables, domestic offices, and other slave-rooms.
+
+[Illustration: The Slave Village, Fazenda, Santa Anna.]
+
+By law, masters are bound to give their slaves one day's rest in every
+seven, and any work the slaves may choose to do on that day is paid
+for at the same rate as free labour. But the day selected for this
+purpose is not necessarily Sunday; and on adjoining fazendas different
+days are invariably chosen, in order to prevent the slaves from
+meeting and getting into mischief. Thursday (to-day) was Sunday on
+this estate, and we soon saw all the slaves mustering in holiday
+attire in the shade of one of the verandahs. They were first
+inspected, and then ranged in order, the children being placed in
+front, the young women next, then the old women, the old men, and
+finally the young men. In this order they marched into the corridor
+facing the chapel, to hear mass. The priest and his acolyte, in
+gorgeous robes, performed the usual service, and the slaves chanted
+the responses in alternate companies, so that sopranos, contraltos,
+tenors, and basses, contrasted in a striking and effective manner. The
+singing, indeed, was excellent; far better than in many churches at
+home. After the conclusion of the mass the master shook hands with
+everybody, exchanged good wishes with his slaves, and dismissed them.
+While they were dawdling about, gossiping in the verandah, I had a
+closer look at the babies, which had all been brought to church. They
+seemed of every shade of colour, the complexions of some being quite
+fair, but the youngest, a dear little woolly-headed thing, was black
+as jet, and only three weeks old. The children all seemed to be on
+very good terms with their master and his overseers, and not a bit
+afraid of them. They are fed most liberally, and looked fat and
+healthy. For breakfast they have coffee and bread; for dinner, fresh
+pork alternately with dried beef, and black beans (the staple food of
+the poor of this country); and for supper they have coffee, bread, and
+mandioca, or tapioca.
+
+Returning to the house, we sat down, a party of thirty, to an
+elaborate breakfast, the table being covered with all sorts of
+Brazilian delicacies, after which several complimentary speeches were
+made, and we all started off to walk round the fazenda. Our first
+visit was to the little schoolchildren, thirty-four in number, who
+sang very nicely. Then to the hospital, a clean, airy building, in
+which there were happily but few patients, and next we inspected the
+new machinery, worked by water-power, for cleaning the coffee and
+preparing it for market. The harvest lasts from May to August. The
+best quality of coffee is picked before it is quite ripe, crushed to
+free it from the husk, and then dried in the sun, sometimes in heaps,
+and sometimes raked out flat, in order to gain the full benefit of the
+heat. It is afterwards gathered up into baskets and carefully picked
+over, and this, being very light work, is generally performed by young
+married women with babies. There were nineteen tiny piccaninnies, in
+baskets, beside their mothers, in one room we entered, and in another
+there were twenty just able to run about.
+
+Cassava is an important article of food here, and it was interesting
+to watch the various processes by which it is turned into flour,
+tapioca, or starch. As it is largely exported, there seems no reason
+why it should not be introduced into India, for the ease with which it
+is cultivated and propagated, the extremes of temperature it will
+bear, and the abundance of its crop, all tend to recommend it. We went
+on to look at the maize being shelled, crushed, and ground into coarse
+or fine flour, for cakes and bread, and the process of crushing the
+sugar-cane, turning its juice into sugar and rum, and its refuse into
+potash. All the food manufactured here is used on the estate; coffee
+alone is exported. I felt thoroughly exhausted by the time we returned
+to the house, only to exchange adieus and step into the carriage on
+our way to Barra by rail _en route_ to Rio de Janeiro. After passing
+through several long tunnels at the top of the Serra, the line drops
+down to Palmeiras, after which the descent became very picturesque, as
+we passed, by steep inclines, through virgin forests full of creepers,
+ferns, flowers, and orchids. The sunset was magnificent, and the
+subsequent coolness of the atmosphere most grateful. Leaving the
+Emperor's palace of São Christovão behind, Rio was entered from a
+fresh side. It seemed a long drive through the streets to the Hôtel de
+l'Europe, where, after an excellent though hurried dinner, we
+contrived to be in time for a private representation at the Alcazar.
+As a rule, ladies do not go to this theatre, but there were a good
+many there on the present occasion. Neither the play nor the actors,
+however, were very interesting, and all our party were excessively
+tired; so we left early, and had a delightful row off to the yacht, in
+the bright moonlight.
+
+_Monday, August 28th_.--We have all been so much interested in the
+advertisements we read in the daily papers of slaves to be sold or
+hired, that arrangements were made with a Brazilian gentleman for some
+of our party to have an opportunity of seeing the way in which these
+transactions are carried on. No Englishman is allowed to hold slaves
+here, and it is part of the business of the Legation to see that this
+law is strictly enforced. The secrets of their trade are accordingly
+jealously guarded by the natives, especially from the English. The
+gentlemen had therefore to disguise themselves as much as possible,
+one pretending to be a rich Yankee, who had purchased large estates
+between Santos and San Paulo, which he had determined to work with
+slave instead of coolie labour. He was supposed to have come to Rio to
+select some slaves, but would be obliged to see and consult his
+partner before deciding on purchase. They were taken to a small shop
+in the city, and, after some delay, were conducted to a room upstairs,
+where they waited a quarter of an hour. Twenty-two men and eleven
+women and children were then brought in for inspection. They declared
+themselves suitable for a variety of occupations, in-door and out, and
+all appeared to look anxiously at their possible purchaser, with a
+view to ascertain what they had to hope for in the future. One couple
+in particular, a brother and sister, about fourteen and fifteen years
+old respectively, were most anxious not to be separated, but to be
+sold together; and the tiny children seemed quite frightened at being
+spoken to or touched by the white men. Eight men and five women having
+been specially selected as fit subjects for further consideration, the
+visit terminated.
+
+The daily Brazilian papers are full of advertisements of slaves for
+sale, and descriptions of men, pigs, children, cows, pianos, women,
+houses, &c., to be disposed of, are inserted in the most
+indiscriminate manner. In one short half-column of the 'Jornal do
+Commercio,' published within the last day or two, the following
+announcements, amongst many similar ones, appear side by side:--
+
+
+VENDE-SE uma escrava, de 22 annos,
+boa figura, lava, engomma e cose bem;
+informa-se na rua de S. Pedro n. 97.
+
+FOR SALE.--A female slave, 22 years of
+age, a good figure, washes, irons, and
+sews well; for particulars apply at No. 97
+rua de S. Pedro.
+
+
+VENDE-SE ou aluga-se um rico piano
+forte do autor Erard, de 3 cordas, por
+280$, garantido; na rua da Quitanda n. 42,
+2 andar.
+
+FOR SALE, OR TO BE LET ON
+Hire.--A splendid trichord pianoforte
+by Erard, for $280, guaranteed; apply at
+rua da Quitanda No. 42, 2nd floor.
+
+
+VENDE-SE, por 1,500$, um escravo de
+20 annos, para serviço de padaria; na
+rua da Princeza dos Cajueiros n. 97.
+
+TO BE SOLD FOR $1,500.--A male
+slave 20 years of age, fit for a baker's
+establishment; apply at rua da Princeza dos
+Cajueiros No. 97.
+
+
+VENDE-SE uma machina Singer, para
+qualquer costura, trabalha perfeitamente,
+por preço muito commodo; trata-se
+na rua do Sabão n. 95.
+
+FOR SALE.--On very reasonable terms,
+a Singer's sewing-machine, adapted for
+any description of work; works splendidly:
+apply at No. 95 rua do Sabão.
+
+
+VENDE-SE uma preta moça, boa figura e
+de muito boa indole, com tres filhos,
+sendo uma negrinha de 6 annos, um moleque
+de 5 e uma ingenua de 3, cabenda cozinhar
+bem, lavar e engommar; na mesma casa
+vende-se só uma negrinha de 12 annos, de
+conducta afiançada e muito propria para
+serviço de casa de familia, por ja ter bons
+principios, tendo vindo de Santa Catharina;
+na rua da Uruguayana n. 90 sobrado.
+
+FOR SALE.--A good black woman, good
+figure, good disposition, with three
+children, who are a little black girl 6 years
+of age, a black boy of 5, and a child 3
+years of age; she is a good cook, washes and
+irons well. At the same house there is likewise
+for sale a little black girl 12 years of
+age: her character will be guaranteed; she
+is well adapted for the service of a family,
+as she has had a good beginning, having
+come from Santa Catharina; apply at No.
+90 rua da Uruguayana, first floor.
+
+
+VENDE-SE o Diccionario portuguez de
+Lacerda, em dous grandes volumes, novo,
+vindo pelo ultimo paquete, por 30$, custão
+aqui 40$; na rua do Hospicio n. 15, 2º
+andar.
+
+FOR SALE.--Lacerda's Portuguese Dictionary,
+in two large volumes, quite new,
+arrived by the last mail, price $30, costs here
+$40; No. 15 rua do Hospicio, 2nd floor.
+
+
+VENDE-SE uma preta de meia idade,
+que cozinha, lava, e engomma com perfeição;
+para tratar na rua do Viscande de
+Itaúna n. 12.
+
+FOR SALE.--A middle-aged black woman,
+who is a first-rate cook, washes
+and irons splendidly; for particulars apply
+at No. 12 rua do Viscande de Itaúna No.
+12.
+
+
+VENDEM-SE arreios para carrocinhas
+de pão; na rua do General Camara n.
+86, placa.
+
+FOR SALE.--Harnesses for small carts
+for delivery of bread; apply at No. 86
+rua do General Camara.
+
+
+VENDEM-SE 20 moleques, de 14 a 20
+annos, vindos do Maranhão no ultimo
+vapor; na rua da Prainha n. 72.
+
+FOR SALE.--20 young blacks from 14
+to 20 years of age just arrived from Maranham
+by the last steamer; No. 72 rua da
+Prainha.
+
+We had many visitors to breakfast to-day, and it was nearly two
+o'clock before we could set off for the shore _en route_ to Tijuca. We
+drove nearly as far as the Botanical Gardens, where it had been
+arranged that horses should meet us; but our party was such a large
+one, including children and servants, that some little difficulty
+occurred at this point in making a fair start. It was therefore late
+before we started, the clouds were beginning to creep down the sides
+of the hills, and it had grown very dusk by the time we reached the
+Chinisi river. Soon afterwards the rain began to come down in such
+tropical torrents, that our thin summer clothing was soaked through
+and through long before we reached the Tijuca. At last, to our great
+joy, we saw ahead of us large plantations of bananas, and then some
+gas-lights, which exist even in this remote locality. We followed them
+for some little distance, but my horse appeared to have such a very
+decided opinion as to the proper direction for us to take, that we
+finally decided to let him have his own way, for it was by this time
+pitch dark, and none of us had ever been this road before. As we
+hoped, the horse knew his own stables, and we soon arrived at the door
+of White's hotel, miserable, drenched objects, looking forward to a
+complete change of clothing. Unfortunately the cart with our luggage
+had not arrived, so it was in clothes borrowed from kind friends that
+we at last sat down, a party of about forty, to a sort of table-d'hôte
+dinner, and it continued to pour with rain during the whole evening,
+only clearing up just at bed-time.
+
+_Tuesday, August 29th_.--After all the fine weather we have had
+lately, it was provoking to find, on getting up this morning, that the
+rain still came steadily down. Daylight enabled us to see what a
+quaint-looking place this hotel is. It consists of a series of low
+wooden detached buildings, mostly one story high, with verandahs on
+both sides, built round a long courtyard, in the centre of which are a
+garden and some large trees. It is more like a boarding-house,
+however, than an hotel, as there is a fixed daily charge for visitors,
+who have to be provided with a letter of introduction! The situation
+and gardens are good; it contains among other luxuries a
+drawing-room, with a delightful swimming-bath for ladies, and another
+for gentlemen. A mountain stream is turned into two large square
+reservoirs, where you can disport yourself under the shade of bananas
+and palm trees, while orange trees, daturas, poinsettias, and other
+plants, in full bloom, drop their fragrant flowers into the crystal
+water. There is also a nice little bathing-house, with a douche
+outside; and the general arrangements seem really perfect. The views
+from the walks around the hotel and in the forest above are beautiful,
+as, indeed, they are from every eminence in the neighbourhood of Rio.
+
+During the morning, the weather cleared sufficiently for us to go down
+to 'The Boulders,' huge masses of rock, either of the glacial period,
+or else thrown out from some mighty volcano into the valley beneath.
+Here they form great caverns and caves, overhung with creepers, and so
+blocked up at the entrance, that it is difficult to find the way into
+them. The effect of the alternate darkness and light, amid twisted
+creepers, some like gigantic snakes, others neatly coiled in true
+man-of-war fashion, is very striking and fantastic. Every crevice is
+full of ferns and orchids and curious plants, while moths and
+butterflies flit about in every direction. Imagine, if you can,
+scarlet butterflies gaily spotted, yellow butterflies with orange
+edgings, butterflies with dark blue velvety-looking upper wings, the
+under surface studded with bright owl-like peacock eyes, grey Atlas
+moths, and, crowning beauty of all, metallic blue butterflies, which
+are positively dazzling, even when seen in a shop, dead. Imagine what
+they must be like, as they dart hither and thither, reflecting the
+bright sunshine from their wings, or enveloped in the sombre shade of
+a forest. Most of them measure from two to ten inches in length from
+wing to wing, and many others flit about, equally remarkable for their
+beauty, though not so large. Swallow-tails, of various colours, with
+tails almost as long, in proportion to their bodies, as those of their
+feathered namesakes; god-parents and 'eighty-eights,' with the
+figures 88 plainly marked on the reverse side of their rich blue or
+crimson wings. In fact, if nature could by any possibility be gaudy,
+one might almost say that she is so in this part of the world.
+
+From 'The Boulders' we went down a kind of natural staircase in the
+rock to the small cascade, which, owing to the recent rains, appeared
+to the best advantage, the black rocks and thick vegetation forming a
+fine background to the sheet of flowing white water and foam. Our way
+lay first through some castor-oil plantations, and then along the side
+of a stream, fringed with rare ferns, scarlet begonias, and grey
+ageratum. We returned to the hotel, too late for the general luncheon,
+and, after a short rest, went out for a gallop in the direction of the
+peak of Tijuca, past the large waterfall, the 'Ladies' Mile,' and
+'Grey's View.' The forest is Government property; the roads are
+therefore excellent, and are in many places planted with flowers and
+shrubs, rare even here. It seems a waste of money, however; for there
+is hardly any one to make use of the wide roads, and the forest would
+appear quite as beautiful in its pristine luxuriance. To our eyes the
+addition of flowers from other countries is no improvement, though the
+feeling is otherwise here. More than once I have had a bouquet of
+common stocks given to me as a grand present, while orchids,
+gardenias, stephanotis, large purple, pink, and white azaleas,
+orange-blossom, and roses, were growing around in unheeded profusion.
+
+_Wednesday, August 30th_.--Once more a wet morning; but as it cleared
+towards noon, we ordered horses and some luncheon, and went up to
+Pedro Bonito. The ride was pleasant enough at first, but as we mounted
+higher and higher, we got into the clouds and lost the view. Finally,
+there seemed nothing for it but to halt near the top, under a grove of
+orange-trees, lunch in the pouring rain, and return without having
+reached the summit.
+
+_Friday, September 1st_.--At three o'clock this morning, when I
+awoke, I saw at last a bright, clear sky, and at five, finding that
+there was every prospect of a beautiful sunrise, we sent for horses,
+ate our early breakfast, and set off for the peak of Tijuca. Step by
+step we climbed, first through the grounds of the hotel, then through
+the forest, till we reached 'The Bamboos,' a favourite halting-place,
+by the side of a stream, near which grow, in waving tufts, the
+graceful trees which lend their name to the spot. It was very
+beautiful in the hill-side forest, with a new prospect opening out at
+every step, and set in an ever-varying natural framework of foliage
+and flowers. There was not sufficient time to linger, however, as we
+would fain have done, in the cool and shady paths, occasionally
+illumed by the bright rays of the sun, shining through the foliage of
+noble palms, the fronds of tree-ferns, and the spiral stems of
+many-coloured creepers.
+
+Before reaching the top of the peak, there are twenty-nine wooden and
+ninety-six stone steps to be ascended, at the foot of which we tied
+our horses. An iron chain is hung by the side to assist you, without
+which it would be rather giddy work, for the steps are steep, and
+there is a sheer precipice on one side of them. Arrived at the top,
+the scene was glorious; on every side mountains beyond mountains
+stretch far away into the distance, and one can see as far north as
+Cape Frio, and southwards as far as Rio Grande do Sul, while beneath
+lies the bay of Rio, with its innumerable islands, islets, and
+indentations. All too soon we had to scramble down again, and mount
+our horses for a hurried return to the hotel, there being barely time
+for lunch and a scramble to the yacht.
+
+_Monday, September 4th_.--We were all up very early this morning,
+superintending the preparations for our eldest boy's departure for
+England. The yacht had been gaily dressed with flags, in honour of the
+anniversary of the Emperor's wedding-day; but it must be confessed
+that our own feelings were hardly in accordance with these external
+symbols of joy. Breakfast was a melancholy meal, and I fear that the
+visitors from the 'Volage' were not very well entertained. After
+breakfast, we went ashore to the market, to get a couple of
+lion-monkeys, which had been kept for us, and which Tab was to take
+home with him to present to the Zoological Gardens. At one o'clock the
+steam-launch from the 'Volage' came alongside and embarked the luggage
+and servants. Half an hour later it returned for us; then came many
+tearful farewells to the crew, and we set off. We knew the parting had
+to be made, but this did not lessen our grief: for although it is at
+all times hard to say good-bye for a long period to those nearest and
+dearest to you, it is especially so in a foreign land, with the
+prospect of a long voyage on both sides. Moreover, it is extremely
+uncertain when we shall hear of our boy's safe arrival; not, I fear,
+until we get to Valparaiso, and then only by telegram--a long time to
+look forward to. Over the next half-hour I had better draw a veil.
+
+At two o'clock precisely, just after we had left the steamer, the
+starting bell rang, and the 'Cotopaxi' steamed away. As she passed the
+yacht, all our flags were dipped and the guns fired. Then we could see
+her rolling on the bar, for, calm as the water was in the bay, there
+was a heavy swell outside; and then, all too soon, we lost sight of
+her, as she sank,
+
+    ' ... with all we love, below the verge.'
+
+We heard to-day that, the Saturday before our first arrival at Rio,
+the bar was quite impassable, even for a man-of-war, and that,
+although she succeeded the next day, the sea was extremely rough.
+
+On our return to the 'Sunbeam,' I went to bed to rest, and the
+remainder of the party went ashore. A great many visitors came on
+board in the course of the afternoon; some remained to dine with us.
+At half-past nine we all went on shore again to a ball at the Casino,
+the grand public room in Rio, to which we had been invited some days
+ago. It seemed a splendid place, beautifully decorated in white and
+gold and crimson, with frescoes and pictures let into the walls, and
+surrounded by galleries. It is capable of containing fifteen hundred
+persons, and I believe that there were even more than that number
+present on the occasion of the ball given to the Duke of Edinburgh
+some years ago. The arrangement of the large cloakrooms,
+refreshment-rooms, and passages downstairs, and the balconies and
+supper-rooms upstairs, is very convenient. The ball this evening being
+comparatively a small affair, the lower rooms only were used, and
+proved amply sufficient. There were not a great many ladies present,
+but amongst those we saw some were extremely pretty, and all were
+exquisitely dressed in the latest fashions from Paris. The toilettes
+of the younger ones looked fresh and simple, while those of the
+married ladies displayed considerable richness and taste; for although
+Brazilian ladies do not go out much, and, as a rule, remain _en
+peignoir_ until late in the afternoon, they never fail to exhibit
+great judgment in the selection of their costumes.
+
+The floor was excellent, but the band made rather too much noise, and
+the dancing was different, both in style and arrangement, from what we
+are accustomed to at home.
+
+The time had now come when we had to say farewell to the many kind
+friends whom we have met here, and who have made life so pleasant to
+us during the last three weeks, in order that we might return to the
+yacht, to complete our preparation for an early start. The last
+leave-takings were soon over, and, with mutually expressed hopes that
+we might ere long meet some of our friends in England, Tom and I drove
+off, in the bright moonlight, to the quay, where our boat was waiting
+for us. The other members of our party found the attractions of the
+ball so irresistible that they were unable to tear themselves away
+until a much later nour.
+
+[Illustration: The Three Navigators]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+
+THE RIVER PLATE.
+
+    _Blue, glossy green, and velvet black,_
+    _They coiled and swam; and every track_
+    _Was a flash of golden fire._
+
+_Tuesday, September 5th_.--We got under way at 6 a.m., and soon bade
+adieu to Rio, where we have spent so many happy days, and to our
+friends on board H.M.S. 'Volage' and 'Ready,' with whom we
+interchanged salutes in passing. It was a dull wet morning, and we
+could not see much of the beauties we were leaving behind us. The peak
+of Tijuca and the summit of the Corcovado were scarcely visible, and
+the Sugarloaf and Gavia looked cold and grey in the early mist. It was
+not long before we were rolling on the bar, and then tumbling about in
+very uncomfortable fashion in the rough sea outside. One by one we all
+disappeared below, where most of us remained during the greater part
+of the day. As for me, I went to bed for good at six o'clock in the
+evening, but was called up again at ten, to see some large bonitos
+playing about the bows of the yacht. It was really worth the trouble
+of getting up and climbing quite into the bows of the vessel to watch
+them, as they gambolled and frisked about, brightly illumined by the
+phosphorescence of the water, now swimming together steadily in pairs
+or fours, now starting in sudden pursuit of one of their number, who
+would make an independent rush forward in advance of his companions.
+
+_Saturday, September 9th_.--The last three days have been showery,
+with squalls which have freshened to a gale, and we are now scudding
+along, under all storm canvas, followed by crowds of cape-pigeons and
+cape-hens, and a few albatrosses. Towards this evening, however, the
+wind fell light, and we got up steam, in order to be prepared for any
+emergency, as a calm is frequently succeeded on this coast by a
+_pampero_, and we are now approaching a lee shore.
+
+_Sunday, September 10th_.--Tom has been on deck nearly all night. The
+shore is very low and difficult to distinguish, and the lights are
+badly kept. If the lighthouse-keeper happens to have plenty of oil,
+and is not out shooting or fishing, he lights his lamp; otherwise, he
+omits to perform this rather important part of his duties. The
+lighthouses can therefore hardly be said to be of much use. About 5
+a.m. Kindred rushed down into our cabin, and woke Tom, calling out,
+'Land to leeward, sir!' and then rushed up on deck again. The first
+glimmer of dawn had enabled him to see that we were running straight
+on to the low sandy shore, about three miles off, a very strong
+current having set us ten miles out of our course. The yacht's head
+was accordingly at once put round, and steaming seaward we soon left
+all danger behind. The sun rose brilliantly, and the weather during
+the day was very fine. Morning service was impossible, owing to the
+necessity for a constant observation of the land; but, after making
+the lighthouse on Santa Maria, we had prayers at 4.30 p.m., with the
+hymn, 'For those at Sea.' In the night we made the light on Flores,
+burning brightly, and before morning those in the harbour of Monte
+Video.
+
+_Monday, September 11th_.--After making the Flores light we proceeded
+slowly, and dropped our anchor in the outer roads of Monte Video at 4
+a.m. At seven o'clock we got it up again, and by eight were anchored
+close to the shore. We found that our arrival was expected, and the
+health-officers' boat was soon alongside. Next came an officer from
+the United States' man-of-war 'Frolic,' with polite messages and
+offers of service; and then a steam-launch belonging to the Pacific
+Company, and another from the Consul, Major Monro, with piles of
+letters and newspapers for us.
+
+Monte Video, as seen from the water, is not an imposing-looking place.
+On the opposite side of the entrance to the harbour rises a hill,
+called the Cerro, 450 feet high, from which the town derives its name,
+and further inland, on the town side, is another eminence, 200 feet
+high, called the Cerrito. With these exceptions the surrounding
+country looks perfectly flat, without even a tree to break the
+monotony.
+
+Soon after breakfast we went ashore--in more senses of the word than
+one; for they have commenced to build a mole for the protection of
+small vessels, which, in its unfinished state, is not yet visible
+above the water. The consequence was that, at a distance of about half
+a mile from the landing-steps, we rowed straight on to the submerged
+stonework, but fortunately got off again very quickly, without having
+sustained any damage. On landing, we found ourselves opposite the
+Custom House, a fine building, with which we afterwards made a closer
+acquaintance.
+
+There is a large and very good hotel here, l'Hôtel Oriental. It is a
+handsome building outside, and the interior is full of marble courts,
+stone corridors, and lofty rooms, deliciously cool in the hottest
+weather. Having procured a carriage, Tom and I and the children drove
+through the streets, which are wide and handsome, though badly paved,
+and so full of holes that it is a wonder how the springs of a carriage
+can last a week. The houses seem built chiefly in the Italian style of
+architecture, with fine stucco fronts, and in many cases marble floors
+and facings, while the courtyards, seen through the grilles, blazed
+with flowers. All the lower windows were strongly barred, a precaution
+by no means unnecessary against the effects of the revolutions, which
+are of such frequent occurrence in this country. To enable the
+inhabitants the better to enjoy the sea-breeze, the tops of the houses
+are all flat, which gives the town, from a distance, somewhat of an
+eastern appearance. There are a great many Italian immigrants here,
+and most of the building and plastering work is done by them.
+
+The Paseo del Molino is the best part of the town, where all the rich
+merchants reside in quintas, surrounded by pretty gardens. They are
+very fantastic in their ideas of architectural style, and appear to
+bestow their patronage impartially, not to say indiscriminately, upon
+Gothic cathedrals, Alhambra palaces, Swiss cottages, Italian villas,
+and Turkish mosques. Except for this variety, the suburb has somewhat
+the appearance of the outskirts of many of the towns on the Riviera,
+with the same sub-tropical surroundings. These are, however, hard
+times on the River Plate, and more than half the quintas are deserted
+and falling into ruins. On our way back, by the Union Road, we met a
+great many of the native bullock-carts going home from market. These
+huge conveyances are covered with hides, and are drawn by teams of
+from two to twelve bullocks, yoked in pairs, and driven by a man on
+horseback, who carries a sharp-pointed goad, with which he prods the
+animals all round, at intervals. Dressed in a full white linen shirt
+and trousers, with his bright poncho and curious saddle-gear, he forms
+no unimportant figure in the picturesque scene. In the large
+market-place there are hundreds of these carts, with their owners
+encamped around them.
+
+When we at last arrived on board the yacht again, at three o'clock, we
+found that the miseries of coaling were not yet over, and that there
+had been numerous visitors from the shore. Everything on deck looked
+black, while below all was pitch dark and airless, every opening and
+crevice having been closed and covered with tarpaulin, to keep out the
+coal dust. It took seven hours to complete the work, instead of two,
+as was hoped and promised, so our chance of starting to-day is over.
+This seemed the more disappointing, because, had we foreseen the
+delay, we might have made other arrangements for seeing more on shore.
+
+_Tuesday, September 12th_.--The anchor was up, and we were already
+beginning to steam away when I came on deck this morning, just in time
+to see the first faint streaks of dawn appearing in the grey sky. The
+River Plate here is over a hundred miles wide, and its banks are very
+flat; so there was nothing to be seen, except the two little hills of
+Cerro and Cerrito and the town of Monte Video, fast vanishing in the
+distance. The channels are badly buoyed, and there are shoals and
+wrecks on all sides. The lightships are simply old hulks, with no
+special marks by which to distinguish them; and as they themselves
+look exactly like wrecks, they are not of much assistance in the
+navigation, which is very confusing, and sometimes perilous. Once we
+very nearly ran aground, but discovered just in time that the vessel
+we were steering for with confidence was only a wreck, on a dangerous
+shoal, and that the lightship itself was further ahead. The yacht was
+immediately put about, and we just skirted the bank in turning.
+
+The weather improved during the day, and a fine sunset was followed
+by a clear starlight night. At 10.30 p.m. we dropped our anchor
+outside all the other vessels in the roads at Buenos Ayres, eight
+miles from the shore. The lightship only carried an ordinary riding
+light, like any other vessel, so that it was almost impossible, unless
+you knew the port very well, to go in closer to the land at night.
+
+_Wednesday, September 13th_.--Daylight did not enable us to
+distinguish the town, for the river here is wide and the banks are
+low, and we were lying a long way from the shore, outside a great many
+fine-looking ships, at anchor in the roads. About nine o'clock a
+German captain, in a large whale-boat, came alongside and told us we
+were nearly eight miles from Buenos Ayres. Tom arranged with him to
+take us ashore; and accordingly we soon started. The water was smooth
+and there was a nice breeze, and we sailed gallantly along for about
+two hours, until we reached the town. After anchoring, we transshipped
+ourselves into a small boat, in which we were rowed to some steps, at
+the end of the long rickety mole, where we landed. Some of the planks
+of the pier were missing, leaving great holes, big enough to fall
+through, and others were so loose that when you stepped upon one end
+of them the other flew up almost into your face.
+
+Our first business was to secure the services of a pilot, to take us
+up to Rosario. The best man on the river was sent for; but when he
+came he did not recommend our undertaking the voyage, as the water is
+very low at present, and we might get stuck on a sandbank, and be
+detained for some days, although no further harm would be likely to
+occur to us. We decided, therefore, as our time is precious, to give
+up the idea of making the expedition in the yacht, and to go in the
+ordinary river-boat instead.
+
+Under the guidance of some gentlemen, we then went to the Central
+Railway Station to send off some telegrams, and thence to the River
+Plate Bank. The treasury contains 600,000_l_. in British sovereigns,
+locked up in three strong safes, besides paper-money and securities to
+the amount of 2,000,000_l_. It was the Rosario branch of this bank
+which was recently robbed of 15,000_l_. by an armed government force;
+an unprecedented proceeding in the history of nations, and one that
+might have led to the interference of foreign powers.
+
+There was time afterwards to go round and see something of the city,
+which, like many other South American towns, is built in square
+blocks, all the streets running exactly at right angles one to
+another. There is a fine plaza, or grand square, in which are situated
+the cathedral, theatre, &c., the centre being occupied by a garden,
+containing statues and fountains. The various banks, with their marble
+facings, Corinthian columns, and splendid halls, are magnificent
+buildings, and look more like palaces than places of business. Some of
+the private houses, too, seem very handsome. Outside they are all
+faced with marble, to a certain height from the ground, the interior,
+consisting of courtyard within courtyard, being rather like that of a
+Pompeian house.
+
+We next went to the agricultural show, which, though not an imposing
+affair to our eyes, appeared really very creditable to those who had
+organised it. The horses and cattle looked small, but there were some
+good specimens of sheep--specially the _rombonellis_ and _negrettis_,
+whose long fine wool was, however, only to be discovered by first
+turning aside a thick plaster of mud, beneath which it was concealed.
+We saw also some curious animals, natives of the country, such as
+vicuñas, llamas, bizcachas, and various kinds of deer, a very mixed
+lot of poultry and dogs, and two magnificent Persian cats. Another
+department of the show was allotted to the commercial products of the
+country, animal, vegetable, and mineral; the whole forming a very
+interesting collection.
+
+In re-embarking, the disagreeable process of this morning had to be
+repeated--rickety pier, rotten steps, and small boat included--before
+we reached the whale-boat, after which we had an eight miles' sail out
+to the yacht. It was a cold, dull night, and getting on board proved
+rather difficult work, owing to the rough sea.
+
+_Thursday, September 14th_.--The pilot came on board at seven o'clock
+to take us in nearer the shore, but, after all, we found ourselves
+obliged to anchor again five miles off. No ship drawing more than ten
+feet can get inside the sand-banks, which makes it a wretched place to
+lie in, especially as the weather at this time of year is very
+uncertain. You may go ashore from your ship on a fine clear morning,
+and before you return a gale may have sprung up, accompanied by a
+frightful sea. Open boats are therefore quite unsafe, a state of
+things which has given rise to the existence of a class of fine boats,
+specially built for the service, which attend all the ships lying in
+the roads. They are half-decked, will sail in any weather, and can be
+easily managed by two men.
+
+About ten o'clock we went ashore again in the whale-boat, which Tom
+had engaged to wait on us during our stay, and made the best of our
+way to a warehouse to look at some ponchos, which are the speciality
+of this part of South America. Everybody wears one, from the beggar to
+the highest official. The best kind of ponchos are very expensive,
+being made from a particular part of the finest hair of the vicuña,
+hand-woven by women, in the province of Catamarca. The genuine article
+is difficult to get, even here. In the shops the price usually varies
+from 30_l_. to 80_l_.; but we were shown some at a rather lower
+price--from 20_l_. to 60_l_. each. They are soft as silk, perfectly
+waterproof, and will wear, it is said, for ever. We met a fine-looking
+man in one of beautiful quality yesterday. He told us that it
+originally cost 30_l_. in Catamarca, twenty years ago, and that he
+gave 20_l_. for it, second-hand, ten years ago; and, with the
+exception of a few slight tears, it is now as good as ever. Before we
+came here, we were strongly advised, in case we should happen to go on
+a rough expedition up country, not to be tempted to take with us any
+_good_ ponchos, as the Gauchos, or half-bred Indians of the Pampas,
+who are great connoisseurs of these articles, and can distinguish
+their quality at a glance, would not hesitate to cut our throats in
+order to obtain possession of them.
+
+The material of which they are made is of the closest texture, and as
+the hair has never been dressed or dyed it retains all its natural oil
+and original colour, the latter varying from a very pretty yellow fawn
+to a pale cream-colour. The majority of the ponchos worn here are,
+however, made at Manchester, of a cheap and inferior material. They
+look exactly like the real thing at first sight, but are neither so
+light nor so warm, nor do they wear at all well. Occasionally they are
+made of silk, but more often of bright-coloured wool. In shape a
+poncho is simply a square shawl with a hole in the middle for the head
+of the wearer. On horseback the appearance is particularly
+picturesque, and it forms also a convenient cloak, which comes well
+over the saddle, before and behind, and leaves the arms, though
+covered, perfectly free.
+
+The natives, as a rule, wear a second poncho, generally of a different
+colour, tucked into the waistband of their long full linen drawers
+(_calzoncillos_), so as to make a pair of short baggy over-trousers. A
+poor man is content with a shirt, drawers, and two ponchos. A rich man
+has many rows of fringe and frills of lace at the bottom of his
+_calzoncillos_, and wears a short coat, with silver buttons, and a
+gorgeous silver belt, covered with dollars. His horse-fittings and
+massive stirrups (to say nothing of his enormous spurs) will be of
+solid silver, and his arms inlaid with the same metal. He will
+sometimes give as much as from 10_l_. to 20_l_. for a pair of stirrups
+alone, and the rest of his dress and equipment is proportionately
+expensive. The cost of the silver articles is little more than the
+value of the metal itself, which is of very pure quality, and is only
+roughly worked by the Indians or Gauchos. But as Manchester provides
+the ponchos, so does Birmingham the saddlery and fittings, especially
+those in use in the neighbourhood of towns.
+
+After inspecting the ponchos, we breakfasted with some friends, and
+about noon started in the train for Campana. The line passes at first
+through the streets of Buenos Ayres, and thence into the open country,
+beautifully green, and undulating like the waves of the sea. Near the
+town and the suburb of Belgrano are a great many peach-tree
+plantations, the fruit of which is used for fattening pigs while the
+wood serves for roasting them. There is also some scrubby brushwood,
+and a few large native trees; but these are soon left behind, and are
+succeeded by far-spreading rich pasture land, and occasional lagunes.
+
+We saw for the first time the holes of the bizcachas, or prairie-dogs,
+outside which the little prairie-owls keep guard. There appeared to be
+always one, and generally two, of these birds, standing, like
+sentinels, at the entrance to each hole, with their wise-looking heads
+on one side, pictures of prudence and watchfulness. The bird and the
+beast are great friends, and are seldom to be found apart. We also
+passed several enormous flocks of sheep and herds of cattle, most of
+them quite unattended, though some were being driven by men on
+horseback. There were quantities of plovers, and a great many
+partridges, of two kinds, large and small, and the numerous lagunes
+were covered with and surrounded by water-fowl of all kinds--wild
+swans and ducks, snipe, white storks, grey herons, black cormorants,
+and scarlet flamingoes, the last-named standing at the edge of the
+water, catching fish, and occasionally diving below the surface. On
+the very top of some of the telegraph-posts were the nests of the
+oven-bird, looking like carved round blocks of wood, placed there for
+ornament. These nests are made of mud, and are perfectly spherical in
+form, the interior being divided into two quite distinct chambers.
+
+[Illustration: Prairie Dogs and Owls.]
+
+Campana was reached by four o'clock, the train running straight on to
+the pier, alongside of which the two vessels were lying, with steam
+up. Passengers, baggage, and freight were immediately transferred from
+the train to the boats; and we soon found ourselves steaming along in
+the 'Uruguay,' between the willow-hung banks of the broad Parana. The
+country, though otherwise flat and uninteresting, looks very pretty
+just now, in its new spring coat of bright green.
+
+We passed several small towns, amongst others, San Pedro and San
+Nicolas, which are quite important-looking places, with a good deal of
+shipping, and occasionally stopped to pick up passengers, who had come
+in boats and steam-launches from far-distant villages, situated on
+lagunes, which our steamer could not enter.
+
+Just before arriving at each stopping-place, we had a race with the
+'Proveedor,' and whenever she became visible at a bend in the river,
+half a ton more coal was immediately heaped on to our fires by the
+captain's order--a piece of reckless extravagance, for, do what they
+would, they could not make us gain five minutes. The competition is,
+however, very fierce, and I suppose the two companies will not be
+satisfied until they have ruined one another; whereas, if each would
+run a steamer on alternate days, they and the public would be equally
+benefited. The fares are exceedingly reasonable, being less than 3_l_.
+for the whole journey from Buenos Ayres to Rosario, including all
+charges.
+
+_Friday, September 15th_.--A violent storm of thunder and lightning,
+apparently just above our heads, woke us at six o'clock this morning.
+Torrents of rain followed, and continued to fall until we dropped our
+anchor at Rosario, at 8.45 a.m., just as we were in the middle of
+breakfast, in our cozy little stern cabin. Half an hour later we
+landed, though the rain still came down in sheets, but the steamer was
+now alongside the pier, and close carriages had been provided. A few
+minutes' drive through ill-paved streets brought us to the Hotel
+Universel, a handsome, spacious building, with marble courtyards, full
+of trees, plants, and flowers, into which all the sitting-rooms open.
+Above are galleries, round which the various bed-rooms are in like
+manner ranged. It all looked nice and cool, and suitable for hot
+weather, but it was certainly rather draughty and cheerless on such a
+cold, pouring wet day, and all our efforts to make our large room, in
+which there were four immense windows, at all comfortable, were vain.
+
+Rosario, like Buenos Ayres, is built in squares. The streets are
+generally well paved with black and white marble, but the roadways are
+composed of little round stones, and are full of holes and
+inequalities, so that, in crossing the road after heavy rain, one
+steps from the _trottoir_ into a very slough of despond. The universal
+tramway runs down the centre of every street.
+
+After luncheon we made a fresh start for Carcaraña by a special train,
+to which were attached two goods-vans, full of horses, and a carriage
+truck, containing a most comfortable American carriage, in shape not
+unlike a Victoria, only much lighter and with very high wheels. After
+a short journey through a rich, flat, grass country, we arrived at
+Roldan, the first colony of the Central Argentine Land Company. Here
+we all alighted, the horses were taken out of the vans, saddled,
+bridled, and harnessed, and the gentlemen rode and I drove round the
+colony, along what are generally roads, but to-day were sheets of
+water. We saw many colonists, of every grade, from those still
+occupying the one-roomed wooden cottages, originally supplied by the
+Land Company, standing in the midst of ill-cultivated fields, to those
+who had built for themselves good houses in the town, or nice
+cottages, with pretty gardens, surrounded by well-tilled lands.
+
+The drive ended at the mill belonging to a retired officer of the
+British army, who has settled here with his wife and two dear little
+children. Here we had tea and a pleasant chat, and then returned to
+the train and proceeded to Carcaraña, the next station on the line.
+Now, however, instead of the rich pasture lands and flourishing crops
+which we had hitherto seen on all sides, our road lay through a
+desolate-looking district, bearing too evident signs of the
+destructive power of the locust. People travelling with us tell us
+that, less than a week ago, the pasture here was as fresh and green as
+could be desired, and the various crops were a foot high; but that, in
+the short space of a few hours, the care and industry of the last ten
+months were rendered utterly vain and useless, and the poor colonists
+found their verdant fields converted into a barren waste by these
+rapacious insects.
+
+Carcaraña may be called the Richmond--one might almost say the
+Brighton--of Rosario. It stands on a river, the Carcarañal, to the
+banks of which an omnibus runs twice a day from the railway-station,
+during the season, to take people to bathe. Near the station is also
+an excellent little hotel, containing a large dining-room and a few
+bed-rooms, kept by two Frenchwomen; and here the Rosarians come out
+by train to dine and enjoy the fresh air. It was quite dark by the
+time we arrived, so that we could not see much of the flourishing
+little colony which has been formed here. We therefore paddled across
+the wet road to the inn, where, despite the somewhat rough
+surroundings, we enjoyed a capital dinner, cooked in the true French
+style. They are specially celebrated here for their asparagus, but the
+locusts had devoured all but a very few stalks, besides which they
+were held responsible, on the present occasion, for the absence of
+other vegetables and salad. Yesterday there was a grand wedding-party
+near here, the complete success of which was, we were told, somewhat
+marred by the fact, that for six hours, in the very middle of the day,
+it became absolutely necessary to light candles, owing to the dense
+clouds of locusts, about a league in extent, by which the air was
+darkened. Trains are even stopped by these insects occasionally; for
+they appear to like a hard road, and when they get on the line their
+bodies make the rails so greasy that the wheels of the engines will
+not bite. Moreover, they completely obscure the lights and signals, so
+that the men are afraid to proceed. The only remedy, therefore, is to
+go very slowly, preceded by a truck-load of sand, which is scattered
+freely over the rails in front of the engine. Horses will not always
+face a cloud of locusts, even to get to their stables, but turn round
+and stand doggedly still, until it has passed.
+
+After dinner we once more stepped into our special train, in which we
+arrived at Rosario at about half-past nine o'clock, thoroughly tired
+out.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+LIFE ON THE PAMPAS.
+
+    _There's tempest in yon horned moon,_
+    _And lightning in yon cloud;_
+    _But hark the music, mariners!_
+    _The wind is piping loud._
+
+
+_Saturday, September 16th_.--Waking at half-past five, we busied
+ourselves until nine o'clock, when we again started in a special train
+for Carcaraña. After a short stop at Roldan, it was reached two hours
+later, and breakfast was followed by a long ride through the Land
+Company's colony, and from thence to Candelaria, a purely Spanish
+settlement.
+
+I freely confess that I had hardly believed all the stories they told
+me last night about the terrible doings of the locusts, and thought
+they must have been slightly exaggerated. It all seemed too dreadful
+to be true--as if one of the plagues of Egypt had been revived by the
+wand of an evil magician. In this somewhat incredulous mood I rashly
+said that, although I was very sorry to hear of the visit of these
+destructive creatures, as they _were_ unfortunately here, I should
+like to see them. My wish was shortly to be gratified; for, in the
+course of our ride, we saw in the distant sky what looked very much
+like a heavy purple thunder-cloud, but which the experienced
+pronounced to be a swarm of locusts. It seemed impossible; but as we
+proceeded they met us, first singly, and then in gradually increasing
+numbers, until each step became positively painful, owing to the smart
+blows we received from them on our heads, faces, and hands. We
+stopped for a time at Mr. Holt's large estancia, where,
+notwithstanding the general appearance of prosperity, the traces of
+the ravages of the locusts were only too visible. On remounting, to
+proceed on our journey, we found that the cloud had approached much
+nearer, the effect produced by its varying position being most
+extraordinary. As the locusts passed between us and the sun they
+completely obscured the light; a little later, with the sun's rays
+shining directly on their wings, they looked like a golden cloud, such
+as one sometimes sees in the transformation scene of a pantomime; and,
+at a greater distance, when viewed from the top of a slight eminence,
+they looked like a snow-storm, or a field of snow-white marguerites,
+which had suddenly taken to themselves wings. When on the ground, with
+their wings closed, they formed a close mass of little brown specks,
+completely hiding the ground and crops, both grass and grain. In
+riding over them, though not a quarter of their number could rise, for
+want of space in which to spread their wings, they formed such a dense
+cloud that we could see nothing else, and the horses strongly objected
+to face them. They got into one's hair and clothes, and gave one the
+creeps all over. I am sure I shall often dream of them for some time
+to come, and I have quite made up my mind that I never wish to see
+another locust as long as I live. I have, however, secured some fine
+specimens for any one who is curious about them.
+
+The land we passed through appeared to be well farmed. We spoke to
+several of the colonists, especially to one Italian family, living in
+a little mud rancho with a tile roof. They were all gathered together
+to witness the dying agonies of one of their best cows, perishing from
+the effects of the drought. The rest of the animals in the corral
+looked, I am sorry to say, thin and miserable, and as if they intended
+soon to follow their companion's example. The poor people,
+nevertheless, seemed very cheery and contented, and hospitably gave
+us each a drink of some remarkably muddy water.
+
+After a thirty-mile ride under a hot sun, fortunately on the easiest
+of horses, we were none of us sorry to stop for a short time at
+Carcaraña, and obtain some refreshment, before proceeding--horses,
+carriage, and all--by train to Rosario, another colony on the line.
+Arrived at the latter place, I thought I had had enough riding for the
+first day, and therefore visited the various farms and houses in the
+carriage, the rest of the party going, as before, on horseback. After
+a round of about fifteen miles, we returned to the station, where we
+were kindly received by the sister of the station-master. An excellent
+dinner was provided for us in the refreshment-room, before we entered
+our special train, and Rosario was reached at about ten o'clock.
+
+_Sunday, September 17th_.--A kind friend sent his carriage to take us
+to the English church, a brick building, built to replace the small
+iron church that existed here previously, and only opened last month.
+The service was well performed, and the singing of the choir
+excellent. We paid a visit to the Sunday schools after luncheon, and
+then drove to the quinta of Baron Alvear. The road lies through the
+town, past the race-course, crowded with Gauchos, getting up scratch
+races amongst themselves, and on, over undulating plains and
+water-courses, into the open country. Sometimes there was a track,
+sometimes none. In some places the pastures were luxuriantly green; in
+others the ground was carpeted with white, lilac, and scarlet verbena,
+just coming into bloom--for it is still early spring here. Here and
+there came a bare patch, completely cleared by the locusts, who had
+also stripped many of the fine timber trees in the garden of the
+quinta. On the gate-posts, at the entrance, were the nests of two
+oven-birds, like those we had already seen on the telegraph-posts, so
+exactly spherical as to look like ornaments. In one of the shrubberies
+a fine jaguar was shut up in a cage, who looked very like a tiger.
+Though he had evidently just had his dinner, he was watching with
+greedy interest the proceedings of some natives in charge of a
+horse--an animal which he esteems a great delicacy, when procurable.
+
+On our way across the camp we saw a great quantity of the seeds of the
+Martynia proboscidea, mouse-burrs as they call them,--devil's claws or
+toe-nails: they are curious-looking things, as the annexed woodcut
+will show.
+
+[Illustration: Devils Horns]
+
+Frank Buckland has a theory--and very likely a correct one--that they
+are created in this peculiar form for the express purpose of attaching
+themselves to the long tails of the wild horses that roam about the
+country in troops of hundreds. They carry them thousands of miles, and
+disseminate the seed wherever they go at large in search of food and
+water.
+
+When we returned to Rosario we noticed a great crowd still on the
+race-course, and were just in time to see the finish of one race,
+ridden barebacked, and for a very short distance. All the races are
+short; and as the natives are always engaging in these little contests
+of speed, the horses get into the habit of extending themselves
+directly you put them out of a walk. But the least touch is sufficient
+to stop them immediately, and I never saw horses better broken than
+they are here. The most fearful bits are used for the purpose; but
+when once this is accomplished, the mere inclination of the body, or
+the slightest pressure of the finger upon the bridle, is sufficient to
+guide them. They will maintain, for almost any length of time, a quick
+canter--what they call here 'a little gallop'--at the rate of three
+leagues (ten miles) an hour, without showing the slightest sign of
+fatigue. They don't like being mounted, and always fidget a little
+then, but are quite quiet directly you are in the saddle. I rode
+several horses which had never carried a lady before; but after the
+first few minutes they did not seem to mind the riding-habit in the
+least. They evidently dislike standing still, unless you dismount and
+throw the rein on the ground, when they will remain stationary for
+hours.
+
+_Monday, September 18th_.--The early part of this morning was spent in
+much the same way as on Saturday, Tom going as before to the Land
+Company's Office, whilst I remained at home to write.
+
+At nine o'clock we proceeded to the station, and started in our
+comfortable railway carriage for Tortugas. We formed quite a large
+party altogether, and the journey over the now familiar line, past
+Roldan, Carcaraña, and Cañada de Gomez, was a very pleasant one. At
+Tortugas we left the train, and paid a visit to one of the overseers
+of the colony and his cheery little French wife, who, we found, had
+been expecting us all day on Saturday. A few weeks ago this lady's
+sister was carried off by Indians, with some other women and children.
+After riding many leagues, she seized her opportunity, pushed the
+Indian who was carrying her off his horse, turned the animal's head
+round, and galloped back across the plain, hotly pursued, until within
+a mile or two of the colony, by the rest of the band. It was a plucky
+thing for a little bit of a woman to attempt with a great powerful
+savage, and she is deservedly looked upon in the village as quite a
+heroine.
+
+The journey between Rosario and Cordova occupies twelve hours by the
+ordinary train; and as Frayle Muerto is exactly half-way between the
+two places, the trains going in either direction commence their
+journey at the same hours (6 a.m. and 6 p.m.), by which means the
+passengers meet each other here in time to breakfast and dine
+together. There is a fine bridge over the river near Frayle Muerto,
+but the place is principally celebrated as having been the site of the
+Henleyite colony, which caused disappointment to so many young men of
+family, who were induced to come out here from England and to go up
+country, with no other result than the loss of all their money. The
+scheme was supposed to be perfect in all its details, but proved upon
+a closer acquaintance to be utterly worthless. The iron church at
+Rosario is still standing, which the members of the expedition took up
+there, and we have also met some of the young men themselves at
+various times.
+
+The train did not reach Cordova until 7.30 p.m., and it was therefore
+too late for us to see much of the approach to the city, but to-morrow
+we intend to do a good deal in that way. In the middle of the night we
+were aroused by a violent thunderstorm. The lightning was most vivid,
+and illuminated our room with many colours. The rain fell heavily,
+flooding everything, and making the streets look like rivers, and the
+courtyard of the hotel like a lake. It is one of the oldest, and, at
+the same time, one of the most unhealthy, of the cities of South
+America, for it is built in the hollow of the surrounding hills, where
+no refreshing breezes can penetrate.
+
+Travelling in Brazil is like passing through a vast hothouse, filled
+with gorgeous tropical vegetation and forms of insect life. In the
+neighbourhood of Monte Video you might imagine yourself in a perpetual
+greenhouse. Here it is like being in a vast garden, in which the
+greenest of turf, the brightest of bedding-out plants, and the most
+fragrant flowering shrubs abound. Each country, therefore, possesses
+its own particular beauty, equally attractive in its way.
+
+Shortly after leaving Cordova we passed through an Indian village;
+but, except at this point, we did not meet many natives during our
+ride. One poor woman, however, whom we did unfortunately encounter,
+had a fall from her horse, owing to the animal being frightened at the
+umbrella I carried, yet my own horse had, after a very brief
+objection, quietly submitted to the introduction of this novelty into
+the equipment of his rider.
+
+[Illustration: La Calera.]
+
+We found that the hotel on the Caldera for which we were bound was
+shut up; but one of the party had the keys, and an excellent lunch
+quickly made its appearance. The view from the verandah, over the
+river, to the Sierras beyond, was very fine. It had become quite hot
+by this time, and I was much interested in seeing all our horses taken
+down to the water to bathe. They appeared to be perfectly familiar
+with the process; and, the river being shallow, they picked out all
+the nice holes between the boulders, where they could lie down and be
+completely covered by the water. Just as we were starting to return,
+black clouds gathered from all around; the lightning flashed, the
+thunder muttered, and big drops began to fall. But the storm was not
+of long duration, and we escaped the worst part of it, though we had
+ample evidence of its severity during our homeward ride, in the
+slippery ground, the washed-away paths, and the swollen ditches. We
+stopped half-way to see the drowning out of some poor little bizcachas
+from their holes. The water had been turned into their dwellings by
+means of trenches, and as the occupants endeavoured to make their
+escape at the other end they were pounced upon by men and dogs; the
+prairie-owls meanwhile hovering disconsolately overhead. Two of the
+gentlemen of our party each managed to purchase a living bizcacha,
+which was then wrapped up in a handkerchief and conveyed home. When
+young they are pretty little creatures, and are easily tamed.
+
+It was late when we reached Cordova; but I was anxious to visit the
+Observatory before our departure, as it is one of the best, though not
+by any means the largest, in the world. Professor Gould, the
+astronomer, is away just at present, but we were kindly received by
+Mrs. Gould, who conducted us over the building. They have a fine
+collection of various instruments and some wonderful photographs of
+the principal stars--Saturn, with his ring and eight moons, Jupiter,
+with his four moons, Venus, Mercury, &c. If we could have stayed
+longer we might have seen much more; but it was now quite dark, and we
+had only just time for a short visit to the observing room itself. Our
+ride down to the city in the dark would have been exceedingly risky if
+our horses had been less sure-footed, for the roads had been washed
+away in many places, but we reached the bottom of the Observatory hill
+in safety, and shortly afterwards arrived at the hotel just in time
+for dinner.
+
+After dinner we drove to the station, where we found all our own party
+assembled, and many more people, who had come to see us off. I was
+given the Chilian bit used for the horse I rode to-day, as a
+remembrance of my visit. It is a most formidable-looking instrument
+of torture, and one which I am sure my dear little steed did not in
+the least require; but I suppose the fact of having once felt it, when
+being broken in, is sufficient for a lifetime, for the horses here
+have certainly the very lightest mouths I ever met with. A gift of a
+young puma, or small lion, was also waiting for me. It is about four
+months old, and very tame; but, considering the children, I think it
+will be more prudent to pass it on to the Zoo, in London.
+
+The train started at 8.30 p.m. and took an hour to reach Rio Segundo,
+where we found tea and coffee prepared. After that we proceeded to
+make our arrangements for the night; some of the gentlemen sleeping in
+the saloon-carriages, and some on beds made up in the luggage-van. Tom
+and I turned into our two cozy little berths, and knew nothing more
+until we were called at 4.30 a.m. at Cañada de Gomez. The lamp had
+gone out, and we found it rather difficult work dressing and packing
+in the cold and dark; but it was soon done, and a cup of hot coffee in
+the refreshment-room afterwards made us feel quite comfortable.
+
+Then we all separated: Captain Dunlop to join his ship; Tom to
+complete his report on the colonies of the Central Argentine Land
+Company, which he is preparing in compliance with the request of the
+Directors in London; while the rest of the party awaited the arrival
+of the waggonette which was to take us to the estancia of Las Rosas.
+
+_Wednesday, September 20th_.--At 6.30 a.m. the waggonette arrived, a
+light but strong, unpainted vehicle, drawn by a pair of active little
+well-bred horses, both of whom had been raced in their day. There were
+but a few leagues of cultivated ground to be passed before we reached
+the broad, undulating, solitary Pampas, where for some time the only
+visible signs of life were to be found in the Teru-tero birds (a sort
+of plover), who shrieked discordantly as we disturbed their repose;
+the partridges, large and small, put up by the retriever who
+accompanied us; some prairie fowls; a great many hawks, of all sizes;
+and the pretty little wydah-birds, with their two immense tail
+feathers, four times the length of their bodies. The first glimpse of
+the far-spreading prairie was most striking in all its variations of
+colour. The true shade of the Pampas grass, when long, is a light
+dusty green; when short it is a bright fresh green. But it frequently
+happens that, owing to the numerous prairie-fires, either accidental
+or intentional, nothing is to be seen but a vast expanse of black
+charred ground, here and there relieved by a few patches of vivid
+green, where the grass is once more springing up under the influence
+of the rain.
+
+The road, or rather track, was in a bad condition, owing to the recent
+wet weather, and on each side of the five _cañadas_, or small rivers,
+which we had to ford, there were deep morasses, through which we had
+to struggle as best we could, with the mud up to our axletrees. Just
+before arriving at the point where the stream had to be crossed, the
+horses were well flogged and urged on at a gallop, which they
+gallantly maintained until the other side was reached. Then we stopped
+to breathe the horses and to repair damages, generally finding that a
+trace had given way, or that some other part of the harness had shown
+signs of weakness. On one occasion we were delayed for a considerable
+time by the breaking of the splinter-bar, to repair which was a
+troublesome matter; indeed, I don't know how we should have managed it
+if we had not met a native lad, who sold us his long lasso to bind the
+pieces together again. It was a lucky _rencontre_ for us, as he was
+the only human being we saw during the whole of our drive of thirty
+miles, except the peon who brought us a change of horses, half-way.
+
+In the course of the journey we passed a large estancia, the road to
+which was marked by the dead bodies and skeletons of the poor beasts
+who had perished in the late droughts. Hundreds of them were lying
+about in every stage of decay, those more recently dead being
+surrounded by vultures and other carrion-birds. The next _cañada_ that
+we crossed was choked up with the carcases of the unfortunate
+creatures who had struggled thus far for a last drink, and had then
+not had sufficient strength left to extricate themselves from the
+water. Herds of miserable-looking, half-starved cattle were also to be
+seen, the cows very little larger than their calves, and all
+apparently covered with the same rough shaggy coats. The pasture is
+not fine enough in this part of the country to carry sheep, but deer
+are frequently met with.
+
+A little later we again began to approach cultivated land, and a mile
+or two further brought us to a broad road, with high palings on either
+side, down which we drove, and through the yard, to the door of the
+estancia. The house is a one-story building, one room wide, with a
+verandah in front and at the back, one side of which faces the yard,
+the other a well-kept garden, full of violets and other spring
+flowers, and roses just coming into bloom. There are several smaller
+detached buildings, in which the sleeping apartments are situated, and
+which are also provided with verandahs and barred windows. Having
+visited the various rooms, in company with our hosts, we sat down to a
+rough but substantial breakfast, to which full justice was done.
+Travelling all night, and a ride of thirty miles in the fresh morning
+air, have a tendency to produce a keen appetite; and the present
+occasion proved no exception to that rule.
+
+After breakfast I rested and wrote some letters, while the gentlemen
+inspected the farm and stud. The proprietor of this estancia has the
+best horses in this part of the country, and has taken great pains to
+improve their breed, as well as that of the cattle and sheep, by
+importing thorough-breds from England. Unlike the Arabs, neither
+natives nor settlers here think of riding mares, and it is considered
+quite a disgrace to do so. They are therefore either allowed to run
+wild in troops, or are used to trample out corn or to make mud for
+bricks. They are also frequently killed and boiled down, for the sake
+of their hides and tallow, the value of which does not amount to more
+than about 10_s_. per head. Large herds of them are met with at this
+time of the year on the Pampas, attended by a few horses, and
+accompanied by their foals.
+
+The natives of these parts pass their lives in the saddle. Horses are
+used for almost every conceivable employment, from hunting and fishing
+to brick-making and butter-churning. Even the very beggars ride about
+on horseback. I have seen a photograph of one, with a police
+certificate of mendicancy hanging round his neck, taken from life for
+Sir Woodbine Parish. Every domestic servant has his or her own horse,
+as a matter of course; and the maids are all provided with habits, in
+which they ride about on Sundays, from one estancia to another, to pay
+visits. In fishing, the horse is ridden into the water as far as he
+can go, and the net or rod is then made use of by his rider. At Buenos
+Ayres I have seen the poor animals all but swimming to the shore, with
+heavy carts and loads, from the ships anchored in the inner roads; for
+the water is so shallow that only very small boats can go alongside
+the vessels, and the cargo is therefore transferred directly to the
+carts to save the trouble and expense of transshipment. In
+out-of-the-way places, on the Pampas, where no churns exist, butter is
+made by putting milk into a goat-skin bag, attached by a long lasso to
+the saddle of a peon, who is then set to gallop a certain number of
+miles, with the bag bumping and jumping along the ground after him.
+
+About four o'clock the horses--much larger and better bred animals
+than those we have been riding lately--were brought round from the
+corral. Mine was a beauty; easy, gentle, and fast. We first took a
+canter round the cultivated ground, about 300 acres in extent, and in
+capital condition. Lucerne grows here splendidly, and can be cut seven
+times a year. As we left the yard, Mr. Nield's man asked if he would
+take the dogs. He replied in the negative; but I suppose he must have
+referred to the greyhounds only, for we were certainly accompanied on
+the present occasion by _eleven_ dogs of various sorts and sizes,
+those left behind being shut up and kept without food, in anticipation
+of the stag-hunt to-morrow. We rode over the race-course, where the
+horses are trained, and on to the partridge ground. The larger kind of
+these birds are extremely stupid, and are easily ridden down by a
+horseman, or caught in a noose. They rise three times, and after the
+third flight they are so exhausted and terrified that it is easy to
+dismount and catch them with the hand, as they lie panting on the long
+grass. Partridge-hunting is considered good sport. It is necessary to
+keep your eye constantly fixed upon the bird, and to watch where he
+settles, and then to gallop to the spot as hard as possible, leaving
+your horse to look after himself amid the long grass; and this
+manoeuvre has to be repeated until at last the unfortunate bird is
+overtaken and caught.
+
+As we were riding along, the dogs found and killed a bizcacha, in a
+bank. Just as Mr. Elliott had pulled it out, and had laid it, dead, in
+the field, its little companion owl arrived, and appeared to be in the
+most dreadful state of mind. It shrieked and cried, as it hovered over
+us, and finally selected a small white fox terrier, who, I think,
+really had been principally concerned in the death, as the object of
+its vengeance, pouncing down upon his head, and giving him two or
+three good pecks, at the same time flapping its wings violently. The
+other dogs drove it off; but more than half an hour afterwards, while
+we were looking at some horses, nearly a mile from the spot, the
+plucky little owl returned to the charge, and again swooped down upon
+the same dog, with a dismal cry, and administered a vigorous peck to
+him. Altogether it was a striking and interesting proof of the
+attachment existing between these curious birds and beasts; the object
+of the owl in the present instance clearly being to revenge if
+possible the death of its friend.
+
+On our return to the farm, we went all round the place, and found that
+everything was being made secure for the night; after which we watched
+all the servants come in one by one for their daily ration of grog,
+and then retired to dress for dinner, shortly after which, being
+thoroughly tired out, I retired to my bed-room, attended by a very
+kind old Irishwoman, who had been deputed to look after me. My mind
+was at first somewhat disturbed by the discovery of one or two
+enormous toads and long-armed spiders in my apartment; but they
+fortunately did not interfere with my repose, for I slept like a top.
+All the rooms being on the ground-floor, it is almost impossible
+entirely to exclude intruders of this description. I admired very much
+what I took to be two fine ponchos, of a delicate fawn-colour, used as
+tablecloths, but upon a closer examination I found that they were made
+of the finest silk, and learned afterwards that they were imported
+from England. I don't know why the same material should not be
+employed for a similar purpose at home; but I believe that those
+manufactured hitherto have been designed expressly for the South
+American market, to which they are exported in considerable
+quantities.
+
+_Thursday, September 21st_.--At five o'clock, when I awoke, it was so
+misty that I could only see about half-way across the yard. By six,
+the hour at which we were to have started on our hunting expedition,
+matters had improved a little; but it was still considered unsafe to
+venture out, for fear of being lost on the vast plains which
+surrounded us. An hour later, however, it was reported that the fog
+was clearing off, and a little before eight o'clock we started.
+Horses, riders, and dogs, all appeared to be in the highest spirits,
+the former jumping and frisking about, hardly deigning to touch the
+ground, the latter tearing after one another and barking at every
+stray bird they met. The pack numbered seventeen, and could hardly be
+called a level lot of hounds, comprising, as it did, two deerhounds,
+five well-bred greyhounds, two retrievers, one setter, one spaniel,
+one French poodle, two fox terriers, one black and tan terrier, and
+two animals of an utterly indescribable breed; but they all did their
+work well, as the event proved. Even the shaggy fat old French poodle
+arrived in each case before the deer was cut up.
+
+Two deer were soon descried in the distance, and we cantered steadily
+towards them at the rate of about ten miles an hour, until the dogs
+winded and sighted them. Then, directly the first short yelp was
+heard, every horse extended himself in an instant, galloping away as
+hard as he could go, almost literally _ventre à terre_. They were
+nearly all thoroughbreds, and had been raced, so that the speed was
+something delightful. But it only lasted ten minutes, at the end of
+which time the dogs ran into one of the deer, and thus put a temporary
+stop to our enjoyment. He proved to be a fine buck, and was soon
+killed. His legs were cut off for trophies, but, his horns being like
+velvet, the head was not worth having. Some of the dogs pursued the
+doe, but failed to pull her down, and returned half an hour later
+fatigued and panting.
+
+It had become hot by this time, so we rode to the nearest water, to
+enable the animals to drink and bathe, and then started afresh at a
+sharp canter. There were plenty of bizcacha holes and boggy places to
+be avoided; but we allowed the horses to take care of themselves and
+us in this respect, and occupied ourselves almost exclusively in
+looking for fresh deer. For some time we found nothing; then two
+sprang out of the long grass close to the _cañada_, which they
+crossed, and, on reaching the other side, started off in different
+directions. The pack pursued and divided, some going after each
+animal. I, and two others of the party, followed the doe, and after
+another short burst of ten minutes, at a tremendous pace, we ran into
+and killed her. As soon as she had been despatched, we wanted to
+follow the buck, in pursuit of which the rest of the riders had gone,
+but there was now nothing to be seen of him or them. Flat as the
+country looked, the slight undulations of the ground quite hid them
+from our view. After riding about for two hours in various directions,
+looking and listening most patiently, we abandoned the search in
+despair, and returned to the house, where we found that our friends
+had already arrived. They had enjoyed the best run they have had for
+many months--seven miles, from point to point--but the dogs had lain
+down, dead beat, at the end of the first six miles. The horsemen had
+galloped on, their animals tailing off one by one, until only two
+remained in it at all. Having mutually agreed to let the stag live
+till another day to afford perhaps as good a run and as much pleasure
+to some one else, they thereupon also abandoned the chase, and turned
+their horses' heads homewards.
+
+After a change of dress, we proceeded to pack up, preparatory to our
+departure, and then had breakfast, after which we bade adieu to our
+kind hosts, and started in the waggonette to retrace our steps to the
+station. It was very bright and hot, and the sun and wind had already
+begun to have a visible effect upon the vegetation of the Pampas. The
+streams were much more passable, and we reached Cañada de Gomez at
+about half-past five, in a shorter time, than it had taken us to
+perform the outward journey yesterday. On reaching Rosario at about
+ten o'clock, we found several friends waiting to receive us, with
+invitations to tea; but we felt too tired in body and too disreputable
+in appearance to accept them, and preferred going straight to our
+hotel and to bed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+MORE ABOUT THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.
+
+    _The twilight is sad and cloudy,_
+    _The wind blows wild and free,_
+    _And like the wings of sea-birds_
+    _Flash the white caps of the sea._
+
+
+_Friday, September 22nd_.--Mr. Fisher called for me at 8 a.m., to
+drive me in his little carriage to the railway yard and workshops, and
+then to pay some farewell visits. We also went to see the market, and
+to get some photographs of Rosario; after which, breakfast,
+packing-up, and paying the bill occupied our time until one o'clock,
+when we started for the steamer, to return to Buenos Ayres. On our
+arrival alongside the 'Proveedor,' I found that nearly all our Rosario
+friends had come down to the landing-place to see us off, and had
+brought all manner of remembrances for me and the children. Flowers in
+profusion; a tame cardinal bird for Muriel; a pair of dear little
+long-tailed green paroquets; the skin of a seal, shot at the
+Alexandria colony; a beautiful poncho; an Argentine bit, whip, and
+stirrups; a carpincha skin; two pretty little muletas--a sort of
+armadillo, very tame, and often kept in the houses here as a pet; and
+several other presents, all of which, when I look at them at home,
+will serve to remind me of the kind donors, and of the happy days
+spent in the Argentine Republic.
+
+It was not long before we were off, and steaming slowly astern of the
+'Uruguay.' This boat is not so large nor so fast as the 'Uruguay,'
+though the difference in speed does not probably amount to more than
+fifteen minutes in the twenty-four hours. Her saloon and deck are not
+so good, but her sleeping-cabins are much larger and more comfortable.
+The Italian captains are equally agreeable on both steamers, the
+civility is the same, and the fares and food are precisely similar, so
+that there is not much left to influence one in the choice of vessels.
+We had a pleasant party at an excellent dinner in the evening, the
+captain only regretting that we had not been on board two days ago,
+when Mlle. P. and the opera company went down from Rosario to Buenos
+Ayres. They had a very cheery evening, and some good music, which Tom
+told us afterwards he thoroughly enjoyed. There were no musicians on
+board to-night, and not any temptation to sit up late, which was
+perhaps as well; one of the reasons for our going back this way being
+that we wished to have an opportunity of seeing the River Tigré, which
+we should reach in the early morning. On the upward journey we had, to
+save time, embarked at Campaña, which is situated above that river.
+
+_Saturday, September 23rd_.--At 4.30 a.m. the captain called me, being
+anxious that I should not miss any of the beauties of the Tigré. On my
+arrival on deck he kindly had a chair placed for me right in the bows,
+provided me with rugs and wraps, and sent for some hot coffee, which
+was particularly acceptable, as the morning air was fresh and chilly.
+The sky was flushed with rosy clouds, the forerunners of one of the
+most beautiful sunrises imaginable. The river itself is narrow and
+monotonous, the branches of the willow-tree on either bank almost
+sweeping the sides of the steamer. The centre channel is fairly deep;
+but we managed to run aground once, though we only drew nine feet, and
+in turning a sharp corner it was necessary to send a boat ashore with
+a rope, to pull the vessel's head round.
+
+At half-past six we reached the port of Tigré, where we found many
+fine ships waiting for the tide, to go up the river. Some delay
+occurred while the passengers' luggage was being examined; but in
+about half an hour we were able to land and walk to the
+railway-station, through an avenue of shady trees, round the trunks of
+which the wistaria, now in full bloom, was climbing, and past several
+houses, whose pretty gardens were ablaze with all sorts of flowers. At
+the station I found a letter from Tom, telling me we were expected to
+breakfast at a quinta, not far from Buenos Ayres.
+
+For about an hour and a half the line ran through a rich and fertile
+country, quite the garden of Buenos Ayres, until we arrived at the
+station where we were to alight. Here Mr. Coghlan met us and drove us
+to his house, which is charmingly situated in the midst of a grove of
+olive-trees, formerly surrounding the palace of the viceroys. After
+breakfast the gardener cut us a fine bouquet of roses and violets, and
+we walked to the tramway, and were conveyed by one of the cars,
+smoothly and quickly, to the city. The contrast between this mode of
+travelling and riding in an ordinary carriage through the ill-paved
+streets is very striking. It is really less fatiguing to walk than to
+adopt the latter mode of conveyance, and I believe that, but for the
+look of the thing, most people would prefer to do so. How the vehicles
+themselves stand the jolting I cannot imagine, for they are all large
+and handsome, and must suffer tremendous strains.
+
+At noon we went with Mr. Coghlan to see the market and the museum, and
+to do some shopping. The market is a large open building, well
+supplied with everything at moderate prices; meat, game, fruit,
+vegetables, and flowers being especially cheap and good. House-rent
+and fine clothes--what Muriel would call 'dandy things'--are very dear
+in Buenos Ayres, but all the necessaries of life are certainly cheap.
+People of the middle and lower classes live much better here than they
+do at home, and the development of bone and muscle in large families
+of small children, owing to the constant use of so much meat and
+strong soup, is very remarkable. When once they have attained the age
+at which they can run about, children get on very well; but the
+climate, and the difficulty of obtaining a proper supply of milk in
+hot weather, often prove fatal to infants. It is very difficult to get
+good servants here, as they can easily obtain much higher pay in other
+capacities, and are very soon enabled to set up in business for
+themselves. Returning to the hotel, we collected our parcels and had
+some luncheon, and then proceeded to the pier, where we found the
+children waiting for us to embark in the gig, and we soon arrived
+safely on board the 'Sunbeam.'
+
+At about half-past six, Tom and Mabelle returned from their expedition
+to the largest and most comfortable estancia in the country, where
+they were received most hospitably, and enjoyed themselves very much.
+
+After dinner, some of our party left in the whale-boat, being anxious
+to be present at Madame Almazilia's benefit performance at the opera,
+for which I fear they arrived too late after all. Whilst we were
+waiting at the railway-station to-day, some of the bouquets, which
+were to be presented at the theatre to-night, arrived by train. The
+flowers were arranged in all manner of strange shapes and
+devices--full-sized tables and chairs, music-stands, and musical
+instruments, and many other quaint conceits, composed entirely of grey
+Neapolitan violets, marked out with camellias and other coloured
+flowers.
+
+_Sunday, September 24th_.--Most of us went ashore in the whale-boat at
+ten o'clock, to attend the English church, reopened to-day for the
+first time for some months. After our own service we met many friends,
+and walked to the Roman Catholic cathedral. The streets were full of
+well-appointed carriages, and in the interior of the building we found
+a great many well-dressed ladies, and a few men. Mass had not
+commenced, and a constant stream of worshippers was still entering;
+but we remained only for a short time, and then returned to the Mole.
+By this time the wind had freshened considerably, and several of our
+friends tried to persuade us to remain on shore; but as we knew Tom
+was expecting us, and we wanted to get the things we required for our
+next journey, we thought it better to go off.
+
+It took us two hours and a half, beating against the wind, to reach
+the yacht, sea-sick, and drenched to the skin. Directly we got outside
+the bar the sea was very bad, and each wave broke more or less over
+the little half-deck, under which the children had been packed away
+for shelter. Seeing how rough it was out at the anchorage--far worse
+than near the shore--Tom had quite given us up, for it was now
+half-past three, and was preparing to come ashore, bringing our things
+with him. On board the yacht we found an unfortunate French maid, and
+another servant, who had come off early in the morning to spend the
+day and have dinner with our people, but who were now lying prostrate
+and ill in the cabin.
+
+Champagne and luncheon revived us a little, and Tom hurried us off to
+get ashore again by daylight, before the weather became worse. It was
+a very pleasant twenty minutes' sail to the shore, racing along before
+the wind, with two reefs in the mainsail--quite a different thing from
+beating out. The tide was high, and the captain therefore steered for
+the pier, where he hoped to land us. Unfortunately, however, he missed
+it; and as it was impossible to make another tack out, all that could
+be done was to let go the anchor to save running ashore, and wait
+until they sent out a small boat to fetch us. This took some little
+time during which we pitched and tossed about in a very disagreeable
+fashion. When the boat did at last arrive she turned out to be a
+wretched little skiff, rowed by two men, with very indifferent oars,
+and only capable of taking three passengers at a time. Tom went first,
+taking with him the two children, and the two poor sea-sick maids, and
+the boat at once put off for the land, Tom steering. It was terrible
+to watch them from the whale-boat, and when one tremendous sea came,
+and the skiff broached to, I thought for a moment that all was over,
+as did every one who was watching our proceedings from the pier. I
+could not look any more, till I heard shouts that they were safe
+ashore. Then came our turn. The boat returned for us, this time
+provided with better oars, and we were soon landed in safety, if not
+in comfort; and a third and last trip brought ashore the rest of the
+party and the luggage, Tom remaining at the tiller.
+
+Mr. Coghlan had come down to meet us, but, seeing the peril of the
+first boat, had gone away until he heard we were all landed, and now
+returned to congratulate us on our narrow escape and present safety.
+After we had rested for a short time in the waiting-room, to recover
+from our fright and shake our dripping garments, we went to the Hôtel
+de la Paix, where we dined, and at ten o'clock we walked down to the
+railway-station, where a large number of people had already assembled,
+some of whom were to accompany us to Azul, while others had only come
+to see us off.
+
+Everything had been most comfortably arranged for us in the special
+train. The interior fittings of two second-class American carriages
+had been completely taken out, and a canvas lining, divided into
+compartments, each containing a cozy little bed, had been substituted.
+Wash-stands, looking-glasses, &c., had been provided, and a profusion
+of beautiful flowers filled in every available spot. In a third car
+two tables, occupying its entire length, with seats on one side of
+each table, had been placed; and here it was intended that we should
+breakfast, lunch, and dine.
+
+_Monday, September 25th_.--We slept soundly--speaking for the children
+and myself--until we were aroused at six o'clock this morning by the
+agreeable intelligence that we had reached our destination. Azul is
+about 300 miles south of Buenos Ayres, on the Southern Railway. It is
+a small and primitive place in itself, but is situated in the midst
+of splendid pastures, both for rearing sheep and cattle, of which
+there are large flocks and herds.
+
+Whilst we were waiting for breakfast, we walked a little distance to
+see a troop of mares treading mud for bricks. It was a curious, but
+rather sad sight. Inside a circular enclosure, some fifty yards in
+diameter, about fifty half-starved animals, up to their houghs in very
+sloppy mud, were being driven round about, and up and down, as fast as
+they could go, by a mounted peon, assisted by five or six men on foot,
+outside the enclosure, armed with long heavy whips, which they used
+constantly. Some of the poor creatures had foals, which were tied up a
+little distance off, and which kept up a piteous whinnying, as an
+accompaniment to the lashings and crackings of the whips. On our way
+back to the station we saw a horse, attached to a light gig, bolt
+across the Pampas at full gallop, vainly pursued by a man on
+horseback. First one wheel came off and then the other; then the body
+of the gig was left behind, and then the shafts and most of the
+harness followed suit; until at last--as we afterwards heard--the
+runaway reached his home, about five miles off, with only his bridle
+remaining.
+
+At nine o'clock the breakfast-bell rang, and we found an excellent
+repast spread out for us on two long tables. An hour later we started
+in seven large carriages, and proceeded first to make the tour of the
+town, afterwards visiting the bank, and a fine new house in the course
+of construction by a native, built entirely of white marble from
+Italy. Then we paid a visit to some Indians--an old chief and his four
+wives, who have settled quietly down in a toldo near the town. They
+were not bad-looking, and appeared fairly comfortable, as they
+squatted in the open air round the fire, above which was suspended a
+large iron pot, containing, to judge by the look and smell, a most
+savoury preparation. We next went to a store, where we picked up a few
+curiosities, and then drove to the mill of Azul, a new establishment,
+of which the inhabitants of the town are evidently very proud. There
+is a pretty walk by the mill-stream, overhung with willows, and close
+by is another toldo, inhabited by more Indians.
+
+[Illustration: Indians at Azul]
+
+Leaving the town, we now proceeded about two leagues across the Pampas
+to Mr. Frer's estancia. He is a farmer, on a very extensive scale, and
+possesses about 24,000 sheep and 500 horses, besides goodly herds of
+cattle. The locusts have not visited this part of the country, and the
+pastures are consequently in fine condition after the late rains,
+while the sheep look proportionately well. We passed a large
+_grasseria_, or place where sheep are killed at the rate of seven in a
+minute, and are skinned, cut up, and boiled down for tallow in an
+incredibly short space of time, the residue of the meat being used in
+the furnace as fuel. Running about loose, outside, were four or five
+curly-horned rams, between two of which a grand combat took place,
+apparently conducted in strict accordance with the rules of fighting
+etiquette. The two animals began by walking round and round, eyeing
+each other carefully, and then retiring backwards a certain distance,
+which might have been measured out for them, they stopped so exactly
+simultaneously. Then, gazing steadfastly at one another for a few
+moments, as if to take aim, they rushed forward with tremendous force,
+dashing their foreheads together with a crash that might have been
+heard a mile away. It seemed marvellous that they did not fracture
+their skulls, for they repeated the operation three or four times
+before Mr. Frer could get a man to help to stop the fight, when the
+two combatants were led off, in a very sulky state, to be locked up
+apart.
+
+Arrangements had been made for us to see as much of station-life as
+possible during our short visit. The peons' dinner had been put back,
+in order that we might witness their peculiar method of roasting, or
+rather baking, their food, and eating it; but we were rather later
+than was expected, and the men were so hungry that we were only able
+to see the end of the performance. Mr. Frer had also sent a long way
+across the Pampas for some wild horses, belonging to him, in order
+that we might see them lassoed; and Colonel Donovan had brought with
+him one of his best domidors, or horse-breakers, that we might have an
+opportunity of seeing an unbroken colt caught and backed for the first
+time.
+
+About a hundred horses were driven into a large corral, and several
+gauchos and peons, some on horseback and some on foot, exhibited their
+skill with the lasso, by catching certain of the animals, either by
+the fore leg, the hind leg, or the neck, as they galloped round and
+round at full speed. The captured animal got a tremendous fall in each
+case, and if the mounted horse was not very clever and active, he and
+his rider were very likely to be thrown down also. There was the risk
+too of the man receiving an injury from the lasso itself, if it should
+happen to get round his body, in which case he would probably be
+almost cut in half by the sudden jerk.
+
+[Illustration: Lassoing Horses.]
+
+The next proceeding was to cast a lasso at a _potro_, or unbroken
+colt, who was galloping about in the very centre of the troop, at full
+speed. His fore legs were caught dexterously in the noose, which
+brought him up, or rather down, instantly, head over heels. Another
+lasso was then thrown over his head, and drawn quite tight round his
+neck, and a bridle, composed of two or three thongs of raw hide, was
+forced into his mouth by means of a slip-knot rein. A sheepskin saddle
+was placed on his back, the man who was to ride him standing over him,
+with one foot already in the stirrup. All this time the poor horse was
+lying on the ground, with his legs tied close together, frightened
+almost out of his life, trembling in every limb, and perspiring from
+every pore. When the man was ready, the horse's legs were loosened
+sufficiently to allow him to rise, and he was then led outside the
+corral. The lassoes were suddenly withdrawn, and he dashed forwards,
+springing and plunging upwards, sideways, downwards, in every
+direction, in the vain effort to rid himself of his unaccustomed load.
+The man remained planted, like a rock, in the saddle, pulling hard at
+the bridle, while a second domidor, mounted on a tame horse, pursued
+the terrified animal, striking him with a cruel whip to make him go in
+the required direction. After about ten minutes of this severe
+exercise, the captive returned to the corral, exhausted, and perfectly
+cowed, and showing no desire to rejoin his late companions. In order
+to complete the process of breaking him in, we were told that it would
+be necessary to keep him tied up for two or three days, rather short
+of food, and to repeat daily the operation of saddling, bridling, and
+mounting, the difficulty being less on each occasion, until at last he
+would become as quiet as a lamb.
+
+We now saw our train approaching, orders having been given for it to
+come as far as it could from the station to meet us. We wished
+good-bye to Mr. Frer and his party, and, with many thanks to all, got
+into our carriages and drove across the plains to the railway. On our
+way we passed some large lagunes, full of wild fowl, and surrounded by
+scarlet flamingoes and pelicans. The ground we had to traverse was
+very boggy; so much so, that two of the carriages got stuck, and their
+occupants had to turn out and walk. At last we reached the train, and
+climbed into the cars, where we found an excellent luncheon prepared,
+which we ate whilst the train dashed along at the rate of forty miles
+an hour. About seven o'clock we stopped for tea and coffee, and the
+children were put to bed. By nine we had reached the junction for
+Buenos Ayres, where an engine met us, and took most of our party into
+the city, in one of the cars, while we went on to Punta Lara, the
+station for Ensenada.
+
+On arriving we were met by several of our men, who had been allowed to
+go ashore at Buenos Ayres on Sunday morning, and had not been able to
+rejoin the yacht since. On Sunday night, when they were to have
+returned, it was impossible for them to get off. Even the whale-boat
+was nearly dashed to pieces, at anchor, near the pier. They spent the
+early part of Monday morning in hunting everywhere with the pilot for
+the lost steward, and at last left the shore just in time to see the
+yacht steaming down the river, with only half her crew on board, and
+without a pilot. It seems they had been waited for from eight o'clock
+until eleven; it then became necessary to get under way, for fear of
+losing the tide. As it was, the yacht had not been able to get near
+the pier at Ensenada, and was now lying in the river, two miles out.
+The station-master, having been informed of the state of affairs, very
+kindly had steam got up in the railway tug to take us off. The
+children, with their nurses, remained in bed in the car, which was
+shunted into a siding until the morning, the doctor staying on shore
+in charge. The rest of us then set out for the yacht, which we reached
+at 1 a.m., only to be greeted with the pleasing intelligence that no
+fresh provisions had arrived on board for the party of friends we were
+expecting. The captain of the tug was good enough to promise to do
+what he could for us on shore; but everything is brought here from
+Buenos Ayres, and it is too late to telegraph for a supply. We cannot
+help fearing that something must have happened to our steward, for he
+has always been most steady and respectable hitherto, and I fancy
+Buenos Ayres is rather a wild place. Every inquiry is to be made, and
+I can only trust the morning may bring us some news.
+
+_Tuesday, September 26th_.--The morning was fine, with a nice breeze,
+but the tide was so low that we should have been unable to get
+alongside the pier until ten o'clock, when Tom thought we should just
+miss our guests. It was therefore decided that it would be better to
+send the steam-tug to meet the special train, especially as, if we
+took the yacht in, it would be impossible to get out again in the
+middle of the night, when we had arranged to sail.
+
+The steam-tug came off early, bringing two sheep, half a bullock, and
+some wild ducks, much to the relief of the cook's mind; but there were
+no vegetables to be had on shore, and of course it was too late to
+send to Buenos Ayres for any. We had to do the best we could without
+them, therefore, and I really do not think any one knew of the dilemma
+we had been in, until they were told, at the end of the day. The
+servants all turned to and worked with a will; but it was rather a
+different matter from having a large luncheon party on board in the
+Thames, with our London servants and supplies to fall back upon.
+
+For our own part, I think we all felt that the comparative scarcity of
+meat this morning was an agreeable change, after our recent
+experiences. Animal food is so cheap and so good in this country that
+at every meal four or five dishes of beef or mutton, dressed in
+various ways, are provided. In the camp--as all the country round
+Buenos Ayres is called--people eat nothing but meat, either fresh or
+dried, and hardly any flour with it. Especially in the more distant
+estancias, beef and mutton, poultry and eggs, form the staple food of
+the inhabitants. Very little bread is eaten, and no vegetables, and an
+attempt is rarely made to cultivate a garden of any sort. This year,
+too, the ravages of the locusts have made vegetable food scarcer than
+ever, and it must now be looked upon quite as a luxury by very many
+people; for there can be little doubt that to live entirely on meat,
+even of the best quality, though probably strengthening, must be
+exceedingly monotonous.
+
+About one o'clock we saw the tug coming off again, this time with her
+decks crowded. We found she had brought us fifteen ladies and thirty
+gentlemen--more than we had expected, on account of the shortness of
+the notice we had been able to give. The luncheon was managed by
+dividing our guests into three parties, the coffee and dessert being
+served on deck; but I am afraid the last division got very hungry
+before their time arrived. It could not, however, be helped, and it is
+to be hoped that the examination of the various parts of the yacht and
+her contents served to while away the time. Every one seemed to be
+pleased with the appearance of the vessel, never having seen one like
+her before. Indeed, the only yacht that has ever been here previously
+is the 'Eothen,' which formerly belonged to us.
+
+Mr. St. John's servant brought me a most magnificent bouquet, composed
+entirely of violets, arranged in the shape of a basket, three feet in
+width, full of camellias, and marked with my initials in alyssum.
+Altogether it was quite a work of art, but almost overpoweringly
+sweet.
+
+It was late before our friends began the task of saying good-bye--no
+light matter where, as in the present case, it is doubtful whether, or
+at any rate when, we shall meet again. At last they left us, steaming
+round the yacht in the tug, and giving us some hearty cheers as they
+passed. The Minister's flag was run up, salutes were exchanged, and
+the little steamer rapidly started off in the direction of the shore,
+followed by a dense cloud of her own smoke. Through a telescope we
+watched our friends disembark at the pier, and saw the train steam
+away; and then we turned our thoughts to the arrangements for our own
+departure.
+
+_Wednesday, September 27th_.--A fine breeze was blowing this morning,
+in a favourable direction for our start, but as ten and eleven o'clock
+arrived, and there were still no signs of the expected stores, Tom was
+in despair, and wanted to sail without them. I therefore volunteered
+to go ashore in the gig and see what had happened to them, and
+telegraph, if necessary, to Mr. Crabtree. Fortunately, we met the tug
+on our way, and returned in tow of her to the yacht. Then, after
+settling a few bills, and obtaining our bill of health, we got the
+anchor up, and proceeded down the river under sail. Between one and
+two o'clock we commenced steaming, and in the course of the evening
+were clear of the River Plate and fairly on our way to the Straits of
+Magellan.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+RIVER PLATE TO SANDY POINT, STRAITS OF MAGELLAN.
+
+    _I have seen tempests, when the scolding winds_
+    _Have riv'd the knotty oaks; and I have seen_
+    _The ambitious ocean swell and rage and foam,_
+    _To be exalted with the threat'ning clouds:_
+    _But never till to-night, never till now_
+    _Did I go through a tempest dropping fire._
+
+
+_Thursday, September 28th_,--A fine bright morning, with a strong,
+fair wind. The order to stop firing was given at noon, and we ceased
+steaming shortly after. There had evidently been a gale from the
+southward during the last few days, for the swell was tremendous, and
+not only made us all feel very uncomfortable after our long stay in
+harbour, but considerably diminished our speed. Still, we managed to
+go twenty-seven knots in two hours and a half.
+
+I was lying down, below, after breakfast, feeling very stupid, when
+Mabelle rushed into the cabin, saying, 'Papa says you are to come up
+on deck at once, to see the ship on fire.' I rushed up quickly, hardly
+knowing whether she referred to our own or some other vessel, and on
+reaching the deck I found everybody looking at a large barque, under
+full sail, flying the red union-jack upside down, and with signals in
+her rigging, which our signal-man read as 'Ship on fire.' These were
+lowered shortly afterwards, and the signals, 'Come on board at once,'
+hoisted in their place. Still we could see no appearance of smoke or
+flames, but we nevertheless hauled to the wind, tacked, hove to, and
+sent off a boat's crew, well armed, thinking it not impossible that a
+mutiny had taken place on board and that the captain or officers,
+mistaking the yacht for a gunboat, had appealed to us for assistance.
+We were now near enough to the barque to make out her name through a
+glass--the 'Monkshaven,' of Whitby--and we observed a puff of smoke
+issue from her deck simultaneously with the arrival of our boat
+alongside. In the course of a few minutes, the boat returned, bringing
+the mate of the 'Monkshaven,' a fine-looking Norwegian, who spoke
+English perfectly, and who reported his ship to be sixty-eight days
+out from Swansea, bound for Valparaiso, with a cargo of smelting coal.
+The fire had first been discovered on the previous Sunday, and by 6
+a.m. on Monday the crew had got up their clothes and provisions on
+deck, thrown overboard all articles of a combustible character, such
+as tar, oil, paint, spare spars and sails, planks, and rope, and
+battened down the hatches. Ever since then they had all been living on
+deck, with no protection from the wind and sea but a canvas screen.
+Tom and Captain Brown proceeded on board at once. They found the deck
+more than a foot deep in water, and all a-wash; when the hatches were
+opened for a moment dense clouds of hot suffocating yellow smoke
+immediately poured forth, driving back all who stood near. From the
+captain's cabin came volumes of poisonous gas, which had found its way
+in through the crevices, and one man, who tried to enter, was rendered
+insensible.
+
+[Illustration: Monkshaven on Fire.]
+
+It was perfectly evident that it would be impossible to save the ship,
+and the captain therefore determined, after consultation with Tom and
+Captain Brown, to abandon her. Some of the crew were accordingly at
+once brought on board the 'Sunbeam,' in our boat, which was then sent
+back to assist in removing the remainder, a portion of whom came in
+their own boat. The poor fellows were almost wild with joy at getting
+alongside another ship, after all the hardships they had gone through,
+and in their excitement they threw overboard many things which they
+might as well have kept, as they had taken the trouble to bring them.
+Our boat made three trips altogether, and by half-past six we had them
+all safe on board, with most of their effects, and the ship's
+chronometers, charts, and papers.
+
+The poor little dingy, belonging to the 'Monkshaven,' had been cast
+away as soon as the men had disembarked from her, and there was
+something melancholy in seeing her slowly drift away to leeward,
+followed by her oars and various small articles, as if to rejoin the
+noble ship she had so lately quitted. The latter was now hove-to,
+under full sail, an occasional puff of smoke alone betraying the
+presence of the demon of destruction within. The sky was dark and
+lowering, the sunset red and lurid in its grandeur, the clouds
+numerous and threatening, the sea high and dark, with occasional
+streaks of white foam. Not a breath of wind was stirring. Everything
+portended a gale. As we lay slowly rolling from side to side, both
+ship and boat were sometimes plainly visible, and then again both
+would disappear, for what seemed an age, in the deep trough of the
+South Atlantic rollers.
+
+For two hours we could see the smoke pouring from various portions of
+the ill-fated barque. Our men, who had brought off the last of her
+crew, reported that, as they left her, flames were just beginning to
+burst from the fore-hatchway; and it was therefore certain that the
+rescue had not taken place an hour too soon. Whilst we were at dinner,
+Powell called us up on deck to look at her again, when we found that
+she was blazing like a tar-barrel. The captain was anxious to stay by
+and see the last of her, but Tom was unwilling to incur the delay
+which this would have involved. We accordingly got up steam, and at
+nine p.m. steamed round the 'Monkshaven,' as close as it was deemed
+prudent to go. No flames were visible then; only dense volumes of
+smoke and sparks, issuing from the hatches. The heat, however, was
+intense, and could be plainly felt, even in the cold night air, as we
+passed some distance to leeward. All hands were clustered in our
+rigging, on the deck-house or on the bridge, to see the last of the
+poor 'Monkshaven,' as she was slowly being burnt down to the water's
+edge.
+
+She was a large and nearly new (three years old) composite ship, built
+and found by her owners, Messrs. Smales, of Whitby, of 657 tons
+burden, and classed A 1 for ten years at Lloyd's. Her cargo, which
+consisted of coal for smelting purposes, was a very dangerous one; so
+much so that Messrs. Nicholas, of Sunderland, from whose mines the
+coal is procured, have great difficulty in chartering vessels to carry
+it, and are therefore in the habit of building and using their own
+ships for the purpose. At Buenos Ayres we were told that, of every
+three ships carrying this cargo round to Valparaiso or Callao, one
+catches fire, though the danger is frequently discovered in time to
+prevent much damage to the vessel or loss of life.
+
+The crew of the 'Monkshaven'--Danes, Norwegians, Swedes, Scotch, and
+Welsh--appear to be quiet, respectable men. This is fortunate, as an
+incursion of fifteen rough lawless spirits on board our little vessel
+would have been rather a serious matter. In their hurry and fright,
+however, they left all their provisions behind them, and it is no joke
+to have to provide food for fifteen extra hungry mouths for a week or
+ten days, with no shops at hand from which to replenish our stores.
+The sufficiency of the water supply, too, is a matter for serious
+consideration. We have all been put on half-allowance, and sea-water
+only is to be used for washing purposes.
+
+[Illustration: Shipwrecked Crew coming on Board.]
+
+Some account of the disaster, as gathered from the lips of various
+members of the crew at different times, may perhaps be interesting. It
+seems that, early on Monday morning, the day following that on which
+the fire was discovered, another barque, the 'Robert Hinds,' of
+Liverpool, was spoken. The captain of that vessel offered to stand by
+them or do anything in his power to help them; but at that time they
+had a fair wind for Monte Video, only 120 miles distant, and they
+therefore determined to run for that port, and do their best to save
+the ship, and possibly some of the cargo. In the course of the night,
+however, a terrible gale sprang up, the same, no doubt, as the one of
+which we had felt the effects on first leaving the River Plate. They
+were driven hither and thither, the sea constantly breaking over them
+and sweeping the decks, though fortunately without washing any of them
+overboard. After forty-eight hours of this rough usage the men were
+all exhausted, while the fire was gradually increasing in strength
+beneath their feet, and they knew not at what moment it might burst
+through the decks and envelope the whole ship in flames. They were
+beginning to abandon all hope of a rescue, when a sail was suddenly
+discovered; and as soon as the necessary flags could be found, the
+same signal which attracted us was displayed. The vessel, now quite
+close to them, proved to be a large American steamer, but she merely
+hoisted her own ensign and code-pennant, and then coolly steamed away
+to the southward. 'I think that captain deserved tarring and
+feathering, anyway,' one of the men said to me. Another observed, 'I
+wonder what will become of that man; for we had put all our lives in
+his hand by signalling as we did; and every seaman knows that right
+well.' Another said, 'When we saw that ship go away, we all gave in
+and lay down in despair to die. But our captain, who is very good to
+his crew, and a religious man too, said, "There is One above who looks
+after us all." That was true enough, for, about ten minutes
+afterwards, as I was talking to the cook, and telling him it was all
+over with us, I saw a sail to leeward, and informed the captain. We
+bore down a little, but did not like to go out of our course too much,
+fearing you might be a "Portuguese," and play us the same trick as the
+American.' (They could not understand our white ensign; for, our
+funnel being stowed, we looked like a sailing vessel, while all
+gunboats of our size are steamers.) 'When we saw it was an English
+vessel, and that you answered our signals and sent a boat off, we were
+indeed thankful; though that was nothing to what we feel now at once
+more having a really dry ship under our feet. Not that we have really
+suffered anything very terrible, for we had a bit of shelter, and
+plenty to eat, and the worst part was seeing our things washed
+overboard, and thinking perhaps we might go next. We have not had a
+dry deck since we left Swansea, and the pumps have been kept going
+most of the time. Why, with this sea, ma'am, our decks would be under
+water.' (This surprised me; as, though low in the water, the
+'Monkshaven' did not appear to be overladen, and the Plimsoll mark was
+plainly visible.) 'Our boats were all ready for launching, but we had
+no sails, and only one rudder for the three; so we should have had
+hard work to fetch anywhere if we had taken to them. We lashed the two
+boys--apprentices, fourteen and sixteen years old--in one of the
+boats, for fear they should be washed overboard. The youngest of them
+is the only son of his mother, a widow; and you could see how she
+loved him by the way she had made his clothes, and fitted him out all
+through. He was altogether too well found for a ship like ours, but
+now most of his things are lost. His chest could not be got up from
+below, and though I borrowed an old bread-bag from the steward, it was
+not half big enough, and his sea-boots and things his mother had given
+him to keep him dry and cover his bed--not oilskins, like
+ours.'--'Mackintoshes,' I suggested.--'Yes, that's the name--they were
+all lost. It did seem a pity. The boy never thought there was much
+danger till this morning, when I told him all hope was gone, as the
+American ship had sailed away from us. He said, "Will the ship go to
+the bottom?" and I replied, "I fear so; but we have good boats, so
+keep up your heart, little man." He made no further remark, but laid
+down gently again, and cried a little.'
+
+This poor child was dreadfully frightened in the small boat coming
+alongside, and his look of joy and relief, when once he got safely on
+board, was a treat to me. Every one on board, including the captain,
+seems to have been very kind to him. One of the men had his foot
+broken by the sea, and the captain himself had his leg severely
+injured; so the Doctor has some cases at last.
+
+It was almost impossible to sleep during the night, owing to the heavy
+rolling, by far the most violent that we have yet experienced.
+
+_Friday, September 29th_.--Again a fine morning. A fair breeze sprang
+up, and, the dreaded storm having apparently passed over, we ceased
+steaming at 6 a.m.
+
+All on board are now settling down into something like order. The
+stewards are arranging matters below, and measuring out the stores, to
+allowance the men for twelve days. The men belonging respectively to
+the port and starboard watches of the 'Monkshaven' have been placed in
+the corresponding watches on board the 'Sunbeam.' The cook and steward
+are assisting ours below, and the two boys are very happy, helping in
+the kitchen, and making themselves generally useful. The deck does not
+look quite as neat as usual. Such of the men's sea-chests as have been
+saved are lashed round the steam-chest, so that they can be got at
+easily, while their bags and other odd things have been stowed on
+deck, wherever they can be kept dry; for every inch of available space
+below is occupied. Captain Runciman is writing, with tears in his
+eyes, the account of the loss of his fine ship. He tells me that he
+tried in vain to save sixty pounds' worth of his own private charts
+from his cabin, but it was impossible, on account of the stifling
+atmosphere, which nearly overpowered him. Fortunately, all his things
+are insured. He drowned his favourite dog, a splendid Newfoundland,
+just before leaving the ship; for, although a capital watch-dog, and
+very faithful, he was rather large and fierce; and when it was known
+that the 'Sunbeam' was a yacht, with ladies and children on board, he
+feared to introduce him. Poor fellow! I wish I had known about it in
+time to save his life!
+
+The great danger of smelting coal, as a ship's cargo, besides its
+special liability to spontaneous combustion, appears to be that the
+fire may smoulder in the very centre of the mass for so long that,
+when the smoke is at last discovered, it is impossible to know how far
+the mischief has advanced. It may go on smouldering quietly for days,
+or at any moment the gas that has been generated may burst up the
+vessel's decks from end to end, without the slightest warning. Or it
+may burn downwards, and penetrate some portion of the side of the ship
+below water; so that, before any suspicion has been aroused, the water
+rushes in, and the unfortunate ship and her crew go to the bottom. On
+board the 'Monkshaven' the men dug down into the cargo in many places
+on Sunday night, only to find that the heat became more intense the
+deeper they went; and several of them had their hands or fingers burnt
+in the operation.
+
+This has been about the best day for sailing that we have had since we
+left the tropics. The sea has been smooth, and a fair breeze has taken
+us steadily along at the rate of nine knots an hour. The sun shone
+brightly beneath a blue sky, and the temperature is delightful. The
+sunset was grand, though the sky looked threatening; but the moon rose
+brilliantly, and until we went to bed, at ten o'clock, the evening was
+as perfect as the day had been. At midnight, however, Tom and I were
+awakened by a knock at our cabin door, and the gruff voice of Powell,
+saying: 'The barometer's going down very fast, please, sir, and it's
+lightning awful in the sou'-west. There's a heavy storm coming up.' We
+were soon on deck, where we found all hands busily engaged in
+preparing for the tempest. Around us a splendid sight presented
+itself. On one side a heavy bank of black clouds could be seen rapidly
+approaching, while the rest of the heavens were brilliantly
+illuminated by forked and sheet lightning, the thunder meanwhile
+rolling and rattling without intermission. An ominous calm followed,
+during which the men had barely time to lower all the sails on deck,
+without waiting to stow them, the foresail and jib only being left
+standing, when the squall struck us, not very severely, but with a
+blast as hot as that from a furnace. We thought worse was coming, and
+continued our preparations; but the storm passed rapidly away to
+windward, and was succeeded by torrents of rain, so that it was
+evident we could only have had quite the tail of it.
+
+_Saturday, September 30th_.--The morning broke bright and clear, and
+was followed by a calm, bright, sunny day, of which I availed myself
+to take some photographs of the captain and crew of the 'Monkshaven.'
+The wind failed us entirely in the afternoon, and it became necessary
+to get up steam. In the ordinary course of things, we should probably
+have had sufficient patience to wait for the return of the breeze; but
+the recent large addition to our party made it desirable for us to
+lose as little time as possible in reaching Sandy Point. Another grand
+but wild-looking sunset seemed like the precursor of a storm; but we
+experienced nothing worse than a sharp squall of hot wind, accompanied
+by thunder and lightning.
+
+_Sunday, October 1st_.--A fine morning, with a fair wind. At eleven we
+had a short service, at four a longer one, with an excellent sermon
+from Tom, specially adapted to the rescue of the crew of the burning
+ship. As usual, the sunset, which was magnificent, was succeeded by a
+slight storm, which passed over without doing us any harm.
+
+I have said that it was found impossible to save any provisions from
+the 'Monkshaven.' As far as the men are concerned, I think this is
+hardly to be regretted, for I am told that the salt beef with which
+they were supplied had lain in pickle for so many years that the
+saltpetre had eaten all the nourishment out of it, and had made it so
+hard that the men, instead of eating it, used to amuse themselves by
+carving it into snuff-boxes, little models of ships, &c. I should
+not, however, omit to mention that Captain Runciman managed to bring
+away with him four excellent York hams, which he presented to us, and
+one of which we had to-day at dinner.
+
+_Wednesday, October 4th_.--At 6 a.m., on going on deck I found we were
+hove-to under steam and closely-reefed sails, a heavy gale blowing
+from the south-west, right ahead. The screw was racing round in the
+air every time we encountered an unusually big wave; the spray was
+dashing over the vessel, and the water was rushing along the
+deck--altogether an uncomfortable morning. As the sun rose, the gale
+abated, and in the course of the day the reefs were shaken out of the
+sails, one by one, until, by sunset, we were once more under whole
+canvas, beating to windward. There were several cries of 'land ahead'
+during the day, but in each case a closer examination, through a
+glass, proved that the fancied coast-line or mountain-top existed only
+in cloud-land.
+
+_Thursday, October 5th_.--We made the land early, and most
+uninteresting it looked, consisting, as it did, of a low sandy shore,
+with a background of light clay-coloured cliffs. Not a vestige of
+vegetation was anywhere to be seen, and I am quite at a loss to
+imagine what the guanacos and ostriches, with which the chart tells us
+the country hereabouts abounds, find to live upon. About twelve
+o'clock we made Cape Virgins, looking very like Berry Head to the
+north of Torbay, and a long spit of low sandy land, stretching out to
+the southward, appropriately called Dungeness.
+
+Some of the charts brought on board by Captain Runciman were published
+by Messrs. Imray, of London, and in one of them it is represented that
+a fine fixed light has been established on Cape Virgins.[2] This we
+knew to be an impossibility, not only on account of the general
+character of the country, but because no indication is given of the
+light in our newest Admiralty charts. Captain Runciman, however, had
+more confidence in the correctness of his own chart, and could hardly
+believe his eyes when he saw that the light really had no existence on
+the bare bleak headland. His faith was terribly shaken, and I hope he
+will not omit to call Messrs. Imray's attention to the matter on his
+return home; for the mistake is most serious, and one which might lead
+to the destruction of many a good ship.
+
+[Footnote 2: I have since received a letter from Messrs. Imray
+requesting me to state that the light was inserted on erroneous
+information from the hydrographic office at Washington, and has since
+been erased from their charts.]
+
+About two o'clock we saw in the far distance what looked at first like
+an island, and then like smoke, but gradually shaped itself into the
+masts, funnel, and hull of a large steamer. From her rig we at once
+guessed her to be the Pacific Company's mail boat, homeward bound.
+When near enough, we accordingly hoisted our number, and signalled 'We
+wish to communicate,' whereupon she bore down upon us and ceased
+steaming. We then rounded up under her lee and lowered a boat, and
+Tom, Mabelle, and I, with Captain Runciman and four or five of the
+shipwrecked crew, went on board. Our advent caused great excitement,
+and seamen and passengers all crowded into the bows to watch us. As we
+approached the ladder the passengers ran aft, and directly we reached
+the deck the captain took possession of Tom, the first and second
+officers of Mabelle and myself, while Captain Runciman and each of his
+crew were surrounded by a little audience eager to know what had
+happened, and all about it. At first it was thought that we all wanted
+a passage, but when we explained matters Captain Thomas, the commander
+of the 'Illimani,' very kindly undertook to receive all our refugees
+and convey them to England. We therefore sent the gig back for the
+rest of the men and the chests of the whole party, and then availed
+ourselves of the opportunity afforded by the delay to walk round the
+ship. It was most amusing to see the interest with which we were
+regarded by all on board. Passengers who had never been seen out of
+their berths since leaving Valparaiso, and others who were indulging,
+at the time of our visit, in the luxury of a 'day sleep,' between the
+twelve o'clock luncheon and four o'clock dinner, suddenly made their
+appearance, in dressing-gowns and wraps, with dishevelled hair and
+wide-opened eyes, gazing in mute astonishment at us, quite unable to
+account for our mysterious arrival on board in this out-of-the-way
+spot. A mail steamer does not stop for a light cause, and it was
+therefore evident to them that the present was no ordinary occurrence.
+The captain told us that the last time he passed through the Straits
+he picked up two boats' crews, who had escaped from a burning ship,
+and who had suffered indescribable hardships before they were rescued.
+
+Captain Runciman is convinced, after comparing notes with the chief
+officer of the 'Illimani,' that the vessel which refused to notice his
+signal of distress was the 'Wilmington,' sent down from New York, with
+a party of forty wreckers, to try and get the steamer 'Georgia' off
+the rocks near Port Famine, in the Straits of Magellan. If this be so,
+it is the more surprising that no attempt was made to render
+assistance to the 'Monkshaven,' provided her signals were understood,
+as the 'Wilmington' had plenty of spare hands, and could not have been
+in a particular hurry. Moreover, one would think that, with her
+powerful engines, she might have made an attempt to tow the distressed
+vessel into Monte Video, and so secure three or four thousand pounds
+of salvage money.
+
+The captain of the 'Illimani' kindly gave us half a bullock, killed
+this morning, a dozen live ducks and chickens, and the latest
+newspapers. Thus supplied with food for body and mind, we said
+farewell, and returned to the 'Sunbeam;' our ensigns were duly dipped,
+we steamed away on our respective courses, and in less than an hour we
+were out of sight of each other. It is a sudden change for the
+'Monkshaven' men, who were all very reluctant to leave the yacht. Many
+of them broke down at the last moment, particularly when it came to
+saying good-bye to Tom and me, at the gangway of the steamer. They had
+seemed thoroughly to appreciate any kindnesses they received while
+with us, and were anxious to show their gratitude in every possible
+way. The two boys, especially, were in great grief at their departure,
+and were very loth to part with their boatswain, who remains with us
+to make up our complement.[3]
+
+[Footnote 3: After our return to England the following letter reached
+us from Messrs. Smales:--
+
+                                       'Whitby, June 30th, 1877.
+'THOMAS BRASSEY, Esq.
+
+'DEAR SIR,--Observing by the newspapers that you have returned home
+after your cruise, we take this opportunity of thanking you most
+heartily for the valuable assistance you rendered to the crew of our
+late barque "Monkshaven," in lat. 43 28 S., lon. 62 21 W., after she
+proved to be on fire and beyond saving. Your kind favour of October 1
+last duly reached us, and it was very satisfactory to know from an
+authority like your own, that all was done under the trying
+circumstances that was possible, to save the ship and cargo. The
+inconvenience of having so many extra hands for the time on board your
+vessel, must have tried your resources; but you will be probably aware
+that the Board of Trade willingly compensate for loss sustained in
+rescuing a crew, when a claim is made. You will be glad to learn that
+the master and crew arrived all well, in due course, at Liverpool, by
+the "Illimani," and were very grateful for your kindness to them. Our
+ill-fated vessel must have sunk very soon after you took off the crew,
+as nothing more has been heard of her, and it was a most fortunate
+circumstance that you were so near at hand, more especially as the
+captain reported to us, that a vessel carrying the American colours
+took no notice of his signal of distress. As shipowners, we generally
+find that our own countrymen are more heroic, and always ready to lend
+a helping hand to brother mariners in distress, so that, as you say,
+we do not doubt you experienced some satisfaction in rendering this
+service.--Trusting that you have enjoyed your trip, we beg to remain
+yours, truly obliged,
+
+                                                'SMALES Brothers.']
+
+About 8 p.m. we anchored for the night in Possession Bay. It was thick
+at sunset, but afterwards clear and cold, with a splendid moon.
+
+_Friday, October 6th_.--We got under way at 5.30 a.m., and steamed
+past the low sandy coast of Patagonia and the rugged mountains of
+Tierra del Fuego, and through the First and Second Narrows, to Cape
+Negro, where the character of the scenery began to improve a little,
+the vegetation gradually changing from low scrubby brushwood to
+respectable-sized trees. When passing between Elizabeth Island, so
+named by Sir Francis Drake, and the island of Santa Madalena, we
+looked in vain for the myriads of seals, otters, and sea-lions with
+which this portion of the Straits is said to abound; but we saw only
+seven or eight little black spots on the shore, in the distance, which
+disappeared into the sea as we approached.
+
+At 3 p.m. we reached Sandy Point, the only civilised place in the
+Straits. It is a Chilian settlement, and a large convict establishment
+has been formed here by the Government. Almost before we had dropped
+our anchor, the harbour-master came on board, closely followed by the
+officers of the two Chilian men-of-war lying in the harbour. The rain,
+which had been threatening all day, now descended in torrents, and we
+landed in a perfect downpour. We thought the pier at Buenos Ayres
+unsafe and rickety, but here matters were still worse, for the head of
+the structure had been completely washed away by a gale, and no little
+care was necessary in order to step across the broken timbers in
+safety. The town, which contains between 1,200 and 1,300 inhabitants,
+is composed entirely of one-storied log huts, with slate or tile
+roofs, and with or without verandahs. They are all arranged in
+squares, separated from each other by wide roads; and the whole
+settlement is surrounded by stockades. At the further end of the town
+stands the convict prison, distinguished by its tower, and the
+Governor's house, which, though built of wood, is the most
+pretentious-looking edifice in the place. There is a nice little
+church close by, and some tidy-looking barracks.
+
+We went straight to the house of the British Vice-Consul, who received
+us very kindly, and promised to do what he could to assist us in
+obtaining supplies; but the resources of the place are limited, and
+eggs, ship's beef and biscuits, and water, will, I expect, be the sum
+total of what we shall be able to procure. In fact, it is rather
+doubtful whether we shall even be able to renew our stock of coal. In
+the meantime we started off to potter about the town, finding,
+however, very little to amuse us. There were some new-laid ostrich
+eggs to be bought, and some queer-looking worked Patagonian
+saddle-bags.
+
+I fear we shall not see any of the Patagonians themselves, for they
+come to the colony only three or four times a year, to purchase
+supplies, and to sell skins and ostrich eggs. They are a mounted tribe
+of Indians, living on the northern plains, and are now on their way
+down here, to pay one of their periodical visits; but, being
+encumbered with their families, they move very slowly, and are not
+expected to arrive for another ten days. They will no doubt bring a
+splendid supply of skins, just too late for us, which is rather
+disappointing, particularly as we are not likely to have another
+opportunity of meeting with them at any of the places we touch at.
+They live so far in the interior of the country that they very seldom
+visit the coast.
+
+We went to see three Fuegian females, who are living in a house
+belonging to the medical officer of the colony. They were picked up a
+short time since by a passing steamer from a canoe, in which they had
+evidently sought refuge from some kind of cruelty or oppression. The
+biggest of them, a stout fine-looking woman, had a terrible gash in
+her leg, quite recently inflicted, and the youngest was not more than
+eight years old. They appeared cheerful and happy, but we were told
+that they are not likely to live long. After the free life and the
+exposure to which they have been accustomed, civilisation--in the
+shape of clothing and hot houses--almost always kills them. Their
+lungs become diseased, and they die miserably. Their skin is slightly
+copper-coloured, their complexions high-coloured, their hair thick and
+black; and, though certainly not handsome, they are by no means so
+repulsive as I had expected from the descriptions of Cook, Dampier,
+Darwin, and other more recent travellers.
+
+[Illustration: Fuegian Weapons.]
+
+_Saturday, October 7th_.--My birthday. Tom gave me a beautiful
+guanaco-skin robe, and the children presented me with two ostrich
+rugs. The guanaco is a kind of large deer, and it is said that the
+robes made from its skin are the warmest in the world. People here
+assure me that, with the hair turned inside, these robes have afforded
+them sufficient protection to enable them to sleep in comfort in the
+open air, exposed to snow, frost, and rain. They are made from the
+skin of the young fawns, killed before they are thirteen days old, or,
+better still, from the skins of those which have never had an
+independent existence. In colour, the animals are a yellowish brown on
+the back, and white underneath, and they are so small that when each
+skin is split up it produces only two triangular patches, about the
+size of one's hand. A number of these are then, with infinite trouble,
+sewed neatly together by the Indian women, who use the fine leg-sinews
+of the ostrich as thread. Those worn by the caciques, or chiefs, have
+generally a pattern in the centre, a brown edging, and spots of red
+and blue paint on the part which is worn outwards. Such robes are
+particularly difficult to obtain, on account of the labour and time
+necessary to produce them. Each cacique keeps several wives constantly
+employed in making them, of the best as well as of the ordinary
+description. The ostrich rugs, which are made here, are more
+ornamental, though not so warm and light as the guanaco robes. They
+are made of the entire skin of the ostrich, from which the long
+wing-feathers have been pulled out. Mabelle has been given a beautiful
+little rug composed of the skins of thirty little ostriches, all from
+one nest, killed when they were a fortnight old, each skin resembling
+a prettily marked ball of fluff.
+
+At eleven o'clock we went ashore. The Governor had kindly provided
+horses for all the party, and while they were being saddled I took
+some photographs. There are plenty of horses here, but the only
+saddles and bridles to be had are those used by the natives. The
+saddles are very cumbrous and clumsy to look at, though rather
+picturesque. They are formed of two bits of wood, covered with about a
+dozen sheepskins and ponchos; not at all uncomfortable to ride in, and
+very suitable for a night's bivouac in the open. 'Plenty of nice soft
+rugs to lie upon and cover yourself with, instead of a hard English
+saddle for your bed and stirrups for blankets,' as a native once said,
+when asked which he preferred. About one o'clock we started,
+accompanied by the officers commanding the garrison and two attendant
+cavaliers, equipped in Chilian style, with enormous carved modern
+stirrups, heavy bits and spurs much bigger than those whose size
+struck us so much in the Argentine Republic. We had a pleasant ride,
+first across a sandy plain and through one or two small rivers, to a
+saw-mill, situated on the edge of an extensive forest, through which
+we proceeded for some miles. The road was a difficult one, and our
+progress was but slow, being often impeded by a morass or by the trunk
+of a tree which had fallen right across the path, and was now rapidly
+rotting into touchwood under the influence of the damp atmosphere and
+incessant rain. Lichens of every colour and shape abounded, and
+clothed the trunks gracefully, contrasting with the tender spring
+tints of the leaves, while the long hairy tillandsia, like an old
+man's beard, three or four feet long, hung down from the topmost
+branches. The ground was carpeted with moss, interspersed with a few
+early spring flowers, and the whole scene, though utterly unlike that
+presented by any English forest, had a strange weird beauty of its
+own. Not a sound could be heard; not a bird, beast, or insect was to
+be seen. The larger trees were principally a peculiar sort of beech
+and red cedar, but all kinds of evergreens, known to us at home as
+shrubs, such as laurestine, and various firs, here attain the
+proportions of forest-trees. There is also a tree called Winter's Bark
+(_Drimys Winteri_), the leaves and bark of which are hot and bitter,
+and form an excellent substitute for quinine. But the most striking
+objects were the evergreen berberis and mahonia, and the Darwinia, the
+larger sort of which was covered with brilliant orange, almost
+scarlet, flowers, which hung down in bunches, of the shape and size of
+small outdoor grapes.
+
+[Illustration: Fuegian Bow and Arrows.]
+
+On our way back we took a sharp turn leading to the sea-shore, to
+which the forest extends in places, and rode along the beach towards
+the town. It was low water, or this would not have been possible, and
+as it was, we often had considerable difficulty in making our way
+between wood and water. The day was bright and clear, with a bitterly
+cold wind and occasional heavy showers of rain; a fair average day
+for Sandy Point. It is further west, they say, that the weather is so
+hopeless. Lieutenant Byron, in his terribly interesting account of the
+wreck of the 'Wager,' says that one fine day in three months is the
+most that can be expected. I wonder, not without misgivings, if we
+really shall encounter all the bad weather we not only read of but
+hear of from every one we meet. Though very anxious to see the
+celebrated Straits, I shall not be sorry when we are safely through,
+and I trust that the passage may not occupy the whole of the three
+weeks which Tom has been advised to allow for it.
+
+We saw a few sea-birds, specially some 'steamer-ducks,' so called from
+their peculiar mode of progression through the water. They neither
+swim nor fly, but use their wings like the paddles of a steamer, with
+a great noise and splutter, and go along very fast. On reaching the
+plains we had an opportunity of testing the speed of our horses, which
+warmed us up a little after our slow progress by the water's edge in
+the bitter wind. We rode all round the stockades, outside the town,
+before dismounting; but I saw nothing of special interest. Before the
+party broke up, arrangements were made for us to go to morrow to one
+of the Government corrals, to see the cattle lassoed and branded--an
+operation which is always performed twice a year.
+
+We reached the yacht again at half-past five. Dr. Fenton came on board
+to dinner, and from him we heard a great deal about the colony, the
+Patagonians or Horse Indians, and the Fuegians or Canoe Indians. The
+former inhabit, or rather roam over, a vast tract of country. They are
+almost constantly on horseback, and their only shelter consists of
+toldos, or tents, made of the skins of the old guanacos, stretched
+across a few poles. They are tall and strong, averaging six feet in
+height, and are bulky in proportion; but their size is nothing like so
+great as old travellers have represented. Both men and women wear a
+long flowing mantle of skins, reaching from the waist to the ankle,
+with a large loose piece hanging down on one side, ready to be thrown
+over their heads whenever necessary, which is fastened by a large flat
+pin hammered out either from the rough silver or from a dollar. This,
+their sole garment, has the effect of adding greatly in appearance to
+their height. They never wash, but daub their bodies with paint and
+grease, especially the women. Their only weapons are knives and bolas,
+the latter of which they throw with unerring precision. During their
+visits to the Sandy Point settlement their arms are always taken from
+them, for they are extremely quarrelsome, particularly when drunk.
+Nobody has been able to ascertain that they possess any form of sacred
+belief, or that they perform any religious ceremonies. Their food
+consists principally of the flesh of mares, troops of which animals
+always accompany them on their excursions. They also eat
+ostrich-flesh, which is considered a great delicacy, as well as the
+fish the women catch, and the birds' eggs they find. Vegetable food is
+almost unknown to them, and bread is never used, though they do
+sometimes purchase a little flour, rice, and a few biscuits, on the
+occasion of their visits to the colony.
+
+[Illustration: Pin for fastening Cloak, made from a Dollar, beaten
+out.]
+
+The Fuegians, or Canoe Indians, as they are generally called, from
+their living so much on the water, and having no settled habitations
+on shore, are a much smaller race of savages, inhabiting Tierra del
+Fuego--literally Land of Fire--so called from the custom the
+inhabitants have of lighting fires on prominent points as signals of
+assembly. The English residents here invariably call it Fireland--a
+name I had never heard before, and which rather puzzled me at first.
+Whenever it is observed that a ship is in distress, or that
+shipwrecked mariners have been cast ashore, the signal-fires appear as
+if by magic, and the natives flock together like vultures round a
+carcase. On the other hand, if all goes well, vessels often pass
+through the Straits without seeing a single human being, the savages
+and their canoes lying concealed beneath the overhanging branches of
+trees on the shore. They are cannibals, and are placed by Darwin in
+the lowest scale of humanity. An old author describes them as 'magpies
+in chatter, baboons in countenance, and imps in treachery.' Those
+frequenting the eastern end of the Straits wear--if they wear anything
+at all--a deerskin mantle, descending to the waist: those at the
+western end wear cloaks made from the skin of the sea-otter. But most
+of them are quite naked. Their food is of the most meagre description,
+and consists mainly of shell-fish, sea-eggs, for which the women dive
+with much dexterity, and fish, which they train their dogs to assist
+them in catching. These dogs are sent into the water at the entrance
+to a narrow creek or small bay, and they then bark and flounder about
+and drive the fish before them into shallow water, where they are
+caught.
+
+[Illustration: Fuegian Boat and Oars.]
+
+Bishop Stirling, of the Falkland Islands, has been cruising about
+these parts in a small schooner, and visiting the natives, for the
+last twelve years, and the Governor here tells us that he has done
+much good in promoting their civilisation; while the hardships he has
+endured, and the difficulties and dangers he has surmounted, have
+required almost superhuman energy and fortitude on his part. The
+Fuegians, as far as is known, have no religion of their own.
+
+The 'Wilmington' came in this morning. Her captain declares that as
+the 'Monkshaven' was not hove-to, he never thought that there could be
+anything seriously amiss with her. His glass was not good enough to
+enable him to make out the union-jack reversed, or the signal of
+distress, which he therefore supposed to be merely the ship's number.
+It was satisfactory to hear this explanation; and as not only the
+interests of humanity, but his own, were involved, there is every
+reason to believe that his account of the transaction is perfectly
+true.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+SANDY POINT TO LOTA BAY.
+
+    _And far abroad the canvas wings extend,_
+    _Along the glassy plain the vessel glides,_
+    _While azure radiance trembles on her sides._
+    _The lunar rays in long reflection gleam,_
+    _With silver deluging the fluid stream._
+
+
+_Sunday, October 8th_.--At 6 a.m. we weighed anchor, and proceeded on
+our voyage. At first there was not much to admire in the way of
+scenery, the shores being low and sandy, with occasional patches of
+scrubby brushwood, and a background of granite rocks and mountains.
+
+Soon after passing Port Famine we saw the bold outline of Cape
+Froward, the southernmost point of South America, stretching into the
+Straits. It is a fine headland, and Tom ordered the engines to be
+stopped in order to enable Mr. Bingham to sketch, and me to
+photograph, both it and the splendid view back through the channel we
+had just traversed to the snowy range of mountains in the distance,
+crowned by Mount Sarmiento, not unlike the Matterhorn in appearance.
+
+At this point the weather generally changes, and I suppose we must
+look forward to living in mackintoshes for some little time to come.
+
+In the afternoon, when in English Reach, where many vessels have been
+lost, great excitement was caused on board by the appearance of a
+canoe on our port bow. She was stealing out from the Barbara Channel,
+and as she appeared to be making direct for us, Tom ordered the
+engines to be slowed. Her occupants thereupon redoubled their
+efforts, and came paddling towards us, shouting and making the most
+frantic gesticulations, one man waving a skin round his head with an
+amount of energy that threatened to upset the canoe. This frail craft,
+upon a nearer inspection, proved to be made only of rough planks,
+rudely tied together with the sinews of animals; in fact, one of the
+party had to bale constantly, in order to keep her afloat. We flung
+them a rope, and they came alongside, shouting 'Tabáco, galléta'
+(biscuit), a supply of which we threw down to them, in exchange for
+the skins they had been waving; whereupon the two men stripped
+themselves of the skin mantles they were wearing, made of eight or ten
+sea-otter skins sewed together with finer sinews than those used for
+the boat, and handed them up, clamouring for more tobacco, which we
+gave them, together with some beads and knives.[4] Finally, the woman,
+influenced by this example, parted with her sole garment, in return
+for a little more tobacco, some beads, and some looking-glasses I had
+thrown into the canoe.
+
+[Illustration: Bartering with Fuegians]
+
+[Footnote 4: These skins proved to be the very finest quality ever
+plucked, and each separate skin was valued in England at from 4_l_. to
+5_l_.]
+
+The party consisted of a man, a woman, and a lad; and I think I never
+saw delight more strongly depicted than it was on the faces of the two
+latter, when they handled, for the first time in their lives probably,
+some strings of blue, red, and green glass beads. They had two rough
+pots, made of bark, in the boat, which they also sold, after which
+they reluctantly departed, quite naked but very happy, shouting and
+jabbering away in the most inarticulate language imaginable. It was
+with great difficulty we could make them let go the rope, when we went
+ahead, and I was quite afraid they would be upset. They were all fat
+and healthy-looking, and, though not handsome, their appearance was by
+no means repulsive; the countenance of the woman, especially, wore
+quite a pleasing expression, when lighted up with smiles at the sight
+of the beads and looking-glasses. The bottom of their canoe was
+covered with branches, amongst which the ashes of a recent fire were
+distinguishable. Their paddles were of the very roughest description,
+consisting simply of split branches of trees, with wider pieces tied
+on at one end with the sinews of birds or beasts.
+
+Steaming ahead, past Port Gallant, we had a glorious view over Carlos
+III. Island and Thornton Peaks, until, at about seven o clock, we
+anchored in the little harbour of Borja Bay. This place is encircled
+by luxuriant vegetation, overhanging the water, and is set like a gem
+amid the granite rocks close at hand, and the far-distant snowy
+mountains.
+
+[Illustration: Thornton Peaks]
+
+Our carpenter had prepared a board, on which the name of the yacht and
+the date had been painted, to be fixed on shore, as a record of our
+visit; and as soon as the anchor was down we all landed, the gentlemen
+with their guns, and the crew fully armed with pistols and rifles, in
+case of accident. The water was quite deep close to the shore, and we
+had no difficulty in landing, near a small waterfall. To penetrate far
+inland, however, was not so easy, owing to the denseness of the
+vegetation. Large trees had fallen, and, rotting where they lay, under
+the influence of the humid atmosphere, had become the birthplace of
+thousands of other trees, shrubs, plants, ferns, mosses, and lichens.
+In fact, in some places we might almost be said to be walking on the
+tops of the trees, and first one and then another of the party found
+his feet suddenly slipping through into unknown depths below. Under
+these circumstances we were contented with a very short ramble, and
+having filled our baskets with a varied collection of mosses and
+ferns, we returned to the shore, where we found many curious shells
+and some excellent mussels. While we had been thus engaged, the
+carpenter and some of the crew were employed in nailing up our board
+on a tree we had selected for the purpose. It was in company with the
+names of many good ships, a portion of which only were still legible,
+many of the boards having fallen to the ground and become quite
+rotten.
+
+Near the beach we found the remains of a recent fire, and in the
+course of the night the watch on deck, which was doubled and
+well-armed, heard shouts and hoots proceeding from the neighbourhood
+of the shore. Towards morning, too, the fire was relighted, from which
+it was evident that the natives were not far off, though they did not
+actually put in an appearance. I suppose they think there is a
+probability of making something out of us by fair means, and that,
+unlike a sealing schooner, with only four or five hands on board, and
+no motive power but her sails, we are rather too formidable to attack.
+
+_Monday, October 9th_.--We are indeed most fortunate in having another
+fine day. At 6 a.m. the anchor was weighed, and we resumed our
+journey. It was very cold; but that was not to be wondered at,
+surrounded as we are on every side by magnificent snow-clad mountains
+and superb glaciers. First we passed Snowy Sound, in Tierra del Fuego,
+at the head of which is an immense blue glacier. Then came Cape Notch,
+so called from its looking as if it had had a piece chopped out of it.
+Within a few yards of the surrounding glaciers, and close to the sea,
+the vegetation is abundant, and in many places semi-tropical, a fact
+which is due to the comparatively mild winters, the temperate summers,
+the moist climate, and the rich soil of these parts. Passing up
+English Reach, we now caught our first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean,
+between Cape Pillar on one side, and Westminster Hall, Shell Bay, and
+Lecky Point, on the other. Steering to the north, and leaving these on
+our left hand, we issued from the Straits of Magellan, and entered
+Smyth's Channel, first passing Glacier Bay and Ice Sound, names which
+speak for themselves. Mount Joy, Mount Burney, with its round
+snow-covered summit, rising six thousand feet from the water, and
+several unnamed peaks, were gradually left behind; until, at last,
+after threading a labyrinth of small islands, we anchored for the
+night in Otter Bay, a snug little cove, at the entrance to the
+intricacies of the Mayne Channel.
+
+[Illustration: Glaciers. Snowy Sound.]
+
+It was almost dark when we arrived, but the children, Captain Brown,
+and I, went on shore for a short time, and gathered a few ferns and
+mosses. We also found the embers of a fire, which showed that the
+natives were not far off, and we therefore thought it prudent to hurry
+on board again before nightfall. No names of ships were to be seen;
+but, in our search for ferns, we may possibly have overlooked them. We
+have not come across any Fuegians to-day, though in two of the places
+we have passed--Shell Bay and Deep Harbour, where a few wigwams are
+left standing as a sort of head-quarters--they are generally to be met
+with. During the night the watch again heard the natives shouting; but
+no attempt was made to re-light the fire we had noticed, until we were
+steaming out of the bay the next morning.
+
+_Tuesday, October 10th_.--In the early morning, when we resumed our
+voyage, the weather was still fine; but a few light clouds were here
+and there visible, and an icy wind, sweeping down from the mountains,
+made it appear very cold, though the thermometer--which averages, I
+think, 40° to 50° all the year round--was not really low. The line of
+perpetual snow commences here at an elevation of from 2,500 to 3,500
+feet only, which adds greatly to the beauty of the scene; and as it is
+now early spring the snow is still unmelted, 500 feet, and even less,
+from the shore. The stupendous glaciers run right down into the sea,
+and immense masses of ice, sometimes larger than a ship, are
+continually breaking off, with a noise like thunder, and falling into
+the water, sending huge waves across to the opposite shore, and
+sometimes completely blocking up the channels. Some of these glaciers,
+composed entirely of blue and green ice and the purest snow, are
+fifteen and twenty miles in length. They are by far the finest we
+have, any of us, ever seen; and even those of Norway and Switzerland
+sink into comparative insignificance beside them. The mountains here
+are not so high as those of Europe, but they really appear more lofty,
+as their entire surface, from the water's edge to the extreme summit,
+is clearly visible. At this end of the Straits they terminate in
+peaks, resembling Gothic spires, carved in the purest snow; truly
+'virgin peaks,' on which the eye of man has but seldom rested, and
+which his foot has never touched. They are generally veiled in clouds
+of snow, mist, and driving rain, and it is quite the exception to see
+them as distinctly as we now do.
+
+After leaving Mayne's Channel, and passing through Union and
+Collingwood Sounds, we found ourselves beneath the shadow of the
+splendid Cordilleras of Sarmiento--quite distinct from Mount
+Sarmiento, already referred to--along the foot of which extended the
+largest glacier we have yet seen.[5] With Tarleton Pass on our right
+hand, and Childer's Pass on the left, we came in sight of Owen's
+Island, one extremity of which is called Mayne Head, and the other
+Cape Brassey, these places having all been so named by Captain Mayne,
+during his survey in the 'Nassau,' in 1869. Near the island of
+Esperanza, the clouds having by that time completely cleared away, and
+the sun shining brightly, we had a splendid view of another range of
+snowy mountains, with Stoke's Monument towering high in their midst.
+The numerous floating icebergs added greatly to the exquisite beauty
+of the scene. Some loomed high as mountains, while others had melted
+into the most fanciful and fairy-like shapes--huge swans, full-rigged
+ships, schooners under full sail, and a hundred other fantastic forms
+and devices. The children were in ecstasies at the sight of them.
+
+[Footnote 5: I should explain that the names of places in these
+Straits frequently occur in duplicate, and even triplicate, which is
+rather confusing.]
+
+As we gradually opened out our anchorage--Puerto Bueno--we found a
+steamer already lying there, which proved to be the 'Dacia,' telegraph
+ship, just in from the Pacific coast. Having dropped our anchor at
+about 5 p.m., we all went on shore, armed as before, some of the
+gentlemen hoping to find a stray duck or two, at a fresh-water lake,
+a little way inland. We met several of the officers of the 'Dacia,'
+who, being the first comers, did the honours of the place, and told us
+all they knew about it. The vegetation was as luxuriant and beautiful
+as usual--in fact, rather more so; for we are now advancing northwards
+at the rate of about a hundred miles a day. There were no ducks in the
+lake, but we enjoyed the scramble alongside it, to the point where it
+falls over some rocks into the sea. The gig was drawn under this
+waterfall, and having been loaded to her thwarts, with about three
+tons and a half of excellent water, she was then towed off to the
+yacht, where the water was emptied into our tanks, which were thus
+filled to the brim. A small iceberg, also towed alongside, afforded us
+a supply of ice; and we were thus cheaply provided with a portion of
+the requisite supplies for our voyage. The 'Dacia' had an iceberg half
+as big as herself lying alongside her, and all hands were at work
+until late at night, aided by the light of lanterns and torches,
+chopping the ice up and stowing it away.
+
+Our boat being thus engaged, we were obliged to wait on shore until
+long past dark; but as we were a large and strong party, it did not
+much matter. Our men amused themselves by collecting a number of large
+and excellent mussels, some of which, distinguishable by the peculiar
+appearance of their shells, arising from a diseased condition of the
+fish, contained from ten to thirty very small seed pearls. The captain
+of the 'Dacia' came to dinner, and the officers in the evening; and
+they gave us much valuable information about the anchorages further up
+the Straits, and many other things. The captain kindly gave Tom all
+his Chilian charts of the Darien Channel, which has not yet been fully
+surveyed by the English Government, though the 'Nassau' passed through
+in 1869.
+
+_Wednesday, October 11th_.--I never in my life saw anything so
+beautiful as the view when I came on deck this morning, at a quarter
+to five. The moon was shining, large and golden, high in the heavens;
+the rosy streaks of dawn were just tinging the virgin snow on the
+highest peaks with faint but ever-deepening colour; whilst all around,
+the foliage, rocks, and icebergs were still wrapped in the deepest
+shade. As the sun rose, the pink summits of the mountains changed to
+gold and yellow, and then to dazzling white, as the light crept down
+into the valleys, illuminating all the dark places, and bringing out
+the shades of olive-greens, greys, and purples, in the most wonderful
+contrasts and combinations of colour. The grandeur of the scene
+increased with every revolution of the screw, and when fairly in the
+Guia narrows we were able to stop and admire it a little more at our
+leisure, Mr. Bingham making some sketches, while I took some
+photographs. To describe the prospect in detail is quite impossible.
+Imagine the grandest Alpine scene you ever saw, with tall snowy peaks
+and pinnacles rising from huge domed tops, and vast fields of unbroken
+snow; glaciers, running down _into_ the sea, at the heads of the
+various bays; each bank and promontory richly clothed with vegetation
+of every shade of green; bold rocks and noble cliffs, covered with
+many-hued lichens; the floating icebergs; the narrow channel itself,
+blue as the sky above, dotted with small islands, each a mass of
+verdure, and reflecting on its glassy surface every object with such
+distinctness that it was difficult to say where the reality ended and
+the image began. I have seen a photograph of the Mirror Lake, in
+California, which, as far as I know, is the only thing that could
+possibly give one an idea of the marvellous effect of these
+reflections. Unfit Bay, on Chatham Island, looking towards the
+mountains near Pill Channel, and Ladder Hill, which looks as if a
+flight of steps had been cut upon its face, were perhaps two of the
+most striking points amid all this loveliness.
+
+All too soon came the inevitable order to steam ahead; and once more
+resuming our course, we passed through Innocents and Conception
+Channels, and entered Wide Channel, which is frequently blocked up
+with ice at this time of year, though to-day we only met with a few
+icebergs on their way down from Eyre Sound.
+
+[Illustration: Unfit Bay]
+
+I have already referred to the extraordinary shapes assumed by some of
+the mountain peaks. That appropriately called Singular Peak--on
+Chatham Island--and Two-peak Mountain and Cathedral Mountain--both on
+Wellington Island--specially attracted our attention to-day. The
+first-named presents a wonderful appearance, from whichever side you
+view it; the second reminds one of the beautiful double spires at
+Tours; while the last resembles the tapering spire of a cathedral,
+rising from a long roof, covered with delicate towers, fret-work, and
+angles. In Wide Channel we felt really compelled to stop again to
+admire some of the unnamed mountains. One we christened Spire
+Mountain, to distinguish it from the rest; it consisted of a single
+needle-like point, piercing deep into the blue vault of heaven, and
+surrounded by a cluster of less lofty but equally sharp pinnacles.
+This group rose from a vast chain of exquisitely tinted snow-peaks,
+that looked almost as if they rested on the vast glacier beneath,
+seamed with dark blue and green crevasses and fissures.
+
+[Illustration: Two-peaked Mountain.]
+
+All this time the weather continued perfect. Not a cloud was to be
+seen, the sun was hot and bright, and the sky was blue enough to rival
+that of classic Italy. If we could but be sure that this delightful
+state of things would continue, how pleasant it would be, to stop and
+explore some of these places. We have, however, been so frequently
+warned of the possibility of detention for days and even weeks at
+anchor, owing to bad weather, that we are hurrying on as fast as we
+can, expecting that every day will bring the much-dreaded deluge,
+gale, or fog. In thick weather it is simply impossible to proceed; and
+if it comes on suddenly, as it generally does, and finds you far from
+an anchorage, there is nothing to be done but to heave-to and wait
+till it clears, sending a party ashore if possible to light a fire, to
+serve as a landmark, and so enable you to maintain your position. How
+thankful I am that we have been hitherto able to make the passage
+under such favourable circumstances! It has been a vision of beauty
+and variety, the recollection of which can never be effaced.
+
+Europe Inlet, on our right, going up Wide Channel, was full of ice.
+Husband's Inlet looked as if it was frozen over at the farther end,
+and Penguin Inlet seemed quite choked up with huge hummocks and blocks
+of ice. Tom therefore decided not to attempt the passage of Icy Reach,
+for fear of being stopped, but to go round Saumarez Island to Port
+Grappler by way of Chasm Reach, rather a longer route. It was a happy
+decision; for nothing could exceed the weird impressive splendour of
+this portion of the Straits. We were passing through a deep gloomy
+mountain gorge, with high perpendicular cliffs on either side. Below,
+all was wrapped in the deepest shade. Far above, the sun gilded the
+snowy peaks and many-tinted foliage with his departing light, that
+slowly turned to rose-colour ere the shades of evening crept over all,
+and the stars began to peep out, one by one. We could trace from the
+summit to the base of a lofty mountain the course of a stupendous
+avalanche, which had recently rushed down into the sea, crushing and
+destroying everything in its way, and leaving a broad track of
+desolation behind it. It must for a time have completely filled up the
+narrow channel; and woe to any unfortunate vessel that might happen to
+be there at such a moment!
+
+Port Grappler is rather a difficult place to make in the dark; but
+Tom managed it with much dexterity, and by eight o'clock we were
+safely anchored for the night. We all wanted Tom to stay here
+to-morrow to get some rest, which he much needs, but he has determined
+to start at five o'clock in the morning as usual, for fear of being
+caught by bad weather. Even I, who have of course had no anxiety as to
+the navigation, felt so fatigued from having been on the bridge the
+whole day since very early this morning, that I went straight to bed
+before dinner, in order to be ready for to-morrow.
+
+[Illustration: Indian Reach]
+
+_Thursday, October 12th_.--A day as perfect as yesterday succeeded a
+clear cold night. We weighed anchor at 5.15 a.m., and, retracing our
+course for a few miles, passed round the end of Saumarez Island, and
+entered the narrow channel leading to Indian Reach. The greatest care
+is here necessary, to avoid several sunken rocks, which have already
+proved fatal to many ships, a large German steamer having been wrecked
+as recently as last year. The smooth but treacherous surface of the
+channel reflected sharply the cliffs and foliage, and its mirror-like
+stillness was only broken at rare intervals, by the sudden appearance
+of a seal in search of a fresh supply of air, or by the efforts,
+delayed until the very last moment, of a few steamer-ducks, gannets,
+or cormorants, to get out of our way.
+
+Having accomplished the passage of Indian Reach in safety, we were
+just passing Eden Harbour, when the cry of 'Canoe ahead!' was raised.
+A boat was seen paddling out towards us from behind Moreton Island,
+containing about half-a-dozen people, apparently armed with bows and
+arrows and spears, and provided with fishing-rods, which projected on
+either side. One man was standing up and waving, in a very excited
+manner, something which turned out ultimately to be a piece of
+cotton-waste. Our engines having been stopped, the canoe came
+alongside, and we beheld six wild-looking half-naked creatures--two
+men, three women, and a very small boy, who was crouching over a fire
+at the bottom of the boat. There were also four sharp, cheery-looking
+little dogs, rather like Esquimaux dogs, only smaller, with prick ears
+and curly tails, who were looking over the side and barking vigorously
+in response to the salutations of our pugs. One man had on a square
+robe of sea-otter skins, thrown over his shoulders, and laced together
+in front, two of the women wore sheepskins, and the rest of the party
+were absolutely naked. Their black hair was long and shaggy, and they
+all clamoured loudly in harsh guttural tones, accompanied by violent
+gesticulations, for 'tabáco' and 'galléta.' We got some ready for
+them, and also some beads, knives, and looking-glasses, but through
+some mistake they did not manage to get hold of our rope in time, and
+as our way carried us ahead they were left behind. The passage was
+narrow, and the current strong, and Tom was anxious to save the tide
+in the dangerous English Narrows. We could not, therefore, give them
+another chance of communicating with us, and accordingly we went on
+our way, followed by what were, I have no doubt, the curses--not only
+deep, but loud--of the whole party, who indulged at the same time in
+the most furious and threatening gestures. I was quite sorry for their
+disappointment at losing their hoped-for luxuries, to say nothing of
+our own at missing the opportunity of bargaining for some more furs
+and curiosities.
+
+Shortly afterwards there were seen from the masthead crowds of natives
+among the trees armed with long spears, bows, and arrows, busily
+engaged pushing off their canoes from their hiding-places in creeks
+and hollows; so perhaps it was just as well we did not stop, or we
+might have been surrounded. Not far from here are the English Narrows,
+a passage which is a ticklish but interesting piece of navigation. A
+strong current prevails, and, to avoid a shoal, it is necessary at one
+point to steer so close to the western shore that the bowsprit almost
+projects over the land, the branches of the trees almost sweep the
+rigging, and the rocks almost scrape the side of the vessel. Two men
+were placed at the wheel, as a matter of precaution, and we appeared
+to be steering straight for the shore, at full speed, till Tom
+suddenly gave the order 'Hard a-port!' and the 'Sunbeam' instantly
+flew round and rushed swiftly past the dangerous spot into wider
+waters. It is just here that Captain Trivett was knocked off the
+bridge of his vessel by the boughs--a mishap he warned Tom against
+before we left England.
+
+Whilst in the Narrows we looked back, to see everything bright and
+cheerful, but ahead all was black and dismal: the sky and sun were
+obscured, the tops of the mountains hidden, and the valleys filled up
+with thick fog and clouds--all which seemed to indicate the approach
+of a storm of rain, although the glass was still very high. We went up
+South Reach and North Reach, in the Messier Channel, till, just as we
+were off Liberta Bay, in lat. 48° 50' S., long. 74° 25' W., the
+blackest of the black clouds came suddenly down upon us, and descended
+upon the deck in a tremendous shower--not of rain, but of _dust_ and
+_ashes_. Windows, hatches, and doors were shut as soon as we
+discovered the nature of this strange visitation, and in about half
+an hour we were through the worst of it: whereupon dustpans, brooms,
+and dusters came into great requisition. It took us completely by
+surprise, for we had no reason to expect anything of the sort.
+Assuming the dust to be of volcanic origin, it must have travelled an
+immense distance; the nearest volcano, as far as we know, being that
+of Corcovado, in the island of Chiloe, nearly 300 miles off. We had
+heard from Sir Woodbine Parish, and others at Buenos Ayres, of the
+terrible blinding dust-storms which occur _there_, causing utter
+darkness for a space of ten or fifteen minutes; but Buenos Ayres is on
+the edge of a river, with hundreds and thousands of leagues of sandy
+plains behind it, the soil of which is only kept together by the roots
+of the wiry pampas grass. For this dust to reach the Messier Channel,
+where we now are, it would have to surmount two chains of snowy
+mountains, six or seven thousand feet in height, and in many places
+hundreds of miles in width, and traverse a vast extent of country
+besides.
+
+The weather was still so fine, and the barometer so high--30.52
+inches--that Tom determined to go to sea to-day, instead of stopping
+at Hale Cove for the night, as we had originally intended. Directly we
+got through the English Narrows, therefore, all hands were busily
+engaged in once more sending up the square-yards, top-masts, &c., and
+in making ready for sea. Just before sunset, as we were quitting the
+narrow channels, the sun pierced through the clouds and lightened up
+the lonely landscape as well as the broad waters of the Pacific Ocean.
+Its surface was scarcely rippled by the gentle breeze that wafted us
+on our course; the light of the setting sun rested, in soft and varied
+tints, on the fast-fading mountains and peaks; and thus, under the
+most favourable and encouraging circumstances, we have fairly entered
+upon a new and important section of our long voyage.
+
+Although perhaps I ought not to say so, I cannot help admiring the
+manner in which Tom has piloted his yacht through the Straits, for it
+would do credit, not only to any amateur, but to a professional
+seaman. He has never hesitated or been at a loss for a moment, however
+intricate the part or complicated the directions; but having
+thoroughly studied and mastered the subject beforehand, he has been
+able to go steadily on at full speed the whole way. It has, however,
+been very fatiguing work for him, as he hardly ever left the bridge
+whilst we were under way.
+
+We steamed the whole distance from Cape Virgins to the Gulf of Peñas,
+659 knots, in 76 hours, anchoring six times. This gives seven days'
+steaming, of an average length of eleven hours each; and as we stopped
+two or three hours, at different times, for Fuegians, photographs, and
+sketches, our average speed was nine and a half knots, though
+sometimes, when going with strong currents, it was twelve or fourteen,
+and, when going against them, barely six knots.
+
+Just at dark, we passed between Wager Island and Cheape Channel, where
+H.M.S. 'Wager,' commanded by Captain Cheape, was wrecked, and we spent
+the night in the Gulf of Peñas, almost becalmed.
+
+_Friday, October 13th_.--We ceased steaming at 7.30 a.m., and made
+every effort throughout the rest of the day, by endless changes of
+sail, to catch each fleeting breath of wind. We did not, however, make
+much progress, owing to the extreme lightness of the breeze.
+
+Sorry as we are to lose the scenery of the Straits, it is pleasant to
+find the weather getting gradually warmer, day by day, and to be able
+to regard the morning bath once more as a luxury instead of a terror.
+The change is also thoroughly appreciated by the various animals we
+have on board, especially the monkeys and parrots, who may now be seen
+sunning themselves in every warm corner of the deck. In the Straits,
+though the sun was hot, there was always an icy feeling in the wind,
+owing to the presence of enormous masses of snow and ice on every
+side.
+
+_Saturday, October 14th_.--Light winds and calms prevailed the whole
+day. About 2 p.m. we were off the island of Socorro. In the afternoon
+a large shoal of whales came round the yacht. I was below when they
+first made their appearance, and when I came on deck they were
+spouting up great jets of water in all directions, suggestive of the
+fountains at the Crystal Palace. We were lying so still that they did
+not seem to be in the least afraid of us, and came quite close,
+swimming alongside, round us, across our bows, and even diving down
+under our keel. There was a shoal of small fish about, and the whales,
+most of which were about fifty or sixty feet in length, constantly
+opened their huge pink whalebone-fringed mouths so wide that we could
+see right down their capacious throats. The children were especially
+delighted with this performance, and baby has learned quite a new
+trick. When asked, 'What do the whales do?' she opens her mouth as
+wide as she can, stretches out her arms to their fullest extent, then
+blows, and finishes up with a look round for applause.
+
+Soon after 8 p.m. the wind completely died away, and, fearing further
+detention, we once more got up steam.
+
+_Sunday, October 15th_.--Still calm. We had the litany and hymns at 11
+a.m.; prayers and hymns and a sermon at 5 p.m. In the course of the
+afternoon we were again surrounded by a shoal of whales. We passed the
+island of Chiloe to-day, where it always rains, and where the
+vegetation is proportionately dense and luxuriant. It is inhabited by
+a tribe of peculiarly gentle Indians, who till the ground, and who are
+said to be kind to strangers thrown amongst them. Darwin and Byron
+speak well of the island and its inhabitants, who are probably more
+civilised since their time, for a steamer now runs regularly once a
+week from Valparaiso to San Carlos and back for garden produce. The
+potato is indigenous to the island.
+
+[Illustration: Catching Cape Pigeons in the Gulf of Peñas]
+
+_Tuesday, October 17th_.--At 6 a.m., there being still no wind, Tom,
+in despair of ever reaching our destination under sail alone, again
+ordered steam to be raised. Two hours later a nice sailing breeze
+sprang up; but we had been so often disappointed that we determined to
+continue steaming. Just before sunset we saw the island of Mocha in
+the distance. It is said to have been inhabited at one time by herds
+of wild horses and hogs, but I think they have now become extinct.
+
+One of our principal amusements during the calm weather has been to
+fish for cape-pigeons, cape-hens, gulls, and albatrosses, with a hook
+and line. We have caught a good many in this way, and several
+entangled themselves in the threads left floating for the purpose over
+the stern. The cape-pigeons were so tame that they came almost on
+board, and numbers of them were caught in butterfly-nets. Their
+plumage is not unlike grebe, and I mean to have some muffs and
+trimmings for the children made out of it. Allen, the coxswain of the
+gig, skins them very well, having had some lessons from Ward before we
+left England. I want very much to catch an albatross, in order to have
+it skinned, and to make tobacco-pouches of its feet and pipe-stems of
+the wing-bones, for presents.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+CHILI.
+
+    _Sunbeam of summer, oh what is like thee,_
+    _Hope of the wilderness, joy of the sea._
+
+
+_Wednesday, October 18th_.--At 3.30 a.m. we were close to the land
+lying south of the Bay of Lota; at 4 a.m. the engines were stopped on
+account of the mist; and at 6 a.m. we began to go slowly ahead again,
+though it was still not very easy to make out the distance and bearing
+of the coast. The passage into the bay, between the island of Santa
+Maria and Lavapié Point, is narrow and difficult, and abounds with
+sunken rocks and other hidden dangers, not yet fully surveyed. Tom
+said it was the most arduous piece of navigation he ever undertook on
+a misty morning; but happily he accomplished it successfully. Just as
+he entered the sun broke through the mist, displaying a beautiful bay,
+surrounded on three sides by well-wooded hills, and sheltered from all
+winds except the north. One corner is completely occupied by the huge
+establishment belonging to Madame Cousiño, consisting of coal-mines,
+enormous smelting-works, and extensive potteries. The hill just at the
+back is completely bare of vegetation, which has all been poisoned by
+the sulphurous vapours from the furnaces. This spot, from its
+contiguity to the works, has been selected as the site of a village
+for the accommodation of the numerous labourers and their families. It
+is therefore to be hoped that sulphur fumes are not as injurious to
+animal as they evidently are to vegetable life. As we drew nearer to
+the shore we could distinguish Madame Cousiño's house, in the midst of
+a park on the summit of a hill, and surrounded on all sides by
+beautiful gardens. Every prominent point had a little summer-house
+perched upon it, and some of the trees had circular seats built round
+their trunks half-way up, approached by spiral staircases, and
+thatched like wigwams. The general aspect of the coast, which is a
+combination of rich red earth, granite cliffs, and trees to the
+water's edge, is very like that of Cornwall and Devonshire.
+
+We had scarcely dropped our anchor before the captain of the port came
+on board, and told us we were too far from the shore to coal, which
+was our special object in coming here; so up went the anchor again,
+and we steamed a few hundred yards further in, and then let go close
+to the shore, in deep water. Captain Möller waited to go ashore with
+us, introduced our steward to the butcher and postmaster of the place,
+and then accompanied us to Madame Cousiño's gardens.
+
+It was a steep climb up the hill, but we were well rewarded for our
+labour. Tended by over a hundred men, whose efforts are directed by
+highly paid and thoroughly experienced Scotch gardeners, these grounds
+contain a collection of plants from all the four quarters of the
+globe, and from New Zealand, Polynesia, and Australia. Amid them were
+scattered all kinds of fantastic grottoes, fountains, statues, and
+ferneries; flights of steps, leading downwards to the beach, and
+upwards to sylvan nooks; arcades, arched over with bamboos, and
+containing trellis-work from Derbyshire, and Minton tiles from
+Staffordshire; seats of all sorts and shapes, _under_ trees, _in_
+trees, and _over_ trees; besides summer-houses and pagodas, at every
+corner where there was a pretty view over land or sea.
+
+One of the heads of the establishment, a great friend of Madame
+Cousiño's, was unfortunately very ill, and as she was nursing him, she
+could not come out to see us; but she kindly gave orders to her
+gardener to send some cut flowers and some ferns on board the yacht,
+to decorate the saloon; and as she was unable to invite us to luncheon
+at the big house, she sent some champagne and refreshments down to the
+Casa de la Administracion, where we were most hospitably entertained.
+She has had the latter place comfortably fitted up for the use of the
+principal employés on the works, and has provided it with a
+billiard-table, a very fair library, and several spare bed-rooms for
+the accommodation of visitors.
+
+After luncheon we went to see the copper-smelting works, which were
+very interesting. The manager walked through with us, and explained
+the processes very clearly. He could tell at once, on taking up a
+piece of rough ore, fresh from the mine, what percentage of copper or
+iron it contained, the amount varying from ten to seventy-five per
+cent, of the gross weight. The furnaces are kept burning night and
+day, and are worked by three gangs of men; and the quantity of copper
+produced annually is enormous. In fact, three parts of the copper used
+in Europe comes from here. The ore is brought from various parts of
+Chili and Peru, generally in Madame Cousiño's ships; and coal is found
+in such abundance, and so near the surface, that the operation of
+smelting is a profitable one. Our afternoon, spent amid smoke, and
+heat, and dirt, and half-naked workmen, manipulating with dexterous
+skill the glowing streams of molten ore, was a great contrast to our
+morning ramble.
+
+Having seen the works, and received a curious and interesting
+collection of copper ore, as a remembrance of our visit, we started in
+a little car, lined with crimson cloth, and drawn by a locomotive, to
+visit the various coal-mines. First we went through the park, and then
+along a valley near the sea, full of wild flowers and ferns, and trees
+festooned with 'copigue,' the Chilian name for a creeper which is a
+speciality of this country, and which imparts a character of its own
+to the landscape during the month of May, when its wreaths of
+scarlet, cherry, or pink flowers are in full bloom. We went to the
+mouths of three coal-pits, and looked down into their grimy depths,
+but did not descend, as it would have occupied too much time. They are
+mostly about 1,000 yards in depth, and extend for some distance under
+the sea.
+
+We next visited a point of land whence we could see an island which
+closely resembles St. Michael's Mount. It is quite uninhabited, except
+by a few wild goats and rabbits. The sea-shore is lined with trees to
+the water's edge, and there are many bold rocks and fine white sandy
+caves in different parts of it. Some boats were drawn up high and dry
+on the beach, along which several picturesque-looking groups of
+shell-fish collectors were scattered. The mussels that are found here
+are enormous--from five to eight inches in length--and they, together
+with cockles and limpets, form a staple article of food.
+
+A steam-launch had been sent to meet us, but it could not get near
+enough to the shore for us to embark. A rickety, leaky small boat,
+half full of water, was therefore, after some delay, procured, and in
+this we were sculled out, two by two, till the whole party were safely
+on board. Outside there was quite a swell, and a north wind and rain
+are prophesied for to-morrow. Mr. Mackay returned with us to the
+yacht, and stayed to dinner. Before he left, the prognostications of
+bad weather were to some extent justified; for the wind changed, and
+rain, the first we have felt for some time, began to fall.
+
+_Thursday, October 19th_.--We have been persuaded by our friends here
+to try and see a little more of the interior of Chili than we should
+do if we were to carry out our original intention of going on to
+Valparaiso in the yacht, and then merely making an excursion to
+Santiago from that place. We have therefore arranged to proceed at
+once overland to Santiago, by a route which will enable us to see
+something of the Cordillera of the Andes, to have a peep at the
+Araucanian Indians on the frontier, and to visit the baths of
+Cauquenes. Tom, however, does not like to leave the yacht, and has
+decided to take her up to Valparaiso, and then come on to Santiago and
+meet us, in about five or six days' time. The anchor was accordingly
+hove short, and the mizen hoisted, when we landed this morning, in a
+drenching rain.
+
+A coach runs daily from Lota to Concepcion, the first stage of our
+journey, but a special vehicle was engaged for our accommodation, and
+a curious affair it was to look at. It seemed to be simply a huge
+wooden box, suspended, by means of thick leather straps, from C
+springs, without windows or doors, but provided with two long, narrow
+openings, through which you squeezed yourself in or out, and which
+could be closed at pleasure by roll-up leather blinds. Inside, it was
+roomy, well-padded, and comfortable.
+
+The rain had made the road terribly greasy, and several times the
+carriage slewed half-way round and slid four or five feet sideways
+down the hill, causing us to hold on, in expectation of a spill. At
+last we reached the bottom in safety, and, crossing a small river,
+emerged upon the sea-shore at Playa Negra, or Black Beach, along which
+we drove for some distance through the deep, loose sand, the horses
+being up to their fetlocks in water most of the time. Then we forded
+another little river, and, leaving the beach, proceeded up a steep
+road, not more than three yards wide, with a ditch on one side and a
+steep precipice on the other, to the little village of Coronel,
+overlooking the bay of the same name. While the horses were being
+changed, we walked down to the little wooden pier, on the sea-shore,
+and saw the 'Sunbeam' just coming out of Lota Bay.
+
+Drawn up by the side of the pier was a picturesque-looking
+market-boat, full of many sorts of vegetables, and little piles of
+sea-eggs, with their spines removed, and neatly tied up with rushes in
+parcels of three. The people seemed to enjoy them raw, in which state
+they are considered to be most nutritious; and when roasted in their
+shells, or made into omelettes, they are a favourite article of food
+with all classes. Coronel is a great coaling station, and the bay,
+which is surrounded by tall chimneys, shafts, and piers, connected
+with the mines, was full of steamers and colliers.
+
+Our road now ran for some time through undulating pasture-land, in
+which were many large trees, the scene resembling a vast park. Masses
+of scarlet verbena, yellow calceolaria, and white heath, grew on all
+sides, while the numerous myrtle, mimosa, and other bushes, were
+entwined with orange-coloured nasturtiums, and a little scarlet
+tropæolum, with a blue edge, whose name I forget. Beneath the trees
+the ground was thickly carpeted with adiantum fern. The road over
+which we travelled was of the worst description, and our luncheon was
+eaten with no small difficulty, but with a considerable amount of
+merriment. Once, when we jolted into an unusually big hole, the whole
+of our provisions, basket and all, made a sudden plunge towards one
+side of the coach, and very nearly escaped us altogether.
+
+Half-way between Coronel and Concepcion, we met the return
+stage-coach, crowded with passengers, and looking as if it had just
+come out of the South Kensington Museum or Madame Tussaud's, or like
+the pictures of a coach of Queen Elizabeth's time. It was a long low
+vehicle, with unglazed windows all round it, painted bright scarlet
+decorated with brilliant devices on every panel, and suspended, like
+our own, by means of innumerable leather straps, from huge C springs.
+The seats on either side held three passengers, and there was a stool
+in the middle, like the one in the Lord Mayor's coach, on which four
+people sat, back to bask.
+
+Soon after we drew up to rest the horses at a little posada, kept by
+two Germans, called 'Half-way House,' and seven miles more brought us
+to a rich and well-cultivated farm belonging to Mr. Hermann, where we
+stopped to change horses.
+
+It was six o'clock in the evening when we reached the Bio-Bio, a wide
+shallow river, at the entrance of the town of Concepcion; it had to be
+crossed in a ferry-boat, carriage and all, and as it was after hours,
+we had some difficulty in finding any one to take us over. At last, in
+consideration of a little extra pay, six men consented to undertake
+the job, and having set a square-sail, to keep us from being carried
+down the river by the current, they punted us over with long poles.
+Sometimes there was nine feet of water beneath us, but oftener not
+more than four or five. The boat could not get close to the opposite
+shore, and it was a great business to get the carriage out and the
+horses harnessed, in some eighteen inches of water. First the carriage
+stuck in the sand, and then the horses refused to move, but after a
+great deal of splashing, and an immense display of energy in the way
+of pulling, jerking, shrieking, shouting--and, I am afraid,
+swearing--we reached the bank, emerged from the water, struggled
+through some boggy ground, and were taken at full gallop through the
+streets of the town, until we reached the Hotel Comercio, where we
+found comfortable rooms and a nice little dinner awaiting us.
+
+This was all very well, as far as it went, but when we came to inquire
+about our onward route we were disappointed to learn that the line to
+Angol was closed, owing to the breaking down of a bridge, and would
+remain so until next month, and that, with the exception of a
+contractor's train, which runs only once a week, there was nothing by
+which we could travel. 'To-morrow is Friday,' added Monsieur
+Letellier, 'and that is so near Monday, what can Madame do better than
+wait here till then?' By way of consolation, he informed us that there
+were no Indians now at Angol, as the Araucanian [6] Indians had
+recently all been driven further back from the frontier by the
+Chilenos, but that, if we were still bent on trying to get there, we
+could go by boat as far as Nacimiento, where we might, with some
+difficulty, procure a carriage. The river just now, however, is so
+low, that the boat frequently gets aground, and remains for two or
+three days; therefore, taking everything into consideration, we have
+decided to abandon this part of our programme, for otherwise we shall
+not reach Santiago in time. In any case, the journey will be a much
+longer one than we expected.
+
+[Footnote 6: I have lately received a letter from a friend in Paris,
+who says: 'Strange to tell, it is only a few days ago that poor Orélie
+Antoine I., ex-King of Araucania, died at Bordeaux, in a hospital. He
+reigned for some years, and then made war upon Chili, which gave him a
+warm reception; even captured his Majesty and sent him back to his
+native land. I met him here a few years ago, surrounded by a small
+court, which treated him with great deference. I found him a
+dignified, intelligent sovereign. He attempted to return to his
+kingdom, but was captured on the high seas by a Brazilian cruiser, and
+sent back to France to die a miserable death.]
+
+_Friday, October 20th_.--We went out for a short stroll round the
+Plaza before breakfast, which meal was scarcely over when Mr. Mackay
+arrived in a carriage, and took us off to see what there was to see in
+the town. The Plaza was full of bright-looking flower-beds, in which
+were superb roses, and many English flowers, shaded by oranges,
+pomegranates, and deutzias. Each plot belongs to one of the principal
+families in the town, and great emulation is displayed as to whose
+little garden shall be in the best order and contain the finest
+collection of plants and flowers.
+
+Concepcion has suffered, and still suffers, much from earthquakes. The
+existing town is only thirty-five years old. The houses are all one
+story high only, and the streets, or rather roads, between them are
+wide, in order to afford the inhabitants a chance of escape, should
+their dwellings be thrown down by a sudden shock. In summer everybody
+rushes out into the street, no matter what hour of the day or night it
+may be, as soon as the first symptoms of an earthquake are felt; but
+during the winter, when the shocks are never so severe, the alarm
+caused is not so great. The old town was about two miles distant from
+the present site, near a place now called Penco, but after being
+demolished in the ordinary way, an immense wave rolled up and
+completely destroyed all traces of its existence.
+
+We drove out to Puchacai, Mr. Mackay's hacienda, a pretty little
+thatched cottage, surrounded by a verandah, in the midst of a garden,
+where laburnums and lilacs bloom side by side with orange-trees and
+pomegranates. Round the garden are groves of shady English oaks (the
+first we have seen since leaving home) and Norfolk Island pines, the
+effect of the whole scene being strangely suggestive of the idea that
+a charming little bit of English rural scenery has in some mysterious
+manner been transported to this out-of-the-way spot in Chili. The
+interior of the house, which is simply but tastefully furnished, and
+at the time of our visit was full of fresh flowers, arranged with an
+artistic eye to colour, bears the same indescribable _homelike_ air.
+We were kindly received and regaled with luncheon, including, amongst
+other good things, fried _pejerey_ (king of fish), deservedly so
+called.
+
+In the afternoon we strolled about the garden, and looked at the farm
+and stable, and were shown the probable winner of one of the prizes at
+the forthcoming race-meeting. In the cottages on the estate some
+specimens of _miñaque_ lace were offered to us--a lace made by most of
+the peasants in this part of the country. It varies considerably in
+quality, from the coarse kind, used for covering furniture, to the
+finest description, used for personal adornment It is very cheap,
+wears for ever, and strongly resembles the _torchon_ lace, now so
+fashionable in Paris and London for trimming petticoats and children's
+frocks. The women also spin, dye, and weave the wool from the fleece
+of their own sheep into the bright-coloured ponchos universally worn,
+winter and summer, by the men in this country. These ponchos are not
+made of nearly such good material as those used in the Argentine
+Republic, but they are considerably gayer and more picturesque in
+appearance.
+
+After dinner, there was nothing to do except to stroll about the town
+and buy photographs. They are extremely good in Chili--both views and
+portraits--but proportionately dear, the price being double what would
+be charged in London or Paris for the same thing.
+
+[Illustration: Waiting for the Train, Chili.]
+
+_Saturday, October 21st_.--Having wished good-bye to Mr. Mackay, and
+taken our seats in the train for Linares, we were now fairly launched
+on our own resources in a strange country, I being the only one of the
+party who could speak even a little Spanish. At San Romde we stopped
+half an hour to allow the train from Chilian to pass. Most of the
+passengers took the opportunity of breakfasting, but as we were not
+hungry we occupied the time in having a chat with the engine-driver, a
+very intelligent Canadian. He told us that, as it happened, we might
+have gone to Angol to-day after all, as a special car and engine were
+going there to take a doctor to see a patient, returning early
+to-morrow morning.
+
+The railroad runs alongside the Bio-Bio all the way to San Romde. On
+either bank are low wooded hills, on whose sides vines are cultivated
+in considerable quantities. The wild flowers grow luxuriantly
+everywhere: calceolarias, especially, in huge bushes of golden bloom,
+two or three feet high. At San Romde we left the river, and travelled
+through a pretty and well-cultivated country to Chilian, which derives
+its name from an Indian word, signifying 'saddle of the sun,' and is
+so called from the fact that the sun shines upon it through a
+saddle-shaped pass in the chain of the Andes.
+
+Like Concepcion, the existing town has been recently built at a
+distance of about a mile from the remains of the old place of the same
+name, which was overthrown by an earthquake about thirty years ago.
+The destruction was, however, not so complete as in the case of
+Concepcion, and some few of the better-conditioned houses are still
+inhabited by very poor people, though the walls have great cracks in
+them from top to bottom, and they are otherwise in a deplorable state.
+A large cattle and horse market is held at Chilian every Saturday, and
+it is said that, on these occasions, 100,000 dollars frequently change
+hands in the course of the morning, in the open market-place. All the
+business of the day was over by the time we got there, and there was
+nothing to be seen but a few stray beasts and quaint bullock-carts,
+and some peasants selling refreshments, _miñaque_ lace, and other
+trifles. In several of the old-fashioned shops on the Plaza there were
+curious-looking stirrups, bits, spurs, and other horse-gear, all made
+of solid silver, roughly worked by the Indians themselves.
+
+Having had our baths, we returned to the hotel, where we found dinner
+laid out in my bed-room, which happened to be the largest, for our
+host did not approve of our dining at the table-d'hôte, as we should
+have preferred to do. He gave us an excellent dinner, with good wine,
+and attended to us most assiduously himself.
+
+While the gentlemen were smoking, I went to see a poor engine-driver
+who had met with a bad accident, and who was lying at this hotel. He
+is a fine healthy-looking Englishman, and he told me that, until this
+misfortune, he had never known a day's illness in his life. It seems
+that, at four o'clock in the afternoon of this day week, he was sent
+off with a special engine to convey an important message. Something
+going wrong during the journey, he slackened speed, and, in stepping
+off the engine to see what was the matter, his foot slipped, and the
+wheel of the tender went over it. He had no one with him who could
+manage the engine alone, so he was obliged to get up again, and
+endeavour to struggle on to Talca; but after going a few miles
+further, the engine suddenly ran off the track, at a part of the
+unfinished line that had not yet been sufficiently ballasted. They
+could not get it on again unaided, and one of the men had to start off
+and walk many miles before he could procure assistance. Altogether,
+poor Clarke underwent forty-two hours of intense agony from the time
+of the accident until he received any medical attention. In spite of
+this he is now doing well; and though the foot, which is in a bath of
+carbolic acid and water, looks very bad, he is in great spirits,
+because the three local doctors, in consultation, have decided that
+amputation will not be necessary. He spoke in the highest terms of the
+kindness of our French host and his Spanish wife, the latter of whom,
+he says, has nursed him like a mother. He certainly has the one large
+room in the house, and when I saw him his bed was comfortably made and
+arranged, flowers and fruit were on a table by his side, and
+everything looked as neat and snug as possible. It was a treat to him
+to see some one fresh from the old country, and to hear all the news,
+and our voyage appeared to interest him greatly. While I was with him
+one of his friends came in, who remembered me quite well, and who knew
+one or two people with whom we are acquainted, including the manager
+of Messrs. Bowdler and Chaffers' yard, where the 'Sunbeam' was built.
+
+[Illustration: A Fellow Passenger]
+
+_Sunday, October 22nd_.--Though it was Sunday, we had no choice but to
+travel on, or we should not have been able to start until Tuesday. We
+were therefore up at five o'clock, and at the station before seven.
+From San Carlos, where we arrived at 8.15 a.m., we started for
+Linares, which was reached a couple of hours later. It is a much
+smaller town than Chilian, but is built on exactly the same
+plan--Plaza, cathedral, and all. To-day the streets were crowded with
+men on horseback, who had brought their wives in, seated
+pillion-fashion on the crupper behind them, to attend mass.
+
+Our road lay through a rich country, intersected by small rivers; with
+the distant snowy chain of the Andes as a background, and through
+thickly planted groves of poplars, growing in long shady avenues,
+fragrant with perfume from the magnificent roses which blossomed
+beneath their shade. In the course of our four hours' drive, we
+crossed a great many streams, in some of which the water was deep
+enough to come in at the bottom of the carriage, and cause us to tuck
+ourselves up on the seats; there was always a little pleasing
+excitement and doubt, as we approached one of these rivulets, as to
+whether we were to be inundated or not. We met a good many people
+riding and walking about in their holiday clothes, and at all the
+cabarets groups of talkers, drinkers, and players were assembled.
+
+The cottages we have seen by the roadside have been picturesque but
+wretched-looking edifices, generally composed of the branches of trees
+stuck in the ground, plastered with mud and thatched with reeds. Two
+outhouses, or arbours, consisting of a few posts and sticks, fastened
+together and overgrown with roses and other flowers, serve
+respectively as a cool sitting-room and a kitchen, the oven being
+invariably built on the ground outside the latter, for the sake of
+coolness. The women, when young, are singularly good-looking, with
+dark complexions, bright eyes, and luxuriant tresses, which they wear
+in two plaits, hanging down their backs far below the waist. The men
+are also, as a rule, fine-looking. In fact, the land is good, and
+everybody and everything looks prosperous. The beasts are up to their
+knees in rich pasture, are fat and sleek, and lie down to chew the cud
+of contentment, instead of searching anxiously for a scanty
+sustenance. The horses are well fed, and their coats are fine and
+glossy, and the sheep, pigs, and other animals are in equally good
+condition. It is therefore a cheery country to travel through, and at
+this spring-time of the year one sees it in its highest perfection.
+
+Before reaching Talca we had to cross the Maule, a wide, deep river,
+with a swift current. The carriage was first put on board a large
+flat-bottomed boat, into which the horses then jumped, one by one, the
+last to embark tumbling down and rolling among the legs of the others.
+With a large oar the boat was steered across the stream, down which it
+drifted about 200 yards into shallow water, where the boatmen jumped
+out and towed us to a convenient landing-place. Here we found several
+people waiting to be ferried over. A troop of mules having been driven
+into the water, which they seemed rather to enjoy, swam across safely,
+though they were carried some distance down the river.
+
+About five o'clock we arrived at Talca, and went straight to the Hotel
+Colon, kept by Gassaroni. Every Italian who starts an hotel in this
+part of the world calls it, as a matter of course, 'The Columbus
+Hotel;' for they are very anxious to claim the great navigator as a
+countryman, though the Spaniards dispute their right to do so, on the
+ground that Genoa, where he was really born, was at that time an
+independent State. While we were waiting for dinner we walked about
+the town, which so exactly resembles Concepcion and Chilian in the
+arrangement of its streets, buildings, and trees, that I doubt whether
+any one familiar with the three places could tell immediately which
+town he was in, if transported suddenly to the middle of the Plaza,
+though I believe Talca is rather the largest. It still retains its old
+Indian name, meaning 'thunder,' doubtless on account of the frequency
+and violence of the thunder-storms by which it is visited.
+
+_Monday, October 23rd_.--Soon after midnight I was aroused by a great
+noise. At first I thought I was dreaming, but a very brief reflection
+convinced me of the existence of an energetically played big-drum,
+somewhere in the immediate neighbourhood of my bed-room. I at once got
+up and, peeping through the window in the door, saw a military band of
+twenty-five performers, standing on the other side of the courtyard,
+blowing and hitting their hardest. It must be confessed that they
+played well, and that their selection of music was good, but it was,
+nevertheless, rather annoying, after a long and fatiguing day, and
+with the prospect of an early start, to be kept awake until half-past
+three in the morning, while they serenaded and toasted the _prima
+donna_, and each of the other members of the theatrical company who
+are staying here. The noise was, of course, increased by the
+reverberation from the walls of the courtyard, and, finding it
+impossible to sleep, I abandoned the attempt, and took to writing
+instead. At last the welcome notes of the Chilian national air gave me
+hope that the entertainment was over for the night--or rather
+morning--and soon afterwards all was once more quiet.
+
+We left Talca by the 7.30 train, Mr. Budge, who had business at
+Curico, accompanying us. All the engines and rolling stock this side
+of Santiago are of American make and pattern. Mr. Budge had secured
+one of the long cars, with a passage down the centre, and a saloon at
+each end, for us, so we were very comfortable, and he told us a great
+deal about the country as we went along. Like all Chilenos, he is
+very patriotic, and is especially proud of the financial stability of
+his country. He often said,' If English people would only invest their
+money here, instead of in Peru or the Argentine Republic, they would
+get eight per cent, on good security.' We heard the same thing from
+many other sources; and it certainly does seem that this country is
+the most settled, and the least liable to be disturbed by revolutions,
+of any in South America. At Curico[7] we breakfasted at a little
+restaurant on Chilian dishes and the wine of the country. The latter
+is excellent and of various kinds, but it is so cheap that none of the
+innkeepers can be persuaded to supply it to travellers, whose only
+chance of tasting it, therefore, is at some small inn.
+
+[Footnote 7: An Indian name, signifying 'black waters,' having
+reference to the mineral springs in the neighbouring mountains.]
+
+Mr. Budge left us at Pelequen, the next station to San Fernando,
+having put us in charge of the conductor, who promised to see after us
+at Cauquenes, but who wofully betrayed his trust. There was no regular
+station at the latter place, but as the train stopped, and we saw
+'Bains de Cauquenes' on an hotel close by, we jumped out just in time
+to see it go on again. Luckily the other passengers were kind enough
+to interest themselves on our behalf, and shrieked and hallooed to
+such good purpose that the engine was once more brought to a
+standstill, and our luggage was put out. Half-a-dozen little boys
+carried it to the inn, where I had to explain to the _patron_, in my
+best Spanish, that we wanted a carriage to go to the baths, seven
+leagues off. In a wonderfully short space of time, four good horses
+were harnessed to a queer sort of vehicle, which held four inside and
+one out, besides the driver, and which had to be entered by means of a
+ladder. Having all packed in, and paid our fare beforehand, we were
+rattled off at a merry pace towards the Andes. The road went up and
+down and round about, and crossed many rivers, but was fairly good
+throughout. We changed once at a large hacienda, where a man went into
+a large yard, containing about sixty horses, and dexterously lassoed
+the particular four required for our use. Several horsemen were
+waiting about, and I looked at their saddles, which were made of a
+dozen or more sheepskins, laid one on the top of the other, forming a
+soft seat to ride in by day and a comfortable bed to sleep on at
+night.
+
+[Illustration: Baths of Cauquenes]
+
+Early in the afternoon we saw some buildings in the distance, which we
+rightly guessed to be the baths, and soon afterwards we passed in at
+the entrance gate of the establishment, by the side of which was a
+rock with the word 'Welcome' painted upon its face. The whole distance
+from the station was twenty-three miles, which we had accomplished in
+a little over two hours. Driving between hedgerows of roses in full
+bloom, we were not long in reaching the door of the hotel, where we
+were received by the proprietor. He told us he was very full, but he
+managed to find us some small rooms, and then conducted us to the
+luxuriously fitted bathing establishment. After this came the
+table-d'hôte, to which about seventy sat down, though many of the
+visitors were dining in their own rooms. In the evening we walked
+about the garden and chatted with several people, who all seemed to
+have heard of us and our voyage, and to be anxious to know what we
+thought of the Straits. We saw some English papers too, which was a
+great treat, though there did not seem to be much news in them.
+
+_Tuesday, October 24th_.--This is a wonderful place, built entirely of
+wood. The centre part is a square, seventy yards in extent, surrounded
+by a single row of one-storied rooms, with doors opening into the
+courtyard, and windows looking over the river or up into the
+mountains. In the middle of the square are a pavilion containing two
+billiard-tables, a boot-blacking arbour, covered with white and yellow
+jessamine and scarlet and cream-coloured honeysuckle, plenty of
+flower-beds, full of roses and orange-trees, and a monkey on a pole,
+who must, poor creature, have a sorry life of it, as it is his
+business to afford amusement to all the visitors to the baths. He is
+very good-tempered, does several tricks, and is tormented 'from early
+dawn to dewy eve.' I remonstrated with our host on his behalf; but he
+merely shrugged his shoulders and said, 'Mais il faut que le monde se
+divertisse, Madame.' From the centre square, marble steps lead to a
+large hall, with marble baths on either side, for ladies and gentlemen
+respectively. A few steps further bring one to a delightful
+swimming-bath, about forty feet square, filled with tepid water. The
+water, as it springs from the rock, is boiling hot, and contains, I
+believe, a good deal of magnesia and other salts, beneficial in cases
+of rheumatism and gout; but the high temperature of the water makes
+the air very muggy, and we all found the place relaxing, though
+perhaps it was because we indulged too freely in the baths, which are
+a great temptation.
+
+[Illustration: Up the Valley towards the Andes.]
+
+In the afternoon we went for a ride, to see a celebrated view of the
+Andes. Unfortunately it was rather misty, but we could see enough to
+enable us to imagine the rest. Some condors were soaring round the
+rocky peaks, and the landscape, though well clothed with vegetation,
+had a weird, dreary character of its own, partly due to the quantity
+of large cacti that grew in every nook and corner, singly, or in
+groups of ten or twelve, to the height of twenty or thirty feet.
+Though they say it hardly ever rains in Chili, a heavy shower fell
+this afternoon, and our landlord thoughtfully sent a boy on horseback
+after us with umbrellas.
+
+_Wednesday, October 25th_.--The bath was so delightful this morning,
+that we felt quite sorry it was to be our last. One could very well
+spend a week or two here, and find plenty to do in the way of
+excursions into the valleys of the Andes, which look most inviting in
+the distance.
+
+At half-past ten, we set out on our return journey to the railway,
+changing horses at the same place where we had stopped at coming up,
+and which we reached half an hour before the train was due; when it
+arrived we were allowed to get in with our belongings in rather a less
+hurried fashion than we had alighted. Luncheon was procured at
+Rancagua, and we finally reached Santiago at about 4.50 p.m. No sooner
+had we got fairly into the station than the car was invaded by a crowd
+of Porters touting for employment. They are all dressed in white, and
+wear red caps, on which is a brass number, by means of which they are
+easily recognised. The landlord from the Hotel Ingles, M. Tellier, met
+us, and we at once drove off, leaving our luggage to follow, in charge
+of one of the red-capped gentlemen. The drive from the station was
+along the Alameda, on either side of which were many fine houses; but
+the road was ill-paved and shaky as usual.
+
+[Illustration: Cacti of the Cordillera]
+
+The Grand Hotel, which used to be considered the best in South
+America, is now shut up, the company who owned it having recently
+failed; so all the smaller hotels, none of which are very good, are
+crowded to overflowing. The Hotel Ingles is considered the best,
+though I cannot say much in its favour. The rooms are good, but the
+situation is noisy, being at the corner of two streets; the servants
+are attentive, but the cuisine and arrangements are bad. Independently
+of all this, we have great reason to complain of the conduct of the
+landlord, for my first question, as soon as he had introduced himself,
+was, of course, 'Have Mr. and Miss Brassey arrived?' 'Yes, Madame, and
+went away this morning.' 'What! and left no letter?' 'No; but Monsieur
+returns to-morrow.' Imagine my surprise and disappointment! But there
+was nothing to be done but to go to the hotel and wait patiently. We
+afterwards found that _Tom had left a long letter, and that he had
+never said a word about returning_. The wretched man would not give me
+the letter, because he thought he could detain us, and he never sent
+the telegram I handed to him to forward to Tom at once, asking for an
+answer.
+
+[Illustration: Huasso Huts.]
+
+Our luggage arrived just in time to enable us to dress for the second
+table-d'hôte at six o'clock, after which we went for a walk through
+some arcades, paved with marble, and full of fine shops, past the
+Grand Hotel, which was situated at the end of the Alameda, and is
+built over an arcade of shops. It is a handsome building, and must
+command a fine view. The cathedral and the archbishop's palace, large
+but rather dull-looking brick buildings, are close by. The surrounding
+gardens looked pretty by gaslight, and the scent of roses pervaded the
+evening air.
+
+[Illustration: Huasso of Chili]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+SANTIAGO AND VALPARAISO.
+
+    _Gems of the changing autumn, how beautiful you are,_
+    _Shining from your glassy stems, like many a golden star._
+
+
+_Thursday, October 26th_.--Our kind hostess at Lota had given us a
+letter of introduction to her manager at Santiago, who called this
+morning to inquire what arrangements he could make which would be most
+agreeable to us during our stay. She had also given orders that her
+carriages and horses should be placed at our disposal, and at about
+ten o'clock we all started in an open break, drawn by a pair of
+good-looking half-bred brown horses, bigger than any we had seen
+before in this country.
+
+[Illustration: Morning Mass at Santiago]
+
+We went first to the Compañía, a large open square, planted with
+flowers, the site of the old Jesuit Church, which was burnt down on
+December 8th, 1863. Well known as the story is, I may here recall the
+tragic details, standing on the very spot where they took place. It
+was the Feast of the Virgin, and the church was densely crowded with a
+congregation composed almost entirely of women, principally young,
+many of whom were servant-girls. Some of the draperies used in the
+decoration of the building caught fire, the flames spread rapidly,
+destroying in their course the cords by which the numerous paraffin
+and oil lamps were suspended across the nave and aisles, and
+precipitating their burning contents upon the people beneath. The
+great doors opened inwards; the crowd, trying to press out, closed
+them, and kept them hermetically sealed. The priests, anxious to save
+the church properties and sacred relics, shut the large iron gates
+across the chancel and kept them fastened, notwithstanding the
+agonising shrieks of the unhappy victims, many of whom might otherwise
+have escaped. Their conduct on this terrible occasion created at the
+time a feeling of bitter and universal indignation, and caused a shock
+to the popularity and authority of the priesthood in this country,
+from which it will take them a long time to recover.
+
+Mr. Long told us that, between seven and eight o'clock on the evening
+of the catastrophe, he was walking with some friends on the Alameda,
+when he saw smoke rising in dense volumes from the quarter of the city
+where the house in which he resided was situated. He and his friends
+ran quickly in the direction of the fire, giving the alarm as they
+went, and on reaching the church they found the doors closely shut,
+while fearful screams were issuing from the interior, and smoke and
+flames pouring from the windows. They got a party of men together
+accustomed to the use of the lasso--no difficult task here--and with
+them climbed from the neighbouring houses to the top of the church.
+Making a hole in the roof, they then dropped their lassoes over some
+of the women beneath, and so dragged them out of the building; but the
+number thus saved was necessarily very small, and it happened too
+often that many of the poor creatures below, in their eagerness to
+escape, hung on to the legs or body of the one they saw lassoed, and
+by their weight literally dragged her to pieces. Sometimes even a
+lasso broke, and those clinging to it, when almost within reach of
+safety, were again precipitated into the burning mass below. Any one
+who has seen a raw hide lasso, capable of withstanding the sudden rush
+of the fiercest bull ever captured, will be able to realise the
+immense strain which would be required to cause one to give way. The
+next morning at daybreak, the interior of the church presented a
+terrible spectacle. Mr. Long described it as being full of women,
+standing up, tightly wedged together, their hands stretched out as if
+in an attitude of supplication, their faces and the upper part of
+their bodies charred beyond recognition, the lower part, from the
+waist downwards, completely untouched.
+
+Their remains were buried in one large grave, in the cemetery of the
+Recoleta, and the spot is now marked by a square piece of ground, full
+of bright flowers, enclosed by iron railings, almost hidden by the
+creepers that entwine them, and shaded by willows, orange-trees,
+cypresses, and pomegranates. In the centre is a large cross, and on
+either side of the iron railings there is a marble tablet with the
+simple but touching inscription, in Spanish--
+
+'Incendio de la Iglesia
+  de la Compañía,
+8 de Diciembre, 1863.
+Restos de las Víctimas;
+  2000, mas o ménos.'
+
+(Burning of the Church of the Compañía, December 8th, 1863
+Remains of the victims. 2,000, more or less.)
+
+Almost every household in Santiago had lost one of its members. One
+lovely girl of seventeen was pulled out through the roof and taken to
+Madame Cousiño's residence, where she lay for nearly a fortnight. She
+suffered the greatest agonies, but was sensible to the last, and gave
+a graphic account of the whole harrowing scene. The site of the
+church, hallowed by such sad memories, has never been built upon, but
+is preserved as an open space, surrounded by a strip of garden, and
+having in its centre a finely carved monument.
+
+The Houses of Congress were the next thing we went to see, after which
+we drove through a great part of the city and over a handsome bridge
+with statues and small niches on either side. Beneath it, however,
+there is little more than a dry torrent bed; and it is said that an
+American, when visiting this spot with a Santiago friend, who was
+showing him round, remarked, 'I guess you ought either to buy a river
+or sell this here bridge.' We also went to the Church of La Recoleta.
+From the church we went to the cemetery of the same name, which is
+prettily laid out, and well stocked with flowers and trees.
+
+It being now past eleven o'clock, we began to think about breakfast,
+and accordingly returned to the hotel, where I was disappointed to
+find no news from Tom and no answer to the telegram I sent last night.
+
+At one o'clock we started again, and had a pleasant but rather dusty
+drive of eight miles to Macul, the stud-farm established by the late
+Don Luis Cousiño.
+
+We had some luncheon at Mr. Canning's house, in a room that had
+recently been split from top to bottom by an earthquake, and
+afterwards sat in the verandah to see the horses and some of the
+cattle, which were brought round for our inspection. Amongst them were
+Fanfaron, Fandango, and other beautiful thoroughbreds, three fine
+Cleveland coach-horses, Suffolk cart-horses and percherons, and some
+of the young stock. We saw only a few of the beasts, as at this time
+they are away feeding on the hills, but I believe they are as good as
+the horses. Mr. Long had arranged for us all to ride round the farm,
+and I was mounted on a lovely chestnut mare, sixteen hands high,
+daughter of Fanfaron, and niece to Kettledrum. I should have liked to
+have bought her and sent her home, but she was not for sale, though
+her value was 400_l_. English horses here are as dear, in proportion,
+as native horses are cheap. The latter may be bought for from twenty
+to sixty dollars apiece; and some of them make capital little hacks.
+
+We rode all over the farm, attended by half-a-dozen peones, who drove
+the young thoroughbred stock together, in the enormous fields, for us
+to see, and afterwards did the same thing with some of the cattle. We
+also went through the farm buildings, in one part of which we saw the
+operation of making lassoes. The best are composed of neatly plaited
+strips of cured hide, about a quarter of an inch wide, the commoner
+sort being made from an undressed cow's hide, with the hair on, cut
+from the centre in an ever-increasing circle, so that they are in one
+piece, many yards in length. In another part of the farm there were a
+few acres more of flower-gardens, orange-trees, and kitchen-gardens.
+
+[Illustration: What makes Horses go in Chili]
+
+Beautiful as the whole place is, it loses much in interest from its
+vastness. You never seem to know where you are, or when you have come
+to an end. I hear that Madame Cousiño talks of extending the park
+still further, right up into the mountains, which seems almost a pity,
+as it is already too big to be kept in really perfect order, even with
+a hundred and twenty men employed upon it. Everything is completely
+surrounded and overgrown with flowers. Even the fields are separated
+by hedges of sweet-smelling double pink roses, and these hedges are
+larger than many a 'bull-finch' in the old country.
+
+After a delightful gallop of about two hours, we returned to the
+farmhouse, where we found a fresh pair of horses waiting for us in the
+break, and drove back to Santiago by moonlight.
+
+It was eight o'clock when we reached the hotel, and as the
+table-d'hôte dinner only lasts from five till half-past seven, I
+asked for a private dinner in our own room or in the general
+dining-room, for our own party and two guests in addition. But the
+landlord said he was not at all sure about giving us dinner; he must
+see what there was in the kitchen first. We then declared we would go
+and dine at a cafe, and in less than half an hour managed to get an
+excellent little dinner at the Cafe Santiago, though even Mr. Long,
+who ordered it for us, could not induce them to give us native wine. I
+am bound to confess, however, that we punished ourselves at least as
+much as the landlord, for as we paid so much a day for board and
+lodging, he was of course bound to provide us with dinner, and we had
+thus to pay for our food twice over.
+
+_Friday, October 27th_.--Still no news from Tom. Mr. Long called at
+half-past eight, to take me to the market, and my first step was to
+send another telegram, this time taking care to see that it really was
+despatched.
+
+We then walked through the streets to the market-hall, a handsome iron
+building, commodiously arranged, which was sent out from England in
+pieces, and put together here. All round it are stalls, where you can
+get a capital breakfast, generally consisting of coffee, tender
+beef-steak, buttered toast, and boiled beans, for a small sum. One of
+our party, who had been at the market since half-past five, tried one,
+and fully confirmed the report we had heard as to their excellence and
+cleanliness. At the time of our visit all these refreshment stalls
+were crowded, and I felt rather tempted to join one of the hungry
+merry-looking groups myself. The market was well supplied with meat,
+fish, vegetables, fruit, and flowers of all kinds, green peas, French
+beans, and strawberries being specially abundant. There were
+quantities of queer-looking baskets to be seen, and some curious
+pottery, made by the nuns from a kind of cement. Outside the building
+there were men and women hanging about with ponchos, of their own
+manufacture, which they had brought in from the country, for sale. We
+bought some bright specimens as presents for the children, but it took
+some time to collect them, as each individual had only one to offer.
+They are the work of the women, in the intervals of household labour,
+and as soon as one is completed it is sold, in order that materials
+for a fresh one may be purchased. We also bought some of the carved
+wooden stirrups, made in the country, and used by all the natives.
+They are rather like a small coalscuttle in shape, and must be heavy
+and cumbersome.
+
+From the market we went to hear high mass at the cathedral. This is a
+fine building, though the interior seemed very dark. The high altar
+was illuminated by hundreds of candles, whose light shone on a crowd
+of kneeling women, all dressed in black, and with black veils over
+their heads, the contrast between their sombre appearance and the
+gilding and paintings on the walls--handsome at a distance, but tawdry
+on a closer examination--being very striking. The organ is of splendid
+tone and quality and reverberated grandly through the aisles, and the
+whole scene was not without a certain impressiveness. I had not
+thought of paying a visit to the cathedral when I went out this
+morning, and it was not until I saw every one staring at me that I
+remembered I had committed the terrible mistake of going to church in
+a hat, and without any veil; but we remained in a dark corner most of
+the time, and emerged into open daylight again before any of the
+authorities of the place had time to observe or remonstrate with me.
+My wearing a hat was, however, quite as much against all church rules
+as a similar proceeding on the part of a man would have been. The
+women of this city are almost always good-looking when young, and they
+glide gracefully about the streets in their long black clinging gowns
+and _mantos_, by which they are completely enveloped from head to
+foot.
+
+In the afternoon we went for a drive in the park, and to see Santa
+Lucia, of which, as the only hill in Santiago, the inhabitants of the
+city are very proud, and from thence drove to the Cousiño Park, an
+extensive piece of ground near the Alameda, laid out and arranged
+under the direction of the late Don Luis Cousiño, and presented by him
+to the city of Santiago.
+
+After a stroll round the park, Mr. Long took us to an emporium for
+Panama hats, which are made in Lima, Guayaquil, and other states of
+Chili, as well as in Panama, from a special kind of grass, split very
+fine, and worn by almost everybody on this coast. The best made cost
+340 dollars, or about sixty guineas, and fifty pounds is not at all an
+uncommon price to pay, though the inferior kind may be had for two
+pounds. Those ordinarily worn by the gentlemen here cost from twenty
+to thirty pounds each, but they are so light, pliable, and elastic
+that they will wear for ever, wash like a pocket-handkerchief, do not
+get burnt by the sun, and can be rolled up and sat upon--in fact,
+ill-treated in any way you like--without fear of their breaking,
+tearing, or getting out of shape. For the yacht, however, where so
+many hats are lost overboard, they would, I fear, prove a rather
+unprofitable investment.
+
+We now drove back to the hotel, past the Mint, a handsome building,
+guarded by soldiers, and with windows protected by iron gratings. On
+our return I found that one of the valuable ponchos, given to me in
+the Argentine Republic, had been taken from our room. The landlord
+declined to trouble himself about its recovery, as he said it was
+'most unlikely that any one would take a thing of no value to him
+here;' the real truth being that the guanaco ponchos are worth nearly
+double as much in Chili as they are on the other side of the Andes.
+
+After dinner we walked to the theatre, where we saw _La Sonnambula_
+well put on the stage, and well sung and acted by an Italian opera
+company. The _prima donna_, contralto, baritone, and bass were all
+good, but the scenery was occasionally somewhat deficient. The house,
+which is highly decorated--perhaps too much so for the ladies'
+dresses--looked well by night, though if it had been full the effect
+would have been still better. The box-tiers are not divided into
+pigeon-holes, as they are with us, and everybody can therefore see
+equally well. The Presidential box seemed commodious and handsome, and
+had the Chilian coat of arms in front of it, making it look very much
+like a Royal box.
+
+The walk back by moonlight was delightful. Some of our party
+afterwards went to the Union Club, where they met several English
+gentlemen, who were most kind and pressing in their invitations to
+them to stay a few days longer, and go up the mountains to see the
+views and to have some guanaco shooting. About twenty-four hours from
+here they say you can have your first shot, and a little further on
+you meet them in herds which may be counted by thousands. There are
+also wild horses and wild donkeys. Quaggas and huemuls used to be
+found, but are now extinct. The last named is a rare animal, exactly
+resembling a horse in every particular, except that its hoofs are
+cloven. It used only to be found in the mountains of Chili, and it is
+one of the supporters of the national coat of arms.
+
+_Saturday, October 28th_.--At 5 a.m. we were called, and soon
+afterwards parting gifts of flowers began to arrive, and even I was
+obliged to confess that four large clothes-baskets full of rosebuds
+were more than I quite knew what to do with. At seven Mr. Long came to
+know if he could help us in any way, and a little later Madame
+Cousiño's coachman appeared with the carriage, to take us to the
+station.
+
+We had a pleasant drive down the Alameda, the sun shining brilliantly
+in a bright blue sky, and the distant mountains for the first time
+being clearly visible. The station was crowded with vendors of
+pottery, curious things in buffalo horn, sweetmeats, &c. The rolling
+stock on this line is of English manufacture, and we were therefore
+put into the too familiar, close, stuffy, first-class carriage, and
+duly locked up for the journey down to Valparaiso. The line, running
+as it does through mountain gorges for a great portion of the way,
+must have been a difficult one to make.
+
+Just now the whole country wears a golden tint from the bloom of the
+espinosa, which seems to grow everywhere, and which is now in
+perfection. The branches of this shrub are so completely covered with
+little yellow balls of flowers, which come before the leaves, and
+which have no separate stalk, but grow along the shiny, horny
+branches, that they look as if they were made of gold. It is called
+the 'burning bush' here, and its wood is said to be the hardest in the
+country. The flowers are often plucked off and dried, in which state
+they are most fragrant and are used for scenting linen and for keeping
+away moths. The thorns, however, are a terrible nuisance to the
+shepherds and owners of cattle, catching their clothes and tearing
+them as they gallop swiftly across over the plains. If I bore you by
+saying too much about the flowers, forgive me. I want to make you all
+realise, if possible, what a lovely flowery land Chili is. The whole
+air is quite perfumed with roses, principally large double pink roses,
+something like the old-fashioned cabbage rose, though there are a good
+many of the monthly kind and a few white and deep scarlet ones. They
+formed hedgerows on either side of the road, and in many places
+climbed thirty or forty feet up the trees, and then threw down long
+brambles laden with bloom, almost producing the effect of a wall of
+pink. There were also plenty of wild flowers of other sorts, such as
+scarlet and white lilies, larkspurs, eschscholtzias, evening
+primroses, and many others whose names I do not know.
+
+At Llaillai we stopped for breakfast, procured at a small restaurant
+at the station. While waiting for the train for Santiago to come in,
+we had plenty of time to observe the half-Indian girls selling fruit,
+flowers, cakes, &c., and jabbering away in a sort of _patois_ Spanish,
+in recommendation of their wares. Some of them were really pretty,
+and all were picturesquely dressed in bright-coloured stuffs, their
+hair neatly done up and decorated with flowers, their faces clean and
+smiling. At 11.15 a.m. we reached Quillota, where the train was
+literally besieged by men, women, and children, offering bouquets for
+sale--two or three of which were thrust in at every carriage
+window--and baskets of strawberries, cherimoyas, nisperos, melons,
+oranges, sugar-cane, plantain, bananas, asparagus, green peas, French
+beans, eggs, chickens, and even fish--nice little pejereyes, fresh
+from the stream close by. It must evidently be the custom of the
+Chilenos to visit by rail these fertile districts, for the purpose of
+doing their marketing; for the occupants of the train soon absorbed
+the entire stock of the vendors, who were left with empty baskets.
+
+I never saw such a country as this is for eggs and chickens. A hen
+seems never to have a smaller brood than ten, and I have often counted
+from seventeen to twenty-one chickens with the mother, and, more than
+once, as many as twenty-four. However well you may have breakfasted or
+dined, the waiters always come at the end of the meal to ask, not
+_whether_ you will have any eggs, but _how_ you will have them--fried,
+boiled, poached, or in some sort of omelette. If you refuse
+altogether, the chances are that two very lightly boiled eggs will be
+placed by your side, with the suggestion that you should beat them up
+and drink them. The inhabitants of the country always seem to finish
+their meals with eggs in some form or another.
+
+The celebrated 'Bell of Quillota,' a mountain which derives its name
+from its peculiar shape, and which serves as a good landmark in
+entering the harbour of Valparaiso, is well seen from the railway, a
+little below Quillota Station. We stopped again at Limache, a little
+village, situated in the midst of a fertile country, about twenty-five
+miles from Valparaiso, where fruit, flowers, &c., were as freely
+offered for sale as before, and again at Viña del Mar, the next
+station to Valparaiso. There is a good hotel here, in the midst of a
+pretty garden, where you can get an excellent breakfast or dinner.
+
+From this spot the line runs close along the edge of the sea, and we
+strained our eyes in vain, trying to discover the yacht. At the
+station we were assailed by porters and touts of every description,
+but, seeing no one to meet us, and not knowing where to go, we
+contented ourselves with collecting our luggage in a little heap,
+while a fight went on close by between a policeman and a coachman, who
+had been too persistent in his endeavours to obtain a fare. They
+knocked one another about a good deal, and broke one or two windows,
+after which they appeared quite satisfied, shook hands, and were good
+friends again. Tom, Mabelle, and Muriel arrived before it was over,
+and we were very glad to meet again after our short absence.
+
+A long, dusty drive brought us to the mole, and while the luggage was
+being packed into the boat, Tom and I went to call on the British
+Consul, where we found some letters. We were on board in time for two
+o'clock luncheon, after which, amid many interruptions from visitors,
+we devoured our news from home and other parts--for amongst our
+letters were some from Natal, India, Japan, Canada, Teneriffe, South
+American ports, St. Petersburg, Constantinople, and several other
+places, besides those from dear old England.
+
+About four o'clock Tom and I went ashore. We had intended going alone
+in the 'Flash' (our lightest boat), but a strong southerly wind had
+sprung up, which at once made the sea so rough that we went in the
+'Gleam' (the gig) instead, with six oars. It took the men all their
+time to get us ashore, though we had not far to go, for wind, tide,
+and waves were all against us.
+
+Valparaiso consists mainly of two interminable streets, running along
+the edge of the sea, at the foot of the hills, which rise immediately
+behind them, and on which are built all the residences and villas of
+the gentlemen of the place. Very few live in the town itself, which is
+composed almost entirely of large warehouses and fine shops, where you
+can get almost anything you want by paying between three and four
+times as much for it as you would do in England. For instance, the
+charge for hair-cutting is a dollar and a half (4s.), a
+three-and-sixpenny Letts's Diary costs two dollars and a half (10s.),
+a tall hat costs fifty-eight shillings, you must pay sixpence each for
+parchment luggage-labels, threepence apiece for quill pens, four
+shillings for a quire of common notepaper, and so on in proportion.
+
+We had, as I have said, seen the yacht leave Lota Bay, with a strong
+head-wind blowing, on Thursday, the 19th instant. In a few hours the
+wind fell to a calm, which then changed to a light favourable breeze,
+and the 'Sunbeam' reached Valparaiso on the following Saturday
+afternoon, anchoring out in the bay, not far from H.M.S. 'Opal.' Here
+they rolled and tumbled about even more than if they had been at sea,
+the swinging capacities of the saloon tables and lamps being tried to
+the utmost. On Sunday half the men went ashore for a few hours' leave,
+but neither they nor the boat returned until the next morning, as they
+had not been allowed to leave the shore after nine o'clock. In the
+meantime Tom had been told that small-pox was raging in the town, and
+he was much annoyed at their having to pass the night on shore, owing
+to proper inquiries as to the regulations of the port not having been
+made by them on landing. The next day the doctor went to see some
+medical _confrères_ at the hospital, and found that the reports were
+much exaggerated, the reality being that small-pox is always more or
+less prevalent both here and at Santiago. Three months ago it was very
+bad, but at the present time it is not worse than usual. Tom and
+Mabelle started for Santiago on Monday, but unfortunately left their
+letters of introduction behind; and as they did not like the hotel,
+they found it rather dull. We could not telegraph to them from
+Cauquenes, or anywhere _en route_, for there were no wires; so on
+Wednesday morning, not hearing or seeing anything of us, they returned
+to Valparaiso. Tom left a long letter for me, with enclosures (which I
+never received), in the innkeeper's hands, asking for a telegraphic
+reply as to our plans and intentions, and, as I have already
+mentioned, never said a word about coming back. Thursday was spent in
+seeing what little there is to see in Valparaiso, and in visiting the
+'Opal.' On Friday Tom went for a sail, moved the yacht close inshore,
+had a dinner-party on board, and went to a pleasant ball afterwards,
+given by the Philharmonic Society, an association of the same sort as
+the one at Rio. It was not, however, called a regular ball, but a
+_teriulia_, so the ladies were in _demi-toilette_. Tom described the
+room as good, the floor first-rate, the music excellent, the ladies
+good-looking, and the men agreeable. To-day he met us at the station
+with the children; and now, therefore, one account will describe the
+movements of the whole reunited party.
+
+_Sunday, October 29th_.--We all went ashore to church, having been
+told it was only five minutes' walk from the landing-place, instead of
+which it took us at least a quarter of an hour, in an intensely hot
+sun, to climb up a steep hill. The building itself was large, airy,
+and cool, and there is a good organ and choir, but most of the
+choristers had gone away to-day to a picnic in the country. During the
+Litany our attention was suddenly drawn to the fact that earthquakes
+are matters of frequent occurrence in this country, by a special
+prayer being offered up for preservation from them and their
+destructive effects.
+
+At four o'clock we went ashore for a ride, and having climbed the
+hills at the back of the town, which command extensive views over land
+and sea, we galloped across the downs and through some villages on to
+the old high road from Valparaiso to Santiago, along which we rode
+only for a few yards, turning off into a romantic valley, where the
+path was so narrow that we could barely squeeze through between the
+thickly growing shrubs and trees. At last we went up a steep hill on
+to another high road, and re-entered the town quite at the opposite
+end to that at which we had left it, after which a ride of two miles
+along the stony, ill-paved streets brought us to the landing-place.
+
+_Monday, October 30th_.--We were to be off directly the sea-breeze
+sprang up, at about eleven o'clock, and as I had many letters to
+write, I was called at 4 a.m., and finished them all before breakfast
+at eight. But first one visitor and then another arrived, and it was
+nearly eleven o'clock when we landed to make the final preparations
+for starting on our long voyage of eleven thousand miles across the
+Pacific.
+
+Our route, as at present, arranged, will be viâ the Society, Friendly,
+and Sandwich Islands. Juan Fernandez (Robinson Crusoe's Island), which
+we at first thought of visiting, we have been obliged, I am sorry to
+say, to give up, not on account of its distance from Valparaiso, as it
+is only 270 miles off, but because it lies too far to the southward,
+and is consequently quite out of the track of the trade wind, which we
+ought to pick up, according to the charts and sailing directions,
+about 500 miles to the northward and westward of this place. I have
+been trying to persuade Tom to steam out five or six hundred miles, so
+that we may make a quick passage and economise our time as much as
+possible, but he is anxious to do _the whole_ voyage under sail, and
+we are therefore taking very little coal on board, in order to be in
+the best trim. If we do not pick up a wind, however, there is no
+knowing how long we may lollop about. I suppose till we are short of
+water and fresh provisions, when the fires will be lighted and we
+shall steam away to the nearest island--uninhabited, we will hope, or
+at any rate peopled by friendly natives, which is rather the
+exception than the rule in the south-east corner of the Low
+Archipelago. There we shall fill up with fresh water, bananas,
+bread-fruit, and perhaps a wild hog or two, and resume our voyage to
+Tahiti. But this is the least favourable view of the matter, and we
+must hope to fall in with the trades soon, and that they will blow
+strong and true.
+
+The island of Juan Fernandez now belongs to the Chilian government,
+but is let on a long lease to a man who, they say here, is somewhat of
+a robber. He was very desirous that we should give him a passage in
+the yacht, and another man wanted to come too, with some pointers, to
+show us the best spots for game, goats, turtle, crayfish, and
+sea-fish, with all of which the place abounds. Some cattle have also
+been introduced, and the island is much frequented by whalers, who go
+there for fresh provisions and water. There is nothing particular to
+be seen, however, and the scenery of the island is not remarkable; at
+least, so people who have been there tell us, and the photographs I
+have bought quite confirm their report. Admiral Simpson, who stayed
+there once for a fortnight, told us a good deal about the place, and
+strongly recommended us not to go there unless we had plenty of time
+to spare, as we should not be repaid for our trouble, which would
+probably only result in the dissipation of all our childish illusions.
+
+Our first step on landing this morning was to go to the Consul's to
+post our letters. By the bye, I hope people in England will appreciate
+them, for they cost between nine and ten pounds to send home. For our
+outward letters, although prepaid in England, we had to pay over eight
+pounds before we were allowed to have them from the office.
+Twenty-nine cases of stores, provisions, wine, &c., which had also
+been sent out, all arrived safely, and cost comparatively little.
+There are very good French hair-dressers here, a tempting hat-shop,
+and a well-stocked book-shop; but everything, as I have said, is
+frightfully dear.
+
+It was half-past three when the harbour-tug arrived to tow us out of
+the harbour and so save our getting up steam. There was not a breath
+of air stirring, but Tom hoped we should find more outside when the
+tug cast us off. As we dropped slowly out, we had a good view of the
+harbour and town; and we soon found ourselves once more fairly
+embarked on the bosom of the wide ocean.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+VALPARAISO TO TAHITI.
+
+    _The western sea was all aflame,_
+    _The day was well nigh done!_
+    _Almost upon the western wave_
+    _Rested the broad bright sun._
+
+
+_Tuesday, October 31st_.--Throughout the night a flat calm prevailed.
+The morning was wet and foggy, or we might still have seen Valparaiso,
+and perhaps have had a peep at Aconcagua. There was a light contrary
+wind from the N.W. throughout the day. In the afternoon we saw two
+whales blowing in the distance.
+
+_Wednesday, November 1st_.--An almost calm day, with a few light
+showers, and fitful but unfavourable breezes. Some thirty or forty
+little birds, which the sailors called Mother Carey's chickens, but
+which were smaller and more graceful than any I have seen of that
+name, followed closely in our wake. I was never tired of watching the
+dainty way in which they just touched the tips of the waves with their
+feet, and then started off afresh, like a little maiden skipping and
+hopping along, from sheer exuberance of spirit.
+
+_Thursday, November 2nd_.--A bright sunny morning, with a heavy swell
+and light contrary wind, but the sea became more tranquil towards the
+evening. The sunset was superb, and the afterglow, as is often the
+case in these latitudes, lighted up sky and sea with an indescribable
+beauty, which attained its greatest magnificence about five minutes
+after the sun had disappeared, reminding one of the glorious sunsets
+of the African deserts, so often described by travellers.
+
+_Friday, November 3rd_.--Still a blue sky, bright sunshine, smooth
+sea, and light head-wind. The crew have all turned tailors, and are
+making themselves new suits from some dungaree we bought at
+Valparaiso, the clothes we expected for them not having met us there.
+
+[Illustration: Juvenile Scrubbers.]
+
+_Saturday, November 4th_.--As fine as ever. This is certainly sailing
+luxuriously, if not swiftly. We have now settled down into our regular
+sea-ways, and have plenty to do on board; so the delay does not much
+signify. Still, our time is limited, and we all hope to fall in with
+the trades shortly to carry us to Tahiti or some of the South Sea
+islands. We caught half-a-dozen of the little petrels, for stuffing,
+by floating lines of black cotton astern, in which they became
+entangled.
+
+To-night's sunset was more superb than ever. Each moment produced a
+new and ever increasingly grand effect. I mean to try and take an
+instantaneous photograph of one. It would not, of course, reproduce
+all the marvellous shades of colouring, but it would perhaps give some
+idea of the forms of the masses of cloud, which are finer than any I
+ever saw before. This ocean seems to give one, in a strange way, a
+sense of solemn vastness, which was not produced to the same extent by
+the Atlantic. Whether this results from our knowledge of its size, or
+whether it is only fancy, I cannot say, but it is an impression which
+we all share.
+
+_Sunday, November 5th_.--Fine, and considerably hotter, though not
+unpleasantly so. We had the Litany at eleven, and evening prayers and
+a sermon at four o'clock. Not a single ship has passed within sight
+since we left Valparaiso, and the only living creatures we have seen
+are some albatrosses, a few white boobies, a cape-hen, the little
+petrels already mentioned, a shoal of porpoises, and two whales.
+
+_Monday, November 6th_.--Passed, at 3 a.m. to-day, a large barque,
+steering south, and at 8 a.m. a full-rigged ship, steering the same
+course. We held--as we do with every ship we pass--a short
+conversation with her through the means of the mercantile code of
+signals. (This habit of exchanging signals afterwards proved to have
+been a most useful practice, for when the report that the 'Sunbeam'
+had gone down with all hands was widely circulated through England, I
+might almost say the world,--for we found the report had preceded us
+by telegram to almost all the later ports we touched at,--the anxiety
+of our friends was relieved many days sooner than it would otherwise
+have been by the fact of our having spoken the German steamer
+'Sakhara,' in the Magellan Straits, Oct. 13, four days after we were
+supposed to have gone to the bottom.) The weather continues fine, and
+we have the same light baffling winds. We hoped, when we started, to
+average at least 200 miles a day, but now we have been a week at sea,
+and have only made good a little more than 700 miles altogether,
+though we have sailed over 800 miles through the water. It is,
+however, wonderful, in the opinion of the navigators, that we have
+made even as much progress as this, considering the very adverse
+circumstances under which the voyage has so far been performed, and we
+must endeavour to console ourselves with the reflection that the
+sailing qualities of the yacht have undergone another severe test in a
+satisfactory manner. How the provisions and water will last out, and
+what time we shall leave ourselves to see anything of Japan, are
+questions which, nevertheless, occasionally present themselves to our
+minds. Independently of such considerations, nothing could be more
+luxurious and delightful than our present mode of existence. With
+perfect weather, plenty of books to read and writing to do, no
+possibility of interruptions, one can map out one's day and dispose of
+one's time exactly as one pleases, until the half-past six o'clock
+dressing-bell--which always seems to come long before it is
+wanted--recalls one to the duties and necessities of life.
+
+[Illustration: Conversation at Sea.]
+
+_Wednesday, November 8th_.--A grey cloudy morning and a flat calm. At
+twelve o'clock, to the great joy of everybody on board, Tom decided to
+get up steam, as we have now been becalmed quite twenty-four hours,
+and have made but little progress in the right direction for some
+days. The alacrity with which the order to stow sails and raise the
+funnel was obeyed--every one lending a hand--and the delight expressed
+on every countenance, must have assured him of at least the popularity
+of his decision.
+
+Whilst we were waiting for steam to be got up, Tom took Muriel and me
+for a row in the 'Flash,' his own particular little boat, with about
+four inches of freeboard. The possibility of doing this will give you
+a better idea of the tranquillity of this vast ocean than any
+description I can write. At the same time, when we wanted to get into
+the boat, we found there was a considerable roll on, and that it was
+no easy matter without the aid of a gangway or ladder. We rowed a
+little way from the yacht, and, considering how quiet it had seemed to
+us when on board, it was wonderful to observe how she rolled in the
+trough of the sea, without sails to steady her or motive power to
+guide her. The Lota coals, though black and dirty beyond description,
+burn up very quickly, and in about an hour we were steaming merrily
+along, the Arabian horseshoe on our bowsprit's end being now pointed
+direct for the island of Tahiti, instead of for wherever the wind
+chose to blow us.
+
+_Thursday, November 9th_.--A flat calm at 6 a.m.; a very light fair
+wind at 9 a.m. In spite of my remonstrances, Tom determined, at
+half-past nine, to cease steaming and try sailing again. About twelve
+o'clock a puff came that sent us along at the rate of 10-1/2 knots for
+a short time; but it soon dropped, and during the rest of the
+afternoon and evening, our average speed was only three or four knots
+an hour. This is very poor work for the trades, but I don't believe we
+are really in them yet, in spite of the wind charts. It is possible
+that they may vary in different years; besides which it is now the
+height of summer, with the sun south of the line, which would
+naturally make them lighter.
+
+_Saturday, November 11th_.--At last we seem to be feeling the
+influence of the trades, as the wind continues to blow from the same
+direction, though it varies much in force. Sometimes we are going
+along at the rate of 11-3/4 knots, sometimes barely five. In the
+afternoon we had the usual Saturday singing practice.
+
+_Sunday, November 12th_.--Another lovely day. We had the Litany and
+hymns at eleven, evening service and sermon at four.
+
+Just before morning church some one turned on the water in the nursery
+bath, and forgot to turn it off again, so that when we came aft from
+the saloon we had the pleasure of finding everything in the children's
+cabins afloat, and that a good deal of water had got down into the
+hold. It was rather annoying at the time, but, I dare say, like many
+other present troubles, it was a good thing in the end. It obliged us,
+at any rate, to have all the stores brought up on deck, and led to our
+taking an inventory of our resources sooner than we should otherwise
+have done. I am sorry to say we found that, owing to the departure of
+our head steward and the illness of his successor, they have not been
+husbanded as carefully as they should have been, especially those
+provided for use forward. Sailors are more like children than grown-up
+men, and require as much looking after. While there is water in the
+tanks, for instance, they will use it in the most extravagant manner,
+without thought for the morrow; and they are quite as reckless with
+their other stores.
+
+I find, however, that one of the drawbacks to taking a very close
+personal interest in the housekeeping arrangements on board is the too
+intimate acquaintance one makes with the various individuals composing
+the live stock, the result being that the private particular history
+of every chicken, duck, turkey, and joint of mutton is apt to be
+remembered with a damaging effect to appetite.
+
+In the afternoon two boobies, the first birds we have seen for some
+days, paid us a visit. I suppose we are too far out to see anything
+more of our pretty little friends, the petrels.
+
+_Monday, November 13th_.--We had a regular turn-out and re-arrangement
+of our stores to-day, and discovered that the waste and mismanagement
+have been greater even than we at first supposed. Fortunately, we
+found some spare tins of provisions stowed away under the nursery
+floor and forgotten, and which will now come in very opportunely. But
+I fear that, even as it is, we may be seriously inconvenienced before
+getting to the end of our voyage. Of the six sheep, sixty chickens,
+thirty ducks, and four dozen pigeons, brought on board alive at
+Valparaiso, we have comparatively few left, and not a great deal to
+give those few to eat; so we must depend mainly on our potted meats
+and vegetables, which happen to be excellent. We often wonder how the
+earlier navigators got on, when there were no such things as tinned
+provisions, and when the facilities for carrying water were of the
+poorest description, while they were often months and months at sea,
+without an opportunity of replenishing their stores, and with no
+steam-power to fall back upon in case they were becalmed. Still more
+wonderful, in my opinion, is the successful manner in which the
+Spaniards managed to convey their hordes in tiny vessels, together
+with a sufficient quantity of forage for them, to the New World,
+where, according to all accounts, they generally arrived in good
+condition, fit to go to work or to war immediately.
+
+The wind increased in the evening and blew dead aft. In the middle of
+the night the mizen-halyards broke, and blocks and all came down with
+a tremendous crash, which caused both Tom and me to rush up on deck.
+About an hour and a half's work put everything straight again,
+however, though it looked a sad mess at first. We had been remarking
+at dinner how lucky we had been, with all this rolling about in calms
+and running before the wind, not to have had anything carried away or
+any of the ropes chafed. Personally, I think the accident is not to be
+regretted, for now all the fore and aft canvas is stowed, and we are
+running under square canvas alone, which is much steadier work, though
+we still roll considerably.
+
+_Tuesday, November 14th_.--Fine, with a strong fair wind. I have been
+laid up for a few days with a touch of my old enemy, Syrian fever, but
+am gradually recovering, and enjoy very much lying on deck and
+reading.
+
+Our victualling arrangements have now been satisfactorily settled, and
+everybody has been put on an allowance of water, our supply of which
+will last the whole ship's company of forty persons for five weeks,
+leaving one tank still in reserve in case of accidents. As we expect
+to reach our destination in about three weeks from the present time,
+we have therefore, I hope, an ample supply for all our requirements.
+
+_Wednesday, November 15th_.--Pleasant as we have found life at sea in
+the South Pacific hitherto, it is, I fear, monotonous to read about,
+and I dare say you will find it difficult to realise how quickly the
+days fly past, and how sorry we are when each one comes to an end. I
+am afraid they are among those things which do not repeat themselves.
+At any rate, they afford a golden opportunity for reading, such as we
+are not likely to have again often, if ever, in our busy lives; and
+Tom and I are endeavouring to make the best use of it by getting
+through as many of the seven hundred volumes we brought with us as
+possible. The weather favours us in our endeavours to be industrious;
+for, while it is sufficiently warm to indispose one for a very severe
+course of study, it has never been so hot as to compel us to lie down
+and do nothing but gasp for breath--which is what we were warned to
+expect. There is indeed one slight drawback to the perfect enjoyment
+of our present state of existence, and that is the incessant motion of
+the vessel. When she rolls as quickly as she has done to-day, it is
+difficult to settle down steadily to any occupation, and at last one
+cannot help feeling aggravated at the persistent manner in which
+everything, including one's self, refuses to be still for a single
+instant.
+
+_Thursday, November 16th_.--To-day it is really warm--not to say
+hot--with a bright cloudless sky, which renders an awning acceptable.
+We saw some 'bo's'n' birds for the first time, and more shoals of
+flying-fish. I wish a few of the latter would come on board; they
+would be an agreeable addition to our breakfast-table.
+
+The rolling still continues, the wind being dead aft, and nothing but
+our square canvas being set. The effect is rather wearisome, and one
+longs to be able to say 'Catch hold of her head and keep her still, if
+only for five minutes' peace and quietness!' Cooking is difficult, and
+even eating is a hazardous occupation; and at our evening game of
+cards we have to pocket our counters and markers and hold on as best
+we can.
+
+_Friday, November 17th_.--At 8 a.m. the course was altered, our
+fore-and-aft canvas was set again, and we were once more gliding along
+swiftly and smoothly through the water, to the great relief of every
+one on board. The day was lovely, and though it was warm, a pleasant
+breeze throughout the ship prevented our feeling uncomfortably hot.
+
+_Saturday, November 18th_.--The days are so much alike that it is
+difficult to find anything special to say about them. They fly so
+quickly that I was surprised to be reminded by the usual
+singing-practice this afternoon that another week had gone by.
+
+The two green paroquets, 'Coco' and 'Meta,' given to me by Mr. Fisher
+at Rosario, have turned out dear little pets, with the most amusing
+ways. They are terrible thieves, especially of sugar, pencils, pens,
+and paper, and being nearly always at liberty, they follow me about
+just like dogs, and coax and caress me with great affection. They do
+not care much for any one else, though they are civil to all and
+good-tempered even to the children, who, I am afraid, rather bore them
+with their attempts at petting. The other foreign birds, of which I
+have a large collection, are doing well, and I begin to hope I shall
+get them home safely after all. We had at one time about twenty
+parrots, belonging to the men, on board, all running about on deck
+forward, with their wings clipped, but about half of them have been
+lost overboard. The dogs keep their health and spirits wonderfully.
+Félise is quite young again, and she and Lulu have great games,
+tearing up and down and around the decks as hard as they can go.
+
+_Sunday, November 19th_.--I am convalescent at last, and appeared at
+breakfast this morning for the first time for ten days.
+
+The wind was very variable throughout the day. Between 6 and 7 a.m. we
+were going twelve knots; between 7 and 8 only three; but as we never
+stop, we manage to make up a fair average on the whole.
+
+At eleven o'clock we had the Communion Service and two hymns. At
+midday the week's work was made up, with the following result. Our
+position was in lat. 15° 38' S., long. 117° 52' W.; we were 3,057
+miles from Valparaiso,--1,335 of which had been accomplished since
+last Sunday,--and 1,818 miles from Tahiti.
+
+To-day we were not far from Easter Island, the southernmost island of
+Polynesia. Here as in the Ladrones, far away in the north-west quarter
+of the Pacific, most curious inscriptions are sometimes found carved
+in stone. Annexed is a photograph taken from one I saw at a later
+stage of the voyage.
+
+[Illustration: Inscription from Easter Island]
+
+The sails had been flapping, more or less, all day, and at the change
+of the dog-watches, at six o'clock, Tom ordered the men aft to stow
+the mizen. This they had scarcely begun to do when a light breeze
+sprang up, and in a few minutes increased to a strong one, before
+which we bowled along at the rate of nine knots. These sudden changes
+are of constant occurrence, and, coming as they do without the
+slightest warning, are quite inexplicable. If only we had our old
+square sails, and our bigger yards and topmast, we should have saved a
+good deal of time already; for one or two knots an hour extra amount
+to from 25 to 50 miles a day, and in a month's run the difference
+would not be far short of 1,500 miles. But we heard so much from
+people in England, who had visited these parts, of squalls and
+hurricanes, that Tom did not like to run the risk of being
+over-sparred, especially with a wife and children as passengers.
+
+_Monday, November 20th_.--The fore-and-aft sails were taken in, as
+they were doing no good and the square canvas was drawing. This
+allowed the mizen-awning to be spread, making a pleasant place to sit
+in and a capital playground for the children, who scamper about all
+day long, and do not appear to feel the heat a bit.
+
+_Tuesday, November 21st_.--Certainly a _very_ hot day. We made steady
+progress under the same canvas as yesterday.
+
+_Wednesday, November 22nd_.--Between 2 and 3 a.m. a nice breeze sprang
+up, and between 3 and 4.30 a.m. all the fore-and-aft sails were again
+set. It was deliciously cool on deck at that time; but the sun rose
+fierce and hot, and more or less killed the breeze as the day wore on.
+
+_Thursday, November 23rd_.--Twenty-four days out. We had hoped to
+reach Tahiti to-day, and Tom begins to regret that he did not steam
+some distance out from Valparaiso, so as to pick up the trades sooner.
+Still it is satisfactory to know how well the 'Sunbeam' can and does
+sail against light contrary winds, and to have an opportunity of
+developing some of her good points, of which we were previously hardly
+aware. How she manages to slip along as she does, four or five knots
+an hour, with not sufficient wind to blow a candle out, is a marvel to
+every one on board. More than once, when the hand-log has shown that
+we were going five knots, I have carried a naked light from one end of
+the deck to the other without its being extinguished.
+
+The sunrise was magnificent, and a splendid albatross, the largest we
+have yet seen, was at the same time visible in mid-air, floating
+against the rose-coloured clouds. He looked so grand, and calm, and
+majestic, that one could almost fancy him the bird of Jove himself,
+descending direct from the sun. Where do these birds rest? How far and
+how fast do they really fly? are questions for the naturalist. We have
+seen them many times at a distance of at least two thousand miles from
+the nearest land.
+
+About nine o'clock there was a slight breeze, but it fell as the sun
+rose, and the day was intensely hot.
+
+_Friday, November 24th_.--A fine breeze in the early morning, which,
+however, gradually died away. Having now quitted the regular track of
+the trade winds and got into the variables, we lighted fires at two
+o'clock. Then another light breeze sprang up for a few minutes, only
+to fall away again immediately, and at six o'clock we commenced to
+steam.
+
+_Saturday, November 25th_.--A very wet morning, the sky clearing at
+about ten, but the weather remaining dull, heavy, hot, and oppressive,
+throughout the day. But we were making good progress under steam,
+which rendered the state of things more endurable than it would
+otherwise have been.
+
+Whilst I was standing on deck at night a flying-fish flew against my
+throat and hung there, caught in the lace of my dress. He is a pretty
+specimen, but only his wings are to be preserved, for Muriel will have
+his body for breakfast to-morrow.
+
+_Sunday, November 26th_.--Our fourth consecutive Sunday at sea, and
+out of sight of land. At 4 a.m. the sails were spread to a good
+breeze. At 7 we stopped steaming, but at 10 the wind again fell light.
+The Litany was read on deck this morning on account of the heat. The
+observations at noon showed that we were in lat. 15° 47' S., long.
+135° 20' W., the distance accomplished during the last twenty-four
+hours being 181 miles. We have now made good 4,067 miles from
+Valparaiso, and are 815 miles distant from Tahiti. At 5 p.m. we had
+prayers and a sermon, also on deck. It was then almost calm, and at
+eight o'clock we again began steaming, in order to insure our making
+the island of Tatakotoroa, 200 miles off, before dark to-morrow.
+
+_Monday, November 27th_.--I was on deck at 3.30 a.m. Everybody on
+board was more or less excited at the prospect of making land, after
+twenty-eight days at sea. It was a delicious morning, with a
+favourable breeze, and under steam and sail we progressed at the rate
+of from 10 to 11-1/2 knots an hour. Several birds flew on board,
+amongst whom were two boobies, who hovered round us and appeared to
+examine everything with great curiosity, especially the little
+wind-vanes at the extremity of the masts. At last they settled on the
+foretopmast, whereupon one of the sailors went up to try and catch
+them. They observed his movements closely, and appeared to be
+specially interested in his cap; but as he approached, first one and
+then the other flew away for a few yards, and then returned to his
+former position. At last the man, watching his opportunity, managed to
+seize one of them by his legs and bring him down in triumph, despite
+flapping wings and pecks from a sharp beak. He was shut up in the
+fowl-pen--now, alas, empty of its proper denizens--where we had an
+opportunity of examining him before he was killed. He was a fine,
+handsome, grey bird, with large blue eyes, and a wild hawk-like look.
+
+At one o'clock we were almost sailing over the spot marked by Findlay
+as the situation of Tatakotopoto, or Anonymous Island; but there was
+nothing whatever visible in the shape of land, even from the masthead,
+where a man was stationed, and from which it was possible to see a
+distance of ten or fifteen miles. Tom went up himself several times
+and scanned the horizon carefully, but in vain. It is therefore
+evident either that the position of the island is incorrectly stated,
+or that it has become submerged. I believe that in these seas there
+are many islands marked that have no existence, and that several that
+do exist are not marked, which renders it necessary to keep a constant
+good look-out. What a charming task it would be thoroughly to survey
+these parts, and to correct the present charts where necessary, and
+how much I should like to be one of the officers appointed for the
+service!
+
+[Illustration: Tatakotoroa or Clarke Island]
+
+At 1.30 p.m. land was sighted from the mast-head, and at two o'clock I
+saw from the deck what looked like plumes of dark ostrich feathers
+rising from the sea. This was the island of Tatakotoroa--also known as
+Narcissus, or Clarke Island--to the eastward of the Paumotu or Low
+Archipelago of the South Seas. The sailing directions describe the
+inhabitants as 'hostile,' and Sir Edward Belcher mentions that some of
+them tried to cut off the boats sent from a man-of-war for water. We
+were therefore afraid to attempt a landing, but sailed as near as we
+could to the shore, which, surrounded by a rampart of snow-white
+coral, and clothed almost to the water's edge with feathery palms,
+cocoa-nut trees, and luxuriant vegetation of various kinds, looked
+very tempting. A few canoes were drawn up on the beach near a large
+hut, out of which three or four natives came, and, having looked at us
+for some time, ran off into the woods. Blue smoke could be seen
+curling up from several points of the forest, no doubt indicating the
+presence of more natives, whose dwellings were concealed by the trees.
+
+[Illustration: Going up the Mast in a Chair.]
+
+[Illustration: Children looking up]
+
+After lunch, Tom had me hoisted up to the foretopmast-head in a
+'boatswain's chair,' which is simply a small plank, suspended by ropes
+at the four corners, and used by the men to sit on when they scrape
+the masts. I was very carefully secured with a rope tied round my
+petticoats, and, knocking against the various ropes on my way, was
+then gently hoisted up to what seemed at first a giddy height; but
+when once I got accustomed to the smallness of the seat, the airiness
+of my perch, and the increased roll of the vessel, I found my position
+by no means an unpleasant one. Tom climbed up the rigging and joined
+me shortly afterwards. From our elevated post we could see plainly the
+formation of the island, and the lagoon in the centre, encircled by a
+band of coral, in some places white, bare, and narrow, in others wide
+and covered with palm-trees and rich vegetation; it was moreover
+possible to understand better the theory of the formation of these
+coral islands. I was so happy up aloft that I did not care to descend;
+and it was almost as interesting to observe what a strange and
+disproportioned appearance everything and everybody on board the yacht
+presented from my novel position, as it was to examine the island we
+were passing. The two younger children and the dogs took the greatest
+interest in my aërial expedition, and never ceased calling to me and
+barking, until I was once more let down safely into their midst. As
+soon as we had seen all we could of the island, fires were banked, and
+we proceeded under sail alone throughout the evening and night.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS.
+
+    _And all throughout the air there reigned the sense_
+    _Of waking dream with luscious thoughts o'erladen,_
+    _Of joy too conscious made and too intense_
+    _By the swift advent of excessive Aiden,_
+    _Bewilderment of beauty's affluence._
+
+
+_Tuesday, November 28th_.--We passed Anaa, or Chain Island, in the
+morning watch, before daybreak. I came on deck to try and get a
+glimpse of it, and was rewarded by a glorious sunrise. We had a nice
+eight-knot breeze and a strong current in our favour, and just before
+breakfast Tom descried from the masthead Amanu, or Möller Island,
+which we had hardly expected to make before ten or eleven o'clock.
+Some one remarked that it seemed almost as if it had come out to meet
+us. The reef encircling this island varies much in height and
+vegetation. In some places it supports a noble grove of trees, in
+others the sea breaks over the half-submerged coral-bed, the first
+obstacle it has met for 4,000 miles, with a roar like thunder.
+
+Before we had lost sight of Amanu, the island of Hao Harpe, or Bow
+Island, was visible on our port bow. I wished very much to land, and
+at last persuaded Tom, who was rather anxious on the score of the
+natives, to allow some of us to make the attempt, us cautioning to
+turn away from the shore directly, in case the islanders looked at all
+doubtful in their attitude and intentions. After lunch, therefore, we
+hove to, and the gig's crew were ordered to arm themselves with
+revolvers and rifles, which they were not to show unless required to
+do so. All the gentlemen had revolvers, and Mabelle and I were also
+provided with two small ones, Phillips and Muriel being the only
+unarmed members of the party. I took a bag full of beads, knives,
+looking-glasses, and pictures, for barter and presents, and with these
+preparations we set off to make our first personal acquaintance with
+the islanders of the South Pacific. Tom gave us a tow to windward, and
+we then rowed direct to a point on one side of the entrance to the
+lagoon, where we saw some natives waving something white. As we
+approached we could distinguish several figures standing on the point,
+under the shade of some cocoa-nut trees, and on the opposite side of
+the entrance some canoes were drawn up on the beach, by the side of a
+hut, close to a large clump of low trees. We were by this time
+surrounded by breakers, and it required no little skill to steer the
+boat safely through the broken water, between the race of the tide on
+one side, and the overfall from the coral reef on the other. It was
+successfully done, however, and, having rounded the point, we found
+ourselves at once in the waters of the tranquil lagoon. We should have
+preferred to land at the point, had it been possible, as it was
+doubtful whether it would be safe to go round the corner, and so lose
+sight of the yacht; but the intentions of the natives seemed
+peaceable, several of them running into the water up to their waists
+to meet us, while others could be seen hurrying along the beach, the
+women carrying what looked like bunches of fruit.
+
+It is really impossible to describe the beauty of the scene before us.
+Submarine coral forests, of every colour, studded with sea-flowers,
+anemones, and echinidæ, of a brilliancy only to be seen in dreamland,
+shoals of the brightest and swiftest fish darting and flashing in and
+out; shells, everyone of which was fit to hold the place of honour in
+a conchologist's collection, moving slowly along with their living
+inmates: this is what we saw when we looked down, from the side of the
+boat, into the depths below. The surface of the water glittered with
+every imaginable tint, from the palest aquamarine to the brightest
+emerald, from the pure light blue of the turquoise to the deep dark
+blue of the sapphire, and was dotted here and there with patches of
+red, brown, and green coral, rising from the mass below. Before us, on
+the shore, there spread the rich growth of tropical vegetation, shaded
+by palms and cocoa-nuts, and enlivened by the presence of native women
+in red, blue, and green garments, and men in motley costumes, bringing
+fish, fowls, and bunches of cocoa-nuts, borne, like the grapes brought
+back from the land of Canaan by the spies, on poles.
+
+As soon as we touched the shore the men rushed forward to meet us, and
+to shake hands, and, having left the muskets and revolvers judiciously
+out of sight in the boat, we were conducted to a cluster of huts, made
+of branches, or rather leaves, of the palm-tree, tied by their
+foot-stalks across two poles, and hanging down to the ground. Here we
+were met by the women and children, who, likewise, all went through
+the ceremony of shaking hands with us, after which the head-woman, who
+was very good-looking, and was dressed in a cherry-coloured calico
+gown, with two long plaits of black hair hanging down her back, spread
+a mat for me to sit upon just outside the hut. By this time there was
+quite a little crowd of people assembled round, amongst whom I noticed
+one woman with a baby, who had her hair sticking straight out all
+round her head, and another who held a portion of her dress constantly
+before her face. After the gentlemen had walked away she removed the
+cloth, and I then saw that her nose had been cut off. Most of the
+women were good-looking, with dark complexions and quantities of
+well-greased, neatly-plaited black hair, but we did not see a single
+young girl, though there were plenty of children and babies, and lots
+of boys, the latter of whom, like some of the older women, had only a
+piece of palm matting round their loins. We therefore came to the
+conclusion that the girls must have been sent away intentionally when
+the approach of the yacht was observed.
+
+[Illustration: Our First Landing in the South Pacific, Hao or Bow
+Island.]
+
+As soon as I was seated, the head-woman told one of the men to knock
+down some cocoa-nuts from the trees close by, and after cutting off
+the ends she offered us a drink of the fresh cool milk, which was all
+the sweeter and better for the fact that the nuts were not nearly
+ripe. While this was going on, the natives brought piles of
+cocoa-nuts, fish, and fowls, and laid them at our feet as a present.
+Some of the fish were of a dark brown colour, like bream, others were
+long and thin, with a pipe-like nose and four fins, somewhat
+resembling the wings of a flying-fish.
+
+Seeing smoke in the distance, rising from under some high palm-trees,
+we thought we should like to go and see whence it proceeded, and
+accordingly set off to walk through a sort of bush, over sharp coral
+that cut one's boots terribly, the sun blazing down upon us fiercely
+all the time, until we reached a little settlement, consisting of
+several huts, the inhabitants of which were absent. Fine plaited mats
+for beds, cocoa-nut shells for cups, mother-of-pearl shells for
+plates, and coral, of various kinds and shapes, for dishes and cooking
+utensils, formed their only furniture. We saw three women, one very
+old, with nothing but a palm-leaf mat as a covering, the others
+dressed in the apparently universal costume, consisting of a long
+bright-coloured gown, put into a yoke at the shoulders, and flowing
+thence loosely to the ground, which completely conceals the wearer's
+form, even to the tips of her toes. I think these dresses must come
+from England or America, for they are evidently machine-made, and the
+cotton-stuft of which they are composed has the most extraordinary
+patterns printed on it I ever saw. Cherry and white, dark blue and
+yellow or white stripes, red with yellow spots, and blue with yellow
+crosses, appear to be the favourite designs. The women seemed gentle
+and kind, and were delighted with some beads, looking-glasses, and
+knives I gave them, in return for which they brought us quantities of
+beautiful shells.
+
+We saw the large iron knee of a vessel in one spot during our walk,
+and wondered how it came there. In another place we saw a canoe in
+process of construction, ingeniously made of boards, sewed together
+with plaited palm-leaves. The canoes in use here are very high, long,
+and narrow, and are only kept from upsetting by means of a tremendous
+outrigger, consisting of a log fastened to the extremity of two bent
+pieces of wood, projecting sideways from each end of the boat. The
+only animals we met with in our ramble were four pigs and a few
+chickens, and no other live stock of any kind was visible. No attempt
+seemed to be made at the cultivation of the ground; and I think, if
+there had been, we must have observed it, for our party separated and
+walked a good distance in various directions.
+
+The natives made us understand that on the other side of the entrance
+to the lagoon, in the better sort of house we had noticed, there
+resided a white man. He did not, however, make his appearance during
+our visit, and I imagine he must have been one of those individuals
+called 'beach-combers,' referred to in so many of the books that treat
+of the South Sea Islands,--a sort of ne'er-do-well Englishman or
+American, rather afraid of meeting any of his own countrymen, but very
+clever at making a bargain between a ship's crew and the natives, with
+considerable profit to himself.
+
+Among the bushes we found numbers of large hermit-crabs, crawling, or
+rather running, about in whelk shells, half a dozen of them
+occasionally having a grand fight amongst themselves. We picked up at
+least twenty different sorts of gracefully shaped pieces of coral, and
+quantities of shells of an infinite variety of form and colour;
+cowries, helmet-shells, the shells from which cameos are sometimes
+cut; mother-of-pearl shells, and a large spiral univalve, nearly a
+foot long, with dark brown spots and stripes on a delicate
+cream-coloured ground, like the skin of a tiger or leopard. On our way
+back to the huts we peeped into several of the canoes drawn up on the
+beach, in which were some fish-spears and a fish-hook, nearly three
+inches long, made of solid mother-of-pearl, the natural curve of the
+shell from which it was cut being preserved. A piece of bone was
+securely fastened to it by means of some pig's hair, but there was no
+bait, and it seems that the glitter of the mother-of-pearl alone
+serves as a sufficient allurement to the fish.
+
+In nearly all accounts of voyages in the South Seas much space is
+devoted to the description of the purchase, or rather barter, of
+hogs. We thought we could not do better than follow as far as possible
+the example of our predecessors, and accordingly bought two little
+pigs for two shillings each. They were evidently quite pets, lying on
+the mats outside the huts, and coming when called, just like dogs. The
+one I first bought appeared to be quite happy and content to be
+carried under my arm. The natives seemed quite to understand the value
+of money, and did not hesitate to ask for it in return for the
+cocoa-nuts full of shells which they brought us. I fancy some of the
+Tahiti schooners trade here for pearl, shells, and bêche-de-mer.
+
+The cocoa-nuts, fowls, fish, coral, &c., having been put into our
+boat, we shook hands with the friendly islanders and embarked, and
+having rounded the point we soon found ourselves again in the broken
+water outside the lagoon, where the race of the tide and the overfall
+were now much more violent than they had been when we landed. If we
+had once been drawn into the current, we should have stood a good
+chance of being knocked to pieces on the coral reefs, strong as our
+boat was; but the danger was happily avoided, and we reached the yacht
+safely, much to Tom's relief.
+
+The natives did not exhibit the slightest curiosity about us during
+our visit to the island, and though they received us with courtesy,
+and assisted us as far as they could on our arrival and departure,
+they did not follow us about while on shore, nor, with the exception
+of one or two of them, did they take the trouble to walk across the
+point to see us get into the open sea and join the yacht. In this
+respect they might have given a lesson to many civilised people, so
+gentle, genial, and graceful, yet dignified, were their manners.
+
+The screw having been feathered and the sails set, our voyage was at
+once resumed. A few miles from where we had landed, we saw, high and
+dry on the coral reef skirting the island, a large square-built
+schooner, of about 500 tons, her masts gone, her hull bleached white
+by the sun, and a great hole in her side. She was on the inside of the
+reef, and must therefore either have drifted there from the lagoon, or
+else have been lifted bodily across by one of the big Pacific rollers,
+in some terrible storm. No doubt the iron knee we had seen on the
+island originally formed part of this vessel.
+
+_Wednesday, November 29th_.--We seem to have got into the real
+south-east trades, just as the chart tells us we ought to expect to
+lose them; for there was a strong fair breeze all day, which made it
+very pleasant on deck in the shade of the sails. But it was
+exceedingly hot in the saloon, where some of the woodwork has been
+pulled down, in order to secure better ventilation for the galley and
+the berths of some of the men, who, I hope, appreciate the alteration,
+for it is a source of considerable discomfort to us.
+
+We had the bigger of our two little pigs for dinner to-day, and a
+welcome change it was from the salt and potted meats. He was most
+excellent, and fully corroborated Captain Cook's statement as to the
+superiority of South Sea Island pork to any other--a fact which is
+doubtless due to the pigs being fed entirely on cocoa-nuts and
+bread-fruit. Still it seemed a pity to eat such a tame creature, and I
+mean to try and preserve the other one's life, unless we are much
+longer than we expect in reaching Tahiti. He is only about ten inches
+long, but looks at least a hundred years old, and is altogether the
+most quaint, old-fashioned little object you ever saw. He has taken a
+great fancy to the dogs, and trots about after me with them
+everywhere, on the tips of his little toes, even up and down the steep
+cabin stairs. I call him Agag, because he walks so delicately, whilst
+others accost him as Beau, not only on account of his elegant manners,
+but as being the name of his former home.
+
+The moon was more brilliant this evening than we have yet seen her
+during our voyage, and we could enjoy sitting on deck reading, and
+even doing some coarse needlework, without any other light. One
+splendid meteor flashed across the sky. It was of a light orange
+colour, with a fiery tail about two degrees in extent, and described
+in its course an arc of about sixty degrees, from S.S.E. to N.N.W.,
+before it disappeared into space, far above the horizon. If the night
+had been darker, the spectacle would have been finer; but even as it
+was, the moon seemed quite paled for a few minutes afterwards. We have
+seen many meteors, falling-stars, and shooting-stars since we left
+Valparaiso, but none so fine as the one this evening.
+
+_Friday, December 1st_.--The sun rose grandly, but the heavy black and
+red clouds, looking like flames and smoke from a furnace, gave promise
+of more rain. The heat was greater to-day than any we have yet felt;
+and it is now nearly mid-winter at home.
+
+[Illustration: Maitea.]
+
+At 5 a.m. we made the island of Maitea, and expected to reach it in
+about an hour and a half; but the wind fell light, and it was a
+quarter to ten before we got into the gig and set out for the shore.
+There are not many instructions about landing, either in Captain Cook
+or Findlay, but the latter mentions that houses are to be found on the
+south side of the island. We thought, however, we could distinguish
+from the yacht a little cove, close to some huts, at another part of
+the shore, where the surf did not break so heavily. We accordingly
+rowed straight for it, and as we approached we could see the natives
+coming down from all parts to meet us, the women dressed in the same
+sort of long, bright, flowing garments we had seen at Hao Harpe, with
+the addition of garlands round their necks and heads, the men wearing
+gay-coloured loin-cloths, shirts of Manchester cotton stuff, flying
+loose in the wind, and sailors' hats with garlands round them, or
+coloured silk handkerchiefs--red and orange evidently having the
+preference--tied over their heads and jauntily knotted on one side.
+Several of the men waded out into the surf to meet us, sometimes
+standing on a rock two feet above the water, sometimes buried up to
+their necks by a sudden wave. But the rocks were sharp, the only
+available passage was narrow, and the rollers long and high; and
+altogether it looked, upon a closer inspection, too unpromising a
+place to attempt a landing. Much to the disappointment of the natives,
+therefore, we decided to go round and try the other side of the
+island. Seeing us prepare to depart, the people on shore immediately
+launched a tiny canoe, with an enormous outrigger, and a man dressed
+in a pale green shirt, dark blue and yellow under garment, and with a
+silk handkerchief and garland on his head, came alongside and made
+signs that he would take us ashore one by one in his frail-looking
+craft. But the heavy Pacific rollers and the sharp rocks daunted us,
+and we declined his offer with thanks, and rowed off to the southward.
+Anything more enticing than the cove we were quitting can hardly be
+imagined. A fringe of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit trees, overhanging an
+undergrowth of bright glossy foliage and flowers, a few half-hidden
+palm-leaf covered huts, from one of which--I suppose the chief's--a
+tattered Tahitian flag floated in the breeze, a small schooner drawn
+up among the trees and carefully covered with mats, the steep
+sugar-loaf point, at the entrance to the cove, clothed to its summit
+with grass and vegetation: these were the objects which attracted our
+attention in our hurried survey of the scene.
+
+[Illustration: Our Boatman]
+
+We had to give the island a wide berth in rowing round it, on account
+of the heavy rollers, which seemed to come from every side, breaking
+in surf against the dark brown cliffs, and throwing columns of white
+spray, from which the brilliant sunshine was reflected in rainbow
+hues, high into the air. As we proceeded matters looked worse and
+worse, and the motion of the boat became so disagreeable that both
+Muriel and I were very ill. At last we came to a spot where we could
+see some people sitting on the shore, and several others, who had
+probably come over from the other side to meet us, running swiftly
+down the sides of the cliffs to the beach. The island was of a
+different character from the one we had already visited, and was
+evidently of volcanic origin. No coral was anywhere to be seen, but
+there were big rocks jutting out at intervals into the sea all round
+it, one of which seemed large enough to afford us a sort of shelter in
+landing. The natives waved and pointed towards the channel beyond this
+rock, and one or two swam out to meet us; but we soon found that the
+channel would not be wide enough to admit our big boat, though it was
+no doubt sufficient for a light canoe, drawing some two inches of
+water. We therefore reluctantly turned away and resumed our uneasy
+coasting voyage, in the course of which we passed some nearly leafless
+trees, full of white patches, too large for flowers, which afterwards
+turned out to be booby-birds, who here find a resting-place. They are
+so numerous that it is hardly possible to walk beneath the trees
+without treading on their eggs.
+
+Having completed the circuit of the island, we found ourselves once
+more opposite the spot where we had first thought of landing, and the
+tide being by this time a little higher, we decided to make another
+attempt. Some of the natives, seeing us approach, plunged into the
+water as before, and seized the gunwale of the boat, while others, on
+shore, brought down rollers to put beneath our keel. We went in on the
+top of a big wave, and thus at last found ourselves--boat and
+all--high and dry on the beach of Maitea.
+
+The people came down to meet us, and conducted us to the house of the
+chief, who, with his pretty wife, received us kindly, but with much
+gravity and dignity. Mats were placed for me to sit upon, wreaths were
+offered me for my head and neck, and cocoa-nut milk to drink. We
+wished for some bananas, and they immediately cut down a tree in order
+to obtain a bunch. Cocoa-nuts were at the same time thrown down from
+the trees, and a collection of fruit, poultry, and meat--the latter
+consisting of the immemorial hog--was laid at our feet, as a present
+from the chief. The rest of the natives brought us pearls, shells,
+mother-of-pearl, small canoes, fish-hooks, young boobies, and all
+sorts of things, for barter; but the chief himself refused any return
+for his gift. Perhaps the greatest curiosity they offered us was about
+six fathoms of fine twine, made from human hair. Before these islands
+were visited by Europeans, this was the material from which
+fishing-lines were made; but it is now rarely used, and is
+consequently very difficult to procure. The young boobies they brought
+us looked just like a white powder-puff, and were covered with down
+far thicker and softer than any swan's down I ever saw.
+
+The natives seemed quite _au fait_ in the matter of monetary
+transactions and exchanges. For an English sovereign they would give
+you change at the rate of five dollars. Chilian or United States'
+dollars they accepted readily, but Brazilian currency they would not
+look at. They were pleased with knives, beads, looking-glasses, and
+picture papers I had brought on shore, and we did a brisk trade. We
+experienced great difficulty in explaining to them that we wanted some
+fresh eggs, Muriel's especial fancy, and a luxury which we have been
+without for some time. At last, by pointing to the fowls and picking
+up some small egg-shaped stones, we managed to procure a few, though,
+from the time it took to collect them, I should think the island must
+have been scoured in the search for them.
+
+Most of the natives seemed puzzled to comprehend why we had visited
+the island at all. 'No sell brandy?'--'No.' 'No stealy men?'--'No.'
+'No do what then?' Their knowledge of English was too limited to
+enable us to make them understand that we were only making a voyage of
+circumnavigation in a yacht.
+
+It was now time to bid farewell to our amiable hosts and their
+beautiful island. As we reached the landing-place, a small schooner,
+which we had previously noticed in the distance, came close to the
+shore, and a canoe put off from the island to meet it. We found that
+the vessel was bringing back from Tahiti and other places some of the
+inhabitants of the island, who had been away on a visit or in search
+of work. The meeting of the reunited friends and relatives was in
+some cases quite touching. Two women, in particular, sat and embraced
+each other for nearly a quarter of an hour, without moving, but with
+tears running down their faces.
+
+All our gifts and purchases having been placed in the boat, and one or
+two of us having embarked, she was shoved out over the wooden rollers
+into the narrow channel, where she lay-to while the rest of the party
+were brought alongside, one by one, in a frail canoe--an operation
+which occupied some time, during which we had leisure once more to
+admire the little bay I have already attempted to describe. We asked
+the captain of the schooner, who spoke French, to give us a tow off to
+the yacht, which he willingly consented to do, chatting cheerfully all
+the time, but evidently fearful of approaching too close to the yacht,
+and positively refusing our invitation to him to come on board. There
+can be little doubt that he mistrusted our intentions, and feared we
+might attempt to kidnap him and his crew; for the whites have, in too
+many cases, behaved in a most villanous manner to the inhabitants of
+these islands, who are, as a rule--to which there are of course
+exceptions--a kind and gentle people. I think if the many instances of
+the murder of ships' and boats' crews could be thoroughly sifted to
+the bottom, it would be found that most of them were acts of reprisal
+and revenge for brutal atrocities committed on the defenceless
+natives, who have been kidnapped, plundered, and murdered by
+unscrupulous traders and adventurers. Unfortunately, the good suffer
+for the bad, and such lives as those of Captain Goodenough and Bishop
+Patteson are sacrificed through the unpardonable misconduct of
+others--perhaps their own countrymen. It is still quite a chance how
+you may be received in some of the islands; for if the visit of the
+last ship was the occasion of the murder, plunder, and ill-treatment
+of the inhabitants, it is not to be wondered at that the next comers
+should be received with distrust, if not with treachery and violence.
+
+We reached the yacht at four o'clock, rather exhausted by so many
+hours' exposure to the broiling sun, having had nothing to eat since
+breakfast, at 7 a.m., except cocoa-nuts and bananas. The ship was put
+about, the sails filled, and, continuing steadily on our course
+throughout the evening, we made the smaller of the two peninsulas that
+form the island of Tahiti at 10.30 p.m.
+
+_Saturday, December 2nd_. We were dodging on and off all night, and at
+daybreak the weather was thick and rainy. At 4.30 a.m. we made the
+land again, and crept slowly along it, past Point Venus and the
+lighthouse in Matavai Bay (Captain Cook's first anchorage), until we
+were off the harbour of Papeete.[8] The rain was now descending in
+torrents, and we lay-to outside the reef for a short time, until a
+French pilot came on board and took us in through the narrow entrance.
+It was curious, while we were tumbling about in the rough sea outside,
+to see the natives placidly fishing in the tiniest of canoes on the
+lagoon inside the reef, the waves beating all the time furiously on
+the outer surface of the coral breakwater, as if anxious to seize and
+engulf them.
+
+[Footnote 8: 'Papiete' or 'Papeete,' _a bag of water_.]
+
+At nine o'clock we were safely anchored in the chief port of the
+island of Tahiti.
+
+Perhaps I cannot better bring this account of our long voyage from
+Valparaiso to a conclusion than by a quotation from a charming book,
+given to me at Rio, which I have lately been reading Baron de Hubner's
+'Promenade autour du Monde:'--'Les jours se suivent et se ressemblent.
+Sauf le court épisode du mauvais temps, ces trois semaines me font
+l'effet d'un charmant rêve, d'un conte de fée, d'une promenade
+imaginaire à travers une salle immense, tout or et lapis-lazuli. Pas
+un moment d'ennui ou d'impatience. Si vous voulez abréger les
+longueurs d'une grande traversée, distribuez bien votre temps, et
+observez le règlement que vous vous êtes imposé. C'est un moyen sûr de
+se faire promptement à la vie claustrale et même d'en jouir.'
+
+We have been five weeks at sea, and have enjoyed them quite as much as
+the Baron did his three. We saw but two ships between Valparaiso and
+Tatakotoroa: he saw only one between San Francisco and Yokohama. It is
+indeed a vast and lonely ocean that we have traversed.
+
+[Illustration: Quarantine Island, Papeete]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+AT TAHITI.
+
+    _The cava feast, the yam, the cocoa's root,_
+    _Which bears at once the cup, and milk, and fruit,_
+    _The bread-tree which, without the ploughshare, yields_
+    _The unreap'd harvest of unfurrowed fields._
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+    _These, with the luxuries of seas and woods,_
+    _The airy joys of social solitudes,_
+    _Tamed each rude wanderer._
+
+
+[Illustration: Under the Trees, Papeete]
+
+_Saturday, December 2nd_.--The anchor was dropped in the harbour of
+Papeete at nine o'clock, and a couple of hours later, by which time
+the weather had cleared, we went ashore, and at once found ourselves
+in the midst of a fairy-like scene, to describe which is almost
+impossible, so bewildering is it in the brightness and variety of its
+colouring. The magnolias and yellow and scarlet hibiscus,
+overshadowing the water, the velvety turf, on to which one steps from
+the boat, the white road running between rows of wooden houses, whose
+little gardens are a mass of flowers, the men and women clad in the
+gayest robes and decked with flowers, the piles of unfamiliar fruit
+lying on the grass, waiting to be transported to the coasting vessels
+in the harbour, the wide-spreading background of hills clad in verdure
+to their summits--these are but a few of the objects which greet the
+new-comer in his first contact with the shore.
+
+We strolled about, and left our letters of introduction; but the
+people to whom they were addressed were at breakfast, and we were
+deliberating how best to dispose of our time, when a gentleman
+accosted us, and, seeing how new it all was to us strangers, offered
+to show us round the town.
+
+The streets of Papeete, running back at right angles with the beach,
+seem to have wonderfully grand names, such as the Rue de Rivoli, Rue
+de Paris, &c. Every street is shaded by an avenue of high trees, whose
+branches meet and interlace overhead, forming a sort of leafy tunnel,
+through which the sea-breeze passes refreshingly. There is also what
+is called the Chinamen's quarter, through which we walked, and which
+consists of a collection of regular Chinese-built bamboo houses, whose
+occupants all wore their national costume, pigtail included. The
+French commandant lives in a charming residence, surrounded by
+gardens, just opposite the palace of Queen Pomare, who is at present
+at the island of Bola-Bola, taking care of her little grandchild, aged
+five, the queen of the island. She went down in a French man-of-war,
+the 'Limier,' ten days ago, and has been obliged to remain, owing to
+some disturbances amongst the natives. I am rather disappointed that
+she is absent, as I should like to see a person of whom I have heard
+so much.
+
+Having completed our tour, we next went to call on the British Consul,
+who received us kindly, and entertained us with an interesting account
+of the island and its inhabitants, its pearl-fisheries and trade, the
+French policy, the missionaries, &c., on all of which subjects he is
+well informed. He has just completed an exhaustive consular report on
+the condition of the island, which will, no doubt, appear in due
+course in the form of a blue-book.
+
+On our return to Messrs. Brander's office, where we had left one of
+our letters of introduction, we found the manager, with whom we had a
+long chat before returning on board.
+
+[Illustration: Chætodon Tricolor.]
+
+At 5 p.m. we went for a row in the 'Glance' and the 'Flash' to the
+coral reef, now illumined by the rays of the setting sun. Who can
+describe these wonderful gardens of the deep, on which we now gazed
+through ten and twenty fathoms of crystal water? Who can enumerate or
+describe the strange creatures moving about and darting hither and
+thither, amid the masses of coral forming their submarine home? There
+were shells of rare shape, brighter than if they had been polished by
+the hand of the most skilful artist; crabs of all sizes, scuttling and
+sidling along; sea-anemones, spreading their delicate feelers in
+search of prey; and many other kinds of zoophytes, crawling slowly
+over the reef; and scarlet, blue, yellow, gold, violet, spotted,
+striped, and winged fish, short, long, pointed, and blunt, of the
+most varied shapes, were darting about like birds among the coral
+trees.
+
+At last, after frequent stoppages, to allow time for admiration, we
+reached the outer reef, hauled the boat up and made her fast, and, in
+bathing shoes, started on a paddling expedition. Such a paddle it was,
+too, over the coral, the surf breaking far above our heads, and the
+underflow, though only a few inches deep, nearly carrying me and the
+children off our legs! There were one or two native fishermen walking
+along the reef, whipping the water; but they appeared to have caught
+only a few small rock-fish, pretty enough to look at, but not
+apparently good to eat.
+
+The shades of night compelled us to return to the yacht, laden with
+corals of many different species. After dinner the bay was illuminated
+by the torches of the native fishermen, in canoes, on the reef. Tom
+and I went to look at them, but did not see them catch anything. Each
+canoe contained at least three people, one of whom propelled the boat,
+another stood up waving about a torch dipped in some resinous
+substance, which threw a strong light on the water, while the third
+stood in the bows, armed with a spear, made of a bundle of wires, tied
+to a long pole, not at all unlike a gigantic egg-whip, with all its
+loops cut into points. This is aimed with great dexterity at the fish,
+who are either transfixed or jammed between the prongs. The fine
+figures of the natives, lighted up by the flickering torches, and
+standing out in bold relief against the dark blue starlit sky, would
+have served as models for the sculptors of ancient Greece.
+
+_Sunday, December 3rd_.--At a quarter to five this morning some of us
+landed to see the market, this being the great day when the natives
+come in from the country and surrounding villages, by sea and by land,
+in boats, or on horseback, to sell their produce, and buy necessaries
+for the coming week. We walked through the shady streets to the two
+covered market buildings, partitioned across with great bunches of
+oranges, plantains, and many-coloured vegetables, hung on strings. The
+mats, beds, and pillows still lying about suggested the idea that the
+salesmen and women had passed the night amongst their wares. The gaily
+attired, good-looking, flower-decorated crowd, of some seven or eight
+hundred people, all chatting and laughing, and some staring at us--but
+not rudely--looked much more like a chorus of opera-singers, dressed
+for their parts in some grand spectacle, than ordinary market-going
+peasants. Whichever way one turned, the prospect was an animated and
+attractive one. Here, beneath the shade of large, smooth, light-green
+banana leaves, was a group of earnest bargainers for mysterious-looking
+fish, luscious fruit, and vegetables; there, sheltered by a drooping
+mango, whose rich clusters of purple and orange fruit hung in tempting
+proximity to lips and hands, another little crowd was similarly
+engaged. Orange-trees were evidently favourite _rendezvous_; and a row
+of flower-sellers had established themselves in front of a hedge of
+scarlet hibiscus and double Cape jasmine. Every vendor carried his
+stock-in-trade, however small the articles composing it might be, on a
+bamboo pole, across his shoulder, occasionally with rather ludicrous
+effect, as, for instance, when the thick but light pole supported only
+a tiny fish six inches long at one end, and two mangoes at the other.
+Everybody seemed to have brought to market just what he or she
+happened to have on hand, however small the quantity. The women would
+have one, two, or three new-laid eggs in a leaf basket, one crab or
+lobster, three or four prawns, or one little trout. Under these
+circumstances, marketing for so large a party as ours was a somewhat
+lengthy operation, and I was much amused in watching our _proveedor_,
+as he went about collecting things by ones and twos, until he had
+piled a little cart quite full, and had had it pushed off to the shady
+quay.
+
+[Illustration: Chætodon Plagmance]
+
+We strolled about until six o'clock, at which hour the purchasers
+began to disperse, and were just preparing to depart likewise, when an
+old man, carrying half-a-dozen little fish, and followed by a small
+boy laden with vegetables and fruit, introduced himself to us as the
+brother-in-law of Queen Pomare IV. and chief of Papeete, and, after a
+short talk, invited us to visit him at his house. We consented, and,
+following him, presently reached a break in the hedge and ditch that
+ran along the side of the road, beyond which was a track, bordered by
+pineapples and dracænas, leading to a superior sort of house, built in
+the native style, and surrounded, as usual, by bread-fruit, cocoa-nut,
+banana, mango, and guava trees. We were conducted into the one large
+room, which contained two four-post bedsteads and four mattresses,
+laid on the floor, two or three trunks, and a table in the corner, on
+which were writing materials and a few books. The chief himself spoke
+a very little English, his son an equally small amount of French; so
+the conversation languished, and after a decent interval we rose to
+depart. Our host asked if he might 'come and see my ship,' and
+procured pen, ink, and paper--not of the best quality--for me to write
+an order for him do so, 'in case lady not at home.' He also presented
+me with some pictures of soldiers, drawn by his son--a boy about
+eleven years old, of whom he seemed very proud, and expressed his
+regret that we could not prolong our stay, at the same time placing at
+our disposal the whole house and garden, including a fat sow and
+eleven little pigs.
+
+Several other visitors had arrived by this time, one of whom was on
+horseback, and, as I was rather tired, he was asked if he would kindly
+allow me to ride down to the landing place. He replied that he would
+lend the horse to a gentleman, but not to me, as the saddle was not
+suitable. I explained that this made no difference to me, and mounted,
+though I did not attempt to follow the fashion of the native ladies
+here, who ride like men. Our new friend was quite delighted at this,
+and volunteered himself to show us something of the neighbourhood.
+Accordingly, leading my--or rather his--horse, and guiding him
+carefully over all the rough places, he took us through groves and
+gardens to the grounds belonging to the royal family, in which were
+plantations of various kinds of trees, and a thick undergrowth of
+guava. After an enjoyable little expedition we returned to the yacht
+at about half-past seven, accompanied by the small boy who had been
+carrying our special purchases from the market all this time, and by a
+little tail of followers.
+
+At half-past eight we breakfasted, so as to be ready for the service
+at the native church at ten o'clock; but several visitors arrived in
+the interval, and we had rather a bustle to get off in time, after
+all. We landed close to the church, under the shade of an hibiscus,
+whose yellow and orange flowers dropped off into the sea and floated
+away amongst the coral rocks, peeping out of the water here and there.
+The building appeared to be full to overflowing. The windows and doors
+were all wide open, and many members of the congregation were seated
+on the steps, on the lawn, and on the grassy slope beyond, listening
+to a discourse in the native language. Most of the people wore the
+native costume, which, especially when made of black stuff and
+surmounted by a little sailor's hat, decorated with a bandana
+handkerchief or a wreath of flowers, was very becoming. Sailors' hats
+are universally worn, and are generally made by the natives themselves
+from plantain or palm leaves, or from the inside fibre of the
+arrowroot. Some rather elderly men and women in the front rows were
+taking notes of the sermon. I found afterwards that they belonged to
+the Bible class, and that their great pride was to meet after the
+service and repeat by heart nearly all they had heard. This seems to
+show at least a desire to profit by the minister's efforts.
+
+After the usual service there were two christenings. The babies were
+held at the font by the men, who looked extremely sheepish. One baby
+was grandly attired in a book-muslin dress, with flounces, a tail at
+least six feet long dragging on the ground, and a lace cap with
+cherry-coloured bows; the other was nearly as smart, in a white-worked
+long frock and cap, trimmed with blue bows. The christenings over,
+there was a hymn, somewhat monotonous as to time and tune, but sung
+with much fervour, followed by the administration of the sacrament, in
+which cocoa-nut milk took the place of wine, and bread-fruit that of
+bread. The proper elements were originally used, but experience proved
+that, although the bread went round pretty well, the cup was almost
+invariably emptied by the first two or three communicants, sometimes
+with unfortunate results.
+
+After service we drove through the shady avenues of the town into the
+open country, past trim little villas and sugar-cane plantations,
+until we turned off the main road, and entered an avenue of mangoes,
+whence a rough road, cut through a guava thicket, leads to the main
+gate of Faataua[9]--a regular square Indian bungalow, with thatched
+roofs, verandahs covered with creepers, windows opening to the ground,
+and steps leading to the gardens on every side, ample accommodation
+for stables, kitchens, servants, being provided in numerous
+outbuildings.
+
+[Footnote 9: 'Fuatawah' or 'Faataua,' _to make friends_.]
+
+Soon after breakfast, Mrs. Brander dressed me in one of her own native
+costumes, and we drove to the outskirts of a dense forest, through
+which a footpath leads to the waterfall and fort of Faataua. Here we
+found horses waiting for us, on which we rode, accompanied by the
+gentlemen on foot, through a thick growth of palms, orange-trees,
+guavas, and other tropical trees, some of which were overhung and
+almost choked by luxuriant creepers. Specially noticeable among the
+latter was a gorgeous purple passion-flower, with orange-coloured
+fruit as big as pumpkins, that covered everything with its vigorous
+growth. The path was always narrow and sometimes steep, and we had
+frequently almost to creep under the overhanging boughs, or to turn
+aside to avoid a more than usually dense mass of creepers. We crossed
+several small rivers, and at last reached a spot that commanded a view
+of the waterfall, on the other side of a deep ravine. Just below the
+fort that crowns the height, a river issues from a narrow cleft in the
+rock, and falls at a single bound from the edge of an almost
+perpendicular cliff, 600 feet high, into the valley beneath. First one
+sees the rush of blue water, gradually changing in its descent to a
+cloud of white spray, which in its turn is lost in a rainbow of mist.
+Imagine that from beneath the shade of feathery palms and broad-leaved
+bananas through a network of ferns and creepers you are looking upon
+the Staubbach, in Switzerland, magnified in height, and with a
+background of verdure-clad mountains, and you will have some idea of
+the fall of Faataua as we beheld it.
+
+[Illustration: Waterfall at Faataua]
+
+After resting a little while and taking some sketches, we climbed up
+to the fort itself, a place of considerable interest, where the
+natives held out to the very last against the French. On the bank
+opposite the fort, the last islander killed during the struggle for
+independence was shot while trying to escape. Situated in the centre
+of a group of mountains, with valleys branching off in all directions,
+the fort could hold communication with every part of the coast, and
+there can be little doubt that it would have held out much longer than
+it did, but for the treachery of one of the garrison, who led the
+invaders, under cover of the night, and by devious paths, to the top
+of a hill commanding the position. Now the ramparts and earthworks are
+overrun and almost hidden by roses. Originally planted, I suppose, by
+the new-comers, they have spread rapidly in all directions, till the
+hill-sides and summits are quite a-blush with the fragrant bloom.
+
+Having enjoyed some strawberries and some icy cold water from a
+spring, and heard a long account of the war from the _gardiens_, we
+found it was time to commence our return journey, as it was now
+getting late. We descended much more quickly than we had come up, but
+daylight had faded into the brief tropical twilight, and that again
+into the shades of night, ere we reached the carriage.
+
+Dinner and evening service brought the day to a conclusion, and I
+retired, not unwillingly, to bed, to dream of the charms of Tahiti.
+
+Sometimes I think that all I have seen must be only a long vision, and
+that too soon I shall awaken to the cold reality; the flowers, the
+fruit, the colours worn by every one, the whole scene and its
+surroundings, seem almost too fairylike to have an actual existence. I
+am in despair when I attempt to describe all these things. I feel that
+I cannot do anything like justice to their merits, and yet I fear all
+the time that what I say may be looked upon as an exaggeration.
+
+    Long dreamy lawns, and birds on happy wings,
+      Keeping their homes in never-rifled bowers;
+    Cool fountains filling with their murmurings
+      The sunny silence 'twixt the chiming hours.
+
+At daybreak next morning, when I went on deck, it was a dead calm. The
+sea-breeze had not yet come in, and there was not a ripple on the
+surface of the harbour. Outside, two little white trading schooners
+lay becalmed; inside, the harbour-tug was getting up steam. On shore,
+a few gaily dressed natives were hurrying home with their early market
+produce, and others were stretched lazily on the grass at the water's
+edge or on the benches under the trees. Our stores for the day, a
+picturesque-looking heap of fish, fruit, vegetables, and flowers, were
+on the steps, waiting to be brought off, and guarded in the meantime
+by natives in costumes of pink, blue, orange, and a delicate pale
+green they specially affect. The light mists rolled gradually away
+from the mountain tops, and there was every prospect of a fine day for
+a projected excursion.
+
+I went ashore to fetch some of the fresh gathered fruit, and soon we
+had a feast of luscious pineapples, juicy mangoes, bananas, and
+oranges, with the dew still upon them. The mango is certainly the king
+of fruit. Its flavour is a combination of apricot and pineapple, with
+the slightest possible suspicion of turpentine thrown in, to give a
+piquancy to the whole. I dare say it sounds a strange mixture, but I
+can only say that the result is delicious. To enjoy mangoes thoroughly
+you ought not to eat them in company, but leaning over the side of the
+ship, in the early morning, with your sleeves tucked up to your
+elbows, using no knife and fork, but tearing off the skin with your
+teeth, and sucking the abundant juice.
+
+We breakfasted at half-past six, and, at a little before eight, went
+ashore, where we were met by a sort of _char-à-bancs_, or American
+wagon, with three seats, one behind the other, all facing the horses,
+and roomy and comfortable enough for two persons. Our Transatlantic
+cousins certainly understand thoroughly, and do their best to improve
+everything connected with, the locomotion they love so well. A Chinese
+coachman and a thin but active pair of little horses completed the
+turn-out. Mabelle sat beside the coachman, and we four packed into,
+the other two seats, with all our belongings.
+
+The sun was certainly _very_ powerful when we emerged from the shady
+groves of Papeete, but there was a nice breeze, and sometimes we got
+under the shade of cocoa-nut trees. We reached Punauia at about
+half-past nine, and changed horses there. While waiting, hot and
+thirsty, under the shelter of some trees, we asked for a cocoa-nut,
+whereupon a man standing by immediately tied a withy of banana leaves
+round his feet and proceeded to climb, or rather hop, up the nearest
+tree, raising himself with his two hands and his feet alternately,
+with an exactly similar action to that of our old friend the monkey on
+the stick. People who have tasted the cocoa-nut only in England can
+have no idea what a delicious fruit it really is when nearly ripe and
+freshly plucked. The natives remove the outer husk, just leaving a
+little piece to serve as a foot for the pale brown cup to rest on.
+They then smooth off the top, and you have an elegant vase, something
+like a mounted ostrich egg in appearance, lined with the snowiest
+ivory, and containing about three pints of cool sweet water. Why it is
+called milk I cannot understand, for it is as clear as crystal, and is
+always cool and refreshing, though the nut in which it is contained
+has generally been exposed to the fiercest sun. In many of the coral
+islands, where the water is brackish, the natives drink scarcely
+anything but cocoa-nut milk; and even here, if you are thirsty and ask
+for a glass of water, you are almost always presented with a cocoa-nut
+instead.
+
+From Punauia onwards the scenery increased in beauty, and the foliage
+was, if possible, more luxuriant than ever. The road ran through
+extensive coffee, sugar-cane, Indian corn, orange, cocoa-nut, and
+cotton plantations, and vanilla, carefully trained on bamboos, growing
+in the thick shade. Near Atimaono we passed the house of a great
+cotton planter, and, shortly afterwards, the curious huts, raised on
+platforms, built by some islanders he has imported from the Kingsmill
+group to work his plantations. They are a wild, savage-looking set,
+very inferior to the Tahitians in appearance. The cotton-mills, which
+formerly belonged to a company, are now all falling to ruin; and in
+many other parts of the island we passed cotton plantations uncleaned
+and neglected, and fast running to seed and waste. So long as the
+American war lasted, a slight profit could be made upon Tahitian
+cotton, but now it is hopeless to attempt to cultivate it with any
+prospect of adequate return.
+
+The sun was now at its height, and we longed to stop and bathe in one
+of the many fresh-water streams we crossed, and afterwards to eat our
+lunch by the wayside; but our Chinese coachman always pointed onwards,
+and said, 'Eatee much presently; horses eatee too.' At last we arrived
+at a little house, shaded by cocoa-nut trees, and built in an
+enclosure near the sea-shore, with 'Restaurant' written up over the
+door. We drove in, and were met by the proprietor, with what must have
+been rather an embarrassing multiplicity of women and children about
+his heels. The cloth was not laid, but the rooms looked clean, and
+there was a heap of tempting-looking fish and fruit in a corner. We
+assured him we were starving, and begged for luncheon as soon as
+possible; and, in the meantime, went for a dip in the sea. But the
+water was shallow, and the sun made the temperature at least 90°, so
+that our bath was not very refreshing. On our return we found the
+table most enticingly laid out, with little scarlet crayfish, embedded
+in cool green lettuce leaves, fruit of various kinds, good wine and
+fair bread, all arranged on a clean though coarse tablecloth. There
+was also a savoury omelette, so good that Tom asked for a second;
+when, to our astonishment, there appeared a plump roast fowl, with
+most artistic gravy and fried potatoes. Then came a _biftek aux
+champignons_, and some excellent coffee to wind up with. On making the
+host our compliments, he said, 'Je fais la cuisine moi-même, Madame.'
+In the course of our repast we again tasted the bread-fruit, but did
+not much appreciate it, though it was this time cooked in the native
+fashion--roasted underground by means of hot stones.
+
+Our coachman was becoming impatient, so we bade farewell to our host,
+and resumed our journey. We crossed innumerable streams on our way,
+generally full not only of water, but also of bathers; for the
+Tahitians are very fond of water, and always bathe once or twice a day
+in the fresh streams, even after having been in the sea.
+
+In many places along the road people were making hay from short grass,
+and in others they were weighing it preparatory to sending it into
+town. But they say the grass grown here is not at all nourishing for
+horses, and some people import it from Valparaiso.
+
+The road round the island is called the Broom Road. Convicts were
+employed in its original formation, and now it is the punishment for
+any one getting drunk in any part of the island to be set to work to
+sweep, repair, and keep in order a piece of the road in the
+neighbourhood of his dwelling. It is the one good road of Tahiti,
+encircling the larger of the two peninsulas close to the sea-shore,
+and surmounting the low mountain range in the centre of the isthmus.
+
+Before long we found ourselves close to Taravao, the narrow strip of
+land connecting the two peninsulas into which Tahiti is divided, and
+commenced to ascend the hills that form the backbone of the island. We
+climbed up and up, reaching the summit at last, to behold a
+magnificent prospect on all sides. Then a short sharp descent, a long
+drive over grass roads through a rich forest, and again a brief
+ascent, brought us to our sleeping-quarters for the night, the Hotel
+de l'Isthme, situated in a valley in the midst of a dense grove of
+cocoa-nuts and bananas, kept by two retired French sailors, who came
+out to meet us, and conducted us up a flight of steps on the side of a
+mud bank to the four rooms forming the hotel. These were two sleeping
+apartments, a _salon_, and a _salle à manger_, the walls of which
+consisted of flat pieces of wood, their own width apart, something
+like Venetian shutters, with unglazed windows and doors opening into
+the garden.
+
+We walked about four hundred yards along a grassy road to the sea,
+where Mabelle and I paddled about in shallow water and amused
+ourselves by picking up coral, shells, and _bêche-de-mer_, and
+watching the blue and yellow fish darting in and out among the rocks,
+until at last we found a place in the coral which made a capital
+deep-water bath. Dressing again was not such a pleasant affair, owing
+to the mosquitoes biting us in the most provoking manner. Afterwards
+we strolled along the shore, which was covered with cocoa-nuts and
+driftwood, washed thither, I suppose, from some of the adjacent
+islands, and on our way back to the hotel we gathered a handful of
+choice exotics and graceful ferns, with which to decorate the table.
+
+The dinner itself really deserves a detailed description, if only to
+show that one may make the tour of Tahiti without necessarily having
+to rough it in the matter of food. We had crayfish and salad as a
+preliminary, and next, an excellent soup followed by delicious little
+oysters, that cling to the boughs and roots of the guava and mangrove
+trees overhanging the sea. Then came a large fish, name unknown, the
+inevitable _bouilli_ and cabbage, _côtelettes aux pommes, biftek aux
+champignons_, succeeded by crabs and other shellfish, including
+_wurrali_, a delicate-flavoured kind of lobster, an _omelette aux
+abricots_, and dessert of tropical fruits. We were also supplied with
+good wine, both red and white, and bottled beer.
+
+I ought, in truth, to add that the cockroaches were rather lively and
+plentiful, but they did not form a serious drawback to our enjoyment.
+After dinner, however, when I went to see Mabelle to bed, hundreds of
+these creatures, about three inches long, and broad in proportion,
+scuttled away as I lighted the candle; and while we were sitting
+outside we could see troops of them marching up and down in rows
+between the crevices of the walls. Then there were the mosquitoes, who
+hummed and buzzed about us, and with whom, alas! we were doomed to
+make a closer acquaintance. Our bed was fitted with the very thickest
+calico mosquito curtains, impervious to the air, but not to the
+venomous little insects, who found their way in through every tiny
+opening in spite of all our efforts to exclude them.
+
+_Tuesday, December 5th_.--The heat in the night was suffocating, and
+soon after twelve o'clock we both woke up, feeling half-stifled. There
+was a dim light shining into the room, and Tom said, 'Thank goodness,
+it's getting daylight;' but on striking my repeater we found to our
+regret that this was a mistake. In the moonlight I could see columns
+of nasty brown cockroaches ascending the bedposts, crawling along the
+top of the curtains, dropping with a thud on to the bed, and then
+descending over the side to the ground. At last I could stand it no
+longer, and opening the curtains cautiously, I seized my slippers,
+knocked half-a-dozen brown beasts out of each, wrapped myself in a
+poncho--previously well shaken--gathered my garments around me,
+surmounted a barricade I had constructed overnight to keep the pigs
+and chickens out of our doorless room, and fled to the garden. All was
+still, the only sign of life being a light in a neighbouring hut, and
+I sat out in the open air in comparative comfort, until driven indoors
+again by torrents of rain, at about half-past two o'clock.
+
+I plunged into bed again, taking several mosquitoes with me, which
+hummed and buzzed and devoured us to their hearts' content till dawn.
+Then I got up and walked down to the beach to bathe, and returned to
+breakfast at six o'clock, refreshed but still disfigured.
+
+It is now the depth of winter and the middle of the rainy season in
+Tahiti; but, luckily for us, it is nearly always fine in the daytime.
+At night, however, there is often a perfect deluge, which floods the
+houses and gardens, turns the streams into torrents, but washes and
+refreshes the vegetation, and leaves the landscape brighter and
+greener than before.
+
+At half-past seven the horses were put to, and we were just ready for
+a start, when down came the rain again, more heavily than before. It
+was some little time before it ceased enough to allow us to start,
+driving along grassy roads and through forests, but progressing rather
+slowly, owing to the soaked condition of the ground. If you can
+imagine the Kew hot-houses magnified and multiplied to an indefinite
+extent, and laid out as a gentleman's park, traversed by numerous
+grassy roads fringed with cocoa-nut palms, and commanding occasional
+glimpses of sea, and beach, and coral reefs, you will have some faint
+idea of the scene through which our road lay.
+
+Many rivers we crossed, and many we stuck in, the gentlemen having
+more than once to take off their shoes and stockings, tuck up their
+trousers, jump into the water, and literally put their shoulders to
+the wheel. Sometimes we drove out into the shallow sea, till it seemed
+doubtful when and where we should make the land again. Sometimes we
+climbed up a solid road, blasted out of the face of the black cliffs,
+or crept along the shore of the tranquil lagoon, frightening the
+land-crabs into their holes as they felt the shake of the approaching
+carriage. Palms and passiflora abounded, the latter being specially
+magnificent. It seems wonderful how their thin steins can support, at
+a height of thirty or forty feet from the ground, the masses of huge
+orange-coloured fruit which depend in strings from their summits.
+
+At the third river, not far from where it fell into the sea, we
+thought it was time to lunch; so we stopped the carriage, gave the
+horses their provender, and sat down to enjoy ourselves after our long
+drive. It was early in the afternoon before we started again, and soon
+after this we were met by fresh horses, sent out from Papenoo;[10] so
+it was not long before we found ourselves near Point Venus, where we
+once more came upon a good piece of road, down which we rattled to the
+plains outside Papeete.
+
+[Footnote 10: From 'pape,' _water_, and 'noo,' _abundance_.]
+
+We reached the quay at about seven o'clock, and, our arrival having
+been observed, several friends came to see us and to inquire how we
+had fared. Before we started on our excursion, instructions had been
+given that the 'Sunbeam' should be painted _white_, for the sake of
+coolness, and we were all very curious to see how she would look in
+her new dress; but unfortunately the wet weather has delayed the work,
+and there is still a good deal to do.
+
+_Wednesday, December 6th_.--It was raining fast at half-past four this
+morning, which was rather provoking, as I wanted to take some
+photographs from the yacht's deck before the sea-breeze sprang up. But
+the weather cleared while I was choosing my position and fixing my
+camera, and I was enabled to take what I hope may prove to be some
+successful photographs.
+
+Messrs. Brander's mail-ship, a sailing vessel of about 600 tons, was
+to leave for San Francisco at eight o'clock, and at seven Tom started
+in the 'Flash' to take our letters on board. The passage to San
+Francisco occupies twenty-five days on an average, and is performed
+with great regularity once a month each way. The vessels employed on
+this line, three in number, are well built, and have good
+accommodation for passengers, and they generally carry a full cargo.
+In the present instance it consists of fungus and tripang
+(_bêche-de-mer_) for China, oranges for San Francisco, a good many
+packages of sundries, and a large consignment of pearls, entrusted to
+the captain at the last moment.
+
+So brisk is the trade carried on between Tahiti and the United States,
+that the cost of this vessel was more than covered by the freights the
+first year after she was built. In addition to these ships, there are
+those which run backwards and forwards to Valparaiso, and the little
+island trading schooners; so that the Tahitians can boast of quite a
+respectable fleet of vessels, not imposing perhaps in point of
+tonnage, but as smart and serviceable-looking as could be desired. The
+trading schooners are really beautiful little craft, and I am sure
+that, if well kept and properly manned, they would show to no
+discredit among our smart yachts at Cowes. Not a day passes without
+one or more entering or leaving the harbour, returning from or bound
+to the lonely isles with which the south-west portion of the Pacific
+is studded. They are provided with a patent log, but their captains,
+who are intelligent men, do not care much about a chronometer, as the
+distances to be run are comparatively short and are easily judged.
+
+Mr. Godeffroy gave us rather an amusing account of the manner in which
+their negotiations with the natives are conducted. The more civilised
+islanders have got beyond barter, and prefer hard cash in American
+dollars for their pearls, shells, cocoa-nuts, sandal-wood, &c. When
+they have received the money, they remain on deck for some time
+discussing their bargains among themselves. Then they peep down
+through the open skylights into the cabin below, where the most
+attractive prints and the gaudiest articles of apparel are temptingly
+displayed, alongside a few bottles of rum and brandy and a supply of
+tobacco. It is not long before the bait is swallowed; down go the
+natives, the goods are sold, and the dollars have once more found
+their way back into the captain's hands.
+
+I had a long talk with one of the natives, who arrived to-day from
+Flint Island--a most picturesque-looking individual, dressed in
+scarlet and orange-coloured flannel, and a mass of black, shiny, curly
+hair. Flint Island is a place whose existence has been disputed, it
+having been more than once searched for by ships in vain. It was,
+therefore, particularly interesting to meet some one who had actually
+visited, and had just returned from, the spot in question. That
+islands do occasionally disappear entirely in these parts there can be
+little doubt. The Tahitian schooners were formerly in the habit of
+trading with a small island close to Rarotonga, whose name I forget;
+but about four years ago, when proceeding thither with the usual
+three-monthly cargo of provisions, prints, &c., they failed to find
+the island, of which no trace has since been seen. Two missionaries
+from Rarotonga are believed to have been on it at the time of its
+disappearance, and to have shared its mysterious fate.
+
+_Thursday, December 7th_.--At eight o'clock I took Mabelle and Muriel
+for a drive in a pony-carriage which had been kindly lent me, but with
+a hint that the horse was rather _méchant_ sometimes. He behaved well
+on the present occasion, however, and we had a pleasant drive in the
+outskirts of the town for a couple of hours.
+
+Just as we returned, a gentleman came and asked me if I should like to
+see some remarkably fine pearls, and on my gladly consenting, he took
+me to his house, where I saw some pearls certainly worth going to look
+at, but too expensive for me, one pear-shaped gem alone having been
+valued at 1,000_l_. I was told they came from a neighbouring island,
+and I was given two shells containing pearls in various stages of
+formation.
+
+It was now time to go on board to receive some friends whom we had
+invited to breakfast, and who arrived at about half-past eleven.
+
+[Illustration: A Tahitian Lady.]
+
+After breakfast, and a chat, and an examination of the photograph
+books, &c., we all landed, and went to see Messrs. Brander's stores,
+where all sorts of requisites for fitting out ships and their crews
+can be procured. It is surprising to find how plentiful are the
+supplies of the necessaries and even the luxuries of civilised life in
+this far-away corner of the globe. You can even get _ice_ here, for
+the manufacture of which a retired English infantry officer has set up
+an establishment with great success. But what interested me most were
+the products of this and the neighbouring islands. There were tons of
+exquisitely tinted pearl shells, six or eight inches in diameter,
+formerly a valuable article of commerce, but now worth comparatively
+little. The pearls that came out of them had unfortunately been sent
+away to Liverpool--1,000_l_. worth by this morning's, and 5,000_l_ by
+the last mail-ship. Then there was vanilla, a most precarious crop,
+which needs to be carefully watered and shaded from the first moment
+it is planted, and which must be gathered before it is ripe, and dried
+and matured in a moist heat, between blankets and feather-beds, in
+order that the pods may not crack and allow the essence to escape. We
+saw also edible fungus, exported to San Francisco, and thence to Hong
+Kong, solely for the use of the Chinese; tripang, or _bêche-de-mer_, a
+sort of sea-slug or holothuria, which, either living or dead, fresh or
+dried, looks equally untempting, but is highly esteemed by the
+Celestials; coprah, or dried cocoa-nut kernels, broken into small
+pieces in order that they may stow better, and exported to England and
+other parts, where the oil is expressed and oil-cake formed; and
+various other articles of commerce. The trade of the island is fast
+increasing, the average invoice value of the exports having risen from
+8,400_l_ in 1845 to 98,000_l_ in 1874. These totals are exclusive of
+the value of the pearls, which would increase it by at least another
+3,000_l_ or 4,000_l_.
+
+I speak from personal experience when I say that every necessary of
+life on board ship, and many luxuries, can be procured at Tahiti.
+American tinned fruits and vegetables beat English ones hollow.
+Preserved milk is uncertain--sometimes better, sometimes worse, than
+what one buys at home. Tinned salmon is much better. Australian
+mutton, New Zealand beef, and South Sea pork, leave nothing to be
+desired in the way of preserved meat. Fresh beef, mutton, and butter
+are hardly procurable, and the latter, when preserved, is uneatable. I
+can never understand why they don't take to potting and salting down
+for export the _best_ butter, at some large Irish or Devonshire farm,
+instead of reserving that process for butter which is just on the turn
+and is already almost unfit to eat; the result being that, long before
+it has reached a hot climate, it is only fit to grease carriage-wheels
+with. It could be done, and I feel sure it would pay, as good butter
+would fetch almost any price in many places. Some Devonshire butter,
+which we brought with us from England, is as good now, after ten
+thousand miles in the tropics, as it was when first put on board; but
+a considerable proportion is very bad, and was evidently not in proper
+condition in the first instance.
+
+We had intended going afterwards to the coral reef with the children
+to have a picnic there, and had accordingly given the servants leave
+to go ashore for the evening; but it came on to rain heavily, and we
+were obliged to return to the yacht instead. The servants had,
+however, already availed themselves of the permission they had
+received, and there was therefore no one on board in their department;
+so we had to unpack our basket and have our picnic on deck, under the
+awning, instead of on the reef, which I think was almost as great a
+treat to the children.
+
+We have, I am sorry to say, had a good deal of trouble with some of
+our men here. One disappeared directly we arrived, and has never been
+seen since. Another came off suffering from delirium tremens and
+epileptic fits, brought on by drink. His cries and struggles were
+horrible to hear and witness. It took four strong men to hold him, and
+the doctor was up with him all last night. Nearly all the ships that
+come here have been at sea for a long time, and the men are simply
+wild when they get ashore. Some of the people know only too well how
+to take advantage of this state of things, and the consequence is that
+it is hardly safe for a sailor to drink a glass of grog, for fear that
+it should be drugged. No doubt there are respectable places to which
+the men could resort, but it is not easy for a stranger to find them
+out, and our men seem to have been particularly unfortunate in this
+respect. Tom talks of leaving two of them behind, and shipping four
+fresh hands, as our number is already rather short.
+
+_Friday, December 8th_.--I persuaded Tom to make another excursion to
+the coral reef this morning, and at five o'clock he and Mabelle and I
+set off in the 'Flash,' just as the sun was rising. We had a
+delightful row, past the Quarantine Island[11], to the portion of the
+reef on the other side of the harbour, where we had not yet been, and
+where I think the coral plants and flowers and bushes showed to
+greater advantage than ever, as they were less crowded, and the
+occasional patches of sandy bottom enabled one to see them better. We
+were so engrossed in our examination of these marvels of the deep, and
+of the fish with which the water abounded, that we found ourselves
+aground several times, and our return to the yacht was consequently
+delayed.
+
+[Footnote 11: The native name is 'Motu-iti,' i.e. _little island_.]
+
+After breakfast I had another visit from a man with war-cloaks,
+shell-belts, _tapa_, and _reva reva_, which he brought on board for my
+inspection. It was a difficult task to make him understand what I
+meant, but at last I thought I had succeeded in impressing on his mind
+the fact that I wished to buy them, and that they would be paid for at
+the store. The sequel unfortunately proved that I was mistaken. At
+nine o'clock we set out for the shore, and after landing drove along
+the same road by which we had returned from our excursion round the
+island.[12] After seeing as much of the place as our limited time
+would allow, we drove over to Faataua, where we found the children and
+maids. The grand piano, every table, and the drawing-room floor, were
+spread with the presents we were expected to take away with us. There
+were bunches of scarlet feathers, two or three hundred in number, from
+the tail of the tropic bird, which are only allowed to be possessed
+and worn by chiefs, and which are of great value, as each bird
+produces only two feathers; pearl shells, with corals growing on them,
+red coral from the islands on the Equator, curious sponges and
+sea-weed, _tapa_ cloth and _reva-reva_ fringe, arrowroot and palm-leaf
+hats, cocoa-nut drinking vessels, fine mats plaited in many patterns,
+and other specimens of the products of the island.
+
+[Footnote 12: We paid a brief visit to Point Venus, whence Captain
+Cook observed the transit of Venus on November 9th, 1769, and we saw
+the lighthouse and tamarind tree, which now mark the spot. The latter,
+from which we brought away some seed, was undoubtedly planted by
+Captain Cook with his own hand.]
+
+[Illustration: Tropic Feathers]
+
+All the members of the royal family at present in Tahiti had been
+invited to meet us, and arrived in due course, including the
+heir-apparent and his brother and sister. All the guests were dressed
+in the native costume, with wreaths on their heads and necks, and even
+the servants--including our own, whom I hardly recognised--were
+similarly decorated. Wreaths had also been prepared for us, three of
+fragrant yellow flowers for Mabelle, Muriel, and myself, and others of
+a different kind for the gentlemen.
+
+When the feast was ready the Prince offered me his arm, and we all
+walked in a procession to a grove of bananas in the garden through two
+lines of native servants, who, at a given signal, saluted us with
+three hearty English cheers. We then continued our walk till we
+arrived at a house, built in the native style, by the side of a rocky
+stream, like a Scotch burn. The uprights of the house were banana
+trees, transplanted with their leaves on, so as to shade the roof,
+which was formed of plaited cocoa-nut palm-leaves, each about fifteen
+feet long, laid transversely across bamboo rafters. From these
+light-green supports and the dark green roof depended the yellow and
+brown leaves of the _theve_, woven into graceful garlands and elegant
+festoons. The floor was covered with the finest mats, with black and
+white borders, and the centre strewn with broad green plantain leaves,
+to form the tablecloth, on which were laid baskets and dishes, made of
+leaves sewed together, and containing all sorts of native delicacies.
+There were oysters, lobsters, wurrali, and crawfish, stewed chicken,
+boiled sucking-pig, plantains, bread-fruit, melons, bananas, oranges,
+and strawberries. Before each guest was placed a half cocoa-nut full
+of salt water, another full of chopped cocoa-nut, a third full of
+fresh water, and another full of milk, two pieces of bamboo, a basket
+of _poi_, half a bread-fruit, and a platter of green leaves, the
+latter being changed with each course. We took our seats on the ground
+round the green table. An address was first delivered in the native
+language, grace was then said, and we commenced. The first operation
+was to mix the salt water and the chopped cocoa-nut together, so as to
+make an appetising sauce, into which we were supposed to dip each
+morsel we ate, the empty salt-water bowl being filled up with fresh
+water with which to wash our fingers and lips. We were tolerably
+successful in the use of our fingers as substitutes for knives and
+forks. The only drawback was that the dinner had to be eaten amid such
+a scene of novelty and beauty, that our attention was continually
+distracted: there was so much to admire, both in the house itself and
+outside it. After we had finished, all the servants sat down to
+dinner, and from a daïs at one end of the room we surveyed the bright
+and animated scene, the gentlemen--and some of the ladies
+too--meanwhile enjoying their cigarettes.
+
+When we got down to Papeete, at about half-past four, so many things
+had to be done that it seemed impossible to accomplish a start this
+evening. First of all the two Princes came on board, and were shown
+round, after which there were accounts to be paid, linen to be got on
+board; and various other preparations to be made. Presently it was
+discovered that the cloaks I had purchased--or thought I had
+purchased--this morning had not turned up, and that our saddles had
+been left at Faataua on Sunday and had been forgotten. The latter were
+immediately sent for, but although some one went on shore to look
+after the cloaks nothing could be heard of them; so I suppose I failed
+after all in making the man understand that he was to take them to the
+store and be paid for them there.
+
+[Illustration: Chætodon Besantii]
+
+At six o'clock the pilot sent word that it was no longer safe to go
+out; but steam was already up, and Tom therefore decided to go outside
+the reef and there wait for the people and goods that were still on
+shore. At this moment the saddles appeared in one direction, and the
+rest of the party in another. They were soon on board, the anchor was
+raised, and we began to steam slowly ahead, taking a last regretful
+look at Papeete as we left the harbour. By the time we were outside it
+was dark, the pilot went ashore, and we steamed full speed ahead.
+After dinner, and indeed until we went to bed, at half-past eleven,
+the lights along the shore were clearly visible, and the form of the
+high mountains behind could be distinguished.
+
+Good-bye, lovely Tahiti! I wonder if I shall ever see you again; it
+makes me quite sad to think how small is the chance of my doing so.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+TAHITI TO SANDWICH ISLANDS.--KILAUEA BY DAY AND BY NIGHT.
+
+    _Methinks it should have been impossible_
+    _Not to love all things in a world so filled,_
+    _Where the breeze warbles, and the mute still air_
+    _Is music, slumbering on her instrument._
+
+
+_Saturday, December 9th_.--After leaving the harbour of Papeete we
+passed close to the island of Eimeo, on which we have gazed so often
+and with so much pleasure during the past week. It is considered the
+most beautiful island of the Georgian group, and we all regretted that
+we were unable to spare the time to visit it. From afar it is rather
+like the dolomite mountains in the Tyrol, and it is said that the
+resemblance is even more striking on a near approach. The harbour is a
+long narrow gorge between high mountains, clothed with palms, oranges,
+and plantains, and is one of the most remarkable features of the
+place. Huahine is the island of which the Earl and the Doctor speak,
+in 'South Sea Bubbles,' in terms of such enthusiasm, and Rarotonga is
+the head and centre of all the missionary efforts of the present time
+in these parts.
+
+The weather to-day was fine, though we had occasional squalls of wind
+and rain. We were close-hauled, and the motion of the vessel was
+violent and disagreeable. I was very sea-sick, and was consoled to
+find that several of the men were so too. A head sea--or nearly so--is
+quite a novel experience for us of late, and we none of us like the
+change.
+
+_Sunday, December 10th_.--Another squally day. Still close-hauled,
+and even then not on our course. We had a short service at eleven, but
+it was as much as I could do to remain on deck.
+
+_Monday, December 11th_.--Very like yesterday. We passed close to
+Flint and Vostok Islands, at the former of which I should have much
+liked to land. But it was a good deal to leeward of us; there is no
+anchorage, and the landing, which is always difficult and sometimes
+impossible, has to be effected in native surf-boats. It would have
+been interesting to see a guano island, of which this is a perfect
+specimen.
+
+We had hoped to make the Caroline Islands before dark (not the
+Caroline Islands proper, but a group of low islets, whose position is
+very uncertainly indicated in the different charts and books); but the
+wind fell light, and as we could see nothing of them at sunset,
+although the view from the masthead extended at least fifteen miles in
+every direction, it was decided at eight o'clock to put the ship
+about, to insure not running on them or any of the surrounding reefs
+in the night. The currents run very swiftly between these islands, and
+it is impossible to tell your exact position, even a few hours after
+having taken an observation.
+
+_Tuesday, December 12th_.--The wind freshened immediately after we had
+changed our course last night, and fell light directly we had put
+about again this morning, so that it was fully 9 a.m. before we had
+regained our position of yesterday evening.
+
+Our compass-cards were getting worn out, and Tom gave out new ones
+before leaving Tahiti. I was very much amused to-night, when, as
+usual, just before going to bed, I went to have a look at the compass
+and see how the yacht was lying, and asked the man at the wheel what
+course he was steering. 'North and by west, half-east, ma'am,' he
+replied. 'That's a funny course,' I said; 'tell me again.' He
+repeated his statement; whereupon I remarked that the course was quite
+a new one to me. 'Oh, yes, ma'am,' he answered, 'but them's the new
+compass-cards.' This man is one of the best helmsmen in the ship, but
+certainly seems to be an indifferent scholar.
+
+_Friday, December 15th_.--We crossed the line at half-past four this
+morning. Father Neptune was to have paid us another visit in the
+evening, but the crew were busy, and there were some difficulties
+about arranging the details of the ceremony. The children were
+obliged, therefore, to be content with their usual game of drilling
+every one that they were able to muster for soldiers, after the
+fashion of Captain Brown's 'rifle practice,' or marching up and down
+the decks to the strains of Jem Butt's fiddle playing 'Tommy make room
+for your Uncle,' accompanied by the somewhat discordant noise of their
+own drums. These amusements after sunset, and scrubbing decks and
+working at the pumps before sunrise, give us all the much-needed
+exercise it is impossible to take in the heat of the daytime.
+
+[Illustration: Tattoo in the Tropics]
+
+_Saturday, December 16th_.--At 1.30 a.m. I was awoke by the strains
+of sweet music, and could not at first imagine where I could be, or
+whence the sounds came. It proved to be the performance of some
+'waits' on board. I do not know who originated the idea, but it was a
+very good one, and was excellently carried out. Everybody assembled on
+deck by degrees, and the songsters enjoyed a glass of grog when their
+labours were finished, after which we all went to bed again.
+
+It had fallen calm yesterday evening, and the funnel was raised at
+midnight, but the breeze sprang up again to-day, and at noon the fires
+were banked and the sails were set. Of course it then fell calm again,
+and at six o'clock we were once more proceeding under steam. There was
+one squall in the night, accompanied by the most tremendous rain I
+ever saw or heard. We talk of tropical rain in England, but the real
+thing is very different. It seemed just as if the bottom of an
+enormous cistern overhead had suddenly been removed, allowing the
+contents to fall exactly on the spot where we were. The water came
+down in sheets, and was soon three or four inches deep on the deck,
+though it was pouring out of the scuppers all the time as fast as
+possible.
+
+_Sunday, December 17th_.--A showery morning. We had Communion Service
+and hymns at eleven. In the afternoon it was too rough for 'church,'
+and Tom was unable to deliver his intended address to the men.
+
+_Monday, December 18th_.--We were close-hauled, with a strong
+north-east wind, and heavy squalls and showers at intervals. We saw
+several flying-fish and a good many birds, apparently hovering over a
+shoal of whales or grampuses. It is wonderful how little life we have
+seen on this portion of our voyage.
+
+_Tuesday, December 19th_.--A fine day--wind rather more fair--sea
+still rough and disagreeable. I tried to work hard all day, but found
+it very difficult.
+
+_Thursday, December 21st_.--Wind variable and baffling--sometimes
+calm, sometimes squally, sometimes a nice breeze. Sails were hoisted
+and lowered at least a dozen times, and fires were banked more than
+once.
+
+_Friday, December 22nd_.--At 6.30 a.m. we made the island of Hawaii,
+rather too much to leeward, as we had been carried by the strong
+current at least eighteen miles out of our course. We were therefore
+obliged to beat up to windward, in the course of which operation we
+passed a large barque running before the wind--the first ship we had
+seen since leaving Tahiti--and also a fine whale, blowing, close to
+us. We could not see the high land in the centre of the island, owing
+to the mist in which it was enveloped, and there was great excitement
+and much speculation on board as to the principal points which were
+visible. At noon the observations taken proved that Tom was right in
+his opinion as to our exact position. The wind dropped as we
+approached the coast, where we could see the heavy surf dashing
+against the black lava cliffs, rushing up the little creeks, and
+throwing its spray in huge fountain-like jets high above the tall
+cocoa-nut trees far inland.
+
+We sailed along close to the shore, and by two o'clock were near the
+entrance to the Bay of Hilo. In answer to our signal for a pilot a
+boat came off with a man who said he knew the entrance to the harbour,
+but informed us that the proper pilot had gone to Honolulu on a
+pleasure trip.
+
+It was a clear afternoon. The mountains, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa,
+could be plainly seen from top to bottom, their giant crests rising
+nearly 14,000 feet above our heads, their tree and fern clad slopes
+seamed with deep gulches or ravines, down each of which a fertilising
+river ran into the sea. Inside the reef, the white coral shore, on
+which the waves seemed too lazy to break, is fringed with a belt of
+cocoa-nut palms, amongst which, as well as on the hill-sides, the
+little white houses are prettily dotted. All are surrounded by
+gardens, so full of flowers that the bright patches of colour were
+plainly visible even from the deck of the yacht. The harbour is large,
+and is exposed only to one bad wind, which is most prevalent during
+the winter months. Still, with good ground-tackle, there is not much
+to be feared, and there is one particular spot, sheltered by the
+Blonde reef, which is almost always safe. Here, accordingly, we have
+taken up our station, though it is rather far from the town. Sometimes
+it is impossible to land at Hilo itself for days together, but there
+is fortunately a little creek behind Cocoa-nut Island which is always
+accessible.
+
+This afternoon the weather was all that could be desired, and at three
+o'clock we landed and went straight to Mr. Conway's store to make
+arrangements for going to the volcano of Kilauea to-morrow. Mr. Conway
+sent a man off at once on horseback to warn the people at the
+'Half-way House' and at 'Volcano House' to make preparations to
+receive our party--a necessary precaution, as visitors to the island
+are not numerous, and can only arrive by the monthly steamer from
+Honolulu.
+
+Having arranged this matter, we went for a stroll, among neat houses
+and pretty gardens, to the suspension-bridge over the river, followed
+by a crowd of girls, all decorated with wreaths and garlands, and
+wearing almost the same dress that we had seen at Tahiti--a coloured
+long-sleeved loose gown reaching to the feet. The natives here appear
+to affect duller colours than those we have lately been accustomed to,
+lilac, drab, brown, and other dark prints being the favourite tints.
+Whenever I stopped to look at a view, one of the girls would come
+behind me and throw a _lei_ of flowers over my head, fasten it round
+my neck, and then run away laughing, to a distance, to judge of
+effect. The consequence was that, before the end of our walk, I had
+about a dozen wreaths, of various colours and lengths, hanging round
+me, till I felt almost as if I had a fur tippet on, they made me so
+hot; and yet I did not like to take them off for fear of hurting the
+poor girls' feelings.
+
+We walked along the river bank, and crossed to the other side just
+below the rapids, jumping over the narrow channels through which the
+water hurried and rushed. Some of our attendant girls carried Muriel
+and the dogs, and, springing barefooted from rock to rock, led us
+across the stream and up the precipitous banks on the other side.
+There is a sort of hotel here, kept by a Chinaman, where everything is
+scrupulously clean, and the food good though plain. It is rather more
+like a lodging-house than an hotel, however. You hire your rooms, and
+are expected to make special arrangements for board. Before we got
+back to the yacht it had become dark, the moon had risen, and we could
+see the reflection in the sky of the fires in the crater of Kilauea. I
+do hope the volcano will be active to-morrow. It is never two days in
+the same condition, and visitors have frequently remained in the
+neighbourhood of the crater for a week without seeing an eruption.
+
+The starlit sky, the bright young moon, and the red cloud from
+Kilauea, floating far above our heads, made up a most beautiful scene
+from the deck of the 'Sunbeam.'
+
+_Saturday, December 23rd_.--The boatman who brought us off last night
+had told us that Saturday was market-day at Hilo, and that at five
+o'clock the natives would come in from the surrounding country in
+crowds to buy their Sunday and Christmas Day provisions, and to bring
+their own produce for sale. We accordingly gave orders that the boat
+should come for us at a quarter to five, shortly before which we got
+up and went on deck. We waited patiently in the dark until half-past
+five, when, no boat appearing from the shore, the dingy was manned and
+we landed. The lights in the town were all out, the day had hardly
+dawned, and there were no signs of life to be seen. At last we met two
+men, who told us we should find the market near the river, and offered
+to show us the way; but when we arrived at the spot they had indicated
+we found only a large butcher's shop, and were informed that the
+regular market for fish, fruit, and other things was held at five
+o'clock _in the afternoon_ instead of in the morning. We had thus had
+all our trouble for nothing, and the non-appearance of the boat was
+fully explained.
+
+Presently we met a friend who took us to his home. It was a pretty
+walk, by the side of the river and through numerous gardens, fresh
+with the morning dew. He gave us the latest news from the United
+States, and presented us with oranges and flowers, with which we
+returned to the yacht. We were on board again by seven, and, having
+packed up our things and sent them ashore, had an early breakfast, and
+landed, in readiness for our excursion to Kilauea. The baggage animals
+ought already to have started, but we found they had been kept back,
+in case we should happen to forget anything. Quite a crowd assembled
+to see us off, and a good deal of gossip had to be got through, so
+that it was half-past nine before we were all mounted and fairly off.
+
+The first part of our way lay along the flat ground, gay with bright
+scarlet Guernsey lilies, and shaded by cocoa-nut trees, between the
+town and the sea. Then we struck off to the right, and soon left the
+town behind us, emerging into the open country. At a distance from the
+sea, Hilo looks as green as the Emerald Isle itself; but on a closer
+inspection the grass turns out to be coarse and dry, and many of the
+trees look scrubby and half dead. Except in the 'gulches' and the deep
+holes between the hills, the island is covered with lava, in many
+places of so recent a deposit that it has not yet had time to
+decompose, and there is consequently only a thin layer of soil on its
+surface. This soil being, however, very rich, vegetation flourishes
+luxuriantly for a time; but as soon as the roots have penetrated a
+certain depth, and have come into contact with the lava, the trees
+wither up and perish, like the seed that fell on stony ground.
+
+The _ohia_ trees form a handsome feature in the landscape, with their
+thick tall stems, glossy foliage, and light crimson flowers. The fruit
+is a small pink waxy-looking apple, slightly acid, pleasant to the
+taste when you are thirsty. The candle-nut trees attain to a large
+size, and their light green foliage and white flowers have a very
+graceful appearance. Most of the foliage, however, is spoiled by a
+deposit of black dust, not unlike what one sees on the leaves in a
+London garden. I do not know whether this is caused by the fumes of
+the not far-distant volcano, or whether it is some kind of mould or
+fungus.
+
+After riding about ten miles in the blazing sun we reached a forest,
+where the vegetation was quite tropical, though not so varied in its
+beauties as that of Brazil, or of the still more lovely South Sea
+Islands. There were ferns of various descriptions in the forest, and
+many fine trees, entwined, supported, or suffocated by numerous
+climbing plants, amongst which were blue and lilac convolvulus, and
+magnificent passion-flowers. The protection from the sun afforded by
+this dense mass of foliage was extremely grateful; but the air of the
+forest was close and stifling, and at the end of five miles we were
+glad to emerge once more into the open. The rest of the way lay over
+the hard lava, through a sort of desert of scrubby vegetation,
+occasionally relieved by clumps of trees in hollows. More than once we
+had a fine view of the sea, stretching away into the far distance,
+though it was sometimes mistaken for the bright blue sky, until the
+surf could be seen breaking upon the black rocks, amid the encircling
+groves of cocoa-nut trees.
+
+The sun shone fiercely at intervals, and the rain came down several
+times in torrents. The pace was slow, the road was dull and dreary,
+and many were the inquiries made for the 'Half-way House,' long before
+we reached it. We had still two miles farther to go, in the course of
+which we were drenched by a heavy shower. At last we came to a native
+house, crowded with people, where they were making _tappa_ or
+_kapa_--the cloth made from the bark of the paper-mulberry. Here we
+stopped for a few minutes until our guide hurried us on, pointing out
+the church and the 'Half-way House' just ahead.
+
+We were indeed glad to dismount after our weary ride, and rest in the
+comfortable rocking-chairs under the verandah. It is a small white
+wooden building, overhung with orange-trees, with a pond full of ducks
+and geese outside it, and a few scattered outbuildings, including a
+cooking hut, close by. A good-looking man was busy broiling
+beef-steaks, stewing chickens, and boiling _taro_, and we had soon a
+plentiful repast set before us, with the very weakest of weak tea as a
+beverage. The woman of the house, which contained some finely worked
+mats and clean-looking beds, showed us some _tappa cloth_, together
+with the mallets and other instruments used in its manufacture, and a
+beautiful orange-coloured _lei_, or feather necklace, which she had
+made herself. The cloth and mallets were for sale, but no inducement
+would persuade her to part with the necklace. It was the first she had
+ever made, and I was afterwards told that the natives are
+superstitiously careful to preserve the first specimen of their
+handiwork, of whatever kind it may be.
+
+A woman dressed in a pink _holoku_ and a light green apron had
+followed us hither from the cottages we had first stopped at, and I
+noticed at the time that, though she was chatting and laughing with a
+female companion, she did not seem very well. Whilst we were at lunch
+a sudden increase to her family took place, and before we were ready
+to start I paid her and her infant a visit. She was then sitting up,
+apparently as well as ever, and seemed to look upon the recent event
+as a very light matter.
+
+Directly we had finished our meal--about three o'clock--the guide came
+and tried to persuade us that, as the baggage-mules had not yet
+arrived, it would be too late for us to go on to-day, and that we had
+better spend the night where we were, and start early in the morning.
+We did not, however, approve of this arrangement, so the horses were
+saddled, and, leaving word that the baggage-mules were to follow on as
+soon as possible, we mounted, and set off for the 'Volcano House.' We
+had not gone far before we were again overtaken by a shower, which
+once more drenched us to the skin.
+
+The scene was certainly one of extreme beauty. The moon was hidden by
+a cloud, and the prospect lighted only by the red glare of the
+volcano, which hovered before and above us like the Israelites' pillar
+of fire, giving us hopes of a splendid spectacle when we should at
+last reach the long-wished-for crater. Presently the moon shone forth
+again, and gleamed and glistened on the rain-drops and silver-grasses
+till they looked like fireflies and glowworms. At last, becoming
+impatient, we proceeded slowly on our way, until we met a man on
+horseback, who hailed us in a cheery voice with an unmistakable
+American accent. It was the landlord of the 'Volcano House,' Mr. Kane,
+who, fearing from the delay that we had met with some mishap, had
+started to look for us. He explained that he thought it was only his
+duty to look after and help ladies visiting the volcano, and added
+that he had intended going down as far as the 'Half-way House' in
+search of us. It was a great relief to know that we were in the right
+track, and I quite enjoyed the gallop through the dark forest, though
+there was barely sufficient light to enable me to discern the horse
+immediately in front of me. When we emerged from the wood, we found
+ourselves at the very edge of the old crater, the bed of which, three
+or four hundred feet beneath us, was surrounded by steep and in many
+places overhanging sides. It looked like an enormous cauldron, four or
+five miles in width, full of a mass of cooled pitch. In the centre was
+the still glowing stream of dark red lava, flowing slowly towards us,
+and in every direction were red-hot patches, and flames and smoke
+issuing from the ground. A bit of the 'black country' at night, with
+all the coal-heaps on fire, would give you some idea of the scene. Yet
+the first sensation is rather one of disappointment, as one expects
+greater activity on the part of the volcano; but the new crater was
+still to be seen, containing the lake of fire, with steep walls rising
+up in the midst of the sea of lava.
+
+Twenty minutes' hard riding brought us to the door of the 'Volcano
+House,' from which issued the comforting light of a large wood fire,
+reaching halfway up the chimney. Native garments replaced Mabelle's
+and my dripping habits, and we sat before the fire in luxury until the
+rest of the party arrived. After some delay supper was served, cooked
+by our host, and accompanied by excellent Bass's beer, no wine or
+spirits being procurable on the premises. Mr. Kane made many apologies
+for shortcomings, explaining that his cook had run away that morning,
+and that his wife was not able to do much to assist him, as her first
+baby was only a week old.
+
+Everything at this inn is most comfortable, though the style is rough
+and ready. The interior is just now decorated for Christmas, with
+wreaths, and evergreens, and ferns, and bunches of white plumes, not
+unlike _reva-reva_, made from the pith of the silver-grass. The beds
+and bedrooms are clean, but limited in number, there being only three
+of the latter altogether. The rooms are separated only by partitions
+of grass, seven feet high, so that there is plenty of ventilation, and
+the heat of the fire permeates the whole building. But you must not
+talk secrets in these dormitories or be too restless. I was amused to
+find, in the morning, that I had unconsciously poked my hand through
+the wall of our room during the night.
+
+The grandeur of the view in the direction of the volcano increased as
+the evening wore on. The fiery cloud above the present crater
+augmented in size and depth of colour; the extinct crater glowed red
+in thirty or forty different places; and clouds of white vapour
+issued from every crack and crevice in the ground, adding to the
+sulphurous smell with which the atmosphere was laden. Our room faced
+the volcano: there were no blinds, and I drew back the curtains and
+lay watching the splendid scene until I fell asleep.
+
+_Sunday, December 24th (Christmas Eve)_.--I was up at four o'clock, to
+gaze once more on the wondrous spectacle that lay before me. The
+molten lava still flowed in many places, the red cloud over the fiery
+lake was bright as ever, and steam was slowly ascending in every
+direction, over hill and valley, till, as the sun rose, it became
+difficult to distinguish clearly the sulphurous vapours from the
+morning mists. We walked down to the Sulphur Banks, about a quarter of
+a mile from the 'Volcano House,' and burnt our gloves and boots in our
+endeavours to procure crystals, the beauty of which generally
+disappeared after a very short exposure to the air. We succeeded,
+however, in finding a few good specimens, and, by wrapping them at
+once in paper and cotton-wool and putting them into a bottle, hope to
+bring them home uninjured.
+
+On our return we found a gentleman who had just arrived from Kau, and
+who proposed to join us in our expedition to the crater, and at three
+o'clock in the afternoon we set out, a party of eight, with two
+guides, and three porters to carry our wraps and provisions, and to
+bring back specimens. Before leaving the inn the landlord came to us
+and begged us in an earnest and confidential manner to be very
+careful, to do exactly what our guides told us, and especially to
+follow in their footsteps exactly when returning in the dark. He
+added, 'There never has been an accident happen to anybody from my
+house, and I should feel real mean if one did: but there have been a
+power of narrow escapes.'
+
+First of all we descended the precipice, 300 feet in depth, forming
+the wall of the old crater, but now thickly covered with vegetation.
+It is so steep in many places that flights of zig-zag wooden steps
+have been inserted in the face of the cliff in some places, in order
+to render the descent practicable. At the bottom we stepped straight
+on to the surface of cold boiled lava, which we had seen from above
+last night. Even here, in every crevice where a few grains of soil had
+collected, delicate little ferns might be seen struggling for life,
+and thrusting out their green fronds towards the light. It was the
+most extraordinary walk imaginable over that vast plain of lava,
+twisted and distorted into every conceivable shape and form, according
+to the temperature it had originally attained, and the rapidity with
+which it had cooled, its surface, like half-molten glass, cracking and
+breaking beneath our feet. Sometimes we came to a patch that looked
+like the contents of a pot, suddenly petrified in the act of boiling;
+sometimes the black iridescent lava had assumed the form of waves, or
+more frequently of huge masses of rope, twisted and coiled together;
+sometimes it was piled up like a collection of organ-pipes, or had
+gathered into mounds and cones of various dimensions. As we proceeded
+the lava became hotter and hotter, and from every crack arose gaseous
+fumes, affecting our noses and throats in a painful manner; till at
+last, when we had to pass to leeward of the molten stream flowing from
+the lake, the vapours almost choked us, and it was with difficulty we
+continued to advance. The lava was more glassy and transparent-looking,
+as if it had been fused at a higher temperature than usual; and the
+crystals of sulphur, alum, and other minerals, with which it abounded,
+reflected the light in bright prismatic colours. In places it was quite
+transparent, and we could see beneath it the long streaks of a stringy
+kind of lava, like brown spun glass, called 'Pélé's hair.'
+
+At last we reached the foot of the present crater, and commenced the
+ascent of the outer wall. Many times the thin crust gave way beneath
+our guide, and he had to retire quickly from the hot, blinding,
+choking fumes that immediately burst forth. But we succeeded in
+reaching the top; and then what a sight presented itself to our
+astonished eyes! I could neither speak nor move at first, but could
+only stand and gaze at the horrible grandeur of the scene.
+
+We were standing on the extreme edge of a precipice, overhanging a
+lake of molten fire, a hundred feet below us, and nearly a mile
+across. Dashing against the cliffs on the opposite side, with a noise
+like the roar of a stormy ocean, waves of blood-red, fiery, liquid
+lava hurled their billows upon an iron-bound headland, and then rushed
+up the face of the cliffs to toss their gory spray high in the air.
+The restless, heaving lake boiled and bubbled, never remaining the
+same for two minutes together. Its normal colour seemed to be a dull
+dark red, covered with a thin grey scum, which every moment and in
+every part swelled and cracked, and emitted fountains, cascades, and
+whirlpools of yellow and red fire, while sometimes one big golden
+river, sometimes four or five, flowed across it. There was an island
+on one side of the lake, which the fiery waves seemed to attack
+unceasingly with relentless fury, as if bent on hurling it from its
+base. On the other side was a large cavern, into which the burning
+mass rushed with a loud roar, breaking down in its impetuous headlong
+career the gigantic stalactites that overhung the mouth of the cave,
+and flinging up the liquid material for the formation of fresh ones.
+
+It was all terribly grand, magnificently sublime; but no words could
+adequately describe such a scene. The precipice on which we were
+standing overhung the crater so much that it was impossible to see
+what was going on immediately beneath; but from the columns of smoke
+and vapour that arose, the flames and sparks that constantly drove us
+back from the edge, it was easy to imagine that there must have been
+two or three grand fiery fountains below. As the sun set, and darkness
+enveloped the scene, it became more awful than ever. We retired a
+little way from the brink, to breathe some fresh air, and to try and
+eat the food we had brought with us; but this was an impossibility.
+Every instant a fresh explosion or glare made us jump up to survey the
+stupendous scene. The violent struggles of the lava to escape from its
+fiery bed, and the loud and awful noises by which they were at times
+accompanied, suggested the idea that some imprisoned monsters were
+trying to release themselves from their bondage, with shrieks and
+groans, and cries of agony and despair, at the futility of their
+efforts.
+
+Sometimes there were at least seven spots on the borders of the lake
+where the molten lava dashed up furiously against the rocks--seven
+fire-fountains playing simultaneously. With the increasing darkness
+the colours emitted by the glowing mass became more and more
+wonderful, varying from the deepest jet black to the palest grey, from
+darkest maroon, through cherry and scarlet, to the most delicate pink,
+violet, and blue; from the richest brown, through orange and yellow,
+to the lightest straw-colour. And there was yet another shade, only
+describable by the term 'molten-lava colour.' Even the smokes and
+vapours were rendered beautiful by their borrowed lights and tints,
+and the black peaks, pinnacles, and crags, which surrounded the
+amphitheatre, formed a splendid and appropriate background. Sometimes
+great pieces broke off and tumbled with a crash into the burning lake,
+only to be remelted and thrown up anew. I had for some time been
+feeling very hot and uncomfortable, and on looking round the cause was
+at once apparent. Not two inches beneath the surface, the grey lava on
+which we were standing and sitting was red-hot. A stick thrust through
+it caught fire, a piece of paper was immediately destroyed, and the
+gentlemen found the heat from the crevices so great that they could
+not approach near enough to light their pipes.
+
+One more long last look, and then we turned our faces away from the
+scene that had enthralled us for so many hours. The whole of the lava
+we had crossed, in the extinct crater, was now aglow in many patches,
+and in all directions flames were bursting forth, fresh lava was
+flowing, and steam and smoke were issuing from the surface. It was a
+toilsome journey back again, walking as we did in single file, and
+obeying the strict injunctions of our head guide to follow him
+closely, and to tread exactly in his footsteps. On the whole it was
+easier by night than by day to distinguish the route to be taken, as
+we could now see the dangers that before we could only feel; and many
+were the fiery crevices we stepped over or jumped across. Once I
+slipped, and my foot sank through the thin crust. Sparks issued from
+the ground, and the stick on which I leant caught fire before I could
+fairly recover myself.
+
+Either from the effects of the unaccustomed exercise after our long
+voyage, or from the intense excitement of the novel scene, combined
+with the gaseous exhalations from the lava, my strength began to fail,
+and before reaching the side of the crater I felt quite exhausted. I
+struggled on at short intervals, however, collapsing several times and
+fainting away twice; but at last I had fairly to give in, and to allow
+myself to be ignominiously carried up the steep precipice to the
+'Volcano House' on a chair, which the guides went to fetch for me.
+
+It was half-past eleven when we once more found ourselves beneath Mr.
+Kane's hospitable roof; he had expected us to return at nine o'clock,
+and was beginning to feel anxious about us.
+
+_Monday, December 25th (Christmas Day)_.--Turning in last night was
+the work of a very few minutes, and this morning I awoke perfectly
+refreshed and ready to appreciate anew the wonders of the prospect
+that met my eyes. The pillar of fire was still distinctly visible when
+I looked out from my window, though it was not so bright as when I
+had last seen it; but even as I looked it began to fade, and gradually
+disappeared. At the same moment a river of glowing lava issued from
+the side of the bank we had climbed with so much difficulty yesterday,
+and slowly but surely overflowed the ground we had walked over. I woke
+Tom, and you may imagine the feelings with which we gazed upon this
+startling phenomenon, which, had it occurred a few hours earlier,
+might have caused the destruction of the whole party. If our
+expedition had been made to-day instead of yesterday, we should
+certainly have had to proceed by a different route to the crater, and
+should have looked down on the lake of fire from a different spot.
+
+I cannot hope that in my attempt to give you some idea of Kilauea as
+we beheld it, I shall be successful in conveying more than a very
+faint impression of its glories. I feel that my description is so
+utterly inadequate, that, were it not for the space, I should be
+tempted to send you in full the experiences of previous visitors, as
+narrated in Miss Bird's 'Six Months in the Sandwich Islands,' and Mr.
+Bodham Whetham's 'Pearls of the Pacific.' The account contained in the
+former work I had read before arriving here; the latter I enjoyed at
+the 'Volcano House.' Both are well worth reading by any one who feels
+an interest in the subject.
+
+It would, I think, be difficult to imagine a more interesting and
+exciting mode of spending Christmas Eve than yesterday has taught us,
+or a stranger situation in which to exchange our Christmas greetings
+than beneath the grass roof of an inn on the edge of a volcano in the
+remote Sandwich Islands. They were certainly rendered none the less
+cordial and sincere by the novelty of our position, and I think we are
+all rather glad not to have in prospect the inevitable feastings and
+ceremonies, without which it seems to be impossible to commemorate
+this season in England. If we had seen nothing but Kilauea since we
+left home, we should have been well rewarded for our long voyage.
+
+At six o'clock we were dressed and packed. Breakfast followed at
+half-past, and at seven we were prepared for a start. Our kind, active
+host, and his wife and baby, all came out to see us off. The canter
+over the dewy grass, in the fresh morning air, was most invigorating.
+It was evident that no one had passed along the road since Saturday
+night, for we picked up several waifs and strays dropped in the dark
+on our way up--a whip, a stirrup, mackintosh hood, &c.
+
+By half-past ten we had reached the 'Half-way House,' where we were
+not expected so early, and where we had ample opportunity to observe
+the native ways of living, while waiting for our midday meal--an
+uninteresting mess of stewed fowl and _taro_, washed down with weak
+tea. After it was over I made an unsuccessful attempt to induce the
+woman of the house to part with her orange-coloured _lei_. I bought
+some _tappa_ and mallets, however, with some of the markers used in
+colouring the cloth, and a few gourds and calabashes, forming part of
+the household furniture. While the horses were being saddled
+preparatory to our departure, Mabelle and I went to another cottage
+close by, to see the mother of the baby that had been born while we
+were here on Saturday. She was not at home; but we afterwards found
+her playing cards with some of her friends in a neighbouring hut.
+Quite a large party of many natives were gathered together, not the
+least cheerful of whom was the young mother whose case had interested
+me so much.
+
+The rest of the ride down to Hilo was as dull and monotonous as our
+upward journey had been, although, in order to enable us to get over
+it as quickly as possible, fresh horses had been sent to meet us. At
+last we reached the pier, where we found the usual little crowd
+waiting to see us off. The girls who had followed us when we first
+landed came forward shyly when they thought they were unobserved, and
+again encircled me with _leis_ of gay and fragrant flowers. The custom
+of decorating themselves with wreaths on every possible occasion is in
+my eyes a charming one, and I like the inhabitants of Polynesia for
+their love of flowers. They are as necessary to them as the air they
+breathe, and I think the missionaries make a mistake in endeavouring
+to repress so innocent and natural a taste.
+
+The whole town was _en fête_ to-day. Natives were riding about in
+pairs, in the cleanest of bright cotton dresses and the freshest of
+_leis_ and garlands. Our own men from the yacht contributed not a
+little to the gaiety of the scene. They were all on shore, and the
+greater part of them were galloping about on horseback, tumbling off,
+scrambling on again, laughing, flirting, joking, and enjoying
+themselves generally after a fashion peculiar to English sailors. As
+far as we know the only evil result of all this merriment was that the
+doctor received a good many applications for diachylon plaster in the
+course of the evening, to repair various 'abrasions of the cuticle,'
+as he expressed it.
+
+I think at least half the population of Hilo had been on board the
+yacht in the course of the day, as a Christmas treat. At last we took
+a boat and went off too, accompanied by Mr. Lyman. The appearance of
+the 'Sunbeam' from the shore was very gay, and as we approached it
+became more festive still. All her masts were tipped with sugar-canes
+in bloom. Her stern was adorned with flowers, and in the arms of the
+figure-head was a large bouquet. She was surrounded with boats, the
+occupants of which cheered us heartily as we rowed alongside. The
+gangway was decorated with flowers, and surmounted by a triumphal
+arch, on which were inscribed 'Welcome Home,' 'A Merry Christmas,' 'A
+Happy New Year,' and other good wishes. The whole deck was festooned
+with tropical plants and flowers, and the decorations of the cabins
+were even more beautiful and elaborate. I believe all hands had been
+hard at work ever since we left to produce this wonderful effect, and
+every garden in Hilo had furnished a contribution to please and
+surprise us on our return.
+
+The choir from Hilo came out in boats in the evening, sang all sorts
+of songs, sacred and secular, and cheered everybody till they were
+hoarse. After this, having had a cold dinner, in order to save
+trouble, and having duly drunk the health of our friends at home, we
+all adjourned to the saloon, to assist in the distribution of some
+Christmas presents, a ceremony which afforded great delight to the
+children, and which was equally pleasing to the elder people and to
+the crew, if one may judge from their behaviour on the occasion.
+
+Then we sat on deck, gazing at the cloud of fire over Kilauea, and
+wondering if the appearance of the crater could ever be grander than
+it was last night, when we were standing on its brim.
+
+So ended Christmas Day, 1876, at Hilo, in Hawaii. God grant that there
+may be many more as pleasant for us in store in the future!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+HAWAIIAN SPORTS.
+
+    _In wrestling nimble, and in running swift,_
+    _In shooting steady, and in swimming strong,_
+    _Well made to strike, to leap, to throw, to lift,_
+    _And all the sports that shepherds are among._
+
+
+_Tuesday, December 26th_.--We went ashore at eight o'clock, after an
+early cup of coffee, and found Mr. Lyman already waiting for us. Two
+baggage-mules were sent off with the photographic apparatus, and all
+the materials for breakfast, to the Rainbow Falls, where the children
+are looking forward with intense glee to boiling their own kettle,
+poaching eggs, and trying other cooking experiments.
+
+Before setting out for the Falls ourselves, we went to see the
+national sport of surf-swimming, for their skill in which the
+Hawaiians are so justly famed.
+
+The natives have many other games of which they are very fond, and
+which they play with great skill, including spear-throwing,
+transfixing an object with a dart, _kona_, an elaborate kind of
+draughts, and _talu_, which consists in hiding a small stone under one
+of five pieces of cloth, placed in front of the players. One hides the
+stone, and the others have to guess where it is; and it generally
+happens that, however dexterously the hider may put his arm beneath
+the cloth, and dodge about from one piece to another, a clever player
+will be able to tell, by the movement of the muscles of the upper part
+of his arm, when his fingers relax their hold of the stone. Another
+game, called _parua_, is very like the Canadian sport of 'tobogging,'
+only that it is carried on on the grass instead of on the snow. The
+performers stand bolt upright on a narrow plank, turned up in front,
+and steered with a sort of long paddle. They go to the top of a hill
+or mountain, and rush down the steep, grassy, sunburnt slopes at a
+tremendous pace, keeping their balance in a wonderful manner. There is
+also a very popular amusement, called _pahé_, requiring a specially
+prepared smooth floor, along which the javelins of the players glide
+like snakes. On the same floor they also play at another game, called
+_maita_, or _uru maita_. Two sticks, only a few inches apart, are
+stuck into the ground, and at a distance of thirty or forty yards the
+players strive to throw a stone between them. The _uru_ which they use
+for the purpose is a hard circular stone, three or four inches in
+diameter, and an inch in thickness at the edge, but thicker in the
+middle.
+
+Mr. Ellis, in his 'Polynesian Researches,' states that 'these stones
+are finely polished, highly valued, and carefully preserved, being
+always oiled or wrapped up in native cloth after having been used. The
+people are, if possible, more fond of this game than of the _pahé_,
+and the inhabitants of a district not unfrequently challenge the
+people of the whole island, or the natives of one island those of all
+the others, to bring a man who shall try his skill with some favourite
+player of their own district or island. On such occasions seven or
+eight thousand people, men and women, with their chiefs and
+chiefesses, assemble to witness the sport, which, as well as the
+_pahé_, is often continued for hours together.'
+
+With bows and arrows they are as clever as all savages, and
+wonderfully good shots, attempting many wonderful feats. They are
+swift as deer, when they choose, though somewhat lazy and indolent.
+All the kings and chiefs have been special adepts in the invigorating
+pastime of surf-swimming, and the present king's sisters are
+considered first-rate hands at it. The performers begin by swimming
+out into the bay, and diving under the huge Pacific rollers, pushing
+their surf-boards--flat pieces of wood, about four feet long by two
+wide, pointed at each end--edgewise before them. For the return
+journey they select a large wave; and then, either sitting, kneeling,
+or standing on their boards, rush in shorewards with the speed of a
+racehorse, on the curling crest of the monster, enveloped in foarn and
+spray, and holding on, as it were, by the milk-white manes of their
+furious coursers. It looked a most enjoyable amusement, and I should
+think that, to a powerful swimmer, with plenty of pluck, the feat is
+not difficult of accomplishment. The natives here are almost
+amphibious. They played all sorts of tricks in the water, some of the
+performers being quite tiny boys. Four strong rowers took a whale-boat
+out into the worst surf, and then, steering her by means of a large
+oar, brought her safely back to the shore on the top of a huge wave.
+
+After the conclusion of this novel entertainment, we all proceeded on
+horseback to the Falls, Baby going in front of Tom, and Muriel riding
+with Mr. Freer. After a couple of miles we dismounted, and had a short
+walk through grass and ferns to a pretty double waterfall, tumbling
+over a cliff, about 100 feet high, into a glassy pool of the river
+beneath. It fell in front of a fern-filled black lava cavern, over
+which a rainbow generally hangs. As it was too wet to sit on the grass
+after the rain, we took possession of the verandah of a native house,
+commanding a fine view of the bay and town of Hilo. The hot coffee and
+eggs were a great success eventually, though the smoke from the wood
+fire nearly suffocated us in the process of cooking. Excellent also
+was some grey mullet, brought to us alive, and cooked native
+fashion,--wrapped up in _ti_ leaves, and put into a hole in the
+ground.
+
+After taking a few photographs it was time to return; and we next went
+to a pretty garden, which we had seen on the night of our arrival,
+and, tying up our horses outside, walked across it to the banks of the
+river. Here we found a large party assembled, watching half the
+population of Hilo disporting themselves in, upon, and beneath the
+water. They climbed the almost perpendicular rocks on the opposite
+side of the stream, took headers, and footers, and siders from any
+height under five-and-twenty feet, dived, swam in every conceivable
+attitude, and without any apparent exertion, deep under the water, or
+upon its surface. But all this was only a preparation for the special
+sight we had come to see. Two natives were to jump from a precipice,
+100 feet high, into the river below, clearing on their way a rock
+which projected some twenty feet from the face of the cliff, at about
+the same distance from the summit. The two men, tall, strong, and
+sinewy, suddenly appeared against the sky-line, far above our heads,
+their long hair bound back by a wreath of leaves and flowers, while
+another garland encircled their waists. Having measured their distance
+with an eagle's glance, they disappeared from our sight, in order to
+take a run and acquire the necessary impetus. Every breath was held
+for a moment, till one of the men reappeared, took a bound from the
+edge of the rock, turned over in mid-air, and disappeared feet
+foremost into the pool beneath, to emerge almost immediately, and to
+climb the sunny bank as quietly as if he had done nothing very
+wonderful. His companion followed, and then the two clambered up to
+the twenty-feet projection, to clear which they had had to take such a
+run the first time, and once more plunged into the pool below. The
+feat was of course an easier one than the first; but still a leap of
+eighty feet is no light matter. A third native, who joined them in
+this exploit, gave one quite a turn as he twisted in his downward
+jump; but he also alighted in the water feet foremost, and bobbed up
+again directly, like a cork. He was quite a young man, and we
+afterwards heard that he had broken several ribs not more than a year
+ago, and had been laid up for six months in the hospital.
+
+We now moved our position a little higher up the river, to the Falls,
+over which the men, gliding down the shallow rapids above, in a
+sitting posture, allowed themselves to be carried. It looked a
+pleasant and easy feat, and was afterwards performed by many of the
+natives in all sorts of ways. Two or three of them would hold each
+other's shoulders, forming a child's train, or some would get on the
+backs of their companions, while others descended singly in a variety
+of attitudes. At last a young girl was also persuaded to attempt the
+feat. She looked very pretty as she started, in her white chemise and
+bright garland, and prettier still when she emerged from the white
+foam beneath the fall, and swam along far below the surface of the
+clear water, with her long black hair streaming out behind her.
+
+No description can give you any idea what an animated and
+extraordinary scene it was altogether. While our accounts were being
+settled, preparatory to our departure, I occupied myself in looking at
+some _kahilis_ and feather _leis._ The yellow ones, either of Oo or
+Mamo feathers, only found in this island, are always scarce, as the
+use of them is a prerogative of royalty and nobility. Just now it is
+almost impossible to obtain one, all the feathers being '_tabu_,' to
+make a royal cloak for Ruth, half-sister of Kamehameha V., and
+governess of Hawaii. Mamo feathers are generally worth a dollar a
+piece, and a good _lei_ or loose necklace costs about five hundred
+dollars. _Kahilis_ are also an emblem of rank, though many people use
+them as ornaments in their houses. They are rather like
+feather-brooms, two or three feet long, and three or four inches
+across, made of all sorts of feathers, tastefully interwoven. I bought
+one, and a couple of ordinary _leis_, which were all I could procure.
+But, alas! too soon all was over, and time for us to go on board.
+
+[Illustration: Feather Necklace]
+
+On our way off to the yacht we met one of the large double canoes
+coming in under sail from a neighbouring island. It consisted of two
+canoes lashed together, with a sort of basket dropped into the water
+between them, to enable them to carry their fish alive. They are not
+very common now, and we were therefore fortunate in meeting with one.
+Mr. Lyman made the men in charge turn her round, so as to afford us an
+opportunity of thoroughly examining her. In the time of Kamehameha
+there was a fleet of 10,000 of these canoes, and the king used to send
+them out in the roughest weather, and make them perform all sorts of
+manoeuvres.
+
+We found the yacht in the usual state of confusion incidental to a
+fresh departure, but everything was soon reduced to order, and off we
+started to steam and sail round the north end of the island, but we
+could not afford time to visit the place of Captain Cook's death and
+burial in Keelakeakua Bay. I believe there is not a great deal to see,
+however, and the spot is chiefly interesting from its associations.
+For many years a copper plate, fixed to a cocoa-nut tree, marked the
+spot where Cook fell, but this has now been replaced by a monument,
+the cost of which was defrayed by subscriptions at Honolulu. Maui is,
+I believe, a charming place, containing many fine plantations, and
+several gentlemen's estates, laid out in the English style.
+Unfortunately, time forbids our accepting some invitations we have
+received to visit the island, where a great many interesting
+excursions may be made.
+
+At Kahoolaue there does not seem much to be seen. It was purchased
+some years ago, and pays well as a sheep-run. Lauai, the next island,
+is scarcely inhabited, and its scenery is not remarkable.
+
+A sad interest attaches to the island of Molokai, which is situated
+midway between Maui and Oahu. It is the leper settlement, and to it
+all the victims of this terrible, loathsome, and incurable disease,
+unhappily so prevalent in the Hawaiian archipelago, are sent, in order
+to prevent the spread of the contagion. They are well cared for and
+looked after in every way; but their life, separated as they
+inevitably are from all they hold most dear, and with no prospect
+before them but that of a slow and cruel death, must indeed be a
+miserable one. In Molokai there are many tiny children, fatherless and
+motherless, parents without children, husbands without wives, wives
+without husbands, 'all condemned.' as Miss Bird says, 'to watch the
+repulsive steps by which each of their doomed fellows goes down to a
+loathsome death, knowing that by the same they too must pass.' A
+French priest has nobly devoted himself to the religious and secular
+instruction of the lepers, and up to the present time has enjoyed
+complete immunity from the disease; but even if he escapes this
+danger, he can _never_ return to his country and friends. When one
+thinks what that implies, and to what a death in life he has condemned
+himself for the sake of others, it seems impossible to doubt that he
+will indeed reap a rich reward hereafter.
+
+At two o'clock we saw Diamond Head, the easternmost headland of Oahu,
+rising from the sea. By four o'clock we were abreast of it, and
+steaming along the coast. The cape itself rises grandly from the midst
+of a grove of cocoa-nuts, and the shore all along, with the sharp high
+mountains of the Pali as a background, is fine and picturesque. A
+coral reef stretches far into the sea, and outside this we lay waiting
+for a pilot to take us into Honolulu Harbour.
+
+It was a long business mooring us by hawsers, from our stem and stern,
+but we were at last safely secured in a convenient place, a short
+distance from the shore, and where we should be refreshed by the sea
+breeze and the land breeze alternately. It was six o'clock, and nearly
+dark, when we reached the shore; the town seemed entirely deserted;
+all the little wooden houses were shut up, and there were no lights
+visible. The post-office was closed, but it was a terrible blow to
+hear there were no letters for us, though we still hoped that there
+might be some at the British Consulate.
+
+After a short time we returned on board the yacht in time for a late
+dinner. The first lieutenant of H.M.S. 'Fantôme' came on board to pay
+us a visit during the evening, and told us all the latest English and
+American news, lending us some files of English papers--a great treat,
+but no compensation for our disappointment about the letters.
+
+_Thursday, December 28th_.--Tom and I went ashore at seven o'clock to
+make arrangements for repairing our mizen-sail. We soon found a
+sailmaker, who promised to set all hands to work and complete the job
+as quickly as possible. Being detained by a heavy shower of rain, we
+occupied the time in a gossip about Honolulu and its sayings and
+doings. When the shower was over, we walked through the town, which is
+clean and tidy, being laid out in squares, after the American style.
+The houses are all of wood, and generally have verandahs overhanging
+the street. They are seldom more than one story high, and nearly all
+have a little greenery about them.
+
+We returned to the yacht for breakfast, and, having heard that no
+sharks ever came into the long, narrow bay, were able to enjoy, in
+perfect peace of mind, the luxury of a bath overboard. It is a great
+pity that in the tropics, where bathing is such a delightful
+occupation, and where one might swim and paddle about for hours
+without fear of getting cold, it is often impossible even to enter the
+water for fear of the sharks. The natives are such expert swimmers
+that they do not seem to think much of this danger. As the shark turns
+on his back to take a bite at them, they dive underneath him, and he
+snaps his jaws on emptiness. In fact, sometimes the swimmer will take
+advantage of the opportunity to stab his enemy as he passes beneath
+him.
+
+Scarcely was breakfast over when we were inundated with visitors, who
+kindly came to see what they could do for us to make our stay
+agreeable. We lunched on shore, and afterwards went to the new
+Government buildings and museum. From thence we strolled to the
+various shops where 'curios' and photographs are to be bought, and
+collected a goodly store, returning on board the yacht to find more
+visitors.
+
+[Illustration: War Necklace[13]]
+
+[Footnote 13: The accompanying sketch is from a necklace that belonged
+to King Kamehameha I., and was given to me by one of his descendants.]
+
+We lunched on shore, and afterwards went with Mr. Chambré,
+navigating-lieutenant of the 'Fantôme,' to the new Government
+buildings. There we found an excellent English library, and an
+interesting collection of books printed in English and Hawaiian, on
+alternate pages, including alphabets, grammars, the old familiar
+nursery tales, &c. There is also a good, though small museum,
+containing specimens of beautiful corals, shells, seaweeds, and
+fossils; all the ancient native weapons, such as bows, arrows, swords,
+and spears--now, alas! no longer procurable--sling-stones, and stones
+used in games, back-scratchers, hair-ornaments made of sharks' teeth,
+tortoise-shell cups and spoons, calabashes and bowls. There were some
+most interesting though somewhat horrible necklaces made of hundreds
+of braids of human hair cut from the heads of victims slain by the
+chiefs themselves; from these braids was suspended a monstrous hook
+carved from a large whale's tooth, called a Paloola, regarded by the
+natives as a sort of idol. There are models of ancient and modern
+canoes--the difference between which is not very great,--paddles,
+inlaid with mother-of-pearl, old war-masks, and dresses still in use
+in the less frequented islands, anklets of human teeth, and many other
+things far too numerous to mention. The most interesting of all were,
+perhaps, the old feather war cloaks, like the ancient _togas_ of the
+Romans. They are made of thousands of yellow, red, and black feathers,
+of the _oo, niamo,_ and _eine_, taken singly and fastened into a sort
+of network of string, so as to form a solid fabric, like the richest
+velvet or plush, that glitters like gold in the sunlight. The helmets,
+made of the same feathers, but worked on to a frame of perfect Grecian
+shape, similar to those seen in the oldest statuary or on the Elgin
+marbles, are even more artistic and elegant. Whence came the idea and
+design? Untutored savages could scarcely have evolved them out of
+their own heads. Some element of civilisation, and of highly artistic
+civilisation too, must surely have existed among them at some remote
+period of their history.
+
+[Illustration: Ancient War Masks and Costumes from the Museum at
+Honolulu]
+
+_Friday, December 29th_.--We had a bathe overboard early this morning.
+The children were ashore at half-past nine, to go and spend the day at
+a friend's, at the top of the Nuuanu Avenue, on the road to the Pali.
+
+The King's two sisters came to call on us in the morning with their
+respective husbands. We had a great many visitors all the morning,
+till it was time to go to lunch; after which we went to call on the
+Princess Likelike, who drove me to Waikiki, to see her sister, the
+Princess Kamakaeha, at her country residence, a very large native
+grass house, with an enormous verandah. Both ladies are married to
+Englishmen, and live partly in English style. Inside there is a
+spacious drawing-room, well furnished, with pictures and nick-nacks,
+where we spent a pleasant half-hour in the gloaming. The sunset, over
+Diamond Head, and the sea, which was just visible through the
+cocoa-nut trees, was splendid. Both the Princesses were as kind as
+they could be. The royal family have formed quite a little colony
+here. The King's house is next door, and that of the Prince Leleiohoku
+is not far off. They all come here in the most unpretending way
+possible, and amuse themselves by fishing and bathing.
+
+It had been quite dark for some time, when the Princess Likelike
+dropped me at the hotel at half-past seven, where I found Tom and Mr.
+Freer waiting for me. We had a quiet dinner, and then went for a
+stroll. It was a fine clear night, with an almost full moon. The
+streets were full of equestrians, riding about in pairs, for there was
+to be a great riding party up to the Pali to-night, the _rendezvous_
+for which was in Emma Square. Every lady had to select and bring with
+her an attendant cavalier.[14]
+
+[Footnote 14: The event was thus announced in the 'Hawaiian
+Gazette:'--'THE LAST CHANCE.--We are informed that a riding party will
+come off on Friday evening, when all the young ladies who desire to
+participate are expected to be on hand, each with the cavalier whom
+she may invite. As leap-year is drawing to a close it is expected that
+this opportunity will be extensively embraced. Place of rendezvous,
+Emma Square: time, seven-thirty; Luminary for the occasion, a full
+moon.']
+
+There are no side-saddles in any of these islands; all the ladies
+ride like men, and sit their horses very well. They wear long
+riding-dresses, cleverly and elegantly adapted to the exigencies of
+the situation, generally of some light material, and of _very_ bright
+colours. The effect of a large party galloping along, with wreaths and
+garlands in their hats and necks, and with their long skirts floating
+in the wind, is therefore picturesque and strange in the extreme.
+
+_Saturday, December 30th_.--Mabelle, Muriel, and I, were up early, and
+went off to the coral-reef before seven in the 'Flash.' It is very
+beautiful, but not so fine as those we have already seen at Tahiti and
+other South Sea Islands. We collected four or the distinct varieties
+of coral, and saw many marvellous creatures swimming about or sticking
+to the rocks. There were several canoes full of natives fishing, who
+appeared highly amused when we ran aground on a coral tree, as
+happened more than once. It was a pleasant way of spending the early
+morning in the bright sunshine, peering into the dark blue and light
+green depths below.
+
+Breakfast was ready by the time we returned on board, and soon
+afterwards I went on shore to pay some visits and to do some shopping.
+We went first to the fish-market, which presented a most animated
+scene, owing not only to the abundance of the dead produce of air,
+earth, and sea, which it contained, but to the large number of gaily
+attired purchasers.
+
+Saturday is a half-holiday in Oahu, and all the plantation and mill
+hands came galloping into Honolulu on horseback, chattering and
+laughing, dressed in the brightest colours, and covered with flowers.
+The latter are not so plentiful nor so beautiful as in Tahiti, but
+still, to our English eyes, they appear very choice. For fruit, too,
+we have been spoilt in the South Seas. The fish-market here, however,
+is unrivalled.
+
+Fish--raw or cooked--is the staple food of the inhabitants, and almost
+everybody we saw had half-a-dozen or more brilliant members of the
+finny tribe, wrapped up in fresh green banana leaves, ready to carry
+home. Shrimps are abundant and good. They are caught both in salt and
+fresh water, and the natives generally eat them alive, putting them
+into their mouths, ana either letting them hop down their throats, or
+crushing them between their teeth while they are still wriggling
+about. It looks a very nasty thing to do, but, after all, it is not
+much worse than our eating oysters alive.
+
+[Illustration: Chalcedon Imperator.]
+
+From the fish-market we went to the prison, a large and apparently
+admirably managed establishment, built of stone, and overlooking the
+harbour. After a pleasant drive along shady fragrant roads, we
+returned to Emma Square, to hear the excellent performance of the
+Saturday afternoon band. There was a good assemblage of people, on
+horseback, in carriages, and on foot, and crowds of children, all more
+or less white, languid, and sickly-looking. Poor mites! I suppose the
+climate is too hot for European constitutions. Still, they abound
+among the foreigners, while the natives are gradually, but surely,
+dying out. Among the whole royal family there is only one child, a
+dear little girl of rather more than a year old. Princess Kauilani
+('Sent from Heaven') she is always called, though she has a very long
+string of additional names. She is heiress-presumptive to the throne,
+and is thought a good deal of by everybody. Among twenty of the
+highest chiefs' families there is only one baby. On the other hand,
+all the foreign consuls, ministers, missionaries, and other white
+residents, appear to have an average of at least half a dozen in each
+family.
+
+After the performance was over, we walked to the Princess Likelike's
+house, where we were entertained at a _poi_ supper. The garden was
+illuminated, the band played and a choir sang alternately, while
+everybody sat out in the verandah, or strolled about the garden, or
+did what they liked best. Prince Leleiohoku took me in to supper,
+which was served in the native fashion, in calabashes and on leaves,
+laid on mats on the floor, in the same manner as the feast at Tahiti.
+The walls of the dining-room were made of palm-leaves and bananas, and
+the roof was composed of the standards of the various members of the
+royal family, gracefully draped. At one end of the long table, where
+the Prince and I sat, there was his special royal standard, as
+heir-apparent, and just behind us were stationed a couple of women,
+with two large and handsome _kahilis_, which they waved incessantly
+backwards and forwards. The viands were much the same as at
+Tahiti--raw seaweed, which was eaten with each mouthful, being
+substituted for the chopped cocoa-nut and salt-water. The carved _koa_
+bowls, which were in constant requisition as finger-glasses, were
+specially elegant and useful-looking articles. _Poi_ is generally
+eaten from a bowl placed between two people, by dipping three fingers
+into it, giving them a twirl round, and then sucking them. It sounds
+rather nasty; but, as a matter of fact, it is so glutinous a mixture
+that you really only touch the particles that stick to your fingers.
+The latter you wash after each mouthful, so that there is nothing so
+very dreadful about it after all. There was a quantity of raw fish,
+which I did not touch, but which some of our party thought most
+excellent, besides dried and cooked fish, which seemed very good,
+fried candle-nuts, baked pig, and many other delicacies. We could get
+however, nothing to drink. After supper, we returned to the house,
+where we found an abundance of champagne and other wines, cakes, and
+biscuits.
+
+About twelve o'clock we thought it was time to say good-bye, as it was
+Saturday night. Beneath a brilliant full moon the drive to the wharf
+and row off in the boat were delightful.
+
+_Sunday, December 31st_.--I was on deck at six o'clock, and saw what I
+had often heard about--a team of twenty oxen, driven by a man in a
+cart, drawing by means of a rope, about a quarter of a mile in length,
+a large ship through the opening in the reef, the man and cattle being
+upon the coral.[15]
+
+[Footnote 15: The following notice appeared in the _Hawaiian Gazette_
+recently: 'TO BE REPAIRED.--That staunch little craft the "Pele,"
+which Capt. Brown has for so long a time successfully commanded, is
+now being hauled up for the purpose of repairs. She will probably be
+laid up for six or eight weeks, and in the meantime the antique plan
+of towing vessels in and out of the harbour with teams of oxen on the
+reef will be resumed.']
+
+About half-past eight Mabelle and I were just going overboard for a
+swim, when I thought I saw the upper fin of an old familiar enemy, and
+directly afterwards the cry was echoed all over the ship, 'A shark, a
+shark!' It was a ground shark, and very nearly aground in the shallow
+water. They say this is the worst kind of all, and on making inquiry I
+was told that the safest way to enjoy a dip here is to bathe with a
+number of other people. The splashing and noise made by a whole ship's
+company frighten the sharks away. This discovery puts an end therefore
+to our hopes of enjoying an occasional peaceful bath.
+
+We went to eleven o'clock service at the cathedral. It is a pleasant
+small building, beautifully cool, and well adapted to this climate.
+The Bishop was unfortunately away, but the service was well performed.
+
+Later, Tom read the evening service to the men, and we afterwards
+landed and dined late at the hotel; so late, indeed, that we could
+hardly get anything to eat, and they began to shut up the room and put
+out the lights before we had half done. Luckily, we were a large
+party, and an indignant protest and threatened appeal to the landlord
+brought the Chinese waiters to their senses, and induced them to grant
+us half an hour's law. On our way back to the boat, the streets looked
+much more lively than they had hitherto done, being full of people
+returning from rides, drives, and excursions into the country. As a
+rule, directly after dark not a creature is to be seen about the
+streets, for every one disappears in the most mysterious manner.
+
+We went on board, and sat in the calm moonlight, thinking and talking
+over the events of the year, whose end was so swiftly approaching, and
+wondering what its successor may have in store for us. So ends, with
+all its joys and sorrows, its pleasures and pains, its hopes and
+fears, for us, the now old year, 1876.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+
+HONOLULU--DEPARTURE FOR JAPAN.
+
+    _Years following years, steal something every day;_
+    _At last they steal us from ourselves away._
+
+
+_Monday, January 1st, 1877_.--At midnight we were awakened by our
+ship's bell, and that of the 'Fantôme,' being struck violently sixteen
+times. For the moment I could not imagine what it meant, and thought
+it must be an alarm of fire; indeed, it was not until Tom and I
+reached the deck, where we found nearly all the ship's company
+assembled at the top of the companion, and were greeted with wishes
+for 'A happy New Year, and many of them,' that we quite realised that
+nothing serious was the matter. Soon the strains of sweet music,
+proceeding from the Honolulu choirs, which had come out in boats to
+serenade us, fell upon our ears The choristers remained alongside for
+more than an hour, singing English and American sacred and secular
+hymns and songs, and then went off to the 'Fantôme,' where they
+repeated the performance. The moon shone brightly; not a ripple
+disturbed the surface of the water; the cocoa-trees at Waikiki, and
+the distant mountains near the Pali, were all clearly defined against
+the dark blue sky. It was altogether a romantic and delicious scene,
+and we found it difficult to tear ourselves away from the sweet sounds
+which came floating over the sea.
+
+When I again went on deck, at half-past six, there was a large double
+canoe close to the yacht, crowded with people. It was difficult to
+make out what they were doing, for they appeared to be sitting on a
+great heap of something, piled up between the two canoes. Our sailors
+suggested that it must be 'some sort of a New Year's set out.' I
+ordered the 'Flash' to be got ready, and went with the children to
+make a closer investigation; and, as we approached, we could see that
+the pile that had puzzled us was a huge fishing-net. The tide here is
+very uncertain; but as soon as the water is low enough, they stretch
+the long net right across the narrow mouth of the harbour, and so
+secure an enormous quantity of fish of various kinds. It was a really
+good New Year's haul, and provided a hearty meal for a great many
+people.
+
+Mabelle and I went at twelve o'clock to the Queen's New Year's
+reception, held in the other wing of the palace. Having driven through
+the pretty gardens, we were received at the entrance by the Governor,
+and ushered through two reception rooms into the royal presence. The
+Queen was dressed in a European court-dress, of blue and white
+material, with the Hawaiian Order of the Garter across her breast. Two
+maids of honour were also in court-dress. Of the other ladies, some
+were in evening, some in morning dress, some with bonnets and some
+without; but their costumes were all made according to the European
+fashion, except that of her Highness Ruth, the Governess of Hawaii,
+who looked wonderfully well in a rich white silk native dress, trimmed
+with white satin. She had a necklace of orange-coloured _oo_ feathers
+round her neck, and dark yellow alamanda flowers in her hair. This
+native costume is a most becoming style of dress, especially to the
+chiefs and chiefesses, who are all remarkably tall and handsome, with
+a stately carriage and dignified manner. The Queen stood in front of
+the throne, on which were spread the royal robes, a long mantle of
+golden feathers, without speck or blemish. On each side stood two men,
+dressed in black, wearing frock-coats, and capes of red, black, and
+yellow feathers over their shoulders, and chimney-pot hats on their
+heads. In their hands they held two enormous _kahilis_ of black _oo_
+feathers, with handsome tortoise-shell and ivory handles. They were at
+least eight feet high altogether, and the feathers were about six
+inches across.
+
+The Princess presented Mabelle and me to her Majesty, and we had a
+short conversation through a lady interpreter. It is always an
+embarrassing thing to carry on a conversation in this way, especially
+when you find yourself in the midst of a square formed by a large
+crowd of ladies, who you fancy are all gazing at you, the one stranger
+present, and I was glad when fresh people arrived, and her Majesty's
+attention was claimed elsewhere.
+
+Queen Kapiolani is a nice-looking woman, with a very pleasing
+expression of countenance. She is the granddaughter of the heroic
+Princess Kapiolani, who, when the worship and fear of the goddess Pélé
+were at their height, walked boldly up to the crater of Kilauea, in
+defiance of the warnings and threats of the high-priestess of the
+idolatrous rites, proclaiming her confidence in the power of her God,
+the God of the Christians, to preserve her. This act did much to
+assist in the establishment of Christianity in the Island of Hawaii,
+and to shake the belief of the native worshippers of Pélé in the power
+of the fearful goddess.
+
+The Princess showed me round the room which contains the portraits of
+the kings and queens of the Sandwich Islands for many generations, the
+early ones attired in their feather capes, the later ones dressed in
+European costumes. Most of them were the work of native artists, but
+the portraits of Kamehameha II. and his queen were painted, during
+their visit to England, by a good artist. Their Majesties are depicted
+in the height of the fashion of the day, the king wearing a blue coat
+and brass buttons, with many orders on his breast, the queen having on
+a very short-waisted, tight-fitting white satin dress, a turban
+surmounted by a tremendous plume of white feathers, and a pearl
+necklace and bracelets: rather a trying costume for a handsome woman
+with a dark complexion and portly figure. They both died in England,
+and their remains were brought back here for burial, in H.M.S.
+'Blonde,' commanded by Lord Byron. There was also a portrait of
+Admiral Thomas, whose memory is highly reverenced here for the happy
+way in which he succeeded in terminating the disputes arising out of
+our claim to the island in 1843, and in restoring King Kamehameha III.
+to his own again.
+
+[Illustration: Feathered Cloak and Helmets.]
+
+The collection likewise included excellent portraits of Louis Philippe
+and Napoleon III. Curiously enough, each of these was sent off from
+France to the Sandwich Islands, by way of Cape Horn, while the
+original was in the zenith of his power and fame; and each reached its
+destination after the original had been deposed and had fled to
+England for refuge.
+
+But the most interesting object of all was still to come--the real
+feather cloak, cape, and girdle of the Kamehamehas, not generally to
+be seen, except at a coronation or christening, but which the Princess
+Kamakaeha, in her capacity of Mistress of the Robes, had kindly
+ordered to be put out for my inspection. The cloak, which is now the
+only one of the kind in existence, is about eleven feet long by five
+broad, and is composed of the purest yellow, or rather golden,
+feathers, which, in the sunlight, are perfectly gorgeous, as they have
+a peculiar kind of metallic lustre, quite independent of their
+brilliant colour.
+
+[Illustration: The Pali-Oahu]
+
+On leaving the palace I had intended to get some lunch at the hotel,
+but found that establishment was closed to the general public, and was
+in the possession of a native teetotal society; so I was obliged to
+return to the yacht. At half-past three, however, we all went ashore
+again, and set out on horseback, a large party, for an excursion to
+the Pali, the children, servants, and provisions preceding us in a
+light two-horse American wagon. We rode through the Nuuanu Avenue, and
+then up the hills, along a moderately good road, for about seven miles
+and a half. This, brought us into a narrow gorge in the midst of the
+mountains, from which we emerged on the other side of the central
+range of hills, forming the backbone of the island. The view from this
+point was beautiful, though I think that the morning would be a better
+time to enjoy it, as, with a setting sun, the landscape was all in
+shadow. The change of temperature, too, after the heat of Honolulu,
+was quite astonishing, considering the short distance we had
+come--about eight miles only. The carriage could not go quite to the
+top of the mountain, and after descending a short distance to where it
+had been left, we dismounted and spread our dinner on the ground; but
+darkness overtook us before we had finished. Matches and lamps had of
+course been forgotten; so that the business of packing up was
+performed under circumstances of great difficulty. The ride down, in
+the light of the almost full moon, was delightful.
+
+We were on board by half-past seven, and went ashore to a ball at nine
+o'clock. The dance took place in the large room of the Hawaiian Hotel,
+and was a great success. The Royal band played for us, and there was
+neither stuffiness nor crowding, nor were there any regulations as to
+dress, gentlemen and ladies coming in evening or morning dress, as it
+suited them best. The Governor and most of the English present,
+including our own party, wore evening dress, and the officers of the
+'Fantôme' were in uniform. Every door and window was open, there was a
+large verandah to sit in, a garden to stroll about in between the
+dances, and an abundance of delicious iced lemonade--very different
+from the composition thus named which is generally met with in London
+assemblies--to drink. At half-past twelve, when people were beginning
+to disperse, we took our departure, Captain Long taking us off to the
+yacht in his boat.
+
+There is to be another ball on Thursday night, for which everybody is
+most anxious that we should stay, as it is to be rather a large
+affair. In order that you may see the Hawaiian fashion of sending out
+cards, I copy the form of invitation we received:--
+
+_The pleasure of the company of Mr. and Mrs.
+Thos. Brassey is requested at a Subscription Ball,
+at the Hawaiian Hotel,_
+
+      ON THURSDAY EVENING, JANUARY 4, 1877, AT 8 O'CLOCK.
+
+  _Respectfully,                        H.A. Widemann,_
+
+                                      FOR THE COMMITTEE.
+
+  _Mrs. Jas. Makee and Mrs. J.S. McGrew will kindly act as matrons
+  of the evening._
+
+
+_Tuesday, January 2nd_.--At eleven o'clock, the King, who was rather
+better, went on board the 'Fantôme,' saw the men at quarters, and
+witnessed the firing of a couple of shots at a target, and shortly
+before twelve paid us a visit, accompanied by the Prince Leleiohoku
+and others. His Majesty is a tall, fine-looking man, with pleasant
+manners, and speaks English perfectly and fluently. He and the Prince
+visited and examined every corner of the yacht, and looked, I think,
+at almost every object on board. The pictures, curiosities, engines,
+and our various little contrivances for economising space, seemed to
+interest them the most. The inspection occupied at least an hour and a
+half; and when it was over, we had a long chat on deck on various
+subjects. The Prince of Wales's visit to India, and the Duke of
+Edinburgh's voyage round the world, were much discussed, I think the
+King would like to use them as a precedent, and see a little more of
+the world himself. His voyage to, and stay in America, he thoroughly
+enjoyed.
+
+It was two o'clock before our visitors left; and a quarter of an hour
+later the Queen and her sister arrived. Her Majesty and her sister
+made quite as minute an inspection of the yacht as her royal consort
+and his brother had done before them. We had arranged to be 'at home'
+to all our kind friends in Honolulu at four o'clock, at which hour
+precisely the Governor sent the Royal band on board to enliven the
+proceedings. Soon our other visitors began to arrive; but the Queen
+appeared to be so well amused that she did not leave until five
+o'clock. By-half-past six, the last of our guests (over 150 in number)
+had said farewell, and there only remained the band to be shown round
+and feasted after their labours. Tom went on board the 'Fantôme' to
+dine, and to meet the British, French, German, and American
+representatives. We went to the hotel; and I must say that I never in
+my life felt more thoroughly worn out than I did that night, after
+standing about and receiving and entertaining all the day.
+
+_Wednesday, January 3rd_.--This was sure to be a disagreeable day,
+since it was to be the concluding one of our short stay in this
+pleasant place. The final preparations for a long voyage had also to
+be made; stores, water, and live stock to be got on board, bills to be
+paid, and adieux to be made to kind friends.
+
+I was on deck at six o'clock, in order to take some photographs and to
+stow away the coral, shells, curiosities, and presents of various
+kinds, that the King, Queen, Prince and Princess, as well as other
+kind friends, had sent us. Before seven the yacht was surrounded by
+boats, and the deck was quite impassable, so encumbered was it with
+all sorts of lumber, waiting to be stowed away, until the boats could
+be hoisted on board and secured for the voyage. The large mizen-sail,
+which had just been repaired and sent on board, looked enormous as it
+lay on the deck, surrounded by hen-coops, sheep, geese, sacks of coal,
+and baskets and parcels of every size and shape. One really began to
+wonder whether space could possibly be found on board for such a
+miscellaneous collection. Several visitors, who had been unable to
+come yesterday, arrived in the midst of the confusion. They must have
+carried away in their minds a different impression of the yacht from
+what they would have done had they seen her looking as trim and smart
+as she did yesterday. It could not, however, be helped; for the
+departure of a small vessel, with forty people on board, on a voyage
+of a month's duration, is a matter requiring considerable preparation.
+
+At eleven o'clock we landed and went to see the interior of the
+Queen's Hospital. It is a fine and well-kept building, containing, at
+the time of our visit, about ninety patients, the men occupying the
+lower, the women the upper story. Each ward is tastefully decorated
+with bouquets, and the name is written up in bright mauve
+bougainvillea or scarlet hibiscus, tacked on to white calico. Many of
+the convalescents wore wreaths and garlands of flowers, and even those
+in bed had a few beside them, or in some cases a single spray laid on
+the coverlet. The effect was bright and cheerful; and it seemed a kind
+and sensible idea to endeavour to gratify, instead of to repress, the
+instinctive love of flowers universally felt by the natives of these
+and of the South Sea Islands.
+
+From the hospital we went to pay farewell visits, to lunch at the
+hotel, and to settle sundry bills. At three we were to go to the Royal
+Mausoleum. This was a special privilege, and, I believe, the greatest
+compliment that has been paid to us anywhere. No foreigners are
+allowed to enter, except admirals on the station; and very few
+inhabitants of Honolulu have ever seen the interior. The King has one
+key, the Dowager Queen Emma another, and the Minister of the Interior
+the third.
+
+On our way up the hill to the Mausoleum, there was a funeral going on,
+very much after the style of an Irish wake in one of the dwellings of
+the poorer class. The house was decorated with flags, and was crowded
+with people, all dressed in black, and generally with bright yellow
+_leis_ over their heads and necks. They had evidently come from some
+distance, judging by the number of carts and wagons drawn up outside
+the door. Several people were sitting in an upper verandah. The corpse
+was laid out in the lower room, facing the road, as we could see
+through the open windows and door. It was surrounded by mourners, and
+four women were waving large _kahilis_ slowly backwards and forwards
+in front of it.
+
+The Princess herself met us at the Mausoleum, which is a small but
+handsome stone Gothic building, situated above the Nuuanu Avenue, on
+the road to the Pali. It commands a fine view over land and sea, and
+the gentle breezes waft through the open windows sweet scents from the
+many fragrant trees and flowers by which it is surrounded. There lay
+the coffins of all the kings of Hawaii, their consorts, and their
+children, for many generations past. The greater part were of polished
+_koa_ wood, though some were covered with red velvet ornamented with
+gold. Many of them appeared to be of an enormous size; for, as I have
+already observed, the chiefs of these islands have almost invariably
+been men of large and powerful frames. The bones of Kamehameha I. were
+in a square oak chest. At the foot of the coffin of Kamehameha IV.
+there were two immense _kahilis_ about twelve feet high, one of
+rose-coloured, the other of black feathers, with tortoise-shell
+handles. The remains of King Luna'ilo are not here, having been buried
+just outside the native church in the town. In the vestibule to the
+tombs of the kings rests the coffin of Mr. Wylie, described as 'the
+greatest European benefactor of the Hawaiian people.' A ship now in
+the harbour bears his name, and one constantly meets with proofs of
+the respect and reverence in which his name is held.
+
+The Princess drove us down to the wharf, where we said good-bye to her
+with feelings of the greatest regret. I cannot express the sorrow
+that we all feel at leaving the many kind friends we have met with in
+'dear Honolulu,' as Muriel calls it. But the farewells were at last
+over, the anchor was weighed, and the yacht, which was by this time
+once more in apple-pie order, began slowly to move ahead. Suddenly we
+heard shouts from the shore, and saw a boat pursuing us in hot haste.
+We stopped, and received on board a basket of beautiful ferns and
+other parcels from different friends. A second boat was then seen
+coming off to us, which contained a fine dish of delicious honey and
+some flowers. The order to go ahead again was scarcely given, before a
+third boat, in, if possible, hotter haste than the two previous ones,
+put off after us, bringing some things the laundress had forgotten.
+
+[Illustration: ZEUS CILIARIS]
+
+Now we are fairly off; and now surely the last link that binds us to
+the shore is broken. But no! there are farewell signals and hearty
+cheers yet to come from the officers and men of the 'Fantôme;' and,
+still further out, on the top of the tiny lighthouse at the mouth of
+the narrow passage through the reef, stand other friends, cheering and
+waving their handkerchiefs. They had rowed out thither, being
+determined to give us really _the_ parting cheer, and till the shades
+of twilight fell we could see their white handkerchiefs fluttering,
+and hear their voices borne on the evening breeze, as we meandered
+slowly through the tortuous channels into deep water.
+
+Once outside we found there was plenty of wind and a heavy roll, which
+sent me quickly to bed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+
+HONOLULU TO YOKOHAMA.
+
+    _As slow our ship her foamy track_
+    _Against the wind was cleaving,_
+    _Her trembling pennant still look'd back_
+    _To that dear isle 'twas leaving._
+
+_Thursday, January 4th_.--It was very rough, but fortunately the wind
+came from a favourable quarter. Sorry as we all were to bid farewell
+to these charming islands, I could not help rejoicing that we had
+picked up a fresh fair wind so unexpectedly soon.
+
+While we were at Honolulu a regular epidemic of influenza prevailed in
+the place, affecting both man and beast. This is often the case during
+the prevalence of the south wind, which blew, more or less, during the
+whole of our stay. We none of us suffered from the malady at the time,
+but now nearly everybody on board is affected, and some very severely.
+
+_Friday, January 5th_.--The fresh fair breeze still continues. At noon
+we had sailed 240 knots. The head-sea we could dispense with, as it
+makes us all very uncomfortable. Muriel, Baby, the three maids, and
+several of the crew, are ill to-day with influenza, and I have a
+slight touch of it, so I suppose it will go right through the ship.
+Towards the evening the breeze increased to a gale.
+
+_Saturday, January 6th_.--The gale increased during the night, and the
+head-sea became heavier. There was a good deal of rain in the course
+of the day. The wind dropped about sunset, and was succeeded by
+intervals of calm, with occasional sharp squalls. Baby was very
+poorly all day, but seemed better at night. We have now regularly
+settled down to our sea life again, and, if only the children recover,
+I hope to get through a good deal of reading and writing between this
+and Japan. At present they occupy all my time and attention, but I
+think, like the weather, they have now taken a turn for the better.
+
+_Sunday, January 7th_.--A very rough and disagreeable day, with much
+rain. All the morning we rolled about, becalmed, in a heavy swell.
+Steam was ordered at half-past twelve, but before it was up the fair
+wind had returned, so the fires were put out. We had the Litany at
+eleven, and a short service, without a sermon, at four.
+
+Baby was _very_ ill all night. Everything was shut up on account of
+the torrents of rain, so that the heat was almost insufferable, and we
+tossed and tumbled about in the most miserable manner.
+
+_Monday, January 8th_.--All the early part of the morning we were in
+the greatest anxiety about Baby; she could hardly draw her breath, and
+lay in her cot, or on her nurse's lap, almost insensible, and quite
+blue in the face, in spite of the application of mustard, hot water,
+and every remedy we could think of. The influenza with her has taken
+the form of bronchitis and pleurisy. The other children are still
+ailing. Heavy squalls of wind and rain, and continuous rolling,
+prevailed throughout the day.
+
+_Tuesday, January 9th_.--The wind fell light, and the weather
+improved; but we tumbled about more than ever. The thermometer in the
+nursery stood at 90°. The children are a shade better.
+
+_Wednesday, January 10th_.--Very hot, and a flat calm. Steam was up at
+7.30 a.m. Mabelle is convalescent; Muriel not so well; Baby certainly
+better. In the afternoon one of the boiler-tubes burst. It was
+repaired, and we went on steaming. In the evening it burst again, and
+was once more repaired, without causing a long stoppage.
+
+(_Thursday, January 11th_, had no existence for us, as, in the
+process of crossing the 180th meridian, we have lost a day.)
+
+_Friday, January 12th_.--Wednesday morning with us was Tuesday evening
+with people in England, and we were thus twelve hours in advance of
+them. To-day the order of things is reversed, and we are now twelve
+hours behind our friends at home. Having quitted one side of the map
+of the world (according to Mercator's projection), and entered upon
+the other half, we begin to feel that we are at last really 'homeward
+bound.'
+
+At four a.m. Powell woke us with the announcement that the boiler-tube
+had again burst, and that we had consequently ceased steaming. Letting
+off steam, and blowing out the boiler, made a tremendous noise, which
+aroused everybody in the ship. It was a lovely morning, but a flat
+calm, and the sun rose magnificently. The few light clouds near the
+surface of the water caught and reflected the rays of light most
+brilliantly before the sun itself appeared, and assumed all manner of
+fanciful shapes.
+
+About six o'clock a very light breeze sprang up, which increased
+during the day; but the sea remained perfectly calm. We think we must
+have got into the trade again. This weather is indeed a luxury after
+all the knocking about we have lately gone through; and I feel as if I
+could never rest enough. The constant effort to maintain one's
+balance, whether sitting, standing, or moving about, has been most
+fatiguing, and the illness of the children has made matters worse.
+Baby is, I hope, now quite out of danger.
+
+_Saturday, January 13th_.--The engineers made up their minds that we
+were in the trade winds again yesterday, and that we should not want
+the engines for some days. They therefore did not hurry on with the
+repairs as they should have done. This morning there was a calm, and
+when Tom ordered steam to be got up at once, the reply was,
+'Please, sir, the engine won't be ready till night.' This was
+annoying; but they worked extra hard all day, and by 4 p.m. steam was
+raised. At six a nice little breeze sprang up, which freshened during
+the evening, and at midnight orders were given to stop steaming.
+
+We had another bad night of it--a head wind, the sea washing over the
+decks, everything shut up, and the thermometer standing at 90°.
+
+_Sunday, January 14th_.--I was on deck at 4 a.m. The Southern Cross,
+the Great Bear, and the North Star, were shining with a brilliancy
+that eclipsed all the other stars.
+
+During the day the wind freshened to a squally gale. Sometimes we were
+going ten, sometimes thirteen, and sometimes fifteen knots through the
+water, knocking about a good deal all the while. Service was an
+impossibility; cooking and eating, indeed, were matters of difficulty.
+It rained heavily, and the seas came over the deck continually.
+
+Many of the sailors and servants were ill. I was hopelessly so.
+Nothing annoys me more than to find that, after having sailed tens and
+tens of thousands of miles, I cannot cure myself of sea-sickness. I
+can stand a good deal more rolling than I once could; but still, many
+are the days when nothing but the firmest determination not to think
+about it, but to find something to do, and to do it with all my might,
+keeps me on my feet at all. Fewer, happily, are the days when
+struggling is of no avail, when I am utterly and hopelessly
+incapacitated, ignominiously and literally laid flat on my back, and
+when no effort of will can enable me to do what I most wish to
+accomplish. If only some physician could invent a sovereign remedy for
+sea-sickness, he would deserve well of his country, and of mankind in
+general.
+
+_Monday, January 15th_.--I woke once or twice in the night, and felt
+exactly as if I were being pulled backwards through the water by my
+hair. We were rushing and tearing along at such a pace, against a head
+sea, that it almost took one's breath away. But at noon we were
+rewarded for all discomfort by finding that we had run 298 sea, or 343
+land miles, in 24 hours, and that between 8.14 yesterday and 8.15
+to-day we had made 302 knots, or 347 land miles--nearly 350 miles in
+the 24 hours--under very snug canvas, and through a heavy sea. The
+wind still continued fair and fresh, but the sea was much quieter, and
+we all felt comparatively comfortable. More sails were set during the
+afternoon. Some albatrosses and long-tailed tropic birds were seen
+hovering about us. The moon begins to give a good light now, and we
+found it very pleasant on deck this evening.
+
+_Wednesday, January 17th_.--It was a fine warm morning, and we got the
+children on deck for the first time for ten days.
+
+_Thursday, January 18th_.--Between breakfast and lunch we sailed over
+the spot where Tarquin Island is marked on the chart, and, between
+lunch and dinner, over a nameless reef, also marked on the chart. A
+good look-out had been kept at the masthead and in the bows, but not a
+trace could be seen of either of these objects in any direction. The
+weather kept clear and bright, and the sea was much calmer.
+
+During the last five days we have covered 1,221 sea miles.
+
+_Monday, January 22nd_.--At daylight Asuncion Island was still
+visible. It is of volcanic origin, and is in the form of a perfect
+sugar-loaf, 2,600 feet high, rising out of the sea, exactly as I had
+expected the Peak of Teneriffe to appear. I should like to have landed
+on the islands Agrigan or Tinian, so as to see the interesting remains
+left by the ancient inhabitants. Some people say that they resemble
+Aztec remains; others, that they are like those of the more modern
+Peruvians. All authorities, however, seem to agree that they are like
+those on Easter Island, the south-east extremity of Polynesia, this
+being the north-west.
+
+[Illustration: Amateur Navigation]
+
+We were close-hauled all day; the wind was strong, and the sea rough
+and disagreeable.
+
+_Tuesday, January 23rd_.--Still close-hauled, and still a heavy swell.
+I felt very ill, and could scarcely move my head for neuralgia. The
+galley boiler burst to-day, so we are now dependent on the one in the
+forecastle. During the night we passed the Euphrosyne rock. It looks
+like a ship in full sail, and abounds with turtle, fish, and
+sea-elephants.
+
+_Wednesday, January 24th_.--Very much colder, though we are only just
+outside the tropics. The wind was rather freer, and we had a beautiful
+moonlight night.
+
+_Friday, January 26th_.--During the night the breeze freshened, and in
+the morning increased to a gale. Steam was therefore let off. It has
+been a miserable day; so cold, wet, and rough, that it was impossible
+to do anything, or to sit anywhere, except on the floor.
+
+About 9 p.m. I was sitting in the deck-house, when I heard a
+tremendous crash, and, looking out, saw that the fore gig davits had
+been carried away, taking with them a piece of the rail, stanchion,
+and cavil. The gig was hanging from the after davits, one might say,
+by a thread, splashing and dashing in and out of the water, and
+crashing and splintering against the side of the yacht. All hands were
+speedily on deck; and in spite of the risk they ran, and of the
+remonstrances of their comrades, two of the gig's crew jumped into her
+with a rope, which they tried to pass round her. It was a difficult
+task in that heavy sea, and many times they failed, and we constantly
+feared that men, boat, and all were gone. Half a dozen of the crew
+caught hold of the rigging outside, put their backs against the yacht,
+and with legs outstretched tried to keep the gig off the ship's side,
+while all the loose gear was floating away out of her. At last there
+was a shout of triumph. The rope was round her, the men jumped on
+board the yacht again, whilst sailors, stewards, and passengers
+proceeded to hoist and drag the boat in, with all their might and
+main. Alas! she was only a wreck. Her sides were stove in, her planks
+were started, there was a hole in her bottom, and the moon shone
+through her many cracks.
+
+_Saturday, January 27th_.--About two o'clock this morning the yacht
+plunged so heavily into a deep sea, that the jibboom, a beautiful
+spar, broke short off, and the foretop-gallant mast and topgallant
+yard were carried away almost at the same moment, with a terrible
+noise. It took about eight hours to clear the wreck, all hands working
+all night; and a very forlorn appearance the deck presented in the
+morning, lumbered up with broken spars, ropes, &c. The jibboom fell
+right across the forefoot of the yacht, and now looks as if it had
+been cut at for weeks with some blunt tool.
+
+The weather cleared a little to-day, but there was still a heavy sea
+and nearly a head wind. The crew were busily engaged in repairing
+damages. Unfortunately, two of them are ill, and so is the carpenter,
+a specially important person at this juncture. No men could have
+behaved better than they all did after the accident. It was frightful
+to see them aloft in such weather, swinging on the ends of the broken
+spars, as the yacht rolled and pitched about. When it comes to a pinch
+they are all good men and true: not that they are perfection, any more
+than other men are.
+
+_Sunday, January 28th_.--It is finer, but bitterly cold. Several of my
+tropical birds are already dead. The little pig from Harpe Island, and
+the Hawaiian geese, look very wretched, in spite of all my
+precautions.
+
+We had the Litany at eleven, and prayer and a sermon at four; after
+which Tom addressed the men, paying them some well-deserved
+compliments on their behaviour on Friday night.
+
+The decks were very slippery, and as we kept rolling about a good deal
+there were some nasty falls among the passengers. We had a splendid
+though stormy sunset, which did not belie its promise, for the wind
+shortly afterwards became stiffer and stronger, until at last we had
+two reefs down, and were tumbling about in all directions, as we
+rushed through the water. The dining-tables tilted till they could go
+no further, and then paused to go back again; but not quickly enough,
+for the glasses began to walk uphill and go over the edge in the most
+extraordinary manner. On deck the night looked brilliant but rather
+terrible. The full moon made it as light as day, and illuminated the
+fountains of spray blown from the waves by which we were surrounded.
+Without her heavy jibboom, and with her canvas well reefed down, the
+'Sunbeam' rode through it all, dipping her head into the sea,
+shivering from stem to stern, and then giving herself a shake,
+preparatory to a fresh start, just like a playful water-bird emerging
+from a prolonged dive.
+
+At midnight a tremendous sea struck her, and for a minute you could
+not see the yacht at all, as she was completely enveloped in spray and
+foam. Tom said it was just like being behind the falls of Niagara,
+with the water coming over you from every quarter at once. It was only
+loose stuff, however, for not a green sea did she take on board the
+whole night through. Our old engineer, who has been with us so long,
+made up his mind that we had struck on a rock, and woke up all the
+servants and told them to go on deck. I never felt anything like it
+before, and the shock sent half of us out of our beds.
+
+_Monday, January 29th_.--At four o'clock I was called to go on deck to
+see the burning mountain. The wind was still blowing hard, but we were
+among the islands, and in comparatively smooth water. The full moon
+still rode high in the heavens, her light being reflected in rainbow
+hues from the spray and foam that drifted along the surface of the
+water. On every side were islands and rocks, among which the sea
+boiled, and seethed, and swirled, while the roaring breakers dashed
+against the higher cliffs, casting great columns of spray into the
+air, and falling back in heavy rollers and surf. Just before us rose
+the island of Vries, with its cone-shaped volcano, 2,600 feet high,
+emitting volumes of smoke and flame. It was overhung by a cloud of
+white vapour, on the under side of which shone the lurid glare of the
+fires of the crater. Sometimes this cloud simply floated over the top
+of the mountain, from which it was quite detached; then there would be
+a fresh eruption; and after a few moments' quiet, great tongues of
+flame would shoot up and pierce through the overhanging cloud to the
+heavens above, while the molten lava rose like a fountain for a short
+distance, and then ran down the sides of the mountain. It was
+wondrously beautiful; and, as a defence against the intense cold, we
+wrapped ourselves in furs, and stayed on deck watching the scene,
+until the sun rose glorious from the sea, and shone upon the
+snow-covered sides of Fujiyama, called by the Japanese 'the matchless
+mountain.' It is an extinct crater, of the most perfect form, rising
+abruptly from a chain of very low mountains, so that it stands in
+unrivalled magnificence. This morning covered with the fresh-fallen
+snow, there was not a spot nor a fleck to be seen upon it, from top to
+bottom. It is said to be the youngest mountain in the world, the
+enormous mass having been thrown up in the course of a few days only
+862 years B.C.
+
+We reached the entrance to the Gulf of Yeddo about nine o'clock, and
+passed between its shores through hundreds of junks and fishing boats.
+I never saw anything like it before. The water was simply covered with
+them; and at a distance it looked as though it would be impossible to
+force a passage. As it was, we could not proceed very fast, so
+constantly were the orders to 'slow,' 'stop,' 'port,' 'starboard,'
+given; and I began at last to fear that it would be impossible to
+reach Yokohama without running down at least one boat.
+
+The shores of the gulf, on each side, consist of sharp-cut little
+hills, covered with pines and cryptomerias, and dotted with temples
+and villages. Every detail of the scene exactly resembled the
+Japanese pictures one is accustomed to see in England; and it was easy
+to imagine that we were only gazing upon a slowly moving panorama,
+unrolling itself before us.
+
+It was twelve o'clock before we found ourselves among the men-of-war
+and steamers lying near the port of Yokohama, and two o'clock before
+the anchor could be dropped.
+
+[Illustration: Little Redcap.]
+
+During this interval we were surrounded by a swarm of boats, the
+occupants of which clamoured vociferously to be allowed on board, and
+in many cases they succeeded in evading the vigilance of the man at
+the gangway, by going round the other side and climbing over the rail.
+A second man was put on guard; but it was of no use, for we were
+invaded from all directions at once. We had a good many visitors also
+from the men-of-war, Japanese and English, and from the reporters of
+newspapers, full of curiosity, questions, and astonishment.
+
+Having at last managed to get some lunch, Tom went to bed to rest,
+after his two hard nights' work, and the rest of us went on shore.
+Directly we landed at the jetty we were rushed at by a crowd of
+_jinrikisha_ men, each drawing a little vehicle not unlike a Hansom
+cab, without the seat for the driver--there being no horse to drive.
+The man runs between the shafts, and is often preceded by a leader,
+harnessed on in front, tandem fashion. Each of these vehicles holds
+one person, and they go along at a tremendous pace.
+
+We went first to the Consul's, where we got a few letters, and then to
+the Post Office, where many more awaited us. We had then to go to
+various places to order stores, fresh provisions, coals, and water,
+all of which were urgently needed on board, and to give directions for
+the repair of boats, spars, &c., with as little delay as possible. All
+this business, including the inevitable search for a good laundress,
+lay in the European quarter of the town, the appearance of which was
+not remarkable. But the people we met in the streets were a study in
+themselves. The children said they looked 'like fans walking about;'
+and it was not difficult to understand their meaning. The dress of the
+lower orders has remained precisely the same for hundreds of years;
+and before I had been ashore five minutes I realised more fully than I
+had ever done before the truthfulness of the representations of native
+artists, with which the fans, screens, and vases one sees in England
+are ornamented.
+
+While we were going about, a letter was brought me, containing the sad
+news (received here by telegram) of the death of Tom's mother. It was
+a terrible shock, coming, too, just as we were rejoicing in the good
+accounts from home which our letters contained. I went on board at
+once to break the bad news to Tom. This sad intelligence realised a
+certain vague dread of something, we knew not what, which has seemed
+to haunt us both on our way hither.
+
+[Illustration: Japanese Boats.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+YOKOHAMA.
+
+    _Heavily plunged the breaking wave,_
+    _And foam flew up the lea,_
+    _Morning and evening the drifted snow_
+    _Fell into the dark grey sea._
+
+
+_Tuesday, January 30th_.--When we awoke from our slumbers this
+morning, it was very cold and dark, and we heard noises of a strange
+kind. On going on deck to ascertain the cause of this state of things,
+we discovered that the sky-lights and portholes were all covered and
+blocked up with snow, and that the water froze as it came out of the
+hose, forming a sheet of ice on the deck. Masses of snow and ice were
+falling from the rigging, and everything betokened that our welcome to
+Japan would not be a warm one.
+
+[Illustration: Fujiyama, Japan]
+
+After breakfast we had many visitors, and received letters from Sir
+Harry and Lady Parkes, inviting us to go up to Yeddo to-morrow for a
+long day, to settle our future plans.
+
+Having landed, we went with the Consul to the native town, to see the
+curio shops, which are a speciality of the place. The inhabitants are
+wonderfully clever at making all sorts of curiosities, and the
+manufactories of so-called 'antique bronzes' and 'old china' are two
+of the most wonderful sights in Yokohama. The way in which they
+scrape, crack, chip, mend, and colour the various articles, cover them
+with dust, partially clean them, and imitate the marks and signatures
+of celebrated makers, is more creditable to their ingenuity than to
+their honesty. Still, there are a good many genuine old relics from
+the temples, and from the large houses of the reduced Daimios, to be
+picked up, if you go the right way to work, though the supply is
+limited. Dealers are plentiful, and travellers, especially from
+America, are increasing in numbers. When we first made acquaintance
+with the shops we thought they seemed full of beautiful things, but
+even one day's shopping, in the company of experienced people, has
+educated our taste and taught us a great deal; though we have still
+much to learn. There are very respectable-looking lacquer cabinets
+ranging in price from 5_s_. to 20_l_. But they are only made for the
+foreign market. No such things exist in a Japanese home. A really good
+bit of old lacquer (the best is generally made into the form of a
+small box, a portable medicine-chest, or a chow-chow box) is worth
+from 20_l_. to 200_l_. We saw one box, about three inches square,
+which was valued at 45_l_.; and a collection of really good lacquer
+would be costly and difficult to procure even here. The best specimens
+I have ever seen are at Lady Alcock's; but they are all either royal
+or princely presents, not to be bought with money. The tests of good
+lacquer are its exquisite finish, its satiny, oily feel, and the
+impossibility of making any impression on it with your thumb-nail. It
+is practically indestructible, and will wear for ever. All the poor as
+well as the rich people here use it, and have used it for centuries,
+instead of china and glass, for cups, saucers, dishes, bowls, which
+would need to be often washed in the hottest of water. It is said that
+the modern Japanese have lost the art of lacquer making; and as an
+illustration I was told that many beautiful articles of lacquer, old
+and new, had been sent from this country to the Vienna Exhibition in
+1873, but the price put on them was so exorbitant that few were sold,
+and nearly all had to be sent back to Japan. Just as the ship with
+these things on board reached the Gulf of Yeddo, she struck on a rock
+and sank in shallow water. A month or two ago a successful attempt was
+made to raise her, and to recover the cargo, when it was found that
+the new lacquer had been reduced to a state of pulp, while the old was
+not in the least damaged. I tell you the tale as it was told to me.
+
+After a long day's shopping, we went to dine, in real Japanese
+fashion, at a Japanese tea-house. The establishment was kept by a very
+pleasant woman, who received us at the door, and who herself removed
+our exceedingly dirty boots before allowing us to step on to her clean
+mats. This was all very well, as far as it went; but she might as well
+have supplied us with some substitute for the objectionable articles,
+for it was a bitterly cold night, and the highly polished wood
+passages and steep staircase felt very cold to our shoeless feet. The
+apartment we were shown into was so exact a type of a room in any
+Japanese house, that I may as well describe it once for all. The
+woodwork of the roof and the framework of the screens were all made of
+a handsome dark polished wood, not unlike walnut. The exterior walls
+under the verandah, as well as the partitions between the other rooms,
+were simply wooden lattice-work screens, covered with white paper, and
+sliding in grooves; so that you could walk in or out at any part of
+the wall you chose, and it was, in like manner, impossible to say
+whence the next comer would make his appearance. Doors and windows
+are, by this arrangement, rendered unnecessary, and do not exist. You
+open a little bit of your wall if you want to look out, and a bigger
+bit if you want to step out. The floor was covered with several
+thicknesses of very fine mats, each about six feet long by three
+broad, deliciously soft to walk upon. All mats in Japan are of the
+same size, and everything connected with house-building is measured by
+this standard. Once you have prepared your foundations and woodwork of
+the dimensions of so many mats, it is the easiest thing in the world
+to go to a shop and buy a house, ready made, which you can then set up
+and furnish in the scanty Japanese fashion in a couple of days.
+
+On one side of the room was a slightly raised daïs, about four inches
+from the floor. This was the seat of honour. On it had been placed a
+stool, a little bronze ornament, and a china vase, with a branch of
+cherry-blossom and a few flag-leaves gracefully arranged. On the wall
+behind hung pictures, which are changed every month, according to the
+season of the year. There was no other furniture of any sort in the
+room. Four nice-looking Japanese girls brought us thick cotton quilts
+to sit upon, and braziers full of burning charcoal, to warm ourselves
+by. In the centre of the group another brazier was placed, protected
+by a square wooden grating, and over the whole they laid a large silk
+eider-down quilt, to retain the heat. This is the way in which all the
+rooms, even bedrooms, are warmed in Japan, and the result is that
+fires are of very frequent occurrence. The brazier is kicked over by
+some restless or careless person, and in a moment the whole place is
+in a blaze.
+
+Presently the eider down and brazier were removed, and our dinner was
+brought in. A little lacquer table, about six inches high, on which
+were arranged a pair of chop-sticks, a basin of soup, a bowl for
+rice, a _saki_ cup, and a basin of hot water, was placed before each
+person, whilst the four Japanese maidens sat in our midst, with fires
+to keep the _saki_ hot, and to light the tiny pipes with which they
+were provided, and from which they wished us to take a whiff after
+each dish. _Saki_ is a sort of spirit, distilled from rice, always
+drunk hot, out of small cups. In this state it is not disagreeable,
+but we found it exceedingly nasty when cold.
+
+Everything was well cooked and served, though the ingredients of some
+of the dishes, as will be seen from the following bill of fare, were
+rather strange to our ideas. Still they were all eatable, and most of
+them really palatable.
+
+_Soup_.
+
+_Shrimps and Seaweed_.
+
+_Prawns, Egg Omelette, and Preserved Grapes_.
+
+_Fried Fish, Spinach, Young Rushes, and Young Ginger_.
+
+_Raw Fish, Mustard and Cress, Horseradish, and Soy_.
+
+_Thick Soup, of Eggs, Fish, Mushrooms, and Spinach; Grilled Fish_.
+
+_Fried Chicken, and Bamboo Shoots_.
+
+_Turnip Tops and Root Pickled_.
+
+_Rice ad libitum in a large bowl_.
+
+_Hot Saki, Pipes and Tea_.
+
+The meal concluded with an enormous lacquer box of rice, from which
+all our bowls were filled, the rice being thence conveyed to our
+mouths by means of chop-sticks. We managed very well with these
+substitutes for spoons and forks, the knack of using which, to a
+certain extent, is soon acquired. The long intervals between the
+dishes were beguiled with songs, music, and dancing, performed by
+professional singing and dancing girls. The music was somewhat harsh
+and monotonous; but the songs sounded harmonious, and the dancing was
+graceful, though it was rather posturing than dancing, great use being
+made of the fan and the long trailing skirts. The girls, who were
+pretty, wore peculiar dresses to indicate their calling, and seemed of
+an entirely different stamp from the quiet, simply dressed waitresses
+whom we found so attentive to our wants. Still they all looked cheery,
+light-hearted, simple creatures, and appeared to enjoy immensely the
+little childish games they played amongst themselves between whiles.
+
+After dinner we had some real Japanese tea, tasting exactly like a
+little hot water poured on very fragrant new-mown hay. Then, after a
+brief visit to the kitchen, which, though small, was beautifully
+clean, we received our boots, and were bowed out by our pleasant
+hostess and her attentive handmaidens.
+
+On our return we had considerable difficulty in procuring a boat, our
+own boats being all ashore under repair. It was a beautiful moonlight
+night, but bitterly cold. The harbour being so full of shipping, our
+boatmen were at first puzzled how to find the yacht, till we pointed
+to the lights in the deck-house--always a good beacon at night in a
+crowded harbour.
+
+_Wednesday, January 31st_. We left the yacht soon after eight o'clock,
+and started by the 9.34 a.m. train for the city formerly called Yeddo,
+but latterly, since the Mikado has resided there, Tokio, or eastern
+capital of Japan. The ground was covered with snow, and there were
+several degrees of frost, but the sun felt hot, and all the people
+were sunning themselves in the doorways or wide verandahs of their
+houses.
+
+Yokohama has been so completely Europeanised, that it was not until we
+had left it that we caught our first glimpse of Japanese life; and the
+whole landscape and the many villages looked very like a set of living
+fans or tea-trays, though somehow the snow did not seem to harmonise
+with it.
+
+We crossed several rivers, and reached Tokio in about an hour, when we
+at once emerged into the midst of a clattering, chattering crowd,
+amongst whom there did not seem to be a single European. The
+reverberation, under the glass roof of the station, of the hundreds of
+pairs of wooden clogs, pattering along, was something extraordinary.
+Giving up our tickets, and following the stream, we found ourselves
+surrounded by a still more animated scene, outside the station. We
+were just deliberating what to do next, when a smart little Japanese,
+with a mail-bag over his shoulder, stepped forward and said something
+about Sir Harry Parkes. He then popped us all into several double and
+treble-manned _jinrikishas_, and started off himself ahead at a
+tremendous pace, shouting and clearing the way for us.
+
+Tokio is a genuinely Japanese town. Not a single foreigner resides
+within its limits, with the exception of the foreign Ministers. There
+is no hotel nor any place of the kind to stay at; so that, unless you
+have friends at any of the Legations, you must return to Yokohama the
+same day, which makes a visit rather a fatiguing affair.[16]
+
+[Footnote 16: I have since heard that there are two hotels at Tokio,
+such as they are.]
+
+Our first halting-place was at the Temple of Shiba, not far from the
+station, where most of the Tycoons have been buried. It is a large
+enclosure, many acres in extent, in the centre of the city, with walls
+overgrown with creepers, and shadowed by evergreen trees, amid whose
+branches rooks caw, ravens croak, and pigeons coo, as undisturbedly as
+if in the midst of the deepest woodland solitude. I had no idea there
+was anything so beautiful in Japanese architecture as this temple. The
+primary idea in the architecture of Japan is evidently that of a tent
+among trees. The lines of the high, overhanging, richly decorated
+roofs, with pointed gable ends, are not straight, but delicately
+curved, like the suspended cloth of a tent. In the same way, the
+pillars have neither capital nor base, but seem to run through the
+building perpendicularly, without beginning or end. The principal
+temple was burnt down a few years ago; but there are many smaller ones
+remaining, built in exactly the same style, and all the tombs are
+perfect. Some people say the bodies are enclosed in coffins, filled
+with vermilion, but I need hardly say we had no opportunity of
+ascertaining the correctness of this statement. We entered several of
+the temples, which are perfect marvels of carving, gilding, painting,
+and lacquer work. Their style of decoration may be somewhat barbaric;
+but what a study they would form for an artist! Outside, where no
+colour is used, the overhanging roofs and the walls are carved with a
+depth and boldness, and yet a delicacy, I have seldom seen equalled;
+the doors and railings being of massive bronze, brought from the
+Corea. Within, a dim religious light illumines and harmonises a
+dazzling mass of lacquer, gold, and painting. It is the grandest
+burial-place imaginable; too good for the long line of men who have
+tyrannised over Japan and its lawful sovereigns for so many centuries
+past.
+
+The streets of Tokio were crowded with a motley throng up to the very
+gates of the citadel, where, within the first moat, stand all the
+_yashgis_, or residences of the Daimios. Each _yashgi_ is surrounded
+by a blank wall, loopholed, and with a tower at each of the four
+corners. Within this outer wall is the court of the retainers, all of
+them 'two-sworded' men; then comes a second wall, also loopholed,
+inside which dwell distant relations of the Daimio; and then again a
+third enclosure, guarding the Daimio himself, with his immediate
+belongings. After crossing the third moat we reached the Mikado's
+gardens and palace, the public offices, and the residences of the
+foreign Ministers, all of which were formerly occupied by the Tycoon,
+or Shogun, and his ministers. On the waters of the inner moat were
+thousands of wild ducks and geese. Nobody is allowed to harm them, and
+the birds seem to be perfectly aware of this fact, for they disport
+themselves with the greatest confidence.
+
+The English Embassy is a nice red brick house, built in the centre of
+a garden, so as to be as secure as possible from fire or attack. After
+a most pleasant luncheon we looked over the nucleus of a second
+collection which Lady Parkes is beginning to form. Her former
+beautiful collection was burnt a few years ago, a most disheartening
+misfortune, especially as the opportunities for obtaining really old
+and good things in Japan are diminishing day by day.
+
+A little later we started in great force, some in carriages and some
+on horseback, attended by running grooms, to see something more of the
+city. These men think nothing of running by the side of a horse and
+carriage some forty miles a day. They form a distinct class, and when
+working on their own account wear little clothing. When in the service
+of private individuals they are dressed in tight-fitting dark-blue
+garments, with short capes, fastened to their arms, and large hats.
+
+Just outside the Embassy we passed two of the finest of the still
+existing _yashgis_, the larger one being used as the Home Office, the
+other as the Foreign Office.
+
+There is always a festival going on in some part of Tokio. To-day
+there had been a great wrestling-match, and we met all the people
+coming away. Such crowds of _jinrikiskas_, full of gaily dressed and
+painted women and children, with their hair plastered into all sorts
+of inconceivable shapes, and decorated with artificial flowers and
+glittering pins! We met six of the wrestlers themselves, riding in
+_jinrikishas_--big men, prodigiously fat, and not at all, according to
+our ideas, in fighting or wrestling condition. One of their
+_jinrikisha_ men stumbled and fell, just as they passed us, and the
+wrestler shot out, head over heels, and lay, a helpless ball of fat,
+in the middle of the road, till somebody came and picked him up. He
+was not in the least hurt, and, as soon as he was set on his feet
+again, began to belabour the poor _jinrikisha_ man most unmercifully.
+After a long and delightful drive we arrived at the station just in
+time to catch the train.
+
+The return journey to Yokohama, in the omnibus-like railway carriages,
+was very cold, and the _jinrikisha_ drive to the Grand Hotel colder
+still; but a roaring fire and a capital dinner soon warmed and
+comforted us.
+
+After dinner we looked over a fine collection of photographs of
+Japanese scenery and costumes, and then returned to the yacht in the
+house-boat belonging to the hotel, which was prettily decorated with
+bright-coloured lanterns, and which afforded welcome shelter from the
+biting wind.
+
+_Thursday, February 1st_.--Careful arrangements have been made for our
+excursion to the Island of Inoshima, to see the great figure of
+Daibutz. By eight o'clock we had landed, and packed ourselves into a
+funny little shaky carriage, drawn by four horses. We drove quickly
+through the town, past the station, along the Tokaido, or imperial
+road, running from one end of the Island of Niphon to the other, and
+on which so many foreigners have been murdered even within the last
+ten years. Now, however, it is perfectly safe. The houses are one
+story high, and their walls are made of the screens I have already
+described. These screens were all thrown back, to admit the morning
+air, cold as it was. We could consequently see all that was going on
+within, in the sitting-room in front, and even in the bedrooms and
+kitchen. At the back of the house there was invariably a little garden
+to be seen, with a miniature rockery, a tree, and a lake; possibly
+also a bridge and a temple. Even in the gardens of the poorest houses
+an attempt at something of the sort had been made. The domestic
+occupations of the inhabitants being conducted in this public manner,
+a very good idea might be obtained, even at the end of a few miles'
+drive, of how the lower class of Japanese wash and dress themselves
+and their children, how very elaborate the process of hair-dressing
+is, to say nothing of a bird's-eye view of the ground-plan of the
+houses, the method of cooking food, &c.
+
+As we emerged into the open country the landscape became very pretty,
+and the numerous villages, nestling in the valleys at the foot of the
+various small hills, had a most picturesque appearance. At a
+stone-quarry that we passed, on the side of a mountain, there were
+about seventy men at work, without any clothing, though the
+thermometer was far below freezing point. The Japanese are a sensitive
+nation, and finding that foreigners were astonished and shocked at the
+habits of the people, in going about without clothes, and in bathing
+in public and at their house doors, they passed a law prohibiting
+these customs in towns. In the country, however, the more primitive
+customs are still in force, and every dwelling has its half-open
+bath-house, whilst the people do as they like in the matter of
+clothing.
+
+After stopping twice on the road, to drink the inevitable tea, we
+changed from our carriage to _jinrikishas_, each drawn and pushed by
+four strong men, bowling along at a merry pace. The sun was very warm
+in the sheltered valleys, and the abundance of evergreens of all kinds
+quite deluded one into the belief that it was summer time, especially
+as camellias grew like forest trees, covered with red and white bloom,
+amidst a dense tangle of bamboos and half-hardy palms. There were many
+strange things upside down to be seen on efther hand--horses and cows
+with bells on their tails instead of on their necks, the quadrupeds
+well clothed, their masters without a scrap of covering, tailors
+sewing from them instead of to them, a carpenter reversing the action
+of his saw and plane. It looked just as if they had originally learned
+the various processes in 'Alice's Looking-glass World' in some former
+stage of their existence.
+
+We had not long left the town before our men began to undress each
+other; for their clothes were so tight that it required no
+inconsiderable effort to remove them. Some of them were beautifully
+tattooed. My wheeler had the root of a tree depicted on one foot, from
+which sprang the trunk and branches, spreading gradually, until on his
+back and chest they bore fruit and flowers, amongst which birds were
+perched. On his other leg was a large stork, supposed, I imagine, to
+be standing under the shadow of the same tree. Another man had human
+figures tattooed all over him, in various attitudes.
+
+[Illustration: A Drag across the Sand in a Jinrikisha.]
+
+In less than an hour we reached the narrow strip of land which at low
+water connects the island or peninsula of Inoshima with the mainland.
+This isthmus was covered with natives gathering shells and seaweed,
+casting their nets, and pushing off or dragging up their boats; whilst
+an island rose fresh and green from the sea, with a background of
+snowy mountains, stretching across the bay, above which Fujiyama
+towered grandly. This name signifies 'not two, but one mountain,' the
+Japanese thinking it impossible that there can be another like it in
+the world. The lovely little island is called Inoshima, and is conical
+in shape and covered with evergreens and Buddhist temples, with a few
+small fishing villages scattered on its shores. We walked right across
+it in about an hour; so you may imagine it is not very large. The sea
+teems with curiously shaped fish and beautiful shells. The staple food
+of the inhabitants seems to be those lovely 'Venus's ears,' [17] as
+they are called--a flattish univalve, about as big as your hand, with
+a row of holes along the edge, and a lining of brilliant black
+mother-of-pearl. These were lying about in heaps mixed with white
+mother-of-pearl shells, as big as your two fists, and shaped like a
+snail-shell.
+
+[Footnote 17: Haliotis.]
+
+[Illustration: Inoshima by a Japanese Artist.]
+
+Our _jinrikisha_ men deposited us at the bottom of the main street of
+the principal village, to enter which we passed through a simple
+square arch of a temple. The street was steep and dirty, and consisted
+principally of shell-fish and seaweed shops.
+
+An old priest took us in hand, and, providing us with stout sticks,
+marched us up to the top of the hill to see various temples, and
+splendid views in many directions. The camellias and evergreens on the
+hillside made a lovely framework for each little picture, as we turned
+and twisted along the narrow path. I know not how many steps on the
+other side of the island had to be descended before the sea-beach was
+reached. Here is a cavern stretching 500 feet straight below
+high-water mark, with a shrine to Benton Sama, the Lucina of Japan;
+and having been provided with candles, we proceeded a few hundred feet
+through another cave, running at right angles to the first.
+
+As it would have been a long steep walk back, and I was very tired, we
+called to one of the numerous fishing boats near the shore, and were
+quickly conveyed round to our original starting place. Before we said
+good-bye, one of the old priests implored to be allowed to dive into
+the water for half-a-dollar. His request was complied with, and he
+caught the coin most successfully.
+
+[Illustration: A Boatman]
+
+We lunched at a tea-house, our meal consisting of fish of all kinds,
+deliciously cooked, and served, fresh from the fire, in a style worthy
+of Greenwich; and as we had taken the precaution to bring some bread
+and wine with us, we were independent of the usual rice and _saki_.
+
+[Illustration: Our Luncheon Bill.]
+
+After this we proceeded on our way towards the Daibutz, or Great
+Buddha, situated within the limits of what was once the large city of
+Kama-kura, now only a collection of small hamlets. As all Japanese
+cities are built of wood, it is not wonderful that they should in time
+entirely disappear, and leave no trace behind them. But there still
+remain some of the columns of the temple which once existed in the
+gardens surrounding the idol. Now he is quite alone; and for centuries
+has this grand old figure sat, exposed to the elements, serenely
+smiling on the varying scene beneath him. The figure is of bronze, and
+is supposed to have been cast about the year 1250 or 1260.
+
+It is some 50 ft. high, with golden eyes and a silver spiral horn on
+the forehead. It is possible to sit or stand on the thumb, and within
+the hollow body an altar is erected, at which the priests officiate.
+Sitting there, amidst a grove of enormous cryptomerias and bamboos,
+there is an air of ineffable silent strength about that solitary
+figure, which affords a clue to the tenacity with which the poorer
+classes cling to Buddhism. The very calmness of these figures must be
+more suggestive of relief and repose to the poor weary worshippers
+than the glitter of the looking-glass and crystal ball to be found in
+the Shintoo temples. The looking-glass is intended to remind believers
+that the Supreme Being can see their innermost thoughts as clearly as
+they can perceive their own reflection; while the crystal ball is an
+emblem of purity. Great store is set by the latter, especially if of
+large size and without flaw; but to my mind the imperfect ones are the
+best, as they refract the light and do not look so much like glass.
+
+In another village close by--also part of the ancient Kama-kura--there
+is a fine temple, dedicated to the God of War; but we were pressed
+for time, and hurried back to the little carriages. The homeward drive
+was long and cold; but the Tokaido looked very pretty lighted up,
+the shadows of the inmates being plainly visible on the paper
+walls, reminding one of a scene in a pantomime. On our way down a
+very steep hill we met the men carrying a _cango_. It is a most
+uncomfortable-looking basket-work contrivance, in which it is
+impossible to sit or lie with ease. These _cangoes_ used formerly to
+be the ordinary conveyance of Japan, but they are now replaced by the
+_jinrikishas_, and they are seldom met with, except in the mountains
+or in out-of-the-way places.
+
+_Friday, February 2nd_.--I was called at five o'clock, and at
+half-past six Mabelle and I started for the market. It was blowing a
+gale, and our four oarsmen found it as much as they could do to reach
+the shore. The Shanghai mail-boat was just in, and I pitied the poor
+passengers, who were in all the misery of being turned out into the
+cold of the early morning, with the spray breaking over them as they
+sat in the small boats.
+
+The market at Yokohama is one of the sights of the place. There were
+large quantities of birds and game of all kinds--pheasants with tails
+six feet long, of a rare copper-coloured variety, ducks, pigeons,
+small birds, hares, deer, rabbits. The fish-market was well supplied,
+especially with cuttle-fish. They are not inviting-looking, but are
+considered a delicacy here. A real octopus, in a basket, with its
+hideous body in the centre, and its eight arms, covered with suckers,
+arranged in the form of a star, is worth from a dollar to a dollar and
+a half, according to its size. I was not tempted, however, to make any
+purchases.
+
+From the market we went to one or two small shops in back streets, and
+thence over the bluffs, in the teeth of a bitterly cold wind, to a
+nursery garden, to examine the results of the Japanese art of dwarfing
+and distorting trees. Some of the specimens were very curious and some
+beautiful, but most were simply hideous. We saw tiny old gnarled
+fruit-trees, covered with blossom, and Scotch firs and other forest
+trees, eight inches high, besides diminutive ferns and creepers.
+
+It being now half-past nine o'clock, we went to the hotel to meet the
+rest of the party for breakfast, and at one o'clock we returned to the
+yacht. At half-past one Lady Parkes and several other friends from
+Tokio came on board to luncheon. They told of three disastrous fires
+that had taken place in Tokio yesterday, by which the Home Office--one
+of the finest old Tartar _yashgis_--and several smaller edifices had
+been destroyed.
+
+After the departure of our guests we paid another visit to the shore,
+and saw the foxhounds. They are a nice pack, and have good kennels
+outside the foreign settlement. They were out this morning at 6.30,
+but unfortunately we did not know of it. There are plenty of foxes,
+and some very fair country not far from here; so they expect to have
+good sport.
+
+We weighed anchor at 8.30 p.m. and proceeded under steam. At 11.30,
+when off Touraya-saki, we set some of the head canvas. It was a cold
+night, with sleet and snow, though it was not blowing as hard as
+during the day.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+KIOTO, LATE MIACO.
+
+    _Manners with fortunes, humours change with climes,_
+    _Tenets with books, and principles with times._
+
+
+_Saturday, February 3rd_.--The occasional glimpses of the coast
+scenery through the sleet and snow were very fine. We passed Rocky
+Island, Lady Inglis rocks, and Matoya. But Mabelle and I spent most of
+the day in bed; she suffering from a blow from the boom, which had
+produced slight concussion of the brain, and I having a wretched cold,
+which has been gradually getting worse the last few days, and which
+has quite taken away my voice.
+
+_Sunday, February 4th_.--It was blowing hard all day, raining,
+snowing, and sleeting. The scenery appeared to be pretty, and we
+passed through crowds of picturesque junks.
+
+At 4.25 we rounded Tomamgai Smia, and at 9 p.m. anchored off the town
+of Kobe, or Hiogo.
+
+These constant changes of names are very puzzling. Miaco and Yeddo,
+which we did know something about, are quite cut out, and replaced by
+Kioto and Tokio. Oddly enough, the same syllables, reversed, mean
+capital of the Western Empire and capital of the Eastern Empire
+respectively.
+
+_Monday, February 5th_.--By seven o'clock a boat was alongside with
+letters from the Consul and Sir Harry Parkes, who had kindly made all
+the necessary arrangements for us to see the opening of the railway
+from Kobe to Kioto, and for the presentation of the gentlemen to the
+Mikado.
+
+It certainly was a great opportunity for seeing a Japanese holiday
+crowd, all dressed in their best. Thousands and thousands of people
+were in the streets, who, though naturally anxious to see as much as
+possible, behaved in the most quiet and orderly manner. The station
+was beautifully decorated with evergreens, camellias, and red berries.
+Outside there was a most marvellous pavilion, the woodwork of which
+had been entirely covered with evergreens, and ornamented with
+life-size dragons and phoenixes (the imperial insignia of Japan), all
+made in flowers. The roof was studded with large chrysanthemums--the
+private device of the Mikado, that of the Tycoon being three hollyhock
+leaves. The sides of the pavilion were quite open, the roof being
+simply supported on pillars; so that we could see everything that went
+on, both inside and out. The floor was covered with red cloth; the
+daïs with an extremely ugly Brussels carpet, with a large pattern. On
+this the Mikado's throne was placed, with a second canopy above it.
+Tom in R.N.R. uniform, the other gentlemen in evening dress,
+accompanied the Consul on to the platform to receive the Mikado; while
+the children and I went with Mrs. Annesley to seats reserved for the
+foreign representatives. There were not many Europeans present; but
+the platform was densely crowded with Japanese, sitting on their
+heels, and patiently waiting to see the extraordinary sight of their
+hitherto invisible spiritual Emperor brought to them by a steam engine
+on an iron road. The men had all had their heads fresh shaven, and
+their funny little pigtails rearranged for the occasion. The women's
+hair was elaborately and stiffly done up with light tortoiseshell
+combs and a large pin, and decorated with artificial flowers. Some of
+the children were gaily dressed in red and gold under garments, the
+prevailing colour of the costumes being dark blue, turned up with red.
+They also wore gay embroidered _obis_, or large sashes, which are put
+on in a peculiar fashion. They are of great width, and are fastened
+tightly round the waist, while an enormous bow behind reaches from
+between the shoulders to far below the hips. The garments fit tightly
+in front, while at the back they form a sort of huge bunch. On their
+high-heeled clogs the women walk with precisely the same gait as
+ladies in high-heeled boots. In fact, so exactly do the Japanese women
+(you never see Japanese _ladies_ walking about in the streets)
+caricature the present fashionable style of dress in Europe, that I
+have formed a theory of my own on the subject, and this is it.
+
+Some three or four years ago, among other proposed reforms in Japan,
+the Ministers wished the Empress and her Court to be dressed in
+European fashion. Accordingly a French milliner and dressmaker, with
+her assistants, was sent for from Paris, and in due time arrived. The
+Empress and her ladies, however, would not change their style of
+dress. They knew better what suited them, and in my opinion they were
+very sensible. This is what I hear. Now what I think is, that the
+Parisienne, being of an enterprising turn of mind, thought that she
+would not take so long a journey for nothing--that if the Japanese
+ladies would not follow European fashions, at least European ladies
+should adopt the Japanese style. On her return to Paris I am convinced
+that she promulgated this idea, and gradually gave it effect. Hence
+the fashions of the last two years.
+
+Watching the crowd occupied the time in a most interesting manner,
+till the firing of guns and the playing of bands announced the arrival
+of the imperial train. The Mikado was received on the platform, and
+after a very short delay he headed the procession along the covered
+way on to the daïs.
+
+He is a young, not very good-looking man, with rather a sullen
+expression, and legs that look as though they did not belong to
+him--I suppose from using them so little, and sitting so much on his
+heels; for until the last few years the Mikado has always been
+considered far too sacred a being to be allowed to set foot on the
+earth. He was followed by his highest Minister, the foreign Ministers,
+and a crowd of Japanese dignitaries, all, with one or two exceptions,
+in European official dress, glittering with gold lace. I believe it
+was the first time that many of them had ever worn it. At any rate,
+they certainly had never learned to put it on properly. It would have
+driven to distraction the tailor who made them, to see tight-fitting
+uniforms either left unbuttoned altogether, or hooked askew from top
+to bottom, and to behold the trousers turned up and disfigured by the
+projecting tags of immense side-spring boots, generally put on the
+wrong feet. Some of the visitors had no gloves, while others wore them
+with fingers at least three inches too long. Certainly a court dresser
+as well as a court tailor ought to be appointed to the Mikado's
+establishment, before the European costume becomes generally adopted.
+
+I could not help thinking that the two or three old conservative
+Ministers who had stuck to their native dress must have congratulated
+themselves on their firmness, when they saw the effect of the
+unaccustomed garments upon their _confrères_. The old court dress of
+the Daimios is very handsome, consisting of rich silks and brocades,
+with enormously long loose trousers trailing two or three feet on the
+ground, and with sleeves, like butterfly wings, of corresponding
+dimensions. A small high-peaked black cap is worn on the head, to
+accommodate the curious little cut-off pigtail, set up like a cock's
+comb, which appears to be one of the insignia of a Daimio's rank in
+Japan.
+
+As soon as the people had arranged themselves into three sides of a
+square, Sir Harry Parkes read an address, and presented his five
+compatriots to the Mikado, who replied in inaudible but no doubt
+suitable terms. Then the Governor of Kobe had to read an address, and
+I pitied the poor man from the bottom of my heart. His knees shook,
+his hands trembled, and his whole body vibrated to such an extent,
+that his cocked hat fell and rolled on the floor of the daïs, and
+finally hopped down the steps, while the address nearly followed its
+example. How thankful he must have felt when it was over!
+
+The proceedings in the pavilion being now at an end, the Mikado walked
+down the middle of the assembly, followed by all his Ministers in
+single file, on his way to the luncheon tent. After they had gone, we
+inspected the imperial railway carriage, the soldiers, guns, &c., and
+just as we were leaving the station yard, to look at the daylight
+fireworks they were letting off in honour of the occasion, a salute
+announced the departure of the Mikado for Kioto.
+
+We lunched at the Consulate, our gentlemen changed to more comfortable
+attire, and then we went to see a Buddhist temple, supposed to be
+rather a fine specimen of woodwork. It is specially curious on account
+of some monkeys and a white horse, each kept in a sort of side shrine.
+Every worshipper at the temple stopped before these shrines, and for a
+small coin bought rice or beans to feed them with, through the priest.
+Whether it was an act of worship, or simply of kindness, I could not
+discover, though I paid several visits to the spot during our stay at
+Kobe.
+
+From the temple we went to the shops in the main street of Hiogo, and
+full of interest and temptation we found them. The town itself is
+quite Japanese, and consists, as usual, of wooden houses, narrow
+streets, and quaint shops. To-day all was _en fête_, in preparation
+for the illuminations to-night.
+
+Kobe, the foreign settlement, is, on the contrary, bran-new, spick and
+span, with a handsome parade, and grass and trees, planted boulevard
+fashion, along the edge of the sea. It is all remarkably clean, but
+quite uninteresting. To-night, however, it looked very well,
+illuminated by thousands and thousands of coloured paper lanterns,
+arranged in all sorts of fanciful devices. It was dark and clear, and
+there was no wind, so that everything went off well.
+
+[Illustration: a family group]
+
+_Tuesday, February 6th_.--My cold being still bad, Mabelle by no means
+well yet, and Tom very busy, we at first thought of keeping quiet
+to-day. But our time is so short, that we could not afford to waste
+it; so half our party started early for Kioto, it being arranged that
+Tom and Mabelle should follow us by an early train to-morrow. It was a
+wet cheerless day, and the country did not look its best. Still, the
+novelty of the scenes around could not fail to make them interesting.
+The Japanese have an intense horror of rain, and it was ludicrous to
+see the peasants walking along with scarcely any clothes on except a
+pair of high clogs, a large hat, and a paper umbrella. We crossed
+several large bridges, stopped at a great many stations, where heaps
+of native travellers got in and out, and finally reached Kioto at
+half-past two o'clock. It was still raining, and all the _jinrikisha_
+men wore their large rain hats and rain cloaks, made either of reeds
+or of oiled paper. Most of the _jinrikishas_, too, had oiled paper
+hoods and aprons.
+
+The drive to our hotel, through long, narrow, crowded, picturesque
+streets, seemed long and wearisome. It was still a holiday, and
+remains of the previous night's illuminations were to be seen on all
+sides. The large paper lanterns still remained fastened to the high
+poles, with an open umbrella at the top to afford protection from the
+rain.
+
+Kioto is a thoroughly Japanese town. I do not suppose it contains a
+single European resident; so that the manners and customs of the
+natives may be seen in perfection. Its theatres and jugglers are
+famous throughout Japan. In the suburb, where the two hotels are
+situated, stand numberless tea-houses and other places of
+entertainment. Our hotel is situated half-way up the hill called
+Maruyama.
+
+After about three-quarters of an hour's ride in the _jinrikiska_, we
+were deposited at the bottom of a flight of steps, which appeared to
+lead to a temple, but by which we reached the hotel in about five
+minutes. We were received by servants, who bowed to the ground, but
+who did not speak a word which we could understand. The rooms looked
+clean and comfortable, and the dining-room boasted a table and six
+chairs, besides several screens and _hibatchis_. The bedrooms, too,
+had beds, screens, and washstands; quite an unexpected luxury. Still
+more so was a strip of glass about half-way up the screens, through
+which we could admire the fine prospect. Anything in the shape of a
+transparent window is a complete novelty in a Japanese house, where,
+in winter, you feel as if you were imprisoned. The view from the
+verandah of the hotel over the pretty fantastic garden, the temple
+grounds, the town of Kioto, and the mountains in the distance was an
+endless source of delight to me.
+
+The servants soon produced a luncheon, excellently well cooked; and'
+directly we had finished it we sallied forth again to see what we
+could before dark. First we went to the temple of Gion, a fine
+building, standing in extensive grounds, and surrounded by smaller
+temples and houses for the priests. The Dutch envoys used to stay here
+when they were brought through the country, like prisoners, to pay
+their annual tribute for being allowed to trade with Japan. They were
+subjected to all kinds of indignities, and used to be made to dance
+and sing, pretend to be drunk, and play all sorts of pranks, for the
+amusement of the whole court as well as for the Mikado and the
+empress, hidden behind a grating.
+
+From Gion we went to see other temples, and wandered about under the
+large conifers of all kinds, trying to find out the quarters of the
+British Legation for some time, until Sir Harry Parkes returned. The
+rooms at his residence were comfortable, but cold-looking, for mats
+and paper screens do not look nice in a frost. There were tables and
+chairs and paraffin lamps, but no bedsteads, only about a dozen cotton
+and silk quilts, some of which were supposed to serve as a couch,
+while others were to be used as coverings.
+
+Sir Harry has had, I fear, a great deal of trouble about the yacht.
+She is the first vessel of the kind ever seen in Japan, with the
+exception of the one sent out in 1858 as a present from the Queen to
+the then Tycoon, and now used by the Mikado. The officials, it seems,
+cannot make the 'Sunbeam' out. 'Is she a man-of-war? We know what that
+is.' 'No.' 'Is she a merchant ship?' 'No; she is a yacht.' But what
+can be the object of a vessel without guns is quite beyond their
+comprehension. At last it has been settled that, in order to be like
+other nations, the Japanese officials will not force us to enter at
+the Custom House, or to pay a fine of sixty dollars a day for not
+doing so. As a matter of precedent, it was important that the point
+should be settled, though I hardly imagine that many yachts will
+follow our example, and come out to Japan through the Straits of
+Magellan and across the Pacific.
+
+As it was now growing late, we returned to the hotel for dinner. The
+night was cold, and _hibatchis_ and lamps alike failed to warm the
+thinly walled and paper-screened room.
+
+Sir Harry Parkes came and spent the evening with us, and taught us
+more about Japan in two or three hours than we could have learned by
+much study of many books. The fact is, that in this fast-changing
+country guide-books get out of date in two or three years. Besides
+which, Sir Harry has been one of the chief actors in many of the most
+prominent events we have recently been reading about. To hear him
+describe graphically the wars of 1868, and the Christian persecutions
+in 1870, with the causes that led to the revolution, and the effect it
+has had on the country, was indeed interesting. Still more so was his
+account of his journey hither to force the newly emerged Mikado and
+his Ministers to sign the treaty, which had already received the
+assent (of course valueless) of the deposed Tycoon.
+
+_Wednesday, February 7th_.--A misty but much warmer morning succeeded
+a wet night. At 8.30 Sir Harry Parkes and two other gentlemen arrived,
+and we all started at once in jinrikishas to see what could be seen in
+the limited time at our disposal. We went first to the temple of Gion
+Chiosiu, described elaborately in books by other travellers. It is
+specially interesting to Europeans, as it was the temple assigned to
+the foreign envoys when they paid their first visit to the Mikado in
+1868. Sir Harry Parkes showed us all their apartments, and the large
+though subsidiary temple once used as a hospital, and we afterwards
+went to see the service performed in the temple. A dozen bonzes, or
+priests, were sitting round in a circle, chanting monotonously from
+ponderous volumes, with an occasional accompaniment from a gong or
+drum. Incense was being burned, vestments worn, processions formed,
+and prayers offered to Buddha to intercede with the Supreme Being. The
+accessories and surroundings were of course different, but the
+ceremonial struck me as being much the same as that in use at Roman
+Catholic places of worship. Mr. Simpson, however, thinks differently.
+He says:
+
+'I was only a month in Japan, and that is far too short a time for
+anything like serious study; but I was much struck by the temples, and
+I find I have some notes in my book comparing them with the Jewish.
+How any direct connection could possibly exist, is far beyond my
+powers of conjecture; but I will state the points of resemblance, and
+leave others to inquire further and collect additional information.
+Wood and bronze to this day furnish the material of which temples are
+constructed in Japan, with stone as a base. Such also were the
+materials of Solomon's temple. There are enclosures round each court
+or shrine, and sometimes these courts are three in number. Hills or
+groves are usually sites for a temple, the ascent to which is by a
+long flight of steps; usually two flights give access to the shrine.
+One is long, straight, and steep, for the men; the other, less steep,
+but curved, is for the women. It will be remembered that it was the
+great stairs at Solomon's temple that so impressed the Queen of Sheba.
+Small shrines or miniature temples, called Tenno Samma, or "Heaven's
+Lord," are carried on staves, like the Ark of the Covenant, at their
+religious ceremonies. The inner shrine, or Holy of Holies, is small,
+and a cube, or nearly so, in proportion. It is usually detached behind
+the other portions of the temple, the door being closed, so that it
+cannot be seen into, and it generally contains, not an image, but a
+tablet, or what the Japanese call a "Gohei," or piece of paper, cut so
+that it hangs down in folds on each side. In the early days of
+writing, a tablet was a book, a stylus the pen. The stone on which the
+law was inscribed was only a form of the book, and the Chinese
+ancestral tablet, or other tablet, in a temple, is only a variety of
+this book form. These "Goheis" are so common in Japan, and occupy so
+important a place in all their temples, that I had a great desire to
+know what they originally meant; but as on many questions of this kind
+I could get no information, the only suggestion which presented itself
+to me was, that it might be some form of the book, for the book was a
+very sacred thing in past time, and that which is yet called the
+"Ark," in a Jewish synagogue, contains now nothing but a book. There
+is a distinct priesthood who wear vestments, and they use incense,
+music, and bells. There are two religions in Japan, Buddhism and
+Shintooism; the latter being the primitive faith, and the former an
+importation from China. The forms of the two have become slightly
+mixed, both in the construction of their temples and in the
+ceremonial; but the remarks I have just made apply particularly to the
+Shintoo religion.'
+
+One of the late acts of the government has been to declare the
+Shintoo, as the old religion of the country, to be the only State
+faith. This is the disestablishment of Buddhism, but it does not imply
+its suppression. The Buddhist priests complain very much, saying that
+their temples are not now so popular, and many are being closed.
+Speculators are buying up their fine bronze bells, and sending them
+home to be coined into English pennies and halfpennies. Changes in
+faith present many strange aspects, and this is certainly a curious
+one.
+
+We strolled about the temple grounds, and ascended the hill to see the
+famous bell, which is the second biggest in Japan. The immense beam
+which strikes it was unlashed from the platform for our edification,
+and the bell sent forth a magnificent sound, pealing over the city and
+through the woods. At one of the gates there is a curious staircase,
+leading up to the top, and there, over the gate, is seated a figure of
+Buddha, surrounded by twelve disciples, all carved in wood and
+coloured. They are quite worth a scramble up to see.
+
+From Chiosiu we went right across the city to the temple of Nishni
+Hongangi. On our way we were more than once stopped and turned off the
+direct road, which was kept by soldiers for the passage of the Mikado
+to worship at the tombstone of his innumerable ancestors, real or
+imaginary. Being a spiritual Emperor, he has to be well kept up to
+his religious duties, and is always being sent off to worship at some
+shrine or another, in order to maintain his popularity with the
+people, his Ministers meanwhile managing the affairs of state. Tanjo
+and Ikawura went off in haste to-day to Tokio, as there are rumours of
+a rebellion in the south.
+
+Nishni Hongangi is one of the largest and finest temples we have yet
+seen, even in spite of a large portion having been destroyed by the
+disastrous fire of 1864. The gates are splendidly ornamented, with
+carved chrysanthemum flowers. The centre temple is very fine, and is
+surrounded by smaller rooms, all decorated by the best Japanese
+artists of about two hundred years ago. Notice had been sent that the
+English Minister was coming with a party of friends, and everything
+had accordingly been prepared for our reception. In some places they
+had even put down carpets, to obviate the necessity of our having to
+take off our boots. The Abbot was out, which I much regretted, for he
+belongs to the Montos, the most advanced sect of Buddhism, and has
+more than once remarked to English visitors that he thought their own
+principles were so enlightened that they were paving the way for a
+higher form of religion, in the shape of Christianity--rather a
+startling confession to come from the lips of a Buddhist priest.
+
+After spending a long time among the paintings, wood-carvings,
+lacquers, bronzes, and gardens, we left the temple, and crossed
+several court-yards, before the main street was reached. Then, after a
+short walk, we came to another beautiful garden, laid out like a
+miniature park, with lakes, bridges, rocks, streams, canals,
+pavilions, &c. All these surround a house built by the celebrated
+Tycoon, Tako Sama, in the fifteenth century. Here, again, everything
+was prepared for our reception. Fires were lighted, flowers arranged,
+carpets laid down, and fruit and cakes placed in readiness, with
+_hibatchis_ to warm each and all of us. We went all over the house,
+which differs little from a Japanese house of the present day, except
+that a higher style of art was employed in its construction and
+decoration.
+
+From here we went to quite another quarter of the city to see what was
+formerly the Tycoon's palace, now used as a sort of police office. It
+is built on the same plan of three enclosures as all the _yashgis_,
+though on a very different scale from the one at Tokio. There, the
+Tycoon reigns in undisturbed sovereignty. Here, he appears as a humble
+servant of his rightful master--really his prisoner. The late Tycoon,
+after the last battle, fought at this place, fled to his castle at
+Osaka, where, though he might have held out for an indefinite period,
+he preferred to surrender. Two of his Ministers came to him and
+represented that he must not only think of himself, but of the party
+who supported the Shogunate, and that as he had betrayed them by false
+hopes he had no choice but to perform Hara-kiru. This he refused to
+do, although they set him the example; and he is now living as a
+private individual on an estate in the country, not far from Tokio,
+where he amuses himself with hunting, shooting, and fishing. It is
+said that it is possible he may one day join the ministry of the
+present Mikado.
+
+From the Tycoon's palace we drove to the 'Toshio,' or court quarter of
+the town, where the Mikado and all his relatives live, in palaces,
+surrounded by large gardens, enclosed in whitewashed walls. We saw the
+whole of Tako Sama's household furniture and wearing apparel, the
+celebrated swords of Yoritiome, called the 'knee-cutter' and the
+'beard-cutter,' from their wonderful sharpness, and many other
+interesting objects.
+
+Here we said good-bye to Sir Harry Parkes, and returned across the
+town by another route to our hotel to lunch, after which we made
+another expedition to one or two more temples, and then to a
+pawnbroker's shop, in the heart of the city, which had been strongly
+recommended to us. The exterior did not look promising; the shop
+itself was small and dirty; and they had to take some very filthy
+garments out of the way before we could enter. Once inside, however,
+it was a very different story. They showed us splendid old
+embroideries, and quantities of second-hand court dresses, embroidered
+in gold, silver, and colours, with exquisite designs. The Empress has
+thirteen ladies of honour, who wear their best dresses only twice, and
+then sell them: hence the pawnbrokers abundant stock.
+
+Wherever we went a large but perfectly civil crowd followed us, and
+people ran on before to tell others to come to their doors and look at
+us, though we were under the charge of an officer and two men. It was
+now getting dark, and we were very tired; so we at last turned back,
+and once more climbed those weary steps to our hotel. To-night there
+is some _fête_ going on in this suburb, and the whole place is alive
+with lights, dancing, music, and tum-tums.
+
+After dinner all our purchases arrived, each accompanied by at least
+four or five men. Other people had heard of our visit, and had brought
+more things for us to look at; so that the room soon resembled a
+bazaar. At last we got rid of them, having settled that they should
+pack our things and take them down to Kobe, where they would be paid
+for. The Japanese shopkeepers, though difficult to deal with, are
+incorruptible when once the bargain is made. They pack most carefully,
+frequently adding boxes, bags, and baskets, not originally included in
+the purchase, in order that the articles may travel more safely. The
+smallest article is sure to be put in, and the greatest care is taken
+of everything, even if they know you do not mean to open the cases for
+months.
+
+If it were only warmer, how delightful it would all be! The cold
+spoils everything to a certain extent. At night we have to choose
+whether to be half frozen in our beds, or stifled with the fumes of
+charcoal from the _hibatchis_.
+
+_Thursday, February 8th_.--The sunrise over the city, with the river
+and mountains beyond, was superb. We breakfasted at eight; but even by
+that hour the courtyard and passage were crowded with vendors of
+curiosities of all sorts, and no doubt great bargains might have been
+picked up. But we had no time to lose, for our train started at 9.30,
+and we had a delightfully rapid drive to the station through the sunny
+streets of Kioto.
+
+Arrived at Kobe, we went first to lunch with some friends, and
+immediately after hastened on board to receive the foreign Ministers
+and other friends; and did not land again that evening.
+
+_Friday, February 9th_.--We left by ten o'clock train for Osaka, which
+has been called the Venice of Japan. It is intersected by innumerable
+rivers and canals, and boats were continually making their appearance
+at points where they were least expected, as our _jinrikisha_ men
+hurried us along the narrow and not very sweet-smelling streets. We
+went so fast that, more than once before we reached the Mint, I
+thought we should have been tipped into one of the canals, as we
+turned a sharp corner. Our men upset the baskets and stalls that
+encroached on the road, in the most unceremonious manner; but their
+proprietors did not seem to mind, many of them quietly moving their
+wares out of the way as they heard the shouts that announced our
+approach. The smell in the fish-market was disgusting, and enough to
+poison the air for miles around, but the people did not seem to mind
+it in the least.
+
+At last we left the river and town, and, climbing a slight eminence,
+crossed the first moat by a stone bridge, and reached the guard-house
+on the other side. There was some hesitation at first about admitting
+us; but it was soon overcome. This castle, the last stronghold of the
+Tycoon, is built on exactly the same plan as the _yashgis_ we had
+already visited, but much stronger, being composed of enormous blocks
+of stone. One wonders how human labour could ever have transported
+them from their quarry to this place, for some measured 40 ft. long by
+20 ft. high. We crossed the three moats and the three enclosures, now
+all full of barracks and soldiers. In the very centre, the old well
+and a little square tower are still standing, part of the Tycoon's
+original residence, which was destroyed by fire. The view from the top
+over the town and surrounding country is very fine. You can see
+countless streams coming from the mountains, and flowing into
+Odawarra, on which Osaka is situated. The course of the river itself
+could be traced to the bay; and the line of coast to Kobe, and the
+far-off mountains in the Inland Sea were plainly visible.
+
+On returning to the Mint we found luncheon awaiting us, and afterwards
+spent a pleasant time looking at a wonderful collection of curios.
+
+The Imperial Mint of Japan is a large handsome building, in great
+force just now, for the whole of the old money is being called in and
+replaced by the government. The contrast between the two moneys is
+very great. The ancient coinage consisted of long thin oval obangs and
+shobangs, worth from two dollars to eighteen pounds each, square
+silver itzeboos, and square copper pieces, with a hole in the centre;
+while that which is taking its place is similar to European coinage,
+and is marked in English characters, and ornamented with Japanese
+devices, such as the phoenix and the dragon. It did not seem worth
+while to go minutely over the Mint, as it is arranged on exactly the
+same principle as the one in London, and the processes are carried out
+in the same manner.
+
+Osaka used to be the emporium of all the inland commerce, and was
+considered the pearl of Japanese cities. After the revolution, and
+when the Mint was built, there was some intention of making it the
+capital of the empire. That idea was, however, abandoned; and the
+inconvenience of having the Mint so far away from the seat of
+government is greatly felt, all the bullion having to be sent
+backwards and forwards at great expense by sea. Commerce has now
+almost deserted Osaka, owing to the difficulty experienced by large
+ships in anchoring near the town, and the impossibility of their
+crossing the bar. The foreign consuls and representatives have all
+left the place for the newly established settlement at Kobe, where
+they feel safer, with men-of-war at anchor just under their windows.
+
+[Illustration: Wayside Travellers.]
+
+There was just time to go round some of the old streets, and to some
+of the shops, before the hour by which we were due at the station.
+Osaka is famous for its waxworks and theatres. Five of the best of
+these have, however, been burnt down within the last eighteen months,
+with terrible loss of life. We heard that a short time ago there was
+nearly being serious trouble, in consequence of one of the managers
+having produced on the stage, in a most objectionable manner, a
+representation of the cruel and unprovoked assassination of an officer
+and two men, part of a boat's crew of a French ship. The English and
+French consuls went to the governor of the town, who promised that the
+piece should be stopped, and the obnoxious placards announcing the
+performance removed at once. But his instructions were not complied
+with, for the next day the piece was again performed, and the placards
+were still there. Some French sailors, luckily accompanied by their
+officers, saw the latter and wanted to tear them down; but they were
+persuaded to wait while the consuls were telegraphed for. They came at
+once, and again saw the governor, who sent some soldiers to stop the
+play and remove the bills; and so the affair ended peaceably.
+
+We reached Kobe about seven o'clock, and went on board at once to
+dinner.
+
+_Saturday, February 10th_.--We were to have gone early this morning to
+Arrima, a village in the mountains, situated among groves of bamboos,
+where there are mineral springs and a hot-water bath, in which people
+bathe in the old style. But the weather was impossibly bad for our
+intended expedition, with showers of snow and sleet. We waited till
+half-past eleven, and then landed and talked of going to Osaka again
+by train; but finally decided that even this was not practicable, and
+that we had better stay and potter about at Kobe and Hiogo. The
+children set out to buy toys, whilst I went with a lady to pay another
+visit to the white horse and monkeys at the temple, and then walked on
+to a waterfall, prettily situated in a ravine, a little way behind the
+town. We afterwards visited several pawnbrokers' shops, at all of
+which there was something interesting to be seen. Many are perfect
+museums; but their proprietors never seem to care much to show you
+what they have, unless you are accompanied by a resident or some one
+they know. Then they invite you into the iron fire-proof 'godown' or
+store, at the back, and out of funny little boxes and bags and parcels
+produce all sorts of rare and curious things which have been sent to
+them to be sold, or which they may possibly have bought themselves. It
+is not of the slightest use to go to the large shops, full of things,
+if you want anything really good, for you will only find there
+articles specially prepared for the European and American market.
+
+I am very glad to hear that Dr. Dresser is here, collecting,
+lecturing, and trying to persuade the Japanese to adhere to their own
+forms and taste in art and decoration. It is a great pity to observe
+the decadence of native art, and at the same time to see how much
+better the old things are than the new. A true Japanese artist never
+repeats himself, and consequently never makes an exact pair of
+anything. His designs agree generally, and his vases are more or less
+alike, without being a precise match. He throws in a spray of flowers,
+a bird, or a fan, as the fancy strikes him, and the same objects are
+therefore never placed in exactly the same relative position. Modern
+articles are made precisely alike, not only in pairs, but by the dozen
+and the hundred.
+
+There are beautiful bantams to be seen in some of the shops here; but
+they cannot be bought, as they are private pets. They seem generally
+very small, and one I saw to-day had his head far behind his tail,
+which divided in the middle outwards, and fell forward on either side
+of his neck in the most extraordinary way. How he picked up his food
+and got through life, I am sure I don't know. There are plenty of
+little Japanese dogs; but they are not seen to advantage this cold
+weather, and there would be great difficulty in getting them home.
+
+I bought some fine bantams at Yokohama, and a whole cage full of
+rice-birds. They are the dearest little things, and spend most of the
+day bathing and twittering, occasionally getting all together into one
+nest, with their twenty-five heads peeping out. They are exactly like
+a magnified grain of rice, with legs and a bill. I hope I shall take
+them home alive, as they have borne the cold very well so far. We have
+also some mandarin ducks on board, and some gold and silver fish with
+two tails. Our sailors have over a hundred birds of their own, which
+never appear on deck, except on very sunny days. I don't know where
+they can keep them, unless they stow them away in their Japanese
+cabinets.
+
+We went on board about dark, and a few friends came to dinner.
+
+_Sunday, February 11th_.--About 7 a.m., two Japanese officers came on
+board with a message which nobody could understand. When we went on
+deck, we saw that all the ships were dressed, and concluded that we
+had been asked to do the same; but we thought it better to send ashore
+to ascertain positively. The next difficulty was to get a Japanese
+flag. Tom went on board the 'Thabor,' a Japanese ship, to borrow one,
+and found everything was in bustle and confusion, news having arrived
+from Kiusiu that the rebels were mustering in great force, and that
+they had seized some ships. The 'Thabor,' 'Mihu Maru,' and three
+others, are therefore to go through the Inland Sea to Nagasaki this
+afternoon.
+
+The Japanese admiral sent word early this morning that he would come
+on board at two o'clock with some of his captains, and the French
+admiral also expressed a hope that it would be convenient to receive
+him and his captains at three. Their visits occupied nearly all the
+afternoon. We afterwards landed with the French admiral, paid some
+farewell visits, and went to look at a collection of old lacquer and
+Satsuma china, before we returned to the yacht.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+THE INLAND SEA.
+
+    _Dipped in the lines of sunset, wreathed in zones,_
+    _The clouds are resting on their mountain thrones;_
+    _One peak alone exalts its glacier crest,_
+    _A golden paradise above the rest._
+    _Thither the day with lingering steps retires,_
+    _And in its own blue element expires._
+
+_Monday, February 12th_.--Fires were lighted at 4 a.m., and by six we
+were steaming slowly out of the beautiful bay of Kobe. It was a cold
+bright morning, with a strong head wind, increasing every moment as we
+proceeded, until, in the straits of Akashi, it became almost
+impossible to make any way against it. There was not much sea, but the
+wind impeded our progress so much, that it was at last reduced to one
+mile instead of nine an hour. The straits are very fine, and the old
+castle presents an admirable specimen of the architecture of a
+Daimio's residence.
+
+We proceeded across the Harima Nada, where we were more or less
+exposed to the open sea, and where we took more water on board than we
+had done in the gale before arriving at Yokohama. There were no big
+waves, but we rolled tremendously, and the spray came over us, though
+the mere force of the wind seemed to keep the sea down.
+
+After struggling until twelve o'clock, and having done but little good
+for the last three hours, Tom determined to run back, and in a short
+time we found ourselves once more at anchor in the harbour of Kobe. It
+was a work of considerable difficulty, owing to the strong wind and
+tide, to steer safely among the numerous vessels, and for a few
+minutes we thought we were aground, as we did not make the slightest
+progress, though the engines were working ahead full speed. The
+proveedor's boat came out to us as soon as we were perceived, and we
+landed in her; but it was as much as the six stout oarsmen could do to
+make way against the wind.
+
+We went for a walk, or rather a scramble, to the waterfall, half-way
+up to the Temple of the Moon. Much of the ground was covered with
+snow, the streams were frozen at the sides, and there were hanging
+icicles to be seen, six feet in length; and yet on either side were
+camellias and tea-trees covered with red and white blossoms,
+orange-trees, laden with fruit; gold-fish swimming about in ponds,
+overhung with maidenhair fern, besides pteris and hothouse ferns,
+shaded by bamboos, palms, and castor-oil plants. The order of
+vegetation seems to be as much reversed as everything else in this
+strange country. In England all those plants would require
+conservatories, or at least sheltered spots, and the greatest care,
+instead of being exposed to frost and snow.
+
+Getting on board again was even a more difficult business than landing
+had been; but we arrived at last without mishap.
+
+_Tuesday, February 13th_.--The wind dropped at sunset, and as it
+continued calm all night, Tom ordered fires to be lighted at 4 a.m. By
+six o'clock, however, it was blowing harder than ever, and we
+therefore decided to make an excursion to Arrima instead of attempting
+another start.
+
+We went ashore to make the necessary arrangements, and it was settled
+that we should start at ten o'clock, which we did, with the Consulate
+constable as our guide.
+
+We had three men to each _jinrikisha_, and went along at a merry pace
+through the long straggling towns of Kobe and Hiogo. The cold was
+intense, and before we started our poor _jinrikisha_ men were
+shivering until they nearly shook us out of the vehicles. Soon they
+were streaming with perspiration, and at our first halting-place they
+took off almost all their garments, though it was as much as we could
+do to keep warm in our furs and wraps. We waited while they partook
+copiously of hot tea and bowls of rice, and bought new straw shoes, or
+rather sandals, for less than a farthing a pair.
+
+To-day being the Japanese New Year's Day, all the little shrines in
+the houses and along the road were prettily decorated, and had
+offerings of rice, _saki_, and fruit deposited upon them. The spirits
+of the departed are supposed to come down and partake, not of the
+things themselves, but of the subtle invisible essence that rises from
+them. The road now became very pretty, winding through the valleys,
+climbing up and dipping down the various hills, and passing through
+picturesque villages, where all the people, leaving their meals or
+their games, came out to look at us, while some of the children
+scampered on to secure a good view of the foreigners, and others ran
+away frightened and screaming. They were all dressed in dark blue
+clothes, turned up with red, with bright embroidered _obis_ and
+flowers in their elaborately dressed hair. I have managed to get some
+dolls' wigs, which give a good idea of the various styles of
+hair-dressing.
+
+In rather more than three hours we reached Arrima, a village far more
+beautifully situated than any we had seen, in the very centre of the
+mountains, where a dozen valleys converge into one centre. On one side
+are mineral springs, on the other a river. Bamboos grow luxuriantly on
+all sides, and the inhabitants of the various valleys obtain their
+livelihood by manufacturing from them all sorts of articles: boxes for
+every conceivable purpose; baskets, fine and coarse, large and small,
+useful and ornamental, coloured and plain; brushes, pipes, battledores
+and shuttlecocks, sticks, spoons, knives and forks, sauce ladles,
+boats, lamps, cradles, &c.
+
+The first glimpse of the village is lovely; that from the bridge that
+crosses the river is still more so. We clambered up narrow streets,
+with quaint carved houses and overhanging balconies, till we reached a
+tea-house, kept by a closely shaven bonze, or priest. He seemed very
+pleased to see us, and bowed and shook hands over and over again. He
+placed his whole house at our disposal, and a very clean, pretty, and
+well-arranged house it was, with a lovely little formal garden,
+ornamented with mimic temples and bridges of ice, fashioned by the
+hard frost, with but little assistance from the hand of man. Bits of
+wood and stone, a few graceful fern-leaves and sprays of bamboo, and a
+trickling stream of water produced the most fairy-like crystalline
+effects imaginable. If only some good fairy could, with a touch of her
+wand, preserve it all intact until a few months hence, what a delight
+it would be in the hot summer weather!
+
+To-day the paper house was indeed cold; but even so slight a shelter
+from the bitter wind was acceptable, though we regretted the screens
+could not be opened to enable us to admire the prospect on all sides.
+The luncheon basket being quickly unpacked, the good priest warmed our
+food and produced a bottle of port wine, which he mulled for our
+benefit. Cheered and refreshed we proceeded on our way, leaving him
+much delighted with what seemed to us but a small recompense for his
+courtesy.
+
+Every house and shop in those narrow picturesque streets was a study
+in itself, and so were the quaint groups of people we met, and who
+gazed eagerly at us. We looked into the public baths, two oblong
+tanks, into which the mineral springs came bubbling up, thick and
+yellow, and strongly impregnated with iron, at a temperature of 112°.
+They are covered in, and there is a rough passage round them. Here, in
+the bathing season, people of both sexes stand in rows, packed as
+tight as herrings in a barrel, and there are just as many outside
+waiting their turn to enter. To-day there were only two bathers,
+immersed up to their chins in the steaming water. They had left all
+their clothes at home, and would shortly have to pass through the
+streets without any covering, notwithstanding the cold.
+
+[Illustration: Arrima. The Village of Bamboo Basket Work]
+
+From the baths we went to some of the best basket shops, where the
+beauty and cheapness of the articles exposed for sale offered great
+temptations. We had to disturb our _jinrikiska_ men, who were enjoying
+their frugal meal at a separate tea-house. It was beautifully served,
+and as clean and nicely cooked as possible, though consisting of
+viands which we might not have fancied, such as various kinds of fish,
+seaweed, sea-snails (_bêche de mer_), and rice. Each man had his own
+little table and eight or ten separate dishes, a bottle of _saki_,
+tea-pipe, and _hibatchi_, arranged exactly as ours had been at the
+tea-house at Yokohama. How well they managed their chop-sticks, how
+quickly they shovelled the food down, and how clean they left each
+dish! Habit is everything.
+
+We were anxious to make the best of our way home, and starting at
+four, with but a short stop at the halfway tea-house, we reached the
+hotel soon after seven, having taken less than an hour to come five
+miles over a very bad road, an inch deep in mud. So much for a
+'man-power carriage,' the literal translation of the word
+_jinrikisha_.[18] Soon after an excellent dinner we returned on board,
+so as to be ready for an early start to-morrow morning.
+
+[Footnote 18: Or 'pull-man-car,' as it is sometimes called.]
+
+_Wednesday, February 14th_.--We were called at 4 a.m. Fires were
+lighted, but before steam was up the wind had risen; so our start was
+once more postponed to the afternoon. We steamed out to the buoy, from
+among the shipping, in order to be able to get away more easily at
+night. The wind generally goes down at sunset, and Tom hoped that, by
+taking our departure then, we should get through the worst part of the
+Inland Sea before the wind again rose with the sun.
+
+After breakfast we went ashore, and dispersed in different directions,
+to meet again at the hotel for luncheon. Then we all again separated,
+the children going to the circus, whilst I took a drive, with a pair
+of black and white Hakodadi ponies, to the foot of the hills behind
+the town.
+
+It was a pleasant circuit by pretty valleys, and brought us back to
+the town by a different road. I went to pick up the children at the
+circus, and found them just coming out, with delighted faces, having
+most thoroughly enjoyed themselves. They went on board to tea, but
+Mabelle and I went with the Consul in _jinrikishas_ to a Japanese
+theatre at Hiogo. The streets were crowded with holiday-makers; for
+to-day is the first of the Chinese new year, as yesterday was the
+first of the Japanese new year. The floor of the theatre was crowded
+with people, all squatting on their heels, each with his or her
+chow-chow box and _hibatchi_ or brazier of burning charcoal to keep
+themselves warm. The performance frequently goes on for ten or twelve
+hours, with short intervals and whole families come and take up their
+abode at the theatre for twelve hours at a time. The acting was not
+at all bad, and the performers were beautifully dressed.
+
+We did not stay very long at the theatre, but were soon tearing back
+again through the streets to the Consulate. These quick rides in a
+_jinrikisha_, especially at night, are very amusing. You have the
+pleasure of going at a high speed, and yet, being on a level with the
+people, you can see much more of them and of their manners than would
+be possible in a carriage.
+
+When we reached the Consulate we found the chief of the police of the
+foreign settlement waiting for the Consul, to inform him that Japanese
+soldiers were patrolling the town with fixed bayonets, alleging that
+information had been sent to the Governor that some of the rebels were
+in the hills at the back of the town, and might appear at any moment.
+The ships-of-war were to be communicated with at once for the
+protection of the inhabitants. They do not expect a general attack
+here, but seem to think the rebels' plan is to creep up by degrees to
+Osaka, where the Mikado is shortly expected to stay, and take
+possession of his person and the imperial treasure at one blow.
+
+When I got on board the 'Sunbeam' again, I found that steam was up and
+all was ready for starting; but the wind was still strong against us,
+and it was evidently necessary again to wait until four o'clock
+to-morrow morning.
+
+We were rolling a good deal, and, coming along the engine-room
+passage, my foot slipped, a door banged to, and my thumb was caught in
+the hinge and terribly crushed. Dressing it was a very painful affair,
+as the doctor had to ascertain whether the bone was broken, and I
+fainted during the operation. At last I was carried to my cabin and
+put to bed, after taking a strong dose of chloral to soothe the
+agonising pain.
+
+_Thursday, February 15th_.--I wonder if anybody who has not
+experienced it can realise the stupefying, helpless sensation of being
+roused up from a sound sleep, in the middle of the night, on board
+ship, by the cry of 'Fire!' and finding oneself enveloped in a smoke
+so dense as to render everything invisible.
+
+[Illustration: The Yacht on Fire.]
+
+At 2.30 a.m. I was awakened by a great noise and a loud cry of 'The
+ship is on fire!' followed by Mr. Bingham rushing into our cabin to
+arouse us. At first I could hardly realise where we were, or what was
+happening, as I was half stupid with chloral, pain, and smoke, which
+was issuing from each side of the staircase in dense volumes. My first
+thought was for the children, but I found they had not been forgotten.
+Rolled up in blankets, they were already in transit to the deck-house.
+In the meantime Mr. Bingham had drenched the flames with every
+available jug of water, and Tom had roused the crew, and made them
+screw the hose on to the pump. They were afraid to open the hatches,
+to discover where the fire was, until the hose and _extincteurs_ were
+ready to work, as they did not know whether or not the hold was on
+fire, and the whole ship might burst into a blaze the moment the air
+was admitted. Allen soon appeared with an _extincteur_ on his back,
+and the mate with the hose. Then the cupboard in Mr. Bingham's room
+was opened, and burning cloaks, dresses, boxes of curios,
+portmanteaus, &c., were hauled out, and, by a chain of men, sent on
+deck, where they were drenched with sea-water or thrown overboard.
+Moving these things caused the flames to increase in vigour, and the
+_extincteur_ was used freely, and with the greatest success. It is an
+invaluable invention, especially for a yacht, where there are so many
+holes and corners which it would be impossible to reach by ordinary
+means. All this time the smoke was pouring in volumes from the
+cupboard on the other side, and from under the nursery fireplace. The
+floors were pulled up, and the partitions were pulled down, until at
+last the flames were got under. The holds were next examined. No
+damage had been done there; but the cabin floor was completely burnt
+through, and the lead from the nursery fireplace was running about,
+melted by the heat.
+
+The explanation of the cause of the fire is very simple. Being a
+bitterly cold night, a roaring fire had been made up in the nursery,
+but about half-past ten the servants thought it looked rather
+dangerous and raked it out. The ashpan was not large enough, however,
+to hold the hot embers, which soon made the tiles red-hot. The
+woodwork caught fire, and had been smouldering for hours, when the
+nurse fortunately woke and discovered the state of affairs. She tried
+to rouse the other maids, but they were stupefied with the smoke, and
+so she rushed off at once to the doctor and Mr. Bingham. The former
+seized a child under each arm, wrapped them in blankets, and carried
+them off to the deck-house, Mabelle and the maids following, with more
+blankets and rugs, hastily snatched up. The children were as good as
+possible. They never cried nor made the least fuss, but composed
+themselves in the deck-house to sleep for the remainder of the night,
+as if it were all a matter of course. When I went to see them, little
+Muriel remarked: 'If the yacht is on fire, mamma, had not baby and I
+better get our ulsters, and go with Emma in the boat to the hotel, to
+be out of the way?' It is the third time in their short lives that
+they have been picked out of bed in the middle of the night and
+carried off in blankets away from a fire, so I suppose they are
+getting quite used to it.
+
+There can be no doubt that the preservation of the yacht from very
+serious damage, if not from complete destruction, was due to the
+prompt and efficient manner in which the _extincteurs_ were used. It
+was not our first experience of the value of this invention; for, not
+very long before we undertook our present expedition, a fire broke out
+in our house in London, on which occasion the _extincteurs_ we
+fortunately had at hand rendered most excellent service in subduing
+the flames.
+
+By half-past three all danger was past, and we began to settle down
+again, though it took a long time to get rid of the smoke.
+
+At four o'clock we weighed anchor, and once more made a start from
+Kobe, and passed through the Straits of Akashi. The wind was dead
+ahead, but not so strong as when we made our previous attempts. It was
+bitterly cold, the thermometer, in a sheltered place, being only one
+degree above freezing, and the breeze from the snowy mountains cutting
+like a knife.
+
+We were all disappointed with our sail to-day; perhaps because we had
+heard so much of the extreme beauty of the scenery, and this is not
+the best time of year for seeing it. The hills are all brown, instead
+of being covered with luxuriant vegetation, and all looked bleak and
+barren, though the outlines of the mountain ranges were very fine. We
+were reminded of the west coast of Scotland, the Lofoden Islands in
+the Arctic Circle, and the tamer portions of the scenery of the
+Straits of Magellan.
+
+After passing through the Straits, we crossed the Harima Nada--rather
+a wider portion of the sea--and then entered the intricate channels
+among the islands once more. There are three thousand of them
+altogether, so one may take it for granted that the navigation is by
+no means easy. The currents and tides are strong, sunken rocks are
+frequent, and the greatest care is requisite. Indeed, many people at
+Yokohama urged Tom to take a pilot.
+
+[Illustration: Yoken San or Sacred Mountain, Inland Sea]
+
+We had one lovely view in the afternoon of the island of Yoken San,
+with its snowy mountain at the back, and a pretty little village, with
+a few picturesque junks in the foreground. The yacht passed between
+Oki Sama and Le Sama, steering straight for the cone-shaped little
+island of Odutsi. Towards dusk we made the light of Nabae Sinaon Yo
+Sina, and, steering past it, had to take several sharp and awkward
+turns, to avoid two reefs off Siyako and Usi Suria. Thus we threaded
+the St. Vincent's Channel, and, avoiding the Conqueror bank by another
+sharp turn, dropped anchor at Imo Ura, in Hurusima, precisely at 8.30
+p.m. Tom had been on the look-out since 5 a.m., and we were all more
+or less worn out with the fatigue and excitement of last night.
+
+_Friday, February 16th_.--Off again at 4 a.m. The scenery was much
+finer than yesterday, and the wind not quite so bitterly cold.
+
+About 11 a.m. I heard a hurrying to and fro, and once more the cry of
+'Fire!' This time it was in the store-room that it broke out. The iron
+plates on which the saloon and galley grates are fixed had become
+red-hot, and the wooden deck below had consequently caught fire. The
+boxes on both sides, containing the stores, were in flames; but they
+were quickly removed, water was poured down, and the second and third
+fires were thus soon extinguished.
+
+[Illustration: Hurusima, Inland Sea.]
+
+_Saturday, February 17th_.--At 3.15 a.m. we began to slow; at 3.45 the
+anchor was dropped near the lighthouse of Isaki, and we waited until
+daylight before proceeding through the Straits of Simono-seki. About
+nine o'clock a fresh start was made, under steam, but before long the
+wind freshened, and as soon as the anchorage near the town was reached
+we let go once more, near two men-of-war, who had preceded us from
+Kobe, but who were now wind-bound, like ourselves.
+
+To our astonishment, we also saw a large ship from Nova Scotia at
+anchor, the 'Mary Fraser,' although this is not a free port, nor
+within treaty limits. The gig was lowered at once, and we rowed
+alongside to gain what intelligence could be learned, as well as to
+ascertain what likelihood there might be of our obtaining fresh
+supplies here. The captain was very civil and kind, and volunteered to
+go on shore with us and act as our interpreter. We landed opposite a
+large teahouse, where we were immediately surrounded by a crowd of
+Japanese, who stared at us eagerly and even touched us, only through
+curiosity. They pursued us wherever we went, and when we entered a
+tea-house or shop the whole crowd immediately stopped, and if we
+retired to the back they surged all over the front premises, and
+penetrated into the interior as far as they could. A most amusing
+scene took place at one of the tea-houses, where we went to order some
+provisions for the yacht. It was rather a tedious process, and when we
+came out of the back room we found the whole of the front of the place
+filled by a gaping, curious crowd. The proprietor suggested that they
+should retire at once, and an abrupt retreat immediately took place,
+the difficulties of which were greatly augmented by the fact that
+every one had left his high wooden shoes outside, along the front of
+the house. The street was ankle deep in mud and half-melted snow, into
+which they did not like to venture in their stockings; but how the
+owners of two or three hundred pairs of clogs, almost exactly alike,
+ever found their own property again I do not understand, though they
+managed to clear out very quickly. I believe Muriel and I were the
+chief objects of attraction. They told us that no European lady or
+child had ever been at Simono-seki before. It is not a treaty port, so
+no one is allowed to land, except from a man-of-war, without special
+permission, which is not often given; it is, besides, the key to the
+Inland Sea, and the authorities are very jealous about any one seeing
+the forts. There is only one European resident here, connected with
+the telegraph; and a dull time he must have of it. The wire crosses
+the Straits a few miles higher up.
+
+The streets appeared to be full of soldiers, patrolling singly and in
+pairs, with fixed bayonets. The temples were being used as barracks,
+and the principal buildings seemed to be strongly guarded; but
+otherwise everything appeared to go on as usual.
+
+We waded through the mud and snow to the proverbial end of all things,
+always followed by the same crowd, and stared at by all the
+inhabitants of the houses we passed. They seemed very timid, and
+inclined to run away directly we turned round. Still, their curiosity,
+especially respecting my sealskin jacket and serge dress, was
+insatiable, and I constantly felt myself being gently stroked and
+touched.
+
+We returned to the yacht, and whilst we were at lunch some officers
+came on board to say that, this not being a treaty port, we could not
+purchase any provisions, except through them, and with special
+permission. This was soon arranged, and our visitors were rewarded for
+their trouble by being shown over the yacht.
+
+_Sunday, February 18th_.--We were awakened in the night by a heavy
+gale, with snow and sleet beating furiously on the deck. In the
+morning the land was covered with snow, the water froze as it was
+pumped on deck, and the bitter wind howled and whistled through the
+rigging. In the afternoon the wind even increased in violence, the
+snowstorms became more frequent, and the sky was dark and overcast.
+
+We had service at eleven and again at four. The sun set cold and
+stormy, promising a wild night. At times the shore was quite hidden by
+the snowstorms, though only a few cables' lengths off.
+
+_Monday, February 19th_.--The wind and weather became worse than ever,
+and, as time was precious, Tom decided to retrace our steps for a
+short distance and go through the Bungo Channel, between the islands
+of Sikok and Kiusiu, instead of going out to sea through the
+Simono-seki Straits, as, in the latter case, the gale would be right
+in our teeth, and we should make but little progress. Now we shall be
+under the shelter of Kiusiu and the Linschoten and Luchu islands for
+at least two days, and so make a fair wind of it. Steering due south,
+too, we may hope to be soon out of this horrid weather. The only
+drawback to this plan is that we shall miss seeing Nagasaki, which I
+much regret. There are no great sights there, but the scenery is
+pretty, and the place is interesting owing to the fact that it was the
+first and for many years the only, port open to foreigners, and also
+the scene of the cruel murders of Christians and the site of the
+beautiful island of Pappenberg. Shanghai I do not think I regret so
+much, though Tom would have been interested to talk with the merchants
+about their commerce, and to see their houses, many of which are, I am
+told, perfect palaces. It would be very cold there, too, at this time
+of year; and I do so long to lose my cough and feel warm once more.
+
+At 8.30 p.m. we weighed and proceeded under steam. The views of the
+mountains, between the snowstorms, were lovely, with the fresh-fallen
+snow shining in an occasional gleam of sunshine. We soon passed the
+Isaki light, with wind and tide in our favour, and at sunset found
+ourselves in the open waters of the North Pacific.
+
+_Tuesday, February 20th_.--A lovely day; the thermometer already
+twenty degrees higher than it was yesterday. The wind had dropped, and
+at 10 a.m. it had become so calm that fires were lighted.
+
+It was delightful to see everybody and everything on board--people,
+children, animals, and birds, all and each sunning themselves, and
+trying to get thawed after the freezing they have had. We have
+unfortunately lost one of the Hawaiian geese, which I much regret, as
+it is irreplaceable. None have, I believe, ever been exported before.
+The pig from Harpe Island is very well. We have not seen him all the
+cold weather, as he has been buried in straw in a box, but they say
+that the cold has stopped his growth.
+
+We were continually passing islands throughout the day, sometimes six
+or seven being in sight at one time, some with active and more with
+extinct volcanoes. We saw smoke issuing from three of the cones, but
+by night we were too far off to notice the flames.
+
+_Wednesday, February 21st_.--The calm still continues. The sun is
+bright, the sky blue, and the atmosphere warm. During the night we
+passed Suwa Sima, Akuisi Sima, and Yoko Sima.
+
+In the afternoon a light breeze sprang up; we stopped steaming, and
+before nightfall were bowling along smoothly at the rate of ten knots.
+
+_Thursday, February 22nd_.--The same delightful breeze continued
+throughout the night and most of the day. By noon we had done 220
+miles. Everybody had on summer clothes, and we all felt ourselves
+gradually expanding after being shrivelled up by the cold of the last
+month.
+
+I should never recommend anybody to come to Japan in the winter. You
+do not see it at its best, I am sure, and the scanty protection
+afforded by houses and carriages makes travelling a penance rather
+than a pleasure. Travellers, however, who wish to see Japan should do
+so at once; for the country is changing every day, and in three years
+more will be so Europeanised that little will be left worth seeing; or
+a violent anti-foreign revulsion of feeling may have taken place, and
+then the ports will be closed more strictly than they were even before
+the execution of the first treaty. Nothing that we can give them do
+they really want; their exports are not large; and they have learned
+nearly all they care to know from the foreigner. We have seen many of
+the European engineers of Japanese vessels, and they all agree in
+declaring that the natives learn to imitate anything they see done
+with wonderful quickness. These men also averred that in a few years
+there will not be a single foreigner employed in Japan, as the
+Japanese will be quite in a position to dispense with such aid; and
+although the Government pay foreigners in a high position exceedingly
+well, their service offers no career to a young man. His engagement is
+for so many years, and when his subordinates have learned to do the
+work he may go where he likes. I am bound to add that I have heard the
+contrary opinion equally strongly expressed; but the facts I have
+mentioned make me lean rather to the former than to the latter side of
+the story.
+
+_Friday, February 23rd_.--Another pleasant day. The wind dropped,
+fires were lighted, and at 4.30 p.m. we proceeded under steam. Soon
+after seven, whilst we were at dinner, the table gave a sudden lurch,
+which was followed by the sound of rain on the deck above. We found
+that a breeze had sprung up all at once, and had carried away some of
+our head-sails before they could possibly be taken in. Even under
+close-reefed canvas we had a most uneasy night, racing along at from
+ten to twelve knots an hour.
+
+_Saturday, February 24th_.--We were rushing along, literally _through_
+the water all day, for there was plenty of it on deck--not really any
+great quantity, but sufficient to make everything wet and
+uncomfortable.
+
+At 1.35 we made the island of Ockseu, a capital land-fall, and very
+satisfactory in every way; for the sky was too much overcast to get an
+observation, and the currents hereabouts are strong and variable.
+During the night the wind fell light, but we maintained a speed of
+from nine to ten knots.
+
+_Sunday, February 25th_.--A much finer day. At 8 a.m. we had run 299
+knots since the same time yesterday. We met a large steamer and passed
+a brigantine; also several Chinese junks. About twelve o'clock we saw
+a flag being waved frantically from a junk not far from us. At first
+we thought something was wrong with them; but soon a small boat put
+off with three men, and we found, on its arrival alongside, that it
+contained a pilot anxious for a job. He was very disappointed that we
+would not let him come on board; but Tom always likes doing the
+pilotage himself. The boat was a rough wash-tub kind of affair, not
+much better than those used by the inhabitants of Tierra del Fuego and
+Patagonia.
+
+About two o'clock we entered the tropics; but the weather is now
+colder again, and not nearly so pleasant as it was two days ago. I
+suppose it is owing to the north-east monsoon.
+
+In the course of the afternoon we received several more offers of
+pilotage, all of which were declined; and at 7.45 we got up steam and
+lay to all night, ready to go into Hongkong harbour at daylight.
+
+_Monday, February 26th_.--At 4 a.m. we found ourselves close under the
+light on the eastern end of the island of Hongkong. We were surrounded
+by islands, and the morning was dark and thick; so we waited till
+5.30, and then steamed on through the Kowloon passage up to the city
+of Victoria, as it is really named, though it is generally called
+Hongkong. The channel is long, and in some places so narrow that it is
+like going through a mountain pass, with barren hills and rocks on
+either hand; but the combined effect of the blue waters, and red,
+brown, and yellow hills, is very fine.
+
+Off the town of Victoria the crowd of shipping is immense, and it
+became a difficult task to thread our way between the fleets of
+sampans and junks. The latter are the most extraordinary-looking craft
+I ever saw, with high, overhanging sterns and roll, or rather draw, up
+sails, sometimes actually made of silk, and puffed like a lady's net
+ball-dress. Then their decks are so crowded with lumber, live and
+dead, that you wonder how the boats can be navigated at all. But still
+they are much more picturesque than the Japanese junks, and better sea
+boats. The sampans are long boats, pointed at both ends, and provided
+with a small awning. They have deep keels; and underneath the floor
+there is one place for a cooking fire, another for an altar, and a
+third where the children are stowed to be out of the way. In these
+sampans whole families, sometimes five generations, live and move and
+have their being. I never shall forget my astonishment when, going
+ashore very early one morning in one of these strange craft, the
+proprietor lifted up what I had thought was the bottom of the boat,
+and disclosed three or four children, packed away as tight as
+herrings, while under the seats were half-a-dozen people of larger
+growth. The young mother of the small family generally rows with the
+smallest baby strapped on to her back, and the next-sized one in her
+arms, whom she is also teaching to row. The children begin to row by
+themselves when they are about two years old. The boys have a gourd,
+intended for a life-preserver, tied round their necks as soon as they
+are born. The girls are left to their fate, a Chinaman thinking it
+rather an advantage to lose a daughter or two occasionally.
+
+Many of these sampan people have never set foot on shore in their
+lives, and this water-life of China is one of the most extraordinary
+features of the country. It is what strikes all travellers, and so has
+tempted me to a digression.
+
+A lieutenant from the flag-ship came on board and piloted us into a
+snug berth, among the men-of-war, and close to the shore, where we
+were immediately surrounded by sampans, and pestered by pertinacious
+Chinese clambering on board. The donkey-engine, with well-rigged hose,
+soon, however, cleared the decks, bulwarks, and gangways, and we were
+not bothered any more.
+
+[Illustration: How we were boarded by Chinese and dispersed them.]
+
+After breakfast we landed on the Praya, a fine quay, extending the
+whole length of the town. On it are situated many of the large stores,
+offices, and markets of the city. The streets are wide and handsome,
+and the buildings in European style, with deep verandahs and arcades,
+all built of stone. The town is built on the side of a hill, with
+ferny, moss-covered banks, overhung by tropical trees, close to some
+of the principal offices. At the back are the mountains, the peak
+overhead, with the signal station on the top, always busily at work,
+making and answering signals with flags as ships and junks enter or
+leave the harbour. Soldiers and sailors abound in the streets; and if
+it were not for the sedan-chairs and palanquins, in which everybody is
+carried about by Chinese coolies with enormous hats, one might easily
+fancy oneself at dear old Gib., so much do these dependencies of the
+Crown in foreign countries resemble one another, even in such
+opposite quarters of the globe.
+
+We were very anxious to leave the yacht here and to go up to Canton;
+but we find there is no possible hotel at the latter place. This is
+rather unfortunate, as, after our long residence on board, and all the
+knocking about at sea, the yacht requires repairing and refitting. She
+looks very well painted white, and the change is a great comfort in
+hot weather; but white paint does not wear well, and in order to
+maintain her good looks she ought to receive a fresh coat at every
+port. We can only go up the Pearl River at the very top of the tide,
+for in several places there are not fourteen feet of water over the
+shoals. It will, therefore, take us two or three days to accomplish
+what the steamers do in six hours, and a great waste of time will be
+involved.
+
+To-day, for the first time, we have heard 'pidgin English' seriously
+spoken. It is very trying to one's composure to hear grave merchants,
+in their counting-houses, giving important orders to clerks and
+compradors in what sounds, until one gets accustomed to it, like the
+silliest of baby-talk. The term really means 'business English;' and
+certain it is that most Chinamen you meet understand it perfectly,
+though you might just as well talk Greek as ordinary English to them.
+'Take piecey missisy one piecey bag topside,' seems quite as difficult
+to understand as 'Take the lady's bag upstairs' would be; but it is
+easier to a Chinaman's intellect.
+
+From the Praya we went up the hill to write our names in the
+Governor's book. It was a beautiful road all the way, running between
+lovely gardens and beneath shady trees. Government House is a fine
+building, situated on a high point of land, commanding extensive views
+in every direction. After a pleasant chat we descended the hill again,
+and proceeded to the Hongkong hotel for tiffin. It does not seem a
+very desirable abode, being large, dirty, and ill-kept. At one
+o'clock a bell rang, and the visitors all rushed in and took their
+places at various little tables, and were served with a 'scrambly'
+sort of meal by Chinese boys.
+
+After this, a carriage was sent for us, and we drove to the
+race-course. This is the fourth and last day of the races, and there
+is to be a ball to-night to wind up with, to which everybody seems to
+be going. The drive was a very pleasant one, the road presenting a
+most animated appearance, with crowds of soldiers, sailors, Chinamen,
+Parsees, Jews, all hurrying along by the side of the numerous
+sedan-chairs and carriages. We were puzzled to imagine where, on this
+rocky, hilly island, there could possibly be found a piece of ground
+flat enough for a race-course. But the mystery was solved when we
+reached a lovely little valley, about two miles from the town, where
+we found a very fair course, about the size of that at Chester, but
+not so dangerous. The grand stand is a picturesque object, with its
+thatched roof, verandahs, and sun-blinds. The interior, too, looks
+comfortably arranged, and certainly contains the most luxurious
+basket-chairs one could possibly desire. There are a lawn and a
+paddock attached, and very good temporary stables, over many of which
+are private stands and tiffin-rooms.
+
+Hongkong races are a great event, and people come down from Canton,
+Shanghai, Macao, and all sorts of places for them. Everybody knows
+everybody, and it seems to be altogether a most pleasant social
+meeting. Many ladies were present. Some of the races were capital, the
+little Chinese ponies scuttling along at a great pace under their big
+riders, whose feet seemed almost to touch the ground. There was also a
+race for Australian horses. But the most amusing event of all was the
+last scramble for Chinese ponies ridden by Chinese boys, in which
+horses and riders seemed to be exactly suited to one another.
+
+The sun went down, and it grew cold and dark before all was over. The
+gentlemen walked back to the town, and I went down to the
+landing-place in solitary state, in a carriage driven by an Indian
+coachman, attended by a Chinese footman. I was immediately surrounded
+by a vociferating crowd, each individual member of which was anxious
+to extol the merits of his own sampan. The carriage having driven off,
+I was quite alone, and had some difficulty in dispersing them, and
+being allowed to enter the sampan I had selected. However, I did
+succeed at last, and making my boatmen understand that they were to
+take me to 'the white ship,' as the yacht is generally called,
+returned on board to rest.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+TO CANTON UP THE PEARL RIVER.
+
+    _Sails of silk and ropes of sandal_
+    _Such as gleam in ancient lore,_
+    _And the singing of the sailors,_
+    _And the answer from the shore._
+
+_Tuesday, February 27th_.--Until half-past ten we were occupied in the
+pleasant task of reading news from home--all good this time, I am
+happy to say. At 10.30 we landed and went up the hill to breakfast
+with Sir Arthur and Miss Kennedy, and heard a good deal about the
+colony. It is wonderful to think that thirty years ago it scarcely
+existed, and now it is a large and flourishing place, with splendid
+houses, institutions, roads, and gardens. We were also most agreeably
+surprised by the beauty of the scenery. It is really lovely, and,
+though the hills around are barren, wherever cultivation has been
+attempted, vegetation appears to flourish luxuriantly. The climate
+cannot be very bad, judging by the healthy look of the residents and
+troops. Typhoons seem to be the greatest drawback. They come without
+any warning, and it is impossible to guard against them and their
+disastrous effects. Thousands of lives, and millions of pounds' worth
+of property, are destroyed in a few hours. We have been shown some of
+the effects of a very severe typhoon that occurred in 1874. It seems
+almost incredible that the mere force of the wind can snap iron posts
+in two, break granite columns, and blow off heavy roofs.
+
+After breakfast the ceremony of presenting the departing Governor with
+a State umbrella took place. It was a token of respect from ten
+thousand Chinese inhabitants of Hongkong, and is the greatest
+compliment that can be paid to any official. It arrived in a large
+camphor-wood box, and the address, beautifully embroidered in gold
+thread and silk, was enclosed in a magnificent sandal-wood box about
+four feet long, covered with the richest carving. Precisely at twelve
+some forty vermilion-coloured visiting cards were handed in, with the
+name of each member of the deputation written in Chinese and English
+characters. The visitors were all received in a large drawing-room,
+whilst we ladies observed the proceedings through the doors leading
+from a smaller room. It is not considered etiquette by the Chinese for
+ladies to appear at these public ceremonies.
+
+[Illustration: Chinese Visiting Cards]
+
+After it was all over, a stroll through the town, and a look at the
+shops, filled up the rest of the time in the morning, until we went on
+board to fetch the children for an expedition up the Peak to the
+signal station. As usual many visitors came on board the yacht, and it
+was later than we had intended before we could make a start. I had to
+be carried up the steep ascent in a chair, but the children and dogs
+thoroughly enjoyed themselves scampering about. The little ones picked
+heaps of flowers and ferns. The dogs had not been allowed to land
+before, as everybody told me they would be sure to be stolen directly.
+We returned on board before sunset, and had time for a little rest
+before some friends arrived to dinner. We have shipped two Chinese
+boys here to work in the pantry and kitchen. They are excellent
+servants as a rule, but how they will get on with the others, and how
+they will like the sea-life, remains to be proved.
+
+_Wednesday, February 28th_.--I was up and off at half-past six to the
+market, and returned to a late breakfast on board; after which a large
+party of China merchants came as a deputation to invite Tom to fix a
+day to dine with them. I think they proposed to pay him what is for
+them an unusual compliment, partly because they were pleased with some
+remarks he made yesterday at Government House, and partly because they
+think so much of his enterprise in making a voyage round the world in
+a yacht with his wife and family. They examined everything on board,
+and seemed to be specially interested in Tom's Board of Trade
+certificate, which one of their number translated in full for the
+benefit of the rest.
+
+The Chinese part of the town stands quite away from the foreign
+settlement. It is dirty and crowded in spite of its wide streets, and
+the large, gaily coloured houses have the names and advertisements of
+their proprietors painted all across them. The theatre is in the
+middle of the city, and was densely crowded. A box had been reserved
+for us, for the ordinary seats are like a carpenter's bench. On the
+floor of the house men and women sat together, but in the galleries
+the men sat apart, and there were separate boxes for the women. The
+acting was rough, and accompanied by the most discordant music. The
+scenery seemed of an excessively rudimentary description, as you may
+imagine when I tell you that a steep hill up which the hero and
+heroine climbed with great difficulty was composed of five kitchen
+chairs arranged in a pyramid on the top of three kitchen tables, held
+in position by men in their ordinary dress. The fugitives were
+supposed to be a Tartar general and his wife, escaping from their
+enemies after a great battle. The fighting was renewed at intervals
+with great noise and spirit. Some of the costumes were very fine, and
+cost from 30_l_. to 40_l_. apiece.
+
+[Illustration: On the Pearl River.]
+
+From the theatre we drove to the Chinese hospital, and thence to the
+Chinese recreation ground, where we saw sundry itinerant quacks and
+vendors of all sorts of rubbish. As we were walking along, having left
+our chairs for a few minutes to look at the Chinese shops, a man
+picked my pocket of a one-dollar note. Mr. Freer and the Doctor saw,
+pursued, and caught him. He vehemently protested his innocence, but to
+no avail. They proceeded to strip him, found the note, gave him a good
+shaking, and told him to go.
+
+_Thursday, March 1st_.--A most lovely morning ushered in the new
+month, which having come in like the most peaceable of lambs, will, we
+hope, not end like a roaring lion just as we expect to be in the
+middle of the Bay of Bengal. We left the yacht at 7.30, and went on
+board the 'Kin-Shan,' which is a regular American river steamer with
+beam engines and many deck-houses, which are painted white. The lower
+deck is crowded with the most inferior class of Chinese, some eight
+hundred of them being on board. It gave us rather a turn to see them
+all padlocked in under the hatchways and iron gratings. At each
+opening is posted an armed sentinel, ready to fire among the crowd in
+case of any disturbance. In the saloon, also, is a stand of pistols,
+and rifles with fixed bayonets, ready for the European passengers to
+defend themselves with, in case of emergency. These are very necessary
+precautions, on account of the numerous pirates who occasionally ship
+in disguise among the crowd, murder the passengers and crew, and take
+possession of the steamer. Not quite two years ago a vessel belonging
+to this same company was assailed in that way. Every one on board was
+murdered, and the ship taken to Macao.[19] But this voyage was more
+prosperous, the captain was most kind and polite, and the boat clean
+and comfortable. An excellent breakfast and an elaborate tiffin were
+served at noon, all for the sum of four dollars a head, including
+wine, beer, and spirits _ad libitum_.
+
+[Footnote 19: I have since been told that only the captain and one or
+two passengers were killed, and the vessel run ashore near, not at
+Macao.]
+
+On first leaving Hankow the course lies between islands and through
+fine mountain passes. Later on the country becomes flat and
+uninteresting till the Bogue Forts are reached. Here are to be seen
+the remains of the old forts knocked down by the French and English
+guns.
+
+[Illustration: Bogue Forts.]
+
+About one o'clock we reached Whampoa, the leading port of Canton. The
+Pearl River is too shallow for large steamers to go up any higher; so
+we stopped here only a few minutes to disembark some of the Chinese
+passengers, and from this point the interesting part of the voyage
+began. The river, as well as all the little supplementary creeks, was
+alive with junks and sampans--masts and sails stuck up in every
+direction, gliding about among the flat paddy-fields. Such masts and
+sails as they are! The mandarins' boats, especially, are so
+beautifully carved, painted, and decorated, that they look more as if
+they were floating about for ornament than for use. Just about two
+o'clock our large steamer was brought up close alongside the wooden
+pier as easily as a skiff, but it must require some skill to navigate
+this crowded river without accident. On the shore was an excited,
+vociferating crowd, but no one came to meet us; and we had begun to
+wonder what was to become of us--what we should do, and whither we
+should go in a strange city, where we did not know a soul--when we
+were relieved from our embarrassment by the appearance of the
+Vice-Consul, who came on board to meet a friend. He told us that,
+owing to an expected ball, all the houses were unusually full, and
+that not one of the people who had been written to could take us in.
+This was rather bad news, but we felt sure that something would turn
+up.
+
+[Illustration: Chinese Pagoda and Boats.]
+
+We landed, and, after proceeding a short distance along the dirty
+street, came to a bridge with iron gates, which were thrown open by
+the sentry. After crossing a dirty stream we found ourselves in the
+foreign settlement--Shameen it is called--walking on nice turf, under
+the shade of fine trees. The houses of the merchants which line this
+promenade are all fine, handsome stone buildings, with deep verandahs.
+At the back there are compounds with kitchen gardens, and under the
+trees dairy cows are grazing. Every household appears to supply itself
+with garden and farm produce, and the whole scene has a most English,
+home-like appearance. We went first to the Vice-Consul, and then to
+the Jardine Hong. All the business houses retain the names of the
+firms to which they originally belonged, even when they have passed
+into entirely different hands. After a little chat we went on to the
+Deacon Hong, where we found they had just done tiffin, and where we
+met some old friends.
+
+By the kindness of various people, to whom we were introduced, we all
+found ourselves gradually installed in luxurious quarters. As for us,
+we had a large room comfortably furnished in English fashion, with a
+bath-room attached. All the houses are very much alike, and are fitted
+up in an equally comfortable style.
+
+About three o'clock we started in five chairs, with Man-look-Chin for
+our guide. Tom vigorously protested against not being allowed to use
+his own legs, but everybody assured him that it was impossible in the
+crowded streets of the city, so he had to submit to being carried. No
+Chinaman, except those employed by foreigners, is allowed to cross any
+of the bridges over the stream, which completely surrounds the foreign
+settlement, and makes the suburb of Shameen a perfect island. There
+are iron gates on each bridge, guarded by sentries. The contrast in
+the state of things presented by the two sides of the bridge is most
+marvellous. From the quiet country park, full of large villas and
+pretty gardens, you emerge into a filthy city, full of a seething,
+dirty population, and where smells and sights of the most disgusting
+description meet you at every turn. People who have seen many Chinese
+cities say that Canton is the cleanest of them all. What the dirtiest
+must be like is therefore beyond my imagination. The suburbs of the
+city, where all sorts of cheap eating-shops abound--where the butchers
+and fishmongers expose the most untempting-looking morsels for sale,
+and where there are hampers of all sorts of nasty-looking compounds,
+done up ready for the buyer of the smallest portion to take home--are
+especially revolting. The Chinese, however poor, like several courses
+to their meals, which are served in little bowls on a small table to
+each person, and eaten with chop-sticks, as in Japan. It is to gratify
+this taste that what we should think a very minute fish, or a tiny
+chicken, is cut up into half-a-dozen pieces and sold to several
+purchasers.
+
+The Chinese are very fond of fish, and are most ingenious in
+propagating, rearing, and keeping them. The dried-fish and seaweed
+shops are not at all picturesque or sweet-smelling, especially as all
+the refuse is thrown into the streets in front. Men go about the
+streets carrying pails of manure, suspended on bamboo poles across
+their shoulders, and clear away the rubbish as they go. I was very
+glad when we got through all this to the better part of the town, and
+found ourselves in a large shop, where it was cool, and dark, and
+quiet.
+
+The streets of the city are so narrow, that two chairs can scarcely
+pass one another, except at certain points. The roofs of the houses
+nearly meet across the roadway, and, in addition, the inhabitants
+frequently spread mats overhead, rendering the light below dim and
+mysterious. Every shop has a large vermilion-coloured board, with the
+name of its occupant written in Chinese characters, together with a
+list of the articles which he sells, hung out in front of it, so that
+the view down the narrow streets is very bright and peculiar. These
+highways and byways are not unlike the bazaars at Constantinople and
+Cairo, and different wares are also sold in different localities after
+the Eastern fashion. This is, in some respects, a great advantage, as,
+if you are in search of any particular article, you have almost an
+unlimited choice of whatever the town has to offer. But, on the other
+hand, if you want a variety of articles, it is an inconvenient
+arrangement, as you have to go all over the place to find them, and
+probably have to visit the most opposite quarters. We saw thousands of
+china vases, and bowls, and tea and dinner services, some very
+handsome, but many extremely poor. There were a few specially made for
+the French Exhibition next year, which were exceedingly handsome. We
+visited an ivory shop, and saw some splendid specimens of carving. One
+man had been for fifteen months employed in carving on one side of an
+enormous elephant's tusk the representation of a battle scene, and on
+the other that of a thanksgiving procession. It will take him at least
+another year to finish the job. It is for the Paris Exhibition. It
+will be quite interesting to look for our old Japanese and Chinese
+friends and their products on that occasion.
+
+From ivory carving, we went to a black-wood furniture shop, where we
+saw some very handsome things, by no means dear considering the amount
+of time and labour bestowed upon them. We finished up with the Temple
+of the Five Hundred Genii, whose five hundred carved wooden statues,
+thickly gilt, all very ugly, and all in different attitudes, stand
+round the statue of a European in sailor's costume, said to be meant
+for Marco Polo, but, whoever it may be, evidently considered an object
+at least of veneration, if not of worship.
+
+We now returned through the dirty city to Shameen, and the relief,
+after crossing the bridge into an open space where one could breathe
+freely and see the blue sky, was indescribable.
+
+_Friday, March 2nd_.--Before we had finished breakfast the other
+gentlemen strolled in from their various quarters, and the drivers and
+guides arrived from the Vice-Consul's. A long morning's work had been
+mapped out for us--thirteen sights before luncheon, then a visit to
+the French Consulate, followed by eight more objects of interest to be
+seen before we finally crossed the Pearl River to visit the Honan
+Temple. Quitting the pretty cool suburb by another bridge, we passed
+through streets quite as dirty as those of yesterday, until the heart
+of the city had been reached. We went first to the wedding-chair shop,
+where they keep sedan-chairs, of four qualities, for hire whenever a
+wedding occurs. Even the commonest are made gorgeous by silver gilding
+and lacquer, while the best are really marvels of decorative art,
+completely covered with the blue lustrous feathers of a kind of
+kingfisher. In shape they are like a square pagoda, and round each
+tier are groups of figures. The dresses are also made of expensive
+feathers, but then they last for generations. There are no windows to
+these strange conveyances, in which the bride is carried to her future
+home, closely shut up, with joss-sticks burning in front of her.
+Recently there have been two sad accidents. In one case the journey
+was long, there was no outlet for the smoke of the joss-sticks, and
+when they arrived and opened the chair, the bride was found dead from
+suffocation. The other accident occurred through the chair catching
+fire while it was passing through some narrow street under an archway.
+The bearers became frightened, put down their burden, and ran away,
+leaving the poor bride locked up inside to be burnt to death.
+
+From the chair shop we went to the embroiderers, to see them at work.
+Their productions are exquisite, and it is a pity that better
+specimens are not seen in England. The process of lacquer-making, too,
+is very interesting. We had, however, to go from house to house to
+witness it, as only one portion of the process is carried on at
+each--from the gradual coating of the roughest wood with three
+coatings of varnish, until it is finally ornamented with delicate
+designs, and polished ready for sale. In appearance, price, and length
+of wear there is a vast difference.
+
+The next thing to see was the weaving of silk, which is done in the
+most primitive manner. One man throws the shuttle, while another forms
+the pattern by jumping on the top of the loom and raising a certain
+number of threads, in order to allow the shuttle to pass beneath them.
+
+Then came a visit to the Temple of Longevity, a large Buddhist temple,
+with a monastic establishment of about ninety priests attached to it.
+It contains three shrines with large figures, but nothing specially
+interesting. There is a large pond in the midst of the garden, covered
+with duckweed, and full of beautiful gold and silver fish of many
+kinds. The Chinese certainly excel in producing gold and silver and
+red fish; they are the pets of every household, and are of all
+colours, some being striped and spotted, and boasting any number of
+tails from one to five.
+
+Outside the temple stands the Jadestone Market, where incredible
+quantities of this valuable stone change hands before ten o'clock
+every morning, both in its rough and its polished state. The stalls
+are the simplest wooden stands, and the appearance of the vendors is
+poor in the extreme. The contents of the stalls, however, are worth
+from 500_l_. to l,000_l_. (not dollars), and there are hundreds of
+these stalls, besides an entire jadestone street which we afterwards
+visited. We saw several of the shops, and asked the prices, as we
+wished to take home a small specimen; but they had no good carved
+cups, which were what we wanted, and for what they had they asked an
+enormous price. Jadestone is a material very difficult to work, and in
+many cases the result attained is not worth the labour expended upon
+it. It is more a _tour de force_ than a work of art. For a good stone,
+green as grass (as it ought to be), they ask from 2,500 to 3,000
+dollars; for a necklace of beads, 5,000 dollars; a set of mandarin's
+buttons, one large and one small, 50 to 150 dollars.
+
+After looking in at the goldbeaters at work, we next made our way to
+the temple of the Five Genii who are supposed to have founded the city
+of Canton. Being a Tartar temple, all the gods have a totally
+different cast of features, and are represented as Tartars with long
+beards. It is much frequented by women of all classes, and up and down
+the numerous flights of steps leading from one shrine to another, poor
+little women tottered and tumbled on their crippled feet, holding on
+to one another, or leaning on a stick. This temple is interesting as
+having been the head-quarters of the allied forces during their
+occupation of Canton from 1858 to 1861. The great bell in front of its
+principal shrine has been broken by a shot.
+
+We then went to see the Flowery Pagoda, built A.D. 512, but now
+deprived of many of its decorations. The Brilliant Pagoda too, so
+called from having once been covered with snow-white porcelain, is now
+only a tall brick-pointed tower nine stories high.
+
+By this time we all felt hungry, and began to wend our way towards the
+_yamun_. On the outskirts may be seen prisoners in chains, or wearing
+the _cangue_, imprisoned in a cage, or else suffering one of the
+numerous tortures inflicted in this country. I did not go to see any
+of these horrors, neither did I visit the execution ground; but some
+of the party did, and described it as a most horrible sight. Skulls
+were lying about in all directions, one of which had been quite
+recently severed from its trunk, the ground being still moist and red.
+
+Whilst luncheon was being prepared we were taken over many of the
+rooms and through several of the enclosures within the fortified gate.
+The meal was excellently served by Chinese servants in a charmingly
+picturesque Tartar room, and after it we wandered about the park,
+looked at the deer, and admired the Nagasaki bantams. Then it was time
+to start on a fresh sight-seeing expedition, armed with fresh
+directions. We set out first to the Temple of the Sleeping Buddha,
+where there is a large, fat, reclining figure; then to the Temple of
+Horrors--most rightly named, for in a suite of rooms built round three
+sides of a large yard are represented all the tortures of the Buddhist
+faith, such as boiling in oil, sawing in pieces, and other horrible
+devices. The yard itself is crowded with fortune-tellers,
+charm-sellers, deputy prayer-sayers, beggars, and all sorts of natural
+horrors, exhibiting various deformities. Altogether it is a most
+unpleasant place, but still it is one of the characteristic sights of
+Canton.
+
+We saw the hotel to-day for the first time. It certainly looks very
+hopeless. We were anxious to get in there if possible, as we were such
+a large party, but everybody assured us it was quite out of the
+question. One gentleman told me he never could fancy using his
+portmanteau again after even laying it down on the floor for a few
+minutes. The absence of a decent hotel renders Canton an inconvenient
+place to visit. The European inhabitants are so very kind, however,
+that you are sure to find somebody who knows somebody else who will
+hospitably take you in.
+
+[Illustration: The French Consulate, Canton.]
+
+From the Temple of the Sleeping Buddha we went up the height to
+breathe a little fresh air, and to see the five-storied pagoda at the
+spot where the allied forces had encamped, the Chinese groves in the
+White Cloud Mountains beyond, and to gain a general view of the
+densely crowded city beneath. It is all too flat, however, to be
+picturesque. The three _yamuns_ at our feet, with their quaint towers,
+grand old trees, flags, and the broad Pearl River on the other side of
+the city, are the only elements of positive beauty in the landscape.
+
+We soon descended the heights again, and, passing the Cantonese
+Viceroy's _yamuns_ paid our promised visit to the French Consul. His
+residence is, if possible, more quaint and beautiful than that of the
+English representative. The trees are finer, especially one grand
+avenue leading from the outer gates to the private apartments. We were
+most kindly received, and shown a wonderful collection of embroideries
+and china. It was a delightful visit, but we could not remain so long
+as we wished, for we had to see the water clock. The tower in which it
+stands is approached by a flight of steps, and was built between the
+years A.D. 624 and 907; but it has been repaired, destroyed, and
+repaired again, several times, having suffered in the bombardment of
+the town by the allied fleets in 1857.
+
+In the next street, Treasury Street (said to be the finest in Canton),
+you can buy burning-sticks measured to mark the time. They are
+extremely cheap, but perfectly accurate, and there seems little doubt
+that they have been used by the Chinese for thousands of years before
+the Christian era. Here, too, were the large spectacles so much worn;
+opium pipes, with all the paraphernalia for cleaning and smoking them;
+water pipes in pretty little shagreen cases, and many other curious
+articles in common use, of which we purchased specimens.
+
+In the Feather Street are innumerable shops containing nothing but
+feathers of all kinds for mandarins, actors, and ordinary mortals; but
+the great ambition of every Chinaman is to have a feather from the
+Emperor. They are all called peacocks' feathers, one-eyed, two-eyed,
+or three-eyed; but, in reality, many are pheasants' feathers. Some of
+these are from six to eight feet in length, beautifully marked. I
+bought two pairs over seven feet long. They are rather rare, as each
+bird has only two long feathers, and these are in perfection for but
+one month in the year. In this part of the town stands a Chinese
+restaurant where only cats' and dogs' flesh is served.
+
+We passed through innumerable streets, and at last reached the site of
+the old factories, now only occupied by a large and comfortable
+house. We were to have embarked in the Consul's boat to visit the
+Temple of Honan across the river, but it was getting late, and every
+one felt tired; so we went back through more crowded streets to rest
+awhile, before dressing to go out to dinner at eight o'clock. The
+dinner was quite English in its style, and the table looked bright
+with tea roses, heliotrope, and mignonette. The tables had been
+charmingly decorated by the Chinese servants, and even the _menu_ had
+been arranged by them. They seem to save their employer all trouble,
+even that of thinking, provided the services of really good ones can
+be secured. We have had one for only a few days, and he does
+everything for Tom and me. He appears to know exactly what we want to
+do or to wear, and to foresee all our requirements.
+
+But to return to this famous repast. It began with mandarin
+bird's-nest soup, with plover's eggs floating about in it. This is a
+most delicious and dainty dish, and is invariably given to strangers
+on their first arrival. I had no idea how expensive the nests were--54
+dollars a 'pice,' weighing something under a pound, and it takes two
+or three ounces to make enough soup for ten people. We had a very
+pleasant evening, talking over our experiences, and exchanging news as
+to our mutual friends.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+CANTON AND MACAO TO SINGAPORE.
+
+    _I remember the black wharves and the slips,_
+      _And the sea-tides tossing free;_
+    _And Spanish sailors with bearded lips,_
+    _And the beauty and mystery of the ship_
+      _And the magic of the sea._
+
+_Saturday, March 3rd_.--After our long day yesterday, I did not feel
+capable of acceding to our guide's proposition of being ready at
+half-past six for further explorations before breakfast; besides, I
+wanted to see Tom off by the nine o'clock boat to Hongkong, whither he
+is obliged to return in order to keep various engagements. The rest of
+our party have been persuaded to stay and see a little more of Canton
+and to go with some friends to a picnic in the White Cloud Mountains.
+A man brought home to-day some carved tortoiseshell brushes Tom has
+given me, with my name carved on them in Chinese. It was no good
+writing it down for the engraver's guidance, and after hearing it
+several times he wrote down two characters; but, as the 'r' is always
+a great difficulty with the Chinese, I much doubt whether the name is
+really spelt rightly.
+
+It was a most lovely day, and after some little delay we started about
+eleven o'clock, a party of seventeen in chairs. There were five ladies
+and twelve gentlemen--a most unusual proportion for Canton. A few
+weeks ago they wanted to get up a fancy ball, but there were only five
+available ladies to be found in the city. At present one or two more
+are staying here on a visit, and it is hoped that another ball may be
+arranged during this week, which may boast of at least ten ladies. We
+made quite a procession, with all the servants, bearers, &c., and
+excited much commotion in the narrow streets, where everybody had to
+make room and squeeze up to the side as best they could. Men ran
+before to clear the way for us, shouting, yet we were more than an
+hour going right across the city. On our way we passed through the egg
+market, saw the pork fat market, and the poulterers' and fowlers'
+shops.
+
+We managed to visit several shops for the sale of real Chinese
+furniture. It is very handsome, but curious in form, and, unless it is
+specially ordered, is made only for native use. Every Chinese
+reception-room is furnished in precisely the same manner, with very
+stiff high arm-chairs, arranged in two rows. A small four-legged
+square table stands between every two chairs, a larger table in the
+centre, and at the end an enormous sofa, big enough for six or eight
+people to lie full length across. The sofa and all the chairs have
+marble seats and backs, and the tops of the tables are also made of
+marble, or a sort of soapstone, on which may be distinguished natural
+landscapes slightly assisted by art.
+
+In the bird market I saw numbers of little birds for sale, for the
+Chinese are very fond of pets, and often take their birds out in a
+cage with them when they go for a walk, just as we should be
+accompanied by a dog. They manage to tame them thoroughly, and when
+they meet a friend they will put the cage down, let the bird out, and
+give him something to eat while they have their chat. I saw this done
+several times.
+
+Our road next led us through part of the butchers' quarter, where rats
+were hung up by their tails, and what looked very like skinned cats
+and dogs dangled beside them. Whole cages full of these animals were
+exposed for sale alive. Some travellers deny that the Chinese eat cats
+and dogs and rats, but there can be no question that they do so,
+though they may be the food only of the lower classes. Nor do 'puppy
+dogs' appear on the tables of the rich, except on one particular day
+in the year, when to eat them is supposed to bring good luck. We
+passed a restaurant where I was shown the bill of fare in Chinese of
+which this is a translation:--
+
+BILL OF FARE FOR THE DAY.
+
+One tael of black dog's flesh          eight cash.
+One tael weight of black dog's fat     three kandareems of silver.
+One large basin of black cat's flesh   one hundred cash.
+One small basin of black cat's flesh   fifty cash.
+One large bottle of common wine        thirty-two cash.
+One small bottle of common wine        sixteen cash.
+One large bottle of dark rice wine     sixty-eight cash.
+One small basin of cat's flesh         thirty-four cash.
+One large bottle of plum wine          sixty-eight cash.
+One small bottle of plum wine          thirty-four cash.
+One large basin of dog's flesh         sixty-eight cash.
+One small bottle of pear wine          thirty-four cash.
+One large bottle of timtsin wine       ninety-six cash.
+One small bottle of timtsin wine       forty-eight cash.
+One basin of congee                    three cash.
+One small plate of pickles             three cash.
+One small saucer of ketchup or vinegar three cash.
+One pair of black cat's eyes           three kandareems of silver.
+
+The fish here, as at Hongkong, are almost always kept alive in large
+tubs of water, with a fountain playing over them. They even keep some
+sea-fish alive in salt water. But it is in the north of China that
+they excel in rearing fish in large quantities. At Foo-chow cormorant
+fishing may be seen to great perfection, and it is said to be a very
+amusing sight.
+
+At last the city gates were reached, and we once more found ourselves
+outside the walls, and able to breathe again. Here a halt was made,
+and several of the party got out of their chairs and walked, and we
+were able to chat, whilst we wended our way by a narrow path through
+nursery gardens and graveyards. In fact the whole of the White Cloud
+Mountain is one vast cemetery--it is the Chinese Holy of Holies,
+whither their bodies are sent, not only from all parts of China, but
+from all parts of the world. Frequently a shipload of 1,500 or 1,600
+bodies arrives in one day. The Steamboat Company charges 40 dollars
+for the passage of a really live Chinaman, as against 160 dollars for
+the carriage of a dead celestial. The friends of the deceased often
+keep the bodies in coffins above ground for several years, until the
+priests announce that they have discovered a lucky day and a lucky
+spot for the interment. This does not generally happen until he--the
+priest--finds he can extract no more money by divination, and that no
+more funeral feasts will be given by the friends. We passed through
+what they call the city of the dead, where thousands of coffins
+waiting for interment were lying above ground. The coffins are large
+and massive, but very plain, resembling the hollowed-out trunk of a
+tree. The greatest compliment a Chinese can pay his older relatives is
+to make them a present of four handsome longevity boards for their
+coffins. Outside the city of the dead were the usual adjuncts of a
+large burying-place--coffin-makers and stone-carvers, all living in
+dirty little cottages, surrounded by pigs, ducks, and young children.
+
+Leaving the cemetery and cottages behind, a too short drive brought us
+to a lovely valley, where we were to lunch at the temple of San Chew,
+in one of its fairest gorges. The meal was spread in a large hall in a
+most luxurious manner, and as the wind changed almost immediately, and
+it came on to rain, we felt ourselves fortunate indeed in having
+reached shelter. We had plenty of wraps, and the bearers ran us down
+the hill again very quickly, so that we suffered no discomfort.
+
+By the time the city walls were reached, the rain had ceased, and a
+glorious red sunset glowed over the roofs, glinting through the holes
+in the mats, and lighting up all the vermilion boards and gold
+characters with which the houses and shops are decorated. The shadowy
+streets were now full of incense or rather joss-stick smoke, for
+every house and every shop has a large altar inside, and a small one
+without, before which joss-sticks are burnt more or less all day long.
+
+The streets seemed more crowded even than usual. Each of our bearers
+struck out a line of his own, and it was not until we reached Shameen
+that we all met again. Some of the ladies had been rather frightened
+at finding themselves alone in the dark, crowded city. We were only
+just in time to dress and go to dinner, after which we examined an
+interesting collection, chiefly of coins, in process of formation for
+the French Exhibition. They are carefully arranged, and will be most
+valuable and interesting when complete. The knife-and-fork coins are
+particularly curious and rare, some of them being worth as much as
+5,000 dollars each, as curiosities. All the coins have holes in the
+centre for convenience of carriage.
+
+_Sunday, March 4th_.--There is a fine cathedral at Shameen, in which
+the services are beautifully performed. A lady kindly lent us her
+house-boat, and after service we rowed across to Fa-ti, to see the
+gardens of Canton. They are laid out on an island a very short way up
+the river. The gardens are very wonderful, and contain plants cut into
+all sorts of shapes, such as men, birds, beasts, fishes, boats,
+houses, furniture, &c. Some are full-sized, others only in miniature.
+But almost all must have required considerable time and patience to
+reach their present growth, for their ages vary from 10 to 150 years.
+There are other plants not so elaborately trained, but the effect of
+the whole is rather too formal to be pretty. I managed to bring home
+some euphorbias, cut into the form of junks, and some banyan trees,
+one 100 and one 50 years old. I believe they are the first that have
+ever reached England alive and have flourished. Not far from Fa-ti are
+the duck-hatching establishments, and still further up the river are
+the duck-sampans, where the crowds of ducks are reared. They are sent
+out every morning to get their own living and return at night. Until
+they learn to obey their keeper's call quickly the last duck is always
+whipped. I am told it is most ridiculous to see the hurry of the last
+half-dozen birds of a flock of some thousands of ducks. I was most
+anxious to see them, but it is not the right time of year now. The
+young ducks are only just beginning to hatch, and the old ones are not
+numerous, and are mostly laying.
+
+There was no time to go and see the temple of Honan, for we were more
+anxious to avail ourselves of a chance of visiting some interesting
+places in the Chinese city. We went through a street, consisting
+entirely of fruiterers' shops, to which the name of Kwohlaorn, or
+fruit-market, is applied. In this market, which is of great extent,
+there is for sale at all seasons of the year an almost countless
+variety of fruit.
+
+A silkworm establishment was pointed out to us in the distance, but we
+did not go over it, as we had seen many before, and it is not the best
+season of the year. The silkworms are most carefully tended, the
+people who look after them being obliged to change their clothes
+before entering the rooms where they are kept, and to perform all
+sorts of superstitious ceremonies at every stage of the insect's
+growth. No one at all ailing or deformed is allowed to approach a
+building where they are kept. The worms are supposed to be very
+nervous, and are guarded from everything that can possibly frighten
+them, as well as from all changes of temperature or disturbances of
+the atmosphere. Thunder and lightning they are supposed specially to
+dread, and great pains are taken to shelter them by artificial means,
+and keep them from all knowledge of the storm.
+
+The next place we visited was a bird's-nest-soup-shop street, where we
+went into one of the best and most extensive establishments. There
+were three or four well-dressed assistants behind the counter, all
+busily occupied in sorting and packing birds' nests. Some of the best
+were as white as snow, and were worth two dollars each, while a light
+brown one was worth only one dollar, and the black dirty ones, full of
+feathers and moss, could be purchased at the rate of a quarter dollar.
+
+Certainly the Chinese seem an exception to the rule laid down by some
+writers, that no people can flourish who do not rest every seventh
+day. In many ways they are an abnormal people, one striking point in
+their condition being the state of dirt and filth in which they not
+only exist, but increase and multiply. The children look healthy and
+happy too, in spite of these apparent drawbacks, and notwithstanding
+the fact that in many cases their poor little feet must be cruelly
+tortured by the practice of bandaging them tightly to make them small.
+
+When we got back to Shameen there was time for a stroll along the
+Bund. It is very pleasant, for the river runs close under the parapet,
+and its surface is always covered with junks, sampans, and boats and
+ships, going swiftly up or down with the strong tide. The walk is
+shaded with trees, and seats stand at intervals all along it.
+
+An agreeable saunter was followed by a quiet, pleasant little dinner,
+and though we have been here only a few days we feel quite sorry that
+this is to be our last night in Canton, so kind has everybody been to
+us.
+
+[Illustration: Chinese Foot and boot.]
+
+_Monday, March 5th_.--I was awake and writing from half-past four this
+morning, but before I got up, a woman who comes here every day to work
+brought me some small ordinary shoes which I had purchased as
+curiosities, and took the opportunity of showing me her feet. It
+really made me shudder to look at them, so deformed and cramped up
+were they, and, as far as I could make out, she must have suffered
+greatly in the process of reducing them to their present diminutive
+size. She took off her own shoes and tottered about the room in those
+she had brought, and then asked me to show her one of mine. Having
+most minutely examined it, she observed, with a melancholy shake of
+the head, 'Missisy foot much more good, do much walky, walky; mine
+much bad, no good for walky.'
+
+Having said farewell to our kind hostess, we went off in the
+house-boat to the steamer. There was a great crowd on the lower
+deck--at least 900 Chinamen--to struggle through in order to reach the
+European quarters. We found other friends on board, who had come to
+see us off.
+
+A few minutes before nine o'clock the bell rang as a signal for our
+friends' departure, and we steamed ahead, among such a crowd of
+sampans and junks that it was more like moving through a town than
+along a river. No accident, however, occurred, though one junk and one
+sampan had the very narrowest escape.
+
+The voyage down took much longer than our voyage up, on account of the
+tide being against us, and in consequence we did not reach Hongkong
+until 3.30 p.m., when the gig with the children was soon alongside. We
+got off as soon as we could, for we expected some friends to afternoon
+tea on board the yacht. There was just time to dress before the first
+visitors arrived, and by half-past six at least two hundred had come.
+At one time quite a flotilla of boats lay around us, looking very
+pretty with all their flags flying. I think the people enjoyed it very
+much as something new, and we only wanted a band to enliven the
+proceedings.
+
+_Tuesday, March 6th_.--The little girls and I went ashore at 7.30, to
+collect all our purchases with the help of a friend. We glanced at the
+museum too, which contains some curious specimens of Chinese and
+Japanese arms and armour, and the various productions of the two
+countries, besides many strange things from the Philippine and other
+islands. I was specially interested in the corals and shells. There
+were splendid conch shells from Manilla, and a magnificent group of
+Venus flower-baskets, dredged from some enormous depth near Manilla.
+There were also good specimens of reptiles of all sorts, and of the
+carved birds' heads for which Canton is famous. They look very like
+amber, and are quite as transparent, being carved to a great depth. I
+believe the bird is a kind of toucan or hornbill, but the people here
+call it a crane.
+
+It was now time to say good-bye to Hongkong and to our kind friends,
+for we had to go on board the 'Flying Cloud,' which starts for Macao
+at two o'clock precisely, and our passages had been taken in her. Tom
+could not go with us, as he had fixed to-night for the dinner at which
+the Chinese gentlemen proposed to entertain him; but he came to see us
+off. We went out of the harbour by a different way, and passed along a
+different side of the island of Hongkong, but the scenery was not
+particularly interesting. Off Choolong a heavy ground-swell, called
+'Pon choughai,' made us roll about most unpleasantly. In bad weather,
+or with a top-heavy ship, this passage could not be attempted.
+Sometimes there are very heavy fogs, and always strong currents, so
+that the short voyage of forty-two miles is not absolutely free from
+danger.
+
+The town of Macao is situated on a peninsula at the end of the island
+of the same name. It was the first foreign settlement in China
+belonging to the Portuguese, and was once a fine, handsome town, with
+splendid buildings. Unfortunately Macao lies in the track of the
+typhoons, which at times sweep over it with a resistless force,
+shattering and smashing everything in their career. These constantly
+recurring storms, and the establishment of other ports, have resulted
+in driving many people away from the place, and the abolition of the
+coolie traffic has also tended to diminish the number of traders. Now
+the town has a desolate, deserted appearance, and the principal
+revenue of the government is derived from the numerous
+gambling-houses.
+
+We landed at the pier soon after five o'clock, and were carried
+across the peninsula through the town to the Praya on the other side.
+Here we found a large unoccupied mansion, situated in a garden
+overlooking the sea, and, having delivered our Chinese letters, were
+received with the greatest civility and attention by the comprador and
+the servants who had been left in charge of our friend's house. The
+rooms upstairs, to which we were at once shown, were lofty and
+spacious, opening into a big verandah. Each room had a mosquito room
+inside it, made of wire gauze and wood, like a gigantic meat-safe, and
+capable of containing, besides a large double bed, a chair and a
+table, so that its occupant is in a position to read and write in
+peace, even after dark. This was the first time we had seen one of
+these contrivances. By the direction of the comprador the house chairs
+were prepared, and coolies were provided to take us for an expedition
+round the town, while our things were being unpacked, and the
+necessary arrangements made for our comfort. Macao is a thoroughly
+Portuguese-looking town, the houses being painted blue, green, red,
+yellow, and all sorts of colours. It is well garrisoned, and one meets
+soldiers in every direction. We passed the fort, and went up to the
+lighthouse, which commands a fine view over land and sea; returning
+home by a different way through the town again, which we entered just
+as the cathedral bell and the bells of all the churches were pealing
+the Ave Maria. On our return we found a fire lighted and everything
+illuminated, and by half-past eight we had a capital impromptu dinner
+served. Chinese Tommy, who waited on us, had decorated the table most
+tastefully with flowers. Macao is a favourite resort for the European
+residents of Hongkong who are addicted to gambling. The gentlemen of
+our party went to observe the proceedings, but to-night there were
+only a few natives playing at fan-tan--a game which, though a great
+favourite with the natives, appears very stupid to a European. The
+croupier takes a handful of copper cash and throws it upon the table;
+he then with chop-sticks counts the coins by fours, the betting being
+upon the possible number of the remainder. It takes a long time to
+count a big handful, and you have only one, two, three, or four to
+back--no colours or combinations, as at _rouge-et-noir_, or
+_trente-et-quarante_.
+
+At Macao the sleep-disturbing watchmen, unlike those of Canton, come
+round every hour and beat two sharp taps on a drum at intervals of
+half a minute, compelling you to listen against your will, until the
+sound dies away in the distance for a brief interval.
+
+_Wednesday, March 7th_.--We started soon after ten o'clock on another
+exploring expedition, going first in chairs through the town, and
+across the peninsula to where we left the steamer yesterday. Here we
+embarked--chairs, bearers, and all, in a junk, evidently cleaned up
+for the occasion, for it was in beautiful order, and mats were spread
+under an awning upon deck.
+
+All along beneath the deck was a cabin, between two and three feet
+high, which contained the altar, the kitchen, and the sleeping and
+living apartments of the family. There was also a dear little baby,
+two months old, which seemed to take life very quietly, while its
+mother assisted its grandfather to row.
+
+We soon reached the island of Chock-Sing-Toon, and disembarked at a
+small pier near a village, which looked more like sampans pulled up on
+the shore than huts or cottages. The children and I rode in chairs,
+while the gentlemen walked, first over a plain covered with scrubby
+palms, then through miles of well-cultivated plots of vegetable
+ground, till we reached a temple, built at the entrance to the valley
+for which we were bound. Thence the path wound beside the stream
+flowing from the mountains above, and the vegetation became extremely
+luxuriant and beautiful. Presently we came to a spot where a stone
+bridge spanned the torrent, with a temple on one side and a
+joss-house on the other. It was apparently a particularly holy place,
+for our men had all brought quantities of joss-sticks and sacred paper
+with them to burn. There was a sort of eating-house close by, where
+they remained whilst we climbed higher up to get a view. The path was
+well made, and evidently much used, judging from the large number of
+natural temples we found adapted and decorated among the rocks. As
+usual, our descent was a comparatively quick affair, and we soon found
+ourselves on board the junk on our way back to Macao, beating across
+the harbour.
+
+Just before tiffin the yacht made her appearance, causing great
+excitement in the minds of the natives. The gig was soon lowered and
+came as close as she could. There was not water enough for her to come
+within four miles of the shore, but we went out to meet her occupants.
+Tom, who was one of them, looked so ill and miserable that I felt
+quite alarmed for a few minutes, till the doctor comforted me by
+assurances that it was only the effect of the Chinese dinner last
+night--an explanation I had no difficulty in accepting as the correct
+one after perusing the bill of fare. In their desire to do him honour,
+and to give him pleasure, his hosts had provided the rarest
+delicacies, and of course he felt obliged to taste them all. Some of
+the dishes were excellent, but many of them were rather trying to a
+European digestion, especially the fungus and lichen. One sort had
+been grown on ice in the Antarctic Sea, the whale's sinews came from
+the Arctic Ocean, the shark's fins from the South Sea Islands, and the
+birds' nests were of a quality to be found only in one particular cave
+in one particular island. To drink, they had champagne in English
+glasses, and arrack in Chinese glasses. The whole dinner was eaten
+with chop-sticks, though spoons were allowed for the soup. After
+dinner there were some good speeches, the chief host expressing his
+deep regret that their manners and customs did not permit them to ask
+ladies, as they were particularly anxious to invite me, and had only
+abandoned the idea of doing so after considerable discussion. I append
+the bill of fare:--
+
+
+_March_ 6, 1877.
+
+BILL OF FARE.
+
+4 _courses of small bowls, one to each guest, viz_.--
+
+   Bird's-nest Soup
+   Pigeon's Eggs
+   Ice Fungus (said to grow in ice)
+   Shark's Fins (chopped)
+
+8 _large bowls, viz_.--
+
+   Stewed Shark's Fins
+   Fine Shell Fish
+   Mandarin Bird's Nest
+   Canton Fish Maw
+   Fish Brain
+   Meat Balls with Rock Fungus
+   Pigeons stewed with Wai Shan (a strengthening herb)
+   Stewed Mushroom
+
+4 _dishes, viz_.--
+
+   Sliced Ham
+   Roast Mutton
+   Fowls
+   Roast Sucking Pig
+
+1 _large dish, viz_.--
+
+   Boiled Rock Fish
+
+8 _small bowls, viz_.--
+
+   Stewed Pig's Palate
+   Minced Quails
+   Stewed Fungus (another description)
+   Sinews of the Whale Fish
+   Rolled Roast Fowl
+   Sliced Teals
+   Stewed Duck's Paw
+   Peas stewed
+
+We went all round the town, and then to see the ruins of the
+cathedral, and the traces of the destruction caused by the typhoon in
+1874. Next we paid a visit to the garden of Camoens, where he wrote
+his poems in exile.[20] The garden now belongs to a most courteous old
+Portuguese, with whom I managed, by the aid of a mixture of Spanish
+and French, to hold a conversation. The place where Camoens' monument
+is erected commands, however, an extensive prospect, but we had
+already seen it, and as Tom was anxious to get clear of the islands
+before dark we were obliged to hasten away.
+
+[Footnote 20: Luiz de Camoens, a celebrated Portuguese poet, born
+about 1520; fought against the Moors, and in India; but was often in
+trouble, and was frequently banished or imprisoned. During his exile
+in Macao he wrote his great poem 'The Lusiads,' in which he celebrates
+the principal events in Portuguese history.]
+
+On reaching the yacht, after some delay in embarking, we slipped our
+anchor as quickly as possible, and soon found ourselves in a nasty
+rolling sea, which sent me to bed at once. Poor Tom, though he felt so
+ill that he could hardly hold his head up, was, however, obliged to
+remain on deck watching until nearly daylight; for rocks and islands
+abound in these seas, and no one on board could undertake the pilotage
+except himself.
+
+_Thursday, March 8th_.--When I went on deck at half-past six o'clock
+there was nothing to be seen but a leaden sky, a cold grey rolling
+sea, and two fishing junks in the far distance, nor did the weather
+improve all day.
+
+_Friday, March 9th_.--Everybody began to settle down to the usual sea
+occupations. There was a general hair-cutting all round, one of the
+sailors being a capital barber, and there is never time to attend to
+this matter when ashore. The wind was high and baffling all day. At
+night the Great Bear and the Southern Cross shone out with rivalling
+brilliancy: 'On either hand an old friend and a new.'
+
+_Saturday, March 10th_.--A fine day, with a light fair breeze. Passed
+the island of Hainan, belonging to China, situated at the entrance of
+the Gulf of Tonquin, which, though very barren-looking, supports a
+population of 150,000.
+
+Repacked the curiosities and purchases from Canton and Hongkong, and
+made up our accounts.
+
+About noon we passed a tall bamboo sticking straight up out of the
+water, and wondered if it were the topmast of some unfortunate junk
+sunk on the Paranella Shoal. There were many flying-fish about, and
+the sunset was lovely.
+
+_Sunday, March 11th_.--We feel that we are going south rapidly, for
+the heat increases day by day. The services were held on deck at
+eleven and four.
+
+About five o'clock I heard cries of 'A turtle on the starboard bow,'
+'A wreck on the starboard bow.' I rushed out to see what it was, and
+the men climbed into the rigging to obtain a better view of the
+object. It proved to be a large piece of wood, partially submerged,
+apparently about twenty or thirty feet long. The exposed part was
+covered with barnacles and seaweed, and there was a large iron ring
+attached to one end. We were sailing too fast to stop, or I should
+have liked to have sent a boat to examine this 'relic of the sea' more
+closely. These waifs and strays always set me thinking and wondering,
+and speculating as to what they were originally, whence they came, and
+all about them, till Tom declares I weave a complete legend for every
+bit of wood we meet floating about.
+
+_Tuesday, March 13th_.--About 2.30 a.m. the main peak halyards were
+carried away. Soon after we gybed, and for two or three hours knocked
+about in the most unpleasant manner. At daybreak we made the island of
+Pulu Lapata, or Shoe Island, situated on the coast of Cochin China,
+looking snowy white in the early morning light.
+
+The day was certainly warm, though we were gliding on steadily and
+pleasantly before the north-east monsoon.
+
+_Wednesday, March 14th_.--The monsoon sends us along at the rate of
+from six to seven knots an hour, without the slightest trouble or
+inconvenience. There is an unexpected current, though, which sets us
+about twenty-five miles daily to the westward, notwithstanding the
+fact that a 'southerly current' is marked on the chart.
+
+_March 16th_.--There was a general scribble going on all over the
+ship, in preparation for the post to-morrow, as we hope to make
+Singapore to-night, or very early in the morning. About noon Pulo Aor
+was seen on our starboard bow. In the afternoon, being so near the
+Straits, the funnel was raised and steam got up. At midnight we made
+the Homburgh Light, and shortly afterwards passed a large steamer
+steering north. It was a glorious night, though very hot below, and I
+spent most of it on deck with Tom, observing the land as we slowly
+steamed ahead half speed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+
+SINGAPORE.
+
+    _Betwixt them lawns, or level downs, and flocks_
+    _Grazing the tender herb, were interpos'd,_
+    _Or palmy hillock, or the flow'ry lap_
+    _Of some irriguous valley spread her store,_
+    _Flowers of all hues, and without thorn the rose._
+
+_Saturday, March 17th_.--We were off Singapore during the night. At 5
+a.m. the pilot came on board and took us into Tangong Pagar to coal
+alongside the wharf. We left the ship as soon as possible, and in
+about an hour we had taken forty-three tons of coal on board and
+nearly twenty tons of water. The work was rapidly performed by
+coolies. It was a great disappointment to be told by the
+harbour-master that the Governor of the Straits Settlement and Lady
+Jervoise were to leave at eleven o'clock for Johore. We determined to
+go straight to the Government House and make a morning call at the
+unearthly hour of 8 a.m. The drive from the wharf was full of beauty,
+novelty, and interest. We had not landed so near the line before, and
+the most tropical of tropical plants, trees, flowers, and ferns, were
+here to be seen, growing by the roadside on every bank and dust-heap.
+
+The natives, Malays, are a fine-looking, copper-coloured race, wearing
+bright-coloured sarongs and turbans. There are many Indians, too, from
+Madras, almost black, and swathed in the most graceful white muslin
+garments, when they are not too hard at work to wear anything at all.
+The young women are very good-looking. They wear not only one but
+several rings, and metal ornaments in their noses, and a profusion of
+metal bangles on their arms and legs, which jingle and jangle as they
+move.
+
+The town of Singapore itself is not imposing, its streets, or rather
+roads of wooden huts and stone houses, being mixed together
+indiscriminately. Government House is on the outskirts of the city in
+the midst of a beautiful park which is kept in excellent order, the
+green turf being closely mown and dotted with tropical trees and
+bushes. The House itself is large and handsome, and contains splendid
+suites of lofty rooms, shaded by wide verandahs, full of ferns and
+palms, looking deliciously green and cool. We found the Governor and
+his family did not start until 11.30, and they kindly begged us to
+return to breakfast at half-past nine, which we did. Before finally
+leaving, Sir William Jervoise sent for the Colonial Secretary, and
+asked him to look after us in his absence. He turned out to be an old
+schoolfellow and college friend of Tom's at Rugby and Oxford; so the
+meeting was a very pleasant one. As soon as the Governor and his suite
+had set off for Johore we went down into the hot dusty town to get our
+letters, parcels, and papers, and to look at the shops. There are not
+many Malay specialities to be bought here; most of the curiosities
+come from India, China, and Japan, with the exception of birds of
+Paradise from New Guinea, and beautiful bright birds of all colours
+and sizes from the various islands in the Malay Archipelago.
+
+The north-east monsoon still blows fresh and strong, but it was
+nevertheless terribly hot in the streets, and we were very glad to
+return to the cool, shady rooms at Government House, where we
+thoroughly appreciated the delights of the punkah.
+
+There are very few European servants here, and they all have their own
+peons to wait on them, and carry an umbrella over them when they drive
+the carriage or go for a walk on their own account. Even the private
+soldier in Singapore has a punkah pulled over his bed at night. It is
+quite a sight to meet all the coolies leaving barracks at 5 a.m., when
+they have done punkah-pulling.
+
+At four o'clock Mr. Douglas called to take us for a drive. We went
+first to the Botanical Gardens, and saw sago-palms and all sorts of
+tropical produce flourishing in perfection. There were many beautiful
+birds and beasts, Argus pheasants, Lyre birds, cuckoos, doves, and
+pigeons, more like parrots than doves in the gorgeous metallic lustre
+of their plumage. The cages were large, and the enclosures in front
+full of Cape jasmine bushes (covered with buds) for the birds to peck
+at and eat.
+
+From the gardens we went for a drive through the pretty villas that
+surround Singapore in every direction. Every house outside the town is
+built on a separate little hill in order to catch every breath of
+fresh air. There is generally rather a long drive up to the houses,
+and the public roads run along the valleys between them.
+
+It was now dark, and we returned to dine at Government House.
+
+_Sunday, March 18th_.--At six o'clock this morning Mabelle and I went
+ashore with the steward and the comprador to the market. It is a nice,
+clean, octagonal building, well supplied with vegetables and curious
+fruits. The latter are mostly brought from the other islands, as this
+is the worst season of the year in Singapore for fruit. I do not quite
+understand why this should be, for, as it is only a degree above the
+line, there is very little variation in the seasons here. The sun
+always rises and sets at six o'clock all the year round; for months
+they have a north-east monsoon, and then for months together a
+south-west monsoon.
+
+We tasted many fruits new to us--delicious mangosteens, lacas, and
+other fruits whose names I could not ascertain. Lastly, we tried a
+durian, _the_ fruit of the East, as it is called by people who live
+here, and having got over the first horror of the onion-like odour we
+found it by no means bad.
+
+The fish market is the cleanest, and best arranged, and sweetest
+smelling that I ever went through. It is situated on a sort of open
+platform, under a thick thatched roof, built out over the sea, so that
+all the refuse is easily disposed of and washed away by the tide. From
+the platform on which it stands, two long jetties run some distance
+out into the sea, so that large fishing boats can come alongside and
+discharge their cargoes from the deep at the door of the market with
+scarcely any exposure to the rays of the tropical sun.
+
+The poultry market is a curious place. On account of the intense heat
+everything is brought alive to the market, and the quacking, cackling,
+gobbling, and crowing that go on are really marvellous. The whole
+street is alive with birds in baskets, cages, and coops, or tied by
+the leg and thrown down anyhow. There were curious pheasants and
+jungle-fowl from Perak, doves, pigeons, quails, besides cockatoos,
+parrots, parrakeets, and lories. They are all very tame and very
+cheap; and some of the scarlet lories, looking like a flame of fire,
+chatter in the most amusing way. I have a cage full of tiny parrots
+not bigger than bullfinches, of a dark green colour, with dark red
+throats and blue heads, yellow marks on the back, and red and yellow
+tails. Having bought these, everybody seemed to think that I wanted an
+unlimited supply of birds, and soon we were surrounded by a chattering
+crowd, all with parrots in their hands and on their shoulders. It was
+a very amusing sight, though rather noisy, and the competition reduced
+the prices very much. Parrakeets ranged from twelve to thirty cents
+apiece, talking parrots and cockatoos from one to five dollars. At
+last the vendors became so energetic that I was glad to get into the
+gharry again, and drive away to a flower shop, where we bought some
+gardenias for one penny a dozen, beautifully fresh and fragrant, but
+with painfully short stalks.
+
+Towards the end of the south-west monsoon, little native open boats
+arrive from the islands 1,500 to 3,000 miles to the southward of
+Singapore. Each has one little tripod mast. The whole family live on
+board. The sides of the boat cannot be seen for the multitudes of
+cockatoos, parrots, parrakeets, and birds of all sorts, fastened on
+little perches, with very short strings attached to them. The decks
+are covered with sandal-wood. The holds are full of spice, shells,
+feathers, and South Sea pearl shells. With this cargo they creep from
+island to island, and from creek to creek, before the monsoon, till
+they reach their destination. They stay a month or six weeks, change
+their goods for iron, nails, a certain amount of pale green or Indian
+red thread for weaving, and some pieces of Manchester cotton. They
+then go back with the north-east monsoon, selling their goods at the
+various islands on their homeward route. There are many Dutch ports
+nearer than Singapore, but they are over-regulated, and preference is
+given to the free English port, where the simple natives can do as
+they like so long as they do not transgress the laws.
+
+As we were going on board, we met the Maharajah of Johore's servant,
+just going off with invitations to dinner, lunch, and breakfast for
+the next two days for all our party, and with all sorts of kind
+propositions for shooting and other amusements.
+
+Some of our friends came off before luncheon to see the yacht, and we
+returned with them to tiffin at Government House. At four o'clock the
+carriage came round to take us to Johore. We wished good-bye to
+Singapore and all our kind friends, and started on a lovely drive
+through the tropical scenery. There is a capital road, fifteen miles
+in length, across the island, and our little ponies rattled along at a
+good pace. There was a pleasant breeze and not much dust, no sun, and
+a stream ran the whole way by the side of the road. The acacia
+flamboyante--that splendid tree which came originally from Rangoon and
+Sumatra--was planted alongside the road, and produced a most charming
+effect. It is a large tree, with large leaves of the most delicate
+green; on its topmost boughs grow gorgeous clusters of scarlet flowers
+with yellow centres, and the effect of these scarlet plumes tossing in
+the air is truly beautiful. As we were driving along we espied a
+splendid butterfly, with wings about ten inches long. Mr. Bingham
+jumped out of the carriage and knocked it down with his hat; but it
+was so like the colour of leaves in grass that in the twilight nobody
+could distinguish it, and, to our great disappointment, we could not
+find it. We were equally unsuccessful in our attempted capture of a
+water-snake a couple of feet long. We threw sticks and stones and our
+syce waded into the stream, but all to no purpose; it glided away into
+some safe little hole under the bank.
+
+We reached the sea-shore about six o'clock, and found the Maharajah's
+steam-launch waiting to convey us across the Straits to the mainland.
+These Straits used to be the old route to Singapore, and are somewhat
+intricate. Tom engaged a very good pilot to bring the yacht round, but
+at the last moment thought that he should like to bring her himself;
+the result being that he arrived rather late for dinner. The Maharajah
+and most of the party were out shooting when we arrived; but Sir
+William Jervoise met us and showed us round the place, and also
+arranged about rooms for us to dress in. Johore is a charming place;
+the Straits are so narrow and full of bends that they look more like a
+peaceful river or inland lake in the heart of a tropical forest than
+an arm of the mighty ocean. As we approached we had observed a good
+deal of smoke rising from the jungle, and, as the shades of evening
+closed over the scene, we could see the lurid glare of two extensive
+fires.
+
+We sat down thirty to dinner at eight o'clock. There were the
+Maharajah's brothers, the Prime Minister, Harkim or judge, and several
+other Malay chiefs, the Governor of the Straits Settlements, his
+family and suite, and one or two people from Singapore. The dinner was
+cooked and served in European style; the table decorated with gold and
+silver épergnes full of flowers, on velvet stands, and with heaps of
+small cut-flower glasses full of jasmine. We were waited on by the
+Malay servants of the establishment, dressed in grey and yellow, and
+by the Governor's Madras servants, in white and scarlet. The Maharajah
+and his native guests were all in English evening dress, with white
+waistcoats, bright turbans, and sarongs. The room was large and open
+on all sides, and the fresh evening breeze, in addition to the
+numerous punkahs, made it delightfully cool. The Maharajah is a strict
+Mohammedan himself, and drinks nothing but water. I spent the three
+hours during which the dinner lasted in very pleasant conversation
+with my two neighbours. We returned on board soon after eleven
+o'clock.
+
+[Illustration: Maharajah of Johore's House.]
+
+_Monday, March 19th_.--Mabelle and I went ashore at six o'clock for a
+drive. It was a glorious morning, with a delightfully cool breeze,
+and the excursion was most enjoyable. We drove first through the old
+town of Johore, once of considerable importance, and still a place of
+trade for opium, indigo, pepper, and other tropical products. Nutmeg
+and maize used to be the great articles of export, but latterly the
+growth has failed, and, instead of the groves we had expected to see,
+there were only solitary trees. After leaving the town we went along a
+good road for some distance, with cottages and clearings on either
+side, until we came to a pepper and gambir plantation. The two crops
+are cultivated together, and both are grown on the edge of the jungle,
+for the sake of the wood, which is burned in the preparation of the
+gambir. I confess that I had never heard of the latter substance
+before, but I find that it is largely exported to Europe, where it is
+occasionally employed for giving weight to silks, and for tanning
+purposes.
+
+The pepper garden we saw was many acres in extent. Some of the trees
+in the forest close by are very fine, especially the camphor-wood, and
+the great red, purple, and copper-coloured oleanders, which grow in
+clumps twenty and thirty feet in height. The orchids with which all
+the trees were covered, hanging down in long tassels of lovely
+colours, or spread out like great spotted butterflies and insects,
+were most lovely of all. By far the most abundant was the white
+phalænopsis, with great drooping sprays of pure white waxy blossoms,
+some delicately streaked with crimson, others with yellow. It was a
+genuine jungle, and we were told that it is the resort of numerous
+tigers and elephants, and that snakes abound.
+
+On our way back through the town we stopped to see the process of
+opium making. This drug is brought from India in an almost raw state,
+rolled up in balls, about the size of billiard balls, and wrapped in
+its own leaves. Here it is boiled down, several times refined, and
+prepared for smoking. The traffic in it forms a very profitable
+monopoly, which is shared in Singapore between the English Government
+and the Maharajah of Johore.
+
+We also saw indigo growing; the dye is prepared very much in the same
+way as the gambir. That grown here is not so good as that which comes
+from India, and it is therefore not much exported, though it is used
+by the innumerable Chinese in the Malay peninsula to dye all their
+clothes, which are invariably of some deep shade of blue. We saw
+sago-palms growing, but the mill was not working, so that we could not
+see the process of manufacture; but it seems to be very similar to the
+preparation of tapioca, which we had seen in Brazil.
+
+On our passage through the town we went to look at a large gambling
+establishment; of course no one was playing so early in the morning,
+but in the evening it is always densely crowded, and is a great source
+of profit to the proprietor. I could not manage to make out exactly
+from the description what the game they play is like, but it was not
+fan-tan. We now left the carriage, and strolled to see the people, the
+shops, and the market. I bought all sorts of common curiosities,
+little articles of everyday life, some of which will be sure to amuse
+and interest my English friends. Among my purchases were a wooden
+pillow, some joss candles, a two-stringed fiddle, and a few preserved
+eggs, which they say are over a hundred years old. The eggs are
+certainly nasty enough for anything; still it seems strange that so
+thrifty a people as the Chinese should allow so much capital to lie
+dormant--literally buried in the earth.
+
+At half-past nine o'clock the Maharajah, with the Governor and all his
+guests, came on board. His Highness inspected the yacht with the
+utmost minuteness and interest, though his Mohammedan ideas about
+women were considerably troubled when he was told that I had had a
+great deal to do with the designing and arrangement of the interior.
+At half-past eleven the party left, and an hour afterwards we went to
+make our adieux to the Maharajah.
+
+On our departure the Maharajah ordered twenty coolies to accompany
+us, laden with fragrant tropical plants. He also gave me some splendid
+Malay silk sarongs, grown, made, and woven in his kingdom, a pair of
+tusks of an elephant shot within a mile of the house, besides a live
+little beast, not an alligator, and not an armadillo or a lizard; in
+fact I do not know what it is; it clings round my arm just like a
+bracelet, and it was sent as a present by the ex-Sultan of Johore.
+Having said farewell to our kind host and other friends, we pushed off
+from the shore, and embarked on board the yacht; the anchor was up,
+and by five o'clock a bend in the Straits hid hospitable and pleasant
+Johore from our view, and all we could see was the special steamer on
+her way back to Singapore with the Maharajah's guests on board. At
+Tanjore we dropped our funny little pilot, and proceeded on our course
+towards Penang. The Straits are quite lovely, and fully repaid the
+trouble and time involved in the detour made to visit them. The sun
+set and the young moon arose over as lovely a tropical scene as you
+can possibly imagine.
+
+[Illustration: The pet Manis.]
+
+_Tuesday, March 20th_.--At 5.30, when we were called, the Doctor came
+and announced that he had something very important to communicate to
+us. This proved to be that one of our men was suffering from
+small-pox, and not from rheumatic fever, as had been supposed. My
+first thought was that Muriel had been with the Doctor to see him
+yesterday evening; my next, that many men had been sleeping in the
+same part of the vessel with him; my third, that for his greater
+comfort he had been each day in our part of the ship; and my fourth,
+what was to be done now? After a short consultation, Tom decided to
+alter our course for Malacca, where we arrived at half-past nine; the
+Doctor at once went on shore in a native prahu to make the best
+arrangements he could under the circumstances. He was fortunate enough
+to find Dr. Simon, nephew of the celebrated surgeon of the same name,
+installed as head physician at the civil hospital here. He came off at
+once with the hospital boat, and, having visited the invalid, declared
+his illness to be a very mild case of small-pox. He had brought off
+some lymph with him, and recommended us all to be re-vaccinated. He
+had also brought sundry disinfectants, and gave instructions about
+fumigating and disinfecting the yacht. All the men were called upon
+the quarter-deck, and addressed by Tom, and we were surprised to find
+what a large proportion of them objected to the operation of
+vaccination. At last, however, the prejudices of all of them, except
+two, were overcome. One of the latter had promised his grandfather
+that he never would be vaccinated under any circumstances, while
+another would consent to be inoculated, but would not be vaccinated.
+We had consulted our own medical man before leaving England, and knew
+that for ourselves the operation was not necessary, but we
+nevertheless underwent it _pour encourager les autres_. While the
+Doctor was on shore we had been surrounded by boats bringing monkeys,
+birds, ratan and Malacca canes, fruit, rice, &c., to sell, and as I
+did not care to go ashore, thinking there might be some bother about
+quarantine, we made bargains over the side of the yacht with the
+traders, the result being that seven monkeys, about fifty birds of
+sorts, and innumerable bundles of canes, were added to the stock on
+board. In the meantime Dr. Simon had removed our invalid to the
+hospital.
+
+Malacca looks exceedingly pretty from the sea. It is a regular Malay
+village, consisting of huts, built on piles close to the water,
+overshadowed by cocoa palms and other forms of tropical vegetation.
+Mount Ofia rises in the distance behind; there are many green islands,
+too, in the harbour. By one o'clock we were again under way, and once
+more _en route_ for Penang.
+
+[Illustration: MALACCA]
+
+_Wednesday, March 21st_.--During the night we had heavy thunder
+storms. About 11 a.m. we passed a piece of drift-wood with a bird
+perched on the top, presenting a most curious effect. Several of the
+men on board mistook it for the back fin of a large shark. About 5
+p.m. we made the island of Penang. After sunset it became very hazy,
+and we crept slowly up, afraid of injuring the numerous stake nets
+that are set about the Straits most promiscuously, and without any
+lights to mark their position. Before midnight we had dropped our
+anchor.
+
+_Thursday, March 22nd_.--At 5 a.m., when we were called, the whole sky
+was overcast with a lurid glare, and the atmosphere was thick, as if
+with the fumes of some vast conflagration. As the sun rose in raging
+fierceness, the sky cleared, and became of a deep, clear, transparent
+blue. The island of Penang is very beautiful, especially in the early
+morning light. It was fortunate we did not try to come in last night,
+as we could now see that we must inevitably have run through some of
+the innumerable stake nets I mentioned. As we approached Georgetown,
+the capital of the province, we passed many steamers and sailing ships
+at anchor in the roads. A pilot offered his services, but Tom declined
+them with thanks, and soon afterwards skilfully brought us up close in
+shore in the crowded roadstead. The harbour-master sent off, as did
+also the mail-master, but no Board of Health officials appeared; so,
+after some delay, the Doctor went on shore to find the local medical
+man, promising shortly to return. He did not, however, reappear, and,
+after waiting a couple of hours, we landed without opposition. We
+packed off all the servants for a run on shore, and had all the fires
+put out in order to cool the ship. Our first inquiry was for an hotel
+where we could breakfast, and we were recommended to go to the Hôtel
+de l'Europe.
+
+Our demands for breakfast were met at first with the reply that it was
+too late, and that we must wait till one o'clock tiffin; but a little
+persuasion induced the manager to find some cold meat, eggs, and
+lemonade. We afterwards drove out to one or two shops, but anything so
+hopeless as the stores here I never saw. Not a single curiosity could
+we find, not even a bird. We drove round the town, and out to the
+Governor's house; he was away, but we were most kindly received by
+Mrs. Anson and his daughter, and strongly recommended by them to make
+an expedition to the bungalow at the top of the hill. In about an hour
+and a half, always ascending, we reached the Governor's bungalow,
+situated in a charming spot, where the difference of 10° in the
+temperature, caused by being 1,500 feet higher up, is a great boon.
+After tiffin and a rest at the hotel, a carriage came to take us to
+the foot of the hill, about four miles from the town. We went first
+to a large Jesuit establishment, where some most benevolent old
+priests were teaching a large number of Malay boys reading, writing,
+and geography. Then we went a little further, and, in a small wooden
+house, under the cocoa trees, at last found some of the little humming
+birds for which the Malay Archipelago is famous. They glisten with a
+marvellous metallic lustre all over their bodies, instead of only in
+patches, as one sees upon those in South America and the West Indies.
+The drive was intensely tropical in character, until we reached the
+waterfall, where we left the carriage and got into chairs, each
+carried by six coolies. The scenery all about the waterfall is lovely,
+and a large stream of sparkling, cool, clear water tumbling over the
+rocks was most refreshing to look at. Many people who have business in
+Penang live up here, riding up and down morning and evening, for the
+sake of the cool, refreshing night air. One of the most curious things
+in vegetation which strikes our English eyes is the extraordinary
+abundance of the sensitive plant. It is interwoven with all the grass,
+and grows thickly in all the hedgerows. In the neatly kept turf, round
+the Government bungalow, its long, creeping, prickly stems,
+acacia-like leaves, and little fluffy mauve balls of flowers are so
+numerous, that, walking up and down the croquet lawn, it appears to be
+bowing before you, for the delicate plants are sensible of even an
+approaching footstep, and shut up and hide their tiny leaves among the
+grass long before you really reach them.
+
+From the top of the hill you can see ninety miles in the clear
+atmosphere, far away across the Straits of Perak to the mainland. We
+could not stay long, and were carried down the hill backwards, as our
+bearers were afraid of our tumbling out of the chairs if we travelled
+forwards. The tropical vegetation is even more striking here, but,
+alas! it is already losing its novelty to us. Those were indeed
+pleasant days when everything was new and strange; it seems now
+almost as if years, not months, had gone past since we first entered
+these latitudes. We found the carriage waiting for us when we arrived
+at the bottom of the hill about seven o'clock, and it was not long
+before we reached the town.
+
+The glowworms and fireflies were numerous. The natives were cooking
+their evening meal on the ground beneath the tall palm-trees as we
+passed, with the glare of the fires lighting up the picturesque huts,
+their dark figures relieved by their white and scarlet turbans and
+waist-cloth. The whole scene put us very much in mind of the old
+familiar pictures of India, the lithe figures of the natives looking
+like beautiful bronze statues, the rough country carts, drawn by
+buffaloes without harness, but dragging by their hump, and driven by
+black-skinned natives armed with a long goad. We went straight to the
+jetty, and found to our surprise that in the roads there was quite a
+breeze blowing, and a very strong tide running against it, which made
+the sea almost rough.
+
+Mrs. and Miss Anson, Mr. Talbot, and other friends, dined with us. At
+eleven they landed, and we weighed anchor, and were soon gliding
+through the Straits of Malacca, shaping for Acheen Head, _en route_ to
+Galle.
+
+It seems strange that an important English settlement like Penang,
+where so many large steamers and ships are constantly calling, should
+be without lights or quarantine laws. We afterwards learned on shore
+that the local government had already surveyed and fixed a place for
+two leading lights. The reason why no health officers came off to us
+this morning was probably that, small-pox and cholera both being
+prevalent in the town, they thought that the fewer questions they
+asked, and the less they saw of incoming vessels, the better.
+
+_Friday, March 23rd_.--A broiling day, everybody panting, parrots and
+parrakeets dying. We passed a large barque with every sail set,
+although it was a flat calm, which made us rejoice in the possession
+of steam-power. Several people on board are very unwell, and the
+engineer is really ill. It is depressing to speculate what would
+become of us if anything went wrong in the engine-room department, and
+if we should be reduced to sail-power alone in this region of
+calmness. At last even I know what it is to be too hot, and am quite
+knocked up with my short experience.
+
+[Illustration: How the Journal was written]
+
+_Saturday, March 24th_.--Another flat calm. The after-forecastle,
+having been battened down and fumigated for the last seventy-two
+hours, was to-day opened, and its contents brought up on deck, some to
+be thrown overboard, and others to be washed with carbolic acid. I
+never saw such quantities of things as were turned out; they covered
+the whole deck, and it seemed as if their cubic capacity must be far
+greater than that of the place in which they had been stowed. Besides
+the beds and tables of eight men, there were forty-eight birds, four
+monkeys, two cockatoos, and a tortoise, besides Japanese cabinets and
+boxes of clothes, books, china, coral, shells, and all sorts of
+imaginable and unimaginable things. One poor tortoise had been killed
+and bleached white by the chlorine gas.
+
+_Sunday, March 25th_.--Hotter than ever. It was quite impossible to
+have service either on deck or below. We always observe Sunday by
+showing a little extra attention to dress, and, as far as the
+gentlemen are concerned, a little more care in the matter of shaving.
+On other days I fear our toilets would hardly pass muster in civilised
+society. Tom set the example of leaving off collars, coats, and
+waistcoats; so shirts and trousers are now the order of the day. The
+children wear grass-cloth pinafores and very little else, no shoes or
+stockings, Manilla or Chinese slippers being worn by those who dislike
+bare feet. I find my Tahitian and Hawaiian dresses invaluable: they
+are really cool, loose, and comfortable, and I scarcely ever wear
+anything else.
+
+We passed a large steamer about 7.30 a.m., and in the afternoon
+altered our course to speak the 'Middlesex,' of London, bound to the
+Channel for orders. We had quite a long conversation with the captain,
+and parted with mutual good wishes for a pleasant voyage. It was a
+lovely moonlight night, but very hot, though we found a delightful
+sleeping-place beneath the awning on deck.
+
+_Monday, March 26th_.--The sun appeared to rise even fiercer and
+hotter than ever this morning. I have been very anxious for the last
+few days about Baby, who has been cutting some teeth and has suffered
+from a rash. Muriel has been bitten all over by mosquitoes, and
+Mabelle has also suffered from heat-rash. Just now every little
+ailment suggests small-pox to our minds.
+
+About noon, when in latitude 6.25 North, and in longitude 88.25 East,
+we began to encounter a great deal of drift wood, many large trees,
+branches, plants, leaves, nautilus shells, back-bones of cuttlefish,
+and, in addition, large quantities of yellow spawn, evidently
+deposited by some fish of large size. The spawn appeared to be of a
+very solid, consistent character, like large yellow grapes, connected
+together in a sort of gelatinous mass. It formed a continuous wide
+yellow streak perhaps half a mile in length, and with the bits of wood
+and branches sticking up in its midst at intervals, it would not have
+required a very lively imagination to fashion it at a little distance
+into a sea serpent. Where does all this _débris_ come from? was the
+question asked by everybody. Out of the Bay of Bengal probably,
+judging from the direction of the current. We wondered if it could
+possibly be the remains of some of the trees uprooted by the last
+great cyclone.
+
+At 1.30 p.m. a man cried out from the rigging, 'Boat on the starboard
+bow!' a cry that produced great excitement immediately; our course was
+altered and telescopes and glasses brought to bear upon the object in
+question. Every one on board, except our old sailing master, said it
+was a native boat. Some even said that they could see a man on board
+waving something. Powell alone declared it to be the root of a palm
+from the Bay of Bengal, and he proved right. A very large root it was,
+with one single stem and a few leaves hanging down, which had exactly
+the appearance of broken masts, tattered sails, and torn rigging. We
+went close alongside to have a good look at it; the water was as clear
+as crystal, and beneath the surface were hundreds of beautifully
+coloured fish, greedily devouring something--I suppose small insects,
+or fish entangled among the roots.
+
+_Tuesday, March 27th_.--It requires a great effort to do anything,
+except before sunrise or after sunset, owing to the intense heat; and
+when one is not feeling well it makes exertion still more difficult.
+At night the heat below is simply unbearable; the cabins are deserted,
+and all mattresses are brought up on deck.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+CEYLON.
+
+    _Thus was this place
+    _A happy rural seat of various views,_
+    _Groves whose rich trees wept odorous gums and balm,_
+    _Others, whose fruit, burnish'd with golden rind,_
+    _Hung amiable, Hesperian fables true._
+
+_Wednesday, March 28th_.--At midnight the wind was slightly ahead, and
+we could distinctly smell the fragrant breezes and spicy odours of
+Ceylon. We made the eastern side of the island at daylight, and
+coasted along its palm-fringed shores all day. I had been very unwell
+for some days past, but this delightful indication of our near
+approach to the land seemed to do me good at once. If only the
+interior is as beautiful as what we can see from the deck of the
+yacht, my expectations will be fully realised, brilliant as they are.
+
+As the sun set, the beauty of the scene from the deck of the yacht
+seemed to increase. We proceeded slowly, and at about nine o'clock
+were in the roads of Galle and could see the ships at anchor. Tom did
+not like to venture further in the dark without a pilot, and
+accordingly told the signal-man to make signals for one, but being
+impatient he sent up a rocket, besides burning blue lights, a mistake
+which had the effect of bringing the first officer of the P. and O.
+steamship 'Poonah' on board, who thought perhaps we had got aground or
+were in trouble of some sort. He also informed us that pilots never
+came off after dark, and kindly offered to show us a good anchorage
+for the night.
+
+_Thursday, March 29th_.--The pilot came off early, and soon after six
+we dropped anchor in Galle harbour. The entrance is fine, and the bay
+one of the most beautiful in the world. The picturesque town, with its
+old buildings, and the white surf dashing in among the splendid
+cocoa-trees which grow down to the water's edge, combined to make up a
+charming picture. We went on board the 'Poonah' to breakfast as
+arranged, and afterwards all over the ship, which is in splendid
+order. Thence we went ashore to the Oriental Company's Hotel, a most
+comfortable building, with a large, shady verandah, which to-day was
+crowded by passengers from the 'Poonah.' At tiffin there was a great
+crowd, and we met some old friends. At three o'clock we returned to
+the yacht, to show her to the captain of the 'Poonah' and some of his
+friends, and an hour later we started in two carriages for a drive to
+Wockwalla, a hill commanding a splendid view. The drive was
+delightful, and the vegetation more beautiful than any we have seen
+since leaving Tahiti, but it would have been more enjoyable if we had
+not been so pestered by boys selling flowers and bunches of mace in
+various stages of development. It certainly is very pretty when the
+peach-like fruit is half open and shows the network of scarlet
+mace surrounding the brown nutmeg within. From Wockwalla the view
+is lovely, over paddy-fields, jungle, and virgin forest, up to
+the hills close by and to the mountains beyond. There is a small
+refreshment-room at the top of the hill, kept by a nice little mulatto
+woman and her husband. Here we drank lemonade, ate mangoes, and
+watched the sun gradually declining, but we were obliged to leave
+before it had set, as we wanted to visit the cinnamon gardens on our
+way back. The prettiest thing in the whole scene was the river running
+through the middle of the landscape, and the white-winged,
+scarlet-bodied cranes, disporting themselves along the banks among the
+dark green foliage and light green shoots of the crimson-tipped
+cinnamon-trees. We had a glorious drive home along the sea-shore
+under cocoa-nut trees, amongst which the fireflies flitted, and
+through which we could see the red and purple afterglow of the sunset.
+Ceylon is, as every one knows, celebrated for its real gems, and
+almost as much for the wonderful imitations offered for sale by the
+natives. Some are made in Birmingham and exported, but many are made
+here and in India, and are far better in appearance than ours, or even
+those of Paris. More than once in the course of our drive, half-naked
+Indians produced from their waist-cloths rubies, sapphires, and
+emeralds for which they asked from one to four thousand rupees, and
+gratefully took fourpence, after a long run with the carriage, and
+much vociferation and gesticulation. After _table-d'hôte_ dinner at
+the hotel we went off to the yacht in a pilot boat; the buoys were all
+illuminated, and boats with four or five men in them, provided with
+torches, were in readiness to show us the right way out. By ten
+o'clock we were outside the harbour and on our way to Colombo.
+
+_Friday, March 30th_.--It rained heavily during the night, and we were
+obliged to sleep in the deck-house instead of on deck. At daylight all
+was again bright and beautiful, and the cocoanut-clad coast of Ceylon
+looked most fascinating in the early morning light. About ten o'clock
+we dropped our anchor in the harbour at Colombo, which was crowded
+with shipping. 175,000 coolies have been landed here within the last
+two or three months; consequently labour is very cheap this year in
+the coffee plantations.
+
+The instant we anchored we were of course surrounded by boats selling
+every possible commodity and curiosity, carved ebony, ivory,
+sandal-wood, and models of the curious boats in use here. These boats
+are very long and narrow, with an enormous outrigger and large sail,
+and when it is very rough, nearly the whole of the crew of the boat go
+out one by one, and sit on the outrigger to keep it in the water, from
+which springs the Cingalese saying, 'One man, two men, four men
+breeze.' The heat was intense, though there was a pleasant breeze
+under the awning on deck; we therefore amused ourselves by looking
+over the side and bargaining with the natives, until our letters,
+which we had sent for, arrived. About one o'clock we went ashore,
+encountering on our way some exceedingly dreadful smells, wafted from
+ships laden with guano, bones, and other odoriferous cargoes. The
+inner boat harbour is unsavoury and unwholesome to the last degree,
+and is just now crowded with many natives of various castes from the
+south of India.
+
+Colombo is rather a European-looking town, with fine buildings and
+many open green spaces, where there were actually soldiers playing
+cricket, with great energy, under the fierce rays of the midday sun.
+We went at once to an hotel and rested; loitering after tiffin in the
+verandah, which was as usual crowded with sellers of all sorts of
+Indian things. Most of the day was spent in driving about, and having
+made our arrangements for an early start to-morrow, we then walked
+down to the harbour, getting drenched on our way by a tremendous
+thunderstorm.
+
+_Saturday, March 31st_.--Up early, and after rather a scramble we went
+ashore at seven o'clock, just in time to start by the first train to
+Kandy. There was not much time to spare, and we therefore had to pay
+sovereigns for our tickets instead of changing them for rupees,
+thereby receiving only ten instead of eleven and a half, the current
+rate of exchange that day. It seemed rather sharp practice on the part
+of the railway company (_alias_ the Government) to take sovereigns in
+at the window at ten rupees, and sell them at the door for eleven and
+a half, to speculators waiting ready and eager to clutch and sell them
+again at an infinitesimally small profit.
+
+The line to Kandy is always described as one of the most beautiful
+railways in the world, and it certainly deserves the character. The
+first part of the journey is across jungle and through plains; then
+one goes climbing up and up, looking down on all the beauties of
+tropical vegetation, to distant mountains shimmering in the glare and
+haze of the burning sun. The carriages were well ventilated and
+provided with double roofs, and were really tolerably cool.
+
+About nine o'clock we reached Ambepussa, and the scenery increased in
+beauty from this point. A couple of hours later we reached Peradeniya,
+the junction for Gampola. Here most of the passengers got out, bound
+for Neuera-ellia, the sanatorium of Ceylon, 7,000 feet above the sea.
+Soon after leaving the station, we passed the Satinwood Bridge. Here
+we had a glimpse of the botanical garden at Kandy, and soon afterwards
+reached the station. We were at once rushed at by two telegraph boys,
+each with a telegram of hospitable invitation, whilst a third friend
+met us with his carriage, and asked us to go at once to his house, a
+few miles out of Kandy. We hesitated to avail ourselves of his kind
+offer, as we were such a large party; but he insisted, and at once set
+off to make things ready for us, whilst we went to breakfast and rest
+at a noisy, dirty, and uncomfortable hotel. It was too hot to do
+anything except to sit in the verandah and watch planter after planter
+come in for an iced drink at the bar. The town is quite full for
+Easter, partly for the amusements and partly for the Church services;
+for on many of the coffee estates there is no church within a
+reasonable distance.
+
+About four o'clock the carriage came round for us, and having
+despatched the luggage in a gharry, we drove round the lovely lake,
+and so out to Peradeniya, where our friend lives, close to the Botanic
+Gardens. Many of the huts and cottages by the roadside have
+'small-pox' written upon them in large letters, in three languages,
+English, Sanscrit, and Cingalese, a very sensible precaution, for the
+natives are seldom vaccinated, and this terrible disease is a real
+scourge amongst them. Having reached the charming bungalow, it was a
+real luxury to lounge in a comfortable easy chair in a deep cool
+verandah, and to inhale the fragrance of the flowers, whilst lazily
+watching the setting of the sun. Directly it dipped below the horizon,
+glowworms and fireflies came out, bright and numerous as though the
+stars had come down to tread, or rather fly, a fairy dance among the
+branches of the tall palm-trees high overhead. Our rooms were most
+comfortable, and the baths delicious. After dinner we all adjourned
+once more to the verandah to watch the dancing fireflies, the
+lightning, and the heavy thunderclouds, and enjoy the cool evening
+breeze. You in England who have never been in the tropics cannot
+appreciate the intense delight of that sensation. Then we went to bed,
+and passed a most luxurious night of cool and comfortable sleep, not
+tossing restlessly about, as we had been doing for some time past.
+
+_Sunday, April 1st_.--I awoke before daylight. Our bed faced the
+windows, which were wide open, without blinds, curtains, or shutters,
+and I lay and watched the light gradually creeping over the trees,
+landscape, and garden, and the sun rising glorious from behind the
+distant mountains, shining brightly into the garden, drawing out a
+thousand fresh fragrances from every leaf and flower.
+
+By seven o'clock we found ourselves enjoying an early tea within the
+pretty bungalow in the centre of the Botanic Gardens, and thoroughly
+appreciating delicious fresh butter and cream, the first we have
+tasted for ages. We went for the most delightful stroll afterwards,
+and saw for the first time many botanical curiosities, and several
+familiar old friends growing in greater luxuriance than our eyes are
+even yet accustomed to. The groups of palms were most beautiful. I
+never saw anything finer than the tallipot-palm, and the areca, with
+the beetle-vine climbing round it; besides splendid specimens of the
+kitool or jaggery-palm. Then there was the palmyra, which to the
+inhabitant of the North of Ceylon is what the cocoa-nut is to the
+inhabitant of the South--food, clothing, and lodging. The
+pitcher-plants and the rare scarlet amherstia looked lovely, as did
+also the great groups of yellow and green stemmed bamboos. There were
+magnolias, shaddocks, hibiscus, the almost too fragrant
+yellow-flowered champac, sacred to Hindoo mythology; nutmeg and
+cinnamon trees, tea and coffee, and every other conceivable plant and
+tree, growing in the wildest luxuriance. Through the centre of the
+gardens flows the river Ambang Ganga, and the whole 140 acres are laid
+out so like an English park that, were it not for the unfamiliar
+foliage, you might fancy yourself at home.
+
+We drove back to our host's to breakfast, and directly afterwards
+started in two carriages to go to church at Kandy. The church is a
+fine large building, lofty, and cool, and well ventilated. This being
+Easter Sunday, the building was lavishly decorated with palms and
+flowers. The service was well performed, and the singing was
+excellent. The sparrows flew in and out by the open doors and windows.
+One of the birds was building a nest in a corner, and during the
+service she added to it a marabout feather, a scrap of lace, and an
+end of pink riband. It will be a curious nest when finished, if she
+adds at this rate to her miscellaneous collection.
+
+After church we walked to the Government House. Sir William Gregory
+is, unfortunately for us, away in Australia, and will not return till
+just after our departure. The entrance to it was gay with gorgeous
+scarlet lilies, brought over by some former Governor from South
+America. It is a very fine house, but unfinished. We wandered through
+the 'banquet halls deserted,' and then sat a little while in the broad
+cool airy verandah looking into the beautiful garden and on to the
+mountain beyond.
+
+At half-past eleven it was time to leave this delightfully cool
+retired spot, and to drive to a very pleasant luncheon, served on a
+polished round walnut-wood table, without any tablecloth, a novel and
+pretty plan in so hot a climate. As soon as it became sufficiently
+cool we went on round the upper lake and to the hills above, whence we
+looked down upon Kandy, one of the most charmingly placed cities in
+the world. As we came back we stopped for a few minutes at the Court,
+a very fair specimen of florid Hindoo architecture, where the judges
+sit, and justice of all kinds is administered, and where the Prince of
+Wales held the installation of the Order of St. Michael and St. George
+during his visit. We also looked in at some of the bazaars, to examine
+the brass chatties and straw-work. Then came another delicious rest in
+the verandah among the flowers until it was time for dinner. Such
+flowers as they are! The Cape jessamines are in full beauty just now,
+and our host breaks off for us great branches laden with the fragrant
+bloom.
+
+_Monday, April 2nd_.--Before breakfast I took a stroll all round the
+place, with our host, to look at his numerous pets, which include
+spotted deer, monkeys, and all sorts of other creatures. We also went
+to the stables, and saw first the horses, and the horsekeepers with
+their pretty Indian wives and children. Then we wandered down to the
+bamboo-fringed shores of the river, which rises in the mountains here,
+and flows right through the island to Trincomalee.
+
+At eleven o'clock Tom and I said 'good-bye' to the rest of the party,
+and went by train to Gampola, to take the coach to Neuera-ellia, where
+we were to stay with an old friend. We went only a dozen miles in the
+train, and then were turned out into what is called a coach, but is
+really a very small rough wagonnette, capable of holding six people
+with tolerable comfort, but into which seven, eight, and even nine
+were crammed. By the time the vehicle was fully laden, we found there
+was positively no room for even the one box into which Tom's things
+and my own had all been packed; so we had to take out indispensable
+necessaries, and tie them up in a bundle like true sailors out for a
+holiday, leaving our box behind, in charge of the station-master,
+until our return. The first part of the drive was not very
+interesting, the road passing only through paddy-fields and endless
+tea and coffee plantations. We reached Pusillawa about two o'clock,
+where we found a rough and ready sort of breakfast awaiting us. Thence
+we had a steep climb through some of the finest coffee estates in
+Ceylon, belonging to the Rothschilds, until we reached Rangbodde. Here
+there was another delay of half an hour; but although we were anxious
+to get on, to arrive in time for dinner, it was impossible to regret
+stopping amidst this lovely scenery. The house which serves as a
+resting-place is a wretched affair, but the view from the verandah in
+front is superb. A large river falls headlong over the steep wall of
+rock, forming three splendid waterfalls, which, uniting and rushing
+under a fine one-arched bridge, complete this scene of beauty and
+grandeur.
+
+We were due at Neuera-ellia at six, but we had only one pair of horses
+to drag our heavy load up the steep mountain road, and the poor
+creatures jibbed, kicked over the traces, broke them three times, and
+more than once were so near going over the edge of the precipice that
+I jumped out, and the other passengers, all gentlemen, walked the
+whole of that stage. The next was no better, the fresh pair of horses
+jibbing and kicking worse than ever. At last one kicked himself free
+of all the harness, and fell on his back in a deep ditch. If it had
+not been so tiresome, it really would have been very laughable,
+especially as everybody was more or less afraid of the poor horse's
+heels, and did not in the least know how to extricate him.
+
+In this dilemma our hunting experiences came in usefully, for with the
+aid of a trace, instead of a stirrup leather, passed round his neck,
+half-a-dozen men managed to haul the horse on to his legs again; but
+the pitchy darkness rendered the repair of damages an exceedingly
+difficult task. The horses, moreover, even when once more in their
+proper position, declined to move, but the gentlemen pushed and the
+drivers flogged and shouted, and very slowly and with many stops we
+ultimately reached the end of that stage. Here we found a young horse,
+who had no idea at all of harness; so after a vain attempt to utilise
+his services, another was sent for, thus causing further delay.
+
+It was now nine o'clock, and we were all utterly exhausted. We managed
+to procure from a cottage some new-laid eggs and cold spring water,
+and these eaten raw, with a little brandy from a hunting-flask, seemed
+to refresh us all. There was again a difficulty in starting, but, once
+fairly under way, the road was not so steep and the horses went
+better. I was now so tired, and had grown so accustomed to hairbreadth
+escapes, that, however near we went to the edge of the precipice, I
+did not feel capable of jumping out, but sat still and watched
+listlessly, wondering whether we should really go over or not. After
+many delays we reached Head-quarter House, where the warmth of the
+welcome our old friend gave us soon made us forget how tired we were.
+They had waited dinner until half-past seven, and had then given us
+up. There were blazing wood fires both in the drawing-room and in our
+bedroom, and in five minutes a most welcome dinner was put before us.
+Afterwards we could have stayed and chatted till midnight, but we were
+promptly sent off to bed, and desired to reserve the rest of our news
+until morning.
+
+_Tuesday, April 3rd_.--A ten o'clock breakfast afforded us ample
+opportunity for a delicious rest and letter-writing beforehand.
+Afterwards we strolled round the garden, full of English flowers,
+roses, carnations, mignonette, and sweet peas. Tom and the gentlemen
+went for a walk, whilst we ladies rested and chatted and wrote
+letters.
+
+After lunch we all started--a large party--to go to the athletic
+sports on the racecourse, where an impromptu sort of grand stand had
+been erected--literally a stand, for there were no seats. There were a
+great many people, and the regimental band played very well. To us it
+appeared a warm damp day, although the weather was much cooler than
+any we have felt lately. This is _the_ week of the year, and everybody
+is here from all parts of the island. People who have been long
+resident in the tropics seem to find it very cold; for the men wore
+great-coats and ulsters, and many of the ladies velvet and sables, or
+sealskin jackets. On the way back from the sports we drove round to
+see something of the settlement; it cannot be called a town, for
+though there are a good many people and houses, no two are within half
+a mile of one another. There are two packs of hounds kept here, one to
+hunt the big elk, the other a pack of harriers. The land-leeches,
+which abound in this neighbourhood, are a great plague to horses, men,
+and hounds. It rained last night, and I was specially cautioned not to
+go on the grass or to pick flowers, as these horrid creatures fix on
+one's ankle or arm without the slightest warning. I have only seen
+one, I am thankful to say, and have escaped a bite; but everybody
+seems to dread and dislike them.
+
+After dinner we went to a very pleasant ball, given by the Jinkhana
+Club, at the barracks. The room was prettily decorated with the racing
+jackets and caps of the riders in the races, and with scarlet wreaths
+of geranium and hibiscus mingled with lycopodium ferns and
+selaginella. We did not remain very late at the ball, as we had to
+make an early start next morning; but the drive home in the moonlight
+was almost as pleasant as any part of the entertainment.
+
+_Wednesday, April 4th_.--We were called at four o'clock, and
+breakfasted at five, everybody appearing either in dressing-gowns or
+in habits to see us set off. They all tried to persuade us to stay for
+the meet of the hounds at the house to-day. Another ball to-night, and
+more races, and another ball to-morrow; but we are homeward bound, and
+must hurry on. It was a lovely morning, and we waited with great
+patience at the post-house for at least an hour and a half, and
+watched the hounds come out, meet, find, and hunt a hare up and down,
+and across the valley, with merry ringing notes that made us long to
+be on horseback.
+
+We saw all the racehorses returning from their morning gallop, and
+were enlightened by the syces as to their names and respective owners.
+There were several people, a great deal of luggage, and, though last
+not least, Her Majesty's mails, all waiting, like us, for the coach.
+About a quarter to seven a message arrived, to the effect that the
+horses would _not_ come up the hill, they had been jibbing for more
+than an hour, so would we kindly go down to the coach. A swarm of
+coolies immediately appeared from some mysterious hiding-place, and
+conveyed us all, bag and baggage, down the hill, and packed us into
+the coach. Even this concession on our part did not induce the horses
+to make up their minds to move for at least another quarter of an
+hour. Then we had to stop at the hotel to pick up somebody else; but
+at last we had fairly started, eleven people in all, some inside and
+some perched on a box behind. The horses were worse than ever, tired
+to death, poor things; and as one lady passenger was very nervous and
+insisted on walking up all the acclivities, we were obliged to make up
+our pace down the hills. The Pass looked lovely by daylight, and the
+wild flowers were splendid, especially the white datura and scarlet
+rhododendron trees, which were literally covered with bloom.
+
+By daylight, the appearance of the horses was really pitiable in the
+extreme--worn-out, half-starved wretches, covered with wounds and
+sores from collars and harness, and with traces of injuries they
+inflict on themselves in their struggles to get free. When once we had
+seen their shoulders, we no longer wondered at their reluctance to
+start; it really made one quite sick to think even of the state they
+were in.
+
+If some of the permanent officials were to devote a portion of their
+time to endeavours to introduce American coaches, and to ameliorate
+the condition of the horses on this road, they would indeed confer a
+boon on their countrymen. The coachman, who was as black as jet, and
+who wore very little clothing, was a curious specimen of his class,
+and appeared by no means skilled in his craft. He drove the whole way
+down the steep zigzag road with a loose rein; at every turn the horses
+went close to the precipice, but were turned in the very nick of time
+by a little black boy who jumped down from behind and pulled them
+round by their traces without touching the bridle. We stopped at
+Rangbodde to breakfast, and again at Pusillawa. This seemed a bad
+arrangement, for we were already late; it resulted in the poor horses
+having to be unmercifully flogged in order to enable us to catch the
+train at Gampola, failing which, the coach proprietors would have had
+to pay a very heavy penalty.
+
+From Gampola we soon arrived at Peradeniya, where we met Mr. Freer,
+who was going down to Colombo. Tom had decided previously to go
+straight on, so as to have the yacht quite ready for an early start
+to-morrow. I in the meantime went to our former hosts for one night to
+pick up Mabelle and the waifs and strays of luggage.
+
+On my way from the station to the house, going over the Satinwood
+Bridge, from which there is a lovely view of the Peacock Mountain, I
+saw an Englishman whom we had observed before, washing stones in the
+bed of the river for gems. He has obtained some rubies and sapphires,
+though only of small size, and I suppose he will go on washing for
+ever, hoping to find something larger and more valuable. On one part
+of the coast of the island near Managgan the sands on the side of one
+of the rivers are formed of rubies, sapphires, garnets, and other
+precious stones washed down by the current, but they are all ground to
+pieces in the process, not one being left as big as a pin's head. The
+effect in the sunlight, when this sand is wet with the waves, is
+something dazzling, and proves that the accounts of my favourite
+Sindbad are not so fabulous as we prosaic mortals try to make out. The
+island must be rich in gems, for they seem to be picked up with hardly
+any trouble. At Neuera-ellia it is a favourite amusement for picnic
+parties to go out gem-hunting, and frequently they meet with very
+large and valuable stones by the riverside or near deserted pits,
+large garnets, cinnamon-stone, splendid cat's-eyes, amethysts, matura
+diamonds, moonstone, aquamarine, tourmaline rubies, and sapphires.
+
+[Illustration: Peacock Mountain, Ceylon.]
+
+On my arrival at the house I found that Mabelle had just returned
+with some friends, who had kindly taken charge of her during our
+absence, and that a very old friend had arrived almost directly we
+left on Monday, and had departed early this morning to climb Adam's
+Peak, the ascent of which is a long and tedious affair, but it cannot
+be difficult, as thousands of aged and infirm pilgrims go every year
+to worship at the Buddhist or Mohammedan temples at the summit. The
+giant footprint has been reverenced alike by both religions from the
+earliest ages. Its existence is differently accounted for, however, by
+the two sects. The Buddhists say it is the footprint of Buddha, and
+that an account of its origin was written 300 or 400 years B.C. The
+Mohammedans say that it is the first step Adam took when driven out of
+Paradise. They do not quarrel about it, however, but live very happily
+close beside one another in their respective temples on the very small
+summit of the mountain. The iron chains, still used by the pilgrims
+and visitors to assist them up the last weary flight of steps, are
+said to have been placed there in the time of Alexander the Great, and
+are mentioned by successive historians.
+
+After lunch I went to rest, thoroughly tired out with the hard work of
+the last two days, whilst the gentlemen went into Kandy, to see
+Buddha's tooth and a Brahmin temple.
+
+Just before sunset we went to have a last look at those lovely
+Botanical Gardens. They were more beautiful than ever in the afternoon
+light, and I saw many things which had escaped my notice before. I
+have made acquaintance with the taste of all sorts of new fruits while
+here, more than in our former journey; but this is to be explained by
+the proximity of the Botanical Gardens. I expected to revel in fruit
+all through the tropics, but, except at Tahiti, we have not done so at
+all. There is one great merit in tropical fruit, which is, that
+however hot the sun may be, when plucked from the tree it is always
+icy cold; if left for a few minutes, however, it becomes as hot as
+the surrounding atmosphere, and the charm is gone.
+
+On my return, when I went to dress for dinner, I found on my table a
+nasty-looking black beast about six inches long. It looked very
+formidable in the half-light, like a scorpion or centipede. It turned
+out, however, to be quite harmless, and a sort of millipede, and
+rather handsome, with jet-black rings, and hundreds of orange-coloured
+legs. There are a great many venomous snakes in Ceylon, but they
+always get out of the way as fast as they can, and never bite
+Europeans. All the roofs of the thatched bungalows swarm with rats,
+and in every house is kept a rat-snake, which kills and eats these
+rats. I more than once heard a great scuffle going on over my bedroom,
+which generally ended in a little squeak, indicating that the snake
+had killed, and was about to eat, his prey. One of the snakes came out
+one day in front of my window, and hung down two or three feet from
+the roof. If I had not been previously assured that he was perfectly
+harmless, it would have been rather an alarming apparition in the
+dark, and, even as it was, I must confess that for a moment I did feel
+rather frightened as I watched him spying about, darting his forked
+tongue in and out, and looking quite ready for a spring at my face.
+
+_Thursday, April 5th_.--Another early start by the seven o'clock train
+to Colombo. We were very sorry to say good-bye to our kind host, and
+when we took our departure, we were quite laden with flowers, good
+wishes, and messages for mutual friends in England. It was rather a
+hot journey down, and the train seemed full, but the scenery was
+lovely. As we approached Colombo the heat became greater, and in the
+town itself it was almost insupportable.
+
+We breakfasted at the hotel in the fort, where we were joined by Tom.
+There is one very curious thing about the hotels here. The
+sitting-rooms are all two stories high, with pointed raftered roofs.
+The bedrooms are only screened off from each other, and from the
+central room, by partitions eight or ten feet high, so that you can
+hear everything going on from end to end of the building. I am not at
+all sure that the larger amount of ventilation secured by this plan
+compensates for the extra amount of noise and want of privacy,
+especially when, as was the case to-day, there is a crying baby who
+refuses to be pacified in one of the rooms, a poor little girl ill
+with whooping cough in another, and some very noisy people, who are
+making themselves both unhappy and cross over some lost keys, in a
+third.
+
+While we were at breakfast the crows were most amusing and
+impertinent. Every door and window was open, and they were perched on
+the top of the punkah, or on the iron crossbars supporting the roof,
+watching their opportunity to pounce down and carry off the bits left
+on our plates. They did not seem to mind the waiters a bit, and, with
+their heads cocked on one side, looked as droll and saucy as possible.
+People tell you all sorts of funny stories about them; but though they
+are very entertaining to watch, and apparently perfectly tame, it
+appears to be impossible to capture one alive.
+
+By the time breakfast was over, we found that the 'Sunbeam' was
+already under way, and steaming about the anchorage; so it was not
+long before we were once more on board. Going out of harbour we passed
+a large steamer whose passengers and crew cheered us and waved their
+handkerchiefs until we were out of sight, and with that pleasant
+homely sound ringing in our ears we bade a last farewell to Colombo,
+and started on another stage of our homeward voyage. The heat was
+intense, and there was a roll outside which at once made me feel very
+uncomfortable. There was no wind all the afternoon, and the sun sank
+into the sea, glorious and golden, as we took our last look at the
+lovely island of Ceylon, the land of spice and fragrance and beauty.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+
+TO ADEN.
+
+    _Heaven speed the canvas, gallantly unfurled_
+    _To furnish and accommodate a world,_
+    _To give the Pole the produce of the sun,_
+    _And knit the unsocial climates into one._
+
+_Friday, April 6th_.--Our visit to Ceylon has been so delightful that
+I wish it could have been prolonged for a month, instead of lasting
+only a week; but in that case I should have preferred to select a
+cooler season of the year, when travelling is more practicable. A most
+interesting journey could be made through the centre of the island to
+see the ancient cities, temples, and tanks, over the road from Matelle
+to Nalandi Senadoora, to the curious rock temple at Dambool, near
+which is the fortified rock of Sigiri, and a few miles further are the
+vast ruins of Topari, or Ponamira, the mediæval capital of Ceylon. It
+is full of wonderful ruins, some of them among the oldest in the
+world. The Ranhol Dagoba, the Jayti Wana Rama, and the Galle Wihara
+and rock temple, carved out of the living rock, are alone worth a long
+journey to see. Then think of visiting Anajapoora, the city of rubies,
+the sacred capital of the kingdom of ruins, on whose splendours even
+the Chinese travellers of the early ages used to expatiate with
+fervour. From this point it would be easy to reach the peninsula of
+Jaffna, which has been peopled with Tammils for more than two thousand
+years. It is the country _par excellence_ of gardens exquisitely kept,
+and skilfully irrigated on the old Moorish system. Here are grown all
+the ingredients for the making of curry, which are sent to all parts
+of this island and to Southern India. The most important crop of all,
+however, is tobacco, whose excellence is famed throughout India, and
+of which the Rajah of Travancore holds the monopoly.
+
+Then one might go southward from Jaffna, past Aripo, and the Gulf of
+Calpentyn, until the curious reef of Adam's Bridge was reached, which
+almost connects Ceylon with India. People say it has been separated by
+some convulsion of nature in former days, and that the passage is
+gradually deepening; but recent examinations have shown that instead
+of being a remnant of the original rock by which Ceylon is supposed to
+have been once connected with the Indian continent, it is in reality a
+comparatively recent ridge of conglomerate and ironstone, covered with
+alluvial deposits carried by the current and heaped up at this
+particular point; whilst the gradual rising of the coast has
+contributed to give the reef its present altitude.
+
+Balchus tells a most improbable story of fifteen Portuguese frigates
+escaping through the passage of Panupam, when pursued by some Dutch
+cruisers in 1557. Formerly the Straits were only thirty-five yards
+wide, with a maximum depth of six feet of water, but lately they have
+been widened and deepened by ten feet, and a little Government steamer
+frequently passes through on a tour round the island. At present a
+sailing ship going from Bombay to Madras has to make a curve of five
+thousand miles in order to weather the Maldives and Ceylon. It seems a
+long course for any vessel drawing over ten feet of water to be
+obliged to take.
+
+In the centre of the channel there is a little island where a Dutch
+establishment for horse-breeding formerly stood, the original stud
+having been imported from Arabia. The horses were all turned into
+corrals and caught by means of lassos, and then conquered by
+domidores, exactly as they are at the present day in South America.
+Now the stud is dispersed, the buildings are in ruins, and all that
+remains is the Indian pagoda, where religious ceremonies, curious
+processions, and dances of nautch-girls occasionally take place and
+are attended by great crowds. To the southward again of Adam's Bridge
+is the celebrated Gulf of Manaar, from which the best pearls come.
+
+This is an exceptionally good year for pearls, and the price of the
+shells went up many rupees per thousand in the first week. The pearl
+fishery can be reached in about eight hours by steam from Colombo, and
+it would have been delightful to have visited it, had time permitted.
+We were shown an oyster with some beautiful pearls in it, all found in
+the one shell. When a boat with pearls reaches the shore, the shells
+are divided into equal heaps, one-fourth going to the boat's crew, and
+three-fourths to the Government Inspector. They keep whichever heap he
+chooses to kick; so that, being uncertain which they will get for
+themselves, the boat's crew are sure to make a fair division. These
+heaps are then divided and sold by auction in thousands, and then
+subdivided again and again. Of course it is always a matter of
+speculation as to whether you get good pearls, bad pearls, or no
+pearls at all, though this last misfortune seldom happens.
+
+The love of gambling is inherent in every Oriental mind, and the
+merest beggar with but a few pice in his wallet to buy his daily food
+will invest them in a small number of oyster-shells, hoping to find a
+pearl of great value; and, should he fail to do so, he contents
+himself with eating the oyster and hoping for better luck next time.
+The shells are generally left on the sand in carefully guarded heaps
+till they die and open, when the pearls are extracted, and the fish
+left to decay. Some of the oysters are taken in sealed-up sacks to
+Colombo, Kandy, and other inland places, in order to enable people to
+indulge their love of gambling and speculation, without the trouble of
+a journey to Manaar. Though called oysters, they are not the proper
+oyster, but a sort of avicula (_Meleagrina margaritifera_ being the
+name given by Samarik), very different from the large mother-of-pearl
+shells in which the South Sea pearls are found.
+
+I have not been able to keep my mind from running incessantly on Sir
+Emerson Tennent's delightful book on Ceylon, which describes places we
+have not ourselves visited, but which I wanted very much to see, and I
+have been so interested reading about them that I cannot help thinking
+other people will share my feelings. It seems wonderful that so much
+which is strange, beautiful, and interesting should be so easy of
+access from England, and yet that so few English travellers know
+comparatively anything of Ceylon, except Galle and Colombo, and
+perhaps Kandy and Trincomalee.
+
+_Saturday, April 7th_.--To-day we passed close to the island of
+Minnikoy, between the groups of islands called the Laccadives and
+Maldives, some of which we saw dotting the horizon; and still further
+to the south stretches the Chagos Archipelago. It was very hot all
+day, with hardly a breath of air, and we have all returned to our
+former light and airy costumes: the gentlemen to their shirts and
+trousers, the children to their pinafores and nothing else, and I to
+my beloved Tahitian dresses.
+
+Before we left England we could not make ourselves believe what we
+were told about heat in the tropics; so we started with very few
+windsails and without any punkahs or double awnings. It was all very
+well in the Atlantic or Pacific, but between Hongkong and Singapore
+the state of things became simply unbearable. The carpenter has rigged
+up a punkah, and the men have improvised some double awnings. At
+Colombo they made some windsails, so we are now better off than on our
+last hot voyage. It has been really hotter than ever to-day, but a
+pleasant breeze sprang up in the afternoon.
+
+_Sunday, April 8th_.--A delightful fresh morning after a cool night.
+Everybody looks quite different, and we begin to hope we shall carry
+the north-east monsoon right across, which would be an exceptional
+piece of good fortune. We had service in the saloon at eleven o'clock
+and at four, and though there was an unusually full attendance it was
+cool and pleasant even without the punkah. The thermometer registers
+nearly the same as it did on Friday, when we were all dead with the
+heat. The apparently nice cool breeze that refreshes our heated bodies
+does not produce any corresponding effect on the glassy surface of the
+ocean; for we find to-day, as on previous occasions, that the
+temperature, both of the water and of the air, registered by the
+thermometer, does not by any means correspond with the effect on the
+human frame.
+
+The two Chinese servants we shipped at Hongkong are a great success,
+as every one on board agrees. Even the old sailing master is obliged
+to confess that the two 'heathen Chinee' keep the mess rooms, ships'
+officers' and servants' berths much cleaner and more comfortable than
+his own sailors ever succeeded in doing. At Galle we shipped three
+black firemen, two from Bombay and one from Mozambique, a regular
+nigger, with his black woolly hair clipped into the shape of Prince of
+Wales feathers. Their names are Mahomet, Abraham, and Tom Dollar. They
+live in a little tent we have had pitched for them on deck, cook their
+own food, and do their work in the engine-room exceedingly well. In
+the intervals they are highly amused with the children's picture
+books. The picture of the durbar at Delhi delighted them, especially
+as they recognised the figures, and learned a little English through
+them. They can say a few words already, and have told me all about
+their wives and children at Mozambique and Bombay, and have shown me
+the presents they are taking home to them. They have been nearly a
+year on board the P. and O. steamship 'Poonah,' and appear to have
+saved nearly all their earnings. I do not suppose our own men could
+have stood the fearful heat below in the engine-room for many days
+together, so it was fortunate we met with these amiable salamanders.
+
+_Monday, April, 9th_.--No wind. We passed through a large shoal of
+porpoises, and at dusk we saw the light of a distant ship. At all the
+places we have recently visited we have found excellent ice-making
+machines, and have been able to get a sufficient supply to last us
+from port to port, which has been a great comfort. The machine at
+Colombo unfortunately broke down the day before we left, so that in
+the very hottest part of our voyage we have had to do without our
+accustomed luxury; and very much we miss it, not only for cooling our
+drinks, but for keeping provisions, &c. As it is, a sheep killed
+overnight is not good for dinner next day; butter is just like oil,
+and to-day in opening a drawer my fingers touched a sticky mess; I
+looked and discovered six sticks of sealing wax running slowly about
+in a state resembling treacle.
+
+_Wednesday, April 11th_.--Hotter than ever. We could see a steamer in
+the far distance. About sunset we passed through a shoal of
+flying-fish; the night was intensely hot, and everybody slept on deck.
+
+_Friday, April 13th_.--At 6 a.m. we made the island of Sokotra, and
+about seven o'clock saw 'The Brothers,' two islands where large
+quantities of turtle and ambergris are found. Though generally
+uninhabited, they are sometimes visited by the natives for the purpose
+of collecting articles of commerce.
+
+One of our large pigs took it into his head to jump overboard to-day.
+The helm was put round as quickly as possible, but the most anxious
+spying could not discover any trace of poor piggy's whereabouts; so we
+proceeded on our original course for a few minutes, when suddenly, to
+our great astonishment, we saw him alongside, having been nearly run
+down, but still gallantly swimming along. The dingy was lowered and
+two men sent in pursuit. They had, however, no easy task before them,
+for as soon as they approached, piggy swam away faster than they could
+row, and bit and fought most furiously when they tried to get him into
+the boat. It was a good half-hour's work before he was secured, yet
+when he arrived he did not appear to be in the least exhausted by his
+long swim, but bit and barked at everybody so furiously that he was
+condemned to death, to prevent the possibility of further accidents.
+It is quite clear from the foregoing incident that some pigs can swim,
+and swim very well too, without cutting their own throats in the
+process.
+
+All the afternoon a large steamer had been gradually gaining on us. We
+exchanged signals and made out that she was the 'Calypso' (?) of
+Glasgow. About half-past five she altered her course and came
+alongside to speak us. The fore-deck was crowded with the crew. On the
+bridge were many of the officers; and sitting bolt upright on a stool,
+'looking out forward' in the most amusing manner, was the captain's
+little Skye terrier. The stern was crowded with passengers, of every
+shade of colour. To our surprise a voice from among them shouted out
+'Three cheers for Mr. Brassey!' which was responded to by ringing
+shouts from all on board, and taken up again by some of our own men.
+It was a very pleasant and unexpected greeting to hear in the middle
+of the Indian Ocean. The ship soon drew ahead again, but handkerchiefs
+and caps were waved till their owners faded away into the distance.
+Meeting and passing thousands of people as you at home do daily, you
+can hardly understand the excitement a little incident like this
+causes on board ship, where even a distant sail in these lonely oceans
+makes everybody leave his occupation and crowd to look at her. Soon
+after sunset we saw the island of Abd-al-Kuri, with its fantastic
+peaks, melting into orange, gold, and purple tints, beneath the
+gorgeous Arabian afterglow.
+
+_Saturday, April 14th_.--We made Cape Rasalhir, formerly called
+Guardafui, about nine o'clock yesterday evening, and passing it during
+the night entered the Gulf of Aden.[21] All to-day we have been going
+along the Soumali coast. There is a good deal of trade carried on in
+native boats. Passing all these strange and comparatively unknown and
+little-visited islands and coasts, from which all sorts of things in
+daily use at home are brought, one dimly realises what commerce means
+and how necessary one part of the world is to the other.
+
+[Footnote 21: We found considerable difficulty in making the light,
+and since our return there have been several wrecks, and many lives
+lost, on this dangerous point.]
+
+_Sunday, April 15th_.--Still intensely hot. The usual services were
+held on deck at eleven and four o'clock. The land, both in Arabia and
+in Africa, could be seen the whole day, with precipitous mountains. In
+the afternoon we could make out the rock of Aden, and at sunset it
+stood grandly forth, looming in purple darkness against the crimson
+and blood-red sky, which gradually faded to tenderest tints of yellow
+and green, before it finally blazed forth into a radiant afterglow. At
+half-past eight a gun from the fort at Aden summoned us to show our
+colours, or rather lights. At nine o'clock we dropped our anchor in
+the roads; a boat came off with a bag of newspapers and to ask for
+orders in the morning. It was sent by the great Parsee merchants here,
+who undertake to supply us with coals, provisions, water, and
+everything we want, and spare us all trouble. For the last three or
+four days we have had a nice little breeze astern, and if we had not
+been in a hurry to cross the Indian Ocean before the south-west
+monsoon set in, we should certainly have been contented with four or
+five knots an hour under sail instead of eight and a half under steam.
+We have averaged over 200 miles a day under steam alone, ever since we
+left Penang, and have burnt only four tons of coal for every fifty
+miles.
+
+_Monday, April 16th_.--At 1.30 a.m. I heard the signal gun fired, and
+shortly afterwards a great splash of boats and oars, and a vast
+chattering and shouting of tongues announced the arrival of a P. and
+O. steamer. She dropped her anchor just outside us, so we had the
+benefit of the noise all night. I got up at daylight and found the
+pilot just coming off. He took us to a buoy, a little closer in, and
+soon the business of coaling and watering commenced.
+
+[Illustration: Soumali Indian, Aden.]
+
+We reached the shore about 7.30, and, landing at the pier, had our
+first near view of the natives, who are most curious-looking
+creatures. They have very black complexions, and long woolly hair,
+setting out like a mop all round, and generally dyed bright red, or
+yellow by the application of lime. Mr. Cowajee had sent his own
+private carriage to meet us. It was a comfortable open barouche, with
+a pair of nice horses, and two servants in Eastern liveries, green
+vests and full trousers, and red and orange turbans. We went first to
+his store, which seemed to be an emporium for every conceivable
+article. There was carved sandal-wood, and embroidered shawls from
+China, Surat, and Gujerat, work from India, English medicines, French
+lamps, Swiss clocks, German toys, Russian caviare, Greek lace,
+Havannah cigars, American hides and canned fruits, besides many other
+things. The feathers did not look very tempting; there was a great
+deal of feather and very little stem about most of them, and only a
+few were white, the majority being a pretty sort of brown and drab.
+But this general store is only a very small part of their business,
+for about 60,000 tons of coal pass through their hands every year.
+
+We went on to the Hôtel de l'Europe, which was by no means in
+first-rate order, but allowances must be made for a new house. A
+delightful breeze was blowing in through the open windows, and
+although the thermometer registered 85° in the dining-room, it did not
+seem at all hot. The view over the bay is very pretty, and the scene
+on shore thoroughly Arabian, with the donkeys and camels patiently
+carrying their heavy loads, guided by the true Bedaween of the desert,
+and people of all tinges of complexion, from jet black to pale copper
+colour. A pair of tame ostriches, at least seven feet high, were
+strolling about the roadway, and a gazelle, some monkeys, parrots, and
+birds lived happily together beneath a broad verandah. After a little
+while we went for a drive to see the camp and town of Aden, which is
+four or five miles from the Point where everybody lands. On the way we
+met trains of heavily laden camels bringing in wood, water, grain, and
+fodder, for garrison consumption, and coffee and spices for
+exportation. After driving for about four miles we reached a gallery
+pierced through the rock, which admits you into the precincts of the
+fort. The entrance is very narrow, the sides precipitous, and the
+place apparently impregnable. We went all through the town, or rather
+towns, past the Arab village, the Sepoy barracks, and the European
+barracks, to the water tanks, stupendous works carved out of the solid
+rock, but until lately comparatively neglected, the residents
+depending entirely on distillation for their supply of water. There is
+a pretty little garden at the foot of the lowest tank, but the heat
+was intense in the bottom of the deep valley amongst the rocks, where
+every sun-ray seemed to be collected and reflected from the white
+glaring limestone, and every breath of air to be excluded. We saw a
+little more of the town and the market crowded with camels, the shops
+full of lion, leopard, and hyæna skins. We went to the officers'
+mess-house, visited the Protestant and Roman Catholic churches and
+the Mohammedan mosque, and then passing through two long tunnels,
+bored and blasted in the solid rock, we looked over the
+fortifications. Finally, we returned to the Point again by way of the
+Isthmus, and went to Government House, which gets a fresh breeze from
+every quarter. They say that to-day is hotter than usual, but it is
+never really very oppressive here unless there is an exceptionally hot
+wind blowing from the desert, but even that is partially cooled before
+it arrives. To us it appears delightful after our sultry voyage and
+the heat at Penang and Singapore.
+
+We are all agreeably disappointed with Aden, and find that it is by no
+means the oven we expected; it is prettier too than I thought, the
+mountains and rocks are so peaked and pointed, and although the
+general effect is one of barrenness, still, if you look closely, every
+crack and crevice is full of something green. The soil, being of
+volcanic origin, is readily fertilised by moisture, and at once
+produces some kind of vegetation. This adds of course greatly to the
+effect of colour, which in the rocks themselves is extremely
+beautiful, especially at sunrise and sunset. The sea, too, is
+delightfully blue on one side of the peninsula, and pale green on the
+other, according to the wind, and the white surf curls and breaks on
+the sandy shore beyond the crisp waves.
+
+We went back to the hotel a little before one, and found many friends
+had called during our absence. After superintending the children's
+dinner, I went with Tom to luncheon at Government House. It was very
+pleasant; General and Mrs. Schneider were more than kind, and the
+house felt deliciously cool and airy.
+
+We are told that thirty miles inland the country is sometimes very
+beautiful. There are exquisitely green valleys, with a stream running
+through them, amongst peaks, and rocky mountains, which one rarely
+sees in the desert. Here the natives cultivate their crops of
+corn--such corn as it is too, reaching six feet above a man's head!
+All sorts of useful vegetables grow abundantly, besides roses, fruits,
+and fragrant flowers, large supplies of which are brought daily into
+Aden. About ten miles from the town there are acres of the most
+fertile garden ground, which is cultivated to supply the garrison with
+vegetables. Sometimes a party of seventy or eighty men, and ten or
+twenty Arab guides, goes out for three weeks or a month at a time
+surveying. The natives are much more friendly than they used to be a
+few years ago, when people were afraid even to ride outside the town.
+Now pleasant excursions lasting a few days may be made, especially as
+there is very fair shooting to be got. After luncheon I was shown some
+lovely feathers. The contrast between these and the steamer-feathers
+is ludicrous; the price, too, is proportionately cheaper, for the
+feathers are infinitely better. Long, white, full, and curly feathers
+can be bought for much less than you give for them in England. We drove
+down to the town, finished our business transactions, and then went in
+the 'Vestal's' steam launch on board the 'Gamma,' one of the new
+Chinese gunboats on her way out to China.
+
+After afternoon tea we all adjourned to the 'Sunbeam,' where we found
+many other friends already arrived or arriving. We had only just time
+to look round before the sun set, and the short twilight was succeeded
+by the swift tropical darkness. All too soon good-bye had to be said;
+the anchor was raised, and we were actually drifting slowly along
+under our head canvas before our friends took their departure. It was
+a lovely evening, with a light fair breeze, and although there
+appeared hardly any wind, it was wonderful how swiftly we crept out of
+the harbour, and, as sail after sail was spread, how rapidly we glided
+past the land.
+
+Our visit to Aden has been short but very agreeable; it is not by any
+means such a dreadful place as we had always fancied. Most of the
+people we have seen to-day seem rather to like it; there is good
+boating, excellent sea fishing, moderate shooting, and many rides and
+excursions. A vehicle of some sort is an absolute necessity, however,
+if you want to see anything of your friends, for the three divisions
+of the settlement are at least four miles apart, and the heat is far
+too great for driving or riding in the middle of the day, except on
+business. I cannot say, however, that we ourselves found it
+intolerably hot to-day.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+TO SUEZ.
+
+                               _Round the decay_
+    _Of that colossal wreck; boundless and bare_
+    _The lone and level sands stretch far away._
+
+_Tuesday, April 17th_.--The breeze still continued and freshened, and
+we sailed along pleasantly before it, finding it a great relief to be
+rid of the thud and beat of the engine. There is no vibration, but the
+noise is unpleasant. About eleven o'clock we passed the island of
+Perim, a most desolate-looking place. I do not wonder that officers so
+much dislike being quartered there. It is an important position
+though, and is shortly to be strengthened, when water-tanks will be
+built, and attempts made to cultivate the soil. At present there does
+not appear to be a blade of vegetation, and on the side we passed,
+between the island and the coast of Arabia, nothing is to be seen but
+the little white lighthouse and the path leading up to it. On the
+southern side there is a very fair harbour and a moderate town. On the
+shore all round the island turtles are caught at the season when they
+land to deposit their eggs. To pass the island of Perim we sailed
+through the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, or 'Gate of Tears,' thus called
+on account of the numerous wrecks which took place there in former
+years. Once through the straits, we were fairly in the Red Sea. The
+colour of the Red Sea is certainly the bluest of ultramarines. In the
+afternoon the town of Mocha Yamen, celebrated alike for its breed of
+Arab horses and its coffee, was visible from the masthead. It is a
+large white town, full of cupolas and minarets, surrounded with green
+as far as irrigation extends, and looking like a pearl set in emeralds
+on the margin of the deep blue sea against a background of red and
+yellow sand-mountains. Later in the afternoon we passed Great and
+Little Hamish, where the P. and O. boat, 'Alma,' was wrecked some
+fifteen years ago, and during the night sailed by Jebel Zibayar and
+Tukar.
+
+[Illustration: Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb.]
+
+_Wednesday, April 18th_.--In the morning, at daylight, we were off
+Jebel Teir, Mussawa Island, Annesley Bay lying 60 miles to the west.
+Our position was about 60 miles to the south-west of Mussawa Zoulia,
+where the expedition under Lord Napier of Magdala landed in 1867. At
+noon we had sailed 221 miles, a most unexpected run in the Red Sea. In
+the afternoon it fell calm, but the wind freshened again, and we went
+on sailing until after midnight.
+
+_Thursday, April 19th_.--We commenced steaming at 1 a.m., stopped,
+however, at 5 a.m., and sailed all day. Yesterday we were surrounded
+by some beautiful blue birds, who hovered about us and settled at
+intervals on the masts and yards. During the night two were caught
+napping by the men, and in the course of to-day two more, hotly
+pursued by a hawk, took refuge on board and were also captured. One
+was given to me. It appears to be a very beautiful kind of jay, with
+feathers of the most brilliant shades of blue. The men have killed
+their birds for the sake of the skins, but I mean to try and keep mine
+alive. At Colombo several birds and two curiously starred tortoises
+were added to our collection; and we took on board at Aden a gazelle,
+a black cockatoo, and a green monkey.
+
+We passed Souakim to-day, the port of Nubia. It is about 275 miles, or
+25 days' camel-journey, from thence to Berber on the Nile. The road
+passes through Korib, and among fine red granite and black basalt
+mountains, 4,000 feet high. We left one of the firemen, Tom Dollar,
+behind at Aden by mistake, and only found out yesterday that we had
+done so. It appears that he has a brother living there, whom he was
+most anxious to go and see directly the anchor was let go, in the
+morning. Unfortunately, he did not speak to us on the subject. He had
+never been in anything but a regular steamer before, and could not
+believe it possible that the 'Sunbeam' could spread her wings and be
+off without any preliminary 'fire-worshipping,' I am very sorry for
+the poor man, as he has left all his clothes and the wages he had
+earned on board the P. and O. steamer behind him. We must send them
+back from Suez, and telegraph to some one to look out for him. The
+heat is intense, and we all sleep on deck at night; the sunrises and
+sunsets are magnificent.
+
+_Friday, April 20th_.--A little hotter still; there is no wind at all,
+and we are obliged to steam. In the morning we passed to the southward
+of Jeddo, the port of Mecca. Unfortunately it was so hazy that we
+could not distinguish anything whatever of the town or country, only a
+line of mountains rearing their heads above the clouds. We had hoped
+to be at Suez early on Sunday, but now I fear we shall not arrive
+until Monday.
+
+_Saturday, April 21st_.--Hotter and still hotter every day, says the
+thermometer, and so we say also. Everybody told us these would be our
+two hottest days, and certainly the prediction has been verified. We
+did not see a single ship all day, but in the afternoon passed Zambo,
+the port of Medina. A little before midnight we made the light on the
+Dædalus shoal on the starboard bow.
+
+This being Muriel's fifth birthday, Mabelle and the doctor and the men
+have been arranging a surprise for her all day, and none of us were
+allowed to go on the port side of the deck, but after dinner we were
+taken to a hastily fitted-up theatre, very prettily decorated with
+flags and Japanese lanterns. On a throne covered with the Union Jack,
+Muriel was seated, the two pugs being on footstools on either side of
+her to represent lions _couchant_. Some of the men had blackened their
+faces, and gave us a really very excellent Christy Minstrel
+entertainment, in which undreamed-of talent came to light. It is very
+odd and interesting how one is perpetually finding out something new
+about the men. Some of the crew we thought the most unpromising when
+we started, have turned out among our best men, always ready and
+willing for everything, while others, who at first appeared the best,
+have not proved so good. Many we knew well beforehand. On the whole,
+however, we have very little cause to complain of our crew; all pull
+well together when they are kept up to their work and have plenty to
+do.
+
+_Sunday, April 22nd_.--Clouds veiled the sunrise this morning, which
+was a welcome relief; still it was too hot for service in the saloon,
+and it was therefore held on deck. A light breeze sprang up ahead
+during its performance, which cooled and refreshed us immensely. About
+twelve o'clock we passed another pair of 'Brothers,' a couple of
+odd-looking rocks or islands, like tables, rising straight out of the
+sea; there is a beacon on the northernmost one. While we were at
+lunch, the breeze freshened so much that we were all glad to add some
+wraps to our light and airy costumes. A little later, a summer gale
+was blowing ahead, making some of us feel very uncomfortable and long
+for the halcyon days of the past, even with the accompaniment of the
+inevitable heat. Such is mankind, and womankind too for that matter,
+'never blessed but always to be blessed.' The gale freshened, the
+screw was raised, the yacht pitched and rolled, and we were obliged to
+put her off her course and under sail before night fell. The spray
+came over the decks, and there was a strong wind dead ahead. We all
+felt cold and miserable, though the thermometer still registered 75°.
+The poor monkeys and parrots looked most wretched and unhappy, and had
+to be packed away as speedily as possible. Nine monkeys in an empty
+wine case seemed very happy and cuddled together for warmth, but the
+two larger and more aristocratic members of the party required a box
+to themselves. The gazelle had a little tent pitched for him specially
+in a sheltered corner, and the birds were all stowed away and battened
+over in the smoking fiddle. Dinner was rather a lame pretence, and it
+was not long before we all retired, and certainly no one wished to
+take his or her mattress on deck to-night. It is the first night I
+have slept in a bed on board the yacht for many weeks, and a very
+disturbed night it was, for the waves ran high, and we have lately
+been sailing so steadily over smooth seas, that we did not know what
+to make of this.
+
+_Monday, April 23rd_.--The gale blew as hard as ever, and quite as
+dead ahead. About noon we made the island of Shaduan, or isle of
+Seals, so named by the ancients, when the sea and gulf abounded with
+seals. There are still a few occasionally to be seen to the northward
+by the fishermen, and their skins are brought to Suez for sale. We are
+making tacks backwards and forwards across the narrow sea, an exciting
+amusement for a yachtsman, as it requires constant attention. The
+sailing directions say that this sea is ill surveyed, except in the
+direct channel. There are many coral reefs and sunken rocks, and on
+whichever side you may happen to be wrecked, the natives are ready to
+rob, ill-treat, and kill you, or sell you as slaves in the interior.
+It was on two projecting coral reefs from the island of Shaduan, that
+the 'Carnatic' was wrecked in 1869. She ran ashore at four o'clock in
+the morning of the 13th of September, soon after having made the light
+on Rhas Garril. We were at Suez in October of the same year, and
+everybody was then full of the sad particulars of the wreck, the
+soldiers being especially useful in bringing in the passengers'
+luggage, which had been recovered from the Arabs. One of our firemen,
+Abraham, was on board the 'Carnatic' at the time of the disaster, and
+lost all his worldly goods (not many, I should think, judging by what
+he has brought on board here).
+
+The sea was very rough and disagreeable all day. To us the temperature
+appears quite cool, indeed cold, though the thermometer still remains
+at 75°. Our friends at Aden, who prophesied that I should want my
+sealskin jacket before leaving the Gulf of Suez, were not so far wrong
+in their prognostications as I imagined at the time.
+
+_Tuesday, April 24th_.--We are still beating to windward against a
+head gale, and by noon had made sixty-five miles to the good, right in
+the wind's eye--not a bad performance, considering that the gale was
+blowing with a force of nine or ten. It has the merit of novelty too,
+for I suppose that for years no sailing ships have been seen in the
+Gulf of Suez. The winds blow so steadily for months together, that for
+six months in the year you cannot get into the Red Sea, and for the
+other six months you cannot get out of it.
+
+We passed the island of Rhas Garril, and soon afterwards a steamer
+went by, altering her course a good deal to inspect us. She evidently
+thought we were a broken-down steamer, and intended to come to our
+rescue. All yesterday and to-day we have been making flannel coats for
+the monkey, and covers for birdcages, and improvising shelters and
+snug corners for our pets. At night especially the wind is quite
+crisp. If this gale continues, it will be Thursday or Friday before we
+reach Suez; but it may possibly change to-night, and it looks now as
+if it were breaking.
+
+[Illustration: Beating up the Red Sea.]
+
+_Wednesday, April 25th_.--At last the gale _has_ broken. There was not
+much wind when I went on deck at 4 a.m., and by seven o'clock it was
+so nearly calm, that the funnel could be raised and fires lighted, and
+we were soon steaming straight for our destination. We could not see
+Mount Sinai on account of the mist, but made out the place where the
+Israelites are said to have crossed the Red Sea, and by four o'clock
+the town of Suez lay right ahead. The shores are very barren, not a
+blade of grass nor a scrap of vegetation being visible. Nothing is to
+be seen save mountain peaks, rocks, stones, and sand. But even this
+barren scene has a special beauty of its own, particularly at sunrise
+and sunset. The shapes of mountain and rock are alike striking, the
+sharp shadows are lovely, and the contrast of reds, yellows, and
+browns, with the bright blue sea and crisp white waves, is very
+beautiful. Even when the sun has set, and the rich tints have faded
+away, the full moon adds another charm to the landscape.
+
+This afternoon, as we were steaming up towards Suez, I had a chat with
+Mahomet, one of our Indian firemen, who was fringing a piece of muslin
+for a turban. I asked him if it was English. 'No, Missy; no
+English--Switzerland; English no good; all gum and sticky stuff; make
+fingers dirty; all wash out; leave nothing.' In the South Sea and
+Sandwich Islands, and in the Malay Peninsula, the natives make the
+same complaints as to the Manchester cottons. At Hongkong some of the
+large shops had fifty expensive English ships' compasses on hand; they
+were all quite unsaleable owing to the liquid having gone bad, in
+consequence of its not having been properly prepared. Some American
+compasses of the same quality were in good order and not in the least
+affected by the climate. It will be a bad day when the confidence in
+England's honesty as a nation throughout the world, and consequently
+her well-earned supremacy in commerce, have passed away. The burden,
+unfortunately, will not fall on the heads of the offenders alone, but,
+as usual, the innocent will suffer with and for the guilty.
+
+After four o'clock we came near two steamers lying at anchor, and were
+shortly afterwards boarded by the captain of the port, the health
+officer, and sundry other functionaries. After a short delay we
+dropped anchor, and just as the sun was setting in 'purple and gold'
+behind the mountains of Arabia, we went ashore in the steam launch. We
+landed at the Canal Company's Office, in front of which there is a
+bust of Lieutenant Waghorn, the inaugurator of the overland route.
+
+At the office, the 'Sunbeam' was entered on the Company's books, and
+arrangements were made with the chief pilot for to-morrow, while the
+children amused themselves by riding a pony up and down, and jumping
+over the little brooks, and I strolled about admiring the enormous
+growth of the vegetation since we were here last in 1869. We next
+steamed five miles further on to the town of Suez, and landed opposite
+the big hotel, which is more uncomfortable than ever. The rooms are
+dirty, and the cooking execrable.
+
+There is nothing to see at Suez, but still we went for a ramble to see
+that nothing. We cleared our boxes and our letters, and then went on
+ankle deep in sand to the one European house, the railway station, the
+Arab quarter and the bazaars, where it is occasionally possible to
+pick up rather interesting little curiosities brought by the pilgrims
+from Mecca and Medina.
+
+_Thursday, April 26th_.--Such a sunrise as this morning's you could
+only see in Arabia or Egypt. There is a peculiarity about desert
+colouring at sunrise and sunset that can never be seen anywhere else.
+We had sundry visitors during the early morning, and before ten
+o'clock we were in the Canal and steaming on at regulation speed. As
+the sun rose the heat became intense, 96° in the shade under double
+awnings. So far from there being a cool breeze to temper it, a hot
+wind blew from the desert, like the blast from a furnace. I stood on
+the bridge as long as I could bear the heat, to look at the strange
+desert view, which could be seen to great advantage in going through
+at the top of high water. Sand, sand everywhere; here a train of
+camels, there a few Arab tents, now a whole party shifting their place
+of abode; a group of women washing, or a drove of buffaloes in a small
+tributary stream. After going about eight miles we stopped at a _gare_
+(as the stopping-places are called) to allow three vessels to pass.
+One was a fine steamer belonging to the Ducal Line; the others were a
+Dutch and a German boat (one, the Friesland, has been since wrecked
+off Cape Finisterre, in December 1877). The cleanliness and general
+smartness of the former presented a great contrast to her companions,
+on which the passengers looked very hot and uncomfortable. The centre
+part of each vessel was crowded with a large number of Dutch or German
+boys, going out as soldiers to Acheen, who certainly did not appear to
+be enjoying their voyage.
+
+We passed Chaloux and reached Ismailia just at nine o'clock, not
+without considerable effort on the part of the pilot. A steam launch
+came off from the shore, and we (children and all) landed at once;
+and, after a moonlight donkey ride, dined at the excellent Hôtel de
+Paris, kept by an old Frenchman. _Table-d'hôte_ was over, but they
+gave us a capital little dinner by ourselves. The children and I, and
+some of the gentlemen, start to-morrow, overland _viâ_ Cairo, to join
+the yacht at Alexandria, in order that they may see the Pyramids. It
+was a glorious night as we rowed off to the yacht under the bright
+beams of the full moon, and the air, too, was quite fresh and cool--a
+most refreshing change from the noontide heat.
+
+The traffic on the Canal has increased during the last few years, and
+especially during the last few months; on an average four or five
+ships passed through every day. To-day they took 6,000_l_. at the Suez
+Office alone. They have an excellent plan of the Canal there, and
+little models of ships, which are arranged according to the telegrams
+constantly received, so that the chief officers at each end of the
+Canal know exactly where every ship is. Instant information is of
+course sent of any stoppage or any accident, but these occur
+comparatively seldom. Some time ago M. Lesseps bought a small canal
+partially stopped up leading from the Nile at Cairo to Ismailia. It
+has been widened and deepened, and was opened a few weeks ago with
+great ceremony and grand doings. Now any vessel not drawing more than
+fourteen feet can go direct from Suez or Port Said to Cairo. If we had
+had time, we might have done it in the yacht, and lain at anchor
+almost under the shadow of the Pyramids of Cheops. The special object
+of the new canal is to make Cairo and Ismailia Egyptian ports as well
+as Alexandria, thereby saving much land carriage and labour of
+shifting. Already several ships laden with grain, from Upper Egypt,
+have availed themselves of this new means of communication.
+
+_Friday, April 27th_.--Another glorious sunrise. The pilot was on
+board at 5 a.m., and the Dhebash with fish, strawberries, and fresh
+vegetables. This is a beautiful climate, though there is scarcely any
+rain; only one very slight shower has occurred during the last three
+years at Suez, but the soil of the desert after the Nile overflow
+brings forth tenfold.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' was to start at eight o'clock, as soon as a large vessel
+had passed up from Port Said. There are only certain places in the
+Canal where vessels can pass one another, so one ship is always
+obliged to wait for another. We landed at half-past seven. The sun was
+already blazing with a burning fury, and we found it very hot riding
+up to the hotel on donkeys. We had an excellent breakfast at the same
+comfortable hotel, paid a very moderate bill, and left by the eleven
+o'clock train for Cairo. We stopped at Zag-à-zig for an hour for
+luncheon in a nice cool dark room, and started again about three
+o'clock. The change in the face of the country since we were here
+eight years ago is something extraordinary. A vast desert of sand has
+been transformed into one large oasis of undulating fields of waving
+corn, where there used to be nothing but whirlwinds of sand. All this
+has been effected by irrigation. The wealth of Egypt ought greatly to
+increase. How the people managed to live before is a mystery. Now
+every field is full of labourers reaping and stacking the corn, women
+gleaning, and in some places the patient, ugly black buffaloes
+ploughing the stubble for fresh crops.
+
+At half-past six we reached Cairo, and were conveyed in a large
+_char-à-bancs_ to what was formerly Shepherd's Hotel, now partly
+rebuilt and much altered for the better. Even in that short drive we
+could see that the face of the capital of Egypt had altered as much
+as the country, though I am not sure that it is so greatly improved.
+After a refreshing dip in cool marble baths and a change of garments,
+we went down to the large _table-d'hôte_. Then we sat in the verandah
+looking on the street until we became tired of doing nothing, after
+which we started for a stroll in the Ezkebieh gardens close by. They
+are beautifully laid out for evening promenade; but although the
+flowers are lovely, and the turf, thanks to constant waterings, is
+deliciously green, all the large trees have been cut down. There is no
+seclusion, no shade, which seems a pity in a country where the
+greatest desire of life is shelter from the noonday heat. To-night
+both Arab and French bands were playing within the enclosure, and it
+was pleasant enough listening to Offenbach's music under the beams of
+the full moonlight. Few people appeared to appreciate it, however, for
+the gardens were nearly empty; but then the season is over, and every
+one has fled before the coming heat.
+
+_Saturday, April 28th_.--We had settled to start at six o'clock this
+morning to visit the Pyramids, an excursion which had been for some
+little time eagerly looked forward to and talked about by the younger
+members of our party. The morning was cold and grey, a strong
+northerly wind was blowing, and the change from the weather which had
+prevailed but a few hours previously was altogether most striking and
+unexpected. We drove rapidly through the streets and the outskirts of
+the town, where old houses are being pulled down and new ones rapidly
+built up, and where a general air of new bricks and old rubbish
+pervades the scene. Then we crossed the Nile by a handsome iron
+bridge, and saw the Palace of Gezireh, where the Prince of Wales and
+his suite were lodged. We passed the railway extension works, and, to
+the great delight of the children, saw two elephants busily employed,
+one of which was being made to lie down to enable his mahout to
+dismount. Soon the little ones gave a shout of 'The Pyramids!' and
+there before us stood those grand monuments of a nameless founder,
+which for centuries have stood out in the sands of the desert, while
+the burning African sun and the glorious African moon have risen and
+set on their heavenward-pointing summits for countless days and
+nights. Even the earth has changed her position so much since they
+were erected that the pole star no longer sheds its light in a direct
+line through the central passages, as it did when first they were
+designed.
+
+We drove along under avenues of now leafless trees to the foot of the
+hill on which the Pyramids are situated. Here everybody was turned out
+to walk except Muriel and me, and a tremendous tug the horses had to
+drag even us two up to the real foot of the Pyramids. On arriving we
+were at once surrounded by a crowd of Arabs. They are certainly a
+fine-looking lot of men, rather clamorous for backshish, and anxious
+to sell their curiosities, real or imitation. They were, however,
+good-natured, civil, and obliging, and amused me much during the hour
+I spent alone with them while the rest of the party were ascending and
+descending the Pyramids. Many could speak several languages quite
+fluently, and almost all of them took a good deal of interest in the
+war, and the prospects of success on either side; while many had a
+fair knowledge of the geography of Europe. While all the rest were on
+the top of the one large Pyramid, a man ran down from the summit and
+up to the top of the next smaller one (which is, however, more
+difficult to ascend) in 'eight minutes for a franc' This feat was
+repeated several times by different men, but it really occupied nearer
+ten minutes.
+
+We ate some bread and wine, bought a few curiosities, and then drove
+back to the city, feeling very cold and shivery and regretting the
+wraps we had left behind. We reached the hotel just in time for twelve
+o'clock _table-d'hôte_ breakfast, and, after an acceptable rest,
+sallied forth again, this time on donkeys, to see the bazaars and the
+sunset from the citadel. We went across squares and gardens and
+through wide streets, for, alas! Cairo is being rapidly Haussmannised.
+For the capitalist or resident, Cairo may be improved, but for the
+traveller, the artist, the lover of the picturesque, the quaint, and
+the beautiful, the place is ruined. Cairo as a beautiful and ancient
+oriental city has ceased to exist, and is being rapidly transformed
+into a bad imitation of modern Paris, only with bluer skies, a more
+brilliant sun, and a more serene climate than it is possible to find
+in Europe. Only a few narrow streets and old houses are still left,
+with carved wooden lattices, where you can yet dream that the 'Arabian
+Nights' are true.
+
+We went to the gold and silver bazaar, and bought some quaint silver
+jewellery from Assouan, Soudan, and Abyssinia; then through the
+Turkish bazaar, the saddlery bazaars, past mosques and old houses,
+till at length we emerged into new squares and new streets, before
+climbing the hill to the citadel, the Viceroy's palace, and the
+splendid Mosque of Mehemet Ali, built of Egyptian alabaster. The view
+from the terrace is superb, over city, desert, river, palm-trees, and
+Pyramids. The sunset this evening was a disappointment; yellow, cold,
+and watery, a strong north wind bringing up all the sand from the
+desert. We returned to the hotel for dinner, and were all glad to go
+early to bed.
+
+_Sunday, April 29th_.--The children and I went to the English church,
+a semi-Gothic building, without a single window which could open.
+Though the church was nearly empty, the air felt like that of an
+exhausted receiver, and made one gasp. In the cool of the afternoon we
+drove through Roulai, where the museum stands, in a beautiful garden
+close by the riverside, amid flowers in full bloom.
+
+After an early meal (hardly to be called dinner) we went to the
+station, just as all the people were going for a drive to Shoubrah in
+the smartest carriages and the prettiest toilets.
+
+Our journey to Alexandria in the evening was cool and pleasant. A
+huge break met us, and we drove to Abbat's Hotel--considerably
+improved since our last visit in 1869.
+
+_Monday, April 30th_.--Got up at 5 a.m. After a deliciously soft but
+very muddy bath, I went for a donkey ride before breakfast with
+Mabelle. Tom arrived from the yacht in time for twelve o'clock
+breakfast, and announced the voyage from Port Said to have been rough
+and unpleasant.
+
+We called on the Consul, the Vice-Consul, and our old friend, Consul
+Burton of Trieste, Haj Abdullah. He has just returned from a journey
+through the ancient land of Midian, undertaken at the special request
+of the Viceroy. He describes the expedition as having been most
+successful; the climate is almost perfect from September to May; the
+land is well watered by little streams flowing through fertile
+valleys, and full of fragrant flowers and luscious fruits. The corn
+reaches above the camel-men's heads, which means a height of fourteen
+or fifteen feet. But the mineral wealth of the country is its most
+extraordinary feature. He found traces of gold in the sand of the
+river-beds, in spots pointed out to him by his fellow-pilgrims on the
+way to Mecca twenty years ago, to say nothing of tin, iron, &c.
+Perhaps the most interesting part of his discovery was the remains of
+eight ruined cities with traces in the dry river-beds of
+stone-crushing and gold-seeking apparatus, which must have been used
+centuries ago. He is writing a book on the subject, which you may
+perhaps see before you read this.
+
+The Consul kindly sent a janissary with us to show us the Sultan's
+palace. It is large and bare of furniture; and the general style of
+decoration is like that of the palaces at Cherniga and Dolma Batscher.
+Thence we went to see Pompey's Pillar and Cleopatra's Needle, the
+dahabeas ready to go up the Nile, &c.; and returned to the hotel in
+time for dinner and a chat afterwards in the cool courtyard.
+
+_Tuesday, May 1st_.--I wrote from 3 a.m. to 6.30 a.m., in order to
+send letters off by the French mail, and at seven Mabelle and I
+sallied forth on donkeys to visit the market. There was not much to
+see, however, everything being so crowded and jammed up, meat, fish,
+vegetables, and fruit, all close together. The crowd was amusing, as
+all the European householders had negroes or Arabs following them,
+laden with their purchases. We found some lovely flowers in a street
+near the market, and then we went on to the big gold and silver
+bazaar, and to the Turkish and Syrian bazaars, where we saw all the
+specialities of Constantinople, and Broussa, Damascus, and Jerusalem
+laid out before us. After breakfast, the antics of two enormous apes,
+who came round on a donkey, accompanied by a showman and a boy, amused
+the children much. They were hideously ugly, but the cleverest monkeys
+I ever saw. They went through a regular little play, quarrelled with
+one another; the man and the boy rode the ape, and made him kick; at
+last the ape was hurt, and lay fainting in the man's arms, limp and
+languid, just able to sip a little water; then he died, and dropped
+down stiff, with his eyes shut. His tail was pulled, his lips and
+eyelids were forced open, but he never winked an eyelid or moved a
+hair of his whiskers. He was thrown about from side to side, remaining
+perfectly motionless till, at a sign from his master, he jumped up as
+well as ever, shouldered his gun, and mounted his ass to take his
+departure. He was promptly ordered to dismount and ask for backshish,
+which he did, cap in hand. Some of the crowd round about not
+contributing to his master's satisfaction, the ape took a nasty
+venomous-looking little snake out of a bag which he carried over his
+shoulder, and threw it among the bystanders, to their great
+consternation.
+
+At two o'clock we went to lunch with the Consul, and what a pleasant
+lunch it was, prepared by a French cook, and eaten in a cool, airy,
+and shady room free from flies, which were kept out by fine wire
+gauze placed in front of each well-shaded door and window! The table
+was one mass of the roses for which Alexandria is so famous. Everybody
+had wandered about the world more or less, everybody was in good
+spirits, and we laughed and chatted and talked sense or nonsense as
+the fancy took us, till it was time to go on board the yacht _en
+masse_, and receive some visitors at tea. A few had arrived before us,
+but the children and some others of the party were on board and had
+been doing the honours and showing them round. About 5.30 p.m. our
+last guests departed, and all was ready for a start; but, alas! we had
+to wait for an absent steward, who had gone in search of the always
+late linen, that plague of the poor yachtsman's life when he has a
+large party on board. The sun was sinking fast, the wind was blowing
+fresh and fair, and if we did not start soon it would be impossible to
+do so at all, and a night's work of more than 120 miles would be lost.
+At last the welcome boat was seen coming from the shore; we unmoored,
+and went ahead for about an hour. But the light gradually faded away;
+it became impossible to distinguish the beacon; the sand banks are
+numerous, and there are no lights. It was only endangering the ship
+and the lives of all on board to proceed; so the order was reluctantly
+given, 'Hard a-port.' Round she went in her own length almost, and
+very soon we let go the anchor just outside our old moorings, and
+spent the night, after all, in the harbour of Alexandria.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+'HOME.'
+
+    _She comes, majestic with her swelling sails,_
+    _The gallant bark along her watery way,_
+    _Homeward she drives before the favouring gales._
+    _Now flitting at their length the streamers fly,_
+    _And now they ripple with the ruffling breeze._
+
+
+_Wednesday, May 2nd_.--Steam was up at five o'clock, the wind being
+still fair but light. Soon it dropped to a calm, and then went round
+and blew with great force exactly in the opposite direction, dead
+ahead. The fires had to be put out, for it was so rough we could do no
+good steaming against the gale. The screw kept racing round and
+shaking the vessel terribly. Of course I was very ill; but the maids
+did not mind, and the children rather enjoyed the tumbling about and
+the water on deck. We continued scudding along through the water, but
+not making much progress on our course.
+
+[Illustration: HOMEWARD BOUND.]
+
+_Thursday, May 3rd_.--The wind kept on increasing, and at last blew
+quite a gale. We have gone a long way out of our course to the
+northward, ready for a favourable change, but we can scarcely make any
+way to the westward.
+
+_Friday, May 4th_.--A repetition of yesterday--,
+
+    Beating, beating all the day,
+    But never a bit ahead.
+
+_Saturday, May 5th_.--A lull at last, and we are able to have the
+fires lighted and to steam on our course. We made the Island of
+Scarpanto in the morning. All the afternoon and evening we have been
+steaming along ten miles to the southward of Crete. Its outline was
+very beautiful, surmounted by the snow-capped mountains. I was up on
+deck just in time to behold the most lovely sunset, with exquisite
+rosy, purple, and crimson tints on sea and sky.
+
+I have not quite got over my attack in Cairo yet, and for the last
+three days have been completely laid up with a various mixture of land
+illness and sea sickness. We stopped steaming late in the day, but
+fires were lighted again in the middle of the night, as the wind was
+still ahead. There was a discussion whether or not to go round the
+north side of the Island of Kandia, so as to have a glimpse of the
+British Fleet at anchor in Suda Bay, if they have already arrived
+there.
+
+_Sunday, May 6th, and Monday, May 7th_.--Early in the morning the
+snowy mountains of Crete were still in sight. Service was held as
+usual at eleven, but it was too rough in the afternoon for it to be
+repeated.
+
+Sail and steam, wind and calm, alternated with one another all day.
+Tom is anxious to sail every mile he can, and yet not to lose any
+unnecessary time, and finds it exceedingly difficult to combine these
+two objects.
+
+_Tuesday, May 8th_.--A fine morning, with a cold strong head breeze.
+At noon we rejoiced to think that Malta was not more than a few miles
+ahead, or we should assuredly have failed to reach our port before
+nightfall. About three we closed in with the land about Marsa
+Scirocco and Delamara Point, and, after one or two tacks, rounded the
+Point of Ricasole, and leaving Port St. Elmo on our right, we swiftly
+glided into the grand harbour of Valetta. We have been here so often
+that it feels quite like reaching home. We soon found ourselves in our
+old quarters in the Dockyard Creek, and had scarcely moored before one
+of the officers came on board with the usual complimentary offers of
+assistance, whilst directly afterwards came an invitation to a
+farewell ball at the Palace, given to the Duke of Edinburgh. Our old
+boatman, Bubbly Joe, took us ashore to dinner, and we found everything
+looking as bright and cheerful and steep as it always does and always
+will do; not the least bit altered or modernised. The landlord of the
+Hôtel d'Angleterre was delighted to see us again, and so were his
+servants, who came flocking from all parts of the house, nearly
+pulling the children to pieces, and plying our own servants with
+questions in their anxiety to know all about us.
+
+[Illustration: Faldetta, Malta.]
+
+We had to go back on board the yacht to dress, and then return for the
+ball, by which time I was so thoroughly tired, and had so bad a
+headache, that I could not enjoy it much, pleasant as it was. Very
+soon after supper we came away and had a charming row across the
+harbour to our snug quarters on board the 'Sunbeam.' These sudden
+bursts of dissipation on shore are a delightful change after days and
+weeks at sea.
+
+_Wednesday, May 9th_.--I was up soon after sunrise and admired this
+often-abused creek as much as I always do. The stone houses, the
+carved and coloured verandahs of bright flowers, the water lapping the
+very door-steps, the gaily painted boats with their high prows at
+either end, the women in their black dresses and faldettas, and
+black-robed priests, all helped to carry the imagination over the
+Mediterranean and up the Adriatic to lovely Venice. At this hour in
+the morning there were not many English soldiers or sailors to spoil
+the illusion.
+
+Malta is essentially a border-land--African by geographical
+configuration, European politically, and assuredly Asiatic in its
+language, its buildings, and in the manners and customs of the
+natives. We gave everybody on board a holiday, and the chance of a run
+ashore to-day to stretch their legs after their long sea voyage. Tom
+went on board the 'Sultan' to see the Duke of Edinburgh and his
+splendid ship. Whilst at breakfast I received an intimation that the
+Duke of Edinburgh wished to come and examine the yacht. His Royal
+Highness arrived soon afterwards, quite unattended, in a beautiful
+ten-oared barge, and paid us a long, visit, inspecting the yacht
+minutely and looking at all the pets. He took a great interest in our
+voyage and courses, as well as in the numerous curiosities, knowing at
+once from what place each had been procured. The Duke, who had taken
+very nearly the same cruise himself in the 'Galatea' a few years ago,
+inquired very kindly after all his old friends at Tahiti, Hilo,
+Honolulu, and many other places. The Duke is very kind to everybody
+here. He is much liked by his brother officers in the squadron, and
+both H.R.H. and the Duchess seem to have made themselves most popular
+here during the winter. The officers of the 'Sultan,' several of whom
+are old friends of ours, appear to think themselves fortunate indeed
+in having such a commanding officer, whilst on shore his approaching
+departure is universally regretted. Everybody seems full of their
+Royal Highnesses' winter ball, which must have been a most brilliant
+affair.
+
+[Illustration: Armoury in the Governor's Palace, Valetta]
+
+After the Duke's departure we went ashore again, called on various
+friends before luncheon, and went over the palace and through the
+armoury. Then we took a walk down the Strada Reale, the shopping
+street of Valetta, until it was time to go on board to receive some
+friends to tea. The shops are full of coral, lace, gold and silver
+filigree work, and a new sort of lace they make in Gozo, of white
+silk, in beautiful patterns. It has been manufactured only during the
+last few years, and varies much in quality and design. Some forty or
+fifty friends came on board and amused themselves looking at our
+curiosities and photographs until long past the dinner hour. We had to
+hurry on shore to dine, and go afterwards to the Opera Manoel. The new
+Grand Opera House is not to be opened until next October. It had been
+blowing fresh and strong from the westward all day, but to-night, as
+we rowed across the harbour, the breeze had dropped to a flat calm,
+and Tom is most anxious to be off at daybreak.
+
+_Thursday, May 10th_.--I was up before sunrise. A fresh fair wind was
+blowing, and as soon as the children could be got ready we all went
+ashore to the market, which was crowded with people, and full of fish,
+meat, and all spring vegetables and fruit. We were to start at 6.30,
+so there was no time to lose, and laden with lovely bouquets of
+flowers we hastened on board; but it was nine o'clock, after all our
+haste, before we were fairly off, through some mistake about the bill
+of health.
+
+Malta is certainly the most delightful place for yachting winter
+quarters, with its fine healthy harbour, charming society, very cheap
+living, and abundance of everything good. It is in proximity to many
+pleasant places, and most interesting excursions can easily be made to
+Sicily and Italy, or the coast of Africa. To-day we glided along the
+coast, past the strongly fortified little island of Consino, standing
+boldly out in mid-channel between Malta and Gozo. The Mediterranean
+appears to us a highway after the lonely oceans and seas we have been
+sailing over. Within one hour this morning, we saw more ships than in
+the whole of our passage from Valparaiso to Tahiti and Yokohama.
+Towards the evening we could see the island of Pantellaria in the
+distance. We retain a lively remembrance of it from having been
+becalmed just off it in the 'Albatross' for three weary days and
+nights. It was after this and a long series of other vexations and
+delays that Tom and I registered a vow never to go a long voyage again
+in a yacht without at least auxiliary steam power.
+
+_Friday, May 11th_.--At 2.30 a.m. Pantellaria was abeam. At five the
+homeward-bound P. and O. steamer passed us quite close, and at six we
+met the outward-bound P. and O. steamer. At eight we passed Cape Bon
+and sailed across the mouth of the Bay of Tunis, in the centre of
+which is Goletta, the port of Tunis, the site of the ancient city of
+Carthage. Once we anchored close by that place for two or three days,
+and on that occasion I collected enough varieties of marble and mosaic
+from the old palaces to make some beautiful tables when we got home.
+In the afternoon and evening we made the Fratelli and the Sorelle
+Rocks, and still later the little Island of Galita. There were many
+steamers going in all directions, and it struck one very forcibly how
+much this little islet in mid-channel stands in need of a light.
+
+_Sunday, May 13th_.--The wind was dead ahead, and the sea of that
+remarkably confused character for which the Mediterranean is famous.
+It seemed as if the wind of yesterday, the wind of to-morrow, and the
+wind of to-day, had all met and were bent on making a night of it. We
+had service at eleven and four. The chart, now a good old friend, for
+it has been used by us on so many Mediterranean voyages, showed that
+this is the fourth noontide we have spent within a radius of thirty
+miles of this particular spot; within a radius of sixty miles we have
+spent at least three weeks of our lives at various periods. This does
+not of course include voyages in steamers which are not recorded in
+the chart.
+
+_Monday, May 14th_.--About breakfast time to-day we crossed the
+meridian of Greenwich; and this virtually completed our voyage round
+the world, our original point of departure having really been
+Rochester, which is a few minutes to the east of Greenwich. The wind
+changed in the middle of the day, and we passed through a large fleet
+of merchantmen hove-to under shelter of Cape de Gat, where they had
+collected, I suppose, from various ports in Spain and Italy.
+
+_Tuesday, May 15th_.--This was a somewhat sad day, many of our pets
+dying from the effects of the cold wind or from accidents. The
+steward's mocking-bird from Siam, which talked like a Christian and
+followed him about like a dog, died of acute bronchitis early this
+morning; and his monkey, the most weird little creature, with the
+affectionate ways of a human friend, died in the afternoon, of
+inflammation and congestion of the lungs. Two other monkeys and
+several birds also expired in the course of the day.
+
+This evening 'Beau Brummel,' the little pig I brought from Bow Island,
+in the South Pacific, died of a broken spine, as the doctor, who made
+a post-mortem examination in each case, discovered. A spar must have
+dropped upon poor piggy accidentally whilst he was running about on
+deck, though of course no one knew anything about it. I am very sorry;
+for though I must confess he was somewhat greedy and pig-like in his
+habits, he was extremely amusing in his ways. He ran about and went to
+sleep with the pugs, just like one of themselves. Besides, I do not
+think any one else in England could have boasted of a pig given to
+them by a South-Sea-Island chief. Probably 'Beau Brummel' was a lineal
+descendant of the pigs Captain Cook took out in the 'Endeavour.'
+
+The bodies were all placed together in a neat little box and committed
+to the deep at sunset, a few tears being shed over the departed pets,
+especially by the children.
+
+_Tuesday, May 15th_.--Cape de Gat was abeam early this morning. The
+wind fell light, but Tom hoped it would freshen again; otherwise, with
+steam we might easily have got into Gibraltar to-night. As it was,
+fires were not lighted until ten o'clock.
+
+_Wednesday, May 16th_.--At 3 a.m. I was called to see the light on
+Europa Point, and stayed on deck to watch the day dawn and the rising
+of the sun. It was not, however, a very agreeable morning; the
+Levanter was blowing, the signal station was enveloped in mist, the
+tops of the mountains of Africa were scarcely discernible above the
+clouds, and Ceuta and Ape's Hill were invisible. Algeciras and San
+Roque gleamed white on the opposite shore of the bay, while the dear
+old Rock itself looked fresher and cleaner than usual, exhaling a
+most delicious perfume of flowers. As the sun rose, the twitterings of
+the birds in the Alameda sounded most homelike and delightful.
+
+We had dropped our anchor inside the New Mole about 4.30, and before
+six the familiar sounds of English martial music could be heard from
+all the different barracks, as the regiments came marching down the
+hill and along the Alameda to the north front with all their baggage,
+military trains, tents, and ambulances, for a day's camping out. We
+were anxious to get on shore to see about coals, water, and
+provisions, but no health-boat came near us. About seven o'clock we
+started in despair, first to hail a policeman on shore (at a most
+respectful distance), to inquire where we could get _pratique_; then
+we procured it, and sent word back to the 'Sunbeam' that she was out
+of quarantine, and might hoist the yellow flag. We landed, went to the
+market, bought some lovely carnations stuck in a prickly-pear leaf to
+keep them fresh, and then went to the Hôtel Royal--kept by the
+landlord of the old Club House Hotel, where we had so often stayed--to
+order breakfast. Our old friends the servants greeted us at every step
+from the house-door to the coffee-room, and we were taken special care
+of by a waiter who remembered us. After breakfast we went to pay some
+visits. We thought we ought to go and look at the galleries and Signal
+Station, as one or two of our party had never been here before; so we
+started, some on foot and some on donkeys. All the way up the steep
+streets to the Moorish castle, girls met us, selling lovely scarlet
+carnations and yellow roses. The galleries have not changed in the
+least since our last visit, but our soldier-guide told us they were
+daily expecting some big guns to come out, and he gave us a minute
+explanation how they were to be mounted. It was a pleasant ride,
+neither too hot nor too cold. Every crevice and interstice between the
+rocks was full of wild flowers, looking bright and pretty, though
+somewhat insignificant after the gorgeous tropical blossoms our eyes
+have been lately accustomed to. The fog had cleared off, and the view
+was beautiful; ships lay in the bay below us from all parts, including
+a Portuguese gunboat. We saw also one of the two old eagles sitting
+near her nest in the accustomed place; this year she has only one
+young one. We did not see the monkeys, on account of the Levanter, but
+their number has increased to twenty-four, so that there is no
+immediate fear of their becoming extinct.
+
+[Illustration: Tangier.]
+
+At half-past six p.m. we weighed anchor and steamed out of the
+anchorage inside the New Mole. In the straits the wind was fair, so
+the funnel was soon lowered, and the screw feathered, and we were
+racing along under sail alone. Off Tarifa we found quite a gale
+blowing, and the wind continued fresh and fair throughout the night.
+
+_Thursday, May 17th_.--The strong fair wind dropped, and then came
+dead ahead, and off Cadiz we had to get up steam. There was a strong
+wind off the mountains near Cape Sagres, and while Tom was below and
+the men were busy reefing the sails, we nearly ran ashore. Luckily I
+noticed our danger and called Tom, who came up just in time to alter
+the helm, when the yacht went round like a top, though the shore was
+too close to be pleasant. It only shows how easily an accident may
+occur. Both our fishermen-mates could not bear to be idle, and always
+considered looking out an insignificant occupation, and so neglected
+that important duty to assist with the sails.
+
+Off Cape St. Vincent it blew so hard that we were afraid we should be
+obliged to bring up in the bay of Sagres; but we found that it was
+only a land breeze, and that it was much smoother outside than we had
+expected.
+
+_Friday, May 18th_.--Fresh breeze. We met many steamers going down the
+coast with all sail set. After passing Cape Espichel the wind
+increased to a northerly gale, against which it was impossible to
+proceed. We therefore put into Lisbon. The mountains at the mouth of
+the Tagus, the tower and church of Belem, and the noble river itself
+looked even more beautiful in the sunset than my recollection led me
+to expect. We soon landed and had an excellent dinner at the Hotel
+Braganza, where we had stayed before, and where we were at once
+recognised and cordially received by the same landlord and landlady we
+remembered in 1861.
+
+After dinner we went for a walk. One of the things we saw during our
+stroll was the fine statue of Luiz de Camoens, specially interesting
+to us, as we had so recently seen the place where he passed many of
+the weary years of his exile. Rolling Motion Square was as giddy as
+ever. It was a curious fancy to pave it in such a way as to make it
+look like the waves of the sea, perpetually moving; and it must be a
+severe trial to the peripatetic powers of those who have not quite
+recovered their sea legs.
+
+_Saturday, May 19th_.--We were off early; it was a lovely day, and we
+had a pleasant drive to Cintra. On our arrival we mounted donkeys and
+went to Peña, the beautiful palace of the ex-King Ferdinand, situated
+at the top of the mountains. It is an extraordinary-looking place,
+the different parts being built in every imaginable style of
+architecture, with exquisite carving and old tiles that would delight
+the heart of a connoisseur. One of the most prominent objects near the
+Palace of Peña is the statue of Vasco da Gama, nobly placed on a
+pedestal of natural rocks, piled on the summit of a mountain peak, and
+worthy of the adventurous traveller it is erected to commemorate. The
+gardens are full of camellias, roses, bougainvillea, &c. We lunched at
+the excellent hotel, and came to the conclusion that Cintra is the
+place, not only 'to spend a happy day,' but many happy months. It is
+always pleasant to revisit places of which you have agreeable
+reminiscences, and to find your expectations surpassed instead of
+disappointed.
+
+[Illustration: Vasco da Gama]
+
+We had a hot drive back to Lisbon, and then went by tram to Belem,
+where we spent some time in the church and in wandering through its
+exquisite cloisters. The first stone was laid in 1500, and the name
+changed from Bairro de Restello to Belem or Bethlehem by Prince Henry
+of Portugal, the great promoter of maritime discovery in that century.
+It was built specially to commemorate the successful voyage of Vasco
+da Gama, who returned from the discovery of India in 1499.
+
+[Illustration: Belem Cloister Gardens]
+
+Tom met us with the yacht, and, we went on board with the intention of
+proceeding straight to sea. But after passing through the Canal del
+Norte a heavy gale obliged us to anchor in Cascaes Bay for the night,
+not far from a small schooner yacht with three ladies on board. It was
+rather rough, and we were very tired, or I think we should have
+ventured to pay them a visit, even at that late hour. It is absurd to
+stand upon ceremony when travelling; but I scarcely know what the
+strict etiquette would be on such an occasion--whether they, as first
+anchored in the bay, should call on us, or we on them, as probably the
+greater travellers and out longer at sea.
+
+_Sunday, May 20th_.--Weighed at 5 a.m. There was a dense fog off Cape
+del Roca, and the steam-whistle, foghorns, and bell were constantly
+kept going, with lugubrious effect. We had service at eleven and 4.30.
+Passed the Burlings at 1.30. Heavy swell all day.
+
+_Monday, May 21st_.--Rough and disagreeable. Off Viana at noon. Passed
+Oporto and Vigo in the course of the afternoon.
+
+_Tuesday, May 22nd_.--If yesterday was bad, to-day was worse. We hove
+to for some time under the shelter of Cape Finisterre, then went on
+again for a short distance; but at 1.30 a.m. on the 23rd we were
+obliged to put round and wait for daylight.
+
+_Wednesday, 23rd, and Thursday, 24th_.--In the course of the day the
+weather mended, though the sea still continued rough, and our course
+was really in the direction of America rather than England. In the
+evening of the 24th we were able to light fires, and, with the
+assistance of steam, to keep nearly on our proper course.
+
+_Saturday, May 26th_.--Saw the first English land, the Start, at 2.30
+a.m. Wind continued fresh and fair, but at noon dropped calm, and we
+had to steam through the Needles instead of sailing, as we had done on
+our way out. We reached Cowes about 3 p.m., and were immediately
+welcomed by several yachts, who dipped their ensigns and fired their
+guns. We landed, and were warmly greeted by many friends, and, after
+sending off telegrams and letters, re-embarked and proceeded towards
+Hastings. We were anxious to land by daylight, but this was not to be.
+So it turned out to be midnight before we reached Beachy Head and
+could discern the lights of Hastings shining in the distance. As we
+drew near to our anchorage we could see two boats coming swiftly
+towards us from the shore. The crews were members of the Royal Naval
+Artillery Volunteers, and as they came alongside they raised a shout
+of welcome. Hastings had been expecting us all the afternoon, and late
+as was the hour, 1.30 a.m., we were immediately surrounded by a fleet
+of boats, and many willing hands seized our heterogeneous cargo and
+multitudinous packages, and before daylight all had been safely landed
+on the pier. We committed ourselves to the care of the R.N.A.V., and
+landed in their boats, and at 4.30, proceeding to the Queen's Hotel,
+we had a joyous meeting with T.A.B. and Maud.
+
+[Illustration: Our Welcome back off Hastings.]
+
+How can I describe the warm greetings that met us everywhere, or the
+crowd that surrounded us, not only when we landed, but as we came out
+of church; how, along the whole ten miles from Hastings to Battle,
+people were standing by the roadside and at their cottage doors to
+welcome us; how the Battle bell-ringers never stopped ringing except
+during service time; or how the warmest of welcomes ended our
+delightful year of travel and made us feel we were home at last, with
+thankful hearts for the providential care which had watched over us
+whithersoever we roamed?
+
+    I travell'd among unknown men,
+      In lands beyond the sea,
+    Nor, England! did I know till then
+      What love I bore to thee.
+
+[Illustration: Home at Last.]
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+SUMMARY OF THE ENTIRE VOYAGE.
+
+COMPILED FROM THE LOG-BOOK.
+
+
+JULY 1876.
+
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+-------------------------------
+ J|             |     |      |        |         |     Since previous noon
+ u|   Remarks   |Temp | Temp |Latitude|Longitude+---------+-----------+---------
+ l|             | of  |  of  |        |         | Course  |  Distance | Wind and
+ y|             |water|  air |        |         |         |Steam |Sail|  weather
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+---------+------+----+---------
+  |             | F ° | F  ° | °   '  | °   '   |         |      |    |
+ 6|Left Cowes,  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |I. of W.     | ... | ...  |   ...  |   ...   | Various |  ... | ...| ...
+ 7|Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Torbay at    |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |8.30 a.m.    | ... | ...  |   ...  |   ...   |     "   |  ... | 113| ...
+ 8|Left Torbay  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at noon      | ... | ...  |   ...  |   ...   |    "    |  ... |   8| ...
+ 9|  ...   ...  | ... | ...  | 48 45 N|  4 46 W |    "    |    8 | 107| ...
+10|  ...   ...  | ... | ...  | 46 27 N|  6 50 W |    "    |   99 |  62| ...
+11|Cape Villano,|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |69 miles,    |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at noon      | ... | ...  | 44 16 N|  9 10 W |SW, 3/4°W|  ... | 164| ...
+12|Madeira, 513;|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Torbay,      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |672 miles    | ... | ...  | 40 29 N| 11  1 W |SW by S  |  ... | 227| ...
+13|Madeira, 375 |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |miles        | ... | ...  | 38 24 N| 12 21 W |   SW    |   98 |  36|NNE 26 c.
+14|Madeira, 246 |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |miles        | ... | ...  | 36 36 N| 13 58 W |SW, 1/4°W|   40 |  90|SE 2
+15|Porto Santo, |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |NNE 2.
+  |90 miles     | ... | ...  | 34 25 N| 15 35 W |S, 33° W |   29 | 123|Foggy
+16|Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Madeira      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |(Funchal) at |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |noon         | ... | ...  |   ...  |    ...  |S, 31° W |   79 |  57|NE 3
+19|Left Madeira |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at 9.25 p.m. | 72  | ...  |   ...  |    ...  |   ...   |  ... | ...| ...
+20|Tenerife, 163|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |miles        | 73  | 67   | 31 11 N| 16 45 W |S, 30° E |   20 |  67|NE 3 to 5
+21|Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Puerto       |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Orotava at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |2.30 p.m.    | 70  | 69   | 28 38 N| 16 42 W |S, 2° E  |  144 |  15| ...
+24|Left Puerto  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Orotava,     |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Tenerife, at |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |noon         | ... | ...  |   ...  |    ...  |   ...   |  ... | ...| ...
+25| ...   ...   | 72  | 70   | 26 53 N| 19 11 W |   ...   |   20 | 173| ...
+26| ...   ...   | 72  | 75   | 24 45 N| 21  0 W |S, 37° W |  ... | 161| ...
+27| ...   ...   | 72  | 74   | 22 27 N| 23  4 W |S, 39° W |  ... | 180| ...
+28| ...   ...   | 73  | 71   | 19 48 N| 24 14 W |S, 22° W |  ... | 172| ...
+29| ...   ...   | 75  | 77   | 17 26 N| 24 55 W |S, 16° W |  ... | 148| ...
+30|Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Tarafal Bay, |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |St. Antonio, |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |9a.m.; left  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |6 p.m.       | 75  | 75   |   ...  |    ...  | Various |   15 |  52| ...
+31| ...   ...   | 78  | 73   | 14 45 N| 25 26 W |   ...   |  120 |  12|NE 3
+  |             |-----|------|        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Average      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |temperature  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |for the month|73.2°|72.33°|        |         |         |      |    |
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+---------+------+----+---------
+
+
+AUGUST 1876.
+
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+-------------------------------
+ A|             |     |      |        |         |     Since previous noon
+ u|   Remarks   |Temp | Temp |Latitude|Longitude+---------+-----------+---------
+ g|             | of  |  of  |        |         | Course  |  Distance | Wind and
+ .|             |water|  air |        |         |         |Steam |Sail| weather
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+---------+------+----+---------
+  |             | F ° | F  ° | °   '  | °   '   |         |      |    |
+ 1| ...   ...   | 79  | 74   | 11 59 N| 25  9 W |S, 5° E  |  159 |  13|Calm
+ 2| ...   ...   | 78  | 74   |  9 10 N| 24 46 W |S, 7° E  |  163 | ...|SW by W 2
+ 3| ...   ...   | 79  | 75   |  7 42 N| 21 38 W |S, 57° E |  160 |  27|SSW 7
+ 4|Sierra Leone,|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |S to SSE
+  |289 miles    | 79  | 74   |  7 16 N| 18 34 W |S, 84° E |  ... | 241|6-7
+ 5| ...   ...   | 79  | 75   |  5 48 N| 20 30 W |S, 53° W |  ... | 139|S4
+ 6|The warm     |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Guinea and   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Equatorial   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |currents     |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |extend to    |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |about 7° N,  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |and the      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |latter to    |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |about 5° S,  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |of the       |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |S by E 5
+  |Equator      | 79  | 74   |  3 58 N| 22  6 W |S, 42° W |  ... | 156|to 6
+ 7| ...   ...   | 74  | 71   |  1 52 N| 24  5 W |S, 43° W |  ... | 179|S 4 to 5
+ 8|St. Paul's   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Rock, 250    |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |miles.       |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Crossed      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Equator at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |10.30 a.m.   | 75  | 72.3 |  0 56 S| 26 34 W |S, 42° W |  ... | 225|SE 6 to 7
+ 9| ...   ...   | 78  | 74   |  4 23 S| 28 42 W |S, 32° W |  ... | 243|SSE,
+  |             |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |ESE 7
+10|Pernambuco,  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |270 miles    | 78  | 73.8 |  7 35 S| 30 19 W |S, 24° W |  ... | 211|SE 6
+11| ...   ...   | 77  | 71.5 | 10 11 S| 32 26 W |S, 39° W |  ... | 200|SE 4 to 5
+12|Bahia, 300   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |miles        | 74  | 71.3 | 13  1 S| 33 51 W |S, 28° W |  ... | 196|SE 5
+13| ...   ...   | 74  | 71   | 15 42 S| 35 51 W |S, 37° W |  ... | 202|SE by S 5
+14| ...   ...   | 74.3| 70.7 | 17 25 S| 37 31 W |S, 43° W |  ... | 141|NNE 4
+15| ...   ...   | 73  | 69.5 | 19 58 S| 38  1 W |S, 11° W |  ... | 155|NEly 5
+16| ...   ...   | 66  | 67   | 22 37 S| 40 39 W |S, 45° W |  ... | 225|NE 5
+17|Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Rio de       |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Janeiro at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |WSW
+  |6.15 p.m     | 64.5| 65   | 23 53 S| 42 50 W |   ...   |   87 |  82|6 to 9
+  |             |-----|------|        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Average      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |temperature  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |for the month|75.3°|71.94°|        |         |         |      |    |
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+---------+------+----+---------
+
+
+SEPTEMBER 1876.
+
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+-------------------------------
+ S|             |     |      |        |         |     Since previous noon
+ e|   Remarks   |Temp | Temp |Latitude|Longitude+---------+-----------+---------
+ p|             | of  |  of  |        |         | Course  |  Distance | Wind and
+ t|             |water|  air |        |         |         |Steam |Sail| weather
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+---------+------+----+---------
+  |             | F ° | F  ° | °   '  | °   '   |         |      |    |
+ 5|Left Rio de  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Janeiro at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |SSW
+  |6 a.m.       | ... | ...  |   ...  |   ...   |   ...   |   36 | ...|2 to 3
+ 6|             | 70  | 64   | 24 56 S| 45 40 W |   ...   |  120 |  32|NE 5
+ 7|             | 67  | 65   | 26 50 S| 47 34 W |   ...   |  ... | 136|NE 8
+ 8|             | 68  | 67   | 30 30 S| 49  4 W |S, 16° W |  ... | 243|NE 8 to 9
+ 9|Lobos, WSW,  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |160 miles    | 57  | 57.5 | 34 18 S| 51 43 W |S, 31° W |  ... | 270|SW 4
+10|             | 57  | 58   | 31 48 S| 54 13 W |S, 72° W |  119 |  31|S by E 6
+  |             |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |to 7
+11|Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Monte Video  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at 4.30 a.m. | 60.3| 60   |   ...  |   ...   |    ...  |  115 | ...| ...
+12|Left Monte   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Video at     |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |6 a.m.       | ... | ...  |   ...  |   ...   |   ...   |  119 | ...|NE 2 to 3
+13|Arrived off  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Buenos Ayres |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at 10 p.m.   | ... | ...  |   ...  |   ...   |    ...  |  ... | ...| ...
+27|Left Buenos  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  | Ayres at    |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |11.30 a.m.   | 62  | 60.3 |   ...  |   ...   |    ...  |  ... | ...| ...
+28|Rescued crew |     |      |        |         |Various  |      |    |WSW to NW
+  |of           |     |      |        |         |down R.  |      |    |3, WNW 7
+  |'Monkshaven' | 53  | 57.5 | 36 57 S| 55 44 W |Plate    |  119 |  50|to 8
+29|             | 51.3| 57   | 38 50 S| 57  5 W |   ...   |   83 |  53| ...
+30|             | 52  | 51.5 | 41 00 S| 59 50 W |S, 40° W |  ... | 196|NW by W 6
+  |             |-----|------|        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Average      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |temperature  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |for the month|59.7°|59.78°|        |         |         |      |    |
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+---------+------+----+---------
+
+
+OCTOBER 1876.
+
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+-------------------------------
+ O|             |     |      |        |         |     Since previous noon
+ c|   Remarks   |Temp | Temp |Latitude|Longitude+---------+-----------+---------
+ t|             | of  |  of  |        |         | Course  |  Distance | Wind and
+ .|             |water|  air |        |         |         |Steam |Sail| weather
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+---------+------+----+---------
+  |             | F ° | F  ° | °   '  | °   '   |         |      |    |
+ 1| ...   ...   | 50.7| 53   | 43 10 S| 62 28 W |S, 45° W |  103 |  64|NW by W 6
+ 2| ...   ...   | 49  | 51   | 45 33 S| 64  0 W |S, 39° W |  139 |  31|SW 7 to 8
+ 3| ...   ...   | 46  | 49   | 48 31 S| 65  9 W |S, 15° W |   65 | 116|W by S 6
+ 4| ...   ...   | 43.5| 42.5 | 49 25 S| 67 17 S |   ...   |  122 |  14|SE by S 6
+ 5|Off Cape     |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Virgin at    |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |noon. Arrived|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at Possession|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Bay at       |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |7.45 p.m.    | 43.5| 44   | 52 20 S| 68 17 W |   ...   |  185 | ...|N by E4
+ 6|Left         |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Possesion Bay|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at 6 a.m.    |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |Light
+  |Sandy Point  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |airs,
+  |at 2.30 p.m. | ... | ...  | 52 45 S| 70 20 W |    ...  |  95  | ...|SW6
+ 8|Left Sandy   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Point at 6   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |a.m. Arrived |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at Borja Bay |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Straits of   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Magellan, at |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |SE and E
+  |6.30 p.m.    | 46  | 46.2 | 53 53 S| 71 17 W | Various | 105  | ...|3 to 4
+ 9|Left Borja   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Bay at 6.30  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |a.m. Arrived |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at Otter Bay |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at 6.55 p.m. | 45.8| 45.8 | 52 22 S| 73 40 W |   "     | 105  | ...| ...
+10|Left Otter   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Bay at 5 a.m.|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Puerto Bueno |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at 5.30 p.m. | 49  | 48.7 | 51  0 S| 74 12 W |   "     |   95 | ...| ...
+11|Left Puerto  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Bueno at 5   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |a.m. Arrived |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at Port      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Grappler at  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |7 p.m.       | 49  | 50   | 49 26 S| 74 20 W |   "     |  105 | ...| ...
+12|Left         |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |Calm and
+  |Port         |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |light
+  |Grappler at  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |southerly
+  |5 a.m.       | 51  | 51   |  ...   |   ...   |   "     |   60 | ...|winds
+13| ...  ...    | 52  | 51.8 | 46  0 S| 76 23 W |   "     |  150 |  25|NEly
+  |             |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |5 to 3
+14| ...  ...    | 53.7| 52.8 | 44 55 S| 76 46 W |N, 14° W |  ... |  67|SW 2 to 3
+15| ...  ...    | 56  | 55   | 42 47 S| 76  3 W |N, 14° E |  100 |  32|Calm, S
+  |             |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |by E 1-2
+16| ...  ...    | 57.8| 57.5 | 39 52 S| 74 42 W |N, 20° E |  152 |  37|S by E 2
+  |             |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |to 3
+17| ...  ...    | 59  | 58.2 | 39  0 S| 74 38 W |N, 52° E |   28 |  63|NW by W
+  |             |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |4 to 5
+18|Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |Calm &
+  |Lota, Chilli,|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |light
+  |at 9 a.m.    | ... | ...  |   ...  |   ...   | Various |  144 | ...|airs
+19|Left Lota at |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |NW by
+  |2 p.m.       | 57  | ...  |   ...  |   ...   |  ...    |  ... | ...|W 6
+20|Valparaiso,  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |S by W
+  |195 miles    | 60.2| 57.9 | 36  5 S| 72 59 W |  ...    |  ... |  65|5 to 6
+21|Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Valparaiso   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at 4 p.m.    | ... | ...  | 33 18 S| 72 19 W |  ...    |  ... | 211|S by W 6
+30|Left         |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |Light
+  |Valparaiso   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |airs
+  |at 3 p.m.    | ... | ...  |   ...  |   ...   |  ...    |  ... | ...|and calms
+31| ...   ...   | 62.1| 61   | 32 34 S| 72 58 W |N, 73° W |  ... |  81|NW by N 5
+  |             |-----|------|        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Average      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |temperature  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |for the month|51.7°| 51.5°|        |         |         |      |    |
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+---------+------+----+---------
+
+
+NOVEMBER 1876.
+
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------------------------------
+  |            |  Temp.  |  Temp.  |       |        |
+ N|            | of water|  of air |       |        |      Since previous noon
+ o|  Remarks   +----+----+----+----+ Lat.  | Long.  +--------+----------+------------
+ v|            |Noon|6   |Noon|6   |       |        | Course | Distance | Wind and
+ .|            |    |p.m.|    |p.m.|       |        |        |Steam|Sail| weather
+--+------------+----+----+----+----+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+  |            |F  °|F  °|F  °|F  °|  °  ' |  °  '  |        |     |    |
+ 1|In S.       |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Pacific     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |W by N 3
+  |Ocean       |63.3|... |61.2|... |31 30 S| 72 55 W|N, 64° W| ... | 112|to 4
+ 2|Ditto Ditto |65.6|... |62.3|... |30 54 S| 74  9 W|N, 61° W| ... | 111|S 3
+ 3|Ditto Ditto |67.3|... |63.5|... |29 11 S| 76 15 W|N, 46° W| ... | 151|SSE 6
+ 4|Ditto Ditto |68.3|68.2|64.2|64  |27 45 S| 78 55 W|N, 59° W| ... | 167|SE 3
+ 5|Ditto Ditto |71.8|69.3|66  |65.3|26 54 S| 80 48 W|N, 63° W| ... | 113|SE 3
+ 6|Ditto Ditto |71.5|69.7|68  |66  |25 52 S| 83 10 W|N, 64° W| ... | 140|ESE 3
+ 7|Ditto Ditto |71  |70  |68.8|66.3|24 47 S| 85 51 W|N, 66° W| ... | 163|NE by E 3
+ 8|Ditto Ditto |... |... |... |... |23 47 S| 86 58 W|N, 46° W| ... | 107|NNW 2.
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |Calms
+ 9|Ditto Ditto |72  |72.3|68  |68.2|21 28 S| 88 27 W|N, 31° W| 144 |  18|ESE 4
+10|Ditto Ditto |72.3|72  |74  |69  |19 12 S| 89 48 W|N, 29° W| ... | 166|E by S 6
+11|Ditto Ditto |73  |71.3|69.5|68.8|17 19 S| 91 42 W|N, 44° W| ... | 156|ESE 6
+12|Ditto Ditto |73  |72.3|71  |70  |16 53 S| 94 43 W|S, 82° W| ... | 178|ESE 4 to 6
+13|Ditto Ditto |74.3|73.2|71  |70.5|16 56 S| 98 17 W|S, 89° W| ... | 215|ESE 7
+14|Ditto Ditto |73.5|73.8|71.3|71  |17  6 S|102 11 W|S, 87° W| ... | 217|E 6
+15|Ditto Ditto |76  |76  |72.8|71.7|16 44 S|105 57 W|N, 86° W| ... | 217|ENE 6
+16|Ditto Ditto |77  |75.8|73  |73  |17  0 S|109 16 W|S, 85° W| ... | 199|ENE
+17|Ditto Ditto |77.8|77.5|76.2|75.0|17 16 S|112  0 W|S, 84° W| ... | 159|E to N 5
+18|Ditto Ditto |79  |77.8|75.2|73.5|16 18 S|114 52 W|N, 70° W| ... | 173|E 5
+19|Ditto Ditto |79  |78.2|78  |76  |15 38 S|117 52 W|N, 77° W| ... | 180| ...
+20|Ditto Ditto |80.2|79.3|77  |76.5|15 19 S|120 17 W|N, 82° W| ... | 139|ENE 3
+21|Ditto Ditto |80  |79  |78  |76.3|15 25 S|122 18 W|S, 87° W| ... | 121|ENE 3 to 4
+22|Ditto Ditto |81  |79.8|78.2|77  |15 21 S|124 20 W|N, 88° W| ... | 123|NE by E
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |3 to 4
+23|Ditto Ditto |81.2|80.2|78  |77  |15  4 S|126 40 W|N, 83° W| ... | 141|NE 3
+24|Ditto Ditto |81  |81  |79.2|77  |15 18 S|129 12 W|S, 85° W| ... | 153|NNE 3
+25|Ditto Ditto |81  |80.2|78  |77.8|15 27 S|132 12 W|S, 86° W| 160 |  21|E 2
+26|Ditto Ditto |82.2|81.5|80.7|78.3|15 47 S|135 20 W|  ...   | 142 |  35|ESE 4
+27|Ditto Ditto |81  |80.5|79  |78  |16 54 S|138  9 W|  ...   | 156 |  32| ...
+28|Stopped at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Bow Island  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Low         |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Archipelago,|    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |for 3 hours |81.8|81.6|80  |79.6|17 55 S|140 43 W|S, 56° W|  20 | 148|ESE 4 to 5
+29| ...        |81.7|81  |79.5|77  |18 41 S|143  7 W|  ...   |  10 | 152|SE 4 to 5
+30| ...        |81.3|81  |80  |79.3|18 20 S|145 57 W|N, 79° W| ... | 162|NE 4 to 5
+  |            |---------|---------|       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Average     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |temperature |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |for the     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |month       |  76.3°  |   73.3° |       |        |        |     |    |
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+
+
+DECEMBER 1876.
+
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------------------------------
+  |            |  Temp.  |  Temp.  |       |        |
+ D|            | of water|  of air |       |        |      Since previous noon
+ e|  Remarks   +----+----+----+----+ Lat.  | Long.  +--------+----------+------------
+ c|            |Noon|6   |Noon|6   |       |        | Course | Distance |  Wind and
+ .|            |    |p.m.|    |p.m.|       |        |        |Steam|Sail|  weather
+--+------------+----+----+----+----+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+  |            |F  °|F  °|F  °|F  °|  °  ' |  °  '  |        |     |    |
+ 1|Landed at   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Maitea at   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |10 a.m.     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Left at     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |3:30 p.m.   |... |... |... |... |17 53 S|147 55 W|W, 1/4°N| ... | 139|NE 4 to 3
+ 2|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Tahiti      |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |NE to NW,
+  |at 8 a.m.   |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  17 |  98|5 to a calm
+ 8|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Tahiti at   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |6 p.m.      |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | ... | ...| ...
+ 9| ...  ...   |82.3|82  |80  |79  |15 28 S|149 24 W|  ...   | 101 |  24|ENE and E 5
+10| ...  ...   |82.5|82  |80.3|79  |13 31 S|149 45 W|N, 10° W| ... | 124|NE by
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |E 3 to 7
+11| ...  ...   |83.3|82.5|81  |79.2|11  0 S|150  3 W|  ...   | ... | 155|NE and NE 5
+12| ...  ...   |83.6|81  |79.4|79  | 9 10 S|149 48 W|N,  8° W| ... | 151|NE 4 to 5
+13| ...  ...   |83  |82  |80.2|78.5| 5 34 S|150 45 W|N, 15° W| ... | 224|NE 5
+14|Crossed     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Equator at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |4.30 a.m.   |81.5|80  |80  |77.8| 2 12 S|152 18 W|N, 24° W| ... | 221|NE 5
+15| ...  ...   |81.5|81  |80.7|79  | 1 10 N|152  3 W|N,  4° E| ... | 203|NE by E 5,
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |SE 6
+16| ...  ...   |81.2|81  |78.3|78  | 3 15 N|151 26 W|N, 17° E|  22 | 109|SE 5
+17|To Hilo,    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |885 Miles   |81.5|82.3|79.8|78.2| 5 28 N|150 16 W|N, 58° E| 136 |  15|In Doldrums
+18| ...  ...   |83  |82  |79.7|78  | 7 54 N|150 36 W| , 11° W|  48 | 105|NE 5 to 7
+19| ...  ...   |81  |80  |77.5|77  |10 22 N|152 37 W| , 22° W| ... | 160| ...
+20| ...  ...   |79.5|79  |77.3|77  |13 43 N|152 43 W|N, 18° W| ... | 212|NE 7
+21| ...  ...   |78.2|78  |74  |73.8|16 28 N|153 28 W|N,  5° W|  26 | 145|Lost NE
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |Trades in
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |heavy
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |showers
+22|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Hilo, Hawaii|    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 3.30 p.m.|77.2| ...|74.5|... |19 44 N|155  4 W|N, 25° W| 202 |  38| ...
+26|Left Hilo   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 5.15 p.m.|... |77.8|... |74.3|  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | ... | ...| ...
+27|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Honolulu,   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Oahu, at    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |5.15 p.m.   |78  |... |76  |... |20 42 N|157 20 W|Various | 200 | ...| ...
+  |            |---------|---------|       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Average     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |temperature |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |for         |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |the month   |  80.1°  |  78.4°  |       |        |        |     |    |
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+
+
+JANUARY 1877.
+
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------------------------------
+  |            |  Temp.  |  Temp.  |       |        |
+ J|            | of water|  of air |       |        |      Since previous noon
+ a|  Remarks   +----+----+----+----+ Lat.  | Long.  +--------+----------+------------
+ n|            |Noon|6   |Noon|6   |       |        | Course | Distance |  Wind and
+ .|            |    |p.m.|    |p.m.|       |        |        |Steam|Sail|  weather
+--+------------+----+----+----+----+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+  |            |F  °|F  °|F  °|F  °|  °  ' |  °  '  |        |     |    |
+ 3|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Honolulu at |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |5 p.m.      |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | ... | ...|ENE 4
+ 4| ...  ...   |78.2|77.8|78.1|76  |20 10 N|159 50 W|S, 59° W|  65 |  70|E by S 6
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |to 8
+ 5| ...  ...   |78  |77.7|76.8|76.6|20  4 N|164  5 W|W       | ... | 240|SE by S 8
+ 6| ...  ...   |79.3|78.1|78.5|77.8|20  3 N|168 53 W|W       | ... | 253|S by E 7
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |to 9
+ 7| ...  ...   |79  |77  |74.2|74  |19 31 N|169 35 W|S, 60° W| ... | 120|N 1/2, W 9
+ 8| ...  ...   |78.2|77.8|73.2|71.5|17 15 N|173  8 W|S, 59° W| ... | 244|N by E 9
+ 9| ...  ...   |79.8|78  |74  |71.7|16 44 N|177 15 W|S, 82° W| ... | 240|E by S 2
+10| ...  ...   |79.8|79.5|76  |74.2|17 15 N|179  6 W|N, 74° W|  20 |  92|Calms
+11|180°        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |longitude   |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | ... | ...| ...
+12| ...  ...   |80.2|80  |77.8|75.5|17 16 N|178 28 E|W       | 102 |  38|S by E 4
+13| ...  ...   |80.3|79.8|78.2|75.2|17 19 N|176 29 E|W       | ... | 115|NE 3
+14|To Yokohama,|    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |2,700 miles |80  |79.8|75.2|75  |16  1 N|173 25 E|S, 66° W|  98 |  96|NNE 10
+15| ...  ...   |80.2|80  |73.8|73.5|16  2 N|168 15 E|W       | ... | 298|NE 9
+16| ...  ...   |80.1|79.7|75  |74.2|16 38 N|163 47 E|N, 82° W| ... | 260|ENE 7
+17| ...  ...   |79  |78.2|76  |75  |17  3 N|159 37 E|N, 84° W| ... | 240|ENE 6
+18| ...  ...   |79.8|79  |76  |75.2|17 36 N|155 40 E|N, 82° W| ... | 229|ENE 4
+19| ...  ...   |79  |78.4|77  |75.2|18 16 N|153 11 E|N, 74° W| ... | 148|NNE 2
+20| ...  ...   |79.2|78  |76  |75  |18 57 N|150 23 E|N, 75° W| 151 |  13|N by W 3
+21| ...  ...   |78.2|77.2|73.5|72.3|19 36 N|147 19 E|N, 77° W| 128 |  50|N by W to
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |NNW 4 to 5
+22| ...  ...   |77.5|76.3|67.5|66  |20  7 N|144  5 E|N, 81° W| ... | 185|NNE 8 to 7
+23| ...  ...   |71  |70  |62.5|61.5|21 52 N|141 39 E|N, 52° W| ... | 172|NNE 5 to 3
+24| ...  ...   |68.5|68  |61.5|59.2|23 33 N|139 29 E|N, 50° W| ... | 158|NE 7 to 6
+25| ...  ...   |68  |67.8|59  |59  |26 12 N|138 10 E|N, 24° W| ... | 174|ESE 3
+26| ...  ...   |65.5|64.5|61  |59.5|29 23 N|137 33 E|N, 10° W| 100 |  94|W 9 to 10
+27| ...  ...   |63.5|64.2|51.5|51  |30 59 N|137 49 E|N,  8  E| ... |  94|NWly 3 to 4
+28| ...  ...   |64  |63.2|48.2|46  |32 40 N|138 35 E|N, 21° E| ... | 108|W by N 7
+29|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Yokohama at |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |3.30 p.m.   |63  |52  |... |41.2|  ...  |  ...   |Various |  60 | 121|Gale
+  |            |---------|---------|       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Average     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |temperature |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |for the     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |month       |  76.8°  |  69.7°  |       |        |        |     |    |
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+
+
+FEBRUARY 1877.
+
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------------------------------
+  |            |  Temp.  |  Temp.  |       |        |
+ F|            | of water|  of air |       |        |      Since previous noon
+ e|  Remarks   +----+----+----+----+ Lat.  | Long.  +--------+----------+------------
+ b|            |Noon|6   |Noon|6   |       |        | Course | Distance |  Wind and
+ .|            |    |p.m.|    |p.m.|       |        |        |Steam|Sail|  weather
+--+------------+----+----+----+----+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+  |            |F  °|F  °|F  °|F  °|  °  ' |  °  '  |        |     |    |
+ 2|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Yokohama    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 6.30     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |p.m.        |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |Various | ... | ...| ...
+ 3| ...  ...   |53  |52  |41.2|41  |  ...  |  ...   |        | 122 | ...|NW 3
+ 4|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |Steering|     |    |
+  |Kobe at     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |7 p.m.      |58  |46  |40  |35.5|  ...  |  ...   |        | 178 | ...|NNE 9
+12|Left Kobe at|    |    |    |    |       |        |along   |     |    |
+  |6 a.m. and  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |returned at |    |    |    |    |       |        |the     |     |    |
+  |2 p.m.      |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |        |  40 | ...| ...
+15|Left Kobe   |    |    |    |    |       |        |South   |     |    |
+  |at 4.30     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  | a.m. and   |    |    |    |    |       |        |Coast   |     |    |
+  |anchored at |    |    |    |    |       |        |of      |     |    |
+  |Ino Ura at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |8.30 p.m.   |46.1|45  |33  |32.5|  ...  |  ...   |Japan   |  90 | ...|W 9
+16|Left Ino Ura|    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 5 a.m.   |49.5|50  |39  |37.5|  ...  |  ...   |        | 110 | ...| ...
+17|Anchored    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |off Isaki   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |lighthouse  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 4 a.m.   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Left the    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |anchorage   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 8.30     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |a.m. and    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Simoneseki  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 11 a.m.  |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  50 | ...| ...
+19|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Simoneseki  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 8.30 a.m.|44.2|58  |34  |41.3|  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  40 | ...| ...
+20| ...  ...   |64  |61  |51  |46.5|31 16 N|131 54 E|  ...   |  64 | 127|NW by W 9
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |to 6
+21| ...  ...   |69  |67  |60  |59.5|29  7 N|129 49 E|SW      | 183 | ...|Calm
+22| ...  ...   |68.2|62  |67  |62  |28 13 N|125 53 E|WSW     |  13 | 208|ESE
+23| ...  ...   |67.3|65.5|65.2|64.2|27 14 N|123  3 E|S, 63° W| ... | 178|SE
+24| ...  ...   |55  |55  |51.8|49  |25  0 N|119 35 E|  ...   |  34 | 183|NE 7 to 10
+25| ...  ...   |61  |... |56.5|... |22 35 N|115 38 E|  ...   | ... | 288|NE 10 to 6
+26|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Hongkong    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 8 a.m.   |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  61 |  29| ...
+  |            |---------|---------|       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Average     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |temperature |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |for the     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |month       |  56.5°  |  48°    |       |        |        |     |    |
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+
+
+MARCH 1877.
+
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------------------------------
+  |            |  Temp.  |  Temp.  |       |        |
+ M|            | of water|  of air |       |        |      Since previous noon
+ a|  Remarks   +----+----+----+----+ Lat.  | Long.  +------ -+----------+------------
+ r|            |Noon|6   |Noon|6   |       |        | Course | Distance | Wind and
+ .|            |    |p.m.|    |p.m.|       |        |        |Steam|Sail| weather
+--+------------+----+----+----+----+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+  |            |F  °|F  °|F  °|F  °|  °  ' |  °  '  |        |     |    |
+ 7|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Hongkong at |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |7 a.m.      |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Macao at    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |1.30 p.m.   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Left at     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |6.30 p.m.   |... |64.5|... |64.3|  ...  |   ...  |  ...   |  45 | ...| ...
+8 | ...  ...   |72.5|72.2|72.3|70  |20  5 N|113 28 E|  ...   | 136 | ...| ...
+9 | ...  ...   |73.8|72  |72  |68  |18  0 N|113  6 E|S       |  48 |  79|E 3
+10| ...  ...   |78  |76.8|73  |71.8|15 40 N|113 48 E|SSE     |  20 | 128|NE 3
+11| ...  ...   |78  |78.2|75.5|74.3|13 45 N|112  1 E|SW by  W| ... | 155|NE 4
+12| ...  ...   |79  |78  |76.4|76  |11 29 N|110 32 E|S, 35° W| ... | 170|NE 4
+13| ...  ...   |77.7|77.5|78  |75.7| 9 34 N|108 33 E|S, 46° W| ... | 171|NE 4
+14| ...  ...   |78  |77.7|77.6|76.3| 7 34 N|107  3 E|SW by  S| ... | 150|NE 3 to 4
+15| ...  ...   |79.5|79  |78  |77  | 4 46 N|106 16 E|S by W, | ... | 176|NE 4
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |1/2° W  |     |    |
+16| ...  ...   |80  |80  |78  |76.3| 2 51 N|104 43 E|SW,     | ... | 150|NE 3 to 4
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |1/2° S  |     |    |
+17|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Singapore   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 8 a.m.   |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  63 |  72|NE 3 to 4
+18|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Singapore   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 3 p.m.   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |and arrived |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at Johore   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 8 p.m.   |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | ... | ...| ...
+19|Left Johore |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 4 a.m.   |... |83.2|... |79.7|  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  36 | ...|Calms
+20|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |and
+  |at Malacca  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 8 a.m.;  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |light
+  |left at     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |airs
+  |11.30a.m.   |... |83.2|... |79.5|  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | 130 | ...|from
+21| ...  ...   |88  |... |80.5|... | 4  4 N|100 30 E|  ...   | 170 | ...|NE
+22|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Penang at   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |8 a.m. left |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 10 p.m.  |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  99 | ...|
+23| ...  ...   |83.8|84.5|88.2|81  | 5 55 N| 98 39 E|  ...   | 109 | ...| ...
+24| ...  ...   |84.2|84  |82  |79  | 6 10 N| 95  5 E|  ...   | 212 | ...| ...
+25| ...  ...   |85  |84  |84.2|80  | 6 26 N| 91 41 E|  ...   | 208 | ...| ...
+26| ...  ...   |85.2|84  |86  |81.5| 6 25 N| 88 25 E|  ...   | 198 | ...| ...
+27| ...  ...   |86  |84.2|87  |79  | 6  4 N| 85  3 E|  ...   | 203 | ...| ...
+28| ...  ...   |85.2|... |83  |... | 5 33 N| 81 29 E|  ...   | 218 | ...| ...
+29|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Point de    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Galle at 7  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |a.m. left   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 9.30 p.m.|... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  85 | ...| ...
+30|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Colombo at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |11 a.m.     |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  90 | ...| ...
+  |            |---------|---------|       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Average     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |temperature |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |for the     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |month       |  79.4°  | 78.2°   |       |        |        |     |    |
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+
+APRIL 1877.
+
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------------------------------
+ A|            |  Temp.  |  Temp.  |       |        |
+ p|            | of water|  of air |       |        |      Since previous noon
+ r|  Remarks   +----+----+----+----+ Lat.  | Long.  +--------+----------+------------
+ i|            |Noon|6   |Noon|6   |       |        | Course | Distance |  Wind and
+ l|            |    |p.m.|    |p.m.|       |        |        |Steam|Sail|  weather
+--+------------+----+----+----+----+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+  |            |F  °|F  °|F  °|F  °|  °  ' |  °  '  |        |     |    |
+ 5|Left Colombo|    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Ceylon, at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |1.30 p.m.   |... |85.5|... |80.8|  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | ... | ...| ...
+ 6| ...  ...   |85.8|85  |83  |80.6| 7 26 N|77 10 E |N, 81° W| 165 | ...|W 1
+ 7| ...  ...   |86  |85  |81  |78.3| 7 31 N|74  7 E |N, 88° W| 190 | ...|N 2
+ 8| ...  ...   |85.8|84.5|81.3|79  | 8 16 N|70 31 E |W       | 216 | ...|N 4 to 3
+ 9| ...  ...   |86  |85  |79  |78  | 8 50 N|66 59 E |W by N  | 213 | ...|Calm
+10| ...  ...   |85  |83.5|81  |78.5| 9 38 N|63 32 E |N, 77° W| 210 | ...|NE 1 to 2
+11| ...  ...   |83.6|82.5|83  |79  |10 27 N|60  1 E |  ...   | 214 | ...|ENE 2
+12| ...  ...   |83.8|82.6|82.2|79  |11 14 N|56 30 E |  ...   | 213 | ...|ENE 3 to 4
+13| ...  ...   |83.5|82.3|82.5|80  |11 38 N|52 57 E |N, 83° W| 210 | ...| ...
+14| ...  ...   |83.2|82  |82.8|80  |12 33 N|49 43 E |  ...   | 198 | ...|E 4
+15|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Aden at     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |10 p.m.     |82.8|82  |81  |79  |12 55 N|46 17 E |N, 84° W| 203 | ...| ...
+16|Left Aden   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 7 p.m.   |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  80 | ...| ...
+17|Off Island  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |of Perim    |82.8|82  |83  |81.7|  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | ... | 105| ...
+18| ...  ...   |82  |82.2|83.4|81.5|16 13 N|41 27 E |  ...   | ... | 230|S 5
+19| ...  ...   |82.5|82  |84  |83  |18 13 N|40  7 E |  ...   |  29 | 116| ...
+20| ...  ...   |83.5|82  |84  |83.6|20 39 N|38 30 E |N, 33° W| 149 |  22|Calms
+21| ...  ...   |86.2|82.3|83.5|82.8|23 33 N|36 50 E |N, 30° W| 190 | ...| ...
+22| ...  ...   |78.3|75  |82  |76  |26 18 N|34 55 E |  ...   | 200 | ...| ...
+23| ...  ...   |75.5|74  |71.5|74.5|27 13 N|34  5 E |NNW     |  80 | ...| ...
+24| ...  ...   |71.3|70.2|71.5|74  |28 16 N|33 16 E |  ...   |  89 |  27| ...
+25|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Suez at     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |6 p.m.      |70  |... |71.5|... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  22 |  51| ...
+26|Left Suez   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 9 a.m.   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Ismailia at |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |7.15 p.m.   |76.5|70  |88  |83.6|  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  50 | ...| ...
+27|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Ismailia at |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |8 a.m.      |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Port Said   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 5:30 p.m.|    |    |    |    |       |        |Working |     |    |
+  |5.30 p.m.   |    |    |    |    |       |        |to      |     |    |
+  |left at     |    |    |    |    |       |        |windward|     |    |
+  |9.30 p.m.   |76.7|... |90  |... |  ...  |  ...   |        |  50 | ...| ...
+28| ...  ...   |66.3|64.2|66  |64  |  ...  |  ...   |under   | 174 | ...|WNW 5
+29|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |steam   |     |    |
+  |Alexandria  |    |    |    |    |       |        |and     |     |    |
+  |at 4.30 a.m.|... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |sail    | 117 | ...|WNW 9 to 7
+  |            |---------|---------|       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Average     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |temperature |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |for the     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |month       |  82.3   |  78     |       |        |        |     |    |
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+
+
+MAY 1877.
+
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------------------------------
+  |            |  Temp.  |  Temp.  |       |        |
+ M|            | of water|  of air |       |        |      Since previous noon
+ a|  Remarks   +----+----+----+----+ Lat.  | Long.  +--------+----------+------------
+ y|            |Noon|6   |Noon|6   |       |        | Course | Distance |  Wind and
+  |            |    |p.m.|    |p.m.|       |        |        |Steam|Sail|  weather
+--+------------+----+----+----+----+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+  |            |F  °|F  °|F  °|F  °|  °  ' |  °  '  |        |     |    |
+ 2|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Alexandria  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 4.30 a.m |68  |65.2|70  |64.5|  ...  |  ...   |WNW     |  28 |   2|Calm a.m.
+ 3| ...  ...   |64  |64  |65.2|64.3|32 30 N|28 39 E |N, 30° W|  32 |  80|Fresh to
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |strong
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |NW winds
+ 4| ...  ...   |63.8|63.5|64.2|64  |34 35 N|28 48 E |N,  3° E| ... | 146|NW 7
+ 5| ...  ...   |65  |64  |66  |64.2|34 48 N|27 13 E |W, 1/2°S|  63 |  61|NW 7 & calms
+ 6| ...  ...   |63  |62.2|66.2|64  |34 54 N|23 11 E |W       | 125 |  75|ESE 7
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |& calms
+ 7| ...  ...   |63.6|63  |64.3|63.6|35 51 N|19 48 E |N, 82° W|  46 | 130|ESE 2
+ 8|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Malta at    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |6 p.m.      |64  |63  |64.5|66.2|35 57 N|15 12 E |W       | 199 |  16|N 4 to 7
+10|Left Malta  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 8.15 a.m.|64  |63  |67  |66.5|  ...  |  ...   |Various |  20 |   5|S 2 to 1
+11| ...  ...   |67  |64  |70  |66  |37 20 N|10 24 E |  ...   | 186 |   7|SE & calm
+12| ...  ...   |64.5|64  |69  |68.5|37 32 N| 6 32 E |WNW     | 192 | ...| ...
+13| ...  ...   |63  |63  |67  |66  |37  7 N| 3  3 E |S, 82° E| 173 | ...|SW by W 5
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |to 6
+14| ...  ...   |64  |63.2|66.3|65  |36 50 N| 0 20 E |W, 1/2°S| 163 | ...| ...
+15| ...  ...   |62  |62.3|66.2|66  |36 31 N| 3 43 W |W, 1/2°N| 128 |  35|SE 5
+16|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Gibraltar   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 6:30 a.m.|    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |left at     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |7.30 p.m.   |... |... |... |... |  ...  |   ...  |  ...   |  48 |  26| ...
+17| ...  ...   |67  |67  |68.2|69  |36 27 N| 7 58 W |Various |  10 | 130|E 8; calm
+18|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Lisbon at   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |6.30 p.m.   |64  |... |63.8|... |38 27 N| 9 26 W |  ...   | 144 |   6|NNE 5
+19|Left Lisbon |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 5 p.m.,  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |and anchored|    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |off Fort St.|    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Julien at   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |9.15 p.m.   |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  40 | ...|NNE 7
+20|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |anchorage   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 5 a.m.   |61.5|64  |64  |65  |39 13 N| 9 32 W |  ...   |  60 | ...|N 6
+21| ...  ...   |60.8|59  |61  |63.5|41 36 N| 9  7 W |  ...   | 145 | ...| ...
+22| ...  ...   |56.5|57  |55.5|56.3|43 13 N|10  8 W |N, 22° W|  54 |  86|NE 9
+23| ...  ...   |58  |57  |57  |56  |45  5 N|11  0 W |N, 16° W| ... | 120|NE 7 to 5
+24| ...  ...   |56  |55  |55  |54.3|46 40 N| 8 41 W |  ...   | 149 |   9|NE 3 to 5
+25| ...  ...   |55  |... |54  |... |48 42 N| 6  5 W |  ...   | 160 | ...|NE 3 to 4
+26|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Cowes at    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |1 p.m.      |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | 230 | ...| ...
+27|Hastings    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |1.30 a.m.   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |            |---------|---------|       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Average     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |temperature |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |for the     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |month       |  65°    |  65.1°  |       |        |        |     |    |
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+
+
+
+
+When we finally sailed from Cowes, on July 6, 1876, the list of
+persons on board the yacht was as follows:--
+
+THOMAS BRASSEY, ESQ., M.P. (Owner)
+MRS. BRASSEY
+THOMAS ALLNUTT BRASSEY
+MABELLE ANNIE BRASSEY
+MURIEL AGNES BRASSEY
+MARIE ADELAIDE BRASSEY
+HON. A.Y. BINGHAM
+F. HUBERT FREER, ESQ.
+COMMANDER JAMES BROWN, R.N.
+CAPTAIN SQUIRE T.S. LECKY, R.N.R.
+HENRY PERCY POTTER, ESQ. (Surgeon)
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ISAIAH POWELL, Sailing Master
+HENRY KINDRED, Boatswain
+JOHN RIDGE TEMPLEMAN, Carpenter
+CHARLES COOK, Signalman and Gunner
+JAMES ALLEN, Coxswain of the Gig
+JAMES WALFORD, Captain of the Hold
+JOHN FALE, Coxswain of the Cutter
+HENRY PARKER, Second Coxswain of the Gig
+WILLIAM SEBBORN, A.B.
+WALTER SEBBORN    "
+TURNER ENNEW      "
+WILLIAM MOULTON, A.B.
+ALBERT WISEMAN,  "
+JOHN GREEN,      "
+THOMAS TAYLOR    "
+FREDERICK BUTT   "
+HENRY TICHENER   "
+THOMAS POWELL, Forecastle Cook
+WILLIAM COLE, Boy
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ROBERT ROWBOTTOM, Engineer
+CHARLES McKECHNIE, 2nd ditto
+THOMAS KIRKHAM, Leading Fireman
+GEORGE BURREDGE, Fireman
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+GEORGE LESLIE, Steward
+WILLIAM AINSWORTH, Bedroom Steward
+FREDERICK PARSONS, Saloon Steward
+GEORGE BASSETT, 2nd ditto
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+WILLIAM PRYDE, Cook
+JOSEPH SOUTHGATE, Cook's Mate
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+EMMA ADAMS, Nurse
+HARRIET HOWE, Lady's Maid
+MARY PHILLIPS, Stewardess
+
+
+
+
+The list of those who were temporarily on board the yacht during the
+voyage comprised the following persons:--
+
+ARRIVALS.
+
+CREW OF 'MONKSHAVEN' (15) came on board the 'Sunbeam' Sept. 28.
+ARTHUR TURNER, one of the crew, remained on board the 'Sunbeam '
+  as an A.B.
+JOHN SEBBORN, from U.S. 'Ashuelot,' Hongkong.
+JOHN SHAW (Under-Cook), Hongkong.
+ISAAC AYAK, Hongkong.
+JOHN AHANG, Hongkong.
+MAHOMET. Fireman, Galle.
+ABRAHAM, Fireman. Galle.
+TOM DOLLAR, Fireman, Galle.
+MR. and MRS. WOODROFFE, Ismailia,
+(Total, 24.)
+
+DEPARTURES.
+
+T. ALLNUTT BRASSEY, Rio.
+CREW OF 'MONKSHAVEN' (14) placed on board the 'Ultimand', Oct. 5.
+CAPTAIN LECKY, Buenos Ayres.
+GEO. LESLIE, Ensenada.
+CAPTAIN BROWN, Honolulu.
+WM. PRYDE, Honolulu.
+JOHN FALE, Malacca.
+MAHOMET, Fireman, Suez.
+ABRAHAM, Fireman, Suez.
+TOM DOLLAR, Fireman, Aden.
+MR. and MRS. WOODROFFE, Port Said.
+(Total, 25.)
+
+
+
+
+Note.--Many were the preparations to be made before starting on our
+voyage; the crew had to be selected, we had to decide whether all,
+any, or none of the children should be taken, what friends we should
+invite to accompany us, what stores and provisions we should take, and
+to select from our little fleet of boats those which seemed best
+suited for the various requirements of the voyage. The whole number
+comprised
+
+     The 'Gleam,' lifeboat cutter;
+     The 'Glance,' large gig;
+     The 'Ray,' light gig;
+     The 'Trap' (to catch a sunbeam), steam launch;
+     The 'Mote,' dingy;
+     The 'Flash,' light outrigger.
+
+Of these the 'Trap' and the 'Ray' had to be left behind.
+
+
+
+
+_LETTER_
+
+(From the _Times_ of June 2, 1877).
+
+To the Editor of the 'Times.'--Sir,--Believing it possible that some
+interest may attach to the voyage completed on May 27 by the arrival
+of the 'Sunbeam' at Cowes, I venture to offer to your readers a short
+narrative of our proceedings. The expedition is in some respects
+unprecedented; a circumnavigation of 35,400 miles has never before
+been made in the short period of 46 weeks, from which must be deducted
+112 days of well-earned repose in harbour. We had, it is true, the
+advantage of steam, without which such a performance would have been
+an impossibility; but we travelled 20,517 miles under sail alone, and
+the consumption of coal has not exceeded 350 tons. The 'Sunbeam'
+sailed from Cowes on July 6, called at Torbay, Madeira, Teneriffe, and
+the Cape Verde, crossed the Line on August 8, and, carrying a
+favourable breeze in the south-east trades, without even a momentary
+lull, a distance of 2,500 miles, arrived at Rio Janeiro on August 17.
+Following the coasts of South America, we visited Montevideo, Buenos
+Ayres, and Ensenada, steamed through the Straits of Magellan and
+Smyth's Channel, and reached Valparaiso on October 21.
+
+While on the coast of Patagonia it was our privilege to rescue a crew
+of 15 hands from the bark 'Monkshaven,' laden with an inflammable
+cargo of smelting coals, which had been on fire six days when we most
+providentially descried her signals of distress.
+
+On October 30 we commenced our long and lonely voyage of 12,330 miles
+across the Pacific. We touched at Bow Island in the Low Archipelago,
+Maitea and Tahiti in the Society Islands, and Hawaii and Oahu in the
+Sandwich group. On January 21 we sighted Assumption in the Ladrones,
+and on the 29th arrived at Yokohama. While in Japan we were present at
+the opening of the railway from Osaka to Kioto by the Mikado, and
+subsequently cruised in the Inland Sea in severe winterly weather. At
+Simonoseki we found the people much agitated by the recent outbreak of
+the Satsuma clan. On February 19 we bade a reluctant farewell to
+Japan, and following the most direct route to England, visited in
+succession Hongkong, Canton, Macao, Singapore, Johore, Malacca,
+Penang, Galle, Colombo, Aden, Alexandria, Malta, Gibraltar, and
+Lisbon.
+
+Having given the principal dates, the story of the voyage will be most
+rapidly completed by entering our successive passages in a tabular
+statement:
+
+                                                      Miles
+
+                                               Steam   Sail  Total
+
+Thames and English Channel                       193    205    398
+
+Torbay to Madeira                                353    874  1,227
+
+Madeira to Orotava (Teneriffe)                   164     72    236
+
+Orotava to Tarafal Bay (San Antonio, Cape Verde)  35    886    921
+
+Tarafal Bay to Rio Janeiro                       689  2,647  3,336
+
+Rio to Monte Video and Buenos Ayres              509    712  1,221
+
+Buenos Ayres to Possession Bay
+(Straits of Magellan).                           816    524  1,340
+
+In Straits of Magellan and Smyth's Channel       565     --    565
+
+To Lota and Valparaiso                           634    500  1,134
+
+Valparaiso to Yokohama, calling at Hao in
+the Paumotu Group, Maitea and Tahiti in
+the Society Islands, and Hawaii and Oahu
+in the Sandwich Group                          2,108 10,225 12,333
+
+Yokohama to Kobe and Simonoseki, through
+the Inland Sea                                   653     --    653
+
+Simonoseki to Hongkong                           395  1,015  1,410
+
+Hongkong to Singapore                            312  1,251  1,563
+
+Singapore to Point de Galle, calling at the
+Straits Settlements                            1,668     --  1,668
+
+Galle to Colombo and Aden                      2,202     --  2,202
+
+Aden to Suez                                     807    551  1,358
+
+Suez to Alexandria                               436     --    436
+
+Alexandria to Cowes, touching at Malta,
+Gibraltar, and Lisbon                          2,440    934  3,374
+
+             Total . . . . . . . . . . . . .  14,979 20,396 35,375
+
+
+Having sketched the voyage in outline, the following details may not
+be devoid of interest to readers with nautical tastes.
+
+Every yachtsman should be a lover of sailing. In the cruise of the
+'Sunbeam,' although expedition was an essential consideration, steam
+has been used almost exclusively in calms or in narrow waters, or
+when, as it has often happened, we have sailed at sunset after a hard
+day's work on board, intending to make an offing during the night and
+set sails in the morning.
+
+Of the total distance of 15,000 knots under steam, 12,000 were
+traversed under those special circumstances which seem to justify even
+a yachtsman in availing himself of the unromantic but invaluable
+engine.
+
+The best run under steam alone was 230 knots, and the most successful
+continuous performance was on the passage from Penang to Galle, in the
+week ending April 15, when the 'Sunbeam' steamed 1,451 knots, with a
+daily consumption of 4-Πtons of coal.
+
+The best runs under sail from noon to noon were 298 and 299 knots
+respectively. The first was on the passage from Honolulu to Yokohama,
+sailing along the 16th parallel of north latitude, and between 163
+deg. and 168 deg. 15 min. east. The second was in the Formosa Channel.
+
+The highest speed ever attained under sail was 15 knots in a squall in
+the North Pacific.
+
+On 28 days the distance under sail alone has exceeded, and often
+considerably exceeded, 200 knots.
+
+The best consecutive runs under sail only were:--
+
+I. Week ending August 13, South Atlantic. In the south-east trades,
+wind a-beam, force 5--1,456 knots.
+
+II. Week ending November 19, South Pacific, south-east trades, wind
+aft, force 5--1,360 knots.
+
+III. Four days, January 15 to 18, North Pacific, north-east trades,
+wind on the quarter, force 5 to 9--1,027 knots. The average speed in
+this case was 107 knots an hour.
+
+The following were the average speeds of the longer passages:--
+
+                             Days     Total     Distance     Daily
+                              at     Distance     under     Average
+                              Sea                 Steam
+
+1  Cape Verde to Rio          18      3,336        689        185
+
+2  Valparaiso and Yokohama    72     12,333      2,108        171
+
+3  Simonoseki and Aden        37      6,931      4,577        187
+
+The vessel which has carried us so rapidly and safely round the globe
+claims a brief description. She was designed by Mr. St. Clare Byrne,
+of Liverpool, and may be technically defined as a composite
+three-masted topsail-yard screw schooner. The engines, by Messrs.
+Laird, are of 70 nominal or 350 indicated horse-power, and developed a
+speed of 10.13 knots on the measured mile. The bunkers contain 80 tons
+of coal. The average daily consumption is four tons, and the speed
+eight knots in fine weather. The principal dimensions of the hull
+are;--Length for tonnage, 157 ft.; beam, extreme, 27 ft. 6 in.;
+displacement tonnage, 531 tons; area of midship section, 202 square
+feet.
+
+With an addition of 20 ft. to the length, and more engine power, the
+'Sunbeam' presents a type which might be found efficient for naval
+services in distant waters, where good sailing qualities are
+essential, and large ships are not required.
+
+On looking back, and contrasting the anticipated difficulties with the
+actual experiences of the voyage, the ease and certainty with which
+every passage has been made are truly surprising. Our track has been
+for the most part within the Tropics. The storms off the Cape of Good
+Hope and Cape Horn have been avoided in the inland passages of the
+Straits of Magellan and the Suez Canal. We have encountered no
+continuous stormy weather, except during the four days preceding our
+arrival at Yokohama. We have suffered discomfort from heat and
+detention in calms, but storms have disturbed us seldom, and they have
+not lasted long.
+
+Our experience of gales include a north-east gale off Cape Finisterre,
+on the outward voyage; a northerly gale between Rio and the River
+Plate, a westerly gale off the east coast of Patagonia, short but
+severe gales on each of the four days preceding our arrival at
+Yokohama, a severe gale from the north-west in the Inland Sea, a
+north-east gale in the Formosa Channel, a northerly gale in the
+Straits of Jubal, a westerly gale off Port Said, and an easterly gale
+on the south coast of Candia. On the passage homewards from Gibraltar
+we met strong northerly winds on the coast of Portugal, and a
+north-east gale off Cape Finisterre.
+
+The navigation has presented few difficulties. All the coasts that we
+have visited have been surveyed. Lighthouses are now as numerous and
+efficient on the coasts of China and Japan as on the shores of Europe.
+Such is the perfection of the modern chronometer, that lunar
+observations, the only difficult work in ocean navigation, are no
+longer necessary; and the wind charts published by the Admiralty
+supply to the amateur navigator accumulated information and valuable
+hints for every stage of his voyage.
+
+How infinitely easy is the task of the modern circumnavigator compared
+with the hazardous explorations of Magelhaens and Captain Cook, when
+the chronometer was an instrument of rude and untrustworthy quality,
+when there were no charts, and the roaring of the breakers in the dead
+of night was the mariner's first warning that a coral reef was near!
+
+Our comprehensive and varied cruise has strengthened my former
+convictions that the disasters due to negligence bear a large
+proportion to the number of inevitable losses. Every coast is
+dangerous to the careless commander; but there are no frequented seas
+where, with the exercise of caution and reasonable skill, the dangers
+cannot be avoided. These remarks do not, of course, apply to cases of
+disaster from stress of weather. In fogs there must be delay, though
+not necessarily danger.
+
+In these days of lamentation over the degeneracy of the British
+seaman, my experience may be accepted as a contribution to the mass of
+evidence on this vexed question. I have not been surrounded by such
+smart seamen as can only be found on a man-of-war, but I have no
+ground for general or serious complaint. Many of my crew have done
+their duty most faithfully. In emergencies everybody has risen to the
+occasion, and has done best when his skill or endurance was most
+severely tried--
+
+   'My mariners,
+    Souls that have toiled and wrought and thought with me,
+    That ever with a frolic welcome took
+    The thunder and the sunshine.'
+
+It is always in stormy weather that the good qualities of the British
+seaman are displayed to the greatest advantage. The difficulty is to
+keep up his interest and energies in long intervals of fine weather,
+when nothing occurs to rouse him to an effort, and the faculties of
+the seaman before the mast, no less than those of his officer, are
+benumbed by the monotony and isolation from mankind, which are the
+gravest drawbacks of a sailor's life. It is in these dull moments that
+men are tempted to drink and quarrel, that officers become tyrannical,
+and their crews insubordinate, or even mutinous. Lest it should be
+thought that my impressions of the average sailor are derived from an
+exceptional crew or picked men, I have only to add that the manning of
+the 'Sunbeam' was a family job. The sailing master was related by
+blood or marriage to the majority of his subordinates--fishermen from
+the coast of Essex, who had received their early training among the
+banks and shoals at the mouth of the Thames.
+
+In this connection I tender my sincere tribute of praise to the
+officers of the Navy for their success in maintaining the efficiency
+and spirit of their crews through long commissions on foreign
+stations, much time being necessarily spent in harbour, in many cases
+in the most enervating climates. The discipline of the service seems
+to be admirable, and the seamen are reconciled to it by tradition, by
+early training, and perhaps by an instinctive perception of its
+necessity.
+
+I am equally bound to commend the efficiency of our consular service
+in the remotest outposts of civilisation which we have visited; and
+evidences of good colonial administration are abundantly manifest in
+Hongkong, Singapore, Penang, Ceylon, and Aden, in the prosperity and
+contentment of the people.
+
+It is scarcely necessary to observe, in conclusion, that experiences
+may be gathered in a voyage of circumnavigation which are not to be
+gleaned from Blue-books or from shorter cruises in European waters. A
+more vivid impression is formed of the sailor's daily life, of his
+privations at sea, and his temptations on shore. The services required
+of the Navy are more clearly appreciated after a visit to distant
+foreign stations.
+
+Such a voyage is, indeed, a serious effort. It demands many laborious
+days and anxious nights of watching. For my safe return to 'those
+pale, those white-faced shores,' so welcome to the homeward-bound,
+accompanied, happily, by the adventurous little family who have taken
+part in the expedition, I am truly thankful.
+
+I am, Sir, your obedient servant,
+
+THOMAS BRASSEY.
+
+COWES
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE IN THE 'SUNBEAM'***
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+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Voyage in the 'Sunbeam', by Annie Allnut
+Brassey</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: A Voyage in the 'Sunbeam'</p>
+<p>Author: Annie Allnut Brassey</p>
+<p>Release Date: January 31, 2005  [eBook #14836]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE IN THE 'SUNBEAM'***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h3>E-text prepared by Suzanne Shell, Ronald Holder,<br />
+    and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team</h3>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table border="1" cellpadding="10">
+  <tr>
+    <td valign="top">
+      Transcriber's Notes:
+    </td>
+    <td>
+      1. The first page of Chapter VIII: the last line of text was
+		      partially missing, and a best guess was made on a few
+		      words.<br />
+      <br />
+      2. Page 72: Typograpical error, 'nndertaking' changed to
+		      'undertaking'.<br />
+	  <br />
+      3. Page 55, paragraph starting "Santa Anna', corrected
+    'past' to 'part'.
+	</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page iii<a name="Page_iii"
+       id="Page_iii"></a></span></p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="title-page"
+             id="title-page"></a> <img src="images/titlepg.gif"
+             width="501"
+             height="800"
+             alt="Title Page"
+             title="Title Page" />
+    </div>
+
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page iv<a name="Page_iv"
+       id="Page_iv"></a></span></p>
+
+    <h6>Chicago:<br />
+    Belford, Clarke &amp; Co., Publishers,</h6>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page v<a name="Page_v"
+       id="Page_v"></a></span></p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p class="iheading">DEDICATION</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <i>TO THE FRIENDS in many climes and countries, of
+        the<br />
+        <br />
+        white and coloured races, and of every grade in
+        society,<br />
+        <br />
+        who have made our year of travel a year of happiness,<br />
+        <br />
+        these pages are dedicated by the ever grateful
+        Author</i><br />
+        <br />
+        <a name="Illus_004"
+             id="Illus_004"></a> <img src="images/004.gif"
+             width="421"
+             height="500"
+             alt="Portrait of the Author"
+             title="Portrait of the Author" />
+    </div>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page vii<a name="Page_vii"
+       id="Page_vii"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading">PREFACE.</p>
+
+    <p>This volume needs no elaborate preface. A general sketch of
+    the voyage which it describes was published in the 'Times'
+    immediately after our return to England. That letter is
+    reprinted here as a convenient summary of the 'Sunbeam's'
+    performances. But these prefatory lines would indeed be
+    incomplete if they did not contain a well-deserved tribute to
+    the industry and accuracy of the author. The voyage would not
+    have been undertaken, and assuredly it would never have been
+    completed, without the impulse derived from her perseverance
+    and determination. Still less would any sufficient record of
+    the scenes and experiences of the long voyage have been
+    preserved had it not been for her painstaking desire not only
+    to see everything thoroughly, but to record her impressions
+    faithfully and accurately. The practised skill of a
+    professional writer cannot <span class="pagenum">Page
+    viii<a name="Page_viii"
+       id="Page_viii"></a></span>reasonably be expected in these
+       simple pages, but their object will have been attained if
+       they are the means of enabling more home-keeping friends to
+       share in the keen enjoyment of the scenes and adventures
+       they describe.</p>
+
+    <p class="author">THOMAS BRASSEY</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <img src="images/t_007.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="139"
+             alt="Illustration"
+             title="Illustration" />
+             <a href="images/007.gif"><br />
+        View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>&nbsp; <span class="pagenum">Page ix<a name="Page_ix"
+       id="Page_ix"></a></span></p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p class="heading">CONTENTS.</p>
+
+    <table cellspacing="0"
+           cellpadding="4"
+           border="0"
+           summary="Table of Contents">
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">CHAPTER</td>
+
+            <td>&nbsp;</td>
+
+            <td align="right">PAGE</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">I.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_I"><span class="smcap">Farewell
+            to Old England</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">1</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">II.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_II"><span class="smcap">Madeira,
+            Teneriffe, and Cape de Verde Islands</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">13</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">III.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_III"><span class="smcap">Palma to
+            Rio de Janeiro</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">33</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">IV.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><span class="smcap">Rio de
+            Janeiro</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">46</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">V.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_V"><span class="smcap">The River
+            Plate</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">67</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">VI.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><span class="smcap">Life on
+            the Pampas</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">81</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">VII.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><span class="smcap">More
+            about the Argentine Republic</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">97</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">VIII.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><span class="smcap">River
+            Plate to Sandy Point, Straits of
+            Magellan</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">111</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">IX.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><span class="smcap">Sandy
+            Point to Lota Bay</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">134</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">X.</td>
+
+            <td>
+            <a href="#CHAPTER_X"><span class="smcap">Chili</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">155</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XI.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XI"><span class="smcap">Santiago
+            and Valparaiso</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">177</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XII.</td>
+
+            <td>
+            <a href="#CHAPTER_XII"><span class="smcap">Valparaiso
+            to Tahiti</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">194</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XIII.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII"><span class="smcap">The
+            South Sea Islands</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">211</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XIV.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV"><span class="smcap">At
+            Tahiti</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">227</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XV.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XV"><span class="smcap">Tahiti to
+            Sandwich Islands&mdash;Kilauea by Day and by
+            Night</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">265</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XVI.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI"><span class="smcap">Hawaiian
+            Sports</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">275</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XVII.</td>
+
+            <td>
+            <a href="#CHAPTER_XVII"><span class="smcap">Honolulu&mdash;Departure
+            for Japan</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">291</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XVIII.</td>
+
+            <td>
+            <a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII"><span class="smcap">Honolulu
+            to Yokohama</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">303</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XIX.</td>
+
+            <td>
+            <a href="#CHAPTER_XIX"><span class="smcap">Yokohama</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">316</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XX.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XX"><span class="smcap">Kioto,
+            late Miaco</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">333</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XXI.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI"><span class="smcap">The
+            Inland Sea</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">353</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XXII.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII"><span class="smcap">To
+            Canton up the Pearl River</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">376</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XXIII.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII"><span class="smcap">From
+            Macao to Singapore</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">392</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XXIV.</td>
+
+            <td>
+            <a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV"><span class="smcap">Singapore</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">408</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XXV.</td>
+
+            <td>
+            <a href="#CHAPTER_XXV"><span class="smcap">Ceylon</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">426</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XXVI.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI"><span class="smcap">To
+            Aden</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">443</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XXVII.</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII"><span class="smcap">Via
+            Suez Canal</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">456</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">XXVIII.</td>
+
+            <td>
+            <a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII"><span class="smcap">'Home'</span></a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">473</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="right">&nbsp;</td>
+
+            <td><a href="#APPENDIX">APPENDIX</a></td>
+
+            <td align="right">489</td>
+        </tr>
+    </table>
+
+    <p class="heading"><i>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</i></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><i>WOODCUTS IN TEXT.</i></p>
+
+    <table cellspacing="0"
+           cellpadding="4"
+           border="0"
+           summary="List of Illustrations">
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#title-page">Cape
+            Brassey: Smyth's Sound</a></span></td>
+
+            <td><i>Title-page</i></td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_004">Portrait
+            of the Author</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">v</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_016">Sunset on
+            Southampton Water</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">1</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_020">Nearly
+            Overboard</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">5</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_024">The
+            Derelict 'Carolina' laden with Port
+            Wine</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">9</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_028">Our First
+            View of Madeira</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">13</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_032">Madeira
+            Fish-carrier</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">17</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_037">A Cozy
+            Corner</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">22</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_046">A
+            Palm-tree in a Garden, Orotava,
+            Teneriffe</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">31</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_052">Tarafal
+            Bay, St. Antonio</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">37</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_054">Father
+            Neptune</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">39</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_055">His Doctor
+            (Crossing the Line)</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">40</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_056">Lulu and
+            her Puppies</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">41</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>
+            <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_057">Vespers</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">42</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_061">Botafogo
+            Bay</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">46</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_071">The Slave
+            Village, Fazenda, Santa Anna</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">56</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_082">The Three
+            Navigators</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">67</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_092">Prairie
+            Dogs and Owls</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">77</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_099">Devil's
+            Horns</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">84</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_102">La
+            Calera</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">87</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_119">Indians at
+            Azul</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">104</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_121">Lassoing
+            Horses</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">106</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>
+            <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_127">'Monkshaven'
+            on Fire</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">112</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>
+            <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_130">Shipwrecked
+            Crew coming on Board</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">115</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_142">Fuegian
+            Weapons</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">127</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_144">Fuegian
+            Bow and Arrows</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">129</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_146">Pin for
+            fastening Cloak, Made from a Dollar beaten
+            out</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">131</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_147">Fuegian
+            Boat and Oars</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">132</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_150">Bartering
+            with Fuegians</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">135</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_152">Thornton
+            Peaks</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">137</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_154">Glaciers,
+            Snowy Sound</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">139</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_159">Unfit
+            Bay</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">144</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_160">Two-peaked
+            Mountain</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">145</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_162">Indian
+            Reach</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">147</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_168">Catching
+            Cape-Pigeons in the Gulf of
+            Pe&ntilde;as</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">153</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_179">Chilians
+            waiting for the Train</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">164</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_182">A Fellow
+            Passenger</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">167</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_186">Baths of
+            Cauquenes</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">171</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_188">Up the
+            Valley towards the Andes</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">173</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_189">Cacti of
+            the Cordillera</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">174</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_190">Huasso
+            Huts</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">175</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_191">Huasso of
+            Chili</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">176</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_192">Morning
+            Mass at Santiago</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">177</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_196">What makes
+            Horses go in Chili</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">181</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_210">Juvenile
+            Scrubbers</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">195</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>
+            <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_212">Conversation
+            at Sea</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">197</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>
+            <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_219">Inscription
+            from Easter Island</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">204</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>
+            <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_223">Tatakotoroa or
+            Clarke Island</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">208</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_224">Going up
+            the Mast in a Chair</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">209</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_225">Children
+            looking up</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">209</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_229">Our First
+            Landing in the South Pacific, Hao or Bow
+            Island</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">214</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>
+            <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_235">Maitea</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">220</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>
+            <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_235">Maitea</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">220</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_236">Maitean
+            Boatman</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">221</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_241">Quarantine
+            Island, Papeete</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">226</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_242">Under the
+            Trees, Papeete</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">227</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>
+            <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_244">Ch&aelig;todon
+            Tricolor</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">229</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>
+            <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_247">Ch&aelig;todon
+            Plagmance</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">232</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_250">Waterfall
+            at Faataua</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">235</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_262">A Tahitian
+            Lady</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">247</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_266">Tropic
+            Feathers</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">251</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>
+            <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_268">Ch&aelig;todon
+            Besantii</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">253</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_271">Tattoo in
+            the Tropics</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">256</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_294">Feather
+            Necklace</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">279</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_298">War
+            Necklace</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">283</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_299">Ancient
+            War Masks and Costumes from the Museum at
+            Honolulu</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">284</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_302">Chalcedon
+            Imperator</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">287</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_309">Feathered
+            Cloak and Helmets</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">294</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_310">The
+            Pali-Oahu</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">295</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_316">Zeus
+            Ciliaris</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">301</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_323">Amateur
+            Navigation</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">308</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_328">Little
+            Redcap</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">313</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_330">Japanese
+            Boats</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">315</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_331">Fujiyama,
+            Japan</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">316</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_342">A Drag
+            across the Sand in a Jinrikisha</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">327</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_343">Inoshima
+            by a Japanese Artist</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">328</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_344">Japanese
+            Boatman</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">329</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_345">Facsimile
+            of our Luncheon Bill</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">330</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_353">A Family
+            Group</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">338</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_364">Wayside
+            Travellers</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">349</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_372">Arrima.
+            The Village of Bamboo Basket Work</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">357</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_375">The Yacht
+            on Fire</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">360</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_378">Yoken San
+            or Sacred Mountain, Inland Sea</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">363</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_379">Hurusima,
+            Inland Sea</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">364</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_386">How we
+            were boarded by Chinese and dispersed
+            them</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">371</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_392">Chinese
+            Visiting Cards</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">377</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_394">Pearl
+            River</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">379</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_396">Bogue
+            Forts</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">381</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_397">Chinese
+            Pagoda and Boats</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">382</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_404">The French
+            Consulate, Canton</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">389</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_413">Chinese
+            Foot and Boot</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">398</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_429">Maharajah
+            of Johore's House</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">414</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_432">The Pet
+            Manis</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">417</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>
+            <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_434">Malacca</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">419</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_438">How the
+            Journal was written</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">423</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_454">Peacock
+            Mountain, Ceylon</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">439</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_466">Soumali
+            Indian, Aden</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">451</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_472">Straits of
+            Bab-el-Mandeb</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">457</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_477">Beating up
+            the Red Sea</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">462</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_488">Homeward
+            Bound</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">473</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_490">Faldetta,
+            Malta</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">475</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_492">Armoury in
+            the Governor's Palace, Valetta</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">477</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>
+            <span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_497">Tangier</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">482</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_499">Vasco da
+            Gama</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">484</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_500">Belem
+            Cloister Gardens</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">485</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_502">Our
+            Welcome back off Hastings</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">487</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Illus_503">Home at
+            Last</a></span></td>
+
+            <td align="right">488</td>
+        </tr>
+    </table>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><i>NOTE.</i></p>
+
+    <p>I have to thank Mr. W. Simpson, author of 'Meeting the Sun,'
+    for the passages given on pages 341 to 343 referring to the
+    Japanese temples and their priesthood.</p>
+
+    <p>The vessel which has carried us so rapidly and safely round
+    the globe claims a brief description. She was designed by Mr.
+    St. Clare Byrne, of Liverpool and may be technically defined as
+    a screw composite three-masted topsail-yard schooner. The
+    engines, by Messrs. Laird, are of 70 nominal or 350 indicated
+    horse-power, and developed a speed of 10.13 knots at the
+    measured mile. The bunkers contain 80 tons of coal. The average
+    daily consumption is 4 tons, and the speed 8 knots in fine
+    weather. The principal dimensions of the hull are&mdash;length
+    for tonnage, 157 ft.; beam extreme, 27 ft. 6 in.; displacement
+    tonnage, 531 tons; area of midship section, 202 sq. ft.</p>
+
+    <p class="author">A. B.<span class="pagenum">Page
+    1<a name="Page_1"
+       id="Page_1"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_016"
+             id="Illus_016"></a> <img src="images/t_016.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="174"
+             alt="Illustration: Sunset on Southampton Water"
+             title="Illustration: Sunset on Southampton Water" /><br />
+        <b>Sunset on Southampton Water</b><br />
+        <a href="images/016.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <h2>A VOYAGE IN THE 'SUNBEAM'.</h2>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_I"
+       id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">FAREWELL TO OLD ENGLAND.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>Masts, spires, and strand receding on the
+            right</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>The glorious main
+            expanding on the bow</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>At noon on July 1st, 1876, we said good-bye to the friends
+    who had come to Chatham to see us off, and began the first
+    stage of our voyage by steaming down to Sheerness, saluting our
+    old friend the 'Duncan,' Admiral Chads's flagship, and passing
+    through a perfect fleet of craft of all kinds. There was a
+    fresh contrary wind, and the Channel was as disagreeable as
+    usual under the circumstances. Next afternoon we were off
+    Hastings, where we had intended to stop and dine and meet some
+    friends; but, unfortunately the weather was not sufficiently
+    favourable <span class="pagenum">Page 2<a name="Page_2"
+       id="Page_2"></a></span> for us to land; so we made a long
+       tack out to sea, and, in the evening, found ourselves once
+       more near the land, off Beachy Head. While becalmed off
+       Brighton, we all&mdash;children included&mdash;availed
+       ourselves of the opportunity to go overboard and have our
+       first swim, which we thoroughly enjoyed. We had steam up
+       before ten, and again proceeded on our course. It was very
+       hot, and sitting under the awning turned out to be the
+       pleasantest occupation. The contrast between the weather of
+       the two following days was very great, and afforded a
+       forcible illustration of the uncertainties, perhaps the
+       fascinations, of yachting. We steamed quietly on, past the
+       'Owers' lightship, and the crowds of yachts at Ryde, and
+       dropped anchor off Cowes at six o'clock.</p>
+
+    <p>On the morning of the 6th a light breeze sprang up, and
+    enabled us to go through the Needles with sails up and funnel
+    down, a performance of which all on board felt very proud, as
+    many yachtsmen had pronounced it to be an impossibility for our
+    vessel to beat out in so light a breeze.</p>
+
+    <p>We were forty-three on board, all told, as will be seen by
+    reference to the list I have given. We had with us, besides,
+    two dogs, three birds, and a charming Persian kitten belonging
+    to the baby. The kitten soon disappeared, and it was feared she
+    must have gone overboard down the hawse pipe. There was a faint
+    hope, however, that she might have been packed away with the
+    new sails, which had been stowed in a great hurry the day
+    before. Unhappily she was never found again, and the children
+    were inconsolable until they discovered, at Torquay, an
+    effective substitute for 'Lily.'</p>
+
+    <p>The Channel was tolerably smooth outside the Isle of Wight,
+    and during the afternoon we were able to hold on our course
+    direct for Ushant. After midnight, however, the wind worked
+    gradually round to the W.S.W., and blew directly in our teeth.
+    A terribly heavy sea got up; and, as we were making little or
+    no progress, it was decided to <span class="pagenum">Page
+    3<a name="Page_3"
+       id="Page_3"></a></span>put in to Torquay or Dartmouth, and
+       there await a change. We anchored in Torbay, about half a
+       mile from the pier, at 8.30 a.m., and soon afterwards went
+       ashore to bathe. We found, however, that the high rocks
+       which surround the snug little bathing cove made the water
+       as cold as ice.</p>
+
+    <p>Nothing more having been heard of our poor little kitten, we
+    can only conclude that she has gone overboard. Just as we were
+    leaving the railway-station, however, we saw a small white
+    kitten with a blue ribbon round its neck; and all the children
+    at once exclaimed, 'There's our Lily!' We made inquiries, and
+    found that it belonged to the young woman at the refreshment
+    room, who, after some demur, allowed us to take it away with
+    us, in compliance with Muriel's anxious wish, expressed on her
+    face.</p>
+
+    <p>About ten o'clock we got under way, but lay-to for
+    breakfast. We then had a regular beat of it down
+    Channel&mdash;everybody being ill. We formed a
+    melancholy-looking little row down the lee side of the ship,
+    though I must say that we were quite as cheery as might have
+    been expected under the circumstances. It was bright and sunny
+    overhead, which made things more bearable.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, July 9th</i>.&mdash;A calm at 2 a.m. Orders were
+    given to get up steam; but the new coals from Chatham were slow
+    to light, though good to keep up steam when once fairly
+    kindled. For four long hours, therefore, we lolloped about in
+    the trough of a heavy sea, the sails flapping as the vessel
+    rolled. By the time the steam was up so was the breeze&mdash;a
+    contrary one, of course. We accordingly steamed and sailed all
+    day, taking more water on board, though not really in any great
+    quantity, than I had ever seen the good ship do before. She
+    carries a larger supply of coal and other stores than usual,
+    and no doubt the square yards on the foremast make her pitch
+    more heavily. We were all very sorry for ourselves, and
+    'church,' postponed from eleven until four o'clock, brought
+    together but a small congregation.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 4<a name="Page_4"
+       id="Page_4"></a></span> On the 8th we were fairly away from
+       Old England, and on the next day off Ushant, which we
+       rounded at about 4.30 p.m., at the distance of a mile and a
+       half; the sea was tremendous, the waves breaking in columns
+       of spray against the sharp needle-like rocks that form the
+       point of the island. The only excitement during the day was
+       afforded by the visit of a pilot-boat (without any fish on
+       board), whose owner was very anxious to take us into Brest,
+       'safe from the coming storm,' which he predicted. In
+       addition to our other discomforts, it now rained hard; and
+       by half-past six I think nearly all our party had made up
+       their minds that bed would be the most comfortable
+       place.</p>
+
+    <p>Two days later we sailed into lovely, bright, warm, sunny
+    weather, with a strong north-easterly breeze, a following sea,
+    and an occasional long roll from the westward. But as the sun
+    rose, the wind increased, and we got rather knocked about by
+    the sea. A good deal of water came on board, and it was
+    impossible to sit anywhere in comfort, unless lashed or firmly
+    wedged in. We were, however, going ten knots through the water,
+    on our course, under our new square head canvas; and this fact
+    made up for a good deal of discomfort.</p>
+
+    <p>The thirty extra tons of spare sails, spars, and provisions,
+    the fifteen tons of water, and the eighty-four tons of coal,
+    made a great difference in our buoyancy, and the sea came
+    popping in and out at the most unexpected places; much to the
+    delight of the children, who, with bare feet and legs, and
+    armed with mops and sponges, waged mimic war against the
+    intruder and each other, singing and dancing to their hearts'
+    content. This amusement was occasionally interrupted by a
+    heavier roll than usual, sending them all into the lee
+    scuppers, sousing them from head to foot, and necessitating a
+    thorough change of clothing, despite their urgent protest that
+    sea-water never hurt anybody.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 5<a name="Page_5"
+       id="Page_5"></a></span> After our five o'clock dinner,
+       however, we very nearly met with a most serious accident. We
+       were all sitting or standing about the stern of the vessel,
+       admiring the magnificent dark blue billows following us,
+       with their curling white crests, mountains high. Each wave,
+       as it approached, appeared as if it must overwhelm us,
+       instead of which, it rushed grandly by, rolling and shaking
+       us from stem to stern, and sending fountains of spray on
+       board.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_020"
+             id="Illus_020"></a> <img src="images/t_020.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="196"
+             alt="Illustration: Nearly Overboard"
+             title="Illustration: Nearly Overboard" /><br />
+        <b>Nearly Overboard</b><br />
+        <a href="images/020.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Tom was looking at the stern compass, Allnutt being close to
+    him. Mr. Bingham and Mr. Freer were smoking, half-way between
+    the quarter-deck and the after-companion, where Captain Brown,
+    Dr. Potter, Muriel, and I, were standing. Captain Lecky, seated
+    on a large coil of rope, placed on the box of the rudder, was
+    spinning Mabelle a yarn. A new hand was steering, and just at
+    the moment when an unusually big wave overtook us, he
+    unfortunately allowed the vessel to broach-to a little. In a
+    second the sea came pouring over <span class="pagenum">Page
+    6<a name="Page_6"
+       id="Page_6"></a></span>the stern, above Allnutt's head. The
+       boy was nearly washed overboard, but he managed to catch
+       hold of the rail, and, with great presence of mind, stuck
+       his knees into the bulwarks. Kindred, our boatswain, seeing
+       his danger, rushed forward to save him, but was knocked down
+       by the return wave, from which he emerged gasping. The coil
+       of rope, on which Captain Lecky and Mabelle were seated, was
+       completely floated by the sea. Providentially, however, he
+       had taken a double turn round his wrist with a reefing
+       point, and, throwing his other arm round Mabelle, held on
+       like grim death; otherwise nothing could have saved them.
+       She was perfectly self-possessed, and only said quietly,
+       'Hold on, Captain Lecky, hold on!' to which he replied, 'All
+       right.' I asked her afterwards if she thought she was going
+       overboard, and she answered, 'I did not <i>think</i> at all,
+       mamma, but felt sure we were gone.' Captain Lecky, being
+       accustomed to very large ships, had not in the least
+       realised how near we were to the water in our little vessel,
+       and was proportionately taken by surprise. All the rest of
+       the party were drenched, with the exception of Muriel, whom
+       Captain Brown held high above the water in his arms, and who
+       lost no time in remarking, in the midst of the general
+       confusion, 'I'm not at all wet, I'm not.' Happily, the
+       children don't know what fear is. The maids, however, were
+       very frightened, as some of the sea had got down into the
+       nursery, and the skylights had to be screwed down. Our
+       studding-sail boom, too, broke with a loud crack when the
+       ship broached-to, and the jaws of the fore-boom gave
+       way.</p>
+
+    <p>Soon after this adventure we all went to bed, full of
+    thankfulness that it had ended as well as it did; but, alas,
+    not, so far as I was concerned, to rest in peace. In about two
+    hours I was awakened by a tremendous weight of water suddenly
+    descending upon me and flooding the bed. I immediately sprang
+    out, only to find myself in another pool on the floor. It was
+    pitch dark, and I could <span class="pagenum">Page
+    7<a name="Page_7"
+       id="Page_7"></a></span>not think what had happened; so I
+       rushed on deck, and found that, the weather having moderated
+       a little, some kind sailor, knowing my love of fresh air,
+       had opened the skylight rather too soon; and one of the
+       angry waves had popped on board, deluging the cabin.</p>
+
+    <p>I got a light, and proceeded to mop up, as best I could, and
+    then endeavoured to find a dry place to sleep in. This,
+    however, was no easy task, for my own bed was drenched, and
+    every other berth occupied. The deck, too, was ankle-deep in
+    water, as I found when I tried to get across to the deck-house
+    sofa. At last I lay down on the floor, wrapped up in my ulster,
+    and wedged between the foot stanchion of our swing bed and the
+    wardrobe athwart-ship; so that as the yacht rolled heavily, my
+    feet were often higher than my head. Consequently, what sleep I
+    snatched turned into nightmare, of which the fixed idea was a
+    broken head from the three hundredweight of lead at the bottom
+    of our bed, swinging wildly from side to side and up and down,
+    as the vessel rolled and pitched, suggesting all manner of
+    accidents. When morning came at last, the weather cleared a
+    good deal, though the breeze continued. All hands were soon
+    busily employed in repairing damages; and very picturesque the
+    deck and rigging of the 'Sunbeam' looked, with the various
+    groups of men, occupied upon the ropes, spars, and sails.
+    Towards evening the wind fell light, and we had to get up
+    steam. The night was the first really warm one we had enjoyed,
+    and the stars shone out brightly. The sea, which had been of a
+    lovely blue colour during the day, showed a slight
+    phosphorescence after dark.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, July 13th</i>.&mdash;When I went on deck, at
+    half-past six, I found a grey, steamy, calm morning, promising
+    a very hot day, without wind.</p>
+
+    <p>About 10.30 a.m., the cry of 'Sail on the port beam!' caused
+    general excitement, and in a few minutes every telescope and
+    glass in the ship had been brought to bear
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 8<a name="Page_8"
+       id="Page_8"></a></span> upon the object which attracted our
+       attention, and which was soon pronounced to be a wreck.
+       Orders were given to starboard the helm, and to steer direct
+       for the vessel; and many were the conjectures hazarded, and
+       the questions asked of the fortunate holders of glasses.
+       'What is she?' 'Is there any one on board?' 'Where does she
+       come from?' 'Can you read her name?' 'Does she look as if
+       she had been long abandoned?' Soon we were near enough to
+       send a boat's crew on board, whilst we watched their
+       movements anxiously from the bridge. We could now read her
+       name&mdash;the 'Carolina'&mdash;surmounted by a gorgeous
+       yellow decoration on her stern. She was of between two and
+       three hundred tons burden, and was painted a light blue,
+       with a red streak. Beneath her white bowsprit the gaudy
+       image of a woman served as a figure-head. The two masts had
+       been snapped short off about three feet from the deck, and
+       the bulwarks were gone, only the covering board and
+       stanchions remaining, so that each wave washed over and
+       through her. The roof and supports of the deck-house and the
+       companions were still left standing, but the sides had
+       disappeared, and the ship's deck was burst up in such a
+       manner as to remind one of a quail's back.</p>
+
+    <p>We saw the men on board poking about, apparently very
+    pleased with what they had found; and soon our boat returned to
+    the yacht for some breakers<a name="FNanchor_1_1"
+       id="FNanchor_1_1">,</a><a href="#Footnote_1_1"
+       class="fnanchor">[1]</a> as the 'Carolina' had been laden
+       with port wine and cork, and the men wished to bring some of
+       the former on board. I changed my dress, and, putting on my
+       sea boots, started for the wreck.</p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_1_1"
+           id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">
+        [1]</span></a> Small casks, used for carrying water in
+        boats, frequently spelt <i>barricos</i>, evidently from the
+        time of the old Spanish navigators.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_024"
+             id="Illus_024"></a> <img src="images/t_024.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="165"
+             alt="Illustration: The Derelict 'Carolina' laden with Port Wine"
+             title="Illustration: The Derelict 'Carolina' laden with Port Wine" />
+        <br />
+         <b>The Derelict 'Carolina' laden with Port Wine</b><br />
+        <a href="images/024.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We found the men rather excited over their discovery. The
+    wine must have been <i>very</i> new and <i>very</i> strong, for
+    the smell from it, as it slopped about all over the deck, was
+    almost enough to intoxicate anybody. One pipe had already been
+    emptied into the breakers and barrels, and
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 9<a name="Page_9"
+       id="Page_9"></a></span> great efforts were made to get some
+       of the casks out whole; but this was found to be impossible,
+       without devoting more time to the operation than we chose to
+       spare. The men managed to remove three half-empty casks with
+       their heads stove in, which they threw overboard, but the
+       full ones would have required special appliances to raise
+       them through the hatches. It proved exceedingly difficult to
+       get at the wine, which was stowed underneath the cork, and
+       there was also a quantity of cabin bulkheads and fittings
+       floating about, under the influence of the long swell of the
+       Atlantic. It was a curious sight, standing on the roof of
+       the deck-house, to look into the hold, full of floating
+       bales of cork, barrels, and pieces of wood, and to watch the
+       sea surging up in every direction, through and over the
+       deck, which was level with the water's edge. I saw an
+       excellent modern iron cooking-stove washing about from side
+       to side; but almost every other moveable article, including
+       spars and ropes, had apparently been removed by previous
+       boarders. <span class="pagenum">Page 10<a name="Page_10"
+       id="Page_10"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>It would have delayed us too long to tow the vessel into the
+    nearest port, 375 miles distant, or we might have claimed the
+    salvage money, estimated by the experts at 1,500<i>l</i>. She
+    was too low in the water for it to be possible for us, with our
+    limited appliances, to blow her up; so we were obliged to leave
+    her floating about as a derelict, a fertile source of danger to
+    all ships crossing her track. With her buoyant cargo, and with
+    the trade winds slowly wafting her to smoother seas, it may
+    probably be some years before she breaks up. I only hope that
+    no good ship may run full speed on to her, some dark night, for
+    the 'Carolina' would prove almost as formidable an obstacle as
+    a sunken rock.</p>
+
+    <p>Tom was now signalling for us to go on board again, and for
+    a few minutes I was rather afraid we should have had a little
+    trouble in getting the men off, as their excitement had not
+    decreased; but after a trifling delay and some rather rough
+    play amongst themselves, they became steady again, and we
+    returned to the yacht with our various prizes.</p>
+
+    <p>A 'Mother Carey's chicken' hovered round the wreck while we
+    were on board, and followed us to the 'Sunbeam;' and although a
+    flat calm and a heavy swell prevailed at the time, we all
+    looked upon our visitor as the harbinger of a breeze. In this
+    instance, at least, the well-known sailor's superstition was
+    justified; for, before the evening, the wind sprang up, and
+    'fires out and sails up' was the order of the day. We were soon
+    bowling merrily along at the rate of seven knots an hour, while
+    a clear starlight night and a heavy dew gave promise of a fine
+    morrow.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, July 14th</i>.&mdash;We still have a light wind,
+    right aft, accompanied by a heavy roll from the westward, which
+    makes it impossible to sit anywhere with comfort, and difficult
+    even to read. By 6 a.m. the sun had become very powerful,
+    though its heat was tempered by the breeze,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 11<a name="Page_11"
+       id="Page_11"></a></span>which gradually increased throughout
+       the day, until, having set all our fore-and-aft canvas, as
+       well as our square sails, we glided steadily along, in
+       delightful contrast to the uneasy motion of the morning, and
+       of the past few days. Under the awning&mdash;with the most
+       heavenly blue sky above, and the still darker clear blue sea
+       beneath, stretching away in gentle ripples as far as the eye
+       could reach&mdash;it was simply perfect.</p>
+
+    <p>Our little party get on extremely well together, though a
+    week ago they were strangers to each other. We are all so busy
+    that we do not see much of one another except at meals, and
+    then we have plenty to talk about. Captain Lecky imparts to us
+    some of his valuable information about scientific navigation
+    and the law of storms, and he and Tom and Captain Brown work
+    hard at these subjects. Mr. Freer follows in the same path; Mr.
+    Bingham draws and reads; Dr. Potter helps me to teach the
+    children, who, I am happy to say, are as well as possible. I
+    read and write a great deal, and learn Spanish, so that the
+    days are all too short for what we have to do. The servants are
+    settling down well into their places, and the commissariat
+    department does great credit to the cooks and stewards. The
+    maids get on satisfactorily, but are a little nervous on rough
+    nights. We hope not to have many more just at present, for we
+    are now approaching calmer latitudes.</p>
+
+    <p>In the course of the day, whilst Tom and I were sitting in
+    the stern, the man at the wheel suddenly exclaimed, 'There's
+    land on the port bow.' We knew, from the distance we had run,
+    that this could not be the case, and after looking at it
+    through the glasses, Tom pronounced the supposed land to be a
+    thick wall of fog, advancing towards us <i>against</i> the
+    wind. Captain Brown and Captain Lecky came from below, and
+    hastened to get in the studding-sails, in anticipation of the
+    coming squall. In a few minutes we had lost our fair breeze and
+    brilliant sunshine, all our sails <span class="pagenum">Page
+    12<a name="Page_12"
+       id="Page_12"></a></span>were taken flat aback, and we found
+       ourselves enveloped in a dense fog, which made it impossible
+       for us to see the length of the vessel. It was an
+       extraordinary phenomenon. Captain Lecky, who, in the course
+       of his many voyages, has passed within a few miles of this
+       exact spot more than a hundred and fifty times, had never
+       seen anything in the least like it. As night came on the fog
+       increased, and the boats were prepared ready for lowering.
+       Two men went to the wheel, and two to the bows to look out,
+       while an officer was stationed on the bridge with
+       steam-whistle and bell ready for an emergency; so that, in
+       case we ran into anything, or anything ran into us, we
+       should at least have the satisfaction of knowing that, so
+       far as we were concerned, it had all been done strictly
+       according to Act of Parliament.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, July 15th</i>.&mdash;Between midnight and 4
+    a.m. the fog disappeared, as suddenly as it had come on. We
+    must have passed through a wide belt of it. At 5.30 a.m., when
+    Tom called me to see a steamer go by, it was quite clear. The
+    vessel was the 'Roman,' and she passed so close to us that we
+    made our number, and exchanged salutations with the officers on
+    the bridge.</p>
+
+    <p>Towards the afternoon a nice breeze sprang up, and we were
+    able to bank fires and sail.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 13<a name="Page_13"
+       id="Page_13"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_II"
+       id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">MADEIRA, TENERIFFE, AND CAPE DE VERDE
+    ISLANDS.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>Full many a green isle needs must
+            be</i><br /></span> <span><i>In this wide sea of
+            misery</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Or the mariner worn
+            and wan</i><br /></span> <span><i>Never thus could
+            voyage on</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_028"
+             id="Illus_028"></a> <img src="images/t_028.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="158"
+             alt="Illustration: Our First View of Madeira"
+             title="Illustration: Our First View of Madeira" /><br />
+        <b>Our First View of Madeira</b><br />
+        <a href="images/028.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, July 16th</i>.&mdash;Porto Santo being visible on
+    the port bow, a quarter of a mile ahead, by 3.55 a.m. this
+    morning, our three navigators congratulated themselves and each
+    other on the good land-fall they had made.</p>
+
+    <p>It looks a curious little island, and is situated about
+    thirty-five miles north-east of Madeira, with a high peak in
+    the centre, of which we could only see the extreme point,
+    appearing above the clouds.</p>
+
+    <p>It is interesting to know that it was from his observation
+    of the drift-wood and d&eacute;bris washed on to the eastern
+    shore that Columbus, who had married the daughter of the
+    Governor of Porto Santo, derived his first impressions of the
+    existence of the New World. Here it was that he first realised
+    there might possibly be a large and unknown country to the
+    westward; here it was that he first conceived
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 14<a name="Page_14"
+       id="Page_14"></a></span> the project of exploring the
+       hitherto unknown ocean and of discovering what new countries
+       might bound its western shores.</p>
+
+    <p>An hour later we saw Fora and its light, at the extreme east
+    of Madeira, and could soon distinguish the mountains in the
+    centre of the latter island. As we rapidly approached the land,
+    the beauty of the scenery became more fully apparent. A mass of
+    dark purple volcanic rocks, clothed on the top with the richest
+    vegetation, with patches of all sorts of colour on their sides,
+    rises boldly from the sea. There are several small detached
+    rocks, and one curious pointed little island, with an arch
+    right through the middle of it, rather like the Perc&eacute;
+    Rock on the coast of Nova Scotia. We steamed slowly along the
+    east coast, passing many pretty hamlets, nestled in bays or
+    perched on the side of the hills, and observing how every
+    possible nook and corner seemed to be terraced and cultivated.
+    Sugar-canes, Indian corn, vines, and many varieties of tropical
+    and semi-tropical plants, grow luxuriantly in this lovely
+    climate. Nearly all the cottages in the island are inhabited by
+    a simple people, many of whom have never left their native
+    villages, even to look at the magnificent view from the top of
+    the surrounding mountains, or to gaze on the sea, by which they
+    are encompassed.</p>
+
+    <p>We dropped our anchor in the bay of Funchal at about twelve
+    o'clock, and before breakfast was over found ourselves
+    surrounded by a perfect flotilla of boats, though none of them
+    dared approach very near until the health-officer had come
+    alongside and pronounced us free from infection. At this moment
+    all are complaining much of the heat, which since yesterday has
+    been very great, and is caused by the wind called 'Este,'
+    blowing direct from the African deserts. It was 79&deg; in the
+    coolest place on board, and 84&deg; on shore in the shade, in
+    the middle of the day.</p>
+
+    <p>The African mail steamer, 'Ethiopia,' last from Bonny, West
+    Coast of Africa, whence she arrived the day before
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 15<a name="Page_15"
+       id="Page_15"></a></span> yesterday, was lying in the bay,
+       and the children went on board with some of our party to see
+       her cargo of monkeys, parrots, and pineapples. The result
+       was an importation of five parrots on board the 'Sunbeam;'
+       but the monkeys were too big for us. Captain Dane, who paid
+       us a return visit, said that the temperature here appeared
+       quite cool to him, as for the last few weeks his thermometer
+       had varied from 82&deg; to 96&deg; in the shade.</p>
+
+    <p>We had service at 4 p.m., and at 5 p.m. went ashore in a
+    native boat, furnished with bilge pieces, to keep her straight
+    when beached, and to avoid the surf, for it was too rough for
+    our own boats. At the water's edge a curious sort of double
+    sleigh, drawn by two oxen, was waiting. Into this we stepped,
+    setting off with considerable rapidity up the steep shingly
+    beach, under a beautiful row of trees, to the 'Pra&ccedil;a,'
+    where the greater portion of the population were walking up and
+    down, or sitting under the shade of the magnolias. These plants
+    here attain the size of forest-trees, and their large white
+    wax-like flowers shed a most delightful fragrance on the
+    evening air. There were graceful pepper vines too, and a great
+    variety of trees only known to us in England in the form of
+    small shrubs. This being a festival day, the streets were
+    crowded with people from town and country, in their holiday
+    attire. The door-posts and balconies of the houses were
+    wreathed with flowers, the designs in many cases being very
+    pretty. One arcade in particular was quite lovely, with arches
+    made of double red geranium, mixed with the feathery-looking
+    pepper leaves, while the uprights were covered with amaryllis
+    and white arum lilies. The streets were strewn with roses and
+    branches of myrtle, which, bruised by the feet of the
+    passers-by and the runners of the bullock sleigh, emitted a
+    delicious aromatic odour.</p>
+
+    <p>The trellises in the gardens seem overgrown with
+    stephanotis, mauve and purple passion-flowers, and all kinds of
+    rare creepers, the purple and white hibiscus shoots up
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 16<a name="Page_16"
+       id="Page_16"></a></span>some fourteen to sixteen feet in
+       height; bananas, full of fruit and flower, strelitzias,
+       heliotrope, geraniums, and pelargoniums, bloom all around in
+       large shrubs, mixed with palms and mimosas of every variety;
+       and the whole formed such an enchanting picture that we were
+       loth to tear ourselves away.</p>
+
+    <p>A ride of about twenty minutes in the bullock sleigh, up a
+    steep hill, by the side of a rocky torrent, whose banks were
+    overgrown with caladiums and vines, brought us to our
+    destination, Til, whence we had a splendid view of the town and
+    bay stretching beneath us. During the ascent we passed several
+    cottages, whose inhabitants stood airing themselves on the
+    threshold after the great heat of the day, and through the open
+    doorways we occasionally got a peep into the gardens beyond,
+    full of bright flowers and luxuriant with vines, fig-trees, and
+    bananas. As we sat in the terrace garden at Til we enjoyed the
+    sweet scent of the flowers we could no longer see, and listened
+    to the cool splash of the water in the fountain below; whilst
+    Allnutt, with unceasing energy, searched amongst the bushes for
+    moths, of which he found a large number.</p>
+
+    <p>We jogged down the hill a great deal faster than we had come
+    up, stopping only for a short time in the now more than ever
+    crowded 'Pra&ccedil;a,' to listen to one or two airs played by
+    the Portuguese band, before we got back to the yacht at about
+    half-past ten.</p>
+
+    <p>Next morning we were off to the fish-market by seven
+    o'clock, but it was not a good time for our visit, as there had
+    been no moon on the previous night; and, though there were fish
+    of various kinds, saw nothing specially worthy of notice. The
+    picturesque costumes of the people were, however, interesting.
+    We afterwards went to the fruit-market, though it was not
+    specially worth seeing, for most of the fruit and vegetables
+    are brought in boats from villages on the sea-shore; and, as it
+    is necessary to wait until the sea-breeze springs up, they do
+    not arrive until <span class="pagenum">Page 17<a name="Page_17"
+       id="Page_17"></a></span>midday. After our walk the children
+       and I went down to the beach and bathed, taking care not to
+       go too far out on account of the sharks, of which we had
+       been warned. We undressed and dressed in tents, not unlike
+       clothes-horses, with a bit of matting thrown over them, in
+       which the heat was intense. The beach is very steep; and as
+       one gets out of one's depth immediately, indifferent
+       swimmers put on a couple of bladders&mdash;which stick out
+       behind their backs and produce a strange effect&mdash;or
+       else take a bathing-man into the water with them. I
+       preferred the latter course; and we all had a pleasant
+       bathe.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_032"
+             id="Illus_032"></a> <img src="images/t_032.jpg"
+             width="231"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Fish Carrier"
+             title="Illustration: Fish Carrier" /><br />
+        <b>Fish Carrier</b><br />
+        <a href="images/032.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The natives seem almost amphibious in their habits, and the
+    yacht is surrounded all day by boats full of small boys, who
+    will dive to any depth for sixpence, a dozen of them
+    spluttering and fighting for the coin in the water at the same
+    time. They will go down on one side of the yacht too, and bob
+    up on the other, almost before you have time to run across the
+    deck to witness their reappearance. <span class="pagenum">Page
+    18<a name="Page_18"
+       id="Page_18"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>The Loo Rock, with its old fortress, close to our anchorage,
+    forms a picturesque object; and the scene from the yacht,
+    enlivened by the presence of numerous market-boats, laden with
+    fruit and vegetables, is very pretty. We lie about 150 yards
+    from the shore, just under Mr. Danero's quinta. The cliff just
+    here is overhung with bougainvill&aelig;as, geraniums,
+    fuchsias, aloes, prickly pears, and other flowers, which grow
+    luxuriantly quite down to the water's edge, wherever they can
+    contrive to find a root-hold.</p>
+
+    <p>After five o'clock tea we rode up the Mount and through the
+    woods on horseback, along a road gay with masses of wild
+    geranium, hydrangea, amaryllis, and fuchsia. We dismounted at a
+    lovely place, which contains a large number of rare trees and
+    plants, brought from all parts of the world. Here were enormous
+    camellias, as well as purple, red, and white azaleas, Guernsey
+    lilies, all growing in the greatest profusion.</p>
+
+    <p>Our descent of the Mount, by means of a form of conveyance
+    commonly used on the island, was very amusing. At the summit we
+    found basket-work sleighs, each constructed to hold two people,
+    and attended by a couple of men, lashed together. Into these we
+    stepped, and were immediately pushed down the hill at a
+    tremendous pace. The gliding motion is delightful, and was
+    altogether a novelty to us. The men manage the sleighs with
+    great skill, steering them in the most wonderful manner round
+    the sharp angles in the zigzag road, and making use of their
+    bare feet as brakes when necessary. The turns were occasionally
+    so abrupt, that it seemed almost impossible that we could avoid
+    being upset; but we reached the bottom quite safely. The
+    children were especially delighted with the trip, and indeed we
+    all enjoyed it immensely. The only danger is the risk of fire
+    from the friction of the steel runners against the gravel
+    road.</p>
+
+    <p>After paying a visit to Mr. and Mrs. Blandy, whose house is
+    beautifully situated, we dined at the hotel, and
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 19<a name="Page_19"
+       id="Page_19"></a></span>afterwards sat in the lovely
+       semi-tropical garden until it was time to go on board to
+       bed.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, July 18th</i>.&mdash;We were called at 4.30
+    a.m., and went ashore soon after six to meet some friends, with
+    whom we had arranged to ride up to the Gran Corral, and to
+    breakfast there, 5,000 feet above the level of the sea.</p>
+
+    <p>It soon became evident that the time we had selected for
+    landing was the fashionable bathing hour. In fact, it required
+    some skill on our part to keep the boat clear of the crowds of
+    people of both sexes and all ages, who were taking their
+    morning dip. It was most absurd to see entire families, from
+    the bald-headed and spectacled grandfather to the baby who
+    could scarcely walk, all disporting themselves in the water
+    together, many of them supported by the very inelegant-looking
+    bladders I have mentioned. There was a little delay in mounting
+    our horses, under the shade of the fig-trees; but when we were
+    once off, a party of eleven, the cavalcade became quite
+    formidable. As we clattered up the paved streets, between
+    vineyard and garden walls, 'curiosity opened her lattice,' on
+    more than one occasion, to ascertain the cause of the unwonted
+    commotion. The views on our way, as we sometimes climbed a
+    steep ascent or descended a deep ravine, were very varied, but
+    always beautiful. About half-way up we stopped to rest under a
+    delightful trellis of vines, by the side of a rushing mountain
+    stream, bordered with ferns; then, leaving the vineyards and
+    gardens behind us, we passed through forests of shady Spanish
+    chestnut trees, beneath which stretched the luxurious
+    greensward.</p>
+
+    <p>At ten o'clock we quitted this grateful shade, and arrived
+    at the neck of the pass, facing the Gran Corral, where we had
+    to make our choice of ascending a conical hill, on our left, or
+    the Torrinhas Peak, on our right. The latter was chosen, as
+    promising the better view, although it
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 20<a name="Page_20"
+       id="Page_20"></a></span>was rather farther off, so we were
+       accordingly seized upon by some of the crowd of peasants who
+       surrounded us, and who at once proceeded to push and pull us
+       up a steep slippery grass slope, interspersed with large
+       boulders. The view from the top, looking down a sheer
+       precipice of some 1,500 feet in depth into the valley below,
+       was lovely. Quite at the bottom, amid the numerous ravines
+       and small spurs of rocks by which the valley is intersected,
+       we could distinguish some small patches of cultivated
+       ground. Above our heads towered the jagged crests of the
+       highest peaks, Pico Ruivo and others, which we had already
+       seen from the yacht, when we first sighted the island.</p>
+
+    <p>A pleasant walk over some grassy slopes, and two more hard
+    scrambles, took us to the summit of the Torrinhas Peak; but the
+    charming and extensive view towards Camara de Lobos, and the
+    bay and town of Funchal, was an ample reward for all our
+    trouble. It did not take us long to get back to the welcome
+    shade of the chestnut trees, for we were all ravenously hungry,
+    it being now eleven o'clock. But, alas! breakfast had not
+    arrived: so we had no resource but to mount our horses again
+    and ride down to meet it. Mr. Miles, of the hotel, had not kept
+    his word; he had promised that our provisions should be sent up
+    to us by nine o'clock, and it was midday before we met the men
+    carrying the hampers on their heads. There was now nothing for
+    it but to organise a picnic on the terrace of Mr. Veitch's
+    deserted villa, beneath the shade of camellia, fuchsia, myrtle,
+    magnolia, and pepper-trees, from whence we could also enjoy the
+    fine view of the fertile valley beneath us and the blue sea
+    sparkling beyond.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, July 19th</i>.&mdash;We were so tired after
+    our exertions of yesterday, that it was nine o'clock before we
+    all mustered for our morning swim, which I think we enjoyed the
+    more from the fact of our having previously been prevented by
+    the sharks, or rather by the rumour of
+    sharks.<span class="pagenum">Page 21<a name="Page_21"
+       id="Page_21"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>We were engaged to lunch at Mr. and Mrs. Blandy's, but I was
+    so weary that I did not go ashore until about six o'clock in
+    the evening, and then I went first to the English cemetery,
+    which is very prettily laid out and well kept. The various
+    paths are shaded by pepper-trees, entwined with
+    bougainvill&aelig;a, while in many places the railings are
+    completely covered by long trailing masses of stephanotis in
+    full bloom. Some of the inscriptions on the tombs are extremely
+    touching, and it is sad to see, as is almost always the case in
+    places much resorted to by invalids, how large a proportion of
+    those who lie buried here have been cut off in the very flower
+    of their youth. Indeed, the residents at Madeira complain that
+    it is a melancholy drawback to the charms of this beautiful
+    island, that the friendship frequently formed between them and
+    people who come hither in search of health, is in so many cases
+    brought to an early and sad termination. Having seen and
+    admired Mrs. Foljambe's charming garden by daylight, we
+    returned on board to receive some friends. Unfortunately they
+    were not very good sailors, and, out of our party of twenty,
+    one lady had to go ashore at once, and another before dinner
+    was over.</p>
+
+    <p>They all admired the yacht very much, particularly the
+    various cozy corners in the deck-house. It was a lovely night;
+    and after the departure of our guests, at about ten o'clock, we
+    steamed out of the bay, where we found a nice light breeze,
+    which enabled us to sail.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_037"
+             id="Illus_037"></a> <img src="images/t_037.jpg"
+             width="228"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: A Cozy Corner"
+             title="Illustration: A Cozy Corner" /><br />
+        <b>A Cozy Corner</b><br />
+        <a href="images/037.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, July 20th</i>.&mdash;All to-day has been taken
+    up in arranging our photographs, journals, &amp;c. &amp;c., and
+    in preparing for our visit to Teneriffe. About twelve o'clock
+    the wind fell light and we tried fishing, but without success,
+    though several bonitos or flying-fish were seen. It was very
+    hot, and it seemed quite a relief when, at eight o'clock in the
+    evening, we began steaming, thus creating a breeze for
+    ourselves.<span class="pagenum">Page 22<a name="Page_22"
+       id="Page_22"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, July 21st</i>.&mdash;We all rose early, and were
+    full of excitement to catch the first glimpse of the famous
+    Peak of Teneriffe. There was a nice breeze from the north-east,
+    the true trade wind, we hope, which ought to carry us down
+    nearly to the Line. The morning being rather hazy, it was quite
+    ten o'clock before we saw the Peak, towering above the clouds,
+    right ahead, about fifty-nine miles off. As we approached, it
+    appeared less perpendicular than we had expected, or than it is
+    generally represented in pictures. The other mountains too, in
+    the centre of the island, from the midst of which it rises, are
+    so very lofty that, in spite of its conical sugar-loaf top, it
+    is difficult at first to realise that the Peak is 12,180 feet
+    high. <span class="pagenum">Page 23<a name="Page_23"
+       id="Page_23"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>We dropped anchor under its shadow in the harbour of Orotava
+    in preference to the capital, Santa Cruz, both on account of
+    its being a healthier place, and also in order to be nearer to
+    the Peak, which we wished to ascend.</p>
+
+    <p>The heat having made the rest of our party rather lazy,
+    Captain Lecky and I volunteered to go on shore to see the
+    Vice-Consul, Mr. Goodall, and try to make arrangements for our
+    expedition. It was only 2 p.m., and very hot work, walking
+    through the deserted streets, but luckily we had not far to go,
+    and the house was nice and cool when we got there. Mr. Goodall
+    sent off at once for a carriage, despatching a messenger also
+    to the mountains for horses and guides, which there was some
+    difficulty in obtaining at such short notice.</p>
+
+    <p>Having organised the expedition we re-embarked to dine on
+    board the yacht, and I went to bed at seven, to be called
+    again, however, at half-past ten o'clock. After a light supper,
+    we landed and went to the Vice-Consul's arriving there exactly
+    at midnight. But no horses were forthcoming, so we lay down on
+    our rugs in the patio, and endeavoured to sleep, as we knew we
+    should require all our strength for the expedition before
+    us.</p>
+
+    <p>There were sundry false alarms of a start, as the horses
+    arrived by ones and twos from the neighbouring villages,
+    accompanied by their respective owners. By two o'clock all our
+    steeds, twelve in number, had assembled, and in another quarter
+    of an hour we were leaving the town by a steep stony path,
+    bordered by low walls. There was no moon, and for the first two
+    hours it was very dark. At the end of that time we could see
+    the first glimmer of dawn, and were shortly afterwards able to
+    distinguish each other and to observe the beautiful view which
+    lay below us as we wended our way up and up between small
+    patches of cultivation. Soon we climbed above the clouds, which
+    presented a most curious appearance as we looked down upon
+    them. The strata through which we had passed was so
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 24<a name="Page_24"
+       id="Page_24"></a></span>dense and so white, that it looked
+       exactly like an enormous glacier, covered with fresh fallen
+       snow, extending for miles and miles; while the projecting
+       tops of the other Canary Islands appeared only like great
+       solitary rocks.</p>
+
+    <p>The sun had already become very oppressive, and at half-past
+    seven we stopped to breakfast and to water the horses.
+    Half-past eight found us in the saddle again, and we commenced
+    to traverse a dreary plain of yellowish white pumice-stone,
+    interspersed with huge blocks of obsidian, thrown from the
+    mouth of the volcano. At first the monotony of the scene was
+    relieved by large bushes of yellow broom in full flower, and
+    still larger bushes of the beautiful <i>Retama blanca</i>,
+    quite covered with lovely white bloom, scenting the air with
+    its delicious fragrance, and resembling huge tufts of feathers,
+    eight or nine feet high. As we proceeded, however, we left all
+    traces of vegetation behind us. It was like the Great Sahara.
+    On every side a vast expanse of yellow pumice-stone sand spread
+    around us, an occasional block of rock sticking up here and
+    there, and looking as if it had indeed been fused in a mighty
+    furnace. By half-past ten we had reached the 'Estancia de los
+    Ingleses,' 9,639 feet above the level of the sea, where the
+    baggage and some of the horses had to be left behind, the
+    saddles being transferred to mules for the very steep climb
+    before us. After a drink of water all round, we started again,
+    and commenced the ascent of the almost perpendicular stream of
+    lava and stone, which forms the only practicable route to the
+    top. Our poor beasts were only able to go a few paces at a time
+    without stopping to regain their breath. The loose ashes and
+    lava fortunately gave them a good foothold, or it would have
+    been quite impossible for them to get along at all. One was
+    only encouraged to proceed by the sight of one's friends above,
+    looking like flies clinging to the face of a wall. The road, if
+    such it can be called, ran in zigzags, each of which was about
+    the length of two horses, so that we were in turns
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 25<a name="Page_25"
+       id="Page_25"></a></span>one above another. There were a few
+       slips and slides and tumbles, but no important casualties;
+       and in about an hour and a half we had reached the 'Alta
+       Vista,' a tiny plateau, where the horses were to be
+       left.</p>
+
+    <p>The expedition so far had been such a fatiguing one, and the
+    heat was so great, that the children and I decided to remain
+    here, and to let the gentlemen proceed alone to the summit of
+    the Peak. We tried to find some shade, but the sun was so
+    immediately above us that this was almost an impossibility.
+    However, we managed to squeeze ourselves under some slightly
+    overhanging rocks, and I took some photographs while the
+    children slept. The guides soon returned with water-barrels
+    full of ice, procured from a cavern above, where there is a
+    stream of water constantly running; and nothing could have been
+    more grateful and refreshing.</p>
+
+    <p>It was more than three hours before Tom and Captain Lecky
+    reappeared, to be soon followed by the rest of the party.
+    Whilst they rested and refreshed themselves with ice, they
+    described the ascent as fatiguing in the extreme, in fact,
+    almost an impossibility for a lady. First they had scrambled
+    over huge blocks of rough lava to the tiny plain of the
+    Rambleta, 11,466 feet above the level of the sea, after which
+    they had to climb up the cone itself, 530 feet in height, and
+    sloping at an angle of 44 degrees. It is composed of ashes and
+    calcined chalk, into which their feet sank, while, for every
+    two steps they made forwards and upwards, they slipped one
+    backwards. But those who reached the top were rewarded for
+    their exertions by a glorious view, and by the wonderful
+    appearance of the summit of the Peak. The ground beneath their
+    feet was hot, while sulphurous vapours and smoke issued from
+    various small fissures around them, though there has been no
+    actual eruption from this crater of the volcano since 1704.
+    They brought down with them a beautiful piece of calcined
+    chalk, covered with crystals of sulphur and arsenic, and
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 26<a name="Page_26"
+       id="Page_26"></a></span>some other specimens. Parched and
+       dry as the ground looked where I was resting, a few grains
+       of barley, dropped by mules on the occasion of a previous
+       visit, had taken root and had grown up into ear; and there
+       were also a few roots of a sort of dog-violet, showing its
+       delicate lavender-coloured flowers 11,000 feet above the
+       sea, and far beyond the level of any other vegetation.</p>
+
+    <p>It was impossible to ride down to the spot where we had left
+    the baggage animals, and the descent was consequently very
+    fatiguing, and even painful. At every step our feet sank into a
+    mass of loose scori&aelig; and ashes; and so we went slipping,
+    sliding, and stumbling along, sometimes running against a rock,
+    and sometimes nearly pitching forward on our faces. All this
+    too beneath a blazing sun, with the thermometer at 78&deg;, and
+    not a vestige of shade. At last Tom and I reached the bottom,
+    where, after partaking of luncheon and draughts of quinine, we
+    lay down under the shadow of a great rock to recruit our weary
+    frames.</p>
+
+    <p>Refreshed by our meal, we started at six o'clock on our
+    return journey, and went down a good deal faster than we came
+    up. Before the end of the pumice-stone or Retama plains had
+    been reached, it was nearly dark. Sundry small accidents
+    occurring to stirrup-leathers, bridles, and girths&mdash;for
+    the saddlery was not of the best description&mdash;delayed us
+    slightly, and as Tom, Dr. Potter, Allnutt, and the guide had
+    got on ahead, we soon lost sight of them. After an interval of
+    uncertainty, the other guides confessed that they did not know
+    the way back in the dark. This was not pleasant, for the roads
+    were terrible, and during the whole of our journey up, from the
+    port to the Peak, we had met only four people in all&mdash;two
+    goatherds with their flocks, and two 'neveros,' bringing down
+    ice to the town. There was therefore not much chance of gaining
+    information from any one on our way down. We wandered about
+    among low bushes, down watercourses, and over rocks for a long
+    time. Horns were blown, and other means of attracting attention
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 27<a name="Page_27"
+       id="Page_27"></a></span>were tried; first one and then
+       another of the party meanwhile coming more or less to grief.
+       My good little horse fell down three times, though we did
+       not part company, and once he went up a steep bank by
+       mistake, instead of going down a very nasty watercourse,
+       which I do not wonder at his objecting to. I managed to jump
+       off in time, and so no harm was done; but it was rather
+       anxious work.</p>
+
+    <p>About ten o'clock we saw a light in the distance, and with
+    much shouting woke up the inhabitants of the cottage whence it
+    proceeded, promising to reward them liberally if they would
+    only show us our way back. Three of them consented to do this,
+    and provided themselves accordingly with pine-torches, wrapped
+    round with bracken and leaves. One, a very fine man, dressed in
+    white, with his arm extended above his head, bearing the light,
+    led the way; another walked in front of my horse, while the
+    third brought up the rear. They conducted us down the most
+    frightfully steep paths until we had descended beneath the
+    clouds, when the light from our torches threw our shadows in
+    gigantic form upon the mists above, reminding us of the legend
+    of the 'Spectre of the Brocken.' At last the torches began to
+    go out, one by one, and just as the last light was expiring we
+    arrived at a small village, where we of course found that
+    everybody was asleep. After some delay, during which Mabelle
+    and I were so tired that we lay down in the street to rest,
+    more torches were procured and a fresh guide, who led us into
+    the comparatively good path towards Puerto Orotava. Finally,
+    half an hour after midnight, we arrived at the house of the
+    Vice-Consul, who had provided refreshments for us, and whose
+    nephew was still very kindly sitting up awaiting our return.
+    But we were too tired to do anything but go straight on board
+    the yacht, where, after some supper and champagne, we were
+    indeed glad to retire to our berths. This was at 3.30 a.m.,
+    exactly twenty-nine hours since we had been called on Friday
+    night.<span class="pagenum">Page 28<a name="Page_28"
+       id="Page_28"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>It is certainly too long an expedition to be performed in
+    one day. Tents should be taken, and arrangements made for
+    camping out for one, if not two, nights; but, in the case of
+    such a large party as ours, this would have been a great
+    business, as everything must be carried to so great a height,
+    up such steep places, and over such bad roads. Still, there are
+    so many objects and places of interest, not only on, but
+    around, the Peak, that it is a pity to see them only when
+    hurried and fatigued.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, July 23rd</i>.&mdash;Orders had been given not to
+    call us nor to wash decks, and it was consequently half-past
+    ten before any one awoke, and midday before the first of our
+    party put in an appearance on deck.</p>
+
+    <p>Long before this, the 'Sunbeam' had been inundated with
+    visitors from the shore. We had given a general invitation to
+    the friends of the Vice-Consul to come and see the yacht; and
+    they accordingly arrived in due course, accompanied in many
+    cases by a large circle of acquaintances. Those who came first
+    were conducted below and all over the vessel, but the number
+    ultimately became so great that, in self-defence, we were
+    obliged to limit their wanderings to the deck, opening the
+    skylights wide, however, to enable them to see as much as
+    possible of the saloon and cabins.</p>
+
+    <p>From breakfast-time until prayers, at three o'clock, when
+    the yacht was closed for an hour, there was a constant stream
+    of visitors from the shore. It was a great nuisance; but still
+    it seemed unkind to refuse to allow them to see what they had
+    never seen before, and might possibly never have an opportunity
+    of seeing again. All steamers and sailing-ships, as a rule, go
+    to Santa Cruz; and the fame of our vessel having been spread
+    abroad by our visitors of Friday, many of the poor people had
+    come from villages far away over the mountains. We could not
+    help feeling a certain respect for the determined way in which
+    physical infirmity was mastered by curiosity
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 29<a name="Page_29"
+       id="Page_29"></a></span>for, though many experienced very
+       serious inconvenience from the motion of the vessel, they
+       still persevered in their examination.</p>
+
+    <p>About five o'clock we went ashore ourselves, and drove up to
+    Villa Orotava. The wide road is macadamised and marked with
+    kilometre stones, and is planted on either side with
+    pepper-trees, plane-trees, and the <i>Eucalyptus globulus</i>,
+    which has grown 35 metres, or 115 feet, in seven years. The
+    hedges are formed of blue plumbago, scarlet geranium, yellow
+    acacia, lavender-coloured heliotrope, white jasmine, and pink
+    and white roses.</p>
+
+    <p>After driving a few miles, we turned down an old paved road
+    towards the sea, and, by dint of a considerable amount of
+    shaking, arrived at the celebrated Botanical Gardens, mentioned
+    by Humboldt and others. We passed through a small house, with a
+    fine dragon-tree on either side, and entered the gardens, where
+    we found a valuable collection of trees and shrubs of almost
+    every known species. The kind and courteous Curator, Don
+    Hermann Wildgaret, accompanied us, and explained the
+    peculiarities of the many interesting plants, from Europe,
+    Asia, Africa, America, Australia, New Zealand, and the various
+    islands of the North and South Pacific and Indian Oceans. The
+    climate of Teneriffe is so equable, that the island forms a
+    true garden of acclimatisation for the vegetable productions of
+    the various countries of the world; by the judicious
+    expenditure of a little more money, this establishment might be
+    made an important means of introducing to Europe many new and
+    valuable plants. At present the annual income is 5,000 francs,
+    the salary of the Curator being 1,000 francs.</p>
+
+    <p>A rough drive over paved roads, commanding extensive views
+    of sea and rocks, and of some palm-trees on a promontory in the
+    distance, brought us, at about seven o'clock, to the boat,
+    which was waiting our return. We arrived in due course on board
+    the 'Sunbeam,' laden with bouquets of
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 30<a name="Page_30"
+       id="Page_30"></a></span>the choicest flowers, and soon after
+       dinner we all retired to bed, not having yet recovered from
+       the fatigues of yesterday.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, July 24th</i>.&mdash;What one gains in the beauty
+    and abundance of vegetable life here, one loses in its rapid
+    and premature decay. Fruit gathered in the morning is scarcely
+    fit to eat at night, and the flowers brought on board yesterday
+    evening were dead to-day at 4.30 a.m.; whilst some of the roses
+    we brought from Cowes lasted until we reached Madeira, though
+    it must be owned so many fell to pieces that my cabin used to
+    be daily swept with rose-leaves instead of tea-leaves.</p>
+
+    <p>We went ashore soon after six, and drove straight to the
+    garden of the Marquis de Sonzal, where there is a beautiful
+    palm-tree, 101 feet high, the remains of an enormous
+    dragon-tree, old even in the fifteenth century, besides hedges
+    of myrtle, jasmine, and clematis, and flowers of every
+    description in full bloom. The dragon-tree is a species of
+    drac&aelig;na, and looks rather like a gigantic candelabra,
+    composed of a number of yuccas, perched on the top of a gnarled
+    and somewhat deformed stem, half palm half cactus. Another
+    beautiful garden was next visited, belonging to the Marquis de
+    la Candia, who received us and showed us his coffee and
+    plantains in full growth, as well as a magnificent Spanish
+    chestnut-tree, co&euml;val with the dragon-tree. Out of one of
+    its almost decayed branches a so-called young tree was growing,
+    but it would have been thought very respectable and middle-aged
+    in any other locality.</p>
+
+    <p>Every one here, as in Madeira, has been more or less ruined
+    by the failure of the vines. Most of the large landed
+    proprietors have left their estates to take care of themselves;
+    and the peasants, for the last few years, have been emigrating
+    by hundreds to Caraccas, in Venezuela. Things are, however,
+    beginning to look up a little now. The cultivation of cochineal
+    appears to succeed, though the price is low; coffee answers
+    well; and permission has been obtained from the Spanish
+    Government to grow tobacco, <span class="pagenum">Page
+    31<a name="Page_31"
+       id="Page_31"></a></span>accompanied by a promise to
+       purchase, at a certain fixed rate, all that can be produced.
+       Still, people talk of the Island of Teneriffe as something
+       very different now from what it was twenty-five or thirty
+       years ago, both as regards the number of its inhabitants and
+       the activity of its commerce, and mourn over 'the good old
+       times;'&mdash;a custom I have remarked in many other
+       places!</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_046"
+             id="Illus_046"></a> <img src="images/t_046.jpg"
+             width="153"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: A Palm-tree in a Garden, Orotava, Teneriffe"
+             title="Illustration: A Palm-tree in a Garden, Orotava, Teneriffe" />
+        <br />
+        <b>A Palm-tree in a Garden, Orotava, Teneriffe</b><br />
+        <a href="images/046.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The Marquis de la Candia and Don Hermann Wildgaret returned
+    on board with us to breakfast. The anchor had been weighed, and
+    the 'Sunbeam' was slowly steaming up and down, waiting for us.
+    The stream of visitors had been as great and as constant as
+    ever during our absence, in spite of the heavy roll of the sea,
+    and the deck seemed <span class="pagenum">Page
+    32<a name="Page_32"
+       id="Page_32"></a></span>quite covered with baskets of
+       flowers and fruit, kindly sent on board by the people who
+       had been over the yacht the day before. Amongst the latest
+       arrivals were some very handsome Spanish ladies, beautifully
+       dressed in black, with mantillas, each of whom was
+       accompanied by a young man carrying a basin. It must, I
+       fear, be confessed that this was rather a trial to the
+       gravity of all on board. It certainly was an instance of the
+       pursuit of knowledge, or the gratification of curiosity,
+       under considerable difficulties.</p>
+
+    <p>Immediately after breakfast, our friends bade us adieu, and
+    went ashore in the shore-boat, while we steamed along the north
+    side of the island, past the splendid cliffs of Buenavista,
+    rising 2,000 feet sheer from the sea, to Cape Teno, the extreme
+    western point of Teneriffe. In the distance we could see the
+    Great Canary, Palma, and Hierro, and soon passed close to the
+    rocky island of Gomera. Here, too, the dark cliffs, of volcanic
+    form and origin, are magnificent, and as we were almost
+    becalmed by the high land whilst we sailed along the north
+    shore of the island, we had ample opportunities of admiring its
+    rugged beauty. During the night we approached Palma, another
+    large island of the Canary group, containing one of the most
+    remarkable <i>calderas</i>, or large basins, formed by volcanic
+    action in the world.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 33<a name="Page_33"
+       id="Page_33"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_III"
+       id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">PALMA TO RIO DE JANEIRO.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>A wet sheet and a flowing
+            sea</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>A wind that follows
+            fast</i><br /></span> <span><i>And fills the white and
+            rustling sail</i><br /></span> <span><i>And bends the
+            gallant mast</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, July 25th</i>.&mdash;There was not much wind
+    during the night, and Palma was consequently still visible when
+    I came on deck at daybreak. We had a light fair wind in the
+    morning, accompanied by a heavy swell, which caused us to roll
+    so much that I found it very difficult to do anything. Several
+    shoals of flying fish skimmed past us along the surface of the
+    water, occasionally rising to a considerable height above it.
+    Their beautiful wings, glittering in the bright sunlight,
+    looked like delicate silver filigree-work. In the night one
+    flew on board, only to be preserved in spirits by Dr.
+    Potter.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, July 29th</i>.&mdash;For the last three days we
+    have been going on quietly with fair, warm weather, but a nice
+    fresh breeze sprang up to-day. At midday the sun was so exactly
+    vertical over our heads, that it was literally possible to
+    stand under the shadow of one's own hatbrim, and be sheltered
+    all round. Our navigators experienced considerable difficulty
+    in taking their noon-tide observations, as the sun appeared to
+    dodge about in every direction.</p>
+
+    <p>About two o'clock we made the high land of St. Antonio, one
+    of the Cape de Verde Islands, and, soon afterwards, the lower
+    land of St Vincent. Some doubt existing as to the prevalence of
+    fever at the latter place, Tom <span class="pagenum">Page
+    34<a name="Page_34"
+       id="Page_34"></a></span>decided not to stop there, for fear
+       of having to undergo quarantine at Rio de Janeiro. We
+       therefore shortened sail, and passed slowly between the
+       islands to the anchorage beyond the Bird Rock. This is a
+       very small island, of perfectly conical form, covered with
+       thousands of sea-fowl, who live here undisturbed by any
+       other inhabitants. The town of Porto Grande, with its rows
+       of white houses on the sea-shore, at the base of the rocky
+       crags, looked clean and comfortable in the evening light.
+       During the day, however, it must be a hot and glaring place,
+       for there are no trees to afford shade, nor, indeed, any
+       kind of vegetation. The water, too, is bad, and all supplies
+       for passing steamers are brought from the other islands, at
+       very uncertain intervals. It is still a great
+       coaling-station, though not so much used as it was formerly,
+       before the opening of the Suez Canal. The ships come out
+       with coal, and go away in ballast (there is nothing else to
+       be had here), procured from a point near the town, to Rio or
+       elsewhere, where they pick up their homeward cargo of fruit,
+       &amp;c.</p>
+
+    <p>The absence of twilight in these latitudes, both at dawn and
+    sunset, is certainly very remarkable. This morning, at four
+    o'clock, the stars were shining brightly; ten minutes later the
+    day had commenced to break; and at half-past four the sun had
+    risen above the horizon, and was gilding the surrounding
+    mountain tops.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, July 30th</i>.&mdash;About 10 a.m. we were off
+    Tarafal Bay&mdash;a most hopeless-looking place for supplies.
+    High rocky mountains, sandy slopes, and black volcanic beach,
+    composed a scene of arid desolation, in the midst of which was
+    situated one small white house, with four windows and a
+    thatched roof, surrounded by a little green patch of
+    sugar-canes and cocoa-nut palms.</p>
+
+    <p>But the result proved the sageness of the advice contained
+    in the old proverb, not to trust to appearances only; for,
+    whilst we were at breakfast, Mr. Martinez, the son of the owner
+    of the one whitewashed cottage to be seen, came on
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 35<a name="Page_35"
+       id="Page_35"></a></span>board. To our surprise, he spoke
+       English extremely well, and promised us all sorts of
+       supplies, if we could wait until three o'clock in the
+       afternoon. Having agreed to do this, we shortly afterwards
+       went ashore in his boat, with a crew of more than half-naked
+       negroes, and a hot row of about three miles brought us to
+       the shore, where, after some little difficulty, we succeeded
+       in effecting a landing. Our feet immediately sank into the
+       hot black sand, composed entirely of volcanic deposits and
+       small pieces, or rather grains, of amber, through which we
+       had a fatiguing walk until we reached some palm-trees,
+       shading a little pool of water. Here we left some of the
+       men, with instructions to fill the breakers they had brought
+       with them, while we walked on along the beach, past the
+       remains of an English schooner that caught fire not far from
+       this island, and was run ashore by her captain, thirty years
+       ago. Her iron anchor, chain, and wheel still remained,
+       together with two queer little iron cannon, which I should
+       have much liked to carry off as a memorial of our visit. We
+       then turned up a narrow shadeless path, bordered by stone
+       walls, leading away from the sea, past a sugar-mill and a
+       ruin. A few almond, castor-oil, and fig trees were growing
+       amongst the sugar-canes, and as we mounted the hill we could
+       see some thirty round straw huts, like beehives, on the
+       sandy slopes beside the little stream. An abrupt turn in the
+       mountains, amid which, at a distance of three leagues, this
+       tiny river takes its rise, hides it from the sea, so that
+       the narrow valley which it fertilises looks like a small
+       oasis in the desert of rocks and sand.</p>
+
+    <p>Mr. Martinez's house, where we sat for some time, and
+    beneath the windows of which the one stream of the island runs,
+    was comparatively cool. Outside, the negro washerwomen were
+    busy washing clothes in large turtle-shell tubs, assisted, or
+    hindered, by the 'washerwoman-bird,' a kind of white crane, who
+    appeared quite tame, playing about just like a kitten, pecking
+    at the clothes or the women's feet, <span class="pagenum">Page
+    36<a name="Page_36"
+       id="Page_36"></a></span>and then running away and hiding
+       behind a tree. The stream was full of water-cresses, while
+       the burnt-up little garden contained an abundance of
+       beautiful flowers. There were scarlet and yellow mimosas, of
+       many kinds, combining every shade of exquisite green velvety
+       foliage, alpinias, with pink, waxy flowers and crimson and
+       gold centres, oleanders, begonias, hibiscus, allamandas, and
+       arum and other lilies.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_052"
+             id="Illus_052"></a> <img src="images/t_052.jpg"
+             width="184"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Tarafal Bay, St. Antonio"
+             title="Illustration: Tarafal Bay, St. Antonio" /><br />
+        <b>Tarafal Bay, St. Antonio</b><br />
+        <a href="images/052.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Mr. Bingham sketched, I took some photographs, Dr. Potter
+    and the children caught butterflies, and the rest of our party
+    wandered about. Every five minutes a negro arrived with a
+    portion of our supplies. One brought a sheep, another a
+    milch-goat for baby, while the rest contributed, severally, a
+    couple of cocoa-nuts, a papaya, three mangoes, a few
+    water-cresses, a sack of sweet potatoes, a bottle of milk,
+    three or four quinces, a bunch of bananas, a little honey,
+    half-a-dozen cabbages, some veal and pork, and so on; until it
+    appeared as if every little garden on either side of the three
+    leagues of stream must have yielded up its entire produce, and
+    we had accumulated sacks full of cocoa-nuts and potatoes,
+    hundreds of eggs, and dozens of chickens and ducks. It was very
+    amusing to see the things arrive. They were brought in by
+    people varying in colour from dark yellow to the blackest
+    ebony, and ranging in size from fine stalwart men, over six
+    feet in height, to tiny little blackies of about three feet
+    six, with curly hair, snowy teeth, and mischievous, beady eyes.
+    The arrival of the provision boat and the transfer of its
+    miscellaneous cargo to the 'Sunbeam' was quite an amusing
+    sight. The pretty black goat and the sheep bleated, the fowls
+    cackled, and the ducks quacked, while the negroes chatted and
+    laughed as they handed and hauled on board fish of all shapes
+    and sizes, bunches of bananas, piles of cocoa-nuts, sacks of
+    potatoes, and many other things, finishing up with a tiny black
+    boy, about three years old, whom I think they would rather have
+    liked to leave behind with us, if we would only have taken him.
+    The <span class="pagenum">Page 37<a name="Page_37"
+       id="Page_37"></a></span>fish proved excellent, though some
+       of them really seemed almost too pretty to eat. A brilliant
+       gold fish, weighing about three pounds, and something like a
+       grey mullet in flavour, was perhaps the best. The prices
+       were very curious. Chickens a shilling each, ducks five
+       shillings, goats thirty shillings, and sheep ten shillings.
+       Vegetables, fruit, and flowers were extremely cheap; but the
+       charge for water, fetched from the spring in our own
+       breakers by our own crew, with but little assistance from
+       four or five negroes, was 3<i>l</i>. 18<i>s</i>. However, as
+       ours is the only yacht, with one exception, that has ever
+       visited this island, there was nothing for it except to pay
+       the bill without demur. <span class="pagenum">Page
+       38<a name="Page_38"
+       id="Page_38"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>I never in my life felt so warm as I did to-day on shore,
+    though the inhabitants say it will not be <i>really</i> hot for
+    two months yet; I never before saw cocoa-nut palms growing; and
+    I never tasted a mango until this morning; so I have
+    experienced three new sensations in one day.</p>
+
+    <p>The night was fearfully close, muggy, and thundery, the
+    temperature in the cabins being 89&deg;, in spite of open
+    sky-lights and port-holes. Generally speaking, it has not
+    hitherto been as hot as we expected, especially on board the
+    yacht itself. On deck there is almost always a nice breeze, but
+    below it is certainly warm.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, August 1st</i>.&mdash;Yesterday we were still
+    under sail, but to-day it has been necessary to steam, for the
+    wind has fallen too light. There was a heavy roll from the
+    south, and the weather continued hot and oppressive. In the
+    cabins the thermometer stood at 89&deg; during the whole of the
+    night, in spite of all our efforts to improve the temperature.
+    We therefore put three of the children in the deck-house to
+    sleep, opening the doors and windows; and some of the rest of
+    our party slept on deck in hammocks. In anticipation of the
+    heavy equatorial rains, which Captain Lecky had predicted might
+    commence to-day, we had had the awnings put up; a fortunate
+    piece of foresight, for, before midnight, the rain came down in
+    torrents.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, August 2nd</i>.&mdash;At daybreak the sky was
+    covered with heavy black clouds, and the atmosphere was as hot
+    and muggy as ever. We had a great deal of rain during the day,
+    and took advantage of the opportunity to fill every available
+    tub, bucket, and basin, to say nothing of the awnings. It came
+    down in such sheets that mackintoshes were comparatively
+    useless, and we had soon filled our seventeen breakers, the
+    cistern, and the boats, from which we had removed the covers,
+    with very good, though somewhat dirty, washing water.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, August 4th</i>.&mdash;We were only 289 miles off
+    Sierra Leone in the morning, and at noon therefore Tom
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 39<a name="Page_39"
+       id="Page_39"></a></span>decided to put about. Having done
+       so, we found that we went along much more easily and quite
+       as fast on the other tack. We maintained a good rate of
+       speed on our new course, which was now nearly due west,
+       passing a large barque with every stitch of canvas set, hand
+       over hand.</p>
+
+    <p>We are still in the Guinea current, and the temperature of
+    the water is 82&deg;, even in the early morning; but the heat
+    of the sun does not seem to have much effect upon it, as it
+    does not vary to any great extent during the day.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_054"
+             id="Illus_054"></a> <img src="images/t_054.jpg"
+             width="152"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Father Neptune"
+             title="Illustration: Father Neptune" /><br />
+        <b>Father Neptune</b><br />
+        <a href="images/054.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>In the evening we saw the Southern Cross for the first time,
+    and were much disappointed in its appearance. The fourth star
+    is of smaller magnitude than the others, and the whole group is
+    only for a very short time in a really upright position,
+    inclining almost always either to one side or the other, as it
+    rises and sets.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, August 8th</i>.&mdash;We crossed the line at
+    daylight.</p>
+
+    <p>This event caused much fun and excitement, both in cabin and
+    forecastle. The conventional hair was put across the field of
+    the telescope for the unsophisticated 'really to see the line,'
+    and many firmly believed they did see it, and discussed its
+    appearance at some length. Jim Allen, one of our tallest
+    sailors, and coxswain of the gig, dressed in blue, with long
+    oakum wig and beard, gilt paper crown, and trident and fish
+    impaled in one hand, was seated on a gun-carriage, and made a
+    capital Father Neptune. <span class="pagenum">Page
+    40<a name="Page_40"
+       id="Page_40"></a></span>Our somewhat portly engineer, Mr.
+       Rowbotham, with fur-trimmed dressing gown and cap, and bent
+       form, leaning on a stick, his face partially concealed by a
+       long grey beard, and a large band-box of pills on one arm,
+       made an equally good doctor to his Marine Majesty, while the
+       part of Mrs. Trident was ably filled by one of the youngest
+       sailors, dressed in some of the maids' clothes; but the
+       accompanying pictures will give a better idea than any
+       description of mine.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_055"
+             id="Illus_055"></a> <img src="images/t_055.jpg"
+             width="170"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: His Doctor (Crossing the Line)"
+             title="Illustration: His Doctor (Crossing the Line)" /><br />
+
+        <b>His Doctor (Crossing the Line)</b><br />
+        <a href="images/055.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Soon afterwards we saw an enormous shoal of grampuses, large
+    black fish, about 25 feet in length, something between a
+    dolphin and a whale, with the very ugliest jaws, or rather
+    snouts, imaginable. They are of a predatory and ferocious
+    disposition, attacking not only sharks, dolphins, and
+    porpoises, but even whales, more than twice their own size. We
+    also passed through enormous quantities of flying-fish, no
+    doubt driven to the surface by dolphins and bonitos. They were
+    much larger and stronger in the wing than any we have hitherto
+    seen.</p>
+
+    <p>Lulu's puppies, born yesterday, have been respectively named
+    Butterfly (who survived her birth only an hour), Poseidon,
+    Aphrodite, Amphitrite, and Thetis&mdash;names suggested by
+    their birth-place on the ocean close to his Marine Majesty's
+    supposed equatorial palace.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_056"
+             id="Illus_056"></a> <img src="images/t_056.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="142"
+             alt="Illustration: Lulu and her Puppies"
+             title="Illustration: Lulu and her Puppies" /><br />
+        <b>Lulu and her Puppies</b><br />
+        <a href="images/056.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>At noon we were 250 miles off St. Paul's Rocks.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, August 10th</i>.&mdash;A very hot, showery day.
+    Saw two large ships in the distance. In the morning we were
+    almost becalmed for a time, but the breeze returned
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 41<a name="Page_41"
+       id="Page_41"></a></span>during the afternoon, and we were
+       able to proceed on our course. I think this has been the
+       most lovely of the many exquisite days we have enjoyed since
+       we left England. It commenced with a magnificent sunrise,
+       and ended with an equally gorgeous sunset, only to be
+       succeeded by a beautiful moonlight night, so clear and
+       bright that we could see to read ordinary print on deck.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, August 12th</i>.&mdash;At noon we were 300
+    miles off Bahia, a place we have made up our minds not to
+    visit, as it would lengthen our voyage considerably, and there
+    is not much to see there. We have therefore decided to proceed
+    direct to Rio, where we are looking forward to arrive on
+    Wednesday or Thursday next.</p>
+
+    <p>The night was showery, with a good deal of wind and sea.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, August 13th</i>.&mdash;Sailing in the tropics is
+    really very delightful! When going to the westward, there is
+    almost always, at this season of the year, a favourable breeze,
+    and the weather is generally either quite fair or moderately
+    so.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span>Whispered to it, westward, westward,<br /></span>
+            <span>And with speed it darted forward.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We had service at 11.15 a.m., and again at 5.30 p.m. The
+    choir has considerably improved; one of our new men plays the
+    violin very well, and frequently
+    accompanies<span class="pagenum">Page 42<a name="Page_42"
+       id="Page_42"></a></span> the children and the nurse in their
+       songs. On a clear calm night, beneath a tropical sky, when
+       the members of this little group assemble on deck, and, by
+       the light of a lantern, sing some of their simple songs, the
+       effect produced is both melodious and picturesque.</p>
+
+    <p>The wind dropped at about 10 p.m., and we had an unpleasant
+    amount of roll during the night, sails flapping, spars
+    creaking, and booms swinging as if they would pull the masts
+    out of the vessel.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_057"
+             id="Illus_057"></a> <img src="images/t_057.jpg"
+             width="228"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Vespers"
+             title="Illustration: Vespers" /><br />
+        <b>Vespers</b><br />
+        <a href="images/057.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, August 14th</i>.&mdash;This morning we saw a
+    small schooner ahead, and thinking from her manoeuvres that she
+    wished to speak us, we made our number and ran towards her. We
+    soon found out, however, that she was a whaler, in chase of two
+    large grampuses. She had two men on the look-out in the
+    cross-trees, in a sort of iron cage; and though she was of much
+    smaller tonnage than the 'Sunbeam,' she carried five big boats,
+    one of which, full of men, was ready to be lowered into the
+    water, the <span class="pagenum">Page 43<a name="Page_43"
+       id="Page_43"></a></span>instant they had approached
+       sufficiently near to the whale or grampus. These seas used
+       formerly to abound with whalers, but they are now much less
+       numerous, the seasons having been bad of late.</p>
+
+    <p>To-night the stars were especially brilliant, and we spent
+    some hours in trying to make out their names. Vega, our polar
+    star for some time to come, shone conspicuously bright, and the
+    Southern Cross could be seen to great advantage.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, August 16th</i>.&mdash;We had a fine fair
+    breeze all day, and at 5 p.m. there was a cry from the
+    mast-head of 'Land ahead!' Great excitement immediately
+    prevailed on board, and Tom and Captain Brown rushed, for about
+    the twelfth time, to the foretop to see if the report was true.
+    They were soon able to announce that Cape Frio was visible on
+    the port bow, about thirty-five miles distant. After even a
+    fortnight at sea, an indescribable sensation is produced by
+    this cry, and by the subsequent sight of the land itself. When
+    we came up on deck this evening, after dinner, we all gazed on
+    the lighthouse on the still distant shore as if we had never
+    beheld such a thing in our lives before. The colour and
+    temperature of the water had perceptibly changed, the former
+    from a beautiful, clear, dark ultramarine to a muddy green;
+    innumerable small birds, moths, locusts, and grasshoppers came
+    on board; and, having given special orders that we were to be
+    called early the next morning, we went to bed in the fond hope
+    that we should be able to enter Rio harbour at daybreak.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, August 17th</i>.&mdash;'L'homme propose; Dieu
+    dispose.' Steam was up at midnight, but by that time it was
+    blowing half a gale of wind from the south-west, with such a
+    steep short sea that the screw was scarcely ever properly
+    immersed, but went racing round and round in the air with
+    tremendous velocity, as we pitched and rolled about. Our
+    progress was therefore at the rate of
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 44<a name="Page_44"
+       id="Page_44"></a></span>something rather under a mile an
+       hour, and at daybreak, instead of entering the harbour of
+       Rio, as we had hoped to do, we found ourselves close to Cape
+       Frio.</p>
+
+    <p>About 8 a.m. matters mended, the wind moderating and
+    changing its direction slightly; so that, under steam and sail,
+    we were soon going along the coast at the rate of four or five
+    miles an hour. The surf was breaking with a loud roar upon the
+    white sandy beach, while the spray was carried by the force of
+    the wind far inland, over the strip of flat fertile-looking
+    country, lying between the sea and a chain of low
+    sugarloaf-shaped mountains, parallel with the shore, and only a
+    short distance off.</p>
+
+    <p>Our course lay between the mainland and the islands of Maya
+    and Payo, where the groves of bananas and other trees looked
+    very miserable in the wind. The tall isolated palm-trees, whose
+    elastic stems bowed readily before the fury of the blast,
+    looked, as they were twisted and whirled hither and thither,
+    like umbrellas turned inside out. Passing the false Sugarloaf
+    mountain, as it is called, we next opened out the true one, the
+    Gavia, and the chain of mountains beyond, the outlines of which
+    bear an extraordinary resemblance to the figure of a man lying
+    on his back, the profile of the face being very like that of
+    the late Duke of Wellington. As the sun sank in gorgeous
+    splendour behind these hills, I think I never saw a grander or
+    more beautiful sight; though the sky was so red and
+    stormy-looking that our hopes of a fine day to-morrow were but
+    faint.</p>
+
+    <p>Before entering the harbour, a bar had to be crossed, which
+    is a dangerous operation all the world over. The skylights and
+    hatches were fastened down, and those of our party who did not
+    like being shut up below took their places on the bridge,
+    where, for the first time since we left England, it felt really
+    quite cold. As we advanced, the beautiful harbour, with its
+    long rows of glittering gas-lights, extending for miles on
+    either side of the bay, and <span class="pagenum">Page
+    45<a name="Page_45"
+       id="Page_45"></a></span>illuminating the city and suburbs,
+       gradually became visible. On our left lay the two islands,
+       Rodonda and Raza, on the latter of which is situated a
+       lighthouse. The wind was blowing off the land when we
+       reached the bar, so that, after all our preparations, there
+       was hardly any sea to encounter, and the moment we were
+       over, the water on the other side was perfectly smooth. A
+       gun and a blue light from Fort Santa Cruz, answered
+       immediately by a similar signal from Fort Santa Lucia,
+       announced our arrival, and we shortly afterwards dropped our
+       anchor in the quarantine ground of Rio close to Botafogo
+       Bay, in the noble harbour of Nictheroy.</p>
+
+    <p>After dinner it rained heavily, and continued to do so
+    during the whole night.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_061"
+             id="Illus_061"></a> <img src="images/t_061.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="163"
+             alt="Illustration: Botafogo Bay"
+             title="Illustration: Botafogo Bay" /><br />
+        <b>Botafogo Bay</b><br />
+        <a href="images/061.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 46<a name="Page_46"
+       id="Page_46"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_IV"
+       id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">RIO DE JANEIRO.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>The sun is warm, the sky is
+            clear</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>The waves are dancing
+            fast and bright</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Blue isles
+            and snowy mountains wear</i><br /></span> <span><i>The
+            purple noon's transparent light</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, August 18th</i>.&mdash;The clouds still hung
+    heavy on the hills, or rather mountains, which surround the
+    bay, occasionally descending in the form of torrents of rain,
+    and hiding everything from our view.</p>
+
+    <p>Early in the morning we weighed anchor and steamed up the
+    bay to the man-of-war anchorage, a much pleasanter situation
+    than the quarantine harbour, where we had brought up last
+    night. About 9.30 a.m. the health officers came on board, and
+    half an hour later we had a visit from the custom-house
+    official, who required Tom to sign and seal a declaration upon
+    oath that he had no cargo on board, and not more coal than we
+    absolutely required for our own consumption.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 47<a name="Page_47"
+       id="Page_47"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>About eleven o'clock we put on our mackintoshes and thick
+    boots, and, accompanied by an interpreter, who (together with
+    several washerwomen) had suddenly made his appearance on board,
+    rowed ashore, pushing our way through crowds of boats laden
+    with fruit and vegetables. The landing-place was close to the
+    market, at some broken-down steps, and was crowded with
+    chattering negroes, of every shade of colour. The quays seemed
+    covered with piles of fruit and vegetables, discharged from the
+    boats, the principal produce being sugar-cane, bananas, and
+    oranges. Each side street that we came to was a little river,
+    which had to be crossed, or rather forded, after paddling
+    through the mud in the main thoroughfare.</p>
+
+    <p>Our first visit was to the post-office&mdash;'no
+    letters'&mdash;then to the British Consulate&mdash;'no
+    letters'&mdash;and finally to the Legation, but there was
+    nobody at home there; so we set off for the H&ocirc;tel des
+    Etrangers, to breakfast. Our way lay through the straggling
+    suburbs of the city for about two miles, and as we drove along
+    we could see and admire, despite the heavy rain, the
+    magnificent groves of palm-trees, and the brilliancy and beauty
+    of the tropical vegetation in the various private and public
+    gardens that we passed.</p>
+
+    <p>After breakfast we returned to the Legation, where we were
+    most kindly received, but, much to our regret, no letters were
+    forthcoming. We next paid a visit to some of the shops in the
+    Rua do Ouvidor, for the sale of imitations of flowers, made
+    from the undyed feathers of birds, and a large number of the
+    more expensive varieties of ordinary artificial flowers, each
+    petal consisting of the entire throat or breast of a
+    humming-bird, and the leaves are made from the wings of
+    beetles. They are very rare and beautiful, their manufacture
+    being quite a <i>sp&eacute;cialit&eacute;</i> of this city. The
+    prices asked astonished us greatly; the cost of five sprays,
+    which I had been commissioned to buy, was 29<i>l</i>., and the
+    price of all the others <span class="pagenum">Page
+    48<a name="Page_48"
+       id="Page_48"></a></span> was proportionately high. But then
+       they wear for ever. I have had some for nine years, and they
+       are as good now as when they were bought.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, August 19th</i>.&mdash;Though far from
+    brilliant, the weather improved, and we were able to enjoy
+    occasional glimpses of the beautiful scenery around us.</p>
+
+    <p>Mr. Gough and Mr. O'Conor breakfasted with us on board, and
+    we afterwards proceeded in a 'bond' to the Botanical Gardens,
+    about seven miles out of the city. These 'bonds,' which are a
+    great institution here, are large carriages, either open or
+    closed, drawn sometimes by one, sometimes by two, sometimes by
+    three mules. They go at a great pace, and run very smoothly.
+    Ordinary carriages are dear; and as tramways have been laid
+    down in almost every street and road, driving is a rather
+    difficult affair. On our road we passed several
+    delightful-looking private gardens. The railings were
+    completely covered, some with white stephanotis and scarlet
+    lapageria, others with a beautiful orange-coloured creeper and
+    lilac bougainvill&aelig;a, or passion-flowers of many colours
+    and variety. Inside we could see large trees with green and
+    yellow stripes, croton-oil plants, spotted and veined
+    caladiums, and drac&aelig;nas, the whole being shaded by
+    orange-trees.</p>
+
+    <p>Along the edge of Botafogo Bay there is a delightful drive,
+    beneath a splendid avenue of imperial palms, extending to the
+    gates of the Botanical Gardens. Each specimen rises straight up
+    like the column of an Egyptian temple, and is crowned with a
+    feathery tuft of large shiny dark green leaves, some thirty
+    feet in length. The clumps of bamboos, too, were very fine, and
+    nearly all the trees seemed to be full of curious orchids and
+    parasites of every sort and kind.</p>
+
+    <p>We had an agreeable drive back in the cool evening to dinner
+    at the H&ocirc;tel de l'Europe. The food was excellent, and
+    included some delicious tiny queer-shaped oysters, which are
+    found on the mangrove-trees, overhanging the water higher up
+    the bay. We afterwards went to a <span class="pagenum">Page
+    49<a name="Page_49"
+       id="Page_49"></a></span>pleasant little reception, where we
+       enjoyed the splendid singing of some young Brazilian ladies,
+       and the subsequent row off to the yacht, in the moonlight,
+       was not the least delightful part of the programme.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, August 20th</i>.&mdash;At last a really fine day.
+    We could now, for the first time, thoroughly appreciate the
+    beauties of the noble bay of Nictheroy, though the distant
+    Organ mountains were still hidden from our view. In the
+    morning, we went to church on board H.M.S. 'Volage,' afterwards
+    rowing across the bay to Icaraky, where we took the tramway to
+    Santa Rosa. On our way we again passed many charming villas and
+    gardens, similar to those we had admired yesterday, while the
+    glorious and ever-attractive tropical vegetation abounded
+    everywhere. In spite of the great heat, the children seemed
+    untiring in the pursuit of butterflies, of which they succeeded
+    in catching many beautiful specimens.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, August 21st</i>.&mdash;After an early breakfast,
+    we started off to have a look at the market. The greatest
+    bustle and animation prevailed, and there were people and
+    things to see and observe in endless variety. The fish-market
+    was full of finny monsters of the deep, all new and strange to
+    us, whose odd Brazilian names would convey to a stranger but
+    little idea of the fish themselves. There was an enormous
+    rockfish, weighing about 300 pounds, with hideous face and
+    shiny back and fins; there were large ray, and skate, and
+    cuttle-fish&mdash;the <i>pieuvre</i> of Victor Hugo's
+    'Travailleurs de la Mer'&mdash;besides baskets full of the
+    large prawns for which the coast is famous, eight or ten inches
+    long, and with antenn&aelig; of twelve or fourteen inches in
+    length. They make up in size for want of quality, for they are
+    insipid and tasteless, though, being tender, they make
+    excellent curry. The oysters, on the other hand, are
+    particularly small, but of the most delicious flavour. They are
+    brought from a park, higher up the bay, where, as I have said,
+    they grow on posts and the branches of the mangrove-tree,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 50<a name="Page_50"
+       id="Page_50"></a></span> which hang down into the water. We
+       also saw a large quantity of fine mackerel, a good many
+       turtle and porpoises, and a few hammer-headed sharks. The
+       latter are very curious creatures, not unlike an ordinary
+       shark, but with a remarkable hammer-shaped projection on
+       either side of their noses for which it is difficult to
+       imagine a use.</p>
+
+    <p>In the fruit-market were many familiar bright-coloured
+    fruits; for it is now the depth of winter at Rio, and the
+    various kinds that we saw were all such as would bear transport
+    to England. Fat, jet-black negresses, wearing turbans on their
+    heads, strings of coloured beads on their necks and arms, and
+    single long white garments, which appeared to be continually
+    slipping off their shoulders, here presided over
+    brilliant-looking heaps of oranges, bananas, pineapples,
+    passion-fruit, tomatoes, apples, pears, capsicums and peppers,
+    sugar-cane, cabbage-palms, cherimoyas, and bread-fruit.</p>
+
+    <p>In another part of the market all sorts of live birds were
+    for sale, with a few live beasts, such as deer, monkeys, pigs,
+    guinea-pigs in profusion, rats, cats, dogs, marmosets, and a
+    dear little lion-monkey, very small and rather red, with a
+    beautiful head and mane, who roared exactly like a real lion in
+    miniature. We saw also cages full of small flamingoes, snipe of
+    various kinds, and a great many birds of smaller size, with
+    feathers of all shades of blue, red, and green, and metallic
+    hues of brilliant lustre, besides parrots, macaws, cockatoos
+    innumerable, and torchas, on stands. The torcha is a
+    bright-coloured black and yellow bird, about as big as a
+    starling, which puts its little head on one side and takes
+    flies from one's fingers in the prettiest and most enticing
+    manner. Unfortunately, it is impossible to introduce it into
+    England, as it cannot stand the change of climate. The other
+    birds included guinea-fowls, ducks, cocks and hens, pigeons,
+    doves, quails, &amp;c., and many other varieties less familiar
+    or quite unknown to us. Altogether <span class="pagenum">Page
+    51<a name="Page_51"
+       id="Page_51"></a></span>the visit was an extremely
+       interesting one, and well repaid us for our early
+       rising.</p>
+
+    <p>At eleven o'clock we started for the Petropolis steamer,
+    which took us alongside a wooden pier, from the end of which
+    the train started, and we were soon wending our way through
+    sugar and coffee plantations, formed in the midst of the forest
+    of palms and other tropical trees. An Englishman has made a
+    large clearing here, and has established a fine farm, which he
+    hopes to work successfully by means of immigrant labour.</p>
+
+    <p>After a journey of twenty minutes in the train, we reached
+    the station, at the foot of a hill, where we found several
+    four-mule carriages awaiting our arrival. The drive up from the
+    station to the town, over a pass in the Organ mountains, was
+    superb. At each turn of the road we had an ever-varying view of
+    the city of Rio and its magnificent bay. And then the banks of
+    this tropical high-road! From out a mass of rich verdure grew
+    lovely scarlet begonias, and spotted caladiums, shaded by
+    graceful tree-ferns and overhung by trees full of exquisite
+    parasites and orchids. Among these, the most conspicuous, after
+    the palms, are the tall thin-stemmed sloth-trees, so called
+    from their being a favourite resort of the sloth, who with
+    great difficulty crawls up into one of them, remains there
+    until he has demolished every leaf, and then passes on to the
+    next tree.</p>
+
+    <p>The pace of the mules, up the steep incline, under a
+    broiling sun, was really wonderful. Half-way up we stopped to
+    change, at a buvette, where we procured some excellent Brazilia
+    coffee, of fine but exceedingly bitter flavour. Our next halt,
+    midway between the buvette and the top of the hill, was at a
+    spring of clear sparkling water, where we had an opportunity of
+    collecting some ferns and flowers; and on reaching the summit
+    we stopped once more, to enjoy the fine view over the Pass and
+    the bay of Nictheroy. The descent towards Petropolis then
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 52<a name="Page_52"
+       id="Page_52"></a></span>commenced; it lies in the hollow of
+       the hills, with a river flowing through the centre of its
+       broad streets, on either side of which are villas and
+       avenues of noble trees. Altogether it reminded me of
+       Bagn&egrave;res-de-Luchon, in the Pyrenees, though the
+       general effect is unfortunately marred by the gay and rather
+       too fantastic painting of some of the houses.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, August 22nd</i>.&mdash;We were called at
+    half-past five, and, after a hasty breakfast, started on
+    horseback by seven o'clock for the Virgin Forest, about six
+    miles from Petropolis. After leaving the town and its suburbs,
+    we pursued our way by rough winding paths, across which huge
+    moths and butterflies flitted, and humming-birds buzzed in the
+    almond-trees. After a ride of an hour and a half, we entered
+    the silence and gloom of a vast forest. On every side extended
+    a tangled mass of wild, luxuriant vegetation: giant-palms, and
+    tree-ferns, and parasites are to be seen in all directions,
+    growing wherever they can find root-hold. Sometimes they kill
+    the tree which they favour with their attentions&mdash;one
+    creeper, in particular, being called 'Mata-pao' or 'Kill-tree;'
+    but, as a rule, they seem to get on very well together, and to
+    depend mutually upon one another for nourishment and support.
+    The most striking of these creepers is, perhaps, the liane,
+    whose tendrils grow straight downwards to the ground, twisting
+    themselves together in knots and bundles. Occasionally one
+    sees, suspended from a tree, at a height of some fifty feet, a
+    large lump of moss, from which scarlet orchids are growing;
+    looking like an enormous hanging flower-basket. All colours in
+    Brazil, whether of birds, insects, or flowers, are brilliant in
+    the extreme. Blue, violet, orange, scarlet, and yellow are
+    found in the richest profusion, and no pale or faint tints are
+    to be seen. Even white seems purer, clearer, and deeper than
+    the white of other countries.</p>
+
+    <p>We had a long wet walk in the forest; the mosses and ferns
+    being kept moist and green by the innumerable little
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 53<a name="Page_53"
+       id="Page_53"></a></span>streams of water which abound
+       everywhere. Owing to the thickness of the surrounding
+       jungle, it was impossible to stray from our very narrow
+       path, notwithstanding the attractions of humming-birds,
+       butterflies, and flowers. At last we came to an opening in
+       the wood, whence we had a splendid view seawards, and where
+       it was decided to turn round and retrace our steps through
+       the forest. After walking some distance we found our horses
+       waiting, and after a hot but pleasant ride reached
+       Petropolis by twelve o'clock, in time for breakfast.
+       Letter-writing and butterfly-catching occupied the afternoon
+       until four o'clock, when I was taken out for a drive in a
+       comfortable little phaeton, with a pretty pair of horses,
+       while the rest of the party walked out to see a little more
+       of Petropolis and its environs. We drove past the Emperor's
+       palace&mdash;an Italian villa, standing in the middle of a
+       large garden&mdash;the new church, and the houses of the
+       principal inhabitants, most of which are shut up just now,
+       as everybody is out of town, but it all looked very green
+       and pleasant. It was interesting to see a curious breed of
+       dogs, descended from the bloodhounds formerly used in
+       hunting the poor Indians.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, August 23rd</i>.&mdash;At six o'clock we
+    assembled all on the balcony of the hotel to wait for the
+    coach, which arrived shortly afterwards. There was some little
+    delay and squabbling before we all found ourselves safely
+    established on the coach, but starting was quite another
+    matter, for the four white mules resolutely refused to move,
+    without a vast amount of screaming and shouting and plunging.
+    We had to pull up once or twice before we got clear of the
+    town, to allow more passengers to be somehow or other squeezed
+    in, and at each fresh start similar objections on the part of
+    the mules had to be overcome.</p>
+
+    <p>The air felt fresh when we started, but before we had
+    proceeded far we came into a thick, cold, wet fog, which, after
+    the heat of the last few weeks, seemed to pierce us to the very
+    marrow. Eight miles farther on the four frisky
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 54<a name="Page_54"
+       id="Page_54"></a></span>white mules were exchanged for five
+       steady dun-coloured ones, which were in their turn replaced
+       after a seven-mile stage by four nice bays, who took us
+       along at a tremendous pace. The sun began by this time to
+       penetrate the mist, and the surrounding country became
+       visible. We found that we were following the course of the
+       river, passing through an avenue of coral-trees, loaded with
+       the most brilliant flowers and fruit imaginable, and full of
+       parroquets and fluttering birds of many hues.</p>
+
+    <p>We stopped at several small villages, and at about 11 a.m.
+    reached Entre Rios, having changed mules seven times, and done
+    the 59-1/2 miles in four hours and fifty minutes, including
+    stoppages&mdash;pretty good work, especially as the heat during
+    the latter portion of the journey had been as great as the cold
+    was at the commencement. The term 'cold' must here be taken
+    only in a relative sense, for the thermometer was never lower
+    than 48&deg;, though, having been accustomed for a long while
+    to 85&deg;, we felt the change severely.</p>
+
+    <p>After a capital breakfast at the inn near the station, we
+    got into the train and began a very hot dusty journey over the
+    Serra to Palmeiras, which place was reached at 4 p.m. We were
+    met on our arrival by Dr. Gunning, who kindly made room for Tom
+    and me at his house, the rest of our party proceeding to the
+    hotel. The view from the windows of the house, which is
+    situated on the very edge of a hill, over the mountains of the
+    Serra, glowing with the light of the setting sun, was perfectly
+    enchanting; and after a refreshing cold bath one was able to
+    appreciate it as it deserved. A short stroll into the forest
+    adjoining the house proved rich in treasures, for in a few
+    minutes I had gathered twenty-six varieties of ferns, including
+    gold and silver ferns, two creeping ferns, and many other
+    kinds. The moon rose, and the fireflies flashed about among the
+    palm-trees, as we sat in the verandah before dinner, while in
+    several places on the distant hills we could see circles of
+    bright <span class="pagenum">Page 55<a name="Page_55"
+       id="Page_55"></a></span>flames, where the forest had been
+       set on fire in order to make clearings.</p>
+
+    <p>We were up next morning in time to see the sun rise from
+    behind the mountains, and as it gradually became warmer the
+    humming-birds and butterflies came out and buzzed and flitted
+    among the flowers in front of our windows. We had planned to
+    devote the day to a visit to Barra, and it was, therefore,
+    necessary to hurry to the station by eight o'clock to meet the
+    train, where we stopped twenty minutes to breakfast at what
+    appeared to be a capital hotel, built above the station. The
+    rooms were large and lofty, everything was scrupulously clean,
+    and the dishes most appetising-looking. Our carriage was then
+    shunted and hooked on to the other train, and we proceeded to
+    the station of Santa Anna, where Mr. Faro met us with eight
+    mules and horses, and a large old-fashioned carriage, which
+    held some of us, the rest of the party galloping on in front.
+    We galloped also, and upset one unfortunate horse, luckily
+    without doing him any harm. After a couple of miles of a rough
+    road we arrived at the gates of the Baron's grounds, where the
+    old negro slave-coachman amused us very much by <i>ordering</i>
+    his young master to conduct the equestrians round to the house
+    by another way. Beneath the avenue of palm-trees, leading from
+    the gates to the house, grew orange, lemon, and citron trees,
+    trained as espaliers, while behind them again tall rose-bushes
+    and pomegranates showed their bright faces. Driving through an
+    archway we arrived at the house, and, with much politeness and
+    many bows, were conducted indoors, in order that we might rest
+    ourselves and get rid of some of the dust of our journey.</p>
+
+    <p>Santa Anna is one of the largest coffee fazendas in this
+    part of Brazil. The house occupies three sides of a square, in
+    the middle of which heaps of coffee were spread out to dry in
+    the sun. The centre building is the dwelling-house, with a
+    narrow strip of garden, full of sweet-smelling flowers,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 56<a name="Page_56"
+       id="Page_56"></a></span>in front of it; the right wing is
+       occupied by the slaves' shops and warehouses, and by the
+       chapel; while the left wing contains the stables, domestic
+       offices, and other slave-rooms.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_071"
+             id="Illus_071"></a> <img src="images/t_071.jpg"
+             width="167"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: The Slave Village, Fazenda, Santa Anna"
+             title="Illustration: The Slave Village, Fazenda, Santa Anna" />
+        <br />
+        <b>The Slave Village, Fazenda, Santa Anna</b><br />
+        <a href="images/071.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>By law, masters are bound to give their slaves one day's
+    rest in every seven, and any work the slaves may choose to do
+    on that day is paid for at the same rate as free labour. But
+    the day selected for this purpose is not necessarily Sunday;
+    and on adjoining fazendas different days are invariably chosen,
+    in order to prevent the slaves from meeting and getting into
+    mischief. Thursday (to-day) was Sunday on this estate, and we
+    soon saw all the slaves mustering in <span class="pagenum">Page
+    57<a name="Page_57"
+       id="Page_57"></a></span> holiday attire in the shade of one
+       of the verandahs. They were first inspected, and then ranged
+       in order, the children being placed in front, the young
+       women next, then the old women, the old men, and finally the
+       young men. In this order they marched into the corridor
+       facing the chapel, to hear mass. The priest and his acolyte,
+       in gorgeous robes, performed the usual service, and the
+       slaves chanted the responses in alternate companies, so that
+       sopranos, contraltos, tenors, and basses, contrasted in a
+       striking and effective manner. The singing, indeed, was
+       excellent; far better than in many churches at home. After
+       the conclusion of the mass the master shook hands with
+       everybody, exchanged good wishes with his slaves, and
+       dismissed them. While they were dawdling about, gossiping in
+       the verandah, I had a closer look at the babies, which had
+       all been brought to church. They seemed of every shade of
+       colour, the complexions of some being quite fair, but the
+       youngest, a dear little woolly-headed thing, was black as
+       jet, and only three weeks old. The children all seemed to be
+       on very good terms with their master and his overseers, and
+       not a bit afraid of them. They are fed most liberally, and
+       looked fat and healthy. For breakfast they have coffee and
+       bread; for dinner, fresh pork alternately with dried beef,
+       and black beans (the staple food of the poor of this
+       country); and for supper they have coffee, bread, and
+       mandioca, or tapioca.</p>
+
+    <p>Returning to the house, we sat down, a party of thirty, to
+    an elaborate breakfast, the table being covered with all sorts
+    of Brazilian delicacies, after which several complimentary
+    speeches were made, and we all started off to walk round the
+    fazenda. Our first visit was to the little schoolchildren,
+    thirty-four in number, who sang very nicely. Then to the
+    hospital, a clean, airy building, in which there were happily
+    but few patients, and next we inspected the new machinery,
+    worked by water-power, for cleaning the coffee and preparing it
+    for market. The harvest lasts from May to August. The best
+    quality of coffee is picked before it is
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 58<a name="Page_58"
+       id="Page_58"></a></span>quite ripe, crushed to free it from
+       the husk, and then dried in the sun, sometimes in heaps, and
+       sometimes raked out flat, in order to gain the full benefit
+       of the heat. It is afterwards gathered up into baskets and
+       carefully picked over, and this, being very light work, is
+       generally performed by young married women with babies.
+       There were nineteen tiny piccaninnies, in baskets, beside
+       their mothers, in one room we entered, and in another there
+       were twenty just able to run about.</p>
+
+    <p>Cassava is an important article of food here, and it was
+    interesting to watch the various processes by which it is
+    turned into flour, tapioca, or starch. As it is largely
+    exported, there seems no reason why it should not be introduced
+    into India, for the ease with which it is cultivated and
+    propagated, the extremes of temperature it will bear, and the
+    abundance of its crop, all tend to recommend it. We went on to
+    look at the maize being shelled, crushed, and ground into
+    coarse or fine flour, for cakes and bread, and the process of
+    crushing the sugar-cane, turning its juice into sugar and rum,
+    and its refuse into potash. All the food manufactured here is
+    used on the estate; coffee alone is exported. I felt thoroughly
+    exhausted by the time we returned to the house, only to
+    exchange adieus and step into the carriage on our way to Barra
+    by rail <i>en route</i> to Rio de Janeiro. After passing
+    through several long tunnels at the top of the Serra, the line
+    drops down to Palmeiras, after which the descent became very
+    picturesque, as we passed, by steep inclines, through virgin
+    forests full of creepers, ferns, flowers, and orchids. The
+    sunset was magnificent, and the subsequent coolness of the
+    atmosphere most grateful. Leaving the Emperor's palace of
+    S&atilde;o Christov&atilde;o behind, Rio was entered from a
+    fresh side. It seemed a long drive through the streets to the
+    H&ocirc;tel de l'Europe, where, after an excellent though
+    hurried dinner, we contrived to be in time for a private
+    representation at the Alcazar. As a rule, ladies do not go to
+    this theatre, but there were a good many there
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 59<a name="Page_59"
+       id="Page_59"></a></span>on the present occasion. Neither the
+       play nor the actors, however, were very interesting, and all
+       our party were excessively tired; so we left early, and had
+       a delightful row off to the yacht, in the bright
+       moonlight.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, August 28th</i>.&mdash;We have all been so much
+    interested in the advertisements we read in the daily papers of
+    slaves to be sold or hired, that arrangements were made with a
+    Brazilian gentleman for some of our party to have an
+    opportunity of seeing the way in which these transactions are
+    carried on. No Englishman is allowed to hold slaves here, and
+    it is part of the business of the Legation to see that this law
+    is strictly enforced. The secrets of their trade are
+    accordingly jealously guarded by the natives, especially from
+    the English. The gentlemen had therefore to disguise themselves
+    as much as possible, one pretending to be a rich Yankee, who
+    had purchased large estates between Santos and San Paulo, which
+    he had determined to work with slave instead of coolie labour.
+    He was supposed to have come to Rio to select some slaves, but
+    would be obliged to see and consult his partner before deciding
+    on purchase. They were taken to a small shop in the city, and,
+    after some delay, were conducted to a room upstairs, where they
+    waited a quarter of an hour. Twenty-two men and eleven women
+    and children were then brought in for inspection. They declared
+    themselves suitable for a variety of occupations, in-door and
+    out, and all appeared to look anxiously at their possible
+    purchaser, with a view to ascertain what they had to hope for
+    in the future. One couple in particular, a brother and sister,
+    about fourteen and fifteen years old respectively, were most
+    anxious not to be separated, but to be sold together; and the
+    tiny children seemed quite frightened at being spoken to or
+    touched by the white men. Eight men and five women having been
+    specially selected as fit subjects for further consideration,
+    the visit terminated.</p>
+
+    <p>The daily Brazilian papers are full of advertisements of
+    slaves for sale, and descriptions of men, pigs, children,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 60<a name="Page_60"
+       id="Page_60"></a></span>cows, pianos, women, houses,
+       &amp;c., to be disposed of, are inserted in the most
+       indiscriminate manner. In one short half-column of the
+       'Jornal do Commercio,' published within the last day or two,
+       the following announcements, amongst many similar ones,
+       appear side by side:&mdash;</p>
+
+    <div style="font-size:90%;">
+        <table cellspacing="0"
+               cellpadding="4"
+               border="2"
+               frame="hsides"
+               summary="Advertisements (English translations in right column)">
+        <tr>
+                <td valign="top">VENDE-SE uma escrava, de 22
+                annos,<br />
+                boa figura, lava, engomma e cose bem;<br />
+                informa-se na rua de S. Pedro n. 97.</td>
+
+                <td>FOR SALE.&mdash;A female slave, 22 years
+                of<br />
+                age, a good figure, washes, irons, and<br />
+                sews well; for particulars apply at No. 97<br />
+                rua de S. Pedro</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td>VENDE-SE ou aluga-se um rico piano<br />
+                forte do autor Erard, de 3 cordas, por<br />
+                280$, garantido; na rua da Quitanda n. 42,<br />
+                2 andar.</td>
+
+                <td>FOR SALE, OR TO BE LET ON<br />
+                Hire.&mdash;A splendid trichord pianoforte<br />
+                by Erard, for $280, guaranteed; apply at<br />
+                rua da Quitanda No. 42, 2nd floor.</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td>VENDE-SE, por 1,500$, um escravo de<br />
+                20 annos, para servi&ccedil;o de padaria; na<br />
+                rua da Princeza dos Cajueiros n. 97.</td>
+
+                <td>TO BE SOLD FOR $1,500.&mdash;A male<br />
+                slave 20 years of age, fit for a baker's<br />
+                establishment; apply at rua da Princeza dos<br />
+                Cajueiros No. 97.</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td>VENDE-SE uma machina Singer, para<br />
+                qualquer costura, trabalha perfeitamente,<br />
+                por pre&ccedil;o muito commodo; trata-se<br />
+                na rua do Sab&atilde;o n. 95.</td>
+
+                <td>FOR SALE.&mdash;On very reasonable terms,<br />
+                a Singer's sewing-machine, adapted for<br />
+                any description of work; works splendidly:<br />
+                apply at No. 95 rua do Sab&atilde;o.</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top">VENDE-SE uma preta mo&ccedil;a,
+                boa figura e<br />
+                de muito boa indole, com tres filhos,<br />
+                sendo uma negrinha de 6 annos, um moleque<br />
+                de 5 e uma ingenua de 3, cabenda cozinhar<br />
+                bem, lavar e engommar; na mesma casa<br />
+                vende-se s&oacute; uma negrinha de 12 annos,
+                de<br />
+                conducta afian&ccedil;ada e muito propria
+                para<br />
+                servi&ccedil;o de casa de familia, por ja ter
+                bons<br />
+                principios, tendo vindo de Santa Catharina;<br />
+                na rua da Uruguayana n. 90 sobrado.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top">FOR SALE.&mdash;A good black
+                woman, good<br />
+                figure, good disposition, with three<br />
+                children, who are a little black girl 6 years<br />
+                of age, a black boy of 5, and a child 3<br />
+                years of age; she is a good cook, washes and<br />
+                irons well. At the same house there is
+                likewise<br />
+                for sale a little black girl 12 years of<br />
+                age: her character will be guaranteed; she<br />
+                is well adapted for the service of a family,<br />
+                as she has had a good beginning, having<br />
+                come from Santa Catharina; apply at No.<br />
+                90 rua da Uruguayana, first floor.</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top">VENDE-SE o Diccionario portuguez
+                de<br />
+                Lacerda, em dous grandes volumes, novo,<br />
+                vindo pelo ultimo paquete, por 30$,
+                cust&atilde;o<br />
+                aqui 40$; na rua do Hospicio n. 15, 2&ordm;<br />
+                andar.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top">FOR SALE.&mdash;Lacerda's
+                Portuguese Dictionary,<br />
+                in two large volumes, quite new,<br />
+                arrived by the last mail, price $30, costs
+                here<br />
+                $40; No. 15 rua do Hospicio, 2nd floor.</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top">VENDE-SE uma preta de meia
+                idade,<br />
+                que cozinha, lava, e engomma com
+                perfei&ccedil;&atilde;o;<br />
+                para tratar na rua do Viscande de<br />
+                Ita&uacute;na n. 12.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top">FOR SALE.&mdash;A middle-aged
+                black woman,<br />
+                who is a first-rate cook, washes<br />
+                and irons splendidly; for particulars apply<br />
+                at No. 12 rua do Viscande de Ita&uacute;na
+                No.<br />
+                12.</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top">VENDEM-SE arreios para
+                carrocinhas<br />
+                de p&atilde;o; na rua do General Camara n.<br />
+                86, placa.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top">FOR SALE.&mdash;Harnesses for
+                small carts<br />
+                for delivery of bread; apply at No. 86<br />
+                rua do General Camara.</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top">VENDEM-SE 20 moleques, de 14 a
+                20<br />
+                annos, vindos do Maranh&atilde;o no ultimo<br />
+                vapor; na rua da Prainha n. 72.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top">FOR SALE.&mdash;20 young blacks
+                from 14<br />
+                to 20 years of age just arrived from Maranham<br />
+                by the last steamer; No. 72 rua da<br />
+                Prainha.</td>
+            </tr>
+        </table>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We had many visitors to breakfast to-day, and it was nearly
+    two o'clock before we could set off for the shore <i>en
+    route</i> to Tijuca. We drove nearly as far as the Botanical
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 61<a name="Page_61"
+       id="Page_61"></a></span>Gardens, where it had been arranged
+       that horses should meet us; but our party was such a large
+       one, including children and servants, that some little
+       difficulty occurred at this point in making a fair start. It
+       was therefore late before we started, the clouds were
+       beginning to creep down the sides of the hills, and it had
+       grown very dusk by the time we reached the Chinisi river.
+       Soon afterwards the rain began to come down in such tropical
+       torrents, that our thin summer clothing was soaked through
+       and through long before we reached the Tijuca. At last, to
+       our great joy, we saw ahead of us large plantations of
+       bananas, and then some gas-lights, which exist even in this
+       remote locality. We followed them for some little distance,
+       but my horse appeared to have such a very decided opinion as
+       to the proper direction for us to take, that we finally
+       decided to let him have his own way, for it was by this time
+       pitch dark, and none of us had ever been this road before.
+       As we hoped, the horse knew his own stables, and we soon
+       arrived at the door of White's hotel, miserable, drenched
+       objects, looking forward to a complete change of clothing.
+       Unfortunately the cart with our luggage had not arrived, so
+       it was in clothes borrowed from kind friends that we at last
+       sat down, a party of about forty, to a sort of
+       table-d'h&ocirc;te dinner, and it continued to pour with
+       rain during the whole evening, only clearing up just at
+       bed-time.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, August 29th</i>.&mdash;After all the fine
+    weather we have had lately, it was provoking to find, on
+    getting up this morning, that the rain still came steadily
+    down. Daylight enabled us to see what a quaint-looking place
+    this hotel is. It consists of a series of low wooden detached
+    buildings, mostly one story high, with verandahs on both sides,
+    built round a long courtyard, in the centre of which are a
+    garden and some large trees. It is more like a boarding-house,
+    however, than an hotel, as there is a fixed daily charge for
+    visitors, who have to be provided with a letter of
+    introduction! The situation and gardens are good; it contains
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 62<a name="Page_62"
+       id="Page_62"></a></span>among other luxuries a drawing-room,
+       with a delightful swimming-bath for ladies, and another for
+       gentlemen. A mountain stream is turned into two large square
+       reservoirs, where you can disport yourself under the shade
+       of bananas and palm trees, while orange trees, daturas,
+       poinsettias, and other plants, in full bloom, drop their
+       fragrant flowers into the crystal water. There is also a
+       nice little bathing-house, with a douche outside; and the
+       general arrangements seem really perfect. The views from the
+       walks around the hotel and in the forest above are
+       beautiful, as, indeed, they are from every eminence in the
+       neighbourhood of Rio.</p>
+
+    <p>During the morning, the weather cleared sufficiently for us
+    to go down to 'The Boulders,' huge masses of rock, either of
+    the glacial period, or else thrown out from some mighty volcano
+    into the valley beneath. Here they form great caverns and
+    caves, overhung with creepers, and so blocked up at the
+    entrance, that it is difficult to find the way into them. The
+    effect of the alternate darkness and light, amid twisted
+    creepers, some like gigantic snakes, others neatly coiled in
+    true man-of-war fashion, is very striking and fantastic. Every
+    crevice is full of ferns and orchids and curious plants, while
+    moths and butterflies flit about in every direction. Imagine,
+    if you can, scarlet butterflies gaily spotted, yellow
+    butterflies with orange edgings, butterflies with dark blue
+    velvety-looking upper wings, the under surface studded with
+    bright owl-like peacock eyes, grey Atlas moths, and, crowning
+    beauty of all, metallic blue butterflies, which are positively
+    dazzling, even when seen in a shop, dead. Imagine what they
+    must be like, as they dart hither and thither, reflecting the
+    bright sunshine from their wings, or enveloped in the sombre
+    shade of a forest. Most of them measure from two to ten inches
+    in length from wing to wing, and many others flit about,
+    equally remarkable for their beauty, though not so large.
+    Swallow-tails, of various colours, with tails almost as long,
+    in proportion to their bodies, as those of their feathered
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 63<a name="Page_63"
+       id="Page_63"></a></span>namesakes; god-parents and
+       'eighty-eights,' with the figures 88 plainly marked on the
+       reverse side of their rich blue or crimson wings. In fact,
+       if nature could by any possibility be gaudy, one might
+       almost say that she is so in this part of the world.</p>
+
+    <p>From 'The Boulders' we went down a kind of natural staircase
+    in the rock to the small cascade, which, owing to the recent
+    rains, appeared to the best advantage, the black rocks and
+    thick vegetation forming a fine background to the sheet of
+    flowing white water and foam. Our way lay first through some
+    castor-oil plantations, and then along the side of a stream,
+    fringed with rare ferns, scarlet begonias, and grey ageratum.
+    We returned to the hotel, too late for the general luncheon,
+    and, after a short rest, went out for a gallop in the direction
+    of the peak of Tijuca, past the large waterfall, the 'Ladies'
+    Mile,' and 'Grey's View.' The forest is Government property;
+    the roads are therefore excellent, and are in many places
+    planted with flowers and shrubs, rare even here. It seems a
+    waste of money, however; for there is hardly any one to make
+    use of the wide roads, and the forest would appear quite as
+    beautiful in its pristine luxuriance. To our eyes the addition
+    of flowers from other countries is no improvement, though the
+    feeling is otherwise here. More than once I have had a bouquet
+    of common stocks given to me as a grand present, while orchids,
+    gardenias, stephanotis, large purple, pink, and white azaleas,
+    orange-blossom, and roses, were growing around in unheeded
+    profusion.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, August 30th</i>.&mdash;Once more a wet
+    morning; but as it cleared towards noon, we ordered horses and
+    some luncheon, and went up to Pedro Bonito. The ride was
+    pleasant enough at first, but as we mounted higher and higher,
+    we got into the clouds and lost the view. Finally, there seemed
+    nothing for it but to halt near the top, under a grove of
+    orange-trees, lunch in the pouring rain, and return without
+    having reached the summit.<span class="pagenum">Page
+    64<a name="Page_64"
+       id="Page_64"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, September 1st</i>.&mdash;At three o'clock this
+    morning, when I awoke, I saw at last a bright, clear sky, and
+    at five, finding that there was every prospect of a beautiful
+    sunrise, we sent for horses, ate our early breakfast, and set
+    off for the peak of Tijuca. Step by step we climbed, first
+    through the grounds of the hotel, then through the forest, till
+    we reached 'The Bamboos,' a favourite halting-place, by the
+    side of a stream, near which grow, in waving tufts, the
+    graceful trees which lend their name to the spot. It was very
+    beautiful in the hill-side forest, with a new prospect opening
+    out at every step, and set in an ever-varying natural framework
+    of foliage and flowers. There was not sufficient time to
+    linger, however, as we would fain have done, in the cool and
+    shady paths, occasionally illumed by the bright rays of the
+    sun, shining through the foliage of noble palms, the fronds of
+    tree-ferns, and the spiral stems of many-coloured creepers.</p>
+
+    <p>Before reaching the top of the peak, there are twenty-nine
+    wooden and ninety-six stone steps to be ascended, at the foot
+    of which we tied our horses. An iron chain is hung by the side
+    to assist you, without which it would be rather giddy work, for
+    the steps are steep, and there is a sheer precipice on one side
+    of them. Arrived at the top, the scene was glorious; on every
+    side mountains beyond mountains stretch far away into the
+    distance, and one can see as far north as Cape Frio, and
+    southwards as far as Rio Grande do Sul, while beneath lies the
+    bay of Rio, with its innumerable islands, islets, and
+    indentations. All too soon we had to scramble down again, and
+    mount our horses for a hurried return to the hotel, there being
+    barely time for lunch and a scramble to the yacht.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, September 4th</i>.&mdash;We were all up very
+    early this morning, superintending the preparations for our
+    eldest boy's departure for England. The yacht had been gaily
+    dressed with flags, in honour of the anniversary of the
+    Emperor's wedding-day; but it must be confessed that
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 65<a name="Page_65"
+       id="Page_65"></a></span>our own feelings were hardly in
+       accordance with these external symbols of joy. Breakfast was
+       a melancholy meal, and I fear that the visitors from the
+       'Volage' were not very well entertained. After breakfast, we
+       went ashore to the market, to get a couple of lion-monkeys,
+       which had been kept for us, and which Tab was to take home
+       with him to present to the Zoological Gardens. At one
+       o'clock the steam-launch from the 'Volage' came alongside
+       and embarked the luggage and servants. Half an hour later it
+       returned for us; then came many tearful farewells to the
+       crew, and we set off. We knew the parting had to be made,
+       but this did not lessen our grief: for although it is at all
+       times hard to say good-bye for a long period to those
+       nearest and dearest to you, it is especially so in a foreign
+       land, with the prospect of a long voyage on both sides.
+       Moreover, it is extremely uncertain when we shall hear of
+       our boy's safe arrival; not, I fear, until we get to
+       Valparaiso, and then only by telegram&mdash;a long time to
+       look forward to. Over the next half-hour I had better draw a
+       veil.</p>
+
+    <p>At two o'clock precisely, just after we had left the
+    steamer, the starting bell rang, and the 'Cotopaxi' steamed
+    away. As she passed the yacht, all our flags were dipped and
+    the guns fired. Then we could see her rolling on the bar, for,
+    calm as the water was in the bay, there was a heavy swell
+    outside; and then, all too soon, we lost sight of her, as she
+    sank,</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span>' ... with all we love, below the
+            verge.'<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We heard to-day that, the Saturday before our first arrival
+    at Rio, the bar was quite impassable, even for a man-of-war,
+    and that, although she succeeded the next day, the sea was
+    extremely rough.</p>
+
+    <p>On our return to the 'Sunbeam,' I went to bed to rest, and
+    the remainder of the party went ashore. A great many visitors
+    came on board in the course of the afternoon; some remained to
+    dine with us. At half-past nine we all went on shore again to a
+    ball at the Casino, the grand <span class="pagenum">Page
+    66<a name="Page_66"
+       id="Page_66"></a></span>public room in Rio, to which we had
+       been invited some days ago. It seemed a splendid place,
+       beautifully decorated in white and gold and crimson, with
+       frescoes and pictures let into the walls, and surrounded by
+       galleries. It is capable of containing fifteen hundred
+       persons, and I believe that there were even more than that
+       number present on the occasion of the ball given to the Duke
+       of Edinburgh some years ago. The arrangement of the large
+       cloakrooms, refreshment-rooms, and passages downstairs, and
+       the balconies and supper-rooms upstairs, is very convenient.
+       The ball this evening being comparatively a small affair,
+       the lower rooms only were used, and proved amply sufficient.
+       There were not a great many ladies present, but amongst
+       those we saw some were extremely pretty, and all were
+       exquisitely dressed in the latest fashions from Paris. The
+       toilettes of the younger ones looked fresh and simple, while
+       those of the married ladies displayed considerable richness
+       and taste; for although Brazilian ladies do not go out much,
+       and, as a rule, remain <i>en peignoir</i> until late in the
+       afternoon, they never fail to exhibit great judgment in the
+       selection of their costumes.</p>
+
+    <p>The floor was excellent, but the band made rather too much
+    noise, and the dancing was different, both in style and
+    arrangement, from what we are accustomed to at home.</p>
+
+    <p>The time had now come when we had to say farewell to the
+    many kind friends whom we have met here, and who have made life
+    so pleasant to us during the last three weeks, in order that we
+    might return to the yacht, to complete our preparation for an
+    early start. The last leave-takings were soon over, and, with
+    mutually expressed hopes that we might ere long meet some of
+    our friends in England, Tom and I drove off, in the bright
+    moonlight, to the quay, where our boat was waiting for us. The
+    other members of our party found the attractions of the ball so
+    irresistible that they were unable to tear themselves away
+    until a much later nour.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_082"
+             id="Illus_082"></a> <img src="images/t_082.jpg"
+             width="237"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: The Three Navigators"
+             title="Illustration: The Three Navigators" /><br />
+        <b>The Three Navigators</b><br />
+        <a href="images/082.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 67<a name="Page_67"
+       id="Page_67"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_V"
+       id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">THE RIVER PLATE.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>Blue, glossy green, and velvet
+            black</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>They coiled and swam;
+            and every track</i><br /></span> <span><i>Was a flash
+            of golden fire</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, September 5th</i>.&mdash;We got under way at 6
+    a.m., and soon bade adieu to Rio, where we have spent so many
+    happy days, and to our friends on board H.M.S. 'Volage' and
+    'Ready,' with whom we interchanged salutes in passing. It was a
+    dull wet morning, and we could not see much of the beauties we
+    were leaving behind us. The peak of Tijuca and the summit of
+    the Corcovado were scarcely visible, and the Sugarloaf and
+    Gavia looked cold and grey in the early mist. It was not long
+    before we were rolling on the bar, and then tumbling about in
+    very uncomfortable fashion in the rough sea outside. One by one
+    we all disappeared below, where most of us remained
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 68<a name="Page_68"
+       id="Page_68"></a></span>during the greater part of the day.
+       As for me, I went to bed for good at six o'clock in the
+       evening, but was called up again at ten, to see some large
+       bonitos playing about the bows of the yacht. It was really
+       worth the trouble of getting up and climbing quite into the
+       bows of the vessel to watch them, as they gambolled and
+       frisked about, brightly illumined by the phosphorescence of
+       the water, now swimming together steadily in pairs or fours,
+       now starting in sudden pursuit of one of their number, who
+       would make an independent rush forward in advance of his
+       companions.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, September 9th</i>.&mdash;The last three days
+    have been showery, with squalls which have freshened to a gale,
+    and we are now scudding along, under all storm canvas, followed
+    by crowds of cape-pigeons and cape-hens, and a few albatrosses.
+    Towards this evening, however, the wind fell light, and we got
+    up steam, in order to be prepared for any emergency, as a calm
+    is frequently succeeded on this coast by a <i>pampero</i>, and
+    we are now approaching a lee shore.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, September 10th</i>.&mdash;Tom has been on deck
+    nearly all night. The shore is very low and difficult to
+    distinguish, and the lights are badly kept. If the
+    lighthouse-keeper happens to have plenty of oil, and is not out
+    shooting or fishing, he lights his lamp; otherwise, he omits to
+    perform this rather important part of his duties. The
+    lighthouses can therefore hardly be said to be of much use.
+    About 5 a.m. Kindred rushed down into our cabin, and woke Tom,
+    calling out, 'Land to leeward, sir!' and then rushed up on deck
+    again. The first glimmer of dawn had enabled him to see that we
+    were running straight on to the low sandy shore, about three
+    miles off, a very strong current having set us ten miles out of
+    our course. The yacht's head was accordingly at once put round,
+    and steaming seaward we soon left all danger behind. The sun
+    rose brilliantly, and the weather during the day was very fine.
+    Morning <span class="pagenum">Page 69<a name="Page_69"
+       id="Page_69"></a></span>service was impossible, owing to the
+       necessity for a constant observation of the land; but, after
+       making the lighthouse on Santa Maria, we had prayers at 4.30
+       p.m., with the hymn, 'For those at Sea.' In the night we
+       made the light on Flores, burning brightly, and before
+       morning those in the harbour of Monte Video.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, September 11th</i>.&mdash;After making the Flores
+    light we proceeded slowly, and dropped our anchor in the outer
+    roads of Monte Video at 4 a.m. At seven o'clock we got it up
+    again, and by eight were anchored close to the shore. We found
+    that our arrival was expected, and the health-officers' boat
+    was soon alongside. Next came an officer from the United
+    States' man-of-war 'Frolic,' with polite messages and offers of
+    service; and then a steam-launch belonging to the Pacific
+    Company, and another from the Consul, Major Monro, with piles
+    of letters and newspapers for us.</p>
+
+    <p>Monte Video, as seen from the water, is not an
+    imposing-looking place. On the opposite side of the entrance to
+    the harbour rises a hill, called the Cerro, 450 feet high, from
+    which the town derives its name, and further inland, on the
+    town side, is another eminence, 200 feet high, called the
+    Cerrito. With these exceptions the surrounding country looks
+    perfectly flat, without even a tree to break the monotony.</p>
+
+    <p>Soon after breakfast we went ashore&mdash;in more senses of
+    the word than one; for they have commenced to build a mole for
+    the protection of small vessels, which, in its unfinished
+    state, is not yet visible above the water. The consequence was
+    that, at a distance of about half a mile from the
+    landing-steps, we rowed straight on to the submerged stonework,
+    but fortunately got off again very quickly, without having
+    sustained any damage. On landing, we found ourselves opposite
+    the Custom House, a fine building, with which we afterwards
+    made a closer acquaintance.<span class="pagenum">Page
+    70<a name="Page_70"
+       id="Page_70"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>There is a large and very good hotel here, l'H&ocirc;tel
+    Oriental. It is a handsome building outside, and the interior
+    is full of marble courts, stone corridors, and lofty rooms,
+    deliciously cool in the hottest weather. Having procured a
+    carriage, Tom and I and the children drove through the streets,
+    which are wide and handsome, though badly paved, and so full of
+    holes that it is a wonder how the springs of a carriage can
+    last a week. The houses seem built chiefly in the Italian style
+    of architecture, with fine stucco fronts, and in many cases
+    marble floors and facings, while the courtyards, seen through
+    the grilles, blazed with flowers. All the lower windows were
+    strongly barred, a precaution by no means unnecessary against
+    the effects of the revolutions, which are of such frequent
+    occurrence in this country. To enable the inhabitants the
+    better to enjoy the sea-breeze, the tops of the houses are all
+    flat, which gives the town, from a distance, somewhat of an
+    eastern appearance. There are a great many Italian immigrants
+    here, and most of the building and plastering work is done by
+    them.</p>
+
+    <p>The Paseo del Molino is the best part of the town, where all
+    the rich merchants reside in quintas, surrounded by pretty
+    gardens. They are very fantastic in their ideas of
+    architectural style, and appear to bestow their patronage
+    impartially, not to say indiscriminately, upon Gothic
+    cathedrals, Alhambra palaces, Swiss cottages, Italian villas,
+    and Turkish mosques. Except for this variety, the suburb has
+    somewhat the appearance of the outskirts of many of the towns
+    on the Riviera, with the same sub-tropical surroundings. These
+    are, however, hard times on the River Plate, and more than half
+    the quintas are deserted and falling into ruins. On our way
+    back, by the Union Road, we met a great many of the native
+    bullock-carts going home from market. These huge conveyances
+    are covered with hides, and are drawn by teams of from two to
+    twelve bullocks, yoked in pairs, and driven
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 71<a name="Page_71"
+       id="Page_71"></a></span> by a man on horseback, who carries
+       a sharp-pointed goad, with which he prods the animals all
+       round, at intervals. Dressed in a full white linen shirt and
+       trousers, with his bright poncho and curious saddle-gear, he
+       forms no unimportant figure in the picturesque scene. In the
+       large market-place there are hundreds of these carts, with
+       their owners encamped around them.</p>
+
+    <p>When we at last arrived on board the yacht again, at three
+    o'clock, we found that the miseries of coaling were not yet
+    over, and that there had been numerous visitors from the shore.
+    Everything on deck looked black, while below all was pitch dark
+    and airless, every opening and crevice having been closed and
+    covered with tarpaulin, to keep out the coal dust. It took
+    seven hours to complete the work, instead of two, as was hoped
+    and promised, so our chance of starting to-day is over. This
+    seemed the more disappointing, because, had we foreseen the
+    delay, we might have made other arrangements for seeing more on
+    shore.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, September 12th</i>.&mdash;The anchor was up, and
+    we were already beginning to steam away when I came on deck
+    this morning, just in time to see the first faint streaks of
+    dawn appearing in the grey sky. The River Plate here is over a
+    hundred miles wide, and its banks are very flat; so there was
+    nothing to be seen, except the two little hills of Cerro and
+    Cerrito and the town of Monte Video, fast vanishing in the
+    distance. The channels are badly buoyed, and there are shoals
+    and wrecks on all sides. The lightships are simply old hulks,
+    with no special marks by which to distinguish them; and as they
+    themselves look exactly like wrecks, they are not of much
+    assistance in the navigation, which is very confusing, and
+    sometimes perilous. Once we very nearly ran aground, but
+    discovered just in time that the vessel we were steering for
+    with confidence was only a wreck, on a dangerous shoal, and
+    that the lightship itself was further ahead. The yacht was
+    immediately put about, and we just skirted the bank in turning.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 72<a name="Page_72"
+       id="Page_72"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>The weather improved during the day, and a fine sunset was
+    followed by a clear starlight night. At 10.30 p.m. we dropped
+    our anchor outside all the other vessels in the roads at Buenos
+    Ayres, eight miles from the shore. The lightship only carried
+    an ordinary riding light, like any other vessel, so that it was
+    almost impossible, unless you knew the port very well, to go in
+    closer to the land at night.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, September 13th</i>.&mdash;Daylight did not
+    enable us to distinguish the town, for the river here is wide
+    and the banks are low, and we were lying a long way from the
+    shore, outside a great many fine-looking ships, at anchor in
+    the roads. About nine o'clock a German captain, in a large
+    whale-boat, came alongside and told us we were nearly eight
+    miles from Buenos Ayres. Tom arranged with him to take us
+    ashore; and accordingly we soon started. The water was smooth
+    and there was a nice breeze, and we sailed gallantly along for
+    about two hours, until we reached the town. After anchoring, we
+    transshipped ourselves into a small boat, in which we were
+    rowed to some steps, at the end of the long rickety mole, where
+    we landed. Some of the planks of the pier were missing, leaving
+    great holes, big enough to fall through, and others were so
+    loose that when you stepped upon one end of them the other flew
+    up almost into your face.</p>
+
+    <p>Our first business was to secure the services of a pilot, to
+    take us up to Rosario. The best man on the river was sent for;
+    but when he came he did not recommend our undertaking the
+    voyage, as the water is very low at present, and we might get
+    stuck on a sandbank, and be detained for some days, although no
+    further harm would be likely to occur to us. We decided,
+    therefore, as our time is precious, to give up the idea of
+    making the expedition in the yacht, and to go in the ordinary
+    river-boat instead.</p>
+
+    <p>Under the guidance of some gentlemen, we then went to the
+    Central Railway Station to send off some telegrams,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 73<a name="Page_73"
+       id="Page_73"></a></span>and thence to the River Plate Bank.
+       The treasury contains 600,000<i>l</i>. in British
+       sovereigns, locked up in three strong safes, besides
+       paper-money and securities to the amount of
+       2,000,000<i>l</i>. It was the Rosario branch of this bank
+       which was recently robbed of 15,000<i>l</i>. by an armed
+       government force; an unprecedented proceeding in the history
+       of nations, and one that might have led to the interference
+       of foreign powers.</p>
+
+    <p>There was time afterwards to go round and see something of
+    the city, which, like many other South American towns, is built
+    in square blocks, all the streets running exactly at right
+    angles one to another. There is a fine plaza, or grand square,
+    in which are situated the cathedral, theatre, &amp;c., the
+    centre being occupied by a garden, containing statues and
+    fountains. The various banks, with their marble facings,
+    Corinthian columns, and splendid halls, are magnificent
+    buildings, and look more like palaces than places of business.
+    Some of the private houses, too, seem very handsome. Outside
+    they are all faced with marble, to a certain height from the
+    ground, the interior, consisting of courtyard within courtyard,
+    being rather like that of a Pompeian house.</p>
+
+    <p>We next went to the agricultural show, which, though not an
+    imposing affair to our eyes, appeared really very creditable to
+    those who had organised it. The horses and cattle looked small,
+    but there were some good specimens of sheep&mdash;specially the
+    <i>rombonellis</i> and <i>negrettis</i>, whose long fine wool
+    was, however, only to be discovered by first turning aside a
+    thick plaster of mud, beneath which it was concealed. We saw
+    also some curious animals, natives of the country, such as
+    vicu&ntilde;as, llamas, bizcachas, and various kinds of deer, a
+    very mixed lot of poultry and dogs, and two magnificent Persian
+    cats. Another department of the show was allotted to the
+    commercial products of the country, animal, vegetable, and
+    mineral; the whole forming a very interesting collection.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 74<a name="Page_74"
+       id="Page_74"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>In re-embarking, the disagreeable process of this morning
+    had to be repeated&mdash;rickety pier, rotten steps, and small
+    boat included&mdash;before we reached the whale-boat, after
+    which we had an eight miles' sail out to the yacht. It was a
+    cold, dull night, and getting on board proved rather difficult
+    work, owing to the rough sea.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, September 14th</i>.&mdash;The pilot came on
+    board at seven o'clock to take us in nearer the shore, but,
+    after all, we found ourselves obliged to anchor again five
+    miles off. No ship drawing more than ten feet can get inside
+    the sand-banks, which makes it a wretched place to lie in,
+    especially as the weather at this time of year is very
+    uncertain. You may go ashore from your ship on a fine clear
+    morning, and before you return a gale may have sprung up,
+    accompanied by a frightful sea. Open boats are therefore quite
+    unsafe, a state of things which has given rise to the existence
+    of a class of fine boats, specially built for the service,
+    which attend all the ships lying in the roads. They are
+    half-decked, will sail in any weather, and can be easily
+    managed by two men.</p>
+
+    <p>About ten o'clock we went ashore again in the whale-boat,
+    which Tom had engaged to wait on us during our stay, and made
+    the best of our way to a warehouse to look at some ponchos,
+    which are the speciality of this part of South America.
+    Everybody wears one, from the beggar to the highest official.
+    The best kind of ponchos are very expensive, being made from a
+    particular part of the finest hair of the vicu&ntilde;a,
+    hand-woven by women, in the province of Catamarca. The genuine
+    article is difficult to get, even here. In the shops the price
+    usually varies from 30<i>l</i>. to 80<i>l</i>.; but we were
+    shown some at a rather lower price&mdash;from 20<i>l</i>. to
+    60<i>l</i>. each. They are soft as silk, perfectly waterproof,
+    and will wear, it is said, for ever. We met a fine-looking man
+    in one of beautiful quality yesterday. He told us that it
+    originally cost 30<i>l</i>. in Catamarca, twenty years ago, and
+    that he gave 20<i>l</i>. for it, second-hand, ten
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 75<a name="Page_75"
+       id="Page_75"></a></span>years ago; and, with the exception
+       of a few slight tears, it is now as good as ever. Before we
+       came here, we were strongly advised, in case we should
+       happen to go on a rough expedition up country, not to be
+       tempted to take with us any <i>good</i> ponchos, as the
+       Gauchos, or half-bred Indians of the Pampas, who are great
+       connoisseurs of these articles, and can distinguish their
+       quality at a glance, would not hesitate to cut our throats
+       in order to obtain possession of them.</p>
+
+    <p>The material of which they are made is of the closest
+    texture, and as the hair has never been dressed or dyed it
+    retains all its natural oil and original colour, the latter
+    varying from a very pretty yellow fawn to a pale cream-colour.
+    The majority of the ponchos worn here are, however, made at
+    Manchester, of a cheap and inferior material. They look exactly
+    like the real thing at first sight, but are neither so light
+    nor so warm, nor do they wear at all well. Occasionally they
+    are made of silk, but more often of bright-coloured wool. In
+    shape a poncho is simply a square shawl with a hole in the
+    middle for the head of the wearer. On horseback the appearance
+    is particularly picturesque, and it forms also a convenient
+    cloak, which comes well over the saddle, before and behind, and
+    leaves the arms, though covered, perfectly free.</p>
+
+    <p>The natives, as a rule, wear a second poncho, generally of a
+    different colour, tucked into the waistband of their long full
+    linen drawers (<i>calzoncillos</i>), so as to make a pair of
+    short baggy over-trousers. A poor man is content with a shirt,
+    drawers, and two ponchos. A rich man has many rows of fringe
+    and frills of lace at the bottom of his <i>calzoncillos</i>,
+    and wears a short coat, with silver buttons, and a gorgeous
+    silver belt, covered with dollars. His horse-fittings and
+    massive stirrups (to say nothing of his enormous spurs) will be
+    of solid silver, and his arms inlaid with the same metal. He
+    will sometimes give as much as from 10<i>l</i>. to 20<i>l</i>.
+    for a pair of stirrups alone, and the rest of his dress
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 76<a name="Page_76"
+       id="Page_76"></a></span>and equipment is proportionately
+       expensive. The cost of the silver articles is little more
+       than the value of the metal itself, which is of very pure
+       quality, and is only roughly worked by the Indians or
+       Gauchos. But as Manchester provides the ponchos, so does
+       Birmingham the saddlery and fittings, especially those in
+       use in the neighbourhood of towns.</p>
+
+    <p>After inspecting the ponchos, we breakfasted with some
+    friends, and about noon started in the train for Campana. The
+    line passes at first through the streets of Buenos Ayres, and
+    thence into the open country, beautifully green, and undulating
+    like the waves of the sea. Near the town and the suburb of
+    Belgrano are a great many peach-tree plantations, the fruit of
+    which is used for fattening pigs while the wood serves for
+    roasting them. There is also some scrubby brushwood, and a few
+    large native trees; but these are soon left behind, and are
+    succeeded by far-spreading rich pasture land, and occasional
+    lagunes.</p>
+
+    <p>We saw for the first time the holes of the bizcachas, or
+    prairie-dogs, outside which the little prairie-owls keep guard.
+    There appeared to be always one, and generally two, of these
+    birds, standing, like sentinels, at the entrance to each hole,
+    with their wise-looking heads on one side, pictures of prudence
+    and watchfulness. The bird and the beast are great friends, and
+    are seldom to be found apart. We also passed several enormous
+    flocks of sheep and herds of cattle, most of them quite
+    unattended, though some were being driven by men on horseback.
+    There were quantities of plovers, and a great many partridges,
+    of two kinds, large and small, and the numerous lagunes were
+    covered with and surrounded by water-fowl of all
+    kinds&mdash;wild swans and ducks, snipe, white storks, grey
+    herons, black cormorants, and scarlet flamingoes, the
+    last-named standing at the edge of the water, catching fish,
+    and occasionally diving below the surface. On the very top of
+    some of the telegraph-posts were the nests of the oven-bird,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 77<a name="Page_77"
+       id="Page_77"></a></span>looking like carved round blocks of
+       wood, placed there for ornament. These nests are made of
+       mud, and are perfectly spherical in form, the interior being
+       divided into two quite distinct chambers.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_092"
+             id="Illus_092"></a> <img src="images/t_092.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="141"
+             alt="IIllustration: Prairie Dogs and Owls"
+             title="Illustration: Prairie Dogs and Owls" /><br />
+        <b>Prairie Dogs and Owls</b><br />
+        <a href="images/092.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Campana was reached by four o'clock, the train running
+    straight on to the pier, alongside of which the two vessels
+    were lying, with steam up. Passengers, baggage, and freight
+    were immediately transferred from the train to the boats; and
+    we soon found ourselves steaming along in the 'Uruguay,'
+    between the willow-hung banks of the broad Parana. The country,
+    though otherwise flat and uninteresting, looks very pretty just
+    now, in its new spring coat of bright green.</p>
+
+    <p>We passed several small towns, amongst others, San Pedro and
+    San Nicolas, which are quite important-looking places, with a
+    good deal of shipping, and occasionally stopped to pick up
+    passengers, who had come in boats and steam-launches from
+    far-distant villages, situated on lagunes, which our steamer
+    could not enter.</p>
+
+    <p>Just before arriving at each stopping-place, we had a race
+    with the 'Proveedor,' and whenever she became visible at a bend
+    in the river, half a ton more coal was immediately heaped on to
+    our fires by the captain's order&mdash;a piece of
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 78<a name="Page_78"
+       id="Page_78"></a></span>reckless extravagance, for, do what
+       they would, they could not make us gain five minutes. The
+       competition is, however, very fierce, and I suppose the two
+       companies will not be satisfied until they have ruined one
+       another; whereas, if each would run a steamer on alternate
+       days, they and the public would be equally benefited. The
+       fares are exceedingly reasonable, being less than 3<i>l</i>.
+       for the whole journey from Buenos Ayres to Rosario,
+       including all charges.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, September 15th</i>.&mdash;A violent storm of
+    thunder and lightning, apparently just above our heads, woke us
+    at six o'clock this morning. Torrents of rain followed, and
+    continued to fall until we dropped our anchor at Rosario, at
+    8.45 a.m., just as we were in the middle of breakfast, in our
+    cozy little stern cabin. Half an hour later we landed, though
+    the rain still came down in sheets, but the steamer was now
+    alongside the pier, and close carriages had been provided. A
+    few minutes' drive through ill-paved streets brought us to the
+    Hotel Universel, a handsome, spacious building, with marble
+    courtyards, full of trees, plants, and flowers, into which all
+    the sitting-rooms open. Above are galleries, round which the
+    various bed-rooms are in like manner ranged. It all looked nice
+    and cool, and suitable for hot weather, but it was certainly
+    rather draughty and cheerless on such a cold, pouring wet day,
+    and all our efforts to make our large room, in which there were
+    four immense windows, at all comfortable, were vain.</p>
+
+    <p>Rosario, like Buenos Ayres, is built in squares. The streets
+    are generally well paved with black and white marble, but the
+    roadways are composed of little round stones, and are full of
+    holes and inequalities, so that, in crossing the road after
+    heavy rain, one steps from the <i>trottoir</i> into a very
+    slough of despond. The universal tramway runs down the centre
+    of every street.</p>
+
+    <p>After luncheon we made a fresh start for Carcara&ntilde;a by
+    a special train, to which were attached two goods-vans, full of
+    horses, and a carriage truck, containing a most
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 79<a name="Page_79"
+       id="Page_79"></a></span>comfortable American carriage, in
+       shape not unlike a Victoria, only much lighter and with very
+       high wheels. After a short journey through a rich, flat,
+       grass country, we arrived at Roldan, the first colony of the
+       Central Argentine Land Company. Here we all alighted, the
+       horses were taken out of the vans, saddled, bridled, and
+       harnessed, and the gentlemen rode and I drove round the
+       colony, along what are generally roads, but to-day were
+       sheets of water. We saw many colonists, of every grade, from
+       those still occupying the one-roomed wooden cottages,
+       originally supplied by the Land Company, standing in the
+       midst of ill-cultivated fields, to those who had built for
+       themselves good houses in the town, or nice cottages, with
+       pretty gardens, surrounded by well-tilled lands.</p>
+
+    <p>The drive ended at the mill belonging to a retired officer
+    of the British army, who has settled here with his wife and two
+    dear little children. Here we had tea and a pleasant chat, and
+    then returned to the train and proceeded to Carcara&ntilde;a,
+    the next station on the line. Now, however, instead of the rich
+    pasture lands and flourishing crops which we had hitherto seen
+    on all sides, our road lay through a desolate-looking district,
+    bearing too evident signs of the destructive power of the
+    locust. People travelling with us tell us that, less than a
+    week ago, the pasture here was as fresh and green as could be
+    desired, and the various crops were a foot high; but that, in
+    the short space of a few hours, the care and industry of the
+    last ten months were rendered utterly vain and useless, and the
+    poor colonists found their verdant fields converted into a
+    barren waste by these rapacious insects.</p>
+
+    <p>Carcara&ntilde;a may be called the Richmond&mdash;one might
+    almost say the Brighton&mdash;of Rosario. It stands on a river,
+    the Carcara&ntilde;al, to the banks of which an omnibus runs
+    twice a day from the railway-station, during the season, to
+    take people to bathe. Near the station is also an excellent
+    little hotel, containing a large dining-room and a few
+    bed-rooms, <span class="pagenum">Page 80<a name="Page_80"
+       id="Page_80"></a></span>kept by two Frenchwomen; and here
+       the Rosarians come out by train to dine and enjoy the fresh
+       air. It was quite dark by the time we arrived, so that we
+       could not see much of the flourishing little colony which
+       has been formed here. We therefore paddled across the wet
+       road to the inn, where, despite the somewhat rough
+       surroundings, we enjoyed a capital dinner, cooked in the
+       true French style. They are specially celebrated here for
+       their asparagus, but the locusts had devoured all but a very
+       few stalks, besides which they were held responsible, on the
+       present occasion, for the absence of other vegetables and
+       salad. Yesterday there was a grand wedding-party near here,
+       the complete success of which was, we were told, somewhat
+       marred by the fact, that for six hours, in the very middle
+       of the day, it became absolutely necessary to light candles,
+       owing to the dense clouds of locusts, about a league in
+       extent, by which the air was darkened. Trains are even
+       stopped by these insects occasionally; for they appear to
+       like a hard road, and when they get on the line their bodies
+       make the rails so greasy that the wheels of the engines will
+       not bite. Moreover, they completely obscure the lights and
+       signals, so that the men are afraid to proceed. The only
+       remedy, therefore, is to go very slowly, preceded by a
+       truck-load of sand, which is scattered freely over the rails
+       in front of the engine. Horses will not always face a cloud
+       of locusts, even to get to their stables, but turn round and
+       stand doggedly still, until it has passed.</p>
+
+    <p>After dinner we once more stepped into our special train, in
+    which we arrived at Rosario at about half-past nine o'clock,
+    thoroughly tired out.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 81<a name="Page_81"
+       id="Page_81"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_VI"
+       id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">LIFE ON THE PAMPAS.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>There's tempest in yon horned
+            moon</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>And lightning in yon
+            cloud</i>;<br /></span> <span><i>But hark the music,
+            mariners</i>!<br /></span> <span><i>The wind is piping
+            loud</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, September 16th</i>.&mdash;Waking at half-past
+    five, we busied ourselves until nine o'clock, when we again
+    started in a special train for Carcara&ntilde;a. After a short
+    stop at Roldan, it was reached two hours later, and breakfast
+    was followed by a long ride through the Land Company's colony,
+    and from thence to Candelaria, a purely Spanish settlement.</p>
+
+    <p>I freely confess that I had hardly believed all the stories
+    they told me last night about the terrible doings of the
+    locusts, and thought they must have been slightly exaggerated.
+    It all seemed too dreadful to be true&mdash;as if one of the
+    plagues of Egypt had been revived by the wand of an evil
+    magician. In this somewhat incredulous mood I rashly said that,
+    although I was very sorry to hear of the visit of these
+    destructive creatures, as they <i>were</i> unfortunately here,
+    I should like to see them. My wish was shortly to be gratified;
+    for, in the course of our ride, we saw in the distant sky what
+    looked very much like a heavy purple thunder-cloud, but which
+    the experienced pronounced to be a swarm of locusts. It seemed
+    impossible; but as we proceeded they met us, first singly, and
+    then in gradually increasing numbers, until each step became
+    positively painful, owing to the smart blows we received from
+    them on <span class="pagenum">Page 82<a name="Page_82"
+       id="Page_82"></a></span>our heads, faces, and hands. We
+       stopped for a time at Mr. Holt's large estancia, where,
+       notwithstanding the general appearance of prosperity, the
+       traces of the ravages of the locusts were only too visible.
+       On remounting, to proceed on our journey, we found that the
+       cloud had approached much nearer, the effect produced by its
+       varying position being most extraordinary. As the locusts
+       passed between us and the sun they completely obscured the
+       light; a little later, with the sun's rays shining directly
+       on their wings, they looked like a golden cloud, such as one
+       sometimes sees in the transformation scene of a pantomime;
+       and, at a greater distance, when viewed from the top of a
+       slight eminence, they looked like a snow-storm, or a field
+       of snow-white marguerites, which had suddenly taken to
+       themselves wings. When on the ground, with their wings
+       closed, they formed a close mass of little brown specks,
+       completely hiding the ground and crops, both grass and
+       grain. In riding over them, though not a quarter of their
+       number could rise, for want of space in which to spread
+       their wings, they formed such a dense cloud that we could
+       see nothing else, and the horses strongly objected to face
+       them. They got into one's hair and clothes, and gave one the
+       creeps all over. I am sure I shall often dream of them for
+       some time to come, and I have quite made up my mind that I
+       never wish to see another locust as long as I live. I have,
+       however, secured some fine specimens for any one who is
+       curious about them.</p>
+
+    <p>The land we passed through appeared to be well farmed. We
+    spoke to several of the colonists, especially to one Italian
+    family, living in a little mud rancho with a tile roof. They
+    were all gathered together to witness the dying agonies of one
+    of their best cows, perishing from the effects of the drought.
+    The rest of the animals in the corral looked, I am sorry to
+    say, thin and miserable, and as if they intended soon to follow
+    their companion's example. The poor people, nevertheless,
+    seemed very cheery and contented, <span class="pagenum">Page
+    83<a name="Page_83"
+       id="Page_83"></a></span>and hospitably gave us each a drink
+       of some remarkably muddy water.</p>
+
+    <p>After a thirty-mile ride under a hot sun, fortunately on the
+    easiest of horses, we were none of us sorry to stop for a short
+    time at Carcara&ntilde;a, and obtain some refreshment, before
+    proceeding&mdash;horses, carriage, and all&mdash;by train to
+    Rosario, another colony on the line. Arrived at the latter
+    place, I thought I had had enough riding for the first day, and
+    therefore visited the various farms and houses in the carriage,
+    the rest of the party going, as before, on horseback. After a
+    round of about fifteen miles, we returned to the station, where
+    we were kindly received by the sister of the station-master. An
+    excellent dinner was provided for us in the refreshment-room,
+    before we entered our special train, and Rosario was reached at
+    about ten o'clock.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, September 17th</i>.&mdash;A kind friend sent his
+    carriage to take us to the English church, a brick building,
+    built to replace the small iron church that existed here
+    previously, and only opened last month. The service was well
+    performed, and the singing of the choir excellent. We paid a
+    visit to the Sunday schools after luncheon, and then drove to
+    the quinta of Baron Alvear. The road lies through the town,
+    past the race-course, crowded with Gauchos, getting up scratch
+    races amongst themselves, and on, over undulating plains and
+    water-courses, into the open country. Sometimes there was a
+    track, sometimes none. In some places the pastures were
+    luxuriantly green; in others the ground was carpeted with
+    white, lilac, and scarlet verbena, just coming into
+    bloom&mdash;for it is still early spring here. Here and there
+    came a bare patch, completely cleared by the locusts, who had
+    also stripped many of the fine timber trees in the garden of
+    the quinta. On the gate-posts, at the entrance, were the nests
+    of two oven-birds, like those we had already seen on the
+    telegraph-posts, so exactly spherical as to look like
+    ornaments. In one of the shrubberies a fine jaguar was shut up
+    in a cage, who <span class="pagenum">Page 84<a name="Page_84"
+       id="Page_84"></a></span>looked very like a tiger. Though he
+       had evidently just had his dinner, he was watching with
+       greedy interest the proceedings of some natives in charge of
+       a horse&mdash;an animal which he esteems a great delicacy,
+       when procurable.</p>
+
+    <p>On our way across the camp we saw a great quantity of the
+    seeds of the Martynia proboscidea, mouse-burrs as they call
+    them,&mdash;devil's claws or toe-nails: they are
+    curious-looking things, as the annexed woodcut will show.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_099"
+             id="Illus_099"></a> <img src="images/t_099.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="235"
+             alt="Illustration: Devils Horns"
+             title="Illustration: Devils Horns" /><br />
+        <b>Devils Horns</b><br />
+        <a href="images/099.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Frank Buckland has a theory&mdash;and very likely a correct
+    one&mdash;that they are created in this peculiar form for the
+    express purpose of attaching themselves to the long tails of
+    the wild horses that roam about the country in troops of
+    hundreds. They carry them thousands of miles, and disseminate
+    the seed wherever they go at large in search of food and
+    water.</p>
+
+    <p>When we returned to Rosario we noticed a great crowd still
+    on the race-course, and were just in time to see the finish of
+    one race, ridden barebacked, and for a very short distance. All
+    the races are short; and as the natives are always engaging in
+    these little contests of speed, the horses get into the habit
+    of extending themselves directly you put them out of a walk.
+    But the least touch is sufficient to stop them immediately, and
+    I never saw horses better broken than they are here. The most
+    fearful bits are used for the purpose; but when once this is
+    accomplished, the mere inclination of the body, or the
+    slightest pressure of the finger upon the bridle, is sufficient
+    to guide them. They will maintain, for almost any length of
+    time, a quick canter&mdash;what they call here 'a little
+    gallop'&mdash;at the rate of three <span class="pagenum">Page
+    85<a name="Page_85"
+       id="Page_85"></a></span>leagues (ten miles) an hour, without
+       showing the slightest sign of fatigue. They don't like being
+       mounted, and always fidget a little then, but are quite
+       quiet directly you are in the saddle. I rode several horses
+       which had never carried a lady before; but after the first
+       few minutes they did not seem to mind the riding-habit in
+       the least. They evidently dislike standing still, unless you
+       dismount and throw the rein on the ground, when they will
+       remain stationary for hours.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, September 18th</i>.&mdash;The early part of this
+    morning was spent in much the same way as on Saturday, Tom
+    going as before to the Land Company's Office, whilst I remained
+    at home to write.</p>
+
+    <p>At nine o'clock we proceeded to the station, and started in
+    our comfortable railway carriage for Tortugas. We formed quite
+    a large party altogether, and the journey over the now familiar
+    line, past Roldan, Carcara&ntilde;a, and Ca&ntilde;ada de
+    Gomez, was a very pleasant one. At Tortugas we left the train,
+    and paid a visit to one of the overseers of the colony and his
+    cheery little French wife, who, we found, had been expecting us
+    all day on Saturday. A few weeks ago this lady's sister was
+    carried off by Indians, with some other women and children.
+    After riding many leagues, she seized her opportunity, pushed
+    the Indian who was carrying her off his horse, turned the
+    animal's head round, and galloped back across the plain, hotly
+    pursued, until within a mile or two of the colony, by the rest
+    of the band. It was a plucky thing for a little bit of a woman
+    to attempt with a great powerful savage, and she is deservedly
+    looked upon in the village as quite a heroine.</p>
+
+    <p>The journey between Rosario and Cordova occupies twelve
+    hours by the ordinary train; and as Frayle Muerto is exactly
+    half-way between the two places, the trains going in either
+    direction commence their journey at the same hours (6 a.m. and
+    6 p.m.), by which means the passengers meet each other here in
+    time to breakfast and dine <span class="pagenum">Page
+    86<a name="Page_86"
+       id="Page_86"></a></span>together. There is a fine bridge
+       over the river near Frayle Muerto, but the place is
+       principally celebrated as having been the site of the
+       Henleyite colony, which caused disappointment to so many
+       young men of family, who were induced to come out here from
+       England and to go up country, with no other result than the
+       loss of all their money. The scheme was supposed to be
+       perfect in all its details, but proved upon a closer
+       acquaintance to be utterly worthless. The iron church at
+       Rosario is still standing, which the members of the
+       expedition took up there, and we have also met some of the
+       young men themselves at various times.</p>
+
+    <p>The train did not reach Cordova until 7.30 p.m., and it was
+    therefore too late for us to see much of the approach to the
+    city, but to-morrow we intend to do a good deal in that way. In
+    the middle of the night we were aroused by a violent
+    thunderstorm. The lightning was most vivid, and illuminated our
+    room with many colours. The rain fell heavily, flooding
+    everything, and making the streets look like rivers, and the
+    courtyard of the hotel like a lake. It is one of the oldest,
+    and, at the same time, one of the most unhealthy, of the cities
+    of South America, for it is built in the hollow of the
+    surrounding hills, where no refreshing breezes can
+    penetrate.</p>
+
+    <p>Travelling in Brazil is like passing through a vast
+    hothouse, filled with gorgeous tropical vegetation and forms of
+    insect life. In the neighbourhood of Monte Video you might
+    imagine yourself in a perpetual greenhouse. Here it is like
+    being in a vast garden, in which the greenest of turf, the
+    brightest of bedding-out plants, and the most fragrant
+    flowering shrubs abound. Each country, therefore, possesses its
+    own particular beauty, equally attractive in its way.</p>
+
+    <p>Shortly after leaving Cordova we passed through an Indian
+    village; but, except at this point, we did not meet many
+    natives during our ride. One poor woman, however,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 87<a name="Page_87"
+       id="Page_87"></a></span>whom we did unfortunately encounter,
+       had a fall from her horse, owing to the animal being
+       frightened at the umbrella I carried, yet my own horse had,
+       after a very brief objection, quietly submitted to the
+       introduction of this novelty into the equipment of his
+       rider.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_102"
+             id="Illus_102"></a> <img src="images/t_102.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="177"
+             alt="Illustration: La Calera"
+             title="Illustration: La Calera" /><br />
+        <b>La Calera</b><br />
+        <a href="images/102.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We found that the hotel on the Caldera for which we were
+    bound was shut up; but one of the party had the keys, and an
+    excellent lunch quickly made its appearance. The view from the
+    verandah, over the river, to the Sierras beyond, was very fine.
+    It had become quite hot by this time, and I was much interested
+    in seeing all our horses taken down to the water to bathe. They
+    appeared to be perfectly familiar with the process; and, the
+    river being shallow, they picked out all the nice holes between
+    the boulders, where they could lie down and be completely
+    covered by the water. Just as we were starting to return, black
+    clouds gathered from all around; the lightning flashed, the
+    thunder muttered, and big drops began to fall.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 88<a name="Page_88"
+       id="Page_88"></a></span>But the storm was not of long
+       duration, and we escaped the worst part of it, though we had
+       ample evidence of its severity during our homeward ride, in
+       the slippery ground, the washed-away paths, and the swollen
+       ditches. We stopped half-way to see the drowning out of some
+       poor little bizcachas from their holes. The water had been
+       turned into their dwellings by means of trenches, and as the
+       occupants endeavoured to make their escape at the other end
+       they were pounced upon by men and dogs; the prairie-owls
+       meanwhile hovering disconsolately overhead. Two of the
+       gentlemen of our party each managed to purchase a living
+       bizcacha, which was then wrapped up in a handkerchief and
+       conveyed home. When young they are pretty little creatures,
+       and are easily tamed.</p>
+
+    <p>It was late when we reached Cordova; but I was anxious to
+    visit the Observatory before our departure, as it is one of the
+    best, though not by any means the largest, in the world.
+    Professor Gould, the astronomer, is away just at present, but
+    we were kindly received by Mrs. Gould, who conducted us over
+    the building. They have a fine collection of various
+    instruments and some wonderful photographs of the principal
+    stars&mdash;Saturn, with his ring and eight moons, Jupiter,
+    with his four moons, Venus, Mercury, &amp;c. If we could have
+    stayed longer we might have seen much more; but it was now
+    quite dark, and we had only just time for a short visit to the
+    observing room itself. Our ride down to the city in the dark
+    would have been exceedingly risky if our horses had been less
+    sure-footed, for the roads had been washed away in many places,
+    but we reached the bottom of the Observatory hill in safety,
+    and shortly afterwards arrived at the hotel just in time for
+    dinner.</p>
+
+    <p>After dinner we drove to the station, where we found all our
+    own party assembled, and many more people, who had come to see
+    us off. I was given the Chilian bit used for the horse I rode
+    to-day, as a remembrance of my visit. It
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 89<a name="Page_89"
+       id="Page_89"></a></span>is a most formidable-looking
+       instrument of torture, and one which I am sure my dear
+       little steed did not in the least require; but I suppose the
+       fact of having once felt it, when being broken in, is
+       sufficient for a lifetime, for the horses here have
+       certainly the very lightest mouths I ever met with. A gift
+       of a young puma, or small lion, was also waiting for me. It
+       is about four months old, and very tame; but, considering
+       the children, I think it will be more prudent to pass it on
+       to the Zoo, in London.</p>
+
+    <p>The train started at 8.30 p.m. and took an hour to reach Rio
+    Segundo, where we found tea and coffee prepared. After that we
+    proceeded to make our arrangements for the night; some of the
+    gentlemen sleeping in the saloon-carriages, and some on beds
+    made up in the luggage-van. Tom and I turned into our two cozy
+    little berths, and knew nothing more until we were called at
+    4.30 a.m. at Ca&ntilde;ada de Gomez. The lamp had gone out, and
+    we found it rather difficult work dressing and packing in the
+    cold and dark; but it was soon done, and a cup of hot coffee in
+    the refreshment-room afterwards made us feel quite
+    comfortable.</p>
+
+    <p>Then we all separated: Captain Dunlop to join his ship; Tom
+    to complete his report on the colonies of the Central Argentine
+    Land Company, which he is preparing in compliance with the
+    request of the Directors in London; while the rest of the party
+    awaited the arrival of the waggonette which was to take us to
+    the estancia of Las Rosas.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, September 20th</i>.&mdash;At 6.30 a.m. the
+    waggonette arrived, a light but strong, unpainted vehicle,
+    drawn by a pair of active little well-bred horses, both of whom
+    had been raced in their day. There were but a few leagues of
+    cultivated ground to be passed before we reached the broad,
+    undulating, solitary Pampas, where for some time the only
+    visible signs of life were to be found in the Teru-tero birds
+    (a sort of plover), who shrieked <span class="pagenum">Page
+    90<a name="Page_90"
+       id="Page_90"></a></span>discordantly as we disturbed their
+       repose; the partridges, large and small, put up by the
+       retriever who accompanied us; some prairie fowls; a great
+       many hawks, of all sizes; and the pretty little wydah-birds,
+       with their two immense tail feathers, four times the length
+       of their bodies. The first glimpse of the far-spreading
+       prairie was most striking in all its variations of colour.
+       The true shade of the Pampas grass, when long, is a light
+       dusty green; when short it is a bright fresh green. But it
+       frequently happens that, owing to the numerous
+       prairie-fires, either accidental or intentional, nothing is
+       to be seen but a vast expanse of black charred ground, here
+       and there relieved by a few patches of vivid green, where
+       the grass is once more springing up under the influence of
+       the rain.</p>
+
+    <p>The road, or rather track, was in a bad condition, owing to
+    the recent wet weather, and on each side of the five
+    <i>ca&ntilde;adas</i>, or small rivers, which we had to ford,
+    there were deep morasses, through which we had to struggle as
+    best we could, with the mud up to our axletrees. Just before
+    arriving at the point where the stream had to be crossed, the
+    horses were well flogged and urged on at a gallop, which they
+    gallantly maintained until the other side was reached. Then we
+    stopped to breathe the horses and to repair damages, generally
+    finding that a trace had given way, or that some other part of
+    the harness had shown signs of weakness. On one occasion we
+    were delayed for a considerable time by the breaking of the
+    splinter-bar, to repair which was a troublesome matter; indeed,
+    I don't know how we should have managed it if we had not met a
+    native lad, who sold us his long lasso to bind the pieces
+    together again. It was a lucky <i>rencontre</i> for us, as he
+    was the only human being we saw during the whole of our drive
+    of thirty miles, except the peon who brought us a change of
+    horses, half-way.</p>
+
+    <p>In the course of the journey we passed a large estancia, the
+    road to which was marked by the dead bodies and
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 91<a name="Page_91"
+       id="Page_91"></a></span>skeletons of the poor beasts who had
+       perished in the late droughts. Hundreds of them were lying
+       about in every stage of decay, those more recently dead
+       being surrounded by vultures and other carrion-birds. The
+       next <i>ca&ntilde;ada</i> that we crossed was choked up with
+       the carcases of the unfortunate creatures who had struggled
+       thus far for a last drink, and had then not had sufficient
+       strength left to extricate themselves from the water. Herds
+       of miserable-looking, half-starved cattle were also to be
+       seen, the cows very little larger than their calves, and all
+       apparently covered with the same rough shaggy coats. The
+       pasture is not fine enough in this part of the country to
+       carry sheep, but deer are frequently met with.</p>
+
+    <p>A little later we again began to approach cultivated land,
+    and a mile or two further brought us to a broad road, with high
+    palings on either side, down which we drove, and through the
+    yard, to the door of the estancia. The house is a one-story
+    building, one room wide, with a verandah in front and at the
+    back, one side of which faces the yard, the other a well-kept
+    garden, full of violets and other spring flowers, and roses
+    just coming into bloom. There are several smaller detached
+    buildings, in which the sleeping apartments are situated, and
+    which are also provided with verandahs and barred windows.
+    Having visited the various rooms, in company with our hosts, we
+    sat down to a rough but substantial breakfast, to which full
+    justice was done. Travelling all night, and a ride of thirty
+    miles in the fresh morning air, have a tendency to produce a
+    keen appetite; and the present occasion proved no exception to
+    that rule.</p>
+
+    <p>After breakfast I rested and wrote some letters, while the
+    gentlemen inspected the farm and stud. The proprietor of this
+    estancia has the best horses in this part of the country, and
+    has taken great pains to improve their breed, as well as that
+    of the cattle and sheep, by importing thorough-breds from
+    England. Unlike the Arabs, neither <span class="pagenum">Page
+    92<a name="Page_92"
+       id="Page_92"></a></span>natives nor settlers here think of
+       riding mares, and it is considered quite a disgrace to do
+       so. They are therefore either allowed to run wild in troops,
+       or are used to trample out corn or to make mud for bricks.
+       They are also frequently killed and boiled down, for the
+       sake of their hides and tallow, the value of which does not
+       amount to more than about 10<i>s</i>. per head. Large herds
+       of them are met with at this time of the year on the Pampas,
+       attended by a few horses, and accompanied by their
+       foals.</p>
+
+    <p>The natives of these parts pass their lives in the saddle.
+    Horses are used for almost every conceivable employment, from
+    hunting and fishing to brick-making and butter-churning. Even
+    the very beggars ride about on horseback. I have seen a
+    photograph of one, with a police certificate of mendicancy
+    hanging round his neck, taken from life for Sir Woodbine
+    Parish. Every domestic servant has his or her own horse, as a
+    matter of course; and the maids are all provided with habits,
+    in which they ride about on Sundays, from one estancia to
+    another, to pay visits. In fishing, the horse is ridden into
+    the water as far as he can go, and the net or rod is then made
+    use of by his rider. At Buenos Ayres I have seen the poor
+    animals all but swimming to the shore, with heavy carts and
+    loads, from the ships anchored in the inner roads; for the
+    water is so shallow that only very small boats can go alongside
+    the vessels, and the cargo is therefore transferred directly to
+    the carts to save the trouble and expense of transshipment. In
+    out-of-the-way places, on the Pampas, where no churns exist,
+    butter is made by putting milk into a goat-skin bag, attached
+    by a long lasso to the saddle of a peon, who is then set to
+    gallop a certain number of miles, with the bag bumping and
+    jumping along the ground after him.</p>
+
+    <p>About four o'clock the horses&mdash;much larger and better
+    bred animals than those we have been riding lately&mdash;were
+    brought round from the corral. Mine was a beauty; easy,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 93<a name="Page_93"
+       id="Page_93"></a></span>gentle, and fast. We first took a
+       canter round the cultivated ground, about 300 acres in
+       extent, and in capital condition. Lucerne grows here
+       splendidly, and can be cut seven times a year. As we left
+       the yard, Mr. Nield's man asked if he would take the dogs.
+       He replied in the negative; but I suppose he must have
+       referred to the greyhounds only, for we were certainly
+       accompanied on the present occasion by <i>eleven</i> dogs of
+       various sorts and sizes, those left behind being shut up and
+       kept without food, in anticipation of the stag-hunt
+       to-morrow. We rode over the race-course, where the horses
+       are trained, and on to the partridge ground. The larger kind
+       of these birds are extremely stupid, and are easily ridden
+       down by a horseman, or caught in a noose. They rise three
+       times, and after the third flight they are so exhausted and
+       terrified that it is easy to dismount and catch them with
+       the hand, as they lie panting on the long grass.
+       Partridge-hunting is considered good sport. It is necessary
+       to keep your eye constantly fixed upon the bird, and to
+       watch where he settles, and then to gallop to the spot as
+       hard as possible, leaving your horse to look after himself
+       amid the long grass; and this manoeuvre has to be repeated
+       until at last the unfortunate bird is overtaken and
+       caught.</p>
+
+    <p>As we were riding along, the dogs found and killed a
+    bizcacha, in a bank. Just as Mr. Elliott had pulled it out, and
+    had laid it, dead, in the field, its little companion owl
+    arrived, and appeared to be in the most dreadful state of mind.
+    It shrieked and cried, as it hovered over us, and finally
+    selected a small white fox terrier, who, I think, really had
+    been principally concerned in the death, as the object of its
+    vengeance, pouncing down upon his head, and giving him two or
+    three good pecks, at the same time flapping its wings
+    violently. The other dogs drove it off; but more than half an
+    hour afterwards, while we were looking at some horses, nearly a
+    mile from the spot, the plucky little owl returned to the
+    charge, and again swooped down upon the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 94<a name="Page_94"
+       id="Page_94"></a></span>same dog, with a dismal cry, and
+       administered a vigorous peck to him. Altogether it was a
+       striking and interesting proof of the attachment existing
+       between these curious birds and beasts; the object of the
+       owl in the present instance clearly being to revenge if
+       possible the death of its friend.</p>
+
+    <p>On our return to the farm, we went all round the place, and
+    found that everything was being made secure for the night;
+    after which we watched all the servants come in one by one for
+    their daily ration of grog, and then retired to dress for
+    dinner, shortly after which, being thoroughly tired out, I
+    retired to my bed-room, attended by a very kind old Irishwoman,
+    who had been deputed to look after me. My mind was at first
+    somewhat disturbed by the discovery of one or two enormous
+    toads and long-armed spiders in my apartment; but they
+    fortunately did not interfere with my repose, for I slept like
+    a top. All the rooms being on the ground-floor, it is almost
+    impossible entirely to exclude intruders of this description. I
+    admired very much what I took to be two fine ponchos, of a
+    delicate fawn-colour, used as tablecloths, but upon a closer
+    examination I found that they were made of the finest silk, and
+    learned afterwards that they were imported from England. I
+    don't know why the same material should not be employed for a
+    similar purpose at home; but I believe that those manufactured
+    hitherto have been designed expressly for the South American
+    market, to which they are exported in considerable
+    quantities.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, September 21st</i>.&mdash;At five o'clock, when
+    I awoke, it was so misty that I could only see about half-way
+    across the yard. By six, the hour at which we were to have
+    started on our hunting expedition, matters had improved a
+    little; but it was still considered unsafe to venture out, for
+    fear of being lost on the vast plains which surrounded us. An
+    hour later, however, it was reported that the fog was clearing
+    off, and a little before eight o'clock
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 95<a name="Page_95"
+       id="Page_95"></a></span>we started. Horses, riders, and
+       dogs, all appeared to be in the highest spirits, the former
+       jumping and frisking about, hardly deigning to touch the
+       ground, the latter tearing after one another and barking at
+       every stray bird they met. The pack numbered seventeen, and
+       could hardly be called a level lot of hounds, comprising, as
+       it did, two deerhounds, five well-bred greyhounds, two
+       retrievers, one setter, one spaniel, one French poodle, two
+       fox terriers, one black and tan terrier, and two animals of
+       an utterly indescribable breed; but they all did their work
+       well, as the event proved. Even the shaggy fat old French
+       poodle arrived in each case before the deer was cut up.</p>
+
+    <p>Two deer were soon descried in the distance, and we cantered
+    steadily towards them at the rate of about ten miles an hour,
+    until the dogs winded and sighted them. Then, directly the
+    first short yelp was heard, every horse extended himself in an
+    instant, galloping away as hard as he could go, almost
+    literally <i>ventre &agrave; terre</i>. They were nearly all
+    thoroughbreds, and had been raced, so that the speed was
+    something delightful. But it only lasted ten minutes, at the
+    end of which time the dogs ran into one of the deer, and thus
+    put a temporary stop to our enjoyment. He proved to be a fine
+    buck, and was soon killed. His legs were cut off for trophies,
+    but, his horns being like velvet, the head was not worth
+    having. Some of the dogs pursued the doe, but failed to pull
+    her down, and returned half an hour later fatigued and
+    panting.</p>
+
+    <p>It had become hot by this time, so we rode to the nearest
+    water, to enable the animals to drink and bathe, and then
+    started afresh at a sharp canter. There were plenty of bizcacha
+    holes and boggy places to be avoided; but we allowed the horses
+    to take care of themselves and us in this respect, and occupied
+    ourselves almost exclusively in looking for fresh deer. For
+    some time we found nothing; then two sprang out of the long
+    grass close to the <i>ca&ntilde;ada</i>, which they crossed,
+    and, on reaching the other side, started
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 96<a name="Page_96"
+       id="Page_96"></a></span>off in different directions. The
+       pack pursued and divided, some going after each animal. I,
+       and two others of the party, followed the doe, and after
+       another short burst of ten minutes, at a tremendous pace, we
+       ran into and killed her. As soon as she had been despatched,
+       we wanted to follow the buck, in pursuit of which the rest
+       of the riders had gone, but there was now nothing to be seen
+       of him or them. Flat as the country looked, the slight
+       undulations of the ground quite hid them from our view.
+       After riding about for two hours in various directions,
+       looking and listening most patiently, we abandoned the
+       search in despair, and returned to the house, where we found
+       that our friends had already arrived. They had enjoyed the
+       best run they have had for many months&mdash;seven miles,
+       from point to point&mdash;but the dogs had lain down, dead
+       beat, at the end of the first six miles. The horsemen had
+       galloped on, their animals tailing off one by one, until
+       only two remained in it at all. Having mutually agreed to
+       let the stag live till another day to afford perhaps as good
+       a run and as much pleasure to some one else, they thereupon
+       also abandoned the chase, and turned their horses' heads
+       homewards.</p>
+
+    <p>After a change of dress, we proceeded to pack up,
+    preparatory to our departure, and then had breakfast, after
+    which we bade adieu to our kind hosts, and started in the
+    waggonette to retrace our steps to the station. It was very
+    bright and hot, and the sun and wind had already begun to have
+    a visible effect upon the vegetation of the Pampas. The streams
+    were much more passable, and we reached Ca&ntilde;ada de Gomez
+    at about half-past five, in a shorter time, than it had taken
+    us to perform the outward journey yesterday. On reaching
+    Rosario at about ten o'clock, we found several friends waiting
+    to receive us, with invitations to tea; but we felt too tired
+    in body and too disreputable in appearance to accept them, and
+    preferred going straight to our hotel and to bed.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 97<a name="Page_97"
+       id="Page_97"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_VII"
+       id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">MORE ABOUT THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>The twilight is sad and
+            cloudy</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>The wind blows wild
+            and free</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>And like the wings
+            of sea-birds</i><br /></span> <span><i>Flash the white
+            caps of the sea</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, September 22nd</i>.&mdash;Mr. Fisher called for
+    me at 8 a.m., to drive me in his little carriage to the railway
+    yard and workshops, and then to pay some farewell visits. We
+    also went to see the market, and to get some photographs of
+    Rosario; after which, breakfast, packing-up, and paying the
+    bill occupied our time until one o'clock, when we started for
+    the steamer, to return to Buenos Ayres. On our arrival
+    alongside the 'Proveedor,' I found that nearly all our Rosario
+    friends had come down to the landing-place to see us off, and
+    had brought all manner of remembrances for me and the children.
+    Flowers in profusion; a tame cardinal bird for Muriel; a pair
+    of dear little long-tailed green paroquets; the skin of a seal,
+    shot at the Alexandria colony; a beautiful poncho; an Argentine
+    bit, whip, and stirrups; a carpincha skin; two pretty little
+    muletas&mdash;a sort of armadillo, very tame, and often kept in
+    the houses here as a pet; and several other presents, all of
+    which, when I look at them at home, will serve to remind me of
+    the kind donors, and of the happy days spent in the Argentine
+    Republic.</p>
+
+    <p>It was not long before we were off, and steaming slowly
+    astern of the 'Uruguay.' This boat is not so large nor so fast
+    as the 'Uruguay,' though the difference in speed does not
+    probably amount to more than fifteen minutes in the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 98<a name="Page_98"
+       id="Page_98"></a></span>twenty-four hours. Her saloon and
+       deck are not so good, but her sleeping-cabins are much
+       larger and more comfortable. The Italian captains are
+       equally agreeable on both steamers, the civility is the
+       same, and the fares and food are precisely similar, so that
+       there is not much left to influence one in the choice of
+       vessels. We had a pleasant party at an excellent dinner in
+       the evening, the captain only regretting that we had not
+       been on board two days ago, when Mlle. P. and the opera
+       company went down from Rosario to Buenos Ayres. They had a
+       very cheery evening, and some good music, which Tom told us
+       afterwards he thoroughly enjoyed. There were no musicians on
+       board to-night, and not any temptation to sit up late, which
+       was perhaps as well; one of the reasons for our going back
+       this way being that we wished to have an opportunity of
+       seeing the River Tigr&eacute;, which we should reach in the
+       early morning. On the upward journey we had, to save time,
+       embarked at Campa&ntilde;a, which is situated above that
+       river.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, September 23rd</i>.&mdash;At 4.30 a.m. the
+    captain called me, being anxious that I should not miss any of
+    the beauties of the Tigr&eacute;. On my arrival on deck he
+    kindly had a chair placed for me right in the bows, provided me
+    with rugs and wraps, and sent for some hot coffee, which was
+    particularly acceptable, as the morning air was fresh and
+    chilly. The sky was flushed with rosy clouds, the forerunners
+    of one of the most beautiful sunrises imaginable. The river
+    itself is narrow and monotonous, the branches of the
+    willow-tree on either bank almost sweeping the sides of the
+    steamer. The centre channel is fairly deep; but we managed to
+    run aground once, though we only drew nine feet, and in turning
+    a sharp corner it was necessary to send a boat ashore with a
+    rope, to pull the vessel's head round.</p>
+
+    <p>At half-past six we reached the port of Tigr&eacute;, where
+    we found many fine ships waiting for the tide, to go up the
+    river. Some delay occurred while the passengers' luggage
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 99<a name="Page_99"
+       id="Page_99"></a></span>was being examined; but in about
+       half an hour we were able to land and walk to the
+       railway-station, through an avenue of shady trees, round the
+       trunks of which the wistaria, now in full bloom, was
+       climbing, and past several houses, whose pretty gardens were
+       ablaze with all sorts of flowers. At the station I found a
+       letter from Tom, telling me we were expected to breakfast at
+       a quinta, not far from Buenos Ayres.</p>
+
+    <p>For about an hour and a half the line ran through a rich and
+    fertile country, quite the garden of Buenos Ayres, until we
+    arrived at the station where we were to alight. Here Mr.
+    Coghlan met us and drove us to his house, which is charmingly
+    situated in the midst of a grove of olive-trees, formerly
+    surrounding the palace of the viceroys. After breakfast the
+    gardener cut us a fine bouquet of roses and violets, and we
+    walked to the tramway, and were conveyed by one of the cars,
+    smoothly and quickly, to the city. The contrast between this
+    mode of travelling and riding in an ordinary carriage through
+    the ill-paved streets is very striking. It is really less
+    fatiguing to walk than to adopt the latter mode of conveyance,
+    and I believe that, but for the look of the thing, most people
+    would prefer to do so. How the vehicles themselves stand the
+    jolting I cannot imagine, for they are all large and handsome,
+    and must suffer tremendous strains.</p>
+
+    <p>At noon we went with Mr. Coghlan to see the market and the
+    museum, and to do some shopping. The market is a large open
+    building, well supplied with everything at moderate prices;
+    meat, game, fruit, vegetables, and flowers being especially
+    cheap and good. House-rent and fine clothes&mdash;what Muriel
+    would call 'dandy things'&mdash;are very dear in Buenos Ayres,
+    but all the necessaries of life are certainly cheap. People of
+    the middle and lower classes live much better here than they do
+    at home, and the development of bone and muscle in large
+    families of small children, owing to the constant use of so
+    much meat and <span class="pagenum">Page 100<a name="Page_100"
+       id="Page_100"></a></span> strong soup, is very remarkable.
+       When once they have attained the age at which they can run
+       about, children get on very well; but the climate, and the
+       difficulty of obtaining a proper supply of milk in hot
+       weather, often prove fatal to infants. It is very difficult
+       to get good servants here, as they can easily obtain much
+       higher pay in other capacities, and are very soon enabled to
+       set up in business for themselves. Returning to the hotel,
+       we collected our parcels and had some luncheon, and then
+       proceeded to the pier, where we found the children waiting
+       for us to embark in the gig, and we soon arrived safely on
+       board the 'Sunbeam.'</p>
+
+    <p>At about half-past six, Tom and Mabelle returned from their
+    expedition to the largest and most comfortable estancia in the
+    country, where they were received most hospitably, and enjoyed
+    themselves very much.</p>
+
+    <p>After dinner, some of our party left in the whale-boat,
+    being anxious to be present at Madame Almazilia's benefit
+    performance at the opera, for which I fear they arrived too
+    late after all. Whilst we were waiting at the railway-station
+    to-day, some of the bouquets, which were to be presented at the
+    theatre to-night, arrived by train. The flowers were arranged
+    in all manner of strange shapes and devices&mdash;full-sized
+    tables and chairs, music-stands, and musical instruments, and
+    many other quaint conceits, composed entirely of grey
+    Neapolitan violets, marked out with camellias and other
+    coloured flowers.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, September 24th</i>.&mdash;Most of us went ashore
+    in the whale-boat at ten o'clock, to attend the English church,
+    reopened to-day for the first time for some months. After our
+    own service we met many friends, and walked to the Roman
+    Catholic cathedral. The streets were full of well-appointed
+    carriages, and in the interior of the building we found a great
+    many well-dressed ladies, and a few men. Mass had not
+    commenced, and a constant stream of worshippers was still
+    entering; but we remained only for a short time, and then
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 101<a name="Page_101"
+       id="Page_101"></a></span>returned to the Mole. By this time
+       the wind had freshened considerably, and several of our
+       friends tried to persuade us to remain on shore; but as we
+       knew Tom was expecting us, and we wanted to get the things
+       we required for our next journey, we thought it better to go
+       off.</p>
+
+    <p>It took us two hours and a half, beating against the wind,
+    to reach the yacht, sea-sick, and drenched to the skin.
+    Directly we got outside the bar the sea was very bad, and each
+    wave broke more or less over the little half-deck, under which
+    the children had been packed away for shelter. Seeing how rough
+    it was out at the anchorage&mdash;far worse than near the
+    shore&mdash;Tom had quite given us up, for it was now half-past
+    three, and was preparing to come ashore, bringing our things
+    with him. On board the yacht we found an unfortunate French
+    maid, and another servant, who had come off early in the
+    morning to spend the day and have dinner with our people, but
+    who were now lying prostrate and ill in the cabin.</p>
+
+    <p>Champagne and luncheon revived us a little, and Tom hurried
+    us off to get ashore again by daylight, before the weather
+    became worse. It was a very pleasant twenty minutes' sail to
+    the shore, racing along before the wind, with two reefs in the
+    mainsail&mdash;quite a different thing from beating out. The
+    tide was high, and the captain therefore steered for the pier,
+    where he hoped to land us. Unfortunately, however, he missed
+    it; and as it was impossible to make another tack out, all that
+    could be done was to let go the anchor to save running ashore,
+    and wait until they sent out a small boat to fetch us. This
+    took some little time during which we pitched and tossed about
+    in a very disagreeable fashion. When the boat did at last
+    arrive she turned out to be a wretched little skiff, rowed by
+    two men, with very indifferent oars, and only capable of taking
+    three passengers at a time. Tom went first, taking with him the
+    two children, and the two poor sea-sick maids, and the boat at
+    once put off for the land, Tom steering.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 102<a name="Page_102"
+       id="Page_102"></a></span>It was terrible to watch them from
+       the whale-boat, and when one tremendous sea came, and the
+       skiff broached to, I thought for a moment that all was over,
+       as did every one who was watching our proceedings from the
+       pier. I could not look any more, till I heard shouts that
+       they were safe ashore. Then came our turn. The boat returned
+       for us, this time provided with better oars, and we were
+       soon landed in safety, if not in comfort; and a third and
+       last trip brought ashore the rest of the party and the
+       luggage, Tom remaining at the tiller.</p>
+
+    <p>Mr. Coghlan had come down to meet us, but, seeing the peril
+    of the first boat, had gone away until he heard we were all
+    landed, and now returned to congratulate us on our narrow
+    escape and present safety. After we had rested for a short time
+    in the waiting-room, to recover from our fright and shake our
+    dripping garments, we went to the H&ocirc;tel de la Paix, where
+    we dined, and at ten o'clock we walked down to the
+    railway-station, where a large number of people had already
+    assembled, some of whom were to accompany us to Azul, while
+    others had only come to see us off.</p>
+
+    <p>Everything had been most comfortably arranged for us in the
+    special train. The interior fittings of two second-class
+    American carriages had been completely taken out, and a canvas
+    lining, divided into compartments, each containing a cozy
+    little bed, had been substituted. Wash-stands, looking-glasses,
+    &amp;c., had been provided, and a profusion of beautiful
+    flowers filled in every available spot. In a third car two
+    tables, occupying its entire length, with seats on one side of
+    each table, had been placed; and here it was intended that we
+    should breakfast, lunch, and dine.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, September 25th</i>.&mdash;We slept
+    soundly&mdash;speaking for the children and myself&mdash;until
+    we were aroused at six o'clock this morning by the agreeable
+    intelligence that we had reached our destination. Azul is about
+    300 miles south of Buenos Ayres, on the Southern Railway. It is
+    a <span class="pagenum">Page 103<a name="Page_103"
+       id="Page_103"></a></span>small and primitive place in
+       itself, but is situated in the midst of splendid pastures,
+       both for rearing sheep and cattle, of which there are large
+       flocks and herds.</p>
+
+    <p>Whilst we were waiting for breakfast, we walked a little
+    distance to see a troop of mares treading mud for bricks. It
+    was a curious, but rather sad sight. Inside a circular
+    enclosure, some fifty yards in diameter, about fifty
+    half-starved animals, up to their houghs in very sloppy mud,
+    were being driven round about, and up and down, as fast as they
+    could go, by a mounted peon, assisted by five or six men on
+    foot, outside the enclosure, armed with long heavy whips, which
+    they used constantly. Some of the poor creatures had foals,
+    which were tied up a little distance off, and which kept up a
+    piteous whinnying, as an accompaniment to the lashings and
+    crackings of the whips. On our way back to the station we saw a
+    horse, attached to a light gig, bolt across the Pampas at full
+    gallop, vainly pursued by a man on horseback. First one wheel
+    came off and then the other; then the body of the gig was left
+    behind, and then the shafts and most of the harness followed
+    suit; until at last&mdash;as we afterwards heard&mdash;the
+    runaway reached his home, about five miles off, with only his
+    bridle remaining.</p>
+
+    <p>At nine o'clock the breakfast-bell rang, and we found an
+    excellent repast spread out for us on two long tables. An hour
+    later we started in seven large carriages, and proceeded first
+    to make the tour of the town, afterwards visiting the bank, and
+    a fine new house in the course of construction by a native,
+    built entirely of white marble from Italy. Then we paid a visit
+    to some Indians&mdash;an old chief and his four wives, who have
+    settled quietly down in a toldo near the town. They were not
+    bad-looking, and appeared fairly comfortable, as they squatted
+    in the open air round the fire, above which was suspended a
+    large iron pot, containing, to judge by the look and smell, a
+    most savoury preparation. We next went to a store, where we
+    picked up a few curiosities, and then drove to the mill of
+    Azul, a new <span class="pagenum">Page 104<a name="Page_104"
+       id="Page_104"></a></span>establishment, of which the
+       inhabitants of the town are evidently very proud. There is a
+       pretty walk by the mill-stream, overhung with willows, and
+       close by is another toldo, inhabited by more Indians.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_119"
+             id="Illus_119"></a> <img src="images/t_119.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="181"
+             alt="Illustration: Indians at Azul"
+             title="Illustration: Indians at Azul" /><br />
+        <b>Indians at Azul</b><br />
+        <a href="images/119.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Leaving the town, we now proceeded about two leagues across
+    the Pampas to Mr. Frer's estancia. He is a farmer, on a very
+    extensive scale, and possesses about 24,000 sheep and 500
+    horses, besides goodly herds of cattle. The locusts have not
+    visited this part of the country, and the pastures are
+    consequently in fine condition after the late rains, while the
+    sheep look proportionately well. We passed a large
+    <i>grasseria</i>, or place where sheep are killed at the rate
+    of seven in a minute, and are skinned, cut up, and boiled down
+    for tallow in an incredibly short space of time, the residue of
+    the meat being used in the furnace as fuel. Running about
+    loose, outside, were four or five curly-horned rams, between
+    two of which a grand combat took place, apparently conducted in
+    strict accordance with the rules of fighting etiquette. The two
+    animals began by walking round and round, eyeing each other
+    carefully, and <span class="pagenum">Page 105<a name="Page_105"
+       id="Page_105"></a></span>then retiring backwards a certain
+       distance, which might have been measured out for them, they
+       stopped so exactly simultaneously. Then, gazing steadfastly
+       at one another for a few moments, as if to take aim, they
+       rushed forward with tremendous force, dashing their
+       foreheads together with a crash that might have been heard a
+       mile away. It seemed marvellous that they did not fracture
+       their skulls, for they repeated the operation three or four
+       times before Mr. Frer could get a man to help to stop the
+       fight, when the two combatants were led off, in a very sulky
+       state, to be locked up apart.</p>
+
+    <p>Arrangements had been made for us to see as much of
+    station-life as possible during our short visit. The peons'
+    dinner had been put back, in order that we might witness their
+    peculiar method of roasting, or rather baking, their food, and
+    eating it; but we were rather later than was expected, and the
+    men were so hungry that we were only able to see the end of the
+    performance. Mr. Frer had also sent a long way across the
+    Pampas for some wild horses, belonging to him, in order that we
+    might see them lassoed; and Colonel Donovan had brought with
+    him one of his best domidors, or horse-breakers, that we might
+    have an opportunity of seeing an unbroken colt caught and
+    backed for the first time.</p>
+
+    <p>About a hundred horses were driven into a large corral, and
+    several gauchos and peons, some on horseback and some on foot,
+    exhibited their skill with the lasso, by catching certain of
+    the animals, either by the fore leg, the hind leg, or the neck,
+    as they galloped round and round at full speed. The captured
+    animal got a tremendous fall in each case, and if the mounted
+    horse was not very clever and active, he and his rider were
+    very likely to be thrown down also. There was the risk too of
+    the man receiving an injury from the lasso itself, if it should
+    happen to get round his body, in which case he would probably
+    be almost cut in half by the sudden jerk.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_121"
+             id="Illus_121"></a> <img src="images/t_121.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="146"
+             alt="Illustration: Lassoing Horses"
+             title="Illustration: Lassoing Horses" /><br />
+        <b>Lassoing Horses</b><br />
+        <a href="images/121.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 106<a name="Page_106"
+       id="Page_106"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>The next proceeding was to cast a lasso at a <i>potro</i>,
+    or unbroken colt, who was galloping about in the very centre of
+    the troop, at full speed. His fore legs were caught dexterously
+    in the noose, which brought him up, or rather down, instantly,
+    head over heels. Another lasso was then thrown over his head,
+    and drawn quite tight round his neck, and a bridle, composed of
+    two or three thongs of raw hide, was forced into his mouth by
+    means of a slip-knot rein. A sheepskin saddle was placed on his
+    back, the man who was to ride him standing over him, with one
+    foot already in the stirrup. All this time the poor horse was
+    lying on the ground, with his legs tied close together,
+    frightened almost out of his life, trembling in every limb, and
+    perspiring from every pore. When the man was ready, the horse's
+    legs were loosened sufficiently to allow him to rise, and he
+    was then led outside the corral. The lassoes were suddenly
+    withdrawn, and he dashed forwards, springing and plunging
+    upwards, sideways, downwards, in every direction, in the vain
+    effort to rid himself of his unaccustomed load. The man
+    remained planted, like a rock, in the saddle,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 107<a name="Page_107"
+       id="Page_107"></a></span>pulling hard at the bridle, while a
+       second domidor, mounted on a tame horse, pursued the
+       terrified animal, striking him with a cruel whip to make him
+       go in the required direction. After about ten minutes of
+       this severe exercise, the captive returned to the corral,
+       exhausted, and perfectly cowed, and showing no desire to
+       rejoin his late companions. In order to complete the process
+       of breaking him in, we were told that it would be necessary
+       to keep him tied up for two or three days, rather short of
+       food, and to repeat daily the operation of saddling,
+       bridling, and mounting, the difficulty being less on each
+       occasion, until at last he would become as quiet as a
+       lamb.</p>
+
+    <p>We now saw our train approaching, orders having been given
+    for it to come as far as it could from the station to meet us.
+    We wished good-bye to Mr. Frer and his party, and, with many
+    thanks to all, got into our carriages and drove across the
+    plains to the railway. On our way we passed some large lagunes,
+    full of wild fowl, and surrounded by scarlet flamingoes and
+    pelicans. The ground we had to traverse was very boggy; so much
+    so, that two of the carriages got stuck, and their occupants
+    had to turn out and walk. At last we reached the train, and
+    climbed into the cars, where we found an excellent luncheon
+    prepared, which we ate whilst the train dashed along at the
+    rate of forty miles an hour. About seven o'clock we stopped for
+    tea and coffee, and the children were put to bed. By nine we
+    had reached the junction for Buenos Ayres, where an engine met
+    us, and took most of our party into the city, in one of the
+    cars, while we went on to Punta Lara, the station for
+    Ensenada.</p>
+
+    <p>On arriving we were met by several of our men, who had been
+    allowed to go ashore at Buenos Ayres on Sunday morning, and had
+    not been able to rejoin the yacht since. On Sunday night, when
+    they were to have returned, it was impossible for them to get
+    off. Even the whale-boat was nearly dashed to pieces, at
+    anchor, near the pier. They <span class="pagenum">Page
+    108<a name="Page_108"
+       id="Page_108"></a></span>spent the early part of Monday
+       morning in hunting everywhere with the pilot for the lost
+       steward, and at last left the shore just in time to see the
+       yacht steaming down the river, with only half her crew on
+       board, and without a pilot. It seems they had been waited
+       for from eight o'clock until eleven; it then became
+       necessary to get under way, for fear of losing the tide. As
+       it was, the yacht had not been able to get near the pier at
+       Ensenada, and was now lying in the river, two miles out. The
+       station-master, having been informed of the state of
+       affairs, very kindly had steam got up in the railway tug to
+       take us off. The children, with their nurses, remained in
+       bed in the car, which was shunted into a siding until the
+       morning, the doctor staying on shore in charge. The rest of
+       us then set out for the yacht, which we reached at 1 a.m.,
+       only to be greeted with the pleasing intelligence that no
+       fresh provisions had arrived on board for the party of
+       friends we were expecting. The captain of the tug was good
+       enough to promise to do what he could for us on shore; but
+       everything is brought here from Buenos Ayres, and it is too
+       late to telegraph for a supply. We cannot help fearing that
+       something must have happened to our steward, for he has
+       always been most steady and respectable hitherto, and I
+       fancy Buenos Ayres is rather a wild place. Every inquiry is
+       to be made, and I can only trust the morning may bring us
+       some news.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, September 26th</i>.&mdash;The morning was fine,
+    with a nice breeze, but the tide was so low that we should have
+    been unable to get alongside the pier until ten o'clock, when
+    Tom thought we should just miss our guests. It was therefore
+    decided that it would be better to send the steam-tug to meet
+    the special train, especially as, if we took the yacht in, it
+    would be impossible to get out again in the middle of the
+    night, when we had arranged to sail.</p>
+
+    <p>The steam-tug came off early, bringing two sheep, half a
+    bullock, and some wild ducks, much to the relief of the cook's
+    mind; but there were no vegetables to be had on
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 109<a name="Page_109"
+       id="Page_109"></a></span>shore, and of course it was too
+       late to send to Buenos Ayres for any. We had to do the best
+       we could without them, therefore, and I really do not think
+       any one knew of the dilemma we had been in, until they were
+       told, at the end of the day. The servants all turned to and
+       worked with a will; but it was rather a different matter
+       from having a large luncheon party on board in the Thames,
+       with our London servants and supplies to fall back upon.</p>
+
+    <p>For our own part, I think we all felt that the comparative
+    scarcity of meat this morning was an agreeable change, after
+    our recent experiences. Animal food is so cheap and so good in
+    this country that at every meal four or five dishes of beef or
+    mutton, dressed in various ways, are provided. In the
+    camp&mdash;as all the country round Buenos Ayres is
+    called&mdash;people eat nothing but meat, either fresh or
+    dried, and hardly any flour with it. Especially in the more
+    distant estancias, beef and mutton, poultry and eggs, form the
+    staple food of the inhabitants. Very little bread is eaten, and
+    no vegetables, and an attempt is rarely made to cultivate a
+    garden of any sort. This year, too, the ravages of the locusts
+    have made vegetable food scarcer than ever, and it must now be
+    looked upon quite as a luxury by very many people; for there
+    can be little doubt that to live entirely on meat, even of the
+    best quality, though probably strengthening, must be
+    exceedingly monotonous.</p>
+
+    <p>About one o'clock we saw the tug coming off again, this time
+    with her decks crowded. We found she had brought us fifteen
+    ladies and thirty gentlemen&mdash;more than we had expected, on
+    account of the shortness of the notice we had been able to
+    give. The luncheon was managed by dividing our guests into
+    three parties, the coffee and dessert being served on deck; but
+    I am afraid the last division got very hungry before their time
+    arrived. It could not, however, be helped, and it is to be
+    hoped that the examination of the various parts of the yacht
+    and her contents <span class="pagenum">Page
+    110<a name="Page_110"
+       id="Page_110"></a></span>served to while away the time.
+       Every one seemed to be pleased with the appearance of the
+       vessel, never having seen one like her before. Indeed, the
+       only yacht that has ever been here previously is the
+       'Eothen,' which formerly belonged to us.</p>
+
+    <p>Mr. St. John's servant brought me a most magnificent
+    bouquet, composed entirely of violets, arranged in the shape of
+    a basket, three feet in width, full of camellias, and marked
+    with my initials in alyssum. Altogether it was quite a work of
+    art, but almost overpoweringly sweet.</p>
+
+    <p>It was late before our friends began the task of saying
+    good-bye&mdash;no light matter where, as in the present case,
+    it is doubtful whether, or at any rate when, we shall meet
+    again. At last they left us, steaming round the yacht in the
+    tug, and giving us some hearty cheers as they passed. The
+    Minister's flag was run up, salutes were exchanged, and the
+    little steamer rapidly started off in the direction of the
+    shore, followed by a dense cloud of her own smoke. Through a
+    telescope we watched our friends disembark at the pier, and saw
+    the train steam away; and then we turned our thoughts to the
+    arrangements for our own departure.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, September 27th</i>.&mdash;A fine breeze was
+    blowing this morning, in a favourable direction for our start,
+    but as ten and eleven o'clock arrived, and there were still no
+    signs of the expected stores, Tom was in despair, and wanted to
+    sail without them. I therefore volunteered to go ashore in the
+    gig and see what had happened to them, and telegraph, if
+    necessary, to Mr. Crabtree. Fortunately, we met the tug on our
+    way, and returned in tow of her to the yacht. Then, after
+    settling a few bills, and obtaining our bill of health, we got
+    the anchor up, and proceeded down the river under sail. Between
+    one and two o'clock we commenced steaming, and in the course of
+    the evening were clear of the River Plate and fairly on our way
+    to the Straits of Magellan.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 111<a name="Page_111"
+       id="Page_111"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_VIII"
+       id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">RIVER PLATE TO SANDY POINT, STRAITS OF
+    MAGELLAN.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>I have seen tempests, when the scolding
+            winds</i><br /></span> <span><i>Have riv'd the knotty
+            oaks; and I have seen</i><br /></span> <span><i>The
+            ambitious ocean swell and rage and
+            foam</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>To be exalted with the
+            threat'ning clouds</i>:<br /></span> <span><i>But never
+            till to-night, never till now</i><br /></span>
+            <span><i>Did I go through a tempest dropping
+            fire</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, September 28th</i>,&mdash;A fine bright
+    morning, with a strong, fair wind. The order to stop firing was
+    given at noon, and we ceased steaming shortly after. There had
+    evidently been a gale from the southward during the last few
+    days, for the swell was tremendous, and not only made us all
+    feel very uncomfortable after our long stay in harbour, but
+    considerably diminished our speed. Still, we managed to go
+    twenty-seven knots in two hours and a half.</p>
+
+    <p>I was lying down, below, after breakfast, feeling very
+    stupid, when Mabelle rushed into the cabin, saying, 'Papa says
+    you are to come up on deck at once, to see the ship on fire.' I
+    rushed up quickly, hardly knowing whether she referred to our
+    own or some other vessel, and on reaching the deck I found
+    everybody looking at a large barque, under full sail, flying
+    the red union-jack upside down, and with signals in her
+    rigging, which our signal-man read as 'Ship on fire.' These
+    were lowered shortly afterwards, and the signals, 'Come on
+    board at once,' hoisted in their place. Still we could see no
+    appearance of smoke or flames, but we nevertheless hauled to
+    the wind, tacked, hove to, and sent off a boat's crew, well
+    armed, thinking it not impossible that a mutiny had taken place
+    on board and that the <span class="pagenum">Page
+    112<a name="Page_112"
+       id="Page_112"></a></span>captain or officers, mistaking the
+       yacht for a gunboat, had appealed to us for assistance. We
+       were now near enough to the barque to make out her name
+       through a glass&mdash;the 'Monkshaven,' of Whitby&mdash;and
+       we observed a puff of smoke issue from her deck
+       simultaneously with the arrival of our boat alongside. In
+       the course of a few minutes, the boat returned, bringing the
+       mate of the 'Monkshaven,' a fine-looking Norwegian, who
+       spoke English perfectly, and who reported his ship to be
+       sixty-eight days out from Swansea, bound for Valparaiso,
+       with a cargo of smelting coal. The fire had first been
+       discovered on the previous Sunday, and by 6 a.m. on Monday
+       the crew had got up their clothes and provisions on deck,
+       thrown overboard all articles of a combustible character,
+       such as tar, oil, paint, spare spars and sails, planks, and
+       rope, and battened down the hatches. Ever since then they
+       had all been living on deck, with no protection from the
+       wind and sea but a canvas screen. Tom and Captain Brown
+       proceeded on board at once. They found the deck more than a
+       foot deep in water, and all a-wash; when the hatches were
+       opened for a moment dense <span class="pagenum">Page
+       113<a name="Page_113"
+       id="Page_113"></a></span>clouds of hot suffocating yellow
+       smoke immediately poured forth, driving back all who stood
+       near. From the captain's cabin came volumes of poisonous
+       gas, which had found its way in through the crevices, and
+       one man, who tried to enter, was rendered insensible.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_127"
+             id="Illus_127"></a> <img src="images/t_127.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="172"
+             alt="Illustration: Monkshaven on Fire"
+             title="Illustration: Monkshaven on Fire" /><br />
+        <b>Monkshaven on Fire</b><br />
+        <a href="images/127.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>It was perfectly evident that it would be impossible to save
+    the ship, and the captain therefore determined, after
+    consultation with Tom and Captain Brown, to abandon her. Some
+    of the crew were accordingly at once brought on board the
+    'Sunbeam,' in our boat, which was then sent back to assist in
+    removing the remainder, a portion of whom came in their own
+    boat. The poor fellows were almost wild with joy at getting
+    alongside another ship, after all the hardships they had gone
+    through, and in their excitement they threw overboard many
+    things which they might as well have kept, as they had taken
+    the trouble to bring them. Our boat made three trips
+    altogether, and by half-past six we had them all safe on board,
+    with most of their effects, and the ship's chronometers,
+    charts, and papers.</p>
+
+    <p>The poor little dingy, belonging to the 'Monkshaven,' had
+    been cast away as soon as the men had disembarked from her, and
+    there was something melancholy in seeing her slowly drift away
+    to leeward, followed by her oars and various small articles, as
+    if to rejoin the noble ship she had so lately quitted. The
+    latter was now hove-to, under full sail, an occasional puff of
+    smoke alone betraying the presence of the demon of destruction
+    within. The sky was dark and lowering, the sunset red and lurid
+    in its grandeur, the clouds numerous and threatening, the sea
+    high and dark, with occasional streaks of white foam. Not a
+    breath of wind was stirring. Everything portended a gale. As we
+    lay slowly rolling from side to side, both ship and boat were
+    sometimes plainly visible, and then again both would disappear,
+    for what seemed an age, in the deep trough of the South
+    Atlantic rollers.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 114<a name="Page_114"
+       id="Page_114"></a></span>For two hours we could see the
+       smoke pouring from various portions of the ill-fated barque.
+       Our men, who had brought off the last of her crew, reported
+       that, as they left her, flames were just beginning to burst
+       from the fore-hatchway; and it was therefore certain that
+       the rescue had not taken place an hour too soon. Whilst we
+       were at dinner, Powell called us up on deck to look at her
+       again, when we found that she was blazing like a tar-barrel.
+       The captain was anxious to stay by and see the last of her,
+       but Tom was unwilling to incur the delay which this would
+       have involved. We accordingly got up steam, and at nine p.m.
+       steamed round the 'Monkshaven,' as close as it was deemed
+       prudent to go. No flames were visible then; only dense
+       volumes of smoke and sparks, issuing from the hatches. The
+       heat, however, was intense, and could be plainly felt, even
+       in the cold night air, as we passed some distance to
+       leeward. All hands were clustered in our rigging, on the
+       deck-house or on the bridge, to see the last of the poor
+       'Monkshaven,' as she was slowly being burnt down to the
+       water's edge.</p>
+
+    <p>She was a large and nearly new (three years old) composite
+    ship, built and found by her owners, Messrs. Smales, of Whitby,
+    of 657 tons burden, and classed A 1 for ten years at Lloyd's.
+    Her cargo, which consisted of coal for smelting purposes, was a
+    very dangerous one; so much so that Messrs. Nicholas, of
+    Sunderland, from whose mines the coal is procured, have great
+    difficulty in chartering vessels to carry it, and are therefore
+    in the habit of building and using their own ships for the
+    purpose. At Buenos Ayres we were told that, of every three
+    ships carrying this cargo round to Valparaiso or Callao, one
+    catches fire, though the danger is frequently discovered in
+    time to prevent much damage to the vessel or loss of life.</p>
+
+    <p>The crew of the 'Monkshaven'&mdash;Danes, Norwegians,
+    Swedes, Scotch, and Welsh&mdash;appear to be quiet, respectable
+    men. This is fortunate, as an incursion of fifteen rough
+    lawless spirits on board our little vessel would have
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 115<a name="Page_115"
+       id="Page_115"></a></span>been rather a serious matter. In
+       their hurry and fright, however, they left all their
+       provisions behind them, and it is no joke to have to provide
+       food for fifteen extra hungry mouths for a week or ten days,
+       with no shops at hand from which to replenish our stores.
+       The sufficiency of the water supply, too, is a matter for
+       serious consideration. We have all been put on
+       half-allowance, and sea-water only is to be used for washing
+       purposes.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_130"
+             id="Illus_130"></a> <img src="images/t_130.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="217"
+             alt="Illustration: Shipwrecked Crew coming on Board"
+             title="Illustration: Shipwrecked Crew coming on Board" /><br />
+
+        <b>Shipwrecked Crew coming on Board</b><br />
+        <a href="images/130.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Some account of the disaster, as gathered from the lips of
+    various members of the crew at different times, may perhaps be
+    interesting. It seems that, early on Monday morning, the day
+    following that on which the fire was discovered, another
+    barque, the 'Robert Hinds,' of Liverpool, was spoken. The
+    captain of that vessel offered to stand by them or do anything
+    in his power to help them; but at that time they had a fair
+    wind for Monte Video, only 120 miles distant, and they
+    therefore determined to run for that port,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 116<a name="Page_116"
+       id="Page_116"></a></span>and do their best to save the ship,
+       and possibly some of the cargo. In the course of the night,
+       however, a terrible gale sprang up, the same, no doubt, as
+       the one of which we had felt the effects on first leaving
+       the River Plate. They were driven hither and thither, the
+       sea constantly breaking over them and sweeping the decks,
+       though fortunately without washing any of them overboard.
+       After forty-eight hours of this rough usage the men were all
+       exhausted, while the fire was gradually increasing in
+       strength beneath their feet, and they knew not at what
+       moment it might burst through the decks and envelope the
+       whole ship in flames. They were beginning to abandon all
+       hope of a rescue, when a sail was suddenly discovered; and
+       as soon as the necessary flags could be found, the same
+       signal which attracted us was displayed. The vessel, now
+       quite close to them, proved to be a large American steamer,
+       but she merely hoisted her own ensign and code-pennant, and
+       then coolly steamed away to the southward. 'I think that
+       captain deserved tarring and feathering, anyway,' one of the
+       men said to me. Another observed, 'I wonder what will become
+       of that man; for we had put all our lives in his hand by
+       signalling as we did; and every seaman knows that right
+       well.' Another said, 'When we saw that ship go away, we all
+       gave in and lay down in despair to die. But our captain, who
+       is very good to his crew, and a religious man too, said,
+       "There is One above who looks after us all." That was true
+       enough, for, about ten minutes afterwards, as I was talking
+       to the cook, and telling him it was all over with us, I saw
+       a sail to leeward, and informed the captain. We bore down a
+       little, but did not like to go out of our course too much,
+       fearing you might be a "Portuguese," and play us the same
+       trick as the American.' (They could not understand our white
+       ensign; for, our funnel being stowed, we looked like a
+       sailing vessel, while all gunboats of our size are
+       steamers.) 'When we saw it was an English vessel, and that
+       you answered our signals and sent a boat off, we were indeed
+       <span class="pagenum">Page 117<a name="Page_117"
+       id="Page_117"></a></span>thankful; though that was nothing
+       to what we feel now at once more having a really dry ship
+       under our feet. Not that we have really suffered anything
+       very terrible, for we had a bit of shelter, and plenty to
+       eat, and the worst part was seeing our things washed
+       overboard, and thinking perhaps we might go next. We have
+       not had a dry deck since we left Swansea, and the pumps have
+       been kept going most of the time. Why, with this sea, ma'am,
+       our decks would be under water.' (This surprised me; as,
+       though low in the water, the 'Monkshaven' did not appear to
+       be overladen, and the Plimsoll mark was plainly visible.)
+       'Our boats were all ready for launching, but we had no
+       sails, and only one rudder for the three; so we should have
+       had hard work to fetch anywhere if we had taken to them. We
+       lashed the two boys&mdash;apprentices, fourteen and sixteen
+       years old&mdash;in one of the boats, for fear they should be
+       washed overboard. The youngest of them is the only son of
+       his mother, a widow; and you could see how she loved him by
+       the way she had made his clothes, and fitted him out all
+       through. He was altogether too well found for a ship like
+       ours, but now most of his things are lost. His chest could
+       not be got up from below, and though I borrowed an old
+       bread-bag from the steward, it was not half big enough, and
+       his sea-boots and things his mother had given him to keep
+       him dry and cover his bed&mdash;not oilskins, like
+       ours.'&mdash;'Mackintoshes,' I suggested.&mdash;'Yes, that's
+       the name&mdash;they were all lost. It did seem a pity. The
+       boy never thought there was much danger till this morning,
+       when I told him all hope was gone, as the American ship had
+       sailed away from us. He said, "Will the ship go to the
+       bottom?" and I replied, "I fear so; but we have good boats,
+       so keep up your heart, little man." He made no further
+       remark, but laid down gently again, and cried a little.'</p>
+
+    <p>This poor child was dreadfully frightened in the small boat
+    coming alongside, and his look of joy and relief, when
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 118<a name="Page_118"
+       id="Page_118"></a></span>once he got safely on board, was a
+       treat to me. Every one on board, including the captain,
+       seems to have been very kind to him. One of the men had his
+       foot broken by the sea, and the captain himself had his leg
+       severely injured; so the Doctor has some cases at last.</p>
+
+    <p>It was almost impossible to sleep during the night, owing to
+    the heavy rolling, by far the most violent that we have yet
+    experienced.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, September 29th</i>.&mdash;Again a fine morning. A
+    fair breeze sprang up, and, the dreaded storm having apparently
+    passed over, we ceased steaming at 6 a.m.</p>
+
+    <p>All on board are now settling down into something like
+    order. The stewards are arranging matters below, and measuring
+    out the stores, to allowance the men for twelve days. The men
+    belonging respectively to the port and starboard watches of the
+    'Monkshaven' have been placed in the corresponding watches on
+    board the 'Sunbeam.' The cook and steward are assisting ours
+    below, and the two boys are very happy, helping in the kitchen,
+    and making themselves generally useful. The deck does not look
+    quite as neat as usual. Such of the men's sea-chests as have
+    been saved are lashed round the steam-chest, so that they can
+    be got at easily, while their bags and other odd things have
+    been stowed on deck, wherever they can be kept dry; for every
+    inch of available space below is occupied. Captain Runciman is
+    writing, with tears in his eyes, the account of the loss of his
+    fine ship. He tells me that he tried in vain to save sixty
+    pounds' worth of his own private charts from his cabin, but it
+    was impossible, on account of the stifling atmosphere, which
+    nearly overpowered him. Fortunately, all his things are
+    insured. He drowned his favourite dog, a splendid Newfoundland,
+    just before leaving the ship; for, although a capital
+    watch-dog, and very faithful, he was rather large and fierce;
+    and when it was known that the 'Sunbeam' was a yacht, with
+    ladies and children on board, he feared to introduce him. Poor
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 119<a name="Page_119"
+       id="Page_119"></a></span>fellow! I wish I had known about it
+       in time to save his life!</p>
+
+    <p>The great danger of smelting coal, as a ship's cargo,
+    besides its special liability to spontaneous combustion,
+    appears to be that the fire may smoulder in the very centre of
+    the mass for so long that, when the smoke is at last
+    discovered, it is impossible to know how far the mischief has
+    advanced. It may go on smouldering quietly for days, or at any
+    moment the gas that has been generated may burst up the
+    vessel's decks from end to end, without the slightest warning.
+    Or it may burn downwards, and penetrate some portion of the
+    side of the ship below water; so that, before any suspicion has
+    been aroused, the water rushes in, and the unfortunate ship and
+    her crew go to the bottom. On board the 'Monkshaven' the men
+    dug down into the cargo in many places on Sunday night, only to
+    find that the heat became more intense the deeper they went;
+    and several of them had their hands or fingers burnt in the
+    operation.</p>
+
+    <p>This has been about the best day for sailing that we have
+    had since we left the tropics. The sea has been smooth, and a
+    fair breeze has taken us steadily along at the rate of nine
+    knots an hour. The sun shone brightly beneath a blue sky, and
+    the temperature is delightful. The sunset was grand, though the
+    sky looked threatening; but the moon rose brilliantly, and
+    until we went to bed, at ten o'clock, the evening was as
+    perfect as the day had been. At midnight, however, Tom and I
+    were awakened by a knock at our cabin door, and the gruff voice
+    of Powell, saying: 'The barometer's going down very fast,
+    please, sir, and it's lightning awful in the sou'-west. There's
+    a heavy storm coming up.' We were soon on deck, where we found
+    all hands busily engaged in preparing for the tempest. Around
+    us a splendid sight presented itself. On one side a heavy bank
+    of black clouds could be seen rapidly approaching, while the
+    rest of the heavens were brilliantly illuminated by forked and
+    sheet lightning, the thunder <span class="pagenum">Page
+    120<a name="Page_120"
+       id="Page_120"></a></span> meanwhile rolling and rattling
+       without intermission. An ominous calm followed, during which
+       the men had barely time to lower all the sails on deck,
+       without waiting to stow them, the foresail and jib only
+       being left standing, when the squall struck us, not very
+       severely, but with a blast as hot as that from a furnace. We
+       thought worse was coming, and continued our preparations;
+       but the storm passed rapidly away to windward, and was
+       succeeded by torrents of rain, so that it was evident we
+       could only have had quite the tail of it.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, September 30th</i>.&mdash;The morning broke
+    bright and clear, and was followed by a calm, bright, sunny
+    day, of which I availed myself to take some photographs of the
+    captain and crew of the 'Monkshaven.' The wind failed us
+    entirely in the afternoon, and it became necessary to get up
+    steam. In the ordinary course of things, we should probably
+    have had sufficient patience to wait for the return of the
+    breeze; but the recent large addition to our party made it
+    desirable for us to lose as little time as possible in reaching
+    Sandy Point. Another grand but wild-looking sunset seemed like
+    the precursor of a storm; but we experienced nothing worse than
+    a sharp squall of hot wind, accompanied by thunder and
+    lightning.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, October 1st</i>.&mdash;A fine morning, with a
+    fair wind. At eleven we had a short service, at four a longer
+    one, with an excellent sermon from Tom, specially adapted to
+    the rescue of the crew of the burning ship. As usual, the
+    sunset, which was magnificent, was succeeded by a slight storm,
+    which passed over without doing us any harm.</p>
+
+    <p>I have said that it was found impossible to save any
+    provisions from the 'Monkshaven.' As far as the men are
+    concerned, I think this is hardly to be regretted, for I am
+    told that the salt beef with which they were supplied had lain
+    in pickle for so many years that the saltpetre had eaten all
+    the nourishment out of it, and had made it so hard that the
+    men, instead of eating it, used to amuse themselves by carving
+    it into snuff-boxes, little models of ships, &amp;c. I
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 121<a name="Page_121"
+       id="Page_121"></a></span> should not, however, omit to
+       mention that Captain Runciman managed to bring away with him
+       four excellent York hams, which he presented to us, and one
+       of which we had to-day at dinner.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, October 4th</i>.&mdash;At 6 a.m., on going on
+    deck I found we were hove-to under steam and closely-reefed
+    sails, a heavy gale blowing from the south-west, right ahead.
+    The screw was racing round in the air every time we encountered
+    an unusually big wave; the spray was dashing over the vessel,
+    and the water was rushing along the deck&mdash;altogether an
+    uncomfortable morning. As the sun rose, the gale abated, and in
+    the course of the day the reefs were shaken out of the sails,
+    one by one, until, by sunset, we were once more under whole
+    canvas, beating to windward. There were several cries of 'land
+    ahead' during the day, but in each case a closer examination,
+    through a glass, proved that the fancied coast-line or
+    mountain-top existed only in cloud-land.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, October 5th</i>.&mdash;We made the land early,
+    and most uninteresting it looked, consisting, as it did, of a
+    low sandy shore, with a background of light clay-coloured
+    cliffs. Not a vestige of vegetation was anywhere to be seen,
+    and I am quite at a loss to imagine what the guanacos and
+    ostriches, with which the chart tells us the country hereabouts
+    abounds, find to live upon. About twelve o'clock we made Cape
+    Virgins, looking very like Berry Head to the north of Torbay,
+    and a long spit of low sandy land, stretching out to the
+    southward, appropriately called Dungeness.</p>
+
+    <p>Some of the charts brought on board by Captain Runciman were
+    published by Messrs. Imray, of London, and in one of them it is
+    represented that a fine fixed light has been established on
+    Cape Virgins<a name="FNanchor_2_2"
+       id="FNanchor_2_2">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_2_2"
+       class="fnanchor">[2]</a> This we knew to be an
+       <span class="pagenum">Page 122<a name="Page_122"
+       id="Page_122"></a></span>impossibility, not only on account
+       of the general character of the country, but because no
+       indication is given of the light in our newest Admiralty
+       charts. Captain Runciman, however, had more confidence in
+       the correctness of his own chart, and could hardly believe
+       his eyes when he saw that the light really had no existence
+       on the bare bleak headland. His faith was terribly shaken,
+       and I hope he will not omit to call Messrs. Imray's
+       attention to the matter on his return home; for the mistake
+       is most serious, and one which might lead to the destruction
+       of many a good ship.</p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_2_2"
+           id="Footnote_2_2"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a>
+           I have since received a letter from Messrs. Imray
+           requesting me to state that the light was inserted on
+           erroneous information from the hydrographic office at
+           Washington, and has since been erased from their
+           charts.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>About two o'clock we saw in the far distance what looked at
+    first like an island, and then like smoke, but gradually shaped
+    itself into the masts, funnel, and hull of a large steamer.
+    From her rig we at once guessed her to be the Pacific Company's
+    mail boat, homeward bound. When near enough, we accordingly
+    hoisted our number, and signalled 'We wish to communicate,'
+    whereupon she bore down upon us and ceased steaming. We then
+    rounded up under her lee and lowered a boat, and Tom, Mabelle,
+    and I, with Captain Runciman and four or five of the
+    shipwrecked crew, went on board. Our advent caused great
+    excitement, and seamen and passengers all crowded into the bows
+    to watch us. As we approached the ladder the passengers ran
+    aft, and directly we reached the deck the captain took
+    possession of Tom, the first and second officers of Mabelle and
+    myself, while Captain Runciman and each of his crew were
+    surrounded by a little audience eager to know what had
+    happened, and all about it. At first it was thought that we all
+    wanted a passage, but when we explained matters Captain Thomas,
+    the commander of the 'Illimani,' very kindly undertook to
+    receive all our refugees and convey them to England. We
+    therefore sent the gig back for the rest of the men and the
+    chests of the whole party, and then availed ourselves of the
+    opportunity afforded by the delay to walk round the ship. It
+    was most amusing to see the interest with which we were
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 123<a name="Page_123"
+       id="Page_123"></a></span>regarded by all on board.
+       Passengers who had never been seen out of their berths since
+       leaving Valparaiso, and others who were indulging, at the
+       time of our visit, in the luxury of a 'day sleep,' between
+       the twelve o'clock luncheon and four o'clock dinner,
+       suddenly made their appearance, in dressing-gowns and wraps,
+       with dishevelled hair and wide-opened eyes, gazing in mute
+       astonishment at us, quite unable to account for our
+       mysterious arrival on board in this out-of-the-way spot. A
+       mail steamer does not stop for a light cause, and it was
+       therefore evident to them that the present was no ordinary
+       occurrence. The captain told us that the last time he passed
+       through the Straits he picked up two boats' crews, who had
+       escaped from a burning ship, and who had suffered
+       indescribable hardships before they were rescued.</p>
+
+    <p>Captain Runciman is convinced, after comparing notes with
+    the chief officer of the 'Illimani,' that the vessel which
+    refused to notice his signal of distress was the 'Wilmington,'
+    sent down from New York, with a party of forty wreckers, to try
+    and get the steamer 'Georgia' off the rocks near Port Famine,
+    in the Straits of Magellan. If this be so, it is the more
+    surprising that no attempt was made to render assistance to the
+    'Monkshaven,' provided her signals were understood, as the
+    'Wilmington' had plenty of spare hands, and could not have been
+    in a particular hurry. Moreover, one would think that, with her
+    powerful engines, she might have made an attempt to tow the
+    distressed vessel into Monte Video, and so secure three or four
+    thousand pounds of salvage money.</p>
+
+    <p>The captain of the 'Illimani' kindly gave us half a bullock,
+    killed this morning, a dozen live ducks and chickens, and the
+    latest newspapers. Thus supplied with food for body and mind,
+    we said farewell, and returned to the 'Sunbeam;' our ensigns
+    were duly dipped, we steamed away on our respective courses,
+    and in less than an hour we were out of sight of each other. It
+    is a sudden change <span class="pagenum">Page
+    124<a name="Page_124"
+       id="Page_124"></a></span>for the 'Monkshaven' men, who were
+       all very reluctant to leave the yacht. Many of them broke
+       down at the last moment, particularly when it came to saying
+       good-bye to Tom and me, at the gangway of the steamer. They
+       had seemed thoroughly to appreciate any kindnesses they
+       received while with us, and were anxious to show their
+       gratitude in every possible way. The two boys, especially,
+       were in great grief at their departure, and were very loth
+       to part with their boatswain, who remains with us to make up
+       our complement<a name="FNanchor_3_3"
+       id="FNanchor_3_3">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_3_3"
+       class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_3_3"
+           id="Footnote_3_3"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a>
+           After our return to England the following letter reached
+           us from Messrs. Smales:&mdash;</p>
+
+        <p class="author">'Whitby, June 30th, 1877.</p>
+
+        <p>'THOMAS BRASSEY, Esq.</p>
+
+        <p>'DEAR SIR,&mdash;Observing by the newspapers that you
+        have returned home after your cruise, we take this
+        opportunity of thanking you most heartily for the valuable
+        assistance you rendered to the crew of our late barque
+        "Monkshaven," in lat. 43 28 S., lon. 62 21 W., after she
+        proved to be on fire and beyond saving. Your kind favour of
+        October 1 last duly reached us, and it was very
+        satisfactory to know from an authority like your own, that
+        all was done under the trying circumstances that was
+        possible, to save the ship and cargo. The inconvenience of
+        having so many extra hands for the time on board your
+        vessel, must have tried your resources; but you will be
+        probably aware that the Board of Trade willingly compensate
+        for loss sustained in rescuing a crew, when a claim is
+        made. You will be glad to learn that the master and crew
+        arrived all well, in due course, at Liverpool, by the
+        "Illimani," and were very grateful for your kindness to
+        them. Our ill-fated vessel must have sunk very soon after
+        you took off the crew, as nothing more has been heard of
+        her, and it was a most fortunate circumstance that you were
+        so near at hand, more especially as the captain reported to
+        us, that a vessel carrying the American colours took no
+        notice of his signal of distress. As shipowners, we
+        generally find that our own countrymen are more heroic, and
+        always ready to lend a helping hand to brother mariners in
+        distress, so that, as you say, we do not doubt you
+        experienced some satisfaction in rendering this
+        service.&mdash;Trusting that you have enjoyed your trip, we
+        beg to remain yours, truly obliged,</p>
+
+        <p class="author">'SMALES Brothers.'</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>About 8 p.m. we anchored for the night in Possession Bay. It
+    was thick at sunset, but afterwards clear and cold, with a
+    splendid moon.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, October 6th</i>.&mdash;We got under way at 5.30
+    a.m., and steamed past the low sandy coast of Patagonia and the
+    rugged mountains of Tierra del Fuego, and through the First and
+    Second Narrows, to Cape Negro, where the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 125<a name="Page_125"
+       id="Page_125"></a></span>character of the scenery began to
+       improve a little, the vegetation gradually changing from low
+       scrubby brushwood to respectable-sized trees. When passing
+       between Elizabeth Island, so named by Sir Francis Drake, and
+       the island of Santa Madalena, we looked in vain for the
+       myriads of seals, otters, and sea-lions with which this
+       portion of the Straits is said to abound; but we saw only
+       seven or eight little black spots on the shore, in the
+       distance, which disappeared into the sea as we
+       approached.</p>
+
+    <p>At 3 p.m. we reached Sandy Point, the only civilised place
+    in the Straits. It is a Chilian settlement, and a large convict
+    establishment has been formed here by the Government. Almost
+    before we had dropped our anchor, the harbour-master came on
+    board, closely followed by the officers of the two Chilian
+    men-of-war lying in the harbour. The rain, which had been
+    threatening all day, now descended in torrents, and we landed
+    in a perfect downpour. We thought the pier at Buenos Ayres
+    unsafe and rickety, but here matters were still worse, for the
+    head of the structure had been completely washed away by a
+    gale, and no little care was necessary in order to step across
+    the broken timbers in safety. The town, which contains between
+    1,200 and 1,300 inhabitants, is composed entirely of
+    one-storied log huts, with slate or tile roofs, and with or
+    without verandahs. They are all arranged in squares, separated
+    from each other by wide roads; and the whole settlement is
+    surrounded by stockades. At the further end of the town stands
+    the convict prison, distinguished by its tower, and the
+    Governor's house, which, though built of wood, is the most
+    pretentious-looking edifice in the place. There is a nice
+    little church close by, and some tidy-looking barracks.</p>
+
+    <p>We went straight to the house of the British Vice-Consul,
+    who received us very kindly, and promised to do what he could
+    to assist us in obtaining supplies; but the resources of the
+    place are limited, and eggs, ship's beef
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 126<a name="Page_126"
+       id="Page_126"></a></span>and biscuits, and water, will, I
+       expect, be the sum total of what we shall be able to
+       procure. In fact, it is rather doubtful whether we shall
+       even be able to renew our stock of coal. In the meantime we
+       started off to potter about the town, finding, however, very
+       little to amuse us. There were some new-laid ostrich eggs to
+       be bought, and some queer-looking worked Patagonian
+       saddle-bags.</p>
+
+    <p>I fear we shall not see any of the Patagonians themselves,
+    for they come to the colony only three or four times a year, to
+    purchase supplies, and to sell skins and ostrich eggs. They are
+    a mounted tribe of Indians, living on the northern plains, and
+    are now on their way down here, to pay one of their periodical
+    visits; but, being encumbered with their families, they move
+    very slowly, and are not expected to arrive for another ten
+    days. They will no doubt bring a splendid supply of skins, just
+    too late for us, which is rather disappointing, particularly as
+    we are not likely to have another opportunity of meeting with
+    them at any of the places we touch at. They live so far in the
+    interior of the country that they very seldom visit the
+    coast.</p>
+
+    <p>We went to see three Fuegian females, who are living in a
+    house belonging to the medical officer of the colony. They were
+    picked up a short time since by a passing steamer from a canoe,
+    in which they had evidently sought refuge from some kind of
+    cruelty or oppression. The biggest of them, a stout
+    fine-looking woman, had a terrible gash in her leg, quite
+    recently inflicted, and the youngest was not more than eight
+    years old. They appeared cheerful and happy, but we were told
+    that they are not likely to live long. After the free life and
+    the exposure to which they have been accustomed,
+    civilisation&mdash;in the shape of clothing and hot
+    houses&mdash;almost always kills them. Their lungs become
+    diseased, and they die miserably. Their skin is slightly
+    copper-coloured, their complexions high-coloured, their hair
+    thick and black; and, though certainly not handsome,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 127<a name="Page_127"
+       id="Page_127"></a></span>they are by no means so repulsive
+       as I had expected from the descriptions of Cook, Dampier,
+       Darwin, and other more recent travellers.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_142"
+             id="Illus_142"></a> <img src="images/t_142.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="172"
+             alt="Illustration: Fuegian Weapons"
+             title="Illustration: Fuegian Weapons" /><br />
+        <b>Fuegian Weapons</b><br />
+        <a href="images/142.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, October 7th</i>.&mdash;My birthday. Tom gave me
+    a beautiful guanaco-skin robe, and the children presented me
+    with two ostrich rugs. The guanaco is a kind of large deer, and
+    it is said that the robes made from its skin are the warmest in
+    the world. People here assure me that, with the hair turned
+    inside, these robes have afforded them sufficient protection to
+    enable them to sleep in comfort in the open air, exposed to
+    snow, frost, and rain. They are made from the skin of the young
+    fawns, killed before they are thirteen days old, or, better
+    still, from the skins of those which have never had an
+    independent existence. In colour, the animals are a yellowish
+    brown on the back, and white underneath, and they are so small
+    that when each skin is split up it produces only two triangular
+    patches, about the size of one's hand. A number of these are
+    then, with infinite trouble, sewed neatly together by the
+    Indian women, who use the fine leg-sinews of the ostrich as
+    thread. Those worn by the caciques, or chiefs, have generally a
+    pattern in the centre, a brown edging, and spots
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 128<a name="Page_128"
+       id="Page_128"></a></span> of red and blue paint on the part
+       which is worn outwards. Such robes are particularly
+       difficult to obtain, on account of the labour and time
+       necessary to produce them. Each cacique keeps several wives
+       constantly employed in making them, of the best as well as
+       of the ordinary description. The ostrich rugs, which are
+       made here, are more ornamental, though not so warm and light
+       as the guanaco robes. They are made of the entire skin of
+       the ostrich, from which the long wing-feathers have been
+       pulled out. Mabelle has been given a beautiful little rug
+       composed of the skins of thirty little ostriches, all from
+       one nest, killed when they were a fortnight old, each skin
+       resembling a prettily marked ball of fluff.</p>
+
+    <p>At eleven o'clock we went ashore. The Governor had kindly
+    provided horses for all the party, and while they were being
+    saddled I took some photographs. There are plenty of horses
+    here, but the only saddles and bridles to be had are those used
+    by the natives. The saddles are very cumbrous and clumsy to
+    look at, though rather picturesque. They are formed of two bits
+    of wood, covered with about a dozen sheepskins and ponchos; not
+    at all uncomfortable to ride in, and very suitable for a
+    night's bivouac in the open. 'Plenty of nice soft rugs to lie
+    upon and cover yourself with, instead of a hard English saddle
+    for your bed and stirrups for blankets,' as a native once said,
+    when asked which he preferred. About one o'clock we started,
+    accompanied by the officers commanding the garrison and two
+    attendant cavaliers, equipped in Chilian style, with enormous
+    carved modern stirrups, heavy bits and spurs much bigger than
+    those whose size struck us so much in the Argentine Republic.
+    We had a pleasant ride, first across a sandy plain and through
+    one or two small rivers, to a saw-mill, situated on the edge of
+    an extensive forest, through which we proceeded for some miles.
+    The road was a difficult one, and our progress was but slow,
+    being often impeded by a morass or by the trunk of a tree which
+    had <span class="pagenum">Page 129<a name="Page_129"
+       id="Page_129"></a></span>fallen right across the path, and
+       was now rapidly rotting into touchwood under the influence
+       of the damp atmosphere and incessant rain. Lichens of every
+       colour and shape abounded, and clothed the trunks
+       gracefully, contrasting with the tender spring tints of the
+       leaves, while the long hairy tillandsia, like an old man's
+       beard, three or four feet long, hung down from the topmost
+       branches. The ground was carpeted with moss, interspersed
+       with a few early spring flowers, and the whole scene, though
+       utterly unlike that presented by any English forest, had a
+       strange weird beauty of its own. Not a sound could be heard;
+       not a bird, beast, or insect was to be seen. The larger
+       trees were principally a peculiar sort of beech and red
+       cedar, but all kinds of evergreens, known to us at home as
+       shrubs, such as laurestine, and various firs, here attain
+       the proportions of forest-trees. There is also a tree called
+       Winter's Bark (<i>Drimys Winteri</i>), the leaves and bark
+       of which are hot and bitter, and form an excellent
+       substitute for quinine. But the most striking objects were
+       the evergreen berberis and mahonia, and the Darwinia, the
+       larger sort of which was covered with brilliant orange,
+       almost scarlet, flowers, which hung down in bunches, of the
+       shape and size of small outdoor grapes.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_144"
+             id="Illus_144"></a> <img src="images/t_144.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="65"
+             alt="Illustration: Fuegian Bow and Arrows"
+             title="Illustration: Fuegian Bow and Arrows" /><br />
+        <b>Fuegian Bow and Arrows</b><br />
+        <a href="images/144.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>On our way back we took a sharp turn leading to the
+    sea-shore, to which the forest extends in places, and rode
+    along the beach towards the town. It was low water, or this
+    would not have been possible, and as it was, we often had
+    considerable difficulty in making our way between wood and
+    water. The day was bright and clear, with a bitterly cold wind
+    and occasional heavy showers of rain; a
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 130<a name="Page_130"
+       id="Page_130"></a></span>fair average day for Sandy Point.
+       It is further west, they say, that the weather is so
+       hopeless. Lieutenant Byron, in his terribly interesting
+       account of the wreck of the 'Wager,' says that one fine day
+       in three months is the most that can be expected. I wonder,
+       not without misgivings, if we really shall encounter all the
+       bad weather we not only read of but hear of from every one
+       we meet. Though very anxious to see the celebrated Straits,
+       I shall not be sorry when we are safely through, and I trust
+       that the passage may not occupy the whole of the three weeks
+       which Tom has been advised to allow for it.</p>
+
+    <p>We saw a few sea-birds, specially some 'steamer-ducks,' so
+    called from their peculiar mode of progression through the
+    water. They neither swim nor fly, but use their wings like the
+    paddles of a steamer, with a great noise and splutter, and go
+    along very fast. On reaching the plains we had an opportunity
+    of testing the speed of our horses, which warmed us up a little
+    after our slow progress by the water's edge in the bitter wind.
+    We rode all round the stockades, outside the town, before
+    dismounting; but I saw nothing of special interest. Before the
+    party broke up, arrangements were made for us to go to morrow
+    to one of the Government corrals, to see the cattle lassoed and
+    branded&mdash;an operation which is always performed twice a
+    year.</p>
+
+    <p>We reached the yacht again at half-past five. Dr. Fenton
+    came on board to dinner, and from him we heard a great deal
+    about the colony, the Patagonians or Horse Indians, and the
+    Fuegians or Canoe Indians. The former inhabit, or rather roam
+    over, a vast tract of country. They are almost constantly on
+    horseback, and their only shelter consists of toldos, or tents,
+    made of the skins of the old guanacos, stretched across a few
+    poles. They are tall and strong, averaging six feet in height,
+    and are bulky in proportion; but their size is nothing like so
+    great as old travellers have represented. Both men and women
+    wear a long flowing mantle of skins, <span class="pagenum">Page
+    131<a name="Page_131"
+       id="Page_131"></a></span>reaching from the waist to the
+       ankle, with a large loose piece hanging down on one side,
+       ready to be thrown over their heads whenever necessary,
+       which is fastened by a large flat pin hammered out either
+       from the rough silver or from a dollar. This, their sole
+       garment, has the effect of adding greatly in appearance to
+       their height. They never wash, but daub their bodies with
+       paint and grease, especially the women. Their only weapons
+       are knives and bolas, the latter of which they throw with
+       unerring precision. During their visits to the Sandy Point
+       settlement their arms are always taken from them, for they
+       are extremely quarrelsome, particularly when drunk. Nobody
+       has been able to ascertain that they possess any form of
+       sacred belief, or that they perform any religious
+       ceremonies. Their food consists principally of the flesh of
+       mares, troops of which animals always accompany them on
+       their excursions. They also eat ostrich-flesh, which is
+       considered a great delicacy, as well as the fish the women
+       catch, and the birds' eggs they find. Vegetable food is
+       almost unknown to them, and bread is never used, though they
+       do sometimes purchase a little flour, rice, and a few
+       biscuits, on the occasion of their visits to the colony.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_146"
+             id="Illus_146"></a> <img src="images/t_146.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="95"
+             alt="Illustration: Pin for fastening Cloak, made from a Dollar, beaten out"
+             title="Illustration: Pin for fastening Cloak, made from a Dollar, beaten out" />
+        <br />
+        <b>Pin for fastening Cloak, made from a Dollar, beaten
+        out</b><br />
+        <a href="images/146.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The Fuegians, or Canoe Indians, as they are generally
+    called, from their living so much on the water, and having no
+    settled habitations on shore, are a much smaller race of
+    savages, inhabiting Tierra del Fuego&mdash;literally Land of
+    Fire&mdash;so called from the custom the inhabitants have of
+    lighting fires on prominent points as signals of assembly.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 132<a name="Page_132"
+       id="Page_132"></a></span>The English residents here
+       invariably call it Fireland&mdash;a name I had never heard
+       before, and which rather puzzled me at first. Whenever it is
+       observed that a ship is in distress, or that shipwrecked
+       mariners have been cast ashore, the signal-fires appear as
+       if by magic, and the natives flock together like vultures
+       round a carcase. On the other hand, if all goes well,
+       vessels often pass through the Straits without seeing a
+       single human being, the savages and their canoes lying
+       concealed beneath the overhanging branches of trees on the
+       shore. They are cannibals, and are placed by Darwin in the
+       lowest scale of humanity. An old author describes them as
+       'magpies in chatter, baboons in countenance, and imps in
+       treachery.' Those frequenting the eastern end of the Straits
+       wear&mdash;if they wear anything at all&mdash;a deerskin
+       mantle, descending to the waist: those at the western end
+       wear cloaks made from the skin of the sea-otter. But most of
+       them are quite naked. Their food is of the most meagre
+       description, and consists mainly of shell-fish, sea-eggs,
+       for which the women dive with much dexterity, and fish,
+       which they train their dogs to assist them in catching.
+       These dogs are sent into the water at the entrance to a
+       narrow creek or small bay, and they then bark and flounder
+       about and drive the fish before them into shallow water,
+       where they are caught.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_147"
+             id="Illus_147"></a> <img src="images/t_147.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="82"
+             alt="Illustration: Fuegian Boat and Oars"
+             title="Illustration: Fuegian Boat and Oars" /><br />
+        <b>Fuegian Boat and Oars</b><br />
+        <a href="images/147.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Bishop Stirling, of the Falkland Islands, has been cruising
+    about these parts in a small schooner, and visiting the
+    natives, for the last twelve years, and the Governor here tells
+    us that he has done much good in promoting
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 133<a name="Page_133"
+       id="Page_133"></a></span>their civilisation; while the
+       hardships he has endured, and the difficulties and dangers
+       he has surmounted, have required almost superhuman energy
+       and fortitude on his part. The Fuegians, as far as is known,
+       have no religion of their own.</p>
+
+    <p>The 'Wilmington' came in this morning. Her captain declares
+    that as the 'Monkshaven' was not hove-to, he never thought that
+    there could be anything seriously amiss with her. His glass was
+    not good enough to enable him to make out the union-jack
+    reversed, or the signal of distress, which he therefore
+    supposed to be merely the ship's number. It was satisfactory to
+    hear this explanation; and as not only the interests of
+    humanity, but his own, were involved, there is every reason to
+    believe that his account of the transaction is perfectly
+    true.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 134<a name="Page_134"
+       id="Page_134"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_IX"
+       id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">SANDY POINT TO LOTA BAY.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>And far abroad the canvas wings
+            extend</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Along the glassy
+            plain the vessel glides</i>,<br /></span>
+            <span><i>While azure radiance trembles on her
+            sides</i>.<br /></span> <span><i>The lunar rays in long
+            reflection gleam</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>With silver
+            deluging the fluid stream</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, October 8th</i>.&mdash;At 6 a.m. we weighed
+    anchor, and proceeded on our voyage. At first there was not
+    much to admire in the way of scenery, the shores being low and
+    sandy, with occasional patches of scrubby brushwood, and a
+    background of granite rocks and mountains.</p>
+
+    <p>Soon after passing Port Famine we saw the bold outline of
+    Cape Froward, the southernmost point of South America,
+    stretching into the Straits. It is a fine headland, and Tom
+    ordered the engines to be stopped in order to enable Mr.
+    Bingham to sketch, and me to photograph, both it and the
+    splendid view back through the channel we had just traversed to
+    the snowy range of mountains in the distance, crowned by Mount
+    Sarmiento, not unlike the Matterhorn in appearance.</p>
+
+    <p>At this point the weather generally changes, and I suppose
+    we must look forward to living in mackintoshes for some little
+    time to come.</p>
+
+    <p>In the afternoon, when in English Reach, where many vessels
+    have been lost, great excitement was caused on board by the
+    appearance of a canoe on our port bow. She was stealing out
+    from the Barbara Channel, and as she appeared to be making
+    direct for us, Tom ordered the <span class="pagenum">Page
+    135<a name="Page_135"
+       id="Page_135"></a></span>engines to be slowed. Her occupants
+       thereupon redoubled their efforts, and came paddling towards
+       us, shouting and making the most frantic gesticulations, one
+       man waving a skin round his head with an amount of energy
+       that threatened to upset the canoe. This frail craft, upon a
+       nearer inspection, proved to be made only of rough planks,
+       rudely tied together with the sinews of animals; in fact,
+       one of the party had to bale constantly, in order to keep
+       her afloat. We flung them a rope, and they came alongside,
+       shouting 'Tab&aacute;co, gall&eacute;ta' (biscuit), a supply
+       of which we threw down to them, in exchange for the skins
+       they had been waving; whereupon the two men stripped
+       themselves of the skin mantles they were wearing, made of
+       eight or ten sea-otter skins sewed together with finer
+       sinews than those used for the boat, and handed them up,
+       clamouring <span class="pagenum">Page 136<a name="Page_136"
+       id="Page_136"></a></span>for more tobacco, which we gave
+       them, together with some beads and
+       knives<a name="FNanchor_4_4"
+       id="FNanchor_4_4">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_4_4"
+       class="fnanchor">[4]</a> Finally, the woman, influenced by
+       this example, parted with her sole garment, in return for a
+       little more tobacco, some beads, and some looking-glasses I
+       had thrown into the canoe.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_150"
+             id="Illus_150"></a> <img src="images/t_150.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="209"
+             alt="Illustration: Bartering with Fuegians"
+             title="Illustration: Bartering with Fuegians" /><br />
+        <b>Bartering with Fuegians</b><br />
+        <a href="images/150.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_4_4"
+           id="Footnote_4_4"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a>
+           These skins proved to be the very finest quality ever
+           plucked, and each separate skin was valued in England at
+           from 4<i>l</i>. to 5<i>l</i>.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The party consisted of a man, a woman, and a lad; and I
+    think I never saw delight more strongly depicted than it was on
+    the faces of the two latter, when they handled, for the first
+    time in their lives probably, some strings of blue, red, and
+    green glass beads. They had two rough pots, made of bark, in
+    the boat, which they also sold, after which they reluctantly
+    departed, quite naked but very happy, shouting and jabbering
+    away in the most inarticulate language imaginable. It was with
+    great difficulty we could make them let go the rope, when we
+    went ahead, and I was quite afraid they would be upset. They
+    were all fat and healthy-looking, and, though not handsome,
+    their appearance was by no means repulsive; the countenance of
+    the woman, especially, wore quite a pleasing expression, when
+    lighted up with smiles at the sight of the beads and
+    looking-glasses. The bottom of their canoe was covered with
+    branches, amongst which the ashes of a recent fire were
+    distinguishable. Their paddles were of the very roughest
+    description, consisting simply of split branches of trees, with
+    wider pieces tied on at one end with the sinews of birds or
+    beasts.</p>
+
+    <p>Steaming ahead, past Port Gallant, we had a glorious view
+    over Carlos III. Island and Thornton Peaks, until, at about
+    seven o clock, we anchored in the little harbour of Borja Bay.
+    This place is encircled by luxuriant vegetation, overhanging
+    the water, and is set like a gem amid the granite rocks close
+    at hand, and the far-distant snowy mountains.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_152"
+             id="Illus_152"></a> <img src="images/t_152.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="202"
+             alt="Illustration: Thornton Peaks"
+             title="Illustration: Thornton Peaks" /><br />
+        <b>Thornton Peaks</b><br />
+        <a href="images/152.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 137<a name="Page_137"
+       id="Page_137"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>Our carpenter had prepared a board, on which the name of the
+    yacht and the date had been painted, to be fixed on shore, as a
+    record of our visit; and as soon as the anchor was down we all
+    landed, the gentlemen with their guns, and the crew fully armed
+    with pistols and rifles, in case of accident. The water was
+    quite deep close to the shore, and we had no difficulty in
+    landing, near a small waterfall. To penetrate far inland,
+    however, was not so easy, owing to the denseness of the
+    vegetation. Large trees had fallen, and, rotting where they
+    lay, under the influence of the humid atmosphere, had become
+    the birthplace of thousands of other trees, shrubs, plants,
+    ferns, mosses, and lichens. In fact, in some places we might
+    almost be said to be walking on the tops of the trees, and
+    first one and then another of the party found his feet suddenly
+    slipping through into unknown depths below. Under these
+    circumstances we <span class="pagenum">Page
+    138<a name="Page_138"
+       id="Page_138"></a></span>were contented with a very short
+       ramble, and having filled our baskets with a varied
+       collection of mosses and ferns, we returned to the shore,
+       where we found many curious shells and some excellent
+       mussels. While we had been thus engaged, the carpenter and
+       some of the crew were employed in nailing up our board on a
+       tree we had selected for the purpose. It was in company with
+       the names of many good ships, a portion of which only were
+       still legible, many of the boards having fallen to the
+       ground and become quite rotten.</p>
+
+    <p>Near the beach we found the remains of a recent fire, and in
+    the course of the night the watch on deck, which was doubled
+    and well-armed, heard shouts and hoots proceeding from the
+    neighbourhood of the shore. Towards morning, too, the fire was
+    relighted, from which it was evident that the natives were not
+    far off, though they did not actually put in an appearance. I
+    suppose they think there is a probability of making something
+    out of us by fair means, and that, unlike a sealing schooner,
+    with only four or five hands on board, and no motive power but
+    her sails, we are rather too formidable to attack.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, October 9th</i>.&mdash;We are indeed most
+    fortunate in having another fine day. At 6 a.m. the anchor was
+    weighed, and we resumed our journey. It was very cold; but that
+    was not to be wondered at, surrounded as we are on every side
+    by magnificent snow-clad mountains and superb glaciers. First
+    we passed Snowy Sound, in Tierra del Fuego, at the head of
+    which is an immense blue glacier. Then came Cape Notch, so
+    called from its looking as if it had had a piece chopped out of
+    it. Within a few yards of the surrounding glaciers, and close
+    to the sea, the vegetation is abundant, and in many places
+    semi-tropical, a fact which is due to the comparatively mild
+    winters, the temperate summers, the moist climate, and the rich
+    soil of these parts. Passing up English Reach, we now caught
+    our first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean, between Cape Pillar on
+    one <span class="pagenum">Page 139<a name="Page_139"
+       id="Page_139"></a></span>side, and Westminster Hall, Shell
+       Bay, and Lecky Point, on the other. Steering to the north,
+       and leaving these on our left hand, we issued from the
+       Straits of Magellan, and entered Smyth's Channel, first
+       passing Glacier Bay and Ice Sound, names which speak for
+       themselves. Mount Joy, Mount Burney, with its round
+       snow-covered summit, rising six thousand feet from the
+       water, and several unnamed peaks, were gradually left
+       behind; until, at last, after threading a labyrinth of small
+       islands, we anchored for the night in Otter Bay, a snug
+       little cove, at the entrance to the intricacies of the Mayne
+       Channel.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_154"
+             id="Illus_154"></a> <img src="images/t_154.jpg"
+             width="148"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Glaciers. Snowy Sound"
+             title="Illustration: Glaciers. Snowy Sound" /><br />
+        <b>Glaciers. Snowy Sound</b><br />
+        <a href="images/154.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>It was almost dark when we arrived, but the children,
+    Captain Brown, and I, went on shore for a short time, and
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 140<a name="Page_140"
+       id="Page_140"></a></span>gathered a few ferns and mosses. We
+       also found the embers of a fire, which showed that the
+       natives were not far off, and we therefore thought it
+       prudent to hurry on board again before nightfall. No names
+       of ships were to be seen; but, in our search for ferns, we
+       may possibly have overlooked them. We have not come across
+       any Fuegians to-day, though in two of the places we have
+       passed&mdash;Shell Bay and Deep Harbour, where a few wigwams
+       are left standing as a sort of head-quarters&mdash;they are
+       generally to be met with. During the night the watch again
+       heard the natives shouting; but no attempt was made to
+       re-light the fire we had noticed, until we were steaming out
+       of the bay the next morning.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, October 10th</i>.&mdash;In the early morning,
+    when we resumed our voyage, the weather was still fine; but a
+    few light clouds were here and there visible, and an icy wind,
+    sweeping down from the mountains, made it appear very cold,
+    though the thermometer&mdash;which averages, I think, 40&deg;
+    to 50&deg; all the year round&mdash;was not really low. The
+    line of perpetual snow commences here at an elevation of from
+    2,500 to 3,500 feet only, which adds greatly to the beauty of
+    the scene; and as it is now early spring the snow is still
+    unmelted, 500 feet, and even less, from the shore. The
+    stupendous glaciers run right down into the sea, and immense
+    masses of ice, sometimes larger than a ship, are continually
+    breaking off, with a noise like thunder, and falling into the
+    water, sending huge waves across to the opposite shore, and
+    sometimes completely blocking up the channels. Some of these
+    glaciers, composed entirely of blue and green ice and the
+    purest snow, are fifteen and twenty miles in length. They are
+    by far the finest we have, any of us, ever seen; and even those
+    of Norway and Switzerland sink into comparative insignificance
+    beside them. The mountains here are not so high as those of
+    Europe, but they really appear more lofty, as their entire
+    surface, from the water's edge to the extreme summit, is
+    clearly visible. At this end of the Straits they
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 141<a name="Page_141"
+       id="Page_141"></a></span>terminate in peaks, resembling
+       Gothic spires, carved in the purest snow; truly 'virgin
+       peaks,' on which the eye of man has but seldom rested, and
+       which his foot has never touched. They are generally veiled
+       in clouds of snow, mist, and driving rain, and it is quite
+       the exception to see them as distinctly as we now do.</p>
+
+    <p>After leaving Mayne's Channel, and passing through Union and
+    Collingwood Sounds, we found ourselves beneath the shadow of
+    the splendid Cordilleras of Sarmiento&mdash;quite distinct from
+    Mount Sarmiento, already referred to&mdash;along the foot of
+    which extended the largest glacier we have yet
+    seen<a name="FNanchor_5_5"
+       id="FNanchor_5_5">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_5_5"
+       class="fnanchor">[5]</a> With Tarleton Pass on our right
+       hand, and Childer's Pass on the left, we came in sight of
+       Owen's Island, one extremity of which is called Mayne Head,
+       and the other Cape Brassey, these places having all been so
+       named by Captain Mayne, during his survey in the 'Nassau,'
+       in 1869. Near the island of Esperanza, the clouds having by
+       that time completely cleared away, and the sun shining
+       brightly, we had a splendid view of another range of snowy
+       mountains, with Stoke's Monument towering high in their
+       midst. The numerous floating icebergs added greatly to the
+       exquisite beauty of the scene. Some loomed high as
+       mountains, while others had melted into the most fanciful
+       and fairy-like shapes&mdash;huge swans, full-rigged ships,
+       schooners under full sail, and a hundred other fantastic
+       forms and devices. The children were in ecstasies at the
+       sight of them.</p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_5_5"
+           id="Footnote_5_5"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a>
+           I should explain that the names of places in these
+           Straits frequently occur in duplicate, and even
+           triplicate, which is rather confusing.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>As we gradually opened out our anchorage&mdash;Puerto
+    Bueno&mdash;we found a steamer already lying there, which
+    proved to be the 'Dacia,' telegraph ship, just in from the
+    Pacific coast. Having dropped our anchor at about 5 p.m., we
+    all went on shore, armed as before, some of the gentlemen
+    hoping to find a stray duck or two, at a fresh-water
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 142<a name="Page_142"
+       id="Page_142"></a></span> lake, a little way inland. We met
+       several of the officers of the 'Dacia,' who, being the first
+       comers, did the honours of the place, and told us all they
+       knew about it. The vegetation was as luxuriant and beautiful
+       as usual&mdash;in fact, rather more so; for we are now
+       advancing northwards at the rate of about a hundred miles a
+       day. There were no ducks in the lake, but we enjoyed the
+       scramble alongside it, to the point where it falls over some
+       rocks into the sea. The gig was drawn under this waterfall,
+       and having been loaded to her thwarts, with about three tons
+       and a half of excellent water, she was then towed off to the
+       yacht, where the water was emptied into our tanks, which
+       were thus filled to the brim. A small iceberg, also towed
+       alongside, afforded us a supply of ice; and we were thus
+       cheaply provided with a portion of the requisite supplies
+       for our voyage. The 'Dacia' had an iceberg half as big as
+       herself lying alongside her, and all hands were at work
+       until late at night, aided by the light of lanterns and
+       torches, chopping the ice up and stowing it away.</p>
+
+    <p>Our boat being thus engaged, we were obliged to wait on
+    shore until long past dark; but as we were a large and strong
+    party, it did not much matter. Our men amused themselves by
+    collecting a number of large and excellent mussels, some of
+    which, distinguishable by the peculiar appearance of their
+    shells, arising from a diseased condition of the fish,
+    contained from ten to thirty very small seed pearls. The
+    captain of the 'Dacia' came to dinner, and the officers in the
+    evening; and they gave us much valuable information about the
+    anchorages further up the Straits, and many other things. The
+    captain kindly gave Tom all his Chilian charts of the Darien
+    Channel, which has not yet been fully surveyed by the English
+    Government, though the 'Nassau' passed through in 1869.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, October 11th</i>.&mdash;I never in my life saw
+    anything so beautiful as the view when I came on deck this
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 143<a name="Page_143"
+       id="Page_143"></a></span>morning, at a quarter to five. The
+       moon was shining, large and golden, high in the heavens; the
+       rosy streaks of dawn were just tinging the virgin snow on
+       the highest peaks with faint but ever-deepening colour;
+       whilst all around, the foliage, rocks, and icebergs were
+       still wrapped in the deepest shade. As the sun rose, the
+       pink summits of the mountains changed to gold and yellow,
+       and then to dazzling white, as the light crept down into the
+       valleys, illuminating all the dark places, and bringing out
+       the shades of olive-greens, greys, and purples, in the most
+       wonderful contrasts and combinations of colour. The grandeur
+       of the scene increased with every revolution of the screw,
+       and when fairly in the Guia narrows we were able to stop and
+       admire it a little more at our leisure, Mr. Bingham making
+       some sketches, while I took some photographs. To describe
+       the prospect in detail is quite impossible. Imagine the
+       grandest Alpine scene you ever saw, with tall snowy peaks
+       and pinnacles rising from huge domed tops, and vast fields
+       of unbroken snow; glaciers, running down <i>into</i> the
+       sea, at the heads of the various bays; each bank and
+       promontory richly clothed with vegetation of every shade of
+       green; bold rocks and noble cliffs, covered with many-hued
+       lichens; the floating icebergs; the narrow channel itself,
+       blue as the sky above, dotted with small islands, each a
+       mass of verdure, and reflecting on its glassy surface every
+       object with such distinctness that it was difficult to say
+       where the reality ended and the image began. I have seen a
+       photograph of the Mirror Lake, in California, which, as far
+       as I know, is the only thing that could possibly give one an
+       idea of the marvellous effect of these reflections. Unfit
+       Bay, on Chatham Island, looking towards the mountains near
+       Pill Channel, and Ladder Hill, which looks as if a flight of
+       steps had been cut upon its face, were perhaps two of the
+       most striking points amid all this loveliness.</p>
+
+    <p>All too soon came the inevitable order to steam ahead; and
+    once more resuming our course, we passed through
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 144<a name="Page_144"
+       id="Page_144"></a></span>Innocents and Conception Channels,
+       and entered Wide Channel, which is frequently blocked up
+       with ice at this time of year, though to-day we only met
+       with a few icebergs on their way down from Eyre Sound.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_159"
+             id="Illus_159"></a> <img src="images/t_159.jpg"
+             width="232"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Unfit Bay"
+             title="Illustration: Unfit Bay" /><br />
+        <b>Unfit Bay</b><br />
+        <a href="images/159.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>I have already referred to the extraordinary shapes assumed
+    by some of the mountain peaks. That appropriately called
+    Singular Peak&mdash;on Chatham Island&mdash;and Two-peak
+    Mountain and Cathedral Mountain&mdash;both on Wellington
+    Island&mdash;specially attracted our attention to-day. The
+    first-named presents a wonderful appearance, from whichever
+    side you view it; the second reminds one of the beautiful
+    double spires at Tours; while the last resembles the tapering
+    spire of a cathedral, rising from a long roof, covered with
+    delicate towers, fret-work, and angles. In
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 145<a name="Page_145"
+       id="Page_145"></a></span>Wide Channel we felt really
+       compelled to stop again to admire some of the unnamed
+       mountains. One we christened Spire Mountain, to distinguish
+       it from the rest; it consisted of a single needle-like
+       point, piercing deep into the blue vault of heaven, and
+       surrounded by a cluster of less lofty but equally sharp
+       pinnacles. This group rose from a vast chain of exquisitely
+       tinted snow-peaks, that looked almost as if they rested on
+       the vast glacier beneath, seamed with dark blue and green
+       crevasses and fissures.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_160"
+             id="Illus_160"></a> <img src="images/t_160.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="196"
+             alt="Illustration: Two-peaked Mountain"
+             title="Illustration: Two-peaked Mountain" /><br />
+        <b>Two-peaked Mountain</b><br />
+        <a href="images/160.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>All this time the weather continued perfect. Not a cloud was
+    to be seen, the sun was hot and bright, and the sky was blue
+    enough to rival that of classic Italy. If we could but be sure
+    that this delightful state of things would continue, how
+    pleasant it would be, to stop and explore some of these places.
+    We have, however, been so frequently warned of the possibility
+    of detention for days and even <span class="pagenum">Page
+    146<a name="Page_146"
+       id="Page_146"></a></span>weeks at anchor, owing to bad
+       weather, that we are hurrying on as fast as we can,
+       expecting that every day will bring the much-dreaded deluge,
+       gale, or fog. In thick weather it is simply impossible to
+       proceed; and if it comes on suddenly, as it generally does,
+       and finds you far from an anchorage, there is nothing to be
+       done but to heave-to and wait till it clears, sending a
+       party ashore if possible to light a fire, to serve as a
+       landmark, and so enable you to maintain your position. How
+       thankful I am that we have been hitherto able to make the
+       passage under such favourable circumstances! It has been a
+       vision of beauty and variety, the recollection of which can
+       never be effaced.</p>
+
+    <p>Europe Inlet, on our right, going up Wide Channel, was full
+    of ice. Husband's Inlet looked as if it was frozen over at the
+    farther end, and Penguin Inlet seemed quite choked up with huge
+    hummocks and blocks of ice. Tom therefore decided not to
+    attempt the passage of Icy Reach, for fear of being stopped,
+    but to go round Saumarez Island to Port Grappler by way of
+    Chasm Reach, rather a longer route. It was a happy decision;
+    for nothing could exceed the weird impressive splendour of this
+    portion of the Straits. We were passing through a deep gloomy
+    mountain gorge, with high perpendicular cliffs on either side.
+    Below, all was wrapped in the deepest shade. Far above, the sun
+    gilded the snowy peaks and many-tinted foliage with his
+    departing light, that slowly turned to rose-colour ere the
+    shades of evening crept over all, and the stars began to peep
+    out, one by one. We could trace from the summit to the base of
+    a lofty mountain the course of a stupendous avalanche, which
+    had recently rushed down into the sea, crushing and destroying
+    everything in its way, and leaving a broad track of desolation
+    behind it. It must for a time have completely filled up the
+    narrow channel; and woe to any unfortunate vessel that might
+    happen to be there at such a moment!</p>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 147<a name="Page_147"
+       id="Page_147"></a></span>Port Grappler is rather a difficult
+       place to make in the dark; but Tom managed it with much
+       dexterity, and by eight o'clock we were safely anchored for
+       the night. We all wanted Tom to stay here to-morrow to get
+       some rest, which he much needs, but he has determined to
+       start at five o'clock in the morning as usual, for fear of
+       being caught by bad weather. Even I, who have of course had
+       no anxiety as to the navigation, felt so fatigued from
+       having been on the bridge the whole day since very early
+       this morning, that I went straight to bed before dinner, in
+       order to be ready for to-morrow.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_162"
+             id="Illus_162"></a> <img src="images/t_162.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="144"
+             alt="Illustration: Indian Reach"
+             title="Illustration: Indian Reach" /><br />
+        <b>Indian Reach</b><br />
+        <a href="images/162.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, October 12th</i>.&mdash;A day as perfect as
+    yesterday succeeded a clear cold night. We weighed anchor at
+    5.15 a.m., and, retracing our course for a few miles, passed
+    round the end of Saumarez Island, and entered the narrow
+    channel leading to Indian Reach. The greatest care is here
+    necessary, to avoid several sunken rocks, which have already
+    proved fatal to many ships, a large German steamer having been
+    wrecked as recently as last year. The smooth but treacherous
+    surface of the channel reflected sharply the cliffs and
+    foliage, and its mirror-like stillness was only
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 148<a name="Page_148"
+       id="Page_148"></a></span>broken at rare intervals, by the
+       sudden appearance of a seal in search of a fresh supply of
+       air, or by the efforts, delayed until the very last moment,
+       of a few steamer-ducks, gannets, or cormorants, to get out
+       of our way.</p>
+
+    <p>Having accomplished the passage of Indian Reach in safety,
+    we were just passing Eden Harbour, when the cry of 'Canoe
+    ahead!' was raised. A boat was seen paddling out towards us
+    from behind Moreton Island, containing about half-a-dozen
+    people, apparently armed with bows and arrows and spears, and
+    provided with fishing-rods, which projected on either side. One
+    man was standing up and waving, in a very excited manner,
+    something which turned out ultimately to be a piece of
+    cotton-waste. Our engines having been stopped, the canoe came
+    alongside, and we beheld six wild-looking half-naked
+    creatures&mdash;two men, three women, and a very small boy, who
+    was crouching over a fire at the bottom of the boat. There were
+    also four sharp, cheery-looking little dogs, rather like
+    Esquimaux dogs, only smaller, with prick ears and curly tails,
+    who were looking over the side and barking vigorously in
+    response to the salutations of our pugs. One man had on a
+    square robe of sea-otter skins, thrown over his shoulders, and
+    laced together in front, two of the women wore sheepskins, and
+    the rest of the party were absolutely naked. Their black hair
+    was long and shaggy, and they all clamoured loudly in harsh
+    guttural tones, accompanied by violent gesticulations, for
+    'tab&aacute;co' and 'gall&eacute;ta.' We got some ready for
+    them, and also some beads, knives, and looking-glasses, but
+    through some mistake they did not manage to get hold of our
+    rope in time, and as our way carried us ahead they were left
+    behind. The passage was narrow, and the current strong, and Tom
+    was anxious to save the tide in the dangerous English Narrows.
+    We could not, therefore, give them another chance of
+    communicating with us, and accordingly we went on our way,
+    followed by what were, I have no doubt, the curses&mdash;not
+    only deep, but <span class="pagenum">Page 149<a name="Page_149"
+       id="Page_149"></a></span>loud&mdash;of the whole party, who
+       indulged at the same time in the most furious and
+       threatening gestures. I was quite sorry for their
+       disappointment at losing their hoped-for luxuries, to say
+       nothing of our own at missing the opportunity of bargaining
+       for some more furs and curiosities.</p>
+
+    <p>Shortly afterwards there were seen from the masthead crowds
+    of natives among the trees armed with long spears, bows, and
+    arrows, busily engaged pushing off their canoes from their
+    hiding-places in creeks and hollows; so perhaps it was just as
+    well we did not stop, or we might have been surrounded. Not far
+    from here are the English Narrows, a passage which is a
+    ticklish but interesting piece of navigation. A strong current
+    prevails, and, to avoid a shoal, it is necessary at one point
+    to steer so close to the western shore that the bowsprit almost
+    projects over the land, the branches of the trees almost sweep
+    the rigging, and the rocks almost scrape the side of the
+    vessel. Two men were placed at the wheel, as a matter of
+    precaution, and we appeared to be steering straight for the
+    shore, at full speed, till Tom suddenly gave the order 'Hard
+    a-port!' and the 'Sunbeam' instantly flew round and rushed
+    swiftly past the dangerous spot into wider waters. It is just
+    here that Captain Trivett was knocked off the bridge of his
+    vessel by the boughs&mdash;a mishap he warned Tom against
+    before we left England.</p>
+
+    <p>Whilst in the Narrows we looked back, to see everything
+    bright and cheerful, but ahead all was black and dismal: the
+    sky and sun were obscured, the tops of the mountains hidden,
+    and the valleys filled up with thick fog and clouds&mdash;all
+    which seemed to indicate the approach of a storm of rain,
+    although the glass was still very high. We went up South Reach
+    and North Reach, in the Messier Channel, till, just as we were
+    off Liberta Bay, in lat. 48&deg; 50' S., long. 74&deg; 25' W.,
+    the blackest of the black clouds came suddenly down upon us,
+    and descended upon the deck in a tremendous shower&mdash;not of
+    rain, but of <i>dust</i> and <i>ashes</i>. Windows, hatches,
+    and doors were shut as soon as we discovered
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 150<a name="Page_150"
+       id="Page_150"></a></span>the nature of this strange
+       visitation, and in about half an hour we were through the
+       worst of it: whereupon dustpans, brooms, and dusters came
+       into great requisition. It took us completely by surprise,
+       for we had no reason to expect anything of the sort.
+       Assuming the dust to be of volcanic origin, it must have
+       travelled an immense distance; the nearest volcano, as far
+       as we know, being that of Corcovado, in the island of
+       Chiloe, nearly 300 miles off. We had heard from Sir Woodbine
+       Parish, and others at Buenos Ayres, of the terrible blinding
+       dust-storms which occur <i>there</i>, causing utter darkness
+       for a space of ten or fifteen minutes; but Buenos Ayres is
+       on the edge of a river, with hundreds and thousands of
+       leagues of sandy plains behind it, the soil of which is only
+       kept together by the roots of the wiry pampas grass. For
+       this dust to reach the Messier Channel, where we now are, it
+       would have to surmount two chains of snowy mountains, six or
+       seven thousand feet in height, and in many places hundreds
+       of miles in width, and traverse a vast extent of country
+       besides.</p>
+
+    <p>The weather was still so fine, and the barometer so
+    high&mdash;30.52 inches&mdash;that Tom determined to go to sea
+    to-day, instead of stopping at Hale Cove for the night, as we
+    had originally intended. Directly we got through the English
+    Narrows, therefore, all hands were busily engaged in once more
+    sending up the square-yards, top-masts, &amp;c., and in making
+    ready for sea. Just before sunset, as we were quitting the
+    narrow channels, the sun pierced through the clouds and
+    lightened up the lonely landscape as well as the broad waters
+    of the Pacific Ocean. Its surface was scarcely rippled by the
+    gentle breeze that wafted us on our course; the light of the
+    setting sun rested, in soft and varied tints, on the
+    fast-fading mountains and peaks; and thus, under the most
+    favourable and encouraging circumstances, we have fairly
+    entered upon a new and important section of our long voyage.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 151<a name="Page_151"
+       id="Page_151"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>Although perhaps I ought not to say so, I cannot help
+    admiring the manner in which Tom has piloted his yacht through
+    the Straits, for it would do credit, not only to any amateur,
+    but to a professional seaman. He has never hesitated or been at
+    a loss for a moment, however intricate the part or complicated
+    the directions; but having thoroughly studied and mastered the
+    subject beforehand, he has been able to go steadily on at full
+    speed the whole way. It has, however, been very fatiguing work
+    for him, as he hardly ever left the bridge whilst we were under
+    way.</p>
+
+    <p>We steamed the whole distance from Cape Virgins to the Gulf
+    of Pe&ntilde;as, 659 knots, in 76 hours, anchoring six times.
+    This gives seven days' steaming, of an average length of eleven
+    hours each; and as we stopped two or three hours, at different
+    times, for Fuegians, photographs, and sketches, our average
+    speed was nine and a half knots, though sometimes, when going
+    with strong currents, it was twelve or fourteen, and, when
+    going against them, barely six knots.</p>
+
+    <p>Just at dark, we passed between Wager Island and Cheape
+    Channel, where H.M.S. 'Wager,' commanded by Captain Cheape, was
+    wrecked, and we spent the night in the Gulf of Pe&ntilde;as,
+    almost becalmed.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, October 13th</i>.&mdash;We ceased steaming at
+    7.30 a.m., and made every effort throughout the rest of the
+    day, by endless changes of sail, to catch each fleeting breath
+    of wind. We did not, however, make much progress, owing to the
+    extreme lightness of the breeze.</p>
+
+    <p>Sorry as we are to lose the scenery of the Straits, it is
+    pleasant to find the weather getting gradually warmer, day by
+    day, and to be able to regard the morning bath once more as a
+    luxury instead of a terror. The change is also thoroughly
+    appreciated by the various animals we have on board, especially
+    the monkeys and parrots, who may now be seen sunning themselves
+    in every warm <span class="pagenum">Page 152<a name="Page_152"
+       id="Page_152"></a></span>corner of the deck. In the Straits,
+       though the sun was hot, there was always an icy feeling in
+       the wind, owing to the presence of enormous masses of snow
+       and ice on every side.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, October 14th</i>.&mdash;Light winds and calms
+    prevailed the whole day. About 2 p.m. we were off the island of
+    Socorro. In the afternoon a large shoal of whales came round
+    the yacht. I was below when they first made their appearance,
+    and when I came on deck they were spouting up great jets of
+    water in all directions, suggestive of the fountains at the
+    Crystal Palace. We were lying so still that they did not seem
+    to be in the least afraid of us, and came quite close, swimming
+    alongside, round us, across our bows, and even diving down
+    under our keel. There was a shoal of small fish about, and the
+    whales, most of which were about fifty or sixty feet in length,
+    constantly opened their huge pink whalebone-fringed mouths so
+    wide that we could see right down their capacious throats. The
+    children were especially delighted with this performance, and
+    baby has learned quite a new trick. When asked, 'What do the
+    whales do?' she opens her mouth as wide as she can, stretches
+    out her arms to their fullest extent, then blows, and finishes
+    up with a look round for applause.</p>
+
+    <p>Soon after 8 p.m. the wind completely died away, and,
+    fearing further detention, we once more got up steam.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, October 15th</i>.&mdash;Still calm. We had the
+    litany and hymns at 11 a.m.; prayers and hymns and a sermon at
+    5 p.m. In the course of the afternoon we were again surrounded
+    by a shoal of whales. We passed the island of Chiloe to-day,
+    where it always rains, and where the vegetation is
+    proportionately dense and luxuriant. It is inhabited by a tribe
+    of peculiarly gentle Indians, who till the ground, and who are
+    said to be kind to strangers thrown amongst them. Darwin and
+    Byron speak well of the island and its inhabitants, who are
+    probably more civilised since their <span class="pagenum">Page
+    153<a name="Page_153"
+       id="Page_153"></a></span>time, for a steamer now runs
+       regularly once a week from Valparaiso to San Carlos and back
+       for garden produce. The potato is indigenous to the
+       island.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_168"
+             id="Illus_168"></a> <img src="images/t_168.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="156"
+             alt="Illustration: Catching Cape Pigeons in the Gulf of Pe&ntilde;as"
+             title="Illustration: Catching Cape Pigeons in the Gulf of Pe&ntilde;as" />
+        <br />
+        <b>Catching Cape Pigeons in the Gulf of
+        Pe&ntilde;as</b><br />
+        <a href="images/168.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, October 17th</i>.&mdash;At 6 a.m., there being
+    still no wind, Tom, in despair of ever reaching our destination
+    under sail alone, again ordered steam to be raised. Two hours
+    later a nice sailing breeze sprang up; but we had been so often
+    disappointed that we determined to continue steaming. Just
+    before sunset we saw the island of Mocha in the distance. It is
+    said to have been inhabited at one time by herds of wild horses
+    and hogs, but I think they have now become extinct.</p>
+
+    <p>One of our principal amusements during the calm weather has
+    been to fish for cape-pigeons, cape-hens, gulls, and
+    albatrosses, with a hook and line. We have caught a good many
+    in this way, and several entangled themselves in the threads
+    left floating for the purpose over the stern. The cape-pigeons
+    were so tame that they came almost on board, and numbers of
+    them were caught in butterfly-nets. Their plumage is not unlike
+    grebe, and I mean to have <span class="pagenum">Page
+    154<a name="Page_154"
+       id="Page_154"></a></span>some muffs and trimmings for the
+       children made out of it. Allen, the coxswain of the gig,
+       skins them very well, having had some lessons from Ward
+       before we left England. I want very much to catch an
+       albatross, in order to have it skinned, and to make
+       tobacco-pouches of its feet and pipe-stems of the
+       wing-bones, for presents.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 155<a name="Page_155"
+       id="Page_155"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_X"
+       id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">CHILI.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>Sunbeam of summer, oh what is like
+            thee</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Hope of the wilderness,
+            joy of the sea</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, October 18th</i>.&mdash;At 3.30 a.m. we were
+    close to the land lying south of the Bay of Lota; at 4 a.m. the
+    engines were stopped on account of the mist; and at 6 a.m. we
+    began to go slowly ahead again, though it was still not very
+    easy to make out the distance and bearing of the coast. The
+    passage into the bay, between the island of Santa Maria and
+    Lavapi&eacute; Point, is narrow and difficult, and abounds with
+    sunken rocks and other hidden dangers, not yet fully surveyed.
+    Tom said it was the most arduous piece of navigation he ever
+    undertook on a misty morning; but happily he accomplished it
+    successfully. Just as he entered the sun broke through the
+    mist, displaying a beautiful bay, surrounded on three sides by
+    well-wooded hills, and sheltered from all winds except the
+    north. One corner is completely occupied by the huge
+    establishment belonging to Madame Cousi&ntilde;o, consisting of
+    coal-mines, enormous smelting-works, and extensive potteries.
+    The hill just at the back is completely bare of vegetation,
+    which has all been poisoned by the sulphurous vapours from the
+    furnaces. This spot, from its contiguity to the works, has been
+    selected as the site of a village for the accommodation of the
+    numerous labourers and their families. It is therefore to be
+    hoped that sulphur fumes are not as injurious to animal as they
+    evidently are to vegetable life. As we drew nearer
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 156<a name="Page_156"
+       id="Page_156"></a></span>to the shore we could distinguish
+       Madame Cousi&ntilde;o's house, in the midst of a park on the
+       summit of a hill, and surrounded on all sides by beautiful
+       gardens. Every prominent point had a little summer-house
+       perched upon it, and some of the trees had circular seats
+       built round their trunks half-way up, approached by spiral
+       staircases, and thatched like wigwams. The general aspect of
+       the coast, which is a combination of rich red earth, granite
+       cliffs, and trees to the water's edge, is very like that of
+       Cornwall and Devonshire.</p>
+
+    <p>We had scarcely dropped our anchor before the captain of the
+    port came on board, and told us we were too far from the shore
+    to coal, which was our special object in coming here; so up
+    went the anchor again, and we steamed a few hundred yards
+    further in, and then let go close to the shore, in deep water.
+    Captain M&ouml;ller waited to go ashore with us, introduced our
+    steward to the butcher and postmaster of the place, and then
+    accompanied us to Madame Cousi&ntilde;o's gardens.</p>
+
+    <p>It was a steep climb up the hill, but we were well rewarded
+    for our labour. Tended by over a hundred men, whose efforts are
+    directed by highly paid and thoroughly experienced Scotch
+    gardeners, these grounds contain a collection of plants from
+    all the four quarters of the globe, and from New Zealand,
+    Polynesia, and Australia. Amid them were scattered all kinds of
+    fantastic grottoes, fountains, statues, and ferneries; flights
+    of steps, leading downwards to the beach, and upwards to sylvan
+    nooks; arcades, arched over with bamboos, and containing
+    trellis-work from Derbyshire, and Minton tiles from
+    Staffordshire; seats of all sorts and shapes, <i>under</i>
+    trees, <i>in</i> trees, and <i>over</i> trees; besides
+    summer-houses and pagodas, at every corner where there was a
+    pretty view over land or sea.</p>
+
+    <p>One of the heads of the establishment, a great friend of
+    Madame Cousi&ntilde;o's, was unfortunately very ill, and as she
+    was nursing him, she could not come out to see us; but she
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 157<a name="Page_157"
+       id="Page_157"></a></span>kindly gave orders to her gardener
+       to send some cut flowers and some ferns on board the yacht,
+       to decorate the saloon; and as she was unable to invite us
+       to luncheon at the big house, she sent some champagne and
+       refreshments down to the Casa de la Administracion, where we
+       were most hospitably entertained. She has had the latter
+       place comfortably fitted up for the use of the principal
+       employ&eacute;s on the works, and has provided it with a
+       billiard-table, a very fair library, and several spare
+       bed-rooms for the accommodation of visitors.</p>
+
+    <p>After luncheon we went to see the copper-smelting works,
+    which were very interesting. The manager walked through with
+    us, and explained the processes very clearly. He could tell at
+    once, on taking up a piece of rough ore, fresh from the mine,
+    what percentage of copper or iron it contained, the amount
+    varying from ten to seventy-five per cent, of the gross weight.
+    The furnaces are kept burning night and day, and are worked by
+    three gangs of men; and the quantity of copper produced
+    annually is enormous. In fact, three parts of the copper used
+    in Europe comes from here. The ore is brought from various
+    parts of Chili and Peru, generally in Madame Cousi&ntilde;o's
+    ships; and coal is found in such abundance, and so near the
+    surface, that the operation of smelting is a profitable one.
+    Our afternoon, spent amid smoke, and heat, and dirt, and
+    half-naked workmen, manipulating with dexterous skill the
+    glowing streams of molten ore, was a great contrast to our
+    morning ramble.</p>
+
+    <p>Having seen the works, and received a curious and
+    interesting collection of copper ore, as a remembrance of our
+    visit, we started in a little car, lined with crimson cloth,
+    and drawn by a locomotive, to visit the various coal-mines.
+    First we went through the park, and then along a valley near
+    the sea, full of wild flowers and ferns, and trees festooned
+    with 'copigue,' the Chilian name for a creeper which is a
+    speciality of this country, and which imparts a character of
+    its own to the landscape during the month of
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 158<a name="Page_158"
+       id="Page_158"></a></span>May, when its wreaths of scarlet,
+       cherry, or pink flowers are in full bloom. We went to the
+       mouths of three coal-pits, and looked down into their grimy
+       depths, but did not descend, as it would have occupied too
+       much time. They are mostly about 1,000 yards in depth, and
+       extend for some distance under the sea.</p>
+
+    <p>We next visited a point of land whence we could see an
+    island which closely resembles St. Michael's Mount. It is quite
+    uninhabited, except by a few wild goats and rabbits. The
+    sea-shore is lined with trees to the water's edge, and there
+    are many bold rocks and fine white sandy caves in different
+    parts of it. Some boats were drawn up high and dry on the
+    beach, along which several picturesque-looking groups of
+    shell-fish collectors were scattered. The mussels that are
+    found here are enormous&mdash;from five to eight inches in
+    length&mdash;and they, together with cockles and limpets, form
+    a staple article of food.</p>
+
+    <p>A steam-launch had been sent to meet us, but it could not
+    get near enough to the shore for us to embark. A rickety, leaky
+    small boat, half full of water, was therefore, after some
+    delay, procured, and in this we were sculled out, two by two,
+    till the whole party were safely on board. Outside there was
+    quite a swell, and a north wind and rain are prophesied for
+    to-morrow. Mr. Mackay returned with us to the yacht, and stayed
+    to dinner. Before he left, the prognostications of bad weather
+    were to some extent justified; for the wind changed, and rain,
+    the first we have felt for some time, began to fall.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, October 19th</i>.&mdash;We have been persuaded
+    by our friends here to try and see a little more of the
+    interior of Chili than we should do if we were to carry out our
+    original intention of going on to Valparaiso in the yacht, and
+    then merely making an excursion to Santiago from that place. We
+    have therefore arranged to proceed at once overland to
+    Santiago, by a route which will enable us to see something of
+    the Cordillera of the Andes, to have a
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 159<a name="Page_159"
+       id="Page_159"></a></span> peep at the Araucanian Indians on
+       the frontier, and to visit the baths of Cauquenes. Tom,
+       however, does not like to leave the yacht, and has decided
+       to take her up to Valparaiso, and then come on to Santiago
+       and meet us, in about five or six days' time. The anchor was
+       accordingly hove short, and the mizen hoisted, when we
+       landed this morning, in a drenching rain.</p>
+
+    <p>A coach runs daily from Lota to Concepcion, the first stage
+    of our journey, but a special vehicle was engaged for our
+    accommodation, and a curious affair it was to look at. It
+    seemed to be simply a huge wooden box, suspended, by means of
+    thick leather straps, from C springs, without windows or doors,
+    but provided with two long, narrow openings, through which you
+    squeezed yourself in or out, and which could be closed at
+    pleasure by roll-up leather blinds. Inside, it was roomy,
+    well-padded, and comfortable.</p>
+
+    <p>The rain had made the road terribly greasy, and several
+    times the carriage slewed half-way round and slid four or five
+    feet sideways down the hill, causing us to hold on, in
+    expectation of a spill. At last we reached the bottom in
+    safety, and, crossing a small river, emerged upon the sea-shore
+    at Playa Negra, or Black Beach, along which we drove for some
+    distance through the deep, loose sand, the horses being up to
+    their fetlocks in water most of the time. Then we forded
+    another little river, and, leaving the beach, proceeded up a
+    steep road, not more than three yards wide, with a ditch on one
+    side and a steep precipice on the other, to the little village
+    of Coronel, overlooking the bay of the same name. While the
+    horses were being changed, we walked down to the little wooden
+    pier, on the sea-shore, and saw the 'Sunbeam' just coming out
+    of Lota Bay.</p>
+
+    <p>Drawn up by the side of the pier was a picturesque-looking
+    market-boat, full of many sorts of vegetables, and little piles
+    of sea-eggs, with their spines removed, and neatly tied up with
+    rushes in parcels of three. The people seemed to enjoy them
+    raw, in which state they are considered
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 160<a name="Page_160"
+       id="Page_160"></a></span>to be most nutritious; and when
+       roasted in their shells, or made into omelettes, they are a
+       favourite article of food with all classes. Coronel is a
+       great coaling station, and the bay, which is surrounded by
+       tall chimneys, shafts, and piers, connected with the mines,
+       was full of steamers and colliers.</p>
+
+    <p>Our road now ran for some time through undulating
+    pasture-land, in which were many large trees, the scene
+    resembling a vast park. Masses of scarlet verbena, yellow
+    calceolaria, and white heath, grew on all sides, while the
+    numerous myrtle, mimosa, and other bushes, were entwined with
+    orange-coloured nasturtiums, and a little scarlet
+    trop&aelig;olum, with a blue edge, whose name I forget. Beneath
+    the trees the ground was thickly carpeted with adiantum fern.
+    The road over which we travelled was of the worst description,
+    and our luncheon was eaten with no small difficulty, but with a
+    considerable amount of merriment. Once, when we jolted into an
+    unusually big hole, the whole of our provisions, basket and
+    all, made a sudden plunge towards one side of the coach, and
+    very nearly escaped us altogether.</p>
+
+    <p>Half-way between Coronel and Concepcion, we met the return
+    stage-coach, crowded with passengers, and looking as if it had
+    just come out of the South Kensington Museum or Madame
+    Tussaud's, or like the pictures of a coach of Queen Elizabeth's
+    time. It was a long low vehicle, with unglazed windows all
+    round it, painted bright scarlet decorated with brilliant
+    devices on every panel, and suspended, like our own, by means
+    of innumerable leather straps, from huge C springs. The seats
+    on either side held three passengers, and there was a stool in
+    the middle, like the one in the Lord Mayor's coach, on which
+    four people sat, back to bask.</p>
+
+    <p>Soon after we drew up to rest the horses at a little posada,
+    kept by two Germans, called 'Half-way House,' and seven miles
+    more brought us to a rich and well-cultivated
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 161<a name="Page_161"
+       id="Page_161"></a></span>farm belonging to Mr. Hermann,
+       where we stopped to change horses.</p>
+
+    <p>It was six o'clock in the evening when we reached the
+    Bio-Bio, a wide shallow river, at the entrance of the town of
+    Concepcion; it had to be crossed in a ferry-boat, carriage and
+    all, and as it was after hours, we had some difficulty in
+    finding any one to take us over. At last, in consideration of a
+    little extra pay, six men consented to undertake the job, and
+    having set a square-sail, to keep us from being carried down
+    the river by the current, they punted us over with long poles.
+    Sometimes there was nine feet of water beneath us, but oftener
+    not more than four or five. The boat could not get close to the
+    opposite shore, and it was a great business to get the carriage
+    out and the horses harnessed, in some eighteen inches of water.
+    First the carriage stuck in the sand, and then the horses
+    refused to move, but after a great deal of splashing, and an
+    immense display of energy in the way of pulling, jerking,
+    shrieking, shouting&mdash;and, I am afraid, swearing&mdash;we
+    reached the bank, emerged from the water, struggled through
+    some boggy ground, and were taken at full gallop through the
+    streets of the town, until we reached the Hotel Comercio, where
+    we found comfortable rooms and a nice little dinner awaiting
+    us.</p>
+
+    <p>This was all very well, as far as it went, but when we came
+    to inquire about our onward route we were disappointed to learn
+    that the line to Angol was closed, owing to the breaking down
+    of a bridge, and would remain so until next month, and that,
+    with the exception of a contractor's train, which runs only
+    once a week, there was nothing by which we could travel.
+    'To-morrow is Friday,' added Monsieur Letellier, 'and that is
+    so near Monday, what can Madame do better than wait here till
+    then?' By way of consolation, he informed us that there were no
+    Indians now at Angol, as the Araucanian <a name="FNanchor_6_6"
+       id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6"
+       class="fnanchor">[6]</a> Indians <span class="pagenum">Page
+       162<a name="Page_162"
+       id="Page_162"></a></span> had recently all been driven
+       further back from the frontier by the Chilenos, but that, if
+       we were still bent on trying to get there, we could go by
+       boat as far as Nacimiento, where we might, with some
+       difficulty, procure a carriage. The river just now, however,
+       is so low, that the boat frequently gets aground, and
+       remains for two or three days; therefore, taking everything
+       into consideration, we have decided to abandon this part of
+       our programme, for otherwise we shall not reach Santiago in
+       time. In any case, the journey will be a much longer one
+       than we expected.</p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_6_6"
+           id="Footnote_6_6"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a>
+           I have lately received a letter from a friend in Paris,
+           who says: 'Strange to tell, it is only a few days ago
+           that poor Or&eacute;lie Antoine I., ex-King of
+           Araucania, died at Bordeaux, in a hospital. He reigned
+           for some years, and then made war upon Chili, which gave
+           him a warm reception; even captured his Majesty and sent
+           him back to his native land. I met him here a few years
+           ago, surrounded by a small court, which treated him with
+           great deference. I found him a dignified, intelligent
+           sovereign. He attempted to return to his kingdom, but
+           was captured on the high seas by a Brazilian cruiser,
+           and sent back to France to die a miserable death.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, October 20th</i>.&mdash;We went out for a short
+    stroll round the Plaza before breakfast, which meal was
+    scarcely over when Mr. Mackay arrived in a carriage, and took
+    us off to see what there was to see in the town. The Plaza was
+    full of bright-looking flower-beds, in which were superb roses,
+    and many English flowers, shaded by oranges, pomegranates, and
+    deutzias. Each plot belongs to one of the principal families in
+    the town, and great emulation is displayed as to whose little
+    garden shall be in the best order and contain the finest
+    collection of plants and flowers.</p>
+
+    <p>Concepcion has suffered, and still suffers, much from
+    earthquakes. The existing town is only thirty-five years old.
+    The houses are all one story high only, and the streets, or
+    rather roads, between them are wide, in order to afford the
+    inhabitants a chance of escape, should their dwellings be
+    thrown down by a sudden shock. In summer everybody rushes out
+    into the street, no matter what hour of the day or night it may
+    be, as soon as the first symptoms of an earthquake are felt;
+    but during the winter, when <span class="pagenum">Page
+    163<a name="Page_163"
+       id="Page_163"></a></span>the shocks are never so severe, the
+       alarm caused is not so great. The old town was about two
+       miles distant from the present site, near a place now called
+       Penco, but after being demolished in the ordinary way, an
+       immense wave rolled up and completely destroyed all traces
+       of its existence.</p>
+
+    <p>We drove out to Puchacai, Mr. Mackay's hacienda, a pretty
+    little thatched cottage, surrounded by a verandah, in the midst
+    of a garden, where laburnums and lilacs bloom side by side with
+    orange-trees and pomegranates. Round the garden are groves of
+    shady English oaks (the first we have seen since leaving home)
+    and Norfolk Island pines, the effect of the whole scene being
+    strangely suggestive of the idea that a charming little bit of
+    English rural scenery has in some mysterious manner been
+    transported to this out-of-the-way spot in Chili. The interior
+    of the house, which is simply but tastefully furnished, and at
+    the time of our visit was full of fresh flowers, arranged with
+    an artistic eye to colour, bears the same indescribable
+    <i>homelike</i> air. We were kindly received and regaled with
+    luncheon, including, amongst other good things, fried
+    <i>pejerey</i> (king of fish), deservedly so called.</p>
+
+    <p>In the afternoon we strolled about the garden, and looked at
+    the farm and stable, and were shown the probable winner of one
+    of the prizes at the forthcoming race-meeting. In the cottages
+    on the estate some specimens of <i>mi&ntilde;aque</i> lace were
+    offered to us&mdash;a lace made by most of the peasants in this
+    part of the country. It varies considerably in quality, from
+    the coarse kind, used for covering furniture, to the finest
+    description, used for personal adornment It is very cheap,
+    wears for ever, and strongly resembles the <i>torchon</i> lace,
+    now so fashionable in Paris and London for trimming petticoats
+    and children's frocks. The women also spin, dye, and weave the
+    wool from the fleece of their own sheep into the
+    bright-coloured ponchos universally worn, winter and summer, by
+    the men in this country. These ponchos are not made of nearly
+    such good <span class="pagenum">Page 164<a name="Page_164"
+       id="Page_164"></a></span>material as those used in the
+       Argentine Republic, but they are considerably gayer and more
+       picturesque in appearance.</p>
+
+    <p>After dinner, there was nothing to do except to stroll about
+    the town and buy photographs. They are extremely good in
+    Chili&mdash;both views and portraits&mdash;but proportionately
+    dear, the price being double what would be charged in London or
+    Paris for the same thing.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_179"
+             id="Illus_179"></a> <img src="images/t_179.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="194"
+             alt="Illustration: Waiting for the Train, Chili"
+             title="Illustration: Waiting for the Train, Chili" /><br />
+        <b>Waiting for the Train, Chili</b><br />
+        <a href="images/179.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, October 21st</i>.&mdash;Having wished good-bye
+    to Mr. Mackay, and taken our seats in the train for Linares, we
+    were now fairly launched on our own resources in a strange
+    country, I being the only one of the party who could speak even
+    a little Spanish. At San Romde we stopped half an hour to allow
+    the train from Chilian to pass. Most of the passengers took the
+    opportunity of breakfasting, but as we were not hungry we
+    occupied the time in having a chat with the engine-driver, a
+    very intelligent Canadian. He told us that, as it happened, we
+    might have gone to Angol to-day after all, as a special car and
+    engine were going there to take a doctor to see a patient,
+    returning early to-morrow morning.</p>
+
+    <p>The railroad runs alongside the Bio-Bio all the way to San
+    Romde. On either bank are low wooded hills, on
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 165<a name="Page_165"
+       id="Page_165"></a></span>whose sides vines are cultivated in
+       considerable quantities. The wild flowers grow luxuriantly
+       everywhere: calceolarias, especially, in huge bushes of
+       golden bloom, two or three feet high. At San Romde we left
+       the river, and travelled through a pretty and
+       well-cultivated country to Chilian, which derives its name
+       from an Indian word, signifying 'saddle of the sun,' and is
+       so called from the fact that the sun shines upon it through
+       a saddle-shaped pass in the chain of the Andes.</p>
+
+    <p>Like Concepcion, the existing town has been recently built
+    at a distance of about a mile from the remains of the old place
+    of the same name, which was overthrown by an earthquake about
+    thirty years ago. The destruction was, however, not so complete
+    as in the case of Concepcion, and some few of the
+    better-conditioned houses are still inhabited by very poor
+    people, though the walls have great cracks in them from top to
+    bottom, and they are otherwise in a deplorable state. A large
+    cattle and horse market is held at Chilian every Saturday, and
+    it is said that, on these occasions, 100,000 dollars frequently
+    change hands in the course of the morning, in the open
+    market-place. All the business of the day was over by the time
+    we got there, and there was nothing to be seen but a few stray
+    beasts and quaint bullock-carts, and some peasants selling
+    refreshments, <i>mi&ntilde;aque</i> lace, and other trifles. In
+    several of the old-fashioned shops on the Plaza there were
+    curious-looking stirrups, bits, spurs, and other horse-gear,
+    all made of solid silver, roughly worked by the Indians
+    themselves.</p>
+
+    <p>Having had our baths, we returned to the hotel, where we
+    found dinner laid out in my bed-room, which happened to be the
+    largest, for our host did not approve of our dining at the
+    table-d'h&ocirc;te, as we should have preferred to do. He gave
+    us an excellent dinner, with good wine, and attended to us most
+    assiduously himself.</p>
+
+    <p>While the gentlemen were smoking, I went to see a poor
+    engine-driver who had met with a bad accident,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 166<a name="Page_166"
+       id="Page_166"></a></span>and who was lying at this hotel. He
+       is a fine healthy-looking Englishman, and he told me that,
+       until this misfortune, he had never known a day's illness in
+       his life. It seems that, at four o'clock in the afternoon of
+       this day week, he was sent off with a special engine to
+       convey an important message. Something going wrong during
+       the journey, he slackened speed, and, in stepping off the
+       engine to see what was the matter, his foot slipped, and the
+       wheel of the tender went over it. He had no one with him who
+       could manage the engine alone, so he was obliged to get up
+       again, and endeavour to struggle on to Talca; but after
+       going a few miles further, the engine suddenly ran off the
+       track, at a part of the unfinished line that had not yet
+       been sufficiently ballasted. They could not get it on again
+       unaided, and one of the men had to start off and walk many
+       miles before he could procure assistance. Altogether, poor
+       Clarke underwent forty-two hours of intense agony from the
+       time of the accident until he received any medical
+       attention. In spite of this he is now doing well; and though
+       the foot, which is in a bath of carbolic acid and water,
+       looks very bad, he is in great spirits, because the three
+       local doctors, in consultation, have decided that amputation
+       will not be necessary. He spoke in the highest terms of the
+       kindness of our French host and his Spanish wife, the latter
+       of whom, he says, has nursed him like a mother. He certainly
+       has the one large room in the house, and when I saw him his
+       bed was comfortably made and arranged, flowers and fruit
+       were on a table by his side, and everything looked as neat
+       and snug as possible. It was a treat to him to see some one
+       fresh from the old country, and to hear all the news, and
+       our voyage appeared to interest him greatly. While I was
+       with him one of his friends came in, who remembered me quite
+       well, and who knew one or two people with whom we are
+       acquainted, including the manager of Messrs. Bowdler and
+       Chaffers' yard, where the 'Sunbeam' was built.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_182"
+             id="Illus_182"></a> <img src="images/t_182.jpg"
+             width="226"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: A Fellow Passenger"
+             title="Illustration: A Fellow Passenger" /><br />
+        <b>A Fellow Passenger</b><br />
+        <a href="images/182.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 167<a name="Page_167"
+       id="Page_167"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, October 22nd</i>.&mdash;Though it was Sunday, we
+    had no choice but to travel on, or we should not have been able
+    to start until Tuesday. We were therefore up at five o'clock,
+    and at the station before seven. From San Carlos, where we
+    arrived at 8.15 a.m., we started for Linares, which was reached
+    a couple of hours later. It is a much smaller town than
+    Chilian, but is built on exactly the same plan&mdash;Plaza,
+    cathedral, and all. To-day the streets were crowded with men on
+    horseback, who had brought their wives in, seated
+    pillion-fashion on the crupper behind them, to attend mass.</p>
+
+    <p>Our road lay through a rich country, intersected by small
+    rivers; with the distant snowy chain of the Andes as a
+    background, and through thickly planted groves of poplars,
+    growing in long shady avenues, fragrant with perfume from the
+    magnificent roses which blossomed beneath their shade. In the
+    course of our four hours' drive, we crossed a great many
+    streams, in some of which the water was deep enough to come in
+    at the bottom of the carriage, and cause us to tuck ourselves
+    up on the seats; there was always a little pleasing excitement
+    and doubt, as we approached one of these rivulets, as to
+    whether we were to be inundated or not. We met a good many
+    people riding and walking about in their holiday clothes, and
+    at all the cabarets groups of talkers, drinkers, and players
+    were assembled.</p>
+
+    <p>The cottages we have seen by the roadside have been
+    picturesque but wretched-looking edifices, generally composed
+    of the branches of trees stuck in the ground, plastered with
+    mud and thatched with reeds. Two outhouses, or arbours,
+    consisting of a few posts and sticks, fastened together and
+    overgrown with roses and other flowers, serve respectively as a
+    cool sitting-room and a kitchen, the oven being invariably
+    built on the ground <span class="pagenum">Page
+    168<a name="Page_168"
+       id="Page_168"></a></span>outside the latter, for the sake of
+       coolness. The women, when young, are singularly
+       good-looking, with dark complexions, bright eyes, and
+       luxuriant tresses, which they wear in two plaits, hanging
+       down their backs far below the waist. The men are also, as a
+       rule, fine-looking. In fact, the land is good, and everybody
+       and everything looks prosperous. The beasts are up to their
+       knees in rich pasture, are fat and sleek, and lie down to
+       chew the cud of contentment, instead of searching anxiously
+       for a scanty sustenance. The horses are well fed, and their
+       coats are fine and glossy, and the sheep, pigs, and other
+       animals are in equally good condition. It is therefore a
+       cheery country to travel through, and at this spring-time of
+       the year one sees it in its highest perfection.</p>
+
+    <p>Before reaching Talca we had to cross the Maule, a wide,
+    deep river, with a swift current. The carriage was first put on
+    board a large flat-bottomed boat, into which the horses then
+    jumped, one by one, the last to embark tumbling down and
+    rolling among the legs of the others. With a large oar the boat
+    was steered across the stream, down which it drifted about 200
+    yards into shallow water, where the boatmen jumped out and
+    towed us to a convenient landing-place. Here we found several
+    people waiting to be ferried over. A troop of mules having been
+    driven into the water, which they seemed rather to enjoy, swam
+    across safely, though they were carried some distance down the
+    river.</p>
+
+    <p>About five o'clock we arrived at Talca, and went straight to
+    the Hotel Colon, kept by Gassaroni. Every Italian who starts an
+    hotel in this part of the world calls it, as a matter of
+    course, 'The Columbus Hotel;' for they are very anxious to
+    claim the great navigator as a countryman, though the Spaniards
+    dispute their right to do so, on the ground that Genoa, where
+    he was really born, was at that time an independent State.
+    While we were waiting for dinner we walked about the town,
+    which so exactly <span class="pagenum">Page
+    169<a name="Page_169"
+       id="Page_169"></a></span>resembles Concepcion and Chilian in
+       the arrangement of its streets, buildings, and trees, that I
+       doubt whether any one familiar with the three places could
+       tell immediately which town he was in, if transported
+       suddenly to the middle of the Plaza, though I believe Talca
+       is rather the largest. It still retains its old Indian name,
+       meaning 'thunder,' doubtless on account of the frequency and
+       violence of the thunder-storms by which it is visited.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, October 23rd</i>.&mdash;Soon after midnight I was
+    aroused by a great noise. At first I thought I was dreaming,
+    but a very brief reflection convinced me of the existence of an
+    energetically played big-drum, somewhere in the immediate
+    neighbourhood of my bed-room. I at once got up and, peeping
+    through the window in the door, saw a military band of
+    twenty-five performers, standing on the other side of the
+    courtyard, blowing and hitting their hardest. It must be
+    confessed that they played well, and that their selection of
+    music was good, but it was, nevertheless, rather annoying,
+    after a long and fatiguing day, and with the prospect of an
+    early start, to be kept awake until half-past three in the
+    morning, while they serenaded and toasted the <i>prima
+    donna</i>, and each of the other members of the theatrical
+    company who are staying here. The noise was, of course,
+    increased by the reverberation from the walls of the courtyard,
+    and, finding it impossible to sleep, I abandoned the attempt,
+    and took to writing instead. At last the welcome notes of the
+    Chilian national air gave me hope that the entertainment was
+    over for the night&mdash;or rather morning&mdash;and soon
+    afterwards all was once more quiet.</p>
+
+    <p>We left Talca by the 7.30 train, Mr. Budge, who had business
+    at Curico, accompanying us. All the engines and rolling stock
+    this side of Santiago are of American make and pattern. Mr.
+    Budge had secured one of the long cars, with a passage down the
+    centre, and a saloon at each end, for us, so we were very
+    comfortable, and he told us a great deal about the country as
+    we went along. Like all <span class="pagenum">Page
+    170<a name="Page_170"
+       id="Page_170"></a></span>Chilenos, he is very patriotic, and
+       is especially proud of the financial stability of his
+       country. He often said,' If English people would only invest
+       their money here, instead of in Peru or the Argentine
+       Republic, they would get eight per cent, on good security.'
+       We heard the same thing from many other sources; and it
+       certainly does seem that this country is the most settled,
+       and the least liable to be disturbed by revolutions, of any
+       in South America. At Curico<a name="FNanchor_7_7"
+       id="FNanchor_7_7"></a> <a href="#Footnote_7_7"
+       class="fnanchor">[7]</a> we breakfasted at a little
+       restaurant on Chilian dishes and the wine of the country.
+       The latter is excellent and of various kinds, but it is so
+       cheap that none of the innkeepers can be persuaded to supply
+       it to travellers, whose only chance of tasting it,
+       therefore, is at some small inn.</p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_7_7"
+           id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">
+        [7]</span></a> An Indian name, signifying 'black waters,'
+        having reference to the mineral springs in the neighbouring
+        mountains.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Mr. Budge left us at Pelequen, the next station to San
+    Fernando, having put us in charge of the conductor, who
+    promised to see after us at Cauquenes, but who wofully betrayed
+    his trust. There was no regular station at the latter place,
+    but as the train stopped, and we saw 'Bains de Cauquenes' on an
+    hotel close by, we jumped out just in time to see it go on
+    again. Luckily the other passengers were kind enough to
+    interest themselves on our behalf, and shrieked and hallooed to
+    such good purpose that the engine was once more brought to a
+    standstill, and our luggage was put out. Half-a-dozen little
+    boys carried it to the inn, where I had to explain to the
+    <i>patron</i>, in my best Spanish, that we wanted a carriage to
+    go to the baths, seven leagues off. In a wonderfully short
+    space of time, four good horses were harnessed to a queer sort
+    of vehicle, which held four inside and one out, besides the
+    driver, and which had to be entered by means of a ladder.
+    Having all packed in, and paid our fare beforehand, we were
+    rattled off at a merry pace towards the Andes. The road went up
+    and down and round about, and crossed
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 171<a name="Page_171"
+       id="Page_171"></a></span>many rivers, but was fairly good
+       throughout. We changed once at a large hacienda, where a man
+       went into a large yard, containing about sixty horses, and
+       dexterously lassoed the particular four required for our
+       use. Several horsemen were waiting about, and I looked at
+       their saddles, which were made of a dozen or more
+       sheepskins, laid one on the top of the other, forming a soft
+       seat to ride in by day and a comfortable bed to sleep on at
+       night.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_186"
+             id="Illus_186"></a> <img src="images/t_186.jpg"
+             width="235"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Baths of Cauquenes"
+             title="Illustration: Baths of Cauquenes" /><br />
+        <b>Baths of Cauquenes</b><br />
+        <a href="images/186.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Early in the afternoon we saw some buildings in the
+    distance, which we rightly guessed to be the baths, and soon
+    afterwards we passed in at the entrance gate of the
+    establishment, by the side of which was a rock with the word
+    'Welcome' painted upon its face. The whole distance from the
+    station was twenty-three miles, which we had accomplished in a
+    little over two hours. Driving between hedgerows of roses in
+    full bloom, we were not long in <span class="pagenum">Page
+    172<a name="Page_172"
+       id="Page_172"></a></span>reaching the door of the hotel,
+       where we were received by the proprietor. He told us he was
+       very full, but he managed to find us some small rooms, and
+       then conducted us to the luxuriously fitted bathing
+       establishment. After this came the table-d'h&ocirc;te, to
+       which about seventy sat down, though many of the visitors
+       were dining in their own rooms. In the evening we walked
+       about the garden and chatted with several people, who all
+       seemed to have heard of us and our voyage, and to be anxious
+       to know what we thought of the Straits. We saw some English
+       papers too, which was a great treat, though there did not
+       seem to be much news in them.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, October 24th</i>.&mdash;This is a wonderful
+    place, built entirely of wood. The centre part is a square,
+    seventy yards in extent, surrounded by a single row of
+    one-storied rooms, with doors opening into the courtyard, and
+    windows looking over the river or up into the mountains. In the
+    middle of the square are a pavilion containing two
+    billiard-tables, a boot-blacking arbour, covered with white and
+    yellow jessamine and scarlet and cream-coloured honeysuckle,
+    plenty of flower-beds, full of roses and orange-trees, and a
+    monkey on a pole, who must, poor creature, have a sorry life of
+    it, as it is his business to afford amusement to all the
+    visitors to the baths. He is very good-tempered, does several
+    tricks, and is tormented 'from early dawn to dewy eve.' I
+    remonstrated with our host on his behalf; but he merely
+    shrugged his shoulders and said, 'Mais il faut que le monde se
+    divertisse, Madame.' From the centre square, marble steps lead
+    to a large hall, with marble baths on either side, for ladies
+    and gentlemen respectively. A few steps further bring one to a
+    delightful swimming-bath, about forty feet square, filled with
+    tepid water. The water, as it springs from the rock, is boiling
+    hot, and contains, I believe, a good deal of magnesia and other
+    salts, beneficial in cases of rheumatism and gout; but the high
+    temperature of the water makes the air very
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 173<a name="Page_173"
+       id="Page_173"></a></span>muggy, and we all found the place
+       relaxing, though perhaps it was because we indulged too
+       freely in the baths, which are a great temptation.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_188"
+             id="Illus_188"></a> <img src="images/t_188.jpg"
+             width="197"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Up the Valley towards the Andes"
+             title="Illustration: Up the Valley towards the Andes" /><br />
+
+        <b>Up the Valley towards the Andes</b><br />
+        <a href="images/188.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>In the afternoon we went for a ride, to see a celebrated
+    view of the Andes. Unfortunately it was rather misty, but we
+    could see enough to enable us to imagine the rest. Some condors
+    were soaring round the rocky peaks, and the landscape, though
+    well clothed with vegetation, had a weird, dreary character of
+    its own, partly due to the quantity of large cacti that grew in
+    every nook and corner, singly, or in groups of ten or twelve,
+    to the height of twenty or thirty feet. Though they say it
+    hardly ever rains in Chili, a heavy shower fell this afternoon,
+    and our <span class="pagenum">Page 174<a name="Page_174"
+       id="Page_174"></a></span>landlord thoughtfully sent a boy on
+       horseback after us with umbrellas.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, October 25th</i>.&mdash;The bath was so
+    delightful this morning, that we felt quite sorry it was to be
+    our last. One could very well spend a week or two here, and
+    find plenty to do in the way of excursions into the valleys of
+    the Andes, which look most inviting in the distance.</p>
+
+    <p>At half-past ten, we set out on our return journey to the
+    railway, changing horses at the same place where we had stopped
+    at coming up, and which we reached half an hour before the
+    train was due; when it arrived we were allowed to get in with
+    our belongings in rather a less hurried fashion than we had
+    alighted. Luncheon was procured at Rancagua, and we finally
+    reached Santiago at about 4.50 p.m. No sooner had we got fairly
+    into the station than the car was invaded by a crowd of Porters
+    touting for employment. They are all dressed in white, and wear
+    red caps, on which is a brass number, by means of which they
+    are easily recognised. The landlord from the Hotel Ingles, M.
+    Tellier, met us, and we at once drove off, leaving our luggage
+    to follow, in charge of one of the red-capped gentlemen. The
+    drive from the station was along the Alameda, on either side of
+    which were many fine houses; but the road was ill-paved and
+    shaky as usual.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_189"
+             id="Illus_189"></a> <img src="images/t_189.jpg"
+             width="167"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Cacti of the Cordillera"
+             title="Illustration: Cacti of the Cordillera" /><br />
+        <b>Cacti of the Cordillera</b><br />
+        <a href="images/189.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The Grand Hotel, which used to be considered the best in
+    South America, is now shut up, the company who owned it having
+    recently failed; so all the smaller hotels, none
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 175<a name="Page_175"
+       id="Page_175"></a></span>of which are very good, are crowded
+       to overflowing. The Hotel Ingles is considered the best,
+       though I cannot say much in its favour. The rooms are good,
+       but the situation is noisy, being at the corner of two
+       streets; the servants are attentive, but the cuisine and
+       arrangements are bad. Independently of all this, we have
+       great reason to complain of the conduct of the landlord, for
+       my first question, as soon as he had introduced himself,
+       was, of course, 'Have Mr. and Miss Brassey arrived?' 'Yes,
+       Madame, and went away this morning.' 'What! and left no
+       letter?' 'No; but Monsieur returns to-morrow.' Imagine my
+       surprise and disappointment! But there was nothing to be
+       done but to go to the hotel and wait patiently. We
+       afterwards found that <i>Tom had left a long letter, and
+       that he had never said a word about returning</i>. The
+       wretched man would not give me the letter, because he
+       thought he could detain us, and he never sent the telegram I
+       handed to him to forward to Tom at once, asking for an
+       answer.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_190"
+             id="Illus_190"></a> <img src="images/t_190.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="128"
+             alt="Illustration: Huasso Huts"
+             title="Illustration: Huasso Huts" /><br />
+        <b>Huasso Huts</b><br />
+        <a href="images/190.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Our luggage arrived just in time to enable us to dress for
+    the second table-d'h&ocirc;te at six o'clock, after which we
+    went for a walk through some arcades, paved with marble, and
+    full of fine shops, past the Grand Hotel, which was situated at
+    the end of the Alameda, and is built over an
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 176<a name="Page_176"
+       id="Page_176"></a></span>arcade of shops. It is a handsome
+       building, and must command a fine view. The cathedral and
+       the archbishop's palace, large but rather dull-looking brick
+       buildings, are close by. The surrounding gardens looked
+       pretty by gaslight, and the scent of roses pervaded the
+       evening air.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_191"
+             id="Illus_191"></a> <img src="images/t_191.jpg"
+             width="164"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Huasso of Chili"
+             title="Illustration: Huasso of Chili" /><br />
+        <b>Huasso of Chili</b><br />
+        <a href="images/191.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 177<a name="Page_177"
+       id="Page_177"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XI"
+       id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">SANTIAGO AND VALPARAISO.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>Gems of the changing autumn, how beautiful you
+            are</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Shining from your glassy
+            stems, like many a golden star</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, October 26th</i>.&mdash;Our kind hostess at
+    Lota had given us a letter of introduction to her manager at
+    Santiago, who called this morning to inquire what arrangements
+    he could make which would be most agreeable to us during our
+    stay. She had also given orders that her carriages and horses
+    should be placed at our disposal, and at about ten o'clock we
+    all started in an open break, drawn by a pair of good-looking
+    half-bred brown horses, bigger than any we had seen before in
+    this country.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_192"
+             id="Illus_192"></a> <img src="images/t_192.jpg"
+             width="147"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Morning Mass at Santiago"
+             title="Illustration: Morning Mass at Santiago" /><br />
+        <b>Morning Mass at Santiago</b><br />
+        <a href="images/192.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We went first to the Compa&ntilde;&iacute;a, a large open
+    square, planted with flowers, the site of the old Jesuit
+    Church, which was burnt down on December 8th, 1863. Well known
+    as the story is, I may here recall the tragic details, standing
+    on the very spot where they took place. It was the Feast of the
+    Virgin, and the church was densely crowded with a congregation
+    composed almost <span class="pagenum">Page
+    178<a name="Page_178"
+       id="Page_178"></a></span>entirely of women, principally
+       young, many of whom were servant-girls. Some of the
+       draperies used in the decoration of the building caught
+       fire, the flames spread rapidly, destroying in their course
+       the cords by which the numerous paraffin and oil lamps were
+       suspended across the nave and aisles, and precipitating
+       their burning contents upon the people beneath. The great
+       doors opened inwards; the crowd, trying to press out, closed
+       them, and kept them hermetically sealed. The priests,
+       anxious to save the church properties and sacred relics,
+       shut the large iron gates across the chancel and kept them
+       fastened, notwithstanding the agonising shrieks of the
+       unhappy victims, many of whom might otherwise have escaped.
+       Their conduct on this terrible occasion created at the time
+       a feeling of bitter and universal indignation, and caused a
+       shock to the popularity and authority of the priesthood in
+       this country, from which it will take them a long time to
+       recover.</p>
+
+    <p>Mr. Long told us that, between seven and eight o'clock on
+    the evening of the catastrophe, he was walking with some
+    friends on the Alameda, when he saw smoke rising in dense
+    volumes from the quarter of the city where the house in which
+    he resided was situated. He and his friends ran quickly in the
+    direction of the fire, giving the alarm as they went, and on
+    reaching the church they found the doors closely shut, while
+    fearful screams were issuing from the interior, and smoke and
+    flames pouring from the windows. They got a party of men
+    together accustomed to the use of the lasso&mdash;no difficult
+    task here&mdash;and with them climbed from the neighbouring
+    houses to the top of the church. Making a hole in the roof,
+    they then dropped their lassoes over some of the women beneath,
+    and so dragged them out of the building; but the number thus
+    saved was necessarily very small, and it happened too often
+    that many of the poor creatures below, in their eagerness to
+    escape, hung on to the legs or body of the one they saw
+    lassoed, and by their weight literally dragged
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 179<a name="Page_179"
+       id="Page_179"></a></span>her to pieces. Sometimes even a
+       lasso broke, and those clinging to it, when almost within
+       reach of safety, were again precipitated into the burning
+       mass below. Any one who has seen a raw hide lasso, capable
+       of withstanding the sudden rush of the fiercest bull ever
+       captured, will be able to realise the immense strain which
+       would be required to cause one to give way. The next morning
+       at daybreak, the interior of the church presented a terrible
+       spectacle. Mr. Long described it as being full of women,
+       standing up, tightly wedged together, their hands stretched
+       out as if in an attitude of supplication, their faces and
+       the upper part of their bodies charred beyond recognition,
+       the lower part, from the waist downwards, completely
+       untouched.</p>
+
+    <p>Their remains were buried in one large grave, in the
+    cemetery of the Recoleta, and the spot is now marked by a
+    square piece of ground, full of bright flowers, enclosed by
+    iron railings, almost hidden by the creepers that entwine them,
+    and shaded by willows, orange-trees, cypresses, and
+    pomegranates. In the centre is a large cross, and on either
+    side of the iron railings there is a marble tablet with the
+    simple but touching inscription, in Spanish&mdash;</p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">'Incendio de la Iglesia<br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1em;">de la
+    Compa&ntilde;&iacute;a,</span><br />
+    8 de Diciembre, 1863.<br />
+    Restos de las V&iacute;ctimas;<br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1em;">2000, mas o
+    m&eacute;nos.'</span><br />
+    <br />
+    (Burning of the Church of the Compa&ntilde;&iacute;a, December
+    8th, 1863<br />
+    Remains of the victims. 2,000, more or less.)</p>
+
+    <p>Almost every household in Santiago had lost one of its
+    members. One lovely girl of seventeen was pulled out through
+    the roof and taken to Madame Cousi&ntilde;o's residence, where
+    she lay for nearly a fortnight. She suffered the greatest
+    agonies, but was sensible to the last, and gave a graphic
+    account of the whole harrowing scene. The site of the church,
+    hallowed by such sad memories, has never been built upon, but
+    is preserved as an open space, <span class="pagenum">Page
+    180<a name="Page_180"
+       id="Page_180"></a></span>surrounded by a strip of garden,
+       and having in its centre a finely carved monument.</p>
+
+    <p>The Houses of Congress were the next thing we went to see,
+    after which we drove through a great part of the city and over
+    a handsome bridge with statues and small niches on either side.
+    Beneath it, however, there is little more than a dry torrent
+    bed; and it is said that an American, when visiting this spot
+    with a Santiago friend, who was showing him round, remarked, 'I
+    guess you ought either to buy a river or sell this here
+    bridge.' We also went to the Church of La Recoleta. From the
+    church we went to the cemetery of the same name, which is
+    prettily laid out, and well stocked with flowers and trees.</p>
+
+    <p>It being now past eleven o'clock, we began to think about
+    breakfast, and accordingly returned to the hotel, where I was
+    disappointed to find no news from Tom and no answer to the
+    telegram I sent last night.</p>
+
+    <p>At one o'clock we started again, and had a pleasant but
+    rather dusty drive of eight miles to Macul, the stud-farm
+    established by the late Don Luis Cousi&ntilde;o.</p>
+
+    <p>We had some luncheon at Mr. Canning's house, in a room that
+    had recently been split from top to bottom by an earthquake,
+    and afterwards sat in the verandah to see the horses and some
+    of the cattle, which were brought round for our inspection.
+    Amongst them were Fanfaron, Fandango, and other beautiful
+    thoroughbreds, three fine Cleveland coach-horses, Suffolk
+    cart-horses and percherons, and some of the young stock. We saw
+    only a few of the beasts, as at this time they are away feeding
+    on the hills, but I believe they are as good as the horses. Mr.
+    Long had arranged for us all to ride round the farm, and I was
+    mounted on a lovely chestnut mare, sixteen hands high, daughter
+    of Fanfaron, and niece to Kettledrum. I should have liked to
+    have bought her and sent her home, but she was not for sale,
+    though her value was 400<i>l</i>. English horses here are as
+    dear, in proportion, as native horses are
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 181<a name="Page_181"
+       id="Page_181"></a></span>cheap. The latter may be bought for
+       from twenty to sixty dollars apiece; and some of them make
+       capital little hacks.</p>
+
+    <p>We rode all over the farm, attended by half-a-dozen peones,
+    who drove the young thoroughbred stock together, in the
+    enormous fields, for us to see, and afterwards did the same
+    thing with some of the cattle. We also went through the farm
+    buildings, in one part of which we saw the operation of making
+    lassoes. The best are composed of neatly plaited strips of
+    cured hide, about a quarter of an inch wide, the commoner sort
+    being made from an undressed cow's hide, with the hair on, cut
+    from the centre in an ever-increasing circle, so that they are
+    in one piece, many yards in length. In another part of the farm
+    there were a few acres more of flower-gardens, orange-trees,
+    and kitchen-gardens.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_196"
+             id="Illus_196"></a> <img src="images/196.gif"
+             width="290"
+             height="375"
+             alt="Illustration: What makes Horses go in Chili"
+             title="Illustration: What makes Horses go in Chili" />
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Beautiful as the whole place is, it loses much in interest
+    from its vastness. You never seem to know where you are, or
+    when you have come to an end. I hear that Madame Cousi&ntilde;o
+    talks of extending the park still further, right up into the
+    mountains, which seems almost a pity, as it is already too big
+    to be kept in really perfect order, even with a hundred and
+    twenty men employed upon it. Everything is completely
+    surrounded and overgrown with flowers. Even the fields are
+    separated by hedges of sweet-smelling double pink roses, and
+    these hedges are larger than many a 'bull-finch' in the old
+    country.</p>
+
+    <p>After a delightful gallop of about two hours, we returned to
+    the farmhouse, where we found a fresh pair of horses waiting
+    for us in the break, and drove back to Santiago by
+    moonlight.</p>
+
+    <p>It was eight o'clock when we reached the hotel, and as the
+    table-d'h&ocirc;te dinner only lasts from five till half-past
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 182<a name="Page_182"
+       id="Page_182"></a></span> seven, I asked for a private
+       dinner in our own room or in the general dining-room, for
+       our own party and two guests in addition. But the landlord
+       said he was not at all sure about giving us dinner; he must
+       see what there was in the kitchen first. We then declared we
+       would go and dine at a cafe, and in less than half an hour
+       managed to get an excellent little dinner at the Cafe
+       Santiago, though even Mr. Long, who ordered it for us, could
+       not induce them to give us native wine. I am bound to
+       confess, however, that we punished ourselves at least as
+       much as the landlord, for as we paid so much a day for board
+       and lodging, he was of course bound to provide us with
+       dinner, and we had thus to pay for our food twice over.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, October 27th</i>.&mdash;Still no news from Tom.
+    Mr. Long called at half-past eight, to take me to the market,
+    and my first step was to send another telegram, this time
+    taking care to see that it really was despatched.</p>
+
+    <p>We then walked through the streets to the market-hall, a
+    handsome iron building, commodiously arranged, which was sent
+    out from England in pieces, and put together here. All round it
+    are stalls, where you can get a capital breakfast, generally
+    consisting of coffee, tender beef-steak, buttered toast, and
+    boiled beans, for a small sum. One of our party, who had been
+    at the market since half-past five, tried one, and fully
+    confirmed the report we had heard as to their excellence and
+    cleanliness. At the time of our visit all these refreshment
+    stalls were crowded, and I felt rather tempted to join one of
+    the hungry merry-looking groups myself. The market was well
+    supplied with meat, fish, vegetables, fruit, and flowers of all
+    kinds, green peas, French beans, and strawberries being
+    specially abundant. There were quantities of queer-looking
+    baskets to be seen, and some curious pottery, made by the nuns
+    from a kind of cement. Outside the building there were men and
+    women hanging about with ponchos, of their own manufacture,
+    which they had brought in from the country, for
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 183<a name="Page_183"
+       id="Page_183"></a></span> sale. We bought some bright
+       specimens as presents for the children, but it took some
+       time to collect them, as each individual had only one to
+       offer. They are the work of the women, in the intervals of
+       household labour, and as soon as one is completed it is
+       sold, in order that materials for a fresh one may be
+       purchased. We also bought some of the carved wooden
+       stirrups, made in the country, and used by all the natives.
+       They are rather like a small coalscuttle in shape, and must
+       be heavy and cumbersome.</p>
+
+    <p>From the market we went to hear high mass at the cathedral.
+    This is a fine building, though the interior seemed very dark.
+    The high altar was illuminated by hundreds of candles, whose
+    light shone on a crowd of kneeling women, all dressed in black,
+    and with black veils over their heads, the contrast between
+    their sombre appearance and the gilding and paintings on the
+    walls&mdash;handsome at a distance, but tawdry on a closer
+    examination&mdash;being very striking. The organ is of splendid
+    tone and quality and reverberated grandly through the aisles,
+    and the whole scene was not without a certain impressiveness. I
+    had not thought of paying a visit to the cathedral when I went
+    out this morning, and it was not until I saw every one staring
+    at me that I remembered I had committed the terrible mistake of
+    going to church in a hat, and without any veil; but we remained
+    in a dark corner most of the time, and emerged into open
+    daylight again before any of the authorities of the place had
+    time to observe or remonstrate with me. My wearing a hat was,
+    however, quite as much against all church rules as a similar
+    proceeding on the part of a man would have been. The women of
+    this city are almost always good-looking when young, and they
+    glide gracefully about the streets in their long black clinging
+    gowns and <i>mantos</i>, by which they are completely enveloped
+    from head to foot.</p>
+
+    <p>In the afternoon we went for a drive in the park, and to see
+    Santa Lucia, of which, as the only hill in Santiago, the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 184<a name="Page_184"
+       id="Page_184"></a></span> inhabitants of the city are very
+       proud, and from thence drove to the Cousi&ntilde;o Park, an
+       extensive piece of ground near the Alameda, laid out and
+       arranged under the direction of the late Don Luis
+       Cousi&ntilde;o, and presented by him to the city of
+       Santiago.</p>
+
+    <p>After a stroll round the park, Mr. Long took us to an
+    emporium for Panama hats, which are made in Lima, Guayaquil,
+    and other states of Chili, as well as in Panama, from a special
+    kind of grass, split very fine, and worn by almost everybody on
+    this coast. The best made cost 340 dollars, or about sixty
+    guineas, and fifty pounds is not at all an uncommon price to
+    pay, though the inferior kind may be had for two pounds. Those
+    ordinarily worn by the gentlemen here cost from twenty to
+    thirty pounds each, but they are so light, pliable, and elastic
+    that they will wear for ever, wash like a pocket-handkerchief,
+    do not get burnt by the sun, and can be rolled up and sat
+    upon&mdash;in fact, ill-treated in any way you
+    like&mdash;without fear of their breaking, tearing, or getting
+    out of shape. For the yacht, however, where so many hats are
+    lost overboard, they would, I fear, prove a rather unprofitable
+    investment.</p>
+
+    <p>We now drove back to the hotel, past the Mint, a handsome
+    building, guarded by soldiers, and with windows protected by
+    iron gratings. On our return I found that one of the valuable
+    ponchos, given to me in the Argentine Republic, had been taken
+    from our room. The landlord declined to trouble himself about
+    its recovery, as he said it was 'most unlikely that any one
+    would take a thing of no value to him here;' the real truth
+    being that the guanaco ponchos are worth nearly double as much
+    in Chili as they are on the other side of the Andes.</p>
+
+    <p>After dinner we walked to the theatre, where we saw <i>La
+    Sonnambula</i> well put on the stage, and well sung and acted
+    by an Italian opera company. The <i>prima donna</i>, contralto,
+    baritone, and bass were all good, but the scenery was
+    occasionally somewhat deficient. The house, which
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 185<a name="Page_185"
+       id="Page_185"></a></span>is highly decorated&mdash;perhaps
+       too much so for the ladies' dresses&mdash;looked well by
+       night, though if it had been full the effect would have been
+       still better. The box-tiers are not divided into
+       pigeon-holes, as they are with us, and everybody can
+       therefore see equally well. The Presidential box seemed
+       commodious and handsome, and had the Chilian coat of arms in
+       front of it, making it look very much like a Royal box.</p>
+
+    <p>The walk back by moonlight was delightful. Some of our party
+    afterwards went to the Union Club, where they met several
+    English gentlemen, who were most kind and pressing in their
+    invitations to them to stay a few days longer, and go up the
+    mountains to see the views and to have some guanaco shooting.
+    About twenty-four hours from here they say you can have your
+    first shot, and a little further on you meet them in herds
+    which may be counted by thousands. There are also wild horses
+    and wild donkeys. Quaggas and huemuls used to be found, but are
+    now extinct. The last named is a rare animal, exactly
+    resembling a horse in every particular, except that its hoofs
+    are cloven. It used only to be found in the mountains of Chili,
+    and it is one of the supporters of the national coat of
+    arms.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, October 28th</i>.&mdash;At 5 a.m. we were
+    called, and soon afterwards parting gifts of flowers began to
+    arrive, and even I was obliged to confess that four large
+    clothes-baskets full of rosebuds were more than I quite knew
+    what to do with. At seven Mr. Long came to know if he could
+    help us in any way, and a little later Madame Cousi&ntilde;o's
+    coachman appeared with the carriage, to take us to the
+    station.</p>
+
+    <p>We had a pleasant drive down the Alameda, the sun shining
+    brilliantly in a bright blue sky, and the distant mountains for
+    the first time being clearly visible. The station was crowded
+    with vendors of pottery, curious things in buffalo horn,
+    sweetmeats, &amp;c. The rolling stock on this line is of
+    English manufacture, and we were therefore put into the too
+    familiar, close, stuffy, first-class carriage, and
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 186<a name="Page_186"
+       id="Page_186"></a></span>duly locked up for the journey down
+       to Valparaiso. The line, running as it does through mountain
+       gorges for a great portion of the way, must have been a
+       difficult one to make.</p>
+
+    <p>Just now the whole country wears a golden tint from the
+    bloom of the espinosa, which seems to grow everywhere, and
+    which is now in perfection. The branches of this shrub are so
+    completely covered with little yellow balls of flowers, which
+    come before the leaves, and which have no separate stalk, but
+    grow along the shiny, horny branches, that they look as if they
+    were made of gold. It is called the 'burning bush' here, and
+    its wood is said to be the hardest in the country. The flowers
+    are often plucked off and dried, in which state they are most
+    fragrant and are used for scenting linen and for keeping away
+    moths. The thorns, however, are a terrible nuisance to the
+    shepherds and owners of cattle, catching their clothes and
+    tearing them as they gallop swiftly across over the plains. If
+    I bore you by saying too much about the flowers, forgive me. I
+    want to make you all realise, if possible, what a lovely
+    flowery land Chili is. The whole air is quite perfumed with
+    roses, principally large double pink roses, something like the
+    old-fashioned cabbage rose, though there are a good many of the
+    monthly kind and a few white and deep scarlet ones. They formed
+    hedgerows on either side of the road, and in many places
+    climbed thirty or forty feet up the trees, and then threw down
+    long brambles laden with bloom, almost producing the effect of
+    a wall of pink. There were also plenty of wild flowers of other
+    sorts, such as scarlet and white lilies, larkspurs,
+    eschscholtzias, evening primroses, and many others whose names
+    I do not know.</p>
+
+    <p>At Llaillai we stopped for breakfast, procured at a small
+    restaurant at the station. While waiting for the train for
+    Santiago to come in, we had plenty of time to observe the
+    half-Indian girls selling fruit, flowers, cakes, &amp;c., and
+    jabbering away in a sort of <i>patois</i> Spanish, in
+    recommendation <span class="pagenum">Page 187<a name="Page_187"
+       id="Page_187"></a></span>of their wares. Some of them were
+       really pretty, and all were picturesquely dressed in
+       bright-coloured stuffs, their hair neatly done up and
+       decorated with flowers, their faces clean and smiling. At
+       11.15 a.m. we reached Quillota, where the train was
+       literally besieged by men, women, and children, offering
+       bouquets for sale&mdash;two or three of which were thrust in
+       at every carriage window&mdash;and baskets of strawberries,
+       cherimoyas, nisperos, melons, oranges, sugar-cane, plantain,
+       bananas, asparagus, green peas, French beans, eggs,
+       chickens, and even fish&mdash;nice little pejereyes, fresh
+       from the stream close by. It must evidently be the custom of
+       the Chilenos to visit by rail these fertile districts, for
+       the purpose of doing their marketing; for the occupants of
+       the train soon absorbed the entire stock of the vendors, who
+       were left with empty baskets.</p>
+
+    <p>I never saw such a country as this is for eggs and chickens.
+    A hen seems never to have a smaller brood than ten, and I have
+    often counted from seventeen to twenty-one chickens with the
+    mother, and, more than once, as many as twenty-four. However
+    well you may have breakfasted or dined, the waiters always come
+    at the end of the meal to ask, not <i>whether</i> you will have
+    any eggs, but <i>how</i> you will have them&mdash;fried,
+    boiled, poached, or in some sort of omelette. If you refuse
+    altogether, the chances are that two very lightly boiled eggs
+    will be placed by your side, with the suggestion that you
+    should beat them up and drink them. The inhabitants of the
+    country always seem to finish their meals with eggs in some
+    form or another.</p>
+
+    <p>The celebrated 'Bell of Quillota,' a mountain which derives
+    its name from its peculiar shape, and which serves as a good
+    landmark in entering the harbour of Valparaiso, is well seen
+    from the railway, a little below Quillota Station. We stopped
+    again at Limache, a little village, situated in the midst of a
+    fertile country, about twenty-five miles from Valparaiso, where
+    fruit, flowers, &amp;c., were as freely offered for sale as
+    before, and again at Vi&ntilde;a del Mar, the next
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 188<a name="Page_188"
+       id="Page_188"></a></span>station to Valparaiso. There is a
+       good hotel here, in the midst of a pretty garden, where you
+       can get an excellent breakfast or dinner.</p>
+
+    <p>From this spot the line runs close along the edge of the
+    sea, and we strained our eyes in vain, trying to discover the
+    yacht. At the station we were assailed by porters and touts of
+    every description, but, seeing no one to meet us, and not
+    knowing where to go, we contented ourselves with collecting our
+    luggage in a little heap, while a fight went on close by
+    between a policeman and a coachman, who had been too persistent
+    in his endeavours to obtain a fare. They knocked one another
+    about a good deal, and broke one or two windows, after which
+    they appeared quite satisfied, shook hands, and were good
+    friends again. Tom, Mabelle, and Muriel arrived before it was
+    over, and we were very glad to meet again after our short
+    absence.</p>
+
+    <p>A long, dusty drive brought us to the mole, and while the
+    luggage was being packed into the boat, Tom and I went to call
+    on the British Consul, where we found some letters. We were on
+    board in time for two o'clock luncheon, after which, amid many
+    interruptions from visitors, we devoured our news from home and
+    other parts&mdash;for amongst our letters were some from Natal,
+    India, Japan, Canada, Teneriffe, South American ports, St.
+    Petersburg, Constantinople, and several other places, besides
+    those from dear old England.</p>
+
+    <p>About four o'clock Tom and I went ashore. We had intended
+    going alone in the 'Flash' (our lightest boat), but a strong
+    southerly wind had sprung up, which at once made the sea so
+    rough that we went in the 'Gleam' (the gig) instead, with six
+    oars. It took the men all their time to get us ashore, though
+    we had not far to go, for wind, tide, and waves were all
+    against us.</p>
+
+    <p>Valparaiso consists mainly of two interminable streets,
+    running along the edge of the sea, at the foot of the hills,
+    which rise immediately behind them, and on which
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 189<a name="Page_189"
+       id="Page_189"></a></span>are built all the residences and
+       villas of the gentlemen of the place. Very few live in the
+       town itself, which is composed almost entirely of large
+       warehouses and fine shops, where you can get almost anything
+       you want by paying between three and four times as much for
+       it as you would do in England. For instance, the charge for
+       hair-cutting is a dollar and a half (4s.), a
+       three-and-sixpenny Letts's Diary costs two dollars and a
+       half (10s.), a tall hat costs fifty-eight shillings, you
+       must pay sixpence each for parchment luggage-labels,
+       threepence apiece for quill pens, four shillings for a quire
+       of common notepaper, and so on in proportion.</p>
+
+    <p>We had, as I have said, seen the yacht leave Lota Bay, with
+    a strong head-wind blowing, on Thursday, the 19th instant. In a
+    few hours the wind fell to a calm, which then changed to a
+    light favourable breeze, and the 'Sunbeam' reached Valparaiso
+    on the following Saturday afternoon, anchoring out in the bay,
+    not far from H.M.S. 'Opal.' Here they rolled and tumbled about
+    even more than if they had been at sea, the swinging capacities
+    of the saloon tables and lamps being tried to the utmost. On
+    Sunday half the men went ashore for a few hours' leave, but
+    neither they nor the boat returned until the next morning, as
+    they had not been allowed to leave the shore after nine
+    o'clock. In the meantime Tom had been told that small-pox was
+    raging in the town, and he was much annoyed at their having to
+    pass the night on shore, owing to proper inquiries as to the
+    regulations of the port not having been made by them on
+    landing. The next day the doctor went to see some medical
+    <i>confr&egrave;res</i> at the hospital, and found that the
+    reports were much exaggerated, the reality being that small-pox
+    is always more or less prevalent both here and at Santiago.
+    Three months ago it was very bad, but at the present time it is
+    not worse than usual. Tom and Mabelle started for Santiago on
+    Monday, but unfortunately left their letters of introduction
+    behind; and as they did <span class="pagenum">Page
+    190<a name="Page_190"
+       id="Page_190"></a></span> not like the hotel, they found it
+       rather dull. We could not telegraph to them from Cauquenes,
+       or anywhere <i>en route</i>, for there were no wires; so on
+       Wednesday morning, not hearing or seeing anything of us,
+       they returned to Valparaiso. Tom left a long letter for me,
+       with enclosures (which I never received), in the innkeeper's
+       hands, asking for a telegraphic reply as to our plans and
+       intentions, and, as I have already mentioned, never said a
+       word about coming back. Thursday was spent in seeing what
+       little there is to see in Valparaiso, and in visiting the
+       'Opal.' On Friday Tom went for a sail, moved the yacht close
+       inshore, had a dinner-party on board, and went to a pleasant
+       ball afterwards, given by the Philharmonic Society, an
+       association of the same sort as the one at Rio. It was not,
+       however, called a regular ball, but a <i>teriulia</i>, so
+       the ladies were in <i>demi-toilette</i>. Tom described the
+       room as good, the floor first-rate, the music excellent, the
+       ladies good-looking, and the men agreeable. To-day he met us
+       at the station with the children; and now, therefore, one
+       account will describe the movements of the whole reunited
+       party.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, October 29th</i>.&mdash;We all went ashore to
+    church, having been told it was only five minutes' walk from
+    the landing-place, instead of which it took us at least a
+    quarter of an hour, in an intensely hot sun, to climb up a
+    steep hill. The building itself was large, airy, and cool, and
+    there is a good organ and choir, but most of the choristers had
+    gone away to-day to a picnic in the country. During the Litany
+    our attention was suddenly drawn to the fact that earthquakes
+    are matters of frequent occurrence in this country, by a
+    special prayer being offered up for preservation from them and
+    their destructive effects.</p>
+
+    <p>At four o'clock we went ashore for a ride, and having
+    climbed the hills at the back of the town, which command
+    extensive views over land and sea, we galloped across the downs
+    and through some villages on to the old high road from
+    Valparaiso to Santiago, along which we rode only
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 191<a name="Page_191"
+       id="Page_191"></a></span>for a few yards, turning off into a
+       romantic valley, where the path was so narrow that we could
+       barely squeeze through between the thickly growing shrubs
+       and trees. At last we went up a steep hill on to another
+       high road, and re-entered the town quite at the opposite end
+       to that at which we had left it, after which a ride of two
+       miles along the stony, ill-paved streets brought us to the
+       landing-place.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, October 30th</i>.&mdash;We were to be off
+    directly the sea-breeze sprang up, at about eleven o'clock, and
+    as I had many letters to write, I was called at 4 a.m., and
+    finished them all before breakfast at eight. But first one
+    visitor and then another arrived, and it was nearly eleven
+    o'clock when we landed to make the final preparations for
+    starting on our long voyage of eleven thousand miles across the
+    Pacific.</p>
+
+    <p>Our route, as at present, arranged, will be vi&acirc; the
+    Society, Friendly, and Sandwich Islands. Juan Fernandez
+    (Robinson Crusoe's Island), which we at first thought of
+    visiting, we have been obliged, I am sorry to say, to give up,
+    not on account of its distance from Valparaiso, as it is only
+    270 miles off, but because it lies too far to the southward,
+    and is consequently quite out of the track of the trade wind,
+    which we ought to pick up, according to the charts and sailing
+    directions, about 500 miles to the northward and westward of
+    this place. I have been trying to persuade Tom to steam out
+    five or six hundred miles, so that we may make a quick passage
+    and economise our time as much as possible, but he is anxious
+    to do <i>the whole</i> voyage under sail, and we are therefore
+    taking very little coal on board, in order to be in the best
+    trim. If we do not pick up a wind, however, there is no knowing
+    how long we may lollop about. I suppose till we are short of
+    water and fresh provisions, when the fires will be lighted and
+    we shall steam away to the nearest island&mdash;uninhabited, we
+    will hope, or at any rate peopled by friendly
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 192<a name="Page_192"
+       id="Page_192"></a></span>natives, which is rather the
+       exception than the rule in the south-east corner of the Low
+       Archipelago. There we shall fill up with fresh water,
+       bananas, bread-fruit, and perhaps a wild hog or two, and
+       resume our voyage to Tahiti. But this is the least
+       favourable view of the matter, and we must hope to fall in
+       with the trades soon, and that they will blow strong and
+       true.</p>
+
+    <p>The island of Juan Fernandez now belongs to the Chilian
+    government, but is let on a long lease to a man who, they say
+    here, is somewhat of a robber. He was very desirous that we
+    should give him a passage in the yacht, and another man wanted
+    to come too, with some pointers, to show us the best spots for
+    game, goats, turtle, crayfish, and sea-fish, with all of which
+    the place abounds. Some cattle have also been introduced, and
+    the island is much frequented by whalers, who go there for
+    fresh provisions and water. There is nothing particular to be
+    seen, however, and the scenery of the island is not remarkable;
+    at least, so people who have been there tell us, and the
+    photographs I have bought quite confirm their report. Admiral
+    Simpson, who stayed there once for a fortnight, told us a good
+    deal about the place, and strongly recommended us not to go
+    there unless we had plenty of time to spare, as we should not
+    be repaid for our trouble, which would probably only result in
+    the dissipation of all our childish illusions.</p>
+
+    <p>Our first step on landing this morning was to go to the
+    Consul's to post our letters. By the bye, I hope people in
+    England will appreciate them, for they cost between nine and
+    ten pounds to send home. For our outward letters, although
+    prepaid in England, we had to pay over eight pounds before we
+    were allowed to have them from the office. Twenty-nine cases of
+    stores, provisions, wine, &amp;c., which had also been sent
+    out, all arrived safely, and cost comparatively little. There
+    are very good French hair-dressers here, a tempting hat-shop,
+    and a well-stocked <span class="pagenum">Page
+    193<a name="Page_193"
+       id="Page_193"></a></span>book-shop; but everything, as I
+       have said, is frightfully dear.</p>
+
+    <p>It was half-past three when the harbour-tug arrived to tow
+    us out of the harbour and so save our getting up steam. There
+    was not a breath of air stirring, but Tom hoped we should find
+    more outside when the tug cast us off. As we dropped slowly
+    out, we had a good view of the harbour and town; and we soon
+    found ourselves once more fairly embarked on the bosom of the
+    wide ocean.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 194<a name="Page_194"
+       id="Page_194"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XII"
+       id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">VALPARAISO TO TAHITI.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>The western sea was all
+            aflame,</i><br /></span> <span><i>The day was well nigh
+            done!</i><br /></span> <span><i>Almost upon the western
+            wave</i><br /></span> <span><i>Rested the broad bright
+            sun.</i><br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, October 31st</i>.&mdash;Throughout the night a
+    flat calm prevailed. The morning was wet and foggy, or we might
+    still have seen Valparaiso, and perhaps have had a peep at
+    Aconcagua. There was a light contrary wind from the N.W.
+    throughout the day. In the afternoon we saw two whales blowing
+    in the distance.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, November 1st</i>.&mdash;An almost calm day,
+    with a few light showers, and fitful but unfavourable breezes.
+    Some thirty or forty little birds, which the sailors called
+    Mother Carey's chickens, but which were smaller and more
+    graceful than any I have seen of that name, followed closely in
+    our wake. I was never tired of watching the dainty way in which
+    they just touched the tips of the waves with their feet, and
+    then started off afresh, like a little maiden skipping and
+    hopping along, from sheer exuberance of spirit.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, November 2nd</i>.&mdash;A bright sunny morning,
+    with a heavy swell and light contrary wind, but the sea became
+    more tranquil towards the evening. The sunset was superb, and
+    the afterglow, as is often the case in these latitudes, lighted
+    up sky and sea with an indescribable beauty, which attained its
+    greatest magnificence about five minutes after the sun had
+    disappeared, reminding one of the <span class="pagenum">Page
+    195<a name="Page_195"
+       id="Page_195"></a></span> glorious sunsets of the African
+       deserts, so often described by travellers.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, November 3rd</i>.&mdash;Still a blue sky, bright
+    sunshine, smooth sea, and light head-wind. The crew have all
+    turned tailors, and are making themselves new suits from some
+    dungaree we bought at Valparaiso, the clothes we expected for
+    them not having met us there.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_210"
+             id="Illus_210"></a> <img src="images/t_210.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="183"
+             alt="Illustration: Juvenile Scrubbers"
+             title="Illustration: Juvenile Scrubbers" /><br />
+        <b>Juvenile Scrubbers</b><br />
+        <a href="images/210.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, November 4th</i>.&mdash;As fine as ever. This
+    is certainly sailing luxuriously, if not swiftly. We have now
+    settled down into our regular sea-ways, and have plenty to do
+    on board; so the delay does not much signify. Still, our time
+    is limited, and we all hope to fall in with the trades shortly
+    to carry us to Tahiti or some of the South Sea islands. We
+    caught half-a-dozen of the little petrels, for stuffing, by
+    floating lines of black cotton astern, in which they became
+    entangled.</p>
+
+    <p>To-night's sunset was more superb than ever. Each moment
+    produced a new and ever increasingly grand effect. I mean to
+    try and take an instantaneous photograph of
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 196<a name="Page_196"
+       id="Page_196"></a></span>one. It would not, of course,
+       reproduce all the marvellous shades of colouring, but it
+       would perhaps give some idea of the forms of the masses of
+       cloud, which are finer than any I ever saw before. This
+       ocean seems to give one, in a strange way, a sense of solemn
+       vastness, which was not produced to the same extent by the
+       Atlantic. Whether this results from our knowledge of its
+       size, or whether it is only fancy, I cannot say, but it is
+       an impression which we all share.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, November 5th</i>.&mdash;Fine, and considerably
+    hotter, though not unpleasantly so. We had the Litany at
+    eleven, and evening prayers and a sermon at four o'clock. Not a
+    single ship has passed within sight since we left Valparaiso,
+    and the only living creatures we have seen are some
+    albatrosses, a few white boobies, a cape-hen, the little
+    petrels already mentioned, a shoal of porpoises, and two
+    whales.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, November 6th</i>.&mdash;Passed, at 3 a.m. to-day,
+    a large barque, steering south, and at 8 a.m. a full-rigged
+    ship, steering the same course. We held&mdash;as we do with
+    every ship we pass&mdash;a short conversation with her through
+    the means of the mercantile code of signals. (This habit of
+    exchanging signals afterwards proved to have been a most useful
+    practice, for when the report that the 'Sunbeam' had gone down
+    with all hands was widely circulated through England, I might
+    almost say the world,&mdash;for we found the report had
+    preceded us by telegram to almost all the later ports we
+    touched at,&mdash;the anxiety of our friends was relieved many
+    days sooner than it would otherwise have been by the fact of
+    our having spoken the German steamer 'Sakhara,' in the Magellan
+    Straits, Oct. 13, four days after we were supposed to have gone
+    to the bottom.) The weather continues fine, and we have the
+    same light baffling winds. We hoped, when we started, to
+    average at least 200 miles a day, but now we have been a week
+    at sea, and have only made good a little more than 700 miles
+    altogether, though we have sailed over 800 miles through
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 197<a name="Page_197"
+       id="Page_197"></a></span>the water. It is, however,
+       wonderful, in the opinion of the navigators, that we have
+       made even as much progress as this, considering the very
+       adverse circumstances under which the voyage has so far been
+       performed, and we must endeavour to console ourselves with
+       the reflection that the sailing qualities of the yacht have
+       undergone another severe test in a satisfactory manner. How
+       the provisions and water will last out, and what time we
+       shall leave ourselves to see anything of Japan, are
+       questions which, nevertheless, occasionally present
+       themselves to our minds. Independently of such
+       considerations, nothing could be more luxurious and
+       delightful than our present mode of
+       <span class="pagenum">Page 198<a name="Page_198"
+       id="Page_198"></a></span>existence. With perfect weather,
+       plenty of books to read and writing to do, no possibility of
+       interruptions, one can map out one's day and dispose of
+       one's time exactly as one pleases, until the half-past six
+       o'clock dressing-bell&mdash;which always seems to come long
+       before it is wanted&mdash;recalls one to the duties and
+       necessities of life.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_212"
+             id="Illus_212"></a> <img src="images/t_212.jpg"
+             width="149"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Conversation at Sea"
+             title="Illustration: Conversation at Sea" /><br />
+        <b>Conversation at Sea</b><br />
+        <a href="images/212.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, November 8th</i>.&mdash;A grey cloudy morning
+    and a flat calm. At twelve o'clock, to the great joy of
+    everybody on board, Tom decided to get up steam, as we have now
+    been becalmed quite twenty-four hours, and have made but little
+    progress in the right direction for some days. The alacrity
+    with which the order to stow sails and raise the funnel was
+    obeyed&mdash;every one lending a hand&mdash;and the delight
+    expressed on every countenance, must have assured him of at
+    least the popularity of his decision.</p>
+
+    <p>Whilst we were waiting for steam to be got up, Tom took
+    Muriel and me for a row in the 'Flash,' his own particular
+    little boat, with about four inches of freeboard. The
+    possibility of doing this will give you a better idea of the
+    tranquillity of this vast ocean than any description I can
+    write. At the same time, when we wanted to get into the boat,
+    we found there was a considerable roll on, and that it was no
+    easy matter without the aid of a gangway or ladder. We rowed a
+    little way from the yacht, and, considering how quiet it had
+    seemed to us when on board, it was wonderful to observe how she
+    rolled in the trough of the sea, without sails to steady her or
+    motive power to guide her. The Lota coals, though black and
+    dirty beyond description, burn up very quickly, and in about an
+    hour we were steaming merrily along, the Arabian horseshoe on
+    our bowsprit's end being now pointed direct for the island of
+    Tahiti, instead of for wherever the wind chose to blow us.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, November 9th</i>.&mdash;A flat calm at 6 a.m.;
+    a very light fair wind at 9 a.m. In spite of my remonstrances,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 199<a name="Page_199"
+       id="Page_199"></a></span> Tom determined, at half-past nine,
+       to cease steaming and try sailing again. About twelve
+       o'clock a puff came that sent us along at the rate of 10-1/2
+       knots for a short time; but it soon dropped, and during the
+       rest of the afternoon and evening, our average speed was
+       only three or four knots an hour. This is very poor work for
+       the trades, but I don't believe we are really in them yet,
+       in spite of the wind charts. It is possible that they may
+       vary in different years; besides which it is now the height
+       of summer, with the sun south of the line, which would
+       naturally make them lighter.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, November 11th</i>.&mdash;At last we seem to be
+    feeling the influence of the trades, as the wind continues to
+    blow from the same direction, though it varies much in force.
+    Sometimes we are going along at the rate of 11-3/4 knots,
+    sometimes barely five. In the afternoon we had the usual
+    Saturday singing practice.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, November 12th</i>.&mdash;Another lovely day. We
+    had the Litany and hymns at eleven, evening service and sermon
+    at four.</p>
+
+    <p>Just before morning church some one turned on the water in
+    the nursery bath, and forgot to turn it off again, so that when
+    we came aft from the saloon we had the pleasure of finding
+    everything in the children's cabins afloat, and that a good
+    deal of water had got down into the hold. It was rather
+    annoying at the time, but, I dare say, like many other present
+    troubles, it was a good thing in the end. It obliged us, at any
+    rate, to have all the stores brought up on deck, and led to our
+    taking an inventory of our resources sooner than we should
+    otherwise have done. I am sorry to say we found that, owing to
+    the departure of our head steward and the illness of his
+    successor, they have not been husbanded as carefully as they
+    should have been, especially those provided for use forward.
+    Sailors are more like children than grown-up men, and require
+    as much looking after. While there is water in the tanks, for
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 200<a name="Page_200"
+       id="Page_200"></a></span>instance, they will use it in the
+       most extravagant manner, without thought for the morrow; and
+       they are quite as reckless with their other stores.</p>
+
+    <p>I find, however, that one of the drawbacks to taking a very
+    close personal interest in the housekeeping arrangements on
+    board is the too intimate acquaintance one makes with the
+    various individuals composing the live stock, the result being
+    that the private particular history of every chicken, duck,
+    turkey, and joint of mutton is apt to be remembered with a
+    damaging effect to appetite.</p>
+
+    <p>In the afternoon two boobies, the first birds we have seen
+    for some days, paid us a visit. I suppose we are too far out to
+    see anything more of our pretty little friends, the
+    petrels.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, November 13th</i>.&mdash;We had a regular
+    turn-out and re-arrangement of our stores to-day, and
+    discovered that the waste and mismanagement have been greater
+    even than we at first supposed. Fortunately, we found some
+    spare tins of provisions stowed away under the nursery floor
+    and forgotten, and which will now come in very opportunely. But
+    I fear that, even as it is, we may be seriously inconvenienced
+    before getting to the end of our voyage. Of the six sheep,
+    sixty chickens, thirty ducks, and four dozen pigeons, brought
+    on board alive at Valparaiso, we have comparatively few left,
+    and not a great deal to give those few to eat; so we must
+    depend mainly on our potted meats and vegetables, which happen
+    to be excellent. We often wonder how the earlier navigators got
+    on, when there were no such things as tinned provisions, and
+    when the facilities for carrying water were of the poorest
+    description, while they were often months and months at sea,
+    without an opportunity of replenishing their stores, and with
+    no steam-power to fall back upon in case they were becalmed.
+    Still more wonderful, in my opinion, is the successful manner
+    in which the Spaniards managed to convey their hordes in tiny
+    vessels, together with a <span class="pagenum">Page
+    201<a name="Page_201"
+       id="Page_201"></a></span>sufficient quantity of forage for
+       them, to the New World, where, according to all accounts,
+       they generally arrived in good condition, fit to go to work
+       or to war immediately.</p>
+
+    <p>The wind increased in the evening and blew dead aft. In the
+    middle of the night the mizen-halyards broke, and blocks and
+    all came down with a tremendous crash, which caused both Tom
+    and me to rush up on deck. About an hour and a half's work put
+    everything straight again, however, though it looked a sad mess
+    at first. We had been remarking at dinner how lucky we had
+    been, with all this rolling about in calms and running before
+    the wind, not to have had anything carried away or any of the
+    ropes chafed. Personally, I think the accident is not to be
+    regretted, for now all the fore and aft canvas is stowed, and
+    we are running under square canvas alone, which is much
+    steadier work, though we still roll considerably.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, November 14th</i>.&mdash;Fine, with a strong
+    fair wind. I have been laid up for a few days with a touch of
+    my old enemy, Syrian fever, but am gradually recovering, and
+    enjoy very much lying on deck and reading.</p>
+
+    <p>Our victualling arrangements have now been satisfactorily
+    settled, and everybody has been put on an allowance of water,
+    our supply of which will last the whole ship's company of forty
+    persons for five weeks, leaving one tank still in reserve in
+    case of accidents. As we expect to reach our destination in
+    about three weeks from the present time, we have therefore, I
+    hope, an ample supply for all our requirements.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, November 15th</i>.&mdash;Pleasant as we have
+    found life at sea in the South Pacific hitherto, it is, I fear,
+    monotonous to read about, and I dare say you will find it
+    difficult to realise how quickly the days fly past, and how
+    sorry we are when each one comes to an end. I am afraid they
+    are among those things which do not repeat themselves. At any
+    rate, they afford a golden opportunity for reading, such as we
+    are not likely to have again often, if ever, in
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 202<a name="Page_202"
+       id="Page_202"></a></span>our busy lives; and Tom and I are
+       endeavouring to make the best use of it by getting through
+       as many of the seven hundred volumes we brought with us as
+       possible. The weather favours us in our endeavours to be
+       industrious; for, while it is sufficiently warm to indispose
+       one for a very severe course of study, it has never been so
+       hot as to compel us to lie down and do nothing but gasp for
+       breath&mdash;which is what we were warned to expect. There
+       is indeed one slight drawback to the perfect enjoyment of
+       our present state of existence, and that is the incessant
+       motion of the vessel. When she rolls as quickly as she has
+       done to-day, it is difficult to settle down steadily to any
+       occupation, and at last one cannot help feeling aggravated
+       at the persistent manner in which everything, including
+       one's self, refuses to be still for a single instant.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, November 16th</i>.&mdash;To-day it is really
+    warm&mdash;not to say hot&mdash;with a bright cloudless sky,
+    which renders an awning acceptable. We saw some 'bo's'n' birds
+    for the first time, and more shoals of flying-fish. I wish a
+    few of the latter would come on board; they would be an
+    agreeable addition to our breakfast-table.</p>
+
+    <p>The rolling still continues, the wind being dead aft, and
+    nothing but our square canvas being set. The effect is rather
+    wearisome, and one longs to be able to say 'Catch hold of her
+    head and keep her still, if only for five minutes' peace and
+    quietness!' Cooking is difficult, and even eating is a
+    hazardous occupation; and at our evening game of cards we have
+    to pocket our counters and markers and hold on as best we
+    can.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, November 17th</i>.&mdash;At 8 a.m. the course was
+    altered, our fore-and-aft canvas was set again, and we were
+    once more gliding along swiftly and smoothly through the water,
+    to the great relief of every one on board. The day was lovely,
+    and though it was warm, a pleasant breeze throughout the ship
+    prevented our feeling uncomfortably hot.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 203<a name="Page_203"
+       id="Page_203"></a></span><i>Saturday, November
+       18th</i>.&mdash;The days are so much alike that it is
+       difficult to find anything special to say about them. They
+       fly so quickly that I was surprised to be reminded by the
+       usual singing-practice this afternoon that another week had
+       gone by.</p>
+
+    <p>The two green paroquets, 'Coco' and 'Meta,' given to me by
+    Mr. Fisher at Rosario, have turned out dear little pets, with
+    the most amusing ways. They are terrible thieves, especially of
+    sugar, pencils, pens, and paper, and being nearly always at
+    liberty, they follow me about just like dogs, and coax and
+    caress me with great affection. They do not care much for any
+    one else, though they are civil to all and good-tempered even
+    to the children, who, I am afraid, rather bore them with their
+    attempts at petting. The other foreign birds, of which I have a
+    large collection, are doing well, and I begin to hope I shall
+    get them home safely after all. We had at one time about twenty
+    parrots, belonging to the men, on board, all running about on
+    deck forward, with their wings clipped, but about half of them
+    have been lost overboard. The dogs keep their health and
+    spirits wonderfully. F&eacute;lise is quite young again, and
+    she and Lulu have great games, tearing up and down and around
+    the decks as hard as they can go.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, November 19th</i>.&mdash;I am convalescent at
+    last, and appeared at breakfast this morning for the first time
+    for ten days.</p>
+
+    <p>The wind was very variable throughout the day. Between 6 and
+    7 a.m. we were going twelve knots; between 7 and 8 only three;
+    but as we never stop, we manage to make up a fair average on
+    the whole.</p>
+
+    <p>At eleven o'clock we had the Communion Service and two
+    hymns. At midday the week's work was made up, with the
+    following result. Our position was in lat. 15&deg; 38' S.,
+    long. 117&deg; 52' W.; we were 3,057 miles from
+    Valparaiso,&mdash;1,335 of which had been accomplished since
+    last Sunday,&mdash;and 1,818 miles from Tahiti.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 204<a name="Page_204"
+       id="Page_204"></a></span>To-day we were not far from Easter
+       Island, the southernmost island of Polynesia. Here as in the
+       Ladrones, far away in the north-west quarter of the Pacific,
+       most curious inscriptions are sometimes found carved in
+       stone. Annexed is a photograph taken from one I saw at a
+       later stage of the voyage.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_219"
+             id="Illus_219"></a> <img src="images/t_219.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="107"
+             alt="Illustration: Inscription from Easter Island"
+             title="Illustration: Inscription from Easter Island" /><br />
+
+        <b>Inscription from Easter Island</b><br />
+        <a href="images/219.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The sails had been flapping, more or less, all day, and at
+    the change of the dog-watches, at six o'clock, Tom ordered the
+    men aft to stow the mizen. This they had scarcely begun to do
+    when a light breeze sprang up, and in a few minutes increased
+    to a strong one, before which we bowled along at the rate of
+    nine knots. These sudden changes are of constant occurrence,
+    and, coming as they do without the slightest warning, are quite
+    inexplicable. If only we had our old square sails, and our
+    bigger yards and topmast, we should have saved a good deal of
+    time already; for one or two knots an hour extra amount to from
+    25 to 50 miles a day, and in a month's run the difference would
+    not be far short of 1,500 miles. But we heard so much from
+    people in England, who had visited these parts, of squalls and
+    hurricanes, that Tom did not like to run the risk of being
+    over-sparred, especially with a wife and children as
+    passengers.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, November 20th</i>.&mdash;The fore-and-aft sails
+    were taken in, as they were doing no good and the square
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 205<a name="Page_205"
+       id="Page_205"></a></span>canvas was drawing. This allowed
+       the mizen-awning to be spread, making a pleasant place to
+       sit in and a capital playground for the children, who
+       scamper about all day long, and do not appear to feel the
+       heat a bit.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, November 21st</i>.&mdash;Certainly a <i>very</i>
+    hot day. We made steady progress under the same canvas as
+    yesterday.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, November 22nd</i>.&mdash;Between 2 and 3 a.m.
+    a nice breeze sprang up, and between 3 and 4.30 a.m. all the
+    fore-and-aft sails were again set. It was deliciously cool on
+    deck at that time; but the sun rose fierce and hot, and more or
+    less killed the breeze as the day wore on.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, November 23rd</i>.&mdash;Twenty-four days out.
+    We had hoped to reach Tahiti to-day, and Tom begins to regret
+    that he did not steam some distance out from Valparaiso, so as
+    to pick up the trades sooner. Still it is satisfactory to know
+    how well the 'Sunbeam' can and does sail against light contrary
+    winds, and to have an opportunity of developing some of her
+    good points, of which we were previously hardly aware. How she
+    manages to slip along as she does, four or five knots an hour,
+    with not sufficient wind to blow a candle out, is a marvel to
+    every one on board. More than once, when the hand-log has shown
+    that we were going five knots, I have carried a naked light
+    from one end of the deck to the other without its being
+    extinguished.</p>
+
+    <p>The sunrise was magnificent, and a splendid albatross, the
+    largest we have yet seen, was at the same time visible in
+    mid-air, floating against the rose-coloured clouds. He looked
+    so grand, and calm, and majestic, that one could almost fancy
+    him the bird of Jove himself, descending direct from the sun.
+    Where do these birds rest? How far and how fast do they really
+    fly? are questions for the naturalist. We have seen them many
+    times at a distance of at least two thousand miles from the
+    nearest land.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 206<a name="Page_206"
+       id="Page_206"></a></span>About nine o'clock there was a
+       slight breeze, but it fell as the sun rose, and the day was
+       intensely hot.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, November 24th</i>.&mdash;A fine breeze in the
+    early morning, which, however, gradually died away. Having now
+    quitted the regular track of the trade winds and got into the
+    variables, we lighted fires at two o'clock. Then another light
+    breeze sprang up for a few minutes, only to fall away again
+    immediately, and at six o'clock we commenced to steam.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, November 25th</i>.&mdash;A very wet morning,
+    the sky clearing at about ten, but the weather remaining dull,
+    heavy, hot, and oppressive, throughout the day. But we were
+    making good progress under steam, which rendered the state of
+    things more endurable than it would otherwise have been.</p>
+
+    <p>Whilst I was standing on deck at night a flying-fish flew
+    against my throat and hung there, caught in the lace of my
+    dress. He is a pretty specimen, but only his wings are to be
+    preserved, for Muriel will have his body for breakfast
+    to-morrow.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, November 26th</i>.&mdash;Our fourth consecutive
+    Sunday at sea, and out of sight of land. At 4 a.m. the sails
+    were spread to a good breeze. At 7 we stopped steaming, but at
+    10 the wind again fell light. The Litany was read on deck this
+    morning on account of the heat. The observations at noon showed
+    that we were in lat. 15&deg; 47' S., long. 135&deg; 20' W., the
+    distance accomplished during the last twenty-four hours being
+    181 miles. We have now made good 4,067 miles from Valparaiso,
+    and are 815 miles distant from Tahiti. At 5 p.m. we had prayers
+    and a sermon, also on deck. It was then almost calm, and at
+    eight o'clock we again began steaming, in order to insure our
+    making the island of Tatakotoroa, 200 miles off, before dark
+    to-morrow.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, November 27th</i>.&mdash;I was on deck at 3.30
+    a.m. Everybody on board was more or less excited at the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 207<a name="Page_207"
+       id="Page_207"></a></span>prospect of making land, after
+       twenty-eight days at sea. It was a delicious morning, with a
+       favourable breeze, and under steam and sail we progressed at
+       the rate of from 10 to 11-1/2 knots an hour. Several birds
+       flew on board, amongst whom were two boobies, who hovered
+       round us and appeared to examine everything with great
+       curiosity, especially the little wind-vanes at the extremity
+       of the masts. At last they settled on the foretopmast,
+       whereupon one of the sailors went up to try and catch them.
+       They observed his movements closely, and appeared to be
+       specially interested in his cap; but as he approached, first
+       one and then the other flew away for a few yards, and then
+       returned to his former position. At last the man, watching
+       his opportunity, managed to seize one of them by his legs
+       and bring him down in triumph, despite flapping wings and
+       pecks from a sharp beak. He was shut up in the
+       fowl-pen&mdash;now, alas, empty of its proper
+       denizens&mdash;where we had an opportunity of examining him
+       before he was killed. He was a fine, handsome, grey bird,
+       with large blue eyes, and a wild hawk-like look.</p>
+
+    <p>At one o'clock we were almost sailing over the spot marked
+    by Findlay as the situation of Tatakotopoto, or Anonymous
+    Island; but there was nothing whatever visible in the shape of
+    land, even from the masthead, where a man was stationed, and
+    from which it was possible to see a distance of ten or fifteen
+    miles. Tom went up himself several times and scanned the
+    horizon carefully, but in vain. It is therefore evident either
+    that the position of the island is incorrectly stated, or that
+    it has become submerged. I believe that in these seas there are
+    many islands marked that have no existence, and that several
+    that do exist are not marked, which renders it necessary to
+    keep a constant good look-out. What a charming task it would be
+    thoroughly to survey these parts, and to correct the present
+    charts where necessary, and how much I should like to be one of
+    the officers appointed for the service!</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_223"
+             id="Illus_223"></a> <img src="images/t_223.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="170"
+             alt="Illustration: Tatakotoroa or Clarke Island"
+             title="Illustration: Tatakotoroa or Clarke Island" /><br />
+        <b>Tatakotoroa or Clarke Island</b><br />
+        <a href="images/223.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 208<a name="Page_208"
+       id="Page_208"></a></span></p>
+
+    <div class="figright">
+        <a name="Illus_224"
+             id="Illus_224"></a> <img src="images/t_224-1.gif"
+             width="160"
+             height="400"
+             alt="Illustration: Going up the Mast in a Chair"
+             title="Illustration: Going up the Mast in a Chair" /><br />
+        <b>Going up the Mast in a Chair</b><br />
+        <a href="images/224-1.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>At 1.30 p.m. land was sighted from the mast-head, and at two
+    o'clock I saw from the deck what looked like plumes of dark
+    ostrich feathers rising from the sea. This was the island of
+    Tatakotoroa&mdash;also known as Narcissus, or Clarke
+    Island&mdash;to the eastward of the Paumotu or Low Archipelago
+    of the South Seas. The sailing directions describe the
+    inhabitants as 'hostile,' and Sir Edward Belcher mentions that
+    some of them tried to cut off the boats sent from a man-of-war
+    for water. We were therefore afraid to attempt a landing, but
+    sailed as near as we could to the shore, which, surrounded by a
+    rampart of snow-white coral, and clothed almost to the water's
+    edge with feathery palms, cocoa-nut trees, and luxuriant
+    vegetation of various kinds, looked very tempting. A few canoes
+    were drawn up on the beach near a large hut, out of which three
+    or four natives came, and, having looked at us for some time,
+    ran off into the woods. Blue smoke could be seen curling up
+    from several points of the forest, no doubt indicating the
+    presence of more natives, whose dwellings were concealed by the
+    trees.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 209<a name="Page_209"
+       id="Page_209"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>After lunch, Tom had me hoisted up to the foretopmast-head
+    in a 'boatswain's chair,' which is simply a small plank,
+    suspended by ropes at the four corners, and used by the men to
+    sit on when they scrape the masts. I was very carefully secured
+    with a rope tied round my petticoats, and, knocking against the
+    various ropes on my way, was then gently hoisted up to what
+    seemed at first a giddy height; but when once I got accustomed
+    to the smallness of the seat, the airiness of my perch, and the
+    increased roll of the vessel, I found my position by no means
+    an unpleasant one. Tom climbed up the rigging and joined me
+    shortly afterwards. From our elevated post we could see plainly
+    the formation of the island, and the lagoon in the centre,
+    encircled by a band of coral, in some places white, bare, and
+    narrow, in others wide and covered with palm-trees and rich
+    vegetation; it was moreover <span class="pagenum">Page
+    210<a name="Page_210"
+       id="Page_210"></a></span>possible to understand better the
+       theory of the formation of these coral islands. I was so
+       happy up aloft that I did not care to descend; and it was
+       almost as interesting to observe what a strange and
+       disproportioned appearance everything and everybody on board
+       the yacht presented from my novel position, as it was to
+       examine the island we were passing. The two younger children
+       and the dogs took the greatest interest in my a&euml;rial
+       expedition, and never ceased calling to me and barking,
+       until I was once more let down safely into their midst. As
+       soon as we had seen all we could of the island, fires were
+       banked, and we proceeded under sail alone throughout the
+       evening and night.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_225"
+             id="Illus_225"></a> <img src="images/t_224-2.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="180"
+             alt="Illustration: Children looking up"
+             title="Illustration: Children looking up" /><br />
+        <b>Children looking up</b><br />
+        <a href="images/224-2.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 211<a name="Page_211"
+       id="Page_211"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XIII"
+       id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>And all throughout the air there reigned the
+            sense</i><br /></span> <span><i>Of waking dream with
+            luscious thoughts o'erladen</i>,<br /></span>
+            <span><i>Of joy too conscious made and too
+            intense</i><br /></span> <span><i>By the swift advent
+            of excessive Aiden</i>,<br /></span>
+            <span><i>Bewilderment of beauty's
+            affluence</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, November 28th</i>.&mdash;We passed Anaa, or
+    Chain Island, in the morning watch, before daybreak. I came on
+    deck to try and get a glimpse of it, and was rewarded by a
+    glorious sunrise. We had a nice eight-knot breeze and a strong
+    current in our favour, and just before breakfast Tom descried
+    from the masthead Amanu, or M&ouml;ller Island, which we had
+    hardly expected to make before ten or eleven o'clock. Some one
+    remarked that it seemed almost as if it had come out to meet
+    us. The reef encircling this island varies much in height and
+    vegetation. In some places it supports a noble grove of trees,
+    in others the sea breaks over the half-submerged coral-bed, the
+    first obstacle it has met for 4,000 miles, with a roar like
+    thunder.</p>
+
+    <p>Before we had lost sight of Amanu, the island of Hao Harpe,
+    or Bow Island, was visible on our port bow. I wished very much
+    to land, and at last persuaded Tom, who was rather anxious on
+    the score of the natives, to allow some of us to make the
+    attempt, us cautioning to turn away from the shore directly, in
+    case the islanders looked at all doubtful in their attitude and
+    intentions. After lunch, therefore, we hove to, and the gig's
+    crew were <span class="pagenum">Page 212<a name="Page_212"
+       id="Page_212"></a></span>ordered to arm themselves with
+       revolvers and rifles, which they were not to show unless
+       required to do so. All the gentlemen had revolvers, and
+       Mabelle and I were also provided with two small ones,
+       Phillips and Muriel being the only unarmed members of the
+       party. I took a bag full of beads, knives, looking-glasses,
+       and pictures, for barter and presents, and with these
+       preparations we set off to make our first personal
+       acquaintance with the islanders of the South Pacific. Tom
+       gave us a tow to windward, and we then rowed direct to a
+       point on one side of the entrance to the lagoon, where we
+       saw some natives waving something white. As we approached we
+       could distinguish several figures standing on the point,
+       under the shade of some cocoa-nut trees, and on the opposite
+       side of the entrance some canoes were drawn up on the beach,
+       by the side of a hut, close to a large clump of low trees.
+       We were by this time surrounded by breakers, and it required
+       no little skill to steer the boat safely through the broken
+       water, between the race of the tide on one side, and the
+       overfall from the coral reef on the other. It was
+       successfully done, however, and, having rounded the point,
+       we found ourselves at once in the waters of the tranquil
+       lagoon. We should have preferred to land at the point, had
+       it been possible, as it was doubtful whether it would be
+       safe to go round the corner, and so lose sight of the yacht;
+       but the intentions of the natives seemed peaceable, several
+       of them running into the water up to their waists to meet
+       us, while others could be seen hurrying along the beach, the
+       women carrying what looked like bunches of fruit.</p>
+
+    <p>It is really impossible to describe the beauty of the scene
+    before us. Submarine coral forests, of every colour, studded
+    with sea-flowers, anemones, and echinid&aelig;, of a brilliancy
+    only to be seen in dreamland, shoals of the brightest and
+    swiftest fish darting and flashing in and out; shells, everyone
+    of which was fit to hold the place of honour in a
+    conchologist's collection, moving slowly along
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 213<a name="Page_213"
+       id="Page_213"></a></span> with their living inmates: this is
+       what we saw when we looked down, from the side of the boat,
+       into the depths below. The surface of the water glittered
+       with every imaginable tint, from the palest aquamarine to
+       the brightest emerald, from the pure light blue of the
+       turquoise to the deep dark blue of the sapphire, and was
+       dotted here and there with patches of red, brown, and green
+       coral, rising from the mass below. Before us, on the shore,
+       there spread the rich growth of tropical vegetation, shaded
+       by palms and cocoa-nuts, and enlivened by the presence of
+       native women in red, blue, and green garments, and men in
+       motley costumes, bringing fish, fowls, and bunches of
+       cocoa-nuts, borne, like the grapes brought back from the
+       land of Canaan by the spies, on poles.</p>
+
+    <p>As soon as we touched the shore the men rushed forward to
+    meet us, and to shake hands, and, having left the muskets and
+    revolvers judiciously out of sight in the boat, we were
+    conducted to a cluster of huts, made of branches, or rather
+    leaves, of the palm-tree, tied by their foot-stalks across two
+    poles, and hanging down to the ground. Here we were met by the
+    women and children, who, likewise, all went through the
+    ceremony of shaking hands with us, after which the head-woman,
+    who was very good-looking, and was dressed in a cherry-coloured
+    calico gown, with two long plaits of black hair hanging down
+    her back, spread a mat for me to sit upon just outside the hut.
+    By this time there was quite a little crowd of people assembled
+    round, amongst whom I noticed one woman with a baby, who had
+    her hair sticking straight out all round her head, and another
+    who held a portion of her dress constantly before her face.
+    After the gentlemen had walked away she removed the cloth, and
+    I then saw that her nose had been cut off. Most of the women
+    were good-looking, with dark complexions and quantities of
+    well-greased, neatly-plaited black hair, but we did not see a
+    single young girl, though there were plenty of children and
+    babies, and lots of boys, <span class="pagenum">Page
+    214<a name="Page_214"
+       id="Page_214"></a></span>the latter of whom, like some of
+       the older women, had only a piece of palm matting round
+       their loins. We therefore came to the conclusion that the
+       girls must have been sent away intentionally when the
+       approach of the yacht was observed.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_229"
+             id="Illus_229"></a> <img src="images/t_229.jpg"
+             width="229"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Our First Landing in the South Pacific, Hao or Bow Island"
+             title="Illustration: Our First Landing in the South Pacific, Hao or Bow Island" />
+        <br />
+        <b>Our First Landing in the South Pacific, Hao or Bow
+        Island</b><br />
+        <a href="images/229.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>As soon as I was seated, the head-woman told one of the men
+    to knock down some cocoa-nuts from the trees close by, and
+    after cutting off the ends she offered us a drink of the fresh
+    cool milk, which was all the sweeter and better for the fact
+    that the nuts were not nearly ripe. While this was going on,
+    the natives brought piles of cocoa-nuts, fish, and fowls, and
+    laid them at our feet as a present. Some of the fish were of a
+    dark brown colour, like bream, others were long and thin, with
+    a pipe-like nose and four fins, somewhat resembling the wings
+    of a flying-fish. <span class="pagenum">Page
+    215<a name="Page_215"
+       id="Page_215"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>Seeing smoke in the distance, rising from under some high
+    palm-trees, we thought we should like to go and see whence it
+    proceeded, and accordingly set off to walk through a sort of
+    bush, over sharp coral that cut one's boots terribly, the sun
+    blazing down upon us fiercely all the time, until we reached a
+    little settlement, consisting of several huts, the inhabitants
+    of which were absent. Fine plaited mats for beds, cocoa-nut
+    shells for cups, mother-of-pearl shells for plates, and coral,
+    of various kinds and shapes, for dishes and cooking utensils,
+    formed their only furniture. We saw three women, one very old,
+    with nothing but a palm-leaf mat as a covering, the others
+    dressed in the apparently universal costume, consisting of a
+    long bright-coloured gown, put into a yoke at the shoulders,
+    and flowing thence loosely to the ground, which completely
+    conceals the wearer's form, even to the tips of her toes. I
+    think these dresses must come from England or America, for they
+    are evidently machine-made, and the cotton-stuft of which they
+    are composed has the most extraordinary patterns printed on it
+    I ever saw. Cherry and white, dark blue and yellow or white
+    stripes, red with yellow spots, and blue with yellow crosses,
+    appear to be the favourite designs. The women seemed gentle and
+    kind, and were delighted with some beads, looking-glasses, and
+    knives I gave them, in return for which they brought us
+    quantities of beautiful shells.</p>
+
+    <p>We saw the large iron knee of a vessel in one spot during
+    our walk, and wondered how it came there. In another place we
+    saw a canoe in process of construction, ingeniously made of
+    boards, sewed together with plaited palm-leaves. The canoes in
+    use here are very high, long, and narrow, and are only kept
+    from upsetting by means of a tremendous outrigger, consisting
+    of a log fastened to the extremity of two bent pieces of wood,
+    projecting sideways from each end of the boat. The only animals
+    we met with in our ramble were four pigs and a few chickens,
+    and no other <span class="pagenum">Page 216<a name="Page_216"
+       id="Page_216"></a></span>live stock of any kind was visible.
+       No attempt seemed to be made at the cultivation of the
+       ground; and I think, if there had been, we must have
+       observed it, for our party separated and walked a good
+       distance in various directions.</p>
+
+    <p>The natives made us understand that on the other side of the
+    entrance to the lagoon, in the better sort of house we had
+    noticed, there resided a white man. He did not, however, make
+    his appearance during our visit, and I imagine he must have
+    been one of those individuals called 'beach-combers,' referred
+    to in so many of the books that treat of the South Sea
+    Islands,&mdash;a sort of ne'er-do-well Englishman or American,
+    rather afraid of meeting any of his own countrymen, but very
+    clever at making a bargain between a ship's crew and the
+    natives, with considerable profit to himself.</p>
+
+    <p>Among the bushes we found numbers of large hermit-crabs,
+    crawling, or rather running, about in whelk shells, half a
+    dozen of them occasionally having a grand fight amongst
+    themselves. We picked up at least twenty different sorts of
+    gracefully shaped pieces of coral, and quantities of shells of
+    an infinite variety of form and colour; cowries, helmet-shells,
+    the shells from which cameos are sometimes cut; mother-of-pearl
+    shells, and a large spiral univalve, nearly a foot long, with
+    dark brown spots and stripes on a delicate cream-coloured
+    ground, like the skin of a tiger or leopard. On our way back to
+    the huts we peeped into several of the canoes drawn up on the
+    beach, in which were some fish-spears and a fish-hook, nearly
+    three inches long, made of solid mother-of-pearl, the natural
+    curve of the shell from which it was cut being preserved. A
+    piece of bone was securely fastened to it by means of some
+    pig's hair, but there was no bait, and it seems that the
+    glitter of the mother-of-pearl alone serves as a sufficient
+    allurement to the fish.</p>
+
+    <p>In nearly all accounts of voyages in the South Seas much
+    space is devoted to the description of the purchase,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 217<a name="Page_217"
+       id="Page_217"></a></span> or rather barter, of hogs. We
+       thought we could not do better than follow as far as
+       possible the example of our predecessors, and accordingly
+       bought two little pigs for two shillings each. They were
+       evidently quite pets, lying on the mats outside the huts,
+       and coming when called, just like dogs. The one I first
+       bought appeared to be quite happy and content to be carried
+       under my arm. The natives seemed quite to understand the
+       value of money, and did not hesitate to ask for it in return
+       for the cocoa-nuts full of shells which they brought us. I
+       fancy some of the Tahiti schooners trade here for pearl,
+       shells, and b&ecirc;che-de-mer.</p>
+
+    <p>The cocoa-nuts, fowls, fish, coral, &amp;c., having been put
+    into our boat, we shook hands with the friendly islanders and
+    embarked, and having rounded the point we soon found ourselves
+    again in the broken water outside the lagoon, where the race of
+    the tide and the overfall were now much more violent than they
+    had been when we landed. If we had once been drawn into the
+    current, we should have stood a good chance of being knocked to
+    pieces on the coral reefs, strong as our boat was; but the
+    danger was happily avoided, and we reached the yacht safely,
+    much to Tom's relief.</p>
+
+    <p>The natives did not exhibit the slightest curiosity about us
+    during our visit to the island, and though they received us
+    with courtesy, and assisted us as far as they could on our
+    arrival and departure, they did not follow us about while on
+    shore, nor, with the exception of one or two of them, did they
+    take the trouble to walk across the point to see us get into
+    the open sea and join the yacht. In this respect they might
+    have given a lesson to many civilised people, so gentle,
+    genial, and graceful, yet dignified, were their manners.</p>
+
+    <p>The screw having been feathered and the sails set, our
+    voyage was at once resumed. A few miles from where we had
+    landed, we saw, high and dry on the coral reef skirting the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 218<a name="Page_218"
+       id="Page_218"></a></span>island, a large square-built
+       schooner, of about 500 tons, her masts gone, her hull
+       bleached white by the sun, and a great hole in her side. She
+       was on the inside of the reef, and must therefore either
+       have drifted there from the lagoon, or else have been lifted
+       bodily across by one of the big Pacific rollers, in some
+       terrible storm. No doubt the iron knee we had seen on the
+       island originally formed part of this vessel.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, November 29th</i>.&mdash;We seem to have got
+    into the real south-east trades, just as the chart tells us we
+    ought to expect to lose them; for there was a strong fair
+    breeze all day, which made it very pleasant on deck in the
+    shade of the sails. But it was exceedingly hot in the saloon,
+    where some of the woodwork has been pulled down, in order to
+    secure better ventilation for the galley and the berths of some
+    of the men, who, I hope, appreciate the alteration, for it is a
+    source of considerable discomfort to us.</p>
+
+    <p>We had the bigger of our two little pigs for dinner to-day,
+    and a welcome change it was from the salt and potted meats. He
+    was most excellent, and fully corroborated Captain Cook's
+    statement as to the superiority of South Sea Island pork to any
+    other&mdash;a fact which is doubtless due to the pigs being fed
+    entirely on cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. Still it seemed a pity
+    to eat such a tame creature, and I mean to try and preserve the
+    other one's life, unless we are much longer than we expect in
+    reaching Tahiti. He is only about ten inches long, but looks at
+    least a hundred years old, and is altogether the most quaint,
+    old-fashioned little object you ever saw. He has taken a great
+    fancy to the dogs, and trots about after me with them
+    everywhere, on the tips of his little toes, even up and down
+    the steep cabin stairs. I call him Agag, because he walks so
+    delicately, whilst others accost him as Beau, not only on
+    account of his elegant manners, but as being the name of his
+    former home.</p>
+
+    <p>The moon was more brilliant this evening than we have yet
+    seen her during our voyage, and we could enjoy sitting
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 219<a name="Page_219"
+       id="Page_219"></a></span> on deck reading, and even doing
+       some coarse needlework, without any other light. One
+       splendid meteor flashed across the sky. It was of a light
+       orange colour, with a fiery tail about two degrees in
+       extent, and described in its course an arc of about sixty
+       degrees, from S.S.E. to N.N.W., before it disappeared into
+       space, far above the horizon. If the night had been darker,
+       the spectacle would have been finer; but even as it was, the
+       moon seemed quite paled for a few minutes afterwards. We
+       have seen many meteors, falling-stars, and shooting-stars
+       since we left Valparaiso, but none so fine as the one this
+       evening.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, December 1st</i>.&mdash;The sun rose grandly, but
+    the heavy black and red clouds, looking like flames and smoke
+    from a furnace, gave promise of more rain. The heat was greater
+    to-day than any we have yet felt; and it is now nearly
+    mid-winter at home.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_235"
+             id="Illus_235"></a> <img src="images/t_235.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="164"
+             alt="Illustration: Maitea"
+             title="Illustration: Maitea" /><br />
+        <b>Maitea</b><br />
+        <a href="images/235.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>At 5 a.m. we made the island of Maitea, and expected to
+    reach it in about an hour and a half; but the wind fell light,
+    and it was a quarter to ten before we got into the gig and set
+    out for the shore. There are not many instructions about
+    landing, either in Captain Cook or Findlay, but the latter
+    mentions that houses are to be found on the south side of the
+    island. We thought, however, we could distinguish from the
+    yacht a little cove, close to some huts, at another part of the
+    shore, where the surf did not break so heavily. We accordingly
+    rowed straight for it, and as we approached we could see the
+    natives coming down from all parts to meet us, the women
+    dressed in the same sort of long, bright, flowing garments we
+    had seen at Hao Harpe, with the addition of garlands round
+    their necks and heads, the men wearing gay-coloured
+    loin-cloths, shirts of Manchester cotton stuff, flying loose in
+    the wind, and sailors' hats with garlands round them, or
+    coloured silk handkerchiefs&mdash;red and orange evidently
+    having the preference&mdash;tied over their heads and jauntily
+    knotted on one side. <span class="pagenum">Page
+    220<a name="Page_220"
+       id="Page_220"></a></span>Several of the men waded out into
+       the surf to meet us, sometimes standing on a rock two feet
+       above the water, sometimes buried up to their necks by a
+       sudden wave. But the rocks were sharp, the only available
+       passage was narrow, and the rollers long and high; and
+       altogether it looked, upon a closer inspection, too
+       unpromising a place to attempt a landing. Much to the
+       disappointment of the natives, therefore, we decided to go
+       round and try the other side of the island. Seeing us
+       prepare to depart, the people on shore immediately launched
+       a tiny canoe, with an enormous outrigger, and a man dressed
+       in a pale green shirt, dark blue and yellow under garment,
+       and with a silk handkerchief and garland on his head, came
+       alongside and made signs that he would take us ashore one by
+       one in his frail-looking craft. But the heavy Pacific
+       rollers and the sharp rocks daunted us, and we declined his
+       offer with thanks, and rowed off to the southward. Anything
+       more enticing than the cove we were quitting can hardly be
+       imagined. A fringe of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit trees,
+       overhanging an undergrowth of bright glossy foliage and
+       flowers, a few half-hidden palm-leaf covered huts, from one
+       of which&mdash;I <span class="pagenum">Page
+       221<a name="Page_221"
+       id="Page_221"></a></span>suppose the chief's&mdash;a
+       tattered Tahitian flag floated in the breeze, a small
+       schooner drawn up among the trees and carefully covered with
+       mats, the steep sugar-loaf point, at the entrance to the
+       cove, clothed to its summit with grass and vegetation: these
+       were the objects which attracted our attention in our
+       hurried survey of the scene.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_236"
+             id="Illus_236"></a> <img src="images/t_236.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="180"
+             alt="Illustration: Our Boatman"
+             title="Illustration: Our Boatman" /><br />
+        <b>Our Boatman</b><br />
+        <a href="images/236.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We had to give the island a wide berth in rowing round it,
+    on account of the heavy rollers, which seemed to come from
+    every side, breaking in surf against the dark brown cliffs, and
+    throwing columns of white spray, from which the brilliant
+    sunshine was reflected in rainbow hues, high into the air. As
+    we proceeded matters looked worse and worse, and the motion of
+    the boat became so disagreeable that both Muriel and I were
+    very ill. At last we came to a spot where we could see some
+    people sitting on the shore, and several others, who had
+    probably come over from the other side to meet us, running
+    swiftly down the sides of the cliffs to the beach. The island
+    was of a different character from the one we had already
+    visited, and was evidently of volcanic origin. No coral was
+    anywhere to be seen, but there <span class="pagenum">Page
+    222<a name="Page_222"
+       id="Page_222"></a></span>were big rocks jutting out at
+       intervals into the sea all round it, one of which seemed
+       large enough to afford us a sort of shelter in landing. The
+       natives waved and pointed towards the channel beyond this
+       rock, and one or two swam out to meet us; but we soon found
+       that the channel would not be wide enough to admit our big
+       boat, though it was no doubt sufficient for a light canoe,
+       drawing some two inches of water. We therefore reluctantly
+       turned away and resumed our uneasy coasting voyage, in the
+       course of which we passed some nearly leafless trees, full
+       of white patches, too large for flowers, which afterwards
+       turned out to be booby-birds, who here find a resting-place.
+       They are so numerous that it is hardly possible to walk
+       beneath the trees without treading on their eggs.</p>
+
+    <p>Having completed the circuit of the island, we found
+    ourselves once more opposite the spot where we had first
+    thought of landing, and the tide being by this time a little
+    higher, we decided to make another attempt. Some of the
+    natives, seeing us approach, plunged into the water as before,
+    and seized the gunwale of the boat, while others, on shore,
+    brought down rollers to put beneath our keel. We went in on the
+    top of a big wave, and thus at last found ourselves&mdash;boat
+    and all&mdash;high and dry on the beach of Maitea.</p>
+
+    <p>The people came down to meet us, and conducted us to the
+    house of the chief, who, with his pretty wife, received us
+    kindly, but with much gravity and dignity. Mats were placed for
+    me to sit upon, wreaths were offered me for my head and neck,
+    and cocoa-nut milk to drink. We wished for some bananas, and
+    they immediately cut down a tree in order to obtain a bunch.
+    Cocoa-nuts were at the same time thrown down from the trees,
+    and a collection of fruit, poultry, and meat&mdash;the latter
+    consisting of the immemorial hog&mdash;was laid at our feet, as
+    a present from the chief. The rest of the natives brought us
+    pearls, shells, mother-of-pearl, small canoes, fish-hooks,
+    young boobies, and all sorts <span class="pagenum">Page
+    223<a name="Page_223"
+       id="Page_223"></a></span>of things, for barter; but the
+       chief himself refused any return for his gift. Perhaps the
+       greatest curiosity they offered us was about six fathoms of
+       fine twine, made from human hair. Before these islands were
+       visited by Europeans, this was the material from which
+       fishing-lines were made; but it is now rarely used, and is
+       consequently very difficult to procure. The young boobies
+       they brought us looked just like a white powder-puff, and
+       were covered with down far thicker and softer than any
+       swan's down I ever saw.</p>
+
+    <p>The natives seemed quite <i>au fait</i> in the matter of
+    monetary transactions and exchanges. For an English sovereign
+    they would give you change at the rate of five dollars. Chilian
+    or United States' dollars they accepted readily, but Brazilian
+    currency they would not look at. They were pleased with knives,
+    beads, looking-glasses, and picture papers I had brought on
+    shore, and we did a brisk trade. We experienced great
+    difficulty in explaining to them that we wanted some fresh
+    eggs, Muriel's especial fancy, and a luxury which we have been
+    without for some time. At last, by pointing to the fowls and
+    picking up some small egg-shaped stones, we managed to procure
+    a few, though, from the time it took to collect them, I should
+    think the island must have been scoured in the search for
+    them.</p>
+
+    <p>Most of the natives seemed puzzled to comprehend why we had
+    visited the island at all. 'No sell brandy?'&mdash;'No.' 'No
+    stealy men?'&mdash;'No.' 'No do what then?' Their knowledge of
+    English was too limited to enable us to make them understand
+    that we were only making a voyage of circumnavigation in a
+    yacht.</p>
+
+    <p>It was now time to bid farewell to our amiable hosts and
+    their beautiful island. As we reached the landing-place, a
+    small schooner, which we had previously noticed in the
+    distance, came close to the shore, and a canoe put off from the
+    island to meet it. We found that the vessel was bringing back
+    from Tahiti and other places some of the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 224<a name="Page_224"
+       id="Page_224"></a></span>inhabitants of the island, who had
+       been away on a visit or in search of work. The meeting of
+       the reunited friends and relatives was in some cases quite
+       touching. Two women, in particular, sat and embraced each
+       other for nearly a quarter of an hour, without moving, but
+       with tears running down their faces.</p>
+
+    <p>All our gifts and purchases having been placed in the boat,
+    and one or two of us having embarked, she was shoved out over
+    the wooden rollers into the narrow channel, where she lay-to
+    while the rest of the party were brought alongside, one by one,
+    in a frail canoe&mdash;an operation which occupied some time,
+    during which we had leisure once more to admire the little bay
+    I have already attempted to describe. We asked the captain of
+    the schooner, who spoke French, to give us a tow off to the
+    yacht, which he willingly consented to do, chatting cheerfully
+    all the time, but evidently fearful of approaching too close to
+    the yacht, and positively refusing our invitation to him to
+    come on board. There can be little doubt that he mistrusted our
+    intentions, and feared we might attempt to kidnap him and his
+    crew; for the whites have, in too many cases, behaved in a most
+    villanous manner to the inhabitants of these islands, who are,
+    as a rule&mdash;to which there are of course exceptions&mdash;a
+    kind and gentle people. I think if the many instances of the
+    murder of ships' and boats' crews could be thoroughly sifted to
+    the bottom, it would be found that most of them were acts of
+    reprisal and revenge for brutal atrocities committed on the
+    defenceless natives, who have been kidnapped, plundered, and
+    murdered by unscrupulous traders and adventurers.
+    Unfortunately, the good suffer for the bad, and such lives as
+    those of Captain Goodenough and Bishop Patteson are sacrificed
+    through the unpardonable misconduct of others&mdash;perhaps
+    their own countrymen. It is still quite a chance how you may be
+    received in some of the islands; for if the visit of the last
+    ship was the occasion of the murder, plunder, and
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 225<a name="Page_225"
+       id="Page_225"></a></span> ill-treatment of the inhabitants,
+       it is not to be wondered at that the next comers should be
+       received with distrust, if not with treachery and
+       violence.</p>
+
+    <p>We reached the yacht at four o'clock, rather exhausted by so
+    many hours' exposure to the broiling sun, having had nothing to
+    eat since breakfast, at 7 a.m., except cocoa-nuts and bananas.
+    The ship was put about, the sails filled, and, continuing
+    steadily on our course throughout the evening, we made the
+    smaller of the two peninsulas that form the island of Tahiti at
+    10.30 p.m.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, December 2nd</i>. We were dodging on and off
+    all night, and at daybreak the weather was thick and rainy. At
+    4.30 a.m. we made the land again, and crept slowly along it,
+    past Point Venus and the lighthouse in Matavai Bay (Captain
+    Cook's first anchorage), until we were off the harbour of
+    Papeete<a name="FNanchor_8_8"
+       id="FNanchor_8_8">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_8_8"
+       class="fnanchor">[8]</a> The rain was now descending in
+       torrents, and we lay-to outside the reef for a short time,
+       until a French pilot came on board and took us in through
+       the narrow entrance. It was curious, while we were tumbling
+       about in the rough sea outside, to see the natives placidly
+       fishing in the tiniest of canoes on the lagoon inside the
+       reef, the waves beating all the time furiously on the outer
+       surface of the coral breakwater, as if anxious to seize and
+       engulf them.</p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_8_8"
+           id="Footnote_8_8"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a>
+           'Papiete' or 'Papeete,' <i>a bag of water</i>.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>At nine o'clock we were safely anchored in the chief port of
+    the island of Tahiti.</p>
+
+    <p>Perhaps I cannot better bring this account of our long
+    voyage from Valparaiso to a conclusion than by a quotation from
+    a charming book, given to me at Rio, which I have lately been
+    reading Baron de Hubner's 'Promenade autour du
+    Monde:'&mdash;'Les jours se suivent et se ressemblent. Sauf le
+    court &eacute;pisode du mauvais temps, ces trois semaines me
+    font l'effet d'un charmant r&ecirc;ve, d'un conte de
+    f&eacute;e, d'une promenade imaginaire &agrave; travers une
+    salle immense, tout or et lapis-lazuli. Pas un moment d'ennui
+    ou d'impatience. <span class="pagenum">Page
+    226<a name="Page_226"
+       id="Page_226"></a></span>Si vous voulez abr&eacute;ger les
+       longueurs d'une grande travers&eacute;e, distribuez bien
+       votre temps, et observez le r&egrave;glement que vous vous
+       &ecirc;tes impos&eacute;. C'est un moyen s&ucirc;r de se
+       faire promptement &agrave; la vie claustrale et m&ecirc;me
+       d'en jouir.'</p>
+
+    <p>We have been five weeks at sea, and have enjoyed them quite
+    as much as the Baron did his three. We saw but two ships
+    between Valparaiso and Tatakotoroa: he saw only one between San
+    Francisco and Yokohama. It is indeed a vast and lonely ocean
+    that we have traversed.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_241"
+             id="Illus_241"></a> <img src="images/t_241.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="118"
+             alt="Illustration: Quarantine Island, Papeete"
+             title="Illustration: Quarantine Island, Papeete" /><br />
+        <b>Quarantine Island, Papeete</b><br />
+        <a href="images/241.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 227<a name="Page_227"
+       id="Page_227"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XIV"
+       id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">AT TAHITI.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>The cava feast, the yam, the cocoa's
+            root</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Which bears at once the
+            cup, and milk, and fruit</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>The
+            bread-tree which, without the ploughshare,
+            yields</i><br /></span> <span><i>The unreap'd harvest
+            of unfurrowed fields</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span class="i4">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;<br />
+            </span>
+        </div>
+
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>These, with the luxuries of seas and
+            woods</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>The airy joys of
+            social solitudes</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Tamed each
+            rude wanderer</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_242"
+             id="Illus_242"></a> <img src="images/t_242.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="238"
+             alt="Illustration: Under the Trees, Papeete"
+             title="Illustration: Under the Trees, Papeete" /><br />
+        <b>Under the Trees, Papeete</b><br />
+        <a href="images/242.gif">View full size
+        illustration.</a><br />
+        &nbsp;
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, December 2nd</i>.&mdash;The anchor was dropped
+    in the harbour of Papeete at nine o'clock, and a couple of
+    hours later, by which time the weather had cleared, we went
+    ashore, and at once found ourselves in the midst of a
+    fairy-like scene, to describe which is almost impossible, so
+    bewildering is it in the brightness and variety of its
+    colouring. The magnolias and yellow and scarlet hibiscus,
+    overshadowing the water, the velvety turf, on to which one
+    steps from the boat, the white road running between rows of
+    wooden houses, whose little gardens are a mass of flowers,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 228<a name="Page_228"
+       id="Page_228"></a></span>the men and women clad in the
+       gayest robes and decked with flowers, the piles of
+       unfamiliar fruit lying on the grass, waiting to be
+       transported to the coasting vessels in the harbour, the
+       wide-spreading background of hills clad in verdure to their
+       summits&mdash;these are but a few of the objects which greet
+       the new-comer in his first contact with the shore.</p>
+
+    <p>We strolled about, and left our letters of introduction; but
+    the people to whom they were addressed were at breakfast, and
+    we were deliberating how best to dispose of our time, when a
+    gentleman accosted us, and, seeing how new it all was to us
+    strangers, offered to show us round the town.</p>
+
+    <p>The streets of Papeete, running back at right angles with
+    the beach, seem to have wonderfully grand names, such as the
+    Rue de Rivoli, Rue de Paris, &amp;c. Every street is shaded by
+    an avenue of high trees, whose branches meet and interlace
+    overhead, forming a sort of leafy tunnel, through which the
+    sea-breeze passes refreshingly. There is also what is called
+    the Chinamen's quarter, through which we walked, and which
+    consists of a collection of regular Chinese-built bamboo
+    houses, whose occupants all wore their national costume,
+    pigtail included. The French commandant lives in a charming
+    residence, surrounded by gardens, just opposite the palace of
+    Queen Pomare, who is at present at the island of Bola-Bola,
+    taking care of her little grandchild, aged five, the queen of
+    the island. She went down in a French man-of-war, the 'Limier,'
+    ten days ago, and has been obliged to remain, owing to some
+    disturbances amongst the natives. I am rather disappointed that
+    she is absent, as I should like to see a person of whom I have
+    heard so much.</p>
+
+    <p>Having completed our tour, we next went to call on the
+    British Consul, who received us kindly, and entertained us with
+    an interesting account of the island and its inhabitants, its
+    pearl-fisheries and trade, the French
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 229<a name="Page_229"
+       id="Page_229"></a></span>policy, the missionaries, &amp;c.,
+       on all of which subjects he is well informed. He has just
+       completed an exhaustive consular report on the condition of
+       the island, which will, no doubt, appear in due course in
+       the form of a blue-book.</p>
+
+    <p>On our return to Messrs. Brander's office, where we had left
+    one of our letters of introduction, we found the manager, with
+    whom we had a long chat before returning on board.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_244"
+             id="Illus_244"></a> <img src="images/t_244.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="187"
+             alt="Illustration: Ch&aelig;todon Tricolor"
+             title="Illustration: Ch&aelig;todon Tricolor" /><br />
+        <b>Ch&aelig;todon Tricolor</b><br />
+        <a href="images/244.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>At 5 p.m. we went for a row in the 'Glance' and the 'Flash'
+    to the coral reef, now illumined by the rays of the setting
+    sun. Who can describe these wonderful gardens of the deep, on
+    which we now gazed through ten and twenty fathoms of crystal
+    water? Who can enumerate or describe the strange creatures
+    moving about and darting hither and thither, amid the masses of
+    coral forming their submarine home? There were shells of rare
+    shape, brighter than if they had been polished by the hand of
+    the most skilful artist; crabs of all sizes, scuttling and
+    sidling along; sea-anemones, spreading their delicate feelers
+    in search of prey; and many other kinds of zoophytes, crawling
+    slowly over the reef; and scarlet, blue, yellow, gold, violet,
+    spotted, <span class="pagenum">Page 230<a name="Page_230"
+       id="Page_230"></a></span>striped, and winged fish, short,
+       long, pointed, and blunt, of the most varied shapes, were
+       darting about like birds among the coral trees.</p>
+
+    <p>At last, after frequent stoppages, to allow time for
+    admiration, we reached the outer reef, hauled the boat up and
+    made her fast, and, in bathing shoes, started on a paddling
+    expedition. Such a paddle it was, too, over the coral, the surf
+    breaking far above our heads, and the underflow, though only a
+    few inches deep, nearly carrying me and the children off our
+    legs! There were one or two native fishermen walking along the
+    reef, whipping the water; but they appeared to have caught only
+    a few small rock-fish, pretty enough to look at, but not
+    apparently good to eat.</p>
+
+    <p>The shades of night compelled us to return to the yacht,
+    laden with corals of many different species. After dinner the
+    bay was illuminated by the torches of the native fishermen, in
+    canoes, on the reef. Tom and I went to look at them, but did
+    not see them catch anything. Each canoe contained at least
+    three people, one of whom propelled the boat, another stood up
+    waving about a torch dipped in some resinous substance, which
+    threw a strong light on the water, while the third stood in the
+    bows, armed with a spear, made of a bundle of wires, tied to a
+    long pole, not at all unlike a gigantic egg-whip, with all its
+    loops cut into points. This is aimed with great dexterity at
+    the fish, who are either transfixed or jammed between the
+    prongs. The fine figures of the natives, lighted up by the
+    flickering torches, and standing out in bold relief against the
+    dark blue starlit sky, would have served as models for the
+    sculptors of ancient Greece.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, December 3rd</i>.&mdash;At a quarter to five this
+    morning some of us landed to see the market, this being the
+    great day when the natives come in from the country and
+    surrounding villages, by sea and by land, in boats, or on
+    horseback, to sell their produce, and buy necessaries for the
+    coming week. We walked through the shady streets
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 231<a name="Page_231"
+       id="Page_231"></a></span> to the two covered market
+       buildings, partitioned across with great bunches of oranges,
+       plantains, and many-coloured vegetables, hung on strings.
+       The mats, beds, and pillows still lying about suggested the
+       idea that the salesmen and women had passed the night
+       amongst their wares. The gaily attired, good-looking,
+       flower-decorated crowd, of some seven or eight hundred
+       people, all chatting and laughing, and some staring at
+       us&mdash;but not rudely&mdash;looked much more like a chorus
+       of opera-singers, dressed for their parts in some grand
+       spectacle, than ordinary market-going peasants. Whichever
+       way one turned, the prospect was an animated and attractive
+       one. Here, beneath the shade of large, smooth, light-green
+       banana leaves, was a group of earnest bargainers for
+       mysterious-looking fish, luscious fruit, and vegetables;
+       there, sheltered by a drooping mango, whose rich clusters of
+       purple and orange fruit hung in tempting proximity to lips
+       and hands, another little crowd was similarly engaged.
+       Orange-trees were evidently favourite <i>rendezvous</i>; and
+       a row of flower-sellers had established themselves in front
+       of a hedge of scarlet hibiscus and double Cape jasmine.
+       Every vendor carried his stock-in-trade, however small the
+       articles composing it might be, on a bamboo pole, across his
+       shoulder, occasionally with rather ludicrous effect, as, for
+       instance, when the thick but light pole supported only a
+       tiny fish six inches long at one end, and two mangoes at the
+       other. Everybody seemed to have brought to market just what
+       he or she happened to have on hand, however small the
+       quantity. The women would have one, two, or three new-laid
+       eggs in a leaf basket, one crab or lobster, three or four
+       prawns, or one little trout. Under these circumstances,
+       marketing for so large a party as ours was a somewhat
+       lengthy operation, and I was much amused in watching our
+       <i>proveedor</i>, as he went about collecting things by ones
+       and twos, until he had piled a little cart quite full, and
+       had had it pushed off to the shady quay.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_247"
+             id="Illus_247"></a> <img src="images/t_247.jpg"
+             width="212"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Ch&aelig;todon Plagmance"
+             title="Illustration: Ch&aelig;todon Plagmance" /><br />
+        <b>Ch&aelig;todon Plagmance</b><br />
+        <a href="images/247.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 232<a name="Page_232"
+       id="Page_232"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>We strolled about until six o'clock, at which hour the
+    purchasers began to disperse, and were just preparing to depart
+    likewise, when an old man, carrying half-a-dozen little fish,
+    and followed by a small boy laden with vegetables and fruit,
+    introduced himself to us as the brother-in-law of Queen Pomare
+    IV. and chief of Papeete, and, after a short talk, invited us
+    to visit him at his house. We consented, and, following him,
+    presently reached a break in the hedge and ditch that ran along
+    the side of the road, beyond which was a track, bordered by
+    pineapples and drac&aelig;nas, leading to a superior sort of
+    house, built in the native style, and surrounded, as usual, by
+    bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, banana, mango, and guava trees. We were
+    conducted into the one large room, which contained two
+    four-post bedsteads and four mattresses, laid on the floor, two
+    or three trunks, and a table in the corner, on which were
+    writing materials and a few books. The chief himself spoke a
+    very little English, his son an equally small amount of French;
+    so the conversation languished, and after a decent interval we
+    rose to depart. Our host asked if he might 'come and see my
+    ship,' and procured pen, ink, and paper&mdash;not of the best
+    quality&mdash;for me to write an order for him do so, 'in case
+    lady not at home.' He also presented me with some pictures of
+    soldiers, drawn by his son&mdash;a boy about eleven years old,
+    of whom he seemed very proud, and expressed his regret that we
+    could not prolong our stay, at the same time placing at our
+    disposal the whole house and garden, including a fat sow and
+    eleven little pigs.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 233<a name="Page_233"
+       id="Page_233"></a></span>Several other visitors had arrived
+       by this time, one of whom was on horseback, and, as I was
+       rather tired, he was asked if he would kindly allow me to
+       ride down to the landing place. He replied that he would
+       lend the horse to a gentleman, but not to me, as the saddle
+       was not suitable. I explained that this made no difference
+       to me, and mounted, though I did not attempt to follow the
+       fashion of the native ladies here, who ride like men. Our
+       new friend was quite delighted at this, and volunteered
+       himself to show us something of the neighbourhood.
+       Accordingly, leading my&mdash;or rather his&mdash;horse, and
+       guiding him carefully over all the rough places, he took us
+       through groves and gardens to the grounds belonging to the
+       royal family, in which were plantations of various kinds of
+       trees, and a thick undergrowth of guava. After an enjoyable
+       little expedition we returned to the yacht at about
+       half-past seven, accompanied by the small boy who had been
+       carrying our special purchases from the market all this
+       time, and by a little tail of followers.</p>
+
+    <p>At half-past eight we breakfasted, so as to be ready for the
+    service at the native church at ten o'clock; but several
+    visitors arrived in the interval, and we had rather a bustle to
+    get off in time, after all. We landed close to the church,
+    under the shade of an hibiscus, whose yellow and orange flowers
+    dropped off into the sea and floated away amongst the coral
+    rocks, peeping out of the water here and there. The building
+    appeared to be full to overflowing. The windows and doors were
+    all wide open, and many members of the congregation were seated
+    on the steps, on the lawn, and on the grassy slope beyond,
+    listening to a discourse in the native language. Most of the
+    people wore the native costume, which, especially when made of
+    black stuff and surmounted by a little sailor's hat, decorated
+    with a bandana handkerchief or a wreath of flowers, was very
+    becoming. Sailors' hats are universally worn, and are generally
+    made by the natives themselves from plantain
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 234<a name="Page_234"
+       id="Page_234"></a></span>or palm leaves, or from the inside
+       fibre of the arrowroot. Some rather elderly men and women in
+       the front rows were taking notes of the sermon. I found
+       afterwards that they belonged to the Bible class, and that
+       their great pride was to meet after the service and repeat
+       by heart nearly all they had heard. This seems to show at
+       least a desire to profit by the minister's efforts.</p>
+
+    <p>After the usual service there were two christenings. The
+    babies were held at the font by the men, who looked extremely
+    sheepish. One baby was grandly attired in a book-muslin dress,
+    with flounces, a tail at least six feet long dragging on the
+    ground, and a lace cap with cherry-coloured bows; the other was
+    nearly as smart, in a white-worked long frock and cap, trimmed
+    with blue bows. The christenings over, there was a hymn,
+    somewhat monotonous as to time and tune, but sung with much
+    fervour, followed by the administration of the sacrament, in
+    which cocoa-nut milk took the place of wine, and bread-fruit
+    that of bread. The proper elements were originally used, but
+    experience proved that, although the bread went round pretty
+    well, the cup was almost invariably emptied by the first two or
+    three communicants, sometimes with unfortunate results.</p>
+
+    <p>After service we drove through the shady avenues of the town
+    into the open country, past trim little villas and sugar-cane
+    plantations, until we turned off the main road, and entered an
+    avenue of mangoes, whence a rough road, cut through a guava
+    thicket, leads to the main gate of
+    Faataua<a name="FNanchor_9_9"
+       id="FNanchor_9_9"></a> <a href="#Footnote_9_9"
+       class="fnanchor">[9]</a>&mdash;a regular square Indian
+       bungalow, with thatched roofs, verandahs covered with
+       creepers, windows opening to the ground, and steps leading
+       to the gardens on every side, ample accommodation for
+       stables, kitchens, servants, being provided in numerous
+       outbuildings.</p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_9_9"
+           id="Footnote_9_9"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a>
+           'Fuatawah' or 'Faataua,' <i>to make friends</i>.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Soon after breakfast, Mrs. Brander dressed me in one of her
+    own native costumes, and we drove to the outskirts of a dense
+    forest, through which a footpath leads to the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 235<a name="Page_235"
+       id="Page_235"></a></span>waterfall and fort of Faataua. Here
+       we found horses waiting for us, on which we rode,
+       accompanied by the gentlemen on foot, through a thick growth
+       of palms, orange-trees, guavas, and other tropical trees,
+       some of which were overhung and almost choked by luxuriant
+       creepers. Specially noticeable among the latter was a
+       gorgeous purple passion-flower, with orange-coloured fruit
+       as big as pumpkins, that covered everything with its
+       vigorous growth. The path was always narrow and sometimes
+       steep, and we had frequently almost to creep under the
+       overhanging boughs, or to turn aside to avoid a more than
+       usually dense mass of creepers. We crossed several small
+       rivers, and at last reached a spot that commanded a view of
+       the waterfall, on <span class="pagenum">Page
+       236<a name="Page_236"
+       id="Page_236"></a></span>the other side of a deep ravine.
+       Just below the fort that crowns the height, a river issues
+       from a narrow cleft in the rock, and falls at a single bound
+       from the edge of an almost perpendicular cliff, 600 feet
+       high, into the valley beneath. First one sees the rush of
+       blue water, gradually changing in its descent to a cloud of
+       white spray, which in its turn is lost in a rainbow of mist.
+       Imagine that from beneath the shade of feathery palms and
+       broad-leaved bananas through a network of ferns and creepers
+       you are looking upon the Staubbach, in Switzerland,
+       magnified in height, and with a background of verdure-clad
+       mountains, and you will have some idea of the fall of
+       Faataua as we beheld it.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_250"
+             id="Illus_250"></a> <img src="images/t_250.jpg"
+             width="159"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Waterfall at Faataua"
+             title="Illustration: Waterfall at Faataua" /><br />
+        <b>Waterfall at Faataua</b><br />
+        <a href="images/250.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>After resting a little while and taking some sketches, we
+    climbed up to the fort itself, a place of considerable
+    interest, where the natives held out to the very last against
+    the French. On the bank opposite the fort, the last islander
+    killed during the struggle for independence was shot while
+    trying to escape. Situated in the centre of a group of
+    mountains, with valleys branching off in all directions, the
+    fort could hold communication with every part of the coast, and
+    there can be little doubt that it would have held out much
+    longer than it did, but for the treachery of one of the
+    garrison, who led the invaders, under cover of the night, and
+    by devious paths, to the top of a hill commanding the position.
+    Now the ramparts and earthworks are overrun and almost hidden
+    by roses. Originally planted, I suppose, by the new-comers,
+    they have spread rapidly in all directions, till the hill-sides
+    and summits are quite a-blush with the fragrant bloom.</p>
+
+    <p>Having enjoyed some strawberries and some icy cold water
+    from a spring, and heard a long account of the war from the
+    <i>gardiens</i>, we found it was time to commence our return
+    journey, as it was now getting late. We descended much more
+    quickly than we had come up, but daylight had faded into the
+    brief tropical twilight, and that again into the shades of
+    night, ere we reached the carriage. <span class="pagenum">Page
+    237<a name="Page_237"
+       id="Page_237"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>Dinner and evening service brought the day to a conclusion,
+    and I retired, not unwillingly, to bed, to dream of the charms
+    of Tahiti.</p>
+
+    <p>Sometimes I think that all I have seen must be only a long
+    vision, and that too soon I shall awaken to the cold reality;
+    the flowers, the fruit, the colours worn by every one, the
+    whole scene and its surroundings, seem almost too fairylike to
+    have an actual existence. I am in despair when I attempt to
+    describe all these things. I feel that I cannot do anything
+    like justice to their merits, and yet I fear all the time that
+    what I say may be looked upon as an exaggeration.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span>Long dreamy lawns, and birds on happy
+            wings,<br /></span> <span class="i2">Keeping their
+            homes in never-rifled bowers;<br /></span> <span>Cool
+            fountains filling with their murmurings<br /></span>
+            <span class="i2">The sunny silence 'twixt the chiming
+            hours.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>At daybreak next morning, when I went on deck, it was a dead
+    calm. The sea-breeze had not yet come in, and there was not a
+    ripple on the surface of the harbour. Outside, two little white
+    trading schooners lay becalmed; inside, the harbour-tug was
+    getting up steam. On shore, a few gaily dressed natives were
+    hurrying home with their early market produce, and others were
+    stretched lazily on the grass at the water's edge or on the
+    benches under the trees. Our stores for the day, a
+    picturesque-looking heap of fish, fruit, vegetables, and
+    flowers, were on the steps, waiting to be brought off, and
+    guarded in the meantime by natives in costumes of pink, blue,
+    orange, and a delicate pale green they specially affect. The
+    light mists rolled gradually away from the mountain tops, and
+    there was every prospect of a fine day for a projected
+    excursion.</p>
+
+    <p>I went ashore to fetch some of the fresh gathered fruit, and
+    soon we had a feast of luscious pineapples, juicy mangoes,
+    bananas, and oranges, with the dew still upon them. The mango
+    is certainly the king of fruit. Its flavour is a combination of
+    apricot and pineapple, with the slightest
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 238<a name="Page_238"
+       id="Page_238"></a></span>possible suspicion of turpentine
+       thrown in, to give a piquancy to the whole. I dare say it
+       sounds a strange mixture, but I can only say that the result
+       is delicious. To enjoy mangoes thoroughly you ought not to
+       eat them in company, but leaning over the side of the ship,
+       in the early morning, with your sleeves tucked up to your
+       elbows, using no knife and fork, but tearing off the skin
+       with your teeth, and sucking the abundant juice.</p>
+
+    <p>We breakfasted at half-past six, and, at a little before
+    eight, went ashore, where we were met by a sort of
+    <i>char-&agrave;-bancs</i>, or American wagon, with three
+    seats, one behind the other, all facing the horses, and roomy
+    and comfortable enough for two persons. Our Transatlantic
+    cousins certainly understand thoroughly, and do their best to
+    improve everything connected with, the locomotion they love so
+    well. A Chinese coachman and a thin but active pair of little
+    horses completed the turn-out. Mabelle sat beside the coachman,
+    and we four packed into, the other two seats, with all our
+    belongings.</p>
+
+    <p>The sun was certainly <i>very</i> powerful when we emerged
+    from the shady groves of Papeete, but there was a nice breeze,
+    and sometimes we got under the shade of cocoa-nut trees. We
+    reached Punauia at about half-past nine, and changed horses
+    there. While waiting, hot and thirsty, under the shelter of
+    some trees, we asked for a cocoa-nut, whereupon a man standing
+    by immediately tied a withy of banana leaves round his feet and
+    proceeded to climb, or rather hop, up the nearest tree, raising
+    himself with his two hands and his feet alternately, with an
+    exactly similar action to that of our old friend the monkey on
+    the stick. People who have tasted the cocoa-nut only in England
+    can have no idea what a delicious fruit it really is when
+    nearly ripe and freshly plucked. The natives remove the outer
+    husk, just leaving a little piece to serve as a foot for the
+    pale brown cup to rest on. They then smooth off the top, and
+    you have an elegant vase, something like a mounted ostrich
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 239<a name="Page_239"
+       id="Page_239"></a></span>egg in appearance, lined with the
+       snowiest ivory, and containing about three pints of cool
+       sweet water. Why it is called milk I cannot understand, for
+       it is as clear as crystal, and is always cool and
+       refreshing, though the nut in which it is contained has
+       generally been exposed to the fiercest sun. In many of the
+       coral islands, where the water is brackish, the natives
+       drink scarcely anything but cocoa-nut milk; and even here,
+       if you are thirsty and ask for a glass of water, you are
+       almost always presented with a cocoa-nut instead.</p>
+
+    <p>From Punauia onwards the scenery increased in beauty, and
+    the foliage was, if possible, more luxuriant than ever. The
+    road ran through extensive coffee, sugar-cane, Indian corn,
+    orange, cocoa-nut, and cotton plantations, and vanilla,
+    carefully trained on bamboos, growing in the thick shade. Near
+    Atimaono we passed the house of a great cotton planter, and,
+    shortly afterwards, the curious huts, raised on platforms,
+    built by some islanders he has imported from the Kingsmill
+    group to work his plantations. They are a wild, savage-looking
+    set, very inferior to the Tahitians in appearance. The
+    cotton-mills, which formerly belonged to a company, are now all
+    falling to ruin; and in many other parts of the island we
+    passed cotton plantations uncleaned and neglected, and fast
+    running to seed and waste. So long as the American war lasted,
+    a slight profit could be made upon Tahitian cotton, but now it
+    is hopeless to attempt to cultivate it with any prospect of
+    adequate return.</p>
+
+    <p>The sun was now at its height, and we longed to stop and
+    bathe in one of the many fresh-water streams we crossed, and
+    afterwards to eat our lunch by the wayside; but our Chinese
+    coachman always pointed onwards, and said, 'Eatee much
+    presently; horses eatee too.' At last we arrived at a little
+    house, shaded by cocoa-nut trees, and built in an enclosure
+    near the sea-shore, with 'Restaurant' written up over the door.
+    We drove in, and were met by the proprietor, with what must
+    have been rather an embarrassing multiplicity of women and
+    children about his heels. <span class="pagenum">Page
+    240<a name="Page_240"
+       id="Page_240"></a></span>The cloth was not laid, but the
+       rooms looked clean, and there was a heap of tempting-looking
+       fish and fruit in a corner. We assured him we were starving,
+       and begged for luncheon as soon as possible; and, in the
+       meantime, went for a dip in the sea. But the water was
+       shallow, and the sun made the temperature at least 90&deg;,
+       so that our bath was not very refreshing. On our return we
+       found the table most enticingly laid out, with little
+       scarlet crayfish, embedded in cool green lettuce leaves,
+       fruit of various kinds, good wine and fair bread, all
+       arranged on a clean though coarse tablecloth. There was also
+       a savoury omelette, so good that Tom asked for a second;
+       when, to our astonishment, there appeared a plump roast
+       fowl, with most artistic gravy and fried potatoes. Then came
+       a <i>biftek aux champignons</i>, and some excellent coffee
+       to wind up with. On making the host our compliments, he
+       said, 'Je fais la cuisine moi-m&ecirc;me, Madame.' In the
+       course of our repast we again tasted the bread-fruit, but
+       did not much appreciate it, though it was this time cooked
+       in the native fashion&mdash;roasted underground by means of
+       hot stones.</p>
+
+    <p>Our coachman was becoming impatient, so we bade farewell to
+    our host, and resumed our journey. We crossed innumerable
+    streams on our way, generally full not only of water, but also
+    of bathers; for the Tahitians are very fond of water, and
+    always bathe once or twice a day in the fresh streams, even
+    after having been in the sea.</p>
+
+    <p>In many places along the road people were making hay from
+    short grass, and in others they were weighing it preparatory to
+    sending it into town. But they say the grass grown here is not
+    at all nourishing for horses, and some people import it from
+    Valparaiso.</p>
+
+    <p>The road round the island is called the Broom Road. Convicts
+    were employed in its original formation, and now it is the
+    punishment for any one getting drunk in any part of the island
+    to be set to work to sweep, repair, and keep in order a piece
+    of the road in the neighbourhood of his
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 241<a name="Page_241"
+       id="Page_241"></a></span>dwelling. It is the one good road
+       of Tahiti, encircling the larger of the two peninsulas close
+       to the sea-shore, and surmounting the low mountain range in
+       the centre of the isthmus.</p>
+
+    <p>Before long we found ourselves close to Taravao, the narrow
+    strip of land connecting the two peninsulas into which Tahiti
+    is divided, and commenced to ascend the hills that form the
+    backbone of the island. We climbed up and up, reaching the
+    summit at last, to behold a magnificent prospect on all sides.
+    Then a short sharp descent, a long drive over grass roads
+    through a rich forest, and again a brief ascent, brought us to
+    our sleeping-quarters for the night, the Hotel de l'Isthme,
+    situated in a valley in the midst of a dense grove of
+    cocoa-nuts and bananas, kept by two retired French sailors, who
+    came out to meet us, and conducted us up a flight of steps on
+    the side of a mud bank to the four rooms forming the hotel.
+    These were two sleeping apartments, a <i>salon</i>, and a
+    <i>salle &agrave; manger</i>, the walls of which consisted of
+    flat pieces of wood, their own width apart, something like
+    Venetian shutters, with unglazed windows and doors opening into
+    the garden.</p>
+
+    <p>We walked about four hundred yards along a grassy road to
+    the sea, where Mabelle and I paddled about in shallow water and
+    amused ourselves by picking up coral, shells, and
+    <i>b&ecirc;che-de-mer</i>, and watching the blue and yellow
+    fish darting in and out among the rocks, until at last we found
+    a place in the coral which made a capital deep-water bath.
+    Dressing again was not such a pleasant affair, owing to the
+    mosquitoes biting us in the most provoking manner. Afterwards
+    we strolled along the shore, which was covered with cocoa-nuts
+    and driftwood, washed thither, I suppose, from some of the
+    adjacent islands, and on our way back to the hotel we gathered
+    a handful of choice exotics and graceful ferns, with which to
+    decorate the table.</p>
+
+    <p>The dinner itself really deserves a detailed description, if
+    only to show that one may make the tour of Tahiti
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 242<a name="Page_242"
+       id="Page_242"></a></span>without necessarily having to rough
+       it in the matter of food. We had crayfish and salad as a
+       preliminary, and next, an excellent soup followed by
+       delicious little oysters, that cling to the boughs and roots
+       of the guava and mangrove trees overhanging the sea. Then
+       came a large fish, name unknown, the inevitable
+       <i>bouilli</i> and cabbage, <i>c&ocirc;telettes aux pommes,
+       biftek aux champignons</i>, succeeded by crabs and other
+       shellfish, including <i>wurrali</i>, a delicate-flavoured
+       kind of lobster, an <i>omelette aux abricots</i>, and
+       dessert of tropical fruits. We were also supplied with good
+       wine, both red and white, and bottled beer.</p>
+
+    <p>I ought, in truth, to add that the cockroaches were rather
+    lively and plentiful, but they did not form a serious drawback
+    to our enjoyment. After dinner, however, when I went to see
+    Mabelle to bed, hundreds of these creatures, about three inches
+    long, and broad in proportion, scuttled away as I lighted the
+    candle; and while we were sitting outside we could see troops
+    of them marching up and down in rows between the crevices of
+    the walls. Then there were the mosquitoes, who hummed and
+    buzzed about us, and with whom, alas! we were doomed to make a
+    closer acquaintance. Our bed was fitted with the very thickest
+    calico mosquito curtains, impervious to the air, but not to the
+    venomous little insects, who found their way in through every
+    tiny opening in spite of all our efforts to exclude them.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, December 5th</i>.&mdash;The heat in the night
+    was suffocating, and soon after twelve o'clock we both woke up,
+    feeling half-stifled. There was a dim light shining into the
+    room, and Tom said, 'Thank goodness, it's getting daylight;'
+    but on striking my repeater we found to our regret that this
+    was a mistake. In the moonlight I could see columns of nasty
+    brown cockroaches ascending the bedposts, crawling along the
+    top of the curtains, dropping with a thud on to the bed, and
+    then descending over the side to the ground. At last I could
+    stand it no longer, and <span class="pagenum">Page
+    243<a name="Page_243"
+       id="Page_243"></a></span>opening the curtains cautiously, I
+       seized my slippers, knocked half-a-dozen brown beasts out of
+       each, wrapped myself in a poncho&mdash;previously well
+       shaken&mdash;gathered my garments around me, surmounted a
+       barricade I had constructed overnight to keep the pigs and
+       chickens out of our doorless room, and fled to the garden.
+       All was still, the only sign of life being a light in a
+       neighbouring hut, and I sat out in the open air in
+       comparative comfort, until driven indoors again by torrents
+       of rain, at about half-past two o'clock.</p>
+
+    <p>I plunged into bed again, taking several mosquitoes with me,
+    which hummed and buzzed and devoured us to their hearts'
+    content till dawn. Then I got up and walked down to the beach
+    to bathe, and returned to breakfast at six o'clock, refreshed
+    but still disfigured.</p>
+
+    <p>It is now the depth of winter and the middle of the rainy
+    season in Tahiti; but, luckily for us, it is nearly always fine
+    in the daytime. At night, however, there is often a perfect
+    deluge, which floods the houses and gardens, turns the streams
+    into torrents, but washes and refreshes the vegetation, and
+    leaves the landscape brighter and greener than before.</p>
+
+    <p>At half-past seven the horses were put to, and we were just
+    ready for a start, when down came the rain again, more heavily
+    than before. It was some little time before it ceased enough to
+    allow us to start, driving along grassy roads and through
+    forests, but progressing rather slowly, owing to the soaked
+    condition of the ground. If you can imagine the Kew hot-houses
+    magnified and multiplied to an indefinite extent, and laid out
+    as a gentleman's park, traversed by numerous grassy roads
+    fringed with cocoa-nut palms, and commanding occasional
+    glimpses of sea, and beach, and coral reefs, you will have some
+    faint idea of the scene through which our road lay.</p>
+
+    <p>Many rivers we crossed, and many we stuck in, the gentlemen
+    having more than once to take off their shoes
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 244<a name="Page_244"
+       id="Page_244"></a></span>and stockings, tuck up their
+       trousers, jump into the water, and literally put their
+       shoulders to the wheel. Sometimes we drove out into the
+       shallow sea, till it seemed doubtful when and where we
+       should make the land again. Sometimes we climbed up a solid
+       road, blasted out of the face of the black cliffs, or crept
+       along the shore of the tranquil lagoon, frightening the
+       land-crabs into their holes as they felt the shake of the
+       approaching carriage. Palms and passiflora abounded, the
+       latter being specially magnificent. It seems wonderful how
+       their thin steins can support, at a height of thirty or
+       forty feet from the ground, the masses of huge
+       orange-coloured fruit which depend in strings from their
+       summits.</p>
+
+    <p>At the third river, not far from where it fell into the sea,
+    we thought it was time to lunch; so we stopped the carriage,
+    gave the horses their provender, and sat down to enjoy
+    ourselves after our long drive. It was early in the afternoon
+    before we started again, and soon after this we were met by
+    fresh horses, sent out from Papenoo<a name="FNanchor_10_10"
+       id="FNanchor_10_10">;</a> <a href="#Footnote_10_10"
+       class="fnanchor">[10]</a> so it was not long before we found
+       ourselves near Point Venus, where we once more came upon a
+       good piece of road, down which we rattled to the plains
+       outside Papeete.</p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_10_10"
+           id="Footnote_10_10"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a>
+           From 'pape,' <i>water</i>, and 'noo,'
+           <i>abundance</i>.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We reached the quay at about seven o'clock, and, our arrival
+    having been observed, several friends came to see us and to
+    inquire how we had fared. Before we started on our excursion,
+    instructions had been given that the 'Sunbeam' should be
+    painted <i>white</i>, for the sake of coolness, and we were all
+    very curious to see how she would look in her new dress; but
+    unfortunately the wet weather has delayed the work, and there
+    is still a good deal to do.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, December 6th</i>.&mdash;It was raining fast at
+    half-past four this morning, which was rather provoking, as I
+    wanted to take some photographs from the yacht's deck before
+    the sea-breeze sprang up. But the weather cleared while I was
+    choosing my position and fixing my camera,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 245<a name="Page_245"
+       id="Page_245"></a></span>and I was enabled to take what I
+       hope may prove to be some successful photographs.</p>
+
+    <p>Messrs. Brander's mail-ship, a sailing vessel of about 600
+    tons, was to leave for San Francisco at eight o'clock, and at
+    seven Tom started in the 'Flash' to take our letters on board.
+    The passage to San Francisco occupies twenty-five days on an
+    average, and is performed with great regularity once a month
+    each way. The vessels employed on this line, three in number,
+    are well built, and have good accommodation for passengers, and
+    they generally carry a full cargo. In the present instance it
+    consists of fungus and tripang (<i>b&ecirc;che-de-mer</i>) for
+    China, oranges for San Francisco, a good many packages of
+    sundries, and a large consignment of pearls, entrusted to the
+    captain at the last moment.</p>
+
+    <p>So brisk is the trade carried on between Tahiti and the
+    United States, that the cost of this vessel was more than
+    covered by the freights the first year after she was built. In
+    addition to these ships, there are those which run backwards
+    and forwards to Valparaiso, and the little island trading
+    schooners; so that the Tahitians can boast of quite a
+    respectable fleet of vessels, not imposing perhaps in point of
+    tonnage, but as smart and serviceable-looking as could be
+    desired. The trading schooners are really beautiful little
+    craft, and I am sure that, if well kept and properly manned,
+    they would show to no discredit among our smart yachts at
+    Cowes. Not a day passes without one or more entering or leaving
+    the harbour, returning from or bound to the lonely isles with
+    which the south-west portion of the Pacific is studded. They
+    are provided with a patent log, but their captains, who are
+    intelligent men, do not care much about a chronometer, as the
+    distances to be run are comparatively short and are easily
+    judged.</p>
+
+    <p>Mr. Godeffroy gave us rather an amusing account of the
+    manner in which their negotiations with the natives are
+    conducted. The more civilised islanders have got beyond barter,
+    and prefer hard cash in American dollars for their
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 246<a name="Page_246"
+       id="Page_246"></a></span>pearls, shells, cocoa-nuts,
+       sandal-wood, &amp;c. When they have received the money, they
+       remain on deck for some time discussing their bargains among
+       themselves. Then they peep down through the open skylights
+       into the cabin below, where the most attractive prints and
+       the gaudiest articles of apparel are temptingly displayed,
+       alongside a few bottles of rum and brandy and a supply of
+       tobacco. It is not long before the bait is swallowed; down
+       go the natives, the goods are sold, and the dollars have
+       once more found their way back into the captain's hands.</p>
+
+    <p>I had a long talk with one of the natives, who arrived
+    to-day from Flint Island&mdash;a most picturesque-looking
+    individual, dressed in scarlet and orange-coloured flannel, and
+    a mass of black, shiny, curly hair. Flint Island is a place
+    whose existence has been disputed, it having been more than
+    once searched for by ships in vain. It was, therefore,
+    particularly interesting to meet some one who had actually
+    visited, and had just returned from, the spot in question. That
+    islands do occasionally disappear entirely in these parts there
+    can be little doubt. The Tahitian schooners were formerly in
+    the habit of trading with a small island close to Rarotonga,
+    whose name I forget; but about four years ago, when proceeding
+    thither with the usual three-monthly cargo of provisions,
+    prints, &amp;c., they failed to find the island, of which no
+    trace has since been seen. Two missionaries from Rarotonga are
+    believed to have been on it at the time of its disappearance,
+    and to have shared its mysterious fate.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, December 7th</i>.&mdash;At eight o'clock I took
+    Mabelle and Muriel for a drive in a pony-carriage which had
+    been kindly lent me, but with a hint that the horse was rather
+    <i>m&eacute;chant</i> sometimes. He behaved well on the present
+    occasion, however, and we had a pleasant drive in the outskirts
+    of the town for a couple of hours.</p>
+
+    <p>Just as we returned, a gentleman came and asked me if I
+    should like to see some remarkably fine pearls, and on
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 247<a name="Page_247"
+       id="Page_247"></a></span>my gladly consenting, he took me to
+       his house, where I saw some pearls certainly worth going to
+       look at, but too expensive for me, one pear-shaped gem alone
+       having been valued at 1,000<i>l</i>. I was told they came
+       from a neighbouring island, and I was given two shells
+       containing pearls in various stages of formation.</p>
+
+    <p>It was now time to go on board to receive some friends whom
+    we had invited to breakfast, and who arrived at about half-past
+    eleven.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_262"
+             id="Illus_262"></a> <img src="images/t_262.jpg"
+             width="227"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: A Tahitian Lady"
+             title="Illustration: A Tahitian Lady" /><br />
+        <b>A Tahitian Lady</b><br />
+        <a href="images/262.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>After breakfast, and a chat, and an examination of the
+    photograph books, &amp;c., we all landed, and went to see
+    Messrs. Brander's stores, where all sorts of requisites for
+    fitting out ships and their crews can be procured. It is
+    surprising to find how plentiful are the supplies of the
+    necessaries and even the luxuries of civilised life in this
+    far-away corner of the globe. You can even get <i>ice</i> here,
+    for the manufacture of which a retired English infantry officer
+    has set up an establishment with great success. But what
+    interested me most were the products of this and the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 248<a name="Page_248"
+       id="Page_248"></a></span>neighbouring islands. There were
+       tons of exquisitely tinted pearl shells, six or eight inches
+       in diameter, formerly a valuable article of commerce, but
+       now worth comparatively little. The pearls that came out of
+       them had unfortunately been sent away to
+       Liverpool&mdash;1,000<i>l</i>. worth by this morning's, and
+       5,000<i>l</i> by the last mail-ship. Then there was vanilla,
+       a most precarious crop, which needs to be carefully watered
+       and shaded from the first moment it is planted, and which
+       must be gathered before it is ripe, and dried and matured in
+       a moist heat, between blankets and feather-beds, in order
+       that the pods may not crack and allow the essence to escape.
+       We saw also edible fungus, exported to San Francisco, and
+       thence to Hong Kong, solely for the use of the Chinese;
+       tripang, or <i>b&ecirc;che-de-mer</i>, a sort of sea-slug or
+       holothuria, which, either living or dead, fresh or dried,
+       looks equally untempting, but is highly esteemed by the
+       Celestials; coprah, or dried cocoa-nut kernels, broken into
+       small pieces in order that they may stow better, and
+       exported to England and other parts, where the oil is
+       expressed and oil-cake formed; and various other articles of
+       commerce. The trade of the island is fast increasing, the
+       average invoice value of the exports having risen from
+       8,400<i>l</i> in 1845 to 98,000<i>l</i> in 1874. These
+       totals are exclusive of the value of the pearls, which would
+       increase it by at least another 3,000<i>l</i> or
+       4,000<i>l</i>.</p>
+
+    <p>I speak from personal experience when I say that every
+    necessary of life on board ship, and many luxuries, can be
+    procured at Tahiti. American tinned fruits and vegetables beat
+    English ones hollow. Preserved milk is
+    uncertain&mdash;sometimes better, sometimes worse, than what
+    one buys at home. Tinned salmon is much better. Australian
+    mutton, New Zealand beef, and South Sea pork, leave nothing to
+    be desired in the way of preserved meat. Fresh beef, mutton,
+    and butter are hardly procurable, and the latter, when
+    preserved, is uneatable. I can never understand why they don't
+    take to potting and salting down for export the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 249<a name="Page_249"
+       id="Page_249"></a></span><i>best</i> butter, at some large
+       Irish or Devonshire farm, instead of reserving that process
+       for butter which is just on the turn and is already almost
+       unfit to eat; the result being that, long before it has
+       reached a hot climate, it is only fit to grease
+       carriage-wheels with. It could be done, and I feel sure it
+       would pay, as good butter would fetch almost any price in
+       many places. Some Devonshire butter, which we brought with
+       us from England, is as good now, after ten thousand miles in
+       the tropics, as it was when first put on board; but a
+       considerable proportion is very bad, and was evidently not
+       in proper condition in the first instance.</p>
+
+    <p>We had intended going afterwards to the coral reef with the
+    children to have a picnic there, and had accordingly given the
+    servants leave to go ashore for the evening; but it came on to
+    rain heavily, and we were obliged to return to the yacht
+    instead. The servants had, however, already availed themselves
+    of the permission they had received, and there was therefore no
+    one on board in their department; so we had to unpack our
+    basket and have our picnic on deck, under the awning, instead
+    of on the reef, which I think was almost as great a treat to
+    the children.</p>
+
+    <p>We have, I am sorry to say, had a good deal of trouble with
+    some of our men here. One disappeared directly we arrived, and
+    has never been seen since. Another came off suffering from
+    delirium tremens and epileptic fits, brought on by drink. His
+    cries and struggles were horrible to hear and witness. It took
+    four strong men to hold him, and the doctor was up with him all
+    last night. Nearly all the ships that come here have been at
+    sea for a long time, and the men are simply wild when they get
+    ashore. Some of the people know only too well how to take
+    advantage of this state of things, and the consequence is that
+    it is hardly safe for a sailor to drink a glass of grog, for
+    fear that it should be drugged. No doubt there are respectable
+    places to which the men could resort, but it is not easy for a
+    stranger to find them out, and our men seem to have been
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 250<a name="Page_250"
+       id="Page_250"></a></span>particularly unfortunate in this
+       respect. Tom talks of leaving two of them behind, and
+       shipping four fresh hands, as our number is already rather
+       short.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, December 8th</i>.&mdash;I persuaded Tom to make
+    another excursion to the coral reef this morning, and at five
+    o'clock he and Mabelle and I set off in the 'Flash,' just as
+    the sun was rising. We had a delightful row, past the
+    Quarantine Island<a name="FNanchor_11_11"
+       id="FNanchor_11_11"></a> <a href="#Footnote_11_11"
+       class="fnanchor">[11]</a>, to the portion of the reef on the
+       other side of the harbour, where we had not yet been, and
+       where I think the coral plants and flowers and bushes showed
+       to greater advantage than ever, as they were less crowded,
+       and the occasional patches of sandy bottom enabled one to
+       see them better. We were so engrossed in our examination of
+       these marvels of the deep, and of the fish with which the
+       water abounded, that we found ourselves aground several
+       times, and our return to the yacht was consequently
+       delayed.</p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_11_11"
+           id="Footnote_11_11"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a>
+           The native name is 'Motu-iti,' i.e. <i>little
+           island</i>.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>After breakfast I had another visit from a man with
+    war-cloaks, shell-belts, <i>tapa</i>, and <i>reva reva</i>,
+    which he brought on board for my inspection. It was a difficult
+    task to make him understand what I meant, but at last I thought
+    I had succeeded in impressing on his mind the fact that I
+    wished to buy them, and that they would be paid for at the
+    store. The sequel unfortunately proved that I was mistaken. At
+    nine o'clock we set out for the shore, and after landing drove
+    along the same road by which we had returned from our excursion
+    round the island<a name="FNanchor_12_12"
+       id="FNanchor_12_12">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_12_12"
+       class="fnanchor">[12]</a> After seeing as much of the place
+       as our limited time would allow, we drove over to Faataua,
+       where we found the children and maids. The grand piano,
+       every table, and the drawing-room floor,
+       <span class="pagenum">Page 251<a name="Page_251"
+       id="Page_251"></a></span>were spread with the presents we
+       were expected to take away with us. There were bunches of
+       scarlet feathers, two or three hundred in number, from the
+       tail of the tropic bird, which are only allowed to be
+       possessed and worn by chiefs, and which are of great value,
+       as each bird produces only two feathers; pearl shells, with
+       corals growing on them, red coral from the islands on the
+       Equator, curious sponges and sea-weed, <i>tapa</i> cloth and
+       <i>reva-reva</i> fringe, arrowroot and palm-leaf hats,
+       cocoa-nut drinking vessels, fine mats plaited in many
+       patterns, and other specimens of the products of the
+       island.</p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_12_12"
+           id="Footnote_12_12"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a>
+           We paid a brief visit to Point Venus, whence Captain
+           Cook observed the transit of Venus on November 9th,
+           1769, and we saw the lighthouse and tamarind tree, which
+           now mark the spot. The latter, from which we brought
+           away some seed, was undoubtedly planted by Captain Cook
+           with his own hand.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="figright">
+        <a name="Illus_266"
+             id="Illus_266"></a> <img src="images/t_266.gif"
+             width="42"
+             height="400"
+             alt="Illustration: Tropic Feathers"
+             title="Illustration: Tropic Feathers" /><br />
+        <b>Tropic Feathers</b><br />
+        <a href="images/266.gif">View full size<br />
+         illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>All the members of the royal family at present in Tahiti had
+    been invited to meet us, and arrived in due course, including
+    the heir-apparent and his brother and sister. All the guests
+    were dressed in the native costume, with wreaths on their heads
+    and necks, and even the servants&mdash;including our own, whom
+    I hardly recognised&mdash;were similarly decorated. Wreaths had
+    also been prepared for us, three of fragrant yellow flowers for
+    Mabelle, Muriel, and myself, and others of a different kind for
+    the gentlemen.</p>
+
+    <p>When the feast was ready the Prince offered me his arm, and
+    we all walked in a procession to a grove of bananas in the
+    garden through two lines of native servants, who, at a given
+    signal, saluted us with three hearty English cheers. We then
+    continued our walk till we arrived at a house, built in the
+    native style, by the side of a rocky stream, like a Scotch
+    burn. The uprights of the house were banana trees, transplanted
+    with their leaves on, so as to shade the roof, which was formed
+    of plaited cocoa-nut palm-leaves, each about fifteen feet long,
+    laid transversely across bamboo rafters. From these light-green
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 252<a name="Page_252"
+       id="Page_252"></a></span>supports and the dark green roof
+       depended the yellow and brown leaves of the <i>theve</i>,
+       woven into graceful garlands and elegant festoons. The floor
+       was covered with the finest mats, with black and white
+       borders, and the centre strewn with broad green plantain
+       leaves, to form the tablecloth, on which were laid baskets
+       and dishes, made of leaves sewed together, and containing
+       all sorts of native delicacies. There were oysters,
+       lobsters, wurrali, and crawfish, stewed chicken, boiled
+       sucking-pig, plantains, bread-fruit, melons, bananas,
+       oranges, and strawberries. Before each guest was placed a
+       half cocoa-nut full of salt water, another full of chopped
+       cocoa-nut, a third full of fresh water, and another full of
+       milk, two pieces of bamboo, a basket of <i>poi</i>, half a
+       bread-fruit, and a platter of green leaves, the latter being
+       changed with each course. We took our seats on the ground
+       round the green table. An address was first delivered in the
+       native language, grace was then said, and we commenced. The
+       first operation was to mix the salt water and the chopped
+       cocoa-nut together, so as to make an appetising sauce, into
+       which we were supposed to dip each morsel we ate, the empty
+       salt-water bowl being filled up with fresh water with which
+       to wash our fingers and lips. We were tolerably successful
+       in the use of our fingers as substitutes for knives and
+       forks. The only drawback was that the dinner had to be eaten
+       amid such a scene of novelty and beauty, that our attention
+       was continually distracted: there was so much to admire,
+       both in the house itself and outside it. After we had
+       finished, all the servants sat down to dinner, and from a
+       da&iuml;s at one end of the room we surveyed the bright and
+       animated scene, the gentlemen&mdash;and some of the ladies
+       too&mdash;meanwhile enjoying their cigarettes.</p>
+
+    <p>When we got down to Papeete, at about half-past four, so
+    many things had to be done that it seemed impossible to
+    accomplish a start this evening. First of all the two Princes
+    came on board, and were shown round, after which
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 253<a name="Page_253"
+       id="Page_253"></a></span>there were accounts to be paid,
+       linen to be got on board; and various other preparations to
+       be made. Presently it was discovered that the cloaks I had
+       purchased&mdash;or thought I had purchased&mdash;this
+       morning had not turned up, and that our saddles had been
+       left at Faataua on Sunday and had been forgotten. The latter
+       were immediately sent for, but although some one went on
+       shore to look after the cloaks nothing could be heard of
+       them; so I suppose I failed after all in making the man
+       understand that he was to take them to the store and be paid
+       for them there.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_268"
+             id="Illus_268"></a> <img src="images/t_268.gif"
+             width="229"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Ch&aelig;todon Besantii"
+             title="Illustration: Ch&aelig;todon Besantii" /><br />
+        <b>Ch&aelig;todon Besantii</b><br />
+        <a href="images/268.gif"><br />
+        View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>At six o'clock the pilot sent word that it was no longer
+    safe to go out; but steam was already up, and Tom therefore
+    decided to go outside the reef and there wait for the people
+    and goods that were still on shore. At this moment the saddles
+    appeared in one direction, and the rest of the party in
+    another. They were soon on board, the anchor was raised, and we
+    began to steam slowly ahead, taking a last regretful look at
+    Papeete as we left the harbour. By the time we were outside it
+    was dark, the pilot went ashore, and we steamed full speed
+    ahead. After dinner, and indeed until we went to bed, at
+    half-past eleven, the lights along the shore were clearly
+    visible, and the form of the high mountains behind could be
+    distinguished.</p>
+
+    <p>Good-bye, lovely Tahiti! I wonder if I shall ever see you
+    again; it makes me quite sad to think how small is the chance
+    of my doing so.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 254<a name="Page_254"
+       id="Page_254"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XV"
+       id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">TAHITI TO SANDWICH ISLANDS.&mdash;KILAUEA BY DAY
+    AND BY NIGHT.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>Methinks it should have been
+            impossible</i><br /></span> <span><i>Not to love all
+            things in a world so filled</i>,<br /></span>
+            <span><i>Where the breeze warbles, and the mute still
+            air</i><br /></span> <span><i>Is music, slumbering on
+            her instrument</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, December 9th</i>.&mdash;After leaving the
+    harbour of Papeete we passed close to the island of Eimeo, on
+    which we have gazed so often and with so much pleasure during
+    the past week. It is considered the most beautiful island of
+    the Georgian group, and we all regretted that we were unable to
+    spare the time to visit it. From afar it is rather like the
+    dolomite mountains in the Tyrol, and it is said that the
+    resemblance is even more striking on a near approach. The
+    harbour is a long narrow gorge between high mountains, clothed
+    with palms, oranges, and plantains, and is one of the most
+    remarkable features of the place. Huahine is the island of
+    which the Earl and the Doctor speak, in 'South Sea Bubbles,' in
+    terms of such enthusiasm, and Rarotonga is the head and centre
+    of all the missionary efforts of the present time in these
+    parts.</p>
+
+    <p>The weather to-day was fine, though we had occasional
+    squalls of wind and rain. We were close-hauled, and the motion
+    of the vessel was violent and disagreeable. I was very
+    sea-sick, and was consoled to find that several of the men were
+    so too. A head sea&mdash;or nearly so&mdash;is quite a novel
+    experience for us of late, and we none of us like the
+    change.<span class="pagenum">Page 255<a name="Page_255"
+       id="Page_255"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, December 10th</i>.&mdash;Another squally day.
+    Still close-hauled, and even then not on our course. We had a
+    short service at eleven, but it was as much as I could do to
+    remain on deck.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, December 11th</i>.&mdash;Very like yesterday. We
+    passed close to Flint and Vostok Islands, at the former of
+    which I should have much liked to land. But it was a good deal
+    to leeward of us; there is no anchorage, and the landing, which
+    is always difficult and sometimes impossible, has to be
+    effected in native surf-boats. It would have been interesting
+    to see a guano island, of which this is a perfect specimen.</p>
+
+    <p>We had hoped to make the Caroline Islands before dark (not
+    the Caroline Islands proper, but a group of low islets, whose
+    position is very uncertainly indicated in the different charts
+    and books); but the wind fell light, and as we could see
+    nothing of them at sunset, although the view from the masthead
+    extended at least fifteen miles in every direction, it was
+    decided at eight o'clock to put the ship about, to insure not
+    running on them or any of the surrounding reefs in the night.
+    The currents run very swiftly between these islands, and it is
+    impossible to tell your exact position, even a few hours after
+    having taken an observation.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, December 12th</i>.&mdash;The wind freshened
+    immediately after we had changed our course last night, and
+    fell light directly we had put about again this morning, so
+    that it was fully 9 a.m. before we had regained our position of
+    yesterday evening.</p>
+
+    <p>Our compass-cards were getting worn out, and Tom gave out
+    new ones before leaving Tahiti. I was very much amused
+    to-night, when, as usual, just before going to bed, I went to
+    have a look at the compass and see how the yacht was lying, and
+    asked the man at the wheel what course he was steering. 'North
+    and by west, half-east, ma'am,' he replied. 'That's a funny
+    course,' I said; 'tell <span class="pagenum">Page
+    256<a name="Page_256"
+       id="Page_256"></a></span>me again.' He repeated his
+       statement; whereupon I remarked that the course was quite a
+       new one to me. 'Oh, yes, ma'am,' he answered, 'but them's
+       the new compass-cards.' This man is one of the best helmsmen
+       in the ship, but certainly seems to be an indifferent
+       scholar.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, December 15th</i>.&mdash;We crossed the line at
+    half-past four this morning. Father Neptune was to have paid us
+    another visit in the evening, but the crew were busy, and there
+    were some difficulties about arranging the details of the
+    ceremony. The children were obliged, therefore, to be content
+    with their usual game of drilling every one that they were able
+    to muster for soldiers, after the fashion of Captain Brown's
+    'rifle practice,' or marching up and down the decks to the
+    strains of Jem Butt's fiddle playing 'Tommy make room for your
+    Uncle,' accompanied by the somewhat discordant noise of their
+    own drums. These amusements after sunset, and scrubbing decks
+    and working at the pumps before sunrise, give us all the
+    much-needed exercise it is impossible to take in the heat of
+    the daytime.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_271"
+             id="Illus_271"></a> <img src="images/t_271.jpg"
+             width="154"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Tattoo in the Tropics"
+             title="Illustration: Tattoo in the Tropics" /><br />
+        <b>Tattoo in the Tropics</b><br />
+        <a href="images/271.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 257<a name="Page_257"
+       id="Page_257"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, December 16th</i>.&mdash;At 1.30 a.m. I was
+    awoke by the strains of sweet music, and could not at first
+    imagine where I could be, or whence the sounds came. It proved
+    to be the performance of some 'waits' on board. I do not know
+    who originated the idea, but it was a very good one, and was
+    excellently carried out. Everybody assembled on deck by
+    degrees, and the songsters enjoyed a glass of grog when their
+    labours were finished, after which we all went to bed
+    again.</p>
+
+    <p>It had fallen calm yesterday evening, and the funnel was
+    raised at midnight, but the breeze sprang up again to-day, and
+    at noon the fires were banked and the sails were set. Of course
+    it then fell calm again, and at six o'clock we were once more
+    proceeding under steam. There was one squall in the night,
+    accompanied by the most tremendous rain I ever saw or heard. We
+    talk of tropical rain in England, but the real thing is very
+    different. It seemed just as if the bottom of an enormous
+    cistern overhead had suddenly been removed, allowing the
+    contents to fall exactly on the spot where we were. The water
+    came down in sheets, and was soon three or four inches deep on
+    the deck, though it was pouring out of the scuppers all the
+    time as fast as possible.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, December 17th</i>.&mdash;A showery morning. We
+    had Communion Service and hymns at eleven. In the afternoon it
+    was too rough for 'church,' and Tom was unable to deliver his
+    intended address to the men.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, December 18th</i>.&mdash;We were close-hauled,
+    with a strong north-east wind, and heavy squalls and showers at
+    intervals. We saw several flying-fish and a good many birds,
+    apparently hovering over a shoal of whales or grampuses. It is
+    wonderful how little life we have seen on this portion of our
+    voyage.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, December 19th</i>.&mdash;A fine day&mdash;wind
+    rather more fair&mdash;sea still rough and disagreeable. I
+    tried to work hard all day, but found it very
+    difficult.<span class="pagenum">Page 258<a name="Page_258"
+       id="Page_258"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, December 21st</i>.&mdash;Wind variable and
+    baffling&mdash;sometimes calm, sometimes squally, sometimes a
+    nice breeze. Sails were hoisted and lowered at least a dozen
+    times, and fires were banked more than once.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, December 22nd</i>.&mdash;At 6.30 a.m. we made the
+    island of Hawaii, rather too much to leeward, as we had been
+    carried by the strong current at least eighteen miles out of
+    our course. We were therefore obliged to beat up to windward,
+    in the course of which operation we passed a large barque
+    running before the wind&mdash;the first ship we had seen since
+    leaving Tahiti&mdash;and also a fine whale, blowing, close to
+    us. We could not see the high land in the centre of the island,
+    owing to the mist in which it was enveloped, and there was
+    great excitement and much speculation on board as to the
+    principal points which were visible. At noon the observations
+    taken proved that Tom was right in his opinion as to our exact
+    position. The wind dropped as we approached the coast, where we
+    could see the heavy surf dashing against the black lava cliffs,
+    rushing up the little creeks, and throwing its spray in huge
+    fountain-like jets high above the tall cocoa-nut trees far
+    inland.</p>
+
+    <p>We sailed along close to the shore, and by two o'clock were
+    near the entrance to the Bay of Hilo. In answer to our signal
+    for a pilot a boat came off with a man who said he knew the
+    entrance to the harbour, but informed us that the proper pilot
+    had gone to Honolulu on a pleasure trip.</p>
+
+    <p>It was a clear afternoon. The mountains, Mauna Kea and Mauna
+    Loa, could be plainly seen from top to bottom, their giant
+    crests rising nearly 14,000 feet above our heads, their tree
+    and fern clad slopes seamed with deep gulches or ravines, down
+    each of which a fertilising river ran into the sea. Inside the
+    reef, the white coral shore, on which the waves seemed too lazy
+    to break, is fringed with a belt of cocoa-nut palms, amongst
+    which, as well as on the hill-sides, the little white houses
+    are prettily dotted. All are surrounded by gardens, so full of
+    flowers that the bright <span class="pagenum">Page
+    259<a name="Page_259"
+       id="Page_259"></a></span>patches of colour were plainly
+       visible even from the deck of the yacht. The harbour is
+       large, and is exposed only to one bad wind, which is most
+       prevalent during the winter months. Still, with good
+       ground-tackle, there is not much to be feared, and there is
+       one particular spot, sheltered by the Blonde reef, which is
+       almost always safe. Here, accordingly, we have taken up our
+       station, though it is rather far from the town. Sometimes it
+       is impossible to land at Hilo itself for days together, but
+       there is fortunately a little creek behind Cocoa-nut Island
+       which is always accessible.</p>
+
+    <p>This afternoon the weather was all that could be desired,
+    and at three o'clock we landed and went straight to Mr.
+    Conway's store to make arrangements for going to the volcano of
+    Kilauea to-morrow. Mr. Conway sent a man off at once on
+    horseback to warn the people at the 'Half-way House' and at
+    'Volcano House' to make preparations to receive our
+    party&mdash;a necessary precaution, as visitors to the island
+    are not numerous, and can only arrive by the monthly steamer
+    from Honolulu.</p>
+
+    <p>Having arranged this matter, we went for a stroll, among
+    neat houses and pretty gardens, to the suspension-bridge over
+    the river, followed by a crowd of girls, all decorated with
+    wreaths and garlands, and wearing almost the same dress that we
+    had seen at Tahiti&mdash;a coloured long-sleeved loose gown
+    reaching to the feet. The natives here appear to affect duller
+    colours than those we have lately been accustomed to, lilac,
+    drab, brown, and other dark prints being the favourite tints.
+    Whenever I stopped to look at a view, one of the girls would
+    come behind me and throw a <i>lei</i> of flowers over my head,
+    fasten it round my neck, and then run away laughing, to a
+    distance, to judge of effect. The consequence was that, before
+    the end of our walk, I had about a dozen wreaths, of various
+    colours and lengths, hanging round me, till I felt almost as if
+    I had a fur tippet on, they made me so hot; and yet I did not
+    like to take them off for fear of hurting the poor girls'
+    feelings.<span class="pagenum">Page 260<a name="Page_260"
+       id="Page_260"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>We walked along the river bank, and crossed to the other
+    side just below the rapids, jumping over the narrow channels
+    through which the water hurried and rushed. Some of our
+    attendant girls carried Muriel and the dogs, and, springing
+    barefooted from rock to rock, led us across the stream and up
+    the precipitous banks on the other side. There is a sort of
+    hotel here, kept by a Chinaman, where everything is
+    scrupulously clean, and the food good though plain. It is
+    rather more like a lodging-house than an hotel, however. You
+    hire your rooms, and are expected to make special arrangements
+    for board. Before we got back to the yacht it had become dark,
+    the moon had risen, and we could see the reflection in the sky
+    of the fires in the crater of Kilauea. I do hope the volcano
+    will be active to-morrow. It is never two days in the same
+    condition, and visitors have frequently remained in the
+    neighbourhood of the crater for a week without seeing an
+    eruption.</p>
+
+    <p>The starlit sky, the bright young moon, and the red cloud
+    from Kilauea, floating far above our heads, made up a most
+    beautiful scene from the deck of the 'Sunbeam.'</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, December 23rd</i>.&mdash;The boatman who
+    brought us off last night had told us that Saturday was
+    market-day at Hilo, and that at five o'clock the natives would
+    come in from the surrounding country in crowds to buy their
+    Sunday and Christmas Day provisions, and to bring their own
+    produce for sale. We accordingly gave orders that the boat
+    should come for us at a quarter to five, shortly before which
+    we got up and went on deck. We waited patiently in the dark
+    until half-past five, when, no boat appearing from the shore,
+    the dingy was manned and we landed. The lights in the town were
+    all out, the day had hardly dawned, and there were no signs of
+    life to be seen. At last we met two men, who told us we should
+    find the market near the river, and offered to show us the way;
+    but when we arrived at the spot they had indicated we found
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 261<a name="Page_261"
+       id="Page_261"></a></span>only a large butcher's shop, and
+       were informed that the regular market for fish, fruit, and
+       other things was held at five o'clock <i>in the
+       afternoon</i> instead of in the morning. We had thus had all
+       our trouble for nothing, and the non-appearance of the boat
+       was fully explained.</p>
+
+    <p>Presently we met a friend who took us to his home. It was a
+    pretty walk, by the side of the river and through numerous
+    gardens, fresh with the morning dew. He gave us the latest news
+    from the United States, and presented us with oranges and
+    flowers, with which we returned to the yacht. We were on board
+    again by seven, and, having packed up our things and sent them
+    ashore, had an early breakfast, and landed, in readiness for
+    our excursion to Kilauea. The baggage animals ought already to
+    have started, but we found they had been kept back, in case we
+    should happen to forget anything. Quite a crowd assembled to
+    see us off, and a good deal of gossip had to be got through, so
+    that it was half-past nine before we were all mounted and
+    fairly off.</p>
+
+    <p>The first part of our way lay along the flat ground, gay
+    with bright scarlet Guernsey lilies, and shaded by cocoa-nut
+    trees, between the town and the sea. Then we struck off to the
+    right, and soon left the town behind us, emerging into the open
+    country. At a distance from the sea, Hilo looks as green as the
+    Emerald Isle itself; but on a closer inspection the grass turns
+    out to be coarse and dry, and many of the trees look scrubby
+    and half dead. Except in the 'gulches' and the deep holes
+    between the hills, the island is covered with lava, in many
+    places of so recent a deposit that it has not yet had time to
+    decompose, and there is consequently only a thin layer of soil
+    on its surface. This soil being, however, very rich, vegetation
+    flourishes luxuriantly for a time; but as soon as the roots
+    have penetrated a certain depth, and have come into contact
+    with the lava, the trees wither up and perish, like the seed
+    that fell on stony ground. <span class="pagenum">Page
+    262<a name="Page_262"
+       id="Page_262"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>The <i>ohia</i> trees form a handsome feature in the
+    landscape, with their thick tall stems, glossy foliage, and
+    light crimson flowers. The fruit is a small pink waxy-looking
+    apple, slightly acid, pleasant to the taste when you are
+    thirsty. The candle-nut trees attain to a large size, and their
+    light green foliage and white flowers have a very graceful
+    appearance. Most of the foliage, however, is spoiled by a
+    deposit of black dust, not unlike what one sees on the leaves
+    in a London garden. I do not know whether this is caused by the
+    fumes of the not far-distant volcano, or whether it is some
+    kind of mould or fungus.</p>
+
+    <p>After riding about ten miles in the blazing sun we reached a
+    forest, where the vegetation was quite tropical, though not so
+    varied in its beauties as that of Brazil, or of the still more
+    lovely South Sea Islands. There were ferns of various
+    descriptions in the forest, and many fine trees, entwined,
+    supported, or suffocated by numerous climbing plants, amongst
+    which were blue and lilac convolvulus, and magnificent
+    passion-flowers. The protection from the sun afforded by this
+    dense mass of foliage was extremely grateful; but the air of
+    the forest was close and stifling, and at the end of five miles
+    we were glad to emerge once more into the open. The rest of the
+    way lay over the hard lava, through a sort of desert of scrubby
+    vegetation, occasionally relieved by clumps of trees in
+    hollows. More than once we had a fine view of the sea,
+    stretching away into the far distance, though it was sometimes
+    mistaken for the bright blue sky, until the surf could be seen
+    breaking upon the black rocks, amid the encircling groves of
+    cocoa-nut trees.</p>
+
+    <p>The sun shone fiercely at intervals, and the rain came down
+    several times in torrents. The pace was slow, the road was dull
+    and dreary, and many were the inquiries made for the 'Half-way
+    House,' long before we reached it. We had still two miles
+    farther to go, in the course of which we were drenched by a
+    heavy shower. At last <span class="pagenum">Page
+    263<a name="Page_263"
+       id="Page_263"></a></span>we came to a native house, crowded
+       with people, where they were making <i>tappa</i> or
+       <i>kapa</i>&mdash;the cloth made from the bark of the
+       paper-mulberry. Here we stopped for a few minutes until our
+       guide hurried us on, pointing out the church and the
+       'Half-way House' just ahead.</p>
+
+    <p>We were indeed glad to dismount after our weary ride, and
+    rest in the comfortable rocking-chairs under the verandah. It
+    is a small white wooden building, overhung with orange-trees,
+    with a pond full of ducks and geese outside it, and a few
+    scattered outbuildings, including a cooking hut, close by. A
+    good-looking man was busy broiling beef-steaks, stewing
+    chickens, and boiling <i>taro</i>, and we had soon a plentiful
+    repast set before us, with the very weakest of weak tea as a
+    beverage. The woman of the house, which contained some finely
+    worked mats and clean-looking beds, showed us some <i>tappa
+    cloth</i>, together with the mallets and other instruments used
+    in its manufacture, and a beautiful orange-coloured <i>lei</i>,
+    or feather necklace, which she had made herself. The cloth and
+    mallets were for sale, but no inducement would persuade her to
+    part with the necklace. It was the first she had ever made, and
+    I was afterwards told that the natives are superstitiously
+    careful to preserve the first specimen of their handiwork, of
+    whatever kind it may be.</p>
+
+    <p>A woman dressed in a pink <i>holoku</i> and a light green
+    apron had followed us hither from the cottages we had first
+    stopped at, and I noticed at the time that, though she was
+    chatting and laughing with a female companion, she did not seem
+    very well. Whilst we were at lunch a sudden increase to her
+    family took place, and before we were ready to start I paid her
+    and her infant a visit. She was then sitting up, apparently as
+    well as ever, and seemed to look upon the recent event as a
+    very light matter.</p>
+
+    <p>Directly we had finished our meal&mdash;about three
+    o'clock&mdash;the guide came and tried to persuade us that, as
+    the baggage-mules had not yet arrived, it would be too late
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 264<a name="Page_264"
+       id="Page_264"></a></span>for us to go on to-day, and that we
+       had better spend the night where we were, and start early in
+       the morning. We did not, however, approve of this
+       arrangement, so the horses were saddled, and, leaving word
+       that the baggage-mules were to follow on as soon as
+       possible, we mounted, and set off for the 'Volcano House.'
+       We had not gone far before we were again overtaken by a
+       shower, which once more drenched us to the skin.</p>
+
+    <p>The scene was certainly one of extreme beauty. The moon was
+    hidden by a cloud, and the prospect lighted only by the red
+    glare of the volcano, which hovered before and above us like
+    the Israelites' pillar of fire, giving us hopes of a splendid
+    spectacle when we should at last reach the long-wished-for
+    crater. Presently the moon shone forth again, and gleamed and
+    glistened on the rain-drops and silver-grasses till they looked
+    like fireflies and glowworms. At last, becoming impatient, we
+    proceeded slowly on our way, until we met a man on horseback,
+    who hailed us in a cheery voice with an unmistakable American
+    accent. It was the landlord of the 'Volcano House,' Mr. Kane,
+    who, fearing from the delay that we had met with some mishap,
+    had started to look for us. He explained that he thought it was
+    only his duty to look after and help ladies visiting the
+    volcano, and added that he had intended going down as far as
+    the 'Half-way House' in search of us. It was a great relief to
+    know that we were in the right track, and I quite enjoyed the
+    gallop through the dark forest, though there was barely
+    sufficient light to enable me to discern the horse immediately
+    in front of me. When we emerged from the wood, we found
+    ourselves at the very edge of the old crater, the bed of which,
+    three or four hundred feet beneath us, was surrounded by steep
+    and in many places overhanging sides. It looked like an
+    enormous cauldron, four or five miles in width, full of a mass
+    of cooled pitch. In the centre was the still glowing stream of
+    dark red lava, flowing slowly towards us, and in every
+    direction were red-hot <span class="pagenum">Page
+    265<a name="Page_265"
+       id="Page_265"></a></span>patches, and flames and smoke
+       issuing from the ground. A bit of the 'black country' at
+       night, with all the coal-heaps on fire, would give you some
+       idea of the scene. Yet the first sensation is rather one of
+       disappointment, as one expects greater activity on the part
+       of the volcano; but the new crater was still to be seen,
+       containing the lake of fire, with steep walls rising up in
+       the midst of the sea of lava.</p>
+
+    <p>Twenty minutes' hard riding brought us to the door of the
+    'Volcano House,' from which issued the comforting light of a
+    large wood fire, reaching halfway up the chimney. Native
+    garments replaced Mabelle's and my dripping habits, and we sat
+    before the fire in luxury until the rest of the party arrived.
+    After some delay supper was served, cooked by our host, and
+    accompanied by excellent Bass's beer, no wine or spirits being
+    procurable on the premises. Mr. Kane made many apologies for
+    shortcomings, explaining that his cook had run away that
+    morning, and that his wife was not able to do much to assist
+    him, as her first baby was only a week old.</p>
+
+    <p>Everything at this inn is most comfortable, though the style
+    is rough and ready. The interior is just now decorated for
+    Christmas, with wreaths, and evergreens, and ferns, and bunches
+    of white plumes, not unlike <i>reva-reva</i>, made from the
+    pith of the silver-grass. The beds and bedrooms are clean, but
+    limited in number, there being only three of the latter
+    altogether. The rooms are separated only by partitions of
+    grass, seven feet high, so that there is plenty of ventilation,
+    and the heat of the fire permeates the whole building. But you
+    must not talk secrets in these dormitories or be too restless.
+    I was amused to find, in the morning, that I had unconsciously
+    poked my hand through the wall of our room during the
+    night.</p>
+
+    <p>The grandeur of the view in the direction of the volcano
+    increased as the evening wore on. The fiery cloud above the
+    present crater augmented in size and depth of colour; the
+    extinct crater glowed red in thirty or forty different
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 266<a name="Page_266"
+       id="Page_266"></a></span>places; and clouds of white vapour
+       issued from every crack and crevice in the ground, adding to
+       the sulphurous smell with which the atmosphere was laden.
+       Our room faced the volcano: there were no blinds, and I drew
+       back the curtains and lay watching the splendid scene until
+       I fell asleep.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, December 24th (Christmas Eve)</i>.&mdash;I was up
+    at four o'clock, to gaze once more on the wondrous spectacle
+    that lay before me. The molten lava still flowed in many
+    places, the red cloud over the fiery lake was bright as ever,
+    and steam was slowly ascending in every direction, over hill
+    and valley, till, as the sun rose, it became difficult to
+    distinguish clearly the sulphurous vapours from the morning
+    mists. We walked down to the Sulphur Banks, about a quarter of
+    a mile from the 'Volcano House,' and burnt our gloves and boots
+    in our endeavours to procure crystals, the beauty of which
+    generally disappeared after a very short exposure to the air.
+    We succeeded, however, in finding a few good specimens, and, by
+    wrapping them at once in paper and cotton-wool and putting them
+    into a bottle, hope to bring them home uninjured.</p>
+
+    <p>On our return we found a gentleman who had just arrived from
+    Kau, and who proposed to join us in our expedition to the
+    crater, and at three o'clock in the afternoon we set out, a
+    party of eight, with two guides, and three porters to carry our
+    wraps and provisions, and to bring back specimens. Before
+    leaving the inn the landlord came to us and begged us in an
+    earnest and confidential manner to be very careful, to do
+    exactly what our guides told us, and especially to follow in
+    their footsteps exactly when returning in the dark. He added,
+    'There never has been an accident happen to anybody from my
+    house, and I should feel real mean if one did: but there have
+    been a power of narrow escapes.'</p>
+
+    <p>First of all we descended the precipice, 300 feet in depth,
+    forming the wall of the old crater, but now thickly
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 267<a name="Page_267"
+       id="Page_267"></a></span>covered with vegetation. It is so
+       steep in many places that flights of zig-zag wooden steps
+       have been inserted in the face of the cliff in some places,
+       in order to render the descent practicable. At the bottom we
+       stepped straight on to the surface of cold boiled lava,
+       which we had seen from above last night. Even here, in every
+       crevice where a few grains of soil had collected, delicate
+       little ferns might be seen struggling for life, and
+       thrusting out their green fronds towards the light. It was
+       the most extraordinary walk imaginable over that vast plain
+       of lava, twisted and distorted into every conceivable shape
+       and form, according to the temperature it had originally
+       attained, and the rapidity with which it had cooled, its
+       surface, like half-molten glass, cracking and breaking
+       beneath our feet. Sometimes we came to a patch that looked
+       like the contents of a pot, suddenly petrified in the act of
+       boiling; sometimes the black iridescent lava had assumed the
+       form of waves, or more frequently of huge masses of rope,
+       twisted and coiled together; sometimes it was piled up like
+       a collection of organ-pipes, or had gathered into mounds and
+       cones of various dimensions. As we proceeded the lava became
+       hotter and hotter, and from every crack arose gaseous fumes,
+       affecting our noses and throats in a painful manner; till at
+       last, when we had to pass to leeward of the molten stream
+       flowing from the lake, the vapours almost choked us, and it
+       was with difficulty we continued to advance. The lava was
+       more glassy and transparent-looking, as if it had been fused
+       at a higher temperature than usual; and the crystals of
+       sulphur, alum, and other minerals, with which it abounded,
+       reflected the light in bright prismatic colours. In places
+       it was quite transparent, and we could see beneath it the
+       long streaks of a stringy kind of lava, like brown spun
+       glass, called 'P&eacute;l&eacute;'s hair.'</p>
+
+    <p>At last we reached the foot of the present crater, and
+    commenced the ascent of the outer wall. Many times the thin
+    crust gave way beneath our guide, and he had to retire
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 268<a name="Page_268"
+       id="Page_268"></a></span>quickly from the hot, blinding,
+       choking fumes that immediately burst forth. But we succeeded
+       in reaching the top; and then what a sight presented itself
+       to our astonished eyes! I could neither speak nor move at
+       first, but could only stand and gaze at the horrible
+       grandeur of the scene.</p>
+
+    <p>We were standing on the extreme edge of a precipice,
+    overhanging a lake of molten fire, a hundred feet below us, and
+    nearly a mile across. Dashing against the cliffs on the
+    opposite side, with a noise like the roar of a stormy ocean,
+    waves of blood-red, fiery, liquid lava hurled their billows
+    upon an iron-bound headland, and then rushed up the face of the
+    cliffs to toss their gory spray high in the air. The restless,
+    heaving lake boiled and bubbled, never remaining the same for
+    two minutes together. Its normal colour seemed to be a dull
+    dark red, covered with a thin grey scum, which every moment and
+    in every part swelled and cracked, and emitted fountains,
+    cascades, and whirlpools of yellow and red fire, while
+    sometimes one big golden river, sometimes four or five, flowed
+    across it. There was an island on one side of the lake, which
+    the fiery waves seemed to attack unceasingly with relentless
+    fury, as if bent on hurling it from its base. On the other side
+    was a large cavern, into which the burning mass rushed with a
+    loud roar, breaking down in its impetuous headlong career the
+    gigantic stalactites that overhung the mouth of the cave, and
+    flinging up the liquid material for the formation of fresh
+    ones.</p>
+
+    <p>It was all terribly grand, magnificently sublime; but no
+    words could adequately describe such a scene. The precipice on
+    which we were standing overhung the crater so much that it was
+    impossible to see what was going on immediately beneath; but
+    from the columns of smoke and vapour that arose, the flames and
+    sparks that constantly drove us back from the edge, it was easy
+    to imagine that there must have been two or three grand fiery
+    fountains below. As the sun set, and darkness enveloped the
+    scene, <span class="pagenum">Page 269<a name="Page_269"
+       id="Page_269"></a></span>it became more awful than ever. We
+       retired a little way from the brink, to breathe some fresh
+       air, and to try and eat the food we had brought with us; but
+       this was an impossibility. Every instant a fresh explosion
+       or glare made us jump up to survey the stupendous scene. The
+       violent struggles of the lava to escape from its fiery bed,
+       and the loud and awful noises by which they were at times
+       accompanied, suggested the idea that some imprisoned
+       monsters were trying to release themselves from their
+       bondage, with shrieks and groans, and cries of agony and
+       despair, at the futility of their efforts.</p>
+
+    <p>Sometimes there were at least seven spots on the borders of
+    the lake where the molten lava dashed up furiously against the
+    rocks&mdash;seven fire-fountains playing simultaneously. With
+    the increasing darkness the colours emitted by the glowing mass
+    became more and more wonderful, varying from the deepest jet
+    black to the palest grey, from darkest maroon, through cherry
+    and scarlet, to the most delicate pink, violet, and blue; from
+    the richest brown, through orange and yellow, to the lightest
+    straw-colour. And there was yet another shade, only describable
+    by the term 'molten-lava colour.' Even the smokes and vapours
+    were rendered beautiful by their borrowed lights and tints, and
+    the black peaks, pinnacles, and crags, which surrounded the
+    amphitheatre, formed a splendid and appropriate background.
+    Sometimes great pieces broke off and tumbled with a crash into
+    the burning lake, only to be remelted and thrown up anew. I had
+    for some time been feeling very hot and uncomfortable, and on
+    looking round the cause was at once apparent. Not two inches
+    beneath the surface, the grey lava on which we were standing
+    and sitting was red-hot. A stick thrust through it caught fire,
+    a piece of paper was immediately destroyed, and the gentlemen
+    found the heat from the crevices so great that they could not
+    approach near enough to light their pipes.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 270<a name="Page_270"
+       id="Page_270"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>One more long last look, and then we turned our faces away
+    from the scene that had enthralled us for so many hours. The
+    whole of the lava we had crossed, in the extinct crater, was
+    now aglow in many patches, and in all directions flames were
+    bursting forth, fresh lava was flowing, and steam and smoke
+    were issuing from the surface. It was a toilsome journey back
+    again, walking as we did in single file, and obeying the strict
+    injunctions of our head guide to follow him closely, and to
+    tread exactly in his footsteps. On the whole it was easier by
+    night than by day to distinguish the route to be taken, as we
+    could now see the dangers that before we could only feel; and
+    many were the fiery crevices we stepped over or jumped across.
+    Once I slipped, and my foot sank through the thin crust. Sparks
+    issued from the ground, and the stick on which I leant caught
+    fire before I could fairly recover myself.</p>
+
+    <p>Either from the effects of the unaccustomed exercise after
+    our long voyage, or from the intense excitement of the novel
+    scene, combined with the gaseous exhalations from the lava, my
+    strength began to fail, and before reaching the side of the
+    crater I felt quite exhausted. I struggled on at short
+    intervals, however, collapsing several times and fainting away
+    twice; but at last I had fairly to give in, and to allow myself
+    to be ignominiously carried up the steep precipice to the
+    'Volcano House' on a chair, which the guides went to fetch for
+    me.</p>
+
+    <p>It was half-past eleven when we once more found ourselves
+    beneath Mr. Kane's hospitable roof; he had expected us to
+    return at nine o'clock, and was beginning to feel anxious about
+    us.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, December 25th (Christmas Day)</i>.&mdash;Turning
+    in last night was the work of a very few minutes, and this
+    morning I awoke perfectly refreshed and ready to appreciate
+    anew the wonders of the prospect that met my eyes. The pillar
+    of fire was still distinctly visible when I looked out from my
+    window, though it was not so bright as when
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 271<a name="Page_271"
+       id="Page_271"></a></span> I had last seen it; but even as I
+       looked it began to fade, and gradually disappeared. At the
+       same moment a river of glowing lava issued from the side of
+       the bank we had climbed with so much difficulty yesterday,
+       and slowly but surely overflowed the ground we had walked
+       over. I woke Tom, and you may imagine the feelings with
+       which we gazed upon this startling phenomenon, which, had it
+       occurred a few hours earlier, might have caused the
+       destruction of the whole party. If our expedition had been
+       made to-day instead of yesterday, we should certainly have
+       had to proceed by a different route to the crater, and
+       should have looked down on the lake of fire from a different
+       spot.</p>
+
+    <p>I cannot hope that in my attempt to give you some idea of
+    Kilauea as we beheld it, I shall be successful in conveying
+    more than a very faint impression of its glories. I feel that
+    my description is so utterly inadequate, that, were it not for
+    the space, I should be tempted to send you in full the
+    experiences of previous visitors, as narrated in Miss Bird's
+    'Six Months in the Sandwich Islands,' and Mr. Bodham Whetham's
+    'Pearls of the Pacific.' The account contained in the former
+    work I had read before arriving here; the latter I enjoyed at
+    the 'Volcano House.' Both are well worth reading by any one who
+    feels an interest in the subject.</p>
+
+    <p>It would, I think, be difficult to imagine a more
+    interesting and exciting mode of spending Christmas Eve than
+    yesterday has taught us, or a stranger situation in which to
+    exchange our Christmas greetings than beneath the grass roof of
+    an inn on the edge of a volcano in the remote Sandwich Islands.
+    They were certainly rendered none the less cordial and sincere
+    by the novelty of our position, and I think we are all rather
+    glad not to have in prospect the inevitable feastings and
+    ceremonies, without which it seems to be impossible to
+    commemorate this season in England. If we had seen nothing but
+    Kilauea since we <span class="pagenum">Page
+    272<a name="Page_272"
+       id="Page_272"></a></span>left home, we should have been well
+       rewarded for our long voyage.</p>
+
+    <p>At six o'clock we were dressed and packed. Breakfast
+    followed at half-past, and at seven we were prepared for a
+    start. Our kind, active host, and his wife and baby, all came
+    out to see us off. The canter over the dewy grass, in the fresh
+    morning air, was most invigorating. It was evident that no one
+    had passed along the road since Saturday night, for we picked
+    up several waifs and strays dropped in the dark on our way
+    up&mdash;a whip, a stirrup, mackintosh hood, &amp;c.</p>
+
+    <p>By half-past ten we had reached the 'Half-way House,' where
+    we were not expected so early, and where we had ample
+    opportunity to observe the native ways of living, while waiting
+    for our midday meal&mdash;an uninteresting mess of stewed fowl
+    and <i>taro</i>, washed down with weak tea. After it was over I
+    made an unsuccessful attempt to induce the woman of the house
+    to part with her orange-coloured <i>lei</i>. I bought some
+    <i>tappa</i> and mallets, however, with some of the markers
+    used in colouring the cloth, and a few gourds and calabashes,
+    forming part of the household furniture. While the horses were
+    being saddled preparatory to our departure, Mabelle and I went
+    to another cottage close by, to see the mother of the baby that
+    had been born while we were here on Saturday. She was not at
+    home; but we afterwards found her playing cards with some of
+    her friends in a neighbouring hut. Quite a large party of many
+    natives were gathered together, not the least cheerful of whom
+    was the young mother whose case had interested me so much.</p>
+
+    <p>The rest of the ride down to Hilo was as dull and monotonous
+    as our upward journey had been, although, in order to enable us
+    to get over it as quickly as possible, fresh horses had been
+    sent to meet us. At last we reached the pier, where we found
+    the usual little crowd waiting to see us off. The girls who had
+    followed us when we first <span class="pagenum">Page
+    273<a name="Page_273"
+       id="Page_273"></a></span>landed came forward shyly when they
+       thought they were unobserved, and again encircled me with
+       <i>leis</i> of gay and fragrant flowers. The custom of
+       decorating themselves with wreaths on every possible
+       occasion is in my eyes a charming one, and I like the
+       inhabitants of Polynesia for their love of flowers. They are
+       as necessary to them as the air they breathe, and I think
+       the missionaries make a mistake in endeavouring to repress
+       so innocent and natural a taste.</p>
+
+    <p>The whole town was <i>en f&ecirc;te</i> to-day. Natives were
+    riding about in pairs, in the cleanest of bright cotton dresses
+    and the freshest of <i>leis</i> and garlands. Our own men from
+    the yacht contributed not a little to the gaiety of the scene.
+    They were all on shore, and the greater part of them were
+    galloping about on horseback, tumbling off, scrambling on
+    again, laughing, flirting, joking, and enjoying themselves
+    generally after a fashion peculiar to English sailors. As far
+    as we know the only evil result of all this merriment was that
+    the doctor received a good many applications for diachylon
+    plaster in the course of the evening, to repair various
+    'abrasions of the cuticle,' as he expressed it.</p>
+
+    <p>I think at least half the population of Hilo had been on
+    board the yacht in the course of the day, as a Christmas treat.
+    At last we took a boat and went off too, accompanied by Mr.
+    Lyman. The appearance of the 'Sunbeam' from the shore was very
+    gay, and as we approached it became more festive still. All her
+    masts were tipped with sugar-canes in bloom. Her stern was
+    adorned with flowers, and in the arms of the figure-head was a
+    large bouquet. She was surrounded with boats, the occupants of
+    which cheered us heartily as we rowed alongside. The gangway
+    was decorated with flowers, and surmounted by a triumphal arch,
+    on which were inscribed 'Welcome Home,' 'A Merry Christmas,' 'A
+    Happy New Year,' and other good wishes. The whole deck was
+    festooned with tropical plants and <span class="pagenum">Page
+    274<a name="Page_274"
+       id="Page_274"></a></span>flowers, and the decorations of the
+       cabins were even more beautiful and elaborate. I believe all
+       hands had been hard at work ever since we left to produce
+       this wonderful effect, and every garden in Hilo had
+       furnished a contribution to please and surprise us on our
+       return.</p>
+
+    <p>The choir from Hilo came out in boats in the evening, sang
+    all sorts of songs, sacred and secular, and cheered everybody
+    till they were hoarse. After this, having had a cold dinner, in
+    order to save trouble, and having duly drunk the health of our
+    friends at home, we all adjourned to the saloon, to assist in
+    the distribution of some Christmas presents, a ceremony which
+    afforded great delight to the children, and which was equally
+    pleasing to the elder people and to the crew, if one may judge
+    from their behaviour on the occasion.</p>
+
+    <p>Then we sat on deck, gazing at the cloud of fire over
+    Kilauea, and wondering if the appearance of the crater could
+    ever be grander than it was last night, when we were standing
+    on its brim.</p>
+
+    <p>So ended Christmas Day, 1876, at Hilo, in Hawaii. God grant
+    that there may be many more as pleasant for us in store in the
+    future!</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 275<a name="Page_275"
+       id="Page_275"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XVI"
+       id="CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">HAWAIIAN SPORTS.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>In wrestling nimble, and in running
+            swift</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>In shooting steady,
+            and in swimming strong</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Well
+            made to strike, to leap, to throw, to
+            lift</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>And all the sports that
+            shepherds are among</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, December 26th</i>.&mdash;We went ashore at eight
+    o'clock, after an early cup of coffee, and found Mr. Lyman
+    already waiting for us. Two baggage-mules were sent off with
+    the photographic apparatus, and all the materials for
+    breakfast, to the Rainbow Falls, where the children are looking
+    forward with intense glee to boiling their own kettle, poaching
+    eggs, and trying other cooking experiments.</p>
+
+    <p>Before setting out for the Falls ourselves, we went to see
+    the national sport of surf-swimming, for their skill in which
+    the Hawaiians are so justly famed.</p>
+
+    <p>The natives have many other games of which they are very
+    fond, and which they play with great skill, including
+    spear-throwing, transfixing an object with a dart, <i>kona</i>,
+    an elaborate kind of draughts, and <i>talu</i>, which consists
+    in hiding a small stone under one of five pieces of cloth,
+    placed in front of the players. One hides the stone, and the
+    others have to guess where it is; and it generally happens
+    that, however dexterously the hider may put his arm beneath the
+    cloth, and dodge about from one piece to another, a clever
+    player will be able to tell, by the movement of the muscles of
+    the upper part of his arm, when his fingers relax their hold of
+    the stone. Another game, called <i>parua</i>, is very like the
+    Canadian sport of 'tobogging,' only <span class="pagenum">Page
+    276<a name="Page_276"
+       id="Page_276"></a></span>that it is carried on on the grass
+       instead of on the snow. The performers stand bolt upright on
+       a narrow plank, turned up in front, and steered with a sort
+       of long paddle. They go to the top of a hill or mountain,
+       and rush down the steep, grassy, sunburnt slopes at a
+       tremendous pace, keeping their balance in a wonderful
+       manner. There is also a very popular amusement, called
+       <i>pah&eacute;</i>, requiring a specially prepared smooth
+       floor, along which the javelins of the players glide like
+       snakes. On the same floor they also play at another game,
+       called <i>maita</i>, or <i>uru maita</i>. Two sticks, only a
+       few inches apart, are stuck into the ground, and at a
+       distance of thirty or forty yards the players strive to
+       throw a stone between them. The <i>uru</i> which they use
+       for the purpose is a hard circular stone, three or four
+       inches in diameter, and an inch in thickness at the edge,
+       but thicker in the middle.</p>
+
+    <p>Mr. Ellis, in his 'Polynesian Researches,' states that
+    'these stones are finely polished, highly valued, and carefully
+    preserved, being always oiled or wrapped up in native cloth
+    after having been used. The people are, if possible, more fond
+    of this game than of the <i>pah&eacute;</i>, and the
+    inhabitants of a district not unfrequently challenge the people
+    of the whole island, or the natives of one island those of all
+    the others, to bring a man who shall try his skill with some
+    favourite player of their own district or island. On such
+    occasions seven or eight thousand people, men and women, with
+    their chiefs and chiefesses, assemble to witness the sport,
+    which, as well as the <i>pah&eacute;</i>, is often continued
+    for hours together.'</p>
+
+    <p>With bows and arrows they are as clever as all savages, and
+    wonderfully good shots, attempting many wonderful feats. They
+    are swift as deer, when they choose, though somewhat lazy and
+    indolent. All the kings and chiefs have been special adepts in
+    the invigorating pastime of surf-swimming, and the present
+    king's sisters are considered first-rate hands at it. The
+    performers begin by swimming out <span class="pagenum">Page
+    277<a name="Page_277"
+       id="Page_277"></a></span> into the bay, and diving under the
+       huge Pacific rollers, pushing their surf-boards&mdash;flat
+       pieces of wood, about four feet long by two wide, pointed at
+       each end&mdash;edgewise before them. For the return journey
+       they select a large wave; and then, either sitting,
+       kneeling, or standing on their boards, rush in shorewards
+       with the speed of a racehorse, on the curling crest of the
+       monster, enveloped in foarn and spray, and holding on, as it
+       were, by the milk-white manes of their furious coursers. It
+       looked a most enjoyable amusement, and I should think that,
+       to a powerful swimmer, with plenty of pluck, the feat is not
+       difficult of accomplishment. The natives here are almost
+       amphibious. They played all sorts of tricks in the water,
+       some of the performers being quite tiny boys. Four strong
+       rowers took a whale-boat out into the worst surf, and then,
+       steering her by means of a large oar, brought her safely
+       back to the shore on the top of a huge wave.</p>
+
+    <p>After the conclusion of this novel entertainment, we all
+    proceeded on horseback to the Falls, Baby going in front of
+    Tom, and Muriel riding with Mr. Freer. After a couple of miles
+    we dismounted, and had a short walk through grass and ferns to
+    a pretty double waterfall, tumbling over a cliff, about 100
+    feet high, into a glassy pool of the river beneath. It fell in
+    front of a fern-filled black lava cavern, over which a rainbow
+    generally hangs. As it was too wet to sit on the grass after
+    the rain, we took possession of the verandah of a native house,
+    commanding a fine view of the bay and town of Hilo. The hot
+    coffee and eggs were a great success eventually, though the
+    smoke from the wood fire nearly suffocated us in the process of
+    cooking. Excellent also was some grey mullet, brought to us
+    alive, and cooked native fashion,&mdash;wrapped up in <i>ti</i>
+    leaves, and put into a hole in the ground.</p>
+
+    <p>After taking a few photographs it was time to return; and we
+    next went to a pretty garden, which we had seen
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 278<a name="Page_278"
+       id="Page_278"></a></span>on the night of our arrival, and,
+       tying up our horses outside, walked across it to the banks
+       of the river. Here we found a large party assembled,
+       watching half the population of Hilo disporting themselves
+       in, upon, and beneath the water. They climbed the almost
+       perpendicular rocks on the opposite side of the stream, took
+       headers, and footers, and siders from any height under
+       five-and-twenty feet, dived, swam in every conceivable
+       attitude, and without any apparent exertion, deep under the
+       water, or upon its surface. But all this was only a
+       preparation for the special sight we had come to see. Two
+       natives were to jump from a precipice, 100 feet high, into
+       the river below, clearing on their way a rock which
+       projected some twenty feet from the face of the cliff, at
+       about the same distance from the summit. The two men, tall,
+       strong, and sinewy, suddenly appeared against the sky-line,
+       far above our heads, their long hair bound back by a wreath
+       of leaves and flowers, while another garland encircled their
+       waists. Having measured their distance with an eagle's
+       glance, they disappeared from our sight, in order to take a
+       run and acquire the necessary impetus. Every breath was held
+       for a moment, till one of the men reappeared, took a bound
+       from the edge of the rock, turned over in mid-air, and
+       disappeared feet foremost into the pool beneath, to emerge
+       almost immediately, and to climb the sunny bank as quietly
+       as if he had done nothing very wonderful. His companion
+       followed, and then the two clambered up to the twenty-feet
+       projection, to clear which they had had to take such a run
+       the first time, and once more plunged into the pool below.
+       The feat was of course an easier one than the first; but
+       still a leap of eighty feet is no light matter. A third
+       native, who joined them in this exploit, gave one quite a
+       turn as he twisted in his downward jump; but he also
+       alighted in the water feet foremost, and bobbed up again
+       directly, like a cork. He was quite a young man, and we
+       afterwards heard that he had broken several ribs
+       <span class="pagenum">Page 279<a name="Page_279"
+       id="Page_279"></a></span> not more than a year ago, and had
+       been laid up for six months in the hospital.</p>
+
+    <p>We now moved our position a little higher up the river, to
+    the Falls, over which the men, gliding down the shallow rapids
+    above, in a sitting posture, allowed themselves to be carried.
+    It looked a pleasant and easy feat, and was afterwards
+    performed by many of the natives in all sorts of ways. Two or
+    three of them would hold each other's shoulders, forming a
+    child's train, or some would get on the backs of their
+    companions, while others descended singly in a variety of
+    attitudes. At last a young girl was also persuaded to attempt
+    the feat. She looked very pretty as she started, in her white
+    chemise and bright garland, and prettier still when she emerged
+    from the white foam beneath the fall, and swam along far below
+    the surface of the clear water, with her long black hair
+    streaming out behind her.</p>
+
+    <p>No description can give you any idea what an animated and
+    extraordinary scene it was altogether. While our accounts were
+    being settled, preparatory to our departure, I occupied myself
+    in looking at some <i>kahilis</i> and feather <i>leis.</i> The
+    yellow ones, either of Oo or Mamo feathers, only found in this
+    island, are always scarce, as the use of them is a prerogative
+    of royalty and nobility. Just now it is almost impossible to
+    obtain one, all the feathers being '<i>tabu</i>,' to make a
+    royal cloak for Ruth, half-sister of Kamehameha V., and
+    governess of Hawaii. Mamo feathers are generally worth a dollar
+    a piece, and a good <i>lei</i> or loose necklace costs about
+    five hundred dollars. <i>Kahilis</i> are also an emblem of
+    rank, <span class="pagenum">Page 280<a name="Page_280"
+       id="Page_280"></a></span>though many people use them as
+       ornaments in their houses. They are rather like
+       feather-brooms, two or three feet long, and three or four
+       inches across, made of all sorts of feathers, tastefully
+       interwoven. I bought one, and a couple of ordinary
+       <i>leis</i>, which were all I could procure. But, alas! too
+       soon all was over, and time for us to go on board.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_294"
+             id="Illus_294"></a> <img src="images/t_294.jpg"
+             width="181"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Feather Necklace"
+             title="Illustration: Feather Necklace" /><br />
+        <b>Feather Necklace</b><br />
+        <a href="images/294.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>On our way off to the yacht we met one of the large double
+    canoes coming in under sail from a neighbouring island. It
+    consisted of two canoes lashed together, with a sort of basket
+    dropped into the water between them, to enable them to carry
+    their fish alive. They are not very common now, and we were
+    therefore fortunate in meeting with one. Mr. Lyman made the men
+    in charge turn her round, so as to afford us an opportunity of
+    thoroughly examining her. In the time of Kamehameha there was a
+    fleet of 10,000 of these canoes, and the king used to send them
+    out in the roughest weather, and make them perform all sorts of
+    manoeuvres.</p>
+
+    <p>We found the yacht in the usual state of confusion
+    incidental to a fresh departure, but everything was soon
+    reduced to order, and off we started to steam and sail round
+    the north end of the island, but we could not afford time to
+    visit the place of Captain Cook's death and burial in
+    Keelakeakua Bay. I believe there is not a great deal to see,
+    however, and the spot is chiefly interesting from its
+    associations. For many years a copper plate, fixed to a
+    cocoa-nut tree, marked the spot where Cook fell, but this has
+    now been replaced by a monument, the cost of which was defrayed
+    by subscriptions at Honolulu. Maui is, I believe, a charming
+    place, containing many fine plantations, and several
+    gentlemen's estates, laid out in the English style.
+    Unfortunately, time forbids our accepting some invitations we
+    have received to visit the island, where a great many
+    interesting excursions may be made.</p>
+
+    <p>At Kahoolaue there does not seem much to be seen. It was
+    purchased some years ago, and pays well as a sheep-run.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 281<a name="Page_281"
+       id="Page_281"></a></span>Lauai, the next island, is scarcely
+       inhabited, and its scenery is not remarkable.</p>
+
+    <p>A sad interest attaches to the island of Molokai, which is
+    situated midway between Maui and Oahu. It is the leper
+    settlement, and to it all the victims of this terrible,
+    loathsome, and incurable disease, unhappily so prevalent in the
+    Hawaiian archipelago, are sent, in order to prevent the spread
+    of the contagion. They are well cared for and looked after in
+    every way; but their life, separated as they inevitably are
+    from all they hold most dear, and with no prospect before them
+    but that of a slow and cruel death, must indeed be a miserable
+    one. In Molokai there are many tiny children, fatherless and
+    motherless, parents without children, husbands without wives,
+    wives without husbands, 'all condemned.' as Miss Bird says, 'to
+    watch the repulsive steps by which each of their doomed fellows
+    goes down to a loathsome death, knowing that by the same they
+    too must pass.' A French priest has nobly devoted himself to
+    the religious and secular instruction of the lepers, and up to
+    the present time has enjoyed complete immunity from the
+    disease; but even if he escapes this danger, he can
+    <i>never</i> return to his country and friends. When one thinks
+    what that implies, and to what a death in life he has condemned
+    himself for the sake of others, it seems impossible to doubt
+    that he will indeed reap a rich reward hereafter.</p>
+
+    <p>At two o'clock we saw Diamond Head, the easternmost headland
+    of Oahu, rising from the sea. By four o'clock we were abreast
+    of it, and steaming along the coast. The cape itself rises
+    grandly from the midst of a grove of cocoa-nuts, and the shore
+    all along, with the sharp high mountains of the Pali as a
+    background, is fine and picturesque. A coral reef stretches far
+    into the sea, and outside this we lay waiting for a pilot to
+    take us into Honolulu Harbour.</p>
+
+    <p>It was a long business mooring us by hawsers, from our stem
+    and stern, but we were at last safely secured in a
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 282<a name="Page_282"
+       id="Page_282"></a></span>convenient place, a short distance
+       from the shore, and where we should be refreshed by the sea
+       breeze and the land breeze alternately. It was six o'clock,
+       and nearly dark, when we reached the shore; the town seemed
+       entirely deserted; all the little wooden houses were shut
+       up, and there were no lights visible. The post-office was
+       closed, but it was a terrible blow to hear there were no
+       letters for us, though we still hoped that there might be
+       some at the British Consulate.</p>
+
+    <p>After a short time we returned on board the yacht in time
+    for a late dinner. The first lieutenant of H.M.S.
+    'Fant&ocirc;me' came on board to pay us a visit during the
+    evening, and told us all the latest English and American news,
+    lending us some files of English papers&mdash;a great treat,
+    but no compensation for our disappointment about the
+    letters.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, December 28th</i>.&mdash;Tom and I went ashore
+    at seven o'clock to make arrangements for repairing our
+    mizen-sail. We soon found a sailmaker, who promised to set all
+    hands to work and complete the job as quickly as possible.
+    Being detained by a heavy shower of rain, we occupied the time
+    in a gossip about Honolulu and its sayings and doings. When the
+    shower was over, we walked through the town, which is clean and
+    tidy, being laid out in squares, after the American style. The
+    houses are all of wood, and generally have verandahs
+    overhanging the street. They are seldom more than one story
+    high, and nearly all have a little greenery about them.</p>
+
+    <p>We returned to the yacht for breakfast, and, having heard
+    that no sharks ever came into the long, narrow bay, were able
+    to enjoy, in perfect peace of mind, the luxury of a bath
+    overboard. It is a great pity that in the tropics, where
+    bathing is such a delightful occupation, and where one might
+    swim and paddle about for hours without fear of getting cold,
+    it is often impossible even to enter the water for fear of the
+    sharks. The natives are such expert <span class="pagenum">Page
+    283<a name="Page_283"
+       id="Page_283"></a></span> swimmers that they do not seem to
+       think much of this danger. As the shark turns on his back to
+       take a bite at them, they dive underneath him, and he snaps
+       his jaws on emptiness. In fact, sometimes the swimmer will
+       take advantage of the opportunity to stab his enemy as he
+       passes beneath him.</p>
+
+    <p>Scarcely was breakfast over when we were inundated with
+    visitors, who kindly came to see what they could do for us to
+    make our stay agreeable. We lunched on shore, and afterwards
+    went to the new Government buildings and museum. From thence we
+    strolled to the various shops where 'curios' and photographs
+    are to be bought, and collected a goodly store, returning on
+    board the yacht to find more visitors.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_298"
+             id="Illus_298"></a> <img src="images/298.gif"
+             width="362"
+             height="400"
+             alt="Illustration: War Necklace"
+             title="Illustration: War Necklace" /><br />
+        <b>War Necklace</b> <a name="FNanchor_13_13"
+             id="FNanchor_13_13"></a> <a href="#Footnote_13_13"
+             class="fnanchor">[13]</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_13_13"
+           id="Footnote_13_13"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a>
+           The accompanying sketch is from a necklace that belonged
+           to King Kamehameha I., and was given to me by one of his
+           descendants.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We lunched on shore, and afterwards went with Mr.
+    Chambr&eacute;, navigating-lieutenant of the 'Fant&ocirc;me,'
+    to the new Government buildings. There we found an excellent
+    English library, and an interesting collection of books printed
+    in English and Hawaiian, on alternate pages, including
+    alphabets, grammars, the old familiar nursery tales, &amp;c.
+    There is also a good, though small museum, containing specimens
+    of beautiful corals, shells, seaweeds, and fossils; all the
+    ancient native weapons, such as bows, arrows, swords, and
+    spears&mdash;now, alas! no longer
+    procurable&mdash;sling-stones, and stones used in games,
+    back-scratchers, hair-ornaments made of sharks' teeth,
+    tortoise-shell cups and spoons, calabashes and bowls. There
+    were some most interesting though somewhat horrible necklaces
+    made of hundreds of braids of <span class="pagenum">Page
+    284<a name="Page_284"
+       id="Page_284"></a></span>human hair cut from the heads of
+       victims slain by the chiefs themselves; from these braids
+       was suspended a monstrous hook carved from a large whale's
+       tooth, called a Paloola, regarded by the natives as a sort
+       of idol. There are models of ancient and modern
+       canoes&mdash;the difference between which is not very
+       great,&mdash;paddles, inlaid with mother-of-pearl, old
+       war-masks, and dresses still in use in the less frequented
+       islands, anklets of human teeth, and many other things far
+       too numerous to mention. The most interesting of all were,
+       perhaps, the old feather war cloaks, like the ancient
+       <i>togas</i> of the Romans. They are made of thousands of
+       yellow, red, and black feathers, of the <i>oo, niamo,</i>
+       and <i>eine</i>, taken singly and fastened into a sort of
+       network of string, so as to form a solid fabric, like the
+       richest velvet or plush, that glitters like gold in the
+       sunlight. The helmets, made of the same feathers, but worked
+       on to a frame of perfect Grecian shape, similar to those
+       seen in the oldest statuary or on the Elgin marbles, are
+       even more artistic and elegant. Whence came the idea and
+       design? Untutored savages could scarcely have evolved them
+       out of their own heads. Some element of civilisation, and of
+       highly artistic civilisation too, must
+       <span class="pagenum">Page 285<a name="Page_285"
+       id="Page_285"></a></span>surely have existed among them at
+       some remote period of their history.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_299"
+             id="Illus_299"></a> <img src="images/t_299.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="154"
+             alt="Illustration: Ancient War Masks and Costumes from the Museum at Honolulu"
+             title="Illustration: Ancient War Masks and Costumes from the Museum at Honolulu" />
+        <br />
+        <b>Ancient War Masks and Costumes<br />
+         from the Museum at Honolulu</b><br />
+        <a href="images/299.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, December 29th</i>.&mdash;We had a bathe overboard
+    early this morning. The children were ashore at half-past nine,
+    to go and spend the day at a friend's, at the top of the Nuuanu
+    Avenue, on the road to the Pali.</p>
+
+    <p>The King's two sisters came to call on us in the morning
+    with their respective husbands. We had a great many visitors
+    all the morning, till it was time to go to lunch; after which
+    we went to call on the Princess Likelike, who drove me to
+    Waikiki, to see her sister, the Princess Kamakaeha, at her
+    country residence, a very large native grass house, with an
+    enormous verandah. Both ladies are married to Englishmen, and
+    live partly in English style. Inside there is a spacious
+    drawing-room, well furnished, with pictures and nick-nacks,
+    where we spent a pleasant half-hour in the gloaming. The
+    sunset, over Diamond Head, and the sea, which was just visible
+    through the cocoa-nut trees, was splendid. Both the Princesses
+    were as kind as they could be. The royal family have formed
+    quite a little colony here. The King's house is next door, and
+    that of the Prince Leleiohoku is not far off. They all come
+    here in the most unpretending way possible, and amuse
+    themselves by fishing and bathing.</p>
+
+    <p>It had been quite dark for some time, when the Princess
+    Likelike dropped me at the hotel at half-past seven, where I
+    found Tom and Mr. Freer waiting for me. We had a quiet dinner,
+    and then went for a stroll. It was a fine clear night, with an
+    almost full moon. The streets were full of equestrians, riding
+    about in pairs, for there was to be a great riding party up to
+    the Pali to-night, the <i>rendezvous</i> for which was in Emma
+    Square. Every lady had to select and bring with her an
+    attendant cavalier<a name="FNanchor_14_14"
+       id="FNanchor_14_14">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_14_14"
+       class="fnanchor">[14]</a></p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_14_14"
+           id="Footnote_14_14"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a>
+           The event was thus announced in the 'Hawaiian
+           Gazette:'&mdash;'THE LAST CHANCE.&mdash;We are informed
+           that a riding party will come off on Friday evening,
+           when all the young ladies who desire to participate are
+           expected to be on hand, each with the cavalier whom she
+           may invite. As leap-year is drawing to a close it is
+           expected that this opportunity will be extensively
+           embraced. Place of rendezvous, Emma Square: time,
+           seven-thirty; Luminary for the occasion, a full
+           moon.'</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 286<a name="Page_286"
+       id="Page_286"></a></span>There are no side-saddles in any of
+       these islands; all the ladies ride like men, and sit their
+       horses very well. They wear long riding-dresses, cleverly
+       and elegantly adapted to the exigencies of the situation,
+       generally of some light material, and of <i>very</i> bright
+       colours. The effect of a large party galloping along, with
+       wreaths and garlands in their hats and necks, and with their
+       long skirts floating in the wind, is therefore picturesque
+       and strange in the extreme.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, December 30th</i>.&mdash;Mabelle, Muriel, and
+    I, were up early, and went off to the coral-reef before seven
+    in the 'Flash.' It is very beautiful, but not so fine as those
+    we have already seen at Tahiti and other South Sea Islands. We
+    collected four or the distinct varieties of coral, and saw many
+    marvellous creatures swimming about or sticking to the rocks.
+    There were several canoes full of natives fishing, who appeared
+    highly amused when we ran aground on a coral tree, as happened
+    more than once. It was a pleasant way of spending the early
+    morning in the bright sunshine, peering into the dark blue and
+    light green depths below.</p>
+
+    <p>Breakfast was ready by the time we returned on board, and
+    soon afterwards I went on shore to pay some visits and to do
+    some shopping. We went first to the fish-market, which
+    presented a most animated scene, owing not only to the
+    abundance of the dead produce of air, earth, and sea, which it
+    contained, but to the large number of gaily attired
+    purchasers.</p>
+
+    <p>Saturday is a half-holiday in Oahu, and all the plantation
+    and mill hands came galloping into Honolulu on horseback,
+    chattering and laughing, dressed in the brightest colours, and
+    covered with flowers. The latter are not so
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 287<a name="Page_287"
+       id="Page_287"></a></span>plentiful nor so beautiful as in
+       Tahiti, but still, to our English eyes, they appear very
+       choice. For fruit, too, we have been spoilt in the South
+       Seas. The fish-market here, however, is unrivalled.</p>
+
+    <p>Fish&mdash;raw or cooked&mdash;is the staple food of the
+    inhabitants, and almost everybody we saw had half-a-dozen or
+    more brilliant members of the finny tribe, wrapped up in fresh
+    green banana leaves, ready to carry home. Shrimps are abundant
+    and good. They are caught both in salt and fresh water, and the
+    natives generally eat them alive, putting them into their
+    mouths, ana either letting them hop down their throats, or
+    crushing them between their teeth while they are still
+    wriggling about. It looks a very nasty thing to do, but, after
+    all, it is not much worse than our eating oysters alive.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_302"
+             id="Illus_302"></a> <img src="images/t_302.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="203"
+             alt="Illustration: Chalcedon Imperator"
+             title="Illustration: Chalcedon Imperator" /><br />
+        <b>Chalcedon Imperator</b><br />
+        <a href="images/302.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>From the fish-market we went to the prison, a large and
+    apparently admirably managed establishment, built of stone, and
+    overlooking the harbour. After a pleasant drive along shady
+    fragrant roads, we returned to Emma Square, to hear the
+    excellent performance of the Saturday afternoon
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 288<a name="Page_288"
+       id="Page_288"></a></span>band. There was a good assemblage
+       of people, on horseback, in carriages, and on foot, and
+       crowds of children, all more or less white, languid, and
+       sickly-looking. Poor mites! I suppose the climate is too hot
+       for European constitutions. Still, they abound among the
+       foreigners, while the natives are gradually, but surely,
+       dying out. Among the whole royal family there is only one
+       child, a dear little girl of rather more than a year old.
+       Princess Kauilani ('Sent from Heaven') she is always called,
+       though she has a very long string of additional names. She
+       is heiress-presumptive to the throne, and is thought a good
+       deal of by everybody. Among twenty of the highest chiefs'
+       families there is only one baby. On the other hand, all the
+       foreign consuls, ministers, missionaries, and other white
+       residents, appear to have an average of at least half a
+       dozen in each family.</p>
+
+    <p>After the performance was over, we walked to the Princess
+    Likelike's house, where we were entertained at a <i>poi</i>
+    supper. The garden was illuminated, the band played and a choir
+    sang alternately, while everybody sat out in the verandah, or
+    strolled about the garden, or did what they liked best. Prince
+    Leleiohoku took me in to supper, which was served in the native
+    fashion, in calabashes and on leaves, laid on mats on the
+    floor, in the same manner as the feast at Tahiti. The walls of
+    the dining-room were made of palm-leaves and bananas, and the
+    roof was composed of the standards of the various members of
+    the royal family, gracefully draped. At one end of the long
+    table, where the Prince and I sat, there was his special royal
+    standard, as heir-apparent, and just behind us were stationed a
+    couple of women, with two large and handsome <i>kahilis</i>,
+    which they waved incessantly backwards and forwards. The viands
+    were much the same as at Tahiti&mdash;raw seaweed, which was
+    eaten with each mouthful, being substituted for the chopped
+    cocoa-nut and salt-water. The carved <i>koa</i> bowls, which
+    were in constant requisition as finger-glasses,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 289<a name="Page_289"
+       id="Page_289"></a></span> were specially elegant and
+       useful-looking articles. <i>Poi</i> is generally eaten from
+       a bowl placed between two people, by dipping three fingers
+       into it, giving them a twirl round, and then sucking them.
+       It sounds rather nasty; but, as a matter of fact, it is so
+       glutinous a mixture that you really only touch the particles
+       that stick to your fingers. The latter you wash after each
+       mouthful, so that there is nothing so very dreadful about it
+       after all. There was a quantity of raw fish, which I did not
+       touch, but which some of our party thought most excellent,
+       besides dried and cooked fish, which seemed very good, fried
+       candle-nuts, baked pig, and many other delicacies. We could
+       get however, nothing to drink. After supper, we returned to
+       the house, where we found an abundance of champagne and
+       other wines, cakes, and biscuits.</p>
+
+    <p>About twelve o'clock we thought it was time to say good-bye,
+    as it was Saturday night. Beneath a brilliant full moon the
+    drive to the wharf and row off in the boat were delightful.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, December 31st</i>.&mdash;I was on deck at six
+    o'clock, and saw what I had often heard about&mdash;a team of
+    twenty oxen, driven by a man in a cart, drawing by means of a
+    rope, about a quarter of a mile in length, a large ship through
+    the opening in the reef, the man and cattle being upon the
+    coral<a name="FNanchor_15_15"
+       id="FNanchor_15_15">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_15_15"
+       class="fnanchor">[15]</a></p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_15_15"
+           id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">
+        [15]</span></a> The following notice appeared in the
+        <i>Hawaiian Gazette</i> recently: 'TO BE
+        REPAIRED.&mdash;That staunch little craft the "Pele," which
+        Capt. Brown has for so long a time successfully commanded,
+        is now being hauled up for the purpose of repairs. She will
+        probably be laid up for six or eight weeks, and in the
+        meantime the antique plan of towing vessels in and out of
+        the harbour with teams of oxen on the reef will be
+        resumed.'</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>About half-past eight Mabelle and I were just going
+    overboard for a swim, when I thought I saw the upper fin of an
+    old familiar enemy, and directly afterwards the cry was echoed
+    all over the ship, 'A shark, a shark!' It was a
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 290<a name="Page_290"
+       id="Page_290"></a></span>ground shark, and very nearly
+       aground in the shallow water. They say this is the worst
+       kind of all, and on making inquiry I was told that the
+       safest way to enjoy a dip here is to bathe with a number of
+       other people. The splashing and noise made by a whole ship's
+       company frighten the sharks away. This discovery puts an end
+       therefore to our hopes of enjoying an occasional peaceful
+       bath.</p>
+
+    <p>We went to eleven o'clock service at the cathedral. It is a
+    pleasant small building, beautifully cool, and well adapted to
+    this climate. The Bishop was unfortunately away, but the
+    service was well performed.</p>
+
+    <p>Later, Tom read the evening service to the men, and we
+    afterwards landed and dined late at the hotel; so late, indeed,
+    that we could hardly get anything to eat, and they began to
+    shut up the room and put out the lights before we had half
+    done. Luckily, we were a large party, and an indignant protest
+    and threatened appeal to the landlord brought the Chinese
+    waiters to their senses, and induced them to grant us half an
+    hour's law. On our way back to the boat, the streets looked
+    much more lively than they had hitherto done, being full of
+    people returning from rides, drives, and excursions into the
+    country. As a rule, directly after dark not a creature is to be
+    seen about the streets, for every one disappears in the most
+    mysterious manner.</p>
+
+    <p>We went on board, and sat in the calm moonlight, thinking
+    and talking over the events of the year, whose end was so
+    swiftly approaching, and wondering what its successor may have
+    in store for us. So ends, with all its joys and sorrows, its
+    pleasures and pains, its hopes and fears, for us, the now old
+    year, 1876.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 291<a name="Page_291"
+       id="Page_291"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XVII"
+       id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">HONOLULU&mdash;DEPARTURE FOR JAPAN.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>Years following years, steal something every
+            day</i>;<br /></span> <span><i>At last they steal us
+            from ourselves away</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, January 1st, 1877</i>.&mdash;At midnight we were
+    awakened by our ship's bell, and that of the 'Fant&ocirc;me,'
+    being struck violently sixteen times. For the moment I could
+    not imagine what it meant, and thought it must be an alarm of
+    fire; indeed, it was not until Tom and I reached the deck,
+    where we found nearly all the ship's company assembled at the
+    top of the companion, and were greeted with wishes for 'A happy
+    New Year, and many of them,' that we quite realised that
+    nothing serious was the matter. Soon the strains of sweet
+    music, proceeding from the Honolulu choirs, which had come out
+    in boats to serenade us, fell upon our ears The choristers
+    remained alongside for more than an hour, singing English and
+    American sacred and secular hymns and songs, and then went off
+    to the 'Fant&ocirc;me,' where they repeated the performance.
+    The moon shone brightly; not a ripple disturbed the surface of
+    the water; the cocoa-trees at Waikiki, and the distant
+    mountains near the Pali, were all clearly defined against the
+    dark blue sky. It was altogether a romantic and delicious
+    scene, and we found it difficult to tear ourselves away from
+    the sweet sounds which came floating over the sea.</p>
+
+    <p>When I again went on deck, at half-past six, there was a
+    large double canoe close to the yacht, crowded with people. It
+    was difficult to make out what they were doing, for
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 292<a name="Page_292"
+       id="Page_292"></a></span>they appeared to be sitting on a
+       great heap of something, piled up between the two canoes.
+       Our sailors suggested that it must be 'some sort of a New
+       Year's set out.' I ordered the 'Flash' to be got ready, and
+       went with the children to make a closer investigation; and,
+       as we approached, we could see that the pile that had
+       puzzled us was a huge fishing-net. The tide here is very
+       uncertain; but as soon as the water is low enough, they
+       stretch the long net right across the narrow mouth of the
+       harbour, and so secure an enormous quantity of fish of
+       various kinds. It was a really good New Year's haul, and
+       provided a hearty meal for a great many people.</p>
+
+    <p>Mabelle and I went at twelve o'clock to the Queen's New
+    Year's reception, held in the other wing of the palace. Having
+    driven through the pretty gardens, we were received at the
+    entrance by the Governor, and ushered through two reception
+    rooms into the royal presence. The Queen was dressed in a
+    European court-dress, of blue and white material, with the
+    Hawaiian Order of the Garter across her breast. Two maids of
+    honour were also in court-dress. Of the other ladies, some were
+    in evening, some in morning dress, some with bonnets and some
+    without; but their costumes were all made according to the
+    European fashion, except that of her Highness Ruth, the
+    Governess of Hawaii, who looked wonderfully well in a rich
+    white silk native dress, trimmed with white satin. She had a
+    necklace of orange-coloured <i>oo</i> feathers round her neck,
+    and dark yellow alamanda flowers in her hair. This native
+    costume is a most becoming style of dress, especially to the
+    chiefs and chiefesses, who are all remarkably tall and
+    handsome, with a stately carriage and dignified manner. The
+    Queen stood in front of the throne, on which were spread the
+    royal robes, a long mantle of golden feathers, without speck or
+    blemish. On each side stood two men, dressed in black, wearing
+    frock-coats, and capes of red, black, and yellow feathers over
+    their shoulders, and chimney-pot hats on their
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 293<a name="Page_293"
+       id="Page_293"></a></span>heads. In their hands they held two
+       enormous <i>kahilis</i> of black <i>oo</i> feathers, with
+       handsome tortoise-shell and ivory handles. They were at
+       least eight feet high altogether, and the feathers were
+       about six inches across.</p>
+
+    <p>The Princess presented Mabelle and me to her Majesty, and we
+    had a short conversation through a lady interpreter. It is
+    always an embarrassing thing to carry on a conversation in this
+    way, especially when you find yourself in the midst of a square
+    formed by a large crowd of ladies, who you fancy are all gazing
+    at you, the one stranger present, and I was glad when fresh
+    people arrived, and her Majesty's attention was claimed
+    elsewhere.</p>
+
+    <p>Queen Kapiolani is a nice-looking woman, with a very
+    pleasing expression of countenance. She is the granddaughter of
+    the heroic Princess Kapiolani, who, when the worship and fear
+    of the goddess P&eacute;l&eacute; were at their height, walked
+    boldly up to the crater of Kilauea, in defiance of the warnings
+    and threats of the high-priestess of the idolatrous rites,
+    proclaiming her confidence in the power of her God, the God of
+    the Christians, to preserve her. This act did much to assist in
+    the establishment of Christianity in the Island of Hawaii, and
+    to shake the belief of the native worshippers of
+    P&eacute;l&eacute; in the power of the fearful goddess.</p>
+
+    <p>The Princess showed me round the room which contains the
+    portraits of the kings and queens of the Sandwich Islands for
+    many generations, the early ones attired in their feather
+    capes, the later ones dressed in European costumes. Most of
+    them were the work of native artists, but the portraits of
+    Kamehameha II. and his queen were painted, during their visit
+    to England, by a good artist. Their Majesties are depicted in
+    the height of the fashion of the day, the king wearing a blue
+    coat and brass buttons, with many orders on his breast, the
+    queen having on a very short-waisted, tight-fitting white satin
+    dress, a turban surmounted by a tremendous plume of white
+    feathers, and a pearl necklace and bracelets: rather a trying
+    costume for <span class="pagenum">Page 294<a name="Page_294"
+       id="Page_294"></a></span>a handsome woman with a dark
+       complexion and portly figure. They both died in England, and
+       their remains were brought back here for burial, in H.M.S.
+       'Blonde,' commanded by Lord Byron. There was also a portrait
+       of Admiral Thomas, whose memory is highly reverenced here
+       for the happy way in which he succeeded in terminating the
+       disputes arising out of our claim to the island in 1843, and
+       in restoring King Kamehameha III. to his own again.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_309"
+             id="Illus_309"></a> <img src="images/t_309.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="194"
+             alt="Illustration: Feathered Cloak and Helmets"
+             title="Illustration: Feathered Cloak and Helmets" /><br />
+        <b>Feathered Cloak and Helmets</b><br />
+        <a href="images/309.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>The collection likewise included excellent portraits of
+    Louis Philippe and Napoleon III. Curiously enough, each of
+    these was sent off from France to the Sandwich Islands, by way
+    of Cape Horn, while the original was in the zenith of his power
+    and fame; and each reached its destination after the original
+    had been deposed and had fled to England for refuge.</p>
+
+    <p>But the most interesting object of all was still to
+    come&mdash;the real feather cloak, cape, and girdle of the
+    Kamehamehas, <span class="pagenum">Page 295<a name="Page_295"
+       id="Page_295"></a></span>not generally to be seen, except at
+       a coronation or christening, but which the Princess
+       Kamakaeha, in her capacity of Mistress of the Robes, had
+       kindly ordered to be put out for my inspection. The cloak,
+       which is now the only one of the kind in existence, is about
+       eleven feet long by five broad, and is composed of the
+       purest yellow, or rather golden, feathers, which, in the
+       sunlight, are perfectly gorgeous, as they have a peculiar
+       kind of metallic lustre, quite independent of their
+       brilliant colour.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_310"
+             id="Illus_310"></a> <img src="images/t_310.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="184"
+             alt="Illustration: The Pali-Oahu"
+             title="Illustration: The Pali-Oahu" /><br />
+        <b>The Pali-Oahu</b><br />
+        <a href="images/310.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>On leaving the palace I had intended to get some lunch at
+    the hotel, but found that establishment was closed to the
+    general public, and was in the possession of a native teetotal
+    society; so I was obliged to return to the yacht. At half-past
+    three, however, we all went ashore again, and set out on
+    horseback, a large party, for an excursion to the Pali, the
+    children, servants, and provisions preceding us in a light
+    two-horse American wagon. We rode through the Nuuanu Avenue,
+    and then up the hills, along a moderately good road, for about
+    seven miles and a half. This, <span class="pagenum">Page
+    296<a name="Page_296"
+       id="Page_296"></a></span>brought us into a narrow gorge in
+       the midst of the mountains, from which we emerged on the
+       other side of the central range of hills, forming the
+       backbone of the island. The view from this point was
+       beautiful, though I think that the morning would be a better
+       time to enjoy it, as, with a setting sun, the landscape was
+       all in shadow. The change of temperature, too, after the
+       heat of Honolulu, was quite astonishing, considering the
+       short distance we had come&mdash;about eight miles only. The
+       carriage could not go quite to the top of the mountain, and
+       after descending a short distance to where it had been left,
+       we dismounted and spread our dinner on the ground; but
+       darkness overtook us before we had finished. Matches and
+       lamps had of course been forgotten; so that the business of
+       packing up was performed under circumstances of great
+       difficulty. The ride down, in the light of the almost full
+       moon, was delightful.</p>
+
+    <p>We were on board by half-past seven, and went ashore to a
+    ball at nine o'clock. The dance took place in the large room of
+    the Hawaiian Hotel, and was a great success. The Royal band
+    played for us, and there was neither stuffiness nor crowding,
+    nor were there any regulations as to dress, gentlemen and
+    ladies coming in evening or morning dress, as it suited them
+    best. The Governor and most of the English present, including
+    our own party, wore evening dress, and the officers of the
+    'Fant&ocirc;me' were in uniform. Every door and window was
+    open, there was a large verandah to sit in, a garden to stroll
+    about in between the dances, and an abundance of delicious iced
+    lemonade&mdash;very different from the composition thus named
+    which is generally met with in London assemblies&mdash;to
+    drink. At half-past twelve, when people were beginning to
+    disperse, we took our departure, Captain Long taking us off to
+    the yacht in his boat.</p>
+
+    <p>There is to be another ball on Thursday night, for which
+    everybody is most anxious that we should stay, as it
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 297<a name="Page_297"
+       id="Page_297"></a></span>is to be rather a large affair. In
+       order that you may see the Hawaiian fashion of sending out
+       cards, I copy the form of invitation we received:&mdash;</p>
+
+    <table summary="Hawaiian invitation"
+           frame="box"
+           rules="none"
+           cellpadding="2"
+           width="80%">
+        <tr>
+            <td colspan="3"><i>The pleasure of the Company of Mr.
+            and Mrs. Thos. Brassey is requested at a Subscription
+            Ball, at the Hawaiian Hotel,</i></td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td colspan="3"
+                align="center"><b>ON THURSDAY EVENING, JANUARY 4,
+                1877, AT 8 O'CLOCK.</b></td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td align="left">
+            <i>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Respectfully,</i></td>
+
+            <td></td>
+
+            <td align="right"><i>H. A.
+            Widemann,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</i><br />
+            <b>For the Committee.</b></td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td colspan="3"
+                align="center"><i>Mrs. Jas. Makee and Mrs. J. S.
+                McGrew will kindly act as matrons of the
+                evening.</i></td>
+        </tr>
+    </table>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, January 2nd</i>.&mdash;At eleven o'clock, the
+    King, who was rather better, went on board the 'Fant&ocirc;me,'
+    saw the men at quarters, and witnessed the firing of a couple
+    of shots at a target, and shortly before twelve paid us a
+    visit, accompanied by the Prince Leleiohoku and others. His
+    Majesty is a tall, fine-looking man, with pleasant manners, and
+    speaks English perfectly and fluently. He and the Prince
+    visited and examined every corner of the yacht, and looked, I
+    think, at almost every object on board. The pictures,
+    curiosities, engines, and our various little contrivances for
+    economising space, seemed to interest them the most. The
+    inspection occupied at least an hour and a half; and when it
+    was over, we had a long chat on deck on various subjects. The
+    Prince of Wales's visit to India, and the Duke of Edinburgh's
+    voyage round the world, were much discussed, I think the King
+    would like to use them as a precedent, and see a little more of
+    the world himself. His voyage to, and stay in America, he
+    thoroughly enjoyed.</p>
+
+    <p>It was two o'clock before our visitors left; and a quarter
+    of an hour <span class="pagenum">Page 298<a name="Page_298"
+       id="Page_298"></a></span> later the Queen and her sister
+       arrived. Her Majesty and her sister made quite as minute an
+       inspection of the yacht as her royal consort and his brother
+       had done before them. We had arranged to be 'at home' to all
+       our kind friends in Honolulu at four o'clock, at which hour
+       precisely the Governor sent the Royal band on board to
+       enliven the proceedings. Soon our other visitors began to
+       arrive; but the Queen appeared to be so well amused that she
+       did not leave until five o'clock. By-half-past six, the last
+       of our guests (over 150 in number) had said farewell, and
+       there only remained the band to be shown round and feasted
+       after their labours. Tom went on board the 'Fant&ocirc;me'
+       to dine, and to meet the British, French, German, and
+       American representatives. We went to the hotel; and I must
+       say that I never in my life felt more thoroughly worn out
+       than I did that night, after standing about and receiving
+       and entertaining all the day.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, January 3rd</i>.&mdash;This was sure to be a
+    disagreeable day, since it was to be the concluding one of our
+    short stay in this pleasant place. The final preparations for a
+    long voyage had also to be made; stores, water, and live stock
+    to be got on board, bills to be paid, and adieux to be made to
+    kind friends.</p>
+
+    <p>I was on deck at six o'clock, in order to take some
+    photographs and to stow away the coral, shells, curiosities,
+    and presents of various kinds, that the King, Queen, Prince and
+    Princess, as well as other kind friends, had sent us. Before
+    seven the yacht was surrounded by boats, and the deck was quite
+    impassable, so encumbered was it with all sorts of lumber,
+    waiting to be stowed away, until the boats could be hoisted on
+    board and secured for the voyage. The large mizen-sail, which
+    had just been repaired and sent on board, looked enormous as it
+    lay on the deck, surrounded by hen-coops, sheep, geese, sacks
+    of coal, and baskets and parcels of every size and shape. One
+    really began to <span class="pagenum">Page
+    299<a name="Page_299"
+       id="Page_299"></a></span> wonder whether space could
+       possibly be found on board for such a miscellaneous
+       collection. Several visitors, who had been unable to come
+       yesterday, arrived in the midst of the confusion. They must
+       have carried away in their minds a different impression of
+       the yacht from what they would have done had they seen her
+       looking as trim and smart as she did yesterday. It could
+       not, however, be helped; for the departure of a small
+       vessel, with forty people on board, on a voyage of a month's
+       duration, is a matter requiring considerable
+       preparation.</p>
+
+    <p>At eleven o'clock we landed and went to see the interior of
+    the Queen's Hospital. It is a fine and well-kept building,
+    containing, at the time of our visit, about ninety patients,
+    the men occupying the lower, the women the upper story. Each
+    ward is tastefully decorated with bouquets, and the name is
+    written up in bright mauve bougainvillea or scarlet hibiscus,
+    tacked on to white calico. Many of the convalescents wore
+    wreaths and garlands of flowers, and even those in bed had a
+    few beside them, or in some cases a single spray laid on the
+    coverlet. The effect was bright and cheerful; and it seemed a
+    kind and sensible idea to endeavour to gratify, instead of to
+    repress, the instinctive love of flowers universally felt by
+    the natives of these and of the South Sea Islands.</p>
+
+    <p>From the hospital we went to pay farewell visits, to lunch
+    at the hotel, and to settle sundry bills. At three we were to
+    go to the Royal Mausoleum. This was a special privilege, and, I
+    believe, the greatest compliment that has been paid to us
+    anywhere. No foreigners are allowed to enter, except admirals
+    on the station; and very few inhabitants of Honolulu have ever
+    seen the interior. The King has one key, the Dowager Queen Emma
+    another, and the Minister of the Interior the third.</p>
+
+    <p>On our way up the hill to the Mausoleum, there was a funeral
+    going on, very much after the style of an Irish wake in one of
+    the dwellings of the poorer class. The house was decorated with
+    flags, and was crowded <span class="pagenum">Page
+    300<a name="Page_300"
+       id="Page_300"></a></span> with people, all dressed in black,
+       and generally with bright yellow <i>leis</i> over their
+       heads and necks. They had evidently come from some distance,
+       judging by the number of carts and wagons drawn up outside
+       the door. Several people were sitting in an upper verandah.
+       The corpse was laid out in the lower room, facing the road,
+       as we could see through the open windows and door. It was
+       surrounded by mourners, and four women were waving large
+       <i>kahilis</i> slowly backwards and forwards in front of
+       it.</p>
+
+    <p>The Princess herself met us at the Mausoleum, which is a
+    small but handsome stone Gothic building, situated above the
+    Nuuanu Avenue, on the road to the Pali. It commands a fine view
+    over land and sea, and the gentle breezes waft through the open
+    windows sweet scents from the many fragrant trees and flowers
+    by which it is surrounded. There lay the coffins of all the
+    kings of Hawaii, their consorts, and their children, for many
+    generations past. The greater part were of polished <i>koa</i>
+    wood, though some were covered with red velvet ornamented with
+    gold. Many of them appeared to be of an enormous size; for, as
+    I have already observed, the chiefs of these islands have
+    almost invariably been men of large and powerful frames. The
+    bones of Kamehameha I. were in a square oak chest. At the foot
+    of the coffin of Kamehameha IV. there were two immense
+    <i>kahilis</i> about twelve feet high, one of rose-coloured,
+    the other of black feathers, with tortoise-shell handles. The
+    remains of King Luna'ilo are not here, having been buried just
+    outside the native church in the town. In the vestibule to the
+    tombs of the kings rests the coffin of Mr. Wylie, described as
+    'the greatest European benefactor of the Hawaiian people.' A
+    ship now in the harbour bears his name, and one constantly
+    meets with proofs of the respect and reverence in which his
+    name is held.</p>
+
+    <p>The Princess drove us down to the wharf, where we said
+    good-bye to her with feelings of the greatest regret. I cannot
+    express the sorrow <span class="pagenum">Page
+    301<a name="Page_301"
+       id="Page_301"></a></span> that we all feel at leaving the
+       many kind friends we have met with in 'dear Honolulu,' as
+       Muriel calls it. But the farewells were at last over, the
+       anchor was weighed, and the yacht, which was by this time
+       once more in apple-pie order, began slowly to move ahead.
+       Suddenly we heard shouts from the shore, and saw a boat
+       pursuing us in hot haste. We stopped, and received on board
+       a basket of beautiful ferns and other parcels from different
+       friends. A second boat was then seen coming off to us, which
+       contained a fine dish of delicious honey and some flowers.
+       The order to go ahead again was scarcely given, before a
+       third boat, in, if possible, hotter haste than the two
+       previous ones, put off after us, bringing some things the
+       laundress had forgotten.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_316"
+             id="Illus_316"></a> <img src="images/t_316.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="202"
+             alt="Illustration: ZEUS CILIARIS"
+             title="Illustration: ZEUS CILIARIS" /><br />
+        <b>ZEUS CILIARIS</b><br />
+        <a href="images/316.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Now we are fairly off; and now surely the last link that
+    binds us to the shore is broken. But no! there are farewell
+    signals and hearty cheers yet to come from the officers and men
+    of the 'Fant&ocirc;me;' and, still further out, on the top of
+    the tiny lighthouse at the mouth of the narrow passage through
+    the reef, stand other friends, cheering and waving their
+    handkerchiefs. They had rowed out thither, being
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 302<a name="Page_302"
+       id="Page_302"></a></span> determined to give us really
+       <i>the</i> parting cheer, and till the shades of twilight
+       fell we could see their white handkerchiefs fluttering, and
+       hear their voices borne on the evening breeze, as we
+       meandered slowly through the tortuous channels into deep
+       water.</p>
+
+    <p>Once outside we found there was plenty of wind and a heavy
+    roll, which sent me quickly to bed.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 303<a name="Page_303"
+       id="Page_303"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII"
+       id="CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">HONOLULU TO YOKOHAMA.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>As slow our ship her foamy
+            track</i><br /></span> <span><i>Against the wind was
+            cleaving</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Her trembling
+            pennant still look'd back</i><br /></span> <span><i>To
+            that dear isle 'twas leaving</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, January 4th</i>.&mdash;It was very rough, but
+    fortunately the wind came from a favourable quarter. Sorry as
+    we all were to bid farewell to these charming islands, I could
+    not help rejoicing that we had picked up a fresh fair wind so
+    unexpectedly soon.</p>
+
+    <p>While we were at Honolulu a regular epidemic of influenza
+    prevailed in the place, affecting both man and beast. This is
+    often the case during the prevalence of the south wind, which
+    blew, more or less, during the whole of our stay. We none of us
+    suffered from the malady at the time, but now nearly everybody
+    on board is affected, and some very severely.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, January 5th</i>.&mdash;The fresh fair breeze
+    still continues. At noon we had sailed 240 knots. The head-sea
+    we could dispense with, as it makes us all very uncomfortable.
+    Muriel, Baby, the three maids, and several of the crew, are ill
+    to-day with influenza, and I have a slight touch of it, so I
+    suppose it will go right through the ship. Towards the evening
+    the breeze increased to a gale.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, January 6th</i>.&mdash;The gale increased
+    during the night, and the head-sea became heavier. There was a
+    good deal of rain in the course of the day. The wind dropped
+    about sunset, and was succeeded by intervals of calm, with
+    occasional sharp squalls. Baby was very
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 304<a name="Page_304"
+       id="Page_304"></a></span> poorly all day, but seemed better
+       at night. We have now regularly settled down to our sea life
+       again, and, if only the children recover, I hope to get
+       through a good deal of reading and writing between this and
+       Japan. At present they occupy all my time and attention, but
+       I think, like the weather, they have now taken a turn for
+       the better.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, January 7th</i>.&mdash;A very rough and
+    disagreeable day, with much rain. All the morning we rolled
+    about, becalmed, in a heavy swell. Steam was ordered at
+    half-past twelve, but before it was up the fair wind had
+    returned, so the fires were put out. We had the Litany at
+    eleven, and a short service, without a sermon, at four.</p>
+
+    <p>Baby was <i>very</i> ill all night. Everything was shut up
+    on account of the torrents of rain, so that the heat was almost
+    insufferable, and we tossed and tumbled about in the most
+    miserable manner.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, January 8th</i>.&mdash;All the early part of the
+    morning we were in the greatest anxiety about Baby; she could
+    hardly draw her breath, and lay in her cot, or on her nurse's
+    lap, almost insensible, and quite blue in the face, in spite of
+    the application of mustard, hot water, and every remedy we
+    could think of. The influenza with her has taken the form of
+    bronchitis and pleurisy. The other children are still ailing.
+    Heavy squalls of wind and rain, and continuous rolling,
+    prevailed throughout the day.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, January 9th</i>.&mdash;The wind fell light, and
+    the weather improved; but we tumbled about more than ever. The
+    thermometer in the nursery stood at 90&deg;. The children are a
+    shade better.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, January 10th</i>.&mdash;Very hot, and a flat
+    calm. Steam was up at 7.30 a.m. Mabelle is convalescent; Muriel
+    not so well; Baby certainly better. In the afternoon one of the
+    boiler-tubes burst. It was repaired, and we went on steaming.
+    In the evening it burst again, and was once more repaired,
+    without causing a long stoppage. <span class="pagenum">Page
+    305<a name="Page_305"
+       id="Page_305"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>(<i>Thursday, January 11th</i>, had no existence for us, as,
+    in the process of crossing the 180th meridian, we have lost a
+    day.)</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, January 12th</i>.&mdash;Wednesday morning with us
+    was Tuesday evening with people in England, and we were thus
+    twelve hours in advance of them. To-day the order of things is
+    reversed, and we are now twelve hours behind our friends at
+    home. Having quitted one side of the map of the world
+    (according to Mercator's projection), and entered upon the
+    other half, we begin to feel that we are at last really
+    'homeward bound.'</p>
+
+    <p>At four a.m. Powell woke us with the announcement that the
+    boiler-tube had again burst, and that we had consequently
+    ceased steaming. Letting off steam, and blowing out the boiler,
+    made a tremendous noise, which aroused everybody in the ship.
+    It was a lovely morning, but a flat calm, and the sun rose
+    magnificently. The few light clouds near the surface of the
+    water caught and reflected the rays of light most brilliantly
+    before the sun itself appeared, and assumed all manner of
+    fanciful shapes.</p>
+
+    <p>About six o'clock a very light breeze sprang up, which
+    increased during the day; but the sea remained perfectly calm.
+    We think we must have got into the trade again. This weather is
+    indeed a luxury after all the knocking about we have lately
+    gone through; and I feel as if I could never rest enough. The
+    constant effort to maintain one's balance, whether sitting,
+    standing, or moving about, has been most fatiguing, and the
+    illness of the children has made matters worse. Baby is, I
+    hope, now quite out of danger.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, January 13th</i>.&mdash;The engineers made up
+    their minds that we were in the trade winds again yesterday,
+    and that we should not want the engines for some days. They
+    therefore did not hurry on with the repairs as they should have
+    done. This morning there was a calm, and when Tom ordered steam
+    to be got up at once, the reply was, 'Please, sir, the engine
+    won't be ready till night.' This was <span class="pagenum">Page
+    306<a name="Page_306"
+       id="Page_306"></a></span> annoying; but they worked extra
+       hard all day, and by 4 p.m. steam was raised. At six a nice
+       little breeze sprang up, which freshened during the evening,
+       and at midnight orders were given to stop steaming.</p>
+
+    <p>We had another bad night of it&mdash;a head wind, the sea
+    washing over the decks, everything shut up, and the thermometer
+    standing at 90&deg;.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, January 14th</i>.&mdash;I was on deck at 4 a.m.
+    The Southern Cross, the Great Bear, and the North Star, were
+    shining with a brilliancy that eclipsed all the other
+    stars.</p>
+
+    <p>During the day the wind freshened to a squally gale.
+    Sometimes we were going ten, sometimes thirteen, and sometimes
+    fifteen knots through the water, knocking about a good deal all
+    the while. Service was an impossibility; cooking and eating,
+    indeed, were matters of difficulty. It rained heavily, and the
+    seas came over the deck continually.</p>
+
+    <p>Many of the sailors and servants were ill. I was hopelessly
+    so. Nothing annoys me more than to find that, after having
+    sailed tens and tens of thousands of miles, I cannot cure
+    myself of sea-sickness. I can stand a good deal more rolling
+    than I once could; but still, many are the days when nothing
+    but the firmest determination not to think about it, but to
+    find something to do, and to do it with all my might, keeps me
+    on my feet at all. Fewer, happily, are the days when struggling
+    is of no avail, when I am utterly and hopelessly incapacitated,
+    ignominiously and literally laid flat on my back, and when no
+    effort of will can enable me to do what I most wish to
+    accomplish. If only some physician could invent a sovereign
+    remedy for sea-sickness, he would deserve well of his country,
+    and of mankind in general.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, January 15th</i>.&mdash;I woke once or twice in
+    the night, and felt exactly as if I were being pulled backwards
+    through the water by my <span class="pagenum">Page
+    307<a name="Page_307"
+       id="Page_307"></a></span> hair. We were rushing and tearing
+       along at such a pace, against a head sea, that it almost
+       took one's breath away. But at noon we were rewarded for all
+       discomfort by finding that we had run 298 sea, or 343 land
+       miles, in 24 hours, and that between 8.14 yesterday and 8.15
+       to-day we had made 302 knots, or 347 land miles&mdash;nearly
+       350 miles in the 24 hours&mdash;under very snug canvas, and
+       through a heavy sea. The wind still continued fair and
+       fresh, but the sea was much quieter, and we all felt
+       comparatively comfortable. More sails were set during the
+       afternoon. Some albatrosses and long-tailed tropic birds
+       were seen hovering about us. The moon begins to give a good
+       light now, and we found it very pleasant on deck this
+       evening.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, January 17th</i>.&mdash;It was a fine warm
+    morning, and we got the children on deck for the first time for
+    ten days.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, January 18th</i>.&mdash;Between breakfast and
+    lunch we sailed over the spot where Tarquin Island is marked on
+    the chart, and, between lunch and dinner, over a nameless reef,
+    also marked on the chart. A good look-out had been kept at the
+    masthead and in the bows, but not a trace could be seen of
+    either of these objects in any direction. The weather kept
+    clear and bright, and the sea was much calmer.</p>
+
+    <p>During the last five days we have covered 1,221 sea
+    miles.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, January 22nd</i>.&mdash;At daylight Asuncion
+    Island was still visible. It is of volcanic origin, and is in
+    the form of a perfect sugar-loaf, 2,600 feet high, rising out
+    of the sea, exactly as I had expected the Peak of Teneriffe to
+    appear. I should like to have landed on the islands Agrigan or
+    Tinian, so as to see the interesting remains left by the
+    ancient inhabitants. Some people say that they resemble Aztec
+    remains; others, that they are like those of the more modern
+    Peruvians. All authorities, however, seem to agree that they
+    are like <span class="pagenum">Page 308<a name="Page_308"
+       id="Page_308"></a></span> those on Easter Island, the
+       south-east extremity of Polynesia, this being the
+       north-west.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_323"
+             id="Illus_323"></a> <img src="images/t_323.jpg"
+             width="168"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Amateur Navigation"
+             title="Illustration: Amateur Navigation" /><br />
+        <b>Amateur Navigation</b><br />
+        <a href="images/323.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We were close-hauled all day; the wind was strong, and the
+    sea rough and disagreeable.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, January 23rd</i>.&mdash;Still close-hauled, and
+    still a heavy swell. I felt very ill, and could scarcely move
+    my head for neuralgia. The <span class="pagenum">Page
+    309<a name="Page_309"
+       id="Page_309"></a></span> galley boiler burst to-day, so we
+       are now dependent on the one in the forecastle. During the
+       night we passed the Euphrosyne rock. It looks like a ship in
+       full sail, and abounds with turtle, fish, and
+       sea-elephants.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, January 24th</i>.&mdash;Very much colder,
+    though we are only just outside the tropics. The wind was
+    rather freer, and we had a beautiful moonlight night.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, January 26th</i>.&mdash;During the night the
+    breeze freshened, and in the morning increased to a gale. Steam
+    was therefore let off. It has been a miserable day; so cold,
+    wet, and rough, that it was impossible to do anything, or to
+    sit anywhere, except on the floor.</p>
+
+    <p>About 9 p.m. I was sitting in the deck-house, when I heard a
+    tremendous crash, and, looking out, saw that the fore gig
+    davits had been carried away, taking with them a piece of the
+    rail, stanchion, and cavil. The gig was hanging from the after
+    davits, one might say, by a thread, splashing and dashing in
+    and out of the water, and crashing and splintering against the
+    side of the yacht. All hands were speedily on deck; and in
+    spite of the risk they ran, and of the remonstrances of their
+    comrades, two of the gig's crew jumped into her with a rope,
+    which they tried to pass round her. It was a difficult task in
+    that heavy sea, and many times they failed, and we constantly
+    feared that men, boat, and all were gone. Half a dozen of the
+    crew caught hold of the rigging outside, put their backs
+    against the yacht, and with legs outstretched tried to keep the
+    gig off the ship's side, while all the loose gear was floating
+    away out of her. At last there was a shout of triumph. The rope
+    was round her, the men jumped on board the yacht again, whilst
+    sailors, stewards, and passengers proceeded to hoist and drag
+    the boat in, with all their might and main. Alas! she was only
+    a wreck. Her sides were stove in, her planks were started,
+    there was a hole in her bottom, and the moon shone through her
+    many cracks.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 310<a name="Page_310"
+       id="Page_310"></a></span> <i>Saturday, January
+       27th</i>.&mdash;About two o'clock this morning the yacht
+       plunged so heavily into a deep sea, that the jibboom, a
+       beautiful spar, broke short off, and the foretop-gallant
+       mast and topgallant yard were carried away almost at the
+       same moment, with a terrible noise. It took about eight
+       hours to clear the wreck, all hands working all night; and a
+       very forlorn appearance the deck presented in the morning,
+       lumbered up with broken spars, ropes, &amp;c. The jibboom
+       fell right across the forefoot of the yacht, and now looks
+       as if it had been cut at for weeks with some blunt tool.</p>
+
+    <p>The weather cleared a little to-day, but there was still a
+    heavy sea and nearly a head wind. The crew were busily engaged
+    in repairing damages. Unfortunately, two of them are ill, and
+    so is the carpenter, a specially important person at this
+    juncture. No men could have behaved better than they all did
+    after the accident. It was frightful to see them aloft in such
+    weather, swinging on the ends of the broken spars, as the yacht
+    rolled and pitched about. When it comes to a pinch they are all
+    good men and true: not that they are perfection, any more than
+    other men are.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, January 28th</i>.&mdash;It is finer, but bitterly
+    cold. Several of my tropical birds are already dead. The little
+    pig from Harpe Island, and the Hawaiian geese, look very
+    wretched, in spite of all my precautions.</p>
+
+    <p>We had the Litany at eleven, and prayer and a sermon at
+    four; after which Tom addressed the men, paying them some
+    well-deserved compliments on their behaviour on Friday
+    night.</p>
+
+    <p>The decks were very slippery, and as we kept rolling about a
+    good deal there were some nasty falls among the passengers. We
+    had a splendid though stormy sunset, which did not belie its
+    promise, for the wind shortly afterwards became stiffer and
+    stronger, until at last we had two reefs down, and were
+    tumbling about in all directions, as we rushed through the
+    water. The dining-tables tilted till they could go
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 311<a name="Page_311"
+       id="Page_311"></a></span> no further, and then paused to go
+       back again; but not quickly enough, for the glasses began to
+       walk uphill and go over the edge in the most extraordinary
+       manner. On deck the night looked brilliant but rather
+       terrible. The full moon made it as light as day, and
+       illuminated the fountains of spray blown from the waves by
+       which we were surrounded. Without her heavy jibboom, and
+       with her canvas well reefed down, the 'Sunbeam' rode through
+       it all, dipping her head into the sea, shivering from stem
+       to stern, and then giving herself a shake, preparatory to a
+       fresh start, just like a playful water-bird emerging from a
+       prolonged dive.</p>
+
+    <p>At midnight a tremendous sea struck her, and for a minute
+    you could not see the yacht at all, as she was completely
+    enveloped in spray and foam. Tom said it was just like being
+    behind the falls of Niagara, with the water coming over you
+    from every quarter at once. It was only loose stuff, however,
+    for not a green sea did she take on board the whole night
+    through. Our old engineer, who has been with us so long, made
+    up his mind that we had struck on a rock, and woke up all the
+    servants and told them to go on deck. I never felt anything
+    like it before, and the shock sent half of us out of our
+    beds.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, January 29th</i>.&mdash;At four o'clock I was
+    called to go on deck to see the burning mountain. The wind was
+    still blowing hard, but we were among the islands, and in
+    comparatively smooth water. The full moon still rode high in
+    the heavens, her light being reflected in rainbow hues from the
+    spray and foam that drifted along the surface of the water. On
+    every side were islands and rocks, among which the sea boiled,
+    and seethed, and swirled, while the roaring breakers dashed
+    against the higher cliffs, casting great columns of spray into
+    the air, and falling back in heavy rollers and surf. Just
+    before us rose the island of Vries, with its cone-shaped
+    volcano, 2,600 feet high, emitting volumes of smoke and flame.
+    It was overhung by a cloud of <span class="pagenum">Page
+    312<a name="Page_312"
+       id="Page_312"></a></span> white vapour, on the under side of
+       which shone the lurid glare of the fires of the crater.
+       Sometimes this cloud simply floated over the top of the
+       mountain, from which it was quite detached; then there would
+       be a fresh eruption; and after a few moments' quiet, great
+       tongues of flame would shoot up and pierce through the
+       overhanging cloud to the heavens above, while the molten
+       lava rose like a fountain for a short distance, and then ran
+       down the sides of the mountain. It was wondrously beautiful;
+       and, as a defence against the intense cold, we wrapped
+       ourselves in furs, and stayed on deck watching the scene,
+       until the sun rose glorious from the sea, and shone upon the
+       snow-covered sides of Fujiyama, called by the Japanese 'the
+       matchless mountain.' It is an extinct crater, of the most
+       perfect form, rising abruptly from a chain of very low
+       mountains, so that it stands in unrivalled magnificence.
+       This morning covered with the fresh-fallen snow, there was
+       not a spot nor a fleck to be seen upon it, from top to
+       bottom. It is said to be the youngest mountain in the world,
+       the enormous mass having been thrown up in the course of a
+       few days only 862 years B.C.</p>
+
+    <p>We reached the entrance to the Gulf of Yeddo about nine
+    o'clock, and passed between its shores through hundreds of
+    junks and fishing boats. I never saw anything like it before.
+    The water was simply covered with them; and at a distance it
+    looked as though it would be impossible to force a passage. As
+    it was, we could not proceed very fast, so constantly were the
+    orders to 'slow,' 'stop,' 'port,' 'starboard,' given; and I
+    began at last to fear that it would be impossible to reach
+    Yokohama without running down at least one boat.</p>
+
+    <p>The shores of the gulf, on each side, consist of sharp-cut
+    little hills, covered with pines and cryptomerias, and dotted
+    with temples and villages. Every detail of the scene exactly
+    resembled the <span class="pagenum">Page 313<a name="Page_313"
+       id="Page_313"></a></span> Japanese pictures one is
+       accustomed to see in England; and it was easy to imagine
+       that we were only gazing upon a slowly moving panorama,
+       unrolling itself before us.</p>
+
+    <p>It was twelve o'clock before we found ourselves among the
+    men-of-war and steamers lying near the port of Yokohama, and
+    two o'clock before the anchor could be dropped.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_328"
+             id="Illus_328"></a> <img src="images/t_328.jpg"
+             width="160"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Little Redcap"
+             title="Illustration: Little Redcap" /><br />
+        <b>Little Redcap</b><br />
+        <a href="images/328.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>During this interval we were surrounded by a swarm of boats,
+    the occupants of which clamoured vociferously to be allowed on
+    board, and in many cases they succeeded in evading the
+    vigilance of the man at the gangway, by going round the other
+    side and climbing over the rail. A second man was put on guard;
+    but it was of no use, for we were invaded from all directions
+    at once. We had a good many visitors also
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 314<a name="Page_314"
+       id="Page_314"></a></span> from the men-of-war, Japanese and
+       English, and from the reporters of newspapers, full of
+       curiosity, questions, and astonishment.</p>
+
+    <p>Having at last managed to get some lunch, Tom went to bed to
+    rest, after his two hard nights' work, and the rest of us went
+    on shore. Directly we landed at the jetty we were rushed at by
+    a crowd of <i>jinrikisha</i> men, each drawing a little vehicle
+    not unlike a Hansom cab, without the seat for the
+    driver&mdash;there being no horse to drive. The man runs
+    between the shafts, and is often preceded by a leader,
+    harnessed on in front, tandem fashion. Each of these vehicles
+    holds one person, and they go along at a tremendous pace.</p>
+
+    <p>We went first to the Consul's, where we got a few letters,
+    and then to the Post Office, where many more awaited us. We had
+    then to go to various places to order stores, fresh provisions,
+    coals, and water, all of which were urgently needed on board,
+    and to give directions for the repair of boats, spars, &amp;c.,
+    with as little delay as possible. All this business, including
+    the inevitable search for a good laundress, lay in the European
+    quarter of the town, the appearance of which was not
+    remarkable. But the people we met in the streets were a study
+    in themselves. The children said they looked 'like fans walking
+    about;' and it was not difficult to understand their meaning.
+    The dress of the lower orders has remained precisely the same
+    for hundreds of years; and before I had been ashore five
+    minutes I realised more fully than I had ever done before the
+    truthfulness of the representations of native artists, with
+    which the fans, screens, and vases one sees in England are
+    ornamented.</p>
+
+    <p>While we were going about, a letter was brought me,
+    containing the sad news (received here by telegram) of the
+    death of Tom's mother. It was a terrible shock, coming, too,
+    just as we were rejoicing in the good accounts from home which
+    our letters contained. I went on board at
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 315<a name="Page_315"
+       id="Page_315"></a></span> once to break the bad news to Tom.
+       This sad intelligence realised a certain vague dread of
+       something, we knew not what, which has seemed to haunt us
+       both on our way hither.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_330"
+             id="Illus_330"></a> <img src="images/t_330.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="161"
+             alt="Illustration: Japanese Boats"
+             title="Illustration: Japanese Boats" /><br />
+        <b>Japanese Boats</b><br />
+        <a href="images/330.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 316<a name="Page_316"
+       id="Page_316"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XIX"
+       id="CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">YOKOHAMA.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>Heavily plunged the breaking
+            wave</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>And foam flew up the
+            lea</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Morning and evening the
+            drifted snow</i><br /></span> <span><i>Fell into the
+            dark grey sea</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, January 30th</i>.&mdash;When we awoke from our
+    slumbers this morning, it was very cold and dark, and we heard
+    noises of a strange kind. On going on deck to ascertain the
+    cause of this state of things, we discovered that the
+    sky-lights and portholes were all covered and blocked up with
+    snow, and that the water froze as it came out of the hose,
+    forming a sheet of ice on the deck. Masses of snow and ice were
+    falling from the rigging, and everything betokened that our
+    welcome to Japan would not be a warm one.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_331"
+             id="Illus_331"></a> <img src="images/t_331.jpg"
+             width="228"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Fujiyama, Japan"
+             title="Illustration: Fujiyama, Japan" /><br />
+        <b>Fujiyama, Japan</b><br />
+        <a href="images/331.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 317<a name="Page_317"
+       id="Page_317"></a></span> After breakfast we had many
+       visitors, and received letters from Sir Harry and Lady
+       Parkes, inviting us to go up to Yeddo to-morrow for a long
+       day, to settle our future plans.</p>
+
+    <p>Having landed, we went with the Consul to the native town,
+    to see the curio shops, which are a speciality of the place.
+    The inhabitants are wonderfully clever at making all sorts of
+    curiosities, and the manufactories of so-called 'antique
+    bronzes' and 'old china' are two of the most wonderful sights
+    in Yokohama. The way in which they scrape, crack, chip, mend,
+    and colour the various articles, cover them with dust,
+    partially clean them, and imitate the marks and signatures of
+    celebrated makers, is more creditable to their ingenuity than
+    to their honesty. Still, there are a good many genuine old
+    relics from the temples, and from the large houses of the
+    reduced Daimios, to be picked up, if you go the right way to
+    work, though the supply is limited. Dealers are plentiful, and
+    travellers, especially from America, are increasing in numbers.
+    When we first made acquaintance with the shops we thought they
+    seemed full of beautiful things, but even one day's shopping,
+    in the company of experienced people, has educated our taste
+    and taught us a great deal; though we have still much to learn.
+    There are very respectable-looking lacquer cabinets ranging in
+    price from 5<i>s</i>. to 20<i>l</i>. But they are only made for
+    the foreign market. No such things exist in a Japanese home. A
+    really good bit of old lacquer (the best is generally made into
+    the form of a small box, a portable medicine-chest, or a
+    chow-chow box) is worth from 20<i>l</i>. to 200<i>l</i>. We saw
+    one box, about three inches square, which was valued at
+    45<i>l</i>.; and a collection of really good lacquer would be
+    costly and difficult to procure even here. The best specimens I
+    have ever seen are at Lady Alcock's; but they are all either
+    royal or princely presents, not to be bought with money. The
+    tests of good lacquer are its exquisite finish, its satiny,
+    oily feel, and the impossibility of making any impression on it
+    with your thumb-nail. It<span class="pagenum">Page
+    318<a name="Page_318"
+       id="Page_318"></a></span> is practically indestructible, and
+       will wear for ever. All the poor as well as the rich people
+       here use it, and have used it for centuries, instead of
+       china and glass, for cups, saucers, dishes, bowls, which
+       would need to be often washed in the hottest of water. It is
+       said that the modern Japanese have lost the art of lacquer
+       making; and as an illustration I was told that many
+       beautiful articles of lacquer, old and new, had been sent
+       from this country to the Vienna Exhibition in 1873, but the
+       price put on them was so exorbitant that few were sold, and
+       nearly all had to be sent back to Japan. Just as the ship
+       with these things on board reached the Gulf of Yeddo, she
+       struck on a rock and sank in shallow water. A month or two
+       ago a successful attempt was made to raise her, and to
+       recover the cargo, when it was found that the new lacquer
+       had been reduced to a state of pulp, while the old was not
+       in the least damaged. I tell you the tale as it was told to
+       me.</p>
+
+    <p>After a long day's shopping, we went to dine, in real
+    Japanese fashion, at a Japanese tea-house. The establishment
+    was kept by a very pleasant woman, who received us at the door,
+    and who herself removed our exceedingly dirty boots before
+    allowing us to step on to her clean mats. This was all very
+    well, as far as it went; but she might as well have supplied us
+    with some substitute for the objectionable articles, for it was
+    a bitterly cold night, and the highly polished wood passages
+    and steep staircase felt very cold to our shoeless feet. The
+    apartment we were shown into was so exact a type of a room in
+    any Japanese house, that I may as well describe it once for
+    all. The woodwork of the roof and the framework of the screens
+    were all made of a handsome dark polished wood, not unlike
+    walnut. The exterior walls under the verandah, as well as the
+    partitions between the other rooms, were simply wooden
+    lattice-work screens, covered with white paper, and sliding in
+    grooves; so that you could walk in or out at any part of the
+    wall you chose, and it was, in like manner, impossible to
+    say<span class="pagenum">Page 319<a name="Page_319"
+       id="Page_319"></a></span> whence the next comer would make
+       his appearance. Doors and windows are, by this arrangement,
+       rendered unnecessary, and do not exist. You open a little
+       bit of your wall if you want to look out, and a bigger bit
+       if you want to step out. The floor was covered with several
+       thicknesses of very fine mats, each about six feet long by
+       three broad, deliciously soft to walk upon. All mats in
+       Japan are of the same size, and everything connected with
+       house-building is measured by this standard. Once you have
+       prepared your foundations and woodwork of the dimensions of
+       so many mats, it is the easiest thing in the world to go to
+       a shop and buy a house, ready made, which you can then set
+       up and furnish in the scanty Japanese fashion in a couple of
+       days.</p>
+
+    <p>On one side of the room was a slightly raised da&iuml;s,
+    about four inches from the floor. This was the seat of honour.
+    On it had been placed a stool, a little bronze ornament, and a
+    china vase, with a branch of cherry-blossom and a few
+    flag-leaves gracefully arranged. On the wall behind hung
+    pictures, which are changed every month, according to the
+    season of the year. There was no other furniture of any sort in
+    the room. Four nice-looking Japanese girls brought us thick
+    cotton quilts to sit upon, and braziers full of burning
+    charcoal, to warm ourselves by. In the centre of the group
+    another brazier was placed, protected by a square wooden
+    grating, and over the whole they laid a large silk eider-down
+    quilt, to retain the heat. This is the way in which all the
+    rooms, even bedrooms, are warmed in Japan, and the result is
+    that fires are of very frequent occurrence. The brazier is
+    kicked over by some restless or careless person, and in a
+    moment the whole place is in a blaze.</p>
+
+    <p>Presently the eider down and brazier were removed, and our
+    dinner was brought in. A little lacquer table, about six inches
+    high, on which were arranged a pair of chop-sticks, a basin of
+    soup, a bowl for<span class="pagenum">Page
+    320<a name="Page_320"
+       id="Page_320"></a></span> rice, a <i>saki</i> cup, and a
+       basin of hot water, was placed before each person, whilst
+       the four Japanese maidens sat in our midst, with fires to
+       keep the <i>saki</i> hot, and to light the tiny pipes with
+       which they were provided, and from which they wished us to
+       take a whiff after each dish. <i>Saki</i> is a sort of
+       spirit, distilled from rice, always drunk hot, out of small
+       cups. In this state it is not disagreeable, but we found it
+       exceedingly nasty when cold.</p>
+
+    <p>Everything was well cooked and served, though the
+    ingredients of some of the dishes, as will be seen from the
+    following bill of fare, were rather strange to our ideas. Still
+    they were all eatable, and most of them really palatable.</p>
+
+    <p class="ctr"><i>Soup</i>.<br />
+    <br />
+    <i>Shrimps and Seaweed</i>.<br />
+    <br />
+    <i>Prawns, Egg Omelette, and Preserved Grapes</i>.<br />
+    <br />
+    <i>Fried Fish, Spinach, Young Rushes, and Young
+    Ginger</i>.<br />
+    <br />
+    <i>Raw Fish, Mustard and Cress, Horseradish, and Soy</i>.<br />
+    <br />
+    <i>Thick Soup, of Eggs, Fish, Mushrooms, and Spinach; Grilled
+    Fish</i>.<br />
+    <br />
+    <i>Fried Chicken, and Bamboo Shoots</i>.<br />
+    <br />
+    <i>Turnip Tops and Root Pickled</i>.<br />
+    <br />
+    <i>Rice ad libitum in a large bowl</i>.<br />
+    <br />
+    <i>Hot Saki, Pipes and Tea</i>.<br /></p>
+
+    <p>The meal concluded with an enormous lacquer box of rice,
+    from which all our bowls were filled, the rice being thence
+    conveyed to our mouths by means of chop-sticks. We managed very
+    well with these substitutes for spoons and forks, the knack of
+    using which, to a certain extent, is soon acquired. The long
+    intervals between the dishes were beguiled with songs, music,
+    and dancing, performed by <span class="pagenum">Page
+    321<a name="Page_321"
+       id="Page_321"></a></span> professional singing and dancing
+       girls. The music was somewhat harsh and monotonous; but the
+       songs sounded harmonious, and the dancing was graceful,
+       though it was rather posturing than dancing, great use being
+       made of the fan and the long trailing skirts. The girls, who
+       were pretty, wore peculiar dresses to indicate their
+       calling, and seemed of an entirely different stamp from the
+       quiet, simply dressed waitresses whom we found so attentive
+       to our wants. Still they all looked cheery, light-hearted,
+       simple creatures, and appeared to enjoy immensely the little
+       childish games they played amongst themselves between
+       whiles.</p>
+
+    <p>After dinner we had some real Japanese tea, tasting exactly
+    like a little hot water poured on very fragrant new-mown hay.
+    Then, after a brief visit to the kitchen, which, though small,
+    was beautifully clean, we received our boots, and were bowed
+    out by our pleasant hostess and her attentive handmaidens.</p>
+
+    <p>On our return we had considerable difficulty in procuring a
+    boat, our own boats being all ashore under repair. It was a
+    beautiful moonlight night, but bitterly cold. The harbour being
+    so full of shipping, our boatmen were at first puzzled how to
+    find the yacht, till we pointed to the lights in the
+    deck-house&mdash;always a good beacon at night in a crowded
+    harbour.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, January 31st</i>. We left the yacht soon after
+    eight o'clock, and started by the 9.34 a.m. train for the city
+    formerly called Yeddo, but latterly, since the Mikado has
+    resided there, Tokio, or eastern capital of Japan. The ground
+    was covered with snow, and there were several degrees of frost,
+    but the sun felt hot, and all the people were sunning
+    themselves in the doorways or wide verandahs of their
+    houses.</p>
+
+    <p>Yokohama has been so completely Europeanised, that it was
+    not until we had left it that we caught our first glimpse of
+    Japanese life; and the whole landscape and the many villages
+    looked very like a set of living fans or
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 322<a name="Page_322"
+       id="Page_322"></a></span>tea-trays, though somehow the snow
+       did not seem to harmonise with it.</p>
+
+    <p>We crossed several rivers, and reached Tokio in about an
+    hour, when we at once emerged into the midst of a clattering,
+    chattering crowd, amongst whom there did not seem to be a
+    single European. The reverberation, under the glass roof of the
+    station, of the hundreds of pairs of wooden clogs, pattering
+    along, was something extraordinary. Giving up our tickets, and
+    following the stream, we found ourselves surrounded by a still
+    more animated scene, outside the station. We were just
+    deliberating what to do next, when a smart little Japanese,
+    with a mail-bag over his shoulder, stepped forward and said
+    something about Sir Harry Parkes. He then popped us all into
+    several double and treble-manned <i>jinrikishas</i>, and
+    started off himself ahead at a tremendous pace, shouting and
+    clearing the way for us.</p>
+
+    <p>Tokio is a genuinely Japanese town. Not a single foreigner
+    resides within its limits, with the exception of the foreign
+    Ministers. There is no hotel nor any place of the kind to stay
+    at; so that, unless you have friends at any of the Legations,
+    you must return to Yokohama the same day, which makes a visit
+    rather a fatiguing affair<a name="FNanchor_16_16"
+       id="FNanchor_16_16">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_16_16"
+       class="fnanchor">[16]</a></p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_16_16"
+           id="Footnote_16_16"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a>
+           I have since heard that there are two hotels at Tokio,
+           such as they are.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Our first halting-place was at the Temple of Shiba, not far
+    from the station, where most of the Tycoons have been buried.
+    It is a large enclosure, many acres in extent, in the centre of
+    the city, with walls overgrown with creepers, and shadowed by
+    evergreen trees, amid whose branches rooks caw, ravens croak,
+    and pigeons coo, as undisturbedly as if in the midst of the
+    deepest woodland solitude. I had no idea there was anything so
+    beautiful in Japanese architecture as this temple. The primary
+    idea in the architecture of Japan is evidently that of a tent
+    among trees. The lines of the high, overhanging, richly
+    decorated roofs, with pointed gable ends, are not straight, but
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 323<a name="Page_323"
+       id="Page_323"></a></span>delicately curved, like the
+       suspended cloth of a tent. In the same way, the pillars have
+       neither capital nor base, but seem to run through the
+       building perpendicularly, without beginning or end. The
+       principal temple was burnt down a few years ago; but there
+       are many smaller ones remaining, built in exactly the same
+       style, and all the tombs are perfect. Some people say the
+       bodies are enclosed in coffins, filled with vermilion, but I
+       need hardly say we had no opportunity of ascertaining the
+       correctness of this statement. We entered several of the
+       temples, which are perfect marvels of carving, gilding,
+       painting, and lacquer work. Their style of decoration may be
+       somewhat barbaric; but what a study they would form for an
+       artist! Outside, where no colour is used, the overhanging
+       roofs and the walls are carved with a depth and boldness,
+       and yet a delicacy, I have seldom seen equalled; the doors
+       and railings being of massive bronze, brought from the
+       Corea. Within, a dim religious light illumines and
+       harmonises a dazzling mass of lacquer, gold, and painting.
+       It is the grandest burial-place imaginable; too good for the
+       long line of men who have tyrannised over Japan and its
+       lawful sovereigns for so many centuries past.</p>
+
+    <p>The streets of Tokio were crowded with a motley throng up to
+    the very gates of the citadel, where, within the first moat,
+    stand all the <i>yashgis</i>, or residences of the Daimios.
+    Each <i>yashgi</i> is surrounded by a blank wall, loopholed,
+    and with a tower at each of the four corners. Within this outer
+    wall is the court of the retainers, all of them 'two-sworded'
+    men; then comes a second wall, also loopholed, inside which
+    dwell distant relations of the Daimio; and then again a third
+    enclosure, guarding the Daimio himself, with his immediate
+    belongings. After crossing the third moat we reached the
+    Mikado's gardens and palace, the public offices, and the
+    residences of the foreign Ministers, all of which were formerly
+    occupied by the Tycoon, or Shogun, and his ministers. On the
+    waters <span class="pagenum">Page 324<a name="Page_324"
+       id="Page_324"></a></span>of the inner moat were thousands of
+       wild ducks and geese. Nobody is allowed to harm them, and
+       the birds seem to be perfectly aware of this fact, for they
+       disport themselves with the greatest confidence.</p>
+
+    <p>The English Embassy is a nice red brick house, built in the
+    centre of a garden, so as to be as secure as possible from fire
+    or attack. After a most pleasant luncheon we looked over the
+    nucleus of a second collection which Lady Parkes is beginning
+    to form. Her former beautiful collection was burnt a few years
+    ago, a most disheartening misfortune, especially as the
+    opportunities for obtaining really old and good things in Japan
+    are diminishing day by day.</p>
+
+    <p>A little later we started in great force, some in carriages
+    and some on horseback, attended by running grooms, to see
+    something more of the city. These men think nothing of running
+    by the side of a horse and carriage some forty miles a day.
+    They form a distinct class, and when working on their own
+    account wear little clothing. When in the service of private
+    individuals they are dressed in tight-fitting dark-blue
+    garments, with short capes, fastened to their arms, and large
+    hats.</p>
+
+    <p>Just outside the Embassy we passed two of the finest of the
+    still existing <i>yashgis</i>, the larger one being used as the
+    Home Office, the other as the Foreign Office.</p>
+
+    <p>There is always a festival going on in some part of Tokio.
+    To-day there had been a great wrestling-match, and we met all
+    the people coming away. Such crowds of <i>jinrikiskas</i>, full
+    of gaily dressed and painted women and children, with their
+    hair plastered into all sorts of inconceivable shapes, and
+    decorated with artificial flowers and glittering pins! We met
+    six of the wrestlers themselves, riding in
+    <i>jinrikishas</i>&mdash;big men, prodigiously fat, and not at
+    all, according to our ideas, in fighting or wrestling
+    condition. One of their <i>jinrikisha</i> men stumbled and
+    fell, just as they passed us, and the wrestler shot out, head
+    over heels, and lay, a helpless ball of fat, in the middle of
+    the <span class="pagenum">Page 325<a name="Page_325"
+       id="Page_325"></a></span>road, till somebody came and picked
+       him up. He was not in the least hurt, and, as soon as he was
+       set on his feet again, began to belabour the poor
+       <i>jinrikisha</i> man most unmercifully. After a long and
+       delightful drive we arrived at the station just in time to
+       catch the train.</p>
+
+    <p>The return journey to Yokohama, in the omnibus-like railway
+    carriages, was very cold, and the <i>jinrikisha</i> drive to
+    the Grand Hotel colder still; but a roaring fire and a capital
+    dinner soon warmed and comforted us.</p>
+
+    <p>After dinner we looked over a fine collection of photographs
+    of Japanese scenery and costumes, and then returned to the
+    yacht in the house-boat belonging to the hotel, which was
+    prettily decorated with bright-coloured lanterns, and which
+    afforded welcome shelter from the biting wind.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, February 1st</i>.&mdash;Careful arrangements
+    have been made for our excursion to the Island of Inoshima, to
+    see the great figure of Daibutz. By eight o'clock we had
+    landed, and packed ourselves into a funny little shaky
+    carriage, drawn by four horses. We drove quickly through the
+    town, past the station, along the Tokaido, or imperial road,
+    running from one end of the Island of Niphon to the other, and
+    on which so many foreigners have been murdered even within the
+    last ten years. Now, however, it is perfectly safe. The houses
+    are one story high, and their walls are made of the screens I
+    have already described. These screens were all thrown back, to
+    admit the morning air, cold as it was. We could consequently
+    see all that was going on within, in the sitting-room in front,
+    and even in the bedrooms and kitchen. At the back of the house
+    there was invariably a little garden to be seen, with a
+    miniature rockery, a tree, and a lake; possibly also a bridge
+    and a temple. Even in the gardens of the poorest houses an
+    attempt at something of the sort had been made. The domestic
+    occupations of the inhabitants being conducted in this public
+    manner, a very good idea might be obtained, even at the end of
+    a few miles' drive, of how the lower <span class="pagenum">Page
+    326<a name="Page_326"
+       id="Page_326"></a></span>class of Japanese wash and dress
+       themselves and their children, how very elaborate the
+       process of hair-dressing is, to say nothing of a bird's-eye
+       view of the ground-plan of the houses, the method of cooking
+       food, &amp;c.</p>
+
+    <p>As we emerged into the open country the landscape became
+    very pretty, and the numerous villages, nestling in the valleys
+    at the foot of the various small hills, had a most picturesque
+    appearance. At a stone-quarry that we passed, on the side of a
+    mountain, there were about seventy men at work, without any
+    clothing, though the thermometer was far below freezing point.
+    The Japanese are a sensitive nation, and finding that
+    foreigners were astonished and shocked at the habits of the
+    people, in going about without clothes, and in bathing in
+    public and at their house doors, they passed a law prohibiting
+    these customs in towns. In the country, however, the more
+    primitive customs are still in force, and every dwelling has
+    its half-open bath-house, whilst the people do as they like in
+    the matter of clothing.</p>
+
+    <p>After stopping twice on the road, to drink the inevitable
+    tea, we changed from our carriage to <i>jinrikishas</i>, each
+    drawn and pushed by four strong men, bowling along at a merry
+    pace. The sun was very warm in the sheltered valleys, and the
+    abundance of evergreens of all kinds quite deluded one into the
+    belief that it was summer time, especially as camellias grew
+    like forest trees, covered with red and white bloom, amidst a
+    dense tangle of bamboos and half-hardy palms. There were many
+    strange things upside down to be seen on efther
+    hand&mdash;horses and cows with bells on their tails instead of
+    on their necks, the quadrupeds well clothed, their masters
+    without a scrap of covering, tailors sewing from them instead
+    of to them, a carpenter reversing the action of his saw and
+    plane. It looked just as if they had originally learned the
+    various processes in 'Alice's Looking-glass World' in some
+    former stage of their existence.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 327<a name="Page_327"
+       id="Page_327"></a></span>We had not long left the town
+       before our men began to undress each other; for their
+       clothes were so tight that it required no inconsiderable
+       effort to remove them. Some of them were beautifully
+       tattooed. My wheeler had the root of a tree depicted on one
+       foot, from which sprang the trunk and branches, spreading
+       gradually, until on his back and chest they bore fruit and
+       flowers, amongst which birds were perched. On his other leg
+       was a large stork, supposed, I imagine, to be standing under
+       the shadow of the same tree. Another man had human figures
+       tattooed all over him, in various attitudes.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_342"
+             id="Illus_342"></a> <img src="images/t_342.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="184"
+             alt="Illustration: A Drag across the Sand in a Jinrikisha"
+             title="Illustration: A Drag across the Sand in a Jinrikisha" />
+        <br />
+        <b>A Drag across the Sand in a Jinrikisha</b><br />
+        <a href="images/342.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>In less than an hour we reached the narrow strip of land
+    which at low water connects the island or peninsula of Inoshima
+    with the mainland. This isthmus was covered with natives
+    gathering shells and seaweed, casting their nets, and pushing
+    off or dragging up their boats; whilst an island rose fresh and
+    green from the sea, with a background of snowy mountains,
+    stretching across the bay, <span class="pagenum">Page
+    328<a name="Page_328"
+       id="Page_328"></a></span>above which Fujiyama towered
+       grandly. This name signifies 'not two, but one mountain,'
+       the Japanese thinking it impossible that there can be
+       another like it in the world. The lovely little island is
+       called Inoshima, and is conical in shape and covered with
+       evergreens and Buddhist temples, with a few small fishing
+       villages scattered on its shores. We walked right across it
+       in about an hour; so you may imagine it is not very large.
+       The sea teems with curiously shaped fish and beautiful
+       shells. The staple food of the inhabitants seems to be those
+       lovely 'Venus's ears, <a name="FNanchor_17_17"
+       id="FNanchor_17_17">'</a> <a href="#Footnote_17_17"
+       class="fnanchor">[17]</a> as they are called&mdash;a
+       flattish univalve, about as big as your hand, with a row of
+       holes along the edge, and a lining of brilliant black
+       mother-of-pearl. These were lying about in heaps mixed with
+       white mother-of-pearl shells, as big as your two fists, and
+       shaped like a snail-shell.</p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_17_17"
+           id="Footnote_17_17"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a>
+           Haliotis.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_343"
+             id="Illus_343"></a> <img src="images/t_343.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="158"
+             alt="Illustration: Inoshima by a Japanese Artist"
+             title="Illustration: Inoshima by a Japanese Artist" /><br />
+
+        <b>Inoshima by a Japanese Artist</b><br />
+        <a href="images/343.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Our <i>jinrikisha</i> men deposited us at the bottom of the
+    main street of the principal village, to enter which we passed
+    through a simple square arch of a temple. The street was steep
+    and dirty, and consisted principally of shell-fish and seaweed
+    shops. <span class="pagenum">Page 329<a name="Page_329"
+       id="Page_329"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>An old priest took us in hand, and, providing us with stout
+    sticks, marched us up to the top of the hill to see various
+    temples, and splendid views in many directions. The camellias
+    and evergreens on the hillside made a lovely framework for each
+    little picture, as we turned and twisted along the narrow path.
+    I know not how many steps on the other side of the island had
+    to be descended before the sea-beach was reached. Here is a
+    cavern stretching 500 feet straight below high-water mark, with
+    a shrine to Benton Sama, the Lucina of Japan; and having been
+    provided with candles, we proceeded a few hundred feet through
+    another cave, running at right angles to the first.</p>
+
+    <p>As it would have been a long steep walk back, and I was very
+    tired, we called to one of the numerous fishing boats near the
+    shore, and were quickly conveyed round to our original starting
+    place. Before we said good-bye, one of the old priests implored
+    to be allowed to dive into the water for half-a-dollar. His
+    request was complied with, and he caught the coin most
+    successfully.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_344"
+             id="Illus_344"></a> <img src="images/t_344.jpg"
+             width="212"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: A Boatman"
+             title="Illustration: A Boatman" /><br />
+        <b>A Boatman</b><br />
+        <a href="images/344.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We lunched at a tea-house, our meal consisting of fish of
+    all kinds, deliciously cooked, and served, fresh from the fire,
+    in a style worthy of Greenwich; and as we had taken the
+    precaution to bring some bread and wine with us, we were
+    independent of the usual rice and <i>saki</i>.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_345"
+             id="Illus_345"></a> <img src="images/t_345.jpg"
+             width="115"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Our Luncheon Bill"
+             title="Illustration: Our Luncheon Bill" /><br />
+        <b>Our Luncheon Bill</b><br />
+        <a href="images/345.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>After this we proceeded on our way towards the Daibutz, or
+    Great Buddha, situated within the limits of what was once the
+    large city of Kama-kura, now only a collection of small
+    hamlets. As all Japanese cities are built of wood, it is not
+    wonderful that they should in time <span class="pagenum">Page
+    330<a name="Page_330"
+       id="Page_330"></a></span>entirely disappear, and leave no
+       trace behind them. But there still remain some of the
+       columns of the temple which once existed in the gardens
+       surrounding the idol. Now he is quite alone; and for
+       centuries has this grand old figure sat, exposed to the
+       elements, serenely smiling on the varying scene beneath him.
+       The figure is of bronze, and is supposed to have been cast
+       about the year 1250 or 1260.</p>
+
+    <p>It is some 50 ft. high, with golden eyes and a silver spiral
+    horn on the forehead. It is possible to sit or stand on the
+    thumb, and within the hollow body an altar is erected, at which
+    the priests officiate. Sitting there, amidst a grove of
+    enormous cryptomerias and bamboos, there is an air of ineffable
+    silent strength about that solitary figure, which affords a
+    clue to the tenacity with which the poorer classes cling to
+    Buddhism. The very calmness of these figures must be more
+    suggestive of relief and repose to the poor weary worshippers
+    than the glitter of the looking-glass and crystal ball to be
+    found in the Shintoo temples. The looking-glass is intended to
+    remind believers that the Supreme Being can see their innermost
+    thoughts as clearly as they can perceive their own reflection;
+    while the crystal ball is an emblem of purity. Great store is
+    set by the latter, especially if of large size and without
+    flaw; but to my mind the imperfect ones are the best, as they
+    refract the light and do not look so much like glass.</p>
+
+    <p>In another village close by&mdash;also part of the ancient
+    Kama-kura&mdash;there is a fine temple, dedicated to the God
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 331<a name="Page_331"
+       id="Page_331"></a></span> of War; but we were pressed for
+       time, and hurried back to the little carriages. The homeward
+       drive was long and cold; but the Tokaido looked very pretty
+       lighted up, the shadows of the inmates being plainly visible
+       on the paper walls, reminding one of a scene in a pantomime.
+       On our way down a very steep hill we met the men carrying a
+       <i>cango</i>. It is a most uncomfortable-looking basket-work
+       contrivance, in which it is impossible to sit or lie with
+       ease. These <i>cangoes</i> used formerly to be the ordinary
+       conveyance of Japan, but they are now replaced by the
+       <i>jinrikishas</i>, and they are seldom met with, except in
+       the mountains or in out-of-the-way places.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, February 2nd</i>.&mdash;I was called at five
+    o'clock, and at half-past six Mabelle and I started for the
+    market. It was blowing a gale, and our four oarsmen found it as
+    much as they could do to reach the shore. The Shanghai
+    mail-boat was just in, and I pitied the poor passengers, who
+    were in all the misery of being turned out into the cold of the
+    early morning, with the spray breaking over them as they sat in
+    the small boats.</p>
+
+    <p>The market at Yokohama is one of the sights of the place.
+    There were large quantities of birds and game of all
+    kinds&mdash;pheasants with tails six feet long, of a rare
+    copper-coloured variety, ducks, pigeons, small birds, hares,
+    deer, rabbits. The fish-market was well supplied, especially
+    with cuttle-fish. They are not inviting-looking, but are
+    considered a delicacy here. A real octopus, in a basket, with
+    its hideous body in the centre, and its eight arms, covered
+    with suckers, arranged in the form of a star, is worth from a
+    dollar to a dollar and a half, according to its size. I was not
+    tempted, however, to make any purchases.</p>
+
+    <p>From the market we went to one or two small shops in back
+    streets, and thence over the bluffs, in the teeth of a bitterly
+    cold wind, to a nursery garden, to examine the results of the
+    Japanese art of dwarfing and distorting trees. Some of the
+    specimens were very curious and some beautiful,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 332<a name="Page_332"
+       id="Page_332"></a></span>but most were simply hideous. We
+       saw tiny old gnarled fruit-trees, covered with blossom, and
+       Scotch firs and other forest trees, eight inches high,
+       besides diminutive ferns and creepers.</p>
+
+    <p>It being now half-past nine o'clock, we went to the hotel to
+    meet the rest of the party for breakfast, and at one o'clock we
+    returned to the yacht. At half-past one Lady Parkes and several
+    other friends from Tokio came on board to luncheon. They told
+    of three disastrous fires that had taken place in Tokio
+    yesterday, by which the Home Office&mdash;one of the finest old
+    Tartar <i>yashgis</i>&mdash;and several smaller edifices had
+    been destroyed.</p>
+
+    <p>After the departure of our guests we paid another visit to
+    the shore, and saw the foxhounds. They are a nice pack, and
+    have good kennels outside the foreign settlement. They were out
+    this morning at 6.30, but unfortunately we did not know of it.
+    There are plenty of foxes, and some very fair country not far
+    from here; so they expect to have good sport.</p>
+
+    <p>We weighed anchor at 8.30 p.m. and proceeded under steam. At
+    11.30, when off Touraya-saki, we set some of the head canvas.
+    It was a cold night, with sleet and snow, though it was not
+    blowing as hard as during the day.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 333<a name="Page_333"
+       id="Page_333"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XX"
+       id="CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">KIOTO, LATE MIACO.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>Manners with fortunes, humours change with
+            climes</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Tenets with books,
+            and principles with times</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, February 3rd</i>.&mdash;The occasional glimpses
+    of the coast scenery through the sleet and snow were very fine.
+    We passed Rocky Island, Lady Inglis rocks, and Matoya. But
+    Mabelle and I spent most of the day in bed; she suffering from
+    a blow from the boom, which had produced slight concussion of
+    the brain, and I having a wretched cold, which has been
+    gradually getting worse the last few days, and which has quite
+    taken away my voice.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, February 4th</i>.&mdash;It was blowing hard all
+    day, raining, snowing, and sleeting. The scenery appeared to be
+    pretty, and we passed through crowds of picturesque junks.</p>
+
+    <p>At 4.25 we rounded Tomamgai Smia, and at 9 p.m. anchored off
+    the town of Kobe, or Hiogo.</p>
+
+    <p>These constant changes of names are very puzzling. Miaco and
+    Yeddo, which we did know something about, are quite cut out,
+    and replaced by Kioto and Tokio. Oddly enough, the same
+    syllables, reversed, mean capital of the Western Empire and
+    capital of the Eastern Empire respectively.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, February 5th</i>.&mdash;By seven o'clock a boat
+    was alongside with letters from the Consul and Sir Harry
+    Parkes, who had kindly made all the necessary arrangements for
+    us to see the opening of the railway from Kobe
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 334<a name="Page_334"
+       id="Page_334"></a></span>to Kioto, and for the presentation
+       of the gentlemen to the Mikado.</p>
+
+    <p>It certainly was a great opportunity for seeing a Japanese
+    holiday crowd, all dressed in their best. Thousands and
+    thousands of people were in the streets, who, though naturally
+    anxious to see as much as possible, behaved in the most quiet
+    and orderly manner. The station was beautifully decorated with
+    evergreens, camellias, and red berries. Outside there was a
+    most marvellous pavilion, the woodwork of which had been
+    entirely covered with evergreens, and ornamented with life-size
+    dragons and phoenixes (the imperial insignia of Japan), all
+    made in flowers. The roof was studded with large
+    chrysanthemums&mdash;the private device of the Mikado, that of
+    the Tycoon being three hollyhock leaves. The sides of the
+    pavilion were quite open, the roof being simply supported on
+    pillars; so that we could see everything that went on, both
+    inside and out. The floor was covered with red cloth; the
+    da&iuml;s with an extremely ugly Brussels carpet, with a large
+    pattern. On this the Mikado's throne was placed, with a second
+    canopy above it. Tom in R.N.R. uniform, the other gentlemen in
+    evening dress, accompanied the Consul on to the platform to
+    receive the Mikado; while the children and I went with Mrs.
+    Annesley to seats reserved for the foreign representatives.
+    There were not many Europeans present; but the platform was
+    densely crowded with Japanese, sitting on their heels, and
+    patiently waiting to see the extraordinary sight of their
+    hitherto invisible spiritual Emperor brought to them by a steam
+    engine on an iron road. The men had all had their heads fresh
+    shaven, and their funny little pigtails rearranged for the
+    occasion. The women's hair was elaborately and stiffly done up
+    with light tortoiseshell combs and a large pin, and decorated
+    with artificial flowers. Some of the children were gaily
+    dressed in red and gold under garments, the prevailing colour
+    of the costumes being dark blue, turned up with red. They also
+    wore gay <span class="pagenum">Page 335<a name="Page_335"
+       id="Page_335"></a></span>embroidered <i>obis</i>, or large
+       sashes, which are put on in a peculiar fashion. They are of
+       great width, and are fastened tightly round the waist, while
+       an enormous bow behind reaches from between the shoulders to
+       far below the hips. The garments fit tightly in front, while
+       at the back they form a sort of huge bunch. On their
+       high-heeled clogs the women walk with precisely the same
+       gait as ladies in high-heeled boots. In fact, so exactly do
+       the Japanese women (you never see Japanese <i>ladies</i>
+       walking about in the streets) caricature the present
+       fashionable style of dress in Europe, that I have formed a
+       theory of my own on the subject, and this is it.</p>
+
+    <p>Some three or four years ago, among other proposed reforms
+    in Japan, the Ministers wished the Empress and her Court to be
+    dressed in European fashion. Accordingly a French milliner and
+    dressmaker, with her assistants, was sent for from Paris, and
+    in due time arrived. The Empress and her ladies, however, would
+    not change their style of dress. They knew better what suited
+    them, and in my opinion they were very sensible. This is what I
+    hear. Now what I think is, that the Parisienne, being of an
+    enterprising turn of mind, thought that she would not take so
+    long a journey for nothing&mdash;that if the Japanese ladies
+    would not follow European fashions, at least European ladies
+    should adopt the Japanese style. On her return to Paris I am
+    convinced that she promulgated this idea, and gradually gave it
+    effect. Hence the fashions of the last two years.</p>
+
+    <p>Watching the crowd occupied the time in a most interesting
+    manner, till the firing of guns and the playing of bands
+    announced the arrival of the imperial train. The Mikado was
+    received on the platform, and after a very short delay he
+    headed the procession along the covered way on to the
+    da&iuml;s.</p>
+
+    <p>He is a young, not very good-looking man, with rather a
+    sullen expression, and legs that look as though they
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 336<a name="Page_336"
+       id="Page_336"></a></span>did not belong to him&mdash;I
+       suppose from using them so little, and sitting so much on
+       his heels; for until the last few years the Mikado has
+       always been considered far too sacred a being to be allowed
+       to set foot on the earth. He was followed by his highest
+       Minister, the foreign Ministers, and a crowd of Japanese
+       dignitaries, all, with one or two exceptions, in European
+       official dress, glittering with gold lace. I believe it was
+       the first time that many of them had ever worn it. At any
+       rate, they certainly had never learned to put it on
+       properly. It would have driven to distraction the tailor who
+       made them, to see tight-fitting uniforms either left
+       unbuttoned altogether, or hooked askew from top to bottom,
+       and to behold the trousers turned up and disfigured by the
+       projecting tags of immense side-spring boots, generally put
+       on the wrong feet. Some of the visitors had no gloves, while
+       others wore them with fingers at least three inches too
+       long. Certainly a court dresser as well as a court tailor
+       ought to be appointed to the Mikado's establishment, before
+       the European costume becomes generally adopted.</p>
+
+    <p>I could not help thinking that the two or three old
+    conservative Ministers who had stuck to their native dress must
+    have congratulated themselves on their firmness, when they saw
+    the effect of the unaccustomed garments upon their
+    <i>confr&egrave;res</i>. The old court dress of the Daimios is
+    very handsome, consisting of rich silks and brocades, with
+    enormously long loose trousers trailing two or three feet on
+    the ground, and with sleeves, like butterfly wings, of
+    corresponding dimensions. A small high-peaked black cap is worn
+    on the head, to accommodate the curious little cut-off pigtail,
+    set up like a cock's comb, which appears to be one of the
+    insignia of a Daimio's rank in Japan.</p>
+
+    <p>As soon as the people had arranged themselves into three
+    sides of a square, Sir Harry Parkes read an address, and
+    presented his five compatriots to the Mikado, who replied in
+    inaudible but no doubt suitable terms. Then the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 337<a name="Page_337"
+       id="Page_337"></a></span>Governor of Kobe had to read an
+       address, and I pitied the poor man from the bottom of my
+       heart. His knees shook, his hands trembled, and his whole
+       body vibrated to such an extent, that his cocked hat fell
+       and rolled on the floor of the da&iuml;s, and finally hopped
+       down the steps, while the address nearly followed its
+       example. How thankful he must have felt when it was
+       over!</p>
+
+    <p>The proceedings in the pavilion being now at an end, the
+    Mikado walked down the middle of the assembly, followed by all
+    his Ministers in single file, on his way to the luncheon tent.
+    After they had gone, we inspected the imperial railway
+    carriage, the soldiers, guns, &amp;c., and just as we were
+    leaving the station yard, to look at the daylight fireworks
+    they were letting off in honour of the occasion, a salute
+    announced the departure of the Mikado for Kioto.</p>
+
+    <p>We lunched at the Consulate, our gentlemen changed to more
+    comfortable attire, and then we went to see a Buddhist temple,
+    supposed to be rather a fine specimen of woodwork. It is
+    specially curious on account of some monkeys and a white horse,
+    each kept in a sort of side shrine. Every worshipper at the
+    temple stopped before these shrines, and for a small coin
+    bought rice or beans to feed them with, through the priest.
+    Whether it was an act of worship, or simply of kindness, I
+    could not discover, though I paid several visits to the spot
+    during our stay at Kobe.</p>
+
+    <p>From the temple we went to the shops in the main street of
+    Hiogo, and full of interest and temptation we found them. The
+    town itself is quite Japanese, and consists, as usual, of
+    wooden houses, narrow streets, and quaint shops. To-day all was
+    <i>en f&ecirc;te</i>, in preparation for the illuminations
+    to-night.</p>
+
+    <p>Kobe, the foreign settlement, is, on the contrary, bran-new,
+    spick and span, with a handsome parade, and grass and trees,
+    planted boulevard fashion, along the edge of the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 338<a name="Page_338"
+       id="Page_338"></a></span>sea. It is all remarkably clean,
+       but quite uninteresting. To-night, however, it looked very
+       well, illuminated by thousands and thousands of coloured
+       paper lanterns, arranged in all sorts of fanciful devices.
+       It was dark and clear, and there was no wind, so that
+       everything went off well.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_353"
+             id="Illus_353"></a> <img src="images/t_353.jpg"
+             width="235"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: A family group"
+             title="Illustration: A family group" /><br />
+        <b>A family group</b><br />
+        <a href="images/353.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, February 6th</i>.&mdash;My cold being still bad,
+    Mabelle by no means well yet, and Tom very busy, we at first
+    thought of keeping quiet to-day. But our time is so short, that
+    we could not afford to waste it; so half our party started
+    early for Kioto, it being arranged that Tom and Mabelle should
+    follow us by an early train to-morrow. It was a wet cheerless
+    day, and the country did not look its best. Still, the novelty
+    of the scenes around could not fail to make them interesting.
+    The Japanese have an intense horror of rain, and it was
+    ludicrous to see the peasants walking along with scarcely any
+    clothes on except a pair of high clogs, a large hat, and a
+    paper umbrella. We crossed several large bridges, stopped at a
+    great many stations, where heaps of native travellers got in
+    and out, and finally reached Kioto at half-past two o'clock. It
+    was still raining, and all the <i>jinrikisha</i> men wore their
+    large rain hats and rain cloaks, made either of reeds or of
+    oiled paper. Most of the <i>jinrikishas</i>, too, had oiled
+    paper hoods and aprons.</p>
+
+    <p>The drive to our hotel, through long, narrow, crowded,
+    picturesque streets, seemed long and wearisome. It was still a
+    holiday, and remains of the previous night's illuminations were
+    to be seen on all sides. The large paper lanterns still
+    remained fastened to the high poles, <span class="pagenum">Page
+    339<a name="Page_339"
+       id="Page_339"></a></span>with an open umbrella at the top to
+       afford protection from the rain.</p>
+
+    <p>Kioto is a thoroughly Japanese town. I do not suppose it
+    contains a single European resident; so that the manners and
+    customs of the natives may be seen in perfection. Its theatres
+    and jugglers are famous throughout Japan. In the suburb, where
+    the two hotels are situated, stand numberless tea-houses and
+    other places of entertainment. Our hotel is situated half-way
+    up the hill called Maruyama.</p>
+
+    <p>After about three-quarters of an hour's ride in the
+    <i>jinrikiska</i>, we were deposited at the bottom of a flight
+    of steps, which appeared to lead to a temple, but by which we
+    reached the hotel in about five minutes. We were received by
+    servants, who bowed to the ground, but who did not speak a word
+    which we could understand. The rooms looked clean and
+    comfortable, and the dining-room boasted a table and six
+    chairs, besides several screens and <i>hibatchis</i>. The
+    bedrooms, too, had beds, screens, and washstands; quite an
+    unexpected luxury. Still more so was a strip of glass about
+    half-way up the screens, through which we could admire the fine
+    prospect. Anything in the shape of a transparent window is a
+    complete novelty in a Japanese house, where, in winter, you
+    feel as if you were imprisoned. The view from the verandah of
+    the hotel over the pretty fantastic garden, the temple grounds,
+    the town of Kioto, and the mountains in the distance was an
+    endless source of delight to me.</p>
+
+    <p>The servants soon produced a luncheon, excellently well
+    cooked; and' directly we had finished it we sallied forth again
+    to see what we could before dark. First we went to the temple
+    of Gion, a fine building, standing in extensive grounds, and
+    surrounded by smaller temples and houses for the priests. The
+    Dutch envoys used to stay here when they were brought through
+    the country, like prisoners, to pay their annual tribute for
+    being allowed to <span class="pagenum">Page
+    340<a name="Page_340"
+       id="Page_340"></a></span>trade with Japan. They were
+       subjected to all kinds of indignities, and used to be made
+       to dance and sing, pretend to be drunk, and play all sorts
+       of pranks, for the amusement of the whole court as well as
+       for the Mikado and the empress, hidden behind a grating.</p>
+
+    <p>From Gion we went to see other temples, and wandered about
+    under the large conifers of all kinds, trying to find out the
+    quarters of the British Legation for some time, until Sir Harry
+    Parkes returned. The rooms at his residence were comfortable,
+    but cold-looking, for mats and paper screens do not look nice
+    in a frost. There were tables and chairs and paraffin lamps,
+    but no bedsteads, only about a dozen cotton and silk quilts,
+    some of which were supposed to serve as a couch, while others
+    were to be used as coverings.</p>
+
+    <p>Sir Harry has had, I fear, a great deal of trouble about the
+    yacht. She is the first vessel of the kind ever seen in Japan,
+    with the exception of the one sent out in 1858 as a present
+    from the Queen to the then Tycoon, and now used by the Mikado.
+    The officials, it seems, cannot make the 'Sunbeam' out. 'Is she
+    a man-of-war? We know what that is.' 'No.' 'Is she a merchant
+    ship?' 'No; she is a yacht.' But what can be the object of a
+    vessel without guns is quite beyond their comprehension. At
+    last it has been settled that, in order to be like other
+    nations, the Japanese officials will not force us to enter at
+    the Custom House, or to pay a fine of sixty dollars a day for
+    not doing so. As a matter of precedent, it was important that
+    the point should be settled, though I hardly imagine that many
+    yachts will follow our example, and come out to Japan through
+    the Straits of Magellan and across the Pacific.</p>
+
+    <p>As it was now growing late, we returned to the hotel for
+    dinner. The night was cold, and <i>hibatchis</i> and lamps
+    alike failed to warm the thinly walled and paper-screened room.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 341<a name="Page_341"
+       id="Page_341"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>Sir Harry Parkes came and spent the evening with us, and
+    taught us more about Japan in two or three hours than we could
+    have learned by much study of many books. The fact is, that in
+    this fast-changing country guide-books get out of date in two
+    or three years. Besides which, Sir Harry has been one of the
+    chief actors in many of the most prominent events we have
+    recently been reading about. To hear him describe graphically
+    the wars of 1868, and the Christian persecutions in 1870, with
+    the causes that led to the revolution, and the effect it has
+    had on the country, was indeed interesting. Still more so was
+    his account of his journey hither to force the newly emerged
+    Mikado and his Ministers to sign the treaty, which had already
+    received the assent (of course valueless) of the deposed
+    Tycoon.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, February 7th</i>.&mdash;A misty but much
+    warmer morning succeeded a wet night. At 8.30 Sir Harry Parkes
+    and two other gentlemen arrived, and we all started at once in
+    jinrikishas to see what could be seen in the limited time at
+    our disposal. We went first to the temple of Gion Chiosiu,
+    described elaborately in books by other travellers. It is
+    specially interesting to Europeans, as it was the temple
+    assigned to the foreign envoys when they paid their first visit
+    to the Mikado in 1868. Sir Harry Parkes showed us all their
+    apartments, and the large though subsidiary temple once used as
+    a hospital, and we afterwards went to see the service performed
+    in the temple. A dozen bonzes, or priests, were sitting round
+    in a circle, chanting monotonously from ponderous volumes, with
+    an occasional accompaniment from a gong or drum. Incense was
+    being burned, vestments worn, processions formed, and prayers
+    offered to Buddha to intercede with the Supreme Being. The
+    accessories and surroundings were of course different, but the
+    ceremonial struck me as being much the same as that in use at
+    Roman Catholic places of worship. Mr. Simpson, however, thinks
+    differently. He says:</p>
+
+    <p>'I was only a month in Japan, and that is far too short
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 342<a name="Page_342"
+       id="Page_342"></a></span> a time for anything like serious
+       study; but I was much struck by the temples, and I find I
+       have some notes in my book comparing them with the Jewish.
+       How any direct connection could possibly exist, is far
+       beyond my powers of conjecture; but I will state the points
+       of resemblance, and leave others to inquire further and
+       collect additional information. Wood and bronze to this day
+       furnish the material of which temples are constructed in
+       Japan, with stone as a base. Such also were the materials of
+       Solomon's temple. There are enclosures round each court or
+       shrine, and sometimes these courts are three in number.
+       Hills or groves are usually sites for a temple, the ascent
+       to which is by a long flight of steps; usually two flights
+       give access to the shrine. One is long, straight, and steep,
+       for the men; the other, less steep, but curved, is for the
+       women. It will be remembered that it was the great stairs at
+       Solomon's temple that so impressed the Queen of Sheba. Small
+       shrines or miniature temples, called Tenno Samma, or
+       "Heaven's Lord," are carried on staves, like the Ark of the
+       Covenant, at their religious ceremonies. The inner shrine,
+       or Holy of Holies, is small, and a cube, or nearly so, in
+       proportion. It is usually detached behind the other portions
+       of the temple, the door being closed, so that it cannot be
+       seen into, and it generally contains, not an image, but a
+       tablet, or what the Japanese call a "Gohei," or piece of
+       paper, cut so that it hangs down in folds on each side. In
+       the early days of writing, a tablet was a book, a stylus the
+       pen. The stone on which the law was inscribed was only a
+       form of the book, and the Chinese ancestral tablet, or other
+       tablet, in a temple, is only a variety of this book form.
+       These "Goheis" are so common in Japan, and occupy so
+       important a place in all their temples, that I had a great
+       desire to know what they originally meant; but as on many
+       questions of this kind I could get no information, the only
+       suggestion which presented itself to me was, that it might
+       be some form of the book, for the book was a very sacred
+       <span class="pagenum">Page 343<a name="Page_343"
+       id="Page_343"></a></span>thing in past time, and that which
+       is yet called the "Ark," in a Jewish synagogue, contains now
+       nothing but a book. There is a distinct priesthood who wear
+       vestments, and they use incense, music, and bells. There are
+       two religions in Japan, Buddhism and Shintooism; the latter
+       being the primitive faith, and the former an importation
+       from China. The forms of the two have become slightly mixed,
+       both in the construction of their temples and in the
+       ceremonial; but the remarks I have just made apply
+       particularly to the Shintoo religion.'</p>
+
+    <p>One of the late acts of the government has been to declare
+    the Shintoo, as the old religion of the country, to be the only
+    State faith. This is the disestablishment of Buddhism, but it
+    does not imply its suppression. The Buddhist priests complain
+    very much, saying that their temples are not now so popular,
+    and many are being closed. Speculators are buying up their fine
+    bronze bells, and sending them home to be coined into English
+    pennies and halfpennies. Changes in faith present many strange
+    aspects, and this is certainly a curious one.</p>
+
+    <p>We strolled about the temple grounds, and ascended the hill
+    to see the famous bell, which is the second biggest in Japan.
+    The immense beam which strikes it was unlashed from the
+    platform for our edification, and the bell sent forth a
+    magnificent sound, pealing over the city and through the woods.
+    At one of the gates there is a curious staircase, leading up to
+    the top, and there, over the gate, is seated a figure of
+    Buddha, surrounded by twelve disciples, all carved in wood and
+    coloured. They are quite worth a scramble up to see.</p>
+
+    <p>From Chiosiu we went right across the city to the temple of
+    Nishni Hongangi. On our way we were more than once stopped and
+    turned off the direct road, which was kept by soldiers for the
+    passage of the Mikado to worship at the tombstone of his
+    innumerable ancestors, real or imaginary. Being a spiritual
+    Emperor, he has to be well <span class="pagenum">Page
+    344<a name="Page_344"
+       id="Page_344"></a></span>kept up to his religious duties,
+       and is always being sent off to worship at some shrine or
+       another, in order to maintain his popularity with the
+       people, his Ministers meanwhile managing the affairs of
+       state. Tanjo and Ikawura went off in haste to-day to Tokio,
+       as there are rumours of a rebellion in the south.</p>
+
+    <p>Nishni Hongangi is one of the largest and finest temples we
+    have yet seen, even in spite of a large portion having been
+    destroyed by the disastrous fire of 1864. The gates are
+    splendidly ornamented, with carved chrysanthemum flowers. The
+    centre temple is very fine, and is surrounded by smaller rooms,
+    all decorated by the best Japanese artists of about two hundred
+    years ago. Notice had been sent that the English Minister was
+    coming with a party of friends, and everything had accordingly
+    been prepared for our reception. In some places they had even
+    put down carpets, to obviate the necessity of our having to
+    take off our boots. The Abbot was out, which I much regretted,
+    for he belongs to the Montos, the most advanced sect of
+    Buddhism, and has more than once remarked to English visitors
+    that he thought their own principles were so enlightened that
+    they were paving the way for a higher form of religion, in the
+    shape of Christianity&mdash;rather a startling confession to
+    come from the lips of a Buddhist priest.</p>
+
+    <p>After spending a long time among the paintings,
+    wood-carvings, lacquers, bronzes, and gardens, we left the
+    temple, and crossed several court-yards, before the main street
+    was reached. Then, after a short walk, we came to another
+    beautiful garden, laid out like a miniature park, with lakes,
+    bridges, rocks, streams, canals, pavilions, &amp;c. All these
+    surround a house built by the celebrated Tycoon, Tako Sama, in
+    the fifteenth century. Here, again, everything was prepared for
+    our reception. Fires were lighted, flowers arranged, carpets
+    laid down, and fruit and cakes placed in readiness, with
+    <i>hibatchis</i> to warm each and all of us. We went all over
+    the house, which differs little from a Japanese
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 345<a name="Page_345"
+       id="Page_345"></a></span>house of the present day, except
+       that a higher style of art was employed in its construction
+       and decoration.</p>
+
+    <p>From here we went to quite another quarter of the city to
+    see what was formerly the Tycoon's palace, now used as a sort
+    of police office. It is built on the same plan of three
+    enclosures as all the <i>yashgis</i>, though on a very
+    different scale from the one at Tokio. There, the Tycoon reigns
+    in undisturbed sovereignty. Here, he appears as a humble
+    servant of his rightful master&mdash;really his prisoner. The
+    late Tycoon, after the last battle, fought at this place, fled
+    to his castle at Osaka, where, though he might have held out
+    for an indefinite period, he preferred to surrender. Two of his
+    Ministers came to him and represented that he must not only
+    think of himself, but of the party who supported the Shogunate,
+    and that as he had betrayed them by false hopes he had no
+    choice but to perform Hara-kiru. This he refused to do,
+    although they set him the example; and he is now living as a
+    private individual on an estate in the country, not far from
+    Tokio, where he amuses himself with hunting, shooting, and
+    fishing. It is said that it is possible he may one day join the
+    ministry of the present Mikado.</p>
+
+    <p>From the Tycoon's palace we drove to the 'Toshio,' or court
+    quarter of the town, where the Mikado and all his relatives
+    live, in palaces, surrounded by large gardens, enclosed in
+    whitewashed walls. We saw the whole of Tako Sama's household
+    furniture and wearing apparel, the celebrated swords of
+    Yoritiome, called the 'knee-cutter' and the 'beard-cutter,'
+    from their wonderful sharpness, and many other interesting
+    objects.</p>
+
+    <p>Here we said good-bye to Sir Harry Parkes, and returned
+    across the town by another route to our hotel to lunch, after
+    which we made another expedition to one or two more temples,
+    and then to a pawnbroker's shop, in the heart of the city,
+    which had been strongly recommended to us. The exterior did not
+    look promising; the <span class="pagenum">Page
+    346<a name="Page_346"
+       id="Page_346"></a></span> shop itself was small and dirty;
+       and they had to take some very filthy garments out of the
+       way before we could enter. Once inside, however, it was a
+       very different story. They showed us splendid old
+       embroideries, and quantities of second-hand court dresses,
+       embroidered in gold, silver, and colours, with exquisite
+       designs. The Empress has thirteen ladies of honour, who wear
+       their best dresses only twice, and then sell them: hence the
+       pawnbrokers abundant stock.</p>
+
+    <p>Wherever we went a large but perfectly civil crowd followed
+    us, and people ran on before to tell others to come to their
+    doors and look at us, though we were under the charge of an
+    officer and two men. It was now getting dark, and we were very
+    tired; so we at last turned back, and once more climbed those
+    weary steps to our hotel. To-night there is some
+    <i>f&ecirc;te</i> going on in this suburb, and the whole place
+    is alive with lights, dancing, music, and tum-tums.</p>
+
+    <p>After dinner all our purchases arrived, each accompanied by
+    at least four or five men. Other people had heard of our visit,
+    and had brought more things for us to look at; so that the room
+    soon resembled a bazaar. At last we got rid of them, having
+    settled that they should pack our things and take them down to
+    Kobe, where they would be paid for. The Japanese shopkeepers,
+    though difficult to deal with, are incorruptible when once the
+    bargain is made. They pack most carefully, frequently adding
+    boxes, bags, and baskets, not originally included in the
+    purchase, in order that the articles may travel more safely.
+    The smallest article is sure to be put in, and the greatest
+    care is taken of everything, even if they know you do not mean
+    to open the cases for months.</p>
+
+    <p>If it were only warmer, how delightful it would all be! The
+    cold spoils everything to a certain extent. At night we have to
+    choose whether to be half frozen in our beds, or stifled with
+    the fumes of charcoal from the <i>hibatchis</i>.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 347<a name="Page_347"
+       id="Page_347"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, February 8th</i>.&mdash;The sunrise over the
+    city, with the river and mountains beyond, was superb. We
+    breakfasted at eight; but even by that hour the courtyard and
+    passage were crowded with vendors of curiosities of all sorts,
+    and no doubt great bargains might have been picked up. But we
+    had no time to lose, for our train started at 9.30, and we had
+    a delightfully rapid drive to the station through the sunny
+    streets of Kioto.</p>
+
+    <p>Arrived at Kobe, we went first to lunch with some friends,
+    and immediately after hastened on board to receive the foreign
+    Ministers and other friends; and did not land again that
+    evening.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, February 9th</i>.&mdash;We left by ten o'clock
+    train for Osaka, which has been called the Venice of Japan. It
+    is intersected by innumerable rivers and canals, and boats were
+    continually making their appearance at points where they were
+    least expected, as our <i>jinrikisha</i> men hurried us along
+    the narrow and not very sweet-smelling streets. We went so fast
+    that, more than once before we reached the Mint, I thought we
+    should have been tipped into one of the canals, as we turned a
+    sharp corner. Our men upset the baskets and stalls that
+    encroached on the road, in the most unceremonious manner; but
+    their proprietors did not seem to mind, many of them quietly
+    moving their wares out of the way as they heard the shouts that
+    announced our approach. The smell in the fish-market was
+    disgusting, and enough to poison the air for miles around, but
+    the people did not seem to mind it in the least.</p>
+
+    <p>At last we left the river and town, and, climbing a slight
+    eminence, crossed the first moat by a stone bridge, and reached
+    the guard-house on the other side. There was some hesitation at
+    first about admitting us; but it was soon overcome. This
+    castle, the last stronghold of the Tycoon, is built on exactly
+    the same plan as the <i>yashgis</i> we had already visited, but
+    much stronger, being composed of enormous blocks of stone. One
+    wonders how human <span class="pagenum">Page
+    348<a name="Page_348"
+       id="Page_348"></a></span>labour could ever have transported
+       them from their quarry to this place, for some measured 40
+       ft. long by 20 ft. high. We crossed the three moats and the
+       three enclosures, now all full of barracks and soldiers. In
+       the very centre, the old well and a little square tower are
+       still standing, part of the Tycoon's original residence,
+       which was destroyed by fire. The view from the top over the
+       town and surrounding country is very fine. You can see
+       countless streams coming from the mountains, and flowing
+       into Odawarra, on which Osaka is situated. The course of the
+       river itself could be traced to the bay; and the line of
+       coast to Kobe, and the far-off mountains in the Inland Sea
+       were plainly visible.</p>
+
+    <p>On returning to the Mint we found luncheon awaiting us, and
+    afterwards spent a pleasant time looking at a wonderful
+    collection of curios.</p>
+
+    <p>The Imperial Mint of Japan is a large handsome building, in
+    great force just now, for the whole of the old money is being
+    called in and replaced by the government. The contrast between
+    the two moneys is very great. The ancient coinage consisted of
+    long thin oval obangs and shobangs, worth from two dollars to
+    eighteen pounds each, square silver itzeboos, and square copper
+    pieces, with a hole in the centre; while that which is taking
+    its place is similar to European coinage, and is marked in
+    English characters, and ornamented with Japanese devices, such
+    as the phoenix and the dragon. It did not seem worth while to
+    go minutely over the Mint, as it is arranged on exactly the
+    same principle as the one in London, and the processes are
+    carried out in the same manner.</p>
+
+    <p>Osaka used to be the emporium of all the inland commerce,
+    and was considered the pearl of Japanese cities. After the
+    revolution, and when the Mint was built, there was some
+    intention of making it the capital of the empire. That idea
+    was, however, abandoned; and the inconvenience of having the
+    Mint so far away from the seat of government is
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 349<a name="Page_349"
+       id="Page_349"></a></span>greatly felt, all the bullion
+       having to be sent backwards and forwards at great expense by
+       sea. Commerce has now almost deserted Osaka, owing to the
+       difficulty experienced by large ships in anchoring near the
+       town, and the impossibility of their crossing the bar. The
+       foreign consuls and representatives have all left the place
+       for the newly established settlement at Kobe, where they
+       feel safer, with men-of-war at anchor just under their
+       windows.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_364"
+             id="Illus_364"></a> <img src="images/t_364.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="113"
+             alt="Illustration: Wayside Travellers"
+             title="Illustration: Wayside Travellers" /><br />
+        <b>Wayside Travellers</b><br />
+        <a href="images/364.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>There was just time to go round some of the old streets, and
+    to some of the shops, before the hour by which we were due at
+    the station. Osaka is famous for its waxworks and theatres.
+    Five of the best of these have, however, been burnt down within
+    the last eighteen months, with terrible loss of life. We heard
+    that a short time ago there was nearly being serious trouble,
+    in consequence of one of the managers having produced on the
+    stage, in a most objectionable manner, a representation of the
+    cruel and unprovoked assassination of an officer and two men,
+    part of a boat's crew of a French ship. The English and French
+    consuls went to the governor of the town, who promised that the
+    piece should be stopped, and the obnoxious placards announcing
+    the performance removed at once. But his instructions were not
+    complied with, for the next day the piece was again performed,
+    and the placards were still there. Some French sailors, luckily
+    accompanied <span class="pagenum">Page 350<a name="Page_350"
+       id="Page_350"></a></span> by their officers, saw the latter
+       and wanted to tear them down; but they were persuaded to
+       wait while the consuls were telegraphed for. They came at
+       once, and again saw the governor, who sent some soldiers to
+       stop the play and remove the bills; and so the affair ended
+       peaceably.</p>
+
+    <p>We reached Kobe about seven o'clock, and went on board at
+    once to dinner.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, February 10th</i>.&mdash;We were to have gone
+    early this morning to Arrima, a village in the mountains,
+    situated among groves of bamboos, where there are mineral
+    springs and a hot-water bath, in which people bathe in the old
+    style. But the weather was impossibly bad for our intended
+    expedition, with showers of snow and sleet. We waited till
+    half-past eleven, and then landed and talked of going to Osaka
+    again by train; but finally decided that even this was not
+    practicable, and that we had better stay and potter about at
+    Kobe and Hiogo. The children set out to buy toys, whilst I went
+    with a lady to pay another visit to the white horse and monkeys
+    at the temple, and then walked on to a waterfall, prettily
+    situated in a ravine, a little way behind the town. We
+    afterwards visited several pawnbrokers' shops, at all of which
+    there was something interesting to be seen. Many are perfect
+    museums; but their proprietors never seem to care much to show
+    you what they have, unless you are accompanied by a resident or
+    some one they know. Then they invite you into the iron
+    fire-proof 'godown' or store, at the back, and out of funny
+    little boxes and bags and parcels produce all sorts of rare and
+    curious things which have been sent to them to be sold, or
+    which they may possibly have bought themselves. It is not of
+    the slightest use to go to the large shops, full of things, if
+    you want anything really good, for you will only find there
+    articles specially prepared for the European and American
+    market.</p>
+
+    <p>I am very glad to hear that Dr. Dresser is here, collecting,
+    lecturing, and trying to persuade the Japanese to
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 351<a name="Page_351"
+       id="Page_351"></a></span>adhere to their own forms and taste
+       in art and decoration. It is a great pity to observe the
+       decadence of native art, and at the same time to see how
+       much better the old things are than the new. A true Japanese
+       artist never repeats himself, and consequently never makes
+       an exact pair of anything. His designs agree generally, and
+       his vases are more or less alike, without being a precise
+       match. He throws in a spray of flowers, a bird, or a fan, as
+       the fancy strikes him, and the same objects are therefore
+       never placed in exactly the same relative position. Modern
+       articles are made precisely alike, not only in pairs, but by
+       the dozen and the hundred.</p>
+
+    <p>There are beautiful bantams to be seen in some of the shops
+    here; but they cannot be bought, as they are private pets. They
+    seem generally very small, and one I saw to-day had his head
+    far behind his tail, which divided in the middle outwards, and
+    fell forward on either side of his neck in the most
+    extraordinary way. How he picked up his food and got through
+    life, I am sure I don't know. There are plenty of little
+    Japanese dogs; but they are not seen to advantage this cold
+    weather, and there would be great difficulty in getting them
+    home.</p>
+
+    <p>I bought some fine bantams at Yokohama, and a whole cage
+    full of rice-birds. They are the dearest little things, and
+    spend most of the day bathing and twittering, occasionally
+    getting all together into one nest, with their twenty-five
+    heads peeping out. They are exactly like a magnified grain of
+    rice, with legs and a bill. I hope I shall take them home
+    alive, as they have borne the cold very well so far. We have
+    also some mandarin ducks on board, and some gold and silver
+    fish with two tails. Our sailors have over a hundred birds of
+    their own, which never appear on deck, except on very sunny
+    days. I don't know where they can keep them, unless they stow
+    them away in their Japanese cabinets.</p>
+
+    <p>We went on board about dark, and a few friends came to
+    dinner. <span class="pagenum">Page 352<a name="Page_352"
+       id="Page_352"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, February 11th</i>.&mdash;About 7 a.m., two
+    Japanese officers came on board with a message which nobody
+    could understand. When we went on deck, we saw that all the
+    ships were dressed, and concluded that we had been asked to do
+    the same; but we thought it better to send ashore to ascertain
+    positively. The next difficulty was to get a Japanese flag. Tom
+    went on board the 'Thabor,' a Japanese ship, to borrow one, and
+    found everything was in bustle and confusion, news having
+    arrived from Kiusiu that the rebels were mustering in great
+    force, and that they had seized some ships. The 'Thabor,' 'Mihu
+    Maru,' and three others, are therefore to go through the Inland
+    Sea to Nagasaki this afternoon.</p>
+
+    <p>The Japanese admiral sent word early this morning that he
+    would come on board at two o'clock with some of his captains,
+    and the French admiral also expressed a hope that it would be
+    convenient to receive him and his captains at three. Their
+    visits occupied nearly all the afternoon. We afterwards landed
+    with the French admiral, paid some farewell visits, and went to
+    look at a collection of old lacquer and Satsuma china, before
+    we returned to the yacht.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 353<a name="Page_353"
+       id="Page_353"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XXI"
+       id="CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">THE INLAND SEA.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>Dipped in the lines of sunset, wreathed in
+            zones</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>The clouds are resting
+            on their mountain thrones</i>;<br /></span>
+            <span><i>One peak alone exalts its glacier
+            crest</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>A golden paradise
+            above the rest</i>.<br /></span> <span><i>Thither the
+            day with lingering steps retires</i>,<br /></span>
+            <span><i>And in its own blue element
+            expires</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, February 12th</i>.&mdash;Fires were lighted at 4
+    a.m., and by six we were steaming slowly out of the beautiful
+    bay of Kobe. It was a cold bright morning, with a strong head
+    wind, increasing every moment as we proceeded, until, in the
+    straits of Akashi, it became almost impossible to make any way
+    against it. There was not much sea, but the wind impeded our
+    progress so much, that it was at last reduced to one mile
+    instead of nine an hour. The straits are very fine, and the old
+    castle presents an admirable specimen of the architecture of a
+    Daimio's residence.</p>
+
+    <p>We proceeded across the Harima Nada, where we were more or
+    less exposed to the open sea, and where we took more water on
+    board than we had done in the gale before arriving at Yokohama.
+    There were no big waves, but we rolled tremendously, and the
+    spray came over us, though the mere force of the wind seemed to
+    keep the sea down.</p>
+
+    <p>After struggling until twelve o'clock, and having done but
+    little good for the last three hours, Tom determined to run
+    back, and in a short time we found ourselves once more at
+    anchor in the harbour of Kobe. It was a work of considerable
+    difficulty, owing to the strong wind and tide, to steer
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 354<a name="Page_354"
+       id="Page_354"></a></span>safely among the numerous vessels,
+       and for a few minutes we thought we were aground, as we did
+       not make the slightest progress, though the engines were
+       working ahead full speed. The proveedor's boat came out to
+       us as soon as we were perceived, and we landed in her; but
+       it was as much as the six stout oarsmen could do to make way
+       against the wind.</p>
+
+    <p>We went for a walk, or rather a scramble, to the waterfall,
+    half-way up to the Temple of the Moon. Much of the ground was
+    covered with snow, the streams were frozen at the sides, and
+    there were hanging icicles to be seen, six feet in length; and
+    yet on either side were camellias and tea-trees covered with
+    red and white blossoms, orange-trees, laden with fruit;
+    gold-fish swimming about in ponds, overhung with maidenhair
+    fern, besides pteris and hothouse ferns, shaded by bamboos,
+    palms, and castor-oil plants. The order of vegetation seems to
+    be as much reversed as everything else in this strange country.
+    In England all those plants would require conservatories, or at
+    least sheltered spots, and the greatest care, instead of being
+    exposed to frost and snow.</p>
+
+    <p>Getting on board again was even a more difficult business
+    than landing had been; but we arrived at last without
+    mishap.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, February 13th</i>.&mdash;The wind dropped at
+    sunset, and as it continued calm all night, Tom ordered fires
+    to be lighted at 4 a.m. By six o'clock, however, it was blowing
+    harder than ever, and we therefore decided to make an excursion
+    to Arrima instead of attempting another start.</p>
+
+    <p>We went ashore to make the necessary arrangements, and it
+    was settled that we should start at ten o'clock, which we did,
+    with the Consulate constable as our guide.</p>
+
+    <p>We had three men to each <i>jinrikisha</i>, and went along
+    at a merry pace through the long straggling towns of Kobe and
+    Hiogo. The cold was intense, and before we started our poor
+    <i>jinrikisha</i> men were shivering until they nearly shook
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 355<a name="Page_355"
+       id="Page_355"></a></span>us out of the vehicles. Soon they
+       were streaming with perspiration, and at our first
+       halting-place they took off almost all their garments,
+       though it was as much as we could do to keep warm in our
+       furs and wraps. We waited while they partook copiously of
+       hot tea and bowls of rice, and bought new straw shoes, or
+       rather sandals, for less than a farthing a pair.</p>
+
+    <p>To-day being the Japanese New Year's Day, all the little
+    shrines in the houses and along the road were prettily
+    decorated, and had offerings of rice, <i>saki</i>, and fruit
+    deposited upon them. The spirits of the departed are supposed
+    to come down and partake, not of the things themselves, but of
+    the subtle invisible essence that rises from them. The road now
+    became very pretty, winding through the valleys, climbing up
+    and dipping down the various hills, and passing through
+    picturesque villages, where all the people, leaving their meals
+    or their games, came out to look at us, while some of the
+    children scampered on to secure a good view of the foreigners,
+    and others ran away frightened and screaming. They were all
+    dressed in dark blue clothes, turned up with red, with bright
+    embroidered <i>obis</i> and flowers in their elaborately
+    dressed hair. I have managed to get some dolls' wigs, which
+    give a good idea of the various styles of hair-dressing.</p>
+
+    <p>In rather more than three hours we reached Arrima, a village
+    far more beautifully situated than any we had seen, in the very
+    centre of the mountains, where a dozen valleys converge into
+    one centre. On one side are mineral springs, on the other a
+    river. Bamboos grow luxuriantly on all sides, and the
+    inhabitants of the various valleys obtain their livelihood by
+    manufacturing from them all sorts of articles: boxes for every
+    conceivable purpose; baskets, fine and coarse, large and small,
+    useful and ornamental, coloured and plain; brushes, pipes,
+    battledores and shuttlecocks, sticks, spoons, knives and forks,
+    sauce ladles, boats, lamps, cradles, &amp;c.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 356<a name="Page_356"
+       id="Page_356"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>The first glimpse of the village is lovely; that from the
+    bridge that crosses the river is still more so. We clambered up
+    narrow streets, with quaint carved houses and overhanging
+    balconies, till we reached a tea-house, kept by a closely
+    shaven bonze, or priest. He seemed very pleased to see us, and
+    bowed and shook hands over and over again. He placed his whole
+    house at our disposal, and a very clean, pretty, and
+    well-arranged house it was, with a lovely little formal garden,
+    ornamented with mimic temples and bridges of ice, fashioned by
+    the hard frost, with but little assistance from the hand of
+    man. Bits of wood and stone, a few graceful fern-leaves and
+    sprays of bamboo, and a trickling stream of water produced the
+    most fairy-like crystalline effects imaginable. If only some
+    good fairy could, with a touch of her wand, preserve it all
+    intact until a few months hence, what a delight it would be in
+    the hot summer weather!</p>
+
+    <p>To-day the paper house was indeed cold; but even so slight a
+    shelter from the bitter wind was acceptable, though we
+    regretted the screens could not be opened to enable us to
+    admire the prospect on all sides. The luncheon basket being
+    quickly unpacked, the good priest warmed our food and produced
+    a bottle of port wine, which he mulled for our benefit. Cheered
+    and refreshed we proceeded on our way, leaving him much
+    delighted with what seemed to us but a small recompense for his
+    courtesy.</p>
+
+    <p>Every house and shop in those narrow picturesque streets was
+    a study in itself, and so were the quaint groups of people we
+    met, and who gazed eagerly at us. We looked into the public
+    baths, two oblong tanks, into which the mineral springs came
+    bubbling up, thick and yellow, and strongly impregnated with
+    iron, at a temperature of 112&deg;. They are covered in, and
+    there is a rough passage round them. Here, in the bathing
+    season, people of both sexes stand in rows, packed as tight as
+    herrings in a barrel, and there are just as many outside
+    waiting their turn to <span class="pagenum">Page
+    357<a name="Page_357"
+       id="Page_357"></a></span>enter. To-day there were only two
+       bathers, immersed up to their chins in the steaming water.
+       They had left all their clothes at home, and would shortly
+       have to pass through the streets without any covering,
+       notwithstanding the cold.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_372"
+             id="Illus_372"></a> <img src="images/t_372.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="155"
+             alt="Illustration: Arrima. The Village of Bamboo Basket Work"
+             title="Illustration: Arrima. The Village of Bamboo Basket Work" />
+        <br />
+        <b>Arrima. The Village of Bamboo Basket Work</b><br />
+        <a href="images/372.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>From the baths we went to some of the best basket shops,
+    where the beauty and cheapness of the articles exposed for sale
+    offered great temptations. We had to disturb our
+    <i>jinrikiska</i> men, who were enjoying their frugal meal at a
+    separate tea-house. It was beautifully served, and as clean and
+    nicely cooked as possible, though consisting of viands which we
+    might not have fancied, such as various kinds of fish, seaweed,
+    sea-snails (<i>b&ecirc;che de mer</i>), and rice. Each man had
+    his own little table and eight or ten separate dishes, a bottle
+    of <i>saki</i>, tea-pipe, and <i>hibatchi</i>, arranged exactly
+    as ours had been at the tea-house at Yokohama. How well they
+    managed their chop-sticks, how quickly they shovelled the food
+    down, and how clean they left each dish! Habit is
+    everything.</p>
+
+    <p>We were anxious to make the best of our way home, and
+    starting at four, with but a short stop at the halfway
+    tea-house, <span class="pagenum">Page 358<a name="Page_358"
+       id="Page_358"></a></span>we reached the hotel soon after
+       seven, having taken less than an hour to come five miles
+       over a very bad road, an inch deep in mud. So much for a
+       'man-power carriage,' the literal translation of the word
+       <i>jinrikisha</i><a name="FNanchor_18_18"
+       id="FNanchor_18_18">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_18_18"
+       class="fnanchor">[18]</a> Soon after an excellent dinner we
+       returned on board, so as to be ready for an early start
+       to-morrow morning.</p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_18_18"
+           id="Footnote_18_18"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a>
+           Or 'pull-man-car,' as it is sometimes called.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, February 14th</i>.&mdash;We were called at 4
+    a.m. Fires were lighted, but before steam was up the wind had
+    risen; so our start was once more postponed to the afternoon.
+    We steamed out to the buoy, from among the shipping, in order
+    to be able to get away more easily at night. The wind generally
+    goes down at sunset, and Tom hoped that, by taking our
+    departure then, we should get through the worst part of the
+    Inland Sea before the wind again rose with the sun.</p>
+
+    <p>After breakfast we went ashore, and dispersed in different
+    directions, to meet again at the hotel for luncheon. Then we
+    all again separated, the children going to the circus, whilst I
+    took a drive, with a pair of black and white Hakodadi ponies,
+    to the foot of the hills behind the town.</p>
+
+    <p>It was a pleasant circuit by pretty valleys, and brought us
+    back to the town by a different road. I went to pick up the
+    children at the circus, and found them just coming out, with
+    delighted faces, having most thoroughly enjoyed themselves.
+    They went on board to tea, but Mabelle and I went with the
+    Consul in <i>jinrikishas</i> to a Japanese theatre at Hiogo.
+    The streets were crowded with holiday-makers; for to-day is the
+    first of the Chinese new year, as yesterday was the first of
+    the Japanese new year. The floor of the theatre was crowded
+    with people, all squatting on their heels, each with his or her
+    chow-chow box and <i>hibatchi</i> or brazier of burning
+    charcoal to keep themselves warm. The performance frequently
+    goes on for ten or twelve hours, with short intervals and whole
+    families come and take up their abode at the theatre for twelve
+    hours at a <span class="pagenum">Page 359<a name="Page_359"
+       id="Page_359"></a></span>time. The acting was not at all
+       bad, and the performers were beautifully dressed.</p>
+
+    <p>We did not stay very long at the theatre, but were soon
+    tearing back again through the streets to the Consulate. These
+    quick rides in a <i>jinrikisha</i>, especially at night, are
+    very amusing. You have the pleasure of going at a high speed,
+    and yet, being on a level with the people, you can see much
+    more of them and of their manners than would be possible in a
+    carriage.</p>
+
+    <p>When we reached the Consulate we found the chief of the
+    police of the foreign settlement waiting for the Consul, to
+    inform him that Japanese soldiers were patrolling the town with
+    fixed bayonets, alleging that information had been sent to the
+    Governor that some of the rebels were in the hills at the back
+    of the town, and might appear at any moment. The ships-of-war
+    were to be communicated with at once for the protection of the
+    inhabitants. They do not expect a general attack here, but seem
+    to think the rebels' plan is to creep up by degrees to Osaka,
+    where the Mikado is shortly expected to stay, and take
+    possession of his person and the imperial treasure at one
+    blow.</p>
+
+    <p>When I got on board the 'Sunbeam' again, I found that steam
+    was up and all was ready for starting; but the wind was still
+    strong against us, and it was evidently necessary again to wait
+    until four o'clock to-morrow morning.</p>
+
+    <p>We were rolling a good deal, and, coming along the
+    engine-room passage, my foot slipped, a door banged to, and my
+    thumb was caught in the hinge and terribly crushed. Dressing it
+    was a very painful affair, as the doctor had to ascertain
+    whether the bone was broken, and I fainted during the
+    operation. At last I was carried to my cabin and put to bed,
+    after taking a strong dose of chloral to soothe the agonising
+    pain.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, February 15th</i>.&mdash;I wonder if anybody
+    who has not experienced it can realise the stupefying, helpless
+    sensation of being roused up from a sound sleep, in the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 360<a name="Page_360"
+       id="Page_360"></a></span>middle of the night, on board ship,
+       by the cry of 'Fire!' and finding oneself enveloped in a
+       smoke so dense as to render everything invisible.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_375"
+             id="Illus_375"></a> <img src="images/t_375.jpg"
+             width="170"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: The Yacht on Fire"
+             title="Illustration: The Yacht on Fire" /><br />
+        <b>The Yacht on Fire</b><br />
+        <a href="images/375.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>At 2.30 a.m. I was awakened by a great noise and a loud cry
+    of 'The ship is on fire!' followed by Mr. Bingham rushing into
+    our cabin to arouse us. At first I could hardly realise where
+    we were, or what was happening, as I was half stupid with
+    chloral, pain, and smoke, which was issuing from each side of
+    the staircase in dense volumes. My first thought was for the
+    children, but I found they had not been forgotten. Rolled up in
+    blankets, they were already in transit to the deck-house. In
+    the meantime Mr. Bingham had drenched the flames with every
+    available jug of water, and Tom had roused the crew, and made
+    them screw the hose on to the pump. They were afraid to open
+    the hatches, to discover where the fire was, until the hose and
+    <i>extincteurs</i> were ready to work, as they did not know
+    whether or not the hold was on fire, and the whole ship might
+    burst <span class="pagenum">Page 361<a name="Page_361"
+       id="Page_361"></a></span>into a blaze the moment the air was
+       admitted. Allen soon appeared with an <i>extincteur</i> on
+       his back, and the mate with the hose. Then the cupboard in
+       Mr. Bingham's room was opened, and burning cloaks, dresses,
+       boxes of curios, portmanteaus, &amp;c., were hauled out,
+       and, by a chain of men, sent on deck, where they were
+       drenched with sea-water or thrown overboard. Moving these
+       things caused the flames to increase in vigour, and the
+       <i>extincteur</i> was used freely, and with the greatest
+       success. It is an invaluable invention, especially for a
+       yacht, where there are so many holes and corners which it
+       would be impossible to reach by ordinary means. All this
+       time the smoke was pouring in volumes from the cupboard on
+       the other side, and from under the nursery fireplace. The
+       floors were pulled up, and the partitions were pulled down,
+       until at last the flames were got under. The holds were next
+       examined. No damage had been done there; but the cabin floor
+       was completely burnt through, and the lead from the nursery
+       fireplace was running about, melted by the heat.</p>
+
+    <p>The explanation of the cause of the fire is very simple.
+    Being a bitterly cold night, a roaring fire had been made up in
+    the nursery, but about half-past ten the servants thought it
+    looked rather dangerous and raked it out. The ashpan was not
+    large enough, however, to hold the hot embers, which soon made
+    the tiles red-hot. The woodwork caught fire, and had been
+    smouldering for hours, when the nurse fortunately woke and
+    discovered the state of affairs. She tried to rouse the other
+    maids, but they were stupefied with the smoke, and so she
+    rushed off at once to the doctor and Mr. Bingham. The former
+    seized a child under each arm, wrapped them in blankets, and
+    carried them off to the deck-house, Mabelle and the maids
+    following, with more blankets and rugs, hastily snatched up.
+    The children were as good as possible. They never cried nor
+    made the least fuss, but composed themselves in the deck-house
+    to sleep for the remainder of the <span class="pagenum">Page
+    362<a name="Page_362"
+       id="Page_362"></a></span> night, as if it were all a matter
+       of course. When I went to see them, little Muriel remarked:
+       'If the yacht is on fire, mamma, had not baby and I better
+       get our ulsters, and go with Emma in the boat to the hotel,
+       to be out of the way?' It is the third time in their short
+       lives that they have been picked out of bed in the middle of
+       the night and carried off in blankets away from a fire, so I
+       suppose they are getting quite used to it.</p>
+
+    <p>There can be no doubt that the preservation of the yacht
+    from very serious damage, if not from complete destruction, was
+    due to the prompt and efficient manner in which the
+    <i>extincteurs</i> were used. It was not our first experience
+    of the value of this invention; for, not very long before we
+    undertook our present expedition, a fire broke out in our house
+    in London, on which occasion the <i>extincteurs</i> we
+    fortunately had at hand rendered most excellent service in
+    subduing the flames.</p>
+
+    <p>By half-past three all danger was past, and we began to
+    settle down again, though it took a long time to get rid of the
+    smoke.</p>
+
+    <p>At four o'clock we weighed anchor, and once more made a
+    start from Kobe, and passed through the Straits of Akashi. The
+    wind was dead ahead, but not so strong as when we made our
+    previous attempts. It was bitterly cold, the thermometer, in a
+    sheltered place, being only one degree above freezing, and the
+    breeze from the snowy mountains cutting like a knife.</p>
+
+    <p>We were all disappointed with our sail to-day; perhaps
+    because we had heard so much of the extreme beauty of the
+    scenery, and this is not the best time of year for seeing it.
+    The hills are all brown, instead of being covered with
+    luxuriant vegetation, and all looked bleak and barren, though
+    the outlines of the mountain ranges were very fine. We were
+    reminded of the west coast of Scotland, the Lofoden Islands in
+    the Arctic Circle, and the tamer portions of the scenery of the
+    Straits of Magellan. <span class="pagenum">Page
+    363<a name="Page_363"
+       id="Page_363"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>After passing through the Straits, we crossed the Harima
+    Nada&mdash;rather a wider portion of the sea&mdash;and then
+    entered the intricate channels among the islands once more.
+    There are three thousand of them altogether, so one may take it
+    for granted that the navigation is by no means easy. The
+    currents and tides are strong, sunken rocks are frequent, and
+    the greatest care is requisite. Indeed, many people at Yokohama
+    urged Tom to take a pilot.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_378"
+             id="Illus_378"></a> <img src="images/t_378.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="149"
+             alt="Illustration: Yoken San or Sacred Mountain, Inland Sea"
+             title="Illustration: Yoken San or Sacred Mountain, Inland Sea" />
+        <br />
+        <b>Yoken San or Sacred Mountain, Inland Sea</b><br />
+        <a href="images/378.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We had one lovely view in the afternoon of the island of
+    Yoken San, with its snowy mountain at the back, and a pretty
+    little village, with a few picturesque junks in the foreground.
+    The yacht passed between Oki Sama and Le Sama, steering
+    straight for the cone-shaped little island of Odutsi. Towards
+    dusk we made the light of Nabae Sinaon Yo Sina, and, steering
+    past it, had to take several sharp and awkward turns, to avoid
+    two reefs off Siyako and Usi Suria. Thus we threaded the St.
+    Vincent's Channel, and, avoiding the Conqueror bank by another
+    sharp turn, dropped anchor at Imo Ura, in Hurusima, precisely
+    at 8.30 p.m. Tom had been on the look-out since 5 a.m., and we
+    were all more or less worn out with the fatigue and excitement
+    of last night. <span class="pagenum">Page 364<a name="Page_364"
+       id="Page_364"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, February 16th</i>.&mdash;Off again at 4 a.m. The
+    scenery was much finer than yesterday, and the wind not quite
+    so bitterly cold.</p>
+
+    <p>About 11 a.m. I heard a hurrying to and fro, and once more
+    the cry of 'Fire!' This time it was in the store-room that it
+    broke out. The iron plates on which the saloon and galley
+    grates are fixed had become red-hot, and the wooden deck below
+    had consequently caught fire. The boxes on both sides,
+    containing the stores, were in flames; but they were quickly
+    removed, water was poured down, and the second and third fires
+    were thus soon extinguished.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_379"
+             id="Illus_379"></a> <img src="images/t_379.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="152"
+             alt="Illustration: Hurusima, Inland Sea"
+             title="Illustration: Hurusima, Inland Sea" /><br />
+        <b>Hurusima, Inland Sea</b><br />
+        <a href="images/379.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, February 17th</i>.&mdash;At 3.15 a.m. we began
+    to slow; at 3.45 the anchor was dropped near the lighthouse of
+    Isaki, and we waited until daylight before proceeding through
+    the Straits of Simono-seki. About nine o'clock a fresh start
+    was made, under steam, but before long the wind freshened, and
+    as soon as the anchorage near the town was reached we let go
+    once more, near two men-of-war, who had preceded us from Kobe,
+    but who were now wind-bound, like ourselves.</p>
+
+    <p>To our astonishment, we also saw a large ship from Nova
+    Scotia at anchor, the 'Mary Fraser,' although this is not a
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 365<a name="Page_365"
+       id="Page_365"></a></span>free port, nor within treaty
+       limits. The gig was lowered at once, and we rowed alongside
+       to gain what intelligence could be learned, as well as to
+       ascertain what likelihood there might be of our obtaining
+       fresh supplies here. The captain was very civil and kind,
+       and volunteered to go on shore with us and act as our
+       interpreter. We landed opposite a large teahouse, where we
+       were immediately surrounded by a crowd of Japanese, who
+       stared at us eagerly and even touched us, only through
+       curiosity. They pursued us wherever we went, and when we
+       entered a tea-house or shop the whole crowd immediately
+       stopped, and if we retired to the back they surged all over
+       the front premises, and penetrated into the interior as far
+       as they could. A most amusing scene took place at one of the
+       tea-houses, where we went to order some provisions for the
+       yacht. It was rather a tedious process, and when we came out
+       of the back room we found the whole of the front of the
+       place filled by a gaping, curious crowd. The proprietor
+       suggested that they should retire at once, and an abrupt
+       retreat immediately took place, the difficulties of which
+       were greatly augmented by the fact that every one had left
+       his high wooden shoes outside, along the front of the house.
+       The street was ankle deep in mud and half-melted snow, into
+       which they did not like to venture in their stockings; but
+       how the owners of two or three hundred pairs of clogs,
+       almost exactly alike, ever found their own property again I
+       do not understand, though they managed to clear out very
+       quickly. I believe Muriel and I were the chief objects of
+       attraction. They told us that no European lady or child had
+       ever been at Simono-seki before. It is not a treaty port, so
+       no one is allowed to land, except from a man-of-war, without
+       special permission, which is not often given; it is,
+       besides, the key to the Inland Sea, and the authorities are
+       very jealous about any one seeing the forts. There is only
+       one European resident here, connected with the telegraph;
+       and a dull time he must have of it. The wire crosses the
+       Straits a few miles higher up. <span class="pagenum">Page
+       366<a name="Page_366"
+       id="Page_366"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>The streets appeared to be full of soldiers, patrolling
+    singly and in pairs, with fixed bayonets. The temples were
+    being used as barracks, and the principal buildings seemed to
+    be strongly guarded; but otherwise everything appeared to go on
+    as usual.</p>
+
+    <p>We waded through the mud and snow to the proverbial end of
+    all things, always followed by the same crowd, and stared at by
+    all the inhabitants of the houses we passed. They seemed very
+    timid, and inclined to run away directly we turned round.
+    Still, their curiosity, especially respecting my sealskin
+    jacket and serge dress, was insatiable, and I constantly felt
+    myself being gently stroked and touched.</p>
+
+    <p>We returned to the yacht, and whilst we were at lunch some
+    officers came on board to say that, this not being a treaty
+    port, we could not purchase any provisions, except through
+    them, and with special permission. This was soon arranged, and
+    our visitors were rewarded for their trouble by being shown
+    over the yacht.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, February 18th</i>.&mdash;We were awakened in the
+    night by a heavy gale, with snow and sleet beating furiously on
+    the deck. In the morning the land was covered with snow, the
+    water froze as it was pumped on deck, and the bitter wind
+    howled and whistled through the rigging. In the afternoon the
+    wind even increased in violence, the snowstorms became more
+    frequent, and the sky was dark and overcast.</p>
+
+    <p>We had service at eleven and again at four. The sun set cold
+    and stormy, promising a wild night. At times the shore was
+    quite hidden by the snowstorms, though only a few cables'
+    lengths off.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, February 19th</i>.&mdash;The wind and weather
+    became worse than ever, and, as time was precious, Tom decided
+    to retrace our steps for a short distance and go through the
+    Bungo Channel, between the islands of Sikok and Kiusiu, instead
+    of going out to sea through the Simono-seki Straits,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 367<a name="Page_367"
+       id="Page_367"></a></span>as, in the latter case, the gale
+       would be right in our teeth, and we should make but little
+       progress. Now we shall be under the shelter of Kiusiu and
+       the Linschoten and Luchu islands for at least two days, and
+       so make a fair wind of it. Steering due south, too, we may
+       hope to be soon out of this horrid weather. The only
+       drawback to this plan is that we shall miss seeing Nagasaki,
+       which I much regret. There are no great sights there, but
+       the scenery is pretty, and the place is interesting owing to
+       the fact that it was the first and for many years the only,
+       port open to foreigners, and also the scene of the cruel
+       murders of Christians and the site of the beautiful island
+       of Pappenberg. Shanghai I do not think I regret so much,
+       though Tom would have been interested to talk with the
+       merchants about their commerce, and to see their houses,
+       many of which are, I am told, perfect palaces. It would be
+       very cold there, too, at this time of year; and I do so long
+       to lose my cough and feel warm once more.</p>
+
+    <p>At 8.30 p.m. we weighed and proceeded under steam. The views
+    of the mountains, between the snowstorms, were lovely, with the
+    fresh-fallen snow shining in an occasional gleam of sunshine.
+    We soon passed the Isaki light, with wind and tide in our
+    favour, and at sunset found ourselves in the open waters of the
+    North Pacific.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, February 20th</i>.&mdash;A lovely day; the
+    thermometer already twenty degrees higher than it was
+    yesterday. The wind had dropped, and at 10 a.m. it had become
+    so calm that fires were lighted.</p>
+
+    <p>It was delightful to see everybody and everything on
+    board&mdash;people, children, animals, and birds, all and each
+    sunning themselves, and trying to get thawed after the freezing
+    they have had. We have unfortunately lost one of the Hawaiian
+    geese, which I much regret, as it is irreplaceable. None have,
+    I believe, ever been exported before. The pig from Harpe Island
+    is very well. We have not seen him all the cold weather, as he
+    has been buried in <span class="pagenum">Page
+    368<a name="Page_368"
+       id="Page_368"></a></span>straw in a box, but they say that
+       the cold has stopped his growth.</p>
+
+    <p>We were continually passing islands throughout the day,
+    sometimes six or seven being in sight at one time, some with
+    active and more with extinct volcanoes. We saw smoke issuing
+    from three of the cones, but by night we were too far off to
+    notice the flames.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, February 21st</i>.&mdash;The calm still
+    continues. The sun is bright, the sky blue, and the atmosphere
+    warm. During the night we passed Suwa Sima, Akuisi Sima, and
+    Yoko Sima.</p>
+
+    <p>In the afternoon a light breeze sprang up; we stopped
+    steaming, and before nightfall were bowling along smoothly at
+    the rate of ten knots.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, February 22nd</i>.&mdash;The same delightful
+    breeze continued throughout the night and most of the day. By
+    noon we had done 220 miles. Everybody had on summer clothes,
+    and we all felt ourselves gradually expanding after being
+    shrivelled up by the cold of the last month.</p>
+
+    <p>I should never recommend anybody to come to Japan in the
+    winter. You do not see it at its best, I am sure, and the
+    scanty protection afforded by houses and carriages makes
+    travelling a penance rather than a pleasure. Travellers,
+    however, who wish to see Japan should do so at once; for the
+    country is changing every day, and in three years more will be
+    so Europeanised that little will be left worth seeing; or a
+    violent anti-foreign revulsion of feeling may have taken place,
+    and then the ports will be closed more strictly than they were
+    even before the execution of the first treaty. Nothing that we
+    can give them do they really want; their exports are not large;
+    and they have learned nearly all they care to know from the
+    foreigner. We have seen many of the European engineers of
+    Japanese vessels, and they all agree in declaring that the
+    natives learn to imitate anything they see done with wonderful
+    quickness. These men also averred that in a few years there
+    will not <span class="pagenum">Page 369<a name="Page_369"
+       id="Page_369"></a></span>be a single foreigner employed in
+       Japan, as the Japanese will be quite in a position to
+       dispense with such aid; and although the Government pay
+       foreigners in a high position exceedingly well, their
+       service offers no career to a young man. His engagement is
+       for so many years, and when his subordinates have learned to
+       do the work he may go where he likes. I am bound to add that
+       I have heard the contrary opinion equally strongly
+       expressed; but the facts I have mentioned make me lean
+       rather to the former than to the latter side of the
+       story.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, February 23rd</i>.&mdash;Another pleasant day.
+    The wind dropped, fires were lighted, and at 4.30 p.m. we
+    proceeded under steam. Soon after seven, whilst we were at
+    dinner, the table gave a sudden lurch, which was followed by
+    the sound of rain on the deck above. We found that a breeze had
+    sprung up all at once, and had carried away some of our
+    head-sails before they could possibly be taken in. Even under
+    close-reefed canvas we had a most uneasy night, racing along at
+    from ten to twelve knots an hour.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, February 24th</i>.&mdash;We were rushing along,
+    literally <i>through</i> the water all day, for there was
+    plenty of it on deck&mdash;not really any great quantity, but
+    sufficient to make everything wet and uncomfortable.</p>
+
+    <p>At 1.35 we made the island of Ockseu, a capital land-fall,
+    and very satisfactory in every way; for the sky was too much
+    overcast to get an observation, and the currents hereabouts are
+    strong and variable. During the night the wind fell light, but
+    we maintained a speed of from nine to ten knots.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, February 25th</i>.&mdash;A much finer day. At 8
+    a.m. we had run 299 knots since the same time yesterday. We met
+    a large steamer and passed a brigantine; also several Chinese
+    junks. About twelve o'clock we saw a flag being waved
+    frantically from a junk not far from us. At first we thought
+    something was wrong with them; but <span class="pagenum">Page
+    370<a name="Page_370"
+       id="Page_370"></a></span>soon a small boat put off with
+       three men, and we found, on its arrival alongside, that it
+       contained a pilot anxious for a job. He was very
+       disappointed that we would not let him come on board; but
+       Tom always likes doing the pilotage himself. The boat was a
+       rough wash-tub kind of affair, not much better than those
+       used by the inhabitants of Tierra del Fuego and
+       Patagonia.</p>
+
+    <p>About two o'clock we entered the tropics; but the weather is
+    now colder again, and not nearly so pleasant as it was two days
+    ago. I suppose it is owing to the north-east monsoon.</p>
+
+    <p>In the course of the afternoon we received several more
+    offers of pilotage, all of which were declined; and at 7.45 we
+    got up steam and lay to all night, ready to go into Hongkong
+    harbour at daylight.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, February 26th</i>.&mdash;At 4 a.m. we found
+    ourselves close under the light on the eastern end of the
+    island of Hongkong. We were surrounded by islands, and the
+    morning was dark and thick; so we waited till 5.30, and then
+    steamed on through the Kowloon passage up to the city of
+    Victoria, as it is really named, though it is generally called
+    Hongkong. The channel is long, and in some places so narrow
+    that it is like going through a mountain pass, with barren
+    hills and rocks on either hand; but the combined effect of the
+    blue waters, and red, brown, and yellow hills, is very
+    fine.</p>
+
+    <p>Off the town of Victoria the crowd of shipping is immense,
+    and it became a difficult task to thread our way between the
+    fleets of sampans and junks. The latter are the most
+    extraordinary-looking craft I ever saw, with high, overhanging
+    sterns and roll, or rather draw, up sails, sometimes actually
+    made of silk, and puffed like a lady's net ball-dress. Then
+    their decks are so crowded with lumber, live and dead, that you
+    wonder how the boats can be navigated at all. But still they
+    are much more picturesque than the Japanese junks, and better
+    sea boats. The sampans <span class="pagenum">Page
+    371<a name="Page_371"
+       id="Page_371"></a></span>are long boats, pointed at both
+       ends, and provided with a small awning. They have deep
+       keels; and underneath the floor there is one place for a
+       cooking fire, another for an altar, and a third where the
+       children are stowed to be out of the way. In these sampans
+       whole families, sometimes five generations, live and move
+       and have their being. I never shall forget my astonishment
+       when, going ashore very early one morning in one of these
+       strange craft, the proprietor lifted up what I had thought
+       was the bottom of the boat, and disclosed three or four
+       children, packed away as tight as herrings, while under the
+       seats were half-a-dozen people of larger growth. The young
+       <span class="pagenum">Page 372<a name="Page_372"
+       id="Page_372"></a></span>mother of the small family
+       generally rows with the smallest baby strapped on to her
+       back, and the next-sized one in her arms, whom she is also
+       teaching to row. The children begin to row by themselves
+       when they are about two years old. The boys have a gourd,
+       intended for a life-preserver, tied round their necks as
+       soon as they are born. The girls are left to their fate, a
+       Chinaman thinking it rather an advantage to lose a daughter
+       or two occasionally.</p>
+
+    <p>Many of these sampan people have never set foot on shore in
+    their lives, and this water-life of China is one of the most
+    extraordinary features of the country. It is what strikes all
+    travellers, and so has tempted me to a digression.</p>
+
+    <p>A lieutenant from the flag-ship came on board and piloted us
+    into a snug berth, among the men-of-war, and close to the
+    shore, where we were immediately surrounded by sampans, and
+    pestered by pertinacious Chinese clambering on board. The
+    donkey-engine, with well-rigged hose, soon, however, cleared
+    the decks, bulwarks, and gangways, and we were not bothered any
+    more.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_386"
+             id="Illus_386"></a> <img src="images/t_386.jpg"
+             width="228"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: How we were boarded by Chinese and dispersed them"
+             title="Illustration: How we were boarded by Chinese and dispersed them" />
+        <br />
+        <b>How we were boarded by Chinese and dispersed
+        them</b><br />
+        <a href="images/386.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>After breakfast we landed on the Praya, a fine quay,
+    extending the whole length of the town. On it are situated many
+    of the large stores, offices, and markets of the city. The
+    streets are wide and handsome, and the buildings in European
+    style, with deep verandahs and arcades, all built of stone. The
+    town is built on the side of a hill, with ferny, moss-covered
+    banks, overhung by tropical trees, close to some of the
+    principal offices. At the back are the mountains, the peak
+    overhead, with the signal station on the top, always busily at
+    work, making and answering signals with flags as ships and
+    junks enter or leave the harbour. Soldiers and sailors abound
+    in the streets; and if it were not for the sedan-chairs and
+    palanquins, in which everybody is carried about by Chinese
+    coolies with enormous hats, one might easily fancy oneself at
+    dear old Gib., so much do these dependencies of the Crown in
+    foreign <span class="pagenum">Page 373<a name="Page_373"
+       id="Page_373"></a></span>countries resemble one another,
+       even in such opposite quarters of the globe.</p>
+
+    <p>We were very anxious to leave the yacht here and to go up to
+    Canton; but we find there is no possible hotel at the latter
+    place. This is rather unfortunate, as, after our long residence
+    on board, and all the knocking about at sea, the yacht requires
+    repairing and refitting. She looks very well painted white, and
+    the change is a great comfort in hot weather; but white paint
+    does not wear well, and in order to maintain her good looks she
+    ought to receive a fresh coat at every port. We can only go up
+    the Pearl River at the very top of the tide, for in several
+    places there are not fourteen feet of water over the shoals. It
+    will, therefore, take us two or three days to accomplish what
+    the steamers do in six hours, and a great waste of time will be
+    involved.</p>
+
+    <p>To-day, for the first time, we have heard 'pidgin English'
+    seriously spoken. It is very trying to one's composure to hear
+    grave merchants, in their counting-houses, giving important
+    orders to clerks and compradors in what sounds, until one gets
+    accustomed to it, like the silliest of baby-talk. The term
+    really means 'business English;' and certain it is that most
+    Chinamen you meet understand it perfectly, though you might
+    just as well talk Greek as ordinary English to them. 'Take
+    piecey missisy one piecey bag topside,' seems quite as
+    difficult to understand as 'Take the lady's bag upstairs' would
+    be; but it is easier to a Chinaman's intellect.</p>
+
+    <p>From the Praya we went up the hill to write our names in the
+    Governor's book. It was a beautiful road all the way, running
+    between lovely gardens and beneath shady trees. Government
+    House is a fine building, situated on a high point of land,
+    commanding extensive views in every direction. After a pleasant
+    chat we descended the hill again, and proceeded to the Hongkong
+    hotel for tiffin. It does not seem a very desirable abode,
+    being large, dirty, <span class="pagenum">Page
+    374<a name="Page_374"
+       id="Page_374"></a></span>and ill-kept. At one o'clock a bell
+       rang, and the visitors all rushed in and took their places
+       at various little tables, and were served with a 'scrambly'
+       sort of meal by Chinese boys.</p>
+
+    <p>After this, a carriage was sent for us, and we drove to the
+    race-course. This is the fourth and last day of the races, and
+    there is to be a ball to-night to wind up with, to which
+    everybody seems to be going. The drive was a very pleasant one,
+    the road presenting a most animated appearance, with crowds of
+    soldiers, sailors, Chinamen, Parsees, Jews, all hurrying along
+    by the side of the numerous sedan-chairs and carriages. We were
+    puzzled to imagine where, on this rocky, hilly island, there
+    could possibly be found a piece of ground flat enough for a
+    race-course. But the mystery was solved when we reached a
+    lovely little valley, about two miles from the town, where we
+    found a very fair course, about the size of that at Chester,
+    but not so dangerous. The grand stand is a picturesque object,
+    with its thatched roof, verandahs, and sun-blinds. The
+    interior, too, looks comfortably arranged, and certainly
+    contains the most luxurious basket-chairs one could possibly
+    desire. There are a lawn and a paddock attached, and very good
+    temporary stables, over many of which are private stands and
+    tiffin-rooms.</p>
+
+    <p>Hongkong races are a great event, and people come down from
+    Canton, Shanghai, Macao, and all sorts of places for them.
+    Everybody knows everybody, and it seems to be altogether a most
+    pleasant social meeting. Many ladies were present. Some of the
+    races were capital, the little Chinese ponies scuttling along
+    at a great pace under their big riders, whose feet seemed
+    almost to touch the ground. There was also a race for
+    Australian horses. But the most amusing event of all was the
+    last scramble for Chinese ponies ridden by Chinese boys, in
+    which horses and riders seemed to be exactly suited to one
+    another. <span class="pagenum">Page 375<a name="Page_375"
+       id="Page_375"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>The sun went down, and it grew cold and dark before all was
+    over. The gentlemen walked back to the town, and I went down to
+    the landing-place in solitary state, in a carriage driven by an
+    Indian coachman, attended by a Chinese footman. I was
+    immediately surrounded by a vociferating crowd, each individual
+    member of which was anxious to extol the merits of his own
+    sampan. The carriage having driven off, I was quite alone, and
+    had some difficulty in dispersing them, and being allowed to
+    enter the sampan I had selected. However, I did succeed at
+    last, and making my boatmen understand that they were to take
+    me to 'the white ship,' as the yacht is generally called,
+    returned on board to rest.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 376<a name="Page_376"
+       id="Page_376"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XXII"
+       id="CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">TO CANTON UP THE PEARL RIVER.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>Sails of silk and ropes of
+            sandal</i><br /></span> <span><i>Such as gleam in
+            ancient lore</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>And the singing
+            of the sailors</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>And the
+            answer from the shore</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, February 27th</i>.&mdash;Until half-past ten we
+    were occupied in the pleasant task of reading news from
+    home&mdash;all good this time, I am happy to say. At 10.30 we
+    landed and went up the hill to breakfast with Sir Arthur and
+    Miss Kennedy, and heard a good deal about the colony. It is
+    wonderful to think that thirty years ago it scarcely existed,
+    and now it is a large and flourishing place, with splendid
+    houses, institutions, roads, and gardens. We were also most
+    agreeably surprised by the beauty of the scenery. It is really
+    lovely, and, though the hills around are barren, wherever
+    cultivation has been attempted, vegetation appears to flourish
+    luxuriantly. The climate cannot be very bad, judging by the
+    healthy look of the residents and troops. Typhoons seem to be
+    the greatest drawback. They come without any warning, and it is
+    impossible to guard against them and their disastrous effects.
+    Thousands of lives, and millions of pounds' worth of property,
+    are destroyed in a few hours. We have been shown some of the
+    effects of a very severe typhoon that occurred in 1874. It
+    seems almost incredible that the mere force of the wind can
+    snap iron posts in two, break granite columns, and blow off
+    heavy roofs.</p>
+
+    <p>After breakfast the ceremony of presenting the departing
+    Governor with a State umbrella took place. It was a
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 377<a name="Page_377"
+       id="Page_377"></a></span>token of respect from ten thousand
+       Chinese inhabitants of Hongkong, and is the greatest
+       compliment that can be paid to any official. It arrived in a
+       large camphor-wood box, and the address, beautifully
+       embroidered in gold thread and silk, was enclosed in a
+       magnificent sandal-wood box about four feet long, covered
+       with the richest carving. Precisely at twelve some forty
+       vermilion-coloured visiting cards were handed in, with the
+       name of each member of the deputation written in Chinese and
+       English characters. The visitors were all received in a
+       large drawing-room, whilst we ladies observed the
+       proceedings through the doors leading from a smaller room.
+       It is not considered etiquette by the Chinese for ladies to
+       appear at these public ceremonies.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_392"
+             id="Illus_392"></a> <img src="images/t_392.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="233"
+             alt="Illustration: Chinese Visiting Cards"
+             title="Illustration: Chinese Visiting Cards" /><br />
+        <b>Chinese Visiting Cards</b><br />
+        <a href="images/392.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>After it was all over, a stroll through the town, and a look
+    at the shops, filled up the rest of the time in the morning,
+    until we went on board to fetch the children for an expedition
+    up the Peak to the signal station. As usual many visitors came
+    on board the yacht, and it was later than we had intended
+    before we could make a start. <span class="pagenum">Page
+    378<a name="Page_378"
+       id="Page_378"></a></span>I had to be carried up the steep
+       ascent in a chair, but the children and dogs thoroughly
+       enjoyed themselves scampering about. The little ones picked
+       heaps of flowers and ferns. The dogs had not been allowed to
+       land before, as everybody told me they would be sure to be
+       stolen directly. We returned on board before sunset, and had
+       time for a little rest before some friends arrived to
+       dinner. We have shipped two Chinese boys here to work in the
+       pantry and kitchen. They are excellent servants as a rule,
+       but how they will get on with the others, and how they will
+       like the sea-life, remains to be proved.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, February 28th</i>.&mdash;I was up and off at
+    half-past six to the market, and returned to a late breakfast
+    on board; after which a large party of China merchants came as
+    a deputation to invite Tom to fix a day to dine with them. I
+    think they proposed to pay him what is for them an unusual
+    compliment, partly because they were pleased with some remarks
+    he made yesterday at Government House, and partly because they
+    think so much of his enterprise in making a voyage round the
+    world in a yacht with his wife and family. They examined
+    everything on board, and seemed to be specially interested in
+    Tom's Board of Trade certificate, which one of their number
+    translated in full for the benefit of the rest.</p>
+
+    <p>The Chinese part of the town stands quite away from the
+    foreign settlement. It is dirty and crowded in spite of its
+    wide streets, and the large, gaily coloured houses have the
+    names and advertisements of their proprietors painted all
+    across them. The theatre is in the middle of the city, and was
+    densely crowded. A box had been reserved for us, for the
+    ordinary seats are like a carpenter's bench. On the floor of
+    the house men and women sat together, but in the galleries the
+    men sat apart, and there were separate boxes for the women. The
+    acting was rough, and accompanied by the most discordant music.
+    The scenery seemed of an excessively rudimentary description,
+    as you may imagine <span class="pagenum">Page
+    379<a name="Page_379"
+       id="Page_379"></a></span>when I tell you that a steep hill
+       up which the hero and heroine climbed with great difficulty
+       was composed of five kitchen chairs arranged in a pyramid on
+       the top of three kitchen tables, held in position by men in
+       their ordinary dress. The fugitives were supposed to be a
+       Tartar general and his wife, escaping from their enemies
+       after a great battle. The fighting was renewed at intervals
+       with great noise and spirit. Some of the costumes were very
+       fine, and cost from 30<i>l</i>. to 40<i>l</i>. apiece.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_394"
+             id="Illus_394"></a> <img src="images/t_394.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="173"
+             alt="Illustration: On the Pearl River"
+             title="Illustration: On the Pearl River" /><br />
+        <b>On the Pearl River</b><br />
+        <a href="images/394.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>From the theatre we drove to the Chinese hospital, and
+    thence to the Chinese recreation ground, where we saw sundry
+    itinerant quacks and vendors of all sorts of rubbish. As we
+    were walking along, having left our chairs for a few minutes to
+    look at the Chinese shops, a man picked my pocket of a
+    one-dollar note. Mr. Freer and the Doctor saw, pursued, and
+    caught him. He vehemently protested his innocence, but to no
+    avail. They proceeded to strip him, found the note, gave him a
+    good shaking, and told him to go. <span class="pagenum">Page
+    380<a name="Page_380"
+       id="Page_380"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, March 1st</i>.&mdash;A most lovely morning
+    ushered in the new month, which having come in like the most
+    peaceable of lambs, will, we hope, not end like a roaring lion
+    just as we expect to be in the middle of the Bay of Bengal. We
+    left the yacht at 7.30, and went on board the 'Kin-Shan,' which
+    is a regular American river steamer with beam engines and many
+    deck-houses, which are painted white. The lower deck is crowded
+    with the most inferior class of Chinese, some eight hundred of
+    them being on board. It gave us rather a turn to see them all
+    padlocked in under the hatchways and iron gratings. At each
+    opening is posted an armed sentinel, ready to fire among the
+    crowd in case of any disturbance. In the saloon, also, is a
+    stand of pistols, and rifles with fixed bayonets, ready for the
+    European passengers to defend themselves with, in case of
+    emergency. These are very necessary precautions, on account of
+    the numerous pirates who occasionally ship in disguise among
+    the crowd, murder the passengers and crew, and take possession
+    of the steamer. Not quite two years ago a vessel belonging to
+    this same company was assailed in that way. Every one on board
+    was murdered, and the ship taken to Macao
+    <a name="FNanchor_19_19"
+       id="FNanchor_19_19">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_19_19"
+       class="fnanchor">[19]</a> But this voyage was more
+       prosperous, the captain was most kind and polite, and the
+       boat clean and comfortable. An excellent breakfast and an
+       elaborate tiffin were served at noon, all for the sum of
+       four dollars a head, including wine, beer, and spirits <i>ad
+       libitum</i>.</p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_19_19"
+           id="Footnote_19_19"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a>
+           I have since been told that only the captain and one or
+           two passengers were killed, and the vessel run ashore
+           near, not at Macao.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>On first leaving Hankow the course lies between islands and
+    through fine mountain passes. Later on the country becomes flat
+    and uninteresting till the Bogue Forts are reached. Here are to
+    be seen the remains of the old forts knocked down by the French
+    and English guns.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_396"
+             id="Illus_396"></a> <img src="images/t_396.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="160"
+             alt="Illustration: Bogue Forts"
+             title="Illustration: Bogue Forts" /><br />
+        <b>Bogue Forts</b><br />
+        <a href="images/396.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>About one o'clock we reached Whampoa, the leading port of
+    Canton. The Pearl River is too shallow for large
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 381<a name="Page_381"
+       id="Page_381"></a></span>steamers to go up any higher; so we
+       stopped here only a few minutes to disembark some of the
+       Chinese passengers, and from this point the interesting part
+       of the voyage began. The river, as well as all the little
+       supplementary creeks, was alive with junks and
+       sampans&mdash;masts and sails stuck up in every direction,
+       gliding about among the flat paddy-fields. Such masts and
+       sails as they are! The mandarins' boats, especially, are so
+       beautifully carved, painted, and decorated, that they look
+       more as if they were floating about for ornament than for
+       use. Just about two o'clock our large steamer was brought up
+       close alongside the wooden pier as easily as a skiff, but it
+       must require some skill to navigate this crowded river
+       without accident. On the shore was an excited, vociferating
+       crowd, but no one came to meet us; and we had begun to
+       wonder what was to become of us&mdash;what we should do, and
+       whither we should go in a strange city, where we did not
+       know a soul&mdash;when we were relieved from our
+       embarrassment by the appearance of the Vice-Consul, who came
+       on board to meet a friend. He told us that, owing to an
+       expected ball, all the houses <span class="pagenum">Page
+       382<a name="Page_382"
+       id="Page_382"></a></span>were unusually full, and that not
+       one of the people who had been written to could take us in.
+       This was rather bad news, but we felt sure that something
+       would turn up.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_397"
+             id="Illus_397"></a> <img src="images/t_397.jpg"
+             width="210"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Chinese Pagoda and Boats"
+             title="Illustration: Chinese Pagoda and Boats" /><br />
+        <b>Chinese Pagoda and Boats</b><br />
+        <a href="images/397.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We landed, and, after proceeding a short distance along the
+    dirty street, came to a bridge with iron gates, which were
+    thrown open by the sentry. After crossing a dirty stream we
+    found ourselves in the foreign settlement&mdash;Shameen it is
+    called&mdash;walking on nice turf, under the shade of fine
+    trees. The houses of the merchants which line this promenade
+    are all fine, handsome stone buildings, with deep verandahs. At
+    the back there are compounds with kitchen gardens, and under
+    the trees dairy cows are grazing. Every household appears to
+    supply itself with garden and farm produce, and the whole scene
+    has a most English, home-like appearance. We went first to the
+    Vice-Consul, and then to the Jardine Hong. All the business
+    houses retain the names of the firms to which they originally
+    belonged, even when they have passed into entirely different
+    hands. After a little chat we went on to the Deacon Hong, where
+    we found they had just done tiffin, and where we met some old
+    friends. <span class="pagenum">Page 383<a name="Page_383"
+       id="Page_383"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>By the kindness of various people, to whom we were
+    introduced, we all found ourselves gradually installed in
+    luxurious quarters. As for us, we had a large room comfortably
+    furnished in English fashion, with a bath-room attached. All
+    the houses are very much alike, and are fitted up in an equally
+    comfortable style.</p>
+
+    <p>About three o'clock we started in five chairs, with
+    Man-look-Chin for our guide. Tom vigorously protested against
+    not being allowed to use his own legs, but everybody assured
+    him that it was impossible in the crowded streets of the city,
+    so he had to submit to being carried. No Chinaman, except those
+    employed by foreigners, is allowed to cross any of the bridges
+    over the stream, which completely surrounds the foreign
+    settlement, and makes the suburb of Shameen a perfect island.
+    There are iron gates on each bridge, guarded by sentries. The
+    contrast in the state of things presented by the two sides of
+    the bridge is most marvellous. From the quiet country park,
+    full of large villas and pretty gardens, you emerge into a
+    filthy city, full of a seething, dirty population, and where
+    smells and sights of the most disgusting description meet you
+    at every turn. People who have seen many Chinese cities say
+    that Canton is the cleanest of them all. What the dirtiest must
+    be like is therefore beyond my imagination. The suburbs of the
+    city, where all sorts of cheap eating-shops abound&mdash;where
+    the butchers and fishmongers expose the most untempting-looking
+    morsels for sale, and where there are hampers of all sorts of
+    nasty-looking compounds, done up ready for the buyer of the
+    smallest portion to take home&mdash;are especially revolting.
+    The Chinese, however poor, like several courses to their meals,
+    which are served in little bowls on a small table to each
+    person, and eaten with chop-sticks, as in Japan. It is to
+    gratify this taste that what we should think a very minute
+    fish, or a tiny chicken, is cut up into half-a-dozen pieces and
+    sold to several purchasers.<span class="pagenum">Page
+    384<a name="Page_384"
+       id="Page_384"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>The Chinese are very fond of fish, and are most ingenious in
+    propagating, rearing, and keeping them. The dried-fish and
+    seaweed shops are not at all picturesque or sweet-smelling,
+    especially as all the refuse is thrown into the streets in
+    front. Men go about the streets carrying pails of manure,
+    suspended on bamboo poles across their shoulders, and clear
+    away the rubbish as they go. I was very glad when we got
+    through all this to the better part of the town, and found
+    ourselves in a large shop, where it was cool, and dark, and
+    quiet.</p>
+
+    <p>The streets of the city are so narrow, that two chairs can
+    scarcely pass one another, except at certain points. The roofs
+    of the houses nearly meet across the roadway, and, in addition,
+    the inhabitants frequently spread mats overhead, rendering the
+    light below dim and mysterious. Every shop has a large
+    vermilion-coloured board, with the name of its occupant written
+    in Chinese characters, together with a list of the articles
+    which he sells, hung out in front of it, so that the view down
+    the narrow streets is very bright and peculiar. These highways
+    and byways are not unlike the bazaars at Constantinople and
+    Cairo, and different wares are also sold in different
+    localities after the Eastern fashion. This is, in some
+    respects, a great advantage, as, if you are in search of any
+    particular article, you have almost an unlimited choice of
+    whatever the town has to offer. But, on the other hand, if you
+    want a variety of articles, it is an inconvenient arrangement,
+    as you have to go all over the place to find them, and probably
+    have to visit the most opposite quarters. We saw thousands of
+    china vases, and bowls, and tea and dinner services, some very
+    handsome, but many extremely poor. There were a few specially
+    made for the French Exhibition next year, which were
+    exceedingly handsome. We visited an ivory shop, and saw some
+    splendid specimens of carving. One man had been for fifteen
+    months employed in carving on one side of an enormous
+    elephant's tusk the representation of a battle
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 385<a name="Page_385"
+       id="Page_385"></a></span>scene, and on the other that of a
+       thanksgiving procession. It will take him at least another
+       year to finish the job. It is for the Paris Exhibition. It
+       will be quite interesting to look for our old Japanese and
+       Chinese friends and their products on that occasion.</p>
+
+    <p>From ivory carving, we went to a black-wood furniture shop,
+    where we saw some very handsome things, by no means dear
+    considering the amount of time and labour bestowed upon them.
+    We finished up with the Temple of the Five Hundred Genii, whose
+    five hundred carved wooden statues, thickly gilt, all very
+    ugly, and all in different attitudes, stand round the statue of
+    a European in sailor's costume, said to be meant for Marco
+    Polo, but, whoever it may be, evidently considered an object at
+    least of veneration, if not of worship.</p>
+
+    <p>We now returned through the dirty city to Shameen, and the
+    relief, after crossing the bridge into an open space where one
+    could breathe freely and see the blue sky, was
+    indescribable.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, March 2nd</i>.&mdash;Before we had finished
+    breakfast the other gentlemen strolled in from their various
+    quarters, and the drivers and guides arrived from the
+    Vice-Consul's. A long morning's work had been mapped out for
+    us&mdash;thirteen sights before luncheon, then a visit to the
+    French Consulate, followed by eight more objects of interest to
+    be seen before we finally crossed the Pearl River to visit the
+    Honan Temple. Quitting the pretty cool suburb by another
+    bridge, we passed through streets quite as dirty as those of
+    yesterday, until the heart of the city had been reached. We
+    went first to the wedding-chair shop, where they keep
+    sedan-chairs, of four qualities, for hire whenever a wedding
+    occurs. Even the commonest are made gorgeous by silver gilding
+    and lacquer, while the best are really marvels of decorative
+    art, completely covered with the blue lustrous feathers of a
+    kind of kingfisher. In shape they are like a square pagoda, and
+    round each tier are groups of figures.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 386<a name="Page_386"
+       id="Page_386"></a></span>The dresses are also made of
+       expensive feathers, but then they last for generations.
+       There are no windows to these strange conveyances, in which
+       the bride is carried to her future home, closely shut up,
+       with joss-sticks burning in front of her. Recently there
+       have been two sad accidents. In one case the journey was
+       long, there was no outlet for the smoke of the joss-sticks,
+       and when they arrived and opened the chair, the bride was
+       found dead from suffocation. The other accident occurred
+       through the chair catching fire while it was passing through
+       some narrow street under an archway. The bearers became
+       frightened, put down their burden, and ran away, leaving the
+       poor bride locked up inside to be burnt to death.</p>
+
+    <p>From the chair shop we went to the embroiderers, to see them
+    at work. Their productions are exquisite, and it is a pity that
+    better specimens are not seen in England. The process of
+    lacquer-making, too, is very interesting. We had, however, to
+    go from house to house to witness it, as only one portion of
+    the process is carried on at each&mdash;from the gradual
+    coating of the roughest wood with three coatings of varnish,
+    until it is finally ornamented with delicate designs, and
+    polished ready for sale. In appearance, price, and length of
+    wear there is a vast difference.</p>
+
+    <p>The next thing to see was the weaving of silk, which is done
+    in the most primitive manner. One man throws the shuttle, while
+    another forms the pattern by jumping on the top of the loom and
+    raising a certain number of threads, in order to allow the
+    shuttle to pass beneath them.</p>
+
+    <p>Then came a visit to the Temple of Longevity, a large
+    Buddhist temple, with a monastic establishment of about ninety
+    priests attached to it. It contains three shrines with large
+    figures, but nothing specially interesting. There is a large
+    pond in the midst of the garden, covered with duckweed, and
+    full of beautiful gold and silver fish of many kinds. The
+    Chinese certainly excel in producing gold and silver and red
+    fish; they are the pets of every <span class="pagenum">Page
+    387<a name="Page_387"
+       id="Page_387"></a></span>household, and are of all colours,
+       some being striped and spotted, and boasting any number of
+       tails from one to five.</p>
+
+    <p>Outside the temple stands the Jadestone Market, where
+    incredible quantities of this valuable stone change hands
+    before ten o'clock every morning, both in its rough and its
+    polished state. The stalls are the simplest wooden stands, and
+    the appearance of the vendors is poor in the extreme. The
+    contents of the stalls, however, are worth from 500<i>l</i>. to
+    l,000<i>l</i>. (not dollars), and there are hundreds of these
+    stalls, besides an entire jadestone street which we afterwards
+    visited. We saw several of the shops, and asked the prices, as
+    we wished to take home a small specimen; but they had no good
+    carved cups, which were what we wanted, and for what they had
+    they asked an enormous price. Jadestone is a material very
+    difficult to work, and in many cases the result attained is not
+    worth the labour expended upon it. It is more a <i>tour de
+    force</i> than a work of art. For a good stone, green as grass
+    (as it ought to be), they ask from 2,500 to 3,000 dollars; for
+    a necklace of beads, 5,000 dollars; a set of mandarin's
+    buttons, one large and one small, 50 to 150 dollars.</p>
+
+    <p>After looking in at the goldbeaters at work, we next made
+    our way to the temple of the Five Genii who are supposed to
+    have founded the city of Canton. Being a Tartar temple, all the
+    gods have a totally different cast of features, and are
+    represented as Tartars with long beards. It is much frequented
+    by women of all classes, and up and down the numerous flights
+    of steps leading from one shrine to another, poor little women
+    tottered and tumbled on their crippled feet, holding on to one
+    another, or leaning on a stick. This temple is interesting as
+    having been the head-quarters of the allied forces during their
+    occupation of Canton from 1858 to 1861. The great bell in front
+    of its principal shrine has been broken by a shot.</p>
+
+    <p>We then went to see the Flowery Pagoda, built A.D. 512, but
+    now deprived of many of its decorations. The Brilliant
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 388<a name="Page_388"
+       id="Page_388"></a></span>Pagoda too, so called from having
+       once been covered with snow-white porcelain, is now only a
+       tall brick-pointed tower nine stories high.</p>
+
+    <p>By this time we all felt hungry, and began to wend our way
+    towards the <i>yamun</i>. On the outskirts may be seen
+    prisoners in chains, or wearing the <i>cangue</i>, imprisoned
+    in a cage, or else suffering one of the numerous tortures
+    inflicted in this country. I did not go to see any of these
+    horrors, neither did I visit the execution ground; but some of
+    the party did, and described it as a most horrible sight.
+    Skulls were lying about in all directions, one of which had
+    been quite recently severed from its trunk, the ground being
+    still moist and red.</p>
+
+    <p>Whilst luncheon was being prepared we were taken over many
+    of the rooms and through several of the enclosures within the
+    fortified gate. The meal was excellently served by Chinese
+    servants in a charmingly picturesque Tartar room, and after it
+    we wandered about the park, looked at the deer, and admired the
+    Nagasaki bantams. Then it was time to start on a fresh
+    sight-seeing expedition, armed with fresh directions. We set
+    out first to the Temple of the Sleeping Buddha, where there is
+    a large, fat, reclining figure; then to the Temple of
+    Horrors&mdash;most rightly named, for in a suite of rooms built
+    round three sides of a large yard are represented all the
+    tortures of the Buddhist faith, such as boiling in oil, sawing
+    in pieces, and other horrible devices. The yard itself is
+    crowded with fortune-tellers, charm-sellers, deputy
+    prayer-sayers, beggars, and all sorts of natural horrors,
+    exhibiting various deformities. Altogether it is a most
+    unpleasant place, but still it is one of the characteristic
+    sights of Canton.</p>
+
+    <p>We saw the hotel to-day for the first time. It certainly
+    looks very hopeless. We were anxious to get in there if
+    possible, as we were such a large party, but everybody assured
+    us it was quite out of the question. One gentleman told me he
+    never could fancy using his portmanteau
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 389<a name="Page_389"
+       id="Page_389"></a></span>again after even laying it down on
+       the floor for a few minutes. The absence of a decent hotel
+       renders Canton an inconvenient place to visit. The European
+       inhabitants are so very kind, however, that you are sure to
+       find somebody who knows somebody else who will hospitably
+       take you in.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_404"
+             id="Illus_404"></a> <img src="images/t_404.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="173"
+             alt="Illustration: The French Consulate, Canton"
+             title="Illustration: The French Consulate, Canton" /><br />
+        <b>The French Consulate, Canton</b><br />
+        <a href="images/404.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>From the Temple of the Sleeping Buddha we went up the height
+    to breathe a little fresh air, and to see the five-storied
+    pagoda at the spot where the allied forces had encamped, the
+    Chinese groves in the White Cloud Mountains beyond, and to gain
+    a general view of the densely crowded city beneath. It is all
+    too flat, however, to be picturesque. The three <i>yamuns</i>
+    at our feet, with their quaint towers, grand old trees, flags,
+    and the broad Pearl River on the other side of the city, are
+    the only elements of positive beauty in the landscape.</p>
+
+    <p>We soon descended the heights again, and, passing the
+    Cantonese Viceroy's <i>yamuns</i> paid our promised visit to
+    the <span class="pagenum">Page 390<a name="Page_390"
+       id="Page_390"></a></span>French Consul. His residence is, if
+       possible, more quaint and beautiful than that of the English
+       representative. The trees are finer, especially one grand
+       avenue leading from the outer gates to the private
+       apartments. We were most kindly received, and shown a
+       wonderful collection of embroideries and china. It was a
+       delightful visit, but we could not remain so long as we
+       wished, for we had to see the water clock. The tower in
+       which it stands is approached by a flight of steps, and was
+       built between the years A.D. 624 and 907; but it has been
+       repaired, destroyed, and repaired again, several times,
+       having suffered in the bombardment of the town by the allied
+       fleets in 1857.</p>
+
+    <p>In the next street, Treasury Street (said to be the finest
+    in Canton), you can buy burning-sticks measured to mark the
+    time. They are extremely cheap, but perfectly accurate, and
+    there seems little doubt that they have been used by the
+    Chinese for thousands of years before the Christian era. Here,
+    too, were the large spectacles so much worn; opium pipes, with
+    all the paraphernalia for cleaning and smoking them; water
+    pipes in pretty little shagreen cases, and many other curious
+    articles in common use, of which we purchased specimens.</p>
+
+    <p>In the Feather Street are innumerable shops containing
+    nothing but feathers of all kinds for mandarins, actors, and
+    ordinary mortals; but the great ambition of every Chinaman is
+    to have a feather from the Emperor. They are all called
+    peacocks' feathers, one-eyed, two-eyed, or three-eyed; but, in
+    reality, many are pheasants' feathers. Some of these are from
+    six to eight feet in length, beautifully marked. I bought two
+    pairs over seven feet long. They are rather rare, as each bird
+    has only two long feathers, and these are in perfection for but
+    one month in the year. In this part of the town stands a
+    Chinese restaurant where only cats' and dogs' flesh is
+    served.</p>
+
+    <p>We passed through innumerable streets, and at last reached
+    the site of the old factories, now only occupied by
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 391<a name="Page_391"
+       id="Page_391"></a></span>a large and comfortable house. We
+       were to have embarked in the Consul's boat to visit the
+       Temple of Honan across the river, but it was getting late,
+       and every one felt tired; so we went back through more
+       crowded streets to rest awhile, before dressing to go out to
+       dinner at eight o'clock. The dinner was quite English in its
+       style, and the table looked bright with tea roses,
+       heliotrope, and mignonette. The tables had been charmingly
+       decorated by the Chinese servants, and even the <i>menu</i>
+       had been arranged by them. They seem to save their employer
+       all trouble, even that of thinking, provided the services of
+       really good ones can be secured. We have had one for only a
+       few days, and he does everything for Tom and me. He appears
+       to know exactly what we want to do or to wear, and to
+       foresee all our requirements.</p>
+
+    <p>But to return to this famous repast. It began with mandarin
+    bird's-nest soup, with plover's eggs floating about in it. This
+    is a most delicious and dainty dish, and is invariably given to
+    strangers on their first arrival. I had no idea how expensive
+    the nests were&mdash;54 dollars a 'pice,' weighing something
+    under a pound, and it takes two or three ounces to make enough
+    soup for ten people. We had a very pleasant evening, talking
+    over our experiences, and exchanging news as to our mutual
+    friends.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 392<a name="Page_392"
+       id="Page_392"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII"
+       id="CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">CANTON AND MACAO TO SINGAPORE.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>I remember the black wharves and the
+            slips</i>,<br /></span> <span class="i2"><i>And the
+            sea-tides tossing free</i>;<br /></span> <span><i>And
+            Spanish sailors with bearded lips</i>,<br /></span>
+            <span><i>And the beauty and mystery of the
+            ship</i><br /></span> <span class="i2"><i>And the magic
+            of the sea</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, March 3rd</i>.&mdash;After our long day
+    yesterday, I did not feel capable of acceding to our guide's
+    proposition of being ready at half-past six for further
+    explorations before breakfast; besides, I wanted to see Tom off
+    by the nine o'clock boat to Hongkong, whither he is obliged to
+    return in order to keep various engagements. The rest of our
+    party have been persuaded to stay and see a little more of
+    Canton and to go with some friends to a picnic in the White
+    Cloud Mountains. A man brought home to-day some carved
+    tortoiseshell brushes Tom has given me, with my name carved on
+    them in Chinese. It was no good writing it down for the
+    engraver's guidance, and after hearing it several times he
+    wrote down two characters; but, as the 'r' is always a great
+    difficulty with the Chinese, I much doubt whether the name is
+    really spelt rightly.</p>
+
+    <p>It was a most lovely day, and after some little delay we
+    started about eleven o'clock, a party of seventeen in chairs.
+    There were five ladies and twelve gentlemen&mdash;a most
+    unusual proportion for Canton. A few weeks ago they wanted to
+    get up a fancy ball, but there were only five available ladies
+    to be found in the city. At present one or two more are staying
+    here on a visit, and it is hoped that
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 393<a name="Page_393"
+       id="Page_393"></a></span>another ball may be arranged during
+       this week, which may boast of at least ten ladies. We made
+       quite a procession, with all the servants, bearers, &amp;c.,
+       and excited much commotion in the narrow streets, where
+       everybody had to make room and squeeze up to the side as
+       best they could. Men ran before to clear the way for us,
+       shouting, yet we were more than an hour going right across
+       the city. On our way we passed through the egg market, saw
+       the pork fat market, and the poulterers' and fowlers'
+       shops.</p>
+
+    <p>We managed to visit several shops for the sale of real
+    Chinese furniture. It is very handsome, but curious in form,
+    and, unless it is specially ordered, is made only for native
+    use. Every Chinese reception-room is furnished in precisely the
+    same manner, with very stiff high arm-chairs, arranged in two
+    rows. A small four-legged square table stands between every two
+    chairs, a larger table in the centre, and at the end an
+    enormous sofa, big enough for six or eight people to lie full
+    length across. The sofa and all the chairs have marble seats
+    and backs, and the tops of the tables are also made of marble,
+    or a sort of soapstone, on which may be distinguished natural
+    landscapes slightly assisted by art.</p>
+
+    <p>In the bird market I saw numbers of little birds for sale,
+    for the Chinese are very fond of pets, and often take their
+    birds out in a cage with them when they go for a walk, just as
+    we should be accompanied by a dog. They manage to tame them
+    thoroughly, and when they meet a friend they will put the cage
+    down, let the bird out, and give him something to eat while
+    they have their chat. I saw this done several times.</p>
+
+    <p>Our road next led us through part of the butchers' quarter,
+    where rats were hung up by their tails, and what looked very
+    like skinned cats and dogs dangled beside them. Whole cages
+    full of these animals were exposed for sale alive. Some
+    travellers deny that the Chinese eat cats and dogs and rats,
+    but there can be no question that they do so, though they may
+    be the food only of the <span class="pagenum">Page
+    394<a name="Page_394"
+       id="Page_394"></a></span>lower classes. Nor do 'puppy dogs'
+       appear on the tables of the rich, except on one particular
+       day in the year, when to eat them is supposed to bring good
+       luck. We passed a restaurant where I was shown the bill of
+       fare in Chinese of which this is a translation:&mdash;</p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">BILL OF FARE FOR THE DAY.</p>
+
+    <table cellspacing="0"
+           cellpadding="4"
+           border="0"
+           summary="Chinese Bill of Fare">
+        <tr>
+            <td>One tael of black dog's flesh</td>
+
+            <td>eight cash.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One tael weight of black dog's fat</td>
+
+            <td>three kandareems of silver.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One large basin of black cat's flesh</td>
+
+            <td>one hundred cash.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One small basin of black cat's flesh</td>
+
+            <td>fifty cash.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One large bottle of common wine</td>
+
+            <td>thirty-two cash.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One small bottle of common wine</td>
+
+            <td>sixteen cash.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One large bottle of dark rice wine</td>
+
+            <td>sixty-eight cash.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One small basin of cat's flesh</td>
+
+            <td>thirty-four cash.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One large bottle of plum wine</td>
+
+            <td>sixty-eight cash.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One small bottle of plum wine</td>
+
+            <td>thirty-four cash.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One large basin of dog's flesh</td>
+
+            <td>sixty-eight cash.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One small bottle of pear wine</td>
+
+            <td>thirty-four cash.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One large bottle of timtsin wine</td>
+
+            <td>ninety-six cash.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One small bottle of timtsin wine</td>
+
+            <td>forty-eight cash.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One basin of congee</td>
+
+            <td>three cash.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One small plate of pickles</td>
+
+            <td>three cash.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One small saucer of ketchup or vinegar &nbsp;</td>
+
+            <td>three cash.</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>One pair of black cat's eyes</td>
+
+            <td>three kandareems of silver.</td>
+        </tr>
+    </table>
+
+    <p>The fish here, as at Hongkong, are almost always kept alive
+    in large tubs of water, with a fountain playing over them. They
+    even keep some sea-fish alive in salt water. But it is in the
+    north of China that they excel in rearing fish in large
+    quantities. At Foo-chow cormorant fishing may be seen to great
+    perfection, and it is said to be a very amusing sight.</p>
+
+    <p>At last the city gates were reached, and we once more found
+    ourselves outside the walls, and able to breathe again. Here a
+    halt was made, and several of the party got out of their chairs
+    and walked, and we were able to chat, whilst we wended our way
+    by a narrow path through nursery gardens and graveyards. In
+    fact the whole of the White Cloud Mountain is one vast
+    cemetery&mdash;it is the <span class="pagenum">Page
+    395<a name="Page_395"
+       id="Page_395"></a></span>Chinese Holy of Holies, whither
+       their bodies are sent, not only from all parts of China, but
+       from all parts of the world. Frequently a shipload of 1,500
+       or 1,600 bodies arrives in one day. The Steamboat Company
+       charges 40 dollars for the passage of a really live
+       Chinaman, as against 160 dollars for the carriage of a dead
+       celestial. The friends of the deceased often keep the bodies
+       in coffins above ground for several years, until the priests
+       announce that they have discovered a lucky day and a lucky
+       spot for the interment. This does not generally happen until
+       he&mdash;the priest&mdash;finds he can extract no more money
+       by divination, and that no more funeral feasts will be given
+       by the friends. We passed through what they call the city of
+       the dead, where thousands of coffins waiting for interment
+       were lying above ground. The coffins are large and massive,
+       but very plain, resembling the hollowed-out trunk of a tree.
+       The greatest compliment a Chinese can pay his older
+       relatives is to make them a present of four handsome
+       longevity boards for their coffins. Outside the city of the
+       dead were the usual adjuncts of a large
+       burying-place&mdash;coffin-makers and stone-carvers, all
+       living in dirty little cottages, surrounded by pigs, ducks,
+       and young children.</p>
+
+    <p>Leaving the cemetery and cottages behind, a too short drive
+    brought us to a lovely valley, where we were to lunch at the
+    temple of San Chew, in one of its fairest gorges. The meal was
+    spread in a large hall in a most luxurious manner, and as the
+    wind changed almost immediately, and it came on to rain, we
+    felt ourselves fortunate indeed in having reached shelter. We
+    had plenty of wraps, and the bearers ran us down the hill again
+    very quickly, so that we suffered no discomfort.</p>
+
+    <p>By the time the city walls were reached, the rain had
+    ceased, and a glorious red sunset glowed over the roofs,
+    glinting through the holes in the mats, and lighting up all the
+    vermilion boards and gold characters with which the houses and
+    shops are decorated. The shadowy streets
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 396<a name="Page_396"
+       id="Page_396"></a></span>were now full of incense or rather
+       joss-stick smoke, for every house and every shop has a large
+       altar inside, and a small one without, before which
+       joss-sticks are burnt more or less all day long.</p>
+
+    <p>The streets seemed more crowded even than usual. Each of our
+    bearers struck out a line of his own, and it was not until we
+    reached Shameen that we all met again. Some of the ladies had
+    been rather frightened at finding themselves alone in the dark,
+    crowded city. We were only just in time to dress and go to
+    dinner, after which we examined an interesting collection,
+    chiefly of coins, in process of formation for the French
+    Exhibition. They are carefully arranged, and will be most
+    valuable and interesting when complete. The knife-and-fork
+    coins are particularly curious and rare, some of them being
+    worth as much as 5,000 dollars each, as curiosities. All the
+    coins have holes in the centre for convenience of carriage.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, March 4th</i>.&mdash;There is a fine cathedral at
+    Shameen, in which the services are beautifully performed. A
+    lady kindly lent us her house-boat, and after service we rowed
+    across to Fa-ti, to see the gardens of Canton. They are laid
+    out on an island a very short way up the river. The gardens are
+    very wonderful, and contain plants cut into all sorts of
+    shapes, such as men, birds, beasts, fishes, boats, houses,
+    furniture, &amp;c. Some are full-sized, others only in
+    miniature. But almost all must have required considerable time
+    and patience to reach their present growth, for their ages vary
+    from 10 to 150 years. There are other plants not so elaborately
+    trained, but the effect of the whole is rather too formal to be
+    pretty. I managed to bring home some euphorbias, cut into the
+    form of junks, and some banyan trees, one 100 and one 50 years
+    old. I believe they are the first that have ever reached
+    England alive and have flourished. Not far from Fa-ti are the
+    duck-hatching establishments, and still further up the river
+    are the duck-sampans, where the crowds of ducks are reared.
+    They are <span class="pagenum">Page 397<a name="Page_397"
+       id="Page_397"></a></span>sent out every morning to get their
+       own living and return at night. Until they learn to obey
+       their keeper's call quickly the last duck is always whipped.
+       I am told it is most ridiculous to see the hurry of the last
+       half-dozen birds of a flock of some thousands of ducks. I
+       was most anxious to see them, but it is not the right time
+       of year now. The young ducks are only just beginning to
+       hatch, and the old ones are not numerous, and are mostly
+       laying.</p>
+
+    <p>There was no time to go and see the temple of Honan, for we
+    were more anxious to avail ourselves of a chance of visiting
+    some interesting places in the Chinese city. We went through a
+    street, consisting entirely of fruiterers' shops, to which the
+    name of Kwohlaorn, or fruit-market, is applied. In this market,
+    which is of great extent, there is for sale at all seasons of
+    the year an almost countless variety of fruit.</p>
+
+    <p>A silkworm establishment was pointed out to us in the
+    distance, but we did not go over it, as we had seen many
+    before, and it is not the best season of the year. The
+    silkworms are most carefully tended, the people who look after
+    them being obliged to change their clothes before entering the
+    rooms where they are kept, and to perform all sorts of
+    superstitious ceremonies at every stage of the insect's growth.
+    No one at all ailing or deformed is allowed to approach a
+    building where they are kept. The worms are supposed to be very
+    nervous, and are guarded from everything that can possibly
+    frighten them, as well as from all changes of temperature or
+    disturbances of the atmosphere. Thunder and lightning they are
+    supposed specially to dread, and great pains are taken to
+    shelter them by artificial means, and keep them from all
+    knowledge of the storm.</p>
+
+    <p>The next place we visited was a bird's-nest-soup-shop
+    street, where we went into one of the best and most extensive
+    establishments. There were three or four well-dressed
+    assistants behind the counter, all busily occupied in sorting
+    and packing birds' nests. Some of the best were as white as
+    snow, and were worth two dollars each,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 398<a name="Page_398"
+       id="Page_398"></a></span>while a light brown one was worth
+       only one dollar, and the black dirty ones, full of feathers
+       and moss, could be purchased at the rate of a quarter
+       dollar.</p>
+
+    <p>Certainly the Chinese seem an exception to the rule laid
+    down by some writers, that no people can flourish who do not
+    rest every seventh day. In many ways they are an abnormal
+    people, one striking point in their condition being the state
+    of dirt and filth in which they not only exist, but increase
+    and multiply. The children look healthy and happy too, in spite
+    of these apparent drawbacks, and notwithstanding the fact that
+    in many cases their poor little feet must be cruelly tortured
+    by the practice of bandaging them tightly to make them
+    small.</p>
+
+    <p>When we got back to Shameen there was time for a stroll
+    along the Bund. It is very pleasant, for the river runs close
+    under the parapet, and its surface is always covered with
+    junks, sampans, and boats and ships, going swiftly up or down
+    with the strong tide. The walk is shaded with trees, and seats
+    stand at intervals all along it.</p>
+
+    <p>An agreeable saunter was followed by a quiet, pleasant
+    little dinner, and though we have been here only a few days we
+    feel quite sorry that this is to be our last night in Canton,
+    so kind has everybody been to us.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_413"
+             id="Illus_413"></a> <img src="images/413.gif"
+             width="405"
+             height="276"
+             alt="Illustration: Chinese Foot and boot"
+             title="Illustration: Chinese Foot and boot" />
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, March 5th</i>.&mdash;I was awake and writing from
+    half-past four this morning, but before I got up, a woman who
+    comes here every day to work brought me some small ordinary
+    shoes which I had purchased as curiosities, and took the
+    opportunity of showing me her feet. It really made me shudder
+    to look at them, so deformed and cramped up were they, and, as
+    far as I could make out, she must have suffered greatly in the
+    process of reducing them to their present diminutive size. She
+    took off her own shoes and tottered about the room in
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 399<a name="Page_399"
+       id="Page_399"></a></span>those she had brought, and then
+       asked me to show her one of mine. Having most minutely
+       examined it, she observed, with a melancholy shake of the
+       head, 'Missisy foot much more good, do much walky, walky;
+       mine much bad, no good for walky.'</p>
+
+    <p>Having said farewell to our kind hostess, we went off in the
+    house-boat to the steamer. There was a great crowd on the lower
+    deck&mdash;at least 900 Chinamen&mdash;to struggle through in
+    order to reach the European quarters. We found other friends on
+    board, who had come to see us off.</p>
+
+    <p>A few minutes before nine o'clock the bell rang as a signal
+    for our friends' departure, and we steamed ahead, among such a
+    crowd of sampans and junks that it was more like moving through
+    a town than along a river. No accident, however, occurred,
+    though one junk and one sampan had the very narrowest
+    escape.</p>
+
+    <p>The voyage down took much longer than our voyage up, on
+    account of the tide being against us, and in consequence we did
+    not reach Hongkong until 3.30 p.m., when the gig with the
+    children was soon alongside. We got off as soon as we could,
+    for we expected some friends to afternoon tea on board the
+    yacht. There was just time to dress before the first visitors
+    arrived, and by half-past six at least two hundred had come. At
+    one time quite a flotilla of boats lay around us, looking very
+    pretty with all their flags flying. I think the people enjoyed
+    it very much as something new, and we only wanted a band to
+    enliven the proceedings.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, March 6th</i>.&mdash;The little girls and I went
+    ashore at 7.30, to collect all our purchases with the help of a
+    friend. We glanced at the museum too, which contains some
+    curious specimens of Chinese and Japanese arms and armour, and
+    the various productions of the two countries, besides many
+    strange things from the Philippine and other islands. I was
+    specially interested in the corals and shells. There were
+    splendid conch shells from Manilla, <span class="pagenum">Page
+    400<a name="Page_400"
+       id="Page_400"></a></span>and a magnificent group of Venus
+       flower-baskets, dredged from some enormous depth near
+       Manilla. There were also good specimens of reptiles of all
+       sorts, and of the carved birds' heads for which Canton is
+       famous. They look very like amber, and are quite as
+       transparent, being carved to a great depth. I believe the
+       bird is a kind of toucan or hornbill, but the people here
+       call it a crane.</p>
+
+    <p>It was now time to say good-bye to Hongkong and to our kind
+    friends, for we had to go on board the 'Flying Cloud,' which
+    starts for Macao at two o'clock precisely, and our passages had
+    been taken in her. Tom could not go with us, as he had fixed
+    to-night for the dinner at which the Chinese gentlemen proposed
+    to entertain him; but he came to see us off. We went out of the
+    harbour by a different way, and passed along a different side
+    of the island of Hongkong, but the scenery was not particularly
+    interesting. Off Choolong a heavy ground-swell, called 'Pon
+    choughai,' made us roll about most unpleasantly. In bad
+    weather, or with a top-heavy ship, this passage could not be
+    attempted. Sometimes there are very heavy fogs, and always
+    strong currents, so that the short voyage of forty-two miles is
+    not absolutely free from danger.</p>
+
+    <p>The town of Macao is situated on a peninsula at the end of
+    the island of the same name. It was the first foreign
+    settlement in China belonging to the Portuguese, and was once a
+    fine, handsome town, with splendid buildings. Unfortunately
+    Macao lies in the track of the typhoons, which at times sweep
+    over it with a resistless force, shattering and smashing
+    everything in their career. These constantly recurring storms,
+    and the establishment of other ports, have resulted in driving
+    many people away from the place, and the abolition of the
+    coolie traffic has also tended to diminish the number of
+    traders. Now the town has a desolate, deserted appearance, and
+    the principal revenue of the government is derived from the
+    numerous gambling-houses.<span class="pagenum">Page
+    401<a name="Page_401"
+       id="Page_401"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>We landed at the pier soon after five o'clock, and were
+    carried across the peninsula through the town to the Praya on
+    the other side. Here we found a large unoccupied mansion,
+    situated in a garden overlooking the sea, and, having delivered
+    our Chinese letters, were received with the greatest civility
+    and attention by the comprador and the servants who had been
+    left in charge of our friend's house. The rooms upstairs, to
+    which we were at once shown, were lofty and spacious, opening
+    into a big verandah. Each room had a mosquito room inside it,
+    made of wire gauze and wood, like a gigantic meat-safe, and
+    capable of containing, besides a large double bed, a chair and
+    a table, so that its occupant is in a position to read and
+    write in peace, even after dark. This was the first time we had
+    seen one of these contrivances. By the direction of the
+    comprador the house chairs were prepared, and coolies were
+    provided to take us for an expedition round the town, while our
+    things were being unpacked, and the necessary arrangements made
+    for our comfort. Macao is a thoroughly Portuguese-looking town,
+    the houses being painted blue, green, red, yellow, and all
+    sorts of colours. It is well garrisoned, and one meets soldiers
+    in every direction. We passed the fort, and went up to the
+    lighthouse, which commands a fine view over land and sea;
+    returning home by a different way through the town again, which
+    we entered just as the cathedral bell and the bells of all the
+    churches were pealing the Ave Maria. On our return we found a
+    fire lighted and everything illuminated, and by half-past eight
+    we had a capital impromptu dinner served. Chinese Tommy, who
+    waited on us, had decorated the table most tastefully with
+    flowers. Macao is a favourite resort for the European residents
+    of Hongkong who are addicted to gambling. The gentlemen of our
+    party went to observe the proceedings, but to-night there were
+    only a few natives playing at fan-tan&mdash;a game which,
+    though a great favourite with the natives, appears very stupid
+    to a European. The croupier takes <span class="pagenum">Page
+    402<a name="Page_402"
+       id="Page_402"></a></span>a handful of copper cash and throws
+       it upon the table; he then with chop-sticks counts the coins
+       by fours, the betting being upon the possible number of the
+       remainder. It takes a long time to count a big handful, and
+       you have only one, two, three, or four to back&mdash;no
+       colours or combinations, as at <i>rouge-et-noir</i>, or
+       <i>trente-et-quarante</i>.</p>
+
+    <p>At Macao the sleep-disturbing watchmen, unlike those of
+    Canton, come round every hour and beat two sharp taps on a drum
+    at intervals of half a minute, compelling you to listen against
+    your will, until the sound dies away in the distance for a
+    brief interval.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, March 7th</i>.&mdash;We started soon after ten
+    o'clock on another exploring expedition, going first in chairs
+    through the town, and across the peninsula to where we left the
+    steamer yesterday. Here we embarked&mdash;chairs, bearers, and
+    all, in a junk, evidently cleaned up for the occasion, for it
+    was in beautiful order, and mats were spread under an awning
+    upon deck.</p>
+
+    <p>All along beneath the deck was a cabin, between two and
+    three feet high, which contained the altar, the kitchen, and
+    the sleeping and living apartments of the family. There was
+    also a dear little baby, two months old, which seemed to take
+    life very quietly, while its mother assisted its grandfather to
+    row.</p>
+
+    <p>We soon reached the island of Chock-Sing-Toon, and
+    disembarked at a small pier near a village, which looked more
+    like sampans pulled up on the shore than huts or cottages. The
+    children and I rode in chairs, while the gentlemen walked,
+    first over a plain covered with scrubby palms, then through
+    miles of well-cultivated plots of vegetable ground, till we
+    reached a temple, built at the entrance to the valley for which
+    we were bound. Thence the path wound beside the stream flowing
+    from the mountains above, and the vegetation became extremely
+    luxuriant and beautiful. Presently we came to a spot where a
+    stone bridge spanned the torrent, with a temple on one side and
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 403<a name="Page_403"
+       id="Page_403"></a></span>a joss-house on the other. It was
+       apparently a particularly holy place, for our men had all
+       brought quantities of joss-sticks and sacred paper with them
+       to burn. There was a sort of eating-house close by, where
+       they remained whilst we climbed higher up to get a view. The
+       path was well made, and evidently much used, judging from
+       the large number of natural temples we found adapted and
+       decorated among the rocks. As usual, our descent was a
+       comparatively quick affair, and we soon found ourselves on
+       board the junk on our way back to Macao, beating across the
+       harbour.</p>
+
+    <p>Just before tiffin the yacht made her appearance, causing
+    great excitement in the minds of the natives. The gig was soon
+    lowered and came as close as she could. There was not water
+    enough for her to come within four miles of the shore, but we
+    went out to meet her occupants. Tom, who was one of them,
+    looked so ill and miserable that I felt quite alarmed for a few
+    minutes, till the doctor comforted me by assurances that it was
+    only the effect of the Chinese dinner last night&mdash;an
+    explanation I had no difficulty in accepting as the correct one
+    after perusing the bill of fare. In their desire to do him
+    honour, and to give him pleasure, his hosts had provided the
+    rarest delicacies, and of course he felt obliged to taste them
+    all. Some of the dishes were excellent, but many of them were
+    rather trying to a European digestion, especially the fungus
+    and lichen. One sort had been grown on ice in the Antarctic
+    Sea, the whale's sinews came from the Arctic Ocean, the shark's
+    fins from the South Sea Islands, and the birds' nests were of a
+    quality to be found only in one particular cave in one
+    particular island. To drink, they had champagne in English
+    glasses, and arrack in Chinese glasses. The whole dinner was
+    eaten with chop-sticks, though spoons were allowed for the
+    soup. After dinner there were some good speeches, the chief
+    host expressing his deep regret that their manners and customs
+    did not permit them to ask <span class="pagenum">Page
+    404<a name="Page_404"
+       id="Page_404"></a></span>ladies, as they were particularly
+       anxious to invite me, and had only abandoned the idea of
+       doing so after considerable discussion. I append the bill of
+       fare:&mdash;</p>
+
+    <p class="ctr"><i>March</i> 6, 1877.<br />
+    <br />
+    BILL OF FARE.</p>
+
+    <p>4 <i>courses of small bowls, one to each guest,
+    viz</i>.&mdash;</p>
+
+    <p class="ctr"><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Bird's-nest
+    Soup</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Pigeon's Eggs</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Ice Fungus (said to grow in
+    ice)</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Shark's Fins
+    (chopped)</span></p>
+
+    <p>8 <i>large bowls, viz</i>.&mdash;</p>
+
+    <p class="ctr"><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Stewed Shark's
+    Fins</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Fine Shell Fish</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Mandarin Bird's
+    Nest</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Canton Fish Maw</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Fish Brain</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Meat Balls with Rock
+    Fungus</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Pigeons stewed with Wai Shan
+    (a strengthening herb)</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Stewed Mushroom</span></p>
+
+    <p>4 <i>dishes, viz</i>.&mdash;</p>
+
+    <p class="ctr"><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Sliced
+    Ham</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Roast Mutton</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Fowls</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Roast Sucking Pig</span></p>
+
+    <p>1 <i>large dish, viz</i>.&mdash;</p>
+
+    <p class="ctr"><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Boiled Rock
+    Fish</span></p>
+
+    <p>8 <i>small bowls, viz</i>.&mdash;</p>
+
+    <p class="ctr"><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Stewed Pig's
+    Palate</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Minced Quails</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Stewed Fungus (another
+    description)</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Sinews of the Whale
+    Fish</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Rolled Roast
+    Fowl</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Sliced Teals</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Stewed Duck's
+    Paw</span><br />
+    <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Peas stewed</span></p>
+
+    <p>We went all round the town, and then to see the ruins of the
+    cathedral, and the traces of the destruction caused by the
+    typhoon in 1874. Next we paid a visit to the garden
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 405<a name="Page_405"
+       id="Page_405"></a></span>of Camoens, where he wrote his
+       poems in exile<a name="FNanchor_20_20"
+       id="FNanchor_20_20">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_20_20"
+       class="fnanchor">[20]</a> The garden now belongs to a most
+       courteous old Portuguese, with whom I managed, by the aid of
+       a mixture of Spanish and French, to hold a conversation. The
+       place where Camoens' monument is erected commands, however,
+       an extensive prospect, but we had already seen it, and as
+       Tom was anxious to get clear of the islands before dark we
+       were obliged to hasten away.</p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_20_20"
+           id="Footnote_20_20"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a>
+           Luiz de Camoens, a celebrated Portuguese poet, born
+           about 1520; fought against the Moors, and in India; but
+           was often in trouble, and was frequently banished or
+           imprisoned. During his exile in Macao he wrote his great
+           poem 'The Lusiads,' in which he celebrates the principal
+           events in Portuguese history.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>On reaching the yacht, after some delay in embarking, we
+    slipped our anchor as quickly as possible, and soon found
+    ourselves in a nasty rolling sea, which sent me to bed at once.
+    Poor Tom, though he felt so ill that he could hardly hold his
+    head up, was, however, obliged to remain on deck watching until
+    nearly daylight; for rocks and islands abound in these seas,
+    and no one on board could undertake the pilotage except
+    himself.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, March 8th</i>.&mdash;When I went on deck at
+    half-past six o'clock there was nothing to be seen but a leaden
+    sky, a cold grey rolling sea, and two fishing junks in the far
+    distance, nor did the weather improve all day.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, March 9th</i>.&mdash;Everybody began to settle
+    down to the usual sea occupations. There was a general
+    hair-cutting all round, one of the sailors being a capital
+    barber, and there is never time to attend to this matter when
+    ashore. The wind was high and baffling all day. At night the
+    Great Bear and the Southern Cross shone out with rivalling
+    brilliancy: 'On either hand an old friend and a new.'</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, March 10th</i>.&mdash;A fine day, with a light
+    fair breeze. Passed the island of Hainan, belonging to China,
+    situated at the entrance of the Gulf of Tonquin, which,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 406<a name="Page_406"
+       id="Page_406"></a></span>though very barren-looking,
+       supports a population of 150,000.</p>
+
+    <p>Repacked the curiosities and purchases from Canton and
+    Hongkong, and made up our accounts.</p>
+
+    <p>About noon we passed a tall bamboo sticking straight up out
+    of the water, and wondered if it were the topmast of some
+    unfortunate junk sunk on the Paranella Shoal. There were many
+    flying-fish about, and the sunset was lovely.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, March 11th</i>.&mdash;We feel that we are going
+    south rapidly, for the heat increases day by day. The services
+    were held on deck at eleven and four.</p>
+
+    <p>About five o'clock I heard cries of 'A turtle on the
+    starboard bow,' 'A wreck on the starboard bow.' I rushed out to
+    see what it was, and the men climbed into the rigging to obtain
+    a better view of the object. It proved to be a large piece of
+    wood, partially submerged, apparently about twenty or thirty
+    feet long. The exposed part was covered with barnacles and
+    seaweed, and there was a large iron ring attached to one end.
+    We were sailing too fast to stop, or I should have liked to
+    have sent a boat to examine this 'relic of the sea' more
+    closely. These waifs and strays always set me thinking and
+    wondering, and speculating as to what they were originally,
+    whence they came, and all about them, till Tom declares I weave
+    a complete legend for every bit of wood we meet floating
+    about.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, March 13th</i>.&mdash;About 2.30 a.m. the main
+    peak halyards were carried away. Soon after we gybed, and for
+    two or three hours knocked about in the most unpleasant manner.
+    At daybreak we made the island of Pulu Lapata, or Shoe Island,
+    situated on the coast of Cochin China, looking snowy white in
+    the early morning light.</p>
+
+    <p>The day was certainly warm, though we were gliding on
+    steadily and pleasantly before the north-east monsoon.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, March 14th</i>.&mdash;The monsoon sends us
+    along at the rate of from six to seven knots an hour, without
+    the <span class="pagenum">Page 407<a name="Page_407"
+       id="Page_407"></a></span>slightest trouble or inconvenience.
+       There is an unexpected current, though, which sets us about
+       twenty-five miles daily to the westward, notwithstanding the
+       fact that a 'southerly current' is marked on the chart.</p>
+
+    <p><i>March 16th</i>.&mdash;There was a general scribble going
+    on all over the ship, in preparation for the post to-morrow, as
+    we hope to make Singapore to-night, or very early in the
+    morning. About noon Pulo Aor was seen on our starboard bow. In
+    the afternoon, being so near the Straits, the funnel was raised
+    and steam got up. At midnight we made the Homburgh Light, and
+    shortly afterwards passed a large steamer steering north. It
+    was a glorious night, though very hot below, and I spent most
+    of it on deck with Tom, observing the land as we slowly steamed
+    ahead half speed.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 408<a name="Page_408"
+       id="Page_408"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV"
+       id="CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">SINGAPORE.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>Betwixt them lawns, or level downs, and
+            flocks</i><br /></span> <span><i>Grazing the tender
+            herb, were interpos'd</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Or
+            palmy hillock, or the flow'ry lap</i><br /></span>
+            <span><i>Of some irriguous valley spread her
+            store</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Flowers of all hues,
+            and without thorn the rose</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, March 17th</i>.&mdash;We were off Singapore
+    during the night. At 5 a.m. the pilot came on board and took us
+    into Tangong Pagar to coal alongside the wharf. We left the
+    ship as soon as possible, and in about an hour we had taken
+    forty-three tons of coal on board and nearly twenty tons of
+    water. The work was rapidly performed by coolies. It was a
+    great disappointment to be told by the harbour-master that the
+    Governor of the Straits Settlement and Lady Jervoise were to
+    leave at eleven o'clock for Johore. We determined to go
+    straight to the Government House and make a morning call at the
+    unearthly hour of 8 a.m. The drive from the wharf was full of
+    beauty, novelty, and interest. We had not landed so near the
+    line before, and the most tropical of tropical plants, trees,
+    flowers, and ferns, were here to be seen, growing by the
+    roadside on every bank and dust-heap.</p>
+
+    <p>The natives, Malays, are a fine-looking, copper-coloured
+    race, wearing bright-coloured sarongs and turbans. There are
+    many Indians, too, from Madras, almost black, and swathed in
+    the most graceful white muslin garments, when they are not too
+    hard at work to wear anything at all. The young women are very
+    good-looking. They wear not <span class="pagenum">Page
+    409<a name="Page_409"
+       id="Page_409"></a></span>only one but several rings, and
+       metal ornaments in their noses, and a profusion of metal
+       bangles on their arms and legs, which jingle and jangle as
+       they move.</p>
+
+    <p>The town of Singapore itself is not imposing, its streets,
+    or rather roads of wooden huts and stone houses, being mixed
+    together indiscriminately. Government House is on the outskirts
+    of the city in the midst of a beautiful park which is kept in
+    excellent order, the green turf being closely mown and dotted
+    with tropical trees and bushes. The House itself is large and
+    handsome, and contains splendid suites of lofty rooms, shaded
+    by wide verandahs, full of ferns and palms, looking deliciously
+    green and cool. We found the Governor and his family did not
+    start until 11.30, and they kindly begged us to return to
+    breakfast at half-past nine, which we did. Before finally
+    leaving, Sir William Jervoise sent for the Colonial Secretary,
+    and asked him to look after us in his absence. He turned out to
+    be an old schoolfellow and college friend of Tom's at Rugby and
+    Oxford; so the meeting was a very pleasant one. As soon as the
+    Governor and his suite had set off for Johore we went down into
+    the hot dusty town to get our letters, parcels, and papers, and
+    to look at the shops. There are not many Malay specialities to
+    be bought here; most of the curiosities come from India, China,
+    and Japan, with the exception of birds of Paradise from New
+    Guinea, and beautiful bright birds of all colours and sizes
+    from the various islands in the Malay Archipelago.</p>
+
+    <p>The north-east monsoon still blows fresh and strong, but it
+    was nevertheless terribly hot in the streets, and we were very
+    glad to return to the cool, shady rooms at Government House,
+    where we thoroughly appreciated the delights of the punkah.</p>
+
+    <p>There are very few European servants here, and they all have
+    their own peons to wait on them, and carry an umbrella over
+    them when they drive the carriage or go for a walk on their own
+    account. Even the private soldier <span class="pagenum">Page
+    410<a name="Page_410"
+       id="Page_410"></a></span>in Singapore has a punkah pulled
+       over his bed at night. It is quite a sight to meet all the
+       coolies leaving barracks at 5 a.m., when they have done
+       punkah-pulling.</p>
+
+    <p>At four o'clock Mr. Douglas called to take us for a drive.
+    We went first to the Botanical Gardens, and saw sago-palms and
+    all sorts of tropical produce flourishing in perfection. There
+    were many beautiful birds and beasts, Argus pheasants, Lyre
+    birds, cuckoos, doves, and pigeons, more like parrots than
+    doves in the gorgeous metallic lustre of their plumage. The
+    cages were large, and the enclosures in front full of Cape
+    jasmine bushes (covered with buds) for the birds to peck at and
+    eat.</p>
+
+    <p>From the gardens we went for a drive through the pretty
+    villas that surround Singapore in every direction. Every house
+    outside the town is built on a separate little hill in order to
+    catch every breath of fresh air. There is generally rather a
+    long drive up to the houses, and the public roads run along the
+    valleys between them.</p>
+
+    <p>It was now dark, and we returned to dine at Government
+    House.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, March 18th</i>.&mdash;At six o'clock this morning
+    Mabelle and I went ashore with the steward and the comprador to
+    the market. It is a nice, clean, octagonal building, well
+    supplied with vegetables and curious fruits. The latter are
+    mostly brought from the other islands, as this is the worst
+    season of the year in Singapore for fruit. I do not quite
+    understand why this should be, for, as it is only a degree
+    above the line, there is very little variation in the seasons
+    here. The sun always rises and sets at six o'clock all the year
+    round; for months they have a north-east monsoon, and then for
+    months together a south-west monsoon.</p>
+
+    <p>We tasted many fruits new to us&mdash;delicious mangosteens,
+    lacas, and other fruits whose names I could not ascertain.
+    Lastly, we tried a durian, <i>the</i> fruit of the East, as it
+    is called by people who live here, and having got
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 411<a name="Page_411"
+       id="Page_411"></a></span>over the first horror of the
+       onion-like odour we found it by no means bad.</p>
+
+    <p>The fish market is the cleanest, and best arranged, and
+    sweetest smelling that I ever went through. It is situated on a
+    sort of open platform, under a thick thatched roof, built out
+    over the sea, so that all the refuse is easily disposed of and
+    washed away by the tide. From the platform on which it stands,
+    two long jetties run some distance out into the sea, so that
+    large fishing boats can come alongside and discharge their
+    cargoes from the deep at the door of the market with scarcely
+    any exposure to the rays of the tropical sun.</p>
+
+    <p>The poultry market is a curious place. On account of the
+    intense heat everything is brought alive to the market, and the
+    quacking, cackling, gobbling, and crowing that go on are really
+    marvellous. The whole street is alive with birds in baskets,
+    cages, and coops, or tied by the leg and thrown down anyhow.
+    There were curious pheasants and jungle-fowl from Perak, doves,
+    pigeons, quails, besides cockatoos, parrots, parrakeets, and
+    lories. They are all very tame and very cheap; and some of the
+    scarlet lories, looking like a flame of fire, chatter in the
+    most amusing way. I have a cage full of tiny parrots not bigger
+    than bullfinches, of a dark green colour, with dark red throats
+    and blue heads, yellow marks on the back, and red and yellow
+    tails. Having bought these, everybody seemed to think that I
+    wanted an unlimited supply of birds, and soon we were
+    surrounded by a chattering crowd, all with parrots in their
+    hands and on their shoulders. It was a very amusing sight,
+    though rather noisy, and the competition reduced the prices
+    very much. Parrakeets ranged from twelve to thirty cents
+    apiece, talking parrots and cockatoos from one to five dollars.
+    At last the vendors became so energetic that I was glad to get
+    into the gharry again, and drive away to a flower shop, where
+    we bought some gardenias for one penny a dozen, beautifully
+    fresh and fragrant, but with painfully short stalks.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 412<a name="Page_412"
+       id="Page_412"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>Towards the end of the south-west monsoon, little native
+    open boats arrive from the islands 1,500 to 3,000 miles to the
+    southward of Singapore. Each has one little tripod mast. The
+    whole family live on board. The sides of the boat cannot be
+    seen for the multitudes of cockatoos, parrots, parrakeets, and
+    birds of all sorts, fastened on little perches, with very short
+    strings attached to them. The decks are covered with
+    sandal-wood. The holds are full of spice, shells, feathers, and
+    South Sea pearl shells. With this cargo they creep from island
+    to island, and from creek to creek, before the monsoon, till
+    they reach their destination. They stay a month or six weeks,
+    change their goods for iron, nails, a certain amount of pale
+    green or Indian red thread for weaving, and some pieces of
+    Manchester cotton. They then go back with the north-east
+    monsoon, selling their goods at the various islands on their
+    homeward route. There are many Dutch ports nearer than
+    Singapore, but they are over-regulated, and preference is given
+    to the free English port, where the simple natives can do as
+    they like so long as they do not transgress the laws.</p>
+
+    <p>As we were going on board, we met the Maharajah of Johore's
+    servant, just going off with invitations to dinner, lunch, and
+    breakfast for the next two days for all our party, and with all
+    sorts of kind propositions for shooting and other
+    amusements.</p>
+
+    <p>Some of our friends came off before luncheon to see the
+    yacht, and we returned with them to tiffin at Government House.
+    At four o'clock the carriage came round to take us to Johore.
+    We wished good-bye to Singapore and all our kind friends, and
+    started on a lovely drive through the tropical scenery. There
+    is a capital road, fifteen miles in length, across the island,
+    and our little ponies rattled along at a good pace. There was a
+    pleasant breeze and not much dust, no sun, and a stream ran the
+    whole way by the side of the road. The acacia
+    flamboyante&mdash;that splendid tree which came originally from
+    Rangoon and Sumatra&mdash;was <span class="pagenum">Page
+    413<a name="Page_413"
+       id="Page_413"></a></span>planted alongside the road, and
+       produced a most charming effect. It is a large tree, with
+       large leaves of the most delicate green; on its topmost
+       boughs grow gorgeous clusters of scarlet flowers with yellow
+       centres, and the effect of these scarlet plumes tossing in
+       the air is truly beautiful. As we were driving along we
+       espied a splendid butterfly, with wings about ten inches
+       long. Mr. Bingham jumped out of the carriage and knocked it
+       down with his hat; but it was so like the colour of leaves
+       in grass that in the twilight nobody could distinguish it,
+       and, to our great disappointment, we could not find it. We
+       were equally unsuccessful in our attempted capture of a
+       water-snake a couple of feet long. We threw sticks and
+       stones and our syce waded into the stream, but all to no
+       purpose; it glided away into some safe little hole under the
+       bank.</p>
+
+    <p>We reached the sea-shore about six o'clock, and found the
+    Maharajah's steam-launch waiting to convey us across the
+    Straits to the mainland. These Straits used to be the old route
+    to Singapore, and are somewhat intricate. Tom engaged a very
+    good pilot to bring the yacht round, but at the last moment
+    thought that he should like to bring her himself; the result
+    being that he arrived rather late for dinner. The Maharajah and
+    most of the party were out shooting when we arrived; but Sir
+    William Jervoise met us and showed us round the place, and also
+    arranged about rooms for us to dress in. Johore is a charming
+    place; the Straits are so narrow and full of bends that they
+    look more like a peaceful river or inland lake in the heart of
+    a tropical forest than an arm of the mighty ocean. As we
+    approached we had observed a good deal of smoke rising from the
+    jungle, and, as the shades of evening closed over the scene, we
+    could see the lurid glare of two extensive fires.</p>
+
+    <p>We sat down thirty to dinner at eight o'clock. There were
+    the Maharajah's brothers, the Prime Minister, Harkim or judge,
+    and several other Malay chiefs, the Governor
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 414<a name="Page_414"
+       id="Page_414"></a></span>of the Straits Settlements, his
+       family and suite, and one or two people from Singapore. The
+       dinner was cooked and served in European style; the table
+       decorated with gold and silver &eacute;pergnes full of
+       flowers, on velvet stands, and with heaps of small
+       cut-flower glasses full of jasmine. We were waited on by the
+       Malay servants of the establishment, dressed in grey and
+       yellow, and by the Governor's Madras servants, in white and
+       scarlet. The Maharajah and his native guests were all in
+       English evening dress, with white waistcoats, bright
+       turbans, and sarongs. The room was large and open on all
+       sides, and the fresh evening breeze, in addition to the
+       numerous punkahs, made it delightfully cool. The Maharajah
+       is a strict Mohammedan himself, and drinks nothing but
+       water. I spent the three hours during which the dinner
+       lasted in very pleasant conversation with my two neighbours.
+       We returned on board soon after eleven o'clock.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_429"
+             id="Illus_429"></a> <img src="images/t_429.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="178"
+             alt="Illustration: Maharajah of Johore's House"
+             title="Illustration: Maharajah of Johore's House" /><br />
+        <b>Maharajah of Johore's House</b><br />
+        <a href="images/429.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, March 19th</i>.&mdash;Mabelle and I went ashore
+    at six o'clock for a drive. It was a glorious morning, with a
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 415<a name="Page_415"
+       id="Page_415"></a></span>delightfully cool breeze, and the
+       excursion was most enjoyable. We drove first through the old
+       town of Johore, once of considerable importance, and still a
+       place of trade for opium, indigo, pepper, and other tropical
+       products. Nutmeg and maize used to be the great articles of
+       export, but latterly the growth has failed, and, instead of
+       the groves we had expected to see, there were only solitary
+       trees. After leaving the town we went along a good road for
+       some distance, with cottages and clearings on either side,
+       until we came to a pepper and gambir plantation. The two
+       crops are cultivated together, and both are grown on the
+       edge of the jungle, for the sake of the wood, which is
+       burned in the preparation of the gambir. I confess that I
+       had never heard of the latter substance before, but I find
+       that it is largely exported to Europe, where it is
+       occasionally employed for giving weight to silks, and for
+       tanning purposes.</p>
+
+    <p>The pepper garden we saw was many acres in extent. Some of
+    the trees in the forest close by are very fine, especially the
+    camphor-wood, and the great red, purple, and copper-coloured
+    oleanders, which grow in clumps twenty and thirty feet in
+    height. The orchids with which all the trees were covered,
+    hanging down in long tassels of lovely colours, or spread out
+    like great spotted butterflies and insects, were most lovely of
+    all. By far the most abundant was the white phal&aelig;nopsis,
+    with great drooping sprays of pure white waxy blossoms, some
+    delicately streaked with crimson, others with yellow. It was a
+    genuine jungle, and we were told that it is the resort of
+    numerous tigers and elephants, and that snakes abound.</p>
+
+    <p>On our way back through the town we stopped to see the
+    process of opium making. This drug is brought from India in an
+    almost raw state, rolled up in balls, about the size of
+    billiard balls, and wrapped in its own leaves. Here it is
+    boiled down, several times refined, and prepared for smoking.
+    The traffic in it forms a very profitable
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 416<a name="Page_416"
+       id="Page_416"></a></span>monopoly, which is shared in
+       Singapore between the English Government and the Maharajah
+       of Johore.</p>
+
+    <p>We also saw indigo growing; the dye is prepared very much in
+    the same way as the gambir. That grown here is not so good as
+    that which comes from India, and it is therefore not much
+    exported, though it is used by the innumerable Chinese in the
+    Malay peninsula to dye all their clothes, which are invariably
+    of some deep shade of blue. We saw sago-palms growing, but the
+    mill was not working, so that we could not see the process of
+    manufacture; but it seems to be very similar to the preparation
+    of tapioca, which we had seen in Brazil.</p>
+
+    <p>On our passage through the town we went to look at a large
+    gambling establishment; of course no one was playing so early
+    in the morning, but in the evening it is always densely
+    crowded, and is a great source of profit to the proprietor. I
+    could not manage to make out exactly from the description what
+    the game they play is like, but it was not fan-tan. We now left
+    the carriage, and strolled to see the people, the shops, and
+    the market. I bought all sorts of common curiosities, little
+    articles of everyday life, some of which will be sure to amuse
+    and interest my English friends. Among my purchases were a
+    wooden pillow, some joss candles, a two-stringed fiddle, and a
+    few preserved eggs, which they say are over a hundred years
+    old. The eggs are certainly nasty enough for anything; still it
+    seems strange that so thrifty a people as the Chinese should
+    allow so much capital to lie dormant&mdash;literally buried in
+    the earth.</p>
+
+    <p>At half-past nine o'clock the Maharajah, with the Governor
+    and all his guests, came on board. His Highness inspected the
+    yacht with the utmost minuteness and interest, though his
+    Mohammedan ideas about women were considerably troubled when he
+    was told that I had had a great deal to do with the designing
+    and arrangement of the interior. At half-past eleven the party
+    left, and an hour afterwards we went to make our adieux to the
+    Maharajah. <span class="pagenum">Page 417<a name="Page_417"
+       id="Page_417"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>On our departure the Maharajah ordered twenty coolies to
+    accompany us, laden with fragrant tropical plants. He also gave
+    me some splendid Malay silk sarongs, grown, made, and woven in
+    his kingdom, a pair of tusks of an elephant shot within a mile
+    of the house, besides a live little beast, not an alligator,
+    and not an armadillo or a lizard; in fact I do not know what it
+    is; it clings round my arm just like a bracelet, and it was
+    sent as a present by the ex-Sultan of Johore. Having said
+    farewell to our kind host and other friends, we pushed off from
+    the shore, and embarked on board the yacht; the anchor was up,
+    and by five o'clock a bend in the Straits hid hospitable and
+    pleasant Johore from our view, and all we could see was the
+    special steamer on her way back to Singapore with the
+    Maharajah's guests on board. At Tanjore we dropped our funny
+    little pilot, and proceeded on our course towards Penang. The
+    Straits are quite lovely, and fully repaid the trouble and time
+    involved in the detour made to visit them. The sun set and the
+    young moon arose over as lovely a tropical scene as you can
+    possibly imagine.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_432"
+             id="Illus_432"></a> <img src="images/t_432.jpg"
+             width="144"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: The pet Manis"
+             title="Illustration: The pet Manis" /><br />
+        <b>The pet Manis</b><br />
+        <a href="images/432.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, March 20th</i>.&mdash;At 5.30, when we were
+    called, the Doctor came and announced that he had something
+    very important to communicate to us. This proved to be that one
+    of our men was suffering from small-pox, and not from rheumatic
+    fever, as had been supposed. My first thought was that Muriel
+    had been with the Doctor to see him <span class="pagenum">Page
+    418<a name="Page_418"
+       id="Page_418"></a></span>yesterday evening; my next, that
+       many men had been sleeping in the same part of the vessel
+       with him; my third, that for his greater comfort he had been
+       each day in our part of the ship; and my fourth, what was to
+       be done now? After a short consultation, Tom decided to
+       alter our course for Malacca, where we arrived at half-past
+       nine; the Doctor at once went on shore in a native prahu to
+       make the best arrangements he could under the circumstances.
+       He was fortunate enough to find Dr. Simon, nephew of the
+       celebrated surgeon of the same name, installed as head
+       physician at the civil hospital here. He came off at once
+       with the hospital boat, and, having visited the invalid,
+       declared his illness to be a very mild case of small-pox. He
+       had brought off some lymph with him, and recommended us all
+       to be re-vaccinated. He had also brought sundry
+       disinfectants, and gave instructions about fumigating and
+       disinfecting the yacht. All the men were called upon the
+       quarter-deck, and addressed by Tom, and we were surprised to
+       find what a large proportion of them objected to the
+       operation of vaccination. At last, however, the prejudices
+       of all of them, except two, were overcome. One of the latter
+       had promised his grandfather that he never would be
+       vaccinated under any circumstances, while another would
+       consent to be inoculated, but would not be vaccinated. We
+       had consulted our own medical man before leaving England,
+       and knew that for ourselves the operation was not necessary,
+       but we nevertheless underwent it <i>pour encourager les
+       autres</i>. While the Doctor was on shore we had been
+       surrounded by boats bringing monkeys, birds, ratan and
+       Malacca canes, fruit, rice, &amp;c., to sell, and as I did
+       not care to go ashore, thinking there might be some bother
+       about quarantine, we made bargains over the side of the
+       yacht with the traders, the result being that seven monkeys,
+       about fifty birds of sorts, and innumerable bundles of
+       canes, were added to the stock on board. In the meantime Dr.
+       Simon had removed our invalid to the
+       hospital.<span class="pagenum">Page 419<a name="Page_419"
+       id="Page_419"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>Malacca looks exceedingly pretty from the sea. It is a
+    regular Malay village, consisting of huts, built on piles close
+    to the water, overshadowed by cocoa palms and other forms of
+    tropical vegetation. Mount Ofia rises in the distance behind;
+    there are many green islands, too, in the harbour. By one
+    o'clock we were again under way, and once more <i>en route</i>
+    for Penang.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_434"
+             id="Illus_434"></a> <img src="images/t_434.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="148"
+             alt="Illustration: MALACCA"
+             title="Illustration: MALACCA" /><br />
+        <b>MALACCA</b><br />
+        <a href="images/434.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, March 21st</i>.&mdash;During the night we had
+    heavy thunder storms. About 11 a.m. we passed a piece of
+    drift-wood with a bird perched on the top, presenting a most
+    curious effect. Several of the men on board mistook it for the
+    back fin of a large shark. About 5 p.m. we made the island of
+    Penang. After sunset it became very hazy, and we crept slowly
+    up, afraid of injuring the numerous stake nets that are set
+    about the Straits most promiscuously, and without any lights to
+    mark their position. Before midnight we had dropped our
+    anchor.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, March 22nd</i>.&mdash;At 5 a.m., when we were
+    called, the whole sky was overcast with a lurid glare, and the
+    atmosphere was thick, as if with the fumes of some vast
+    conflagration. As the sun rose in raging fierceness,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 420<a name="Page_420"
+       id="Page_420"></a></span>the sky cleared, and became of a
+       deep, clear, transparent blue. The island of Penang is very
+       beautiful, especially in the early morning light. It was
+       fortunate we did not try to come in last night, as we could
+       now see that we must inevitably have run through some of the
+       innumerable stake nets I mentioned. As we approached
+       Georgetown, the capital of the province, we passed many
+       steamers and sailing ships at anchor in the roads. A pilot
+       offered his services, but Tom declined them with thanks, and
+       soon afterwards skilfully brought us up close in shore in
+       the crowded roadstead. The harbour-master sent off, as did
+       also the mail-master, but no Board of Health officials
+       appeared; so, after some delay, the Doctor went on shore to
+       find the local medical man, promising shortly to return. He
+       did not, however, reappear, and, after waiting a couple of
+       hours, we landed without opposition. We packed off all the
+       servants for a run on shore, and had all the fires put out
+       in order to cool the ship. Our first inquiry was for an
+       hotel where we could breakfast, and we were recommended to
+       go to the H&ocirc;tel de l'Europe.</p>
+
+    <p>Our demands for breakfast were met at first with the reply
+    that it was too late, and that we must wait till one o'clock
+    tiffin; but a little persuasion induced the manager to find
+    some cold meat, eggs, and lemonade. We afterwards drove out to
+    one or two shops, but anything so hopeless as the stores here I
+    never saw. Not a single curiosity could we find, not even a
+    bird. We drove round the town, and out to the Governor's house;
+    he was away, but we were most kindly received by Mrs. Anson and
+    his daughter, and strongly recommended by them to make an
+    expedition to the bungalow at the top of the hill. In about an
+    hour and a half, always ascending, we reached the Governor's
+    bungalow, situated in a charming spot, where the difference of
+    10&deg; in the temperature, caused by being 1,500 feet higher
+    up, is a great boon. After tiffin and a rest at the hotel, a
+    carriage came to take us to the foot of the hill,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 421<a name="Page_421"
+       id="Page_421"></a></span>about four miles from the town. We
+       went first to a large Jesuit establishment, where some most
+       benevolent old priests were teaching a large number of Malay
+       boys reading, writing, and geography. Then we went a little
+       further, and, in a small wooden house, under the cocoa
+       trees, at last found some of the little humming birds for
+       which the Malay Archipelago is famous. They glisten with a
+       marvellous metallic lustre all over their bodies, instead of
+       only in patches, as one sees upon those in South America and
+       the West Indies. The drive was intensely tropical in
+       character, until we reached the waterfall, where we left the
+       carriage and got into chairs, each carried by six coolies.
+       The scenery all about the waterfall is lovely, and a large
+       stream of sparkling, cool, clear water tumbling over the
+       rocks was most refreshing to look at. Many people who have
+       business in Penang live up here, riding up and down morning
+       and evening, for the sake of the cool, refreshing night air.
+       One of the most curious things in vegetation which strikes
+       our English eyes is the extraordinary abundance of the
+       sensitive plant. It is interwoven with all the grass, and
+       grows thickly in all the hedgerows. In the neatly kept turf,
+       round the Government bungalow, its long, creeping, prickly
+       stems, acacia-like leaves, and little fluffy mauve balls of
+       flowers are so numerous, that, walking up and down the
+       croquet lawn, it appears to be bowing before you, for the
+       delicate plants are sensible of even an approaching
+       footstep, and shut up and hide their tiny leaves among the
+       grass long before you really reach them.</p>
+
+    <p>From the top of the hill you can see ninety miles in the
+    clear atmosphere, far away across the Straits of Perak to the
+    mainland. We could not stay long, and were carried down the
+    hill backwards, as our bearers were afraid of our tumbling out
+    of the chairs if we travelled forwards. The tropical vegetation
+    is even more striking here, but, alas! it is already losing its
+    novelty to us. Those were indeed pleasant days when everything
+    was new and strange; it seems now <span class="pagenum">Page
+    422<a name="Page_422"
+       id="Page_422"></a></span>almost as if years, not months, had
+       gone past since we first entered these latitudes. We found
+       the carriage waiting for us when we arrived at the bottom of
+       the hill about seven o'clock, and it was not long before we
+       reached the town.</p>
+
+    <p>The glowworms and fireflies were numerous. The natives were
+    cooking their evening meal on the ground beneath the tall
+    palm-trees as we passed, with the glare of the fires lighting
+    up the picturesque huts, their dark figures relieved by their
+    white and scarlet turbans and waist-cloth. The whole scene put
+    us very much in mind of the old familiar pictures of India, the
+    lithe figures of the natives looking like beautiful bronze
+    statues, the rough country carts, drawn by buffaloes without
+    harness, but dragging by their hump, and driven by
+    black-skinned natives armed with a long goad. We went straight
+    to the jetty, and found to our surprise that in the roads there
+    was quite a breeze blowing, and a very strong tide running
+    against it, which made the sea almost rough.</p>
+
+    <p>Mrs. and Miss Anson, Mr. Talbot, and other friends, dined
+    with us. At eleven they landed, and we weighed anchor, and were
+    soon gliding through the Straits of Malacca, shaping for Acheen
+    Head, <i>en route</i> to Galle.</p>
+
+    <p>It seems strange that an important English settlement like
+    Penang, where so many large steamers and ships are constantly
+    calling, should be without lights or quarantine laws. We
+    afterwards learned on shore that the local government had
+    already surveyed and fixed a place for two leading lights. The
+    reason why no health officers came off to us this morning was
+    probably that, small-pox and cholera both being prevalent in
+    the town, they thought that the fewer questions they asked, and
+    the less they saw of incoming vessels, the better.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, March 23rd</i>.&mdash;A broiling day, everybody
+    panting, parrots and parrakeets dying. We passed a large barque
+    with every sail set, although it was a flat calm, which made us
+    rejoice in the possession of steam-power. Several
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 423<a name="Page_423"
+       id="Page_423"></a></span>people on board are very unwell,
+       and the engineer is really ill. It is depressing to
+       speculate what would become of us if anything went wrong in
+       the engine-room department, and if we should be reduced to
+       sail-power alone in this region of calmness. At last even I
+       know what it is to be too hot, and am quite knocked up with
+       my short experience.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_438"
+             id="Illus_438"></a> <img src="images/t_438.jpg"
+             width="229"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: How the Journal was written"
+             title="Illustration: How the Journal was written" /><br />
+        <b>How the Journal was written</b><br />
+        <a href="images/438.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, March 24th</i>.&mdash;Another flat calm. The
+    after-forecastle, having been battened down and fumigated for
+    the last seventy-two hours, was to-day opened, and its contents
+    brought up on deck, some to be thrown overboard, and others to
+    be washed with carbolic acid. I never saw such quantities of
+    things as were turned out; they covered the whole deck, and it
+    seemed as if their cubic capacity must
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 424<a name="Page_424"
+       id="Page_424"></a></span> be far greater than that of the
+       place in which they had been stowed. Besides the beds and
+       tables of eight men, there were forty-eight birds, four
+       monkeys, two cockatoos, and a tortoise, besides Japanese
+       cabinets and boxes of clothes, books, china, coral, shells,
+       and all sorts of imaginable and unimaginable things. One
+       poor tortoise had been killed and bleached white by the
+       chlorine gas.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, March 25th</i>.&mdash;Hotter than ever. It was
+    quite impossible to have service either on deck or below. We
+    always observe Sunday by showing a little extra attention to
+    dress, and, as far as the gentlemen are concerned, a little
+    more care in the matter of shaving. On other days I fear our
+    toilets would hardly pass muster in civilised society. Tom set
+    the example of leaving off collars, coats, and waistcoats; so
+    shirts and trousers are now the order of the day. The children
+    wear grass-cloth pinafores and very little else, no shoes or
+    stockings, Manilla or Chinese slippers being worn by those who
+    dislike bare feet. I find my Tahitian and Hawaiian dresses
+    invaluable: they are really cool, loose, and comfortable, and I
+    scarcely ever wear anything else.</p>
+
+    <p>We passed a large steamer about 7.30 a.m., and in the
+    afternoon altered our course to speak the 'Middlesex,' of
+    London, bound to the Channel for orders. We had quite a long
+    conversation with the captain, and parted with mutual good
+    wishes for a pleasant voyage. It was a lovely moonlight night,
+    but very hot, though we found a delightful sleeping-place
+    beneath the awning on deck.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, March 26th</i>.&mdash;The sun appeared to rise
+    even fiercer and hotter than ever this morning. I have been
+    very anxious for the last few days about Baby, who has been
+    cutting some teeth and has suffered from a rash. Muriel has
+    been bitten all over by mosquitoes, and Mabelle has also
+    suffered from heat-rash. Just now every little ailment suggests
+    small-pox to our minds.</p>
+
+    <p>About noon, when in latitude 6.25 North, and in longitude
+    88.25 East, we began to encounter a great deal of drift
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 425<a name="Page_425"
+       id="Page_425"></a></span>wood, many large trees, branches,
+       plants, leaves, nautilus shells, back-bones of cuttlefish,
+       and, in addition, large quantities of yellow spawn,
+       evidently deposited by some fish of large size. The spawn
+       appeared to be of a very solid, consistent character, like
+       large yellow grapes, connected together in a sort of
+       gelatinous mass. It formed a continuous wide yellow streak
+       perhaps half a mile in length, and with the bits of wood and
+       branches sticking up in its midst at intervals, it would not
+       have required a very lively imagination to fashion it at a
+       little distance into a sea serpent. Where does all this
+       <i>d&eacute;bris</i> come from? was the question asked by
+       everybody. Out of the Bay of Bengal probably, judging from
+       the direction of the current. We wondered if it could
+       possibly be the remains of some of the trees uprooted by the
+       last great cyclone.</p>
+
+    <p>At 1.30 p.m. a man cried out from the rigging, 'Boat on the
+    starboard bow!' a cry that produced great excitement
+    immediately; our course was altered and telescopes and glasses
+    brought to bear upon the object in question. Every one on
+    board, except our old sailing master, said it was a native
+    boat. Some even said that they could see a man on board waving
+    something. Powell alone declared it to be the root of a palm
+    from the Bay of Bengal, and he proved right. A very large root
+    it was, with one single stem and a few leaves hanging down,
+    which had exactly the appearance of broken masts, tattered
+    sails, and torn rigging. We went close alongside to have a good
+    look at it; the water was as clear as crystal, and beneath the
+    surface were hundreds of beautifully coloured fish, greedily
+    devouring something&mdash;I suppose small insects, or fish
+    entangled among the roots.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, March 27th</i>.&mdash;It requires a great effort
+    to do anything, except before sunrise or after sunset, owing to
+    the intense heat; and when one is not feeling well it makes
+    exertion still more difficult. At night the heat below is
+    simply unbearable; the cabins are deserted, and all mattresses
+    are brought up on deck.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 426<a name="Page_426"
+       id="Page_426"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XXV"
+       id="CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">CEYLON.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>Thus was this place</i><br /></span>
+            <span><i>A happy rural seat of various
+            views</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Groves whose rich
+            trees wept odorous gums and balm</i>,<br /></span>
+            <span><i>Others, whose fruit, burnish'd with golden
+            rind</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Hung amiable, Hesperian
+            fables true</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, March 28th</i>.&mdash;At midnight the wind was
+    slightly ahead, and we could distinctly smell the fragrant
+    breezes and spicy odours of Ceylon. We made the eastern side of
+    the island at daylight, and coasted along its palm-fringed
+    shores all day. I had been very unwell for some days past, but
+    this delightful indication of our near approach to the land
+    seemed to do me good at once. If only the interior is as
+    beautiful as what we can see from the deck of the yacht, my
+    expectations will be fully realised, brilliant as they are.</p>
+
+    <p>As the sun set, the beauty of the scene from the deck of the
+    yacht seemed to increase. We proceeded slowly, and at about
+    nine o'clock were in the roads of Galle and could see the ships
+    at anchor. Tom did not like to venture further in the dark
+    without a pilot, and accordingly told the signal-man to make
+    signals for one, but being impatient he sent up a rocket,
+    besides burning blue lights, a mistake which had the effect of
+    bringing the first officer of the P. and O. steamship 'Poonah'
+    on board, who thought perhaps we had got aground or were in
+    trouble of some sort. He also informed us that pilots never
+    came off after dark, and kindly offered to show us a good
+    anchorage for the night.<span class="pagenum">Page
+    427<a name="Page_427"
+       id="Page_427"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, March 29th</i>.&mdash;The pilot came off early,
+    and soon after six we dropped anchor in Galle harbour. The
+    entrance is fine, and the bay one of the most beautiful in the
+    world. The picturesque town, with its old buildings, and the
+    white surf dashing in among the splendid cocoa-trees which grow
+    down to the water's edge, combined to make up a charming
+    picture. We went on board the 'Poonah' to breakfast as
+    arranged, and afterwards all over the ship, which is in
+    splendid order. Thence we went ashore to the Oriental Company's
+    Hotel, a most comfortable building, with a large, shady
+    verandah, which to-day was crowded by passengers from the
+    'Poonah.' At tiffin there was a great crowd, and we met some
+    old friends. At three o'clock we returned to the yacht, to show
+    her to the captain of the 'Poonah' and some of his friends, and
+    an hour later we started in two carriages for a drive to
+    Wockwalla, a hill commanding a splendid view. The drive was
+    delightful, and the vegetation more beautiful than any we have
+    seen since leaving Tahiti, but it would have been more
+    enjoyable if we had not been so pestered by boys selling
+    flowers and bunches of mace in various stages of development.
+    It certainly is very pretty when the peach-like fruit is half
+    open and shows the network of scarlet mace surrounding the
+    brown nutmeg within. From Wockwalla the view is lovely, over
+    paddy-fields, jungle, and virgin forest, up to the hills close
+    by and to the mountains beyond. There is a small
+    refreshment-room at the top of the hill, kept by a nice little
+    mulatto woman and her husband. Here we drank lemonade, ate
+    mangoes, and watched the sun gradually declining, but we were
+    obliged to leave before it had set, as we wanted to visit the
+    cinnamon gardens on our way back. The prettiest thing in the
+    whole scene was the river running through the middle of the
+    landscape, and the white-winged, scarlet-bodied cranes,
+    disporting themselves along the banks among the dark green
+    foliage and light green shoots of the crimson-tipped
+    cinnamon-trees. We had a <span class="pagenum">Page
+    428<a name="Page_428"
+       id="Page_428"></a></span>glorious drive home along the
+       sea-shore under cocoa-nut trees, amongst which the fireflies
+       flitted, and through which we could see the red and purple
+       afterglow of the sunset. Ceylon is, as every one knows,
+       celebrated for its real gems, and almost as much for the
+       wonderful imitations offered for sale by the natives. Some
+       are made in Birmingham and exported, but many are made here
+       and in India, and are far better in appearance than ours, or
+       even those of Paris. More than once in the course of our
+       drive, half-naked Indians produced from their waist-cloths
+       rubies, sapphires, and emeralds for which they asked from
+       one to four thousand rupees, and gratefully took fourpence,
+       after a long run with the carriage, and much vociferation
+       and gesticulation. After <i>table-d'h&ocirc;te</i> dinner at
+       the hotel we went off to the yacht in a pilot boat; the
+       buoys were all illuminated, and boats with four or five men
+       in them, provided with torches, were in readiness to show us
+       the right way out. By ten o'clock we were outside the
+       harbour and on our way to Colombo.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, March 30th</i>.&mdash;It rained heavily during
+    the night, and we were obliged to sleep in the deck-house
+    instead of on deck. At daylight all was again bright and
+    beautiful, and the cocoanut-clad coast of Ceylon looked most
+    fascinating in the early morning light. About ten o'clock we
+    dropped our anchor in the harbour at Colombo, which was crowded
+    with shipping. 175,000 coolies have been landed here within the
+    last two or three months; consequently labour is very cheap
+    this year in the coffee plantations.</p>
+
+    <p>The instant we anchored we were of course surrounded by
+    boats selling every possible commodity and curiosity, carved
+    ebony, ivory, sandal-wood, and models of the curious boats in
+    use here. These boats are very long and narrow, with an
+    enormous outrigger and large sail, and when it is very rough,
+    nearly the whole of the crew of the boat go out one by one, and
+    sit on the outrigger to keep it in the water, from which
+    springs the Cingalese saying, 'One man, two men, four men
+    breeze.' The heat was intense, though there
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 429<a name="Page_429"
+       id="Page_429"></a></span>was a pleasant breeze under the
+       awning on deck; we therefore amused ourselves by looking
+       over the side and bargaining with the natives, until our
+       letters, which we had sent for, arrived. About one o'clock
+       we went ashore, encountering on our way some exceedingly
+       dreadful smells, wafted from ships laden with guano, bones,
+       and other odoriferous cargoes. The inner boat harbour is
+       unsavoury and unwholesome to the last degree, and is just
+       now crowded with many natives of various castes from the
+       south of India.</p>
+
+    <p>Colombo is rather a European-looking town, with fine
+    buildings and many open green spaces, where there were actually
+    soldiers playing cricket, with great energy, under the fierce
+    rays of the midday sun. We went at once to an hotel and rested;
+    loitering after tiffin in the verandah, which was as usual
+    crowded with sellers of all sorts of Indian things. Most of the
+    day was spent in driving about, and having made our
+    arrangements for an early start to-morrow, we then walked down
+    to the harbour, getting drenched on our way by a tremendous
+    thunderstorm.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, March 31st</i>.&mdash;Up early, and after
+    rather a scramble we went ashore at seven o'clock, just in time
+    to start by the first train to Kandy. There was not much time
+    to spare, and we therefore had to pay sovereigns for our
+    tickets instead of changing them for rupees, thereby receiving
+    only ten instead of eleven and a half, the current rate of
+    exchange that day. It seemed rather sharp practice on the part
+    of the railway company (<i>alias</i> the Government) to take
+    sovereigns in at the window at ten rupees, and sell them at the
+    door for eleven and a half, to speculators waiting ready and
+    eager to clutch and sell them again at an infinitesimally small
+    profit.</p>
+
+    <p>The line to Kandy is always described as one of the most
+    beautiful railways in the world, and it certainly deserves the
+    character. The first part of the journey is across jungle and
+    through plains; then one goes climbing up and up, looking down
+    on all the beauties of tropical vegetation,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 430<a name="Page_430"
+       id="Page_430"></a></span>to distant mountains shimmering in
+       the glare and haze of the burning sun. The carriages were
+       well ventilated and provided with double roofs, and were
+       really tolerably cool.</p>
+
+    <p>About nine o'clock we reached Ambepussa, and the scenery
+    increased in beauty from this point. A couple of hours later we
+    reached Peradeniya, the junction for Gampola. Here most of the
+    passengers got out, bound for Neuera-ellia, the sanatorium of
+    Ceylon, 7,000 feet above the sea. Soon after leaving the
+    station, we passed the Satinwood Bridge. Here we had a glimpse
+    of the botanical garden at Kandy, and soon afterwards reached
+    the station. We were at once rushed at by two telegraph boys,
+    each with a telegram of hospitable invitation, whilst a third
+    friend met us with his carriage, and asked us to go at once to
+    his house, a few miles out of Kandy. We hesitated to avail
+    ourselves of his kind offer, as we were such a large party; but
+    he insisted, and at once set off to make things ready for us,
+    whilst we went to breakfast and rest at a noisy, dirty, and
+    uncomfortable hotel. It was too hot to do anything except to
+    sit in the verandah and watch planter after planter come in for
+    an iced drink at the bar. The town is quite full for Easter,
+    partly for the amusements and partly for the Church services;
+    for on many of the coffee estates there is no church within a
+    reasonable distance.</p>
+
+    <p>About four o'clock the carriage came round for us, and
+    having despatched the luggage in a gharry, we drove round the
+    lovely lake, and so out to Peradeniya, where our friend lives,
+    close to the Botanic Gardens. Many of the huts and cottages by
+    the roadside have 'small-pox' written upon them in large
+    letters, in three languages, English, Sanscrit, and Cingalese,
+    a very sensible precaution, for the natives are seldom
+    vaccinated, and this terrible disease is a real scourge amongst
+    them. Having reached the charming bungalow, it was a real
+    luxury to lounge in a comfortable easy chair in a deep cool
+    verandah, and to <span class="pagenum">Page
+    431<a name="Page_431"
+       id="Page_431"></a></span>inhale the fragrance of the
+       flowers, whilst lazily watching the setting of the sun.
+       Directly it dipped below the horizon, glowworms and
+       fireflies came out, bright and numerous as though the stars
+       had come down to tread, or rather fly, a fairy dance among
+       the branches of the tall palm-trees high overhead. Our rooms
+       were most comfortable, and the baths delicious. After dinner
+       we all adjourned once more to the verandah to watch the
+       dancing fireflies, the lightning, and the heavy
+       thunderclouds, and enjoy the cool evening breeze. You in
+       England who have never been in the tropics cannot appreciate
+       the intense delight of that sensation. Then we went to bed,
+       and passed a most luxurious night of cool and comfortable
+       sleep, not tossing restlessly about, as we had been doing
+       for some time past.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, April 1st</i>.&mdash;I awoke before daylight. Our
+    bed faced the windows, which were wide open, without blinds,
+    curtains, or shutters, and I lay and watched the light
+    gradually creeping over the trees, landscape, and garden, and
+    the sun rising glorious from behind the distant mountains,
+    shining brightly into the garden, drawing out a thousand fresh
+    fragrances from every leaf and flower.</p>
+
+    <p>By seven o'clock we found ourselves enjoying an early tea
+    within the pretty bungalow in the centre of the Botanic
+    Gardens, and thoroughly appreciating delicious fresh butter and
+    cream, the first we have tasted for ages. We went for the most
+    delightful stroll afterwards, and saw for the first time many
+    botanical curiosities, and several familiar old friends growing
+    in greater luxuriance than our eyes are even yet accustomed to.
+    The groups of palms were most beautiful. I never saw anything
+    finer than the tallipot-palm, and the areca, with the
+    beetle-vine climbing round it; besides splendid specimens of
+    the kitool or jaggery-palm. Then there was the palmyra, which
+    to the inhabitant of the North of Ceylon is what the cocoa-nut
+    is to the inhabitant of the South&mdash;food, clothing, and
+    lodging. The pitcher-plants and the rare scarlet amherstia
+    looked lovely, as did also the <span class="pagenum">Page
+    432<a name="Page_432"
+       id="Page_432"></a></span>great groups of yellow and green
+       stemmed bamboos. There were magnolias, shaddocks, hibiscus,
+       the almost too fragrant yellow-flowered champac, sacred to
+       Hindoo mythology; nutmeg and cinnamon trees, tea and coffee,
+       and every other conceivable plant and tree, growing in the
+       wildest luxuriance. Through the centre of the gardens flows
+       the river Ambang Ganga, and the whole 140 acres are laid out
+       so like an English park that, were it not for the unfamiliar
+       foliage, you might fancy yourself at home.</p>
+
+    <p>We drove back to our host's to breakfast, and directly
+    afterwards started in two carriages to go to church at Kandy.
+    The church is a fine large building, lofty, and cool, and well
+    ventilated. This being Easter Sunday, the building was lavishly
+    decorated with palms and flowers. The service was well
+    performed, and the singing was excellent. The sparrows flew in
+    and out by the open doors and windows. One of the birds was
+    building a nest in a corner, and during the service she added
+    to it a marabout feather, a scrap of lace, and an end of pink
+    riband. It will be a curious nest when finished, if she adds at
+    this rate to her miscellaneous collection.</p>
+
+    <p>After church we walked to the Government House. Sir William
+    Gregory is, unfortunately for us, away in Australia, and will
+    not return till just after our departure. The entrance to it
+    was gay with gorgeous scarlet lilies, brought over by some
+    former Governor from South America. It is a very fine house,
+    but unfinished. We wandered through the 'banquet halls
+    deserted,' and then sat a little while in the broad cool airy
+    verandah looking into the beautiful garden and on to the
+    mountain beyond.</p>
+
+    <p>At half-past eleven it was time to leave this delightfully
+    cool retired spot, and to drive to a very pleasant luncheon,
+    served on a polished round walnut-wood table, without any
+    tablecloth, a novel and pretty plan in so hot a climate. As
+    soon as it became sufficiently cool we went on round the upper
+    lake and to the hills above, whence we
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 433<a name="Page_433"
+       id="Page_433"></a></span>looked down upon Kandy, one of the
+       most charmingly placed cities in the world. As we came back
+       we stopped for a few minutes at the Court, a very fair
+       specimen of florid Hindoo architecture, where the judges
+       sit, and justice of all kinds is administered, and where the
+       Prince of Wales held the installation of the Order of St.
+       Michael and St. George during his visit. We also looked in
+       at some of the bazaars, to examine the brass chatties and
+       straw-work. Then came another delicious rest in the verandah
+       among the flowers until it was time for dinner. Such flowers
+       as they are! The Cape jessamines are in full beauty just
+       now, and our host breaks off for us great branches laden
+       with the fragrant bloom.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, April 2nd</i>.&mdash;Before breakfast I took a
+    stroll all round the place, with our host, to look at his
+    numerous pets, which include spotted deer, monkeys, and all
+    sorts of other creatures. We also went to the stables, and saw
+    first the horses, and the horsekeepers with their pretty Indian
+    wives and children. Then we wandered down to the bamboo-fringed
+    shores of the river, which rises in the mountains here, and
+    flows right through the island to Trincomalee.</p>
+
+    <p>At eleven o'clock Tom and I said 'good-bye' to the rest of
+    the party, and went by train to Gampola, to take the coach to
+    Neuera-ellia, where we were to stay with an old friend. We went
+    only a dozen miles in the train, and then were turned out into
+    what is called a coach, but is really a very small rough
+    wagonnette, capable of holding six people with tolerable
+    comfort, but into which seven, eight, and even nine were
+    crammed. By the time the vehicle was fully laden, we found
+    there was positively no room for even the one box into which
+    Tom's things and my own had all been packed; so we had to take
+    out indispensable necessaries, and tie them up in a bundle like
+    true sailors out for a holiday, leaving our box behind, in
+    charge of the station-master, until our return. The first part
+    of <span class="pagenum">Page 434<a name="Page_434"
+       id="Page_434"></a></span> the drive was not very
+       interesting, the road passing only through paddy-fields and
+       endless tea and coffee plantations. We reached Pusillawa
+       about two o'clock, where we found a rough and ready sort of
+       breakfast awaiting us. Thence we had a steep climb through
+       some of the finest coffee estates in Ceylon, belonging to
+       the Rothschilds, until we reached Rangbodde. Here there was
+       another delay of half an hour; but although we were anxious
+       to get on, to arrive in time for dinner, it was impossible
+       to regret stopping amidst this lovely scenery. The house
+       which serves as a resting-place is a wretched affair, but
+       the view from the verandah in front is superb. A large river
+       falls headlong over the steep wall of rock, forming three
+       splendid waterfalls, which, uniting and rushing under a fine
+       one-arched bridge, complete this scene of beauty and
+       grandeur.</p>
+
+    <p>We were due at Neuera-ellia at six, but we had only one pair
+    of horses to drag our heavy load up the steep mountain road,
+    and the poor creatures jibbed, kicked over the traces, broke
+    them three times, and more than once were so near going over
+    the edge of the precipice that I jumped out, and the other
+    passengers, all gentlemen, walked the whole of that stage. The
+    next was no better, the fresh pair of horses jibbing and
+    kicking worse than ever. At last one kicked himself free of all
+    the harness, and fell on his back in a deep ditch. If it had
+    not been so tiresome, it really would have been very laughable,
+    especially as everybody was more or less afraid of the poor
+    horse's heels, and did not in the least know how to extricate
+    him.</p>
+
+    <p>In this dilemma our hunting experiences came in usefully,
+    for with the aid of a trace, instead of a stirrup leather,
+    passed round his neck, half-a-dozen men managed to haul the
+    horse on to his legs again; but the pitchy darkness rendered
+    the repair of damages an exceedingly difficult task. The
+    horses, moreover, even when once more in their proper position,
+    declined to move, but the gentlemen pushed and the drivers
+    flogged and shouted, <span class="pagenum">Page
+    435<a name="Page_435"
+       id="Page_435"></a></span>and very slowly and with many stops
+       we ultimately reached the end of that stage. Here we found a
+       young horse, who had no idea at all of harness; so after a
+       vain attempt to utilise his services, another was sent for,
+       thus causing further delay.</p>
+
+    <p>It was now nine o'clock, and we were all utterly exhausted.
+    We managed to procure from a cottage some new-laid eggs and
+    cold spring water, and these eaten raw, with a little brandy
+    from a hunting-flask, seemed to refresh us all. There was again
+    a difficulty in starting, but, once fairly under way, the road
+    was not so steep and the horses went better. I was now so
+    tired, and had grown so accustomed to hairbreadth escapes,
+    that, however near we went to the edge of the precipice, I did
+    not feel capable of jumping out, but sat still and watched
+    listlessly, wondering whether we should really go over or not.
+    After many delays we reached Head-quarter House, where the
+    warmth of the welcome our old friend gave us soon made us
+    forget how tired we were. They had waited dinner until
+    half-past seven, and had then given us up. There were blazing
+    wood fires both in the drawing-room and in our bedroom, and in
+    five minutes a most welcome dinner was put before us.
+    Afterwards we could have stayed and chatted till midnight, but
+    we were promptly sent off to bed, and desired to reserve the
+    rest of our news until morning.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, April 3rd</i>.&mdash;A ten o'clock breakfast
+    afforded us ample opportunity for a delicious rest and
+    letter-writing beforehand. Afterwards we strolled round the
+    garden, full of English flowers, roses, carnations, mignonette,
+    and sweet peas. Tom and the gentlemen went for a walk, whilst
+    we ladies rested and chatted and wrote letters.</p>
+
+    <p>After lunch we all started&mdash;a large party&mdash;to go
+    to the athletic sports on the racecourse, where an impromptu
+    sort of grand stand had been erected&mdash;literally a stand,
+    for there were no seats. There were a great many people, and
+    the regimental band played very well. To us it appeared a
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 436<a name="Page_436"
+       id="Page_436"></a></span>warm damp day, although the weather
+       was much cooler than any we have felt lately. This is
+       <i>the</i> week of the year, and everybody is here from all
+       parts of the island. People who have been long resident in
+       the tropics seem to find it very cold; for the men wore
+       great-coats and ulsters, and many of the ladies velvet and
+       sables, or sealskin jackets. On the way back from the sports
+       we drove round to see something of the settlement; it cannot
+       be called a town, for though there are a good many people
+       and houses, no two are within half a mile of one another.
+       There are two packs of hounds kept here, one to hunt the big
+       elk, the other a pack of harriers. The land-leeches, which
+       abound in this neighbourhood, are a great plague to horses,
+       men, and hounds. It rained last night, and I was specially
+       cautioned not to go on the grass or to pick flowers, as
+       these horrid creatures fix on one's ankle or arm without the
+       slightest warning. I have only seen one, I am thankful to
+       say, and have escaped a bite; but everybody seems to dread
+       and dislike them.</p>
+
+    <p>After dinner we went to a very pleasant ball, given by the
+    Jinkhana Club, at the barracks. The room was prettily decorated
+    with the racing jackets and caps of the riders in the races,
+    and with scarlet wreaths of geranium and hibiscus mingled with
+    lycopodium ferns and selaginella. We did not remain very late
+    at the ball, as we had to make an early start next morning; but
+    the drive home in the moonlight was almost as pleasant as any
+    part of the entertainment.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, April 4th</i>.&mdash;We were called at four
+    o'clock, and breakfasted at five, everybody appearing either in
+    dressing-gowns or in habits to see us set off. They all tried
+    to persuade us to stay for the meet of the hounds at the house
+    to-day. Another ball to-night, and more races, and another ball
+    to-morrow; but we are homeward bound, and must hurry on. It was
+    a lovely morning, and we waited with great patience at the
+    post-house for at least an <span class="pagenum">Page
+    437<a name="Page_437"
+       id="Page_437"></a></span>hour and a half, and watched the
+       hounds come out, meet, find, and hunt a hare up and down,
+       and across the valley, with merry ringing notes that made us
+       long to be on horseback.</p>
+
+    <p>We saw all the racehorses returning from their morning
+    gallop, and were enlightened by the syces as to their names and
+    respective owners. There were several people, a great deal of
+    luggage, and, though last not least, Her Majesty's mails, all
+    waiting, like us, for the coach. About a quarter to seven a
+    message arrived, to the effect that the horses would <i>not</i>
+    come up the hill, they had been jibbing for more than an hour,
+    so would we kindly go down to the coach. A swarm of coolies
+    immediately appeared from some mysterious hiding-place, and
+    conveyed us all, bag and baggage, down the hill, and packed us
+    into the coach. Even this concession on our part did not induce
+    the horses to make up their minds to move for at least another
+    quarter of an hour. Then we had to stop at the hotel to pick up
+    somebody else; but at last we had fairly started, eleven people
+    in all, some inside and some perched on a box behind. The
+    horses were worse than ever, tired to death, poor things; and
+    as one lady passenger was very nervous and insisted on walking
+    up all the acclivities, we were obliged to make up our pace
+    down the hills. The Pass looked lovely by daylight, and the
+    wild flowers were splendid, especially the white datura and
+    scarlet rhododendron trees, which were literally covered with
+    bloom.</p>
+
+    <p>By daylight, the appearance of the horses was really
+    pitiable in the extreme&mdash;worn-out, half-starved wretches,
+    covered with wounds and sores from collars and harness, and
+    with traces of injuries they inflict on themselves in their
+    struggles to get free. When once we had seen their shoulders,
+    we no longer wondered at their reluctance to start; it really
+    made one quite sick to think even of the state they were
+    in.<span class="pagenum">Page 438<a name="Page_438"
+       id="Page_438"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>If some of the permanent officials were to devote a portion
+    of their time to endeavours to introduce American coaches, and
+    to ameliorate the condition of the horses on this road, they
+    would indeed confer a boon on their countrymen. The coachman,
+    who was as black as jet, and who wore very little clothing, was
+    a curious specimen of his class, and appeared by no means
+    skilled in his craft. He drove the whole way down the steep
+    zigzag road with a loose rein; at every turn the horses went
+    close to the precipice, but were turned in the very nick of
+    time by a little black boy who jumped down from behind and
+    pulled them round by their traces without touching the bridle.
+    We stopped at Rangbodde to breakfast, and again at Pusillawa.
+    This seemed a bad arrangement, for we were already late; it
+    resulted in the poor horses having to be unmercifully flogged
+    in order to enable us to catch the train at Gampola, failing
+    which, the coach proprietors would have had to pay a very heavy
+    penalty.</p>
+
+    <p>From Gampola we soon arrived at Peradeniya, where we met Mr.
+    Freer, who was going down to Colombo. Tom had decided
+    previously to go straight on, so as to have the yacht quite
+    ready for an early start to-morrow. I in the meantime went to
+    our former hosts for one night to pick up Mabelle and the waifs
+    and strays of luggage.</p>
+
+    <p>On my way from the station to the house, going over the
+    Satinwood Bridge, from which there is a lovely view of the
+    Peacock Mountain, I saw an Englishman whom we had observed
+    before, washing stones in the bed of the river for gems. He has
+    obtained some rubies and sapphires, though only of small size,
+    and I suppose he will go on washing for ever, hoping to find
+    something larger and more valuable. On one part of the coast of
+    the island near Managgan the sands on the side of one of the
+    rivers are formed of rubies, sapphires, garnets, and other
+    precious stones washed down by the current, but they are all
+    ground to pieces in the process, not one being left as big
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 439<a name="Page_439"
+       id="Page_439"></a></span>as a pin's head. The effect in the
+       sunlight, when this sand is wet with the waves, is something
+       dazzling, and proves that the accounts of my favourite
+       Sindbad are not so fabulous as we prosaic mortals try to
+       make out. The island must be rich in gems, for they seem to
+       be picked up with hardly any trouble. At Neuera-ellia it is
+       a favourite amusement for picnic parties to go out
+       gem-hunting, and frequently they meet with very large and
+       valuable stones by the riverside or near deserted pits,
+       large garnets, cinnamon-stone, splendid cat's-eyes,
+       amethysts, matura diamonds, moonstone, aquamarine,
+       tourmaline rubies, and sapphires.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_454"
+             id="Illus_454"></a> <img src="images/t_454.jpg"
+             width="232"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Peacock Mountain, Ceylon"
+             title="Illustration: Peacock Mountain, Ceylon" /><br />
+        <b>Peacock Mountain, Ceylon</b><br />
+        <a href="images/454.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 440<a name="Page_440"
+       id="Page_440"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>On my arrival at the house I found that Mabelle had just
+    returned with some friends, who had kindly taken charge of her
+    during our absence, and that a very old friend had arrived
+    almost directly we left on Monday, and had departed early this
+    morning to climb Adam's Peak, the ascent of which is a long and
+    tedious affair, but it cannot be difficult, as thousands of
+    aged and infirm pilgrims go every year to worship at the
+    Buddhist or Mohammedan temples at the summit. The giant
+    footprint has been reverenced alike by both religions from the
+    earliest ages. Its existence is differently accounted for,
+    however, by the two sects. The Buddhists say it is the
+    footprint of Buddha, and that an account of its origin was
+    written 300 or 400 years B.C. The Mohammedans say that it is
+    the first step Adam took when driven out of Paradise. They do
+    not quarrel about it, however, but live very happily close
+    beside one another in their respective temples on the very
+    small summit of the mountain. The iron chains, still used by
+    the pilgrims and visitors to assist them up the last weary
+    flight of steps, are said to have been placed there in the time
+    of Alexander the Great, and are mentioned by successive
+    historians.</p>
+
+    <p>After lunch I went to rest, thoroughly tired out with the
+    hard work of the last two days, whilst the gentlemen went into
+    Kandy, to see Buddha's tooth and a Brahmin temple.</p>
+
+    <p>Just before sunset we went to have a last look at those
+    lovely Botanical Gardens. They were more beautiful than ever in
+    the afternoon light, and I saw many things which had escaped my
+    notice before. I have made acquaintance with the taste of all
+    sorts of new fruits while here, more than in our former
+    journey; but this is to be explained by the proximity of the
+    Botanical Gardens. I expected to revel in fruit all through the
+    tropics, but, except at Tahiti, we have not done so at all.
+    There is one great merit in tropical fruit, which is, that
+    however hot the sun may be, when plucked from the tree it is
+    always icy cold; if left for <span class="pagenum">Page
+    441<a name="Page_441"
+       id="Page_441"></a></span>a few minutes, however, it becomes
+       as hot as the surrounding atmosphere, and the charm is
+       gone.</p>
+
+    <p>On my return, when I went to dress for dinner, I found on my
+    table a nasty-looking black beast about six inches long. It
+    looked very formidable in the half-light, like a scorpion or
+    centipede. It turned out, however, to be quite harmless, and a
+    sort of millipede, and rather handsome, with jet-black rings,
+    and hundreds of orange-coloured legs. There are a great many
+    venomous snakes in Ceylon, but they always get out of the way
+    as fast as they can, and never bite Europeans. All the roofs of
+    the thatched bungalows swarm with rats, and in every house is
+    kept a rat-snake, which kills and eats these rats. I more than
+    once heard a great scuffle going on over my bedroom, which
+    generally ended in a little squeak, indicating that the snake
+    had killed, and was about to eat, his prey. One of the snakes
+    came out one day in front of my window, and hung down two or
+    three feet from the roof. If I had not been previously assured
+    that he was perfectly harmless, it would have been rather an
+    alarming apparition in the dark, and, even as it was, I must
+    confess that for a moment I did feel rather frightened as I
+    watched him spying about, darting his forked tongue in and out,
+    and looking quite ready for a spring at my face.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, April 5th</i>.&mdash;Another early start by the
+    seven o'clock train to Colombo. We were very sorry to say
+    good-bye to our kind host, and when we took our departure, we
+    were quite laden with flowers, good wishes, and messages for
+    mutual friends in England. It was rather a hot journey down,
+    and the train seemed full, but the scenery was lovely. As we
+    approached Colombo the heat became greater, and in the town
+    itself it was almost insupportable.</p>
+
+    <p>We breakfasted at the hotel in the fort, where we were
+    joined by Tom. There is one very curious thing about the hotels
+    here. The sitting-rooms are all two stories high, with pointed
+    raftered roofs. The bedrooms are only
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 442<a name="Page_442"
+       id="Page_442"></a></span>screened off from each other, and
+       from the central room, by partitions eight or ten feet high,
+       so that you can hear everything going on from end to end of
+       the building. I am not at all sure that the larger amount of
+       ventilation secured by this plan compensates for the extra
+       amount of noise and want of privacy, especially when, as was
+       the case to-day, there is a crying baby who refuses to be
+       pacified in one of the rooms, a poor little girl ill with
+       whooping cough in another, and some very noisy people, who
+       are making themselves both unhappy and cross over some lost
+       keys, in a third.</p>
+
+    <p>While we were at breakfast the crows were most amusing and
+    impertinent. Every door and window was open, and they were
+    perched on the top of the punkah, or on the iron crossbars
+    supporting the roof, watching their opportunity to pounce down
+    and carry off the bits left on our plates. They did not seem to
+    mind the waiters a bit, and, with their heads cocked on one
+    side, looked as droll and saucy as possible. People tell you
+    all sorts of funny stories about them; but though they are very
+    entertaining to watch, and apparently perfectly tame, it
+    appears to be impossible to capture one alive.</p>
+
+    <p>By the time breakfast was over, we found that the 'Sunbeam'
+    was already under way, and steaming about the anchorage; so it
+    was not long before we were once more on board. Going out of
+    harbour we passed a large steamer whose passengers and crew
+    cheered us and waved their handkerchiefs until we were out of
+    sight, and with that pleasant homely sound ringing in our ears
+    we bade a last farewell to Colombo, and started on another
+    stage of our homeward voyage. The heat was intense, and there
+    was a roll outside which at once made me feel very
+    uncomfortable. There was no wind all the afternoon, and the sun
+    sank into the sea, glorious and golden, as we took our last
+    look at the lovely island of Ceylon, the land of spice and
+    fragrance and beauty.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 443<a name="Page_443"
+       id="Page_443"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XXVI"
+       id="CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">TO ADEN.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>Heaven speed the canvas, gallantly
+            unfurled</i><br /></span> <span><i>To furnish and
+            accommodate a world</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>To give
+            the Pole the produce of the sun</i>,<br /></span>
+            <span><i>And knit the unsocial climates into
+            one</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, April 6th</i>.&mdash;Our visit to Ceylon has been
+    so delightful that I wish it could have been prolonged for a
+    month, instead of lasting only a week; but in that case I
+    should have preferred to select a cooler season of the year,
+    when travelling is more practicable. A most interesting journey
+    could be made through the centre of the island to see the
+    ancient cities, temples, and tanks, over the road from Matelle
+    to Nalandi Senadoora, to the curious rock temple at Dambool,
+    near which is the fortified rock of Sigiri, and a few miles
+    further are the vast ruins of Topari, or Ponamira, the
+    medi&aelig;val capital of Ceylon. It is full of wonderful
+    ruins, some of them among the oldest in the world. The Ranhol
+    Dagoba, the Jayti Wana Rama, and the Galle Wihara and rock
+    temple, carved out of the living rock, are alone worth a long
+    journey to see. Then think of visiting Anajapoora, the city of
+    rubies, the sacred capital of the kingdom of ruins, on whose
+    splendours even the Chinese travellers of the early ages used
+    to expatiate with fervour. From this point it would be easy to
+    reach the peninsula of Jaffna, which has been peopled with
+    Tammils for more than two thousand years. It is the country
+    <i>par excellence</i> of gardens exquisitely kept, and
+    skilfully irrigated on the <span class="pagenum">Page
+    444<a name="Page_444"
+       id="Page_444"></a></span>old Moorish system. Here are grown
+       all the ingredients for the making of curry, which are sent
+       to all parts of this island and to Southern India. The most
+       important crop of all, however, is tobacco, whose excellence
+       is famed throughout India, and of which the Rajah of
+       Travancore holds the monopoly.</p>
+
+    <p>Then one might go southward from Jaffna, past Aripo, and the
+    Gulf of Calpentyn, until the curious reef of Adam's Bridge was
+    reached, which almost connects Ceylon with India. People say it
+    has been separated by some convulsion of nature in former days,
+    and that the passage is gradually deepening; but recent
+    examinations have shown that instead of being a remnant of the
+    original rock by which Ceylon is supposed to have been once
+    connected with the Indian continent, it is in reality a
+    comparatively recent ridge of conglomerate and ironstone,
+    covered with alluvial deposits carried by the current and
+    heaped up at this particular point; whilst the gradual rising
+    of the coast has contributed to give the reef its present
+    altitude.</p>
+
+    <p>Balchus tells a most improbable story of fifteen Portuguese
+    frigates escaping through the passage of Panupam, when pursued
+    by some Dutch cruisers in 1557. Formerly the Straits were only
+    thirty-five yards wide, with a maximum depth of six feet of
+    water, but lately they have been widened and deepened by ten
+    feet, and a little Government steamer frequently passes through
+    on a tour round the island. At present a sailing ship going
+    from Bombay to Madras has to make a curve of five thousand
+    miles in order to weather the Maldives and Ceylon. It seems a
+    long course for any vessel drawing over ten feet of water to be
+    obliged to take.</p>
+
+    <p>In the centre of the channel there is a little island where
+    a Dutch establishment for horse-breeding formerly stood, the
+    original stud having been imported from Arabia. The horses were
+    all turned into corrals and caught by means of lassos, and then
+    conquered by domidores, exactly as they are at the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 445<a name="Page_445"
+       id="Page_445"></a></span>present day in South America. Now
+       the stud is dispersed, the buildings are in ruins, and all
+       that remains is the Indian pagoda, where religious
+       ceremonies, curious processions, and dances of nautch-girls
+       occasionally take place and are attended by great crowds. To
+       the southward again of Adam's Bridge is the celebrated Gulf
+       of Manaar, from which the best pearls come.</p>
+
+    <p>This is an exceptionally good year for pearls, and the price
+    of the shells went up many rupees per thousand in the first
+    week. The pearl fishery can be reached in about eight hours by
+    steam from Colombo, and it would have been delightful to have
+    visited it, had time permitted. We were shown an oyster with
+    some beautiful pearls in it, all found in the one shell. When a
+    boat with pearls reaches the shore, the shells are divided into
+    equal heaps, one-fourth going to the boat's crew, and
+    three-fourths to the Government Inspector. They keep whichever
+    heap he chooses to kick; so that, being uncertain which they
+    will get for themselves, the boat's crew are sure to make a
+    fair division. These heaps are then divided and sold by auction
+    in thousands, and then subdivided again and again. Of course it
+    is always a matter of speculation as to whether you get good
+    pearls, bad pearls, or no pearls at all, though this last
+    misfortune seldom happens.</p>
+
+    <p>The love of gambling is inherent in every Oriental mind, and
+    the merest beggar with but a few pice in his wallet to buy his
+    daily food will invest them in a small number of oyster-shells,
+    hoping to find a pearl of great value; and, should he fail to
+    do so, he contents himself with eating the oyster and hoping
+    for better luck next time. The shells are generally left on the
+    sand in carefully guarded heaps till they die and open, when
+    the pearls are extracted, and the fish left to decay. Some of
+    the oysters are taken in sealed-up sacks to Colombo, Kandy, and
+    other inland places, in order to enable people to indulge their
+    love of gambling and speculation, without the trouble of a
+    journey <span class="pagenum">Page 446<a name="Page_446"
+       id="Page_446"></a></span>to Manaar. Though called oysters,
+       they are not the proper oyster, but a sort of avicula
+       (<i>Meleagrina margaritifera</i> being the name given by
+       Samarik), very different from the large mother-of-pearl
+       shells in which the South Sea pearls are found.</p>
+
+    <p>I have not been able to keep my mind from running
+    incessantly on Sir Emerson Tennent's delightful book on Ceylon,
+    which describes places we have not ourselves visited, but which
+    I wanted very much to see, and I have been so interested
+    reading about them that I cannot help thinking other people
+    will share my feelings. It seems wonderful that so much which
+    is strange, beautiful, and interesting should be so easy of
+    access from England, and yet that so few English travellers
+    know comparatively anything of Ceylon, except Galle and
+    Colombo, and perhaps Kandy and Trincomalee.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, April 7th</i>.&mdash;To-day we passed close to
+    the island of Minnikoy, between the groups of islands called
+    the Laccadives and Maldives, some of which we saw dotting the
+    horizon; and still further to the south stretches the Chagos
+    Archipelago. It was very hot all day, with hardly a breath of
+    air, and we have all returned to our former light and airy
+    costumes: the gentlemen to their shirts and trousers, the
+    children to their pinafores and nothing else, and I to my
+    beloved Tahitian dresses.</p>
+
+    <p>Before we left England we could not make ourselves believe
+    what we were told about heat in the tropics; so we started with
+    very few windsails and without any punkahs or double awnings.
+    It was all very well in the Atlantic or Pacific, but between
+    Hongkong and Singapore the state of things became simply
+    unbearable. The carpenter has rigged up a punkah, and the men
+    have improvised some double awnings. At Colombo they made some
+    windsails, so we are now better off than on our last hot
+    voyage. It has been really hotter than ever to-day, but a
+    pleasant breeze sprang up in the afternoon.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 447<a name="Page_447"
+       id="Page_447"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, April 8th</i>.&mdash;A delightful fresh morning
+    after a cool night. Everybody looks quite different, and we
+    begin to hope we shall carry the north-east monsoon right
+    across, which would be an exceptional piece of good fortune. We
+    had service in the saloon at eleven o'clock and at four, and
+    though there was an unusually full attendance it was cool and
+    pleasant even without the punkah. The thermometer registers
+    nearly the same as it did on Friday, when we were all dead with
+    the heat. The apparently nice cool breeze that refreshes our
+    heated bodies does not produce any corresponding effect on the
+    glassy surface of the ocean; for we find to-day, as on previous
+    occasions, that the temperature, both of the water and of the
+    air, registered by the thermometer, does not by any means
+    correspond with the effect on the human frame.</p>
+
+    <p>The two Chinese servants we shipped at Hongkong are a great
+    success, as every one on board agrees. Even the old sailing
+    master is obliged to confess that the two 'heathen Chinee' keep
+    the mess rooms, ships' officers' and servants' berths much
+    cleaner and more comfortable than his own sailors ever
+    succeeded in doing. At Galle we shipped three black firemen,
+    two from Bombay and one from Mozambique, a regular nigger, with
+    his black woolly hair clipped into the shape of Prince of Wales
+    feathers. Their names are Mahomet, Abraham, and Tom Dollar.
+    They live in a little tent we have had pitched for them on
+    deck, cook their own food, and do their work in the engine-room
+    exceedingly well. In the intervals they are highly amused with
+    the children's picture books. The picture of the durbar at
+    Delhi delighted them, especially as they recognised the
+    figures, and learned a little English through them. They can
+    say a few words already, and have told me all about their wives
+    and children at Mozambique and Bombay, and have shown me the
+    presents they are taking home to them. They have been nearly a
+    year on board the P. and O. steamship 'Poonah,' and appear to
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 448<a name="Page_448"
+       id="Page_448"></a></span>have saved nearly all their
+       earnings. I do not suppose our own men could have stood the
+       fearful heat below in the engine-room for many days
+       together, so it was fortunate we met with these amiable
+       salamanders.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, April, 9th</i>.&mdash;No wind. We passed through
+    a large shoal of porpoises, and at dusk we saw the light of a
+    distant ship. At all the places we have recently visited we
+    have found excellent ice-making machines, and have been able to
+    get a sufficient supply to last us from port to port, which has
+    been a great comfort. The machine at Colombo unfortunately
+    broke down the day before we left, so that in the very hottest
+    part of our voyage we have had to do without our accustomed
+    luxury; and very much we miss it, not only for cooling our
+    drinks, but for keeping provisions, &amp;c. As it is, a sheep
+    killed overnight is not good for dinner next day; butter is
+    just like oil, and to-day in opening a drawer my fingers
+    touched a sticky mess; I looked and discovered six sticks of
+    sealing wax running slowly about in a state resembling
+    treacle.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, April 11th</i>.&mdash;Hotter than ever. We
+    could see a steamer in the far distance. About sunset we passed
+    through a shoal of flying-fish; the night was intensely hot,
+    and everybody slept on deck.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, April 13th</i>.&mdash;At 6 a.m. we made the
+    island of Sokotra, and about seven o'clock saw 'The Brothers,'
+    two islands where large quantities of turtle and ambergris are
+    found. Though generally uninhabited, they are sometimes visited
+    by the natives for the purpose of collecting articles of
+    commerce.</p>
+
+    <p>One of our large pigs took it into his head to jump
+    overboard to-day. The helm was put round as quickly as
+    possible, but the most anxious spying could not discover any
+    trace of poor piggy's whereabouts; so we proceeded on our
+    original course for a few minutes, when suddenly, to our great
+    astonishment, we saw him alongside, having been nearly run
+    down, but still gallantly swimming along. The dingy
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 449<a name="Page_449"
+       id="Page_449"></a></span>was lowered and two men sent in
+       pursuit. They had, however, no easy task before them, for as
+       soon as they approached, piggy swam away faster than they
+       could row, and bit and fought most furiously when they tried
+       to get him into the boat. It was a good half-hour's work
+       before he was secured, yet when he arrived he did not appear
+       to be in the least exhausted by his long swim, but bit and
+       barked at everybody so furiously that he was condemned to
+       death, to prevent the possibility of further accidents. It
+       is quite clear from the foregoing incident that some pigs
+       can swim, and swim very well too, without cutting their own
+       throats in the process.</p>
+
+    <p>All the afternoon a large steamer had been gradually gaining
+    on us. We exchanged signals and made out that she was the
+    'Calypso' (?) of Glasgow. About half-past five she altered her
+    course and came alongside to speak us. The fore-deck was
+    crowded with the crew. On the bridge were many of the officers;
+    and sitting bolt upright on a stool, 'looking out forward' in
+    the most amusing manner, was the captain's little Skye terrier.
+    The stern was crowded with passengers, of every shade of
+    colour. To our surprise a voice from among them shouted out
+    'Three cheers for Mr. Brassey!' which was responded to by
+    ringing shouts from all on board, and taken up again by some of
+    our own men. It was a very pleasant and unexpected greeting to
+    hear in the middle of the Indian Ocean. The ship soon drew
+    ahead again, but handkerchiefs and caps were waved till their
+    owners faded away into the distance. Meeting and passing
+    thousands of people as you at home do daily, you can hardly
+    understand the excitement a little incident like this causes on
+    board ship, where even a distant sail in these lonely oceans
+    makes everybody leave his occupation and crowd to look at her.
+    Soon after sunset we saw the island of Abd-al-Kuri, with its
+    fantastic peaks, melting into orange, gold, and purple tints,
+    beneath the gorgeous Arabian afterglow.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 450<a name="Page_450"
+       id="Page_450"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, April 14th</i>.&mdash;We made Cape Rasalhir,
+    formerly called Guardafui, about nine o'clock yesterday
+    evening, and passing it during the night entered the Gulf of
+    Aden<a name="FNanchor_21_21"
+       id="FNanchor_21_21">.</a> <a href="#Footnote_21_21"
+       class="fnanchor">[21]</a> All to-day we have been going
+       along the Soumali coast. There is a good deal of trade
+       carried on in native boats. Passing all these strange and
+       comparatively unknown and little-visited islands and coasts,
+       from which all sorts of things in daily use at home are
+       brought, one dimly realises what commerce means and how
+       necessary one part of the world is to the other.</p>
+
+    <div class="footnote">
+        <p><a name="Footnote_21_21"
+           id="Footnote_21_21"></a>
+           <a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a>
+           We found considerable difficulty in making the light,
+           and since our return there have been several wrecks, and
+           many lives lost, on this dangerous point.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, April 15th</i>.&mdash;Still intensely hot. The
+    usual services were held on deck at eleven and four o'clock.
+    The land, both in Arabia and in Africa, could be seen the whole
+    day, with precipitous mountains. In the afternoon we could make
+    out the rock of Aden, and at sunset it stood grandly forth,
+    looming in purple darkness against the crimson and blood-red
+    sky, which gradually faded to tenderest tints of yellow and
+    green, before it finally blazed forth into a radiant afterglow.
+    At half-past eight a gun from the fort at Aden summoned us to
+    show our colours, or rather lights. At nine o'clock we dropped
+    our anchor in the roads; a boat came off with a bag of
+    newspapers and to ask for orders in the morning. It was sent by
+    the great Parsee merchants here, who undertake to supply us
+    with coals, provisions, water, and everything we want, and
+    spare us all trouble. For the last three or four days we have
+    had a nice little breeze astern, and if we had not been in a
+    hurry to cross the Indian Ocean before the south-west monsoon
+    set in, we should certainly have been contented with four or
+    five knots an hour under sail instead of eight and a half under
+    steam. We have averaged over 200 miles a day under steam alone,
+    ever since we left Penang, and have burnt only four tons of
+    coal for every fifty miles.<span class="pagenum">Page
+    451<a name="Page_451"
+       id="Page_451"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, April 16th</i>.&mdash;At 1.30 a.m. I heard the
+    signal gun fired, and shortly afterwards a great splash of
+    boats and oars, and a vast chattering and shouting of tongues
+    announced the arrival of a P. and O. steamer. She dropped her
+    anchor just outside us, so we had the benefit of the noise all
+    night. I got up at daylight and found the pilot just coming
+    off. He took us to a buoy, a little closer in, and soon the
+    business of coaling and watering commenced.</p>
+
+    <div class="figright">
+        <a name="Illus_466"
+             id="Illus_466"></a> <img src="images/t_466.gif"
+             width="150"
+             height="360"
+             alt="Illustration: Soumali Indian, Aden"
+             title="Illustration: Soumali Indian, Aden" /><br />
+        <b>Soumali Indian, Aden</b><br />
+        <a href="images/466.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We reached the shore about 7.30, and, landing at the pier,
+    had our first near view of the natives, who are most
+    curious-looking creatures. They have very black complexions,
+    and long woolly hair, setting out like a mop all round, and
+    generally dyed bright red, or yellow by the application of
+    lime. Mr. Cowajee had sent his own private carriage to meet us.
+    It was a comfortable open barouche, with a pair of nice horses,
+    and two servants in Eastern liveries, green vests and full
+    trousers, and red and orange turbans. We went first to his
+    store, which seemed to be an emporium for every conceivable
+    article. There was carved sandal-wood, and embroidered shawls
+    from China, Surat, and Gujerat, work from India, English
+    medicines, French lamps, Swiss clocks, German toys, Russian
+    caviare, Greek lace, Havannah cigars, American hides and canned
+    fruits, besides many other things. The feathers did not look
+    very tempting; there was a great deal of feather and very
+    little stem about most of them, and only a few were white, the
+    majority being a pretty sort of brown and drab. But this
+    general store is <span class="pagenum">Page
+    452<a name="Page_452"
+       id="Page_452"></a></span>only a very small part of their
+       business, for about 60,000 tons of coal pass through their
+       hands every year.</p>
+
+    <p>We went on to the H&ocirc;tel de l'Europe, which was by no
+    means in first-rate order, but allowances must be made for a
+    new house. A delightful breeze was blowing in through the open
+    windows, and although the thermometer registered 85&deg; in the
+    dining-room, it did not seem at all hot. The view over the bay
+    is very pretty, and the scene on shore thoroughly Arabian, with
+    the donkeys and camels patiently carrying their heavy loads,
+    guided by the true Bedaween of the desert, and people of all
+    tinges of complexion, from jet black to pale copper colour. A
+    pair of tame ostriches, at least seven feet high, were
+    strolling about the roadway, and a gazelle, some monkeys,
+    parrots, and birds lived happily together beneath a broad
+    verandah. After a little while we went for a drive to see the
+    camp and town of Aden, which is four or five miles from the
+    Point where everybody lands. On the way we met trains of
+    heavily laden camels bringing in wood, water, grain, and
+    fodder, for garrison consumption, and coffee and spices for
+    exportation. After driving for about four miles we reached a
+    gallery pierced through the rock, which admits you into the
+    precincts of the fort. The entrance is very narrow, the sides
+    precipitous, and the place apparently impregnable. We went all
+    through the town, or rather towns, past the Arab village, the
+    Sepoy barracks, and the European barracks, to the water tanks,
+    stupendous works carved out of the solid rock, but until lately
+    comparatively neglected, the residents depending entirely on
+    distillation for their supply of water. There is a pretty
+    little garden at the foot of the lowest tank, but the heat was
+    intense in the bottom of the deep valley amongst the rocks,
+    where every sun-ray seemed to be collected and reflected from
+    the white glaring limestone, and every breath of air to be
+    excluded. We saw a little more of the town and the market
+    crowded with camels, the shops full of lion, leopard, and
+    hy&aelig;na skins. We went to the officers' mess-house, visited
+    the <span class="pagenum">Page 453<a name="Page_453"
+       id="Page_453"></a></span>Protestant and Roman Catholic
+       churches and the Mohammedan mosque, and then passing through
+       two long tunnels, bored and blasted in the solid rock, we
+       looked over the fortifications. Finally, we returned to the
+       Point again by way of the Isthmus, and went to Government
+       House, which gets a fresh breeze from every quarter. They
+       say that to-day is hotter than usual, but it is never really
+       very oppressive here unless there is an exceptionally hot
+       wind blowing from the desert, but even that is partially
+       cooled before it arrives. To us it appears delightful after
+       our sultry voyage and the heat at Penang and Singapore.</p>
+
+    <p>We are all agreeably disappointed with Aden, and find that
+    it is by no means the oven we expected; it is prettier too than
+    I thought, the mountains and rocks are so peaked and pointed,
+    and although the general effect is one of barrenness, still, if
+    you look closely, every crack and crevice is full of something
+    green. The soil, being of volcanic origin, is readily
+    fertilised by moisture, and at once produces some kind of
+    vegetation. This adds of course greatly to the effect of
+    colour, which in the rocks themselves is extremely beautiful,
+    especially at sunrise and sunset. The sea, too, is delightfully
+    blue on one side of the peninsula, and pale green on the other,
+    according to the wind, and the white surf curls and breaks on
+    the sandy shore beyond the crisp waves.</p>
+
+    <p>We went back to the hotel a little before one, and found
+    many friends had called during our absence. After
+    superintending the children's dinner, I went with Tom to
+    luncheon at Government House. It was very pleasant; General and
+    Mrs. Schneider were more than kind, and the house felt
+    deliciously cool and airy.</p>
+
+    <p>We are told that thirty miles inland the country is
+    sometimes very beautiful. There are exquisitely green valleys,
+    with a stream running through them, amongst peaks, and rocky
+    mountains, which one rarely sees in the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 454<a name="Page_454"
+       id="Page_454"></a></span>desert. Here the natives cultivate
+       their crops of corn&mdash;such corn as it is too, reaching
+       six feet above a man's head! All sorts of useful vegetables
+       grow abundantly, besides roses, fruits, and fragrant
+       flowers, large supplies of which are brought daily into
+       Aden. About ten miles from the town there are acres of the
+       most fertile garden ground, which is cultivated to supply
+       the garrison with vegetables. Sometimes a party of seventy
+       or eighty men, and ten or twenty Arab guides, goes out for
+       three weeks or a month at a time surveying. The natives are
+       much more friendly than they used to be a few years ago,
+       when people were afraid even to ride outside the town. Now
+       pleasant excursions lasting a few days may be made,
+       especially as there is very fair shooting to be got. After
+       luncheon I was shown some lovely feathers. The contrast
+       between these and the steamer-feathers is ludicrous; the
+       price, too, is proportionately cheaper, for the feathers are
+       infinitely better. Long, white, full, and curly feathers can
+       be bought for much less than you give for them in England.
+       We drove down to the town, finished our business
+       transactions, and then went in the 'Vestal's' steam launch
+       on board the 'Gamma,' one of the new Chinese gunboats on her
+       way out to China.</p>
+
+    <p>After afternoon tea we all adjourned to the 'Sunbeam,' where
+    we found many other friends already arrived or arriving. We had
+    only just time to look round before the sun set, and the short
+    twilight was succeeded by the swift tropical darkness. All too
+    soon good-bye had to be said; the anchor was raised, and we
+    were actually drifting slowly along under our head canvas
+    before our friends took their departure. It was a lovely
+    evening, with a light fair breeze, and although there appeared
+    hardly any wind, it was wonderful how swiftly we crept out of
+    the harbour, and, as sail after sail was spread, how rapidly we
+    glided past the land.</p>
+
+    <p>Our visit to Aden has been short but very agreeable; it is
+    not by any means such a dreadful place as we had
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 455<a name="Page_455"
+       id="Page_455"></a></span>always fancied. Most of the people
+       we have seen to-day seem rather to like it; there is good
+       boating, excellent sea fishing, moderate shooting, and many
+       rides and excursions. A vehicle of some sort is an absolute
+       necessity, however, if you want to see anything of your
+       friends, for the three divisions of the settlement are at
+       least four miles apart, and the heat is far too great for
+       driving or riding in the middle of the day, except on
+       business. I cannot say, however, that we ourselves found it
+       intolerably hot to-day.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 456<a name="Page_456"
+       id="Page_456"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII"
+       id="CHAPTER_XXVII">CHAPTER XXVII.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">TO SUEZ.</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span class="i22"><i>Round the decay</i><br /></span>
+            <span><i>Of that colossal wreck; boundless and
+            bare</i><br /></span> <span><i>The lone and level sands
+            stretch far away</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, April 17th</i>.&mdash;The breeze still continued
+    and freshened, and we sailed along pleasantly before it,
+    finding it a great relief to be rid of the thud and beat of the
+    engine. There is no vibration, but the noise is unpleasant.
+    About eleven o'clock we passed the island of Perim, a most
+    desolate-looking place. I do not wonder that officers so much
+    dislike being quartered there. It is an important position
+    though, and is shortly to be strengthened, when water-tanks
+    will be built, and attempts made to cultivate the soil. At
+    present there does not appear to be a blade of vegetation, and
+    on the side we passed, between the island and the coast of
+    Arabia, nothing is to be seen but the little white lighthouse
+    and the path leading up to it. On the southern side there is a
+    very fair harbour and a moderate town. On the shore all round
+    the island turtles are caught at the season when they land to
+    deposit their eggs. To pass the island of Perim we sailed
+    through the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, or 'Gate of Tears,' thus
+    called on account of the numerous wrecks which took place there
+    in former years. Once through the straits, we were fairly in
+    the Red Sea. The colour of the Red Sea is certainly the bluest
+    of ultramarines. In the afternoon the town of Mocha Yamen,
+    celebrated alike for its breed of Arab horses and its
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 457<a name="Page_457"
+       id="Page_457"></a></span>coffee, was visible from the
+       masthead. It is a large white town, full of cupolas and
+       minarets, surrounded with green as far as irrigation
+       extends, and looking like a pearl set in emeralds on the
+       margin of the deep blue sea against a background of red and
+       yellow sand-mountains. Later in the afternoon we passed
+       Great and Little Hamish, where the P. and O. boat, 'Alma,'
+       was wrecked some fifteen years ago, and during the night
+       sailed by Jebel Zibayar and Tukar.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_472"
+             id="Illus_472"></a> <img src="images/t_472.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="152"
+             alt="Illustration: Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb"
+             title="Illustration: Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb" /><br />
+        <b>Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb</b><br />
+        <a href="images/472.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, April 18th</i>.&mdash;In the morning, at
+    daylight, we were off Jebel Teir, Mussawa Island, Annesley Bay
+    lying 60 miles to the west. Our position was about 60 miles to
+    the south-west of Mussawa Zoulia, where the expedition under
+    Lord Napier of Magdala landed in 1867. At noon we had sailed
+    221 miles, a most unexpected run in the Red Sea. In the
+    afternoon it fell calm, but the wind freshened again, and we
+    went on sailing until after midnight.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, April 19th</i>.&mdash;We commenced steaming at
+    1 a.m., stopped, however, at 5 a.m., and sailed all day.
+    Yesterday we were surrounded by some beautiful blue birds, who
+    hovered about us and settled at intervals on the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 458<a name="Page_458"
+       id="Page_458"></a></span>masts and yards. During the night
+       two were caught napping by the men, and in the course of
+       to-day two more, hotly pursued by a hawk, took refuge on
+       board and were also captured. One was given to me. It
+       appears to be a very beautiful kind of jay, with feathers of
+       the most brilliant shades of blue. The men have killed their
+       birds for the sake of the skins, but I mean to try and keep
+       mine alive. At Colombo several birds and two curiously
+       starred tortoises were added to our collection; and we took
+       on board at Aden a gazelle, a black cockatoo, and a green
+       monkey.</p>
+
+    <p>We passed Souakim to-day, the port of Nubia. It is about 275
+    miles, or 25 days' camel-journey, from thence to Berber on the
+    Nile. The road passes through Korib, and among fine red granite
+    and black basalt mountains, 4,000 feet high. We left one of the
+    firemen, Tom Dollar, behind at Aden by mistake, and only found
+    out yesterday that we had done so. It appears that he has a
+    brother living there, whom he was most anxious to go and see
+    directly the anchor was let go, in the morning. Unfortunately,
+    he did not speak to us on the subject. He had never been in
+    anything but a regular steamer before, and could not believe it
+    possible that the 'Sunbeam' could spread her wings and be off
+    without any preliminary 'fire-worshipping,' I am very sorry for
+    the poor man, as he has left all his clothes and the wages he
+    had earned on board the P. and O. steamer behind him. We must
+    send them back from Suez, and telegraph to some one to look out
+    for him. The heat is intense, and we all sleep on deck at
+    night; the sunrises and sunsets are magnificent.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, April 20th</i>.&mdash;A little hotter still;
+    there is no wind at all, and we are obliged to steam. In the
+    morning we passed to the southward of Jeddo, the port of Mecca.
+    Unfortunately it was so hazy that we could not distinguish
+    anything whatever of the town or country, only a line of
+    mountains rearing their heads above the clouds. We had
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 459<a name="Page_459"
+       id="Page_459"></a></span>hoped to be at Suez early on
+       Sunday, but now I fear we shall not arrive until Monday.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, April 21st</i>.&mdash;Hotter and still hotter
+    every day, says the thermometer, and so we say also. Everybody
+    told us these would be our two hottest days, and certainly the
+    prediction has been verified. We did not see a single ship all
+    day, but in the afternoon passed Zambo, the port of Medina. A
+    little before midnight we made the light on the D&aelig;dalus
+    shoal on the starboard bow.</p>
+
+    <p>This being Muriel's fifth birthday, Mabelle and the doctor
+    and the men have been arranging a surprise for her all day, and
+    none of us were allowed to go on the port side of the deck, but
+    after dinner we were taken to a hastily fitted-up theatre, very
+    prettily decorated with flags and Japanese lanterns. On a
+    throne covered with the Union Jack, Muriel was seated, the two
+    pugs being on footstools on either side of her to represent
+    lions <i>couchant</i>. Some of the men had blackened their
+    faces, and gave us a really very excellent Christy Minstrel
+    entertainment, in which undreamed-of talent came to light. It
+    is very odd and interesting how one is perpetually finding out
+    something new about the men. Some of the crew we thought the
+    most unpromising when we started, have turned out among our
+    best men, always ready and willing for everything, while
+    others, who at first appeared the best, have not proved so
+    good. Many we knew well beforehand. On the whole, however, we
+    have very little cause to complain of our crew; all pull well
+    together when they are kept up to their work and have plenty to
+    do.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, April 22nd</i>.&mdash;Clouds veiled the sunrise
+    this morning, which was a welcome relief; still it was too hot
+    for service in the saloon, and it was therefore held on deck. A
+    light breeze sprang up ahead during its performance, which
+    cooled and refreshed us immensely. About twelve o'clock we
+    passed another pair of 'Brothers,' a couple of odd-looking
+    rocks or islands, like tables, rising straight out of the sea;
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 460<a name="Page_460"
+       id="Page_460"></a></span>there is a beacon on the
+       northernmost one. While we were at lunch, the breeze
+       freshened so much that we were all glad to add some wraps to
+       our light and airy costumes. A little later, a summer gale
+       was blowing ahead, making some of us feel very uncomfortable
+       and long for the halcyon days of the past, even with the
+       accompaniment of the inevitable heat. Such is mankind, and
+       womankind too for that matter, 'never blessed but always to
+       be blessed.' The gale freshened, the screw was raised, the
+       yacht pitched and rolled, and we were obliged to put her off
+       her course and under sail before night fell. The spray came
+       over the decks, and there was a strong wind dead ahead. We
+       all felt cold and miserable, though the thermometer still
+       registered 75&deg;. The poor monkeys and parrots looked most
+       wretched and unhappy, and had to be packed away as speedily
+       as possible. Nine monkeys in an empty wine case seemed very
+       happy and cuddled together for warmth, but the two larger
+       and more aristocratic members of the party required a box to
+       themselves. The gazelle had a little tent pitched for him
+       specially in a sheltered corner, and the birds were all
+       stowed away and battened over in the smoking fiddle. Dinner
+       was rather a lame pretence, and it was not long before we
+       all retired, and certainly no one wished to take his or her
+       mattress on deck to-night. It is the first night I have
+       slept in a bed on board the yacht for many weeks, and a very
+       disturbed night it was, for the waves ran high, and we have
+       lately been sailing so steadily over smooth seas, that we
+       did not know what to make of this.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, April 23rd</i>.&mdash;The gale blew as hard as
+    ever, and quite as dead ahead. About noon we made the island of
+    Shaduan, or isle of Seals, so named by the ancients, when the
+    sea and gulf abounded with seals. There are still a few
+    occasionally to be seen to the northward by the fishermen, and
+    their skins are brought to Suez for sale. We are making tacks
+    backwards and forwards across the narrow sea, an exciting
+    amusement for a yachtsman, as <span class="pagenum">Page
+    461<a name="Page_461"
+       id="Page_461"></a></span>it requires constant attention. The
+       sailing directions say that this sea is ill surveyed, except
+       in the direct channel. There are many coral reefs and sunken
+       rocks, and on whichever side you may happen to be wrecked,
+       the natives are ready to rob, ill-treat, and kill you, or
+       sell you as slaves in the interior. It was on two projecting
+       coral reefs from the island of Shaduan, that the 'Carnatic'
+       was wrecked in 1869. She ran ashore at four o'clock in the
+       morning of the 13th of September, soon after having made the
+       light on Rhas Garril. We were at Suez in October of the same
+       year, and everybody was then full of the sad particulars of
+       the wreck, the soldiers being especially useful in bringing
+       in the passengers' luggage, which had been recovered from
+       the Arabs. One of our firemen, Abraham, was on board the
+       'Carnatic' at the time of the disaster, and lost all his
+       worldly goods (not many, I should think, judging by what he
+       has brought on board here).</p>
+
+    <p>The sea was very rough and disagreeable all day. To us the
+    temperature appears quite cool, indeed cold, though the
+    thermometer still remains at 75&deg;. Our friends at Aden, who
+    prophesied that I should want my sealskin jacket before leaving
+    the Gulf of Suez, were not so far wrong in their
+    prognostications as I imagined at the time.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, April 24th</i>.&mdash;We are still beating to
+    windward against a head gale, and by noon had made sixty-five
+    miles to the good, right in the wind's eye&mdash;not a bad
+    performance, considering that the gale was blowing with a force
+    of nine or ten. It has the merit of novelty too, for I suppose
+    that for years no sailing ships have been seen in the Gulf of
+    Suez. The winds blow so steadily for months together, that for
+    six months in the year you cannot get into the Red Sea, and for
+    the other six months you cannot get out of it.</p>
+
+    <p>We passed the island of Rhas Garril, and soon afterwards a
+    steamer went by, altering her course a good deal to inspect us.
+    She evidently thought we were a broken-down
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 462<a name="Page_462"
+       id="Page_462"></a></span>steamer, and intended to come to
+       our rescue. All yesterday and to-day we have been making
+       flannel coats for the monkey, and covers for birdcages, and
+       improvising shelters and snug corners for our pets. At night
+       especially the wind is quite crisp. If this gale continues,
+       it will be Thursday or Friday before we reach Suez; but it
+       may possibly change to-night, and it looks now as if it were
+       breaking.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_477"
+             id="Illus_477"></a> <img src="images/t_477.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="145"
+             alt="Illustration: Beating up the Red Sea"
+             title="Illustration: Beating up the Red Sea" /><br />
+        <b>Beating up the Red Sea</b><br />
+        <a href="images/477.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, April 25th</i>.&mdash;At last the gale
+    <i>has</i> broken. There was not much wind when I went on deck
+    at 4 a.m., and by seven o'clock it was so nearly calm, that the
+    funnel could be raised and fires lighted, and we were soon
+    steaming straight for our destination. We could not see Mount
+    Sinai on account of the mist, but made out the place where the
+    Israelites are said to have crossed the Red Sea, and by four
+    o'clock the town of Suez lay right ahead. The shores are very
+    barren, not a blade of grass nor a scrap of vegetation being
+    visible. Nothing is to be seen save mountain peaks, rocks,
+    stones, and sand. But even this barren scene has a special
+    beauty of its own, particularly at sunrise and sunset. The
+    shapes of mountain and rock are alike striking, the sharp
+    shadows are lovely, and the contrast of reds, yellows, and
+    browns, with the bright blue sea and crisp white waves,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 463<a name="Page_463"
+       id="Page_463"></a></span>is very beautiful. Even when the
+       sun has set, and the rich tints have faded away, the full
+       moon adds another charm to the landscape.</p>
+
+    <p>This afternoon, as we were steaming up towards Suez, I had a
+    chat with Mahomet, one of our Indian firemen, who was fringing
+    a piece of muslin for a turban. I asked him if it was English.
+    'No, Missy; no English&mdash;Switzerland; English no good; all
+    gum and sticky stuff; make fingers dirty; all wash out; leave
+    nothing.' In the South Sea and Sandwich Islands, and in the
+    Malay Peninsula, the natives make the same complaints as to the
+    Manchester cottons. At Hongkong some of the large shops had
+    fifty expensive English ships' compasses on hand; they were all
+    quite unsaleable owing to the liquid having gone bad, in
+    consequence of its not having been properly prepared. Some
+    American compasses of the same quality were in good order and
+    not in the least affected by the climate. It will be a bad day
+    when the confidence in England's honesty as a nation throughout
+    the world, and consequently her well-earned supremacy in
+    commerce, have passed away. The burden, unfortunately, will not
+    fall on the heads of the offenders alone, but, as usual, the
+    innocent will suffer with and for the guilty.</p>
+
+    <p>After four o'clock we came near two steamers lying at
+    anchor, and were shortly afterwards boarded by the captain of
+    the port, the health officer, and sundry other functionaries.
+    After a short delay we dropped anchor, and just as the sun was
+    setting in 'purple and gold' behind the mountains of Arabia, we
+    went ashore in the steam launch. We landed at the Canal
+    Company's Office, in front of which there is a bust of
+    Lieutenant Waghorn, the inaugurator of the overland route.</p>
+
+    <p>At the office, the 'Sunbeam' was entered on the Company's
+    books, and arrangements were made with the chief pilot for
+    to-morrow, while the children amused themselves by riding a
+    pony up and down, and jumping over the
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 464<a name="Page_464"
+       id="Page_464"></a></span>little brooks, and I strolled about
+       admiring the enormous growth of the vegetation since we were
+       here last in 1869. We next steamed five miles further on to
+       the town of Suez, and landed opposite the big hotel, which
+       is more uncomfortable than ever. The rooms are dirty, and
+       the cooking execrable.</p>
+
+    <p>There is nothing to see at Suez, but still we went for a
+    ramble to see that nothing. We cleared our boxes and our
+    letters, and then went on ankle deep in sand to the one
+    European house, the railway station, the Arab quarter and the
+    bazaars, where it is occasionally possible to pick up rather
+    interesting little curiosities brought by the pilgrims from
+    Mecca and Medina.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, April 26th</i>.&mdash;Such a sunrise as this
+    morning's you could only see in Arabia or Egypt. There is a
+    peculiarity about desert colouring at sunrise and sunset that
+    can never be seen anywhere else. We had sundry visitors during
+    the early morning, and before ten o'clock we were in the Canal
+    and steaming on at regulation speed. As the sun rose the heat
+    became intense, 96&deg; in the shade under double awnings. So
+    far from there being a cool breeze to temper it, a hot wind
+    blew from the desert, like the blast from a furnace. I stood on
+    the bridge as long as I could bear the heat, to look at the
+    strange desert view, which could be seen to great advantage in
+    going through at the top of high water. Sand, sand everywhere;
+    here a train of camels, there a few Arab tents, now a whole
+    party shifting their place of abode; a group of women washing,
+    or a drove of buffaloes in a small tributary stream. After
+    going about eight miles we stopped at a <i>gare</i> (as the
+    stopping-places are called) to allow three vessels to pass. One
+    was a fine steamer belonging to the Ducal Line; the others were
+    a Dutch and a German boat (one, the Friesland, has been since
+    wrecked off Cape Finisterre, in December 1877). The cleanliness
+    and general smartness of the former presented a great contrast
+    to her companions, on which the <span class="pagenum">Page
+    465<a name="Page_465"
+       id="Page_465"></a></span>passengers looked very hot and
+       uncomfortable. The centre part of each vessel was crowded
+       with a large number of Dutch or German boys, going out as
+       soldiers to Acheen, who certainly did not appear to be
+       enjoying their voyage.</p>
+
+    <p>We passed Chaloux and reached Ismailia just at nine o'clock,
+    not without considerable effort on the part of the pilot. A
+    steam launch came off from the shore, and we (children and all)
+    landed at once; and, after a moonlight donkey ride, dined at
+    the excellent H&ocirc;tel de Paris, kept by an old Frenchman.
+    <i>Table-d'h&ocirc;te</i> was over, but they gave us a capital
+    little dinner by ourselves. The children and I, and some of the
+    gentlemen, start to-morrow, overland <i>vi&acirc;</i> Cairo, to
+    join the yacht at Alexandria, in order that they may see the
+    Pyramids. It was a glorious night as we rowed off to the yacht
+    under the bright beams of the full moon, and the air, too, was
+    quite fresh and cool&mdash;a most refreshing change from the
+    noontide heat.</p>
+
+    <p>The traffic on the Canal has increased during the last few
+    years, and especially during the last few months; on an average
+    four or five ships passed through every day. To-day they took
+    6,000<i>l</i>. at the Suez Office alone. They have an excellent
+    plan of the Canal there, and little models of ships, which are
+    arranged according to the telegrams constantly received, so
+    that the chief officers at each end of the Canal know exactly
+    where every ship is. Instant information is of course sent of
+    any stoppage or any accident, but these occur comparatively
+    seldom. Some time ago M. Lesseps bought a small canal partially
+    stopped up leading from the Nile at Cairo to Ismailia. It has
+    been widened and deepened, and was opened a few weeks ago with
+    great ceremony and grand doings. Now any vessel not drawing
+    more than fourteen feet can go direct from Suez or Port Said to
+    Cairo. If we had had time, we might have done it in the yacht,
+    and lain at anchor almost under the shadow of the Pyramids of
+    Cheops. The special object of the new canal is to make Cairo
+    and Ismailia Egyptian <span class="pagenum">Page
+    466<a name="Page_466"
+       id="Page_466"></a></span> ports as well as Alexandria,
+       thereby saving much land carriage and labour of shifting.
+       Already several ships laden with grain, from Upper Egypt,
+       have availed themselves of this new means of
+       communication.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, April 27th</i>.&mdash;Another glorious sunrise.
+    The pilot was on board at 5 a.m., and the Dhebash with fish,
+    strawberries, and fresh vegetables. This is a beautiful
+    climate, though there is scarcely any rain; only one very
+    slight shower has occurred during the last three years at Suez,
+    but the soil of the desert after the Nile overflow brings forth
+    tenfold.</p>
+
+    <p>The 'Sunbeam' was to start at eight o'clock, as soon as a
+    large vessel had passed up from Port Said. There are only
+    certain places in the Canal where vessels can pass one another,
+    so one ship is always obliged to wait for another. We landed at
+    half-past seven. The sun was already blazing with a burning
+    fury, and we found it very hot riding up to the hotel on
+    donkeys. We had an excellent breakfast at the same comfortable
+    hotel, paid a very moderate bill, and left by the eleven
+    o'clock train for Cairo. We stopped at Zag-&agrave;-zig for an
+    hour for luncheon in a nice cool dark room, and started again
+    about three o'clock. The change in the face of the country
+    since we were here eight years ago is something extraordinary.
+    A vast desert of sand has been transformed into one large oasis
+    of undulating fields of waving corn, where there used to be
+    nothing but whirlwinds of sand. All this has been effected by
+    irrigation. The wealth of Egypt ought greatly to increase. How
+    the people managed to live before is a mystery. Now every field
+    is full of labourers reaping and stacking the corn, women
+    gleaning, and in some places the patient, ugly black buffaloes
+    ploughing the stubble for fresh crops.</p>
+
+    <p>At half-past six we reached Cairo, and were conveyed in a
+    large <i>char-&agrave;-bancs</i> to what was formerly
+    Shepherd's Hotel, now partly rebuilt and much altered for the
+    better. Even in that short drive we could see that the face of
+    the <span class="pagenum">Page 467<a name="Page_467"
+       id="Page_467"></a></span>capital of Egypt had altered as
+       much as the country, though I am not sure that it is so
+       greatly improved. After a refreshing dip in cool marble
+       baths and a change of garments, we went down to the large
+       <i>table-d'h&ocirc;te</i>. Then we sat in the verandah
+       looking on the street until we became tired of doing
+       nothing, after which we started for a stroll in the Ezkebieh
+       gardens close by. They are beautifully laid out for evening
+       promenade; but although the flowers are lovely, and the
+       turf, thanks to constant waterings, is deliciously green,
+       all the large trees have been cut down. There is no
+       seclusion, no shade, which seems a pity in a country where
+       the greatest desire of life is shelter from the noonday
+       heat. To-night both Arab and French bands were playing
+       within the enclosure, and it was pleasant enough listening
+       to Offenbach's music under the beams of the full moonlight.
+       Few people appeared to appreciate it, however, for the
+       gardens were nearly empty; but then the season is over, and
+       every one has fled before the coming heat.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, April 28th</i>.&mdash;We had settled to start
+    at six o'clock this morning to visit the Pyramids, an excursion
+    which had been for some little time eagerly looked forward to
+    and talked about by the younger members of our party. The
+    morning was cold and grey, a strong northerly wind was blowing,
+    and the change from the weather which had prevailed but a few
+    hours previously was altogether most striking and unexpected.
+    We drove rapidly through the streets and the outskirts of the
+    town, where old houses are being pulled down and new ones
+    rapidly built up, and where a general air of new bricks and old
+    rubbish pervades the scene. Then we crossed the Nile by a
+    handsome iron bridge, and saw the Palace of Gezireh, where the
+    Prince of Wales and his suite were lodged. We passed the
+    railway extension works, and, to the great delight of the
+    children, saw two elephants busily employed, one of which was
+    being made to lie down to enable his mahout to dismount. Soon
+    the little ones gave a shout of 'The Pyramids!' and there
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 468<a name="Page_468"
+       id="Page_468"></a></span>before us stood those grand
+       monuments of a nameless founder, which for centuries have
+       stood out in the sands of the desert, while the burning
+       African sun and the glorious African moon have risen and set
+       on their heavenward-pointing summits for countless days and
+       nights. Even the earth has changed her position so much
+       since they were erected that the pole star no longer sheds
+       its light in a direct line through the central passages, as
+       it did when first they were designed.</p>
+
+    <p>We drove along under avenues of now leafless trees to the
+    foot of the hill on which the Pyramids are situated. Here
+    everybody was turned out to walk except Muriel and me, and a
+    tremendous tug the horses had to drag even us two up to the
+    real foot of the Pyramids. On arriving we were at once
+    surrounded by a crowd of Arabs. They are certainly a
+    fine-looking lot of men, rather clamorous for backshish, and
+    anxious to sell their curiosities, real or imitation. They
+    were, however, good-natured, civil, and obliging, and amused me
+    much during the hour I spent alone with them while the rest of
+    the party were ascending and descending the Pyramids. Many
+    could speak several languages quite fluently, and almost all of
+    them took a good deal of interest in the war, and the prospects
+    of success on either side; while many had a fair knowledge of
+    the geography of Europe. While all the rest were on the top of
+    the one large Pyramid, a man ran down from the summit and up to
+    the top of the next smaller one (which is, however, more
+    difficult to ascend) in 'eight minutes for a franc' This feat
+    was repeated several times by different men, but it really
+    occupied nearer ten minutes.</p>
+
+    <p>We ate some bread and wine, bought a few curiosities, and
+    then drove back to the city, feeling very cold and shivery and
+    regretting the wraps we had left behind. We reached the hotel
+    just in time for twelve o'clock <i>table-d'h&ocirc;te</i>
+    breakfast, and, after an acceptable rest, sallied forth again,
+    this time on donkeys, to see the bazaars and the sunset from
+    the <span class="pagenum">Page 469<a name="Page_469"
+       id="Page_469"></a></span>citadel. We went across squares and
+       gardens and through wide streets, for, alas! Cairo is being
+       rapidly Haussmannised. For the capitalist or resident, Cairo
+       may be improved, but for the traveller, the artist, the
+       lover of the picturesque, the quaint, and the beautiful, the
+       place is ruined. Cairo as a beautiful and ancient oriental
+       city has ceased to exist, and is being rapidly transformed
+       into a bad imitation of modern Paris, only with bluer skies,
+       a more brilliant sun, and a more serene climate than it is
+       possible to find in Europe. Only a few narrow streets and
+       old houses are still left, with carved wooden lattices,
+       where you can yet dream that the 'Arabian Nights' are
+       true.</p>
+
+    <p>We went to the gold and silver bazaar, and bought some
+    quaint silver jewellery from Assouan, Soudan, and Abyssinia;
+    then through the Turkish bazaar, the saddlery bazaars, past
+    mosques and old houses, till at length we emerged into new
+    squares and new streets, before climbing the hill to the
+    citadel, the Viceroy's palace, and the splendid Mosque of
+    Mehemet Ali, built of Egyptian alabaster. The view from the
+    terrace is superb, over city, desert, river, palm-trees, and
+    Pyramids. The sunset this evening was a disappointment; yellow,
+    cold, and watery, a strong north wind bringing up all the sand
+    from the desert. We returned to the hotel for dinner, and were
+    all glad to go early to bed.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, April 29th</i>.&mdash;The children and I went to
+    the English church, a semi-Gothic building, without a single
+    window which could open. Though the church was nearly empty,
+    the air felt like that of an exhausted receiver, and made one
+    gasp. In the cool of the afternoon we drove through Roulai,
+    where the museum stands, in a beautiful garden close by the
+    riverside, amid flowers in full bloom.</p>
+
+    <p>After an early meal (hardly to be called dinner) we went to
+    the station, just as all the people were going for a drive to
+    Shoubrah in the smartest carriages and the prettiest
+    toilets.</p>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 470<a name="Page_470"
+       id="Page_470"></a></span>Our journey to Alexandria in the
+       evening was cool and pleasant. A huge break met us, and we
+       drove to Abbat's Hotel&mdash;considerably improved since our
+       last visit in 1869.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, April 30th</i>.&mdash;Got up at 5 a.m. After a
+    deliciously soft but very muddy bath, I went for a donkey ride
+    before breakfast with Mabelle. Tom arrived from the yacht in
+    time for twelve o'clock breakfast, and announced the voyage
+    from Port Said to have been rough and unpleasant.</p>
+
+    <p>We called on the Consul, the Vice-Consul, and our old
+    friend, Consul Burton of Trieste, Haj Abdullah. He has just
+    returned from a journey through the ancient land of Midian,
+    undertaken at the special request of the Viceroy. He describes
+    the expedition as having been most successful; the climate is
+    almost perfect from September to May; the land is well watered
+    by little streams flowing through fertile valleys, and full of
+    fragrant flowers and luscious fruits. The corn reaches above
+    the camel-men's heads, which means a height of fourteen or
+    fifteen feet. But the mineral wealth of the country is its most
+    extraordinary feature. He found traces of gold in the sand of
+    the river-beds, in spots pointed out to him by his
+    fellow-pilgrims on the way to Mecca twenty years ago, to say
+    nothing of tin, iron, &amp;c. Perhaps the most interesting part
+    of his discovery was the remains of eight ruined cities with
+    traces in the dry river-beds of stone-crushing and gold-seeking
+    apparatus, which must have been used centuries ago. He is
+    writing a book on the subject, which you may perhaps see before
+    you read this.</p>
+
+    <p>The Consul kindly sent a janissary with us to show us the
+    Sultan's palace. It is large and bare of furniture; and the
+    general style of decoration is like that of the palaces at
+    Cherniga and Dolma Batscher. Thence we went to see Pompey's
+    Pillar and Cleopatra's Needle, the dahabeas ready to go up the
+    Nile, &amp;c.; and returned to the hotel in time for dinner and
+    a chat afterwards in the cool courtyard.
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 471<a name="Page_471"
+       id="Page_471"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, May 1st</i>.&mdash;I wrote from 3 a.m. to 6.30
+    a.m., in order to send letters off by the French mail, and at
+    seven Mabelle and I sallied forth on donkeys to visit the
+    market. There was not much to see, however, everything being so
+    crowded and jammed up, meat, fish, vegetables, and fruit, all
+    close together. The crowd was amusing, as all the European
+    householders had negroes or Arabs following them, laden with
+    their purchases. We found some lovely flowers in a street near
+    the market, and then we went on to the big gold and silver
+    bazaar, and to the Turkish and Syrian bazaars, where we saw all
+    the specialities of Constantinople, and Broussa, Damascus, and
+    Jerusalem laid out before us. After breakfast, the antics of
+    two enormous apes, who came round on a donkey, accompanied by a
+    showman and a boy, amused the children much. They were
+    hideously ugly, but the cleverest monkeys I ever saw. They went
+    through a regular little play, quarrelled with one another; the
+    man and the boy rode the ape, and made him kick; at last the
+    ape was hurt, and lay fainting in the man's arms, limp and
+    languid, just able to sip a little water; then he died, and
+    dropped down stiff, with his eyes shut. His tail was pulled,
+    his lips and eyelids were forced open, but he never winked an
+    eyelid or moved a hair of his whiskers. He was thrown about
+    from side to side, remaining perfectly motionless till, at a
+    sign from his master, he jumped up as well as ever, shouldered
+    his gun, and mounted his ass to take his departure. He was
+    promptly ordered to dismount and ask for backshish, which he
+    did, cap in hand. Some of the crowd round about not
+    contributing to his master's satisfaction, the ape took a nasty
+    venomous-looking little snake out of a bag which he carried
+    over his shoulder, and threw it among the bystanders, to their
+    great consternation.</p>
+
+    <p>At two o'clock we went to lunch with the Consul, and what a
+    pleasant lunch it was, prepared by a French cook, and eaten in
+    a cool, airy, and shady room free from flies,
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 472<a name="Page_472"
+       id="Page_472"></a></span>which were kept out by fine wire
+       gauze placed in front of each well-shaded door and window!
+       The table was one mass of the roses for which Alexandria is
+       so famous. Everybody had wandered about the world more or
+       less, everybody was in good spirits, and we laughed and
+       chatted and talked sense or nonsense as the fancy took us,
+       till it was time to go on board the yacht <i>en masse</i>,
+       and receive some visitors at tea. A few had arrived before
+       us, but the children and some others of the party were on
+       board and had been doing the honours and showing them round.
+       About 5.30 p.m. our last guests departed, and all was ready
+       for a start; but, alas! we had to wait for an absent
+       steward, who had gone in search of the always late linen,
+       that plague of the poor yachtsman's life when he has a large
+       party on board. The sun was sinking fast, the wind was
+       blowing fresh and fair, and if we did not start soon it
+       would be impossible to do so at all, and a night's work of
+       more than 120 miles would be lost. At last the welcome boat
+       was seen coming from the shore; we unmoored, and went ahead
+       for about an hour. But the light gradually faded away; it
+       became impossible to distinguish the beacon; the sand banks
+       are numerous, and there are no lights. It was only
+       endangering the ship and the lives of all on board to
+       proceed; so the order was reluctantly given, 'Hard a-port.'
+       Round she went in her own length almost, and very soon we
+       let go the anchor just outside our old moorings, and spent
+       the night, after all, in the harbour of Alexandria.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<span class="pagenum">Page 473<a name="Page_473"
+       id="Page_473"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="CHAPTER_XXVIII"
+       id="CHAPTER_XXVIII">CHAPTER XXVIII.</a></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">'HOME.'</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span><i>She comes, majestic with her swelling
+            sails</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>The gallant bark along
+            her watery way</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>Homeward she
+            drives before the favouring gales</i>.<br /></span>
+            <span><i>Now flitting at their length the streamers
+            fly</i>,<br /></span> <span><i>And now they ripple with
+            the ruffling breeze</i>.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, May 2nd</i>.&mdash;Steam was up at five
+    o'clock, the wind being still fair but light. Soon it dropped
+    to a calm, and then went round and blew with great force
+    exactly in the opposite direction, dead ahead. The fires had to
+    be put out, for it was so rough we could do no good steaming
+    against the gale. The screw kept racing round and shaking the
+    vessel terribly. Of course I was very ill; but the maids did
+    not mind, and the children rather enjoyed the tumbling about
+    and the water on deck. We continued scudding along through the
+    water, but not making much progress on our course.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_488"
+             id="Illus_488"></a> <img src="images/t_488.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="153"
+             alt="Illustration: HOMEWARD BOUND"
+             title="Illustration: HOMEWARD BOUND" /><br />
+        <b>HOMEWARD BOUND</b><br />
+        <a href="images/488.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, May 3rd</i>.&mdash;The wind kept on increasing,
+    and at last blew quite a gale. We have gone a long way out
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 474<a name="Page_474"
+       id="Page_474"></a></span>of our course to the northward,
+       ready for a favourable change, but we can scarcely make any
+       way to the westward.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, May 4th</i>.&mdash;A repetition of
+    yesterday&mdash;,</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span>Beating, beating all the day,<br /></span>
+            <span>But never a bit ahead.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, May 5th</i>.&mdash;A lull at last, and we are
+    able to have the fires lighted and to steam on our course. We
+    made the Island of Scarpanto in the morning. All the afternoon
+    and evening we have been steaming along ten miles to the
+    southward of Crete. Its outline was very beautiful, surmounted
+    by the snow-capped mountains. I was up on deck just in time to
+    behold the most lovely sunset, with exquisite rosy, purple, and
+    crimson tints on sea and sky.</p>
+
+    <p>I have not quite got over my attack in Cairo yet, and for
+    the last three days have been completely laid up with a various
+    mixture of land illness and sea sickness. We stopped steaming
+    late in the day, but fires were lighted again in the middle of
+    the night, as the wind was still ahead. There was a discussion
+    whether or not to go round the north side of the Island of
+    Kandia, so as to have a glimpse of the British Fleet at anchor
+    in Suda Bay, if they have already arrived there.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, May 6th, and Monday, May 7th</i>.&mdash;Early in
+    the morning the snowy mountains of Crete were still in sight.
+    Service was held as usual at eleven, but it was too rough in
+    the afternoon for it to be repeated.</p>
+
+    <p>Sail and steam, wind and calm, alternated with one another
+    all day. Tom is anxious to sail every mile he can, and yet not
+    to lose any unnecessary time, and finds it exceedingly
+    difficult to combine these two objects.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, May 8th</i>.&mdash;A fine morning, with a cold
+    strong head breeze. At noon we rejoiced to think that Malta was
+    not more than a few miles ahead, or we should assuredly have
+    failed to reach our port before nightfall. About three
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 475<a name="Page_475"
+       id="Page_475"></a></span>we closed in with the land about
+       Marsa Scirocco and Delamara Point, and, after one or two
+       tacks, rounded the Point of Ricasole, and leaving Port St.
+       Elmo on our right, we swiftly glided into the grand harbour
+       of Valetta. We have been here so often that it feels quite
+       like reaching home. We soon found ourselves in our old
+       quarters in the Dockyard Creek, and had scarcely moored
+       before one of the officers came on board with the usual
+       complimentary offers of assistance, whilst directly
+       afterwards came an invitation to a farewell ball at the
+       Palace, given to the Duke of Edinburgh. Our old boatman,
+       Bubbly Joe, took us ashore to dinner, and we found
+       everything looking as bright and cheerful and steep as it
+       always does and always will do; not the least bit altered or
+       modernised. The landlord of the H&ocirc;tel d'Angleterre was
+       delighted to see us again, and so were his servants, who
+       came flocking from all parts of the house, nearly pulling
+       the children to pieces, and plying our own servants with
+       questions in their anxiety to know all about us.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_490"
+             id="Illus_490"></a> <img src="images/t_490.jpg"
+             width="135"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Faldetta, Malta"
+             title="Illustration: Faldetta, Malta" /><br />
+        <b>Faldetta, Malta</b><br />
+        <a href="images/490.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We had to go back on board the yacht to dress, and then
+    return for the ball, by which time I was so thoroughly tired,
+    and had so bad a headache, that I could not enjoy it much,
+    pleasant as it was. Very soon after supper we came away and had
+    a charming row across the harbour to our snug quarters on board
+    the 'Sunbeam.' These sudden <span class="pagenum">Page
+    476<a name="Page_476"
+       id="Page_476"></a></span> bursts of dissipation on shore are
+       a delightful change after days and weeks at sea.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, May 9th</i>.&mdash;I was up soon after sunrise
+    and admired this often-abused creek as much as I always do. The
+    stone houses, the carved and coloured verandahs of bright
+    flowers, the water lapping the very door-steps, the gaily
+    painted boats with their high prows at either end, the women in
+    their black dresses and faldettas, and black-robed priests, all
+    helped to carry the imagination over the Mediterranean and up
+    the Adriatic to lovely Venice. At this hour in the morning
+    there were not many English soldiers or sailors to spoil the
+    illusion.</p>
+
+    <p>Malta is essentially a border-land&mdash;African by
+    geographical configuration, European politically, and assuredly
+    Asiatic in its language, its buildings, and in the manners and
+    customs of the natives. We gave everybody on board a holiday,
+    and the chance of a run ashore to-day to stretch their legs
+    after their long sea voyage. Tom went on board the 'Sultan' to
+    see the Duke of Edinburgh and his splendid ship. Whilst at
+    breakfast I received an intimation that the Duke of Edinburgh
+    wished to come and examine the yacht. His Royal Highness
+    arrived soon afterwards, quite unattended, in a beautiful
+    ten-oared barge, and paid us a long, visit, inspecting the
+    yacht minutely and looking at all the pets. He took a great
+    interest in our voyage and courses, as well as in the numerous
+    curiosities, knowing at once from what place each had been
+    procured. The Duke, who had taken very nearly the same cruise
+    himself in the 'Galatea' a few years ago, inquired very kindly
+    after all his old friends at Tahiti, Hilo, Honolulu, and many
+    other places. The Duke is very kind to everybody here. He is
+    much liked by his brother officers in the squadron, and both
+    H.R.H. and the Duchess seem to have made themselves most
+    popular here during the winter. The officers of the 'Sultan,'
+    several of whom are old friends of ours, appear to think
+    themselves fortunate indeed in having
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 477<a name="Page_477"
+       id="Page_477"></a></span>such a commanding officer, whilst
+       on shore his approaching departure is universally regretted.
+       Everybody seems full of their Royal Highnesses' winter ball,
+       which must have been a most brilliant affair.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_492"
+             id="Illus_492"></a> <img src="images/t_492.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="184"
+             alt="Illustration: Armoury in the Governor's Palace, Valetta"
+             title="Illustration: Armoury in the Governor's Palace, Valetta" />
+        <br />
+        <b>Armoury in the Governor's Palace, Valetta</b><br />
+        <a href="images/492.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>After the Duke's departure we went ashore again, called on
+    various friends before luncheon, and went over the palace and
+    through the armoury. Then we took a walk down the Strada Reale,
+    the shopping street of Valetta, until it was time to go on
+    board to receive some friends to tea. The shops are full of
+    coral, lace, gold and silver filigree work, and a new sort of
+    lace they make in Gozo, of white silk, in beautiful patterns.
+    It has been manufactured only during the last few years, and
+    varies much in quality and design. Some forty or fifty friends
+    came on board and amused themselves looking at our curiosities
+    and photographs until long past the dinner hour. We had to
+    hurry on shore to dine, and go afterwards to the Opera Manoel.
+    The new Grand Opera House is not to be opened until next
+    October. It had been blowing fresh and
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 478<a name="Page_478"
+       id="Page_478"></a></span>strong from the westward all day,
+       but to-night, as we rowed across the harbour, the breeze had
+       dropped to a flat calm, and Tom is most anxious to be off at
+       daybreak.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, May 10th</i>.&mdash;I was up before sunrise. A
+    fresh fair wind was blowing, and as soon as the children could
+    be got ready we all went ashore to the market, which was
+    crowded with people, and full of fish, meat, and all spring
+    vegetables and fruit. We were to start at 6.30, so there was no
+    time to lose, and laden with lovely bouquets of flowers we
+    hastened on board; but it was nine o'clock, after all our
+    haste, before we were fairly off, through some mistake about
+    the bill of health.</p>
+
+    <p>Malta is certainly the most delightful place for yachting
+    winter quarters, with its fine healthy harbour, charming
+    society, very cheap living, and abundance of everything good.
+    It is in proximity to many pleasant places, and most
+    interesting excursions can easily be made to Sicily and Italy,
+    or the coast of Africa. To-day we glided along the coast, past
+    the strongly fortified little island of Consino, standing
+    boldly out in mid-channel between Malta and Gozo. The
+    Mediterranean appears to us a highway after the lonely oceans
+    and seas we have been sailing over. Within one hour this
+    morning, we saw more ships than in the whole of our passage
+    from Valparaiso to Tahiti and Yokohama. Towards the evening we
+    could see the island of Pantellaria in the distance. We retain
+    a lively remembrance of it from having been becalmed just off
+    it in the 'Albatross' for three weary days and nights. It was
+    after this and a long series of other vexations and delays that
+    Tom and I registered a vow never to go a long voyage again in a
+    yacht without at least auxiliary steam power.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, May 11th</i>.&mdash;At 2.30 a.m. Pantellaria was
+    abeam. At five the homeward-bound P. and O. steamer passed us
+    quite close, and at six we met the outward-bound P. and O.
+    steamer. At eight we passed Cape Bon and sailed across the
+    mouth of the Bay of Tunis, in the centre of which
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 479<a name="Page_479"
+       id="Page_479"></a></span>is Goletta, the port of Tunis, the
+       site of the ancient city of Carthage. Once we anchored close
+       by that place for two or three days, and on that occasion I
+       collected enough varieties of marble and mosaic from the old
+       palaces to make some beautiful tables when we got home. In
+       the afternoon and evening we made the Fratelli and the
+       Sorelle Rocks, and still later the little Island of Galita.
+       There were many steamers going in all directions, and it
+       struck one very forcibly how much this little islet in
+       mid-channel stands in need of a light.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, May 13th</i>.&mdash;The wind was dead ahead, and
+    the sea of that remarkably confused character for which the
+    Mediterranean is famous. It seemed as if the wind of yesterday,
+    the wind of to-morrow, and the wind of to-day, had all met and
+    were bent on making a night of it. We had service at eleven and
+    four. The chart, now a good old friend, for it has been used by
+    us on so many Mediterranean voyages, showed that this is the
+    fourth noontide we have spent within a radius of thirty miles
+    of this particular spot; within a radius of sixty miles we have
+    spent at least three weeks of our lives at various periods.
+    This does not of course include voyages in steamers which are
+    not recorded in the chart.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, May 14th</i>.&mdash;About breakfast time to-day
+    we crossed the meridian of Greenwich; and this virtually
+    completed our voyage round the world, our original point of
+    departure having really been Rochester, which is a few minutes
+    to the east of Greenwich. The wind changed in the middle of the
+    day, and we passed through a large fleet of merchantmen hove-to
+    under shelter of Cape de Gat, where they had collected, I
+    suppose, from various ports in Spain and Italy.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, May 15th</i>.&mdash;This was a somewhat sad day,
+    many of our pets dying from the effects of the cold wind or
+    from accidents. The steward's mocking-bird from Siam, which
+    talked like a Christian and followed him about like a
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 480<a name="Page_480"
+       id="Page_480"></a></span>dog, died of acute bronchitis early
+       this morning; and his monkey, the most weird little
+       creature, with the affectionate ways of a human friend, died
+       in the afternoon, of inflammation and congestion of the
+       lungs. Two other monkeys and several birds also expired in
+       the course of the day.</p>
+
+    <p>This evening 'Beau Brummel,' the little pig I brought from
+    Bow Island, in the South Pacific, died of a broken spine, as
+    the doctor, who made a post-mortem examination in each case,
+    discovered. A spar must have dropped upon poor piggy
+    accidentally whilst he was running about on deck, though of
+    course no one knew anything about it. I am very sorry; for
+    though I must confess he was somewhat greedy and pig-like in
+    his habits, he was extremely amusing in his ways. He ran about
+    and went to sleep with the pugs, just like one of themselves.
+    Besides, I do not think any one else in England could have
+    boasted of a pig given to them by a South-Sea-Island chief.
+    Probably 'Beau Brummel' was a lineal descendant of the pigs
+    Captain Cook took out in the 'Endeavour.'</p>
+
+    <p>The bodies were all placed together in a neat little box and
+    committed to the deep at sunset, a few tears being shed over
+    the departed pets, especially by the children.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, May 15th</i>.&mdash;Cape de Gat was abeam early
+    this morning. The wind fell light, but Tom hoped it would
+    freshen again; otherwise, with steam we might easily have got
+    into Gibraltar to-night. As it was, fires were not lighted
+    until ten o'clock.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, May 16th</i>.&mdash;At 3 a.m. I was called to
+    see the light on Europa Point, and stayed on deck to watch the
+    day dawn and the rising of the sun. It was not, however, a very
+    agreeable morning; the Levanter was blowing, the signal station
+    was enveloped in mist, the tops of the mountains of Africa were
+    scarcely discernible above the clouds, and Ceuta and Ape's Hill
+    were invisible. Algeciras and San Roque gleamed white on the
+    opposite shore of the bay, while the dear old Rock itself
+    looked <span class="pagenum">Page 481<a name="Page_481"
+       id="Page_481"></a></span>fresher and cleaner than usual,
+       exhaling a most delicious perfume of flowers. As the sun
+       rose, the twitterings of the birds in the Alameda sounded
+       most homelike and delightful.</p>
+
+    <p>We had dropped our anchor inside the New Mole about 4.30,
+    and before six the familiar sounds of English martial music
+    could be heard from all the different barracks, as the
+    regiments came marching down the hill and along the Alameda to
+    the north front with all their baggage, military trains, tents,
+    and ambulances, for a day's camping out. We were anxious to get
+    on shore to see about coals, water, and provisions, but no
+    health-boat came near us. About seven o'clock we started in
+    despair, first to hail a policeman on shore (at a most
+    respectful distance), to inquire where we could get
+    <i>pratique</i>; then we procured it, and sent word back to the
+    'Sunbeam' that she was out of quarantine, and might hoist the
+    yellow flag. We landed, went to the market, bought some lovely
+    carnations stuck in a prickly-pear leaf to keep them fresh, and
+    then went to the H&ocirc;tel Royal&mdash;kept by the landlord
+    of the old Club House Hotel, where we had so often
+    stayed&mdash;to order breakfast. Our old friends the servants
+    greeted us at every step from the house-door to the
+    coffee-room, and we were taken special care of by a waiter who
+    remembered us. After breakfast we went to pay some visits. We
+    thought we ought to go and look at the galleries and Signal
+    Station, as one or two of our party had never been here before;
+    so we started, some on foot and some on donkeys. All the way up
+    the steep streets to the Moorish castle, girls met us, selling
+    lovely scarlet carnations and yellow roses. The galleries have
+    not changed in the least since our last visit, but our
+    soldier-guide told us they were daily expecting some big guns
+    to come out, and he gave us a minute explanation how they were
+    to be mounted. It was a pleasant ride, neither too hot nor too
+    cold. Every crevice and interstice between the rocks was full
+    of wild flowers, looking bright <span class="pagenum">Page
+    482<a name="Page_482"
+       id="Page_482"></a></span>and pretty, though somewhat
+       insignificant after the gorgeous tropical blossoms our eyes
+       have been lately accustomed to. The fog had cleared off, and
+       the view was beautiful; ships lay in the bay below us from
+       all parts, including a Portuguese gunboat. We saw also one
+       of the two old eagles sitting near her nest in the
+       accustomed place; this year she has only one young one. We
+       did not see the monkeys, on account of the Levanter, but
+       their number has increased to twenty-four, so that there is
+       no immediate fear of their becoming extinct.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_497"
+             id="Illus_497"></a> <img src="images/t_497.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="153"
+             alt="Illustration: Tangier"
+             title="Illustration: Tangier" /><br />
+        <b>Tangier</b><br />
+        <a href="images/497.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>At half-past six p.m. we weighed anchor and steamed out of
+    the anchorage inside the New Mole. In the straits the wind was
+    fair, so the funnel was soon lowered, and the screw feathered,
+    and we were racing along under sail alone. Off Tarifa we found
+    quite a gale blowing, and the wind continued fresh and fair
+    throughout the night.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Thursday, May 17th</i>.&mdash;The strong fair wind
+    dropped, and then came dead ahead, and off Cadiz we had to get
+    up steam. There was a strong wind off the mountains near Cape
+    Sagres, and while Tom was below and the men were busy reefing
+    the sails, we nearly ran ashore. Luckily I noticed our
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 483<a name="Page_483"
+       id="Page_483"></a></span>danger and called Tom, who came up
+       just in time to alter the helm, when the yacht went round
+       like a top, though the shore was too close to be pleasant.
+       It only shows how easily an accident may occur. Both our
+       fishermen-mates could not bear to be idle, and always
+       considered looking out an insignificant occupation, and so
+       neglected that important duty to assist with the sails.</p>
+
+    <p>Off Cape St. Vincent it blew so hard that we were afraid we
+    should be obliged to bring up in the bay of Sagres; but we
+    found that it was only a land breeze, and that it was much
+    smoother outside than we had expected.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Friday, May 18th</i>.&mdash;Fresh breeze. We met many
+    steamers going down the coast with all sail set. After passing
+    Cape Espichel the wind increased to a northerly gale, against
+    which it was impossible to proceed. We therefore put into
+    Lisbon. The mountains at the mouth of the Tagus, the tower and
+    church of Belem, and the noble river itself looked even more
+    beautiful in the sunset than my recollection led me to expect.
+    We soon landed and had an excellent dinner at the Hotel
+    Braganza, where we had stayed before, and where we were at once
+    recognised and cordially received by the same landlord and
+    landlady we remembered in 1861.</p>
+
+    <p>After dinner we went for a walk. One of the things we saw
+    during our stroll was the fine statue of Luiz de Camoens,
+    specially interesting to us, as we had so recently seen the
+    place where he passed many of the weary years of his exile.
+    Rolling Motion Square was as giddy as ever. It was a curious
+    fancy to pave it in such a way as to make it look like the
+    waves of the sea, perpetually moving; and it must be a severe
+    trial to the peripatetic powers of those who have not quite
+    recovered their sea legs.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, May 19th</i>.&mdash;We were off early; it was a
+    lovely day, and we had a pleasant drive to Cintra. On our
+    arrival we mounted donkeys and went to Pe&ntilde;a, the
+    beautiful palace of the ex-King Ferdinand, situated at
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 484<a name="Page_484"
+       id="Page_484"></a></span>the top of the mountains. It is an
+       extraordinary-looking place, the different parts being built
+       in every imaginable style of architecture, with exquisite
+       carving and old tiles that would delight the heart of a
+       connoisseur. One of the most prominent objects near the
+       Palace of Pe&ntilde;a is the statue of Vasco da Gama, nobly
+       placed on a pedestal of natural rocks, piled on the summit
+       of a mountain peak, and worthy of the adventurous traveller
+       it is erected to commemorate. The gardens are full of
+       camellias, roses, bougainvillea, &amp;c. We lunched at the
+       excellent hotel, and came to the conclusion that Cintra is
+       the place, not only 'to spend a happy day,' but many happy
+       months. It is always pleasant to revisit places of which you
+       have <span class="pagenum">Page 485<a name="Page_485"
+       id="Page_485"></a></span>agreeable reminiscences, and to
+       find your expectations surpassed instead of
+       disappointed.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_499"
+             id="Illus_499"></a> <img src="images/t_499.jpg"
+             width="187"
+             height="240"
+             alt="Illustration: Vasco da Gama"
+             title="Illustration: Vasco da Gama" /><br />
+        <b>Vasco da Gama</b><br />
+        <a href="images/499.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>We had a hot drive back to Lisbon, and then went by tram to
+    Belem, where we spent some time in the church and in wandering
+    through its exquisite cloisters. The first stone was laid in
+    1500, and the name changed from Bairro de Restello to Belem or
+    Bethlehem by Prince Henry of Portugal, the great promoter of
+    maritime discovery in that century. It was built specially to
+    commemorate the successful voyage of Vasco da Gama, who
+    returned from the discovery of India in 1499.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_500"
+             id="Illus_500"></a> <img src="images/t_500.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="204"
+             alt="Illustration: Belem Cloister Gardens"
+             title="Illustration: Belem Cloister Gardens" /><br />
+        <b>Belem Cloister Gardens</b><br />
+        <a href="images/500.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Tom met us with the yacht, and, we went on board with the
+    intention of proceeding straight to sea. But after passing
+    through the Canal del Norte a heavy gale obliged us to anchor
+    in Cascaes Bay for the night, not far from a small schooner
+    yacht with three ladies on board. It was
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 486<a name="Page_486"
+       id="Page_486"></a></span>rather rough, and we were very
+       tired, or I think we should have ventured to pay them a
+       visit, even at that late hour. It is absurd to stand upon
+       ceremony when travelling; but I scarcely know what the
+       strict etiquette would be on such an occasion&mdash;whether
+       they, as first anchored in the bay, should call on us, or we
+       on them, as probably the greater travellers and out longer
+       at sea.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Sunday, May 20th</i>.&mdash;Weighed at 5 a.m. There was a
+    dense fog off Cape del Roca, and the steam-whistle, foghorns,
+    and bell were constantly kept going, with lugubrious effect. We
+    had service at eleven and 4.30. Passed the Burlings at 1.30.
+    Heavy swell all day.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Monday, May 21st</i>.&mdash;Rough and disagreeable. Off
+    Viana at noon. Passed Oporto and Vigo in the course of the
+    afternoon.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Tuesday, May 22nd</i>.&mdash;If yesterday was bad, to-day
+    was worse. We hove to for some time under the shelter of Cape
+    Finisterre, then went on again for a short distance; but at
+    1.30 a.m. on the 23rd we were obliged to put round and wait for
+    daylight.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Wednesday, 23rd, and Thursday, 24th</i>.&mdash;In the
+    course of the day the weather mended, though the sea still
+    continued rough, and our course was really in the direction of
+    America rather than England. In the evening of the 24th we were
+    able to light fires, and, with the assistance of steam, to keep
+    nearly on our proper course.</p>
+
+    <p><i>Saturday, May 26th</i>.&mdash;Saw the first English land,
+    the Start, at 2.30 a.m. Wind continued fresh and fair, but at
+    noon dropped calm, and we had to steam through the Needles
+    instead of sailing, as we had done on our way out. We reached
+    Cowes about 3 p.m., and were immediately welcomed by several
+    yachts, who dipped their ensigns and fired their guns. We
+    landed, and were warmly greeted by many friends, and, after
+    sending off telegrams and letters, re-embarked and proceeded
+    towards Hastings. We were anxious to land by daylight, but this
+    was not to be. So it <span class="pagenum">Page
+    487<a name="Page_487"
+       id="Page_487"></a></span>turned out to be midnight before we
+       reached Beachy Head and could discern the lights of Hastings
+       shining in the distance. As we drew near to our anchorage we
+       could see two boats coming swiftly towards us from the
+       shore. The crews were members of the Royal Naval Artillery
+       Volunteers, and as they came alongside they raised a shout
+       of welcome. Hastings had been expecting us all the
+       afternoon, and late as was the hour, 1.30 a.m., we were
+       immediately surrounded by a fleet of boats, and many willing
+       hands seized our heterogeneous cargo and multitudinous
+       packages, and before daylight all had been safely landed on
+       the pier. We committed ourselves to the care of the
+       R.N.A.V., and landed in their boats, and at 4.30, proceeding
+       to the Queen's Hotel, we had a joyous meeting with T.A.B.
+       and Maud.</p>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_502"
+             id="Illus_502"></a> <img src="images/t_502.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="167"
+             alt="Illustration: Our Welcome back off Hastings"
+             title="Illustration: Our Welcome back off Hastings" /><br />
+
+        <b>Our Welcome back off Hastings</b><br />
+        <a href="images/502.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>How can I describe the warm greetings that met us
+    everywhere, or the crowd that surrounded us, not only when we
+    landed, but as we came out of church; how, along the whole ten
+    miles from Hastings to Battle, people were standing by the
+    roadside and at their cottage doors to welcome us; how the
+    Battle bell-ringers never stopped ringing except during service
+    time; or how the warmest of welcomes ended our delightful year
+    of travel and made us <span class="pagenum">Page
+    488<a name="Page_488"
+       id="Page_488"></a></span>feel we were home at last, with
+       thankful hearts for the providential care which had watched
+       over us whithersoever we roamed?</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span>I travell'd among unknown men,<br /></span>
+            <span class="i2">In lands beyond the sea,<br /></span>
+            <span>Nor, England! did I know till then<br /></span>
+            <span class="i2">What love I bore to thee.<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <div class="figcenter">
+        <a name="Illus_503"
+             id="Illus_503"></a> <img src="images/t_503.jpg"
+             width="240"
+             height="197"
+             alt="Illustration: Home at Last"
+             title="Illustration: Home at Last" /><br />
+        <b>Home at Last</b><br />
+        <a href="images/503.gif">View full size illustration.</a>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 489<a name="Page_489"
+       id="Page_489"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="heading"><a name="APPENDIX"
+       id="APPENDIX"></a>APPENDIX.</p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">SUMMARY OF THE ENTIRE VOYAGE.</p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">COMPILED FROM THE LOG-BOOK.</p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 490<a name="Page_490"
+       id="Page_490"></a></span></p>
+
+    <div style="font-size: 95%;">
+        <table border="1"
+               cellpadding="1"
+               cellspacing="0"
+               width="100%"
+               summary="Summary of Entire Voyage, Table 1">
+            <tr>
+                <th colspan="10"
+                    style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;">
+                July 1876.</th>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">July</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Remarks</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Temp.<br />
+                of water</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Temp.<br />
+                of air</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Latitude</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Longitude</td>
+
+                <td colspan="4"
+                    class="ctr">Since previous noon</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Course</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Distance</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Wind and<br />
+                weather</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">Steam</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Sail&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">6</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    style="text-align: left; padding-left: 5px; width: 39%;">
+                Left Cowes, I. of W.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &deg;<br />
+                ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &deg;<br />
+                ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; '<br />
+                ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; '<br />
+                ...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    style="text-align: center; width: 8%;">
+                    Various</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    style="text-align: center; width: 12%;">
+                    ...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">7</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Torbay at 8.30
+                a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">"</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">113</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">8</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Torbay at noon</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">"</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">9</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">48 45 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">4 46 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">"</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">107</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">10</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">46 27 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">6 50 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">"</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">99</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">62</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">11</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Cape Villano, 69 miles, at
+                noon</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">44 16 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">9 10 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SW, &frac34;&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">164</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">12</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Madeira, 513; Torbay, 672
+                miles</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">40 29 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">11 1 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SW by S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">227</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">13</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Madeira, 375 miles</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">38 24 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">12 21 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SW</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">98</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">36</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NNE 26 c.</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">14</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Madeira, 246 miles</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">36 36 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">13 58 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SW, &frac14;&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">40</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">90</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SE 2</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">15</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Porto Santo, 90 miles</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">34 25 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">15 35 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 33&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">29</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">123</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NNE 2. Foggy</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">16</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Madeira (Funchal) at
+                noon</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 31&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">57</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">19</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Madeira at 9.25 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">20</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Tenerife, 163 miles</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">31 11 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">16 45 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 30&deg; E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">20</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 3 to 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">21</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Puerto Orotava at 2.30
+                p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">70</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">69</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">28 38 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">16 42 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 2&deg; E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">144</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">15</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">24</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Puerto Orotava, Tenerife, at
+                noon</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">25</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">70</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">26 53 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">19 11 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">20</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">173</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">26</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">24 45 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">21 0 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 37&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">161</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">27</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">22 27 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">23 4 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 39&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">180</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">28</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">19 48 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">24 14 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 22&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">172</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">29</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">17 26 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">24 55 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 16&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">148</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">30</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Tarafal Bay, St.
+                Antonio, 9 a.m.; left 6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Various</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">15</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">52</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">31</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">14 45 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">25 26 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">120</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">12</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;">
+                Average temperature for the month</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73.2&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72.33&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td colspan="10"
+                    style="height: 2em;">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <th colspan="10"
+                    style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;">
+                August 1876.</th>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Aug.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Remarks</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Temp.<br />
+                of water</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Temp.<br />
+                of air</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Latitude</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Longitude</td>
+
+                <td colspan="4"
+                    class="ctr">Since previous noon</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Course</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Distance</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Wind and<br />
+                weather</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">Steam</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Sail&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">1</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &deg;<br />
+                 79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &deg;<br />
+                 74</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; '<br />
+                 11 59 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; '<br />
+                 25 9 W</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">S, 5&deg; E</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">159</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">13</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">Calm</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">2</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">9 10 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">24 46 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 7&deg; E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">163</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;&nbsp;...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SW by W 2</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">3</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">7 42 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">21 38 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 57&deg; E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">160</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">27</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SSW 7</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">4</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Sierra Leone, 289 miles</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">7 16 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">18 34 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 84&deg; E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;&nbsp;...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">241</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S to SSE 6-7</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">5</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">5 48 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">20 30 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 53&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;&nbsp;...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">139</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">6</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">The warm Guinea and Equatorial
+                currents extend to about<br />
+                7&deg; N, and the latter to about 5&deg; S, of the
+                Equator</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">74</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">3 58 N</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">22 6 W</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">S, 42&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">&nbsp;&nbsp;...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">156</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">S by E 5 to 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">7</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">1 52 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">24 5 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 43&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;&nbsp;...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">179</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S 4 to 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">8</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">St. Paul's Rock, 250 miles.
+                Crossed Equator at 10.30 a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">0 56 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">26 34 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 42&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;&nbsp;...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">225</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SE 6 to 7</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">9</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">4 23 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">28 42 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 32&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;&nbsp;...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">243</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SSE, ESE 7</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">10</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Pernambuco, 270 miles</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">7 35 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">30 19 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 24&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;&nbsp;...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">211</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SE 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">11</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">10 11 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">32 26 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 39&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;&nbsp;...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">200</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SE 4 to 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">12</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Bahia, 300 miles</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">13 1 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">33 51 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 28&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;&nbsp;...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">196</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SE 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">13</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">15 42 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">35 51 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 37&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;&nbsp;...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">202</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SE by S 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">14</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">70.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">17 25 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">37 31 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 43&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;&nbsp;...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">141</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NNE 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">15</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">69.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">19 58 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">38 1 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 11&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;&nbsp;...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">155</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NEly 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">16</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">66</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">22 37 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">40 39 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 45&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;&nbsp;...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">225</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">17</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Rio de Janeiro at 6.15
+                p.m</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">65</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">23 53 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">42 50 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;&nbsp;...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">87</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">WSW 6 to 9</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Average temperature for the
+                month</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75.3&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71.94&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td colspan="10"
+                    style="height: 2em;">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <th colspan="10"
+                    style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;">
+                September 1876.</th>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Sept.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Remarks</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Temp.<br />
+                of water</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Temp.<br />
+                of air</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Latitude</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Longitude</td>
+
+                <td colspan="4"
+                    class="ctr">Since previous noon</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Course</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Distance</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Wind and<br />
+                weather</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">Steam</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Sail&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">5</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    style="text-align: left; padding-left: 5px;">
+                    Left Rio de Janeiro at 6 a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; '<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; '<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">36</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">SSW 2 to 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">6</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">70</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">24 56 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">45 40 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">120</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">32</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">7</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">65</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">26 50 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">47 34 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">136</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 8</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">8</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">68</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">30 30 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">49 4 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 16 &deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">243</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 8 to 9</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">9</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Lobos, WSW, 160 miles</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">57</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">57.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">34 18 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">51 43 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 31 &deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">270</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SW 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">10</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">57</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">58</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">31 48 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">54 13 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 72 &deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">119</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">31</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S by E 6 to 7</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">11</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Monte Video at 4.30
+                a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">60.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">60</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">115</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">12</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Monte Video at 6 a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">119</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 2 to 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">13</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived off Buenos Ayres at 10
+                p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">27</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Buenos Ayres at 11.30
+                a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">62</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">60.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">28</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="lpad5">Rescued crew of
+                    &nbsp;'Monkshaven'</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">53</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">57.5</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">36 57 S</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">55 44 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Various<br />
+                down R.<br />
+                Plate</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">119</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">50</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">WSW to NW 3,<br />
+                WNW 7 to 8</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">29</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">51.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">57</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">38 50 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">57 5 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">53</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">30</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">52</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">51.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">41 00 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">59 50 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 40 &deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">196</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NW by W 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;">
+                Average temperature for the month</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">59.7 &deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">59.78 &deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td colspan="10"
+                    style="height: 2em;">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <th colspan="10"
+                    style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;">
+                October 1876.</th>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Oct.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Remarks</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Temp.<br />
+                of water</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Temp.<br />
+                of air</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Latitude</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Longitude</td>
+
+                <td colspan="4"
+                    class="ctr">Since previous noon</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Course</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Distance</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Wind and<br />
+                weather</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">Steam</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Sail&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">1</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &deg;<br />
+                 50.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &deg;<br />
+                 53</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; '<br />
+                 43 10 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; '<br />
+                 62 28 W</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">S, 45&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">103</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">NW by W 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">2</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">49</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">51</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">45 33 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64 0 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 39&deg;W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">139</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">31</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SW 7 to 8</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">3</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">46</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">49</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">48 31 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">65 9 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 15&deg;W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">65</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">116</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">W by S 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">4</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">43.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">42.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">49 25 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67 17 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">122</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">14</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SE by S 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">5</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Off Cape Virgin at noon. Arrived
+                at Possession Bay<br />
+                at 7.45 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">43.5</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">44</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">52 20 S</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">68 17 W</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">185</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">N by E4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">6</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Possesion Bay at 6 a.m.
+                Arrived at Sandy Point<br />
+                at 2.30 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">52 45 S</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">70 20 W</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">95</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">Light airs, SW6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">8</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Sandy Point at 6 a.m.
+                Arrived at Borja Bay<br />
+                Straits of Magellan, at 6.30 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">46</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">46.2</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">53 53 S</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">71 17 W</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">Various</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">105</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">SE and E 3 to 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">9</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Borja Bay at 6.30 a.m.
+                Arrived at Otter Bay<br />
+                at 6.55 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">45.8</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">45.8</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">52 22 S</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">73 40 W</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">"</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">105</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">10</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Otter Bay at 5 a.m. Arrived
+                at Puerto Bueno<br />
+                at 5.30 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">49</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">48.7</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">51 0 S</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">74 12 W</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">"</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">95</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">11</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Puerto Bueno at 5 a.m.
+                Arrived at Port Grappler<br />
+                at 7 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">49</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">50</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">49 26 S</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">74 20 W</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">"</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">105</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">12</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="lpad5">Left Port Grappler at 5 a.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">51</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">51</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">"</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">60</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">Calm and light<br />
+                southerly winds</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">13</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">52</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">51.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">46 0 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76 23 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">"</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">150</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">25</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NEly 5 to 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">14</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">53.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">52.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">44 55 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76 46 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 14&deg;W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SW 2 to 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">15</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">56</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">55</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">42 47 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76 3 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 14&deg;E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">100</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">32</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Calm, S by E 1-2</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">16</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">57.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">57.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">39 52 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74 42 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 20&deg;E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">152</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">37</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S by E 2 to 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">17</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">59</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">58.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">39 0 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74 38 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 52&deg;E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">28</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NW by W 4 to 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">18</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Lota, Chilli, at 9
+                a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Various</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">144</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Calm &amp; light airs</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">19</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Lota at 2 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">57</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NW by W 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">20</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Valparaiso, 195 miles</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">60.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">57.9</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">36 5 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72 59 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">65</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S by W 5 to 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">21</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Valparaiso at 4
+                p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">33 18 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72 19 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">211</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S by W 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">30</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="lpad5">Left Valparaiso at 3 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Light airs<br />
+                and calms</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">31</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">62.1</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">61</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">32 34 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72 58 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 73&deg;W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NW by N 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;">
+                Average temperature for the month</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">51.7&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">51.5&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+        </table>
+    </div>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 494<a name="Page_494"
+       id="Page_494"></a></span></p>
+
+    <div style="font-size: 95%;">
+        <table border="1"
+               cellpadding="1"
+               cellspacing="0"
+               width="100%"
+               summary="Summary of Entire Voyage, Table 2">
+            <tr>
+                <th colspan="12"
+                    style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;">
+                November 1876.</th>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Nov.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Remarks</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Temp. of water</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Temp. of air</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Latitude</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Longitude</td>
+
+                <td colspan="4"
+                    class="ctr">Since previous noon</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Noon</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Noon</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Course</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Distance</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Wind and<br />
+                weather</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">Steam</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Sail&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">1</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="lpad5">In S. Pacific Ocean</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                63.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                61.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; &nbsp;&nbsp;'<br />
+                31 30 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; &nbsp;&nbsp;'<br />
+                 72 55 W</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">N, 64&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">112</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">W by N 3 to 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">2</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">65.6</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">62.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">30 54 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74 9 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 61&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">111</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">3</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">29 11 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76 15 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 46&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">151</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SSE 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">4</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">68.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">68.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">27 45 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78 55 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 59&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">167</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SE 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">5</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">69.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">66</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">65.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">26 54 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80 48 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 63&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">113</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SE 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">6</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">69.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">68</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">66</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">25 52 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83 10 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 64&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">140</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ESE 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">7</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">70</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">68.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">66.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">24 47 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">85 51 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 66&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">163</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE by E 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">8</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">23 47 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">86 58 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 46&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">107</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NNW 2. Calms</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">9</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">68</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">68.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">21 28 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">88 27 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 31&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">144</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">18</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ESE 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">10</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">69</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">19 12 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">89 48 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 29&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">166</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">E by S 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">11</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">69.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">68.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">17 19 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">91 42 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 44&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">156</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ESE 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">12</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">70</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">16 53 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">94 43 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 82&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">178</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ESE 4 to 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">13</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">70.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">16 56 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">98 17 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 89&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">215</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ESE 7</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">14</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">17 6 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">102 11 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 87&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">217</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">E 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">15</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">16 44 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">105 57 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 86&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">217</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ENE 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">16</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">17 0 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">109 16 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 85&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">199</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ENE</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">17</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75.0</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">17 16 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">112 0 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 84&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">159</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">E to N 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">18</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">16 18 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">114 52 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 70&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">173</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">E 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">19</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">15 38 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">117 52 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 77&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">180</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">20</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">15 19 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">120 17 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 82&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">139</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ENE 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">21</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">15 25 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">122 18 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 87&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">121</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ENE 3 to 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">22</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">15 21 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">124 20 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 88&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">123</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE by E 3 to 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">23</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">15 4 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">126 40 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 83&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">141</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">24</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">15 18 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">129 12 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 85&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">153</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NNE 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">25</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">15 27 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">132 12 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 86&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">160</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">21</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">E 2</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">26</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">15 47 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">135 20 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">142</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">35</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ESE 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">27</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Ditto
+                &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ditto</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">16 54 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">138 9 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">156</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">32</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">28</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="lpad5">Stopped at Bow Island.<br />
+                Low Archipelago, for 3 hours</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">81.8</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">81.6</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">79.6</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">17 55 S</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">140 43 W</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">S, 56&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">20</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">148</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">ESE 4 to 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">29</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">18 41 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">143 7 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">10</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">152</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SE 4 to 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">30</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">18 20 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">145 57 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 79&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">162</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 4 to 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td style="text-align: right;">Average temperature
+                for the month</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr"
+                    colspan="2">76.3&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr"
+                    colspan="2">73.3&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td colspan="12"
+                    style="height: 2em;">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <th colspan="12"
+                    style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;">
+                December 1876.</th>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Dec.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Remarks</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Temp. of water</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Temp. of air</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Latitude</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Longitude</td>
+
+                <td colspan="4"
+                    class="ctr">Since previous noon</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Noon</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Noon</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Course</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Distance</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Wind and<br />
+                weather</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">Steam</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Sail&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">1</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="lpad5">Landed at Maitea at 10 a.m.<br />
+                Left at 3:30 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; &nbsp;&nbsp;'<br />
+                 17 53 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; &nbsp;&nbsp;'<br />
+                 147 55 W</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">W, &frac14;&deg; N</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">139</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">NE 4 to 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">2</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Tahiti at 8 a.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">17</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">98</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE to NW,<br />
+                5 to a calm</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">8</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Tahiti at 6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">9</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">15 28 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">149 24 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">101</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">24</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ENE and E 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">10</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">13 31 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">149 45 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 10&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">124</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE by E 3 to 7</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">11</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">11 0 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">150 3 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">155</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE and NE 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">12</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83.6</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.4</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">9 10 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">149 48 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 8&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">151</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 4 to 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">13</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">5 34 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">150 45 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 15&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">224</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">14</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Crossed Equator at 4.30 a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">2 12 S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">152 18 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 24&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">221</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">15</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">1 10 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">152 3 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 4&deg; E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">203</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE by E 5,<br />
+                SE 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">16</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">3 15 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">151 26 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 17&deg; E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">22</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">109</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SE 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">17</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">To Hilo, 885 Miles</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">5 28 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">150 16 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 58&deg; E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">136</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">15</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">In Doldrums</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">18</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">7 54 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">150 36 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">, 11&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">48</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">105</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 5 to 7</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">19</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">10 22 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">152 37 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">, 22&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">160</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">20</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">13 43 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">152 43 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 18&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">212</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 7</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">21</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">78.2</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">74</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">73.8</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">16 28 N</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">153 28 W</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">N, 5&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">26</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">145</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Lost NE<br />
+                Trades in<br />
+                heavy<br />
+                showers</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">22</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Hilo, Hawaii, at 3.30
+                p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">19 44 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">155 4 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 25&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">202</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">38</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">26</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Hilo at 5.15 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">27</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Honolulu, Oahu, at
+                5.15 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">20 42 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">157 20 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Various</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">200</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;">
+                Average temperature for the month</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80.1&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.4&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td colspan="12"
+                    style="height: 2em;">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <th colspan="12"
+                    style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;">
+                January 1877.</th>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Jan.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Remarks</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Temp. of water</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Temp. of air</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Latitude</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Longitude</td>
+
+                <td colspan="4"
+                    class="ctr">Since previous noon</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Noon</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Noon</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Course</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Distance</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Wind and<br />
+                weather</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">Steam</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Sail&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">3</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="lpad5">Left Honolulu at 5 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; &nbsp;&nbsp;'<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; &nbsp;&nbsp;'<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">ENE 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">4</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.1</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">20 10 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">159 50 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 59&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">65</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">70</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">E by S 6 to 8</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">5</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76.6</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">20 4 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">164 5 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">240</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SE by S 8</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">6</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.1</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">20 3 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">168 53 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">253</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S by E 7 to 9</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">7</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">19 31 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">169 35 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 60&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">120</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N &frac12;, W 9</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">8</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">17 15 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">173 8 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 59&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">244</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N by E 9</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">9</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">16 44 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">177 15 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 82&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">240</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">E by S 2</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">10</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">17 15 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">179 6 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 74&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">20</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">92</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Calms</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">11</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">180&deg; longitude</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">12</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">17 16 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">178 28 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">102</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">38</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S by E 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">13</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">17 19 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">176 29 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">115</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">14</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">To Yokohama, 2,700 miles</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">16 1 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">173 25 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 66&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">98</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">96</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NNE 10</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">15</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">16 2 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">168 15 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">298</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 9</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">16</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80.1</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">16 38 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">163 47 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 82&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">260</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ENE 7</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">17</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">17 3 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">159 37 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 84&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">240</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ENE 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">18</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">17 36 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">155 40 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 82&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">229</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ENE 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">19</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.4</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">18 16 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">153 11 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 74&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">148</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NNE 2</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">20</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">18 57 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">150 23 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 75&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">151</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">13</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N by W 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">21</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">78.2</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">77.2</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">73.5</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">72.3</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">19 36 N</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">147 19 E</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">N, 77&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">128</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">50</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N by W to<br />
+                NNW 4 to 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">22</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">66</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">20 7 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">144 5 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 81&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">185</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NNE 8 to 7</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">23</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">70</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">62.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">61.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">21 52 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">141 39 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 52&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">172</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NNE 5 to 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">24</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">68.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">68</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">61.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">59.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">23 33 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">139 29 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 50&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">158</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 7 to 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">25</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">68</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">59</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">59</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">26 12 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">138 10 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 24&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">174</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ESE 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">26</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">65.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">61</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">59.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">29 23 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">137 33 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 10&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">100</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">94</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">W 9 to 10</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">27</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">51.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">51</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">30 59 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">137 49 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 8 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">94</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NWly 3 to 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">28</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">48.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">46</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">32 40 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">138 35 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 21&deg; E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">108</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">W by N 7</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">29</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Yokohama at 3.30
+                p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">52</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">41.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Various</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">60</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">121</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Gale</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;">
+                Average temperature for the month</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76.8&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">69.7&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <th colspan="12"
+                    style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;">
+                February 1877.</th>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Feb.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Remarks</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Temp. of water</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Temp. of air</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Latitude</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Longitude</td>
+
+                <td colspan="4"
+                    class="ctr">Since previous noon</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Noon</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Noon</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Course</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Distance</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Wind and<br />
+                weather</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">Steam</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Sail&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">2</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="lpad5">Left Yokohama at 6.30 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; &nbsp;&nbsp;'<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; &nbsp;&nbsp;'<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="6"
+                    class="ctr"><br />
+                Various;<br />
+                 steering<br />
+                along<br />
+                the<br />
+                South<br />
+                Coast<br />
+                of<br />
+                Japan</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">3</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">53</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">52</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">41.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">41</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">122</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NW 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">4</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Kobe at 7 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">58</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">46</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">40</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">35.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">178</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NNE 9</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">12</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Kobe at 6 a.m. and returned
+                at 2 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">40</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">15</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Kobe at 4.30 a.m. and
+                anchored at<br />
+                Ino Ura at 8.30 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">46.1</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">45</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">33</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">32.5</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">90</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">W 9</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">16</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Ino Ura at 5 a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">49.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">50</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">39</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">37.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">110</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">17</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Anchored off Isaki lighthouse at
+                4 a.m.<br />
+                Left the anchorage at 8.30 a.m. and<br />
+                arrived at Simoneseki at 11 a.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">50</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">19</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Simoneseki at 8.30 a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">44.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">58</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">34</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">41.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">40</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">20</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">61</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">51</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">46.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">31 16 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">131 54 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">127</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NW by W 9<br />
+                to 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">21</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">69</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">60</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">59.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">29 7 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">129 49 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SW</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">183</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Calm</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">22</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">68.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">62</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">62</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">28 13 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">125 53 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">WSW</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">13</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">208</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ESE</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">23</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">65.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">65.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">27 14 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">123 3 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 63&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">178</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SE</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">24</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">55</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">55</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">51.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">49</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">25 0 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">119 35 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">34</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">183</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 7 to 10</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">25</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">61</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">56.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">22 35 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">115 38 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">288</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 10 to 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">26</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Hongkong at 8
+                a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">61</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">29</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;">
+                Average temperature for the month</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">56.5&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">48&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td colspan="12"
+                    style="height: 2em;">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <th colspan="12"
+                    style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;">
+                March 1877.</th>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Mar.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Remarks</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Temp. of water</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Temp. of air</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Latitude</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Longitude</td>
+
+                <td colspan="4"
+                    class="ctr">Since previous noon</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Noon</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Noon</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Course</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Distance</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Wind and<br />
+                weather</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">Steam</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Sail&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">2</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Hongkong at 7 a.m. Arrived
+                at<br />
+                Macao at 1.30 p.m. Left at 6.30 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 64.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 64.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; &nbsp;&nbsp;'<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; &nbsp;&nbsp;'<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">45</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">8</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">70</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">20 5 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">113 28 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">136</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">9</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">68</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">18 0 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">113 6 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">48</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">E 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">10</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">73</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">15 40 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">113 48 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SSE</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">20</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">128</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">11</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">13 45 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">112 1 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SW by W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">155</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">12</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76.4</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">11 29 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">110 32 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 35&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">170</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">13</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">9 34 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">108 33 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S, 46&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">171</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">14</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77.6</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">7 34 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">107 3 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SW by S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">150</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 3 to 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">15</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">4 46 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">106 16 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S by W, &frac12;&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">176</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">16</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">2 51 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">104 43 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SW, &frac12;&deg; S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">150</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 3 to 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">17</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Singapore at 8
+                a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">72</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 3 to 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">18</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Singapore at 3 p.m.
+                and<br />
+                arrived at Johore at 8 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">19</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Johore at 4 a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">36</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="4"
+                    class="ctr">Calms and<br />
+                light airs<br />
+                from NE</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">20</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Malacca at 8
+                a.m.;<br />
+                left at 11.30a.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">83.2</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">79.5</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">130</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">21</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">88</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">4 4 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">100 30 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">170</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">22</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Penang at 8 a.m.<br />
+                left at 10 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">99</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">23</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">84.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">88.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">5 55 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">98 39 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">109</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">24</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">84.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">84</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">6 10 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">95 5 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">212</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">25</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">85</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">84</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">84.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">6 26 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">91 41 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">208</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">26</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">85.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">84</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">86</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">6 25 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">88 25 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">198</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">27</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">86</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">84.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">87</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">6 4 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">85 3 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">203</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">28</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">85.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">5 33 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81 29 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">218</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">29</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Point de Galle at 7
+                a.m.<br />
+                left at 9.30 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">85</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">30</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Colombo at 11
+                a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">90</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;">
+                Average temperature for the month</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79.4&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.2&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td colspan="12"
+                    style="height: 2em;">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <th colspan="12"
+                    style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;">
+                April 1877.</th>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    style="text-align: center; font-size: 70%;">
+                    April</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Remarks</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Temp. of water</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Temp. of air</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Latitude</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Longitude</td>
+
+                <td colspan="4"
+                    class="ctr">Since previous noon</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Noon</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Noon</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Course</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Distance</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Wind and<br />
+                weather</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">Steam</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Sail&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">5</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="lpad5">Left Colombo Ceylon, at 1.30
+                    p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 85.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 80.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; &nbsp;&nbsp;'<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; &nbsp;&nbsp;'<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">6</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">85.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">85</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80.6</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">7 26 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">77 10 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 81&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">165</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">W 1</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">7</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">86</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">85</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">7 31 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74 7 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 88&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">190</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N 2</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">8</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">85.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">84.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">8 16 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">70 31 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">216</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N 4 to 3</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">9</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">86</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">85</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">8 50 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">66 59 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">W by N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">213</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Calm</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">10</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">85</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">9 38 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63 32 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 77&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">210</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 1 to 2</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">11</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83.6</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">10 27 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">60 1 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">214</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ENE 2</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">12</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.6</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">11 14 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">56 30 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">213</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ENE 3 to 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">13</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">11 38 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">52 57 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 83&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">210</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">14</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">12 33 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">49 43 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">198</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">E 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">15</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Aden at 10p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">79</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">12 55 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">46 17 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 84&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">203</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">16</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Aden at 7 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">17</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Off Island of Perim</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81.7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">105</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">18</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83.4</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">81.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">16 13 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">41 27 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">230</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">19</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">84</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">18 13 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">40 7 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">29</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">116</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">20</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">84</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83.6</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">20 39 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">38 30 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 33&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">149</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">22</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Calms</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">21</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">86.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">83.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">23 33 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">36 50 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 30&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">190</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">22</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">76</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">26 18 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">34 55 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">200</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">23</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">27 13 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">34 5 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NNW</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">24</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">70.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">74</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">28 16 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">33 16 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">89</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">27</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">25</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Suez at 6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">70</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">71.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">22</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">51</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">26</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Suez at 9 a.m. Arrived at
+                Ismailia<br />
+                at 7.15 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">76.5</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">70</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">88</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">83.6</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">50</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">27</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Ismailia at 8 a.m. Arrived
+                at Port<br />
+                Said at 5.30 p.m. left at 9.30 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">76.7</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">90</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="4"
+                    class="ctr">Working to<br />
+                windward<br />
+                under steam<br />
+                and sail</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">50</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">28</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">66.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">66</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">174</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">WNW 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">29</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Alexandria at 4.30
+                a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">117</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">WNW 9 to 7</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;">
+                Average temperature for the month</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">82.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">78</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td colspan="12"
+                    style="height: 2em;">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <th colspan="12"
+                    style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 125%; height: 3em;">
+                May 1877.</th>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">May</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Remarks</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Temp. of water</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Temp. of air</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Latitude</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="3"
+                    class="ctr">Longitude</td>
+
+                <td colspan="4"
+                    class="ctr">Since previous noon</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Noon</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Noon</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Course</td>
+
+                <td colspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Distance</td>
+
+                <td rowspan="2"
+                    class="ctr">Wind and<br />
+                weather</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">Steam</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Sail&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">2</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="lpad5">Left Alexandria at 4.30 a.m</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 68</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 65.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 70</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">F &nbsp;&nbsp;&deg;<br />
+                 64.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; &nbsp;&nbsp;'<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&deg; &nbsp;&nbsp;'<br />
+                 ...</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">WNW</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">28</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">2</td>
+
+                <td valign="bottom"
+                    class="ctr">Calm a.m.</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">3</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">65.2</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">64.3</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">32 30 N</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">28 39 E</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">N, 30&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">32</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">80</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">Fresh to<br />
+                strong NW<br />
+                winds</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">4</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">34 35 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">28 48 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 3&deg; E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">146</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NW 7</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">5</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">65</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">66</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">34 48 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">27 13 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">W, &frac12;&deg; S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">61</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NW 7&amp;calms</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">6</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">62.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">66.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">34 54 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">23 11 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">125</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">75</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ESE 7 &amp; calms</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">7</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63.6</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63.6</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">35 51 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">19 48 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 82&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">46</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">130</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">ESE 2</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">8</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Malta at 6 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">66.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">35 57 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">15 12 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">199</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">16</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N 4 to 7</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">10</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Malta at 8.15 a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">66.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Various</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">20</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">S 2 to 1</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">11</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">70</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">66</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">37 20 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">10 24 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">186</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">7</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SE&amp;calm</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">12</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">69</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">68.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">37 32 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">6 32 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">WNW</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">192</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">13</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">63</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">63</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">67</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">66</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">37 7 N</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">3 3 E</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">S, 82&deg; E</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">173</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SW by W 5<br />
+                to 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">14</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">66.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">65</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">36 50 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">0 20 E</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">W, &frac12;&deg; S</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">163</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">15</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">62</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">62.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">66.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">66</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">36 31 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">3 43 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">W, &frac12;&deg; N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">128</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">35</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">SE 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">16</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Gibraltar at 6:30
+                a.m.<br />
+                left at 7.30 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">48</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">26</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">17</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">67</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">68.2</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">69</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">36 27 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">7 58 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">Various</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">10</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">130</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">E 8; calm</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">18</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Lisbon at 6.30
+                p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">38 27 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">9 26 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">144</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">6</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NNE 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">19</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left Lisbon at 5 p.m., and
+                anchored<br />
+                off Fort St. Julien at 9.15 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">40</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td valign="top"
+                    class="ctr">NNE 7</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">20</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Left anchorage at 5 a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">61.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">64</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">65</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">39 13 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">9 32 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">60</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N 6</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">21</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">60.8</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">59</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">61</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">63.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">41 36 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">9 7 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">145</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">22</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">56.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">57</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">55.5</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">56.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">43 13 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">10 8 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 22&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">54</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">86</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 9</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">23</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">58</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">57</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">57</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">56</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">45 5 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">11 0 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">N, 16&deg; W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">120</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 7 to 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">24</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">56</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">55</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">55</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">54.3</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">46 40 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">8 41 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">149</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">9</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 3 to 5</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">25</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">&nbsp;&nbsp;... ...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">55</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">54</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">48 42 N</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">6 5 W</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">160</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">NE 3 to 4</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">26</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Arrived at Cowes at 1 p.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">230</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">...</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">27</td>
+
+                <td class="lpad5">Hastings 1.30 a.m.</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+
+            <tr>
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td style="text-align: right; padding-right: 5px;">
+                Average temperature for the month</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">65&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">65.1&deg;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+
+                <td class="ctr">&nbsp;</td>
+            </tr>
+        </table>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+    <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 501<a name="Page_501"
+       id="Page_501"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">When we finally sailed from Cowes, on July 6,
+    1876, the list of persons on board the yacht was as
+    follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+    <div class="ind30">
+        <p>THOMAS BRASSEY, <span class="smcap">Esq.,</span> M.P.
+        (Owner)<br />
+        <span class="smcap">Mrs. BRASSEY<br />
+        THOMAS ALLNUTT BRASSEY<br />
+        MABELLE ANNIE BRASSEY<br />
+        MURIEL AGNES BRASSEY<br />
+        MARIE ADELAIDE BRASSEY<br />
+        Hon. A.Y. BINGHAM<br />
+        F. HUBERT FREER, Esq.<br />
+        Commander JAMES BROWN, R.N.<br />
+        Captain SQUIRE T.S. LECKY, R.N.R.<br />
+        HENRY PERCY POTTER, Esq.</span> (Surgeon)</p>
+        <hr style="width: 25%; margin-left: 0%;" />
+
+        <p>ISAIAH POWELL, Sailing Master<br />
+        HENRY KINDRED, Boatswain<br />
+        JOHN RIDGE TEMPLEMAN, Carpenter<br />
+        CHARLES COOK, Signalman and Gunner<br />
+        JAMES ALLEN, Coxswain of the Gig<br />
+        JAMES WALFORD, Captain of the Hold<br />
+        JOHN FALE, Coxswain of the Cutter<br />
+        HENRY PARKER, Second Coxswain of the Gig<br />
+        WILLIAM SEBBORN, A.B.<br />
+        WALTER SEBBORN "<br />
+        TURNER ENNEW "<br />
+        WILLIAM MOULTON, A.B.<br />
+        <span class="pagenum">Page 502<a name="Page_502"
+           id="Page_502"></a></span> ALBERT WISEMAN, "<br />
+        JOHN GREEN, "<br />
+        THOMAS TAYLOR "<br />
+        FREDERICK BUTT "<br />
+        HENRY TICHENER "<br />
+        THOMAS POWELL, Forecastle Cook<br />
+        WILLIAM COLE, Boy</p>
+        <hr style="width: 25%; margin-left: 0%;" />
+
+        <p>ROBERT ROWBOTTOM, Engineer<br />
+        CHARLES McKECHNIE, 2nd ditto<br />
+        THOMAS KIRKHAM, Leading Fireman<br />
+        GEORGE BURREDGE, Fireman</p>
+        <hr style="width: 25%; margin-left: 0%;" />
+
+        <p>GEORGE LESLIE, Steward<br />
+        WILLIAM AINSWORTH, Bedroom Steward<br />
+        FREDERICK PARSONS, Saloon Steward<br />
+        GEORGE BASSETT, 2nd ditto</p>
+        <hr style="width: 25%; margin-left: 0%;" />
+
+        <p>WILLIAM PRYDE, Cook<br />
+        JOSEPH SOUTHGATE, Cook's Mate</p>
+        <hr style="width: 25%; margin-left: 0%;" />
+
+        <p>EMMA ADAMS, Nurse<br />
+        HARRIET HOWE, Lady's Maid<br />
+        MARY PHILLIPS, Stewardess</p>
+    </div>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 503<a name="Page_503"
+       id="Page_503"></a></span> The list of those who were
+       temporarily on board the yacht during the voyage comprised
+       the following persons:&mdash;</p>
+
+    <p>ARRIVALS.<br />
+    <br />
+    CREW OF 'MONKSHAVEN' (15) came on board the 'Sunbeam' Sept.
+    28.<br />
+    ARTHUR TURNER, one of the crew, remained on board the 'Sunbeam
+    ' as an A.B.<br />
+    JOHN SEBBORN, from U.S. 'Ashuelot,' Hongkong.<br />
+    JOHN SHAW (Under-Cook), Hongkong.<br />
+    ISAAC AYAK, Hongkong.<br />
+    JOHN AHANG, Hongkong.<br />
+    MAHOMET. Fireman, Galle.<br />
+    ABRAHAM, Fireman. Galle.<br />
+    TOM DOLLAR, Fireman, Galle.<br />
+    <span class="smcap">Mr. and Mrs.</span> WOODROFFE,
+    Ismailia,<br />
+    (Total, 24.)<br />
+    <br />
+    DEPARTURES.<br />
+    <br />
+    T. ALLNUTT BRASSEY, Rio.<br />
+    CREW OF 'MONKSHAVEN' (14) placed on board the 'Ultimand', Oct.
+    5.<br />
+    <span class="smcap">Captain</span> LECKY, Buenos Ayres.<br />
+    GEO. LESLIE, Ensenada.<br />
+    <span class="smcap">Captain</span> BROWN, Honolulu.<br />
+    WM. PRYDE, Honolulu.<br />
+    JOHN FALE, Malacca.<br />
+    MAHOMET, Fireman, Suez.<br />
+    ABRAHAM, Fireman, Suez.<br />
+    TOM DOLLAR, Fireman, Aden.<br />
+    <span class="smcap">Mr. and Mrs.</span> WOODROFFE, Port
+    Said.<br />
+    (Total, 25.)</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 504<a name="Page_504"
+       id="Page_504"></a></span> Note.&mdash;Many were the
+       preparations to be made before starting on our voyage; the
+       crew had to be selected, we had to decide whether all, any,
+       or none of the children should be taken, what friends we
+       should invite to accompany us, what stores and provisions we
+       should take, and to select from our little fleet of boats
+       those which seemed best suited for the various requirements
+       of the voyage. The whole number comprised</p>
+
+    <div class="blockquot">
+        <p>The 'Gleam,' lifeboat cutter;<br />
+        The 'Glance,' large gig;<br />
+        The 'Ray,' light gig;<br />
+        The 'Trap' (to catch a sunbeam), steam launch;<br />
+        The 'Mote,' dingy;<br />
+        The 'Flash,' light outrigger.</p>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>Of these the 'Trap' and the 'Ray' had to be left behind.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 505<a name="Page_505"
+       id="Page_505"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p class="iheading">LETTER</p>
+
+    <p class="ctr">(From the <i>Times</i> of June 2, 1877).</p>
+
+    <p>To the Editor of the 'Times.'&mdash;Sir,&mdash;Believing it
+    possible that some interest may attach to the voyage completed
+    on May 27 by the arrival of the 'Sunbeam' at Cowes, I venture
+    to offer to your readers a short narrative of our proceedings.
+    The expedition is in some respects unprecedented; a
+    circumnavigation of 35,400 miles has never before been made in
+    the short period of 46 weeks, from which must be deducted 112
+    days of well-earned repose in harbour. We had, it is true, the
+    advantage of steam, without which such a performance would have
+    been an impossibility; but we travelled 20,517 miles under sail
+    alone, and the consumption of coal has not exceeded 350 tons.
+    The 'Sunbeam' sailed from Cowes on July 6, called at Torbay,
+    Madeira, Teneriffe, and the Cape Verde, crossed the Line on
+    August 8, and, carrying a favourable breeze in the south-east
+    trades, without even a momentary lull, a distance of 2,500
+    miles, arrived at Rio Janeiro on August 17. Following the
+    coasts of South America, we visited Montevideo, Buenos Ayres,
+    and Ensenada, steamed through the Straits of Magellan and
+    Smyth's Channel, and reached Valparaiso on October 21.</p>
+
+    <p>While on the coast of Patagonia it was our privilege to
+    rescue a crew of 15 hands from the bark 'Monkshaven,' laden
+    with an inflammable cargo of smelting coals, which had been on
+    fire six days when we most providentially descried her signals
+    of distress.</p>
+
+    <p>On October 30 we commenced our long and lonely voyage of
+    12,330 miles across the Pacific. We touched at Bow Island in
+    the Low Archipelago, Maitea and Tahiti in the Society Islands,
+    and Hawaii and Oahu in the Sandwich group. On January 21 we
+    sighted Assumption in the Ladrones, and on the 29th arrived at
+    Yokohama. While in Japan we were present at the opening of
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 506<a name="Page_506"
+       id="Page_506"></a></span>the railway from Osaka to Kioto by
+       the Mikado, and subsequently cruised in the Inland Sea in
+       severe winterly weather. At Simonoseki we found the people
+       much agitated by the recent outbreak of the Satsuma clan. On
+       February 19 we bade a reluctant farewell to Japan, and
+       following the most direct route to England, visited in
+       succession Hongkong, Canton, Macao, Singapore, Johore,
+       Malacca, Penang, Galle, Colombo, Aden, Alexandria, Malta,
+       Gibraltar, and Lisbon.</p>
+
+    <p>Having given the principal dates, the story of the voyage
+    will be most rapidly completed by entering our successive
+    passages in a tabular statement:</p>
+
+    <table cellspacing="0"
+           cellpadding="5"
+           border="1"
+           summary="Miles under Steam and Sail">
+        <tr>
+            <td rowspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
+
+            <td colspan="3"
+                class="ctr">Miles</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td class="ctr">Steam</td>
+
+            <td class="ctr">Sail</td>
+
+            <td class="ctr">Total</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>Thames and English Channel</td>
+
+            <td class="right">193</td>
+
+            <td class="right">205</td>
+
+            <td class="right">398</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>Torbay to Madeira</td>
+
+            <td class="right">353</td>
+
+            <td class="right">874</td>
+
+            <td class="right">1,227</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>Madeira to Orotava (Teneriffe)</td>
+
+            <td class="right">164</td>
+
+            <td class="right">72</td>
+
+            <td class="right">236</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>Orotava to Tarafal Bay (San Antonio, Cape
+            Verde)</td>
+
+            <td class="right">35</td>
+
+            <td class="right">886</td>
+
+            <td class="right">921</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>Tarafal Bay to Rio Janeiro</td>
+
+            <td class="right">689</td>
+
+            <td class="right">2,647</td>
+
+            <td class="right">3,336</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>Rio to Monte Video and Buenos Ayres</td>
+
+            <td class="right">509</td>
+
+            <td class="right">712</td>
+
+            <td class="right">1,221</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>Buenos Ayres to Possession Bay (Straits of
+            Magellan)</td>
+
+            <td class="right">816</td>
+
+            <td class="right">524</td>
+
+            <td class="right">1,340</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>In Straits of Magellan and Smyth's Channel</td>
+
+            <td class="right">565</td>
+
+            <td class="right">&mdash;</td>
+
+            <td class="right">565</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>To Lota and Valparaiso</td>
+
+            <td class="right">634</td>
+
+            <td class="right">500</td>
+
+            <td class="right">1,134</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>Valparaiso to Yokohama, calling at Hao in the
+            Paumotu<br />
+            Group, Maitea and Tahiti in the Society Islands,
+            and<br />
+            Hawaii and Oahu in the Sandwich Group</td>
+
+            <td class="right">2,108</td>
+
+            <td class="right">10,225</td>
+
+            <td class="right">12,333</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>Yokohama to Kobe and Simonoseki, through the Inland
+            Sea</td>
+
+            <td class="right">653</td>
+
+            <td class="right">&mdash;</td>
+
+            <td class="right">653</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>Simonoseki to Hongkong</td>
+
+            <td class="right">395</td>
+
+            <td class="right">1,015</td>
+
+            <td class="right">1,410</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>Hongkong to Singapore</td>
+
+            <td class="right">312</td>
+
+            <td class="right">1,251</td>
+
+            <td class="right">1,563</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>Singapore to Point de Galle, calling at the Straits
+            Settlements</td>
+
+            <td class="right">1,668</td>
+
+            <td class="right">&mdash;</td>
+
+            <td class="right">1,668</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>Galle to Colombo and Aden</td>
+
+            <td class="right">2,202</td>
+
+            <td class="right">&mdash;</td>
+
+            <td class="right">2,202</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>Aden to Suez</td>
+
+            <td class="right">807</td>
+
+            <td class="right">551</td>
+
+            <td class="right">1,358</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>Suez to Alexandria</td>
+
+            <td class="right">436</td>
+
+            <td class="right">&mdash;</td>
+
+            <td class="right">436</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>Alexandria to Cowes, touching at Malta, Gibraltar,
+            and Lisbon</td>
+
+            <td class="right">2,440</td>
+
+            <td class="right">934</td>
+
+            <td class="right">3,374</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td class="ctr">Total</td>
+
+            <td class="right">14,979</td>
+
+            <td class="right">20,396</td>
+
+            <td class="right">35,375</td>
+        </tr>
+    </table>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<br />
+    Having sketched the voyage in outline, the following details
+    may not be devoid of interest to readers with nautical
+    tastes.</p>
+
+    <p>Every yachtsman should be a lover of sailing. In the cruise
+    of the 'Sunbeam,' although expedition was an essential
+    consideration, steam has been used almost exclusively in calms
+    or in narrow waters, or when, as it has often happened, we have
+    sailed at sunset <span class="pagenum">Page
+    507<a name="Page_507"
+       id="Page_507"></a></span>after a hard day's work on board,
+       intending to make an offing during the night and set sails
+       in the morning.</p>
+
+    <p>Of the total distance of 15,000 knots under steam, 12,000
+    were traversed under those special circumstances which seem to
+    justify even a yachtsman in availing himself of the unromantic
+    but invaluable engine.</p>
+
+    <p>The best run under steam alone was 230 knots, and the most
+    successful continuous performance was on the passage from
+    Penang to Galle, in the week ending April 15, when the
+    'Sunbeam' steamed 1,451 knots, with a daily consumption of
+    4-&frac14; tons of coal.</p>
+
+    <p>The best runs under sail from noon to noon were 298 and 299
+    knots respectively. The first was on the passage from Honolulu
+    to Yokohama, sailing along the 16th parallel of north latitude,
+    and between 163 deg. and 168 deg. 15 min. east. The second was
+    in the Formosa Channel.</p>
+
+    <p>The highest speed ever attained under sail was 15 knots in a
+    squall in the North Pacific.</p>
+
+    <p>On 28 days the distance under sail alone has exceeded, and
+    often considerably exceeded, 200 knots.</p>
+
+    <p>The best consecutive runs under sail only were:&mdash;</p>
+
+    <p>I. Week ending August 13, South Atlantic. In the south-east
+    trades, wind a-beam, force 5&mdash;1,456 knots.</p>
+
+    <p>II. Week ending November 19, South Pacific, south-east
+    trades, wind aft, force 5&mdash;1,360 knots.</p>
+
+    <p>III. Four days, January 15 to 18, North Pacific, north-east
+    trades, wind on the quarter, force 5 to 9&mdash;1,027 knots.
+    The average speed in this case was 107 knots an hour.</p>
+
+    <p>The following were the average speeds of the longer
+    passages:&mdash;</p>
+
+    <table cellspacing="0"
+           cellpadding="6"
+           border="1"
+           summary="Average Speeds of the Sunbeam">
+        <tr>
+            <td colspan="2"
+                rowspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
+
+            <td align="center">Days<br />
+            At<br />
+            Sea</td>
+
+            <td align="center">Total<br />
+            Distance</td>
+
+            <td align="center">Distance<br />
+            Under<br />
+            Steam</td>
+
+            <td align="center">Daily<br />
+            Average</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>&nbsp;</td>
+
+            <td align="center">Miles</td>
+
+            <td align="center">Miles</td>
+
+            <td align="center">Miles</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>&nbsp; 1 &nbsp;</td>
+
+            <td>Cape Verde to Rio</td>
+
+            <td align="center">18</td>
+
+            <td align="center">&nbsp; 3,336</td>
+
+            <td align="center">&nbsp; 689</td>
+
+            <td align="center">185</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>&nbsp; 2 &nbsp;</td>
+
+            <td>Valpraiso and Yokahama</td>
+
+            <td align="center">72</td>
+
+            <td align="center">12,333</td>
+
+            <td align="center">2,108</td>
+
+            <td align="center">171</td>
+        </tr>
+
+        <tr>
+            <td>&nbsp; 3 &nbsp;</td>
+
+            <td>Simonoseki and Aden</td>
+
+            <td align="center">37</td>
+
+            <td align="center">&nbsp; 6,391</td>
+
+            <td align="center">4,577</td>
+
+            <td align="center">187</td>
+        </tr>
+    </table>
+
+    <p><span class="pagenum">Page 508<a name="Page_508"
+       id="Page_508"></a></span></p>
+
+    <p>&nbsp;<br />
+    The vessel which has carried us so rapidly and safely round the
+    globe claims a brief description. She was designed by Mr. St.
+    Clare Byrne, of Liverpool, and may be technically defined as a
+    composite three-masted topsail-yard screw schooner. The
+    engines, by Messrs. Laird, are of 70 nominal or 350 indicated
+    horse-power, and developed a speed of 10.13 knots on the
+    measured mile. The bunkers contain 80 tons of coal. The average
+    daily consumption is four tons, and the speed eight knots in
+    fine weather. The principal dimensions of the hull
+    are;&mdash;Length for tonnage, 157 ft.; beam, extreme, 27 ft. 6
+    in.; displacement tonnage, 531 tons; area of midship section,
+    202 square feet.</p>
+
+    <p>With an addition of 20 ft. to the length, and more engine
+    power, the 'Sunbeam' presents a type which might be found
+    efficient for naval services in distant waters, where good
+    sailing qualities are essential, and large ships are not
+    required.</p>
+
+    <p>On looking back, and contrasting the anticipated
+    difficulties with the actual experiences of the voyage, the
+    ease and certainty with which every passage has been made are
+    truly surprising. Our track has been for the most part within
+    the Tropics. The storms off the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Horn
+    have been avoided in the inland passages of the Straits of
+    Magellan and the Suez Canal. We have encountered no continuous
+    stormy weather, except during the four days preceding our
+    arrival at Yokohama. We have suffered discomfort from heat and
+    detention in calms, but storms have disturbed us seldom, and
+    they have not lasted long.</p>
+
+    <p>Our experience of gales include a north-east gale off Cape
+    Finisterre, on the outward voyage; a northerly gale between Rio
+    and the River Plate, a westerly gale off the east coast of
+    Patagonia, short but severe gales on each of the four days
+    preceding our arrival at Yokohama, a severe gale from the
+    north-west in the Inland Sea, a north-east gale in the Formosa
+    Channel, a northerly gale in the Straits of Jubal, a westerly
+    gale off Port Said, and an easterly gale on the south coast of
+    Candia. On the passage homewards from Gibraltar we met strong
+    northerly winds on the coast of Portugal, and a north-east gale
+    off Cape Finisterre.</p>
+
+    <p>The navigation has presented few difficulties. All the
+    coasts <span class="pagenum">Page 509<a name="Page_509"
+       id="Page_509"></a></span>that we have visited have been
+       surveyed. Lighthouses are now as numerous and efficient on
+       the coasts of China and Japan as on the shores of Europe.
+       Such is the perfection of the modern chronometer, that lunar
+       observations, the only difficult work in ocean navigation,
+       are no longer necessary; and the wind charts published by
+       the Admiralty supply to the amateur navigator accumulated
+       information and valuable hints for every stage of his
+       voyage.</p>
+
+    <p>How infinitely easy is the task of the modern
+    circumnavigator compared with the hazardous explorations of
+    Magelhaens and Captain Cook, when the chronometer was an
+    instrument of rude and untrustworthy quality, when there were
+    no charts, and the roaring of the breakers in the dead of night
+    was the mariner's first warning that a coral reef was near!</p>
+
+    <p>Our comprehensive and varied cruise has strengthened my
+    former convictions that the disasters due to negligence bear a
+    large proportion to the number of inevitable losses. Every
+    coast is dangerous to the careless commander; but there are no
+    frequented seas where, with the exercise of caution and
+    reasonable skill, the dangers cannot be avoided. These remarks
+    do not, of course, apply to cases of disaster from stress of
+    weather. In fogs there must be delay, though not necessarily
+    danger.</p>
+
+    <p>In these days of lamentation over the degeneracy of the
+    British seaman, my experience may be accepted as a contribution
+    to the mass of evidence on this vexed question. I have not been
+    surrounded by such smart seamen as can only be found on a
+    man-of-war, but I have no ground for general or serious
+    complaint. Many of my crew have done their duty most
+    faithfully. In emergencies everybody has risen to the occasion,
+    and has done best when his skill or endurance was most severely
+    tried&mdash;</p>
+
+    <div class="poem">
+        <div class="stanza">
+            <span>'My mariners,<br /></span> <span>Souls that have
+            toiled and wrought and thought with me,<br /></span>
+            <span>That ever with a frolic welcome took<br /></span>
+            <span>The thunder and the sunshine.'<br /></span>
+        </div>
+    </div>
+
+    <p>It is always in stormy weather that the good qualities of
+    the British seaman are displayed to the greatest advantage. The
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 510<a name="Page_510"
+       id="Page_510"></a></span>difficulty is to keep up his
+       interest and energies in long intervals of fine weather,
+       when nothing occurs to rouse him to an effort, and the
+       faculties of the seaman before the mast, no less than those
+       of his officer, are benumbed by the monotony and isolation
+       from mankind, which are the gravest drawbacks of a sailor's
+       life. It is in these dull moments that men are tempted to
+       drink and quarrel, that officers become tyrannical, and
+       their crews insubordinate, or even mutinous. Lest it should
+       be thought that my impressions of the average sailor are
+       derived from an exceptional crew or picked men, I have only
+       to add that the manning of the 'Sunbeam' was a family job.
+       The sailing master was related by blood or marriage to the
+       majority of his subordinates&mdash;fishermen from the coast
+       of Essex, who had received their early training among the
+       banks and shoals at the mouth of the Thames.</p>
+
+    <p>In this connection I tender my sincere tribute of praise to
+    the officers of the Navy for their success in maintaining the
+    efficiency and spirit of their crews through long commissions
+    on foreign stations, much time being necessarily spent in
+    harbour, in many cases in the most enervating climates. The
+    discipline of the service seems to be admirable, and the seamen
+    are reconciled to it by tradition, by early training, and
+    perhaps by an instinctive perception of its necessity.</p>
+
+    <p>I am equally bound to commend the efficiency of our consular
+    service in the remotest outposts of civilisation which we have
+    visited; and evidences of good colonial administration are
+    abundantly manifest in Hongkong, Singapore, Penang, Ceylon, and
+    Aden, in the prosperity and contentment of the people.</p>
+
+    <p>It is scarcely necessary to observe, in conclusion, that
+    experiences may be gathered in a voyage of circumnavigation
+    which are not to be gleaned from Blue-books or from shorter
+    cruises in European waters. A more vivid impression is formed
+    of the sailor's daily life, of his privations at sea, and his
+    temptations on shore. The services required of the Navy are
+    more clearly appreciated after a visit to distant foreign
+    stations.</p>
+
+    <p>Such a voyage is, indeed, a serious effort. It demands many
+    <span class="pagenum">Page 511<a name="Page_511"
+       id="Page_511"></a></span> laborious days and anxious nights
+       of watching. For my safe return to 'those pale, those
+       white-faced shores,' so welcome to the homeward-bound,
+       accompanied, happily, by the adventurous little family who
+       have taken part in the expedition, I am truly thankful.</p>
+
+    <p>I am, Sir, your obedient servant,</p>
+
+    <p>THOMAS BRASSEY.</p>
+
+    <p>COWES</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE IN THE 'SUNBEAM'***</p>
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@@ -0,0 +1,16668 @@
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Voyage in the 'Sunbeam', by Annie Allnut
+Brassey
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: A Voyage in the 'Sunbeam'
+
+Author: Annie Allnut Brassey
+
+Release Date: January 31, 2005  [eBook #14836]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE IN THE 'SUNBEAM'***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Suzanne Shell, Ronald Holder, and the Project Gutenberg
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 14836-h.htm or 14836-h.zip:
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/4/8/3/14836/14836-h/14836-h.htm)
+      or
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/4/8/3/14836/14836-h.zip)
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+   1. The first page of Chapter VIII: the last line of text was
+      partially missing, and a best guess was made on a few words.
+
+   2. Page 72: Typograpical error, 'nndertaking' changed to
+      'undertaking'.
+
+   3. Page 55, paragraph starting "Santa Anna", corrected 'past'
+      to 'part'.
+
+
+
+
+
+A VOYAGE IN THE 'SUNBEAM'
+
+Our Home on fhe Ocean for Eleven Months
+
+by
+
+MRS. BRASSEY
+
+Illustrated
+
+Chicago:
+Belford, Clarke & Co.
+
+1881
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: CAPE BRASSEY: SMYTHS SOUND]
+
+
+
+
+DEDICATION
+
+To the friends in many climes and countries, of the white and coloured
+races, and of every grade in society, who have made our year of travel
+a year of happiness, these pages are dedicated by the ever grateful
+Author
+
+[Illustration: Portrait of the Author]
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+This volume needs no elaborate preface. A general sketch of the voyage
+which it describes was published in the 'Times' immediately after our
+return to England. That letter is reprinted here as a convenient
+summary of the 'Sunbeam's' performances. But these prefatory lines
+would indeed be incomplete if they did not contain a well-deserved
+tribute to the industry and accuracy of the author. The voyage would
+not have been undertaken, and assuredly it would never have been
+completed, without the impulse derived from her perseverance and
+determination. Still less would any sufficient record of the scenes
+and experiences of the long voyage have been preserved had it not been
+for her painstaking desire not only to see everything thoroughly, but
+to record her impressions faithfully and accurately. The practised
+skill of a professional writer cannot reasonably be expected in these
+simple pages, but their object will have been attained if they are the
+means of enabling more home-keeping friends to share in the keen
+enjoyment of the scenes and adventures they describe.
+
+THOMAS BRASSEY
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+CHAPTER
+
+     I. FAREWELL TO OLD ENGLAND
+
+    II. MADEIRA, TENERIFFE, AND CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS
+
+   III. PALMA TO RIO DE JANEIRO
+
+    IV. RIO DE JANEIRO
+
+     V. THE RIVER PLATE
+
+    VI. LIFE ON THE PAMPAS
+
+   VII. MORE ABOUT THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC
+
+  VIII. RIVER PLATE TO SANDY POINT, STRAITS OF MAGELLAN
+
+    IX. SANDY POINT TO LOTA BAY
+
+     X. CHILI
+
+    XI. SANTIAGO AND VALPARAISO
+
+   XII. VALPARAISO TO TAHITI
+
+  XIII. THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS
+
+   XIV. AT TAHITI
+
+    XV. TAHITI TO SANDWICH ISLANDS--KILAUEA BY DAY AND BY NIGHT
+
+   XVI. HAWAIIAN SPORTS
+
+  XVII. HONOLULU--DEPARTURE FOR JAPAN
+
+ XVIII. HONOLULU TO YOKOHAMA
+
+   XIX. YOKOHAMA
+
+    XX. KIOTO, LATE MIACO
+
+   XXI. THE INLAND SEA
+
+  XXII. TO CANTON UP THE PEARL RIVER
+
+ XXIII. FROM MACAO TO SINGAPORE
+
+  XXIV. SINGAPORE
+
+   XXV. CEYLON
+
+  XXVI. TO ADEN
+
+ XXVII. VIA SUEZ CANAL
+
+XXVIII. 'HOME'
+
+APPENDIX
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+WOODCUTS IN TEXT.
+
+CAPE BRASSEY: SMYTH'S SOUND
+
+PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR
+
+SUNSET ON SOUTHAMPTON WATER
+
+NEARLY OVERBOARD
+
+THE DERELICT 'CAROLINA' LADEN WITH PORT WINE
+
+OUR FIRST VIEW OF MADEIRA
+
+MADEIRA FISH-CARRIER
+
+A COZY CORNER
+
+A PALM-TREE IN A GARDEN, OROTAVA, TENERIFFE
+
+TARAFAL BAY, ST. ANTONIO
+
+FATHER NEPTUNE
+
+HIS DOCTOR (CROSSING THE LINE)
+
+LULU AND HER PUPPIES
+
+VESPERS
+
+BOTAFOGO BAY
+
+THE SLAVE VILLAGE, FAZENDA, SANTA ANNA
+
+THE THREE NAVIGATORS
+
+PRAIRIE DOGS AND OWLS
+
+DEVIL'S HORNS
+
+LA CALERA
+
+INDIANS AT AZUL
+
+LASSOING HORSES
+
+'MONKSHAVEN' ON FIRE
+
+SHIPWRECKED CREW COMING ON BOARD
+
+FUEGIAN WEAPONS
+
+FUEGIAN BOW AND ARROWS
+
+PIN FOR FASTENING CLOAK, MADE FROM A DOLLAR BEATEN OUT
+
+FUEGIAN BOAT AND OARS
+
+BARTERING WITH FUEGIANS
+
+THORNTON PEAKS
+
+GLACIERS, SNOWY SOUND
+
+UNFIT BAY
+
+TWO-PEAKED MOUNTAIN
+
+INDIAN REACH
+
+CATCHING CAPE-PIGEONS IN THE GULF OF PENAS
+
+CHILIANS WAITING FOR THE TRAIN
+
+A FELLOW PASSENGER
+
+BATHS OF CAUQUENES
+
+UP THE VALLEY TOWARDS THE ANDES
+
+CACTI OF THE CORDILLERA
+
+HUASSO HUTS
+
+HUASSO OF CHILI
+
+MORNING MASS AT SANTIAGO
+
+WHAT MAKES HORSES GO IN CHILI
+
+JUVENILE SCRUBBERS
+
+CONVERSATION AT SEA
+
+INSCRIPTION FROM EASTER ISLAND
+
+TATAKOTOROA OR CLARKE ISLAND
+
+GOING UP THE MAST IN A CHAIR
+
+CHILDREN LOOKING UP
+
+OUR FIRST LANDING IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC, HAO OR BOW ISLAND
+
+MAITEA
+
+MAITEAN BOATMAN
+
+QUARANTINE ISLAND, PAPEETE
+
+UNDER THE TREES, PAPEETE
+
+CHAETODON TRICOLOR
+
+CHAETODON PLAGMANCE
+
+WATERFALL AT FAATAUA
+
+A TAHITIAN LADY
+
+TROPIC FEATHERS
+
+CHAETODON BESANTII
+
+TATTOO IN THE TROPICS
+
+FEATHER NECKLACE
+
+WAR NECKLACE
+
+ANCIENT WAR MASKS AND COSTUMES FROM THE MUSEUM AT HONOLULU
+
+CHALCEDON IMPERATOR
+
+FEATHERED CLOAK AND HELMETS
+
+THE PALI-OAHU
+
+ZEUS CILIARIS
+
+AMATEUR NAVIGATION
+
+LITTLE REDCAP
+
+JAPANESE BOATS
+
+FUJIYAMA, JAPAN
+
+A DRAG ACROSS THE SAND IN A JINRIKISHA
+
+INOSHIMA BY A JAPANESE ARTIST
+
+JAPANESE BOATMAN
+
+FACSIMILE OF OUR LUNCHEON BILL
+
+A FAMILY GROUP
+
+WAYSIDE TRAVELLERS
+
+ARRIMA. THE VILLAGE OF BAMBOO BASKET WORK
+
+YOKEN SAN OR SACRED MOUNTAIN, INLAND SEA
+
+HURUSIMA, INLAND SEA
+
+HOW WE WERE BOARDED BY CHINESE AND DISPERSED THEM
+
+CHINESE VISITING CARDS
+
+PEARL RIVER
+
+BOGUE FORTS
+
+CHINESE PAGODA AND BOATS
+
+THE FRENCH CONSULATE, CANTON
+
+CHINESE FOOT AND BOOT
+
+MAHARAJAH OF JOHORE'S HOUSE
+
+THE PET MANIS
+
+MALACCA
+
+HOW THE JOURNAL WAS WRITTEN
+
+PEACOCK MOUNTAIN, CEYLON
+
+SOUMALI INDIAN, ADEN
+
+STRAITS OF BAB-EL-MANDEB
+
+BEATING UP THE RED SEA
+
+HOMEWARD BOUND
+
+FALDETTA, MALTA
+
+ARMOURY IN THE GOVERNOR'S PALACE, VALETTA
+
+TANGIER
+
+VASCO DA GAMA
+
+BELEM CLOISTER GARDENS
+
+OUR WELCOME BACK OFF HASTINGS
+
+HOME AT LAST
+
+
+
+
+NOTE.
+
+I have to thank Mr. W. Simpson, author of 'Meeting the Sun,' for the
+passages given on pages 341 to 343 referring to the Japanese temples
+and their priesthood.
+
+The vessel which has carried us so rapidly and safely round the globe
+claims a brief description. She was designed by Mr. St. Clare Byrne,
+of Liverpool and may be technically defined as a screw composite
+three-masted topsail-yard schooner. The engines, by Messrs. Laird, are
+of 70 nominal or 350 indicated horse-power, and developed a speed of
+10.13 knots at the measured mile. The bunkers contain 80 tons of coal.
+The average daily consumption is 4 tons, and the speed 8 knots in fine
+weather. The principal dimensions of the hull are--length for tonnage,
+157 ft.; beam extreme, 27 ft. 6 in.; displacement tonnage, 531 tons;
+area of midship section, 202 sq. ft.
+
+A. B.
+
+[Illustration: Sunset on Southampton Water.]
+
+
+
+
+A VOYAGE IN THE 'SUNBEAM'.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+FAREWELL TO OLD ENGLAND.
+
+
+    _Masts, spires, and strand receding on the right,_
+    _The glorious main expanding on the bow._
+
+At noon on July 1st, 1876, we said good-bye to the friends who had
+come to Chatham to see us off, and began the first stage of our voyage
+by steaming down to Sheerness, saluting our old friend the 'Duncan,'
+Admiral Chads's flagship, and passing through a perfect fleet of craft
+of all kinds. There was a fresh contrary wind, and the Channel was as
+disagreeable as usual under the circumstances. Next afternoon we were
+off Hastings, where we had intended to stop and dine and meet some
+friends; but, unfortunately the weather was not sufficiently
+favourable for us to land; so we made a long tack out to sea, and, in
+the evening, found ourselves once more near the land, off Beachy Head.
+While becalmed off Brighton, we all--children included--availed
+ourselves of the opportunity to go overboard and have our first swim,
+which we thoroughly enjoyed. We had steam up before ten, and again
+proceeded on our course. It was very hot, and sitting under the awning
+turned out to be the pleasantest occupation. The contrast between the
+weather of the two following days was very great, and afforded a
+forcible illustration of the uncertainties, perhaps the fascinations,
+of yachting. We steamed quietly on, past the 'Owers' lightship, and
+the crowds of yachts at Ryde, and dropped anchor off Cowes at six
+o'clock.
+
+On the morning of the 6th a light breeze sprang up, and enabled us to
+go through the Needles with sails up and funnel down, a performance of
+which all on board felt very proud, as many yachtsmen had pronounced
+it to be an impossibility for our vessel to beat out in so light a
+breeze.
+
+We were forty-three on board, all told, as will be seen by reference
+to the list I have given. We had with us, besides, two dogs, three
+birds, and a charming Persian kitten belonging to the baby. The kitten
+soon disappeared, and it was feared she must have gone overboard down
+the hawse pipe. There was a faint hope, however, that she might have
+been packed away with the new sails, which had been stowed in a great
+hurry the day before. Unhappily she was never found again, and the
+children were inconsolable until they discovered, at Torquay, an
+effective substitute for 'Lily.'
+
+The Channel was tolerably smooth outside the Isle of Wight, and during
+the afternoon we were able to hold on our course direct for Ushant.
+After midnight, however, the wind worked gradually round to the
+W.S.W., and blew directly in our teeth. A terribly heavy sea got up;
+and, as we were making little or no progress, it was decided to put
+in to Torquay or Dartmouth, and there await a change. We anchored in
+Torbay, about half a mile from the pier, at 8.30 a.m., and soon
+afterwards went ashore to bathe. We found, however, that the high
+rocks which surround the snug little bathing cove made the water as
+cold as ice.
+
+Nothing more having been heard of our poor little kitten, we can only
+conclude that she has gone overboard. Just as we were leaving the
+railway-station, however, we saw a small white kitten with a blue
+ribbon round its neck; and all the children at once exclaimed,
+'There's our Lily!' We made inquiries, and found that it belonged to
+the young woman at the refreshment room, who, after some demur,
+allowed us to take it away with us, in compliance with Muriel's
+anxious wish, expressed on her face.
+
+About ten o'clock we got under way, but lay-to for breakfast. We then
+had a regular beat of it down Channel--everybody being ill. We formed
+a melancholy-looking little row down the lee side of the ship, though
+I must say that we were quite as cheery as might have been expected
+under the circumstances. It was bright and sunny overhead, which made
+things more bearable.
+
+_Sunday, July 9th_.--A calm at 2 a.m. Orders were given to get up
+steam; but the new coals from Chatham were slow to light, though good
+to keep up steam when once fairly kindled. For four long hours,
+therefore, we lolloped about in the trough of a heavy sea, the sails
+flapping as the vessel rolled. By the time the steam was up so was the
+breeze--a contrary one, of course. We accordingly steamed and sailed
+all day, taking more water on board, though not really in any great
+quantity, than I had ever seen the good ship do before. She carries a
+larger supply of coal and other stores than usual, and no doubt the
+square yards on the foremast make her pitch more heavily. We were all
+very sorry for ourselves, and 'church,' postponed from eleven until
+four o'clock, brought together but a small congregation.
+
+On the 8th we were fairly away from Old England, and on the next day
+off Ushant, which we rounded at about 4.30 p.m., at the distance of a
+mile and a half; the sea was tremendous, the waves breaking in columns
+of spray against the sharp needle-like rocks that form the point of
+the island. The only excitement during the day was afforded by the
+visit of a pilot-boat (without any fish on board), whose owner was
+very anxious to take us into Brest, 'safe from the coming storm,'
+which he predicted. In addition to our other discomforts, it now
+rained hard; and by half-past six I think nearly all our party had
+made up their minds that bed would be the most comfortable place.
+
+Two days later we sailed into lovely, bright, warm, sunny weather,
+with a strong north-easterly breeze, a following sea, and an
+occasional long roll from the westward. But as the sun rose, the wind
+increased, and we got rather knocked about by the sea. A good deal of
+water came on board, and it was impossible to sit anywhere in comfort,
+unless lashed or firmly wedged in. We were, however, going ten knots
+through the water, on our course, under our new square head canvas;
+and this fact made up for a good deal of discomfort.
+
+The thirty extra tons of spare sails, spars, and provisions, the
+fifteen tons of water, and the eighty-four tons of coal, made a great
+difference in our buoyancy, and the sea came popping in and out at the
+most unexpected places; much to the delight of the children, who, with
+bare feet and legs, and armed with mops and sponges, waged mimic war
+against the intruder and each other, singing and dancing to their
+hearts' content. This amusement was occasionally interrupted by a
+heavier roll than usual, sending them all into the lee scuppers,
+sousing them from head to foot, and necessitating a thorough change of
+clothing, despite their urgent protest that sea-water never hurt
+anybody.
+
+After our five o'clock dinner, however, we very nearly met with a
+most serious accident. We were all sitting or standing about the stern
+of the vessel, admiring the magnificent dark blue billows following
+us, with their curling white crests, mountains high. Each wave, as it
+approached, appeared as if it must overwhelm us, instead of which, it
+rushed grandly by, rolling and shaking us from stem to stern, and
+sending fountains of spray on board.
+
+[Illustration: Nearly Overboard.]
+
+Tom was looking at the stern compass, Allnutt being close to him. Mr.
+Bingham and Mr. Freer were smoking, half-way between the quarter-deck
+and the after-companion, where Captain Brown, Dr. Potter, Muriel, and
+I, were standing. Captain Lecky, seated on a large coil of rope,
+placed on the box of the rudder, was spinning Mabelle a yarn. A new
+hand was steering, and just at the moment when an unusually big wave
+overtook us, he unfortunately allowed the vessel to broach-to a
+little. In a second the sea came pouring over the stern, above
+Allnutt's head. The boy was nearly washed overboard, but he managed to
+catch hold of the rail, and, with great presence of mind, stuck his
+knees into the bulwarks. Kindred, our boatswain, seeing his danger,
+rushed forward to save him, but was knocked down by the return wave,
+from which he emerged gasping. The coil of rope, on which Captain
+Lecky and Mabelle were seated, was completely floated by the sea.
+Providentially, however, he had taken a double turn round his wrist
+with a reefing point, and, throwing his other arm round Mabelle, held
+on like grim death; otherwise nothing could have saved them. She was
+perfectly self-possessed, and only said quietly, 'Hold on, Captain
+Lecky, hold on!' to which he replied, 'All right.' I asked her
+afterwards if she thought she was going overboard, and she answered,
+'I did not _think_ at all, mamma, but felt sure we were gone.' Captain
+Lecky, being accustomed to very large ships, had not in the least
+realised how near we were to the water in our little vessel, and was
+proportionately taken by surprise. All the rest of the party were
+drenched, with the exception of Muriel, whom Captain Brown held high
+above the water in his arms, and who lost no time in remarking, in the
+midst of the general confusion, 'I'm not at all wet, I'm not.'
+Happily, the children don't know what fear is. The maids, however,
+were very frightened, as some of the sea had got down into the
+nursery, and the skylights had to be screwed down. Our studding-sail
+boom, too, broke with a loud crack when the ship broached-to, and the
+jaws of the fore-boom gave way.
+
+Soon after this adventure we all went to bed, full of thankfulness
+that it had ended as well as it did; but, alas, not, so far as I was
+concerned, to rest in peace. In about two hours I was awakened by a
+tremendous weight of water suddenly descending upon me and flooding
+the bed. I immediately sprang out, only to find myself in another pool
+on the floor. It was pitch dark, and I could not think what had
+happened; so I rushed on deck, and found that, the weather having
+moderated a little, some kind sailor, knowing my love of fresh air,
+had opened the skylight rather too soon; and one of the angry waves
+had popped on board, deluging the cabin.
+
+I got a light, and proceeded to mop up, as best I could, and then
+endeavoured to find a dry place to sleep in. This, however, was no
+easy task, for my own bed was drenched, and every other berth
+occupied. The deck, too, was ankle-deep in water, as I found when I
+tried to get across to the deck-house sofa. At last I lay down on the
+floor, wrapped up in my ulster, and wedged between the foot stanchion
+of our swing bed and the wardrobe athwart-ship; so that as the yacht
+rolled heavily, my feet were often higher than my head. Consequently,
+what sleep I snatched turned into nightmare, of which the fixed idea
+was a broken head from the three hundredweight of lead at the bottom
+of our bed, swinging wildly from side to side and up and down, as the
+vessel rolled and pitched, suggesting all manner of accidents. When
+morning came at last, the weather cleared a good deal, though the
+breeze continued. All hands were soon busily employed in repairing
+damages; and very picturesque the deck and rigging of the 'Sunbeam'
+looked, with the various groups of men, occupied upon the ropes,
+spars, and sails. Towards evening the wind fell light, and we had to
+get up steam. The night was the first really warm one we had enjoyed,
+and the stars shone out brightly. The sea, which had been of a lovely
+blue colour during the day, showed a slight phosphorescence after
+dark.
+
+_Thursday, July 13th_.--When I went on deck, at half-past six, I found
+a grey, steamy, calm morning, promising a very hot day, without wind.
+
+About 10.30 a.m., the cry of 'Sail on the port beam!' caused general
+excitement, and in a few minutes every telescope and glass in the ship
+had been brought to bear upon the object which attracted our
+attention, and which was soon pronounced to be a wreck. Orders were
+given to starboard the helm, and to steer direct for the vessel; and
+many were the conjectures hazarded, and the questions asked of the
+fortunate holders of glasses. 'What is she?' 'Is there any one on
+board?' 'Where does she come from?' 'Can you read her name?' 'Does she
+look as if she had been long abandoned?' Soon we were near enough to
+send a boat's crew on board, whilst we watched their movements
+anxiously from the bridge. We could now read her name--the
+'Carolina'--surmounted by a gorgeous yellow decoration on her stern.
+She was of between two and three hundred tons burden, and was painted
+a light blue, with a red streak. Beneath her white bowsprit the gaudy
+image of a woman served as a figure-head. The two masts had been
+snapped short off about three feet from the deck, and the bulwarks
+were gone, only the covering board and stanchions remaining, so that
+each wave washed over and through her. The roof and supports of the
+deck-house and the companions were still left standing, but the sides
+had disappeared, and the ship's deck was burst up in such a manner as
+to remind one of a quail's back.
+
+We saw the men on board poking about, apparently very pleased with
+what they had found; and soon our boat returned to the yacht for some
+breakers,[1] as the 'Carolina' had been laden with port wine and cork,
+and the men wished to bring some of the former on board. I changed my
+dress, and, putting on my sea boots, started for the wreck.
+
+[Footnote 1: Small casks, used for carrying water in boats, frequently
+spelt _barricos_, evidently from the time of the old Spanish
+navigators.]
+
+[Illustration: The Derelict 'Carolina' laden with Port Wine]
+
+We found the men rather excited over their discovery. The wine must
+have been _very_ new and _very_ strong, for the smell from it, as it
+slopped about all over the deck, was almost enough to intoxicate
+anybody. One pipe had already been emptied into the breakers and
+barrels, and great efforts were made to get some of the casks out
+whole; but this was found to be impossible, without devoting more time
+to the operation than we chose to spare. The men managed to remove
+three half-empty casks with their heads stove in, which they threw
+overboard, but the full ones would have required special appliances to
+raise them through the hatches. It proved exceedingly difficult to get
+at the wine, which was stowed underneath the cork, and there was also
+a quantity of cabin bulkheads and fittings floating about, under the
+influence of the long swell of the Atlantic. It was a curious sight,
+standing on the roof of the deck-house, to look into the hold, full of
+floating bales of cork, barrels, and pieces of wood, and to watch the
+sea surging up in every direction, through and over the deck, which
+was level with the water's edge. I saw an excellent modern iron
+cooking-stove washing about from side to side; but almost every other
+moveable article, including spars and ropes, had apparently been
+removed by previous boarders.
+
+It would have delayed us too long to tow the vessel into the nearest
+port, 375 miles distant, or we might have claimed the salvage money,
+estimated by the experts at 1,500_l_. She was too low in the water for
+it to be possible for us, with our limited appliances, to blow her up;
+so we were obliged to leave her floating about as a derelict, a
+fertile source of danger to all ships crossing her track. With her
+buoyant cargo, and with the trade winds slowly wafting her to smoother
+seas, it may probably be some years before she breaks up. I only hope
+that no good ship may run full speed on to her, some dark night, for
+the 'Carolina' would prove almost as formidable an obstacle as a
+sunken rock.
+
+Tom was now signalling for us to go on board again, and for a few
+minutes I was rather afraid we should have had a little trouble in
+getting the men off, as their excitement had not decreased; but after
+a trifling delay and some rather rough play amongst themselves, they
+became steady again, and we returned to the yacht with our various
+prizes.
+
+A 'Mother Carey's chicken' hovered round the wreck while we were on
+board, and followed us to the 'Sunbeam;' and although a flat calm and
+a heavy swell prevailed at the time, we all looked upon our visitor as
+the harbinger of a breeze. In this instance, at least, the well-known
+sailor's superstition was justified; for, before the evening, the wind
+sprang up, and 'fires out and sails up' was the order of the day. We
+were soon bowling merrily along at the rate of seven knots an hour,
+while a clear starlight night and a heavy dew gave promise of a fine
+morrow.
+
+_Friday, July 14th_.--We still have a light wind, right aft,
+accompanied by a heavy roll from the westward, which makes it
+impossible to sit anywhere with comfort, and difficult even to read.
+By 6 a.m. the sun had become very powerful, though its heat was
+tempered by the breeze, which gradually increased throughout the day,
+until, having set all our fore-and-aft canvas, as well as our square
+sails, we glided steadily along, in delightful contrast to the uneasy
+motion of the morning, and of the past few days. Under the
+awning--with the most heavenly blue sky above, and the still darker
+clear blue sea beneath, stretching away in gentle ripples as far as
+the eye could reach--it was simply perfect.
+
+Our little party get on extremely well together, though a week ago
+they were strangers to each other. We are all so busy that we do not
+see much of one another except at meals, and then we have plenty to
+talk about. Captain Lecky imparts to us some of his valuable
+information about scientific navigation and the law of storms, and he
+and Tom and Captain Brown work hard at these subjects. Mr. Freer
+follows in the same path; Mr. Bingham draws and reads; Dr. Potter
+helps me to teach the children, who, I am happy to say, are as well as
+possible. I read and write a great deal, and learn Spanish, so that
+the days are all too short for what we have to do. The servants are
+settling down well into their places, and the commissariat department
+does great credit to the cooks and stewards. The maids get on
+satisfactorily, but are a little nervous on rough nights. We hope not
+to have many more just at present, for we are now approaching calmer
+latitudes.
+
+In the course of the day, whilst Tom and I were sitting in the stern,
+the man at the wheel suddenly exclaimed, 'There's land on the port
+bow.' We knew, from the distance we had run, that this could not be
+the case, and after looking at it through the glasses, Tom pronounced
+the supposed land to be a thick wall of fog, advancing towards us
+_against_ the wind. Captain Brown and Captain Lecky came from below,
+and hastened to get in the studding-sails, in anticipation of the
+coming squall. In a few minutes we had lost our fair breeze and
+brilliant sunshine, all our sails were taken flat aback, and we found
+ourselves enveloped in a dense fog, which made it impossible for us to
+see the length of the vessel. It was an extraordinary phenomenon.
+Captain Lecky, who, in the course of his many voyages, has passed
+within a few miles of this exact spot more than a hundred and fifty
+times, had never seen anything in the least like it. As night came on
+the fog increased, and the boats were prepared ready for lowering. Two
+men went to the wheel, and two to the bows to look out, while an
+officer was stationed on the bridge with steam-whistle and bell ready
+for an emergency; so that, in case we ran into anything, or anything
+ran into us, we should at least have the satisfaction of knowing that,
+so far as we were concerned, it had all been done strictly according
+to Act of Parliament.
+
+_Saturday, July 15th_.--Between midnight and 4 a.m. the fog
+disappeared, as suddenly as it had come on. We must have passed
+through a wide belt of it. At 5.30 a.m., when Tom called me to see a
+steamer go by, it was quite clear. The vessel was the 'Roman,' and she
+passed so close to us that we made our number, and exchanged
+salutations with the officers on the bridge.
+
+Towards the afternoon a nice breeze sprang up, and we were able to
+bank fires and sail.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+MADEIRA, TENERIFFE, AND CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS.
+
+    _Full many a green isle needs must be
+    In this wide sea of misery,
+    Or the mariner worn and wan
+    Never thus could voyage on._
+
+[Illustration: Our First View of Madeira]
+
+
+_Sunday, July 16th_.--Porto Santo being visible on the port bow, a
+quarter of a mile ahead, by 3.55 a.m. this morning, our three
+navigators congratulated themselves and each other on the good
+land-fall they had made.
+
+It looks a curious little island, and is situated about thirty-five
+miles north-east of Madeira, with a high peak in the centre, of which
+we could only see the extreme point, appearing above the clouds.
+
+It is interesting to know that it was from his observation of the
+drift-wood and debris washed on to the eastern shore that Columbus,
+who had married the daughter of the Governor of Porto Santo, derived
+his first impressions of the existence of the New World. Here it was
+that he first realised there might possibly be a large and unknown
+country to the westward; here it was that he first conceived the
+project of exploring the hitherto unknown ocean and of discovering
+what new countries might bound its western shores.
+
+An hour later we saw Fora and its light, at the extreme east of
+Madeira, and could soon distinguish the mountains in the centre of the
+latter island. As we rapidly approached the land, the beauty of the
+scenery became more fully apparent. A mass of dark purple volcanic
+rocks, clothed on the top with the richest vegetation, with patches of
+all sorts of colour on their sides, rises boldly from the sea. There
+are several small detached rocks, and one curious pointed little
+island, with an arch right through the middle of it, rather like the
+Perce Rock on the coast of Nova Scotia. We steamed slowly along the
+east coast, passing many pretty hamlets, nestled in bays or perched on
+the side of the hills, and observing how every possible nook and
+corner seemed to be terraced and cultivated. Sugar-canes, Indian corn,
+vines, and many varieties of tropical and semi-tropical plants, grow
+luxuriantly in this lovely climate. Nearly all the cottages in the
+island are inhabited by a simple people, many of whom have never left
+their native villages, even to look at the magnificent view from the
+top of the surrounding mountains, or to gaze on the sea, by which they
+are encompassed.
+
+We dropped our anchor in the bay of Funchal at about twelve o'clock,
+and before breakfast was over found ourselves surrounded by a perfect
+flotilla of boats, though none of them dared approach very near until
+the health-officer had come alongside and pronounced us free from
+infection. At this moment all are complaining much of the heat, which
+since yesterday has been very great, and is caused by the wind called
+'Este,' blowing direct from the African deserts. It was 79 deg. in the
+coolest place on board, and 84 deg. on shore in the shade, in the middle
+of the day.
+
+The African mail steamer, 'Ethiopia,' last from Bonny, West Coast of
+Africa, whence she arrived the day before yesterday, was lying in the
+bay, and the children went on board with some of our party to see her
+cargo of monkeys, parrots, and pineapples. The result was an
+importation of five parrots on board the 'Sunbeam;' but the monkeys
+were too big for us. Captain Dane, who paid us a return visit, said
+that the temperature here appeared quite cool to him, as for the last
+few weeks his thermometer had varied from 82 deg. to 96 deg. in the shade.
+
+We had service at 4 p.m., and at 5 p.m. went ashore in a native boat,
+furnished with bilge pieces, to keep her straight when beached, and to
+avoid the surf, for it was too rough for our own boats. At the water's
+edge a curious sort of double sleigh, drawn by two oxen, was waiting.
+Into this we stepped, setting off with considerable rapidity up the
+steep shingly beach, under a beautiful row of trees, to the 'Praca,'
+where the greater portion of the population were walking up and down,
+or sitting under the shade of the magnolias. These plants here attain
+the size of forest-trees, and their large white wax-like flowers shed
+a most delightful fragrance on the evening air. There were graceful
+pepper vines too, and a great variety of trees only known to us in
+England in the form of small shrubs. This being a festival day, the
+streets were crowded with people from town and country, in their
+holiday attire. The door-posts and balconies of the houses were
+wreathed with flowers, the designs in many cases being very pretty.
+One arcade in particular was quite lovely, with arches made of double
+red geranium, mixed with the feathery-looking pepper leaves, while the
+uprights were covered with amaryllis and white arum lilies. The
+streets were strewn with roses and branches of myrtle, which, bruised
+by the feet of the passers-by and the runners of the bullock sleigh,
+emitted a delicious aromatic odour.
+
+The trellises in the gardens seem overgrown with stephanotis, mauve
+and purple passion-flowers, and all kinds of rare creepers, the purple
+and white hibiscus shoots up some fourteen to sixteen feet in height;
+bananas, full of fruit and flower, strelitzias, heliotrope, geraniums,
+and pelargoniums, bloom all around in large shrubs, mixed with palms
+and mimosas of every variety; and the whole formed such an enchanting
+picture that we were loth to tear ourselves away.
+
+A ride of about twenty minutes in the bullock sleigh, up a steep hill,
+by the side of a rocky torrent, whose banks were overgrown with
+caladiums and vines, brought us to our destination, Til, whence we had
+a splendid view of the town and bay stretching beneath us. During the
+ascent we passed several cottages, whose inhabitants stood airing
+themselves on the threshold after the great heat of the day, and
+through the open doorways we occasionally got a peep into the gardens
+beyond, full of bright flowers and luxuriant with vines, fig-trees,
+and bananas. As we sat in the terrace garden at Til we enjoyed the
+sweet scent of the flowers we could no longer see, and listened to the
+cool splash of the water in the fountain below; whilst Allnutt, with
+unceasing energy, searched amongst the bushes for moths, of which he
+found a large number.
+
+We jogged down the hill a great deal faster than we had come up,
+stopping only for a short time in the now more than ever crowded
+'Praca,' to listen to one or two airs played by the Portuguese band,
+before we got back to the yacht at about half-past ten.
+
+Next morning we were off to the fish-market by seven o'clock, but it
+was not a good time for our visit, as there had been no moon on the
+previous night; and, though there were fish of various kinds, saw
+nothing specially worthy of notice. The picturesque costumes of the
+people were, however, interesting. We afterwards went to the
+fruit-market, though it was not specially worth seeing, for most of
+the fruit and vegetables are brought in boats from villages on the
+sea-shore; and, as it is necessary to wait until the sea-breeze
+springs up, they do not arrive until midday. After our walk the
+children and I went down to the beach and bathed, taking care not to
+go too far out on account of the sharks, of which we had been warned.
+We undressed and dressed in tents, not unlike clothes-horses, with a
+bit of matting thrown over them, in which the heat was intense. The
+beach is very steep; and as one gets out of one's depth immediately,
+indifferent swimmers put on a couple of bladders--which stick out
+behind their backs and produce a strange effect--or else take a
+bathing-man into the water with them. I preferred the latter course;
+and we all had a pleasant bathe.
+
+[Illustration: Fish Carrier]
+
+The natives seem almost amphibious in their habits, and the yacht is
+surrounded all day by boats full of small boys, who will dive to any
+depth for sixpence, a dozen of them spluttering and fighting for the
+coin in the water at the same time. They will go down on one side of
+the yacht too, and bob up on the other, almost before you have time to
+run across the deck to witness their reappearance.
+
+The Loo Rock, with its old fortress, close to our anchorage, forms a
+picturesque object; and the scene from the yacht, enlivened by the
+presence of numerous market-boats, laden with fruit and vegetables, is
+very pretty. We lie about 150 yards from the shore, just under Mr.
+Danero's quinta. The cliff just here is overhung with bougainvillaeas,
+geraniums, fuchsias, aloes, prickly pears, and other flowers, which
+grow luxuriantly quite down to the water's edge, wherever they can
+contrive to find a root-hold.
+
+After five o'clock tea we rode up the Mount and through the woods on
+horseback, along a road gay with masses of wild geranium, hydrangea,
+amaryllis, and fuchsia. We dismounted at a lovely place, which
+contains a large number of rare trees and plants, brought from all
+parts of the world. Here were enormous camellias, as well as purple,
+red, and white azaleas, Guernsey lilies, all growing in the greatest
+profusion.
+
+Our descent of the Mount, by means of a form of conveyance commonly
+used on the island, was very amusing. At the summit we found
+basket-work sleighs, each constructed to hold two people, and attended
+by a couple of men, lashed together. Into these we stepped, and were
+immediately pushed down the hill at a tremendous pace. The gliding
+motion is delightful, and was altogether a novelty to us. The men
+manage the sleighs with great skill, steering them in the most
+wonderful manner round the sharp angles in the zigzag road, and making
+use of their bare feet as brakes when necessary. The turns were
+occasionally so abrupt, that it seemed almost impossible that we could
+avoid being upset; but we reached the bottom quite safely. The
+children were especially delighted with the trip, and indeed we all
+enjoyed it immensely. The only danger is the risk of fire from the
+friction of the steel runners against the gravel road.
+
+After paying a visit to Mr. and Mrs. Blandy, whose house is
+beautifully situated, we dined at the hotel, and afterwards sat in
+the lovely semi-tropical garden until it was time to go on board to
+bed.
+
+_Tuesday, July 18th_.--We were called at 4.30 a.m., and went ashore
+soon after six to meet some friends, with whom we had arranged to ride
+up to the Gran Corral, and to breakfast there, 5,000 feet above the
+level of the sea.
+
+It soon became evident that the time we had selected for landing was
+the fashionable bathing hour. In fact, it required some skill on our
+part to keep the boat clear of the crowds of people of both sexes and
+all ages, who were taking their morning dip. It was most absurd to see
+entire families, from the bald-headed and spectacled grandfather to
+the baby who could scarcely walk, all disporting themselves in the
+water together, many of them supported by the very inelegant-looking
+bladders I have mentioned. There was a little delay in mounting our
+horses, under the shade of the fig-trees; but when we were once off, a
+party of eleven, the cavalcade became quite formidable. As we
+clattered up the paved streets, between vineyard and garden walls,
+'curiosity opened her lattice,' on more than one occasion, to
+ascertain the cause of the unwonted commotion. The views on our way,
+as we sometimes climbed a steep ascent or descended a deep ravine,
+were very varied, but always beautiful. About half-way up we stopped
+to rest under a delightful trellis of vines, by the side of a rushing
+mountain stream, bordered with ferns; then, leaving the vineyards and
+gardens behind us, we passed through forests of shady Spanish chestnut
+trees, beneath which stretched the luxurious greensward.
+
+At ten o'clock we quitted this grateful shade, and arrived at the neck
+of the pass, facing the Gran Corral, where we had to make our choice
+of ascending a conical hill, on our left, or the Torrinhas Peak, on
+our right. The latter was chosen, as promising the better view,
+although it was rather farther off, so we were accordingly seized
+upon by some of the crowd of peasants who surrounded us, and who at
+once proceeded to push and pull us up a steep slippery grass slope,
+interspersed with large boulders. The view from the top, looking down
+a sheer precipice of some 1,500 feet in depth into the valley below,
+was lovely. Quite at the bottom, amid the numerous ravines and small
+spurs of rocks by which the valley is intersected, we could
+distinguish some small patches of cultivated ground. Above our heads
+towered the jagged crests of the highest peaks, Pico Ruivo and others,
+which we had already seen from the yacht, when we first sighted the
+island.
+
+A pleasant walk over some grassy slopes, and two more hard scrambles,
+took us to the summit of the Torrinhas Peak; but the charming and
+extensive view towards Camara de Lobos, and the bay and town of
+Funchal, was an ample reward for all our trouble. It did not take us
+long to get back to the welcome shade of the chestnut trees, for we
+were all ravenously hungry, it being now eleven o'clock. But, alas!
+breakfast had not arrived: so we had no resource but to mount our
+horses again and ride down to meet it. Mr. Miles, of the hotel, had
+not kept his word; he had promised that our provisions should be sent
+up to us by nine o'clock, and it was midday before we met the men
+carrying the hampers on their heads. There was now nothing for it but
+to organise a picnic on the terrace of Mr. Veitch's deserted villa,
+beneath the shade of camellia, fuchsia, myrtle, magnolia, and
+pepper-trees, from whence we could also enjoy the fine view of the
+fertile valley beneath us and the blue sea sparkling beyond.
+
+_Wednesday, July 19th_.--We were so tired after our exertions of
+yesterday, that it was nine o'clock before we all mustered for our
+morning swim, which I think we enjoyed the more from the fact of our
+having previously been prevented by the sharks, or rather by the
+rumour of sharks.
+
+We were engaged to lunch at Mr. and Mrs. Blandy's, but I was so weary
+that I did not go ashore until about six o'clock in the evening, and
+then I went first to the English cemetery, which is very prettily laid
+out and well kept. The various paths are shaded by pepper-trees,
+entwined with bougainvillaea, while in many places the railings are
+completely covered by long trailing masses of stephanotis in full
+bloom. Some of the inscriptions on the tombs are extremely touching,
+and it is sad to see, as is almost always the case in places much
+resorted to by invalids, how large a proportion of those who lie
+buried here have been cut off in the very flower of their youth.
+Indeed, the residents at Madeira complain that it is a melancholy
+drawback to the charms of this beautiful island, that the friendship
+frequently formed between them and people who come hither in search of
+health, is in so many cases brought to an early and sad termination.
+Having seen and admired Mrs. Foljambe's charming garden by daylight,
+we returned on board to receive some friends. Unfortunately they were
+not very good sailors, and, out of our party of twenty, one lady had
+to go ashore at once, and another before dinner was over.
+
+They all admired the yacht very much, particularly the various cozy
+corners in the deck-house. It was a lovely night; and after the
+departure of our guests, at about ten o'clock, we steamed out of the
+bay, where we found a nice light breeze, which enabled us to sail.
+
+[Illustration: A Cozy Corner.]
+
+_Thursday, July 20th_.--All to-day has been taken up in arranging our
+photographs, journals, &c. &c., and in preparing for our visit to
+Teneriffe. About twelve o'clock the wind fell light and we tried
+fishing, but without success, though several bonitos or flying-fish
+were seen. It was very hot, and it seemed quite a relief when, at
+eight o'clock in the evening, we began steaming, thus creating a
+breeze for ourselves.
+
+_Friday, July 21st_.--We all rose early, and were full of excitement
+to catch the first glimpse of the famous Peak of Teneriffe. There was
+a nice breeze from the north-east, the true trade wind, we hope, which
+ought to carry us down nearly to the Line. The morning being rather
+hazy, it was quite ten o'clock before we saw the Peak, towering above
+the clouds, right ahead, about fifty-nine miles off. As we approached,
+it appeared less perpendicular than we had expected, or than it is
+generally represented in pictures. The other mountains too, in the
+centre of the island, from the midst of which it rises, are so very
+lofty that, in spite of its conical sugar-loaf top, it is difficult at
+first to realise that the Peak is 12,180 feet high.
+
+We dropped anchor under its shadow in the harbour of Orotava in
+preference to the capital, Santa Cruz, both on account of its being a
+healthier place, and also in order to be nearer to the Peak, which we
+wished to ascend.
+
+The heat having made the rest of our party rather lazy, Captain Lecky
+and I volunteered to go on shore to see the Vice-Consul, Mr. Goodall,
+and try to make arrangements for our expedition. It was only 2 p.m.,
+and very hot work, walking through the deserted streets, but luckily
+we had not far to go, and the house was nice and cool when we got
+there. Mr. Goodall sent off at once for a carriage, despatching a
+messenger also to the mountains for horses and guides, which there was
+some difficulty in obtaining at such short notice.
+
+Having organised the expedition we re-embarked to dine on board the
+yacht, and I went to bed at seven, to be called again, however, at
+half-past ten o'clock. After a light supper, we landed and went to the
+Vice-Consul's arriving there exactly at midnight. But no horses were
+forthcoming, so we lay down on our rugs in the patio, and endeavoured
+to sleep, as we knew we should require all our strength for the
+expedition before us.
+
+There were sundry false alarms of a start, as the horses arrived by
+ones and twos from the neighbouring villages, accompanied by their
+respective owners. By two o'clock all our steeds, twelve in number,
+had assembled, and in another quarter of an hour we were leaving the
+town by a steep stony path, bordered by low walls. There was no moon,
+and for the first two hours it was very dark. At the end of that time
+we could see the first glimmer of dawn, and were shortly afterwards
+able to distinguish each other and to observe the beautiful view which
+lay below us as we wended our way up and up between small patches of
+cultivation. Soon we climbed above the clouds, which presented a most
+curious appearance as we looked down upon them. The strata through
+which we had passed was so dense and so white, that it looked exactly
+like an enormous glacier, covered with fresh fallen snow, extending
+for miles and miles; while the projecting tops of the other Canary
+Islands appeared only like great solitary rocks.
+
+The sun had already become very oppressive, and at half-past seven we
+stopped to breakfast and to water the horses. Half-past eight found us
+in the saddle again, and we commenced to traverse a dreary plain of
+yellowish white pumice-stone, interspersed with huge blocks of
+obsidian, thrown from the mouth of the volcano. At first the monotony
+of the scene was relieved by large bushes of yellow broom in full
+flower, and still larger bushes of the beautiful _Retama blanca_,
+quite covered with lovely white bloom, scenting the air with its
+delicious fragrance, and resembling huge tufts of feathers, eight or
+nine feet high. As we proceeded, however, we left all traces of
+vegetation behind us. It was like the Great Sahara. On every side a
+vast expanse of yellow pumice-stone sand spread around us, an
+occasional block of rock sticking up here and there, and looking as if
+it had indeed been fused in a mighty furnace. By half-past ten we had
+reached the 'Estancia de los Ingleses,' 9,639 feet above the level of
+the sea, where the baggage and some of the horses had to be left
+behind, the saddles being transferred to mules for the very steep
+climb before us. After a drink of water all round, we started again,
+and commenced the ascent of the almost perpendicular stream of lava
+and stone, which forms the only practicable route to the top. Our poor
+beasts were only able to go a few paces at a time without stopping to
+regain their breath. The loose ashes and lava fortunately gave them a
+good foothold, or it would have been quite impossible for them to get
+along at all. One was only encouraged to proceed by the sight of one's
+friends above, looking like flies clinging to the face of a wall. The
+road, if such it can be called, ran in zigzags, each of which was
+about the length of two horses, so that we were in turns one above
+another. There were a few slips and slides and tumbles, but no
+important casualties; and in about an hour and a half we had reached
+the 'Alta Vista,' a tiny plateau, where the horses were to be left.
+
+The expedition so far had been such a fatiguing one, and the heat was
+so great, that the children and I decided to remain here, and to let
+the gentlemen proceed alone to the summit of the Peak. We tried to
+find some shade, but the sun was so immediately above us that this was
+almost an impossibility. However, we managed to squeeze ourselves
+under some slightly overhanging rocks, and I took some photographs
+while the children slept. The guides soon returned with water-barrels
+full of ice, procured from a cavern above, where there is a stream of
+water constantly running; and nothing could have been more grateful
+and refreshing.
+
+It was more than three hours before Tom and Captain Lecky reappeared,
+to be soon followed by the rest of the party. Whilst they rested and
+refreshed themselves with ice, they described the ascent as fatiguing
+in the extreme, in fact, almost an impossibility for a lady. First
+they had scrambled over huge blocks of rough lava to the tiny plain of
+the Rambleta, 11,466 feet above the level of the sea, after which they
+had to climb up the cone itself, 530 feet in height, and sloping at an
+angle of 44 degrees. It is composed of ashes and calcined chalk, into
+which their feet sank, while, for every two steps they made forwards
+and upwards, they slipped one backwards. But those who reached the top
+were rewarded for their exertions by a glorious view, and by the
+wonderful appearance of the summit of the Peak. The ground beneath
+their feet was hot, while sulphurous vapours and smoke issued from
+various small fissures around them, though there has been no actual
+eruption from this crater of the volcano since 1704. They brought down
+with them a beautiful piece of calcined chalk, covered with crystals
+of sulphur and arsenic, and some other specimens. Parched and dry as
+the ground looked where I was resting, a few grains of barley, dropped
+by mules on the occasion of a previous visit, had taken root and had
+grown up into ear; and there were also a few roots of a sort of
+dog-violet, showing its delicate lavender-coloured flowers 11,000 feet
+above the sea, and far beyond the level of any other vegetation.
+
+It was impossible to ride down to the spot where we had left the
+baggage animals, and the descent was consequently very fatiguing, and
+even painful. At every step our feet sank into a mass of loose scoriae
+and ashes; and so we went slipping, sliding, and stumbling along,
+sometimes running against a rock, and sometimes nearly pitching
+forward on our faces. All this too beneath a blazing sun, with the
+thermometer at 78 deg., and not a vestige of shade. At last Tom and I
+reached the bottom, where, after partaking of luncheon and draughts of
+quinine, we lay down under the shadow of a great rock to recruit our
+weary frames.
+
+Refreshed by our meal, we started at six o'clock on our return
+journey, and went down a good deal faster than we came up. Before the
+end of the pumice-stone or Retama plains had been reached, it was
+nearly dark. Sundry small accidents occurring to stirrup-leathers,
+bridles, and girths--for the saddlery was not of the best
+description--delayed us slightly, and as Tom, Dr. Potter, Allnutt, and
+the guide had got on ahead, we soon lost sight of them. After an
+interval of uncertainty, the other guides confessed that they did not
+know the way back in the dark. This was not pleasant, for the roads
+were terrible, and during the whole of our journey up, from the port
+to the Peak, we had met only four people in all--two goatherds with
+their flocks, and two 'neveros,' bringing down ice to the town. There
+was therefore not much chance of gaining information from any one on
+our way down. We wandered about among low bushes, down watercourses,
+and over rocks for a long time. Horns were blown, and other means of
+attracting attention were tried; first one and then another of the
+party meanwhile coming more or less to grief. My good little horse
+fell down three times, though we did not part company, and once he
+went up a steep bank by mistake, instead of going down a very nasty
+watercourse, which I do not wonder at his objecting to. I managed to
+jump off in time, and so no harm was done; but it was rather anxious
+work.
+
+About ten o'clock we saw a light in the distance, and with much
+shouting woke up the inhabitants of the cottage whence it proceeded,
+promising to reward them liberally if they would only show us our way
+back. Three of them consented to do this, and provided themselves
+accordingly with pine-torches, wrapped round with bracken and leaves.
+One, a very fine man, dressed in white, with his arm extended above
+his head, bearing the light, led the way; another walked in front of
+my horse, while the third brought up the rear. They conducted us down
+the most frightfully steep paths until we had descended beneath the
+clouds, when the light from our torches threw our shadows in gigantic
+form upon the mists above, reminding us of the legend of the 'Spectre
+of the Brocken.' At last the torches began to go out, one by one, and
+just as the last light was expiring we arrived at a small village,
+where we of course found that everybody was asleep. After some delay,
+during which Mabelle and I were so tired that we lay down in the
+street to rest, more torches were procured and a fresh guide, who led
+us into the comparatively good path towards Puerto Orotava. Finally,
+half an hour after midnight, we arrived at the house of the
+Vice-Consul, who had provided refreshments for us, and whose nephew
+was still very kindly sitting up awaiting our return. But we were too
+tired to do anything but go straight on board the yacht, where, after
+some supper and champagne, we were indeed glad to retire to our
+berths. This was at 3.30 a.m., exactly twenty-nine hours since we had
+been called on Friday night.
+
+It is certainly too long an expedition to be performed in one day.
+Tents should be taken, and arrangements made for camping out for one,
+if not two, nights; but, in the case of such a large party as ours,
+this would have been a great business, as everything must be carried
+to so great a height, up such steep places, and over such bad roads.
+Still, there are so many objects and places of interest, not only on,
+but around, the Peak, that it is a pity to see them only when hurried
+and fatigued.
+
+_Sunday, July 23rd_.--Orders had been given not to call us nor to wash
+decks, and it was consequently half-past ten before any one awoke, and
+midday before the first of our party put in an appearance on deck.
+
+Long before this, the 'Sunbeam' had been inundated with visitors from
+the shore. We had given a general invitation to the friends of the
+Vice-Consul to come and see the yacht; and they accordingly arrived in
+due course, accompanied in many cases by a large circle of
+acquaintances. Those who came first were conducted below and all over
+the vessel, but the number ultimately became so great that, in
+self-defence, we were obliged to limit their wanderings to the deck,
+opening the skylights wide, however, to enable them to see as much as
+possible of the saloon and cabins.
+
+From breakfast-time until prayers, at three o'clock, when the yacht
+was closed for an hour, there was a constant stream of visitors from
+the shore. It was a great nuisance; but still it seemed unkind to
+refuse to allow them to see what they had never seen before, and might
+possibly never have an opportunity of seeing again. All steamers and
+sailing-ships, as a rule, go to Santa Cruz; and the fame of our vessel
+having been spread abroad by our visitors of Friday, many of the poor
+people had come from villages far away over the mountains. We could
+not help feeling a certain respect for the determined way in which
+physical infirmity was mastered by curiosity for, though many
+experienced very serious inconvenience from the motion of the vessel,
+they still persevered in their examination.
+
+About five o'clock we went ashore ourselves, and drove up to Villa
+Orotava. The wide road is macadamised and marked with kilometre
+stones, and is planted on either side with pepper-trees, plane-trees,
+and the _Eucalyptus globulus_, which has grown 35 metres, or 115 feet,
+in seven years. The hedges are formed of blue plumbago, scarlet
+geranium, yellow acacia, lavender-coloured heliotrope, white jasmine,
+and pink and white roses.
+
+After driving a few miles, we turned down an old paved road towards
+the sea, and, by dint of a considerable amount of shaking, arrived at
+the celebrated Botanical Gardens, mentioned by Humboldt and others. We
+passed through a small house, with a fine dragon-tree on either side,
+and entered the gardens, where we found a valuable collection of trees
+and shrubs of almost every known species. The kind and courteous
+Curator, Don Hermann Wildgaret, accompanied us, and explained the
+peculiarities of the many interesting plants, from Europe, Asia,
+Africa, America, Australia, New Zealand, and the various islands of
+the North and South Pacific and Indian Oceans. The climate of
+Teneriffe is so equable, that the island forms a true garden of
+acclimatisation for the vegetable productions of the various countries
+of the world; by the judicious expenditure of a little more money,
+this establishment might be made an important means of introducing to
+Europe many new and valuable plants. At present the annual income is
+5,000 francs, the salary of the Curator being 1,000 francs.
+
+A rough drive over paved roads, commanding extensive views of sea and
+rocks, and of some palm-trees on a promontory in the distance, brought
+us, at about seven o'clock, to the boat, which was waiting our return.
+We arrived in due course on board the 'Sunbeam,' laden with bouquets
+of the choicest flowers, and soon after dinner we all retired to bed,
+not having yet recovered from the fatigues of yesterday.
+
+_Monday, July 24th_.--What one gains in the beauty and abundance of
+vegetable life here, one loses in its rapid and premature decay. Fruit
+gathered in the morning is scarcely fit to eat at night, and the
+flowers brought on board yesterday evening were dead to-day at 4.30
+a.m.; whilst some of the roses we brought from Cowes lasted until we
+reached Madeira, though it must be owned so many fell to pieces that
+my cabin used to be daily swept with rose-leaves instead of
+tea-leaves.
+
+We went ashore soon after six, and drove straight to the garden of the
+Marquis de Sonzal, where there is a beautiful palm-tree, 101 feet
+high, the remains of an enormous dragon-tree, old even in the
+fifteenth century, besides hedges of myrtle, jasmine, and clematis,
+and flowers of every description in full bloom. The dragon-tree is a
+species of dracaena, and looks rather like a gigantic candelabra,
+composed of a number of yuccas, perched on the top of a gnarled and
+somewhat deformed stem, half palm half cactus. Another beautiful
+garden was next visited, belonging to the Marquis de la Candia, who
+received us and showed us his coffee and plantains in full growth, as
+well as a magnificent Spanish chestnut-tree, coeval with the
+dragon-tree. Out of one of its almost decayed branches a so-called
+young tree was growing, but it would have been thought very
+respectable and middle-aged in any other locality.
+
+Every one here, as in Madeira, has been more or less ruined by the
+failure of the vines. Most of the large landed proprietors have left
+their estates to take care of themselves; and the peasants, for the
+last few years, have been emigrating by hundreds to Caraccas, in
+Venezuela. Things are, however, beginning to look up a little now. The
+cultivation of cochineal appears to succeed, though the price is low;
+coffee answers well; and permission has been obtained from the Spanish
+Government to grow tobacco, accompanied by a promise to purchase, at
+a certain fixed rate, all that can be produced. Still, people talk of
+the Island of Teneriffe as something very different now from what it
+was twenty-five or thirty years ago, both as regards the number of its
+inhabitants and the activity of its commerce, and mourn over 'the good
+old times;'--a custom I have remarked in many other places!
+
+[Illustration: A Palm-tree in a Garden, Orotava, Teneriffe.]
+
+The Marquis de la Candia and Don Hermann Wildgaret returned on board
+with us to breakfast. The anchor had been weighed, and the 'Sunbeam'
+was slowly steaming up and down, waiting for us. The stream of
+visitors had been as great and as constant as ever during our absence,
+in spite of the heavy roll of the sea, and the deck seemed quite
+covered with baskets of flowers and fruit, kindly sent on board by the
+people who had been over the yacht the day before. Amongst the latest
+arrivals were some very handsome Spanish ladies, beautifully dressed
+in black, with mantillas, each of whom was accompanied by a young man
+carrying a basin. It must, I fear, be confessed that this was rather a
+trial to the gravity of all on board. It certainly was an instance of
+the pursuit of knowledge, or the gratification of curiosity, under
+considerable difficulties.
+
+Immediately after breakfast, our friends bade us adieu, and went
+ashore in the shore-boat, while we steamed along the north side of the
+island, past the splendid cliffs of Buenavista, rising 2,000 feet
+sheer from the sea, to Cape Teno, the extreme western point of
+Teneriffe. In the distance we could see the Great Canary, Palma, and
+Hierro, and soon passed close to the rocky island of Gomera. Here,
+too, the dark cliffs, of volcanic form and origin, are magnificent,
+and as we were almost becalmed by the high land whilst we sailed along
+the north shore of the island, we had ample opportunities of admiring
+its rugged beauty. During the night we approached Palma, another large
+island of the Canary group, containing one of the most remarkable
+_calderas_, or large basins, formed by volcanic action in the world.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+
+PALMA TO RIO DE JANEIRO.
+
+    _A wet sheet and a flowing sea,_
+    _A wind that follows fast_
+    _And fills the white and rustling sail_
+    _And bends the gallant mast._
+
+_Tuesday, July 25th_.--There was not much wind during the night, and
+Palma was consequently still visible when I came on deck at daybreak.
+We had a light fair wind in the morning, accompanied by a heavy swell,
+which caused us to roll so much that I found it very difficult to do
+anything. Several shoals of flying fish skimmed past us along the
+surface of the water, occasionally rising to a considerable height
+above it. Their beautiful wings, glittering in the bright sunlight,
+looked like delicate silver filigree-work. In the night one flew on
+board, only to be preserved in spirits by Dr. Potter.
+
+_Saturday, July 29th_.--For the last three days we have been going on
+quietly with fair, warm weather, but a nice fresh breeze sprang up
+to-day. At midday the sun was so exactly vertical over our heads, that
+it was literally possible to stand under the shadow of one's own
+hatbrim, and be sheltered all round. Our navigators experienced
+considerable difficulty in taking their noon-tide observations, as the
+sun appeared to dodge about in every direction.
+
+About two o'clock we made the high land of St. Antonio, one of the
+Cape de Verde Islands, and, soon afterwards, the lower land of St
+Vincent. Some doubt existing as to the prevalence of fever at the
+latter place, Tom decided not to stop there, for fear of having to
+undergo quarantine at Rio de Janeiro. We therefore shortened sail, and
+passed slowly between the islands to the anchorage beyond the Bird
+Rock. This is a very small island, of perfectly conical form, covered
+with thousands of sea-fowl, who live here undisturbed by any other
+inhabitants. The town of Porto Grande, with its rows of white houses
+on the sea-shore, at the base of the rocky crags, looked clean and
+comfortable in the evening light. During the day, however, it must be
+a hot and glaring place, for there are no trees to afford shade, nor,
+indeed, any kind of vegetation. The water, too, is bad, and all
+supplies for passing steamers are brought from the other islands, at
+very uncertain intervals. It is still a great coaling-station, though
+not so much used as it was formerly, before the opening of the Suez
+Canal. The ships come out with coal, and go away in ballast (there is
+nothing else to be had here), procured from a point near the town, to
+Rio or elsewhere, where they pick up their homeward cargo of fruit,
+&c.
+
+The absence of twilight in these latitudes, both at dawn and sunset,
+is certainly very remarkable. This morning, at four o'clock, the stars
+were shining brightly; ten minutes later the day had commenced to
+break; and at half-past four the sun had risen above the horizon, and
+was gilding the surrounding mountain tops.
+
+_Sunday, July 30th_.--About 10 a.m. we were off Tarafal Bay--a most
+hopeless-looking place for supplies. High rocky mountains, sandy
+slopes, and black volcanic beach, composed a scene of arid desolation,
+in the midst of which was situated one small white house, with four
+windows and a thatched roof, surrounded by a little green patch of
+sugar-canes and cocoa-nut palms.
+
+But the result proved the sageness of the advice contained in the old
+proverb, not to trust to appearances only; for, whilst we were at
+breakfast, Mr. Martinez, the son of the owner of the one whitewashed
+cottage to be seen, came on board. To our surprise, he spoke English
+extremely well, and promised us all sorts of supplies, if we could
+wait until three o'clock in the afternoon. Having agreed to do this,
+we shortly afterwards went ashore in his boat, with a crew of more
+than half-naked negroes, and a hot row of about three miles brought us
+to the shore, where, after some little difficulty, we succeeded in
+effecting a landing. Our feet immediately sank into the hot black
+sand, composed entirely of volcanic deposits and small pieces, or
+rather grains, of amber, through which we had a fatiguing walk until
+we reached some palm-trees, shading a little pool of water. Here we
+left some of the men, with instructions to fill the breakers they had
+brought with them, while we walked on along the beach, past the
+remains of an English schooner that caught fire not far from this
+island, and was run ashore by her captain, thirty years ago. Her iron
+anchor, chain, and wheel still remained, together with two queer
+little iron cannon, which I should have much liked to carry off as a
+memorial of our visit. We then turned up a narrow shadeless path,
+bordered by stone walls, leading away from the sea, past a sugar-mill
+and a ruin. A few almond, castor-oil, and fig trees were growing
+amongst the sugar-canes, and as we mounted the hill we could see some
+thirty round straw huts, like beehives, on the sandy slopes beside the
+little stream. An abrupt turn in the mountains, amid which, at a
+distance of three leagues, this tiny river takes its rise, hides it
+from the sea, so that the narrow valley which it fertilises looks like
+a small oasis in the desert of rocks and sand.
+
+Mr. Martinez's house, where we sat for some time, and beneath the
+windows of which the one stream of the island runs, was comparatively
+cool. Outside, the negro washerwomen were busy washing clothes in large
+turtle-shell tubs, assisted, or hindered, by the 'washerwoman-bird,'
+a kind of white crane, who appeared quite tame, playing about just
+like a kitten, pecking at the clothes or the women's feet, and
+then running away and hiding behind a tree. The stream was full of
+water-cresses, while the burnt-up little garden contained an abundance
+of beautiful flowers. There were scarlet and yellow mimosas, of many
+kinds, combining every shade of exquisite green velvety foliage,
+alpinias, with pink, waxy flowers and crimson and gold centres,
+oleanders, begonias, hibiscus, allamandas, and arum and other lilies.
+
+[Illustration: Tarafal Bay, St. Antonio.]
+
+Mr. Bingham sketched, I took some photographs, Dr. Potter and the
+children caught butterflies, and the rest of our party wandered about.
+Every five minutes a negro arrived with a portion of our supplies. One
+brought a sheep, another a milch-goat for baby, while the rest
+contributed, severally, a couple of cocoa-nuts, a papaya, three
+mangoes, a few water-cresses, a sack of sweet potatoes, a bottle of
+milk, three or four quinces, a bunch of bananas, a little honey,
+half-a-dozen cabbages, some veal and pork, and so on; until it
+appeared as if every little garden on either side of the three leagues
+of stream must have yielded up its entire produce, and we had
+accumulated sacks full of cocoa-nuts and potatoes, hundreds of eggs,
+and dozens of chickens and ducks. It was very amusing to see the
+things arrive. They were brought in by people varying in colour from
+dark yellow to the blackest ebony, and ranging in size from fine
+stalwart men, over six feet in height, to tiny little blackies of
+about three feet six, with curly hair, snowy teeth, and mischievous,
+beady eyes. The arrival of the provision boat and the transfer of its
+miscellaneous cargo to the 'Sunbeam' was quite an amusing sight. The
+pretty black goat and the sheep bleated, the fowls cackled, and the
+ducks quacked, while the negroes chatted and laughed as they handed
+and hauled on board fish of all shapes and sizes, bunches of bananas,
+piles of cocoa-nuts, sacks of potatoes, and many other things,
+finishing up with a tiny black boy, about three years old, whom I
+think they would rather have liked to leave behind with us, if we
+would only have taken him. The fish proved excellent, though some of
+them really seemed almost too pretty to eat. A brilliant gold fish,
+weighing about three pounds, and something like a grey mullet in
+flavour, was perhaps the best. The prices were very curious. Chickens
+a shilling each, ducks five shillings, goats thirty shillings, and
+sheep ten shillings. Vegetables, fruit, and flowers were extremely
+cheap; but the charge for water, fetched from the spring in our own
+breakers by our own crew, with but little assistance from four or five
+negroes, was 3_l_. 18_s_. However, as ours is the only yacht, with one
+exception, that has ever visited this island, there was nothing for it
+except to pay the bill without demur.
+
+I never in my life felt so warm as I did to-day on shore, though the
+inhabitants say it will not be _really_ hot for two months yet; I
+never before saw cocoa-nut palms growing; and I never tasted a mango
+until this morning; so I have experienced three new sensations in one
+day.
+
+The night was fearfully close, muggy, and thundery, the temperature in
+the cabins being 89 deg., in spite of open sky-lights and port-holes.
+Generally speaking, it has not hitherto been as hot as we expected,
+especially on board the yacht itself. On deck there is almost always a
+nice breeze, but below it is certainly warm.
+
+_Tuesday, August 1st_.--Yesterday we were still under sail, but to-day
+it has been necessary to steam, for the wind has fallen too light.
+There was a heavy roll from the south, and the weather continued hot
+and oppressive. In the cabins the thermometer stood at 89 deg. during the
+whole of the night, in spite of all our efforts to improve the
+temperature. We therefore put three of the children in the deck-house
+to sleep, opening the doors and windows; and some of the rest of our
+party slept on deck in hammocks. In anticipation of the heavy
+equatorial rains, which Captain Lecky had predicted might commence
+to-day, we had had the awnings put up; a fortunate piece of foresight,
+for, before midnight, the rain came down in torrents.
+
+_Wednesday, August 2nd_.--At daybreak the sky was covered with heavy
+black clouds, and the atmosphere was as hot and muggy as ever. We had
+a great deal of rain during the day, and took advantage of the
+opportunity to fill every available tub, bucket, and basin, to say
+nothing of the awnings. It came down in such sheets that mackintoshes
+were comparatively useless, and we had soon filled our seventeen
+breakers, the cistern, and the boats, from which we had removed the
+covers, with very good, though somewhat dirty, washing water.
+
+_Friday, August 4th_.--We were only 289 miles off Sierra Leone in the
+morning, and at noon therefore Tom decided to put about. Having done
+so, we found that we went along much more easily and quite as fast on
+the other tack. We maintained a good rate of speed on our new course,
+which was now nearly due west, passing a large barque with every
+stitch of canvas set, hand over hand.
+
+We are still in the Guinea current, and the temperature of the water
+is 82 deg., even in the early morning; but the heat of the sun does not
+seem to have much effect upon it, as it does not vary to any great
+extent during the day.
+
+[Illustration: Father Neptune.]
+
+In the evening we saw the Southern Cross for the first time, and were
+much disappointed in its appearance. The fourth star is of smaller
+magnitude than the others, and the whole group is only for a very
+short time in a really upright position, inclining almost always
+either to one side or the other, as it rises and sets.
+
+_Tuesday, August 8th_.--We crossed the line at daylight.
+
+This event caused much fun and excitement, both in cabin and
+forecastle. The conventional hair was put across the field of the
+telescope for the unsophisticated 'really to see the line,' and many
+firmly believed they did see it, and discussed its appearance at some
+length. Jim Allen, one of our tallest sailors, and coxswain of the
+gig, dressed in blue, with long oakum wig and beard, gilt paper crown,
+and trident and fish impaled in one hand, was seated on a
+gun-carriage, and made a capital Father Neptune. Our somewhat portly
+engineer, Mr. Rowbotham, with fur-trimmed dressing gown and cap, and
+bent form, leaning on a stick, his face partially concealed by a long
+grey beard, and a large band-box of pills on one arm, made an equally
+good doctor to his Marine Majesty, while the part of Mrs. Trident was
+ably filled by one of the youngest sailors, dressed in some of the
+maids' clothes; but the accompanying pictures will give a better idea
+than any description of mine.
+
+[Illustration: His Doctor (Crossing the Line)]
+
+Soon afterwards we saw an enormous shoal of grampuses, large black
+fish, about 25 feet in length, something between a dolphin and a
+whale, with the very ugliest jaws, or rather snouts, imaginable. They
+are of a predatory and ferocious disposition, attacking not only
+sharks, dolphins, and porpoises, but even whales, more than twice
+their own size. We also passed through enormous quantities of
+flying-fish, no doubt driven to the surface by dolphins and bonitos.
+They were much larger and stronger in the wing than any we have
+hitherto seen.
+
+Lulu's puppies, born yesterday, have been respectively named Butterfly
+(who survived her birth only an hour), Poseidon, Aphrodite,
+Amphitrite, and Thetis--names suggested by their birth-place on the
+ocean close to his Marine Majesty's supposed equatorial palace.
+
+[Illustration: Lulu and her Puppies]
+
+At noon we were 250 miles off St. Paul's Rocks.
+
+_Thursday, August 10th_.--A very hot, showery day. Saw two large ships
+in the distance. In the morning we were almost becalmed for a time,
+but the breeze returned during the afternoon, and we were able to
+proceed on our course. I think this has been the most lovely of the
+many exquisite days we have enjoyed since we left England. It
+commenced with a magnificent sunrise, and ended with an equally
+gorgeous sunset, only to be succeeded by a beautiful moonlight night,
+so clear and bright that we could see to read ordinary print on deck.
+
+_Saturday, August 12th_.--At noon we were 300 miles off Bahia, a place
+we have made up our minds not to visit, as it would lengthen our
+voyage considerably, and there is not much to see there. We have
+therefore decided to proceed direct to Rio, where we are looking
+forward to arrive on Wednesday or Thursday next.
+
+The night was showery, with a good deal of wind and sea.
+
+_Sunday, August 13th_.--Sailing in the tropics is really very
+delightful! When going to the westward, there is almost always, at
+this season of the year, a favourable breeze, and the weather is
+generally either quite fair or moderately so.
+
+    Whispered to it, westward, westward,
+    And with speed it darted forward.
+
+We had service at 11.15 a.m., and again at 5.30 p.m. The choir has
+considerably improved; one of our new men plays the violin very well,
+and frequently accompanies the children and the nurse in their songs.
+On a clear calm night, beneath a tropical sky, when the members of
+this little group assemble on deck, and, by the light of a lantern,
+sing some of their simple songs, the effect produced is both melodious
+and picturesque.
+
+The wind dropped at about 10 p.m., and we had an unpleasant amount of
+roll during the night, sails flapping, spars creaking, and booms
+swinging as if they would pull the masts out of the vessel.
+
+[Illustration: Vespers.]
+
+_Monday, August 14th_.--This morning we saw a small schooner ahead,
+and thinking from her manoeuvres that she wished to speak us, we made
+our number and ran towards her. We soon found out, however, that she
+was a whaler, in chase of two large grampuses. She had two men on the
+look-out in the cross-trees, in a sort of iron cage; and though she
+was of much smaller tonnage than the 'Sunbeam,' she carried five big
+boats, one of which, full of men, was ready to be lowered into the
+water, the instant they had approached sufficiently near to the whale
+or grampus. These seas used formerly to abound with whalers, but they
+are now much less numerous, the seasons having been bad of late.
+
+To-night the stars were especially brilliant, and we spent some hours
+in trying to make out their names. Vega, our polar star for some time
+to come, shone conspicuously bright, and the Southern Cross could be
+seen to great advantage.
+
+_Wednesday, August 16th_.--We had a fine fair breeze all day, and at 5
+p.m. there was a cry from the mast-head of 'Land ahead!' Great
+excitement immediately prevailed on board, and Tom and Captain Brown
+rushed, for about the twelfth time, to the foretop to see if the
+report was true. They were soon able to announce that Cape Frio was
+visible on the port bow, about thirty-five miles distant. After even a
+fortnight at sea, an indescribable sensation is produced by this cry,
+and by the subsequent sight of the land itself. When we came up on
+deck this evening, after dinner, we all gazed on the lighthouse on the
+still distant shore as if we had never beheld such a thing in our
+lives before. The colour and temperature of the water had perceptibly
+changed, the former from a beautiful, clear, dark ultramarine to a
+muddy green; innumerable small birds, moths, locusts, and grasshoppers
+came on board; and, having given special orders that we were to be
+called early the next morning, we went to bed in the fond hope that we
+should be able to enter Rio harbour at daybreak.
+
+_Thursday, August 17th_.--'L'homme propose; Dieu dispose.' Steam was
+up at midnight, but by that time it was blowing half a gale of wind
+from the south-west, with such a steep short sea that the screw was
+scarcely ever properly immersed, but went racing round and round in
+the air with tremendous velocity, as we pitched and rolled about. Our
+progress was therefore at the rate of something rather under a mile
+an hour, and at daybreak, instead of entering the harbour of Rio, as
+we had hoped to do, we found ourselves close to Cape Frio.
+
+About 8 a.m. matters mended, the wind moderating and changing its
+direction slightly; so that, under steam and sail, we were soon going
+along the coast at the rate of four or five miles an hour. The surf
+was breaking with a loud roar upon the white sandy beach, while the
+spray was carried by the force of the wind far inland, over the strip
+of flat fertile-looking country, lying between the sea and a chain of
+low sugarloaf-shaped mountains, parallel with the shore, and only a
+short distance off.
+
+Our course lay between the mainland and the islands of Maya and Payo,
+where the groves of bananas and other trees looked very miserable in
+the wind. The tall isolated palm-trees, whose elastic stems bowed
+readily before the fury of the blast, looked, as they were twisted and
+whirled hither and thither, like umbrellas turned inside out. Passing
+the false Sugarloaf mountain, as it is called, we next opened out the
+true one, the Gavia, and the chain of mountains beyond, the outlines
+of which bear an extraordinary resemblance to the figure of a man
+lying on his back, the profile of the face being very like that of the
+late Duke of Wellington. As the sun sank in gorgeous splendour behind
+these hills, I think I never saw a grander or more beautiful sight;
+though the sky was so red and stormy-looking that our hopes of a fine
+day to-morrow were but faint.
+
+Before entering the harbour, a bar had to be crossed, which is a
+dangerous operation all the world over. The skylights and hatches were
+fastened down, and those of our party who did not like being shut up
+below took their places on the bridge, where, for the first time since
+we left England, it felt really quite cold. As we advanced, the
+beautiful harbour, with its long rows of glittering gas-lights,
+extending for miles on either side of the bay, and illuminating the
+city and suburbs, gradually became visible. On our left lay the two
+islands, Rodonda and Raza, on the latter of which is situated a
+lighthouse. The wind was blowing off the land when we reached the bar,
+so that, after all our preparations, there was hardly any sea to
+encounter, and the moment we were over, the water on the other side
+was perfectly smooth. A gun and a blue light from Fort Santa Cruz,
+answered immediately by a similar signal from Fort Santa Lucia,
+announced our arrival, and we shortly afterwards dropped our anchor in
+the quarantine ground of Rio close to Botafogo Bay, in the noble
+harbour of Nictheroy.
+
+After dinner it rained heavily, and continued to do so during the
+whole night.
+
+[Illustration: Botafogo Bay]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+RIO DE JANEIRO.
+
+   _The sun is warm, the sky is clear,_
+   _The waves are dancing fast and bright,_
+   _Blue isles and snowy mountains wear_
+   _The purple noon's transparent light._
+
+
+_Friday, August 18th_.--The clouds still hung heavy on the hills, or
+rather mountains, which surround the bay, occasionally descending in
+the form of torrents of rain, and hiding everything from our view.
+
+Early in the morning we weighed anchor and steamed up the bay to the
+man-of-war anchorage, a much pleasanter situation than the quarantine
+harbour, where we had brought up last night. About 9.30 a.m. the
+health officers came on board, and half an hour later we had a visit
+from the custom-house official, who required Tom to sign and seal a
+declaration upon oath that he had no cargo on board, and not more coal
+than we absolutely required for our own consumption.
+
+About eleven o'clock we put on our mackintoshes and thick boots, and,
+accompanied by an interpreter, who (together with several washerwomen)
+had suddenly made his appearance on board, rowed ashore, pushing our
+way through crowds of boats laden with fruit and vegetables. The
+landing-place was close to the market, at some broken-down steps, and
+was crowded with chattering negroes, of every shade of colour. The
+quays seemed covered with piles of fruit and vegetables, discharged
+from the boats, the principal produce being sugar-cane, bananas, and
+oranges. Each side street that we came to was a little river, which
+had to be crossed, or rather forded, after paddling through the mud in
+the main thoroughfare.
+
+Our first visit was to the post-office--'no letters'--then to the
+British Consulate--'no letters'--and finally to the Legation, but
+there was nobody at home there; so we set off for the Hotel des
+Etrangers, to breakfast. Our way lay through the straggling suburbs of
+the city for about two miles, and as we drove along we could see and
+admire, despite the heavy rain, the magnificent groves of palm-trees,
+and the brilliancy and beauty of the tropical vegetation in the
+various private and public gardens that we passed.
+
+After breakfast we returned to the Legation, where we were most kindly
+received, but, much to our regret, no letters were forthcoming. We
+next paid a visit to some of the shops in the Rua do Ouvidor, for the
+sale of imitations of flowers, made from the undyed feathers of birds,
+and a large number of the more expensive varieties of ordinary
+artificial flowers, each petal consisting of the entire throat or
+breast of a humming-bird, and the leaves are made from the wings of
+beetles. They are very rare and beautiful, their manufacture being
+quite a _specialite_ of this city. The prices asked astonished us
+greatly; the cost of five sprays, which I had been commissioned to
+buy, was 29_l_., and the price of all the others was proportionately
+high. But then they wear for ever. I have had some for nine years, and
+they are as good now as when they were bought.
+
+_Saturday, August 19th_.--Though far from brilliant, the weather
+improved, and we were able to enjoy occasional glimpses of the
+beautiful scenery around us.
+
+Mr. Gough and Mr. O'Conor breakfasted with us on board, and we
+afterwards proceeded in a 'bond' to the Botanical Gardens, about seven
+miles out of the city. These 'bonds,' which are a great institution
+here, are large carriages, either open or closed, drawn sometimes by
+one, sometimes by two, sometimes by three mules. They go at a great
+pace, and run very smoothly. Ordinary carriages are dear; and as
+tramways have been laid down in almost every street and road, driving
+is a rather difficult affair. On our road we passed several
+delightful-looking private gardens. The railings were completely
+covered, some with white stephanotis and scarlet lapageria, others
+with a beautiful orange-coloured creeper and lilac bougainvillaea, or
+passion-flowers of many colours and variety. Inside we could see large
+trees with green and yellow stripes, croton-oil plants, spotted and
+veined caladiums, and dracaenas, the whole being shaded by
+orange-trees.
+
+Along the edge of Botafogo Bay there is a delightful drive, beneath a
+splendid avenue of imperial palms, extending to the gates of the
+Botanical Gardens. Each specimen rises straight up like the column of
+an Egyptian temple, and is crowned with a feathery tuft of large shiny
+dark green leaves, some thirty feet in length. The clumps of bamboos,
+too, were very fine, and nearly all the trees seemed to be full of
+curious orchids and parasites of every sort and kind.
+
+We had an agreeable drive back in the cool evening to dinner at the
+Hotel de l'Europe. The food was excellent, and included some delicious
+tiny queer-shaped oysters, which are found on the mangrove-trees,
+overhanging the water higher up the bay. We afterwards went to a
+pleasant little reception, where we enjoyed the splendid singing of
+some young Brazilian ladies, and the subsequent row off to the yacht,
+in the moonlight, was not the least delightful part of the programme.
+
+_Sunday, August 20th_.--At last a really fine day. We could now, for
+the first time, thoroughly appreciate the beauties of the noble bay of
+Nictheroy, though the distant Organ mountains were still hidden from
+our view. In the morning, we went to church on board H.M.S. 'Volage,'
+afterwards rowing across the bay to Icaraky, where we took the tramway
+to Santa Rosa. On our way we again passed many charming villas and
+gardens, similar to those we had admired yesterday, while the glorious
+and ever-attractive tropical vegetation abounded everywhere. In spite
+of the great heat, the children seemed untiring in the pursuit of
+butterflies, of which they succeeded in catching many beautiful
+specimens.
+
+_Monday, August 21st_.--After an early breakfast, we started off to
+have a look at the market. The greatest bustle and animation
+prevailed, and there were people and things to see and observe in
+endless variety. The fish-market was full of finny monsters of the
+deep, all new and strange to us, whose odd Brazilian names would
+convey to a stranger but little idea of the fish themselves. There was
+an enormous rockfish, weighing about 300 pounds, with hideous face and
+shiny back and fins; there were large ray, and skate, and
+cuttle-fish--the _pieuvre_ of Victor Hugo's 'Travailleurs de la
+Mer'--besides baskets full of the large prawns for which the coast is
+famous, eight or ten inches long, and with antennae of twelve or
+fourteen inches in length. They make up in size for want of quality,
+for they are insipid and tasteless, though, being tender, they make
+excellent curry. The oysters, on the other hand, are particularly
+small, but of the most delicious flavour. They are brought from a
+park, higher up the bay, where, as I have said, they grow on posts and
+the branches of the mangrove-tree, which hang down into the water. We
+also saw a large quantity of fine mackerel, a good many turtle and
+porpoises, and a few hammer-headed sharks. The latter are very curious
+creatures, not unlike an ordinary shark, but with a remarkable
+hammer-shaped projection on either side of their noses for which it is
+difficult to imagine a use.
+
+In the fruit-market were many familiar bright-coloured fruits; for it
+is now the depth of winter at Rio, and the various kinds that we saw
+were all such as would bear transport to England. Fat, jet-black
+negresses, wearing turbans on their heads, strings of coloured beads
+on their necks and arms, and single long white garments, which
+appeared to be continually slipping off their shoulders, here presided
+over brilliant-looking heaps of oranges, bananas, pineapples,
+passion-fruit, tomatoes, apples, pears, capsicums and peppers,
+sugar-cane, cabbage-palms, cherimoyas, and bread-fruit.
+
+In another part of the market all sorts of live birds were for sale,
+with a few live beasts, such as deer, monkeys, pigs, guinea-pigs in
+profusion, rats, cats, dogs, marmosets, and a dear little lion-monkey,
+very small and rather red, with a beautiful head and mane, who roared
+exactly like a real lion in miniature. We saw also cages full of small
+flamingoes, snipe of various kinds, and a great many birds of smaller
+size, with feathers of all shades of blue, red, and green, and
+metallic hues of brilliant lustre, besides parrots, macaws, cockatoos
+innumerable, and torchas, on stands. The torcha is a bright-coloured
+black and yellow bird, about as big as a starling, which puts its
+little head on one side and takes flies from one's fingers in the
+prettiest and most enticing manner. Unfortunately, it is impossible to
+introduce it into England, as it cannot stand the change of climate.
+The other birds included guinea-fowls, ducks, cocks and hens, pigeons,
+doves, quails, &c., and many other varieties less familiar or quite
+unknown to us. Altogether the visit was an extremely interesting one,
+and well repaid us for our early rising.
+
+At eleven o'clock we started for the Petropolis steamer, which took us
+alongside a wooden pier, from the end of which the train started, and
+we were soon wending our way through sugar and coffee plantations,
+formed in the midst of the forest of palms and other tropical trees.
+An Englishman has made a large clearing here, and has established a
+fine farm, which he hopes to work successfully by means of immigrant
+labour.
+
+After a journey of twenty minutes in the train, we reached the
+station, at the foot of a hill, where we found several four-mule
+carriages awaiting our arrival. The drive up from the station to the
+town, over a pass in the Organ mountains, was superb. At each turn of
+the road we had an ever-varying view of the city of Rio and its
+magnificent bay. And then the banks of this tropical high-road! From
+out a mass of rich verdure grew lovely scarlet begonias, and spotted
+caladiums, shaded by graceful tree-ferns and overhung by trees full of
+exquisite parasites and orchids. Among these, the most conspicuous,
+after the palms, are the tall thin-stemmed sloth-trees, so called from
+their being a favourite resort of the sloth, who with great difficulty
+crawls up into one of them, remains there until he has demolished
+every leaf, and then passes on to the next tree.
+
+The pace of the mules, up the steep incline, under a broiling sun, was
+really wonderful. Half-way up we stopped to change, at a buvette,
+where we procured some excellent Brazilia coffee, of fine but
+exceedingly bitter flavour. Our next halt, midway between the buvette
+and the top of the hill, was at a spring of clear sparkling water,
+where we had an opportunity of collecting some ferns and flowers; and
+on reaching the summit we stopped once more, to enjoy the fine view
+over the Pass and the bay of Nictheroy. The descent towards Petropolis
+then commenced; it lies in the hollow of the hills, with a river
+flowing through the centre of its broad streets, on either side of
+which are villas and avenues of noble trees. Altogether it reminded me
+of Bagneres-de-Luchon, in the Pyrenees, though the general effect is
+unfortunately marred by the gay and rather too fantastic painting of
+some of the houses.
+
+_Tuesday, August 22nd_.--We were called at half-past five, and, after
+a hasty breakfast, started on horseback by seven o'clock for the
+Virgin Forest, about six miles from Petropolis. After leaving the town
+and its suburbs, we pursued our way by rough winding paths, across
+which huge moths and butterflies flitted, and humming-birds buzzed in
+the almond-trees. After a ride of an hour and a half, we entered the
+silence and gloom of a vast forest. On every side extended a tangled
+mass of wild, luxuriant vegetation: giant-palms, and tree-ferns, and
+parasites are to be seen in all directions, growing wherever they can
+find root-hold. Sometimes they kill the tree which they favour with
+their attentions--one creeper, in particular, being called 'Mata-pao'
+or 'Kill-tree;' but, as a rule, they seem to get on very well
+together, and to depend mutually upon one another for nourishment and
+support. The most striking of these creepers is, perhaps, the liane,
+whose tendrils grow straight downwards to the ground, twisting
+themselves together in knots and bundles. Occasionally one sees,
+suspended from a tree, at a height of some fifty feet, a large lump of
+moss, from which scarlet orchids are growing; looking like an enormous
+hanging flower-basket. All colours in Brazil, whether of birds,
+insects, or flowers, are brilliant in the extreme. Blue, violet,
+orange, scarlet, and yellow are found in the richest profusion, and no
+pale or faint tints are to be seen. Even white seems purer, clearer,
+and deeper than the white of other countries.
+
+We had a long wet walk in the forest; the mosses and ferns being kept
+moist and green by the innumerable little streams of water which
+abound everywhere. Owing to the thickness of the surrounding jungle,
+it was impossible to stray from our very narrow path, notwithstanding
+the attractions of humming-birds, butterflies, and flowers. At last we
+came to an opening in the wood, whence we had a splendid view
+seawards, and where it was decided to turn round and retrace our steps
+through the forest. After walking some distance we found our horses
+waiting, and after a hot but pleasant ride reached Petropolis by
+twelve o'clock, in time for breakfast. Letter-writing and
+butterfly-catching occupied the afternoon until four o'clock, when I
+was taken out for a drive in a comfortable little phaeton, with a
+pretty pair of horses, while the rest of the party walked out to see a
+little more of Petropolis and its environs. We drove past the
+Emperor's palace--an Italian villa, standing in the middle of a large
+garden--the new church, and the houses of the principal inhabitants,
+most of which are shut up just now, as everybody is out of town, but
+it all looked very green and pleasant. It was interesting to see a
+curious breed of dogs, descended from the bloodhounds formerly used in
+hunting the poor Indians.
+
+_Wednesday, August 23rd_.--At six o'clock we assembled all on the
+balcony of the hotel to wait for the coach, which arrived shortly
+afterwards. There was some little delay and squabbling before we all
+found ourselves safely established on the coach, but starting was
+quite another matter, for the four white mules resolutely refused to
+move, without a vast amount of screaming and shouting and plunging. We
+had to pull up once or twice before we got clear of the town, to allow
+more passengers to be somehow or other squeezed in, and at each fresh
+start similar objections on the part of the mules had to be overcome.
+
+The air felt fresh when we started, but before we had proceeded far we
+came into a thick, cold, wet fog, which, after the heat of the last
+few weeks, seemed to pierce us to the very marrow. Eight miles farther
+on the four frisky white mules were exchanged for five steady
+dun-coloured ones, which were in their turn replaced after a
+seven-mile stage by four nice bays, who took us along at a tremendous
+pace. The sun began by this time to penetrate the mist, and the
+surrounding country became visible. We found that we were following
+the course of the river, passing through an avenue of coral-trees,
+loaded with the most brilliant flowers and fruit imaginable, and full
+of parroquets and fluttering birds of many hues.
+
+We stopped at several small villages, and at about 11 a.m. reached
+Entre Rios, having changed mules seven times, and done the 59-1/2
+miles in four hours and fifty minutes, including stoppages--pretty
+good work, especially as the heat during the latter portion of the
+journey had been as great as the cold was at the commencement. The
+term 'cold' must here be taken only in a relative sense, for the
+thermometer was never lower than 48 deg., though, having been accustomed
+for a long while to 85 deg., we felt the change severely.
+
+After a capital breakfast at the inn near the station, we got into the
+train and began a very hot dusty journey over the Serra to Palmeiras,
+which place was reached at 4 p.m. We were met on our arrival by Dr.
+Gunning, who kindly made room for Tom and me at his house, the rest of
+our party proceeding to the hotel. The view from the windows of the
+house, which is situated on the very edge of a hill, over the
+mountains of the Serra, glowing with the light of the setting sun, was
+perfectly enchanting; and after a refreshing cold bath one was able to
+appreciate it as it deserved. A short stroll into the forest adjoining
+the house proved rich in treasures, for in a few minutes I had
+gathered twenty-six varieties of ferns, including gold and silver
+ferns, two creeping ferns, and many other kinds. The moon rose, and
+the fireflies flashed about among the palm-trees, as we sat in the
+verandah before dinner, while in several places on the distant hills
+we could see circles of bright flames, where the forest had been set
+on fire in order to make clearings.
+
+We were up next morning in time to see the sun rise from behind the
+mountains, and as it gradually became warmer the humming-birds and
+butterflies came out and buzzed and flitted among the flowers in front
+of our windows. We had planned to devote the day to a visit to Barra,
+and it was, therefore, necessary to hurry to the station by eight
+o'clock to meet the train, where we stopped twenty minutes to
+breakfast at what appeared to be a capital hotel, built above the
+station. The rooms were large and lofty, everything was scrupulously
+clean, and the dishes most appetising-looking. Our carriage was then
+shunted and hooked on to the other train, and we proceeded to the
+station of Santa Anna, where Mr. Faro met us with eight mules and
+horses, and a large old-fashioned carriage, which held some of us, the
+rest of the party galloping on in front. We galloped also, and upset
+one unfortunate horse, luckily without doing him any harm. After a
+couple of miles of a rough road we arrived at the gates of the Baron's
+grounds, where the old negro slave-coachman amused us very much by
+_ordering_ his young master to conduct the equestrians round to the
+house by another way. Beneath the avenue of palm-trees, leading from
+the gates to the house, grew orange, lemon, and citron trees, trained
+as espaliers, while behind them again tall rose-bushes and
+pomegranates showed their bright faces. Driving through an archway we
+arrived at the house, and, with much politeness and many bows, were
+conducted indoors, in order that we might rest ourselves and get rid
+of some of the dust of our journey.
+
+Santa Anna is one of the largest coffee fazendas in this part of
+Brazil. The house occupies three sides of a square, in the middle of
+which heaps of coffee were spread out to dry in the sun. The centre
+building is the dwelling-house, with a narrow strip of garden, full of
+sweet-smelling flowers, in front of it; the right wing is occupied by
+the slaves' shops and warehouses, and by the chapel; while the left
+wing contains the stables, domestic offices, and other slave-rooms.
+
+[Illustration: The Slave Village, Fazenda, Santa Anna.]
+
+By law, masters are bound to give their slaves one day's rest in every
+seven, and any work the slaves may choose to do on that day is paid
+for at the same rate as free labour. But the day selected for this
+purpose is not necessarily Sunday; and on adjoining fazendas different
+days are invariably chosen, in order to prevent the slaves from
+meeting and getting into mischief. Thursday (to-day) was Sunday on
+this estate, and we soon saw all the slaves mustering in holiday
+attire in the shade of one of the verandahs. They were first
+inspected, and then ranged in order, the children being placed in
+front, the young women next, then the old women, the old men, and
+finally the young men. In this order they marched into the corridor
+facing the chapel, to hear mass. The priest and his acolyte, in
+gorgeous robes, performed the usual service, and the slaves chanted
+the responses in alternate companies, so that sopranos, contraltos,
+tenors, and basses, contrasted in a striking and effective manner. The
+singing, indeed, was excellent; far better than in many churches at
+home. After the conclusion of the mass the master shook hands with
+everybody, exchanged good wishes with his slaves, and dismissed them.
+While they were dawdling about, gossiping in the verandah, I had a
+closer look at the babies, which had all been brought to church. They
+seemed of every shade of colour, the complexions of some being quite
+fair, but the youngest, a dear little woolly-headed thing, was black
+as jet, and only three weeks old. The children all seemed to be on
+very good terms with their master and his overseers, and not a bit
+afraid of them. They are fed most liberally, and looked fat and
+healthy. For breakfast they have coffee and bread; for dinner, fresh
+pork alternately with dried beef, and black beans (the staple food of
+the poor of this country); and for supper they have coffee, bread, and
+mandioca, or tapioca.
+
+Returning to the house, we sat down, a party of thirty, to an
+elaborate breakfast, the table being covered with all sorts of
+Brazilian delicacies, after which several complimentary speeches were
+made, and we all started off to walk round the fazenda. Our first
+visit was to the little schoolchildren, thirty-four in number, who
+sang very nicely. Then to the hospital, a clean, airy building, in
+which there were happily but few patients, and next we inspected the
+new machinery, worked by water-power, for cleaning the coffee and
+preparing it for market. The harvest lasts from May to August. The
+best quality of coffee is picked before it is quite ripe, crushed to
+free it from the husk, and then dried in the sun, sometimes in heaps,
+and sometimes raked out flat, in order to gain the full benefit of the
+heat. It is afterwards gathered up into baskets and carefully picked
+over, and this, being very light work, is generally performed by young
+married women with babies. There were nineteen tiny piccaninnies, in
+baskets, beside their mothers, in one room we entered, and in another
+there were twenty just able to run about.
+
+Cassava is an important article of food here, and it was interesting
+to watch the various processes by which it is turned into flour,
+tapioca, or starch. As it is largely exported, there seems no reason
+why it should not be introduced into India, for the ease with which it
+is cultivated and propagated, the extremes of temperature it will
+bear, and the abundance of its crop, all tend to recommend it. We went
+on to look at the maize being shelled, crushed, and ground into coarse
+or fine flour, for cakes and bread, and the process of crushing the
+sugar-cane, turning its juice into sugar and rum, and its refuse into
+potash. All the food manufactured here is used on the estate; coffee
+alone is exported. I felt thoroughly exhausted by the time we returned
+to the house, only to exchange adieus and step into the carriage on
+our way to Barra by rail _en route_ to Rio de Janeiro. After passing
+through several long tunnels at the top of the Serra, the line drops
+down to Palmeiras, after which the descent became very picturesque, as
+we passed, by steep inclines, through virgin forests full of creepers,
+ferns, flowers, and orchids. The sunset was magnificent, and the
+subsequent coolness of the atmosphere most grateful. Leaving the
+Emperor's palace of Sao Christovao behind, Rio was entered from a
+fresh side. It seemed a long drive through the streets to the Hotel de
+l'Europe, where, after an excellent though hurried dinner, we
+contrived to be in time for a private representation at the Alcazar.
+As a rule, ladies do not go to this theatre, but there were a good
+many there on the present occasion. Neither the play nor the actors,
+however, were very interesting, and all our party were excessively
+tired; so we left early, and had a delightful row off to the yacht, in
+the bright moonlight.
+
+_Monday, August 28th_.--We have all been so much interested in the
+advertisements we read in the daily papers of slaves to be sold or
+hired, that arrangements were made with a Brazilian gentleman for some
+of our party to have an opportunity of seeing the way in which these
+transactions are carried on. No Englishman is allowed to hold slaves
+here, and it is part of the business of the Legation to see that this
+law is strictly enforced. The secrets of their trade are accordingly
+jealously guarded by the natives, especially from the English. The
+gentlemen had therefore to disguise themselves as much as possible,
+one pretending to be a rich Yankee, who had purchased large estates
+between Santos and San Paulo, which he had determined to work with
+slave instead of coolie labour. He was supposed to have come to Rio to
+select some slaves, but would be obliged to see and consult his
+partner before deciding on purchase. They were taken to a small shop
+in the city, and, after some delay, were conducted to a room upstairs,
+where they waited a quarter of an hour. Twenty-two men and eleven
+women and children were then brought in for inspection. They declared
+themselves suitable for a variety of occupations, in-door and out, and
+all appeared to look anxiously at their possible purchaser, with a
+view to ascertain what they had to hope for in the future. One couple
+in particular, a brother and sister, about fourteen and fifteen years
+old respectively, were most anxious not to be separated, but to be
+sold together; and the tiny children seemed quite frightened at being
+spoken to or touched by the white men. Eight men and five women having
+been specially selected as fit subjects for further consideration, the
+visit terminated.
+
+The daily Brazilian papers are full of advertisements of slaves for
+sale, and descriptions of men, pigs, children, cows, pianos, women,
+houses, &c., to be disposed of, are inserted in the most
+indiscriminate manner. In one short half-column of the 'Jornal do
+Commercio,' published within the last day or two, the following
+announcements, amongst many similar ones, appear side by side:--
+
+
+VENDE-SE uma escrava, de 22 annos,
+boa figura, lava, engomma e cose bem;
+informa-se na rua de S. Pedro n. 97.
+
+FOR SALE.--A female slave, 22 years of
+age, a good figure, washes, irons, and
+sews well; for particulars apply at No. 97
+rua de S. Pedro.
+
+
+VENDE-SE ou aluga-se um rico piano
+forte do autor Erard, de 3 cordas, por
+280$, garantido; na rua da Quitanda n. 42,
+2 andar.
+
+FOR SALE, OR TO BE LET ON
+Hire.--A splendid trichord pianoforte
+by Erard, for $280, guaranteed; apply at
+rua da Quitanda No. 42, 2nd floor.
+
+
+VENDE-SE, por 1,500$, um escravo de
+20 annos, para servico de padaria; na
+rua da Princeza dos Cajueiros n. 97.
+
+TO BE SOLD FOR $1,500.--A male
+slave 20 years of age, fit for a baker's
+establishment; apply at rua da Princeza dos
+Cajueiros No. 97.
+
+
+VENDE-SE uma machina Singer, para
+qualquer costura, trabalha perfeitamente,
+por preco muito commodo; trata-se
+na rua do Sabao n. 95.
+
+FOR SALE.--On very reasonable terms,
+a Singer's sewing-machine, adapted for
+any description of work; works splendidly:
+apply at No. 95 rua do Sabao.
+
+
+VENDE-SE uma preta moca, boa figura e
+de muito boa indole, com tres filhos,
+sendo uma negrinha de 6 annos, um moleque
+de 5 e uma ingenua de 3, cabenda cozinhar
+bem, lavar e engommar; na mesma casa
+vende-se so uma negrinha de 12 annos, de
+conducta afiancada e muito propria para
+servico de casa de familia, por ja ter bons
+principios, tendo vindo de Santa Catharina;
+na rua da Uruguayana n. 90 sobrado.
+
+FOR SALE.--A good black woman, good
+figure, good disposition, with three
+children, who are a little black girl 6 years
+of age, a black boy of 5, and a child 3
+years of age; she is a good cook, washes and
+irons well. At the same house there is likewise
+for sale a little black girl 12 years of
+age: her character will be guaranteed; she
+is well adapted for the service of a family,
+as she has had a good beginning, having
+come from Santa Catharina; apply at No.
+90 rua da Uruguayana, first floor.
+
+
+VENDE-SE o Diccionario portuguez de
+Lacerda, em dous grandes volumes, novo,
+vindo pelo ultimo paquete, por 30$, custao
+aqui 40$; na rua do Hospicio n. 15, 2d
+andar.
+
+FOR SALE.--Lacerda's Portuguese Dictionary,
+in two large volumes, quite new,
+arrived by the last mail, price $30, costs here
+$40; No. 15 rua do Hospicio, 2nd floor.
+
+
+VENDE-SE uma preta de meia idade,
+que cozinha, lava, e engomma com perfeicao;
+para tratar na rua do Viscande de
+Itauna n. 12.
+
+FOR SALE.--A middle-aged black woman,
+who is a first-rate cook, washes
+and irons splendidly; for particulars apply
+at No. 12 rua do Viscande de Itauna No.
+12.
+
+
+VENDEM-SE arreios para carrocinhas
+de pao; na rua do General Camara n.
+86, placa.
+
+FOR SALE.--Harnesses for small carts
+for delivery of bread; apply at No. 86
+rua do General Camara.
+
+
+VENDEM-SE 20 moleques, de 14 a 20
+annos, vindos do Maranhao no ultimo
+vapor; na rua da Prainha n. 72.
+
+FOR SALE.--20 young blacks from 14
+to 20 years of age just arrived from Maranham
+by the last steamer; No. 72 rua da
+Prainha.
+
+We had many visitors to breakfast to-day, and it was nearly two
+o'clock before we could set off for the shore _en route_ to Tijuca. We
+drove nearly as far as the Botanical Gardens, where it had been
+arranged that horses should meet us; but our party was such a large
+one, including children and servants, that some little difficulty
+occurred at this point in making a fair start. It was therefore late
+before we started, the clouds were beginning to creep down the sides
+of the hills, and it had grown very dusk by the time we reached the
+Chinisi river. Soon afterwards the rain began to come down in such
+tropical torrents, that our thin summer clothing was soaked through
+and through long before we reached the Tijuca. At last, to our great
+joy, we saw ahead of us large plantations of bananas, and then some
+gas-lights, which exist even in this remote locality. We followed them
+for some little distance, but my horse appeared to have such a very
+decided opinion as to the proper direction for us to take, that we
+finally decided to let him have his own way, for it was by this time
+pitch dark, and none of us had ever been this road before. As we
+hoped, the horse knew his own stables, and we soon arrived at the door
+of White's hotel, miserable, drenched objects, looking forward to a
+complete change of clothing. Unfortunately the cart with our luggage
+had not arrived, so it was in clothes borrowed from kind friends that
+we at last sat down, a party of about forty, to a sort of table-d'hote
+dinner, and it continued to pour with rain during the whole evening,
+only clearing up just at bed-time.
+
+_Tuesday, August 29th_.--After all the fine weather we have had
+lately, it was provoking to find, on getting up this morning, that the
+rain still came steadily down. Daylight enabled us to see what a
+quaint-looking place this hotel is. It consists of a series of low
+wooden detached buildings, mostly one story high, with verandahs on
+both sides, built round a long courtyard, in the centre of which are a
+garden and some large trees. It is more like a boarding-house,
+however, than an hotel, as there is a fixed daily charge for visitors,
+who have to be provided with a letter of introduction! The situation
+and gardens are good; it contains among other luxuries a
+drawing-room, with a delightful swimming-bath for ladies, and another
+for gentlemen. A mountain stream is turned into two large square
+reservoirs, where you can disport yourself under the shade of bananas
+and palm trees, while orange trees, daturas, poinsettias, and other
+plants, in full bloom, drop their fragrant flowers into the crystal
+water. There is also a nice little bathing-house, with a douche
+outside; and the general arrangements seem really perfect. The views
+from the walks around the hotel and in the forest above are beautiful,
+as, indeed, they are from every eminence in the neighbourhood of Rio.
+
+During the morning, the weather cleared sufficiently for us to go down
+to 'The Boulders,' huge masses of rock, either of the glacial period,
+or else thrown out from some mighty volcano into the valley beneath.
+Here they form great caverns and caves, overhung with creepers, and so
+blocked up at the entrance, that it is difficult to find the way into
+them. The effect of the alternate darkness and light, amid twisted
+creepers, some like gigantic snakes, others neatly coiled in true
+man-of-war fashion, is very striking and fantastic. Every crevice is
+full of ferns and orchids and curious plants, while moths and
+butterflies flit about in every direction. Imagine, if you can,
+scarlet butterflies gaily spotted, yellow butterflies with orange
+edgings, butterflies with dark blue velvety-looking upper wings, the
+under surface studded with bright owl-like peacock eyes, grey Atlas
+moths, and, crowning beauty of all, metallic blue butterflies, which
+are positively dazzling, even when seen in a shop, dead. Imagine what
+they must be like, as they dart hither and thither, reflecting the
+bright sunshine from their wings, or enveloped in the sombre shade of
+a forest. Most of them measure from two to ten inches in length from
+wing to wing, and many others flit about, equally remarkable for their
+beauty, though not so large. Swallow-tails, of various colours, with
+tails almost as long, in proportion to their bodies, as those of their
+feathered namesakes; god-parents and 'eighty-eights,' with the
+figures 88 plainly marked on the reverse side of their rich blue or
+crimson wings. In fact, if nature could by any possibility be gaudy,
+one might almost say that she is so in this part of the world.
+
+From 'The Boulders' we went down a kind of natural staircase in the
+rock to the small cascade, which, owing to the recent rains, appeared
+to the best advantage, the black rocks and thick vegetation forming a
+fine background to the sheet of flowing white water and foam. Our way
+lay first through some castor-oil plantations, and then along the side
+of a stream, fringed with rare ferns, scarlet begonias, and grey
+ageratum. We returned to the hotel, too late for the general luncheon,
+and, after a short rest, went out for a gallop in the direction of the
+peak of Tijuca, past the large waterfall, the 'Ladies' Mile,' and
+'Grey's View.' The forest is Government property; the roads are
+therefore excellent, and are in many places planted with flowers and
+shrubs, rare even here. It seems a waste of money, however; for there
+is hardly any one to make use of the wide roads, and the forest would
+appear quite as beautiful in its pristine luxuriance. To our eyes the
+addition of flowers from other countries is no improvement, though the
+feeling is otherwise here. More than once I have had a bouquet of
+common stocks given to me as a grand present, while orchids,
+gardenias, stephanotis, large purple, pink, and white azaleas,
+orange-blossom, and roses, were growing around in unheeded profusion.
+
+_Wednesday, August 30th_.--Once more a wet morning; but as it cleared
+towards noon, we ordered horses and some luncheon, and went up to
+Pedro Bonito. The ride was pleasant enough at first, but as we mounted
+higher and higher, we got into the clouds and lost the view. Finally,
+there seemed nothing for it but to halt near the top, under a grove of
+orange-trees, lunch in the pouring rain, and return without having
+reached the summit.
+
+_Friday, September 1st_.--At three o'clock this morning, when I
+awoke, I saw at last a bright, clear sky, and at five, finding that
+there was every prospect of a beautiful sunrise, we sent for horses,
+ate our early breakfast, and set off for the peak of Tijuca. Step by
+step we climbed, first through the grounds of the hotel, then through
+the forest, till we reached 'The Bamboos,' a favourite halting-place,
+by the side of a stream, near which grow, in waving tufts, the
+graceful trees which lend their name to the spot. It was very
+beautiful in the hill-side forest, with a new prospect opening out at
+every step, and set in an ever-varying natural framework of foliage
+and flowers. There was not sufficient time to linger, however, as we
+would fain have done, in the cool and shady paths, occasionally
+illumed by the bright rays of the sun, shining through the foliage of
+noble palms, the fronds of tree-ferns, and the spiral stems of
+many-coloured creepers.
+
+Before reaching the top of the peak, there are twenty-nine wooden and
+ninety-six stone steps to be ascended, at the foot of which we tied
+our horses. An iron chain is hung by the side to assist you, without
+which it would be rather giddy work, for the steps are steep, and
+there is a sheer precipice on one side of them. Arrived at the top,
+the scene was glorious; on every side mountains beyond mountains
+stretch far away into the distance, and one can see as far north as
+Cape Frio, and southwards as far as Rio Grande do Sul, while beneath
+lies the bay of Rio, with its innumerable islands, islets, and
+indentations. All too soon we had to scramble down again, and mount
+our horses for a hurried return to the hotel, there being barely time
+for lunch and a scramble to the yacht.
+
+_Monday, September 4th_.--We were all up very early this morning,
+superintending the preparations for our eldest boy's departure for
+England. The yacht had been gaily dressed with flags, in honour of the
+anniversary of the Emperor's wedding-day; but it must be confessed
+that our own feelings were hardly in accordance with these external
+symbols of joy. Breakfast was a melancholy meal, and I fear that the
+visitors from the 'Volage' were not very well entertained. After
+breakfast, we went ashore to the market, to get a couple of
+lion-monkeys, which had been kept for us, and which Tab was to take
+home with him to present to the Zoological Gardens. At one o'clock the
+steam-launch from the 'Volage' came alongside and embarked the luggage
+and servants. Half an hour later it returned for us; then came many
+tearful farewells to the crew, and we set off. We knew the parting had
+to be made, but this did not lessen our grief: for although it is at
+all times hard to say good-bye for a long period to those nearest and
+dearest to you, it is especially so in a foreign land, with the
+prospect of a long voyage on both sides. Moreover, it is extremely
+uncertain when we shall hear of our boy's safe arrival; not, I fear,
+until we get to Valparaiso, and then only by telegram--a long time to
+look forward to. Over the next half-hour I had better draw a veil.
+
+At two o'clock precisely, just after we had left the steamer, the
+starting bell rang, and the 'Cotopaxi' steamed away. As she passed the
+yacht, all our flags were dipped and the guns fired. Then we could see
+her rolling on the bar, for, calm as the water was in the bay, there
+was a heavy swell outside; and then, all too soon, we lost sight of
+her, as she sank,
+
+    ' ... with all we love, below the verge.'
+
+We heard to-day that, the Saturday before our first arrival at Rio,
+the bar was quite impassable, even for a man-of-war, and that,
+although she succeeded the next day, the sea was extremely rough.
+
+On our return to the 'Sunbeam,' I went to bed to rest, and the
+remainder of the party went ashore. A great many visitors came on
+board in the course of the afternoon; some remained to dine with us.
+At half-past nine we all went on shore again to a ball at the Casino,
+the grand public room in Rio, to which we had been invited some days
+ago. It seemed a splendid place, beautifully decorated in white and
+gold and crimson, with frescoes and pictures let into the walls, and
+surrounded by galleries. It is capable of containing fifteen hundred
+persons, and I believe that there were even more than that number
+present on the occasion of the ball given to the Duke of Edinburgh
+some years ago. The arrangement of the large cloakrooms,
+refreshment-rooms, and passages downstairs, and the balconies and
+supper-rooms upstairs, is very convenient. The ball this evening being
+comparatively a small affair, the lower rooms only were used, and
+proved amply sufficient. There were not a great many ladies present,
+but amongst those we saw some were extremely pretty, and all were
+exquisitely dressed in the latest fashions from Paris. The toilettes
+of the younger ones looked fresh and simple, while those of the
+married ladies displayed considerable richness and taste; for although
+Brazilian ladies do not go out much, and, as a rule, remain _en
+peignoir_ until late in the afternoon, they never fail to exhibit
+great judgment in the selection of their costumes.
+
+The floor was excellent, but the band made rather too much noise, and
+the dancing was different, both in style and arrangement, from what we
+are accustomed to at home.
+
+The time had now come when we had to say farewell to the many kind
+friends whom we have met here, and who have made life so pleasant to
+us during the last three weeks, in order that we might return to the
+yacht, to complete our preparation for an early start. The last
+leave-takings were soon over, and, with mutually expressed hopes that
+we might ere long meet some of our friends in England, Tom and I drove
+off, in the bright moonlight, to the quay, where our boat was waiting
+for us. The other members of our party found the attractions of the
+ball so irresistible that they were unable to tear themselves away
+until a much later nour.
+
+[Illustration: The Three Navigators]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+
+THE RIVER PLATE.
+
+    _Blue, glossy green, and velvet black,_
+    _They coiled and swam; and every track_
+    _Was a flash of golden fire._
+
+_Tuesday, September 5th_.--We got under way at 6 a.m., and soon bade
+adieu to Rio, where we have spent so many happy days, and to our
+friends on board H.M.S. 'Volage' and 'Ready,' with whom we
+interchanged salutes in passing. It was a dull wet morning, and we
+could not see much of the beauties we were leaving behind us. The peak
+of Tijuca and the summit of the Corcovado were scarcely visible, and
+the Sugarloaf and Gavia looked cold and grey in the early mist. It was
+not long before we were rolling on the bar, and then tumbling about in
+very uncomfortable fashion in the rough sea outside. One by one we all
+disappeared below, where most of us remained during the greater part
+of the day. As for me, I went to bed for good at six o'clock in the
+evening, but was called up again at ten, to see some large bonitos
+playing about the bows of the yacht. It was really worth the trouble
+of getting up and climbing quite into the bows of the vessel to watch
+them, as they gambolled and frisked about, brightly illumined by the
+phosphorescence of the water, now swimming together steadily in pairs
+or fours, now starting in sudden pursuit of one of their number, who
+would make an independent rush forward in advance of his companions.
+
+_Saturday, September 9th_.--The last three days have been showery,
+with squalls which have freshened to a gale, and we are now scudding
+along, under all storm canvas, followed by crowds of cape-pigeons and
+cape-hens, and a few albatrosses. Towards this evening, however, the
+wind fell light, and we got up steam, in order to be prepared for any
+emergency, as a calm is frequently succeeded on this coast by a
+_pampero_, and we are now approaching a lee shore.
+
+_Sunday, September 10th_.--Tom has been on deck nearly all night. The
+shore is very low and difficult to distinguish, and the lights are
+badly kept. If the lighthouse-keeper happens to have plenty of oil,
+and is not out shooting or fishing, he lights his lamp; otherwise, he
+omits to perform this rather important part of his duties. The
+lighthouses can therefore hardly be said to be of much use. About 5
+a.m. Kindred rushed down into our cabin, and woke Tom, calling out,
+'Land to leeward, sir!' and then rushed up on deck again. The first
+glimmer of dawn had enabled him to see that we were running straight
+on to the low sandy shore, about three miles off, a very strong
+current having set us ten miles out of our course. The yacht's head
+was accordingly at once put round, and steaming seaward we soon left
+all danger behind. The sun rose brilliantly, and the weather during
+the day was very fine. Morning service was impossible, owing to the
+necessity for a constant observation of the land; but, after making
+the lighthouse on Santa Maria, we had prayers at 4.30 p.m., with the
+hymn, 'For those at Sea.' In the night we made the light on Flores,
+burning brightly, and before morning those in the harbour of Monte
+Video.
+
+_Monday, September 11th_.--After making the Flores light we proceeded
+slowly, and dropped our anchor in the outer roads of Monte Video at 4
+a.m. At seven o'clock we got it up again, and by eight were anchored
+close to the shore. We found that our arrival was expected, and the
+health-officers' boat was soon alongside. Next came an officer from
+the United States' man-of-war 'Frolic,' with polite messages and
+offers of service; and then a steam-launch belonging to the Pacific
+Company, and another from the Consul, Major Monro, with piles of
+letters and newspapers for us.
+
+Monte Video, as seen from the water, is not an imposing-looking place.
+On the opposite side of the entrance to the harbour rises a hill,
+called the Cerro, 450 feet high, from which the town derives its name,
+and further inland, on the town side, is another eminence, 200 feet
+high, called the Cerrito. With these exceptions the surrounding
+country looks perfectly flat, without even a tree to break the
+monotony.
+
+Soon after breakfast we went ashore--in more senses of the word than
+one; for they have commenced to build a mole for the protection of
+small vessels, which, in its unfinished state, is not yet visible
+above the water. The consequence was that, at a distance of about half
+a mile from the landing-steps, we rowed straight on to the submerged
+stonework, but fortunately got off again very quickly, without having
+sustained any damage. On landing, we found ourselves opposite the
+Custom House, a fine building, with which we afterwards made a closer
+acquaintance.
+
+There is a large and very good hotel here, l'Hotel Oriental. It is a
+handsome building outside, and the interior is full of marble courts,
+stone corridors, and lofty rooms, deliciously cool in the hottest
+weather. Having procured a carriage, Tom and I and the children drove
+through the streets, which are wide and handsome, though badly paved,
+and so full of holes that it is a wonder how the springs of a carriage
+can last a week. The houses seem built chiefly in the Italian style of
+architecture, with fine stucco fronts, and in many cases marble floors
+and facings, while the courtyards, seen through the grilles, blazed
+with flowers. All the lower windows were strongly barred, a precaution
+by no means unnecessary against the effects of the revolutions, which
+are of such frequent occurrence in this country. To enable the
+inhabitants the better to enjoy the sea-breeze, the tops of the houses
+are all flat, which gives the town, from a distance, somewhat of an
+eastern appearance. There are a great many Italian immigrants here,
+and most of the building and plastering work is done by them.
+
+The Paseo del Molino is the best part of the town, where all the rich
+merchants reside in quintas, surrounded by pretty gardens. They are
+very fantastic in their ideas of architectural style, and appear to
+bestow their patronage impartially, not to say indiscriminately, upon
+Gothic cathedrals, Alhambra palaces, Swiss cottages, Italian villas,
+and Turkish mosques. Except for this variety, the suburb has somewhat
+the appearance of the outskirts of many of the towns on the Riviera,
+with the same sub-tropical surroundings. These are, however, hard
+times on the River Plate, and more than half the quintas are deserted
+and falling into ruins. On our way back, by the Union Road, we met a
+great many of the native bullock-carts going home from market. These
+huge conveyances are covered with hides, and are drawn by teams of
+from two to twelve bullocks, yoked in pairs, and driven by a man on
+horseback, who carries a sharp-pointed goad, with which he prods the
+animals all round, at intervals. Dressed in a full white linen shirt
+and trousers, with his bright poncho and curious saddle-gear, he forms
+no unimportant figure in the picturesque scene. In the large
+market-place there are hundreds of these carts, with their owners
+encamped around them.
+
+When we at last arrived on board the yacht again, at three o'clock, we
+found that the miseries of coaling were not yet over, and that there
+had been numerous visitors from the shore. Everything on deck looked
+black, while below all was pitch dark and airless, every opening and
+crevice having been closed and covered with tarpaulin, to keep out the
+coal dust. It took seven hours to complete the work, instead of two,
+as was hoped and promised, so our chance of starting to-day is over.
+This seemed the more disappointing, because, had we foreseen the
+delay, we might have made other arrangements for seeing more on shore.
+
+_Tuesday, September 12th_.--The anchor was up, and we were already
+beginning to steam away when I came on deck this morning, just in time
+to see the first faint streaks of dawn appearing in the grey sky. The
+River Plate here is over a hundred miles wide, and its banks are very
+flat; so there was nothing to be seen, except the two little hills of
+Cerro and Cerrito and the town of Monte Video, fast vanishing in the
+distance. The channels are badly buoyed, and there are shoals and
+wrecks on all sides. The lightships are simply old hulks, with no
+special marks by which to distinguish them; and as they themselves
+look exactly like wrecks, they are not of much assistance in the
+navigation, which is very confusing, and sometimes perilous. Once we
+very nearly ran aground, but discovered just in time that the vessel
+we were steering for with confidence was only a wreck, on a dangerous
+shoal, and that the lightship itself was further ahead. The yacht was
+immediately put about, and we just skirted the bank in turning.
+
+The weather improved during the day, and a fine sunset was followed
+by a clear starlight night. At 10.30 p.m. we dropped our anchor
+outside all the other vessels in the roads at Buenos Ayres, eight
+miles from the shore. The lightship only carried an ordinary riding
+light, like any other vessel, so that it was almost impossible, unless
+you knew the port very well, to go in closer to the land at night.
+
+_Wednesday, September 13th_.--Daylight did not enable us to
+distinguish the town, for the river here is wide and the banks are
+low, and we were lying a long way from the shore, outside a great many
+fine-looking ships, at anchor in the roads. About nine o'clock a
+German captain, in a large whale-boat, came alongside and told us we
+were nearly eight miles from Buenos Ayres. Tom arranged with him to
+take us ashore; and accordingly we soon started. The water was smooth
+and there was a nice breeze, and we sailed gallantly along for about
+two hours, until we reached the town. After anchoring, we transshipped
+ourselves into a small boat, in which we were rowed to some steps, at
+the end of the long rickety mole, where we landed. Some of the planks
+of the pier were missing, leaving great holes, big enough to fall
+through, and others were so loose that when you stepped upon one end
+of them the other flew up almost into your face.
+
+Our first business was to secure the services of a pilot, to take us
+up to Rosario. The best man on the river was sent for; but when he
+came he did not recommend our undertaking the voyage, as the water is
+very low at present, and we might get stuck on a sandbank, and be
+detained for some days, although no further harm would be likely to
+occur to us. We decided, therefore, as our time is precious, to give
+up the idea of making the expedition in the yacht, and to go in the
+ordinary river-boat instead.
+
+Under the guidance of some gentlemen, we then went to the Central
+Railway Station to send off some telegrams, and thence to the River
+Plate Bank. The treasury contains 600,000_l_. in British sovereigns,
+locked up in three strong safes, besides paper-money and securities to
+the amount of 2,000,000_l_. It was the Rosario branch of this bank
+which was recently robbed of 15,000_l_. by an armed government force;
+an unprecedented proceeding in the history of nations, and one that
+might have led to the interference of foreign powers.
+
+There was time afterwards to go round and see something of the city,
+which, like many other South American towns, is built in square
+blocks, all the streets running exactly at right angles one to
+another. There is a fine plaza, or grand square, in which are situated
+the cathedral, theatre, &c., the centre being occupied by a garden,
+containing statues and fountains. The various banks, with their marble
+facings, Corinthian columns, and splendid halls, are magnificent
+buildings, and look more like palaces than places of business. Some of
+the private houses, too, seem very handsome. Outside they are all
+faced with marble, to a certain height from the ground, the interior,
+consisting of courtyard within courtyard, being rather like that of a
+Pompeian house.
+
+We next went to the agricultural show, which, though not an imposing
+affair to our eyes, appeared really very creditable to those who had
+organised it. The horses and cattle looked small, but there were some
+good specimens of sheep--specially the _rombonellis_ and _negrettis_,
+whose long fine wool was, however, only to be discovered by first
+turning aside a thick plaster of mud, beneath which it was concealed.
+We saw also some curious animals, natives of the country, such as
+vicunas, llamas, bizcachas, and various kinds of deer, a very mixed
+lot of poultry and dogs, and two magnificent Persian cats. Another
+department of the show was allotted to the commercial products of the
+country, animal, vegetable, and mineral; the whole forming a very
+interesting collection.
+
+In re-embarking, the disagreeable process of this morning had to be
+repeated--rickety pier, rotten steps, and small boat included--before
+we reached the whale-boat, after which we had an eight miles' sail out
+to the yacht. It was a cold, dull night, and getting on board proved
+rather difficult work, owing to the rough sea.
+
+_Thursday, September 14th_.--The pilot came on board at seven o'clock
+to take us in nearer the shore, but, after all, we found ourselves
+obliged to anchor again five miles off. No ship drawing more than ten
+feet can get inside the sand-banks, which makes it a wretched place to
+lie in, especially as the weather at this time of year is very
+uncertain. You may go ashore from your ship on a fine clear morning,
+and before you return a gale may have sprung up, accompanied by a
+frightful sea. Open boats are therefore quite unsafe, a state of
+things which has given rise to the existence of a class of fine boats,
+specially built for the service, which attend all the ships lying in
+the roads. They are half-decked, will sail in any weather, and can be
+easily managed by two men.
+
+About ten o'clock we went ashore again in the whale-boat, which Tom
+had engaged to wait on us during our stay, and made the best of our
+way to a warehouse to look at some ponchos, which are the speciality
+of this part of South America. Everybody wears one, from the beggar to
+the highest official. The best kind of ponchos are very expensive,
+being made from a particular part of the finest hair of the vicuna,
+hand-woven by women, in the province of Catamarca. The genuine article
+is difficult to get, even here. In the shops the price usually varies
+from 30_l_. to 80_l_.; but we were shown some at a rather lower
+price--from 20_l_. to 60_l_. each. They are soft as silk, perfectly
+waterproof, and will wear, it is said, for ever. We met a fine-looking
+man in one of beautiful quality yesterday. He told us that it
+originally cost 30_l_. in Catamarca, twenty years ago, and that he
+gave 20_l_. for it, second-hand, ten years ago; and, with the
+exception of a few slight tears, it is now as good as ever. Before we
+came here, we were strongly advised, in case we should happen to go on
+a rough expedition up country, not to be tempted to take with us any
+_good_ ponchos, as the Gauchos, or half-bred Indians of the Pampas,
+who are great connoisseurs of these articles, and can distinguish
+their quality at a glance, would not hesitate to cut our throats in
+order to obtain possession of them.
+
+The material of which they are made is of the closest texture, and as
+the hair has never been dressed or dyed it retains all its natural oil
+and original colour, the latter varying from a very pretty yellow fawn
+to a pale cream-colour. The majority of the ponchos worn here are,
+however, made at Manchester, of a cheap and inferior material. They
+look exactly like the real thing at first sight, but are neither so
+light nor so warm, nor do they wear at all well. Occasionally they are
+made of silk, but more often of bright-coloured wool. In shape a
+poncho is simply a square shawl with a hole in the middle for the head
+of the wearer. On horseback the appearance is particularly
+picturesque, and it forms also a convenient cloak, which comes well
+over the saddle, before and behind, and leaves the arms, though
+covered, perfectly free.
+
+The natives, as a rule, wear a second poncho, generally of a different
+colour, tucked into the waistband of their long full linen drawers
+(_calzoncillos_), so as to make a pair of short baggy over-trousers. A
+poor man is content with a shirt, drawers, and two ponchos. A rich man
+has many rows of fringe and frills of lace at the bottom of his
+_calzoncillos_, and wears a short coat, with silver buttons, and a
+gorgeous silver belt, covered with dollars. His horse-fittings and
+massive stirrups (to say nothing of his enormous spurs) will be of
+solid silver, and his arms inlaid with the same metal. He will
+sometimes give as much as from 10_l_. to 20_l_. for a pair of stirrups
+alone, and the rest of his dress and equipment is proportionately
+expensive. The cost of the silver articles is little more than the
+value of the metal itself, which is of very pure quality, and is only
+roughly worked by the Indians or Gauchos. But as Manchester provides
+the ponchos, so does Birmingham the saddlery and fittings, especially
+those in use in the neighbourhood of towns.
+
+After inspecting the ponchos, we breakfasted with some friends, and
+about noon started in the train for Campana. The line passes at first
+through the streets of Buenos Ayres, and thence into the open country,
+beautifully green, and undulating like the waves of the sea. Near the
+town and the suburb of Belgrano are a great many peach-tree
+plantations, the fruit of which is used for fattening pigs while the
+wood serves for roasting them. There is also some scrubby brushwood,
+and a few large native trees; but these are soon left behind, and are
+succeeded by far-spreading rich pasture land, and occasional lagunes.
+
+We saw for the first time the holes of the bizcachas, or prairie-dogs,
+outside which the little prairie-owls keep guard. There appeared to be
+always one, and generally two, of these birds, standing, like
+sentinels, at the entrance to each hole, with their wise-looking heads
+on one side, pictures of prudence and watchfulness. The bird and the
+beast are great friends, and are seldom to be found apart. We also
+passed several enormous flocks of sheep and herds of cattle, most of
+them quite unattended, though some were being driven by men on
+horseback. There were quantities of plovers, and a great many
+partridges, of two kinds, large and small, and the numerous lagunes
+were covered with and surrounded by water-fowl of all kinds--wild
+swans and ducks, snipe, white storks, grey herons, black cormorants,
+and scarlet flamingoes, the last-named standing at the edge of the
+water, catching fish, and occasionally diving below the surface. On
+the very top of some of the telegraph-posts were the nests of the
+oven-bird, looking like carved round blocks of wood, placed there for
+ornament. These nests are made of mud, and are perfectly spherical in
+form, the interior being divided into two quite distinct chambers.
+
+[Illustration: Prairie Dogs and Owls.]
+
+Campana was reached by four o'clock, the train running straight on to
+the pier, alongside of which the two vessels were lying, with steam
+up. Passengers, baggage, and freight were immediately transferred from
+the train to the boats; and we soon found ourselves steaming along in
+the 'Uruguay,' between the willow-hung banks of the broad Parana. The
+country, though otherwise flat and uninteresting, looks very pretty
+just now, in its new spring coat of bright green.
+
+We passed several small towns, amongst others, San Pedro and San
+Nicolas, which are quite important-looking places, with a good deal of
+shipping, and occasionally stopped to pick up passengers, who had come
+in boats and steam-launches from far-distant villages, situated on
+lagunes, which our steamer could not enter.
+
+Just before arriving at each stopping-place, we had a race with the
+'Proveedor,' and whenever she became visible at a bend in the river,
+half a ton more coal was immediately heaped on to our fires by the
+captain's order--a piece of reckless extravagance, for, do what they
+would, they could not make us gain five minutes. The competition is,
+however, very fierce, and I suppose the two companies will not be
+satisfied until they have ruined one another; whereas, if each would
+run a steamer on alternate days, they and the public would be equally
+benefited. The fares are exceedingly reasonable, being less than 3_l_.
+for the whole journey from Buenos Ayres to Rosario, including all
+charges.
+
+_Friday, September 15th_.--A violent storm of thunder and lightning,
+apparently just above our heads, woke us at six o'clock this morning.
+Torrents of rain followed, and continued to fall until we dropped our
+anchor at Rosario, at 8.45 a.m., just as we were in the middle of
+breakfast, in our cozy little stern cabin. Half an hour later we
+landed, though the rain still came down in sheets, but the steamer was
+now alongside the pier, and close carriages had been provided. A few
+minutes' drive through ill-paved streets brought us to the Hotel
+Universel, a handsome, spacious building, with marble courtyards, full
+of trees, plants, and flowers, into which all the sitting-rooms open.
+Above are galleries, round which the various bed-rooms are in like
+manner ranged. It all looked nice and cool, and suitable for hot
+weather, but it was certainly rather draughty and cheerless on such a
+cold, pouring wet day, and all our efforts to make our large room, in
+which there were four immense windows, at all comfortable, were vain.
+
+Rosario, like Buenos Ayres, is built in squares. The streets are
+generally well paved with black and white marble, but the roadways are
+composed of little round stones, and are full of holes and
+inequalities, so that, in crossing the road after heavy rain, one
+steps from the _trottoir_ into a very slough of despond. The universal
+tramway runs down the centre of every street.
+
+After luncheon we made a fresh start for Carcarana by a special train,
+to which were attached two goods-vans, full of horses, and a carriage
+truck, containing a most comfortable American carriage, in shape not
+unlike a Victoria, only much lighter and with very high wheels. After
+a short journey through a rich, flat, grass country, we arrived at
+Roldan, the first colony of the Central Argentine Land Company. Here
+we all alighted, the horses were taken out of the vans, saddled,
+bridled, and harnessed, and the gentlemen rode and I drove round the
+colony, along what are generally roads, but to-day were sheets of
+water. We saw many colonists, of every grade, from those still
+occupying the one-roomed wooden cottages, originally supplied by the
+Land Company, standing in the midst of ill-cultivated fields, to those
+who had built for themselves good houses in the town, or nice
+cottages, with pretty gardens, surrounded by well-tilled lands.
+
+The drive ended at the mill belonging to a retired officer of the
+British army, who has settled here with his wife and two dear little
+children. Here we had tea and a pleasant chat, and then returned to
+the train and proceeded to Carcarana, the next station on the line.
+Now, however, instead of the rich pasture lands and flourishing crops
+which we had hitherto seen on all sides, our road lay through a
+desolate-looking district, bearing too evident signs of the
+destructive power of the locust. People travelling with us tell us
+that, less than a week ago, the pasture here was as fresh and green as
+could be desired, and the various crops were a foot high; but that, in
+the short space of a few hours, the care and industry of the last ten
+months were rendered utterly vain and useless, and the poor colonists
+found their verdant fields converted into a barren waste by these
+rapacious insects.
+
+Carcarana may be called the Richmond--one might almost say the
+Brighton--of Rosario. It stands on a river, the Carcaranal, to the
+banks of which an omnibus runs twice a day from the railway-station,
+during the season, to take people to bathe. Near the station is also
+an excellent little hotel, containing a large dining-room and a few
+bed-rooms, kept by two Frenchwomen; and here the Rosarians come out
+by train to dine and enjoy the fresh air. It was quite dark by the
+time we arrived, so that we could not see much of the flourishing
+little colony which has been formed here. We therefore paddled across
+the wet road to the inn, where, despite the somewhat rough
+surroundings, we enjoyed a capital dinner, cooked in the true French
+style. They are specially celebrated here for their asparagus, but the
+locusts had devoured all but a very few stalks, besides which they
+were held responsible, on the present occasion, for the absence of
+other vegetables and salad. Yesterday there was a grand wedding-party
+near here, the complete success of which was, we were told, somewhat
+marred by the fact, that for six hours, in the very middle of the day,
+it became absolutely necessary to light candles, owing to the dense
+clouds of locusts, about a league in extent, by which the air was
+darkened. Trains are even stopped by these insects occasionally; for
+they appear to like a hard road, and when they get on the line their
+bodies make the rails so greasy that the wheels of the engines will
+not bite. Moreover, they completely obscure the lights and signals, so
+that the men are afraid to proceed. The only remedy, therefore, is to
+go very slowly, preceded by a truck-load of sand, which is scattered
+freely over the rails in front of the engine. Horses will not always
+face a cloud of locusts, even to get to their stables, but turn round
+and stand doggedly still, until it has passed.
+
+After dinner we once more stepped into our special train, in which we
+arrived at Rosario at about half-past nine o'clock, thoroughly tired
+out.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+LIFE ON THE PAMPAS.
+
+    _There's tempest in yon horned moon,_
+    _And lightning in yon cloud;_
+    _But hark the music, mariners!_
+    _The wind is piping loud._
+
+
+_Saturday, September 16th_.--Waking at half-past five, we busied
+ourselves until nine o'clock, when we again started in a special train
+for Carcarana. After a short stop at Roldan, it was reached two hours
+later, and breakfast was followed by a long ride through the Land
+Company's colony, and from thence to Candelaria, a purely Spanish
+settlement.
+
+I freely confess that I had hardly believed all the stories they told
+me last night about the terrible doings of the locusts, and thought
+they must have been slightly exaggerated. It all seemed too dreadful
+to be true--as if one of the plagues of Egypt had been revived by the
+wand of an evil magician. In this somewhat incredulous mood I rashly
+said that, although I was very sorry to hear of the visit of these
+destructive creatures, as they _were_ unfortunately here, I should
+like to see them. My wish was shortly to be gratified; for, in the
+course of our ride, we saw in the distant sky what looked very much
+like a heavy purple thunder-cloud, but which the experienced
+pronounced to be a swarm of locusts. It seemed impossible; but as we
+proceeded they met us, first singly, and then in gradually increasing
+numbers, until each step became positively painful, owing to the smart
+blows we received from them on our heads, faces, and hands. We
+stopped for a time at Mr. Holt's large estancia, where,
+notwithstanding the general appearance of prosperity, the traces of
+the ravages of the locusts were only too visible. On remounting, to
+proceed on our journey, we found that the cloud had approached much
+nearer, the effect produced by its varying position being most
+extraordinary. As the locusts passed between us and the sun they
+completely obscured the light; a little later, with the sun's rays
+shining directly on their wings, they looked like a golden cloud, such
+as one sometimes sees in the transformation scene of a pantomime; and,
+at a greater distance, when viewed from the top of a slight eminence,
+they looked like a snow-storm, or a field of snow-white marguerites,
+which had suddenly taken to themselves wings. When on the ground, with
+their wings closed, they formed a close mass of little brown specks,
+completely hiding the ground and crops, both grass and grain. In
+riding over them, though not a quarter of their number could rise, for
+want of space in which to spread their wings, they formed such a dense
+cloud that we could see nothing else, and the horses strongly objected
+to face them. They got into one's hair and clothes, and gave one the
+creeps all over. I am sure I shall often dream of them for some time
+to come, and I have quite made up my mind that I never wish to see
+another locust as long as I live. I have, however, secured some fine
+specimens for any one who is curious about them.
+
+The land we passed through appeared to be well farmed. We spoke to
+several of the colonists, especially to one Italian family, living in
+a little mud rancho with a tile roof. They were all gathered together
+to witness the dying agonies of one of their best cows, perishing from
+the effects of the drought. The rest of the animals in the corral
+looked, I am sorry to say, thin and miserable, and as if they intended
+soon to follow their companion's example. The poor people,
+nevertheless, seemed very cheery and contented, and hospitably gave
+us each a drink of some remarkably muddy water.
+
+After a thirty-mile ride under a hot sun, fortunately on the easiest
+of horses, we were none of us sorry to stop for a short time at
+Carcarana, and obtain some refreshment, before proceeding--horses,
+carriage, and all--by train to Rosario, another colony on the line.
+Arrived at the latter place, I thought I had had enough riding for the
+first day, and therefore visited the various farms and houses in the
+carriage, the rest of the party going, as before, on horseback. After
+a round of about fifteen miles, we returned to the station, where we
+were kindly received by the sister of the station-master. An excellent
+dinner was provided for us in the refreshment-room, before we entered
+our special train, and Rosario was reached at about ten o'clock.
+
+_Sunday, September 17th_.--A kind friend sent his carriage to take us
+to the English church, a brick building, built to replace the small
+iron church that existed here previously, and only opened last month.
+The service was well performed, and the singing of the choir
+excellent. We paid a visit to the Sunday schools after luncheon, and
+then drove to the quinta of Baron Alvear. The road lies through the
+town, past the race-course, crowded with Gauchos, getting up scratch
+races amongst themselves, and on, over undulating plains and
+water-courses, into the open country. Sometimes there was a track,
+sometimes none. In some places the pastures were luxuriantly green; in
+others the ground was carpeted with white, lilac, and scarlet verbena,
+just coming into bloom--for it is still early spring here. Here and
+there came a bare patch, completely cleared by the locusts, who had
+also stripped many of the fine timber trees in the garden of the
+quinta. On the gate-posts, at the entrance, were the nests of two
+oven-birds, like those we had already seen on the telegraph-posts, so
+exactly spherical as to look like ornaments. In one of the shrubberies
+a fine jaguar was shut up in a cage, who looked very like a tiger.
+Though he had evidently just had his dinner, he was watching with
+greedy interest the proceedings of some natives in charge of a
+horse--an animal which he esteems a great delicacy, when procurable.
+
+On our way across the camp we saw a great quantity of the seeds of the
+Martynia proboscidea, mouse-burrs as they call them,--devil's claws or
+toe-nails: they are curious-looking things, as the annexed woodcut
+will show.
+
+[Illustration: Devils Horns]
+
+Frank Buckland has a theory--and very likely a correct one--that they
+are created in this peculiar form for the express purpose of attaching
+themselves to the long tails of the wild horses that roam about the
+country in troops of hundreds. They carry them thousands of miles, and
+disseminate the seed wherever they go at large in search of food and
+water.
+
+When we returned to Rosario we noticed a great crowd still on the
+race-course, and were just in time to see the finish of one race,
+ridden barebacked, and for a very short distance. All the races are
+short; and as the natives are always engaging in these little contests
+of speed, the horses get into the habit of extending themselves
+directly you put them out of a walk. But the least touch is sufficient
+to stop them immediately, and I never saw horses better broken than
+they are here. The most fearful bits are used for the purpose; but
+when once this is accomplished, the mere inclination of the body, or
+the slightest pressure of the finger upon the bridle, is sufficient to
+guide them. They will maintain, for almost any length of time, a quick
+canter--what they call here 'a little gallop'--at the rate of three
+leagues (ten miles) an hour, without showing the slightest sign of
+fatigue. They don't like being mounted, and always fidget a little
+then, but are quite quiet directly you are in the saddle. I rode
+several horses which had never carried a lady before; but after the
+first few minutes they did not seem to mind the riding-habit in the
+least. They evidently dislike standing still, unless you dismount and
+throw the rein on the ground, when they will remain stationary for
+hours.
+
+_Monday, September 18th_.--The early part of this morning was spent in
+much the same way as on Saturday, Tom going as before to the Land
+Company's Office, whilst I remained at home to write.
+
+At nine o'clock we proceeded to the station, and started in our
+comfortable railway carriage for Tortugas. We formed quite a large
+party altogether, and the journey over the now familiar line, past
+Roldan, Carcarana, and Canada de Gomez, was a very pleasant one. At
+Tortugas we left the train, and paid a visit to one of the overseers
+of the colony and his cheery little French wife, who, we found, had
+been expecting us all day on Saturday. A few weeks ago this lady's
+sister was carried off by Indians, with some other women and children.
+After riding many leagues, she seized her opportunity, pushed the
+Indian who was carrying her off his horse, turned the animal's head
+round, and galloped back across the plain, hotly pursued, until within
+a mile or two of the colony, by the rest of the band. It was a plucky
+thing for a little bit of a woman to attempt with a great powerful
+savage, and she is deservedly looked upon in the village as quite a
+heroine.
+
+The journey between Rosario and Cordova occupies twelve hours by the
+ordinary train; and as Frayle Muerto is exactly half-way between the
+two places, the trains going in either direction commence their
+journey at the same hours (6 a.m. and 6 p.m.), by which means the
+passengers meet each other here in time to breakfast and dine
+together. There is a fine bridge over the river near Frayle Muerto,
+but the place is principally celebrated as having been the site of the
+Henleyite colony, which caused disappointment to so many young men of
+family, who were induced to come out here from England and to go up
+country, with no other result than the loss of all their money. The
+scheme was supposed to be perfect in all its details, but proved upon
+a closer acquaintance to be utterly worthless. The iron church at
+Rosario is still standing, which the members of the expedition took up
+there, and we have also met some of the young men themselves at
+various times.
+
+The train did not reach Cordova until 7.30 p.m., and it was therefore
+too late for us to see much of the approach to the city, but to-morrow
+we intend to do a good deal in that way. In the middle of the night we
+were aroused by a violent thunderstorm. The lightning was most vivid,
+and illuminated our room with many colours. The rain fell heavily,
+flooding everything, and making the streets look like rivers, and the
+courtyard of the hotel like a lake. It is one of the oldest, and, at
+the same time, one of the most unhealthy, of the cities of South
+America, for it is built in the hollow of the surrounding hills, where
+no refreshing breezes can penetrate.
+
+Travelling in Brazil is like passing through a vast hothouse, filled
+with gorgeous tropical vegetation and forms of insect life. In the
+neighbourhood of Monte Video you might imagine yourself in a perpetual
+greenhouse. Here it is like being in a vast garden, in which the
+greenest of turf, the brightest of bedding-out plants, and the most
+fragrant flowering shrubs abound. Each country, therefore, possesses
+its own particular beauty, equally attractive in its way.
+
+Shortly after leaving Cordova we passed through an Indian village;
+but, except at this point, we did not meet many natives during our
+ride. One poor woman, however, whom we did unfortunately encounter,
+had a fall from her horse, owing to the animal being frightened at the
+umbrella I carried, yet my own horse had, after a very brief
+objection, quietly submitted to the introduction of this novelty into
+the equipment of his rider.
+
+[Illustration: La Calera.]
+
+We found that the hotel on the Caldera for which we were bound was
+shut up; but one of the party had the keys, and an excellent lunch
+quickly made its appearance. The view from the verandah, over the
+river, to the Sierras beyond, was very fine. It had become quite hot
+by this time, and I was much interested in seeing all our horses taken
+down to the water to bathe. They appeared to be perfectly familiar
+with the process; and, the river being shallow, they picked out all
+the nice holes between the boulders, where they could lie down and be
+completely covered by the water. Just as we were starting to return,
+black clouds gathered from all around; the lightning flashed, the
+thunder muttered, and big drops began to fall. But the storm was not
+of long duration, and we escaped the worst part of it, though we had
+ample evidence of its severity during our homeward ride, in the
+slippery ground, the washed-away paths, and the swollen ditches. We
+stopped half-way to see the drowning out of some poor little bizcachas
+from their holes. The water had been turned into their dwellings by
+means of trenches, and as the occupants endeavoured to make their
+escape at the other end they were pounced upon by men and dogs; the
+prairie-owls meanwhile hovering disconsolately overhead. Two of the
+gentlemen of our party each managed to purchase a living bizcacha,
+which was then wrapped up in a handkerchief and conveyed home. When
+young they are pretty little creatures, and are easily tamed.
+
+It was late when we reached Cordova; but I was anxious to visit the
+Observatory before our departure, as it is one of the best, though not
+by any means the largest, in the world. Professor Gould, the
+astronomer, is away just at present, but we were kindly received by
+Mrs. Gould, who conducted us over the building. They have a fine
+collection of various instruments and some wonderful photographs of
+the principal stars--Saturn, with his ring and eight moons, Jupiter,
+with his four moons, Venus, Mercury, &c. If we could have stayed
+longer we might have seen much more; but it was now quite dark, and we
+had only just time for a short visit to the observing room itself. Our
+ride down to the city in the dark would have been exceedingly risky if
+our horses had been less sure-footed, for the roads had been washed
+away in many places, but we reached the bottom of the Observatory hill
+in safety, and shortly afterwards arrived at the hotel just in time
+for dinner.
+
+After dinner we drove to the station, where we found all our own party
+assembled, and many more people, who had come to see us off. I was
+given the Chilian bit used for the horse I rode to-day, as a
+remembrance of my visit. It is a most formidable-looking instrument
+of torture, and one which I am sure my dear little steed did not in
+the least require; but I suppose the fact of having once felt it, when
+being broken in, is sufficient for a lifetime, for the horses here
+have certainly the very lightest mouths I ever met with. A gift of a
+young puma, or small lion, was also waiting for me. It is about four
+months old, and very tame; but, considering the children, I think it
+will be more prudent to pass it on to the Zoo, in London.
+
+The train started at 8.30 p.m. and took an hour to reach Rio Segundo,
+where we found tea and coffee prepared. After that we proceeded to
+make our arrangements for the night; some of the gentlemen sleeping in
+the saloon-carriages, and some on beds made up in the luggage-van. Tom
+and I turned into our two cozy little berths, and knew nothing more
+until we were called at 4.30 a.m. at Canada de Gomez. The lamp had
+gone out, and we found it rather difficult work dressing and packing
+in the cold and dark; but it was soon done, and a cup of hot coffee in
+the refreshment-room afterwards made us feel quite comfortable.
+
+Then we all separated: Captain Dunlop to join his ship; Tom to
+complete his report on the colonies of the Central Argentine Land
+Company, which he is preparing in compliance with the request of the
+Directors in London; while the rest of the party awaited the arrival
+of the waggonette which was to take us to the estancia of Las Rosas.
+
+_Wednesday, September 20th_.--At 6.30 a.m. the waggonette arrived, a
+light but strong, unpainted vehicle, drawn by a pair of active little
+well-bred horses, both of whom had been raced in their day. There were
+but a few leagues of cultivated ground to be passed before we reached
+the broad, undulating, solitary Pampas, where for some time the only
+visible signs of life were to be found in the Teru-tero birds (a sort
+of plover), who shrieked discordantly as we disturbed their repose;
+the partridges, large and small, put up by the retriever who
+accompanied us; some prairie fowls; a great many hawks, of all sizes;
+and the pretty little wydah-birds, with their two immense tail
+feathers, four times the length of their bodies. The first glimpse of
+the far-spreading prairie was most striking in all its variations of
+colour. The true shade of the Pampas grass, when long, is a light
+dusty green; when short it is a bright fresh green. But it frequently
+happens that, owing to the numerous prairie-fires, either accidental
+or intentional, nothing is to be seen but a vast expanse of black
+charred ground, here and there relieved by a few patches of vivid
+green, where the grass is once more springing up under the influence
+of the rain.
+
+The road, or rather track, was in a bad condition, owing to the recent
+wet weather, and on each side of the five _canadas_, or small rivers,
+which we had to ford, there were deep morasses, through which we had
+to struggle as best we could, with the mud up to our axletrees. Just
+before arriving at the point where the stream had to be crossed, the
+horses were well flogged and urged on at a gallop, which they
+gallantly maintained until the other side was reached. Then we stopped
+to breathe the horses and to repair damages, generally finding that a
+trace had given way, or that some other part of the harness had shown
+signs of weakness. On one occasion we were delayed for a considerable
+time by the breaking of the splinter-bar, to repair which was a
+troublesome matter; indeed, I don't know how we should have managed it
+if we had not met a native lad, who sold us his long lasso to bind the
+pieces together again. It was a lucky _rencontre_ for us, as he was
+the only human being we saw during the whole of our drive of thirty
+miles, except the peon who brought us a change of horses, half-way.
+
+In the course of the journey we passed a large estancia, the road to
+which was marked by the dead bodies and skeletons of the poor beasts
+who had perished in the late droughts. Hundreds of them were lying
+about in every stage of decay, those more recently dead being
+surrounded by vultures and other carrion-birds. The next _canada_ that
+we crossed was choked up with the carcases of the unfortunate
+creatures who had struggled thus far for a last drink, and had then
+not had sufficient strength left to extricate themselves from the
+water. Herds of miserable-looking, half-starved cattle were also to be
+seen, the cows very little larger than their calves, and all
+apparently covered with the same rough shaggy coats. The pasture is
+not fine enough in this part of the country to carry sheep, but deer
+are frequently met with.
+
+A little later we again began to approach cultivated land, and a mile
+or two further brought us to a broad road, with high palings on either
+side, down which we drove, and through the yard, to the door of the
+estancia. The house is a one-story building, one room wide, with a
+verandah in front and at the back, one side of which faces the yard,
+the other a well-kept garden, full of violets and other spring
+flowers, and roses just coming into bloom. There are several smaller
+detached buildings, in which the sleeping apartments are situated, and
+which are also provided with verandahs and barred windows. Having
+visited the various rooms, in company with our hosts, we sat down to a
+rough but substantial breakfast, to which full justice was done.
+Travelling all night, and a ride of thirty miles in the fresh morning
+air, have a tendency to produce a keen appetite; and the present
+occasion proved no exception to that rule.
+
+After breakfast I rested and wrote some letters, while the gentlemen
+inspected the farm and stud. The proprietor of this estancia has the
+best horses in this part of the country, and has taken great pains to
+improve their breed, as well as that of the cattle and sheep, by
+importing thorough-breds from England. Unlike the Arabs, neither
+natives nor settlers here think of riding mares, and it is considered
+quite a disgrace to do so. They are therefore either allowed to run
+wild in troops, or are used to trample out corn or to make mud for
+bricks. They are also frequently killed and boiled down, for the sake
+of their hides and tallow, the value of which does not amount to more
+than about 10_s_. per head. Large herds of them are met with at this
+time of the year on the Pampas, attended by a few horses, and
+accompanied by their foals.
+
+The natives of these parts pass their lives in the saddle. Horses are
+used for almost every conceivable employment, from hunting and fishing
+to brick-making and butter-churning. Even the very beggars ride about
+on horseback. I have seen a photograph of one, with a police
+certificate of mendicancy hanging round his neck, taken from life for
+Sir Woodbine Parish. Every domestic servant has his or her own horse,
+as a matter of course; and the maids are all provided with habits, in
+which they ride about on Sundays, from one estancia to another, to pay
+visits. In fishing, the horse is ridden into the water as far as he
+can go, and the net or rod is then made use of by his rider. At Buenos
+Ayres I have seen the poor animals all but swimming to the shore, with
+heavy carts and loads, from the ships anchored in the inner roads; for
+the water is so shallow that only very small boats can go alongside
+the vessels, and the cargo is therefore transferred directly to the
+carts to save the trouble and expense of transshipment. In
+out-of-the-way places, on the Pampas, where no churns exist, butter is
+made by putting milk into a goat-skin bag, attached by a long lasso to
+the saddle of a peon, who is then set to gallop a certain number of
+miles, with the bag bumping and jumping along the ground after him.
+
+About four o'clock the horses--much larger and better bred animals
+than those we have been riding lately--were brought round from the
+corral. Mine was a beauty; easy, gentle, and fast. We first took a
+canter round the cultivated ground, about 300 acres in extent, and in
+capital condition. Lucerne grows here splendidly, and can be cut seven
+times a year. As we left the yard, Mr. Nield's man asked if he would
+take the dogs. He replied in the negative; but I suppose he must have
+referred to the greyhounds only, for we were certainly accompanied on
+the present occasion by _eleven_ dogs of various sorts and sizes,
+those left behind being shut up and kept without food, in anticipation
+of the stag-hunt to-morrow. We rode over the race-course, where the
+horses are trained, and on to the partridge ground. The larger kind of
+these birds are extremely stupid, and are easily ridden down by a
+horseman, or caught in a noose. They rise three times, and after the
+third flight they are so exhausted and terrified that it is easy to
+dismount and catch them with the hand, as they lie panting on the long
+grass. Partridge-hunting is considered good sport. It is necessary to
+keep your eye constantly fixed upon the bird, and to watch where he
+settles, and then to gallop to the spot as hard as possible, leaving
+your horse to look after himself amid the long grass; and this
+manoeuvre has to be repeated until at last the unfortunate bird is
+overtaken and caught.
+
+As we were riding along, the dogs found and killed a bizcacha, in a
+bank. Just as Mr. Elliott had pulled it out, and had laid it, dead, in
+the field, its little companion owl arrived, and appeared to be in the
+most dreadful state of mind. It shrieked and cried, as it hovered over
+us, and finally selected a small white fox terrier, who, I think,
+really had been principally concerned in the death, as the object of
+its vengeance, pouncing down upon his head, and giving him two or
+three good pecks, at the same time flapping its wings violently. The
+other dogs drove it off; but more than half an hour afterwards, while
+we were looking at some horses, nearly a mile from the spot, the
+plucky little owl returned to the charge, and again swooped down upon
+the same dog, with a dismal cry, and administered a vigorous peck to
+him. Altogether it was a striking and interesting proof of the
+attachment existing between these curious birds and beasts; the object
+of the owl in the present instance clearly being to revenge if
+possible the death of its friend.
+
+On our return to the farm, we went all round the place, and found that
+everything was being made secure for the night; after which we watched
+all the servants come in one by one for their daily ration of grog,
+and then retired to dress for dinner, shortly after which, being
+thoroughly tired out, I retired to my bed-room, attended by a very
+kind old Irishwoman, who had been deputed to look after me. My mind
+was at first somewhat disturbed by the discovery of one or two
+enormous toads and long-armed spiders in my apartment; but they
+fortunately did not interfere with my repose, for I slept like a top.
+All the rooms being on the ground-floor, it is almost impossible
+entirely to exclude intruders of this description. I admired very much
+what I took to be two fine ponchos, of a delicate fawn-colour, used as
+tablecloths, but upon a closer examination I found that they were made
+of the finest silk, and learned afterwards that they were imported
+from England. I don't know why the same material should not be
+employed for a similar purpose at home; but I believe that those
+manufactured hitherto have been designed expressly for the South
+American market, to which they are exported in considerable
+quantities.
+
+_Thursday, September 21st_.--At five o'clock, when I awoke, it was so
+misty that I could only see about half-way across the yard. By six,
+the hour at which we were to have started on our hunting expedition,
+matters had improved a little; but it was still considered unsafe to
+venture out, for fear of being lost on the vast plains which
+surrounded us. An hour later, however, it was reported that the fog
+was clearing off, and a little before eight o'clock we started.
+Horses, riders, and dogs, all appeared to be in the highest spirits,
+the former jumping and frisking about, hardly deigning to touch the
+ground, the latter tearing after one another and barking at every
+stray bird they met. The pack numbered seventeen, and could hardly be
+called a level lot of hounds, comprising, as it did, two deerhounds,
+five well-bred greyhounds, two retrievers, one setter, one spaniel,
+one French poodle, two fox terriers, one black and tan terrier, and
+two animals of an utterly indescribable breed; but they all did their
+work well, as the event proved. Even the shaggy fat old French poodle
+arrived in each case before the deer was cut up.
+
+Two deer were soon descried in the distance, and we cantered steadily
+towards them at the rate of about ten miles an hour, until the dogs
+winded and sighted them. Then, directly the first short yelp was
+heard, every horse extended himself in an instant, galloping away as
+hard as he could go, almost literally _ventre a terre_. They were
+nearly all thoroughbreds, and had been raced, so that the speed was
+something delightful. But it only lasted ten minutes, at the end of
+which time the dogs ran into one of the deer, and thus put a temporary
+stop to our enjoyment. He proved to be a fine buck, and was soon
+killed. His legs were cut off for trophies, but, his horns being like
+velvet, the head was not worth having. Some of the dogs pursued the
+doe, but failed to pull her down, and returned half an hour later
+fatigued and panting.
+
+It had become hot by this time, so we rode to the nearest water, to
+enable the animals to drink and bathe, and then started afresh at a
+sharp canter. There were plenty of bizcacha holes and boggy places to
+be avoided; but we allowed the horses to take care of themselves and
+us in this respect, and occupied ourselves almost exclusively in
+looking for fresh deer. For some time we found nothing; then two
+sprang out of the long grass close to the _canada_, which they
+crossed, and, on reaching the other side, started off in different
+directions. The pack pursued and divided, some going after each
+animal. I, and two others of the party, followed the doe, and after
+another short burst of ten minutes, at a tremendous pace, we ran into
+and killed her. As soon as she had been despatched, we wanted to
+follow the buck, in pursuit of which the rest of the riders had gone,
+but there was now nothing to be seen of him or them. Flat as the
+country looked, the slight undulations of the ground quite hid them
+from our view. After riding about for two hours in various directions,
+looking and listening most patiently, we abandoned the search in
+despair, and returned to the house, where we found that our friends
+had already arrived. They had enjoyed the best run they have had for
+many months--seven miles, from point to point--but the dogs had lain
+down, dead beat, at the end of the first six miles. The horsemen had
+galloped on, their animals tailing off one by one, until only two
+remained in it at all. Having mutually agreed to let the stag live
+till another day to afford perhaps as good a run and as much pleasure
+to some one else, they thereupon also abandoned the chase, and turned
+their horses' heads homewards.
+
+After a change of dress, we proceeded to pack up, preparatory to our
+departure, and then had breakfast, after which we bade adieu to our
+kind hosts, and started in the waggonette to retrace our steps to the
+station. It was very bright and hot, and the sun and wind had already
+begun to have a visible effect upon the vegetation of the Pampas. The
+streams were much more passable, and we reached Canada de Gomez at
+about half-past five, in a shorter time, than it had taken us to
+perform the outward journey yesterday. On reaching Rosario at about
+ten o'clock, we found several friends waiting to receive us, with
+invitations to tea; but we felt too tired in body and too disreputable
+in appearance to accept them, and preferred going straight to our
+hotel and to bed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+MORE ABOUT THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.
+
+    _The twilight is sad and cloudy,_
+    _The wind blows wild and free,_
+    _And like the wings of sea-birds_
+    _Flash the white caps of the sea._
+
+
+_Friday, September 22nd_.--Mr. Fisher called for me at 8 a.m., to
+drive me in his little carriage to the railway yard and workshops, and
+then to pay some farewell visits. We also went to see the market, and
+to get some photographs of Rosario; after which, breakfast,
+packing-up, and paying the bill occupied our time until one o'clock,
+when we started for the steamer, to return to Buenos Ayres. On our
+arrival alongside the 'Proveedor,' I found that nearly all our Rosario
+friends had come down to the landing-place to see us off, and had
+brought all manner of remembrances for me and the children. Flowers in
+profusion; a tame cardinal bird for Muriel; a pair of dear little
+long-tailed green paroquets; the skin of a seal, shot at the
+Alexandria colony; a beautiful poncho; an Argentine bit, whip, and
+stirrups; a carpincha skin; two pretty little muletas--a sort of
+armadillo, very tame, and often kept in the houses here as a pet; and
+several other presents, all of which, when I look at them at home,
+will serve to remind me of the kind donors, and of the happy days
+spent in the Argentine Republic.
+
+It was not long before we were off, and steaming slowly astern of the
+'Uruguay.' This boat is not so large nor so fast as the 'Uruguay,'
+though the difference in speed does not probably amount to more than
+fifteen minutes in the twenty-four hours. Her saloon and deck are not
+so good, but her sleeping-cabins are much larger and more comfortable.
+The Italian captains are equally agreeable on both steamers, the
+civility is the same, and the fares and food are precisely similar, so
+that there is not much left to influence one in the choice of vessels.
+We had a pleasant party at an excellent dinner in the evening, the
+captain only regretting that we had not been on board two days ago,
+when Mlle. P. and the opera company went down from Rosario to Buenos
+Ayres. They had a very cheery evening, and some good music, which Tom
+told us afterwards he thoroughly enjoyed. There were no musicians on
+board to-night, and not any temptation to sit up late, which was
+perhaps as well; one of the reasons for our going back this way being
+that we wished to have an opportunity of seeing the River Tigre, which
+we should reach in the early morning. On the upward journey we had, to
+save time, embarked at Campana, which is situated above that river.
+
+_Saturday, September 23rd_.--At 4.30 a.m. the captain called me, being
+anxious that I should not miss any of the beauties of the Tigre. On my
+arrival on deck he kindly had a chair placed for me right in the bows,
+provided me with rugs and wraps, and sent for some hot coffee, which
+was particularly acceptable, as the morning air was fresh and chilly.
+The sky was flushed with rosy clouds, the forerunners of one of the
+most beautiful sunrises imaginable. The river itself is narrow and
+monotonous, the branches of the willow-tree on either bank almost
+sweeping the sides of the steamer. The centre channel is fairly deep;
+but we managed to run aground once, though we only drew nine feet, and
+in turning a sharp corner it was necessary to send a boat ashore with
+a rope, to pull the vessel's head round.
+
+At half-past six we reached the port of Tigre, where we found many
+fine ships waiting for the tide, to go up the river. Some delay
+occurred while the passengers' luggage was being examined; but in
+about half an hour we were able to land and walk to the
+railway-station, through an avenue of shady trees, round the trunks of
+which the wistaria, now in full bloom, was climbing, and past several
+houses, whose pretty gardens were ablaze with all sorts of flowers. At
+the station I found a letter from Tom, telling me we were expected to
+breakfast at a quinta, not far from Buenos Ayres.
+
+For about an hour and a half the line ran through a rich and fertile
+country, quite the garden of Buenos Ayres, until we arrived at the
+station where we were to alight. Here Mr. Coghlan met us and drove us
+to his house, which is charmingly situated in the midst of a grove of
+olive-trees, formerly surrounding the palace of the viceroys. After
+breakfast the gardener cut us a fine bouquet of roses and violets, and
+we walked to the tramway, and were conveyed by one of the cars,
+smoothly and quickly, to the city. The contrast between this mode of
+travelling and riding in an ordinary carriage through the ill-paved
+streets is very striking. It is really less fatiguing to walk than to
+adopt the latter mode of conveyance, and I believe that, but for the
+look of the thing, most people would prefer to do so. How the vehicles
+themselves stand the jolting I cannot imagine, for they are all large
+and handsome, and must suffer tremendous strains.
+
+At noon we went with Mr. Coghlan to see the market and the museum, and
+to do some shopping. The market is a large open building, well
+supplied with everything at moderate prices; meat, game, fruit,
+vegetables, and flowers being especially cheap and good. House-rent
+and fine clothes--what Muriel would call 'dandy things'--are very dear
+in Buenos Ayres, but all the necessaries of life are certainly cheap.
+People of the middle and lower classes live much better here than they
+do at home, and the development of bone and muscle in large families
+of small children, owing to the constant use of so much meat and
+strong soup, is very remarkable. When once they have attained the age
+at which they can run about, children get on very well; but the
+climate, and the difficulty of obtaining a proper supply of milk in
+hot weather, often prove fatal to infants. It is very difficult to get
+good servants here, as they can easily obtain much higher pay in other
+capacities, and are very soon enabled to set up in business for
+themselves. Returning to the hotel, we collected our parcels and had
+some luncheon, and then proceeded to the pier, where we found the
+children waiting for us to embark in the gig, and we soon arrived
+safely on board the 'Sunbeam.'
+
+At about half-past six, Tom and Mabelle returned from their expedition
+to the largest and most comfortable estancia in the country, where
+they were received most hospitably, and enjoyed themselves very much.
+
+After dinner, some of our party left in the whale-boat, being anxious
+to be present at Madame Almazilia's benefit performance at the opera,
+for which I fear they arrived too late after all. Whilst we were
+waiting at the railway-station to-day, some of the bouquets, which
+were to be presented at the theatre to-night, arrived by train. The
+flowers were arranged in all manner of strange shapes and
+devices--full-sized tables and chairs, music-stands, and musical
+instruments, and many other quaint conceits, composed entirely of grey
+Neapolitan violets, marked out with camellias and other coloured
+flowers.
+
+_Sunday, September 24th_.--Most of us went ashore in the whale-boat at
+ten o'clock, to attend the English church, reopened to-day for the
+first time for some months. After our own service we met many friends,
+and walked to the Roman Catholic cathedral. The streets were full of
+well-appointed carriages, and in the interior of the building we found
+a great many well-dressed ladies, and a few men. Mass had not
+commenced, and a constant stream of worshippers was still entering;
+but we remained only for a short time, and then returned to the Mole.
+By this time the wind had freshened considerably, and several of our
+friends tried to persuade us to remain on shore; but as we knew Tom
+was expecting us, and we wanted to get the things we required for our
+next journey, we thought it better to go off.
+
+It took us two hours and a half, beating against the wind, to reach
+the yacht, sea-sick, and drenched to the skin. Directly we got outside
+the bar the sea was very bad, and each wave broke more or less over
+the little half-deck, under which the children had been packed away
+for shelter. Seeing how rough it was out at the anchorage--far worse
+than near the shore--Tom had quite given us up, for it was now
+half-past three, and was preparing to come ashore, bringing our things
+with him. On board the yacht we found an unfortunate French maid, and
+another servant, who had come off early in the morning to spend the
+day and have dinner with our people, but who were now lying prostrate
+and ill in the cabin.
+
+Champagne and luncheon revived us a little, and Tom hurried us off to
+get ashore again by daylight, before the weather became worse. It was
+a very pleasant twenty minutes' sail to the shore, racing along before
+the wind, with two reefs in the mainsail--quite a different thing from
+beating out. The tide was high, and the captain therefore steered for
+the pier, where he hoped to land us. Unfortunately, however, he missed
+it; and as it was impossible to make another tack out, all that could
+be done was to let go the anchor to save running ashore, and wait
+until they sent out a small boat to fetch us. This took some little
+time during which we pitched and tossed about in a very disagreeable
+fashion. When the boat did at last arrive she turned out to be a
+wretched little skiff, rowed by two men, with very indifferent oars,
+and only capable of taking three passengers at a time. Tom went first,
+taking with him the two children, and the two poor sea-sick maids, and
+the boat at once put off for the land, Tom steering. It was terrible
+to watch them from the whale-boat, and when one tremendous sea came,
+and the skiff broached to, I thought for a moment that all was over,
+as did every one who was watching our proceedings from the pier. I
+could not look any more, till I heard shouts that they were safe
+ashore. Then came our turn. The boat returned for us, this time
+provided with better oars, and we were soon landed in safety, if not
+in comfort; and a third and last trip brought ashore the rest of the
+party and the luggage, Tom remaining at the tiller.
+
+Mr. Coghlan had come down to meet us, but, seeing the peril of the
+first boat, had gone away until he heard we were all landed, and now
+returned to congratulate us on our narrow escape and present safety.
+After we had rested for a short time in the waiting-room, to recover
+from our fright and shake our dripping garments, we went to the Hotel
+de la Paix, where we dined, and at ten o'clock we walked down to the
+railway-station, where a large number of people had already assembled,
+some of whom were to accompany us to Azul, while others had only come
+to see us off.
+
+Everything had been most comfortably arranged for us in the special
+train. The interior fittings of two second-class American carriages
+had been completely taken out, and a canvas lining, divided into
+compartments, each containing a cozy little bed, had been substituted.
+Wash-stands, looking-glasses, &c., had been provided, and a profusion
+of beautiful flowers filled in every available spot. In a third car
+two tables, occupying its entire length, with seats on one side of
+each table, had been placed; and here it was intended that we should
+breakfast, lunch, and dine.
+
+_Monday, September 25th_.--We slept soundly--speaking for the children
+and myself--until we were aroused at six o'clock this morning by the
+agreeable intelligence that we had reached our destination. Azul is
+about 300 miles south of Buenos Ayres, on the Southern Railway. It is
+a small and primitive place in itself, but is situated in the midst
+of splendid pastures, both for rearing sheep and cattle, of which
+there are large flocks and herds.
+
+Whilst we were waiting for breakfast, we walked a little distance to
+see a troop of mares treading mud for bricks. It was a curious, but
+rather sad sight. Inside a circular enclosure, some fifty yards in
+diameter, about fifty half-starved animals, up to their houghs in very
+sloppy mud, were being driven round about, and up and down, as fast as
+they could go, by a mounted peon, assisted by five or six men on foot,
+outside the enclosure, armed with long heavy whips, which they used
+constantly. Some of the poor creatures had foals, which were tied up a
+little distance off, and which kept up a piteous whinnying, as an
+accompaniment to the lashings and crackings of the whips. On our way
+back to the station we saw a horse, attached to a light gig, bolt
+across the Pampas at full gallop, vainly pursued by a man on
+horseback. First one wheel came off and then the other; then the body
+of the gig was left behind, and then the shafts and most of the
+harness followed suit; until at last--as we afterwards heard--the
+runaway reached his home, about five miles off, with only his bridle
+remaining.
+
+At nine o'clock the breakfast-bell rang, and we found an excellent
+repast spread out for us on two long tables. An hour later we started
+in seven large carriages, and proceeded first to make the tour of the
+town, afterwards visiting the bank, and a fine new house in the course
+of construction by a native, built entirely of white marble from
+Italy. Then we paid a visit to some Indians--an old chief and his four
+wives, who have settled quietly down in a toldo near the town. They
+were not bad-looking, and appeared fairly comfortable, as they
+squatted in the open air round the fire, above which was suspended a
+large iron pot, containing, to judge by the look and smell, a most
+savoury preparation. We next went to a store, where we picked up a few
+curiosities, and then drove to the mill of Azul, a new establishment,
+of which the inhabitants of the town are evidently very proud. There
+is a pretty walk by the mill-stream, overhung with willows, and close
+by is another toldo, inhabited by more Indians.
+
+[Illustration: Indians at Azul]
+
+Leaving the town, we now proceeded about two leagues across the Pampas
+to Mr. Frer's estancia. He is a farmer, on a very extensive scale, and
+possesses about 24,000 sheep and 500 horses, besides goodly herds of
+cattle. The locusts have not visited this part of the country, and the
+pastures are consequently in fine condition after the late rains,
+while the sheep look proportionately well. We passed a large
+_grasseria_, or place where sheep are killed at the rate of seven in a
+minute, and are skinned, cut up, and boiled down for tallow in an
+incredibly short space of time, the residue of the meat being used in
+the furnace as fuel. Running about loose, outside, were four or five
+curly-horned rams, between two of which a grand combat took place,
+apparently conducted in strict accordance with the rules of fighting
+etiquette. The two animals began by walking round and round, eyeing
+each other carefully, and then retiring backwards a certain distance,
+which might have been measured out for them, they stopped so exactly
+simultaneously. Then, gazing steadfastly at one another for a few
+moments, as if to take aim, they rushed forward with tremendous force,
+dashing their foreheads together with a crash that might have been
+heard a mile away. It seemed marvellous that they did not fracture
+their skulls, for they repeated the operation three or four times
+before Mr. Frer could get a man to help to stop the fight, when the
+two combatants were led off, in a very sulky state, to be locked up
+apart.
+
+Arrangements had been made for us to see as much of station-life as
+possible during our short visit. The peons' dinner had been put back,
+in order that we might witness their peculiar method of roasting, or
+rather baking, their food, and eating it; but we were rather later
+than was expected, and the men were so hungry that we were only able
+to see the end of the performance. Mr. Frer had also sent a long way
+across the Pampas for some wild horses, belonging to him, in order
+that we might see them lassoed; and Colonel Donovan had brought with
+him one of his best domidors, or horse-breakers, that we might have an
+opportunity of seeing an unbroken colt caught and backed for the first
+time.
+
+About a hundred horses were driven into a large corral, and several
+gauchos and peons, some on horseback and some on foot, exhibited their
+skill with the lasso, by catching certain of the animals, either by
+the fore leg, the hind leg, or the neck, as they galloped round and
+round at full speed. The captured animal got a tremendous fall in each
+case, and if the mounted horse was not very clever and active, he and
+his rider were very likely to be thrown down also. There was the risk
+too of the man receiving an injury from the lasso itself, if it should
+happen to get round his body, in which case he would probably be
+almost cut in half by the sudden jerk.
+
+[Illustration: Lassoing Horses.]
+
+The next proceeding was to cast a lasso at a _potro_, or unbroken
+colt, who was galloping about in the very centre of the troop, at full
+speed. His fore legs were caught dexterously in the noose, which
+brought him up, or rather down, instantly, head over heels. Another
+lasso was then thrown over his head, and drawn quite tight round his
+neck, and a bridle, composed of two or three thongs of raw hide, was
+forced into his mouth by means of a slip-knot rein. A sheepskin saddle
+was placed on his back, the man who was to ride him standing over him,
+with one foot already in the stirrup. All this time the poor horse was
+lying on the ground, with his legs tied close together, frightened
+almost out of his life, trembling in every limb, and perspiring from
+every pore. When the man was ready, the horse's legs were loosened
+sufficiently to allow him to rise, and he was then led outside the
+corral. The lassoes were suddenly withdrawn, and he dashed forwards,
+springing and plunging upwards, sideways, downwards, in every
+direction, in the vain effort to rid himself of his unaccustomed load.
+The man remained planted, like a rock, in the saddle, pulling hard at
+the bridle, while a second domidor, mounted on a tame horse, pursued
+the terrified animal, striking him with a cruel whip to make him go in
+the required direction. After about ten minutes of this severe
+exercise, the captive returned to the corral, exhausted, and perfectly
+cowed, and showing no desire to rejoin his late companions. In order
+to complete the process of breaking him in, we were told that it would
+be necessary to keep him tied up for two or three days, rather short
+of food, and to repeat daily the operation of saddling, bridling, and
+mounting, the difficulty being less on each occasion, until at last he
+would become as quiet as a lamb.
+
+We now saw our train approaching, orders having been given for it to
+come as far as it could from the station to meet us. We wished
+good-bye to Mr. Frer and his party, and, with many thanks to all, got
+into our carriages and drove across the plains to the railway. On our
+way we passed some large lagunes, full of wild fowl, and surrounded by
+scarlet flamingoes and pelicans. The ground we had to traverse was
+very boggy; so much so, that two of the carriages got stuck, and their
+occupants had to turn out and walk. At last we reached the train, and
+climbed into the cars, where we found an excellent luncheon prepared,
+which we ate whilst the train dashed along at the rate of forty miles
+an hour. About seven o'clock we stopped for tea and coffee, and the
+children were put to bed. By nine we had reached the junction for
+Buenos Ayres, where an engine met us, and took most of our party into
+the city, in one of the cars, while we went on to Punta Lara, the
+station for Ensenada.
+
+On arriving we were met by several of our men, who had been allowed to
+go ashore at Buenos Ayres on Sunday morning, and had not been able to
+rejoin the yacht since. On Sunday night, when they were to have
+returned, it was impossible for them to get off. Even the whale-boat
+was nearly dashed to pieces, at anchor, near the pier. They spent the
+early part of Monday morning in hunting everywhere with the pilot for
+the lost steward, and at last left the shore just in time to see the
+yacht steaming down the river, with only half her crew on board, and
+without a pilot. It seems they had been waited for from eight o'clock
+until eleven; it then became necessary to get under way, for fear of
+losing the tide. As it was, the yacht had not been able to get near
+the pier at Ensenada, and was now lying in the river, two miles out.
+The station-master, having been informed of the state of affairs, very
+kindly had steam got up in the railway tug to take us off. The
+children, with their nurses, remained in bed in the car, which was
+shunted into a siding until the morning, the doctor staying on shore
+in charge. The rest of us then set out for the yacht, which we reached
+at 1 a.m., only to be greeted with the pleasing intelligence that no
+fresh provisions had arrived on board for the party of friends we were
+expecting. The captain of the tug was good enough to promise to do
+what he could for us on shore; but everything is brought here from
+Buenos Ayres, and it is too late to telegraph for a supply. We cannot
+help fearing that something must have happened to our steward, for he
+has always been most steady and respectable hitherto, and I fancy
+Buenos Ayres is rather a wild place. Every inquiry is to be made, and
+I can only trust the morning may bring us some news.
+
+_Tuesday, September 26th_.--The morning was fine, with a nice breeze,
+but the tide was so low that we should have been unable to get
+alongside the pier until ten o'clock, when Tom thought we should just
+miss our guests. It was therefore decided that it would be better to
+send the steam-tug to meet the special train, especially as, if we
+took the yacht in, it would be impossible to get out again in the
+middle of the night, when we had arranged to sail.
+
+The steam-tug came off early, bringing two sheep, half a bullock, and
+some wild ducks, much to the relief of the cook's mind; but there were
+no vegetables to be had on shore, and of course it was too late to
+send to Buenos Ayres for any. We had to do the best we could without
+them, therefore, and I really do not think any one knew of the dilemma
+we had been in, until they were told, at the end of the day. The
+servants all turned to and worked with a will; but it was rather a
+different matter from having a large luncheon party on board in the
+Thames, with our London servants and supplies to fall back upon.
+
+For our own part, I think we all felt that the comparative scarcity of
+meat this morning was an agreeable change, after our recent
+experiences. Animal food is so cheap and so good in this country that
+at every meal four or five dishes of beef or mutton, dressed in
+various ways, are provided. In the camp--as all the country round
+Buenos Ayres is called--people eat nothing but meat, either fresh or
+dried, and hardly any flour with it. Especially in the more distant
+estancias, beef and mutton, poultry and eggs, form the staple food of
+the inhabitants. Very little bread is eaten, and no vegetables, and an
+attempt is rarely made to cultivate a garden of any sort. This year,
+too, the ravages of the locusts have made vegetable food scarcer than
+ever, and it must now be looked upon quite as a luxury by very many
+people; for there can be little doubt that to live entirely on meat,
+even of the best quality, though probably strengthening, must be
+exceedingly monotonous.
+
+About one o'clock we saw the tug coming off again, this time with her
+decks crowded. We found she had brought us fifteen ladies and thirty
+gentlemen--more than we had expected, on account of the shortness of
+the notice we had been able to give. The luncheon was managed by
+dividing our guests into three parties, the coffee and dessert being
+served on deck; but I am afraid the last division got very hungry
+before their time arrived. It could not, however, be helped, and it is
+to be hoped that the examination of the various parts of the yacht and
+her contents served to while away the time. Every one seemed to be
+pleased with the appearance of the vessel, never having seen one like
+her before. Indeed, the only yacht that has ever been here previously
+is the 'Eothen,' which formerly belonged to us.
+
+Mr. St. John's servant brought me a most magnificent bouquet, composed
+entirely of violets, arranged in the shape of a basket, three feet in
+width, full of camellias, and marked with my initials in alyssum.
+Altogether it was quite a work of art, but almost overpoweringly
+sweet.
+
+It was late before our friends began the task of saying good-bye--no
+light matter where, as in the present case, it is doubtful whether, or
+at any rate when, we shall meet again. At last they left us, steaming
+round the yacht in the tug, and giving us some hearty cheers as they
+passed. The Minister's flag was run up, salutes were exchanged, and
+the little steamer rapidly started off in the direction of the shore,
+followed by a dense cloud of her own smoke. Through a telescope we
+watched our friends disembark at the pier, and saw the train steam
+away; and then we turned our thoughts to the arrangements for our own
+departure.
+
+_Wednesday, September 27th_.--A fine breeze was blowing this morning,
+in a favourable direction for our start, but as ten and eleven o'clock
+arrived, and there were still no signs of the expected stores, Tom was
+in despair, and wanted to sail without them. I therefore volunteered
+to go ashore in the gig and see what had happened to them, and
+telegraph, if necessary, to Mr. Crabtree. Fortunately, we met the tug
+on our way, and returned in tow of her to the yacht. Then, after
+settling a few bills, and obtaining our bill of health, we got the
+anchor up, and proceeded down the river under sail. Between one and
+two o'clock we commenced steaming, and in the course of the evening
+were clear of the River Plate and fairly on our way to the Straits of
+Magellan.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+RIVER PLATE TO SANDY POINT, STRAITS OF MAGELLAN.
+
+    _I have seen tempests, when the scolding winds_
+    _Have riv'd the knotty oaks; and I have seen_
+    _The ambitious ocean swell and rage and foam,_
+    _To be exalted with the threat'ning clouds:_
+    _But never till to-night, never till now_
+    _Did I go through a tempest dropping fire._
+
+
+_Thursday, September 28th_,--A fine bright morning, with a strong,
+fair wind. The order to stop firing was given at noon, and we ceased
+steaming shortly after. There had evidently been a gale from the
+southward during the last few days, for the swell was tremendous, and
+not only made us all feel very uncomfortable after our long stay in
+harbour, but considerably diminished our speed. Still, we managed to
+go twenty-seven knots in two hours and a half.
+
+I was lying down, below, after breakfast, feeling very stupid, when
+Mabelle rushed into the cabin, saying, 'Papa says you are to come up
+on deck at once, to see the ship on fire.' I rushed up quickly, hardly
+knowing whether she referred to our own or some other vessel, and on
+reaching the deck I found everybody looking at a large barque, under
+full sail, flying the red union-jack upside down, and with signals in
+her rigging, which our signal-man read as 'Ship on fire.' These were
+lowered shortly afterwards, and the signals, 'Come on board at once,'
+hoisted in their place. Still we could see no appearance of smoke or
+flames, but we nevertheless hauled to the wind, tacked, hove to, and
+sent off a boat's crew, well armed, thinking it not impossible that a
+mutiny had taken place on board and that the captain or officers,
+mistaking the yacht for a gunboat, had appealed to us for assistance.
+We were now near enough to the barque to make out her name through a
+glass--the 'Monkshaven,' of Whitby--and we observed a puff of smoke
+issue from her deck simultaneously with the arrival of our boat
+alongside. In the course of a few minutes, the boat returned, bringing
+the mate of the 'Monkshaven,' a fine-looking Norwegian, who spoke
+English perfectly, and who reported his ship to be sixty-eight days
+out from Swansea, bound for Valparaiso, with a cargo of smelting coal.
+The fire had first been discovered on the previous Sunday, and by 6
+a.m. on Monday the crew had got up their clothes and provisions on
+deck, thrown overboard all articles of a combustible character, such
+as tar, oil, paint, spare spars and sails, planks, and rope, and
+battened down the hatches. Ever since then they had all been living on
+deck, with no protection from the wind and sea but a canvas screen.
+Tom and Captain Brown proceeded on board at once. They found the deck
+more than a foot deep in water, and all a-wash; when the hatches were
+opened for a moment dense clouds of hot suffocating yellow smoke
+immediately poured forth, driving back all who stood near. From the
+captain's cabin came volumes of poisonous gas, which had found its way
+in through the crevices, and one man, who tried to enter, was rendered
+insensible.
+
+[Illustration: Monkshaven on Fire.]
+
+It was perfectly evident that it would be impossible to save the ship,
+and the captain therefore determined, after consultation with Tom and
+Captain Brown, to abandon her. Some of the crew were accordingly at
+once brought on board the 'Sunbeam,' in our boat, which was then sent
+back to assist in removing the remainder, a portion of whom came in
+their own boat. The poor fellows were almost wild with joy at getting
+alongside another ship, after all the hardships they had gone through,
+and in their excitement they threw overboard many things which they
+might as well have kept, as they had taken the trouble to bring them.
+Our boat made three trips altogether, and by half-past six we had them
+all safe on board, with most of their effects, and the ship's
+chronometers, charts, and papers.
+
+The poor little dingy, belonging to the 'Monkshaven,' had been cast
+away as soon as the men had disembarked from her, and there was
+something melancholy in seeing her slowly drift away to leeward,
+followed by her oars and various small articles, as if to rejoin the
+noble ship she had so lately quitted. The latter was now hove-to,
+under full sail, an occasional puff of smoke alone betraying the
+presence of the demon of destruction within. The sky was dark and
+lowering, the sunset red and lurid in its grandeur, the clouds
+numerous and threatening, the sea high and dark, with occasional
+streaks of white foam. Not a breath of wind was stirring. Everything
+portended a gale. As we lay slowly rolling from side to side, both
+ship and boat were sometimes plainly visible, and then again both
+would disappear, for what seemed an age, in the deep trough of the
+South Atlantic rollers.
+
+For two hours we could see the smoke pouring from various portions of
+the ill-fated barque. Our men, who had brought off the last of her
+crew, reported that, as they left her, flames were just beginning to
+burst from the fore-hatchway; and it was therefore certain that the
+rescue had not taken place an hour too soon. Whilst we were at dinner,
+Powell called us up on deck to look at her again, when we found that
+she was blazing like a tar-barrel. The captain was anxious to stay by
+and see the last of her, but Tom was unwilling to incur the delay
+which this would have involved. We accordingly got up steam, and at
+nine p.m. steamed round the 'Monkshaven,' as close as it was deemed
+prudent to go. No flames were visible then; only dense volumes of
+smoke and sparks, issuing from the hatches. The heat, however, was
+intense, and could be plainly felt, even in the cold night air, as we
+passed some distance to leeward. All hands were clustered in our
+rigging, on the deck-house or on the bridge, to see the last of the
+poor 'Monkshaven,' as she was slowly being burnt down to the water's
+edge.
+
+She was a large and nearly new (three years old) composite ship, built
+and found by her owners, Messrs. Smales, of Whitby, of 657 tons
+burden, and classed A 1 for ten years at Lloyd's. Her cargo, which
+consisted of coal for smelting purposes, was a very dangerous one; so
+much so that Messrs. Nicholas, of Sunderland, from whose mines the
+coal is procured, have great difficulty in chartering vessels to carry
+it, and are therefore in the habit of building and using their own
+ships for the purpose. At Buenos Ayres we were told that, of every
+three ships carrying this cargo round to Valparaiso or Callao, one
+catches fire, though the danger is frequently discovered in time to
+prevent much damage to the vessel or loss of life.
+
+The crew of the 'Monkshaven'--Danes, Norwegians, Swedes, Scotch, and
+Welsh--appear to be quiet, respectable men. This is fortunate, as an
+incursion of fifteen rough lawless spirits on board our little vessel
+would have been rather a serious matter. In their hurry and fright,
+however, they left all their provisions behind them, and it is no joke
+to have to provide food for fifteen extra hungry mouths for a week or
+ten days, with no shops at hand from which to replenish our stores.
+The sufficiency of the water supply, too, is a matter for serious
+consideration. We have all been put on half-allowance, and sea-water
+only is to be used for washing purposes.
+
+[Illustration: Shipwrecked Crew coming on Board.]
+
+Some account of the disaster, as gathered from the lips of various
+members of the crew at different times, may perhaps be interesting. It
+seems that, early on Monday morning, the day following that on which
+the fire was discovered, another barque, the 'Robert Hinds,' of
+Liverpool, was spoken. The captain of that vessel offered to stand by
+them or do anything in his power to help them; but at that time they
+had a fair wind for Monte Video, only 120 miles distant, and they
+therefore determined to run for that port, and do their best to save
+the ship, and possibly some of the cargo. In the course of the night,
+however, a terrible gale sprang up, the same, no doubt, as the one of
+which we had felt the effects on first leaving the River Plate. They
+were driven hither and thither, the sea constantly breaking over them
+and sweeping the decks, though fortunately without washing any of them
+overboard. After forty-eight hours of this rough usage the men were
+all exhausted, while the fire was gradually increasing in strength
+beneath their feet, and they knew not at what moment it might burst
+through the decks and envelope the whole ship in flames. They were
+beginning to abandon all hope of a rescue, when a sail was suddenly
+discovered; and as soon as the necessary flags could be found, the
+same signal which attracted us was displayed. The vessel, now quite
+close to them, proved to be a large American steamer, but she merely
+hoisted her own ensign and code-pennant, and then coolly steamed away
+to the southward. 'I think that captain deserved tarring and
+feathering, anyway,' one of the men said to me. Another observed, 'I
+wonder what will become of that man; for we had put all our lives in
+his hand by signalling as we did; and every seaman knows that right
+well.' Another said, 'When we saw that ship go away, we all gave in
+and lay down in despair to die. But our captain, who is very good to
+his crew, and a religious man too, said, "There is One above who looks
+after us all." That was true enough, for, about ten minutes
+afterwards, as I was talking to the cook, and telling him it was all
+over with us, I saw a sail to leeward, and informed the captain. We
+bore down a little, but did not like to go out of our course too much,
+fearing you might be a "Portuguese," and play us the same trick as the
+American.' (They could not understand our white ensign; for, our
+funnel being stowed, we looked like a sailing vessel, while all
+gunboats of our size are steamers.) 'When we saw it was an English
+vessel, and that you answered our signals and sent a boat off, we were
+indeed thankful; though that was nothing to what we feel now at once
+more having a really dry ship under our feet. Not that we have really
+suffered anything very terrible, for we had a bit of shelter, and
+plenty to eat, and the worst part was seeing our things washed
+overboard, and thinking perhaps we might go next. We have not had a
+dry deck since we left Swansea, and the pumps have been kept going
+most of the time. Why, with this sea, ma'am, our decks would be under
+water.' (This surprised me; as, though low in the water, the
+'Monkshaven' did not appear to be overladen, and the Plimsoll mark was
+plainly visible.) 'Our boats were all ready for launching, but we had
+no sails, and only one rudder for the three; so we should have had
+hard work to fetch anywhere if we had taken to them. We lashed the two
+boys--apprentices, fourteen and sixteen years old--in one of the
+boats, for fear they should be washed overboard. The youngest of them
+is the only son of his mother, a widow; and you could see how she
+loved him by the way she had made his clothes, and fitted him out all
+through. He was altogether too well found for a ship like ours, but
+now most of his things are lost. His chest could not be got up from
+below, and though I borrowed an old bread-bag from the steward, it was
+not half big enough, and his sea-boots and things his mother had given
+him to keep him dry and cover his bed--not oilskins, like
+ours.'--'Mackintoshes,' I suggested.--'Yes, that's the name--they were
+all lost. It did seem a pity. The boy never thought there was much
+danger till this morning, when I told him all hope was gone, as the
+American ship had sailed away from us. He said, "Will the ship go to
+the bottom?" and I replied, "I fear so; but we have good boats, so
+keep up your heart, little man." He made no further remark, but laid
+down gently again, and cried a little.'
+
+This poor child was dreadfully frightened in the small boat coming
+alongside, and his look of joy and relief, when once he got safely on
+board, was a treat to me. Every one on board, including the captain,
+seems to have been very kind to him. One of the men had his foot
+broken by the sea, and the captain himself had his leg severely
+injured; so the Doctor has some cases at last.
+
+It was almost impossible to sleep during the night, owing to the heavy
+rolling, by far the most violent that we have yet experienced.
+
+_Friday, September 29th_.--Again a fine morning. A fair breeze sprang
+up, and, the dreaded storm having apparently passed over, we ceased
+steaming at 6 a.m.
+
+All on board are now settling down into something like order. The
+stewards are arranging matters below, and measuring out the stores, to
+allowance the men for twelve days. The men belonging respectively to
+the port and starboard watches of the 'Monkshaven' have been placed in
+the corresponding watches on board the 'Sunbeam.' The cook and steward
+are assisting ours below, and the two boys are very happy, helping in
+the kitchen, and making themselves generally useful. The deck does not
+look quite as neat as usual. Such of the men's sea-chests as have been
+saved are lashed round the steam-chest, so that they can be got at
+easily, while their bags and other odd things have been stowed on
+deck, wherever they can be kept dry; for every inch of available space
+below is occupied. Captain Runciman is writing, with tears in his
+eyes, the account of the loss of his fine ship. He tells me that he
+tried in vain to save sixty pounds' worth of his own private charts
+from his cabin, but it was impossible, on account of the stifling
+atmosphere, which nearly overpowered him. Fortunately, all his things
+are insured. He drowned his favourite dog, a splendid Newfoundland,
+just before leaving the ship; for, although a capital watch-dog, and
+very faithful, he was rather large and fierce; and when it was known
+that the 'Sunbeam' was a yacht, with ladies and children on board, he
+feared to introduce him. Poor fellow! I wish I had known about it in
+time to save his life!
+
+The great danger of smelting coal, as a ship's cargo, besides its
+special liability to spontaneous combustion, appears to be that the
+fire may smoulder in the very centre of the mass for so long that,
+when the smoke is at last discovered, it is impossible to know how far
+the mischief has advanced. It may go on smouldering quietly for days,
+or at any moment the gas that has been generated may burst up the
+vessel's decks from end to end, without the slightest warning. Or it
+may burn downwards, and penetrate some portion of the side of the ship
+below water; so that, before any suspicion has been aroused, the water
+rushes in, and the unfortunate ship and her crew go to the bottom. On
+board the 'Monkshaven' the men dug down into the cargo in many places
+on Sunday night, only to find that the heat became more intense the
+deeper they went; and several of them had their hands or fingers burnt
+in the operation.
+
+This has been about the best day for sailing that we have had since we
+left the tropics. The sea has been smooth, and a fair breeze has taken
+us steadily along at the rate of nine knots an hour. The sun shone
+brightly beneath a blue sky, and the temperature is delightful. The
+sunset was grand, though the sky looked threatening; but the moon rose
+brilliantly, and until we went to bed, at ten o'clock, the evening was
+as perfect as the day had been. At midnight, however, Tom and I were
+awakened by a knock at our cabin door, and the gruff voice of Powell,
+saying: 'The barometer's going down very fast, please, sir, and it's
+lightning awful in the sou'-west. There's a heavy storm coming up.' We
+were soon on deck, where we found all hands busily engaged in
+preparing for the tempest. Around us a splendid sight presented
+itself. On one side a heavy bank of black clouds could be seen rapidly
+approaching, while the rest of the heavens were brilliantly
+illuminated by forked and sheet lightning, the thunder meanwhile
+rolling and rattling without intermission. An ominous calm followed,
+during which the men had barely time to lower all the sails on deck,
+without waiting to stow them, the foresail and jib only being left
+standing, when the squall struck us, not very severely, but with a
+blast as hot as that from a furnace. We thought worse was coming, and
+continued our preparations; but the storm passed rapidly away to
+windward, and was succeeded by torrents of rain, so that it was
+evident we could only have had quite the tail of it.
+
+_Saturday, September 30th_.--The morning broke bright and clear, and
+was followed by a calm, bright, sunny day, of which I availed myself
+to take some photographs of the captain and crew of the 'Monkshaven.'
+The wind failed us entirely in the afternoon, and it became necessary
+to get up steam. In the ordinary course of things, we should probably
+have had sufficient patience to wait for the return of the breeze; but
+the recent large addition to our party made it desirable for us to
+lose as little time as possible in reaching Sandy Point. Another grand
+but wild-looking sunset seemed like the precursor of a storm; but we
+experienced nothing worse than a sharp squall of hot wind, accompanied
+by thunder and lightning.
+
+_Sunday, October 1st_.--A fine morning, with a fair wind. At eleven we
+had a short service, at four a longer one, with an excellent sermon
+from Tom, specially adapted to the rescue of the crew of the burning
+ship. As usual, the sunset, which was magnificent, was succeeded by a
+slight storm, which passed over without doing us any harm.
+
+I have said that it was found impossible to save any provisions from
+the 'Monkshaven.' As far as the men are concerned, I think this is
+hardly to be regretted, for I am told that the salt beef with which
+they were supplied had lain in pickle for so many years that the
+saltpetre had eaten all the nourishment out of it, and had made it so
+hard that the men, instead of eating it, used to amuse themselves by
+carving it into snuff-boxes, little models of ships, &c. I should
+not, however, omit to mention that Captain Runciman managed to bring
+away with him four excellent York hams, which he presented to us, and
+one of which we had to-day at dinner.
+
+_Wednesday, October 4th_.--At 6 a.m., on going on deck I found we were
+hove-to under steam and closely-reefed sails, a heavy gale blowing
+from the south-west, right ahead. The screw was racing round in the
+air every time we encountered an unusually big wave; the spray was
+dashing over the vessel, and the water was rushing along the
+deck--altogether an uncomfortable morning. As the sun rose, the gale
+abated, and in the course of the day the reefs were shaken out of the
+sails, one by one, until, by sunset, we were once more under whole
+canvas, beating to windward. There were several cries of 'land ahead'
+during the day, but in each case a closer examination, through a
+glass, proved that the fancied coast-line or mountain-top existed only
+in cloud-land.
+
+_Thursday, October 5th_.--We made the land early, and most
+uninteresting it looked, consisting, as it did, of a low sandy shore,
+with a background of light clay-coloured cliffs. Not a vestige of
+vegetation was anywhere to be seen, and I am quite at a loss to
+imagine what the guanacos and ostriches, with which the chart tells us
+the country hereabouts abounds, find to live upon. About twelve
+o'clock we made Cape Virgins, looking very like Berry Head to the
+north of Torbay, and a long spit of low sandy land, stretching out to
+the southward, appropriately called Dungeness.
+
+Some of the charts brought on board by Captain Runciman were published
+by Messrs. Imray, of London, and in one of them it is represented that
+a fine fixed light has been established on Cape Virgins.[2] This we
+knew to be an impossibility, not only on account of the general
+character of the country, but because no indication is given of the
+light in our newest Admiralty charts. Captain Runciman, however, had
+more confidence in the correctness of his own chart, and could hardly
+believe his eyes when he saw that the light really had no existence on
+the bare bleak headland. His faith was terribly shaken, and I hope he
+will not omit to call Messrs. Imray's attention to the matter on his
+return home; for the mistake is most serious, and one which might lead
+to the destruction of many a good ship.
+
+[Footnote 2: I have since received a letter from Messrs. Imray
+requesting me to state that the light was inserted on erroneous
+information from the hydrographic office at Washington, and has since
+been erased from their charts.]
+
+About two o'clock we saw in the far distance what looked at first like
+an island, and then like smoke, but gradually shaped itself into the
+masts, funnel, and hull of a large steamer. From her rig we at once
+guessed her to be the Pacific Company's mail boat, homeward bound.
+When near enough, we accordingly hoisted our number, and signalled 'We
+wish to communicate,' whereupon she bore down upon us and ceased
+steaming. We then rounded up under her lee and lowered a boat, and
+Tom, Mabelle, and I, with Captain Runciman and four or five of the
+shipwrecked crew, went on board. Our advent caused great excitement,
+and seamen and passengers all crowded into the bows to watch us. As we
+approached the ladder the passengers ran aft, and directly we reached
+the deck the captain took possession of Tom, the first and second
+officers of Mabelle and myself, while Captain Runciman and each of his
+crew were surrounded by a little audience eager to know what had
+happened, and all about it. At first it was thought that we all wanted
+a passage, but when we explained matters Captain Thomas, the commander
+of the 'Illimani,' very kindly undertook to receive all our refugees
+and convey them to England. We therefore sent the gig back for the
+rest of the men and the chests of the whole party, and then availed
+ourselves of the opportunity afforded by the delay to walk round the
+ship. It was most amusing to see the interest with which we were
+regarded by all on board. Passengers who had never been seen out of
+their berths since leaving Valparaiso, and others who were indulging,
+at the time of our visit, in the luxury of a 'day sleep,' between the
+twelve o'clock luncheon and four o'clock dinner, suddenly made their
+appearance, in dressing-gowns and wraps, with dishevelled hair and
+wide-opened eyes, gazing in mute astonishment at us, quite unable to
+account for our mysterious arrival on board in this out-of-the-way
+spot. A mail steamer does not stop for a light cause, and it was
+therefore evident to them that the present was no ordinary occurrence.
+The captain told us that the last time he passed through the Straits
+he picked up two boats' crews, who had escaped from a burning ship,
+and who had suffered indescribable hardships before they were rescued.
+
+Captain Runciman is convinced, after comparing notes with the chief
+officer of the 'Illimani,' that the vessel which refused to notice his
+signal of distress was the 'Wilmington,' sent down from New York, with
+a party of forty wreckers, to try and get the steamer 'Georgia' off
+the rocks near Port Famine, in the Straits of Magellan. If this be so,
+it is the more surprising that no attempt was made to render
+assistance to the 'Monkshaven,' provided her signals were understood,
+as the 'Wilmington' had plenty of spare hands, and could not have been
+in a particular hurry. Moreover, one would think that, with her
+powerful engines, she might have made an attempt to tow the distressed
+vessel into Monte Video, and so secure three or four thousand pounds
+of salvage money.
+
+The captain of the 'Illimani' kindly gave us half a bullock, killed
+this morning, a dozen live ducks and chickens, and the latest
+newspapers. Thus supplied with food for body and mind, we said
+farewell, and returned to the 'Sunbeam;' our ensigns were duly dipped,
+we steamed away on our respective courses, and in less than an hour we
+were out of sight of each other. It is a sudden change for the
+'Monkshaven' men, who were all very reluctant to leave the yacht. Many
+of them broke down at the last moment, particularly when it came to
+saying good-bye to Tom and me, at the gangway of the steamer. They had
+seemed thoroughly to appreciate any kindnesses they received while
+with us, and were anxious to show their gratitude in every possible
+way. The two boys, especially, were in great grief at their departure,
+and were very loth to part with their boatswain, who remains with us
+to make up our complement.[3]
+
+[Footnote 3: After our return to England the following letter reached
+us from Messrs. Smales:--
+
+                                       'Whitby, June 30th, 1877.
+'THOMAS BRASSEY, Esq.
+
+'DEAR SIR,--Observing by the newspapers that you have returned home
+after your cruise, we take this opportunity of thanking you most
+heartily for the valuable assistance you rendered to the crew of our
+late barque "Monkshaven," in lat. 43 28 S., lon. 62 21 W., after she
+proved to be on fire and beyond saving. Your kind favour of October 1
+last duly reached us, and it was very satisfactory to know from an
+authority like your own, that all was done under the trying
+circumstances that was possible, to save the ship and cargo. The
+inconvenience of having so many extra hands for the time on board your
+vessel, must have tried your resources; but you will be probably aware
+that the Board of Trade willingly compensate for loss sustained in
+rescuing a crew, when a claim is made. You will be glad to learn that
+the master and crew arrived all well, in due course, at Liverpool, by
+the "Illimani," and were very grateful for your kindness to them. Our
+ill-fated vessel must have sunk very soon after you took off the crew,
+as nothing more has been heard of her, and it was a most fortunate
+circumstance that you were so near at hand, more especially as the
+captain reported to us, that a vessel carrying the American colours
+took no notice of his signal of distress. As shipowners, we generally
+find that our own countrymen are more heroic, and always ready to lend
+a helping hand to brother mariners in distress, so that, as you say,
+we do not doubt you experienced some satisfaction in rendering this
+service.--Trusting that you have enjoyed your trip, we beg to remain
+yours, truly obliged,
+
+                                                'SMALES Brothers.']
+
+About 8 p.m. we anchored for the night in Possession Bay. It was thick
+at sunset, but afterwards clear and cold, with a splendid moon.
+
+_Friday, October 6th_.--We got under way at 5.30 a.m., and steamed
+past the low sandy coast of Patagonia and the rugged mountains of
+Tierra del Fuego, and through the First and Second Narrows, to Cape
+Negro, where the character of the scenery began to improve a little,
+the vegetation gradually changing from low scrubby brushwood to
+respectable-sized trees. When passing between Elizabeth Island, so
+named by Sir Francis Drake, and the island of Santa Madalena, we
+looked in vain for the myriads of seals, otters, and sea-lions with
+which this portion of the Straits is said to abound; but we saw only
+seven or eight little black spots on the shore, in the distance, which
+disappeared into the sea as we approached.
+
+At 3 p.m. we reached Sandy Point, the only civilised place in the
+Straits. It is a Chilian settlement, and a large convict establishment
+has been formed here by the Government. Almost before we had dropped
+our anchor, the harbour-master came on board, closely followed by the
+officers of the two Chilian men-of-war lying in the harbour. The rain,
+which had been threatening all day, now descended in torrents, and we
+landed in a perfect downpour. We thought the pier at Buenos Ayres
+unsafe and rickety, but here matters were still worse, for the head of
+the structure had been completely washed away by a gale, and no little
+care was necessary in order to step across the broken timbers in
+safety. The town, which contains between 1,200 and 1,300 inhabitants,
+is composed entirely of one-storied log huts, with slate or tile
+roofs, and with or without verandahs. They are all arranged in
+squares, separated from each other by wide roads; and the whole
+settlement is surrounded by stockades. At the further end of the town
+stands the convict prison, distinguished by its tower, and the
+Governor's house, which, though built of wood, is the most
+pretentious-looking edifice in the place. There is a nice little
+church close by, and some tidy-looking barracks.
+
+We went straight to the house of the British Vice-Consul, who received
+us very kindly, and promised to do what he could to assist us in
+obtaining supplies; but the resources of the place are limited, and
+eggs, ship's beef and biscuits, and water, will, I expect, be the sum
+total of what we shall be able to procure. In fact, it is rather
+doubtful whether we shall even be able to renew our stock of coal. In
+the meantime we started off to potter about the town, finding,
+however, very little to amuse us. There were some new-laid ostrich
+eggs to be bought, and some queer-looking worked Patagonian
+saddle-bags.
+
+I fear we shall not see any of the Patagonians themselves, for they
+come to the colony only three or four times a year, to purchase
+supplies, and to sell skins and ostrich eggs. They are a mounted tribe
+of Indians, living on the northern plains, and are now on their way
+down here, to pay one of their periodical visits; but, being
+encumbered with their families, they move very slowly, and are not
+expected to arrive for another ten days. They will no doubt bring a
+splendid supply of skins, just too late for us, which is rather
+disappointing, particularly as we are not likely to have another
+opportunity of meeting with them at any of the places we touch at.
+They live so far in the interior of the country that they very seldom
+visit the coast.
+
+We went to see three Fuegian females, who are living in a house
+belonging to the medical officer of the colony. They were picked up a
+short time since by a passing steamer from a canoe, in which they had
+evidently sought refuge from some kind of cruelty or oppression. The
+biggest of them, a stout fine-looking woman, had a terrible gash in
+her leg, quite recently inflicted, and the youngest was not more than
+eight years old. They appeared cheerful and happy, but we were told
+that they are not likely to live long. After the free life and the
+exposure to which they have been accustomed, civilisation--in the
+shape of clothing and hot houses--almost always kills them. Their
+lungs become diseased, and they die miserably. Their skin is slightly
+copper-coloured, their complexions high-coloured, their hair thick and
+black; and, though certainly not handsome, they are by no means so
+repulsive as I had expected from the descriptions of Cook, Dampier,
+Darwin, and other more recent travellers.
+
+[Illustration: Fuegian Weapons.]
+
+_Saturday, October 7th_.--My birthday. Tom gave me a beautiful
+guanaco-skin robe, and the children presented me with two ostrich
+rugs. The guanaco is a kind of large deer, and it is said that the
+robes made from its skin are the warmest in the world. People here
+assure me that, with the hair turned inside, these robes have afforded
+them sufficient protection to enable them to sleep in comfort in the
+open air, exposed to snow, frost, and rain. They are made from the
+skin of the young fawns, killed before they are thirteen days old, or,
+better still, from the skins of those which have never had an
+independent existence. In colour, the animals are a yellowish brown on
+the back, and white underneath, and they are so small that when each
+skin is split up it produces only two triangular patches, about the
+size of one's hand. A number of these are then, with infinite trouble,
+sewed neatly together by the Indian women, who use the fine leg-sinews
+of the ostrich as thread. Those worn by the caciques, or chiefs, have
+generally a pattern in the centre, a brown edging, and spots of red
+and blue paint on the part which is worn outwards. Such robes are
+particularly difficult to obtain, on account of the labour and time
+necessary to produce them. Each cacique keeps several wives constantly
+employed in making them, of the best as well as of the ordinary
+description. The ostrich rugs, which are made here, are more
+ornamental, though not so warm and light as the guanaco robes. They
+are made of the entire skin of the ostrich, from which the long
+wing-feathers have been pulled out. Mabelle has been given a beautiful
+little rug composed of the skins of thirty little ostriches, all from
+one nest, killed when they were a fortnight old, each skin resembling
+a prettily marked ball of fluff.
+
+At eleven o'clock we went ashore. The Governor had kindly provided
+horses for all the party, and while they were being saddled I took
+some photographs. There are plenty of horses here, but the only
+saddles and bridles to be had are those used by the natives. The
+saddles are very cumbrous and clumsy to look at, though rather
+picturesque. They are formed of two bits of wood, covered with about a
+dozen sheepskins and ponchos; not at all uncomfortable to ride in, and
+very suitable for a night's bivouac in the open. 'Plenty of nice soft
+rugs to lie upon and cover yourself with, instead of a hard English
+saddle for your bed and stirrups for blankets,' as a native once said,
+when asked which he preferred. About one o'clock we started,
+accompanied by the officers commanding the garrison and two attendant
+cavaliers, equipped in Chilian style, with enormous carved modern
+stirrups, heavy bits and spurs much bigger than those whose size
+struck us so much in the Argentine Republic. We had a pleasant ride,
+first across a sandy plain and through one or two small rivers, to a
+saw-mill, situated on the edge of an extensive forest, through which
+we proceeded for some miles. The road was a difficult one, and our
+progress was but slow, being often impeded by a morass or by the trunk
+of a tree which had fallen right across the path, and was now rapidly
+rotting into touchwood under the influence of the damp atmosphere and
+incessant rain. Lichens of every colour and shape abounded, and
+clothed the trunks gracefully, contrasting with the tender spring
+tints of the leaves, while the long hairy tillandsia, like an old
+man's beard, three or four feet long, hung down from the topmost
+branches. The ground was carpeted with moss, interspersed with a few
+early spring flowers, and the whole scene, though utterly unlike that
+presented by any English forest, had a strange weird beauty of its
+own. Not a sound could be heard; not a bird, beast, or insect was to
+be seen. The larger trees were principally a peculiar sort of beech
+and red cedar, but all kinds of evergreens, known to us at home as
+shrubs, such as laurestine, and various firs, here attain the
+proportions of forest-trees. There is also a tree called Winter's Bark
+(_Drimys Winteri_), the leaves and bark of which are hot and bitter,
+and form an excellent substitute for quinine. But the most striking
+objects were the evergreen berberis and mahonia, and the Darwinia, the
+larger sort of which was covered with brilliant orange, almost
+scarlet, flowers, which hung down in bunches, of the shape and size of
+small outdoor grapes.
+
+[Illustration: Fuegian Bow and Arrows.]
+
+On our way back we took a sharp turn leading to the sea-shore, to
+which the forest extends in places, and rode along the beach towards
+the town. It was low water, or this would not have been possible, and
+as it was, we often had considerable difficulty in making our way
+between wood and water. The day was bright and clear, with a bitterly
+cold wind and occasional heavy showers of rain; a fair average day
+for Sandy Point. It is further west, they say, that the weather is so
+hopeless. Lieutenant Byron, in his terribly interesting account of the
+wreck of the 'Wager,' says that one fine day in three months is the
+most that can be expected. I wonder, not without misgivings, if we
+really shall encounter all the bad weather we not only read of but
+hear of from every one we meet. Though very anxious to see the
+celebrated Straits, I shall not be sorry when we are safely through,
+and I trust that the passage may not occupy the whole of the three
+weeks which Tom has been advised to allow for it.
+
+We saw a few sea-birds, specially some 'steamer-ducks,' so called from
+their peculiar mode of progression through the water. They neither
+swim nor fly, but use their wings like the paddles of a steamer, with
+a great noise and splutter, and go along very fast. On reaching the
+plains we had an opportunity of testing the speed of our horses, which
+warmed us up a little after our slow progress by the water's edge in
+the bitter wind. We rode all round the stockades, outside the town,
+before dismounting; but I saw nothing of special interest. Before the
+party broke up, arrangements were made for us to go to morrow to one
+of the Government corrals, to see the cattle lassoed and branded--an
+operation which is always performed twice a year.
+
+We reached the yacht again at half-past five. Dr. Fenton came on board
+to dinner, and from him we heard a great deal about the colony, the
+Patagonians or Horse Indians, and the Fuegians or Canoe Indians. The
+former inhabit, or rather roam over, a vast tract of country. They are
+almost constantly on horseback, and their only shelter consists of
+toldos, or tents, made of the skins of the old guanacos, stretched
+across a few poles. They are tall and strong, averaging six feet in
+height, and are bulky in proportion; but their size is nothing like so
+great as old travellers have represented. Both men and women wear a
+long flowing mantle of skins, reaching from the waist to the ankle,
+with a large loose piece hanging down on one side, ready to be thrown
+over their heads whenever necessary, which is fastened by a large flat
+pin hammered out either from the rough silver or from a dollar. This,
+their sole garment, has the effect of adding greatly in appearance to
+their height. They never wash, but daub their bodies with paint and
+grease, especially the women. Their only weapons are knives and bolas,
+the latter of which they throw with unerring precision. During their
+visits to the Sandy Point settlement their arms are always taken from
+them, for they are extremely quarrelsome, particularly when drunk.
+Nobody has been able to ascertain that they possess any form of sacred
+belief, or that they perform any religious ceremonies. Their food
+consists principally of the flesh of mares, troops of which animals
+always accompany them on their excursions. They also eat
+ostrich-flesh, which is considered a great delicacy, as well as the
+fish the women catch, and the birds' eggs they find. Vegetable food is
+almost unknown to them, and bread is never used, though they do
+sometimes purchase a little flour, rice, and a few biscuits, on the
+occasion of their visits to the colony.
+
+[Illustration: Pin for fastening Cloak, made from a Dollar, beaten
+out.]
+
+The Fuegians, or Canoe Indians, as they are generally called, from
+their living so much on the water, and having no settled habitations
+on shore, are a much smaller race of savages, inhabiting Tierra del
+Fuego--literally Land of Fire--so called from the custom the
+inhabitants have of lighting fires on prominent points as signals of
+assembly. The English residents here invariably call it Fireland--a
+name I had never heard before, and which rather puzzled me at first.
+Whenever it is observed that a ship is in distress, or that
+shipwrecked mariners have been cast ashore, the signal-fires appear as
+if by magic, and the natives flock together like vultures round a
+carcase. On the other hand, if all goes well, vessels often pass
+through the Straits without seeing a single human being, the savages
+and their canoes lying concealed beneath the overhanging branches of
+trees on the shore. They are cannibals, and are placed by Darwin in
+the lowest scale of humanity. An old author describes them as 'magpies
+in chatter, baboons in countenance, and imps in treachery.' Those
+frequenting the eastern end of the Straits wear--if they wear anything
+at all--a deerskin mantle, descending to the waist: those at the
+western end wear cloaks made from the skin of the sea-otter. But most
+of them are quite naked. Their food is of the most meagre description,
+and consists mainly of shell-fish, sea-eggs, for which the women dive
+with much dexterity, and fish, which they train their dogs to assist
+them in catching. These dogs are sent into the water at the entrance
+to a narrow creek or small bay, and they then bark and flounder about
+and drive the fish before them into shallow water, where they are
+caught.
+
+[Illustration: Fuegian Boat and Oars.]
+
+Bishop Stirling, of the Falkland Islands, has been cruising about
+these parts in a small schooner, and visiting the natives, for the
+last twelve years, and the Governor here tells us that he has done
+much good in promoting their civilisation; while the hardships he has
+endured, and the difficulties and dangers he has surmounted, have
+required almost superhuman energy and fortitude on his part. The
+Fuegians, as far as is known, have no religion of their own.
+
+The 'Wilmington' came in this morning. Her captain declares that as
+the 'Monkshaven' was not hove-to, he never thought that there could be
+anything seriously amiss with her. His glass was not good enough to
+enable him to make out the union-jack reversed, or the signal of
+distress, which he therefore supposed to be merely the ship's number.
+It was satisfactory to hear this explanation; and as not only the
+interests of humanity, but his own, were involved, there is every
+reason to believe that his account of the transaction is perfectly
+true.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+SANDY POINT TO LOTA BAY.
+
+    _And far abroad the canvas wings extend,_
+    _Along the glassy plain the vessel glides,_
+    _While azure radiance trembles on her sides._
+    _The lunar rays in long reflection gleam,_
+    _With silver deluging the fluid stream._
+
+
+_Sunday, October 8th_.--At 6 a.m. we weighed anchor, and proceeded on
+our voyage. At first there was not much to admire in the way of
+scenery, the shores being low and sandy, with occasional patches of
+scrubby brushwood, and a background of granite rocks and mountains.
+
+Soon after passing Port Famine we saw the bold outline of Cape
+Froward, the southernmost point of South America, stretching into the
+Straits. It is a fine headland, and Tom ordered the engines to be
+stopped in order to enable Mr. Bingham to sketch, and me to
+photograph, both it and the splendid view back through the channel we
+had just traversed to the snowy range of mountains in the distance,
+crowned by Mount Sarmiento, not unlike the Matterhorn in appearance.
+
+At this point the weather generally changes, and I suppose we must
+look forward to living in mackintoshes for some little time to come.
+
+In the afternoon, when in English Reach, where many vessels have been
+lost, great excitement was caused on board by the appearance of a
+canoe on our port bow. She was stealing out from the Barbara Channel,
+and as she appeared to be making direct for us, Tom ordered the
+engines to be slowed. Her occupants thereupon redoubled their
+efforts, and came paddling towards us, shouting and making the most
+frantic gesticulations, one man waving a skin round his head with an
+amount of energy that threatened to upset the canoe. This frail craft,
+upon a nearer inspection, proved to be made only of rough planks,
+rudely tied together with the sinews of animals; in fact, one of the
+party had to bale constantly, in order to keep her afloat. We flung
+them a rope, and they came alongside, shouting 'Tabaco, galleta'
+(biscuit), a supply of which we threw down to them, in exchange for
+the skins they had been waving; whereupon the two men stripped
+themselves of the skin mantles they were wearing, made of eight or ten
+sea-otter skins sewed together with finer sinews than those used for
+the boat, and handed them up, clamouring for more tobacco, which we
+gave them, together with some beads and knives.[4] Finally, the woman,
+influenced by this example, parted with her sole garment, in return
+for a little more tobacco, some beads, and some looking-glasses I had
+thrown into the canoe.
+
+[Illustration: Bartering with Fuegians]
+
+[Footnote 4: These skins proved to be the very finest quality ever
+plucked, and each separate skin was valued in England at from 4_l_. to
+5_l_.]
+
+The party consisted of a man, a woman, and a lad; and I think I never
+saw delight more strongly depicted than it was on the faces of the two
+latter, when they handled, for the first time in their lives probably,
+some strings of blue, red, and green glass beads. They had two rough
+pots, made of bark, in the boat, which they also sold, after which
+they reluctantly departed, quite naked but very happy, shouting and
+jabbering away in the most inarticulate language imaginable. It was
+with great difficulty we could make them let go the rope, when we went
+ahead, and I was quite afraid they would be upset. They were all fat
+and healthy-looking, and, though not handsome, their appearance was by
+no means repulsive; the countenance of the woman, especially, wore
+quite a pleasing expression, when lighted up with smiles at the sight
+of the beads and looking-glasses. The bottom of their canoe was
+covered with branches, amongst which the ashes of a recent fire were
+distinguishable. Their paddles were of the very roughest description,
+consisting simply of split branches of trees, with wider pieces tied
+on at one end with the sinews of birds or beasts.
+
+Steaming ahead, past Port Gallant, we had a glorious view over Carlos
+III. Island and Thornton Peaks, until, at about seven o clock, we
+anchored in the little harbour of Borja Bay. This place is encircled
+by luxuriant vegetation, overhanging the water, and is set like a gem
+amid the granite rocks close at hand, and the far-distant snowy
+mountains.
+
+[Illustration: Thornton Peaks]
+
+Our carpenter had prepared a board, on which the name of the yacht and
+the date had been painted, to be fixed on shore, as a record of our
+visit; and as soon as the anchor was down we all landed, the gentlemen
+with their guns, and the crew fully armed with pistols and rifles, in
+case of accident. The water was quite deep close to the shore, and we
+had no difficulty in landing, near a small waterfall. To penetrate far
+inland, however, was not so easy, owing to the denseness of the
+vegetation. Large trees had fallen, and, rotting where they lay, under
+the influence of the humid atmosphere, had become the birthplace of
+thousands of other trees, shrubs, plants, ferns, mosses, and lichens.
+In fact, in some places we might almost be said to be walking on the
+tops of the trees, and first one and then another of the party found
+his feet suddenly slipping through into unknown depths below. Under
+these circumstances we were contented with a very short ramble, and
+having filled our baskets with a varied collection of mosses and
+ferns, we returned to the shore, where we found many curious shells
+and some excellent mussels. While we had been thus engaged, the
+carpenter and some of the crew were employed in nailing up our board
+on a tree we had selected for the purpose. It was in company with the
+names of many good ships, a portion of which only were still legible,
+many of the boards having fallen to the ground and become quite
+rotten.
+
+Near the beach we found the remains of a recent fire, and in the
+course of the night the watch on deck, which was doubled and
+well-armed, heard shouts and hoots proceeding from the neighbourhood
+of the shore. Towards morning, too, the fire was relighted, from which
+it was evident that the natives were not far off, though they did not
+actually put in an appearance. I suppose they think there is a
+probability of making something out of us by fair means, and that,
+unlike a sealing schooner, with only four or five hands on board, and
+no motive power but her sails, we are rather too formidable to attack.
+
+_Monday, October 9th_.--We are indeed most fortunate in having another
+fine day. At 6 a.m. the anchor was weighed, and we resumed our
+journey. It was very cold; but that was not to be wondered at,
+surrounded as we are on every side by magnificent snow-clad mountains
+and superb glaciers. First we passed Snowy Sound, in Tierra del Fuego,
+at the head of which is an immense blue glacier. Then came Cape Notch,
+so called from its looking as if it had had a piece chopped out of it.
+Within a few yards of the surrounding glaciers, and close to the sea,
+the vegetation is abundant, and in many places semi-tropical, a fact
+which is due to the comparatively mild winters, the temperate summers,
+the moist climate, and the rich soil of these parts. Passing up
+English Reach, we now caught our first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean,
+between Cape Pillar on one side, and Westminster Hall, Shell Bay, and
+Lecky Point, on the other. Steering to the north, and leaving these on
+our left hand, we issued from the Straits of Magellan, and entered
+Smyth's Channel, first passing Glacier Bay and Ice Sound, names which
+speak for themselves. Mount Joy, Mount Burney, with its round
+snow-covered summit, rising six thousand feet from the water, and
+several unnamed peaks, were gradually left behind; until, at last,
+after threading a labyrinth of small islands, we anchored for the
+night in Otter Bay, a snug little cove, at the entrance to the
+intricacies of the Mayne Channel.
+
+[Illustration: Glaciers. Snowy Sound.]
+
+It was almost dark when we arrived, but the children, Captain Brown,
+and I, went on shore for a short time, and gathered a few ferns and
+mosses. We also found the embers of a fire, which showed that the
+natives were not far off, and we therefore thought it prudent to hurry
+on board again before nightfall. No names of ships were to be seen;
+but, in our search for ferns, we may possibly have overlooked them. We
+have not come across any Fuegians to-day, though in two of the places
+we have passed--Shell Bay and Deep Harbour, where a few wigwams are
+left standing as a sort of head-quarters--they are generally to be met
+with. During the night the watch again heard the natives shouting; but
+no attempt was made to re-light the fire we had noticed, until we were
+steaming out of the bay the next morning.
+
+_Tuesday, October 10th_.--In the early morning, when we resumed our
+voyage, the weather was still fine; but a few light clouds were here
+and there visible, and an icy wind, sweeping down from the mountains,
+made it appear very cold, though the thermometer--which averages, I
+think, 40 deg. to 50 deg. all the year round--was not really low. The line of
+perpetual snow commences here at an elevation of from 2,500 to 3,500
+feet only, which adds greatly to the beauty of the scene; and as it is
+now early spring the snow is still unmelted, 500 feet, and even less,
+from the shore. The stupendous glaciers run right down into the sea,
+and immense masses of ice, sometimes larger than a ship, are
+continually breaking off, with a noise like thunder, and falling into
+the water, sending huge waves across to the opposite shore, and
+sometimes completely blocking up the channels. Some of these glaciers,
+composed entirely of blue and green ice and the purest snow, are
+fifteen and twenty miles in length. They are by far the finest we
+have, any of us, ever seen; and even those of Norway and Switzerland
+sink into comparative insignificance beside them. The mountains here
+are not so high as those of Europe, but they really appear more lofty,
+as their entire surface, from the water's edge to the extreme summit,
+is clearly visible. At this end of the Straits they terminate in
+peaks, resembling Gothic spires, carved in the purest snow; truly
+'virgin peaks,' on which the eye of man has but seldom rested, and
+which his foot has never touched. They are generally veiled in clouds
+of snow, mist, and driving rain, and it is quite the exception to see
+them as distinctly as we now do.
+
+After leaving Mayne's Channel, and passing through Union and
+Collingwood Sounds, we found ourselves beneath the shadow of the
+splendid Cordilleras of Sarmiento--quite distinct from Mount
+Sarmiento, already referred to--along the foot of which extended the
+largest glacier we have yet seen.[5] With Tarleton Pass on our right
+hand, and Childer's Pass on the left, we came in sight of Owen's
+Island, one extremity of which is called Mayne Head, and the other
+Cape Brassey, these places having all been so named by Captain Mayne,
+during his survey in the 'Nassau,' in 1869. Near the island of
+Esperanza, the clouds having by that time completely cleared away, and
+the sun shining brightly, we had a splendid view of another range of
+snowy mountains, with Stoke's Monument towering high in their midst.
+The numerous floating icebergs added greatly to the exquisite beauty
+of the scene. Some loomed high as mountains, while others had melted
+into the most fanciful and fairy-like shapes--huge swans, full-rigged
+ships, schooners under full sail, and a hundred other fantastic forms
+and devices. The children were in ecstasies at the sight of them.
+
+[Footnote 5: I should explain that the names of places in these
+Straits frequently occur in duplicate, and even triplicate, which is
+rather confusing.]
+
+As we gradually opened out our anchorage--Puerto Bueno--we found a
+steamer already lying there, which proved to be the 'Dacia,' telegraph
+ship, just in from the Pacific coast. Having dropped our anchor at
+about 5 p.m., we all went on shore, armed as before, some of the
+gentlemen hoping to find a stray duck or two, at a fresh-water lake,
+a little way inland. We met several of the officers of the 'Dacia,'
+who, being the first comers, did the honours of the place, and told us
+all they knew about it. The vegetation was as luxuriant and beautiful
+as usual--in fact, rather more so; for we are now advancing northwards
+at the rate of about a hundred miles a day. There were no ducks in the
+lake, but we enjoyed the scramble alongside it, to the point where it
+falls over some rocks into the sea. The gig was drawn under this
+waterfall, and having been loaded to her thwarts, with about three
+tons and a half of excellent water, she was then towed off to the
+yacht, where the water was emptied into our tanks, which were thus
+filled to the brim. A small iceberg, also towed alongside, afforded us
+a supply of ice; and we were thus cheaply provided with a portion of
+the requisite supplies for our voyage. The 'Dacia' had an iceberg half
+as big as herself lying alongside her, and all hands were at work
+until late at night, aided by the light of lanterns and torches,
+chopping the ice up and stowing it away.
+
+Our boat being thus engaged, we were obliged to wait on shore until
+long past dark; but as we were a large and strong party, it did not
+much matter. Our men amused themselves by collecting a number of large
+and excellent mussels, some of which, distinguishable by the peculiar
+appearance of their shells, arising from a diseased condition of the
+fish, contained from ten to thirty very small seed pearls. The captain
+of the 'Dacia' came to dinner, and the officers in the evening; and
+they gave us much valuable information about the anchorages further up
+the Straits, and many other things. The captain kindly gave Tom all
+his Chilian charts of the Darien Channel, which has not yet been fully
+surveyed by the English Government, though the 'Nassau' passed through
+in 1869.
+
+_Wednesday, October 11th_.--I never in my life saw anything so
+beautiful as the view when I came on deck this morning, at a quarter
+to five. The moon was shining, large and golden, high in the heavens;
+the rosy streaks of dawn were just tinging the virgin snow on the
+highest peaks with faint but ever-deepening colour; whilst all around,
+the foliage, rocks, and icebergs were still wrapped in the deepest
+shade. As the sun rose, the pink summits of the mountains changed to
+gold and yellow, and then to dazzling white, as the light crept down
+into the valleys, illuminating all the dark places, and bringing out
+the shades of olive-greens, greys, and purples, in the most wonderful
+contrasts and combinations of colour. The grandeur of the scene
+increased with every revolution of the screw, and when fairly in the
+Guia narrows we were able to stop and admire it a little more at our
+leisure, Mr. Bingham making some sketches, while I took some
+photographs. To describe the prospect in detail is quite impossible.
+Imagine the grandest Alpine scene you ever saw, with tall snowy peaks
+and pinnacles rising from huge domed tops, and vast fields of unbroken
+snow; glaciers, running down _into_ the sea, at the heads of the
+various bays; each bank and promontory richly clothed with vegetation
+of every shade of green; bold rocks and noble cliffs, covered with
+many-hued lichens; the floating icebergs; the narrow channel itself,
+blue as the sky above, dotted with small islands, each a mass of
+verdure, and reflecting on its glassy surface every object with such
+distinctness that it was difficult to say where the reality ended and
+the image began. I have seen a photograph of the Mirror Lake, in
+California, which, as far as I know, is the only thing that could
+possibly give one an idea of the marvellous effect of these
+reflections. Unfit Bay, on Chatham Island, looking towards the
+mountains near Pill Channel, and Ladder Hill, which looks as if a
+flight of steps had been cut upon its face, were perhaps two of the
+most striking points amid all this loveliness.
+
+All too soon came the inevitable order to steam ahead; and once more
+resuming our course, we passed through Innocents and Conception
+Channels, and entered Wide Channel, which is frequently blocked up
+with ice at this time of year, though to-day we only met with a few
+icebergs on their way down from Eyre Sound.
+
+[Illustration: Unfit Bay]
+
+I have already referred to the extraordinary shapes assumed by some of
+the mountain peaks. That appropriately called Singular Peak--on
+Chatham Island--and Two-peak Mountain and Cathedral Mountain--both on
+Wellington Island--specially attracted our attention to-day. The
+first-named presents a wonderful appearance, from whichever side you
+view it; the second reminds one of the beautiful double spires at
+Tours; while the last resembles the tapering spire of a cathedral,
+rising from a long roof, covered with delicate towers, fret-work, and
+angles. In Wide Channel we felt really compelled to stop again to
+admire some of the unnamed mountains. One we christened Spire
+Mountain, to distinguish it from the rest; it consisted of a single
+needle-like point, piercing deep into the blue vault of heaven, and
+surrounded by a cluster of less lofty but equally sharp pinnacles.
+This group rose from a vast chain of exquisitely tinted snow-peaks,
+that looked almost as if they rested on the vast glacier beneath,
+seamed with dark blue and green crevasses and fissures.
+
+[Illustration: Two-peaked Mountain.]
+
+All this time the weather continued perfect. Not a cloud was to be
+seen, the sun was hot and bright, and the sky was blue enough to rival
+that of classic Italy. If we could but be sure that this delightful
+state of things would continue, how pleasant it would be, to stop and
+explore some of these places. We have, however, been so frequently
+warned of the possibility of detention for days and even weeks at
+anchor, owing to bad weather, that we are hurrying on as fast as we
+can, expecting that every day will bring the much-dreaded deluge,
+gale, or fog. In thick weather it is simply impossible to proceed; and
+if it comes on suddenly, as it generally does, and finds you far from
+an anchorage, there is nothing to be done but to heave-to and wait
+till it clears, sending a party ashore if possible to light a fire, to
+serve as a landmark, and so enable you to maintain your position. How
+thankful I am that we have been hitherto able to make the passage
+under such favourable circumstances! It has been a vision of beauty
+and variety, the recollection of which can never be effaced.
+
+Europe Inlet, on our right, going up Wide Channel, was full of ice.
+Husband's Inlet looked as if it was frozen over at the farther end,
+and Penguin Inlet seemed quite choked up with huge hummocks and blocks
+of ice. Tom therefore decided not to attempt the passage of Icy Reach,
+for fear of being stopped, but to go round Saumarez Island to Port
+Grappler by way of Chasm Reach, rather a longer route. It was a happy
+decision; for nothing could exceed the weird impressive splendour of
+this portion of the Straits. We were passing through a deep gloomy
+mountain gorge, with high perpendicular cliffs on either side. Below,
+all was wrapped in the deepest shade. Far above, the sun gilded the
+snowy peaks and many-tinted foliage with his departing light, that
+slowly turned to rose-colour ere the shades of evening crept over all,
+and the stars began to peep out, one by one. We could trace from the
+summit to the base of a lofty mountain the course of a stupendous
+avalanche, which had recently rushed down into the sea, crushing and
+destroying everything in its way, and leaving a broad track of
+desolation behind it. It must for a time have completely filled up the
+narrow channel; and woe to any unfortunate vessel that might happen to
+be there at such a moment!
+
+Port Grappler is rather a difficult place to make in the dark; but
+Tom managed it with much dexterity, and by eight o'clock we were
+safely anchored for the night. We all wanted Tom to stay here
+to-morrow to get some rest, which he much needs, but he has determined
+to start at five o'clock in the morning as usual, for fear of being
+caught by bad weather. Even I, who have of course had no anxiety as to
+the navigation, felt so fatigued from having been on the bridge the
+whole day since very early this morning, that I went straight to bed
+before dinner, in order to be ready for to-morrow.
+
+[Illustration: Indian Reach]
+
+_Thursday, October 12th_.--A day as perfect as yesterday succeeded a
+clear cold night. We weighed anchor at 5.15 a.m., and, retracing our
+course for a few miles, passed round the end of Saumarez Island, and
+entered the narrow channel leading to Indian Reach. The greatest care
+is here necessary, to avoid several sunken rocks, which have already
+proved fatal to many ships, a large German steamer having been wrecked
+as recently as last year. The smooth but treacherous surface of the
+channel reflected sharply the cliffs and foliage, and its mirror-like
+stillness was only broken at rare intervals, by the sudden appearance
+of a seal in search of a fresh supply of air, or by the efforts,
+delayed until the very last moment, of a few steamer-ducks, gannets,
+or cormorants, to get out of our way.
+
+Having accomplished the passage of Indian Reach in safety, we were
+just passing Eden Harbour, when the cry of 'Canoe ahead!' was raised.
+A boat was seen paddling out towards us from behind Moreton Island,
+containing about half-a-dozen people, apparently armed with bows and
+arrows and spears, and provided with fishing-rods, which projected on
+either side. One man was standing up and waving, in a very excited
+manner, something which turned out ultimately to be a piece of
+cotton-waste. Our engines having been stopped, the canoe came
+alongside, and we beheld six wild-looking half-naked creatures--two
+men, three women, and a very small boy, who was crouching over a fire
+at the bottom of the boat. There were also four sharp, cheery-looking
+little dogs, rather like Esquimaux dogs, only smaller, with prick ears
+and curly tails, who were looking over the side and barking vigorously
+in response to the salutations of our pugs. One man had on a square
+robe of sea-otter skins, thrown over his shoulders, and laced together
+in front, two of the women wore sheepskins, and the rest of the party
+were absolutely naked. Their black hair was long and shaggy, and they
+all clamoured loudly in harsh guttural tones, accompanied by violent
+gesticulations, for 'tabaco' and 'galleta.' We got some ready for
+them, and also some beads, knives, and looking-glasses, but through
+some mistake they did not manage to get hold of our rope in time, and
+as our way carried us ahead they were left behind. The passage was
+narrow, and the current strong, and Tom was anxious to save the tide
+in the dangerous English Narrows. We could not, therefore, give them
+another chance of communicating with us, and accordingly we went on
+our way, followed by what were, I have no doubt, the curses--not only
+deep, but loud--of the whole party, who indulged at the same time in
+the most furious and threatening gestures. I was quite sorry for their
+disappointment at losing their hoped-for luxuries, to say nothing of
+our own at missing the opportunity of bargaining for some more furs
+and curiosities.
+
+Shortly afterwards there were seen from the masthead crowds of natives
+among the trees armed with long spears, bows, and arrows, busily
+engaged pushing off their canoes from their hiding-places in creeks
+and hollows; so perhaps it was just as well we did not stop, or we
+might have been surrounded. Not far from here are the English Narrows,
+a passage which is a ticklish but interesting piece of navigation. A
+strong current prevails, and, to avoid a shoal, it is necessary at one
+point to steer so close to the western shore that the bowsprit almost
+projects over the land, the branches of the trees almost sweep the
+rigging, and the rocks almost scrape the side of the vessel. Two men
+were placed at the wheel, as a matter of precaution, and we appeared
+to be steering straight for the shore, at full speed, till Tom
+suddenly gave the order 'Hard a-port!' and the 'Sunbeam' instantly
+flew round and rushed swiftly past the dangerous spot into wider
+waters. It is just here that Captain Trivett was knocked off the
+bridge of his vessel by the boughs--a mishap he warned Tom against
+before we left England.
+
+Whilst in the Narrows we looked back, to see everything bright and
+cheerful, but ahead all was black and dismal: the sky and sun were
+obscured, the tops of the mountains hidden, and the valleys filled up
+with thick fog and clouds--all which seemed to indicate the approach
+of a storm of rain, although the glass was still very high. We went up
+South Reach and North Reach, in the Messier Channel, till, just as we
+were off Liberta Bay, in lat. 48 deg. 50' S., long. 74 deg. 25' W., the
+blackest of the black clouds came suddenly down upon us, and descended
+upon the deck in a tremendous shower--not of rain, but of _dust_ and
+_ashes_. Windows, hatches, and doors were shut as soon as we
+discovered the nature of this strange visitation, and in about half
+an hour we were through the worst of it: whereupon dustpans, brooms,
+and dusters came into great requisition. It took us completely by
+surprise, for we had no reason to expect anything of the sort.
+Assuming the dust to be of volcanic origin, it must have travelled an
+immense distance; the nearest volcano, as far as we know, being that
+of Corcovado, in the island of Chiloe, nearly 300 miles off. We had
+heard from Sir Woodbine Parish, and others at Buenos Ayres, of the
+terrible blinding dust-storms which occur _there_, causing utter
+darkness for a space of ten or fifteen minutes; but Buenos Ayres is on
+the edge of a river, with hundreds and thousands of leagues of sandy
+plains behind it, the soil of which is only kept together by the roots
+of the wiry pampas grass. For this dust to reach the Messier Channel,
+where we now are, it would have to surmount two chains of snowy
+mountains, six or seven thousand feet in height, and in many places
+hundreds of miles in width, and traverse a vast extent of country
+besides.
+
+The weather was still so fine, and the barometer so high--30.52
+inches--that Tom determined to go to sea to-day, instead of stopping
+at Hale Cove for the night, as we had originally intended. Directly we
+got through the English Narrows, therefore, all hands were busily
+engaged in once more sending up the square-yards, top-masts, &c., and
+in making ready for sea. Just before sunset, as we were quitting the
+narrow channels, the sun pierced through the clouds and lightened up
+the lonely landscape as well as the broad waters of the Pacific Ocean.
+Its surface was scarcely rippled by the gentle breeze that wafted us
+on our course; the light of the setting sun rested, in soft and varied
+tints, on the fast-fading mountains and peaks; and thus, under the
+most favourable and encouraging circumstances, we have fairly entered
+upon a new and important section of our long voyage.
+
+Although perhaps I ought not to say so, I cannot help admiring the
+manner in which Tom has piloted his yacht through the Straits, for it
+would do credit, not only to any amateur, but to a professional
+seaman. He has never hesitated or been at a loss for a moment, however
+intricate the part or complicated the directions; but having
+thoroughly studied and mastered the subject beforehand, he has been
+able to go steadily on at full speed the whole way. It has, however,
+been very fatiguing work for him, as he hardly ever left the bridge
+whilst we were under way.
+
+We steamed the whole distance from Cape Virgins to the Gulf of Penas,
+659 knots, in 76 hours, anchoring six times. This gives seven days'
+steaming, of an average length of eleven hours each; and as we stopped
+two or three hours, at different times, for Fuegians, photographs, and
+sketches, our average speed was nine and a half knots, though
+sometimes, when going with strong currents, it was twelve or fourteen,
+and, when going against them, barely six knots.
+
+Just at dark, we passed between Wager Island and Cheape Channel, where
+H.M.S. 'Wager,' commanded by Captain Cheape, was wrecked, and we spent
+the night in the Gulf of Penas, almost becalmed.
+
+_Friday, October 13th_.--We ceased steaming at 7.30 a.m., and made
+every effort throughout the rest of the day, by endless changes of
+sail, to catch each fleeting breath of wind. We did not, however, make
+much progress, owing to the extreme lightness of the breeze.
+
+Sorry as we are to lose the scenery of the Straits, it is pleasant to
+find the weather getting gradually warmer, day by day, and to be able
+to regard the morning bath once more as a luxury instead of a terror.
+The change is also thoroughly appreciated by the various animals we
+have on board, especially the monkeys and parrots, who may now be seen
+sunning themselves in every warm corner of the deck. In the Straits,
+though the sun was hot, there was always an icy feeling in the wind,
+owing to the presence of enormous masses of snow and ice on every
+side.
+
+_Saturday, October 14th_.--Light winds and calms prevailed the whole
+day. About 2 p.m. we were off the island of Socorro. In the afternoon
+a large shoal of whales came round the yacht. I was below when they
+first made their appearance, and when I came on deck they were
+spouting up great jets of water in all directions, suggestive of the
+fountains at the Crystal Palace. We were lying so still that they did
+not seem to be in the least afraid of us, and came quite close,
+swimming alongside, round us, across our bows, and even diving down
+under our keel. There was a shoal of small fish about, and the whales,
+most of which were about fifty or sixty feet in length, constantly
+opened their huge pink whalebone-fringed mouths so wide that we could
+see right down their capacious throats. The children were especially
+delighted with this performance, and baby has learned quite a new
+trick. When asked, 'What do the whales do?' she opens her mouth as
+wide as she can, stretches out her arms to their fullest extent, then
+blows, and finishes up with a look round for applause.
+
+Soon after 8 p.m. the wind completely died away, and, fearing further
+detention, we once more got up steam.
+
+_Sunday, October 15th_.--Still calm. We had the litany and hymns at 11
+a.m.; prayers and hymns and a sermon at 5 p.m. In the course of the
+afternoon we were again surrounded by a shoal of whales. We passed the
+island of Chiloe to-day, where it always rains, and where the
+vegetation is proportionately dense and luxuriant. It is inhabited by
+a tribe of peculiarly gentle Indians, who till the ground, and who are
+said to be kind to strangers thrown amongst them. Darwin and Byron
+speak well of the island and its inhabitants, who are probably more
+civilised since their time, for a steamer now runs regularly once a
+week from Valparaiso to San Carlos and back for garden produce. The
+potato is indigenous to the island.
+
+[Illustration: Catching Cape Pigeons in the Gulf of Penas]
+
+_Tuesday, October 17th_.--At 6 a.m., there being still no wind, Tom,
+in despair of ever reaching our destination under sail alone, again
+ordered steam to be raised. Two hours later a nice sailing breeze
+sprang up; but we had been so often disappointed that we determined to
+continue steaming. Just before sunset we saw the island of Mocha in
+the distance. It is said to have been inhabited at one time by herds
+of wild horses and hogs, but I think they have now become extinct.
+
+One of our principal amusements during the calm weather has been to
+fish for cape-pigeons, cape-hens, gulls, and albatrosses, with a hook
+and line. We have caught a good many in this way, and several
+entangled themselves in the threads left floating for the purpose over
+the stern. The cape-pigeons were so tame that they came almost on
+board, and numbers of them were caught in butterfly-nets. Their
+plumage is not unlike grebe, and I mean to have some muffs and
+trimmings for the children made out of it. Allen, the coxswain of the
+gig, skins them very well, having had some lessons from Ward before we
+left England. I want very much to catch an albatross, in order to have
+it skinned, and to make tobacco-pouches of its feet and pipe-stems of
+the wing-bones, for presents.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+CHILI.
+
+    _Sunbeam of summer, oh what is like thee,_
+    _Hope of the wilderness, joy of the sea._
+
+
+_Wednesday, October 18th_.--At 3.30 a.m. we were close to the land
+lying south of the Bay of Lota; at 4 a.m. the engines were stopped on
+account of the mist; and at 6 a.m. we began to go slowly ahead again,
+though it was still not very easy to make out the distance and bearing
+of the coast. The passage into the bay, between the island of Santa
+Maria and Lavapie Point, is narrow and difficult, and abounds with
+sunken rocks and other hidden dangers, not yet fully surveyed. Tom
+said it was the most arduous piece of navigation he ever undertook on
+a misty morning; but happily he accomplished it successfully. Just as
+he entered the sun broke through the mist, displaying a beautiful bay,
+surrounded on three sides by well-wooded hills, and sheltered from all
+winds except the north. One corner is completely occupied by the huge
+establishment belonging to Madame Cousino, consisting of coal-mines,
+enormous smelting-works, and extensive potteries. The hill just at the
+back is completely bare of vegetation, which has all been poisoned by
+the sulphurous vapours from the furnaces. This spot, from its
+contiguity to the works, has been selected as the site of a village
+for the accommodation of the numerous labourers and their families. It
+is therefore to be hoped that sulphur fumes are not as injurious to
+animal as they evidently are to vegetable life. As we drew nearer to
+the shore we could distinguish Madame Cousino's house, in the midst of
+a park on the summit of a hill, and surrounded on all sides by
+beautiful gardens. Every prominent point had a little summer-house
+perched upon it, and some of the trees had circular seats built round
+their trunks half-way up, approached by spiral staircases, and
+thatched like wigwams. The general aspect of the coast, which is a
+combination of rich red earth, granite cliffs, and trees to the
+water's edge, is very like that of Cornwall and Devonshire.
+
+We had scarcely dropped our anchor before the captain of the port came
+on board, and told us we were too far from the shore to coal, which
+was our special object in coming here; so up went the anchor again,
+and we steamed a few hundred yards further in, and then let go close
+to the shore, in deep water. Captain Moeller waited to go ashore with
+us, introduced our steward to the butcher and postmaster of the place,
+and then accompanied us to Madame Cousino's gardens.
+
+It was a steep climb up the hill, but we were well rewarded for our
+labour. Tended by over a hundred men, whose efforts are directed by
+highly paid and thoroughly experienced Scotch gardeners, these grounds
+contain a collection of plants from all the four quarters of the
+globe, and from New Zealand, Polynesia, and Australia. Amid them were
+scattered all kinds of fantastic grottoes, fountains, statues, and
+ferneries; flights of steps, leading downwards to the beach, and
+upwards to sylvan nooks; arcades, arched over with bamboos, and
+containing trellis-work from Derbyshire, and Minton tiles from
+Staffordshire; seats of all sorts and shapes, _under_ trees, _in_
+trees, and _over_ trees; besides summer-houses and pagodas, at every
+corner where there was a pretty view over land or sea.
+
+One of the heads of the establishment, a great friend of Madame
+Cousino's, was unfortunately very ill, and as she was nursing him, she
+could not come out to see us; but she kindly gave orders to her
+gardener to send some cut flowers and some ferns on board the yacht,
+to decorate the saloon; and as she was unable to invite us to luncheon
+at the big house, she sent some champagne and refreshments down to the
+Casa de la Administracion, where we were most hospitably entertained.
+She has had the latter place comfortably fitted up for the use of the
+principal employes on the works, and has provided it with a
+billiard-table, a very fair library, and several spare bed-rooms for
+the accommodation of visitors.
+
+After luncheon we went to see the copper-smelting works, which were
+very interesting. The manager walked through with us, and explained
+the processes very clearly. He could tell at once, on taking up a
+piece of rough ore, fresh from the mine, what percentage of copper or
+iron it contained, the amount varying from ten to seventy-five per
+cent, of the gross weight. The furnaces are kept burning night and
+day, and are worked by three gangs of men; and the quantity of copper
+produced annually is enormous. In fact, three parts of the copper used
+in Europe comes from here. The ore is brought from various parts of
+Chili and Peru, generally in Madame Cousino's ships; and coal is found
+in such abundance, and so near the surface, that the operation of
+smelting is a profitable one. Our afternoon, spent amid smoke, and
+heat, and dirt, and half-naked workmen, manipulating with dexterous
+skill the glowing streams of molten ore, was a great contrast to our
+morning ramble.
+
+Having seen the works, and received a curious and interesting
+collection of copper ore, as a remembrance of our visit, we started in
+a little car, lined with crimson cloth, and drawn by a locomotive, to
+visit the various coal-mines. First we went through the park, and then
+along a valley near the sea, full of wild flowers and ferns, and trees
+festooned with 'copigue,' the Chilian name for a creeper which is a
+speciality of this country, and which imparts a character of its own
+to the landscape during the month of May, when its wreaths of
+scarlet, cherry, or pink flowers are in full bloom. We went to the
+mouths of three coal-pits, and looked down into their grimy depths,
+but did not descend, as it would have occupied too much time. They are
+mostly about 1,000 yards in depth, and extend for some distance under
+the sea.
+
+We next visited a point of land whence we could see an island which
+closely resembles St. Michael's Mount. It is quite uninhabited, except
+by a few wild goats and rabbits. The sea-shore is lined with trees to
+the water's edge, and there are many bold rocks and fine white sandy
+caves in different parts of it. Some boats were drawn up high and dry
+on the beach, along which several picturesque-looking groups of
+shell-fish collectors were scattered. The mussels that are found here
+are enormous--from five to eight inches in length--and they, together
+with cockles and limpets, form a staple article of food.
+
+A steam-launch had been sent to meet us, but it could not get near
+enough to the shore for us to embark. A rickety, leaky small boat,
+half full of water, was therefore, after some delay, procured, and in
+this we were sculled out, two by two, till the whole party were safely
+on board. Outside there was quite a swell, and a north wind and rain
+are prophesied for to-morrow. Mr. Mackay returned with us to the
+yacht, and stayed to dinner. Before he left, the prognostications of
+bad weather were to some extent justified; for the wind changed, and
+rain, the first we have felt for some time, began to fall.
+
+_Thursday, October 19th_.--We have been persuaded by our friends here
+to try and see a little more of the interior of Chili than we should
+do if we were to carry out our original intention of going on to
+Valparaiso in the yacht, and then merely making an excursion to
+Santiago from that place. We have therefore arranged to proceed at
+once overland to Santiago, by a route which will enable us to see
+something of the Cordillera of the Andes, to have a peep at the
+Araucanian Indians on the frontier, and to visit the baths of
+Cauquenes. Tom, however, does not like to leave the yacht, and has
+decided to take her up to Valparaiso, and then come on to Santiago and
+meet us, in about five or six days' time. The anchor was accordingly
+hove short, and the mizen hoisted, when we landed this morning, in a
+drenching rain.
+
+A coach runs daily from Lota to Concepcion, the first stage of our
+journey, but a special vehicle was engaged for our accommodation, and
+a curious affair it was to look at. It seemed to be simply a huge
+wooden box, suspended, by means of thick leather straps, from C
+springs, without windows or doors, but provided with two long, narrow
+openings, through which you squeezed yourself in or out, and which
+could be closed at pleasure by roll-up leather blinds. Inside, it was
+roomy, well-padded, and comfortable.
+
+The rain had made the road terribly greasy, and several times the
+carriage slewed half-way round and slid four or five feet sideways
+down the hill, causing us to hold on, in expectation of a spill. At
+last we reached the bottom in safety, and, crossing a small river,
+emerged upon the sea-shore at Playa Negra, or Black Beach, along which
+we drove for some distance through the deep, loose sand, the horses
+being up to their fetlocks in water most of the time. Then we forded
+another little river, and, leaving the beach, proceeded up a steep
+road, not more than three yards wide, with a ditch on one side and a
+steep precipice on the other, to the little village of Coronel,
+overlooking the bay of the same name. While the horses were being
+changed, we walked down to the little wooden pier, on the sea-shore,
+and saw the 'Sunbeam' just coming out of Lota Bay.
+
+Drawn up by the side of the pier was a picturesque-looking
+market-boat, full of many sorts of vegetables, and little piles of
+sea-eggs, with their spines removed, and neatly tied up with rushes in
+parcels of three. The people seemed to enjoy them raw, in which state
+they are considered to be most nutritious; and when roasted in their
+shells, or made into omelettes, they are a favourite article of food
+with all classes. Coronel is a great coaling station, and the bay,
+which is surrounded by tall chimneys, shafts, and piers, connected
+with the mines, was full of steamers and colliers.
+
+Our road now ran for some time through undulating pasture-land, in
+which were many large trees, the scene resembling a vast park. Masses
+of scarlet verbena, yellow calceolaria, and white heath, grew on all
+sides, while the numerous myrtle, mimosa, and other bushes, were
+entwined with orange-coloured nasturtiums, and a little scarlet
+tropaeolum, with a blue edge, whose name I forget. Beneath the trees
+the ground was thickly carpeted with adiantum fern. The road over
+which we travelled was of the worst description, and our luncheon was
+eaten with no small difficulty, but with a considerable amount of
+merriment. Once, when we jolted into an unusually big hole, the whole
+of our provisions, basket and all, made a sudden plunge towards one
+side of the coach, and very nearly escaped us altogether.
+
+Half-way between Coronel and Concepcion, we met the return
+stage-coach, crowded with passengers, and looking as if it had just
+come out of the South Kensington Museum or Madame Tussaud's, or like
+the pictures of a coach of Queen Elizabeth's time. It was a long low
+vehicle, with unglazed windows all round it, painted bright scarlet
+decorated with brilliant devices on every panel, and suspended, like
+our own, by means of innumerable leather straps, from huge C springs.
+The seats on either side held three passengers, and there was a stool
+in the middle, like the one in the Lord Mayor's coach, on which four
+people sat, back to bask.
+
+Soon after we drew up to rest the horses at a little posada, kept by
+two Germans, called 'Half-way House,' and seven miles more brought us
+to a rich and well-cultivated farm belonging to Mr. Hermann, where we
+stopped to change horses.
+
+It was six o'clock in the evening when we reached the Bio-Bio, a wide
+shallow river, at the entrance of the town of Concepcion; it had to be
+crossed in a ferry-boat, carriage and all, and as it was after hours,
+we had some difficulty in finding any one to take us over. At last, in
+consideration of a little extra pay, six men consented to undertake
+the job, and having set a square-sail, to keep us from being carried
+down the river by the current, they punted us over with long poles.
+Sometimes there was nine feet of water beneath us, but oftener not
+more than four or five. The boat could not get close to the opposite
+shore, and it was a great business to get the carriage out and the
+horses harnessed, in some eighteen inches of water. First the carriage
+stuck in the sand, and then the horses refused to move, but after a
+great deal of splashing, and an immense display of energy in the way
+of pulling, jerking, shrieking, shouting--and, I am afraid,
+swearing--we reached the bank, emerged from the water, struggled
+through some boggy ground, and were taken at full gallop through the
+streets of the town, until we reached the Hotel Comercio, where we
+found comfortable rooms and a nice little dinner awaiting us.
+
+This was all very well, as far as it went, but when we came to inquire
+about our onward route we were disappointed to learn that the line to
+Angol was closed, owing to the breaking down of a bridge, and would
+remain so until next month, and that, with the exception of a
+contractor's train, which runs only once a week, there was nothing by
+which we could travel. 'To-morrow is Friday,' added Monsieur
+Letellier, 'and that is so near Monday, what can Madame do better than
+wait here till then?' By way of consolation, he informed us that there
+were no Indians now at Angol, as the Araucanian [6] Indians had
+recently all been driven further back from the frontier by the
+Chilenos, but that, if we were still bent on trying to get there, we
+could go by boat as far as Nacimiento, where we might, with some
+difficulty, procure a carriage. The river just now, however, is so
+low, that the boat frequently gets aground, and remains for two or
+three days; therefore, taking everything into consideration, we have
+decided to abandon this part of our programme, for otherwise we shall
+not reach Santiago in time. In any case, the journey will be a much
+longer one than we expected.
+
+[Footnote 6: I have lately received a letter from a friend in Paris,
+who says: 'Strange to tell, it is only a few days ago that poor Orelie
+Antoine I., ex-King of Araucania, died at Bordeaux, in a hospital. He
+reigned for some years, and then made war upon Chili, which gave him a
+warm reception; even captured his Majesty and sent him back to his
+native land. I met him here a few years ago, surrounded by a small
+court, which treated him with great deference. I found him a
+dignified, intelligent sovereign. He attempted to return to his
+kingdom, but was captured on the high seas by a Brazilian cruiser, and
+sent back to France to die a miserable death.]
+
+_Friday, October 20th_.--We went out for a short stroll round the
+Plaza before breakfast, which meal was scarcely over when Mr. Mackay
+arrived in a carriage, and took us off to see what there was to see in
+the town. The Plaza was full of bright-looking flower-beds, in which
+were superb roses, and many English flowers, shaded by oranges,
+pomegranates, and deutzias. Each plot belongs to one of the principal
+families in the town, and great emulation is displayed as to whose
+little garden shall be in the best order and contain the finest
+collection of plants and flowers.
+
+Concepcion has suffered, and still suffers, much from earthquakes. The
+existing town is only thirty-five years old. The houses are all one
+story high only, and the streets, or rather roads, between them are
+wide, in order to afford the inhabitants a chance of escape, should
+their dwellings be thrown down by a sudden shock. In summer everybody
+rushes out into the street, no matter what hour of the day or night it
+may be, as soon as the first symptoms of an earthquake are felt; but
+during the winter, when the shocks are never so severe, the alarm
+caused is not so great. The old town was about two miles distant from
+the present site, near a place now called Penco, but after being
+demolished in the ordinary way, an immense wave rolled up and
+completely destroyed all traces of its existence.
+
+We drove out to Puchacai, Mr. Mackay's hacienda, a pretty little
+thatched cottage, surrounded by a verandah, in the midst of a garden,
+where laburnums and lilacs bloom side by side with orange-trees and
+pomegranates. Round the garden are groves of shady English oaks (the
+first we have seen since leaving home) and Norfolk Island pines, the
+effect of the whole scene being strangely suggestive of the idea that
+a charming little bit of English rural scenery has in some mysterious
+manner been transported to this out-of-the-way spot in Chili. The
+interior of the house, which is simply but tastefully furnished, and
+at the time of our visit was full of fresh flowers, arranged with an
+artistic eye to colour, bears the same indescribable _homelike_ air.
+We were kindly received and regaled with luncheon, including, amongst
+other good things, fried _pejerey_ (king of fish), deservedly so
+called.
+
+In the afternoon we strolled about the garden, and looked at the farm
+and stable, and were shown the probable winner of one of the prizes at
+the forthcoming race-meeting. In the cottages on the estate some
+specimens of _minaque_ lace were offered to us--a lace made by most of
+the peasants in this part of the country. It varies considerably in
+quality, from the coarse kind, used for covering furniture, to the
+finest description, used for personal adornment It is very cheap,
+wears for ever, and strongly resembles the _torchon_ lace, now so
+fashionable in Paris and London for trimming petticoats and children's
+frocks. The women also spin, dye, and weave the wool from the fleece
+of their own sheep into the bright-coloured ponchos universally worn,
+winter and summer, by the men in this country. These ponchos are not
+made of nearly such good material as those used in the Argentine
+Republic, but they are considerably gayer and more picturesque in
+appearance.
+
+After dinner, there was nothing to do except to stroll about the town
+and buy photographs. They are extremely good in Chili--both views and
+portraits--but proportionately dear, the price being double what would
+be charged in London or Paris for the same thing.
+
+[Illustration: Waiting for the Train, Chili.]
+
+_Saturday, October 21st_.--Having wished good-bye to Mr. Mackay, and
+taken our seats in the train for Linares, we were now fairly launched
+on our own resources in a strange country, I being the only one of the
+party who could speak even a little Spanish. At San Romde we stopped
+half an hour to allow the train from Chilian to pass. Most of the
+passengers took the opportunity of breakfasting, but as we were not
+hungry we occupied the time in having a chat with the engine-driver, a
+very intelligent Canadian. He told us that, as it happened, we might
+have gone to Angol to-day after all, as a special car and engine were
+going there to take a doctor to see a patient, returning early
+to-morrow morning.
+
+The railroad runs alongside the Bio-Bio all the way to San Romde. On
+either bank are low wooded hills, on whose sides vines are cultivated
+in considerable quantities. The wild flowers grow luxuriantly
+everywhere: calceolarias, especially, in huge bushes of golden bloom,
+two or three feet high. At San Romde we left the river, and travelled
+through a pretty and well-cultivated country to Chilian, which derives
+its name from an Indian word, signifying 'saddle of the sun,' and is
+so called from the fact that the sun shines upon it through a
+saddle-shaped pass in the chain of the Andes.
+
+Like Concepcion, the existing town has been recently built at a
+distance of about a mile from the remains of the old place of the same
+name, which was overthrown by an earthquake about thirty years ago.
+The destruction was, however, not so complete as in the case of
+Concepcion, and some few of the better-conditioned houses are still
+inhabited by very poor people, though the walls have great cracks in
+them from top to bottom, and they are otherwise in a deplorable state.
+A large cattle and horse market is held at Chilian every Saturday, and
+it is said that, on these occasions, 100,000 dollars frequently change
+hands in the course of the morning, in the open market-place. All the
+business of the day was over by the time we got there, and there was
+nothing to be seen but a few stray beasts and quaint bullock-carts,
+and some peasants selling refreshments, _minaque_ lace, and other
+trifles. In several of the old-fashioned shops on the Plaza there were
+curious-looking stirrups, bits, spurs, and other horse-gear, all made
+of solid silver, roughly worked by the Indians themselves.
+
+Having had our baths, we returned to the hotel, where we found dinner
+laid out in my bed-room, which happened to be the largest, for our
+host did not approve of our dining at the table-d'hote, as we should
+have preferred to do. He gave us an excellent dinner, with good wine,
+and attended to us most assiduously himself.
+
+While the gentlemen were smoking, I went to see a poor engine-driver
+who had met with a bad accident, and who was lying at this hotel. He
+is a fine healthy-looking Englishman, and he told me that, until this
+misfortune, he had never known a day's illness in his life. It seems
+that, at four o'clock in the afternoon of this day week, he was sent
+off with a special engine to convey an important message. Something
+going wrong during the journey, he slackened speed, and, in stepping
+off the engine to see what was the matter, his foot slipped, and the
+wheel of the tender went over it. He had no one with him who could
+manage the engine alone, so he was obliged to get up again, and
+endeavour to struggle on to Talca; but after going a few miles
+further, the engine suddenly ran off the track, at a part of the
+unfinished line that had not yet been sufficiently ballasted. They
+could not get it on again unaided, and one of the men had to start off
+and walk many miles before he could procure assistance. Altogether,
+poor Clarke underwent forty-two hours of intense agony from the time
+of the accident until he received any medical attention. In spite of
+this he is now doing well; and though the foot, which is in a bath of
+carbolic acid and water, looks very bad, he is in great spirits,
+because the three local doctors, in consultation, have decided that
+amputation will not be necessary. He spoke in the highest terms of the
+kindness of our French host and his Spanish wife, the latter of whom,
+he says, has nursed him like a mother. He certainly has the one large
+room in the house, and when I saw him his bed was comfortably made and
+arranged, flowers and fruit were on a table by his side, and
+everything looked as neat and snug as possible. It was a treat to him
+to see some one fresh from the old country, and to hear all the news,
+and our voyage appeared to interest him greatly. While I was with him
+one of his friends came in, who remembered me quite well, and who knew
+one or two people with whom we are acquainted, including the manager
+of Messrs. Bowdler and Chaffers' yard, where the 'Sunbeam' was built.
+
+[Illustration: A Fellow Passenger]
+
+_Sunday, October 22nd_.--Though it was Sunday, we had no choice but to
+travel on, or we should not have been able to start until Tuesday. We
+were therefore up at five o'clock, and at the station before seven.
+From San Carlos, where we arrived at 8.15 a.m., we started for
+Linares, which was reached a couple of hours later. It is a much
+smaller town than Chilian, but is built on exactly the same
+plan--Plaza, cathedral, and all. To-day the streets were crowded with
+men on horseback, who had brought their wives in, seated
+pillion-fashion on the crupper behind them, to attend mass.
+
+Our road lay through a rich country, intersected by small rivers; with
+the distant snowy chain of the Andes as a background, and through
+thickly planted groves of poplars, growing in long shady avenues,
+fragrant with perfume from the magnificent roses which blossomed
+beneath their shade. In the course of our four hours' drive, we
+crossed a great many streams, in some of which the water was deep
+enough to come in at the bottom of the carriage, and cause us to tuck
+ourselves up on the seats; there was always a little pleasing
+excitement and doubt, as we approached one of these rivulets, as to
+whether we were to be inundated or not. We met a good many people
+riding and walking about in their holiday clothes, and at all the
+cabarets groups of talkers, drinkers, and players were assembled.
+
+The cottages we have seen by the roadside have been picturesque but
+wretched-looking edifices, generally composed of the branches of trees
+stuck in the ground, plastered with mud and thatched with reeds. Two
+outhouses, or arbours, consisting of a few posts and sticks, fastened
+together and overgrown with roses and other flowers, serve
+respectively as a cool sitting-room and a kitchen, the oven being
+invariably built on the ground outside the latter, for the sake of
+coolness. The women, when young, are singularly good-looking, with
+dark complexions, bright eyes, and luxuriant tresses, which they wear
+in two plaits, hanging down their backs far below the waist. The men
+are also, as a rule, fine-looking. In fact, the land is good, and
+everybody and everything looks prosperous. The beasts are up to their
+knees in rich pasture, are fat and sleek, and lie down to chew the cud
+of contentment, instead of searching anxiously for a scanty
+sustenance. The horses are well fed, and their coats are fine and
+glossy, and the sheep, pigs, and other animals are in equally good
+condition. It is therefore a cheery country to travel through, and at
+this spring-time of the year one sees it in its highest perfection.
+
+Before reaching Talca we had to cross the Maule, a wide, deep river,
+with a swift current. The carriage was first put on board a large
+flat-bottomed boat, into which the horses then jumped, one by one, the
+last to embark tumbling down and rolling among the legs of the others.
+With a large oar the boat was steered across the stream, down which it
+drifted about 200 yards into shallow water, where the boatmen jumped
+out and towed us to a convenient landing-place. Here we found several
+people waiting to be ferried over. A troop of mules having been driven
+into the water, which they seemed rather to enjoy, swam across safely,
+though they were carried some distance down the river.
+
+About five o'clock we arrived at Talca, and went straight to the Hotel
+Colon, kept by Gassaroni. Every Italian who starts an hotel in this
+part of the world calls it, as a matter of course, 'The Columbus
+Hotel;' for they are very anxious to claim the great navigator as a
+countryman, though the Spaniards dispute their right to do so, on the
+ground that Genoa, where he was really born, was at that time an
+independent State. While we were waiting for dinner we walked about
+the town, which so exactly resembles Concepcion and Chilian in the
+arrangement of its streets, buildings, and trees, that I doubt whether
+any one familiar with the three places could tell immediately which
+town he was in, if transported suddenly to the middle of the Plaza,
+though I believe Talca is rather the largest. It still retains its old
+Indian name, meaning 'thunder,' doubtless on account of the frequency
+and violence of the thunder-storms by which it is visited.
+
+_Monday, October 23rd_.--Soon after midnight I was aroused by a great
+noise. At first I thought I was dreaming, but a very brief reflection
+convinced me of the existence of an energetically played big-drum,
+somewhere in the immediate neighbourhood of my bed-room. I at once got
+up and, peeping through the window in the door, saw a military band of
+twenty-five performers, standing on the other side of the courtyard,
+blowing and hitting their hardest. It must be confessed that they
+played well, and that their selection of music was good, but it was,
+nevertheless, rather annoying, after a long and fatiguing day, and
+with the prospect of an early start, to be kept awake until half-past
+three in the morning, while they serenaded and toasted the _prima
+donna_, and each of the other members of the theatrical company who
+are staying here. The noise was, of course, increased by the
+reverberation from the walls of the courtyard, and, finding it
+impossible to sleep, I abandoned the attempt, and took to writing
+instead. At last the welcome notes of the Chilian national air gave me
+hope that the entertainment was over for the night--or rather
+morning--and soon afterwards all was once more quiet.
+
+We left Talca by the 7.30 train, Mr. Budge, who had business at
+Curico, accompanying us. All the engines and rolling stock this side
+of Santiago are of American make and pattern. Mr. Budge had secured
+one of the long cars, with a passage down the centre, and a saloon at
+each end, for us, so we were very comfortable, and he told us a great
+deal about the country as we went along. Like all Chilenos, he is
+very patriotic, and is especially proud of the financial stability of
+his country. He often said,' If English people would only invest their
+money here, instead of in Peru or the Argentine Republic, they would
+get eight per cent, on good security.' We heard the same thing from
+many other sources; and it certainly does seem that this country is
+the most settled, and the least liable to be disturbed by revolutions,
+of any in South America. At Curico[7] we breakfasted at a little
+restaurant on Chilian dishes and the wine of the country. The latter
+is excellent and of various kinds, but it is so cheap that none of the
+innkeepers can be persuaded to supply it to travellers, whose only
+chance of tasting it, therefore, is at some small inn.
+
+[Footnote 7: An Indian name, signifying 'black waters,' having
+reference to the mineral springs in the neighbouring mountains.]
+
+Mr. Budge left us at Pelequen, the next station to San Fernando,
+having put us in charge of the conductor, who promised to see after us
+at Cauquenes, but who wofully betrayed his trust. There was no regular
+station at the latter place, but as the train stopped, and we saw
+'Bains de Cauquenes' on an hotel close by, we jumped out just in time
+to see it go on again. Luckily the other passengers were kind enough
+to interest themselves on our behalf, and shrieked and hallooed to
+such good purpose that the engine was once more brought to a
+standstill, and our luggage was put out. Half-a-dozen little boys
+carried it to the inn, where I had to explain to the _patron_, in my
+best Spanish, that we wanted a carriage to go to the baths, seven
+leagues off. In a wonderfully short space of time, four good horses
+were harnessed to a queer sort of vehicle, which held four inside and
+one out, besides the driver, and which had to be entered by means of a
+ladder. Having all packed in, and paid our fare beforehand, we were
+rattled off at a merry pace towards the Andes. The road went up and
+down and round about, and crossed many rivers, but was fairly good
+throughout. We changed once at a large hacienda, where a man went into
+a large yard, containing about sixty horses, and dexterously lassoed
+the particular four required for our use. Several horsemen were
+waiting about, and I looked at their saddles, which were made of a
+dozen or more sheepskins, laid one on the top of the other, forming a
+soft seat to ride in by day and a comfortable bed to sleep on at
+night.
+
+[Illustration: Baths of Cauquenes]
+
+Early in the afternoon we saw some buildings in the distance, which we
+rightly guessed to be the baths, and soon afterwards we passed in at
+the entrance gate of the establishment, by the side of which was a
+rock with the word 'Welcome' painted upon its face. The whole distance
+from the station was twenty-three miles, which we had accomplished in
+a little over two hours. Driving between hedgerows of roses in full
+bloom, we were not long in reaching the door of the hotel, where we
+were received by the proprietor. He told us he was very full, but he
+managed to find us some small rooms, and then conducted us to the
+luxuriously fitted bathing establishment. After this came the
+table-d'hote, to which about seventy sat down, though many of the
+visitors were dining in their own rooms. In the evening we walked
+about the garden and chatted with several people, who all seemed to
+have heard of us and our voyage, and to be anxious to know what we
+thought of the Straits. We saw some English papers too, which was a
+great treat, though there did not seem to be much news in them.
+
+_Tuesday, October 24th_.--This is a wonderful place, built entirely of
+wood. The centre part is a square, seventy yards in extent, surrounded
+by a single row of one-storied rooms, with doors opening into the
+courtyard, and windows looking over the river or up into the
+mountains. In the middle of the square are a pavilion containing two
+billiard-tables, a boot-blacking arbour, covered with white and yellow
+jessamine and scarlet and cream-coloured honeysuckle, plenty of
+flower-beds, full of roses and orange-trees, and a monkey on a pole,
+who must, poor creature, have a sorry life of it, as it is his
+business to afford amusement to all the visitors to the baths. He is
+very good-tempered, does several tricks, and is tormented 'from early
+dawn to dewy eve.' I remonstrated with our host on his behalf; but he
+merely shrugged his shoulders and said, 'Mais il faut que le monde se
+divertisse, Madame.' From the centre square, marble steps lead to a
+large hall, with marble baths on either side, for ladies and gentlemen
+respectively. A few steps further bring one to a delightful
+swimming-bath, about forty feet square, filled with tepid water. The
+water, as it springs from the rock, is boiling hot, and contains, I
+believe, a good deal of magnesia and other salts, beneficial in cases
+of rheumatism and gout; but the high temperature of the water makes
+the air very muggy, and we all found the place relaxing, though
+perhaps it was because we indulged too freely in the baths, which are
+a great temptation.
+
+[Illustration: Up the Valley towards the Andes.]
+
+In the afternoon we went for a ride, to see a celebrated view of the
+Andes. Unfortunately it was rather misty, but we could see enough to
+enable us to imagine the rest. Some condors were soaring round the
+rocky peaks, and the landscape, though well clothed with vegetation,
+had a weird, dreary character of its own, partly due to the quantity
+of large cacti that grew in every nook and corner, singly, or in
+groups of ten or twelve, to the height of twenty or thirty feet.
+Though they say it hardly ever rains in Chili, a heavy shower fell
+this afternoon, and our landlord thoughtfully sent a boy on horseback
+after us with umbrellas.
+
+_Wednesday, October 25th_.--The bath was so delightful this morning,
+that we felt quite sorry it was to be our last. One could very well
+spend a week or two here, and find plenty to do in the way of
+excursions into the valleys of the Andes, which look most inviting in
+the distance.
+
+At half-past ten, we set out on our return journey to the railway,
+changing horses at the same place where we had stopped at coming up,
+and which we reached half an hour before the train was due; when it
+arrived we were allowed to get in with our belongings in rather a less
+hurried fashion than we had alighted. Luncheon was procured at
+Rancagua, and we finally reached Santiago at about 4.50 p.m. No sooner
+had we got fairly into the station than the car was invaded by a crowd
+of Porters touting for employment. They are all dressed in white, and
+wear red caps, on which is a brass number, by means of which they are
+easily recognised. The landlord from the Hotel Ingles, M. Tellier, met
+us, and we at once drove off, leaving our luggage to follow, in charge
+of one of the red-capped gentlemen. The drive from the station was
+along the Alameda, on either side of which were many fine houses; but
+the road was ill-paved and shaky as usual.
+
+[Illustration: Cacti of the Cordillera]
+
+The Grand Hotel, which used to be considered the best in South
+America, is now shut up, the company who owned it having recently
+failed; so all the smaller hotels, none of which are very good, are
+crowded to overflowing. The Hotel Ingles is considered the best,
+though I cannot say much in its favour. The rooms are good, but the
+situation is noisy, being at the corner of two streets; the servants
+are attentive, but the cuisine and arrangements are bad. Independently
+of all this, we have great reason to complain of the conduct of the
+landlord, for my first question, as soon as he had introduced himself,
+was, of course, 'Have Mr. and Miss Brassey arrived?' 'Yes, Madame, and
+went away this morning.' 'What! and left no letter?' 'No; but Monsieur
+returns to-morrow.' Imagine my surprise and disappointment! But there
+was nothing to be done but to go to the hotel and wait patiently. We
+afterwards found that _Tom had left a long letter, and that he had
+never said a word about returning_. The wretched man would not give me
+the letter, because he thought he could detain us, and he never sent
+the telegram I handed to him to forward to Tom at once, asking for an
+answer.
+
+[Illustration: Huasso Huts.]
+
+Our luggage arrived just in time to enable us to dress for the second
+table-d'hote at six o'clock, after which we went for a walk through
+some arcades, paved with marble, and full of fine shops, past the
+Grand Hotel, which was situated at the end of the Alameda, and is
+built over an arcade of shops. It is a handsome building, and must
+command a fine view. The cathedral and the archbishop's palace, large
+but rather dull-looking brick buildings, are close by. The surrounding
+gardens looked pretty by gaslight, and the scent of roses pervaded the
+evening air.
+
+[Illustration: Huasso of Chili]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+SANTIAGO AND VALPARAISO.
+
+    _Gems of the changing autumn, how beautiful you are,_
+    _Shining from your glassy stems, like many a golden star._
+
+
+_Thursday, October 26th_.--Our kind hostess at Lota had given us a
+letter of introduction to her manager at Santiago, who called this
+morning to inquire what arrangements he could make which would be most
+agreeable to us during our stay. She had also given orders that her
+carriages and horses should be placed at our disposal, and at about
+ten o'clock we all started in an open break, drawn by a pair of
+good-looking half-bred brown horses, bigger than any we had seen
+before in this country.
+
+[Illustration: Morning Mass at Santiago]
+
+We went first to the Compania, a large open square, planted with
+flowers, the site of the old Jesuit Church, which was burnt down on
+December 8th, 1863. Well known as the story is, I may here recall the
+tragic details, standing on the very spot where they took place. It
+was the Feast of the Virgin, and the church was densely crowded with a
+congregation composed almost entirely of women, principally young,
+many of whom were servant-girls. Some of the draperies used in the
+decoration of the building caught fire, the flames spread rapidly,
+destroying in their course the cords by which the numerous paraffin
+and oil lamps were suspended across the nave and aisles, and
+precipitating their burning contents upon the people beneath. The
+great doors opened inwards; the crowd, trying to press out, closed
+them, and kept them hermetically sealed. The priests, anxious to save
+the church properties and sacred relics, shut the large iron gates
+across the chancel and kept them fastened, notwithstanding the
+agonising shrieks of the unhappy victims, many of whom might otherwise
+have escaped. Their conduct on this terrible occasion created at the
+time a feeling of bitter and universal indignation, and caused a shock
+to the popularity and authority of the priesthood in this country,
+from which it will take them a long time to recover.
+
+Mr. Long told us that, between seven and eight o'clock on the evening
+of the catastrophe, he was walking with some friends on the Alameda,
+when he saw smoke rising in dense volumes from the quarter of the city
+where the house in which he resided was situated. He and his friends
+ran quickly in the direction of the fire, giving the alarm as they
+went, and on reaching the church they found the doors closely shut,
+while fearful screams were issuing from the interior, and smoke and
+flames pouring from the windows. They got a party of men together
+accustomed to the use of the lasso--no difficult task here--and with
+them climbed from the neighbouring houses to the top of the church.
+Making a hole in the roof, they then dropped their lassoes over some
+of the women beneath, and so dragged them out of the building; but the
+number thus saved was necessarily very small, and it happened too
+often that many of the poor creatures below, in their eagerness to
+escape, hung on to the legs or body of the one they saw lassoed, and
+by their weight literally dragged her to pieces. Sometimes even a
+lasso broke, and those clinging to it, when almost within reach of
+safety, were again precipitated into the burning mass below. Any one
+who has seen a raw hide lasso, capable of withstanding the sudden rush
+of the fiercest bull ever captured, will be able to realise the
+immense strain which would be required to cause one to give way. The
+next morning at daybreak, the interior of the church presented a
+terrible spectacle. Mr. Long described it as being full of women,
+standing up, tightly wedged together, their hands stretched out as if
+in an attitude of supplication, their faces and the upper part of
+their bodies charred beyond recognition, the lower part, from the
+waist downwards, completely untouched.
+
+Their remains were buried in one large grave, in the cemetery of the
+Recoleta, and the spot is now marked by a square piece of ground, full
+of bright flowers, enclosed by iron railings, almost hidden by the
+creepers that entwine them, and shaded by willows, orange-trees,
+cypresses, and pomegranates. In the centre is a large cross, and on
+either side of the iron railings there is a marble tablet with the
+simple but touching inscription, in Spanish--
+
+'Incendio de la Iglesia
+  de la Compania,
+8 de Diciembre, 1863.
+Restos de las Victimas;
+  2000, mas o menos.'
+
+(Burning of the Church of the Compania, December 8th, 1863
+Remains of the victims. 2,000, more or less.)
+
+Almost every household in Santiago had lost one of its members. One
+lovely girl of seventeen was pulled out through the roof and taken to
+Madame Cousino's residence, where she lay for nearly a fortnight. She
+suffered the greatest agonies, but was sensible to the last, and gave
+a graphic account of the whole harrowing scene. The site of the
+church, hallowed by such sad memories, has never been built upon, but
+is preserved as an open space, surrounded by a strip of garden, and
+having in its centre a finely carved monument.
+
+The Houses of Congress were the next thing we went to see, after which
+we drove through a great part of the city and over a handsome bridge
+with statues and small niches on either side. Beneath it, however,
+there is little more than a dry torrent bed; and it is said that an
+American, when visiting this spot with a Santiago friend, who was
+showing him round, remarked, 'I guess you ought either to buy a river
+or sell this here bridge.' We also went to the Church of La Recoleta.
+From the church we went to the cemetery of the same name, which is
+prettily laid out, and well stocked with flowers and trees.
+
+It being now past eleven o'clock, we began to think about breakfast,
+and accordingly returned to the hotel, where I was disappointed to
+find no news from Tom and no answer to the telegram I sent last night.
+
+At one o'clock we started again, and had a pleasant but rather dusty
+drive of eight miles to Macul, the stud-farm established by the late
+Don Luis Cousino.
+
+We had some luncheon at Mr. Canning's house, in a room that had
+recently been split from top to bottom by an earthquake, and
+afterwards sat in the verandah to see the horses and some of the
+cattle, which were brought round for our inspection. Amongst them were
+Fanfaron, Fandango, and other beautiful thoroughbreds, three fine
+Cleveland coach-horses, Suffolk cart-horses and percherons, and some
+of the young stock. We saw only a few of the beasts, as at this time
+they are away feeding on the hills, but I believe they are as good as
+the horses. Mr. Long had arranged for us all to ride round the farm,
+and I was mounted on a lovely chestnut mare, sixteen hands high,
+daughter of Fanfaron, and niece to Kettledrum. I should have liked to
+have bought her and sent her home, but she was not for sale, though
+her value was 400_l_. English horses here are as dear, in proportion,
+as native horses are cheap. The latter may be bought for from twenty
+to sixty dollars apiece; and some of them make capital little hacks.
+
+We rode all over the farm, attended by half-a-dozen peones, who drove
+the young thoroughbred stock together, in the enormous fields, for us
+to see, and afterwards did the same thing with some of the cattle. We
+also went through the farm buildings, in one part of which we saw the
+operation of making lassoes. The best are composed of neatly plaited
+strips of cured hide, about a quarter of an inch wide, the commoner
+sort being made from an undressed cow's hide, with the hair on, cut
+from the centre in an ever-increasing circle, so that they are in one
+piece, many yards in length. In another part of the farm there were a
+few acres more of flower-gardens, orange-trees, and kitchen-gardens.
+
+[Illustration: What makes Horses go in Chili]
+
+Beautiful as the whole place is, it loses much in interest from its
+vastness. You never seem to know where you are, or when you have come
+to an end. I hear that Madame Cousino talks of extending the park
+still further, right up into the mountains, which seems almost a pity,
+as it is already too big to be kept in really perfect order, even with
+a hundred and twenty men employed upon it. Everything is completely
+surrounded and overgrown with flowers. Even the fields are separated
+by hedges of sweet-smelling double pink roses, and these hedges are
+larger than many a 'bull-finch' in the old country.
+
+After a delightful gallop of about two hours, we returned to the
+farmhouse, where we found a fresh pair of horses waiting for us in the
+break, and drove back to Santiago by moonlight.
+
+It was eight o'clock when we reached the hotel, and as the
+table-d'hote dinner only lasts from five till half-past seven, I
+asked for a private dinner in our own room or in the general
+dining-room, for our own party and two guests in addition. But the
+landlord said he was not at all sure about giving us dinner; he must
+see what there was in the kitchen first. We then declared we would go
+and dine at a cafe, and in less than half an hour managed to get an
+excellent little dinner at the Cafe Santiago, though even Mr. Long,
+who ordered it for us, could not induce them to give us native wine. I
+am bound to confess, however, that we punished ourselves at least as
+much as the landlord, for as we paid so much a day for board and
+lodging, he was of course bound to provide us with dinner, and we had
+thus to pay for our food twice over.
+
+_Friday, October 27th_.--Still no news from Tom. Mr. Long called at
+half-past eight, to take me to the market, and my first step was to
+send another telegram, this time taking care to see that it really was
+despatched.
+
+We then walked through the streets to the market-hall, a handsome iron
+building, commodiously arranged, which was sent out from England in
+pieces, and put together here. All round it are stalls, where you can
+get a capital breakfast, generally consisting of coffee, tender
+beef-steak, buttered toast, and boiled beans, for a small sum. One of
+our party, who had been at the market since half-past five, tried one,
+and fully confirmed the report we had heard as to their excellence and
+cleanliness. At the time of our visit all these refreshment stalls
+were crowded, and I felt rather tempted to join one of the hungry
+merry-looking groups myself. The market was well supplied with meat,
+fish, vegetables, fruit, and flowers of all kinds, green peas, French
+beans, and strawberries being specially abundant. There were
+quantities of queer-looking baskets to be seen, and some curious
+pottery, made by the nuns from a kind of cement. Outside the building
+there were men and women hanging about with ponchos, of their own
+manufacture, which they had brought in from the country, for sale. We
+bought some bright specimens as presents for the children, but it took
+some time to collect them, as each individual had only one to offer.
+They are the work of the women, in the intervals of household labour,
+and as soon as one is completed it is sold, in order that materials
+for a fresh one may be purchased. We also bought some of the carved
+wooden stirrups, made in the country, and used by all the natives.
+They are rather like a small coalscuttle in shape, and must be heavy
+and cumbersome.
+
+From the market we went to hear high mass at the cathedral. This is a
+fine building, though the interior seemed very dark. The high altar
+was illuminated by hundreds of candles, whose light shone on a crowd
+of kneeling women, all dressed in black, and with black veils over
+their heads, the contrast between their sombre appearance and the
+gilding and paintings on the walls--handsome at a distance, but tawdry
+on a closer examination--being very striking. The organ is of splendid
+tone and quality and reverberated grandly through the aisles, and the
+whole scene was not without a certain impressiveness. I had not
+thought of paying a visit to the cathedral when I went out this
+morning, and it was not until I saw every one staring at me that I
+remembered I had committed the terrible mistake of going to church in
+a hat, and without any veil; but we remained in a dark corner most of
+the time, and emerged into open daylight again before any of the
+authorities of the place had time to observe or remonstrate with me.
+My wearing a hat was, however, quite as much against all church rules
+as a similar proceeding on the part of a man would have been. The
+women of this city are almost always good-looking when young, and they
+glide gracefully about the streets in their long black clinging gowns
+and _mantos_, by which they are completely enveloped from head to
+foot.
+
+In the afternoon we went for a drive in the park, and to see Santa
+Lucia, of which, as the only hill in Santiago, the inhabitants of the
+city are very proud, and from thence drove to the Cousino Park, an
+extensive piece of ground near the Alameda, laid out and arranged
+under the direction of the late Don Luis Cousino, and presented by him
+to the city of Santiago.
+
+After a stroll round the park, Mr. Long took us to an emporium for
+Panama hats, which are made in Lima, Guayaquil, and other states of
+Chili, as well as in Panama, from a special kind of grass, split very
+fine, and worn by almost everybody on this coast. The best made cost
+340 dollars, or about sixty guineas, and fifty pounds is not at all an
+uncommon price to pay, though the inferior kind may be had for two
+pounds. Those ordinarily worn by the gentlemen here cost from twenty
+to thirty pounds each, but they are so light, pliable, and elastic
+that they will wear for ever, wash like a pocket-handkerchief, do not
+get burnt by the sun, and can be rolled up and sat upon--in fact,
+ill-treated in any way you like--without fear of their breaking,
+tearing, or getting out of shape. For the yacht, however, where so
+many hats are lost overboard, they would, I fear, prove a rather
+unprofitable investment.
+
+We now drove back to the hotel, past the Mint, a handsome building,
+guarded by soldiers, and with windows protected by iron gratings. On
+our return I found that one of the valuable ponchos, given to me in
+the Argentine Republic, had been taken from our room. The landlord
+declined to trouble himself about its recovery, as he said it was
+'most unlikely that any one would take a thing of no value to him
+here;' the real truth being that the guanaco ponchos are worth nearly
+double as much in Chili as they are on the other side of the Andes.
+
+After dinner we walked to the theatre, where we saw _La Sonnambula_
+well put on the stage, and well sung and acted by an Italian opera
+company. The _prima donna_, contralto, baritone, and bass were all
+good, but the scenery was occasionally somewhat deficient. The house,
+which is highly decorated--perhaps too much so for the ladies'
+dresses--looked well by night, though if it had been full the effect
+would have been still better. The box-tiers are not divided into
+pigeon-holes, as they are with us, and everybody can therefore see
+equally well. The Presidential box seemed commodious and handsome, and
+had the Chilian coat of arms in front of it, making it look very much
+like a Royal box.
+
+The walk back by moonlight was delightful. Some of our party
+afterwards went to the Union Club, where they met several English
+gentlemen, who were most kind and pressing in their invitations to
+them to stay a few days longer, and go up the mountains to see the
+views and to have some guanaco shooting. About twenty-four hours from
+here they say you can have your first shot, and a little further on
+you meet them in herds which may be counted by thousands. There are
+also wild horses and wild donkeys. Quaggas and huemuls used to be
+found, but are now extinct. The last named is a rare animal, exactly
+resembling a horse in every particular, except that its hoofs are
+cloven. It used only to be found in the mountains of Chili, and it is
+one of the supporters of the national coat of arms.
+
+_Saturday, October 28th_.--At 5 a.m. we were called, and soon
+afterwards parting gifts of flowers began to arrive, and even I was
+obliged to confess that four large clothes-baskets full of rosebuds
+were more than I quite knew what to do with. At seven Mr. Long came to
+know if he could help us in any way, and a little later Madame
+Cousino's coachman appeared with the carriage, to take us to the
+station.
+
+We had a pleasant drive down the Alameda, the sun shining brilliantly
+in a bright blue sky, and the distant mountains for the first time
+being clearly visible. The station was crowded with vendors of
+pottery, curious things in buffalo horn, sweetmeats, &c. The rolling
+stock on this line is of English manufacture, and we were therefore
+put into the too familiar, close, stuffy, first-class carriage, and
+duly locked up for the journey down to Valparaiso. The line, running
+as it does through mountain gorges for a great portion of the way,
+must have been a difficult one to make.
+
+Just now the whole country wears a golden tint from the bloom of the
+espinosa, which seems to grow everywhere, and which is now in
+perfection. The branches of this shrub are so completely covered with
+little yellow balls of flowers, which come before the leaves, and
+which have no separate stalk, but grow along the shiny, horny
+branches, that they look as if they were made of gold. It is called
+the 'burning bush' here, and its wood is said to be the hardest in the
+country. The flowers are often plucked off and dried, in which state
+they are most fragrant and are used for scenting linen and for keeping
+away moths. The thorns, however, are a terrible nuisance to the
+shepherds and owners of cattle, catching their clothes and tearing
+them as they gallop swiftly across over the plains. If I bore you by
+saying too much about the flowers, forgive me. I want to make you all
+realise, if possible, what a lovely flowery land Chili is. The whole
+air is quite perfumed with roses, principally large double pink roses,
+something like the old-fashioned cabbage rose, though there are a good
+many of the monthly kind and a few white and deep scarlet ones. They
+formed hedgerows on either side of the road, and in many places
+climbed thirty or forty feet up the trees, and then threw down long
+brambles laden with bloom, almost producing the effect of a wall of
+pink. There were also plenty of wild flowers of other sorts, such as
+scarlet and white lilies, larkspurs, eschscholtzias, evening
+primroses, and many others whose names I do not know.
+
+At Llaillai we stopped for breakfast, procured at a small restaurant
+at the station. While waiting for the train for Santiago to come in,
+we had plenty of time to observe the half-Indian girls selling fruit,
+flowers, cakes, &c., and jabbering away in a sort of _patois_ Spanish,
+in recommendation of their wares. Some of them were really pretty,
+and all were picturesquely dressed in bright-coloured stuffs, their
+hair neatly done up and decorated with flowers, their faces clean and
+smiling. At 11.15 a.m. we reached Quillota, where the train was
+literally besieged by men, women, and children, offering bouquets for
+sale--two or three of which were thrust in at every carriage
+window--and baskets of strawberries, cherimoyas, nisperos, melons,
+oranges, sugar-cane, plantain, bananas, asparagus, green peas, French
+beans, eggs, chickens, and even fish--nice little pejereyes, fresh
+from the stream close by. It must evidently be the custom of the
+Chilenos to visit by rail these fertile districts, for the purpose of
+doing their marketing; for the occupants of the train soon absorbed
+the entire stock of the vendors, who were left with empty baskets.
+
+I never saw such a country as this is for eggs and chickens. A hen
+seems never to have a smaller brood than ten, and I have often counted
+from seventeen to twenty-one chickens with the mother, and, more than
+once, as many as twenty-four. However well you may have breakfasted or
+dined, the waiters always come at the end of the meal to ask, not
+_whether_ you will have any eggs, but _how_ you will have them--fried,
+boiled, poached, or in some sort of omelette. If you refuse
+altogether, the chances are that two very lightly boiled eggs will be
+placed by your side, with the suggestion that you should beat them up
+and drink them. The inhabitants of the country always seem to finish
+their meals with eggs in some form or another.
+
+The celebrated 'Bell of Quillota,' a mountain which derives its name
+from its peculiar shape, and which serves as a good landmark in
+entering the harbour of Valparaiso, is well seen from the railway, a
+little below Quillota Station. We stopped again at Limache, a little
+village, situated in the midst of a fertile country, about twenty-five
+miles from Valparaiso, where fruit, flowers, &c., were as freely
+offered for sale as before, and again at Vina del Mar, the next
+station to Valparaiso. There is a good hotel here, in the midst of a
+pretty garden, where you can get an excellent breakfast or dinner.
+
+From this spot the line runs close along the edge of the sea, and we
+strained our eyes in vain, trying to discover the yacht. At the
+station we were assailed by porters and touts of every description,
+but, seeing no one to meet us, and not knowing where to go, we
+contented ourselves with collecting our luggage in a little heap,
+while a fight went on close by between a policeman and a coachman, who
+had been too persistent in his endeavours to obtain a fare. They
+knocked one another about a good deal, and broke one or two windows,
+after which they appeared quite satisfied, shook hands, and were good
+friends again. Tom, Mabelle, and Muriel arrived before it was over,
+and we were very glad to meet again after our short absence.
+
+A long, dusty drive brought us to the mole, and while the luggage was
+being packed into the boat, Tom and I went to call on the British
+Consul, where we found some letters. We were on board in time for two
+o'clock luncheon, after which, amid many interruptions from visitors,
+we devoured our news from home and other parts--for amongst our
+letters were some from Natal, India, Japan, Canada, Teneriffe, South
+American ports, St. Petersburg, Constantinople, and several other
+places, besides those from dear old England.
+
+About four o'clock Tom and I went ashore. We had intended going alone
+in the 'Flash' (our lightest boat), but a strong southerly wind had
+sprung up, which at once made the sea so rough that we went in the
+'Gleam' (the gig) instead, with six oars. It took the men all their
+time to get us ashore, though we had not far to go, for wind, tide,
+and waves were all against us.
+
+Valparaiso consists mainly of two interminable streets, running along
+the edge of the sea, at the foot of the hills, which rise immediately
+behind them, and on which are built all the residences and villas of
+the gentlemen of the place. Very few live in the town itself, which is
+composed almost entirely of large warehouses and fine shops, where you
+can get almost anything you want by paying between three and four
+times as much for it as you would do in England. For instance, the
+charge for hair-cutting is a dollar and a half (4s.), a
+three-and-sixpenny Letts's Diary costs two dollars and a half (10s.),
+a tall hat costs fifty-eight shillings, you must pay sixpence each for
+parchment luggage-labels, threepence apiece for quill pens, four
+shillings for a quire of common notepaper, and so on in proportion.
+
+We had, as I have said, seen the yacht leave Lota Bay, with a strong
+head-wind blowing, on Thursday, the 19th instant. In a few hours the
+wind fell to a calm, which then changed to a light favourable breeze,
+and the 'Sunbeam' reached Valparaiso on the following Saturday
+afternoon, anchoring out in the bay, not far from H.M.S. 'Opal.' Here
+they rolled and tumbled about even more than if they had been at sea,
+the swinging capacities of the saloon tables and lamps being tried to
+the utmost. On Sunday half the men went ashore for a few hours' leave,
+but neither they nor the boat returned until the next morning, as they
+had not been allowed to leave the shore after nine o'clock. In the
+meantime Tom had been told that small-pox was raging in the town, and
+he was much annoyed at their having to pass the night on shore, owing
+to proper inquiries as to the regulations of the port not having been
+made by them on landing. The next day the doctor went to see some
+medical _confreres_ at the hospital, and found that the reports were
+much exaggerated, the reality being that small-pox is always more or
+less prevalent both here and at Santiago. Three months ago it was very
+bad, but at the present time it is not worse than usual. Tom and
+Mabelle started for Santiago on Monday, but unfortunately left their
+letters of introduction behind; and as they did not like the hotel,
+they found it rather dull. We could not telegraph to them from
+Cauquenes, or anywhere _en route_, for there were no wires; so on
+Wednesday morning, not hearing or seeing anything of us, they returned
+to Valparaiso. Tom left a long letter for me, with enclosures (which I
+never received), in the innkeeper's hands, asking for a telegraphic
+reply as to our plans and intentions, and, as I have already
+mentioned, never said a word about coming back. Thursday was spent in
+seeing what little there is to see in Valparaiso, and in visiting the
+'Opal.' On Friday Tom went for a sail, moved the yacht close inshore,
+had a dinner-party on board, and went to a pleasant ball afterwards,
+given by the Philharmonic Society, an association of the same sort as
+the one at Rio. It was not, however, called a regular ball, but a
+_teriulia_, so the ladies were in _demi-toilette_. Tom described the
+room as good, the floor first-rate, the music excellent, the ladies
+good-looking, and the men agreeable. To-day he met us at the station
+with the children; and now, therefore, one account will describe the
+movements of the whole reunited party.
+
+_Sunday, October 29th_.--We all went ashore to church, having been
+told it was only five minutes' walk from the landing-place, instead of
+which it took us at least a quarter of an hour, in an intensely hot
+sun, to climb up a steep hill. The building itself was large, airy,
+and cool, and there is a good organ and choir, but most of the
+choristers had gone away to-day to a picnic in the country. During the
+Litany our attention was suddenly drawn to the fact that earthquakes
+are matters of frequent occurrence in this country, by a special
+prayer being offered up for preservation from them and their
+destructive effects.
+
+At four o'clock we went ashore for a ride, and having climbed the
+hills at the back of the town, which command extensive views over land
+and sea, we galloped across the downs and through some villages on to
+the old high road from Valparaiso to Santiago, along which we rode
+only for a few yards, turning off into a romantic valley, where the
+path was so narrow that we could barely squeeze through between the
+thickly growing shrubs and trees. At last we went up a steep hill on
+to another high road, and re-entered the town quite at the opposite
+end to that at which we had left it, after which a ride of two miles
+along the stony, ill-paved streets brought us to the landing-place.
+
+_Monday, October 30th_.--We were to be off directly the sea-breeze
+sprang up, at about eleven o'clock, and as I had many letters to
+write, I was called at 4 a.m., and finished them all before breakfast
+at eight. But first one visitor and then another arrived, and it was
+nearly eleven o'clock when we landed to make the final preparations
+for starting on our long voyage of eleven thousand miles across the
+Pacific.
+
+Our route, as at present, arranged, will be via the Society, Friendly,
+and Sandwich Islands. Juan Fernandez (Robinson Crusoe's Island), which
+we at first thought of visiting, we have been obliged, I am sorry to
+say, to give up, not on account of its distance from Valparaiso, as it
+is only 270 miles off, but because it lies too far to the southward,
+and is consequently quite out of the track of the trade wind, which we
+ought to pick up, according to the charts and sailing directions,
+about 500 miles to the northward and westward of this place. I have
+been trying to persuade Tom to steam out five or six hundred miles, so
+that we may make a quick passage and economise our time as much as
+possible, but he is anxious to do _the whole_ voyage under sail, and
+we are therefore taking very little coal on board, in order to be in
+the best trim. If we do not pick up a wind, however, there is no
+knowing how long we may lollop about. I suppose till we are short of
+water and fresh provisions, when the fires will be lighted and we
+shall steam away to the nearest island--uninhabited, we will hope, or
+at any rate peopled by friendly natives, which is rather the
+exception than the rule in the south-east corner of the Low
+Archipelago. There we shall fill up with fresh water, bananas,
+bread-fruit, and perhaps a wild hog or two, and resume our voyage to
+Tahiti. But this is the least favourable view of the matter, and we
+must hope to fall in with the trades soon, and that they will blow
+strong and true.
+
+The island of Juan Fernandez now belongs to the Chilian government,
+but is let on a long lease to a man who, they say here, is somewhat of
+a robber. He was very desirous that we should give him a passage in
+the yacht, and another man wanted to come too, with some pointers, to
+show us the best spots for game, goats, turtle, crayfish, and
+sea-fish, with all of which the place abounds. Some cattle have also
+been introduced, and the island is much frequented by whalers, who go
+there for fresh provisions and water. There is nothing particular to
+be seen, however, and the scenery of the island is not remarkable; at
+least, so people who have been there tell us, and the photographs I
+have bought quite confirm their report. Admiral Simpson, who stayed
+there once for a fortnight, told us a good deal about the place, and
+strongly recommended us not to go there unless we had plenty of time
+to spare, as we should not be repaid for our trouble, which would
+probably only result in the dissipation of all our childish illusions.
+
+Our first step on landing this morning was to go to the Consul's to
+post our letters. By the bye, I hope people in England will appreciate
+them, for they cost between nine and ten pounds to send home. For our
+outward letters, although prepaid in England, we had to pay over eight
+pounds before we were allowed to have them from the office.
+Twenty-nine cases of stores, provisions, wine, &c., which had also
+been sent out, all arrived safely, and cost comparatively little.
+There are very good French hair-dressers here, a tempting hat-shop,
+and a well-stocked book-shop; but everything, as I have said, is
+frightfully dear.
+
+It was half-past three when the harbour-tug arrived to tow us out of
+the harbour and so save our getting up steam. There was not a breath
+of air stirring, but Tom hoped we should find more outside when the
+tug cast us off. As we dropped slowly out, we had a good view of the
+harbour and town; and we soon found ourselves once more fairly
+embarked on the bosom of the wide ocean.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+VALPARAISO TO TAHITI.
+
+    _The western sea was all aflame,_
+    _The day was well nigh done!_
+    _Almost upon the western wave_
+    _Rested the broad bright sun._
+
+
+_Tuesday, October 31st_.--Throughout the night a flat calm prevailed.
+The morning was wet and foggy, or we might still have seen Valparaiso,
+and perhaps have had a peep at Aconcagua. There was a light contrary
+wind from the N.W. throughout the day. In the afternoon we saw two
+whales blowing in the distance.
+
+_Wednesday, November 1st_.--An almost calm day, with a few light
+showers, and fitful but unfavourable breezes. Some thirty or forty
+little birds, which the sailors called Mother Carey's chickens, but
+which were smaller and more graceful than any I have seen of that
+name, followed closely in our wake. I was never tired of watching the
+dainty way in which they just touched the tips of the waves with their
+feet, and then started off afresh, like a little maiden skipping and
+hopping along, from sheer exuberance of spirit.
+
+_Thursday, November 2nd_.--A bright sunny morning, with a heavy swell
+and light contrary wind, but the sea became more tranquil towards the
+evening. The sunset was superb, and the afterglow, as is often the
+case in these latitudes, lighted up sky and sea with an indescribable
+beauty, which attained its greatest magnificence about five minutes
+after the sun had disappeared, reminding one of the glorious sunsets
+of the African deserts, so often described by travellers.
+
+_Friday, November 3rd_.--Still a blue sky, bright sunshine, smooth
+sea, and light head-wind. The crew have all turned tailors, and are
+making themselves new suits from some dungaree we bought at
+Valparaiso, the clothes we expected for them not having met us there.
+
+[Illustration: Juvenile Scrubbers.]
+
+_Saturday, November 4th_.--As fine as ever. This is certainly sailing
+luxuriously, if not swiftly. We have now settled down into our regular
+sea-ways, and have plenty to do on board; so the delay does not much
+signify. Still, our time is limited, and we all hope to fall in with
+the trades shortly to carry us to Tahiti or some of the South Sea
+islands. We caught half-a-dozen of the little petrels, for stuffing,
+by floating lines of black cotton astern, in which they became
+entangled.
+
+To-night's sunset was more superb than ever. Each moment produced a
+new and ever increasingly grand effect. I mean to try and take an
+instantaneous photograph of one. It would not, of course, reproduce
+all the marvellous shades of colouring, but it would perhaps give some
+idea of the forms of the masses of cloud, which are finer than any I
+ever saw before. This ocean seems to give one, in a strange way, a
+sense of solemn vastness, which was not produced to the same extent by
+the Atlantic. Whether this results from our knowledge of its size, or
+whether it is only fancy, I cannot say, but it is an impression which
+we all share.
+
+_Sunday, November 5th_.--Fine, and considerably hotter, though not
+unpleasantly so. We had the Litany at eleven, and evening prayers and
+a sermon at four o'clock. Not a single ship has passed within sight
+since we left Valparaiso, and the only living creatures we have seen
+are some albatrosses, a few white boobies, a cape-hen, the little
+petrels already mentioned, a shoal of porpoises, and two whales.
+
+_Monday, November 6th_.--Passed, at 3 a.m. to-day, a large barque,
+steering south, and at 8 a.m. a full-rigged ship, steering the same
+course. We held--as we do with every ship we pass--a short
+conversation with her through the means of the mercantile code of
+signals. (This habit of exchanging signals afterwards proved to have
+been a most useful practice, for when the report that the 'Sunbeam'
+had gone down with all hands was widely circulated through England, I
+might almost say the world,--for we found the report had preceded us
+by telegram to almost all the later ports we touched at,--the anxiety
+of our friends was relieved many days sooner than it would otherwise
+have been by the fact of our having spoken the German steamer
+'Sakhara,' in the Magellan Straits, Oct. 13, four days after we were
+supposed to have gone to the bottom.) The weather continues fine, and
+we have the same light baffling winds. We hoped, when we started, to
+average at least 200 miles a day, but now we have been a week at sea,
+and have only made good a little more than 700 miles altogether,
+though we have sailed over 800 miles through the water. It is,
+however, wonderful, in the opinion of the navigators, that we have
+made even as much progress as this, considering the very adverse
+circumstances under which the voyage has so far been performed, and we
+must endeavour to console ourselves with the reflection that the
+sailing qualities of the yacht have undergone another severe test in a
+satisfactory manner. How the provisions and water will last out, and
+what time we shall leave ourselves to see anything of Japan, are
+questions which, nevertheless, occasionally present themselves to our
+minds. Independently of such considerations, nothing could be more
+luxurious and delightful than our present mode of existence. With
+perfect weather, plenty of books to read and writing to do, no
+possibility of interruptions, one can map out one's day and dispose of
+one's time exactly as one pleases, until the half-past six o'clock
+dressing-bell--which always seems to come long before it is
+wanted--recalls one to the duties and necessities of life.
+
+[Illustration: Conversation at Sea.]
+
+_Wednesday, November 8th_.--A grey cloudy morning and a flat calm. At
+twelve o'clock, to the great joy of everybody on board, Tom decided to
+get up steam, as we have now been becalmed quite twenty-four hours,
+and have made but little progress in the right direction for some
+days. The alacrity with which the order to stow sails and raise the
+funnel was obeyed--every one lending a hand--and the delight expressed
+on every countenance, must have assured him of at least the popularity
+of his decision.
+
+Whilst we were waiting for steam to be got up, Tom took Muriel and me
+for a row in the 'Flash,' his own particular little boat, with about
+four inches of freeboard. The possibility of doing this will give you
+a better idea of the tranquillity of this vast ocean than any
+description I can write. At the same time, when we wanted to get into
+the boat, we found there was a considerable roll on, and that it was
+no easy matter without the aid of a gangway or ladder. We rowed a
+little way from the yacht, and, considering how quiet it had seemed to
+us when on board, it was wonderful to observe how she rolled in the
+trough of the sea, without sails to steady her or motive power to
+guide her. The Lota coals, though black and dirty beyond description,
+burn up very quickly, and in about an hour we were steaming merrily
+along, the Arabian horseshoe on our bowsprit's end being now pointed
+direct for the island of Tahiti, instead of for wherever the wind
+chose to blow us.
+
+_Thursday, November 9th_.--A flat calm at 6 a.m.; a very light fair
+wind at 9 a.m. In spite of my remonstrances, Tom determined, at
+half-past nine, to cease steaming and try sailing again. About twelve
+o'clock a puff came that sent us along at the rate of 10-1/2 knots for
+a short time; but it soon dropped, and during the rest of the
+afternoon and evening, our average speed was only three or four knots
+an hour. This is very poor work for the trades, but I don't believe we
+are really in them yet, in spite of the wind charts. It is possible
+that they may vary in different years; besides which it is now the
+height of summer, with the sun south of the line, which would
+naturally make them lighter.
+
+_Saturday, November 11th_.--At last we seem to be feeling the
+influence of the trades, as the wind continues to blow from the same
+direction, though it varies much in force. Sometimes we are going
+along at the rate of 11-3/4 knots, sometimes barely five. In the
+afternoon we had the usual Saturday singing practice.
+
+_Sunday, November 12th_.--Another lovely day. We had the Litany and
+hymns at eleven, evening service and sermon at four.
+
+Just before morning church some one turned on the water in the nursery
+bath, and forgot to turn it off again, so that when we came aft from
+the saloon we had the pleasure of finding everything in the children's
+cabins afloat, and that a good deal of water had got down into the
+hold. It was rather annoying at the time, but, I dare say, like many
+other present troubles, it was a good thing in the end. It obliged us,
+at any rate, to have all the stores brought up on deck, and led to our
+taking an inventory of our resources sooner than we should otherwise
+have done. I am sorry to say we found that, owing to the departure of
+our head steward and the illness of his successor, they have not been
+husbanded as carefully as they should have been, especially those
+provided for use forward. Sailors are more like children than grown-up
+men, and require as much looking after. While there is water in the
+tanks, for instance, they will use it in the most extravagant manner,
+without thought for the morrow; and they are quite as reckless with
+their other stores.
+
+I find, however, that one of the drawbacks to taking a very close
+personal interest in the housekeeping arrangements on board is the too
+intimate acquaintance one makes with the various individuals composing
+the live stock, the result being that the private particular history
+of every chicken, duck, turkey, and joint of mutton is apt to be
+remembered with a damaging effect to appetite.
+
+In the afternoon two boobies, the first birds we have seen for some
+days, paid us a visit. I suppose we are too far out to see anything
+more of our pretty little friends, the petrels.
+
+_Monday, November 13th_.--We had a regular turn-out and re-arrangement
+of our stores to-day, and discovered that the waste and mismanagement
+have been greater even than we at first supposed. Fortunately, we
+found some spare tins of provisions stowed away under the nursery
+floor and forgotten, and which will now come in very opportunely. But
+I fear that, even as it is, we may be seriously inconvenienced before
+getting to the end of our voyage. Of the six sheep, sixty chickens,
+thirty ducks, and four dozen pigeons, brought on board alive at
+Valparaiso, we have comparatively few left, and not a great deal to
+give those few to eat; so we must depend mainly on our potted meats
+and vegetables, which happen to be excellent. We often wonder how the
+earlier navigators got on, when there were no such things as tinned
+provisions, and when the facilities for carrying water were of the
+poorest description, while they were often months and months at sea,
+without an opportunity of replenishing their stores, and with no
+steam-power to fall back upon in case they were becalmed. Still more
+wonderful, in my opinion, is the successful manner in which the
+Spaniards managed to convey their hordes in tiny vessels, together
+with a sufficient quantity of forage for them, to the New World,
+where, according to all accounts, they generally arrived in good
+condition, fit to go to work or to war immediately.
+
+The wind increased in the evening and blew dead aft. In the middle of
+the night the mizen-halyards broke, and blocks and all came down with
+a tremendous crash, which caused both Tom and me to rush up on deck.
+About an hour and a half's work put everything straight again,
+however, though it looked a sad mess at first. We had been remarking
+at dinner how lucky we had been, with all this rolling about in calms
+and running before the wind, not to have had anything carried away or
+any of the ropes chafed. Personally, I think the accident is not to be
+regretted, for now all the fore and aft canvas is stowed, and we are
+running under square canvas alone, which is much steadier work, though
+we still roll considerably.
+
+_Tuesday, November 14th_.--Fine, with a strong fair wind. I have been
+laid up for a few days with a touch of my old enemy, Syrian fever, but
+am gradually recovering, and enjoy very much lying on deck and
+reading.
+
+Our victualling arrangements have now been satisfactorily settled, and
+everybody has been put on an allowance of water, our supply of which
+will last the whole ship's company of forty persons for five weeks,
+leaving one tank still in reserve in case of accidents. As we expect
+to reach our destination in about three weeks from the present time,
+we have therefore, I hope, an ample supply for all our requirements.
+
+_Wednesday, November 15th_.--Pleasant as we have found life at sea in
+the South Pacific hitherto, it is, I fear, monotonous to read about,
+and I dare say you will find it difficult to realise how quickly the
+days fly past, and how sorry we are when each one comes to an end. I
+am afraid they are among those things which do not repeat themselves.
+At any rate, they afford a golden opportunity for reading, such as we
+are not likely to have again often, if ever, in our busy lives; and
+Tom and I are endeavouring to make the best use of it by getting
+through as many of the seven hundred volumes we brought with us as
+possible. The weather favours us in our endeavours to be industrious;
+for, while it is sufficiently warm to indispose one for a very severe
+course of study, it has never been so hot as to compel us to lie down
+and do nothing but gasp for breath--which is what we were warned to
+expect. There is indeed one slight drawback to the perfect enjoyment
+of our present state of existence, and that is the incessant motion of
+the vessel. When she rolls as quickly as she has done to-day, it is
+difficult to settle down steadily to any occupation, and at last one
+cannot help feeling aggravated at the persistent manner in which
+everything, including one's self, refuses to be still for a single
+instant.
+
+_Thursday, November 16th_.--To-day it is really warm--not to say
+hot--with a bright cloudless sky, which renders an awning acceptable.
+We saw some 'bo's'n' birds for the first time, and more shoals of
+flying-fish. I wish a few of the latter would come on board; they
+would be an agreeable addition to our breakfast-table.
+
+The rolling still continues, the wind being dead aft, and nothing but
+our square canvas being set. The effect is rather wearisome, and one
+longs to be able to say 'Catch hold of her head and keep her still, if
+only for five minutes' peace and quietness!' Cooking is difficult, and
+even eating is a hazardous occupation; and at our evening game of
+cards we have to pocket our counters and markers and hold on as best
+we can.
+
+_Friday, November 17th_.--At 8 a.m. the course was altered, our
+fore-and-aft canvas was set again, and we were once more gliding along
+swiftly and smoothly through the water, to the great relief of every
+one on board. The day was lovely, and though it was warm, a pleasant
+breeze throughout the ship prevented our feeling uncomfortably hot.
+
+_Saturday, November 18th_.--The days are so much alike that it is
+difficult to find anything special to say about them. They fly so
+quickly that I was surprised to be reminded by the usual
+singing-practice this afternoon that another week had gone by.
+
+The two green paroquets, 'Coco' and 'Meta,' given to me by Mr. Fisher
+at Rosario, have turned out dear little pets, with the most amusing
+ways. They are terrible thieves, especially of sugar, pencils, pens,
+and paper, and being nearly always at liberty, they follow me about
+just like dogs, and coax and caress me with great affection. They do
+not care much for any one else, though they are civil to all and
+good-tempered even to the children, who, I am afraid, rather bore them
+with their attempts at petting. The other foreign birds, of which I
+have a large collection, are doing well, and I begin to hope I shall
+get them home safely after all. We had at one time about twenty
+parrots, belonging to the men, on board, all running about on deck
+forward, with their wings clipped, but about half of them have been
+lost overboard. The dogs keep their health and spirits wonderfully.
+Felise is quite young again, and she and Lulu have great games,
+tearing up and down and around the decks as hard as they can go.
+
+_Sunday, November 19th_.--I am convalescent at last, and appeared at
+breakfast this morning for the first time for ten days.
+
+The wind was very variable throughout the day. Between 6 and 7 a.m. we
+were going twelve knots; between 7 and 8 only three; but as we never
+stop, we manage to make up a fair average on the whole.
+
+At eleven o'clock we had the Communion Service and two hymns. At
+midday the week's work was made up, with the following result. Our
+position was in lat. 15 deg. 38' S., long. 117 deg. 52' W.; we were 3,057
+miles from Valparaiso,--1,335 of which had been accomplished since
+last Sunday,--and 1,818 miles from Tahiti.
+
+To-day we were not far from Easter Island, the southernmost island of
+Polynesia. Here as in the Ladrones, far away in the north-west quarter
+of the Pacific, most curious inscriptions are sometimes found carved
+in stone. Annexed is a photograph taken from one I saw at a later
+stage of the voyage.
+
+[Illustration: Inscription from Easter Island]
+
+The sails had been flapping, more or less, all day, and at the change
+of the dog-watches, at six o'clock, Tom ordered the men aft to stow
+the mizen. This they had scarcely begun to do when a light breeze
+sprang up, and in a few minutes increased to a strong one, before
+which we bowled along at the rate of nine knots. These sudden changes
+are of constant occurrence, and, coming as they do without the
+slightest warning, are quite inexplicable. If only we had our old
+square sails, and our bigger yards and topmast, we should have saved a
+good deal of time already; for one or two knots an hour extra amount
+to from 25 to 50 miles a day, and in a month's run the difference
+would not be far short of 1,500 miles. But we heard so much from
+people in England, who had visited these parts, of squalls and
+hurricanes, that Tom did not like to run the risk of being
+over-sparred, especially with a wife and children as passengers.
+
+_Monday, November 20th_.--The fore-and-aft sails were taken in, as
+they were doing no good and the square canvas was drawing. This
+allowed the mizen-awning to be spread, making a pleasant place to sit
+in and a capital playground for the children, who scamper about all
+day long, and do not appear to feel the heat a bit.
+
+_Tuesday, November 21st_.--Certainly a _very_ hot day. We made steady
+progress under the same canvas as yesterday.
+
+_Wednesday, November 22nd_.--Between 2 and 3 a.m. a nice breeze sprang
+up, and between 3 and 4.30 a.m. all the fore-and-aft sails were again
+set. It was deliciously cool on deck at that time; but the sun rose
+fierce and hot, and more or less killed the breeze as the day wore on.
+
+_Thursday, November 23rd_.--Twenty-four days out. We had hoped to
+reach Tahiti to-day, and Tom begins to regret that he did not steam
+some distance out from Valparaiso, so as to pick up the trades sooner.
+Still it is satisfactory to know how well the 'Sunbeam' can and does
+sail against light contrary winds, and to have an opportunity of
+developing some of her good points, of which we were previously hardly
+aware. How she manages to slip along as she does, four or five knots
+an hour, with not sufficient wind to blow a candle out, is a marvel to
+every one on board. More than once, when the hand-log has shown that
+we were going five knots, I have carried a naked light from one end of
+the deck to the other without its being extinguished.
+
+The sunrise was magnificent, and a splendid albatross, the largest we
+have yet seen, was at the same time visible in mid-air, floating
+against the rose-coloured clouds. He looked so grand, and calm, and
+majestic, that one could almost fancy him the bird of Jove himself,
+descending direct from the sun. Where do these birds rest? How far and
+how fast do they really fly? are questions for the naturalist. We have
+seen them many times at a distance of at least two thousand miles from
+the nearest land.
+
+About nine o'clock there was a slight breeze, but it fell as the sun
+rose, and the day was intensely hot.
+
+_Friday, November 24th_.--A fine breeze in the early morning, which,
+however, gradually died away. Having now quitted the regular track of
+the trade winds and got into the variables, we lighted fires at two
+o'clock. Then another light breeze sprang up for a few minutes, only
+to fall away again immediately, and at six o'clock we commenced to
+steam.
+
+_Saturday, November 25th_.--A very wet morning, the sky clearing at
+about ten, but the weather remaining dull, heavy, hot, and oppressive,
+throughout the day. But we were making good progress under steam,
+which rendered the state of things more endurable than it would
+otherwise have been.
+
+Whilst I was standing on deck at night a flying-fish flew against my
+throat and hung there, caught in the lace of my dress. He is a pretty
+specimen, but only his wings are to be preserved, for Muriel will have
+his body for breakfast to-morrow.
+
+_Sunday, November 26th_.--Our fourth consecutive Sunday at sea, and
+out of sight of land. At 4 a.m. the sails were spread to a good
+breeze. At 7 we stopped steaming, but at 10 the wind again fell light.
+The Litany was read on deck this morning on account of the heat. The
+observations at noon showed that we were in lat. 15 deg. 47' S., long.
+135 deg. 20' W., the distance accomplished during the last twenty-four
+hours being 181 miles. We have now made good 4,067 miles from
+Valparaiso, and are 815 miles distant from Tahiti. At 5 p.m. we had
+prayers and a sermon, also on deck. It was then almost calm, and at
+eight o'clock we again began steaming, in order to insure our making
+the island of Tatakotoroa, 200 miles off, before dark to-morrow.
+
+_Monday, November 27th_.--I was on deck at 3.30 a.m. Everybody on
+board was more or less excited at the prospect of making land, after
+twenty-eight days at sea. It was a delicious morning, with a
+favourable breeze, and under steam and sail we progressed at the rate
+of from 10 to 11-1/2 knots an hour. Several birds flew on board,
+amongst whom were two boobies, who hovered round us and appeared to
+examine everything with great curiosity, especially the little
+wind-vanes at the extremity of the masts. At last they settled on the
+foretopmast, whereupon one of the sailors went up to try and catch
+them. They observed his movements closely, and appeared to be
+specially interested in his cap; but as he approached, first one and
+then the other flew away for a few yards, and then returned to his
+former position. At last the man, watching his opportunity, managed to
+seize one of them by his legs and bring him down in triumph, despite
+flapping wings and pecks from a sharp beak. He was shut up in the
+fowl-pen--now, alas, empty of its proper denizens--where we had an
+opportunity of examining him before he was killed. He was a fine,
+handsome, grey bird, with large blue eyes, and a wild hawk-like look.
+
+At one o'clock we were almost sailing over the spot marked by Findlay
+as the situation of Tatakotopoto, or Anonymous Island; but there was
+nothing whatever visible in the shape of land, even from the masthead,
+where a man was stationed, and from which it was possible to see a
+distance of ten or fifteen miles. Tom went up himself several times
+and scanned the horizon carefully, but in vain. It is therefore
+evident either that the position of the island is incorrectly stated,
+or that it has become submerged. I believe that in these seas there
+are many islands marked that have no existence, and that several that
+do exist are not marked, which renders it necessary to keep a constant
+good look-out. What a charming task it would be thoroughly to survey
+these parts, and to correct the present charts where necessary, and
+how much I should like to be one of the officers appointed for the
+service!
+
+[Illustration: Tatakotoroa or Clarke Island]
+
+At 1.30 p.m. land was sighted from the mast-head, and at two o'clock I
+saw from the deck what looked like plumes of dark ostrich feathers
+rising from the sea. This was the island of Tatakotoroa--also known as
+Narcissus, or Clarke Island--to the eastward of the Paumotu or Low
+Archipelago of the South Seas. The sailing directions describe the
+inhabitants as 'hostile,' and Sir Edward Belcher mentions that some of
+them tried to cut off the boats sent from a man-of-war for water. We
+were therefore afraid to attempt a landing, but sailed as near as we
+could to the shore, which, surrounded by a rampart of snow-white
+coral, and clothed almost to the water's edge with feathery palms,
+cocoa-nut trees, and luxuriant vegetation of various kinds, looked
+very tempting. A few canoes were drawn up on the beach near a large
+hut, out of which three or four natives came, and, having looked at us
+for some time, ran off into the woods. Blue smoke could be seen
+curling up from several points of the forest, no doubt indicating the
+presence of more natives, whose dwellings were concealed by the trees.
+
+[Illustration: Going up the Mast in a Chair.]
+
+[Illustration: Children looking up]
+
+After lunch, Tom had me hoisted up to the foretopmast-head in a
+'boatswain's chair,' which is simply a small plank, suspended by ropes
+at the four corners, and used by the men to sit on when they scrape
+the masts. I was very carefully secured with a rope tied round my
+petticoats, and, knocking against the various ropes on my way, was
+then gently hoisted up to what seemed at first a giddy height; but
+when once I got accustomed to the smallness of the seat, the airiness
+of my perch, and the increased roll of the vessel, I found my position
+by no means an unpleasant one. Tom climbed up the rigging and joined
+me shortly afterwards. From our elevated post we could see plainly the
+formation of the island, and the lagoon in the centre, encircled by a
+band of coral, in some places white, bare, and narrow, in others wide
+and covered with palm-trees and rich vegetation; it was moreover
+possible to understand better the theory of the formation of these
+coral islands. I was so happy up aloft that I did not care to descend;
+and it was almost as interesting to observe what a strange and
+disproportioned appearance everything and everybody on board the yacht
+presented from my novel position, as it was to examine the island we
+were passing. The two younger children and the dogs took the greatest
+interest in my aerial expedition, and never ceased calling to me and
+barking, until I was once more let down safely into their midst. As
+soon as we had seen all we could of the island, fires were banked, and
+we proceeded under sail alone throughout the evening and night.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS.
+
+    _And all throughout the air there reigned the sense_
+    _Of waking dream with luscious thoughts o'erladen,_
+    _Of joy too conscious made and too intense_
+    _By the swift advent of excessive Aiden,_
+    _Bewilderment of beauty's affluence._
+
+
+_Tuesday, November 28th_.--We passed Anaa, or Chain Island, in the
+morning watch, before daybreak. I came on deck to try and get a
+glimpse of it, and was rewarded by a glorious sunrise. We had a nice
+eight-knot breeze and a strong current in our favour, and just before
+breakfast Tom descried from the masthead Amanu, or Moeller Island,
+which we had hardly expected to make before ten or eleven o'clock.
+Some one remarked that it seemed almost as if it had come out to meet
+us. The reef encircling this island varies much in height and
+vegetation. In some places it supports a noble grove of trees, in
+others the sea breaks over the half-submerged coral-bed, the first
+obstacle it has met for 4,000 miles, with a roar like thunder.
+
+Before we had lost sight of Amanu, the island of Hao Harpe, or Bow
+Island, was visible on our port bow. I wished very much to land, and
+at last persuaded Tom, who was rather anxious on the score of the
+natives, to allow some of us to make the attempt, us cautioning to
+turn away from the shore directly, in case the islanders looked at all
+doubtful in their attitude and intentions. After lunch, therefore, we
+hove to, and the gig's crew were ordered to arm themselves with
+revolvers and rifles, which they were not to show unless required to
+do so. All the gentlemen had revolvers, and Mabelle and I were also
+provided with two small ones, Phillips and Muriel being the only
+unarmed members of the party. I took a bag full of beads, knives,
+looking-glasses, and pictures, for barter and presents, and with these
+preparations we set off to make our first personal acquaintance with
+the islanders of the South Pacific. Tom gave us a tow to windward, and
+we then rowed direct to a point on one side of the entrance to the
+lagoon, where we saw some natives waving something white. As we
+approached we could distinguish several figures standing on the point,
+under the shade of some cocoa-nut trees, and on the opposite side of
+the entrance some canoes were drawn up on the beach, by the side of a
+hut, close to a large clump of low trees. We were by this time
+surrounded by breakers, and it required no little skill to steer the
+boat safely through the broken water, between the race of the tide on
+one side, and the overfall from the coral reef on the other. It was
+successfully done, however, and, having rounded the point, we found
+ourselves at once in the waters of the tranquil lagoon. We should have
+preferred to land at the point, had it been possible, as it was
+doubtful whether it would be safe to go round the corner, and so lose
+sight of the yacht; but the intentions of the natives seemed
+peaceable, several of them running into the water up to their waists
+to meet us, while others could be seen hurrying along the beach, the
+women carrying what looked like bunches of fruit.
+
+It is really impossible to describe the beauty of the scene before us.
+Submarine coral forests, of every colour, studded with sea-flowers,
+anemones, and echinidae, of a brilliancy only to be seen in dreamland,
+shoals of the brightest and swiftest fish darting and flashing in and
+out; shells, everyone of which was fit to hold the place of honour in
+a conchologist's collection, moving slowly along with their living
+inmates: this is what we saw when we looked down, from the side of the
+boat, into the depths below. The surface of the water glittered with
+every imaginable tint, from the palest aquamarine to the brightest
+emerald, from the pure light blue of the turquoise to the deep dark
+blue of the sapphire, and was dotted here and there with patches of
+red, brown, and green coral, rising from the mass below. Before us, on
+the shore, there spread the rich growth of tropical vegetation, shaded
+by palms and cocoa-nuts, and enlivened by the presence of native women
+in red, blue, and green garments, and men in motley costumes, bringing
+fish, fowls, and bunches of cocoa-nuts, borne, like the grapes brought
+back from the land of Canaan by the spies, on poles.
+
+As soon as we touched the shore the men rushed forward to meet us, and
+to shake hands, and, having left the muskets and revolvers judiciously
+out of sight in the boat, we were conducted to a cluster of huts, made
+of branches, or rather leaves, of the palm-tree, tied by their
+foot-stalks across two poles, and hanging down to the ground. Here we
+were met by the women and children, who, likewise, all went through
+the ceremony of shaking hands with us, after which the head-woman, who
+was very good-looking, and was dressed in a cherry-coloured calico
+gown, with two long plaits of black hair hanging down her back, spread
+a mat for me to sit upon just outside the hut. By this time there was
+quite a little crowd of people assembled round, amongst whom I noticed
+one woman with a baby, who had her hair sticking straight out all
+round her head, and another who held a portion of her dress constantly
+before her face. After the gentlemen had walked away she removed the
+cloth, and I then saw that her nose had been cut off. Most of the
+women were good-looking, with dark complexions and quantities of
+well-greased, neatly-plaited black hair, but we did not see a single
+young girl, though there were plenty of children and babies, and lots
+of boys, the latter of whom, like some of the older women, had only a
+piece of palm matting round their loins. We therefore came to the
+conclusion that the girls must have been sent away intentionally when
+the approach of the yacht was observed.
+
+[Illustration: Our First Landing in the South Pacific, Hao or Bow
+Island.]
+
+As soon as I was seated, the head-woman told one of the men to knock
+down some cocoa-nuts from the trees close by, and after cutting off
+the ends she offered us a drink of the fresh cool milk, which was all
+the sweeter and better for the fact that the nuts were not nearly
+ripe. While this was going on, the natives brought piles of
+cocoa-nuts, fish, and fowls, and laid them at our feet as a present.
+Some of the fish were of a dark brown colour, like bream, others were
+long and thin, with a pipe-like nose and four fins, somewhat
+resembling the wings of a flying-fish.
+
+Seeing smoke in the distance, rising from under some high palm-trees,
+we thought we should like to go and see whence it proceeded, and
+accordingly set off to walk through a sort of bush, over sharp coral
+that cut one's boots terribly, the sun blazing down upon us fiercely
+all the time, until we reached a little settlement, consisting of
+several huts, the inhabitants of which were absent. Fine plaited mats
+for beds, cocoa-nut shells for cups, mother-of-pearl shells for
+plates, and coral, of various kinds and shapes, for dishes and cooking
+utensils, formed their only furniture. We saw three women, one very
+old, with nothing but a palm-leaf mat as a covering, the others
+dressed in the apparently universal costume, consisting of a long
+bright-coloured gown, put into a yoke at the shoulders, and flowing
+thence loosely to the ground, which completely conceals the wearer's
+form, even to the tips of her toes. I think these dresses must come
+from England or America, for they are evidently machine-made, and the
+cotton-stuft of which they are composed has the most extraordinary
+patterns printed on it I ever saw. Cherry and white, dark blue and
+yellow or white stripes, red with yellow spots, and blue with yellow
+crosses, appear to be the favourite designs. The women seemed gentle
+and kind, and were delighted with some beads, looking-glasses, and
+knives I gave them, in return for which they brought us quantities of
+beautiful shells.
+
+We saw the large iron knee of a vessel in one spot during our walk,
+and wondered how it came there. In another place we saw a canoe in
+process of construction, ingeniously made of boards, sewed together
+with plaited palm-leaves. The canoes in use here are very high, long,
+and narrow, and are only kept from upsetting by means of a tremendous
+outrigger, consisting of a log fastened to the extremity of two bent
+pieces of wood, projecting sideways from each end of the boat. The
+only animals we met with in our ramble were four pigs and a few
+chickens, and no other live stock of any kind was visible. No attempt
+seemed to be made at the cultivation of the ground; and I think, if
+there had been, we must have observed it, for our party separated and
+walked a good distance in various directions.
+
+The natives made us understand that on the other side of the entrance
+to the lagoon, in the better sort of house we had noticed, there
+resided a white man. He did not, however, make his appearance during
+our visit, and I imagine he must have been one of those individuals
+called 'beach-combers,' referred to in so many of the books that treat
+of the South Sea Islands,--a sort of ne'er-do-well Englishman or
+American, rather afraid of meeting any of his own countrymen, but very
+clever at making a bargain between a ship's crew and the natives, with
+considerable profit to himself.
+
+Among the bushes we found numbers of large hermit-crabs, crawling, or
+rather running, about in whelk shells, half a dozen of them
+occasionally having a grand fight amongst themselves. We picked up at
+least twenty different sorts of gracefully shaped pieces of coral, and
+quantities of shells of an infinite variety of form and colour;
+cowries, helmet-shells, the shells from which cameos are sometimes
+cut; mother-of-pearl shells, and a large spiral univalve, nearly a
+foot long, with dark brown spots and stripes on a delicate
+cream-coloured ground, like the skin of a tiger or leopard. On our way
+back to the huts we peeped into several of the canoes drawn up on the
+beach, in which were some fish-spears and a fish-hook, nearly three
+inches long, made of solid mother-of-pearl, the natural curve of the
+shell from which it was cut being preserved. A piece of bone was
+securely fastened to it by means of some pig's hair, but there was no
+bait, and it seems that the glitter of the mother-of-pearl alone
+serves as a sufficient allurement to the fish.
+
+In nearly all accounts of voyages in the South Seas much space is
+devoted to the description of the purchase, or rather barter, of
+hogs. We thought we could not do better than follow as far as possible
+the example of our predecessors, and accordingly bought two little
+pigs for two shillings each. They were evidently quite pets, lying on
+the mats outside the huts, and coming when called, just like dogs. The
+one I first bought appeared to be quite happy and content to be
+carried under my arm. The natives seemed quite to understand the value
+of money, and did not hesitate to ask for it in return for the
+cocoa-nuts full of shells which they brought us. I fancy some of the
+Tahiti schooners trade here for pearl, shells, and beche-de-mer.
+
+The cocoa-nuts, fowls, fish, coral, &c., having been put into our
+boat, we shook hands with the friendly islanders and embarked, and
+having rounded the point we soon found ourselves again in the broken
+water outside the lagoon, where the race of the tide and the overfall
+were now much more violent than they had been when we landed. If we
+had once been drawn into the current, we should have stood a good
+chance of being knocked to pieces on the coral reefs, strong as our
+boat was; but the danger was happily avoided, and we reached the yacht
+safely, much to Tom's relief.
+
+The natives did not exhibit the slightest curiosity about us during
+our visit to the island, and though they received us with courtesy,
+and assisted us as far as they could on our arrival and departure,
+they did not follow us about while on shore, nor, with the exception
+of one or two of them, did they take the trouble to walk across the
+point to see us get into the open sea and join the yacht. In this
+respect they might have given a lesson to many civilised people, so
+gentle, genial, and graceful, yet dignified, were their manners.
+
+The screw having been feathered and the sails set, our voyage was at
+once resumed. A few miles from where we had landed, we saw, high and
+dry on the coral reef skirting the island, a large square-built
+schooner, of about 500 tons, her masts gone, her hull bleached white
+by the sun, and a great hole in her side. She was on the inside of the
+reef, and must therefore either have drifted there from the lagoon, or
+else have been lifted bodily across by one of the big Pacific rollers,
+in some terrible storm. No doubt the iron knee we had seen on the
+island originally formed part of this vessel.
+
+_Wednesday, November 29th_.--We seem to have got into the real
+south-east trades, just as the chart tells us we ought to expect to
+lose them; for there was a strong fair breeze all day, which made it
+very pleasant on deck in the shade of the sails. But it was
+exceedingly hot in the saloon, where some of the woodwork has been
+pulled down, in order to secure better ventilation for the galley and
+the berths of some of the men, who, I hope, appreciate the alteration,
+for it is a source of considerable discomfort to us.
+
+We had the bigger of our two little pigs for dinner to-day, and a
+welcome change it was from the salt and potted meats. He was most
+excellent, and fully corroborated Captain Cook's statement as to the
+superiority of South Sea Island pork to any other--a fact which is
+doubtless due to the pigs being fed entirely on cocoa-nuts and
+bread-fruit. Still it seemed a pity to eat such a tame creature, and I
+mean to try and preserve the other one's life, unless we are much
+longer than we expect in reaching Tahiti. He is only about ten inches
+long, but looks at least a hundred years old, and is altogether the
+most quaint, old-fashioned little object you ever saw. He has taken a
+great fancy to the dogs, and trots about after me with them
+everywhere, on the tips of his little toes, even up and down the steep
+cabin stairs. I call him Agag, because he walks so delicately, whilst
+others accost him as Beau, not only on account of his elegant manners,
+but as being the name of his former home.
+
+The moon was more brilliant this evening than we have yet seen her
+during our voyage, and we could enjoy sitting on deck reading, and
+even doing some coarse needlework, without any other light. One
+splendid meteor flashed across the sky. It was of a light orange
+colour, with a fiery tail about two degrees in extent, and described
+in its course an arc of about sixty degrees, from S.S.E. to N.N.W.,
+before it disappeared into space, far above the horizon. If the night
+had been darker, the spectacle would have been finer; but even as it
+was, the moon seemed quite paled for a few minutes afterwards. We have
+seen many meteors, falling-stars, and shooting-stars since we left
+Valparaiso, but none so fine as the one this evening.
+
+_Friday, December 1st_.--The sun rose grandly, but the heavy black and
+red clouds, looking like flames and smoke from a furnace, gave promise
+of more rain. The heat was greater to-day than any we have yet felt;
+and it is now nearly mid-winter at home.
+
+[Illustration: Maitea.]
+
+At 5 a.m. we made the island of Maitea, and expected to reach it in
+about an hour and a half; but the wind fell light, and it was a
+quarter to ten before we got into the gig and set out for the shore.
+There are not many instructions about landing, either in Captain Cook
+or Findlay, but the latter mentions that houses are to be found on the
+south side of the island. We thought, however, we could distinguish
+from the yacht a little cove, close to some huts, at another part of
+the shore, where the surf did not break so heavily. We accordingly
+rowed straight for it, and as we approached we could see the natives
+coming down from all parts to meet us, the women dressed in the same
+sort of long, bright, flowing garments we had seen at Hao Harpe, with
+the addition of garlands round their necks and heads, the men wearing
+gay-coloured loin-cloths, shirts of Manchester cotton stuff, flying
+loose in the wind, and sailors' hats with garlands round them, or
+coloured silk handkerchiefs--red and orange evidently having the
+preference--tied over their heads and jauntily knotted on one side.
+Several of the men waded out into the surf to meet us, sometimes
+standing on a rock two feet above the water, sometimes buried up to
+their necks by a sudden wave. But the rocks were sharp, the only
+available passage was narrow, and the rollers long and high; and
+altogether it looked, upon a closer inspection, too unpromising a
+place to attempt a landing. Much to the disappointment of the natives,
+therefore, we decided to go round and try the other side of the
+island. Seeing us prepare to depart, the people on shore immediately
+launched a tiny canoe, with an enormous outrigger, and a man dressed
+in a pale green shirt, dark blue and yellow under garment, and with a
+silk handkerchief and garland on his head, came alongside and made
+signs that he would take us ashore one by one in his frail-looking
+craft. But the heavy Pacific rollers and the sharp rocks daunted us,
+and we declined his offer with thanks, and rowed off to the southward.
+Anything more enticing than the cove we were quitting can hardly be
+imagined. A fringe of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit trees, overhanging an
+undergrowth of bright glossy foliage and flowers, a few half-hidden
+palm-leaf covered huts, from one of which--I suppose the chief's--a
+tattered Tahitian flag floated in the breeze, a small schooner drawn
+up among the trees and carefully covered with mats, the steep
+sugar-loaf point, at the entrance to the cove, clothed to its summit
+with grass and vegetation: these were the objects which attracted our
+attention in our hurried survey of the scene.
+
+[Illustration: Our Boatman]
+
+We had to give the island a wide berth in rowing round it, on account
+of the heavy rollers, which seemed to come from every side, breaking
+in surf against the dark brown cliffs, and throwing columns of white
+spray, from which the brilliant sunshine was reflected in rainbow
+hues, high into the air. As we proceeded matters looked worse and
+worse, and the motion of the boat became so disagreeable that both
+Muriel and I were very ill. At last we came to a spot where we could
+see some people sitting on the shore, and several others, who had
+probably come over from the other side to meet us, running swiftly
+down the sides of the cliffs to the beach. The island was of a
+different character from the one we had already visited, and was
+evidently of volcanic origin. No coral was anywhere to be seen, but
+there were big rocks jutting out at intervals into the sea all round
+it, one of which seemed large enough to afford us a sort of shelter in
+landing. The natives waved and pointed towards the channel beyond this
+rock, and one or two swam out to meet us; but we soon found that the
+channel would not be wide enough to admit our big boat, though it was
+no doubt sufficient for a light canoe, drawing some two inches of
+water. We therefore reluctantly turned away and resumed our uneasy
+coasting voyage, in the course of which we passed some nearly leafless
+trees, full of white patches, too large for flowers, which afterwards
+turned out to be booby-birds, who here find a resting-place. They are
+so numerous that it is hardly possible to walk beneath the trees
+without treading on their eggs.
+
+Having completed the circuit of the island, we found ourselves once
+more opposite the spot where we had first thought of landing, and the
+tide being by this time a little higher, we decided to make another
+attempt. Some of the natives, seeing us approach, plunged into the
+water as before, and seized the gunwale of the boat, while others, on
+shore, brought down rollers to put beneath our keel. We went in on the
+top of a big wave, and thus at last found ourselves--boat and
+all--high and dry on the beach of Maitea.
+
+The people came down to meet us, and conducted us to the house of the
+chief, who, with his pretty wife, received us kindly, but with much
+gravity and dignity. Mats were placed for me to sit upon, wreaths were
+offered me for my head and neck, and cocoa-nut milk to drink. We
+wished for some bananas, and they immediately cut down a tree in order
+to obtain a bunch. Cocoa-nuts were at the same time thrown down from
+the trees, and a collection of fruit, poultry, and meat--the latter
+consisting of the immemorial hog--was laid at our feet, as a present
+from the chief. The rest of the natives brought us pearls, shells,
+mother-of-pearl, small canoes, fish-hooks, young boobies, and all
+sorts of things, for barter; but the chief himself refused any return
+for his gift. Perhaps the greatest curiosity they offered us was about
+six fathoms of fine twine, made from human hair. Before these islands
+were visited by Europeans, this was the material from which
+fishing-lines were made; but it is now rarely used, and is
+consequently very difficult to procure. The young boobies they brought
+us looked just like a white powder-puff, and were covered with down
+far thicker and softer than any swan's down I ever saw.
+
+The natives seemed quite _au fait_ in the matter of monetary
+transactions and exchanges. For an English sovereign they would give
+you change at the rate of five dollars. Chilian or United States'
+dollars they accepted readily, but Brazilian currency they would not
+look at. They were pleased with knives, beads, looking-glasses, and
+picture papers I had brought on shore, and we did a brisk trade. We
+experienced great difficulty in explaining to them that we wanted some
+fresh eggs, Muriel's especial fancy, and a luxury which we have been
+without for some time. At last, by pointing to the fowls and picking
+up some small egg-shaped stones, we managed to procure a few, though,
+from the time it took to collect them, I should think the island must
+have been scoured in the search for them.
+
+Most of the natives seemed puzzled to comprehend why we had visited
+the island at all. 'No sell brandy?'--'No.' 'No stealy men?'--'No.'
+'No do what then?' Their knowledge of English was too limited to
+enable us to make them understand that we were only making a voyage of
+circumnavigation in a yacht.
+
+It was now time to bid farewell to our amiable hosts and their
+beautiful island. As we reached the landing-place, a small schooner,
+which we had previously noticed in the distance, came close to the
+shore, and a canoe put off from the island to meet it. We found that
+the vessel was bringing back from Tahiti and other places some of the
+inhabitants of the island, who had been away on a visit or in search
+of work. The meeting of the reunited friends and relatives was in
+some cases quite touching. Two women, in particular, sat and embraced
+each other for nearly a quarter of an hour, without moving, but with
+tears running down their faces.
+
+All our gifts and purchases having been placed in the boat, and one or
+two of us having embarked, she was shoved out over the wooden rollers
+into the narrow channel, where she lay-to while the rest of the party
+were brought alongside, one by one, in a frail canoe--an operation
+which occupied some time, during which we had leisure once more to
+admire the little bay I have already attempted to describe. We asked
+the captain of the schooner, who spoke French, to give us a tow off to
+the yacht, which he willingly consented to do, chatting cheerfully all
+the time, but evidently fearful of approaching too close to the yacht,
+and positively refusing our invitation to him to come on board. There
+can be little doubt that he mistrusted our intentions, and feared we
+might attempt to kidnap him and his crew; for the whites have, in too
+many cases, behaved in a most villanous manner to the inhabitants of
+these islands, who are, as a rule--to which there are of course
+exceptions--a kind and gentle people. I think if the many instances of
+the murder of ships' and boats' crews could be thoroughly sifted to
+the bottom, it would be found that most of them were acts of reprisal
+and revenge for brutal atrocities committed on the defenceless
+natives, who have been kidnapped, plundered, and murdered by
+unscrupulous traders and adventurers. Unfortunately, the good suffer
+for the bad, and such lives as those of Captain Goodenough and Bishop
+Patteson are sacrificed through the unpardonable misconduct of
+others--perhaps their own countrymen. It is still quite a chance how
+you may be received in some of the islands; for if the visit of the
+last ship was the occasion of the murder, plunder, and ill-treatment
+of the inhabitants, it is not to be wondered at that the next comers
+should be received with distrust, if not with treachery and violence.
+
+We reached the yacht at four o'clock, rather exhausted by so many
+hours' exposure to the broiling sun, having had nothing to eat since
+breakfast, at 7 a.m., except cocoa-nuts and bananas. The ship was put
+about, the sails filled, and, continuing steadily on our course
+throughout the evening, we made the smaller of the two peninsulas that
+form the island of Tahiti at 10.30 p.m.
+
+_Saturday, December 2nd_. We were dodging on and off all night, and at
+daybreak the weather was thick and rainy. At 4.30 a.m. we made the
+land again, and crept slowly along it, past Point Venus and the
+lighthouse in Matavai Bay (Captain Cook's first anchorage), until we
+were off the harbour of Papeete.[8] The rain was now descending in
+torrents, and we lay-to outside the reef for a short time, until a
+French pilot came on board and took us in through the narrow entrance.
+It was curious, while we were tumbling about in the rough sea outside,
+to see the natives placidly fishing in the tiniest of canoes on the
+lagoon inside the reef, the waves beating all the time furiously on
+the outer surface of the coral breakwater, as if anxious to seize and
+engulf them.
+
+[Footnote 8: 'Papiete' or 'Papeete,' _a bag of water_.]
+
+At nine o'clock we were safely anchored in the chief port of the
+island of Tahiti.
+
+Perhaps I cannot better bring this account of our long voyage from
+Valparaiso to a conclusion than by a quotation from a charming book,
+given to me at Rio, which I have lately been reading Baron de Hubner's
+'Promenade autour du Monde:'--'Les jours se suivent et se ressemblent.
+Sauf le court episode du mauvais temps, ces trois semaines me font
+l'effet d'un charmant reve, d'un conte de fee, d'une promenade
+imaginaire a travers une salle immense, tout or et lapis-lazuli. Pas
+un moment d'ennui ou d'impatience. Si vous voulez abreger les
+longueurs d'une grande traversee, distribuez bien votre temps, et
+observez le reglement que vous vous etes impose. C'est un moyen sur de
+se faire promptement a la vie claustrale et meme d'en jouir.'
+
+We have been five weeks at sea, and have enjoyed them quite as much as
+the Baron did his three. We saw but two ships between Valparaiso and
+Tatakotoroa: he saw only one between San Francisco and Yokohama. It is
+indeed a vast and lonely ocean that we have traversed.
+
+[Illustration: Quarantine Island, Papeete]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+AT TAHITI.
+
+    _The cava feast, the yam, the cocoa's root,_
+    _Which bears at once the cup, and milk, and fruit,_
+    _The bread-tree which, without the ploughshare, yields_
+    _The unreap'd harvest of unfurrowed fields._
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+    _These, with the luxuries of seas and woods,_
+    _The airy joys of social solitudes,_
+    _Tamed each rude wanderer._
+
+
+[Illustration: Under the Trees, Papeete]
+
+_Saturday, December 2nd_.--The anchor was dropped in the harbour of
+Papeete at nine o'clock, and a couple of hours later, by which time
+the weather had cleared, we went ashore, and at once found ourselves
+in the midst of a fairy-like scene, to describe which is almost
+impossible, so bewildering is it in the brightness and variety of its
+colouring. The magnolias and yellow and scarlet hibiscus,
+overshadowing the water, the velvety turf, on to which one steps from
+the boat, the white road running between rows of wooden houses, whose
+little gardens are a mass of flowers, the men and women clad in the
+gayest robes and decked with flowers, the piles of unfamiliar fruit
+lying on the grass, waiting to be transported to the coasting vessels
+in the harbour, the wide-spreading background of hills clad in verdure
+to their summits--these are but a few of the objects which greet the
+new-comer in his first contact with the shore.
+
+We strolled about, and left our letters of introduction; but the
+people to whom they were addressed were at breakfast, and we were
+deliberating how best to dispose of our time, when a gentleman
+accosted us, and, seeing how new it all was to us strangers, offered
+to show us round the town.
+
+The streets of Papeete, running back at right angles with the beach,
+seem to have wonderfully grand names, such as the Rue de Rivoli, Rue
+de Paris, &c. Every street is shaded by an avenue of high trees, whose
+branches meet and interlace overhead, forming a sort of leafy tunnel,
+through which the sea-breeze passes refreshingly. There is also what
+is called the Chinamen's quarter, through which we walked, and which
+consists of a collection of regular Chinese-built bamboo houses, whose
+occupants all wore their national costume, pigtail included. The
+French commandant lives in a charming residence, surrounded by
+gardens, just opposite the palace of Queen Pomare, who is at present
+at the island of Bola-Bola, taking care of her little grandchild, aged
+five, the queen of the island. She went down in a French man-of-war,
+the 'Limier,' ten days ago, and has been obliged to remain, owing to
+some disturbances amongst the natives. I am rather disappointed that
+she is absent, as I should like to see a person of whom I have heard
+so much.
+
+Having completed our tour, we next went to call on the British Consul,
+who received us kindly, and entertained us with an interesting account
+of the island and its inhabitants, its pearl-fisheries and trade, the
+French policy, the missionaries, &c., on all of which subjects he is
+well informed. He has just completed an exhaustive consular report on
+the condition of the island, which will, no doubt, appear in due
+course in the form of a blue-book.
+
+On our return to Messrs. Brander's office, where we had left one of
+our letters of introduction, we found the manager, with whom we had a
+long chat before returning on board.
+
+[Illustration: Chaetodon Tricolor.]
+
+At 5 p.m. we went for a row in the 'Glance' and the 'Flash' to the
+coral reef, now illumined by the rays of the setting sun. Who can
+describe these wonderful gardens of the deep, on which we now gazed
+through ten and twenty fathoms of crystal water? Who can enumerate or
+describe the strange creatures moving about and darting hither and
+thither, amid the masses of coral forming their submarine home? There
+were shells of rare shape, brighter than if they had been polished by
+the hand of the most skilful artist; crabs of all sizes, scuttling and
+sidling along; sea-anemones, spreading their delicate feelers in
+search of prey; and many other kinds of zoophytes, crawling slowly
+over the reef; and scarlet, blue, yellow, gold, violet, spotted,
+striped, and winged fish, short, long, pointed, and blunt, of the
+most varied shapes, were darting about like birds among the coral
+trees.
+
+At last, after frequent stoppages, to allow time for admiration, we
+reached the outer reef, hauled the boat up and made her fast, and, in
+bathing shoes, started on a paddling expedition. Such a paddle it was,
+too, over the coral, the surf breaking far above our heads, and the
+underflow, though only a few inches deep, nearly carrying me and the
+children off our legs! There were one or two native fishermen walking
+along the reef, whipping the water; but they appeared to have caught
+only a few small rock-fish, pretty enough to look at, but not
+apparently good to eat.
+
+The shades of night compelled us to return to the yacht, laden with
+corals of many different species. After dinner the bay was illuminated
+by the torches of the native fishermen, in canoes, on the reef. Tom
+and I went to look at them, but did not see them catch anything. Each
+canoe contained at least three people, one of whom propelled the boat,
+another stood up waving about a torch dipped in some resinous
+substance, which threw a strong light on the water, while the third
+stood in the bows, armed with a spear, made of a bundle of wires, tied
+to a long pole, not at all unlike a gigantic egg-whip, with all its
+loops cut into points. This is aimed with great dexterity at the fish,
+who are either transfixed or jammed between the prongs. The fine
+figures of the natives, lighted up by the flickering torches, and
+standing out in bold relief against the dark blue starlit sky, would
+have served as models for the sculptors of ancient Greece.
+
+_Sunday, December 3rd_.--At a quarter to five this morning some of us
+landed to see the market, this being the great day when the natives
+come in from the country and surrounding villages, by sea and by land,
+in boats, or on horseback, to sell their produce, and buy necessaries
+for the coming week. We walked through the shady streets to the two
+covered market buildings, partitioned across with great bunches of
+oranges, plantains, and many-coloured vegetables, hung on strings. The
+mats, beds, and pillows still lying about suggested the idea that the
+salesmen and women had passed the night amongst their wares. The gaily
+attired, good-looking, flower-decorated crowd, of some seven or eight
+hundred people, all chatting and laughing, and some staring at us--but
+not rudely--looked much more like a chorus of opera-singers, dressed
+for their parts in some grand spectacle, than ordinary market-going
+peasants. Whichever way one turned, the prospect was an animated and
+attractive one. Here, beneath the shade of large, smooth, light-green
+banana leaves, was a group of earnest bargainers for mysterious-looking
+fish, luscious fruit, and vegetables; there, sheltered by a drooping
+mango, whose rich clusters of purple and orange fruit hung in tempting
+proximity to lips and hands, another little crowd was similarly
+engaged. Orange-trees were evidently favourite _rendezvous_; and a row
+of flower-sellers had established themselves in front of a hedge of
+scarlet hibiscus and double Cape jasmine. Every vendor carried his
+stock-in-trade, however small the articles composing it might be, on a
+bamboo pole, across his shoulder, occasionally with rather ludicrous
+effect, as, for instance, when the thick but light pole supported only
+a tiny fish six inches long at one end, and two mangoes at the other.
+Everybody seemed to have brought to market just what he or she
+happened to have on hand, however small the quantity. The women would
+have one, two, or three new-laid eggs in a leaf basket, one crab or
+lobster, three or four prawns, or one little trout. Under these
+circumstances, marketing for so large a party as ours was a somewhat
+lengthy operation, and I was much amused in watching our _proveedor_,
+as he went about collecting things by ones and twos, until he had
+piled a little cart quite full, and had had it pushed off to the shady
+quay.
+
+[Illustration: Chaetodon Plagmance]
+
+We strolled about until six o'clock, at which hour the purchasers
+began to disperse, and were just preparing to depart likewise, when an
+old man, carrying half-a-dozen little fish, and followed by a small
+boy laden with vegetables and fruit, introduced himself to us as the
+brother-in-law of Queen Pomare IV. and chief of Papeete, and, after a
+short talk, invited us to visit him at his house. We consented, and,
+following him, presently reached a break in the hedge and ditch that
+ran along the side of the road, beyond which was a track, bordered by
+pineapples and dracaenas, leading to a superior sort of house, built in
+the native style, and surrounded, as usual, by bread-fruit, cocoa-nut,
+banana, mango, and guava trees. We were conducted into the one large
+room, which contained two four-post bedsteads and four mattresses,
+laid on the floor, two or three trunks, and a table in the corner, on
+which were writing materials and a few books. The chief himself spoke
+a very little English, his son an equally small amount of French; so
+the conversation languished, and after a decent interval we rose to
+depart. Our host asked if he might 'come and see my ship,' and
+procured pen, ink, and paper--not of the best quality--for me to write
+an order for him do so, 'in case lady not at home.' He also presented
+me with some pictures of soldiers, drawn by his son--a boy about
+eleven years old, of whom he seemed very proud, and expressed his
+regret that we could not prolong our stay, at the same time placing at
+our disposal the whole house and garden, including a fat sow and
+eleven little pigs.
+
+Several other visitors had arrived by this time, one of whom was on
+horseback, and, as I was rather tired, he was asked if he would kindly
+allow me to ride down to the landing place. He replied that he would
+lend the horse to a gentleman, but not to me, as the saddle was not
+suitable. I explained that this made no difference to me, and mounted,
+though I did not attempt to follow the fashion of the native ladies
+here, who ride like men. Our new friend was quite delighted at this,
+and volunteered himself to show us something of the neighbourhood.
+Accordingly, leading my--or rather his--horse, and guiding him
+carefully over all the rough places, he took us through groves and
+gardens to the grounds belonging to the royal family, in which were
+plantations of various kinds of trees, and a thick undergrowth of
+guava. After an enjoyable little expedition we returned to the yacht
+at about half-past seven, accompanied by the small boy who had been
+carrying our special purchases from the market all this time, and by a
+little tail of followers.
+
+At half-past eight we breakfasted, so as to be ready for the service
+at the native church at ten o'clock; but several visitors arrived in
+the interval, and we had rather a bustle to get off in time, after
+all. We landed close to the church, under the shade of an hibiscus,
+whose yellow and orange flowers dropped off into the sea and floated
+away amongst the coral rocks, peeping out of the water here and there.
+The building appeared to be full to overflowing. The windows and doors
+were all wide open, and many members of the congregation were seated
+on the steps, on the lawn, and on the grassy slope beyond, listening
+to a discourse in the native language. Most of the people wore the
+native costume, which, especially when made of black stuff and
+surmounted by a little sailor's hat, decorated with a bandana
+handkerchief or a wreath of flowers, was very becoming. Sailors' hats
+are universally worn, and are generally made by the natives themselves
+from plantain or palm leaves, or from the inside fibre of the
+arrowroot. Some rather elderly men and women in the front rows were
+taking notes of the sermon. I found afterwards that they belonged to
+the Bible class, and that their great pride was to meet after the
+service and repeat by heart nearly all they had heard. This seems to
+show at least a desire to profit by the minister's efforts.
+
+After the usual service there were two christenings. The babies were
+held at the font by the men, who looked extremely sheepish. One baby
+was grandly attired in a book-muslin dress, with flounces, a tail at
+least six feet long dragging on the ground, and a lace cap with
+cherry-coloured bows; the other was nearly as smart, in a white-worked
+long frock and cap, trimmed with blue bows. The christenings over,
+there was a hymn, somewhat monotonous as to time and tune, but sung
+with much fervour, followed by the administration of the sacrament, in
+which cocoa-nut milk took the place of wine, and bread-fruit that of
+bread. The proper elements were originally used, but experience proved
+that, although the bread went round pretty well, the cup was almost
+invariably emptied by the first two or three communicants, sometimes
+with unfortunate results.
+
+After service we drove through the shady avenues of the town into the
+open country, past trim little villas and sugar-cane plantations,
+until we turned off the main road, and entered an avenue of mangoes,
+whence a rough road, cut through a guava thicket, leads to the main
+gate of Faataua[9]--a regular square Indian bungalow, with thatched
+roofs, verandahs covered with creepers, windows opening to the ground,
+and steps leading to the gardens on every side, ample accommodation
+for stables, kitchens, servants, being provided in numerous
+outbuildings.
+
+[Footnote 9: 'Fuatawah' or 'Faataua,' _to make friends_.]
+
+Soon after breakfast, Mrs. Brander dressed me in one of her own native
+costumes, and we drove to the outskirts of a dense forest, through
+which a footpath leads to the waterfall and fort of Faataua. Here we
+found horses waiting for us, on which we rode, accompanied by the
+gentlemen on foot, through a thick growth of palms, orange-trees,
+guavas, and other tropical trees, some of which were overhung and
+almost choked by luxuriant creepers. Specially noticeable among the
+latter was a gorgeous purple passion-flower, with orange-coloured
+fruit as big as pumpkins, that covered everything with its vigorous
+growth. The path was always narrow and sometimes steep, and we had
+frequently almost to creep under the overhanging boughs, or to turn
+aside to avoid a more than usually dense mass of creepers. We crossed
+several small rivers, and at last reached a spot that commanded a view
+of the waterfall, on the other side of a deep ravine. Just below the
+fort that crowns the height, a river issues from a narrow cleft in the
+rock, and falls at a single bound from the edge of an almost
+perpendicular cliff, 600 feet high, into the valley beneath. First one
+sees the rush of blue water, gradually changing in its descent to a
+cloud of white spray, which in its turn is lost in a rainbow of mist.
+Imagine that from beneath the shade of feathery palms and broad-leaved
+bananas through a network of ferns and creepers you are looking upon
+the Staubbach, in Switzerland, magnified in height, and with a
+background of verdure-clad mountains, and you will have some idea of
+the fall of Faataua as we beheld it.
+
+[Illustration: Waterfall at Faataua]
+
+After resting a little while and taking some sketches, we climbed up
+to the fort itself, a place of considerable interest, where the
+natives held out to the very last against the French. On the bank
+opposite the fort, the last islander killed during the struggle for
+independence was shot while trying to escape. Situated in the centre
+of a group of mountains, with valleys branching off in all directions,
+the fort could hold communication with every part of the coast, and
+there can be little doubt that it would have held out much longer than
+it did, but for the treachery of one of the garrison, who led the
+invaders, under cover of the night, and by devious paths, to the top
+of a hill commanding the position. Now the ramparts and earthworks are
+overrun and almost hidden by roses. Originally planted, I suppose, by
+the new-comers, they have spread rapidly in all directions, till the
+hill-sides and summits are quite a-blush with the fragrant bloom.
+
+Having enjoyed some strawberries and some icy cold water from a
+spring, and heard a long account of the war from the _gardiens_, we
+found it was time to commence our return journey, as it was now
+getting late. We descended much more quickly than we had come up, but
+daylight had faded into the brief tropical twilight, and that again
+into the shades of night, ere we reached the carriage.
+
+Dinner and evening service brought the day to a conclusion, and I
+retired, not unwillingly, to bed, to dream of the charms of Tahiti.
+
+Sometimes I think that all I have seen must be only a long vision, and
+that too soon I shall awaken to the cold reality; the flowers, the
+fruit, the colours worn by every one, the whole scene and its
+surroundings, seem almost too fairylike to have an actual existence. I
+am in despair when I attempt to describe all these things. I feel that
+I cannot do anything like justice to their merits, and yet I fear all
+the time that what I say may be looked upon as an exaggeration.
+
+    Long dreamy lawns, and birds on happy wings,
+      Keeping their homes in never-rifled bowers;
+    Cool fountains filling with their murmurings
+      The sunny silence 'twixt the chiming hours.
+
+At daybreak next morning, when I went on deck, it was a dead calm. The
+sea-breeze had not yet come in, and there was not a ripple on the
+surface of the harbour. Outside, two little white trading schooners
+lay becalmed; inside, the harbour-tug was getting up steam. On shore,
+a few gaily dressed natives were hurrying home with their early market
+produce, and others were stretched lazily on the grass at the water's
+edge or on the benches under the trees. Our stores for the day, a
+picturesque-looking heap of fish, fruit, vegetables, and flowers, were
+on the steps, waiting to be brought off, and guarded in the meantime
+by natives in costumes of pink, blue, orange, and a delicate pale
+green they specially affect. The light mists rolled gradually away
+from the mountain tops, and there was every prospect of a fine day for
+a projected excursion.
+
+I went ashore to fetch some of the fresh gathered fruit, and soon we
+had a feast of luscious pineapples, juicy mangoes, bananas, and
+oranges, with the dew still upon them. The mango is certainly the king
+of fruit. Its flavour is a combination of apricot and pineapple, with
+the slightest possible suspicion of turpentine thrown in, to give a
+piquancy to the whole. I dare say it sounds a strange mixture, but I
+can only say that the result is delicious. To enjoy mangoes thoroughly
+you ought not to eat them in company, but leaning over the side of the
+ship, in the early morning, with your sleeves tucked up to your
+elbows, using no knife and fork, but tearing off the skin with your
+teeth, and sucking the abundant juice.
+
+We breakfasted at half-past six, and, at a little before eight, went
+ashore, where we were met by a sort of _char-a-bancs_, or American
+wagon, with three seats, one behind the other, all facing the horses,
+and roomy and comfortable enough for two persons. Our Transatlantic
+cousins certainly understand thoroughly, and do their best to improve
+everything connected with, the locomotion they love so well. A Chinese
+coachman and a thin but active pair of little horses completed the
+turn-out. Mabelle sat beside the coachman, and we four packed into,
+the other two seats, with all our belongings.
+
+The sun was certainly _very_ powerful when we emerged from the shady
+groves of Papeete, but there was a nice breeze, and sometimes we got
+under the shade of cocoa-nut trees. We reached Punauia at about
+half-past nine, and changed horses there. While waiting, hot and
+thirsty, under the shelter of some trees, we asked for a cocoa-nut,
+whereupon a man standing by immediately tied a withy of banana leaves
+round his feet and proceeded to climb, or rather hop, up the nearest
+tree, raising himself with his two hands and his feet alternately,
+with an exactly similar action to that of our old friend the monkey on
+the stick. People who have tasted the cocoa-nut only in England can
+have no idea what a delicious fruit it really is when nearly ripe and
+freshly plucked. The natives remove the outer husk, just leaving a
+little piece to serve as a foot for the pale brown cup to rest on.
+They then smooth off the top, and you have an elegant vase, something
+like a mounted ostrich egg in appearance, lined with the snowiest
+ivory, and containing about three pints of cool sweet water. Why it is
+called milk I cannot understand, for it is as clear as crystal, and is
+always cool and refreshing, though the nut in which it is contained
+has generally been exposed to the fiercest sun. In many of the coral
+islands, where the water is brackish, the natives drink scarcely
+anything but cocoa-nut milk; and even here, if you are thirsty and ask
+for a glass of water, you are almost always presented with a cocoa-nut
+instead.
+
+From Punauia onwards the scenery increased in beauty, and the foliage
+was, if possible, more luxuriant than ever. The road ran through
+extensive coffee, sugar-cane, Indian corn, orange, cocoa-nut, and
+cotton plantations, and vanilla, carefully trained on bamboos, growing
+in the thick shade. Near Atimaono we passed the house of a great
+cotton planter, and, shortly afterwards, the curious huts, raised on
+platforms, built by some islanders he has imported from the Kingsmill
+group to work his plantations. They are a wild, savage-looking set,
+very inferior to the Tahitians in appearance. The cotton-mills, which
+formerly belonged to a company, are now all falling to ruin; and in
+many other parts of the island we passed cotton plantations uncleaned
+and neglected, and fast running to seed and waste. So long as the
+American war lasted, a slight profit could be made upon Tahitian
+cotton, but now it is hopeless to attempt to cultivate it with any
+prospect of adequate return.
+
+The sun was now at its height, and we longed to stop and bathe in one
+of the many fresh-water streams we crossed, and afterwards to eat our
+lunch by the wayside; but our Chinese coachman always pointed onwards,
+and said, 'Eatee much presently; horses eatee too.' At last we arrived
+at a little house, shaded by cocoa-nut trees, and built in an
+enclosure near the sea-shore, with 'Restaurant' written up over the
+door. We drove in, and were met by the proprietor, with what must have
+been rather an embarrassing multiplicity of women and children about
+his heels. The cloth was not laid, but the rooms looked clean, and
+there was a heap of tempting-looking fish and fruit in a corner. We
+assured him we were starving, and begged for luncheon as soon as
+possible; and, in the meantime, went for a dip in the sea. But the
+water was shallow, and the sun made the temperature at least 90 deg., so
+that our bath was not very refreshing. On our return we found the
+table most enticingly laid out, with little scarlet crayfish, embedded
+in cool green lettuce leaves, fruit of various kinds, good wine and
+fair bread, all arranged on a clean though coarse tablecloth. There
+was also a savoury omelette, so good that Tom asked for a second;
+when, to our astonishment, there appeared a plump roast fowl, with
+most artistic gravy and fried potatoes. Then came a _biftek aux
+champignons_, and some excellent coffee to wind up with. On making the
+host our compliments, he said, 'Je fais la cuisine moi-meme, Madame.'
+In the course of our repast we again tasted the bread-fruit, but did
+not much appreciate it, though it was this time cooked in the native
+fashion--roasted underground by means of hot stones.
+
+Our coachman was becoming impatient, so we bade farewell to our host,
+and resumed our journey. We crossed innumerable streams on our way,
+generally full not only of water, but also of bathers; for the
+Tahitians are very fond of water, and always bathe once or twice a day
+in the fresh streams, even after having been in the sea.
+
+In many places along the road people were making hay from short grass,
+and in others they were weighing it preparatory to sending it into
+town. But they say the grass grown here is not at all nourishing for
+horses, and some people import it from Valparaiso.
+
+The road round the island is called the Broom Road. Convicts were
+employed in its original formation, and now it is the punishment for
+any one getting drunk in any part of the island to be set to work to
+sweep, repair, and keep in order a piece of the road in the
+neighbourhood of his dwelling. It is the one good road of Tahiti,
+encircling the larger of the two peninsulas close to the sea-shore,
+and surmounting the low mountain range in the centre of the isthmus.
+
+Before long we found ourselves close to Taravao, the narrow strip of
+land connecting the two peninsulas into which Tahiti is divided, and
+commenced to ascend the hills that form the backbone of the island. We
+climbed up and up, reaching the summit at last, to behold a
+magnificent prospect on all sides. Then a short sharp descent, a long
+drive over grass roads through a rich forest, and again a brief
+ascent, brought us to our sleeping-quarters for the night, the Hotel
+de l'Isthme, situated in a valley in the midst of a dense grove of
+cocoa-nuts and bananas, kept by two retired French sailors, who came
+out to meet us, and conducted us up a flight of steps on the side of a
+mud bank to the four rooms forming the hotel. These were two sleeping
+apartments, a _salon_, and a _salle a manger_, the walls of which
+consisted of flat pieces of wood, their own width apart, something
+like Venetian shutters, with unglazed windows and doors opening into
+the garden.
+
+We walked about four hundred yards along a grassy road to the sea,
+where Mabelle and I paddled about in shallow water and amused
+ourselves by picking up coral, shells, and _beche-de-mer_, and
+watching the blue and yellow fish darting in and out among the rocks,
+until at last we found a place in the coral which made a capital
+deep-water bath. Dressing again was not such a pleasant affair, owing
+to the mosquitoes biting us in the most provoking manner. Afterwards
+we strolled along the shore, which was covered with cocoa-nuts and
+driftwood, washed thither, I suppose, from some of the adjacent
+islands, and on our way back to the hotel we gathered a handful of
+choice exotics and graceful ferns, with which to decorate the table.
+
+The dinner itself really deserves a detailed description, if only to
+show that one may make the tour of Tahiti without necessarily having
+to rough it in the matter of food. We had crayfish and salad as a
+preliminary, and next, an excellent soup followed by delicious little
+oysters, that cling to the boughs and roots of the guava and mangrove
+trees overhanging the sea. Then came a large fish, name unknown, the
+inevitable _bouilli_ and cabbage, _cotelettes aux pommes, biftek aux
+champignons_, succeeded by crabs and other shellfish, including
+_wurrali_, a delicate-flavoured kind of lobster, an _omelette aux
+abricots_, and dessert of tropical fruits. We were also supplied with
+good wine, both red and white, and bottled beer.
+
+I ought, in truth, to add that the cockroaches were rather lively and
+plentiful, but they did not form a serious drawback to our enjoyment.
+After dinner, however, when I went to see Mabelle to bed, hundreds of
+these creatures, about three inches long, and broad in proportion,
+scuttled away as I lighted the candle; and while we were sitting
+outside we could see troops of them marching up and down in rows
+between the crevices of the walls. Then there were the mosquitoes, who
+hummed and buzzed about us, and with whom, alas! we were doomed to
+make a closer acquaintance. Our bed was fitted with the very thickest
+calico mosquito curtains, impervious to the air, but not to the
+venomous little insects, who found their way in through every tiny
+opening in spite of all our efforts to exclude them.
+
+_Tuesday, December 5th_.--The heat in the night was suffocating, and
+soon after twelve o'clock we both woke up, feeling half-stifled. There
+was a dim light shining into the room, and Tom said, 'Thank goodness,
+it's getting daylight;' but on striking my repeater we found to our
+regret that this was a mistake. In the moonlight I could see columns
+of nasty brown cockroaches ascending the bedposts, crawling along the
+top of the curtains, dropping with a thud on to the bed, and then
+descending over the side to the ground. At last I could stand it no
+longer, and opening the curtains cautiously, I seized my slippers,
+knocked half-a-dozen brown beasts out of each, wrapped myself in a
+poncho--previously well shaken--gathered my garments around me,
+surmounted a barricade I had constructed overnight to keep the pigs
+and chickens out of our doorless room, and fled to the garden. All was
+still, the only sign of life being a light in a neighbouring hut, and
+I sat out in the open air in comparative comfort, until driven indoors
+again by torrents of rain, at about half-past two o'clock.
+
+I plunged into bed again, taking several mosquitoes with me, which
+hummed and buzzed and devoured us to their hearts' content till dawn.
+Then I got up and walked down to the beach to bathe, and returned to
+breakfast at six o'clock, refreshed but still disfigured.
+
+It is now the depth of winter and the middle of the rainy season in
+Tahiti; but, luckily for us, it is nearly always fine in the daytime.
+At night, however, there is often a perfect deluge, which floods the
+houses and gardens, turns the streams into torrents, but washes and
+refreshes the vegetation, and leaves the landscape brighter and
+greener than before.
+
+At half-past seven the horses were put to, and we were just ready for
+a start, when down came the rain again, more heavily than before. It
+was some little time before it ceased enough to allow us to start,
+driving along grassy roads and through forests, but progressing rather
+slowly, owing to the soaked condition of the ground. If you can
+imagine the Kew hot-houses magnified and multiplied to an indefinite
+extent, and laid out as a gentleman's park, traversed by numerous
+grassy roads fringed with cocoa-nut palms, and commanding occasional
+glimpses of sea, and beach, and coral reefs, you will have some faint
+idea of the scene through which our road lay.
+
+Many rivers we crossed, and many we stuck in, the gentlemen having
+more than once to take off their shoes and stockings, tuck up their
+trousers, jump into the water, and literally put their shoulders to
+the wheel. Sometimes we drove out into the shallow sea, till it seemed
+doubtful when and where we should make the land again. Sometimes we
+climbed up a solid road, blasted out of the face of the black cliffs,
+or crept along the shore of the tranquil lagoon, frightening the
+land-crabs into their holes as they felt the shake of the approaching
+carriage. Palms and passiflora abounded, the latter being specially
+magnificent. It seems wonderful how their thin steins can support, at
+a height of thirty or forty feet from the ground, the masses of huge
+orange-coloured fruit which depend in strings from their summits.
+
+At the third river, not far from where it fell into the sea, we
+thought it was time to lunch; so we stopped the carriage, gave the
+horses their provender, and sat down to enjoy ourselves after our long
+drive. It was early in the afternoon before we started again, and soon
+after this we were met by fresh horses, sent out from Papenoo;[10] so
+it was not long before we found ourselves near Point Venus, where we
+once more came upon a good piece of road, down which we rattled to the
+plains outside Papeete.
+
+[Footnote 10: From 'pape,' _water_, and 'noo,' _abundance_.]
+
+We reached the quay at about seven o'clock, and, our arrival having
+been observed, several friends came to see us and to inquire how we
+had fared. Before we started on our excursion, instructions had been
+given that the 'Sunbeam' should be painted _white_, for the sake of
+coolness, and we were all very curious to see how she would look in
+her new dress; but unfortunately the wet weather has delayed the work,
+and there is still a good deal to do.
+
+_Wednesday, December 6th_.--It was raining fast at half-past four this
+morning, which was rather provoking, as I wanted to take some
+photographs from the yacht's deck before the sea-breeze sprang up. But
+the weather cleared while I was choosing my position and fixing my
+camera, and I was enabled to take what I hope may prove to be some
+successful photographs.
+
+Messrs. Brander's mail-ship, a sailing vessel of about 600 tons, was
+to leave for San Francisco at eight o'clock, and at seven Tom started
+in the 'Flash' to take our letters on board. The passage to San
+Francisco occupies twenty-five days on an average, and is performed
+with great regularity once a month each way. The vessels employed on
+this line, three in number, are well built, and have good
+accommodation for passengers, and they generally carry a full cargo.
+In the present instance it consists of fungus and tripang
+(_beche-de-mer_) for China, oranges for San Francisco, a good many
+packages of sundries, and a large consignment of pearls, entrusted to
+the captain at the last moment.
+
+So brisk is the trade carried on between Tahiti and the United States,
+that the cost of this vessel was more than covered by the freights the
+first year after she was built. In addition to these ships, there are
+those which run backwards and forwards to Valparaiso, and the little
+island trading schooners; so that the Tahitians can boast of quite a
+respectable fleet of vessels, not imposing perhaps in point of
+tonnage, but as smart and serviceable-looking as could be desired. The
+trading schooners are really beautiful little craft, and I am sure
+that, if well kept and properly manned, they would show to no
+discredit among our smart yachts at Cowes. Not a day passes without
+one or more entering or leaving the harbour, returning from or bound
+to the lonely isles with which the south-west portion of the Pacific
+is studded. They are provided with a patent log, but their captains,
+who are intelligent men, do not care much about a chronometer, as the
+distances to be run are comparatively short and are easily judged.
+
+Mr. Godeffroy gave us rather an amusing account of the manner in which
+their negotiations with the natives are conducted. The more civilised
+islanders have got beyond barter, and prefer hard cash in American
+dollars for their pearls, shells, cocoa-nuts, sandal-wood, &c. When
+they have received the money, they remain on deck for some time
+discussing their bargains among themselves. Then they peep down
+through the open skylights into the cabin below, where the most
+attractive prints and the gaudiest articles of apparel are temptingly
+displayed, alongside a few bottles of rum and brandy and a supply of
+tobacco. It is not long before the bait is swallowed; down go the
+natives, the goods are sold, and the dollars have once more found
+their way back into the captain's hands.
+
+I had a long talk with one of the natives, who arrived to-day from
+Flint Island--a most picturesque-looking individual, dressed in
+scarlet and orange-coloured flannel, and a mass of black, shiny, curly
+hair. Flint Island is a place whose existence has been disputed, it
+having been more than once searched for by ships in vain. It was,
+therefore, particularly interesting to meet some one who had actually
+visited, and had just returned from, the spot in question. That
+islands do occasionally disappear entirely in these parts there can be
+little doubt. The Tahitian schooners were formerly in the habit of
+trading with a small island close to Rarotonga, whose name I forget;
+but about four years ago, when proceeding thither with the usual
+three-monthly cargo of provisions, prints, &c., they failed to find
+the island, of which no trace has since been seen. Two missionaries
+from Rarotonga are believed to have been on it at the time of its
+disappearance, and to have shared its mysterious fate.
+
+_Thursday, December 7th_.--At eight o'clock I took Mabelle and Muriel
+for a drive in a pony-carriage which had been kindly lent me, but with
+a hint that the horse was rather _mechant_ sometimes. He behaved well
+on the present occasion, however, and we had a pleasant drive in the
+outskirts of the town for a couple of hours.
+
+Just as we returned, a gentleman came and asked me if I should like to
+see some remarkably fine pearls, and on my gladly consenting, he took
+me to his house, where I saw some pearls certainly worth going to look
+at, but too expensive for me, one pear-shaped gem alone having been
+valued at 1,000_l_. I was told they came from a neighbouring island,
+and I was given two shells containing pearls in various stages of
+formation.
+
+It was now time to go on board to receive some friends whom we had
+invited to breakfast, and who arrived at about half-past eleven.
+
+[Illustration: A Tahitian Lady.]
+
+After breakfast, and a chat, and an examination of the photograph
+books, &c., we all landed, and went to see Messrs. Brander's stores,
+where all sorts of requisites for fitting out ships and their crews
+can be procured. It is surprising to find how plentiful are the
+supplies of the necessaries and even the luxuries of civilised life in
+this far-away corner of the globe. You can even get _ice_ here, for
+the manufacture of which a retired English infantry officer has set up
+an establishment with great success. But what interested me most were
+the products of this and the neighbouring islands. There were tons of
+exquisitely tinted pearl shells, six or eight inches in diameter,
+formerly a valuable article of commerce, but now worth comparatively
+little. The pearls that came out of them had unfortunately been sent
+away to Liverpool--1,000_l_. worth by this morning's, and 5,000_l_ by
+the last mail-ship. Then there was vanilla, a most precarious crop,
+which needs to be carefully watered and shaded from the first moment
+it is planted, and which must be gathered before it is ripe, and dried
+and matured in a moist heat, between blankets and feather-beds, in
+order that the pods may not crack and allow the essence to escape. We
+saw also edible fungus, exported to San Francisco, and thence to Hong
+Kong, solely for the use of the Chinese; tripang, or _beche-de-mer_, a
+sort of sea-slug or holothuria, which, either living or dead, fresh or
+dried, looks equally untempting, but is highly esteemed by the
+Celestials; coprah, or dried cocoa-nut kernels, broken into small
+pieces in order that they may stow better, and exported to England and
+other parts, where the oil is expressed and oil-cake formed; and
+various other articles of commerce. The trade of the island is fast
+increasing, the average invoice value of the exports having risen from
+8,400_l_ in 1845 to 98,000_l_ in 1874. These totals are exclusive of
+the value of the pearls, which would increase it by at least another
+3,000_l_ or 4,000_l_.
+
+I speak from personal experience when I say that every necessary of
+life on board ship, and many luxuries, can be procured at Tahiti.
+American tinned fruits and vegetables beat English ones hollow.
+Preserved milk is uncertain--sometimes better, sometimes worse, than
+what one buys at home. Tinned salmon is much better. Australian
+mutton, New Zealand beef, and South Sea pork, leave nothing to be
+desired in the way of preserved meat. Fresh beef, mutton, and butter
+are hardly procurable, and the latter, when preserved, is uneatable. I
+can never understand why they don't take to potting and salting down
+for export the _best_ butter, at some large Irish or Devonshire farm,
+instead of reserving that process for butter which is just on the turn
+and is already almost unfit to eat; the result being that, long before
+it has reached a hot climate, it is only fit to grease carriage-wheels
+with. It could be done, and I feel sure it would pay, as good butter
+would fetch almost any price in many places. Some Devonshire butter,
+which we brought with us from England, is as good now, after ten
+thousand miles in the tropics, as it was when first put on board; but
+a considerable proportion is very bad, and was evidently not in proper
+condition in the first instance.
+
+We had intended going afterwards to the coral reef with the children
+to have a picnic there, and had accordingly given the servants leave
+to go ashore for the evening; but it came on to rain heavily, and we
+were obliged to return to the yacht instead. The servants had,
+however, already availed themselves of the permission they had
+received, and there was therefore no one on board in their department;
+so we had to unpack our basket and have our picnic on deck, under the
+awning, instead of on the reef, which I think was almost as great a
+treat to the children.
+
+We have, I am sorry to say, had a good deal of trouble with some of
+our men here. One disappeared directly we arrived, and has never been
+seen since. Another came off suffering from delirium tremens and
+epileptic fits, brought on by drink. His cries and struggles were
+horrible to hear and witness. It took four strong men to hold him, and
+the doctor was up with him all last night. Nearly all the ships that
+come here have been at sea for a long time, and the men are simply
+wild when they get ashore. Some of the people know only too well how
+to take advantage of this state of things, and the consequence is that
+it is hardly safe for a sailor to drink a glass of grog, for fear that
+it should be drugged. No doubt there are respectable places to which
+the men could resort, but it is not easy for a stranger to find them
+out, and our men seem to have been particularly unfortunate in this
+respect. Tom talks of leaving two of them behind, and shipping four
+fresh hands, as our number is already rather short.
+
+_Friday, December 8th_.--I persuaded Tom to make another excursion to
+the coral reef this morning, and at five o'clock he and Mabelle and I
+set off in the 'Flash,' just as the sun was rising. We had a
+delightful row, past the Quarantine Island[11], to the portion of the
+reef on the other side of the harbour, where we had not yet been, and
+where I think the coral plants and flowers and bushes showed to
+greater advantage than ever, as they were less crowded, and the
+occasional patches of sandy bottom enabled one to see them better. We
+were so engrossed in our examination of these marvels of the deep, and
+of the fish with which the water abounded, that we found ourselves
+aground several times, and our return to the yacht was consequently
+delayed.
+
+[Footnote 11: The native name is 'Motu-iti,' i.e. _little island_.]
+
+After breakfast I had another visit from a man with war-cloaks,
+shell-belts, _tapa_, and _reva reva_, which he brought on board for my
+inspection. It was a difficult task to make him understand what I
+meant, but at last I thought I had succeeded in impressing on his mind
+the fact that I wished to buy them, and that they would be paid for at
+the store. The sequel unfortunately proved that I was mistaken. At
+nine o'clock we set out for the shore, and after landing drove along
+the same road by which we had returned from our excursion round the
+island.[12] After seeing as much of the place as our limited time
+would allow, we drove over to Faataua, where we found the children and
+maids. The grand piano, every table, and the drawing-room floor, were
+spread with the presents we were expected to take away with us. There
+were bunches of scarlet feathers, two or three hundred in number, from
+the tail of the tropic bird, which are only allowed to be possessed
+and worn by chiefs, and which are of great value, as each bird
+produces only two feathers; pearl shells, with corals growing on them,
+red coral from the islands on the Equator, curious sponges and
+sea-weed, _tapa_ cloth and _reva-reva_ fringe, arrowroot and palm-leaf
+hats, cocoa-nut drinking vessels, fine mats plaited in many patterns,
+and other specimens of the products of the island.
+
+[Footnote 12: We paid a brief visit to Point Venus, whence Captain
+Cook observed the transit of Venus on November 9th, 1769, and we saw
+the lighthouse and tamarind tree, which now mark the spot. The latter,
+from which we brought away some seed, was undoubtedly planted by
+Captain Cook with his own hand.]
+
+[Illustration: Tropic Feathers]
+
+All the members of the royal family at present in Tahiti had been
+invited to meet us, and arrived in due course, including the
+heir-apparent and his brother and sister. All the guests were dressed
+in the native costume, with wreaths on their heads and necks, and even
+the servants--including our own, whom I hardly recognised--were
+similarly decorated. Wreaths had also been prepared for us, three of
+fragrant yellow flowers for Mabelle, Muriel, and myself, and others of
+a different kind for the gentlemen.
+
+When the feast was ready the Prince offered me his arm, and we all
+walked in a procession to a grove of bananas in the garden through two
+lines of native servants, who, at a given signal, saluted us with
+three hearty English cheers. We then continued our walk till we
+arrived at a house, built in the native style, by the side of a rocky
+stream, like a Scotch burn. The uprights of the house were banana
+trees, transplanted with their leaves on, so as to shade the roof,
+which was formed of plaited cocoa-nut palm-leaves, each about fifteen
+feet long, laid transversely across bamboo rafters. From these
+light-green supports and the dark green roof depended the yellow and
+brown leaves of the _theve_, woven into graceful garlands and elegant
+festoons. The floor was covered with the finest mats, with black and
+white borders, and the centre strewn with broad green plantain leaves,
+to form the tablecloth, on which were laid baskets and dishes, made of
+leaves sewed together, and containing all sorts of native delicacies.
+There were oysters, lobsters, wurrali, and crawfish, stewed chicken,
+boiled sucking-pig, plantains, bread-fruit, melons, bananas, oranges,
+and strawberries. Before each guest was placed a half cocoa-nut full
+of salt water, another full of chopped cocoa-nut, a third full of
+fresh water, and another full of milk, two pieces of bamboo, a basket
+of _poi_, half a bread-fruit, and a platter of green leaves, the
+latter being changed with each course. We took our seats on the ground
+round the green table. An address was first delivered in the native
+language, grace was then said, and we commenced. The first operation
+was to mix the salt water and the chopped cocoa-nut together, so as to
+make an appetising sauce, into which we were supposed to dip each
+morsel we ate, the empty salt-water bowl being filled up with fresh
+water with which to wash our fingers and lips. We were tolerably
+successful in the use of our fingers as substitutes for knives and
+forks. The only drawback was that the dinner had to be eaten amid such
+a scene of novelty and beauty, that our attention was continually
+distracted: there was so much to admire, both in the house itself and
+outside it. After we had finished, all the servants sat down to
+dinner, and from a dais at one end of the room we surveyed the bright
+and animated scene, the gentlemen--and some of the ladies
+too--meanwhile enjoying their cigarettes.
+
+When we got down to Papeete, at about half-past four, so many things
+had to be done that it seemed impossible to accomplish a start this
+evening. First of all the two Princes came on board, and were shown
+round, after which there were accounts to be paid, linen to be got on
+board; and various other preparations to be made. Presently it was
+discovered that the cloaks I had purchased--or thought I had
+purchased--this morning had not turned up, and that our saddles had
+been left at Faataua on Sunday and had been forgotten. The latter were
+immediately sent for, but although some one went on shore to look
+after the cloaks nothing could be heard of them; so I suppose I failed
+after all in making the man understand that he was to take them to the
+store and be paid for them there.
+
+[Illustration: Chaetodon Besantii]
+
+At six o'clock the pilot sent word that it was no longer safe to go
+out; but steam was already up, and Tom therefore decided to go outside
+the reef and there wait for the people and goods that were still on
+shore. At this moment the saddles appeared in one direction, and the
+rest of the party in another. They were soon on board, the anchor was
+raised, and we began to steam slowly ahead, taking a last regretful
+look at Papeete as we left the harbour. By the time we were outside it
+was dark, the pilot went ashore, and we steamed full speed ahead.
+After dinner, and indeed until we went to bed, at half-past eleven,
+the lights along the shore were clearly visible, and the form of the
+high mountains behind could be distinguished.
+
+Good-bye, lovely Tahiti! I wonder if I shall ever see you again; it
+makes me quite sad to think how small is the chance of my doing so.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+TAHITI TO SANDWICH ISLANDS.--KILAUEA BY DAY AND BY NIGHT.
+
+    _Methinks it should have been impossible_
+    _Not to love all things in a world so filled,_
+    _Where the breeze warbles, and the mute still air_
+    _Is music, slumbering on her instrument._
+
+
+_Saturday, December 9th_.--After leaving the harbour of Papeete we
+passed close to the island of Eimeo, on which we have gazed so often
+and with so much pleasure during the past week. It is considered the
+most beautiful island of the Georgian group, and we all regretted that
+we were unable to spare the time to visit it. From afar it is rather
+like the dolomite mountains in the Tyrol, and it is said that the
+resemblance is even more striking on a near approach. The harbour is a
+long narrow gorge between high mountains, clothed with palms, oranges,
+and plantains, and is one of the most remarkable features of the
+place. Huahine is the island of which the Earl and the Doctor speak,
+in 'South Sea Bubbles,' in terms of such enthusiasm, and Rarotonga is
+the head and centre of all the missionary efforts of the present time
+in these parts.
+
+The weather to-day was fine, though we had occasional squalls of wind
+and rain. We were close-hauled, and the motion of the vessel was
+violent and disagreeable. I was very sea-sick, and was consoled to
+find that several of the men were so too. A head sea--or nearly so--is
+quite a novel experience for us of late, and we none of us like the
+change.
+
+_Sunday, December 10th_.--Another squally day. Still close-hauled,
+and even then not on our course. We had a short service at eleven, but
+it was as much as I could do to remain on deck.
+
+_Monday, December 11th_.--Very like yesterday. We passed close to
+Flint and Vostok Islands, at the former of which I should have much
+liked to land. But it was a good deal to leeward of us; there is no
+anchorage, and the landing, which is always difficult and sometimes
+impossible, has to be effected in native surf-boats. It would have
+been interesting to see a guano island, of which this is a perfect
+specimen.
+
+We had hoped to make the Caroline Islands before dark (not the
+Caroline Islands proper, but a group of low islets, whose position is
+very uncertainly indicated in the different charts and books); but the
+wind fell light, and as we could see nothing of them at sunset,
+although the view from the masthead extended at least fifteen miles in
+every direction, it was decided at eight o'clock to put the ship
+about, to insure not running on them or any of the surrounding reefs
+in the night. The currents run very swiftly between these islands, and
+it is impossible to tell your exact position, even a few hours after
+having taken an observation.
+
+_Tuesday, December 12th_.--The wind freshened immediately after we had
+changed our course last night, and fell light directly we had put
+about again this morning, so that it was fully 9 a.m. before we had
+regained our position of yesterday evening.
+
+Our compass-cards were getting worn out, and Tom gave out new ones
+before leaving Tahiti. I was very much amused to-night, when, as
+usual, just before going to bed, I went to have a look at the compass
+and see how the yacht was lying, and asked the man at the wheel what
+course he was steering. 'North and by west, half-east, ma'am,' he
+replied. 'That's a funny course,' I said; 'tell me again.' He
+repeated his statement; whereupon I remarked that the course was quite
+a new one to me. 'Oh, yes, ma'am,' he answered, 'but them's the new
+compass-cards.' This man is one of the best helmsmen in the ship, but
+certainly seems to be an indifferent scholar.
+
+_Friday, December 15th_.--We crossed the line at half-past four this
+morning. Father Neptune was to have paid us another visit in the
+evening, but the crew were busy, and there were some difficulties
+about arranging the details of the ceremony. The children were
+obliged, therefore, to be content with their usual game of drilling
+every one that they were able to muster for soldiers, after the
+fashion of Captain Brown's 'rifle practice,' or marching up and down
+the decks to the strains of Jem Butt's fiddle playing 'Tommy make room
+for your Uncle,' accompanied by the somewhat discordant noise of their
+own drums. These amusements after sunset, and scrubbing decks and
+working at the pumps before sunrise, give us all the much-needed
+exercise it is impossible to take in the heat of the daytime.
+
+[Illustration: Tattoo in the Tropics]
+
+_Saturday, December 16th_.--At 1.30 a.m. I was awoke by the strains
+of sweet music, and could not at first imagine where I could be, or
+whence the sounds came. It proved to be the performance of some
+'waits' on board. I do not know who originated the idea, but it was a
+very good one, and was excellently carried out. Everybody assembled on
+deck by degrees, and the songsters enjoyed a glass of grog when their
+labours were finished, after which we all went to bed again.
+
+It had fallen calm yesterday evening, and the funnel was raised at
+midnight, but the breeze sprang up again to-day, and at noon the fires
+were banked and the sails were set. Of course it then fell calm again,
+and at six o'clock we were once more proceeding under steam. There was
+one squall in the night, accompanied by the most tremendous rain I
+ever saw or heard. We talk of tropical rain in England, but the real
+thing is very different. It seemed just as if the bottom of an
+enormous cistern overhead had suddenly been removed, allowing the
+contents to fall exactly on the spot where we were. The water came
+down in sheets, and was soon three or four inches deep on the deck,
+though it was pouring out of the scuppers all the time as fast as
+possible.
+
+_Sunday, December 17th_.--A showery morning. We had Communion Service
+and hymns at eleven. In the afternoon it was too rough for 'church,'
+and Tom was unable to deliver his intended address to the men.
+
+_Monday, December 18th_.--We were close-hauled, with a strong
+north-east wind, and heavy squalls and showers at intervals. We saw
+several flying-fish and a good many birds, apparently hovering over a
+shoal of whales or grampuses. It is wonderful how little life we have
+seen on this portion of our voyage.
+
+_Tuesday, December 19th_.--A fine day--wind rather more fair--sea
+still rough and disagreeable. I tried to work hard all day, but found
+it very difficult.
+
+_Thursday, December 21st_.--Wind variable and baffling--sometimes
+calm, sometimes squally, sometimes a nice breeze. Sails were hoisted
+and lowered at least a dozen times, and fires were banked more than
+once.
+
+_Friday, December 22nd_.--At 6.30 a.m. we made the island of Hawaii,
+rather too much to leeward, as we had been carried by the strong
+current at least eighteen miles out of our course. We were therefore
+obliged to beat up to windward, in the course of which operation we
+passed a large barque running before the wind--the first ship we had
+seen since leaving Tahiti--and also a fine whale, blowing, close to
+us. We could not see the high land in the centre of the island, owing
+to the mist in which it was enveloped, and there was great excitement
+and much speculation on board as to the principal points which were
+visible. At noon the observations taken proved that Tom was right in
+his opinion as to our exact position. The wind dropped as we
+approached the coast, where we could see the heavy surf dashing
+against the black lava cliffs, rushing up the little creeks, and
+throwing its spray in huge fountain-like jets high above the tall
+cocoa-nut trees far inland.
+
+We sailed along close to the shore, and by two o'clock were near the
+entrance to the Bay of Hilo. In answer to our signal for a pilot a
+boat came off with a man who said he knew the entrance to the harbour,
+but informed us that the proper pilot had gone to Honolulu on a
+pleasure trip.
+
+It was a clear afternoon. The mountains, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa,
+could be plainly seen from top to bottom, their giant crests rising
+nearly 14,000 feet above our heads, their tree and fern clad slopes
+seamed with deep gulches or ravines, down each of which a fertilising
+river ran into the sea. Inside the reef, the white coral shore, on
+which the waves seemed too lazy to break, is fringed with a belt of
+cocoa-nut palms, amongst which, as well as on the hill-sides, the
+little white houses are prettily dotted. All are surrounded by
+gardens, so full of flowers that the bright patches of colour were
+plainly visible even from the deck of the yacht. The harbour is large,
+and is exposed only to one bad wind, which is most prevalent during
+the winter months. Still, with good ground-tackle, there is not much
+to be feared, and there is one particular spot, sheltered by the
+Blonde reef, which is almost always safe. Here, accordingly, we have
+taken up our station, though it is rather far from the town. Sometimes
+it is impossible to land at Hilo itself for days together, but there
+is fortunately a little creek behind Cocoa-nut Island which is always
+accessible.
+
+This afternoon the weather was all that could be desired, and at three
+o'clock we landed and went straight to Mr. Conway's store to make
+arrangements for going to the volcano of Kilauea to-morrow. Mr. Conway
+sent a man off at once on horseback to warn the people at the
+'Half-way House' and at 'Volcano House' to make preparations to
+receive our party--a necessary precaution, as visitors to the island
+are not numerous, and can only arrive by the monthly steamer from
+Honolulu.
+
+Having arranged this matter, we went for a stroll, among neat houses
+and pretty gardens, to the suspension-bridge over the river, followed
+by a crowd of girls, all decorated with wreaths and garlands, and
+wearing almost the same dress that we had seen at Tahiti--a coloured
+long-sleeved loose gown reaching to the feet. The natives here appear
+to affect duller colours than those we have lately been accustomed to,
+lilac, drab, brown, and other dark prints being the favourite tints.
+Whenever I stopped to look at a view, one of the girls would come
+behind me and throw a _lei_ of flowers over my head, fasten it round
+my neck, and then run away laughing, to a distance, to judge of
+effect. The consequence was that, before the end of our walk, I had
+about a dozen wreaths, of various colours and lengths, hanging round
+me, till I felt almost as if I had a fur tippet on, they made me so
+hot; and yet I did not like to take them off for fear of hurting the
+poor girls' feelings.
+
+We walked along the river bank, and crossed to the other side just
+below the rapids, jumping over the narrow channels through which the
+water hurried and rushed. Some of our attendant girls carried Muriel
+and the dogs, and, springing barefooted from rock to rock, led us
+across the stream and up the precipitous banks on the other side.
+There is a sort of hotel here, kept by a Chinaman, where everything is
+scrupulously clean, and the food good though plain. It is rather more
+like a lodging-house than an hotel, however. You hire your rooms, and
+are expected to make special arrangements for board. Before we got
+back to the yacht it had become dark, the moon had risen, and we could
+see the reflection in the sky of the fires in the crater of Kilauea. I
+do hope the volcano will be active to-morrow. It is never two days in
+the same condition, and visitors have frequently remained in the
+neighbourhood of the crater for a week without seeing an eruption.
+
+The starlit sky, the bright young moon, and the red cloud from
+Kilauea, floating far above our heads, made up a most beautiful scene
+from the deck of the 'Sunbeam.'
+
+_Saturday, December 23rd_.--The boatman who brought us off last night
+had told us that Saturday was market-day at Hilo, and that at five
+o'clock the natives would come in from the surrounding country in
+crowds to buy their Sunday and Christmas Day provisions, and to bring
+their own produce for sale. We accordingly gave orders that the boat
+should come for us at a quarter to five, shortly before which we got
+up and went on deck. We waited patiently in the dark until half-past
+five, when, no boat appearing from the shore, the dingy was manned and
+we landed. The lights in the town were all out, the day had hardly
+dawned, and there were no signs of life to be seen. At last we met two
+men, who told us we should find the market near the river, and offered
+to show us the way; but when we arrived at the spot they had indicated
+we found only a large butcher's shop, and were informed that the
+regular market for fish, fruit, and other things was held at five
+o'clock _in the afternoon_ instead of in the morning. We had thus had
+all our trouble for nothing, and the non-appearance of the boat was
+fully explained.
+
+Presently we met a friend who took us to his home. It was a pretty
+walk, by the side of the river and through numerous gardens, fresh
+with the morning dew. He gave us the latest news from the United
+States, and presented us with oranges and flowers, with which we
+returned to the yacht. We were on board again by seven, and, having
+packed up our things and sent them ashore, had an early breakfast, and
+landed, in readiness for our excursion to Kilauea. The baggage animals
+ought already to have started, but we found they had been kept back,
+in case we should happen to forget anything. Quite a crowd assembled
+to see us off, and a good deal of gossip had to be got through, so
+that it was half-past nine before we were all mounted and fairly off.
+
+The first part of our way lay along the flat ground, gay with bright
+scarlet Guernsey lilies, and shaded by cocoa-nut trees, between the
+town and the sea. Then we struck off to the right, and soon left the
+town behind us, emerging into the open country. At a distance from the
+sea, Hilo looks as green as the Emerald Isle itself; but on a closer
+inspection the grass turns out to be coarse and dry, and many of the
+trees look scrubby and half dead. Except in the 'gulches' and the deep
+holes between the hills, the island is covered with lava, in many
+places of so recent a deposit that it has not yet had time to
+decompose, and there is consequently only a thin layer of soil on its
+surface. This soil being, however, very rich, vegetation flourishes
+luxuriantly for a time; but as soon as the roots have penetrated a
+certain depth, and have come into contact with the lava, the trees
+wither up and perish, like the seed that fell on stony ground.
+
+The _ohia_ trees form a handsome feature in the landscape, with their
+thick tall stems, glossy foliage, and light crimson flowers. The fruit
+is a small pink waxy-looking apple, slightly acid, pleasant to the
+taste when you are thirsty. The candle-nut trees attain to a large
+size, and their light green foliage and white flowers have a very
+graceful appearance. Most of the foliage, however, is spoiled by a
+deposit of black dust, not unlike what one sees on the leaves in a
+London garden. I do not know whether this is caused by the fumes of
+the not far-distant volcano, or whether it is some kind of mould or
+fungus.
+
+After riding about ten miles in the blazing sun we reached a forest,
+where the vegetation was quite tropical, though not so varied in its
+beauties as that of Brazil, or of the still more lovely South Sea
+Islands. There were ferns of various descriptions in the forest, and
+many fine trees, entwined, supported, or suffocated by numerous
+climbing plants, amongst which were blue and lilac convolvulus, and
+magnificent passion-flowers. The protection from the sun afforded by
+this dense mass of foliage was extremely grateful; but the air of the
+forest was close and stifling, and at the end of five miles we were
+glad to emerge once more into the open. The rest of the way lay over
+the hard lava, through a sort of desert of scrubby vegetation,
+occasionally relieved by clumps of trees in hollows. More than once we
+had a fine view of the sea, stretching away into the far distance,
+though it was sometimes mistaken for the bright blue sky, until the
+surf could be seen breaking upon the black rocks, amid the encircling
+groves of cocoa-nut trees.
+
+The sun shone fiercely at intervals, and the rain came down several
+times in torrents. The pace was slow, the road was dull and dreary,
+and many were the inquiries made for the 'Half-way House,' long before
+we reached it. We had still two miles farther to go, in the course of
+which we were drenched by a heavy shower. At last we came to a native
+house, crowded with people, where they were making _tappa_ or
+_kapa_--the cloth made from the bark of the paper-mulberry. Here we
+stopped for a few minutes until our guide hurried us on, pointing out
+the church and the 'Half-way House' just ahead.
+
+We were indeed glad to dismount after our weary ride, and rest in the
+comfortable rocking-chairs under the verandah. It is a small white
+wooden building, overhung with orange-trees, with a pond full of ducks
+and geese outside it, and a few scattered outbuildings, including a
+cooking hut, close by. A good-looking man was busy broiling
+beef-steaks, stewing chickens, and boiling _taro_, and we had soon a
+plentiful repast set before us, with the very weakest of weak tea as a
+beverage. The woman of the house, which contained some finely worked
+mats and clean-looking beds, showed us some _tappa cloth_, together
+with the mallets and other instruments used in its manufacture, and a
+beautiful orange-coloured _lei_, or feather necklace, which she had
+made herself. The cloth and mallets were for sale, but no inducement
+would persuade her to part with the necklace. It was the first she had
+ever made, and I was afterwards told that the natives are
+superstitiously careful to preserve the first specimen of their
+handiwork, of whatever kind it may be.
+
+A woman dressed in a pink _holoku_ and a light green apron had
+followed us hither from the cottages we had first stopped at, and I
+noticed at the time that, though she was chatting and laughing with a
+female companion, she did not seem very well. Whilst we were at lunch
+a sudden increase to her family took place, and before we were ready
+to start I paid her and her infant a visit. She was then sitting up,
+apparently as well as ever, and seemed to look upon the recent event
+as a very light matter.
+
+Directly we had finished our meal--about three o'clock--the guide came
+and tried to persuade us that, as the baggage-mules had not yet
+arrived, it would be too late for us to go on to-day, and that we had
+better spend the night where we were, and start early in the morning.
+We did not, however, approve of this arrangement, so the horses were
+saddled, and, leaving word that the baggage-mules were to follow on as
+soon as possible, we mounted, and set off for the 'Volcano House.' We
+had not gone far before we were again overtaken by a shower, which
+once more drenched us to the skin.
+
+The scene was certainly one of extreme beauty. The moon was hidden by
+a cloud, and the prospect lighted only by the red glare of the
+volcano, which hovered before and above us like the Israelites' pillar
+of fire, giving us hopes of a splendid spectacle when we should at
+last reach the long-wished-for crater. Presently the moon shone forth
+again, and gleamed and glistened on the rain-drops and silver-grasses
+till they looked like fireflies and glowworms. At last, becoming
+impatient, we proceeded slowly on our way, until we met a man on
+horseback, who hailed us in a cheery voice with an unmistakable
+American accent. It was the landlord of the 'Volcano House,' Mr. Kane,
+who, fearing from the delay that we had met with some mishap, had
+started to look for us. He explained that he thought it was only his
+duty to look after and help ladies visiting the volcano, and added
+that he had intended going down as far as the 'Half-way House' in
+search of us. It was a great relief to know that we were in the right
+track, and I quite enjoyed the gallop through the dark forest, though
+there was barely sufficient light to enable me to discern the horse
+immediately in front of me. When we emerged from the wood, we found
+ourselves at the very edge of the old crater, the bed of which, three
+or four hundred feet beneath us, was surrounded by steep and in many
+places overhanging sides. It looked like an enormous cauldron, four or
+five miles in width, full of a mass of cooled pitch. In the centre was
+the still glowing stream of dark red lava, flowing slowly towards us,
+and in every direction were red-hot patches, and flames and smoke
+issuing from the ground. A bit of the 'black country' at night, with
+all the coal-heaps on fire, would give you some idea of the scene. Yet
+the first sensation is rather one of disappointment, as one expects
+greater activity on the part of the volcano; but the new crater was
+still to be seen, containing the lake of fire, with steep walls rising
+up in the midst of the sea of lava.
+
+Twenty minutes' hard riding brought us to the door of the 'Volcano
+House,' from which issued the comforting light of a large wood fire,
+reaching halfway up the chimney. Native garments replaced Mabelle's
+and my dripping habits, and we sat before the fire in luxury until the
+rest of the party arrived. After some delay supper was served, cooked
+by our host, and accompanied by excellent Bass's beer, no wine or
+spirits being procurable on the premises. Mr. Kane made many apologies
+for shortcomings, explaining that his cook had run away that morning,
+and that his wife was not able to do much to assist him, as her first
+baby was only a week old.
+
+Everything at this inn is most comfortable, though the style is rough
+and ready. The interior is just now decorated for Christmas, with
+wreaths, and evergreens, and ferns, and bunches of white plumes, not
+unlike _reva-reva_, made from the pith of the silver-grass. The beds
+and bedrooms are clean, but limited in number, there being only three
+of the latter altogether. The rooms are separated only by partitions
+of grass, seven feet high, so that there is plenty of ventilation, and
+the heat of the fire permeates the whole building. But you must not
+talk secrets in these dormitories or be too restless. I was amused to
+find, in the morning, that I had unconsciously poked my hand through
+the wall of our room during the night.
+
+The grandeur of the view in the direction of the volcano increased as
+the evening wore on. The fiery cloud above the present crater
+augmented in size and depth of colour; the extinct crater glowed red
+in thirty or forty different places; and clouds of white vapour
+issued from every crack and crevice in the ground, adding to the
+sulphurous smell with which the atmosphere was laden. Our room faced
+the volcano: there were no blinds, and I drew back the curtains and
+lay watching the splendid scene until I fell asleep.
+
+_Sunday, December 24th (Christmas Eve)_.--I was up at four o'clock, to
+gaze once more on the wondrous spectacle that lay before me. The
+molten lava still flowed in many places, the red cloud over the fiery
+lake was bright as ever, and steam was slowly ascending in every
+direction, over hill and valley, till, as the sun rose, it became
+difficult to distinguish clearly the sulphurous vapours from the
+morning mists. We walked down to the Sulphur Banks, about a quarter of
+a mile from the 'Volcano House,' and burnt our gloves and boots in our
+endeavours to procure crystals, the beauty of which generally
+disappeared after a very short exposure to the air. We succeeded,
+however, in finding a few good specimens, and, by wrapping them at
+once in paper and cotton-wool and putting them into a bottle, hope to
+bring them home uninjured.
+
+On our return we found a gentleman who had just arrived from Kau, and
+who proposed to join us in our expedition to the crater, and at three
+o'clock in the afternoon we set out, a party of eight, with two
+guides, and three porters to carry our wraps and provisions, and to
+bring back specimens. Before leaving the inn the landlord came to us
+and begged us in an earnest and confidential manner to be very
+careful, to do exactly what our guides told us, and especially to
+follow in their footsteps exactly when returning in the dark. He
+added, 'There never has been an accident happen to anybody from my
+house, and I should feel real mean if one did: but there have been a
+power of narrow escapes.'
+
+First of all we descended the precipice, 300 feet in depth, forming
+the wall of the old crater, but now thickly covered with vegetation.
+It is so steep in many places that flights of zig-zag wooden steps
+have been inserted in the face of the cliff in some places, in order
+to render the descent practicable. At the bottom we stepped straight
+on to the surface of cold boiled lava, which we had seen from above
+last night. Even here, in every crevice where a few grains of soil had
+collected, delicate little ferns might be seen struggling for life,
+and thrusting out their green fronds towards the light. It was the
+most extraordinary walk imaginable over that vast plain of lava,
+twisted and distorted into every conceivable shape and form, according
+to the temperature it had originally attained, and the rapidity with
+which it had cooled, its surface, like half-molten glass, cracking and
+breaking beneath our feet. Sometimes we came to a patch that looked
+like the contents of a pot, suddenly petrified in the act of boiling;
+sometimes the black iridescent lava had assumed the form of waves, or
+more frequently of huge masses of rope, twisted and coiled together;
+sometimes it was piled up like a collection of organ-pipes, or had
+gathered into mounds and cones of various dimensions. As we proceeded
+the lava became hotter and hotter, and from every crack arose gaseous
+fumes, affecting our noses and throats in a painful manner; till at
+last, when we had to pass to leeward of the molten stream flowing from
+the lake, the vapours almost choked us, and it was with difficulty we
+continued to advance. The lava was more glassy and transparent-looking,
+as if it had been fused at a higher temperature than usual; and the
+crystals of sulphur, alum, and other minerals, with which it abounded,
+reflected the light in bright prismatic colours. In places it was quite
+transparent, and we could see beneath it the long streaks of a stringy
+kind of lava, like brown spun glass, called 'Pele's hair.'
+
+At last we reached the foot of the present crater, and commenced the
+ascent of the outer wall. Many times the thin crust gave way beneath
+our guide, and he had to retire quickly from the hot, blinding,
+choking fumes that immediately burst forth. But we succeeded in
+reaching the top; and then what a sight presented itself to our
+astonished eyes! I could neither speak nor move at first, but could
+only stand and gaze at the horrible grandeur of the scene.
+
+We were standing on the extreme edge of a precipice, overhanging a
+lake of molten fire, a hundred feet below us, and nearly a mile
+across. Dashing against the cliffs on the opposite side, with a noise
+like the roar of a stormy ocean, waves of blood-red, fiery, liquid
+lava hurled their billows upon an iron-bound headland, and then rushed
+up the face of the cliffs to toss their gory spray high in the air.
+The restless, heaving lake boiled and bubbled, never remaining the
+same for two minutes together. Its normal colour seemed to be a dull
+dark red, covered with a thin grey scum, which every moment and in
+every part swelled and cracked, and emitted fountains, cascades, and
+whirlpools of yellow and red fire, while sometimes one big golden
+river, sometimes four or five, flowed across it. There was an island
+on one side of the lake, which the fiery waves seemed to attack
+unceasingly with relentless fury, as if bent on hurling it from its
+base. On the other side was a large cavern, into which the burning
+mass rushed with a loud roar, breaking down in its impetuous headlong
+career the gigantic stalactites that overhung the mouth of the cave,
+and flinging up the liquid material for the formation of fresh ones.
+
+It was all terribly grand, magnificently sublime; but no words could
+adequately describe such a scene. The precipice on which we were
+standing overhung the crater so much that it was impossible to see
+what was going on immediately beneath; but from the columns of smoke
+and vapour that arose, the flames and sparks that constantly drove us
+back from the edge, it was easy to imagine that there must have been
+two or three grand fiery fountains below. As the sun set, and darkness
+enveloped the scene, it became more awful than ever. We retired a
+little way from the brink, to breathe some fresh air, and to try and
+eat the food we had brought with us; but this was an impossibility.
+Every instant a fresh explosion or glare made us jump up to survey the
+stupendous scene. The violent struggles of the lava to escape from its
+fiery bed, and the loud and awful noises by which they were at times
+accompanied, suggested the idea that some imprisoned monsters were
+trying to release themselves from their bondage, with shrieks and
+groans, and cries of agony and despair, at the futility of their
+efforts.
+
+Sometimes there were at least seven spots on the borders of the lake
+where the molten lava dashed up furiously against the rocks--seven
+fire-fountains playing simultaneously. With the increasing darkness
+the colours emitted by the glowing mass became more and more
+wonderful, varying from the deepest jet black to the palest grey, from
+darkest maroon, through cherry and scarlet, to the most delicate pink,
+violet, and blue; from the richest brown, through orange and yellow,
+to the lightest straw-colour. And there was yet another shade, only
+describable by the term 'molten-lava colour.' Even the smokes and
+vapours were rendered beautiful by their borrowed lights and tints,
+and the black peaks, pinnacles, and crags, which surrounded the
+amphitheatre, formed a splendid and appropriate background. Sometimes
+great pieces broke off and tumbled with a crash into the burning lake,
+only to be remelted and thrown up anew. I had for some time been
+feeling very hot and uncomfortable, and on looking round the cause was
+at once apparent. Not two inches beneath the surface, the grey lava on
+which we were standing and sitting was red-hot. A stick thrust through
+it caught fire, a piece of paper was immediately destroyed, and the
+gentlemen found the heat from the crevices so great that they could
+not approach near enough to light their pipes.
+
+One more long last look, and then we turned our faces away from the
+scene that had enthralled us for so many hours. The whole of the lava
+we had crossed, in the extinct crater, was now aglow in many patches,
+and in all directions flames were bursting forth, fresh lava was
+flowing, and steam and smoke were issuing from the surface. It was a
+toilsome journey back again, walking as we did in single file, and
+obeying the strict injunctions of our head guide to follow him
+closely, and to tread exactly in his footsteps. On the whole it was
+easier by night than by day to distinguish the route to be taken, as
+we could now see the dangers that before we could only feel; and many
+were the fiery crevices we stepped over or jumped across. Once I
+slipped, and my foot sank through the thin crust. Sparks issued from
+the ground, and the stick on which I leant caught fire before I could
+fairly recover myself.
+
+Either from the effects of the unaccustomed exercise after our long
+voyage, or from the intense excitement of the novel scene, combined
+with the gaseous exhalations from the lava, my strength began to fail,
+and before reaching the side of the crater I felt quite exhausted. I
+struggled on at short intervals, however, collapsing several times and
+fainting away twice; but at last I had fairly to give in, and to allow
+myself to be ignominiously carried up the steep precipice to the
+'Volcano House' on a chair, which the guides went to fetch for me.
+
+It was half-past eleven when we once more found ourselves beneath Mr.
+Kane's hospitable roof; he had expected us to return at nine o'clock,
+and was beginning to feel anxious about us.
+
+_Monday, December 25th (Christmas Day)_.--Turning in last night was
+the work of a very few minutes, and this morning I awoke perfectly
+refreshed and ready to appreciate anew the wonders of the prospect
+that met my eyes. The pillar of fire was still distinctly visible when
+I looked out from my window, though it was not so bright as when I
+had last seen it; but even as I looked it began to fade, and gradually
+disappeared. At the same moment a river of glowing lava issued from
+the side of the bank we had climbed with so much difficulty yesterday,
+and slowly but surely overflowed the ground we had walked over. I woke
+Tom, and you may imagine the feelings with which we gazed upon this
+startling phenomenon, which, had it occurred a few hours earlier,
+might have caused the destruction of the whole party. If our
+expedition had been made to-day instead of yesterday, we should
+certainly have had to proceed by a different route to the crater, and
+should have looked down on the lake of fire from a different spot.
+
+I cannot hope that in my attempt to give you some idea of Kilauea as
+we beheld it, I shall be successful in conveying more than a very
+faint impression of its glories. I feel that my description is so
+utterly inadequate, that, were it not for the space, I should be
+tempted to send you in full the experiences of previous visitors, as
+narrated in Miss Bird's 'Six Months in the Sandwich Islands,' and Mr.
+Bodham Whetham's 'Pearls of the Pacific.' The account contained in the
+former work I had read before arriving here; the latter I enjoyed at
+the 'Volcano House.' Both are well worth reading by any one who feels
+an interest in the subject.
+
+It would, I think, be difficult to imagine a more interesting and
+exciting mode of spending Christmas Eve than yesterday has taught us,
+or a stranger situation in which to exchange our Christmas greetings
+than beneath the grass roof of an inn on the edge of a volcano in the
+remote Sandwich Islands. They were certainly rendered none the less
+cordial and sincere by the novelty of our position, and I think we are
+all rather glad not to have in prospect the inevitable feastings and
+ceremonies, without which it seems to be impossible to commemorate
+this season in England. If we had seen nothing but Kilauea since we
+left home, we should have been well rewarded for our long voyage.
+
+At six o'clock we were dressed and packed. Breakfast followed at
+half-past, and at seven we were prepared for a start. Our kind, active
+host, and his wife and baby, all came out to see us off. The canter
+over the dewy grass, in the fresh morning air, was most invigorating.
+It was evident that no one had passed along the road since Saturday
+night, for we picked up several waifs and strays dropped in the dark
+on our way up--a whip, a stirrup, mackintosh hood, &c.
+
+By half-past ten we had reached the 'Half-way House,' where we were
+not expected so early, and where we had ample opportunity to observe
+the native ways of living, while waiting for our midday meal--an
+uninteresting mess of stewed fowl and _taro_, washed down with weak
+tea. After it was over I made an unsuccessful attempt to induce the
+woman of the house to part with her orange-coloured _lei_. I bought
+some _tappa_ and mallets, however, with some of the markers used in
+colouring the cloth, and a few gourds and calabashes, forming part of
+the household furniture. While the horses were being saddled
+preparatory to our departure, Mabelle and I went to another cottage
+close by, to see the mother of the baby that had been born while we
+were here on Saturday. She was not at home; but we afterwards found
+her playing cards with some of her friends in a neighbouring hut.
+Quite a large party of many natives were gathered together, not the
+least cheerful of whom was the young mother whose case had interested
+me so much.
+
+The rest of the ride down to Hilo was as dull and monotonous as our
+upward journey had been, although, in order to enable us to get over
+it as quickly as possible, fresh horses had been sent to meet us. At
+last we reached the pier, where we found the usual little crowd
+waiting to see us off. The girls who had followed us when we first
+landed came forward shyly when they thought they were unobserved, and
+again encircled me with _leis_ of gay and fragrant flowers. The custom
+of decorating themselves with wreaths on every possible occasion is in
+my eyes a charming one, and I like the inhabitants of Polynesia for
+their love of flowers. They are as necessary to them as the air they
+breathe, and I think the missionaries make a mistake in endeavouring
+to repress so innocent and natural a taste.
+
+The whole town was _en fete_ to-day. Natives were riding about in
+pairs, in the cleanest of bright cotton dresses and the freshest of
+_leis_ and garlands. Our own men from the yacht contributed not a
+little to the gaiety of the scene. They were all on shore, and the
+greater part of them were galloping about on horseback, tumbling off,
+scrambling on again, laughing, flirting, joking, and enjoying
+themselves generally after a fashion peculiar to English sailors. As
+far as we know the only evil result of all this merriment was that the
+doctor received a good many applications for diachylon plaster in the
+course of the evening, to repair various 'abrasions of the cuticle,'
+as he expressed it.
+
+I think at least half the population of Hilo had been on board the
+yacht in the course of the day, as a Christmas treat. At last we took
+a boat and went off too, accompanied by Mr. Lyman. The appearance of
+the 'Sunbeam' from the shore was very gay, and as we approached it
+became more festive still. All her masts were tipped with sugar-canes
+in bloom. Her stern was adorned with flowers, and in the arms of the
+figure-head was a large bouquet. She was surrounded with boats, the
+occupants of which cheered us heartily as we rowed alongside. The
+gangway was decorated with flowers, and surmounted by a triumphal
+arch, on which were inscribed 'Welcome Home,' 'A Merry Christmas,' 'A
+Happy New Year,' and other good wishes. The whole deck was festooned
+with tropical plants and flowers, and the decorations of the cabins
+were even more beautiful and elaborate. I believe all hands had been
+hard at work ever since we left to produce this wonderful effect, and
+every garden in Hilo had furnished a contribution to please and
+surprise us on our return.
+
+The choir from Hilo came out in boats in the evening, sang all sorts
+of songs, sacred and secular, and cheered everybody till they were
+hoarse. After this, having had a cold dinner, in order to save
+trouble, and having duly drunk the health of our friends at home, we
+all adjourned to the saloon, to assist in the distribution of some
+Christmas presents, a ceremony which afforded great delight to the
+children, and which was equally pleasing to the elder people and to
+the crew, if one may judge from their behaviour on the occasion.
+
+Then we sat on deck, gazing at the cloud of fire over Kilauea, and
+wondering if the appearance of the crater could ever be grander than
+it was last night, when we were standing on its brim.
+
+So ended Christmas Day, 1876, at Hilo, in Hawaii. God grant that there
+may be many more as pleasant for us in store in the future!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+HAWAIIAN SPORTS.
+
+    _In wrestling nimble, and in running swift,_
+    _In shooting steady, and in swimming strong,_
+    _Well made to strike, to leap, to throw, to lift,_
+    _And all the sports that shepherds are among._
+
+
+_Tuesday, December 26th_.--We went ashore at eight o'clock, after an
+early cup of coffee, and found Mr. Lyman already waiting for us. Two
+baggage-mules were sent off with the photographic apparatus, and all
+the materials for breakfast, to the Rainbow Falls, where the children
+are looking forward with intense glee to boiling their own kettle,
+poaching eggs, and trying other cooking experiments.
+
+Before setting out for the Falls ourselves, we went to see the
+national sport of surf-swimming, for their skill in which the
+Hawaiians are so justly famed.
+
+The natives have many other games of which they are very fond, and
+which they play with great skill, including spear-throwing,
+transfixing an object with a dart, _kona_, an elaborate kind of
+draughts, and _talu_, which consists in hiding a small stone under one
+of five pieces of cloth, placed in front of the players. One hides the
+stone, and the others have to guess where it is; and it generally
+happens that, however dexterously the hider may put his arm beneath
+the cloth, and dodge about from one piece to another, a clever player
+will be able to tell, by the movement of the muscles of the upper part
+of his arm, when his fingers relax their hold of the stone. Another
+game, called _parua_, is very like the Canadian sport of 'tobogging,'
+only that it is carried on on the grass instead of on the snow. The
+performers stand bolt upright on a narrow plank, turned up in front,
+and steered with a sort of long paddle. They go to the top of a hill
+or mountain, and rush down the steep, grassy, sunburnt slopes at a
+tremendous pace, keeping their balance in a wonderful manner. There is
+also a very popular amusement, called _pahe_, requiring a specially
+prepared smooth floor, along which the javelins of the players glide
+like snakes. On the same floor they also play at another game, called
+_maita_, or _uru maita_. Two sticks, only a few inches apart, are
+stuck into the ground, and at a distance of thirty or forty yards the
+players strive to throw a stone between them. The _uru_ which they use
+for the purpose is a hard circular stone, three or four inches in
+diameter, and an inch in thickness at the edge, but thicker in the
+middle.
+
+Mr. Ellis, in his 'Polynesian Researches,' states that 'these stones
+are finely polished, highly valued, and carefully preserved, being
+always oiled or wrapped up in native cloth after having been used. The
+people are, if possible, more fond of this game than of the _pahe_,
+and the inhabitants of a district not unfrequently challenge the
+people of the whole island, or the natives of one island those of all
+the others, to bring a man who shall try his skill with some favourite
+player of their own district or island. On such occasions seven or
+eight thousand people, men and women, with their chiefs and
+chiefesses, assemble to witness the sport, which, as well as the
+_pahe_, is often continued for hours together.'
+
+With bows and arrows they are as clever as all savages, and
+wonderfully good shots, attempting many wonderful feats. They are
+swift as deer, when they choose, though somewhat lazy and indolent.
+All the kings and chiefs have been special adepts in the invigorating
+pastime of surf-swimming, and the present king's sisters are
+considered first-rate hands at it. The performers begin by swimming
+out into the bay, and diving under the huge Pacific rollers, pushing
+their surf-boards--flat pieces of wood, about four feet long by two
+wide, pointed at each end--edgewise before them. For the return
+journey they select a large wave; and then, either sitting, kneeling,
+or standing on their boards, rush in shorewards with the speed of a
+racehorse, on the curling crest of the monster, enveloped in foarn and
+spray, and holding on, as it were, by the milk-white manes of their
+furious coursers. It looked a most enjoyable amusement, and I should
+think that, to a powerful swimmer, with plenty of pluck, the feat is
+not difficult of accomplishment. The natives here are almost
+amphibious. They played all sorts of tricks in the water, some of the
+performers being quite tiny boys. Four strong rowers took a whale-boat
+out into the worst surf, and then, steering her by means of a large
+oar, brought her safely back to the shore on the top of a huge wave.
+
+After the conclusion of this novel entertainment, we all proceeded on
+horseback to the Falls, Baby going in front of Tom, and Muriel riding
+with Mr. Freer. After a couple of miles we dismounted, and had a short
+walk through grass and ferns to a pretty double waterfall, tumbling
+over a cliff, about 100 feet high, into a glassy pool of the river
+beneath. It fell in front of a fern-filled black lava cavern, over
+which a rainbow generally hangs. As it was too wet to sit on the grass
+after the rain, we took possession of the verandah of a native house,
+commanding a fine view of the bay and town of Hilo. The hot coffee and
+eggs were a great success eventually, though the smoke from the wood
+fire nearly suffocated us in the process of cooking. Excellent also
+was some grey mullet, brought to us alive, and cooked native
+fashion,--wrapped up in _ti_ leaves, and put into a hole in the
+ground.
+
+After taking a few photographs it was time to return; and we next went
+to a pretty garden, which we had seen on the night of our arrival,
+and, tying up our horses outside, walked across it to the banks of the
+river. Here we found a large party assembled, watching half the
+population of Hilo disporting themselves in, upon, and beneath the
+water. They climbed the almost perpendicular rocks on the opposite
+side of the stream, took headers, and footers, and siders from any
+height under five-and-twenty feet, dived, swam in every conceivable
+attitude, and without any apparent exertion, deep under the water, or
+upon its surface. But all this was only a preparation for the special
+sight we had come to see. Two natives were to jump from a precipice,
+100 feet high, into the river below, clearing on their way a rock
+which projected some twenty feet from the face of the cliff, at about
+the same distance from the summit. The two men, tall, strong, and
+sinewy, suddenly appeared against the sky-line, far above our heads,
+their long hair bound back by a wreath of leaves and flowers, while
+another garland encircled their waists. Having measured their distance
+with an eagle's glance, they disappeared from our sight, in order to
+take a run and acquire the necessary impetus. Every breath was held
+for a moment, till one of the men reappeared, took a bound from the
+edge of the rock, turned over in mid-air, and disappeared feet
+foremost into the pool beneath, to emerge almost immediately, and to
+climb the sunny bank as quietly as if he had done nothing very
+wonderful. His companion followed, and then the two clambered up to
+the twenty-feet projection, to clear which they had had to take such a
+run the first time, and once more plunged into the pool below. The
+feat was of course an easier one than the first; but still a leap of
+eighty feet is no light matter. A third native, who joined them in
+this exploit, gave one quite a turn as he twisted in his downward
+jump; but he also alighted in the water feet foremost, and bobbed up
+again directly, like a cork. He was quite a young man, and we
+afterwards heard that he had broken several ribs not more than a year
+ago, and had been laid up for six months in the hospital.
+
+We now moved our position a little higher up the river, to the Falls,
+over which the men, gliding down the shallow rapids above, in a
+sitting posture, allowed themselves to be carried. It looked a
+pleasant and easy feat, and was afterwards performed by many of the
+natives in all sorts of ways. Two or three of them would hold each
+other's shoulders, forming a child's train, or some would get on the
+backs of their companions, while others descended singly in a variety
+of attitudes. At last a young girl was also persuaded to attempt the
+feat. She looked very pretty as she started, in her white chemise and
+bright garland, and prettier still when she emerged from the white
+foam beneath the fall, and swam along far below the surface of the
+clear water, with her long black hair streaming out behind her.
+
+No description can give you any idea what an animated and
+extraordinary scene it was altogether. While our accounts were being
+settled, preparatory to our departure, I occupied myself in looking at
+some _kahilis_ and feather _leis._ The yellow ones, either of Oo or
+Mamo feathers, only found in this island, are always scarce, as the
+use of them is a prerogative of royalty and nobility. Just now it is
+almost impossible to obtain one, all the feathers being '_tabu_,' to
+make a royal cloak for Ruth, half-sister of Kamehameha V., and
+governess of Hawaii. Mamo feathers are generally worth a dollar a
+piece, and a good _lei_ or loose necklace costs about five hundred
+dollars. _Kahilis_ are also an emblem of rank, though many people use
+them as ornaments in their houses. They are rather like
+feather-brooms, two or three feet long, and three or four inches
+across, made of all sorts of feathers, tastefully interwoven. I bought
+one, and a couple of ordinary _leis_, which were all I could procure.
+But, alas! too soon all was over, and time for us to go on board.
+
+[Illustration: Feather Necklace]
+
+On our way off to the yacht we met one of the large double canoes
+coming in under sail from a neighbouring island. It consisted of two
+canoes lashed together, with a sort of basket dropped into the water
+between them, to enable them to carry their fish alive. They are not
+very common now, and we were therefore fortunate in meeting with one.
+Mr. Lyman made the men in charge turn her round, so as to afford us an
+opportunity of thoroughly examining her. In the time of Kamehameha
+there was a fleet of 10,000 of these canoes, and the king used to send
+them out in the roughest weather, and make them perform all sorts of
+manoeuvres.
+
+We found the yacht in the usual state of confusion incidental to a
+fresh departure, but everything was soon reduced to order, and off we
+started to steam and sail round the north end of the island, but we
+could not afford time to visit the place of Captain Cook's death and
+burial in Keelakeakua Bay. I believe there is not a great deal to see,
+however, and the spot is chiefly interesting from its associations.
+For many years a copper plate, fixed to a cocoa-nut tree, marked the
+spot where Cook fell, but this has now been replaced by a monument,
+the cost of which was defrayed by subscriptions at Honolulu. Maui is,
+I believe, a charming place, containing many fine plantations, and
+several gentlemen's estates, laid out in the English style.
+Unfortunately, time forbids our accepting some invitations we have
+received to visit the island, where a great many interesting
+excursions may be made.
+
+At Kahoolaue there does not seem much to be seen. It was purchased
+some years ago, and pays well as a sheep-run. Lauai, the next island,
+is scarcely inhabited, and its scenery is not remarkable.
+
+A sad interest attaches to the island of Molokai, which is situated
+midway between Maui and Oahu. It is the leper settlement, and to it
+all the victims of this terrible, loathsome, and incurable disease,
+unhappily so prevalent in the Hawaiian archipelago, are sent, in order
+to prevent the spread of the contagion. They are well cared for and
+looked after in every way; but their life, separated as they
+inevitably are from all they hold most dear, and with no prospect
+before them but that of a slow and cruel death, must indeed be a
+miserable one. In Molokai there are many tiny children, fatherless and
+motherless, parents without children, husbands without wives, wives
+without husbands, 'all condemned.' as Miss Bird says, 'to watch the
+repulsive steps by which each of their doomed fellows goes down to a
+loathsome death, knowing that by the same they too must pass.' A
+French priest has nobly devoted himself to the religious and secular
+instruction of the lepers, and up to the present time has enjoyed
+complete immunity from the disease; but even if he escapes this
+danger, he can _never_ return to his country and friends. When one
+thinks what that implies, and to what a death in life he has condemned
+himself for the sake of others, it seems impossible to doubt that he
+will indeed reap a rich reward hereafter.
+
+At two o'clock we saw Diamond Head, the easternmost headland of Oahu,
+rising from the sea. By four o'clock we were abreast of it, and
+steaming along the coast. The cape itself rises grandly from the midst
+of a grove of cocoa-nuts, and the shore all along, with the sharp high
+mountains of the Pali as a background, is fine and picturesque. A
+coral reef stretches far into the sea, and outside this we lay waiting
+for a pilot to take us into Honolulu Harbour.
+
+It was a long business mooring us by hawsers, from our stem and stern,
+but we were at last safely secured in a convenient place, a short
+distance from the shore, and where we should be refreshed by the sea
+breeze and the land breeze alternately. It was six o'clock, and nearly
+dark, when we reached the shore; the town seemed entirely deserted;
+all the little wooden houses were shut up, and there were no lights
+visible. The post-office was closed, but it was a terrible blow to
+hear there were no letters for us, though we still hoped that there
+might be some at the British Consulate.
+
+After a short time we returned on board the yacht in time for a late
+dinner. The first lieutenant of H.M.S. 'Fantome' came on board to pay
+us a visit during the evening, and told us all the latest English and
+American news, lending us some files of English papers--a great treat,
+but no compensation for our disappointment about the letters.
+
+_Thursday, December 28th_.--Tom and I went ashore at seven o'clock to
+make arrangements for repairing our mizen-sail. We soon found a
+sailmaker, who promised to set all hands to work and complete the job
+as quickly as possible. Being detained by a heavy shower of rain, we
+occupied the time in a gossip about Honolulu and its sayings and
+doings. When the shower was over, we walked through the town, which is
+clean and tidy, being laid out in squares, after the American style.
+The houses are all of wood, and generally have verandahs overhanging
+the street. They are seldom more than one story high, and nearly all
+have a little greenery about them.
+
+We returned to the yacht for breakfast, and, having heard that no
+sharks ever came into the long, narrow bay, were able to enjoy, in
+perfect peace of mind, the luxury of a bath overboard. It is a great
+pity that in the tropics, where bathing is such a delightful
+occupation, and where one might swim and paddle about for hours
+without fear of getting cold, it is often impossible even to enter the
+water for fear of the sharks. The natives are such expert swimmers
+that they do not seem to think much of this danger. As the shark turns
+on his back to take a bite at them, they dive underneath him, and he
+snaps his jaws on emptiness. In fact, sometimes the swimmer will take
+advantage of the opportunity to stab his enemy as he passes beneath
+him.
+
+Scarcely was breakfast over when we were inundated with visitors, who
+kindly came to see what they could do for us to make our stay
+agreeable. We lunched on shore, and afterwards went to the new
+Government buildings and museum. From thence we strolled to the
+various shops where 'curios' and photographs are to be bought, and
+collected a goodly store, returning on board the yacht to find more
+visitors.
+
+[Illustration: War Necklace[13]]
+
+[Footnote 13: The accompanying sketch is from a necklace that belonged
+to King Kamehameha I., and was given to me by one of his descendants.]
+
+We lunched on shore, and afterwards went with Mr. Chambre,
+navigating-lieutenant of the 'Fantome,' to the new Government
+buildings. There we found an excellent English library, and an
+interesting collection of books printed in English and Hawaiian, on
+alternate pages, including alphabets, grammars, the old familiar
+nursery tales, &c. There is also a good, though small museum,
+containing specimens of beautiful corals, shells, seaweeds, and
+fossils; all the ancient native weapons, such as bows, arrows, swords,
+and spears--now, alas! no longer procurable--sling-stones, and stones
+used in games, back-scratchers, hair-ornaments made of sharks' teeth,
+tortoise-shell cups and spoons, calabashes and bowls. There were some
+most interesting though somewhat horrible necklaces made of hundreds
+of braids of human hair cut from the heads of victims slain by the
+chiefs themselves; from these braids was suspended a monstrous hook
+carved from a large whale's tooth, called a Paloola, regarded by the
+natives as a sort of idol. There are models of ancient and modern
+canoes--the difference between which is not very great,--paddles,
+inlaid with mother-of-pearl, old war-masks, and dresses still in use
+in the less frequented islands, anklets of human teeth, and many other
+things far too numerous to mention. The most interesting of all were,
+perhaps, the old feather war cloaks, like the ancient _togas_ of the
+Romans. They are made of thousands of yellow, red, and black feathers,
+of the _oo, niamo,_ and _eine_, taken singly and fastened into a sort
+of network of string, so as to form a solid fabric, like the richest
+velvet or plush, that glitters like gold in the sunlight. The helmets,
+made of the same feathers, but worked on to a frame of perfect Grecian
+shape, similar to those seen in the oldest statuary or on the Elgin
+marbles, are even more artistic and elegant. Whence came the idea and
+design? Untutored savages could scarcely have evolved them out of
+their own heads. Some element of civilisation, and of highly artistic
+civilisation too, must surely have existed among them at some remote
+period of their history.
+
+[Illustration: Ancient War Masks and Costumes from the Museum at
+Honolulu]
+
+_Friday, December 29th_.--We had a bathe overboard early this morning.
+The children were ashore at half-past nine, to go and spend the day at
+a friend's, at the top of the Nuuanu Avenue, on the road to the Pali.
+
+The King's two sisters came to call on us in the morning with their
+respective husbands. We had a great many visitors all the morning,
+till it was time to go to lunch; after which we went to call on the
+Princess Likelike, who drove me to Waikiki, to see her sister, the
+Princess Kamakaeha, at her country residence, a very large native
+grass house, with an enormous verandah. Both ladies are married to
+Englishmen, and live partly in English style. Inside there is a
+spacious drawing-room, well furnished, with pictures and nick-nacks,
+where we spent a pleasant half-hour in the gloaming. The sunset, over
+Diamond Head, and the sea, which was just visible through the
+cocoa-nut trees, was splendid. Both the Princesses were as kind as
+they could be. The royal family have formed quite a little colony
+here. The King's house is next door, and that of the Prince Leleiohoku
+is not far off. They all come here in the most unpretending way
+possible, and amuse themselves by fishing and bathing.
+
+It had been quite dark for some time, when the Princess Likelike
+dropped me at the hotel at half-past seven, where I found Tom and Mr.
+Freer waiting for me. We had a quiet dinner, and then went for a
+stroll. It was a fine clear night, with an almost full moon. The
+streets were full of equestrians, riding about in pairs, for there was
+to be a great riding party up to the Pali to-night, the _rendezvous_
+for which was in Emma Square. Every lady had to select and bring with
+her an attendant cavalier.[14]
+
+[Footnote 14: The event was thus announced in the 'Hawaiian
+Gazette:'--'THE LAST CHANCE.--We are informed that a riding party will
+come off on Friday evening, when all the young ladies who desire to
+participate are expected to be on hand, each with the cavalier whom
+she may invite. As leap-year is drawing to a close it is expected that
+this opportunity will be extensively embraced. Place of rendezvous,
+Emma Square: time, seven-thirty; Luminary for the occasion, a full
+moon.']
+
+There are no side-saddles in any of these islands; all the ladies
+ride like men, and sit their horses very well. They wear long
+riding-dresses, cleverly and elegantly adapted to the exigencies of
+the situation, generally of some light material, and of _very_ bright
+colours. The effect of a large party galloping along, with wreaths and
+garlands in their hats and necks, and with their long skirts floating
+in the wind, is therefore picturesque and strange in the extreme.
+
+_Saturday, December 30th_.--Mabelle, Muriel, and I, were up early, and
+went off to the coral-reef before seven in the 'Flash.' It is very
+beautiful, but not so fine as those we have already seen at Tahiti and
+other South Sea Islands. We collected four or the distinct varieties
+of coral, and saw many marvellous creatures swimming about or sticking
+to the rocks. There were several canoes full of natives fishing, who
+appeared highly amused when we ran aground on a coral tree, as
+happened more than once. It was a pleasant way of spending the early
+morning in the bright sunshine, peering into the dark blue and light
+green depths below.
+
+Breakfast was ready by the time we returned on board, and soon
+afterwards I went on shore to pay some visits and to do some shopping.
+We went first to the fish-market, which presented a most animated
+scene, owing not only to the abundance of the dead produce of air,
+earth, and sea, which it contained, but to the large number of gaily
+attired purchasers.
+
+Saturday is a half-holiday in Oahu, and all the plantation and mill
+hands came galloping into Honolulu on horseback, chattering and
+laughing, dressed in the brightest colours, and covered with flowers.
+The latter are not so plentiful nor so beautiful as in Tahiti, but
+still, to our English eyes, they appear very choice. For fruit, too,
+we have been spoilt in the South Seas. The fish-market here, however,
+is unrivalled.
+
+Fish--raw or cooked--is the staple food of the inhabitants, and almost
+everybody we saw had half-a-dozen or more brilliant members of the
+finny tribe, wrapped up in fresh green banana leaves, ready to carry
+home. Shrimps are abundant and good. They are caught both in salt and
+fresh water, and the natives generally eat them alive, putting them
+into their mouths, ana either letting them hop down their throats, or
+crushing them between their teeth while they are still wriggling
+about. It looks a very nasty thing to do, but, after all, it is not
+much worse than our eating oysters alive.
+
+[Illustration: Chalcedon Imperator.]
+
+From the fish-market we went to the prison, a large and apparently
+admirably managed establishment, built of stone, and overlooking the
+harbour. After a pleasant drive along shady fragrant roads, we
+returned to Emma Square, to hear the excellent performance of the
+Saturday afternoon band. There was a good assemblage of people, on
+horseback, in carriages, and on foot, and crowds of children, all more
+or less white, languid, and sickly-looking. Poor mites! I suppose the
+climate is too hot for European constitutions. Still, they abound
+among the foreigners, while the natives are gradually, but surely,
+dying out. Among the whole royal family there is only one child, a
+dear little girl of rather more than a year old. Princess Kauilani
+('Sent from Heaven') she is always called, though she has a very long
+string of additional names. She is heiress-presumptive to the throne,
+and is thought a good deal of by everybody. Among twenty of the
+highest chiefs' families there is only one baby. On the other hand,
+all the foreign consuls, ministers, missionaries, and other white
+residents, appear to have an average of at least half a dozen in each
+family.
+
+After the performance was over, we walked to the Princess Likelike's
+house, where we were entertained at a _poi_ supper. The garden was
+illuminated, the band played and a choir sang alternately, while
+everybody sat out in the verandah, or strolled about the garden, or
+did what they liked best. Prince Leleiohoku took me in to supper,
+which was served in the native fashion, in calabashes and on leaves,
+laid on mats on the floor, in the same manner as the feast at Tahiti.
+The walls of the dining-room were made of palm-leaves and bananas, and
+the roof was composed of the standards of the various members of the
+royal family, gracefully draped. At one end of the long table, where
+the Prince and I sat, there was his special royal standard, as
+heir-apparent, and just behind us were stationed a couple of women,
+with two large and handsome _kahilis_, which they waved incessantly
+backwards and forwards. The viands were much the same as at
+Tahiti--raw seaweed, which was eaten with each mouthful, being
+substituted for the chopped cocoa-nut and salt-water. The carved _koa_
+bowls, which were in constant requisition as finger-glasses, were
+specially elegant and useful-looking articles. _Poi_ is generally
+eaten from a bowl placed between two people, by dipping three fingers
+into it, giving them a twirl round, and then sucking them. It sounds
+rather nasty; but, as a matter of fact, it is so glutinous a mixture
+that you really only touch the particles that stick to your fingers.
+The latter you wash after each mouthful, so that there is nothing so
+very dreadful about it after all. There was a quantity of raw fish,
+which I did not touch, but which some of our party thought most
+excellent, besides dried and cooked fish, which seemed very good,
+fried candle-nuts, baked pig, and many other delicacies. We could get
+however, nothing to drink. After supper, we returned to the house,
+where we found an abundance of champagne and other wines, cakes, and
+biscuits.
+
+About twelve o'clock we thought it was time to say good-bye, as it was
+Saturday night. Beneath a brilliant full moon the drive to the wharf
+and row off in the boat were delightful.
+
+_Sunday, December 31st_.--I was on deck at six o'clock, and saw what I
+had often heard about--a team of twenty oxen, driven by a man in a
+cart, drawing by means of a rope, about a quarter of a mile in length,
+a large ship through the opening in the reef, the man and cattle being
+upon the coral.[15]
+
+[Footnote 15: The following notice appeared in the _Hawaiian Gazette_
+recently: 'TO BE REPAIRED.--That staunch little craft the "Pele,"
+which Capt. Brown has for so long a time successfully commanded, is
+now being hauled up for the purpose of repairs. She will probably be
+laid up for six or eight weeks, and in the meantime the antique plan
+of towing vessels in and out of the harbour with teams of oxen on the
+reef will be resumed.']
+
+About half-past eight Mabelle and I were just going overboard for a
+swim, when I thought I saw the upper fin of an old familiar enemy, and
+directly afterwards the cry was echoed all over the ship, 'A shark, a
+shark!' It was a ground shark, and very nearly aground in the shallow
+water. They say this is the worst kind of all, and on making inquiry I
+was told that the safest way to enjoy a dip here is to bathe with a
+number of other people. The splashing and noise made by a whole ship's
+company frighten the sharks away. This discovery puts an end therefore
+to our hopes of enjoying an occasional peaceful bath.
+
+We went to eleven o'clock service at the cathedral. It is a pleasant
+small building, beautifully cool, and well adapted to this climate.
+The Bishop was unfortunately away, but the service was well performed.
+
+Later, Tom read the evening service to the men, and we afterwards
+landed and dined late at the hotel; so late, indeed, that we could
+hardly get anything to eat, and they began to shut up the room and put
+out the lights before we had half done. Luckily, we were a large
+party, and an indignant protest and threatened appeal to the landlord
+brought the Chinese waiters to their senses, and induced them to grant
+us half an hour's law. On our way back to the boat, the streets looked
+much more lively than they had hitherto done, being full of people
+returning from rides, drives, and excursions into the country. As a
+rule, directly after dark not a creature is to be seen about the
+streets, for every one disappears in the most mysterious manner.
+
+We went on board, and sat in the calm moonlight, thinking and talking
+over the events of the year, whose end was so swiftly approaching, and
+wondering what its successor may have in store for us. So ends, with
+all its joys and sorrows, its pleasures and pains, its hopes and
+fears, for us, the now old year, 1876.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+
+HONOLULU--DEPARTURE FOR JAPAN.
+
+    _Years following years, steal something every day;_
+    _At last they steal us from ourselves away._
+
+
+_Monday, January 1st, 1877_.--At midnight we were awakened by our
+ship's bell, and that of the 'Fantome,' being struck violently sixteen
+times. For the moment I could not imagine what it meant, and thought
+it must be an alarm of fire; indeed, it was not until Tom and I
+reached the deck, where we found nearly all the ship's company
+assembled at the top of the companion, and were greeted with wishes
+for 'A happy New Year, and many of them,' that we quite realised that
+nothing serious was the matter. Soon the strains of sweet music,
+proceeding from the Honolulu choirs, which had come out in boats to
+serenade us, fell upon our ears The choristers remained alongside for
+more than an hour, singing English and American sacred and secular
+hymns and songs, and then went off to the 'Fantome,' where they
+repeated the performance. The moon shone brightly; not a ripple
+disturbed the surface of the water; the cocoa-trees at Waikiki, and
+the distant mountains near the Pali, were all clearly defined against
+the dark blue sky. It was altogether a romantic and delicious scene,
+and we found it difficult to tear ourselves away from the sweet sounds
+which came floating over the sea.
+
+When I again went on deck, at half-past six, there was a large double
+canoe close to the yacht, crowded with people. It was difficult to
+make out what they were doing, for they appeared to be sitting on a
+great heap of something, piled up between the two canoes. Our sailors
+suggested that it must be 'some sort of a New Year's set out.' I
+ordered the 'Flash' to be got ready, and went with the children to
+make a closer investigation; and, as we approached, we could see that
+the pile that had puzzled us was a huge fishing-net. The tide here is
+very uncertain; but as soon as the water is low enough, they stretch
+the long net right across the narrow mouth of the harbour, and so
+secure an enormous quantity of fish of various kinds. It was a really
+good New Year's haul, and provided a hearty meal for a great many
+people.
+
+Mabelle and I went at twelve o'clock to the Queen's New Year's
+reception, held in the other wing of the palace. Having driven through
+the pretty gardens, we were received at the entrance by the Governor,
+and ushered through two reception rooms into the royal presence. The
+Queen was dressed in a European court-dress, of blue and white
+material, with the Hawaiian Order of the Garter across her breast. Two
+maids of honour were also in court-dress. Of the other ladies, some
+were in evening, some in morning dress, some with bonnets and some
+without; but their costumes were all made according to the European
+fashion, except that of her Highness Ruth, the Governess of Hawaii,
+who looked wonderfully well in a rich white silk native dress, trimmed
+with white satin. She had a necklace of orange-coloured _oo_ feathers
+round her neck, and dark yellow alamanda flowers in her hair. This
+native costume is a most becoming style of dress, especially to the
+chiefs and chiefesses, who are all remarkably tall and handsome, with
+a stately carriage and dignified manner. The Queen stood in front of
+the throne, on which were spread the royal robes, a long mantle of
+golden feathers, without speck or blemish. On each side stood two men,
+dressed in black, wearing frock-coats, and capes of red, black, and
+yellow feathers over their shoulders, and chimney-pot hats on their
+heads. In their hands they held two enormous _kahilis_ of black _oo_
+feathers, with handsome tortoise-shell and ivory handles. They were at
+least eight feet high altogether, and the feathers were about six
+inches across.
+
+The Princess presented Mabelle and me to her Majesty, and we had a
+short conversation through a lady interpreter. It is always an
+embarrassing thing to carry on a conversation in this way, especially
+when you find yourself in the midst of a square formed by a large
+crowd of ladies, who you fancy are all gazing at you, the one stranger
+present, and I was glad when fresh people arrived, and her Majesty's
+attention was claimed elsewhere.
+
+Queen Kapiolani is a nice-looking woman, with a very pleasing
+expression of countenance. She is the granddaughter of the heroic
+Princess Kapiolani, who, when the worship and fear of the goddess Pele
+were at their height, walked boldly up to the crater of Kilauea, in
+defiance of the warnings and threats of the high-priestess of the
+idolatrous rites, proclaiming her confidence in the power of her God,
+the God of the Christians, to preserve her. This act did much to
+assist in the establishment of Christianity in the Island of Hawaii,
+and to shake the belief of the native worshippers of Pele in the power
+of the fearful goddess.
+
+The Princess showed me round the room which contains the portraits of
+the kings and queens of the Sandwich Islands for many generations, the
+early ones attired in their feather capes, the later ones dressed in
+European costumes. Most of them were the work of native artists, but
+the portraits of Kamehameha II. and his queen were painted, during
+their visit to England, by a good artist. Their Majesties are depicted
+in the height of the fashion of the day, the king wearing a blue coat
+and brass buttons, with many orders on his breast, the queen having on
+a very short-waisted, tight-fitting white satin dress, a turban
+surmounted by a tremendous plume of white feathers, and a pearl
+necklace and bracelets: rather a trying costume for a handsome woman
+with a dark complexion and portly figure. They both died in England,
+and their remains were brought back here for burial, in H.M.S.
+'Blonde,' commanded by Lord Byron. There was also a portrait of
+Admiral Thomas, whose memory is highly reverenced here for the happy
+way in which he succeeded in terminating the disputes arising out of
+our claim to the island in 1843, and in restoring King Kamehameha III.
+to his own again.
+
+[Illustration: Feathered Cloak and Helmets.]
+
+The collection likewise included excellent portraits of Louis Philippe
+and Napoleon III. Curiously enough, each of these was sent off from
+France to the Sandwich Islands, by way of Cape Horn, while the
+original was in the zenith of his power and fame; and each reached its
+destination after the original had been deposed and had fled to
+England for refuge.
+
+But the most interesting object of all was still to come--the real
+feather cloak, cape, and girdle of the Kamehamehas, not generally to
+be seen, except at a coronation or christening, but which the Princess
+Kamakaeha, in her capacity of Mistress of the Robes, had kindly
+ordered to be put out for my inspection. The cloak, which is now the
+only one of the kind in existence, is about eleven feet long by five
+broad, and is composed of the purest yellow, or rather golden,
+feathers, which, in the sunlight, are perfectly gorgeous, as they have
+a peculiar kind of metallic lustre, quite independent of their
+brilliant colour.
+
+[Illustration: The Pali-Oahu]
+
+On leaving the palace I had intended to get some lunch at the hotel,
+but found that establishment was closed to the general public, and was
+in the possession of a native teetotal society; so I was obliged to
+return to the yacht. At half-past three, however, we all went ashore
+again, and set out on horseback, a large party, for an excursion to
+the Pali, the children, servants, and provisions preceding us in a
+light two-horse American wagon. We rode through the Nuuanu Avenue, and
+then up the hills, along a moderately good road, for about seven miles
+and a half. This, brought us into a narrow gorge in the midst of the
+mountains, from which we emerged on the other side of the central
+range of hills, forming the backbone of the island. The view from this
+point was beautiful, though I think that the morning would be a better
+time to enjoy it, as, with a setting sun, the landscape was all in
+shadow. The change of temperature, too, after the heat of Honolulu,
+was quite astonishing, considering the short distance we had
+come--about eight miles only. The carriage could not go quite to the
+top of the mountain, and after descending a short distance to where it
+had been left, we dismounted and spread our dinner on the ground; but
+darkness overtook us before we had finished. Matches and lamps had of
+course been forgotten; so that the business of packing up was
+performed under circumstances of great difficulty. The ride down, in
+the light of the almost full moon, was delightful.
+
+We were on board by half-past seven, and went ashore to a ball at nine
+o'clock. The dance took place in the large room of the Hawaiian Hotel,
+and was a great success. The Royal band played for us, and there was
+neither stuffiness nor crowding, nor were there any regulations as to
+dress, gentlemen and ladies coming in evening or morning dress, as it
+suited them best. The Governor and most of the English present,
+including our own party, wore evening dress, and the officers of the
+'Fantome' were in uniform. Every door and window was open, there was a
+large verandah to sit in, a garden to stroll about in between the
+dances, and an abundance of delicious iced lemonade--very different
+from the composition thus named which is generally met with in London
+assemblies--to drink. At half-past twelve, when people were beginning
+to disperse, we took our departure, Captain Long taking us off to the
+yacht in his boat.
+
+There is to be another ball on Thursday night, for which everybody is
+most anxious that we should stay, as it is to be rather a large
+affair. In order that you may see the Hawaiian fashion of sending out
+cards, I copy the form of invitation we received:--
+
+_The pleasure of the company of Mr. and Mrs.
+Thos. Brassey is requested at a Subscription Ball,
+at the Hawaiian Hotel,_
+
+      ON THURSDAY EVENING, JANUARY 4, 1877, AT 8 O'CLOCK.
+
+  _Respectfully,                        H.A. Widemann,_
+
+                                      FOR THE COMMITTEE.
+
+  _Mrs. Jas. Makee and Mrs. J.S. McGrew will kindly act as matrons
+  of the evening._
+
+
+_Tuesday, January 2nd_.--At eleven o'clock, the King, who was rather
+better, went on board the 'Fantome,' saw the men at quarters, and
+witnessed the firing of a couple of shots at a target, and shortly
+before twelve paid us a visit, accompanied by the Prince Leleiohoku
+and others. His Majesty is a tall, fine-looking man, with pleasant
+manners, and speaks English perfectly and fluently. He and the Prince
+visited and examined every corner of the yacht, and looked, I think,
+at almost every object on board. The pictures, curiosities, engines,
+and our various little contrivances for economising space, seemed to
+interest them the most. The inspection occupied at least an hour and a
+half; and when it was over, we had a long chat on deck on various
+subjects. The Prince of Wales's visit to India, and the Duke of
+Edinburgh's voyage round the world, were much discussed, I think the
+King would like to use them as a precedent, and see a little more of
+the world himself. His voyage to, and stay in America, he thoroughly
+enjoyed.
+
+It was two o'clock before our visitors left; and a quarter of an hour
+later the Queen and her sister arrived. Her Majesty and her sister
+made quite as minute an inspection of the yacht as her royal consort
+and his brother had done before them. We had arranged to be 'at home'
+to all our kind friends in Honolulu at four o'clock, at which hour
+precisely the Governor sent the Royal band on board to enliven the
+proceedings. Soon our other visitors began to arrive; but the Queen
+appeared to be so well amused that she did not leave until five
+o'clock. By-half-past six, the last of our guests (over 150 in number)
+had said farewell, and there only remained the band to be shown round
+and feasted after their labours. Tom went on board the 'Fantome' to
+dine, and to meet the British, French, German, and American
+representatives. We went to the hotel; and I must say that I never in
+my life felt more thoroughly worn out than I did that night, after
+standing about and receiving and entertaining all the day.
+
+_Wednesday, January 3rd_.--This was sure to be a disagreeable day,
+since it was to be the concluding one of our short stay in this
+pleasant place. The final preparations for a long voyage had also to
+be made; stores, water, and live stock to be got on board, bills to be
+paid, and adieux to be made to kind friends.
+
+I was on deck at six o'clock, in order to take some photographs and to
+stow away the coral, shells, curiosities, and presents of various
+kinds, that the King, Queen, Prince and Princess, as well as other
+kind friends, had sent us. Before seven the yacht was surrounded by
+boats, and the deck was quite impassable, so encumbered was it with
+all sorts of lumber, waiting to be stowed away, until the boats could
+be hoisted on board and secured for the voyage. The large mizen-sail,
+which had just been repaired and sent on board, looked enormous as it
+lay on the deck, surrounded by hen-coops, sheep, geese, sacks of coal,
+and baskets and parcels of every size and shape. One really began to
+wonder whether space could possibly be found on board for such a
+miscellaneous collection. Several visitors, who had been unable to
+come yesterday, arrived in the midst of the confusion. They must have
+carried away in their minds a different impression of the yacht from
+what they would have done had they seen her looking as trim and smart
+as she did yesterday. It could not, however, be helped; for the
+departure of a small vessel, with forty people on board, on a voyage
+of a month's duration, is a matter requiring considerable preparation.
+
+At eleven o'clock we landed and went to see the interior of the
+Queen's Hospital. It is a fine and well-kept building, containing, at
+the time of our visit, about ninety patients, the men occupying the
+lower, the women the upper story. Each ward is tastefully decorated
+with bouquets, and the name is written up in bright mauve
+bougainvillea or scarlet hibiscus, tacked on to white calico. Many of
+the convalescents wore wreaths and garlands of flowers, and even those
+in bed had a few beside them, or in some cases a single spray laid on
+the coverlet. The effect was bright and cheerful; and it seemed a kind
+and sensible idea to endeavour to gratify, instead of to repress, the
+instinctive love of flowers universally felt by the natives of these
+and of the South Sea Islands.
+
+From the hospital we went to pay farewell visits, to lunch at the
+hotel, and to settle sundry bills. At three we were to go to the Royal
+Mausoleum. This was a special privilege, and, I believe, the greatest
+compliment that has been paid to us anywhere. No foreigners are
+allowed to enter, except admirals on the station; and very few
+inhabitants of Honolulu have ever seen the interior. The King has one
+key, the Dowager Queen Emma another, and the Minister of the Interior
+the third.
+
+On our way up the hill to the Mausoleum, there was a funeral going on,
+very much after the style of an Irish wake in one of the dwellings of
+the poorer class. The house was decorated with flags, and was crowded
+with people, all dressed in black, and generally with bright yellow
+_leis_ over their heads and necks. They had evidently come from some
+distance, judging by the number of carts and wagons drawn up outside
+the door. Several people were sitting in an upper verandah. The corpse
+was laid out in the lower room, facing the road, as we could see
+through the open windows and door. It was surrounded by mourners, and
+four women were waving large _kahilis_ slowly backwards and forwards
+in front of it.
+
+The Princess herself met us at the Mausoleum, which is a small but
+handsome stone Gothic building, situated above the Nuuanu Avenue, on
+the road to the Pali. It commands a fine view over land and sea, and
+the gentle breezes waft through the open windows sweet scents from the
+many fragrant trees and flowers by which it is surrounded. There lay
+the coffins of all the kings of Hawaii, their consorts, and their
+children, for many generations past. The greater part were of polished
+_koa_ wood, though some were covered with red velvet ornamented with
+gold. Many of them appeared to be of an enormous size; for, as I have
+already observed, the chiefs of these islands have almost invariably
+been men of large and powerful frames. The bones of Kamehameha I. were
+in a square oak chest. At the foot of the coffin of Kamehameha IV.
+there were two immense _kahilis_ about twelve feet high, one of
+rose-coloured, the other of black feathers, with tortoise-shell
+handles. The remains of King Luna'ilo are not here, having been buried
+just outside the native church in the town. In the vestibule to the
+tombs of the kings rests the coffin of Mr. Wylie, described as 'the
+greatest European benefactor of the Hawaiian people.' A ship now in
+the harbour bears his name, and one constantly meets with proofs of
+the respect and reverence in which his name is held.
+
+The Princess drove us down to the wharf, where we said good-bye to her
+with feelings of the greatest regret. I cannot express the sorrow
+that we all feel at leaving the many kind friends we have met with in
+'dear Honolulu,' as Muriel calls it. But the farewells were at last
+over, the anchor was weighed, and the yacht, which was by this time
+once more in apple-pie order, began slowly to move ahead. Suddenly we
+heard shouts from the shore, and saw a boat pursuing us in hot haste.
+We stopped, and received on board a basket of beautiful ferns and
+other parcels from different friends. A second boat was then seen
+coming off to us, which contained a fine dish of delicious honey and
+some flowers. The order to go ahead again was scarcely given, before a
+third boat, in, if possible, hotter haste than the two previous ones,
+put off after us, bringing some things the laundress had forgotten.
+
+[Illustration: ZEUS CILIARIS]
+
+Now we are fairly off; and now surely the last link that binds us to
+the shore is broken. But no! there are farewell signals and hearty
+cheers yet to come from the officers and men of the 'Fantome;' and,
+still further out, on the top of the tiny lighthouse at the mouth of
+the narrow passage through the reef, stand other friends, cheering and
+waving their handkerchiefs. They had rowed out thither, being
+determined to give us really _the_ parting cheer, and till the shades
+of twilight fell we could see their white handkerchiefs fluttering,
+and hear their voices borne on the evening breeze, as we meandered
+slowly through the tortuous channels into deep water.
+
+Once outside we found there was plenty of wind and a heavy roll, which
+sent me quickly to bed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+
+HONOLULU TO YOKOHAMA.
+
+    _As slow our ship her foamy track_
+    _Against the wind was cleaving,_
+    _Her trembling pennant still look'd back_
+    _To that dear isle 'twas leaving._
+
+_Thursday, January 4th_.--It was very rough, but fortunately the wind
+came from a favourable quarter. Sorry as we all were to bid farewell
+to these charming islands, I could not help rejoicing that we had
+picked up a fresh fair wind so unexpectedly soon.
+
+While we were at Honolulu a regular epidemic of influenza prevailed in
+the place, affecting both man and beast. This is often the case during
+the prevalence of the south wind, which blew, more or less, during the
+whole of our stay. We none of us suffered from the malady at the time,
+but now nearly everybody on board is affected, and some very severely.
+
+_Friday, January 5th_.--The fresh fair breeze still continues. At noon
+we had sailed 240 knots. The head-sea we could dispense with, as it
+makes us all very uncomfortable. Muriel, Baby, the three maids, and
+several of the crew, are ill to-day with influenza, and I have a
+slight touch of it, so I suppose it will go right through the ship.
+Towards the evening the breeze increased to a gale.
+
+_Saturday, January 6th_.--The gale increased during the night, and the
+head-sea became heavier. There was a good deal of rain in the course
+of the day. The wind dropped about sunset, and was succeeded by
+intervals of calm, with occasional sharp squalls. Baby was very
+poorly all day, but seemed better at night. We have now regularly
+settled down to our sea life again, and, if only the children recover,
+I hope to get through a good deal of reading and writing between this
+and Japan. At present they occupy all my time and attention, but I
+think, like the weather, they have now taken a turn for the better.
+
+_Sunday, January 7th_.--A very rough and disagreeable day, with much
+rain. All the morning we rolled about, becalmed, in a heavy swell.
+Steam was ordered at half-past twelve, but before it was up the fair
+wind had returned, so the fires were put out. We had the Litany at
+eleven, and a short service, without a sermon, at four.
+
+Baby was _very_ ill all night. Everything was shut up on account of
+the torrents of rain, so that the heat was almost insufferable, and we
+tossed and tumbled about in the most miserable manner.
+
+_Monday, January 8th_.--All the early part of the morning we were in
+the greatest anxiety about Baby; she could hardly draw her breath, and
+lay in her cot, or on her nurse's lap, almost insensible, and quite
+blue in the face, in spite of the application of mustard, hot water,
+and every remedy we could think of. The influenza with her has taken
+the form of bronchitis and pleurisy. The other children are still
+ailing. Heavy squalls of wind and rain, and continuous rolling,
+prevailed throughout the day.
+
+_Tuesday, January 9th_.--The wind fell light, and the weather
+improved; but we tumbled about more than ever. The thermometer in the
+nursery stood at 90 deg.. The children are a shade better.
+
+_Wednesday, January 10th_.--Very hot, and a flat calm. Steam was up at
+7.30 a.m. Mabelle is convalescent; Muriel not so well; Baby certainly
+better. In the afternoon one of the boiler-tubes burst. It was
+repaired, and we went on steaming. In the evening it burst again, and
+was once more repaired, without causing a long stoppage.
+
+(_Thursday, January 11th_, had no existence for us, as, in the
+process of crossing the 180th meridian, we have lost a day.)
+
+_Friday, January 12th_.--Wednesday morning with us was Tuesday evening
+with people in England, and we were thus twelve hours in advance of
+them. To-day the order of things is reversed, and we are now twelve
+hours behind our friends at home. Having quitted one side of the map
+of the world (according to Mercator's projection), and entered upon
+the other half, we begin to feel that we are at last really 'homeward
+bound.'
+
+At four a.m. Powell woke us with the announcement that the boiler-tube
+had again burst, and that we had consequently ceased steaming. Letting
+off steam, and blowing out the boiler, made a tremendous noise, which
+aroused everybody in the ship. It was a lovely morning, but a flat
+calm, and the sun rose magnificently. The few light clouds near the
+surface of the water caught and reflected the rays of light most
+brilliantly before the sun itself appeared, and assumed all manner of
+fanciful shapes.
+
+About six o'clock a very light breeze sprang up, which increased
+during the day; but the sea remained perfectly calm. We think we must
+have got into the trade again. This weather is indeed a luxury after
+all the knocking about we have lately gone through; and I feel as if I
+could never rest enough. The constant effort to maintain one's
+balance, whether sitting, standing, or moving about, has been most
+fatiguing, and the illness of the children has made matters worse.
+Baby is, I hope, now quite out of danger.
+
+_Saturday, January 13th_.--The engineers made up their minds that we
+were in the trade winds again yesterday, and that we should not want
+the engines for some days. They therefore did not hurry on with the
+repairs as they should have done. This morning there was a calm, and
+when Tom ordered steam to be got up at once, the reply was,
+'Please, sir, the engine won't be ready till night.' This was
+annoying; but they worked extra hard all day, and by 4 p.m. steam was
+raised. At six a nice little breeze sprang up, which freshened during
+the evening, and at midnight orders were given to stop steaming.
+
+We had another bad night of it--a head wind, the sea washing over the
+decks, everything shut up, and the thermometer standing at 90 deg..
+
+_Sunday, January 14th_.--I was on deck at 4 a.m. The Southern Cross,
+the Great Bear, and the North Star, were shining with a brilliancy
+that eclipsed all the other stars.
+
+During the day the wind freshened to a squally gale. Sometimes we were
+going ten, sometimes thirteen, and sometimes fifteen knots through the
+water, knocking about a good deal all the while. Service was an
+impossibility; cooking and eating, indeed, were matters of difficulty.
+It rained heavily, and the seas came over the deck continually.
+
+Many of the sailors and servants were ill. I was hopelessly so.
+Nothing annoys me more than to find that, after having sailed tens and
+tens of thousands of miles, I cannot cure myself of sea-sickness. I
+can stand a good deal more rolling than I once could; but still, many
+are the days when nothing but the firmest determination not to think
+about it, but to find something to do, and to do it with all my might,
+keeps me on my feet at all. Fewer, happily, are the days when
+struggling is of no avail, when I am utterly and hopelessly
+incapacitated, ignominiously and literally laid flat on my back, and
+when no effort of will can enable me to do what I most wish to
+accomplish. If only some physician could invent a sovereign remedy for
+sea-sickness, he would deserve well of his country, and of mankind in
+general.
+
+_Monday, January 15th_.--I woke once or twice in the night, and felt
+exactly as if I were being pulled backwards through the water by my
+hair. We were rushing and tearing along at such a pace, against a head
+sea, that it almost took one's breath away. But at noon we were
+rewarded for all discomfort by finding that we had run 298 sea, or 343
+land miles, in 24 hours, and that between 8.14 yesterday and 8.15
+to-day we had made 302 knots, or 347 land miles--nearly 350 miles in
+the 24 hours--under very snug canvas, and through a heavy sea. The
+wind still continued fair and fresh, but the sea was much quieter, and
+we all felt comparatively comfortable. More sails were set during the
+afternoon. Some albatrosses and long-tailed tropic birds were seen
+hovering about us. The moon begins to give a good light now, and we
+found it very pleasant on deck this evening.
+
+_Wednesday, January 17th_.--It was a fine warm morning, and we got the
+children on deck for the first time for ten days.
+
+_Thursday, January 18th_.--Between breakfast and lunch we sailed over
+the spot where Tarquin Island is marked on the chart, and, between
+lunch and dinner, over a nameless reef, also marked on the chart. A
+good look-out had been kept at the masthead and in the bows, but not a
+trace could be seen of either of these objects in any direction. The
+weather kept clear and bright, and the sea was much calmer.
+
+During the last five days we have covered 1,221 sea miles.
+
+_Monday, January 22nd_.--At daylight Asuncion Island was still
+visible. It is of volcanic origin, and is in the form of a perfect
+sugar-loaf, 2,600 feet high, rising out of the sea, exactly as I had
+expected the Peak of Teneriffe to appear. I should like to have landed
+on the islands Agrigan or Tinian, so as to see the interesting remains
+left by the ancient inhabitants. Some people say that they resemble
+Aztec remains; others, that they are like those of the more modern
+Peruvians. All authorities, however, seem to agree that they are like
+those on Easter Island, the south-east extremity of Polynesia, this
+being the north-west.
+
+[Illustration: Amateur Navigation]
+
+We were close-hauled all day; the wind was strong, and the sea rough
+and disagreeable.
+
+_Tuesday, January 23rd_.--Still close-hauled, and still a heavy swell.
+I felt very ill, and could scarcely move my head for neuralgia. The
+galley boiler burst to-day, so we are now dependent on the one in the
+forecastle. During the night we passed the Euphrosyne rock. It looks
+like a ship in full sail, and abounds with turtle, fish, and
+sea-elephants.
+
+_Wednesday, January 24th_.--Very much colder, though we are only just
+outside the tropics. The wind was rather freer, and we had a beautiful
+moonlight night.
+
+_Friday, January 26th_.--During the night the breeze freshened, and in
+the morning increased to a gale. Steam was therefore let off. It has
+been a miserable day; so cold, wet, and rough, that it was impossible
+to do anything, or to sit anywhere, except on the floor.
+
+About 9 p.m. I was sitting in the deck-house, when I heard a
+tremendous crash, and, looking out, saw that the fore gig davits had
+been carried away, taking with them a piece of the rail, stanchion,
+and cavil. The gig was hanging from the after davits, one might say,
+by a thread, splashing and dashing in and out of the water, and
+crashing and splintering against the side of the yacht. All hands were
+speedily on deck; and in spite of the risk they ran, and of the
+remonstrances of their comrades, two of the gig's crew jumped into her
+with a rope, which they tried to pass round her. It was a difficult
+task in that heavy sea, and many times they failed, and we constantly
+feared that men, boat, and all were gone. Half a dozen of the crew
+caught hold of the rigging outside, put their backs against the yacht,
+and with legs outstretched tried to keep the gig off the ship's side,
+while all the loose gear was floating away out of her. At last there
+was a shout of triumph. The rope was round her, the men jumped on
+board the yacht again, whilst sailors, stewards, and passengers
+proceeded to hoist and drag the boat in, with all their might and
+main. Alas! she was only a wreck. Her sides were stove in, her planks
+were started, there was a hole in her bottom, and the moon shone
+through her many cracks.
+
+_Saturday, January 27th_.--About two o'clock this morning the yacht
+plunged so heavily into a deep sea, that the jibboom, a beautiful
+spar, broke short off, and the foretop-gallant mast and topgallant
+yard were carried away almost at the same moment, with a terrible
+noise. It took about eight hours to clear the wreck, all hands working
+all night; and a very forlorn appearance the deck presented in the
+morning, lumbered up with broken spars, ropes, &c. The jibboom fell
+right across the forefoot of the yacht, and now looks as if it had
+been cut at for weeks with some blunt tool.
+
+The weather cleared a little to-day, but there was still a heavy sea
+and nearly a head wind. The crew were busily engaged in repairing
+damages. Unfortunately, two of them are ill, and so is the carpenter,
+a specially important person at this juncture. No men could have
+behaved better than they all did after the accident. It was frightful
+to see them aloft in such weather, swinging on the ends of the broken
+spars, as the yacht rolled and pitched about. When it comes to a pinch
+they are all good men and true: not that they are perfection, any more
+than other men are.
+
+_Sunday, January 28th_.--It is finer, but bitterly cold. Several of my
+tropical birds are already dead. The little pig from Harpe Island, and
+the Hawaiian geese, look very wretched, in spite of all my
+precautions.
+
+We had the Litany at eleven, and prayer and a sermon at four; after
+which Tom addressed the men, paying them some well-deserved
+compliments on their behaviour on Friday night.
+
+The decks were very slippery, and as we kept rolling about a good deal
+there were some nasty falls among the passengers. We had a splendid
+though stormy sunset, which did not belie its promise, for the wind
+shortly afterwards became stiffer and stronger, until at last we had
+two reefs down, and were tumbling about in all directions, as we
+rushed through the water. The dining-tables tilted till they could go
+no further, and then paused to go back again; but not quickly enough,
+for the glasses began to walk uphill and go over the edge in the most
+extraordinary manner. On deck the night looked brilliant but rather
+terrible. The full moon made it as light as day, and illuminated the
+fountains of spray blown from the waves by which we were surrounded.
+Without her heavy jibboom, and with her canvas well reefed down, the
+'Sunbeam' rode through it all, dipping her head into the sea,
+shivering from stem to stern, and then giving herself a shake,
+preparatory to a fresh start, just like a playful water-bird emerging
+from a prolonged dive.
+
+At midnight a tremendous sea struck her, and for a minute you could
+not see the yacht at all, as she was completely enveloped in spray and
+foam. Tom said it was just like being behind the falls of Niagara,
+with the water coming over you from every quarter at once. It was only
+loose stuff, however, for not a green sea did she take on board the
+whole night through. Our old engineer, who has been with us so long,
+made up his mind that we had struck on a rock, and woke up all the
+servants and told them to go on deck. I never felt anything like it
+before, and the shock sent half of us out of our beds.
+
+_Monday, January 29th_.--At four o'clock I was called to go on deck to
+see the burning mountain. The wind was still blowing hard, but we were
+among the islands, and in comparatively smooth water. The full moon
+still rode high in the heavens, her light being reflected in rainbow
+hues from the spray and foam that drifted along the surface of the
+water. On every side were islands and rocks, among which the sea
+boiled, and seethed, and swirled, while the roaring breakers dashed
+against the higher cliffs, casting great columns of spray into the
+air, and falling back in heavy rollers and surf. Just before us rose
+the island of Vries, with its cone-shaped volcano, 2,600 feet high,
+emitting volumes of smoke and flame. It was overhung by a cloud of
+white vapour, on the under side of which shone the lurid glare of the
+fires of the crater. Sometimes this cloud simply floated over the top
+of the mountain, from which it was quite detached; then there would be
+a fresh eruption; and after a few moments' quiet, great tongues of
+flame would shoot up and pierce through the overhanging cloud to the
+heavens above, while the molten lava rose like a fountain for a short
+distance, and then ran down the sides of the mountain. It was
+wondrously beautiful; and, as a defence against the intense cold, we
+wrapped ourselves in furs, and stayed on deck watching the scene,
+until the sun rose glorious from the sea, and shone upon the
+snow-covered sides of Fujiyama, called by the Japanese 'the matchless
+mountain.' It is an extinct crater, of the most perfect form, rising
+abruptly from a chain of very low mountains, so that it stands in
+unrivalled magnificence. This morning covered with the fresh-fallen
+snow, there was not a spot nor a fleck to be seen upon it, from top to
+bottom. It is said to be the youngest mountain in the world, the
+enormous mass having been thrown up in the course of a few days only
+862 years B.C.
+
+We reached the entrance to the Gulf of Yeddo about nine o'clock, and
+passed between its shores through hundreds of junks and fishing boats.
+I never saw anything like it before. The water was simply covered with
+them; and at a distance it looked as though it would be impossible to
+force a passage. As it was, we could not proceed very fast, so
+constantly were the orders to 'slow,' 'stop,' 'port,' 'starboard,'
+given; and I began at last to fear that it would be impossible to
+reach Yokohama without running down at least one boat.
+
+The shores of the gulf, on each side, consist of sharp-cut little
+hills, covered with pines and cryptomerias, and dotted with temples
+and villages. Every detail of the scene exactly resembled the
+Japanese pictures one is accustomed to see in England; and it was easy
+to imagine that we were only gazing upon a slowly moving panorama,
+unrolling itself before us.
+
+It was twelve o'clock before we found ourselves among the men-of-war
+and steamers lying near the port of Yokohama, and two o'clock before
+the anchor could be dropped.
+
+[Illustration: Little Redcap.]
+
+During this interval we were surrounded by a swarm of boats, the
+occupants of which clamoured vociferously to be allowed on board, and
+in many cases they succeeded in evading the vigilance of the man at
+the gangway, by going round the other side and climbing over the rail.
+A second man was put on guard; but it was of no use, for we were
+invaded from all directions at once. We had a good many visitors also
+from the men-of-war, Japanese and English, and from the reporters of
+newspapers, full of curiosity, questions, and astonishment.
+
+Having at last managed to get some lunch, Tom went to bed to rest,
+after his two hard nights' work, and the rest of us went on shore.
+Directly we landed at the jetty we were rushed at by a crowd of
+_jinrikisha_ men, each drawing a little vehicle not unlike a Hansom
+cab, without the seat for the driver--there being no horse to drive.
+The man runs between the shafts, and is often preceded by a leader,
+harnessed on in front, tandem fashion. Each of these vehicles holds
+one person, and they go along at a tremendous pace.
+
+We went first to the Consul's, where we got a few letters, and then to
+the Post Office, where many more awaited us. We had then to go to
+various places to order stores, fresh provisions, coals, and water,
+all of which were urgently needed on board, and to give directions for
+the repair of boats, spars, &c., with as little delay as possible. All
+this business, including the inevitable search for a good laundress,
+lay in the European quarter of the town, the appearance of which was
+not remarkable. But the people we met in the streets were a study in
+themselves. The children said they looked 'like fans walking about;'
+and it was not difficult to understand their meaning. The dress of the
+lower orders has remained precisely the same for hundreds of years;
+and before I had been ashore five minutes I realised more fully than I
+had ever done before the truthfulness of the representations of native
+artists, with which the fans, screens, and vases one sees in England
+are ornamented.
+
+While we were going about, a letter was brought me, containing the sad
+news (received here by telegram) of the death of Tom's mother. It was
+a terrible shock, coming, too, just as we were rejoicing in the good
+accounts from home which our letters contained. I went on board at
+once to break the bad news to Tom. This sad intelligence realised a
+certain vague dread of something, we knew not what, which has seemed
+to haunt us both on our way hither.
+
+[Illustration: Japanese Boats.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+YOKOHAMA.
+
+    _Heavily plunged the breaking wave,_
+    _And foam flew up the lea,_
+    _Morning and evening the drifted snow_
+    _Fell into the dark grey sea._
+
+
+_Tuesday, January 30th_.--When we awoke from our slumbers this
+morning, it was very cold and dark, and we heard noises of a strange
+kind. On going on deck to ascertain the cause of this state of things,
+we discovered that the sky-lights and portholes were all covered and
+blocked up with snow, and that the water froze as it came out of the
+hose, forming a sheet of ice on the deck. Masses of snow and ice were
+falling from the rigging, and everything betokened that our welcome to
+Japan would not be a warm one.
+
+[Illustration: Fujiyama, Japan]
+
+After breakfast we had many visitors, and received letters from Sir
+Harry and Lady Parkes, inviting us to go up to Yeddo to-morrow for a
+long day, to settle our future plans.
+
+Having landed, we went with the Consul to the native town, to see the
+curio shops, which are a speciality of the place. The inhabitants are
+wonderfully clever at making all sorts of curiosities, and the
+manufactories of so-called 'antique bronzes' and 'old china' are two
+of the most wonderful sights in Yokohama. The way in which they
+scrape, crack, chip, mend, and colour the various articles, cover them
+with dust, partially clean them, and imitate the marks and signatures
+of celebrated makers, is more creditable to their ingenuity than to
+their honesty. Still, there are a good many genuine old relics from
+the temples, and from the large houses of the reduced Daimios, to be
+picked up, if you go the right way to work, though the supply is
+limited. Dealers are plentiful, and travellers, especially from
+America, are increasing in numbers. When we first made acquaintance
+with the shops we thought they seemed full of beautiful things, but
+even one day's shopping, in the company of experienced people, has
+educated our taste and taught us a great deal; though we have still
+much to learn. There are very respectable-looking lacquer cabinets
+ranging in price from 5_s_. to 20_l_. But they are only made for the
+foreign market. No such things exist in a Japanese home. A really good
+bit of old lacquer (the best is generally made into the form of a
+small box, a portable medicine-chest, or a chow-chow box) is worth
+from 20_l_. to 200_l_. We saw one box, about three inches square,
+which was valued at 45_l_.; and a collection of really good lacquer
+would be costly and difficult to procure even here. The best specimens
+I have ever seen are at Lady Alcock's; but they are all either royal
+or princely presents, not to be bought with money. The tests of good
+lacquer are its exquisite finish, its satiny, oily feel, and the
+impossibility of making any impression on it with your thumb-nail. It
+is practically indestructible, and will wear for ever. All the poor as
+well as the rich people here use it, and have used it for centuries,
+instead of china and glass, for cups, saucers, dishes, bowls, which
+would need to be often washed in the hottest of water. It is said that
+the modern Japanese have lost the art of lacquer making; and as an
+illustration I was told that many beautiful articles of lacquer, old
+and new, had been sent from this country to the Vienna Exhibition in
+1873, but the price put on them was so exorbitant that few were sold,
+and nearly all had to be sent back to Japan. Just as the ship with
+these things on board reached the Gulf of Yeddo, she struck on a rock
+and sank in shallow water. A month or two ago a successful attempt was
+made to raise her, and to recover the cargo, when it was found that
+the new lacquer had been reduced to a state of pulp, while the old was
+not in the least damaged. I tell you the tale as it was told to me.
+
+After a long day's shopping, we went to dine, in real Japanese
+fashion, at a Japanese tea-house. The establishment was kept by a very
+pleasant woman, who received us at the door, and who herself removed
+our exceedingly dirty boots before allowing us to step on to her clean
+mats. This was all very well, as far as it went; but she might as well
+have supplied us with some substitute for the objectionable articles,
+for it was a bitterly cold night, and the highly polished wood
+passages and steep staircase felt very cold to our shoeless feet. The
+apartment we were shown into was so exact a type of a room in any
+Japanese house, that I may as well describe it once for all. The
+woodwork of the roof and the framework of the screens were all made of
+a handsome dark polished wood, not unlike walnut. The exterior walls
+under the verandah, as well as the partitions between the other rooms,
+were simply wooden lattice-work screens, covered with white paper, and
+sliding in grooves; so that you could walk in or out at any part of
+the wall you chose, and it was, in like manner, impossible to say
+whence the next comer would make his appearance. Doors and windows
+are, by this arrangement, rendered unnecessary, and do not exist. You
+open a little bit of your wall if you want to look out, and a bigger
+bit if you want to step out. The floor was covered with several
+thicknesses of very fine mats, each about six feet long by three
+broad, deliciously soft to walk upon. All mats in Japan are of the
+same size, and everything connected with house-building is measured by
+this standard. Once you have prepared your foundations and woodwork of
+the dimensions of so many mats, it is the easiest thing in the world
+to go to a shop and buy a house, ready made, which you can then set up
+and furnish in the scanty Japanese fashion in a couple of days.
+
+On one side of the room was a slightly raised dais, about four inches
+from the floor. This was the seat of honour. On it had been placed a
+stool, a little bronze ornament, and a china vase, with a branch of
+cherry-blossom and a few flag-leaves gracefully arranged. On the wall
+behind hung pictures, which are changed every month, according to the
+season of the year. There was no other furniture of any sort in the
+room. Four nice-looking Japanese girls brought us thick cotton quilts
+to sit upon, and braziers full of burning charcoal, to warm ourselves
+by. In the centre of the group another brazier was placed, protected
+by a square wooden grating, and over the whole they laid a large silk
+eider-down quilt, to retain the heat. This is the way in which all the
+rooms, even bedrooms, are warmed in Japan, and the result is that
+fires are of very frequent occurrence. The brazier is kicked over by
+some restless or careless person, and in a moment the whole place is
+in a blaze.
+
+Presently the eider down and brazier were removed, and our dinner was
+brought in. A little lacquer table, about six inches high, on which
+were arranged a pair of chop-sticks, a basin of soup, a bowl for
+rice, a _saki_ cup, and a basin of hot water, was placed before each
+person, whilst the four Japanese maidens sat in our midst, with fires
+to keep the _saki_ hot, and to light the tiny pipes with which they
+were provided, and from which they wished us to take a whiff after
+each dish. _Saki_ is a sort of spirit, distilled from rice, always
+drunk hot, out of small cups. In this state it is not disagreeable,
+but we found it exceedingly nasty when cold.
+
+Everything was well cooked and served, though the ingredients of some
+of the dishes, as will be seen from the following bill of fare, were
+rather strange to our ideas. Still they were all eatable, and most of
+them really palatable.
+
+_Soup_.
+
+_Shrimps and Seaweed_.
+
+_Prawns, Egg Omelette, and Preserved Grapes_.
+
+_Fried Fish, Spinach, Young Rushes, and Young Ginger_.
+
+_Raw Fish, Mustard and Cress, Horseradish, and Soy_.
+
+_Thick Soup, of Eggs, Fish, Mushrooms, and Spinach; Grilled Fish_.
+
+_Fried Chicken, and Bamboo Shoots_.
+
+_Turnip Tops and Root Pickled_.
+
+_Rice ad libitum in a large bowl_.
+
+_Hot Saki, Pipes and Tea_.
+
+The meal concluded with an enormous lacquer box of rice, from which
+all our bowls were filled, the rice being thence conveyed to our
+mouths by means of chop-sticks. We managed very well with these
+substitutes for spoons and forks, the knack of using which, to a
+certain extent, is soon acquired. The long intervals between the
+dishes were beguiled with songs, music, and dancing, performed by
+professional singing and dancing girls. The music was somewhat harsh
+and monotonous; but the songs sounded harmonious, and the dancing was
+graceful, though it was rather posturing than dancing, great use being
+made of the fan and the long trailing skirts. The girls, who were
+pretty, wore peculiar dresses to indicate their calling, and seemed of
+an entirely different stamp from the quiet, simply dressed waitresses
+whom we found so attentive to our wants. Still they all looked cheery,
+light-hearted, simple creatures, and appeared to enjoy immensely the
+little childish games they played amongst themselves between whiles.
+
+After dinner we had some real Japanese tea, tasting exactly like a
+little hot water poured on very fragrant new-mown hay. Then, after a
+brief visit to the kitchen, which, though small, was beautifully
+clean, we received our boots, and were bowed out by our pleasant
+hostess and her attentive handmaidens.
+
+On our return we had considerable difficulty in procuring a boat, our
+own boats being all ashore under repair. It was a beautiful moonlight
+night, but bitterly cold. The harbour being so full of shipping, our
+boatmen were at first puzzled how to find the yacht, till we pointed
+to the lights in the deck-house--always a good beacon at night in a
+crowded harbour.
+
+_Wednesday, January 31st_. We left the yacht soon after eight o'clock,
+and started by the 9.34 a.m. train for the city formerly called Yeddo,
+but latterly, since the Mikado has resided there, Tokio, or eastern
+capital of Japan. The ground was covered with snow, and there were
+several degrees of frost, but the sun felt hot, and all the people
+were sunning themselves in the doorways or wide verandahs of their
+houses.
+
+Yokohama has been so completely Europeanised, that it was not until we
+had left it that we caught our first glimpse of Japanese life; and the
+whole landscape and the many villages looked very like a set of living
+fans or tea-trays, though somehow the snow did not seem to harmonise
+with it.
+
+We crossed several rivers, and reached Tokio in about an hour, when we
+at once emerged into the midst of a clattering, chattering crowd,
+amongst whom there did not seem to be a single European. The
+reverberation, under the glass roof of the station, of the hundreds of
+pairs of wooden clogs, pattering along, was something extraordinary.
+Giving up our tickets, and following the stream, we found ourselves
+surrounded by a still more animated scene, outside the station. We
+were just deliberating what to do next, when a smart little Japanese,
+with a mail-bag over his shoulder, stepped forward and said something
+about Sir Harry Parkes. He then popped us all into several double and
+treble-manned _jinrikishas_, and started off himself ahead at a
+tremendous pace, shouting and clearing the way for us.
+
+Tokio is a genuinely Japanese town. Not a single foreigner resides
+within its limits, with the exception of the foreign Ministers. There
+is no hotel nor any place of the kind to stay at; so that, unless you
+have friends at any of the Legations, you must return to Yokohama the
+same day, which makes a visit rather a fatiguing affair.[16]
+
+[Footnote 16: I have since heard that there are two hotels at Tokio,
+such as they are.]
+
+Our first halting-place was at the Temple of Shiba, not far from the
+station, where most of the Tycoons have been buried. It is a large
+enclosure, many acres in extent, in the centre of the city, with walls
+overgrown with creepers, and shadowed by evergreen trees, amid whose
+branches rooks caw, ravens croak, and pigeons coo, as undisturbedly as
+if in the midst of the deepest woodland solitude. I had no idea there
+was anything so beautiful in Japanese architecture as this temple. The
+primary idea in the architecture of Japan is evidently that of a tent
+among trees. The lines of the high, overhanging, richly decorated
+roofs, with pointed gable ends, are not straight, but delicately
+curved, like the suspended cloth of a tent. In the same way, the
+pillars have neither capital nor base, but seem to run through the
+building perpendicularly, without beginning or end. The principal
+temple was burnt down a few years ago; but there are many smaller ones
+remaining, built in exactly the same style, and all the tombs are
+perfect. Some people say the bodies are enclosed in coffins, filled
+with vermilion, but I need hardly say we had no opportunity of
+ascertaining the correctness of this statement. We entered several of
+the temples, which are perfect marvels of carving, gilding, painting,
+and lacquer work. Their style of decoration may be somewhat barbaric;
+but what a study they would form for an artist! Outside, where no
+colour is used, the overhanging roofs and the walls are carved with a
+depth and boldness, and yet a delicacy, I have seldom seen equalled;
+the doors and railings being of massive bronze, brought from the
+Corea. Within, a dim religious light illumines and harmonises a
+dazzling mass of lacquer, gold, and painting. It is the grandest
+burial-place imaginable; too good for the long line of men who have
+tyrannised over Japan and its lawful sovereigns for so many centuries
+past.
+
+The streets of Tokio were crowded with a motley throng up to the very
+gates of the citadel, where, within the first moat, stand all the
+_yashgis_, or residences of the Daimios. Each _yashgi_ is surrounded
+by a blank wall, loopholed, and with a tower at each of the four
+corners. Within this outer wall is the court of the retainers, all of
+them 'two-sworded' men; then comes a second wall, also loopholed,
+inside which dwell distant relations of the Daimio; and then again a
+third enclosure, guarding the Daimio himself, with his immediate
+belongings. After crossing the third moat we reached the Mikado's
+gardens and palace, the public offices, and the residences of the
+foreign Ministers, all of which were formerly occupied by the Tycoon,
+or Shogun, and his ministers. On the waters of the inner moat were
+thousands of wild ducks and geese. Nobody is allowed to harm them, and
+the birds seem to be perfectly aware of this fact, for they disport
+themselves with the greatest confidence.
+
+The English Embassy is a nice red brick house, built in the centre of
+a garden, so as to be as secure as possible from fire or attack. After
+a most pleasant luncheon we looked over the nucleus of a second
+collection which Lady Parkes is beginning to form. Her former
+beautiful collection was burnt a few years ago, a most disheartening
+misfortune, especially as the opportunities for obtaining really old
+and good things in Japan are diminishing day by day.
+
+A little later we started in great force, some in carriages and some
+on horseback, attended by running grooms, to see something more of the
+city. These men think nothing of running by the side of a horse and
+carriage some forty miles a day. They form a distinct class, and when
+working on their own account wear little clothing. When in the service
+of private individuals they are dressed in tight-fitting dark-blue
+garments, with short capes, fastened to their arms, and large hats.
+
+Just outside the Embassy we passed two of the finest of the still
+existing _yashgis_, the larger one being used as the Home Office, the
+other as the Foreign Office.
+
+There is always a festival going on in some part of Tokio. To-day
+there had been a great wrestling-match, and we met all the people
+coming away. Such crowds of _jinrikiskas_, full of gaily dressed and
+painted women and children, with their hair plastered into all sorts
+of inconceivable shapes, and decorated with artificial flowers and
+glittering pins! We met six of the wrestlers themselves, riding in
+_jinrikishas_--big men, prodigiously fat, and not at all, according to
+our ideas, in fighting or wrestling condition. One of their
+_jinrikisha_ men stumbled and fell, just as they passed us, and the
+wrestler shot out, head over heels, and lay, a helpless ball of fat,
+in the middle of the road, till somebody came and picked him up. He
+was not in the least hurt, and, as soon as he was set on his feet
+again, began to belabour the poor _jinrikisha_ man most unmercifully.
+After a long and delightful drive we arrived at the station just in
+time to catch the train.
+
+The return journey to Yokohama, in the omnibus-like railway carriages,
+was very cold, and the _jinrikisha_ drive to the Grand Hotel colder
+still; but a roaring fire and a capital dinner soon warmed and
+comforted us.
+
+After dinner we looked over a fine collection of photographs of
+Japanese scenery and costumes, and then returned to the yacht in the
+house-boat belonging to the hotel, which was prettily decorated with
+bright-coloured lanterns, and which afforded welcome shelter from the
+biting wind.
+
+_Thursday, February 1st_.--Careful arrangements have been made for our
+excursion to the Island of Inoshima, to see the great figure of
+Daibutz. By eight o'clock we had landed, and packed ourselves into a
+funny little shaky carriage, drawn by four horses. We drove quickly
+through the town, past the station, along the Tokaido, or imperial
+road, running from one end of the Island of Niphon to the other, and
+on which so many foreigners have been murdered even within the last
+ten years. Now, however, it is perfectly safe. The houses are one
+story high, and their walls are made of the screens I have already
+described. These screens were all thrown back, to admit the morning
+air, cold as it was. We could consequently see all that was going on
+within, in the sitting-room in front, and even in the bedrooms and
+kitchen. At the back of the house there was invariably a little garden
+to be seen, with a miniature rockery, a tree, and a lake; possibly
+also a bridge and a temple. Even in the gardens of the poorest houses
+an attempt at something of the sort had been made. The domestic
+occupations of the inhabitants being conducted in this public manner,
+a very good idea might be obtained, even at the end of a few miles'
+drive, of how the lower class of Japanese wash and dress themselves
+and their children, how very elaborate the process of hair-dressing
+is, to say nothing of a bird's-eye view of the ground-plan of the
+houses, the method of cooking food, &c.
+
+As we emerged into the open country the landscape became very pretty,
+and the numerous villages, nestling in the valleys at the foot of the
+various small hills, had a most picturesque appearance. At a
+stone-quarry that we passed, on the side of a mountain, there were
+about seventy men at work, without any clothing, though the
+thermometer was far below freezing point. The Japanese are a sensitive
+nation, and finding that foreigners were astonished and shocked at the
+habits of the people, in going about without clothes, and in bathing
+in public and at their house doors, they passed a law prohibiting
+these customs in towns. In the country, however, the more primitive
+customs are still in force, and every dwelling has its half-open
+bath-house, whilst the people do as they like in the matter of
+clothing.
+
+After stopping twice on the road, to drink the inevitable tea, we
+changed from our carriage to _jinrikishas_, each drawn and pushed by
+four strong men, bowling along at a merry pace. The sun was very warm
+in the sheltered valleys, and the abundance of evergreens of all kinds
+quite deluded one into the belief that it was summer time, especially
+as camellias grew like forest trees, covered with red and white bloom,
+amidst a dense tangle of bamboos and half-hardy palms. There were many
+strange things upside down to be seen on efther hand--horses and cows
+with bells on their tails instead of on their necks, the quadrupeds
+well clothed, their masters without a scrap of covering, tailors
+sewing from them instead of to them, a carpenter reversing the action
+of his saw and plane. It looked just as if they had originally learned
+the various processes in 'Alice's Looking-glass World' in some former
+stage of their existence.
+
+We had not long left the town before our men began to undress each
+other; for their clothes were so tight that it required no
+inconsiderable effort to remove them. Some of them were beautifully
+tattooed. My wheeler had the root of a tree depicted on one foot, from
+which sprang the trunk and branches, spreading gradually, until on his
+back and chest they bore fruit and flowers, amongst which birds were
+perched. On his other leg was a large stork, supposed, I imagine, to
+be standing under the shadow of the same tree. Another man had human
+figures tattooed all over him, in various attitudes.
+
+[Illustration: A Drag across the Sand in a Jinrikisha.]
+
+In less than an hour we reached the narrow strip of land which at low
+water connects the island or peninsula of Inoshima with the mainland.
+This isthmus was covered with natives gathering shells and seaweed,
+casting their nets, and pushing off or dragging up their boats; whilst
+an island rose fresh and green from the sea, with a background of
+snowy mountains, stretching across the bay, above which Fujiyama
+towered grandly. This name signifies 'not two, but one mountain,' the
+Japanese thinking it impossible that there can be another like it in
+the world. The lovely little island is called Inoshima, and is conical
+in shape and covered with evergreens and Buddhist temples, with a few
+small fishing villages scattered on its shores. We walked right across
+it in about an hour; so you may imagine it is not very large. The sea
+teems with curiously shaped fish and beautiful shells. The staple food
+of the inhabitants seems to be those lovely 'Venus's ears,' [17] as
+they are called--a flattish univalve, about as big as your hand, with
+a row of holes along the edge, and a lining of brilliant black
+mother-of-pearl. These were lying about in heaps mixed with white
+mother-of-pearl shells, as big as your two fists, and shaped like a
+snail-shell.
+
+[Footnote 17: Haliotis.]
+
+[Illustration: Inoshima by a Japanese Artist.]
+
+Our _jinrikisha_ men deposited us at the bottom of the main street of
+the principal village, to enter which we passed through a simple
+square arch of a temple. The street was steep and dirty, and consisted
+principally of shell-fish and seaweed shops.
+
+An old priest took us in hand, and, providing us with stout sticks,
+marched us up to the top of the hill to see various temples, and
+splendid views in many directions. The camellias and evergreens on the
+hillside made a lovely framework for each little picture, as we turned
+and twisted along the narrow path. I know not how many steps on the
+other side of the island had to be descended before the sea-beach was
+reached. Here is a cavern stretching 500 feet straight below
+high-water mark, with a shrine to Benton Sama, the Lucina of Japan;
+and having been provided with candles, we proceeded a few hundred feet
+through another cave, running at right angles to the first.
+
+As it would have been a long steep walk back, and I was very tired, we
+called to one of the numerous fishing boats near the shore, and were
+quickly conveyed round to our original starting place. Before we said
+good-bye, one of the old priests implored to be allowed to dive into
+the water for half-a-dollar. His request was complied with, and he
+caught the coin most successfully.
+
+[Illustration: A Boatman]
+
+We lunched at a tea-house, our meal consisting of fish of all kinds,
+deliciously cooked, and served, fresh from the fire, in a style worthy
+of Greenwich; and as we had taken the precaution to bring some bread
+and wine with us, we were independent of the usual rice and _saki_.
+
+[Illustration: Our Luncheon Bill.]
+
+After this we proceeded on our way towards the Daibutz, or Great
+Buddha, situated within the limits of what was once the large city of
+Kama-kura, now only a collection of small hamlets. As all Japanese
+cities are built of wood, it is not wonderful that they should in time
+entirely disappear, and leave no trace behind them. But there still
+remain some of the columns of the temple which once existed in the
+gardens surrounding the idol. Now he is quite alone; and for centuries
+has this grand old figure sat, exposed to the elements, serenely
+smiling on the varying scene beneath him. The figure is of bronze, and
+is supposed to have been cast about the year 1250 or 1260.
+
+It is some 50 ft. high, with golden eyes and a silver spiral horn on
+the forehead. It is possible to sit or stand on the thumb, and within
+the hollow body an altar is erected, at which the priests officiate.
+Sitting there, amidst a grove of enormous cryptomerias and bamboos,
+there is an air of ineffable silent strength about that solitary
+figure, which affords a clue to the tenacity with which the poorer
+classes cling to Buddhism. The very calmness of these figures must be
+more suggestive of relief and repose to the poor weary worshippers
+than the glitter of the looking-glass and crystal ball to be found in
+the Shintoo temples. The looking-glass is intended to remind believers
+that the Supreme Being can see their innermost thoughts as clearly as
+they can perceive their own reflection; while the crystal ball is an
+emblem of purity. Great store is set by the latter, especially if of
+large size and without flaw; but to my mind the imperfect ones are the
+best, as they refract the light and do not look so much like glass.
+
+In another village close by--also part of the ancient Kama-kura--there
+is a fine temple, dedicated to the God of War; but we were pressed
+for time, and hurried back to the little carriages. The homeward drive
+was long and cold; but the Tokaido looked very pretty lighted up,
+the shadows of the inmates being plainly visible on the paper
+walls, reminding one of a scene in a pantomime. On our way down a
+very steep hill we met the men carrying a _cango_. It is a most
+uncomfortable-looking basket-work contrivance, in which it is
+impossible to sit or lie with ease. These _cangoes_ used formerly to
+be the ordinary conveyance of Japan, but they are now replaced by the
+_jinrikishas_, and they are seldom met with, except in the mountains
+or in out-of-the-way places.
+
+_Friday, February 2nd_.--I was called at five o'clock, and at
+half-past six Mabelle and I started for the market. It was blowing a
+gale, and our four oarsmen found it as much as they could do to reach
+the shore. The Shanghai mail-boat was just in, and I pitied the poor
+passengers, who were in all the misery of being turned out into the
+cold of the early morning, with the spray breaking over them as they
+sat in the small boats.
+
+The market at Yokohama is one of the sights of the place. There were
+large quantities of birds and game of all kinds--pheasants with tails
+six feet long, of a rare copper-coloured variety, ducks, pigeons,
+small birds, hares, deer, rabbits. The fish-market was well supplied,
+especially with cuttle-fish. They are not inviting-looking, but are
+considered a delicacy here. A real octopus, in a basket, with its
+hideous body in the centre, and its eight arms, covered with suckers,
+arranged in the form of a star, is worth from a dollar to a dollar and
+a half, according to its size. I was not tempted, however, to make any
+purchases.
+
+From the market we went to one or two small shops in back streets, and
+thence over the bluffs, in the teeth of a bitterly cold wind, to a
+nursery garden, to examine the results of the Japanese art of dwarfing
+and distorting trees. Some of the specimens were very curious and some
+beautiful, but most were simply hideous. We saw tiny old gnarled
+fruit-trees, covered with blossom, and Scotch firs and other forest
+trees, eight inches high, besides diminutive ferns and creepers.
+
+It being now half-past nine o'clock, we went to the hotel to meet the
+rest of the party for breakfast, and at one o'clock we returned to the
+yacht. At half-past one Lady Parkes and several other friends from
+Tokio came on board to luncheon. They told of three disastrous fires
+that had taken place in Tokio yesterday, by which the Home Office--one
+of the finest old Tartar _yashgis_--and several smaller edifices had
+been destroyed.
+
+After the departure of our guests we paid another visit to the shore,
+and saw the foxhounds. They are a nice pack, and have good kennels
+outside the foreign settlement. They were out this morning at 6.30,
+but unfortunately we did not know of it. There are plenty of foxes,
+and some very fair country not far from here; so they expect to have
+good sport.
+
+We weighed anchor at 8.30 p.m. and proceeded under steam. At 11.30,
+when off Touraya-saki, we set some of the head canvas. It was a cold
+night, with sleet and snow, though it was not blowing as hard as
+during the day.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+KIOTO, LATE MIACO.
+
+    _Manners with fortunes, humours change with climes,_
+    _Tenets with books, and principles with times._
+
+
+_Saturday, February 3rd_.--The occasional glimpses of the coast
+scenery through the sleet and snow were very fine. We passed Rocky
+Island, Lady Inglis rocks, and Matoya. But Mabelle and I spent most of
+the day in bed; she suffering from a blow from the boom, which had
+produced slight concussion of the brain, and I having a wretched cold,
+which has been gradually getting worse the last few days, and which
+has quite taken away my voice.
+
+_Sunday, February 4th_.--It was blowing hard all day, raining,
+snowing, and sleeting. The scenery appeared to be pretty, and we
+passed through crowds of picturesque junks.
+
+At 4.25 we rounded Tomamgai Smia, and at 9 p.m. anchored off the town
+of Kobe, or Hiogo.
+
+These constant changes of names are very puzzling. Miaco and Yeddo,
+which we did know something about, are quite cut out, and replaced by
+Kioto and Tokio. Oddly enough, the same syllables, reversed, mean
+capital of the Western Empire and capital of the Eastern Empire
+respectively.
+
+_Monday, February 5th_.--By seven o'clock a boat was alongside with
+letters from the Consul and Sir Harry Parkes, who had kindly made all
+the necessary arrangements for us to see the opening of the railway
+from Kobe to Kioto, and for the presentation of the gentlemen to the
+Mikado.
+
+It certainly was a great opportunity for seeing a Japanese holiday
+crowd, all dressed in their best. Thousands and thousands of people
+were in the streets, who, though naturally anxious to see as much as
+possible, behaved in the most quiet and orderly manner. The station
+was beautifully decorated with evergreens, camellias, and red berries.
+Outside there was a most marvellous pavilion, the woodwork of which
+had been entirely covered with evergreens, and ornamented with
+life-size dragons and phoenixes (the imperial insignia of Japan), all
+made in flowers. The roof was studded with large chrysanthemums--the
+private device of the Mikado, that of the Tycoon being three hollyhock
+leaves. The sides of the pavilion were quite open, the roof being
+simply supported on pillars; so that we could see everything that went
+on, both inside and out. The floor was covered with red cloth; the
+dais with an extremely ugly Brussels carpet, with a large pattern. On
+this the Mikado's throne was placed, with a second canopy above it.
+Tom in R.N.R. uniform, the other gentlemen in evening dress,
+accompanied the Consul on to the platform to receive the Mikado; while
+the children and I went with Mrs. Annesley to seats reserved for the
+foreign representatives. There were not many Europeans present; but
+the platform was densely crowded with Japanese, sitting on their
+heels, and patiently waiting to see the extraordinary sight of their
+hitherto invisible spiritual Emperor brought to them by a steam engine
+on an iron road. The men had all had their heads fresh shaven, and
+their funny little pigtails rearranged for the occasion. The women's
+hair was elaborately and stiffly done up with light tortoiseshell
+combs and a large pin, and decorated with artificial flowers. Some of
+the children were gaily dressed in red and gold under garments, the
+prevailing colour of the costumes being dark blue, turned up with red.
+They also wore gay embroidered _obis_, or large sashes, which are put
+on in a peculiar fashion. They are of great width, and are fastened
+tightly round the waist, while an enormous bow behind reaches from
+between the shoulders to far below the hips. The garments fit tightly
+in front, while at the back they form a sort of huge bunch. On their
+high-heeled clogs the women walk with precisely the same gait as
+ladies in high-heeled boots. In fact, so exactly do the Japanese women
+(you never see Japanese _ladies_ walking about in the streets)
+caricature the present fashionable style of dress in Europe, that I
+have formed a theory of my own on the subject, and this is it.
+
+Some three or four years ago, among other proposed reforms in Japan,
+the Ministers wished the Empress and her Court to be dressed in
+European fashion. Accordingly a French milliner and dressmaker, with
+her assistants, was sent for from Paris, and in due time arrived. The
+Empress and her ladies, however, would not change their style of
+dress. They knew better what suited them, and in my opinion they were
+very sensible. This is what I hear. Now what I think is, that the
+Parisienne, being of an enterprising turn of mind, thought that she
+would not take so long a journey for nothing--that if the Japanese
+ladies would not follow European fashions, at least European ladies
+should adopt the Japanese style. On her return to Paris I am convinced
+that she promulgated this idea, and gradually gave it effect. Hence
+the fashions of the last two years.
+
+Watching the crowd occupied the time in a most interesting manner,
+till the firing of guns and the playing of bands announced the arrival
+of the imperial train. The Mikado was received on the platform, and
+after a very short delay he headed the procession along the covered
+way on to the dais.
+
+He is a young, not very good-looking man, with rather a sullen
+expression, and legs that look as though they did not belong to
+him--I suppose from using them so little, and sitting so much on his
+heels; for until the last few years the Mikado has always been
+considered far too sacred a being to be allowed to set foot on the
+earth. He was followed by his highest Minister, the foreign Ministers,
+and a crowd of Japanese dignitaries, all, with one or two exceptions,
+in European official dress, glittering with gold lace. I believe it
+was the first time that many of them had ever worn it. At any rate,
+they certainly had never learned to put it on properly. It would have
+driven to distraction the tailor who made them, to see tight-fitting
+uniforms either left unbuttoned altogether, or hooked askew from top
+to bottom, and to behold the trousers turned up and disfigured by the
+projecting tags of immense side-spring boots, generally put on the
+wrong feet. Some of the visitors had no gloves, while others wore them
+with fingers at least three inches too long. Certainly a court dresser
+as well as a court tailor ought to be appointed to the Mikado's
+establishment, before the European costume becomes generally adopted.
+
+I could not help thinking that the two or three old conservative
+Ministers who had stuck to their native dress must have congratulated
+themselves on their firmness, when they saw the effect of the
+unaccustomed garments upon their _confreres_. The old court dress of
+the Daimios is very handsome, consisting of rich silks and brocades,
+with enormously long loose trousers trailing two or three feet on the
+ground, and with sleeves, like butterfly wings, of corresponding
+dimensions. A small high-peaked black cap is worn on the head, to
+accommodate the curious little cut-off pigtail, set up like a cock's
+comb, which appears to be one of the insignia of a Daimio's rank in
+Japan.
+
+As soon as the people had arranged themselves into three sides of a
+square, Sir Harry Parkes read an address, and presented his five
+compatriots to the Mikado, who replied in inaudible but no doubt
+suitable terms. Then the Governor of Kobe had to read an address, and
+I pitied the poor man from the bottom of my heart. His knees shook,
+his hands trembled, and his whole body vibrated to such an extent,
+that his cocked hat fell and rolled on the floor of the dais, and
+finally hopped down the steps, while the address nearly followed its
+example. How thankful he must have felt when it was over!
+
+The proceedings in the pavilion being now at an end, the Mikado walked
+down the middle of the assembly, followed by all his Ministers in
+single file, on his way to the luncheon tent. After they had gone, we
+inspected the imperial railway carriage, the soldiers, guns, &c., and
+just as we were leaving the station yard, to look at the daylight
+fireworks they were letting off in honour of the occasion, a salute
+announced the departure of the Mikado for Kioto.
+
+We lunched at the Consulate, our gentlemen changed to more comfortable
+attire, and then we went to see a Buddhist temple, supposed to be
+rather a fine specimen of woodwork. It is specially curious on account
+of some monkeys and a white horse, each kept in a sort of side shrine.
+Every worshipper at the temple stopped before these shrines, and for a
+small coin bought rice or beans to feed them with, through the priest.
+Whether it was an act of worship, or simply of kindness, I could not
+discover, though I paid several visits to the spot during our stay at
+Kobe.
+
+From the temple we went to the shops in the main street of Hiogo, and
+full of interest and temptation we found them. The town itself is
+quite Japanese, and consists, as usual, of wooden houses, narrow
+streets, and quaint shops. To-day all was _en fete_, in preparation
+for the illuminations to-night.
+
+Kobe, the foreign settlement, is, on the contrary, bran-new, spick and
+span, with a handsome parade, and grass and trees, planted boulevard
+fashion, along the edge of the sea. It is all remarkably clean, but
+quite uninteresting. To-night, however, it looked very well,
+illuminated by thousands and thousands of coloured paper lanterns,
+arranged in all sorts of fanciful devices. It was dark and clear, and
+there was no wind, so that everything went off well.
+
+[Illustration: a family group]
+
+_Tuesday, February 6th_.--My cold being still bad, Mabelle by no means
+well yet, and Tom very busy, we at first thought of keeping quiet
+to-day. But our time is so short, that we could not afford to waste
+it; so half our party started early for Kioto, it being arranged that
+Tom and Mabelle should follow us by an early train to-morrow. It was a
+wet cheerless day, and the country did not look its best. Still, the
+novelty of the scenes around could not fail to make them interesting.
+The Japanese have an intense horror of rain, and it was ludicrous to
+see the peasants walking along with scarcely any clothes on except a
+pair of high clogs, a large hat, and a paper umbrella. We crossed
+several large bridges, stopped at a great many stations, where heaps
+of native travellers got in and out, and finally reached Kioto at
+half-past two o'clock. It was still raining, and all the _jinrikisha_
+men wore their large rain hats and rain cloaks, made either of reeds
+or of oiled paper. Most of the _jinrikishas_, too, had oiled paper
+hoods and aprons.
+
+The drive to our hotel, through long, narrow, crowded, picturesque
+streets, seemed long and wearisome. It was still a holiday, and
+remains of the previous night's illuminations were to be seen on all
+sides. The large paper lanterns still remained fastened to the high
+poles, with an open umbrella at the top to afford protection from the
+rain.
+
+Kioto is a thoroughly Japanese town. I do not suppose it contains a
+single European resident; so that the manners and customs of the
+natives may be seen in perfection. Its theatres and jugglers are
+famous throughout Japan. In the suburb, where the two hotels are
+situated, stand numberless tea-houses and other places of
+entertainment. Our hotel is situated half-way up the hill called
+Maruyama.
+
+After about three-quarters of an hour's ride in the _jinrikiska_, we
+were deposited at the bottom of a flight of steps, which appeared to
+lead to a temple, but by which we reached the hotel in about five
+minutes. We were received by servants, who bowed to the ground, but
+who did not speak a word which we could understand. The rooms looked
+clean and comfortable, and the dining-room boasted a table and six
+chairs, besides several screens and _hibatchis_. The bedrooms, too,
+had beds, screens, and washstands; quite an unexpected luxury. Still
+more so was a strip of glass about half-way up the screens, through
+which we could admire the fine prospect. Anything in the shape of a
+transparent window is a complete novelty in a Japanese house, where,
+in winter, you feel as if you were imprisoned. The view from the
+verandah of the hotel over the pretty fantastic garden, the temple
+grounds, the town of Kioto, and the mountains in the distance was an
+endless source of delight to me.
+
+The servants soon produced a luncheon, excellently well cooked; and'
+directly we had finished it we sallied forth again to see what we
+could before dark. First we went to the temple of Gion, a fine
+building, standing in extensive grounds, and surrounded by smaller
+temples and houses for the priests. The Dutch envoys used to stay here
+when they were brought through the country, like prisoners, to pay
+their annual tribute for being allowed to trade with Japan. They were
+subjected to all kinds of indignities, and used to be made to dance
+and sing, pretend to be drunk, and play all sorts of pranks, for the
+amusement of the whole court as well as for the Mikado and the
+empress, hidden behind a grating.
+
+From Gion we went to see other temples, and wandered about under the
+large conifers of all kinds, trying to find out the quarters of the
+British Legation for some time, until Sir Harry Parkes returned. The
+rooms at his residence were comfortable, but cold-looking, for mats
+and paper screens do not look nice in a frost. There were tables and
+chairs and paraffin lamps, but no bedsteads, only about a dozen cotton
+and silk quilts, some of which were supposed to serve as a couch,
+while others were to be used as coverings.
+
+Sir Harry has had, I fear, a great deal of trouble about the yacht.
+She is the first vessel of the kind ever seen in Japan, with the
+exception of the one sent out in 1858 as a present from the Queen to
+the then Tycoon, and now used by the Mikado. The officials, it seems,
+cannot make the 'Sunbeam' out. 'Is she a man-of-war? We know what that
+is.' 'No.' 'Is she a merchant ship?' 'No; she is a yacht.' But what
+can be the object of a vessel without guns is quite beyond their
+comprehension. At last it has been settled that, in order to be like
+other nations, the Japanese officials will not force us to enter at
+the Custom House, or to pay a fine of sixty dollars a day for not
+doing so. As a matter of precedent, it was important that the point
+should be settled, though I hardly imagine that many yachts will
+follow our example, and come out to Japan through the Straits of
+Magellan and across the Pacific.
+
+As it was now growing late, we returned to the hotel for dinner. The
+night was cold, and _hibatchis_ and lamps alike failed to warm the
+thinly walled and paper-screened room.
+
+Sir Harry Parkes came and spent the evening with us, and taught us
+more about Japan in two or three hours than we could have learned by
+much study of many books. The fact is, that in this fast-changing
+country guide-books get out of date in two or three years. Besides
+which, Sir Harry has been one of the chief actors in many of the most
+prominent events we have recently been reading about. To hear him
+describe graphically the wars of 1868, and the Christian persecutions
+in 1870, with the causes that led to the revolution, and the effect it
+has had on the country, was indeed interesting. Still more so was his
+account of his journey hither to force the newly emerged Mikado and
+his Ministers to sign the treaty, which had already received the
+assent (of course valueless) of the deposed Tycoon.
+
+_Wednesday, February 7th_.--A misty but much warmer morning succeeded
+a wet night. At 8.30 Sir Harry Parkes and two other gentlemen arrived,
+and we all started at once in jinrikishas to see what could be seen in
+the limited time at our disposal. We went first to the temple of Gion
+Chiosiu, described elaborately in books by other travellers. It is
+specially interesting to Europeans, as it was the temple assigned to
+the foreign envoys when they paid their first visit to the Mikado in
+1868. Sir Harry Parkes showed us all their apartments, and the large
+though subsidiary temple once used as a hospital, and we afterwards
+went to see the service performed in the temple. A dozen bonzes, or
+priests, were sitting round in a circle, chanting monotonously from
+ponderous volumes, with an occasional accompaniment from a gong or
+drum. Incense was being burned, vestments worn, processions formed,
+and prayers offered to Buddha to intercede with the Supreme Being. The
+accessories and surroundings were of course different, but the
+ceremonial struck me as being much the same as that in use at Roman
+Catholic places of worship. Mr. Simpson, however, thinks differently.
+He says:
+
+'I was only a month in Japan, and that is far too short a time for
+anything like serious study; but I was much struck by the temples, and
+I find I have some notes in my book comparing them with the Jewish.
+How any direct connection could possibly exist, is far beyond my
+powers of conjecture; but I will state the points of resemblance, and
+leave others to inquire further and collect additional information.
+Wood and bronze to this day furnish the material of which temples are
+constructed in Japan, with stone as a base. Such also were the
+materials of Solomon's temple. There are enclosures round each court
+or shrine, and sometimes these courts are three in number. Hills or
+groves are usually sites for a temple, the ascent to which is by a
+long flight of steps; usually two flights give access to the shrine.
+One is long, straight, and steep, for the men; the other, less steep,
+but curved, is for the women. It will be remembered that it was the
+great stairs at Solomon's temple that so impressed the Queen of Sheba.
+Small shrines or miniature temples, called Tenno Samma, or "Heaven's
+Lord," are carried on staves, like the Ark of the Covenant, at their
+religious ceremonies. The inner shrine, or Holy of Holies, is small,
+and a cube, or nearly so, in proportion. It is usually detached behind
+the other portions of the temple, the door being closed, so that it
+cannot be seen into, and it generally contains, not an image, but a
+tablet, or what the Japanese call a "Gohei," or piece of paper, cut so
+that it hangs down in folds on each side. In the early days of
+writing, a tablet was a book, a stylus the pen. The stone on which the
+law was inscribed was only a form of the book, and the Chinese
+ancestral tablet, or other tablet, in a temple, is only a variety of
+this book form. These "Goheis" are so common in Japan, and occupy so
+important a place in all their temples, that I had a great desire to
+know what they originally meant; but as on many questions of this kind
+I could get no information, the only suggestion which presented itself
+to me was, that it might be some form of the book, for the book was a
+very sacred thing in past time, and that which is yet called the
+"Ark," in a Jewish synagogue, contains now nothing but a book. There
+is a distinct priesthood who wear vestments, and they use incense,
+music, and bells. There are two religions in Japan, Buddhism and
+Shintooism; the latter being the primitive faith, and the former an
+importation from China. The forms of the two have become slightly
+mixed, both in the construction of their temples and in the
+ceremonial; but the remarks I have just made apply particularly to the
+Shintoo religion.'
+
+One of the late acts of the government has been to declare the
+Shintoo, as the old religion of the country, to be the only State
+faith. This is the disestablishment of Buddhism, but it does not imply
+its suppression. The Buddhist priests complain very much, saying that
+their temples are not now so popular, and many are being closed.
+Speculators are buying up their fine bronze bells, and sending them
+home to be coined into English pennies and halfpennies. Changes in
+faith present many strange aspects, and this is certainly a curious
+one.
+
+We strolled about the temple grounds, and ascended the hill to see the
+famous bell, which is the second biggest in Japan. The immense beam
+which strikes it was unlashed from the platform for our edification,
+and the bell sent forth a magnificent sound, pealing over the city and
+through the woods. At one of the gates there is a curious staircase,
+leading up to the top, and there, over the gate, is seated a figure of
+Buddha, surrounded by twelve disciples, all carved in wood and
+coloured. They are quite worth a scramble up to see.
+
+From Chiosiu we went right across the city to the temple of Nishni
+Hongangi. On our way we were more than once stopped and turned off the
+direct road, which was kept by soldiers for the passage of the Mikado
+to worship at the tombstone of his innumerable ancestors, real or
+imaginary. Being a spiritual Emperor, he has to be well kept up to
+his religious duties, and is always being sent off to worship at some
+shrine or another, in order to maintain his popularity with the
+people, his Ministers meanwhile managing the affairs of state. Tanjo
+and Ikawura went off in haste to-day to Tokio, as there are rumours of
+a rebellion in the south.
+
+Nishni Hongangi is one of the largest and finest temples we have yet
+seen, even in spite of a large portion having been destroyed by the
+disastrous fire of 1864. The gates are splendidly ornamented, with
+carved chrysanthemum flowers. The centre temple is very fine, and is
+surrounded by smaller rooms, all decorated by the best Japanese
+artists of about two hundred years ago. Notice had been sent that the
+English Minister was coming with a party of friends, and everything
+had accordingly been prepared for our reception. In some places they
+had even put down carpets, to obviate the necessity of our having to
+take off our boots. The Abbot was out, which I much regretted, for he
+belongs to the Montos, the most advanced sect of Buddhism, and has
+more than once remarked to English visitors that he thought their own
+principles were so enlightened that they were paving the way for a
+higher form of religion, in the shape of Christianity--rather a
+startling confession to come from the lips of a Buddhist priest.
+
+After spending a long time among the paintings, wood-carvings,
+lacquers, bronzes, and gardens, we left the temple, and crossed
+several court-yards, before the main street was reached. Then, after a
+short walk, we came to another beautiful garden, laid out like a
+miniature park, with lakes, bridges, rocks, streams, canals,
+pavilions, &c. All these surround a house built by the celebrated
+Tycoon, Tako Sama, in the fifteenth century. Here, again, everything
+was prepared for our reception. Fires were lighted, flowers arranged,
+carpets laid down, and fruit and cakes placed in readiness, with
+_hibatchis_ to warm each and all of us. We went all over the house,
+which differs little from a Japanese house of the present day, except
+that a higher style of art was employed in its construction and
+decoration.
+
+From here we went to quite another quarter of the city to see what was
+formerly the Tycoon's palace, now used as a sort of police office. It
+is built on the same plan of three enclosures as all the _yashgis_,
+though on a very different scale from the one at Tokio. There, the
+Tycoon reigns in undisturbed sovereignty. Here, he appears as a humble
+servant of his rightful master--really his prisoner. The late Tycoon,
+after the last battle, fought at this place, fled to his castle at
+Osaka, where, though he might have held out for an indefinite period,
+he preferred to surrender. Two of his Ministers came to him and
+represented that he must not only think of himself, but of the party
+who supported the Shogunate, and that as he had betrayed them by false
+hopes he had no choice but to perform Hara-kiru. This he refused to
+do, although they set him the example; and he is now living as a
+private individual on an estate in the country, not far from Tokio,
+where he amuses himself with hunting, shooting, and fishing. It is
+said that it is possible he may one day join the ministry of the
+present Mikado.
+
+From the Tycoon's palace we drove to the 'Toshio,' or court quarter of
+the town, where the Mikado and all his relatives live, in palaces,
+surrounded by large gardens, enclosed in whitewashed walls. We saw the
+whole of Tako Sama's household furniture and wearing apparel, the
+celebrated swords of Yoritiome, called the 'knee-cutter' and the
+'beard-cutter,' from their wonderful sharpness, and many other
+interesting objects.
+
+Here we said good-bye to Sir Harry Parkes, and returned across the
+town by another route to our hotel to lunch, after which we made
+another expedition to one or two more temples, and then to a
+pawnbroker's shop, in the heart of the city, which had been strongly
+recommended to us. The exterior did not look promising; the shop
+itself was small and dirty; and they had to take some very filthy
+garments out of the way before we could enter. Once inside, however,
+it was a very different story. They showed us splendid old
+embroideries, and quantities of second-hand court dresses, embroidered
+in gold, silver, and colours, with exquisite designs. The Empress has
+thirteen ladies of honour, who wear their best dresses only twice, and
+then sell them: hence the pawnbrokers abundant stock.
+
+Wherever we went a large but perfectly civil crowd followed us, and
+people ran on before to tell others to come to their doors and look at
+us, though we were under the charge of an officer and two men. It was
+now getting dark, and we were very tired; so we at last turned back,
+and once more climbed those weary steps to our hotel. To-night there
+is some _fete_ going on in this suburb, and the whole place is alive
+with lights, dancing, music, and tum-tums.
+
+After dinner all our purchases arrived, each accompanied by at least
+four or five men. Other people had heard of our visit, and had brought
+more things for us to look at; so that the room soon resembled a
+bazaar. At last we got rid of them, having settled that they should
+pack our things and take them down to Kobe, where they would be paid
+for. The Japanese shopkeepers, though difficult to deal with, are
+incorruptible when once the bargain is made. They pack most carefully,
+frequently adding boxes, bags, and baskets, not originally included in
+the purchase, in order that the articles may travel more safely. The
+smallest article is sure to be put in, and the greatest care is taken
+of everything, even if they know you do not mean to open the cases for
+months.
+
+If it were only warmer, how delightful it would all be! The cold
+spoils everything to a certain extent. At night we have to choose
+whether to be half frozen in our beds, or stifled with the fumes of
+charcoal from the _hibatchis_.
+
+_Thursday, February 8th_.--The sunrise over the city, with the river
+and mountains beyond, was superb. We breakfasted at eight; but even by
+that hour the courtyard and passage were crowded with vendors of
+curiosities of all sorts, and no doubt great bargains might have been
+picked up. But we had no time to lose, for our train started at 9.30,
+and we had a delightfully rapid drive to the station through the sunny
+streets of Kioto.
+
+Arrived at Kobe, we went first to lunch with some friends, and
+immediately after hastened on board to receive the foreign Ministers
+and other friends; and did not land again that evening.
+
+_Friday, February 9th_.--We left by ten o'clock train for Osaka, which
+has been called the Venice of Japan. It is intersected by innumerable
+rivers and canals, and boats were continually making their appearance
+at points where they were least expected, as our _jinrikisha_ men
+hurried us along the narrow and not very sweet-smelling streets. We
+went so fast that, more than once before we reached the Mint, I
+thought we should have been tipped into one of the canals, as we
+turned a sharp corner. Our men upset the baskets and stalls that
+encroached on the road, in the most unceremonious manner; but their
+proprietors did not seem to mind, many of them quietly moving their
+wares out of the way as they heard the shouts that announced our
+approach. The smell in the fish-market was disgusting, and enough to
+poison the air for miles around, but the people did not seem to mind
+it in the least.
+
+At last we left the river and town, and, climbing a slight eminence,
+crossed the first moat by a stone bridge, and reached the guard-house
+on the other side. There was some hesitation at first about admitting
+us; but it was soon overcome. This castle, the last stronghold of the
+Tycoon, is built on exactly the same plan as the _yashgis_ we had
+already visited, but much stronger, being composed of enormous blocks
+of stone. One wonders how human labour could ever have transported
+them from their quarry to this place, for some measured 40 ft. long by
+20 ft. high. We crossed the three moats and the three enclosures, now
+all full of barracks and soldiers. In the very centre, the old well
+and a little square tower are still standing, part of the Tycoon's
+original residence, which was destroyed by fire. The view from the top
+over the town and surrounding country is very fine. You can see
+countless streams coming from the mountains, and flowing into
+Odawarra, on which Osaka is situated. The course of the river itself
+could be traced to the bay; and the line of coast to Kobe, and the
+far-off mountains in the Inland Sea were plainly visible.
+
+On returning to the Mint we found luncheon awaiting us, and afterwards
+spent a pleasant time looking at a wonderful collection of curios.
+
+The Imperial Mint of Japan is a large handsome building, in great
+force just now, for the whole of the old money is being called in and
+replaced by the government. The contrast between the two moneys is
+very great. The ancient coinage consisted of long thin oval obangs and
+shobangs, worth from two dollars to eighteen pounds each, square
+silver itzeboos, and square copper pieces, with a hole in the centre;
+while that which is taking its place is similar to European coinage,
+and is marked in English characters, and ornamented with Japanese
+devices, such as the phoenix and the dragon. It did not seem worth
+while to go minutely over the Mint, as it is arranged on exactly the
+same principle as the one in London, and the processes are carried out
+in the same manner.
+
+Osaka used to be the emporium of all the inland commerce, and was
+considered the pearl of Japanese cities. After the revolution, and
+when the Mint was built, there was some intention of making it the
+capital of the empire. That idea was, however, abandoned; and the
+inconvenience of having the Mint so far away from the seat of
+government is greatly felt, all the bullion having to be sent
+backwards and forwards at great expense by sea. Commerce has now
+almost deserted Osaka, owing to the difficulty experienced by large
+ships in anchoring near the town, and the impossibility of their
+crossing the bar. The foreign consuls and representatives have all
+left the place for the newly established settlement at Kobe, where
+they feel safer, with men-of-war at anchor just under their windows.
+
+[Illustration: Wayside Travellers.]
+
+There was just time to go round some of the old streets, and to some
+of the shops, before the hour by which we were due at the station.
+Osaka is famous for its waxworks and theatres. Five of the best of
+these have, however, been burnt down within the last eighteen months,
+with terrible loss of life. We heard that a short time ago there was
+nearly being serious trouble, in consequence of one of the managers
+having produced on the stage, in a most objectionable manner, a
+representation of the cruel and unprovoked assassination of an officer
+and two men, part of a boat's crew of a French ship. The English and
+French consuls went to the governor of the town, who promised that the
+piece should be stopped, and the obnoxious placards announcing the
+performance removed at once. But his instructions were not complied
+with, for the next day the piece was again performed, and the placards
+were still there. Some French sailors, luckily accompanied by their
+officers, saw the latter and wanted to tear them down; but they were
+persuaded to wait while the consuls were telegraphed for. They came at
+once, and again saw the governor, who sent some soldiers to stop the
+play and remove the bills; and so the affair ended peaceably.
+
+We reached Kobe about seven o'clock, and went on board at once to
+dinner.
+
+_Saturday, February 10th_.--We were to have gone early this morning to
+Arrima, a village in the mountains, situated among groves of bamboos,
+where there are mineral springs and a hot-water bath, in which people
+bathe in the old style. But the weather was impossibly bad for our
+intended expedition, with showers of snow and sleet. We waited till
+half-past eleven, and then landed and talked of going to Osaka again
+by train; but finally decided that even this was not practicable, and
+that we had better stay and potter about at Kobe and Hiogo. The
+children set out to buy toys, whilst I went with a lady to pay another
+visit to the white horse and monkeys at the temple, and then walked on
+to a waterfall, prettily situated in a ravine, a little way behind the
+town. We afterwards visited several pawnbrokers' shops, at all of
+which there was something interesting to be seen. Many are perfect
+museums; but their proprietors never seem to care much to show you
+what they have, unless you are accompanied by a resident or some one
+they know. Then they invite you into the iron fire-proof 'godown' or
+store, at the back, and out of funny little boxes and bags and parcels
+produce all sorts of rare and curious things which have been sent to
+them to be sold, or which they may possibly have bought themselves. It
+is not of the slightest use to go to the large shops, full of things,
+if you want anything really good, for you will only find there
+articles specially prepared for the European and American market.
+
+I am very glad to hear that Dr. Dresser is here, collecting,
+lecturing, and trying to persuade the Japanese to adhere to their own
+forms and taste in art and decoration. It is a great pity to observe
+the decadence of native art, and at the same time to see how much
+better the old things are than the new. A true Japanese artist never
+repeats himself, and consequently never makes an exact pair of
+anything. His designs agree generally, and his vases are more or less
+alike, without being a precise match. He throws in a spray of flowers,
+a bird, or a fan, as the fancy strikes him, and the same objects are
+therefore never placed in exactly the same relative position. Modern
+articles are made precisely alike, not only in pairs, but by the dozen
+and the hundred.
+
+There are beautiful bantams to be seen in some of the shops here; but
+they cannot be bought, as they are private pets. They seem generally
+very small, and one I saw to-day had his head far behind his tail,
+which divided in the middle outwards, and fell forward on either side
+of his neck in the most extraordinary way. How he picked up his food
+and got through life, I am sure I don't know. There are plenty of
+little Japanese dogs; but they are not seen to advantage this cold
+weather, and there would be great difficulty in getting them home.
+
+I bought some fine bantams at Yokohama, and a whole cage full of
+rice-birds. They are the dearest little things, and spend most of the
+day bathing and twittering, occasionally getting all together into one
+nest, with their twenty-five heads peeping out. They are exactly like
+a magnified grain of rice, with legs and a bill. I hope I shall take
+them home alive, as they have borne the cold very well so far. We have
+also some mandarin ducks on board, and some gold and silver fish with
+two tails. Our sailors have over a hundred birds of their own, which
+never appear on deck, except on very sunny days. I don't know where
+they can keep them, unless they stow them away in their Japanese
+cabinets.
+
+We went on board about dark, and a few friends came to dinner.
+
+_Sunday, February 11th_.--About 7 a.m., two Japanese officers came on
+board with a message which nobody could understand. When we went on
+deck, we saw that all the ships were dressed, and concluded that we
+had been asked to do the same; but we thought it better to send ashore
+to ascertain positively. The next difficulty was to get a Japanese
+flag. Tom went on board the 'Thabor,' a Japanese ship, to borrow one,
+and found everything was in bustle and confusion, news having arrived
+from Kiusiu that the rebels were mustering in great force, and that
+they had seized some ships. The 'Thabor,' 'Mihu Maru,' and three
+others, are therefore to go through the Inland Sea to Nagasaki this
+afternoon.
+
+The Japanese admiral sent word early this morning that he would come
+on board at two o'clock with some of his captains, and the French
+admiral also expressed a hope that it would be convenient to receive
+him and his captains at three. Their visits occupied nearly all the
+afternoon. We afterwards landed with the French admiral, paid some
+farewell visits, and went to look at a collection of old lacquer and
+Satsuma china, before we returned to the yacht.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+THE INLAND SEA.
+
+    _Dipped in the lines of sunset, wreathed in zones,_
+    _The clouds are resting on their mountain thrones;_
+    _One peak alone exalts its glacier crest,_
+    _A golden paradise above the rest._
+    _Thither the day with lingering steps retires,_
+    _And in its own blue element expires._
+
+_Monday, February 12th_.--Fires were lighted at 4 a.m., and by six we
+were steaming slowly out of the beautiful bay of Kobe. It was a cold
+bright morning, with a strong head wind, increasing every moment as we
+proceeded, until, in the straits of Akashi, it became almost
+impossible to make any way against it. There was not much sea, but the
+wind impeded our progress so much, that it was at last reduced to one
+mile instead of nine an hour. The straits are very fine, and the old
+castle presents an admirable specimen of the architecture of a
+Daimio's residence.
+
+We proceeded across the Harima Nada, where we were more or less
+exposed to the open sea, and where we took more water on board than we
+had done in the gale before arriving at Yokohama. There were no big
+waves, but we rolled tremendously, and the spray came over us, though
+the mere force of the wind seemed to keep the sea down.
+
+After struggling until twelve o'clock, and having done but little good
+for the last three hours, Tom determined to run back, and in a short
+time we found ourselves once more at anchor in the harbour of Kobe. It
+was a work of considerable difficulty, owing to the strong wind and
+tide, to steer safely among the numerous vessels, and for a few
+minutes we thought we were aground, as we did not make the slightest
+progress, though the engines were working ahead full speed. The
+proveedor's boat came out to us as soon as we were perceived, and we
+landed in her; but it was as much as the six stout oarsmen could do to
+make way against the wind.
+
+We went for a walk, or rather a scramble, to the waterfall, half-way
+up to the Temple of the Moon. Much of the ground was covered with
+snow, the streams were frozen at the sides, and there were hanging
+icicles to be seen, six feet in length; and yet on either side were
+camellias and tea-trees covered with red and white blossoms,
+orange-trees, laden with fruit; gold-fish swimming about in ponds,
+overhung with maidenhair fern, besides pteris and hothouse ferns,
+shaded by bamboos, palms, and castor-oil plants. The order of
+vegetation seems to be as much reversed as everything else in this
+strange country. In England all those plants would require
+conservatories, or at least sheltered spots, and the greatest care,
+instead of being exposed to frost and snow.
+
+Getting on board again was even a more difficult business than landing
+had been; but we arrived at last without mishap.
+
+_Tuesday, February 13th_.--The wind dropped at sunset, and as it
+continued calm all night, Tom ordered fires to be lighted at 4 a.m. By
+six o'clock, however, it was blowing harder than ever, and we
+therefore decided to make an excursion to Arrima instead of attempting
+another start.
+
+We went ashore to make the necessary arrangements, and it was settled
+that we should start at ten o'clock, which we did, with the Consulate
+constable as our guide.
+
+We had three men to each _jinrikisha_, and went along at a merry pace
+through the long straggling towns of Kobe and Hiogo. The cold was
+intense, and before we started our poor _jinrikisha_ men were
+shivering until they nearly shook us out of the vehicles. Soon they
+were streaming with perspiration, and at our first halting-place they
+took off almost all their garments, though it was as much as we could
+do to keep warm in our furs and wraps. We waited while they partook
+copiously of hot tea and bowls of rice, and bought new straw shoes, or
+rather sandals, for less than a farthing a pair.
+
+To-day being the Japanese New Year's Day, all the little shrines in
+the houses and along the road were prettily decorated, and had
+offerings of rice, _saki_, and fruit deposited upon them. The spirits
+of the departed are supposed to come down and partake, not of the
+things themselves, but of the subtle invisible essence that rises from
+them. The road now became very pretty, winding through the valleys,
+climbing up and dipping down the various hills, and passing through
+picturesque villages, where all the people, leaving their meals or
+their games, came out to look at us, while some of the children
+scampered on to secure a good view of the foreigners, and others ran
+away frightened and screaming. They were all dressed in dark blue
+clothes, turned up with red, with bright embroidered _obis_ and
+flowers in their elaborately dressed hair. I have managed to get some
+dolls' wigs, which give a good idea of the various styles of
+hair-dressing.
+
+In rather more than three hours we reached Arrima, a village far more
+beautifully situated than any we had seen, in the very centre of the
+mountains, where a dozen valleys converge into one centre. On one side
+are mineral springs, on the other a river. Bamboos grow luxuriantly on
+all sides, and the inhabitants of the various valleys obtain their
+livelihood by manufacturing from them all sorts of articles: boxes for
+every conceivable purpose; baskets, fine and coarse, large and small,
+useful and ornamental, coloured and plain; brushes, pipes, battledores
+and shuttlecocks, sticks, spoons, knives and forks, sauce ladles,
+boats, lamps, cradles, &c.
+
+The first glimpse of the village is lovely; that from the bridge that
+crosses the river is still more so. We clambered up narrow streets,
+with quaint carved houses and overhanging balconies, till we reached a
+tea-house, kept by a closely shaven bonze, or priest. He seemed very
+pleased to see us, and bowed and shook hands over and over again. He
+placed his whole house at our disposal, and a very clean, pretty, and
+well-arranged house it was, with a lovely little formal garden,
+ornamented with mimic temples and bridges of ice, fashioned by the
+hard frost, with but little assistance from the hand of man. Bits of
+wood and stone, a few graceful fern-leaves and sprays of bamboo, and a
+trickling stream of water produced the most fairy-like crystalline
+effects imaginable. If only some good fairy could, with a touch of her
+wand, preserve it all intact until a few months hence, what a delight
+it would be in the hot summer weather!
+
+To-day the paper house was indeed cold; but even so slight a shelter
+from the bitter wind was acceptable, though we regretted the screens
+could not be opened to enable us to admire the prospect on all sides.
+The luncheon basket being quickly unpacked, the good priest warmed our
+food and produced a bottle of port wine, which he mulled for our
+benefit. Cheered and refreshed we proceeded on our way, leaving him
+much delighted with what seemed to us but a small recompense for his
+courtesy.
+
+Every house and shop in those narrow picturesque streets was a study
+in itself, and so were the quaint groups of people we met, and who
+gazed eagerly at us. We looked into the public baths, two oblong
+tanks, into which the mineral springs came bubbling up, thick and
+yellow, and strongly impregnated with iron, at a temperature of 112 deg..
+They are covered in, and there is a rough passage round them. Here, in
+the bathing season, people of both sexes stand in rows, packed as
+tight as herrings in a barrel, and there are just as many outside
+waiting their turn to enter. To-day there were only two bathers,
+immersed up to their chins in the steaming water. They had left all
+their clothes at home, and would shortly have to pass through the
+streets without any covering, notwithstanding the cold.
+
+[Illustration: Arrima. The Village of Bamboo Basket Work]
+
+From the baths we went to some of the best basket shops, where the
+beauty and cheapness of the articles exposed for sale offered great
+temptations. We had to disturb our _jinrikiska_ men, who were enjoying
+their frugal meal at a separate tea-house. It was beautifully served,
+and as clean and nicely cooked as possible, though consisting of
+viands which we might not have fancied, such as various kinds of fish,
+seaweed, sea-snails (_beche de mer_), and rice. Each man had his own
+little table and eight or ten separate dishes, a bottle of _saki_,
+tea-pipe, and _hibatchi_, arranged exactly as ours had been at the
+tea-house at Yokohama. How well they managed their chop-sticks, how
+quickly they shovelled the food down, and how clean they left each
+dish! Habit is everything.
+
+We were anxious to make the best of our way home, and starting at
+four, with but a short stop at the halfway tea-house, we reached the
+hotel soon after seven, having taken less than an hour to come five
+miles over a very bad road, an inch deep in mud. So much for a
+'man-power carriage,' the literal translation of the word
+_jinrikisha_.[18] Soon after an excellent dinner we returned on board,
+so as to be ready for an early start to-morrow morning.
+
+[Footnote 18: Or 'pull-man-car,' as it is sometimes called.]
+
+_Wednesday, February 14th_.--We were called at 4 a.m. Fires were
+lighted, but before steam was up the wind had risen; so our start was
+once more postponed to the afternoon. We steamed out to the buoy, from
+among the shipping, in order to be able to get away more easily at
+night. The wind generally goes down at sunset, and Tom hoped that, by
+taking our departure then, we should get through the worst part of the
+Inland Sea before the wind again rose with the sun.
+
+After breakfast we went ashore, and dispersed in different directions,
+to meet again at the hotel for luncheon. Then we all again separated,
+the children going to the circus, whilst I took a drive, with a pair
+of black and white Hakodadi ponies, to the foot of the hills behind
+the town.
+
+It was a pleasant circuit by pretty valleys, and brought us back to
+the town by a different road. I went to pick up the children at the
+circus, and found them just coming out, with delighted faces, having
+most thoroughly enjoyed themselves. They went on board to tea, but
+Mabelle and I went with the Consul in _jinrikishas_ to a Japanese
+theatre at Hiogo. The streets were crowded with holiday-makers; for
+to-day is the first of the Chinese new year, as yesterday was the
+first of the Japanese new year. The floor of the theatre was crowded
+with people, all squatting on their heels, each with his or her
+chow-chow box and _hibatchi_ or brazier of burning charcoal to keep
+themselves warm. The performance frequently goes on for ten or twelve
+hours, with short intervals and whole families come and take up their
+abode at the theatre for twelve hours at a time. The acting was not
+at all bad, and the performers were beautifully dressed.
+
+We did not stay very long at the theatre, but were soon tearing back
+again through the streets to the Consulate. These quick rides in a
+_jinrikisha_, especially at night, are very amusing. You have the
+pleasure of going at a high speed, and yet, being on a level with the
+people, you can see much more of them and of their manners than would
+be possible in a carriage.
+
+When we reached the Consulate we found the chief of the police of the
+foreign settlement waiting for the Consul, to inform him that Japanese
+soldiers were patrolling the town with fixed bayonets, alleging that
+information had been sent to the Governor that some of the rebels were
+in the hills at the back of the town, and might appear at any moment.
+The ships-of-war were to be communicated with at once for the
+protection of the inhabitants. They do not expect a general attack
+here, but seem to think the rebels' plan is to creep up by degrees to
+Osaka, where the Mikado is shortly expected to stay, and take
+possession of his person and the imperial treasure at one blow.
+
+When I got on board the 'Sunbeam' again, I found that steam was up and
+all was ready for starting; but the wind was still strong against us,
+and it was evidently necessary again to wait until four o'clock
+to-morrow morning.
+
+We were rolling a good deal, and, coming along the engine-room
+passage, my foot slipped, a door banged to, and my thumb was caught in
+the hinge and terribly crushed. Dressing it was a very painful affair,
+as the doctor had to ascertain whether the bone was broken, and I
+fainted during the operation. At last I was carried to my cabin and
+put to bed, after taking a strong dose of chloral to soothe the
+agonising pain.
+
+_Thursday, February 15th_.--I wonder if anybody who has not
+experienced it can realise the stupefying, helpless sensation of being
+roused up from a sound sleep, in the middle of the night, on board
+ship, by the cry of 'Fire!' and finding oneself enveloped in a smoke
+so dense as to render everything invisible.
+
+[Illustration: The Yacht on Fire.]
+
+At 2.30 a.m. I was awakened by a great noise and a loud cry of 'The
+ship is on fire!' followed by Mr. Bingham rushing into our cabin to
+arouse us. At first I could hardly realise where we were, or what was
+happening, as I was half stupid with chloral, pain, and smoke, which
+was issuing from each side of the staircase in dense volumes. My first
+thought was for the children, but I found they had not been forgotten.
+Rolled up in blankets, they were already in transit to the deck-house.
+In the meantime Mr. Bingham had drenched the flames with every
+available jug of water, and Tom had roused the crew, and made them
+screw the hose on to the pump. They were afraid to open the hatches,
+to discover where the fire was, until the hose and _extincteurs_ were
+ready to work, as they did not know whether or not the hold was on
+fire, and the whole ship might burst into a blaze the moment the air
+was admitted. Allen soon appeared with an _extincteur_ on his back,
+and the mate with the hose. Then the cupboard in Mr. Bingham's room
+was opened, and burning cloaks, dresses, boxes of curios,
+portmanteaus, &c., were hauled out, and, by a chain of men, sent on
+deck, where they were drenched with sea-water or thrown overboard.
+Moving these things caused the flames to increase in vigour, and the
+_extincteur_ was used freely, and with the greatest success. It is an
+invaluable invention, especially for a yacht, where there are so many
+holes and corners which it would be impossible to reach by ordinary
+means. All this time the smoke was pouring in volumes from the
+cupboard on the other side, and from under the nursery fireplace. The
+floors were pulled up, and the partitions were pulled down, until at
+last the flames were got under. The holds were next examined. No
+damage had been done there; but the cabin floor was completely burnt
+through, and the lead from the nursery fireplace was running about,
+melted by the heat.
+
+The explanation of the cause of the fire is very simple. Being a
+bitterly cold night, a roaring fire had been made up in the nursery,
+but about half-past ten the servants thought it looked rather
+dangerous and raked it out. The ashpan was not large enough, however,
+to hold the hot embers, which soon made the tiles red-hot. The
+woodwork caught fire, and had been smouldering for hours, when the
+nurse fortunately woke and discovered the state of affairs. She tried
+to rouse the other maids, but they were stupefied with the smoke, and
+so she rushed off at once to the doctor and Mr. Bingham. The former
+seized a child under each arm, wrapped them in blankets, and carried
+them off to the deck-house, Mabelle and the maids following, with more
+blankets and rugs, hastily snatched up. The children were as good as
+possible. They never cried nor made the least fuss, but composed
+themselves in the deck-house to sleep for the remainder of the night,
+as if it were all a matter of course. When I went to see them, little
+Muriel remarked: 'If the yacht is on fire, mamma, had not baby and I
+better get our ulsters, and go with Emma in the boat to the hotel, to
+be out of the way?' It is the third time in their short lives that
+they have been picked out of bed in the middle of the night and
+carried off in blankets away from a fire, so I suppose they are
+getting quite used to it.
+
+There can be no doubt that the preservation of the yacht from very
+serious damage, if not from complete destruction, was due to the
+prompt and efficient manner in which the _extincteurs_ were used. It
+was not our first experience of the value of this invention; for, not
+very long before we undertook our present expedition, a fire broke out
+in our house in London, on which occasion the _extincteurs_ we
+fortunately had at hand rendered most excellent service in subduing
+the flames.
+
+By half-past three all danger was past, and we began to settle down
+again, though it took a long time to get rid of the smoke.
+
+At four o'clock we weighed anchor, and once more made a start from
+Kobe, and passed through the Straits of Akashi. The wind was dead
+ahead, but not so strong as when we made our previous attempts. It was
+bitterly cold, the thermometer, in a sheltered place, being only one
+degree above freezing, and the breeze from the snowy mountains cutting
+like a knife.
+
+We were all disappointed with our sail to-day; perhaps because we had
+heard so much of the extreme beauty of the scenery, and this is not
+the best time of year for seeing it. The hills are all brown, instead
+of being covered with luxuriant vegetation, and all looked bleak and
+barren, though the outlines of the mountain ranges were very fine. We
+were reminded of the west coast of Scotland, the Lofoden Islands in
+the Arctic Circle, and the tamer portions of the scenery of the
+Straits of Magellan.
+
+After passing through the Straits, we crossed the Harima Nada--rather
+a wider portion of the sea--and then entered the intricate channels
+among the islands once more. There are three thousand of them
+altogether, so one may take it for granted that the navigation is by
+no means easy. The currents and tides are strong, sunken rocks are
+frequent, and the greatest care is requisite. Indeed, many people at
+Yokohama urged Tom to take a pilot.
+
+[Illustration: Yoken San or Sacred Mountain, Inland Sea]
+
+We had one lovely view in the afternoon of the island of Yoken San,
+with its snowy mountain at the back, and a pretty little village, with
+a few picturesque junks in the foreground. The yacht passed between
+Oki Sama and Le Sama, steering straight for the cone-shaped little
+island of Odutsi. Towards dusk we made the light of Nabae Sinaon Yo
+Sina, and, steering past it, had to take several sharp and awkward
+turns, to avoid two reefs off Siyako and Usi Suria. Thus we threaded
+the St. Vincent's Channel, and, avoiding the Conqueror bank by another
+sharp turn, dropped anchor at Imo Ura, in Hurusima, precisely at 8.30
+p.m. Tom had been on the look-out since 5 a.m., and we were all more
+or less worn out with the fatigue and excitement of last night.
+
+_Friday, February 16th_.--Off again at 4 a.m. The scenery was much
+finer than yesterday, and the wind not quite so bitterly cold.
+
+About 11 a.m. I heard a hurrying to and fro, and once more the cry of
+'Fire!' This time it was in the store-room that it broke out. The iron
+plates on which the saloon and galley grates are fixed had become
+red-hot, and the wooden deck below had consequently caught fire. The
+boxes on both sides, containing the stores, were in flames; but they
+were quickly removed, water was poured down, and the second and third
+fires were thus soon extinguished.
+
+[Illustration: Hurusima, Inland Sea.]
+
+_Saturday, February 17th_.--At 3.15 a.m. we began to slow; at 3.45 the
+anchor was dropped near the lighthouse of Isaki, and we waited until
+daylight before proceeding through the Straits of Simono-seki. About
+nine o'clock a fresh start was made, under steam, but before long the
+wind freshened, and as soon as the anchorage near the town was reached
+we let go once more, near two men-of-war, who had preceded us from
+Kobe, but who were now wind-bound, like ourselves.
+
+To our astonishment, we also saw a large ship from Nova Scotia at
+anchor, the 'Mary Fraser,' although this is not a free port, nor
+within treaty limits. The gig was lowered at once, and we rowed
+alongside to gain what intelligence could be learned, as well as to
+ascertain what likelihood there might be of our obtaining fresh
+supplies here. The captain was very civil and kind, and volunteered to
+go on shore with us and act as our interpreter. We landed opposite a
+large teahouse, where we were immediately surrounded by a crowd of
+Japanese, who stared at us eagerly and even touched us, only through
+curiosity. They pursued us wherever we went, and when we entered a
+tea-house or shop the whole crowd immediately stopped, and if we
+retired to the back they surged all over the front premises, and
+penetrated into the interior as far as they could. A most amusing
+scene took place at one of the tea-houses, where we went to order some
+provisions for the yacht. It was rather a tedious process, and when we
+came out of the back room we found the whole of the front of the place
+filled by a gaping, curious crowd. The proprietor suggested that they
+should retire at once, and an abrupt retreat immediately took place,
+the difficulties of which were greatly augmented by the fact that
+every one had left his high wooden shoes outside, along the front of
+the house. The street was ankle deep in mud and half-melted snow, into
+which they did not like to venture in their stockings; but how the
+owners of two or three hundred pairs of clogs, almost exactly alike,
+ever found their own property again I do not understand, though they
+managed to clear out very quickly. I believe Muriel and I were the
+chief objects of attraction. They told us that no European lady or
+child had ever been at Simono-seki before. It is not a treaty port, so
+no one is allowed to land, except from a man-of-war, without special
+permission, which is not often given; it is, besides, the key to the
+Inland Sea, and the authorities are very jealous about any one seeing
+the forts. There is only one European resident here, connected with
+the telegraph; and a dull time he must have of it. The wire crosses
+the Straits a few miles higher up.
+
+The streets appeared to be full of soldiers, patrolling singly and in
+pairs, with fixed bayonets. The temples were being used as barracks,
+and the principal buildings seemed to be strongly guarded; but
+otherwise everything appeared to go on as usual.
+
+We waded through the mud and snow to the proverbial end of all things,
+always followed by the same crowd, and stared at by all the
+inhabitants of the houses we passed. They seemed very timid, and
+inclined to run away directly we turned round. Still, their curiosity,
+especially respecting my sealskin jacket and serge dress, was
+insatiable, and I constantly felt myself being gently stroked and
+touched.
+
+We returned to the yacht, and whilst we were at lunch some officers
+came on board to say that, this not being a treaty port, we could not
+purchase any provisions, except through them, and with special
+permission. This was soon arranged, and our visitors were rewarded for
+their trouble by being shown over the yacht.
+
+_Sunday, February 18th_.--We were awakened in the night by a heavy
+gale, with snow and sleet beating furiously on the deck. In the
+morning the land was covered with snow, the water froze as it was
+pumped on deck, and the bitter wind howled and whistled through the
+rigging. In the afternoon the wind even increased in violence, the
+snowstorms became more frequent, and the sky was dark and overcast.
+
+We had service at eleven and again at four. The sun set cold and
+stormy, promising a wild night. At times the shore was quite hidden by
+the snowstorms, though only a few cables' lengths off.
+
+_Monday, February 19th_.--The wind and weather became worse than ever,
+and, as time was precious, Tom decided to retrace our steps for a
+short distance and go through the Bungo Channel, between the islands
+of Sikok and Kiusiu, instead of going out to sea through the
+Simono-seki Straits, as, in the latter case, the gale would be right
+in our teeth, and we should make but little progress. Now we shall be
+under the shelter of Kiusiu and the Linschoten and Luchu islands for
+at least two days, and so make a fair wind of it. Steering due south,
+too, we may hope to be soon out of this horrid weather. The only
+drawback to this plan is that we shall miss seeing Nagasaki, which I
+much regret. There are no great sights there, but the scenery is
+pretty, and the place is interesting owing to the fact that it was the
+first and for many years the only, port open to foreigners, and also
+the scene of the cruel murders of Christians and the site of the
+beautiful island of Pappenberg. Shanghai I do not think I regret so
+much, though Tom would have been interested to talk with the merchants
+about their commerce, and to see their houses, many of which are, I am
+told, perfect palaces. It would be very cold there, too, at this time
+of year; and I do so long to lose my cough and feel warm once more.
+
+At 8.30 p.m. we weighed and proceeded under steam. The views of the
+mountains, between the snowstorms, were lovely, with the fresh-fallen
+snow shining in an occasional gleam of sunshine. We soon passed the
+Isaki light, with wind and tide in our favour, and at sunset found
+ourselves in the open waters of the North Pacific.
+
+_Tuesday, February 20th_.--A lovely day; the thermometer already
+twenty degrees higher than it was yesterday. The wind had dropped, and
+at 10 a.m. it had become so calm that fires were lighted.
+
+It was delightful to see everybody and everything on board--people,
+children, animals, and birds, all and each sunning themselves, and
+trying to get thawed after the freezing they have had. We have
+unfortunately lost one of the Hawaiian geese, which I much regret, as
+it is irreplaceable. None have, I believe, ever been exported before.
+The pig from Harpe Island is very well. We have not seen him all the
+cold weather, as he has been buried in straw in a box, but they say
+that the cold has stopped his growth.
+
+We were continually passing islands throughout the day, sometimes six
+or seven being in sight at one time, some with active and more with
+extinct volcanoes. We saw smoke issuing from three of the cones, but
+by night we were too far off to notice the flames.
+
+_Wednesday, February 21st_.--The calm still continues. The sun is
+bright, the sky blue, and the atmosphere warm. During the night we
+passed Suwa Sima, Akuisi Sima, and Yoko Sima.
+
+In the afternoon a light breeze sprang up; we stopped steaming, and
+before nightfall were bowling along smoothly at the rate of ten knots.
+
+_Thursday, February 22nd_.--The same delightful breeze continued
+throughout the night and most of the day. By noon we had done 220
+miles. Everybody had on summer clothes, and we all felt ourselves
+gradually expanding after being shrivelled up by the cold of the last
+month.
+
+I should never recommend anybody to come to Japan in the winter. You
+do not see it at its best, I am sure, and the scanty protection
+afforded by houses and carriages makes travelling a penance rather
+than a pleasure. Travellers, however, who wish to see Japan should do
+so at once; for the country is changing every day, and in three years
+more will be so Europeanised that little will be left worth seeing; or
+a violent anti-foreign revulsion of feeling may have taken place, and
+then the ports will be closed more strictly than they were even before
+the execution of the first treaty. Nothing that we can give them do
+they really want; their exports are not large; and they have learned
+nearly all they care to know from the foreigner. We have seen many of
+the European engineers of Japanese vessels, and they all agree in
+declaring that the natives learn to imitate anything they see done
+with wonderful quickness. These men also averred that in a few years
+there will not be a single foreigner employed in Japan, as the
+Japanese will be quite in a position to dispense with such aid; and
+although the Government pay foreigners in a high position exceedingly
+well, their service offers no career to a young man. His engagement is
+for so many years, and when his subordinates have learned to do the
+work he may go where he likes. I am bound to add that I have heard the
+contrary opinion equally strongly expressed; but the facts I have
+mentioned make me lean rather to the former than to the latter side of
+the story.
+
+_Friday, February 23rd_.--Another pleasant day. The wind dropped,
+fires were lighted, and at 4.30 p.m. we proceeded under steam. Soon
+after seven, whilst we were at dinner, the table gave a sudden lurch,
+which was followed by the sound of rain on the deck above. We found
+that a breeze had sprung up all at once, and had carried away some of
+our head-sails before they could possibly be taken in. Even under
+close-reefed canvas we had a most uneasy night, racing along at from
+ten to twelve knots an hour.
+
+_Saturday, February 24th_.--We were rushing along, literally _through_
+the water all day, for there was plenty of it on deck--not really any
+great quantity, but sufficient to make everything wet and
+uncomfortable.
+
+At 1.35 we made the island of Ockseu, a capital land-fall, and very
+satisfactory in every way; for the sky was too much overcast to get an
+observation, and the currents hereabouts are strong and variable.
+During the night the wind fell light, but we maintained a speed of
+from nine to ten knots.
+
+_Sunday, February 25th_.--A much finer day. At 8 a.m. we had run 299
+knots since the same time yesterday. We met a large steamer and passed
+a brigantine; also several Chinese junks. About twelve o'clock we saw
+a flag being waved frantically from a junk not far from us. At first
+we thought something was wrong with them; but soon a small boat put
+off with three men, and we found, on its arrival alongside, that it
+contained a pilot anxious for a job. He was very disappointed that we
+would not let him come on board; but Tom always likes doing the
+pilotage himself. The boat was a rough wash-tub kind of affair, not
+much better than those used by the inhabitants of Tierra del Fuego and
+Patagonia.
+
+About two o'clock we entered the tropics; but the weather is now
+colder again, and not nearly so pleasant as it was two days ago. I
+suppose it is owing to the north-east monsoon.
+
+In the course of the afternoon we received several more offers of
+pilotage, all of which were declined; and at 7.45 we got up steam and
+lay to all night, ready to go into Hongkong harbour at daylight.
+
+_Monday, February 26th_.--At 4 a.m. we found ourselves close under the
+light on the eastern end of the island of Hongkong. We were surrounded
+by islands, and the morning was dark and thick; so we waited till
+5.30, and then steamed on through the Kowloon passage up to the city
+of Victoria, as it is really named, though it is generally called
+Hongkong. The channel is long, and in some places so narrow that it is
+like going through a mountain pass, with barren hills and rocks on
+either hand; but the combined effect of the blue waters, and red,
+brown, and yellow hills, is very fine.
+
+Off the town of Victoria the crowd of shipping is immense, and it
+became a difficult task to thread our way between the fleets of
+sampans and junks. The latter are the most extraordinary-looking craft
+I ever saw, with high, overhanging sterns and roll, or rather draw, up
+sails, sometimes actually made of silk, and puffed like a lady's net
+ball-dress. Then their decks are so crowded with lumber, live and
+dead, that you wonder how the boats can be navigated at all. But still
+they are much more picturesque than the Japanese junks, and better sea
+boats. The sampans are long boats, pointed at both ends, and provided
+with a small awning. They have deep keels; and underneath the floor
+there is one place for a cooking fire, another for an altar, and a
+third where the children are stowed to be out of the way. In these
+sampans whole families, sometimes five generations, live and move and
+have their being. I never shall forget my astonishment when, going
+ashore very early one morning in one of these strange craft, the
+proprietor lifted up what I had thought was the bottom of the boat,
+and disclosed three or four children, packed away as tight as
+herrings, while under the seats were half-a-dozen people of larger
+growth. The young mother of the small family generally rows with the
+smallest baby strapped on to her back, and the next-sized one in her
+arms, whom she is also teaching to row. The children begin to row by
+themselves when they are about two years old. The boys have a gourd,
+intended for a life-preserver, tied round their necks as soon as they
+are born. The girls are left to their fate, a Chinaman thinking it
+rather an advantage to lose a daughter or two occasionally.
+
+Many of these sampan people have never set foot on shore in their
+lives, and this water-life of China is one of the most extraordinary
+features of the country. It is what strikes all travellers, and so has
+tempted me to a digression.
+
+A lieutenant from the flag-ship came on board and piloted us into a
+snug berth, among the men-of-war, and close to the shore, where we
+were immediately surrounded by sampans, and pestered by pertinacious
+Chinese clambering on board. The donkey-engine, with well-rigged hose,
+soon, however, cleared the decks, bulwarks, and gangways, and we were
+not bothered any more.
+
+[Illustration: How we were boarded by Chinese and dispersed them.]
+
+After breakfast we landed on the Praya, a fine quay, extending the
+whole length of the town. On it are situated many of the large stores,
+offices, and markets of the city. The streets are wide and handsome,
+and the buildings in European style, with deep verandahs and arcades,
+all built of stone. The town is built on the side of a hill, with
+ferny, moss-covered banks, overhung by tropical trees, close to some
+of the principal offices. At the back are the mountains, the peak
+overhead, with the signal station on the top, always busily at work,
+making and answering signals with flags as ships and junks enter or
+leave the harbour. Soldiers and sailors abound in the streets; and if
+it were not for the sedan-chairs and palanquins, in which everybody is
+carried about by Chinese coolies with enormous hats, one might easily
+fancy oneself at dear old Gib., so much do these dependencies of the
+Crown in foreign countries resemble one another, even in such
+opposite quarters of the globe.
+
+We were very anxious to leave the yacht here and to go up to Canton;
+but we find there is no possible hotel at the latter place. This is
+rather unfortunate, as, after our long residence on board, and all the
+knocking about at sea, the yacht requires repairing and refitting. She
+looks very well painted white, and the change is a great comfort in
+hot weather; but white paint does not wear well, and in order to
+maintain her good looks she ought to receive a fresh coat at every
+port. We can only go up the Pearl River at the very top of the tide,
+for in several places there are not fourteen feet of water over the
+shoals. It will, therefore, take us two or three days to accomplish
+what the steamers do in six hours, and a great waste of time will be
+involved.
+
+To-day, for the first time, we have heard 'pidgin English' seriously
+spoken. It is very trying to one's composure to hear grave merchants,
+in their counting-houses, giving important orders to clerks and
+compradors in what sounds, until one gets accustomed to it, like the
+silliest of baby-talk. The term really means 'business English;' and
+certain it is that most Chinamen you meet understand it perfectly,
+though you might just as well talk Greek as ordinary English to them.
+'Take piecey missisy one piecey bag topside,' seems quite as difficult
+to understand as 'Take the lady's bag upstairs' would be; but it is
+easier to a Chinaman's intellect.
+
+From the Praya we went up the hill to write our names in the
+Governor's book. It was a beautiful road all the way, running between
+lovely gardens and beneath shady trees. Government House is a fine
+building, situated on a high point of land, commanding extensive views
+in every direction. After a pleasant chat we descended the hill again,
+and proceeded to the Hongkong hotel for tiffin. It does not seem a
+very desirable abode, being large, dirty, and ill-kept. At one
+o'clock a bell rang, and the visitors all rushed in and took their
+places at various little tables, and were served with a 'scrambly'
+sort of meal by Chinese boys.
+
+After this, a carriage was sent for us, and we drove to the
+race-course. This is the fourth and last day of the races, and there
+is to be a ball to-night to wind up with, to which everybody seems to
+be going. The drive was a very pleasant one, the road presenting a
+most animated appearance, with crowds of soldiers, sailors, Chinamen,
+Parsees, Jews, all hurrying along by the side of the numerous
+sedan-chairs and carriages. We were puzzled to imagine where, on this
+rocky, hilly island, there could possibly be found a piece of ground
+flat enough for a race-course. But the mystery was solved when we
+reached a lovely little valley, about two miles from the town, where
+we found a very fair course, about the size of that at Chester, but
+not so dangerous. The grand stand is a picturesque object, with its
+thatched roof, verandahs, and sun-blinds. The interior, too, looks
+comfortably arranged, and certainly contains the most luxurious
+basket-chairs one could possibly desire. There are a lawn and a
+paddock attached, and very good temporary stables, over many of which
+are private stands and tiffin-rooms.
+
+Hongkong races are a great event, and people come down from Canton,
+Shanghai, Macao, and all sorts of places for them. Everybody knows
+everybody, and it seems to be altogether a most pleasant social
+meeting. Many ladies were present. Some of the races were capital, the
+little Chinese ponies scuttling along at a great pace under their big
+riders, whose feet seemed almost to touch the ground. There was also a
+race for Australian horses. But the most amusing event of all was the
+last scramble for Chinese ponies ridden by Chinese boys, in which
+horses and riders seemed to be exactly suited to one another.
+
+The sun went down, and it grew cold and dark before all was over. The
+gentlemen walked back to the town, and I went down to the
+landing-place in solitary state, in a carriage driven by an Indian
+coachman, attended by a Chinese footman. I was immediately surrounded
+by a vociferating crowd, each individual member of which was anxious
+to extol the merits of his own sampan. The carriage having driven off,
+I was quite alone, and had some difficulty in dispersing them, and
+being allowed to enter the sampan I had selected. However, I did
+succeed at last, and making my boatmen understand that they were to
+take me to 'the white ship,' as the yacht is generally called,
+returned on board to rest.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+TO CANTON UP THE PEARL RIVER.
+
+    _Sails of silk and ropes of sandal_
+    _Such as gleam in ancient lore,_
+    _And the singing of the sailors,_
+    _And the answer from the shore._
+
+_Tuesday, February 27th_.--Until half-past ten we were occupied in the
+pleasant task of reading news from home--all good this time, I am
+happy to say. At 10.30 we landed and went up the hill to breakfast
+with Sir Arthur and Miss Kennedy, and heard a good deal about the
+colony. It is wonderful to think that thirty years ago it scarcely
+existed, and now it is a large and flourishing place, with splendid
+houses, institutions, roads, and gardens. We were also most agreeably
+surprised by the beauty of the scenery. It is really lovely, and,
+though the hills around are barren, wherever cultivation has been
+attempted, vegetation appears to flourish luxuriantly. The climate
+cannot be very bad, judging by the healthy look of the residents and
+troops. Typhoons seem to be the greatest drawback. They come without
+any warning, and it is impossible to guard against them and their
+disastrous effects. Thousands of lives, and millions of pounds' worth
+of property, are destroyed in a few hours. We have been shown some of
+the effects of a very severe typhoon that occurred in 1874. It seems
+almost incredible that the mere force of the wind can snap iron posts
+in two, break granite columns, and blow off heavy roofs.
+
+After breakfast the ceremony of presenting the departing Governor with
+a State umbrella took place. It was a token of respect from ten
+thousand Chinese inhabitants of Hongkong, and is the greatest
+compliment that can be paid to any official. It arrived in a large
+camphor-wood box, and the address, beautifully embroidered in gold
+thread and silk, was enclosed in a magnificent sandal-wood box about
+four feet long, covered with the richest carving. Precisely at twelve
+some forty vermilion-coloured visiting cards were handed in, with the
+name of each member of the deputation written in Chinese and English
+characters. The visitors were all received in a large drawing-room,
+whilst we ladies observed the proceedings through the doors leading
+from a smaller room. It is not considered etiquette by the Chinese for
+ladies to appear at these public ceremonies.
+
+[Illustration: Chinese Visiting Cards]
+
+After it was all over, a stroll through the town, and a look at the
+shops, filled up the rest of the time in the morning, until we went on
+board to fetch the children for an expedition up the Peak to the
+signal station. As usual many visitors came on board the yacht, and it
+was later than we had intended before we could make a start. I had to
+be carried up the steep ascent in a chair, but the children and dogs
+thoroughly enjoyed themselves scampering about. The little ones picked
+heaps of flowers and ferns. The dogs had not been allowed to land
+before, as everybody told me they would be sure to be stolen directly.
+We returned on board before sunset, and had time for a little rest
+before some friends arrived to dinner. We have shipped two Chinese
+boys here to work in the pantry and kitchen. They are excellent
+servants as a rule, but how they will get on with the others, and how
+they will like the sea-life, remains to be proved.
+
+_Wednesday, February 28th_.--I was up and off at half-past six to the
+market, and returned to a late breakfast on board; after which a large
+party of China merchants came as a deputation to invite Tom to fix a
+day to dine with them. I think they proposed to pay him what is for
+them an unusual compliment, partly because they were pleased with some
+remarks he made yesterday at Government House, and partly because they
+think so much of his enterprise in making a voyage round the world in
+a yacht with his wife and family. They examined everything on board,
+and seemed to be specially interested in Tom's Board of Trade
+certificate, which one of their number translated in full for the
+benefit of the rest.
+
+The Chinese part of the town stands quite away from the foreign
+settlement. It is dirty and crowded in spite of its wide streets, and
+the large, gaily coloured houses have the names and advertisements of
+their proprietors painted all across them. The theatre is in the
+middle of the city, and was densely crowded. A box had been reserved
+for us, for the ordinary seats are like a carpenter's bench. On the
+floor of the house men and women sat together, but in the galleries
+the men sat apart, and there were separate boxes for the women. The
+acting was rough, and accompanied by the most discordant music. The
+scenery seemed of an excessively rudimentary description, as you may
+imagine when I tell you that a steep hill up which the hero and
+heroine climbed with great difficulty was composed of five kitchen
+chairs arranged in a pyramid on the top of three kitchen tables, held
+in position by men in their ordinary dress. The fugitives were
+supposed to be a Tartar general and his wife, escaping from their
+enemies after a great battle. The fighting was renewed at intervals
+with great noise and spirit. Some of the costumes were very fine, and
+cost from 30_l_. to 40_l_. apiece.
+
+[Illustration: On the Pearl River.]
+
+From the theatre we drove to the Chinese hospital, and thence to the
+Chinese recreation ground, where we saw sundry itinerant quacks and
+vendors of all sorts of rubbish. As we were walking along, having left
+our chairs for a few minutes to look at the Chinese shops, a man
+picked my pocket of a one-dollar note. Mr. Freer and the Doctor saw,
+pursued, and caught him. He vehemently protested his innocence, but to
+no avail. They proceeded to strip him, found the note, gave him a good
+shaking, and told him to go.
+
+_Thursday, March 1st_.--A most lovely morning ushered in the new
+month, which having come in like the most peaceable of lambs, will, we
+hope, not end like a roaring lion just as we expect to be in the
+middle of the Bay of Bengal. We left the yacht at 7.30, and went on
+board the 'Kin-Shan,' which is a regular American river steamer with
+beam engines and many deck-houses, which are painted white. The lower
+deck is crowded with the most inferior class of Chinese, some eight
+hundred of them being on board. It gave us rather a turn to see them
+all padlocked in under the hatchways and iron gratings. At each
+opening is posted an armed sentinel, ready to fire among the crowd in
+case of any disturbance. In the saloon, also, is a stand of pistols,
+and rifles with fixed bayonets, ready for the European passengers to
+defend themselves with, in case of emergency. These are very necessary
+precautions, on account of the numerous pirates who occasionally ship
+in disguise among the crowd, murder the passengers and crew, and take
+possession of the steamer. Not quite two years ago a vessel belonging
+to this same company was assailed in that way. Every one on board was
+murdered, and the ship taken to Macao.[19] But this voyage was more
+prosperous, the captain was most kind and polite, and the boat clean
+and comfortable. An excellent breakfast and an elaborate tiffin were
+served at noon, all for the sum of four dollars a head, including
+wine, beer, and spirits _ad libitum_.
+
+[Footnote 19: I have since been told that only the captain and one or
+two passengers were killed, and the vessel run ashore near, not at
+Macao.]
+
+On first leaving Hankow the course lies between islands and through
+fine mountain passes. Later on the country becomes flat and
+uninteresting till the Bogue Forts are reached. Here are to be seen
+the remains of the old forts knocked down by the French and English
+guns.
+
+[Illustration: Bogue Forts.]
+
+About one o'clock we reached Whampoa, the leading port of Canton. The
+Pearl River is too shallow for large steamers to go up any higher; so
+we stopped here only a few minutes to disembark some of the Chinese
+passengers, and from this point the interesting part of the voyage
+began. The river, as well as all the little supplementary creeks, was
+alive with junks and sampans--masts and sails stuck up in every
+direction, gliding about among the flat paddy-fields. Such masts and
+sails as they are! The mandarins' boats, especially, are so
+beautifully carved, painted, and decorated, that they look more as if
+they were floating about for ornament than for use. Just about two
+o'clock our large steamer was brought up close alongside the wooden
+pier as easily as a skiff, but it must require some skill to navigate
+this crowded river without accident. On the shore was an excited,
+vociferating crowd, but no one came to meet us; and we had begun to
+wonder what was to become of us--what we should do, and whither we
+should go in a strange city, where we did not know a soul--when we
+were relieved from our embarrassment by the appearance of the
+Vice-Consul, who came on board to meet a friend. He told us that,
+owing to an expected ball, all the houses were unusually full, and
+that not one of the people who had been written to could take us in.
+This was rather bad news, but we felt sure that something would turn
+up.
+
+[Illustration: Chinese Pagoda and Boats.]
+
+We landed, and, after proceeding a short distance along the dirty
+street, came to a bridge with iron gates, which were thrown open by
+the sentry. After crossing a dirty stream we found ourselves in the
+foreign settlement--Shameen it is called--walking on nice turf, under
+the shade of fine trees. The houses of the merchants which line this
+promenade are all fine, handsome stone buildings, with deep verandahs.
+At the back there are compounds with kitchen gardens, and under the
+trees dairy cows are grazing. Every household appears to supply itself
+with garden and farm produce, and the whole scene has a most English,
+home-like appearance. We went first to the Vice-Consul, and then to
+the Jardine Hong. All the business houses retain the names of the
+firms to which they originally belonged, even when they have passed
+into entirely different hands. After a little chat we went on to the
+Deacon Hong, where we found they had just done tiffin, and where we
+met some old friends.
+
+By the kindness of various people, to whom we were introduced, we all
+found ourselves gradually installed in luxurious quarters. As for us,
+we had a large room comfortably furnished in English fashion, with a
+bath-room attached. All the houses are very much alike, and are fitted
+up in an equally comfortable style.
+
+About three o'clock we started in five chairs, with Man-look-Chin for
+our guide. Tom vigorously protested against not being allowed to use
+his own legs, but everybody assured him that it was impossible in the
+crowded streets of the city, so he had to submit to being carried. No
+Chinaman, except those employed by foreigners, is allowed to cross any
+of the bridges over the stream, which completely surrounds the foreign
+settlement, and makes the suburb of Shameen a perfect island. There
+are iron gates on each bridge, guarded by sentries. The contrast in
+the state of things presented by the two sides of the bridge is most
+marvellous. From the quiet country park, full of large villas and
+pretty gardens, you emerge into a filthy city, full of a seething,
+dirty population, and where smells and sights of the most disgusting
+description meet you at every turn. People who have seen many Chinese
+cities say that Canton is the cleanest of them all. What the dirtiest
+must be like is therefore beyond my imagination. The suburbs of the
+city, where all sorts of cheap eating-shops abound--where the butchers
+and fishmongers expose the most untempting-looking morsels for sale,
+and where there are hampers of all sorts of nasty-looking compounds,
+done up ready for the buyer of the smallest portion to take home--are
+especially revolting. The Chinese, however poor, like several courses
+to their meals, which are served in little bowls on a small table to
+each person, and eaten with chop-sticks, as in Japan. It is to gratify
+this taste that what we should think a very minute fish, or a tiny
+chicken, is cut up into half-a-dozen pieces and sold to several
+purchasers.
+
+The Chinese are very fond of fish, and are most ingenious in
+propagating, rearing, and keeping them. The dried-fish and seaweed
+shops are not at all picturesque or sweet-smelling, especially as all
+the refuse is thrown into the streets in front. Men go about the
+streets carrying pails of manure, suspended on bamboo poles across
+their shoulders, and clear away the rubbish as they go. I was very
+glad when we got through all this to the better part of the town, and
+found ourselves in a large shop, where it was cool, and dark, and
+quiet.
+
+The streets of the city are so narrow, that two chairs can scarcely
+pass one another, except at certain points. The roofs of the houses
+nearly meet across the roadway, and, in addition, the inhabitants
+frequently spread mats overhead, rendering the light below dim and
+mysterious. Every shop has a large vermilion-coloured board, with the
+name of its occupant written in Chinese characters, together with a
+list of the articles which he sells, hung out in front of it, so that
+the view down the narrow streets is very bright and peculiar. These
+highways and byways are not unlike the bazaars at Constantinople and
+Cairo, and different wares are also sold in different localities after
+the Eastern fashion. This is, in some respects, a great advantage, as,
+if you are in search of any particular article, you have almost an
+unlimited choice of whatever the town has to offer. But, on the other
+hand, if you want a variety of articles, it is an inconvenient
+arrangement, as you have to go all over the place to find them, and
+probably have to visit the most opposite quarters. We saw thousands of
+china vases, and bowls, and tea and dinner services, some very
+handsome, but many extremely poor. There were a few specially made for
+the French Exhibition next year, which were exceedingly handsome. We
+visited an ivory shop, and saw some splendid specimens of carving. One
+man had been for fifteen months employed in carving on one side of an
+enormous elephant's tusk the representation of a battle scene, and on
+the other that of a thanksgiving procession. It will take him at least
+another year to finish the job. It is for the Paris Exhibition. It
+will be quite interesting to look for our old Japanese and Chinese
+friends and their products on that occasion.
+
+From ivory carving, we went to a black-wood furniture shop, where we
+saw some very handsome things, by no means dear considering the amount
+of time and labour bestowed upon them. We finished up with the Temple
+of the Five Hundred Genii, whose five hundred carved wooden statues,
+thickly gilt, all very ugly, and all in different attitudes, stand
+round the statue of a European in sailor's costume, said to be meant
+for Marco Polo, but, whoever it may be, evidently considered an object
+at least of veneration, if not of worship.
+
+We now returned through the dirty city to Shameen, and the relief,
+after crossing the bridge into an open space where one could breathe
+freely and see the blue sky, was indescribable.
+
+_Friday, March 2nd_.--Before we had finished breakfast the other
+gentlemen strolled in from their various quarters, and the drivers and
+guides arrived from the Vice-Consul's. A long morning's work had been
+mapped out for us--thirteen sights before luncheon, then a visit to
+the French Consulate, followed by eight more objects of interest to be
+seen before we finally crossed the Pearl River to visit the Honan
+Temple. Quitting the pretty cool suburb by another bridge, we passed
+through streets quite as dirty as those of yesterday, until the heart
+of the city had been reached. We went first to the wedding-chair shop,
+where they keep sedan-chairs, of four qualities, for hire whenever a
+wedding occurs. Even the commonest are made gorgeous by silver gilding
+and lacquer, while the best are really marvels of decorative art,
+completely covered with the blue lustrous feathers of a kind of
+kingfisher. In shape they are like a square pagoda, and round each
+tier are groups of figures. The dresses are also made of expensive
+feathers, but then they last for generations. There are no windows to
+these strange conveyances, in which the bride is carried to her future
+home, closely shut up, with joss-sticks burning in front of her.
+Recently there have been two sad accidents. In one case the journey
+was long, there was no outlet for the smoke of the joss-sticks, and
+when they arrived and opened the chair, the bride was found dead from
+suffocation. The other accident occurred through the chair catching
+fire while it was passing through some narrow street under an archway.
+The bearers became frightened, put down their burden, and ran away,
+leaving the poor bride locked up inside to be burnt to death.
+
+From the chair shop we went to the embroiderers, to see them at work.
+Their productions are exquisite, and it is a pity that better
+specimens are not seen in England. The process of lacquer-making, too,
+is very interesting. We had, however, to go from house to house to
+witness it, as only one portion of the process is carried on at
+each--from the gradual coating of the roughest wood with three
+coatings of varnish, until it is finally ornamented with delicate
+designs, and polished ready for sale. In appearance, price, and length
+of wear there is a vast difference.
+
+The next thing to see was the weaving of silk, which is done in the
+most primitive manner. One man throws the shuttle, while another forms
+the pattern by jumping on the top of the loom and raising a certain
+number of threads, in order to allow the shuttle to pass beneath them.
+
+Then came a visit to the Temple of Longevity, a large Buddhist temple,
+with a monastic establishment of about ninety priests attached to it.
+It contains three shrines with large figures, but nothing specially
+interesting. There is a large pond in the midst of the garden, covered
+with duckweed, and full of beautiful gold and silver fish of many
+kinds. The Chinese certainly excel in producing gold and silver and
+red fish; they are the pets of every household, and are of all
+colours, some being striped and spotted, and boasting any number of
+tails from one to five.
+
+Outside the temple stands the Jadestone Market, where incredible
+quantities of this valuable stone change hands before ten o'clock
+every morning, both in its rough and its polished state. The stalls
+are the simplest wooden stands, and the appearance of the vendors is
+poor in the extreme. The contents of the stalls, however, are worth
+from 500_l_. to l,000_l_. (not dollars), and there are hundreds of
+these stalls, besides an entire jadestone street which we afterwards
+visited. We saw several of the shops, and asked the prices, as we
+wished to take home a small specimen; but they had no good carved
+cups, which were what we wanted, and for what they had they asked an
+enormous price. Jadestone is a material very difficult to work, and in
+many cases the result attained is not worth the labour expended upon
+it. It is more a _tour de force_ than a work of art. For a good stone,
+green as grass (as it ought to be), they ask from 2,500 to 3,000
+dollars; for a necklace of beads, 5,000 dollars; a set of mandarin's
+buttons, one large and one small, 50 to 150 dollars.
+
+After looking in at the goldbeaters at work, we next made our way to
+the temple of the Five Genii who are supposed to have founded the city
+of Canton. Being a Tartar temple, all the gods have a totally
+different cast of features, and are represented as Tartars with long
+beards. It is much frequented by women of all classes, and up and down
+the numerous flights of steps leading from one shrine to another, poor
+little women tottered and tumbled on their crippled feet, holding on
+to one another, or leaning on a stick. This temple is interesting as
+having been the head-quarters of the allied forces during their
+occupation of Canton from 1858 to 1861. The great bell in front of its
+principal shrine has been broken by a shot.
+
+We then went to see the Flowery Pagoda, built A.D. 512, but now
+deprived of many of its decorations. The Brilliant Pagoda too, so
+called from having once been covered with snow-white porcelain, is now
+only a tall brick-pointed tower nine stories high.
+
+By this time we all felt hungry, and began to wend our way towards the
+_yamun_. On the outskirts may be seen prisoners in chains, or wearing
+the _cangue_, imprisoned in a cage, or else suffering one of the
+numerous tortures inflicted in this country. I did not go to see any
+of these horrors, neither did I visit the execution ground; but some
+of the party did, and described it as a most horrible sight. Skulls
+were lying about in all directions, one of which had been quite
+recently severed from its trunk, the ground being still moist and red.
+
+Whilst luncheon was being prepared we were taken over many of the
+rooms and through several of the enclosures within the fortified gate.
+The meal was excellently served by Chinese servants in a charmingly
+picturesque Tartar room, and after it we wandered about the park,
+looked at the deer, and admired the Nagasaki bantams. Then it was time
+to start on a fresh sight-seeing expedition, armed with fresh
+directions. We set out first to the Temple of the Sleeping Buddha,
+where there is a large, fat, reclining figure; then to the Temple of
+Horrors--most rightly named, for in a suite of rooms built round three
+sides of a large yard are represented all the tortures of the Buddhist
+faith, such as boiling in oil, sawing in pieces, and other horrible
+devices. The yard itself is crowded with fortune-tellers,
+charm-sellers, deputy prayer-sayers, beggars, and all sorts of natural
+horrors, exhibiting various deformities. Altogether it is a most
+unpleasant place, but still it is one of the characteristic sights of
+Canton.
+
+We saw the hotel to-day for the first time. It certainly looks very
+hopeless. We were anxious to get in there if possible, as we were such
+a large party, but everybody assured us it was quite out of the
+question. One gentleman told me he never could fancy using his
+portmanteau again after even laying it down on the floor for a few
+minutes. The absence of a decent hotel renders Canton an inconvenient
+place to visit. The European inhabitants are so very kind, however,
+that you are sure to find somebody who knows somebody else who will
+hospitably take you in.
+
+[Illustration: The French Consulate, Canton.]
+
+From the Temple of the Sleeping Buddha we went up the height to
+breathe a little fresh air, and to see the five-storied pagoda at the
+spot where the allied forces had encamped, the Chinese groves in the
+White Cloud Mountains beyond, and to gain a general view of the
+densely crowded city beneath. It is all too flat, however, to be
+picturesque. The three _yamuns_ at our feet, with their quaint towers,
+grand old trees, flags, and the broad Pearl River on the other side of
+the city, are the only elements of positive beauty in the landscape.
+
+We soon descended the heights again, and, passing the Cantonese
+Viceroy's _yamuns_ paid our promised visit to the French Consul. His
+residence is, if possible, more quaint and beautiful than that of the
+English representative. The trees are finer, especially one grand
+avenue leading from the outer gates to the private apartments. We were
+most kindly received, and shown a wonderful collection of embroideries
+and china. It was a delightful visit, but we could not remain so long
+as we wished, for we had to see the water clock. The tower in which it
+stands is approached by a flight of steps, and was built between the
+years A.D. 624 and 907; but it has been repaired, destroyed, and
+repaired again, several times, having suffered in the bombardment of
+the town by the allied fleets in 1857.
+
+In the next street, Treasury Street (said to be the finest in Canton),
+you can buy burning-sticks measured to mark the time. They are
+extremely cheap, but perfectly accurate, and there seems little doubt
+that they have been used by the Chinese for thousands of years before
+the Christian era. Here, too, were the large spectacles so much worn;
+opium pipes, with all the paraphernalia for cleaning and smoking them;
+water pipes in pretty little shagreen cases, and many other curious
+articles in common use, of which we purchased specimens.
+
+In the Feather Street are innumerable shops containing nothing but
+feathers of all kinds for mandarins, actors, and ordinary mortals; but
+the great ambition of every Chinaman is to have a feather from the
+Emperor. They are all called peacocks' feathers, one-eyed, two-eyed,
+or three-eyed; but, in reality, many are pheasants' feathers. Some of
+these are from six to eight feet in length, beautifully marked. I
+bought two pairs over seven feet long. They are rather rare, as each
+bird has only two long feathers, and these are in perfection for but
+one month in the year. In this part of the town stands a Chinese
+restaurant where only cats' and dogs' flesh is served.
+
+We passed through innumerable streets, and at last reached the site of
+the old factories, now only occupied by a large and comfortable
+house. We were to have embarked in the Consul's boat to visit the
+Temple of Honan across the river, but it was getting late, and every
+one felt tired; so we went back through more crowded streets to rest
+awhile, before dressing to go out to dinner at eight o'clock. The
+dinner was quite English in its style, and the table looked bright
+with tea roses, heliotrope, and mignonette. The tables had been
+charmingly decorated by the Chinese servants, and even the _menu_ had
+been arranged by them. They seem to save their employer all trouble,
+even that of thinking, provided the services of really good ones can
+be secured. We have had one for only a few days, and he does
+everything for Tom and me. He appears to know exactly what we want to
+do or to wear, and to foresee all our requirements.
+
+But to return to this famous repast. It began with mandarin
+bird's-nest soup, with plover's eggs floating about in it. This is a
+most delicious and dainty dish, and is invariably given to strangers
+on their first arrival. I had no idea how expensive the nests were--54
+dollars a 'pice,' weighing something under a pound, and it takes two
+or three ounces to make enough soup for ten people. We had a very
+pleasant evening, talking over our experiences, and exchanging news as
+to our mutual friends.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+CANTON AND MACAO TO SINGAPORE.
+
+    _I remember the black wharves and the slips,_
+      _And the sea-tides tossing free;_
+    _And Spanish sailors with bearded lips,_
+    _And the beauty and mystery of the ship_
+      _And the magic of the sea._
+
+_Saturday, March 3rd_.--After our long day yesterday, I did not feel
+capable of acceding to our guide's proposition of being ready at
+half-past six for further explorations before breakfast; besides, I
+wanted to see Tom off by the nine o'clock boat to Hongkong, whither he
+is obliged to return in order to keep various engagements. The rest of
+our party have been persuaded to stay and see a little more of Canton
+and to go with some friends to a picnic in the White Cloud Mountains.
+A man brought home to-day some carved tortoiseshell brushes Tom has
+given me, with my name carved on them in Chinese. It was no good
+writing it down for the engraver's guidance, and after hearing it
+several times he wrote down two characters; but, as the 'r' is always
+a great difficulty with the Chinese, I much doubt whether the name is
+really spelt rightly.
+
+It was a most lovely day, and after some little delay we started about
+eleven o'clock, a party of seventeen in chairs. There were five ladies
+and twelve gentlemen--a most unusual proportion for Canton. A few
+weeks ago they wanted to get up a fancy ball, but there were only five
+available ladies to be found in the city. At present one or two more
+are staying here on a visit, and it is hoped that another ball may be
+arranged during this week, which may boast of at least ten ladies. We
+made quite a procession, with all the servants, bearers, &c., and
+excited much commotion in the narrow streets, where everybody had to
+make room and squeeze up to the side as best they could. Men ran
+before to clear the way for us, shouting, yet we were more than an
+hour going right across the city. On our way we passed through the egg
+market, saw the pork fat market, and the poulterers' and fowlers'
+shops.
+
+We managed to visit several shops for the sale of real Chinese
+furniture. It is very handsome, but curious in form, and, unless it is
+specially ordered, is made only for native use. Every Chinese
+reception-room is furnished in precisely the same manner, with very
+stiff high arm-chairs, arranged in two rows. A small four-legged
+square table stands between every two chairs, a larger table in the
+centre, and at the end an enormous sofa, big enough for six or eight
+people to lie full length across. The sofa and all the chairs have
+marble seats and backs, and the tops of the tables are also made of
+marble, or a sort of soapstone, on which may be distinguished natural
+landscapes slightly assisted by art.
+
+In the bird market I saw numbers of little birds for sale, for the
+Chinese are very fond of pets, and often take their birds out in a
+cage with them when they go for a walk, just as we should be
+accompanied by a dog. They manage to tame them thoroughly, and when
+they meet a friend they will put the cage down, let the bird out, and
+give him something to eat while they have their chat. I saw this done
+several times.
+
+Our road next led us through part of the butchers' quarter, where rats
+were hung up by their tails, and what looked very like skinned cats
+and dogs dangled beside them. Whole cages full of these animals were
+exposed for sale alive. Some travellers deny that the Chinese eat cats
+and dogs and rats, but there can be no question that they do so,
+though they may be the food only of the lower classes. Nor do 'puppy
+dogs' appear on the tables of the rich, except on one particular day
+in the year, when to eat them is supposed to bring good luck. We
+passed a restaurant where I was shown the bill of fare in Chinese of
+which this is a translation:--
+
+BILL OF FARE FOR THE DAY.
+
+One tael of black dog's flesh          eight cash.
+One tael weight of black dog's fat     three kandareems of silver.
+One large basin of black cat's flesh   one hundred cash.
+One small basin of black cat's flesh   fifty cash.
+One large bottle of common wine        thirty-two cash.
+One small bottle of common wine        sixteen cash.
+One large bottle of dark rice wine     sixty-eight cash.
+One small basin of cat's flesh         thirty-four cash.
+One large bottle of plum wine          sixty-eight cash.
+One small bottle of plum wine          thirty-four cash.
+One large basin of dog's flesh         sixty-eight cash.
+One small bottle of pear wine          thirty-four cash.
+One large bottle of timtsin wine       ninety-six cash.
+One small bottle of timtsin wine       forty-eight cash.
+One basin of congee                    three cash.
+One small plate of pickles             three cash.
+One small saucer of ketchup or vinegar three cash.
+One pair of black cat's eyes           three kandareems of silver.
+
+The fish here, as at Hongkong, are almost always kept alive in large
+tubs of water, with a fountain playing over them. They even keep some
+sea-fish alive in salt water. But it is in the north of China that
+they excel in rearing fish in large quantities. At Foo-chow cormorant
+fishing may be seen to great perfection, and it is said to be a very
+amusing sight.
+
+At last the city gates were reached, and we once more found ourselves
+outside the walls, and able to breathe again. Here a halt was made,
+and several of the party got out of their chairs and walked, and we
+were able to chat, whilst we wended our way by a narrow path through
+nursery gardens and graveyards. In fact the whole of the White Cloud
+Mountain is one vast cemetery--it is the Chinese Holy of Holies,
+whither their bodies are sent, not only from all parts of China, but
+from all parts of the world. Frequently a shipload of 1,500 or 1,600
+bodies arrives in one day. The Steamboat Company charges 40 dollars
+for the passage of a really live Chinaman, as against 160 dollars for
+the carriage of a dead celestial. The friends of the deceased often
+keep the bodies in coffins above ground for several years, until the
+priests announce that they have discovered a lucky day and a lucky
+spot for the interment. This does not generally happen until he--the
+priest--finds he can extract no more money by divination, and that no
+more funeral feasts will be given by the friends. We passed through
+what they call the city of the dead, where thousands of coffins
+waiting for interment were lying above ground. The coffins are large
+and massive, but very plain, resembling the hollowed-out trunk of a
+tree. The greatest compliment a Chinese can pay his older relatives is
+to make them a present of four handsome longevity boards for their
+coffins. Outside the city of the dead were the usual adjuncts of a
+large burying-place--coffin-makers and stone-carvers, all living in
+dirty little cottages, surrounded by pigs, ducks, and young children.
+
+Leaving the cemetery and cottages behind, a too short drive brought us
+to a lovely valley, where we were to lunch at the temple of San Chew,
+in one of its fairest gorges. The meal was spread in a large hall in a
+most luxurious manner, and as the wind changed almost immediately, and
+it came on to rain, we felt ourselves fortunate indeed in having
+reached shelter. We had plenty of wraps, and the bearers ran us down
+the hill again very quickly, so that we suffered no discomfort.
+
+By the time the city walls were reached, the rain had ceased, and a
+glorious red sunset glowed over the roofs, glinting through the holes
+in the mats, and lighting up all the vermilion boards and gold
+characters with which the houses and shops are decorated. The shadowy
+streets were now full of incense or rather joss-stick smoke, for
+every house and every shop has a large altar inside, and a small one
+without, before which joss-sticks are burnt more or less all day long.
+
+The streets seemed more crowded even than usual. Each of our bearers
+struck out a line of his own, and it was not until we reached Shameen
+that we all met again. Some of the ladies had been rather frightened
+at finding themselves alone in the dark, crowded city. We were only
+just in time to dress and go to dinner, after which we examined an
+interesting collection, chiefly of coins, in process of formation for
+the French Exhibition. They are carefully arranged, and will be most
+valuable and interesting when complete. The knife-and-fork coins are
+particularly curious and rare, some of them being worth as much as
+5,000 dollars each, as curiosities. All the coins have holes in the
+centre for convenience of carriage.
+
+_Sunday, March 4th_.--There is a fine cathedral at Shameen, in which
+the services are beautifully performed. A lady kindly lent us her
+house-boat, and after service we rowed across to Fa-ti, to see the
+gardens of Canton. They are laid out on an island a very short way up
+the river. The gardens are very wonderful, and contain plants cut into
+all sorts of shapes, such as men, birds, beasts, fishes, boats,
+houses, furniture, &c. Some are full-sized, others only in miniature.
+But almost all must have required considerable time and patience to
+reach their present growth, for their ages vary from 10 to 150 years.
+There are other plants not so elaborately trained, but the effect of
+the whole is rather too formal to be pretty. I managed to bring home
+some euphorbias, cut into the form of junks, and some banyan trees,
+one 100 and one 50 years old. I believe they are the first that have
+ever reached England alive and have flourished. Not far from Fa-ti are
+the duck-hatching establishments, and still further up the river are
+the duck-sampans, where the crowds of ducks are reared. They are sent
+out every morning to get their own living and return at night. Until
+they learn to obey their keeper's call quickly the last duck is always
+whipped. I am told it is most ridiculous to see the hurry of the last
+half-dozen birds of a flock of some thousands of ducks. I was most
+anxious to see them, but it is not the right time of year now. The
+young ducks are only just beginning to hatch, and the old ones are not
+numerous, and are mostly laying.
+
+There was no time to go and see the temple of Honan, for we were more
+anxious to avail ourselves of a chance of visiting some interesting
+places in the Chinese city. We went through a street, consisting
+entirely of fruiterers' shops, to which the name of Kwohlaorn, or
+fruit-market, is applied. In this market, which is of great extent,
+there is for sale at all seasons of the year an almost countless
+variety of fruit.
+
+A silkworm establishment was pointed out to us in the distance, but we
+did not go over it, as we had seen many before, and it is not the best
+season of the year. The silkworms are most carefully tended, the
+people who look after them being obliged to change their clothes
+before entering the rooms where they are kept, and to perform all
+sorts of superstitious ceremonies at every stage of the insect's
+growth. No one at all ailing or deformed is allowed to approach a
+building where they are kept. The worms are supposed to be very
+nervous, and are guarded from everything that can possibly frighten
+them, as well as from all changes of temperature or disturbances of
+the atmosphere. Thunder and lightning they are supposed specially to
+dread, and great pains are taken to shelter them by artificial means,
+and keep them from all knowledge of the storm.
+
+The next place we visited was a bird's-nest-soup-shop street, where we
+went into one of the best and most extensive establishments. There
+were three or four well-dressed assistants behind the counter, all
+busily occupied in sorting and packing birds' nests. Some of the best
+were as white as snow, and were worth two dollars each, while a light
+brown one was worth only one dollar, and the black dirty ones, full of
+feathers and moss, could be purchased at the rate of a quarter dollar.
+
+Certainly the Chinese seem an exception to the rule laid down by some
+writers, that no people can flourish who do not rest every seventh
+day. In many ways they are an abnormal people, one striking point in
+their condition being the state of dirt and filth in which they not
+only exist, but increase and multiply. The children look healthy and
+happy too, in spite of these apparent drawbacks, and notwithstanding
+the fact that in many cases their poor little feet must be cruelly
+tortured by the practice of bandaging them tightly to make them small.
+
+When we got back to Shameen there was time for a stroll along the
+Bund. It is very pleasant, for the river runs close under the parapet,
+and its surface is always covered with junks, sampans, and boats and
+ships, going swiftly up or down with the strong tide. The walk is
+shaded with trees, and seats stand at intervals all along it.
+
+An agreeable saunter was followed by a quiet, pleasant little dinner,
+and though we have been here only a few days we feel quite sorry that
+this is to be our last night in Canton, so kind has everybody been to
+us.
+
+[Illustration: Chinese Foot and boot.]
+
+_Monday, March 5th_.--I was awake and writing from half-past four this
+morning, but before I got up, a woman who comes here every day to work
+brought me some small ordinary shoes which I had purchased as
+curiosities, and took the opportunity of showing me her feet. It
+really made me shudder to look at them, so deformed and cramped up
+were they, and, as far as I could make out, she must have suffered
+greatly in the process of reducing them to their present diminutive
+size. She took off her own shoes and tottered about the room in those
+she had brought, and then asked me to show her one of mine. Having
+most minutely examined it, she observed, with a melancholy shake of
+the head, 'Missisy foot much more good, do much walky, walky; mine
+much bad, no good for walky.'
+
+Having said farewell to our kind hostess, we went off in the
+house-boat to the steamer. There was a great crowd on the lower
+deck--at least 900 Chinamen--to struggle through in order to reach the
+European quarters. We found other friends on board, who had come to
+see us off.
+
+A few minutes before nine o'clock the bell rang as a signal for our
+friends' departure, and we steamed ahead, among such a crowd of
+sampans and junks that it was more like moving through a town than
+along a river. No accident, however, occurred, though one junk and one
+sampan had the very narrowest escape.
+
+The voyage down took much longer than our voyage up, on account of the
+tide being against us, and in consequence we did not reach Hongkong
+until 3.30 p.m., when the gig with the children was soon alongside. We
+got off as soon as we could, for we expected some friends to afternoon
+tea on board the yacht. There was just time to dress before the first
+visitors arrived, and by half-past six at least two hundred had come.
+At one time quite a flotilla of boats lay around us, looking very
+pretty with all their flags flying. I think the people enjoyed it very
+much as something new, and we only wanted a band to enliven the
+proceedings.
+
+_Tuesday, March 6th_.--The little girls and I went ashore at 7.30, to
+collect all our purchases with the help of a friend. We glanced at the
+museum too, which contains some curious specimens of Chinese and
+Japanese arms and armour, and the various productions of the two
+countries, besides many strange things from the Philippine and other
+islands. I was specially interested in the corals and shells. There
+were splendid conch shells from Manilla, and a magnificent group of
+Venus flower-baskets, dredged from some enormous depth near Manilla.
+There were also good specimens of reptiles of all sorts, and of the
+carved birds' heads for which Canton is famous. They look very like
+amber, and are quite as transparent, being carved to a great depth. I
+believe the bird is a kind of toucan or hornbill, but the people here
+call it a crane.
+
+It was now time to say good-bye to Hongkong and to our kind friends,
+for we had to go on board the 'Flying Cloud,' which starts for Macao
+at two o'clock precisely, and our passages had been taken in her. Tom
+could not go with us, as he had fixed to-night for the dinner at which
+the Chinese gentlemen proposed to entertain him; but he came to see us
+off. We went out of the harbour by a different way, and passed along a
+different side of the island of Hongkong, but the scenery was not
+particularly interesting. Off Choolong a heavy ground-swell, called
+'Pon choughai,' made us roll about most unpleasantly. In bad weather,
+or with a top-heavy ship, this passage could not be attempted.
+Sometimes there are very heavy fogs, and always strong currents, so
+that the short voyage of forty-two miles is not absolutely free from
+danger.
+
+The town of Macao is situated on a peninsula at the end of the island
+of the same name. It was the first foreign settlement in China
+belonging to the Portuguese, and was once a fine, handsome town, with
+splendid buildings. Unfortunately Macao lies in the track of the
+typhoons, which at times sweep over it with a resistless force,
+shattering and smashing everything in their career. These constantly
+recurring storms, and the establishment of other ports, have resulted
+in driving many people away from the place, and the abolition of the
+coolie traffic has also tended to diminish the number of traders. Now
+the town has a desolate, deserted appearance, and the principal
+revenue of the government is derived from the numerous
+gambling-houses.
+
+We landed at the pier soon after five o'clock, and were carried
+across the peninsula through the town to the Praya on the other side.
+Here we found a large unoccupied mansion, situated in a garden
+overlooking the sea, and, having delivered our Chinese letters, were
+received with the greatest civility and attention by the comprador and
+the servants who had been left in charge of our friend's house. The
+rooms upstairs, to which we were at once shown, were lofty and
+spacious, opening into a big verandah. Each room had a mosquito room
+inside it, made of wire gauze and wood, like a gigantic meat-safe, and
+capable of containing, besides a large double bed, a chair and a
+table, so that its occupant is in a position to read and write in
+peace, even after dark. This was the first time we had seen one of
+these contrivances. By the direction of the comprador the house chairs
+were prepared, and coolies were provided to take us for an expedition
+round the town, while our things were being unpacked, and the
+necessary arrangements made for our comfort. Macao is a thoroughly
+Portuguese-looking town, the houses being painted blue, green, red,
+yellow, and all sorts of colours. It is well garrisoned, and one meets
+soldiers in every direction. We passed the fort, and went up to the
+lighthouse, which commands a fine view over land and sea; returning
+home by a different way through the town again, which we entered just
+as the cathedral bell and the bells of all the churches were pealing
+the Ave Maria. On our return we found a fire lighted and everything
+illuminated, and by half-past eight we had a capital impromptu dinner
+served. Chinese Tommy, who waited on us, had decorated the table most
+tastefully with flowers. Macao is a favourite resort for the European
+residents of Hongkong who are addicted to gambling. The gentlemen of
+our party went to observe the proceedings, but to-night there were
+only a few natives playing at fan-tan--a game which, though a great
+favourite with the natives, appears very stupid to a European. The
+croupier takes a handful of copper cash and throws it upon the table;
+he then with chop-sticks counts the coins by fours, the betting being
+upon the possible number of the remainder. It takes a long time to
+count a big handful, and you have only one, two, three, or four to
+back--no colours or combinations, as at _rouge-et-noir_, or
+_trente-et-quarante_.
+
+At Macao the sleep-disturbing watchmen, unlike those of Canton, come
+round every hour and beat two sharp taps on a drum at intervals of
+half a minute, compelling you to listen against your will, until the
+sound dies away in the distance for a brief interval.
+
+_Wednesday, March 7th_.--We started soon after ten o'clock on another
+exploring expedition, going first in chairs through the town, and
+across the peninsula to where we left the steamer yesterday. Here we
+embarked--chairs, bearers, and all, in a junk, evidently cleaned up
+for the occasion, for it was in beautiful order, and mats were spread
+under an awning upon deck.
+
+All along beneath the deck was a cabin, between two and three feet
+high, which contained the altar, the kitchen, and the sleeping and
+living apartments of the family. There was also a dear little baby,
+two months old, which seemed to take life very quietly, while its
+mother assisted its grandfather to row.
+
+We soon reached the island of Chock-Sing-Toon, and disembarked at a
+small pier near a village, which looked more like sampans pulled up on
+the shore than huts or cottages. The children and I rode in chairs,
+while the gentlemen walked, first over a plain covered with scrubby
+palms, then through miles of well-cultivated plots of vegetable
+ground, till we reached a temple, built at the entrance to the valley
+for which we were bound. Thence the path wound beside the stream
+flowing from the mountains above, and the vegetation became extremely
+luxuriant and beautiful. Presently we came to a spot where a stone
+bridge spanned the torrent, with a temple on one side and a
+joss-house on the other. It was apparently a particularly holy place,
+for our men had all brought quantities of joss-sticks and sacred paper
+with them to burn. There was a sort of eating-house close by, where
+they remained whilst we climbed higher up to get a view. The path was
+well made, and evidently much used, judging from the large number of
+natural temples we found adapted and decorated among the rocks. As
+usual, our descent was a comparatively quick affair, and we soon found
+ourselves on board the junk on our way back to Macao, beating across
+the harbour.
+
+Just before tiffin the yacht made her appearance, causing great
+excitement in the minds of the natives. The gig was soon lowered and
+came as close as she could. There was not water enough for her to come
+within four miles of the shore, but we went out to meet her occupants.
+Tom, who was one of them, looked so ill and miserable that I felt
+quite alarmed for a few minutes, till the doctor comforted me by
+assurances that it was only the effect of the Chinese dinner last
+night--an explanation I had no difficulty in accepting as the correct
+one after perusing the bill of fare. In their desire to do him honour,
+and to give him pleasure, his hosts had provided the rarest
+delicacies, and of course he felt obliged to taste them all. Some of
+the dishes were excellent, but many of them were rather trying to a
+European digestion, especially the fungus and lichen. One sort had
+been grown on ice in the Antarctic Sea, the whale's sinews came from
+the Arctic Ocean, the shark's fins from the South Sea Islands, and the
+birds' nests were of a quality to be found only in one particular cave
+in one particular island. To drink, they had champagne in English
+glasses, and arrack in Chinese glasses. The whole dinner was eaten
+with chop-sticks, though spoons were allowed for the soup. After
+dinner there were some good speeches, the chief host expressing his
+deep regret that their manners and customs did not permit them to ask
+ladies, as they were particularly anxious to invite me, and had only
+abandoned the idea of doing so after considerable discussion. I append
+the bill of fare:--
+
+
+_March_ 6, 1877.
+
+BILL OF FARE.
+
+4 _courses of small bowls, one to each guest, viz_.--
+
+   Bird's-nest Soup
+   Pigeon's Eggs
+   Ice Fungus (said to grow in ice)
+   Shark's Fins (chopped)
+
+8 _large bowls, viz_.--
+
+   Stewed Shark's Fins
+   Fine Shell Fish
+   Mandarin Bird's Nest
+   Canton Fish Maw
+   Fish Brain
+   Meat Balls with Rock Fungus
+   Pigeons stewed with Wai Shan (a strengthening herb)
+   Stewed Mushroom
+
+4 _dishes, viz_.--
+
+   Sliced Ham
+   Roast Mutton
+   Fowls
+   Roast Sucking Pig
+
+1 _large dish, viz_.--
+
+   Boiled Rock Fish
+
+8 _small bowls, viz_.--
+
+   Stewed Pig's Palate
+   Minced Quails
+   Stewed Fungus (another description)
+   Sinews of the Whale Fish
+   Rolled Roast Fowl
+   Sliced Teals
+   Stewed Duck's Paw
+   Peas stewed
+
+We went all round the town, and then to see the ruins of the
+cathedral, and the traces of the destruction caused by the typhoon in
+1874. Next we paid a visit to the garden of Camoens, where he wrote
+his poems in exile.[20] The garden now belongs to a most courteous old
+Portuguese, with whom I managed, by the aid of a mixture of Spanish
+and French, to hold a conversation. The place where Camoens' monument
+is erected commands, however, an extensive prospect, but we had
+already seen it, and as Tom was anxious to get clear of the islands
+before dark we were obliged to hasten away.
+
+[Footnote 20: Luiz de Camoens, a celebrated Portuguese poet, born
+about 1520; fought against the Moors, and in India; but was often in
+trouble, and was frequently banished or imprisoned. During his exile
+in Macao he wrote his great poem 'The Lusiads,' in which he celebrates
+the principal events in Portuguese history.]
+
+On reaching the yacht, after some delay in embarking, we slipped our
+anchor as quickly as possible, and soon found ourselves in a nasty
+rolling sea, which sent me to bed at once. Poor Tom, though he felt so
+ill that he could hardly hold his head up, was, however, obliged to
+remain on deck watching until nearly daylight; for rocks and islands
+abound in these seas, and no one on board could undertake the pilotage
+except himself.
+
+_Thursday, March 8th_.--When I went on deck at half-past six o'clock
+there was nothing to be seen but a leaden sky, a cold grey rolling
+sea, and two fishing junks in the far distance, nor did the weather
+improve all day.
+
+_Friday, March 9th_.--Everybody began to settle down to the usual sea
+occupations. There was a general hair-cutting all round, one of the
+sailors being a capital barber, and there is never time to attend to
+this matter when ashore. The wind was high and baffling all day. At
+night the Great Bear and the Southern Cross shone out with rivalling
+brilliancy: 'On either hand an old friend and a new.'
+
+_Saturday, March 10th_.--A fine day, with a light fair breeze. Passed
+the island of Hainan, belonging to China, situated at the entrance of
+the Gulf of Tonquin, which, though very barren-looking, supports a
+population of 150,000.
+
+Repacked the curiosities and purchases from Canton and Hongkong, and
+made up our accounts.
+
+About noon we passed a tall bamboo sticking straight up out of the
+water, and wondered if it were the topmast of some unfortunate junk
+sunk on the Paranella Shoal. There were many flying-fish about, and
+the sunset was lovely.
+
+_Sunday, March 11th_.--We feel that we are going south rapidly, for
+the heat increases day by day. The services were held on deck at
+eleven and four.
+
+About five o'clock I heard cries of 'A turtle on the starboard bow,'
+'A wreck on the starboard bow.' I rushed out to see what it was, and
+the men climbed into the rigging to obtain a better view of the
+object. It proved to be a large piece of wood, partially submerged,
+apparently about twenty or thirty feet long. The exposed part was
+covered with barnacles and seaweed, and there was a large iron ring
+attached to one end. We were sailing too fast to stop, or I should
+have liked to have sent a boat to examine this 'relic of the sea' more
+closely. These waifs and strays always set me thinking and wondering,
+and speculating as to what they were originally, whence they came, and
+all about them, till Tom declares I weave a complete legend for every
+bit of wood we meet floating about.
+
+_Tuesday, March 13th_.--About 2.30 a.m. the main peak halyards were
+carried away. Soon after we gybed, and for two or three hours knocked
+about in the most unpleasant manner. At daybreak we made the island of
+Pulu Lapata, or Shoe Island, situated on the coast of Cochin China,
+looking snowy white in the early morning light.
+
+The day was certainly warm, though we were gliding on steadily and
+pleasantly before the north-east monsoon.
+
+_Wednesday, March 14th_.--The monsoon sends us along at the rate of
+from six to seven knots an hour, without the slightest trouble or
+inconvenience. There is an unexpected current, though, which sets us
+about twenty-five miles daily to the westward, notwithstanding the
+fact that a 'southerly current' is marked on the chart.
+
+_March 16th_.--There was a general scribble going on all over the
+ship, in preparation for the post to-morrow, as we hope to make
+Singapore to-night, or very early in the morning. About noon Pulo Aor
+was seen on our starboard bow. In the afternoon, being so near the
+Straits, the funnel was raised and steam got up. At midnight we made
+the Homburgh Light, and shortly afterwards passed a large steamer
+steering north. It was a glorious night, though very hot below, and I
+spent most of it on deck with Tom, observing the land as we slowly
+steamed ahead half speed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+
+SINGAPORE.
+
+    _Betwixt them lawns, or level downs, and flocks_
+    _Grazing the tender herb, were interpos'd,_
+    _Or palmy hillock, or the flow'ry lap_
+    _Of some irriguous valley spread her store,_
+    _Flowers of all hues, and without thorn the rose._
+
+_Saturday, March 17th_.--We were off Singapore during the night. At 5
+a.m. the pilot came on board and took us into Tangong Pagar to coal
+alongside the wharf. We left the ship as soon as possible, and in
+about an hour we had taken forty-three tons of coal on board and
+nearly twenty tons of water. The work was rapidly performed by
+coolies. It was a great disappointment to be told by the
+harbour-master that the Governor of the Straits Settlement and Lady
+Jervoise were to leave at eleven o'clock for Johore. We determined to
+go straight to the Government House and make a morning call at the
+unearthly hour of 8 a.m. The drive from the wharf was full of beauty,
+novelty, and interest. We had not landed so near the line before, and
+the most tropical of tropical plants, trees, flowers, and ferns, were
+here to be seen, growing by the roadside on every bank and dust-heap.
+
+The natives, Malays, are a fine-looking, copper-coloured race, wearing
+bright-coloured sarongs and turbans. There are many Indians, too, from
+Madras, almost black, and swathed in the most graceful white muslin
+garments, when they are not too hard at work to wear anything at all.
+The young women are very good-looking. They wear not only one but
+several rings, and metal ornaments in their noses, and a profusion of
+metal bangles on their arms and legs, which jingle and jangle as they
+move.
+
+The town of Singapore itself is not imposing, its streets, or rather
+roads of wooden huts and stone houses, being mixed together
+indiscriminately. Government House is on the outskirts of the city in
+the midst of a beautiful park which is kept in excellent order, the
+green turf being closely mown and dotted with tropical trees and
+bushes. The House itself is large and handsome, and contains splendid
+suites of lofty rooms, shaded by wide verandahs, full of ferns and
+palms, looking deliciously green and cool. We found the Governor and
+his family did not start until 11.30, and they kindly begged us to
+return to breakfast at half-past nine, which we did. Before finally
+leaving, Sir William Jervoise sent for the Colonial Secretary, and
+asked him to look after us in his absence. He turned out to be an old
+schoolfellow and college friend of Tom's at Rugby and Oxford; so the
+meeting was a very pleasant one. As soon as the Governor and his suite
+had set off for Johore we went down into the hot dusty town to get our
+letters, parcels, and papers, and to look at the shops. There are not
+many Malay specialities to be bought here; most of the curiosities
+come from India, China, and Japan, with the exception of birds of
+Paradise from New Guinea, and beautiful bright birds of all colours
+and sizes from the various islands in the Malay Archipelago.
+
+The north-east monsoon still blows fresh and strong, but it was
+nevertheless terribly hot in the streets, and we were very glad to
+return to the cool, shady rooms at Government House, where we
+thoroughly appreciated the delights of the punkah.
+
+There are very few European servants here, and they all have their own
+peons to wait on them, and carry an umbrella over them when they drive
+the carriage or go for a walk on their own account. Even the private
+soldier in Singapore has a punkah pulled over his bed at night. It is
+quite a sight to meet all the coolies leaving barracks at 5 a.m., when
+they have done punkah-pulling.
+
+At four o'clock Mr. Douglas called to take us for a drive. We went
+first to the Botanical Gardens, and saw sago-palms and all sorts of
+tropical produce flourishing in perfection. There were many beautiful
+birds and beasts, Argus pheasants, Lyre birds, cuckoos, doves, and
+pigeons, more like parrots than doves in the gorgeous metallic lustre
+of their plumage. The cages were large, and the enclosures in front
+full of Cape jasmine bushes (covered with buds) for the birds to peck
+at and eat.
+
+From the gardens we went for a drive through the pretty villas that
+surround Singapore in every direction. Every house outside the town is
+built on a separate little hill in order to catch every breath of
+fresh air. There is generally rather a long drive up to the houses,
+and the public roads run along the valleys between them.
+
+It was now dark, and we returned to dine at Government House.
+
+_Sunday, March 18th_.--At six o'clock this morning Mabelle and I went
+ashore with the steward and the comprador to the market. It is a nice,
+clean, octagonal building, well supplied with vegetables and curious
+fruits. The latter are mostly brought from the other islands, as this
+is the worst season of the year in Singapore for fruit. I do not quite
+understand why this should be, for, as it is only a degree above the
+line, there is very little variation in the seasons here. The sun
+always rises and sets at six o'clock all the year round; for months
+they have a north-east monsoon, and then for months together a
+south-west monsoon.
+
+We tasted many fruits new to us--delicious mangosteens, lacas, and
+other fruits whose names I could not ascertain. Lastly, we tried a
+durian, _the_ fruit of the East, as it is called by people who live
+here, and having got over the first horror of the onion-like odour we
+found it by no means bad.
+
+The fish market is the cleanest, and best arranged, and sweetest
+smelling that I ever went through. It is situated on a sort of open
+platform, under a thick thatched roof, built out over the sea, so that
+all the refuse is easily disposed of and washed away by the tide. From
+the platform on which it stands, two long jetties run some distance
+out into the sea, so that large fishing boats can come alongside and
+discharge their cargoes from the deep at the door of the market with
+scarcely any exposure to the rays of the tropical sun.
+
+The poultry market is a curious place. On account of the intense heat
+everything is brought alive to the market, and the quacking, cackling,
+gobbling, and crowing that go on are really marvellous. The whole
+street is alive with birds in baskets, cages, and coops, or tied by
+the leg and thrown down anyhow. There were curious pheasants and
+jungle-fowl from Perak, doves, pigeons, quails, besides cockatoos,
+parrots, parrakeets, and lories. They are all very tame and very
+cheap; and some of the scarlet lories, looking like a flame of fire,
+chatter in the most amusing way. I have a cage full of tiny parrots
+not bigger than bullfinches, of a dark green colour, with dark red
+throats and blue heads, yellow marks on the back, and red and yellow
+tails. Having bought these, everybody seemed to think that I wanted an
+unlimited supply of birds, and soon we were surrounded by a chattering
+crowd, all with parrots in their hands and on their shoulders. It was
+a very amusing sight, though rather noisy, and the competition reduced
+the prices very much. Parrakeets ranged from twelve to thirty cents
+apiece, talking parrots and cockatoos from one to five dollars. At
+last the vendors became so energetic that I was glad to get into the
+gharry again, and drive away to a flower shop, where we bought some
+gardenias for one penny a dozen, beautifully fresh and fragrant, but
+with painfully short stalks.
+
+Towards the end of the south-west monsoon, little native open boats
+arrive from the islands 1,500 to 3,000 miles to the southward of
+Singapore. Each has one little tripod mast. The whole family live on
+board. The sides of the boat cannot be seen for the multitudes of
+cockatoos, parrots, parrakeets, and birds of all sorts, fastened on
+little perches, with very short strings attached to them. The decks
+are covered with sandal-wood. The holds are full of spice, shells,
+feathers, and South Sea pearl shells. With this cargo they creep from
+island to island, and from creek to creek, before the monsoon, till
+they reach their destination. They stay a month or six weeks, change
+their goods for iron, nails, a certain amount of pale green or Indian
+red thread for weaving, and some pieces of Manchester cotton. They
+then go back with the north-east monsoon, selling their goods at the
+various islands on their homeward route. There are many Dutch ports
+nearer than Singapore, but they are over-regulated, and preference is
+given to the free English port, where the simple natives can do as
+they like so long as they do not transgress the laws.
+
+As we were going on board, we met the Maharajah of Johore's servant,
+just going off with invitations to dinner, lunch, and breakfast for
+the next two days for all our party, and with all sorts of kind
+propositions for shooting and other amusements.
+
+Some of our friends came off before luncheon to see the yacht, and we
+returned with them to tiffin at Government House. At four o'clock the
+carriage came round to take us to Johore. We wished good-bye to
+Singapore and all our kind friends, and started on a lovely drive
+through the tropical scenery. There is a capital road, fifteen miles
+in length, across the island, and our little ponies rattled along at a
+good pace. There was a pleasant breeze and not much dust, no sun, and
+a stream ran the whole way by the side of the road. The acacia
+flamboyante--that splendid tree which came originally from Rangoon and
+Sumatra--was planted alongside the road, and produced a most charming
+effect. It is a large tree, with large leaves of the most delicate
+green; on its topmost boughs grow gorgeous clusters of scarlet flowers
+with yellow centres, and the effect of these scarlet plumes tossing in
+the air is truly beautiful. As we were driving along we espied a
+splendid butterfly, with wings about ten inches long. Mr. Bingham
+jumped out of the carriage and knocked it down with his hat; but it
+was so like the colour of leaves in grass that in the twilight nobody
+could distinguish it, and, to our great disappointment, we could not
+find it. We were equally unsuccessful in our attempted capture of a
+water-snake a couple of feet long. We threw sticks and stones and our
+syce waded into the stream, but all to no purpose; it glided away into
+some safe little hole under the bank.
+
+We reached the sea-shore about six o'clock, and found the Maharajah's
+steam-launch waiting to convey us across the Straits to the mainland.
+These Straits used to be the old route to Singapore, and are somewhat
+intricate. Tom engaged a very good pilot to bring the yacht round, but
+at the last moment thought that he should like to bring her himself;
+the result being that he arrived rather late for dinner. The Maharajah
+and most of the party were out shooting when we arrived; but Sir
+William Jervoise met us and showed us round the place, and also
+arranged about rooms for us to dress in. Johore is a charming place;
+the Straits are so narrow and full of bends that they look more like a
+peaceful river or inland lake in the heart of a tropical forest than
+an arm of the mighty ocean. As we approached we had observed a good
+deal of smoke rising from the jungle, and, as the shades of evening
+closed over the scene, we could see the lurid glare of two extensive
+fires.
+
+We sat down thirty to dinner at eight o'clock. There were the
+Maharajah's brothers, the Prime Minister, Harkim or judge, and several
+other Malay chiefs, the Governor of the Straits Settlements, his
+family and suite, and one or two people from Singapore. The dinner was
+cooked and served in European style; the table decorated with gold and
+silver epergnes full of flowers, on velvet stands, and with heaps of
+small cut-flower glasses full of jasmine. We were waited on by the
+Malay servants of the establishment, dressed in grey and yellow, and
+by the Governor's Madras servants, in white and scarlet. The Maharajah
+and his native guests were all in English evening dress, with white
+waistcoats, bright turbans, and sarongs. The room was large and open
+on all sides, and the fresh evening breeze, in addition to the
+numerous punkahs, made it delightfully cool. The Maharajah is a strict
+Mohammedan himself, and drinks nothing but water. I spent the three
+hours during which the dinner lasted in very pleasant conversation
+with my two neighbours. We returned on board soon after eleven
+o'clock.
+
+[Illustration: Maharajah of Johore's House.]
+
+_Monday, March 19th_.--Mabelle and I went ashore at six o'clock for a
+drive. It was a glorious morning, with a delightfully cool breeze,
+and the excursion was most enjoyable. We drove first through the old
+town of Johore, once of considerable importance, and still a place of
+trade for opium, indigo, pepper, and other tropical products. Nutmeg
+and maize used to be the great articles of export, but latterly the
+growth has failed, and, instead of the groves we had expected to see,
+there were only solitary trees. After leaving the town we went along a
+good road for some distance, with cottages and clearings on either
+side, until we came to a pepper and gambir plantation. The two crops
+are cultivated together, and both are grown on the edge of the jungle,
+for the sake of the wood, which is burned in the preparation of the
+gambir. I confess that I had never heard of the latter substance
+before, but I find that it is largely exported to Europe, where it is
+occasionally employed for giving weight to silks, and for tanning
+purposes.
+
+The pepper garden we saw was many acres in extent. Some of the trees
+in the forest close by are very fine, especially the camphor-wood, and
+the great red, purple, and copper-coloured oleanders, which grow in
+clumps twenty and thirty feet in height. The orchids with which all
+the trees were covered, hanging down in long tassels of lovely
+colours, or spread out like great spotted butterflies and insects,
+were most lovely of all. By far the most abundant was the white
+phalaenopsis, with great drooping sprays of pure white waxy blossoms,
+some delicately streaked with crimson, others with yellow. It was a
+genuine jungle, and we were told that it is the resort of numerous
+tigers and elephants, and that snakes abound.
+
+On our way back through the town we stopped to see the process of
+opium making. This drug is brought from India in an almost raw state,
+rolled up in balls, about the size of billiard balls, and wrapped in
+its own leaves. Here it is boiled down, several times refined, and
+prepared for smoking. The traffic in it forms a very profitable
+monopoly, which is shared in Singapore between the English Government
+and the Maharajah of Johore.
+
+We also saw indigo growing; the dye is prepared very much in the same
+way as the gambir. That grown here is not so good as that which comes
+from India, and it is therefore not much exported, though it is used
+by the innumerable Chinese in the Malay peninsula to dye all their
+clothes, which are invariably of some deep shade of blue. We saw
+sago-palms growing, but the mill was not working, so that we could not
+see the process of manufacture; but it seems to be very similar to the
+preparation of tapioca, which we had seen in Brazil.
+
+On our passage through the town we went to look at a large gambling
+establishment; of course no one was playing so early in the morning,
+but in the evening it is always densely crowded, and is a great source
+of profit to the proprietor. I could not manage to make out exactly
+from the description what the game they play is like, but it was not
+fan-tan. We now left the carriage, and strolled to see the people, the
+shops, and the market. I bought all sorts of common curiosities,
+little articles of everyday life, some of which will be sure to amuse
+and interest my English friends. Among my purchases were a wooden
+pillow, some joss candles, a two-stringed fiddle, and a few preserved
+eggs, which they say are over a hundred years old. The eggs are
+certainly nasty enough for anything; still it seems strange that so
+thrifty a people as the Chinese should allow so much capital to lie
+dormant--literally buried in the earth.
+
+At half-past nine o'clock the Maharajah, with the Governor and all his
+guests, came on board. His Highness inspected the yacht with the
+utmost minuteness and interest, though his Mohammedan ideas about
+women were considerably troubled when he was told that I had had a
+great deal to do with the designing and arrangement of the interior.
+At half-past eleven the party left, and an hour afterwards we went to
+make our adieux to the Maharajah.
+
+On our departure the Maharajah ordered twenty coolies to accompany
+us, laden with fragrant tropical plants. He also gave me some splendid
+Malay silk sarongs, grown, made, and woven in his kingdom, a pair of
+tusks of an elephant shot within a mile of the house, besides a live
+little beast, not an alligator, and not an armadillo or a lizard; in
+fact I do not know what it is; it clings round my arm just like a
+bracelet, and it was sent as a present by the ex-Sultan of Johore.
+Having said farewell to our kind host and other friends, we pushed off
+from the shore, and embarked on board the yacht; the anchor was up,
+and by five o'clock a bend in the Straits hid hospitable and pleasant
+Johore from our view, and all we could see was the special steamer on
+her way back to Singapore with the Maharajah's guests on board. At
+Tanjore we dropped our funny little pilot, and proceeded on our course
+towards Penang. The Straits are quite lovely, and fully repaid the
+trouble and time involved in the detour made to visit them. The sun
+set and the young moon arose over as lovely a tropical scene as you
+can possibly imagine.
+
+[Illustration: The pet Manis.]
+
+_Tuesday, March 20th_.--At 5.30, when we were called, the Doctor came
+and announced that he had something very important to communicate to
+us. This proved to be that one of our men was suffering from
+small-pox, and not from rheumatic fever, as had been supposed. My
+first thought was that Muriel had been with the Doctor to see him
+yesterday evening; my next, that many men had been sleeping in the
+same part of the vessel with him; my third, that for his greater
+comfort he had been each day in our part of the ship; and my fourth,
+what was to be done now? After a short consultation, Tom decided to
+alter our course for Malacca, where we arrived at half-past nine; the
+Doctor at once went on shore in a native prahu to make the best
+arrangements he could under the circumstances. He was fortunate enough
+to find Dr. Simon, nephew of the celebrated surgeon of the same name,
+installed as head physician at the civil hospital here. He came off at
+once with the hospital boat, and, having visited the invalid, declared
+his illness to be a very mild case of small-pox. He had brought off
+some lymph with him, and recommended us all to be re-vaccinated. He
+had also brought sundry disinfectants, and gave instructions about
+fumigating and disinfecting the yacht. All the men were called upon
+the quarter-deck, and addressed by Tom, and we were surprised to find
+what a large proportion of them objected to the operation of
+vaccination. At last, however, the prejudices of all of them, except
+two, were overcome. One of the latter had promised his grandfather
+that he never would be vaccinated under any circumstances, while
+another would consent to be inoculated, but would not be vaccinated.
+We had consulted our own medical man before leaving England, and knew
+that for ourselves the operation was not necessary, but we
+nevertheless underwent it _pour encourager les autres_. While the
+Doctor was on shore we had been surrounded by boats bringing monkeys,
+birds, ratan and Malacca canes, fruit, rice, &c., to sell, and as I
+did not care to go ashore, thinking there might be some bother about
+quarantine, we made bargains over the side of the yacht with the
+traders, the result being that seven monkeys, about fifty birds of
+sorts, and innumerable bundles of canes, were added to the stock on
+board. In the meantime Dr. Simon had removed our invalid to the
+hospital.
+
+Malacca looks exceedingly pretty from the sea. It is a regular Malay
+village, consisting of huts, built on piles close to the water,
+overshadowed by cocoa palms and other forms of tropical vegetation.
+Mount Ofia rises in the distance behind; there are many green islands,
+too, in the harbour. By one o'clock we were again under way, and once
+more _en route_ for Penang.
+
+[Illustration: MALACCA]
+
+_Wednesday, March 21st_.--During the night we had heavy thunder
+storms. About 11 a.m. we passed a piece of drift-wood with a bird
+perched on the top, presenting a most curious effect. Several of the
+men on board mistook it for the back fin of a large shark. About 5
+p.m. we made the island of Penang. After sunset it became very hazy,
+and we crept slowly up, afraid of injuring the numerous stake nets
+that are set about the Straits most promiscuously, and without any
+lights to mark their position. Before midnight we had dropped our
+anchor.
+
+_Thursday, March 22nd_.--At 5 a.m., when we were called, the whole sky
+was overcast with a lurid glare, and the atmosphere was thick, as if
+with the fumes of some vast conflagration. As the sun rose in raging
+fierceness, the sky cleared, and became of a deep, clear, transparent
+blue. The island of Penang is very beautiful, especially in the early
+morning light. It was fortunate we did not try to come in last night,
+as we could now see that we must inevitably have run through some of
+the innumerable stake nets I mentioned. As we approached Georgetown,
+the capital of the province, we passed many steamers and sailing ships
+at anchor in the roads. A pilot offered his services, but Tom declined
+them with thanks, and soon afterwards skilfully brought us up close in
+shore in the crowded roadstead. The harbour-master sent off, as did
+also the mail-master, but no Board of Health officials appeared; so,
+after some delay, the Doctor went on shore to find the local medical
+man, promising shortly to return. He did not, however, reappear, and,
+after waiting a couple of hours, we landed without opposition. We
+packed off all the servants for a run on shore, and had all the fires
+put out in order to cool the ship. Our first inquiry was for an hotel
+where we could breakfast, and we were recommended to go to the Hotel
+de l'Europe.
+
+Our demands for breakfast were met at first with the reply that it was
+too late, and that we must wait till one o'clock tiffin; but a little
+persuasion induced the manager to find some cold meat, eggs, and
+lemonade. We afterwards drove out to one or two shops, but anything so
+hopeless as the stores here I never saw. Not a single curiosity could
+we find, not even a bird. We drove round the town, and out to the
+Governor's house; he was away, but we were most kindly received by
+Mrs. Anson and his daughter, and strongly recommended by them to make
+an expedition to the bungalow at the top of the hill. In about an hour
+and a half, always ascending, we reached the Governor's bungalow,
+situated in a charming spot, where the difference of 10 deg. in the
+temperature, caused by being 1,500 feet higher up, is a great boon.
+After tiffin and a rest at the hotel, a carriage came to take us to
+the foot of the hill, about four miles from the town. We went first
+to a large Jesuit establishment, where some most benevolent old
+priests were teaching a large number of Malay boys reading, writing,
+and geography. Then we went a little further, and, in a small wooden
+house, under the cocoa trees, at last found some of the little humming
+birds for which the Malay Archipelago is famous. They glisten with a
+marvellous metallic lustre all over their bodies, instead of only in
+patches, as one sees upon those in South America and the West Indies.
+The drive was intensely tropical in character, until we reached the
+waterfall, where we left the carriage and got into chairs, each
+carried by six coolies. The scenery all about the waterfall is lovely,
+and a large stream of sparkling, cool, clear water tumbling over the
+rocks was most refreshing to look at. Many people who have business in
+Penang live up here, riding up and down morning and evening, for the
+sake of the cool, refreshing night air. One of the most curious things
+in vegetation which strikes our English eyes is the extraordinary
+abundance of the sensitive plant. It is interwoven with all the grass,
+and grows thickly in all the hedgerows. In the neatly kept turf, round
+the Government bungalow, its long, creeping, prickly stems,
+acacia-like leaves, and little fluffy mauve balls of flowers are so
+numerous, that, walking up and down the croquet lawn, it appears to be
+bowing before you, for the delicate plants are sensible of even an
+approaching footstep, and shut up and hide their tiny leaves among the
+grass long before you really reach them.
+
+From the top of the hill you can see ninety miles in the clear
+atmosphere, far away across the Straits of Perak to the mainland. We
+could not stay long, and were carried down the hill backwards, as our
+bearers were afraid of our tumbling out of the chairs if we travelled
+forwards. The tropical vegetation is even more striking here, but,
+alas! it is already losing its novelty to us. Those were indeed
+pleasant days when everything was new and strange; it seems now
+almost as if years, not months, had gone past since we first entered
+these latitudes. We found the carriage waiting for us when we arrived
+at the bottom of the hill about seven o'clock, and it was not long
+before we reached the town.
+
+The glowworms and fireflies were numerous. The natives were cooking
+their evening meal on the ground beneath the tall palm-trees as we
+passed, with the glare of the fires lighting up the picturesque huts,
+their dark figures relieved by their white and scarlet turbans and
+waist-cloth. The whole scene put us very much in mind of the old
+familiar pictures of India, the lithe figures of the natives looking
+like beautiful bronze statues, the rough country carts, drawn by
+buffaloes without harness, but dragging by their hump, and driven by
+black-skinned natives armed with a long goad. We went straight to the
+jetty, and found to our surprise that in the roads there was quite a
+breeze blowing, and a very strong tide running against it, which made
+the sea almost rough.
+
+Mrs. and Miss Anson, Mr. Talbot, and other friends, dined with us. At
+eleven they landed, and we weighed anchor, and were soon gliding
+through the Straits of Malacca, shaping for Acheen Head, _en route_ to
+Galle.
+
+It seems strange that an important English settlement like Penang,
+where so many large steamers and ships are constantly calling, should
+be without lights or quarantine laws. We afterwards learned on shore
+that the local government had already surveyed and fixed a place for
+two leading lights. The reason why no health officers came off to us
+this morning was probably that, small-pox and cholera both being
+prevalent in the town, they thought that the fewer questions they
+asked, and the less they saw of incoming vessels, the better.
+
+_Friday, March 23rd_.--A broiling day, everybody panting, parrots and
+parrakeets dying. We passed a large barque with every sail set,
+although it was a flat calm, which made us rejoice in the possession
+of steam-power. Several people on board are very unwell, and the
+engineer is really ill. It is depressing to speculate what would
+become of us if anything went wrong in the engine-room department, and
+if we should be reduced to sail-power alone in this region of
+calmness. At last even I know what it is to be too hot, and am quite
+knocked up with my short experience.
+
+[Illustration: How the Journal was written]
+
+_Saturday, March 24th_.--Another flat calm. The after-forecastle,
+having been battened down and fumigated for the last seventy-two
+hours, was to-day opened, and its contents brought up on deck, some to
+be thrown overboard, and others to be washed with carbolic acid. I
+never saw such quantities of things as were turned out; they covered
+the whole deck, and it seemed as if their cubic capacity must be far
+greater than that of the place in which they had been stowed. Besides
+the beds and tables of eight men, there were forty-eight birds, four
+monkeys, two cockatoos, and a tortoise, besides Japanese cabinets and
+boxes of clothes, books, china, coral, shells, and all sorts of
+imaginable and unimaginable things. One poor tortoise had been killed
+and bleached white by the chlorine gas.
+
+_Sunday, March 25th_.--Hotter than ever. It was quite impossible to
+have service either on deck or below. We always observe Sunday by
+showing a little extra attention to dress, and, as far as the
+gentlemen are concerned, a little more care in the matter of shaving.
+On other days I fear our toilets would hardly pass muster in civilised
+society. Tom set the example of leaving off collars, coats, and
+waistcoats; so shirts and trousers are now the order of the day. The
+children wear grass-cloth pinafores and very little else, no shoes or
+stockings, Manilla or Chinese slippers being worn by those who dislike
+bare feet. I find my Tahitian and Hawaiian dresses invaluable: they
+are really cool, loose, and comfortable, and I scarcely ever wear
+anything else.
+
+We passed a large steamer about 7.30 a.m., and in the afternoon
+altered our course to speak the 'Middlesex,' of London, bound to the
+Channel for orders. We had quite a long conversation with the captain,
+and parted with mutual good wishes for a pleasant voyage. It was a
+lovely moonlight night, but very hot, though we found a delightful
+sleeping-place beneath the awning on deck.
+
+_Monday, March 26th_.--The sun appeared to rise even fiercer and
+hotter than ever this morning. I have been very anxious for the last
+few days about Baby, who has been cutting some teeth and has suffered
+from a rash. Muriel has been bitten all over by mosquitoes, and
+Mabelle has also suffered from heat-rash. Just now every little
+ailment suggests small-pox to our minds.
+
+About noon, when in latitude 6.25 North, and in longitude 88.25 East,
+we began to encounter a great deal of drift wood, many large trees,
+branches, plants, leaves, nautilus shells, back-bones of cuttlefish,
+and, in addition, large quantities of yellow spawn, evidently
+deposited by some fish of large size. The spawn appeared to be of a
+very solid, consistent character, like large yellow grapes, connected
+together in a sort of gelatinous mass. It formed a continuous wide
+yellow streak perhaps half a mile in length, and with the bits of wood
+and branches sticking up in its midst at intervals, it would not have
+required a very lively imagination to fashion it at a little distance
+into a sea serpent. Where does all this _debris_ come from? was the
+question asked by everybody. Out of the Bay of Bengal probably,
+judging from the direction of the current. We wondered if it could
+possibly be the remains of some of the trees uprooted by the last
+great cyclone.
+
+At 1.30 p.m. a man cried out from the rigging, 'Boat on the starboard
+bow!' a cry that produced great excitement immediately; our course was
+altered and telescopes and glasses brought to bear upon the object in
+question. Every one on board, except our old sailing master, said it
+was a native boat. Some even said that they could see a man on board
+waving something. Powell alone declared it to be the root of a palm
+from the Bay of Bengal, and he proved right. A very large root it was,
+with one single stem and a few leaves hanging down, which had exactly
+the appearance of broken masts, tattered sails, and torn rigging. We
+went close alongside to have a good look at it; the water was as clear
+as crystal, and beneath the surface were hundreds of beautifully
+coloured fish, greedily devouring something--I suppose small insects,
+or fish entangled among the roots.
+
+_Tuesday, March 27th_.--It requires a great effort to do anything,
+except before sunrise or after sunset, owing to the intense heat; and
+when one is not feeling well it makes exertion still more difficult.
+At night the heat below is simply unbearable; the cabins are deserted,
+and all mattresses are brought up on deck.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+CEYLON.
+
+    _Thus was this place
+    _A happy rural seat of various views,_
+    _Groves whose rich trees wept odorous gums and balm,_
+    _Others, whose fruit, burnish'd with golden rind,_
+    _Hung amiable, Hesperian fables true._
+
+_Wednesday, March 28th_.--At midnight the wind was slightly ahead, and
+we could distinctly smell the fragrant breezes and spicy odours of
+Ceylon. We made the eastern side of the island at daylight, and
+coasted along its palm-fringed shores all day. I had been very unwell
+for some days past, but this delightful indication of our near
+approach to the land seemed to do me good at once. If only the
+interior is as beautiful as what we can see from the deck of the
+yacht, my expectations will be fully realised, brilliant as they are.
+
+As the sun set, the beauty of the scene from the deck of the yacht
+seemed to increase. We proceeded slowly, and at about nine o'clock
+were in the roads of Galle and could see the ships at anchor. Tom did
+not like to venture further in the dark without a pilot, and
+accordingly told the signal-man to make signals for one, but being
+impatient he sent up a rocket, besides burning blue lights, a mistake
+which had the effect of bringing the first officer of the P. and O.
+steamship 'Poonah' on board, who thought perhaps we had got aground or
+were in trouble of some sort. He also informed us that pilots never
+came off after dark, and kindly offered to show us a good anchorage
+for the night.
+
+_Thursday, March 29th_.--The pilot came off early, and soon after six
+we dropped anchor in Galle harbour. The entrance is fine, and the bay
+one of the most beautiful in the world. The picturesque town, with its
+old buildings, and the white surf dashing in among the splendid
+cocoa-trees which grow down to the water's edge, combined to make up a
+charming picture. We went on board the 'Poonah' to breakfast as
+arranged, and afterwards all over the ship, which is in splendid
+order. Thence we went ashore to the Oriental Company's Hotel, a most
+comfortable building, with a large, shady verandah, which to-day was
+crowded by passengers from the 'Poonah.' At tiffin there was a great
+crowd, and we met some old friends. At three o'clock we returned to
+the yacht, to show her to the captain of the 'Poonah' and some of his
+friends, and an hour later we started in two carriages for a drive to
+Wockwalla, a hill commanding a splendid view. The drive was
+delightful, and the vegetation more beautiful than any we have seen
+since leaving Tahiti, but it would have been more enjoyable if we had
+not been so pestered by boys selling flowers and bunches of mace in
+various stages of development. It certainly is very pretty when the
+peach-like fruit is half open and shows the network of scarlet
+mace surrounding the brown nutmeg within. From Wockwalla the view
+is lovely, over paddy-fields, jungle, and virgin forest, up to
+the hills close by and to the mountains beyond. There is a small
+refreshment-room at the top of the hill, kept by a nice little mulatto
+woman and her husband. Here we drank lemonade, ate mangoes, and
+watched the sun gradually declining, but we were obliged to leave
+before it had set, as we wanted to visit the cinnamon gardens on our
+way back. The prettiest thing in the whole scene was the river running
+through the middle of the landscape, and the white-winged,
+scarlet-bodied cranes, disporting themselves along the banks among the
+dark green foliage and light green shoots of the crimson-tipped
+cinnamon-trees. We had a glorious drive home along the sea-shore
+under cocoa-nut trees, amongst which the fireflies flitted, and
+through which we could see the red and purple afterglow of the sunset.
+Ceylon is, as every one knows, celebrated for its real gems, and
+almost as much for the wonderful imitations offered for sale by the
+natives. Some are made in Birmingham and exported, but many are made
+here and in India, and are far better in appearance than ours, or even
+those of Paris. More than once in the course of our drive, half-naked
+Indians produced from their waist-cloths rubies, sapphires, and
+emeralds for which they asked from one to four thousand rupees, and
+gratefully took fourpence, after a long run with the carriage, and
+much vociferation and gesticulation. After _table-d'hote_ dinner at
+the hotel we went off to the yacht in a pilot boat; the buoys were all
+illuminated, and boats with four or five men in them, provided with
+torches, were in readiness to show us the right way out. By ten
+o'clock we were outside the harbour and on our way to Colombo.
+
+_Friday, March 30th_.--It rained heavily during the night, and we were
+obliged to sleep in the deck-house instead of on deck. At daylight all
+was again bright and beautiful, and the cocoanut-clad coast of Ceylon
+looked most fascinating in the early morning light. About ten o'clock
+we dropped our anchor in the harbour at Colombo, which was crowded
+with shipping. 175,000 coolies have been landed here within the last
+two or three months; consequently labour is very cheap this year in
+the coffee plantations.
+
+The instant we anchored we were of course surrounded by boats selling
+every possible commodity and curiosity, carved ebony, ivory,
+sandal-wood, and models of the curious boats in use here. These boats
+are very long and narrow, with an enormous outrigger and large sail,
+and when it is very rough, nearly the whole of the crew of the boat go
+out one by one, and sit on the outrigger to keep it in the water, from
+which springs the Cingalese saying, 'One man, two men, four men
+breeze.' The heat was intense, though there was a pleasant breeze
+under the awning on deck; we therefore amused ourselves by looking
+over the side and bargaining with the natives, until our letters,
+which we had sent for, arrived. About one o'clock we went ashore,
+encountering on our way some exceedingly dreadful smells, wafted from
+ships laden with guano, bones, and other odoriferous cargoes. The
+inner boat harbour is unsavoury and unwholesome to the last degree,
+and is just now crowded with many natives of various castes from the
+south of India.
+
+Colombo is rather a European-looking town, with fine buildings and
+many open green spaces, where there were actually soldiers playing
+cricket, with great energy, under the fierce rays of the midday sun.
+We went at once to an hotel and rested; loitering after tiffin in the
+verandah, which was as usual crowded with sellers of all sorts of
+Indian things. Most of the day was spent in driving about, and having
+made our arrangements for an early start to-morrow, we then walked
+down to the harbour, getting drenched on our way by a tremendous
+thunderstorm.
+
+_Saturday, March 31st_.--Up early, and after rather a scramble we went
+ashore at seven o'clock, just in time to start by the first train to
+Kandy. There was not much time to spare, and we therefore had to pay
+sovereigns for our tickets instead of changing them for rupees,
+thereby receiving only ten instead of eleven and a half, the current
+rate of exchange that day. It seemed rather sharp practice on the part
+of the railway company (_alias_ the Government) to take sovereigns in
+at the window at ten rupees, and sell them at the door for eleven and
+a half, to speculators waiting ready and eager to clutch and sell them
+again at an infinitesimally small profit.
+
+The line to Kandy is always described as one of the most beautiful
+railways in the world, and it certainly deserves the character. The
+first part of the journey is across jungle and through plains; then
+one goes climbing up and up, looking down on all the beauties of
+tropical vegetation, to distant mountains shimmering in the glare and
+haze of the burning sun. The carriages were well ventilated and
+provided with double roofs, and were really tolerably cool.
+
+About nine o'clock we reached Ambepussa, and the scenery increased in
+beauty from this point. A couple of hours later we reached Peradeniya,
+the junction for Gampola. Here most of the passengers got out, bound
+for Neuera-ellia, the sanatorium of Ceylon, 7,000 feet above the sea.
+Soon after leaving the station, we passed the Satinwood Bridge. Here
+we had a glimpse of the botanical garden at Kandy, and soon afterwards
+reached the station. We were at once rushed at by two telegraph boys,
+each with a telegram of hospitable invitation, whilst a third friend
+met us with his carriage, and asked us to go at once to his house, a
+few miles out of Kandy. We hesitated to avail ourselves of his kind
+offer, as we were such a large party; but he insisted, and at once set
+off to make things ready for us, whilst we went to breakfast and rest
+at a noisy, dirty, and uncomfortable hotel. It was too hot to do
+anything except to sit in the verandah and watch planter after planter
+come in for an iced drink at the bar. The town is quite full for
+Easter, partly for the amusements and partly for the Church services;
+for on many of the coffee estates there is no church within a
+reasonable distance.
+
+About four o'clock the carriage came round for us, and having
+despatched the luggage in a gharry, we drove round the lovely lake,
+and so out to Peradeniya, where our friend lives, close to the Botanic
+Gardens. Many of the huts and cottages by the roadside have
+'small-pox' written upon them in large letters, in three languages,
+English, Sanscrit, and Cingalese, a very sensible precaution, for the
+natives are seldom vaccinated, and this terrible disease is a real
+scourge amongst them. Having reached the charming bungalow, it was a
+real luxury to lounge in a comfortable easy chair in a deep cool
+verandah, and to inhale the fragrance of the flowers, whilst lazily
+watching the setting of the sun. Directly it dipped below the horizon,
+glowworms and fireflies came out, bright and numerous as though the
+stars had come down to tread, or rather fly, a fairy dance among the
+branches of the tall palm-trees high overhead. Our rooms were most
+comfortable, and the baths delicious. After dinner we all adjourned
+once more to the verandah to watch the dancing fireflies, the
+lightning, and the heavy thunderclouds, and enjoy the cool evening
+breeze. You in England who have never been in the tropics cannot
+appreciate the intense delight of that sensation. Then we went to bed,
+and passed a most luxurious night of cool and comfortable sleep, not
+tossing restlessly about, as we had been doing for some time past.
+
+_Sunday, April 1st_.--I awoke before daylight. Our bed faced the
+windows, which were wide open, without blinds, curtains, or shutters,
+and I lay and watched the light gradually creeping over the trees,
+landscape, and garden, and the sun rising glorious from behind the
+distant mountains, shining brightly into the garden, drawing out a
+thousand fresh fragrances from every leaf and flower.
+
+By seven o'clock we found ourselves enjoying an early tea within the
+pretty bungalow in the centre of the Botanic Gardens, and thoroughly
+appreciating delicious fresh butter and cream, the first we have
+tasted for ages. We went for the most delightful stroll afterwards,
+and saw for the first time many botanical curiosities, and several
+familiar old friends growing in greater luxuriance than our eyes are
+even yet accustomed to. The groups of palms were most beautiful. I
+never saw anything finer than the tallipot-palm, and the areca, with
+the beetle-vine climbing round it; besides splendid specimens of the
+kitool or jaggery-palm. Then there was the palmyra, which to the
+inhabitant of the North of Ceylon is what the cocoa-nut is to the
+inhabitant of the South--food, clothing, and lodging. The
+pitcher-plants and the rare scarlet amherstia looked lovely, as did
+also the great groups of yellow and green stemmed bamboos. There were
+magnolias, shaddocks, hibiscus, the almost too fragrant
+yellow-flowered champac, sacred to Hindoo mythology; nutmeg and
+cinnamon trees, tea and coffee, and every other conceivable plant and
+tree, growing in the wildest luxuriance. Through the centre of the
+gardens flows the river Ambang Ganga, and the whole 140 acres are laid
+out so like an English park that, were it not for the unfamiliar
+foliage, you might fancy yourself at home.
+
+We drove back to our host's to breakfast, and directly afterwards
+started in two carriages to go to church at Kandy. The church is a
+fine large building, lofty, and cool, and well ventilated. This being
+Easter Sunday, the building was lavishly decorated with palms and
+flowers. The service was well performed, and the singing was
+excellent. The sparrows flew in and out by the open doors and windows.
+One of the birds was building a nest in a corner, and during the
+service she added to it a marabout feather, a scrap of lace, and an
+end of pink riband. It will be a curious nest when finished, if she
+adds at this rate to her miscellaneous collection.
+
+After church we walked to the Government House. Sir William Gregory
+is, unfortunately for us, away in Australia, and will not return till
+just after our departure. The entrance to it was gay with gorgeous
+scarlet lilies, brought over by some former Governor from South
+America. It is a very fine house, but unfinished. We wandered through
+the 'banquet halls deserted,' and then sat a little while in the broad
+cool airy verandah looking into the beautiful garden and on to the
+mountain beyond.
+
+At half-past eleven it was time to leave this delightfully cool
+retired spot, and to drive to a very pleasant luncheon, served on a
+polished round walnut-wood table, without any tablecloth, a novel and
+pretty plan in so hot a climate. As soon as it became sufficiently
+cool we went on round the upper lake and to the hills above, whence we
+looked down upon Kandy, one of the most charmingly placed cities in
+the world. As we came back we stopped for a few minutes at the Court,
+a very fair specimen of florid Hindoo architecture, where the judges
+sit, and justice of all kinds is administered, and where the Prince of
+Wales held the installation of the Order of St. Michael and St. George
+during his visit. We also looked in at some of the bazaars, to examine
+the brass chatties and straw-work. Then came another delicious rest in
+the verandah among the flowers until it was time for dinner. Such
+flowers as they are! The Cape jessamines are in full beauty just now,
+and our host breaks off for us great branches laden with the fragrant
+bloom.
+
+_Monday, April 2nd_.--Before breakfast I took a stroll all round the
+place, with our host, to look at his numerous pets, which include
+spotted deer, monkeys, and all sorts of other creatures. We also went
+to the stables, and saw first the horses, and the horsekeepers with
+their pretty Indian wives and children. Then we wandered down to the
+bamboo-fringed shores of the river, which rises in the mountains here,
+and flows right through the island to Trincomalee.
+
+At eleven o'clock Tom and I said 'good-bye' to the rest of the party,
+and went by train to Gampola, to take the coach to Neuera-ellia, where
+we were to stay with an old friend. We went only a dozen miles in the
+train, and then were turned out into what is called a coach, but is
+really a very small rough wagonnette, capable of holding six people
+with tolerable comfort, but into which seven, eight, and even nine
+were crammed. By the time the vehicle was fully laden, we found there
+was positively no room for even the one box into which Tom's things
+and my own had all been packed; so we had to take out indispensable
+necessaries, and tie them up in a bundle like true sailors out for a
+holiday, leaving our box behind, in charge of the station-master,
+until our return. The first part of the drive was not very
+interesting, the road passing only through paddy-fields and endless
+tea and coffee plantations. We reached Pusillawa about two o'clock,
+where we found a rough and ready sort of breakfast awaiting us. Thence
+we had a steep climb through some of the finest coffee estates in
+Ceylon, belonging to the Rothschilds, until we reached Rangbodde. Here
+there was another delay of half an hour; but although we were anxious
+to get on, to arrive in time for dinner, it was impossible to regret
+stopping amidst this lovely scenery. The house which serves as a
+resting-place is a wretched affair, but the view from the verandah in
+front is superb. A large river falls headlong over the steep wall of
+rock, forming three splendid waterfalls, which, uniting and rushing
+under a fine one-arched bridge, complete this scene of beauty and
+grandeur.
+
+We were due at Neuera-ellia at six, but we had only one pair of horses
+to drag our heavy load up the steep mountain road, and the poor
+creatures jibbed, kicked over the traces, broke them three times, and
+more than once were so near going over the edge of the precipice that
+I jumped out, and the other passengers, all gentlemen, walked the
+whole of that stage. The next was no better, the fresh pair of horses
+jibbing and kicking worse than ever. At last one kicked himself free
+of all the harness, and fell on his back in a deep ditch. If it had
+not been so tiresome, it really would have been very laughable,
+especially as everybody was more or less afraid of the poor horse's
+heels, and did not in the least know how to extricate him.
+
+In this dilemma our hunting experiences came in usefully, for with the
+aid of a trace, instead of a stirrup leather, passed round his neck,
+half-a-dozen men managed to haul the horse on to his legs again; but
+the pitchy darkness rendered the repair of damages an exceedingly
+difficult task. The horses, moreover, even when once more in their
+proper position, declined to move, but the gentlemen pushed and the
+drivers flogged and shouted, and very slowly and with many stops we
+ultimately reached the end of that stage. Here we found a young horse,
+who had no idea at all of harness; so after a vain attempt to utilise
+his services, another was sent for, thus causing further delay.
+
+It was now nine o'clock, and we were all utterly exhausted. We managed
+to procure from a cottage some new-laid eggs and cold spring water,
+and these eaten raw, with a little brandy from a hunting-flask, seemed
+to refresh us all. There was again a difficulty in starting, but, once
+fairly under way, the road was not so steep and the horses went
+better. I was now so tired, and had grown so accustomed to hairbreadth
+escapes, that, however near we went to the edge of the precipice, I
+did not feel capable of jumping out, but sat still and watched
+listlessly, wondering whether we should really go over or not. After
+many delays we reached Head-quarter House, where the warmth of the
+welcome our old friend gave us soon made us forget how tired we were.
+They had waited dinner until half-past seven, and had then given us
+up. There were blazing wood fires both in the drawing-room and in our
+bedroom, and in five minutes a most welcome dinner was put before us.
+Afterwards we could have stayed and chatted till midnight, but we were
+promptly sent off to bed, and desired to reserve the rest of our news
+until morning.
+
+_Tuesday, April 3rd_.--A ten o'clock breakfast afforded us ample
+opportunity for a delicious rest and letter-writing beforehand.
+Afterwards we strolled round the garden, full of English flowers,
+roses, carnations, mignonette, and sweet peas. Tom and the gentlemen
+went for a walk, whilst we ladies rested and chatted and wrote
+letters.
+
+After lunch we all started--a large party--to go to the athletic
+sports on the racecourse, where an impromptu sort of grand stand had
+been erected--literally a stand, for there were no seats. There were a
+great many people, and the regimental band played very well. To us it
+appeared a warm damp day, although the weather was much cooler than
+any we have felt lately. This is _the_ week of the year, and everybody
+is here from all parts of the island. People who have been long
+resident in the tropics seem to find it very cold; for the men wore
+great-coats and ulsters, and many of the ladies velvet and sables, or
+sealskin jackets. On the way back from the sports we drove round to
+see something of the settlement; it cannot be called a town, for
+though there are a good many people and houses, no two are within half
+a mile of one another. There are two packs of hounds kept here, one to
+hunt the big elk, the other a pack of harriers. The land-leeches,
+which abound in this neighbourhood, are a great plague to horses, men,
+and hounds. It rained last night, and I was specially cautioned not to
+go on the grass or to pick flowers, as these horrid creatures fix on
+one's ankle or arm without the slightest warning. I have only seen
+one, I am thankful to say, and have escaped a bite; but everybody
+seems to dread and dislike them.
+
+After dinner we went to a very pleasant ball, given by the Jinkhana
+Club, at the barracks. The room was prettily decorated with the racing
+jackets and caps of the riders in the races, and with scarlet wreaths
+of geranium and hibiscus mingled with lycopodium ferns and
+selaginella. We did not remain very late at the ball, as we had to
+make an early start next morning; but the drive home in the moonlight
+was almost as pleasant as any part of the entertainment.
+
+_Wednesday, April 4th_.--We were called at four o'clock, and
+breakfasted at five, everybody appearing either in dressing-gowns or
+in habits to see us set off. They all tried to persuade us to stay for
+the meet of the hounds at the house to-day. Another ball to-night, and
+more races, and another ball to-morrow; but we are homeward bound, and
+must hurry on. It was a lovely morning, and we waited with great
+patience at the post-house for at least an hour and a half, and
+watched the hounds come out, meet, find, and hunt a hare up and down,
+and across the valley, with merry ringing notes that made us long to
+be on horseback.
+
+We saw all the racehorses returning from their morning gallop, and
+were enlightened by the syces as to their names and respective owners.
+There were several people, a great deal of luggage, and, though last
+not least, Her Majesty's mails, all waiting, like us, for the coach.
+About a quarter to seven a message arrived, to the effect that the
+horses would _not_ come up the hill, they had been jibbing for more
+than an hour, so would we kindly go down to the coach. A swarm of
+coolies immediately appeared from some mysterious hiding-place, and
+conveyed us all, bag and baggage, down the hill, and packed us into
+the coach. Even this concession on our part did not induce the horses
+to make up their minds to move for at least another quarter of an
+hour. Then we had to stop at the hotel to pick up somebody else; but
+at last we had fairly started, eleven people in all, some inside and
+some perched on a box behind. The horses were worse than ever, tired
+to death, poor things; and as one lady passenger was very nervous and
+insisted on walking up all the acclivities, we were obliged to make up
+our pace down the hills. The Pass looked lovely by daylight, and the
+wild flowers were splendid, especially the white datura and scarlet
+rhododendron trees, which were literally covered with bloom.
+
+By daylight, the appearance of the horses was really pitiable in the
+extreme--worn-out, half-starved wretches, covered with wounds and
+sores from collars and harness, and with traces of injuries they
+inflict on themselves in their struggles to get free. When once we had
+seen their shoulders, we no longer wondered at their reluctance to
+start; it really made one quite sick to think even of the state they
+were in.
+
+If some of the permanent officials were to devote a portion of their
+time to endeavours to introduce American coaches, and to ameliorate
+the condition of the horses on this road, they would indeed confer a
+boon on their countrymen. The coachman, who was as black as jet, and
+who wore very little clothing, was a curious specimen of his class,
+and appeared by no means skilled in his craft. He drove the whole way
+down the steep zigzag road with a loose rein; at every turn the horses
+went close to the precipice, but were turned in the very nick of time
+by a little black boy who jumped down from behind and pulled them
+round by their traces without touching the bridle. We stopped at
+Rangbodde to breakfast, and again at Pusillawa. This seemed a bad
+arrangement, for we were already late; it resulted in the poor horses
+having to be unmercifully flogged in order to enable us to catch the
+train at Gampola, failing which, the coach proprietors would have had
+to pay a very heavy penalty.
+
+From Gampola we soon arrived at Peradeniya, where we met Mr. Freer,
+who was going down to Colombo. Tom had decided previously to go
+straight on, so as to have the yacht quite ready for an early start
+to-morrow. I in the meantime went to our former hosts for one night to
+pick up Mabelle and the waifs and strays of luggage.
+
+On my way from the station to the house, going over the Satinwood
+Bridge, from which there is a lovely view of the Peacock Mountain, I
+saw an Englishman whom we had observed before, washing stones in the
+bed of the river for gems. He has obtained some rubies and sapphires,
+though only of small size, and I suppose he will go on washing for
+ever, hoping to find something larger and more valuable. On one part
+of the coast of the island near Managgan the sands on the side of one
+of the rivers are formed of rubies, sapphires, garnets, and other
+precious stones washed down by the current, but they are all ground to
+pieces in the process, not one being left as big as a pin's head. The
+effect in the sunlight, when this sand is wet with the waves, is
+something dazzling, and proves that the accounts of my favourite
+Sindbad are not so fabulous as we prosaic mortals try to make out. The
+island must be rich in gems, for they seem to be picked up with hardly
+any trouble. At Neuera-ellia it is a favourite amusement for picnic
+parties to go out gem-hunting, and frequently they meet with very
+large and valuable stones by the riverside or near deserted pits,
+large garnets, cinnamon-stone, splendid cat's-eyes, amethysts, matura
+diamonds, moonstone, aquamarine, tourmaline rubies, and sapphires.
+
+[Illustration: Peacock Mountain, Ceylon.]
+
+On my arrival at the house I found that Mabelle had just returned
+with some friends, who had kindly taken charge of her during our
+absence, and that a very old friend had arrived almost directly we
+left on Monday, and had departed early this morning to climb Adam's
+Peak, the ascent of which is a long and tedious affair, but it cannot
+be difficult, as thousands of aged and infirm pilgrims go every year
+to worship at the Buddhist or Mohammedan temples at the summit. The
+giant footprint has been reverenced alike by both religions from the
+earliest ages. Its existence is differently accounted for, however, by
+the two sects. The Buddhists say it is the footprint of Buddha, and
+that an account of its origin was written 300 or 400 years B.C. The
+Mohammedans say that it is the first step Adam took when driven out of
+Paradise. They do not quarrel about it, however, but live very happily
+close beside one another in their respective temples on the very small
+summit of the mountain. The iron chains, still used by the pilgrims
+and visitors to assist them up the last weary flight of steps, are
+said to have been placed there in the time of Alexander the Great, and
+are mentioned by successive historians.
+
+After lunch I went to rest, thoroughly tired out with the hard work of
+the last two days, whilst the gentlemen went into Kandy, to see
+Buddha's tooth and a Brahmin temple.
+
+Just before sunset we went to have a last look at those lovely
+Botanical Gardens. They were more beautiful than ever in the afternoon
+light, and I saw many things which had escaped my notice before. I
+have made acquaintance with the taste of all sorts of new fruits while
+here, more than in our former journey; but this is to be explained by
+the proximity of the Botanical Gardens. I expected to revel in fruit
+all through the tropics, but, except at Tahiti, we have not done so at
+all. There is one great merit in tropical fruit, which is, that
+however hot the sun may be, when plucked from the tree it is always
+icy cold; if left for a few minutes, however, it becomes as hot as
+the surrounding atmosphere, and the charm is gone.
+
+On my return, when I went to dress for dinner, I found on my table a
+nasty-looking black beast about six inches long. It looked very
+formidable in the half-light, like a scorpion or centipede. It turned
+out, however, to be quite harmless, and a sort of millipede, and
+rather handsome, with jet-black rings, and hundreds of orange-coloured
+legs. There are a great many venomous snakes in Ceylon, but they
+always get out of the way as fast as they can, and never bite
+Europeans. All the roofs of the thatched bungalows swarm with rats,
+and in every house is kept a rat-snake, which kills and eats these
+rats. I more than once heard a great scuffle going on over my bedroom,
+which generally ended in a little squeak, indicating that the snake
+had killed, and was about to eat, his prey. One of the snakes came out
+one day in front of my window, and hung down two or three feet from
+the roof. If I had not been previously assured that he was perfectly
+harmless, it would have been rather an alarming apparition in the
+dark, and, even as it was, I must confess that for a moment I did feel
+rather frightened as I watched him spying about, darting his forked
+tongue in and out, and looking quite ready for a spring at my face.
+
+_Thursday, April 5th_.--Another early start by the seven o'clock train
+to Colombo. We were very sorry to say good-bye to our kind host, and
+when we took our departure, we were quite laden with flowers, good
+wishes, and messages for mutual friends in England. It was rather a
+hot journey down, and the train seemed full, but the scenery was
+lovely. As we approached Colombo the heat became greater, and in the
+town itself it was almost insupportable.
+
+We breakfasted at the hotel in the fort, where we were joined by Tom.
+There is one very curious thing about the hotels here. The
+sitting-rooms are all two stories high, with pointed raftered roofs.
+The bedrooms are only screened off from each other, and from the
+central room, by partitions eight or ten feet high, so that you can
+hear everything going on from end to end of the building. I am not at
+all sure that the larger amount of ventilation secured by this plan
+compensates for the extra amount of noise and want of privacy,
+especially when, as was the case to-day, there is a crying baby who
+refuses to be pacified in one of the rooms, a poor little girl ill
+with whooping cough in another, and some very noisy people, who are
+making themselves both unhappy and cross over some lost keys, in a
+third.
+
+While we were at breakfast the crows were most amusing and
+impertinent. Every door and window was open, and they were perched on
+the top of the punkah, or on the iron crossbars supporting the roof,
+watching their opportunity to pounce down and carry off the bits left
+on our plates. They did not seem to mind the waiters a bit, and, with
+their heads cocked on one side, looked as droll and saucy as possible.
+People tell you all sorts of funny stories about them; but though they
+are very entertaining to watch, and apparently perfectly tame, it
+appears to be impossible to capture one alive.
+
+By the time breakfast was over, we found that the 'Sunbeam' was
+already under way, and steaming about the anchorage; so it was not
+long before we were once more on board. Going out of harbour we passed
+a large steamer whose passengers and crew cheered us and waved their
+handkerchiefs until we were out of sight, and with that pleasant
+homely sound ringing in our ears we bade a last farewell to Colombo,
+and started on another stage of our homeward voyage. The heat was
+intense, and there was a roll outside which at once made me feel very
+uncomfortable. There was no wind all the afternoon, and the sun sank
+into the sea, glorious and golden, as we took our last look at the
+lovely island of Ceylon, the land of spice and fragrance and beauty.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+
+TO ADEN.
+
+    _Heaven speed the canvas, gallantly unfurled_
+    _To furnish and accommodate a world,_
+    _To give the Pole the produce of the sun,_
+    _And knit the unsocial climates into one._
+
+_Friday, April 6th_.--Our visit to Ceylon has been so delightful that
+I wish it could have been prolonged for a month, instead of lasting
+only a week; but in that case I should have preferred to select a
+cooler season of the year, when travelling is more practicable. A most
+interesting journey could be made through the centre of the island to
+see the ancient cities, temples, and tanks, over the road from Matelle
+to Nalandi Senadoora, to the curious rock temple at Dambool, near
+which is the fortified rock of Sigiri, and a few miles further are the
+vast ruins of Topari, or Ponamira, the mediaeval capital of Ceylon. It
+is full of wonderful ruins, some of them among the oldest in the
+world. The Ranhol Dagoba, the Jayti Wana Rama, and the Galle Wihara
+and rock temple, carved out of the living rock, are alone worth a long
+journey to see. Then think of visiting Anajapoora, the city of rubies,
+the sacred capital of the kingdom of ruins, on whose splendours even
+the Chinese travellers of the early ages used to expatiate with
+fervour. From this point it would be easy to reach the peninsula of
+Jaffna, which has been peopled with Tammils for more than two thousand
+years. It is the country _par excellence_ of gardens exquisitely kept,
+and skilfully irrigated on the old Moorish system. Here are grown all
+the ingredients for the making of curry, which are sent to all parts
+of this island and to Southern India. The most important crop of all,
+however, is tobacco, whose excellence is famed throughout India, and
+of which the Rajah of Travancore holds the monopoly.
+
+Then one might go southward from Jaffna, past Aripo, and the Gulf of
+Calpentyn, until the curious reef of Adam's Bridge was reached, which
+almost connects Ceylon with India. People say it has been separated by
+some convulsion of nature in former days, and that the passage is
+gradually deepening; but recent examinations have shown that instead
+of being a remnant of the original rock by which Ceylon is supposed to
+have been once connected with the Indian continent, it is in reality a
+comparatively recent ridge of conglomerate and ironstone, covered with
+alluvial deposits carried by the current and heaped up at this
+particular point; whilst the gradual rising of the coast has
+contributed to give the reef its present altitude.
+
+Balchus tells a most improbable story of fifteen Portuguese frigates
+escaping through the passage of Panupam, when pursued by some Dutch
+cruisers in 1557. Formerly the Straits were only thirty-five yards
+wide, with a maximum depth of six feet of water, but lately they have
+been widened and deepened by ten feet, and a little Government steamer
+frequently passes through on a tour round the island. At present a
+sailing ship going from Bombay to Madras has to make a curve of five
+thousand miles in order to weather the Maldives and Ceylon. It seems a
+long course for any vessel drawing over ten feet of water to be
+obliged to take.
+
+In the centre of the channel there is a little island where a Dutch
+establishment for horse-breeding formerly stood, the original stud
+having been imported from Arabia. The horses were all turned into
+corrals and caught by means of lassos, and then conquered by
+domidores, exactly as they are at the present day in South America.
+Now the stud is dispersed, the buildings are in ruins, and all that
+remains is the Indian pagoda, where religious ceremonies, curious
+processions, and dances of nautch-girls occasionally take place and
+are attended by great crowds. To the southward again of Adam's Bridge
+is the celebrated Gulf of Manaar, from which the best pearls come.
+
+This is an exceptionally good year for pearls, and the price of the
+shells went up many rupees per thousand in the first week. The pearl
+fishery can be reached in about eight hours by steam from Colombo, and
+it would have been delightful to have visited it, had time permitted.
+We were shown an oyster with some beautiful pearls in it, all found in
+the one shell. When a boat with pearls reaches the shore, the shells
+are divided into equal heaps, one-fourth going to the boat's crew, and
+three-fourths to the Government Inspector. They keep whichever heap he
+chooses to kick; so that, being uncertain which they will get for
+themselves, the boat's crew are sure to make a fair division. These
+heaps are then divided and sold by auction in thousands, and then
+subdivided again and again. Of course it is always a matter of
+speculation as to whether you get good pearls, bad pearls, or no
+pearls at all, though this last misfortune seldom happens.
+
+The love of gambling is inherent in every Oriental mind, and the
+merest beggar with but a few pice in his wallet to buy his daily food
+will invest them in a small number of oyster-shells, hoping to find a
+pearl of great value; and, should he fail to do so, he contents
+himself with eating the oyster and hoping for better luck next time.
+The shells are generally left on the sand in carefully guarded heaps
+till they die and open, when the pearls are extracted, and the fish
+left to decay. Some of the oysters are taken in sealed-up sacks to
+Colombo, Kandy, and other inland places, in order to enable people to
+indulge their love of gambling and speculation, without the trouble of
+a journey to Manaar. Though called oysters, they are not the proper
+oyster, but a sort of avicula (_Meleagrina margaritifera_ being the
+name given by Samarik), very different from the large mother-of-pearl
+shells in which the South Sea pearls are found.
+
+I have not been able to keep my mind from running incessantly on Sir
+Emerson Tennent's delightful book on Ceylon, which describes places we
+have not ourselves visited, but which I wanted very much to see, and I
+have been so interested reading about them that I cannot help thinking
+other people will share my feelings. It seems wonderful that so much
+which is strange, beautiful, and interesting should be so easy of
+access from England, and yet that so few English travellers know
+comparatively anything of Ceylon, except Galle and Colombo, and
+perhaps Kandy and Trincomalee.
+
+_Saturday, April 7th_.--To-day we passed close to the island of
+Minnikoy, between the groups of islands called the Laccadives and
+Maldives, some of which we saw dotting the horizon; and still further
+to the south stretches the Chagos Archipelago. It was very hot all
+day, with hardly a breath of air, and we have all returned to our
+former light and airy costumes: the gentlemen to their shirts and
+trousers, the children to their pinafores and nothing else, and I to
+my beloved Tahitian dresses.
+
+Before we left England we could not make ourselves believe what we
+were told about heat in the tropics; so we started with very few
+windsails and without any punkahs or double awnings. It was all very
+well in the Atlantic or Pacific, but between Hongkong and Singapore
+the state of things became simply unbearable. The carpenter has rigged
+up a punkah, and the men have improvised some double awnings. At
+Colombo they made some windsails, so we are now better off than on our
+last hot voyage. It has been really hotter than ever to-day, but a
+pleasant breeze sprang up in the afternoon.
+
+_Sunday, April 8th_.--A delightful fresh morning after a cool night.
+Everybody looks quite different, and we begin to hope we shall carry
+the north-east monsoon right across, which would be an exceptional
+piece of good fortune. We had service in the saloon at eleven o'clock
+and at four, and though there was an unusually full attendance it was
+cool and pleasant even without the punkah. The thermometer registers
+nearly the same as it did on Friday, when we were all dead with the
+heat. The apparently nice cool breeze that refreshes our heated bodies
+does not produce any corresponding effect on the glassy surface of the
+ocean; for we find to-day, as on previous occasions, that the
+temperature, both of the water and of the air, registered by the
+thermometer, does not by any means correspond with the effect on the
+human frame.
+
+The two Chinese servants we shipped at Hongkong are a great success,
+as every one on board agrees. Even the old sailing master is obliged
+to confess that the two 'heathen Chinee' keep the mess rooms, ships'
+officers' and servants' berths much cleaner and more comfortable than
+his own sailors ever succeeded in doing. At Galle we shipped three
+black firemen, two from Bombay and one from Mozambique, a regular
+nigger, with his black woolly hair clipped into the shape of Prince of
+Wales feathers. Their names are Mahomet, Abraham, and Tom Dollar. They
+live in a little tent we have had pitched for them on deck, cook their
+own food, and do their work in the engine-room exceedingly well. In
+the intervals they are highly amused with the children's picture
+books. The picture of the durbar at Delhi delighted them, especially
+as they recognised the figures, and learned a little English through
+them. They can say a few words already, and have told me all about
+their wives and children at Mozambique and Bombay, and have shown me
+the presents they are taking home to them. They have been nearly a
+year on board the P. and O. steamship 'Poonah,' and appear to have
+saved nearly all their earnings. I do not suppose our own men could
+have stood the fearful heat below in the engine-room for many days
+together, so it was fortunate we met with these amiable salamanders.
+
+_Monday, April, 9th_.--No wind. We passed through a large shoal of
+porpoises, and at dusk we saw the light of a distant ship. At all the
+places we have recently visited we have found excellent ice-making
+machines, and have been able to get a sufficient supply to last us
+from port to port, which has been a great comfort. The machine at
+Colombo unfortunately broke down the day before we left, so that in
+the very hottest part of our voyage we have had to do without our
+accustomed luxury; and very much we miss it, not only for cooling our
+drinks, but for keeping provisions, &c. As it is, a sheep killed
+overnight is not good for dinner next day; butter is just like oil,
+and to-day in opening a drawer my fingers touched a sticky mess; I
+looked and discovered six sticks of sealing wax running slowly about
+in a state resembling treacle.
+
+_Wednesday, April 11th_.--Hotter than ever. We could see a steamer in
+the far distance. About sunset we passed through a shoal of
+flying-fish; the night was intensely hot, and everybody slept on deck.
+
+_Friday, April 13th_.--At 6 a.m. we made the island of Sokotra, and
+about seven o'clock saw 'The Brothers,' two islands where large
+quantities of turtle and ambergris are found. Though generally
+uninhabited, they are sometimes visited by the natives for the purpose
+of collecting articles of commerce.
+
+One of our large pigs took it into his head to jump overboard to-day.
+The helm was put round as quickly as possible, but the most anxious
+spying could not discover any trace of poor piggy's whereabouts; so we
+proceeded on our original course for a few minutes, when suddenly, to
+our great astonishment, we saw him alongside, having been nearly run
+down, but still gallantly swimming along. The dingy was lowered and
+two men sent in pursuit. They had, however, no easy task before them,
+for as soon as they approached, piggy swam away faster than they could
+row, and bit and fought most furiously when they tried to get him into
+the boat. It was a good half-hour's work before he was secured, yet
+when he arrived he did not appear to be in the least exhausted by his
+long swim, but bit and barked at everybody so furiously that he was
+condemned to death, to prevent the possibility of further accidents.
+It is quite clear from the foregoing incident that some pigs can swim,
+and swim very well too, without cutting their own throats in the
+process.
+
+All the afternoon a large steamer had been gradually gaining on us. We
+exchanged signals and made out that she was the 'Calypso' (?) of
+Glasgow. About half-past five she altered her course and came
+alongside to speak us. The fore-deck was crowded with the crew. On the
+bridge were many of the officers; and sitting bolt upright on a stool,
+'looking out forward' in the most amusing manner, was the captain's
+little Skye terrier. The stern was crowded with passengers, of every
+shade of colour. To our surprise a voice from among them shouted out
+'Three cheers for Mr. Brassey!' which was responded to by ringing
+shouts from all on board, and taken up again by some of our own men.
+It was a very pleasant and unexpected greeting to hear in the middle
+of the Indian Ocean. The ship soon drew ahead again, but handkerchiefs
+and caps were waved till their owners faded away into the distance.
+Meeting and passing thousands of people as you at home do daily, you
+can hardly understand the excitement a little incident like this
+causes on board ship, where even a distant sail in these lonely oceans
+makes everybody leave his occupation and crowd to look at her. Soon
+after sunset we saw the island of Abd-al-Kuri, with its fantastic
+peaks, melting into orange, gold, and purple tints, beneath the
+gorgeous Arabian afterglow.
+
+_Saturday, April 14th_.--We made Cape Rasalhir, formerly called
+Guardafui, about nine o'clock yesterday evening, and passing it during
+the night entered the Gulf of Aden.[21] All to-day we have been going
+along the Soumali coast. There is a good deal of trade carried on in
+native boats. Passing all these strange and comparatively unknown and
+little-visited islands and coasts, from which all sorts of things in
+daily use at home are brought, one dimly realises what commerce means
+and how necessary one part of the world is to the other.
+
+[Footnote 21: We found considerable difficulty in making the light,
+and since our return there have been several wrecks, and many lives
+lost, on this dangerous point.]
+
+_Sunday, April 15th_.--Still intensely hot. The usual services were
+held on deck at eleven and four o'clock. The land, both in Arabia and
+in Africa, could be seen the whole day, with precipitous mountains. In
+the afternoon we could make out the rock of Aden, and at sunset it
+stood grandly forth, looming in purple darkness against the crimson
+and blood-red sky, which gradually faded to tenderest tints of yellow
+and green, before it finally blazed forth into a radiant afterglow. At
+half-past eight a gun from the fort at Aden summoned us to show our
+colours, or rather lights. At nine o'clock we dropped our anchor in
+the roads; a boat came off with a bag of newspapers and to ask for
+orders in the morning. It was sent by the great Parsee merchants here,
+who undertake to supply us with coals, provisions, water, and
+everything we want, and spare us all trouble. For the last three or
+four days we have had a nice little breeze astern, and if we had not
+been in a hurry to cross the Indian Ocean before the south-west
+monsoon set in, we should certainly have been contented with four or
+five knots an hour under sail instead of eight and a half under steam.
+We have averaged over 200 miles a day under steam alone, ever since we
+left Penang, and have burnt only four tons of coal for every fifty
+miles.
+
+_Monday, April 16th_.--At 1.30 a.m. I heard the signal gun fired, and
+shortly afterwards a great splash of boats and oars, and a vast
+chattering and shouting of tongues announced the arrival of a P. and
+O. steamer. She dropped her anchor just outside us, so we had the
+benefit of the noise all night. I got up at daylight and found the
+pilot just coming off. He took us to a buoy, a little closer in, and
+soon the business of coaling and watering commenced.
+
+[Illustration: Soumali Indian, Aden.]
+
+We reached the shore about 7.30, and, landing at the pier, had our
+first near view of the natives, who are most curious-looking
+creatures. They have very black complexions, and long woolly hair,
+setting out like a mop all round, and generally dyed bright red, or
+yellow by the application of lime. Mr. Cowajee had sent his own
+private carriage to meet us. It was a comfortable open barouche, with
+a pair of nice horses, and two servants in Eastern liveries, green
+vests and full trousers, and red and orange turbans. We went first to
+his store, which seemed to be an emporium for every conceivable
+article. There was carved sandal-wood, and embroidered shawls from
+China, Surat, and Gujerat, work from India, English medicines, French
+lamps, Swiss clocks, German toys, Russian caviare, Greek lace,
+Havannah cigars, American hides and canned fruits, besides many other
+things. The feathers did not look very tempting; there was a great
+deal of feather and very little stem about most of them, and only a
+few were white, the majority being a pretty sort of brown and drab.
+But this general store is only a very small part of their business,
+for about 60,000 tons of coal pass through their hands every year.
+
+We went on to the Hotel de l'Europe, which was by no means in
+first-rate order, but allowances must be made for a new house. A
+delightful breeze was blowing in through the open windows, and
+although the thermometer registered 85 deg. in the dining-room, it did not
+seem at all hot. The view over the bay is very pretty, and the scene
+on shore thoroughly Arabian, with the donkeys and camels patiently
+carrying their heavy loads, guided by the true Bedaween of the desert,
+and people of all tinges of complexion, from jet black to pale copper
+colour. A pair of tame ostriches, at least seven feet high, were
+strolling about the roadway, and a gazelle, some monkeys, parrots, and
+birds lived happily together beneath a broad verandah. After a little
+while we went for a drive to see the camp and town of Aden, which is
+four or five miles from the Point where everybody lands. On the way we
+met trains of heavily laden camels bringing in wood, water, grain, and
+fodder, for garrison consumption, and coffee and spices for
+exportation. After driving for about four miles we reached a gallery
+pierced through the rock, which admits you into the precincts of the
+fort. The entrance is very narrow, the sides precipitous, and the
+place apparently impregnable. We went all through the town, or rather
+towns, past the Arab village, the Sepoy barracks, and the European
+barracks, to the water tanks, stupendous works carved out of the solid
+rock, but until lately comparatively neglected, the residents
+depending entirely on distillation for their supply of water. There is
+a pretty little garden at the foot of the lowest tank, but the heat
+was intense in the bottom of the deep valley amongst the rocks, where
+every sun-ray seemed to be collected and reflected from the white
+glaring limestone, and every breath of air to be excluded. We saw a
+little more of the town and the market crowded with camels, the shops
+full of lion, leopard, and hyaena skins. We went to the officers'
+mess-house, visited the Protestant and Roman Catholic churches and
+the Mohammedan mosque, and then passing through two long tunnels,
+bored and blasted in the solid rock, we looked over the
+fortifications. Finally, we returned to the Point again by way of the
+Isthmus, and went to Government House, which gets a fresh breeze from
+every quarter. They say that to-day is hotter than usual, but it is
+never really very oppressive here unless there is an exceptionally hot
+wind blowing from the desert, but even that is partially cooled before
+it arrives. To us it appears delightful after our sultry voyage and
+the heat at Penang and Singapore.
+
+We are all agreeably disappointed with Aden, and find that it is by no
+means the oven we expected; it is prettier too than I thought, the
+mountains and rocks are so peaked and pointed, and although the
+general effect is one of barrenness, still, if you look closely, every
+crack and crevice is full of something green. The soil, being of
+volcanic origin, is readily fertilised by moisture, and at once
+produces some kind of vegetation. This adds of course greatly to the
+effect of colour, which in the rocks themselves is extremely
+beautiful, especially at sunrise and sunset. The sea, too, is
+delightfully blue on one side of the peninsula, and pale green on the
+other, according to the wind, and the white surf curls and breaks on
+the sandy shore beyond the crisp waves.
+
+We went back to the hotel a little before one, and found many friends
+had called during our absence. After superintending the children's
+dinner, I went with Tom to luncheon at Government House. It was very
+pleasant; General and Mrs. Schneider were more than kind, and the
+house felt deliciously cool and airy.
+
+We are told that thirty miles inland the country is sometimes very
+beautiful. There are exquisitely green valleys, with a stream running
+through them, amongst peaks, and rocky mountains, which one rarely
+sees in the desert. Here the natives cultivate their crops of
+corn--such corn as it is too, reaching six feet above a man's head!
+All sorts of useful vegetables grow abundantly, besides roses, fruits,
+and fragrant flowers, large supplies of which are brought daily into
+Aden. About ten miles from the town there are acres of the most
+fertile garden ground, which is cultivated to supply the garrison with
+vegetables. Sometimes a party of seventy or eighty men, and ten or
+twenty Arab guides, goes out for three weeks or a month at a time
+surveying. The natives are much more friendly than they used to be a
+few years ago, when people were afraid even to ride outside the town.
+Now pleasant excursions lasting a few days may be made, especially as
+there is very fair shooting to be got. After luncheon I was shown some
+lovely feathers. The contrast between these and the steamer-feathers
+is ludicrous; the price, too, is proportionately cheaper, for the
+feathers are infinitely better. Long, white, full, and curly feathers
+can be bought for much less than you give for them in England. We drove
+down to the town, finished our business transactions, and then went in
+the 'Vestal's' steam launch on board the 'Gamma,' one of the new
+Chinese gunboats on her way out to China.
+
+After afternoon tea we all adjourned to the 'Sunbeam,' where we found
+many other friends already arrived or arriving. We had only just time
+to look round before the sun set, and the short twilight was succeeded
+by the swift tropical darkness. All too soon good-bye had to be said;
+the anchor was raised, and we were actually drifting slowly along
+under our head canvas before our friends took their departure. It was
+a lovely evening, with a light fair breeze, and although there
+appeared hardly any wind, it was wonderful how swiftly we crept out of
+the harbour, and, as sail after sail was spread, how rapidly we glided
+past the land.
+
+Our visit to Aden has been short but very agreeable; it is not by any
+means such a dreadful place as we had always fancied. Most of the
+people we have seen to-day seem rather to like it; there is good
+boating, excellent sea fishing, moderate shooting, and many rides and
+excursions. A vehicle of some sort is an absolute necessity, however,
+if you want to see anything of your friends, for the three divisions
+of the settlement are at least four miles apart, and the heat is far
+too great for driving or riding in the middle of the day, except on
+business. I cannot say, however, that we ourselves found it
+intolerably hot to-day.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+TO SUEZ.
+
+                               _Round the decay_
+    _Of that colossal wreck; boundless and bare_
+    _The lone and level sands stretch far away._
+
+_Tuesday, April 17th_.--The breeze still continued and freshened, and
+we sailed along pleasantly before it, finding it a great relief to be
+rid of the thud and beat of the engine. There is no vibration, but the
+noise is unpleasant. About eleven o'clock we passed the island of
+Perim, a most desolate-looking place. I do not wonder that officers so
+much dislike being quartered there. It is an important position
+though, and is shortly to be strengthened, when water-tanks will be
+built, and attempts made to cultivate the soil. At present there does
+not appear to be a blade of vegetation, and on the side we passed,
+between the island and the coast of Arabia, nothing is to be seen but
+the little white lighthouse and the path leading up to it. On the
+southern side there is a very fair harbour and a moderate town. On the
+shore all round the island turtles are caught at the season when they
+land to deposit their eggs. To pass the island of Perim we sailed
+through the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, or 'Gate of Tears,' thus called
+on account of the numerous wrecks which took place there in former
+years. Once through the straits, we were fairly in the Red Sea. The
+colour of the Red Sea is certainly the bluest of ultramarines. In the
+afternoon the town of Mocha Yamen, celebrated alike for its breed of
+Arab horses and its coffee, was visible from the masthead. It is a
+large white town, full of cupolas and minarets, surrounded with green
+as far as irrigation extends, and looking like a pearl set in emeralds
+on the margin of the deep blue sea against a background of red and
+yellow sand-mountains. Later in the afternoon we passed Great and
+Little Hamish, where the P. and O. boat, 'Alma,' was wrecked some
+fifteen years ago, and during the night sailed by Jebel Zibayar and
+Tukar.
+
+[Illustration: Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb.]
+
+_Wednesday, April 18th_.--In the morning, at daylight, we were off
+Jebel Teir, Mussawa Island, Annesley Bay lying 60 miles to the west.
+Our position was about 60 miles to the south-west of Mussawa Zoulia,
+where the expedition under Lord Napier of Magdala landed in 1867. At
+noon we had sailed 221 miles, a most unexpected run in the Red Sea. In
+the afternoon it fell calm, but the wind freshened again, and we went
+on sailing until after midnight.
+
+_Thursday, April 19th_.--We commenced steaming at 1 a.m., stopped,
+however, at 5 a.m., and sailed all day. Yesterday we were surrounded
+by some beautiful blue birds, who hovered about us and settled at
+intervals on the masts and yards. During the night two were caught
+napping by the men, and in the course of to-day two more, hotly
+pursued by a hawk, took refuge on board and were also captured. One
+was given to me. It appears to be a very beautiful kind of jay, with
+feathers of the most brilliant shades of blue. The men have killed
+their birds for the sake of the skins, but I mean to try and keep mine
+alive. At Colombo several birds and two curiously starred tortoises
+were added to our collection; and we took on board at Aden a gazelle,
+a black cockatoo, and a green monkey.
+
+We passed Souakim to-day, the port of Nubia. It is about 275 miles, or
+25 days' camel-journey, from thence to Berber on the Nile. The road
+passes through Korib, and among fine red granite and black basalt
+mountains, 4,000 feet high. We left one of the firemen, Tom Dollar,
+behind at Aden by mistake, and only found out yesterday that we had
+done so. It appears that he has a brother living there, whom he was
+most anxious to go and see directly the anchor was let go, in the
+morning. Unfortunately, he did not speak to us on the subject. He had
+never been in anything but a regular steamer before, and could not
+believe it possible that the 'Sunbeam' could spread her wings and be
+off without any preliminary 'fire-worshipping,' I am very sorry for
+the poor man, as he has left all his clothes and the wages he had
+earned on board the P. and O. steamer behind him. We must send them
+back from Suez, and telegraph to some one to look out for him. The
+heat is intense, and we all sleep on deck at night; the sunrises and
+sunsets are magnificent.
+
+_Friday, April 20th_.--A little hotter still; there is no wind at all,
+and we are obliged to steam. In the morning we passed to the southward
+of Jeddo, the port of Mecca. Unfortunately it was so hazy that we
+could not distinguish anything whatever of the town or country, only a
+line of mountains rearing their heads above the clouds. We had hoped
+to be at Suez early on Sunday, but now I fear we shall not arrive
+until Monday.
+
+_Saturday, April 21st_.--Hotter and still hotter every day, says the
+thermometer, and so we say also. Everybody told us these would be our
+two hottest days, and certainly the prediction has been verified. We
+did not see a single ship all day, but in the afternoon passed Zambo,
+the port of Medina. A little before midnight we made the light on the
+Daedalus shoal on the starboard bow.
+
+This being Muriel's fifth birthday, Mabelle and the doctor and the men
+have been arranging a surprise for her all day, and none of us were
+allowed to go on the port side of the deck, but after dinner we were
+taken to a hastily fitted-up theatre, very prettily decorated with
+flags and Japanese lanterns. On a throne covered with the Union Jack,
+Muriel was seated, the two pugs being on footstools on either side of
+her to represent lions _couchant_. Some of the men had blackened their
+faces, and gave us a really very excellent Christy Minstrel
+entertainment, in which undreamed-of talent came to light. It is very
+odd and interesting how one is perpetually finding out something new
+about the men. Some of the crew we thought the most unpromising when
+we started, have turned out among our best men, always ready and
+willing for everything, while others, who at first appeared the best,
+have not proved so good. Many we knew well beforehand. On the whole,
+however, we have very little cause to complain of our crew; all pull
+well together when they are kept up to their work and have plenty to
+do.
+
+_Sunday, April 22nd_.--Clouds veiled the sunrise this morning, which
+was a welcome relief; still it was too hot for service in the saloon,
+and it was therefore held on deck. A light breeze sprang up ahead
+during its performance, which cooled and refreshed us immensely. About
+twelve o'clock we passed another pair of 'Brothers,' a couple of
+odd-looking rocks or islands, like tables, rising straight out of the
+sea; there is a beacon on the northernmost one. While we were at
+lunch, the breeze freshened so much that we were all glad to add some
+wraps to our light and airy costumes. A little later, a summer gale
+was blowing ahead, making some of us feel very uncomfortable and long
+for the halcyon days of the past, even with the accompaniment of the
+inevitable heat. Such is mankind, and womankind too for that matter,
+'never blessed but always to be blessed.' The gale freshened, the
+screw was raised, the yacht pitched and rolled, and we were obliged to
+put her off her course and under sail before night fell. The spray
+came over the decks, and there was a strong wind dead ahead. We all
+felt cold and miserable, though the thermometer still registered 75 deg..
+The poor monkeys and parrots looked most wretched and unhappy, and had
+to be packed away as speedily as possible. Nine monkeys in an empty
+wine case seemed very happy and cuddled together for warmth, but the
+two larger and more aristocratic members of the party required a box
+to themselves. The gazelle had a little tent pitched for him specially
+in a sheltered corner, and the birds were all stowed away and battened
+over in the smoking fiddle. Dinner was rather a lame pretence, and it
+was not long before we all retired, and certainly no one wished to
+take his or her mattress on deck to-night. It is the first night I
+have slept in a bed on board the yacht for many weeks, and a very
+disturbed night it was, for the waves ran high, and we have lately
+been sailing so steadily over smooth seas, that we did not know what
+to make of this.
+
+_Monday, April 23rd_.--The gale blew as hard as ever, and quite as
+dead ahead. About noon we made the island of Shaduan, or isle of
+Seals, so named by the ancients, when the sea and gulf abounded with
+seals. There are still a few occasionally to be seen to the northward
+by the fishermen, and their skins are brought to Suez for sale. We are
+making tacks backwards and forwards across the narrow sea, an exciting
+amusement for a yachtsman, as it requires constant attention. The
+sailing directions say that this sea is ill surveyed, except in the
+direct channel. There are many coral reefs and sunken rocks, and on
+whichever side you may happen to be wrecked, the natives are ready to
+rob, ill-treat, and kill you, or sell you as slaves in the interior.
+It was on two projecting coral reefs from the island of Shaduan, that
+the 'Carnatic' was wrecked in 1869. She ran ashore at four o'clock in
+the morning of the 13th of September, soon after having made the light
+on Rhas Garril. We were at Suez in October of the same year, and
+everybody was then full of the sad particulars of the wreck, the
+soldiers being especially useful in bringing in the passengers'
+luggage, which had been recovered from the Arabs. One of our firemen,
+Abraham, was on board the 'Carnatic' at the time of the disaster, and
+lost all his worldly goods (not many, I should think, judging by what
+he has brought on board here).
+
+The sea was very rough and disagreeable all day. To us the temperature
+appears quite cool, indeed cold, though the thermometer still remains
+at 75 deg.. Our friends at Aden, who prophesied that I should want my
+sealskin jacket before leaving the Gulf of Suez, were not so far wrong
+in their prognostications as I imagined at the time.
+
+_Tuesday, April 24th_.--We are still beating to windward against a
+head gale, and by noon had made sixty-five miles to the good, right in
+the wind's eye--not a bad performance, considering that the gale was
+blowing with a force of nine or ten. It has the merit of novelty too,
+for I suppose that for years no sailing ships have been seen in the
+Gulf of Suez. The winds blow so steadily for months together, that for
+six months in the year you cannot get into the Red Sea, and for the
+other six months you cannot get out of it.
+
+We passed the island of Rhas Garril, and soon afterwards a steamer
+went by, altering her course a good deal to inspect us. She evidently
+thought we were a broken-down steamer, and intended to come to our
+rescue. All yesterday and to-day we have been making flannel coats for
+the monkey, and covers for birdcages, and improvising shelters and
+snug corners for our pets. At night especially the wind is quite
+crisp. If this gale continues, it will be Thursday or Friday before we
+reach Suez; but it may possibly change to-night, and it looks now as
+if it were breaking.
+
+[Illustration: Beating up the Red Sea.]
+
+_Wednesday, April 25th_.--At last the gale _has_ broken. There was not
+much wind when I went on deck at 4 a.m., and by seven o'clock it was
+so nearly calm, that the funnel could be raised and fires lighted, and
+we were soon steaming straight for our destination. We could not see
+Mount Sinai on account of the mist, but made out the place where the
+Israelites are said to have crossed the Red Sea, and by four o'clock
+the town of Suez lay right ahead. The shores are very barren, not a
+blade of grass nor a scrap of vegetation being visible. Nothing is to
+be seen save mountain peaks, rocks, stones, and sand. But even this
+barren scene has a special beauty of its own, particularly at sunrise
+and sunset. The shapes of mountain and rock are alike striking, the
+sharp shadows are lovely, and the contrast of reds, yellows, and
+browns, with the bright blue sea and crisp white waves, is very
+beautiful. Even when the sun has set, and the rich tints have faded
+away, the full moon adds another charm to the landscape.
+
+This afternoon, as we were steaming up towards Suez, I had a chat with
+Mahomet, one of our Indian firemen, who was fringing a piece of muslin
+for a turban. I asked him if it was English. 'No, Missy; no
+English--Switzerland; English no good; all gum and sticky stuff; make
+fingers dirty; all wash out; leave nothing.' In the South Sea and
+Sandwich Islands, and in the Malay Peninsula, the natives make the
+same complaints as to the Manchester cottons. At Hongkong some of the
+large shops had fifty expensive English ships' compasses on hand; they
+were all quite unsaleable owing to the liquid having gone bad, in
+consequence of its not having been properly prepared. Some American
+compasses of the same quality were in good order and not in the least
+affected by the climate. It will be a bad day when the confidence in
+England's honesty as a nation throughout the world, and consequently
+her well-earned supremacy in commerce, have passed away. The burden,
+unfortunately, will not fall on the heads of the offenders alone, but,
+as usual, the innocent will suffer with and for the guilty.
+
+After four o'clock we came near two steamers lying at anchor, and were
+shortly afterwards boarded by the captain of the port, the health
+officer, and sundry other functionaries. After a short delay we
+dropped anchor, and just as the sun was setting in 'purple and gold'
+behind the mountains of Arabia, we went ashore in the steam launch. We
+landed at the Canal Company's Office, in front of which there is a
+bust of Lieutenant Waghorn, the inaugurator of the overland route.
+
+At the office, the 'Sunbeam' was entered on the Company's books, and
+arrangements were made with the chief pilot for to-morrow, while the
+children amused themselves by riding a pony up and down, and jumping
+over the little brooks, and I strolled about admiring the enormous
+growth of the vegetation since we were here last in 1869. We next
+steamed five miles further on to the town of Suez, and landed opposite
+the big hotel, which is more uncomfortable than ever. The rooms are
+dirty, and the cooking execrable.
+
+There is nothing to see at Suez, but still we went for a ramble to see
+that nothing. We cleared our boxes and our letters, and then went on
+ankle deep in sand to the one European house, the railway station, the
+Arab quarter and the bazaars, where it is occasionally possible to
+pick up rather interesting little curiosities brought by the pilgrims
+from Mecca and Medina.
+
+_Thursday, April 26th_.--Such a sunrise as this morning's you could
+only see in Arabia or Egypt. There is a peculiarity about desert
+colouring at sunrise and sunset that can never be seen anywhere else.
+We had sundry visitors during the early morning, and before ten
+o'clock we were in the Canal and steaming on at regulation speed. As
+the sun rose the heat became intense, 96 deg. in the shade under double
+awnings. So far from there being a cool breeze to temper it, a hot
+wind blew from the desert, like the blast from a furnace. I stood on
+the bridge as long as I could bear the heat, to look at the strange
+desert view, which could be seen to great advantage in going through
+at the top of high water. Sand, sand everywhere; here a train of
+camels, there a few Arab tents, now a whole party shifting their place
+of abode; a group of women washing, or a drove of buffaloes in a small
+tributary stream. After going about eight miles we stopped at a _gare_
+(as the stopping-places are called) to allow three vessels to pass.
+One was a fine steamer belonging to the Ducal Line; the others were a
+Dutch and a German boat (one, the Friesland, has been since wrecked
+off Cape Finisterre, in December 1877). The cleanliness and general
+smartness of the former presented a great contrast to her companions,
+on which the passengers looked very hot and uncomfortable. The centre
+part of each vessel was crowded with a large number of Dutch or German
+boys, going out as soldiers to Acheen, who certainly did not appear to
+be enjoying their voyage.
+
+We passed Chaloux and reached Ismailia just at nine o'clock, not
+without considerable effort on the part of the pilot. A steam launch
+came off from the shore, and we (children and all) landed at once;
+and, after a moonlight donkey ride, dined at the excellent Hotel de
+Paris, kept by an old Frenchman. _Table-d'hote_ was over, but they
+gave us a capital little dinner by ourselves. The children and I, and
+some of the gentlemen, start to-morrow, overland _via_ Cairo, to join
+the yacht at Alexandria, in order that they may see the Pyramids. It
+was a glorious night as we rowed off to the yacht under the bright
+beams of the full moon, and the air, too, was quite fresh and cool--a
+most refreshing change from the noontide heat.
+
+The traffic on the Canal has increased during the last few years, and
+especially during the last few months; on an average four or five
+ships passed through every day. To-day they took 6,000_l_. at the Suez
+Office alone. They have an excellent plan of the Canal there, and
+little models of ships, which are arranged according to the telegrams
+constantly received, so that the chief officers at each end of the
+Canal know exactly where every ship is. Instant information is of
+course sent of any stoppage or any accident, but these occur
+comparatively seldom. Some time ago M. Lesseps bought a small canal
+partially stopped up leading from the Nile at Cairo to Ismailia. It
+has been widened and deepened, and was opened a few weeks ago with
+great ceremony and grand doings. Now any vessel not drawing more than
+fourteen feet can go direct from Suez or Port Said to Cairo. If we had
+had time, we might have done it in the yacht, and lain at anchor
+almost under the shadow of the Pyramids of Cheops. The special object
+of the new canal is to make Cairo and Ismailia Egyptian ports as well
+as Alexandria, thereby saving much land carriage and labour of
+shifting. Already several ships laden with grain, from Upper Egypt,
+have availed themselves of this new means of communication.
+
+_Friday, April 27th_.--Another glorious sunrise. The pilot was on
+board at 5 a.m., and the Dhebash with fish, strawberries, and fresh
+vegetables. This is a beautiful climate, though there is scarcely any
+rain; only one very slight shower has occurred during the last three
+years at Suez, but the soil of the desert after the Nile overflow
+brings forth tenfold.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' was to start at eight o'clock, as soon as a large vessel
+had passed up from Port Said. There are only certain places in the
+Canal where vessels can pass one another, so one ship is always
+obliged to wait for another. We landed at half-past seven. The sun was
+already blazing with a burning fury, and we found it very hot riding
+up to the hotel on donkeys. We had an excellent breakfast at the same
+comfortable hotel, paid a very moderate bill, and left by the eleven
+o'clock train for Cairo. We stopped at Zag-a-zig for an hour for
+luncheon in a nice cool dark room, and started again about three
+o'clock. The change in the face of the country since we were here
+eight years ago is something extraordinary. A vast desert of sand has
+been transformed into one large oasis of undulating fields of waving
+corn, where there used to be nothing but whirlwinds of sand. All this
+has been effected by irrigation. The wealth of Egypt ought greatly to
+increase. How the people managed to live before is a mystery. Now
+every field is full of labourers reaping and stacking the corn, women
+gleaning, and in some places the patient, ugly black buffaloes
+ploughing the stubble for fresh crops.
+
+At half-past six we reached Cairo, and were conveyed in a large
+_char-a-bancs_ to what was formerly Shepherd's Hotel, now partly
+rebuilt and much altered for the better. Even in that short drive we
+could see that the face of the capital of Egypt had altered as much
+as the country, though I am not sure that it is so greatly improved.
+After a refreshing dip in cool marble baths and a change of garments,
+we went down to the large _table-d'hote_. Then we sat in the verandah
+looking on the street until we became tired of doing nothing, after
+which we started for a stroll in the Ezkebieh gardens close by. They
+are beautifully laid out for evening promenade; but although the
+flowers are lovely, and the turf, thanks to constant waterings, is
+deliciously green, all the large trees have been cut down. There is no
+seclusion, no shade, which seems a pity in a country where the
+greatest desire of life is shelter from the noonday heat. To-night
+both Arab and French bands were playing within the enclosure, and it
+was pleasant enough listening to Offenbach's music under the beams of
+the full moonlight. Few people appeared to appreciate it, however, for
+the gardens were nearly empty; but then the season is over, and every
+one has fled before the coming heat.
+
+_Saturday, April 28th_.--We had settled to start at six o'clock this
+morning to visit the Pyramids, an excursion which had been for some
+little time eagerly looked forward to and talked about by the younger
+members of our party. The morning was cold and grey, a strong
+northerly wind was blowing, and the change from the weather which had
+prevailed but a few hours previously was altogether most striking and
+unexpected. We drove rapidly through the streets and the outskirts of
+the town, where old houses are being pulled down and new ones rapidly
+built up, and where a general air of new bricks and old rubbish
+pervades the scene. Then we crossed the Nile by a handsome iron
+bridge, and saw the Palace of Gezireh, where the Prince of Wales and
+his suite were lodged. We passed the railway extension works, and, to
+the great delight of the children, saw two elephants busily employed,
+one of which was being made to lie down to enable his mahout to
+dismount. Soon the little ones gave a shout of 'The Pyramids!' and
+there before us stood those grand monuments of a nameless founder,
+which for centuries have stood out in the sands of the desert, while
+the burning African sun and the glorious African moon have risen and
+set on their heavenward-pointing summits for countless days and
+nights. Even the earth has changed her position so much since they
+were erected that the pole star no longer sheds its light in a direct
+line through the central passages, as it did when first they were
+designed.
+
+We drove along under avenues of now leafless trees to the foot of the
+hill on which the Pyramids are situated. Here everybody was turned out
+to walk except Muriel and me, and a tremendous tug the horses had to
+drag even us two up to the real foot of the Pyramids. On arriving we
+were at once surrounded by a crowd of Arabs. They are certainly a
+fine-looking lot of men, rather clamorous for backshish, and anxious
+to sell their curiosities, real or imitation. They were, however,
+good-natured, civil, and obliging, and amused me much during the hour
+I spent alone with them while the rest of the party were ascending and
+descending the Pyramids. Many could speak several languages quite
+fluently, and almost all of them took a good deal of interest in the
+war, and the prospects of success on either side; while many had a
+fair knowledge of the geography of Europe. While all the rest were on
+the top of the one large Pyramid, a man ran down from the summit and
+up to the top of the next smaller one (which is, however, more
+difficult to ascend) in 'eight minutes for a franc' This feat was
+repeated several times by different men, but it really occupied nearer
+ten minutes.
+
+We ate some bread and wine, bought a few curiosities, and then drove
+back to the city, feeling very cold and shivery and regretting the
+wraps we had left behind. We reached the hotel just in time for twelve
+o'clock _table-d'hote_ breakfast, and, after an acceptable rest,
+sallied forth again, this time on donkeys, to see the bazaars and the
+sunset from the citadel. We went across squares and gardens and
+through wide streets, for, alas! Cairo is being rapidly Haussmannised.
+For the capitalist or resident, Cairo may be improved, but for the
+traveller, the artist, the lover of the picturesque, the quaint, and
+the beautiful, the place is ruined. Cairo as a beautiful and ancient
+oriental city has ceased to exist, and is being rapidly transformed
+into a bad imitation of modern Paris, only with bluer skies, a more
+brilliant sun, and a more serene climate than it is possible to find
+in Europe. Only a few narrow streets and old houses are still left,
+with carved wooden lattices, where you can yet dream that the 'Arabian
+Nights' are true.
+
+We went to the gold and silver bazaar, and bought some quaint silver
+jewellery from Assouan, Soudan, and Abyssinia; then through the
+Turkish bazaar, the saddlery bazaars, past mosques and old houses,
+till at length we emerged into new squares and new streets, before
+climbing the hill to the citadel, the Viceroy's palace, and the
+splendid Mosque of Mehemet Ali, built of Egyptian alabaster. The view
+from the terrace is superb, over city, desert, river, palm-trees, and
+Pyramids. The sunset this evening was a disappointment; yellow, cold,
+and watery, a strong north wind bringing up all the sand from the
+desert. We returned to the hotel for dinner, and were all glad to go
+early to bed.
+
+_Sunday, April 29th_.--The children and I went to the English church,
+a semi-Gothic building, without a single window which could open.
+Though the church was nearly empty, the air felt like that of an
+exhausted receiver, and made one gasp. In the cool of the afternoon we
+drove through Roulai, where the museum stands, in a beautiful garden
+close by the riverside, amid flowers in full bloom.
+
+After an early meal (hardly to be called dinner) we went to the
+station, just as all the people were going for a drive to Shoubrah in
+the smartest carriages and the prettiest toilets.
+
+Our journey to Alexandria in the evening was cool and pleasant. A
+huge break met us, and we drove to Abbat's Hotel--considerably
+improved since our last visit in 1869.
+
+_Monday, April 30th_.--Got up at 5 a.m. After a deliciously soft but
+very muddy bath, I went for a donkey ride before breakfast with
+Mabelle. Tom arrived from the yacht in time for twelve o'clock
+breakfast, and announced the voyage from Port Said to have been rough
+and unpleasant.
+
+We called on the Consul, the Vice-Consul, and our old friend, Consul
+Burton of Trieste, Haj Abdullah. He has just returned from a journey
+through the ancient land of Midian, undertaken at the special request
+of the Viceroy. He describes the expedition as having been most
+successful; the climate is almost perfect from September to May; the
+land is well watered by little streams flowing through fertile
+valleys, and full of fragrant flowers and luscious fruits. The corn
+reaches above the camel-men's heads, which means a height of fourteen
+or fifteen feet. But the mineral wealth of the country is its most
+extraordinary feature. He found traces of gold in the sand of the
+river-beds, in spots pointed out to him by his fellow-pilgrims on the
+way to Mecca twenty years ago, to say nothing of tin, iron, &c.
+Perhaps the most interesting part of his discovery was the remains of
+eight ruined cities with traces in the dry river-beds of
+stone-crushing and gold-seeking apparatus, which must have been used
+centuries ago. He is writing a book on the subject, which you may
+perhaps see before you read this.
+
+The Consul kindly sent a janissary with us to show us the Sultan's
+palace. It is large and bare of furniture; and the general style of
+decoration is like that of the palaces at Cherniga and Dolma Batscher.
+Thence we went to see Pompey's Pillar and Cleopatra's Needle, the
+dahabeas ready to go up the Nile, &c.; and returned to the hotel in
+time for dinner and a chat afterwards in the cool courtyard.
+
+_Tuesday, May 1st_.--I wrote from 3 a.m. to 6.30 a.m., in order to
+send letters off by the French mail, and at seven Mabelle and I
+sallied forth on donkeys to visit the market. There was not much to
+see, however, everything being so crowded and jammed up, meat, fish,
+vegetables, and fruit, all close together. The crowd was amusing, as
+all the European householders had negroes or Arabs following them,
+laden with their purchases. We found some lovely flowers in a street
+near the market, and then we went on to the big gold and silver
+bazaar, and to the Turkish and Syrian bazaars, where we saw all the
+specialities of Constantinople, and Broussa, Damascus, and Jerusalem
+laid out before us. After breakfast, the antics of two enormous apes,
+who came round on a donkey, accompanied by a showman and a boy, amused
+the children much. They were hideously ugly, but the cleverest monkeys
+I ever saw. They went through a regular little play, quarrelled with
+one another; the man and the boy rode the ape, and made him kick; at
+last the ape was hurt, and lay fainting in the man's arms, limp and
+languid, just able to sip a little water; then he died, and dropped
+down stiff, with his eyes shut. His tail was pulled, his lips and
+eyelids were forced open, but he never winked an eyelid or moved a
+hair of his whiskers. He was thrown about from side to side, remaining
+perfectly motionless till, at a sign from his master, he jumped up as
+well as ever, shouldered his gun, and mounted his ass to take his
+departure. He was promptly ordered to dismount and ask for backshish,
+which he did, cap in hand. Some of the crowd round about not
+contributing to his master's satisfaction, the ape took a nasty
+venomous-looking little snake out of a bag which he carried over his
+shoulder, and threw it among the bystanders, to their great
+consternation.
+
+At two o'clock we went to lunch with the Consul, and what a pleasant
+lunch it was, prepared by a French cook, and eaten in a cool, airy,
+and shady room free from flies, which were kept out by fine wire
+gauze placed in front of each well-shaded door and window! The table
+was one mass of the roses for which Alexandria is so famous. Everybody
+had wandered about the world more or less, everybody was in good
+spirits, and we laughed and chatted and talked sense or nonsense as
+the fancy took us, till it was time to go on board the yacht _en
+masse_, and receive some visitors at tea. A few had arrived before us,
+but the children and some others of the party were on board and had
+been doing the honours and showing them round. About 5.30 p.m. our
+last guests departed, and all was ready for a start; but, alas! we had
+to wait for an absent steward, who had gone in search of the always
+late linen, that plague of the poor yachtsman's life when he has a
+large party on board. The sun was sinking fast, the wind was blowing
+fresh and fair, and if we did not start soon it would be impossible to
+do so at all, and a night's work of more than 120 miles would be lost.
+At last the welcome boat was seen coming from the shore; we unmoored,
+and went ahead for about an hour. But the light gradually faded away;
+it became impossible to distinguish the beacon; the sand banks are
+numerous, and there are no lights. It was only endangering the ship
+and the lives of all on board to proceed; so the order was reluctantly
+given, 'Hard a-port.' Round she went in her own length almost, and
+very soon we let go the anchor just outside our old moorings, and
+spent the night, after all, in the harbour of Alexandria.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+'HOME.'
+
+    _She comes, majestic with her swelling sails,_
+    _The gallant bark along her watery way,_
+    _Homeward she drives before the favouring gales._
+    _Now flitting at their length the streamers fly,_
+    _And now they ripple with the ruffling breeze._
+
+
+_Wednesday, May 2nd_.--Steam was up at five o'clock, the wind being
+still fair but light. Soon it dropped to a calm, and then went round
+and blew with great force exactly in the opposite direction, dead
+ahead. The fires had to be put out, for it was so rough we could do no
+good steaming against the gale. The screw kept racing round and
+shaking the vessel terribly. Of course I was very ill; but the maids
+did not mind, and the children rather enjoyed the tumbling about and
+the water on deck. We continued scudding along through the water, but
+not making much progress on our course.
+
+[Illustration: HOMEWARD BOUND.]
+
+_Thursday, May 3rd_.--The wind kept on increasing, and at last blew
+quite a gale. We have gone a long way out of our course to the
+northward, ready for a favourable change, but we can scarcely make any
+way to the westward.
+
+_Friday, May 4th_.--A repetition of yesterday--,
+
+    Beating, beating all the day,
+    But never a bit ahead.
+
+_Saturday, May 5th_.--A lull at last, and we are able to have the
+fires lighted and to steam on our course. We made the Island of
+Scarpanto in the morning. All the afternoon and evening we have been
+steaming along ten miles to the southward of Crete. Its outline was
+very beautiful, surmounted by the snow-capped mountains. I was up on
+deck just in time to behold the most lovely sunset, with exquisite
+rosy, purple, and crimson tints on sea and sky.
+
+I have not quite got over my attack in Cairo yet, and for the last
+three days have been completely laid up with a various mixture of land
+illness and sea sickness. We stopped steaming late in the day, but
+fires were lighted again in the middle of the night, as the wind was
+still ahead. There was a discussion whether or not to go round the
+north side of the Island of Kandia, so as to have a glimpse of the
+British Fleet at anchor in Suda Bay, if they have already arrived
+there.
+
+_Sunday, May 6th, and Monday, May 7th_.--Early in the morning the
+snowy mountains of Crete were still in sight. Service was held as
+usual at eleven, but it was too rough in the afternoon for it to be
+repeated.
+
+Sail and steam, wind and calm, alternated with one another all day.
+Tom is anxious to sail every mile he can, and yet not to lose any
+unnecessary time, and finds it exceedingly difficult to combine these
+two objects.
+
+_Tuesday, May 8th_.--A fine morning, with a cold strong head breeze.
+At noon we rejoiced to think that Malta was not more than a few miles
+ahead, or we should assuredly have failed to reach our port before
+nightfall. About three we closed in with the land about Marsa
+Scirocco and Delamara Point, and, after one or two tacks, rounded the
+Point of Ricasole, and leaving Port St. Elmo on our right, we swiftly
+glided into the grand harbour of Valetta. We have been here so often
+that it feels quite like reaching home. We soon found ourselves in our
+old quarters in the Dockyard Creek, and had scarcely moored before one
+of the officers came on board with the usual complimentary offers of
+assistance, whilst directly afterwards came an invitation to a
+farewell ball at the Palace, given to the Duke of Edinburgh. Our old
+boatman, Bubbly Joe, took us ashore to dinner, and we found everything
+looking as bright and cheerful and steep as it always does and always
+will do; not the least bit altered or modernised. The landlord of the
+Hotel d'Angleterre was delighted to see us again, and so were his
+servants, who came flocking from all parts of the house, nearly
+pulling the children to pieces, and plying our own servants with
+questions in their anxiety to know all about us.
+
+[Illustration: Faldetta, Malta.]
+
+We had to go back on board the yacht to dress, and then return for the
+ball, by which time I was so thoroughly tired, and had so bad a
+headache, that I could not enjoy it much, pleasant as it was. Very
+soon after supper we came away and had a charming row across the
+harbour to our snug quarters on board the 'Sunbeam.' These sudden
+bursts of dissipation on shore are a delightful change after days and
+weeks at sea.
+
+_Wednesday, May 9th_.--I was up soon after sunrise and admired this
+often-abused creek as much as I always do. The stone houses, the
+carved and coloured verandahs of bright flowers, the water lapping the
+very door-steps, the gaily painted boats with their high prows at
+either end, the women in their black dresses and faldettas, and
+black-robed priests, all helped to carry the imagination over the
+Mediterranean and up the Adriatic to lovely Venice. At this hour in
+the morning there were not many English soldiers or sailors to spoil
+the illusion.
+
+Malta is essentially a border-land--African by geographical
+configuration, European politically, and assuredly Asiatic in its
+language, its buildings, and in the manners and customs of the
+natives. We gave everybody on board a holiday, and the chance of a run
+ashore to-day to stretch their legs after their long sea voyage. Tom
+went on board the 'Sultan' to see the Duke of Edinburgh and his
+splendid ship. Whilst at breakfast I received an intimation that the
+Duke of Edinburgh wished to come and examine the yacht. His Royal
+Highness arrived soon afterwards, quite unattended, in a beautiful
+ten-oared barge, and paid us a long, visit, inspecting the yacht
+minutely and looking at all the pets. He took a great interest in our
+voyage and courses, as well as in the numerous curiosities, knowing at
+once from what place each had been procured. The Duke, who had taken
+very nearly the same cruise himself in the 'Galatea' a few years ago,
+inquired very kindly after all his old friends at Tahiti, Hilo,
+Honolulu, and many other places. The Duke is very kind to everybody
+here. He is much liked by his brother officers in the squadron, and
+both H.R.H. and the Duchess seem to have made themselves most popular
+here during the winter. The officers of the 'Sultan,' several of whom
+are old friends of ours, appear to think themselves fortunate indeed
+in having such a commanding officer, whilst on shore his approaching
+departure is universally regretted. Everybody seems full of their
+Royal Highnesses' winter ball, which must have been a most brilliant
+affair.
+
+[Illustration: Armoury in the Governor's Palace, Valetta]
+
+After the Duke's departure we went ashore again, called on various
+friends before luncheon, and went over the palace and through the
+armoury. Then we took a walk down the Strada Reale, the shopping
+street of Valetta, until it was time to go on board to receive some
+friends to tea. The shops are full of coral, lace, gold and silver
+filigree work, and a new sort of lace they make in Gozo, of white
+silk, in beautiful patterns. It has been manufactured only during the
+last few years, and varies much in quality and design. Some forty or
+fifty friends came on board and amused themselves looking at our
+curiosities and photographs until long past the dinner hour. We had to
+hurry on shore to dine, and go afterwards to the Opera Manoel. The new
+Grand Opera House is not to be opened until next October. It had been
+blowing fresh and strong from the westward all day, but to-night, as
+we rowed across the harbour, the breeze had dropped to a flat calm,
+and Tom is most anxious to be off at daybreak.
+
+_Thursday, May 10th_.--I was up before sunrise. A fresh fair wind was
+blowing, and as soon as the children could be got ready we all went
+ashore to the market, which was crowded with people, and full of fish,
+meat, and all spring vegetables and fruit. We were to start at 6.30,
+so there was no time to lose, and laden with lovely bouquets of
+flowers we hastened on board; but it was nine o'clock, after all our
+haste, before we were fairly off, through some mistake about the bill
+of health.
+
+Malta is certainly the most delightful place for yachting winter
+quarters, with its fine healthy harbour, charming society, very cheap
+living, and abundance of everything good. It is in proximity to many
+pleasant places, and most interesting excursions can easily be made to
+Sicily and Italy, or the coast of Africa. To-day we glided along the
+coast, past the strongly fortified little island of Consino, standing
+boldly out in mid-channel between Malta and Gozo. The Mediterranean
+appears to us a highway after the lonely oceans and seas we have been
+sailing over. Within one hour this morning, we saw more ships than in
+the whole of our passage from Valparaiso to Tahiti and Yokohama.
+Towards the evening we could see the island of Pantellaria in the
+distance. We retain a lively remembrance of it from having been
+becalmed just off it in the 'Albatross' for three weary days and
+nights. It was after this and a long series of other vexations and
+delays that Tom and I registered a vow never to go a long voyage again
+in a yacht without at least auxiliary steam power.
+
+_Friday, May 11th_.--At 2.30 a.m. Pantellaria was abeam. At five the
+homeward-bound P. and O. steamer passed us quite close, and at six we
+met the outward-bound P. and O. steamer. At eight we passed Cape Bon
+and sailed across the mouth of the Bay of Tunis, in the centre of
+which is Goletta, the port of Tunis, the site of the ancient city of
+Carthage. Once we anchored close by that place for two or three days,
+and on that occasion I collected enough varieties of marble and mosaic
+from the old palaces to make some beautiful tables when we got home.
+In the afternoon and evening we made the Fratelli and the Sorelle
+Rocks, and still later the little Island of Galita. There were many
+steamers going in all directions, and it struck one very forcibly how
+much this little islet in mid-channel stands in need of a light.
+
+_Sunday, May 13th_.--The wind was dead ahead, and the sea of that
+remarkably confused character for which the Mediterranean is famous.
+It seemed as if the wind of yesterday, the wind of to-morrow, and the
+wind of to-day, had all met and were bent on making a night of it. We
+had service at eleven and four. The chart, now a good old friend, for
+it has been used by us on so many Mediterranean voyages, showed that
+this is the fourth noontide we have spent within a radius of thirty
+miles of this particular spot; within a radius of sixty miles we have
+spent at least three weeks of our lives at various periods. This does
+not of course include voyages in steamers which are not recorded in
+the chart.
+
+_Monday, May 14th_.--About breakfast time to-day we crossed the
+meridian of Greenwich; and this virtually completed our voyage round
+the world, our original point of departure having really been
+Rochester, which is a few minutes to the east of Greenwich. The wind
+changed in the middle of the day, and we passed through a large fleet
+of merchantmen hove-to under shelter of Cape de Gat, where they had
+collected, I suppose, from various ports in Spain and Italy.
+
+_Tuesday, May 15th_.--This was a somewhat sad day, many of our pets
+dying from the effects of the cold wind or from accidents. The
+steward's mocking-bird from Siam, which talked like a Christian and
+followed him about like a dog, died of acute bronchitis early this
+morning; and his monkey, the most weird little creature, with the
+affectionate ways of a human friend, died in the afternoon, of
+inflammation and congestion of the lungs. Two other monkeys and
+several birds also expired in the course of the day.
+
+This evening 'Beau Brummel,' the little pig I brought from Bow Island,
+in the South Pacific, died of a broken spine, as the doctor, who made
+a post-mortem examination in each case, discovered. A spar must have
+dropped upon poor piggy accidentally whilst he was running about on
+deck, though of course no one knew anything about it. I am very sorry;
+for though I must confess he was somewhat greedy and pig-like in his
+habits, he was extremely amusing in his ways. He ran about and went to
+sleep with the pugs, just like one of themselves. Besides, I do not
+think any one else in England could have boasted of a pig given to
+them by a South-Sea-Island chief. Probably 'Beau Brummel' was a lineal
+descendant of the pigs Captain Cook took out in the 'Endeavour.'
+
+The bodies were all placed together in a neat little box and committed
+to the deep at sunset, a few tears being shed over the departed pets,
+especially by the children.
+
+_Tuesday, May 15th_.--Cape de Gat was abeam early this morning. The
+wind fell light, but Tom hoped it would freshen again; otherwise, with
+steam we might easily have got into Gibraltar to-night. As it was,
+fires were not lighted until ten o'clock.
+
+_Wednesday, May 16th_.--At 3 a.m. I was called to see the light on
+Europa Point, and stayed on deck to watch the day dawn and the rising
+of the sun. It was not, however, a very agreeable morning; the
+Levanter was blowing, the signal station was enveloped in mist, the
+tops of the mountains of Africa were scarcely discernible above the
+clouds, and Ceuta and Ape's Hill were invisible. Algeciras and San
+Roque gleamed white on the opposite shore of the bay, while the dear
+old Rock itself looked fresher and cleaner than usual, exhaling a
+most delicious perfume of flowers. As the sun rose, the twitterings of
+the birds in the Alameda sounded most homelike and delightful.
+
+We had dropped our anchor inside the New Mole about 4.30, and before
+six the familiar sounds of English martial music could be heard from
+all the different barracks, as the regiments came marching down the
+hill and along the Alameda to the north front with all their baggage,
+military trains, tents, and ambulances, for a day's camping out. We
+were anxious to get on shore to see about coals, water, and
+provisions, but no health-boat came near us. About seven o'clock we
+started in despair, first to hail a policeman on shore (at a most
+respectful distance), to inquire where we could get _pratique_; then
+we procured it, and sent word back to the 'Sunbeam' that she was out
+of quarantine, and might hoist the yellow flag. We landed, went to the
+market, bought some lovely carnations stuck in a prickly-pear leaf to
+keep them fresh, and then went to the Hotel Royal--kept by the
+landlord of the old Club House Hotel, where we had so often stayed--to
+order breakfast. Our old friends the servants greeted us at every step
+from the house-door to the coffee-room, and we were taken special care
+of by a waiter who remembered us. After breakfast we went to pay some
+visits. We thought we ought to go and look at the galleries and Signal
+Station, as one or two of our party had never been here before; so we
+started, some on foot and some on donkeys. All the way up the steep
+streets to the Moorish castle, girls met us, selling lovely scarlet
+carnations and yellow roses. The galleries have not changed in the
+least since our last visit, but our soldier-guide told us they were
+daily expecting some big guns to come out, and he gave us a minute
+explanation how they were to be mounted. It was a pleasant ride,
+neither too hot nor too cold. Every crevice and interstice between the
+rocks was full of wild flowers, looking bright and pretty, though
+somewhat insignificant after the gorgeous tropical blossoms our eyes
+have been lately accustomed to. The fog had cleared off, and the view
+was beautiful; ships lay in the bay below us from all parts, including
+a Portuguese gunboat. We saw also one of the two old eagles sitting
+near her nest in the accustomed place; this year she has only one
+young one. We did not see the monkeys, on account of the Levanter, but
+their number has increased to twenty-four, so that there is no
+immediate fear of their becoming extinct.
+
+[Illustration: Tangier.]
+
+At half-past six p.m. we weighed anchor and steamed out of the
+anchorage inside the New Mole. In the straits the wind was fair, so
+the funnel was soon lowered, and the screw feathered, and we were
+racing along under sail alone. Off Tarifa we found quite a gale
+blowing, and the wind continued fresh and fair throughout the night.
+
+_Thursday, May 17th_.--The strong fair wind dropped, and then came
+dead ahead, and off Cadiz we had to get up steam. There was a strong
+wind off the mountains near Cape Sagres, and while Tom was below and
+the men were busy reefing the sails, we nearly ran ashore. Luckily I
+noticed our danger and called Tom, who came up just in time to alter
+the helm, when the yacht went round like a top, though the shore was
+too close to be pleasant. It only shows how easily an accident may
+occur. Both our fishermen-mates could not bear to be idle, and always
+considered looking out an insignificant occupation, and so neglected
+that important duty to assist with the sails.
+
+Off Cape St. Vincent it blew so hard that we were afraid we should be
+obliged to bring up in the bay of Sagres; but we found that it was
+only a land breeze, and that it was much smoother outside than we had
+expected.
+
+_Friday, May 18th_.--Fresh breeze. We met many steamers going down the
+coast with all sail set. After passing Cape Espichel the wind
+increased to a northerly gale, against which it was impossible to
+proceed. We therefore put into Lisbon. The mountains at the mouth of
+the Tagus, the tower and church of Belem, and the noble river itself
+looked even more beautiful in the sunset than my recollection led me
+to expect. We soon landed and had an excellent dinner at the Hotel
+Braganza, where we had stayed before, and where we were at once
+recognised and cordially received by the same landlord and landlady we
+remembered in 1861.
+
+After dinner we went for a walk. One of the things we saw during our
+stroll was the fine statue of Luiz de Camoens, specially interesting
+to us, as we had so recently seen the place where he passed many of
+the weary years of his exile. Rolling Motion Square was as giddy as
+ever. It was a curious fancy to pave it in such a way as to make it
+look like the waves of the sea, perpetually moving; and it must be a
+severe trial to the peripatetic powers of those who have not quite
+recovered their sea legs.
+
+_Saturday, May 19th_.--We were off early; it was a lovely day, and we
+had a pleasant drive to Cintra. On our arrival we mounted donkeys and
+went to Pena, the beautiful palace of the ex-King Ferdinand, situated
+at the top of the mountains. It is an extraordinary-looking place,
+the different parts being built in every imaginable style of
+architecture, with exquisite carving and old tiles that would delight
+the heart of a connoisseur. One of the most prominent objects near the
+Palace of Pena is the statue of Vasco da Gama, nobly placed on a
+pedestal of natural rocks, piled on the summit of a mountain peak, and
+worthy of the adventurous traveller it is erected to commemorate. The
+gardens are full of camellias, roses, bougainvillea, &c. We lunched at
+the excellent hotel, and came to the conclusion that Cintra is the
+place, not only 'to spend a happy day,' but many happy months. It is
+always pleasant to revisit places of which you have agreeable
+reminiscences, and to find your expectations surpassed instead of
+disappointed.
+
+[Illustration: Vasco da Gama]
+
+We had a hot drive back to Lisbon, and then went by tram to Belem,
+where we spent some time in the church and in wandering through its
+exquisite cloisters. The first stone was laid in 1500, and the name
+changed from Bairro de Restello to Belem or Bethlehem by Prince Henry
+of Portugal, the great promoter of maritime discovery in that century.
+It was built specially to commemorate the successful voyage of Vasco
+da Gama, who returned from the discovery of India in 1499.
+
+[Illustration: Belem Cloister Gardens]
+
+Tom met us with the yacht, and, we went on board with the intention of
+proceeding straight to sea. But after passing through the Canal del
+Norte a heavy gale obliged us to anchor in Cascaes Bay for the night,
+not far from a small schooner yacht with three ladies on board. It was
+rather rough, and we were very tired, or I think we should have
+ventured to pay them a visit, even at that late hour. It is absurd to
+stand upon ceremony when travelling; but I scarcely know what the
+strict etiquette would be on such an occasion--whether they, as first
+anchored in the bay, should call on us, or we on them, as probably the
+greater travellers and out longer at sea.
+
+_Sunday, May 20th_.--Weighed at 5 a.m. There was a dense fog off Cape
+del Roca, and the steam-whistle, foghorns, and bell were constantly
+kept going, with lugubrious effect. We had service at eleven and 4.30.
+Passed the Burlings at 1.30. Heavy swell all day.
+
+_Monday, May 21st_.--Rough and disagreeable. Off Viana at noon. Passed
+Oporto and Vigo in the course of the afternoon.
+
+_Tuesday, May 22nd_.--If yesterday was bad, to-day was worse. We hove
+to for some time under the shelter of Cape Finisterre, then went on
+again for a short distance; but at 1.30 a.m. on the 23rd we were
+obliged to put round and wait for daylight.
+
+_Wednesday, 23rd, and Thursday, 24th_.--In the course of the day the
+weather mended, though the sea still continued rough, and our course
+was really in the direction of America rather than England. In the
+evening of the 24th we were able to light fires, and, with the
+assistance of steam, to keep nearly on our proper course.
+
+_Saturday, May 26th_.--Saw the first English land, the Start, at 2.30
+a.m. Wind continued fresh and fair, but at noon dropped calm, and we
+had to steam through the Needles instead of sailing, as we had done on
+our way out. We reached Cowes about 3 p.m., and were immediately
+welcomed by several yachts, who dipped their ensigns and fired their
+guns. We landed, and were warmly greeted by many friends, and, after
+sending off telegrams and letters, re-embarked and proceeded towards
+Hastings. We were anxious to land by daylight, but this was not to be.
+So it turned out to be midnight before we reached Beachy Head and
+could discern the lights of Hastings shining in the distance. As we
+drew near to our anchorage we could see two boats coming swiftly
+towards us from the shore. The crews were members of the Royal Naval
+Artillery Volunteers, and as they came alongside they raised a shout
+of welcome. Hastings had been expecting us all the afternoon, and late
+as was the hour, 1.30 a.m., we were immediately surrounded by a fleet
+of boats, and many willing hands seized our heterogeneous cargo and
+multitudinous packages, and before daylight all had been safely landed
+on the pier. We committed ourselves to the care of the R.N.A.V., and
+landed in their boats, and at 4.30, proceeding to the Queen's Hotel,
+we had a joyous meeting with T.A.B. and Maud.
+
+[Illustration: Our Welcome back off Hastings.]
+
+How can I describe the warm greetings that met us everywhere, or the
+crowd that surrounded us, not only when we landed, but as we came out
+of church; how, along the whole ten miles from Hastings to Battle,
+people were standing by the roadside and at their cottage doors to
+welcome us; how the Battle bell-ringers never stopped ringing except
+during service time; or how the warmest of welcomes ended our
+delightful year of travel and made us feel we were home at last, with
+thankful hearts for the providential care which had watched over us
+whithersoever we roamed?
+
+    I travell'd among unknown men,
+      In lands beyond the sea,
+    Nor, England! did I know till then
+      What love I bore to thee.
+
+[Illustration: Home at Last.]
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+SUMMARY OF THE ENTIRE VOYAGE.
+
+COMPILED FROM THE LOG-BOOK.
+
+
+JULY 1876.
+
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+-------------------------------
+ J|             |     |      |        |         |     Since previous noon
+ u|   Remarks   |Temp | Temp |Latitude|Longitude+---------+-----------+---------
+ l|             | of  |  of  |        |         | Course  |  Distance | Wind and
+ y|             |water|  air |        |         |         |Steam |Sail|  weather
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+---------+------+----+---------
+  |             | F  deg. | F   deg. |  deg.   '  |  deg.   '   |         |      |    |
+ 6|Left Cowes,  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |I. of W.     | ... | ...  |   ...  |   ...   | Various |  ... | ...| ...
+ 7|Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Torbay at    |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |8.30 a.m.    | ... | ...  |   ...  |   ...   |     "   |  ... | 113| ...
+ 8|Left Torbay  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at noon      | ... | ...  |   ...  |   ...   |    "    |  ... |   8| ...
+ 9|  ...   ...  | ... | ...  | 48 45 N|  4 46 W |    "    |    8 | 107| ...
+10|  ...   ...  | ... | ...  | 46 27 N|  6 50 W |    "    |   99 |  62| ...
+11|Cape Villano,|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |69 miles,    |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at noon      | ... | ...  | 44 16 N|  9 10 W |SW, 3/4 deg.W|  ... | 164| ...
+12|Madeira, 513;|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Torbay,      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |672 miles    | ... | ...  | 40 29 N| 11  1 W |SW by S  |  ... | 227| ...
+13|Madeira, 375 |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |miles        | ... | ...  | 38 24 N| 12 21 W |   SW    |   98 |  36|NNE 26 c.
+14|Madeira, 246 |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |miles        | ... | ...  | 36 36 N| 13 58 W |SW, 1/4 deg.W|   40 |  90|SE 2
+15|Porto Santo, |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |NNE 2.
+  |90 miles     | ... | ...  | 34 25 N| 15 35 W |S, 33 deg. W |   29 | 123|Foggy
+16|Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Madeira      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |(Funchal) at |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |noon         | ... | ...  |   ...  |    ...  |S, 31 deg. W |   79 |  57|NE 3
+19|Left Madeira |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at 9.25 p.m. | 72  | ...  |   ...  |    ...  |   ...   |  ... | ...| ...
+20|Tenerife, 163|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |miles        | 73  | 67   | 31 11 N| 16 45 W |S, 30 deg. E |   20 |  67|NE 3 to 5
+21|Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Puerto       |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Orotava at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |2.30 p.m.    | 70  | 69   | 28 38 N| 16 42 W |S, 2 deg. E  |  144 |  15| ...
+24|Left Puerto  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Orotava,     |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Tenerife, at |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |noon         | ... | ...  |   ...  |    ...  |   ...   |  ... | ...| ...
+25| ...   ...   | 72  | 70   | 26 53 N| 19 11 W |   ...   |   20 | 173| ...
+26| ...   ...   | 72  | 75   | 24 45 N| 21  0 W |S, 37 deg. W |  ... | 161| ...
+27| ...   ...   | 72  | 74   | 22 27 N| 23  4 W |S, 39 deg. W |  ... | 180| ...
+28| ...   ...   | 73  | 71   | 19 48 N| 24 14 W |S, 22 deg. W |  ... | 172| ...
+29| ...   ...   | 75  | 77   | 17 26 N| 24 55 W |S, 16 deg. W |  ... | 148| ...
+30|Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Tarafal Bay, |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |St. Antonio, |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |9a.m.; left  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |6 p.m.       | 75  | 75   |   ...  |    ...  | Various |   15 |  52| ...
+31| ...   ...   | 78  | 73   | 14 45 N| 25 26 W |   ...   |  120 |  12|NE 3
+  |             |-----|------|        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Average      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |temperature  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |for the month|73.2 deg.|72.33 deg.|        |         |         |      |    |
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+---------+------+----+---------
+
+
+AUGUST 1876.
+
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+-------------------------------
+ A|             |     |      |        |         |     Since previous noon
+ u|   Remarks   |Temp | Temp |Latitude|Longitude+---------+-----------+---------
+ g|             | of  |  of  |        |         | Course  |  Distance | Wind and
+ .|             |water|  air |        |         |         |Steam |Sail| weather
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+---------+------+----+---------
+  |             | F  deg. | F   deg. |  deg.   '  |  deg.   '   |         |      |    |
+ 1| ...   ...   | 79  | 74   | 11 59 N| 25  9 W |S, 5 deg. E  |  159 |  13|Calm
+ 2| ...   ...   | 78  | 74   |  9 10 N| 24 46 W |S, 7 deg. E  |  163 | ...|SW by W 2
+ 3| ...   ...   | 79  | 75   |  7 42 N| 21 38 W |S, 57 deg. E |  160 |  27|SSW 7
+ 4|Sierra Leone,|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |S to SSE
+  |289 miles    | 79  | 74   |  7 16 N| 18 34 W |S, 84 deg. E |  ... | 241|6-7
+ 5| ...   ...   | 79  | 75   |  5 48 N| 20 30 W |S, 53 deg. W |  ... | 139|S4
+ 6|The warm     |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Guinea and   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Equatorial   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |currents     |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |extend to    |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |about 7 deg. N,  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |and the      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |latter to    |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |about 5 deg. S,  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |of the       |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |S by E 5
+  |Equator      | 79  | 74   |  3 58 N| 22  6 W |S, 42 deg. W |  ... | 156|to 6
+ 7| ...   ...   | 74  | 71   |  1 52 N| 24  5 W |S, 43 deg. W |  ... | 179|S 4 to 5
+ 8|St. Paul's   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Rock, 250    |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |miles.       |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Crossed      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Equator at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |10.30 a.m.   | 75  | 72.3 |  0 56 S| 26 34 W |S, 42 deg. W |  ... | 225|SE 6 to 7
+ 9| ...   ...   | 78  | 74   |  4 23 S| 28 42 W |S, 32 deg. W |  ... | 243|SSE,
+  |             |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |ESE 7
+10|Pernambuco,  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |270 miles    | 78  | 73.8 |  7 35 S| 30 19 W |S, 24 deg. W |  ... | 211|SE 6
+11| ...   ...   | 77  | 71.5 | 10 11 S| 32 26 W |S, 39 deg. W |  ... | 200|SE 4 to 5
+12|Bahia, 300   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |miles        | 74  | 71.3 | 13  1 S| 33 51 W |S, 28 deg. W |  ... | 196|SE 5
+13| ...   ...   | 74  | 71   | 15 42 S| 35 51 W |S, 37 deg. W |  ... | 202|SE by S 5
+14| ...   ...   | 74.3| 70.7 | 17 25 S| 37 31 W |S, 43 deg. W |  ... | 141|NNE 4
+15| ...   ...   | 73  | 69.5 | 19 58 S| 38  1 W |S, 11 deg. W |  ... | 155|NEly 5
+16| ...   ...   | 66  | 67   | 22 37 S| 40 39 W |S, 45 deg. W |  ... | 225|NE 5
+17|Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Rio de       |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Janeiro at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |WSW
+  |6.15 p.m     | 64.5| 65   | 23 53 S| 42 50 W |   ...   |   87 |  82|6 to 9
+  |             |-----|------|        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Average      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |temperature  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |for the month|75.3 deg.|71.94 deg.|        |         |         |      |    |
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+---------+------+----+---------
+
+
+SEPTEMBER 1876.
+
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+-------------------------------
+ S|             |     |      |        |         |     Since previous noon
+ e|   Remarks   |Temp | Temp |Latitude|Longitude+---------+-----------+---------
+ p|             | of  |  of  |        |         | Course  |  Distance | Wind and
+ t|             |water|  air |        |         |         |Steam |Sail| weather
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+---------+------+----+---------
+  |             | F  deg. | F   deg. |  deg.   '  |  deg.   '   |         |      |    |
+ 5|Left Rio de  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Janeiro at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |SSW
+  |6 a.m.       | ... | ...  |   ...  |   ...   |   ...   |   36 | ...|2 to 3
+ 6|             | 70  | 64   | 24 56 S| 45 40 W |   ...   |  120 |  32|NE 5
+ 7|             | 67  | 65   | 26 50 S| 47 34 W |   ...   |  ... | 136|NE 8
+ 8|             | 68  | 67   | 30 30 S| 49  4 W |S, 16 deg. W |  ... | 243|NE 8 to 9
+ 9|Lobos, WSW,  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |160 miles    | 57  | 57.5 | 34 18 S| 51 43 W |S, 31 deg. W |  ... | 270|SW 4
+10|             | 57  | 58   | 31 48 S| 54 13 W |S, 72 deg. W |  119 |  31|S by E 6
+  |             |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |to 7
+11|Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Monte Video  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at 4.30 a.m. | 60.3| 60   |   ...  |   ...   |    ...  |  115 | ...| ...
+12|Left Monte   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Video at     |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |6 a.m.       | ... | ...  |   ...  |   ...   |   ...   |  119 | ...|NE 2 to 3
+13|Arrived off  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Buenos Ayres |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at 10 p.m.   | ... | ...  |   ...  |   ...   |    ...  |  ... | ...| ...
+27|Left Buenos  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  | Ayres at    |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |11.30 a.m.   | 62  | 60.3 |   ...  |   ...   |    ...  |  ... | ...| ...
+28|Rescued crew |     |      |        |         |Various  |      |    |WSW to NW
+  |of           |     |      |        |         |down R.  |      |    |3, WNW 7
+  |'Monkshaven' | 53  | 57.5 | 36 57 S| 55 44 W |Plate    |  119 |  50|to 8
+29|             | 51.3| 57   | 38 50 S| 57  5 W |   ...   |   83 |  53| ...
+30|             | 52  | 51.5 | 41 00 S| 59 50 W |S, 40 deg. W |  ... | 196|NW by W 6
+  |             |-----|------|        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Average      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |temperature  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |for the month|59.7 deg.|59.78 deg.|        |         |         |      |    |
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+---------+------+----+---------
+
+
+OCTOBER 1876.
+
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+-------------------------------
+ O|             |     |      |        |         |     Since previous noon
+ c|   Remarks   |Temp | Temp |Latitude|Longitude+---------+-----------+---------
+ t|             | of  |  of  |        |         | Course  |  Distance | Wind and
+ .|             |water|  air |        |         |         |Steam |Sail| weather
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+---------+------+----+---------
+  |             | F  deg. | F   deg. |  deg.   '  |  deg.   '   |         |      |    |
+ 1| ...   ...   | 50.7| 53   | 43 10 S| 62 28 W |S, 45 deg. W |  103 |  64|NW by W 6
+ 2| ...   ...   | 49  | 51   | 45 33 S| 64  0 W |S, 39 deg. W |  139 |  31|SW 7 to 8
+ 3| ...   ...   | 46  | 49   | 48 31 S| 65  9 W |S, 15 deg. W |   65 | 116|W by S 6
+ 4| ...   ...   | 43.5| 42.5 | 49 25 S| 67 17 S |   ...   |  122 |  14|SE by S 6
+ 5|Off Cape     |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Virgin at    |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |noon. Arrived|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at Possession|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Bay at       |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |7.45 p.m.    | 43.5| 44   | 52 20 S| 68 17 W |   ...   |  185 | ...|N by E4
+ 6|Left         |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Possesion Bay|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at 6 a.m.    |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |Light
+  |Sandy Point  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |airs,
+  |at 2.30 p.m. | ... | ...  | 52 45 S| 70 20 W |    ...  |  95  | ...|SW6
+ 8|Left Sandy   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Point at 6   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |a.m. Arrived |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at Borja Bay |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Straits of   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Magellan, at |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |SE and E
+  |6.30 p.m.    | 46  | 46.2 | 53 53 S| 71 17 W | Various | 105  | ...|3 to 4
+ 9|Left Borja   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Bay at 6.30  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |a.m. Arrived |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at Otter Bay |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at 6.55 p.m. | 45.8| 45.8 | 52 22 S| 73 40 W |   "     | 105  | ...| ...
+10|Left Otter   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Bay at 5 a.m.|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Puerto Bueno |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at 5.30 p.m. | 49  | 48.7 | 51  0 S| 74 12 W |   "     |   95 | ...| ...
+11|Left Puerto  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Bueno at 5   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |a.m. Arrived |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at Port      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Grappler at  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |7 p.m.       | 49  | 50   | 49 26 S| 74 20 W |   "     |  105 | ...| ...
+12|Left         |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |Calm and
+  |Port         |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |light
+  |Grappler at  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |southerly
+  |5 a.m.       | 51  | 51   |  ...   |   ...   |   "     |   60 | ...|winds
+13| ...  ...    | 52  | 51.8 | 46  0 S| 76 23 W |   "     |  150 |  25|NEly
+  |             |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |5 to 3
+14| ...  ...    | 53.7| 52.8 | 44 55 S| 76 46 W |N, 14 deg. W |  ... |  67|SW 2 to 3
+15| ...  ...    | 56  | 55   | 42 47 S| 76  3 W |N, 14 deg. E |  100 |  32|Calm, S
+  |             |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |by E 1-2
+16| ...  ...    | 57.8| 57.5 | 39 52 S| 74 42 W |N, 20 deg. E |  152 |  37|S by E 2
+  |             |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |to 3
+17| ...  ...    | 59  | 58.2 | 39  0 S| 74 38 W |N, 52 deg. E |   28 |  63|NW by W
+  |             |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |4 to 5
+18|Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |Calm &
+  |Lota, Chilli,|     |      |        |         |         |      |    |light
+  |at 9 a.m.    | ... | ...  |   ...  |   ...   | Various |  144 | ...|airs
+19|Left Lota at |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |NW by
+  |2 p.m.       | 57  | ...  |   ...  |   ...   |  ...    |  ... | ...|W 6
+20|Valparaiso,  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |S by W
+  |195 miles    | 60.2| 57.9 | 36  5 S| 72 59 W |  ...    |  ... |  65|5 to 6
+21|Arrived at   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Valparaiso   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |at 4 p.m.    | ... | ...  | 33 18 S| 72 19 W |  ...    |  ... | 211|S by W 6
+30|Left         |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |Light
+  |Valparaiso   |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |airs
+  |at 3 p.m.    | ... | ...  |   ...  |   ...   |  ...    |  ... | ...|and calms
+31| ...   ...   | 62.1| 61   | 32 34 S| 72 58 W |N, 73 deg. W |  ... |  81|NW by N 5
+  |             |-----|------|        |         |         |      |    |
+  |Average      |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |temperature  |     |      |        |         |         |      |    |
+  |for the month|51.7 deg.| 51.5 deg.|        |         |         |      |    |
+--+-------------+-----+------+--------+---------+---------+------+----+---------
+
+
+NOVEMBER 1876.
+
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------------------------------
+  |            |  Temp.  |  Temp.  |       |        |
+ N|            | of water|  of air |       |        |      Since previous noon
+ o|  Remarks   +----+----+----+----+ Lat.  | Long.  +--------+----------+------------
+ v|            |Noon|6   |Noon|6   |       |        | Course | Distance | Wind and
+ .|            |    |p.m.|    |p.m.|       |        |        |Steam|Sail| weather
+--+------------+----+----+----+----+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+  |            |F   deg.|F   deg.|F   deg.|F   deg.|   deg.  ' |   deg.  '  |        |     |    |
+ 1|In S.       |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Pacific     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |W by N 3
+  |Ocean       |63.3|... |61.2|... |31 30 S| 72 55 W|N, 64 deg. W| ... | 112|to 4
+ 2|Ditto Ditto |65.6|... |62.3|... |30 54 S| 74  9 W|N, 61 deg. W| ... | 111|S 3
+ 3|Ditto Ditto |67.3|... |63.5|... |29 11 S| 76 15 W|N, 46 deg. W| ... | 151|SSE 6
+ 4|Ditto Ditto |68.3|68.2|64.2|64  |27 45 S| 78 55 W|N, 59 deg. W| ... | 167|SE 3
+ 5|Ditto Ditto |71.8|69.3|66  |65.3|26 54 S| 80 48 W|N, 63 deg. W| ... | 113|SE 3
+ 6|Ditto Ditto |71.5|69.7|68  |66  |25 52 S| 83 10 W|N, 64 deg. W| ... | 140|ESE 3
+ 7|Ditto Ditto |71  |70  |68.8|66.3|24 47 S| 85 51 W|N, 66 deg. W| ... | 163|NE by E 3
+ 8|Ditto Ditto |... |... |... |... |23 47 S| 86 58 W|N, 46 deg. W| ... | 107|NNW 2.
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |Calms
+ 9|Ditto Ditto |72  |72.3|68  |68.2|21 28 S| 88 27 W|N, 31 deg. W| 144 |  18|ESE 4
+10|Ditto Ditto |72.3|72  |74  |69  |19 12 S| 89 48 W|N, 29 deg. W| ... | 166|E by S 6
+11|Ditto Ditto |73  |71.3|69.5|68.8|17 19 S| 91 42 W|N, 44 deg. W| ... | 156|ESE 6
+12|Ditto Ditto |73  |72.3|71  |70  |16 53 S| 94 43 W|S, 82 deg. W| ... | 178|ESE 4 to 6
+13|Ditto Ditto |74.3|73.2|71  |70.5|16 56 S| 98 17 W|S, 89 deg. W| ... | 215|ESE 7
+14|Ditto Ditto |73.5|73.8|71.3|71  |17  6 S|102 11 W|S, 87 deg. W| ... | 217|E 6
+15|Ditto Ditto |76  |76  |72.8|71.7|16 44 S|105 57 W|N, 86 deg. W| ... | 217|ENE 6
+16|Ditto Ditto |77  |75.8|73  |73  |17  0 S|109 16 W|S, 85 deg. W| ... | 199|ENE
+17|Ditto Ditto |77.8|77.5|76.2|75.0|17 16 S|112  0 W|S, 84 deg. W| ... | 159|E to N 5
+18|Ditto Ditto |79  |77.8|75.2|73.5|16 18 S|114 52 W|N, 70 deg. W| ... | 173|E 5
+19|Ditto Ditto |79  |78.2|78  |76  |15 38 S|117 52 W|N, 77 deg. W| ... | 180| ...
+20|Ditto Ditto |80.2|79.3|77  |76.5|15 19 S|120 17 W|N, 82 deg. W| ... | 139|ENE 3
+21|Ditto Ditto |80  |79  |78  |76.3|15 25 S|122 18 W|S, 87 deg. W| ... | 121|ENE 3 to 4
+22|Ditto Ditto |81  |79.8|78.2|77  |15 21 S|124 20 W|N, 88 deg. W| ... | 123|NE by E
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |3 to 4
+23|Ditto Ditto |81.2|80.2|78  |77  |15  4 S|126 40 W|N, 83 deg. W| ... | 141|NE 3
+24|Ditto Ditto |81  |81  |79.2|77  |15 18 S|129 12 W|S, 85 deg. W| ... | 153|NNE 3
+25|Ditto Ditto |81  |80.2|78  |77.8|15 27 S|132 12 W|S, 86 deg. W| 160 |  21|E 2
+26|Ditto Ditto |82.2|81.5|80.7|78.3|15 47 S|135 20 W|  ...   | 142 |  35|ESE 4
+27|Ditto Ditto |81  |80.5|79  |78  |16 54 S|138  9 W|  ...   | 156 |  32| ...
+28|Stopped at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Bow Island  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Low         |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Archipelago,|    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |for 3 hours |81.8|81.6|80  |79.6|17 55 S|140 43 W|S, 56 deg. W|  20 | 148|ESE 4 to 5
+29| ...        |81.7|81  |79.5|77  |18 41 S|143  7 W|  ...   |  10 | 152|SE 4 to 5
+30| ...        |81.3|81  |80  |79.3|18 20 S|145 57 W|N, 79 deg. W| ... | 162|NE 4 to 5
+  |            |---------|---------|       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Average     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |temperature |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |for the     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |month       |  76.3 deg.  |   73.3 deg. |       |        |        |     |    |
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+
+
+DECEMBER 1876.
+
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------------------------------
+  |            |  Temp.  |  Temp.  |       |        |
+ D|            | of water|  of air |       |        |      Since previous noon
+ e|  Remarks   +----+----+----+----+ Lat.  | Long.  +--------+----------+------------
+ c|            |Noon|6   |Noon|6   |       |        | Course | Distance |  Wind and
+ .|            |    |p.m.|    |p.m.|       |        |        |Steam|Sail|  weather
+--+------------+----+----+----+----+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+  |            |F   deg.|F   deg.|F   deg.|F   deg.|   deg.  ' |   deg.  '  |        |     |    |
+ 1|Landed at   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Maitea at   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |10 a.m.     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Left at     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |3:30 p.m.   |... |... |... |... |17 53 S|147 55 W|W, 1/4 deg.N| ... | 139|NE 4 to 3
+ 2|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Tahiti      |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |NE to NW,
+  |at 8 a.m.   |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  17 |  98|5 to a calm
+ 8|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Tahiti at   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |6 p.m.      |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | ... | ...| ...
+ 9| ...  ...   |82.3|82  |80  |79  |15 28 S|149 24 W|  ...   | 101 |  24|ENE and E 5
+10| ...  ...   |82.5|82  |80.3|79  |13 31 S|149 45 W|N, 10 deg. W| ... | 124|NE by
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |E 3 to 7
+11| ...  ...   |83.3|82.5|81  |79.2|11  0 S|150  3 W|  ...   | ... | 155|NE and NE 5
+12| ...  ...   |83.6|81  |79.4|79  | 9 10 S|149 48 W|N,  8 deg. W| ... | 151|NE 4 to 5
+13| ...  ...   |83  |82  |80.2|78.5| 5 34 S|150 45 W|N, 15 deg. W| ... | 224|NE 5
+14|Crossed     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Equator at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |4.30 a.m.   |81.5|80  |80  |77.8| 2 12 S|152 18 W|N, 24 deg. W| ... | 221|NE 5
+15| ...  ...   |81.5|81  |80.7|79  | 1 10 N|152  3 W|N,  4 deg. E| ... | 203|NE by E 5,
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |SE 6
+16| ...  ...   |81.2|81  |78.3|78  | 3 15 N|151 26 W|N, 17 deg. E|  22 | 109|SE 5
+17|To Hilo,    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |885 Miles   |81.5|82.3|79.8|78.2| 5 28 N|150 16 W|N, 58 deg. E| 136 |  15|In Doldrums
+18| ...  ...   |83  |82  |79.7|78  | 7 54 N|150 36 W| , 11 deg. W|  48 | 105|NE 5 to 7
+19| ...  ...   |81  |80  |77.5|77  |10 22 N|152 37 W| , 22 deg. W| ... | 160| ...
+20| ...  ...   |79.5|79  |77.3|77  |13 43 N|152 43 W|N, 18 deg. W| ... | 212|NE 7
+21| ...  ...   |78.2|78  |74  |73.8|16 28 N|153 28 W|N,  5 deg. W|  26 | 145|Lost NE
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |Trades in
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |heavy
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |showers
+22|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Hilo, Hawaii|    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 3.30 p.m.|77.2| ...|74.5|... |19 44 N|155  4 W|N, 25 deg. W| 202 |  38| ...
+26|Left Hilo   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 5.15 p.m.|... |77.8|... |74.3|  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | ... | ...| ...
+27|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Honolulu,   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Oahu, at    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |5.15 p.m.   |78  |... |76  |... |20 42 N|157 20 W|Various | 200 | ...| ...
+  |            |---------|---------|       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Average     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |temperature |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |for         |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |the month   |  80.1 deg.  |  78.4 deg.  |       |        |        |     |    |
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+
+
+JANUARY 1877.
+
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------------------------------
+  |            |  Temp.  |  Temp.  |       |        |
+ J|            | of water|  of air |       |        |      Since previous noon
+ a|  Remarks   +----+----+----+----+ Lat.  | Long.  +--------+----------+------------
+ n|            |Noon|6   |Noon|6   |       |        | Course | Distance |  Wind and
+ .|            |    |p.m.|    |p.m.|       |        |        |Steam|Sail|  weather
+--+------------+----+----+----+----+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+  |            |F   deg.|F   deg.|F   deg.|F   deg.|   deg.  ' |   deg.  '  |        |     |    |
+ 3|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Honolulu at |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |5 p.m.      |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | ... | ...|ENE 4
+ 4| ...  ...   |78.2|77.8|78.1|76  |20 10 N|159 50 W|S, 59 deg. W|  65 |  70|E by S 6
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |to 8
+ 5| ...  ...   |78  |77.7|76.8|76.6|20  4 N|164  5 W|W       | ... | 240|SE by S 8
+ 6| ...  ...   |79.3|78.1|78.5|77.8|20  3 N|168 53 W|W       | ... | 253|S by E 7
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |to 9
+ 7| ...  ...   |79  |77  |74.2|74  |19 31 N|169 35 W|S, 60 deg. W| ... | 120|N 1/2, W 9
+ 8| ...  ...   |78.2|77.8|73.2|71.5|17 15 N|173  8 W|S, 59 deg. W| ... | 244|N by E 9
+ 9| ...  ...   |79.8|78  |74  |71.7|16 44 N|177 15 W|S, 82 deg. W| ... | 240|E by S 2
+10| ...  ...   |79.8|79.5|76  |74.2|17 15 N|179  6 W|N, 74 deg. W|  20 |  92|Calms
+11|180 deg.        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |longitude   |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | ... | ...| ...
+12| ...  ...   |80.2|80  |77.8|75.5|17 16 N|178 28 E|W       | 102 |  38|S by E 4
+13| ...  ...   |80.3|79.8|78.2|75.2|17 19 N|176 29 E|W       | ... | 115|NE 3
+14|To Yokohama,|    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |2,700 miles |80  |79.8|75.2|75  |16  1 N|173 25 E|S, 66 deg. W|  98 |  96|NNE 10
+15| ...  ...   |80.2|80  |73.8|73.5|16  2 N|168 15 E|W       | ... | 298|NE 9
+16| ...  ...   |80.1|79.7|75  |74.2|16 38 N|163 47 E|N, 82 deg. W| ... | 260|ENE 7
+17| ...  ...   |79  |78.2|76  |75  |17  3 N|159 37 E|N, 84 deg. W| ... | 240|ENE 6
+18| ...  ...   |79.8|79  |76  |75.2|17 36 N|155 40 E|N, 82 deg. W| ... | 229|ENE 4
+19| ...  ...   |79  |78.4|77  |75.2|18 16 N|153 11 E|N, 74 deg. W| ... | 148|NNE 2
+20| ...  ...   |79.2|78  |76  |75  |18 57 N|150 23 E|N, 75 deg. W| 151 |  13|N by W 3
+21| ...  ...   |78.2|77.2|73.5|72.3|19 36 N|147 19 E|N, 77 deg. W| 128 |  50|N by W to
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |NNW 4 to 5
+22| ...  ...   |77.5|76.3|67.5|66  |20  7 N|144  5 E|N, 81 deg. W| ... | 185|NNE 8 to 7
+23| ...  ...   |71  |70  |62.5|61.5|21 52 N|141 39 E|N, 52 deg. W| ... | 172|NNE 5 to 3
+24| ...  ...   |68.5|68  |61.5|59.2|23 33 N|139 29 E|N, 50 deg. W| ... | 158|NE 7 to 6
+25| ...  ...   |68  |67.8|59  |59  |26 12 N|138 10 E|N, 24 deg. W| ... | 174|ESE 3
+26| ...  ...   |65.5|64.5|61  |59.5|29 23 N|137 33 E|N, 10 deg. W| 100 |  94|W 9 to 10
+27| ...  ...   |63.5|64.2|51.5|51  |30 59 N|137 49 E|N,  8  E| ... |  94|NWly 3 to 4
+28| ...  ...   |64  |63.2|48.2|46  |32 40 N|138 35 E|N, 21 deg. E| ... | 108|W by N 7
+29|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Yokohama at |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |3.30 p.m.   |63  |52  |... |41.2|  ...  |  ...   |Various |  60 | 121|Gale
+  |            |---------|---------|       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Average     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |temperature |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |for the     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |month       |  76.8 deg.  |  69.7 deg.  |       |        |        |     |    |
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+
+
+FEBRUARY 1877.
+
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------------------------------
+  |            |  Temp.  |  Temp.  |       |        |
+ F|            | of water|  of air |       |        |      Since previous noon
+ e|  Remarks   +----+----+----+----+ Lat.  | Long.  +--------+----------+------------
+ b|            |Noon|6   |Noon|6   |       |        | Course | Distance |  Wind and
+ .|            |    |p.m.|    |p.m.|       |        |        |Steam|Sail|  weather
+--+------------+----+----+----+----+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+  |            |F   deg.|F   deg.|F   deg.|F   deg.|   deg.  ' |   deg.  '  |        |     |    |
+ 2|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Yokohama    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 6.30     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |p.m.        |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |Various | ... | ...| ...
+ 3| ...  ...   |53  |52  |41.2|41  |  ...  |  ...   |        | 122 | ...|NW 3
+ 4|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |Steering|     |    |
+  |Kobe at     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |7 p.m.      |58  |46  |40  |35.5|  ...  |  ...   |        | 178 | ...|NNE 9
+12|Left Kobe at|    |    |    |    |       |        |along   |     |    |
+  |6 a.m. and  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |returned at |    |    |    |    |       |        |the     |     |    |
+  |2 p.m.      |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |        |  40 | ...| ...
+15|Left Kobe   |    |    |    |    |       |        |South   |     |    |
+  |at 4.30     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  | a.m. and   |    |    |    |    |       |        |Coast   |     |    |
+  |anchored at |    |    |    |    |       |        |of      |     |    |
+  |Ino Ura at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |8.30 p.m.   |46.1|45  |33  |32.5|  ...  |  ...   |Japan   |  90 | ...|W 9
+16|Left Ino Ura|    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 5 a.m.   |49.5|50  |39  |37.5|  ...  |  ...   |        | 110 | ...| ...
+17|Anchored    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |off Isaki   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |lighthouse  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 4 a.m.   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Left the    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |anchorage   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 8.30     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |a.m. and    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Simoneseki  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 11 a.m.  |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  50 | ...| ...
+19|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Simoneseki  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 8.30 a.m.|44.2|58  |34  |41.3|  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  40 | ...| ...
+20| ...  ...   |64  |61  |51  |46.5|31 16 N|131 54 E|  ...   |  64 | 127|NW by W 9
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |to 6
+21| ...  ...   |69  |67  |60  |59.5|29  7 N|129 49 E|SW      | 183 | ...|Calm
+22| ...  ...   |68.2|62  |67  |62  |28 13 N|125 53 E|WSW     |  13 | 208|ESE
+23| ...  ...   |67.3|65.5|65.2|64.2|27 14 N|123  3 E|S, 63 deg. W| ... | 178|SE
+24| ...  ...   |55  |55  |51.8|49  |25  0 N|119 35 E|  ...   |  34 | 183|NE 7 to 10
+25| ...  ...   |61  |... |56.5|... |22 35 N|115 38 E|  ...   | ... | 288|NE 10 to 6
+26|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Hongkong    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 8 a.m.   |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  61 |  29| ...
+  |            |---------|---------|       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Average     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |temperature |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |for the     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |month       |  56.5 deg.  |  48 deg.    |       |        |        |     |    |
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+
+
+MARCH 1877.
+
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------------------------------
+  |            |  Temp.  |  Temp.  |       |        |
+ M|            | of water|  of air |       |        |      Since previous noon
+ a|  Remarks   +----+----+----+----+ Lat.  | Long.  +------ -+----------+------------
+ r|            |Noon|6   |Noon|6   |       |        | Course | Distance | Wind and
+ .|            |    |p.m.|    |p.m.|       |        |        |Steam|Sail| weather
+--+------------+----+----+----+----+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+  |            |F   deg.|F   deg.|F   deg.|F   deg.|   deg.  ' |   deg.  '  |        |     |    |
+ 7|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Hongkong at |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |7 a.m.      |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Macao at    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |1.30 p.m.   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Left at     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |6.30 p.m.   |... |64.5|... |64.3|  ...  |   ...  |  ...   |  45 | ...| ...
+8 | ...  ...   |72.5|72.2|72.3|70  |20  5 N|113 28 E|  ...   | 136 | ...| ...
+9 | ...  ...   |73.8|72  |72  |68  |18  0 N|113  6 E|S       |  48 |  79|E 3
+10| ...  ...   |78  |76.8|73  |71.8|15 40 N|113 48 E|SSE     |  20 | 128|NE 3
+11| ...  ...   |78  |78.2|75.5|74.3|13 45 N|112  1 E|SW by  W| ... | 155|NE 4
+12| ...  ...   |79  |78  |76.4|76  |11 29 N|110 32 E|S, 35 deg. W| ... | 170|NE 4
+13| ...  ...   |77.7|77.5|78  |75.7| 9 34 N|108 33 E|S, 46 deg. W| ... | 171|NE 4
+14| ...  ...   |78  |77.7|77.6|76.3| 7 34 N|107  3 E|SW by  S| ... | 150|NE 3 to 4
+15| ...  ...   |79.5|79  |78  |77  | 4 46 N|106 16 E|S by W, | ... | 176|NE 4
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |1/2 deg. W  |     |    |
+16| ...  ...   |80  |80  |78  |76.3| 2 51 N|104 43 E|SW,     | ... | 150|NE 3 to 4
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |1/2 deg. S  |     |    |
+17|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Singapore   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 8 a.m.   |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  63 |  72|NE 3 to 4
+18|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Singapore   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 3 p.m.   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |and arrived |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at Johore   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 8 p.m.   |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | ... | ...| ...
+19|Left Johore |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 4 a.m.   |... |83.2|... |79.7|  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  36 | ...|Calms
+20|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |and
+  |at Malacca  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 8 a.m.;  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |light
+  |left at     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |airs
+  |11.30a.m.   |... |83.2|... |79.5|  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | 130 | ...|from
+21| ...  ...   |88  |... |80.5|... | 4  4 N|100 30 E|  ...   | 170 | ...|NE
+22|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Penang at   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |8 a.m. left |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 10 p.m.  |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  99 | ...|
+23| ...  ...   |83.8|84.5|88.2|81  | 5 55 N| 98 39 E|  ...   | 109 | ...| ...
+24| ...  ...   |84.2|84  |82  |79  | 6 10 N| 95  5 E|  ...   | 212 | ...| ...
+25| ...  ...   |85  |84  |84.2|80  | 6 26 N| 91 41 E|  ...   | 208 | ...| ...
+26| ...  ...   |85.2|84  |86  |81.5| 6 25 N| 88 25 E|  ...   | 198 | ...| ...
+27| ...  ...   |86  |84.2|87  |79  | 6  4 N| 85  3 E|  ...   | 203 | ...| ...
+28| ...  ...   |85.2|... |83  |... | 5 33 N| 81 29 E|  ...   | 218 | ...| ...
+29|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Point de    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Galle at 7  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |a.m. left   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 9.30 p.m.|... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  85 | ...| ...
+30|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Colombo at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |11 a.m.     |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  90 | ...| ...
+  |            |---------|---------|       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Average     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |temperature |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |for the     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |month       |  79.4 deg.  | 78.2 deg.   |       |        |        |     |    |
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+
+APRIL 1877.
+
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------------------------------
+ A|            |  Temp.  |  Temp.  |       |        |
+ p|            | of water|  of air |       |        |      Since previous noon
+ r|  Remarks   +----+----+----+----+ Lat.  | Long.  +--------+----------+------------
+ i|            |Noon|6   |Noon|6   |       |        | Course | Distance |  Wind and
+ l|            |    |p.m.|    |p.m.|       |        |        |Steam|Sail|  weather
+--+------------+----+----+----+----+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+  |            |F   deg.|F   deg.|F   deg.|F   deg.|   deg.  ' |   deg.  '  |        |     |    |
+ 5|Left Colombo|    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Ceylon, at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |1.30 p.m.   |... |85.5|... |80.8|  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | ... | ...| ...
+ 6| ...  ...   |85.8|85  |83  |80.6| 7 26 N|77 10 E |N, 81 deg. W| 165 | ...|W 1
+ 7| ...  ...   |86  |85  |81  |78.3| 7 31 N|74  7 E |N, 88 deg. W| 190 | ...|N 2
+ 8| ...  ...   |85.8|84.5|81.3|79  | 8 16 N|70 31 E |W       | 216 | ...|N 4 to 3
+ 9| ...  ...   |86  |85  |79  |78  | 8 50 N|66 59 E |W by N  | 213 | ...|Calm
+10| ...  ...   |85  |83.5|81  |78.5| 9 38 N|63 32 E |N, 77 deg. W| 210 | ...|NE 1 to 2
+11| ...  ...   |83.6|82.5|83  |79  |10 27 N|60  1 E |  ...   | 214 | ...|ENE 2
+12| ...  ...   |83.8|82.6|82.2|79  |11 14 N|56 30 E |  ...   | 213 | ...|ENE 3 to 4
+13| ...  ...   |83.5|82.3|82.5|80  |11 38 N|52 57 E |N, 83 deg. W| 210 | ...| ...
+14| ...  ...   |83.2|82  |82.8|80  |12 33 N|49 43 E |  ...   | 198 | ...|E 4
+15|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Aden at     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |10 p.m.     |82.8|82  |81  |79  |12 55 N|46 17 E |N, 84 deg. W| 203 | ...| ...
+16|Left Aden   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 7 p.m.   |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  80 | ...| ...
+17|Off Island  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |of Perim    |82.8|82  |83  |81.7|  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | ... | 105| ...
+18| ...  ...   |82  |82.2|83.4|81.5|16 13 N|41 27 E |  ...   | ... | 230|S 5
+19| ...  ...   |82.5|82  |84  |83  |18 13 N|40  7 E |  ...   |  29 | 116| ...
+20| ...  ...   |83.5|82  |84  |83.6|20 39 N|38 30 E |N, 33 deg. W| 149 |  22|Calms
+21| ...  ...   |86.2|82.3|83.5|82.8|23 33 N|36 50 E |N, 30 deg. W| 190 | ...| ...
+22| ...  ...   |78.3|75  |82  |76  |26 18 N|34 55 E |  ...   | 200 | ...| ...
+23| ...  ...   |75.5|74  |71.5|74.5|27 13 N|34  5 E |NNW     |  80 | ...| ...
+24| ...  ...   |71.3|70.2|71.5|74  |28 16 N|33 16 E |  ...   |  89 |  27| ...
+25|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Suez at     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |6 p.m.      |70  |... |71.5|... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  22 |  51| ...
+26|Left Suez   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 9 a.m.   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Ismailia at |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |7.15 p.m.   |76.5|70  |88  |83.6|  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  50 | ...| ...
+27|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Ismailia at |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |8 a.m.      |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Port Said   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 5:30 p.m.|    |    |    |    |       |        |Working |     |    |
+  |5.30 p.m.   |    |    |    |    |       |        |to      |     |    |
+  |left at     |    |    |    |    |       |        |windward|     |    |
+  |9.30 p.m.   |76.7|... |90  |... |  ...  |  ...   |        |  50 | ...| ...
+28| ...  ...   |66.3|64.2|66  |64  |  ...  |  ...   |under   | 174 | ...|WNW 5
+29|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |steam   |     |    |
+  |Alexandria  |    |    |    |    |       |        |and     |     |    |
+  |at 4.30 a.m.|... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |sail    | 117 | ...|WNW 9 to 7
+  |            |---------|---------|       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Average     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |temperature |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |for the     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |month       |  82.3   |  78     |       |        |        |     |    |
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+
+
+MAY 1877.
+
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------------------------------
+  |            |  Temp.  |  Temp.  |       |        |
+ M|            | of water|  of air |       |        |      Since previous noon
+ a|  Remarks   +----+----+----+----+ Lat.  | Long.  +--------+----------+------------
+ y|            |Noon|6   |Noon|6   |       |        | Course | Distance |  Wind and
+  |            |    |p.m.|    |p.m.|       |        |        |Steam|Sail|  weather
+--+------------+----+----+----+----+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+  |            |F   deg.|F   deg.|F   deg.|F   deg.|   deg.  ' |   deg.  '  |        |     |    |
+ 2|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Alexandria  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 4.30 a.m |68  |65.2|70  |64.5|  ...  |  ...   |WNW     |  28 |   2|Calm a.m.
+ 3| ...  ...   |64  |64  |65.2|64.3|32 30 N|28 39 E |N, 30 deg. W|  32 |  80|Fresh to
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |strong
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |NW winds
+ 4| ...  ...   |63.8|63.5|64.2|64  |34 35 N|28 48 E |N,  3 deg. E| ... | 146|NW 7
+ 5| ...  ...   |65  |64  |66  |64.2|34 48 N|27 13 E |W, 1/2 deg.S|  63 |  61|NW 7 & calms
+ 6| ...  ...   |63  |62.2|66.2|64  |34 54 N|23 11 E |W       | 125 |  75|ESE 7
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |& calms
+ 7| ...  ...   |63.6|63  |64.3|63.6|35 51 N|19 48 E |N, 82 deg. W|  46 | 130|ESE 2
+ 8|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Malta at    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |6 p.m.      |64  |63  |64.5|66.2|35 57 N|15 12 E |W       | 199 |  16|N 4 to 7
+10|Left Malta  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 8.15 a.m.|64  |63  |67  |66.5|  ...  |  ...   |Various |  20 |   5|S 2 to 1
+11| ...  ...   |67  |64  |70  |66  |37 20 N|10 24 E |  ...   | 186 |   7|SE & calm
+12| ...  ...   |64.5|64  |69  |68.5|37 32 N| 6 32 E |WNW     | 192 | ...| ...
+13| ...  ...   |63  |63  |67  |66  |37  7 N| 3  3 E |S, 82 deg. E| 173 | ...|SW by W 5
+  |            |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |to 6
+14| ...  ...   |64  |63.2|66.3|65  |36 50 N| 0 20 E |W, 1/2 deg.S| 163 | ...| ...
+15| ...  ...   |62  |62.3|66.2|66  |36 31 N| 3 43 W |W, 1/2 deg.N| 128 |  35|SE 5
+16|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Gibraltar   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 6:30 a.m.|    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |left at     |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |7.30 p.m.   |... |... |... |... |  ...  |   ...  |  ...   |  48 |  26| ...
+17| ...  ...   |67  |67  |68.2|69  |36 27 N| 7 58 W |Various |  10 | 130|E 8; calm
+18|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Lisbon at   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |6.30 p.m.   |64  |... |63.8|... |38 27 N| 9 26 W |  ...   | 144 |   6|NNE 5
+19|Left Lisbon |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 5 p.m.,  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |and anchored|    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |off Fort St.|    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Julien at   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |9.15 p.m.   |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   |  40 | ...|NNE 7
+20|Left        |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |anchorage   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |at 5 a.m.   |61.5|64  |64  |65  |39 13 N| 9 32 W |  ...   |  60 | ...|N 6
+21| ...  ...   |60.8|59  |61  |63.5|41 36 N| 9  7 W |  ...   | 145 | ...| ...
+22| ...  ...   |56.5|57  |55.5|56.3|43 13 N|10  8 W |N, 22 deg. W|  54 |  86|NE 9
+23| ...  ...   |58  |57  |57  |56  |45  5 N|11  0 W |N, 16 deg. W| ... | 120|NE 7 to 5
+24| ...  ...   |56  |55  |55  |54.3|46 40 N| 8 41 W |  ...   | 149 |   9|NE 3 to 5
+25| ...  ...   |55  |... |54  |... |48 42 N| 6  5 W |  ...   | 160 | ...|NE 3 to 4
+26|Arrived at  |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Cowes at    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |1 p.m.      |... |... |... |... |  ...  |  ...   |  ...   | 230 | ...| ...
+27|Hastings    |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |1.30 a.m.   |    |    |    |    |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |            |---------|---------|       |        |        |     |    |
+  |Average     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |temperature |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |for the     |         |         |       |        |        |     |    |
+  |month       |  65 deg.    |  65.1 deg.  |       |        |        |     |    |
+--+------------+---------+---------+-------+--------+--------+-----+----+------------
+
+
+
+
+When we finally sailed from Cowes, on July 6, 1876, the list of
+persons on board the yacht was as follows:--
+
+THOMAS BRASSEY, ESQ., M.P. (Owner)
+MRS. BRASSEY
+THOMAS ALLNUTT BRASSEY
+MABELLE ANNIE BRASSEY
+MURIEL AGNES BRASSEY
+MARIE ADELAIDE BRASSEY
+HON. A.Y. BINGHAM
+F. HUBERT FREER, ESQ.
+COMMANDER JAMES BROWN, R.N.
+CAPTAIN SQUIRE T.S. LECKY, R.N.R.
+HENRY PERCY POTTER, ESQ. (Surgeon)
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ISAIAH POWELL, Sailing Master
+HENRY KINDRED, Boatswain
+JOHN RIDGE TEMPLEMAN, Carpenter
+CHARLES COOK, Signalman and Gunner
+JAMES ALLEN, Coxswain of the Gig
+JAMES WALFORD, Captain of the Hold
+JOHN FALE, Coxswain of the Cutter
+HENRY PARKER, Second Coxswain of the Gig
+WILLIAM SEBBORN, A.B.
+WALTER SEBBORN    "
+TURNER ENNEW      "
+WILLIAM MOULTON, A.B.
+ALBERT WISEMAN,  "
+JOHN GREEN,      "
+THOMAS TAYLOR    "
+FREDERICK BUTT   "
+HENRY TICHENER   "
+THOMAS POWELL, Forecastle Cook
+WILLIAM COLE, Boy
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ROBERT ROWBOTTOM, Engineer
+CHARLES McKECHNIE, 2nd ditto
+THOMAS KIRKHAM, Leading Fireman
+GEORGE BURREDGE, Fireman
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+GEORGE LESLIE, Steward
+WILLIAM AINSWORTH, Bedroom Steward
+FREDERICK PARSONS, Saloon Steward
+GEORGE BASSETT, 2nd ditto
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+WILLIAM PRYDE, Cook
+JOSEPH SOUTHGATE, Cook's Mate
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+EMMA ADAMS, Nurse
+HARRIET HOWE, Lady's Maid
+MARY PHILLIPS, Stewardess
+
+
+
+
+The list of those who were temporarily on board the yacht during the
+voyage comprised the following persons:--
+
+ARRIVALS.
+
+CREW OF 'MONKSHAVEN' (15) came on board the 'Sunbeam' Sept. 28.
+ARTHUR TURNER, one of the crew, remained on board the 'Sunbeam '
+  as an A.B.
+JOHN SEBBORN, from U.S. 'Ashuelot,' Hongkong.
+JOHN SHAW (Under-Cook), Hongkong.
+ISAAC AYAK, Hongkong.
+JOHN AHANG, Hongkong.
+MAHOMET. Fireman, Galle.
+ABRAHAM, Fireman. Galle.
+TOM DOLLAR, Fireman, Galle.
+MR. and MRS. WOODROFFE, Ismailia,
+(Total, 24.)
+
+DEPARTURES.
+
+T. ALLNUTT BRASSEY, Rio.
+CREW OF 'MONKSHAVEN' (14) placed on board the 'Ultimand', Oct. 5.
+CAPTAIN LECKY, Buenos Ayres.
+GEO. LESLIE, Ensenada.
+CAPTAIN BROWN, Honolulu.
+WM. PRYDE, Honolulu.
+JOHN FALE, Malacca.
+MAHOMET, Fireman, Suez.
+ABRAHAM, Fireman, Suez.
+TOM DOLLAR, Fireman, Aden.
+MR. and MRS. WOODROFFE, Port Said.
+(Total, 25.)
+
+
+
+
+Note.--Many were the preparations to be made before starting on our
+voyage; the crew had to be selected, we had to decide whether all,
+any, or none of the children should be taken, what friends we should
+invite to accompany us, what stores and provisions we should take, and
+to select from our little fleet of boats those which seemed best
+suited for the various requirements of the voyage. The whole number
+comprised
+
+     The 'Gleam,' lifeboat cutter;
+     The 'Glance,' large gig;
+     The 'Ray,' light gig;
+     The 'Trap' (to catch a sunbeam), steam launch;
+     The 'Mote,' dingy;
+     The 'Flash,' light outrigger.
+
+Of these the 'Trap' and the 'Ray' had to be left behind.
+
+
+
+
+_LETTER_
+
+(From the _Times_ of June 2, 1877).
+
+To the Editor of the 'Times.'--Sir,--Believing it possible that some
+interest may attach to the voyage completed on May 27 by the arrival
+of the 'Sunbeam' at Cowes, I venture to offer to your readers a short
+narrative of our proceedings. The expedition is in some respects
+unprecedented; a circumnavigation of 35,400 miles has never before
+been made in the short period of 46 weeks, from which must be deducted
+112 days of well-earned repose in harbour. We had, it is true, the
+advantage of steam, without which such a performance would have been
+an impossibility; but we travelled 20,517 miles under sail alone, and
+the consumption of coal has not exceeded 350 tons. The 'Sunbeam'
+sailed from Cowes on July 6, called at Torbay, Madeira, Teneriffe, and
+the Cape Verde, crossed the Line on August 8, and, carrying a
+favourable breeze in the south-east trades, without even a momentary
+lull, a distance of 2,500 miles, arrived at Rio Janeiro on August 17.
+Following the coasts of South America, we visited Montevideo, Buenos
+Ayres, and Ensenada, steamed through the Straits of Magellan and
+Smyth's Channel, and reached Valparaiso on October 21.
+
+While on the coast of Patagonia it was our privilege to rescue a crew
+of 15 hands from the bark 'Monkshaven,' laden with an inflammable
+cargo of smelting coals, which had been on fire six days when we most
+providentially descried her signals of distress.
+
+On October 30 we commenced our long and lonely voyage of 12,330 miles
+across the Pacific. We touched at Bow Island in the Low Archipelago,
+Maitea and Tahiti in the Society Islands, and Hawaii and Oahu in the
+Sandwich group. On January 21 we sighted Assumption in the Ladrones,
+and on the 29th arrived at Yokohama. While in Japan we were present at
+the opening of the railway from Osaka to Kioto by the Mikado, and
+subsequently cruised in the Inland Sea in severe winterly weather. At
+Simonoseki we found the people much agitated by the recent outbreak of
+the Satsuma clan. On February 19 we bade a reluctant farewell to
+Japan, and following the most direct route to England, visited in
+succession Hongkong, Canton, Macao, Singapore, Johore, Malacca,
+Penang, Galle, Colombo, Aden, Alexandria, Malta, Gibraltar, and
+Lisbon.
+
+Having given the principal dates, the story of the voyage will be most
+rapidly completed by entering our successive passages in a tabular
+statement:
+
+                                                      Miles
+
+                                               Steam   Sail  Total
+
+Thames and English Channel                       193    205    398
+
+Torbay to Madeira                                353    874  1,227
+
+Madeira to Orotava (Teneriffe)                   164     72    236
+
+Orotava to Tarafal Bay (San Antonio, Cape Verde)  35    886    921
+
+Tarafal Bay to Rio Janeiro                       689  2,647  3,336
+
+Rio to Monte Video and Buenos Ayres              509    712  1,221
+
+Buenos Ayres to Possession Bay
+(Straits of Magellan).                           816    524  1,340
+
+In Straits of Magellan and Smyth's Channel       565     --    565
+
+To Lota and Valparaiso                           634    500  1,134
+
+Valparaiso to Yokohama, calling at Hao in
+the Paumotu Group, Maitea and Tahiti in
+the Society Islands, and Hawaii and Oahu
+in the Sandwich Group                          2,108 10,225 12,333
+
+Yokohama to Kobe and Simonoseki, through
+the Inland Sea                                   653     --    653
+
+Simonoseki to Hongkong                           395  1,015  1,410
+
+Hongkong to Singapore                            312  1,251  1,563
+
+Singapore to Point de Galle, calling at the
+Straits Settlements                            1,668     --  1,668
+
+Galle to Colombo and Aden                      2,202     --  2,202
+
+Aden to Suez                                     807    551  1,358
+
+Suez to Alexandria                               436     --    436
+
+Alexandria to Cowes, touching at Malta,
+Gibraltar, and Lisbon                          2,440    934  3,374
+
+             Total . . . . . . . . . . . . .  14,979 20,396 35,375
+
+
+Having sketched the voyage in outline, the following details may not
+be devoid of interest to readers with nautical tastes.
+
+Every yachtsman should be a lover of sailing. In the cruise of the
+'Sunbeam,' although expedition was an essential consideration, steam
+has been used almost exclusively in calms or in narrow waters, or
+when, as it has often happened, we have sailed at sunset after a hard
+day's work on board, intending to make an offing during the night and
+set sails in the morning.
+
+Of the total distance of 15,000 knots under steam, 12,000 were
+traversed under those special circumstances which seem to justify even
+a yachtsman in availing himself of the unromantic but invaluable
+engine.
+
+The best run under steam alone was 230 knots, and the most successful
+continuous performance was on the passage from Penang to Galle, in the
+week ending April 15, when the 'Sunbeam' steamed 1,451 knots, with a
+daily consumption of 4-1/4 tons of coal.
+
+The best runs under sail from noon to noon were 298 and 299 knots
+respectively. The first was on the passage from Honolulu to Yokohama,
+sailing along the 16th parallel of north latitude, and between 163
+deg. and 168 deg. 15 min. east. The second was in the Formosa Channel.
+
+The highest speed ever attained under sail was 15 knots in a squall in
+the North Pacific.
+
+On 28 days the distance under sail alone has exceeded, and often
+considerably exceeded, 200 knots.
+
+The best consecutive runs under sail only were:--
+
+I. Week ending August 13, South Atlantic. In the south-east trades,
+wind a-beam, force 5--1,456 knots.
+
+II. Week ending November 19, South Pacific, south-east trades, wind
+aft, force 5--1,360 knots.
+
+III. Four days, January 15 to 18, North Pacific, north-east trades,
+wind on the quarter, force 5 to 9--1,027 knots. The average speed in
+this case was 107 knots an hour.
+
+The following were the average speeds of the longer passages:--
+
+                             Days     Total     Distance     Daily
+                              at     Distance     under     Average
+                              Sea                 Steam
+
+1  Cape Verde to Rio          18      3,336        689        185
+
+2  Valparaiso and Yokohama    72     12,333      2,108        171
+
+3  Simonoseki and Aden        37      6,931      4,577        187
+
+The vessel which has carried us so rapidly and safely round the globe
+claims a brief description. She was designed by Mr. St. Clare Byrne,
+of Liverpool, and may be technically defined as a composite
+three-masted topsail-yard screw schooner. The engines, by Messrs.
+Laird, are of 70 nominal or 350 indicated horse-power, and developed a
+speed of 10.13 knots on the measured mile. The bunkers contain 80 tons
+of coal. The average daily consumption is four tons, and the speed
+eight knots in fine weather. The principal dimensions of the hull
+are;--Length for tonnage, 157 ft.; beam, extreme, 27 ft. 6 in.;
+displacement tonnage, 531 tons; area of midship section, 202 square
+feet.
+
+With an addition of 20 ft. to the length, and more engine power, the
+'Sunbeam' presents a type which might be found efficient for naval
+services in distant waters, where good sailing qualities are
+essential, and large ships are not required.
+
+On looking back, and contrasting the anticipated difficulties with the
+actual experiences of the voyage, the ease and certainty with which
+every passage has been made are truly surprising. Our track has been
+for the most part within the Tropics. The storms off the Cape of Good
+Hope and Cape Horn have been avoided in the inland passages of the
+Straits of Magellan and the Suez Canal. We have encountered no
+continuous stormy weather, except during the four days preceding our
+arrival at Yokohama. We have suffered discomfort from heat and
+detention in calms, but storms have disturbed us seldom, and they have
+not lasted long.
+
+Our experience of gales include a north-east gale off Cape Finisterre,
+on the outward voyage; a northerly gale between Rio and the River
+Plate, a westerly gale off the east coast of Patagonia, short but
+severe gales on each of the four days preceding our arrival at
+Yokohama, a severe gale from the north-west in the Inland Sea, a
+north-east gale in the Formosa Channel, a northerly gale in the
+Straits of Jubal, a westerly gale off Port Said, and an easterly gale
+on the south coast of Candia. On the passage homewards from Gibraltar
+we met strong northerly winds on the coast of Portugal, and a
+north-east gale off Cape Finisterre.
+
+The navigation has presented few difficulties. All the coasts that we
+have visited have been surveyed. Lighthouses are now as numerous and
+efficient on the coasts of China and Japan as on the shores of Europe.
+Such is the perfection of the modern chronometer, that lunar
+observations, the only difficult work in ocean navigation, are no
+longer necessary; and the wind charts published by the Admiralty
+supply to the amateur navigator accumulated information and valuable
+hints for every stage of his voyage.
+
+How infinitely easy is the task of the modern circumnavigator compared
+with the hazardous explorations of Magelhaens and Captain Cook, when
+the chronometer was an instrument of rude and untrustworthy quality,
+when there were no charts, and the roaring of the breakers in the dead
+of night was the mariner's first warning that a coral reef was near!
+
+Our comprehensive and varied cruise has strengthened my former
+convictions that the disasters due to negligence bear a large
+proportion to the number of inevitable losses. Every coast is
+dangerous to the careless commander; but there are no frequented seas
+where, with the exercise of caution and reasonable skill, the dangers
+cannot be avoided. These remarks do not, of course, apply to cases of
+disaster from stress of weather. In fogs there must be delay, though
+not necessarily danger.
+
+In these days of lamentation over the degeneracy of the British
+seaman, my experience may be accepted as a contribution to the mass of
+evidence on this vexed question. I have not been surrounded by such
+smart seamen as can only be found on a man-of-war, but I have no
+ground for general or serious complaint. Many of my crew have done
+their duty most faithfully. In emergencies everybody has risen to the
+occasion, and has done best when his skill or endurance was most
+severely tried--
+
+   'My mariners,
+    Souls that have toiled and wrought and thought with me,
+    That ever with a frolic welcome took
+    The thunder and the sunshine.'
+
+It is always in stormy weather that the good qualities of the British
+seaman are displayed to the greatest advantage. The difficulty is to
+keep up his interest and energies in long intervals of fine weather,
+when nothing occurs to rouse him to an effort, and the faculties of
+the seaman before the mast, no less than those of his officer, are
+benumbed by the monotony and isolation from mankind, which are the
+gravest drawbacks of a sailor's life. It is in these dull moments that
+men are tempted to drink and quarrel, that officers become tyrannical,
+and their crews insubordinate, or even mutinous. Lest it should be
+thought that my impressions of the average sailor are derived from an
+exceptional crew or picked men, I have only to add that the manning of
+the 'Sunbeam' was a family job. The sailing master was related by
+blood or marriage to the majority of his subordinates--fishermen from
+the coast of Essex, who had received their early training among the
+banks and shoals at the mouth of the Thames.
+
+In this connection I tender my sincere tribute of praise to the
+officers of the Navy for their success in maintaining the efficiency
+and spirit of their crews through long commissions on foreign
+stations, much time being necessarily spent in harbour, in many cases
+in the most enervating climates. The discipline of the service seems
+to be admirable, and the seamen are reconciled to it by tradition, by
+early training, and perhaps by an instinctive perception of its
+necessity.
+
+I am equally bound to commend the efficiency of our consular service
+in the remotest outposts of civilisation which we have visited; and
+evidences of good colonial administration are abundantly manifest in
+Hongkong, Singapore, Penang, Ceylon, and Aden, in the prosperity and
+contentment of the people.
+
+It is scarcely necessary to observe, in conclusion, that experiences
+may be gathered in a voyage of circumnavigation which are not to be
+gleaned from Blue-books or from shorter cruises in European waters. A
+more vivid impression is formed of the sailor's daily life, of his
+privations at sea, and his temptations on shore. The services required
+of the Navy are more clearly appreciated after a visit to distant
+foreign stations.
+
+Such a voyage is, indeed, a serious effort. It demands many laborious
+days and anxious nights of watching. For my safe return to 'those
+pale, those white-faced shores,' so welcome to the homeward-bound,
+accompanied, happily, by the adventurous little family who have taken
+part in the expedition, I am truly thankful.
+
+I am, Sir, your obedient servant,
+
+THOMAS BRASSEY.
+
+COWES
+
+actual experiences of the voyage, the ease and certainty with which
+every passage has been made are truly surprising. Our track has been
+for the most part within the Tropics. The storms off the Cape of Good
+Hope and Cape Horn have been avoided in the inland passages of the
+Straits of Magellan and the Suez Canal. We have encountered no
+continuous stormy weather, except during the four days preceding our
+arrival at Yokohama. We have suffered discomfort from heat and
+detention in calms, but storms have disturbed us seldom, and they have
+not lasted long.
+
+Our experience of gales include a north-east gale off Cape Finisterre,
+on the outward voyage; a northerly gale between Rio and the River
+Plate, a westerly gale off the east coast of Patagonia, short but
+severe gales on each of the four days preceding our arrival at
+Yokohama, a severe gale from the north-west in the Inland Sea, a
+north-east gale in the Formosa Channel, a northerly gale in the
+Straits of Jubal, a westerly gale off Port Said, and an easterly gale
+on the south coast of Candia. On the passage homewards from Gibraltar
+we met strong northerly winds on the coast of Portugal, and a
+north-east gale off Cape Finisterre.
+
+The navigation has presented few difficulties. All the coasts that we
+have visited have been surveyed. Lighthouses are now as numerous and
+efficient on the coasts of China and Japan as on the shores of Europe.
+Such is the perfection of the modern chronometer, that lunar
+observations, the only difficult work in ocean navigation, are no
+longer necessary; and the wind charts published by the Admiralty
+supply to the amateur navigator accumulated information and valuable
+hints for every stage of his voyage.
+
+How infinitely easy is the task of the modern circumnavigator compared
+with the hazardous explorations of Magelhaens and Captain Cook, when
+the chronometer was an instrument of rude and untrustworthy quality,
+when there were no charts, and the roaring of the breakers in the dead
+of night was the mariner's first warning that a coral reef was near!
+
+Our comprehensive and varied cruise has strengthened my former
+convictions that the disasters due to negligence bear a large
+proportion to the number of inevitable losses. Every coast is
+dangerous to the careless commander; but there are no frequented seas
+where, with the exercise of caution and reasonable skill, the dangers
+cannot be avoided. These remarks do not, of course, apply to cases of
+disaster from stress of weather. In fogs there must be delay, though
+not necessarily danger.
+
+In these days of lamentation over the degeneracy of the British
+seaman, my experience may be accepted as a contribution to the mass of
+evidence on this vexed question. I have not been surrounded by such
+smart seamen as can only be found on a man-of-war, but I have no
+ground for general or serious complaint. Many of my crew have done
+their duty most faithfully. In emergencies everybody has risen to the
+occasion, and has done best when his skill or endurance was most
+severely tried--
+
+   'My mariners,
+    Souls that have toiled and wrought and thought with me,
+    That ever with a frolic welcome took
+    The thunder and the sunshine.'
+
+It is always in stormy weather that the good qualities of the British
+seaman are displayed to the greatest advantage. The difficulty is to
+keep up his interest and energies in long intervals of fine weather,
+when nothing occurs to rouse him to an effort, and the faculties of
+the seaman before the mast, no less than those of his officer, are
+benumbed by the monotony and isolation from mankind, which are the
+gravest drawbacks of a sailor's life. It is in these dull moments that
+men are tempted to drink and quarrel, that officers become tyrannical,
+and their crews insubordinate, or even mutinous. Lest it should be
+thought that my impressions of the average sailor are derived from an
+exceptional crew or picked men, I have only to add that the manning of
+the 'Sunbeam' was a family job. The sailing master was related by
+blood or marriage to the majority of his subordinates--fishermen from
+the coast of Essex, who had received their early training among the
+banks and shoals at the mouth of the Thames.
+
+In this connection I tender my sincere tribute of praise to the
+officers of the Navy for their success in maintaining the efficiency
+and spirit of their crews through long commissions on foreign
+stations, much time being necessarily spent in harbour, in many cases
+in the most enervating climates. The discipline of the service seems
+to be admirable, and the seamen are reconciled to it by tradition, by
+early training, and perhaps by an instinctive perception of its
+necessity.
+
+I am equally bound to commend the efficiency of our consular service
+in the remotest outposts of civilisation which we have visited; and
+evidences of good colonial administration are abundantly manifest in
+Hongkong, Singapore, Penang, Ceylon, and Aden, in the prosperity and
+contentment of the people.
+
+It is scarcely necessary to observe, in conclusion, that experiences
+may be gathered in a voyage of circumnavigation which are not to be
+gleaned from Blue-books or from shorter cruises in European waters. A
+more vivid impression is formed of the sailor's daily life, of his
+privations at sea, and his temptations on shore. The services required
+of the Navy are more clearly appreciated after a visit to distant
+foreign stations.
+
+Such a voyage is, indeed, a serious effort. It demands many laborious
+days and anxious nights of watching. For my safe return to 'those
+pale, those white-faced shores,' so welcome to the homeward-bound,
+accompanied, happily, by the adventurous little family who have taken
+part in the expedition, I am truly thankful.
+
+I am, Sir, your obedient servant,
+
+THOMAS BRASSEY.
+
+COWES
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE IN THE 'SUNBEAM'***
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