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authorRoger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>2025-10-15 04:45:02 -0700
committerRoger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>2025-10-15 04:45:02 -0700
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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14658 ***
+
+THE ROAD
+
+by
+
+JACK LONDON
+
+(New York: Macmillan)
+
+1907
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TO
+
+JOSIAH FLYNT
+
+The Real Thing, Blowed in the Glass
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+ CONFESSION
+
+ HOLDING HER DOWN
+
+ PICTURES
+
+ "PINCHED"
+
+ THE PEN
+
+ HOBOES THAT PASS IN THE NIGHT
+
+ ROAD-KIDS AND GAY-CATS
+
+ TWO THOUSAND STIFFS
+
+ BULLS
+
+
+
+
+ "Speakin' in general, I 'ave tried 'em all,
+ The 'appy roads that take you o'er the world.
+ Speakin' in general, I 'ave found them good
+ For such as cannot use one bed too long,
+ But must get 'ence, the same as I 'ave done,
+ An' go observin' matters till they die."
+
+ --Sestina of the Tramp-Royal
+
+
+
+
+CONFESSION
+
+
+There is a woman in the state of Nevada to whom I once lied
+continuously, consistently, and shamelessly, for the matter of a
+couple of hours. I don't want to apologize to her. Far be it from me.
+But I do want to explain. Unfortunately, I do not know her name, much
+less her present address. If her eyes should chance upon these lines,
+I hope she will write to me.
+
+It was in Reno, Nevada, in the summer of 1892. Also, it was fair-time,
+and the town was filled with petty crooks and tin-horns, to say
+nothing of a vast and hungry horde of hoboes. It was the hungry hoboes
+that made the town a "hungry" town. They "battered" the back doors of
+the homes of the citizens until the back doors became unresponsive.
+
+A hard town for "scoffings," was what the hoboes called it at that
+time. I know that I missed many a meal, in spite of the fact that I
+could "throw my feet" with the next one when it came to "slamming a
+gate" for a "poke-out" or a "set-down," or hitting for a "light piece"
+on the street. Why, I was so hard put in that town, one day, that I
+gave the porter the slip and invaded the private car of some itinerant
+millionnaire. The train started as I made the platform, and I headed
+for the aforesaid millionnaire with the porter one jump behind and
+reaching for me. It was a dead heat, for I reached the millionnaire at
+the same instant that the porter reached me. I had no time for
+formalities. "Gimme a quarter to eat on," I blurted out. And as I
+live, that millionnaire dipped into his pocket and gave me ... just
+... precisely ... a quarter. It is my conviction that he was so
+flabbergasted that he obeyed automatically, and it has been a matter
+of keen regret ever since, on my part, that I didn't ask him for a
+dollar. I know that I'd have got it. I swung off the platform of that
+private car with the porter manoeuvring to kick me in the face. He
+missed me. One is at a terrible disadvantage when trying to swing off
+the lowest step of a car and not break his neck on the right of way,
+with, at the same time, an irate Ethiopian on the platform above
+trying to land him in the face with a number eleven. But I got the
+quarter! I got it!
+
+But to return to the woman to whom I so shamelessly lied. It was in
+the evening of my last day in Reno. I had been out to the race-track
+watching the ponies run, and had missed my dinner (_i.e._ the mid-day
+meal). I was hungry, and, furthermore, a committee of public safety
+had just been organized to rid the town of just such hungry mortals as
+I. Already a lot of my brother hoboes had been gathered in by John
+Law, and I could hear the sunny valleys of California calling to me
+over the cold crests of the Sierras. Two acts remained for me to
+perform before I shook the dust of Reno from my feet. One was to catch
+the blind baggage on the westbound overland that night. The other was
+first to get something to eat. Even youth will hesitate at an
+all-night ride, on an empty stomach, outside a train that is tearing
+the atmosphere through the snow-sheds, tunnels, and eternal snows of
+heaven-aspiring mountains.
+
+But that something to eat was a hard proposition. I was "turned down"
+at a dozen houses. Sometimes I received insulting remarks and was
+informed of the barred domicile that should be mine if I had my just
+deserts. The worst of it was that such assertions were only too true.
+That was why I was pulling west that night. John Law was abroad in the
+town, seeking eagerly for the hungry and homeless, for by such was his
+barred domicile tenanted.
+
+At other houses the doors were slammed in my face, cutting short my
+politely and humbly couched request for something to eat. At one house
+they did not open the door. I stood on the porch and knocked, and they
+looked out at me through the window. They even held one sturdy little
+boy aloft so that he could see over the shoulders of his elders the
+tramp who wasn't going to get anything to eat at their house.
+
+It began to look as if I should be compelled to go to the very poor
+for my food. The very poor constitute the last sure recourse of the
+hungry tramp. The very poor can always be depended upon. They never
+turn away the hungry. Time and again, all over the United States, have
+I been refused food by the big house on the hill; and always have I
+received food from the little shack down by the creek or marsh, with
+its broken windows stuffed with rags and its tired-faced mother broken
+with labor. Oh, you charity-mongers! Go to the poor and learn, for the
+poor alone are the charitable. They neither give nor withhold from
+their excess. They have no excess. They give, and they withhold never,
+from what they need for themselves, and very often from what they
+cruelly need for themselves. A bone to the dog is not charity. Charity
+is the bone shared with the dog when you are just as hungry as the
+dog.
+
+There was one house in particular where I was turned down that
+evening. The porch windows opened on the dining room, and through them
+I saw a man eating pie--a big meat-pie. I stood in the open door, and
+while he talked with me, he went on eating. He was prosperous, and out
+of his prosperity had been bred resentment against his less fortunate
+brothers.
+
+He cut short my request for something to eat, snapping out, "I don't
+believe you want to work."
+
+Now this was irrelevant. I hadn't said anything about work. The topic
+of conversation I had introduced was "food." In fact, I didn't want to
+work. I wanted to take the westbound overland that night.
+
+"You wouldn't work if you had a chance," he bullied.
+
+I glanced at his meek-faced wife, and knew that but for the presence
+of this Cerberus I'd have a whack at that meat-pie myself. But
+Cerberus sopped himself in the pie, and I saw that I must placate him
+if I were to get a share of it. So I sighed to myself and accepted his
+work-morality.
+
+"Of course I want work," I bluffed.
+
+"Don't believe it," he snorted.
+
+"Try me," I answered, warming to the bluff.
+
+"All right," he said. "Come to the corner of blank and blank
+streets"--(I have forgotten the address)--"to-morrow morning. You know
+where that burned building is, and I'll put you to work tossing
+bricks."
+
+"All right, sir; I'll be there."
+
+He grunted and went on eating. I waited. After a couple of minutes he
+looked up with an I-thought-you-were-gone expression on his face, and
+demanded:--
+
+"Well?"
+
+"I ... I am waiting for something to eat," I said gently.
+
+"I knew you wouldn't work!" he roared.
+
+He was right, of course; but his conclusion must have been reached by
+mind-reading, for his logic wouldn't bear it out. But the beggar at
+the door must be humble, so I accepted his logic as I had accepted his
+morality.
+
+"You see, I am now hungry," I said still gently. "To-morrow morning I
+shall be hungrier. Think how hungry I shall be when I have tossed
+bricks all day without anything to eat. Now if you will give me
+something to eat, I'll be in great shape for those bricks."
+
+He gravely considered my plea, at the same time going on eating, while
+his wife nearly trembled into propitiatory speech, but refrained.
+
+"I'll tell you what I'll do," he said between mouthfuls. "You come to
+work to-morrow, and in the middle of the day I'll advance you enough
+for your dinner. That will show whether you are in earnest or not."
+
+"In the meantime--" I began; but he interrupted.
+
+"If I gave you something to eat now, I'd never see you again. Oh, I
+know your kind. Look at me. I owe no man. I have never descended so
+low as to ask any one for food. I have always earned my food. The
+trouble with you is that you are idle and dissolute. I can see it in
+your face. I have worked and been honest. I have made myself what I
+am. And you can do the same, if you work and are honest."
+
+"Like you?" I queried.
+
+Alas, no ray of humor had ever penetrated the sombre work-sodden soul
+of that man.
+
+"Yes, like me," he answered.
+
+"All of us?" I queried.
+
+"Yes, all of you," he answered, conviction vibrating in his voice.
+
+"But if we all became like you," I said, "allow me to point out that
+there'd be nobody to toss bricks for you."
+
+I swear there was a flicker of a smile in his wife's eye. As for him,
+he was aghast--but whether at the awful possibility of a reformed
+humanity that would not enable him to get anybody to toss bricks for
+him, or at my impudence, I shall never know.
+
+"I'll not waste words on you," he roared. "Get out of here, you
+ungrateful whelp!"
+
+I scraped my feet to advertise my intention of going, and queried:--
+
+"And I don't get anything to eat?"
+
+He arose suddenly to his feet. He was a large man. I was a stranger in
+a strange land, and John Law was looking for me. I went away
+hurriedly. "But why ungrateful?" I asked myself as I slammed his gate.
+"What in the dickens did he give me to be ungrateful about?" I looked
+back. I could still see him through the window. He had returned to his
+pie.
+
+By this time I had lost heart. I passed many houses by without
+venturing up to them. All houses looked alike, and none looked "good."
+After walking half a dozen blocks I shook off my despondency and
+gathered my "nerve." This begging for food was all a game, and if I
+didn't like the cards, I could always call for a new deal. I made up
+my mind to tackle the next house. I approached it in the deepening
+twilight, going around to the kitchen door.
+
+I knocked softly, and when I saw the kind face of the middle-aged
+woman who answered, as by inspiration came to me the "story" I was to
+tell. For know that upon his ability to tell a good story depends the
+success of the beggar. First of all, and on the instant, the beggar
+must "size up" his victim. After that, he must tell a story that will
+appeal to the peculiar personality and temperament of that particular
+victim. And right here arises the great difficulty: in the instant
+that he is sizing up the victim he must begin his story. Not a minute
+is allowed for preparation. As in a lightning flash he must divine the
+nature of the victim and conceive a tale that will hit home. The
+successful hobo must be an artist. He must create spontaneously and
+instantaneously--and not upon a theme selected from the plenitude of
+his own imagination, but upon the theme he reads in the face of the
+person who opens the door, be it man, woman, or child, sweet or
+crabbed, generous or miserly, good-natured or cantankerous, Jew or
+Gentile, black or white, race-prejudiced or brotherly, provincial or
+universal, or whatever else it may be. I have often thought that to
+this training of my tramp days is due much of my success as a
+story-writer. In order to get the food whereby I lived, I was
+compelled to tell tales that rang true. At the back door, out of
+inexorable necessity, is developed the convincingness and sincerity
+laid down by all authorities on the art of the short-story. Also, I
+quite believe it was my tramp-apprenticeship that made a realist out
+of me. Realism constitutes the only goods one can exchange at the
+kitchen door for grub.
+
+After all, art is only consummate artfulness, and artfulness saves
+many a "story." I remember lying in a police station at Winnipeg,
+Manitoba. I was bound west over the Canadian Pacific. Of course, the
+police wanted my story, and I gave it to them--on the spur of the
+moment. They were landlubbers, in the heart of the continent, and what
+better story for them than a sea story? They could never trip me up on
+that. And so I told a tearful tale of my life on the hell-ship
+_Glenmore_. (I had once seen the _Glenmore_ lying at anchor in San
+Francisco Bay.)
+
+I was an English apprentice, I said. And they said that I didn't talk
+like an English boy. It was up to me to create on the instant. I had
+been born and reared in the United States. On the death of my parents,
+I had been sent to England to my grandparents. It was they who had
+apprenticed me on the _Glenmore_. I hope the captain of the _Glenmore_
+will forgive me, for I gave him a character that night in the Winnipeg
+police station. Such cruelty! Such brutality! Such diabolical
+ingenuity of torture! It explained why I had deserted the _Glenmore_
+at Montreal.
+
+But why was I in the middle of Canada going west, when my grandparents
+lived in England? Promptly I created a married sister who lived in
+California. She would take care of me. I developed at length her
+loving nature. But they were not done with me, those hard-hearted
+policemen. I had joined the _Glenmore_ in England; in the two years
+that had elapsed before my desertion at Montreal, what had the
+_Glenmore_ done and where had she been? And thereat I took those
+landlubbers around the world with me. Buffeted by pounding seas and
+stung with flying spray, they fought a typhoon with me off the coast
+of Japan. They loaded and unloaded cargo with me in all the ports of
+the Seven Seas. I took them to India, and Rangoon, and China, and had
+them hammer ice with me around the Horn and at last come to moorings
+at Montreal.
+
+And then they said to wait a moment, and one policeman went forth into
+the night while I warmed myself at the stove, all the while racking my
+brains for the trap they were going to spring on me.
+
+I groaned to myself when I saw him come in the door at the heels of
+the policeman. No gypsy prank had thrust those tiny hoops of gold
+through the ears; no prairie winds had beaten that skin into wrinkled
+leather; nor had snow-drift and mountain-slope put in his walk that
+reminiscent roll. And in those eyes, when they looked at me, I saw the
+unmistakable sun-wash of the sea. Here was a theme, alas! with half a
+dozen policemen to watch me read--I who had never sailed the China
+seas, nor been around the Horn, nor looked with my eyes upon India and
+Rangoon.
+
+I was desperate. Disaster stalked before me incarnate in the form of
+that gold-ear-ringed, weather-beaten son of the sea. Who was he? What
+was he? I must solve him ere he solved me. I must take a new
+orientation, or else those wicked policemen would orientate me to a
+cell, a police court, and more cells. If he questioned me first,
+before I knew how much he knew, I was lost.
+
+But did I betray my desperate plight to those lynx-eyed guardians of
+the public welfare of Winnipeg? Not I. I met that aged sailorman
+glad-eyed and beaming, with all the simulated relief at deliverance
+that a drowning man would display on finding a life-preserver in his
+last despairing clutch. Here was a man who understood and who would
+verify my true story to the faces of those sleuth-hounds who did not
+understand, or, at least, such was what I endeavored to play-act. I
+seized upon him; I volleyed him with questions about himself. Before
+my judges I would prove the character of my savior before he saved me.
+
+He was a kindly sailorman--an "easy mark." The policemen grew
+impatient while I questioned him. At last one of them told me to shut
+up. I shut up; but while I remained shut up, I was busy creating, busy
+sketching the scenario of the next act. I had learned enough to go on
+with. He was a Frenchman. He had sailed always on French merchant
+vessels, with the one exception of a voyage on a "lime-juicer." And
+last of all--blessed fact!--he had not been on the sea for twenty
+years.
+
+The policeman urged him on to examine me.
+
+"You called in at Rangoon?" he queried.
+
+I nodded. "We put our third mate ashore there. Fever."
+
+If he had asked me what kind of fever, I should have answered,
+"Enteric," though for the life of me I didn't know what enteric was.
+But he didn't ask me. Instead, his next question was:--
+
+"And how is Rangoon?"
+
+"All right. It rained a whole lot when we were there."
+
+"Did you get shore-leave?"
+
+"Sure," I answered. "Three of us apprentices went ashore together."
+
+"Do you remember the temple?"
+
+"Which temple?" I parried.
+
+"The big one, at the top of the stairway."
+
+If I remembered that temple, I knew I'd have to describe it. The gulf
+yawned for me.
+
+I shook my head.
+
+"You can see it from all over the harbor," he informed me. "You don't
+need shore-leave to see that temple."
+
+I never loathed a temple so in my life. But I fixed that particular
+temple at Rangoon.
+
+"You can't see it from the harbor," I contradicted. "You can't see it
+from the town. You can't see it from the top of the stairway.
+Because--" I paused for the effect. "Because there isn't any temple
+there."
+
+"But I saw it with my own eyes!" he cried.
+
+"That was in--?" I queried.
+
+"Seventy-one."
+
+"It was destroyed in the great earthquake of 1887," I explained. "It
+was very old."
+
+There was a pause. He was busy reconstructing in his old eyes the
+youthful vision of that fair temple by the sea.
+
+"The stairway is still there," I aided him. "You can see it from all
+over the harbor. And you remember that little island on the right-hand
+side coming into the harbor?" I guess there must have been one there
+(I was prepared to shift it over to the left-hand side), for he
+nodded. "Gone," I said. "Seven fathoms of water there now."
+
+I had gained a moment for breath. While he pondered on time's changes,
+I prepared the finishing touches of my story.
+
+"You remember the custom-house at Bombay?"
+
+He remembered it.
+
+"Burned to the ground," I announced.
+
+"Do you remember Jim Wan?" he came back at me.
+
+"Dead," I said; but who the devil Jim Wan was I hadn't the slightest
+idea.
+
+I was on thin ice again.
+
+"Do you remember Billy Harper, at Shanghai?" I queried back at him
+quickly.
+
+That aged sailorman worked hard to recollect, but the Billy Harper of
+my imagination was beyond his faded memory.
+
+"Of course you remember Billy Harper," I insisted. "Everybody knows
+him. He's been there forty years. Well, he's still there, that's all."
+
+And then the miracle happened. The sailorman remembered Billy Harper.
+Perhaps there was a Billy Harper, and perhaps he had been in Shanghai
+for forty years and was still there; but it was news to me.
+
+For fully half an hour longer, the sailorman and I talked on in
+similar fashion. In the end he told the policemen that I was what I
+represented myself to be, and after a night's lodging and a breakfast
+I was released to wander on westward to my married sister in San
+Francisco.
+
+But to return to the woman in Reno who opened her door to me in the
+deepening twilight. At the first glimpse of her kindly face I took my
+cue. I became a sweet, innocent, unfortunate lad. I couldn't speak. I
+opened my mouth and closed it again. Never in my life before had I
+asked any one for food. My embarrassment was painful, extreme. I was
+ashamed. I, who looked upon begging as a delightful whimsicality,
+thumbed myself over into a true son of Mrs. Grundy, burdened with all
+her bourgeois morality. Only the harsh pangs of the belly-need could
+compel me to do so degraded and ignoble a thing as beg for food. And
+into my face I strove to throw all the wan wistfulness of famished and
+ingenuous youth unused to mendicancy.
+
+"You are hungry, my poor boy," she said.
+
+I had made her speak first.
+
+I nodded my head and gulped.
+
+"It is the first time I have ever ... asked," I faltered.
+
+"Come right in." The door swung open. "We have already finished
+eating, but the fire is burning and I can get something up for you."
+
+She looked at me closely when she got me into the light.
+
+"I wish my boy were as healthy and strong as you," she said. "But he
+is not strong. He sometimes falls down. He just fell down this
+afternoon and hurt himself badly, the poor dear."
+
+She mothered him with her voice, with an ineffable tenderness in it
+that I yearned to appropriate. I glanced at him. He sat across the
+table, slender and pale, his head swathed in bandages. He did not
+move, but his eyes, bright in the lamplight, were fixed upon me in a
+steady and wondering stare.
+
+"Just like my poor father," I said. "He had the falling sickness. Some
+kind of vertigo. It puzzled the doctors. They never could make out
+what was the matter with him."
+
+"He is dead?" she queried gently, setting before me half a dozen
+soft-boiled eggs.
+
+"Dead," I gulped. "Two weeks ago. I was with him when it happened. We
+were crossing the street together. He fell right down. He was never
+conscious again. They carried him into a drug-store. He died there."
+
+And thereat I developed the pitiful tale of my father--how, after my
+mother's death, he and I had gone to San Francisco from the ranch; how
+his pension (he was an old soldier), and the little other money he
+had, was not enough; and how he had tried book-canvassing. Also, I
+narrated my own woes during the few days after his death that I had
+spent alone and forlorn on the streets of San Francisco. While that
+good woman warmed up biscuits, fried bacon, and cooked more eggs, and
+while I kept pace with her in taking care of all that she placed
+before me, I enlarged the picture of that poor orphan boy and filled
+in the details. I became that poor boy. I believed in him as I
+believed in the beautiful eggs I was devouring. I could have wept for
+myself. I know the tears did get into my voice at times. It was very
+effective.
+
+In fact, with every touch I added to the picture, that kind soul gave
+me something also. She made up a lunch for me to carry away. She put
+in many boiled eggs, pepper and salt, and other things, and a big
+apple. She provided me with three pairs of thick red woollen socks.
+She gave me clean handkerchiefs and other things which I have since
+forgotten. And all the time she cooked more and more and I ate more
+and more. I gorged like a savage; but then it was a far cry across the
+Sierras on a blind baggage, and I knew not when nor where I should
+find my next meal. And all the while, like a death's-head at the
+feast, silent and motionless, her own unfortunate boy sat and stared
+at me across the table. I suppose I represented to him mystery, and
+romance, and adventure--all that was denied the feeble flicker of life
+that was in him. And yet I could not forbear, once or twice, from
+wondering if he saw through me down to the bottom of my mendacious
+heart.
+
+"But where are you going to?" she asked me.
+
+"Salt Lake City," said I. "I have a sister there--a married sister."
+(I debated if I should make a Mormon out of her, and decided against
+it.) "Her husband is a plumber--a contracting plumber."
+
+Now I knew that contracting plumbers were usually credited with making
+lots of money. But I had spoken. It was up to me to qualify.
+
+"They would have sent me the money for my fare if I had asked for it,"
+I explained, "but they have had sickness and business troubles. His
+partner cheated him. And so I wouldn't write for the money. I knew I
+could make my way there somehow. I let them think I had enough to get
+me to Salt Lake City. She is lovely, and so kind. She was always kind
+to me. I guess I'll go into the shop and learn the trade. She has two
+daughters. They are younger than I. One is only a baby."
+
+Of all my married sisters that I have distributed among the cities of
+the United States, that Salt Lake sister is my favorite. She is quite
+real, too. When I tell about her, I can see her, and her two little
+girls, and her plumber husband. She is a large, motherly woman, just
+verging on beneficent stoutness--the kind, you know, that always cooks
+nice things and that never gets angry. She is a brunette. Her husband
+is a quiet, easy-going fellow. Sometimes I almost know him quite
+well. And who knows but some day I may meet him? If that aged
+sailorman could remember Billy Harper, I see no reason why I should
+not some day meet the husband of my sister who lives in Salt Lake
+City.
+
+On the other hand, I have a feeling of certitude within me that I
+shall never meet in the flesh my many parents and grandparents--you
+see, I invariably killed them off. Heart disease was my favorite way
+of getting rid of my mother, though on occasion I did away with her by
+means of consumption, pneumonia, and typhoid fever. It is true, as the
+Winnipeg policemen will attest, that I have grandparents living in
+England; but that was a long time ago and it is a fair assumption that
+they are dead by now. At any rate, they have never written to me.
+
+I hope that woman in Reno will read these lines and forgive me my
+gracelessness and unveracity. I do not apologize, for I am unashamed.
+It was youth, delight in life, zest for experience, that brought me to
+her door. It did me good. It taught me the intrinsic kindliness of
+human nature. I hope it did her good. Anyway, she may get a good laugh
+out of it now that she learns the real inwardness of the situation.
+
+To her my story was "true." She believed in me and all my family, and
+she was filled with solicitude for the dangerous journey I must make
+ere I won to Salt Lake City. This solicitude nearly brought me to
+grief. Just as I was leaving, my arms full of lunch and my pockets
+bulging with fat woollen socks, she bethought herself of a nephew, or
+uncle, or relative of some sort, who was in the railway mail service,
+and who, moreover, would come through that night on the very train on
+which I was going to steal my ride. The very thing! She would take me
+down to the depot, tell him my story, and get him to hide me in the
+mail car. Thus, without danger or hardship, I would be carried
+straight through to Ogden. Salt Lake City was only a few miles farther
+on. My heart sank. She grew excited as she developed the plan and with
+my sinking heart I had to feign unbounded gladness and enthusiasm at
+this solution of my difficulties.
+
+Solution! Why I was bound west that night, and here was I being
+trapped into going east. It _was_ a trap, and I hadn't the heart to
+tell her that it was all a miserable lie. And while I made believe
+that I was delighted, I was busy cudgelling my brains for some way to
+escape. But there was no way. She would see me into the mail-car--she
+said so herself--and then that mail-clerk relative of hers would carry
+me to Ogden. And then I would have to beat my way back over all those
+hundreds of miles of desert.
+
+But luck was with me that night. Just about the time she was getting
+ready to put on her bonnet and accompany me, she discovered that she
+had made a mistake. Her mail-clerk relative was not scheduled to come
+through that night. His run had been changed. He would not come
+through until two nights afterward. I was saved, for of course my
+boundless youth would never permit me to wait those two days. I
+optimistically assured her that I'd get to Salt Lake City quicker if I
+started immediately, and I departed with her blessings and best wishes
+ringing in my ears.
+
+But those woollen socks were great. I know. I wore a pair of them that
+night on the blind baggage of the overland, and that overland went
+west.
+
+
+
+
+HOLDING HER DOWN
+
+
+Barring accidents, a good hobo, with youth and agility, can hold a
+train down despite all the efforts of the train-crew to "ditch"
+him--given, of course, night-time as an essential condition. When such
+a hobo, under such conditions, makes up his mind that he is going to
+hold her down, either he does hold her down, or chance trips him up.
+There is no legitimate way, short of murder, whereby the train-crew
+can ditch him. That train-crews have not stopped short of murder is a
+current belief in the tramp world. Not having had that particular
+experience in my tramp days I cannot vouch for it personally.
+
+But this I have heard of the "bad" roads. When a tramp has "gone
+underneath," on the rods, and the train is in motion, there is
+apparently no way of dislodging him until the train stops. The tramp,
+snugly ensconced inside the truck, with the four wheels and all the
+framework around him, has the "cinch" on the crew--or so he thinks,
+until some day he rides the rods on a bad road. A bad road is usually
+one on which a short time previously one or several trainmen have been
+killed by tramps. Heaven pity the tramp who is caught "underneath" on
+such a road--for caught he is, though the train be going sixty miles
+an hour.
+
+The "shack" (brakeman) takes a coupling-pin and a length of bell-cord
+to the platform in front of the truck in which the tramp is riding.
+The shack fastens the coupling-pin to the bell-cord, drops the former
+down between the platforms, and pays out the latter. The coupling-pin
+strikes the ties between the rails, rebounds against the bottom of the
+car, and again strikes the ties. The shack plays it back and forth,
+now to this side, now to the other, lets it out a bit and hauls it in
+a bit, giving his weapon opportunity for every variety of impact and
+rebound. Every blow of that flying coupling-pin is freighted with
+death, and at sixty miles an hour it beats a veritable tattoo of
+death. The next day the remains of that tramp are gathered up along
+the right of way, and a line in the local paper mentions the unknown
+man, undoubtedly a tramp, assumably drunk, who had probably fallen
+asleep on the track.
+
+As a characteristic illustration of how a capable hobo can hold her
+down, I am minded to give the following experience. I was in Ottawa,
+bound west over the Canadian Pacific. Three thousand miles of that
+road stretched before me; it was the fall of the year, and I had to
+cross Manitoba and the Rocky Mountains. I could expect "crimpy"
+weather, and every moment of delay increased the frigid hardships of
+the journey. Furthermore, I was disgusted. The distance between
+Montreal and Ottawa is one hundred and twenty miles. I ought to know,
+for I had just come over it and it had taken me six days. By mistake I
+had missed the main line and come over a small "jerk" with only two
+locals a day on it. And during these six days I had lived on dry
+crusts, and not enough of them, begged from the French peasants.
+
+Furthermore, my disgust had been heightened by the one day I had spent
+in Ottawa trying to get an outfit of clothing for my long journey. Let
+me put it on record right here that Ottawa, with one exception, is the
+hardest town in the United States and Canada to beg clothes in; the
+one exception is Washington, D.C. The latter fair city is the limit. I
+spent two weeks there trying to beg a pair of shoes, and then had to
+go on to Jersey City before I got them.
+
+But to return to Ottawa. At eight sharp in the morning I started out
+after clothes. I worked energetically all day. I swear I walked forty
+miles. I interviewed the housewives of a thousand homes. I did not
+even knock off work for dinner. And at six in the afternoon, after ten
+hours of unremitting and depressing toil, I was still shy one shirt,
+while the pair of trousers I had managed to acquire was tight and,
+moreover, was showing all the signs of an early disintegration.
+
+At six I quit work and headed for the railroad yards, expecting to
+pick up something to eat on the way. But my hard luck was still with
+me. I was refused food at house after house. Then I got a "hand-out."
+My spirits soared, for it was the largest hand-out I had ever seen in
+a long and varied experience. It was a parcel wrapped in newspapers
+and as big as a mature suit-case. I hurried to a vacant lot and opened
+it. First, I saw cake, then more cake, all kinds and makes of cake,
+and then some. It was all cake. No bread and butter with thick firm
+slices of meat between--nothing but cake; and I who of all things
+abhorred cake most! In another age and clime they sat down by the
+waters of Babylon and wept. And in a vacant lot in Canada's proud
+capital, I, too, sat down and wept ... over a mountain of cake. As one
+looks upon the face of his dead son, so looked I upon that
+multitudinous pastry. I suppose I was an ungrateful tramp, for I
+refused to partake of the bounteousness of the house that had had a
+party the night before. Evidently the guests hadn't liked cake either.
+
+That cake marked the crisis in my fortunes. Than it nothing could be
+worse; therefore things must begin to mend. And they did. At the very
+next house I was given a "set-down." Now a "set-down" is the height of
+bliss. One is taken inside, very often is given a chance to wash, and
+is then "set-down" at a table. Tramps love to throw their legs under a
+table. The house was large and comfortable, in the midst of spacious
+grounds and fine trees, and sat well back from the street. They had
+just finished eating, and I was taken right into the dining room--in
+itself a most unusual happening, for the tramp who is lucky enough to
+win a set-down usually receives it in the kitchen. A grizzled and
+gracious Englishman, his matronly wife, and a beautiful young
+Frenchwoman talked with me while I ate.
+
+I wonder if that beautiful young Frenchwoman would remember, at this
+late day, the laugh I gave her when I uttered the barbaric phrase,
+"two-bits." You see, I was trying delicately to hit them for a "light
+piece." That was how the sum of money came to be mentioned. "What?"
+she said. "Two-bits," said I. Her mouth was twitching as she again
+said, "What?" "Two-bits," said I. Whereat she burst into laughter.
+"Won't you repeat it?" she said, when she had regained control of
+herself. "Two-bits," said I. And once more she rippled into
+uncontrollable silvery laughter. "I beg your pardon," said she; "but
+what ... what was it you said?" "Two-bits," said I; "is there anything
+wrong about it?" "Not that I know of," she gurgled between gasps; "but
+what does it mean?" I explained, but I do not remember now whether or
+not I got that two-bits out of her; but I have often wondered since
+as to which of us was the provincial.
+
+When I arrived at the depot, I found, much to my disgust, a bunch of
+at least twenty tramps that were waiting to ride out the blind
+baggages of the overland. Now two or three tramps on the blind baggage
+are all right. They are inconspicuous. But a score! That meant
+trouble. No train-crew would ever let all of us ride.
+
+I may as well explain here what a blind baggage is. Some mail-cars are
+built without doors in the ends; hence, such a car is "blind." The
+mail-cars that possess end doors, have those doors always locked.
+Suppose, after the train has started, that a tramp gets on to the
+platform of one of these blind cars. There is no door, or the door is
+locked. No conductor or brakeman can get to him to collect fare or
+throw him off. It is clear that the tramp is safe until the next time
+the train stops. Then he must get off, run ahead in the darkness, and
+when the train pulls by, jump on to the blind again. But there are
+ways and ways, as you shall see.
+
+When the train pulled out, those twenty tramps swarmed upon the three
+blinds. Some climbed on before the train had run a car-length. They
+were awkward dubs, and I saw their speedy finish. Of course, the
+train-crew was "on," and at the first stop the trouble began. I jumped
+off and ran forward along the track. I noticed that I was accompanied
+by a number of the tramps. They evidently knew their business. When
+one is beating an overland, he must always keep well ahead of the
+train at the stops. I ran ahead, and as I ran, one by one those that
+accompanied me dropped out. This dropping out was the measure of their
+skill and nerve in boarding a train.
+
+For this is the way it works. When the train starts, the shack rides
+out the blind. There is no way for him to get back into the train
+proper except by jumping off the blind and catching a platform where
+the car-ends are not "blind." When the train is going as fast as the
+shack cares to risk, he therefore jumps off the blind, lets several
+cars go by, and gets on to the train. So it is up to the tramp to run
+so far ahead that before the blind is opposite him the shack will have
+already vacated it.
+
+I dropped the last tramp by about fifty feet, and waited. The train
+started. I saw the lantern of the shack on the first blind. He was
+riding her out. And I saw the dubs stand forlornly by the track as the
+blind went by. They made no attempt to get on. They were beaten by
+their own inefficiency at the very start. After them, in the line-up,
+came the tramps that knew a little something about the game. They let
+the first blind, occupied by the shack, go by, and jumped on the
+second and third blinds. Of course, the shack jumped off the first and
+on to the second as it went by, and scrambled around there, throwing
+off the men who had boarded it. But the point is that I was so far
+ahead that when the first blind came opposite me, the shack had
+already left it and was tangled up with the tramps on the second
+blind. A half dozen of the more skilful tramps, who had run far enough
+ahead, made the first blind, too.
+
+At the next stop, as we ran forward along the track, I counted but
+fifteen of us. Five had been ditched. The weeding-out process had
+begun nobly, and it continued station by station. Now we were
+fourteen, now twelve, now eleven, now nine, now eight. It reminded me
+of the ten little niggers of the nursery rhyme. I was resolved that I
+should be the last little nigger of all. And why not? Was I not
+blessed with strength, agility, and youth? (I was eighteen, and in
+perfect condition.) And didn't I have my "nerve" with me? And
+furthermore, was I not a tramp-royal? Were not these other tramps mere
+dubs and "gay-cats" and amateurs alongside of me? If I weren't the
+last little nigger, I might as well quit the game and get a job on an
+alfalfa farm somewhere.
+
+By the time our number had been reduced to four, the whole train-crew
+had become interested. From then on it was a contest of skill and
+wits, with the odds in favor of the crew. One by one the three other
+survivors turned up missing, until I alone remained. My, but I was
+proud of myself! No Croesus was ever prouder of his first million. I
+was holding her down in spite of two brakemen, a conductor, a fireman,
+and an engineer.
+
+And here are a few samples of the way I held her down. Out ahead, in
+the darkness,--so far ahead that the shack riding out the blind must
+perforce get off before it reaches me,--I get on. Very well. I am
+good for another station. When that station is reached, I dart ahead
+again to repeat the manoeuvre. The train pulls out. I watch her
+coming. There is no light of a lantern on the blind. Has the crew
+abandoned the fight? I do not know. One never knows, and one must be
+prepared every moment for anything. As the first blind comes opposite
+me, and I run to leap aboard, I strain my eyes to see if the shack is
+on the platform. For all I know he may be there, with his lantern
+doused, and even as I spring upon the steps that lantern may smash
+down upon my head. I ought to know. I have been hit by lanterns two or
+three times.
+
+But no, the first blind is empty. The train is gathering speed. I am
+safe for another station. But am I? I feel the train slacken speed. On
+the instant I am alert. A manoeuvre is being executed against me, and
+I do not know what it is. I try to watch on both sides at once, not
+forgetting to keep track of the tender in front of me. From any one,
+or all, of these three directions, I may be assailed.
+
+Ah, there it comes. The shack has ridden out the engine. My first
+warning is when his feet strike the steps of the right-hand side of
+the blind. Like a flash I am off the blind to the left and running
+ahead past the engine. I lose myself in the darkness. The situation is
+where it has been ever since the train left Ottawa. I am ahead, and
+the train must come past me if it is to proceed on its journey. I have
+as good a chance as ever for boarding her.
+
+I watch carefully. I see a lantern come forward to the engine, and I
+do not see it go back from the engine. It must therefore be still on
+the engine, and it is a fair assumption that attached to the handle of
+that lantern is a shack. That shack was lazy, or else he would have
+put out his lantern instead of trying to shield it as he came forward.
+The train pulls out. The first blind is empty, and I gain it. As
+before the train slackens, the shack from the engine boards the blind
+from one side, and I go off the other side and run forward.
+
+As I wait in the darkness I am conscious of a big thrill of pride. The
+overland has stopped twice for me--for me, a poor hobo on the bum. I
+alone have twice stopped the overland with its many passengers and
+coaches, its government mail, and its two thousand steam horses
+straining in the engine. And I weigh only one hundred and sixty
+pounds, and I haven't a five-cent piece in my pocket!
+
+Again I see the lantern come forward to the engine. But this time it
+comes conspicuously. A bit too conspicuously to suit me, and I wonder
+what is up. At any rate I have something else to be afraid of than the
+shack on the engine. The train pulls by. Just in time, before I make
+my spring, I see the dark form of a shack, without a lantern, on the
+first blind. I let it go by, and prepare to board the second blind.
+But the shack on the first blind has jumped off and is at my heels.
+Also, I have a fleeting glimpse of the lantern of the shack who rode
+out the engine. He has jumped off, and now both shacks are on the
+ground on the same side with me. The next moment the second blind
+comes by and I am aboard it. But I do not linger. I have figured out
+my countermove. As I dash across the platform I hear the impact of the
+shack's feet against the steps as he boards. I jump off the other side
+and run forward with the train. My plan is to run forward and get on
+the first blind. It is nip and tuck, for the train is gathering speed.
+Also, the shack is behind me and running after me. I guess I am the
+better sprinter, for I make the first blind. I stand on the steps and
+watch my pursuer. He is only about ten feet back and running hard; but
+now the train has approximated his own speed, and, relative to me, he
+is standing still. I encourage him, hold out my hand to him; but he
+explodes in a mighty oath, gives up and makes the train several cars
+back.
+
+The train is speeding along, and I am still chuckling to myself, when,
+without warning, a spray of water strikes me. The fireman is playing
+the hose on me from the engine. I step forward from the car-platform
+to the rear of the tender, where I am sheltered under the overhang.
+The water flies harmlessly over my head. My fingers itch to climb up
+on the tender and lam that fireman with a chunk of coal; but I know if
+I do that, I'll be massacred by him and the engineer, and I refrain.
+
+At the next stop I am off and ahead in the darkness. This time, when
+the train pulls out, both shacks are on the first blind. I divine
+their game. They have blocked the repetition of my previous play. I
+cannot again take the second blind, cross over, and run forward to
+the first. As soon as the first blind passes and I do not get on, they
+swing off, one on each side of the train. I board the second blind,
+and as I do so I know that a moment later, simultaneously, those two
+shacks will arrive on both sides of me. It is like a trap. Both ways
+are blocked. Yet there is another way out, and that way is up.
+
+So I do not wait for my pursuers to arrive. I climb upon the upright
+ironwork of the platform and stand upon the wheel of the hand-brake.
+This has taken up the moment of grace and I hear the shacks strike the
+steps on either side. I don't stop to look. I raise my arms overhead
+until my hands rest against the down-curving ends of the roofs of the
+two cars. One hand, of course, is on the curved roof of one car, the
+other hand on the curved roof of the other car. By this time both
+shacks are coming up the steps. I know it, though I am too busy to see
+them. All this is happening in the space of only several seconds. I
+make a spring with my legs and "muscle" myself up with my arms. As I
+draw up my legs, both shacks reach for me and clutch empty air. I know
+this, for I look down and see them. Also I hear them swear.
+
+I am now in a precarious position, riding the ends of the down-curving
+roofs of two cars at the same time. With a quick, tense movement, I
+transfer both legs to the curve of one roof and both hands to the
+curve of the other roof. Then, gripping the edge of that curving roof,
+I climb over the curve to the level roof above, where I sit down to
+catch my breath, holding on the while to a ventilator that projects
+above the surface. I am on top of the train--on the "decks," as the
+tramps call it, and this process I have described is by them called
+"decking her." And let me say right here that only a young and
+vigorous tramp is able to deck a passenger train, and also, that the
+young and vigorous tramp must have his nerve with him as well.
+
+The train goes on gathering speed, and I know I am safe until the next
+stop--but only until the next stop. If I remain on the roof after the
+train stops, I know those shacks will fusillade me with rocks. A
+healthy shack can "dewdrop" a pretty heavy chunk of stone on top of a
+car--say anywhere from five to twenty pounds. On the other hand, the
+chances are large that at the next stop the shacks will be waiting for
+me to descend at the place I climbed up. It is up to me to climb down
+at some other platform.
+
+Registering a fervent hope that there are no tunnels in the next half
+mile, I rise to my feet and walk down the train half a dozen cars. And
+let me say that one must leave timidity behind him on such a
+_passear_. The roofs of passenger coaches are not made for midnight
+promenades. And if any one thinks they are, let me advise him to try
+it. Just let him walk along the roof of a jolting, lurching car, with
+nothing to hold on to but the black and empty air, and when he comes
+to the down-curving end of the roof, all wet and slippery with dew,
+let him accelerate his speed so as to step across to the next roof,
+down-curving and wet and slippery. Believe me, he will learn whether
+his heart is weak or his head is giddy.
+
+As the train slows down for a stop, half a dozen platforms from where
+I had decked her I come down. No one is on the platform. When the
+train comes to a standstill, I slip off to the ground. Ahead, and
+between me and the engine, are two moving lanterns. The shacks are
+looking for me on the roofs of the cars. I note that the car beside
+which I am standing is a "four-wheeler"--by which is meant that it has
+only four wheels to each truck. (When you go underneath on the rods,
+be sure to avoid the "six-wheelers,"--they lead to disasters.)
+
+I duck under the train and make for the rods, and I can tell you I am
+mighty glad that the train is standing still. It is the first time I
+have ever gone underneath on the Canadian Pacific, and the internal
+arrangements are new to me. I try to crawl over the top of the truck,
+between the truck and the bottom of the car. But the space is not
+large enough for me to squeeze through. This is new to me. Down in the
+United States I am accustomed to going underneath on rapidly moving
+trains, seizing a gunnel and swinging my feet under to the brake-beam,
+and from there crawling over the top of the truck and down inside the
+truck to a seat on the cross-rod.
+
+Feeling with my hands in the darkness, I learn that there is room
+between the brake-beam and the ground. It is a tight squeeze. I have
+to lie flat and worm my way through. Once inside the truck, I take my
+seat on the rod and wonder what the shacks are thinking has become of
+me. The train gets under way. They have given me up at last.
+
+But have they? At the very next stop, I see a lantern thrust under
+the next truck to mine at the other end of the car. They are searching
+the rods for me. I must make my get-away pretty lively. I crawl on my
+stomach under the brake-beam. They see me and run for me, but I crawl
+on hands and knees across the rail on the opposite side and gain my
+feet. Then away I go for the head of the train. I run past the engine
+and hide in the sheltering darkness. It is the same old situation. I
+am ahead of the train, and the train must go past me.
+
+The train pulls out. There is a lantern on the first blind. I lie low,
+and see the peering shack go by. But there is also a lantern on the
+second blind. That shack spots me and calls to the shack who has gone
+past on the first blind. Both jump off. Never mind, I'll take the
+third blind and deck her. But heavens, there is a lantern on the third
+blind, too. It is the conductor. I let it go by. At any rate I have
+now the full train-crew in front of me. I turn and run back in the
+opposite direction to what the train is going. I look over my
+shoulder. All three lanterns are on the ground and wobbling along in
+pursuit. I sprint. Half the train has gone by, and it is going quite
+fast, when I spring aboard. I know that the two shacks and the
+conductor will arrive like ravening wolves in about two seconds. I
+spring upon the wheel of the hand-brake, get my hands on the curved
+ends of the roofs, and muscle myself up to the decks; while my
+disappointed pursuers, clustering on the platform beneath like dogs
+that have treed a cat, howl curses up at me and say unsocial things
+about my ancestors.
+
+But what does that matter? It is five to one, including the engineer
+and fireman, and the majesty of the law and the might of a great
+corporation are behind them, and I am beating them out. I am too far
+down the train, and I run ahead over the roofs of the coaches until I
+am over the fifth or sixth platform from the engine. I peer down
+cautiously. A shack is on that platform. That he has caught sight of
+me, I know from the way he makes a swift sneak inside the car; and I
+know, also, that he is waiting inside the door, all ready to pounce
+out on me when I climb down. But I make believe that I don't know, and
+I remain there to encourage him in his error. I do not see him, yet I
+know that he opens the door once and peeps up to assure himself that I
+am still there.
+
+The train slows down for a station. I dangle my legs down in a
+tentative way. The train stops. My legs are still dangling. I hear the
+door unlatch softly. He is all ready for me. Suddenly I spring up and
+run forward over the roof. This is right over his head, where he lurks
+inside the door. The train is standing still; the night is quiet, and
+I take care to make plenty of noise on the metal roof with my feet. I
+don't know, but my assumption is that he is now running forward to
+catch me as I descend at the next platform. But I don't descend there.
+Halfway along the roof of the coach, I turn, retrace my way softly and
+quickly to the platform both the shack and I have just abandoned. The
+coast is clear. I descend to the ground on the off-side of the train
+and hide in the darkness. Not a soul has seen me.
+
+I go over to the fence, at the edge of the right of way, and watch.
+Ah, ha! What's that? I see a lantern on top of the train, moving along
+from front to rear. They think I haven't come down, and they are
+searching the roofs for me. And better than that--on the ground on
+each side of the train, moving abreast with the lantern on top, are
+two other lanterns. It is a rabbit-drive, and I am the rabbit. When
+the shack on top flushes me, the ones on each side will nab me. I roll
+a cigarette and watch the procession go by. Once past me, I am safe to
+proceed to the front of the train. She pulls out, and I make the front
+blind without opposition. But before she is fully under way and just
+as I am lighting my cigarette, I am aware that the fireman has climbed
+over the coal to the back of the tender and is looking down at me. I
+am filled with apprehension. From his position he can mash me to a
+jelly with lumps of coal. Instead of which he addresses me, and I note
+with relief the admiration in his voice.
+
+"You son-of-a-gun," is what he says.
+
+It is a high compliment, and I thrill as a schoolboy thrills on
+receiving a reward of merit.
+
+"Say," I call up to him, "don't you play the hose on me any more."
+
+"All right," he answers, and goes back to his work.
+
+I have made friends with the engine, but the shacks are still looking
+for me. At the next stop, the shacks ride out all three blinds, and as
+before, I let them go by and deck in the middle of the train. The
+crew is on its mettle by now, and the train stops. The shacks are
+going to ditch me or know the reason why. Three times the mighty
+overland stops for me at that station, and each time I elude the
+shacks and make the decks. But it is hopeless, for they have finally
+come to an understanding of the situation. I have taught them that
+they cannot guard the train from me. They must do something else.
+
+And they do it. When the train stops that last time, they take after
+me hot-footed. Ah, I see their game. They are trying to run me down.
+At first they herd me back toward the rear of the train. I know my
+peril. Once to the rear of the train, it will pull out with me left
+behind. I double, and twist, and turn, dodge through my pursuers, and
+gain the front of the train. One shack still hangs on after me. All
+right, I'll give him the run of his life, for my wind is good. I run
+straight ahead along the track. It doesn't matter. If he chases me ten
+miles, he'll nevertheless have to catch the train, and I can board her
+at any speed that he can.
+
+So I run on, keeping just comfortably ahead of him and straining my
+eyes in the gloom for cattle-guards and switches that may bring me to
+grief. Alas! I strain my eyes too far ahead, and trip over something
+just under my feet, I know not what, some little thing, and go down to
+earth in a long, stumbling fall. The next moment I am on my feet, but
+the shack has me by the collar. I do not struggle. I am busy with
+breathing deeply and with sizing him up. He is narrow-shouldered, and
+I have at least thirty pounds the better of him in weight. Besides, he
+is just as tired as I am, and if he tries to slug me, I'll teach him a
+few things.
+
+But he doesn't try to slug me, and that problem is settled. Instead,
+he starts to lead me back toward the train, and another possible
+problem arises. I see the lanterns of the conductor and the other
+shack. We are approaching them. Not for nothing have I made the
+acquaintance of the New York police. Not for nothing, in box-cars, by
+water-tanks, and in prison-cells, have I listened to bloody tales of
+man-handling. What if these three men are about to man-handle me?
+Heaven knows I have given them provocation enough. I think quickly. We
+are drawing nearer and nearer to the other two trainmen. I line up the
+stomach and the jaw of my captor, and plan the right and left I'll
+give him at the first sign of trouble.
+
+Pshaw! I know another trick I'd like to work on him, and I almost
+regret that I did not do it at the moment I was captured. I could make
+him sick, what of his clutch on my collar. His fingers,
+tight-gripping, are buried inside my collar. My coat is tightly
+buttoned. Did you ever see a tourniquet? Well, this is one. All I have
+to do is to duck my head under his arm and begin to twist. I must
+twist rapidly--very rapidly. I know how to do it; twisting in a
+violent, jerky way, ducking my head under his arm with each
+revolution. Before he knows it, those detaining fingers of his will be
+detained. He will be unable to withdraw them. It is a powerful
+leverage. Twenty seconds after I have started revolving, the blood
+will be bursting out of his finger-ends, the delicate tendons will be
+rupturing, and all the muscles and nerves will be mashing and crushing
+together in a shrieking mass. Try it sometime when somebody has you by
+the collar. But be quick--quick as lightning. Also, be sure to hug
+yourself while you are revolving--hug your face with your left arm and
+your abdomen with your right. You see, the other fellow might try to
+stop you with a punch from his free arm. It would be a good idea, too,
+to revolve away from that free arm rather than toward it. A punch
+going is never so bad as a punch coming.
+
+That shack will never know how near he was to being made very, very
+sick. All that saves him is that it is not in their plan to man-handle
+me. When we draw near enough, he calls out that he has me, and they
+signal the train to come on. The engine passes us, and the three
+blinds. After that, the conductor and the other shack swing aboard.
+But still my captor holds on to me. I see the plan. He is going to
+hold me until the rear of the train goes by. Then he will hop on, and
+I shall be left behind--ditched.
+
+But the train has pulled out fast, the engineer trying to make up for
+lost time. Also, it is a long train. It is going very lively, and I
+know the shack is measuring its speed with apprehension.
+
+"Think you can make it?" I query innocently.
+
+He releases my collar, makes a quick run, and swings aboard. A number
+of coaches are yet to pass by. He knows it, and remains on the steps,
+his head poked out and watching me. In that moment my next move comes
+to me. I'll make the last platform. I know she's going fast and
+faster, but I'll only get a roll in the dirt if I fail, and the
+optimism of youth is mine. I do not give myself away. I stand with a
+dejected droop of shoulder, advertising that I have abandoned hope.
+But at the same time I am feeling with my feet the good gravel. It is
+perfect footing. Also I am watching the poked-out head of the shack. I
+see it withdrawn. He is confident that the train is going too fast for
+me ever to make it.
+
+And the train _is_ going fast--faster than any train I have ever
+tackled. As the last coach comes by I sprint in the same direction
+with it. It is a swift, short sprint. I cannot hope to equal the speed
+of the train, but I can reduce the difference of our speed to the
+minimum, and, hence, reduce the shock of impact, when I leap on board.
+In the fleeting instant of darkness I do not see the iron hand-rail of
+the last platform; nor is there time for me to locate it. I reach for
+where I think it ought to be, and at the same instant my feet leave
+the ground. It is all in the toss. The next moment I may be rolling in
+the gravel with broken ribs, or arms, or head. But my fingers grip the
+hand-hold, there is a jerk on my arms that slightly pivots my body,
+and my feet land on the steps with sharp violence.
+
+I sit down, feeling very proud of myself. In all my hoboing it is the
+best bit of train-jumping I have done. I know that late at night one
+is always good for several stations on the last platform, but I do not
+care to trust myself at the rear of the train. At the first stop I run
+forward on the off-side of the train, pass the Pullmans, and duck
+under and take a rod under a day-coach. At the next stop I run forward
+again and take another rod.
+
+I am now comparatively safe. The shacks think I am ditched. But the
+long day and the strenuous night are beginning to tell on me. Also, it
+is not so windy nor cold underneath, and I begin to doze. This will
+never do. Sleep on the rods spells death, so I crawl out at a station
+and go forward to the second blind. Here I can lie down and sleep; and
+here I do sleep--how long I do not know--for I am awakened by a
+lantern thrust into my face. The two shacks are staring at me. I
+scramble up on the defensive, wondering as to which one is going to
+make the first "pass" at me. But slugging is far from their minds.
+
+"I thought you was ditched," says the shack who had held me by the
+collar.
+
+"If you hadn't let go of me when you did, you'd have been ditched
+along with me," I answer.
+
+"How's that?" he asks.
+
+"I'd have gone into a clinch with you, that's all," is my reply.
+
+They hold a consultation, and their verdict is summed up in:--
+
+"Well, I guess you can ride, Bo. There's no use trying to keep you
+off."
+
+And they go away and leave me in peace to the end of their division.
+
+I have given the foregoing as a sample of what "holding her down"
+means. Of course, I have selected a fortunate night out of my
+experiences, and said nothing of the nights--and many of them--when I
+was tripped up by accident and ditched.
+
+In conclusion, I want to tell of what happened when I reached the end
+of the division. On single-track, transcontinental lines, the freight
+trains wait at the divisions and follow out after the passenger
+trains. When the division was reached, I left my train, and looked for
+the freight that would pull out behind it. I found the freight, made
+up on a side-track and waiting. I climbed into a box-car half full of
+coal and lay down. In no time I was asleep.
+
+I was awakened by the sliding open of the door. Day was just dawning,
+cold and gray, and the freight had not yet started. A "con"
+(conductor) was poking his head inside the door.
+
+"Get out of that, you blankety-blank-blank!" he roared at me.
+
+I got, and outside I watched him go down the line inspecting every car
+in the train. When he got out of sight I thought to myself that he
+would never think I'd have the nerve to climb back into the very car
+out of which he had fired me. So back I climbed and lay down again.
+
+Now that con's mental processes must have been paralleling mine, for
+he reasoned that it was the very thing I would do. For back he came
+and fired me out.
+
+Now, surely, I reasoned, he will never dream that I'd do it a third
+time. Back I went, into the very same car. But I decided to make sure.
+Only one side-door could be opened. The other side-door was nailed up.
+Beginning at the top of the coal, I dug a hole alongside of that door
+and lay down in it. I heard the other door open. The con climbed up
+and looked in over the top of the coal. He couldn't see me. He called
+to me to get out. I tried to fool him by remaining quiet. But when he
+began tossing chunks of coal into the hole on top of me, I gave up and
+for the third time was fired out. Also, he informed me in warm terms
+of what would happen to me if he caught me in there again.
+
+I changed my tactics. When a man is paralleling your mental processes,
+ditch him. Abruptly break off your line of reasoning, and go off on a
+new line. This I did. I hid between some cars on an adjacent
+side-track, and watched. Sure enough, that con came back again to the
+car. He opened the door, he climbed up, he called, he threw coal into
+the hole I had made. He even crawled over the coal and looked into the
+hole. That satisfied him. Five minutes later the freight was pulling
+out, and he was not in sight. I ran alongside the car, pulled the door
+open, and climbed in. He never looked for me again, and I rode that
+coal-car precisely one thousand and twenty-two miles, sleeping most of
+the time and getting out at divisions (where the freights always stop
+for an hour or so) to beg my food. And at the end of the thousand and
+twenty-two miles I lost that car through a happy incident. I got a
+"set-down," and the tramp doesn't live who won't miss a train for a
+set-down any time.
+
+
+
+
+PICTURES
+
+ "What do it matter where or 'ow we die,
+ So long as we've our 'ealth to watch it all?"
+
+ --Sestina of the Tramp-Royal
+
+
+Perhaps the greatest charm of tramp-life is the absence of monotony.
+In Hobo Land the face of life is protean--an ever changing
+phantasmagoria, where the impossible happens and the unexpected jumps
+out of the bushes at every turn of the road. The hobo never knows what
+is going to happen the next moment; hence, he lives only in the
+present moment. He has learned the futility of telic endeavor, and
+knows the delight of drifting along with the whimsicalities of Chance.
+
+Often I think over my tramp days, and ever I marvel at the swift
+succession of pictures that flash up in my memory. It matters not
+where I begin to think; any day of all the days is a day apart, with a
+record of swift-moving pictures all its own. For instance, I remember
+a sunny summer morning in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, and immediately
+comes to my mind the auspicious beginning of the day--a "set-down"
+with two maiden ladies, and not in their kitchen, but in their dining
+room, with them beside me at the table. We ate eggs, out of egg-cups!
+It was the first time I had ever seen egg-cups, or heard of egg-cups!
+I was a bit awkward at first, I'll confess; but I was hungry and
+unabashed. I mastered the egg-cup, and I mastered the eggs in a way
+that made those two maiden ladies sit up.
+
+Why, they ate like a couple of canaries, dabbling with the one egg
+each they took, and nibbling at tiny wafers of toast. Life was low in
+their bodies; their blood ran thin; and they had slept warm all night.
+I had been out all night, consuming much fuel of my body to keep warm,
+beating my way down from a place called Emporium, in the northern part
+of the state. Wafers of toast! Out of sight! But each wafer was no
+more than a mouthful to me--nay, no more than a bite. It is tedious to
+have to reach for another piece of toast each bite when one is
+potential with many bites.
+
+When I was a very little lad, I had a very little dog called Punch. I
+saw to his feeding myself. Some one in the household had shot a lot of
+ducks, and we had a fine meat dinner. When I had finished, I prepared
+Punch's dinner--a large plateful of bones and tidbits. I went outside
+to give it to him. Now it happened that a visitor had ridden over from
+a neighboring ranch, and with him had come a Newfoundland dog as big
+as a calf. I set the plate on the ground. Punch wagged his tail and
+began. He had before him a blissful half-hour at least. There was a
+sudden rush. Punch was brushed aside like a straw in the path of a
+cyclone, and that Newfoundland swooped down upon the plate. In spite
+of his huge maw he must have been trained to quick lunches, for, in
+the fleeting instant before he received the kick in the ribs I aimed
+at him, he completely engulfed the contents of the plate. He swept it
+clean. One last lingering lick of his tongue removed even the grease
+stains.
+
+As that big Newfoundland behaved at the plate of my dog Punch, so
+behaved I at the table of those two maiden ladies of Harrisburg. I
+swept it bare. I didn't break anything, but I cleaned out the eggs and
+the toast and the coffee. The servant brought more, but I kept her
+busy, and ever she brought more and more. The coffee was delicious,
+but it needn't have been served in such tiny cups. What time had I to
+eat when it took all my time to prepare the many cups of coffee for
+drinking?
+
+At any rate, it gave my tongue time to wag. Those two maiden ladies,
+with their pink-and-white complexions and gray curls, had never looked
+upon the bright face of adventure. As the "Tramp-Royal" would have it,
+they had worked all their lives "on one same shift." Into the sweet
+scents and narrow confines of their uneventful existence I brought the
+large airs of the world, freighted with the lusty smells of sweat and
+strife, and with the tangs and odors of strange lands and soils. And
+right well I scratched their soft palms with the callous on my own
+palms--the half-inch horn that comes of pull-and-haul of rope and long
+and arduous hours of caressing shovel-handles. This I did, not merely
+in the braggadocio of youth, but to prove, by toil performed, the
+claim I had upon their charity.
+
+Ah, I can see them now, those dear, sweet ladies, just as I sat at
+their breakfast table twelve years ago, discoursing upon the way of my
+feet in the world, brushing aside their kindly counsel as a real
+devilish fellow should, and thrilling them, not alone with my own
+adventures, but with the adventures of all the other fellows with whom
+I had rubbed shoulders and exchanged confidences. I appropriated them
+all, the adventures of the other fellows, I mean; and if those maiden
+ladies had been less trustful and guileless, they could have tangled
+me up beautifully in my chronology. Well, well, and what of it? It was
+fair exchange. For their many cups of coffee, and eggs, and bites of
+toast, I gave full value. Right royally I gave them entertainment. My
+coming to sit at their table was their adventure, and adventure is
+beyond price anyway.
+
+Coming along the street, after parting from the maiden ladies, I
+gathered in a newspaper from the doorway of some late-riser, and in a
+grassy park lay down to get in touch with the last twenty-four hours
+of the world. There, in the park, I met a fellow-hobo who told me his
+life-story and who wrestled with me to join the United States Army. He
+had given in to the recruiting officer and was just about to join, and
+he couldn't see why I shouldn't join with him. He had been a member of
+Coxey's Army in the march to Washington several months before, and
+that seemed to have given him a taste for army life. I, too, was a
+veteran, for had I not been a private in Company L of the Second
+Division of Kelly's Industrial Army?--said Company L being commonly
+known as the "Nevada push." But my army experience had had the
+opposite effect on me; so I left that hobo to go his way to the dogs
+of war, while I "threw my feet" for dinner.
+
+This duty performed, I started to walk across the bridge over the
+Susquehanna to the west shore. I forget the name of the railroad that
+ran down that side, but while lying in the grass in the morning the
+idea had come to me to go to Baltimore; so to Baltimore I was going on
+that railroad, whatever its name was. It was a warm afternoon, and
+part way across the bridge I came to a lot of fellows who were in
+swimming off one of the piers. Off went my clothes and in went I. The
+water was fine; but when I came out and dressed, I found I had been
+robbed. Some one had gone through my clothes. Now I leave it to you if
+being robbed isn't in itself adventure enough for one day. I have
+known men who have been robbed and who have talked all the rest of
+their lives about it. True, the thief that went through my clothes
+didn't get much--some thirty or forty cents in nickels and pennies,
+and my tobacco and cigarette papers; but it was all I had, which is
+more than most men can be robbed of, for they have something left at
+home, while I had no home. It was a pretty tough gang in swimming
+there. I sized up, and knew better than to squeal. So I begged "the
+makings," and I could have sworn it was one of my own papers I rolled
+the tobacco in.
+
+Then on across the bridge I hiked to the west shore. Here ran the
+railroad I was after. No station was in sight. How to catch a freight
+without walking to a station was the problem. I noticed that the track
+came up a steep grade, culminating at the point where I had tapped it,
+and I knew that a heavy freight couldn't pull up there any too lively.
+But how lively? On the opposite side of the track rose a high bank. On
+the edge, at the top, I saw a man's head sticking up from the grass.
+Perhaps he knew how fast the freights took the grade, and when the
+next one went south. I called out my questions to him, and he motioned
+to me to come up.
+
+I obeyed, and when I reached the top, I found four other men lying in
+the grass with him. I took in the scene and knew them for what they
+were--American gypsies. In the open space that extended back among the
+trees from the edge of the bank were several nondescript wagons.
+Ragged, half-naked children swarmed over the camp, though I noticed
+that they took care not to come near and bother the men-folk. Several
+lean, unbeautiful, and toil-degraded women were pottering about with
+camp-chores, and one I noticed who sat by herself on the seat of one
+of the wagons, her head drooped forward, her knees drawn up to her
+chin and clasped limply by her arms. She did not look happy. She
+looked as if she did not care for anything--in this I was wrong, for
+later I was to learn that there was something for which she did care.
+The full measure of human suffering was in her face, and, in
+addition, there was the tragic expression of incapacity for further
+suffering. Nothing could hurt any more, was what her face seemed to
+portray; but in this, too, I was wrong.
+
+I lay in the grass on the edge of the steep and talked with the
+men-folk. We were kin--brothers. I was the American hobo, and they
+were the American gypsy. I knew enough of their argot for
+conversation, and they knew enough of mine. There were two more in
+their gang, who were across the river "mushing" in Harrisburg. A
+"musher" is an itinerant fakir. This word is not to be confounded with
+the Klondike "musher," though the origin of both terms may be the
+same; namely, the corruption of the French _marche ons_, to march, to
+walk, to "mush." The particular graft of the two mushers who had
+crossed the river was umbrella-mending; but what real graft lay behind
+their umbrella-mending, I was not told, nor would it have been polite
+to ask.
+
+It was a glorious day. Not a breath of wind was stirring, and we
+basked in the shimmering warmth of the sun. From everywhere arose the
+drowsy hum of insects, and the balmy air was filled with scents of the
+sweet earth and the green growing things. We were too lazy to do more
+than mumble on in intermittent conversation. And then, all abruptly,
+the peace and quietude was jarred awry by man.
+
+Two bare-legged boys of eight or nine in some minor way broke some
+rule of the camp--what it was I did not know; and a man who lay beside
+me suddenly sat up and called to them. He was chief of the tribe, a
+man with narrow forehead and narrow-slitted eyes, whose thin lips and
+twisted sardonic features explained why the two boys jumped and tensed
+like startled deer at the sound of his voice. The alertness of fear
+was in their faces, and they turned, in a panic, to run. He called to
+them to come back, and one boy lagged behind reluctantly, his meagre
+little frame portraying in pantomime the struggle within him between
+fear and reason. He wanted to come back. His intelligence and past
+experience told him that to come back was a lesser evil than to run
+on; but lesser evil that it was, it was great enough to put wings to
+his fear and urge his feet to flight.
+
+Still he lagged and struggled until he reached the shelter of the
+trees, where he halted. The chief of the tribe did not pursue. He
+sauntered over to a wagon and picked up a heavy whip. Then he came
+back to the centre of the open space and stood still. He did not
+speak. He made no gestures. He was the Law, pitiless and omnipotent.
+He merely stood there and waited. And I knew, and all knew, and the
+two boys in the shelter of the trees knew, for what he waited.
+
+The boy who had lagged slowly came back. His face was stamped with
+quivering resolution. He did not falter. He had made up his mind to
+take his punishment. And mark you, the punishment was not for the
+original offence, but for the offence of running away. And in this,
+that tribal chieftain but behaved as behaves the exalted society in
+which he lived. We punish our criminals, and when they escape and run
+away, we bring them back and add to their punishment.
+
+Straight up to the chief the boy came, halting at the proper distance
+for the swing of the lash. The whip hissed through the air, and I
+caught myself with a start of surprise at the weight of the blow. The
+thin little leg was so very thin and little. The flesh showed white
+where the lash had curled and bitten, and then, where the white had
+shown, sprang up the savage welt, with here and there along its length
+little scarlet oozings where the skin had broken. Again the whip
+swung, and the boy's whole body winced in anticipation of the blow,
+though he did not move from the spot. His will held good. A second
+welt sprang up, and a third. It was not until the fourth landed that
+the boy screamed. Also, he could no longer stand still, and from then
+on, blow after blow, he danced up and down in his anguish, screaming;
+but he did not attempt to run away. If his involuntary dancing took
+him beyond the reach of the whip, he danced back into range again. And
+when it was all over--a dozen blows--he went away, whimpering and
+squealing, among the wagons.
+
+The chief stood still and waited. The second boy came out from the
+trees. But he did not come straight. He came like a cringing dog,
+obsessed by little panics that made him turn and dart away for half a
+dozen steps. But always he turned and came back, circling nearer and
+nearer to the man, whimpering, making inarticulate animal-noises in
+his throat. I saw that he never looked at the man. His eyes always
+were fixed upon the whip, and in his eyes was a terror that made me
+sick--the frantic terror of an inconceivably maltreated child. I have
+seen strong men dropping right and left out of battle and squirming in
+their death-throes, I have seen them by scores blown into the air by
+bursting shells and their bodies torn asunder; believe me, the
+witnessing was as merrymaking and laughter and song to me in
+comparison with the way the sight of that poor child affected me.
+
+The whipping began. The whipping of the first boy was as play compared
+with this one. In no time the blood was running down his thin little
+legs. He danced and squirmed and doubled up till it seemed almost that
+he was some grotesque marionette operated by strings. I say "seemed,"
+for his screaming gave the lie to the seeming and stamped it with
+reality. His shrieks were shrill and piercing; within them no hoarse
+notes, but only the thin sexlessness of the voice of a child. The time
+came when the boy could stand it no more. Reason fled, and he tried to
+run away. But now the man followed up, curbing his flight, herding him
+with blows back always into the open space.
+
+Then came interruption. I heard a wild smothered cry. The woman who
+sat in the wagon seat had got out and was running to interfere. She
+sprang between the man and boy.
+
+"You want some, eh?" said he with the whip. "All right, then."
+
+He swung the whip upon her. Her skirts were long, so he did not try
+for her legs. He drove the lash for her face, which she shielded as
+best she could with her hands and forearms, drooping her head forward
+between her lean shoulders, and on the lean shoulders and arms
+receiving the blows. Heroic mother! She knew just what she was doing.
+The boy, still shrieking, was making his get-away to the wagons.
+
+And all the while the four men lay beside me and watched and made no
+move. Nor did I move, and without shame I say it; though my reason was
+compelled to struggle hard against my natural impulse to rise up and
+interfere. I knew life. Of what use to the woman, or to me, would be
+my being beaten to death by five men there on the bank of the
+Susquehanna? I once saw a man hanged, and though my whole soul cried
+protest, my mouth cried not. Had it cried, I should most likely have
+had my skull crushed by the butt of a revolver, for it was the law
+that the man should hang. And here, in this gypsy group, it was the
+law that the woman should be whipped.
+
+Even so, the reason in both cases that I did not interfere was not
+that it was the law, but that the law was stronger than I. Had it not
+been for those four men beside me in the grass, right gladly would I
+have waded into the man with the whip. And, barring the accident of
+the landing on me with a knife or a club in the hands of some of the
+various women of the camp, I am confident that I should have beaten
+him into a mess. But the four men _were_ beside me in the grass. They
+made their law stronger than I.
+
+Oh, believe me, I did my own suffering. I had seen women beaten
+before, often, but never had I seen such a beating as this. Her dress
+across the shoulders was cut into shreds. One blow that had passed her
+guard, had raised a bloody welt from cheek to chin. Not one blow, nor
+two, not one dozen, nor two dozen, but endlessly, infinitely, that
+whip-lash smote and curled about her. The sweat poured from me, and I
+breathed hard, clutching at the grass with my hands until I strained
+it out by the roots. And all the time my reason kept whispering,
+"Fool! Fool!" That welt on the face nearly did for me. I started to
+rise to my feet; but the hand of the man next to me went out to my
+shoulder and pressed me down.
+
+"Easy, pardner, easy," he warned me in a low voice. I looked at him.
+His eyes met mine unwaveringly. He was a large man, broad-shouldered
+and heavy-muscled; and his face was lazy, phlegmatic, slothful, withal
+kindly, yet without passion, and quite soulless--a dim soul,
+unmalicious, unmoral, bovine, and stubborn. Just an animal he was,
+with no more than a faint flickering of intelligence, a good-natured
+brute with the strength and mental caliber of a gorilla. His hand
+pressed heavily upon me, and I knew the weight of the muscles behind.
+I looked at the other brutes, two of them unperturbed and incurious,
+and one of them that gloated over the spectacle; and my reason came
+back to me, my muscles relaxed, and I sank down in the grass.
+
+My mind went back to the two maiden ladies with whom I had had
+breakfast that morning. Less than two miles, as the crow flies,
+separated them from this scene. Here, in the windless day, under a
+beneficent sun, was a sister of theirs being beaten by a brother of
+mine. Here was a page of life they could never see--and better so,
+though for lack of seeing they would never be able to understand their
+sisterhood, nor themselves, nor know the clay of which they were made.
+For it is not given to woman to live in sweet-scented, narrow rooms
+and at the same time be a little sister to all the world.
+
+The whipping was finished, and the woman, no longer screaming, went
+back to her seat in the wagon. Nor did the other women come to
+her--just then. They were afraid. But they came afterward, when a
+decent interval had elapsed. The man put the whip away and rejoined
+us, flinging himself down on the other side of me. He was breathing
+hard from his exertions. He wiped the sweat from his eyes on his
+coat-sleeve, and looked challengingly at me. I returned his look
+carelessly; what he had done was no concern of mine. I did not go away
+abruptly. I lay there half an hour longer, which, under the
+circumstances, was tact and etiquette. I rolled cigarettes from
+tobacco I borrowed from them, and when I slipped down the bank to the
+railroad, I was equipped with the necessary information for catching
+the next freight bound south.
+
+Well, and what of it? It was a page out of life, that's all; and there
+are many pages worse, far worse, that I have seen. I have sometimes
+held forth (facetiously, so my listeners believed) that the chief
+distinguishing trait between man and the other animals is that man is
+the only animal that maltreats the females of his kind. It is
+something of which no wolf nor cowardly coyote is ever guilty. It is
+something that even the dog, degenerated by domestication, will not
+do. The dog still retains the wild instinct in this matter, while man
+has lost most of his wild instincts--at least, most of the good ones.
+
+Worse pages of life than what I have described? Read the reports on
+child labor in the United States,--east, west, north, and south, it
+doesn't matter where,--and know that all of us, profit-mongers that we
+are, are typesetters and printers of worse pages of life than that
+mere page of wife-beating on the Susquehanna.
+
+I went down the grade a hundred yards to where the footing beside the
+track was good. Here I could catch my freight as it pulled slowly up
+the hill, and here I found half a dozen hoboes waiting for the same
+purpose. Several were playing seven-up with an old pack of cards. I
+took a hand. A coon began to shuffle the deck. He was fat, and young,
+and moon-faced. He beamed with good-nature. It fairly oozed from him.
+As he dealt the first card to me, he paused and said:--
+
+"Say, Bo, ain't I done seen you befo'?"
+
+"You sure have," I answered. "An' you didn't have those same duds on,
+either."
+
+He was puzzled.
+
+"D'ye remember Buffalo?" I queried.
+
+Then he knew me, and with laughter and ejaculation hailed me as a
+comrade; for at Buffalo his clothes had been striped while he did his
+bit of time in the Erie County Penitentiary. For that matter, my
+clothes had been likewise striped, for I had been doing my bit of
+time, too.
+
+The game proceeded, and I learned the stake for which we played. Down
+the bank toward the river descended a steep and narrow path that led
+to a spring some twenty-five feet beneath. We played on the edge of
+the bank. The man who was "stuck" had to take a small condensed-milk
+can, and with it carry water to the winners.
+
+The first game was played and the coon was stuck. He took the small
+milk-tin and climbed down the bank, while we sat above and guyed him.
+We drank like fish. Four round trips he had to make for me alone, and
+the others were equally lavish with their thirst. The path was very
+steep, and sometimes the coon slipped when part way up, spilled the
+water, and had to go back for more. But he didn't get angry. He
+laughed as heartily as any of us; that was why he slipped so often.
+Also, he assured us of the prodigious quantities of water he would
+drink when some one else got stuck.
+
+When our thirst was quenched, another game was started. Again the coon
+was stuck, and again we drank our fill. A third game and a fourth
+ended the same way, and each time that moon-faced darky nearly died
+with delight at appreciation of the fate that Chance was dealing out
+to him. And we nearly died with him, what of our delight. We laughed
+like careless children, or gods, there on the edge of the bank. I know
+that I laughed till it seemed the top of my head would come off, and
+I drank from the milk-tin till I was nigh waterlogged. Serious
+discussion arose as to whether we could successfully board the freight
+when it pulled up the grade, what of the weight of water secreted on
+our persons. This particular phase of the situation just about
+finished the coon. He had to break off from water-carrying for at
+least five minutes while he lay down and rolled with laughter.
+
+The lengthening shadows stretched farther and farther across the
+river, and the soft, cool twilight came on, and ever we drank water,
+and ever our ebony cup-bearer brought more and more. Forgotten was the
+beaten woman of the hour before. That was a page read and turned over;
+I was busy now with this new page, and when the engine whistled on the
+grade, this page would be finished and another begun; and so the book
+of life goes on, page after page and pages without end--when one is
+young.
+
+And then we played a game in which the coon failed to be stuck. The
+victim was a lean and dyspeptic-looking hobo, the one who had laughed
+least of all of us. We said we didn't want any water--which was the
+truth. Not the wealth of Ormuz and of Ind, nor the pressure of a
+pneumatic ram, could have forced another drop into my saturated
+carcass. The coon looked disappointed, then rose to the occasion and
+guessed he'd have some. He meant it, too. He had some, and then some,
+and then some. Ever the melancholy hobo climbed down and up the steep
+bank, and ever the coon called for more. He drank more water than all
+the rest of us put together. The twilight deepened into night, the
+stars came out, and he still drank on. I do believe that if the
+whistle of the freight hadn't sounded, he'd be there yet, swilling
+water and revenge while the melancholy hobo toiled down and up.
+
+But the whistle sounded. The page was done. We sprang to our feet and
+strung out alongside the track. There she came, coughing and
+spluttering up the grade, the headlight turning night into day and
+silhouetting us in sharp relief. The engine passed us, and we were all
+running with the train, some boarding on the side-ladders, others
+"springing" the side-doors of empty box-cars and climbing in. I caught
+a flat-car loaded with mixed lumber and crawled away into a
+comfortable nook. I lay on my back with a newspaper under my head for
+a pillow. Above me the stars were winking and wheeling in squadrons
+back and forth as the train rounded the curves, and watching them I
+fell asleep. The day was done--one day of all my days. To-morrow would
+be another day, and I was young.
+
+
+
+
+"PINCHED"
+
+
+I rode into Niagara Falls in a "side-door Pullman," or, in common
+parlance, a box-car. A flat-car, by the way, is known amongst the
+fraternity as a "gondola," with the second syllable emphasized and
+pronounced long. But to return. I arrived in the afternoon and headed
+straight from the freight train to the falls. Once my eyes were filled
+with that wonder-vision of down-rushing water, I was lost. I could not
+tear myself away long enough to "batter" the "privates" (domiciles)
+for my supper. Even a "set-down" could not have lured me away. Night
+came on, a beautiful night of moonlight, and I lingered by the falls
+until after eleven. Then it was up to me to hunt for a place to "kip."
+
+"Kip," "doss," "flop," "pound your ear," all mean the same thing;
+namely, to sleep. Somehow, I had a "hunch" that Niagara Falls was a
+"bad" town for hoboes, and I headed out into the country. I climbed a
+fence and "flopped" in a field. John Law would never find me there, I
+flattered myself. I lay on my back in the grass and slept like a babe.
+It was so balmy warm that I woke up not once all night. But with the
+first gray daylight my eyes opened, and I remembered the wonderful
+falls. I climbed the fence and started down the road to have another
+look at them. It was early--not more than five o'clock--and not until
+eight o'clock could I begin to batter for my breakfast. I could spend
+at least three hours by the river. Alas! I was fated never to see the
+river nor the falls again.
+
+The town was asleep when I entered it. As I came along the quiet
+street, I saw three men coming toward me along the sidewalk. They were
+walking abreast. Hoboes, I decided, like myself, who had got up early.
+In this surmise I was not quite correct. I was only sixty-six and
+two-thirds per cent correct. The men on each side were hoboes all
+right, but the man in the middle wasn't. I directed my steps to the
+edge of the sidewalk in order to let the trio go by. But it didn't go
+by. At some word from the man in the centre, all three halted, and he
+of the centre addressed me.
+
+I piped the lay on the instant. He was a "fly-cop" and the two hoboes
+were his prisoners. John Law was up and out after the early worm. I
+was a worm. Had I been richer by the experiences that were to befall
+me in the next several months, I should have turned and run like the
+very devil. He might have shot at me, but he'd have had to hit me to
+get me. He'd have never run after me, for two hoboes in the hand are
+worth more than one on the get-away. But like a dummy I stood still
+when he halted me. Our conversation was brief.
+
+"What hotel are you stopping at?" he queried.
+
+He had me. I wasn't stopping at any hotel, and, since I did not know
+the name of a hotel in the place, I could not claim residence in any
+of them. Also, I was up too early in the morning. Everything was
+against me.
+
+"I just arrived," I said.
+
+"Well, you turn around and walk in front of me, and not too far in
+front. There's somebody wants to see you."
+
+I was "pinched." I knew who wanted to see me. With that "fly-cop" and
+the two hoboes at my heels, and under the direction of the former, I
+led the way to the city jail. There we were searched and our names
+registered. I have forgotten, now, under which name I was registered.
+I gave the name of Jack Drake, but when they searched me, they found
+letters addressed to Jack London. This caused trouble and required
+explanation, all of which has passed from my mind, and to this day I
+do not know whether I was pinched as Jack Drake or Jack London. But
+one or the other, it should be there to-day in the prison register of
+Niagara Falls. Reference can bring it to light. The time was somewhere
+in the latter part of June, 1894. It was only a few days after my
+arrest that the great railroad strike began.
+
+From the office we were led to the "Hobo" and locked in. The "Hobo" is
+that part of a prison where the minor offenders are confined together
+in a large iron cage. Since hoboes constitute the principal division
+of the minor offenders, the aforesaid iron cage is called the Hobo.
+Here we met several hoboes who had already been pinched that morning,
+and every little while the door was unlocked and two or three more
+were thrust in on us. At last, when we totalled sixteen, we were led
+upstairs into the court-room. And now I shall faithfully describe
+what took place in that court-room, for know that my patriotic
+American citizenship there received a shock from which it has never
+fully recovered.
+
+In the court-room were the sixteen prisoners, the judge, and two
+bailiffs. The judge seemed to act as his own clerk. There were no
+witnesses. There were no citizens of Niagara Falls present to look on
+and see how justice was administered in their community. The judge
+glanced at the list of cases before him and called out a name. A hobo
+stood up. The judge glanced at a bailiff. "Vagrancy, your Honor," said
+the bailiff. "Thirty days," said his Honor. The hobo sat down, and the
+judge was calling another name and another hobo was rising to his
+feet.
+
+The trial of that hobo had taken just about fifteen seconds. The trial
+of the next hobo came off with equal celerity. The bailiff said,
+"Vagrancy, your Honor," and his Honor said, "Thirty days." Thus it
+went like clockwork, fifteen seconds to a hobo--and thirty days.
+
+They are poor dumb cattle, I thought to myself. But wait till my turn
+comes; I'll give his Honor a "spiel." Part way along in the
+performance, his Honor, moved by some whim, gave one of us an
+opportunity to speak. As chance would have it, this man was not a
+genuine hobo. He bore none of the ear-marks of the professional
+"stiff." Had he approached the rest of us, while waiting at a
+water-tank for a freight, we should have unhesitatingly classified him as
+a "gay-cat." Gay-cat is the synonym for tenderfoot in Hobo Land. This
+gay-cat was well along in years--somewhere around forty-five, I should
+judge. His shoulders were humped a trifle, and his face was seamed by
+weather-beat.
+
+For many years, according to his story, he had driven team for some
+firm in (if I remember rightly) Lockport, New York. The firm had
+ceased to prosper, and finally, in the hard times of 1893, had gone
+out of business. He had been kept on to the last, though toward the
+last his work had been very irregular. He went on and explained at
+length his difficulties in getting work (when so many were out of
+work) during the succeeding months. In the end, deciding that he would
+find better opportunities for work on the Lakes, he had started for
+Buffalo. Of course he was "broke," and there he was. That was all.
+
+"Thirty days," said his Honor, and called another hobo's name.
+
+Said hobo got up. "Vagrancy, your Honor," said the bailiff, and his
+Honor said, "Thirty days."
+
+And so it went, fifteen seconds and thirty days to each hobo. The
+machine of justice was grinding smoothly. Most likely, considering how
+early it was in the morning, his Honor had not yet had his breakfast
+and was in a hurry.
+
+But my American blood was up. Behind me were the many generations of
+my American ancestry. One of the kinds of liberty those ancestors of
+mine had fought and died for was the right of trial by jury. This was
+my heritage, stained sacred by their blood, and it devolved upon me to
+stand up for it. All right, I threatened to myself; just wait till he
+gets to me.
+
+He got to me. My name, whatever it was, was called, and I stood up.
+The bailiff said, "Vagrancy, your Honor," and I began to talk. But the
+judge began talking at the same time, and he said, "Thirty days." I
+started to protest, but at that moment his Honor was calling the name
+of the next hobo on the list. His Honor paused long enough to say to
+me, "Shut up!" The bailiff forced me to sit down. And the next moment
+that next hobo had received thirty days and the succeeding hobo was
+just in process of getting his.
+
+When we had all been disposed of, thirty days to each stiff, his
+Honor, just as he was about to dismiss us, suddenly turned to the
+teamster from Lockport--the one man he had allowed to talk.
+
+"Why did you quit your job?" his Honor asked.
+
+Now the teamster had already explained how his job had quit him, and
+the question took him aback.
+
+"Your Honor," he began confusedly, "isn't that a funny question to
+ask?"
+
+"Thirty days more for quitting your job," said his Honor, and the
+court was closed. That was the outcome. The teamster got sixty days
+all together, while the rest of us got thirty days.
+
+We were taken down below, locked up, and given breakfast. It was a
+pretty good breakfast, as prison breakfasts go, and it was the best I
+was to get for a month to come.
+
+As for me, I was dazed. Here was I, under sentence, after a farce of a
+trial wherein I was denied not only my right of trial by jury, but my
+right to plead guilty or not guilty. Another thing my fathers had
+fought for flashed through my brain--habeas corpus. I'd show them. But
+when I asked for a lawyer, I was laughed at. Habeas corpus was all
+right, but of what good was it to me when I could communicate with no
+one outside the jail? But I'd show them. They couldn't keep me in jail
+forever. Just wait till I got out, that was all. I'd make them sit up.
+I knew something about the law and my own rights, and I'd expose their
+maladministration of justice. Visions of damage suits and sensational
+newspaper headlines were dancing before my eyes when the jailers came
+in and began hustling us out into the main office.
+
+A policeman snapped a handcuff on my right wrist. (Ah, ha, thought I,
+a new indignity. Just wait till I get out.) On the left wrist of a
+negro he snapped the other handcuff of that pair. He was a very tall
+negro, well past six feet--so tall was he that when we stood side by
+side his hand lifted mine up a trifle in the manacles. Also, he was
+the happiest and the raggedest negro I have ever seen.
+
+We were all handcuffed similarly, in pairs. This accomplished, a
+bright nickel-steel chain was brought forth, run down through the
+links of all the handcuffs, and locked at front and rear of the
+double-line. We were now a chain-gang. The command to march was given,
+and out we went upon the street, guarded by two officers. The tall
+negro and I had the place of honor. We led the procession.
+
+After the tomb-like gloom of the jail, the outside sunshine was
+dazzling. I had never known it to be so sweet as now, a prisoner with
+clanking chains, I knew that I was soon to see the last of it for
+thirty days. Down through the streets of Niagara Falls we marched to
+the railroad station, stared at by curious passers-by, and especially
+by a group of tourists on the veranda of a hotel that we marched past.
+
+There was plenty of slack in the chain, and with much rattling and
+clanking we sat down, two and two, in the seats of the smoking-car.
+Afire with indignation as I was at the outrage that had been
+perpetrated on me and my forefathers, I was nevertheless too
+prosaically practical to lose my head over it. This was all new to me.
+Thirty days of mystery were before me, and I looked about me to find
+somebody who knew the ropes. For I had already learned that I was not
+bound for a petty jail with a hundred or so prisoners in it, but for a
+full-grown penitentiary with a couple of thousand prisoners in it,
+doing anywhere from ten days to ten years.
+
+In the seat behind me, attached to the chain by his wrist, was a
+squat, heavily-built, powerfully-muscled man. He was somewhere between
+thirty-five and forty years of age. I sized him up. In the corners of
+his eyes I saw humor and laughter and kindliness. As for the rest of
+him, he was a brute-beast, wholly unmoral, and with all the passion
+and turgid violence of the brute-beast. What saved him, what made him
+possible for me, were those corners of his eyes--the humor and
+laughter and kindliness of the beast when unaroused.
+
+He was my "meat." I "cottoned" to him. While my cuff-mate, the tall
+negro, mourned with chucklings and laughter over some laundry he was
+sure to lose through his arrest, and while the train rolled on toward
+Buffalo, I talked with the man in the seat behind me. He had an empty
+pipe. I filled it for him with my precious tobacco--enough in a single
+filling to make a dozen cigarettes. Nay, the more we talked the surer
+I was that he was my meat, and I divided all my tobacco with him.
+
+Now it happens that I am a fluid sort of an organism, with sufficient
+kinship with life to fit myself in 'most anywhere. I laid myself out
+to fit in with that man, though little did I dream to what
+extraordinary good purpose I was succeeding. He had never been in the
+particular penitentiary to which we were going, but he had done
+"one-," "two-," and "five-spots" in various other penitentiaries (a
+"spot" is a year), and he was filled with wisdom. We became pretty
+chummy, and my heart bounded when he cautioned me to follow his lead.
+He called me "Jack," and I called him "Jack."
+
+The train stopped at a station about five miles from Buffalo, and we,
+the chain-gang, got off. I do not remember the name of this station,
+but I am confident that it is some one of the following: Rocklyn,
+Rockwood, Black Rock, Rockcastle, or Newcastle. But whatever the name
+of the place, we were walked a short distance and then put on a
+street-car. It was an old-fashioned car, with a seat, running the full
+length, on each side. All the passengers who sat on one side were
+asked to move over to the other side, and we, with a great clanking of
+chain, took their places. We sat facing them, I remember, and I
+remember, too, the awed expression on the faces of the women, who took
+us, undoubtedly, for convicted murderers and bank-robbers. I tried to
+look my fiercest, but that cuff-mate of mine, the too happy negro,
+insisted on rolling his eyes, laughing, and reiterating, "O Lawdy!
+Lawdy!"
+
+We left the car, walked some more, and were led into the office of the
+Erie County Penitentiary. Here we were to register, and on that
+register one or the other of my names will be found. Also, we were
+informed that we must leave in the office all our valuables: money,
+tobacco, matches, pocketknives, and so forth.
+
+My new pal shook his head at me.
+
+"If you do not leave your things here, they will be confiscated
+inside," warned the official.
+
+Still my pal shook his head. He was busy with his hands, hiding his
+movements behind the other fellows. (Our handcuffs had been removed.)
+I watched him, and followed suit, wrapping up in a bundle in my
+handkerchief all the things I wanted to take in. These bundles the two
+of us thrust into our shirts. I noticed that our fellow-prisoners,
+with the exception of one or two who had watches, did not turn over
+their belongings to the man in the office. They were determined to
+smuggle them in somehow, trusting to luck; but they were not so wise
+as my pal, for they did not wrap their things in bundles.
+
+Our erstwhile guardians gathered up the handcuffs and chain and
+departed for Niagara Falls, while we, under new guardians, were led
+away into the prison. While we were in the office, our number had been
+added to by other squads of newly arrived prisoners, so that we were
+now a procession forty or fifty strong.
+
+Know, ye unimprisoned, that traffic is as restricted inside a large
+prison as commerce was in the Middle Ages. Once inside a penitentiary,
+one cannot move about at will. Every few steps are encountered great
+steel doors or gates which are always kept locked. We were bound for
+the barber-shop, but we encountered delays in the unlocking of doors
+for us. We were thus delayed in the first "hall" we entered. A "hall"
+is not a corridor. Imagine an oblong cube, built out of bricks and
+rising six stories high, each story a row of cells, say fifty cells in
+a row--in short, imagine a cube of colossal honeycomb. Place this cube
+on the ground and enclose it in a building with a roof overhead and
+walls all around. Such a cube and encompassing building constitute a
+"hall" in the Erie County Penitentiary. Also, to complete the picture,
+see a narrow gallery, with steel railing, running the full length of
+each tier of cells and at the ends of the oblong cube see all these
+galleries, from both sides, connected by a fire-escape system of
+narrow steel stairways.
+
+We were halted in the first hall, waiting for some guard to unlock a
+door. Here and there, moving about, were convicts, with close-cropped
+heads and shaven faces, and garbed in prison stripes. One such convict
+I noticed above us on the gallery of the third tier of cells. He was
+standing on the gallery and leaning forward, his arms resting on the
+railing, himself apparently oblivious of our presence. He seemed
+staring into vacancy. My pal made a slight hissing noise. The convict
+glanced down. Motioned signals passed between them. Then through the
+air soared the handkerchief bundle of my pal. The convict caught it,
+and like a flash it was out of sight in his shirt and he was staring
+into vacancy. My pal had told me to follow his lead. I watched my
+chance when the guard's back was turned, and my bundle followed the
+other one into the shirt of the convict.
+
+A minute later the door was unlocked, and we filed into the
+barber-shop. Here were more men in convict stripes. They were the
+prison barbers. Also, there were bath-tubs, hot water, soap, and
+scrubbing-brushes. We were ordered to strip and bathe, each man to
+scrub his neighbor's back--a needless precaution, this compulsory
+bath, for the prison swarmed with vermin. After the bath, we were each
+given a canvas clothes-bag.
+
+"Put all your clothes in the bags," said the guard. "It's no good
+trying to smuggle anything in. You've got to line up naked for
+inspection. Men for thirty days or less keep their shoes and
+suspenders. Men for more than thirty days keep nothing."
+
+This announcement was received with consternation. How could naked men
+smuggle anything past an inspection? Only my pal and I were safe. But
+it was right here that the convict barbers got in their work. They
+passed among the poor newcomers, kindly volunteering to take charge of
+their precious little belongings, and promising to return them later
+in the day. Those barbers were philanthropists--to hear them talk. As
+in the case of Fra Lippo Lippi, never was there such prompt
+disemburdening. Matches, tobacco, rice-paper, pipes, knives, money,
+everything, flowed into the capacious shirts of the barbers. They
+fairly bulged with the spoil, and the guards made believe not to see.
+To cut the story short, nothing was ever returned. The barbers never
+had any intention of returning what they had taken. They considered it
+legitimately theirs. It was the barber-shop graft. There were many
+grafts in that prison, as I was to learn; and I, too, was destined to
+become a grafter--thanks to my new pal.
+
+There were several chairs, and the barbers worked rapidly. The
+quickest shaves and hair-cuts I have ever seen were given in that
+shop. The men lathered themselves, and the barbers shaved them at the
+rate of a minute to a man. A hair-cut took a trifle longer. In three
+minutes the down of eighteen was scraped from my face, and my head was
+as smooth as a billiard-ball just sprouting a crop of bristles.
+Beards, mustaches, like our clothes and everything, came off. Take my
+word for it, we were a villainous-looking gang when they got through
+with us. I had not realized before how really altogether bad we were.
+
+Then came the line-up, forty or fifty of us, naked as Kipling's heroes
+who stormed Lungtungpen. To search us was easy. There were only our
+shoes and ourselves. Two or three rash spirits, who had doubted the
+barbers, had the goods found on them--which goods, namely, tobacco,
+pipes, matches, and small change, were quickly confiscated. This over,
+our new clothes were brought to us--stout prison shirts, and coats and
+trousers conspicuously striped. I had always lingered under the
+impression that the convict stripes were put on a man only after he
+had been convicted of a felony. I lingered no longer, but put on the
+insignia of shame and got my first taste of marching the lock-step.
+
+In single file, close together, each man's hands on the shoulders of
+the man in front, we marched on into another large hall. Here we were
+ranged up against the wall in a long line and ordered to strip our
+left arms. A youth, a medical student who was getting in his practice
+on cattle such as we, came down the line. He vaccinated just about
+four times as rapidly as the barbers shaved. With a final caution to
+avoid rubbing our arms against anything, and to let the blood dry so
+as to form the scab, we were led away to our cells. Here my pal and I
+parted, but not before he had time to whisper to me, "Suck it out."
+
+As soon as I was locked in, I sucked my arm clean. And afterward I saw
+men who had not sucked and who had horrible holes in their arms into
+which I could have thrust my fist. It was their own fault. They could
+have sucked.
+
+In my cell was another man. We were to be cell-mates. He was a young,
+manly fellow, not talkative, but very capable, indeed as splendid a
+fellow as one could meet with in a day's ride, and this in spite of
+the fact that he had just recently finished a two-year term in some
+Ohio penitentiary.
+
+Hardly had we been in our cell half an hour, when a convict sauntered
+down the gallery and looked in. It was my pal. He had the freedom of
+the hall, he explained. He was unlocked at six in the morning and not
+locked up again till nine at night. He was in with the "push" in that
+hall, and had been promptly appointed a trusty of the kind technically
+known as "hall-man." The man who had appointed him was also a prisoner
+and a trusty, and was known as "First Hall-man." There were thirteen
+hall-men in that hall. Ten of them had charge each of a gallery of
+cells, and over them were the First, Second, and Third Hall-men.
+
+We newcomers were to stay in our cells for the rest of the day, my pal
+informed me, so that the vaccine would have a chance to take. Then
+next morning we would be put to hard labor in the prison-yard.
+
+"But I'll get you out of the work as soon as I can," he promised.
+"I'll get one of the hall-men fired and have you put in his place."
+
+He put his hand into his shirt, drew out the handkerchief containing
+my precious belongings, passed it in to me through the bars, and went
+on down the gallery.
+
+I opened the bundle. Everything was there. Not even a match was
+missing. I shared the makings of a cigarette with my cell-mate. When I
+started to strike a match for a light, he stopped me. A flimsy, dirty
+comforter lay in each of our bunks for bedding. He tore off a narrow
+strip of the thin cloth and rolled it tightly and telescopically into
+a long and slender cylinder. This he lighted with a precious match.
+The cylinder of tight-rolled cotton cloth did not flame. On the end a
+coal of fire slowly smouldered. It would last for hours, and my
+cell-mate called it a "punk." And when it burned short, all that was
+necessary was to make a new punk, put the end of it against the old,
+blow on them, and so transfer the glowing coal. Why, we could have
+given Prometheus pointers on the conserving of fire.
+
+At twelve o'clock dinner was served. At the bottom of our cage door
+was a small opening like the entrance of a runway in a chicken-yard.
+Through this were thrust two hunks of dry bread and two pannikins of
+"soup." A portion of soup consisted of about a quart of hot water with
+floating on its surface a lonely drop of grease. Also, there was some
+salt in that water.
+
+We drank the soup, but we did not eat the bread. Not that we were not
+hungry, and not that the bread was uneatable. It was fairly good
+bread. But we had reasons. My cell-mate had discovered that our cell
+was alive with bed-bugs. In all the cracks and interstices between the
+bricks where the mortar had fallen out flourished great colonies. The
+natives even ventured out in the broad daylight and swarmed over the
+walls and ceiling by hundreds. My cell-mate was wise in the ways of
+the beasts. Like Childe Roland, dauntless the slug-horn to his lips he
+bore. Never was there such a battle. It lasted for hours. It was
+shambles. And when the last survivors fled to their brick-and-mortar
+fastnesses, our work was only half done. We chewed mouthfuls of our
+bread until it was reduced to the consistency of putty. When a fleeing
+belligerent escaped into a crevice between the bricks, we promptly
+walled him in with a daub of the chewed bread. We toiled on until the
+light grew dim and until every hole, nook, and cranny was closed. I
+shudder to think of the tragedies of starvation and cannibalism that
+must have ensued behind those bread-plastered ramparts.
+
+We threw ourselves on our bunks, tired out and hungry, to wait for
+supper. It was a good day's work well done. In the weeks to come we at
+least should not suffer from the hosts of vermin. We had foregone our
+dinner, saved our hides at the expense of our stomachs; but we were
+content. Alas for the futility of human effort! Scarcely was our long
+task completed when a guard unlocked our door. A redistribution of
+prisoners was being made, and we were taken to another cell and locked
+in two galleries higher up.
+
+Early next morning our cells were unlocked, and down in the hall the
+several hundred prisoners of us formed the lock-step and marched out
+into the prison-yard to go to work. The Erie Canal runs right by the
+back yard of the Erie County Penitentiary. Our task was to unload
+canal-boats, carrying huge stay-bolts on our shoulders, like railroad
+ties, into the prison. As I worked I sized up the situation and
+studied the chances for a get-away. There wasn't the ghost of a show.
+Along the tops of the walls marched guards armed with repeating
+rifles, and I was told, furthermore, that there were machine-guns in
+the sentry-towers.
+
+I did not worry. Thirty days were not so long. I'd stay those thirty
+days, and add to the store of material I intended to use, when I got
+out, against the harpies of justice. I'd show what an American boy
+could do when his rights and privileges had been trampled on the way
+mine had. I had been denied my right of trial by jury; I had been
+denied my right to plead guilty or not guilty; I had been denied a
+trial even (for I couldn't consider that what I had received at
+Niagara Falls was a trial); I had not been allowed to communicate with
+a lawyer nor any one, and hence had been denied my right of suing for
+a writ of habeas corpus; my face had been shaved, my hair cropped
+close, convict stripes had been put upon my body; I was forced to toil
+hard on a diet of bread and water and to march the shameful lock-step
+with armed guards over me--and all for what? What had I done? What
+crime had I committed against the good citizens of Niagara Falls that
+all this vengeance should be wreaked upon me? I had not even violated
+their "sleeping-out" ordinance. I had slept outside their
+jurisdiction, in the country, that night. I had not even begged for a
+meal, or battered for a "light piece" on their streets. All that I had
+done was to walk along their sidewalk and gaze at their picayune
+waterfall. And what crime was there in that? Technically I was guilty
+of no misdemeanor. All right, I'd show them when I got out.
+
+The next day I talked with a guard. I wanted to send for a lawyer. The
+guard laughed at me. So did the other guards. I really was
+_incommunicado_ so far as the outside world was concerned. I tried to
+write a letter out, but I learned that all letters were read, and
+censured or confiscated, by the prison authorities, and that
+"short-timers" were not allowed to write letters anyway. A little
+later I tried smuggling letters out by men who were released, but I
+learned that they were searched and the letters found and destroyed.
+Never mind. It all helped to make it a blacker case when I did get
+out.
+
+But as the prison days went by (which I shall describe in the next
+chapter), I "learned a few." I heard tales of the police, and
+police-courts, and lawyers, that were unbelievable and monstrous. Men,
+prisoners, told me of personal experiences with the police of great
+cities that were awful. And more awful were the hearsay tales they
+told me concerning men who had died at the hands of the police and who
+therefore could not testify for themselves. Years afterward, in the
+report of the Lexow Committee, I was to read tales true and more awful
+than those told to me. But in the meantime, during the first days of
+my imprisonment, I scoffed at what I heard.
+
+As the days went by, however, I began to grow convinced. I saw with my
+own eyes, there in that prison, things unbelievable and monstrous. And
+the more convinced I became, the profounder grew the respect in me for
+the sleuth-hounds of the law and for the whole institution of criminal
+justice.
+
+My indignation ebbed away, and into my being rushed the tides of fear.
+I saw at last, clear-eyed, what I was up against. I grew meek and
+lowly. Each day I resolved more emphatically to make no rumpus when I
+got out. All I asked, when I got out, was a chance to fade away from
+the landscape. And that was just what I did do when I was released. I
+kept my tongue between my teeth, walked softly, and sneaked for
+Pennsylvania, a wiser and a humbler man.
+
+
+
+
+THE PEN
+
+
+For two days I toiled in the prison-yard. It was heavy work, and, in
+spite of the fact that I malingered at every opportunity, I was played
+out. This was because of the food. No man could work hard on such
+food. Bread and water, that was all that was given us. Once a week we
+were supposed to get meat; but this meat did not always go around, and
+since all nutriment had first been boiled out of it in the making of
+soup, it didn't matter whether one got a taste of it once a week or
+not.
+
+Furthermore, there was one vital defect in the bread-and-water diet.
+While we got plenty of water, we did not get enough of the bread. A
+ration of bread was about the size of one's two fists, and three
+rations a day were given to each prisoner. There was one good thing, I
+must say, about the water--it was hot. In the morning it was called
+"coffee," at noon it was dignified as "soup," and at night it
+masqueraded as "tea." But it was the same old water all the time. The
+prisoners called it "water bewitched." In the morning it was black
+water, the color being due to boiling it with burnt bread-crusts. At
+noon it was served minus the color, with salt and a drop of grease
+added. At night it was served with a purplish-auburn hue that defied
+all speculation; it was darn poor tea, but it was dandy hot water.
+
+We were a hungry lot in the Erie County Pen. Only the "long-timers"
+knew what it was to have enough to eat. The reason for this was that
+they would have died after a time on the fare we "short-timers"
+received. I know that the long-timers got more substantial grub,
+because there was a whole row of them on the ground floor in our hall,
+and when I was a trusty, I used to steal from their grub while serving
+them. Man cannot live on bread alone and not enough of it.
+
+My pal delivered the goods. After two days of work in the yard I was
+taken out of my cell and made a trusty, a "hall-man." At morning and
+night we served the bread to the prisoners in their cells; but at
+twelve o'clock a different method was used. The convicts marched in
+from work in a long line. As they entered the door of our hall, they
+broke the lock-step and took their hands down from the shoulders of
+their line-mates. Just inside the door were piled trays of bread, and
+here also stood the First Hall-man and two ordinary hall-men. I was
+one of the two. Our task was to hold the trays of bread as the line of
+convicts filed past. As soon as the tray, say, that I was holding was
+emptied, the other hall-man took my place with a full tray. And when
+his was emptied, I took his place with a full tray. Thus the line
+tramped steadily by, each man reaching with his right hand and taking
+one ration of bread from the extended tray.
+
+The task of the First Hall-man was different. He used a club. He stood
+beside the tray and watched. The hungry wretches could never get over
+the delusion that sometime they could manage to get two rations of
+bread out of the tray. But in my experience that sometime never came.
+The club of the First Hall-man had a way of flashing out--quick as the
+stroke of a tiger's claw--to the hand that dared ambitiously. The
+First Hall-man was a good judge of distance, and he had smashed so
+many hands with that club that he had become infallible. He never
+missed, and he usually punished the offending convict by taking his
+one ration away from him and sending him to his cell to make his meal
+off of hot water.
+
+And at times, while all these men lay hungry in their cells, I have
+seen a hundred or so extra rations of bread hidden away in the cells
+of the hall-men. It would seem absurd, our retaining this bread. But
+it was one of our grafts. We were economic masters inside our hall,
+turning the trick in ways quite similar to the economic masters of
+civilization. We controlled the food-supply of the population, and,
+just like our brother bandits outside, we made the people pay through
+the nose for it. We peddled the bread. Once a week, the men who worked
+in the yard received a five-cent plug of chewing tobacco. This chewing
+tobacco was the coin of the realm. Two or three rations of bread for a
+plug was the way we exchanged, and they traded, not because they loved
+tobacco less, but because they loved bread more. Oh, I know, it was
+like taking candy from a baby, but what would you? We had to live. And
+certainly there should be some reward for initiative and enterprise.
+Besides, we but patterned ourselves after our betters outside the
+walls, who, on a larger scale, and under the respectable disguise of
+merchants, bankers, and captains of industry, did precisely what we
+were doing. What awful things would have happened to those poor
+wretches if it hadn't been for us, I can't imagine. Heaven knows we
+put bread into circulation in the Erie County Pen. Ay, and we
+encouraged frugality and thrift ... in the poor devils who forewent
+their tobacco. And then there was our example. In the breast of every
+convict there we implanted the ambition to become even as we and run a
+graft. Saviours of society--I guess yes.
+
+Here was a hungry man without any tobacco. Maybe he was a profligate
+and had used it all up on himself. Very good; he had a pair of
+suspenders. I exchanged half a dozen rations of bread for it--or a
+dozen rations if the suspenders were very good. Now I never wore
+suspenders, but that didn't matter. Around the corner lodged a
+long-timer, doing ten years for manslaughter. He wore suspenders, and
+he wanted a pair. I could trade them to him for some of his meat. Meat
+was what I wanted. Or perhaps he had a tattered, paper-covered novel.
+That was treasure-trove. I could read it and then trade it off to the
+bakers for cake, or to the cooks for meat and vegetables, or to the
+firemen for decent coffee, or to some one or other for the newspaper
+that occasionally filtered in, heaven alone knows how. The cooks,
+bakers, and firemen were prisoners like myself, and they lodged in our
+hall in the first row of cells over us.
+
+In short, a full-grown system of barter obtained in the Erie County
+Pen. There was even money in circulation. This money was sometimes
+smuggled in by the short-timers, more frequently came from the
+barber-shop graft, where the newcomers were mulcted, but most of all
+flowed from the cells of the long-timers--though how they got it I
+don't know.
+
+What of his preeminent position, the First Hall-man was reputed to be
+quite wealthy. In addition to his miscellaneous grafts, he grafted on
+us. We farmed the general wretchedness, and the First Hall-man was
+Farmer-General over all of us. We held our particular grafts by his
+permission, and we had to pay for that permission. As I say, he was
+reputed to be wealthy; but we never saw his money, and he lived in a
+cell all to himself in solitary grandeur.
+
+But that money was made in the Pen I had direct evidence, for I was
+cell-mate quite a time with the Third Hall-man. He had over sixteen
+dollars. He used to count his money every night after nine o'clock,
+when we were locked in. Also, he used to tell me each night what he
+would do to me if I gave away on him to the other hall-men. You see,
+he was afraid of being robbed, and danger threatened him from three
+different directions. There were the guards. A couple of them might
+jump upon him, give him a good beating for alleged insubordination,
+and throw him into the "solitaire" (the dungeon); and in the mix-up
+that sixteen dollars of his would take wings. Then again, the First
+Hall-man could have taken it all away from him by threatening to
+dismiss him and fire him back to hard labor in the prison-yard. And
+yet again, there were the ten of us who were ordinary hall-men. If we
+got an inkling of his wealth, there was a large liability, some quiet
+day, of the whole bunch of us getting him into a corner and dragging
+him down. Oh, we were wolves, believe me--just like the fellows who do
+business in Wall Street.
+
+He had good reason to be afraid of us, and so had I to be afraid of
+him. He was a huge, illiterate brute, an ex-Chesapeake-Bay-oyster-pirate,
+an "ex-con" who had done five years in Sing Sing, and a general
+all-around stupidly carnivorous beast. He used to trap sparrows that
+flew into our hall through the open bars. When he made a capture, he
+hurried away with it into his cell, where I have seen him crunching
+bones and spitting out feathers as he bolted it raw. Oh, no, I never
+gave away on him to the other hall-men. This is the first time I have
+mentioned his sixteen dollars.
+
+But I grafted on him just the same. He was in love with a woman
+prisoner who was confined in the "female department." He could neither
+read nor write, and I used to read her letters to him and write his
+replies. And I made him pay for it, too. But they were good letters. I
+laid myself out on them, put in my best licks, and furthermore, I won
+her for him; though I shrewdly guess that she was in love, not with
+him, but with the humble scribe. I repeat, those letters were great.
+
+Another one of our grafts was "passing the punk." We were the
+celestial messengers, the fire-bringers, in that iron world of bolt
+and bar. When the men came in from work at night and were locked in
+their cells, they wanted to smoke. Then it was that we restored the
+divine spark, running the galleries, from cell to cell, with our
+smouldering punks. Those who were wise, or with whom we did business,
+had their punks all ready to light. Not every one got divine sparks,
+however. The guy who refused to dig up, went sparkless and smokeless
+to bed. But what did we care? We had the immortal cinch on him, and if
+he got fresh, two or three of us would pitch on him and give him
+"what-for."
+
+You see, this was the working-theory of the hall-men. There were
+thirteen of us. We had something like half a thousand prisoners in our
+hall. We were supposed to do the work, and to keep order. The latter
+was the function of the guards, which they turned over to us. It was
+up to us to keep order; if we didn't, we'd be fired back to hard
+labor, most probably with a taste of the dungeon thrown in. But so
+long as we maintained order, that long could we work our own
+particular grafts.
+
+Bear with me a moment and look at the problem. Here were thirteen
+beasts of us over half a thousand other beasts. It was a living hell,
+that prison, and it was up to us thirteen there to rule. It was
+impossible, considering the nature of the beasts, for us to rule by
+kindness. We ruled by fear. Of course, behind us, backing us up, were
+the guards. In extremity we called upon them for help; but it would
+bother them if we called upon them too often, in which event we could
+depend upon it that they would get more efficient trusties to take our
+places. But we did not call upon them often, except in a quiet sort of
+way, when we wanted a cell unlocked in order to get at a refractory
+prisoner inside. In such cases all the guard did was to unlock the
+door and walk away so as not to be a witness of what happened when
+half a dozen hall-men went inside and did a bit of man-handling.
+
+As regards the details of this man-handling I shall say nothing. And
+after all, man-handling was merely one of the very minor unprintable
+horrors of the Erie County Pen. I say "unprintable"; and in justice I
+must also say "unthinkable." They were unthinkable to me until I saw
+them, and I was no spring chicken in the ways of the world and the
+awful abysses of human degradation. It would take a deep plummet to
+reach bottom in the Erie County Pen, and I do but skim lightly and
+facetiously the surface of things as I there saw them.
+
+At times, say in the morning when the prisoners came down to wash, the
+thirteen of us would be practically alone in the midst of them, and
+every last one of them had it in for us. Thirteen against five
+hundred, and we ruled by fear. We could not permit the slightest
+infraction of rules, the slightest insolence. If we did, we were lost.
+Our own rule was to hit a man as soon as he opened his mouth--hit him
+hard, hit him with anything. A broom-handle, end-on, in the face, had
+a very sobering effect. But that was not all. Such a man must be made
+an example of; so the next rule was to wade right in and follow him
+up. Of course, one was sure that every hall-man in sight would come on
+the run to join in the chastisement; for this also was a rule.
+Whenever any hall-man was in trouble with a prisoner, the duty of any
+other hall-man who happened to be around was to lend a fist. Never
+mind the merits of the case--wade in and hit, and hit with anything;
+in short, lay the man out.
+
+I remember a handsome young mulatto of about twenty who got the insane
+idea into his head that he should stand for his rights. And he did
+have the right of it, too; but that didn't help him any. He lived on
+the topmost gallery. Eight hall-men took the conceit out of him in
+just about a minute and a half--for that was the length of time
+required to travel along his gallery to the end and down five flights
+of steel stairs. He travelled the whole distance on every portion of
+his anatomy except his feet, and the eight hall-men were not idle. The
+mulatto struck the pavement where I was standing watching it all. He
+regained his feet and stood upright for a moment. In that moment he
+threw his arms wide apart and omitted an awful scream of terror and
+pain and heartbreak. At the same instant, as in a transformation
+scene, the shreds of his stout prison clothes fell from him, leaving
+him wholly naked and streaming blood from every portion of the surface
+of his body. Then he collapsed in a heap, unconscious. He had learned
+his lesson, and every convict within those walls who heard him scream
+had learned a lesson. So had I learned mine. It is not a nice thing to
+see a man's heart broken in a minute and a half.
+
+The following will illustrate how we drummed up business in the graft
+of passing the punk. A row of newcomers is installed in your cells.
+You pass along before the bars with your punk. "Hey, Bo, give us a
+light," some one calls to you. Now this is an advertisement that that
+particular man has tobacco on him. You pass in the punk and go your
+way. A little later you come back and lean up casually against the
+bars. "Say, Bo, can you let us have a little tobacco?" is what you
+say. If he is not wise to the game, the chances are that he solemnly
+avers that he hasn't any more tobacco. All very well. You condole with
+him and go your way. But you know that his punk will last him only the
+rest of that day. Next day you come by, and he says again, "Hey, Bo,
+give us a light." And you say, "You haven't any tobacco and you don't
+need a light." And you don't give him any, either. Half an hour after,
+or an hour or two or three hours, you will be passing by and the man
+will call out to you in mild tones, "Come here, Bo." And you come. You
+thrust your hand between the bars and have it filled with precious
+tobacco. Then you give him a light.
+
+Sometimes, however, a newcomer arrives, upon whom no grafts are to be
+worked. The mysterious word is passed along that he is to be treated
+decently. Where this word originated I could never learn. The one
+thing patent is that the man has a "pull." It may be with one of the
+superior hall-men; it may be with one of the guards in some other part
+of the prison; it may be that good treatment has been purchased from
+grafters higher up; but be it as it may, we know that it is up to us
+to treat him decently if we want to avoid trouble.
+
+We hall-men were middle-men and common carriers. We arranged trades
+between convicts confined in different parts of the prison, and we put
+through the exchange. Also, we took our commissions coming and going.
+Sometimes the objects traded had to go through the hands of half a
+dozen middle-men, each of whom took his whack, or in some way or
+another was paid for his service.
+
+Sometimes one was in debt for services, and sometimes one had others
+in his debt. Thus, I entered the prison in debt to the convict who
+smuggled in my things for me. A week or so afterward, one of the
+firemen passed a letter into my hand. It had been given to him by a
+barber. The barber had received it from the convict who had smuggled
+in my things. Because of my debt to him I was to carry the letter on.
+But he had not written the letter. The original sender was a
+long-timer in his hall. The letter was for a woman prisoner in the
+female department. But whether it was intended for her, or whether
+she, in turn, was one of the chain of go-betweens, I did not know. All
+that I knew was her description, and that it was up to me to get it
+into her hands.
+
+Two days passed, during which time I kept the letter in my possession;
+then the opportunity came. The women did the mending of all the
+clothes worn by the convicts. A number of our hall-men had to go to
+the female department to bring back huge bundles of clothes. I fixed
+it with the First Hall-man that I was to go along. Door after door was
+unlocked for us as we threaded our way across the prison to the
+women's quarters. We entered a large room where the women sat working
+at their mending. My eyes were peeled for the woman who had been
+described to me. I located her and worked near to her. Two eagle-eyed
+matrons were on watch. I held the letter in my palm, and I looked my
+intention at the woman. She knew I had something for her; she must
+have been expecting it, and had set herself to divining, at the moment
+we entered, which of us was the messenger. But one of the matrons
+stood within two feet of her. Already the hall-men were picking up the
+bundles they were to carry away. The moment was passing. I delayed
+with my bundle, making believe that it was not tied securely. Would
+that matron ever look away? Or was I to fail? And just then another
+woman cut up playfully with one of the hall-men--stuck out her foot
+and tripped him, or pinched him, or did something or other. The matron
+looked that way and reprimanded the woman sharply. Now I do not know
+whether or not this was all planned to distract the matron's
+attention, but I did know that it was my opportunity. My particular
+woman's hand dropped from her lap down by her side. I stooped to pick
+up my bundle. From my stooping position I slipped the letter into her
+hand, and received another in exchange. The next moment the bundle
+was on my shoulder, the matron's gaze had returned to me because I was
+the last hall-man, and I was hastening to catch up with my companions.
+The letter I had received from the woman I turned over to the fireman,
+and thence it passed through the hands of the barber, of the convict
+who had smuggled in my things, and on to the long-timer at the other
+end.
+
+Often we conveyed letters, the chain of communication of which was so
+complex that we knew neither sender nor sendee. We were but links in
+the chain. Somewhere, somehow, a convict would thrust a letter into my
+hand with the instruction to pass it on to the next link. All such
+acts were favors to be reciprocated later on, when I should be acting
+directly with a principal in transmitting letters, and from whom I
+should be receiving my pay. The whole prison was covered by a network
+of lines of communication. And we who were in control of the system of
+communication, naturally, since we were modelled after capitalistic
+society, exacted heavy tolls from our customers. It was service for
+profit with a vengeance, though we were at times not above giving
+service for love.
+
+And all the time I was in the Pen I was making myself solid with my
+pal. He had done much for me, and in return he expected me to do as
+much for him. When we got out, we were to travel together, and, it
+goes without saying, pull off "jobs" together. For my pal was a
+criminal--oh, not a jewel of the first water, merely a petty criminal
+who would steal and rob, commit burglary, and, if cornered, not stop
+short of murder. Many a quiet hour we sat and talked together. He had
+two or three jobs in view for the immediate future, in which my work
+was cut out for me, and in which I joined in planning the details. I
+had been with and seen much of criminals, and my pal never dreamed
+that I was only fooling him, giving him a string thirty days long. He
+thought I was the real goods, liked me because I was not stupid, and
+liked me a bit, too, I think, for myself. Of course I had not the
+slightest intention of joining him in a life of sordid, petty crime;
+but I'd have been an idiot to throw away all the good things his
+friendship made possible. When one is on the hot lava of hell, he
+cannot pick and choose his path, and so it was with me in the Erie
+County Pen. I had to stay in with the "push," or do hard labor on
+bread and water; and to stay in with the push I had to make good with
+my pal.
+
+Life was not monotonous in the Pen. Every day something was happening:
+men were having fits, going crazy, fighting, or the hall-men were
+getting drunk. Rover Jack, one of the ordinary hall-men, was our star
+"oryide." He was a true "profesh," a "blowed-in-the-glass" stiff, and
+as such received all kinds of latitude from the hall-men in authority.
+Pittsburg Joe, who was Second Hall-man, used to join Rover Jack in his
+jags; and it was a saying of the pair that the Erie County Pen was the
+only place where a man could get "slopped" and not be arrested. I
+never knew, but I was told that bromide of potassium, gained in
+devious ways from the dispensary, was the dope they used. But I do
+know, whatever their dope was, that they got good and drunk on
+occasion.
+
+Our hall was a common stews, filled with the ruck and the filth, the
+scum and dregs, of society--hereditary inefficients, degenerates,
+wrecks, lunatics, addled intelligences, epileptics, monsters,
+weaklings, in short, a very nightmare of humanity. Hence, fits
+flourished with us. These fits seemed contagious. When one man began
+throwing a fit, others followed his lead. I have seen seven men down
+with fits at the same time, making the air hideous with their cries,
+while as many more lunatics would be raging and gibbering up and down.
+Nothing was ever done for the men with fits except to throw cold water
+on them. It was useless to send for the medical student or the doctor.
+They were not to be bothered with such trivial and frequent
+occurrences.
+
+There was a young Dutch boy, about eighteen years of age, who had fits
+most frequently of all. He usually threw one every day. It was for
+that reason that we kept him on the ground floor farther down in the
+row of cells in which we lodged. After he had had a few fits in the
+prison-yard, the guards refused to be bothered with him any more, and
+so he remained locked up in his cell all day with a Cockney cell-mate,
+to keep him company. Not that the Cockney was of any use. Whenever the
+Dutch boy had a fit, the Cockney became paralyzed with terror.
+
+The Dutch boy could not speak a word of English. He was a farmer's
+boy, serving ninety days as punishment for having got into a scrap
+with some one. He prefaced his fits with howling. He howled like a
+wolf. Also, he took his fits standing up, which was very inconvenient
+for him, for his fits always culminated in a headlong pitch to the
+floor. Whenever I heard the long wolf-howl rising, I used to grab a
+broom and run to his cell. Now the trusties were not allowed keys to
+the cells, so I could not get in to him. He would stand up in the
+middle of his narrow cell, shivering convulsively, his eyes rolled
+backward till only the whites were visible, and howling like a lost
+soul. Try as I would, I could never get the Cockney to lend him a
+hand. While he stood and howled, the Cockney crouched and trembled in
+the upper bunk, his terror-stricken gaze fixed on that awful figure,
+with eyes rolled back, that howled and howled. It was hard on him,
+too, the poor devil of a Cockney. His own reason was not any too
+firmly seated, and the wonder is that he did not go mad.
+
+All that I could do was my best with the broom. I would thrust it
+through the bars, train it on Dutchy's chest, and wait. As the crisis
+approached he would begin swaying back and forth. I followed this
+swaying with the broom, for there was no telling when he would take
+that dreadful forward pitch. But when he did, I was there with the
+broom, catching him and easing him down. Contrive as I would, he never
+came down quite gently, and his face was usually bruised by the stone
+floor. Once down and writhing in convulsions, I'd throw a bucket of
+water over him. I don't know whether cold water was the right thing or
+not, but it was the custom in the Erie County Pen. Nothing more than
+that was ever done for him. He would lie there, wet, for an hour or
+so, and then crawl into his bunk. I knew better than to run to a guard
+for assistance. What was a man with a fit, anyway?
+
+In the adjoining cell lived a strange character--a man who was doing
+sixty days for eating swill out of Barnum's swill-barrel, or at least
+that was the way he put it. He was a badly addled creature, and, at
+first, very mild and gentle. The facts of his case were as he had
+stated them. He had strayed out to the circus ground, and, being
+hungry, had made his way to the barrel that contained the refuse from
+the table of the circus people. "And it was good bread," he often
+assured me; "and the meat was out of sight." A policeman had seen him
+and arrested him, and there he was.
+
+Once I passed his cell with a piece of stiff thin wire in my hand. He
+asked me for it so earnestly that I passed it through the bars to him.
+Promptly, and with no tool but his fingers, he broke it into short
+lengths and twisted them into half a dozen very creditable safety
+pins. He sharpened the points on the stone floor. Thereafter I did
+quite a trade in safety pins. I furnished the raw material and peddled
+the finished product, and he did the work. As wages, I paid him extra
+rations of bread, and once in a while a chunk of meat or a piece of
+soup-bone with some marrow inside.
+
+But his imprisonment told on him, and he grew violent day by day. The
+hall-men took delight in teasing him. They filled his weak brain with
+stories of a great fortune that had been left him. It was in order to
+rob him of it that he had been arrested and sent to jail. Of course,
+as he himself knew, there was no law against eating out of a barrel.
+Therefore he was wrongly imprisoned. It was a plot to deprive him of
+his fortune.
+
+The first I knew of it, I heard the hall-men laughing about the string
+they had given him. Next he held a serious conference with me, in
+which he told me of his millions and the plot to deprive him of them,
+and in which he appointed me his detective. I did my best to let him
+down gently, speaking vaguely of a mistake, and that it was another
+man with a similar name who was the rightful heir. I left him quite
+cooled down; but I couldn't keep the hall-men away from him, and they
+continued to string him worse than ever. In the end, after a most
+violent scene, he threw me down, revoked my private detectiveship, and
+went on strike. My trade in safety pins ceased. He refused to make any
+more safety pins, and he peppered me with raw material through the
+bars of his cell when I passed by.
+
+I could never make it up with him. The other hall-men told him that I
+was a detective in the employ of the conspirators. And in the meantime
+the hall-men drove him mad with their stringing. His fictitious wrongs
+preyed upon his mind, and at last he became a dangerous and homicidal
+lunatic. The guards refused to listen to his tale of stolen millions,
+and he accused them of being in the plot. One day he threw a pannikin
+of hot tea over one of them, and then his case was investigated. The
+warden talked with him a few minutes through the bars of his cell.
+Then he was taken away for examination before the doctors. He never
+came back, and I often wonder if he is dead, or if he still gibbers
+about his millions in some asylum for the insane.
+
+At last came the day of days, my release. It was the day of release
+for the Third Hall-man as well, and the short-timer girl I had won for
+him was waiting for him outside the wall. They went away blissfully
+together. My pal and I went out together, and together we walked down
+into Buffalo. Were we not to be together always? We begged together on
+the "main-drag" that day for pennies, and what we received was spent
+for "shupers" of beer--I don't know how they are spelled, but they are
+pronounced the way I have spelled them, and they cost three cents. I
+was watching my chance all the time for a get-away. From some bo on
+the drag I managed to learn what time a certain freight pulled out. I
+calculated my time accordingly. When the moment came, my pal and I
+were in a saloon. Two foaming shupers were before us. I'd have liked
+to say good-by. He had been good to me. But I did not dare. I went out
+through the rear of the saloon and jumped the fence. It was a swift
+sneak, and a few minutes later I was on board a freight and heading
+south on the Western New York and Pennsylvania Railroad.
+
+
+
+
+HOBOES THAT PASS IN THE NIGHT
+
+
+In the course of my tramping I encountered hundreds of hoboes, whom I
+hailed or who hailed me, and with whom I waited at water-tanks,
+"boiled-up," cooked "mulligans," "battered" the "drag" or "privates,"
+and beat trains, and who passed and were seen never again. On the
+other hand, there were hoboes who passed and repassed with amazing
+frequency, and others, still, who passed like ghosts, close at hand,
+unseen, and never seen.
+
+It was one of the latter that I chased clear across Canada over three
+thousand miles of railroad, and never once did I lay eyes on him. His
+"monica" was Skysail Jack. I first ran into it at Montreal. Carved
+with a jack-knife was the skysail-yard of a ship. It was perfectly
+executed. Under it was "Skysail Jack." Above was "B.W. 9-15-94." This
+latter conveyed the information that he had passed through Montreal
+bound west, on October 15, 1894. He had one day the start of me.
+"Sailor Jack" was my monica at that particular time, and promptly I
+carved it alongside of his, along with the date and the information
+that I, too, was bound west.
+
+I had misfortune in getting over the next hundred miles, and eight
+days later I picked up Skysail Jack's trail three hundred miles west
+of Ottawa. There it was, carved on a water-tank, and by the date I saw
+that he likewise had met with delay. He was only two days ahead of me.
+I was a "comet" and "tramp-royal," so was Skysail Jack; and it was up
+to my pride and reputation to catch up with him. I "railroaded" day
+and night, and I passed him; then turn about he passed me. Sometimes
+he was a day or so ahead, and sometimes I was. From hoboes, bound
+east, I got word of him occasionally, when he happened to be ahead;
+and from them I learned that he had become interested in Sailor Jack
+and was making inquiries about me.
+
+We'd have made a precious pair, I am sure, if we'd ever got together;
+but get together we couldn't. I kept ahead of him clear across
+Manitoba, but he led the way across Alberta, and early one bitter gray
+morning, at the end of a division just east of Kicking Horse Pass, I
+learned that he had been seen the night before between Kicking Horse
+Pass and Rogers' Pass. It was rather curious the way the information
+came to me. I had been riding all night in a "side-door Pullman"
+(box-car), and nearly dead with cold had crawled out at the division
+to beg for food. A freezing fog was drifting past, and I "hit" some
+firemen I found in the round-house. They fixed me up with the leavings
+from their lunch-pails, and in addition I got out of them nearly a
+quart of heavenly "Java" (coffee). I heated the latter, and, as I sat
+down to eat, a freight pulled in from the west. I saw a side-door open
+and a road-kid climb out. Through the drifting fog he limped over to
+me. He was stiff with cold, his lips blue. I shared my Java and grub
+with him, learned about Skysail Jack, and then learned about him.
+Behold, he was from my own town, Oakland, California, and he was a
+member of the celebrated Boo Gang--a gang with which I had affiliated
+at rare intervals. We talked fast and bolted the grub in the half-hour
+that followed. Then my freight pulled out, and I was on it, bound west
+on the trail of Skysail Jack.
+
+I was delayed between the passes, went two days without food, and
+walked eleven miles on the third day before I got any, and yet I
+succeeded in passing Skysail Jack along the Fraser River in British
+Columbia. I was riding "passengers" then and making time; but he must
+have been riding passengers, too, and with more luck or skill than I,
+for he got into Mission ahead of me.
+
+Now Mission was a junction, forty miles east of Vancouver. From the
+junction one could proceed south through Washington and Oregon over
+the Northern Pacific. I wondered which way Skysail Jack would go, for
+I thought I was ahead of him. As for myself I was still bound west to
+Vancouver. I proceeded to the water-tank to leave that information,
+and there, freshly carved, with that day's date upon it, was Skysail
+Jack's monica. I hurried on into Vancouver. But he was gone. He had
+taken ship immediately and was still flying west on his
+world-adventure. Truly, Skysail Jack, you were a tramp-royal, and your
+mate was the "wind that tramps the world." I take off my hat to you.
+You were "blowed-in-the-glass" all right. A week later I, too, got my
+ship, and on board the steamship Umatilla, in the forecastle, was
+working my way down the coast to San Francisco. Skysail Jack and
+Sailor Jack--gee! if we'd ever got together.
+
+Water-tanks are tramp directories. Not all in idle wantonness do
+tramps carve their monicas, dates, and courses. Often and often have I
+met hoboes earnestly inquiring if I had seen anywhere such and such a
+"stiff" or his monica. And more than once I have been able to give the
+monica of recent date, the water-tank, and the direction in which he
+was then bound. And promptly the hobo to whom I gave the information
+lit out after his pal. I have met hoboes who, in trying to catch a
+pal, had pursued clear across the continent and back again, and were
+still going.
+
+"Monicas" are the nom-de-rails that hoboes assume or accept when
+thrust upon them by their fellows. Leary Joe, for instance, was timid,
+and was so named by his fellows. No self-respecting hobo would select
+Stew Bum for himself. Very few tramps care to remember their pasts
+during which they ignobly worked, so monicas based upon trades are
+very rare, though I remember having met the following: Moulder
+Blackey, Painter Red, Chi Plumber, Boiler-Maker, Sailor Boy, and
+Printer Bo. "Chi" (pronounced shy), by the way, is the argot for
+"Chicago."
+
+A favorite device of hoboes is to base their monicas on the localities
+from which they hail, as: New York Tommy, Pacific Slim, Buffalo
+Smithy, Canton Tim, Pittsburg Jack, Syracuse Shine, Troy Mickey, K.L.
+Bill, and Connecticut Jimmy. Then there was "Slim Jim from Vinegar
+Hill, who never worked and never will." A "shine" is always a negro,
+so called, possibly, from the high lights on his countenance. Texas
+Shine or Toledo Shine convey both race and nativity.
+
+Among those that incorporated their race, I recollect the following:
+Frisco Sheeny, New York Irish, Michigan French, English Jack, Cockney
+Kid, and Milwaukee Dutch. Others seem to take their monicas in part
+from the color-schemes stamped upon them at birth, such as: Chi
+Whitey, New Jersey Red, Boston Blackey, Seattle Browney, and Yellow
+Dick and Yellow Belly--the last a Creole from Mississippi, who, I
+suspect, had his monica thrust upon him.
+
+Texas Royal, Happy Joe, Bust Connors, Burley Bo, Tornado Blackey, and
+Touch McCall used more imagination in rechristening themselves.
+Others, with less fancy, carry the names of their physical
+peculiarities, such as: Vancouver Slim, Detroit Shorty, Ohio Fatty,
+Long Jack, Big Jim, Little Joe, New York Blink, Chi Nosey, and
+Broken-backed Ben.
+
+By themselves come the road-kids, sporting an infinite variety of
+monicas. For example, the following, whom here and there I have
+encountered: Buck Kid, Blind Kid, Midget Kid, Holy Kid, Bat Kid, Swift
+Kid, Cookey Kid, Monkey Kid, Iowa Kid, Corduroy Kid, Orator Kid (who
+could tell how it happened), and Lippy Kid (who was insolent, depend
+upon it).
+
+On the water-tank at San Marcial, New Mexico, a dozen years ago, was
+the following hobo bill of fare:--
+
+ (1) Main-drag fair.
+ (2) Bulls not hostile.
+ (3) Round-house good for kipping.
+ (4) North-bound trains no good.
+ (5) Privates no good.
+ (6) Restaurants good for cooks only.
+ (7) Railroad House good for night-work only.
+
+Number one conveys the information that begging for money on the main
+street is fair; number two, that the police will not bother hoboes;
+number three, that one can sleep in the round-house. Number four,
+however, is ambiguous. The north-bound trains may be no good to beat,
+and they may be no good to beg. Number five means that the residences
+are not good to beggars, and number six means that only hoboes that
+have been cooks can get grub from the restaurants. Number seven
+bothers me. I cannot make out whether the Railroad House is a good
+place for any hobo to beg at night, or whether it is good only for
+hobo-cooks to beg at night, or whether any hobo, cook or non-cook, can
+lend a hand at night, helping the cooks of the Railroad House with
+their dirty work and getting something to eat in payment.
+
+But to return to the hoboes that pass in the night. I remember one I
+met in California. He was a Swede, but he had lived so long in the
+United States that one couldn't guess his nationality. He had to tell
+it on himself. In fact, he had come to the United States when no more
+than a baby. I ran into him first at the mountain town of Truckee.
+"Which way, Bo?" was our greeting, and "Bound east" was the answer
+each of us gave. Quite a bunch of "stiffs" tried to ride out the
+overland that night, and I lost the Swede in the shuffle. Also, I lost
+the overland.
+
+I arrived in Reno, Nevada, in a box-car that was promptly
+side-tracked. It was a Sunday morning, and after I threw my feet for
+breakfast, I wandered over to the Piute camp to watch the Indians
+gambling. And there stood the Swede, hugely interested. Of course we
+got together. He was the only acquaintance I had in that region, and I
+was his only acquaintance. We rushed together like a couple of
+dissatisfied hermits, and together we spent the day, threw our feet
+for dinner, and late in the afternoon tried to "nail" the same
+freight. But he was ditched, and I rode her out alone, to be ditched
+myself in the desert twenty miles beyond.
+
+Of all desolate places, the one at which I was ditched was the limit.
+It was called a flag-station, and it consisted of a shanty dumped
+inconsequentially into the sand and sagebrush. A chill wind was
+blowing, night was coming on, and the solitary telegraph operator who
+lived in the shanty was afraid of me. I knew that neither grub nor bed
+could I get out of him. It was because of his manifest fear of me that
+I did not believe him when he told me that east-bound trains never
+stopped there. Besides, hadn't I been thrown off of an east-bound
+train right at that very spot not five minutes before? He assured me
+that it had stopped under orders, and that a year might go by before
+another was stopped under orders. He advised me that it was only a
+dozen or fifteen miles on to Wadsworth and that I'd better hike. I
+elected to wait, however, and I had the pleasure of seeing two
+west-bound freights go by without stopping, and one east-bound
+freight. I wondered if the Swede was on the latter. It was up to me to
+hit the ties to Wadsworth, and hit them I did, much to the telegraph
+operator's relief, for I neglected to burn his shanty and murder him.
+Telegraph operators have much to be thankful for. At the end of half a
+dozen miles, I had to get off the ties and let the east-bound overland
+go by. She was going fast, but I caught sight of a dim form on the
+first "blind" that looked like the Swede.
+
+That was the last I saw of him for weary days. I hit the high places
+across those hundreds of miles of Nevada desert, riding the overlands
+at night, for speed, and in the day-time riding in box-cars and
+getting my sleep. It was early in the year, and it was cold in those
+upland pastures. Snow lay here and there on the level, all the
+mountains were shrouded in white, and at night the most miserable wind
+imaginable blew off from them. It was not a land in which to linger.
+And remember, gentle reader, the hobo goes through such a land,
+without shelter, without money, begging his way and sleeping at night
+without blankets. This last is something that can be realized only by
+experience.
+
+In the early evening I came down to the depot at Ogden. The overland
+of the Union Pacific was pulling east, and I was bent on making
+connections. Out in the tangle of tracks ahead of the engine I
+encountered a figure slouching through the gloom. It was the Swede. We
+shook hands like long-lost brothers, and discovered that our hands
+were gloved. "Where'd ye glahm 'em?" I asked. "Out of an engine-cab,"
+he answered; "and where did you?" "They belonged to a fireman," said
+I; "he was careless."
+
+We caught the blind as the overland pulled out, and mighty cold we
+found it. The way led up a narrow gorge between snow-covered
+mountains, and we shivered and shook and exchanged confidences about
+how we had covered the ground between Reno and Ogden. I had closed my
+eyes for only an hour or so the previous night, and the blind was not
+comfortable enough to suit me for a snooze. At a stop, I went forward
+to the engine. We had on a "double-header" (two engines) to take us
+over the grade.
+
+The pilot of the head engine, because it "punched the wind," I knew
+would be too cold; so I selected the pilot of the second engine, which
+was sheltered by the first engine. I stepped on the cowcatcher and
+found the pilot occupied. In the darkness I felt out the form of a
+young boy. He was sound asleep. By squeezing, there was room for two
+on the pilot, and I made the boy budge over and crawled up beside him.
+It was a "good" night; the "shacks" (brakemen) didn't bother us, and
+in no time we were asleep. Once in a while hot cinders or heavy jolts
+aroused me, when I snuggled closer to the boy and dozed off to the
+coughing of the engines and the screeching of the wheels.
+
+The overland made Evanston, Wyoming, and went no farther. A wreck
+ahead blocked the line. The dead engineer had been brought in, and his
+body attested the peril of the way. A tramp, also, had been killed,
+but his body had not been brought in. I talked with the boy. He was
+thirteen years old. He had run away from his folks in some place in
+Oregon, and was heading east to his grandmother. He had a tale of
+cruel treatment in the home he had left that rang true; besides, there
+was no need for him to lie to me, a nameless hobo on the track.
+
+And that boy was going some, too. He couldn't cover the ground fast
+enough. When the division superintendents decided to send the overland
+back over the way it had come, then up on a cross "jerk" to the Oregon
+Short Line, and back along that road to tap the Union Pacific the
+other side of the wreck, that boy climbed upon the pilot and said he
+was going to stay with it. This was too much for the Swede and me. It
+meant travelling the rest of that frigid night in order to gain no
+more than a dozen miles or so. We said we'd wait till the wreck was
+cleared away, and in the meantime get a good sleep.
+
+Now it is no snap to strike a strange town, broke, at midnight, in
+cold weather, and find a place to sleep. The Swede hadn't a penny. My
+total assets consisted of two dimes and a nickel. From some of the
+town boys we learned that beer was five cents, and that the saloons
+kept open all night. There was our meat. Two glasses of beer would
+cost ten cents, there would be a stove and chairs, and we could sleep
+it out till morning. We headed for the lights of a saloon, walking
+briskly, the snow crunching under our feet, a chill little wind
+blowing through us.
+
+Alas, I had misunderstood the town boys. Beer was five cents in one
+saloon only in the whole burg, and we didn't strike that saloon. But
+the one we entered was all right. A blessed stove was roaring
+white-hot; there were cosey, cane-bottomed arm-chairs, and a
+none-too-pleasant-looking barkeeper who glared suspiciously at us as
+we came in. A man cannot spend continuous days and nights in his
+clothes, beating trains, fighting soot and cinders, and sleeping
+anywhere, and maintain a good "front." Our fronts were decidedly
+against us; but what did we care? I had the price in my jeans.
+
+"Two beers," said I nonchalantly to the barkeeper, and while he drew
+them, the Swede and I leaned against the bar and yearned secretly for
+the arm-chairs by the stove.
+
+The barkeeper set the two foaming glasses before us, and with pride I
+deposited the ten cents. Now I was dead game. As soon as I learned my
+error in the price I'd have dug up another ten cents. Never mind if it
+did leave me only a nickel to my name, a stranger in a strange land.
+I'd have paid it all right. But that barkeeper never gave me a chance.
+As soon as his eyes spotted the dime I had laid down, he seized the
+two glasses, one in each hand, and dumped the beer into the sink
+behind the bar. At the same time, glaring at us malevolently, he
+said:--
+
+"You've got scabs on your nose. You've got scabs on your nose. You've
+got scabs on your nose. See!"
+
+I hadn't either, and neither had the Swede. Our noses were all right.
+The direct bearing of his words was beyond our comprehension, but the
+indirect bearing was clear as print: he didn't like our looks, and
+beer was evidently ten cents a glass.
+
+I dug down and laid another dime on the bar, remarking carelessly,
+"Oh, I thought this was a five-cent joint."
+
+"Your money's no good here," he answered, shoving the two dimes across
+the bar to me.
+
+Sadly I dropped them back into my pocket, sadly we yearned toward the
+blessed stove and the arm-chairs, and sadly we went out the door into
+the frosty night.
+
+But as we went out the door, the barkeeper, still glaring, called
+after us, "You've got scabs on your nose, see!"
+
+I have seen much of the world since then, journeyed among strange
+lands and peoples, opened many books, sat in many lecture-halls; but
+to this day, though I have pondered long and deep, I have been unable
+to divine the meaning in the cryptic utterance of that barkeeper in
+Evanston, Wyoming. Our noses _were_ all right.
+
+We slept that night over the boilers in an electric-lighting plant.
+How we discovered that "kipping" place I can't remember. We must have
+just headed for it, instinctively, as horses head for water or
+carrier-pigeons head for the home-cote. But it was a night not
+pleasant to remember. A dozen hoboes were ahead of us on top the
+boilers, and it was too hot for all of us. To complete our misery, the
+engineer would not let us stand around down below. He gave us our
+choice of the boilers or the outside snow.
+
+"You said you wanted to sleep, and so, damn you, sleep," said he to
+me, when, frantic and beaten out by the heat, I came down into the
+fire-room.
+
+"Water," I gasped, wiping the sweat from my eyes, "water."
+
+He pointed out of doors and assured me that down there somewhere in
+the blackness I'd find the river. I started for the river, got lost in
+the dark, fell into two or three drifts, gave it up, and returned
+half-frozen to the top of the boilers. When I had thawed out, I was
+thirstier than ever. Around me the hoboes were moaning, groaning,
+sobbing, sighing, gasping, panting, rolling and tossing and
+floundering heavily in their torment. We were so many lost souls
+toasting on a griddle in hell, and the engineer, Satan Incarnate, gave
+us the sole alternative of freezing in the outer cold. The Swede sat
+up and anathematized passionately the wanderlust in man that sent him
+tramping and suffering hardships such as that.
+
+"When I get back to Chicago," he perorated, "I'm going to get a job
+and stick to it till hell freezes over. Then I'll go tramping again."
+
+And, such is the irony of fate, next day, when the wreck ahead was
+cleared, the Swede and I pulled out of Evanston in the ice-boxes of an
+"orange special," a fast freight laden with fruit from sunny
+California. Of course, the ice-boxes were empty on account of the cold
+weather, but that didn't make them any warmer for us. We entered them
+through hatchways in the top of the car; the boxes were constructed of
+galvanized iron, and in that biting weather were not pleasant to the
+touch. We lay there, shivered and shook, and with chattering teeth
+held a council wherein we decided that we'd stay by the ice-boxes day
+and night till we got out of the inhospitable plateau region and down
+into the Mississippi Valley.
+
+But we must eat, and we decided that at the next division we would
+throw our feet for grub and make a rush back to our ice-boxes. We
+arrived in the town of Green River late in the afternoon, but too
+early for supper. Before meal-time is the worst time for "battering"
+back-doors; but we put on our nerve, swung off the side-ladders as the
+freight pulled into the yards, and made a run for the houses. We were
+quickly separated; but we had agreed to meet in the ice-boxes. I had
+bad luck at first; but in the end, with a couple of "hand-outs" poked
+into my shirt, I chased for the train. It was pulling out and going
+fast. The particular refrigerator-car in which we were to meet had
+already gone by, and half a dozen cars down the train from it I swung
+on to the side-ladders, went up on top hurriedly, and dropped down
+into an ice-box.
+
+But a shack had seen me from the caboose, and at the next stop a few
+miles farther on, Rock Springs, the shack stuck his head into my box
+and said: "Hit the grit, you son of a toad! Hit the grit!" Also he
+grabbed me by the heels and dragged me out. I hit the grit all right,
+and the orange special and the Swede rolled on without me.
+
+Snow was beginning to fall. A cold night was coming on. After dark I
+hunted around in the railroad yards until I found an empty
+refrigerator car. In I climbed--not into the ice-boxes, but into the
+car itself. I swung the heavy doors shut, and their edges, covered
+with strips of rubber, sealed the car air-tight. The walls were thick.
+There was no way for the outside cold to get in. But the inside was
+just as cold as the outside. How to raise the temperature was the
+problem. But trust a "profesh" for that. Out of my pockets I dug up
+three or four newspapers. These I burned, one at a time, on the floor
+of the car. The smoke rose to the top. Not a bit of the heat could
+escape, and, comfortable and warm, I passed a beautiful night. I
+didn't wake up once.
+
+In the morning it was still snowing. While throwing my feet for
+breakfast, I missed an east-bound freight. Later in the day I nailed
+two other freights and was ditched from both of them. All afternoon no
+east-bound trains went by. The snow was falling thicker than ever, but
+at twilight I rode out on the first blind of the overland. As I swung
+aboard the blind from one side, somebody swung aboard from the other.
+It was the boy who had run away from Oregon.
+
+Now the first blind of a fast train in a driving snow-storm is no
+summer picnic. The wind goes right through one, strikes the front of
+the car, and comes back again. At the first stop, darkness having come
+on, I went forward and interviewed the fireman. I offered to "shove"
+coal to the end of his run, which was Rawlins, and my offer was
+accepted. My work was out on the tender, in the snow, breaking the
+lumps of coal with a sledge and shovelling it forward to him in the
+cab. But as I did not have to work all the time, I could come into the
+cab and warm up now and again.
+
+"Say," I said to the fireman, at my first breathing spell, "there's a
+little kid back there on the first blind. He's pretty cold."
+
+The cabs on the Union Pacific engines are quite spacious, and we
+fitted the kid into a warm nook in front of the high seat of the
+fireman, where the kid promptly fell asleep. We arrived at Rawlins at
+midnight. The snow was thicker than ever. Here the engine was to go
+into the round-house, being replaced by a fresh engine. As the train
+came to a stop, I dropped off the engine steps plump into the arms of
+a large man in a large overcoat. He began asking me questions, and I
+promptly demanded who he was. Just as promptly he informed me that he
+was the sheriff. I drew in my horns and listened and answered.
+
+He began describing the kid who was still asleep in the cab. I did
+some quick thinking. Evidently the family was on the trail of the kid,
+and the sheriff had received telegraphed instructions from Oregon.
+Yes, I had seen the kid. I had met him first in Ogden. The date
+tallied with the sheriff's information. But the kid was still behind
+somewhere, I explained, for he had been ditched from that very
+overland that night when it pulled out of Rock Springs. And all the
+time I was praying that the kid wouldn't wake up, come down out of the
+cab, and put the "kibosh" on me.
+
+The sheriff left me in order to interview the shacks, but before he
+left he said:--
+
+"Bo, this town is no place for you. Understand? You ride this train
+out, and make no mistake about it. If I catch you after it's gone ..."
+
+I assured him that it was not through desire that I was in his town;
+that the only reason I was there was that the train had stopped there;
+and that he wouldn't see me for smoke the way I'd get out of his darn
+town.
+
+While he went to interview the shacks, I jumped back into the cab. The
+kid was awake and rubbing his eyes. I told him the news and advised
+him to ride the engine into the round-house. To cut the story short,
+the kid made the same overland out, riding the pilot, with
+instructions to make an appeal to the fireman at the first stop for
+permission to ride in the engine. As for myself, I got ditched. The
+new fireman was young and not yet lax enough to break the rules of the
+Company against having tramps in the engine; so he turned down my
+offer to shove coal. I hope the kid succeeded with him, for all night
+on the pilot in that blizzard would have meant death.
+
+Strange to say, I do not at this late day remember a detail of how I
+was ditched at Rawlins. I remember watching the train as it was
+immediately swallowed up in the snow-storm, and of heading for a
+saloon to warm up. Here was light and warmth. Everything was in full
+blast and wide open. Faro, roulette, craps, and poker tables were
+running, and some mad cow-punchers were making the night merry. I had
+just succeeded in fraternizing with them and was downing my first
+drink at their expense, when a heavy hand descended on my shoulder. I
+looked around and sighed. It was the sheriff.
+
+Without a word he led me out into the snow.
+
+"There's an orange special down there in the yards," said he.
+
+"It's a damn cold night," said I.
+
+"It pulls out in ten minutes," said he.
+
+That was all. There was no discussion. And when that orange special
+pulled out, I was in the ice-boxes. I thought my feet would freeze
+before morning, and the last twenty miles into Laramie I stood upright
+in the hatchway and danced up and down. The snow was too thick for the
+shacks to see me, and I didn't care if they did.
+
+My quarter of a dollar bought me a hot breakfast at Laramie, and
+immediately afterward I was on board the blind baggage of an overland
+that was climbing to the pass through the backbone of the Rockies. One
+does not ride blind baggages in the daytime; but in this blizzard at
+the top of the Rocky Mountains I doubted if the shacks would have the
+heart to put me off. And they didn't. They made a practice of coming
+forward at every stop to see if I was frozen yet.
+
+At Ames' Monument, at the summit of the Rockies,--I forget the
+altitude,--the shack came forward for the last time.
+
+"Say, Bo," he said, "you see that freight side-tracked over there to
+let us go by?"
+
+I saw. It was on the next track, six feet away. A few feet more in
+that storm and I could not have seen it.
+
+"Well, the 'after-push' of Kelly's Army is in one of them cars.
+They've got two feet of straw under them, and there's so many of them
+that they keep the car warm."
+
+His advice was good, and I followed it, prepared, however, if it was a
+"con game" the shack had given me, to take the blind as the overland
+pulled out. But it was straight goods. I found the car--a big
+refrigerator car with the leeward door wide open for ventilation. Up I
+climbed and in. I stepped on a man's leg, next on some other man's
+arm. The light was dim, and all I could make out was arms and legs and
+bodies inextricably confused. Never was there such a tangle of
+humanity. They were all lying in the straw, and over, and under, and
+around one another. Eighty-four husky hoboes take up a lot of room
+when they are stretched out. The men I stepped on were resentful.
+Their bodies heaved under me like the waves of the sea, and imparted
+an involuntary forward movement to me. I could not find any straw to
+step upon, so I stepped upon more men. The resentment increased, so
+did my forward movement. I lost my footing and sat down with sharp
+abruptness. Unfortunately, it was on a man's head. The next moment he
+had risen on his hands and knees in wrath, and I was flying through
+the air. What goes up must come down, and I came down on another man's
+head.
+
+What happened after that is very vague in my memory. It was like going
+through a threshing-machine. I was bandied about from one end of the
+car to the other. Those eighty-four hoboes winnowed me out till what
+little was left of me, by some miracle, found a bit of straw to rest
+upon. I was initiated, and into a jolly crowd. All the rest of that
+day we rode through the blizzard, and to while the time away it was
+decided that each man was to tell a story. It was stipulated that
+each story must be a good one, and, furthermore, that it must be a
+story no one had ever heard before. The penalty for failure was the
+threshing-machine. Nobody failed. And I want to say right here that
+never in my life have I sat at so marvellous a story-telling debauch.
+Here were eighty-four men from all the world--I made eighty-five; and
+each man told a masterpiece. It had to be, for it was either
+masterpiece or threshing-machine.
+
+Late in the afternoon we arrived in Cheyenne. The blizzard was at its
+height, and though the last meal of all of us had been breakfast, no
+man cared to throw his feet for supper. All night we rolled on through
+the storm, and next day found us down on the sweet plains of Nebraska
+and still rolling. We were out of the storm and the mountains. The
+blessed sun was shining over a smiling land, and we had eaten nothing
+for twenty-four hours. We found out that the freight would arrive
+about noon at a town, if I remember right, that was called Grand
+Island.
+
+We took up a collection and sent a telegram to the authorities of that
+town. The text of the message was that eighty-five healthy, hungry
+hoboes would arrive about noon and that it would be a good idea to
+have dinner ready for them. The authorities of Grand Island had two
+courses open to them. They could feed us, or they could throw us in
+jail. In the latter event they'd have to feed us anyway, and they
+decided wisely that one meal would be the cheaper way.
+
+When the freight rolled into Grand Island at noon, we were sitting on
+the tops of the cars and dangling our legs in the sunshine. All the
+police in the burg were on the reception committee. They marched us in
+squads to the various hotels and restaurants, where dinners were
+spread for us. We had been thirty-six hours without food, and we
+didn't have to be taught what to do. After that we were marched back
+to the railroad station. The police had thoughtfully compelled the
+freight to wait for us. She pulled out slowly, and the eighty-five of
+us, strung out along the track, swarmed up the side-ladders. We
+"captured" the train.
+
+We had no supper that evening--at least the "push" didn't, but I did.
+Just at supper time, as the freight was pulling out of a small town,
+a man climbed into the car where I was playing pedro with three other
+stiffs. The man's shirt was bulging suspiciously. In his hand he
+carried a battered quart-measure from which arose steam. I smelled
+"Java." I turned my cards over to one of the stiffs who was looking
+on, and excused myself. Then, in the other end of the car, pursued by
+envious glances, I sat down with the man who had climbed aboard and
+shared his "Java" and the hand-outs that had bulged his shirt. It was
+the Swede.
+
+At about ten o'clock in the evening, we arrived at Omaha.
+
+"Let's shake the push," said the Swede to me.
+
+"Sure," said I.
+
+As the freight pulled into Omaha, we made ready to do so. But the
+people of Omaha were also ready. The Swede and I hung upon the
+side-ladders, ready to drop off. But the freight did not stop.
+Furthermore, long rows of policemen, their brass buttons and stars
+glittering in the electric lights, were lined up on each side of the
+track. The Swede and I knew what would happen to us if we ever dropped
+off into their arms. We stuck by the side-ladders, and the train
+rolled on across the Missouri River to Council Bluffs.
+
+"General" Kelly, with an army of two thousand hoboes, lay in camp at
+Chautauqua Park, several miles away. The after-push we were with was
+General Kelly's rear-guard, and, detraining at Council Bluffs, it
+started to march to camp. The night had turned cold, and heavy
+wind-squalls, accompanied by rain, were chilling and wetting us. Many
+police were guarding us and herding us to the camp. The Swede and I
+watched our chance and made a successful get-away.
+
+The rain began coming down in torrents, and in the darkness, unable to
+see our hands in front of our faces, like a pair of blind men we
+fumbled about for shelter. Our instinct served us, for in no time we
+stumbled upon a saloon--not a saloon that was open and doing business,
+not merely a saloon that was closed for the night, and not even a
+saloon with a permanent address, but a saloon propped up on big
+timbers, with rollers underneath, that was being moved from somewhere
+to somewhere. The doors were locked. A squall of wind and rain drove
+down upon us. We did not hesitate. Smash went the door, and in we
+went.
+
+I have made some tough camps in my time, "carried the banner" in
+infernal metropolises, bedded in pools of water, slept in the snow
+under two blankets when the spirit thermometer registered seventy-four
+degrees below zero (which is a mere trifle of one hundred and six
+degrees of frost); but I want to say right here that never did I make
+a tougher camp, pass a more miserable night, than that night I passed
+with the Swede in the itinerant saloon at Council Bluffs. In the first
+place, the building, perched up as it was in the air, had exposed a
+multitude of openings in the floor through which the wind whistled. In
+the second place, the bar was empty; there was no bottled fire-water
+with which we could warm ourselves and forget our misery. We had no
+blankets, and in our wet clothes, wet to the skin, we tried to sleep.
+I rolled under the bar, and the Swede rolled under the table. The
+holes and crevices in the floor made it impossible, and at the end of
+half an hour I crawled up on top the bar. A little later the Swede
+crawled up on top his table.
+
+And there we shivered and prayed for daylight. I know, for one, that I
+shivered until I could shiver no more, till the shivering muscles
+exhausted themselves and merely ached horribly. The Swede moaned and
+groaned, and every little while, through chattering teeth, he
+muttered, "Never again; never again." He muttered this phrase
+repeatedly, ceaselessly, a thousand times; and when he dozed, he went
+on muttering it in his sleep.
+
+At the first gray of dawn we left our house of pain, and outside,
+found ourselves in a mist, dense and chill. We stumbled on till we
+came to the railroad track. I was going back to Omaha to throw my feet
+for breakfast; my companion was going on to Chicago. The moment for
+parting had come. Our palsied hands went out to each other. We were
+both shivering. When we tried to speak, our teeth chattered us back
+into silence. We stood alone, shut off from the world; all that we
+could see was a short length of railroad track, both ends of which
+were lost in the driving mist. We stared dumbly at each other, our
+clasped hands shaking sympathetically. The Swede's face was blue with
+the cold, and I know mine must have been.
+
+"Never again what?" I managed to articulate.
+
+Speech strove for utterance in the Swede's throat; then faint and
+distant, in a thin whisper from the very bottom of his frozen soul,
+came the words:--
+
+"Never again a hobo."
+
+He paused, and, as he went on again, his voice gathered strength and
+huskiness as it affirmed his will.
+
+"Never again a hobo. I'm going to get a job. You'd better do the same.
+Nights like this make rheumatism."
+
+He wrung my hand.
+
+"Good-by, Bo," said he.
+
+"Good-by, Bo," said I.
+
+The next we were swallowed up from each other by the mist. It was our
+final passing. But here's to you, Mr. Swede, wherever you are. I hope
+you got that job.
+
+
+
+
+ROAD-KIDS AND GAY-CATS
+
+
+Every once in a while, in newspapers, magazines, and biographical
+dictionaries, I run upon sketches of my life, wherein, delicately
+phrased, I learn that it was in order to study sociology that I became
+a tramp. This is very nice and thoughtful of the biographers, but it
+is inaccurate. I became a tramp--well, because of the life that was in
+me, of the wanderlust in my blood that would not let me rest.
+Sociology was merely incidental; it came afterward, in the same manner
+that a wet skin follows a ducking. I went on "The Road" because I
+couldn't keep away from it; because I hadn't the price of the railroad
+fare in my jeans; because I was so made that I couldn't work all my
+life on "one same shift"; because--well, just because it was easier to
+than not to.
+
+It happened in my own town, in Oakland, when I was sixteen. At that
+time I had attained a dizzy reputation in my chosen circle of
+adventurers, by whom I was known as the Prince of the Oyster Pirates.
+It is true, those immediately outside my circle, such as honest
+bay-sailors, longshoremen, yachtsmen, and the legal owners of the
+oysters, called me "tough," "hoodlum," "smoudge," "thief," "robber,"
+and various other not nice things--all of which was complimentary and
+but served to increase the dizziness of the high place in which I sat.
+At that time I had not read "Paradise Lost," and later, when I read
+Milton's "Better to reign in hell than serve in heaven," I was fully
+convinced that great minds run in the same channels.
+
+It was at this time that the fortuitous concatenation of events sent
+me upon my first adventure on The Road. It happened that there was
+nothing doing in oysters just then; that at Benicia, forty miles away,
+I had some blankets I wanted to get; and that at Port Costa, several
+miles from Benicia, a stolen boat lay at anchor in charge of the
+constable. Now this boat was owned by a friend of mine, by name Dinny
+McCrea. It had been stolen and left at Port Costa by Whiskey Bob,
+another friend of mine. (Poor Whiskey Bob! Only last winter his body
+was picked up on the beach shot full of holes by nobody knows whom.)
+I had come down from "up river" some time before, and reported to
+Dinny McCrea the whereabouts of his boat; and Dinny McCrea had
+promptly offered ten dollars to me if I should bring it down to
+Oakland to him.
+
+Time was heavy on my hands. I sat on the dock and talked it over with
+Nickey the Greek, another idle oyster pirate. "Let's go," said I, and
+Nickey was willing. He was "broke." I possessed fifty cents and a
+small skiff. The former I invested and loaded into the latter in the
+form of crackers, canned corned beef, and a ten-cent bottle of French
+mustard. (We were keen on French mustard in those days.) Then, late in
+the afternoon, we hoisted our small spritsail and started. We sailed
+all night, and next morning, on the first of a glorious flood-tide, a
+fair wind behind us, we came booming up the Carquinez Straits to Port
+Costa. There lay the stolen boat, not twenty-five feet from the wharf.
+We ran alongside and doused our little spritsail. I sent Nickey
+forward to lift the anchor, while I began casting off the gaskets.
+
+A man ran out on the wharf and hailed us. It was the constable. It
+suddenly came to me that I had neglected to get a written
+authorization from Dinny McCrea to take possession of his boat. Also,
+I knew that constable wanted to charge at least twenty-five dollars in
+fees for capturing the boat from Whiskey Bob and subsequently taking
+care of it. And my last fifty cents had been blown in for corned beef
+and French mustard, and the reward was only ten dollars anyway. I shot
+a glance forward to Nickey. He had the anchor up-and-down and was
+straining at it. "Break her out," I whispered to him, and turned and
+shouted back to the constable. The result was that he and I were
+talking at the same time, our spoken thoughts colliding in mid-air and
+making gibberish.
+
+The constable grew more imperative, and perforce I had to listen.
+Nickey was heaving on the anchor till I thought he'd burst a
+blood-vessel. When the constable got done with his threats and
+warnings, I asked him who he was. The time he lost in telling me
+enabled Nickey to break out the anchor. I was doing some quick
+calculating. At the feet of the constable a ladder ran down the dock
+to the water, and to the ladder was moored a skiff. The oars were in
+it. But it was padlocked. I gambled everything on that padlock. I
+felt the breeze on my cheek, saw the surge of the tide, looked at the
+remaining gaskets that confined the sail, ran my eyes up the halyards
+to the blocks and knew that all was clear, and then threw off all
+dissimulation.
+
+"In with her!" I shouted to Nickey, and sprang to the gaskets, casting
+them loose and thanking my stars that Whiskey Bob had tied them in
+square-knots instead of "grannies."
+
+The constable had slid down the ladder and was fumbling with a key at
+the padlock. The anchor came aboard and the last gasket was loosed at
+the same instant that the constable freed the skiff and jumped to the
+oars.
+
+"Peak-halyards!" I commanded my crew, at the same time swinging on to
+the throat-halyards. Up came the sail on the run. I belayed and ran
+aft to the tiller.
+
+"Stretch her!" I shouted to Nickey at the peak. The constable was just
+reaching for our stern. A puff of wind caught us, and we shot away. It
+was great. If I'd had a black flag, I know I'd have run it up in
+triumph. The constable stood up in the skiff, and paled the glory of
+the day with the vividness of his language. Also, he wailed for a gun.
+You see, that was another gamble we had taken.
+
+Anyway, we weren't stealing the boat. It wasn't the constable's. We
+were merely stealing his fees, which was his particular form of graft.
+And we weren't stealing the fees for ourselves, either; we were
+stealing them for my friend, Dinny McCrea.
+
+Benicia was made in a few minutes, and a few minutes later my blankets
+were aboard. I shifted the boat down to the far end of Steamboat
+Wharf, from which point of vantage we could see anybody coming after
+us. There was no telling. Maybe the Port Costa constable would
+telephone to the Benicia constable. Nickey and I held a council of
+war. We lay on deck in the warm sun, the fresh breeze on our cheeks,
+the flood-tide rippling and swirling past. It was impossible to start
+back to Oakland till afternoon, when the ebb would begin to run. But
+we figured that the constable would have an eye out on the Carquinez
+Straits when the ebb started, and that nothing remained for us but to
+wait for the following ebb, at two o'clock next morning, when we
+could slip by Cerberus in the darkness.
+
+So we lay on deck, smoked cigarettes, and were glad that we were
+alive. I spat over the side and gauged the speed of the current.
+
+"With this wind, we could run this flood clear to Rio Vista," I said.
+
+"And it's fruit-time on the river," said Nickey.
+
+"And low water on the river," said I. "It's the best time of the year
+to make Sacramento."
+
+We sat up and looked at each other. The glorious west wind was pouring
+over us like wine. We both spat over the side and gauged the current.
+Now I contend that it was all the fault of that flood-tide and fair
+wind. They appealed to our sailor instinct. If it had not been for
+them, the whole chain of events that was to put me upon The Road would
+have broken down.
+
+We said no word, but cast off our moorings and hoisted sail. Our
+adventures up the Sacramento River are no part of this narrative. We
+subsequently made the city of Sacramento and tied up at a wharf. The
+water was fine, and we spent most of our time in swimming. On the
+sand-bar above the railroad bridge we fell in with a bunch of boys
+likewise in swimming. Between swims we lay on the bank and talked.
+They talked differently from the fellows I had been used to herding
+with. It was a new vernacular. They were road-kids, and with every
+word they uttered the lure of The Road laid hold of me more
+imperiously.
+
+"When I was down in Alabama," one kid would begin; or, another,
+"Coming up on the C. & A. from K.C."; whereat, a third kid, "On the C.
+& A. there ain't no steps to the 'blinds.'" And I would lie silently
+in the sand and listen. "It was at a little town in Ohio on the Lake
+Shore and Michigan Southern," a kid would start; and another, "Ever
+ride the Cannonball on the Wabash?"; and yet another, "Nope, but I've
+been on the White Mail out of Chicago." "Talk about railroadin'--wait
+till you hit the Pennsylvania, four tracks, no water tanks, take water
+on the fly, that's goin' some." "The Northern Pacific's a bad road
+now." "Salinas is on the 'hog,' the 'bulls' is 'horstile.'" "I got
+'pinched' at El Paso, along with Moke Kid." "Talkin' of 'poke-outs,'
+wait till you hit the French country out of Montreal--not a word of
+English--you say, 'Mongee, Madame, mongee, no spika da French,' an'
+rub your stomach an' look hungry, an' she gives you a slice of
+sow-belly an' a chunk of dry 'punk.'"
+
+And I continued to lie in the sand and listen. These wanderers made my
+oyster-piracy look like thirty cents. A new world was calling to me in
+every word that was spoken--a world of rods and gunnels, blind
+baggages and "side-door Pullmans," "bulls" and "shacks," "floppings"
+and "chewin's," "pinches" and "get-aways," "strong arms" and
+"bindle-stiffs," "punks" and "profesh." And it all spelled Adventure.
+Very well; I would tackle this new world. I "lined" myself up
+alongside those road-kids. I was just as strong as any of them, just
+as quick, just as nervy, and my brain was just as good.
+
+After the swim, as evening came on, they dressed and went up town. I
+went along. The kids began "battering" the "main-stem" for "light
+pieces," or, in other words, begging for money on the main street. I
+had never begged in my life, and this was the hardest thing for me to
+stomach when I first went on The Road. I had absurd notions about
+begging. My philosophy, up to that time, was that it was finer to
+steal than to beg; and that robbery was finer still because the risk
+and the penalty were proportionately greater. As an oyster pirate I
+had already earned convictions at the hands of justice, which, if I
+had tried to serve them, would have required a thousand years in
+state's prison. To rob was manly; to beg was sordid and despicable.
+But I developed in the days to come all right, all right, till I came
+to look upon begging as a joyous prank, a game of wits, a
+nerve-exerciser.
+
+That first night, however, I couldn't rise to it; and the result was
+that when the kids were ready to go to a restaurant and eat, I wasn't.
+I was broke. Meeny Kid, I think it was, gave me the price, and we all
+ate together. But while I ate, I meditated. The receiver, it was said,
+was as bad as the thief; Meeny Kid had done the begging, and I was
+profiting by it. I decided that the receiver was a whole lot worse
+than the thief, and that it shouldn't happen again. And it didn't. I
+turned out next day and threw my feet as well as the next one.
+
+Nickey the Greek's ambition didn't run to The Road. He was not a
+success at throwing his feet, and he stowed away one night on a barge
+and went down river to San Francisco. I met him, only a week ago, at a
+pugilistic carnival. He has progressed. He sat in a place of honor at
+the ring-side. He is now a manager of prize-fighters and proud of it.
+In fact, in a small way, in local sportdom, he is quite a shining
+light.
+
+"No kid is a road-kid until he has gone over 'the hill'"--such was the
+law of The Road I heard expounded in Sacramento. All right, I'd go
+over the hill and matriculate. "The hill," by the way, was the Sierra
+Nevadas. The whole gang was going over the hill on a jaunt, and of
+course I'd go along. It was French Kid's first adventure on The Road.
+He had just run away from his people in San Francisco. It was up to
+him and me to deliver the goods. In passing, I may remark that my old
+title of "Prince" had vanished. I had received my "monica." I was now
+"Sailor Kid," later to be known as "'Frisco Kid," when I had put the
+Rockies between me and my native state.
+
+At 10.20 P.M. the Central Pacific overland pulled out of the depot at
+Sacramento for the East--that particular item of time-table is
+indelibly engraved on my memory. There were about a dozen in our gang,
+and we strung out in the darkness ahead of the train ready to take her
+out. All the local road-kids that we knew came down to see us
+off--also, to "ditch" us if they could. That was their idea of a joke,
+and there were only about forty of them to carry it out. Their
+ring-leader was a crackerjack road-kid named Bob. Sacramento was his
+home town, but he'd hit The Road pretty well everywhere over the whole
+country. He took French Kid and me aside and gave us advice something
+like this: "We're goin' to try an' ditch your bunch, see? Youse two
+are weak. The rest of the push can take care of itself. So, as soon as
+youse two nail a blind, deck her. An' stay on the decks till youse
+pass Roseville Junction, at which burg the constables are horstile,
+sloughin' in everybody on sight."
+
+The engine whistled and the overland pulled out. There were three
+blinds on her--room for all of us. The dozen of us who were trying to
+make her out would have preferred to slip aboard quietly; but our
+forty friends crowded on with the most amazing and shameless
+publicity and advertisement. Following Bob's advice, I immediately
+"decked her," that is, climbed up on top of the roof of one of the
+mail-cars. There I lay down, my heart jumping a few extra beats, and
+listened to the fun. The whole train crew was forward, and the
+ditching went on fast and furious. After the train had run half a
+mile, it stopped, and the crew came forward again and ditched the
+survivors. I, alone, had made the train out.
+
+Back at the depot, about him two or three of the push that had
+witnessed the accident, lay French Kid with both legs off. French Kid
+had slipped or stumbled--that was all, and the wheels had done the
+rest. Such was my initiation to The Road. It was two years afterward
+when I next saw French Kid and examined his "stumps." This was an act
+of courtesy. "Cripples" always like to have their stumps examined. One
+of the entertaining sights on The Road is to witness the meeting of
+two cripples. Their common disability is a fruitful source of
+conversation; and they tell how it happened, describe what they know
+of the amputation, pass critical judgment on their own and each
+other's surgeons, and wind up by withdrawing to one side, taking off
+bandages and wrappings, and comparing stumps.
+
+But it was not until several days later, over in Nevada, when the push
+caught up with me, that I learned of French Kid's accident. The push
+itself arrived in bad condition. It had gone through a train-wreck in
+the snow-sheds; Happy Joe was on crutches with two mashed legs, and
+the rest were nursing skins and bruises.
+
+In the meantime, I lay on the roof of the mail-car, trying to remember
+whether Roseville Junction, against which burg Bob had warned me, was
+the first stop or the second stop. To make sure, I delayed descending
+to the platform of the blind until after the second stop. And then I
+didn't descend. I was new to the game, and I felt safer where I was.
+But I never told the push that I held down the decks the whole night,
+clear across the Sierras, through snow-sheds and tunnels, and down to
+Truckee on the other side, where I arrived at seven in the morning.
+Such a thing was disgraceful, and I'd have been a common
+laughing-stock. This is the first time I have confessed the truth
+about that first ride over the hill. As for the push, it decided that
+I was all right, and when I came back over the hill to Sacramento, I
+was a full-fledged road-kid.
+
+Yet I had much to learn. Bob was my mentor, and he was all right. I
+remember one evening (it was fair-time in Sacramento, and we were
+knocking about and having a good time) when I lost my hat in a fight.
+There was I bare-headed in the street, and it was Bob to the rescue.
+He took me to one side from the push and told me what to do. I was a
+bit timid of his advice. I had just come out of jail, where I had been
+three days, and I knew that if the police "pinched" me again, I'd get
+good and "soaked." On the other hand, I couldn't show the white
+feather. I'd been over the hill, I was running full-fledged with the
+push, and it was up to me to deliver the goods. So I accepted Bob's
+advice, and he came along with me to see that I did it up brown.
+
+We took our position on K Street, on the corner, I think, of Fifth. It
+was early in the evening and the street was crowded. Bob studied the
+head-gear of every Chinaman that passed. I used to wonder how the
+road-kids all managed to wear "five-dollar Stetson stiff-rims," and
+now I knew. They got them, the way I was going to get mine, from the
+Chinese. I was nervous--there were so many people about; but Bob was
+cool as an iceberg. Several times, when I started forward toward a
+Chinaman, all nerved and keyed up, Bob dragged me back. He wanted me
+to get a good hat, and one that fitted. Now a hat came by that was the
+right size but not new; and, after a dozen impossible hats, along
+would come one that was new but not the right size. And when one did
+come by that was new and the right size, the rim was too large or not
+large enough. My, Bob was finicky. I was so wrought up that I'd have
+snatched any kind of a head-covering.
+
+At last came the hat, the one hat in Sacramento for me. I knew it was
+a winner as soon as I looked at it. I glanced at Bob. He sent a
+sweeping look-about for police, then nodded his head. I lifted the hat
+from the Chinaman's head and pulled it down on my own. It was a
+perfect fit. Then I started. I heard Bob crying out, and I caught a
+glimpse of him blocking the irate Mongolian and tripping him up. I ran
+on. I turned up the next corner, and around the next. This street was
+not so crowded as K, and I walked along in quietude, catching my
+breath and congratulating myself upon my hat and my get-away.
+
+And then, suddenly, around the corner at my back, came the bare-headed
+Chinaman. With him were a couple more Chinamen, and at their heels
+were half a dozen men and boys. I sprinted to the next corner, crossed
+the street, and rounded the following corner. I decided that I had
+surely played him out, and I dropped into a walk again. But around the
+corner at my heels came that persistent Mongolian. It was the old
+story of the hare and the tortoise. He could not run so fast as I, but
+he stayed with it, plodding along at a shambling and deceptive trot,
+and wasting much good breath in noisy imprecations. He called all
+Sacramento to witness the dishonor that had been done him, and a
+goodly portion of Sacramento heard and flocked at his heels. And I ran
+on like the hare, and ever that persistent Mongolian, with the
+increasing rabble, overhauled me. But finally, when a policeman had
+joined his following, I let out all my links. I twisted and turned,
+and I swear I ran at least twenty blocks on the straight away. And I
+never saw that Chinaman again. The hat was a dandy, a brand-new
+Stetson, just out of the shop, and it was the envy of the whole push.
+Furthermore, it was the symbol that I had delivered the goods. I wore
+it for over a year.
+
+Road-kids are nice little chaps--when you get them alone and they are
+telling you "how it happened"; but take my word for it, watch out for
+them when they run in pack. Then they are wolves, and like wolves they
+are capable of dragging down the strongest man. At such times they are
+not cowardly. They will fling themselves upon a man and hold on with
+every ounce of strength in their wiry bodies, till he is thrown and
+helpless. More than once have I seen them do it, and I know whereof I
+speak. Their motive is usually robbery. And watch out for the "strong
+arm." Every kid in the push I travelled with was expert at it. Even
+French Kid mastered it before he lost his legs.
+
+I have strong upon me now a vision of what I once saw in "The
+Willows." The Willows was a clump of trees in a waste piece of land
+near the railway depot and not more than five minutes walk from the
+heart of Sacramento. It is night-time and the scene is illumined by
+the thin light of stars. I see a husky laborer in the midst of a pack
+of road-kids. He is infuriated and cursing them, not a bit afraid,
+confident of his own strength. He weighs about one hundred and eighty
+pounds, and his muscles are hard; but he doesn't know what he is up
+against. The kids are snarling. It is not pretty. They make a rush
+from all sides, and he lashes out and whirls. Barber Kid is standing
+beside me. As the man whirls, Barber Kid leaps forward and does the
+trick. Into the man's back goes his knee; around the man's neck, from
+behind, passes his right hand, the bone of the wrist pressing against
+the jugular vein. Barber Kid throws his whole weight backward. It is a
+powerful leverage. Besides, the man's wind has been shut off. It is
+the strong arm.
+
+The man resists, but he is already practically helpless. The road-kids
+are upon him from every side, clinging to arms and legs and body, and
+like a wolf at the throat of a moose Barber Kid hangs on and drags
+backward. Over the man goes, and down under the heap. Barber Kid
+changes the position of his own body, but never lets go. While some of
+the kids are "going through" the victim, others are holding his legs
+so that he cannot kick and thresh about. They improve the opportunity
+by taking off the man's shoes. As for him, he has given in. He is
+beaten. Also, what of the strong arm at his throat, he is short of
+wind. He is making ugly choking noises, and the kids hurry. They
+really don't want to kill him. All is done. At a word all holds are
+released at once, and the kids scatter, one of them lugging the
+shoes--he knows where he can get half a dollar for them. The man sits
+up and looks about him, dazed and helpless. Even if he wanted to,
+barefooted pursuit in the darkness would be hopeless. I linger a
+moment and watch him. He is feeling at his throat, making dry, hawking
+noises, and jerking his head in a quaint way as though to assure
+himself that the neck is not dislocated. Then I slip away to join the
+push, and see that man no more--though I shall always see him, sitting
+there in the starlight, somewhat dazed, a bit frightened, greatly
+dishevelled, and making quaint jerking movements of head and neck.
+
+Drunken men are the especial prey of the road-kids. Robbing a drunken
+man they call "rolling a stiff"; and wherever they are, they are on
+the constant lookout for drunks. The drunk is their particular meat,
+as the fly is the particular meat of the spider. The rolling of a
+stiff is ofttimes an amusing sight, especially when the stiff is
+helpless and when interference is unlikely. At the first swoop the
+stiff's money and jewellery go. Then the kids sit around their victim
+in a sort of pow-wow. A kid generates a fancy for the stiff's necktie.
+Off it comes. Another kid is after underclothes. Off they come, and a
+knife quickly abbreviates arms and legs. Friendly hoboes may be called
+in to take the coat and trousers, which are too large for the kids.
+And in the end they depart, leaving beside the stiff the heap of their
+discarded rags.
+
+Another vision comes to me. It is a dark night. My push is coming
+along the sidewalk in the suburbs. Ahead of us, under an electric
+light, a man crosses the street diagonally. There is something
+tentative and desultory in his walk. The kids scent the game on the
+instant. The man is drunk. He blunders across the opposite sidewalk
+and is lost in the darkness as he takes a short-cut through a vacant
+lot. No hunting cry is raised, but the pack flings itself forward in
+quick pursuit. In the middle of the vacant lot it comes upon him. But
+what is this?--snarling and strange forms, small and dim and menacing,
+are between the pack and its prey. It is another pack of road-kids,
+and in the hostile pause we learn that it is their meat, that they
+have been trailing it a dozen blocks and more and that we are butting
+in. But it is the world primeval. These wolves are baby wolves. (As a
+matter of fact, I don't think one of them was over twelve or thirteen
+years of age. I met some of them afterward, and learned that they had
+just arrived that day over the hill, and that they hailed from Denver
+and Salt Lake City.) Our pack flings forward. The baby wolves squeal
+and screech and fight like little demons. All about the drunken man
+rages the struggle for the possession of him. Down he goes in the
+thick of it, and the combat rages over his body after the fashion of
+the Greeks and Trojans over the body and armor of a fallen hero. Amid
+cries and tears and wailings the baby wolves are dispossessed, and my
+pack rolls the stiff. But always I remember the poor stiff and his
+befuddled amazement at the abrupt eruption of battle in the vacant
+lot. I see him now, dim in the darkness, titubating in stupid wonder,
+good-naturedly essaying the role of peacemaker in that multitudinous
+scrap the significance of which he did not understand, and the really
+hurt expression on his face when he, unoffending he, was clutched at
+by many hands and dragged down in the thick of the press.
+
+"Bindle-stiffs" are favorite prey of the road-kids. A bindle-stiff is
+a working tramp. He takes his name from the roll of blankets he
+carries, which is known as a "bindle." Because he does work, a
+bindle-stiff is expected usually to have some small change about him,
+and it is after that small change that the road-kids go. The best
+hunting-ground for bindle-stiffs is in the sheds, barns, lumber-yards,
+railroad-yards, etc., on the edges of a city, and the time for hunting
+is the night, when the bindle-stiff seeks these places to roll up in
+his blankets and sleep.
+
+"Gay-cats" also come to grief at the hands of the road-kid. In more
+familiar parlance, gay-cats are short-horns, _chechaquos_, new chums,
+or tenderfeet. A gay-cat is a newcomer on The Road who is man-grown,
+or, at least, youth-grown. A boy on The Road, on the other hand, no
+matter how green he is, is never a gay-cat; he is a road-kid or a
+"punk," and if he travels with a "profesh," he is known possessively
+as a "prushun." I was never a prushun, for I did not take kindly to
+possession. I was first a road-kid and then a profesh. Because I
+started in young, I practically skipped my gay-cat apprenticeship. For
+a short period, during the time I was exchanging my 'Frisco Kid monica
+for that of Sailor Jack, I labored under the suspicion of being a
+gay-cat. But closer acquaintance on the part of those that suspected
+me quickly disabused their minds, and in a short time I acquired the
+unmistakable airs and ear-marks of the blowed-in-the-glass profesh.
+And be it known, here and now, that the profesh are the aristocracy of
+The Road. They are the lords and masters, the aggressive men, the
+primordial noblemen, the _blond beasts_ so beloved of Nietzsche.
+
+When I came back over the hill from Nevada, I found that some river
+pirate had stolen Dinny McCrea's boat. (A funny thing at this day is
+that I cannot remember what became of the skiff in which Nickey the
+Greek and I sailed from Oakland to Port Costa. I know that the
+constable didn't get it, and I know that it didn't go with us up the
+Sacramento River, and that is all I do know.) With the loss of Dinny
+McCrea's boat, I was pledged to The Road; and when I grew tired of
+Sacramento, I said good-by to the push (which, in its friendly way,
+tried to ditch me from a freight as I left town) and started on a
+_passear_ down the valley of the San Joaquin. The Road had gripped me
+and would not let me go; and later, when I had voyaged to sea and done
+one thing and another, I returned to The Road to make longer flights,
+to be a "comet" and a profesh, and to plump into the bath of sociology
+that wet me to the skin.
+
+
+
+
+TWO THOUSAND STIFFS
+
+
+A "stiff" is a tramp. It was once my fortune to travel a few weeks
+with a "push" that numbered two thousand. This was known as "Kelly's
+Army." Across the wild and woolly West, clear from California, General
+Kelly and his heroes had captured trains; but they fell down when they
+crossed the Missouri and went up against the effete East. The East
+hadn't the slightest intention of giving free transportation to two
+thousand hoboes. Kelly's Army lay helplessly for some time at Council
+Bluffs. The day I joined it, made desperate by delay, it marched out
+to capture a train.
+
+It was quite an imposing sight. General Kelly sat a magnificent black
+charger, and with waving banners, to the martial music of fife and
+drum corps, company by company, in two divisions, his two thousand
+stiffs countermarched before him and hit the wagon-road to the little
+burg of Weston, seven miles away. Being the latest recruit, I was in
+the last company, of the last regiment, of the Second Division, and,
+furthermore, in the last rank of the rear-guard. The army went into
+camp at Weston beside the railroad track--beside the tracks, rather,
+for two roads went through: the Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul, and
+the Rock Island.
+
+Our intention was to take the first train out, but the railroad
+officials "coppered" our play--and won. There was no first train. They
+tied up the two lines and stopped running trains. In the meantime,
+while we lay by the dead tracks, the good people of Omaha and Council
+Bluffs were bestirring themselves. Preparations were making to form a
+mob, capture a train in Council Bluffs, run it down to us, and make us
+a present of it. The railroad officials coppered that play, too. They
+didn't wait for the mob. Early in the morning of the second day, an
+engine, with a single private car attached, arrived at the station and
+side-tracked. At this sign that life had renewed in the dead roads,
+the whole army lined up beside the track.
+
+But never did life renew so monstrously on a dead railroad as it did
+on those two roads. From the west came the whistle of a locomotive.
+It was coming in our direction, bound east. We were bound east. A stir
+of preparation ran down our ranks. The whistle tooted fast and
+furiously, and the train thundered at top speed. The hobo didn't live
+that could have boarded it. Another locomotive whistled, and another
+train came through at top speed, and another, and another, train after
+train, train after train, till toward the last the trains were
+composed of passenger coaches, box-cars, flat-cars, dead engines,
+cabooses, mail-cars, wrecking appliances, and all the riff-raff of
+worn-out and abandoned rolling-stock that collects in the yards of
+great railways. When the yards at Council Bluffs had been completely
+cleaned, the private car and engine went east, and the tracks died for
+keeps.
+
+That day went by, and the next, and nothing moved, and in the
+meantime, pelted by sleet, and rain, and hail, the two thousand hoboes
+lay beside the track. But that night the good people of Council Bluffs
+went the railroad officials one better. A mob formed in Council
+Bluffs, crossed the river to Omaha, and there joined with another mob
+in a raid on the Union Pacific yards. First they captured an engine,
+next they knocked a train together, and then the united mobs piled
+aboard, crossed the Missouri, and ran down the Rock Island right of
+way to turn the train over to us. The railway officials tried to
+copper this play, but fell down, to the mortal terror of the section
+boss and one member of the section gang at Weston. This pair, under
+secret telegraphic orders, tried to wreck our train-load of
+sympathizers by tearing up the track. It happened that we were
+suspicious and had our patrols out. Caught red-handed at
+train-wrecking, and surrounded by twenty hundred infuriated hoboes,
+that section-gang boss and assistant prepared to meet death. I don't
+remember what saved them, unless it was the arrival of the train.
+
+It was our turn to fall down, and we did, hard. In their haste, the
+two mobs had neglected to make up a sufficiently long train. There
+wasn't room for two thousand hoboes to ride. So the mobs and the
+hoboes had a talkfest, fraternized, sang songs, and parted, the mobs
+going back on their captured train to Omaha, the hoboes pulling out
+next morning on a hundred-and-forty-mile march to Des Moines. It was
+not until Kelly's Army crossed the Missouri that it began to walk,
+and after that it never rode again. It cost the railroads slathers of
+money, but they were acting on principle, and they won.
+
+Underwood, Leola, Menden, Avoca, Walnut, Marno, Atlantic, Wyoto,
+Anita, Adair, Adam, Casey, Stuart, Dexter, Carlham, De Soto, Van
+Meter, Booneville, Commerce, Valley Junction--how the names of the
+towns come back to me as I con the map and trace our route through the
+fat Iowa country! And the hospitable Iowa farmer-folk! They turned out
+with their wagons and carried our baggage; gave us hot lunches at noon
+by the wayside; mayors of comfortable little towns made speeches of
+welcome and hastened us on our way; deputations of little girls and
+maidens came out to meet us, and the good citizens turned out by
+hundreds, locked arms, and marched with us down their main streets. It
+was circus day when we came to town, and every day was circus day, for
+there were many towns.
+
+In the evenings our camps were invaded by whole populations. Every
+company had its campfire, and around each fire something was doing.
+The cooks in my company, Company L, were song-and-dance artists and
+contributed most of our entertainment. In another part of the
+encampment the glee club would be singing--one of its star voices was
+the "Dentist," drawn from Company L, and we were mighty proud of him.
+Also, he pulled teeth for the whole army, and, since the extractions
+usually occurred at meal-time, our digestions were stimulated by
+variety of incident. The Dentist had no anaesthetics, but two or three
+of us were always on tap to volunteer to hold down the patient. In
+addition to the stunts of the companies and the glee club, church
+services were usually held, local preachers officiating, and always
+there was a great making of political speeches. All these things ran
+neck and neck; it was a full-blown Midway. A lot of talent can be dug
+out of two thousand hoboes. I remember we had a picked baseball nine,
+and on Sundays we made a practice of putting it all over the local
+nines. Sometimes we did it twice on Sundays.
+
+Last year, while on a lecturing trip, I rode into Des Moines in a
+Pullman--I don't mean a "side-door Pullman," but the real thing. On
+the outskirts of the city I saw the old stove-works, and my heart
+leaped. It was there, at the stove-works, a dozen years before, that
+the Army lay down and swore a mighty oath that its feet were sore and
+that it would walk no more. We took possession of the stove-works and
+told Des Moines that we had come to stay--that we'd walked in, but
+we'd be blessed if we'd walk out. Des Moines was hospitable, but this
+was too much of a good thing. Do a little mental arithmetic, gentle
+reader. Two thousand hoboes, eating three square meals, make six
+thousand meals per day, forty-two thousand meals per week, or one
+hundred and sixty-eight thousand meals per shortest month in the
+calendar. That's going some. We had no money. It was up to Des Moines.
+
+Des Moines was desperate. We lay in camp, made political speeches,
+held sacred concerts, pulled teeth, played baseball and seven-up, and
+ate our six thousand meals per day, and Des Moines paid for it. Des
+Moines pleaded with the railroads, but they were obdurate; they had
+said we shouldn't ride, and that settled it. To permit us to ride
+would be to establish a precedent, and there weren't going to be any
+precedents. And still we went on eating. That was the terrifying
+factor in the situation. We were bound for Washington, and Des Moines
+would have had to float municipal bonds to pay all our railroad fares,
+even at special rates, and if we remained much longer, she'd have to
+float bonds anyway to feed us.
+
+Then some local genius solved the problem. We wouldn't walk. Very
+good. We should ride. From Des Moines to Keokuk on the Mississippi
+flowed the Des Moines River. This particular stretch of river was
+three hundred miles long. We could ride on it, said the local genius;
+and, once equipped with floating stock, we could ride on down the
+Mississippi to the Ohio, and thence up the Ohio, winding up with a
+short portage over the mountains to Washington.
+
+Des Moines took up a subscription. Public-spirited citizens
+contributed several thousand dollars. Lumber, rope, nails, and cotton
+for calking were bought in large quantities, and on the banks of the
+Des Moines was inaugurated a tremendous era of shipbuilding. Now the
+Des Moines is a picayune stream, unduly dignified by the appellation
+of "river." In our spacious western land it would be called a "creek."
+The oldest inhabitants shook their heads and said we couldn't make it,
+that there wasn't enough water to float us. Des Moines didn't care,
+so long as it got rid of us, and we were such well-fed optimists that
+we didn't care either.
+
+On Wednesday, May 9, 1894, we got under way and started on our
+colossal picnic. Des Moines had got off pretty easily, and she
+certainly owes a statue in bronze to the local genius who got her out
+of her difficulty. True, Des Moines had to pay for our boats; we had
+eaten sixty-six thousand meals at the stove-works; and we took twelve
+thousand additional meals along with us in our commissary--as a
+precaution against famine in the wilds; but then, think what it would
+have meant if we had remained at Des Moines eleven months instead of
+eleven days. Also, when we departed, we promised Des Moines we'd come
+back if the river failed to float us.
+
+It was all very well having twelve thousand meals in the commissary,
+and no doubt the commissary "ducks" enjoyed them; for the commissary
+promptly got lost, and my boat, for one, never saw it again. The
+company formation was hopelessly broken up during the river-trip. In
+any camp of men there will always be found a certain percentage of
+shirks, of helpless, of just ordinary, and of hustlers. There were ten
+men in my boat, and they were the cream of Company L. Every man was a
+hustler. For two reasons I was included in the ten. First, I was as
+good a hustler as ever "threw his feet," and next, I was "Sailor
+Jack." I understood boats and boating. The ten of us forgot the
+remaining forty men of Company L, and by the time we had missed one
+meal we promptly forgot the commissary. We were independent. We went
+down the river "on our own," hustling our "chewin's," beating every
+boat in the fleet, and, alas that I must say it, sometimes taking
+possession of the stores the farmer-folk had collected for the Army.
+
+For a good part of the three hundred miles we were from half a day to
+a day or so in advance of the Army. We had managed to get hold of
+several American flags. When we approached a small town, or when we
+saw a group of farmers gathered on the bank, we ran up our flags,
+called ourselves the "advance boat," and demanded to know what
+provisions had been collected for the Army. We represented the Army,
+of course, and the provisions were turned over to us. But there
+wasn't anything small about us. We never took more than we could get
+away with. But we did take the cream of everything. For instance, if
+some philanthropic farmer had donated several dollars' worth of
+tobacco, we took it. So, also, we took butter and sugar, coffee and
+canned goods; but when the stores consisted of sacks of beans and
+flour, or two or three slaughtered steers, we resolutely refrained and
+went our way, leaving orders to turn such provisions over to the
+commissary boats whose business was to follow behind us.
+
+My, but the ten of us did live on the fat of the land! For a long time
+General Kelly vainly tried to head us off. He sent two rowers, in a
+light, round-bottomed boat, to overtake us and put a stop to our
+piratical careers. They overtook us all right, but they were two and
+we were ten. They were empowered by General Kelly to make us
+prisoners, and they told us so. When we expressed disinclination to
+become prisoners, they hurried ahead to the next town to invoke the
+aid of the authorities. We went ashore immediately and cooked an early
+supper; and under the cloak of darkness we ran by the town and its
+authorities.
+
+I kept a diary on part of the trip, and as I read it over now I note
+one persistently recurring phrase, namely, "Living fine." We did live
+fine. We even disdained to use coffee boiled in water. We made our
+coffee out of milk, calling the wonderful beverage, if I remember
+rightly, "pale Vienna."
+
+While we were ahead, skimming the cream, and while the commissary was
+lost far behind, the main Army, coming along in the middle, starved.
+This was hard on the Army, I'll allow; but then, the ten of us were
+individualists. We had initiative and enterprise. We ardently believed
+that the grub was to the man who got there first, the pale Vienna to
+the strong. On one stretch the Army went forty-eight hours without
+grub; and then it arrived at a small village of some three hundred
+inhabitants, the name of which I do not remember, though I think it
+was Red Rock. This town, following the practice of all towns through
+which the Army passed, had appointed a committee of safety. Counting
+five to a family, Red Rock consisted of sixty households. Her
+committee of safety was scared stiff by the eruption of two thousand
+hungry hoboes who lined their boats two and three deep along the
+river bank. General Kelly was a fair man. He had no intention of
+working a hardship on the village. He did not expect sixty households
+to furnish two thousand meals. Besides, the Army had its
+treasure-chest.
+
+But the committee of safety lost its head. "No encouragement to the
+invader" was its programme, and when General Kelly wanted to buy food,
+the committee turned him down. It had nothing to sell; General Kelly's
+money was "no good" in their burg. And then General Kelly went into
+action. The bugles blew. The Army left the boats and on top of the
+bank formed in battle array. The committee was there to see. General
+Kelly's speech was brief.
+
+"Boys," he said, "when did you eat last?"
+
+"Day before yesterday," they shouted.
+
+"Are you hungry?"
+
+A mighty affirmation from two thousand throats shook the atmosphere.
+Then General Kelly turned to the committee of safety:--
+
+"You see, gentlemen, the situation. My men have eaten nothing in
+forty-eight hours. If I turn them loose upon your town, I'll not be
+responsible for what happens. They are desperate. I offered to buy
+food for them, but you refused to sell. I now withdraw my offer.
+Instead, I shall demand. I give you five minutes to decide. Either
+kill me six steers and give me four thousand rations, or I turn the
+men loose. Five minutes, gentlemen."
+
+The terrified committee of safety looked at the two thousand hungry
+hoboes and collapsed. It didn't wait the five minutes. It wasn't going
+to take any chances. The killing of the steers and the collecting of
+the requisition began forthwith, and the Army dined.
+
+And still the ten graceless individualists soared along ahead and
+gathered in everything in sight. But General Kelly fixed us. He sent
+horsemen down each bank, warning farmers and townspeople against us.
+They did their work thoroughly, all right. The erstwhile hospitable
+farmers met us with the icy mit. Also, they summoned the constables
+when we tied up to the bank, and loosed the dogs. I know. Two of the
+latter caught me with a barbed-wire fence between me and the river. I
+was carrying two buckets of milk for the pale Vienna. I didn't damage
+the fence any; but we drank plebian coffee boiled with vulgar water,
+and it was up to me to throw my feet for another pair of trousers. I
+wonder, gentle reader, if you ever essayed hastily to climb a
+barbed-wire fence with a bucket of milk in each hand. Ever since that
+day I have had a prejudice against barbed wire, and I have gathered
+statistics on the subject.
+
+Unable to make an honest living so long as General Kelly kept his two
+horsemen ahead of us, we returned to the Army and raised a revolution.
+It was a small affair, but it devastated Company L of the Second
+Division. The captain of Company L refused to recognize us; said we
+were deserters, and traitors, and scalawags; and when he drew rations
+for Company L from the commissary, he wouldn't give us any. That
+captain didn't appreciate us, or he wouldn't have refused us grub.
+Promptly we intrigued with the first lieutenant. He joined us with the
+ten men in his boat, and in return we elected him captain of Company
+M. The captain of Company L raised a roar. Down upon us came General
+Kelly, Colonel Speed, and Colonel Baker. The twenty of us stood firm,
+and our revolution was ratified.
+
+But we never bothered with the commissary. Our hustlers drew better
+rations from the farmers. Our new captain, however, doubted us. He
+never knew when he'd see the ten of us again, once we got under way in
+the morning, so he called in a blacksmith to clinch his captaincy. In
+the stern of our boat, one on each side, were driven two heavy
+eye-bolts of iron. Correspondingly, on the bow of his boat, were
+fastened two huge iron hooks. The boats were brought together, end on,
+the hooks dropped into the eye-bolts, and there we were, hard and
+fast. We couldn't lose that captain. But we were irrepressible. Out of
+our very manacles we wrought an invincible device that enabled us to
+put it all over every other boat in the fleet.
+
+Like all great inventions, this one of ours was accidental. We
+discovered it the first time we ran on a snag in a bit of a rapid. The
+head-boat hung up and anchored, and the tail-boat swung around in the
+current, pivoting the head-boat on the snag. I was at the stern of the
+tail-boat, steering. In vain we tried to shove off. Then I ordered the
+men from the head-boat into the tail-boat. Immediately the head-boat
+floated clear, and its men returned into it. After that, snags, reefs,
+shoals, and bars had no terrors for us. The instant the head-boat
+struck, the men in it leaped into the tail-boat. Of course, the
+head-boat floated over the obstruction and the tail-boat then struck.
+Like automatons, the twenty men now in the tail-boat leaped into the
+head-boat, and the tail-boat floated past.
+
+The boats used by the Army were all alike, made by the mile and sawed
+off. They were flat-boats, and their lines were rectangles. Each boat
+was six feet wide, ten feet long, and a foot and a half deep. Thus,
+when our two boats were hooked together, I sat at the stern steering a
+craft twenty feet long, containing twenty husky hoboes who "spelled"
+each other at the oars and paddles, and loaded with blankets, cooking
+outfit, and our own private commissary.
+
+Still we caused General Kelly trouble. He had called in his horsemen,
+and substituted three police-boats that travelled in the van and
+allowed no boats to pass them. The craft containing Company M crowded
+the police-boats hard. We could have passed them easily, but it was
+against the rules. So we kept a respectful distance astern and waited.
+Ahead we knew was virgin farming country, unbegged and generous; but
+we waited. White water was all we needed, and when we rounded a bend
+and a rapid showed up we knew what would happen. Smash! Police-boat
+number one goes on a boulder and hangs up. Bang! Police-boat number
+two follows suit. Whop! Police-boat number three encounters the common
+fate of all. Of course our boat does the same things; but one, two,
+the men are out of the head-boat and into the tail-boat; one, two,
+they are out of the tail-boat and into the head-boat; and one, two,
+the men who belong in the tail-boat are back in it and we are dashing
+on. "Stop! you blankety-blank-blanks!" shriek the police-boats. "How
+can we?--blank the blankety-blank river, anyway!" we wail plaintively
+as we surge past, caught in that remorseless current that sweeps us on
+out of sight and into the hospitable farmer-country that replenishes
+our private commissary with the cream of its contributions. Again we
+drink pale Vienna and realize that the grub is to the man who gets
+there.
+
+Poor General Kelly! He devised another scheme. The whole fleet
+started ahead of us. Company M of the Second Division started in its
+proper place in the line, which was last. And it took us only one day
+to put the "kibosh" on that particular scheme. Twenty-five miles of
+bad water lay before us--all rapids, shoals, bars, and boulders. It
+was over that stretch of water that the oldest inhabitants of Des
+Moines had shaken their heads. Nearly two hundred boats entered the
+bad water ahead of us, and they piled up in the most astounding
+manner. We went through that stranded fleet like hemlock through the
+fire. There was no avoiding the boulders, bars, and snags except by
+getting out on the bank. We didn't avoid them. We went right over
+them, one, two, one, two, head-boat, tail-boat, head-boat, tail-boat,
+all hands back and forth and back again. We camped that night alone,
+and loafed in camp all of next day while the Army patched and repaired
+its wrecked boats and straggled up to us.
+
+There was no stopping our cussedness. We rigged up a mast, piled on
+the canvas (blankets), and travelled short hours while the Army worked
+over-time to keep us in sight. Then General Kelly had recourse to
+diplomacy. No boat could touch us in the straight-away. Without
+discussion, we were the hottest bunch that ever came down the Des
+Moines. The ban of the police-boats was lifted. Colonel Speed was put
+aboard, and with this distinguished officer we had the honor of
+arriving first at Keokuk on the Mississippi. And right here I want to
+say to General Kelly and Colonel Speed that here's my hand. You were
+heroes, both of you, and you were men. And I'm sorry for at least ten
+per cent of the trouble that was given you by the head-boat of Company
+M.
+
+At Keokuk the whole fleet was lashed together in a huge raft, and,
+after being wind-bound a day, a steamboat took us in tow down the
+Mississippi to Quincy, Illinois, where we camped across the river on
+Goose Island. Here the raft idea was abandoned, the boats being joined
+together in groups of four and decked over. Somebody told me that
+Quincy was the richest town of its size in the United States. When I
+heard this, I was immediately overcome by an irresistible impulse to
+throw my feet. No "blowed-in-the-glass profesh" could possibly pass up
+such a promising burg. I crossed the river to Quincy in a small
+dug-out; but I came back in a large riverboat, down to the gunwales
+with the results of my thrown feet. Of course I kept all the money I
+had collected, though I paid the boat-hire; also I took my pick of the
+underwear, socks, cast-off clothes, shirts, "kicks," and "sky-pieces";
+and when Company M had taken all it wanted there was still a
+respectable heap that was turned over to Company L. Alas, I was young
+and prodigal in those days! I told a thousand "stories" to the good
+people of Quincy, and every story was "good"; but since I have come to
+write for the magazines I have often regretted the wealth of story,
+the fecundity of fiction, I lavished that day in Quincy, Illinois.
+
+It was at Hannibal, Missouri, that the ten invincibles went to pieces.
+It was not planned. We just naturally flew apart. The Boiler-Maker and
+I deserted secretly. On the same day Scotty and Davy made a swift
+sneak for the Illinois shore; also McAvoy and Fish achieved their
+get-away. This accounts for six of the ten; what became of the
+remaining four I do not know. As a sample of life on The Road, I make
+the following quotation from my diary of the several days following my
+desertion.
+
+"Friday, May 25th. Boiler-Maker and I left the camp on the island. We
+went ashore on the Illinois side in a skiff and walked six miles on
+the C.B. & Q. to Fell Creek. We had gone six miles out of our way, but
+we got on a hand-car and rode six miles to Hull's, on the Wabash.
+While there, we met McAvoy, Fish, Scotty, and Davy, who had also
+pulled out from the Army.
+
+"Saturday, May 26th. At 2.11 A.M. we caught the Cannonball as she
+slowed up at the crossing. Scotty and Davy were ditched. The four of
+us were ditched at the Bluffs, forty miles farther on. In the
+afternoon Fish and McAvoy caught a freight while Boiler-Maker and I
+were away getting something to eat.
+
+"Sunday, May 27th. At 3.21 A.M. we caught the Cannonball and found
+Scotty and Davy on the blind. We were all ditched at daylight at
+Jacksonville. The C. & A. runs through here, and we're going to take
+that. Boiler-Maker went off, but didn't return. Guess he caught a
+freight.
+
+"Monday, May 28th. Boiler-Maker didn't show up. Scotty and Davy went
+off to sleep somewhere, and didn't get back in time to catch the K.C.
+passenger at 3.30 A.M. I caught her and rode her till after sunrise to
+Masson City, 25,000 inhabitants. Caught a cattle train and rode all
+night.
+
+"Tuesday, May 29th. Arrived in Chicago at 7 A.M...."
+
+ * * * * *
+
+And years afterward, in China, I had the grief of learning that the
+device we employed to navigate the rapids of the Des Moines--the
+one-two-one-two, head-boat-tail-boat proposition--was not originated
+by us. I learned that the Chinese river-boatmen had for thousands of
+years used a similar device to negotiate "bad water." It is a good
+stunt all right, even if we don't get the credit. It answers Dr.
+Jordan's test of truth: "Will it work? Will you trust your life to
+it?"
+
+
+
+
+BULLS
+
+
+If the tramp were suddenly to pass away from the United States,
+widespread misery for many families would follow. The tramp enables
+thousands of men to earn honest livings, educate their children, and
+bring them up God-fearing and industrious. I know. At one time my
+father was a constable and hunted tramps for a living. The community
+paid him so much per head for all the tramps he could catch, and also,
+I believe, he got mileage fees. Ways and means was always a pressing
+problem in our household, and the amount of meat on the table, the new
+pair of shoes, the day's outing, or the text-book for school, were
+dependent upon my father's luck in the chase. Well I remember the
+suppressed eagerness and the suspense with which I waited to learn
+each morning what the results of his past night's toil had been--how
+many tramps he had gathered in and what the chances were for
+convicting them. And so it was, when later, as a tramp, I succeeded in
+eluding some predatory constable, I could not but feel sorry for the
+little boys and girls at home in that constable's house; it seemed to
+me in a way that I was defrauding those little boys and girls of some
+of the good things of life.
+
+But it's all in the game. The hobo defies society, and society's
+watch-dogs make a living out of him. Some hoboes like to be caught by
+the watch-dogs--especially in winter-time. Of course, such hoboes
+select communities where the jails are "good," wherein no work is
+performed and the food is substantial. Also, there have been, and most
+probably still are, constables who divide their fees with the hoboes
+they arrest. Such a constable does not have to hunt. He whistles, and
+the game comes right up to his hand. It is surprising, the money that
+is made out of stone-broke tramps. All through the South--at least
+when I was hoboing--are convict camps and plantations, where the time
+of convicted hoboes is bought by the farmers, and where the hoboes
+simply have to work. Then there are places like the quarries at
+Rutland, Vermont, where the hobo is exploited, the unearned energy in
+his body, which he has accumulated by "battering on the drag" or
+"slamming gates," being extracted for the benefit of that particular
+community.
+
+Now I don't know anything about the quarries at Rutland, Vermont. I'm
+very glad that I don't, when I remember how near I was to getting into
+them. Tramps pass the word along, and I first heard of those quarries
+when I was in Indiana. But when I got into New England, I heard of
+them continually, and always with danger-signals flying. "They want
+men in the quarries," the passing hoboes said; "and they never give a
+'stiff' less than ninety days." By the time I got into New Hampshire I
+was pretty well keyed up over those quarries, and I fought shy of
+railroad cops, "bulls," and constables as I never had before.
+
+One evening I went down to the railroad yards at Concord and found a
+freight train made up and ready to start. I located an empty box-car,
+slid open the side-door, and climbed in. It was my hope to win across
+to White River by morning; that would bring me into Vermont and not
+more than a thousand miles from Rutland. But after that, as I worked
+north, the distance between me and the point of danger would begin to
+increase. In the car I found a "gay-cat," who displayed unusual
+trepidation at my entrance. He took me for a "shack" (brakeman), and
+when he learned I was only a stiff, he began talking about the
+quarries at Rutland as the cause of the fright I had given him. He was
+a young country fellow, and had beaten his way only over local
+stretches of road.
+
+The freight got under way, and we lay down in one end of the box-car
+and went to sleep. Two or three hours afterward, at a stop, I was
+awakened by the noise of the right-hand door being softly slid open.
+The gay-cat slept on. I made no movement, though I veiled my eyes with
+my lashes to a little slit through which I could see out. A lantern
+was thrust in through the doorway, followed by the head of a shack. He
+discovered us, and looked at us for a moment. I was prepared for a
+violent expression on his part, or the customary "Hit the grit, you
+son of a toad!" Instead of this he cautiously withdrew the lantern and
+very, very softly slid the door to. This struck me as eminently
+unusual and suspicious. I listened, and softly I heard the hasp drop
+into place. The door was latched on the outside. We could not open it
+from the inside. One way of sudden exit from that car was blocked. It
+would never do. I waited a few seconds, then crept to the left-hand
+door and tried it. It was not yet latched. I opened it, dropped to the
+ground, and closed it behind me. Then I passed across the bumpers to
+the other side of the train. I opened the door the shack had latched,
+climbed in, and closed it behind me. Both exits were available again.
+The gay-cat was still asleep.
+
+The train got under way. It came to the next stop. I heard footsteps
+in the gravel. Then the left-hand door was thrown open noisily. The
+gay-cat awoke, I made believe to awake; and we sat up and stared at
+the shack and his lantern. He didn't waste any time getting down to
+business.
+
+"I want three dollars," he said.
+
+We got on our feet and came nearer to him to confer. We expressed an
+absolute and devoted willingness to give him three dollars, but
+explained our wretched luck that compelled our desire to remain
+unsatisfied. The shack was incredulous. He dickered with us. He would
+compromise for two dollars. We regretted our condition of poverty. He
+said uncomplimentary things, called us sons of toads, and damned us
+from hell to breakfast. Then he threatened. He explained that if we
+didn't dig up, he'd lock us in and carry us on to White River and turn
+us over to the authorities. He also explained all about the quarries
+at Rutland.
+
+Now that shack thought he had us dead to rights. Was not he guarding
+the one door, and had he not himself latched the opposite door but a
+few minutes before? When he began talking about quarries, the
+frightened gay-cat started to sidle across to the other door. The
+shack laughed loud and long. "Don't be in a hurry," he said; "I locked
+that door on the outside at the last stop." So implicitly did he
+believe the door to be locked that his words carried conviction. The
+gay-cat believed and was in despair.
+
+The shack delivered his ultimatum. Either we should dig up two
+dollars, or he would lock us in and turn us over to the constable at
+White River--and that meant ninety days and the quarries. Now, gentle
+reader, just suppose that the other door had been locked. Behold the
+precariousness of human life. For lack of a dollar, I'd have gone to
+the quarries and served three months as a convict slave. So would the
+gay-cat. Count me out, for I was hopeless; but consider the gay-cat.
+He might have come out, after those ninety days, pledged to a life of
+crime. And later he might have broken your skull, even your skull,
+with a blackjack in an endeavor to take possession of the money on
+your person--and if not your skull, then some other poor and
+unoffending creature's skull.
+
+But the door was unlocked, and I alone knew it. The gay-cat and I
+begged for mercy. I joined in the pleading and wailing out of sheer
+cussedness, I suppose. But I did my best. I told a "story" that would
+have melted the heart of any mug; but it didn't melt the heart of that
+sordid money-grasper of a shack. When he became convinced that we
+didn't have any money, he slid the door shut and latched it, then
+lingered a moment on the chance that we had fooled him and that we
+would now offer him the two dollars.
+
+Then it was that I let out a few links. I called him a son of a toad.
+I called him all the other things he had called me. And then I called
+him a few additional things. I came from the West, where men knew how
+to swear, and I wasn't going to let any mangy shack on a measly New
+England "jerk" put it over me in vividness and vigor of language. At
+first the shack tried to laugh it down. Then he made the mistake of
+attempting to reply. I let out a few more links, and I cut him to the
+raw and therein rubbed winged and flaming epithets. Nor was my fine
+frenzy all whim and literary; I was indignant at this vile creature,
+who, in default of a dollar, would consign me to three months of
+slavery. Furthermore, I had a sneaking idea that he got a "drag" out
+of the constable fees.
+
+But I fixed him. I lacerated his feelings and pride several dollars'
+worth. He tried to scare me by threatening to come in after me and
+kick the stuffing out of me. In return, I promised to kick him in the
+face while he was climbing in. The advantage of position was with me,
+and he saw it. So he kept the door shut and called for help from the
+rest of the train-crew. I could hear them answering and crunching
+through the gravel to him. And all the time the other door was
+unlatched, and they didn't know it; and in the meantime the gay-cat
+was ready to die with fear.
+
+Oh, I was a hero--with my line of retreat straight behind me. I
+slanged the shack and his mates till they threw the door open and I
+could see their infuriated faces in the shine of the lanterns. It was
+all very simple to them. They had us cornered in the car, and they
+were going to come in and man-handle us. They started. I didn't kick
+anybody in the face. I jerked the opposite door open, and the gay-cat
+and I went out. The train-crew took after us.
+
+We went over--if I remember correctly--a stone fence. But I have no
+doubts of recollection about where we found ourselves. In the darkness
+I promptly fell over a grave-stone. The gay-cat sprawled over another.
+And then we got the chase of our lives through that graveyard. The
+ghosts must have thought we were going some. So did the train-crew,
+for when we emerged from the graveyard and plunged across a road into
+a dark wood, the shacks gave up the pursuit and went back to their
+train. A little later that night the gay-cat and I found ourselves at
+the well of a farmhouse. We were after a drink of water, but we
+noticed a small rope that ran down one side of the well. We hauled it
+up and found on the end of it a gallon-can of cream. And that is as
+near as I got to the quarries of Rutland, Vermont.
+
+When hoboes pass the word along, concerning a town, that "the bulls is
+horstile," avoid that town, or, if you must, go through softly. There
+are some towns that one must always go through softly. Such a town was
+Cheyenne, on the Union Pacific. It had a national reputation for being
+"horstile,"--and it was all due to the efforts of one Jeff Carr (if I
+remember his name aright). Jeff Carr could size up the "front" of a
+hobo on the instant. He never entered into discussion. In the one
+moment he sized up the hobo, and in the next he struck out with both
+fists, a club, or anything else he had handy. After he had man-handled
+the hobo, he started him out of town with a promise of worse if he
+ever saw him again. Jeff Carr knew the game. North, south, east, and
+west to the uttermost confines of the United States (Canada and Mexico
+included), the man-handled hoboes carried the word that Cheyenne was
+"horstile." Fortunately, I never encountered Jeff Carr. I passed
+through Cheyenne in a blizzard. There were eighty-four hoboes with me
+at the time. The strength of numbers made us pretty nonchalant on
+most things, but not on Jeff Carr. The connotation of "Jeff Carr"
+stunned our imagination, numbed our virility, and the whole gang was
+mortally scared of meeting him.
+
+It rarely pays to stop and enter into explanations with bulls when
+they look "horstile." A swift get-away is the thing to do. It took me
+some time to learn this; but the finishing touch was put upon me by a
+bull in New York City. Ever since that time it has been an automatic
+process with me to make a run for it when I see a bull reaching for
+me. This automatic process has become a mainspring of conduct in me,
+wound up and ready for instant release. I shall never get over it.
+Should I be eighty years old, hobbling along the street on crutches,
+and should a policeman suddenly reach out for me, I know I'd drop the
+crutches and run like a deer.
+
+The finishing touch to my education in bulls was received on a hot
+summer afternoon in New York City. It was during a week of scorching
+weather. I had got into the habit of throwing my feet in the morning,
+and of spending the afternoon in the little park that is hard by
+Newspaper Row and the City Hall. It was near there that I could buy
+from pushcart men current books (that had been injured in the making
+or binding) for a few cents each. Then, right in the park itself, were
+little booths where one could buy glorious, ice-cold, sterilized milk
+and buttermilk at a penny a glass. Every afternoon I sat on a bench
+and read, and went on a milk debauch. I got away with from five to ten
+glasses each afternoon. It was dreadfully hot weather.
+
+So here I was, a meek and studious milk-drinking hobo, and behold what
+I got for it. One afternoon I arrived at the park, a fresh
+book-purchase under my arm and a tremendous buttermilk thirst under my
+shirt. In the middle of the street, in front of the City Hall, I
+noticed, as I came along heading for the buttermilk booth, that a
+crowd had formed. It was right where I was crossing the street, so I
+stopped to see the cause of the collection of curious men. At first I
+could see nothing. Then, from the sounds I heard and from a glimpse I
+caught, I knew that it was a bunch of gamins playing pee-wee. Now
+pee-wee is not permitted in the streets of New York. I didn't know
+that, but I learned pretty lively. I had paused possibly thirty
+seconds, in which time I had learned the cause of the crowd, when I
+heard a gamin yell "Bull!" The gamins knew their business. They ran. I
+didn't.
+
+The crowd broke up immediately and started for the sidewalk on both
+sides of the street. I started for the sidewalk on the park-side.
+There must have been fifty men, who had been in the original crowd,
+who were heading in the same direction. We were loosely strung out. I
+noticed the bull, a strapping policeman in a gray suit. He was coming
+along the middle of the street, without haste, merely sauntering. I
+noticed casually that he changed his course, and was heading obliquely
+for the same sidewalk that I was heading for directly. He sauntered
+along, threading the strung-out crowd, and I noticed that his course
+and mine would cross each other. I was so innocent of wrong-doing
+that, in spite of my education in bulls and their ways, I apprehended
+nothing. I never dreamed that bull was after me. Out of my respect for
+the law I was actually all ready to pause the next moment and let him
+cross in front of me. The pause came all right, but it was not of my
+volition; also it was a backward pause. Without warning, that bull had
+suddenly launched out at me on the chest with both hands. At the same
+moment, verbally, he cast the bar sinister on my genealogy.
+
+All my free American blood boiled. All my liberty-loving ancestors
+clamored in me. "What do you mean?" I demanded. You see, I wanted an
+explanation. And I got it. Bang! His club came down on top of my head,
+and I was reeling backward like a drunken man, the curious faces of
+the onlookers billowing up and down like the waves of the sea, my
+precious book falling from under my arm into the dirt, the bull
+advancing with the club ready for another blow. And in that dizzy
+moment I had a vision. I saw that club descending many times upon my
+head; I saw myself, bloody and battered and hard-looking, in a
+police-court; I heard a charge of disorderly conduct, profane
+language, resisting an officer, and a few other things, read by a
+clerk; and I saw myself across in Blackwell's Island. Oh, I knew the
+game. I lost all interest in explanations. I didn't stop to pick up my
+precious, unread book. I turned and ran. I was pretty sick, but I
+ran. And run I shall, to my dying day, whenever a bull begins to
+explain with a club.
+
+Why, years after my tramping days, when I was a student in the
+University of California, one night I went to the circus. After the
+show and the concert I lingered on to watch the working of the
+transportation machinery of a great circus. The circus was leaving
+that night. By a bonfire I came upon a bunch of small boys. There were
+about twenty of them, and as they talked with one another I learned
+that they were going to run away with the circus. Now the circus-men
+didn't want to be bothered with this mess of urchins, and a telephone
+to police headquarters had "coppered" the play. A squad of ten
+policemen had been despatched to the scene to arrest the small boys
+for violating the nine o'clock curfew ordinance. The policemen
+surrounded the bonfire, and crept up close to it in the darkness. At
+the signal, they made a rush, each policeman grabbing at the
+youngsters as he would grab into a basket of squirming eels.
+
+Now I didn't know anything about the coming of the police; and when I
+saw the sudden eruption of brass-buttoned, helmeted bulls, each of
+them reaching with both hands, all the forces and stability of my
+being were overthrown. Remained only the automatic process to run. And
+I ran. I didn't know I was running. I didn't know anything. It was, as
+I have said, automatic. There was no reason for me to run. I was not a
+hobo. I was a citizen of that community. It was my home town. I was
+guilty of no wrong-doing. I was a college man. I had even got my name
+in the papers, and I wore good clothes that had never been slept in.
+And yet I ran--blindly, madly, like a startled deer, for over a block.
+And when I came to myself, I noted that I was still running. It
+required a positive effort of will to stop those legs of mine.
+
+No, I'll never get over it. I can't help it. When a bull reaches, I
+run. Besides, I have an unhappy faculty for getting into jail. I have
+been in jail more times since I was a hobo than when I was one. I
+start out on a Sunday morning with a young lady on a bicycle ride.
+Before we can get outside the city limits we are arrested for passing
+a pedestrian on the sidewalk. I resolve to be more careful. The next
+time I am on a bicycle it is night-time and my acetylene-gas-lamp is
+misbehaving. I cherish the sickly flame carefully, because of the
+ordinance. I am in a hurry, but I ride at a snail's pace so as not to
+jar out the flickering flame. I reach the city limits; I am beyond the
+jurisdiction of the ordinance; and I proceed to scorch to make up for
+lost time. And half a mile farther on I am "pinched" by a bull, and
+the next morning I forfeit my bail in the police court. The city had
+treacherously extended its limits into a mile of the country, and I
+didn't know, that was all. I remember my inalienable right of free
+speech and peaceable assemblage, and I get up on a soap-box to trot
+out the particular economic bees that buzz in my bonnet, and a bull
+takes me off that box and leads me to the city prison, and after that
+I get out on bail. It's no use. In Korea I used to be arrested about
+every other day. It was the same thing in Manchuria. The last time I
+was in Japan I broke into jail under the pretext of being a Russian
+spy. It wasn't my pretext, but it got me into jail just the same.
+There is no hope for me. I am fated to do the Prisoner-of-Chillon
+stunt yet. This is prophecy.
+
+I once hypnotized a bull on Boston Common. It was past midnight and he
+had me dead to rights; but before I got done with him he had ponied up
+a silver quarter and given me the address of an all-night restaurant.
+Then there was a bull in Bristol, New Jersey, who caught me and let me
+go, and heaven knows he had provocation enough to put me in jail. I
+hit him the hardest I'll wager he was ever hit in his life. It
+happened this way. About midnight I nailed a freight out of
+Philadelphia. The shacks ditched me. She was pulling out slowly
+through the maze of tracks and switches of the freight-yards. I nailed
+her again, and again I was ditched. You see, I had to nail her
+"outside," for she was a through freight with every door locked and
+sealed.
+
+The second time I was ditched the shack gave me a lecture. He told me
+I was risking my life, that it was a fast freight and that she went
+some. I told him I was used to going some myself, but it was no go. He
+said he wouldn't permit me to commit suicide, and I hit the grit. But
+I nailed her a third time, getting in between on the bumpers. They
+were the most meagre bumpers I had ever seen--I do not refer to the
+real bumpers, the iron bumpers that are connected by the
+coupling-link and that pound and grind on each other; what I refer to
+are the beams, like huge cleats, that cross the ends of freight cars
+just above the bumpers. When one rides the bumpers, he stands on these
+cleats, one foot on each, the bumpers between his feet and just
+beneath.
+
+But the beams or cleats I found myself on were not the broad, generous
+ones that at that time were usually on box-cars. On the contrary, they
+were very narrow--not more than an inch and a half in breadth. I
+couldn't get half of the width of my sole on them. Then there was
+nothing to which to hold with my hands. True, there were the ends of
+the two box-cars; but those ends were flat, perpendicular surfaces.
+There were no grips. I could only press the flats of my palms against
+the car-ends for support. But that would have been all right if the
+cleats for my feet had been decently wide.
+
+As the freight got out of Philadelphia she began to hit up speed. Then
+I understood what the shack had meant by suicide. The freight went
+faster and faster. She was a through freight, and there was nothing to
+stop her. On that section of the Pennsylvania four tracks run side by
+side, and my east-bound freight didn't need to worry about passing
+west-bound freights, nor about being overtaken by east-bound
+expresses. She had the track to herself, and she used it. I was in a
+precarious situation. I stood with the mere edges of my feet on the
+narrow projections, the palms of my hands pressing desperately against
+the flat, perpendicular ends of each car. And those cars moved, and
+moved individually, up and down and back and forth. Did you ever see a
+circus rider, standing on two running horses, with one foot on the
+back of each horse? Well, that was what I was doing, with several
+differences. The circus rider had the reins to hold on to, while I had
+nothing; he stood on the broad soles of his feet, while I stood on the
+edges of mine; he bent his legs and body, gaining the strength of the
+arch in his posture and achieving the stability of a low centre of
+gravity, while I was compelled to stand upright and keep my legs
+straight; he rode face forward, while I was riding sidewise; and also,
+if he fell off, he'd get only a roll in the sawdust, while I'd have
+been ground to pieces beneath the wheels.
+
+And that freight was certainly going some, roaring and shrieking,
+swinging madly around curves, thundering over trestles, one car-end
+bumping up when the other was jarring down, or jerking to the right at
+the same moment the other was lurching to the left, and with me all
+the while praying and hoping for the train to stop. But she didn't
+stop. She didn't have to. For the first, last, and only time on The
+Road, I got all I wanted. I abandoned the bumpers and managed to get
+out on a side-ladder; it was ticklish work, for I had never
+encountered car-ends that were so parsimonious of hand-holds and
+foot-holds as those car-ends were.
+
+I heard the engine whistling, and I felt the speed easing down. I knew
+the train wasn't going to stop, but my mind was made up to chance it
+if she slowed down sufficiently. The right of way at this point took a
+curve, crossed a bridge over a canal, and cut through the town of
+Bristol. This combination compelled slow speed. I clung on to the
+side-ladder and waited. I didn't know it was the town of Bristol we
+were approaching. I did not know what necessitated slackening in
+speed. All I knew was that I wanted to get off. I strained my eyes in
+the darkness for a street-crossing on which to land. I was pretty well
+down the train, and before my car was in the town the engine was past
+the station and I could feel her making speed again.
+
+Then came the street. It was too dark to see how wide it was or what
+was on the other side. I knew I needed all of that street if I was to
+remain on my feet after I struck. I dropped off on the near side. It
+sounds easy. By "dropped off" I mean just this: I first of all, on the
+side-ladder, thrust my body forward as far as I could in the direction
+the train was going--this to give as much space as possible in which
+to gain backward momentum when I swung off. Then I swung, swung out
+and backward, backward with all my might, and let go--at the same time
+throwing myself backward as if I intended to strike the ground on the
+back of my head. The whole effort was to overcome as much as possible
+the primary forward momentum the train had imparted to my body. When
+my feet hit the grit, my body was lying backward on the air at an
+angle of forty-five degrees. I had reduced the forward momentum some,
+for when my feet struck, I did not immediately pitch forward on my
+face. Instead, my body rose to the perpendicular and began to incline
+forward. In point of fact, my body proper still retained much
+momentum, while my feet, through contact with the earth, had lost all
+their momentum. This momentum the feet had lost I had to supply anew
+by lifting them as rapidly as I could and running them forward in
+order to keep them under my forward-moving body. The result was that
+my feet beat a rapid and explosive tattoo clear across the street. I
+didn't dare stop them. If I had, I'd have pitched forward. It was up
+to me to keep on going.
+
+I was an involuntary projectile, worrying about what was on the other
+side of the street and hoping that it wouldn't be a stone wall or a
+telegraph pole. And just then I hit something. Horrors! I saw it just
+the instant before the disaster--of all things, a bull, standing there
+in the darkness. We went down together, rolling over and over; and the
+automatic process was such in that miserable creature that in the
+moment of impact he reached out and clutched me and never let go. We
+were both knocked out, and he held on to a very lamb-like hobo while
+he recovered.
+
+If that bull had any imagination, he must have thought me a traveller
+from other worlds, the man from Mars just arriving; for in the
+darkness he hadn't seen me swing from the train. In fact, his first
+words were: "Where did you come from?" His next words, and before I
+had time to answer, were: "I've a good mind to run you in." This
+latter, I am convinced, was likewise automatic. He was a really good
+bull at heart, for after I had told him a "story" and helped brush off
+his clothes, he gave me until the next freight to get out of town. I
+stipulated two things: first, that the freight be east-bound, and
+second, that it should not be a through freight with all doors sealed
+and locked. To this he agreed, and thus, by the terms of the Treaty of
+Bristol, I escaped being pinched.
+
+I remember another night, in that part of the country, when I just
+missed another bull. If I had hit him, I'd have telescoped him, for I
+was coming down from above, all holds free, with several other bulls
+one jump behind and reaching for me. This is how it happened. I had
+been lodging in a livery stable in Washington. I had a box-stall and
+unnumbered horse-blankets all to myself. In return for such sumptuous
+accommodation I took care of a string of horses each morning. I might
+have been there yet, if it hadn't been for the bulls.
+
+One evening, about nine o'clock, I returned to the stable to go to
+bed, and found a crap game in full blast. It had been a market day,
+and all the negroes had money. It would be well to explain the lay of
+the land. The livery stable faced on two streets. I entered the front,
+passed through the office, and came to the alley between two rows of
+stalls that ran the length of the building and opened out on the other
+street. Midway along this alley, beneath a gas-jet and between the
+rows of horses, were about forty negroes. I joined them as an
+onlooker. I was broke and couldn't play. A coon was making passes and
+not dragging down. He was riding his luck, and with each pass the
+total stake doubled. All kinds of money lay on the floor. It was
+fascinating. With each pass, the chances increased tremendously
+against the coon making another pass. The excitement was intense. And
+just then there came a thundering smash on the big doors that opened
+on the back street.
+
+A few of the negroes bolted in the opposite direction. I paused from
+my flight a moment to grab at the all kinds of money on the floor.
+This wasn't theft: it was merely custom. Every man who hadn't run was
+grabbing. The doors crashed open and swung in, and through them surged
+a squad of bulls. We surged the other way. It was dark in the office,
+and the narrow door would not permit all of us to pass out to the
+street at the same time. Things became congested. A coon took a dive
+through the window, taking the sash along with him and followed by
+other coons. At our rear, the bulls were nailing prisoners. A big coon
+and myself made a dash at the door at the same time. He was bigger
+than I, and he pivoted me and got through first. The next instant a
+club swatted him on the head and he went down like a steer. Another
+squad of bulls was waiting outside for us. They knew they couldn't
+stop the rush with their hands, and so they were swinging their clubs.
+I stumbled over the fallen coon who had pivoted me, ducked a swat from
+a club, dived between a bull's legs, and was free. And then how I ran!
+There was a lean mulatto just in front of me, and I took his pace. He
+knew the town better than I did, and I knew that in the way he ran lay
+safety. But he, on the other hand, took me for a pursuing bull. He
+never looked around. He just ran. My wind was good, and I hung on to
+his pace and nearly killed him. In the end he stumbled weakly, went
+down on his knees, and surrendered to me. And when he discovered I
+wasn't a bull, all that saved me was that he didn't have any wind left
+in him.
+
+That was why I left Washington--not on account of the mulatto, but on
+account of the bulls. I went down to the depot and caught the first
+blind out on a Pennsylvania Railroad express. After the train got good
+and under way and I noted the speed she was making, a misgiving smote
+me. This was a four-track railroad, and the engines took water on the
+fly. Hoboes had long since warned me never to ride the first blind on
+trains where the engines took water on the fly. And now let me
+explain. Between the tracks are shallow metal troughs. As the engine,
+at full speed, passes above, a sort of chute drops down into the
+trough. The result is that all the water in the trough rushes up the
+chute and fills the tender.
+
+Somewhere along between Washington and Baltimore, as I sat on the
+platform of the blind, a fine spray began to fill the air. It did no
+harm. Ah, ha, thought I; it's all a bluff, this taking water on the
+fly being bad for the bo on the first blind. What does this little
+spray amount to? Then I began to marvel at the device. This was
+railroading! Talk about your primitive Western railroading--and just
+then the tender filled up, and it hadn't reached the end of the
+trough. A tidal wave of water poured over the back of the tender and
+down upon me. I was soaked to the skin, as wet as if I had fallen
+overboard.
+
+The train pulled into Baltimore. As is the custom in the great Eastern
+cities, the railroad ran beneath the level of the streets on the
+bottom of a big "cut." As the train pulled into the lighted depot, I
+made myself as small as possible on the blind. But a railroad bull saw
+me, and gave chase. Two more joined him. I was past the depot, and I
+ran straight on down the track. I was in a sort of trap. On each side
+of me rose the steep walls of the cut, and if I ever essayed them and
+failed, I knew that I'd slide back into the clutches of the bulls. I
+ran on and on, studying the walls of the cut for a favorable place to
+climb up. At last I saw such a place. It came just after I had passed
+under a bridge that carried a level street across the cut. Up the
+steep slope I went, clawing hand and foot. The three railroad bulls
+were clawing up right after me.
+
+At the top, I found myself in a vacant lot. On one side was a low wall
+that separated it from the street. There was no time for minute
+investigation. They were at my heels. I headed for the wall and
+vaulted it. And right there was where I got the surprise of my life.
+One is used to thinking that one side of a wall is just as high as the
+other side. But that wall was different. You see, the vacant lot was
+much higher than the level of the street. On my side the wall was low,
+but on the other side--well, as I came soaring over the top, all holds
+free, it seemed to me that I was falling feet-first, plump into an
+abyss. There beneath me, on the sidewalk, under the light of a
+street-lamp was a bull. I guess it was nine or ten feet down to the
+sidewalk; but in the shock of surprise in mid-air it seemed twice that
+distance.
+
+I straightened out in the air and came down. At first I thought I was
+going to land on the bull. My clothes did brush him as my feet struck
+the sidewalk with explosive impact. It was a wonder he didn't drop
+dead, for he hadn't heard me coming. It was the man-from-Mars stunt
+over again. The bull did jump. He shied away from me like a horse from
+an auto; and then he reached for me. I didn't stop to explain. I left
+that to my pursuers, who were dropping over the wall rather gingerly.
+But I got a chase all right. I ran up one street and down another,
+dodged around corners, and at last got away.
+
+After spending some of the coin I'd got from the crap game and killing
+off an hour of time, I came back to the railroad cut, just outside the
+lights of the depot, and waited for a train. My blood had cooled down,
+and I shivered miserably, what of my wet clothes. At last a train
+pulled into the station. I lay low in the darkness, and successfully
+boarded her when she pulled out, taking good care this time to make
+the second blind. No more water on the fly in mine. The train ran
+forty miles to the first stop. I got off in a lighted depot that was
+strangely familiar. I was back in Washington. In some way, during the
+excitement of the get-away in Baltimore, running through strange
+streets, dodging and turning and retracing, I had got turned around. I
+had taken the train out the wrong way. I had lost a night's sleep, I
+had been soaked to the skin, I had been chased for my life; and for
+all my pains I was back where I had started. Oh, no, life on The Road
+is not all beer and skittles. But I didn't go back to the livery
+stable. I had done some pretty successful grabbing, and I didn't want
+to reckon up with the coons. So I caught the next train out, and ate
+my breakfast in Baltimore.
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14658 ***
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+<body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14658 ***</div>
+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Road, by Jack London</h1>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h1>THE ROAD</h1>
+
+<h2>By Jack London</h2>
+
+<h4>1907</h4>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h6>(New York: Macmillan)</h6>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+<br /><br />
+<p class="center">TO</p>
+
+<p class="center">JOSIAH FLYNT</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>The Real Thing, Blowed in the Glass</i></p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h2><a name="Contents" id="Contents" />Contents</h2>
+
+<!-- Autogenerated TOC. Modify or delete as required. -->
+
+<h4> <a href="#Confession"><b>Confession</b></a></h4>
+<h4> <a href="#Holding_Her_Down"><b>Holding Her Down</b></a></h4>
+<h4> <a href="#Pictures"><b>Pictures</b></a></h4>
+<h4> <a href="#Pinchedquot"><b>&quot;Pinched&quot;</b></a></h4>
+<h4> <a href="#The_Pen"><b>The Pen</b></a></h4>
+<h4> <a href="#Hoboes_That_Pass_in_the_Night"><b>Hoboes That Pass in the Night</b></a></h4>
+<h4> <a href="#Road_Kids_and_Gay_Cats"><b>Road-Kids and Gay-Cats</b></a></h4>
+<h4> <a href="#Two_Thousand_Stiffs"><b>Two Thousand Stiffs</b></a></h4>
+<h4> <a href="#Bulls"><b>Bulls</b></a></h4>
+
+<!-- End Autogenerated TOC. -->
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<br />
+<br />
+
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span>&quot;Speakin' in general, I 'ave tried 'em all,<br /></span>
+<span>The 'appy roads that take you o'er the world.<br /></span>
+<span>Speakin' in general, I 'ave found them good<br /></span>
+<span>For such as cannot use one bed too long,<br /></span>
+<span>But must get 'ence, the same as I 'ave done,<br /></span>
+<span>An' go observin' matters till they die.&quot;<br /></span>
+<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash;<i>Sestina of the Tramp-Royal</i></p>
+</div></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Confession" id="Confession" /><i>Confession</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>There is a woman in the state of Nevada to whom I once lied continuously,
+consistently, and shamelessly, for the matter of a couple of hours. I
+don't want to apologize to her. Far be it from me. But I do want to
+explain. Unfortunately, I do not know her name, much less her present
+address. If her eyes should chance upon these lines, I hope she will write
+to me.</p>
+
+<p>It was in Reno, Nevada, in the summer of 1892. Also, it was fair-time, and
+the town was filled with petty crooks and tin-horns, to say nothing of a
+vast and hungry horde of hoboes. It was the hungry hoboes that made the
+town a &quot;hungry&quot; town. They &quot;battered&quot; the back doors of the homes of the
+citizens until the back doors became unresponsive.</p>
+
+<p>A hard town for &quot;scoffings,&quot; was what the hoboes called it at that time. I
+know that I missed many a meal, in spite of the fact that I could &quot;throw
+my feet&quot; with the next one when it came to &quot;slamming a gate&quot; for a
+&quot;poke-out&quot; or a &quot;set-down,&quot; or hitting for a &quot;light piece&quot; on the street.
+Why, I was so hard put in that town, one day, that I gave the porter the
+slip and invaded the private car of some itinerant millionnaire. The train
+started as I made the platform, and I headed for the aforesaid
+millionnaire with the porter one jump behind and reaching for me. It was a
+dead heat, for I reached the millionnaire at the same instant that the
+porter reached me. I had no time for formalities. &quot;Gimme a quarter to eat
+on,&quot; I blurted out. And as I live, that millionnaire dipped into his
+pocket and gave me ... just ... precisely ... a quarter. It is my
+conviction that he was so flabbergasted that he obeyed automatically, and
+it has been a matter of keen regret ever since, on my part, that I didn't
+ask him for a dollar. I know that I'd have got it. I swung off the
+platform of that private car with the porter manoeuvring to kick me in the
+face. He missed me. One is at a terrible disadvantage when trying to swing
+off the lowest step of a car and not break his neck on the right of way,
+with, at the same time, an irate Ethiopian on the platform above trying
+to land him in the face with a number eleven. But I got the quarter! I got
+it!</p>
+
+<p>But to return to the woman to whom I so shamelessly lied. It was in the
+evening of my last day in Reno. I had been out to the race-track watching
+the ponies run, and had missed my dinner (<i>i.e.</i> the mid-day meal). I was
+hungry, and, furthermore, a committee of public safety had just been
+organized to rid the town of just such hungry mortals as I. Already a lot
+of my brother hoboes had been gathered in by John Law, and I could hear
+the sunny valleys of California calling to me over the cold crests of the
+Sierras. Two acts remained for me to perform before I shook the dust of
+Reno from my feet. One was to catch the blind baggage on the westbound
+overland that night. The other was first to get something to eat. Even
+youth will hesitate at an all-night ride, on an empty stomach, outside a
+train that is tearing the atmosphere through the snow-sheds, tunnels, and
+eternal snows of heaven-aspiring mountains.</p>
+
+<p>But that something to eat was a hard proposition. I was &quot;turned down&quot; at a
+dozen houses. Sometimes I received insulting remarks and was informed of
+the barred domicile that should be mine if I had my just deserts. The
+worst of it was that such assertions were only too true. That was why I
+was pulling west that night. John Law was abroad in the town, seeking
+eagerly for the hungry and homeless, for by such was his barred domicile
+tenanted.</p>
+
+<p>At other houses the doors were slammed in my face, cutting short my
+politely and humbly couched request for something to eat. At one house
+they did not open the door. I stood on the porch and knocked, and they
+looked out at me through the window. They even held one sturdy little boy
+aloft so that he could see over the shoulders of his elders the tramp who
+wasn't going to get anything to eat at their house.</p>
+
+<p>It began to look as if I should be compelled to go to the very poor for my
+food. The very poor constitute the last sure recourse of the hungry tramp.
+The very poor can always be depended upon. They never turn away the
+hungry. Time and again, all over the United States, have I been refused
+food by the big house on the hill; and always have I received food from
+the little shack down by the creek or marsh, with its broken windows
+stuffed with rags and its tired-faced mother broken with labor. Oh, you
+charity-mongers! Go to the poor and learn, for the poor alone are the
+charitable. They neither give nor withhold from their excess. They have no
+excess. They give, and they withhold never, from what they need for
+themselves, and very often from what they cruelly need for themselves. A
+bone to the dog is not charity. Charity is the bone shared with the dog
+when you are just as hungry as the dog.</p>
+
+<p>There was one house in particular where I was turned down that evening.
+The porch windows opened on the dining room, and through them I saw a man
+eating pie&mdash;a big meat-pie. I stood in the open door, and while he talked
+with me, he went on eating. He was prosperous, and out of his prosperity
+had been bred resentment against his less fortunate brothers.</p>
+
+<p>He cut short my request for something to eat, snapping out, &quot;I don't
+believe you want to work.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Now this was irrelevant. I hadn't said anything about work. The topic of
+conversation I had introduced was &quot;food.&quot; In fact, I didn't want to work.
+I wanted to take the westbound overland that night.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You wouldn't work if you had a chance,&quot; he bullied.</p>
+
+<p>I glanced at his meek-faced wife, and knew that but for the presence of
+this Cerberus I'd have a whack at that meat-pie myself. But Cerberus
+sopped himself in the pie, and I saw that I must placate him if I were to
+get a share of it. So I sighed to myself and accepted his work-morality.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Of course I want work,&quot; I bluffed.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Don't believe it,&quot; he snorted.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Try me,&quot; I answered, warming to the bluff.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;All right,&quot; he said. &quot;Come to the corner of blank and blank streets&quot;&mdash;(I
+have forgotten the address)&mdash;&quot;to-morrow morning. You know where that
+burned building is, and I'll put you to work tossing bricks.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;All right, sir; I'll be there.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He grunted and went on eating. I waited. After a couple of minutes he
+looked up with an I-thought-you-were-gone expression on his face, and
+demanded:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Well?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I ... I am waiting for something to eat,&quot; I said gently.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I knew you wouldn't work!&quot; he roared.</p>
+
+<p>He was right, of course; but his conclusion must have been reached by
+mind-reading, for his logic wouldn't bear it out. But the beggar at the
+door must be humble, so I accepted his logic as I had accepted his
+morality.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You see, I am now hungry,&quot; I said still gently. &quot;To-morrow morning I
+shall be hungrier. Think how hungry I shall be when I have tossed bricks
+all day without anything to eat. Now if you will give me something to eat,
+I'll be in great shape for those bricks.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He gravely considered my plea, at the same time going on eating, while his
+wife nearly trembled into propitiatory speech, but refrained.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I'll tell you what I'll do,&quot; he said between mouthfuls. &quot;You come to work
+to-morrow, and in the middle of the day I'll advance you enough for your
+dinner. That will show whether you are in earnest or not.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;In the meantime&mdash;&quot; I began; but he interrupted.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;If I gave you something to eat now, I'd never see you again. Oh, I know
+your kind. Look at me. I owe no man. I have never descended so low as to
+ask any one for food. I have always earned my food. The trouble with you
+is that you are idle and dissolute. I can see it in your face. I have
+worked and been honest. I have made myself what I am. And you can do the
+same, if you work and are honest.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Like you?&quot; I queried.</p>
+
+<p>Alas, no ray of humor had ever penetrated the sombre work-sodden soul of
+that man.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Yes, like me,&quot; he answered.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;All of us?&quot; I queried.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Yes, all of you,&quot; he answered, conviction vibrating in his voice.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;But if we all became like you,&quot; I said, &quot;allow me to point out that
+there'd be nobody to toss bricks for you.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I swear there was a flicker of a smile in his wife's eye. As for him, he
+was aghast&mdash;but whether at the awful possibility of a reformed humanity
+that would not enable him to get anybody to toss bricks for him, or at my
+impudence, I shall never know.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I'll not waste words on you,&quot; he roared. &quot;Get out of here, you
+ungrateful whelp!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I scraped my feet to advertise my intention of going, and queried:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;And I don't get anything to eat?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He arose suddenly to his feet. He was a large man. I was a stranger in a
+strange land, and John Law was looking for me. I went away hurriedly. &quot;But
+why ungrateful?&quot; I asked myself as I slammed his gate. &quot;What in the
+dickens did he give me to be ungrateful about?&quot; I looked back. I could
+still see him through the window. He had returned to his pie.</p>
+
+<p>By this time I had lost heart. I passed many houses by without venturing
+up to them. All houses looked alike, and none looked &quot;good.&quot; After walking
+half a dozen blocks I shook off my despondency and gathered my &quot;nerve.&quot;
+This begging for food was all a game, and if I didn't like the cards, I
+could always call for a new deal. I made up my mind to tackle the next
+house. I approached it in the deepening twilight, going around to the
+kitchen door.</p>
+
+<p>I knocked softly, and when I saw the kind face of the middle-aged woman
+who answered, as by inspiration came to me the &quot;story&quot; I was to tell. For
+know that upon his ability to tell a good story depends the success of the
+beggar. First of all, and on the instant, the beggar must &quot;size up&quot; his
+victim. After that, he must tell a story that will appeal to the peculiar
+personality and temperament of that particular victim. And right here
+arises the great difficulty: in the instant that he is sizing up the
+victim he must begin his story. Not a minute is allowed for preparation.
+As in a lightning flash he must divine the nature of the victim and
+conceive a tale that will hit home. The successful hobo must be an artist.
+He must create spontaneously and instantaneously&mdash;and not upon a theme
+selected from the plenitude of his own imagination, but upon the theme he
+reads in the face of the person who opens the door, be it man, woman, or
+child, sweet or crabbed, generous or miserly, good-natured or
+cantankerous, Jew or Gentile, black or white, race-prejudiced or
+brotherly, provincial or universal, or whatever else it may be. I have
+often thought that to this training of my tramp days is due much of my
+success as a story-writer. In order to get the food whereby I lived, I
+was compelled to tell tales that rang true. At the back door, out of
+inexorable necessity, is developed the convincingness and sincerity laid
+down by all authorities on the art of the short-story. Also, I quite
+believe it was my tramp-apprenticeship that made a realist out of me.
+Realism constitutes the only goods one can exchange at the kitchen door
+for grub.</p>
+
+<p>After all, art is only consummate artfulness, and artfulness saves many a
+&quot;story.&quot; I remember lying in a police station at Winnipeg, Manitoba. I was
+bound west over the Canadian Pacific. Of course, the police wanted my
+story, and I gave it to them&mdash;on the spur of the moment. They were
+landlubbers, in the heart of the continent, and what better story for them
+than a sea story? They could never trip me up on that. And so I told a
+tearful tale of my life on the hell-ship <i>Glenmore</i>. (I had once seen the
+<i>Glenmore</i> lying at anchor in San Francisco Bay.)</p>
+
+<p>I was an English apprentice, I said. And they said that I didn't talk like
+an English boy. It was up to me to create on the instant. I had been born
+and reared in the United States. On the death of my parents, I had been
+sent to England to my grandparents. It was they who had apprenticed me on
+the <i>Glenmore</i>. I hope the captain of the <i>Glenmore</i> will forgive me, for
+I gave him a character that night in the Winnipeg police station. Such
+cruelty! Such brutality! Such diabolical ingenuity of torture! It
+explained why I had deserted the <i>Glenmore</i> at Montreal.</p>
+
+<p>But why was I in the middle of Canada going west, when my grandparents
+lived in England? Promptly I created a married sister who lived in
+California. She would take care of me. I developed at length her loving
+nature. But they were not done with me, those hard-hearted policemen. I
+had joined the <i>Glenmore</i> in England; in the two years that had elapsed
+before my desertion at Montreal, what had the <i>Glenmore</i> done and where
+had she been? And thereat I took those landlubbers around the world with
+me. Buffeted by pounding seas and stung with flying spray, they fought a
+typhoon with me off the coast of Japan. They loaded and unloaded cargo
+with me in all the ports of the Seven Seas. I took them to India, and
+Rangoon, and China, and had them hammer ice with me around the Horn and
+at last come to moorings at Montreal.</p>
+
+<p>And then they said to wait a moment, and one policeman went forth into the
+night while I warmed myself at the stove, all the while racking my brains
+for the trap they were going to spring on me.</p>
+
+<p>I groaned to myself when I saw him come in the door at the heels of the
+policeman. No gypsy prank had thrust those tiny hoops of gold through the
+ears; no prairie winds had beaten that skin into wrinkled leather; nor had
+snow-drift and mountain-slope put in his walk that reminiscent roll. And
+in those eyes, when they looked at me, I saw the unmistakable sun-wash of
+the sea. Here was a theme, alas! with half a dozen policemen to watch me
+read&mdash;I who had never sailed the China seas, nor been around the Horn, nor
+looked with my eyes upon India and Rangoon.</p>
+
+<p>I was desperate. Disaster stalked before me incarnate in the form of that
+gold-ear-ringed, weather-beaten son of the sea. Who was he? What was he? I
+must solve him ere he solved me. I must take a new orientation, or else
+those wicked policemen would orientate me to a cell, a police court, and
+more cells. If he questioned me first, before I knew how much he knew, I
+was lost.</p>
+
+<p>But did I betray my desperate plight to those lynx-eyed guardians of the
+public welfare of Winnipeg? Not I. I met that aged sailorman glad-eyed and
+beaming, with all the simulated relief at deliverance that a drowning man
+would display on finding a life-preserver in his last despairing clutch.
+Here was a man who understood and who would verify my true story to the
+faces of those sleuth-hounds who did not understand, or, at least, such
+was what I endeavored to play-act. I seized upon him; I volleyed him with
+questions about himself. Before my judges I would prove the character of
+my savior before he saved me.</p>
+
+<p>He was a kindly sailorman&mdash;an &quot;easy mark.&quot; The policemen grew impatient
+while I questioned him. At last one of them told me to shut up. I shut up;
+but while I remained shut up, I was busy creating, busy sketching the
+scenario of the next act. I had learned enough to go on with. He was a
+Frenchman. He had sailed always on French merchant vessels, with the one
+exception of a voyage on a &quot;lime-juicer.&quot; And last of all&mdash;blessed
+fact!&mdash;he had not been on the sea for twenty years.</p>
+
+<p>The policeman urged him on to examine me.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You called in at Rangoon?&quot; he queried.</p>
+
+<p>I nodded. &quot;We put our third mate ashore there. Fever.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>If he had asked me what kind of fever, I should have answered, &quot;Enteric,&quot;
+though for the life of me I didn't know what enteric was. But he didn't
+ask me. Instead, his next question was:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;And how is Rangoon?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;All right. It rained a whole lot when we were there.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Did you get shore-leave?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Sure,&quot; I answered. &quot;Three of us apprentices went ashore together.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Do you remember the temple?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Which temple?&quot; I parried.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The big one, at the top of the stairway.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>If I remembered that temple, I knew I'd have to describe it. The gulf
+yawned for me.</p>
+
+<p>I shook my head.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You can see it from all over the harbor,&quot; he informed me. &quot;You don't need
+shore-leave to see that temple.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I never loathed a temple so in my life. But I fixed that particular temple
+at Rangoon.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You can't see it from the harbor,&quot; I contradicted. &quot;You can't see it from
+the town. You can't see it from the top of the stairway. Because&mdash;&quot; I
+paused for the effect. &quot;Because there isn't any temple there.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;But I saw it with my own eyes!&quot; he cried.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;That was in&mdash;?&quot; I queried.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Seventy-one.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;It was destroyed in the great earthquake of 1887,&quot; I explained. &quot;It was
+very old.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>There was a pause. He was busy reconstructing in his old eyes the youthful
+vision of that fair temple by the sea.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The stairway is still there,&quot; I aided him. &quot;You can see it from all over
+the harbor. And you remember that little island on the right-hand side
+coming into the harbor?&quot; I guess there must have been one there (I was
+prepared to shift it over to the left-hand side), for he nodded. &quot;Gone,&quot;
+I said. &quot;Seven fathoms of water there now.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I had gained a moment for breath. While he pondered on time's changes, I
+prepared the finishing touches of my story.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You remember the custom-house at Bombay?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He remembered it.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Burned to the ground,&quot; I announced.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Do you remember Jim Wan?&quot; he came back at me.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Dead,&quot; I said; but who the devil Jim Wan was I hadn't the slightest idea.</p>
+
+<p>I was on thin ice again.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Do you remember Billy Harper, at Shanghai?&quot; I queried back at him
+quickly.</p>
+
+<p>That aged sailorman worked hard to recollect, but the Billy Harper of my
+imagination was beyond his faded memory.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Of course you remember Billy Harper,&quot; I insisted. &quot;Everybody knows him.
+He's been there forty years. Well, he's still there, that's all.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>And then the miracle happened. The sailorman remembered Billy Harper.
+Perhaps there was a Billy Harper, and perhaps he had been in Shanghai for
+forty years and was still there; but it was news to me.</p>
+
+<p>For fully half an hour longer, the sailorman and I talked on in similar
+fashion. In the end he told the policemen that I was what I represented
+myself to be, and after a night's lodging and a breakfast I was released
+to wander on westward to my married sister in San Francisco.</p>
+
+<p>But to return to the woman in Reno who opened her door to me in the
+deepening twilight. At the first glimpse of her kindly face I took my cue.
+I became a sweet, innocent, unfortunate lad. I couldn't speak. I opened my
+mouth and closed it again. Never in my life before had I asked any one for
+food. My embarrassment was painful, extreme. I was ashamed. I, who looked
+upon begging as a delightful whimsicality, thumbed myself over into a true
+son of Mrs. Grundy, burdened with all her bourgeois morality. Only the
+harsh pangs of the belly-need could compel me to do so degraded and
+ignoble a thing as beg for food. And into my face I strove to throw all
+the wan wistfulness of famished and ingenuous youth unused to mendicancy.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You are hungry, my poor boy,&quot; she said.</p>
+
+<p>I had made her speak first.</p>
+
+<p>I nodded my head and gulped.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;It is the first time I have ever ... asked,&quot; I faltered.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Come right in.&quot; The door swung open. &quot;We have already finished eating,
+but the fire is burning and I can get something up for you.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>She looked at me closely when she got me into the light.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I wish my boy were as healthy and strong as you,&quot; she said. &quot;But he is
+not strong. He sometimes falls down. He just fell down this afternoon and
+hurt himself badly, the poor dear.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>She mothered him with her voice, with an ineffable tenderness in it that I
+yearned to appropriate. I glanced at him. He sat across the table, slender
+and pale, his head swathed in bandages. He did not move, but his eyes,
+bright in the lamplight, were fixed upon me in a steady and wondering
+stare.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Just like my poor father,&quot; I said. &quot;He had the falling sickness. Some
+kind of vertigo. It puzzled the doctors. They never could make out what
+was the matter with him.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;He is dead?&quot; she queried gently, setting before me half a dozen
+soft-boiled eggs.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Dead,&quot; I gulped. &quot;Two weeks ago. I was with him when it happened. We were
+crossing the street together. He fell right down. He was never conscious
+again. They carried him into a drug-store. He died there.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>And thereat I developed the pitiful tale of my father&mdash;how, after my
+mother's death, he and I had gone to San Francisco from the ranch; how his
+pension (he was an old soldier), and the little other money he had, was
+not enough; and how he had tried book-canvassing. Also, I narrated my own
+woes during the few days after his death that I had spent alone and
+forlorn on the streets of San Francisco. While that good woman warmed up
+biscuits, fried bacon, and cooked more eggs, and while I kept pace with
+her in taking care of all that she placed before me, I enlarged the
+picture of that poor orphan boy and filled in the details. I became that
+poor boy. I believed in him as I believed in the beautiful eggs I was
+devouring. I could have wept for myself. I know the tears did get into my
+voice at times. It was very effective.</p>
+
+<p>In fact, with every touch I added to the picture, that kind soul gave me
+something also. She made up a lunch for me to carry away. She put in many
+boiled eggs, pepper and salt, and other things, and a big apple. She
+provided me with three pairs of thick red woollen socks. She gave me clean
+handkerchiefs and other things which I have since forgotten. And all the
+time she cooked more and more and I ate more and more. I gorged like a
+savage; but then it was a far cry across the Sierras on a blind baggage,
+and I knew not when nor where I should find my next meal. And all the
+while, like a death's-head at the feast, silent and motionless, her own
+unfortunate boy sat and stared at me across the table. I suppose I
+represented to him mystery, and romance, and adventure&mdash;all that was
+denied the feeble flicker of life that was in him. And yet I could not
+forbear, once or twice, from wondering if he saw through me down to the
+bottom of my mendacious heart.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;But where are you going to?&quot; she asked me.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Salt Lake City,&quot; said I. &quot;I have a sister there&mdash;a married sister.&quot; (I
+debated if I should make a Mormon out of her, and decided against it.)
+&quot;Her husband is a plumber&mdash;a contracting plumber.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Now I knew that contracting plumbers were usually credited with making
+lots of money. But I had spoken. It was up to me to qualify.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;They would have sent me the money for my fare if I had asked for it,&quot; I
+explained, &quot;but they have had sickness and business troubles. His partner
+cheated him. And so I wouldn't write for the money. I knew I could make my
+way there somehow. I let them think I had enough to get me to Salt Lake
+City. She is lovely, and so kind. She was always kind to me. I guess I'll
+go into the shop and learn the trade. She has two daughters. They are
+younger than I. One is only a baby.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Of all my married sisters that I have distributed among the cities of the
+United States, that Salt Lake sister is my favorite. She is quite real,
+too. When I tell about her, I can see her, and her two little girls, and
+her plumber husband. She is a large, motherly woman, just verging on
+beneficent stoutness&mdash;the kind, you know, that always cooks nice things
+and that never gets angry. She is a brunette. Her husband is a quiet,
+easy-going fellow. Sometimes I almost know him quite well. And who knows
+but some day I may meet him? If that aged sailorman could remember Billy
+Harper, I see no reason why I should not some day meet the husband of my
+sister who lives in Salt Lake City.</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, I have a feeling of certitude within me that I shall
+never meet in the flesh my many parents and grandparents&mdash;you see, I
+invariably killed them off. Heart disease was my favorite way of getting
+rid of my mother, though on occasion I did away with her by means of
+consumption, pneumonia, and typhoid fever. It is true, as the Winnipeg
+policemen will attest, that I have grandparents living in England; but
+that was a long time ago and it is a fair assumption that they are dead by
+now. At any rate, they have never written to me.</p>
+
+<p>I hope that woman in Reno will read these lines and forgive me my
+gracelessness and unveracity. I do not apologize, for I am unashamed. It
+was youth, delight in life, zest for experience, that brought me to her
+door. It did me good. It taught me the intrinsic kindliness of human
+nature. I hope it did her good. Anyway, she may get a good laugh out of it
+now that she learns the real inwardness of the situation.</p>
+
+<p>To her my story was &quot;true.&quot; She believed in me and all my family, and she
+was filled with solicitude for the dangerous journey I must make ere I won
+to Salt Lake City. This solicitude nearly brought me to grief. Just as I
+was leaving, my arms full of lunch and my pockets bulging with fat woollen
+socks, she bethought herself of a nephew, or uncle, or relative of some
+sort, who was in the railway mail service, and who, moreover, would come
+through that night on the very train on which I was going to steal my
+ride. The very thing! She would take me down to the depot, tell him my
+story, and get him to hide me in the mail car. Thus, without danger or
+hardship, I would be carried straight through to Ogden. Salt Lake City was
+only a few miles farther on. My heart sank. She grew excited as she
+developed the plan and with my sinking heart I had to feign unbounded
+gladness and enthusiasm at this solution of my difficulties.</p>
+
+<p>Solution! Why I was bound west that night, and here was I being trapped
+into going east. It <i>was</i> a trap, and I hadn't the heart to tell her that
+it was all a miserable lie. And while I made believe that I was delighted,
+I was busy cudgelling my brains for some way to escape. But there was no
+way. She would see me into the mail-car&mdash;she said so herself&mdash;and then
+that mail-clerk relative of hers would carry me to Ogden. And then I would
+have to beat my way back over all those hundreds of miles of desert.</p>
+
+<p>But luck was with me that night. Just about the time she was getting ready
+to put on her bonnet and accompany me, she discovered that she had made a
+mistake. Her mail-clerk relative was not scheduled to come through that
+night. His run had been changed. He would not come through until two
+nights afterward. I was saved, for of course my boundless youth would
+never permit me to wait those two days. I optimistically assured her that
+I'd get to Salt Lake City quicker if I started immediately, and I departed
+with her blessings and best wishes ringing in my ears.</p>
+
+<p>But those woollen socks were great. I know. I wore a pair of them that
+night on the blind baggage of the overland, and that overland went west.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Holding_Her_Down" id="Holding_Her_Down" /><i>Holding Her Down</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>Barring accidents, a good hobo, with youth and agility, can hold a train
+down despite all the efforts of the train-crew to &quot;ditch&quot; him&mdash;given, of
+course, night-time as an essential condition. When such a hobo, under such
+conditions, makes up his mind that he is going to hold her down, either he
+does hold her down, or chance trips him up. There is no legitimate way,
+short of murder, whereby the train-crew can ditch him. That train-crews
+have not stopped short of murder is a current belief in the tramp world.
+Not having had that particular experience in my tramp days I cannot vouch
+for it personally.</p>
+
+<p>But this I have heard of the &quot;bad&quot; roads. When a tramp has &quot;gone
+underneath,&quot; on the rods, and the train is in motion, there is apparently
+no way of dislodging him until the train stops. The tramp, snugly
+ensconced inside the truck, with the four wheels and all the framework
+around him, has the &quot;cinch&quot; on the crew&mdash;or so he thinks, until some day
+he rides the rods on a bad road. A bad road is usually one on which a
+short time previously one or several trainmen have been killed by tramps.
+Heaven pity the tramp who is caught &quot;underneath&quot; on such a road&mdash;for
+caught he is, though the train be going sixty miles an hour.</p>
+
+<p>The &quot;shack&quot; (brakeman) takes a coupling-pin and a length of bell-cord to
+the platform in front of the truck in which the tramp is riding. The shack
+fastens the coupling-pin to the bell-cord, drops the former down between
+the platforms, and pays out the latter. The coupling-pin strikes the ties
+between the rails, rebounds against the bottom of the car, and again
+strikes the ties. The shack plays it back and forth, now to this side, now
+to the other, lets it out a bit and hauls it in a bit, giving his weapon
+opportunity for every variety of impact and rebound. Every blow of that
+flying coupling-pin is freighted with death, and at sixty miles an hour it
+beats a veritable tattoo of death. The next day the remains of that tramp
+are gathered up along the right of way, and a line in the local paper
+mentions the unknown man, undoubtedly a tramp, assumably drunk, who had
+probably fallen asleep on the track.</p>
+
+<p>As a characteristic illustration of how a capable hobo can hold her down,
+I am minded to give the following experience. I was in Ottawa, bound west
+over the Canadian Pacific. Three thousand miles of that road stretched
+before me; it was the fall of the year, and I had to cross Manitoba and
+the Rocky Mountains. I could expect &quot;crimpy&quot; weather, and every moment of
+delay increased the frigid hardships of the journey. Furthermore, I was
+disgusted. The distance between Montreal and Ottawa is one hundred and
+twenty miles. I ought to know, for I had just come over it and it had
+taken me six days. By mistake I had missed the main line and come over a
+small &quot;jerk&quot; with only two locals a day on it. And during these six days I
+had lived on dry crusts, and not enough of them, begged from the French
+peasants.</p>
+
+<p>Furthermore, my disgust had been heightened by the one day I had spent in
+Ottawa trying to get an outfit of clothing for my long journey. Let me put
+it on record right here that Ottawa, with one exception, is the hardest
+town in the United States and Canada to beg clothes in; the one exception
+is Washington, D.C. The latter fair city is the limit. I spent two weeks
+there trying to beg a pair of shoes, and then had to go on to Jersey City
+before I got them.</p>
+
+<p>But to return to Ottawa. At eight sharp in the morning I started out after
+clothes. I worked energetically all day. I swear I walked forty miles. I
+interviewed the housewives of a thousand homes. I did not even knock off
+work for dinner. And at six in the afternoon, after ten hours of
+unremitting and depressing toil, I was still shy one shirt, while the pair
+of trousers I had managed to acquire was tight and, moreover, was showing
+all the signs of an early disintegration.</p>
+
+<p>At six I quit work and headed for the railroad yards, expecting to pick up
+something to eat on the way. But my hard luck was still with me. I was
+refused food at house after house. Then I got a &quot;hand-out.&quot; My spirits
+soared, for it was the largest hand-out I had ever seen in a long and
+varied experience. It was a parcel wrapped in newspapers and as big as a
+mature suit-case. I hurried to a vacant lot and opened it. First, I saw
+cake, then more cake, all kinds and makes of cake, and then some. It was
+all cake. No bread and butter with thick firm slices of meat
+between&mdash;nothing but cake; and I who of all things abhorred cake most! In
+another age and clime they sat down by the waters of Babylon and wept. And
+in a vacant lot in Canada's proud capital, I, too, sat down and wept ...
+over a mountain of cake. As one looks upon the face of his dead son, so
+looked I upon that multitudinous pastry. I suppose I was an ungrateful
+tramp, for I refused to partake of the bounteousness of the house that had
+had a party the night before. Evidently the guests hadn't liked cake
+either.</p>
+
+<p>That cake marked the crisis in my fortunes. Than it nothing could be
+worse; therefore things must begin to mend. And they did. At the very next
+house I was given a &quot;set-down.&quot; Now a &quot;set-down&quot; is the height of bliss.
+One is taken inside, very often is given a chance to wash, and is then
+&quot;set-down&quot; at a table. Tramps love to throw their legs under a table. The
+house was large and comfortable, in the midst of spacious grounds and fine
+trees, and sat well back from the street. They had just finished eating,
+and I was taken right into the dining room&mdash;in itself a most unusual
+happening, for the tramp who is lucky enough to win a set-down usually
+receives it in the kitchen. A grizzled and gracious Englishman, his
+matronly wife, and a beautiful young Frenchwoman talked with me while I
+ate.</p>
+
+<p>I wonder if that beautiful young Frenchwoman would remember, at this late
+day, the laugh I gave her when I uttered the barbaric phrase, &quot;two-bits.&quot;
+You see, I was trying delicately to hit them for a &quot;light piece.&quot; That was
+how the sum of money came to be mentioned. &quot;What?&quot; she said. &quot;Two-bits,&quot;
+said I. Her mouth was twitching as she again said, &quot;What?&quot; &quot;Two-bits,&quot;
+said I. Whereat she burst into laughter. &quot;Won't you repeat it?&quot; she said,
+when she had regained control of herself. &quot;Two-bits,&quot; said I. And once
+more she rippled into uncontrollable silvery laughter. &quot;I beg your
+pardon,&quot; said she; &quot;but what ... what was it you said?&quot; &quot;Two-bits,&quot; said
+I; &quot;is there anything wrong about it?&quot; &quot;Not that I know of,&quot; she gurgled
+between gasps; &quot;but what does it mean?&quot; I explained, but I do not remember
+now whether or not I got that two-bits out of her; but I have often
+wondered since as to which of us was the provincial.</p>
+
+<p>When I arrived at the depot, I found, much to my disgust, a bunch of at
+least twenty tramps that were waiting to ride out the blind baggages of
+the overland. Now two or three tramps on the blind baggage are all right.
+They are inconspicuous. But a score! That meant trouble. No train-crew
+would ever let all of us ride.</p>
+
+<p>I may as well explain here what a blind baggage is. Some mail-cars are
+built without doors in the ends; hence, such a car is &quot;blind.&quot; The
+mail-cars that possess end doors, have those doors always locked. Suppose,
+after the train has started, that a tramp gets on to the platform of one
+of these blind cars. There is no door, or the door is locked. No conductor
+or brakeman can get to him to collect fare or throw him off. It is clear
+that the tramp is safe until the next time the train stops. Then he must
+get off, run ahead in the darkness, and when the train pulls by, jump on
+to the blind again. But there are ways and ways, as you shall see.</p>
+
+<p>When the train pulled out, those twenty tramps swarmed upon the three
+blinds. Some climbed on before the train had run a car-length. They were
+awkward dubs, and I saw their speedy finish. Of course, the train-crew was
+&quot;on,&quot; and at the first stop the trouble began. I jumped off and ran
+forward along the track. I noticed that I was accompanied by a number of
+the tramps. They evidently knew their business. When one is beating an
+overland, he must always keep well ahead of the train at the stops. I ran
+ahead, and as I ran, one by one those that accompanied me dropped out.
+This dropping out was the measure of their skill and nerve in boarding a
+train.</p>
+
+<p>For this is the way it works. When the train starts, the shack rides out
+the blind. There is no way for him to get back into the train proper
+except by jumping off the blind and catching a platform where the car-ends
+are not &quot;blind.&quot; When the train is going as fast as the shack cares to
+risk, he therefore jumps off the blind, lets several cars go by, and gets
+on to the train. So it is up to the tramp to run so far ahead that before
+the blind is opposite him the shack will have already vacated it.</p>
+
+<p>I dropped the last tramp by about fifty feet, and waited. The train
+started. I saw the lantern of the shack on the first blind. He was riding
+her out. And I saw the dubs stand forlornly by the track as the blind went
+by. They made no attempt to get on. They were beaten by their own
+inefficiency at the very start. After them, in the line-up, came the
+tramps that knew a little something about the game. They let the first
+blind, occupied by the shack, go by, and jumped on the second and third
+blinds. Of course, the shack jumped off the first and on to the second as
+it went by, and scrambled around there, throwing off the men who had
+boarded it. But the point is that I was so far ahead that when the first
+blind came opposite me, the shack had already left it and was tangled up
+with the tramps on the second blind. A half dozen of the more skilful
+tramps, who had run far enough ahead, made the first blind, too.</p>
+
+<p>At the next stop, as we ran forward along the track, I counted but fifteen
+of us. Five had been ditched. The weeding-out process had begun nobly, and
+it continued station by station. Now we were fourteen, now twelve, now
+eleven, now nine, now eight. It reminded me of the ten little niggers of
+the nursery rhyme. I was resolved that I should be the last little nigger
+of all. And why not? Was I not blessed with strength, agility, and youth?
+(I was eighteen, and in perfect condition.) And didn't I have my &quot;nerve&quot;
+with me? And furthermore, was I not a tramp-royal? Were not these other
+tramps mere dubs and &quot;gay-cats&quot; and amateurs alongside of me? If I weren't
+the last little nigger, I might as well quit the game and get a job on an
+alfalfa farm somewhere.</p>
+
+<p>By the time our number had been reduced to four, the whole train-crew had
+become interested. From then on it was a contest of skill and wits, with
+the odds in favor of the crew. One by one the three other survivors turned
+up missing, until I alone remained. My, but I was proud of myself! No
+Croesus was ever prouder of his first million. I was holding her down in
+spite of two brakemen, a conductor, a fireman, and an engineer.</p>
+
+<p>And here are a few samples of the way I held her down. Out ahead, in the
+darkness,&mdash;so far ahead that the shack riding out the blind must perforce
+get off before it reaches me,&mdash;I get on. Very well. I am good for another
+station. When that station is reached, I dart ahead again to repeat the
+manoeuvre. The train pulls out. I watch her coming. There is no light of a
+lantern on the blind. Has the crew abandoned the fight? I do not know. One
+never knows, and one must be prepared every moment for anything. As the
+first blind comes opposite me, and I run to leap aboard, I strain my eyes
+to see if the shack is on the platform. For all I know he may be there,
+with his lantern doused, and even as I spring upon the steps that lantern
+may smash down upon my head. I ought to know. I have been hit by lanterns
+two or three times.</p>
+
+<p>But no, the first blind is empty. The train is gathering speed. I am safe
+for another station. But am I? I feel the train slacken speed. On the
+instant I am alert. A manoeuvre is being executed against me, and I do not
+know what it is. I try to watch on both sides at once, not forgetting to
+keep track of the tender in front of me. From any one, or all, of these
+three directions, I may be assailed.</p>
+
+<p>Ah, there it comes. The shack has ridden out the engine. My first warning
+is when his feet strike the steps of the right-hand side of the blind.
+Like a flash I am off the blind to the left and running ahead past the
+engine. I lose myself in the darkness. The situation is where it has been
+ever since the train left Ottawa. I am ahead, and the train must come past
+me if it is to proceed on its journey. I have as good a chance as ever for
+boarding her.</p>
+
+<p>I watch carefully. I see a lantern come forward to the engine, and I do
+not see it go back from the engine. It must therefore be still on the
+engine, and it is a fair assumption that attached to the handle of that
+lantern is a shack. That shack was lazy, or else he would have put out his
+lantern instead of trying to shield it as he came forward. The train pulls
+out. The first blind is empty, and I gain it. As before the train
+slackens, the shack from the engine boards the blind from one side, and I
+go off the other side and run forward.</p>
+
+<p>As I wait in the darkness I am conscious of a big thrill of pride. The
+overland has stopped twice for me&mdash;for me, a poor hobo on the bum. I alone
+have twice stopped the overland with its many passengers and coaches, its
+government mail, and its two thousand steam horses straining in the
+engine. And I weigh only one hundred and sixty pounds, and I haven't a
+five-cent piece in my pocket!</p>
+
+<p>Again I see the lantern come forward to the engine. But this time it comes
+conspicuously. A bit too conspicuously to suit me, and I wonder what is
+up. At any rate I have something else to be afraid of than the shack on
+the engine. The train pulls by. Just in time, before I make my spring, I
+see the dark form of a shack, without a lantern, on the first blind. I let
+it go by, and prepare to board the second blind. But the shack on the
+first blind has jumped off and is at my heels. Also, I have a fleeting
+glimpse of the lantern of the shack who rode out the engine. He has jumped
+off, and now both shacks are on the ground on the same side with me. The
+next moment the second blind comes by and I am aboard it. But I do not
+linger. I have figured out my countermove. As I dash across the platform I
+hear the impact of the shack's feet against the steps as he boards. I jump
+off the other side and run forward with the train. My plan is to run
+forward and get on the first blind. It is nip and tuck, for the train is
+gathering speed. Also, the shack is behind me and running after me. I
+guess I am the better sprinter, for I make the first blind. I stand on the
+steps and watch my pursuer. He is only about ten feet back and running
+hard; but now the train has approximated his own speed, and, relative to
+me, he is standing still. I encourage him, hold out my hand to him; but he
+explodes in a mighty oath, gives up and makes the train several cars back.</p>
+
+<p>The train is speeding along, and I am still chuckling to myself, when,
+without warning, a spray of water strikes me. The fireman is playing the
+hose on me from the engine. I step forward from the car-platform to the
+rear of the tender, where I am sheltered under the overhang. The water
+flies harmlessly over my head. My fingers itch to climb up on the tender
+and lam that fireman with a chunk of coal; but I know if I do that, I'll
+be massacred by him and the engineer, and I refrain.</p>
+
+<p>At the next stop I am off and ahead in the darkness. This time, when the
+train pulls out, both shacks are on the first blind. I divine their game.
+They have blocked the repetition of my previous play. I cannot again take
+the second blind, cross over, and run forward to the first. As soon as
+the first blind passes and I do not get on, they swing off, one on each
+side of the train. I board the second blind, and as I do so I know that a
+moment later, simultaneously, those two shacks will arrive on both sides
+of me. It is like a trap. Both ways are blocked. Yet there is another way
+out, and that way is up.</p>
+
+<p>So I do not wait for my pursuers to arrive. I climb upon the upright
+ironwork of the platform and stand upon the wheel of the hand-brake. This
+has taken up the moment of grace and I hear the shacks strike the steps on
+either side. I don't stop to look. I raise my arms overhead until my hands
+rest against the down-curving ends of the roofs of the two cars. One hand,
+of course, is on the curved roof of one car, the other hand on the curved
+roof of the other car. By this time both shacks are coming up the steps. I
+know it, though I am too busy to see them. All this is happening in the
+space of only several seconds. I make a spring with my legs and &quot;muscle&quot;
+myself up with my arms. As I draw up my legs, both shacks reach for me and
+clutch empty air. I know this, for I look down and see them. Also I hear
+them swear.</p>
+
+<p>I am now in a precarious position, riding the ends of the down-curving
+roofs of two cars at the same time. With a quick, tense movement, I
+transfer both legs to the curve of one roof and both hands to the curve of
+the other roof. Then, gripping the edge of that curving roof, I climb over
+the curve to the level roof above, where I sit down to catch my breath,
+holding on the while to a ventilator that projects above the surface. I am
+on top of the train&mdash;on the &quot;decks,&quot; as the tramps call it, and this
+process I have described is by them called &quot;decking her.&quot; And let me say
+right here that only a young and vigorous tramp is able to deck a
+passenger train, and also, that the young and vigorous tramp must have his
+nerve with him as well.</p>
+
+<p>The train goes on gathering speed, and I know I am safe until the next
+stop&mdash;but only until the next stop. If I remain on the roof after the
+train stops, I know those shacks will fusillade me with rocks. A healthy
+shack can &quot;dewdrop&quot; a pretty heavy chunk of stone on top of a car&mdash;say
+anywhere from five to twenty pounds. On the other hand, the chances are
+large that at the next stop the shacks will be waiting for me to descend
+at the place I climbed up. It is up to me to climb down at some other
+platform.</p>
+
+<p>Registering a fervent hope that there are no tunnels in the next half
+mile, I rise to my feet and walk down the train half a dozen cars. And let
+me say that one must leave timidity behind him on such a <i>passear</i>. The
+roofs of passenger coaches are not made for midnight promenades. And if
+any one thinks they are, let me advise him to try it. Just let him walk
+along the roof of a jolting, lurching car, with nothing to hold on to but
+the black and empty air, and when he comes to the down-curving end of the
+roof, all wet and slippery with dew, let him accelerate his speed so as to
+step across to the next roof, down-curving and wet and slippery. Believe
+me, he will learn whether his heart is weak or his head is giddy.</p>
+
+<p>As the train slows down for a stop, half a dozen platforms from where I
+had decked her I come down. No one is on the platform. When the train
+comes to a standstill, I slip off to the ground. Ahead, and between me and
+the engine, are two moving lanterns. The shacks are looking for me on the
+roofs of the cars. I note that the car beside which I am standing is a
+&quot;four-wheeler&quot;&mdash;by which is meant that it has only four wheels to each
+truck. (When you go underneath on the rods, be sure to avoid the
+&quot;six-wheelers,&quot;&mdash;they lead to disasters.)</p>
+
+<p>I duck under the train and make for the rods, and I can tell you I am
+mighty glad that the train is standing still. It is the first time I have
+ever gone underneath on the Canadian Pacific, and the internal
+arrangements are new to me. I try to crawl over the top of the truck,
+between the truck and the bottom of the car. But the space is not large
+enough for me to squeeze through. This is new to me. Down in the United
+States I am accustomed to going underneath on rapidly moving trains,
+seizing a gunnel and swinging my feet under to the brake-beam, and from
+there crawling over the top of the truck and down inside the truck to a
+seat on the cross-rod.</p>
+
+<p>Feeling with my hands in the darkness, I learn that there is room between
+the brake-beam and the ground. It is a tight squeeze. I have to lie flat
+and worm my way through. Once inside the truck, I take my seat on the rod
+and wonder what the shacks are thinking has become of me. The train gets
+under way. They have given me up at last.</p>
+
+<p>But have they? At the very next stop, I see a lantern thrust under the
+next truck to mine at the other end of the car. They are searching the
+rods for me. I must make my get-away pretty lively. I crawl on my stomach
+under the brake-beam. They see me and run for me, but I crawl on hands and
+knees across the rail on the opposite side and gain my feet. Then away I
+go for the head of the train. I run past the engine and hide in the
+sheltering darkness. It is the same old situation. I am ahead of the
+train, and the train must go past me.</p>
+
+<p>The train pulls out. There is a lantern on the first blind. I lie low, and
+see the peering shack go by. But there is also a lantern on the second
+blind. That shack spots me and calls to the shack who has gone past on the
+first blind. Both jump off. Never mind, I'll take the third blind and deck
+her. But heavens, there is a lantern on the third blind, too. It is the
+conductor. I let it go by. At any rate I have now the full train-crew in
+front of me. I turn and run back in the opposite direction to what the
+train is going. I look over my shoulder. All three lanterns are on the
+ground and wobbling along in pursuit. I sprint. Half the train has gone
+by, and it is going quite fast, when I spring aboard. I know that the two
+shacks and the conductor will arrive like ravening wolves in about two
+seconds. I spring upon the wheel of the hand-brake, get my hands on the
+curved ends of the roofs, and muscle myself up to the decks; while my
+disappointed pursuers, clustering on the platform beneath like dogs that
+have treed a cat, howl curses up at me and say unsocial things about my
+ancestors.</p>
+
+<p>But what does that matter? It is five to one, including the engineer and
+fireman, and the majesty of the law and the might of a great corporation
+are behind them, and I am beating them out. I am too far down the train,
+and I run ahead over the roofs of the coaches until I am over the fifth or
+sixth platform from the engine. I peer down cautiously. A shack is on that
+platform. That he has caught sight of me, I know from the way he makes a
+swift sneak inside the car; and I know, also, that he is waiting inside
+the door, all ready to pounce out on me when I climb down. But I make
+believe that I don't know, and I remain there to encourage him in his
+error. I do not see him, yet I know that he opens the door once and peeps
+up to assure himself that I am still there.</p>
+
+<p>The train slows down for a station. I dangle my legs down in a tentative
+way. The train stops. My legs are still dangling. I hear the door unlatch
+softly. He is all ready for me. Suddenly I spring up and run forward over
+the roof. This is right over his head, where he lurks inside the door. The
+train is standing still; the night is quiet, and I take care to make
+plenty of noise on the metal roof with my feet. I don't know, but my
+assumption is that he is now running forward to catch me as I descend at
+the next platform. But I don't descend there. Halfway along the roof of
+the coach, I turn, retrace my way softly and quickly to the platform both
+the shack and I have just abandoned. The coast is clear. I descend to the
+ground on the off-side of the train and hide in the darkness. Not a soul
+has seen me.</p>
+
+<p>I go over to the fence, at the edge of the right of way, and watch. Ah,
+ha! What's that? I see a lantern on top of the train, moving along from
+front to rear. They think I haven't come down, and they are searching the
+roofs for me. And better than that&mdash;on the ground on each side of the
+train, moving abreast with the lantern on top, are two other lanterns. It
+is a rabbit-drive, and I am the rabbit. When the shack on top flushes me,
+the ones on each side will nab me. I roll a cigarette and watch the
+procession go by. Once past me, I am safe to proceed to the front of the
+train. She pulls out, and I make the front blind without opposition. But
+before she is fully under way and just as I am lighting my cigarette, I am
+aware that the fireman has climbed over the coal to the back of the tender
+and is looking down at me. I am filled with apprehension. From his
+position he can mash me to a jelly with lumps of coal. Instead of which he
+addresses me, and I note with relief the admiration in his voice.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You son-of-a-gun,&quot; is what he says.</p>
+
+<p>It is a high compliment, and I thrill as a schoolboy thrills on receiving
+a reward of merit.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Say,&quot; I call up to him, &quot;don't you play the hose on me any more.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;All right,&quot; he answers, and goes back to his work.</p>
+
+<p>I have made friends with the engine, but the shacks are still looking for
+me. At the next stop, the shacks ride out all three blinds, and as before,
+I let them go by and deck in the middle of the train. The crew is on its
+mettle by now, and the train stops. The shacks are going to ditch me or
+know the reason why. Three times the mighty overland stops for me at that
+station, and each time I elude the shacks and make the decks. But it is
+hopeless, for they have finally come to an understanding of the situation.
+I have taught them that they cannot guard the train from me. They must do
+something else.</p>
+
+<p>And they do it. When the train stops that last time, they take after me
+hot-footed. Ah, I see their game. They are trying to run me down. At first
+they herd me back toward the rear of the train. I know my peril. Once to
+the rear of the train, it will pull out with me left behind. I double, and
+twist, and turn, dodge through my pursuers, and gain the front of the
+train. One shack still hangs on after me. All right, I'll give him the run
+of his life, for my wind is good. I run straight ahead along the track. It
+doesn't matter. If he chases me ten miles, he'll nevertheless have to
+catch the train, and I can board her at any speed that he can.</p>
+
+<p>So I run on, keeping just comfortably ahead of him and straining my eyes
+in the gloom for cattle-guards and switches that may bring me to grief.
+Alas! I strain my eyes too far ahead, and trip over something just under
+my feet, I know not what, some little thing, and go down to earth in a
+long, stumbling fall. The next moment I am on my feet, but the shack has
+me by the collar. I do not struggle. I am busy with breathing deeply and
+with sizing him up. He is narrow-shouldered, and I have at least thirty
+pounds the better of him in weight. Besides, he is just as tired as I am,
+and if he tries to slug me, I'll teach him a few things.</p>
+
+<p>But he doesn't try to slug me, and that problem is settled. Instead, he
+starts to lead me back toward the train, and another possible problem
+arises. I see the lanterns of the conductor and the other shack. We are
+approaching them. Not for nothing have I made the acquaintance of the New
+York police. Not for nothing, in box-cars, by water-tanks, and in
+prison-cells, have I listened to bloody tales of man-handling. What if
+these three men are about to man-handle me? Heaven knows I have given them
+provocation enough. I think quickly. We are drawing nearer and nearer to
+the other two trainmen. I line up the stomach and the jaw of my captor,
+and plan the right and left I'll give him at the first sign of trouble.</p>
+
+<p>Pshaw! I know another trick I'd like to work on him, and I almost regret
+that I did not do it at the moment I was captured. I could make him sick,
+what of his clutch on my collar. His fingers, tight-gripping, are buried
+inside my collar. My coat is tightly buttoned. Did you ever see a
+tourniquet? Well, this is one. All I have to do is to duck my head under
+his arm and begin to twist. I must twist rapidly&mdash;very rapidly. I know how
+to do it; twisting in a violent, jerky way, ducking my head under his arm
+with each revolution. Before he knows it, those detaining fingers of his
+will be detained. He will be unable to withdraw them. It is a powerful
+leverage. Twenty seconds after I have started revolving, the blood will be
+bursting out of his finger-ends, the delicate tendons will be rupturing,
+and all the muscles and nerves will be mashing and crushing together in a
+shrieking mass. Try it sometime when somebody has you by the collar. But
+be quick&mdash;quick as lightning. Also, be sure to hug yourself while you are
+revolving&mdash;hug your face with your left arm and your abdomen with your
+right. You see, the other fellow might try to stop you with a punch from
+his free arm. It would be a good idea, too, to revolve away from that free
+arm rather than toward it. A punch going is never so bad as a punch
+coming.</p>
+
+<p>That shack will never know how near he was to being made very, very sick.
+All that saves him is that it is not in their plan to man-handle me. When
+we draw near enough, he calls out that he has me, and they signal the
+train to come on. The engine passes us, and the three blinds. After that,
+the conductor and the other shack swing aboard. But still my captor holds
+on to me. I see the plan. He is going to hold me until the rear of the
+train goes by. Then he will hop on, and I shall be left behind&mdash;ditched.</p>
+
+<p>But the train has pulled out fast, the engineer trying to make up for lost
+time. Also, it is a long train. It is going very lively, and I know the
+shack is measuring its speed with apprehension.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Think you can make it?&quot; I query innocently.</p>
+
+<p>He releases my collar, makes a quick run, and swings aboard. A number of
+coaches are yet to pass by. He knows it, and remains on the steps, his
+head poked out and watching me. In that moment my next move comes to me.
+I'll make the last platform. I know she's going fast and faster, but I'll
+only get a roll in the dirt if I fail, and the optimism of youth is mine.
+I do not give myself away. I stand with a dejected droop of shoulder,
+advertising that I have abandoned hope. But at the same time I am feeling
+with my feet the good gravel. It is perfect footing. Also I am watching
+the poked-out head of the shack. I see it withdrawn. He is confident that
+the train is going too fast for me ever to make it.</p>
+
+<p>And the train <i>is</i> going fast&mdash;faster than any train I have ever tackled.
+As the last coach comes by I sprint in the same direction with it. It is a
+swift, short sprint. I cannot hope to equal the speed of the train, but I
+can reduce the difference of our speed to the minimum, and, hence, reduce
+the shock of impact, when I leap on board. In the fleeting instant of
+darkness I do not see the iron hand-rail of the last platform; nor is
+there time for me to locate it. I reach for where I think it ought to be,
+and at the same instant my feet leave the ground. It is all in the toss.
+The next moment I may be rolling in the gravel with broken ribs, or arms,
+or head. But my fingers grip the hand-hold, there is a jerk on my arms
+that slightly pivots my body, and my feet land on the steps with sharp
+violence.</p>
+
+<p>I sit down, feeling very proud of myself. In all my hoboing it is the best
+bit of train-jumping I have done. I know that late at night one is always
+good for several stations on the last platform, but I do not care to trust
+myself at the rear of the train. At the first stop I run forward on the
+off-side of the train, pass the Pullmans, and duck under and take a rod
+under a day-coach. At the next stop I run forward again and take another
+rod.</p>
+
+<p>I am now comparatively safe. The shacks think I am ditched. But the long
+day and the strenuous night are beginning to tell on me. Also, it is not
+so windy nor cold underneath, and I begin to doze. This will never do.
+Sleep on the rods spells death, so I crawl out at a station and go forward
+to the second blind. Here I can lie down and sleep; and here I do
+sleep&mdash;how long I do not know&mdash;for I am awakened by a lantern thrust into
+my face. The two shacks are staring at me. I scramble up on the defensive,
+wondering as to which one is going to make the first &quot;pass&quot; at me. But
+slugging is far from their minds.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I thought you was ditched,&quot; says the shack who had held me by the collar.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;If you hadn't let go of me when you did, you'd have been ditched along
+with me,&quot; I answer.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;How's that?&quot; he asks.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I'd have gone into a clinch with you, that's all,&quot; is my reply.</p>
+
+<p>They hold a consultation, and their verdict is summed up in:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Well, I guess you can ride, Bo. There's no use trying to keep you off.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>And they go away and leave me in peace to the end of their division.</p>
+
+<p>I have given the foregoing as a sample of what &quot;holding her down&quot; means.
+Of course, I have selected a fortunate night out of my experiences, and
+said nothing of the nights&mdash;and many of them&mdash;when I was tripped up by
+accident and ditched.</p>
+
+<p>In conclusion, I want to tell of what happened when I reached the end of
+the division. On single-track, transcontinental lines, the freight trains
+wait at the divisions and follow out after the passenger trains. When the
+division was reached, I left my train, and looked for the freight that
+would pull out behind it. I found the freight, made up on a side-track and
+waiting. I climbed into a box-car half full of coal and lay down. In no
+time I was asleep.</p>
+
+<p>I was awakened by the sliding open of the door. Day was just dawning, cold
+and gray, and the freight had not yet started. A &quot;con&quot; (conductor) was
+poking his head inside the door.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Get out of that, you blankety-blank-blank!&quot; he roared at me.</p>
+
+<p>I got, and outside I watched him go down the line inspecting every car in
+the train. When he got out of sight I thought to myself that he would
+never think I'd have the nerve to climb back into the very car out of
+which he had fired me. So back I climbed and lay down again.</p>
+
+<p>Now that con's mental processes must have been paralleling mine, for he
+reasoned that it was the very thing I would do. For back he came and fired
+me out.</p>
+
+<p>Now, surely, I reasoned, he will never dream that I'd do it a third time.
+Back I went, into the very same car. But I decided to make sure. Only one
+side-door could be opened. The other side-door was nailed up. Beginning at
+the top of the coal, I dug a hole alongside of that door and lay down in
+it. I heard the other door open. The con climbed up and looked in over the
+top of the coal. He couldn't see me. He called to me to get out. I tried
+to fool him by remaining quiet. But when he began tossing chunks of coal
+into the hole on top of me, I gave up and for the third time was fired
+out. Also, he informed me in warm terms of what would happen to me if he
+caught me in there again.</p>
+
+<p>I changed my tactics. When a man is paralleling your mental processes,
+ditch him. Abruptly break off your line of reasoning, and go off on a new
+line. This I did. I hid between some cars on an adjacent side-track, and
+watched. Sure enough, that con came back again to the car. He opened the
+door, he climbed up, he called, he threw coal into the hole I had made. He
+even crawled over the coal and looked into the hole. That satisfied him.
+Five minutes later the freight was pulling out, and he was not in sight. I
+ran alongside the car, pulled the door open, and climbed in. He never
+looked for me again, and I rode that coal-car precisely one thousand and
+twenty-two miles, sleeping most of the time and getting out at divisions
+(where the freights always stop for an hour or so) to beg my food. And at
+the end of the thousand and twenty-two miles I lost that car through a
+happy incident. I got a &quot;set-down,&quot; and the tramp doesn't live who won't
+miss a train for a set-down any time.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Pictures" id="Pictures" /><i>Pictures</i></h2>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span>&quot;What do it matter where or 'ow we die,<br /></span>
+<span>So long as we've our 'ealth to watch it all?&quot;<br /></span>
+<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash;<i>Sestina of the Tramp-Royal</i></p>
+</div></div>
+
+
+<p>Perhaps the greatest charm of tramp-life is the absence of monotony. In
+Hobo Land the face of life is protean&mdash;an ever changing phantasmagoria,
+where the impossible happens and the unexpected jumps out of the bushes at
+every turn of the road. The hobo never knows what is going to happen the
+next moment; hence, he lives only in the present moment. He has learned
+the futility of telic endeavor, and knows the delight of drifting along
+with the whimsicalities of Chance.</p>
+
+<p>Often I think over my tramp days, and ever I marvel at the swift
+succession of pictures that flash up in my memory. It matters not where I
+begin to think; any day of all the days is a day apart, with a record of
+swift-moving pictures all its own. For instance, I remember a sunny summer
+morning in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, and immediately comes to my mind the
+auspicious beginning of the day&mdash;a &quot;set-down&quot; with two maiden ladies, and
+not in their kitchen, but in their dining room, with them beside me at the
+table. We ate eggs, out of egg-cups! It was the first time I had ever seen
+egg-cups, or heard of egg-cups! I was a bit awkward at first, I'll
+confess; but I was hungry and unabashed. I mastered the egg-cup, and I
+mastered the eggs in a way that made those two maiden ladies sit up.</p>
+
+<p>Why, they ate like a couple of canaries, dabbling with the one egg each
+they took, and nibbling at tiny wafers of toast. Life was low in their
+bodies; their blood ran thin; and they had slept warm all night. I had
+been out all night, consuming much fuel of my body to keep warm, beating
+my way down from a place called Emporium, in the northern part of the
+state. Wafers of toast! Out of sight! But each wafer was no more than a
+mouthful to me&mdash;nay, no more than a bite. It is tedious to have to reach
+for another piece of toast each bite when one is potential with many
+bites.</p>
+
+<p>When I was a very little lad, I had a very little dog called Punch. I saw
+to his feeding myself. Some one in the household had shot a lot of ducks,
+and we had a fine meat dinner. When I had finished, I prepared Punch's
+dinner&mdash;a large plateful of bones and tidbits. I went outside to give it
+to him. Now it happened that a visitor had ridden over from a neighboring
+ranch, and with him had come a Newfoundland dog as big as a calf. I set
+the plate on the ground. Punch wagged his tail and began. He had before
+him a blissful half-hour at least. There was a sudden rush. Punch was
+brushed aside like a straw in the path of a cyclone, and that Newfoundland
+swooped down upon the plate. In spite of his huge maw he must have been
+trained to quick lunches, for, in the fleeting instant before he received
+the kick in the ribs I aimed at him, he completely engulfed the contents
+of the plate. He swept it clean. One last lingering lick of his tongue
+removed even the grease stains.</p>
+
+<p>As that big Newfoundland behaved at the plate of my dog Punch, so behaved
+I at the table of those two maiden ladies of Harrisburg. I swept it bare.
+I didn't break anything, but I cleaned out the eggs and the toast and the
+coffee. The servant brought more, but I kept her busy, and ever she
+brought more and more. The coffee was delicious, but it needn't have been
+served in such tiny cups. What time had I to eat when it took all my time
+to prepare the many cups of coffee for drinking?</p>
+
+<p>At any rate, it gave my tongue time to wag. Those two maiden ladies, with
+their pink-and-white complexions and gray curls, had never looked upon the
+bright face of adventure. As the &quot;Tramp-Royal&quot; would have it, they had
+worked all their lives &quot;on one same shift.&quot; Into the sweet scents and
+narrow confines of their uneventful existence I brought the large airs of
+the world, freighted with the lusty smells of sweat and strife, and with
+the tangs and odors of strange lands and soils. And right well I scratched
+their soft palms with the callous on my own palms&mdash;the half-inch horn that
+comes of pull-and-haul of rope and long and arduous hours of caressing
+shovel-handles. This I did, not merely in the braggadocio of youth, but to
+prove, by toil performed, the claim I had upon their charity.</p>
+
+<p>Ah, I can see them now, those dear, sweet ladies, just as I sat at their
+breakfast table twelve years ago, discoursing upon the way of my feet in
+the world, brushing aside their kindly counsel as a real devilish fellow
+should, and thrilling them, not alone with my own adventures, but with the
+adventures of all the other fellows with whom I had rubbed shoulders and
+exchanged confidences. I appropriated them all, the adventures of the
+other fellows, I mean; and if those maiden ladies had been less trustful
+and guileless, they could have tangled me up beautifully in my chronology.
+Well, well, and what of it? It was fair exchange. For their many cups of
+coffee, and eggs, and bites of toast, I gave full value. Right royally I
+gave them entertainment. My coming to sit at their table was their
+adventure, and adventure is beyond price anyway.</p>
+
+<p>Coming along the street, after parting from the maiden ladies, I gathered
+in a newspaper from the doorway of some late-riser, and in a grassy park
+lay down to get in touch with the last twenty-four hours of the world.
+There, in the park, I met a fellow-hobo who told me his life-story and who
+wrestled with me to join the United States Army. He had given in to the
+recruiting officer and was just about to join, and he couldn't see why I
+shouldn't join with him. He had been a member of Coxey's Army in the march
+to Washington several months before, and that seemed to have given him a
+taste for army life. I, too, was a veteran, for had I not been a private
+in Company L of the Second Division of Kelly's Industrial Army?&mdash;said
+Company L being commonly known as the &quot;Nevada push.&quot; But my army
+experience had had the opposite effect on me; so I left that hobo to go
+his way to the dogs of war, while I &quot;threw my feet&quot; for dinner.</p>
+
+<p>This duty performed, I started to walk across the bridge over the
+Susquehanna to the west shore. I forget the name of the railroad that ran
+down that side, but while lying in the grass in the morning the idea had
+come to me to go to Baltimore; so to Baltimore I was going on that
+railroad, whatever its name was. It was a warm afternoon, and part way
+across the bridge I came to a lot of fellows who were in swimming off one
+of the piers. Off went my clothes and in went I. The water was fine; but
+when I came out and dressed, I found I had been robbed. Some one had gone
+through my clothes. Now I leave it to you if being robbed isn't in itself
+adventure enough for one day. I have known men who have been robbed and
+who have talked all the rest of their lives about it. True, the thief that
+went through my clothes didn't get much&mdash;some thirty or forty cents in
+nickels and pennies, and my tobacco and cigarette papers; but it was all I
+had, which is more than most men can be robbed of, for they have something
+left at home, while I had no home. It was a pretty tough gang in swimming
+there. I sized up, and knew better than to squeal. So I begged &quot;the
+makings,&quot; and I could have sworn it was one of my own papers I rolled the
+tobacco in.</p>
+
+<p>Then on across the bridge I hiked to the west shore. Here ran the railroad
+I was after. No station was in sight. How to catch a freight without
+walking to a station was the problem. I noticed that the track came up a
+steep grade, culminating at the point where I had tapped it, and I knew
+that a heavy freight couldn't pull up there any too lively. But how
+lively? On the opposite side of the track rose a high bank. On the edge,
+at the top, I saw a man's head sticking up from the grass. Perhaps he knew
+how fast the freights took the grade, and when the next one went south. I
+called out my questions to him, and he motioned to me to come up.</p>
+
+<p>I obeyed, and when I reached the top, I found four other men lying in the
+grass with him. I took in the scene and knew them for what they
+were&mdash;American gypsies. In the open space that extended back among the
+trees from the edge of the bank were several nondescript wagons. Ragged,
+half-naked children swarmed over the camp, though I noticed that they took
+care not to come near and bother the men-folk. Several lean, unbeautiful,
+and toil-degraded women were pottering about with camp-chores, and one I
+noticed who sat by herself on the seat of one of the wagons, her head
+drooped forward, her knees drawn up to her chin and clasped limply by her
+arms. She did not look happy. She looked as if she did not care for
+anything&mdash;in this I was wrong, for later I was to learn that there was
+something for which she did care. The full measure of human suffering was
+in her face, and, in addition, there was the tragic expression of
+incapacity for further suffering. Nothing could hurt any more, was what
+her face seemed to portray; but in this, too, I was wrong.</p>
+
+<p>I lay in the grass on the edge of the steep and talked with the men-folk.
+We were kin&mdash;brothers. I was the American hobo, and they were the American
+gypsy. I knew enough of their argot for conversation, and they knew enough
+of mine. There were two more in their gang, who were across the river
+&quot;mushing&quot; in Harrisburg. A &quot;musher&quot; is an itinerant fakir. This word is
+not to be confounded with the Klondike &quot;musher,&quot; though the origin of both
+terms may be the same; namely, the corruption of the French <i>marche ons</i>,
+to march, to walk, to &quot;mush.&quot; The particular graft of the two mushers who
+had crossed the river was umbrella-mending; but what real graft lay behind
+their umbrella-mending, I was not told, nor would it have been polite to
+ask.</p>
+
+<p>It was a glorious day. Not a breath of wind was stirring, and we basked in
+the shimmering warmth of the sun. From everywhere arose the drowsy hum of
+insects, and the balmy air was filled with scents of the sweet earth and
+the green growing things. We were too lazy to do more than mumble on in
+intermittent conversation. And then, all abruptly, the peace and quietude
+was jarred awry by man.</p>
+
+<p>Two bare-legged boys of eight or nine in some minor way broke some rule of
+the camp&mdash;what it was I did not know; and a man who lay beside me suddenly
+sat up and called to them. He was chief of the tribe, a man with narrow
+forehead and narrow-slitted eyes, whose thin lips and twisted sardonic
+features explained why the two boys jumped and tensed like startled deer
+at the sound of his voice. The alertness of fear was in their faces, and
+they turned, in a panic, to run. He called to them to come back, and one
+boy lagged behind reluctantly, his meagre little frame portraying in
+pantomime the struggle within him between fear and reason. He wanted to
+come back. His intelligence and past experience told him that to come back
+was a lesser evil than to run on; but lesser evil that it was, it was
+great enough to put wings to his fear and urge his feet to flight.</p>
+
+<p>Still he lagged and struggled until he reached the shelter of the trees,
+where he halted. The chief of the tribe did not pursue. He sauntered over
+to a wagon and picked up a heavy whip. Then he came back to the centre of
+the open space and stood still. He did not speak. He made no gestures. He
+was the Law, pitiless and omnipotent. He merely stood there and waited.
+And I knew, and all knew, and the two boys in the shelter of the trees
+knew, for what he waited.</p>
+
+<p>The boy who had lagged slowly came back. His face was stamped with
+quivering resolution. He did not falter. He had made up his mind to take
+his punishment. And mark you, the punishment was not for the original
+offence, but for the offence of running away. And in this, that tribal
+chieftain but behaved as behaves the exalted society in which he lived. We
+punish our criminals, and when they escape and run away, we bring them
+back and add to their punishment.</p>
+
+<p>Straight up to the chief the boy came, halting at the proper distance for
+the swing of the lash. The whip hissed through the air, and I caught
+myself with a start of surprise at the weight of the blow. The thin little
+leg was so very thin and little. The flesh showed white where the lash had
+curled and bitten, and then, where the white had shown, sprang up the
+savage welt, with here and there along its length little scarlet oozings
+where the skin had broken. Again the whip swung, and the boy's whole body
+winced in anticipation of the blow, though he did not move from the spot.
+His will held good. A second welt sprang up, and a third. It was not until
+the fourth landed that the boy screamed. Also, he could no longer stand
+still, and from then on, blow after blow, he danced up and down in his
+anguish, screaming; but he did not attempt to run away. If his involuntary
+dancing took him beyond the reach of the whip, he danced back into range
+again. And when it was all over&mdash;a dozen blows&mdash;he went away, whimpering
+and squealing, among the wagons.</p>
+
+<p>The chief stood still and waited. The second boy came out from the trees.
+But he did not come straight. He came like a cringing dog, obsessed by
+little panics that made him turn and dart away for half a dozen steps. But
+always he turned and came back, circling nearer and nearer to the man,
+whimpering, making inarticulate animal-noises in his throat. I saw that he
+never looked at the man. His eyes always were fixed upon the whip, and in
+his eyes was a terror that made me sick&mdash;the frantic terror of an
+inconceivably maltreated child. I have seen strong men dropping right and
+left out of battle and squirming in their death-throes, I have seen them
+by scores blown into the air by bursting shells and their bodies torn
+asunder; believe me, the witnessing was as merrymaking and laughter and
+song to me in comparison with the way the sight of that poor child
+affected me.</p>
+
+<p>The whipping began. The whipping of the first boy was as play compared
+with this one. In no time the blood was running down his thin little legs.
+He danced and squirmed and doubled up till it seemed almost that he was
+some grotesque marionette operated by strings. I say &quot;seemed,&quot; for his
+screaming gave the lie to the seeming and stamped it with reality. His
+shrieks were shrill and piercing; within them no hoarse notes, but only
+the thin sexlessness of the voice of a child. The time came when the boy
+could stand it no more. Reason fled, and he tried to run away. But now the
+man followed up, curbing his flight, herding him with blows back always
+into the open space.</p>
+
+<p>Then came interruption. I heard a wild smothered cry. The woman who sat in
+the wagon seat had got out and was running to interfere. She sprang
+between the man and boy.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You want some, eh?&quot; said he with the whip. &quot;All right, then.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He swung the whip upon her. Her skirts were long, so he did not try for
+her legs. He drove the lash for her face, which she shielded as best she
+could with her hands and forearms, drooping her head forward between her
+lean shoulders, and on the lean shoulders and arms receiving the blows.
+Heroic mother! She knew just what she was doing. The boy, still shrieking,
+was making his get-away to the wagons.</p>
+
+<p>And all the while the four men lay beside me and watched and made no move.
+Nor did I move, and without shame I say it; though my reason was compelled
+to struggle hard against my natural impulse to rise up and interfere. I
+knew life. Of what use to the woman, or to me, would be my being beaten to
+death by five men there on the bank of the Susquehanna? I once saw a man
+hanged, and though my whole soul cried protest, my mouth cried not. Had it
+cried, I should most likely have had my skull crushed by the butt of a
+revolver, for it was the law that the man should hang. And here, in this
+gypsy group, it was the law that the woman should be whipped.</p>
+
+<p>Even so, the reason in both cases that I did not interfere was not that it
+was the law, but that the law was stronger than I. Had it not been for
+those four men beside me in the grass, right gladly would I have waded
+into the man with the whip. And, barring the accident of the landing on me
+with a knife or a club in the hands of some of the various women of the
+camp, I am confident that I should have beaten him into a mess. But the
+four men <i>were</i> beside me in the grass. They made their law stronger than
+I.</p>
+
+<p>Oh, believe me, I did my own suffering. I had seen women beaten before,
+often, but never had I seen such a beating as this. Her dress across the
+shoulders was cut into shreds. One blow that had passed her guard, had
+raised a bloody welt from cheek to chin. Not one blow, nor two, not one
+dozen, nor two dozen, but endlessly, infinitely, that whip-lash smote and
+curled about her. The sweat poured from me, and I breathed hard, clutching
+at the grass with my hands until I strained it out by the roots. And all
+the time my reason kept whispering, &quot;Fool! Fool!&quot; That welt on the face
+nearly did for me. I started to rise to my feet; but the hand of the man
+next to me went out to my shoulder and pressed me down.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Easy, pardner, easy,&quot; he warned me in a low voice. I looked at him. His
+eyes met mine unwaveringly. He was a large man, broad-shouldered and
+heavy-muscled; and his face was lazy, phlegmatic, slothful, withal kindly,
+yet without passion, and quite soulless&mdash;a dim soul, unmalicious, unmoral,
+bovine, and stubborn. Just an animal he was, with no more than a faint
+flickering of intelligence, a good-natured brute with the strength and
+mental caliber of a gorilla. His hand pressed heavily upon me, and I knew
+the weight of the muscles behind. I looked at the other brutes, two of
+them unperturbed and incurious, and one of them that gloated over the
+spectacle; and my reason came back to me, my muscles relaxed, and I sank
+down in the grass.</p>
+
+<p>My mind went back to the two maiden ladies with whom I had had breakfast
+that morning. Less than two miles, as the crow flies, separated them from
+this scene. Here, in the windless day, under a beneficent sun, was a
+sister of theirs being beaten by a brother of mine. Here was a page of
+life they could never see&mdash;and better so, though for lack of seeing they
+would never be able to understand their sisterhood, nor themselves, nor
+know the clay of which they were made. For it is not given to woman to
+live in sweet-scented, narrow rooms and at the same time be a little
+sister to all the world.</p>
+
+<p>The whipping was finished, and the woman, no longer screaming, went back
+to her seat in the wagon. Nor did the other women come to her&mdash;just then.
+They were afraid. But they came afterward, when a decent interval had
+elapsed. The man put the whip away and rejoined us, flinging himself down
+on the other side of me. He was breathing hard from his exertions. He
+wiped the sweat from his eyes on his coat-sleeve, and looked challengingly
+at me. I returned his look carelessly; what he had done was no concern of
+mine. I did not go away abruptly. I lay there half an hour longer, which,
+under the circumstances, was tact and etiquette. I rolled cigarettes from
+tobacco I borrowed from them, and when I slipped down the bank to the
+railroad, I was equipped with the necessary information for catching the
+next freight bound south.</p>
+
+<p>Well, and what of it? It was a page out of life, that's all; and there are
+many pages worse, far worse, that I have seen. I have sometimes held forth
+(facetiously, so my listeners believed) that the chief distinguishing
+trait between man and the other animals is that man is the only animal
+that maltreats the females of his kind. It is something of which no wolf
+nor cowardly coyote is ever guilty. It is something that even the dog,
+degenerated by domestication, will not do. The dog still retains the wild
+instinct in this matter, while man has lost most of his wild instincts&mdash;at
+least, most of the good ones.</p>
+
+<p>Worse pages of life than what I have described? Read the reports on child
+labor in the United States,&mdash;east, west, north, and south, it doesn't
+matter where,&mdash;and know that all of us, profit-mongers that we are, are
+typesetters and printers of worse pages of life than that mere page of
+wife-beating on the Susquehanna.</p>
+
+<p>I went down the grade a hundred yards to where the footing beside the
+track was good. Here I could catch my freight as it pulled slowly up the
+hill, and here I found half a dozen hoboes waiting for the same purpose.
+Several were playing seven-up with an old pack of cards. I took a hand. A
+coon began to shuffle the deck. He was fat, and young, and moon-faced. He
+beamed with good-nature. It fairly oozed from him. As he dealt the first
+card to me, he paused and said:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Say, Bo, ain't I done seen you befo'?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You sure have,&quot; I answered. &quot;An' you didn't have those same duds on,
+either.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He was puzzled.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;D'ye remember Buffalo?&quot; I queried.</p>
+
+<p>Then he knew me, and with laughter and ejaculation hailed me as a comrade;
+for at Buffalo his clothes had been striped while he did his bit of time
+in the Erie County Penitentiary. For that matter, my clothes had been
+likewise striped, for I had been doing my bit of time, too.</p>
+
+<p>The game proceeded, and I learned the stake for which we played. Down the
+bank toward the river descended a steep and narrow path that led to a
+spring some twenty-five feet beneath. We played on the edge of the bank.
+The man who was &quot;stuck&quot; had to take a small condensed-milk can, and with
+it carry water to the winners.</p>
+
+<p>The first game was played and the coon was stuck. He took the small
+milk-tin and climbed down the bank, while we sat above and guyed him. We
+drank like fish. Four round trips he had to make for me alone, and the
+others were equally lavish with their thirst. The path was very steep, and
+sometimes the coon slipped when part way up, spilled the water, and had to
+go back for more. But he didn't get angry. He laughed as heartily as any
+of us; that was why he slipped so often. Also, he assured us of the
+prodigious quantities of water he would drink when some one else got
+stuck.</p>
+
+<p>When our thirst was quenched, another game was started. Again the coon was
+stuck, and again we drank our fill. A third game and a fourth ended the
+same way, and each time that moon-faced darky nearly died with delight at
+appreciation of the fate that Chance was dealing out to him. And we nearly
+died with him, what of our delight. We laughed like careless children, or
+gods, there on the edge of the bank. I know that I laughed till it seemed
+the top of my head would come off, and I drank from the milk-tin till I
+was nigh waterlogged. Serious discussion arose as to whether we could
+successfully board the freight when it pulled up the grade, what of the
+weight of water secreted on our persons. This particular phase of the
+situation just about finished the coon. He had to break off from
+water-carrying for at least five minutes while he lay down and rolled with
+laughter.</p>
+
+<p>The lengthening shadows stretched farther and farther across the river,
+and the soft, cool twilight came on, and ever we drank water, and ever our
+ebony cup-bearer brought more and more. Forgotten was the beaten woman of
+the hour before. That was a page read and turned over; I was busy now with
+this new page, and when the engine whistled on the grade, this page would
+be finished and another begun; and so the book of life goes on, page after
+page and pages without end&mdash;when one is young.</p>
+
+<p>And then we played a game in which the coon failed to be stuck. The victim
+was a lean and dyspeptic-looking hobo, the one who had laughed least of
+all of us. We said we didn't want any water&mdash;which was the truth. Not the
+wealth of Ormuz and of Ind, nor the pressure of a pneumatic ram, could
+have forced another drop into my saturated carcass. The coon looked
+disappointed, then rose to the occasion and guessed he'd have some. He
+meant it, too. He had some, and then some, and then some. Ever the
+melancholy hobo climbed down and up the steep bank, and ever the coon
+called for more. He drank more water than all the rest of us put together.
+The twilight deepened into night, the stars came out, and he still drank
+on. I do believe that if the whistle of the freight hadn't sounded, he'd
+be there yet, swilling water and revenge while the melancholy hobo toiled
+down and up.</p>
+
+<p>But the whistle sounded. The page was done. We sprang to our feet and
+strung out alongside the track. There she came, coughing and spluttering
+up the grade, the headlight turning night into day and silhouetting us in
+sharp relief. The engine passed us, and we were all running with the
+train, some boarding on the side-ladders, others &quot;springing&quot; the
+side-doors of empty box-cars and climbing in. I caught a flat-car loaded
+with mixed lumber and crawled away into a comfortable nook. I lay on my
+back with a newspaper under my head for a pillow. Above me the stars were
+winking and wheeling in squadrons back and forth as the train rounded the
+curves, and watching them I fell asleep. The day was done&mdash;one day of all
+my days. To-morrow would be another day, and I was young.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Pinchedquot" id="Pinchedquot" /><i>&quot;Pinched&quot;</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>I rode into Niagara Falls in a &quot;side-door Pullman,&quot; or, in common
+parlance, a box-car. A flat-car, by the way, is known amongst the
+fraternity as a &quot;gondola,&quot; with the second syllable emphasized and
+pronounced long. But to return. I arrived in the afternoon and headed
+straight from the freight train to the falls. Once my eyes were filled
+with that wonder-vision of down-rushing water, I was lost. I could not
+tear myself away long enough to &quot;batter&quot; the &quot;privates&quot; (domiciles) for my
+supper. Even a &quot;set-down&quot; could not have lured me away. Night came on, a
+beautiful night of moonlight, and I lingered by the falls until after
+eleven. Then it was up to me to hunt for a place to &quot;kip.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Kip,&quot; &quot;doss,&quot; &quot;flop,&quot; &quot;pound your ear,&quot; all mean the same thing; namely,
+to sleep. Somehow, I had a &quot;hunch&quot; that Niagara Falls was a &quot;bad&quot; town for
+hoboes, and I headed out into the country. I climbed a fence and &quot;flopped&quot;
+in a field. John Law would never find me there, I flattered myself. I lay
+on my back in the grass and slept like a babe. It was so balmy warm that I
+woke up not once all night. But with the first gray daylight my eyes
+opened, and I remembered the wonderful falls. I climbed the fence and
+started down the road to have another look at them. It was early&mdash;not more
+than five o'clock&mdash;and not until eight o'clock could I begin to batter for
+my breakfast. I could spend at least three hours by the river. Alas! I was
+fated never to see the river nor the falls again.</p>
+
+<p>The town was asleep when I entered it. As I came along the quiet street, I
+saw three men coming toward me along the sidewalk. They were walking
+abreast. Hoboes, I decided, like myself, who had got up early. In this
+surmise I was not quite correct. I was only sixty-six and two-thirds per
+cent correct. The men on each side were hoboes all right, but the man in
+the middle wasn't. I directed my steps to the edge of the sidewalk in
+order to let the trio go by. But it didn't go by. At some word from the
+man in the centre, all three halted, and he of the centre addressed me.</p>
+
+<p>I piped the lay on the instant. He was a &quot;fly-cop&quot; and the two hoboes
+were his prisoners. John Law was up and out after the early worm. I was a
+worm. Had I been richer by the experiences that were to befall me in the
+next several months, I should have turned and run like the very devil. He
+might have shot at me, but he'd have had to hit me to get me. He'd have
+never run after me, for two hoboes in the hand are worth more than one on
+the get-away. But like a dummy I stood still when he halted me. Our
+conversation was brief.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;What hotel are you stopping at?&quot; he queried.</p>
+
+<p>He had me. I wasn't stopping at any hotel, and, since I did not know the
+name of a hotel in the place, I could not claim residence in any of them.
+Also, I was up too early in the morning. Everything was against me.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I just arrived,&quot; I said.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Well, you turn around and walk in front of me, and not too far in front.
+There's somebody wants to see you.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I was &quot;pinched.&quot; I knew who wanted to see me. With that &quot;fly-cop&quot; and the
+two hoboes at my heels, and under the direction of the former, I led the
+way to the city jail. There we were searched and our names registered. I
+have forgotten, now, under which name I was registered. I gave the name of
+Jack Drake, but when they searched me, they found letters addressed to
+Jack London. This caused trouble and required explanation, all of which
+has passed from my mind, and to this day I do not know whether I was
+pinched as Jack Drake or Jack London. But one or the other, it should be
+there to-day in the prison register of Niagara Falls. Reference can bring
+it to light. The time was somewhere in the latter part of June, 1894. It
+was only a few days after my arrest that the great railroad strike began.</p>
+
+<p>From the office we were led to the &quot;Hobo&quot; and locked in. The &quot;Hobo&quot; is
+that part of a prison where the minor offenders are confined together in a
+large iron cage. Since hoboes constitute the principal division of the
+minor offenders, the aforesaid iron cage is called the Hobo. Here we met
+several hoboes who had already been pinched that morning, and every little
+while the door was unlocked and two or three more were thrust in on us. At
+last, when we totalled sixteen, we were led upstairs into the court-room.
+And now I shall faithfully describe what took place in that court-room,
+for know that my patriotic American citizenship there received a shock
+from which it has never fully recovered.</p>
+
+<p>In the court-room were the sixteen prisoners, the judge, and two bailiffs.
+The judge seemed to act as his own clerk. There were no witnesses. There
+were no citizens of Niagara Falls present to look on and see how justice
+was administered in their community. The judge glanced at the list of
+cases before him and called out a name. A hobo stood up. The judge glanced
+at a bailiff. &quot;Vagrancy, your Honor,&quot; said the bailiff. &quot;Thirty days,&quot;
+said his Honor. The hobo sat down, and the judge was calling another name
+and another hobo was rising to his feet.</p>
+
+<p>The trial of that hobo had taken just about fifteen seconds. The trial of
+the next hobo came off with equal celerity. The bailiff said, &quot;Vagrancy,
+your Honor,&quot; and his Honor said, &quot;Thirty days.&quot; Thus it went like
+clockwork, fifteen seconds to a hobo&mdash;and thirty days.</p>
+
+<p>They are poor dumb cattle, I thought to myself. But wait till my turn
+comes; I'll give his Honor a &quot;spiel.&quot; Part way along in the performance,
+his Honor, moved by some whim, gave one of us an opportunity to speak. As
+chance would have it, this man was not a genuine hobo. He bore none of the
+ear-marks of the professional &quot;stiff.&quot; Had he approached the rest of us,
+while waiting at a water-tank for a freight, we should have unhesitatingly
+classified him as a &quot;gay-cat.&quot; Gay-cat is the synonym for tenderfoot in
+Hobo Land. This gay-cat was well along in years&mdash;somewhere around
+forty-five, I should judge. His shoulders were humped a trifle, and his
+face was seamed by weather-beat.</p>
+
+<p>For many years, according to his story, he had driven team for some firm
+in (if I remember rightly) Lockport, New York. The firm had ceased to
+prosper, and finally, in the hard times of 1893, had gone out of business.
+He had been kept on to the last, though toward the last his work had been
+very irregular. He went on and explained at length his difficulties in
+getting work (when so many were out of work) during the succeeding months.
+In the end, deciding that he would find better opportunities for work on
+the Lakes, he had started for Buffalo. Of course he was &quot;broke,&quot; and
+there he was. That was all.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Thirty days,&quot; said his Honor, and called another hobo's name.</p>
+
+<p>Said hobo got up. &quot;Vagrancy, your Honor,&quot; said the bailiff, and his Honor
+said, &quot;Thirty days.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>And so it went, fifteen seconds and thirty days to each hobo. The machine
+of justice was grinding smoothly. Most likely, considering how early it
+was in the morning, his Honor had not yet had his breakfast and was in a
+hurry.</p>
+
+<p>But my American blood was up. Behind me were the many generations of my
+American ancestry. One of the kinds of liberty those ancestors of mine had
+fought and died for was the right of trial by jury. This was my heritage,
+stained sacred by their blood, and it devolved upon me to stand up for it.
+All right, I threatened to myself; just wait till he gets to me.</p>
+
+<p>He got to me. My name, whatever it was, was called, and I stood up. The
+bailiff said, &quot;Vagrancy, your Honor,&quot; and I began to talk. But the judge
+began talking at the same time, and he said, &quot;Thirty days.&quot; I started to
+protest, but at that moment his Honor was calling the name of the next
+hobo on the list. His Honor paused long enough to say to me, &quot;Shut up!&quot;
+The bailiff forced me to sit down. And the next moment that next hobo had
+received thirty days and the succeeding hobo was just in process of
+getting his.</p>
+
+<p>When we had all been disposed of, thirty days to each stiff, his Honor,
+just as he was about to dismiss us, suddenly turned to the teamster from
+Lockport&mdash;the one man he had allowed to talk.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Why did you quit your job?&quot; his Honor asked.</p>
+
+<p>Now the teamster had already explained how his job had quit him, and the
+question took him aback.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Your Honor,&quot; he began confusedly, &quot;isn't that a funny question to ask?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Thirty days more for quitting your job,&quot; said his Honor, and the court
+was closed. That was the outcome. The teamster got sixty days all
+together, while the rest of us got thirty days.</p>
+
+<p>We were taken down below, locked up, and given breakfast. It was a pretty
+good breakfast, as prison breakfasts go, and it was the best I was to get
+for a month to come.</p>
+
+<p>As for me, I was dazed. Here was I, under sentence, after a farce of a
+trial wherein I was denied not only my right of trial by jury, but my
+right to plead guilty or not guilty. Another thing my fathers had fought
+for flashed through my brain&mdash;habeas corpus. I'd show them. But when I
+asked for a lawyer, I was laughed at. Habeas corpus was all right, but of
+what good was it to me when I could communicate with no one outside the
+jail? But I'd show them. They couldn't keep me in jail forever. Just wait
+till I got out, that was all. I'd make them sit up. I knew something about
+the law and my own rights, and I'd expose their maladministration of
+justice. Visions of damage suits and sensational newspaper headlines were
+dancing before my eyes when the jailers came in and began hustling us out
+into the main office.</p>
+
+<p>A policeman snapped a handcuff on my right wrist. (Ah, ha, thought I, a
+new indignity. Just wait till I get out.) On the left wrist of a negro he
+snapped the other handcuff of that pair. He was a very tall negro, well
+past six feet&mdash;so tall was he that when we stood side by side his hand
+lifted mine up a trifle in the manacles. Also, he was the happiest and the
+raggedest negro I have ever seen.</p>
+
+<p>We were all handcuffed similarly, in pairs. This accomplished, a bright
+nickel-steel chain was brought forth, run down through the links of all
+the handcuffs, and locked at front and rear of the double-line. We were
+now a chain-gang. The command to march was given, and out we went upon the
+street, guarded by two officers. The tall negro and I had the place of
+honor. We led the procession.</p>
+
+<p>After the tomb-like gloom of the jail, the outside sunshine was dazzling.
+I had never known it to be so sweet as now, a prisoner with clanking
+chains, I knew that I was soon to see the last of it for thirty days. Down
+through the streets of Niagara Falls we marched to the railroad station,
+stared at by curious passers-by, and especially by a group of tourists on
+the veranda of a hotel that we marched past.</p>
+
+<p>There was plenty of slack in the chain, and with much rattling and
+clanking we sat down, two and two, in the seats of the smoking-car. Afire
+with indignation as I was at the outrage that had been perpetrated on me
+and my forefathers, I was nevertheless too prosaically practical to lose
+my head over it. This was all new to me. Thirty days of mystery were
+before me, and I looked about me to find somebody who knew the ropes. For
+I had already learned that I was not bound for a petty jail with a hundred
+or so prisoners in it, but for a full-grown penitentiary with a couple of
+thousand prisoners in it, doing anywhere from ten days to ten years.</p>
+
+<p>In the seat behind me, attached to the chain by his wrist, was a squat,
+heavily-built, powerfully-muscled man. He was somewhere between
+thirty-five and forty years of age. I sized him up. In the corners of his
+eyes I saw humor and laughter and kindliness. As for the rest of him, he
+was a brute-beast, wholly unmoral, and with all the passion and turgid
+violence of the brute-beast. What saved him, what made him possible for
+me, were those corners of his eyes&mdash;the humor and laughter and kindliness
+of the beast when unaroused.</p>
+
+<p>He was my &quot;meat.&quot; I &quot;cottoned&quot; to him. While my cuff-mate, the tall negro,
+mourned with chucklings and laughter over some laundry he was sure to lose
+through his arrest, and while the train rolled on toward Buffalo, I talked
+with the man in the seat behind me. He had an empty pipe. I filled it for
+him with my precious tobacco&mdash;enough in a single filling to make a dozen
+cigarettes. Nay, the more we talked the surer I was that he was my meat,
+and I divided all my tobacco with him.</p>
+
+<p>Now it happens that I am a fluid sort of an organism, with sufficient
+kinship with life to fit myself in 'most anywhere. I laid myself out to
+fit in with that man, though little did I dream to what extraordinary good
+purpose I was succeeding. He had never been in the particular penitentiary
+to which we were going, but he had done &quot;one-,&quot; &quot;two-,&quot; and &quot;five-spots&quot;
+in various other penitentiaries (a &quot;spot&quot; is a year), and he was filled
+with wisdom. We became pretty chummy, and my heart bounded when he
+cautioned me to follow his lead. He called me &quot;Jack,&quot; and I called him
+&quot;Jack.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The train stopped at a station about five miles from Buffalo, and we, the
+chain-gang, got off. I do not remember the name of this station, but I am
+confident that it is some one of the following: Rocklyn, Rockwood, Black
+Rock, Rockcastle, or Newcastle. But whatever the name of the place, we
+were walked a short distance and then put on a street-car. It was an
+old-fashioned car, with a seat, running the full length, on each side. All
+the passengers who sat on one side were asked to move over to the other
+side, and we, with a great clanking of chain, took their places. We sat
+facing them, I remember, and I remember, too, the awed expression on the
+faces of the women, who took us, undoubtedly, for convicted murderers and
+bank-robbers. I tried to look my fiercest, but that cuff-mate of mine, the
+too happy negro, insisted on rolling his eyes, laughing, and reiterating,
+&quot;O Lawdy! Lawdy!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>We left the car, walked some more, and were led into the office of the
+Erie County Penitentiary. Here we were to register, and on that register
+one or the other of my names will be found. Also, we were informed that we
+must leave in the office all our valuables: money, tobacco, matches,
+pocketknives, and so forth.</p>
+
+<p>My new pal shook his head at me.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;If you do not leave your things here, they will be confiscated inside,&quot;
+warned the official.</p>
+
+<p>Still my pal shook his head. He was busy with his hands, hiding his
+movements behind the other fellows. (Our handcuffs had been removed.) I
+watched him, and followed suit, wrapping up in a bundle in my handkerchief
+all the things I wanted to take in. These bundles the two of us thrust
+into our shirts. I noticed that our fellow-prisoners, with the exception
+of one or two who had watches, did not turn over their belongings to the
+man in the office. They were determined to smuggle them in somehow,
+trusting to luck; but they were not so wise as my pal, for they did not
+wrap their things in bundles.</p>
+
+<p>Our erstwhile guardians gathered up the handcuffs and chain and departed
+for Niagara Falls, while we, under new guardians, were led away into the
+prison. While we were in the office, our number had been added to by other
+squads of newly arrived prisoners, so that we were now a procession forty
+or fifty strong.</p>
+
+<p>Know, ye unimprisoned, that traffic is as restricted inside a large prison
+as commerce was in the Middle Ages. Once inside a penitentiary, one cannot
+move about at will. Every few steps are encountered great steel doors or
+gates which are always kept locked. We were bound for the barber-shop, but
+we encountered delays in the unlocking of doors for us. We were thus
+delayed in the first &quot;hall&quot; we entered. A &quot;hall&quot; is not a corridor.
+Imagine an oblong cube, built out of bricks and rising six stories high,
+each story a row of cells, say fifty cells in a row&mdash;in short, imagine a
+cube of colossal honeycomb. Place this cube on the ground and enclose it
+in a building with a roof overhead and walls all around. Such a cube and
+encompassing building constitute a &quot;hall&quot; in the Erie County Penitentiary.
+Also, to complete the picture, see a narrow gallery, with steel railing,
+running the full length of each tier of cells and at the ends of the
+oblong cube see all these galleries, from both sides, connected by a
+fire-escape system of narrow steel stairways.</p>
+
+<p>We were halted in the first hall, waiting for some guard to unlock a door.
+Here and there, moving about, were convicts, with close-cropped heads and
+shaven faces, and garbed in prison stripes. One such convict I noticed
+above us on the gallery of the third tier of cells. He was standing on the
+gallery and leaning forward, his arms resting on the railing, himself
+apparently oblivious of our presence. He seemed staring into vacancy. My
+pal made a slight hissing noise. The convict glanced down. Motioned
+signals passed between them. Then through the air soared the handkerchief
+bundle of my pal. The convict caught it, and like a flash it was out of
+sight in his shirt and he was staring into vacancy. My pal had told me to
+follow his lead. I watched my chance when the guard's back was turned, and
+my bundle followed the other one into the shirt of the convict.</p>
+
+<p>A minute later the door was unlocked, and we filed into the barber-shop.
+Here were more men in convict stripes. They were the prison barbers. Also,
+there were bath-tubs, hot water, soap, and scrubbing-brushes. We were
+ordered to strip and bathe, each man to scrub his neighbor's back&mdash;a
+needless precaution, this compulsory bath, for the prison swarmed with
+vermin. After the bath, we were each given a canvas clothes-bag.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Put all your clothes in the bags,&quot; said the guard. &quot;It's no good trying
+to smuggle anything in. You've got to line up naked for inspection. Men
+for thirty days or less keep their shoes and suspenders. Men for more than
+thirty days keep nothing.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>This announcement was received with consternation. How could naked men
+smuggle anything past an inspection? Only my pal and I were safe. But it
+was right here that the convict barbers got in their work. They passed
+among the poor newcomers, kindly volunteering to take charge of their
+precious little belongings, and promising to return them later in the day.
+Those barbers were philanthropists&mdash;to hear them talk. As in the case of
+Fra Lippo Lippi, never was there such prompt disemburdening. Matches,
+tobacco, rice-paper, pipes, knives, money, everything, flowed into the
+capacious shirts of the barbers. They fairly bulged with the spoil, and
+the guards made believe not to see. To cut the story short, nothing was
+ever returned. The barbers never had any intention of returning what they
+had taken. They considered it legitimately theirs. It was the barber-shop
+graft. There were many grafts in that prison, as I was to learn; and I,
+too, was destined to become a grafter&mdash;thanks to my new pal.</p>
+
+<p>There were several chairs, and the barbers worked rapidly. The quickest
+shaves and hair-cuts I have ever seen were given in that shop. The men
+lathered themselves, and the barbers shaved them at the rate of a minute
+to a man. A hair-cut took a trifle longer. In three minutes the down of
+eighteen was scraped from my face, and my head was as smooth as a
+billiard-ball just sprouting a crop of bristles. Beards, mustaches, like
+our clothes and everything, came off. Take my word for it, we were a
+villainous-looking gang when they got through with us. I had not realized
+before how really altogether bad we were.</p>
+
+<p>Then came the line-up, forty or fifty of us, naked as Kipling's heroes who
+stormed Lungtungpen. To search us was easy. There were only our shoes and
+ourselves. Two or three rash spirits, who had doubted the barbers, had the
+goods found on them&mdash;which goods, namely, tobacco, pipes, matches, and
+small change, were quickly confiscated. This over, our new clothes were
+brought to us&mdash;stout prison shirts, and coats and trousers conspicuously
+striped. I had always lingered under the impression that the convict
+stripes were put on a man only after he had been convicted of a felony. I
+lingered no longer, but put on the insignia of shame and got my first
+taste of marching the lock-step.</p>
+
+<p>In single file, close together, each man's hands on the shoulders of the
+man in front, we marched on into another large hall. Here we were ranged
+up against the wall in a long line and ordered to strip our left arms. A
+youth, a medical student who was getting in his practice on cattle such as
+we, came down the line. He vaccinated just about four times as rapidly as
+the barbers shaved. With a final caution to avoid rubbing our arms against
+anything, and to let the blood dry so as to form the scab, we were led
+away to our cells. Here my pal and I parted, but not before he had time to
+whisper to me, &quot;Suck it out.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>As soon as I was locked in, I sucked my arm clean. And afterward I saw men
+who had not sucked and who had horrible holes in their arms into which I
+could have thrust my fist. It was their own fault. They could have sucked.</p>
+
+<p>In my cell was another man. We were to be cell-mates. He was a young,
+manly fellow, not talkative, but very capable, indeed as splendid a fellow
+as one could meet with in a day's ride, and this in spite of the fact that
+he had just recently finished a two-year term in some Ohio penitentiary.</p>
+
+<p>Hardly had we been in our cell half an hour, when a convict sauntered down
+the gallery and looked in. It was my pal. He had the freedom of the hall,
+he explained. He was unlocked at six in the morning and not locked up
+again till nine at night. He was in with the &quot;push&quot; in that hall, and had
+been promptly appointed a trusty of the kind technically known as
+&quot;hall-man.&quot; The man who had appointed him was also a prisoner and a
+trusty, and was known as &quot;First Hall-man.&quot; There were thirteen hall-men in
+that hall. Ten of them had charge each of a gallery of cells, and over
+them were the First, Second, and Third Hall-men.</p>
+
+<p>We newcomers were to stay in our cells for the rest of the day, my pal
+informed me, so that the vaccine would have a chance to take. Then next
+morning we would be put to hard labor in the prison-yard.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;But I'll get you out of the work as soon as I can,&quot; he promised. &quot;I'll
+get one of the hall-men fired and have you put in his place.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He put his hand into his shirt, drew out the handkerchief containing my
+precious belongings, passed it in to me through the bars, and went on down
+the gallery.</p>
+
+<p>I opened the bundle. Everything was there. Not even a match was missing. I
+shared the makings of a cigarette with my cell-mate. When I started to
+strike a match for a light, he stopped me. A flimsy, dirty comforter lay
+in each of our bunks for bedding. He tore off a narrow strip of the thin
+cloth and rolled it tightly and telescopically into a long and slender
+cylinder. This he lighted with a precious match. The cylinder of
+tight-rolled cotton cloth did not flame. On the end a coal of fire slowly
+smouldered. It would last for hours, and my cell-mate called it a &quot;punk.&quot;
+And when it burned short, all that was necessary was to make a new punk,
+put the end of it against the old, blow on them, and so transfer the
+glowing coal. Why, we could have given Prometheus pointers on the
+conserving of fire.</p>
+
+<p>At twelve o'clock dinner was served. At the bottom of our cage door was a
+small opening like the entrance of a runway in a chicken-yard. Through
+this were thrust two hunks of dry bread and two pannikins of &quot;soup.&quot; A
+portion of soup consisted of about a quart of hot water with floating on
+its surface a lonely drop of grease. Also, there was some salt in that
+water.</p>
+
+<p>We drank the soup, but we did not eat the bread. Not that we were not
+hungry, and not that the bread was uneatable. It was fairly good bread.
+But we had reasons. My cell-mate had discovered that our cell was alive
+with bed-bugs. In all the cracks and interstices between the bricks where
+the mortar had fallen out flourished great colonies. The natives even
+ventured out in the broad daylight and swarmed over the walls and ceiling
+by hundreds. My cell-mate was wise in the ways of the beasts. Like Childe
+Roland, dauntless the slug-horn to his lips he bore. Never was there such
+a battle. It lasted for hours. It was shambles. And when the last
+survivors fled to their brick-and-mortar fastnesses, our work was only
+half done. We chewed mouthfuls of our bread until it was reduced to the
+consistency of putty. When a fleeing belligerent escaped into a crevice
+between the bricks, we promptly walled him in with a daub of the chewed
+bread. We toiled on until the light grew dim and until every hole, nook,
+and cranny was closed. I shudder to think of the tragedies of starvation
+and cannibalism that must have ensued behind those bread-plastered
+ramparts.</p>
+
+<p>We threw ourselves on our bunks, tired out and hungry, to wait for supper.
+It was a good day's work well done. In the weeks to come we at least
+should not suffer from the hosts of vermin. We had foregone our dinner,
+saved our hides at the expense of our stomachs; but we were content. Alas
+for the futility of human effort! Scarcely was our long task completed
+when a guard unlocked our door. A redistribution of prisoners was being
+made, and we were taken to another cell and locked in two galleries higher
+up.</p>
+
+<p>Early next morning our cells were unlocked, and down in the hall the
+several hundred prisoners of us formed the lock-step and marched out into
+the prison-yard to go to work. The Erie Canal runs right by the back yard
+of the Erie County Penitentiary. Our task was to unload canal-boats,
+carrying huge stay-bolts on our shoulders, like railroad ties, into the
+prison. As I worked I sized up the situation and studied the chances for a
+get-away. There wasn't the ghost of a show. Along the tops of the walls
+marched guards armed with repeating rifles, and I was told, furthermore,
+that there were machine-guns in the sentry-towers.</p>
+
+<p>I did not worry. Thirty days were not so long. I'd stay those thirty days,
+and add to the store of material I intended to use, when I got out,
+against the harpies of justice. I'd show what an American boy could do
+when his rights and privileges had been trampled on the way mine had. I
+had been denied my right of trial by jury; I had been denied my right to
+plead guilty or not guilty; I had been denied a trial even (for I couldn't
+consider that what I had received at Niagara Falls was a trial); I had not
+been allowed to communicate with a lawyer nor any one, and hence had been
+denied my right of suing for a writ of habeas corpus; my face had been
+shaved, my hair cropped close, convict stripes had been put upon my body;
+I was forced to toil hard on a diet of bread and water and to march the
+shameful lock-step with armed guards over me&mdash;and all for what? What had
+I done? What crime had I committed against the good citizens of Niagara
+Falls that all this vengeance should be wreaked upon me? I had not even
+violated their &quot;sleeping-out&quot; ordinance. I had slept outside their
+jurisdiction, in the country, that night. I had not even begged for a
+meal, or battered for a &quot;light piece&quot; on their streets. All that I had
+done was to walk along their sidewalk and gaze at their picayune
+waterfall. And what crime was there in that? Technically I was guilty of
+no misdemeanor. All right, I'd show them when I got out.</p>
+
+<p>The next day I talked with a guard. I wanted to send for a lawyer. The
+guard laughed at me. So did the other guards. I really was <i>incommunicado</i>
+so far as the outside world was concerned. I tried to write a letter out,
+but I learned that all letters were read, and censured or confiscated, by
+the prison authorities, and that &quot;short-timers&quot; were not allowed to write
+letters anyway. A little later I tried smuggling letters out by men who
+were released, but I learned that they were searched and the letters found
+and destroyed. Never mind. It all helped to make it a blacker case when I
+did get out.</p>
+
+<p>But as the prison days went by (which I shall describe in the next
+chapter), I &quot;learned a few.&quot; I heard tales of the police, and
+police-courts, and lawyers, that were unbelievable and monstrous. Men,
+prisoners, told me of personal experiences with the police of great cities
+that were awful. And more awful were the hearsay tales they told me
+concerning men who had died at the hands of the police and who therefore
+could not testify for themselves. Years afterward, in the report of the
+Lexow Committee, I was to read tales true and more awful than those told
+to me. But in the meantime, during the first days of my imprisonment, I
+scoffed at what I heard.</p>
+
+<p>As the days went by, however, I began to grow convinced. I saw with my own
+eyes, there in that prison, things unbelievable and monstrous. And the
+more convinced I became, the profounder grew the respect in me for the
+sleuth-hounds of the law and for the whole institution of criminal
+justice.</p>
+
+<p>My indignation ebbed away, and into my being rushed the tides of fear. I
+saw at last, clear-eyed, what I was up against. I grew meek and lowly.
+Each day I resolved more emphatically to make no rumpus when I got out.
+All I asked, when I got out, was a chance to fade away from the landscape.
+And that was just what I did do when I was released. I kept my tongue
+between my teeth, walked softly, and sneaked for Pennsylvania, a wiser and
+a humbler man.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="The_Pen" id="The_Pen" /><i>The Pen</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>For two days I toiled in the prison-yard. It was heavy work, and, in spite
+of the fact that I malingered at every opportunity, I was played out. This
+was because of the food. No man could work hard on such food. Bread and
+water, that was all that was given us. Once a week we were supposed to get
+meat; but this meat did not always go around, and since all nutriment had
+first been boiled out of it in the making of soup, it didn't matter
+whether one got a taste of it once a week or not.</p>
+
+<p>Furthermore, there was one vital defect in the bread-and-water diet. While
+we got plenty of water, we did not get enough of the bread. A ration of
+bread was about the size of one's two fists, and three rations a day were
+given to each prisoner. There was one good thing, I must say, about the
+water&mdash;it was hot. In the morning it was called &quot;coffee,&quot; at noon it was
+dignified as &quot;soup,&quot; and at night it masqueraded as &quot;tea.&quot; But it was the
+same old water all the time. The prisoners called it &quot;water bewitched.&quot; In
+the morning it was black water, the color being due to boiling it with
+burnt bread-crusts. At noon it was served minus the color, with salt and a
+drop of grease added. At night it was served with a purplish-auburn hue
+that defied all speculation; it was darn poor tea, but it was dandy hot
+water.</p>
+
+<p>We were a hungry lot in the Erie County Pen. Only the &quot;long-timers&quot; knew
+what it was to have enough to eat. The reason for this was that they would
+have died after a time on the fare we &quot;short-timers&quot; received. I know that
+the long-timers got more substantial grub, because there was a whole row
+of them on the ground floor in our hall, and when I was a trusty, I used
+to steal from their grub while serving them. Man cannot live on bread
+alone and not enough of it.</p>
+
+<p>My pal delivered the goods. After two days of work in the yard I was taken
+out of my cell and made a trusty, a &quot;hall-man.&quot; At morning and night we
+served the bread to the prisoners in their cells; but at twelve o'clock a
+different method was used. The convicts marched in from work in a long
+line. As they entered the door of our hall, they broke the lock-step and
+took their hands down from the shoulders of their line-mates. Just inside
+the door were piled trays of bread, and here also stood the First Hall-man
+and two ordinary hall-men. I was one of the two. Our task was to hold the
+trays of bread as the line of convicts filed past. As soon as the tray,
+say, that I was holding was emptied, the other hall-man took my place with
+a full tray. And when his was emptied, I took his place with a full tray.
+Thus the line tramped steadily by, each man reaching with his right hand
+and taking one ration of bread from the extended tray.</p>
+
+<p>The task of the First Hall-man was different. He used a club. He stood
+beside the tray and watched. The hungry wretches could never get over the
+delusion that sometime they could manage to get two rations of bread out
+of the tray. But in my experience that sometime never came. The club of
+the First Hall-man had a way of flashing out&mdash;quick as the stroke of a
+tiger's claw&mdash;to the hand that dared ambitiously. The First Hall-man was a
+good judge of distance, and he had smashed so many hands with that club
+that he had become infallible. He never missed, and he usually punished
+the offending convict by taking his one ration away from him and sending
+him to his cell to make his meal off of hot water.</p>
+
+<p>And at times, while all these men lay hungry in their cells, I have seen a
+hundred or so extra rations of bread hidden away in the cells of the
+hall-men. It would seem absurd, our retaining this bread. But it was one
+of our grafts. We were economic masters inside our hall, turning the trick
+in ways quite similar to the economic masters of civilization. We
+controlled the food-supply of the population, and, just like our brother
+bandits outside, we made the people pay through the nose for it. We
+peddled the bread. Once a week, the men who worked in the yard received a
+five-cent plug of chewing tobacco. This chewing tobacco was the coin of
+the realm. Two or three rations of bread for a plug was the way we
+exchanged, and they traded, not because they loved tobacco less, but
+because they loved bread more. Oh, I know, it was like taking candy from a
+baby, but what would you? We had to live. And certainly there should be
+some reward for initiative and enterprise. Besides, we but patterned
+ourselves after our betters outside the walls, who, on a larger scale,
+and under the respectable disguise of merchants, bankers, and captains of
+industry, did precisely what we were doing. What awful things would have
+happened to those poor wretches if it hadn't been for us, I can't imagine.
+Heaven knows we put bread into circulation in the Erie County Pen. Ay, and
+we encouraged frugality and thrift ... in the poor devils who forewent
+their tobacco. And then there was our example. In the breast of every
+convict there we implanted the ambition to become even as we and run a
+graft. Saviours of society&mdash;I guess yes.</p>
+
+<p>Here was a hungry man without any tobacco. Maybe he was a profligate and
+had used it all up on himself. Very good; he had a pair of suspenders. I
+exchanged half a dozen rations of bread for it&mdash;or a dozen rations if the
+suspenders were very good. Now I never wore suspenders, but that didn't
+matter. Around the corner lodged a long-timer, doing ten years for
+manslaughter. He wore suspenders, and he wanted a pair. I could trade them
+to him for some of his meat. Meat was what I wanted. Or perhaps he had a
+tattered, paper-covered novel. That was treasure-trove. I could read it
+and then trade it off to the bakers for cake, or to the cooks for meat and
+vegetables, or to the firemen for decent coffee, or to some one or other
+for the newspaper that occasionally filtered in, heaven alone knows how.
+The cooks, bakers, and firemen were prisoners like myself, and they lodged
+in our hall in the first row of cells over us.</p>
+
+<p>In short, a full-grown system of barter obtained in the Erie County Pen.
+There was even money in circulation. This money was sometimes smuggled in
+by the short-timers, more frequently came from the barber-shop graft,
+where the newcomers were mulcted, but most of all flowed from the cells of
+the long-timers&mdash;though how they got it I don't know.</p>
+
+<p>What of his preeminent position, the First Hall-man was reputed to be
+quite wealthy. In addition to his miscellaneous grafts, he grafted on us.
+We farmed the general wretchedness, and the First Hall-man was
+Farmer-General over all of us. We held our particular grafts by his
+permission, and we had to pay for that permission. As I say, he was
+reputed to be wealthy; but we never saw his money, and he lived in a cell
+all to himself in solitary grandeur.</p>
+
+<p>But that money was made in the Pen I had direct evidence, for I was
+cell-mate quite a time with the Third Hall-man. He had over sixteen
+dollars. He used to count his money every night after nine o'clock, when
+we were locked in. Also, he used to tell me each night what he would do to
+me if I gave away on him to the other hall-men. You see, he was afraid of
+being robbed, and danger threatened him from three different directions.
+There were the guards. A couple of them might jump upon him, give him a
+good beating for alleged insubordination, and throw him into the
+&quot;solitaire&quot; (the dungeon); and in the mix-up that sixteen dollars of his
+would take wings. Then again, the First Hall-man could have taken it all
+away from him by threatening to dismiss him and fire him back to hard
+labor in the prison-yard. And yet again, there were the ten of us who were
+ordinary hall-men. If we got an inkling of his wealth, there was a large
+liability, some quiet day, of the whole bunch of us getting him into a
+corner and dragging him down. Oh, we were wolves, believe me&mdash;just like
+the fellows who do business in Wall Street.</p>
+
+<p>He had good reason to be afraid of us, and so had I to be afraid of him.
+He was a huge, illiterate brute, an ex-Chesapeake-Bay-oyster-pirate, an
+&quot;ex-con&quot; who had done five years in Sing Sing, and a general all-around
+stupidly carnivorous beast. He used to trap sparrows that flew into our
+hall through the open bars. When he made a capture, he hurried away with
+it into his cell, where I have seen him crunching bones and spitting out
+feathers as he bolted it raw. Oh, no, I never gave away on him to the
+other hall-men. This is the first time I have mentioned his sixteen
+dollars.</p>
+
+<p>But I grafted on him just the same. He was in love with a woman prisoner
+who was confined in the &quot;female department.&quot; He could neither read nor
+write, and I used to read her letters to him and write his replies. And I
+made him pay for it, too. But they were good letters. I laid myself out on
+them, put in my best licks, and furthermore, I won her for him; though I
+shrewdly guess that she was in love, not with him, but with the humble
+scribe. I repeat, those letters were great.</p>
+
+<p>Another one of our grafts was &quot;passing the punk.&quot; We were the celestial
+messengers, the fire-bringers, in that iron world of bolt and bar. When
+the men came in from work at night and were locked in their cells, they
+wanted to smoke. Then it was that we restored the divine spark, running
+the galleries, from cell to cell, with our smouldering punks. Those who
+were wise, or with whom we did business, had their punks all ready to
+light. Not every one got divine sparks, however. The guy who refused to
+dig up, went sparkless and smokeless to bed. But what did we care? We had
+the immortal cinch on him, and if he got fresh, two or three of us would
+pitch on him and give him &quot;what-for.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>You see, this was the working-theory of the hall-men. There were thirteen
+of us. We had something like half a thousand prisoners in our hall. We
+were supposed to do the work, and to keep order. The latter was the
+function of the guards, which they turned over to us. It was up to us to
+keep order; if we didn't, we'd be fired back to hard labor, most probably
+with a taste of the dungeon thrown in. But so long as we maintained order,
+that long could we work our own particular grafts.</p>
+
+<p>Bear with me a moment and look at the problem. Here were thirteen beasts
+of us over half a thousand other beasts. It was a living hell, that
+prison, and it was up to us thirteen there to rule. It was impossible,
+considering the nature of the beasts, for us to rule by kindness. We ruled
+by fear. Of course, behind us, backing us up, were the guards. In
+extremity we called upon them for help; but it would bother them if we
+called upon them too often, in which event we could depend upon it that
+they would get more efficient trusties to take our places. But we did not
+call upon them often, except in a quiet sort of way, when we wanted a cell
+unlocked in order to get at a refractory prisoner inside. In such cases
+all the guard did was to unlock the door and walk away so as not to be a
+witness of what happened when half a dozen hall-men went inside and did a
+bit of man-handling.</p>
+
+<p>As regards the details of this man-handling I shall say nothing. And after
+all, man-handling was merely one of the very minor unprintable horrors of
+the Erie County Pen. I say &quot;unprintable&quot;; and in justice I must also say
+&quot;unthinkable.&quot; They were unthinkable to me until I saw them, and I was no
+spring chicken in the ways of the world and the awful abysses of human
+degradation. It would take a deep plummet to reach bottom in the Erie
+County Pen, and I do but skim lightly and facetiously the surface of
+things as I there saw them.</p>
+
+<p>At times, say in the morning when the prisoners came down to wash, the
+thirteen of us would be practically alone in the midst of them, and every
+last one of them had it in for us. Thirteen against five hundred, and we
+ruled by fear. We could not permit the slightest infraction of rules, the
+slightest insolence. If we did, we were lost. Our own rule was to hit a
+man as soon as he opened his mouth&mdash;hit him hard, hit him with anything. A
+broom-handle, end-on, in the face, had a very sobering effect. But that
+was not all. Such a man must be made an example of; so the next rule was
+to wade right in and follow him up. Of course, one was sure that every
+hall-man in sight would come on the run to join in the chastisement; for
+this also was a rule. Whenever any hall-man was in trouble with a
+prisoner, the duty of any other hall-man who happened to be around was to
+lend a fist. Never mind the merits of the case&mdash;wade in and hit, and hit
+with anything; in short, lay the man out.</p>
+
+<p>I remember a handsome young mulatto of about twenty who got the insane
+idea into his head that he should stand for his rights. And he did have
+the right of it, too; but that didn't help him any. He lived on the
+topmost gallery. Eight hall-men took the conceit out of him in just about
+a minute and a half&mdash;for that was the length of time required to travel
+along his gallery to the end and down five flights of steel stairs. He
+travelled the whole distance on every portion of his anatomy except his
+feet, and the eight hall-men were not idle. The mulatto struck the
+pavement where I was standing watching it all. He regained his feet and
+stood upright for a moment. In that moment he threw his arms wide apart
+and omitted an awful scream of terror and pain and heartbreak. At the same
+instant, as in a transformation scene, the shreds of his stout prison
+clothes fell from him, leaving him wholly naked and streaming blood from
+every portion of the surface of his body. Then he collapsed in a heap,
+unconscious. He had learned his lesson, and every convict within those
+walls who heard him scream had learned a lesson. So had I learned mine.
+It is not a nice thing to see a man's heart broken in a minute and a half.</p>
+
+<p>The following will illustrate how we drummed up business in the graft of
+passing the punk. A row of newcomers is installed in your cells. You pass
+along before the bars with your punk. &quot;Hey, Bo, give us a light,&quot; some one
+calls to you. Now this is an advertisement that that particular man has
+tobacco on him. You pass in the punk and go your way. A little later you
+come back and lean up casually against the bars. &quot;Say, Bo, can you let us
+have a little tobacco?&quot; is what you say. If he is not wise to the game,
+the chances are that he solemnly avers that he hasn't any more tobacco.
+All very well. You condole with him and go your way. But you know that his
+punk will last him only the rest of that day. Next day you come by, and he
+says again, &quot;Hey, Bo, give us a light.&quot; And you say, &quot;You haven't any
+tobacco and you don't need a light.&quot; And you don't give him any, either.
+Half an hour after, or an hour or two or three hours, you will be passing
+by and the man will call out to you in mild tones, &quot;Come here, Bo.&quot; And
+you come. You thrust your hand between the bars and have it filled with
+precious tobacco. Then you give him a light.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes, however, a newcomer arrives, upon whom no grafts are to be
+worked. The mysterious word is passed along that he is to be treated
+decently. Where this word originated I could never learn. The one thing
+patent is that the man has a &quot;pull.&quot; It may be with one of the superior
+hall-men; it may be with one of the guards in some other part of the
+prison; it may be that good treatment has been purchased from grafters
+higher up; but be it as it may, we know that it is up to us to treat him
+decently if we want to avoid trouble.</p>
+
+<p>We hall-men were middle-men and common carriers. We arranged trades
+between convicts confined in different parts of the prison, and we put
+through the exchange. Also, we took our commissions coming and going.
+Sometimes the objects traded had to go through the hands of half a dozen
+middle-men, each of whom took his whack, or in some way or another was
+paid for his service.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes one was in debt for services, and sometimes one had others in
+his debt. Thus, I entered the prison in debt to the convict who smuggled
+in my things for me. A week or so afterward, one of the firemen passed a
+letter into my hand. It had been given to him by a barber. The barber had
+received it from the convict who had smuggled in my things. Because of my
+debt to him I was to carry the letter on. But he had not written the
+letter. The original sender was a long-timer in his hall. The letter was
+for a woman prisoner in the female department. But whether it was intended
+for her, or whether she, in turn, was one of the chain of go-betweens, I
+did not know. All that I knew was her description, and that it was up to
+me to get it into her hands.</p>
+
+<p>Two days passed, during which time I kept the letter in my possession;
+then the opportunity came. The women did the mending of all the clothes
+worn by the convicts. A number of our hall-men had to go to the female
+department to bring back huge bundles of clothes. I fixed it with the
+First Hall-man that I was to go along. Door after door was unlocked for us
+as we threaded our way across the prison to the women's quarters. We
+entered a large room where the women sat working at their mending. My eyes
+were peeled for the woman who had been described to me. I located her and
+worked near to her. Two eagle-eyed matrons were on watch. I held the
+letter in my palm, and I looked my intention at the woman. She knew I had
+something for her; she must have been expecting it, and had set herself to
+divining, at the moment we entered, which of us was the messenger. But one
+of the matrons stood within two feet of her. Already the hall-men were
+picking up the bundles they were to carry away. The moment was passing. I
+delayed with my bundle, making believe that it was not tied securely.
+Would that matron ever look away? Or was I to fail? And just then another
+woman cut up playfully with one of the hall-men&mdash;stuck out her foot and
+tripped him, or pinched him, or did something or other. The matron looked
+that way and reprimanded the woman sharply. Now I do not know whether or
+not this was all planned to distract the matron's attention, but I did
+know that it was my opportunity. My particular woman's hand dropped from
+her lap down by her side. I stooped to pick up my bundle. From my stooping
+position I slipped the letter into her hand, and received another in
+exchange. The next moment the bundle was on my shoulder, the matron's
+gaze had returned to me because I was the last hall-man, and I was
+hastening to catch up with my companions. The letter I had received from
+the woman I turned over to the fireman, and thence it passed through the
+hands of the barber, of the convict who had smuggled in my things, and on
+to the long-timer at the other end.</p>
+
+<p>Often we conveyed letters, the chain of communication of which was so
+complex that we knew neither sender nor sendee. We were but links in the
+chain. Somewhere, somehow, a convict would thrust a letter into my hand
+with the instruction to pass it on to the next link. All such acts were
+favors to be reciprocated later on, when I should be acting directly with
+a principal in transmitting letters, and from whom I should be receiving
+my pay. The whole prison was covered by a network of lines of
+communication. And we who were in control of the system of communication,
+naturally, since we were modelled after capitalistic society, exacted
+heavy tolls from our customers. It was service for profit with a
+vengeance, though we were at times not above giving service for love.</p>
+
+<p>And all the time I was in the Pen I was making myself solid with my pal.
+He had done much for me, and in return he expected me to do as much for
+him. When we got out, we were to travel together, and, it goes without
+saying, pull off &quot;jobs&quot; together. For my pal was a criminal&mdash;oh, not a
+jewel of the first water, merely a petty criminal who would steal and rob,
+commit burglary, and, if cornered, not stop short of murder. Many a quiet
+hour we sat and talked together. He had two or three jobs in view for the
+immediate future, in which my work was cut out for me, and in which I
+joined in planning the details. I had been with and seen much of
+criminals, and my pal never dreamed that I was only fooling him, giving
+him a string thirty days long. He thought I was the real goods, liked me
+because I was not stupid, and liked me a bit, too, I think, for myself. Of
+course I had not the slightest intention of joining him in a life of
+sordid, petty crime; but I'd have been an idiot to throw away all the good
+things his friendship made possible. When one is on the hot lava of hell,
+he cannot pick and choose his path, and so it was with me in the Erie
+County Pen. I had to stay in with the &quot;push,&quot; or do hard labor on bread
+and water; and to stay in with the push I had to make good with my pal.</p>
+
+<p>Life was not monotonous in the Pen. Every day something was happening: men
+were having fits, going crazy, fighting, or the hall-men were getting
+drunk. Rover Jack, one of the ordinary hall-men, was our star &quot;oryide.&quot; He
+was a true &quot;profesh,&quot; a &quot;blowed-in-the-glass&quot; stiff, and as such received
+all kinds of latitude from the hall-men in authority. Pittsburg Joe, who
+was Second Hall-man, used to join Rover Jack in his jags; and it was a
+saying of the pair that the Erie County Pen was the only place where a man
+could get &quot;slopped&quot; and not be arrested. I never knew, but I was told that
+bromide of potassium, gained in devious ways from the dispensary, was the
+dope they used. But I do know, whatever their dope was, that they got good
+and drunk on occasion.</p>
+
+<p>Our hall was a common stews, filled with the ruck and the filth, the scum
+and dregs, of society&mdash;hereditary inefficients, degenerates, wrecks,
+lunatics, addled intelligences, epileptics, monsters, weaklings, in short,
+a very nightmare of humanity. Hence, fits flourished with us. These fits
+seemed contagious. When one man began throwing a fit, others followed his
+lead. I have seen seven men down with fits at the same time, making the
+air hideous with their cries, while as many more lunatics would be raging
+and gibbering up and down. Nothing was ever done for the men with fits
+except to throw cold water on them. It was useless to send for the medical
+student or the doctor. They were not to be bothered with such trivial and
+frequent occurrences.</p>
+
+<p>There was a young Dutch boy, about eighteen years of age, who had fits
+most frequently of all. He usually threw one every day. It was for that
+reason that we kept him on the ground floor farther down in the row of
+cells in which we lodged. After he had had a few fits in the prison-yard,
+the guards refused to be bothered with him any more, and so he remained
+locked up in his cell all day with a Cockney cell-mate, to keep him
+company. Not that the Cockney was of any use. Whenever the Dutch boy had a
+fit, the Cockney became paralyzed with terror.</p>
+
+<p>The Dutch boy could not speak a word of English. He was a farmer's boy,
+serving ninety days as punishment for having got into a scrap with some
+one. He prefaced his fits with howling. He howled like a wolf. Also, he
+took his fits standing up, which was very inconvenient for him, for his
+fits always culminated in a headlong pitch to the floor. Whenever I heard
+the long wolf-howl rising, I used to grab a broom and run to his cell. Now
+the trusties were not allowed keys to the cells, so I could not get in to
+him. He would stand up in the middle of his narrow cell, shivering
+convulsively, his eyes rolled backward till only the whites were visible,
+and howling like a lost soul. Try as I would, I could never get the
+Cockney to lend him a hand. While he stood and howled, the Cockney
+crouched and trembled in the upper bunk, his terror-stricken gaze fixed on
+that awful figure, with eyes rolled back, that howled and howled. It was
+hard on him, too, the poor devil of a Cockney. His own reason was not any
+too firmly seated, and the wonder is that he did not go mad.</p>
+
+<p>All that I could do was my best with the broom. I would thrust it through
+the bars, train it on Dutchy's chest, and wait. As the crisis approached
+he would begin swaying back and forth. I followed this swaying with the
+broom, for there was no telling when he would take that dreadful forward
+pitch. But when he did, I was there with the broom, catching him and
+easing him down. Contrive as I would, he never came down quite gently, and
+his face was usually bruised by the stone floor. Once down and writhing in
+convulsions, I'd throw a bucket of water over him. I don't know whether
+cold water was the right thing or not, but it was the custom in the Erie
+County Pen. Nothing more than that was ever done for him. He would lie
+there, wet, for an hour or so, and then crawl into his bunk. I knew better
+than to run to a guard for assistance. What was a man with a fit, anyway?</p>
+
+<p>In the adjoining cell lived a strange character&mdash;a man who was doing sixty
+days for eating swill out of Barnum's swill-barrel, or at least that was
+the way he put it. He was a badly addled creature, and, at first, very
+mild and gentle. The facts of his case were as he had stated them. He had
+strayed out to the circus ground, and, being hungry, had made his way to
+the barrel that contained the refuse from the table of the circus people.
+&quot;And it was good bread,&quot; he often assured me; &quot;and the meat was out of
+sight.&quot; A policeman had seen him and arrested him, and there he was.</p>
+
+<p>Once I passed his cell with a piece of stiff thin wire in my hand. He
+asked me for it so earnestly that I passed it through the bars to him.
+Promptly, and with no tool but his fingers, he broke it into short lengths
+and twisted them into half a dozen very creditable safety pins. He
+sharpened the points on the stone floor. Thereafter I did quite a trade in
+safety pins. I furnished the raw material and peddled the finished
+product, and he did the work. As wages, I paid him extra rations of bread,
+and once in a while a chunk of meat or a piece of soup-bone with some
+marrow inside.</p>
+
+<p>But his imprisonment told on him, and he grew violent day by day. The
+hall-men took delight in teasing him. They filled his weak brain with
+stories of a great fortune that had been left him. It was in order to rob
+him of it that he had been arrested and sent to jail. Of course, as he
+himself knew, there was no law against eating out of a barrel. Therefore
+he was wrongly imprisoned. It was a plot to deprive him of his fortune.</p>
+
+<p>The first I knew of it, I heard the hall-men laughing about the string
+they had given him. Next he held a serious conference with me, in which he
+told me of his millions and the plot to deprive him of them, and in which
+he appointed me his detective. I did my best to let him down gently,
+speaking vaguely of a mistake, and that it was another man with a similar
+name who was the rightful heir. I left him quite cooled down; but I
+couldn't keep the hall-men away from him, and they continued to string him
+worse than ever. In the end, after a most violent scene, he threw me down,
+revoked my private detectiveship, and went on strike. My trade in safety
+pins ceased. He refused to make any more safety pins, and he peppered me
+with raw material through the bars of his cell when I passed by.</p>
+
+<p>I could never make it up with him. The other hall-men told him that I was
+a detective in the employ of the conspirators. And in the meantime the
+hall-men drove him mad with their stringing. His fictitious wrongs preyed
+upon his mind, and at last he became a dangerous and homicidal lunatic.
+The guards refused to listen to his tale of stolen millions, and he
+accused them of being in the plot. One day he threw a pannikin of hot tea
+over one of them, and then his case was investigated. The warden talked
+with him a few minutes through the bars of his cell. Then he was taken
+away for examination before the doctors. He never came back, and I often
+wonder if he is dead, or if he still gibbers about his millions in some
+asylum for the insane.</p>
+
+<p>At last came the day of days, my release. It was the day of release for
+the Third Hall-man as well, and the short-timer girl I had won for him was
+waiting for him outside the wall. They went away blissfully together. My
+pal and I went out together, and together we walked down into Buffalo.
+Were we not to be together always? We begged together on the &quot;main-drag&quot;
+that day for pennies, and what we received was spent for &quot;shupers&quot; of
+beer&mdash;I don't know how they are spelled, but they are pronounced the way I
+have spelled them, and they cost three cents. I was watching my chance all
+the time for a get-away. From some bo on the drag I managed to learn what
+time a certain freight pulled out. I calculated my time accordingly. When
+the moment came, my pal and I were in a saloon. Two foaming shupers were
+before us. I'd have liked to say good-by. He had been good to me. But I
+did not dare. I went out through the rear of the saloon and jumped the
+fence. It was a swift sneak, and a few minutes later I was on board a
+freight and heading south on the Western New York and Pennsylvania
+Railroad.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Hoboes_That_Pass_in_the_Night" id="Hoboes_That_Pass_in_the_Night" /><i>Hoboes That Pass in the Night</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>In the course of my tramping I encountered hundreds of hoboes, whom I
+hailed or who hailed me, and with whom I waited at water-tanks,
+&quot;boiled-up,&quot; cooked &quot;mulligans,&quot; &quot;battered&quot; the &quot;drag&quot; or &quot;privates,&quot; and
+beat trains, and who passed and were seen never again. On the other hand,
+there were hoboes who passed and repassed with amazing frequency, and
+others, still, who passed like ghosts, close at hand, unseen, and never
+seen.</p>
+
+<p>It was one of the latter that I chased clear across Canada over three
+thousand miles of railroad, and never once did I lay eyes on him. His
+&quot;monica&quot; was Skysail Jack. I first ran into it at Montreal. Carved with a
+jack-knife was the skysail-yard of a ship. It was perfectly executed.
+Under it was &quot;Skysail Jack.&quot; Above was &quot;B.W. 9-15-94.&quot; This latter
+conveyed the information that he had passed through Montreal bound west,
+on October 15, 1894. He had one day the start of me. &quot;Sailor Jack&quot; was my
+monica at that particular time, and promptly I carved it alongside of his,
+along with the date and the information that I, too, was bound west.</p>
+
+<p>I had misfortune in getting over the next hundred miles, and eight days
+later I picked up Skysail Jack's trail three hundred miles west of Ottawa.
+There it was, carved on a water-tank, and by the date I saw that he
+likewise had met with delay. He was only two days ahead of me. I was a
+&quot;comet&quot; and &quot;tramp-royal,&quot; so was Skysail Jack; and it was up to my pride
+and reputation to catch up with him. I &quot;railroaded&quot; day and night, and I
+passed him; then turn about he passed me. Sometimes he was a day or so
+ahead, and sometimes I was. From hoboes, bound east, I got word of him
+occasionally, when he happened to be ahead; and from them I learned that
+he had become interested in Sailor Jack and was making inquiries about me.</p>
+
+<p>We'd have made a precious pair, I am sure, if we'd ever got together; but
+get together we couldn't. I kept ahead of him clear across Manitoba, but
+he led the way across Alberta, and early one bitter gray morning, at the
+end of a division just east of Kicking Horse Pass, I learned that he had
+been seen the night before between Kicking Horse Pass and Rogers' Pass. It
+was rather curious the way the information came to me. I had been riding
+all night in a &quot;side-door Pullman&quot; (box-car), and nearly dead with cold
+had crawled out at the division to beg for food. A freezing fog was
+drifting past, and I &quot;hit&quot; some firemen I found in the round-house. They
+fixed me up with the leavings from their lunch-pails, and in addition I
+got out of them nearly a quart of heavenly &quot;Java&quot; (coffee). I heated the
+latter, and, as I sat down to eat, a freight pulled in from the west. I
+saw a side-door open and a road-kid climb out. Through the drifting fog he
+limped over to me. He was stiff with cold, his lips blue. I shared my Java
+and grub with him, learned about Skysail Jack, and then learned about him.
+Behold, he was from my own town, Oakland, California, and he was a member
+of the celebrated Boo Gang&mdash;a gang with which I had affiliated at rare
+intervals. We talked fast and bolted the grub in the half-hour that
+followed. Then my freight pulled out, and I was on it, bound west on the
+trail of Skysail Jack.</p>
+
+<p>I was delayed between the passes, went two days without food, and walked
+eleven miles on the third day before I got any, and yet I succeeded in
+passing Skysail Jack along the Fraser River in British Columbia. I was
+riding &quot;passengers&quot; then and making time; but he must have been riding
+passengers, too, and with more luck or skill than I, for he got into
+Mission ahead of me.</p>
+
+<p>Now Mission was a junction, forty miles east of Vancouver. From the
+junction one could proceed south through Washington and Oregon over the
+Northern Pacific. I wondered which way Skysail Jack would go, for I
+thought I was ahead of him. As for myself I was still bound west to
+Vancouver. I proceeded to the water-tank to leave that information, and
+there, freshly carved, with that day's date upon it, was Skysail Jack's
+monica. I hurried on into Vancouver. But he was gone. He had taken ship
+immediately and was still flying west on his world-adventure. Truly,
+Skysail Jack, you were a tramp-royal, and your mate was the &quot;wind that
+tramps the world.&quot; I take off my hat to you. You were
+&quot;blowed-in-the-glass&quot; all right. A week later I, too, got my ship, and on
+board the steamship Umatilla, in the forecastle, was working my way down
+the coast to San Francisco. Skysail Jack and Sailor Jack&mdash;gee! if we'd
+ever got together.</p>
+
+<p>Water-tanks are tramp directories. Not all in idle wantonness do tramps
+carve their monicas, dates, and courses. Often and often have I met hoboes
+earnestly inquiring if I had seen anywhere such and such a &quot;stiff&quot; or his
+monica. And more than once I have been able to give the monica of recent
+date, the water-tank, and the direction in which he was then bound. And
+promptly the hobo to whom I gave the information lit out after his pal. I
+have met hoboes who, in trying to catch a pal, had pursued clear across
+the continent and back again, and were still going.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Monicas&quot; are the nom-de-rails that hoboes assume or accept when thrust
+upon them by their fellows. Leary Joe, for instance, was timid, and was so
+named by his fellows. No self-respecting hobo would select Stew Bum for
+himself. Very few tramps care to remember their pasts during which they
+ignobly worked, so monicas based upon trades are very rare, though I
+remember having met the following: Moulder Blackey, Painter Red, Chi
+Plumber, Boiler-Maker, Sailor Boy, and Printer Bo. &quot;Chi&quot; (pronounced shy),
+by the way, is the argot for &quot;Chicago.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>A favorite device of hoboes is to base their monicas on the localities
+from which they hail, as: New York Tommy, Pacific Slim, Buffalo Smithy,
+Canton Tim, Pittsburg Jack, Syracuse Shine, Troy Mickey, K.L. Bill, and
+Connecticut Jimmy. Then there was &quot;Slim Jim from Vinegar Hill, who never
+worked and never will.&quot; A &quot;shine&quot; is always a negro, so called, possibly,
+from the high lights on his countenance. Texas Shine or Toledo Shine
+convey both race and nativity.</p>
+
+<p>Among those that incorporated their race, I recollect the following:
+Frisco Sheeny, New York Irish, Michigan French, English Jack, Cockney Kid,
+and Milwaukee Dutch. Others seem to take their monicas in part from the
+color-schemes stamped upon them at birth, such as: Chi Whitey, New Jersey
+Red, Boston Blackey, Seattle Browney, and Yellow Dick and Yellow
+Belly&mdash;the last a Creole from Mississippi, who, I suspect, had his monica
+thrust upon him.</p>
+
+<p>Texas Royal, Happy Joe, Bust Connors, Burley Bo, Tornado Blackey, and
+Touch McCall used more imagination in rechristening themselves. Others,
+with less fancy, carry the names of their physical peculiarities, such as:
+Vancouver Slim, Detroit Shorty, Ohio Fatty, Long Jack, Big Jim, Little
+Joe, New York Blink, Chi Nosey, and Broken-backed Ben.</p>
+
+<p>By themselves come the road-kids, sporting an infinite variety of monicas.
+For example, the following, whom here and there I have encountered: Buck
+Kid, Blind Kid, Midget Kid, Holy Kid, Bat Kid, Swift Kid, Cookey Kid,
+Monkey Kid, Iowa Kid, Corduroy Kid, Orator Kid (who could tell how it
+happened), and Lippy Kid (who was insolent, depend upon it).</p>
+
+<p>On the water-tank at San Marcial, New Mexico, a dozen years ago, was the
+following hobo bill of fare:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="blockquot">
+(1) Main-drag fair.<br />
+(2) Bulls not hostile.<br />
+(3) Round-house good for kipping.<br />
+(4) North-bound trains no good.<br />
+(5) Privates no good.<br />
+(6) Restaurants good for cooks only.<br />
+(7) Railroad House good for night-work only.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Number one conveys the information that begging for money on the main
+street is fair; number two, that the police will not bother hoboes; number
+three, that one can sleep in the round-house. Number four, however, is
+ambiguous. The north-bound trains may be no good to beat, and they may be
+no good to beg. Number five means that the residences are not good to
+beggars, and number six means that only hoboes that have been cooks can
+get grub from the restaurants. Number seven bothers me. I cannot make out
+whether the Railroad House is a good place for any hobo to beg at night,
+or whether it is good only for hobo-cooks to beg at night, or whether any
+hobo, cook or non-cook, can lend a hand at night, helping the cooks of the
+Railroad House with their dirty work and getting something to eat in
+payment.</p>
+
+<p>But to return to the hoboes that pass in the night. I remember one I met
+in California. He was a Swede, but he had lived so long in the United
+States that one couldn't guess his nationality. He had to tell it on
+himself. In fact, he had come to the United States when no more than a
+baby. I ran into him first at the mountain town of Truckee. &quot;Which way,
+Bo?&quot; was our greeting, and &quot;Bound east&quot; was the answer each of us gave.
+Quite a bunch of &quot;stiffs&quot; tried to ride out the overland that night, and I
+lost the Swede in the shuffle. Also, I lost the overland.</p>
+
+<p>I arrived in Reno, Nevada, in a box-car that was promptly side-tracked. It
+was a Sunday morning, and after I threw my feet for breakfast, I wandered
+over to the Piute camp to watch the Indians gambling. And there stood the
+Swede, hugely interested. Of course we got together. He was the only
+acquaintance I had in that region, and I was his only acquaintance. We
+rushed together like a couple of dissatisfied hermits, and together we
+spent the day, threw our feet for dinner, and late in the afternoon tried
+to &quot;nail&quot; the same freight. But he was ditched, and I rode her out alone,
+to be ditched myself in the desert twenty miles beyond.</p>
+
+<p>Of all desolate places, the one at which I was ditched was the limit. It
+was called a flag-station, and it consisted of a shanty dumped
+inconsequentially into the sand and sagebrush. A chill wind was blowing,
+night was coming on, and the solitary telegraph operator who lived in the
+shanty was afraid of me. I knew that neither grub nor bed could I get out
+of him. It was because of his manifest fear of me that I did not believe
+him when he told me that east-bound trains never stopped there. Besides,
+hadn't I been thrown off of an east-bound train right at that very spot
+not five minutes before? He assured me that it had stopped under orders,
+and that a year might go by before another was stopped under orders. He
+advised me that it was only a dozen or fifteen miles on to Wadsworth and
+that I'd better hike. I elected to wait, however, and I had the pleasure
+of seeing two west-bound freights go by without stopping, and one
+east-bound freight. I wondered if the Swede was on the latter. It was up
+to me to hit the ties to Wadsworth, and hit them I did, much to the
+telegraph operator's relief, for I neglected to burn his shanty and murder
+him. Telegraph operators have much to be thankful for. At the end of half
+a dozen miles, I had to get off the ties and let the east-bound overland
+go by. She was going fast, but I caught sight of a dim form on the first
+&quot;blind&quot; that looked like the Swede.</p>
+
+<p>That was the last I saw of him for weary days. I hit the high places
+across those hundreds of miles of Nevada desert, riding the overlands at
+night, for speed, and in the day-time riding in box-cars and getting my
+sleep. It was early in the year, and it was cold in those upland pastures.
+Snow lay here and there on the level, all the mountains were shrouded in
+white, and at night the most miserable wind imaginable blew off from them.
+It was not a land in which to linger. And remember, gentle reader, the
+hobo goes through such a land, without shelter, without money, begging his
+way and sleeping at night without blankets. This last is something that
+can be realized only by experience.</p>
+
+<p>In the early evening I came down to the depot at Ogden. The overland of
+the Union Pacific was pulling east, and I was bent on making connections.
+Out in the tangle of tracks ahead of the engine I encountered a figure
+slouching through the gloom. It was the Swede. We shook hands like
+long-lost brothers, and discovered that our hands were gloved. &quot;Where'd ye
+glahm 'em?&quot; I asked. &quot;Out of an engine-cab,&quot; he answered; &quot;and where did
+you?&quot; &quot;They belonged to a fireman,&quot; said I; &quot;he was careless.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>We caught the blind as the overland pulled out, and mighty cold we found
+it. The way led up a narrow gorge between snow-covered mountains, and we
+shivered and shook and exchanged confidences about how we had covered the
+ground between Reno and Ogden. I had closed my eyes for only an hour or so
+the previous night, and the blind was not comfortable enough to suit me
+for a snooze. At a stop, I went forward to the engine. We had on a
+&quot;double-header&quot; (two engines) to take us over the grade.</p>
+
+<p>The pilot of the head engine, because it &quot;punched the wind,&quot; I knew would
+be too cold; so I selected the pilot of the second engine, which was
+sheltered by the first engine. I stepped on the cowcatcher and found the
+pilot occupied. In the darkness I felt out the form of a young boy. He was
+sound asleep. By squeezing, there was room for two on the pilot, and I
+made the boy budge over and crawled up beside him. It was a &quot;good&quot; night;
+the &quot;shacks&quot; (brakemen) didn't bother us, and in no time we were asleep.
+Once in a while hot cinders or heavy jolts aroused me, when I snuggled
+closer to the boy and dozed off to the coughing of the engines and the
+screeching of the wheels.</p>
+
+<p>The overland made Evanston, Wyoming, and went no farther. A wreck ahead
+blocked the line. The dead engineer had been brought in, and his body
+attested the peril of the way. A tramp, also, had been killed, but his
+body had not been brought in. I talked with the boy. He was thirteen years
+old. He had run away from his folks in some place in Oregon, and was
+heading east to his grandmother. He had a tale of cruel treatment in the
+home he had left that rang true; besides, there was no need for him to lie
+to me, a nameless hobo on the track.</p>
+
+<p>And that boy was going some, too. He couldn't cover the ground fast
+enough. When the division superintendents decided to send the overland
+back over the way it had come, then up on a cross &quot;jerk&quot; to the Oregon
+Short Line, and back along that road to tap the Union Pacific the other
+side of the wreck, that boy climbed upon the pilot and said he was going
+to stay with it. This was too much for the Swede and me. It meant
+travelling the rest of that frigid night in order to gain no more than a
+dozen miles or so. We said we'd wait till the wreck was cleared away, and
+in the meantime get a good sleep.</p>
+
+<p>Now it is no snap to strike a strange town, broke, at midnight, in cold
+weather, and find a place to sleep. The Swede hadn't a penny. My total
+assets consisted of two dimes and a nickel. From some of the town boys we
+learned that beer was five cents, and that the saloons kept open all
+night. There was our meat. Two glasses of beer would cost ten cents, there
+would be a stove and chairs, and we could sleep it out till morning. We
+headed for the lights of a saloon, walking briskly, the snow crunching
+under our feet, a chill little wind blowing through us.</p>
+
+<p>Alas, I had misunderstood the town boys. Beer was five cents in one saloon
+only in the whole burg, and we didn't strike that saloon. But the one we
+entered was all right. A blessed stove was roaring white-hot; there were
+cosey, cane-bottomed arm-chairs, and a none-too-pleasant-looking barkeeper
+who glared suspiciously at us as we came in. A man cannot spend continuous
+days and nights in his clothes, beating trains, fighting soot and
+cinders, and sleeping anywhere, and maintain a good &quot;front.&quot; Our fronts
+were decidedly against us; but what did we care? I had the price in my
+jeans.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Two beers,&quot; said I nonchalantly to the barkeeper, and while he drew them,
+the Swede and I leaned against the bar and yearned secretly for the
+arm-chairs by the stove.</p>
+
+<p>The barkeeper set the two foaming glasses before us, and with pride I
+deposited the ten cents. Now I was dead game. As soon as I learned my
+error in the price I'd have dug up another ten cents. Never mind if it did
+leave me only a nickel to my name, a stranger in a strange land. I'd have
+paid it all right. But that barkeeper never gave me a chance. As soon as
+his eyes spotted the dime I had laid down, he seized the two glasses, one
+in each hand, and dumped the beer into the sink behind the bar. At the
+same time, glaring at us malevolently, he said:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You've got scabs on your nose. You've got scabs on your nose. You've got
+scabs on your nose. See!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I hadn't either, and neither had the Swede. Our noses were all right. The
+direct bearing of his words was beyond our comprehension, but the indirect
+bearing was clear as print: he didn't like our looks, and beer was
+evidently ten cents a glass.</p>
+
+<p>I dug down and laid another dime on the bar, remarking carelessly, &quot;Oh, I
+thought this was a five-cent joint.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Your money's no good here,&quot; he answered, shoving the two dimes across the
+bar to me.</p>
+
+<p>Sadly I dropped them back into my pocket, sadly we yearned toward the
+blessed stove and the arm-chairs, and sadly we went out the door into the
+frosty night.</p>
+
+<p>But as we went out the door, the barkeeper, still glaring, called after
+us, &quot;You've got scabs on your nose, see!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I have seen much of the world since then, journeyed among strange lands
+and peoples, opened many books, sat in many lecture-halls; but to this
+day, though I have pondered long and deep, I have been unable to divine
+the meaning in the cryptic utterance of that barkeeper in Evanston,
+Wyoming. Our noses <i>were</i> all right.</p>
+
+<p>We slept that night over the boilers in an electric-lighting plant. How we
+discovered that &quot;kipping&quot; place I can't remember. We must have just headed
+for it, instinctively, as horses head for water or carrier-pigeons head
+for the home-cote. But it was a night not pleasant to remember. A dozen
+hoboes were ahead of us on top the boilers, and it was too hot for all of
+us. To complete our misery, the engineer would not let us stand around
+down below. He gave us our choice of the boilers or the outside snow.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You said you wanted to sleep, and so, damn you, sleep,&quot; said he to me,
+when, frantic and beaten out by the heat, I came down into the fire-room.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Water,&quot; I gasped, wiping the sweat from my eyes, &quot;water.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He pointed out of doors and assured me that down there somewhere in the
+blackness I'd find the river. I started for the river, got lost in the
+dark, fell into two or three drifts, gave it up, and returned half-frozen
+to the top of the boilers. When I had thawed out, I was thirstier than
+ever. Around me the hoboes were moaning, groaning, sobbing, sighing,
+gasping, panting, rolling and tossing and floundering heavily in their
+torment. We were so many lost souls toasting on a griddle in hell, and the
+engineer, Satan Incarnate, gave us the sole alternative of freezing in the
+outer cold. The Swede sat up and anathematized passionately the wanderlust
+in man that sent him tramping and suffering hardships such as that.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;When I get back to Chicago,&quot; he perorated, &quot;I'm going to get a job and
+stick to it till hell freezes over. Then I'll go tramping again.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>And, such is the irony of fate, next day, when the wreck ahead was
+cleared, the Swede and I pulled out of Evanston in the ice-boxes of an
+&quot;orange special,&quot; a fast freight laden with fruit from sunny California.
+Of course, the ice-boxes were empty on account of the cold weather, but
+that didn't make them any warmer for us. We entered them through hatchways
+in the top of the car; the boxes were constructed of galvanized iron, and
+in that biting weather were not pleasant to the touch. We lay there,
+shivered and shook, and with chattering teeth held a council wherein we
+decided that we'd stay by the ice-boxes day and night till we got out of
+the inhospitable plateau region and down into the Mississippi Valley.</p>
+
+<p>But we must eat, and we decided that at the next division we would throw
+our feet for grub and make a rush back to our ice-boxes. We arrived in the
+town of Green River late in the afternoon, but too early for supper.
+Before meal-time is the worst time for &quot;battering&quot; back-doors; but we put
+on our nerve, swung off the side-ladders as the freight pulled into the
+yards, and made a run for the houses. We were quickly separated; but we
+had agreed to meet in the ice-boxes. I had bad luck at first; but in the
+end, with a couple of &quot;hand-outs&quot; poked into my shirt, I chased for the
+train. It was pulling out and going fast. The particular refrigerator-car
+in which we were to meet had already gone by, and half a dozen cars down
+the train from it I swung on to the side-ladders, went up on top
+hurriedly, and dropped down into an ice-box.</p>
+
+<p>But a shack had seen me from the caboose, and at the next stop a few miles
+farther on, Rock Springs, the shack stuck his head into my box and said:
+&quot;Hit the grit, you son of a toad! Hit the grit!&quot; Also he grabbed me by the
+heels and dragged me out. I hit the grit all right, and the orange special
+and the Swede rolled on without me.</p>
+
+<p>Snow was beginning to fall. A cold night was coming on. After dark I
+hunted around in the railroad yards until I found an empty refrigerator
+car. In I climbed&mdash;not into the ice-boxes, but into the car itself. I
+swung the heavy doors shut, and their edges, covered with strips of
+rubber, sealed the car air-tight. The walls were thick. There was no way
+for the outside cold to get in. But the inside was just as cold as the
+outside. How to raise the temperature was the problem. But trust a
+&quot;profesh&quot; for that. Out of my pockets I dug up three or four newspapers.
+These I burned, one at a time, on the floor of the car. The smoke rose to
+the top. Not a bit of the heat could escape, and, comfortable and warm, I
+passed a beautiful night. I didn't wake up once.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning it was still snowing. While throwing my feet for breakfast,
+I missed an east-bound freight. Later in the day I nailed two other
+freights and was ditched from both of them. All afternoon no east-bound
+trains went by. The snow was falling thicker than ever, but at twilight I
+rode out on the first blind of the overland. As I swung aboard the blind
+from one side, somebody swung aboard from the other. It was the boy who
+had run away from Oregon.</p>
+
+<p>Now the first blind of a fast train in a driving snow-storm is no summer
+picnic. The wind goes right through one, strikes the front of the car, and
+comes back again. At the first stop, darkness having come on, I went
+forward and interviewed the fireman. I offered to &quot;shove&quot; coal to the end
+of his run, which was Rawlins, and my offer was accepted. My work was out
+on the tender, in the snow, breaking the lumps of coal with a sledge and
+shovelling it forward to him in the cab. But as I did not have to work all
+the time, I could come into the cab and warm up now and again.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Say,&quot; I said to the fireman, at my first breathing spell, &quot;there's a
+little kid back there on the first blind. He's pretty cold.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The cabs on the Union Pacific engines are quite spacious, and we fitted
+the kid into a warm nook in front of the high seat of the fireman, where
+the kid promptly fell asleep. We arrived at Rawlins at midnight. The snow
+was thicker than ever. Here the engine was to go into the round-house,
+being replaced by a fresh engine. As the train came to a stop, I dropped
+off the engine steps plump into the arms of a large man in a large
+overcoat. He began asking me questions, and I promptly demanded who he
+was. Just as promptly he informed me that he was the sheriff. I drew in my
+horns and listened and answered.</p>
+
+<p>He began describing the kid who was still asleep in the cab. I did some
+quick thinking. Evidently the family was on the trail of the kid, and the
+sheriff had received telegraphed instructions from Oregon. Yes, I had seen
+the kid. I had met him first in Ogden. The date tallied with the sheriff's
+information. But the kid was still behind somewhere, I explained, for he
+had been ditched from that very overland that night when it pulled out of
+Rock Springs. And all the time I was praying that the kid wouldn't wake
+up, come down out of the cab, and put the &quot;kibosh&quot; on me.</p>
+
+<p>The sheriff left me in order to interview the shacks, but before he left
+he said:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Bo, this town is no place for you. Understand? You ride this train out,
+and make no mistake about it. If I catch you after it's gone ...&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I assured him that it was not through desire that I was in his town; that
+the only reason I was there was that the train had stopped there; and that
+he wouldn't see me for smoke the way I'd get out of his darn town.</p>
+
+<p>While he went to interview the shacks, I jumped back into the cab. The kid
+was awake and rubbing his eyes. I told him the news and advised him to
+ride the engine into the round-house. To cut the story short, the kid made
+the same overland out, riding the pilot, with instructions to make an
+appeal to the fireman at the first stop for permission to ride in the
+engine. As for myself, I got ditched. The new fireman was young and not
+yet lax enough to break the rules of the Company against having tramps in
+the engine; so he turned down my offer to shove coal. I hope the kid
+succeeded with him, for all night on the pilot in that blizzard would have
+meant death.</p>
+
+<p>Strange to say, I do not at this late day remember a detail of how I was
+ditched at Rawlins. I remember watching the train as it was immediately
+swallowed up in the snow-storm, and of heading for a saloon to warm up.
+Here was light and warmth. Everything was in full blast and wide open.
+Faro, roulette, craps, and poker tables were running, and some mad
+cow-punchers were making the night merry. I had just succeeded in
+fraternizing with them and was downing my first drink at their expense,
+when a heavy hand descended on my shoulder. I looked around and sighed. It
+was the sheriff.</p>
+
+<p>Without a word he led me out into the snow.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;There's an orange special down there in the yards,&quot; said he.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;It's a damn cold night,&quot; said I.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;It pulls out in ten minutes,&quot; said he.</p>
+
+<p>That was all. There was no discussion. And when that orange special pulled
+out, I was in the ice-boxes. I thought my feet would freeze before
+morning, and the last twenty miles into Laramie I stood upright in the
+hatchway and danced up and down. The snow was too thick for the shacks to
+see me, and I didn't care if they did.</p>
+
+<p>My quarter of a dollar bought me a hot breakfast at Laramie, and
+immediately afterward I was on board the blind baggage of an overland that
+was climbing to the pass through the backbone of the Rockies. One does not
+ride blind baggages in the daytime; but in this blizzard at the top of
+the Rocky Mountains I doubted if the shacks would have the heart to put me
+off. And they didn't. They made a practice of coming forward at every stop
+to see if I was frozen yet.</p>
+
+<p>At Ames' Monument, at the summit of the Rockies,&mdash;I forget the
+altitude,&mdash;the shack came forward for the last time.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Say, Bo,&quot; he said, &quot;you see that freight side-tracked over there to let
+us go by?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I saw. It was on the next track, six feet away. A few feet more in that
+storm and I could not have seen it.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Well, the 'after-push' of Kelly's Army is in one of them cars. They've
+got two feet of straw under them, and there's so many of them that they
+keep the car warm.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>His advice was good, and I followed it, prepared, however, if it was a
+&quot;con game&quot; the shack had given me, to take the blind as the overland
+pulled out. But it was straight goods. I found the car&mdash;a big refrigerator
+car with the leeward door wide open for ventilation. Up I climbed and in.
+I stepped on a man's leg, next on some other man's arm. The light was dim,
+and all I could make out was arms and legs and bodies inextricably
+confused. Never was there such a tangle of humanity. They were all lying
+in the straw, and over, and under, and around one another. Eighty-four
+husky hoboes take up a lot of room when they are stretched out. The men I
+stepped on were resentful. Their bodies heaved under me like the waves of
+the sea, and imparted an involuntary forward movement to me. I could not
+find any straw to step upon, so I stepped upon more men. The resentment
+increased, so did my forward movement. I lost my footing and sat down with
+sharp abruptness. Unfortunately, it was on a man's head. The next moment
+he had risen on his hands and knees in wrath, and I was flying through the
+air. What goes up must come down, and I came down on another man's head.</p>
+
+<p>What happened after that is very vague in my memory. It was like going
+through a threshing-machine. I was bandied about from one end of the car
+to the other. Those eighty-four hoboes winnowed me out till what little
+was left of me, by some miracle, found a bit of straw to rest upon. I was
+initiated, and into a jolly crowd. All the rest of that day we rode
+through the blizzard, and to while the time away it was decided that each
+man was to tell a story. It was stipulated that each story must be a good
+one, and, furthermore, that it must be a story no one had ever heard
+before. The penalty for failure was the threshing-machine. Nobody failed.
+And I want to say right here that never in my life have I sat at so
+marvellous a story-telling debauch. Here were eighty-four men from all the
+world&mdash;I made eighty-five; and each man told a masterpiece. It had to be,
+for it was either masterpiece or threshing-machine.</p>
+
+<p>Late in the afternoon we arrived in Cheyenne. The blizzard was at its
+height, and though the last meal of all of us had been breakfast, no man
+cared to throw his feet for supper. All night we rolled on through the
+storm, and next day found us down on the sweet plains of Nebraska and
+still rolling. We were out of the storm and the mountains. The blessed sun
+was shining over a smiling land, and we had eaten nothing for twenty-four
+hours. We found out that the freight would arrive about noon at a town, if
+I remember right, that was called Grand Island.</p>
+
+<p>We took up a collection and sent a telegram to the authorities of that
+town. The text of the message was that eighty-five healthy, hungry hoboes
+would arrive about noon and that it would be a good idea to have dinner
+ready for them. The authorities of Grand Island had two courses open to
+them. They could feed us, or they could throw us in jail. In the latter
+event they'd have to feed us anyway, and they decided wisely that one meal
+would be the cheaper way.</p>
+
+<p>When the freight rolled into Grand Island at noon, we were sitting on the
+tops of the cars and dangling our legs in the sunshine. All the police in
+the burg were on the reception committee. They marched us in squads to the
+various hotels and restaurants, where dinners were spread for us. We had
+been thirty-six hours without food, and we didn't have to be taught what
+to do. After that we were marched back to the railroad station. The police
+had thoughtfully compelled the freight to wait for us. She pulled out
+slowly, and the eighty-five of us, strung out along the track, swarmed up
+the side-ladders. We &quot;captured&quot; the train.</p>
+
+<p>We had no supper that evening&mdash;at least the &quot;push&quot; didn't, but I did. Just
+at supper time, as the freight was pulling out of a small town, a man
+climbed into the car where I was playing pedro with three other stiffs.
+The man's shirt was bulging suspiciously. In his hand he carried a
+battered quart-measure from which arose steam. I smelled &quot;Java.&quot; I turned
+my cards over to one of the stiffs who was looking on, and excused myself.
+Then, in the other end of the car, pursued by envious glances, I sat down
+with the man who had climbed aboard and shared his &quot;Java&quot; and the
+hand-outs that had bulged his shirt. It was the Swede.</p>
+
+<p>At about ten o'clock in the evening, we arrived at Omaha.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Let's shake the push,&quot; said the Swede to me.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Sure,&quot; said I.</p>
+
+<p>As the freight pulled into Omaha, we made ready to do so. But the people
+of Omaha were also ready. The Swede and I hung upon the side-ladders,
+ready to drop off. But the freight did not stop. Furthermore, long rows of
+policemen, their brass buttons and stars glittering in the electric
+lights, were lined up on each side of the track. The Swede and I knew what
+would happen to us if we ever dropped off into their arms. We stuck by the
+side-ladders, and the train rolled on across the Missouri River to Council
+Bluffs.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;General&quot; Kelly, with an army of two thousand hoboes, lay in camp at
+Chautauqua Park, several miles away. The after-push we were with was
+General Kelly's rear-guard, and, detraining at Council Bluffs, it started
+to march to camp. The night had turned cold, and heavy wind-squalls,
+accompanied by rain, were chilling and wetting us. Many police were
+guarding us and herding us to the camp. The Swede and I watched our chance
+and made a successful get-away.</p>
+
+<p>The rain began coming down in torrents, and in the darkness, unable to see
+our hands in front of our faces, like a pair of blind men we fumbled about
+for shelter. Our instinct served us, for in no time we stumbled upon a
+saloon&mdash;not a saloon that was open and doing business, not merely a saloon
+that was closed for the night, and not even a saloon with a permanent
+address, but a saloon propped up on big timbers, with rollers underneath,
+that was being moved from somewhere to somewhere. The doors were locked. A
+squall of wind and rain drove down upon us. We did not hesitate. Smash
+went the door, and in we went.</p>
+
+<p>I have made some tough camps in my time, &quot;carried the banner&quot; in infernal
+metropolises, bedded in pools of water, slept in the snow under two
+blankets when the spirit thermometer registered seventy-four degrees below
+zero (which is a mere trifle of one hundred and six degrees of frost); but
+I want to say right here that never did I make a tougher camp, pass a more
+miserable night, than that night I passed with the Swede in the itinerant
+saloon at Council Bluffs. In the first place, the building, perched up as
+it was in the air, had exposed a multitude of openings in the floor
+through which the wind whistled. In the second place, the bar was empty;
+there was no bottled fire-water with which we could warm ourselves and
+forget our misery. We had no blankets, and in our wet clothes, wet to the
+skin, we tried to sleep. I rolled under the bar, and the Swede rolled
+under the table. The holes and crevices in the floor made it impossible,
+and at the end of half an hour I crawled up on top the bar. A little later
+the Swede crawled up on top his table.</p>
+
+<p>And there we shivered and prayed for daylight. I know, for one, that I
+shivered until I could shiver no more, till the shivering muscles
+exhausted themselves and merely ached horribly. The Swede moaned and
+groaned, and every little while, through chattering teeth, he muttered,
+&quot;Never again; never again.&quot; He muttered this phrase repeatedly,
+ceaselessly, a thousand times; and when he dozed, he went on muttering it
+in his sleep.</p>
+
+<p>At the first gray of dawn we left our house of pain, and outside, found
+ourselves in a mist, dense and chill. We stumbled on till we came to the
+railroad track. I was going back to Omaha to throw my feet for breakfast;
+my companion was going on to Chicago. The moment for parting had come. Our
+palsied hands went out to each other. We were both shivering. When we
+tried to speak, our teeth chattered us back into silence. We stood alone,
+shut off from the world; all that we could see was a short length of
+railroad track, both ends of which were lost in the driving mist. We
+stared dumbly at each other, our clasped hands shaking sympathetically.
+The Swede's face was blue with the cold, and I know mine must have been.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Never again what?&quot; I managed to articulate.</p>
+
+<p>Speech strove for utterance in the Swede's throat; then faint and
+distant, in a thin whisper from the very bottom of his frozen soul, came
+the words:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Never again a hobo.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He paused, and, as he went on again, his voice gathered strength and
+huskiness as it affirmed his will.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Never again a hobo. I'm going to get a job. You'd better do the same.
+Nights like this make rheumatism.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He wrung my hand.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Good-by, Bo,&quot; said he.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Good-by, Bo,&quot; said I.</p>
+
+<p>The next we were swallowed up from each other by the mist. It was our
+final passing. But here's to you, Mr. Swede, wherever you are. I hope you
+got that job.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Road_Kids_and_Gay_Cats" id="Road_Kids_and_Gay_Cats" /><i>Road-Kids and Gay-Cats</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>Every once in a while, in newspapers, magazines, and biographical
+dictionaries, I run upon sketches of my life, wherein, delicately phrased,
+I learn that it was in order to study sociology that I became a tramp.
+This is very nice and thoughtful of the biographers, but it is inaccurate.
+I became a tramp&mdash;well, because of the life that was in me, of the
+wanderlust in my blood that would not let me rest. Sociology was merely
+incidental; it came afterward, in the same manner that a wet skin follows
+a ducking. I went on &quot;The Road&quot; because I couldn't keep away from it;
+because I hadn't the price of the railroad fare in my jeans; because I was
+so made that I couldn't work all my life on &quot;one same shift&quot;;
+because&mdash;well, just because it was easier to than not to.</p>
+
+<p>It happened in my own town, in Oakland, when I was sixteen. At that time I
+had attained a dizzy reputation in my chosen circle of adventurers, by
+whom I was known as the Prince of the Oyster Pirates. It is true, those
+immediately outside my circle, such as honest bay-sailors, longshoremen,
+yachtsmen, and the legal owners of the oysters, called me &quot;tough,&quot;
+&quot;hoodlum,&quot; &quot;smoudge,&quot; &quot;thief,&quot; &quot;robber,&quot; and various other not nice
+things&mdash;all of which was complimentary and but served to increase the
+dizziness of the high place in which I sat. At that time I had not read
+&quot;Paradise Lost,&quot; and later, when I read Milton's &quot;Better to reign in hell
+than serve in heaven,&quot; I was fully convinced that great minds run in the
+same channels.</p>
+
+<p>It was at this time that the fortuitous concatenation of events sent me
+upon my first adventure on The Road. It happened that there was nothing
+doing in oysters just then; that at Benicia, forty miles away, I had some
+blankets I wanted to get; and that at Port Costa, several miles from
+Benicia, a stolen boat lay at anchor in charge of the constable. Now this
+boat was owned by a friend of mine, by name Dinny McCrea. It had been
+stolen and left at Port Costa by Whiskey Bob, another friend of mine.
+(Poor Whiskey Bob! Only last winter his body was picked up on the beach
+shot full of holes by nobody knows whom.) I had come down from &quot;up river&quot;
+some time before, and reported to Dinny McCrea the whereabouts of his
+boat; and Dinny McCrea had promptly offered ten dollars to me if I should
+bring it down to Oakland to him.</p>
+
+<p>Time was heavy on my hands. I sat on the dock and talked it over with
+Nickey the Greek, another idle oyster pirate. &quot;Let's go,&quot; said I, and
+Nickey was willing. He was &quot;broke.&quot; I possessed fifty cents and a small
+skiff. The former I invested and loaded into the latter in the form of
+crackers, canned corned beef, and a ten-cent bottle of French mustard. (We
+were keen on French mustard in those days.) Then, late in the afternoon,
+we hoisted our small spritsail and started. We sailed all night, and next
+morning, on the first of a glorious flood-tide, a fair wind behind us, we
+came booming up the Carquinez Straits to Port Costa. There lay the stolen
+boat, not twenty-five feet from the wharf. We ran alongside and doused our
+little spritsail. I sent Nickey forward to lift the anchor, while I began
+casting off the gaskets.</p>
+
+<p>A man ran out on the wharf and hailed us. It was the constable. It
+suddenly came to me that I had neglected to get a written authorization
+from Dinny McCrea to take possession of his boat. Also, I knew that
+constable wanted to charge at least twenty-five dollars in fees for
+capturing the boat from Whiskey Bob and subsequently taking care of it.
+And my last fifty cents had been blown in for corned beef and French
+mustard, and the reward was only ten dollars anyway. I shot a glance
+forward to Nickey. He had the anchor up-and-down and was straining at it.
+&quot;Break her out,&quot; I whispered to him, and turned and shouted back to the
+constable. The result was that he and I were talking at the same time, our
+spoken thoughts colliding in mid-air and making gibberish.</p>
+
+<p>The constable grew more imperative, and perforce I had to listen. Nickey
+was heaving on the anchor till I thought he'd burst a blood-vessel. When
+the constable got done with his threats and warnings, I asked him who he
+was. The time he lost in telling me enabled Nickey to break out the
+anchor. I was doing some quick calculating. At the feet of the constable a
+ladder ran down the dock to the water, and to the ladder was moored a
+skiff. The oars were in it. But it was padlocked. I gambled everything on
+that padlock. I felt the breeze on my cheek, saw the surge of the tide,
+looked at the remaining gaskets that confined the sail, ran my eyes up the
+halyards to the blocks and knew that all was clear, and then threw off all
+dissimulation.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;In with her!&quot; I shouted to Nickey, and sprang to the gaskets, casting
+them loose and thanking my stars that Whiskey Bob had tied them in
+square-knots instead of &quot;grannies.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The constable had slid down the ladder and was fumbling with a key at the
+padlock. The anchor came aboard and the last gasket was loosed at the same
+instant that the constable freed the skiff and jumped to the oars.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Peak-halyards!&quot; I commanded my crew, at the same time swinging on to the
+throat-halyards. Up came the sail on the run. I belayed and ran aft to the
+tiller.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Stretch her!&quot; I shouted to Nickey at the peak. The constable was just
+reaching for our stern. A puff of wind caught us, and we shot away. It was
+great. If I'd had a black flag, I know I'd have run it up in triumph. The
+constable stood up in the skiff, and paled the glory of the day with the
+vividness of his language. Also, he wailed for a gun. You see, that was
+another gamble we had taken.</p>
+
+<p>Anyway, we weren't stealing the boat. It wasn't the constable's. We were
+merely stealing his fees, which was his particular form of graft. And we
+weren't stealing the fees for ourselves, either; we were stealing them for
+my friend, Dinny McCrea.</p>
+
+<p>Benicia was made in a few minutes, and a few minutes later my blankets
+were aboard. I shifted the boat down to the far end of Steamboat Wharf,
+from which point of vantage we could see anybody coming after us. There
+was no telling. Maybe the Port Costa constable would telephone to the
+Benicia constable. Nickey and I held a council of war. We lay on deck in
+the warm sun, the fresh breeze on our cheeks, the flood-tide rippling and
+swirling past. It was impossible to start back to Oakland till afternoon,
+when the ebb would begin to run. But we figured that the constable would
+have an eye out on the Carquinez Straits when the ebb started, and that
+nothing remained for us but to wait for the following ebb, at two o'clock
+next morning, when we could slip by Cerberus in the darkness.</p>
+
+<p>So we lay on deck, smoked cigarettes, and were glad that we were alive. I
+spat over the side and gauged the speed of the current.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;With this wind, we could run this flood clear to Rio Vista,&quot; I said.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;And it's fruit-time on the river,&quot; said Nickey.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;And low water on the river,&quot; said I. &quot;It's the best time of the year to
+make Sacramento.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>We sat up and looked at each other. The glorious west wind was pouring
+over us like wine. We both spat over the side and gauged the current. Now
+I contend that it was all the fault of that flood-tide and fair wind. They
+appealed to our sailor instinct. If it had not been for them, the whole
+chain of events that was to put me upon The Road would have broken down.</p>
+
+<p>We said no word, but cast off our moorings and hoisted sail. Our
+adventures up the Sacramento River are no part of this narrative. We
+subsequently made the city of Sacramento and tied up at a wharf. The water
+was fine, and we spent most of our time in swimming. On the sand-bar above
+the railroad bridge we fell in with a bunch of boys likewise in swimming.
+Between swims we lay on the bank and talked. They talked differently from
+the fellows I had been used to herding with. It was a new vernacular. They
+were road-kids, and with every word they uttered the lure of The Road laid
+hold of me more imperiously.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;When I was down in Alabama,&quot; one kid would begin; or, another, &quot;Coming up
+on the C. &amp; A. from K.C.&quot;; whereat, a third kid, &quot;On the C. &amp; A. there
+ain't no steps to the 'blinds.'&quot; And I would lie silently in the sand and
+listen. &quot;It was at a little town in Ohio on the Lake Shore and Michigan
+Southern,&quot; a kid would start; and another, &quot;Ever ride the Cannonball on
+the Wabash?&quot;; and yet another, &quot;Nope, but I've been on the White Mail out
+of Chicago.&quot; &quot;Talk about railroadin'&mdash;wait till you hit the Pennsylvania,
+four tracks, no water tanks, take water on the fly, that's goin' some.&quot;
+&quot;The Northern Pacific's a bad road now.&quot; &quot;Salinas is on the 'hog,' the
+'bulls' is 'horstile.'&quot; &quot;I got 'pinched' at El Paso, along with Moke Kid.&quot;
+&quot;Talkin' of 'poke-outs,' wait till you hit the French country out of
+Montreal&mdash;not a word of English&mdash;you say, 'Mongee, Madame, mongee, no
+spika da French,' an' rub your stomach an' look hungry, an' she gives you
+a slice of sow-belly an' a chunk of dry 'punk.'&quot;</p>
+
+<p>And I continued to lie in the sand and listen. These wanderers made my
+oyster-piracy look like thirty cents. A new world was calling to me in
+every word that was spoken&mdash;a world of rods and gunnels, blind baggages
+and &quot;side-door Pullmans,&quot; &quot;bulls&quot; and &quot;shacks,&quot; &quot;floppings&quot; and
+&quot;chewin's,&quot; &quot;pinches&quot; and &quot;get-aways,&quot; &quot;strong arms&quot; and &quot;bindle-stiffs,&quot;
+&quot;punks&quot; and &quot;profesh.&quot; And it all spelled Adventure. Very well; I would
+tackle this new world. I &quot;lined&quot; myself up alongside those road-kids. I
+was just as strong as any of them, just as quick, just as nervy, and my
+brain was just as good.</p>
+
+<p>After the swim, as evening came on, they dressed and went up town. I went
+along. The kids began &quot;battering&quot; the &quot;main-stem&quot; for &quot;light pieces,&quot; or,
+in other words, begging for money on the main street. I had never begged
+in my life, and this was the hardest thing for me to stomach when I first
+went on The Road. I had absurd notions about begging. My philosophy, up to
+that time, was that it was finer to steal than to beg; and that robbery
+was finer still because the risk and the penalty were proportionately
+greater. As an oyster pirate I had already earned convictions at the hands
+of justice, which, if I had tried to serve them, would have required a
+thousand years in state's prison. To rob was manly; to beg was sordid and
+despicable. But I developed in the days to come all right, all right, till
+I came to look upon begging as a joyous prank, a game of wits, a
+nerve-exerciser.</p>
+
+<p>That first night, however, I couldn't rise to it; and the result was that
+when the kids were ready to go to a restaurant and eat, I wasn't. I was
+broke. Meeny Kid, I think it was, gave me the price, and we all ate
+together. But while I ate, I meditated. The receiver, it was said, was as
+bad as the thief; Meeny Kid had done the begging, and I was profiting by
+it. I decided that the receiver was a whole lot worse than the thief, and
+that it shouldn't happen again. And it didn't. I turned out next day and
+threw my feet as well as the next one.</p>
+
+<p>Nickey the Greek's ambition didn't run to The Road. He was not a success
+at throwing his feet, and he stowed away one night on a barge and went
+down river to San Francisco. I met him, only a week ago, at a pugilistic
+carnival. He has progressed. He sat in a place of honor at the ring-side.
+He is now a manager of prize-fighters and proud of it. In fact, in a small
+way, in local sportdom, he is quite a shining light.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;No kid is a road-kid until he has gone over 'the hill'&quot;&mdash;such was the law
+of The Road I heard expounded in Sacramento. All right, I'd go over the
+hill and matriculate. &quot;The hill,&quot; by the way, was the Sierra Nevadas. The
+whole gang was going over the hill on a jaunt, and of course I'd go along.
+It was French Kid's first adventure on The Road. He had just run away from
+his people in San Francisco. It was up to him and me to deliver the goods.
+In passing, I may remark that my old title of &quot;Prince&quot; had vanished. I had
+received my &quot;monica.&quot; I was now &quot;Sailor Kid,&quot; later to be known as
+&quot;'Frisco Kid,&quot; when I had put the Rockies between me and my native state.</p>
+
+<p>At 10.20 P.M. the Central Pacific overland pulled out of the depot at
+Sacramento for the East&mdash;that particular item of time-table is indelibly
+engraved on my memory. There were about a dozen in our gang, and we strung
+out in the darkness ahead of the train ready to take her out. All the
+local road-kids that we knew came down to see us off&mdash;also, to &quot;ditch&quot; us
+if they could. That was their idea of a joke, and there were only about
+forty of them to carry it out. Their ring-leader was a crackerjack
+road-kid named Bob. Sacramento was his home town, but he'd hit The Road
+pretty well everywhere over the whole country. He took French Kid and me
+aside and gave us advice something like this: &quot;We're goin' to try an'
+ditch your bunch, see? Youse two are weak. The rest of the push can take
+care of itself. So, as soon as youse two nail a blind, deck her. An' stay
+on the decks till youse pass Roseville Junction, at which burg the
+constables are horstile, sloughin' in everybody on sight.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The engine whistled and the overland pulled out. There were three blinds
+on her&mdash;room for all of us. The dozen of us who were trying to make her
+out would have preferred to slip aboard quietly; but our forty friends
+crowded on with the most amazing and shameless publicity and
+advertisement. Following Bob's advice, I immediately &quot;decked her,&quot; that
+is, climbed up on top of the roof of one of the mail-cars. There I lay
+down, my heart jumping a few extra beats, and listened to the fun. The
+whole train crew was forward, and the ditching went on fast and furious.
+After the train had run half a mile, it stopped, and the crew came forward
+again and ditched the survivors. I, alone, had made the train out.</p>
+
+<p>Back at the depot, about him two or three of the push that had witnessed
+the accident, lay French Kid with both legs off. French Kid had slipped or
+stumbled&mdash;that was all, and the wheels had done the rest. Such was my
+initiation to The Road. It was two years afterward when I next saw French
+Kid and examined his &quot;stumps.&quot; This was an act of courtesy. &quot;Cripples&quot;
+always like to have their stumps examined. One of the entertaining sights
+on The Road is to witness the meeting of two cripples. Their common
+disability is a fruitful source of conversation; and they tell how it
+happened, describe what they know of the amputation, pass critical
+judgment on their own and each other's surgeons, and wind up by
+withdrawing to one side, taking off bandages and wrappings, and comparing
+stumps.</p>
+
+<p>But it was not until several days later, over in Nevada, when the push
+caught up with me, that I learned of French Kid's accident. The push
+itself arrived in bad condition. It had gone through a train-wreck in the
+snow-sheds; Happy Joe was on crutches with two mashed legs, and the rest
+were nursing skins and bruises.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime, I lay on the roof of the mail-car, trying to remember
+whether Roseville Junction, against which burg Bob had warned me, was the
+first stop or the second stop. To make sure, I delayed descending to the
+platform of the blind until after the second stop. And then I didn't
+descend. I was new to the game, and I felt safer where I was. But I never
+told the push that I held down the decks the whole night, clear across the
+Sierras, through snow-sheds and tunnels, and down to Truckee on the other
+side, where I arrived at seven in the morning. Such a thing was
+disgraceful, and I'd have been a common laughing-stock. This is the first
+time I have confessed the truth about that first ride over the hill. As
+for the push, it decided that I was all right, and when I came back over
+the hill to Sacramento, I was a full-fledged road-kid.</p>
+
+<p>Yet I had much to learn. Bob was my mentor, and he was all right. I
+remember one evening (it was fair-time in Sacramento, and we were knocking
+about and having a good time) when I lost my hat in a fight. There was I
+bare-headed in the street, and it was Bob to the rescue. He took me to one
+side from the push and told me what to do. I was a bit timid of his
+advice. I had just come out of jail, where I had been three days, and I
+knew that if the police &quot;pinched&quot; me again, I'd get good and &quot;soaked.&quot; On
+the other hand, I couldn't show the white feather. I'd been over the hill,
+I was running full-fledged with the push, and it was up to me to deliver
+the goods. So I accepted Bob's advice, and he came along with me to see
+that I did it up brown.</p>
+
+<p>We took our position on K Street, on the corner, I think, of Fifth. It was
+early in the evening and the street was crowded. Bob studied the head-gear
+of every Chinaman that passed. I used to wonder how the road-kids all
+managed to wear &quot;five-dollar Stetson stiff-rims,&quot; and now I knew. They got
+them, the way I was going to get mine, from the Chinese. I was
+nervous&mdash;there were so many people about; but Bob was cool as an iceberg.
+Several times, when I started forward toward a Chinaman, all nerved and
+keyed up, Bob dragged me back. He wanted me to get a good hat, and one
+that fitted. Now a hat came by that was the right size but not new; and,
+after a dozen impossible hats, along would come one that was new but not
+the right size. And when one did come by that was new and the right size,
+the rim was too large or not large enough. My, Bob was finicky. I was so
+wrought up that I'd have snatched any kind of a head-covering.</p>
+
+<p>At last came the hat, the one hat in Sacramento for me. I knew it was a
+winner as soon as I looked at it. I glanced at Bob. He sent a sweeping
+look-about for police, then nodded his head. I lifted the hat from the
+Chinaman's head and pulled it down on my own. It was a perfect fit. Then I
+started. I heard Bob crying out, and I caught a glimpse of him blocking
+the irate Mongolian and tripping him up. I ran on. I turned up the next
+corner, and around the next. This street was not so crowded as K, and I
+walked along in quietude, catching my breath and congratulating myself
+upon my hat and my get-away.</p>
+
+<p>And then, suddenly, around the corner at my back, came the bare-headed
+Chinaman. With him were a couple more Chinamen, and at their heels were
+half a dozen men and boys. I sprinted to the next corner, crossed the
+street, and rounded the following corner. I decided that I had surely
+played him out, and I dropped into a walk again. But around the corner at
+my heels came that persistent Mongolian. It was the old story of the hare
+and the tortoise. He could not run so fast as I, but he stayed with it,
+plodding along at a shambling and deceptive trot, and wasting much good
+breath in noisy imprecations. He called all Sacramento to witness the
+dishonor that had been done him, and a goodly portion of Sacramento heard
+and flocked at his heels. And I ran on like the hare, and ever that
+persistent Mongolian, with the increasing rabble, overhauled me. But
+finally, when a policeman had joined his following, I let out all my
+links. I twisted and turned, and I swear I ran at least twenty blocks on
+the straight away. And I never saw that Chinaman again. The hat was a
+dandy, a brand-new Stetson, just out of the shop, and it was the envy of
+the whole push. Furthermore, it was the symbol that I had delivered the
+goods. I wore it for over a year.</p>
+
+<p>Road-kids are nice little chaps&mdash;when you get them alone and they are
+telling you &quot;how it happened&quot;; but take my word for it, watch out for them
+when they run in pack. Then they are wolves, and like wolves they are
+capable of dragging down the strongest man. At such times they are not
+cowardly. They will fling themselves upon a man and hold on with every
+ounce of strength in their wiry bodies, till he is thrown and helpless.
+More than once have I seen them do it, and I know whereof I speak. Their
+motive is usually robbery. And watch out for the &quot;strong arm.&quot; Every kid
+in the push I travelled with was expert at it. Even French Kid mastered it
+before he lost his legs.</p>
+
+<p>I have strong upon me now a vision of what I once saw in &quot;The Willows.&quot;
+The Willows was a clump of trees in a waste piece of land near the railway
+depot and not more than five minutes walk from the heart of Sacramento.
+It is night-time and the scene is illumined by the thin light of stars. I
+see a husky laborer in the midst of a pack of road-kids. He is infuriated
+and cursing them, not a bit afraid, confident of his own strength. He
+weighs about one hundred and eighty pounds, and his muscles are hard; but
+he doesn't know what he is up against. The kids are snarling. It is not
+pretty. They make a rush from all sides, and he lashes out and whirls.
+Barber Kid is standing beside me. As the man whirls, Barber Kid leaps
+forward and does the trick. Into the man's back goes his knee; around the
+man's neck, from behind, passes his right hand, the bone of the wrist
+pressing against the jugular vein. Barber Kid throws his whole weight
+backward. It is a powerful leverage. Besides, the man's wind has been shut
+off. It is the strong arm.</p>
+
+<p>The man resists, but he is already practically helpless. The road-kids are
+upon him from every side, clinging to arms and legs and body, and like a
+wolf at the throat of a moose Barber Kid hangs on and drags backward. Over
+the man goes, and down under the heap. Barber Kid changes the position of
+his own body, but never lets go. While some of the kids are &quot;going
+through&quot; the victim, others are holding his legs so that he cannot kick
+and thresh about. They improve the opportunity by taking off the man's
+shoes. As for him, he has given in. He is beaten. Also, what of the strong
+arm at his throat, he is short of wind. He is making ugly choking noises,
+and the kids hurry. They really don't want to kill him. All is done. At a
+word all holds are released at once, and the kids scatter, one of them
+lugging the shoes&mdash;he knows where he can get half a dollar for them. The
+man sits up and looks about him, dazed and helpless. Even if he wanted to,
+barefooted pursuit in the darkness would be hopeless. I linger a moment
+and watch him. He is feeling at his throat, making dry, hawking noises,
+and jerking his head in a quaint way as though to assure himself that the
+neck is not dislocated. Then I slip away to join the push, and see that
+man no more&mdash;though I shall always see him, sitting there in the
+starlight, somewhat dazed, a bit frightened, greatly dishevelled, and
+making quaint jerking movements of head and neck.</p>
+
+<p>Drunken men are the especial prey of the road-kids. Robbing a drunken man
+they call &quot;rolling a stiff&quot;; and wherever they are, they are on the
+constant lookout for drunks. The drunk is their particular meat, as the
+fly is the particular meat of the spider. The rolling of a stiff is
+ofttimes an amusing sight, especially when the stiff is helpless and when
+interference is unlikely. At the first swoop the stiff's money and
+jewellery go. Then the kids sit around their victim in a sort of pow-wow.
+A kid generates a fancy for the stiff's necktie. Off it comes. Another kid
+is after underclothes. Off they come, and a knife quickly abbreviates arms
+and legs. Friendly hoboes may be called in to take the coat and trousers,
+which are too large for the kids. And in the end they depart, leaving
+beside the stiff the heap of their discarded rags.</p>
+
+<p>Another vision comes to me. It is a dark night. My push is coming along
+the sidewalk in the suburbs. Ahead of us, under an electric light, a man
+crosses the street diagonally. There is something tentative and desultory
+in his walk. The kids scent the game on the instant. The man is drunk. He
+blunders across the opposite sidewalk and is lost in the darkness as he
+takes a short-cut through a vacant lot. No hunting cry is raised, but the
+pack flings itself forward in quick pursuit. In the middle of the vacant
+lot it comes upon him. But what is this?&mdash;snarling and strange forms,
+small and dim and menacing, are between the pack and its prey. It is
+another pack of road-kids, and in the hostile pause we learn that it is
+their meat, that they have been trailing it a dozen blocks and more and
+that we are butting in. But it is the world primeval. These wolves are
+baby wolves. (As a matter of fact, I don't think one of them was over
+twelve or thirteen years of age. I met some of them afterward, and learned
+that they had just arrived that day over the hill, and that they hailed
+from Denver and Salt Lake City.) Our pack flings forward. The baby wolves
+squeal and screech and fight like little demons. All about the drunken man
+rages the struggle for the possession of him. Down he goes in the thick of
+it, and the combat rages over his body after the fashion of the Greeks and
+Trojans over the body and armor of a fallen hero. Amid cries and tears and
+wailings the baby wolves are dispossessed, and my pack rolls the stiff.
+But always I remember the poor stiff and his befuddled amazement at the
+abrupt eruption of battle in the vacant lot. I see him now, dim in the
+darkness, titubating in stupid wonder, good-naturedly essaying the role of
+peacemaker in that multitudinous scrap the significance of which he did
+not understand, and the really hurt expression on his face when he,
+unoffending he, was clutched at by many hands and dragged down in the
+thick of the press.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Bindle-stiffs&quot; are favorite prey of the road-kids. A bindle-stiff is a
+working tramp. He takes his name from the roll of blankets he carries,
+which is known as a &quot;bindle.&quot; Because he does work, a bindle-stiff is
+expected usually to have some small change about him, and it is after that
+small change that the road-kids go. The best hunting-ground for
+bindle-stiffs is in the sheds, barns, lumber-yards, railroad-yards, etc.,
+on the edges of a city, and the time for hunting is the night, when the
+bindle-stiff seeks these places to roll up in his blankets and sleep.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Gay-cats&quot; also come to grief at the hands of the road-kid. In more
+familiar parlance, gay-cats are short-horns, <i>chechaquos</i>, new chums, or
+tenderfeet. A gay-cat is a newcomer on The Road who is man-grown, or, at
+least, youth-grown. A boy on The Road, on the other hand, no matter how
+green he is, is never a gay-cat; he is a road-kid or a &quot;punk,&quot; and if he
+travels with a &quot;profesh,&quot; he is known possessively as a &quot;prushun.&quot; I was
+never a prushun, for I did not take kindly to possession. I was first a
+road-kid and then a profesh. Because I started in young, I practically
+skipped my gay-cat apprenticeship. For a short period, during the time I
+was exchanging my 'Frisco Kid monica for that of Sailor Jack, I labored
+under the suspicion of being a gay-cat. But closer acquaintance on the
+part of those that suspected me quickly disabused their minds, and in a
+short time I acquired the unmistakable airs and ear-marks of the
+blowed-in-the-glass profesh. And be it known, here and now, that the
+profesh are the aristocracy of The Road. They are the lords and masters,
+the aggressive men, the primordial noblemen, the <i>blond beasts</i> so beloved
+of Nietzsche.</p>
+
+<p>When I came back over the hill from Nevada, I found that some river pirate
+had stolen Dinny McCrea's boat. (A funny thing at this day is that I
+cannot remember what became of the skiff in which Nickey the Greek and I
+sailed from Oakland to Port Costa. I know that the constable didn't get
+it, and I know that it didn't go with us up the Sacramento River, and that
+is all I do know.) With the loss of Dinny McCrea's boat, I was pledged to
+The Road; and when I grew tired of Sacramento, I said good-by to the push
+(which, in its friendly way, tried to ditch me from a freight as I left
+town) and started on a <i>passear</i> down the valley of the San Joaquin. The
+Road had gripped me and would not let me go; and later, when I had voyaged
+to sea and done one thing and another, I returned to The Road to make
+longer flights, to be a &quot;comet&quot; and a profesh, and to plump into the bath
+of sociology that wet me to the skin.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Two_Thousand_Stiffs" id="Two_Thousand_Stiffs" /><i>Two Thousand Stiffs</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>A &quot;stiff&quot; is a tramp. It was once my fortune to travel a few weeks with a
+&quot;push&quot; that numbered two thousand. This was known as &quot;Kelly's Army.&quot;
+Across the wild and woolly West, clear from California, General Kelly and
+his heroes had captured trains; but they fell down when they crossed the
+Missouri and went up against the effete East. The East hadn't the
+slightest intention of giving free transportation to two thousand hoboes.
+Kelly's Army lay helplessly for some time at Council Bluffs. The day I
+joined it, made desperate by delay, it marched out to capture a train.</p>
+
+<p>It was quite an imposing sight. General Kelly sat a magnificent black
+charger, and with waving banners, to the martial music of fife and drum
+corps, company by company, in two divisions, his two thousand stiffs
+countermarched before him and hit the wagon-road to the little burg of
+Weston, seven miles away. Being the latest recruit, I was in the last
+company, of the last regiment, of the Second Division, and, furthermore,
+in the last rank of the rear-guard. The army went into camp at Weston
+beside the railroad track&mdash;beside the tracks, rather, for two roads went
+through: the Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul, and the Rock Island.</p>
+
+<p>Our intention was to take the first train out, but the railroad officials
+&quot;coppered&quot; our play&mdash;and won. There was no first train. They tied up the
+two lines and stopped running trains. In the meantime, while we lay by the
+dead tracks, the good people of Omaha and Council Bluffs were bestirring
+themselves. Preparations were making to form a mob, capture a train in
+Council Bluffs, run it down to us, and make us a present of it. The
+railroad officials coppered that play, too. They didn't wait for the mob.
+Early in the morning of the second day, an engine, with a single private
+car attached, arrived at the station and side-tracked. At this sign that
+life had renewed in the dead roads, the whole army lined up beside the
+track.</p>
+
+<p>But never did life renew so monstrously on a dead railroad as it did on
+those two roads. From the west came the whistle of a locomotive. It was
+coming in our direction, bound east. We were bound east. A stir of
+preparation ran down our ranks. The whistle tooted fast and furiously, and
+the train thundered at top speed. The hobo didn't live that could have
+boarded it. Another locomotive whistled, and another train came through at
+top speed, and another, and another, train after train, train after train,
+till toward the last the trains were composed of passenger coaches,
+box-cars, flat-cars, dead engines, cabooses, mail-cars, wrecking
+appliances, and all the riff-raff of worn-out and abandoned rolling-stock
+that collects in the yards of great railways. When the yards at Council
+Bluffs had been completely cleaned, the private car and engine went east,
+and the tracks died for keeps.</p>
+
+<p>That day went by, and the next, and nothing moved, and in the meantime,
+pelted by sleet, and rain, and hail, the two thousand hoboes lay beside
+the track. But that night the good people of Council Bluffs went the
+railroad officials one better. A mob formed in Council Bluffs, crossed the
+river to Omaha, and there joined with another mob in a raid on the Union
+Pacific yards. First they captured an engine, next they knocked a train
+together, and then the united mobs piled aboard, crossed the Missouri, and
+ran down the Rock Island right of way to turn the train over to us. The
+railway officials tried to copper this play, but fell down, to the mortal
+terror of the section boss and one member of the section gang at Weston.
+This pair, under secret telegraphic orders, tried to wreck our train-load
+of sympathizers by tearing up the track. It happened that we were
+suspicious and had our patrols out. Caught red-handed at train-wrecking,
+and surrounded by twenty hundred infuriated hoboes, that section-gang boss
+and assistant prepared to meet death. I don't remember what saved them,
+unless it was the arrival of the train.</p>
+
+<p>It was our turn to fall down, and we did, hard. In their haste, the two
+mobs had neglected to make up a sufficiently long train. There wasn't room
+for two thousand hoboes to ride. So the mobs and the hoboes had a
+talkfest, fraternized, sang songs, and parted, the mobs going back on
+their captured train to Omaha, the hoboes pulling out next morning on a
+hundred-and-forty-mile march to Des Moines. It was not until Kelly's Army
+crossed the Missouri that it began to walk, and after that it never rode
+again. It cost the railroads slathers of money, but they were acting on
+principle, and they won.</p>
+
+<p>Underwood, Leola, Menden, Avoca, Walnut, Marno, Atlantic, Wyoto, Anita,
+Adair, Adam, Casey, Stuart, Dexter, Carlham, De Soto, Van Meter,
+Booneville, Commerce, Valley Junction&mdash;how the names of the towns come
+back to me as I con the map and trace our route through the fat Iowa
+country! And the hospitable Iowa farmer-folk! They turned out with their
+wagons and carried our baggage; gave us hot lunches at noon by the
+wayside; mayors of comfortable little towns made speeches of welcome and
+hastened us on our way; deputations of little girls and maidens came out
+to meet us, and the good citizens turned out by hundreds, locked arms, and
+marched with us down their main streets. It was circus day when we came to
+town, and every day was circus day, for there were many towns.</p>
+
+<p>In the evenings our camps were invaded by whole populations. Every company
+had its campfire, and around each fire something was doing. The cooks in
+my company, Company L, were song-and-dance artists and contributed most of
+our entertainment. In another part of the encampment the glee club would
+be singing&mdash;one of its star voices was the &quot;Dentist,&quot; drawn from Company
+L, and we were mighty proud of him. Also, he pulled teeth for the whole
+army, and, since the extractions usually occurred at meal-time, our
+digestions were stimulated by variety of incident. The Dentist had no
+an&aelig;sthetics, but two or three of us were always on tap to volunteer to
+hold down the patient. In addition to the stunts of the companies and the
+glee club, church services were usually held, local preachers officiating,
+and always there was a great making of political speeches. All these
+things ran neck and neck; it was a full-blown Midway. A lot of talent can
+be dug out of two thousand hoboes. I remember we had a picked baseball
+nine, and on Sundays we made a practice of putting it all over the local
+nines. Sometimes we did it twice on Sundays.</p>
+
+<p>Last year, while on a lecturing trip, I rode into Des Moines in a
+Pullman&mdash;I don't mean a &quot;side-door Pullman,&quot; but the real thing. On the
+outskirts of the city I saw the old stove-works, and my heart leaped. It
+was there, at the stove-works, a dozen years before, that the Army lay
+down and swore a mighty oath that its feet were sore and that it would
+walk no more. We took possession of the stove-works and told Des Moines
+that we had come to stay&mdash;that we'd walked in, but we'd be blessed if we'd
+walk out. Des Moines was hospitable, but this was too much of a good
+thing. Do a little mental arithmetic, gentle reader. Two thousand hoboes,
+eating three square meals, make six thousand meals per day, forty-two
+thousand meals per week, or one hundred and sixty-eight thousand meals per
+shortest month in the calendar. That's going some. We had no money. It was
+up to Des Moines.</p>
+
+<p>Des Moines was desperate. We lay in camp, made political speeches, held
+sacred concerts, pulled teeth, played baseball and seven-up, and ate our
+six thousand meals per day, and Des Moines paid for it. Des Moines pleaded
+with the railroads, but they were obdurate; they had said we shouldn't
+ride, and that settled it. To permit us to ride would be to establish a
+precedent, and there weren't going to be any precedents. And still we went
+on eating. That was the terrifying factor in the situation. We were bound
+for Washington, and Des Moines would have had to float municipal bonds to
+pay all our railroad fares, even at special rates, and if we remained much
+longer, she'd have to float bonds anyway to feed us.</p>
+
+<p>Then some local genius solved the problem. We wouldn't walk. Very good. We
+should ride. From Des Moines to Keokuk on the Mississippi flowed the Des
+Moines River. This particular stretch of river was three hundred miles
+long. We could ride on it, said the local genius; and, once equipped with
+floating stock, we could ride on down the Mississippi to the Ohio, and
+thence up the Ohio, winding up with a short portage over the mountains to
+Washington.</p>
+
+<p>Des Moines took up a subscription. Public-spirited citizens contributed
+several thousand dollars. Lumber, rope, nails, and cotton for calking were
+bought in large quantities, and on the banks of the Des Moines was
+inaugurated a tremendous era of shipbuilding. Now the Des Moines is a
+picayune stream, unduly dignified by the appellation of &quot;river.&quot; In our
+spacious western land it would be called a &quot;creek.&quot; The oldest inhabitants
+shook their heads and said we couldn't make it, that there wasn't enough
+water to float us. Des Moines didn't care, so long as it got rid of us,
+and we were such well-fed optimists that we didn't care either.</p>
+
+<p>On Wednesday, May 9, 1894, we got under way and started on our colossal
+picnic. Des Moines had got off pretty easily, and she certainly owes a
+statue in bronze to the local genius who got her out of her difficulty.
+True, Des Moines had to pay for our boats; we had eaten sixty-six thousand
+meals at the stove-works; and we took twelve thousand additional meals
+along with us in our commissary&mdash;as a precaution against famine in the
+wilds; but then, think what it would have meant if we had remained at Des
+Moines eleven months instead of eleven days. Also, when we departed, we
+promised Des Moines we'd come back if the river failed to float us.</p>
+
+<p>It was all very well having twelve thousand meals in the commissary, and
+no doubt the commissary &quot;ducks&quot; enjoyed them; for the commissary promptly
+got lost, and my boat, for one, never saw it again. The company formation
+was hopelessly broken up during the river-trip. In any camp of men there
+will always be found a certain percentage of shirks, of helpless, of just
+ordinary, and of hustlers. There were ten men in my boat, and they were
+the cream of Company L. Every man was a hustler. For two reasons I was
+included in the ten. First, I was as good a hustler as ever &quot;threw his
+feet,&quot; and next, I was &quot;Sailor Jack.&quot; I understood boats and boating. The
+ten of us forgot the remaining forty men of Company L, and by the time we
+had missed one meal we promptly forgot the commissary. We were
+independent. We went down the river &quot;on our own,&quot; hustling our &quot;chewin's,&quot;
+beating every boat in the fleet, and, alas that I must say it, sometimes
+taking possession of the stores the farmer-folk had collected for the
+Army.</p>
+
+<p>For a good part of the three hundred miles we were from half a day to a
+day or so in advance of the Army. We had managed to get hold of several
+American flags. When we approached a small town, or when we saw a group of
+farmers gathered on the bank, we ran up our flags, called ourselves the
+&quot;advance boat,&quot; and demanded to know what provisions had been collected
+for the Army. We represented the Army, of course, and the provisions were
+turned over to us. But there wasn't anything small about us. We never
+took more than we could get away with. But we did take the cream of
+everything. For instance, if some philanthropic farmer had donated several
+dollars' worth of tobacco, we took it. So, also, we took butter and sugar,
+coffee and canned goods; but when the stores consisted of sacks of beans
+and flour, or two or three slaughtered steers, we resolutely refrained and
+went our way, leaving orders to turn such provisions over to the
+commissary boats whose business was to follow behind us.</p>
+
+<p>My, but the ten of us did live on the fat of the land! For a long time
+General Kelly vainly tried to head us off. He sent two rowers, in a light,
+round-bottomed boat, to overtake us and put a stop to our piratical
+careers. They overtook us all right, but they were two and we were ten.
+They were empowered by General Kelly to make us prisoners, and they told
+us so. When we expressed disinclination to become prisoners, they hurried
+ahead to the next town to invoke the aid of the authorities. We went
+ashore immediately and cooked an early supper; and under the cloak of
+darkness we ran by the town and its authorities.</p>
+
+<p>I kept a diary on part of the trip, and as I read it over now I note one
+persistently recurring phrase, namely, &quot;Living fine.&quot; We did live fine. We
+even disdained to use coffee boiled in water. We made our coffee out of
+milk, calling the wonderful beverage, if I remember rightly, &quot;pale
+Vienna.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>While we were ahead, skimming the cream, and while the commissary was lost
+far behind, the main Army, coming along in the middle, starved. This was
+hard on the Army, I'll allow; but then, the ten of us were individualists.
+We had initiative and enterprise. We ardently believed that the grub was
+to the man who got there first, the pale Vienna to the strong. On one
+stretch the Army went forty-eight hours without grub; and then it arrived
+at a small village of some three hundred inhabitants, the name of which I
+do not remember, though I think it was Red Rock. This town, following the
+practice of all towns through which the Army passed, had appointed a
+committee of safety. Counting five to a family, Red Rock consisted of
+sixty households. Her committee of safety was scared stiff by the eruption
+of two thousand hungry hoboes who lined their boats two and three deep
+along the river bank. General Kelly was a fair man. He had no intention
+of working a hardship on the village. He did not expect sixty households
+to furnish two thousand meals. Besides, the Army had its treasure-chest.</p>
+
+<p>But the committee of safety lost its head. &quot;No encouragement to the
+invader&quot; was its programme, and when General Kelly wanted to buy food, the
+committee turned him down. It had nothing to sell; General Kelly's money
+was &quot;no good&quot; in their burg. And then General Kelly went into action. The
+bugles blew. The Army left the boats and on top of the bank formed in
+battle array. The committee was there to see. General Kelly's speech was
+brief.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Boys,&quot; he said, &quot;when did you eat last?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Day before yesterday,&quot; they shouted.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Are you hungry?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>A mighty affirmation from two thousand throats shook the atmosphere. Then
+General Kelly turned to the committee of safety:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You see, gentlemen, the situation. My men have eaten nothing in
+forty-eight hours. If I turn them loose upon your town, I'll not be
+responsible for what happens. They are desperate. I offered to buy food
+for them, but you refused to sell. I now withdraw my offer. Instead, I
+shall demand. I give you five minutes to decide. Either kill me six steers
+and give me four thousand rations, or I turn the men loose. Five minutes,
+gentlemen.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The terrified committee of safety looked at the two thousand hungry hoboes
+and collapsed. It didn't wait the five minutes. It wasn't going to take
+any chances. The killing of the steers and the collecting of the
+requisition began forthwith, and the Army dined.</p>
+
+<p>And still the ten graceless individualists soared along ahead and gathered
+in everything in sight. But General Kelly fixed us. He sent horsemen down
+each bank, warning farmers and townspeople against us. They did their work
+thoroughly, all right. The erstwhile hospitable farmers met us with the
+icy mit. Also, they summoned the constables when we tied up to the bank,
+and loosed the dogs. I know. Two of the latter caught me with a
+barbed-wire fence between me and the river. I was carrying two buckets of
+milk for the pale Vienna. I didn't damage the fence any; but we drank
+plebian coffee boiled with vulgar water, and it was up to me to throw my
+feet for another pair of trousers. I wonder, gentle reader, if you ever
+essayed hastily to climb a barbed-wire fence with a bucket of milk in each
+hand. Ever since that day I have had a prejudice against barbed wire, and
+I have gathered statistics on the subject.</p>
+
+<p>Unable to make an honest living so long as General Kelly kept his two
+horsemen ahead of us, we returned to the Army and raised a revolution. It
+was a small affair, but it devastated Company L of the Second Division.
+The captain of Company L refused to recognize us; said we were deserters,
+and traitors, and scalawags; and when he drew rations for Company L from
+the commissary, he wouldn't give us any. That captain didn't appreciate
+us, or he wouldn't have refused us grub. Promptly we intrigued with the
+first lieutenant. He joined us with the ten men in his boat, and in return
+we elected him captain of Company M. The captain of Company L raised a
+roar. Down upon us came General Kelly, Colonel Speed, and Colonel Baker.
+The twenty of us stood firm, and our revolution was ratified.</p>
+
+<p>But we never bothered with the commissary. Our hustlers drew better
+rations from the farmers. Our new captain, however, doubted us. He never
+knew when he'd see the ten of us again, once we got under way in the
+morning, so he called in a blacksmith to clinch his captaincy. In the
+stern of our boat, one on each side, were driven two heavy eye-bolts of
+iron. Correspondingly, on the bow of his boat, were fastened two huge iron
+hooks. The boats were brought together, end on, the hooks dropped into the
+eye-bolts, and there we were, hard and fast. We couldn't lose that
+captain. But we were irrepressible. Out of our very manacles we wrought an
+invincible device that enabled us to put it all over every other boat in
+the fleet.</p>
+
+<p>Like all great inventions, this one of ours was accidental. We discovered
+it the first time we ran on a snag in a bit of a rapid. The head-boat hung
+up and anchored, and the tail-boat swung around in the current, pivoting
+the head-boat on the snag. I was at the stern of the tail-boat, steering.
+In vain we tried to shove off. Then I ordered the men from the head-boat
+into the tail-boat. Immediately the head-boat floated clear, and its men
+returned into it. After that, snags, reefs, shoals, and bars had no
+terrors for us. The instant the head-boat struck, the men in it leaped
+into the tail-boat. Of course, the head-boat floated over the obstruction
+and the tail-boat then struck. Like automatons, the twenty men now in the
+tail-boat leaped into the head-boat, and the tail-boat floated past.</p>
+
+<p>The boats used by the Army were all alike, made by the mile and sawed off.
+They were flat-boats, and their lines were rectangles. Each boat was six
+feet wide, ten feet long, and a foot and a half deep. Thus, when our two
+boats were hooked together, I sat at the stern steering a craft twenty
+feet long, containing twenty husky hoboes who &quot;spelled&quot; each other at the
+oars and paddles, and loaded with blankets, cooking outfit, and our own
+private commissary.</p>
+
+<p>Still we caused General Kelly trouble. He had called in his horsemen, and
+substituted three police-boats that travelled in the van and allowed no
+boats to pass them. The craft containing Company M crowded the
+police-boats hard. We could have passed them easily, but it was against
+the rules. So we kept a respectful distance astern and waited. Ahead we
+knew was virgin farming country, unbegged and generous; but we waited.
+White water was all we needed, and when we rounded a bend and a rapid
+showed up we knew what would happen. Smash! Police-boat number one goes on
+a boulder and hangs up. Bang! Police-boat number two follows suit. Whop!
+Police-boat number three encounters the common fate of all. Of course our
+boat does the same things; but one, two, the men are out of the head-boat
+and into the tail-boat; one, two, they are out of the tail-boat and into
+the head-boat; and one, two, the men who belong in the tail-boat are back
+in it and we are dashing on. &quot;Stop! you blankety-blank-blanks!&quot; shriek the
+police-boats. &quot;How can we?&mdash;blank the blankety-blank river, anyway!&quot; we
+wail plaintively as we surge past, caught in that remorseless current that
+sweeps us on out of sight and into the hospitable farmer-country that
+replenishes our private commissary with the cream of its contributions.
+Again we drink pale Vienna and realize that the grub is to the man who
+gets there.</p>
+
+<p>Poor General Kelly! He devised another scheme. The whole fleet started
+ahead of us. Company M of the Second Division started in its proper place
+in the line, which was last. And it took us only one day to put the
+&quot;kibosh&quot; on that particular scheme. Twenty-five miles of bad water lay
+before us&mdash;all rapids, shoals, bars, and boulders. It was over that
+stretch of water that the oldest inhabitants of Des Moines had shaken
+their heads. Nearly two hundred boats entered the bad water ahead of us,
+and they piled up in the most astounding manner. We went through that
+stranded fleet like hemlock through the fire. There was no avoiding the
+boulders, bars, and snags except by getting out on the bank. We didn't
+avoid them. We went right over them, one, two, one, two, head-boat,
+tail-boat, head-boat, tail-boat, all hands back and forth and back again.
+We camped that night alone, and loafed in camp all of next day while the
+Army patched and repaired its wrecked boats and straggled up to us.</p>
+
+<p>There was no stopping our cussedness. We rigged up a mast, piled on the
+canvas (blankets), and travelled short hours while the Army worked
+over-time to keep us in sight. Then General Kelly had recourse to
+diplomacy. No boat could touch us in the straight-away. Without
+discussion, we were the hottest bunch that ever came down the Des Moines.
+The ban of the police-boats was lifted. Colonel Speed was put aboard, and
+with this distinguished officer we had the honor of arriving first at
+Keokuk on the Mississippi. And right here I want to say to General Kelly
+and Colonel Speed that here's my hand. You were heroes, both of you, and
+you were men. And I'm sorry for at least ten per cent of the trouble that
+was given you by the head-boat of Company M.</p>
+
+<p>At Keokuk the whole fleet was lashed together in a huge raft, and, after
+being wind-bound a day, a steamboat took us in tow down the Mississippi to
+Quincy, Illinois, where we camped across the river on Goose Island. Here
+the raft idea was abandoned, the boats being joined together in groups of
+four and decked over. Somebody told me that Quincy was the richest town of
+its size in the United States. When I heard this, I was immediately
+overcome by an irresistible impulse to throw my feet. No
+&quot;blowed-in-the-glass profesh&quot; could possibly pass up such a promising
+burg. I crossed the river to Quincy in a small dug-out; but I came back
+in a large riverboat, down to the gunwales with the results of my thrown
+feet. Of course I kept all the money I had collected, though I paid the
+boat-hire; also I took my pick of the underwear, socks, cast-off clothes,
+shirts, &quot;kicks,&quot; and &quot;sky-pieces&quot;; and when Company M had taken all it
+wanted there was still a respectable heap that was turned over to Company
+L. Alas, I was young and prodigal in those days! I told a thousand
+&quot;stories&quot; to the good people of Quincy, and every story was &quot;good&quot;; but
+since I have come to write for the magazines I have often regretted the
+wealth of story, the fecundity of fiction, I lavished that day in Quincy,
+Illinois.</p>
+
+<p>It was at Hannibal, Missouri, that the ten invincibles went to pieces. It
+was not planned. We just naturally flew apart. The Boiler-Maker and I
+deserted secretly. On the same day Scotty and Davy made a swift sneak for
+the Illinois shore; also McAvoy and Fish achieved their get-away. This
+accounts for six of the ten; what became of the remaining four I do not
+know. As a sample of life on The Road, I make the following quotation from
+my diary of the several days following my desertion.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Friday, May 25th. Boiler-Maker and I left the camp on the island. We went
+ashore on the Illinois side in a skiff and walked six miles on the C.B. &amp;
+Q. to Fell Creek. We had gone six miles out of our way, but we got on a
+hand-car and rode six miles to Hull's, on the Wabash. While there, we met
+McAvoy, Fish, Scotty, and Davy, who had also pulled out from the Army.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Saturday, May 26th. At 2.11 A.M. we caught the Cannonball as she slowed
+up at the crossing. Scotty and Davy were ditched. The four of us were
+ditched at the Bluffs, forty miles farther on. In the afternoon Fish and
+McAvoy caught a freight while Boiler-Maker and I were away getting
+something to eat.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Sunday, May 27th. At 3.21 A.M. we caught the Cannonball and found Scotty
+and Davy on the blind. We were all ditched at daylight at Jacksonville.
+The C. &amp; A. runs through here, and we're going to take that. Boiler-Maker
+went off, but didn't return. Guess he caught a freight.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Monday, May 28th. Boiler-Maker didn't show up. Scotty and Davy went off
+to sleep somewhere, and didn't get back in time to catch the K.C.
+passenger at 3.30 A.M. I caught her and rode her till after sunrise to
+Masson City, 25,000 inhabitants. Caught a cattle train and rode all night.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Tuesday, May 29th. Arrived in Chicago at 7 A.M....&quot;</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>And years afterward, in China, I had the grief of learning that the device
+we employed to navigate the rapids of the Des Moines&mdash;the one-two-one-two,
+head-boat-tail-boat proposition&mdash;was not originated by us. I learned that
+the Chinese river-boatmen had for thousands of years used a similar device
+to negotiate &quot;bad water.&quot; It is a good stunt all right, even if we don't
+get the credit. It answers Dr. Jordan's test of truth: &quot;Will it work? Will
+you trust your life to it?&quot;</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Bulls" id="Bulls" /><i>Bulls</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>If the tramp were suddenly to pass away from the United States, widespread
+misery for many families would follow. The tramp enables thousands of men
+to earn honest livings, educate their children, and bring them up
+God-fearing and industrious. I know. At one time my father was a constable
+and hunted tramps for a living. The community paid him so much per head
+for all the tramps he could catch, and also, I believe, he got mileage
+fees. Ways and means was always a pressing problem in our household, and
+the amount of meat on the table, the new pair of shoes, the day's outing,
+or the text-book for school, were dependent upon my father's luck in the
+chase. Well I remember the suppressed eagerness and the suspense with
+which I waited to learn each morning what the results of his past night's
+toil had been&mdash;how many tramps he had gathered in and what the chances
+were for convicting them. And so it was, when later, as a tramp, I
+succeeded in eluding some predatory constable, I could not but feel sorry
+for the little boys and girls at home in that constable's house; it seemed
+to me in a way that I was defrauding those little boys and girls of some
+of the good things of life.</p>
+
+<p>But it's all in the game. The hobo defies society, and society's
+watch-dogs make a living out of him. Some hoboes like to be caught by the
+watch-dogs&mdash;especially in winter-time. Of course, such hoboes select
+communities where the jails are &quot;good,&quot; wherein no work is performed and
+the food is substantial. Also, there have been, and most probably still
+are, constables who divide their fees with the hoboes they arrest. Such a
+constable does not have to hunt. He whistles, and the game comes right up
+to his hand. It is surprising, the money that is made out of stone-broke
+tramps. All through the South&mdash;at least when I was hoboing&mdash;are convict
+camps and plantations, where the time of convicted hoboes is bought by the
+farmers, and where the hoboes simply have to work. Then there are places
+like the quarries at Rutland, Vermont, where the hobo is exploited, the
+unearned energy in his body, which he has accumulated by &quot;battering on
+the drag&quot; or &quot;slamming gates,&quot; being extracted for the benefit of that
+particular community.</p>
+
+<p>Now I don't know anything about the quarries at Rutland, Vermont. I'm very
+glad that I don't, when I remember how near I was to getting into them.
+Tramps pass the word along, and I first heard of those quarries when I was
+in Indiana. But when I got into New England, I heard of them continually,
+and always with danger-signals flying. &quot;They want men in the quarries,&quot;
+the passing hoboes said; &quot;and they never give a 'stiff' less than ninety
+days.&quot; By the time I got into New Hampshire I was pretty well keyed up
+over those quarries, and I fought shy of railroad cops, &quot;bulls,&quot; and
+constables as I never had before.</p>
+
+<p>One evening I went down to the railroad yards at Concord and found a
+freight train made up and ready to start. I located an empty box-car, slid
+open the side-door, and climbed in. It was my hope to win across to White
+River by morning; that would bring me into Vermont and not more than a
+thousand miles from Rutland. But after that, as I worked north, the
+distance between me and the point of danger would begin to increase. In
+the car I found a &quot;gay-cat,&quot; who displayed unusual trepidation at my
+entrance. He took me for a &quot;shack&quot; (brakeman), and when he learned I was
+only a stiff, he began talking about the quarries at Rutland as the cause
+of the fright I had given him. He was a young country fellow, and had
+beaten his way only over local stretches of road.</p>
+
+<p>The freight got under way, and we lay down in one end of the box-car and
+went to sleep. Two or three hours afterward, at a stop, I was awakened by
+the noise of the right-hand door being softly slid open. The gay-cat slept
+on. I made no movement, though I veiled my eyes with my lashes to a little
+slit through which I could see out. A lantern was thrust in through the
+doorway, followed by the head of a shack. He discovered us, and looked at
+us for a moment. I was prepared for a violent expression on his part, or
+the customary &quot;Hit the grit, you son of a toad!&quot; Instead of this he
+cautiously withdrew the lantern and very, very softly slid the door to.
+This struck me as eminently unusual and suspicious. I listened, and softly
+I heard the hasp drop into place. The door was latched on the outside. We
+could not open it from the inside. One way of sudden exit from that car
+was blocked. It would never do. I waited a few seconds, then crept to the
+left-hand door and tried it. It was not yet latched. I opened it, dropped
+to the ground, and closed it behind me. Then I passed across the bumpers
+to the other side of the train. I opened the door the shack had latched,
+climbed in, and closed it behind me. Both exits were available again. The
+gay-cat was still asleep.</p>
+
+<p>The train got under way. It came to the next stop. I heard footsteps in
+the gravel. Then the left-hand door was thrown open noisily. The gay-cat
+awoke, I made believe to awake; and we sat up and stared at the shack and
+his lantern. He didn't waste any time getting down to business.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I want three dollars,&quot; he said.</p>
+
+<p>We got on our feet and came nearer to him to confer. We expressed an
+absolute and devoted willingness to give him three dollars, but explained
+our wretched luck that compelled our desire to remain unsatisfied. The
+shack was incredulous. He dickered with us. He would compromise for two
+dollars. We regretted our condition of poverty. He said uncomplimentary
+things, called us sons of toads, and damned us from hell to breakfast.
+Then he threatened. He explained that if we didn't dig up, he'd lock us in
+and carry us on to White River and turn us over to the authorities. He
+also explained all about the quarries at Rutland.</p>
+
+<p>Now that shack thought he had us dead to rights. Was not he guarding the
+one door, and had he not himself latched the opposite door but a few
+minutes before? When he began talking about quarries, the frightened
+gay-cat started to sidle across to the other door. The shack laughed loud
+and long. &quot;Don't be in a hurry,&quot; he said; &quot;I locked that door on the
+outside at the last stop.&quot; So implicitly did he believe the door to be
+locked that his words carried conviction. The gay-cat believed and was in
+despair.</p>
+
+<p>The shack delivered his ultimatum. Either we should dig up two dollars, or
+he would lock us in and turn us over to the constable at White River&mdash;and
+that meant ninety days and the quarries. Now, gentle reader, just suppose
+that the other door had been locked. Behold the precariousness of human
+life. For lack of a dollar, I'd have gone to the quarries and served three
+months as a convict slave. So would the gay-cat. Count me out, for I was
+hopeless; but consider the gay-cat. He might have come out, after those
+ninety days, pledged to a life of crime. And later he might have broken
+your skull, even your skull, with a blackjack in an endeavor to take
+possession of the money on your person&mdash;and if not your skull, then some
+other poor and unoffending creature's skull.</p>
+
+<p>But the door was unlocked, and I alone knew it. The gay-cat and I begged
+for mercy. I joined in the pleading and wailing out of sheer cussedness, I
+suppose. But I did my best. I told a &quot;story&quot; that would have melted the
+heart of any mug; but it didn't melt the heart of that sordid
+money-grasper of a shack. When he became convinced that we didn't have any
+money, he slid the door shut and latched it, then lingered a moment on the
+chance that we had fooled him and that we would now offer him the two
+dollars.</p>
+
+<p>Then it was that I let out a few links. I called him a son of a toad. I
+called him all the other things he had called me. And then I called him a
+few additional things. I came from the West, where men knew how to swear,
+and I wasn't going to let any mangy shack on a measly New England &quot;jerk&quot;
+put it over me in vividness and vigor of language. At first the shack
+tried to laugh it down. Then he made the mistake of attempting to reply. I
+let out a few more links, and I cut him to the raw and therein rubbed
+winged and flaming epithets. Nor was my fine frenzy all whim and literary;
+I was indignant at this vile creature, who, in default of a dollar, would
+consign me to three months of slavery. Furthermore, I had a sneaking idea
+that he got a &quot;drag&quot; out of the constable fees.</p>
+
+<p>But I fixed him. I lacerated his feelings and pride several dollars'
+worth. He tried to scare me by threatening to come in after me and kick
+the stuffing out of me. In return, I promised to kick him in the face
+while he was climbing in. The advantage of position was with me, and he
+saw it. So he kept the door shut and called for help from the rest of the
+train-crew. I could hear them answering and crunching through the gravel
+to him. And all the time the other door was unlatched, and they didn't
+know it; and in the meantime the gay-cat was ready to die with fear.</p>
+
+<p>Oh, I was a hero&mdash;with my line of retreat straight behind me. I slanged
+the shack and his mates till they threw the door open and I could see
+their infuriated faces in the shine of the lanterns. It was all very
+simple to them. They had us cornered in the car, and they were going to
+come in and man-handle us. They started. I didn't kick anybody in the
+face. I jerked the opposite door open, and the gay-cat and I went out. The
+train-crew took after us.</p>
+
+<p>We went over&mdash;if I remember correctly&mdash;a stone fence. But I have no doubts
+of recollection about where we found ourselves. In the darkness I promptly
+fell over a grave-stone. The gay-cat sprawled over another. And then we
+got the chase of our lives through that graveyard. The ghosts must have
+thought we were going some. So did the train-crew, for when we emerged
+from the graveyard and plunged across a road into a dark wood, the shacks
+gave up the pursuit and went back to their train. A little later that
+night the gay-cat and I found ourselves at the well of a farmhouse. We
+were after a drink of water, but we noticed a small rope that ran down one
+side of the well. We hauled it up and found on the end of it a gallon-can
+of cream. And that is as near as I got to the quarries of Rutland,
+Vermont.</p>
+
+<p>When hoboes pass the word along, concerning a town, that &quot;the bulls is
+horstile,&quot; avoid that town, or, if you must, go through softly. There are
+some towns that one must always go through softly. Such a town was
+Cheyenne, on the Union Pacific. It had a national reputation for being
+&quot;horstile,&quot;&mdash;and it was all due to the efforts of one Jeff Carr (if I
+remember his name aright). Jeff Carr could size up the &quot;front&quot; of a hobo
+on the instant. He never entered into discussion. In the one moment he
+sized up the hobo, and in the next he struck out with both fists, a club,
+or anything else he had handy. After he had man-handled the hobo, he
+started him out of town with a promise of worse if he ever saw him again.
+Jeff Carr knew the game. North, south, east, and west to the uttermost
+confines of the United States (Canada and Mexico included), the
+man-handled hoboes carried the word that Cheyenne was &quot;horstile.&quot;
+Fortunately, I never encountered Jeff Carr. I passed through Cheyenne in a
+blizzard. There were eighty-four hoboes with me at the time. The strength
+of numbers made us pretty nonchalant on most things, but not on Jeff
+Carr. The connotation of &quot;Jeff Carr&quot; stunned our imagination, numbed our
+virility, and the whole gang was mortally scared of meeting him.</p>
+
+<p>It rarely pays to stop and enter into explanations with bulls when they
+look &quot;horstile.&quot; A swift get-away is the thing to do. It took me some time
+to learn this; but the finishing touch was put upon me by a bull in New
+York City. Ever since that time it has been an automatic process with me
+to make a run for it when I see a bull reaching for me. This automatic
+process has become a mainspring of conduct in me, wound up and ready for
+instant release. I shall never get over it. Should I be eighty years old,
+hobbling along the street on crutches, and should a policeman suddenly
+reach out for me, I know I'd drop the crutches and run like a deer.</p>
+
+<p>The finishing touch to my education in bulls was received on a hot summer
+afternoon in New York City. It was during a week of scorching weather. I
+had got into the habit of throwing my feet in the morning, and of spending
+the afternoon in the little park that is hard by Newspaper Row and the
+City Hall. It was near there that I could buy from pushcart men current
+books (that had been injured in the making or binding) for a few cents
+each. Then, right in the park itself, were little booths where one could
+buy glorious, ice-cold, sterilized milk and buttermilk at a penny a glass.
+Every afternoon I sat on a bench and read, and went on a milk debauch. I
+got away with from five to ten glasses each afternoon. It was dreadfully
+hot weather.</p>
+
+<p>So here I was, a meek and studious milk-drinking hobo, and behold what I
+got for it. One afternoon I arrived at the park, a fresh book-purchase
+under my arm and a tremendous buttermilk thirst under my shirt. In the
+middle of the street, in front of the City Hall, I noticed, as I came
+along heading for the buttermilk booth, that a crowd had formed. It was
+right where I was crossing the street, so I stopped to see the cause of
+the collection of curious men. At first I could see nothing. Then, from
+the sounds I heard and from a glimpse I caught, I knew that it was a bunch
+of gamins playing pee-wee. Now pee-wee is not permitted in the streets of
+New York. I didn't know that, but I learned pretty lively. I had paused
+possibly thirty seconds, in which time I had learned the cause of the
+crowd, when I heard a gamin yell &quot;Bull!&quot; The gamins knew their business.
+They ran. I didn't.</p>
+
+<p>The crowd broke up immediately and started for the sidewalk on both sides
+of the street. I started for the sidewalk on the park-side. There must
+have been fifty men, who had been in the original crowd, who were heading
+in the same direction. We were loosely strung out. I noticed the bull, a
+strapping policeman in a gray suit. He was coming along the middle of the
+street, without haste, merely sauntering. I noticed casually that he
+changed his course, and was heading obliquely for the same sidewalk that I
+was heading for directly. He sauntered along, threading the strung-out
+crowd, and I noticed that his course and mine would cross each other. I
+was so innocent of wrong-doing that, in spite of my education in bulls and
+their ways, I apprehended nothing. I never dreamed that bull was after me.
+Out of my respect for the law I was actually all ready to pause the next
+moment and let him cross in front of me. The pause came all right, but it
+was not of my volition; also it was a backward pause. Without warning,
+that bull had suddenly launched out at me on the chest with both hands. At
+the same moment, verbally, he cast the bar sinister on my genealogy.</p>
+
+<p>All my free American blood boiled. All my liberty-loving ancestors
+clamored in me. &quot;What do you mean?&quot; I demanded. You see, I wanted an
+explanation. And I got it. Bang! His club came down on top of my head, and
+I was reeling backward like a drunken man, the curious faces of the
+onlookers billowing up and down like the waves of the sea, my precious
+book falling from under my arm into the dirt, the bull advancing with the
+club ready for another blow. And in that dizzy moment I had a vision. I
+saw that club descending many times upon my head; I saw myself, bloody and
+battered and hard-looking, in a police-court; I heard a charge of
+disorderly conduct, profane language, resisting an officer, and a few
+other things, read by a clerk; and I saw myself across in Blackwell's
+Island. Oh, I knew the game. I lost all interest in explanations. I didn't
+stop to pick up my precious, unread book. I turned and ran. I was pretty
+sick, but I ran. And run I shall, to my dying day, whenever a bull begins
+to explain with a club.</p>
+
+<p>Why, years after my tramping days, when I was a student in the University
+of California, one night I went to the circus. After the show and the
+concert I lingered on to watch the working of the transportation machinery
+of a great circus. The circus was leaving that night. By a bonfire I came
+upon a bunch of small boys. There were about twenty of them, and as they
+talked with one another I learned that they were going to run away with
+the circus. Now the circus-men didn't want to be bothered with this mess
+of urchins, and a telephone to police headquarters had &quot;coppered&quot; the
+play. A squad of ten policemen had been despatched to the scene to arrest
+the small boys for violating the nine o'clock curfew ordinance. The
+policemen surrounded the bonfire, and crept up close to it in the
+darkness. At the signal, they made a rush, each policeman grabbing at the
+youngsters as he would grab into a basket of squirming eels.</p>
+
+<p>Now I didn't know anything about the coming of the police; and when I saw
+the sudden eruption of brass-buttoned, helmeted bulls, each of them
+reaching with both hands, all the forces and stability of my being were
+overthrown. Remained only the automatic process to run. And I ran. I
+didn't know I was running. I didn't know anything. It was, as I have said,
+automatic. There was no reason for me to run. I was not a hobo. I was a
+citizen of that community. It was my home town. I was guilty of no
+wrong-doing. I was a college man. I had even got my name in the papers,
+and I wore good clothes that had never been slept in. And yet I
+ran&mdash;blindly, madly, like a startled deer, for over a block. And when I
+came to myself, I noted that I was still running. It required a positive
+effort of will to stop those legs of mine.</p>
+
+<p>No, I'll never get over it. I can't help it. When a bull reaches, I run.
+Besides, I have an unhappy faculty for getting into jail. I have been in
+jail more times since I was a hobo than when I was one. I start out on a
+Sunday morning with a young lady on a bicycle ride. Before we can get
+outside the city limits we are arrested for passing a pedestrian on the
+sidewalk. I resolve to be more careful. The next time I am on a bicycle
+it is night-time and my acetylene-gas-lamp is misbehaving. I cherish the
+sickly flame carefully, because of the ordinance. I am in a hurry, but I
+ride at a snail's pace so as not to jar out the flickering flame. I reach
+the city limits; I am beyond the jurisdiction of the ordinance; and I
+proceed to scorch to make up for lost time. And half a mile farther on I
+am &quot;pinched&quot; by a bull, and the next morning I forfeit my bail in the
+police court. The city had treacherously extended its limits into a mile
+of the country, and I didn't know, that was all. I remember my inalienable
+right of free speech and peaceable assemblage, and I get up on a soap-box
+to trot out the particular economic bees that buzz in my bonnet, and a
+bull takes me off that box and leads me to the city prison, and after that
+I get out on bail. It's no use. In Korea I used to be arrested about every
+other day. It was the same thing in Manchuria. The last time I was in
+Japan I broke into jail under the pretext of being a Russian spy. It
+wasn't my pretext, but it got me into jail just the same. There is no hope
+for me. I am fated to do the Prisoner-of-Chillon stunt yet. This is
+prophecy.</p>
+
+<p>I once hypnotized a bull on Boston Common. It was past midnight and he had
+me dead to rights; but before I got done with him he had ponied up a
+silver quarter and given me the address of an all-night restaurant. Then
+there was a bull in Bristol, New Jersey, who caught me and let me go, and
+heaven knows he had provocation enough to put me in jail. I hit him the
+hardest I'll wager he was ever hit in his life. It happened this way.
+About midnight I nailed a freight out of Philadelphia. The shacks ditched
+me. She was pulling out slowly through the maze of tracks and switches of
+the freight-yards. I nailed her again, and again I was ditched. You see, I
+had to nail her &quot;outside,&quot; for she was a through freight with every door
+locked and sealed.</p>
+
+<p>The second time I was ditched the shack gave me a lecture. He told me I
+was risking my life, that it was a fast freight and that she went some. I
+told him I was used to going some myself, but it was no go. He said he
+wouldn't permit me to commit suicide, and I hit the grit. But I nailed her
+a third time, getting in between on the bumpers. They were the most meagre
+bumpers I had ever seen&mdash;I do not refer to the real bumpers, the iron
+bumpers that are connected by the coupling-link and that pound and grind
+on each other; what I refer to are the beams, like huge cleats, that cross
+the ends of freight cars just above the bumpers. When one rides the
+bumpers, he stands on these cleats, one foot on each, the bumpers between
+his feet and just beneath.</p>
+
+<p>But the beams or cleats I found myself on were not the broad, generous
+ones that at that time were usually on box-cars. On the contrary, they
+were very narrow&mdash;not more than an inch and a half in breadth. I couldn't
+get half of the width of my sole on them. Then there was nothing to which
+to hold with my hands. True, there were the ends of the two box-cars; but
+those ends were flat, perpendicular surfaces. There were no grips. I could
+only press the flats of my palms against the car-ends for support. But
+that would have been all right if the cleats for my feet had been decently
+wide.</p>
+
+<p>As the freight got out of Philadelphia she began to hit up speed. Then I
+understood what the shack had meant by suicide. The freight went faster
+and faster. She was a through freight, and there was nothing to stop her.
+On that section of the Pennsylvania four tracks run side by side, and my
+east-bound freight didn't need to worry about passing west-bound freights,
+nor about being overtaken by east-bound expresses. She had the track to
+herself, and she used it. I was in a precarious situation. I stood with
+the mere edges of my feet on the narrow projections, the palms of my hands
+pressing desperately against the flat, perpendicular ends of each car. And
+those cars moved, and moved individually, up and down and back and forth.
+Did you ever see a circus rider, standing on two running horses, with one
+foot on the back of each horse? Well, that was what I was doing, with
+several differences. The circus rider had the reins to hold on to, while I
+had nothing; he stood on the broad soles of his feet, while I stood on the
+edges of mine; he bent his legs and body, gaining the strength of the arch
+in his posture and achieving the stability of a low centre of gravity,
+while I was compelled to stand upright and keep my legs straight; he rode
+face forward, while I was riding sidewise; and also, if he fell off, he'd
+get only a roll in the sawdust, while I'd have been ground to pieces
+beneath the wheels.</p>
+
+<p>And that freight was certainly going some, roaring and shrieking,
+swinging madly around curves, thundering over trestles, one car-end
+bumping up when the other was jarring down, or jerking to the right at the
+same moment the other was lurching to the left, and with me all the while
+praying and hoping for the train to stop. But she didn't stop. She didn't
+have to. For the first, last, and only time on The Road, I got all I
+wanted. I abandoned the bumpers and managed to get out on a side-ladder;
+it was ticklish work, for I had never encountered car-ends that were so
+parsimonious of hand-holds and foot-holds as those car-ends were.</p>
+
+<p>I heard the engine whistling, and I felt the speed easing down. I knew the
+train wasn't going to stop, but my mind was made up to chance it if she
+slowed down sufficiently. The right of way at this point took a curve,
+crossed a bridge over a canal, and cut through the town of Bristol. This
+combination compelled slow speed. I clung on to the side-ladder and
+waited. I didn't know it was the town of Bristol we were approaching. I
+did not know what necessitated slackening in speed. All I knew was that I
+wanted to get off. I strained my eyes in the darkness for a
+street-crossing on which to land. I was pretty well down the train, and
+before my car was in the town the engine was past the station and I could
+feel her making speed again.</p>
+
+<p>Then came the street. It was too dark to see how wide it was or what was
+on the other side. I knew I needed all of that street if I was to remain
+on my feet after I struck. I dropped off on the near side. It sounds easy.
+By &quot;dropped off&quot; I mean just this: I first of all, on the side-ladder,
+thrust my body forward as far as I could in the direction the train was
+going&mdash;this to give as much space as possible in which to gain backward
+momentum when I swung off. Then I swung, swung out and backward, backward
+with all my might, and let go&mdash;at the same time throwing myself backward
+as if I intended to strike the ground on the back of my head. The whole
+effort was to overcome as much as possible the primary forward momentum
+the train had imparted to my body. When my feet hit the grit, my body was
+lying backward on the air at an angle of forty-five degrees. I had reduced
+the forward momentum some, for when my feet struck, I did not immediately
+pitch forward on my face. Instead, my body rose to the perpendicular and
+began to incline forward. In point of fact, my body proper still retained
+much momentum, while my feet, through contact with the earth, had lost all
+their momentum. This momentum the feet had lost I had to supply anew by
+lifting them as rapidly as I could and running them forward in order to
+keep them under my forward-moving body. The result was that my feet beat a
+rapid and explosive tattoo clear across the street. I didn't dare stop
+them. If I had, I'd have pitched forward. It was up to me to keep on
+going.</p>
+
+<p>I was an involuntary projectile, worrying about what was on the other side
+of the street and hoping that it wouldn't be a stone wall or a telegraph
+pole. And just then I hit something. Horrors! I saw it just the instant
+before the disaster&mdash;of all things, a bull, standing there in the
+darkness. We went down together, rolling over and over; and the automatic
+process was such in that miserable creature that in the moment of impact
+he reached out and clutched me and never let go. We were both knocked out,
+and he held on to a very lamb-like hobo while he recovered.</p>
+
+<p>If that bull had any imagination, he must have thought me a traveller from
+other worlds, the man from Mars just arriving; for in the darkness he
+hadn't seen me swing from the train. In fact, his first words were: &quot;Where
+did you come from?&quot; His next words, and before I had time to answer, were:
+&quot;I've a good mind to run you in.&quot; This latter, I am convinced, was
+likewise automatic. He was a really good bull at heart, for after I had
+told him a &quot;story&quot; and helped brush off his clothes, he gave me until the
+next freight to get out of town. I stipulated two things: first, that the
+freight be east-bound, and second, that it should not be a through freight
+with all doors sealed and locked. To this he agreed, and thus, by the
+terms of the Treaty of Bristol, I escaped being pinched.</p>
+
+<p>I remember another night, in that part of the country, when I just missed
+another bull. If I had hit him, I'd have telescoped him, for I was coming
+down from above, all holds free, with several other bulls one jump behind
+and reaching for me. This is how it happened. I had been lodging in a
+livery stable in Washington. I had a box-stall and unnumbered
+horse-blankets all to myself. In return for such sumptuous accommodation I
+took care of a string of horses each morning. I might have been there yet,
+if it hadn't been for the bulls.</p>
+
+<p>One evening, about nine o'clock, I returned to the stable to go to bed,
+and found a crap game in full blast. It had been a market day, and all the
+negroes had money. It would be well to explain the lay of the land. The
+livery stable faced on two streets. I entered the front, passed through
+the office, and came to the alley between two rows of stalls that ran the
+length of the building and opened out on the other street. Midway along
+this alley, beneath a gas-jet and between the rows of horses, were about
+forty negroes. I joined them as an onlooker. I was broke and couldn't
+play. A coon was making passes and not dragging down. He was riding his
+luck, and with each pass the total stake doubled. All kinds of money lay
+on the floor. It was fascinating. With each pass, the chances increased
+tremendously against the coon making another pass. The excitement was
+intense. And just then there came a thundering smash on the big doors that
+opened on the back street.</p>
+
+<p>A few of the negroes bolted in the opposite direction. I paused from my
+flight a moment to grab at the all kinds of money on the floor. This
+wasn't theft: it was merely custom. Every man who hadn't run was grabbing.
+The doors crashed open and swung in, and through them surged a squad of
+bulls. We surged the other way. It was dark in the office, and the narrow
+door would not permit all of us to pass out to the street at the same
+time. Things became congested. A coon took a dive through the window,
+taking the sash along with him and followed by other coons. At our rear,
+the bulls were nailing prisoners. A big coon and myself made a dash at the
+door at the same time. He was bigger than I, and he pivoted me and got
+through first. The next instant a club swatted him on the head and he went
+down like a steer. Another squad of bulls was waiting outside for us. They
+knew they couldn't stop the rush with their hands, and so they were
+swinging their clubs. I stumbled over the fallen coon who had pivoted me,
+ducked a swat from a club, dived between a bull's legs, and was free. And
+then how I ran! There was a lean mulatto just in front of me, and I took
+his pace. He knew the town better than I did, and I knew that in the way
+he ran lay safety. But he, on the other hand, took me for a pursuing bull.
+He never looked around. He just ran. My wind was good, and I hung on to
+his pace and nearly killed him. In the end he stumbled weakly, went down
+on his knees, and surrendered to me. And when he discovered I wasn't a
+bull, all that saved me was that he didn't have any wind left in him.</p>
+
+<p>That was why I left Washington&mdash;not on account of the mulatto, but on
+account of the bulls. I went down to the depot and caught the first blind
+out on a Pennsylvania Railroad express. After the train got good and under
+way and I noted the speed she was making, a misgiving smote me. This was a
+four-track railroad, and the engines took water on the fly. Hoboes had
+long since warned me never to ride the first blind on trains where the
+engines took water on the fly. And now let me explain. Between the tracks
+are shallow metal troughs. As the engine, at full speed, passes above, a
+sort of chute drops down into the trough. The result is that all the water
+in the trough rushes up the chute and fills the tender.</p>
+
+<p>Somewhere along between Washington and Baltimore, as I sat on the platform
+of the blind, a fine spray began to fill the air. It did no harm. Ah, ha,
+thought I; it's all a bluff, this taking water on the fly being bad for
+the bo on the first blind. What does this little spray amount to? Then I
+began to marvel at the device. This was railroading! Talk about your
+primitive Western railroading&mdash;and just then the tender filled up, and it
+hadn't reached the end of the trough. A tidal wave of water poured over
+the back of the tender and down upon me. I was soaked to the skin, as wet
+as if I had fallen overboard.</p>
+
+<p>The train pulled into Baltimore. As is the custom in the great Eastern
+cities, the railroad ran beneath the level of the streets on the bottom of
+a big &quot;cut.&quot; As the train pulled into the lighted depot, I made myself as
+small as possible on the blind. But a railroad bull saw me, and gave
+chase. Two more joined him. I was past the depot, and I ran straight on
+down the track. I was in a sort of trap. On each side of me rose the steep
+walls of the cut, and if I ever essayed them and failed, I knew that I'd
+slide back into the clutches of the bulls. I ran on and on, studying the
+walls of the cut for a favorable place to climb up. At last I saw such a
+place. It came just after I had passed under a bridge that carried a level
+street across the cut. Up the steep slope I went, clawing hand and foot.
+The three railroad bulls were clawing up right after me.</p>
+
+<p>At the top, I found myself in a vacant lot. On one side was a low wall
+that separated it from the street. There was no time for minute
+investigation. They were at my heels. I headed for the wall and vaulted
+it. And right there was where I got the surprise of my life. One is used
+to thinking that one side of a wall is just as high as the other side. But
+that wall was different. You see, the vacant lot was much higher than the
+level of the street. On my side the wall was low, but on the other
+side&mdash;well, as I came soaring over the top, all holds free, it seemed to
+me that I was falling feet-first, plump into an abyss. There beneath me,
+on the sidewalk, under the light of a street-lamp was a bull. I guess it
+was nine or ten feet down to the sidewalk; but in the shock of surprise in
+mid-air it seemed twice that distance.</p>
+
+<p>I straightened out in the air and came down. At first I thought I was
+going to land on the bull. My clothes did brush him as my feet struck the
+sidewalk with explosive impact. It was a wonder he didn't drop dead, for
+he hadn't heard me coming. It was the man-from-Mars stunt over again. The
+bull did jump. He shied away from me like a horse from an auto; and then
+he reached for me. I didn't stop to explain. I left that to my pursuers,
+who were dropping over the wall rather gingerly. But I got a chase all
+right. I ran up one street and down another, dodged around corners, and at
+last got away.</p>
+
+<p>After spending some of the coin I'd got from the crap game and killing off
+an hour of time, I came back to the railroad cut, just outside the lights
+of the depot, and waited for a train. My blood had cooled down, and I
+shivered miserably, what of my wet clothes. At last a train pulled into
+the station. I lay low in the darkness, and successfully boarded her when
+she pulled out, taking good care this time to make the second blind. No
+more water on the fly in mine. The train ran forty miles to the first
+stop. I got off in a lighted depot that was strangely familiar. I was back
+in Washington. In some way, during the excitement of the get-away in
+Baltimore, running through strange streets, dodging and turning and
+retracing, I had got turned around. I had taken the train out the wrong
+way. I had lost a night's sleep, I had been soaked to the skin, I had been
+chased for my life; and for all my pains I was back where I had started.
+Oh, no, life on The Road is not all beer and skittles. But I didn't go
+back to the livery stable. I had done some pretty successful grabbing, and
+I didn't want to reckon up with the coons. So I caught the next train out,
+and ate my breakfast in Baltimore.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14658 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Road, by Jack London</title>
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+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Road, by Jack London</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: The Road</p>
+<p>Author: Jack London</p>
+<p>Release Date: January 10, 2005 [eBook #14658]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ROAD***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h3>E-text prepared by Suzanne Shell, Diane Monico,<br />
+ and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+ (www.pgdp.net)</h3>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h1>THE ROAD</h1>
+
+<h2>By Jack London</h2>
+
+<h4>1907</h4>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h6>(New York: Macmillan)</h6>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+<br /><br />
+<p class="center">TO</p>
+
+<p class="center">JOSIAH FLYNT</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>The Real Thing, Blowed in the Glass</i></p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h2><a name="Contents" id="Contents" />Contents</h2>
+
+<!-- Autogenerated TOC. Modify or delete as required. -->
+
+<h4> <a href="#Confession"><b>Confession</b></a></h4>
+<h4> <a href="#Holding_Her_Down"><b>Holding Her Down</b></a></h4>
+<h4> <a href="#Pictures"><b>Pictures</b></a></h4>
+<h4> <a href="#Pinchedquot"><b>&quot;Pinched&quot;</b></a></h4>
+<h4> <a href="#The_Pen"><b>The Pen</b></a></h4>
+<h4> <a href="#Hoboes_That_Pass_in_the_Night"><b>Hoboes That Pass in the Night</b></a></h4>
+<h4> <a href="#Road_Kids_and_Gay_Cats"><b>Road-Kids and Gay-Cats</b></a></h4>
+<h4> <a href="#Two_Thousand_Stiffs"><b>Two Thousand Stiffs</b></a></h4>
+<h4> <a href="#Bulls"><b>Bulls</b></a></h4>
+
+<!-- End Autogenerated TOC. -->
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<br />
+<br />
+
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span>&quot;Speakin' in general, I 'ave tried 'em all,<br /></span>
+<span>The 'appy roads that take you o'er the world.<br /></span>
+<span>Speakin' in general, I 'ave found them good<br /></span>
+<span>For such as cannot use one bed too long,<br /></span>
+<span>But must get 'ence, the same as I 'ave done,<br /></span>
+<span>An' go observin' matters till they die.&quot;<br /></span>
+<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash;<i>Sestina of the Tramp-Royal</i></p>
+</div></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Confession" id="Confession" /><i>Confession</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>There is a woman in the state of Nevada to whom I once lied continuously,
+consistently, and shamelessly, for the matter of a couple of hours. I
+don't want to apologize to her. Far be it from me. But I do want to
+explain. Unfortunately, I do not know her name, much less her present
+address. If her eyes should chance upon these lines, I hope she will write
+to me.</p>
+
+<p>It was in Reno, Nevada, in the summer of 1892. Also, it was fair-time, and
+the town was filled with petty crooks and tin-horns, to say nothing of a
+vast and hungry horde of hoboes. It was the hungry hoboes that made the
+town a &quot;hungry&quot; town. They &quot;battered&quot; the back doors of the homes of the
+citizens until the back doors became unresponsive.</p>
+
+<p>A hard town for &quot;scoffings,&quot; was what the hoboes called it at that time. I
+know that I missed many a meal, in spite of the fact that I could &quot;throw
+my feet&quot; with the next one when it came to &quot;slamming a gate&quot; for a
+&quot;poke-out&quot; or a &quot;set-down,&quot; or hitting for a &quot;light piece&quot; on the street.
+Why, I was so hard put in that town, one day, that I gave the porter the
+slip and invaded the private car of some itinerant millionnaire. The train
+started as I made the platform, and I headed for the aforesaid
+millionnaire with the porter one jump behind and reaching for me. It was a
+dead heat, for I reached the millionnaire at the same instant that the
+porter reached me. I had no time for formalities. &quot;Gimme a quarter to eat
+on,&quot; I blurted out. And as I live, that millionnaire dipped into his
+pocket and gave me ... just ... precisely ... a quarter. It is my
+conviction that he was so flabbergasted that he obeyed automatically, and
+it has been a matter of keen regret ever since, on my part, that I didn't
+ask him for a dollar. I know that I'd have got it. I swung off the
+platform of that private car with the porter manoeuvring to kick me in the
+face. He missed me. One is at a terrible disadvantage when trying to swing
+off the lowest step of a car and not break his neck on the right of way,
+with, at the same time, an irate Ethiopian on the platform above trying
+to land him in the face with a number eleven. But I got the quarter! I got
+it!</p>
+
+<p>But to return to the woman to whom I so shamelessly lied. It was in the
+evening of my last day in Reno. I had been out to the race-track watching
+the ponies run, and had missed my dinner (<i>i.e.</i> the mid-day meal). I was
+hungry, and, furthermore, a committee of public safety had just been
+organized to rid the town of just such hungry mortals as I. Already a lot
+of my brother hoboes had been gathered in by John Law, and I could hear
+the sunny valleys of California calling to me over the cold crests of the
+Sierras. Two acts remained for me to perform before I shook the dust of
+Reno from my feet. One was to catch the blind baggage on the westbound
+overland that night. The other was first to get something to eat. Even
+youth will hesitate at an all-night ride, on an empty stomach, outside a
+train that is tearing the atmosphere through the snow-sheds, tunnels, and
+eternal snows of heaven-aspiring mountains.</p>
+
+<p>But that something to eat was a hard proposition. I was &quot;turned down&quot; at a
+dozen houses. Sometimes I received insulting remarks and was informed of
+the barred domicile that should be mine if I had my just deserts. The
+worst of it was that such assertions were only too true. That was why I
+was pulling west that night. John Law was abroad in the town, seeking
+eagerly for the hungry and homeless, for by such was his barred domicile
+tenanted.</p>
+
+<p>At other houses the doors were slammed in my face, cutting short my
+politely and humbly couched request for something to eat. At one house
+they did not open the door. I stood on the porch and knocked, and they
+looked out at me through the window. They even held one sturdy little boy
+aloft so that he could see over the shoulders of his elders the tramp who
+wasn't going to get anything to eat at their house.</p>
+
+<p>It began to look as if I should be compelled to go to the very poor for my
+food. The very poor constitute the last sure recourse of the hungry tramp.
+The very poor can always be depended upon. They never turn away the
+hungry. Time and again, all over the United States, have I been refused
+food by the big house on the hill; and always have I received food from
+the little shack down by the creek or marsh, with its broken windows
+stuffed with rags and its tired-faced mother broken with labor. Oh, you
+charity-mongers! Go to the poor and learn, for the poor alone are the
+charitable. They neither give nor withhold from their excess. They have no
+excess. They give, and they withhold never, from what they need for
+themselves, and very often from what they cruelly need for themselves. A
+bone to the dog is not charity. Charity is the bone shared with the dog
+when you are just as hungry as the dog.</p>
+
+<p>There was one house in particular where I was turned down that evening.
+The porch windows opened on the dining room, and through them I saw a man
+eating pie&mdash;a big meat-pie. I stood in the open door, and while he talked
+with me, he went on eating. He was prosperous, and out of his prosperity
+had been bred resentment against his less fortunate brothers.</p>
+
+<p>He cut short my request for something to eat, snapping out, &quot;I don't
+believe you want to work.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Now this was irrelevant. I hadn't said anything about work. The topic of
+conversation I had introduced was &quot;food.&quot; In fact, I didn't want to work.
+I wanted to take the westbound overland that night.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You wouldn't work if you had a chance,&quot; he bullied.</p>
+
+<p>I glanced at his meek-faced wife, and knew that but for the presence of
+this Cerberus I'd have a whack at that meat-pie myself. But Cerberus
+sopped himself in the pie, and I saw that I must placate him if I were to
+get a share of it. So I sighed to myself and accepted his work-morality.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Of course I want work,&quot; I bluffed.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Don't believe it,&quot; he snorted.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Try me,&quot; I answered, warming to the bluff.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;All right,&quot; he said. &quot;Come to the corner of blank and blank streets&quot;&mdash;(I
+have forgotten the address)&mdash;&quot;to-morrow morning. You know where that
+burned building is, and I'll put you to work tossing bricks.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;All right, sir; I'll be there.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He grunted and went on eating. I waited. After a couple of minutes he
+looked up with an I-thought-you-were-gone expression on his face, and
+demanded:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Well?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I ... I am waiting for something to eat,&quot; I said gently.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I knew you wouldn't work!&quot; he roared.</p>
+
+<p>He was right, of course; but his conclusion must have been reached by
+mind-reading, for his logic wouldn't bear it out. But the beggar at the
+door must be humble, so I accepted his logic as I had accepted his
+morality.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You see, I am now hungry,&quot; I said still gently. &quot;To-morrow morning I
+shall be hungrier. Think how hungry I shall be when I have tossed bricks
+all day without anything to eat. Now if you will give me something to eat,
+I'll be in great shape for those bricks.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He gravely considered my plea, at the same time going on eating, while his
+wife nearly trembled into propitiatory speech, but refrained.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I'll tell you what I'll do,&quot; he said between mouthfuls. &quot;You come to work
+to-morrow, and in the middle of the day I'll advance you enough for your
+dinner. That will show whether you are in earnest or not.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;In the meantime&mdash;&quot; I began; but he interrupted.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;If I gave you something to eat now, I'd never see you again. Oh, I know
+your kind. Look at me. I owe no man. I have never descended so low as to
+ask any one for food. I have always earned my food. The trouble with you
+is that you are idle and dissolute. I can see it in your face. I have
+worked and been honest. I have made myself what I am. And you can do the
+same, if you work and are honest.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Like you?&quot; I queried.</p>
+
+<p>Alas, no ray of humor had ever penetrated the sombre work-sodden soul of
+that man.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Yes, like me,&quot; he answered.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;All of us?&quot; I queried.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Yes, all of you,&quot; he answered, conviction vibrating in his voice.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;But if we all became like you,&quot; I said, &quot;allow me to point out that
+there'd be nobody to toss bricks for you.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I swear there was a flicker of a smile in his wife's eye. As for him, he
+was aghast&mdash;but whether at the awful possibility of a reformed humanity
+that would not enable him to get anybody to toss bricks for him, or at my
+impudence, I shall never know.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I'll not waste words on you,&quot; he roared. &quot;Get out of here, you
+ungrateful whelp!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I scraped my feet to advertise my intention of going, and queried:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;And I don't get anything to eat?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He arose suddenly to his feet. He was a large man. I was a stranger in a
+strange land, and John Law was looking for me. I went away hurriedly. &quot;But
+why ungrateful?&quot; I asked myself as I slammed his gate. &quot;What in the
+dickens did he give me to be ungrateful about?&quot; I looked back. I could
+still see him through the window. He had returned to his pie.</p>
+
+<p>By this time I had lost heart. I passed many houses by without venturing
+up to them. All houses looked alike, and none looked &quot;good.&quot; After walking
+half a dozen blocks I shook off my despondency and gathered my &quot;nerve.&quot;
+This begging for food was all a game, and if I didn't like the cards, I
+could always call for a new deal. I made up my mind to tackle the next
+house. I approached it in the deepening twilight, going around to the
+kitchen door.</p>
+
+<p>I knocked softly, and when I saw the kind face of the middle-aged woman
+who answered, as by inspiration came to me the &quot;story&quot; I was to tell. For
+know that upon his ability to tell a good story depends the success of the
+beggar. First of all, and on the instant, the beggar must &quot;size up&quot; his
+victim. After that, he must tell a story that will appeal to the peculiar
+personality and temperament of that particular victim. And right here
+arises the great difficulty: in the instant that he is sizing up the
+victim he must begin his story. Not a minute is allowed for preparation.
+As in a lightning flash he must divine the nature of the victim and
+conceive a tale that will hit home. The successful hobo must be an artist.
+He must create spontaneously and instantaneously&mdash;and not upon a theme
+selected from the plenitude of his own imagination, but upon the theme he
+reads in the face of the person who opens the door, be it man, woman, or
+child, sweet or crabbed, generous or miserly, good-natured or
+cantankerous, Jew or Gentile, black or white, race-prejudiced or
+brotherly, provincial or universal, or whatever else it may be. I have
+often thought that to this training of my tramp days is due much of my
+success as a story-writer. In order to get the food whereby I lived, I
+was compelled to tell tales that rang true. At the back door, out of
+inexorable necessity, is developed the convincingness and sincerity laid
+down by all authorities on the art of the short-story. Also, I quite
+believe it was my tramp-apprenticeship that made a realist out of me.
+Realism constitutes the only goods one can exchange at the kitchen door
+for grub.</p>
+
+<p>After all, art is only consummate artfulness, and artfulness saves many a
+&quot;story.&quot; I remember lying in a police station at Winnipeg, Manitoba. I was
+bound west over the Canadian Pacific. Of course, the police wanted my
+story, and I gave it to them&mdash;on the spur of the moment. They were
+landlubbers, in the heart of the continent, and what better story for them
+than a sea story? They could never trip me up on that. And so I told a
+tearful tale of my life on the hell-ship <i>Glenmore</i>. (I had once seen the
+<i>Glenmore</i> lying at anchor in San Francisco Bay.)</p>
+
+<p>I was an English apprentice, I said. And they said that I didn't talk like
+an English boy. It was up to me to create on the instant. I had been born
+and reared in the United States. On the death of my parents, I had been
+sent to England to my grandparents. It was they who had apprenticed me on
+the <i>Glenmore</i>. I hope the captain of the <i>Glenmore</i> will forgive me, for
+I gave him a character that night in the Winnipeg police station. Such
+cruelty! Such brutality! Such diabolical ingenuity of torture! It
+explained why I had deserted the <i>Glenmore</i> at Montreal.</p>
+
+<p>But why was I in the middle of Canada going west, when my grandparents
+lived in England? Promptly I created a married sister who lived in
+California. She would take care of me. I developed at length her loving
+nature. But they were not done with me, those hard-hearted policemen. I
+had joined the <i>Glenmore</i> in England; in the two years that had elapsed
+before my desertion at Montreal, what had the <i>Glenmore</i> done and where
+had she been? And thereat I took those landlubbers around the world with
+me. Buffeted by pounding seas and stung with flying spray, they fought a
+typhoon with me off the coast of Japan. They loaded and unloaded cargo
+with me in all the ports of the Seven Seas. I took them to India, and
+Rangoon, and China, and had them hammer ice with me around the Horn and
+at last come to moorings at Montreal.</p>
+
+<p>And then they said to wait a moment, and one policeman went forth into the
+night while I warmed myself at the stove, all the while racking my brains
+for the trap they were going to spring on me.</p>
+
+<p>I groaned to myself when I saw him come in the door at the heels of the
+policeman. No gypsy prank had thrust those tiny hoops of gold through the
+ears; no prairie winds had beaten that skin into wrinkled leather; nor had
+snow-drift and mountain-slope put in his walk that reminiscent roll. And
+in those eyes, when they looked at me, I saw the unmistakable sun-wash of
+the sea. Here was a theme, alas! with half a dozen policemen to watch me
+read&mdash;I who had never sailed the China seas, nor been around the Horn, nor
+looked with my eyes upon India and Rangoon.</p>
+
+<p>I was desperate. Disaster stalked before me incarnate in the form of that
+gold-ear-ringed, weather-beaten son of the sea. Who was he? What was he? I
+must solve him ere he solved me. I must take a new orientation, or else
+those wicked policemen would orientate me to a cell, a police court, and
+more cells. If he questioned me first, before I knew how much he knew, I
+was lost.</p>
+
+<p>But did I betray my desperate plight to those lynx-eyed guardians of the
+public welfare of Winnipeg? Not I. I met that aged sailorman glad-eyed and
+beaming, with all the simulated relief at deliverance that a drowning man
+would display on finding a life-preserver in his last despairing clutch.
+Here was a man who understood and who would verify my true story to the
+faces of those sleuth-hounds who did not understand, or, at least, such
+was what I endeavored to play-act. I seized upon him; I volleyed him with
+questions about himself. Before my judges I would prove the character of
+my savior before he saved me.</p>
+
+<p>He was a kindly sailorman&mdash;an &quot;easy mark.&quot; The policemen grew impatient
+while I questioned him. At last one of them told me to shut up. I shut up;
+but while I remained shut up, I was busy creating, busy sketching the
+scenario of the next act. I had learned enough to go on with. He was a
+Frenchman. He had sailed always on French merchant vessels, with the one
+exception of a voyage on a &quot;lime-juicer.&quot; And last of all&mdash;blessed
+fact!&mdash;he had not been on the sea for twenty years.</p>
+
+<p>The policeman urged him on to examine me.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You called in at Rangoon?&quot; he queried.</p>
+
+<p>I nodded. &quot;We put our third mate ashore there. Fever.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>If he had asked me what kind of fever, I should have answered, &quot;Enteric,&quot;
+though for the life of me I didn't know what enteric was. But he didn't
+ask me. Instead, his next question was:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;And how is Rangoon?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;All right. It rained a whole lot when we were there.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Did you get shore-leave?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Sure,&quot; I answered. &quot;Three of us apprentices went ashore together.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Do you remember the temple?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Which temple?&quot; I parried.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The big one, at the top of the stairway.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>If I remembered that temple, I knew I'd have to describe it. The gulf
+yawned for me.</p>
+
+<p>I shook my head.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You can see it from all over the harbor,&quot; he informed me. &quot;You don't need
+shore-leave to see that temple.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I never loathed a temple so in my life. But I fixed that particular temple
+at Rangoon.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You can't see it from the harbor,&quot; I contradicted. &quot;You can't see it from
+the town. You can't see it from the top of the stairway. Because&mdash;&quot; I
+paused for the effect. &quot;Because there isn't any temple there.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;But I saw it with my own eyes!&quot; he cried.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;That was in&mdash;?&quot; I queried.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Seventy-one.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;It was destroyed in the great earthquake of 1887,&quot; I explained. &quot;It was
+very old.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>There was a pause. He was busy reconstructing in his old eyes the youthful
+vision of that fair temple by the sea.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The stairway is still there,&quot; I aided him. &quot;You can see it from all over
+the harbor. And you remember that little island on the right-hand side
+coming into the harbor?&quot; I guess there must have been one there (I was
+prepared to shift it over to the left-hand side), for he nodded. &quot;Gone,&quot;
+I said. &quot;Seven fathoms of water there now.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I had gained a moment for breath. While he pondered on time's changes, I
+prepared the finishing touches of my story.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You remember the custom-house at Bombay?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He remembered it.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Burned to the ground,&quot; I announced.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Do you remember Jim Wan?&quot; he came back at me.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Dead,&quot; I said; but who the devil Jim Wan was I hadn't the slightest idea.</p>
+
+<p>I was on thin ice again.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Do you remember Billy Harper, at Shanghai?&quot; I queried back at him
+quickly.</p>
+
+<p>That aged sailorman worked hard to recollect, but the Billy Harper of my
+imagination was beyond his faded memory.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Of course you remember Billy Harper,&quot; I insisted. &quot;Everybody knows him.
+He's been there forty years. Well, he's still there, that's all.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>And then the miracle happened. The sailorman remembered Billy Harper.
+Perhaps there was a Billy Harper, and perhaps he had been in Shanghai for
+forty years and was still there; but it was news to me.</p>
+
+<p>For fully half an hour longer, the sailorman and I talked on in similar
+fashion. In the end he told the policemen that I was what I represented
+myself to be, and after a night's lodging and a breakfast I was released
+to wander on westward to my married sister in San Francisco.</p>
+
+<p>But to return to the woman in Reno who opened her door to me in the
+deepening twilight. At the first glimpse of her kindly face I took my cue.
+I became a sweet, innocent, unfortunate lad. I couldn't speak. I opened my
+mouth and closed it again. Never in my life before had I asked any one for
+food. My embarrassment was painful, extreme. I was ashamed. I, who looked
+upon begging as a delightful whimsicality, thumbed myself over into a true
+son of Mrs. Grundy, burdened with all her bourgeois morality. Only the
+harsh pangs of the belly-need could compel me to do so degraded and
+ignoble a thing as beg for food. And into my face I strove to throw all
+the wan wistfulness of famished and ingenuous youth unused to mendicancy.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You are hungry, my poor boy,&quot; she said.</p>
+
+<p>I had made her speak first.</p>
+
+<p>I nodded my head and gulped.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;It is the first time I have ever ... asked,&quot; I faltered.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Come right in.&quot; The door swung open. &quot;We have already finished eating,
+but the fire is burning and I can get something up for you.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>She looked at me closely when she got me into the light.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I wish my boy were as healthy and strong as you,&quot; she said. &quot;But he is
+not strong. He sometimes falls down. He just fell down this afternoon and
+hurt himself badly, the poor dear.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>She mothered him with her voice, with an ineffable tenderness in it that I
+yearned to appropriate. I glanced at him. He sat across the table, slender
+and pale, his head swathed in bandages. He did not move, but his eyes,
+bright in the lamplight, were fixed upon me in a steady and wondering
+stare.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Just like my poor father,&quot; I said. &quot;He had the falling sickness. Some
+kind of vertigo. It puzzled the doctors. They never could make out what
+was the matter with him.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;He is dead?&quot; she queried gently, setting before me half a dozen
+soft-boiled eggs.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Dead,&quot; I gulped. &quot;Two weeks ago. I was with him when it happened. We were
+crossing the street together. He fell right down. He was never conscious
+again. They carried him into a drug-store. He died there.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>And thereat I developed the pitiful tale of my father&mdash;how, after my
+mother's death, he and I had gone to San Francisco from the ranch; how his
+pension (he was an old soldier), and the little other money he had, was
+not enough; and how he had tried book-canvassing. Also, I narrated my own
+woes during the few days after his death that I had spent alone and
+forlorn on the streets of San Francisco. While that good woman warmed up
+biscuits, fried bacon, and cooked more eggs, and while I kept pace with
+her in taking care of all that she placed before me, I enlarged the
+picture of that poor orphan boy and filled in the details. I became that
+poor boy. I believed in him as I believed in the beautiful eggs I was
+devouring. I could have wept for myself. I know the tears did get into my
+voice at times. It was very effective.</p>
+
+<p>In fact, with every touch I added to the picture, that kind soul gave me
+something also. She made up a lunch for me to carry away. She put in many
+boiled eggs, pepper and salt, and other things, and a big apple. She
+provided me with three pairs of thick red woollen socks. She gave me clean
+handkerchiefs and other things which I have since forgotten. And all the
+time she cooked more and more and I ate more and more. I gorged like a
+savage; but then it was a far cry across the Sierras on a blind baggage,
+and I knew not when nor where I should find my next meal. And all the
+while, like a death's-head at the feast, silent and motionless, her own
+unfortunate boy sat and stared at me across the table. I suppose I
+represented to him mystery, and romance, and adventure&mdash;all that was
+denied the feeble flicker of life that was in him. And yet I could not
+forbear, once or twice, from wondering if he saw through me down to the
+bottom of my mendacious heart.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;But where are you going to?&quot; she asked me.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Salt Lake City,&quot; said I. &quot;I have a sister there&mdash;a married sister.&quot; (I
+debated if I should make a Mormon out of her, and decided against it.)
+&quot;Her husband is a plumber&mdash;a contracting plumber.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Now I knew that contracting plumbers were usually credited with making
+lots of money. But I had spoken. It was up to me to qualify.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;They would have sent me the money for my fare if I had asked for it,&quot; I
+explained, &quot;but they have had sickness and business troubles. His partner
+cheated him. And so I wouldn't write for the money. I knew I could make my
+way there somehow. I let them think I had enough to get me to Salt Lake
+City. She is lovely, and so kind. She was always kind to me. I guess I'll
+go into the shop and learn the trade. She has two daughters. They are
+younger than I. One is only a baby.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Of all my married sisters that I have distributed among the cities of the
+United States, that Salt Lake sister is my favorite. She is quite real,
+too. When I tell about her, I can see her, and her two little girls, and
+her plumber husband. She is a large, motherly woman, just verging on
+beneficent stoutness&mdash;the kind, you know, that always cooks nice things
+and that never gets angry. She is a brunette. Her husband is a quiet,
+easy-going fellow. Sometimes I almost know him quite well. And who knows
+but some day I may meet him? If that aged sailorman could remember Billy
+Harper, I see no reason why I should not some day meet the husband of my
+sister who lives in Salt Lake City.</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, I have a feeling of certitude within me that I shall
+never meet in the flesh my many parents and grandparents&mdash;you see, I
+invariably killed them off. Heart disease was my favorite way of getting
+rid of my mother, though on occasion I did away with her by means of
+consumption, pneumonia, and typhoid fever. It is true, as the Winnipeg
+policemen will attest, that I have grandparents living in England; but
+that was a long time ago and it is a fair assumption that they are dead by
+now. At any rate, they have never written to me.</p>
+
+<p>I hope that woman in Reno will read these lines and forgive me my
+gracelessness and unveracity. I do not apologize, for I am unashamed. It
+was youth, delight in life, zest for experience, that brought me to her
+door. It did me good. It taught me the intrinsic kindliness of human
+nature. I hope it did her good. Anyway, she may get a good laugh out of it
+now that she learns the real inwardness of the situation.</p>
+
+<p>To her my story was &quot;true.&quot; She believed in me and all my family, and she
+was filled with solicitude for the dangerous journey I must make ere I won
+to Salt Lake City. This solicitude nearly brought me to grief. Just as I
+was leaving, my arms full of lunch and my pockets bulging with fat woollen
+socks, she bethought herself of a nephew, or uncle, or relative of some
+sort, who was in the railway mail service, and who, moreover, would come
+through that night on the very train on which I was going to steal my
+ride. The very thing! She would take me down to the depot, tell him my
+story, and get him to hide me in the mail car. Thus, without danger or
+hardship, I would be carried straight through to Ogden. Salt Lake City was
+only a few miles farther on. My heart sank. She grew excited as she
+developed the plan and with my sinking heart I had to feign unbounded
+gladness and enthusiasm at this solution of my difficulties.</p>
+
+<p>Solution! Why I was bound west that night, and here was I being trapped
+into going east. It <i>was</i> a trap, and I hadn't the heart to tell her that
+it was all a miserable lie. And while I made believe that I was delighted,
+I was busy cudgelling my brains for some way to escape. But there was no
+way. She would see me into the mail-car&mdash;she said so herself&mdash;and then
+that mail-clerk relative of hers would carry me to Ogden. And then I would
+have to beat my way back over all those hundreds of miles of desert.</p>
+
+<p>But luck was with me that night. Just about the time she was getting ready
+to put on her bonnet and accompany me, she discovered that she had made a
+mistake. Her mail-clerk relative was not scheduled to come through that
+night. His run had been changed. He would not come through until two
+nights afterward. I was saved, for of course my boundless youth would
+never permit me to wait those two days. I optimistically assured her that
+I'd get to Salt Lake City quicker if I started immediately, and I departed
+with her blessings and best wishes ringing in my ears.</p>
+
+<p>But those woollen socks were great. I know. I wore a pair of them that
+night on the blind baggage of the overland, and that overland went west.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Holding_Her_Down" id="Holding_Her_Down" /><i>Holding Her Down</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>Barring accidents, a good hobo, with youth and agility, can hold a train
+down despite all the efforts of the train-crew to &quot;ditch&quot; him&mdash;given, of
+course, night-time as an essential condition. When such a hobo, under such
+conditions, makes up his mind that he is going to hold her down, either he
+does hold her down, or chance trips him up. There is no legitimate way,
+short of murder, whereby the train-crew can ditch him. That train-crews
+have not stopped short of murder is a current belief in the tramp world.
+Not having had that particular experience in my tramp days I cannot vouch
+for it personally.</p>
+
+<p>But this I have heard of the &quot;bad&quot; roads. When a tramp has &quot;gone
+underneath,&quot; on the rods, and the train is in motion, there is apparently
+no way of dislodging him until the train stops. The tramp, snugly
+ensconced inside the truck, with the four wheels and all the framework
+around him, has the &quot;cinch&quot; on the crew&mdash;or so he thinks, until some day
+he rides the rods on a bad road. A bad road is usually one on which a
+short time previously one or several trainmen have been killed by tramps.
+Heaven pity the tramp who is caught &quot;underneath&quot; on such a road&mdash;for
+caught he is, though the train be going sixty miles an hour.</p>
+
+<p>The &quot;shack&quot; (brakeman) takes a coupling-pin and a length of bell-cord to
+the platform in front of the truck in which the tramp is riding. The shack
+fastens the coupling-pin to the bell-cord, drops the former down between
+the platforms, and pays out the latter. The coupling-pin strikes the ties
+between the rails, rebounds against the bottom of the car, and again
+strikes the ties. The shack plays it back and forth, now to this side, now
+to the other, lets it out a bit and hauls it in a bit, giving his weapon
+opportunity for every variety of impact and rebound. Every blow of that
+flying coupling-pin is freighted with death, and at sixty miles an hour it
+beats a veritable tattoo of death. The next day the remains of that tramp
+are gathered up along the right of way, and a line in the local paper
+mentions the unknown man, undoubtedly a tramp, assumably drunk, who had
+probably fallen asleep on the track.</p>
+
+<p>As a characteristic illustration of how a capable hobo can hold her down,
+I am minded to give the following experience. I was in Ottawa, bound west
+over the Canadian Pacific. Three thousand miles of that road stretched
+before me; it was the fall of the year, and I had to cross Manitoba and
+the Rocky Mountains. I could expect &quot;crimpy&quot; weather, and every moment of
+delay increased the frigid hardships of the journey. Furthermore, I was
+disgusted. The distance between Montreal and Ottawa is one hundred and
+twenty miles. I ought to know, for I had just come over it and it had
+taken me six days. By mistake I had missed the main line and come over a
+small &quot;jerk&quot; with only two locals a day on it. And during these six days I
+had lived on dry crusts, and not enough of them, begged from the French
+peasants.</p>
+
+<p>Furthermore, my disgust had been heightened by the one day I had spent in
+Ottawa trying to get an outfit of clothing for my long journey. Let me put
+it on record right here that Ottawa, with one exception, is the hardest
+town in the United States and Canada to beg clothes in; the one exception
+is Washington, D.C. The latter fair city is the limit. I spent two weeks
+there trying to beg a pair of shoes, and then had to go on to Jersey City
+before I got them.</p>
+
+<p>But to return to Ottawa. At eight sharp in the morning I started out after
+clothes. I worked energetically all day. I swear I walked forty miles. I
+interviewed the housewives of a thousand homes. I did not even knock off
+work for dinner. And at six in the afternoon, after ten hours of
+unremitting and depressing toil, I was still shy one shirt, while the pair
+of trousers I had managed to acquire was tight and, moreover, was showing
+all the signs of an early disintegration.</p>
+
+<p>At six I quit work and headed for the railroad yards, expecting to pick up
+something to eat on the way. But my hard luck was still with me. I was
+refused food at house after house. Then I got a &quot;hand-out.&quot; My spirits
+soared, for it was the largest hand-out I had ever seen in a long and
+varied experience. It was a parcel wrapped in newspapers and as big as a
+mature suit-case. I hurried to a vacant lot and opened it. First, I saw
+cake, then more cake, all kinds and makes of cake, and then some. It was
+all cake. No bread and butter with thick firm slices of meat
+between&mdash;nothing but cake; and I who of all things abhorred cake most! In
+another age and clime they sat down by the waters of Babylon and wept. And
+in a vacant lot in Canada's proud capital, I, too, sat down and wept ...
+over a mountain of cake. As one looks upon the face of his dead son, so
+looked I upon that multitudinous pastry. I suppose I was an ungrateful
+tramp, for I refused to partake of the bounteousness of the house that had
+had a party the night before. Evidently the guests hadn't liked cake
+either.</p>
+
+<p>That cake marked the crisis in my fortunes. Than it nothing could be
+worse; therefore things must begin to mend. And they did. At the very next
+house I was given a &quot;set-down.&quot; Now a &quot;set-down&quot; is the height of bliss.
+One is taken inside, very often is given a chance to wash, and is then
+&quot;set-down&quot; at a table. Tramps love to throw their legs under a table. The
+house was large and comfortable, in the midst of spacious grounds and fine
+trees, and sat well back from the street. They had just finished eating,
+and I was taken right into the dining room&mdash;in itself a most unusual
+happening, for the tramp who is lucky enough to win a set-down usually
+receives it in the kitchen. A grizzled and gracious Englishman, his
+matronly wife, and a beautiful young Frenchwoman talked with me while I
+ate.</p>
+
+<p>I wonder if that beautiful young Frenchwoman would remember, at this late
+day, the laugh I gave her when I uttered the barbaric phrase, &quot;two-bits.&quot;
+You see, I was trying delicately to hit them for a &quot;light piece.&quot; That was
+how the sum of money came to be mentioned. &quot;What?&quot; she said. &quot;Two-bits,&quot;
+said I. Her mouth was twitching as she again said, &quot;What?&quot; &quot;Two-bits,&quot;
+said I. Whereat she burst into laughter. &quot;Won't you repeat it?&quot; she said,
+when she had regained control of herself. &quot;Two-bits,&quot; said I. And once
+more she rippled into uncontrollable silvery laughter. &quot;I beg your
+pardon,&quot; said she; &quot;but what ... what was it you said?&quot; &quot;Two-bits,&quot; said
+I; &quot;is there anything wrong about it?&quot; &quot;Not that I know of,&quot; she gurgled
+between gasps; &quot;but what does it mean?&quot; I explained, but I do not remember
+now whether or not I got that two-bits out of her; but I have often
+wondered since as to which of us was the provincial.</p>
+
+<p>When I arrived at the depot, I found, much to my disgust, a bunch of at
+least twenty tramps that were waiting to ride out the blind baggages of
+the overland. Now two or three tramps on the blind baggage are all right.
+They are inconspicuous. But a score! That meant trouble. No train-crew
+would ever let all of us ride.</p>
+
+<p>I may as well explain here what a blind baggage is. Some mail-cars are
+built without doors in the ends; hence, such a car is &quot;blind.&quot; The
+mail-cars that possess end doors, have those doors always locked. Suppose,
+after the train has started, that a tramp gets on to the platform of one
+of these blind cars. There is no door, or the door is locked. No conductor
+or brakeman can get to him to collect fare or throw him off. It is clear
+that the tramp is safe until the next time the train stops. Then he must
+get off, run ahead in the darkness, and when the train pulls by, jump on
+to the blind again. But there are ways and ways, as you shall see.</p>
+
+<p>When the train pulled out, those twenty tramps swarmed upon the three
+blinds. Some climbed on before the train had run a car-length. They were
+awkward dubs, and I saw their speedy finish. Of course, the train-crew was
+&quot;on,&quot; and at the first stop the trouble began. I jumped off and ran
+forward along the track. I noticed that I was accompanied by a number of
+the tramps. They evidently knew their business. When one is beating an
+overland, he must always keep well ahead of the train at the stops. I ran
+ahead, and as I ran, one by one those that accompanied me dropped out.
+This dropping out was the measure of their skill and nerve in boarding a
+train.</p>
+
+<p>For this is the way it works. When the train starts, the shack rides out
+the blind. There is no way for him to get back into the train proper
+except by jumping off the blind and catching a platform where the car-ends
+are not &quot;blind.&quot; When the train is going as fast as the shack cares to
+risk, he therefore jumps off the blind, lets several cars go by, and gets
+on to the train. So it is up to the tramp to run so far ahead that before
+the blind is opposite him the shack will have already vacated it.</p>
+
+<p>I dropped the last tramp by about fifty feet, and waited. The train
+started. I saw the lantern of the shack on the first blind. He was riding
+her out. And I saw the dubs stand forlornly by the track as the blind went
+by. They made no attempt to get on. They were beaten by their own
+inefficiency at the very start. After them, in the line-up, came the
+tramps that knew a little something about the game. They let the first
+blind, occupied by the shack, go by, and jumped on the second and third
+blinds. Of course, the shack jumped off the first and on to the second as
+it went by, and scrambled around there, throwing off the men who had
+boarded it. But the point is that I was so far ahead that when the first
+blind came opposite me, the shack had already left it and was tangled up
+with the tramps on the second blind. A half dozen of the more skilful
+tramps, who had run far enough ahead, made the first blind, too.</p>
+
+<p>At the next stop, as we ran forward along the track, I counted but fifteen
+of us. Five had been ditched. The weeding-out process had begun nobly, and
+it continued station by station. Now we were fourteen, now twelve, now
+eleven, now nine, now eight. It reminded me of the ten little niggers of
+the nursery rhyme. I was resolved that I should be the last little nigger
+of all. And why not? Was I not blessed with strength, agility, and youth?
+(I was eighteen, and in perfect condition.) And didn't I have my &quot;nerve&quot;
+with me? And furthermore, was I not a tramp-royal? Were not these other
+tramps mere dubs and &quot;gay-cats&quot; and amateurs alongside of me? If I weren't
+the last little nigger, I might as well quit the game and get a job on an
+alfalfa farm somewhere.</p>
+
+<p>By the time our number had been reduced to four, the whole train-crew had
+become interested. From then on it was a contest of skill and wits, with
+the odds in favor of the crew. One by one the three other survivors turned
+up missing, until I alone remained. My, but I was proud of myself! No
+Croesus was ever prouder of his first million. I was holding her down in
+spite of two brakemen, a conductor, a fireman, and an engineer.</p>
+
+<p>And here are a few samples of the way I held her down. Out ahead, in the
+darkness,&mdash;so far ahead that the shack riding out the blind must perforce
+get off before it reaches me,&mdash;I get on. Very well. I am good for another
+station. When that station is reached, I dart ahead again to repeat the
+manoeuvre. The train pulls out. I watch her coming. There is no light of a
+lantern on the blind. Has the crew abandoned the fight? I do not know. One
+never knows, and one must be prepared every moment for anything. As the
+first blind comes opposite me, and I run to leap aboard, I strain my eyes
+to see if the shack is on the platform. For all I know he may be there,
+with his lantern doused, and even as I spring upon the steps that lantern
+may smash down upon my head. I ought to know. I have been hit by lanterns
+two or three times.</p>
+
+<p>But no, the first blind is empty. The train is gathering speed. I am safe
+for another station. But am I? I feel the train slacken speed. On the
+instant I am alert. A manoeuvre is being executed against me, and I do not
+know what it is. I try to watch on both sides at once, not forgetting to
+keep track of the tender in front of me. From any one, or all, of these
+three directions, I may be assailed.</p>
+
+<p>Ah, there it comes. The shack has ridden out the engine. My first warning
+is when his feet strike the steps of the right-hand side of the blind.
+Like a flash I am off the blind to the left and running ahead past the
+engine. I lose myself in the darkness. The situation is where it has been
+ever since the train left Ottawa. I am ahead, and the train must come past
+me if it is to proceed on its journey. I have as good a chance as ever for
+boarding her.</p>
+
+<p>I watch carefully. I see a lantern come forward to the engine, and I do
+not see it go back from the engine. It must therefore be still on the
+engine, and it is a fair assumption that attached to the handle of that
+lantern is a shack. That shack was lazy, or else he would have put out his
+lantern instead of trying to shield it as he came forward. The train pulls
+out. The first blind is empty, and I gain it. As before the train
+slackens, the shack from the engine boards the blind from one side, and I
+go off the other side and run forward.</p>
+
+<p>As I wait in the darkness I am conscious of a big thrill of pride. The
+overland has stopped twice for me&mdash;for me, a poor hobo on the bum. I alone
+have twice stopped the overland with its many passengers and coaches, its
+government mail, and its two thousand steam horses straining in the
+engine. And I weigh only one hundred and sixty pounds, and I haven't a
+five-cent piece in my pocket!</p>
+
+<p>Again I see the lantern come forward to the engine. But this time it comes
+conspicuously. A bit too conspicuously to suit me, and I wonder what is
+up. At any rate I have something else to be afraid of than the shack on
+the engine. The train pulls by. Just in time, before I make my spring, I
+see the dark form of a shack, without a lantern, on the first blind. I let
+it go by, and prepare to board the second blind. But the shack on the
+first blind has jumped off and is at my heels. Also, I have a fleeting
+glimpse of the lantern of the shack who rode out the engine. He has jumped
+off, and now both shacks are on the ground on the same side with me. The
+next moment the second blind comes by and I am aboard it. But I do not
+linger. I have figured out my countermove. As I dash across the platform I
+hear the impact of the shack's feet against the steps as he boards. I jump
+off the other side and run forward with the train. My plan is to run
+forward and get on the first blind. It is nip and tuck, for the train is
+gathering speed. Also, the shack is behind me and running after me. I
+guess I am the better sprinter, for I make the first blind. I stand on the
+steps and watch my pursuer. He is only about ten feet back and running
+hard; but now the train has approximated his own speed, and, relative to
+me, he is standing still. I encourage him, hold out my hand to him; but he
+explodes in a mighty oath, gives up and makes the train several cars back.</p>
+
+<p>The train is speeding along, and I am still chuckling to myself, when,
+without warning, a spray of water strikes me. The fireman is playing the
+hose on me from the engine. I step forward from the car-platform to the
+rear of the tender, where I am sheltered under the overhang. The water
+flies harmlessly over my head. My fingers itch to climb up on the tender
+and lam that fireman with a chunk of coal; but I know if I do that, I'll
+be massacred by him and the engineer, and I refrain.</p>
+
+<p>At the next stop I am off and ahead in the darkness. This time, when the
+train pulls out, both shacks are on the first blind. I divine their game.
+They have blocked the repetition of my previous play. I cannot again take
+the second blind, cross over, and run forward to the first. As soon as
+the first blind passes and I do not get on, they swing off, one on each
+side of the train. I board the second blind, and as I do so I know that a
+moment later, simultaneously, those two shacks will arrive on both sides
+of me. It is like a trap. Both ways are blocked. Yet there is another way
+out, and that way is up.</p>
+
+<p>So I do not wait for my pursuers to arrive. I climb upon the upright
+ironwork of the platform and stand upon the wheel of the hand-brake. This
+has taken up the moment of grace and I hear the shacks strike the steps on
+either side. I don't stop to look. I raise my arms overhead until my hands
+rest against the down-curving ends of the roofs of the two cars. One hand,
+of course, is on the curved roof of one car, the other hand on the curved
+roof of the other car. By this time both shacks are coming up the steps. I
+know it, though I am too busy to see them. All this is happening in the
+space of only several seconds. I make a spring with my legs and &quot;muscle&quot;
+myself up with my arms. As I draw up my legs, both shacks reach for me and
+clutch empty air. I know this, for I look down and see them. Also I hear
+them swear.</p>
+
+<p>I am now in a precarious position, riding the ends of the down-curving
+roofs of two cars at the same time. With a quick, tense movement, I
+transfer both legs to the curve of one roof and both hands to the curve of
+the other roof. Then, gripping the edge of that curving roof, I climb over
+the curve to the level roof above, where I sit down to catch my breath,
+holding on the while to a ventilator that projects above the surface. I am
+on top of the train&mdash;on the &quot;decks,&quot; as the tramps call it, and this
+process I have described is by them called &quot;decking her.&quot; And let me say
+right here that only a young and vigorous tramp is able to deck a
+passenger train, and also, that the young and vigorous tramp must have his
+nerve with him as well.</p>
+
+<p>The train goes on gathering speed, and I know I am safe until the next
+stop&mdash;but only until the next stop. If I remain on the roof after the
+train stops, I know those shacks will fusillade me with rocks. A healthy
+shack can &quot;dewdrop&quot; a pretty heavy chunk of stone on top of a car&mdash;say
+anywhere from five to twenty pounds. On the other hand, the chances are
+large that at the next stop the shacks will be waiting for me to descend
+at the place I climbed up. It is up to me to climb down at some other
+platform.</p>
+
+<p>Registering a fervent hope that there are no tunnels in the next half
+mile, I rise to my feet and walk down the train half a dozen cars. And let
+me say that one must leave timidity behind him on such a <i>passear</i>. The
+roofs of passenger coaches are not made for midnight promenades. And if
+any one thinks they are, let me advise him to try it. Just let him walk
+along the roof of a jolting, lurching car, with nothing to hold on to but
+the black and empty air, and when he comes to the down-curving end of the
+roof, all wet and slippery with dew, let him accelerate his speed so as to
+step across to the next roof, down-curving and wet and slippery. Believe
+me, he will learn whether his heart is weak or his head is giddy.</p>
+
+<p>As the train slows down for a stop, half a dozen platforms from where I
+had decked her I come down. No one is on the platform. When the train
+comes to a standstill, I slip off to the ground. Ahead, and between me and
+the engine, are two moving lanterns. The shacks are looking for me on the
+roofs of the cars. I note that the car beside which I am standing is a
+&quot;four-wheeler&quot;&mdash;by which is meant that it has only four wheels to each
+truck. (When you go underneath on the rods, be sure to avoid the
+&quot;six-wheelers,&quot;&mdash;they lead to disasters.)</p>
+
+<p>I duck under the train and make for the rods, and I can tell you I am
+mighty glad that the train is standing still. It is the first time I have
+ever gone underneath on the Canadian Pacific, and the internal
+arrangements are new to me. I try to crawl over the top of the truck,
+between the truck and the bottom of the car. But the space is not large
+enough for me to squeeze through. This is new to me. Down in the United
+States I am accustomed to going underneath on rapidly moving trains,
+seizing a gunnel and swinging my feet under to the brake-beam, and from
+there crawling over the top of the truck and down inside the truck to a
+seat on the cross-rod.</p>
+
+<p>Feeling with my hands in the darkness, I learn that there is room between
+the brake-beam and the ground. It is a tight squeeze. I have to lie flat
+and worm my way through. Once inside the truck, I take my seat on the rod
+and wonder what the shacks are thinking has become of me. The train gets
+under way. They have given me up at last.</p>
+
+<p>But have they? At the very next stop, I see a lantern thrust under the
+next truck to mine at the other end of the car. They are searching the
+rods for me. I must make my get-away pretty lively. I crawl on my stomach
+under the brake-beam. They see me and run for me, but I crawl on hands and
+knees across the rail on the opposite side and gain my feet. Then away I
+go for the head of the train. I run past the engine and hide in the
+sheltering darkness. It is the same old situation. I am ahead of the
+train, and the train must go past me.</p>
+
+<p>The train pulls out. There is a lantern on the first blind. I lie low, and
+see the peering shack go by. But there is also a lantern on the second
+blind. That shack spots me and calls to the shack who has gone past on the
+first blind. Both jump off. Never mind, I'll take the third blind and deck
+her. But heavens, there is a lantern on the third blind, too. It is the
+conductor. I let it go by. At any rate I have now the full train-crew in
+front of me. I turn and run back in the opposite direction to what the
+train is going. I look over my shoulder. All three lanterns are on the
+ground and wobbling along in pursuit. I sprint. Half the train has gone
+by, and it is going quite fast, when I spring aboard. I know that the two
+shacks and the conductor will arrive like ravening wolves in about two
+seconds. I spring upon the wheel of the hand-brake, get my hands on the
+curved ends of the roofs, and muscle myself up to the decks; while my
+disappointed pursuers, clustering on the platform beneath like dogs that
+have treed a cat, howl curses up at me and say unsocial things about my
+ancestors.</p>
+
+<p>But what does that matter? It is five to one, including the engineer and
+fireman, and the majesty of the law and the might of a great corporation
+are behind them, and I am beating them out. I am too far down the train,
+and I run ahead over the roofs of the coaches until I am over the fifth or
+sixth platform from the engine. I peer down cautiously. A shack is on that
+platform. That he has caught sight of me, I know from the way he makes a
+swift sneak inside the car; and I know, also, that he is waiting inside
+the door, all ready to pounce out on me when I climb down. But I make
+believe that I don't know, and I remain there to encourage him in his
+error. I do not see him, yet I know that he opens the door once and peeps
+up to assure himself that I am still there.</p>
+
+<p>The train slows down for a station. I dangle my legs down in a tentative
+way. The train stops. My legs are still dangling. I hear the door unlatch
+softly. He is all ready for me. Suddenly I spring up and run forward over
+the roof. This is right over his head, where he lurks inside the door. The
+train is standing still; the night is quiet, and I take care to make
+plenty of noise on the metal roof with my feet. I don't know, but my
+assumption is that he is now running forward to catch me as I descend at
+the next platform. But I don't descend there. Halfway along the roof of
+the coach, I turn, retrace my way softly and quickly to the platform both
+the shack and I have just abandoned. The coast is clear. I descend to the
+ground on the off-side of the train and hide in the darkness. Not a soul
+has seen me.</p>
+
+<p>I go over to the fence, at the edge of the right of way, and watch. Ah,
+ha! What's that? I see a lantern on top of the train, moving along from
+front to rear. They think I haven't come down, and they are searching the
+roofs for me. And better than that&mdash;on the ground on each side of the
+train, moving abreast with the lantern on top, are two other lanterns. It
+is a rabbit-drive, and I am the rabbit. When the shack on top flushes me,
+the ones on each side will nab me. I roll a cigarette and watch the
+procession go by. Once past me, I am safe to proceed to the front of the
+train. She pulls out, and I make the front blind without opposition. But
+before she is fully under way and just as I am lighting my cigarette, I am
+aware that the fireman has climbed over the coal to the back of the tender
+and is looking down at me. I am filled with apprehension. From his
+position he can mash me to a jelly with lumps of coal. Instead of which he
+addresses me, and I note with relief the admiration in his voice.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You son-of-a-gun,&quot; is what he says.</p>
+
+<p>It is a high compliment, and I thrill as a schoolboy thrills on receiving
+a reward of merit.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Say,&quot; I call up to him, &quot;don't you play the hose on me any more.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;All right,&quot; he answers, and goes back to his work.</p>
+
+<p>I have made friends with the engine, but the shacks are still looking for
+me. At the next stop, the shacks ride out all three blinds, and as before,
+I let them go by and deck in the middle of the train. The crew is on its
+mettle by now, and the train stops. The shacks are going to ditch me or
+know the reason why. Three times the mighty overland stops for me at that
+station, and each time I elude the shacks and make the decks. But it is
+hopeless, for they have finally come to an understanding of the situation.
+I have taught them that they cannot guard the train from me. They must do
+something else.</p>
+
+<p>And they do it. When the train stops that last time, they take after me
+hot-footed. Ah, I see their game. They are trying to run me down. At first
+they herd me back toward the rear of the train. I know my peril. Once to
+the rear of the train, it will pull out with me left behind. I double, and
+twist, and turn, dodge through my pursuers, and gain the front of the
+train. One shack still hangs on after me. All right, I'll give him the run
+of his life, for my wind is good. I run straight ahead along the track. It
+doesn't matter. If he chases me ten miles, he'll nevertheless have to
+catch the train, and I can board her at any speed that he can.</p>
+
+<p>So I run on, keeping just comfortably ahead of him and straining my eyes
+in the gloom for cattle-guards and switches that may bring me to grief.
+Alas! I strain my eyes too far ahead, and trip over something just under
+my feet, I know not what, some little thing, and go down to earth in a
+long, stumbling fall. The next moment I am on my feet, but the shack has
+me by the collar. I do not struggle. I am busy with breathing deeply and
+with sizing him up. He is narrow-shouldered, and I have at least thirty
+pounds the better of him in weight. Besides, he is just as tired as I am,
+and if he tries to slug me, I'll teach him a few things.</p>
+
+<p>But he doesn't try to slug me, and that problem is settled. Instead, he
+starts to lead me back toward the train, and another possible problem
+arises. I see the lanterns of the conductor and the other shack. We are
+approaching them. Not for nothing have I made the acquaintance of the New
+York police. Not for nothing, in box-cars, by water-tanks, and in
+prison-cells, have I listened to bloody tales of man-handling. What if
+these three men are about to man-handle me? Heaven knows I have given them
+provocation enough. I think quickly. We are drawing nearer and nearer to
+the other two trainmen. I line up the stomach and the jaw of my captor,
+and plan the right and left I'll give him at the first sign of trouble.</p>
+
+<p>Pshaw! I know another trick I'd like to work on him, and I almost regret
+that I did not do it at the moment I was captured. I could make him sick,
+what of his clutch on my collar. His fingers, tight-gripping, are buried
+inside my collar. My coat is tightly buttoned. Did you ever see a
+tourniquet? Well, this is one. All I have to do is to duck my head under
+his arm and begin to twist. I must twist rapidly&mdash;very rapidly. I know how
+to do it; twisting in a violent, jerky way, ducking my head under his arm
+with each revolution. Before he knows it, those detaining fingers of his
+will be detained. He will be unable to withdraw them. It is a powerful
+leverage. Twenty seconds after I have started revolving, the blood will be
+bursting out of his finger-ends, the delicate tendons will be rupturing,
+and all the muscles and nerves will be mashing and crushing together in a
+shrieking mass. Try it sometime when somebody has you by the collar. But
+be quick&mdash;quick as lightning. Also, be sure to hug yourself while you are
+revolving&mdash;hug your face with your left arm and your abdomen with your
+right. You see, the other fellow might try to stop you with a punch from
+his free arm. It would be a good idea, too, to revolve away from that free
+arm rather than toward it. A punch going is never so bad as a punch
+coming.</p>
+
+<p>That shack will never know how near he was to being made very, very sick.
+All that saves him is that it is not in their plan to man-handle me. When
+we draw near enough, he calls out that he has me, and they signal the
+train to come on. The engine passes us, and the three blinds. After that,
+the conductor and the other shack swing aboard. But still my captor holds
+on to me. I see the plan. He is going to hold me until the rear of the
+train goes by. Then he will hop on, and I shall be left behind&mdash;ditched.</p>
+
+<p>But the train has pulled out fast, the engineer trying to make up for lost
+time. Also, it is a long train. It is going very lively, and I know the
+shack is measuring its speed with apprehension.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Think you can make it?&quot; I query innocently.</p>
+
+<p>He releases my collar, makes a quick run, and swings aboard. A number of
+coaches are yet to pass by. He knows it, and remains on the steps, his
+head poked out and watching me. In that moment my next move comes to me.
+I'll make the last platform. I know she's going fast and faster, but I'll
+only get a roll in the dirt if I fail, and the optimism of youth is mine.
+I do not give myself away. I stand with a dejected droop of shoulder,
+advertising that I have abandoned hope. But at the same time I am feeling
+with my feet the good gravel. It is perfect footing. Also I am watching
+the poked-out head of the shack. I see it withdrawn. He is confident that
+the train is going too fast for me ever to make it.</p>
+
+<p>And the train <i>is</i> going fast&mdash;faster than any train I have ever tackled.
+As the last coach comes by I sprint in the same direction with it. It is a
+swift, short sprint. I cannot hope to equal the speed of the train, but I
+can reduce the difference of our speed to the minimum, and, hence, reduce
+the shock of impact, when I leap on board. In the fleeting instant of
+darkness I do not see the iron hand-rail of the last platform; nor is
+there time for me to locate it. I reach for where I think it ought to be,
+and at the same instant my feet leave the ground. It is all in the toss.
+The next moment I may be rolling in the gravel with broken ribs, or arms,
+or head. But my fingers grip the hand-hold, there is a jerk on my arms
+that slightly pivots my body, and my feet land on the steps with sharp
+violence.</p>
+
+<p>I sit down, feeling very proud of myself. In all my hoboing it is the best
+bit of train-jumping I have done. I know that late at night one is always
+good for several stations on the last platform, but I do not care to trust
+myself at the rear of the train. At the first stop I run forward on the
+off-side of the train, pass the Pullmans, and duck under and take a rod
+under a day-coach. At the next stop I run forward again and take another
+rod.</p>
+
+<p>I am now comparatively safe. The shacks think I am ditched. But the long
+day and the strenuous night are beginning to tell on me. Also, it is not
+so windy nor cold underneath, and I begin to doze. This will never do.
+Sleep on the rods spells death, so I crawl out at a station and go forward
+to the second blind. Here I can lie down and sleep; and here I do
+sleep&mdash;how long I do not know&mdash;for I am awakened by a lantern thrust into
+my face. The two shacks are staring at me. I scramble up on the defensive,
+wondering as to which one is going to make the first &quot;pass&quot; at me. But
+slugging is far from their minds.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I thought you was ditched,&quot; says the shack who had held me by the collar.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;If you hadn't let go of me when you did, you'd have been ditched along
+with me,&quot; I answer.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;How's that?&quot; he asks.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I'd have gone into a clinch with you, that's all,&quot; is my reply.</p>
+
+<p>They hold a consultation, and their verdict is summed up in:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Well, I guess you can ride, Bo. There's no use trying to keep you off.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>And they go away and leave me in peace to the end of their division.</p>
+
+<p>I have given the foregoing as a sample of what &quot;holding her down&quot; means.
+Of course, I have selected a fortunate night out of my experiences, and
+said nothing of the nights&mdash;and many of them&mdash;when I was tripped up by
+accident and ditched.</p>
+
+<p>In conclusion, I want to tell of what happened when I reached the end of
+the division. On single-track, transcontinental lines, the freight trains
+wait at the divisions and follow out after the passenger trains. When the
+division was reached, I left my train, and looked for the freight that
+would pull out behind it. I found the freight, made up on a side-track and
+waiting. I climbed into a box-car half full of coal and lay down. In no
+time I was asleep.</p>
+
+<p>I was awakened by the sliding open of the door. Day was just dawning, cold
+and gray, and the freight had not yet started. A &quot;con&quot; (conductor) was
+poking his head inside the door.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Get out of that, you blankety-blank-blank!&quot; he roared at me.</p>
+
+<p>I got, and outside I watched him go down the line inspecting every car in
+the train. When he got out of sight I thought to myself that he would
+never think I'd have the nerve to climb back into the very car out of
+which he had fired me. So back I climbed and lay down again.</p>
+
+<p>Now that con's mental processes must have been paralleling mine, for he
+reasoned that it was the very thing I would do. For back he came and fired
+me out.</p>
+
+<p>Now, surely, I reasoned, he will never dream that I'd do it a third time.
+Back I went, into the very same car. But I decided to make sure. Only one
+side-door could be opened. The other side-door was nailed up. Beginning at
+the top of the coal, I dug a hole alongside of that door and lay down in
+it. I heard the other door open. The con climbed up and looked in over the
+top of the coal. He couldn't see me. He called to me to get out. I tried
+to fool him by remaining quiet. But when he began tossing chunks of coal
+into the hole on top of me, I gave up and for the third time was fired
+out. Also, he informed me in warm terms of what would happen to me if he
+caught me in there again.</p>
+
+<p>I changed my tactics. When a man is paralleling your mental processes,
+ditch him. Abruptly break off your line of reasoning, and go off on a new
+line. This I did. I hid between some cars on an adjacent side-track, and
+watched. Sure enough, that con came back again to the car. He opened the
+door, he climbed up, he called, he threw coal into the hole I had made. He
+even crawled over the coal and looked into the hole. That satisfied him.
+Five minutes later the freight was pulling out, and he was not in sight. I
+ran alongside the car, pulled the door open, and climbed in. He never
+looked for me again, and I rode that coal-car precisely one thousand and
+twenty-two miles, sleeping most of the time and getting out at divisions
+(where the freights always stop for an hour or so) to beg my food. And at
+the end of the thousand and twenty-two miles I lost that car through a
+happy incident. I got a &quot;set-down,&quot; and the tramp doesn't live who won't
+miss a train for a set-down any time.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Pictures" id="Pictures" /><i>Pictures</i></h2>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span>&quot;What do it matter where or 'ow we die,<br /></span>
+<span>So long as we've our 'ealth to watch it all?&quot;<br /></span>
+<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash;<i>Sestina of the Tramp-Royal</i></p>
+</div></div>
+
+
+<p>Perhaps the greatest charm of tramp-life is the absence of monotony. In
+Hobo Land the face of life is protean&mdash;an ever changing phantasmagoria,
+where the impossible happens and the unexpected jumps out of the bushes at
+every turn of the road. The hobo never knows what is going to happen the
+next moment; hence, he lives only in the present moment. He has learned
+the futility of telic endeavor, and knows the delight of drifting along
+with the whimsicalities of Chance.</p>
+
+<p>Often I think over my tramp days, and ever I marvel at the swift
+succession of pictures that flash up in my memory. It matters not where I
+begin to think; any day of all the days is a day apart, with a record of
+swift-moving pictures all its own. For instance, I remember a sunny summer
+morning in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, and immediately comes to my mind the
+auspicious beginning of the day&mdash;a &quot;set-down&quot; with two maiden ladies, and
+not in their kitchen, but in their dining room, with them beside me at the
+table. We ate eggs, out of egg-cups! It was the first time I had ever seen
+egg-cups, or heard of egg-cups! I was a bit awkward at first, I'll
+confess; but I was hungry and unabashed. I mastered the egg-cup, and I
+mastered the eggs in a way that made those two maiden ladies sit up.</p>
+
+<p>Why, they ate like a couple of canaries, dabbling with the one egg each
+they took, and nibbling at tiny wafers of toast. Life was low in their
+bodies; their blood ran thin; and they had slept warm all night. I had
+been out all night, consuming much fuel of my body to keep warm, beating
+my way down from a place called Emporium, in the northern part of the
+state. Wafers of toast! Out of sight! But each wafer was no more than a
+mouthful to me&mdash;nay, no more than a bite. It is tedious to have to reach
+for another piece of toast each bite when one is potential with many
+bites.</p>
+
+<p>When I was a very little lad, I had a very little dog called Punch. I saw
+to his feeding myself. Some one in the household had shot a lot of ducks,
+and we had a fine meat dinner. When I had finished, I prepared Punch's
+dinner&mdash;a large plateful of bones and tidbits. I went outside to give it
+to him. Now it happened that a visitor had ridden over from a neighboring
+ranch, and with him had come a Newfoundland dog as big as a calf. I set
+the plate on the ground. Punch wagged his tail and began. He had before
+him a blissful half-hour at least. There was a sudden rush. Punch was
+brushed aside like a straw in the path of a cyclone, and that Newfoundland
+swooped down upon the plate. In spite of his huge maw he must have been
+trained to quick lunches, for, in the fleeting instant before he received
+the kick in the ribs I aimed at him, he completely engulfed the contents
+of the plate. He swept it clean. One last lingering lick of his tongue
+removed even the grease stains.</p>
+
+<p>As that big Newfoundland behaved at the plate of my dog Punch, so behaved
+I at the table of those two maiden ladies of Harrisburg. I swept it bare.
+I didn't break anything, but I cleaned out the eggs and the toast and the
+coffee. The servant brought more, but I kept her busy, and ever she
+brought more and more. The coffee was delicious, but it needn't have been
+served in such tiny cups. What time had I to eat when it took all my time
+to prepare the many cups of coffee for drinking?</p>
+
+<p>At any rate, it gave my tongue time to wag. Those two maiden ladies, with
+their pink-and-white complexions and gray curls, had never looked upon the
+bright face of adventure. As the &quot;Tramp-Royal&quot; would have it, they had
+worked all their lives &quot;on one same shift.&quot; Into the sweet scents and
+narrow confines of their uneventful existence I brought the large airs of
+the world, freighted with the lusty smells of sweat and strife, and with
+the tangs and odors of strange lands and soils. And right well I scratched
+their soft palms with the callous on my own palms&mdash;the half-inch horn that
+comes of pull-and-haul of rope and long and arduous hours of caressing
+shovel-handles. This I did, not merely in the braggadocio of youth, but to
+prove, by toil performed, the claim I had upon their charity.</p>
+
+<p>Ah, I can see them now, those dear, sweet ladies, just as I sat at their
+breakfast table twelve years ago, discoursing upon the way of my feet in
+the world, brushing aside their kindly counsel as a real devilish fellow
+should, and thrilling them, not alone with my own adventures, but with the
+adventures of all the other fellows with whom I had rubbed shoulders and
+exchanged confidences. I appropriated them all, the adventures of the
+other fellows, I mean; and if those maiden ladies had been less trustful
+and guileless, they could have tangled me up beautifully in my chronology.
+Well, well, and what of it? It was fair exchange. For their many cups of
+coffee, and eggs, and bites of toast, I gave full value. Right royally I
+gave them entertainment. My coming to sit at their table was their
+adventure, and adventure is beyond price anyway.</p>
+
+<p>Coming along the street, after parting from the maiden ladies, I gathered
+in a newspaper from the doorway of some late-riser, and in a grassy park
+lay down to get in touch with the last twenty-four hours of the world.
+There, in the park, I met a fellow-hobo who told me his life-story and who
+wrestled with me to join the United States Army. He had given in to the
+recruiting officer and was just about to join, and he couldn't see why I
+shouldn't join with him. He had been a member of Coxey's Army in the march
+to Washington several months before, and that seemed to have given him a
+taste for army life. I, too, was a veteran, for had I not been a private
+in Company L of the Second Division of Kelly's Industrial Army?&mdash;said
+Company L being commonly known as the &quot;Nevada push.&quot; But my army
+experience had had the opposite effect on me; so I left that hobo to go
+his way to the dogs of war, while I &quot;threw my feet&quot; for dinner.</p>
+
+<p>This duty performed, I started to walk across the bridge over the
+Susquehanna to the west shore. I forget the name of the railroad that ran
+down that side, but while lying in the grass in the morning the idea had
+come to me to go to Baltimore; so to Baltimore I was going on that
+railroad, whatever its name was. It was a warm afternoon, and part way
+across the bridge I came to a lot of fellows who were in swimming off one
+of the piers. Off went my clothes and in went I. The water was fine; but
+when I came out and dressed, I found I had been robbed. Some one had gone
+through my clothes. Now I leave it to you if being robbed isn't in itself
+adventure enough for one day. I have known men who have been robbed and
+who have talked all the rest of their lives about it. True, the thief that
+went through my clothes didn't get much&mdash;some thirty or forty cents in
+nickels and pennies, and my tobacco and cigarette papers; but it was all I
+had, which is more than most men can be robbed of, for they have something
+left at home, while I had no home. It was a pretty tough gang in swimming
+there. I sized up, and knew better than to squeal. So I begged &quot;the
+makings,&quot; and I could have sworn it was one of my own papers I rolled the
+tobacco in.</p>
+
+<p>Then on across the bridge I hiked to the west shore. Here ran the railroad
+I was after. No station was in sight. How to catch a freight without
+walking to a station was the problem. I noticed that the track came up a
+steep grade, culminating at the point where I had tapped it, and I knew
+that a heavy freight couldn't pull up there any too lively. But how
+lively? On the opposite side of the track rose a high bank. On the edge,
+at the top, I saw a man's head sticking up from the grass. Perhaps he knew
+how fast the freights took the grade, and when the next one went south. I
+called out my questions to him, and he motioned to me to come up.</p>
+
+<p>I obeyed, and when I reached the top, I found four other men lying in the
+grass with him. I took in the scene and knew them for what they
+were&mdash;American gypsies. In the open space that extended back among the
+trees from the edge of the bank were several nondescript wagons. Ragged,
+half-naked children swarmed over the camp, though I noticed that they took
+care not to come near and bother the men-folk. Several lean, unbeautiful,
+and toil-degraded women were pottering about with camp-chores, and one I
+noticed who sat by herself on the seat of one of the wagons, her head
+drooped forward, her knees drawn up to her chin and clasped limply by her
+arms. She did not look happy. She looked as if she did not care for
+anything&mdash;in this I was wrong, for later I was to learn that there was
+something for which she did care. The full measure of human suffering was
+in her face, and, in addition, there was the tragic expression of
+incapacity for further suffering. Nothing could hurt any more, was what
+her face seemed to portray; but in this, too, I was wrong.</p>
+
+<p>I lay in the grass on the edge of the steep and talked with the men-folk.
+We were kin&mdash;brothers. I was the American hobo, and they were the American
+gypsy. I knew enough of their argot for conversation, and they knew enough
+of mine. There were two more in their gang, who were across the river
+&quot;mushing&quot; in Harrisburg. A &quot;musher&quot; is an itinerant fakir. This word is
+not to be confounded with the Klondike &quot;musher,&quot; though the origin of both
+terms may be the same; namely, the corruption of the French <i>marche ons</i>,
+to march, to walk, to &quot;mush.&quot; The particular graft of the two mushers who
+had crossed the river was umbrella-mending; but what real graft lay behind
+their umbrella-mending, I was not told, nor would it have been polite to
+ask.</p>
+
+<p>It was a glorious day. Not a breath of wind was stirring, and we basked in
+the shimmering warmth of the sun. From everywhere arose the drowsy hum of
+insects, and the balmy air was filled with scents of the sweet earth and
+the green growing things. We were too lazy to do more than mumble on in
+intermittent conversation. And then, all abruptly, the peace and quietude
+was jarred awry by man.</p>
+
+<p>Two bare-legged boys of eight or nine in some minor way broke some rule of
+the camp&mdash;what it was I did not know; and a man who lay beside me suddenly
+sat up and called to them. He was chief of the tribe, a man with narrow
+forehead and narrow-slitted eyes, whose thin lips and twisted sardonic
+features explained why the two boys jumped and tensed like startled deer
+at the sound of his voice. The alertness of fear was in their faces, and
+they turned, in a panic, to run. He called to them to come back, and one
+boy lagged behind reluctantly, his meagre little frame portraying in
+pantomime the struggle within him between fear and reason. He wanted to
+come back. His intelligence and past experience told him that to come back
+was a lesser evil than to run on; but lesser evil that it was, it was
+great enough to put wings to his fear and urge his feet to flight.</p>
+
+<p>Still he lagged and struggled until he reached the shelter of the trees,
+where he halted. The chief of the tribe did not pursue. He sauntered over
+to a wagon and picked up a heavy whip. Then he came back to the centre of
+the open space and stood still. He did not speak. He made no gestures. He
+was the Law, pitiless and omnipotent. He merely stood there and waited.
+And I knew, and all knew, and the two boys in the shelter of the trees
+knew, for what he waited.</p>
+
+<p>The boy who had lagged slowly came back. His face was stamped with
+quivering resolution. He did not falter. He had made up his mind to take
+his punishment. And mark you, the punishment was not for the original
+offence, but for the offence of running away. And in this, that tribal
+chieftain but behaved as behaves the exalted society in which he lived. We
+punish our criminals, and when they escape and run away, we bring them
+back and add to their punishment.</p>
+
+<p>Straight up to the chief the boy came, halting at the proper distance for
+the swing of the lash. The whip hissed through the air, and I caught
+myself with a start of surprise at the weight of the blow. The thin little
+leg was so very thin and little. The flesh showed white where the lash had
+curled and bitten, and then, where the white had shown, sprang up the
+savage welt, with here and there along its length little scarlet oozings
+where the skin had broken. Again the whip swung, and the boy's whole body
+winced in anticipation of the blow, though he did not move from the spot.
+His will held good. A second welt sprang up, and a third. It was not until
+the fourth landed that the boy screamed. Also, he could no longer stand
+still, and from then on, blow after blow, he danced up and down in his
+anguish, screaming; but he did not attempt to run away. If his involuntary
+dancing took him beyond the reach of the whip, he danced back into range
+again. And when it was all over&mdash;a dozen blows&mdash;he went away, whimpering
+and squealing, among the wagons.</p>
+
+<p>The chief stood still and waited. The second boy came out from the trees.
+But he did not come straight. He came like a cringing dog, obsessed by
+little panics that made him turn and dart away for half a dozen steps. But
+always he turned and came back, circling nearer and nearer to the man,
+whimpering, making inarticulate animal-noises in his throat. I saw that he
+never looked at the man. His eyes always were fixed upon the whip, and in
+his eyes was a terror that made me sick&mdash;the frantic terror of an
+inconceivably maltreated child. I have seen strong men dropping right and
+left out of battle and squirming in their death-throes, I have seen them
+by scores blown into the air by bursting shells and their bodies torn
+asunder; believe me, the witnessing was as merrymaking and laughter and
+song to me in comparison with the way the sight of that poor child
+affected me.</p>
+
+<p>The whipping began. The whipping of the first boy was as play compared
+with this one. In no time the blood was running down his thin little legs.
+He danced and squirmed and doubled up till it seemed almost that he was
+some grotesque marionette operated by strings. I say &quot;seemed,&quot; for his
+screaming gave the lie to the seeming and stamped it with reality. His
+shrieks were shrill and piercing; within them no hoarse notes, but only
+the thin sexlessness of the voice of a child. The time came when the boy
+could stand it no more. Reason fled, and he tried to run away. But now the
+man followed up, curbing his flight, herding him with blows back always
+into the open space.</p>
+
+<p>Then came interruption. I heard a wild smothered cry. The woman who sat in
+the wagon seat had got out and was running to interfere. She sprang
+between the man and boy.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You want some, eh?&quot; said he with the whip. &quot;All right, then.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He swung the whip upon her. Her skirts were long, so he did not try for
+her legs. He drove the lash for her face, which she shielded as best she
+could with her hands and forearms, drooping her head forward between her
+lean shoulders, and on the lean shoulders and arms receiving the blows.
+Heroic mother! She knew just what she was doing. The boy, still shrieking,
+was making his get-away to the wagons.</p>
+
+<p>And all the while the four men lay beside me and watched and made no move.
+Nor did I move, and without shame I say it; though my reason was compelled
+to struggle hard against my natural impulse to rise up and interfere. I
+knew life. Of what use to the woman, or to me, would be my being beaten to
+death by five men there on the bank of the Susquehanna? I once saw a man
+hanged, and though my whole soul cried protest, my mouth cried not. Had it
+cried, I should most likely have had my skull crushed by the butt of a
+revolver, for it was the law that the man should hang. And here, in this
+gypsy group, it was the law that the woman should be whipped.</p>
+
+<p>Even so, the reason in both cases that I did not interfere was not that it
+was the law, but that the law was stronger than I. Had it not been for
+those four men beside me in the grass, right gladly would I have waded
+into the man with the whip. And, barring the accident of the landing on me
+with a knife or a club in the hands of some of the various women of the
+camp, I am confident that I should have beaten him into a mess. But the
+four men <i>were</i> beside me in the grass. They made their law stronger than
+I.</p>
+
+<p>Oh, believe me, I did my own suffering. I had seen women beaten before,
+often, but never had I seen such a beating as this. Her dress across the
+shoulders was cut into shreds. One blow that had passed her guard, had
+raised a bloody welt from cheek to chin. Not one blow, nor two, not one
+dozen, nor two dozen, but endlessly, infinitely, that whip-lash smote and
+curled about her. The sweat poured from me, and I breathed hard, clutching
+at the grass with my hands until I strained it out by the roots. And all
+the time my reason kept whispering, &quot;Fool! Fool!&quot; That welt on the face
+nearly did for me. I started to rise to my feet; but the hand of the man
+next to me went out to my shoulder and pressed me down.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Easy, pardner, easy,&quot; he warned me in a low voice. I looked at him. His
+eyes met mine unwaveringly. He was a large man, broad-shouldered and
+heavy-muscled; and his face was lazy, phlegmatic, slothful, withal kindly,
+yet without passion, and quite soulless&mdash;a dim soul, unmalicious, unmoral,
+bovine, and stubborn. Just an animal he was, with no more than a faint
+flickering of intelligence, a good-natured brute with the strength and
+mental caliber of a gorilla. His hand pressed heavily upon me, and I knew
+the weight of the muscles behind. I looked at the other brutes, two of
+them unperturbed and incurious, and one of them that gloated over the
+spectacle; and my reason came back to me, my muscles relaxed, and I sank
+down in the grass.</p>
+
+<p>My mind went back to the two maiden ladies with whom I had had breakfast
+that morning. Less than two miles, as the crow flies, separated them from
+this scene. Here, in the windless day, under a beneficent sun, was a
+sister of theirs being beaten by a brother of mine. Here was a page of
+life they could never see&mdash;and better so, though for lack of seeing they
+would never be able to understand their sisterhood, nor themselves, nor
+know the clay of which they were made. For it is not given to woman to
+live in sweet-scented, narrow rooms and at the same time be a little
+sister to all the world.</p>
+
+<p>The whipping was finished, and the woman, no longer screaming, went back
+to her seat in the wagon. Nor did the other women come to her&mdash;just then.
+They were afraid. But they came afterward, when a decent interval had
+elapsed. The man put the whip away and rejoined us, flinging himself down
+on the other side of me. He was breathing hard from his exertions. He
+wiped the sweat from his eyes on his coat-sleeve, and looked challengingly
+at me. I returned his look carelessly; what he had done was no concern of
+mine. I did not go away abruptly. I lay there half an hour longer, which,
+under the circumstances, was tact and etiquette. I rolled cigarettes from
+tobacco I borrowed from them, and when I slipped down the bank to the
+railroad, I was equipped with the necessary information for catching the
+next freight bound south.</p>
+
+<p>Well, and what of it? It was a page out of life, that's all; and there are
+many pages worse, far worse, that I have seen. I have sometimes held forth
+(facetiously, so my listeners believed) that the chief distinguishing
+trait between man and the other animals is that man is the only animal
+that maltreats the females of his kind. It is something of which no wolf
+nor cowardly coyote is ever guilty. It is something that even the dog,
+degenerated by domestication, will not do. The dog still retains the wild
+instinct in this matter, while man has lost most of his wild instincts&mdash;at
+least, most of the good ones.</p>
+
+<p>Worse pages of life than what I have described? Read the reports on child
+labor in the United States,&mdash;east, west, north, and south, it doesn't
+matter where,&mdash;and know that all of us, profit-mongers that we are, are
+typesetters and printers of worse pages of life than that mere page of
+wife-beating on the Susquehanna.</p>
+
+<p>I went down the grade a hundred yards to where the footing beside the
+track was good. Here I could catch my freight as it pulled slowly up the
+hill, and here I found half a dozen hoboes waiting for the same purpose.
+Several were playing seven-up with an old pack of cards. I took a hand. A
+coon began to shuffle the deck. He was fat, and young, and moon-faced. He
+beamed with good-nature. It fairly oozed from him. As he dealt the first
+card to me, he paused and said:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Say, Bo, ain't I done seen you befo'?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You sure have,&quot; I answered. &quot;An' you didn't have those same duds on,
+either.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He was puzzled.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;D'ye remember Buffalo?&quot; I queried.</p>
+
+<p>Then he knew me, and with laughter and ejaculation hailed me as a comrade;
+for at Buffalo his clothes had been striped while he did his bit of time
+in the Erie County Penitentiary. For that matter, my clothes had been
+likewise striped, for I had been doing my bit of time, too.</p>
+
+<p>The game proceeded, and I learned the stake for which we played. Down the
+bank toward the river descended a steep and narrow path that led to a
+spring some twenty-five feet beneath. We played on the edge of the bank.
+The man who was &quot;stuck&quot; had to take a small condensed-milk can, and with
+it carry water to the winners.</p>
+
+<p>The first game was played and the coon was stuck. He took the small
+milk-tin and climbed down the bank, while we sat above and guyed him. We
+drank like fish. Four round trips he had to make for me alone, and the
+others were equally lavish with their thirst. The path was very steep, and
+sometimes the coon slipped when part way up, spilled the water, and had to
+go back for more. But he didn't get angry. He laughed as heartily as any
+of us; that was why he slipped so often. Also, he assured us of the
+prodigious quantities of water he would drink when some one else got
+stuck.</p>
+
+<p>When our thirst was quenched, another game was started. Again the coon was
+stuck, and again we drank our fill. A third game and a fourth ended the
+same way, and each time that moon-faced darky nearly died with delight at
+appreciation of the fate that Chance was dealing out to him. And we nearly
+died with him, what of our delight. We laughed like careless children, or
+gods, there on the edge of the bank. I know that I laughed till it seemed
+the top of my head would come off, and I drank from the milk-tin till I
+was nigh waterlogged. Serious discussion arose as to whether we could
+successfully board the freight when it pulled up the grade, what of the
+weight of water secreted on our persons. This particular phase of the
+situation just about finished the coon. He had to break off from
+water-carrying for at least five minutes while he lay down and rolled with
+laughter.</p>
+
+<p>The lengthening shadows stretched farther and farther across the river,
+and the soft, cool twilight came on, and ever we drank water, and ever our
+ebony cup-bearer brought more and more. Forgotten was the beaten woman of
+the hour before. That was a page read and turned over; I was busy now with
+this new page, and when the engine whistled on the grade, this page would
+be finished and another begun; and so the book of life goes on, page after
+page and pages without end&mdash;when one is young.</p>
+
+<p>And then we played a game in which the coon failed to be stuck. The victim
+was a lean and dyspeptic-looking hobo, the one who had laughed least of
+all of us. We said we didn't want any water&mdash;which was the truth. Not the
+wealth of Ormuz and of Ind, nor the pressure of a pneumatic ram, could
+have forced another drop into my saturated carcass. The coon looked
+disappointed, then rose to the occasion and guessed he'd have some. He
+meant it, too. He had some, and then some, and then some. Ever the
+melancholy hobo climbed down and up the steep bank, and ever the coon
+called for more. He drank more water than all the rest of us put together.
+The twilight deepened into night, the stars came out, and he still drank
+on. I do believe that if the whistle of the freight hadn't sounded, he'd
+be there yet, swilling water and revenge while the melancholy hobo toiled
+down and up.</p>
+
+<p>But the whistle sounded. The page was done. We sprang to our feet and
+strung out alongside the track. There she came, coughing and spluttering
+up the grade, the headlight turning night into day and silhouetting us in
+sharp relief. The engine passed us, and we were all running with the
+train, some boarding on the side-ladders, others &quot;springing&quot; the
+side-doors of empty box-cars and climbing in. I caught a flat-car loaded
+with mixed lumber and crawled away into a comfortable nook. I lay on my
+back with a newspaper under my head for a pillow. Above me the stars were
+winking and wheeling in squadrons back and forth as the train rounded the
+curves, and watching them I fell asleep. The day was done&mdash;one day of all
+my days. To-morrow would be another day, and I was young.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Pinchedquot" id="Pinchedquot" /><i>&quot;Pinched&quot;</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>I rode into Niagara Falls in a &quot;side-door Pullman,&quot; or, in common
+parlance, a box-car. A flat-car, by the way, is known amongst the
+fraternity as a &quot;gondola,&quot; with the second syllable emphasized and
+pronounced long. But to return. I arrived in the afternoon and headed
+straight from the freight train to the falls. Once my eyes were filled
+with that wonder-vision of down-rushing water, I was lost. I could not
+tear myself away long enough to &quot;batter&quot; the &quot;privates&quot; (domiciles) for my
+supper. Even a &quot;set-down&quot; could not have lured me away. Night came on, a
+beautiful night of moonlight, and I lingered by the falls until after
+eleven. Then it was up to me to hunt for a place to &quot;kip.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Kip,&quot; &quot;doss,&quot; &quot;flop,&quot; &quot;pound your ear,&quot; all mean the same thing; namely,
+to sleep. Somehow, I had a &quot;hunch&quot; that Niagara Falls was a &quot;bad&quot; town for
+hoboes, and I headed out into the country. I climbed a fence and &quot;flopped&quot;
+in a field. John Law would never find me there, I flattered myself. I lay
+on my back in the grass and slept like a babe. It was so balmy warm that I
+woke up not once all night. But with the first gray daylight my eyes
+opened, and I remembered the wonderful falls. I climbed the fence and
+started down the road to have another look at them. It was early&mdash;not more
+than five o'clock&mdash;and not until eight o'clock could I begin to batter for
+my breakfast. I could spend at least three hours by the river. Alas! I was
+fated never to see the river nor the falls again.</p>
+
+<p>The town was asleep when I entered it. As I came along the quiet street, I
+saw three men coming toward me along the sidewalk. They were walking
+abreast. Hoboes, I decided, like myself, who had got up early. In this
+surmise I was not quite correct. I was only sixty-six and two-thirds per
+cent correct. The men on each side were hoboes all right, but the man in
+the middle wasn't. I directed my steps to the edge of the sidewalk in
+order to let the trio go by. But it didn't go by. At some word from the
+man in the centre, all three halted, and he of the centre addressed me.</p>
+
+<p>I piped the lay on the instant. He was a &quot;fly-cop&quot; and the two hoboes
+were his prisoners. John Law was up and out after the early worm. I was a
+worm. Had I been richer by the experiences that were to befall me in the
+next several months, I should have turned and run like the very devil. He
+might have shot at me, but he'd have had to hit me to get me. He'd have
+never run after me, for two hoboes in the hand are worth more than one on
+the get-away. But like a dummy I stood still when he halted me. Our
+conversation was brief.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;What hotel are you stopping at?&quot; he queried.</p>
+
+<p>He had me. I wasn't stopping at any hotel, and, since I did not know the
+name of a hotel in the place, I could not claim residence in any of them.
+Also, I was up too early in the morning. Everything was against me.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I just arrived,&quot; I said.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Well, you turn around and walk in front of me, and not too far in front.
+There's somebody wants to see you.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I was &quot;pinched.&quot; I knew who wanted to see me. With that &quot;fly-cop&quot; and the
+two hoboes at my heels, and under the direction of the former, I led the
+way to the city jail. There we were searched and our names registered. I
+have forgotten, now, under which name I was registered. I gave the name of
+Jack Drake, but when they searched me, they found letters addressed to
+Jack London. This caused trouble and required explanation, all of which
+has passed from my mind, and to this day I do not know whether I was
+pinched as Jack Drake or Jack London. But one or the other, it should be
+there to-day in the prison register of Niagara Falls. Reference can bring
+it to light. The time was somewhere in the latter part of June, 1894. It
+was only a few days after my arrest that the great railroad strike began.</p>
+
+<p>From the office we were led to the &quot;Hobo&quot; and locked in. The &quot;Hobo&quot; is
+that part of a prison where the minor offenders are confined together in a
+large iron cage. Since hoboes constitute the principal division of the
+minor offenders, the aforesaid iron cage is called the Hobo. Here we met
+several hoboes who had already been pinched that morning, and every little
+while the door was unlocked and two or three more were thrust in on us. At
+last, when we totalled sixteen, we were led upstairs into the court-room.
+And now I shall faithfully describe what took place in that court-room,
+for know that my patriotic American citizenship there received a shock
+from which it has never fully recovered.</p>
+
+<p>In the court-room were the sixteen prisoners, the judge, and two bailiffs.
+The judge seemed to act as his own clerk. There were no witnesses. There
+were no citizens of Niagara Falls present to look on and see how justice
+was administered in their community. The judge glanced at the list of
+cases before him and called out a name. A hobo stood up. The judge glanced
+at a bailiff. &quot;Vagrancy, your Honor,&quot; said the bailiff. &quot;Thirty days,&quot;
+said his Honor. The hobo sat down, and the judge was calling another name
+and another hobo was rising to his feet.</p>
+
+<p>The trial of that hobo had taken just about fifteen seconds. The trial of
+the next hobo came off with equal celerity. The bailiff said, &quot;Vagrancy,
+your Honor,&quot; and his Honor said, &quot;Thirty days.&quot; Thus it went like
+clockwork, fifteen seconds to a hobo&mdash;and thirty days.</p>
+
+<p>They are poor dumb cattle, I thought to myself. But wait till my turn
+comes; I'll give his Honor a &quot;spiel.&quot; Part way along in the performance,
+his Honor, moved by some whim, gave one of us an opportunity to speak. As
+chance would have it, this man was not a genuine hobo. He bore none of the
+ear-marks of the professional &quot;stiff.&quot; Had he approached the rest of us,
+while waiting at a water-tank for a freight, we should have unhesitatingly
+classified him as a &quot;gay-cat.&quot; Gay-cat is the synonym for tenderfoot in
+Hobo Land. This gay-cat was well along in years&mdash;somewhere around
+forty-five, I should judge. His shoulders were humped a trifle, and his
+face was seamed by weather-beat.</p>
+
+<p>For many years, according to his story, he had driven team for some firm
+in (if I remember rightly) Lockport, New York. The firm had ceased to
+prosper, and finally, in the hard times of 1893, had gone out of business.
+He had been kept on to the last, though toward the last his work had been
+very irregular. He went on and explained at length his difficulties in
+getting work (when so many were out of work) during the succeeding months.
+In the end, deciding that he would find better opportunities for work on
+the Lakes, he had started for Buffalo. Of course he was &quot;broke,&quot; and
+there he was. That was all.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Thirty days,&quot; said his Honor, and called another hobo's name.</p>
+
+<p>Said hobo got up. &quot;Vagrancy, your Honor,&quot; said the bailiff, and his Honor
+said, &quot;Thirty days.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>And so it went, fifteen seconds and thirty days to each hobo. The machine
+of justice was grinding smoothly. Most likely, considering how early it
+was in the morning, his Honor had not yet had his breakfast and was in a
+hurry.</p>
+
+<p>But my American blood was up. Behind me were the many generations of my
+American ancestry. One of the kinds of liberty those ancestors of mine had
+fought and died for was the right of trial by jury. This was my heritage,
+stained sacred by their blood, and it devolved upon me to stand up for it.
+All right, I threatened to myself; just wait till he gets to me.</p>
+
+<p>He got to me. My name, whatever it was, was called, and I stood up. The
+bailiff said, &quot;Vagrancy, your Honor,&quot; and I began to talk. But the judge
+began talking at the same time, and he said, &quot;Thirty days.&quot; I started to
+protest, but at that moment his Honor was calling the name of the next
+hobo on the list. His Honor paused long enough to say to me, &quot;Shut up!&quot;
+The bailiff forced me to sit down. And the next moment that next hobo had
+received thirty days and the succeeding hobo was just in process of
+getting his.</p>
+
+<p>When we had all been disposed of, thirty days to each stiff, his Honor,
+just as he was about to dismiss us, suddenly turned to the teamster from
+Lockport&mdash;the one man he had allowed to talk.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Why did you quit your job?&quot; his Honor asked.</p>
+
+<p>Now the teamster had already explained how his job had quit him, and the
+question took him aback.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Your Honor,&quot; he began confusedly, &quot;isn't that a funny question to ask?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Thirty days more for quitting your job,&quot; said his Honor, and the court
+was closed. That was the outcome. The teamster got sixty days all
+together, while the rest of us got thirty days.</p>
+
+<p>We were taken down below, locked up, and given breakfast. It was a pretty
+good breakfast, as prison breakfasts go, and it was the best I was to get
+for a month to come.</p>
+
+<p>As for me, I was dazed. Here was I, under sentence, after a farce of a
+trial wherein I was denied not only my right of trial by jury, but my
+right to plead guilty or not guilty. Another thing my fathers had fought
+for flashed through my brain&mdash;habeas corpus. I'd show them. But when I
+asked for a lawyer, I was laughed at. Habeas corpus was all right, but of
+what good was it to me when I could communicate with no one outside the
+jail? But I'd show them. They couldn't keep me in jail forever. Just wait
+till I got out, that was all. I'd make them sit up. I knew something about
+the law and my own rights, and I'd expose their maladministration of
+justice. Visions of damage suits and sensational newspaper headlines were
+dancing before my eyes when the jailers came in and began hustling us out
+into the main office.</p>
+
+<p>A policeman snapped a handcuff on my right wrist. (Ah, ha, thought I, a
+new indignity. Just wait till I get out.) On the left wrist of a negro he
+snapped the other handcuff of that pair. He was a very tall negro, well
+past six feet&mdash;so tall was he that when we stood side by side his hand
+lifted mine up a trifle in the manacles. Also, he was the happiest and the
+raggedest negro I have ever seen.</p>
+
+<p>We were all handcuffed similarly, in pairs. This accomplished, a bright
+nickel-steel chain was brought forth, run down through the links of all
+the handcuffs, and locked at front and rear of the double-line. We were
+now a chain-gang. The command to march was given, and out we went upon the
+street, guarded by two officers. The tall negro and I had the place of
+honor. We led the procession.</p>
+
+<p>After the tomb-like gloom of the jail, the outside sunshine was dazzling.
+I had never known it to be so sweet as now, a prisoner with clanking
+chains, I knew that I was soon to see the last of it for thirty days. Down
+through the streets of Niagara Falls we marched to the railroad station,
+stared at by curious passers-by, and especially by a group of tourists on
+the veranda of a hotel that we marched past.</p>
+
+<p>There was plenty of slack in the chain, and with much rattling and
+clanking we sat down, two and two, in the seats of the smoking-car. Afire
+with indignation as I was at the outrage that had been perpetrated on me
+and my forefathers, I was nevertheless too prosaically practical to lose
+my head over it. This was all new to me. Thirty days of mystery were
+before me, and I looked about me to find somebody who knew the ropes. For
+I had already learned that I was not bound for a petty jail with a hundred
+or so prisoners in it, but for a full-grown penitentiary with a couple of
+thousand prisoners in it, doing anywhere from ten days to ten years.</p>
+
+<p>In the seat behind me, attached to the chain by his wrist, was a squat,
+heavily-built, powerfully-muscled man. He was somewhere between
+thirty-five and forty years of age. I sized him up. In the corners of his
+eyes I saw humor and laughter and kindliness. As for the rest of him, he
+was a brute-beast, wholly unmoral, and with all the passion and turgid
+violence of the brute-beast. What saved him, what made him possible for
+me, were those corners of his eyes&mdash;the humor and laughter and kindliness
+of the beast when unaroused.</p>
+
+<p>He was my &quot;meat.&quot; I &quot;cottoned&quot; to him. While my cuff-mate, the tall negro,
+mourned with chucklings and laughter over some laundry he was sure to lose
+through his arrest, and while the train rolled on toward Buffalo, I talked
+with the man in the seat behind me. He had an empty pipe. I filled it for
+him with my precious tobacco&mdash;enough in a single filling to make a dozen
+cigarettes. Nay, the more we talked the surer I was that he was my meat,
+and I divided all my tobacco with him.</p>
+
+<p>Now it happens that I am a fluid sort of an organism, with sufficient
+kinship with life to fit myself in 'most anywhere. I laid myself out to
+fit in with that man, though little did I dream to what extraordinary good
+purpose I was succeeding. He had never been in the particular penitentiary
+to which we were going, but he had done &quot;one-,&quot; &quot;two-,&quot; and &quot;five-spots&quot;
+in various other penitentiaries (a &quot;spot&quot; is a year), and he was filled
+with wisdom. We became pretty chummy, and my heart bounded when he
+cautioned me to follow his lead. He called me &quot;Jack,&quot; and I called him
+&quot;Jack.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The train stopped at a station about five miles from Buffalo, and we, the
+chain-gang, got off. I do not remember the name of this station, but I am
+confident that it is some one of the following: Rocklyn, Rockwood, Black
+Rock, Rockcastle, or Newcastle. But whatever the name of the place, we
+were walked a short distance and then put on a street-car. It was an
+old-fashioned car, with a seat, running the full length, on each side. All
+the passengers who sat on one side were asked to move over to the other
+side, and we, with a great clanking of chain, took their places. We sat
+facing them, I remember, and I remember, too, the awed expression on the
+faces of the women, who took us, undoubtedly, for convicted murderers and
+bank-robbers. I tried to look my fiercest, but that cuff-mate of mine, the
+too happy negro, insisted on rolling his eyes, laughing, and reiterating,
+&quot;O Lawdy! Lawdy!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>We left the car, walked some more, and were led into the office of the
+Erie County Penitentiary. Here we were to register, and on that register
+one or the other of my names will be found. Also, we were informed that we
+must leave in the office all our valuables: money, tobacco, matches,
+pocketknives, and so forth.</p>
+
+<p>My new pal shook his head at me.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;If you do not leave your things here, they will be confiscated inside,&quot;
+warned the official.</p>
+
+<p>Still my pal shook his head. He was busy with his hands, hiding his
+movements behind the other fellows. (Our handcuffs had been removed.) I
+watched him, and followed suit, wrapping up in a bundle in my handkerchief
+all the things I wanted to take in. These bundles the two of us thrust
+into our shirts. I noticed that our fellow-prisoners, with the exception
+of one or two who had watches, did not turn over their belongings to the
+man in the office. They were determined to smuggle them in somehow,
+trusting to luck; but they were not so wise as my pal, for they did not
+wrap their things in bundles.</p>
+
+<p>Our erstwhile guardians gathered up the handcuffs and chain and departed
+for Niagara Falls, while we, under new guardians, were led away into the
+prison. While we were in the office, our number had been added to by other
+squads of newly arrived prisoners, so that we were now a procession forty
+or fifty strong.</p>
+
+<p>Know, ye unimprisoned, that traffic is as restricted inside a large prison
+as commerce was in the Middle Ages. Once inside a penitentiary, one cannot
+move about at will. Every few steps are encountered great steel doors or
+gates which are always kept locked. We were bound for the barber-shop, but
+we encountered delays in the unlocking of doors for us. We were thus
+delayed in the first &quot;hall&quot; we entered. A &quot;hall&quot; is not a corridor.
+Imagine an oblong cube, built out of bricks and rising six stories high,
+each story a row of cells, say fifty cells in a row&mdash;in short, imagine a
+cube of colossal honeycomb. Place this cube on the ground and enclose it
+in a building with a roof overhead and walls all around. Such a cube and
+encompassing building constitute a &quot;hall&quot; in the Erie County Penitentiary.
+Also, to complete the picture, see a narrow gallery, with steel railing,
+running the full length of each tier of cells and at the ends of the
+oblong cube see all these galleries, from both sides, connected by a
+fire-escape system of narrow steel stairways.</p>
+
+<p>We were halted in the first hall, waiting for some guard to unlock a door.
+Here and there, moving about, were convicts, with close-cropped heads and
+shaven faces, and garbed in prison stripes. One such convict I noticed
+above us on the gallery of the third tier of cells. He was standing on the
+gallery and leaning forward, his arms resting on the railing, himself
+apparently oblivious of our presence. He seemed staring into vacancy. My
+pal made a slight hissing noise. The convict glanced down. Motioned
+signals passed between them. Then through the air soared the handkerchief
+bundle of my pal. The convict caught it, and like a flash it was out of
+sight in his shirt and he was staring into vacancy. My pal had told me to
+follow his lead. I watched my chance when the guard's back was turned, and
+my bundle followed the other one into the shirt of the convict.</p>
+
+<p>A minute later the door was unlocked, and we filed into the barber-shop.
+Here were more men in convict stripes. They were the prison barbers. Also,
+there were bath-tubs, hot water, soap, and scrubbing-brushes. We were
+ordered to strip and bathe, each man to scrub his neighbor's back&mdash;a
+needless precaution, this compulsory bath, for the prison swarmed with
+vermin. After the bath, we were each given a canvas clothes-bag.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Put all your clothes in the bags,&quot; said the guard. &quot;It's no good trying
+to smuggle anything in. You've got to line up naked for inspection. Men
+for thirty days or less keep their shoes and suspenders. Men for more than
+thirty days keep nothing.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>This announcement was received with consternation. How could naked men
+smuggle anything past an inspection? Only my pal and I were safe. But it
+was right here that the convict barbers got in their work. They passed
+among the poor newcomers, kindly volunteering to take charge of their
+precious little belongings, and promising to return them later in the day.
+Those barbers were philanthropists&mdash;to hear them talk. As in the case of
+Fra Lippo Lippi, never was there such prompt disemburdening. Matches,
+tobacco, rice-paper, pipes, knives, money, everything, flowed into the
+capacious shirts of the barbers. They fairly bulged with the spoil, and
+the guards made believe not to see. To cut the story short, nothing was
+ever returned. The barbers never had any intention of returning what they
+had taken. They considered it legitimately theirs. It was the barber-shop
+graft. There were many grafts in that prison, as I was to learn; and I,
+too, was destined to become a grafter&mdash;thanks to my new pal.</p>
+
+<p>There were several chairs, and the barbers worked rapidly. The quickest
+shaves and hair-cuts I have ever seen were given in that shop. The men
+lathered themselves, and the barbers shaved them at the rate of a minute
+to a man. A hair-cut took a trifle longer. In three minutes the down of
+eighteen was scraped from my face, and my head was as smooth as a
+billiard-ball just sprouting a crop of bristles. Beards, mustaches, like
+our clothes and everything, came off. Take my word for it, we were a
+villainous-looking gang when they got through with us. I had not realized
+before how really altogether bad we were.</p>
+
+<p>Then came the line-up, forty or fifty of us, naked as Kipling's heroes who
+stormed Lungtungpen. To search us was easy. There were only our shoes and
+ourselves. Two or three rash spirits, who had doubted the barbers, had the
+goods found on them&mdash;which goods, namely, tobacco, pipes, matches, and
+small change, were quickly confiscated. This over, our new clothes were
+brought to us&mdash;stout prison shirts, and coats and trousers conspicuously
+striped. I had always lingered under the impression that the convict
+stripes were put on a man only after he had been convicted of a felony. I
+lingered no longer, but put on the insignia of shame and got my first
+taste of marching the lock-step.</p>
+
+<p>In single file, close together, each man's hands on the shoulders of the
+man in front, we marched on into another large hall. Here we were ranged
+up against the wall in a long line and ordered to strip our left arms. A
+youth, a medical student who was getting in his practice on cattle such as
+we, came down the line. He vaccinated just about four times as rapidly as
+the barbers shaved. With a final caution to avoid rubbing our arms against
+anything, and to let the blood dry so as to form the scab, we were led
+away to our cells. Here my pal and I parted, but not before he had time to
+whisper to me, &quot;Suck it out.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>As soon as I was locked in, I sucked my arm clean. And afterward I saw men
+who had not sucked and who had horrible holes in their arms into which I
+could have thrust my fist. It was their own fault. They could have sucked.</p>
+
+<p>In my cell was another man. We were to be cell-mates. He was a young,
+manly fellow, not talkative, but very capable, indeed as splendid a fellow
+as one could meet with in a day's ride, and this in spite of the fact that
+he had just recently finished a two-year term in some Ohio penitentiary.</p>
+
+<p>Hardly had we been in our cell half an hour, when a convict sauntered down
+the gallery and looked in. It was my pal. He had the freedom of the hall,
+he explained. He was unlocked at six in the morning and not locked up
+again till nine at night. He was in with the &quot;push&quot; in that hall, and had
+been promptly appointed a trusty of the kind technically known as
+&quot;hall-man.&quot; The man who had appointed him was also a prisoner and a
+trusty, and was known as &quot;First Hall-man.&quot; There were thirteen hall-men in
+that hall. Ten of them had charge each of a gallery of cells, and over
+them were the First, Second, and Third Hall-men.</p>
+
+<p>We newcomers were to stay in our cells for the rest of the day, my pal
+informed me, so that the vaccine would have a chance to take. Then next
+morning we would be put to hard labor in the prison-yard.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;But I'll get you out of the work as soon as I can,&quot; he promised. &quot;I'll
+get one of the hall-men fired and have you put in his place.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He put his hand into his shirt, drew out the handkerchief containing my
+precious belongings, passed it in to me through the bars, and went on down
+the gallery.</p>
+
+<p>I opened the bundle. Everything was there. Not even a match was missing. I
+shared the makings of a cigarette with my cell-mate. When I started to
+strike a match for a light, he stopped me. A flimsy, dirty comforter lay
+in each of our bunks for bedding. He tore off a narrow strip of the thin
+cloth and rolled it tightly and telescopically into a long and slender
+cylinder. This he lighted with a precious match. The cylinder of
+tight-rolled cotton cloth did not flame. On the end a coal of fire slowly
+smouldered. It would last for hours, and my cell-mate called it a &quot;punk.&quot;
+And when it burned short, all that was necessary was to make a new punk,
+put the end of it against the old, blow on them, and so transfer the
+glowing coal. Why, we could have given Prometheus pointers on the
+conserving of fire.</p>
+
+<p>At twelve o'clock dinner was served. At the bottom of our cage door was a
+small opening like the entrance of a runway in a chicken-yard. Through
+this were thrust two hunks of dry bread and two pannikins of &quot;soup.&quot; A
+portion of soup consisted of about a quart of hot water with floating on
+its surface a lonely drop of grease. Also, there was some salt in that
+water.</p>
+
+<p>We drank the soup, but we did not eat the bread. Not that we were not
+hungry, and not that the bread was uneatable. It was fairly good bread.
+But we had reasons. My cell-mate had discovered that our cell was alive
+with bed-bugs. In all the cracks and interstices between the bricks where
+the mortar had fallen out flourished great colonies. The natives even
+ventured out in the broad daylight and swarmed over the walls and ceiling
+by hundreds. My cell-mate was wise in the ways of the beasts. Like Childe
+Roland, dauntless the slug-horn to his lips he bore. Never was there such
+a battle. It lasted for hours. It was shambles. And when the last
+survivors fled to their brick-and-mortar fastnesses, our work was only
+half done. We chewed mouthfuls of our bread until it was reduced to the
+consistency of putty. When a fleeing belligerent escaped into a crevice
+between the bricks, we promptly walled him in with a daub of the chewed
+bread. We toiled on until the light grew dim and until every hole, nook,
+and cranny was closed. I shudder to think of the tragedies of starvation
+and cannibalism that must have ensued behind those bread-plastered
+ramparts.</p>
+
+<p>We threw ourselves on our bunks, tired out and hungry, to wait for supper.
+It was a good day's work well done. In the weeks to come we at least
+should not suffer from the hosts of vermin. We had foregone our dinner,
+saved our hides at the expense of our stomachs; but we were content. Alas
+for the futility of human effort! Scarcely was our long task completed
+when a guard unlocked our door. A redistribution of prisoners was being
+made, and we were taken to another cell and locked in two galleries higher
+up.</p>
+
+<p>Early next morning our cells were unlocked, and down in the hall the
+several hundred prisoners of us formed the lock-step and marched out into
+the prison-yard to go to work. The Erie Canal runs right by the back yard
+of the Erie County Penitentiary. Our task was to unload canal-boats,
+carrying huge stay-bolts on our shoulders, like railroad ties, into the
+prison. As I worked I sized up the situation and studied the chances for a
+get-away. There wasn't the ghost of a show. Along the tops of the walls
+marched guards armed with repeating rifles, and I was told, furthermore,
+that there were machine-guns in the sentry-towers.</p>
+
+<p>I did not worry. Thirty days were not so long. I'd stay those thirty days,
+and add to the store of material I intended to use, when I got out,
+against the harpies of justice. I'd show what an American boy could do
+when his rights and privileges had been trampled on the way mine had. I
+had been denied my right of trial by jury; I had been denied my right to
+plead guilty or not guilty; I had been denied a trial even (for I couldn't
+consider that what I had received at Niagara Falls was a trial); I had not
+been allowed to communicate with a lawyer nor any one, and hence had been
+denied my right of suing for a writ of habeas corpus; my face had been
+shaved, my hair cropped close, convict stripes had been put upon my body;
+I was forced to toil hard on a diet of bread and water and to march the
+shameful lock-step with armed guards over me&mdash;and all for what? What had
+I done? What crime had I committed against the good citizens of Niagara
+Falls that all this vengeance should be wreaked upon me? I had not even
+violated their &quot;sleeping-out&quot; ordinance. I had slept outside their
+jurisdiction, in the country, that night. I had not even begged for a
+meal, or battered for a &quot;light piece&quot; on their streets. All that I had
+done was to walk along their sidewalk and gaze at their picayune
+waterfall. And what crime was there in that? Technically I was guilty of
+no misdemeanor. All right, I'd show them when I got out.</p>
+
+<p>The next day I talked with a guard. I wanted to send for a lawyer. The
+guard laughed at me. So did the other guards. I really was <i>incommunicado</i>
+so far as the outside world was concerned. I tried to write a letter out,
+but I learned that all letters were read, and censured or confiscated, by
+the prison authorities, and that &quot;short-timers&quot; were not allowed to write
+letters anyway. A little later I tried smuggling letters out by men who
+were released, but I learned that they were searched and the letters found
+and destroyed. Never mind. It all helped to make it a blacker case when I
+did get out.</p>
+
+<p>But as the prison days went by (which I shall describe in the next
+chapter), I &quot;learned a few.&quot; I heard tales of the police, and
+police-courts, and lawyers, that were unbelievable and monstrous. Men,
+prisoners, told me of personal experiences with the police of great cities
+that were awful. And more awful were the hearsay tales they told me
+concerning men who had died at the hands of the police and who therefore
+could not testify for themselves. Years afterward, in the report of the
+Lexow Committee, I was to read tales true and more awful than those told
+to me. But in the meantime, during the first days of my imprisonment, I
+scoffed at what I heard.</p>
+
+<p>As the days went by, however, I began to grow convinced. I saw with my own
+eyes, there in that prison, things unbelievable and monstrous. And the
+more convinced I became, the profounder grew the respect in me for the
+sleuth-hounds of the law and for the whole institution of criminal
+justice.</p>
+
+<p>My indignation ebbed away, and into my being rushed the tides of fear. I
+saw at last, clear-eyed, what I was up against. I grew meek and lowly.
+Each day I resolved more emphatically to make no rumpus when I got out.
+All I asked, when I got out, was a chance to fade away from the landscape.
+And that was just what I did do when I was released. I kept my tongue
+between my teeth, walked softly, and sneaked for Pennsylvania, a wiser and
+a humbler man.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="The_Pen" id="The_Pen" /><i>The Pen</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>For two days I toiled in the prison-yard. It was heavy work, and, in spite
+of the fact that I malingered at every opportunity, I was played out. This
+was because of the food. No man could work hard on such food. Bread and
+water, that was all that was given us. Once a week we were supposed to get
+meat; but this meat did not always go around, and since all nutriment had
+first been boiled out of it in the making of soup, it didn't matter
+whether one got a taste of it once a week or not.</p>
+
+<p>Furthermore, there was one vital defect in the bread-and-water diet. While
+we got plenty of water, we did not get enough of the bread. A ration of
+bread was about the size of one's two fists, and three rations a day were
+given to each prisoner. There was one good thing, I must say, about the
+water&mdash;it was hot. In the morning it was called &quot;coffee,&quot; at noon it was
+dignified as &quot;soup,&quot; and at night it masqueraded as &quot;tea.&quot; But it was the
+same old water all the time. The prisoners called it &quot;water bewitched.&quot; In
+the morning it was black water, the color being due to boiling it with
+burnt bread-crusts. At noon it was served minus the color, with salt and a
+drop of grease added. At night it was served with a purplish-auburn hue
+that defied all speculation; it was darn poor tea, but it was dandy hot
+water.</p>
+
+<p>We were a hungry lot in the Erie County Pen. Only the &quot;long-timers&quot; knew
+what it was to have enough to eat. The reason for this was that they would
+have died after a time on the fare we &quot;short-timers&quot; received. I know that
+the long-timers got more substantial grub, because there was a whole row
+of them on the ground floor in our hall, and when I was a trusty, I used
+to steal from their grub while serving them. Man cannot live on bread
+alone and not enough of it.</p>
+
+<p>My pal delivered the goods. After two days of work in the yard I was taken
+out of my cell and made a trusty, a &quot;hall-man.&quot; At morning and night we
+served the bread to the prisoners in their cells; but at twelve o'clock a
+different method was used. The convicts marched in from work in a long
+line. As they entered the door of our hall, they broke the lock-step and
+took their hands down from the shoulders of their line-mates. Just inside
+the door were piled trays of bread, and here also stood the First Hall-man
+and two ordinary hall-men. I was one of the two. Our task was to hold the
+trays of bread as the line of convicts filed past. As soon as the tray,
+say, that I was holding was emptied, the other hall-man took my place with
+a full tray. And when his was emptied, I took his place with a full tray.
+Thus the line tramped steadily by, each man reaching with his right hand
+and taking one ration of bread from the extended tray.</p>
+
+<p>The task of the First Hall-man was different. He used a club. He stood
+beside the tray and watched. The hungry wretches could never get over the
+delusion that sometime they could manage to get two rations of bread out
+of the tray. But in my experience that sometime never came. The club of
+the First Hall-man had a way of flashing out&mdash;quick as the stroke of a
+tiger's claw&mdash;to the hand that dared ambitiously. The First Hall-man was a
+good judge of distance, and he had smashed so many hands with that club
+that he had become infallible. He never missed, and he usually punished
+the offending convict by taking his one ration away from him and sending
+him to his cell to make his meal off of hot water.</p>
+
+<p>And at times, while all these men lay hungry in their cells, I have seen a
+hundred or so extra rations of bread hidden away in the cells of the
+hall-men. It would seem absurd, our retaining this bread. But it was one
+of our grafts. We were economic masters inside our hall, turning the trick
+in ways quite similar to the economic masters of civilization. We
+controlled the food-supply of the population, and, just like our brother
+bandits outside, we made the people pay through the nose for it. We
+peddled the bread. Once a week, the men who worked in the yard received a
+five-cent plug of chewing tobacco. This chewing tobacco was the coin of
+the realm. Two or three rations of bread for a plug was the way we
+exchanged, and they traded, not because they loved tobacco less, but
+because they loved bread more. Oh, I know, it was like taking candy from a
+baby, but what would you? We had to live. And certainly there should be
+some reward for initiative and enterprise. Besides, we but patterned
+ourselves after our betters outside the walls, who, on a larger scale,
+and under the respectable disguise of merchants, bankers, and captains of
+industry, did precisely what we were doing. What awful things would have
+happened to those poor wretches if it hadn't been for us, I can't imagine.
+Heaven knows we put bread into circulation in the Erie County Pen. Ay, and
+we encouraged frugality and thrift ... in the poor devils who forewent
+their tobacco. And then there was our example. In the breast of every
+convict there we implanted the ambition to become even as we and run a
+graft. Saviours of society&mdash;I guess yes.</p>
+
+<p>Here was a hungry man without any tobacco. Maybe he was a profligate and
+had used it all up on himself. Very good; he had a pair of suspenders. I
+exchanged half a dozen rations of bread for it&mdash;or a dozen rations if the
+suspenders were very good. Now I never wore suspenders, but that didn't
+matter. Around the corner lodged a long-timer, doing ten years for
+manslaughter. He wore suspenders, and he wanted a pair. I could trade them
+to him for some of his meat. Meat was what I wanted. Or perhaps he had a
+tattered, paper-covered novel. That was treasure-trove. I could read it
+and then trade it off to the bakers for cake, or to the cooks for meat and
+vegetables, or to the firemen for decent coffee, or to some one or other
+for the newspaper that occasionally filtered in, heaven alone knows how.
+The cooks, bakers, and firemen were prisoners like myself, and they lodged
+in our hall in the first row of cells over us.</p>
+
+<p>In short, a full-grown system of barter obtained in the Erie County Pen.
+There was even money in circulation. This money was sometimes smuggled in
+by the short-timers, more frequently came from the barber-shop graft,
+where the newcomers were mulcted, but most of all flowed from the cells of
+the long-timers&mdash;though how they got it I don't know.</p>
+
+<p>What of his preeminent position, the First Hall-man was reputed to be
+quite wealthy. In addition to his miscellaneous grafts, he grafted on us.
+We farmed the general wretchedness, and the First Hall-man was
+Farmer-General over all of us. We held our particular grafts by his
+permission, and we had to pay for that permission. As I say, he was
+reputed to be wealthy; but we never saw his money, and he lived in a cell
+all to himself in solitary grandeur.</p>
+
+<p>But that money was made in the Pen I had direct evidence, for I was
+cell-mate quite a time with the Third Hall-man. He had over sixteen
+dollars. He used to count his money every night after nine o'clock, when
+we were locked in. Also, he used to tell me each night what he would do to
+me if I gave away on him to the other hall-men. You see, he was afraid of
+being robbed, and danger threatened him from three different directions.
+There were the guards. A couple of them might jump upon him, give him a
+good beating for alleged insubordination, and throw him into the
+&quot;solitaire&quot; (the dungeon); and in the mix-up that sixteen dollars of his
+would take wings. Then again, the First Hall-man could have taken it all
+away from him by threatening to dismiss him and fire him back to hard
+labor in the prison-yard. And yet again, there were the ten of us who were
+ordinary hall-men. If we got an inkling of his wealth, there was a large
+liability, some quiet day, of the whole bunch of us getting him into a
+corner and dragging him down. Oh, we were wolves, believe me&mdash;just like
+the fellows who do business in Wall Street.</p>
+
+<p>He had good reason to be afraid of us, and so had I to be afraid of him.
+He was a huge, illiterate brute, an ex-Chesapeake-Bay-oyster-pirate, an
+&quot;ex-con&quot; who had done five years in Sing Sing, and a general all-around
+stupidly carnivorous beast. He used to trap sparrows that flew into our
+hall through the open bars. When he made a capture, he hurried away with
+it into his cell, where I have seen him crunching bones and spitting out
+feathers as he bolted it raw. Oh, no, I never gave away on him to the
+other hall-men. This is the first time I have mentioned his sixteen
+dollars.</p>
+
+<p>But I grafted on him just the same. He was in love with a woman prisoner
+who was confined in the &quot;female department.&quot; He could neither read nor
+write, and I used to read her letters to him and write his replies. And I
+made him pay for it, too. But they were good letters. I laid myself out on
+them, put in my best licks, and furthermore, I won her for him; though I
+shrewdly guess that she was in love, not with him, but with the humble
+scribe. I repeat, those letters were great.</p>
+
+<p>Another one of our grafts was &quot;passing the punk.&quot; We were the celestial
+messengers, the fire-bringers, in that iron world of bolt and bar. When
+the men came in from work at night and were locked in their cells, they
+wanted to smoke. Then it was that we restored the divine spark, running
+the galleries, from cell to cell, with our smouldering punks. Those who
+were wise, or with whom we did business, had their punks all ready to
+light. Not every one got divine sparks, however. The guy who refused to
+dig up, went sparkless and smokeless to bed. But what did we care? We had
+the immortal cinch on him, and if he got fresh, two or three of us would
+pitch on him and give him &quot;what-for.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>You see, this was the working-theory of the hall-men. There were thirteen
+of us. We had something like half a thousand prisoners in our hall. We
+were supposed to do the work, and to keep order. The latter was the
+function of the guards, which they turned over to us. It was up to us to
+keep order; if we didn't, we'd be fired back to hard labor, most probably
+with a taste of the dungeon thrown in. But so long as we maintained order,
+that long could we work our own particular grafts.</p>
+
+<p>Bear with me a moment and look at the problem. Here were thirteen beasts
+of us over half a thousand other beasts. It was a living hell, that
+prison, and it was up to us thirteen there to rule. It was impossible,
+considering the nature of the beasts, for us to rule by kindness. We ruled
+by fear. Of course, behind us, backing us up, were the guards. In
+extremity we called upon them for help; but it would bother them if we
+called upon them too often, in which event we could depend upon it that
+they would get more efficient trusties to take our places. But we did not
+call upon them often, except in a quiet sort of way, when we wanted a cell
+unlocked in order to get at a refractory prisoner inside. In such cases
+all the guard did was to unlock the door and walk away so as not to be a
+witness of what happened when half a dozen hall-men went inside and did a
+bit of man-handling.</p>
+
+<p>As regards the details of this man-handling I shall say nothing. And after
+all, man-handling was merely one of the very minor unprintable horrors of
+the Erie County Pen. I say &quot;unprintable&quot;; and in justice I must also say
+&quot;unthinkable.&quot; They were unthinkable to me until I saw them, and I was no
+spring chicken in the ways of the world and the awful abysses of human
+degradation. It would take a deep plummet to reach bottom in the Erie
+County Pen, and I do but skim lightly and facetiously the surface of
+things as I there saw them.</p>
+
+<p>At times, say in the morning when the prisoners came down to wash, the
+thirteen of us would be practically alone in the midst of them, and every
+last one of them had it in for us. Thirteen against five hundred, and we
+ruled by fear. We could not permit the slightest infraction of rules, the
+slightest insolence. If we did, we were lost. Our own rule was to hit a
+man as soon as he opened his mouth&mdash;hit him hard, hit him with anything. A
+broom-handle, end-on, in the face, had a very sobering effect. But that
+was not all. Such a man must be made an example of; so the next rule was
+to wade right in and follow him up. Of course, one was sure that every
+hall-man in sight would come on the run to join in the chastisement; for
+this also was a rule. Whenever any hall-man was in trouble with a
+prisoner, the duty of any other hall-man who happened to be around was to
+lend a fist. Never mind the merits of the case&mdash;wade in and hit, and hit
+with anything; in short, lay the man out.</p>
+
+<p>I remember a handsome young mulatto of about twenty who got the insane
+idea into his head that he should stand for his rights. And he did have
+the right of it, too; but that didn't help him any. He lived on the
+topmost gallery. Eight hall-men took the conceit out of him in just about
+a minute and a half&mdash;for that was the length of time required to travel
+along his gallery to the end and down five flights of steel stairs. He
+travelled the whole distance on every portion of his anatomy except his
+feet, and the eight hall-men were not idle. The mulatto struck the
+pavement where I was standing watching it all. He regained his feet and
+stood upright for a moment. In that moment he threw his arms wide apart
+and omitted an awful scream of terror and pain and heartbreak. At the same
+instant, as in a transformation scene, the shreds of his stout prison
+clothes fell from him, leaving him wholly naked and streaming blood from
+every portion of the surface of his body. Then he collapsed in a heap,
+unconscious. He had learned his lesson, and every convict within those
+walls who heard him scream had learned a lesson. So had I learned mine.
+It is not a nice thing to see a man's heart broken in a minute and a half.</p>
+
+<p>The following will illustrate how we drummed up business in the graft of
+passing the punk. A row of newcomers is installed in your cells. You pass
+along before the bars with your punk. &quot;Hey, Bo, give us a light,&quot; some one
+calls to you. Now this is an advertisement that that particular man has
+tobacco on him. You pass in the punk and go your way. A little later you
+come back and lean up casually against the bars. &quot;Say, Bo, can you let us
+have a little tobacco?&quot; is what you say. If he is not wise to the game,
+the chances are that he solemnly avers that he hasn't any more tobacco.
+All very well. You condole with him and go your way. But you know that his
+punk will last him only the rest of that day. Next day you come by, and he
+says again, &quot;Hey, Bo, give us a light.&quot; And you say, &quot;You haven't any
+tobacco and you don't need a light.&quot; And you don't give him any, either.
+Half an hour after, or an hour or two or three hours, you will be passing
+by and the man will call out to you in mild tones, &quot;Come here, Bo.&quot; And
+you come. You thrust your hand between the bars and have it filled with
+precious tobacco. Then you give him a light.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes, however, a newcomer arrives, upon whom no grafts are to be
+worked. The mysterious word is passed along that he is to be treated
+decently. Where this word originated I could never learn. The one thing
+patent is that the man has a &quot;pull.&quot; It may be with one of the superior
+hall-men; it may be with one of the guards in some other part of the
+prison; it may be that good treatment has been purchased from grafters
+higher up; but be it as it may, we know that it is up to us to treat him
+decently if we want to avoid trouble.</p>
+
+<p>We hall-men were middle-men and common carriers. We arranged trades
+between convicts confined in different parts of the prison, and we put
+through the exchange. Also, we took our commissions coming and going.
+Sometimes the objects traded had to go through the hands of half a dozen
+middle-men, each of whom took his whack, or in some way or another was
+paid for his service.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes one was in debt for services, and sometimes one had others in
+his debt. Thus, I entered the prison in debt to the convict who smuggled
+in my things for me. A week or so afterward, one of the firemen passed a
+letter into my hand. It had been given to him by a barber. The barber had
+received it from the convict who had smuggled in my things. Because of my
+debt to him I was to carry the letter on. But he had not written the
+letter. The original sender was a long-timer in his hall. The letter was
+for a woman prisoner in the female department. But whether it was intended
+for her, or whether she, in turn, was one of the chain of go-betweens, I
+did not know. All that I knew was her description, and that it was up to
+me to get it into her hands.</p>
+
+<p>Two days passed, during which time I kept the letter in my possession;
+then the opportunity came. The women did the mending of all the clothes
+worn by the convicts. A number of our hall-men had to go to the female
+department to bring back huge bundles of clothes. I fixed it with the
+First Hall-man that I was to go along. Door after door was unlocked for us
+as we threaded our way across the prison to the women's quarters. We
+entered a large room where the women sat working at their mending. My eyes
+were peeled for the woman who had been described to me. I located her and
+worked near to her. Two eagle-eyed matrons were on watch. I held the
+letter in my palm, and I looked my intention at the woman. She knew I had
+something for her; she must have been expecting it, and had set herself to
+divining, at the moment we entered, which of us was the messenger. But one
+of the matrons stood within two feet of her. Already the hall-men were
+picking up the bundles they were to carry away. The moment was passing. I
+delayed with my bundle, making believe that it was not tied securely.
+Would that matron ever look away? Or was I to fail? And just then another
+woman cut up playfully with one of the hall-men&mdash;stuck out her foot and
+tripped him, or pinched him, or did something or other. The matron looked
+that way and reprimanded the woman sharply. Now I do not know whether or
+not this was all planned to distract the matron's attention, but I did
+know that it was my opportunity. My particular woman's hand dropped from
+her lap down by her side. I stooped to pick up my bundle. From my stooping
+position I slipped the letter into her hand, and received another in
+exchange. The next moment the bundle was on my shoulder, the matron's
+gaze had returned to me because I was the last hall-man, and I was
+hastening to catch up with my companions. The letter I had received from
+the woman I turned over to the fireman, and thence it passed through the
+hands of the barber, of the convict who had smuggled in my things, and on
+to the long-timer at the other end.</p>
+
+<p>Often we conveyed letters, the chain of communication of which was so
+complex that we knew neither sender nor sendee. We were but links in the
+chain. Somewhere, somehow, a convict would thrust a letter into my hand
+with the instruction to pass it on to the next link. All such acts were
+favors to be reciprocated later on, when I should be acting directly with
+a principal in transmitting letters, and from whom I should be receiving
+my pay. The whole prison was covered by a network of lines of
+communication. And we who were in control of the system of communication,
+naturally, since we were modelled after capitalistic society, exacted
+heavy tolls from our customers. It was service for profit with a
+vengeance, though we were at times not above giving service for love.</p>
+
+<p>And all the time I was in the Pen I was making myself solid with my pal.
+He had done much for me, and in return he expected me to do as much for
+him. When we got out, we were to travel together, and, it goes without
+saying, pull off &quot;jobs&quot; together. For my pal was a criminal&mdash;oh, not a
+jewel of the first water, merely a petty criminal who would steal and rob,
+commit burglary, and, if cornered, not stop short of murder. Many a quiet
+hour we sat and talked together. He had two or three jobs in view for the
+immediate future, in which my work was cut out for me, and in which I
+joined in planning the details. I had been with and seen much of
+criminals, and my pal never dreamed that I was only fooling him, giving
+him a string thirty days long. He thought I was the real goods, liked me
+because I was not stupid, and liked me a bit, too, I think, for myself. Of
+course I had not the slightest intention of joining him in a life of
+sordid, petty crime; but I'd have been an idiot to throw away all the good
+things his friendship made possible. When one is on the hot lava of hell,
+he cannot pick and choose his path, and so it was with me in the Erie
+County Pen. I had to stay in with the &quot;push,&quot; or do hard labor on bread
+and water; and to stay in with the push I had to make good with my pal.</p>
+
+<p>Life was not monotonous in the Pen. Every day something was happening: men
+were having fits, going crazy, fighting, or the hall-men were getting
+drunk. Rover Jack, one of the ordinary hall-men, was our star &quot;oryide.&quot; He
+was a true &quot;profesh,&quot; a &quot;blowed-in-the-glass&quot; stiff, and as such received
+all kinds of latitude from the hall-men in authority. Pittsburg Joe, who
+was Second Hall-man, used to join Rover Jack in his jags; and it was a
+saying of the pair that the Erie County Pen was the only place where a man
+could get &quot;slopped&quot; and not be arrested. I never knew, but I was told that
+bromide of potassium, gained in devious ways from the dispensary, was the
+dope they used. But I do know, whatever their dope was, that they got good
+and drunk on occasion.</p>
+
+<p>Our hall was a common stews, filled with the ruck and the filth, the scum
+and dregs, of society&mdash;hereditary inefficients, degenerates, wrecks,
+lunatics, addled intelligences, epileptics, monsters, weaklings, in short,
+a very nightmare of humanity. Hence, fits flourished with us. These fits
+seemed contagious. When one man began throwing a fit, others followed his
+lead. I have seen seven men down with fits at the same time, making the
+air hideous with their cries, while as many more lunatics would be raging
+and gibbering up and down. Nothing was ever done for the men with fits
+except to throw cold water on them. It was useless to send for the medical
+student or the doctor. They were not to be bothered with such trivial and
+frequent occurrences.</p>
+
+<p>There was a young Dutch boy, about eighteen years of age, who had fits
+most frequently of all. He usually threw one every day. It was for that
+reason that we kept him on the ground floor farther down in the row of
+cells in which we lodged. After he had had a few fits in the prison-yard,
+the guards refused to be bothered with him any more, and so he remained
+locked up in his cell all day with a Cockney cell-mate, to keep him
+company. Not that the Cockney was of any use. Whenever the Dutch boy had a
+fit, the Cockney became paralyzed with terror.</p>
+
+<p>The Dutch boy could not speak a word of English. He was a farmer's boy,
+serving ninety days as punishment for having got into a scrap with some
+one. He prefaced his fits with howling. He howled like a wolf. Also, he
+took his fits standing up, which was very inconvenient for him, for his
+fits always culminated in a headlong pitch to the floor. Whenever I heard
+the long wolf-howl rising, I used to grab a broom and run to his cell. Now
+the trusties were not allowed keys to the cells, so I could not get in to
+him. He would stand up in the middle of his narrow cell, shivering
+convulsively, his eyes rolled backward till only the whites were visible,
+and howling like a lost soul. Try as I would, I could never get the
+Cockney to lend him a hand. While he stood and howled, the Cockney
+crouched and trembled in the upper bunk, his terror-stricken gaze fixed on
+that awful figure, with eyes rolled back, that howled and howled. It was
+hard on him, too, the poor devil of a Cockney. His own reason was not any
+too firmly seated, and the wonder is that he did not go mad.</p>
+
+<p>All that I could do was my best with the broom. I would thrust it through
+the bars, train it on Dutchy's chest, and wait. As the crisis approached
+he would begin swaying back and forth. I followed this swaying with the
+broom, for there was no telling when he would take that dreadful forward
+pitch. But when he did, I was there with the broom, catching him and
+easing him down. Contrive as I would, he never came down quite gently, and
+his face was usually bruised by the stone floor. Once down and writhing in
+convulsions, I'd throw a bucket of water over him. I don't know whether
+cold water was the right thing or not, but it was the custom in the Erie
+County Pen. Nothing more than that was ever done for him. He would lie
+there, wet, for an hour or so, and then crawl into his bunk. I knew better
+than to run to a guard for assistance. What was a man with a fit, anyway?</p>
+
+<p>In the adjoining cell lived a strange character&mdash;a man who was doing sixty
+days for eating swill out of Barnum's swill-barrel, or at least that was
+the way he put it. He was a badly addled creature, and, at first, very
+mild and gentle. The facts of his case were as he had stated them. He had
+strayed out to the circus ground, and, being hungry, had made his way to
+the barrel that contained the refuse from the table of the circus people.
+&quot;And it was good bread,&quot; he often assured me; &quot;and the meat was out of
+sight.&quot; A policeman had seen him and arrested him, and there he was.</p>
+
+<p>Once I passed his cell with a piece of stiff thin wire in my hand. He
+asked me for it so earnestly that I passed it through the bars to him.
+Promptly, and with no tool but his fingers, he broke it into short lengths
+and twisted them into half a dozen very creditable safety pins. He
+sharpened the points on the stone floor. Thereafter I did quite a trade in
+safety pins. I furnished the raw material and peddled the finished
+product, and he did the work. As wages, I paid him extra rations of bread,
+and once in a while a chunk of meat or a piece of soup-bone with some
+marrow inside.</p>
+
+<p>But his imprisonment told on him, and he grew violent day by day. The
+hall-men took delight in teasing him. They filled his weak brain with
+stories of a great fortune that had been left him. It was in order to rob
+him of it that he had been arrested and sent to jail. Of course, as he
+himself knew, there was no law against eating out of a barrel. Therefore
+he was wrongly imprisoned. It was a plot to deprive him of his fortune.</p>
+
+<p>The first I knew of it, I heard the hall-men laughing about the string
+they had given him. Next he held a serious conference with me, in which he
+told me of his millions and the plot to deprive him of them, and in which
+he appointed me his detective. I did my best to let him down gently,
+speaking vaguely of a mistake, and that it was another man with a similar
+name who was the rightful heir. I left him quite cooled down; but I
+couldn't keep the hall-men away from him, and they continued to string him
+worse than ever. In the end, after a most violent scene, he threw me down,
+revoked my private detectiveship, and went on strike. My trade in safety
+pins ceased. He refused to make any more safety pins, and he peppered me
+with raw material through the bars of his cell when I passed by.</p>
+
+<p>I could never make it up with him. The other hall-men told him that I was
+a detective in the employ of the conspirators. And in the meantime the
+hall-men drove him mad with their stringing. His fictitious wrongs preyed
+upon his mind, and at last he became a dangerous and homicidal lunatic.
+The guards refused to listen to his tale of stolen millions, and he
+accused them of being in the plot. One day he threw a pannikin of hot tea
+over one of them, and then his case was investigated. The warden talked
+with him a few minutes through the bars of his cell. Then he was taken
+away for examination before the doctors. He never came back, and I often
+wonder if he is dead, or if he still gibbers about his millions in some
+asylum for the insane.</p>
+
+<p>At last came the day of days, my release. It was the day of release for
+the Third Hall-man as well, and the short-timer girl I had won for him was
+waiting for him outside the wall. They went away blissfully together. My
+pal and I went out together, and together we walked down into Buffalo.
+Were we not to be together always? We begged together on the &quot;main-drag&quot;
+that day for pennies, and what we received was spent for &quot;shupers&quot; of
+beer&mdash;I don't know how they are spelled, but they are pronounced the way I
+have spelled them, and they cost three cents. I was watching my chance all
+the time for a get-away. From some bo on the drag I managed to learn what
+time a certain freight pulled out. I calculated my time accordingly. When
+the moment came, my pal and I were in a saloon. Two foaming shupers were
+before us. I'd have liked to say good-by. He had been good to me. But I
+did not dare. I went out through the rear of the saloon and jumped the
+fence. It was a swift sneak, and a few minutes later I was on board a
+freight and heading south on the Western New York and Pennsylvania
+Railroad.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Hoboes_That_Pass_in_the_Night" id="Hoboes_That_Pass_in_the_Night" /><i>Hoboes That Pass in the Night</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>In the course of my tramping I encountered hundreds of hoboes, whom I
+hailed or who hailed me, and with whom I waited at water-tanks,
+&quot;boiled-up,&quot; cooked &quot;mulligans,&quot; &quot;battered&quot; the &quot;drag&quot; or &quot;privates,&quot; and
+beat trains, and who passed and were seen never again. On the other hand,
+there were hoboes who passed and repassed with amazing frequency, and
+others, still, who passed like ghosts, close at hand, unseen, and never
+seen.</p>
+
+<p>It was one of the latter that I chased clear across Canada over three
+thousand miles of railroad, and never once did I lay eyes on him. His
+&quot;monica&quot; was Skysail Jack. I first ran into it at Montreal. Carved with a
+jack-knife was the skysail-yard of a ship. It was perfectly executed.
+Under it was &quot;Skysail Jack.&quot; Above was &quot;B.W. 9-15-94.&quot; This latter
+conveyed the information that he had passed through Montreal bound west,
+on October 15, 1894. He had one day the start of me. &quot;Sailor Jack&quot; was my
+monica at that particular time, and promptly I carved it alongside of his,
+along with the date and the information that I, too, was bound west.</p>
+
+<p>I had misfortune in getting over the next hundred miles, and eight days
+later I picked up Skysail Jack's trail three hundred miles west of Ottawa.
+There it was, carved on a water-tank, and by the date I saw that he
+likewise had met with delay. He was only two days ahead of me. I was a
+&quot;comet&quot; and &quot;tramp-royal,&quot; so was Skysail Jack; and it was up to my pride
+and reputation to catch up with him. I &quot;railroaded&quot; day and night, and I
+passed him; then turn about he passed me. Sometimes he was a day or so
+ahead, and sometimes I was. From hoboes, bound east, I got word of him
+occasionally, when he happened to be ahead; and from them I learned that
+he had become interested in Sailor Jack and was making inquiries about me.</p>
+
+<p>We'd have made a precious pair, I am sure, if we'd ever got together; but
+get together we couldn't. I kept ahead of him clear across Manitoba, but
+he led the way across Alberta, and early one bitter gray morning, at the
+end of a division just east of Kicking Horse Pass, I learned that he had
+been seen the night before between Kicking Horse Pass and Rogers' Pass. It
+was rather curious the way the information came to me. I had been riding
+all night in a &quot;side-door Pullman&quot; (box-car), and nearly dead with cold
+had crawled out at the division to beg for food. A freezing fog was
+drifting past, and I &quot;hit&quot; some firemen I found in the round-house. They
+fixed me up with the leavings from their lunch-pails, and in addition I
+got out of them nearly a quart of heavenly &quot;Java&quot; (coffee). I heated the
+latter, and, as I sat down to eat, a freight pulled in from the west. I
+saw a side-door open and a road-kid climb out. Through the drifting fog he
+limped over to me. He was stiff with cold, his lips blue. I shared my Java
+and grub with him, learned about Skysail Jack, and then learned about him.
+Behold, he was from my own town, Oakland, California, and he was a member
+of the celebrated Boo Gang&mdash;a gang with which I had affiliated at rare
+intervals. We talked fast and bolted the grub in the half-hour that
+followed. Then my freight pulled out, and I was on it, bound west on the
+trail of Skysail Jack.</p>
+
+<p>I was delayed between the passes, went two days without food, and walked
+eleven miles on the third day before I got any, and yet I succeeded in
+passing Skysail Jack along the Fraser River in British Columbia. I was
+riding &quot;passengers&quot; then and making time; but he must have been riding
+passengers, too, and with more luck or skill than I, for he got into
+Mission ahead of me.</p>
+
+<p>Now Mission was a junction, forty miles east of Vancouver. From the
+junction one could proceed south through Washington and Oregon over the
+Northern Pacific. I wondered which way Skysail Jack would go, for I
+thought I was ahead of him. As for myself I was still bound west to
+Vancouver. I proceeded to the water-tank to leave that information, and
+there, freshly carved, with that day's date upon it, was Skysail Jack's
+monica. I hurried on into Vancouver. But he was gone. He had taken ship
+immediately and was still flying west on his world-adventure. Truly,
+Skysail Jack, you were a tramp-royal, and your mate was the &quot;wind that
+tramps the world.&quot; I take off my hat to you. You were
+&quot;blowed-in-the-glass&quot; all right. A week later I, too, got my ship, and on
+board the steamship Umatilla, in the forecastle, was working my way down
+the coast to San Francisco. Skysail Jack and Sailor Jack&mdash;gee! if we'd
+ever got together.</p>
+
+<p>Water-tanks are tramp directories. Not all in idle wantonness do tramps
+carve their monicas, dates, and courses. Often and often have I met hoboes
+earnestly inquiring if I had seen anywhere such and such a &quot;stiff&quot; or his
+monica. And more than once I have been able to give the monica of recent
+date, the water-tank, and the direction in which he was then bound. And
+promptly the hobo to whom I gave the information lit out after his pal. I
+have met hoboes who, in trying to catch a pal, had pursued clear across
+the continent and back again, and were still going.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Monicas&quot; are the nom-de-rails that hoboes assume or accept when thrust
+upon them by their fellows. Leary Joe, for instance, was timid, and was so
+named by his fellows. No self-respecting hobo would select Stew Bum for
+himself. Very few tramps care to remember their pasts during which they
+ignobly worked, so monicas based upon trades are very rare, though I
+remember having met the following: Moulder Blackey, Painter Red, Chi
+Plumber, Boiler-Maker, Sailor Boy, and Printer Bo. &quot;Chi&quot; (pronounced shy),
+by the way, is the argot for &quot;Chicago.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>A favorite device of hoboes is to base their monicas on the localities
+from which they hail, as: New York Tommy, Pacific Slim, Buffalo Smithy,
+Canton Tim, Pittsburg Jack, Syracuse Shine, Troy Mickey, K.L. Bill, and
+Connecticut Jimmy. Then there was &quot;Slim Jim from Vinegar Hill, who never
+worked and never will.&quot; A &quot;shine&quot; is always a negro, so called, possibly,
+from the high lights on his countenance. Texas Shine or Toledo Shine
+convey both race and nativity.</p>
+
+<p>Among those that incorporated their race, I recollect the following:
+Frisco Sheeny, New York Irish, Michigan French, English Jack, Cockney Kid,
+and Milwaukee Dutch. Others seem to take their monicas in part from the
+color-schemes stamped upon them at birth, such as: Chi Whitey, New Jersey
+Red, Boston Blackey, Seattle Browney, and Yellow Dick and Yellow
+Belly&mdash;the last a Creole from Mississippi, who, I suspect, had his monica
+thrust upon him.</p>
+
+<p>Texas Royal, Happy Joe, Bust Connors, Burley Bo, Tornado Blackey, and
+Touch McCall used more imagination in rechristening themselves. Others,
+with less fancy, carry the names of their physical peculiarities, such as:
+Vancouver Slim, Detroit Shorty, Ohio Fatty, Long Jack, Big Jim, Little
+Joe, New York Blink, Chi Nosey, and Broken-backed Ben.</p>
+
+<p>By themselves come the road-kids, sporting an infinite variety of monicas.
+For example, the following, whom here and there I have encountered: Buck
+Kid, Blind Kid, Midget Kid, Holy Kid, Bat Kid, Swift Kid, Cookey Kid,
+Monkey Kid, Iowa Kid, Corduroy Kid, Orator Kid (who could tell how it
+happened), and Lippy Kid (who was insolent, depend upon it).</p>
+
+<p>On the water-tank at San Marcial, New Mexico, a dozen years ago, was the
+following hobo bill of fare:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="blockquot">
+(1) Main-drag fair.<br />
+(2) Bulls not hostile.<br />
+(3) Round-house good for kipping.<br />
+(4) North-bound trains no good.<br />
+(5) Privates no good.<br />
+(6) Restaurants good for cooks only.<br />
+(7) Railroad House good for night-work only.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Number one conveys the information that begging for money on the main
+street is fair; number two, that the police will not bother hoboes; number
+three, that one can sleep in the round-house. Number four, however, is
+ambiguous. The north-bound trains may be no good to beat, and they may be
+no good to beg. Number five means that the residences are not good to
+beggars, and number six means that only hoboes that have been cooks can
+get grub from the restaurants. Number seven bothers me. I cannot make out
+whether the Railroad House is a good place for any hobo to beg at night,
+or whether it is good only for hobo-cooks to beg at night, or whether any
+hobo, cook or non-cook, can lend a hand at night, helping the cooks of the
+Railroad House with their dirty work and getting something to eat in
+payment.</p>
+
+<p>But to return to the hoboes that pass in the night. I remember one I met
+in California. He was a Swede, but he had lived so long in the United
+States that one couldn't guess his nationality. He had to tell it on
+himself. In fact, he had come to the United States when no more than a
+baby. I ran into him first at the mountain town of Truckee. &quot;Which way,
+Bo?&quot; was our greeting, and &quot;Bound east&quot; was the answer each of us gave.
+Quite a bunch of &quot;stiffs&quot; tried to ride out the overland that night, and I
+lost the Swede in the shuffle. Also, I lost the overland.</p>
+
+<p>I arrived in Reno, Nevada, in a box-car that was promptly side-tracked. It
+was a Sunday morning, and after I threw my feet for breakfast, I wandered
+over to the Piute camp to watch the Indians gambling. And there stood the
+Swede, hugely interested. Of course we got together. He was the only
+acquaintance I had in that region, and I was his only acquaintance. We
+rushed together like a couple of dissatisfied hermits, and together we
+spent the day, threw our feet for dinner, and late in the afternoon tried
+to &quot;nail&quot; the same freight. But he was ditched, and I rode her out alone,
+to be ditched myself in the desert twenty miles beyond.</p>
+
+<p>Of all desolate places, the one at which I was ditched was the limit. It
+was called a flag-station, and it consisted of a shanty dumped
+inconsequentially into the sand and sagebrush. A chill wind was blowing,
+night was coming on, and the solitary telegraph operator who lived in the
+shanty was afraid of me. I knew that neither grub nor bed could I get out
+of him. It was because of his manifest fear of me that I did not believe
+him when he told me that east-bound trains never stopped there. Besides,
+hadn't I been thrown off of an east-bound train right at that very spot
+not five minutes before? He assured me that it had stopped under orders,
+and that a year might go by before another was stopped under orders. He
+advised me that it was only a dozen or fifteen miles on to Wadsworth and
+that I'd better hike. I elected to wait, however, and I had the pleasure
+of seeing two west-bound freights go by without stopping, and one
+east-bound freight. I wondered if the Swede was on the latter. It was up
+to me to hit the ties to Wadsworth, and hit them I did, much to the
+telegraph operator's relief, for I neglected to burn his shanty and murder
+him. Telegraph operators have much to be thankful for. At the end of half
+a dozen miles, I had to get off the ties and let the east-bound overland
+go by. She was going fast, but I caught sight of a dim form on the first
+&quot;blind&quot; that looked like the Swede.</p>
+
+<p>That was the last I saw of him for weary days. I hit the high places
+across those hundreds of miles of Nevada desert, riding the overlands at
+night, for speed, and in the day-time riding in box-cars and getting my
+sleep. It was early in the year, and it was cold in those upland pastures.
+Snow lay here and there on the level, all the mountains were shrouded in
+white, and at night the most miserable wind imaginable blew off from them.
+It was not a land in which to linger. And remember, gentle reader, the
+hobo goes through such a land, without shelter, without money, begging his
+way and sleeping at night without blankets. This last is something that
+can be realized only by experience.</p>
+
+<p>In the early evening I came down to the depot at Ogden. The overland of
+the Union Pacific was pulling east, and I was bent on making connections.
+Out in the tangle of tracks ahead of the engine I encountered a figure
+slouching through the gloom. It was the Swede. We shook hands like
+long-lost brothers, and discovered that our hands were gloved. &quot;Where'd ye
+glahm 'em?&quot; I asked. &quot;Out of an engine-cab,&quot; he answered; &quot;and where did
+you?&quot; &quot;They belonged to a fireman,&quot; said I; &quot;he was careless.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>We caught the blind as the overland pulled out, and mighty cold we found
+it. The way led up a narrow gorge between snow-covered mountains, and we
+shivered and shook and exchanged confidences about how we had covered the
+ground between Reno and Ogden. I had closed my eyes for only an hour or so
+the previous night, and the blind was not comfortable enough to suit me
+for a snooze. At a stop, I went forward to the engine. We had on a
+&quot;double-header&quot; (two engines) to take us over the grade.</p>
+
+<p>The pilot of the head engine, because it &quot;punched the wind,&quot; I knew would
+be too cold; so I selected the pilot of the second engine, which was
+sheltered by the first engine. I stepped on the cowcatcher and found the
+pilot occupied. In the darkness I felt out the form of a young boy. He was
+sound asleep. By squeezing, there was room for two on the pilot, and I
+made the boy budge over and crawled up beside him. It was a &quot;good&quot; night;
+the &quot;shacks&quot; (brakemen) didn't bother us, and in no time we were asleep.
+Once in a while hot cinders or heavy jolts aroused me, when I snuggled
+closer to the boy and dozed off to the coughing of the engines and the
+screeching of the wheels.</p>
+
+<p>The overland made Evanston, Wyoming, and went no farther. A wreck ahead
+blocked the line. The dead engineer had been brought in, and his body
+attested the peril of the way. A tramp, also, had been killed, but his
+body had not been brought in. I talked with the boy. He was thirteen years
+old. He had run away from his folks in some place in Oregon, and was
+heading east to his grandmother. He had a tale of cruel treatment in the
+home he had left that rang true; besides, there was no need for him to lie
+to me, a nameless hobo on the track.</p>
+
+<p>And that boy was going some, too. He couldn't cover the ground fast
+enough. When the division superintendents decided to send the overland
+back over the way it had come, then up on a cross &quot;jerk&quot; to the Oregon
+Short Line, and back along that road to tap the Union Pacific the other
+side of the wreck, that boy climbed upon the pilot and said he was going
+to stay with it. This was too much for the Swede and me. It meant
+travelling the rest of that frigid night in order to gain no more than a
+dozen miles or so. We said we'd wait till the wreck was cleared away, and
+in the meantime get a good sleep.</p>
+
+<p>Now it is no snap to strike a strange town, broke, at midnight, in cold
+weather, and find a place to sleep. The Swede hadn't a penny. My total
+assets consisted of two dimes and a nickel. From some of the town boys we
+learned that beer was five cents, and that the saloons kept open all
+night. There was our meat. Two glasses of beer would cost ten cents, there
+would be a stove and chairs, and we could sleep it out till morning. We
+headed for the lights of a saloon, walking briskly, the snow crunching
+under our feet, a chill little wind blowing through us.</p>
+
+<p>Alas, I had misunderstood the town boys. Beer was five cents in one saloon
+only in the whole burg, and we didn't strike that saloon. But the one we
+entered was all right. A blessed stove was roaring white-hot; there were
+cosey, cane-bottomed arm-chairs, and a none-too-pleasant-looking barkeeper
+who glared suspiciously at us as we came in. A man cannot spend continuous
+days and nights in his clothes, beating trains, fighting soot and
+cinders, and sleeping anywhere, and maintain a good &quot;front.&quot; Our fronts
+were decidedly against us; but what did we care? I had the price in my
+jeans.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Two beers,&quot; said I nonchalantly to the barkeeper, and while he drew them,
+the Swede and I leaned against the bar and yearned secretly for the
+arm-chairs by the stove.</p>
+
+<p>The barkeeper set the two foaming glasses before us, and with pride I
+deposited the ten cents. Now I was dead game. As soon as I learned my
+error in the price I'd have dug up another ten cents. Never mind if it did
+leave me only a nickel to my name, a stranger in a strange land. I'd have
+paid it all right. But that barkeeper never gave me a chance. As soon as
+his eyes spotted the dime I had laid down, he seized the two glasses, one
+in each hand, and dumped the beer into the sink behind the bar. At the
+same time, glaring at us malevolently, he said:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You've got scabs on your nose. You've got scabs on your nose. You've got
+scabs on your nose. See!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I hadn't either, and neither had the Swede. Our noses were all right. The
+direct bearing of his words was beyond our comprehension, but the indirect
+bearing was clear as print: he didn't like our looks, and beer was
+evidently ten cents a glass.</p>
+
+<p>I dug down and laid another dime on the bar, remarking carelessly, &quot;Oh, I
+thought this was a five-cent joint.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Your money's no good here,&quot; he answered, shoving the two dimes across the
+bar to me.</p>
+
+<p>Sadly I dropped them back into my pocket, sadly we yearned toward the
+blessed stove and the arm-chairs, and sadly we went out the door into the
+frosty night.</p>
+
+<p>But as we went out the door, the barkeeper, still glaring, called after
+us, &quot;You've got scabs on your nose, see!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I have seen much of the world since then, journeyed among strange lands
+and peoples, opened many books, sat in many lecture-halls; but to this
+day, though I have pondered long and deep, I have been unable to divine
+the meaning in the cryptic utterance of that barkeeper in Evanston,
+Wyoming. Our noses <i>were</i> all right.</p>
+
+<p>We slept that night over the boilers in an electric-lighting plant. How we
+discovered that &quot;kipping&quot; place I can't remember. We must have just headed
+for it, instinctively, as horses head for water or carrier-pigeons head
+for the home-cote. But it was a night not pleasant to remember. A dozen
+hoboes were ahead of us on top the boilers, and it was too hot for all of
+us. To complete our misery, the engineer would not let us stand around
+down below. He gave us our choice of the boilers or the outside snow.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You said you wanted to sleep, and so, damn you, sleep,&quot; said he to me,
+when, frantic and beaten out by the heat, I came down into the fire-room.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Water,&quot; I gasped, wiping the sweat from my eyes, &quot;water.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He pointed out of doors and assured me that down there somewhere in the
+blackness I'd find the river. I started for the river, got lost in the
+dark, fell into two or three drifts, gave it up, and returned half-frozen
+to the top of the boilers. When I had thawed out, I was thirstier than
+ever. Around me the hoboes were moaning, groaning, sobbing, sighing,
+gasping, panting, rolling and tossing and floundering heavily in their
+torment. We were so many lost souls toasting on a griddle in hell, and the
+engineer, Satan Incarnate, gave us the sole alternative of freezing in the
+outer cold. The Swede sat up and anathematized passionately the wanderlust
+in man that sent him tramping and suffering hardships such as that.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;When I get back to Chicago,&quot; he perorated, &quot;I'm going to get a job and
+stick to it till hell freezes over. Then I'll go tramping again.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>And, such is the irony of fate, next day, when the wreck ahead was
+cleared, the Swede and I pulled out of Evanston in the ice-boxes of an
+&quot;orange special,&quot; a fast freight laden with fruit from sunny California.
+Of course, the ice-boxes were empty on account of the cold weather, but
+that didn't make them any warmer for us. We entered them through hatchways
+in the top of the car; the boxes were constructed of galvanized iron, and
+in that biting weather were not pleasant to the touch. We lay there,
+shivered and shook, and with chattering teeth held a council wherein we
+decided that we'd stay by the ice-boxes day and night till we got out of
+the inhospitable plateau region and down into the Mississippi Valley.</p>
+
+<p>But we must eat, and we decided that at the next division we would throw
+our feet for grub and make a rush back to our ice-boxes. We arrived in the
+town of Green River late in the afternoon, but too early for supper.
+Before meal-time is the worst time for &quot;battering&quot; back-doors; but we put
+on our nerve, swung off the side-ladders as the freight pulled into the
+yards, and made a run for the houses. We were quickly separated; but we
+had agreed to meet in the ice-boxes. I had bad luck at first; but in the
+end, with a couple of &quot;hand-outs&quot; poked into my shirt, I chased for the
+train. It was pulling out and going fast. The particular refrigerator-car
+in which we were to meet had already gone by, and half a dozen cars down
+the train from it I swung on to the side-ladders, went up on top
+hurriedly, and dropped down into an ice-box.</p>
+
+<p>But a shack had seen me from the caboose, and at the next stop a few miles
+farther on, Rock Springs, the shack stuck his head into my box and said:
+&quot;Hit the grit, you son of a toad! Hit the grit!&quot; Also he grabbed me by the
+heels and dragged me out. I hit the grit all right, and the orange special
+and the Swede rolled on without me.</p>
+
+<p>Snow was beginning to fall. A cold night was coming on. After dark I
+hunted around in the railroad yards until I found an empty refrigerator
+car. In I climbed&mdash;not into the ice-boxes, but into the car itself. I
+swung the heavy doors shut, and their edges, covered with strips of
+rubber, sealed the car air-tight. The walls were thick. There was no way
+for the outside cold to get in. But the inside was just as cold as the
+outside. How to raise the temperature was the problem. But trust a
+&quot;profesh&quot; for that. Out of my pockets I dug up three or four newspapers.
+These I burned, one at a time, on the floor of the car. The smoke rose to
+the top. Not a bit of the heat could escape, and, comfortable and warm, I
+passed a beautiful night. I didn't wake up once.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning it was still snowing. While throwing my feet for breakfast,
+I missed an east-bound freight. Later in the day I nailed two other
+freights and was ditched from both of them. All afternoon no east-bound
+trains went by. The snow was falling thicker than ever, but at twilight I
+rode out on the first blind of the overland. As I swung aboard the blind
+from one side, somebody swung aboard from the other. It was the boy who
+had run away from Oregon.</p>
+
+<p>Now the first blind of a fast train in a driving snow-storm is no summer
+picnic. The wind goes right through one, strikes the front of the car, and
+comes back again. At the first stop, darkness having come on, I went
+forward and interviewed the fireman. I offered to &quot;shove&quot; coal to the end
+of his run, which was Rawlins, and my offer was accepted. My work was out
+on the tender, in the snow, breaking the lumps of coal with a sledge and
+shovelling it forward to him in the cab. But as I did not have to work all
+the time, I could come into the cab and warm up now and again.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Say,&quot; I said to the fireman, at my first breathing spell, &quot;there's a
+little kid back there on the first blind. He's pretty cold.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The cabs on the Union Pacific engines are quite spacious, and we fitted
+the kid into a warm nook in front of the high seat of the fireman, where
+the kid promptly fell asleep. We arrived at Rawlins at midnight. The snow
+was thicker than ever. Here the engine was to go into the round-house,
+being replaced by a fresh engine. As the train came to a stop, I dropped
+off the engine steps plump into the arms of a large man in a large
+overcoat. He began asking me questions, and I promptly demanded who he
+was. Just as promptly he informed me that he was the sheriff. I drew in my
+horns and listened and answered.</p>
+
+<p>He began describing the kid who was still asleep in the cab. I did some
+quick thinking. Evidently the family was on the trail of the kid, and the
+sheriff had received telegraphed instructions from Oregon. Yes, I had seen
+the kid. I had met him first in Ogden. The date tallied with the sheriff's
+information. But the kid was still behind somewhere, I explained, for he
+had been ditched from that very overland that night when it pulled out of
+Rock Springs. And all the time I was praying that the kid wouldn't wake
+up, come down out of the cab, and put the &quot;kibosh&quot; on me.</p>
+
+<p>The sheriff left me in order to interview the shacks, but before he left
+he said:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Bo, this town is no place for you. Understand? You ride this train out,
+and make no mistake about it. If I catch you after it's gone ...&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I assured him that it was not through desire that I was in his town; that
+the only reason I was there was that the train had stopped there; and that
+he wouldn't see me for smoke the way I'd get out of his darn town.</p>
+
+<p>While he went to interview the shacks, I jumped back into the cab. The kid
+was awake and rubbing his eyes. I told him the news and advised him to
+ride the engine into the round-house. To cut the story short, the kid made
+the same overland out, riding the pilot, with instructions to make an
+appeal to the fireman at the first stop for permission to ride in the
+engine. As for myself, I got ditched. The new fireman was young and not
+yet lax enough to break the rules of the Company against having tramps in
+the engine; so he turned down my offer to shove coal. I hope the kid
+succeeded with him, for all night on the pilot in that blizzard would have
+meant death.</p>
+
+<p>Strange to say, I do not at this late day remember a detail of how I was
+ditched at Rawlins. I remember watching the train as it was immediately
+swallowed up in the snow-storm, and of heading for a saloon to warm up.
+Here was light and warmth. Everything was in full blast and wide open.
+Faro, roulette, craps, and poker tables were running, and some mad
+cow-punchers were making the night merry. I had just succeeded in
+fraternizing with them and was downing my first drink at their expense,
+when a heavy hand descended on my shoulder. I looked around and sighed. It
+was the sheriff.</p>
+
+<p>Without a word he led me out into the snow.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;There's an orange special down there in the yards,&quot; said he.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;It's a damn cold night,&quot; said I.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;It pulls out in ten minutes,&quot; said he.</p>
+
+<p>That was all. There was no discussion. And when that orange special pulled
+out, I was in the ice-boxes. I thought my feet would freeze before
+morning, and the last twenty miles into Laramie I stood upright in the
+hatchway and danced up and down. The snow was too thick for the shacks to
+see me, and I didn't care if they did.</p>
+
+<p>My quarter of a dollar bought me a hot breakfast at Laramie, and
+immediately afterward I was on board the blind baggage of an overland that
+was climbing to the pass through the backbone of the Rockies. One does not
+ride blind baggages in the daytime; but in this blizzard at the top of
+the Rocky Mountains I doubted if the shacks would have the heart to put me
+off. And they didn't. They made a practice of coming forward at every stop
+to see if I was frozen yet.</p>
+
+<p>At Ames' Monument, at the summit of the Rockies,&mdash;I forget the
+altitude,&mdash;the shack came forward for the last time.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Say, Bo,&quot; he said, &quot;you see that freight side-tracked over there to let
+us go by?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I saw. It was on the next track, six feet away. A few feet more in that
+storm and I could not have seen it.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Well, the 'after-push' of Kelly's Army is in one of them cars. They've
+got two feet of straw under them, and there's so many of them that they
+keep the car warm.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>His advice was good, and I followed it, prepared, however, if it was a
+&quot;con game&quot; the shack had given me, to take the blind as the overland
+pulled out. But it was straight goods. I found the car&mdash;a big refrigerator
+car with the leeward door wide open for ventilation. Up I climbed and in.
+I stepped on a man's leg, next on some other man's arm. The light was dim,
+and all I could make out was arms and legs and bodies inextricably
+confused. Never was there such a tangle of humanity. They were all lying
+in the straw, and over, and under, and around one another. Eighty-four
+husky hoboes take up a lot of room when they are stretched out. The men I
+stepped on were resentful. Their bodies heaved under me like the waves of
+the sea, and imparted an involuntary forward movement to me. I could not
+find any straw to step upon, so I stepped upon more men. The resentment
+increased, so did my forward movement. I lost my footing and sat down with
+sharp abruptness. Unfortunately, it was on a man's head. The next moment
+he had risen on his hands and knees in wrath, and I was flying through the
+air. What goes up must come down, and I came down on another man's head.</p>
+
+<p>What happened after that is very vague in my memory. It was like going
+through a threshing-machine. I was bandied about from one end of the car
+to the other. Those eighty-four hoboes winnowed me out till what little
+was left of me, by some miracle, found a bit of straw to rest upon. I was
+initiated, and into a jolly crowd. All the rest of that day we rode
+through the blizzard, and to while the time away it was decided that each
+man was to tell a story. It was stipulated that each story must be a good
+one, and, furthermore, that it must be a story no one had ever heard
+before. The penalty for failure was the threshing-machine. Nobody failed.
+And I want to say right here that never in my life have I sat at so
+marvellous a story-telling debauch. Here were eighty-four men from all the
+world&mdash;I made eighty-five; and each man told a masterpiece. It had to be,
+for it was either masterpiece or threshing-machine.</p>
+
+<p>Late in the afternoon we arrived in Cheyenne. The blizzard was at its
+height, and though the last meal of all of us had been breakfast, no man
+cared to throw his feet for supper. All night we rolled on through the
+storm, and next day found us down on the sweet plains of Nebraska and
+still rolling. We were out of the storm and the mountains. The blessed sun
+was shining over a smiling land, and we had eaten nothing for twenty-four
+hours. We found out that the freight would arrive about noon at a town, if
+I remember right, that was called Grand Island.</p>
+
+<p>We took up a collection and sent a telegram to the authorities of that
+town. The text of the message was that eighty-five healthy, hungry hoboes
+would arrive about noon and that it would be a good idea to have dinner
+ready for them. The authorities of Grand Island had two courses open to
+them. They could feed us, or they could throw us in jail. In the latter
+event they'd have to feed us anyway, and they decided wisely that one meal
+would be the cheaper way.</p>
+
+<p>When the freight rolled into Grand Island at noon, we were sitting on the
+tops of the cars and dangling our legs in the sunshine. All the police in
+the burg were on the reception committee. They marched us in squads to the
+various hotels and restaurants, where dinners were spread for us. We had
+been thirty-six hours without food, and we didn't have to be taught what
+to do. After that we were marched back to the railroad station. The police
+had thoughtfully compelled the freight to wait for us. She pulled out
+slowly, and the eighty-five of us, strung out along the track, swarmed up
+the side-ladders. We &quot;captured&quot; the train.</p>
+
+<p>We had no supper that evening&mdash;at least the &quot;push&quot; didn't, but I did. Just
+at supper time, as the freight was pulling out of a small town, a man
+climbed into the car where I was playing pedro with three other stiffs.
+The man's shirt was bulging suspiciously. In his hand he carried a
+battered quart-measure from which arose steam. I smelled &quot;Java.&quot; I turned
+my cards over to one of the stiffs who was looking on, and excused myself.
+Then, in the other end of the car, pursued by envious glances, I sat down
+with the man who had climbed aboard and shared his &quot;Java&quot; and the
+hand-outs that had bulged his shirt. It was the Swede.</p>
+
+<p>At about ten o'clock in the evening, we arrived at Omaha.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Let's shake the push,&quot; said the Swede to me.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Sure,&quot; said I.</p>
+
+<p>As the freight pulled into Omaha, we made ready to do so. But the people
+of Omaha were also ready. The Swede and I hung upon the side-ladders,
+ready to drop off. But the freight did not stop. Furthermore, long rows of
+policemen, their brass buttons and stars glittering in the electric
+lights, were lined up on each side of the track. The Swede and I knew what
+would happen to us if we ever dropped off into their arms. We stuck by the
+side-ladders, and the train rolled on across the Missouri River to Council
+Bluffs.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;General&quot; Kelly, with an army of two thousand hoboes, lay in camp at
+Chautauqua Park, several miles away. The after-push we were with was
+General Kelly's rear-guard, and, detraining at Council Bluffs, it started
+to march to camp. The night had turned cold, and heavy wind-squalls,
+accompanied by rain, were chilling and wetting us. Many police were
+guarding us and herding us to the camp. The Swede and I watched our chance
+and made a successful get-away.</p>
+
+<p>The rain began coming down in torrents, and in the darkness, unable to see
+our hands in front of our faces, like a pair of blind men we fumbled about
+for shelter. Our instinct served us, for in no time we stumbled upon a
+saloon&mdash;not a saloon that was open and doing business, not merely a saloon
+that was closed for the night, and not even a saloon with a permanent
+address, but a saloon propped up on big timbers, with rollers underneath,
+that was being moved from somewhere to somewhere. The doors were locked. A
+squall of wind and rain drove down upon us. We did not hesitate. Smash
+went the door, and in we went.</p>
+
+<p>I have made some tough camps in my time, &quot;carried the banner&quot; in infernal
+metropolises, bedded in pools of water, slept in the snow under two
+blankets when the spirit thermometer registered seventy-four degrees below
+zero (which is a mere trifle of one hundred and six degrees of frost); but
+I want to say right here that never did I make a tougher camp, pass a more
+miserable night, than that night I passed with the Swede in the itinerant
+saloon at Council Bluffs. In the first place, the building, perched up as
+it was in the air, had exposed a multitude of openings in the floor
+through which the wind whistled. In the second place, the bar was empty;
+there was no bottled fire-water with which we could warm ourselves and
+forget our misery. We had no blankets, and in our wet clothes, wet to the
+skin, we tried to sleep. I rolled under the bar, and the Swede rolled
+under the table. The holes and crevices in the floor made it impossible,
+and at the end of half an hour I crawled up on top the bar. A little later
+the Swede crawled up on top his table.</p>
+
+<p>And there we shivered and prayed for daylight. I know, for one, that I
+shivered until I could shiver no more, till the shivering muscles
+exhausted themselves and merely ached horribly. The Swede moaned and
+groaned, and every little while, through chattering teeth, he muttered,
+&quot;Never again; never again.&quot; He muttered this phrase repeatedly,
+ceaselessly, a thousand times; and when he dozed, he went on muttering it
+in his sleep.</p>
+
+<p>At the first gray of dawn we left our house of pain, and outside, found
+ourselves in a mist, dense and chill. We stumbled on till we came to the
+railroad track. I was going back to Omaha to throw my feet for breakfast;
+my companion was going on to Chicago. The moment for parting had come. Our
+palsied hands went out to each other. We were both shivering. When we
+tried to speak, our teeth chattered us back into silence. We stood alone,
+shut off from the world; all that we could see was a short length of
+railroad track, both ends of which were lost in the driving mist. We
+stared dumbly at each other, our clasped hands shaking sympathetically.
+The Swede's face was blue with the cold, and I know mine must have been.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Never again what?&quot; I managed to articulate.</p>
+
+<p>Speech strove for utterance in the Swede's throat; then faint and
+distant, in a thin whisper from the very bottom of his frozen soul, came
+the words:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Never again a hobo.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He paused, and, as he went on again, his voice gathered strength and
+huskiness as it affirmed his will.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Never again a hobo. I'm going to get a job. You'd better do the same.
+Nights like this make rheumatism.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He wrung my hand.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Good-by, Bo,&quot; said he.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Good-by, Bo,&quot; said I.</p>
+
+<p>The next we were swallowed up from each other by the mist. It was our
+final passing. But here's to you, Mr. Swede, wherever you are. I hope you
+got that job.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Road_Kids_and_Gay_Cats" id="Road_Kids_and_Gay_Cats" /><i>Road-Kids and Gay-Cats</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>Every once in a while, in newspapers, magazines, and biographical
+dictionaries, I run upon sketches of my life, wherein, delicately phrased,
+I learn that it was in order to study sociology that I became a tramp.
+This is very nice and thoughtful of the biographers, but it is inaccurate.
+I became a tramp&mdash;well, because of the life that was in me, of the
+wanderlust in my blood that would not let me rest. Sociology was merely
+incidental; it came afterward, in the same manner that a wet skin follows
+a ducking. I went on &quot;The Road&quot; because I couldn't keep away from it;
+because I hadn't the price of the railroad fare in my jeans; because I was
+so made that I couldn't work all my life on &quot;one same shift&quot;;
+because&mdash;well, just because it was easier to than not to.</p>
+
+<p>It happened in my own town, in Oakland, when I was sixteen. At that time I
+had attained a dizzy reputation in my chosen circle of adventurers, by
+whom I was known as the Prince of the Oyster Pirates. It is true, those
+immediately outside my circle, such as honest bay-sailors, longshoremen,
+yachtsmen, and the legal owners of the oysters, called me &quot;tough,&quot;
+&quot;hoodlum,&quot; &quot;smoudge,&quot; &quot;thief,&quot; &quot;robber,&quot; and various other not nice
+things&mdash;all of which was complimentary and but served to increase the
+dizziness of the high place in which I sat. At that time I had not read
+&quot;Paradise Lost,&quot; and later, when I read Milton's &quot;Better to reign in hell
+than serve in heaven,&quot; I was fully convinced that great minds run in the
+same channels.</p>
+
+<p>It was at this time that the fortuitous concatenation of events sent me
+upon my first adventure on The Road. It happened that there was nothing
+doing in oysters just then; that at Benicia, forty miles away, I had some
+blankets I wanted to get; and that at Port Costa, several miles from
+Benicia, a stolen boat lay at anchor in charge of the constable. Now this
+boat was owned by a friend of mine, by name Dinny McCrea. It had been
+stolen and left at Port Costa by Whiskey Bob, another friend of mine.
+(Poor Whiskey Bob! Only last winter his body was picked up on the beach
+shot full of holes by nobody knows whom.) I had come down from &quot;up river&quot;
+some time before, and reported to Dinny McCrea the whereabouts of his
+boat; and Dinny McCrea had promptly offered ten dollars to me if I should
+bring it down to Oakland to him.</p>
+
+<p>Time was heavy on my hands. I sat on the dock and talked it over with
+Nickey the Greek, another idle oyster pirate. &quot;Let's go,&quot; said I, and
+Nickey was willing. He was &quot;broke.&quot; I possessed fifty cents and a small
+skiff. The former I invested and loaded into the latter in the form of
+crackers, canned corned beef, and a ten-cent bottle of French mustard. (We
+were keen on French mustard in those days.) Then, late in the afternoon,
+we hoisted our small spritsail and started. We sailed all night, and next
+morning, on the first of a glorious flood-tide, a fair wind behind us, we
+came booming up the Carquinez Straits to Port Costa. There lay the stolen
+boat, not twenty-five feet from the wharf. We ran alongside and doused our
+little spritsail. I sent Nickey forward to lift the anchor, while I began
+casting off the gaskets.</p>
+
+<p>A man ran out on the wharf and hailed us. It was the constable. It
+suddenly came to me that I had neglected to get a written authorization
+from Dinny McCrea to take possession of his boat. Also, I knew that
+constable wanted to charge at least twenty-five dollars in fees for
+capturing the boat from Whiskey Bob and subsequently taking care of it.
+And my last fifty cents had been blown in for corned beef and French
+mustard, and the reward was only ten dollars anyway. I shot a glance
+forward to Nickey. He had the anchor up-and-down and was straining at it.
+&quot;Break her out,&quot; I whispered to him, and turned and shouted back to the
+constable. The result was that he and I were talking at the same time, our
+spoken thoughts colliding in mid-air and making gibberish.</p>
+
+<p>The constable grew more imperative, and perforce I had to listen. Nickey
+was heaving on the anchor till I thought he'd burst a blood-vessel. When
+the constable got done with his threats and warnings, I asked him who he
+was. The time he lost in telling me enabled Nickey to break out the
+anchor. I was doing some quick calculating. At the feet of the constable a
+ladder ran down the dock to the water, and to the ladder was moored a
+skiff. The oars were in it. But it was padlocked. I gambled everything on
+that padlock. I felt the breeze on my cheek, saw the surge of the tide,
+looked at the remaining gaskets that confined the sail, ran my eyes up the
+halyards to the blocks and knew that all was clear, and then threw off all
+dissimulation.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;In with her!&quot; I shouted to Nickey, and sprang to the gaskets, casting
+them loose and thanking my stars that Whiskey Bob had tied them in
+square-knots instead of &quot;grannies.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The constable had slid down the ladder and was fumbling with a key at the
+padlock. The anchor came aboard and the last gasket was loosed at the same
+instant that the constable freed the skiff and jumped to the oars.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Peak-halyards!&quot; I commanded my crew, at the same time swinging on to the
+throat-halyards. Up came the sail on the run. I belayed and ran aft to the
+tiller.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Stretch her!&quot; I shouted to Nickey at the peak. The constable was just
+reaching for our stern. A puff of wind caught us, and we shot away. It was
+great. If I'd had a black flag, I know I'd have run it up in triumph. The
+constable stood up in the skiff, and paled the glory of the day with the
+vividness of his language. Also, he wailed for a gun. You see, that was
+another gamble we had taken.</p>
+
+<p>Anyway, we weren't stealing the boat. It wasn't the constable's. We were
+merely stealing his fees, which was his particular form of graft. And we
+weren't stealing the fees for ourselves, either; we were stealing them for
+my friend, Dinny McCrea.</p>
+
+<p>Benicia was made in a few minutes, and a few minutes later my blankets
+were aboard. I shifted the boat down to the far end of Steamboat Wharf,
+from which point of vantage we could see anybody coming after us. There
+was no telling. Maybe the Port Costa constable would telephone to the
+Benicia constable. Nickey and I held a council of war. We lay on deck in
+the warm sun, the fresh breeze on our cheeks, the flood-tide rippling and
+swirling past. It was impossible to start back to Oakland till afternoon,
+when the ebb would begin to run. But we figured that the constable would
+have an eye out on the Carquinez Straits when the ebb started, and that
+nothing remained for us but to wait for the following ebb, at two o'clock
+next morning, when we could slip by Cerberus in the darkness.</p>
+
+<p>So we lay on deck, smoked cigarettes, and were glad that we were alive. I
+spat over the side and gauged the speed of the current.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;With this wind, we could run this flood clear to Rio Vista,&quot; I said.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;And it's fruit-time on the river,&quot; said Nickey.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;And low water on the river,&quot; said I. &quot;It's the best time of the year to
+make Sacramento.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>We sat up and looked at each other. The glorious west wind was pouring
+over us like wine. We both spat over the side and gauged the current. Now
+I contend that it was all the fault of that flood-tide and fair wind. They
+appealed to our sailor instinct. If it had not been for them, the whole
+chain of events that was to put me upon The Road would have broken down.</p>
+
+<p>We said no word, but cast off our moorings and hoisted sail. Our
+adventures up the Sacramento River are no part of this narrative. We
+subsequently made the city of Sacramento and tied up at a wharf. The water
+was fine, and we spent most of our time in swimming. On the sand-bar above
+the railroad bridge we fell in with a bunch of boys likewise in swimming.
+Between swims we lay on the bank and talked. They talked differently from
+the fellows I had been used to herding with. It was a new vernacular. They
+were road-kids, and with every word they uttered the lure of The Road laid
+hold of me more imperiously.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;When I was down in Alabama,&quot; one kid would begin; or, another, &quot;Coming up
+on the C. &amp; A. from K.C.&quot;; whereat, a third kid, &quot;On the C. &amp; A. there
+ain't no steps to the 'blinds.'&quot; And I would lie silently in the sand and
+listen. &quot;It was at a little town in Ohio on the Lake Shore and Michigan
+Southern,&quot; a kid would start; and another, &quot;Ever ride the Cannonball on
+the Wabash?&quot;; and yet another, &quot;Nope, but I've been on the White Mail out
+of Chicago.&quot; &quot;Talk about railroadin'&mdash;wait till you hit the Pennsylvania,
+four tracks, no water tanks, take water on the fly, that's goin' some.&quot;
+&quot;The Northern Pacific's a bad road now.&quot; &quot;Salinas is on the 'hog,' the
+'bulls' is 'horstile.'&quot; &quot;I got 'pinched' at El Paso, along with Moke Kid.&quot;
+&quot;Talkin' of 'poke-outs,' wait till you hit the French country out of
+Montreal&mdash;not a word of English&mdash;you say, 'Mongee, Madame, mongee, no
+spika da French,' an' rub your stomach an' look hungry, an' she gives you
+a slice of sow-belly an' a chunk of dry 'punk.'&quot;</p>
+
+<p>And I continued to lie in the sand and listen. These wanderers made my
+oyster-piracy look like thirty cents. A new world was calling to me in
+every word that was spoken&mdash;a world of rods and gunnels, blind baggages
+and &quot;side-door Pullmans,&quot; &quot;bulls&quot; and &quot;shacks,&quot; &quot;floppings&quot; and
+&quot;chewin's,&quot; &quot;pinches&quot; and &quot;get-aways,&quot; &quot;strong arms&quot; and &quot;bindle-stiffs,&quot;
+&quot;punks&quot; and &quot;profesh.&quot; And it all spelled Adventure. Very well; I would
+tackle this new world. I &quot;lined&quot; myself up alongside those road-kids. I
+was just as strong as any of them, just as quick, just as nervy, and my
+brain was just as good.</p>
+
+<p>After the swim, as evening came on, they dressed and went up town. I went
+along. The kids began &quot;battering&quot; the &quot;main-stem&quot; for &quot;light pieces,&quot; or,
+in other words, begging for money on the main street. I had never begged
+in my life, and this was the hardest thing for me to stomach when I first
+went on The Road. I had absurd notions about begging. My philosophy, up to
+that time, was that it was finer to steal than to beg; and that robbery
+was finer still because the risk and the penalty were proportionately
+greater. As an oyster pirate I had already earned convictions at the hands
+of justice, which, if I had tried to serve them, would have required a
+thousand years in state's prison. To rob was manly; to beg was sordid and
+despicable. But I developed in the days to come all right, all right, till
+I came to look upon begging as a joyous prank, a game of wits, a
+nerve-exerciser.</p>
+
+<p>That first night, however, I couldn't rise to it; and the result was that
+when the kids were ready to go to a restaurant and eat, I wasn't. I was
+broke. Meeny Kid, I think it was, gave me the price, and we all ate
+together. But while I ate, I meditated. The receiver, it was said, was as
+bad as the thief; Meeny Kid had done the begging, and I was profiting by
+it. I decided that the receiver was a whole lot worse than the thief, and
+that it shouldn't happen again. And it didn't. I turned out next day and
+threw my feet as well as the next one.</p>
+
+<p>Nickey the Greek's ambition didn't run to The Road. He was not a success
+at throwing his feet, and he stowed away one night on a barge and went
+down river to San Francisco. I met him, only a week ago, at a pugilistic
+carnival. He has progressed. He sat in a place of honor at the ring-side.
+He is now a manager of prize-fighters and proud of it. In fact, in a small
+way, in local sportdom, he is quite a shining light.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;No kid is a road-kid until he has gone over 'the hill'&quot;&mdash;such was the law
+of The Road I heard expounded in Sacramento. All right, I'd go over the
+hill and matriculate. &quot;The hill,&quot; by the way, was the Sierra Nevadas. The
+whole gang was going over the hill on a jaunt, and of course I'd go along.
+It was French Kid's first adventure on The Road. He had just run away from
+his people in San Francisco. It was up to him and me to deliver the goods.
+In passing, I may remark that my old title of &quot;Prince&quot; had vanished. I had
+received my &quot;monica.&quot; I was now &quot;Sailor Kid,&quot; later to be known as
+&quot;'Frisco Kid,&quot; when I had put the Rockies between me and my native state.</p>
+
+<p>At 10.20 P.M. the Central Pacific overland pulled out of the depot at
+Sacramento for the East&mdash;that particular item of time-table is indelibly
+engraved on my memory. There were about a dozen in our gang, and we strung
+out in the darkness ahead of the train ready to take her out. All the
+local road-kids that we knew came down to see us off&mdash;also, to &quot;ditch&quot; us
+if they could. That was their idea of a joke, and there were only about
+forty of them to carry it out. Their ring-leader was a crackerjack
+road-kid named Bob. Sacramento was his home town, but he'd hit The Road
+pretty well everywhere over the whole country. He took French Kid and me
+aside and gave us advice something like this: &quot;We're goin' to try an'
+ditch your bunch, see? Youse two are weak. The rest of the push can take
+care of itself. So, as soon as youse two nail a blind, deck her. An' stay
+on the decks till youse pass Roseville Junction, at which burg the
+constables are horstile, sloughin' in everybody on sight.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The engine whistled and the overland pulled out. There were three blinds
+on her&mdash;room for all of us. The dozen of us who were trying to make her
+out would have preferred to slip aboard quietly; but our forty friends
+crowded on with the most amazing and shameless publicity and
+advertisement. Following Bob's advice, I immediately &quot;decked her,&quot; that
+is, climbed up on top of the roof of one of the mail-cars. There I lay
+down, my heart jumping a few extra beats, and listened to the fun. The
+whole train crew was forward, and the ditching went on fast and furious.
+After the train had run half a mile, it stopped, and the crew came forward
+again and ditched the survivors. I, alone, had made the train out.</p>
+
+<p>Back at the depot, about him two or three of the push that had witnessed
+the accident, lay French Kid with both legs off. French Kid had slipped or
+stumbled&mdash;that was all, and the wheels had done the rest. Such was my
+initiation to The Road. It was two years afterward when I next saw French
+Kid and examined his &quot;stumps.&quot; This was an act of courtesy. &quot;Cripples&quot;
+always like to have their stumps examined. One of the entertaining sights
+on The Road is to witness the meeting of two cripples. Their common
+disability is a fruitful source of conversation; and they tell how it
+happened, describe what they know of the amputation, pass critical
+judgment on their own and each other's surgeons, and wind up by
+withdrawing to one side, taking off bandages and wrappings, and comparing
+stumps.</p>
+
+<p>But it was not until several days later, over in Nevada, when the push
+caught up with me, that I learned of French Kid's accident. The push
+itself arrived in bad condition. It had gone through a train-wreck in the
+snow-sheds; Happy Joe was on crutches with two mashed legs, and the rest
+were nursing skins and bruises.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime, I lay on the roof of the mail-car, trying to remember
+whether Roseville Junction, against which burg Bob had warned me, was the
+first stop or the second stop. To make sure, I delayed descending to the
+platform of the blind until after the second stop. And then I didn't
+descend. I was new to the game, and I felt safer where I was. But I never
+told the push that I held down the decks the whole night, clear across the
+Sierras, through snow-sheds and tunnels, and down to Truckee on the other
+side, where I arrived at seven in the morning. Such a thing was
+disgraceful, and I'd have been a common laughing-stock. This is the first
+time I have confessed the truth about that first ride over the hill. As
+for the push, it decided that I was all right, and when I came back over
+the hill to Sacramento, I was a full-fledged road-kid.</p>
+
+<p>Yet I had much to learn. Bob was my mentor, and he was all right. I
+remember one evening (it was fair-time in Sacramento, and we were knocking
+about and having a good time) when I lost my hat in a fight. There was I
+bare-headed in the street, and it was Bob to the rescue. He took me to one
+side from the push and told me what to do. I was a bit timid of his
+advice. I had just come out of jail, where I had been three days, and I
+knew that if the police &quot;pinched&quot; me again, I'd get good and &quot;soaked.&quot; On
+the other hand, I couldn't show the white feather. I'd been over the hill,
+I was running full-fledged with the push, and it was up to me to deliver
+the goods. So I accepted Bob's advice, and he came along with me to see
+that I did it up brown.</p>
+
+<p>We took our position on K Street, on the corner, I think, of Fifth. It was
+early in the evening and the street was crowded. Bob studied the head-gear
+of every Chinaman that passed. I used to wonder how the road-kids all
+managed to wear &quot;five-dollar Stetson stiff-rims,&quot; and now I knew. They got
+them, the way I was going to get mine, from the Chinese. I was
+nervous&mdash;there were so many people about; but Bob was cool as an iceberg.
+Several times, when I started forward toward a Chinaman, all nerved and
+keyed up, Bob dragged me back. He wanted me to get a good hat, and one
+that fitted. Now a hat came by that was the right size but not new; and,
+after a dozen impossible hats, along would come one that was new but not
+the right size. And when one did come by that was new and the right size,
+the rim was too large or not large enough. My, Bob was finicky. I was so
+wrought up that I'd have snatched any kind of a head-covering.</p>
+
+<p>At last came the hat, the one hat in Sacramento for me. I knew it was a
+winner as soon as I looked at it. I glanced at Bob. He sent a sweeping
+look-about for police, then nodded his head. I lifted the hat from the
+Chinaman's head and pulled it down on my own. It was a perfect fit. Then I
+started. I heard Bob crying out, and I caught a glimpse of him blocking
+the irate Mongolian and tripping him up. I ran on. I turned up the next
+corner, and around the next. This street was not so crowded as K, and I
+walked along in quietude, catching my breath and congratulating myself
+upon my hat and my get-away.</p>
+
+<p>And then, suddenly, around the corner at my back, came the bare-headed
+Chinaman. With him were a couple more Chinamen, and at their heels were
+half a dozen men and boys. I sprinted to the next corner, crossed the
+street, and rounded the following corner. I decided that I had surely
+played him out, and I dropped into a walk again. But around the corner at
+my heels came that persistent Mongolian. It was the old story of the hare
+and the tortoise. He could not run so fast as I, but he stayed with it,
+plodding along at a shambling and deceptive trot, and wasting much good
+breath in noisy imprecations. He called all Sacramento to witness the
+dishonor that had been done him, and a goodly portion of Sacramento heard
+and flocked at his heels. And I ran on like the hare, and ever that
+persistent Mongolian, with the increasing rabble, overhauled me. But
+finally, when a policeman had joined his following, I let out all my
+links. I twisted and turned, and I swear I ran at least twenty blocks on
+the straight away. And I never saw that Chinaman again. The hat was a
+dandy, a brand-new Stetson, just out of the shop, and it was the envy of
+the whole push. Furthermore, it was the symbol that I had delivered the
+goods. I wore it for over a year.</p>
+
+<p>Road-kids are nice little chaps&mdash;when you get them alone and they are
+telling you &quot;how it happened&quot;; but take my word for it, watch out for them
+when they run in pack. Then they are wolves, and like wolves they are
+capable of dragging down the strongest man. At such times they are not
+cowardly. They will fling themselves upon a man and hold on with every
+ounce of strength in their wiry bodies, till he is thrown and helpless.
+More than once have I seen them do it, and I know whereof I speak. Their
+motive is usually robbery. And watch out for the &quot;strong arm.&quot; Every kid
+in the push I travelled with was expert at it. Even French Kid mastered it
+before he lost his legs.</p>
+
+<p>I have strong upon me now a vision of what I once saw in &quot;The Willows.&quot;
+The Willows was a clump of trees in a waste piece of land near the railway
+depot and not more than five minutes walk from the heart of Sacramento.
+It is night-time and the scene is illumined by the thin light of stars. I
+see a husky laborer in the midst of a pack of road-kids. He is infuriated
+and cursing them, not a bit afraid, confident of his own strength. He
+weighs about one hundred and eighty pounds, and his muscles are hard; but
+he doesn't know what he is up against. The kids are snarling. It is not
+pretty. They make a rush from all sides, and he lashes out and whirls.
+Barber Kid is standing beside me. As the man whirls, Barber Kid leaps
+forward and does the trick. Into the man's back goes his knee; around the
+man's neck, from behind, passes his right hand, the bone of the wrist
+pressing against the jugular vein. Barber Kid throws his whole weight
+backward. It is a powerful leverage. Besides, the man's wind has been shut
+off. It is the strong arm.</p>
+
+<p>The man resists, but he is already practically helpless. The road-kids are
+upon him from every side, clinging to arms and legs and body, and like a
+wolf at the throat of a moose Barber Kid hangs on and drags backward. Over
+the man goes, and down under the heap. Barber Kid changes the position of
+his own body, but never lets go. While some of the kids are &quot;going
+through&quot; the victim, others are holding his legs so that he cannot kick
+and thresh about. They improve the opportunity by taking off the man's
+shoes. As for him, he has given in. He is beaten. Also, what of the strong
+arm at his throat, he is short of wind. He is making ugly choking noises,
+and the kids hurry. They really don't want to kill him. All is done. At a
+word all holds are released at once, and the kids scatter, one of them
+lugging the shoes&mdash;he knows where he can get half a dollar for them. The
+man sits up and looks about him, dazed and helpless. Even if he wanted to,
+barefooted pursuit in the darkness would be hopeless. I linger a moment
+and watch him. He is feeling at his throat, making dry, hawking noises,
+and jerking his head in a quaint way as though to assure himself that the
+neck is not dislocated. Then I slip away to join the push, and see that
+man no more&mdash;though I shall always see him, sitting there in the
+starlight, somewhat dazed, a bit frightened, greatly dishevelled, and
+making quaint jerking movements of head and neck.</p>
+
+<p>Drunken men are the especial prey of the road-kids. Robbing a drunken man
+they call &quot;rolling a stiff&quot;; and wherever they are, they are on the
+constant lookout for drunks. The drunk is their particular meat, as the
+fly is the particular meat of the spider. The rolling of a stiff is
+ofttimes an amusing sight, especially when the stiff is helpless and when
+interference is unlikely. At the first swoop the stiff's money and
+jewellery go. Then the kids sit around their victim in a sort of pow-wow.
+A kid generates a fancy for the stiff's necktie. Off it comes. Another kid
+is after underclothes. Off they come, and a knife quickly abbreviates arms
+and legs. Friendly hoboes may be called in to take the coat and trousers,
+which are too large for the kids. And in the end they depart, leaving
+beside the stiff the heap of their discarded rags.</p>
+
+<p>Another vision comes to me. It is a dark night. My push is coming along
+the sidewalk in the suburbs. Ahead of us, under an electric light, a man
+crosses the street diagonally. There is something tentative and desultory
+in his walk. The kids scent the game on the instant. The man is drunk. He
+blunders across the opposite sidewalk and is lost in the darkness as he
+takes a short-cut through a vacant lot. No hunting cry is raised, but the
+pack flings itself forward in quick pursuit. In the middle of the vacant
+lot it comes upon him. But what is this?&mdash;snarling and strange forms,
+small and dim and menacing, are between the pack and its prey. It is
+another pack of road-kids, and in the hostile pause we learn that it is
+their meat, that they have been trailing it a dozen blocks and more and
+that we are butting in. But it is the world primeval. These wolves are
+baby wolves. (As a matter of fact, I don't think one of them was over
+twelve or thirteen years of age. I met some of them afterward, and learned
+that they had just arrived that day over the hill, and that they hailed
+from Denver and Salt Lake City.) Our pack flings forward. The baby wolves
+squeal and screech and fight like little demons. All about the drunken man
+rages the struggle for the possession of him. Down he goes in the thick of
+it, and the combat rages over his body after the fashion of the Greeks and
+Trojans over the body and armor of a fallen hero. Amid cries and tears and
+wailings the baby wolves are dispossessed, and my pack rolls the stiff.
+But always I remember the poor stiff and his befuddled amazement at the
+abrupt eruption of battle in the vacant lot. I see him now, dim in the
+darkness, titubating in stupid wonder, good-naturedly essaying the role of
+peacemaker in that multitudinous scrap the significance of which he did
+not understand, and the really hurt expression on his face when he,
+unoffending he, was clutched at by many hands and dragged down in the
+thick of the press.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Bindle-stiffs&quot; are favorite prey of the road-kids. A bindle-stiff is a
+working tramp. He takes his name from the roll of blankets he carries,
+which is known as a &quot;bindle.&quot; Because he does work, a bindle-stiff is
+expected usually to have some small change about him, and it is after that
+small change that the road-kids go. The best hunting-ground for
+bindle-stiffs is in the sheds, barns, lumber-yards, railroad-yards, etc.,
+on the edges of a city, and the time for hunting is the night, when the
+bindle-stiff seeks these places to roll up in his blankets and sleep.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Gay-cats&quot; also come to grief at the hands of the road-kid. In more
+familiar parlance, gay-cats are short-horns, <i>chechaquos</i>, new chums, or
+tenderfeet. A gay-cat is a newcomer on The Road who is man-grown, or, at
+least, youth-grown. A boy on The Road, on the other hand, no matter how
+green he is, is never a gay-cat; he is a road-kid or a &quot;punk,&quot; and if he
+travels with a &quot;profesh,&quot; he is known possessively as a &quot;prushun.&quot; I was
+never a prushun, for I did not take kindly to possession. I was first a
+road-kid and then a profesh. Because I started in young, I practically
+skipped my gay-cat apprenticeship. For a short period, during the time I
+was exchanging my 'Frisco Kid monica for that of Sailor Jack, I labored
+under the suspicion of being a gay-cat. But closer acquaintance on the
+part of those that suspected me quickly disabused their minds, and in a
+short time I acquired the unmistakable airs and ear-marks of the
+blowed-in-the-glass profesh. And be it known, here and now, that the
+profesh are the aristocracy of The Road. They are the lords and masters,
+the aggressive men, the primordial noblemen, the <i>blond beasts</i> so beloved
+of Nietzsche.</p>
+
+<p>When I came back over the hill from Nevada, I found that some river pirate
+had stolen Dinny McCrea's boat. (A funny thing at this day is that I
+cannot remember what became of the skiff in which Nickey the Greek and I
+sailed from Oakland to Port Costa. I know that the constable didn't get
+it, and I know that it didn't go with us up the Sacramento River, and that
+is all I do know.) With the loss of Dinny McCrea's boat, I was pledged to
+The Road; and when I grew tired of Sacramento, I said good-by to the push
+(which, in its friendly way, tried to ditch me from a freight as I left
+town) and started on a <i>passear</i> down the valley of the San Joaquin. The
+Road had gripped me and would not let me go; and later, when I had voyaged
+to sea and done one thing and another, I returned to The Road to make
+longer flights, to be a &quot;comet&quot; and a profesh, and to plump into the bath
+of sociology that wet me to the skin.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Two_Thousand_Stiffs" id="Two_Thousand_Stiffs" /><i>Two Thousand Stiffs</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>A &quot;stiff&quot; is a tramp. It was once my fortune to travel a few weeks with a
+&quot;push&quot; that numbered two thousand. This was known as &quot;Kelly's Army.&quot;
+Across the wild and woolly West, clear from California, General Kelly and
+his heroes had captured trains; but they fell down when they crossed the
+Missouri and went up against the effete East. The East hadn't the
+slightest intention of giving free transportation to two thousand hoboes.
+Kelly's Army lay helplessly for some time at Council Bluffs. The day I
+joined it, made desperate by delay, it marched out to capture a train.</p>
+
+<p>It was quite an imposing sight. General Kelly sat a magnificent black
+charger, and with waving banners, to the martial music of fife and drum
+corps, company by company, in two divisions, his two thousand stiffs
+countermarched before him and hit the wagon-road to the little burg of
+Weston, seven miles away. Being the latest recruit, I was in the last
+company, of the last regiment, of the Second Division, and, furthermore,
+in the last rank of the rear-guard. The army went into camp at Weston
+beside the railroad track&mdash;beside the tracks, rather, for two roads went
+through: the Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul, and the Rock Island.</p>
+
+<p>Our intention was to take the first train out, but the railroad officials
+&quot;coppered&quot; our play&mdash;and won. There was no first train. They tied up the
+two lines and stopped running trains. In the meantime, while we lay by the
+dead tracks, the good people of Omaha and Council Bluffs were bestirring
+themselves. Preparations were making to form a mob, capture a train in
+Council Bluffs, run it down to us, and make us a present of it. The
+railroad officials coppered that play, too. They didn't wait for the mob.
+Early in the morning of the second day, an engine, with a single private
+car attached, arrived at the station and side-tracked. At this sign that
+life had renewed in the dead roads, the whole army lined up beside the
+track.</p>
+
+<p>But never did life renew so monstrously on a dead railroad as it did on
+those two roads. From the west came the whistle of a locomotive. It was
+coming in our direction, bound east. We were bound east. A stir of
+preparation ran down our ranks. The whistle tooted fast and furiously, and
+the train thundered at top speed. The hobo didn't live that could have
+boarded it. Another locomotive whistled, and another train came through at
+top speed, and another, and another, train after train, train after train,
+till toward the last the trains were composed of passenger coaches,
+box-cars, flat-cars, dead engines, cabooses, mail-cars, wrecking
+appliances, and all the riff-raff of worn-out and abandoned rolling-stock
+that collects in the yards of great railways. When the yards at Council
+Bluffs had been completely cleaned, the private car and engine went east,
+and the tracks died for keeps.</p>
+
+<p>That day went by, and the next, and nothing moved, and in the meantime,
+pelted by sleet, and rain, and hail, the two thousand hoboes lay beside
+the track. But that night the good people of Council Bluffs went the
+railroad officials one better. A mob formed in Council Bluffs, crossed the
+river to Omaha, and there joined with another mob in a raid on the Union
+Pacific yards. First they captured an engine, next they knocked a train
+together, and then the united mobs piled aboard, crossed the Missouri, and
+ran down the Rock Island right of way to turn the train over to us. The
+railway officials tried to copper this play, but fell down, to the mortal
+terror of the section boss and one member of the section gang at Weston.
+This pair, under secret telegraphic orders, tried to wreck our train-load
+of sympathizers by tearing up the track. It happened that we were
+suspicious and had our patrols out. Caught red-handed at train-wrecking,
+and surrounded by twenty hundred infuriated hoboes, that section-gang boss
+and assistant prepared to meet death. I don't remember what saved them,
+unless it was the arrival of the train.</p>
+
+<p>It was our turn to fall down, and we did, hard. In their haste, the two
+mobs had neglected to make up a sufficiently long train. There wasn't room
+for two thousand hoboes to ride. So the mobs and the hoboes had a
+talkfest, fraternized, sang songs, and parted, the mobs going back on
+their captured train to Omaha, the hoboes pulling out next morning on a
+hundred-and-forty-mile march to Des Moines. It was not until Kelly's Army
+crossed the Missouri that it began to walk, and after that it never rode
+again. It cost the railroads slathers of money, but they were acting on
+principle, and they won.</p>
+
+<p>Underwood, Leola, Menden, Avoca, Walnut, Marno, Atlantic, Wyoto, Anita,
+Adair, Adam, Casey, Stuart, Dexter, Carlham, De Soto, Van Meter,
+Booneville, Commerce, Valley Junction&mdash;how the names of the towns come
+back to me as I con the map and trace our route through the fat Iowa
+country! And the hospitable Iowa farmer-folk! They turned out with their
+wagons and carried our baggage; gave us hot lunches at noon by the
+wayside; mayors of comfortable little towns made speeches of welcome and
+hastened us on our way; deputations of little girls and maidens came out
+to meet us, and the good citizens turned out by hundreds, locked arms, and
+marched with us down their main streets. It was circus day when we came to
+town, and every day was circus day, for there were many towns.</p>
+
+<p>In the evenings our camps were invaded by whole populations. Every company
+had its campfire, and around each fire something was doing. The cooks in
+my company, Company L, were song-and-dance artists and contributed most of
+our entertainment. In another part of the encampment the glee club would
+be singing&mdash;one of its star voices was the &quot;Dentist,&quot; drawn from Company
+L, and we were mighty proud of him. Also, he pulled teeth for the whole
+army, and, since the extractions usually occurred at meal-time, our
+digestions were stimulated by variety of incident. The Dentist had no
+an&aelig;sthetics, but two or three of us were always on tap to volunteer to
+hold down the patient. In addition to the stunts of the companies and the
+glee club, church services were usually held, local preachers officiating,
+and always there was a great making of political speeches. All these
+things ran neck and neck; it was a full-blown Midway. A lot of talent can
+be dug out of two thousand hoboes. I remember we had a picked baseball
+nine, and on Sundays we made a practice of putting it all over the local
+nines. Sometimes we did it twice on Sundays.</p>
+
+<p>Last year, while on a lecturing trip, I rode into Des Moines in a
+Pullman&mdash;I don't mean a &quot;side-door Pullman,&quot; but the real thing. On the
+outskirts of the city I saw the old stove-works, and my heart leaped. It
+was there, at the stove-works, a dozen years before, that the Army lay
+down and swore a mighty oath that its feet were sore and that it would
+walk no more. We took possession of the stove-works and told Des Moines
+that we had come to stay&mdash;that we'd walked in, but we'd be blessed if we'd
+walk out. Des Moines was hospitable, but this was too much of a good
+thing. Do a little mental arithmetic, gentle reader. Two thousand hoboes,
+eating three square meals, make six thousand meals per day, forty-two
+thousand meals per week, or one hundred and sixty-eight thousand meals per
+shortest month in the calendar. That's going some. We had no money. It was
+up to Des Moines.</p>
+
+<p>Des Moines was desperate. We lay in camp, made political speeches, held
+sacred concerts, pulled teeth, played baseball and seven-up, and ate our
+six thousand meals per day, and Des Moines paid for it. Des Moines pleaded
+with the railroads, but they were obdurate; they had said we shouldn't
+ride, and that settled it. To permit us to ride would be to establish a
+precedent, and there weren't going to be any precedents. And still we went
+on eating. That was the terrifying factor in the situation. We were bound
+for Washington, and Des Moines would have had to float municipal bonds to
+pay all our railroad fares, even at special rates, and if we remained much
+longer, she'd have to float bonds anyway to feed us.</p>
+
+<p>Then some local genius solved the problem. We wouldn't walk. Very good. We
+should ride. From Des Moines to Keokuk on the Mississippi flowed the Des
+Moines River. This particular stretch of river was three hundred miles
+long. We could ride on it, said the local genius; and, once equipped with
+floating stock, we could ride on down the Mississippi to the Ohio, and
+thence up the Ohio, winding up with a short portage over the mountains to
+Washington.</p>
+
+<p>Des Moines took up a subscription. Public-spirited citizens contributed
+several thousand dollars. Lumber, rope, nails, and cotton for calking were
+bought in large quantities, and on the banks of the Des Moines was
+inaugurated a tremendous era of shipbuilding. Now the Des Moines is a
+picayune stream, unduly dignified by the appellation of &quot;river.&quot; In our
+spacious western land it would be called a &quot;creek.&quot; The oldest inhabitants
+shook their heads and said we couldn't make it, that there wasn't enough
+water to float us. Des Moines didn't care, so long as it got rid of us,
+and we were such well-fed optimists that we didn't care either.</p>
+
+<p>On Wednesday, May 9, 1894, we got under way and started on our colossal
+picnic. Des Moines had got off pretty easily, and she certainly owes a
+statue in bronze to the local genius who got her out of her difficulty.
+True, Des Moines had to pay for our boats; we had eaten sixty-six thousand
+meals at the stove-works; and we took twelve thousand additional meals
+along with us in our commissary&mdash;as a precaution against famine in the
+wilds; but then, think what it would have meant if we had remained at Des
+Moines eleven months instead of eleven days. Also, when we departed, we
+promised Des Moines we'd come back if the river failed to float us.</p>
+
+<p>It was all very well having twelve thousand meals in the commissary, and
+no doubt the commissary &quot;ducks&quot; enjoyed them; for the commissary promptly
+got lost, and my boat, for one, never saw it again. The company formation
+was hopelessly broken up during the river-trip. In any camp of men there
+will always be found a certain percentage of shirks, of helpless, of just
+ordinary, and of hustlers. There were ten men in my boat, and they were
+the cream of Company L. Every man was a hustler. For two reasons I was
+included in the ten. First, I was as good a hustler as ever &quot;threw his
+feet,&quot; and next, I was &quot;Sailor Jack.&quot; I understood boats and boating. The
+ten of us forgot the remaining forty men of Company L, and by the time we
+had missed one meal we promptly forgot the commissary. We were
+independent. We went down the river &quot;on our own,&quot; hustling our &quot;chewin's,&quot;
+beating every boat in the fleet, and, alas that I must say it, sometimes
+taking possession of the stores the farmer-folk had collected for the
+Army.</p>
+
+<p>For a good part of the three hundred miles we were from half a day to a
+day or so in advance of the Army. We had managed to get hold of several
+American flags. When we approached a small town, or when we saw a group of
+farmers gathered on the bank, we ran up our flags, called ourselves the
+&quot;advance boat,&quot; and demanded to know what provisions had been collected
+for the Army. We represented the Army, of course, and the provisions were
+turned over to us. But there wasn't anything small about us. We never
+took more than we could get away with. But we did take the cream of
+everything. For instance, if some philanthropic farmer had donated several
+dollars' worth of tobacco, we took it. So, also, we took butter and sugar,
+coffee and canned goods; but when the stores consisted of sacks of beans
+and flour, or two or three slaughtered steers, we resolutely refrained and
+went our way, leaving orders to turn such provisions over to the
+commissary boats whose business was to follow behind us.</p>
+
+<p>My, but the ten of us did live on the fat of the land! For a long time
+General Kelly vainly tried to head us off. He sent two rowers, in a light,
+round-bottomed boat, to overtake us and put a stop to our piratical
+careers. They overtook us all right, but they were two and we were ten.
+They were empowered by General Kelly to make us prisoners, and they told
+us so. When we expressed disinclination to become prisoners, they hurried
+ahead to the next town to invoke the aid of the authorities. We went
+ashore immediately and cooked an early supper; and under the cloak of
+darkness we ran by the town and its authorities.</p>
+
+<p>I kept a diary on part of the trip, and as I read it over now I note one
+persistently recurring phrase, namely, &quot;Living fine.&quot; We did live fine. We
+even disdained to use coffee boiled in water. We made our coffee out of
+milk, calling the wonderful beverage, if I remember rightly, &quot;pale
+Vienna.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>While we were ahead, skimming the cream, and while the commissary was lost
+far behind, the main Army, coming along in the middle, starved. This was
+hard on the Army, I'll allow; but then, the ten of us were individualists.
+We had initiative and enterprise. We ardently believed that the grub was
+to the man who got there first, the pale Vienna to the strong. On one
+stretch the Army went forty-eight hours without grub; and then it arrived
+at a small village of some three hundred inhabitants, the name of which I
+do not remember, though I think it was Red Rock. This town, following the
+practice of all towns through which the Army passed, had appointed a
+committee of safety. Counting five to a family, Red Rock consisted of
+sixty households. Her committee of safety was scared stiff by the eruption
+of two thousand hungry hoboes who lined their boats two and three deep
+along the river bank. General Kelly was a fair man. He had no intention
+of working a hardship on the village. He did not expect sixty households
+to furnish two thousand meals. Besides, the Army had its treasure-chest.</p>
+
+<p>But the committee of safety lost its head. &quot;No encouragement to the
+invader&quot; was its programme, and when General Kelly wanted to buy food, the
+committee turned him down. It had nothing to sell; General Kelly's money
+was &quot;no good&quot; in their burg. And then General Kelly went into action. The
+bugles blew. The Army left the boats and on top of the bank formed in
+battle array. The committee was there to see. General Kelly's speech was
+brief.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Boys,&quot; he said, &quot;when did you eat last?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Day before yesterday,&quot; they shouted.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Are you hungry?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>A mighty affirmation from two thousand throats shook the atmosphere. Then
+General Kelly turned to the committee of safety:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You see, gentlemen, the situation. My men have eaten nothing in
+forty-eight hours. If I turn them loose upon your town, I'll not be
+responsible for what happens. They are desperate. I offered to buy food
+for them, but you refused to sell. I now withdraw my offer. Instead, I
+shall demand. I give you five minutes to decide. Either kill me six steers
+and give me four thousand rations, or I turn the men loose. Five minutes,
+gentlemen.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The terrified committee of safety looked at the two thousand hungry hoboes
+and collapsed. It didn't wait the five minutes. It wasn't going to take
+any chances. The killing of the steers and the collecting of the
+requisition began forthwith, and the Army dined.</p>
+
+<p>And still the ten graceless individualists soared along ahead and gathered
+in everything in sight. But General Kelly fixed us. He sent horsemen down
+each bank, warning farmers and townspeople against us. They did their work
+thoroughly, all right. The erstwhile hospitable farmers met us with the
+icy mit. Also, they summoned the constables when we tied up to the bank,
+and loosed the dogs. I know. Two of the latter caught me with a
+barbed-wire fence between me and the river. I was carrying two buckets of
+milk for the pale Vienna. I didn't damage the fence any; but we drank
+plebian coffee boiled with vulgar water, and it was up to me to throw my
+feet for another pair of trousers. I wonder, gentle reader, if you ever
+essayed hastily to climb a barbed-wire fence with a bucket of milk in each
+hand. Ever since that day I have had a prejudice against barbed wire, and
+I have gathered statistics on the subject.</p>
+
+<p>Unable to make an honest living so long as General Kelly kept his two
+horsemen ahead of us, we returned to the Army and raised a revolution. It
+was a small affair, but it devastated Company L of the Second Division.
+The captain of Company L refused to recognize us; said we were deserters,
+and traitors, and scalawags; and when he drew rations for Company L from
+the commissary, he wouldn't give us any. That captain didn't appreciate
+us, or he wouldn't have refused us grub. Promptly we intrigued with the
+first lieutenant. He joined us with the ten men in his boat, and in return
+we elected him captain of Company M. The captain of Company L raised a
+roar. Down upon us came General Kelly, Colonel Speed, and Colonel Baker.
+The twenty of us stood firm, and our revolution was ratified.</p>
+
+<p>But we never bothered with the commissary. Our hustlers drew better
+rations from the farmers. Our new captain, however, doubted us. He never
+knew when he'd see the ten of us again, once we got under way in the
+morning, so he called in a blacksmith to clinch his captaincy. In the
+stern of our boat, one on each side, were driven two heavy eye-bolts of
+iron. Correspondingly, on the bow of his boat, were fastened two huge iron
+hooks. The boats were brought together, end on, the hooks dropped into the
+eye-bolts, and there we were, hard and fast. We couldn't lose that
+captain. But we were irrepressible. Out of our very manacles we wrought an
+invincible device that enabled us to put it all over every other boat in
+the fleet.</p>
+
+<p>Like all great inventions, this one of ours was accidental. We discovered
+it the first time we ran on a snag in a bit of a rapid. The head-boat hung
+up and anchored, and the tail-boat swung around in the current, pivoting
+the head-boat on the snag. I was at the stern of the tail-boat, steering.
+In vain we tried to shove off. Then I ordered the men from the head-boat
+into the tail-boat. Immediately the head-boat floated clear, and its men
+returned into it. After that, snags, reefs, shoals, and bars had no
+terrors for us. The instant the head-boat struck, the men in it leaped
+into the tail-boat. Of course, the head-boat floated over the obstruction
+and the tail-boat then struck. Like automatons, the twenty men now in the
+tail-boat leaped into the head-boat, and the tail-boat floated past.</p>
+
+<p>The boats used by the Army were all alike, made by the mile and sawed off.
+They were flat-boats, and their lines were rectangles. Each boat was six
+feet wide, ten feet long, and a foot and a half deep. Thus, when our two
+boats were hooked together, I sat at the stern steering a craft twenty
+feet long, containing twenty husky hoboes who &quot;spelled&quot; each other at the
+oars and paddles, and loaded with blankets, cooking outfit, and our own
+private commissary.</p>
+
+<p>Still we caused General Kelly trouble. He had called in his horsemen, and
+substituted three police-boats that travelled in the van and allowed no
+boats to pass them. The craft containing Company M crowded the
+police-boats hard. We could have passed them easily, but it was against
+the rules. So we kept a respectful distance astern and waited. Ahead we
+knew was virgin farming country, unbegged and generous; but we waited.
+White water was all we needed, and when we rounded a bend and a rapid
+showed up we knew what would happen. Smash! Police-boat number one goes on
+a boulder and hangs up. Bang! Police-boat number two follows suit. Whop!
+Police-boat number three encounters the common fate of all. Of course our
+boat does the same things; but one, two, the men are out of the head-boat
+and into the tail-boat; one, two, they are out of the tail-boat and into
+the head-boat; and one, two, the men who belong in the tail-boat are back
+in it and we are dashing on. &quot;Stop! you blankety-blank-blanks!&quot; shriek the
+police-boats. &quot;How can we?&mdash;blank the blankety-blank river, anyway!&quot; we
+wail plaintively as we surge past, caught in that remorseless current that
+sweeps us on out of sight and into the hospitable farmer-country that
+replenishes our private commissary with the cream of its contributions.
+Again we drink pale Vienna and realize that the grub is to the man who
+gets there.</p>
+
+<p>Poor General Kelly! He devised another scheme. The whole fleet started
+ahead of us. Company M of the Second Division started in its proper place
+in the line, which was last. And it took us only one day to put the
+&quot;kibosh&quot; on that particular scheme. Twenty-five miles of bad water lay
+before us&mdash;all rapids, shoals, bars, and boulders. It was over that
+stretch of water that the oldest inhabitants of Des Moines had shaken
+their heads. Nearly two hundred boats entered the bad water ahead of us,
+and they piled up in the most astounding manner. We went through that
+stranded fleet like hemlock through the fire. There was no avoiding the
+boulders, bars, and snags except by getting out on the bank. We didn't
+avoid them. We went right over them, one, two, one, two, head-boat,
+tail-boat, head-boat, tail-boat, all hands back and forth and back again.
+We camped that night alone, and loafed in camp all of next day while the
+Army patched and repaired its wrecked boats and straggled up to us.</p>
+
+<p>There was no stopping our cussedness. We rigged up a mast, piled on the
+canvas (blankets), and travelled short hours while the Army worked
+over-time to keep us in sight. Then General Kelly had recourse to
+diplomacy. No boat could touch us in the straight-away. Without
+discussion, we were the hottest bunch that ever came down the Des Moines.
+The ban of the police-boats was lifted. Colonel Speed was put aboard, and
+with this distinguished officer we had the honor of arriving first at
+Keokuk on the Mississippi. And right here I want to say to General Kelly
+and Colonel Speed that here's my hand. You were heroes, both of you, and
+you were men. And I'm sorry for at least ten per cent of the trouble that
+was given you by the head-boat of Company M.</p>
+
+<p>At Keokuk the whole fleet was lashed together in a huge raft, and, after
+being wind-bound a day, a steamboat took us in tow down the Mississippi to
+Quincy, Illinois, where we camped across the river on Goose Island. Here
+the raft idea was abandoned, the boats being joined together in groups of
+four and decked over. Somebody told me that Quincy was the richest town of
+its size in the United States. When I heard this, I was immediately
+overcome by an irresistible impulse to throw my feet. No
+&quot;blowed-in-the-glass profesh&quot; could possibly pass up such a promising
+burg. I crossed the river to Quincy in a small dug-out; but I came back
+in a large riverboat, down to the gunwales with the results of my thrown
+feet. Of course I kept all the money I had collected, though I paid the
+boat-hire; also I took my pick of the underwear, socks, cast-off clothes,
+shirts, &quot;kicks,&quot; and &quot;sky-pieces&quot;; and when Company M had taken all it
+wanted there was still a respectable heap that was turned over to Company
+L. Alas, I was young and prodigal in those days! I told a thousand
+&quot;stories&quot; to the good people of Quincy, and every story was &quot;good&quot;; but
+since I have come to write for the magazines I have often regretted the
+wealth of story, the fecundity of fiction, I lavished that day in Quincy,
+Illinois.</p>
+
+<p>It was at Hannibal, Missouri, that the ten invincibles went to pieces. It
+was not planned. We just naturally flew apart. The Boiler-Maker and I
+deserted secretly. On the same day Scotty and Davy made a swift sneak for
+the Illinois shore; also McAvoy and Fish achieved their get-away. This
+accounts for six of the ten; what became of the remaining four I do not
+know. As a sample of life on The Road, I make the following quotation from
+my diary of the several days following my desertion.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Friday, May 25th. Boiler-Maker and I left the camp on the island. We went
+ashore on the Illinois side in a skiff and walked six miles on the C.B. &amp;
+Q. to Fell Creek. We had gone six miles out of our way, but we got on a
+hand-car and rode six miles to Hull's, on the Wabash. While there, we met
+McAvoy, Fish, Scotty, and Davy, who had also pulled out from the Army.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Saturday, May 26th. At 2.11 A.M. we caught the Cannonball as she slowed
+up at the crossing. Scotty and Davy were ditched. The four of us were
+ditched at the Bluffs, forty miles farther on. In the afternoon Fish and
+McAvoy caught a freight while Boiler-Maker and I were away getting
+something to eat.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Sunday, May 27th. At 3.21 A.M. we caught the Cannonball and found Scotty
+and Davy on the blind. We were all ditched at daylight at Jacksonville.
+The C. &amp; A. runs through here, and we're going to take that. Boiler-Maker
+went off, but didn't return. Guess he caught a freight.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Monday, May 28th. Boiler-Maker didn't show up. Scotty and Davy went off
+to sleep somewhere, and didn't get back in time to catch the K.C.
+passenger at 3.30 A.M. I caught her and rode her till after sunrise to
+Masson City, 25,000 inhabitants. Caught a cattle train and rode all night.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Tuesday, May 29th. Arrived in Chicago at 7 A.M....&quot;</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>And years afterward, in China, I had the grief of learning that the device
+we employed to navigate the rapids of the Des Moines&mdash;the one-two-one-two,
+head-boat-tail-boat proposition&mdash;was not originated by us. I learned that
+the Chinese river-boatmen had for thousands of years used a similar device
+to negotiate &quot;bad water.&quot; It is a good stunt all right, even if we don't
+get the credit. It answers Dr. Jordan's test of truth: &quot;Will it work? Will
+you trust your life to it?&quot;</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="Bulls" id="Bulls" /><i>Bulls</i></h2>
+
+
+<p>If the tramp were suddenly to pass away from the United States, widespread
+misery for many families would follow. The tramp enables thousands of men
+to earn honest livings, educate their children, and bring them up
+God-fearing and industrious. I know. At one time my father was a constable
+and hunted tramps for a living. The community paid him so much per head
+for all the tramps he could catch, and also, I believe, he got mileage
+fees. Ways and means was always a pressing problem in our household, and
+the amount of meat on the table, the new pair of shoes, the day's outing,
+or the text-book for school, were dependent upon my father's luck in the
+chase. Well I remember the suppressed eagerness and the suspense with
+which I waited to learn each morning what the results of his past night's
+toil had been&mdash;how many tramps he had gathered in and what the chances
+were for convicting them. And so it was, when later, as a tramp, I
+succeeded in eluding some predatory constable, I could not but feel sorry
+for the little boys and girls at home in that constable's house; it seemed
+to me in a way that I was defrauding those little boys and girls of some
+of the good things of life.</p>
+
+<p>But it's all in the game. The hobo defies society, and society's
+watch-dogs make a living out of him. Some hoboes like to be caught by the
+watch-dogs&mdash;especially in winter-time. Of course, such hoboes select
+communities where the jails are &quot;good,&quot; wherein no work is performed and
+the food is substantial. Also, there have been, and most probably still
+are, constables who divide their fees with the hoboes they arrest. Such a
+constable does not have to hunt. He whistles, and the game comes right up
+to his hand. It is surprising, the money that is made out of stone-broke
+tramps. All through the South&mdash;at least when I was hoboing&mdash;are convict
+camps and plantations, where the time of convicted hoboes is bought by the
+farmers, and where the hoboes simply have to work. Then there are places
+like the quarries at Rutland, Vermont, where the hobo is exploited, the
+unearned energy in his body, which he has accumulated by &quot;battering on
+the drag&quot; or &quot;slamming gates,&quot; being extracted for the benefit of that
+particular community.</p>
+
+<p>Now I don't know anything about the quarries at Rutland, Vermont. I'm very
+glad that I don't, when I remember how near I was to getting into them.
+Tramps pass the word along, and I first heard of those quarries when I was
+in Indiana. But when I got into New England, I heard of them continually,
+and always with danger-signals flying. &quot;They want men in the quarries,&quot;
+the passing hoboes said; &quot;and they never give a 'stiff' less than ninety
+days.&quot; By the time I got into New Hampshire I was pretty well keyed up
+over those quarries, and I fought shy of railroad cops, &quot;bulls,&quot; and
+constables as I never had before.</p>
+
+<p>One evening I went down to the railroad yards at Concord and found a
+freight train made up and ready to start. I located an empty box-car, slid
+open the side-door, and climbed in. It was my hope to win across to White
+River by morning; that would bring me into Vermont and not more than a
+thousand miles from Rutland. But after that, as I worked north, the
+distance between me and the point of danger would begin to increase. In
+the car I found a &quot;gay-cat,&quot; who displayed unusual trepidation at my
+entrance. He took me for a &quot;shack&quot; (brakeman), and when he learned I was
+only a stiff, he began talking about the quarries at Rutland as the cause
+of the fright I had given him. He was a young country fellow, and had
+beaten his way only over local stretches of road.</p>
+
+<p>The freight got under way, and we lay down in one end of the box-car and
+went to sleep. Two or three hours afterward, at a stop, I was awakened by
+the noise of the right-hand door being softly slid open. The gay-cat slept
+on. I made no movement, though I veiled my eyes with my lashes to a little
+slit through which I could see out. A lantern was thrust in through the
+doorway, followed by the head of a shack. He discovered us, and looked at
+us for a moment. I was prepared for a violent expression on his part, or
+the customary &quot;Hit the grit, you son of a toad!&quot; Instead of this he
+cautiously withdrew the lantern and very, very softly slid the door to.
+This struck me as eminently unusual and suspicious. I listened, and softly
+I heard the hasp drop into place. The door was latched on the outside. We
+could not open it from the inside. One way of sudden exit from that car
+was blocked. It would never do. I waited a few seconds, then crept to the
+left-hand door and tried it. It was not yet latched. I opened it, dropped
+to the ground, and closed it behind me. Then I passed across the bumpers
+to the other side of the train. I opened the door the shack had latched,
+climbed in, and closed it behind me. Both exits were available again. The
+gay-cat was still asleep.</p>
+
+<p>The train got under way. It came to the next stop. I heard footsteps in
+the gravel. Then the left-hand door was thrown open noisily. The gay-cat
+awoke, I made believe to awake; and we sat up and stared at the shack and
+his lantern. He didn't waste any time getting down to business.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I want three dollars,&quot; he said.</p>
+
+<p>We got on our feet and came nearer to him to confer. We expressed an
+absolute and devoted willingness to give him three dollars, but explained
+our wretched luck that compelled our desire to remain unsatisfied. The
+shack was incredulous. He dickered with us. He would compromise for two
+dollars. We regretted our condition of poverty. He said uncomplimentary
+things, called us sons of toads, and damned us from hell to breakfast.
+Then he threatened. He explained that if we didn't dig up, he'd lock us in
+and carry us on to White River and turn us over to the authorities. He
+also explained all about the quarries at Rutland.</p>
+
+<p>Now that shack thought he had us dead to rights. Was not he guarding the
+one door, and had he not himself latched the opposite door but a few
+minutes before? When he began talking about quarries, the frightened
+gay-cat started to sidle across to the other door. The shack laughed loud
+and long. &quot;Don't be in a hurry,&quot; he said; &quot;I locked that door on the
+outside at the last stop.&quot; So implicitly did he believe the door to be
+locked that his words carried conviction. The gay-cat believed and was in
+despair.</p>
+
+<p>The shack delivered his ultimatum. Either we should dig up two dollars, or
+he would lock us in and turn us over to the constable at White River&mdash;and
+that meant ninety days and the quarries. Now, gentle reader, just suppose
+that the other door had been locked. Behold the precariousness of human
+life. For lack of a dollar, I'd have gone to the quarries and served three
+months as a convict slave. So would the gay-cat. Count me out, for I was
+hopeless; but consider the gay-cat. He might have come out, after those
+ninety days, pledged to a life of crime. And later he might have broken
+your skull, even your skull, with a blackjack in an endeavor to take
+possession of the money on your person&mdash;and if not your skull, then some
+other poor and unoffending creature's skull.</p>
+
+<p>But the door was unlocked, and I alone knew it. The gay-cat and I begged
+for mercy. I joined in the pleading and wailing out of sheer cussedness, I
+suppose. But I did my best. I told a &quot;story&quot; that would have melted the
+heart of any mug; but it didn't melt the heart of that sordid
+money-grasper of a shack. When he became convinced that we didn't have any
+money, he slid the door shut and latched it, then lingered a moment on the
+chance that we had fooled him and that we would now offer him the two
+dollars.</p>
+
+<p>Then it was that I let out a few links. I called him a son of a toad. I
+called him all the other things he had called me. And then I called him a
+few additional things. I came from the West, where men knew how to swear,
+and I wasn't going to let any mangy shack on a measly New England &quot;jerk&quot;
+put it over me in vividness and vigor of language. At first the shack
+tried to laugh it down. Then he made the mistake of attempting to reply. I
+let out a few more links, and I cut him to the raw and therein rubbed
+winged and flaming epithets. Nor was my fine frenzy all whim and literary;
+I was indignant at this vile creature, who, in default of a dollar, would
+consign me to three months of slavery. Furthermore, I had a sneaking idea
+that he got a &quot;drag&quot; out of the constable fees.</p>
+
+<p>But I fixed him. I lacerated his feelings and pride several dollars'
+worth. He tried to scare me by threatening to come in after me and kick
+the stuffing out of me. In return, I promised to kick him in the face
+while he was climbing in. The advantage of position was with me, and he
+saw it. So he kept the door shut and called for help from the rest of the
+train-crew. I could hear them answering and crunching through the gravel
+to him. And all the time the other door was unlatched, and they didn't
+know it; and in the meantime the gay-cat was ready to die with fear.</p>
+
+<p>Oh, I was a hero&mdash;with my line of retreat straight behind me. I slanged
+the shack and his mates till they threw the door open and I could see
+their infuriated faces in the shine of the lanterns. It was all very
+simple to them. They had us cornered in the car, and they were going to
+come in and man-handle us. They started. I didn't kick anybody in the
+face. I jerked the opposite door open, and the gay-cat and I went out. The
+train-crew took after us.</p>
+
+<p>We went over&mdash;if I remember correctly&mdash;a stone fence. But I have no doubts
+of recollection about where we found ourselves. In the darkness I promptly
+fell over a grave-stone. The gay-cat sprawled over another. And then we
+got the chase of our lives through that graveyard. The ghosts must have
+thought we were going some. So did the train-crew, for when we emerged
+from the graveyard and plunged across a road into a dark wood, the shacks
+gave up the pursuit and went back to their train. A little later that
+night the gay-cat and I found ourselves at the well of a farmhouse. We
+were after a drink of water, but we noticed a small rope that ran down one
+side of the well. We hauled it up and found on the end of it a gallon-can
+of cream. And that is as near as I got to the quarries of Rutland,
+Vermont.</p>
+
+<p>When hoboes pass the word along, concerning a town, that &quot;the bulls is
+horstile,&quot; avoid that town, or, if you must, go through softly. There are
+some towns that one must always go through softly. Such a town was
+Cheyenne, on the Union Pacific. It had a national reputation for being
+&quot;horstile,&quot;&mdash;and it was all due to the efforts of one Jeff Carr (if I
+remember his name aright). Jeff Carr could size up the &quot;front&quot; of a hobo
+on the instant. He never entered into discussion. In the one moment he
+sized up the hobo, and in the next he struck out with both fists, a club,
+or anything else he had handy. After he had man-handled the hobo, he
+started him out of town with a promise of worse if he ever saw him again.
+Jeff Carr knew the game. North, south, east, and west to the uttermost
+confines of the United States (Canada and Mexico included), the
+man-handled hoboes carried the word that Cheyenne was &quot;horstile.&quot;
+Fortunately, I never encountered Jeff Carr. I passed through Cheyenne in a
+blizzard. There were eighty-four hoboes with me at the time. The strength
+of numbers made us pretty nonchalant on most things, but not on Jeff
+Carr. The connotation of &quot;Jeff Carr&quot; stunned our imagination, numbed our
+virility, and the whole gang was mortally scared of meeting him.</p>
+
+<p>It rarely pays to stop and enter into explanations with bulls when they
+look &quot;horstile.&quot; A swift get-away is the thing to do. It took me some time
+to learn this; but the finishing touch was put upon me by a bull in New
+York City. Ever since that time it has been an automatic process with me
+to make a run for it when I see a bull reaching for me. This automatic
+process has become a mainspring of conduct in me, wound up and ready for
+instant release. I shall never get over it. Should I be eighty years old,
+hobbling along the street on crutches, and should a policeman suddenly
+reach out for me, I know I'd drop the crutches and run like a deer.</p>
+
+<p>The finishing touch to my education in bulls was received on a hot summer
+afternoon in New York City. It was during a week of scorching weather. I
+had got into the habit of throwing my feet in the morning, and of spending
+the afternoon in the little park that is hard by Newspaper Row and the
+City Hall. It was near there that I could buy from pushcart men current
+books (that had been injured in the making or binding) for a few cents
+each. Then, right in the park itself, were little booths where one could
+buy glorious, ice-cold, sterilized milk and buttermilk at a penny a glass.
+Every afternoon I sat on a bench and read, and went on a milk debauch. I
+got away with from five to ten glasses each afternoon. It was dreadfully
+hot weather.</p>
+
+<p>So here I was, a meek and studious milk-drinking hobo, and behold what I
+got for it. One afternoon I arrived at the park, a fresh book-purchase
+under my arm and a tremendous buttermilk thirst under my shirt. In the
+middle of the street, in front of the City Hall, I noticed, as I came
+along heading for the buttermilk booth, that a crowd had formed. It was
+right where I was crossing the street, so I stopped to see the cause of
+the collection of curious men. At first I could see nothing. Then, from
+the sounds I heard and from a glimpse I caught, I knew that it was a bunch
+of gamins playing pee-wee. Now pee-wee is not permitted in the streets of
+New York. I didn't know that, but I learned pretty lively. I had paused
+possibly thirty seconds, in which time I had learned the cause of the
+crowd, when I heard a gamin yell &quot;Bull!&quot; The gamins knew their business.
+They ran. I didn't.</p>
+
+<p>The crowd broke up immediately and started for the sidewalk on both sides
+of the street. I started for the sidewalk on the park-side. There must
+have been fifty men, who had been in the original crowd, who were heading
+in the same direction. We were loosely strung out. I noticed the bull, a
+strapping policeman in a gray suit. He was coming along the middle of the
+street, without haste, merely sauntering. I noticed casually that he
+changed his course, and was heading obliquely for the same sidewalk that I
+was heading for directly. He sauntered along, threading the strung-out
+crowd, and I noticed that his course and mine would cross each other. I
+was so innocent of wrong-doing that, in spite of my education in bulls and
+their ways, I apprehended nothing. I never dreamed that bull was after me.
+Out of my respect for the law I was actually all ready to pause the next
+moment and let him cross in front of me. The pause came all right, but it
+was not of my volition; also it was a backward pause. Without warning,
+that bull had suddenly launched out at me on the chest with both hands. At
+the same moment, verbally, he cast the bar sinister on my genealogy.</p>
+
+<p>All my free American blood boiled. All my liberty-loving ancestors
+clamored in me. &quot;What do you mean?&quot; I demanded. You see, I wanted an
+explanation. And I got it. Bang! His club came down on top of my head, and
+I was reeling backward like a drunken man, the curious faces of the
+onlookers billowing up and down like the waves of the sea, my precious
+book falling from under my arm into the dirt, the bull advancing with the
+club ready for another blow. And in that dizzy moment I had a vision. I
+saw that club descending many times upon my head; I saw myself, bloody and
+battered and hard-looking, in a police-court; I heard a charge of
+disorderly conduct, profane language, resisting an officer, and a few
+other things, read by a clerk; and I saw myself across in Blackwell's
+Island. Oh, I knew the game. I lost all interest in explanations. I didn't
+stop to pick up my precious, unread book. I turned and ran. I was pretty
+sick, but I ran. And run I shall, to my dying day, whenever a bull begins
+to explain with a club.</p>
+
+<p>Why, years after my tramping days, when I was a student in the University
+of California, one night I went to the circus. After the show and the
+concert I lingered on to watch the working of the transportation machinery
+of a great circus. The circus was leaving that night. By a bonfire I came
+upon a bunch of small boys. There were about twenty of them, and as they
+talked with one another I learned that they were going to run away with
+the circus. Now the circus-men didn't want to be bothered with this mess
+of urchins, and a telephone to police headquarters had &quot;coppered&quot; the
+play. A squad of ten policemen had been despatched to the scene to arrest
+the small boys for violating the nine o'clock curfew ordinance. The
+policemen surrounded the bonfire, and crept up close to it in the
+darkness. At the signal, they made a rush, each policeman grabbing at the
+youngsters as he would grab into a basket of squirming eels.</p>
+
+<p>Now I didn't know anything about the coming of the police; and when I saw
+the sudden eruption of brass-buttoned, helmeted bulls, each of them
+reaching with both hands, all the forces and stability of my being were
+overthrown. Remained only the automatic process to run. And I ran. I
+didn't know I was running. I didn't know anything. It was, as I have said,
+automatic. There was no reason for me to run. I was not a hobo. I was a
+citizen of that community. It was my home town. I was guilty of no
+wrong-doing. I was a college man. I had even got my name in the papers,
+and I wore good clothes that had never been slept in. And yet I
+ran&mdash;blindly, madly, like a startled deer, for over a block. And when I
+came to myself, I noted that I was still running. It required a positive
+effort of will to stop those legs of mine.</p>
+
+<p>No, I'll never get over it. I can't help it. When a bull reaches, I run.
+Besides, I have an unhappy faculty for getting into jail. I have been in
+jail more times since I was a hobo than when I was one. I start out on a
+Sunday morning with a young lady on a bicycle ride. Before we can get
+outside the city limits we are arrested for passing a pedestrian on the
+sidewalk. I resolve to be more careful. The next time I am on a bicycle
+it is night-time and my acetylene-gas-lamp is misbehaving. I cherish the
+sickly flame carefully, because of the ordinance. I am in a hurry, but I
+ride at a snail's pace so as not to jar out the flickering flame. I reach
+the city limits; I am beyond the jurisdiction of the ordinance; and I
+proceed to scorch to make up for lost time. And half a mile farther on I
+am &quot;pinched&quot; by a bull, and the next morning I forfeit my bail in the
+police court. The city had treacherously extended its limits into a mile
+of the country, and I didn't know, that was all. I remember my inalienable
+right of free speech and peaceable assemblage, and I get up on a soap-box
+to trot out the particular economic bees that buzz in my bonnet, and a
+bull takes me off that box and leads me to the city prison, and after that
+I get out on bail. It's no use. In Korea I used to be arrested about every
+other day. It was the same thing in Manchuria. The last time I was in
+Japan I broke into jail under the pretext of being a Russian spy. It
+wasn't my pretext, but it got me into jail just the same. There is no hope
+for me. I am fated to do the Prisoner-of-Chillon stunt yet. This is
+prophecy.</p>
+
+<p>I once hypnotized a bull on Boston Common. It was past midnight and he had
+me dead to rights; but before I got done with him he had ponied up a
+silver quarter and given me the address of an all-night restaurant. Then
+there was a bull in Bristol, New Jersey, who caught me and let me go, and
+heaven knows he had provocation enough to put me in jail. I hit him the
+hardest I'll wager he was ever hit in his life. It happened this way.
+About midnight I nailed a freight out of Philadelphia. The shacks ditched
+me. She was pulling out slowly through the maze of tracks and switches of
+the freight-yards. I nailed her again, and again I was ditched. You see, I
+had to nail her &quot;outside,&quot; for she was a through freight with every door
+locked and sealed.</p>
+
+<p>The second time I was ditched the shack gave me a lecture. He told me I
+was risking my life, that it was a fast freight and that she went some. I
+told him I was used to going some myself, but it was no go. He said he
+wouldn't permit me to commit suicide, and I hit the grit. But I nailed her
+a third time, getting in between on the bumpers. They were the most meagre
+bumpers I had ever seen&mdash;I do not refer to the real bumpers, the iron
+bumpers that are connected by the coupling-link and that pound and grind
+on each other; what I refer to are the beams, like huge cleats, that cross
+the ends of freight cars just above the bumpers. When one rides the
+bumpers, he stands on these cleats, one foot on each, the bumpers between
+his feet and just beneath.</p>
+
+<p>But the beams or cleats I found myself on were not the broad, generous
+ones that at that time were usually on box-cars. On the contrary, they
+were very narrow&mdash;not more than an inch and a half in breadth. I couldn't
+get half of the width of my sole on them. Then there was nothing to which
+to hold with my hands. True, there were the ends of the two box-cars; but
+those ends were flat, perpendicular surfaces. There were no grips. I could
+only press the flats of my palms against the car-ends for support. But
+that would have been all right if the cleats for my feet had been decently
+wide.</p>
+
+<p>As the freight got out of Philadelphia she began to hit up speed. Then I
+understood what the shack had meant by suicide. The freight went faster
+and faster. She was a through freight, and there was nothing to stop her.
+On that section of the Pennsylvania four tracks run side by side, and my
+east-bound freight didn't need to worry about passing west-bound freights,
+nor about being overtaken by east-bound expresses. She had the track to
+herself, and she used it. I was in a precarious situation. I stood with
+the mere edges of my feet on the narrow projections, the palms of my hands
+pressing desperately against the flat, perpendicular ends of each car. And
+those cars moved, and moved individually, up and down and back and forth.
+Did you ever see a circus rider, standing on two running horses, with one
+foot on the back of each horse? Well, that was what I was doing, with
+several differences. The circus rider had the reins to hold on to, while I
+had nothing; he stood on the broad soles of his feet, while I stood on the
+edges of mine; he bent his legs and body, gaining the strength of the arch
+in his posture and achieving the stability of a low centre of gravity,
+while I was compelled to stand upright and keep my legs straight; he rode
+face forward, while I was riding sidewise; and also, if he fell off, he'd
+get only a roll in the sawdust, while I'd have been ground to pieces
+beneath the wheels.</p>
+
+<p>And that freight was certainly going some, roaring and shrieking,
+swinging madly around curves, thundering over trestles, one car-end
+bumping up when the other was jarring down, or jerking to the right at the
+same moment the other was lurching to the left, and with me all the while
+praying and hoping for the train to stop. But she didn't stop. She didn't
+have to. For the first, last, and only time on The Road, I got all I
+wanted. I abandoned the bumpers and managed to get out on a side-ladder;
+it was ticklish work, for I had never encountered car-ends that were so
+parsimonious of hand-holds and foot-holds as those car-ends were.</p>
+
+<p>I heard the engine whistling, and I felt the speed easing down. I knew the
+train wasn't going to stop, but my mind was made up to chance it if she
+slowed down sufficiently. The right of way at this point took a curve,
+crossed a bridge over a canal, and cut through the town of Bristol. This
+combination compelled slow speed. I clung on to the side-ladder and
+waited. I didn't know it was the town of Bristol we were approaching. I
+did not know what necessitated slackening in speed. All I knew was that I
+wanted to get off. I strained my eyes in the darkness for a
+street-crossing on which to land. I was pretty well down the train, and
+before my car was in the town the engine was past the station and I could
+feel her making speed again.</p>
+
+<p>Then came the street. It was too dark to see how wide it was or what was
+on the other side. I knew I needed all of that street if I was to remain
+on my feet after I struck. I dropped off on the near side. It sounds easy.
+By &quot;dropped off&quot; I mean just this: I first of all, on the side-ladder,
+thrust my body forward as far as I could in the direction the train was
+going&mdash;this to give as much space as possible in which to gain backward
+momentum when I swung off. Then I swung, swung out and backward, backward
+with all my might, and let go&mdash;at the same time throwing myself backward
+as if I intended to strike the ground on the back of my head. The whole
+effort was to overcome as much as possible the primary forward momentum
+the train had imparted to my body. When my feet hit the grit, my body was
+lying backward on the air at an angle of forty-five degrees. I had reduced
+the forward momentum some, for when my feet struck, I did not immediately
+pitch forward on my face. Instead, my body rose to the perpendicular and
+began to incline forward. In point of fact, my body proper still retained
+much momentum, while my feet, through contact with the earth, had lost all
+their momentum. This momentum the feet had lost I had to supply anew by
+lifting them as rapidly as I could and running them forward in order to
+keep them under my forward-moving body. The result was that my feet beat a
+rapid and explosive tattoo clear across the street. I didn't dare stop
+them. If I had, I'd have pitched forward. It was up to me to keep on
+going.</p>
+
+<p>I was an involuntary projectile, worrying about what was on the other side
+of the street and hoping that it wouldn't be a stone wall or a telegraph
+pole. And just then I hit something. Horrors! I saw it just the instant
+before the disaster&mdash;of all things, a bull, standing there in the
+darkness. We went down together, rolling over and over; and the automatic
+process was such in that miserable creature that in the moment of impact
+he reached out and clutched me and never let go. We were both knocked out,
+and he held on to a very lamb-like hobo while he recovered.</p>
+
+<p>If that bull had any imagination, he must have thought me a traveller from
+other worlds, the man from Mars just arriving; for in the darkness he
+hadn't seen me swing from the train. In fact, his first words were: &quot;Where
+did you come from?&quot; His next words, and before I had time to answer, were:
+&quot;I've a good mind to run you in.&quot; This latter, I am convinced, was
+likewise automatic. He was a really good bull at heart, for after I had
+told him a &quot;story&quot; and helped brush off his clothes, he gave me until the
+next freight to get out of town. I stipulated two things: first, that the
+freight be east-bound, and second, that it should not be a through freight
+with all doors sealed and locked. To this he agreed, and thus, by the
+terms of the Treaty of Bristol, I escaped being pinched.</p>
+
+<p>I remember another night, in that part of the country, when I just missed
+another bull. If I had hit him, I'd have telescoped him, for I was coming
+down from above, all holds free, with several other bulls one jump behind
+and reaching for me. This is how it happened. I had been lodging in a
+livery stable in Washington. I had a box-stall and unnumbered
+horse-blankets all to myself. In return for such sumptuous accommodation I
+took care of a string of horses each morning. I might have been there yet,
+if it hadn't been for the bulls.</p>
+
+<p>One evening, about nine o'clock, I returned to the stable to go to bed,
+and found a crap game in full blast. It had been a market day, and all the
+negroes had money. It would be well to explain the lay of the land. The
+livery stable faced on two streets. I entered the front, passed through
+the office, and came to the alley between two rows of stalls that ran the
+length of the building and opened out on the other street. Midway along
+this alley, beneath a gas-jet and between the rows of horses, were about
+forty negroes. I joined them as an onlooker. I was broke and couldn't
+play. A coon was making passes and not dragging down. He was riding his
+luck, and with each pass the total stake doubled. All kinds of money lay
+on the floor. It was fascinating. With each pass, the chances increased
+tremendously against the coon making another pass. The excitement was
+intense. And just then there came a thundering smash on the big doors that
+opened on the back street.</p>
+
+<p>A few of the negroes bolted in the opposite direction. I paused from my
+flight a moment to grab at the all kinds of money on the floor. This
+wasn't theft: it was merely custom. Every man who hadn't run was grabbing.
+The doors crashed open and swung in, and through them surged a squad of
+bulls. We surged the other way. It was dark in the office, and the narrow
+door would not permit all of us to pass out to the street at the same
+time. Things became congested. A coon took a dive through the window,
+taking the sash along with him and followed by other coons. At our rear,
+the bulls were nailing prisoners. A big coon and myself made a dash at the
+door at the same time. He was bigger than I, and he pivoted me and got
+through first. The next instant a club swatted him on the head and he went
+down like a steer. Another squad of bulls was waiting outside for us. They
+knew they couldn't stop the rush with their hands, and so they were
+swinging their clubs. I stumbled over the fallen coon who had pivoted me,
+ducked a swat from a club, dived between a bull's legs, and was free. And
+then how I ran! There was a lean mulatto just in front of me, and I took
+his pace. He knew the town better than I did, and I knew that in the way
+he ran lay safety. But he, on the other hand, took me for a pursuing bull.
+He never looked around. He just ran. My wind was good, and I hung on to
+his pace and nearly killed him. In the end he stumbled weakly, went down
+on his knees, and surrendered to me. And when he discovered I wasn't a
+bull, all that saved me was that he didn't have any wind left in him.</p>
+
+<p>That was why I left Washington&mdash;not on account of the mulatto, but on
+account of the bulls. I went down to the depot and caught the first blind
+out on a Pennsylvania Railroad express. After the train got good and under
+way and I noted the speed she was making, a misgiving smote me. This was a
+four-track railroad, and the engines took water on the fly. Hoboes had
+long since warned me never to ride the first blind on trains where the
+engines took water on the fly. And now let me explain. Between the tracks
+are shallow metal troughs. As the engine, at full speed, passes above, a
+sort of chute drops down into the trough. The result is that all the water
+in the trough rushes up the chute and fills the tender.</p>
+
+<p>Somewhere along between Washington and Baltimore, as I sat on the platform
+of the blind, a fine spray began to fill the air. It did no harm. Ah, ha,
+thought I; it's all a bluff, this taking water on the fly being bad for
+the bo on the first blind. What does this little spray amount to? Then I
+began to marvel at the device. This was railroading! Talk about your
+primitive Western railroading&mdash;and just then the tender filled up, and it
+hadn't reached the end of the trough. A tidal wave of water poured over
+the back of the tender and down upon me. I was soaked to the skin, as wet
+as if I had fallen overboard.</p>
+
+<p>The train pulled into Baltimore. As is the custom in the great Eastern
+cities, the railroad ran beneath the level of the streets on the bottom of
+a big &quot;cut.&quot; As the train pulled into the lighted depot, I made myself as
+small as possible on the blind. But a railroad bull saw me, and gave
+chase. Two more joined him. I was past the depot, and I ran straight on
+down the track. I was in a sort of trap. On each side of me rose the steep
+walls of the cut, and if I ever essayed them and failed, I knew that I'd
+slide back into the clutches of the bulls. I ran on and on, studying the
+walls of the cut for a favorable place to climb up. At last I saw such a
+place. It came just after I had passed under a bridge that carried a level
+street across the cut. Up the steep slope I went, clawing hand and foot.
+The three railroad bulls were clawing up right after me.</p>
+
+<p>At the top, I found myself in a vacant lot. On one side was a low wall
+that separated it from the street. There was no time for minute
+investigation. They were at my heels. I headed for the wall and vaulted
+it. And right there was where I got the surprise of my life. One is used
+to thinking that one side of a wall is just as high as the other side. But
+that wall was different. You see, the vacant lot was much higher than the
+level of the street. On my side the wall was low, but on the other
+side&mdash;well, as I came soaring over the top, all holds free, it seemed to
+me that I was falling feet-first, plump into an abyss. There beneath me,
+on the sidewalk, under the light of a street-lamp was a bull. I guess it
+was nine or ten feet down to the sidewalk; but in the shock of surprise in
+mid-air it seemed twice that distance.</p>
+
+<p>I straightened out in the air and came down. At first I thought I was
+going to land on the bull. My clothes did brush him as my feet struck the
+sidewalk with explosive impact. It was a wonder he didn't drop dead, for
+he hadn't heard me coming. It was the man-from-Mars stunt over again. The
+bull did jump. He shied away from me like a horse from an auto; and then
+he reached for me. I didn't stop to explain. I left that to my pursuers,
+who were dropping over the wall rather gingerly. But I got a chase all
+right. I ran up one street and down another, dodged around corners, and at
+last got away.</p>
+
+<p>After spending some of the coin I'd got from the crap game and killing off
+an hour of time, I came back to the railroad cut, just outside the lights
+of the depot, and waited for a train. My blood had cooled down, and I
+shivered miserably, what of my wet clothes. At last a train pulled into
+the station. I lay low in the darkness, and successfully boarded her when
+she pulled out, taking good care this time to make the second blind. No
+more water on the fly in mine. The train ran forty miles to the first
+stop. I got off in a lighted depot that was strangely familiar. I was back
+in Washington. In some way, during the excitement of the get-away in
+Baltimore, running through strange streets, dodging and turning and
+retracing, I had got turned around. I had taken the train out the wrong
+way. I had lost a night's sleep, I had been soaked to the skin, I had been
+chased for my life; and for all my pains I was back where I had started.
+Oh, no, life on The Road is not all beer and skittles. But I didn't go
+back to the livery stable. I had done some pretty successful grabbing, and
+I didn't want to reckon up with the coons. So I caught the next train out,
+and ate my breakfast in Baltimore.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ROAD***</p>
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Road, by Jack London
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: The Road
+
+Author: Jack London
+
+Release Date: January 10, 2005 [eBook #14658]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ROAD***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Suzanne Shell, Diane Monico, and the Project Gutenberg
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team (www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+THE ROAD
+
+by
+
+JACK LONDON
+
+(New York: Macmillan)
+
+1907
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TO
+
+JOSIAH FLYNT
+
+The Real Thing, Blowed in the Glass
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+ CONFESSION
+
+ HOLDING HER DOWN
+
+ PICTURES
+
+ "PINCHED"
+
+ THE PEN
+
+ HOBOES THAT PASS IN THE NIGHT
+
+ ROAD-KIDS AND GAY-CATS
+
+ TWO THOUSAND STIFFS
+
+ BULLS
+
+
+
+
+ "Speakin' in general, I 'ave tried 'em all,
+ The 'appy roads that take you o'er the world.
+ Speakin' in general, I 'ave found them good
+ For such as cannot use one bed too long,
+ But must get 'ence, the same as I 'ave done,
+ An' go observin' matters till they die."
+
+ --Sestina of the Tramp-Royal
+
+
+
+
+CONFESSION
+
+
+There is a woman in the state of Nevada to whom I once lied
+continuously, consistently, and shamelessly, for the matter of a
+couple of hours. I don't want to apologize to her. Far be it from me.
+But I do want to explain. Unfortunately, I do not know her name, much
+less her present address. If her eyes should chance upon these lines,
+I hope she will write to me.
+
+It was in Reno, Nevada, in the summer of 1892. Also, it was fair-time,
+and the town was filled with petty crooks and tin-horns, to say
+nothing of a vast and hungry horde of hoboes. It was the hungry hoboes
+that made the town a "hungry" town. They "battered" the back doors of
+the homes of the citizens until the back doors became unresponsive.
+
+A hard town for "scoffings," was what the hoboes called it at that
+time. I know that I missed many a meal, in spite of the fact that I
+could "throw my feet" with the next one when it came to "slamming a
+gate" for a "poke-out" or a "set-down," or hitting for a "light piece"
+on the street. Why, I was so hard put in that town, one day, that I
+gave the porter the slip and invaded the private car of some itinerant
+millionnaire. The train started as I made the platform, and I headed
+for the aforesaid millionnaire with the porter one jump behind and
+reaching for me. It was a dead heat, for I reached the millionnaire at
+the same instant that the porter reached me. I had no time for
+formalities. "Gimme a quarter to eat on," I blurted out. And as I
+live, that millionnaire dipped into his pocket and gave me ... just
+... precisely ... a quarter. It is my conviction that he was so
+flabbergasted that he obeyed automatically, and it has been a matter
+of keen regret ever since, on my part, that I didn't ask him for a
+dollar. I know that I'd have got it. I swung off the platform of that
+private car with the porter manoeuvring to kick me in the face. He
+missed me. One is at a terrible disadvantage when trying to swing off
+the lowest step of a car and not break his neck on the right of way,
+with, at the same time, an irate Ethiopian on the platform above
+trying to land him in the face with a number eleven. But I got the
+quarter! I got it!
+
+But to return to the woman to whom I so shamelessly lied. It was in
+the evening of my last day in Reno. I had been out to the race-track
+watching the ponies run, and had missed my dinner (_i.e._ the mid-day
+meal). I was hungry, and, furthermore, a committee of public safety
+had just been organized to rid the town of just such hungry mortals as
+I. Already a lot of my brother hoboes had been gathered in by John
+Law, and I could hear the sunny valleys of California calling to me
+over the cold crests of the Sierras. Two acts remained for me to
+perform before I shook the dust of Reno from my feet. One was to catch
+the blind baggage on the westbound overland that night. The other was
+first to get something to eat. Even youth will hesitate at an
+all-night ride, on an empty stomach, outside a train that is tearing
+the atmosphere through the snow-sheds, tunnels, and eternal snows of
+heaven-aspiring mountains.
+
+But that something to eat was a hard proposition. I was "turned down"
+at a dozen houses. Sometimes I received insulting remarks and was
+informed of the barred domicile that should be mine if I had my just
+deserts. The worst of it was that such assertions were only too true.
+That was why I was pulling west that night. John Law was abroad in the
+town, seeking eagerly for the hungry and homeless, for by such was his
+barred domicile tenanted.
+
+At other houses the doors were slammed in my face, cutting short my
+politely and humbly couched request for something to eat. At one house
+they did not open the door. I stood on the porch and knocked, and they
+looked out at me through the window. They even held one sturdy little
+boy aloft so that he could see over the shoulders of his elders the
+tramp who wasn't going to get anything to eat at their house.
+
+It began to look as if I should be compelled to go to the very poor
+for my food. The very poor constitute the last sure recourse of the
+hungry tramp. The very poor can always be depended upon. They never
+turn away the hungry. Time and again, all over the United States, have
+I been refused food by the big house on the hill; and always have I
+received food from the little shack down by the creek or marsh, with
+its broken windows stuffed with rags and its tired-faced mother broken
+with labor. Oh, you charity-mongers! Go to the poor and learn, for the
+poor alone are the charitable. They neither give nor withhold from
+their excess. They have no excess. They give, and they withhold never,
+from what they need for themselves, and very often from what they
+cruelly need for themselves. A bone to the dog is not charity. Charity
+is the bone shared with the dog when you are just as hungry as the
+dog.
+
+There was one house in particular where I was turned down that
+evening. The porch windows opened on the dining room, and through them
+I saw a man eating pie--a big meat-pie. I stood in the open door, and
+while he talked with me, he went on eating. He was prosperous, and out
+of his prosperity had been bred resentment against his less fortunate
+brothers.
+
+He cut short my request for something to eat, snapping out, "I don't
+believe you want to work."
+
+Now this was irrelevant. I hadn't said anything about work. The topic
+of conversation I had introduced was "food." In fact, I didn't want to
+work. I wanted to take the westbound overland that night.
+
+"You wouldn't work if you had a chance," he bullied.
+
+I glanced at his meek-faced wife, and knew that but for the presence
+of this Cerberus I'd have a whack at that meat-pie myself. But
+Cerberus sopped himself in the pie, and I saw that I must placate him
+if I were to get a share of it. So I sighed to myself and accepted his
+work-morality.
+
+"Of course I want work," I bluffed.
+
+"Don't believe it," he snorted.
+
+"Try me," I answered, warming to the bluff.
+
+"All right," he said. "Come to the corner of blank and blank
+streets"--(I have forgotten the address)--"to-morrow morning. You know
+where that burned building is, and I'll put you to work tossing
+bricks."
+
+"All right, sir; I'll be there."
+
+He grunted and went on eating. I waited. After a couple of minutes he
+looked up with an I-thought-you-were-gone expression on his face, and
+demanded:--
+
+"Well?"
+
+"I ... I am waiting for something to eat," I said gently.
+
+"I knew you wouldn't work!" he roared.
+
+He was right, of course; but his conclusion must have been reached by
+mind-reading, for his logic wouldn't bear it out. But the beggar at
+the door must be humble, so I accepted his logic as I had accepted his
+morality.
+
+"You see, I am now hungry," I said still gently. "To-morrow morning I
+shall be hungrier. Think how hungry I shall be when I have tossed
+bricks all day without anything to eat. Now if you will give me
+something to eat, I'll be in great shape for those bricks."
+
+He gravely considered my plea, at the same time going on eating, while
+his wife nearly trembled into propitiatory speech, but refrained.
+
+"I'll tell you what I'll do," he said between mouthfuls. "You come to
+work to-morrow, and in the middle of the day I'll advance you enough
+for your dinner. That will show whether you are in earnest or not."
+
+"In the meantime--" I began; but he interrupted.
+
+"If I gave you something to eat now, I'd never see you again. Oh, I
+know your kind. Look at me. I owe no man. I have never descended so
+low as to ask any one for food. I have always earned my food. The
+trouble with you is that you are idle and dissolute. I can see it in
+your face. I have worked and been honest. I have made myself what I
+am. And you can do the same, if you work and are honest."
+
+"Like you?" I queried.
+
+Alas, no ray of humor had ever penetrated the sombre work-sodden soul
+of that man.
+
+"Yes, like me," he answered.
+
+"All of us?" I queried.
+
+"Yes, all of you," he answered, conviction vibrating in his voice.
+
+"But if we all became like you," I said, "allow me to point out that
+there'd be nobody to toss bricks for you."
+
+I swear there was a flicker of a smile in his wife's eye. As for him,
+he was aghast--but whether at the awful possibility of a reformed
+humanity that would not enable him to get anybody to toss bricks for
+him, or at my impudence, I shall never know.
+
+"I'll not waste words on you," he roared. "Get out of here, you
+ungrateful whelp!"
+
+I scraped my feet to advertise my intention of going, and queried:--
+
+"And I don't get anything to eat?"
+
+He arose suddenly to his feet. He was a large man. I was a stranger in
+a strange land, and John Law was looking for me. I went away
+hurriedly. "But why ungrateful?" I asked myself as I slammed his gate.
+"What in the dickens did he give me to be ungrateful about?" I looked
+back. I could still see him through the window. He had returned to his
+pie.
+
+By this time I had lost heart. I passed many houses by without
+venturing up to them. All houses looked alike, and none looked "good."
+After walking half a dozen blocks I shook off my despondency and
+gathered my "nerve." This begging for food was all a game, and if I
+didn't like the cards, I could always call for a new deal. I made up
+my mind to tackle the next house. I approached it in the deepening
+twilight, going around to the kitchen door.
+
+I knocked softly, and when I saw the kind face of the middle-aged
+woman who answered, as by inspiration came to me the "story" I was to
+tell. For know that upon his ability to tell a good story depends the
+success of the beggar. First of all, and on the instant, the beggar
+must "size up" his victim. After that, he must tell a story that will
+appeal to the peculiar personality and temperament of that particular
+victim. And right here arises the great difficulty: in the instant
+that he is sizing up the victim he must begin his story. Not a minute
+is allowed for preparation. As in a lightning flash he must divine the
+nature of the victim and conceive a tale that will hit home. The
+successful hobo must be an artist. He must create spontaneously and
+instantaneously--and not upon a theme selected from the plenitude of
+his own imagination, but upon the theme he reads in the face of the
+person who opens the door, be it man, woman, or child, sweet or
+crabbed, generous or miserly, good-natured or cantankerous, Jew or
+Gentile, black or white, race-prejudiced or brotherly, provincial or
+universal, or whatever else it may be. I have often thought that to
+this training of my tramp days is due much of my success as a
+story-writer. In order to get the food whereby I lived, I was
+compelled to tell tales that rang true. At the back door, out of
+inexorable necessity, is developed the convincingness and sincerity
+laid down by all authorities on the art of the short-story. Also, I
+quite believe it was my tramp-apprenticeship that made a realist out
+of me. Realism constitutes the only goods one can exchange at the
+kitchen door for grub.
+
+After all, art is only consummate artfulness, and artfulness saves
+many a "story." I remember lying in a police station at Winnipeg,
+Manitoba. I was bound west over the Canadian Pacific. Of course, the
+police wanted my story, and I gave it to them--on the spur of the
+moment. They were landlubbers, in the heart of the continent, and what
+better story for them than a sea story? They could never trip me up on
+that. And so I told a tearful tale of my life on the hell-ship
+_Glenmore_. (I had once seen the _Glenmore_ lying at anchor in San
+Francisco Bay.)
+
+I was an English apprentice, I said. And they said that I didn't talk
+like an English boy. It was up to me to create on the instant. I had
+been born and reared in the United States. On the death of my parents,
+I had been sent to England to my grandparents. It was they who had
+apprenticed me on the _Glenmore_. I hope the captain of the _Glenmore_
+will forgive me, for I gave him a character that night in the Winnipeg
+police station. Such cruelty! Such brutality! Such diabolical
+ingenuity of torture! It explained why I had deserted the _Glenmore_
+at Montreal.
+
+But why was I in the middle of Canada going west, when my grandparents
+lived in England? Promptly I created a married sister who lived in
+California. She would take care of me. I developed at length her
+loving nature. But they were not done with me, those hard-hearted
+policemen. I had joined the _Glenmore_ in England; in the two years
+that had elapsed before my desertion at Montreal, what had the
+_Glenmore_ done and where had she been? And thereat I took those
+landlubbers around the world with me. Buffeted by pounding seas and
+stung with flying spray, they fought a typhoon with me off the coast
+of Japan. They loaded and unloaded cargo with me in all the ports of
+the Seven Seas. I took them to India, and Rangoon, and China, and had
+them hammer ice with me around the Horn and at last come to moorings
+at Montreal.
+
+And then they said to wait a moment, and one policeman went forth into
+the night while I warmed myself at the stove, all the while racking my
+brains for the trap they were going to spring on me.
+
+I groaned to myself when I saw him come in the door at the heels of
+the policeman. No gypsy prank had thrust those tiny hoops of gold
+through the ears; no prairie winds had beaten that skin into wrinkled
+leather; nor had snow-drift and mountain-slope put in his walk that
+reminiscent roll. And in those eyes, when they looked at me, I saw the
+unmistakable sun-wash of the sea. Here was a theme, alas! with half a
+dozen policemen to watch me read--I who had never sailed the China
+seas, nor been around the Horn, nor looked with my eyes upon India and
+Rangoon.
+
+I was desperate. Disaster stalked before me incarnate in the form of
+that gold-ear-ringed, weather-beaten son of the sea. Who was he? What
+was he? I must solve him ere he solved me. I must take a new
+orientation, or else those wicked policemen would orientate me to a
+cell, a police court, and more cells. If he questioned me first,
+before I knew how much he knew, I was lost.
+
+But did I betray my desperate plight to those lynx-eyed guardians of
+the public welfare of Winnipeg? Not I. I met that aged sailorman
+glad-eyed and beaming, with all the simulated relief at deliverance
+that a drowning man would display on finding a life-preserver in his
+last despairing clutch. Here was a man who understood and who would
+verify my true story to the faces of those sleuth-hounds who did not
+understand, or, at least, such was what I endeavored to play-act. I
+seized upon him; I volleyed him with questions about himself. Before
+my judges I would prove the character of my savior before he saved me.
+
+He was a kindly sailorman--an "easy mark." The policemen grew
+impatient while I questioned him. At last one of them told me to shut
+up. I shut up; but while I remained shut up, I was busy creating, busy
+sketching the scenario of the next act. I had learned enough to go on
+with. He was a Frenchman. He had sailed always on French merchant
+vessels, with the one exception of a voyage on a "lime-juicer." And
+last of all--blessed fact!--he had not been on the sea for twenty
+years.
+
+The policeman urged him on to examine me.
+
+"You called in at Rangoon?" he queried.
+
+I nodded. "We put our third mate ashore there. Fever."
+
+If he had asked me what kind of fever, I should have answered,
+"Enteric," though for the life of me I didn't know what enteric was.
+But he didn't ask me. Instead, his next question was:--
+
+"And how is Rangoon?"
+
+"All right. It rained a whole lot when we were there."
+
+"Did you get shore-leave?"
+
+"Sure," I answered. "Three of us apprentices went ashore together."
+
+"Do you remember the temple?"
+
+"Which temple?" I parried.
+
+"The big one, at the top of the stairway."
+
+If I remembered that temple, I knew I'd have to describe it. The gulf
+yawned for me.
+
+I shook my head.
+
+"You can see it from all over the harbor," he informed me. "You don't
+need shore-leave to see that temple."
+
+I never loathed a temple so in my life. But I fixed that particular
+temple at Rangoon.
+
+"You can't see it from the harbor," I contradicted. "You can't see it
+from the town. You can't see it from the top of the stairway.
+Because--" I paused for the effect. "Because there isn't any temple
+there."
+
+"But I saw it with my own eyes!" he cried.
+
+"That was in--?" I queried.
+
+"Seventy-one."
+
+"It was destroyed in the great earthquake of 1887," I explained. "It
+was very old."
+
+There was a pause. He was busy reconstructing in his old eyes the
+youthful vision of that fair temple by the sea.
+
+"The stairway is still there," I aided him. "You can see it from all
+over the harbor. And you remember that little island on the right-hand
+side coming into the harbor?" I guess there must have been one there
+(I was prepared to shift it over to the left-hand side), for he
+nodded. "Gone," I said. "Seven fathoms of water there now."
+
+I had gained a moment for breath. While he pondered on time's changes,
+I prepared the finishing touches of my story.
+
+"You remember the custom-house at Bombay?"
+
+He remembered it.
+
+"Burned to the ground," I announced.
+
+"Do you remember Jim Wan?" he came back at me.
+
+"Dead," I said; but who the devil Jim Wan was I hadn't the slightest
+idea.
+
+I was on thin ice again.
+
+"Do you remember Billy Harper, at Shanghai?" I queried back at him
+quickly.
+
+That aged sailorman worked hard to recollect, but the Billy Harper of
+my imagination was beyond his faded memory.
+
+"Of course you remember Billy Harper," I insisted. "Everybody knows
+him. He's been there forty years. Well, he's still there, that's all."
+
+And then the miracle happened. The sailorman remembered Billy Harper.
+Perhaps there was a Billy Harper, and perhaps he had been in Shanghai
+for forty years and was still there; but it was news to me.
+
+For fully half an hour longer, the sailorman and I talked on in
+similar fashion. In the end he told the policemen that I was what I
+represented myself to be, and after a night's lodging and a breakfast
+I was released to wander on westward to my married sister in San
+Francisco.
+
+But to return to the woman in Reno who opened her door to me in the
+deepening twilight. At the first glimpse of her kindly face I took my
+cue. I became a sweet, innocent, unfortunate lad. I couldn't speak. I
+opened my mouth and closed it again. Never in my life before had I
+asked any one for food. My embarrassment was painful, extreme. I was
+ashamed. I, who looked upon begging as a delightful whimsicality,
+thumbed myself over into a true son of Mrs. Grundy, burdened with all
+her bourgeois morality. Only the harsh pangs of the belly-need could
+compel me to do so degraded and ignoble a thing as beg for food. And
+into my face I strove to throw all the wan wistfulness of famished and
+ingenuous youth unused to mendicancy.
+
+"You are hungry, my poor boy," she said.
+
+I had made her speak first.
+
+I nodded my head and gulped.
+
+"It is the first time I have ever ... asked," I faltered.
+
+"Come right in." The door swung open. "We have already finished
+eating, but the fire is burning and I can get something up for you."
+
+She looked at me closely when she got me into the light.
+
+"I wish my boy were as healthy and strong as you," she said. "But he
+is not strong. He sometimes falls down. He just fell down this
+afternoon and hurt himself badly, the poor dear."
+
+She mothered him with her voice, with an ineffable tenderness in it
+that I yearned to appropriate. I glanced at him. He sat across the
+table, slender and pale, his head swathed in bandages. He did not
+move, but his eyes, bright in the lamplight, were fixed upon me in a
+steady and wondering stare.
+
+"Just like my poor father," I said. "He had the falling sickness. Some
+kind of vertigo. It puzzled the doctors. They never could make out
+what was the matter with him."
+
+"He is dead?" she queried gently, setting before me half a dozen
+soft-boiled eggs.
+
+"Dead," I gulped. "Two weeks ago. I was with him when it happened. We
+were crossing the street together. He fell right down. He was never
+conscious again. They carried him into a drug-store. He died there."
+
+And thereat I developed the pitiful tale of my father--how, after my
+mother's death, he and I had gone to San Francisco from the ranch; how
+his pension (he was an old soldier), and the little other money he
+had, was not enough; and how he had tried book-canvassing. Also, I
+narrated my own woes during the few days after his death that I had
+spent alone and forlorn on the streets of San Francisco. While that
+good woman warmed up biscuits, fried bacon, and cooked more eggs, and
+while I kept pace with her in taking care of all that she placed
+before me, I enlarged the picture of that poor orphan boy and filled
+in the details. I became that poor boy. I believed in him as I
+believed in the beautiful eggs I was devouring. I could have wept for
+myself. I know the tears did get into my voice at times. It was very
+effective.
+
+In fact, with every touch I added to the picture, that kind soul gave
+me something also. She made up a lunch for me to carry away. She put
+in many boiled eggs, pepper and salt, and other things, and a big
+apple. She provided me with three pairs of thick red woollen socks.
+She gave me clean handkerchiefs and other things which I have since
+forgotten. And all the time she cooked more and more and I ate more
+and more. I gorged like a savage; but then it was a far cry across the
+Sierras on a blind baggage, and I knew not when nor where I should
+find my next meal. And all the while, like a death's-head at the
+feast, silent and motionless, her own unfortunate boy sat and stared
+at me across the table. I suppose I represented to him mystery, and
+romance, and adventure--all that was denied the feeble flicker of life
+that was in him. And yet I could not forbear, once or twice, from
+wondering if he saw through me down to the bottom of my mendacious
+heart.
+
+"But where are you going to?" she asked me.
+
+"Salt Lake City," said I. "I have a sister there--a married sister."
+(I debated if I should make a Mormon out of her, and decided against
+it.) "Her husband is a plumber--a contracting plumber."
+
+Now I knew that contracting plumbers were usually credited with making
+lots of money. But I had spoken. It was up to me to qualify.
+
+"They would have sent me the money for my fare if I had asked for it,"
+I explained, "but they have had sickness and business troubles. His
+partner cheated him. And so I wouldn't write for the money. I knew I
+could make my way there somehow. I let them think I had enough to get
+me to Salt Lake City. She is lovely, and so kind. She was always kind
+to me. I guess I'll go into the shop and learn the trade. She has two
+daughters. They are younger than I. One is only a baby."
+
+Of all my married sisters that I have distributed among the cities of
+the United States, that Salt Lake sister is my favorite. She is quite
+real, too. When I tell about her, I can see her, and her two little
+girls, and her plumber husband. She is a large, motherly woman, just
+verging on beneficent stoutness--the kind, you know, that always cooks
+nice things and that never gets angry. She is a brunette. Her husband
+is a quiet, easy-going fellow. Sometimes I almost know him quite
+well. And who knows but some day I may meet him? If that aged
+sailorman could remember Billy Harper, I see no reason why I should
+not some day meet the husband of my sister who lives in Salt Lake
+City.
+
+On the other hand, I have a feeling of certitude within me that I
+shall never meet in the flesh my many parents and grandparents--you
+see, I invariably killed them off. Heart disease was my favorite way
+of getting rid of my mother, though on occasion I did away with her by
+means of consumption, pneumonia, and typhoid fever. It is true, as the
+Winnipeg policemen will attest, that I have grandparents living in
+England; but that was a long time ago and it is a fair assumption that
+they are dead by now. At any rate, they have never written to me.
+
+I hope that woman in Reno will read these lines and forgive me my
+gracelessness and unveracity. I do not apologize, for I am unashamed.
+It was youth, delight in life, zest for experience, that brought me to
+her door. It did me good. It taught me the intrinsic kindliness of
+human nature. I hope it did her good. Anyway, she may get a good laugh
+out of it now that she learns the real inwardness of the situation.
+
+To her my story was "true." She believed in me and all my family, and
+she was filled with solicitude for the dangerous journey I must make
+ere I won to Salt Lake City. This solicitude nearly brought me to
+grief. Just as I was leaving, my arms full of lunch and my pockets
+bulging with fat woollen socks, she bethought herself of a nephew, or
+uncle, or relative of some sort, who was in the railway mail service,
+and who, moreover, would come through that night on the very train on
+which I was going to steal my ride. The very thing! She would take me
+down to the depot, tell him my story, and get him to hide me in the
+mail car. Thus, without danger or hardship, I would be carried
+straight through to Ogden. Salt Lake City was only a few miles farther
+on. My heart sank. She grew excited as she developed the plan and with
+my sinking heart I had to feign unbounded gladness and enthusiasm at
+this solution of my difficulties.
+
+Solution! Why I was bound west that night, and here was I being
+trapped into going east. It _was_ a trap, and I hadn't the heart to
+tell her that it was all a miserable lie. And while I made believe
+that I was delighted, I was busy cudgelling my brains for some way to
+escape. But there was no way. She would see me into the mail-car--she
+said so herself--and then that mail-clerk relative of hers would carry
+me to Ogden. And then I would have to beat my way back over all those
+hundreds of miles of desert.
+
+But luck was with me that night. Just about the time she was getting
+ready to put on her bonnet and accompany me, she discovered that she
+had made a mistake. Her mail-clerk relative was not scheduled to come
+through that night. His run had been changed. He would not come
+through until two nights afterward. I was saved, for of course my
+boundless youth would never permit me to wait those two days. I
+optimistically assured her that I'd get to Salt Lake City quicker if I
+started immediately, and I departed with her blessings and best wishes
+ringing in my ears.
+
+But those woollen socks were great. I know. I wore a pair of them that
+night on the blind baggage of the overland, and that overland went
+west.
+
+
+
+
+HOLDING HER DOWN
+
+
+Barring accidents, a good hobo, with youth and agility, can hold a
+train down despite all the efforts of the train-crew to "ditch"
+him--given, of course, night-time as an essential condition. When such
+a hobo, under such conditions, makes up his mind that he is going to
+hold her down, either he does hold her down, or chance trips him up.
+There is no legitimate way, short of murder, whereby the train-crew
+can ditch him. That train-crews have not stopped short of murder is a
+current belief in the tramp world. Not having had that particular
+experience in my tramp days I cannot vouch for it personally.
+
+But this I have heard of the "bad" roads. When a tramp has "gone
+underneath," on the rods, and the train is in motion, there is
+apparently no way of dislodging him until the train stops. The tramp,
+snugly ensconced inside the truck, with the four wheels and all the
+framework around him, has the "cinch" on the crew--or so he thinks,
+until some day he rides the rods on a bad road. A bad road is usually
+one on which a short time previously one or several trainmen have been
+killed by tramps. Heaven pity the tramp who is caught "underneath" on
+such a road--for caught he is, though the train be going sixty miles
+an hour.
+
+The "shack" (brakeman) takes a coupling-pin and a length of bell-cord
+to the platform in front of the truck in which the tramp is riding.
+The shack fastens the coupling-pin to the bell-cord, drops the former
+down between the platforms, and pays out the latter. The coupling-pin
+strikes the ties between the rails, rebounds against the bottom of the
+car, and again strikes the ties. The shack plays it back and forth,
+now to this side, now to the other, lets it out a bit and hauls it in
+a bit, giving his weapon opportunity for every variety of impact and
+rebound. Every blow of that flying coupling-pin is freighted with
+death, and at sixty miles an hour it beats a veritable tattoo of
+death. The next day the remains of that tramp are gathered up along
+the right of way, and a line in the local paper mentions the unknown
+man, undoubtedly a tramp, assumably drunk, who had probably fallen
+asleep on the track.
+
+As a characteristic illustration of how a capable hobo can hold her
+down, I am minded to give the following experience. I was in Ottawa,
+bound west over the Canadian Pacific. Three thousand miles of that
+road stretched before me; it was the fall of the year, and I had to
+cross Manitoba and the Rocky Mountains. I could expect "crimpy"
+weather, and every moment of delay increased the frigid hardships of
+the journey. Furthermore, I was disgusted. The distance between
+Montreal and Ottawa is one hundred and twenty miles. I ought to know,
+for I had just come over it and it had taken me six days. By mistake I
+had missed the main line and come over a small "jerk" with only two
+locals a day on it. And during these six days I had lived on dry
+crusts, and not enough of them, begged from the French peasants.
+
+Furthermore, my disgust had been heightened by the one day I had spent
+in Ottawa trying to get an outfit of clothing for my long journey. Let
+me put it on record right here that Ottawa, with one exception, is the
+hardest town in the United States and Canada to beg clothes in; the
+one exception is Washington, D.C. The latter fair city is the limit. I
+spent two weeks there trying to beg a pair of shoes, and then had to
+go on to Jersey City before I got them.
+
+But to return to Ottawa. At eight sharp in the morning I started out
+after clothes. I worked energetically all day. I swear I walked forty
+miles. I interviewed the housewives of a thousand homes. I did not
+even knock off work for dinner. And at six in the afternoon, after ten
+hours of unremitting and depressing toil, I was still shy one shirt,
+while the pair of trousers I had managed to acquire was tight and,
+moreover, was showing all the signs of an early disintegration.
+
+At six I quit work and headed for the railroad yards, expecting to
+pick up something to eat on the way. But my hard luck was still with
+me. I was refused food at house after house. Then I got a "hand-out."
+My spirits soared, for it was the largest hand-out I had ever seen in
+a long and varied experience. It was a parcel wrapped in newspapers
+and as big as a mature suit-case. I hurried to a vacant lot and opened
+it. First, I saw cake, then more cake, all kinds and makes of cake,
+and then some. It was all cake. No bread and butter with thick firm
+slices of meat between--nothing but cake; and I who of all things
+abhorred cake most! In another age and clime they sat down by the
+waters of Babylon and wept. And in a vacant lot in Canada's proud
+capital, I, too, sat down and wept ... over a mountain of cake. As one
+looks upon the face of his dead son, so looked I upon that
+multitudinous pastry. I suppose I was an ungrateful tramp, for I
+refused to partake of the bounteousness of the house that had had a
+party the night before. Evidently the guests hadn't liked cake either.
+
+That cake marked the crisis in my fortunes. Than it nothing could be
+worse; therefore things must begin to mend. And they did. At the very
+next house I was given a "set-down." Now a "set-down" is the height of
+bliss. One is taken inside, very often is given a chance to wash, and
+is then "set-down" at a table. Tramps love to throw their legs under a
+table. The house was large and comfortable, in the midst of spacious
+grounds and fine trees, and sat well back from the street. They had
+just finished eating, and I was taken right into the dining room--in
+itself a most unusual happening, for the tramp who is lucky enough to
+win a set-down usually receives it in the kitchen. A grizzled and
+gracious Englishman, his matronly wife, and a beautiful young
+Frenchwoman talked with me while I ate.
+
+I wonder if that beautiful young Frenchwoman would remember, at this
+late day, the laugh I gave her when I uttered the barbaric phrase,
+"two-bits." You see, I was trying delicately to hit them for a "light
+piece." That was how the sum of money came to be mentioned. "What?"
+she said. "Two-bits," said I. Her mouth was twitching as she again
+said, "What?" "Two-bits," said I. Whereat she burst into laughter.
+"Won't you repeat it?" she said, when she had regained control of
+herself. "Two-bits," said I. And once more she rippled into
+uncontrollable silvery laughter. "I beg your pardon," said she; "but
+what ... what was it you said?" "Two-bits," said I; "is there anything
+wrong about it?" "Not that I know of," she gurgled between gasps; "but
+what does it mean?" I explained, but I do not remember now whether or
+not I got that two-bits out of her; but I have often wondered since
+as to which of us was the provincial.
+
+When I arrived at the depot, I found, much to my disgust, a bunch of
+at least twenty tramps that were waiting to ride out the blind
+baggages of the overland. Now two or three tramps on the blind baggage
+are all right. They are inconspicuous. But a score! That meant
+trouble. No train-crew would ever let all of us ride.
+
+I may as well explain here what a blind baggage is. Some mail-cars are
+built without doors in the ends; hence, such a car is "blind." The
+mail-cars that possess end doors, have those doors always locked.
+Suppose, after the train has started, that a tramp gets on to the
+platform of one of these blind cars. There is no door, or the door is
+locked. No conductor or brakeman can get to him to collect fare or
+throw him off. It is clear that the tramp is safe until the next time
+the train stops. Then he must get off, run ahead in the darkness, and
+when the train pulls by, jump on to the blind again. But there are
+ways and ways, as you shall see.
+
+When the train pulled out, those twenty tramps swarmed upon the three
+blinds. Some climbed on before the train had run a car-length. They
+were awkward dubs, and I saw their speedy finish. Of course, the
+train-crew was "on," and at the first stop the trouble began. I jumped
+off and ran forward along the track. I noticed that I was accompanied
+by a number of the tramps. They evidently knew their business. When
+one is beating an overland, he must always keep well ahead of the
+train at the stops. I ran ahead, and as I ran, one by one those that
+accompanied me dropped out. This dropping out was the measure of their
+skill and nerve in boarding a train.
+
+For this is the way it works. When the train starts, the shack rides
+out the blind. There is no way for him to get back into the train
+proper except by jumping off the blind and catching a platform where
+the car-ends are not "blind." When the train is going as fast as the
+shack cares to risk, he therefore jumps off the blind, lets several
+cars go by, and gets on to the train. So it is up to the tramp to run
+so far ahead that before the blind is opposite him the shack will have
+already vacated it.
+
+I dropped the last tramp by about fifty feet, and waited. The train
+started. I saw the lantern of the shack on the first blind. He was
+riding her out. And I saw the dubs stand forlornly by the track as the
+blind went by. They made no attempt to get on. They were beaten by
+their own inefficiency at the very start. After them, in the line-up,
+came the tramps that knew a little something about the game. They let
+the first blind, occupied by the shack, go by, and jumped on the
+second and third blinds. Of course, the shack jumped off the first and
+on to the second as it went by, and scrambled around there, throwing
+off the men who had boarded it. But the point is that I was so far
+ahead that when the first blind came opposite me, the shack had
+already left it and was tangled up with the tramps on the second
+blind. A half dozen of the more skilful tramps, who had run far enough
+ahead, made the first blind, too.
+
+At the next stop, as we ran forward along the track, I counted but
+fifteen of us. Five had been ditched. The weeding-out process had
+begun nobly, and it continued station by station. Now we were
+fourteen, now twelve, now eleven, now nine, now eight. It reminded me
+of the ten little niggers of the nursery rhyme. I was resolved that I
+should be the last little nigger of all. And why not? Was I not
+blessed with strength, agility, and youth? (I was eighteen, and in
+perfect condition.) And didn't I have my "nerve" with me? And
+furthermore, was I not a tramp-royal? Were not these other tramps mere
+dubs and "gay-cats" and amateurs alongside of me? If I weren't the
+last little nigger, I might as well quit the game and get a job on an
+alfalfa farm somewhere.
+
+By the time our number had been reduced to four, the whole train-crew
+had become interested. From then on it was a contest of skill and
+wits, with the odds in favor of the crew. One by one the three other
+survivors turned up missing, until I alone remained. My, but I was
+proud of myself! No Croesus was ever prouder of his first million. I
+was holding her down in spite of two brakemen, a conductor, a fireman,
+and an engineer.
+
+And here are a few samples of the way I held her down. Out ahead, in
+the darkness,--so far ahead that the shack riding out the blind must
+perforce get off before it reaches me,--I get on. Very well. I am
+good for another station. When that station is reached, I dart ahead
+again to repeat the manoeuvre. The train pulls out. I watch her
+coming. There is no light of a lantern on the blind. Has the crew
+abandoned the fight? I do not know. One never knows, and one must be
+prepared every moment for anything. As the first blind comes opposite
+me, and I run to leap aboard, I strain my eyes to see if the shack is
+on the platform. For all I know he may be there, with his lantern
+doused, and even as I spring upon the steps that lantern may smash
+down upon my head. I ought to know. I have been hit by lanterns two or
+three times.
+
+But no, the first blind is empty. The train is gathering speed. I am
+safe for another station. But am I? I feel the train slacken speed. On
+the instant I am alert. A manoeuvre is being executed against me, and
+I do not know what it is. I try to watch on both sides at once, not
+forgetting to keep track of the tender in front of me. From any one,
+or all, of these three directions, I may be assailed.
+
+Ah, there it comes. The shack has ridden out the engine. My first
+warning is when his feet strike the steps of the right-hand side of
+the blind. Like a flash I am off the blind to the left and running
+ahead past the engine. I lose myself in the darkness. The situation is
+where it has been ever since the train left Ottawa. I am ahead, and
+the train must come past me if it is to proceed on its journey. I have
+as good a chance as ever for boarding her.
+
+I watch carefully. I see a lantern come forward to the engine, and I
+do not see it go back from the engine. It must therefore be still on
+the engine, and it is a fair assumption that attached to the handle of
+that lantern is a shack. That shack was lazy, or else he would have
+put out his lantern instead of trying to shield it as he came forward.
+The train pulls out. The first blind is empty, and I gain it. As
+before the train slackens, the shack from the engine boards the blind
+from one side, and I go off the other side and run forward.
+
+As I wait in the darkness I am conscious of a big thrill of pride. The
+overland has stopped twice for me--for me, a poor hobo on the bum. I
+alone have twice stopped the overland with its many passengers and
+coaches, its government mail, and its two thousand steam horses
+straining in the engine. And I weigh only one hundred and sixty
+pounds, and I haven't a five-cent piece in my pocket!
+
+Again I see the lantern come forward to the engine. But this time it
+comes conspicuously. A bit too conspicuously to suit me, and I wonder
+what is up. At any rate I have something else to be afraid of than the
+shack on the engine. The train pulls by. Just in time, before I make
+my spring, I see the dark form of a shack, without a lantern, on the
+first blind. I let it go by, and prepare to board the second blind.
+But the shack on the first blind has jumped off and is at my heels.
+Also, I have a fleeting glimpse of the lantern of the shack who rode
+out the engine. He has jumped off, and now both shacks are on the
+ground on the same side with me. The next moment the second blind
+comes by and I am aboard it. But I do not linger. I have figured out
+my countermove. As I dash across the platform I hear the impact of the
+shack's feet against the steps as he boards. I jump off the other side
+and run forward with the train. My plan is to run forward and get on
+the first blind. It is nip and tuck, for the train is gathering speed.
+Also, the shack is behind me and running after me. I guess I am the
+better sprinter, for I make the first blind. I stand on the steps and
+watch my pursuer. He is only about ten feet back and running hard; but
+now the train has approximated his own speed, and, relative to me, he
+is standing still. I encourage him, hold out my hand to him; but he
+explodes in a mighty oath, gives up and makes the train several cars
+back.
+
+The train is speeding along, and I am still chuckling to myself, when,
+without warning, a spray of water strikes me. The fireman is playing
+the hose on me from the engine. I step forward from the car-platform
+to the rear of the tender, where I am sheltered under the overhang.
+The water flies harmlessly over my head. My fingers itch to climb up
+on the tender and lam that fireman with a chunk of coal; but I know if
+I do that, I'll be massacred by him and the engineer, and I refrain.
+
+At the next stop I am off and ahead in the darkness. This time, when
+the train pulls out, both shacks are on the first blind. I divine
+their game. They have blocked the repetition of my previous play. I
+cannot again take the second blind, cross over, and run forward to
+the first. As soon as the first blind passes and I do not get on, they
+swing off, one on each side of the train. I board the second blind,
+and as I do so I know that a moment later, simultaneously, those two
+shacks will arrive on both sides of me. It is like a trap. Both ways
+are blocked. Yet there is another way out, and that way is up.
+
+So I do not wait for my pursuers to arrive. I climb upon the upright
+ironwork of the platform and stand upon the wheel of the hand-brake.
+This has taken up the moment of grace and I hear the shacks strike the
+steps on either side. I don't stop to look. I raise my arms overhead
+until my hands rest against the down-curving ends of the roofs of the
+two cars. One hand, of course, is on the curved roof of one car, the
+other hand on the curved roof of the other car. By this time both
+shacks are coming up the steps. I know it, though I am too busy to see
+them. All this is happening in the space of only several seconds. I
+make a spring with my legs and "muscle" myself up with my arms. As I
+draw up my legs, both shacks reach for me and clutch empty air. I know
+this, for I look down and see them. Also I hear them swear.
+
+I am now in a precarious position, riding the ends of the down-curving
+roofs of two cars at the same time. With a quick, tense movement, I
+transfer both legs to the curve of one roof and both hands to the
+curve of the other roof. Then, gripping the edge of that curving roof,
+I climb over the curve to the level roof above, where I sit down to
+catch my breath, holding on the while to a ventilator that projects
+above the surface. I am on top of the train--on the "decks," as the
+tramps call it, and this process I have described is by them called
+"decking her." And let me say right here that only a young and
+vigorous tramp is able to deck a passenger train, and also, that the
+young and vigorous tramp must have his nerve with him as well.
+
+The train goes on gathering speed, and I know I am safe until the next
+stop--but only until the next stop. If I remain on the roof after the
+train stops, I know those shacks will fusillade me with rocks. A
+healthy shack can "dewdrop" a pretty heavy chunk of stone on top of a
+car--say anywhere from five to twenty pounds. On the other hand, the
+chances are large that at the next stop the shacks will be waiting for
+me to descend at the place I climbed up. It is up to me to climb down
+at some other platform.
+
+Registering a fervent hope that there are no tunnels in the next half
+mile, I rise to my feet and walk down the train half a dozen cars. And
+let me say that one must leave timidity behind him on such a
+_passear_. The roofs of passenger coaches are not made for midnight
+promenades. And if any one thinks they are, let me advise him to try
+it. Just let him walk along the roof of a jolting, lurching car, with
+nothing to hold on to but the black and empty air, and when he comes
+to the down-curving end of the roof, all wet and slippery with dew,
+let him accelerate his speed so as to step across to the next roof,
+down-curving and wet and slippery. Believe me, he will learn whether
+his heart is weak or his head is giddy.
+
+As the train slows down for a stop, half a dozen platforms from where
+I had decked her I come down. No one is on the platform. When the
+train comes to a standstill, I slip off to the ground. Ahead, and
+between me and the engine, are two moving lanterns. The shacks are
+looking for me on the roofs of the cars. I note that the car beside
+which I am standing is a "four-wheeler"--by which is meant that it has
+only four wheels to each truck. (When you go underneath on the rods,
+be sure to avoid the "six-wheelers,"--they lead to disasters.)
+
+I duck under the train and make for the rods, and I can tell you I am
+mighty glad that the train is standing still. It is the first time I
+have ever gone underneath on the Canadian Pacific, and the internal
+arrangements are new to me. I try to crawl over the top of the truck,
+between the truck and the bottom of the car. But the space is not
+large enough for me to squeeze through. This is new to me. Down in the
+United States I am accustomed to going underneath on rapidly moving
+trains, seizing a gunnel and swinging my feet under to the brake-beam,
+and from there crawling over the top of the truck and down inside the
+truck to a seat on the cross-rod.
+
+Feeling with my hands in the darkness, I learn that there is room
+between the brake-beam and the ground. It is a tight squeeze. I have
+to lie flat and worm my way through. Once inside the truck, I take my
+seat on the rod and wonder what the shacks are thinking has become of
+me. The train gets under way. They have given me up at last.
+
+But have they? At the very next stop, I see a lantern thrust under
+the next truck to mine at the other end of the car. They are searching
+the rods for me. I must make my get-away pretty lively. I crawl on my
+stomach under the brake-beam. They see me and run for me, but I crawl
+on hands and knees across the rail on the opposite side and gain my
+feet. Then away I go for the head of the train. I run past the engine
+and hide in the sheltering darkness. It is the same old situation. I
+am ahead of the train, and the train must go past me.
+
+The train pulls out. There is a lantern on the first blind. I lie low,
+and see the peering shack go by. But there is also a lantern on the
+second blind. That shack spots me and calls to the shack who has gone
+past on the first blind. Both jump off. Never mind, I'll take the
+third blind and deck her. But heavens, there is a lantern on the third
+blind, too. It is the conductor. I let it go by. At any rate I have
+now the full train-crew in front of me. I turn and run back in the
+opposite direction to what the train is going. I look over my
+shoulder. All three lanterns are on the ground and wobbling along in
+pursuit. I sprint. Half the train has gone by, and it is going quite
+fast, when I spring aboard. I know that the two shacks and the
+conductor will arrive like ravening wolves in about two seconds. I
+spring upon the wheel of the hand-brake, get my hands on the curved
+ends of the roofs, and muscle myself up to the decks; while my
+disappointed pursuers, clustering on the platform beneath like dogs
+that have treed a cat, howl curses up at me and say unsocial things
+about my ancestors.
+
+But what does that matter? It is five to one, including the engineer
+and fireman, and the majesty of the law and the might of a great
+corporation are behind them, and I am beating them out. I am too far
+down the train, and I run ahead over the roofs of the coaches until I
+am over the fifth or sixth platform from the engine. I peer down
+cautiously. A shack is on that platform. That he has caught sight of
+me, I know from the way he makes a swift sneak inside the car; and I
+know, also, that he is waiting inside the door, all ready to pounce
+out on me when I climb down. But I make believe that I don't know, and
+I remain there to encourage him in his error. I do not see him, yet I
+know that he opens the door once and peeps up to assure himself that I
+am still there.
+
+The train slows down for a station. I dangle my legs down in a
+tentative way. The train stops. My legs are still dangling. I hear the
+door unlatch softly. He is all ready for me. Suddenly I spring up and
+run forward over the roof. This is right over his head, where he lurks
+inside the door. The train is standing still; the night is quiet, and
+I take care to make plenty of noise on the metal roof with my feet. I
+don't know, but my assumption is that he is now running forward to
+catch me as I descend at the next platform. But I don't descend there.
+Halfway along the roof of the coach, I turn, retrace my way softly and
+quickly to the platform both the shack and I have just abandoned. The
+coast is clear. I descend to the ground on the off-side of the train
+and hide in the darkness. Not a soul has seen me.
+
+I go over to the fence, at the edge of the right of way, and watch.
+Ah, ha! What's that? I see a lantern on top of the train, moving along
+from front to rear. They think I haven't come down, and they are
+searching the roofs for me. And better than that--on the ground on
+each side of the train, moving abreast with the lantern on top, are
+two other lanterns. It is a rabbit-drive, and I am the rabbit. When
+the shack on top flushes me, the ones on each side will nab me. I roll
+a cigarette and watch the procession go by. Once past me, I am safe to
+proceed to the front of the train. She pulls out, and I make the front
+blind without opposition. But before she is fully under way and just
+as I am lighting my cigarette, I am aware that the fireman has climbed
+over the coal to the back of the tender and is looking down at me. I
+am filled with apprehension. From his position he can mash me to a
+jelly with lumps of coal. Instead of which he addresses me, and I note
+with relief the admiration in his voice.
+
+"You son-of-a-gun," is what he says.
+
+It is a high compliment, and I thrill as a schoolboy thrills on
+receiving a reward of merit.
+
+"Say," I call up to him, "don't you play the hose on me any more."
+
+"All right," he answers, and goes back to his work.
+
+I have made friends with the engine, but the shacks are still looking
+for me. At the next stop, the shacks ride out all three blinds, and as
+before, I let them go by and deck in the middle of the train. The
+crew is on its mettle by now, and the train stops. The shacks are
+going to ditch me or know the reason why. Three times the mighty
+overland stops for me at that station, and each time I elude the
+shacks and make the decks. But it is hopeless, for they have finally
+come to an understanding of the situation. I have taught them that
+they cannot guard the train from me. They must do something else.
+
+And they do it. When the train stops that last time, they take after
+me hot-footed. Ah, I see their game. They are trying to run me down.
+At first they herd me back toward the rear of the train. I know my
+peril. Once to the rear of the train, it will pull out with me left
+behind. I double, and twist, and turn, dodge through my pursuers, and
+gain the front of the train. One shack still hangs on after me. All
+right, I'll give him the run of his life, for my wind is good. I run
+straight ahead along the track. It doesn't matter. If he chases me ten
+miles, he'll nevertheless have to catch the train, and I can board her
+at any speed that he can.
+
+So I run on, keeping just comfortably ahead of him and straining my
+eyes in the gloom for cattle-guards and switches that may bring me to
+grief. Alas! I strain my eyes too far ahead, and trip over something
+just under my feet, I know not what, some little thing, and go down to
+earth in a long, stumbling fall. The next moment I am on my feet, but
+the shack has me by the collar. I do not struggle. I am busy with
+breathing deeply and with sizing him up. He is narrow-shouldered, and
+I have at least thirty pounds the better of him in weight. Besides, he
+is just as tired as I am, and if he tries to slug me, I'll teach him a
+few things.
+
+But he doesn't try to slug me, and that problem is settled. Instead,
+he starts to lead me back toward the train, and another possible
+problem arises. I see the lanterns of the conductor and the other
+shack. We are approaching them. Not for nothing have I made the
+acquaintance of the New York police. Not for nothing, in box-cars, by
+water-tanks, and in prison-cells, have I listened to bloody tales of
+man-handling. What if these three men are about to man-handle me?
+Heaven knows I have given them provocation enough. I think quickly. We
+are drawing nearer and nearer to the other two trainmen. I line up the
+stomach and the jaw of my captor, and plan the right and left I'll
+give him at the first sign of trouble.
+
+Pshaw! I know another trick I'd like to work on him, and I almost
+regret that I did not do it at the moment I was captured. I could make
+him sick, what of his clutch on my collar. His fingers,
+tight-gripping, are buried inside my collar. My coat is tightly
+buttoned. Did you ever see a tourniquet? Well, this is one. All I have
+to do is to duck my head under his arm and begin to twist. I must
+twist rapidly--very rapidly. I know how to do it; twisting in a
+violent, jerky way, ducking my head under his arm with each
+revolution. Before he knows it, those detaining fingers of his will be
+detained. He will be unable to withdraw them. It is a powerful
+leverage. Twenty seconds after I have started revolving, the blood
+will be bursting out of his finger-ends, the delicate tendons will be
+rupturing, and all the muscles and nerves will be mashing and crushing
+together in a shrieking mass. Try it sometime when somebody has you by
+the collar. But be quick--quick as lightning. Also, be sure to hug
+yourself while you are revolving--hug your face with your left arm and
+your abdomen with your right. You see, the other fellow might try to
+stop you with a punch from his free arm. It would be a good idea, too,
+to revolve away from that free arm rather than toward it. A punch
+going is never so bad as a punch coming.
+
+That shack will never know how near he was to being made very, very
+sick. All that saves him is that it is not in their plan to man-handle
+me. When we draw near enough, he calls out that he has me, and they
+signal the train to come on. The engine passes us, and the three
+blinds. After that, the conductor and the other shack swing aboard.
+But still my captor holds on to me. I see the plan. He is going to
+hold me until the rear of the train goes by. Then he will hop on, and
+I shall be left behind--ditched.
+
+But the train has pulled out fast, the engineer trying to make up for
+lost time. Also, it is a long train. It is going very lively, and I
+know the shack is measuring its speed with apprehension.
+
+"Think you can make it?" I query innocently.
+
+He releases my collar, makes a quick run, and swings aboard. A number
+of coaches are yet to pass by. He knows it, and remains on the steps,
+his head poked out and watching me. In that moment my next move comes
+to me. I'll make the last platform. I know she's going fast and
+faster, but I'll only get a roll in the dirt if I fail, and the
+optimism of youth is mine. I do not give myself away. I stand with a
+dejected droop of shoulder, advertising that I have abandoned hope.
+But at the same time I am feeling with my feet the good gravel. It is
+perfect footing. Also I am watching the poked-out head of the shack. I
+see it withdrawn. He is confident that the train is going too fast for
+me ever to make it.
+
+And the train _is_ going fast--faster than any train I have ever
+tackled. As the last coach comes by I sprint in the same direction
+with it. It is a swift, short sprint. I cannot hope to equal the speed
+of the train, but I can reduce the difference of our speed to the
+minimum, and, hence, reduce the shock of impact, when I leap on board.
+In the fleeting instant of darkness I do not see the iron hand-rail of
+the last platform; nor is there time for me to locate it. I reach for
+where I think it ought to be, and at the same instant my feet leave
+the ground. It is all in the toss. The next moment I may be rolling in
+the gravel with broken ribs, or arms, or head. But my fingers grip the
+hand-hold, there is a jerk on my arms that slightly pivots my body,
+and my feet land on the steps with sharp violence.
+
+I sit down, feeling very proud of myself. In all my hoboing it is the
+best bit of train-jumping I have done. I know that late at night one
+is always good for several stations on the last platform, but I do not
+care to trust myself at the rear of the train. At the first stop I run
+forward on the off-side of the train, pass the Pullmans, and duck
+under and take a rod under a day-coach. At the next stop I run forward
+again and take another rod.
+
+I am now comparatively safe. The shacks think I am ditched. But the
+long day and the strenuous night are beginning to tell on me. Also, it
+is not so windy nor cold underneath, and I begin to doze. This will
+never do. Sleep on the rods spells death, so I crawl out at a station
+and go forward to the second blind. Here I can lie down and sleep; and
+here I do sleep--how long I do not know--for I am awakened by a
+lantern thrust into my face. The two shacks are staring at me. I
+scramble up on the defensive, wondering as to which one is going to
+make the first "pass" at me. But slugging is far from their minds.
+
+"I thought you was ditched," says the shack who had held me by the
+collar.
+
+"If you hadn't let go of me when you did, you'd have been ditched
+along with me," I answer.
+
+"How's that?" he asks.
+
+"I'd have gone into a clinch with you, that's all," is my reply.
+
+They hold a consultation, and their verdict is summed up in:--
+
+"Well, I guess you can ride, Bo. There's no use trying to keep you
+off."
+
+And they go away and leave me in peace to the end of their division.
+
+I have given the foregoing as a sample of what "holding her down"
+means. Of course, I have selected a fortunate night out of my
+experiences, and said nothing of the nights--and many of them--when I
+was tripped up by accident and ditched.
+
+In conclusion, I want to tell of what happened when I reached the end
+of the division. On single-track, transcontinental lines, the freight
+trains wait at the divisions and follow out after the passenger
+trains. When the division was reached, I left my train, and looked for
+the freight that would pull out behind it. I found the freight, made
+up on a side-track and waiting. I climbed into a box-car half full of
+coal and lay down. In no time I was asleep.
+
+I was awakened by the sliding open of the door. Day was just dawning,
+cold and gray, and the freight had not yet started. A "con"
+(conductor) was poking his head inside the door.
+
+"Get out of that, you blankety-blank-blank!" he roared at me.
+
+I got, and outside I watched him go down the line inspecting every car
+in the train. When he got out of sight I thought to myself that he
+would never think I'd have the nerve to climb back into the very car
+out of which he had fired me. So back I climbed and lay down again.
+
+Now that con's mental processes must have been paralleling mine, for
+he reasoned that it was the very thing I would do. For back he came
+and fired me out.
+
+Now, surely, I reasoned, he will never dream that I'd do it a third
+time. Back I went, into the very same car. But I decided to make sure.
+Only one side-door could be opened. The other side-door was nailed up.
+Beginning at the top of the coal, I dug a hole alongside of that door
+and lay down in it. I heard the other door open. The con climbed up
+and looked in over the top of the coal. He couldn't see me. He called
+to me to get out. I tried to fool him by remaining quiet. But when he
+began tossing chunks of coal into the hole on top of me, I gave up and
+for the third time was fired out. Also, he informed me in warm terms
+of what would happen to me if he caught me in there again.
+
+I changed my tactics. When a man is paralleling your mental processes,
+ditch him. Abruptly break off your line of reasoning, and go off on a
+new line. This I did. I hid between some cars on an adjacent
+side-track, and watched. Sure enough, that con came back again to the
+car. He opened the door, he climbed up, he called, he threw coal into
+the hole I had made. He even crawled over the coal and looked into the
+hole. That satisfied him. Five minutes later the freight was pulling
+out, and he was not in sight. I ran alongside the car, pulled the door
+open, and climbed in. He never looked for me again, and I rode that
+coal-car precisely one thousand and twenty-two miles, sleeping most of
+the time and getting out at divisions (where the freights always stop
+for an hour or so) to beg my food. And at the end of the thousand and
+twenty-two miles I lost that car through a happy incident. I got a
+"set-down," and the tramp doesn't live who won't miss a train for a
+set-down any time.
+
+
+
+
+PICTURES
+
+ "What do it matter where or 'ow we die,
+ So long as we've our 'ealth to watch it all?"
+
+ --Sestina of the Tramp-Royal
+
+
+Perhaps the greatest charm of tramp-life is the absence of monotony.
+In Hobo Land the face of life is protean--an ever changing
+phantasmagoria, where the impossible happens and the unexpected jumps
+out of the bushes at every turn of the road. The hobo never knows what
+is going to happen the next moment; hence, he lives only in the
+present moment. He has learned the futility of telic endeavor, and
+knows the delight of drifting along with the whimsicalities of Chance.
+
+Often I think over my tramp days, and ever I marvel at the swift
+succession of pictures that flash up in my memory. It matters not
+where I begin to think; any day of all the days is a day apart, with a
+record of swift-moving pictures all its own. For instance, I remember
+a sunny summer morning in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, and immediately
+comes to my mind the auspicious beginning of the day--a "set-down"
+with two maiden ladies, and not in their kitchen, but in their dining
+room, with them beside me at the table. We ate eggs, out of egg-cups!
+It was the first time I had ever seen egg-cups, or heard of egg-cups!
+I was a bit awkward at first, I'll confess; but I was hungry and
+unabashed. I mastered the egg-cup, and I mastered the eggs in a way
+that made those two maiden ladies sit up.
+
+Why, they ate like a couple of canaries, dabbling with the one egg
+each they took, and nibbling at tiny wafers of toast. Life was low in
+their bodies; their blood ran thin; and they had slept warm all night.
+I had been out all night, consuming much fuel of my body to keep warm,
+beating my way down from a place called Emporium, in the northern part
+of the state. Wafers of toast! Out of sight! But each wafer was no
+more than a mouthful to me--nay, no more than a bite. It is tedious to
+have to reach for another piece of toast each bite when one is
+potential with many bites.
+
+When I was a very little lad, I had a very little dog called Punch. I
+saw to his feeding myself. Some one in the household had shot a lot of
+ducks, and we had a fine meat dinner. When I had finished, I prepared
+Punch's dinner--a large plateful of bones and tidbits. I went outside
+to give it to him. Now it happened that a visitor had ridden over from
+a neighboring ranch, and with him had come a Newfoundland dog as big
+as a calf. I set the plate on the ground. Punch wagged his tail and
+began. He had before him a blissful half-hour at least. There was a
+sudden rush. Punch was brushed aside like a straw in the path of a
+cyclone, and that Newfoundland swooped down upon the plate. In spite
+of his huge maw he must have been trained to quick lunches, for, in
+the fleeting instant before he received the kick in the ribs I aimed
+at him, he completely engulfed the contents of the plate. He swept it
+clean. One last lingering lick of his tongue removed even the grease
+stains.
+
+As that big Newfoundland behaved at the plate of my dog Punch, so
+behaved I at the table of those two maiden ladies of Harrisburg. I
+swept it bare. I didn't break anything, but I cleaned out the eggs and
+the toast and the coffee. The servant brought more, but I kept her
+busy, and ever she brought more and more. The coffee was delicious,
+but it needn't have been served in such tiny cups. What time had I to
+eat when it took all my time to prepare the many cups of coffee for
+drinking?
+
+At any rate, it gave my tongue time to wag. Those two maiden ladies,
+with their pink-and-white complexions and gray curls, had never looked
+upon the bright face of adventure. As the "Tramp-Royal" would have it,
+they had worked all their lives "on one same shift." Into the sweet
+scents and narrow confines of their uneventful existence I brought the
+large airs of the world, freighted with the lusty smells of sweat and
+strife, and with the tangs and odors of strange lands and soils. And
+right well I scratched their soft palms with the callous on my own
+palms--the half-inch horn that comes of pull-and-haul of rope and long
+and arduous hours of caressing shovel-handles. This I did, not merely
+in the braggadocio of youth, but to prove, by toil performed, the
+claim I had upon their charity.
+
+Ah, I can see them now, those dear, sweet ladies, just as I sat at
+their breakfast table twelve years ago, discoursing upon the way of my
+feet in the world, brushing aside their kindly counsel as a real
+devilish fellow should, and thrilling them, not alone with my own
+adventures, but with the adventures of all the other fellows with whom
+I had rubbed shoulders and exchanged confidences. I appropriated them
+all, the adventures of the other fellows, I mean; and if those maiden
+ladies had been less trustful and guileless, they could have tangled
+me up beautifully in my chronology. Well, well, and what of it? It was
+fair exchange. For their many cups of coffee, and eggs, and bites of
+toast, I gave full value. Right royally I gave them entertainment. My
+coming to sit at their table was their adventure, and adventure is
+beyond price anyway.
+
+Coming along the street, after parting from the maiden ladies, I
+gathered in a newspaper from the doorway of some late-riser, and in a
+grassy park lay down to get in touch with the last twenty-four hours
+of the world. There, in the park, I met a fellow-hobo who told me his
+life-story and who wrestled with me to join the United States Army. He
+had given in to the recruiting officer and was just about to join, and
+he couldn't see why I shouldn't join with him. He had been a member of
+Coxey's Army in the march to Washington several months before, and
+that seemed to have given him a taste for army life. I, too, was a
+veteran, for had I not been a private in Company L of the Second
+Division of Kelly's Industrial Army?--said Company L being commonly
+known as the "Nevada push." But my army experience had had the
+opposite effect on me; so I left that hobo to go his way to the dogs
+of war, while I "threw my feet" for dinner.
+
+This duty performed, I started to walk across the bridge over the
+Susquehanna to the west shore. I forget the name of the railroad that
+ran down that side, but while lying in the grass in the morning the
+idea had come to me to go to Baltimore; so to Baltimore I was going on
+that railroad, whatever its name was. It was a warm afternoon, and
+part way across the bridge I came to a lot of fellows who were in
+swimming off one of the piers. Off went my clothes and in went I. The
+water was fine; but when I came out and dressed, I found I had been
+robbed. Some one had gone through my clothes. Now I leave it to you if
+being robbed isn't in itself adventure enough for one day. I have
+known men who have been robbed and who have talked all the rest of
+their lives about it. True, the thief that went through my clothes
+didn't get much--some thirty or forty cents in nickels and pennies,
+and my tobacco and cigarette papers; but it was all I had, which is
+more than most men can be robbed of, for they have something left at
+home, while I had no home. It was a pretty tough gang in swimming
+there. I sized up, and knew better than to squeal. So I begged "the
+makings," and I could have sworn it was one of my own papers I rolled
+the tobacco in.
+
+Then on across the bridge I hiked to the west shore. Here ran the
+railroad I was after. No station was in sight. How to catch a freight
+without walking to a station was the problem. I noticed that the track
+came up a steep grade, culminating at the point where I had tapped it,
+and I knew that a heavy freight couldn't pull up there any too lively.
+But how lively? On the opposite side of the track rose a high bank. On
+the edge, at the top, I saw a man's head sticking up from the grass.
+Perhaps he knew how fast the freights took the grade, and when the
+next one went south. I called out my questions to him, and he motioned
+to me to come up.
+
+I obeyed, and when I reached the top, I found four other men lying in
+the grass with him. I took in the scene and knew them for what they
+were--American gypsies. In the open space that extended back among the
+trees from the edge of the bank were several nondescript wagons.
+Ragged, half-naked children swarmed over the camp, though I noticed
+that they took care not to come near and bother the men-folk. Several
+lean, unbeautiful, and toil-degraded women were pottering about with
+camp-chores, and one I noticed who sat by herself on the seat of one
+of the wagons, her head drooped forward, her knees drawn up to her
+chin and clasped limply by her arms. She did not look happy. She
+looked as if she did not care for anything--in this I was wrong, for
+later I was to learn that there was something for which she did care.
+The full measure of human suffering was in her face, and, in
+addition, there was the tragic expression of incapacity for further
+suffering. Nothing could hurt any more, was what her face seemed to
+portray; but in this, too, I was wrong.
+
+I lay in the grass on the edge of the steep and talked with the
+men-folk. We were kin--brothers. I was the American hobo, and they
+were the American gypsy. I knew enough of their argot for
+conversation, and they knew enough of mine. There were two more in
+their gang, who were across the river "mushing" in Harrisburg. A
+"musher" is an itinerant fakir. This word is not to be confounded with
+the Klondike "musher," though the origin of both terms may be the
+same; namely, the corruption of the French _marche ons_, to march, to
+walk, to "mush." The particular graft of the two mushers who had
+crossed the river was umbrella-mending; but what real graft lay behind
+their umbrella-mending, I was not told, nor would it have been polite
+to ask.
+
+It was a glorious day. Not a breath of wind was stirring, and we
+basked in the shimmering warmth of the sun. From everywhere arose the
+drowsy hum of insects, and the balmy air was filled with scents of the
+sweet earth and the green growing things. We were too lazy to do more
+than mumble on in intermittent conversation. And then, all abruptly,
+the peace and quietude was jarred awry by man.
+
+Two bare-legged boys of eight or nine in some minor way broke some
+rule of the camp--what it was I did not know; and a man who lay beside
+me suddenly sat up and called to them. He was chief of the tribe, a
+man with narrow forehead and narrow-slitted eyes, whose thin lips and
+twisted sardonic features explained why the two boys jumped and tensed
+like startled deer at the sound of his voice. The alertness of fear
+was in their faces, and they turned, in a panic, to run. He called to
+them to come back, and one boy lagged behind reluctantly, his meagre
+little frame portraying in pantomime the struggle within him between
+fear and reason. He wanted to come back. His intelligence and past
+experience told him that to come back was a lesser evil than to run
+on; but lesser evil that it was, it was great enough to put wings to
+his fear and urge his feet to flight.
+
+Still he lagged and struggled until he reached the shelter of the
+trees, where he halted. The chief of the tribe did not pursue. He
+sauntered over to a wagon and picked up a heavy whip. Then he came
+back to the centre of the open space and stood still. He did not
+speak. He made no gestures. He was the Law, pitiless and omnipotent.
+He merely stood there and waited. And I knew, and all knew, and the
+two boys in the shelter of the trees knew, for what he waited.
+
+The boy who had lagged slowly came back. His face was stamped with
+quivering resolution. He did not falter. He had made up his mind to
+take his punishment. And mark you, the punishment was not for the
+original offence, but for the offence of running away. And in this,
+that tribal chieftain but behaved as behaves the exalted society in
+which he lived. We punish our criminals, and when they escape and run
+away, we bring them back and add to their punishment.
+
+Straight up to the chief the boy came, halting at the proper distance
+for the swing of the lash. The whip hissed through the air, and I
+caught myself with a start of surprise at the weight of the blow. The
+thin little leg was so very thin and little. The flesh showed white
+where the lash had curled and bitten, and then, where the white had
+shown, sprang up the savage welt, with here and there along its length
+little scarlet oozings where the skin had broken. Again the whip
+swung, and the boy's whole body winced in anticipation of the blow,
+though he did not move from the spot. His will held good. A second
+welt sprang up, and a third. It was not until the fourth landed that
+the boy screamed. Also, he could no longer stand still, and from then
+on, blow after blow, he danced up and down in his anguish, screaming;
+but he did not attempt to run away. If his involuntary dancing took
+him beyond the reach of the whip, he danced back into range again. And
+when it was all over--a dozen blows--he went away, whimpering and
+squealing, among the wagons.
+
+The chief stood still and waited. The second boy came out from the
+trees. But he did not come straight. He came like a cringing dog,
+obsessed by little panics that made him turn and dart away for half a
+dozen steps. But always he turned and came back, circling nearer and
+nearer to the man, whimpering, making inarticulate animal-noises in
+his throat. I saw that he never looked at the man. His eyes always
+were fixed upon the whip, and in his eyes was a terror that made me
+sick--the frantic terror of an inconceivably maltreated child. I have
+seen strong men dropping right and left out of battle and squirming in
+their death-throes, I have seen them by scores blown into the air by
+bursting shells and their bodies torn asunder; believe me, the
+witnessing was as merrymaking and laughter and song to me in
+comparison with the way the sight of that poor child affected me.
+
+The whipping began. The whipping of the first boy was as play compared
+with this one. In no time the blood was running down his thin little
+legs. He danced and squirmed and doubled up till it seemed almost that
+he was some grotesque marionette operated by strings. I say "seemed,"
+for his screaming gave the lie to the seeming and stamped it with
+reality. His shrieks were shrill and piercing; within them no hoarse
+notes, but only the thin sexlessness of the voice of a child. The time
+came when the boy could stand it no more. Reason fled, and he tried to
+run away. But now the man followed up, curbing his flight, herding him
+with blows back always into the open space.
+
+Then came interruption. I heard a wild smothered cry. The woman who
+sat in the wagon seat had got out and was running to interfere. She
+sprang between the man and boy.
+
+"You want some, eh?" said he with the whip. "All right, then."
+
+He swung the whip upon her. Her skirts were long, so he did not try
+for her legs. He drove the lash for her face, which she shielded as
+best she could with her hands and forearms, drooping her head forward
+between her lean shoulders, and on the lean shoulders and arms
+receiving the blows. Heroic mother! She knew just what she was doing.
+The boy, still shrieking, was making his get-away to the wagons.
+
+And all the while the four men lay beside me and watched and made no
+move. Nor did I move, and without shame I say it; though my reason was
+compelled to struggle hard against my natural impulse to rise up and
+interfere. I knew life. Of what use to the woman, or to me, would be
+my being beaten to death by five men there on the bank of the
+Susquehanna? I once saw a man hanged, and though my whole soul cried
+protest, my mouth cried not. Had it cried, I should most likely have
+had my skull crushed by the butt of a revolver, for it was the law
+that the man should hang. And here, in this gypsy group, it was the
+law that the woman should be whipped.
+
+Even so, the reason in both cases that I did not interfere was not
+that it was the law, but that the law was stronger than I. Had it not
+been for those four men beside me in the grass, right gladly would I
+have waded into the man with the whip. And, barring the accident of
+the landing on me with a knife or a club in the hands of some of the
+various women of the camp, I am confident that I should have beaten
+him into a mess. But the four men _were_ beside me in the grass. They
+made their law stronger than I.
+
+Oh, believe me, I did my own suffering. I had seen women beaten
+before, often, but never had I seen such a beating as this. Her dress
+across the shoulders was cut into shreds. One blow that had passed her
+guard, had raised a bloody welt from cheek to chin. Not one blow, nor
+two, not one dozen, nor two dozen, but endlessly, infinitely, that
+whip-lash smote and curled about her. The sweat poured from me, and I
+breathed hard, clutching at the grass with my hands until I strained
+it out by the roots. And all the time my reason kept whispering,
+"Fool! Fool!" That welt on the face nearly did for me. I started to
+rise to my feet; but the hand of the man next to me went out to my
+shoulder and pressed me down.
+
+"Easy, pardner, easy," he warned me in a low voice. I looked at him.
+His eyes met mine unwaveringly. He was a large man, broad-shouldered
+and heavy-muscled; and his face was lazy, phlegmatic, slothful, withal
+kindly, yet without passion, and quite soulless--a dim soul,
+unmalicious, unmoral, bovine, and stubborn. Just an animal he was,
+with no more than a faint flickering of intelligence, a good-natured
+brute with the strength and mental caliber of a gorilla. His hand
+pressed heavily upon me, and I knew the weight of the muscles behind.
+I looked at the other brutes, two of them unperturbed and incurious,
+and one of them that gloated over the spectacle; and my reason came
+back to me, my muscles relaxed, and I sank down in the grass.
+
+My mind went back to the two maiden ladies with whom I had had
+breakfast that morning. Less than two miles, as the crow flies,
+separated them from this scene. Here, in the windless day, under a
+beneficent sun, was a sister of theirs being beaten by a brother of
+mine. Here was a page of life they could never see--and better so,
+though for lack of seeing they would never be able to understand their
+sisterhood, nor themselves, nor know the clay of which they were made.
+For it is not given to woman to live in sweet-scented, narrow rooms
+and at the same time be a little sister to all the world.
+
+The whipping was finished, and the woman, no longer screaming, went
+back to her seat in the wagon. Nor did the other women come to
+her--just then. They were afraid. But they came afterward, when a
+decent interval had elapsed. The man put the whip away and rejoined
+us, flinging himself down on the other side of me. He was breathing
+hard from his exertions. He wiped the sweat from his eyes on his
+coat-sleeve, and looked challengingly at me. I returned his look
+carelessly; what he had done was no concern of mine. I did not go away
+abruptly. I lay there half an hour longer, which, under the
+circumstances, was tact and etiquette. I rolled cigarettes from
+tobacco I borrowed from them, and when I slipped down the bank to the
+railroad, I was equipped with the necessary information for catching
+the next freight bound south.
+
+Well, and what of it? It was a page out of life, that's all; and there
+are many pages worse, far worse, that I have seen. I have sometimes
+held forth (facetiously, so my listeners believed) that the chief
+distinguishing trait between man and the other animals is that man is
+the only animal that maltreats the females of his kind. It is
+something of which no wolf nor cowardly coyote is ever guilty. It is
+something that even the dog, degenerated by domestication, will not
+do. The dog still retains the wild instinct in this matter, while man
+has lost most of his wild instincts--at least, most of the good ones.
+
+Worse pages of life than what I have described? Read the reports on
+child labor in the United States,--east, west, north, and south, it
+doesn't matter where,--and know that all of us, profit-mongers that we
+are, are typesetters and printers of worse pages of life than that
+mere page of wife-beating on the Susquehanna.
+
+I went down the grade a hundred yards to where the footing beside the
+track was good. Here I could catch my freight as it pulled slowly up
+the hill, and here I found half a dozen hoboes waiting for the same
+purpose. Several were playing seven-up with an old pack of cards. I
+took a hand. A coon began to shuffle the deck. He was fat, and young,
+and moon-faced. He beamed with good-nature. It fairly oozed from him.
+As he dealt the first card to me, he paused and said:--
+
+"Say, Bo, ain't I done seen you befo'?"
+
+"You sure have," I answered. "An' you didn't have those same duds on,
+either."
+
+He was puzzled.
+
+"D'ye remember Buffalo?" I queried.
+
+Then he knew me, and with laughter and ejaculation hailed me as a
+comrade; for at Buffalo his clothes had been striped while he did his
+bit of time in the Erie County Penitentiary. For that matter, my
+clothes had been likewise striped, for I had been doing my bit of
+time, too.
+
+The game proceeded, and I learned the stake for which we played. Down
+the bank toward the river descended a steep and narrow path that led
+to a spring some twenty-five feet beneath. We played on the edge of
+the bank. The man who was "stuck" had to take a small condensed-milk
+can, and with it carry water to the winners.
+
+The first game was played and the coon was stuck. He took the small
+milk-tin and climbed down the bank, while we sat above and guyed him.
+We drank like fish. Four round trips he had to make for me alone, and
+the others were equally lavish with their thirst. The path was very
+steep, and sometimes the coon slipped when part way up, spilled the
+water, and had to go back for more. But he didn't get angry. He
+laughed as heartily as any of us; that was why he slipped so often.
+Also, he assured us of the prodigious quantities of water he would
+drink when some one else got stuck.
+
+When our thirst was quenched, another game was started. Again the coon
+was stuck, and again we drank our fill. A third game and a fourth
+ended the same way, and each time that moon-faced darky nearly died
+with delight at appreciation of the fate that Chance was dealing out
+to him. And we nearly died with him, what of our delight. We laughed
+like careless children, or gods, there on the edge of the bank. I know
+that I laughed till it seemed the top of my head would come off, and
+I drank from the milk-tin till I was nigh waterlogged. Serious
+discussion arose as to whether we could successfully board the freight
+when it pulled up the grade, what of the weight of water secreted on
+our persons. This particular phase of the situation just about
+finished the coon. He had to break off from water-carrying for at
+least five minutes while he lay down and rolled with laughter.
+
+The lengthening shadows stretched farther and farther across the
+river, and the soft, cool twilight came on, and ever we drank water,
+and ever our ebony cup-bearer brought more and more. Forgotten was the
+beaten woman of the hour before. That was a page read and turned over;
+I was busy now with this new page, and when the engine whistled on the
+grade, this page would be finished and another begun; and so the book
+of life goes on, page after page and pages without end--when one is
+young.
+
+And then we played a game in which the coon failed to be stuck. The
+victim was a lean and dyspeptic-looking hobo, the one who had laughed
+least of all of us. We said we didn't want any water--which was the
+truth. Not the wealth of Ormuz and of Ind, nor the pressure of a
+pneumatic ram, could have forced another drop into my saturated
+carcass. The coon looked disappointed, then rose to the occasion and
+guessed he'd have some. He meant it, too. He had some, and then some,
+and then some. Ever the melancholy hobo climbed down and up the steep
+bank, and ever the coon called for more. He drank more water than all
+the rest of us put together. The twilight deepened into night, the
+stars came out, and he still drank on. I do believe that if the
+whistle of the freight hadn't sounded, he'd be there yet, swilling
+water and revenge while the melancholy hobo toiled down and up.
+
+But the whistle sounded. The page was done. We sprang to our feet and
+strung out alongside the track. There she came, coughing and
+spluttering up the grade, the headlight turning night into day and
+silhouetting us in sharp relief. The engine passed us, and we were all
+running with the train, some boarding on the side-ladders, others
+"springing" the side-doors of empty box-cars and climbing in. I caught
+a flat-car loaded with mixed lumber and crawled away into a
+comfortable nook. I lay on my back with a newspaper under my head for
+a pillow. Above me the stars were winking and wheeling in squadrons
+back and forth as the train rounded the curves, and watching them I
+fell asleep. The day was done--one day of all my days. To-morrow would
+be another day, and I was young.
+
+
+
+
+"PINCHED"
+
+
+I rode into Niagara Falls in a "side-door Pullman," or, in common
+parlance, a box-car. A flat-car, by the way, is known amongst the
+fraternity as a "gondola," with the second syllable emphasized and
+pronounced long. But to return. I arrived in the afternoon and headed
+straight from the freight train to the falls. Once my eyes were filled
+with that wonder-vision of down-rushing water, I was lost. I could not
+tear myself away long enough to "batter" the "privates" (domiciles)
+for my supper. Even a "set-down" could not have lured me away. Night
+came on, a beautiful night of moonlight, and I lingered by the falls
+until after eleven. Then it was up to me to hunt for a place to "kip."
+
+"Kip," "doss," "flop," "pound your ear," all mean the same thing;
+namely, to sleep. Somehow, I had a "hunch" that Niagara Falls was a
+"bad" town for hoboes, and I headed out into the country. I climbed a
+fence and "flopped" in a field. John Law would never find me there, I
+flattered myself. I lay on my back in the grass and slept like a babe.
+It was so balmy warm that I woke up not once all night. But with the
+first gray daylight my eyes opened, and I remembered the wonderful
+falls. I climbed the fence and started down the road to have another
+look at them. It was early--not more than five o'clock--and not until
+eight o'clock could I begin to batter for my breakfast. I could spend
+at least three hours by the river. Alas! I was fated never to see the
+river nor the falls again.
+
+The town was asleep when I entered it. As I came along the quiet
+street, I saw three men coming toward me along the sidewalk. They were
+walking abreast. Hoboes, I decided, like myself, who had got up early.
+In this surmise I was not quite correct. I was only sixty-six and
+two-thirds per cent correct. The men on each side were hoboes all
+right, but the man in the middle wasn't. I directed my steps to the
+edge of the sidewalk in order to let the trio go by. But it didn't go
+by. At some word from the man in the centre, all three halted, and he
+of the centre addressed me.
+
+I piped the lay on the instant. He was a "fly-cop" and the two hoboes
+were his prisoners. John Law was up and out after the early worm. I
+was a worm. Had I been richer by the experiences that were to befall
+me in the next several months, I should have turned and run like the
+very devil. He might have shot at me, but he'd have had to hit me to
+get me. He'd have never run after me, for two hoboes in the hand are
+worth more than one on the get-away. But like a dummy I stood still
+when he halted me. Our conversation was brief.
+
+"What hotel are you stopping at?" he queried.
+
+He had me. I wasn't stopping at any hotel, and, since I did not know
+the name of a hotel in the place, I could not claim residence in any
+of them. Also, I was up too early in the morning. Everything was
+against me.
+
+"I just arrived," I said.
+
+"Well, you turn around and walk in front of me, and not too far in
+front. There's somebody wants to see you."
+
+I was "pinched." I knew who wanted to see me. With that "fly-cop" and
+the two hoboes at my heels, and under the direction of the former, I
+led the way to the city jail. There we were searched and our names
+registered. I have forgotten, now, under which name I was registered.
+I gave the name of Jack Drake, but when they searched me, they found
+letters addressed to Jack London. This caused trouble and required
+explanation, all of which has passed from my mind, and to this day I
+do not know whether I was pinched as Jack Drake or Jack London. But
+one or the other, it should be there to-day in the prison register of
+Niagara Falls. Reference can bring it to light. The time was somewhere
+in the latter part of June, 1894. It was only a few days after my
+arrest that the great railroad strike began.
+
+From the office we were led to the "Hobo" and locked in. The "Hobo" is
+that part of a prison where the minor offenders are confined together
+in a large iron cage. Since hoboes constitute the principal division
+of the minor offenders, the aforesaid iron cage is called the Hobo.
+Here we met several hoboes who had already been pinched that morning,
+and every little while the door was unlocked and two or three more
+were thrust in on us. At last, when we totalled sixteen, we were led
+upstairs into the court-room. And now I shall faithfully describe
+what took place in that court-room, for know that my patriotic
+American citizenship there received a shock from which it has never
+fully recovered.
+
+In the court-room were the sixteen prisoners, the judge, and two
+bailiffs. The judge seemed to act as his own clerk. There were no
+witnesses. There were no citizens of Niagara Falls present to look on
+and see how justice was administered in their community. The judge
+glanced at the list of cases before him and called out a name. A hobo
+stood up. The judge glanced at a bailiff. "Vagrancy, your Honor," said
+the bailiff. "Thirty days," said his Honor. The hobo sat down, and the
+judge was calling another name and another hobo was rising to his
+feet.
+
+The trial of that hobo had taken just about fifteen seconds. The trial
+of the next hobo came off with equal celerity. The bailiff said,
+"Vagrancy, your Honor," and his Honor said, "Thirty days." Thus it
+went like clockwork, fifteen seconds to a hobo--and thirty days.
+
+They are poor dumb cattle, I thought to myself. But wait till my turn
+comes; I'll give his Honor a "spiel." Part way along in the
+performance, his Honor, moved by some whim, gave one of us an
+opportunity to speak. As chance would have it, this man was not a
+genuine hobo. He bore none of the ear-marks of the professional
+"stiff." Had he approached the rest of us, while waiting at a
+water-tank for a freight, we should have unhesitatingly classified him as
+a "gay-cat." Gay-cat is the synonym for tenderfoot in Hobo Land. This
+gay-cat was well along in years--somewhere around forty-five, I should
+judge. His shoulders were humped a trifle, and his face was seamed by
+weather-beat.
+
+For many years, according to his story, he had driven team for some
+firm in (if I remember rightly) Lockport, New York. The firm had
+ceased to prosper, and finally, in the hard times of 1893, had gone
+out of business. He had been kept on to the last, though toward the
+last his work had been very irregular. He went on and explained at
+length his difficulties in getting work (when so many were out of
+work) during the succeeding months. In the end, deciding that he would
+find better opportunities for work on the Lakes, he had started for
+Buffalo. Of course he was "broke," and there he was. That was all.
+
+"Thirty days," said his Honor, and called another hobo's name.
+
+Said hobo got up. "Vagrancy, your Honor," said the bailiff, and his
+Honor said, "Thirty days."
+
+And so it went, fifteen seconds and thirty days to each hobo. The
+machine of justice was grinding smoothly. Most likely, considering how
+early it was in the morning, his Honor had not yet had his breakfast
+and was in a hurry.
+
+But my American blood was up. Behind me were the many generations of
+my American ancestry. One of the kinds of liberty those ancestors of
+mine had fought and died for was the right of trial by jury. This was
+my heritage, stained sacred by their blood, and it devolved upon me to
+stand up for it. All right, I threatened to myself; just wait till he
+gets to me.
+
+He got to me. My name, whatever it was, was called, and I stood up.
+The bailiff said, "Vagrancy, your Honor," and I began to talk. But the
+judge began talking at the same time, and he said, "Thirty days." I
+started to protest, but at that moment his Honor was calling the name
+of the next hobo on the list. His Honor paused long enough to say to
+me, "Shut up!" The bailiff forced me to sit down. And the next moment
+that next hobo had received thirty days and the succeeding hobo was
+just in process of getting his.
+
+When we had all been disposed of, thirty days to each stiff, his
+Honor, just as he was about to dismiss us, suddenly turned to the
+teamster from Lockport--the one man he had allowed to talk.
+
+"Why did you quit your job?" his Honor asked.
+
+Now the teamster had already explained how his job had quit him, and
+the question took him aback.
+
+"Your Honor," he began confusedly, "isn't that a funny question to
+ask?"
+
+"Thirty days more for quitting your job," said his Honor, and the
+court was closed. That was the outcome. The teamster got sixty days
+all together, while the rest of us got thirty days.
+
+We were taken down below, locked up, and given breakfast. It was a
+pretty good breakfast, as prison breakfasts go, and it was the best I
+was to get for a month to come.
+
+As for me, I was dazed. Here was I, under sentence, after a farce of a
+trial wherein I was denied not only my right of trial by jury, but my
+right to plead guilty or not guilty. Another thing my fathers had
+fought for flashed through my brain--habeas corpus. I'd show them. But
+when I asked for a lawyer, I was laughed at. Habeas corpus was all
+right, but of what good was it to me when I could communicate with no
+one outside the jail? But I'd show them. They couldn't keep me in jail
+forever. Just wait till I got out, that was all. I'd make them sit up.
+I knew something about the law and my own rights, and I'd expose their
+maladministration of justice. Visions of damage suits and sensational
+newspaper headlines were dancing before my eyes when the jailers came
+in and began hustling us out into the main office.
+
+A policeman snapped a handcuff on my right wrist. (Ah, ha, thought I,
+a new indignity. Just wait till I get out.) On the left wrist of a
+negro he snapped the other handcuff of that pair. He was a very tall
+negro, well past six feet--so tall was he that when we stood side by
+side his hand lifted mine up a trifle in the manacles. Also, he was
+the happiest and the raggedest negro I have ever seen.
+
+We were all handcuffed similarly, in pairs. This accomplished, a
+bright nickel-steel chain was brought forth, run down through the
+links of all the handcuffs, and locked at front and rear of the
+double-line. We were now a chain-gang. The command to march was given,
+and out we went upon the street, guarded by two officers. The tall
+negro and I had the place of honor. We led the procession.
+
+After the tomb-like gloom of the jail, the outside sunshine was
+dazzling. I had never known it to be so sweet as now, a prisoner with
+clanking chains, I knew that I was soon to see the last of it for
+thirty days. Down through the streets of Niagara Falls we marched to
+the railroad station, stared at by curious passers-by, and especially
+by a group of tourists on the veranda of a hotel that we marched past.
+
+There was plenty of slack in the chain, and with much rattling and
+clanking we sat down, two and two, in the seats of the smoking-car.
+Afire with indignation as I was at the outrage that had been
+perpetrated on me and my forefathers, I was nevertheless too
+prosaically practical to lose my head over it. This was all new to me.
+Thirty days of mystery were before me, and I looked about me to find
+somebody who knew the ropes. For I had already learned that I was not
+bound for a petty jail with a hundred or so prisoners in it, but for a
+full-grown penitentiary with a couple of thousand prisoners in it,
+doing anywhere from ten days to ten years.
+
+In the seat behind me, attached to the chain by his wrist, was a
+squat, heavily-built, powerfully-muscled man. He was somewhere between
+thirty-five and forty years of age. I sized him up. In the corners of
+his eyes I saw humor and laughter and kindliness. As for the rest of
+him, he was a brute-beast, wholly unmoral, and with all the passion
+and turgid violence of the brute-beast. What saved him, what made him
+possible for me, were those corners of his eyes--the humor and
+laughter and kindliness of the beast when unaroused.
+
+He was my "meat." I "cottoned" to him. While my cuff-mate, the tall
+negro, mourned with chucklings and laughter over some laundry he was
+sure to lose through his arrest, and while the train rolled on toward
+Buffalo, I talked with the man in the seat behind me. He had an empty
+pipe. I filled it for him with my precious tobacco--enough in a single
+filling to make a dozen cigarettes. Nay, the more we talked the surer
+I was that he was my meat, and I divided all my tobacco with him.
+
+Now it happens that I am a fluid sort of an organism, with sufficient
+kinship with life to fit myself in 'most anywhere. I laid myself out
+to fit in with that man, though little did I dream to what
+extraordinary good purpose I was succeeding. He had never been in the
+particular penitentiary to which we were going, but he had done
+"one-," "two-," and "five-spots" in various other penitentiaries (a
+"spot" is a year), and he was filled with wisdom. We became pretty
+chummy, and my heart bounded when he cautioned me to follow his lead.
+He called me "Jack," and I called him "Jack."
+
+The train stopped at a station about five miles from Buffalo, and we,
+the chain-gang, got off. I do not remember the name of this station,
+but I am confident that it is some one of the following: Rocklyn,
+Rockwood, Black Rock, Rockcastle, or Newcastle. But whatever the name
+of the place, we were walked a short distance and then put on a
+street-car. It was an old-fashioned car, with a seat, running the full
+length, on each side. All the passengers who sat on one side were
+asked to move over to the other side, and we, with a great clanking of
+chain, took their places. We sat facing them, I remember, and I
+remember, too, the awed expression on the faces of the women, who took
+us, undoubtedly, for convicted murderers and bank-robbers. I tried to
+look my fiercest, but that cuff-mate of mine, the too happy negro,
+insisted on rolling his eyes, laughing, and reiterating, "O Lawdy!
+Lawdy!"
+
+We left the car, walked some more, and were led into the office of the
+Erie County Penitentiary. Here we were to register, and on that
+register one or the other of my names will be found. Also, we were
+informed that we must leave in the office all our valuables: money,
+tobacco, matches, pocketknives, and so forth.
+
+My new pal shook his head at me.
+
+"If you do not leave your things here, they will be confiscated
+inside," warned the official.
+
+Still my pal shook his head. He was busy with his hands, hiding his
+movements behind the other fellows. (Our handcuffs had been removed.)
+I watched him, and followed suit, wrapping up in a bundle in my
+handkerchief all the things I wanted to take in. These bundles the two
+of us thrust into our shirts. I noticed that our fellow-prisoners,
+with the exception of one or two who had watches, did not turn over
+their belongings to the man in the office. They were determined to
+smuggle them in somehow, trusting to luck; but they were not so wise
+as my pal, for they did not wrap their things in bundles.
+
+Our erstwhile guardians gathered up the handcuffs and chain and
+departed for Niagara Falls, while we, under new guardians, were led
+away into the prison. While we were in the office, our number had been
+added to by other squads of newly arrived prisoners, so that we were
+now a procession forty or fifty strong.
+
+Know, ye unimprisoned, that traffic is as restricted inside a large
+prison as commerce was in the Middle Ages. Once inside a penitentiary,
+one cannot move about at will. Every few steps are encountered great
+steel doors or gates which are always kept locked. We were bound for
+the barber-shop, but we encountered delays in the unlocking of doors
+for us. We were thus delayed in the first "hall" we entered. A "hall"
+is not a corridor. Imagine an oblong cube, built out of bricks and
+rising six stories high, each story a row of cells, say fifty cells in
+a row--in short, imagine a cube of colossal honeycomb. Place this cube
+on the ground and enclose it in a building with a roof overhead and
+walls all around. Such a cube and encompassing building constitute a
+"hall" in the Erie County Penitentiary. Also, to complete the picture,
+see a narrow gallery, with steel railing, running the full length of
+each tier of cells and at the ends of the oblong cube see all these
+galleries, from both sides, connected by a fire-escape system of
+narrow steel stairways.
+
+We were halted in the first hall, waiting for some guard to unlock a
+door. Here and there, moving about, were convicts, with close-cropped
+heads and shaven faces, and garbed in prison stripes. One such convict
+I noticed above us on the gallery of the third tier of cells. He was
+standing on the gallery and leaning forward, his arms resting on the
+railing, himself apparently oblivious of our presence. He seemed
+staring into vacancy. My pal made a slight hissing noise. The convict
+glanced down. Motioned signals passed between them. Then through the
+air soared the handkerchief bundle of my pal. The convict caught it,
+and like a flash it was out of sight in his shirt and he was staring
+into vacancy. My pal had told me to follow his lead. I watched my
+chance when the guard's back was turned, and my bundle followed the
+other one into the shirt of the convict.
+
+A minute later the door was unlocked, and we filed into the
+barber-shop. Here were more men in convict stripes. They were the
+prison barbers. Also, there were bath-tubs, hot water, soap, and
+scrubbing-brushes. We were ordered to strip and bathe, each man to
+scrub his neighbor's back--a needless precaution, this compulsory
+bath, for the prison swarmed with vermin. After the bath, we were each
+given a canvas clothes-bag.
+
+"Put all your clothes in the bags," said the guard. "It's no good
+trying to smuggle anything in. You've got to line up naked for
+inspection. Men for thirty days or less keep their shoes and
+suspenders. Men for more than thirty days keep nothing."
+
+This announcement was received with consternation. How could naked men
+smuggle anything past an inspection? Only my pal and I were safe. But
+it was right here that the convict barbers got in their work. They
+passed among the poor newcomers, kindly volunteering to take charge of
+their precious little belongings, and promising to return them later
+in the day. Those barbers were philanthropists--to hear them talk. As
+in the case of Fra Lippo Lippi, never was there such prompt
+disemburdening. Matches, tobacco, rice-paper, pipes, knives, money,
+everything, flowed into the capacious shirts of the barbers. They
+fairly bulged with the spoil, and the guards made believe not to see.
+To cut the story short, nothing was ever returned. The barbers never
+had any intention of returning what they had taken. They considered it
+legitimately theirs. It was the barber-shop graft. There were many
+grafts in that prison, as I was to learn; and I, too, was destined to
+become a grafter--thanks to my new pal.
+
+There were several chairs, and the barbers worked rapidly. The
+quickest shaves and hair-cuts I have ever seen were given in that
+shop. The men lathered themselves, and the barbers shaved them at the
+rate of a minute to a man. A hair-cut took a trifle longer. In three
+minutes the down of eighteen was scraped from my face, and my head was
+as smooth as a billiard-ball just sprouting a crop of bristles.
+Beards, mustaches, like our clothes and everything, came off. Take my
+word for it, we were a villainous-looking gang when they got through
+with us. I had not realized before how really altogether bad we were.
+
+Then came the line-up, forty or fifty of us, naked as Kipling's heroes
+who stormed Lungtungpen. To search us was easy. There were only our
+shoes and ourselves. Two or three rash spirits, who had doubted the
+barbers, had the goods found on them--which goods, namely, tobacco,
+pipes, matches, and small change, were quickly confiscated. This over,
+our new clothes were brought to us--stout prison shirts, and coats and
+trousers conspicuously striped. I had always lingered under the
+impression that the convict stripes were put on a man only after he
+had been convicted of a felony. I lingered no longer, but put on the
+insignia of shame and got my first taste of marching the lock-step.
+
+In single file, close together, each man's hands on the shoulders of
+the man in front, we marched on into another large hall. Here we were
+ranged up against the wall in a long line and ordered to strip our
+left arms. A youth, a medical student who was getting in his practice
+on cattle such as we, came down the line. He vaccinated just about
+four times as rapidly as the barbers shaved. With a final caution to
+avoid rubbing our arms against anything, and to let the blood dry so
+as to form the scab, we were led away to our cells. Here my pal and I
+parted, but not before he had time to whisper to me, "Suck it out."
+
+As soon as I was locked in, I sucked my arm clean. And afterward I saw
+men who had not sucked and who had horrible holes in their arms into
+which I could have thrust my fist. It was their own fault. They could
+have sucked.
+
+In my cell was another man. We were to be cell-mates. He was a young,
+manly fellow, not talkative, but very capable, indeed as splendid a
+fellow as one could meet with in a day's ride, and this in spite of
+the fact that he had just recently finished a two-year term in some
+Ohio penitentiary.
+
+Hardly had we been in our cell half an hour, when a convict sauntered
+down the gallery and looked in. It was my pal. He had the freedom of
+the hall, he explained. He was unlocked at six in the morning and not
+locked up again till nine at night. He was in with the "push" in that
+hall, and had been promptly appointed a trusty of the kind technically
+known as "hall-man." The man who had appointed him was also a prisoner
+and a trusty, and was known as "First Hall-man." There were thirteen
+hall-men in that hall. Ten of them had charge each of a gallery of
+cells, and over them were the First, Second, and Third Hall-men.
+
+We newcomers were to stay in our cells for the rest of the day, my pal
+informed me, so that the vaccine would have a chance to take. Then
+next morning we would be put to hard labor in the prison-yard.
+
+"But I'll get you out of the work as soon as I can," he promised.
+"I'll get one of the hall-men fired and have you put in his place."
+
+He put his hand into his shirt, drew out the handkerchief containing
+my precious belongings, passed it in to me through the bars, and went
+on down the gallery.
+
+I opened the bundle. Everything was there. Not even a match was
+missing. I shared the makings of a cigarette with my cell-mate. When I
+started to strike a match for a light, he stopped me. A flimsy, dirty
+comforter lay in each of our bunks for bedding. He tore off a narrow
+strip of the thin cloth and rolled it tightly and telescopically into
+a long and slender cylinder. This he lighted with a precious match.
+The cylinder of tight-rolled cotton cloth did not flame. On the end a
+coal of fire slowly smouldered. It would last for hours, and my
+cell-mate called it a "punk." And when it burned short, all that was
+necessary was to make a new punk, put the end of it against the old,
+blow on them, and so transfer the glowing coal. Why, we could have
+given Prometheus pointers on the conserving of fire.
+
+At twelve o'clock dinner was served. At the bottom of our cage door
+was a small opening like the entrance of a runway in a chicken-yard.
+Through this were thrust two hunks of dry bread and two pannikins of
+"soup." A portion of soup consisted of about a quart of hot water with
+floating on its surface a lonely drop of grease. Also, there was some
+salt in that water.
+
+We drank the soup, but we did not eat the bread. Not that we were not
+hungry, and not that the bread was uneatable. It was fairly good
+bread. But we had reasons. My cell-mate had discovered that our cell
+was alive with bed-bugs. In all the cracks and interstices between the
+bricks where the mortar had fallen out flourished great colonies. The
+natives even ventured out in the broad daylight and swarmed over the
+walls and ceiling by hundreds. My cell-mate was wise in the ways of
+the beasts. Like Childe Roland, dauntless the slug-horn to his lips he
+bore. Never was there such a battle. It lasted for hours. It was
+shambles. And when the last survivors fled to their brick-and-mortar
+fastnesses, our work was only half done. We chewed mouthfuls of our
+bread until it was reduced to the consistency of putty. When a fleeing
+belligerent escaped into a crevice between the bricks, we promptly
+walled him in with a daub of the chewed bread. We toiled on until the
+light grew dim and until every hole, nook, and cranny was closed. I
+shudder to think of the tragedies of starvation and cannibalism that
+must have ensued behind those bread-plastered ramparts.
+
+We threw ourselves on our bunks, tired out and hungry, to wait for
+supper. It was a good day's work well done. In the weeks to come we at
+least should not suffer from the hosts of vermin. We had foregone our
+dinner, saved our hides at the expense of our stomachs; but we were
+content. Alas for the futility of human effort! Scarcely was our long
+task completed when a guard unlocked our door. A redistribution of
+prisoners was being made, and we were taken to another cell and locked
+in two galleries higher up.
+
+Early next morning our cells were unlocked, and down in the hall the
+several hundred prisoners of us formed the lock-step and marched out
+into the prison-yard to go to work. The Erie Canal runs right by the
+back yard of the Erie County Penitentiary. Our task was to unload
+canal-boats, carrying huge stay-bolts on our shoulders, like railroad
+ties, into the prison. As I worked I sized up the situation and
+studied the chances for a get-away. There wasn't the ghost of a show.
+Along the tops of the walls marched guards armed with repeating
+rifles, and I was told, furthermore, that there were machine-guns in
+the sentry-towers.
+
+I did not worry. Thirty days were not so long. I'd stay those thirty
+days, and add to the store of material I intended to use, when I got
+out, against the harpies of justice. I'd show what an American boy
+could do when his rights and privileges had been trampled on the way
+mine had. I had been denied my right of trial by jury; I had been
+denied my right to plead guilty or not guilty; I had been denied a
+trial even (for I couldn't consider that what I had received at
+Niagara Falls was a trial); I had not been allowed to communicate with
+a lawyer nor any one, and hence had been denied my right of suing for
+a writ of habeas corpus; my face had been shaved, my hair cropped
+close, convict stripes had been put upon my body; I was forced to toil
+hard on a diet of bread and water and to march the shameful lock-step
+with armed guards over me--and all for what? What had I done? What
+crime had I committed against the good citizens of Niagara Falls that
+all this vengeance should be wreaked upon me? I had not even violated
+their "sleeping-out" ordinance. I had slept outside their
+jurisdiction, in the country, that night. I had not even begged for a
+meal, or battered for a "light piece" on their streets. All that I had
+done was to walk along their sidewalk and gaze at their picayune
+waterfall. And what crime was there in that? Technically I was guilty
+of no misdemeanor. All right, I'd show them when I got out.
+
+The next day I talked with a guard. I wanted to send for a lawyer. The
+guard laughed at me. So did the other guards. I really was
+_incommunicado_ so far as the outside world was concerned. I tried to
+write a letter out, but I learned that all letters were read, and
+censured or confiscated, by the prison authorities, and that
+"short-timers" were not allowed to write letters anyway. A little
+later I tried smuggling letters out by men who were released, but I
+learned that they were searched and the letters found and destroyed.
+Never mind. It all helped to make it a blacker case when I did get
+out.
+
+But as the prison days went by (which I shall describe in the next
+chapter), I "learned a few." I heard tales of the police, and
+police-courts, and lawyers, that were unbelievable and monstrous. Men,
+prisoners, told me of personal experiences with the police of great
+cities that were awful. And more awful were the hearsay tales they
+told me concerning men who had died at the hands of the police and who
+therefore could not testify for themselves. Years afterward, in the
+report of the Lexow Committee, I was to read tales true and more awful
+than those told to me. But in the meantime, during the first days of
+my imprisonment, I scoffed at what I heard.
+
+As the days went by, however, I began to grow convinced. I saw with my
+own eyes, there in that prison, things unbelievable and monstrous. And
+the more convinced I became, the profounder grew the respect in me for
+the sleuth-hounds of the law and for the whole institution of criminal
+justice.
+
+My indignation ebbed away, and into my being rushed the tides of fear.
+I saw at last, clear-eyed, what I was up against. I grew meek and
+lowly. Each day I resolved more emphatically to make no rumpus when I
+got out. All I asked, when I got out, was a chance to fade away from
+the landscape. And that was just what I did do when I was released. I
+kept my tongue between my teeth, walked softly, and sneaked for
+Pennsylvania, a wiser and a humbler man.
+
+
+
+
+THE PEN
+
+
+For two days I toiled in the prison-yard. It was heavy work, and, in
+spite of the fact that I malingered at every opportunity, I was played
+out. This was because of the food. No man could work hard on such
+food. Bread and water, that was all that was given us. Once a week we
+were supposed to get meat; but this meat did not always go around, and
+since all nutriment had first been boiled out of it in the making of
+soup, it didn't matter whether one got a taste of it once a week or
+not.
+
+Furthermore, there was one vital defect in the bread-and-water diet.
+While we got plenty of water, we did not get enough of the bread. A
+ration of bread was about the size of one's two fists, and three
+rations a day were given to each prisoner. There was one good thing, I
+must say, about the water--it was hot. In the morning it was called
+"coffee," at noon it was dignified as "soup," and at night it
+masqueraded as "tea." But it was the same old water all the time. The
+prisoners called it "water bewitched." In the morning it was black
+water, the color being due to boiling it with burnt bread-crusts. At
+noon it was served minus the color, with salt and a drop of grease
+added. At night it was served with a purplish-auburn hue that defied
+all speculation; it was darn poor tea, but it was dandy hot water.
+
+We were a hungry lot in the Erie County Pen. Only the "long-timers"
+knew what it was to have enough to eat. The reason for this was that
+they would have died after a time on the fare we "short-timers"
+received. I know that the long-timers got more substantial grub,
+because there was a whole row of them on the ground floor in our hall,
+and when I was a trusty, I used to steal from their grub while serving
+them. Man cannot live on bread alone and not enough of it.
+
+My pal delivered the goods. After two days of work in the yard I was
+taken out of my cell and made a trusty, a "hall-man." At morning and
+night we served the bread to the prisoners in their cells; but at
+twelve o'clock a different method was used. The convicts marched in
+from work in a long line. As they entered the door of our hall, they
+broke the lock-step and took their hands down from the shoulders of
+their line-mates. Just inside the door were piled trays of bread, and
+here also stood the First Hall-man and two ordinary hall-men. I was
+one of the two. Our task was to hold the trays of bread as the line of
+convicts filed past. As soon as the tray, say, that I was holding was
+emptied, the other hall-man took my place with a full tray. And when
+his was emptied, I took his place with a full tray. Thus the line
+tramped steadily by, each man reaching with his right hand and taking
+one ration of bread from the extended tray.
+
+The task of the First Hall-man was different. He used a club. He stood
+beside the tray and watched. The hungry wretches could never get over
+the delusion that sometime they could manage to get two rations of
+bread out of the tray. But in my experience that sometime never came.
+The club of the First Hall-man had a way of flashing out--quick as the
+stroke of a tiger's claw--to the hand that dared ambitiously. The
+First Hall-man was a good judge of distance, and he had smashed so
+many hands with that club that he had become infallible. He never
+missed, and he usually punished the offending convict by taking his
+one ration away from him and sending him to his cell to make his meal
+off of hot water.
+
+And at times, while all these men lay hungry in their cells, I have
+seen a hundred or so extra rations of bread hidden away in the cells
+of the hall-men. It would seem absurd, our retaining this bread. But
+it was one of our grafts. We were economic masters inside our hall,
+turning the trick in ways quite similar to the economic masters of
+civilization. We controlled the food-supply of the population, and,
+just like our brother bandits outside, we made the people pay through
+the nose for it. We peddled the bread. Once a week, the men who worked
+in the yard received a five-cent plug of chewing tobacco. This chewing
+tobacco was the coin of the realm. Two or three rations of bread for a
+plug was the way we exchanged, and they traded, not because they loved
+tobacco less, but because they loved bread more. Oh, I know, it was
+like taking candy from a baby, but what would you? We had to live. And
+certainly there should be some reward for initiative and enterprise.
+Besides, we but patterned ourselves after our betters outside the
+walls, who, on a larger scale, and under the respectable disguise of
+merchants, bankers, and captains of industry, did precisely what we
+were doing. What awful things would have happened to those poor
+wretches if it hadn't been for us, I can't imagine. Heaven knows we
+put bread into circulation in the Erie County Pen. Ay, and we
+encouraged frugality and thrift ... in the poor devils who forewent
+their tobacco. And then there was our example. In the breast of every
+convict there we implanted the ambition to become even as we and run a
+graft. Saviours of society--I guess yes.
+
+Here was a hungry man without any tobacco. Maybe he was a profligate
+and had used it all up on himself. Very good; he had a pair of
+suspenders. I exchanged half a dozen rations of bread for it--or a
+dozen rations if the suspenders were very good. Now I never wore
+suspenders, but that didn't matter. Around the corner lodged a
+long-timer, doing ten years for manslaughter. He wore suspenders, and
+he wanted a pair. I could trade them to him for some of his meat. Meat
+was what I wanted. Or perhaps he had a tattered, paper-covered novel.
+That was treasure-trove. I could read it and then trade it off to the
+bakers for cake, or to the cooks for meat and vegetables, or to the
+firemen for decent coffee, or to some one or other for the newspaper
+that occasionally filtered in, heaven alone knows how. The cooks,
+bakers, and firemen were prisoners like myself, and they lodged in our
+hall in the first row of cells over us.
+
+In short, a full-grown system of barter obtained in the Erie County
+Pen. There was even money in circulation. This money was sometimes
+smuggled in by the short-timers, more frequently came from the
+barber-shop graft, where the newcomers were mulcted, but most of all
+flowed from the cells of the long-timers--though how they got it I
+don't know.
+
+What of his preeminent position, the First Hall-man was reputed to be
+quite wealthy. In addition to his miscellaneous grafts, he grafted on
+us. We farmed the general wretchedness, and the First Hall-man was
+Farmer-General over all of us. We held our particular grafts by his
+permission, and we had to pay for that permission. As I say, he was
+reputed to be wealthy; but we never saw his money, and he lived in a
+cell all to himself in solitary grandeur.
+
+But that money was made in the Pen I had direct evidence, for I was
+cell-mate quite a time with the Third Hall-man. He had over sixteen
+dollars. He used to count his money every night after nine o'clock,
+when we were locked in. Also, he used to tell me each night what he
+would do to me if I gave away on him to the other hall-men. You see,
+he was afraid of being robbed, and danger threatened him from three
+different directions. There were the guards. A couple of them might
+jump upon him, give him a good beating for alleged insubordination,
+and throw him into the "solitaire" (the dungeon); and in the mix-up
+that sixteen dollars of his would take wings. Then again, the First
+Hall-man could have taken it all away from him by threatening to
+dismiss him and fire him back to hard labor in the prison-yard. And
+yet again, there were the ten of us who were ordinary hall-men. If we
+got an inkling of his wealth, there was a large liability, some quiet
+day, of the whole bunch of us getting him into a corner and dragging
+him down. Oh, we were wolves, believe me--just like the fellows who do
+business in Wall Street.
+
+He had good reason to be afraid of us, and so had I to be afraid of
+him. He was a huge, illiterate brute, an ex-Chesapeake-Bay-oyster-pirate,
+an "ex-con" who had done five years in Sing Sing, and a general
+all-around stupidly carnivorous beast. He used to trap sparrows that
+flew into our hall through the open bars. When he made a capture, he
+hurried away with it into his cell, where I have seen him crunching
+bones and spitting out feathers as he bolted it raw. Oh, no, I never
+gave away on him to the other hall-men. This is the first time I have
+mentioned his sixteen dollars.
+
+But I grafted on him just the same. He was in love with a woman
+prisoner who was confined in the "female department." He could neither
+read nor write, and I used to read her letters to him and write his
+replies. And I made him pay for it, too. But they were good letters. I
+laid myself out on them, put in my best licks, and furthermore, I won
+her for him; though I shrewdly guess that she was in love, not with
+him, but with the humble scribe. I repeat, those letters were great.
+
+Another one of our grafts was "passing the punk." We were the
+celestial messengers, the fire-bringers, in that iron world of bolt
+and bar. When the men came in from work at night and were locked in
+their cells, they wanted to smoke. Then it was that we restored the
+divine spark, running the galleries, from cell to cell, with our
+smouldering punks. Those who were wise, or with whom we did business,
+had their punks all ready to light. Not every one got divine sparks,
+however. The guy who refused to dig up, went sparkless and smokeless
+to bed. But what did we care? We had the immortal cinch on him, and if
+he got fresh, two or three of us would pitch on him and give him
+"what-for."
+
+You see, this was the working-theory of the hall-men. There were
+thirteen of us. We had something like half a thousand prisoners in our
+hall. We were supposed to do the work, and to keep order. The latter
+was the function of the guards, which they turned over to us. It was
+up to us to keep order; if we didn't, we'd be fired back to hard
+labor, most probably with a taste of the dungeon thrown in. But so
+long as we maintained order, that long could we work our own
+particular grafts.
+
+Bear with me a moment and look at the problem. Here were thirteen
+beasts of us over half a thousand other beasts. It was a living hell,
+that prison, and it was up to us thirteen there to rule. It was
+impossible, considering the nature of the beasts, for us to rule by
+kindness. We ruled by fear. Of course, behind us, backing us up, were
+the guards. In extremity we called upon them for help; but it would
+bother them if we called upon them too often, in which event we could
+depend upon it that they would get more efficient trusties to take our
+places. But we did not call upon them often, except in a quiet sort of
+way, when we wanted a cell unlocked in order to get at a refractory
+prisoner inside. In such cases all the guard did was to unlock the
+door and walk away so as not to be a witness of what happened when
+half a dozen hall-men went inside and did a bit of man-handling.
+
+As regards the details of this man-handling I shall say nothing. And
+after all, man-handling was merely one of the very minor unprintable
+horrors of the Erie County Pen. I say "unprintable"; and in justice I
+must also say "unthinkable." They were unthinkable to me until I saw
+them, and I was no spring chicken in the ways of the world and the
+awful abysses of human degradation. It would take a deep plummet to
+reach bottom in the Erie County Pen, and I do but skim lightly and
+facetiously the surface of things as I there saw them.
+
+At times, say in the morning when the prisoners came down to wash, the
+thirteen of us would be practically alone in the midst of them, and
+every last one of them had it in for us. Thirteen against five
+hundred, and we ruled by fear. We could not permit the slightest
+infraction of rules, the slightest insolence. If we did, we were lost.
+Our own rule was to hit a man as soon as he opened his mouth--hit him
+hard, hit him with anything. A broom-handle, end-on, in the face, had
+a very sobering effect. But that was not all. Such a man must be made
+an example of; so the next rule was to wade right in and follow him
+up. Of course, one was sure that every hall-man in sight would come on
+the run to join in the chastisement; for this also was a rule.
+Whenever any hall-man was in trouble with a prisoner, the duty of any
+other hall-man who happened to be around was to lend a fist. Never
+mind the merits of the case--wade in and hit, and hit with anything;
+in short, lay the man out.
+
+I remember a handsome young mulatto of about twenty who got the insane
+idea into his head that he should stand for his rights. And he did
+have the right of it, too; but that didn't help him any. He lived on
+the topmost gallery. Eight hall-men took the conceit out of him in
+just about a minute and a half--for that was the length of time
+required to travel along his gallery to the end and down five flights
+of steel stairs. He travelled the whole distance on every portion of
+his anatomy except his feet, and the eight hall-men were not idle. The
+mulatto struck the pavement where I was standing watching it all. He
+regained his feet and stood upright for a moment. In that moment he
+threw his arms wide apart and omitted an awful scream of terror and
+pain and heartbreak. At the same instant, as in a transformation
+scene, the shreds of his stout prison clothes fell from him, leaving
+him wholly naked and streaming blood from every portion of the surface
+of his body. Then he collapsed in a heap, unconscious. He had learned
+his lesson, and every convict within those walls who heard him scream
+had learned a lesson. So had I learned mine. It is not a nice thing to
+see a man's heart broken in a minute and a half.
+
+The following will illustrate how we drummed up business in the graft
+of passing the punk. A row of newcomers is installed in your cells.
+You pass along before the bars with your punk. "Hey, Bo, give us a
+light," some one calls to you. Now this is an advertisement that that
+particular man has tobacco on him. You pass in the punk and go your
+way. A little later you come back and lean up casually against the
+bars. "Say, Bo, can you let us have a little tobacco?" is what you
+say. If he is not wise to the game, the chances are that he solemnly
+avers that he hasn't any more tobacco. All very well. You condole with
+him and go your way. But you know that his punk will last him only the
+rest of that day. Next day you come by, and he says again, "Hey, Bo,
+give us a light." And you say, "You haven't any tobacco and you don't
+need a light." And you don't give him any, either. Half an hour after,
+or an hour or two or three hours, you will be passing by and the man
+will call out to you in mild tones, "Come here, Bo." And you come. You
+thrust your hand between the bars and have it filled with precious
+tobacco. Then you give him a light.
+
+Sometimes, however, a newcomer arrives, upon whom no grafts are to be
+worked. The mysterious word is passed along that he is to be treated
+decently. Where this word originated I could never learn. The one
+thing patent is that the man has a "pull." It may be with one of the
+superior hall-men; it may be with one of the guards in some other part
+of the prison; it may be that good treatment has been purchased from
+grafters higher up; but be it as it may, we know that it is up to us
+to treat him decently if we want to avoid trouble.
+
+We hall-men were middle-men and common carriers. We arranged trades
+between convicts confined in different parts of the prison, and we put
+through the exchange. Also, we took our commissions coming and going.
+Sometimes the objects traded had to go through the hands of half a
+dozen middle-men, each of whom took his whack, or in some way or
+another was paid for his service.
+
+Sometimes one was in debt for services, and sometimes one had others
+in his debt. Thus, I entered the prison in debt to the convict who
+smuggled in my things for me. A week or so afterward, one of the
+firemen passed a letter into my hand. It had been given to him by a
+barber. The barber had received it from the convict who had smuggled
+in my things. Because of my debt to him I was to carry the letter on.
+But he had not written the letter. The original sender was a
+long-timer in his hall. The letter was for a woman prisoner in the
+female department. But whether it was intended for her, or whether
+she, in turn, was one of the chain of go-betweens, I did not know. All
+that I knew was her description, and that it was up to me to get it
+into her hands.
+
+Two days passed, during which time I kept the letter in my possession;
+then the opportunity came. The women did the mending of all the
+clothes worn by the convicts. A number of our hall-men had to go to
+the female department to bring back huge bundles of clothes. I fixed
+it with the First Hall-man that I was to go along. Door after door was
+unlocked for us as we threaded our way across the prison to the
+women's quarters. We entered a large room where the women sat working
+at their mending. My eyes were peeled for the woman who had been
+described to me. I located her and worked near to her. Two eagle-eyed
+matrons were on watch. I held the letter in my palm, and I looked my
+intention at the woman. She knew I had something for her; she must
+have been expecting it, and had set herself to divining, at the moment
+we entered, which of us was the messenger. But one of the matrons
+stood within two feet of her. Already the hall-men were picking up the
+bundles they were to carry away. The moment was passing. I delayed
+with my bundle, making believe that it was not tied securely. Would
+that matron ever look away? Or was I to fail? And just then another
+woman cut up playfully with one of the hall-men--stuck out her foot
+and tripped him, or pinched him, or did something or other. The matron
+looked that way and reprimanded the woman sharply. Now I do not know
+whether or not this was all planned to distract the matron's
+attention, but I did know that it was my opportunity. My particular
+woman's hand dropped from her lap down by her side. I stooped to pick
+up my bundle. From my stooping position I slipped the letter into her
+hand, and received another in exchange. The next moment the bundle
+was on my shoulder, the matron's gaze had returned to me because I was
+the last hall-man, and I was hastening to catch up with my companions.
+The letter I had received from the woman I turned over to the fireman,
+and thence it passed through the hands of the barber, of the convict
+who had smuggled in my things, and on to the long-timer at the other
+end.
+
+Often we conveyed letters, the chain of communication of which was so
+complex that we knew neither sender nor sendee. We were but links in
+the chain. Somewhere, somehow, a convict would thrust a letter into my
+hand with the instruction to pass it on to the next link. All such
+acts were favors to be reciprocated later on, when I should be acting
+directly with a principal in transmitting letters, and from whom I
+should be receiving my pay. The whole prison was covered by a network
+of lines of communication. And we who were in control of the system of
+communication, naturally, since we were modelled after capitalistic
+society, exacted heavy tolls from our customers. It was service for
+profit with a vengeance, though we were at times not above giving
+service for love.
+
+And all the time I was in the Pen I was making myself solid with my
+pal. He had done much for me, and in return he expected me to do as
+much for him. When we got out, we were to travel together, and, it
+goes without saying, pull off "jobs" together. For my pal was a
+criminal--oh, not a jewel of the first water, merely a petty criminal
+who would steal and rob, commit burglary, and, if cornered, not stop
+short of murder. Many a quiet hour we sat and talked together. He had
+two or three jobs in view for the immediate future, in which my work
+was cut out for me, and in which I joined in planning the details. I
+had been with and seen much of criminals, and my pal never dreamed
+that I was only fooling him, giving him a string thirty days long. He
+thought I was the real goods, liked me because I was not stupid, and
+liked me a bit, too, I think, for myself. Of course I had not the
+slightest intention of joining him in a life of sordid, petty crime;
+but I'd have been an idiot to throw away all the good things his
+friendship made possible. When one is on the hot lava of hell, he
+cannot pick and choose his path, and so it was with me in the Erie
+County Pen. I had to stay in with the "push," or do hard labor on
+bread and water; and to stay in with the push I had to make good with
+my pal.
+
+Life was not monotonous in the Pen. Every day something was happening:
+men were having fits, going crazy, fighting, or the hall-men were
+getting drunk. Rover Jack, one of the ordinary hall-men, was our star
+"oryide." He was a true "profesh," a "blowed-in-the-glass" stiff, and
+as such received all kinds of latitude from the hall-men in authority.
+Pittsburg Joe, who was Second Hall-man, used to join Rover Jack in his
+jags; and it was a saying of the pair that the Erie County Pen was the
+only place where a man could get "slopped" and not be arrested. I
+never knew, but I was told that bromide of potassium, gained in
+devious ways from the dispensary, was the dope they used. But I do
+know, whatever their dope was, that they got good and drunk on
+occasion.
+
+Our hall was a common stews, filled with the ruck and the filth, the
+scum and dregs, of society--hereditary inefficients, degenerates,
+wrecks, lunatics, addled intelligences, epileptics, monsters,
+weaklings, in short, a very nightmare of humanity. Hence, fits
+flourished with us. These fits seemed contagious. When one man began
+throwing a fit, others followed his lead. I have seen seven men down
+with fits at the same time, making the air hideous with their cries,
+while as many more lunatics would be raging and gibbering up and down.
+Nothing was ever done for the men with fits except to throw cold water
+on them. It was useless to send for the medical student or the doctor.
+They were not to be bothered with such trivial and frequent
+occurrences.
+
+There was a young Dutch boy, about eighteen years of age, who had fits
+most frequently of all. He usually threw one every day. It was for
+that reason that we kept him on the ground floor farther down in the
+row of cells in which we lodged. After he had had a few fits in the
+prison-yard, the guards refused to be bothered with him any more, and
+so he remained locked up in his cell all day with a Cockney cell-mate,
+to keep him company. Not that the Cockney was of any use. Whenever the
+Dutch boy had a fit, the Cockney became paralyzed with terror.
+
+The Dutch boy could not speak a word of English. He was a farmer's
+boy, serving ninety days as punishment for having got into a scrap
+with some one. He prefaced his fits with howling. He howled like a
+wolf. Also, he took his fits standing up, which was very inconvenient
+for him, for his fits always culminated in a headlong pitch to the
+floor. Whenever I heard the long wolf-howl rising, I used to grab a
+broom and run to his cell. Now the trusties were not allowed keys to
+the cells, so I could not get in to him. He would stand up in the
+middle of his narrow cell, shivering convulsively, his eyes rolled
+backward till only the whites were visible, and howling like a lost
+soul. Try as I would, I could never get the Cockney to lend him a
+hand. While he stood and howled, the Cockney crouched and trembled in
+the upper bunk, his terror-stricken gaze fixed on that awful figure,
+with eyes rolled back, that howled and howled. It was hard on him,
+too, the poor devil of a Cockney. His own reason was not any too
+firmly seated, and the wonder is that he did not go mad.
+
+All that I could do was my best with the broom. I would thrust it
+through the bars, train it on Dutchy's chest, and wait. As the crisis
+approached he would begin swaying back and forth. I followed this
+swaying with the broom, for there was no telling when he would take
+that dreadful forward pitch. But when he did, I was there with the
+broom, catching him and easing him down. Contrive as I would, he never
+came down quite gently, and his face was usually bruised by the stone
+floor. Once down and writhing in convulsions, I'd throw a bucket of
+water over him. I don't know whether cold water was the right thing or
+not, but it was the custom in the Erie County Pen. Nothing more than
+that was ever done for him. He would lie there, wet, for an hour or
+so, and then crawl into his bunk. I knew better than to run to a guard
+for assistance. What was a man with a fit, anyway?
+
+In the adjoining cell lived a strange character--a man who was doing
+sixty days for eating swill out of Barnum's swill-barrel, or at least
+that was the way he put it. He was a badly addled creature, and, at
+first, very mild and gentle. The facts of his case were as he had
+stated them. He had strayed out to the circus ground, and, being
+hungry, had made his way to the barrel that contained the refuse from
+the table of the circus people. "And it was good bread," he often
+assured me; "and the meat was out of sight." A policeman had seen him
+and arrested him, and there he was.
+
+Once I passed his cell with a piece of stiff thin wire in my hand. He
+asked me for it so earnestly that I passed it through the bars to him.
+Promptly, and with no tool but his fingers, he broke it into short
+lengths and twisted them into half a dozen very creditable safety
+pins. He sharpened the points on the stone floor. Thereafter I did
+quite a trade in safety pins. I furnished the raw material and peddled
+the finished product, and he did the work. As wages, I paid him extra
+rations of bread, and once in a while a chunk of meat or a piece of
+soup-bone with some marrow inside.
+
+But his imprisonment told on him, and he grew violent day by day. The
+hall-men took delight in teasing him. They filled his weak brain with
+stories of a great fortune that had been left him. It was in order to
+rob him of it that he had been arrested and sent to jail. Of course,
+as he himself knew, there was no law against eating out of a barrel.
+Therefore he was wrongly imprisoned. It was a plot to deprive him of
+his fortune.
+
+The first I knew of it, I heard the hall-men laughing about the string
+they had given him. Next he held a serious conference with me, in
+which he told me of his millions and the plot to deprive him of them,
+and in which he appointed me his detective. I did my best to let him
+down gently, speaking vaguely of a mistake, and that it was another
+man with a similar name who was the rightful heir. I left him quite
+cooled down; but I couldn't keep the hall-men away from him, and they
+continued to string him worse than ever. In the end, after a most
+violent scene, he threw me down, revoked my private detectiveship, and
+went on strike. My trade in safety pins ceased. He refused to make any
+more safety pins, and he peppered me with raw material through the
+bars of his cell when I passed by.
+
+I could never make it up with him. The other hall-men told him that I
+was a detective in the employ of the conspirators. And in the meantime
+the hall-men drove him mad with their stringing. His fictitious wrongs
+preyed upon his mind, and at last he became a dangerous and homicidal
+lunatic. The guards refused to listen to his tale of stolen millions,
+and he accused them of being in the plot. One day he threw a pannikin
+of hot tea over one of them, and then his case was investigated. The
+warden talked with him a few minutes through the bars of his cell.
+Then he was taken away for examination before the doctors. He never
+came back, and I often wonder if he is dead, or if he still gibbers
+about his millions in some asylum for the insane.
+
+At last came the day of days, my release. It was the day of release
+for the Third Hall-man as well, and the short-timer girl I had won for
+him was waiting for him outside the wall. They went away blissfully
+together. My pal and I went out together, and together we walked down
+into Buffalo. Were we not to be together always? We begged together on
+the "main-drag" that day for pennies, and what we received was spent
+for "shupers" of beer--I don't know how they are spelled, but they are
+pronounced the way I have spelled them, and they cost three cents. I
+was watching my chance all the time for a get-away. From some bo on
+the drag I managed to learn what time a certain freight pulled out. I
+calculated my time accordingly. When the moment came, my pal and I
+were in a saloon. Two foaming shupers were before us. I'd have liked
+to say good-by. He had been good to me. But I did not dare. I went out
+through the rear of the saloon and jumped the fence. It was a swift
+sneak, and a few minutes later I was on board a freight and heading
+south on the Western New York and Pennsylvania Railroad.
+
+
+
+
+HOBOES THAT PASS IN THE NIGHT
+
+
+In the course of my tramping I encountered hundreds of hoboes, whom I
+hailed or who hailed me, and with whom I waited at water-tanks,
+"boiled-up," cooked "mulligans," "battered" the "drag" or "privates,"
+and beat trains, and who passed and were seen never again. On the
+other hand, there were hoboes who passed and repassed with amazing
+frequency, and others, still, who passed like ghosts, close at hand,
+unseen, and never seen.
+
+It was one of the latter that I chased clear across Canada over three
+thousand miles of railroad, and never once did I lay eyes on him. His
+"monica" was Skysail Jack. I first ran into it at Montreal. Carved
+with a jack-knife was the skysail-yard of a ship. It was perfectly
+executed. Under it was "Skysail Jack." Above was "B.W. 9-15-94." This
+latter conveyed the information that he had passed through Montreal
+bound west, on October 15, 1894. He had one day the start of me.
+"Sailor Jack" was my monica at that particular time, and promptly I
+carved it alongside of his, along with the date and the information
+that I, too, was bound west.
+
+I had misfortune in getting over the next hundred miles, and eight
+days later I picked up Skysail Jack's trail three hundred miles west
+of Ottawa. There it was, carved on a water-tank, and by the date I saw
+that he likewise had met with delay. He was only two days ahead of me.
+I was a "comet" and "tramp-royal," so was Skysail Jack; and it was up
+to my pride and reputation to catch up with him. I "railroaded" day
+and night, and I passed him; then turn about he passed me. Sometimes
+he was a day or so ahead, and sometimes I was. From hoboes, bound
+east, I got word of him occasionally, when he happened to be ahead;
+and from them I learned that he had become interested in Sailor Jack
+and was making inquiries about me.
+
+We'd have made a precious pair, I am sure, if we'd ever got together;
+but get together we couldn't. I kept ahead of him clear across
+Manitoba, but he led the way across Alberta, and early one bitter gray
+morning, at the end of a division just east of Kicking Horse Pass, I
+learned that he had been seen the night before between Kicking Horse
+Pass and Rogers' Pass. It was rather curious the way the information
+came to me. I had been riding all night in a "side-door Pullman"
+(box-car), and nearly dead with cold had crawled out at the division
+to beg for food. A freezing fog was drifting past, and I "hit" some
+firemen I found in the round-house. They fixed me up with the leavings
+from their lunch-pails, and in addition I got out of them nearly a
+quart of heavenly "Java" (coffee). I heated the latter, and, as I sat
+down to eat, a freight pulled in from the west. I saw a side-door open
+and a road-kid climb out. Through the drifting fog he limped over to
+me. He was stiff with cold, his lips blue. I shared my Java and grub
+with him, learned about Skysail Jack, and then learned about him.
+Behold, he was from my own town, Oakland, California, and he was a
+member of the celebrated Boo Gang--a gang with which I had affiliated
+at rare intervals. We talked fast and bolted the grub in the half-hour
+that followed. Then my freight pulled out, and I was on it, bound west
+on the trail of Skysail Jack.
+
+I was delayed between the passes, went two days without food, and
+walked eleven miles on the third day before I got any, and yet I
+succeeded in passing Skysail Jack along the Fraser River in British
+Columbia. I was riding "passengers" then and making time; but he must
+have been riding passengers, too, and with more luck or skill than I,
+for he got into Mission ahead of me.
+
+Now Mission was a junction, forty miles east of Vancouver. From the
+junction one could proceed south through Washington and Oregon over
+the Northern Pacific. I wondered which way Skysail Jack would go, for
+I thought I was ahead of him. As for myself I was still bound west to
+Vancouver. I proceeded to the water-tank to leave that information,
+and there, freshly carved, with that day's date upon it, was Skysail
+Jack's monica. I hurried on into Vancouver. But he was gone. He had
+taken ship immediately and was still flying west on his
+world-adventure. Truly, Skysail Jack, you were a tramp-royal, and your
+mate was the "wind that tramps the world." I take off my hat to you.
+You were "blowed-in-the-glass" all right. A week later I, too, got my
+ship, and on board the steamship Umatilla, in the forecastle, was
+working my way down the coast to San Francisco. Skysail Jack and
+Sailor Jack--gee! if we'd ever got together.
+
+Water-tanks are tramp directories. Not all in idle wantonness do
+tramps carve their monicas, dates, and courses. Often and often have I
+met hoboes earnestly inquiring if I had seen anywhere such and such a
+"stiff" or his monica. And more than once I have been able to give the
+monica of recent date, the water-tank, and the direction in which he
+was then bound. And promptly the hobo to whom I gave the information
+lit out after his pal. I have met hoboes who, in trying to catch a
+pal, had pursued clear across the continent and back again, and were
+still going.
+
+"Monicas" are the nom-de-rails that hoboes assume or accept when
+thrust upon them by their fellows. Leary Joe, for instance, was timid,
+and was so named by his fellows. No self-respecting hobo would select
+Stew Bum for himself. Very few tramps care to remember their pasts
+during which they ignobly worked, so monicas based upon trades are
+very rare, though I remember having met the following: Moulder
+Blackey, Painter Red, Chi Plumber, Boiler-Maker, Sailor Boy, and
+Printer Bo. "Chi" (pronounced shy), by the way, is the argot for
+"Chicago."
+
+A favorite device of hoboes is to base their monicas on the localities
+from which they hail, as: New York Tommy, Pacific Slim, Buffalo
+Smithy, Canton Tim, Pittsburg Jack, Syracuse Shine, Troy Mickey, K.L.
+Bill, and Connecticut Jimmy. Then there was "Slim Jim from Vinegar
+Hill, who never worked and never will." A "shine" is always a negro,
+so called, possibly, from the high lights on his countenance. Texas
+Shine or Toledo Shine convey both race and nativity.
+
+Among those that incorporated their race, I recollect the following:
+Frisco Sheeny, New York Irish, Michigan French, English Jack, Cockney
+Kid, and Milwaukee Dutch. Others seem to take their monicas in part
+from the color-schemes stamped upon them at birth, such as: Chi
+Whitey, New Jersey Red, Boston Blackey, Seattle Browney, and Yellow
+Dick and Yellow Belly--the last a Creole from Mississippi, who, I
+suspect, had his monica thrust upon him.
+
+Texas Royal, Happy Joe, Bust Connors, Burley Bo, Tornado Blackey, and
+Touch McCall used more imagination in rechristening themselves.
+Others, with less fancy, carry the names of their physical
+peculiarities, such as: Vancouver Slim, Detroit Shorty, Ohio Fatty,
+Long Jack, Big Jim, Little Joe, New York Blink, Chi Nosey, and
+Broken-backed Ben.
+
+By themselves come the road-kids, sporting an infinite variety of
+monicas. For example, the following, whom here and there I have
+encountered: Buck Kid, Blind Kid, Midget Kid, Holy Kid, Bat Kid, Swift
+Kid, Cookey Kid, Monkey Kid, Iowa Kid, Corduroy Kid, Orator Kid (who
+could tell how it happened), and Lippy Kid (who was insolent, depend
+upon it).
+
+On the water-tank at San Marcial, New Mexico, a dozen years ago, was
+the following hobo bill of fare:--
+
+ (1) Main-drag fair.
+ (2) Bulls not hostile.
+ (3) Round-house good for kipping.
+ (4) North-bound trains no good.
+ (5) Privates no good.
+ (6) Restaurants good for cooks only.
+ (7) Railroad House good for night-work only.
+
+Number one conveys the information that begging for money on the main
+street is fair; number two, that the police will not bother hoboes;
+number three, that one can sleep in the round-house. Number four,
+however, is ambiguous. The north-bound trains may be no good to beat,
+and they may be no good to beg. Number five means that the residences
+are not good to beggars, and number six means that only hoboes that
+have been cooks can get grub from the restaurants. Number seven
+bothers me. I cannot make out whether the Railroad House is a good
+place for any hobo to beg at night, or whether it is good only for
+hobo-cooks to beg at night, or whether any hobo, cook or non-cook, can
+lend a hand at night, helping the cooks of the Railroad House with
+their dirty work and getting something to eat in payment.
+
+But to return to the hoboes that pass in the night. I remember one I
+met in California. He was a Swede, but he had lived so long in the
+United States that one couldn't guess his nationality. He had to tell
+it on himself. In fact, he had come to the United States when no more
+than a baby. I ran into him first at the mountain town of Truckee.
+"Which way, Bo?" was our greeting, and "Bound east" was the answer
+each of us gave. Quite a bunch of "stiffs" tried to ride out the
+overland that night, and I lost the Swede in the shuffle. Also, I lost
+the overland.
+
+I arrived in Reno, Nevada, in a box-car that was promptly
+side-tracked. It was a Sunday morning, and after I threw my feet for
+breakfast, I wandered over to the Piute camp to watch the Indians
+gambling. And there stood the Swede, hugely interested. Of course we
+got together. He was the only acquaintance I had in that region, and I
+was his only acquaintance. We rushed together like a couple of
+dissatisfied hermits, and together we spent the day, threw our feet
+for dinner, and late in the afternoon tried to "nail" the same
+freight. But he was ditched, and I rode her out alone, to be ditched
+myself in the desert twenty miles beyond.
+
+Of all desolate places, the one at which I was ditched was the limit.
+It was called a flag-station, and it consisted of a shanty dumped
+inconsequentially into the sand and sagebrush. A chill wind was
+blowing, night was coming on, and the solitary telegraph operator who
+lived in the shanty was afraid of me. I knew that neither grub nor bed
+could I get out of him. It was because of his manifest fear of me that
+I did not believe him when he told me that east-bound trains never
+stopped there. Besides, hadn't I been thrown off of an east-bound
+train right at that very spot not five minutes before? He assured me
+that it had stopped under orders, and that a year might go by before
+another was stopped under orders. He advised me that it was only a
+dozen or fifteen miles on to Wadsworth and that I'd better hike. I
+elected to wait, however, and I had the pleasure of seeing two
+west-bound freights go by without stopping, and one east-bound
+freight. I wondered if the Swede was on the latter. It was up to me to
+hit the ties to Wadsworth, and hit them I did, much to the telegraph
+operator's relief, for I neglected to burn his shanty and murder him.
+Telegraph operators have much to be thankful for. At the end of half a
+dozen miles, I had to get off the ties and let the east-bound overland
+go by. She was going fast, but I caught sight of a dim form on the
+first "blind" that looked like the Swede.
+
+That was the last I saw of him for weary days. I hit the high places
+across those hundreds of miles of Nevada desert, riding the overlands
+at night, for speed, and in the day-time riding in box-cars and
+getting my sleep. It was early in the year, and it was cold in those
+upland pastures. Snow lay here and there on the level, all the
+mountains were shrouded in white, and at night the most miserable wind
+imaginable blew off from them. It was not a land in which to linger.
+And remember, gentle reader, the hobo goes through such a land,
+without shelter, without money, begging his way and sleeping at night
+without blankets. This last is something that can be realized only by
+experience.
+
+In the early evening I came down to the depot at Ogden. The overland
+of the Union Pacific was pulling east, and I was bent on making
+connections. Out in the tangle of tracks ahead of the engine I
+encountered a figure slouching through the gloom. It was the Swede. We
+shook hands like long-lost brothers, and discovered that our hands
+were gloved. "Where'd ye glahm 'em?" I asked. "Out of an engine-cab,"
+he answered; "and where did you?" "They belonged to a fireman," said
+I; "he was careless."
+
+We caught the blind as the overland pulled out, and mighty cold we
+found it. The way led up a narrow gorge between snow-covered
+mountains, and we shivered and shook and exchanged confidences about
+how we had covered the ground between Reno and Ogden. I had closed my
+eyes for only an hour or so the previous night, and the blind was not
+comfortable enough to suit me for a snooze. At a stop, I went forward
+to the engine. We had on a "double-header" (two engines) to take us
+over the grade.
+
+The pilot of the head engine, because it "punched the wind," I knew
+would be too cold; so I selected the pilot of the second engine, which
+was sheltered by the first engine. I stepped on the cowcatcher and
+found the pilot occupied. In the darkness I felt out the form of a
+young boy. He was sound asleep. By squeezing, there was room for two
+on the pilot, and I made the boy budge over and crawled up beside him.
+It was a "good" night; the "shacks" (brakemen) didn't bother us, and
+in no time we were asleep. Once in a while hot cinders or heavy jolts
+aroused me, when I snuggled closer to the boy and dozed off to the
+coughing of the engines and the screeching of the wheels.
+
+The overland made Evanston, Wyoming, and went no farther. A wreck
+ahead blocked the line. The dead engineer had been brought in, and his
+body attested the peril of the way. A tramp, also, had been killed,
+but his body had not been brought in. I talked with the boy. He was
+thirteen years old. He had run away from his folks in some place in
+Oregon, and was heading east to his grandmother. He had a tale of
+cruel treatment in the home he had left that rang true; besides, there
+was no need for him to lie to me, a nameless hobo on the track.
+
+And that boy was going some, too. He couldn't cover the ground fast
+enough. When the division superintendents decided to send the overland
+back over the way it had come, then up on a cross "jerk" to the Oregon
+Short Line, and back along that road to tap the Union Pacific the
+other side of the wreck, that boy climbed upon the pilot and said he
+was going to stay with it. This was too much for the Swede and me. It
+meant travelling the rest of that frigid night in order to gain no
+more than a dozen miles or so. We said we'd wait till the wreck was
+cleared away, and in the meantime get a good sleep.
+
+Now it is no snap to strike a strange town, broke, at midnight, in
+cold weather, and find a place to sleep. The Swede hadn't a penny. My
+total assets consisted of two dimes and a nickel. From some of the
+town boys we learned that beer was five cents, and that the saloons
+kept open all night. There was our meat. Two glasses of beer would
+cost ten cents, there would be a stove and chairs, and we could sleep
+it out till morning. We headed for the lights of a saloon, walking
+briskly, the snow crunching under our feet, a chill little wind
+blowing through us.
+
+Alas, I had misunderstood the town boys. Beer was five cents in one
+saloon only in the whole burg, and we didn't strike that saloon. But
+the one we entered was all right. A blessed stove was roaring
+white-hot; there were cosey, cane-bottomed arm-chairs, and a
+none-too-pleasant-looking barkeeper who glared suspiciously at us as
+we came in. A man cannot spend continuous days and nights in his
+clothes, beating trains, fighting soot and cinders, and sleeping
+anywhere, and maintain a good "front." Our fronts were decidedly
+against us; but what did we care? I had the price in my jeans.
+
+"Two beers," said I nonchalantly to the barkeeper, and while he drew
+them, the Swede and I leaned against the bar and yearned secretly for
+the arm-chairs by the stove.
+
+The barkeeper set the two foaming glasses before us, and with pride I
+deposited the ten cents. Now I was dead game. As soon as I learned my
+error in the price I'd have dug up another ten cents. Never mind if it
+did leave me only a nickel to my name, a stranger in a strange land.
+I'd have paid it all right. But that barkeeper never gave me a chance.
+As soon as his eyes spotted the dime I had laid down, he seized the
+two glasses, one in each hand, and dumped the beer into the sink
+behind the bar. At the same time, glaring at us malevolently, he
+said:--
+
+"You've got scabs on your nose. You've got scabs on your nose. You've
+got scabs on your nose. See!"
+
+I hadn't either, and neither had the Swede. Our noses were all right.
+The direct bearing of his words was beyond our comprehension, but the
+indirect bearing was clear as print: he didn't like our looks, and
+beer was evidently ten cents a glass.
+
+I dug down and laid another dime on the bar, remarking carelessly,
+"Oh, I thought this was a five-cent joint."
+
+"Your money's no good here," he answered, shoving the two dimes across
+the bar to me.
+
+Sadly I dropped them back into my pocket, sadly we yearned toward the
+blessed stove and the arm-chairs, and sadly we went out the door into
+the frosty night.
+
+But as we went out the door, the barkeeper, still glaring, called
+after us, "You've got scabs on your nose, see!"
+
+I have seen much of the world since then, journeyed among strange
+lands and peoples, opened many books, sat in many lecture-halls; but
+to this day, though I have pondered long and deep, I have been unable
+to divine the meaning in the cryptic utterance of that barkeeper in
+Evanston, Wyoming. Our noses _were_ all right.
+
+We slept that night over the boilers in an electric-lighting plant.
+How we discovered that "kipping" place I can't remember. We must have
+just headed for it, instinctively, as horses head for water or
+carrier-pigeons head for the home-cote. But it was a night not
+pleasant to remember. A dozen hoboes were ahead of us on top the
+boilers, and it was too hot for all of us. To complete our misery, the
+engineer would not let us stand around down below. He gave us our
+choice of the boilers or the outside snow.
+
+"You said you wanted to sleep, and so, damn you, sleep," said he to
+me, when, frantic and beaten out by the heat, I came down into the
+fire-room.
+
+"Water," I gasped, wiping the sweat from my eyes, "water."
+
+He pointed out of doors and assured me that down there somewhere in
+the blackness I'd find the river. I started for the river, got lost in
+the dark, fell into two or three drifts, gave it up, and returned
+half-frozen to the top of the boilers. When I had thawed out, I was
+thirstier than ever. Around me the hoboes were moaning, groaning,
+sobbing, sighing, gasping, panting, rolling and tossing and
+floundering heavily in their torment. We were so many lost souls
+toasting on a griddle in hell, and the engineer, Satan Incarnate, gave
+us the sole alternative of freezing in the outer cold. The Swede sat
+up and anathematized passionately the wanderlust in man that sent him
+tramping and suffering hardships such as that.
+
+"When I get back to Chicago," he perorated, "I'm going to get a job
+and stick to it till hell freezes over. Then I'll go tramping again."
+
+And, such is the irony of fate, next day, when the wreck ahead was
+cleared, the Swede and I pulled out of Evanston in the ice-boxes of an
+"orange special," a fast freight laden with fruit from sunny
+California. Of course, the ice-boxes were empty on account of the cold
+weather, but that didn't make them any warmer for us. We entered them
+through hatchways in the top of the car; the boxes were constructed of
+galvanized iron, and in that biting weather were not pleasant to the
+touch. We lay there, shivered and shook, and with chattering teeth
+held a council wherein we decided that we'd stay by the ice-boxes day
+and night till we got out of the inhospitable plateau region and down
+into the Mississippi Valley.
+
+But we must eat, and we decided that at the next division we would
+throw our feet for grub and make a rush back to our ice-boxes. We
+arrived in the town of Green River late in the afternoon, but too
+early for supper. Before meal-time is the worst time for "battering"
+back-doors; but we put on our nerve, swung off the side-ladders as the
+freight pulled into the yards, and made a run for the houses. We were
+quickly separated; but we had agreed to meet in the ice-boxes. I had
+bad luck at first; but in the end, with a couple of "hand-outs" poked
+into my shirt, I chased for the train. It was pulling out and going
+fast. The particular refrigerator-car in which we were to meet had
+already gone by, and half a dozen cars down the train from it I swung
+on to the side-ladders, went up on top hurriedly, and dropped down
+into an ice-box.
+
+But a shack had seen me from the caboose, and at the next stop a few
+miles farther on, Rock Springs, the shack stuck his head into my box
+and said: "Hit the grit, you son of a toad! Hit the grit!" Also he
+grabbed me by the heels and dragged me out. I hit the grit all right,
+and the orange special and the Swede rolled on without me.
+
+Snow was beginning to fall. A cold night was coming on. After dark I
+hunted around in the railroad yards until I found an empty
+refrigerator car. In I climbed--not into the ice-boxes, but into the
+car itself. I swung the heavy doors shut, and their edges, covered
+with strips of rubber, sealed the car air-tight. The walls were thick.
+There was no way for the outside cold to get in. But the inside was
+just as cold as the outside. How to raise the temperature was the
+problem. But trust a "profesh" for that. Out of my pockets I dug up
+three or four newspapers. These I burned, one at a time, on the floor
+of the car. The smoke rose to the top. Not a bit of the heat could
+escape, and, comfortable and warm, I passed a beautiful night. I
+didn't wake up once.
+
+In the morning it was still snowing. While throwing my feet for
+breakfast, I missed an east-bound freight. Later in the day I nailed
+two other freights and was ditched from both of them. All afternoon no
+east-bound trains went by. The snow was falling thicker than ever, but
+at twilight I rode out on the first blind of the overland. As I swung
+aboard the blind from one side, somebody swung aboard from the other.
+It was the boy who had run away from Oregon.
+
+Now the first blind of a fast train in a driving snow-storm is no
+summer picnic. The wind goes right through one, strikes the front of
+the car, and comes back again. At the first stop, darkness having come
+on, I went forward and interviewed the fireman. I offered to "shove"
+coal to the end of his run, which was Rawlins, and my offer was
+accepted. My work was out on the tender, in the snow, breaking the
+lumps of coal with a sledge and shovelling it forward to him in the
+cab. But as I did not have to work all the time, I could come into the
+cab and warm up now and again.
+
+"Say," I said to the fireman, at my first breathing spell, "there's a
+little kid back there on the first blind. He's pretty cold."
+
+The cabs on the Union Pacific engines are quite spacious, and we
+fitted the kid into a warm nook in front of the high seat of the
+fireman, where the kid promptly fell asleep. We arrived at Rawlins at
+midnight. The snow was thicker than ever. Here the engine was to go
+into the round-house, being replaced by a fresh engine. As the train
+came to a stop, I dropped off the engine steps plump into the arms of
+a large man in a large overcoat. He began asking me questions, and I
+promptly demanded who he was. Just as promptly he informed me that he
+was the sheriff. I drew in my horns and listened and answered.
+
+He began describing the kid who was still asleep in the cab. I did
+some quick thinking. Evidently the family was on the trail of the kid,
+and the sheriff had received telegraphed instructions from Oregon.
+Yes, I had seen the kid. I had met him first in Ogden. The date
+tallied with the sheriff's information. But the kid was still behind
+somewhere, I explained, for he had been ditched from that very
+overland that night when it pulled out of Rock Springs. And all the
+time I was praying that the kid wouldn't wake up, come down out of the
+cab, and put the "kibosh" on me.
+
+The sheriff left me in order to interview the shacks, but before he
+left he said:--
+
+"Bo, this town is no place for you. Understand? You ride this train
+out, and make no mistake about it. If I catch you after it's gone ..."
+
+I assured him that it was not through desire that I was in his town;
+that the only reason I was there was that the train had stopped there;
+and that he wouldn't see me for smoke the way I'd get out of his darn
+town.
+
+While he went to interview the shacks, I jumped back into the cab. The
+kid was awake and rubbing his eyes. I told him the news and advised
+him to ride the engine into the round-house. To cut the story short,
+the kid made the same overland out, riding the pilot, with
+instructions to make an appeal to the fireman at the first stop for
+permission to ride in the engine. As for myself, I got ditched. The
+new fireman was young and not yet lax enough to break the rules of the
+Company against having tramps in the engine; so he turned down my
+offer to shove coal. I hope the kid succeeded with him, for all night
+on the pilot in that blizzard would have meant death.
+
+Strange to say, I do not at this late day remember a detail of how I
+was ditched at Rawlins. I remember watching the train as it was
+immediately swallowed up in the snow-storm, and of heading for a
+saloon to warm up. Here was light and warmth. Everything was in full
+blast and wide open. Faro, roulette, craps, and poker tables were
+running, and some mad cow-punchers were making the night merry. I had
+just succeeded in fraternizing with them and was downing my first
+drink at their expense, when a heavy hand descended on my shoulder. I
+looked around and sighed. It was the sheriff.
+
+Without a word he led me out into the snow.
+
+"There's an orange special down there in the yards," said he.
+
+"It's a damn cold night," said I.
+
+"It pulls out in ten minutes," said he.
+
+That was all. There was no discussion. And when that orange special
+pulled out, I was in the ice-boxes. I thought my feet would freeze
+before morning, and the last twenty miles into Laramie I stood upright
+in the hatchway and danced up and down. The snow was too thick for the
+shacks to see me, and I didn't care if they did.
+
+My quarter of a dollar bought me a hot breakfast at Laramie, and
+immediately afterward I was on board the blind baggage of an overland
+that was climbing to the pass through the backbone of the Rockies. One
+does not ride blind baggages in the daytime; but in this blizzard at
+the top of the Rocky Mountains I doubted if the shacks would have the
+heart to put me off. And they didn't. They made a practice of coming
+forward at every stop to see if I was frozen yet.
+
+At Ames' Monument, at the summit of the Rockies,--I forget the
+altitude,--the shack came forward for the last time.
+
+"Say, Bo," he said, "you see that freight side-tracked over there to
+let us go by?"
+
+I saw. It was on the next track, six feet away. A few feet more in
+that storm and I could not have seen it.
+
+"Well, the 'after-push' of Kelly's Army is in one of them cars.
+They've got two feet of straw under them, and there's so many of them
+that they keep the car warm."
+
+His advice was good, and I followed it, prepared, however, if it was a
+"con game" the shack had given me, to take the blind as the overland
+pulled out. But it was straight goods. I found the car--a big
+refrigerator car with the leeward door wide open for ventilation. Up I
+climbed and in. I stepped on a man's leg, next on some other man's
+arm. The light was dim, and all I could make out was arms and legs and
+bodies inextricably confused. Never was there such a tangle of
+humanity. They were all lying in the straw, and over, and under, and
+around one another. Eighty-four husky hoboes take up a lot of room
+when they are stretched out. The men I stepped on were resentful.
+Their bodies heaved under me like the waves of the sea, and imparted
+an involuntary forward movement to me. I could not find any straw to
+step upon, so I stepped upon more men. The resentment increased, so
+did my forward movement. I lost my footing and sat down with sharp
+abruptness. Unfortunately, it was on a man's head. The next moment he
+had risen on his hands and knees in wrath, and I was flying through
+the air. What goes up must come down, and I came down on another man's
+head.
+
+What happened after that is very vague in my memory. It was like going
+through a threshing-machine. I was bandied about from one end of the
+car to the other. Those eighty-four hoboes winnowed me out till what
+little was left of me, by some miracle, found a bit of straw to rest
+upon. I was initiated, and into a jolly crowd. All the rest of that
+day we rode through the blizzard, and to while the time away it was
+decided that each man was to tell a story. It was stipulated that
+each story must be a good one, and, furthermore, that it must be a
+story no one had ever heard before. The penalty for failure was the
+threshing-machine. Nobody failed. And I want to say right here that
+never in my life have I sat at so marvellous a story-telling debauch.
+Here were eighty-four men from all the world--I made eighty-five; and
+each man told a masterpiece. It had to be, for it was either
+masterpiece or threshing-machine.
+
+Late in the afternoon we arrived in Cheyenne. The blizzard was at its
+height, and though the last meal of all of us had been breakfast, no
+man cared to throw his feet for supper. All night we rolled on through
+the storm, and next day found us down on the sweet plains of Nebraska
+and still rolling. We were out of the storm and the mountains. The
+blessed sun was shining over a smiling land, and we had eaten nothing
+for twenty-four hours. We found out that the freight would arrive
+about noon at a town, if I remember right, that was called Grand
+Island.
+
+We took up a collection and sent a telegram to the authorities of that
+town. The text of the message was that eighty-five healthy, hungry
+hoboes would arrive about noon and that it would be a good idea to
+have dinner ready for them. The authorities of Grand Island had two
+courses open to them. They could feed us, or they could throw us in
+jail. In the latter event they'd have to feed us anyway, and they
+decided wisely that one meal would be the cheaper way.
+
+When the freight rolled into Grand Island at noon, we were sitting on
+the tops of the cars and dangling our legs in the sunshine. All the
+police in the burg were on the reception committee. They marched us in
+squads to the various hotels and restaurants, where dinners were
+spread for us. We had been thirty-six hours without food, and we
+didn't have to be taught what to do. After that we were marched back
+to the railroad station. The police had thoughtfully compelled the
+freight to wait for us. She pulled out slowly, and the eighty-five of
+us, strung out along the track, swarmed up the side-ladders. We
+"captured" the train.
+
+We had no supper that evening--at least the "push" didn't, but I did.
+Just at supper time, as the freight was pulling out of a small town,
+a man climbed into the car where I was playing pedro with three other
+stiffs. The man's shirt was bulging suspiciously. In his hand he
+carried a battered quart-measure from which arose steam. I smelled
+"Java." I turned my cards over to one of the stiffs who was looking
+on, and excused myself. Then, in the other end of the car, pursued by
+envious glances, I sat down with the man who had climbed aboard and
+shared his "Java" and the hand-outs that had bulged his shirt. It was
+the Swede.
+
+At about ten o'clock in the evening, we arrived at Omaha.
+
+"Let's shake the push," said the Swede to me.
+
+"Sure," said I.
+
+As the freight pulled into Omaha, we made ready to do so. But the
+people of Omaha were also ready. The Swede and I hung upon the
+side-ladders, ready to drop off. But the freight did not stop.
+Furthermore, long rows of policemen, their brass buttons and stars
+glittering in the electric lights, were lined up on each side of the
+track. The Swede and I knew what would happen to us if we ever dropped
+off into their arms. We stuck by the side-ladders, and the train
+rolled on across the Missouri River to Council Bluffs.
+
+"General" Kelly, with an army of two thousand hoboes, lay in camp at
+Chautauqua Park, several miles away. The after-push we were with was
+General Kelly's rear-guard, and, detraining at Council Bluffs, it
+started to march to camp. The night had turned cold, and heavy
+wind-squalls, accompanied by rain, were chilling and wetting us. Many
+police were guarding us and herding us to the camp. The Swede and I
+watched our chance and made a successful get-away.
+
+The rain began coming down in torrents, and in the darkness, unable to
+see our hands in front of our faces, like a pair of blind men we
+fumbled about for shelter. Our instinct served us, for in no time we
+stumbled upon a saloon--not a saloon that was open and doing business,
+not merely a saloon that was closed for the night, and not even a
+saloon with a permanent address, but a saloon propped up on big
+timbers, with rollers underneath, that was being moved from somewhere
+to somewhere. The doors were locked. A squall of wind and rain drove
+down upon us. We did not hesitate. Smash went the door, and in we
+went.
+
+I have made some tough camps in my time, "carried the banner" in
+infernal metropolises, bedded in pools of water, slept in the snow
+under two blankets when the spirit thermometer registered seventy-four
+degrees below zero (which is a mere trifle of one hundred and six
+degrees of frost); but I want to say right here that never did I make
+a tougher camp, pass a more miserable night, than that night I passed
+with the Swede in the itinerant saloon at Council Bluffs. In the first
+place, the building, perched up as it was in the air, had exposed a
+multitude of openings in the floor through which the wind whistled. In
+the second place, the bar was empty; there was no bottled fire-water
+with which we could warm ourselves and forget our misery. We had no
+blankets, and in our wet clothes, wet to the skin, we tried to sleep.
+I rolled under the bar, and the Swede rolled under the table. The
+holes and crevices in the floor made it impossible, and at the end of
+half an hour I crawled up on top the bar. A little later the Swede
+crawled up on top his table.
+
+And there we shivered and prayed for daylight. I know, for one, that I
+shivered until I could shiver no more, till the shivering muscles
+exhausted themselves and merely ached horribly. The Swede moaned and
+groaned, and every little while, through chattering teeth, he
+muttered, "Never again; never again." He muttered this phrase
+repeatedly, ceaselessly, a thousand times; and when he dozed, he went
+on muttering it in his sleep.
+
+At the first gray of dawn we left our house of pain, and outside,
+found ourselves in a mist, dense and chill. We stumbled on till we
+came to the railroad track. I was going back to Omaha to throw my feet
+for breakfast; my companion was going on to Chicago. The moment for
+parting had come. Our palsied hands went out to each other. We were
+both shivering. When we tried to speak, our teeth chattered us back
+into silence. We stood alone, shut off from the world; all that we
+could see was a short length of railroad track, both ends of which
+were lost in the driving mist. We stared dumbly at each other, our
+clasped hands shaking sympathetically. The Swede's face was blue with
+the cold, and I know mine must have been.
+
+"Never again what?" I managed to articulate.
+
+Speech strove for utterance in the Swede's throat; then faint and
+distant, in a thin whisper from the very bottom of his frozen soul,
+came the words:--
+
+"Never again a hobo."
+
+He paused, and, as he went on again, his voice gathered strength and
+huskiness as it affirmed his will.
+
+"Never again a hobo. I'm going to get a job. You'd better do the same.
+Nights like this make rheumatism."
+
+He wrung my hand.
+
+"Good-by, Bo," said he.
+
+"Good-by, Bo," said I.
+
+The next we were swallowed up from each other by the mist. It was our
+final passing. But here's to you, Mr. Swede, wherever you are. I hope
+you got that job.
+
+
+
+
+ROAD-KIDS AND GAY-CATS
+
+
+Every once in a while, in newspapers, magazines, and biographical
+dictionaries, I run upon sketches of my life, wherein, delicately
+phrased, I learn that it was in order to study sociology that I became
+a tramp. This is very nice and thoughtful of the biographers, but it
+is inaccurate. I became a tramp--well, because of the life that was in
+me, of the wanderlust in my blood that would not let me rest.
+Sociology was merely incidental; it came afterward, in the same manner
+that a wet skin follows a ducking. I went on "The Road" because I
+couldn't keep away from it; because I hadn't the price of the railroad
+fare in my jeans; because I was so made that I couldn't work all my
+life on "one same shift"; because--well, just because it was easier to
+than not to.
+
+It happened in my own town, in Oakland, when I was sixteen. At that
+time I had attained a dizzy reputation in my chosen circle of
+adventurers, by whom I was known as the Prince of the Oyster Pirates.
+It is true, those immediately outside my circle, such as honest
+bay-sailors, longshoremen, yachtsmen, and the legal owners of the
+oysters, called me "tough," "hoodlum," "smoudge," "thief," "robber,"
+and various other not nice things--all of which was complimentary and
+but served to increase the dizziness of the high place in which I sat.
+At that time I had not read "Paradise Lost," and later, when I read
+Milton's "Better to reign in hell than serve in heaven," I was fully
+convinced that great minds run in the same channels.
+
+It was at this time that the fortuitous concatenation of events sent
+me upon my first adventure on The Road. It happened that there was
+nothing doing in oysters just then; that at Benicia, forty miles away,
+I had some blankets I wanted to get; and that at Port Costa, several
+miles from Benicia, a stolen boat lay at anchor in charge of the
+constable. Now this boat was owned by a friend of mine, by name Dinny
+McCrea. It had been stolen and left at Port Costa by Whiskey Bob,
+another friend of mine. (Poor Whiskey Bob! Only last winter his body
+was picked up on the beach shot full of holes by nobody knows whom.)
+I had come down from "up river" some time before, and reported to
+Dinny McCrea the whereabouts of his boat; and Dinny McCrea had
+promptly offered ten dollars to me if I should bring it down to
+Oakland to him.
+
+Time was heavy on my hands. I sat on the dock and talked it over with
+Nickey the Greek, another idle oyster pirate. "Let's go," said I, and
+Nickey was willing. He was "broke." I possessed fifty cents and a
+small skiff. The former I invested and loaded into the latter in the
+form of crackers, canned corned beef, and a ten-cent bottle of French
+mustard. (We were keen on French mustard in those days.) Then, late in
+the afternoon, we hoisted our small spritsail and started. We sailed
+all night, and next morning, on the first of a glorious flood-tide, a
+fair wind behind us, we came booming up the Carquinez Straits to Port
+Costa. There lay the stolen boat, not twenty-five feet from the wharf.
+We ran alongside and doused our little spritsail. I sent Nickey
+forward to lift the anchor, while I began casting off the gaskets.
+
+A man ran out on the wharf and hailed us. It was the constable. It
+suddenly came to me that I had neglected to get a written
+authorization from Dinny McCrea to take possession of his boat. Also,
+I knew that constable wanted to charge at least twenty-five dollars in
+fees for capturing the boat from Whiskey Bob and subsequently taking
+care of it. And my last fifty cents had been blown in for corned beef
+and French mustard, and the reward was only ten dollars anyway. I shot
+a glance forward to Nickey. He had the anchor up-and-down and was
+straining at it. "Break her out," I whispered to him, and turned and
+shouted back to the constable. The result was that he and I were
+talking at the same time, our spoken thoughts colliding in mid-air and
+making gibberish.
+
+The constable grew more imperative, and perforce I had to listen.
+Nickey was heaving on the anchor till I thought he'd burst a
+blood-vessel. When the constable got done with his threats and
+warnings, I asked him who he was. The time he lost in telling me
+enabled Nickey to break out the anchor. I was doing some quick
+calculating. At the feet of the constable a ladder ran down the dock
+to the water, and to the ladder was moored a skiff. The oars were in
+it. But it was padlocked. I gambled everything on that padlock. I
+felt the breeze on my cheek, saw the surge of the tide, looked at the
+remaining gaskets that confined the sail, ran my eyes up the halyards
+to the blocks and knew that all was clear, and then threw off all
+dissimulation.
+
+"In with her!" I shouted to Nickey, and sprang to the gaskets, casting
+them loose and thanking my stars that Whiskey Bob had tied them in
+square-knots instead of "grannies."
+
+The constable had slid down the ladder and was fumbling with a key at
+the padlock. The anchor came aboard and the last gasket was loosed at
+the same instant that the constable freed the skiff and jumped to the
+oars.
+
+"Peak-halyards!" I commanded my crew, at the same time swinging on to
+the throat-halyards. Up came the sail on the run. I belayed and ran
+aft to the tiller.
+
+"Stretch her!" I shouted to Nickey at the peak. The constable was just
+reaching for our stern. A puff of wind caught us, and we shot away. It
+was great. If I'd had a black flag, I know I'd have run it up in
+triumph. The constable stood up in the skiff, and paled the glory of
+the day with the vividness of his language. Also, he wailed for a gun.
+You see, that was another gamble we had taken.
+
+Anyway, we weren't stealing the boat. It wasn't the constable's. We
+were merely stealing his fees, which was his particular form of graft.
+And we weren't stealing the fees for ourselves, either; we were
+stealing them for my friend, Dinny McCrea.
+
+Benicia was made in a few minutes, and a few minutes later my blankets
+were aboard. I shifted the boat down to the far end of Steamboat
+Wharf, from which point of vantage we could see anybody coming after
+us. There was no telling. Maybe the Port Costa constable would
+telephone to the Benicia constable. Nickey and I held a council of
+war. We lay on deck in the warm sun, the fresh breeze on our cheeks,
+the flood-tide rippling and swirling past. It was impossible to start
+back to Oakland till afternoon, when the ebb would begin to run. But
+we figured that the constable would have an eye out on the Carquinez
+Straits when the ebb started, and that nothing remained for us but to
+wait for the following ebb, at two o'clock next morning, when we
+could slip by Cerberus in the darkness.
+
+So we lay on deck, smoked cigarettes, and were glad that we were
+alive. I spat over the side and gauged the speed of the current.
+
+"With this wind, we could run this flood clear to Rio Vista," I said.
+
+"And it's fruit-time on the river," said Nickey.
+
+"And low water on the river," said I. "It's the best time of the year
+to make Sacramento."
+
+We sat up and looked at each other. The glorious west wind was pouring
+over us like wine. We both spat over the side and gauged the current.
+Now I contend that it was all the fault of that flood-tide and fair
+wind. They appealed to our sailor instinct. If it had not been for
+them, the whole chain of events that was to put me upon The Road would
+have broken down.
+
+We said no word, but cast off our moorings and hoisted sail. Our
+adventures up the Sacramento River are no part of this narrative. We
+subsequently made the city of Sacramento and tied up at a wharf. The
+water was fine, and we spent most of our time in swimming. On the
+sand-bar above the railroad bridge we fell in with a bunch of boys
+likewise in swimming. Between swims we lay on the bank and talked.
+They talked differently from the fellows I had been used to herding
+with. It was a new vernacular. They were road-kids, and with every
+word they uttered the lure of The Road laid hold of me more
+imperiously.
+
+"When I was down in Alabama," one kid would begin; or, another,
+"Coming up on the C. & A. from K.C."; whereat, a third kid, "On the C.
+& A. there ain't no steps to the 'blinds.'" And I would lie silently
+in the sand and listen. "It was at a little town in Ohio on the Lake
+Shore and Michigan Southern," a kid would start; and another, "Ever
+ride the Cannonball on the Wabash?"; and yet another, "Nope, but I've
+been on the White Mail out of Chicago." "Talk about railroadin'--wait
+till you hit the Pennsylvania, four tracks, no water tanks, take water
+on the fly, that's goin' some." "The Northern Pacific's a bad road
+now." "Salinas is on the 'hog,' the 'bulls' is 'horstile.'" "I got
+'pinched' at El Paso, along with Moke Kid." "Talkin' of 'poke-outs,'
+wait till you hit the French country out of Montreal--not a word of
+English--you say, 'Mongee, Madame, mongee, no spika da French,' an'
+rub your stomach an' look hungry, an' she gives you a slice of
+sow-belly an' a chunk of dry 'punk.'"
+
+And I continued to lie in the sand and listen. These wanderers made my
+oyster-piracy look like thirty cents. A new world was calling to me in
+every word that was spoken--a world of rods and gunnels, blind
+baggages and "side-door Pullmans," "bulls" and "shacks," "floppings"
+and "chewin's," "pinches" and "get-aways," "strong arms" and
+"bindle-stiffs," "punks" and "profesh." And it all spelled Adventure.
+Very well; I would tackle this new world. I "lined" myself up
+alongside those road-kids. I was just as strong as any of them, just
+as quick, just as nervy, and my brain was just as good.
+
+After the swim, as evening came on, they dressed and went up town. I
+went along. The kids began "battering" the "main-stem" for "light
+pieces," or, in other words, begging for money on the main street. I
+had never begged in my life, and this was the hardest thing for me to
+stomach when I first went on The Road. I had absurd notions about
+begging. My philosophy, up to that time, was that it was finer to
+steal than to beg; and that robbery was finer still because the risk
+and the penalty were proportionately greater. As an oyster pirate I
+had already earned convictions at the hands of justice, which, if I
+had tried to serve them, would have required a thousand years in
+state's prison. To rob was manly; to beg was sordid and despicable.
+But I developed in the days to come all right, all right, till I came
+to look upon begging as a joyous prank, a game of wits, a
+nerve-exerciser.
+
+That first night, however, I couldn't rise to it; and the result was
+that when the kids were ready to go to a restaurant and eat, I wasn't.
+I was broke. Meeny Kid, I think it was, gave me the price, and we all
+ate together. But while I ate, I meditated. The receiver, it was said,
+was as bad as the thief; Meeny Kid had done the begging, and I was
+profiting by it. I decided that the receiver was a whole lot worse
+than the thief, and that it shouldn't happen again. And it didn't. I
+turned out next day and threw my feet as well as the next one.
+
+Nickey the Greek's ambition didn't run to The Road. He was not a
+success at throwing his feet, and he stowed away one night on a barge
+and went down river to San Francisco. I met him, only a week ago, at a
+pugilistic carnival. He has progressed. He sat in a place of honor at
+the ring-side. He is now a manager of prize-fighters and proud of it.
+In fact, in a small way, in local sportdom, he is quite a shining
+light.
+
+"No kid is a road-kid until he has gone over 'the hill'"--such was the
+law of The Road I heard expounded in Sacramento. All right, I'd go
+over the hill and matriculate. "The hill," by the way, was the Sierra
+Nevadas. The whole gang was going over the hill on a jaunt, and of
+course I'd go along. It was French Kid's first adventure on The Road.
+He had just run away from his people in San Francisco. It was up to
+him and me to deliver the goods. In passing, I may remark that my old
+title of "Prince" had vanished. I had received my "monica." I was now
+"Sailor Kid," later to be known as "'Frisco Kid," when I had put the
+Rockies between me and my native state.
+
+At 10.20 P.M. the Central Pacific overland pulled out of the depot at
+Sacramento for the East--that particular item of time-table is
+indelibly engraved on my memory. There were about a dozen in our gang,
+and we strung out in the darkness ahead of the train ready to take her
+out. All the local road-kids that we knew came down to see us
+off--also, to "ditch" us if they could. That was their idea of a joke,
+and there were only about forty of them to carry it out. Their
+ring-leader was a crackerjack road-kid named Bob. Sacramento was his
+home town, but he'd hit The Road pretty well everywhere over the whole
+country. He took French Kid and me aside and gave us advice something
+like this: "We're goin' to try an' ditch your bunch, see? Youse two
+are weak. The rest of the push can take care of itself. So, as soon as
+youse two nail a blind, deck her. An' stay on the decks till youse
+pass Roseville Junction, at which burg the constables are horstile,
+sloughin' in everybody on sight."
+
+The engine whistled and the overland pulled out. There were three
+blinds on her--room for all of us. The dozen of us who were trying to
+make her out would have preferred to slip aboard quietly; but our
+forty friends crowded on with the most amazing and shameless
+publicity and advertisement. Following Bob's advice, I immediately
+"decked her," that is, climbed up on top of the roof of one of the
+mail-cars. There I lay down, my heart jumping a few extra beats, and
+listened to the fun. The whole train crew was forward, and the
+ditching went on fast and furious. After the train had run half a
+mile, it stopped, and the crew came forward again and ditched the
+survivors. I, alone, had made the train out.
+
+Back at the depot, about him two or three of the push that had
+witnessed the accident, lay French Kid with both legs off. French Kid
+had slipped or stumbled--that was all, and the wheels had done the
+rest. Such was my initiation to The Road. It was two years afterward
+when I next saw French Kid and examined his "stumps." This was an act
+of courtesy. "Cripples" always like to have their stumps examined. One
+of the entertaining sights on The Road is to witness the meeting of
+two cripples. Their common disability is a fruitful source of
+conversation; and they tell how it happened, describe what they know
+of the amputation, pass critical judgment on their own and each
+other's surgeons, and wind up by withdrawing to one side, taking off
+bandages and wrappings, and comparing stumps.
+
+But it was not until several days later, over in Nevada, when the push
+caught up with me, that I learned of French Kid's accident. The push
+itself arrived in bad condition. It had gone through a train-wreck in
+the snow-sheds; Happy Joe was on crutches with two mashed legs, and
+the rest were nursing skins and bruises.
+
+In the meantime, I lay on the roof of the mail-car, trying to remember
+whether Roseville Junction, against which burg Bob had warned me, was
+the first stop or the second stop. To make sure, I delayed descending
+to the platform of the blind until after the second stop. And then I
+didn't descend. I was new to the game, and I felt safer where I was.
+But I never told the push that I held down the decks the whole night,
+clear across the Sierras, through snow-sheds and tunnels, and down to
+Truckee on the other side, where I arrived at seven in the morning.
+Such a thing was disgraceful, and I'd have been a common
+laughing-stock. This is the first time I have confessed the truth
+about that first ride over the hill. As for the push, it decided that
+I was all right, and when I came back over the hill to Sacramento, I
+was a full-fledged road-kid.
+
+Yet I had much to learn. Bob was my mentor, and he was all right. I
+remember one evening (it was fair-time in Sacramento, and we were
+knocking about and having a good time) when I lost my hat in a fight.
+There was I bare-headed in the street, and it was Bob to the rescue.
+He took me to one side from the push and told me what to do. I was a
+bit timid of his advice. I had just come out of jail, where I had been
+three days, and I knew that if the police "pinched" me again, I'd get
+good and "soaked." On the other hand, I couldn't show the white
+feather. I'd been over the hill, I was running full-fledged with the
+push, and it was up to me to deliver the goods. So I accepted Bob's
+advice, and he came along with me to see that I did it up brown.
+
+We took our position on K Street, on the corner, I think, of Fifth. It
+was early in the evening and the street was crowded. Bob studied the
+head-gear of every Chinaman that passed. I used to wonder how the
+road-kids all managed to wear "five-dollar Stetson stiff-rims," and
+now I knew. They got them, the way I was going to get mine, from the
+Chinese. I was nervous--there were so many people about; but Bob was
+cool as an iceberg. Several times, when I started forward toward a
+Chinaman, all nerved and keyed up, Bob dragged me back. He wanted me
+to get a good hat, and one that fitted. Now a hat came by that was the
+right size but not new; and, after a dozen impossible hats, along
+would come one that was new but not the right size. And when one did
+come by that was new and the right size, the rim was too large or not
+large enough. My, Bob was finicky. I was so wrought up that I'd have
+snatched any kind of a head-covering.
+
+At last came the hat, the one hat in Sacramento for me. I knew it was
+a winner as soon as I looked at it. I glanced at Bob. He sent a
+sweeping look-about for police, then nodded his head. I lifted the hat
+from the Chinaman's head and pulled it down on my own. It was a
+perfect fit. Then I started. I heard Bob crying out, and I caught a
+glimpse of him blocking the irate Mongolian and tripping him up. I ran
+on. I turned up the next corner, and around the next. This street was
+not so crowded as K, and I walked along in quietude, catching my
+breath and congratulating myself upon my hat and my get-away.
+
+And then, suddenly, around the corner at my back, came the bare-headed
+Chinaman. With him were a couple more Chinamen, and at their heels
+were half a dozen men and boys. I sprinted to the next corner, crossed
+the street, and rounded the following corner. I decided that I had
+surely played him out, and I dropped into a walk again. But around the
+corner at my heels came that persistent Mongolian. It was the old
+story of the hare and the tortoise. He could not run so fast as I, but
+he stayed with it, plodding along at a shambling and deceptive trot,
+and wasting much good breath in noisy imprecations. He called all
+Sacramento to witness the dishonor that had been done him, and a
+goodly portion of Sacramento heard and flocked at his heels. And I ran
+on like the hare, and ever that persistent Mongolian, with the
+increasing rabble, overhauled me. But finally, when a policeman had
+joined his following, I let out all my links. I twisted and turned,
+and I swear I ran at least twenty blocks on the straight away. And I
+never saw that Chinaman again. The hat was a dandy, a brand-new
+Stetson, just out of the shop, and it was the envy of the whole push.
+Furthermore, it was the symbol that I had delivered the goods. I wore
+it for over a year.
+
+Road-kids are nice little chaps--when you get them alone and they are
+telling you "how it happened"; but take my word for it, watch out for
+them when they run in pack. Then they are wolves, and like wolves they
+are capable of dragging down the strongest man. At such times they are
+not cowardly. They will fling themselves upon a man and hold on with
+every ounce of strength in their wiry bodies, till he is thrown and
+helpless. More than once have I seen them do it, and I know whereof I
+speak. Their motive is usually robbery. And watch out for the "strong
+arm." Every kid in the push I travelled with was expert at it. Even
+French Kid mastered it before he lost his legs.
+
+I have strong upon me now a vision of what I once saw in "The
+Willows." The Willows was a clump of trees in a waste piece of land
+near the railway depot and not more than five minutes walk from the
+heart of Sacramento. It is night-time and the scene is illumined by
+the thin light of stars. I see a husky laborer in the midst of a pack
+of road-kids. He is infuriated and cursing them, not a bit afraid,
+confident of his own strength. He weighs about one hundred and eighty
+pounds, and his muscles are hard; but he doesn't know what he is up
+against. The kids are snarling. It is not pretty. They make a rush
+from all sides, and he lashes out and whirls. Barber Kid is standing
+beside me. As the man whirls, Barber Kid leaps forward and does the
+trick. Into the man's back goes his knee; around the man's neck, from
+behind, passes his right hand, the bone of the wrist pressing against
+the jugular vein. Barber Kid throws his whole weight backward. It is a
+powerful leverage. Besides, the man's wind has been shut off. It is
+the strong arm.
+
+The man resists, but he is already practically helpless. The road-kids
+are upon him from every side, clinging to arms and legs and body, and
+like a wolf at the throat of a moose Barber Kid hangs on and drags
+backward. Over the man goes, and down under the heap. Barber Kid
+changes the position of his own body, but never lets go. While some of
+the kids are "going through" the victim, others are holding his legs
+so that he cannot kick and thresh about. They improve the opportunity
+by taking off the man's shoes. As for him, he has given in. He is
+beaten. Also, what of the strong arm at his throat, he is short of
+wind. He is making ugly choking noises, and the kids hurry. They
+really don't want to kill him. All is done. At a word all holds are
+released at once, and the kids scatter, one of them lugging the
+shoes--he knows where he can get half a dollar for them. The man sits
+up and looks about him, dazed and helpless. Even if he wanted to,
+barefooted pursuit in the darkness would be hopeless. I linger a
+moment and watch him. He is feeling at his throat, making dry, hawking
+noises, and jerking his head in a quaint way as though to assure
+himself that the neck is not dislocated. Then I slip away to join the
+push, and see that man no more--though I shall always see him, sitting
+there in the starlight, somewhat dazed, a bit frightened, greatly
+dishevelled, and making quaint jerking movements of head and neck.
+
+Drunken men are the especial prey of the road-kids. Robbing a drunken
+man they call "rolling a stiff"; and wherever they are, they are on
+the constant lookout for drunks. The drunk is their particular meat,
+as the fly is the particular meat of the spider. The rolling of a
+stiff is ofttimes an amusing sight, especially when the stiff is
+helpless and when interference is unlikely. At the first swoop the
+stiff's money and jewellery go. Then the kids sit around their victim
+in a sort of pow-wow. A kid generates a fancy for the stiff's necktie.
+Off it comes. Another kid is after underclothes. Off they come, and a
+knife quickly abbreviates arms and legs. Friendly hoboes may be called
+in to take the coat and trousers, which are too large for the kids.
+And in the end they depart, leaving beside the stiff the heap of their
+discarded rags.
+
+Another vision comes to me. It is a dark night. My push is coming
+along the sidewalk in the suburbs. Ahead of us, under an electric
+light, a man crosses the street diagonally. There is something
+tentative and desultory in his walk. The kids scent the game on the
+instant. The man is drunk. He blunders across the opposite sidewalk
+and is lost in the darkness as he takes a short-cut through a vacant
+lot. No hunting cry is raised, but the pack flings itself forward in
+quick pursuit. In the middle of the vacant lot it comes upon him. But
+what is this?--snarling and strange forms, small and dim and menacing,
+are between the pack and its prey. It is another pack of road-kids,
+and in the hostile pause we learn that it is their meat, that they
+have been trailing it a dozen blocks and more and that we are butting
+in. But it is the world primeval. These wolves are baby wolves. (As a
+matter of fact, I don't think one of them was over twelve or thirteen
+years of age. I met some of them afterward, and learned that they had
+just arrived that day over the hill, and that they hailed from Denver
+and Salt Lake City.) Our pack flings forward. The baby wolves squeal
+and screech and fight like little demons. All about the drunken man
+rages the struggle for the possession of him. Down he goes in the
+thick of it, and the combat rages over his body after the fashion of
+the Greeks and Trojans over the body and armor of a fallen hero. Amid
+cries and tears and wailings the baby wolves are dispossessed, and my
+pack rolls the stiff. But always I remember the poor stiff and his
+befuddled amazement at the abrupt eruption of battle in the vacant
+lot. I see him now, dim in the darkness, titubating in stupid wonder,
+good-naturedly essaying the role of peacemaker in that multitudinous
+scrap the significance of which he did not understand, and the really
+hurt expression on his face when he, unoffending he, was clutched at
+by many hands and dragged down in the thick of the press.
+
+"Bindle-stiffs" are favorite prey of the road-kids. A bindle-stiff is
+a working tramp. He takes his name from the roll of blankets he
+carries, which is known as a "bindle." Because he does work, a
+bindle-stiff is expected usually to have some small change about him,
+and it is after that small change that the road-kids go. The best
+hunting-ground for bindle-stiffs is in the sheds, barns, lumber-yards,
+railroad-yards, etc., on the edges of a city, and the time for hunting
+is the night, when the bindle-stiff seeks these places to roll up in
+his blankets and sleep.
+
+"Gay-cats" also come to grief at the hands of the road-kid. In more
+familiar parlance, gay-cats are short-horns, _chechaquos_, new chums,
+or tenderfeet. A gay-cat is a newcomer on The Road who is man-grown,
+or, at least, youth-grown. A boy on The Road, on the other hand, no
+matter how green he is, is never a gay-cat; he is a road-kid or a
+"punk," and if he travels with a "profesh," he is known possessively
+as a "prushun." I was never a prushun, for I did not take kindly to
+possession. I was first a road-kid and then a profesh. Because I
+started in young, I practically skipped my gay-cat apprenticeship. For
+a short period, during the time I was exchanging my 'Frisco Kid monica
+for that of Sailor Jack, I labored under the suspicion of being a
+gay-cat. But closer acquaintance on the part of those that suspected
+me quickly disabused their minds, and in a short time I acquired the
+unmistakable airs and ear-marks of the blowed-in-the-glass profesh.
+And be it known, here and now, that the profesh are the aristocracy of
+The Road. They are the lords and masters, the aggressive men, the
+primordial noblemen, the _blond beasts_ so beloved of Nietzsche.
+
+When I came back over the hill from Nevada, I found that some river
+pirate had stolen Dinny McCrea's boat. (A funny thing at this day is
+that I cannot remember what became of the skiff in which Nickey the
+Greek and I sailed from Oakland to Port Costa. I know that the
+constable didn't get it, and I know that it didn't go with us up the
+Sacramento River, and that is all I do know.) With the loss of Dinny
+McCrea's boat, I was pledged to The Road; and when I grew tired of
+Sacramento, I said good-by to the push (which, in its friendly way,
+tried to ditch me from a freight as I left town) and started on a
+_passear_ down the valley of the San Joaquin. The Road had gripped me
+and would not let me go; and later, when I had voyaged to sea and done
+one thing and another, I returned to The Road to make longer flights,
+to be a "comet" and a profesh, and to plump into the bath of sociology
+that wet me to the skin.
+
+
+
+
+TWO THOUSAND STIFFS
+
+
+A "stiff" is a tramp. It was once my fortune to travel a few weeks
+with a "push" that numbered two thousand. This was known as "Kelly's
+Army." Across the wild and woolly West, clear from California, General
+Kelly and his heroes had captured trains; but they fell down when they
+crossed the Missouri and went up against the effete East. The East
+hadn't the slightest intention of giving free transportation to two
+thousand hoboes. Kelly's Army lay helplessly for some time at Council
+Bluffs. The day I joined it, made desperate by delay, it marched out
+to capture a train.
+
+It was quite an imposing sight. General Kelly sat a magnificent black
+charger, and with waving banners, to the martial music of fife and
+drum corps, company by company, in two divisions, his two thousand
+stiffs countermarched before him and hit the wagon-road to the little
+burg of Weston, seven miles away. Being the latest recruit, I was in
+the last company, of the last regiment, of the Second Division, and,
+furthermore, in the last rank of the rear-guard. The army went into
+camp at Weston beside the railroad track--beside the tracks, rather,
+for two roads went through: the Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul, and
+the Rock Island.
+
+Our intention was to take the first train out, but the railroad
+officials "coppered" our play--and won. There was no first train. They
+tied up the two lines and stopped running trains. In the meantime,
+while we lay by the dead tracks, the good people of Omaha and Council
+Bluffs were bestirring themselves. Preparations were making to form a
+mob, capture a train in Council Bluffs, run it down to us, and make us
+a present of it. The railroad officials coppered that play, too. They
+didn't wait for the mob. Early in the morning of the second day, an
+engine, with a single private car attached, arrived at the station and
+side-tracked. At this sign that life had renewed in the dead roads,
+the whole army lined up beside the track.
+
+But never did life renew so monstrously on a dead railroad as it did
+on those two roads. From the west came the whistle of a locomotive.
+It was coming in our direction, bound east. We were bound east. A stir
+of preparation ran down our ranks. The whistle tooted fast and
+furiously, and the train thundered at top speed. The hobo didn't live
+that could have boarded it. Another locomotive whistled, and another
+train came through at top speed, and another, and another, train after
+train, train after train, till toward the last the trains were
+composed of passenger coaches, box-cars, flat-cars, dead engines,
+cabooses, mail-cars, wrecking appliances, and all the riff-raff of
+worn-out and abandoned rolling-stock that collects in the yards of
+great railways. When the yards at Council Bluffs had been completely
+cleaned, the private car and engine went east, and the tracks died for
+keeps.
+
+That day went by, and the next, and nothing moved, and in the
+meantime, pelted by sleet, and rain, and hail, the two thousand hoboes
+lay beside the track. But that night the good people of Council Bluffs
+went the railroad officials one better. A mob formed in Council
+Bluffs, crossed the river to Omaha, and there joined with another mob
+in a raid on the Union Pacific yards. First they captured an engine,
+next they knocked a train together, and then the united mobs piled
+aboard, crossed the Missouri, and ran down the Rock Island right of
+way to turn the train over to us. The railway officials tried to
+copper this play, but fell down, to the mortal terror of the section
+boss and one member of the section gang at Weston. This pair, under
+secret telegraphic orders, tried to wreck our train-load of
+sympathizers by tearing up the track. It happened that we were
+suspicious and had our patrols out. Caught red-handed at
+train-wrecking, and surrounded by twenty hundred infuriated hoboes,
+that section-gang boss and assistant prepared to meet death. I don't
+remember what saved them, unless it was the arrival of the train.
+
+It was our turn to fall down, and we did, hard. In their haste, the
+two mobs had neglected to make up a sufficiently long train. There
+wasn't room for two thousand hoboes to ride. So the mobs and the
+hoboes had a talkfest, fraternized, sang songs, and parted, the mobs
+going back on their captured train to Omaha, the hoboes pulling out
+next morning on a hundred-and-forty-mile march to Des Moines. It was
+not until Kelly's Army crossed the Missouri that it began to walk,
+and after that it never rode again. It cost the railroads slathers of
+money, but they were acting on principle, and they won.
+
+Underwood, Leola, Menden, Avoca, Walnut, Marno, Atlantic, Wyoto,
+Anita, Adair, Adam, Casey, Stuart, Dexter, Carlham, De Soto, Van
+Meter, Booneville, Commerce, Valley Junction--how the names of the
+towns come back to me as I con the map and trace our route through the
+fat Iowa country! And the hospitable Iowa farmer-folk! They turned out
+with their wagons and carried our baggage; gave us hot lunches at noon
+by the wayside; mayors of comfortable little towns made speeches of
+welcome and hastened us on our way; deputations of little girls and
+maidens came out to meet us, and the good citizens turned out by
+hundreds, locked arms, and marched with us down their main streets. It
+was circus day when we came to town, and every day was circus day, for
+there were many towns.
+
+In the evenings our camps were invaded by whole populations. Every
+company had its campfire, and around each fire something was doing.
+The cooks in my company, Company L, were song-and-dance artists and
+contributed most of our entertainment. In another part of the
+encampment the glee club would be singing--one of its star voices was
+the "Dentist," drawn from Company L, and we were mighty proud of him.
+Also, he pulled teeth for the whole army, and, since the extractions
+usually occurred at meal-time, our digestions were stimulated by
+variety of incident. The Dentist had no anaesthetics, but two or three
+of us were always on tap to volunteer to hold down the patient. In
+addition to the stunts of the companies and the glee club, church
+services were usually held, local preachers officiating, and always
+there was a great making of political speeches. All these things ran
+neck and neck; it was a full-blown Midway. A lot of talent can be dug
+out of two thousand hoboes. I remember we had a picked baseball nine,
+and on Sundays we made a practice of putting it all over the local
+nines. Sometimes we did it twice on Sundays.
+
+Last year, while on a lecturing trip, I rode into Des Moines in a
+Pullman--I don't mean a "side-door Pullman," but the real thing. On
+the outskirts of the city I saw the old stove-works, and my heart
+leaped. It was there, at the stove-works, a dozen years before, that
+the Army lay down and swore a mighty oath that its feet were sore and
+that it would walk no more. We took possession of the stove-works and
+told Des Moines that we had come to stay--that we'd walked in, but
+we'd be blessed if we'd walk out. Des Moines was hospitable, but this
+was too much of a good thing. Do a little mental arithmetic, gentle
+reader. Two thousand hoboes, eating three square meals, make six
+thousand meals per day, forty-two thousand meals per week, or one
+hundred and sixty-eight thousand meals per shortest month in the
+calendar. That's going some. We had no money. It was up to Des Moines.
+
+Des Moines was desperate. We lay in camp, made political speeches,
+held sacred concerts, pulled teeth, played baseball and seven-up, and
+ate our six thousand meals per day, and Des Moines paid for it. Des
+Moines pleaded with the railroads, but they were obdurate; they had
+said we shouldn't ride, and that settled it. To permit us to ride
+would be to establish a precedent, and there weren't going to be any
+precedents. And still we went on eating. That was the terrifying
+factor in the situation. We were bound for Washington, and Des Moines
+would have had to float municipal bonds to pay all our railroad fares,
+even at special rates, and if we remained much longer, she'd have to
+float bonds anyway to feed us.
+
+Then some local genius solved the problem. We wouldn't walk. Very
+good. We should ride. From Des Moines to Keokuk on the Mississippi
+flowed the Des Moines River. This particular stretch of river was
+three hundred miles long. We could ride on it, said the local genius;
+and, once equipped with floating stock, we could ride on down the
+Mississippi to the Ohio, and thence up the Ohio, winding up with a
+short portage over the mountains to Washington.
+
+Des Moines took up a subscription. Public-spirited citizens
+contributed several thousand dollars. Lumber, rope, nails, and cotton
+for calking were bought in large quantities, and on the banks of the
+Des Moines was inaugurated a tremendous era of shipbuilding. Now the
+Des Moines is a picayune stream, unduly dignified by the appellation
+of "river." In our spacious western land it would be called a "creek."
+The oldest inhabitants shook their heads and said we couldn't make it,
+that there wasn't enough water to float us. Des Moines didn't care,
+so long as it got rid of us, and we were such well-fed optimists that
+we didn't care either.
+
+On Wednesday, May 9, 1894, we got under way and started on our
+colossal picnic. Des Moines had got off pretty easily, and she
+certainly owes a statue in bronze to the local genius who got her out
+of her difficulty. True, Des Moines had to pay for our boats; we had
+eaten sixty-six thousand meals at the stove-works; and we took twelve
+thousand additional meals along with us in our commissary--as a
+precaution against famine in the wilds; but then, think what it would
+have meant if we had remained at Des Moines eleven months instead of
+eleven days. Also, when we departed, we promised Des Moines we'd come
+back if the river failed to float us.
+
+It was all very well having twelve thousand meals in the commissary,
+and no doubt the commissary "ducks" enjoyed them; for the commissary
+promptly got lost, and my boat, for one, never saw it again. The
+company formation was hopelessly broken up during the river-trip. In
+any camp of men there will always be found a certain percentage of
+shirks, of helpless, of just ordinary, and of hustlers. There were ten
+men in my boat, and they were the cream of Company L. Every man was a
+hustler. For two reasons I was included in the ten. First, I was as
+good a hustler as ever "threw his feet," and next, I was "Sailor
+Jack." I understood boats and boating. The ten of us forgot the
+remaining forty men of Company L, and by the time we had missed one
+meal we promptly forgot the commissary. We were independent. We went
+down the river "on our own," hustling our "chewin's," beating every
+boat in the fleet, and, alas that I must say it, sometimes taking
+possession of the stores the farmer-folk had collected for the Army.
+
+For a good part of the three hundred miles we were from half a day to
+a day or so in advance of the Army. We had managed to get hold of
+several American flags. When we approached a small town, or when we
+saw a group of farmers gathered on the bank, we ran up our flags,
+called ourselves the "advance boat," and demanded to know what
+provisions had been collected for the Army. We represented the Army,
+of course, and the provisions were turned over to us. But there
+wasn't anything small about us. We never took more than we could get
+away with. But we did take the cream of everything. For instance, if
+some philanthropic farmer had donated several dollars' worth of
+tobacco, we took it. So, also, we took butter and sugar, coffee and
+canned goods; but when the stores consisted of sacks of beans and
+flour, or two or three slaughtered steers, we resolutely refrained and
+went our way, leaving orders to turn such provisions over to the
+commissary boats whose business was to follow behind us.
+
+My, but the ten of us did live on the fat of the land! For a long time
+General Kelly vainly tried to head us off. He sent two rowers, in a
+light, round-bottomed boat, to overtake us and put a stop to our
+piratical careers. They overtook us all right, but they were two and
+we were ten. They were empowered by General Kelly to make us
+prisoners, and they told us so. When we expressed disinclination to
+become prisoners, they hurried ahead to the next town to invoke the
+aid of the authorities. We went ashore immediately and cooked an early
+supper; and under the cloak of darkness we ran by the town and its
+authorities.
+
+I kept a diary on part of the trip, and as I read it over now I note
+one persistently recurring phrase, namely, "Living fine." We did live
+fine. We even disdained to use coffee boiled in water. We made our
+coffee out of milk, calling the wonderful beverage, if I remember
+rightly, "pale Vienna."
+
+While we were ahead, skimming the cream, and while the commissary was
+lost far behind, the main Army, coming along in the middle, starved.
+This was hard on the Army, I'll allow; but then, the ten of us were
+individualists. We had initiative and enterprise. We ardently believed
+that the grub was to the man who got there first, the pale Vienna to
+the strong. On one stretch the Army went forty-eight hours without
+grub; and then it arrived at a small village of some three hundred
+inhabitants, the name of which I do not remember, though I think it
+was Red Rock. This town, following the practice of all towns through
+which the Army passed, had appointed a committee of safety. Counting
+five to a family, Red Rock consisted of sixty households. Her
+committee of safety was scared stiff by the eruption of two thousand
+hungry hoboes who lined their boats two and three deep along the
+river bank. General Kelly was a fair man. He had no intention of
+working a hardship on the village. He did not expect sixty households
+to furnish two thousand meals. Besides, the Army had its
+treasure-chest.
+
+But the committee of safety lost its head. "No encouragement to the
+invader" was its programme, and when General Kelly wanted to buy food,
+the committee turned him down. It had nothing to sell; General Kelly's
+money was "no good" in their burg. And then General Kelly went into
+action. The bugles blew. The Army left the boats and on top of the
+bank formed in battle array. The committee was there to see. General
+Kelly's speech was brief.
+
+"Boys," he said, "when did you eat last?"
+
+"Day before yesterday," they shouted.
+
+"Are you hungry?"
+
+A mighty affirmation from two thousand throats shook the atmosphere.
+Then General Kelly turned to the committee of safety:--
+
+"You see, gentlemen, the situation. My men have eaten nothing in
+forty-eight hours. If I turn them loose upon your town, I'll not be
+responsible for what happens. They are desperate. I offered to buy
+food for them, but you refused to sell. I now withdraw my offer.
+Instead, I shall demand. I give you five minutes to decide. Either
+kill me six steers and give me four thousand rations, or I turn the
+men loose. Five minutes, gentlemen."
+
+The terrified committee of safety looked at the two thousand hungry
+hoboes and collapsed. It didn't wait the five minutes. It wasn't going
+to take any chances. The killing of the steers and the collecting of
+the requisition began forthwith, and the Army dined.
+
+And still the ten graceless individualists soared along ahead and
+gathered in everything in sight. But General Kelly fixed us. He sent
+horsemen down each bank, warning farmers and townspeople against us.
+They did their work thoroughly, all right. The erstwhile hospitable
+farmers met us with the icy mit. Also, they summoned the constables
+when we tied up to the bank, and loosed the dogs. I know. Two of the
+latter caught me with a barbed-wire fence between me and the river. I
+was carrying two buckets of milk for the pale Vienna. I didn't damage
+the fence any; but we drank plebian coffee boiled with vulgar water,
+and it was up to me to throw my feet for another pair of trousers. I
+wonder, gentle reader, if you ever essayed hastily to climb a
+barbed-wire fence with a bucket of milk in each hand. Ever since that
+day I have had a prejudice against barbed wire, and I have gathered
+statistics on the subject.
+
+Unable to make an honest living so long as General Kelly kept his two
+horsemen ahead of us, we returned to the Army and raised a revolution.
+It was a small affair, but it devastated Company L of the Second
+Division. The captain of Company L refused to recognize us; said we
+were deserters, and traitors, and scalawags; and when he drew rations
+for Company L from the commissary, he wouldn't give us any. That
+captain didn't appreciate us, or he wouldn't have refused us grub.
+Promptly we intrigued with the first lieutenant. He joined us with the
+ten men in his boat, and in return we elected him captain of Company
+M. The captain of Company L raised a roar. Down upon us came General
+Kelly, Colonel Speed, and Colonel Baker. The twenty of us stood firm,
+and our revolution was ratified.
+
+But we never bothered with the commissary. Our hustlers drew better
+rations from the farmers. Our new captain, however, doubted us. He
+never knew when he'd see the ten of us again, once we got under way in
+the morning, so he called in a blacksmith to clinch his captaincy. In
+the stern of our boat, one on each side, were driven two heavy
+eye-bolts of iron. Correspondingly, on the bow of his boat, were
+fastened two huge iron hooks. The boats were brought together, end on,
+the hooks dropped into the eye-bolts, and there we were, hard and
+fast. We couldn't lose that captain. But we were irrepressible. Out of
+our very manacles we wrought an invincible device that enabled us to
+put it all over every other boat in the fleet.
+
+Like all great inventions, this one of ours was accidental. We
+discovered it the first time we ran on a snag in a bit of a rapid. The
+head-boat hung up and anchored, and the tail-boat swung around in the
+current, pivoting the head-boat on the snag. I was at the stern of the
+tail-boat, steering. In vain we tried to shove off. Then I ordered the
+men from the head-boat into the tail-boat. Immediately the head-boat
+floated clear, and its men returned into it. After that, snags, reefs,
+shoals, and bars had no terrors for us. The instant the head-boat
+struck, the men in it leaped into the tail-boat. Of course, the
+head-boat floated over the obstruction and the tail-boat then struck.
+Like automatons, the twenty men now in the tail-boat leaped into the
+head-boat, and the tail-boat floated past.
+
+The boats used by the Army were all alike, made by the mile and sawed
+off. They were flat-boats, and their lines were rectangles. Each boat
+was six feet wide, ten feet long, and a foot and a half deep. Thus,
+when our two boats were hooked together, I sat at the stern steering a
+craft twenty feet long, containing twenty husky hoboes who "spelled"
+each other at the oars and paddles, and loaded with blankets, cooking
+outfit, and our own private commissary.
+
+Still we caused General Kelly trouble. He had called in his horsemen,
+and substituted three police-boats that travelled in the van and
+allowed no boats to pass them. The craft containing Company M crowded
+the police-boats hard. We could have passed them easily, but it was
+against the rules. So we kept a respectful distance astern and waited.
+Ahead we knew was virgin farming country, unbegged and generous; but
+we waited. White water was all we needed, and when we rounded a bend
+and a rapid showed up we knew what would happen. Smash! Police-boat
+number one goes on a boulder and hangs up. Bang! Police-boat number
+two follows suit. Whop! Police-boat number three encounters the common
+fate of all. Of course our boat does the same things; but one, two,
+the men are out of the head-boat and into the tail-boat; one, two,
+they are out of the tail-boat and into the head-boat; and one, two,
+the men who belong in the tail-boat are back in it and we are dashing
+on. "Stop! you blankety-blank-blanks!" shriek the police-boats. "How
+can we?--blank the blankety-blank river, anyway!" we wail plaintively
+as we surge past, caught in that remorseless current that sweeps us on
+out of sight and into the hospitable farmer-country that replenishes
+our private commissary with the cream of its contributions. Again we
+drink pale Vienna and realize that the grub is to the man who gets
+there.
+
+Poor General Kelly! He devised another scheme. The whole fleet
+started ahead of us. Company M of the Second Division started in its
+proper place in the line, which was last. And it took us only one day
+to put the "kibosh" on that particular scheme. Twenty-five miles of
+bad water lay before us--all rapids, shoals, bars, and boulders. It
+was over that stretch of water that the oldest inhabitants of Des
+Moines had shaken their heads. Nearly two hundred boats entered the
+bad water ahead of us, and they piled up in the most astounding
+manner. We went through that stranded fleet like hemlock through the
+fire. There was no avoiding the boulders, bars, and snags except by
+getting out on the bank. We didn't avoid them. We went right over
+them, one, two, one, two, head-boat, tail-boat, head-boat, tail-boat,
+all hands back and forth and back again. We camped that night alone,
+and loafed in camp all of next day while the Army patched and repaired
+its wrecked boats and straggled up to us.
+
+There was no stopping our cussedness. We rigged up a mast, piled on
+the canvas (blankets), and travelled short hours while the Army worked
+over-time to keep us in sight. Then General Kelly had recourse to
+diplomacy. No boat could touch us in the straight-away. Without
+discussion, we were the hottest bunch that ever came down the Des
+Moines. The ban of the police-boats was lifted. Colonel Speed was put
+aboard, and with this distinguished officer we had the honor of
+arriving first at Keokuk on the Mississippi. And right here I want to
+say to General Kelly and Colonel Speed that here's my hand. You were
+heroes, both of you, and you were men. And I'm sorry for at least ten
+per cent of the trouble that was given you by the head-boat of Company
+M.
+
+At Keokuk the whole fleet was lashed together in a huge raft, and,
+after being wind-bound a day, a steamboat took us in tow down the
+Mississippi to Quincy, Illinois, where we camped across the river on
+Goose Island. Here the raft idea was abandoned, the boats being joined
+together in groups of four and decked over. Somebody told me that
+Quincy was the richest town of its size in the United States. When I
+heard this, I was immediately overcome by an irresistible impulse to
+throw my feet. No "blowed-in-the-glass profesh" could possibly pass up
+such a promising burg. I crossed the river to Quincy in a small
+dug-out; but I came back in a large riverboat, down to the gunwales
+with the results of my thrown feet. Of course I kept all the money I
+had collected, though I paid the boat-hire; also I took my pick of the
+underwear, socks, cast-off clothes, shirts, "kicks," and "sky-pieces";
+and when Company M had taken all it wanted there was still a
+respectable heap that was turned over to Company L. Alas, I was young
+and prodigal in those days! I told a thousand "stories" to the good
+people of Quincy, and every story was "good"; but since I have come to
+write for the magazines I have often regretted the wealth of story,
+the fecundity of fiction, I lavished that day in Quincy, Illinois.
+
+It was at Hannibal, Missouri, that the ten invincibles went to pieces.
+It was not planned. We just naturally flew apart. The Boiler-Maker and
+I deserted secretly. On the same day Scotty and Davy made a swift
+sneak for the Illinois shore; also McAvoy and Fish achieved their
+get-away. This accounts for six of the ten; what became of the
+remaining four I do not know. As a sample of life on The Road, I make
+the following quotation from my diary of the several days following my
+desertion.
+
+"Friday, May 25th. Boiler-Maker and I left the camp on the island. We
+went ashore on the Illinois side in a skiff and walked six miles on
+the C.B. & Q. to Fell Creek. We had gone six miles out of our way, but
+we got on a hand-car and rode six miles to Hull's, on the Wabash.
+While there, we met McAvoy, Fish, Scotty, and Davy, who had also
+pulled out from the Army.
+
+"Saturday, May 26th. At 2.11 A.M. we caught the Cannonball as she
+slowed up at the crossing. Scotty and Davy were ditched. The four of
+us were ditched at the Bluffs, forty miles farther on. In the
+afternoon Fish and McAvoy caught a freight while Boiler-Maker and I
+were away getting something to eat.
+
+"Sunday, May 27th. At 3.21 A.M. we caught the Cannonball and found
+Scotty and Davy on the blind. We were all ditched at daylight at
+Jacksonville. The C. & A. runs through here, and we're going to take
+that. Boiler-Maker went off, but didn't return. Guess he caught a
+freight.
+
+"Monday, May 28th. Boiler-Maker didn't show up. Scotty and Davy went
+off to sleep somewhere, and didn't get back in time to catch the K.C.
+passenger at 3.30 A.M. I caught her and rode her till after sunrise to
+Masson City, 25,000 inhabitants. Caught a cattle train and rode all
+night.
+
+"Tuesday, May 29th. Arrived in Chicago at 7 A.M...."
+
+ * * * * *
+
+And years afterward, in China, I had the grief of learning that the
+device we employed to navigate the rapids of the Des Moines--the
+one-two-one-two, head-boat-tail-boat proposition--was not originated
+by us. I learned that the Chinese river-boatmen had for thousands of
+years used a similar device to negotiate "bad water." It is a good
+stunt all right, even if we don't get the credit. It answers Dr.
+Jordan's test of truth: "Will it work? Will you trust your life to
+it?"
+
+
+
+
+BULLS
+
+
+If the tramp were suddenly to pass away from the United States,
+widespread misery for many families would follow. The tramp enables
+thousands of men to earn honest livings, educate their children, and
+bring them up God-fearing and industrious. I know. At one time my
+father was a constable and hunted tramps for a living. The community
+paid him so much per head for all the tramps he could catch, and also,
+I believe, he got mileage fees. Ways and means was always a pressing
+problem in our household, and the amount of meat on the table, the new
+pair of shoes, the day's outing, or the text-book for school, were
+dependent upon my father's luck in the chase. Well I remember the
+suppressed eagerness and the suspense with which I waited to learn
+each morning what the results of his past night's toil had been--how
+many tramps he had gathered in and what the chances were for
+convicting them. And so it was, when later, as a tramp, I succeeded in
+eluding some predatory constable, I could not but feel sorry for the
+little boys and girls at home in that constable's house; it seemed to
+me in a way that I was defrauding those little boys and girls of some
+of the good things of life.
+
+But it's all in the game. The hobo defies society, and society's
+watch-dogs make a living out of him. Some hoboes like to be caught by
+the watch-dogs--especially in winter-time. Of course, such hoboes
+select communities where the jails are "good," wherein no work is
+performed and the food is substantial. Also, there have been, and most
+probably still are, constables who divide their fees with the hoboes
+they arrest. Such a constable does not have to hunt. He whistles, and
+the game comes right up to his hand. It is surprising, the money that
+is made out of stone-broke tramps. All through the South--at least
+when I was hoboing--are convict camps and plantations, where the time
+of convicted hoboes is bought by the farmers, and where the hoboes
+simply have to work. Then there are places like the quarries at
+Rutland, Vermont, where the hobo is exploited, the unearned energy in
+his body, which he has accumulated by "battering on the drag" or
+"slamming gates," being extracted for the benefit of that particular
+community.
+
+Now I don't know anything about the quarries at Rutland, Vermont. I'm
+very glad that I don't, when I remember how near I was to getting into
+them. Tramps pass the word along, and I first heard of those quarries
+when I was in Indiana. But when I got into New England, I heard of
+them continually, and always with danger-signals flying. "They want
+men in the quarries," the passing hoboes said; "and they never give a
+'stiff' less than ninety days." By the time I got into New Hampshire I
+was pretty well keyed up over those quarries, and I fought shy of
+railroad cops, "bulls," and constables as I never had before.
+
+One evening I went down to the railroad yards at Concord and found a
+freight train made up and ready to start. I located an empty box-car,
+slid open the side-door, and climbed in. It was my hope to win across
+to White River by morning; that would bring me into Vermont and not
+more than a thousand miles from Rutland. But after that, as I worked
+north, the distance between me and the point of danger would begin to
+increase. In the car I found a "gay-cat," who displayed unusual
+trepidation at my entrance. He took me for a "shack" (brakeman), and
+when he learned I was only a stiff, he began talking about the
+quarries at Rutland as the cause of the fright I had given him. He was
+a young country fellow, and had beaten his way only over local
+stretches of road.
+
+The freight got under way, and we lay down in one end of the box-car
+and went to sleep. Two or three hours afterward, at a stop, I was
+awakened by the noise of the right-hand door being softly slid open.
+The gay-cat slept on. I made no movement, though I veiled my eyes with
+my lashes to a little slit through which I could see out. A lantern
+was thrust in through the doorway, followed by the head of a shack. He
+discovered us, and looked at us for a moment. I was prepared for a
+violent expression on his part, or the customary "Hit the grit, you
+son of a toad!" Instead of this he cautiously withdrew the lantern and
+very, very softly slid the door to. This struck me as eminently
+unusual and suspicious. I listened, and softly I heard the hasp drop
+into place. The door was latched on the outside. We could not open it
+from the inside. One way of sudden exit from that car was blocked. It
+would never do. I waited a few seconds, then crept to the left-hand
+door and tried it. It was not yet latched. I opened it, dropped to the
+ground, and closed it behind me. Then I passed across the bumpers to
+the other side of the train. I opened the door the shack had latched,
+climbed in, and closed it behind me. Both exits were available again.
+The gay-cat was still asleep.
+
+The train got under way. It came to the next stop. I heard footsteps
+in the gravel. Then the left-hand door was thrown open noisily. The
+gay-cat awoke, I made believe to awake; and we sat up and stared at
+the shack and his lantern. He didn't waste any time getting down to
+business.
+
+"I want three dollars," he said.
+
+We got on our feet and came nearer to him to confer. We expressed an
+absolute and devoted willingness to give him three dollars, but
+explained our wretched luck that compelled our desire to remain
+unsatisfied. The shack was incredulous. He dickered with us. He would
+compromise for two dollars. We regretted our condition of poverty. He
+said uncomplimentary things, called us sons of toads, and damned us
+from hell to breakfast. Then he threatened. He explained that if we
+didn't dig up, he'd lock us in and carry us on to White River and turn
+us over to the authorities. He also explained all about the quarries
+at Rutland.
+
+Now that shack thought he had us dead to rights. Was not he guarding
+the one door, and had he not himself latched the opposite door but a
+few minutes before? When he began talking about quarries, the
+frightened gay-cat started to sidle across to the other door. The
+shack laughed loud and long. "Don't be in a hurry," he said; "I locked
+that door on the outside at the last stop." So implicitly did he
+believe the door to be locked that his words carried conviction. The
+gay-cat believed and was in despair.
+
+The shack delivered his ultimatum. Either we should dig up two
+dollars, or he would lock us in and turn us over to the constable at
+White River--and that meant ninety days and the quarries. Now, gentle
+reader, just suppose that the other door had been locked. Behold the
+precariousness of human life. For lack of a dollar, I'd have gone to
+the quarries and served three months as a convict slave. So would the
+gay-cat. Count me out, for I was hopeless; but consider the gay-cat.
+He might have come out, after those ninety days, pledged to a life of
+crime. And later he might have broken your skull, even your skull,
+with a blackjack in an endeavor to take possession of the money on
+your person--and if not your skull, then some other poor and
+unoffending creature's skull.
+
+But the door was unlocked, and I alone knew it. The gay-cat and I
+begged for mercy. I joined in the pleading and wailing out of sheer
+cussedness, I suppose. But I did my best. I told a "story" that would
+have melted the heart of any mug; but it didn't melt the heart of that
+sordid money-grasper of a shack. When he became convinced that we
+didn't have any money, he slid the door shut and latched it, then
+lingered a moment on the chance that we had fooled him and that we
+would now offer him the two dollars.
+
+Then it was that I let out a few links. I called him a son of a toad.
+I called him all the other things he had called me. And then I called
+him a few additional things. I came from the West, where men knew how
+to swear, and I wasn't going to let any mangy shack on a measly New
+England "jerk" put it over me in vividness and vigor of language. At
+first the shack tried to laugh it down. Then he made the mistake of
+attempting to reply. I let out a few more links, and I cut him to the
+raw and therein rubbed winged and flaming epithets. Nor was my fine
+frenzy all whim and literary; I was indignant at this vile creature,
+who, in default of a dollar, would consign me to three months of
+slavery. Furthermore, I had a sneaking idea that he got a "drag" out
+of the constable fees.
+
+But I fixed him. I lacerated his feelings and pride several dollars'
+worth. He tried to scare me by threatening to come in after me and
+kick the stuffing out of me. In return, I promised to kick him in the
+face while he was climbing in. The advantage of position was with me,
+and he saw it. So he kept the door shut and called for help from the
+rest of the train-crew. I could hear them answering and crunching
+through the gravel to him. And all the time the other door was
+unlatched, and they didn't know it; and in the meantime the gay-cat
+was ready to die with fear.
+
+Oh, I was a hero--with my line of retreat straight behind me. I
+slanged the shack and his mates till they threw the door open and I
+could see their infuriated faces in the shine of the lanterns. It was
+all very simple to them. They had us cornered in the car, and they
+were going to come in and man-handle us. They started. I didn't kick
+anybody in the face. I jerked the opposite door open, and the gay-cat
+and I went out. The train-crew took after us.
+
+We went over--if I remember correctly--a stone fence. But I have no
+doubts of recollection about where we found ourselves. In the darkness
+I promptly fell over a grave-stone. The gay-cat sprawled over another.
+And then we got the chase of our lives through that graveyard. The
+ghosts must have thought we were going some. So did the train-crew,
+for when we emerged from the graveyard and plunged across a road into
+a dark wood, the shacks gave up the pursuit and went back to their
+train. A little later that night the gay-cat and I found ourselves at
+the well of a farmhouse. We were after a drink of water, but we
+noticed a small rope that ran down one side of the well. We hauled it
+up and found on the end of it a gallon-can of cream. And that is as
+near as I got to the quarries of Rutland, Vermont.
+
+When hoboes pass the word along, concerning a town, that "the bulls is
+horstile," avoid that town, or, if you must, go through softly. There
+are some towns that one must always go through softly. Such a town was
+Cheyenne, on the Union Pacific. It had a national reputation for being
+"horstile,"--and it was all due to the efforts of one Jeff Carr (if I
+remember his name aright). Jeff Carr could size up the "front" of a
+hobo on the instant. He never entered into discussion. In the one
+moment he sized up the hobo, and in the next he struck out with both
+fists, a club, or anything else he had handy. After he had man-handled
+the hobo, he started him out of town with a promise of worse if he
+ever saw him again. Jeff Carr knew the game. North, south, east, and
+west to the uttermost confines of the United States (Canada and Mexico
+included), the man-handled hoboes carried the word that Cheyenne was
+"horstile." Fortunately, I never encountered Jeff Carr. I passed
+through Cheyenne in a blizzard. There were eighty-four hoboes with me
+at the time. The strength of numbers made us pretty nonchalant on
+most things, but not on Jeff Carr. The connotation of "Jeff Carr"
+stunned our imagination, numbed our virility, and the whole gang was
+mortally scared of meeting him.
+
+It rarely pays to stop and enter into explanations with bulls when
+they look "horstile." A swift get-away is the thing to do. It took me
+some time to learn this; but the finishing touch was put upon me by a
+bull in New York City. Ever since that time it has been an automatic
+process with me to make a run for it when I see a bull reaching for
+me. This automatic process has become a mainspring of conduct in me,
+wound up and ready for instant release. I shall never get over it.
+Should I be eighty years old, hobbling along the street on crutches,
+and should a policeman suddenly reach out for me, I know I'd drop the
+crutches and run like a deer.
+
+The finishing touch to my education in bulls was received on a hot
+summer afternoon in New York City. It was during a week of scorching
+weather. I had got into the habit of throwing my feet in the morning,
+and of spending the afternoon in the little park that is hard by
+Newspaper Row and the City Hall. It was near there that I could buy
+from pushcart men current books (that had been injured in the making
+or binding) for a few cents each. Then, right in the park itself, were
+little booths where one could buy glorious, ice-cold, sterilized milk
+and buttermilk at a penny a glass. Every afternoon I sat on a bench
+and read, and went on a milk debauch. I got away with from five to ten
+glasses each afternoon. It was dreadfully hot weather.
+
+So here I was, a meek and studious milk-drinking hobo, and behold what
+I got for it. One afternoon I arrived at the park, a fresh
+book-purchase under my arm and a tremendous buttermilk thirst under my
+shirt. In the middle of the street, in front of the City Hall, I
+noticed, as I came along heading for the buttermilk booth, that a
+crowd had formed. It was right where I was crossing the street, so I
+stopped to see the cause of the collection of curious men. At first I
+could see nothing. Then, from the sounds I heard and from a glimpse I
+caught, I knew that it was a bunch of gamins playing pee-wee. Now
+pee-wee is not permitted in the streets of New York. I didn't know
+that, but I learned pretty lively. I had paused possibly thirty
+seconds, in which time I had learned the cause of the crowd, when I
+heard a gamin yell "Bull!" The gamins knew their business. They ran. I
+didn't.
+
+The crowd broke up immediately and started for the sidewalk on both
+sides of the street. I started for the sidewalk on the park-side.
+There must have been fifty men, who had been in the original crowd,
+who were heading in the same direction. We were loosely strung out. I
+noticed the bull, a strapping policeman in a gray suit. He was coming
+along the middle of the street, without haste, merely sauntering. I
+noticed casually that he changed his course, and was heading obliquely
+for the same sidewalk that I was heading for directly. He sauntered
+along, threading the strung-out crowd, and I noticed that his course
+and mine would cross each other. I was so innocent of wrong-doing
+that, in spite of my education in bulls and their ways, I apprehended
+nothing. I never dreamed that bull was after me. Out of my respect for
+the law I was actually all ready to pause the next moment and let him
+cross in front of me. The pause came all right, but it was not of my
+volition; also it was a backward pause. Without warning, that bull had
+suddenly launched out at me on the chest with both hands. At the same
+moment, verbally, he cast the bar sinister on my genealogy.
+
+All my free American blood boiled. All my liberty-loving ancestors
+clamored in me. "What do you mean?" I demanded. You see, I wanted an
+explanation. And I got it. Bang! His club came down on top of my head,
+and I was reeling backward like a drunken man, the curious faces of
+the onlookers billowing up and down like the waves of the sea, my
+precious book falling from under my arm into the dirt, the bull
+advancing with the club ready for another blow. And in that dizzy
+moment I had a vision. I saw that club descending many times upon my
+head; I saw myself, bloody and battered and hard-looking, in a
+police-court; I heard a charge of disorderly conduct, profane
+language, resisting an officer, and a few other things, read by a
+clerk; and I saw myself across in Blackwell's Island. Oh, I knew the
+game. I lost all interest in explanations. I didn't stop to pick up my
+precious, unread book. I turned and ran. I was pretty sick, but I
+ran. And run I shall, to my dying day, whenever a bull begins to
+explain with a club.
+
+Why, years after my tramping days, when I was a student in the
+University of California, one night I went to the circus. After the
+show and the concert I lingered on to watch the working of the
+transportation machinery of a great circus. The circus was leaving
+that night. By a bonfire I came upon a bunch of small boys. There were
+about twenty of them, and as they talked with one another I learned
+that they were going to run away with the circus. Now the circus-men
+didn't want to be bothered with this mess of urchins, and a telephone
+to police headquarters had "coppered" the play. A squad of ten
+policemen had been despatched to the scene to arrest the small boys
+for violating the nine o'clock curfew ordinance. The policemen
+surrounded the bonfire, and crept up close to it in the darkness. At
+the signal, they made a rush, each policeman grabbing at the
+youngsters as he would grab into a basket of squirming eels.
+
+Now I didn't know anything about the coming of the police; and when I
+saw the sudden eruption of brass-buttoned, helmeted bulls, each of
+them reaching with both hands, all the forces and stability of my
+being were overthrown. Remained only the automatic process to run. And
+I ran. I didn't know I was running. I didn't know anything. It was, as
+I have said, automatic. There was no reason for me to run. I was not a
+hobo. I was a citizen of that community. It was my home town. I was
+guilty of no wrong-doing. I was a college man. I had even got my name
+in the papers, and I wore good clothes that had never been slept in.
+And yet I ran--blindly, madly, like a startled deer, for over a block.
+And when I came to myself, I noted that I was still running. It
+required a positive effort of will to stop those legs of mine.
+
+No, I'll never get over it. I can't help it. When a bull reaches, I
+run. Besides, I have an unhappy faculty for getting into jail. I have
+been in jail more times since I was a hobo than when I was one. I
+start out on a Sunday morning with a young lady on a bicycle ride.
+Before we can get outside the city limits we are arrested for passing
+a pedestrian on the sidewalk. I resolve to be more careful. The next
+time I am on a bicycle it is night-time and my acetylene-gas-lamp is
+misbehaving. I cherish the sickly flame carefully, because of the
+ordinance. I am in a hurry, but I ride at a snail's pace so as not to
+jar out the flickering flame. I reach the city limits; I am beyond the
+jurisdiction of the ordinance; and I proceed to scorch to make up for
+lost time. And half a mile farther on I am "pinched" by a bull, and
+the next morning I forfeit my bail in the police court. The city had
+treacherously extended its limits into a mile of the country, and I
+didn't know, that was all. I remember my inalienable right of free
+speech and peaceable assemblage, and I get up on a soap-box to trot
+out the particular economic bees that buzz in my bonnet, and a bull
+takes me off that box and leads me to the city prison, and after that
+I get out on bail. It's no use. In Korea I used to be arrested about
+every other day. It was the same thing in Manchuria. The last time I
+was in Japan I broke into jail under the pretext of being a Russian
+spy. It wasn't my pretext, but it got me into jail just the same.
+There is no hope for me. I am fated to do the Prisoner-of-Chillon
+stunt yet. This is prophecy.
+
+I once hypnotized a bull on Boston Common. It was past midnight and he
+had me dead to rights; but before I got done with him he had ponied up
+a silver quarter and given me the address of an all-night restaurant.
+Then there was a bull in Bristol, New Jersey, who caught me and let me
+go, and heaven knows he had provocation enough to put me in jail. I
+hit him the hardest I'll wager he was ever hit in his life. It
+happened this way. About midnight I nailed a freight out of
+Philadelphia. The shacks ditched me. She was pulling out slowly
+through the maze of tracks and switches of the freight-yards. I nailed
+her again, and again I was ditched. You see, I had to nail her
+"outside," for she was a through freight with every door locked and
+sealed.
+
+The second time I was ditched the shack gave me a lecture. He told me
+I was risking my life, that it was a fast freight and that she went
+some. I told him I was used to going some myself, but it was no go. He
+said he wouldn't permit me to commit suicide, and I hit the grit. But
+I nailed her a third time, getting in between on the bumpers. They
+were the most meagre bumpers I had ever seen--I do not refer to the
+real bumpers, the iron bumpers that are connected by the
+coupling-link and that pound and grind on each other; what I refer to
+are the beams, like huge cleats, that cross the ends of freight cars
+just above the bumpers. When one rides the bumpers, he stands on these
+cleats, one foot on each, the bumpers between his feet and just
+beneath.
+
+But the beams or cleats I found myself on were not the broad, generous
+ones that at that time were usually on box-cars. On the contrary, they
+were very narrow--not more than an inch and a half in breadth. I
+couldn't get half of the width of my sole on them. Then there was
+nothing to which to hold with my hands. True, there were the ends of
+the two box-cars; but those ends were flat, perpendicular surfaces.
+There were no grips. I could only press the flats of my palms against
+the car-ends for support. But that would have been all right if the
+cleats for my feet had been decently wide.
+
+As the freight got out of Philadelphia she began to hit up speed. Then
+I understood what the shack had meant by suicide. The freight went
+faster and faster. She was a through freight, and there was nothing to
+stop her. On that section of the Pennsylvania four tracks run side by
+side, and my east-bound freight didn't need to worry about passing
+west-bound freights, nor about being overtaken by east-bound
+expresses. She had the track to herself, and she used it. I was in a
+precarious situation. I stood with the mere edges of my feet on the
+narrow projections, the palms of my hands pressing desperately against
+the flat, perpendicular ends of each car. And those cars moved, and
+moved individually, up and down and back and forth. Did you ever see a
+circus rider, standing on two running horses, with one foot on the
+back of each horse? Well, that was what I was doing, with several
+differences. The circus rider had the reins to hold on to, while I had
+nothing; he stood on the broad soles of his feet, while I stood on the
+edges of mine; he bent his legs and body, gaining the strength of the
+arch in his posture and achieving the stability of a low centre of
+gravity, while I was compelled to stand upright and keep my legs
+straight; he rode face forward, while I was riding sidewise; and also,
+if he fell off, he'd get only a roll in the sawdust, while I'd have
+been ground to pieces beneath the wheels.
+
+And that freight was certainly going some, roaring and shrieking,
+swinging madly around curves, thundering over trestles, one car-end
+bumping up when the other was jarring down, or jerking to the right at
+the same moment the other was lurching to the left, and with me all
+the while praying and hoping for the train to stop. But she didn't
+stop. She didn't have to. For the first, last, and only time on The
+Road, I got all I wanted. I abandoned the bumpers and managed to get
+out on a side-ladder; it was ticklish work, for I had never
+encountered car-ends that were so parsimonious of hand-holds and
+foot-holds as those car-ends were.
+
+I heard the engine whistling, and I felt the speed easing down. I knew
+the train wasn't going to stop, but my mind was made up to chance it
+if she slowed down sufficiently. The right of way at this point took a
+curve, crossed a bridge over a canal, and cut through the town of
+Bristol. This combination compelled slow speed. I clung on to the
+side-ladder and waited. I didn't know it was the town of Bristol we
+were approaching. I did not know what necessitated slackening in
+speed. All I knew was that I wanted to get off. I strained my eyes in
+the darkness for a street-crossing on which to land. I was pretty well
+down the train, and before my car was in the town the engine was past
+the station and I could feel her making speed again.
+
+Then came the street. It was too dark to see how wide it was or what
+was on the other side. I knew I needed all of that street if I was to
+remain on my feet after I struck. I dropped off on the near side. It
+sounds easy. By "dropped off" I mean just this: I first of all, on the
+side-ladder, thrust my body forward as far as I could in the direction
+the train was going--this to give as much space as possible in which
+to gain backward momentum when I swung off. Then I swung, swung out
+and backward, backward with all my might, and let go--at the same time
+throwing myself backward as if I intended to strike the ground on the
+back of my head. The whole effort was to overcome as much as possible
+the primary forward momentum the train had imparted to my body. When
+my feet hit the grit, my body was lying backward on the air at an
+angle of forty-five degrees. I had reduced the forward momentum some,
+for when my feet struck, I did not immediately pitch forward on my
+face. Instead, my body rose to the perpendicular and began to incline
+forward. In point of fact, my body proper still retained much
+momentum, while my feet, through contact with the earth, had lost all
+their momentum. This momentum the feet had lost I had to supply anew
+by lifting them as rapidly as I could and running them forward in
+order to keep them under my forward-moving body. The result was that
+my feet beat a rapid and explosive tattoo clear across the street. I
+didn't dare stop them. If I had, I'd have pitched forward. It was up
+to me to keep on going.
+
+I was an involuntary projectile, worrying about what was on the other
+side of the street and hoping that it wouldn't be a stone wall or a
+telegraph pole. And just then I hit something. Horrors! I saw it just
+the instant before the disaster--of all things, a bull, standing there
+in the darkness. We went down together, rolling over and over; and the
+automatic process was such in that miserable creature that in the
+moment of impact he reached out and clutched me and never let go. We
+were both knocked out, and he held on to a very lamb-like hobo while
+he recovered.
+
+If that bull had any imagination, he must have thought me a traveller
+from other worlds, the man from Mars just arriving; for in the
+darkness he hadn't seen me swing from the train. In fact, his first
+words were: "Where did you come from?" His next words, and before I
+had time to answer, were: "I've a good mind to run you in." This
+latter, I am convinced, was likewise automatic. He was a really good
+bull at heart, for after I had told him a "story" and helped brush off
+his clothes, he gave me until the next freight to get out of town. I
+stipulated two things: first, that the freight be east-bound, and
+second, that it should not be a through freight with all doors sealed
+and locked. To this he agreed, and thus, by the terms of the Treaty of
+Bristol, I escaped being pinched.
+
+I remember another night, in that part of the country, when I just
+missed another bull. If I had hit him, I'd have telescoped him, for I
+was coming down from above, all holds free, with several other bulls
+one jump behind and reaching for me. This is how it happened. I had
+been lodging in a livery stable in Washington. I had a box-stall and
+unnumbered horse-blankets all to myself. In return for such sumptuous
+accommodation I took care of a string of horses each morning. I might
+have been there yet, if it hadn't been for the bulls.
+
+One evening, about nine o'clock, I returned to the stable to go to
+bed, and found a crap game in full blast. It had been a market day,
+and all the negroes had money. It would be well to explain the lay of
+the land. The livery stable faced on two streets. I entered the front,
+passed through the office, and came to the alley between two rows of
+stalls that ran the length of the building and opened out on the other
+street. Midway along this alley, beneath a gas-jet and between the
+rows of horses, were about forty negroes. I joined them as an
+onlooker. I was broke and couldn't play. A coon was making passes and
+not dragging down. He was riding his luck, and with each pass the
+total stake doubled. All kinds of money lay on the floor. It was
+fascinating. With each pass, the chances increased tremendously
+against the coon making another pass. The excitement was intense. And
+just then there came a thundering smash on the big doors that opened
+on the back street.
+
+A few of the negroes bolted in the opposite direction. I paused from
+my flight a moment to grab at the all kinds of money on the floor.
+This wasn't theft: it was merely custom. Every man who hadn't run was
+grabbing. The doors crashed open and swung in, and through them surged
+a squad of bulls. We surged the other way. It was dark in the office,
+and the narrow door would not permit all of us to pass out to the
+street at the same time. Things became congested. A coon took a dive
+through the window, taking the sash along with him and followed by
+other coons. At our rear, the bulls were nailing prisoners. A big coon
+and myself made a dash at the door at the same time. He was bigger
+than I, and he pivoted me and got through first. The next instant a
+club swatted him on the head and he went down like a steer. Another
+squad of bulls was waiting outside for us. They knew they couldn't
+stop the rush with their hands, and so they were swinging their clubs.
+I stumbled over the fallen coon who had pivoted me, ducked a swat from
+a club, dived between a bull's legs, and was free. And then how I ran!
+There was a lean mulatto just in front of me, and I took his pace. He
+knew the town better than I did, and I knew that in the way he ran lay
+safety. But he, on the other hand, took me for a pursuing bull. He
+never looked around. He just ran. My wind was good, and I hung on to
+his pace and nearly killed him. In the end he stumbled weakly, went
+down on his knees, and surrendered to me. And when he discovered I
+wasn't a bull, all that saved me was that he didn't have any wind left
+in him.
+
+That was why I left Washington--not on account of the mulatto, but on
+account of the bulls. I went down to the depot and caught the first
+blind out on a Pennsylvania Railroad express. After the train got good
+and under way and I noted the speed she was making, a misgiving smote
+me. This was a four-track railroad, and the engines took water on the
+fly. Hoboes had long since warned me never to ride the first blind on
+trains where the engines took water on the fly. And now let me
+explain. Between the tracks are shallow metal troughs. As the engine,
+at full speed, passes above, a sort of chute drops down into the
+trough. The result is that all the water in the trough rushes up the
+chute and fills the tender.
+
+Somewhere along between Washington and Baltimore, as I sat on the
+platform of the blind, a fine spray began to fill the air. It did no
+harm. Ah, ha, thought I; it's all a bluff, this taking water on the
+fly being bad for the bo on the first blind. What does this little
+spray amount to? Then I began to marvel at the device. This was
+railroading! Talk about your primitive Western railroading--and just
+then the tender filled up, and it hadn't reached the end of the
+trough. A tidal wave of water poured over the back of the tender and
+down upon me. I was soaked to the skin, as wet as if I had fallen
+overboard.
+
+The train pulled into Baltimore. As is the custom in the great Eastern
+cities, the railroad ran beneath the level of the streets on the
+bottom of a big "cut." As the train pulled into the lighted depot, I
+made myself as small as possible on the blind. But a railroad bull saw
+me, and gave chase. Two more joined him. I was past the depot, and I
+ran straight on down the track. I was in a sort of trap. On each side
+of me rose the steep walls of the cut, and if I ever essayed them and
+failed, I knew that I'd slide back into the clutches of the bulls. I
+ran on and on, studying the walls of the cut for a favorable place to
+climb up. At last I saw such a place. It came just after I had passed
+under a bridge that carried a level street across the cut. Up the
+steep slope I went, clawing hand and foot. The three railroad bulls
+were clawing up right after me.
+
+At the top, I found myself in a vacant lot. On one side was a low wall
+that separated it from the street. There was no time for minute
+investigation. They were at my heels. I headed for the wall and
+vaulted it. And right there was where I got the surprise of my life.
+One is used to thinking that one side of a wall is just as high as the
+other side. But that wall was different. You see, the vacant lot was
+much higher than the level of the street. On my side the wall was low,
+but on the other side--well, as I came soaring over the top, all holds
+free, it seemed to me that I was falling feet-first, plump into an
+abyss. There beneath me, on the sidewalk, under the light of a
+street-lamp was a bull. I guess it was nine or ten feet down to the
+sidewalk; but in the shock of surprise in mid-air it seemed twice that
+distance.
+
+I straightened out in the air and came down. At first I thought I was
+going to land on the bull. My clothes did brush him as my feet struck
+the sidewalk with explosive impact. It was a wonder he didn't drop
+dead, for he hadn't heard me coming. It was the man-from-Mars stunt
+over again. The bull did jump. He shied away from me like a horse from
+an auto; and then he reached for me. I didn't stop to explain. I left
+that to my pursuers, who were dropping over the wall rather gingerly.
+But I got a chase all right. I ran up one street and down another,
+dodged around corners, and at last got away.
+
+After spending some of the coin I'd got from the crap game and killing
+off an hour of time, I came back to the railroad cut, just outside the
+lights of the depot, and waited for a train. My blood had cooled down,
+and I shivered miserably, what of my wet clothes. At last a train
+pulled into the station. I lay low in the darkness, and successfully
+boarded her when she pulled out, taking good care this time to make
+the second blind. No more water on the fly in mine. The train ran
+forty miles to the first stop. I got off in a lighted depot that was
+strangely familiar. I was back in Washington. In some way, during the
+excitement of the get-away in Baltimore, running through strange
+streets, dodging and turning and retracing, I had got turned around. I
+had taken the train out the wrong way. I had lost a night's sleep, I
+had been soaked to the skin, I had been chased for my life; and for
+all my pains I was back where I had started. Oh, no, life on The Road
+is not all beer and skittles. But I didn't go back to the livery
+stable. I had done some pretty successful grabbing, and I didn't want
+to reckon up with the coons. So I caught the next train out, and ate
+my breakfast in Baltimore.
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ROAD***
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