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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:44:56 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:44:56 -0700 |
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diff --git a/14611-h/14611-h.htm b/14611-h/14611-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..81de643 --- /dev/null +++ b/14611-h/14611-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,22329 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>Voyages and Travels Volume 15</title> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content= +"text/html; charset=UTF-8"> +<style type="text/css"> +<!-- +body {background: #ffffcc; margin:10%; text-align:justify} +h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {color:green; text-align:center} +blockquote {font-size: .9em} +p.poem {text-align:center} +p.external {font-weight: bold} +--> +</style> +</head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14611 ***</div> + +<h2>A</h2> + +<h2>GENERAL</h2> + +<h2>HISTORY AND COLLECTION</h2> + +<h2>OF</h2> + +<h1>VOYAGES AND TRAVELS,</h1> + +<h2>ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER:</h2> + +<h2>FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND PROGRESS</h2> + +<h2>OF NAVIGATION, DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE,</h2> + +<h2>BY SEA AND LAND,</h2> + +<h2>FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO THE PRESENT TIME.</h2> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<h2>BY</h2> + +<h2>ROBERT KERR, F.R.S. & F.A.S. EDIN.</h2> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<h2>ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS.</h2> + +<h2>VOL. XV.</h2> + +<h3>WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH:</h3> + +<h3>AND T. CADELL, LONDON.</h3> + +<h3>MDCCCXXIV.</h3> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<h2>CONTENTS OF VOLUME XV.</h2> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<p><a href="#part3"><b>PART III.--continued</b></a></p> + +<p><i>General Voyages and Travels of Discovery, &c.</i></p> + +<p><a href="#book3-2"><b>BOOK II.--continued</b></a></p> + +<p>[Continuing An Account of a Voyage towards the South Pole, and +round the World, performed in his Majesty's ships the Resolution and +Adventure, in the Years 1772, 3, 4, and 5: Written by James Cook, +Commander of the Resolution.]</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter3-4"><b><i>CHAPTER IV.--continued</i></b></a></p> + +<p>From leaving New Zealand to our return to England.</p> + +<p>SECTION III. Range from Christmas Sound, round Cape Horn, through +Strait Le Maire, and round Staten Land; with an Account of the +Discovery of a Harbour in that Island, and a Description of the +Coasts,</p> + +<p>SECTION IV. Observations, geographical and nautical, with an +Account of the Islands near Staten Land, and the Animals found in +them,</p> + +<p>SECTION V. Proceedings after leaving Staten Island, with an +Account of the Discovery of the Isle of Georgia, and a Description of +it,</p> + +<p>SECTION VI. Proceedings after leaving the Isle of Georgia, with an +Account of the Discovery of Sandwich Land; with some Reasons for +there being Land about the South Pole,</p> + +<p>SECTION VII. Heads of what has been done in the Voyage; with some +Conjectures concerning the Formation of Ice-Islands; and an Account +of our Proceedings till our Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope,</p> + +<p>SECTION VIII. Captain Furneaux's Narrative of his Proceedings, in +the Adventure, from the Time he was separated from the Resolution, to +his Arrival in England; including Lieutenant Burney's Report +concerning the Boat's Crew who were murdered by the Inhabitants of +Queen Charlotte's Sound,</p> + +<p>SECTION IX. Transactions at the Cape of Good Hope; with an Account +of some Discoveries made by the French; and the Arrival of the Ship +at St Helena,</p> + +<p>SECTION X. Passage from St Helena to the Western Islands, with a +Description of the Island of Ascension and Fernando Noronha,</p> + +<p>SECTION XI. Arrival of the Ship at the Island of Fayal, a +Description of the Place, and the Return of the Resolution to +England,</p> + +<p><a href="#vocab"><b><i>A VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE SOCIETY +ISLES.</i></b></a></p> + +<p><a href="#book3-3"><b>BOOK III.</b></a></p> + +<p>A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, undertaken by the Command of his +Majesty, for making Discoveries in the Northern Hemisphere; to +determine the Position and Extent of the West Side of North America, +its Distance from Asia, and the Practicability of a Northern Passage +to Europe. Performed under the Direction of Captains Cook, Clerke, +and Gore, in his Majesty's Ships the Resolution and Discovery, in the +Years 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, & 1780.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter3-intro"><b><i>Introduction.</i></b></a></p> + +<p><a href="#chapter3-1"><b><i>CHAPTER I.</i></b></a></p> + +<p>Transactions from the Beginning of the Voyage till our Departure +from New Zealand,</p> + +<p>SECTION I. Various Preparations for the Voyage. Omai's Behaviour +on embarking. Observations for determining the Longitude of +Sheerness, and the North Foreland. Passage of the Resolution from +Deptford to Plymouth. Employments there. Complements of the Crews of +both Ships, and Names of the Officers. Observations to fix the +Longitude of Plymouth. Departure of the Resolution,</p> + +<p>SECTION II. Passage of the Resolution to Teneriffe. Reception +there. Description of Santa Cruz Road. Refreshments to be met with. +Observations for fixing the Longitude of Teneriffe. Some Account of +the Island. Botanical Observations. Cities of Santa Cruz and Laguna, +Agriculture. Air and Climate. Commerce. Inhabitants,</p> + +<p>SECTION III. Departure from Teneriffe. Danger of the Ship near +Bonavista. Isle of Mayo. Port Praya. Precautions against the Rain and +sultry Weather in the Neighbourhood of the Equator. Position of the +Coast of Brazil. Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. Transactions +there. Junction of the Discovery. Mr Anderson's Journey up the +Country. Astronomical Observations. Nautical Remarks on the Passage +from England to the Cape, with regard to the Currents and the +Variation,</p> + +<p>SECTION IV. The two Ships leave the Cape of Good Hope. Two +Islands, named Prince Edward's, seen, and their Appearance described. +Kerguelen's Land visited. Arrival in Christmas Harbour. Occurrences +there. Description of it,</p> + +<p>SECTION V. Departure from Christmas Harbour. Range along the +Coast, to discover its Position and Extent. Several Promontories and +Bays, and a Peninsula, described and named. Danger from Shoals, +Another Harbour and a Sound. Mr Anderson's Observations on the +Natural Productions, Animals, Soil, etc. of Kerguelen's Land,</p> + +<p>SECTION VI. Passage from Kerguelen's to Van Diemen's Land. Arrival +in Adventure Bay. Incidents there. Interviews with the Natives. Their +Persons and Dress described. Account of their Behaviour. Table of the +Longitude, Latitude, and Variation. Mr Anderson's Observations on the +Natural, Productions of the Country, on the Inhabitants, and their +Language,</p> + +<p>SECTION VII. The Passage from Van Diemen's Land to New Zealand. +Employments in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Transactions with the Natives +there. Intelligence about the Massacre of the Adventure's Boat's +Crew. Account of the Chief who headed the Party on that Occasion. Of +the two young Men who embark to attend Omai. Various Remarks on the +Inhabitants. Astronomical and Nautical Observations,</p> + +<p>SECTION VIII. Mr Anderson's Remarks on the Country near Queen +Charlotte's Sound. The Soil. Climate. Weather. Winds. Trees. Plants. +Birds. Fish. Other Animals. Of the Inhabitants. Description of their +Persons. Their Dress. Ornaments. Habitations. Boats. Food and +Cookery. Arts. Weapons. Cruelty to Prisoners. Various Customs. +Specimen of their Language,</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter3-2"><b><i>CHAPTER II.</i></b></a></p> + +<p>From leaving New Zealand to our Arrival at Otaheite, or the +Society Islands.</p> + +<p>SECTION I. Prosecution of the Voyage. Behaviour of the two New +Zealanders on board. Unfavourable Winds. An Island called Mangeea +discovered. The Coast of it examined. Transactions with the Natives. +An Account of their Persons, Dress, and Canoes. Description of the +Island. A Specimen of the Language. Disposition of the +Inhabitants,</p> + +<p>SECTION II. The Discovery of an Island called Wateeoo. Its Coasts +examined.--Visits from the Natives on board the Ships. Mess, Gore, +Burney, and Anderson, with Omai, sent on Shore. Mr Anderson's +Narrative of their Reception. Omai's Expedient to prevent their being +detained. His meeting with some of his Countrymen, and their +distressful Voyage. Farther Account of Wateeoo, and of its +Inhabitants,</p> + +<p>SECTION III. Wenooa-ette, or Otokootaia, visited. Account of that +Island, and of its Produce. Hervey's Island, or Terougge mou Attooa, +found to be inhabited. Transactions with the Natives. Their Persons, +Dress, Language, Canoes. Fruitless Attempt to land there. Reason for +bearing away for the Friendly Islands. Palmerston's Island touched +at. Description of the two Places where the Boats landed. +Refreshments obtained there. Conjectures on the Formation of such low +Islands. Arrival at the Friendly Islands,</p> + +<p>SECTION IV. Intercourse with the Natives of Komango, and other +Islands. Arrival at Annamooka. Transactions there. Feenou, a +principal Chief, from Tongataboo, comes on a Visit. The Manner of his +Reception in the Island, and on board. Instances of the pilfering +Disposition of the Natives. Some Account of Annamooka. The Passage +from it to Hepaee,</p> + +<p>SECTION V. Arrival of the Ships at Hepaee, and friendly Reception +there. Presents and Solemnities on the Occasion. Single Combats with +Clubs. Wrestling and Boxing Matches. Female Combatants. Marines +exercised. A Dance performed by Men. Fireworks exhibited. The +Night-entertainments of Singing and Dancing particularly +described,</p> + +<p>SECTION VI. Description of Lefooga. Its cultivated State. Its +Extent. Transactions there. A female Oculist. Singular Expedients for +shaving off the Hair. The Ships change their Station. A remarkable +Mount and Stone. Description of Hoolaiva. Account of Poulaho, King of +the Friendly Islands. Respectful Manner in which he is treated by his +People. Departure from the Hepaee Islands. Some Account of Kotoo. +Return of the Ships to Annamooka. Poulaho and Feenou meet Arrival at +Tongataboo,</p> + +<p>SECTION VII. Friendly Reception at Tongataboo. Manner of +distributing a baked Hog and Kava to Poulaho's Attendants. The +Observatory, etc. erected. The Village where the Chiefs reside, and +the adjoining Country, described. Interviews with Mareewagee, and +Toobou, and the King's Son. A grand Haiva, or Entertainment of Songs +and Dances, given by Mareewagee. Exhibition of Fireworks. Manner of +Wrestling and Boxing. Distribution of the Cattle. Thefts committed by +the Natives. Poulaho, and the other Chiefs, confined on that Account. +Poulaho's Present and Haiva,</p> + +<p>SECTION VIII. Some of the Officers plundered by the Natives. A +fishing Party. A Visit to Poulaho. A Fiatooka described. Observations +on the Country Entertainments at Poulaho's House. His Mourning +Ceremony. Of the Kava Plant, and the Manner of preparing the Liquor. +Account of Onevy, a little Island. One of the Natives wounded by a +Sentinel. Messrs King and Anderson visit the King's Brother. Their +Entertainment. Another Mourning Ceremony. Manner of passing the +Night. Remarks on the Country they passed through. Preparations made +for Sailing. An Eclipse of the Sun, imperfectly observed. Mr +Anderson's Account of the Island, and its Productions,</p> + +<p>SECTION IX. A grand Solemnity, called Natche, in Honour of the +King's Son, performed. The Procession and other Ceremonies, during +the first Day, described. The Manner of passing the Night at the +King's House. Continuation of the Solemnity the next Day; Conjectures +about the Nature of it. Departure from Tongataboo, and the Arrival at +Eooa. Account of that Island, and Transactions there,</p> + +<p>SECTION X. Advantages derived from visiting the Friendly Islands. +Best Articles for Traffic. Refreshments that may be procured. The +Number of the Islands, and their Names. Keppel's and Boscawen's +Islands belong to them. Account of Vavaoo, of Hamao, of Feejee. +Voyages of the Natives in their Canoes. Difficulty of procuring exact +Information. Persons of the Inhabitants of both Sexes. Their Colour. +Diseases. Their general Character. Manner of wearing their Hair. Of +puncturing their Bodies. Their Clothing and Ornaments. Personal +Cleanliness,</p> + +<p>SECTION XI. Employments of the Women at the Friendly Islands. Of +the Men. Agriculture. Construction of their Houses. Their working +Tools. Cordage and fishing Implements. Musical Instruments. Weapons. +Food and Cookery. Amusements. Marriage. Mourning Ceremonies for the +Dead. Their Divinities. Notions about the Soul, and a future State. +Their Places of Worship. Government. Manner of paying Obeisance to +the King. Account of the Royal Family. Remarks on their Language, and +Specimen of it. Nautical and other Observations,</p> + +<p>A Vocabulary of the Language of the Friendly Isles,</p> + +<p>A Vocabulary of the Language of Atooi, one of the Sandwich +Islands,</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<h2>A GENERAL HISTORY AND COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS.</h2> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<h2><a name="part3" id="part3">PART III.</a></h2> + +<h2><a name="book3-2" id="book3-2">BOOK II.--continued</a></h2> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>AN ACCOUNT OF A VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, AND ROUND THE +WORLD; PERFORMED IN HIS MAJESTY'S SHIPS THE RESOLUTION AND ADVENTURE, +IN THE YEARS 1772, 3, 4, AND 5: WRITTEN BY JAMES COOK, COMMANDER OF +THE RESOLUTION.</p> + +<h2><a name="chapter3-4" id="chapter3-4">CHAPTER +IV.--Continued.</a></h2> + +<p>FROM LEAVING NEW ZEALAND TO OUR RETURN TO ENGLAND.</p> + +<p>SECTION III.</p> + +<p><i>Range from Christmas Sound, round Cape Horn, through Strait Le +Maire, and round Staten Land; with an Account of the Discovery of a +Harbour in that Island, and a Description of the Coasts.</i></p> + +<p>At four o'clock in the morning on the 28th, we began to unmoor, +and at eight weighed, and stood out to sea, with a light breeze at +N.W., which afterwards freshened, and was attended with rain. At +noon, the east point of the sound (Point Nativity) bore N. 1/2 W., +distant one and a half leagues, and St Ildefonzo Isles S.E. 1/2 S., +distant seven leagues. The coast seemed to trend in the direction of +E. by S.; but the weather being very hazy, nothing appeared +distinct.</p> + +<p>We continued to steer S.E. by E. and E.S.E.; with a fresh breeze +at W.N.W., till four o'clock p.m., when we hauled to the south, in +order to have a nearer view of St Ildefonzo Isles. At this time we +were abreast of an inlet, which lies E.S.E, about seven leagues from +the sound; but it must be observed that there are some isles without +this distinction. At the west point of the inlet are two high peaked +hills, and below them, to the east, two round hills, or isles, which +lie in the direction of N.E. and S.W. of each other. An island, or +what appeared to be an island, lay in the entrance; and another but +smaller inlet appeared to the west of this: Indeed the coast appeared +indented and broken as usual.</p> + +<p>At half past five o'clock, the weather clearing up, gave us a good +sight of Ildefonzo Isles. They are a group of islands and rocks above +water, situated about six leagues from the main, and in the latitude +of 55° 53' S., longitude 69° 41' W.</p> + +<p>We now resumed our course to the east, and, at sun-set, the most +advanced land bore S.E. by E. 3/4 E.; and a point, which I judged to +be the west point of Nassau Bay, discovered by the Dutch fleet under +the command of Admiral Hermite in 1624, bore N. 80° E., six +leagues distant. In some charts this point is called False Cape Horn, +as being the southern point of Terra del Fuego. It is situated in +latitude 55° 39' S. From the inlet above-mentioned to this false +cape, the direction of the coast is nearly east, half a point south, +distant fourteen or fifteen leagues.</p> + +<p>At ten o'clock, having shortened sail, we spent the night in +making short boards under the top-sails, and at three next morning +made sail, and steered S.E. by S., with a fresh breeze at W.S.W., the +weather somewhat hazy. At this time the west entrance to Nassau Bay +extended from N. by E. to N.E. 1/2 E., and the south side of +Hermite's Isles, E. by S. At four, Cape Horn, for which we now +steered, bore E. by S. It is known, at a distance, by a high round +hill over it. A point to the W.N.W. shews a surface not unlike this; +but their situations alone will always distinguish the one from the +other.</p> + +<p>At half past seven, we passed this famous <i>cape</i>, and entered +the southern Atlantic ocean. It is the very same point of land I took +for the cape, when I passed it in 1769, which at that time I was +doubtful of. It is the most southern extremity on a group of islands +of unequal extent, lying before Nassau Bay, known by the name of +Hermite Islands, and is situated in the latitude of 55° 58', and +in the longitude of 68° 13' W.; according to the observations +made of it in 1769. But the observations which we had in Christmas +Sound, and reduced to the cape by the watch, and others which we had +afterwards, and reduced back to it by the same means, place it in +67° 19'. It is most probable that a mean between the two, viz. +67° 46', will be nearest the truth. On the N.W. side of the cape +are two peaked rocks, like sugar-loaves: They lie N.W. by N., and +S.E. by S., by compass, of each other. Some other straggling low +rocks lie west of the cape, and one south of it; but they are all +near the shore. From Christmas Sound to Cape Horn the course is E.S.E +1/4 E., distant thirty-one leagues. In the direction of E.N.E., three +leagues from Cape Horn, is a rocky point, which I called Mistaken +Cape, and is the southern point of the easternmost of Hermite Isles. +Between these two capes there seemed to be a passage directly into +Nassau Bay; some small isles were seen in the passage; and the coast, +on the west side, had the appearance of forming good bays or +harbours. In some charts, Cape Horn is laid down as belonging to a +small island. This was neither confirmed, nor can it be contradicted +by us; for several breakers appeared on the coast, both to the east +and west of it; and the hazy weather rendered every object +indistinct. The summits of some of the hills were rocky, but the +sides and vallies seemed covered with a green turf, and wooded in +tufts.[1]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 1: True Cape Horn, distinguishable at a +distance by a round hill of considerable height, is the south point +of Hermite's Isles, a cluster which separates the Atlantic and +Pacific oceans. False Cape Horn lies nine miles to the north-east and +is the west point of Nassau Bay, where James Hermite cast anchor. +Vide vol. x. page 197.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>From Cape Horn we steered E. by N. 1/2 N., which direction carried +us without the rocks that lie off Mistaken Cape. These rocks are +white with the dung of fowls, and vast numbers were seen about them. +After passing them we steered N.E. 1/2 E. and N.E., for Strait Le +Maire, with a view of looking into Success Bay, to see if there were +any traces of the Adventure having been there. At eight o'clock in +the evening, drawing near the strait, we shortened sail, and hauled +the wind. At this time the Sugar-loaf on Terra del Fuego bore N. +33° W.; the point of Success Bay, just open of the cape of the +same name, bearing N. 20° E.; and Staten Land, extending from N. +53° E. to 67° E. Soon after the wind died away, and we had +light airs and calms by turns till near noon the next day, during +which time we were driven by the current over to Staten Land.</p> + +<p>The calm being succeeded by a light breeze at N.N.W., we stood +over for Success Bay, assisted by the currents, which set to the +north. Before this we had hoisted our colours, and fired two guns; +and soon after saw a smoke rise out of the woods, above the south +point of the bay, which I judged was made by the natives, as it was +at the place where they resided when I was here in 1769. As soon as +we got off the bay, I sent Lieutenant Pickersgill to see if any +traces remained of the Adventure having been there lately; and in the +mean time we stood on and off with the ship. At two o'clock, the +current turned and set to the south; and Mr Pickersgill informed me, +when he returned, that it was falling water on shore, which was +contrary to what I had observed when I was here before, for I thought +then that the flood came from the north. Mr Pickersgill saw not the +least signs of any ship having been there lately. I had inscribed our +ship's name on a card, which he nailed to a tree at the place where +the Endeavour watered. This was done with a view of giving Captain +Furneaux some information, in case he should be behind us and put in +here.</p> + +<p>On Mr Pickersgill's landing he was courteously received by several +of the natives, who were clothed in guanicoe and seal skins, and had +on their arms bracelets, made of silver wire, and wrought not unlike +the hilt of a sword, being no doubt the manufacture of some +Europeans. They were the same kind of people we had seen in Christmas +Sound, and, like them, repeated the word pechera on every occasion. +One man spoke much to Mr Pickersgill, pointing first to the ship and +then to the bay, as if he wanted her to come in. Mr Pickersgill said +the bay was full of whales and seals; and we had observed the same in +the strait, especially on the Terra del Fuego side, where the whales, +in particular, are exceedingly numerous.[2]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 2: "Not less than thirty large whales, and some +hundreds of seals, played in the water about us. The whales went +chiefly in couples, from whence we supposed this to be the season +when the sexes meet. Whenever they spouted up the water, or, as the +sailors term it, were seen blowing to windward, the whole ship was +infested with a most detestable, rank, and poisonous stench, which +went off in the space of two or three minutes. Sometimes these huge +animals lay on their backs, and with their long pectoral fins beat +the surface of the sea, which always caused a great noise, equal to +the explosion of a swivel. This kind of play has doubtless given rise +to the mariner's story of a fight between the thrasher and the whale, +of which the former is said to leap out of the water in order to fall +heavily on the latter. Here we had an opportunity of observing the +same exercise many times repeated, and discovered that all the belly +and under side of the fins and tail are of a white colour, whereas +the rest are black. As we happened to be only sixty yards from one of +these animals, we perceived a number of longitudinal furrows, or +wrinkles, on its belly, from whence we concluded it was the species +by Linnaeus named <i>balaena boops</i>. Besides flapping their fins +in the water, these unwieldy animals, of forty feet in length, and +not less than ten feet in diameter, sometimes fairly leaped into the +air, and dropped down again with a heavy fall, which made the water +foam all round them. The prodigious quantity of power required to +raise such a vast creature out of the water is astonishing; and their +peculiar economy cannot but give room to many +reflections."--G.F.]</blockquote> + +<p>As soon as the boat was hoisted in, which, was not till near six +o'clock, we made sail to the east, with a fine breeze at north. For +since we had explored the south coast of Terra del Fuego, I resolved +to do the same by Staten Land, which I believed to have been as +little known as the former. At nine o'clock the wind freshening, and +veering to N.W., we tacked, and stood to S.W., in order to spend the +night; which proved none of the best, being stormy and hazy, with +rain.</p> + +<p>Next morning, at three o'clock, we bore up for the east end of +Staten Land, which, at half past four, bore S. 60° E., the west +end S. 2° E., and the land of Terra del Fuego S. 40° W. Soon +after I had taken these bearings, the land was again obscured in a +thick haze, and we were obliged to make way, as it were, in the dark; +for it was but now and then we got a sight of the coast. As we +advanced to the east, we perceived several islands, of unequal +extent, lying off the land. There seemed to be a clear passage +between the easternmost, and the one next to it, to the west. I would +gladly have gone through this passage, and anchored under one of the +islands, to have waited for better weather, for on sounding we found +only twenty-nine fathoms water; but when I considered that this was +running to leeward in the dark, I chose to keep without the islands, +and accordingly hauled off to the north. At eight o'clock we were +abreast of the most eastern isle, distant from it about two miles, +and had the same depth of water as before. I now shortened sail to +the three top-sails, to wait for clear weather; for the fog was so +thick that we could see no other land than this island. After waiting +an hour, and the weather not clearing, we bore up and hauled round +the east end of the island, for the sake of smooth water and +anchorage, if it should be necessary. In hauling round, we found a +strong race of a current, like unto broken water; but we had no less +than nineteen fathoms. We also saw on the island abundance of seals +and birds. This was a temptation too great for people in our +situation to withstand, to whom fresh provisions of any kind were +acceptable; and determined me to anchor, in order that we might taste +of what we now only saw at a distance. At length, after making a few +boards, fishing, as it were, for the best ground, we anchored in +twenty-one fathoms water, a stony bottom, about a mile from the +island, which extended from N. 18° E. to N. 55° 1/2 W.; and +soon after, the weather clearing up, we saw Cape St John, or the east +end of Staten Land, bearing S. 76° E., distant four leagues. We +were sheltered from the south wind by Staten Land, and from the north +wind by the island; the other isles lay to the west, and secured us +from that wind; but beside being open to the N.E. and E., we also lay +exposed to the N.N.W. winds. This might have been avoided by +anchoring more to the west, but I made choice of my situation for two +reasons; first, to be near the island we intended to land upon, and, +secondly, to be able to get to sea with any wind.</p> + +<p>After dinner we hoisted out three boats, and landed with a large +party of men; some to kill seals, others to catch or kill birds, +fish, or what came in our way. To find the former it mattered not +where we landed, for the whole shore was covered with them; and by +the noise they made one would have thought the island was stocked +with cows and calves. On landing we found they were a different +animal from seals, but in shape and motion exactly resembling them. +We called them lions, on account of the great resemblance the male +has to that beast.[3] Here were also the same kind of seals which we +found in New Zealand, generally known by the name of sea-bears; at +least we gave them that name.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 3: The resemblance had been noticed by earlier +voyagers, and procured for these animals the same name. This is +mentioned by Mr G.F., who refers to Francis Petty in Hackluyt's +collection, Sir Richard Hawkins, Sir John Nasborough and Labbe, in +Des Brosses' Nav. aux Terres Australes. The description which the +same gentleman has given of these remarkable creatures is too +interesting (though Cook's account afterwards given might suffice) to +be omitted. "The old males were, in general, very fat, and measured +from ten to twelve feet in length; the females were more slender, and +from six to eight feet long. The weight of the largest male amounts +to 1200 or 1500 lb., for one of a middle size weighed 550 lb. after +the skin, entrails, and blubber were taken off. The head of the male +has really some resemblance to a lion's head, and the colour is +likewise very nearly the same, being only a darker hue of tawny. The +long shaggy hair on the neck and throat of the male, beginning at the +back of the head, bears a strong resemblance to a mane; and is hard +and coarse to the touch; all the rest of the body is covered with +short hairs, which lie very close to the skin, and form a smooth +glossy coat. The lioness is perfectly smooth all over the body; but +both sexes are formed alike with regard to the feet, or rather fins. +Those fins, which originate near the breast, are large flat pieces of +a black coriaceous membrane, which have only some small indistinct +vestiges of nails on their middle. The hinder fins are rather more +like feet, being black membranes divided into five long toes, with a +thin thong, or membrane, projecting far beyond the nails, which are +very small. With these nails, however, we have seen them scratch all +parts of their body. The tail is excessively short, and hid between +the hind feet or fins, which grow close together. The whole hind +quarters are very round, being covered with an amazing quantity of +fat. The noise which all the animals of this kind made together was +various, and sometimes stunned our ears. The old males snort and roar +like mad bulls or lions; the females bleat exactly like calves, and +the young cubs like lambs. Of the young we saw great numbers on the +beaches; and one of the females being knocked down with a club, +littered in the same instant. The sea-lions live together in numerous +herds. The oldest and fattest males lie apart, each having chosen a +large stone, which none of the rest dares approach without engaging +in a furious battle. We have often seen them seize each other with a +degree of rage which is not to be described; and many of them had +deep gashes on their backs, which they had received in the wars. The +younger active sea-lions, with all the females and the cubs, lie +together. They commonly waited the approach of our people, but as +soon as some of the herd were killed, the rest took flight with great +precipitation, some females carrying off a cub in their mouths, +whilst many were so terrified as to leave them behind. When left to +themselves, they were often seen caressing each other in the most +tender manner, and their snouts often met together, as if they were +kissing. They come ashore on these uninhabited spots to breed; they +do not, however, breed during their stay on shore, which sometimes +lasts several weeks, but grow lean, and swallow a considerable +quantity of stones to keep their stomach distended. We were surprised +to find the stomachs of many of these animals entirely empty, and of +others filled with ten or a dozen round heavy stones, each of the +size of two fists."--Professor Steller's description of these +animals, which he found at Bering's Isle, near Kamtchatka, +corresponds perfectly with that now given, and is referred to by Mr +G.F. Pernetty, Bougainville, and others also speak of them as met +with in their voyages.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They were, in general, so tame, or rather stupid, as to suffer us +to come near enough to knock them down with sticks; but the large +ones we shot, not thinking it safe to approach them. We also found on +the island abundance of penguins and shags; and the latter had young +ones almost fledged, and just to our taste. Here were geese and +ducks, but not many; birds of prey, and a few small birds. In the +evening we returned on board, our boats well laden with one thing or +other.[4]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 4: "Having made some havock among the +sea-lions, we walked upon the summit of the island, which was nearly +level, but covered with innumerable little mounds of earth, on each +of which grew a large tuft of grass (<i>dactylis glomerata</i>). The +intervals between these tufts were very muddy and dirty, which +obliged us to leap from one tuft to another. We soon discovered that +another kind of seals occupied this part of the island, and caused +the mud by coming out of the sea. These were no other than the +sea-bears which we had already seen at Dusky Bay, but which were here +infinitely more numerous, and grown to a much larger size, equalling +that assigned to them by Steller. They are, however, far inferior to +the sea-lions, the males being never above eight or nine feet long, +and thick in proportion. Their hair is dark-brown, minutely sprinkled +with grey, and much longer on the whole body than that of the +sea-lion, but does not form a mane. The general outline of the body, +and the shape of the fins, are exactly the same. They were more +fierce towards us, and their females commonly died in defence of +their young. We observed on another occasion, that these two species, +though sometimes encamped on the same beach, always kept at a great +distance asunder, and had no communication. A strong rank stench is +common to them, as well as to all other seals; a circumstance as well +known to the ancients, as their inactivity and drowsiness whilst they +lie on shore-- + +<pre> +Web-footed seals forsake the whitening waves, +And sleep in herds, exhaling nauseous stench. + +HOMER. +</pre> + +<p>Great numbers of a species of vultures, commonly called carrion +crows by the sailors (<i>vultur aura</i>), were seen upon this +island, and probably feed on young seal-cubs, which either die in the +birth, or which they take an opportunity to seize upon. Besides them +we also found a new species of hawks, and several geese of the sort +which had so well furnished out our Christmas entertainment. Here we +likewise saw a few penguins, of a species which we had not met with +before, some large petrels of the size of albatrosses, being the same +species which the Spaniards name <i>que-branta-huessos</i>, or the +bone-breakers, and some shags."--G.F.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>Next day, being January the 1st, 1775, finding that nothing was +wanting but a good harbour to make this a tolerable place for ships +to refresh at, whom chance or design, might bring hither, I sent Mr +Gilbert over to Staten Land in the cutter to look for one. +Appearances promised success in a place opposite the ship. I also +sent two other boats for the lions, etc. we had killed the preceding +day; and soon after I went myself, and observed the sun's meridian +altitude at the N.E. end of the island, which gave the latitude +54° 40' 5" S. After shooting a few geese, some other birds, and +plentifully supplying ourselves with young shags, we returned on +board, laden with sea-lions, sea-bears, etc. The old lions and bears +were killed chiefly for the sake of their blubber, or fat, to make +oil of; for, except their haslets, which were tolerable, the flesh +was too rank to be eaten with any degree of relish. But the young +cubs were very palateable, and even the flesh of some of the old +lionesses was not much amiss, but that of the old males was +abominable. In the afternoon I sent some people on shore to skin and +cut off the fat of those which yet remained dead on shore, for we had +already more carcases on board than necessary; and I went myself, in +another boat, to collect birds. About ten o'clock Mr Gilbert returned +from Staten Land, where he found a good port, situated three leagues +to the westward of Cape St John, and in the direction of north, a +little easterly, from the N.E. end of the eastern island. It may be +known by some small islands lying in the entrance. The channel, which +is on the east side of these islands, is half a mile broad. The +course is in S.W. by S., turning gradually to W. by S. and W. The +harbour lies nearly in this last direction; is almost two miles in +length; in some places near a mile broad; and hath in it from fifty +to ten fathoms water, a bottom of mud and sand. Its shores are +covered with wood fit for fuel; and in it are several streams of +fresh water. On the islands were sea-lions, etc. and such an +innumerable quantity of gulls as to darken the air when disturbed, +and almost to suffocate our people with their dung. This they seemed +to void in a way of defence, and it stunk worse than assafoetida, or +what is commonly called devil's dung. Our people saw several geese, +ducks, and race-horses, which is also a kind of duck. The day on +which this port was discovered occasioned my calling it New-Year's +Harbour. It would be more convenient for ships bound to the west, or +round Cape Horn, if its situation would permit them to put to sea +with an easterly and northerly wind. This inconvenience, however, is +of little consequence, since these winds are never known to be of +long duration. The southerly and westerly are the prevailing winds, +so that a ship never can be detained long in this port.[5]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 5: "The largest of the New-Year's Islands, as +we called them, and which we now left, is about six leagues in +circuit, and that under which we lay at anchor, between three and +four leagues. They are excellent places of refreshment for a ship's +crew bound on expeditions like ours; for though the flesh of +sea-lions and penguins is not the most palateable food, yet it is +infinitely more salubrious than salt meat; and by searching the +different islands, it is not improbable that a sufficient quantity of +celery and scurvy-grass might be found to supply the whole crew, +especially as we saw both the species on our excursions. Our seamen +lived several days on young shags and penguins, of which they found +the former extremely palateable, comparing them to young pullets. +They likewise roasted several little cubs of seals, but there was a +degree of softness in the meat which made it disgustful. The flesh of +young, but full-grown sea-bears, was greatly preferable, and tasted +like coarse and bad beef; but that of the old sea-lions and bears was +so rank and offensive, that we could not touch +it."--G.F.]</blockquote> + +<p>As we could not sail in the morning of the 2d for want of wind, I +sent a party of men on shore to the island, on the same duty as +before. Towards noon we got a fresh breeze at west; but it came too +late, and I resolved to wait till the next morning, when, at four +o'clock, we weighed, with a fresh gale at N.W. by W., and stood for +Cape St John, which, at half past six, bore N. by E., distant four or +five miles. This cape, being the eastern point of Staten Land, a +description of it is unnecessary. It may, however, not be amiss to +say, that it is a rock of a considerable height, situated in the +latitude of 54° 46' S., longitude 63° 47' W., with a rocky +islet lying close under the north part of it. To the westward of the +cape, about five or six miles, is an inlet, which seemed to divide +the land, that is, to communicate with the sea to the south; and +between this inlet and the cape is a bay, but I cannot say of what +depth. In sailing round the cape we met with a very strong current +from the south: It made a race which looked like breakers; and it was +as much as we could do, with a strong gale, to make head against +it.[6]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 6: Captain Krusenstern, as has been noticed in +vol. 12, page 413, verified Cook's longitude of Cape St John, having +found it to agree exactly with that pointed out by the watches on +board his consort the Neva, which differed but a few minutes from +those in his own vessel.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>After getting round the cape, I hauled up along the south coast, +and as soon as we had brought the wind to blow off the land, it came +upon us in such heavy squalls as obliged us to double-reef our +top-sails. It afterwards fell, by little and little, and at noon +ended in a calm. At this time Cape St John bore N. 20° E., +distant three and a half leagues; Cape St Bartholomew, or the S.W. +point of Staten Land, S. 83° W.; two high detached rocks N. +80° W.; and the place where the land seemed to be divided, which +had the same appearance on this side, bore N. 15° W. three +leagues distant. Latitude observed 54° 56'. In this situation we +sounded, but had no bottom with a line of 120 fathoms. The calm was +of very short duration, a breeze presently springing up at N.W.; but +it was too faint to make head against the current, and we drove with +it back to the N.N.E. At four o'clock the wind veered, at once, to S. +by E., and blew in squalls attended with rain. Two hours after, the +squalls and rain subsided, and the wind returning back to the west, +blew a gentle gale. All this time the current set us to the north, so +that, at eight o'clock, Cape St John bore W.N.W., distant about seven +leagues. I now gave over plying, and steered S.E., with a resolution +to leave the land; judging it to be sufficiently explored to answer +the most general purposes of navigation and geography.[7]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 7: The very intelligent officer mentioned in +the preceding note, seems to have been very materially benefited by +the observations of Captain Cook, in navigating this quarter, and +does not hesitate to avow his obligations. An instance of this is +recorded in our account of Byron's voyage, vol. 12, p. 74, which +refers to a passage in the next section as to the currents losing +their force at ten or twelve leagues from land.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION IV.</p> + +<p><i>Observations, geographical and nautical, with an Account of the +Islands near Staten Land, and the Animals found in them</i>.[8]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 8: It has been thought advisable to retain this +section verbatim, although the references it makes to Captain Cook's +chart can scarcely be understood without that accompaniment, and +several observations of another sort which it contains, are given +elsewhere. In justice to the memory of Cook, it was resolved to +preserve the whole of his relation, at the risk of a very trivial +repetition, which the reader, it is believed, will be little disposed +to resent.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The chart will very accurately shew the direction, extent, and +position of the coast, along which I have sailed, either in this or +my former voyage. The latitudes have been determined by the sun's +meridian altitude, which we were so fortunate as to obtain every day, +except the one we sailed from Christmas Sound, which was of no +consequence, as its latitude was known before. The longitudes have +been settled by lunar observations, as is already mentioned. I have +taken 67° 46' for the longitude of Cape Horn. From this meridian +the longitudes of all the other parts are deduced by the watch, by +which the extent of the whole mast be determined to a few miles; and +whatever errors there may be in longitude, must be general. But I +think it highly probable that the longitude is determined to within a +quarter of a degree. Thus the extent of Terra del Fuego from east to +west, and consequently that of the straits of Magalhaens, will be +found less than most navigators have made it.</p> + +<p>In order to illustrate this and to shew the situations of the +neighbouring lands, and, by this means, make the chart of more +general use, I have extended it down to 47° of latitude. But I am +only answerable for the accuracy of such parts as I have explored +myself. In laying down the rest I had recourse to the following +authorities.</p> + +<p>The longitude of Cape Virgin Mary, which is the most essential +point, as it determines the length of the straits of Magalhaens, is +deduced from Lord Anson, who made 2° 30' difference of longitude +between it and the Strait Le Maire. Now as the latter lies in 65° +22', Cape Virgin-Mary must lie in: 67° 52', which is the +longitude I have assigned to it, and which, I have reason to think, +cannot be far from the truth.</p> + +<p>The strait of Magalhaens, and the east coast of Patagonia, are +laid down from the observations made by the late English and French +navigators.</p> + +<p>The position of the west coast of America, from Cape Victory +northward, I have taken from the discoveries of <i>Sarmiento</i>, a +Spanish navigator, communicated to me by Mr Stuart, F.R.S.</p> + +<p>Falkland Islands are copied from a sketch taken from Captain +M'Bride, who circumnavigated them some years ago in his majesty's +ship Jason; and their distance from the main is agreeable to the run +of the Dolphin, under the command of Commodore Byron, from Cape +Virgin Mary to Port Egmont, and from Port Egmont to Port Desire, both +of which runs were made in a few days; consequently no material +errors could happen.</p> + +<p>The S.W. coast of Terra del Fuego, with respect to inlets, +islands, etc. may be compared to the coast of Norway; for I doubt if +there be an extent of three leagues where there is not an inlet or +harbour which will receive and shelter the largest shipping. The +worst is, that till these inlets are better known, one has, as it +were, to fish for anchorage. There are several lurking rocks on the +coast, but happily none of them lie far from land, the approach to +which may be known by sounding, supposing the weather so obscure that +you cannot see it. For to judge of the whole by the parts we have +sounded, it is more than probable that there are soundings all along +the coast, and for several leagues out to sea. Upon the whole, this +is by no means the dangerous coast it has been represented.</p> + +<p>Staten Land lies near E. by N. and W. by S., and is ten leagues +long in that direction, and no where above three or four leagues +broad. The coast is rocky, much indented, and seemed to form several +bays or inlets. It shews a surface of craggy hills which spire up to +a vast height, especially near the west end. Except the craggy +summits of the hills, the greatest part was covered with trees and +shrubs, or some sort of herbage, and there was little or no snow on +it. The currents between Cape Deseada and Cape Horn set from west to +east, that is, in the same direction as the coast; but they are by no +means considerable. To the east of the cape their strength is much +increased, and their direction is N.E. towards Staten Land. They are +rapid in Strait Le Maire and along the south coast of Staten Land, +and set like a torrent round Cape St John; where they take a N.W. +direction, and continue to run very strong both within and without +New Year's Isles. While we lay at anchor within this island, I +observed that the current was strongest during the flood; and that on +the ebb its strength was so much impaired, that the ship would +sometimes ride head to the wind when it was at W. and W.N.W. This is +only to be understood of the place where the ship lay at anchor, for +at the very time we had a strong current setting to the westward, Mr +Gilbert found one of equal strength near the coast of Staten Land +setting to the eastward, though probably this was an eddy current or +tide.</p> + +<p>If the tides are regulated by the moon, it is high-water by the +shore at this place on the days of the new and full moon, about four +o'clock. The perpendicular rise and fall is very inconsiderable, not +exceeding four feet at most. In Christmas Sound it is high-water at +half past two o'clock on the days of the full and change, and Mr +Wales observed it to rise and fall on a perpendicular three feet six +inches; but this was during the neap tides, consequently the spring +tides must rise higher. To give such an account of the tides and +currents on these coasts as navigators might depend on, would require +a multitude of observations, and in different places, the making of +which would be a work of time. I confess myself unprovided with +materials for such a task; and believe that the less I say on this +subject the fewer mistakes I shall make. But I think I have been able +to observe, that in Strait Le Maire the southerly tide or current, be +it flood or ebb, begins to act on the days of new and full moon about +four o'clock, which remark may be of use to ships who pass the +strait.</p> + +<p>Were I bound round Cape Horn to the west, and not in want of wood +or water, or any other thing that might make it necessary to put into +port, I would not come near the land at all. For by keeping out at +sea you avoid the currents, which, I am satisfied, lose their force +at ten or twelve leagues from land; and at a greater distance, there +is none.</p> + +<p>During the time we were upon the coast we had more calms than +storms, and the winds so variable, that I question if a passage might +not have been made from east to west in as short a time as from west +to east; nor did we experience any cold weather. The mercury in the +thermometer at noon was never below 46°; and while we lay in +Christmas Sound it was generally above temperate. At this place the +variation was 23° 30' E.; a few leagues to the S. W. of Strait Le +Maire it was 24°; and at anchor, within New Year's Isles, it was +24° 20' E.</p> + +<p>These isles are, in general, so unlike Staten Land, especially the +one on which we landed, that it deserves a particular description. It +shews a surface of equal height, and elevated about thirty or forty +feet above the sea, from which it is defended by a rocky coast. The +inner part of the isle is covered with a sort of sword-grass, very +green, and of a great length. It grows on little hillocks of two or +three feet in diameter, and as many or more in height, in large +tufts, which seemed to be composed of the roots of the plant matted +together. Among these hillocks are a vast number of paths made by +sea-bears and penguins, by which they retire into the centre of the +isle. It is, nevertheless, exceedingly bad travelling; for these +paths are so dirty that one is sometimes up to the knees in mire. +Besides this plant, there are a few other grasses, a kind of heath, +and some celery. The whole surface is moist and wet, and on the coast +are several small streams of water. The sword-grass, as I call it, +seems to be the same that grows in Falkland Isles, described by +Bougainville as a kind of <i>gladiolus</i>, or rather a species of +<i>gramen</i>[9] and named by Pernety corn-flags.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 9: See English Translation of Bougainville, p. +51.]</blockquote> + +<p>The animals found on this little spot are sea-lions, sea-bears, a +variety of oceanic, and some land-birds. The sea-lion is pretty well +described by Pernety, though those we saw here have not such +fore-feet or fins as that he has given a plate of, but such fins as +that which he calls the sea-wolf. Nor did we see any of the size he +speaks of; the largest not being more than twelve or fourteen feet in +length, and perhaps eight or ten in circumference. They are not of +that kind described under the same name by Lord Anson; but, for aught +I know, these would more properly deserve that appellation: The long +hair, with which the back of the head, the neck and shoulders, are +covered, giving them greatly the air and appearance of a lion. The +other part of the body is covered with short hair, little longer than +that of a cow or a horse, and the whole is a dark-brown. The female +is not half so big as the male, and is covered with a short hair of +an ash or light-dun colour. They live, as it were, in herds, on the +rocks, and near the sea-shore. As this was the time for engendering +as well as bringing forth their young, we have seen a male with +twenty or thirty females about him, and always very attentive to keep +them all to himself, and beating off every other male who attempted +to come into his flock. Others again had a less number; some no more +than one or two; and here and there we have seen one lying growling +in a retired, place, alone, and suffering neither males nor females +to approach him: We judged these were old and superannuated.</p> + +<p>The sea-bears are not so large, by far, as the lions, but rather +larger than a common seal. They have none of that long hair which +distinguishes the lion. Theirs is all of an equal length, and finer +than that of the lion, something like an otter's, and the general +colour is that of an iron-grey. This is the kind which the French +call sea-wolfs, and the English seals; they are, however, different +from the seals we have in Europe and North America. The lions may, +too, without any great impropriety, be called over-grown seals; for +they are all of the same species. It was not at all dangerous to go +among them, for they either fled or lay still. The only danger was in +going between them and the sea; for if they took fright at any thing, +they would come down in such numbers, that, if you could not get out +of their way, you would be run over. Sometimes, when we came suddenly +upon them, or waked them out of their sleep, (for they are a sluggish +sleepy animal), they would raise up their heads; snort and snarl, and +look as fierce as if they meant to devour us; but as we advanced upon +them they always run away, so that they are downright bullies.</p> + +<p>The penguin is an amphibious bird, so well known to most people, +that I shall only observe, they are here in prodigious numbers, so +that we could knock down as many as we pleased with a stick. I cannot +say they are good eating. I have indeed made several good meals of +them, but it was for want of better victuals. They either do not +breed here, or else this was not the season; for we saw neither eggs +nor young ones.</p> + +<p>Shags breed here in vast numbers; and we carried on board not a +few, as they are very good eating. They take certain spots to +themselves, and build their nests near the edge of the cliffs on +little hillocks, which are either those of the sword-grass, or else +they are made by the shags building on them from year to year. There +is another sort rather smaller than these, which breed in the cliffs +of rocks.</p> + +<p>The geese are of the same sort we found in Christmas Sound; we saw +but few, and some had young ones. Mr Forster shot one which was +different from these, being larger, with a grey plumage, and black +feet. The others make a noise exactly like a duck. Here were ducks, +but not many; and several of that sort which we called race-horses. +We shot some, and found them to weigh twenty-nine or thirty pounds; +those who eat of them said they were very good.</p> + +<p>The oceanic birds were gulls, terns, Port Egmont hens, and a large +brown bird, of the size of an albatross, which Pernety calls +quebrantahuessas. We called them Mother Carey's geese, and found them +pretty good eating; The land-birds were eagles, or hawks, bald-headed +vultures, or what our seamen called turkey-buzzards, thrushes, and a +few other small birds.</p> + +<p>Our naturalists found two new species of birds. The one is about +the size of a pigeon, the plumage as white as milk. They feed +along-shore, probably on shell-fish and carrion, for they have a very +disagreeable smell. When we first saw these birds we thought they +were the snow-peterel, but the moment they were in our possession the +mistake was discovered; for they resemble them in nothing but size +and colour. These are not webb-footed. The other sort is a species of +curlews nearly as big as a heron. It has a variegated plumage, the +principal colours whereof are light-grey, and a long crooked +bill.</p> + +<p>I had almost forgot to mention that there are sea-pies, or what we +called, when in New Zealand, curlews; but we only saw a few +straggling pairs. It may not be amiss to observe, that the shags are +the same bird which Bougainville calls saw-bills; but he is mistaken +in saying that the quebrantahuessas are their enemies; for this bird +is of the peterel tribe, feeds wholly on fish, and is to be found in +all the high southern latitudes.</p> + +<p>It is amazing to see how the different animals which inhabit this +little spot are mutually reconciled. They seem to have entered into a +league not to disturb each other's tranquillity. The sea-lions occupy +most of the sea-coast; the sea-bears take up their abode in the isle; +the shags have post in the highest cliffs; the penguins fix their +quarters where there is the most easy communication to and from the +sea; and the other birds choose more retired places. We have seen all +these animals mix together, like domestic cattle and poultry in a +farm-yard, without one attempting to molest the other. Nay, I have +often observed the eagles and vultures sitting on the hillocks among +the shags, without the latter, either young or old, being disturbed +at their presence. It may be asked how these birds of prey live? I +suppose on the carcases of seals and birds which die by various +causes; and probably not few, as they are so numerous.</p> + +<p>This very imperfect account is written more with a view to assist +my own memory than to give information to others. I am neither a +botanist nor a naturalist; and have not words to describe the +productions of nature, either in the one branch of knowledge or the +other.</p> + +<p>SECTION V.</p> + +<p><i>Proceedings after leaving Staten Island, with an Account of the +Discovery of the Isle of Georgia, and a Description of it.</i></p> + +<p>Having left the land in the evening of the 3d, as before +mentioned, we saw it again next morning, at three o'clock, bearing +west. Wind continued to blow a steady fresh breeze till six p.m., +when it shifted in a heavy squall to S.W., which came so suddenly +upon us, that we had not time to take in the sails, and was the +occasion of carrying away a top-gallant mast, a studding-sail boom, +and a fore studding-sail. The squall ended in a heavy shower of rain, +but the wind remained at S.W. Our course was S.E., with a view of +discovering that extensive coast laid down by Mr Dalrymple in his +chart, in which is the gulph of St Sebastian. I designed to make the +western point of that gulph, in order to have all the other parts +before me. Indeed I had some doubt of the existence of such a coast; +and this appeared to me the best route for clearing it up, and for +exploring the southern part of this ocean.</p> + +<p>On the 5th, fresh gales, and wet and cloudy weather. At noon +observed in 57° 9', latitude made from Cape St John, 5° 2' E. +At six o'clock p.m., being in the latitude 57° 21', and in +longitude 57° 45' W., the variation was 21° 28' E.</p> + +<p>At eight o'clock in the evening of the 6th, being then in the +latitude of 58° 9' S., longitude 53° 14' W., we close-reefed +our top-sails, and hauled to the north, with a very strong gale at +west, attended with a thick haze and sleet. The situation just +mentioned is nearly the same that Mr Dalrymple assigns for the S.W. +point of the gulph of St Sebastian. But as we saw neither land, nor +signs of land, I was the more doubtful of its existence, and was +fearful that, by keeping to the south, I might miss the land said to +be discovered by La Roche in 1675, and by the ship Lion in 1756, +which Mr Dalrymple places in 54° 30' latitude, and 45° of +longitude; but on looking over D'Anville's chart, I found it laid +down 9° or 10° more to the west; this difference of situation +being to me a sign of the uncertainty of both accounts, determined me +to get into the parallel as soon as possible, and was the reason of +my hauling to the north at this time.</p> + +<p>Towards the morning of the 7th the gale abated, the weather +cleared up, and the wind veered to the W.S.W., where it continued +till midnight, after which it veered to N.W. Being at this time in +the latitude of 56° 4' S., longitude 53° 36' W., we sounded, +but found no bottom with a line of one hundred and thirty fathoms. I +still kept the wind on the larboard-tack, having a gentle breeze and +pleasant weather. On the 8th, at noon, a bed of sea-weed passed the +ship. In the afternoon, in latitude 55° 4', longitude 51° 43' +W., the variation was 20° 4' E.</p> + +<p>On the 9th, wind at N.E., attended with thick hazy weather; saw a +seal, and a piece of sea-weed. At noon, latitude 55° 12' S., +longitude 50° 15' W., the wind and weather continuing the same +till towards midnight, when the latter cleared up, and the former +veered to west, and blew a gentle gale. We continued to ply till two +o'clock the next morning, when we bore away east, and at eight +E.N.E.; at noon, observed in latitude 54° 35' S., longitude +47° 56' W., a great many albatrosses and blue peterels about the +ship. I now steered east, and the next morning, in the latitude of +54° 38', longitude 45° 10' W., the variation was 19° 25' +E. In the afternoon saw several penguins, and some pieces of +weed.</p> + +<p>Having spent the night lying-to, on the 12th, at day-break, we +bore away, and steered east northerly, with a fine fresh breeze at +W.S.W.; at noon observed in latitude 54° 28' S., longitude in +42° 8' W.; that is, near 3° E. of the situation in which Mr +Dalrymple places the N.E. point of the gulph of St Sebastian; but we +had no other signs of land than seeing a seal and a few penguins; on +the contrary, we had a swell from E.S.E., which would hardly have +been, if any extensive track of land lay in that direction. In the +evening the gale abated, and at midnight it fell calm.</p> + +<p>The calm, attended by a thick fog, continued till six next +morning, when we got a wind at east, but the fog still prevailed. We +stood to the south till noon, when, being in the latitude of 55° +7', we tacked and stretched to the north with a fresh breeze at E. by +S. and E.S.E., cloudy weather; saw several penguins and a +snow-peterel, which we looked on to be signs of the vicinity of ice. +The air too was much colder than we had felt it since we left New +Zealand. In the afternoon the wind veered to the S.E., and in the +night to S.S.E., and blew fresh, with which we stood to the N.E.</p> + +<p>At nine o'clock the next morning we saw an island of ice, as we +then thought, but at noon were doubtful whether it was ice or land. +At this time it bore E. 3/4 S., distant thirteen leagues; our +latitude was 53° 56' 1/2, longitude 39° 24' W.; several +penguins, small divers, a snow-peterel, and a vast number of blue +peterels about the ship. We had but little wind all the morning, and +at two p.m. it fell calm. It was now no longer doubted that it was +land, and not ice, which we had in sight. It was, however, in a +manner wholly covered with snow. We were farther confirmed in our +judgement of its being land, by finding soundings at one hundred and +seventy-five fathoms, a muddy bottom. The land at this time bore E. +by S., about twelve leagues distant. At six o'clock the calm was +succeeded by a breeze at N.E., with which we stood to S.E. At first +it blew a gentle gale; but afterwards increased so as to bring us +under double-reefed top-sails, and was attended with snow and +sleet.</p> + +<p>We continued to stand to the S.E. till seven in the morning on the +15th, when the wind veering to the S.E., we tacked and stood to the +north. A little before we tacked, we saw the land bearing E. by N. At +noon the mercury in the thermometer was at 35° 1/4. The wind blew +in squalls, attended with snow and sleet, and we had a great sea to +encounter. At a lee-lurch which the ship took, Mr Wales observed her +to lie down 42°. At half past four p.m. we took in the top-sails, +got down top-gallant yards, wore the ship, and stood to the S.W., +under two courses. At midnight the storm abated, so that we could +carry the top-sails double-reefed.</p> + +<p>At four in the morning of the 16th we wore and stood to the east, +with the wind at S.S.E., a moderate breeze, and fair; at eight +o'clock saw the land extending from E. by N. to N.E. by N.; loosed a +reef out of each top-sail, got top-gallant yards across, and set the +sails. At noon observed in latitude 54° 25' 1/2, longitude +38° 18' W. In this situation we had one hundred and ten fathoms +water; and the land extended from N. 1/2 W. to E., eight leagues +distant. The northern extreme was the same that we first discovered, +and it proved to be an island, which obtained the name of Willis's +Island, after the person who first saw it.</p> + +<p>At this time we had a great swell from the south, an indication +that no land was near us in that direction; nevertheless the vast +quantity of snow on that in sight induced us to think it was +extensive, and I chose to begin with exploring the northern coast. +With this view we bore up for Willis's Island, all sails set, having +a fine gale at S.S.W. As we advanced to the north, we perceived +another isle lying east of Willis's, and between it and the main. +Seeing there was a clear passage between the two isles, we steered +for it, and at five o'clock, being in the middle of it, we found it +about two miles broad.</p> + +<p>Willis's Isle is an high rock of no great extent, near to which +are some rocky islets. It is situated in the latitude of 54° S., +longitude 38° 23' W. The other isle, which obtained the name of +Bird Isle, on account of the vast number that were upon it, is not so +high, but of greater extent, and is close to the N.E. point of the +main land, which I called Cape North.</p> + +<p>The S.E. coast of this land, as far as we saw it, lies in the +direction of S. 50° E., and N. 50° W. It seemed to form +several bays or inlets; and we observed huge masses of snow, or ice, +in the bottoms of them, especially in one which lies ten miles to the +S.S.E. of Bird Isle.</p> + +<p>After getting through the passage, we found the north coast +trended E. by N., for about nine miles; and then east and +east-southerly to Cape Buller, which is eleven miles more. We ranged +the coast, at one league distance, till near ten o'clock, when we +brought-to for the night, and on sounding found fifty fathoms, a +muddy bottom.</p> + +<p>At two o'clock in the morning of the 17th we made sail in for the +land, with a fine breeze at S.W.; at four, Willis's Isle bore W. by +S., distant thirty-two miles; Cape Buller, to the west of which lie +some rocky islets, bore S.W. by W.; and the most advanced point of +land to the east, S. 63° E. We now steered along shore, at the +distance of four or five miles, till seven o'clock, when, seeing the +appearance of an inlet, we hauled in for it. As soon as we drew near +the shore, having hoisted out a boat, I embarked in it, accompanied +by Mr Forster and his party, with a view of reconnoitring the bay +before we ventured in with the ship. When we put off from her, which +was about four miles from the shore, we had forty fathoms water. I +continued to sound as I went farther in, but found no bottom with a +line of thirty-four fathoms, which was the length of that I had in +the boat, and which also proved too short to sound the bay, so far as +I went up it. I observed it to lie in S.W. by S. about two leagues, +about two miles broad, well sheltered from all winds; and I judged +there might be good anchorage before some sandy beaches which are on +each side, and likewise near a low flat isle, towards the head of the +bay. As I had come to a resolution not to bring the ship in, I did +not think it worth my while to go and examine these places; for it +did not seem probable that any one would ever be benefited by the +discovery. I landed at three different places, displayed our colours, +and took possession of the country in his majesty's name, under a +discharge of small arms.</p> + +<p>I judged that the tide rises about four or five feet, and that it +is high water on the full and change days about eleven o'clock.</p> + +<p>The head of the bay, as well as two places on each side, was +terminated by perpendicular ice-cliffs of considerable height. Pieces +were continually breaking off, and floating out to sea; and a great +fall happened while we were in the bay, which made a noise like +cannon.</p> + +<p>The inner parts of the country were not less savage and horrible. +The wild rocks raised their lofty summits till they were lost in the +clouds, and the valleys lay covered with everlasting snow. Not a tree +was to be seen, nor a shrub even big enough to make a toothpick. The +only vegetation we met with was a coarse strong-bladed grass growing +in tufts, wild burnet, and a plant like moss, which sprung from the +rocks.</p> + +<p>Seals, or sea-bears, were pretty numerous. They were smaller than +those at Staten Land: Perhaps the most of those we saw were females, +for the shores swarmed with young cubs. We saw none of that sort +which we call lions; but there were some of those which the writer of +Lord Anson's voyage describes under that name; at least they appeared +to us to be of the same sort; and are, in my opinion, very improperly +called lions, for I could not see any grounds for the comparison.</p> + +<p>Here were several flocks of penguins, the largest I ever saw; some +which we brought on board weighed from twenty-nine to thirty-eight +pounds. It appears by Bougainville's account of the animals of +Falkland Islands, that this penguin is there; and I think it is very +well described by him under the name of first class of penguins. The +oceanic birds were albatrosses, common gulls, and that sort which I +call Port Egmont hens, terns, shags, divers, the new white bird, and +a small bird like those of the Cape of Good Hope, called yellow +birds; which, having shot two, we found most delicious food.</p> + +<p>All the land birds we saw consisted of a few small larks, nor did +we meet with any quadrupeds. Mr Forster indeed observed some dung, +which he judged to come from a fox, or some such animal. The lands, +or rather rocks, bordering on the sea-coast, were not covered with +snow like the inland parts; but all the vegetation we could see on +the clear places was the grass above-mentioned. The rocks seemed to +contain iron. Having made the above observations, we set out for the +ship, and got on board a little after twelve o'clock, with a quantity +of seals and penguins, an acceptable present to the crew.</p> + +<p>It must not, however, be understood that we were in want of +provisions: we had yet plenty of every kind; and since we had been on +this coast, I had ordered, in addition to the common allowance, wheat +to be boiled every morning for breakfast; but any kind of fresh meat +was preferred by most on board to salt. For my own part, I was now, +for the first time, heartily tired of salt meat of every kind; and +though the flesh of the penguins could scarcely vie with bullock's +liver, its being fresh was sufficient to make it go down. I called +the bay we had been in, Possession Bay. It is situated in the +latitude of 54° 5' S., longitude 37° 18' W., and eleven +leagues to the east of Cape North. A few miles to the west of +Possession Bay, between it and Cape Buller, lies the Bay of Isles, so +named on account of several small isles lying in and before it.</p> + +<p>As soon as the boat was hoisted in, we made sail along the coast +to the east, with a fine breeze at W.S.W. From Cape Buller the +direction of the coast is S. 72° 30' E., for the space of eleven +or twelve leagues, to a projecting point, which obtained the name of +Cape Saunders. Beyond this cape is a pretty large bay, which I named +Cumberland Bay. In several parts in the bottom of it, as also in some +others of less extent, lying between Cape Saunders and Possession +Bay, were vast tracks of frozen snow, or ice, not yet broken loose. +At eight o'clock, being just past Cumberland Bay, and falling little +wind, we hauled off the coast, from which we were distant about four +miles, and found one hundred and ten fathoms water.</p> + +<p>We had variable light airs and calms till six o'clock the next +morning, when the wind fixed at north, and blew a gentle breeze; but +it lasted no longer than ten o'clock, when it fell almost to a calm. +At noon, observed in latitude 54° 30' S., being then about two or +three leagues from the coast, which extended from N. 59° W. to S. +13° W. The land in this last direction was an isle, which seemed +to be the extremity of the coast to the east. The nearest land to us +being a projecting point which terminated in a round hillock, was, on +account of the day, named Cape Charlotte. On the west side of Cape +Charlotte lies a bay which obtained the name of Royal Bay, and the +west point of it was named Cape George. It is the east point of +Cumberland Bay, and lies in the direction of S.E. by E. from Cape +Saunders, distant seven leagues. Cape George and Cape Charlotte lie +in the direction of S. 37° E. and N. 37° W., distant six +leagues from each other. The isle above-mentioned, which was called +Cooper's Isle, after my first lieutenant, lies in the direction of S. +by E., distant eight leagues from Cape Charlotte. The coast between +them forms a large bay, to which I gave the name of Sandwich. The +wind being variable all the afternoon we advanced but little; in the +night it fixed at S. and S.S.W., and blew a gentle gale, attended +with showers of snow.</p> + +<p>The 19th was wholly spent in plying, the wind continuing at S. and +S.S.W., clear pleasant weather, but cold. At sunrise a new land was +seen, bearing S.E. 1/2 E. It first appeared in a single hill, like a +sugar-loaf; some time after other detached pieces appeared above the +horizon near the hill. At noon, observed in the latitude 54° 42' +30" S., Cape Charlotte bearing N. 38° W., distant four leagues; +and Cooper's Isle S. 31° W. In this situation a lurking rock, +which lies off Sandwich Bay, five miles from the land, bore W. 1/2 +N., distant one mile, and near this rock were several breakers. In +the afternoon we had a prospect of a ridge of mountains behind +Sandwich Bay, whose lofty and icy summits were elevated high above +the clouds. The wind continued at S.S.W. till six o'clock, when it +fell to a calm. At this time Cape Charlotte bore N. 31° W., and +Cooper's Island W.S.W. In this situation we found the variation, by +the azimuths, to be 11° 39', and by the amplitude, 11° 12' E. +At ten o'clock, a light breeze springing up at north, we steered to +the south till twelve, and then brought-to for the night.</p> + +<p>At two o'clock in the morning of the 20th we made sail to S.W. +round Cooper's Island. It is a rock of considerable height, about +five miles in circuit, and one mile from the main. At this isle the +main coast takes a S.W. direction for the space of four or five +leagues to a point, which I called Cape Disappointment. Off that are +three small isles, the southernmost of which is green, low, and flat, +and lies one league from the cape.</p> + +<p>As we advanced to S.W. land opened, off this point, in the +direction of N. 60° W., and nine leagues beyond it. It proved an +island quite detached from the main, and obtained the name of +Pickersgill Island, after my third officer. Soon after a point of the +main, beyond this island, came in sight, in the direction of N. +55° W., which exactly united the coast at the very point we had +seen, and taken the bearing of, the day we first came in with it, and +proved to a demonstration that this land, which we had taken for part +of a great continent, was no more than an island of seventy leagues +in circuit.</p> + +<p>Who would have thought that an island of no greater extent than +this, situated between the latitude of 54° and 55°, should, +in the very height of summer, be in a manner wholly covered, many +fathoms deep, with frozen snow, but more especially the S.W. coast? +The very sides and craggy summits of the lofty mountains were cased +with snow and ice; but the quantity which lay in the valleys is +incredible; and at the bottom of the bays the coast was terminated by +a wall of ice of considerable height. It can hardly be doubted that a +great deal of ice is formed here in the water, which in the spring is +broken off, and dispersed over the sea; but this island cannot +produce the ten-thousandth part of what we saw; so that either there +must be more land, or the ice is formed without it. These reflections +led me to think that the land we had seen the preceding day might +belong to an extensive track, and I still had hopes of discovering a +continent. I must confess the disappointment I now met with did not +affect me much; for, to judge of the bulk by the sample, it would not +be worth the discovery.</p> + +<p>I called this island the isle of Georgia, in honour of his +majesty. It is situated, between the latitudes of 53° 57' and +54° 57' S.; and between 38° 13' and 35° 34' west +longitude. It extends S.E. by E. and N.W. by W., and is thirty-one +leagues long in that direction; and its greatest breadth is about ten +leagues. It seems to abound with bays and harbours, the N.E. coast +especially; but the vast quantity of ice must render them +inaccessible the greatest part of the year; or, at least, it must be +dangerous lying in them, on account of the breaking up of the ice +cliffs.</p> + +<p>It is remarkable that we did not see a river, or stream of fresh +water, on the whole coast. I think it highly probable that there are +no perennial springs in the country; and that the interior parts, as +being much elevated, never enjoy heat enough to melt the snow in such +quantities as to produce a river, or stream, of water. The coast +alone receives warmth sufficient to melt the snow, and this only on +the N.E. side; for the other, besides being exposed to the cold south +winds, is, in a great degree, deprived of the sun's rays, by the +uncommon height of the mountains.</p> + +<p>It was from a persuasion that the sea-coast of a land situated in +the latitude of 54°, could not, in the very height of summer, be +wholly covered with snow, that I supposed Bouvet's discovery to be +large islands of ice. But after I had seen this land, I no longer +hesitated about the existence of Cape Circumcision; nor did I doubt +that I should find more land than I should have time to explore. With +these ideas I quitted this coast, and directed my course to the +E.S.E. for the land we had seen the preceding day.</p> + +<p>The wind was very variable till noon, when it fixed at N.N.E., and +blew a gentle gale; but it increased in such a manner, that, before +three o'clock, we were reduced to our two courses, and obliged to +strike top-gallant yards. We were very fortunate in getting clear of +the land, before this gale overtook us; it being hard to say what +might have been the consequence had it come on while we were on the +north coast. This storm was of short duration; for, at eight o'clock +it began to abate; and at midnight it was little wind. We then took +the opportunity to sound, but found no bottom with a line of an +hundred and eighty fathoms.</p> + +<p>Next day the storm was succeeded by a thick fog, attended with +rain; the wind veered to N.W., and, at five in the morning, it fell +calm, which continued till eight; and then we got a breeze southerly, +with which we stood to the east till three in the afternoon. The +weather then coming somewhat clear, we made sail, and steered north +in search of land; but, at half-past six, we were again involved in a +thick mist, which made it necessary to haul the wind, and spend the +night in making short boards.</p> + +<p>We had variable light airs next to a calm, and thick foggy +weather, till half-past seven o'clock in the evening of the 22d, when +we got a fine breeze at north, and the weather was so clear that we +could see two or three leagues round us. We seized the opportunity, +and steered to west; judging we were to the east of the land. After +running ten miles to the west, the weather again became foggy, and we +hauled the wind, and spent the night under top-sails.</p> + +<p>Next morning at six o'clock, the fog clearing away, so that we +could see three or four miles, I took the opportunity to steer again +to the west, with the wind at east, a fresh breeze; but two hours +after, a thick fog once more obliged us to haul the wind to the +south. At eleven o'clock, a short interval of clear weather gave us +view of three or four rocky islets extending from S.E. to E.N.E., two +or three miles distant; but we did not see the Sugar-Loaf Peak +beforementioned. Indeed, two or three miles was the extent of our +horizon.</p> + +<p>We were well assured that this was the land we had seen before, +which we had now been quite round; and therefore it could be no more +than a few detached rocks, receptacles for birds, of which we now saw +vast numbers, especially shags, who gave us notice of the vicinity of +land before we saw it. These rocks lie in the latitude of 55° S., +and S. 75° E., distant twelve leagues from Cooper's Isle.</p> + +<p>The interval of clear weather was of very short duration, before +we had as thick a fog as ever, attended with rain, on which we tacked +in sixty fathoms water, and stood to the north. Thus we spent our +time, involved in a continual thick mist; and, for aught we knew, +surrounded by dangerous rocks. The shags and soundings were our best +pilots; for after we had stood a few miles to the north, we got out +of soundings, and saw no more shags. The succeeding day and night we +spent in making short boards; and at eight o'clock on the 24th, +judging ourselves not far from the rocks by some straggling shags +which came about us, we sounded in sixty fathoms water, the bottom +stones and broken shells. Soon after, we saw the rocks bearing S.S.W. +1/2 W., four miles distant, but still we did not see the peak. It +was, no doubt, beyond our horizon, which was limited to a short +distance; and, indeed, we had but a transient sight of the other +rocks, before they were again lost in the fog.</p> + +<p>With a light air of wind at north, and a great swell from N.E., we +were able to clear the rocks to the west; and, at four in the p.m., +judging ourselves to be three or four leagues east and west of them, +I steered south, being quite tired with cruizing about them in a +thick fog; nor was it worth my while to spend any more time in +waiting for clear weather, only for the sake of having a good sight +of a few straggling rocks. At seven o'clock, we had at intervals a +clear sky to the west, which gave us a sight of the mountains of the +isle of Georgia, bearing W.N.W., about eight leagues distant. At +eight o'clock we steered S.E. by S., and at ten S.E. by E., with a +fresh breeze at north, attended with a very thick fog; but we were, +in some measure, acquainted with the sea over which we were running. +The rocks above-mentioned obtained the name of Clerke's Rocks, after +my second officer, he being the first who saw them.[10]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 10: There was no inducement to offer a single +remark on the discoveries mentioned in this section, and the one that +follows, or to give any additional observations from the works +hitherto used. It is utterly improbable that any human being could be +benefited by the most perfect information that might be afforded, +respecting these desolate regions. Mr G.F. it is true, hazards a +speculation, that if the northern ocean should ever be cleared of +whales, by our annual fisheries, this part of the southern hemisphere +might be visited for the sake of procuring these animals so abundant +in it. But as besides this proviso, he thinks it necessary that +Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego should be inhabited and civilized like +Scotland and Sweden, there will evidently be time enough some +centuries hence, to investigate minutely the geography and natural +history of Georgia and its kindred neighbours.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION VI.</p> + +<p><i>Proceedings after leaving the Isle of Georgia, with an Account +of the Discovery of Sandwich Land; with some Reasons for there being +Land about the South Pole</i>.</p> + +<p>On the 25th, we steered E.S.E., with a fresh gale at N.N.E., +attended with foggy weather, till towards the evening, when the sky +becoming clear, we found the variation to be 9° 26' E., being at +this time in the latitude of 56° 16' S., longitude 32° 9' +W.</p> + +<p>Having continued to steer E.S.E., with a fine gale at N.N.W., till +day-light next morning, on seeing no land to the east, I gave orders +to steer south, being at this time in the latitude of 56° 33' S., +longitude 31° 10' W. The weather continued clear, and gave us an +opportunity to observe several distances of the sun and moon for the +correcting our longitude, which at noon was 31° 4' W., the +latitude observed 57° 38' S. We continued to steer to the south +till the 27th, at noon, at which time we were in the latitude of +59° 46' S., and had so thick a fog that we could not see a ship's +length. It being no longer safe to sail before the wind, as we were +to expect soon to fall in with ice, I therefore hauled to the east, +having a gentle breeze at N.N.E. Soon after the fog clearing away, we +resumed our course to the south till four o'clock, when it returned +again as thick as ever, and made it necessary for us to haul upon a +wind.</p> + +<p>I now reckoned we were in latitude 60° S., and farther I did +not intend to go, unless I observed some certain signs of soon +meeting with land. For it would not have been prudent in me to have +spent my time in penetrating to the south, when it was at least as +probable that a large tract of land might be found near Cape +Circumcision. Besides, I was tired of these high southern latitudes, +where nothing was to be found but ice and thick fogs. We had now a +long hollow swell from the west, a strong indication that there was +no land in that direction; so that I think I may venture to assert +that the extensive coast, laid down in Mr Dalrymple's chart of the +ocean between Africa and America, and the Gulph of St Sebastian, do +not exist.</p> + +<p>At seven o'clock in the evening, the fog receding from us a +little, gave us a sight of an ice island, several penguins and some +snow peterels; we sounded, but found no ground at one hundred and +forty fathoms. The fog soon returning, we spent the night in making +boards over that space which we had, in some degree, made ourselves +acquainted with in the day.</p> + +<p>At eight in the morning of the 28th, we stood to the east, with a +gentle gale at north; the weather began to clear up; and we found the +sea strewed with large and small ice; several penguins, snow +peterels, and other birds were seen, and some whales. Soon after we +had sun-shine, but the air was cold; the mercury in the thermometer +stood generally at thirty-five, but at noon it was 37°; the +latitude by observation was 60° 4' S., longitude 29° 23' +W.</p> + +<p>We continued to stand to the east till half-past two o'clock, +p.m., when we fell in, all at once, with a vast number of large +ice-islands, and a sea strewed with loose ice. The weather too was +become thick and hazy, attended with drizzling rain and sleet, which +made it the more dangerous to stand in among the ice. For this reason +we tacked and stood back to the west, with the wind at north. The +ice-islands, which at this time surrounded us, were nearly all of +equal height, and shewed a flat even surface; but they were of +various extent, some being two or three miles in circuit. The loose +ice was what had broken from these isles.</p> + +<p>Next morning, the wind falling and veering to S.W., we steered +N.E.; but this coarse was soon intercepted by numerous ice-islands; +and, having but very little wind, we were obliged to steer such +courses as carried us the clearest of them; so that we hardly made +any advance, one way or other, during the whole day. Abundance of +whales and penguins were about us all the time; and the weather fair, +but dark and gloomy.</p> + +<p>At midnight the wind began to freshen at N.N.E., with which we +stood to the N.W., till six in the morning of the 30th, when the wind +veering to N.N.W., we tacked and stood to N.E., and soon after sailed +through a good deal of loose ice, and passed two large islands. +Except a short interval of clear weather about nine o'clock, it was +continually foggy, with either sleet or snow. At noon we were, by our +reckoning, in the latitude of 59° 3O' S., longitude 29° 24' +W.</p> + +<p>Continuing to stand to N.E. with a fresh breeze at N.N.W., at two +o'clock, we passed one of the largest ice-islands we had seen in the +voyage, and some time after passed two others, which were much +smaller; Weather still foggy, with sleet: And the wind continued at +N. by W., with which we stood to N.E., over a sea strewed with +ice.</p> + +<p>At half an hour past six next morning, as we were standing N.N.E. +with the wind at west, the fog very fortunately clearing away a +little, we discovered land ahead, three or four miles distant. On +this we hauled the wind to the north; but finding we could not +weather the land on this tack, we soon after tacked in one hundred +and seventy-five fathoms water, three miles from the shore, and about +half a league from some breakers. The weather then cleared up a +little more, and gave us a tolerably good sight of the land. That +which we had fallen in with proved three rocky islets of considerable +height. The outermost terminated in a lofty peak like a sugar-loaf, +and obtained the name of Freezeland Peak, after the man who first +discovered it. Latitude 59° S., longitude 27° W. Behind this +peak, that is to the east of it, appeared an elevated coast, whose +lofty snow-clad summits were seen above the clouds. It extended from +N. by E. to E.S.E., and I called it Cape Bristol, in honour of the +noble family of Hervey. At the same time another elevated coast +appeared in sight, bearing S.W. by S., and at noon it extended from +S.E. to S.S.W., from four to eight leagues distant; at this time the +observed latitude was 59° 13' 30" S., longitude 27° 45' W. I +called this land Southern Thule, because it is the most southern land +that has ever yet been discovered. It shews a surface of vast height, +and is every where covered with snow. Some thought they saw land in +the space between Thule and Cape Bristol. It is more than probable +that these two lands are connected, and that this space is a deep +bay, which I called Forster's Bay.</p> + +<p>At one o'clock, finding that we could not weather Thule, we tacked +and stood to the north, and at four, Freezeland Peak bore east, +distant three or four leagues. Soon after, it fell little wind, and +we were left to the mercy of a great westerly swell, which set right +upon the shore. We sounded, but a line of two hundred fathoms found +no bottom.</p> + +<p>At eight o'clock, the weather, which had been very hazy, clearing +up, we saw Cape Bristol bearing E.S.E., and terminating in a point to +the north, beyond which we could see no land. This discovery relieved +us from the fear of being carried by the swell on the most horrible +coast in the world, and we continued to stand to the north all night, +with a light breeze at west.</p> + +<p>On the 1st of February, at four o'clock in the morning, we got +sight of a new coast, which at six o'clock bore N. 60° east. It +proved a high promontory, which I named Cape Montagu, situated in +latitude 58° 27' S., longitude 26° 44' west, and seven or +eight leagues to the north of Cape Bristol. We saw land from space to +space between them, which made me conclude that the whole was +connected. I was sorry I could not determine this with greater +certainty; but prudence would not permit me to venture near a coast, +subject to thick fogs, on which there was no anchorage; where every +port was blocked or filled up with ice; and the whole country, from +the summits of the mountains, down to the very brink of the cliffs +which terminate the coast, covered, many fathoms thick, with +everlasting snow. The cliffs alone was all which was to be seen like +land.</p> + +<p>Several large ice-islands lay upon the coast; one of which +attracted my notice. It had a flat surface, was of considerable +extent both in height and circuit, and had perpendicular sides, on +which the waves of the sea had made no impression; by which I judged +that it had not been long from land, and that it might lately have +come out of some bay on the coast, where it had been formed.</p> + +<p>At noon we were east and west of the northern part of Cape +Montagu, distant about five leagues, and Freezeland Peak bore S. +16° east, distant twelve leagues; latitude observed 58° 25' +S. In the morning the variation was 10° 11' east. At two in the +afternoon, as we were standing to the north, with a light breeze at +S.W., we saw land bearing N. 25' east, distant fourteen leagues. Cape +Montagu bore at this time, S. 66° east; at eight it bore S. +40° east; Cape Bristol, S. by E.; the new land extending from N. +40° to 52° east; and we thought we saw land still more to the +east, and beyond it.</p> + +<p>Continuing to steer to the north all night, at six o'clock the +next morning a new land was seen bearing N. 12° east, about ten +leagues distant. It appeared in two hummocks just peeping above the +horizon; but we soon after lost sight of them; and having got the +wind at N.N.E. a fresh breeze, we stood for the northernmost land we +had seen the day before, which at this time bore E.S.E. We fetched in +with it by ten o'clock, but could not weather it, and were obliged to +tack three miles from the coast, which extended from E. by S. to +S.E., and had much the appearance of being an island of about eight +or ten leagues circuit. It shews a surface of considerable height, +whose summit was lost in the clouds, and, like all the neighbouring +lands, covered with a sheet of snow and ice, except in a projecting +point on the north side, and two hills seen over this point, which +probably might be two islands. These only were clear of snow, and +seemed covered with a green turf. Some large ice islands lay to the +N.E., and some others to the south.</p> + +<p>We stood off till noon, and then tacked for the land again, in +order to see whether it was an island or no. The weather was now +become very hazy, which soon turning to a thick fog, put a stop to +discovery, and made it unsafe to stand for the shore; so that after +having run the same distance in, as we had run off, we tacked and +stood to N.W., for the land we had seen in the morning, which was yet +at a considerable distance. Thus we were obliged to leave the other, +under the supposition of its being an island, which I named Saunders, +after my honourable friend Sir Charles. It is situated in the +latitude of 57° 49' south longitude, 26° 44' west; and north, +distant thirteen leagues, from Cape Montagu.</p> + +<p>At six o'clock in the evening, the wind shifting to the west, we +tacked, and stood to the north; and at eight the fog clearing away, +gave us a sight of Saunders's Isle, extending from S.E. by S. to +E.S.E. We were still in doubt if it was an island; for, at this time, +land was seen bearing E. by S., which might or might not be connected +with it; it might also be the same that we had seen the preceding +evening. But, be this as it may, it was now necessary to take a view +of the land to the north, before we proceeded any farther to the +east. With this intention, we stood to the north, having a light +breeze at W. by S., which at two o'clock in the morning of the 3d, +was succeeded by a calm that continued till eight, when we got the +wind at E. by S. attended by hazy weather. At this time we saw the +land we were looking for, and which proved to be two isles. The day +on which they were discovered, was the occasion of calling them +Candlemas Isles; latitude 57° 11' S., longitude 27° 6' W. +They were of no great extent, but of considerable height, and were +covered with snow. A small rock was seen between them, and perhaps +there may be more; for the weather was so hazy that we soon lost +sight of the islands, and did not see them again till noon, at which +time they bore west, distant three or four leagues.</p> + +<p>As the wind kept veering to the south, we were obliged to stand to +the N.E., in which route we met with several large ice islands, loose +ice, and many penguins; and at midnight, came at once into water +uncommonly white, which alarmed the officer of the watch so much, +that he tacked the ship instantly. Some thought it was a float of +ice; others that it was shallow water; but, as it proved neither, +probably it was a shoal of fish.</p> + +<p>We stood to the south till two o'clock next morning, when we +resumed our course to the east with a faint breeze at S.S.E. which +having ended in a calm, at six, I took the opportunity of putting a +boat in the water to try if there were any current; and the trial +proved there was none. Some whales were playing about us, and +abundance of penguins: a few of the latter were shot, and they proved +to be of the same sort that we had seen among the ice before, and +different both from those on Staten Land, and from those at the isle +of Georgia. It is remarkable, that we had not seen a seal since we +left that coast. At noon we were in latitude of 56° 44' S., +longitude 25° 33' W. At this time we got a breeze at east, with +which we stood to the south, with a view of gaining the coast we had +left; but at eight o'clock the wind shifted to the south, and made it +necessary to tack and stand to the east; in which course we met with +several ice-islands and some loose ice; the weather continuing hazy +with snow and rain.</p> + +<p>No penguins were seen on the 5th, which made me conjecture that we +were leaving the land behind us, and that we had already seen its +northern extremity. At noon we were in the latitude of 57° 8' S., +longitude 23° 34' west, which was 3° of longitude to the east +of Saunders's Isle. In the afternoon the wind shifted to the west; +this enabled us to stretch to the south, and to get into the latitude +of the land, that, if it took an east direction, we might again fall +in with it.</p> + +<p>We continued to steer to the south and S.E. till next day at noon, +at which time we were in the latitude of 58° 15' S., longitude +21° 34' west, and seeing neither land nor signs of any, I +concluded that what we had seen, which I named Sandwich Land, was +either a group of islands, or else a point of the continent. For I +firmly believe that there is a tract of land near the Pole which is +the source of most of the ice that is spread over this vast southern +ocean. I also think it probable that it extends farthest to the north +opposite the southern Atlantic and Indian oceans; because ice was +always found by us farther to the north in these oceans than any +where else, which I judge could not be, if there were not land to the +south; I mean a land of considerable extent. For if we suppose that +no such land exists, and that ice may be formed without it, it will +follow of course that the cold ought to be every where nearly equal +round the Pole, as far as 70° or 60' of latitude, or so far as to +be beyond the influence of any of the known continents; consequently +we ought to see ice every where under the same parallel, or near it; +and yet the contrary has been, found. Very few ships have met with +ice going round Cape Horn: And we saw but little below the sixtieth +degree of latitude, in the Southern Pacific Ocean. Whereas in this +ocean, between the meridian of 40° west and 50° or 60° +east, we found ice as far north as 51°. Bouvet met with, some in +48°, and others have seen it in a much lower latitude. It is +true, however, that the greatest part of this southern continent +(supposing there is one), must lie within the polar circle, where the +sea is so pestered with ice, that the land is thereby inaccessible. +The risque one runs in exploring a coast, in these unknown and icy +seas, is so very great, that I can be bold enough to say that no man +will ever venture farther than I have done; and that the lands which +may lie to the south will never be explored. Thick fogs, snow storms, +intense cold, and every other thing that can render navigation +dangerous, must be encountered, and these difficulties are greatly +heightened by the inexpressibly horrid aspect of the country; a +country doomed by nature never once to feel the warmth of the sun's +rays, but to lie buried in everlasting snow and ice. The ports which +may be on the coast, are, in a manner, wholly filled up with frozen +snow of vast thickness; but if any should be so far open as to invite +a ship into it, she would run a risque of being fixed there for ever, +or of coming out in an ice island. The islands and floats on the +coast, the great falls from the ice-cliffs in the port, or a heavy +snow-storm attended with a sharp frost, would be equally fatal.</p> + +<p>After such an explanation as this, the reader must not expect to +find me much farther to the south. It was, however, not for want of +inclination, but for other reasons. It would have been rashness in me +to have risqued all that had been done during the voyage, in +discovering and exploring a coast, which, when discovered and +explored, would have answered no end whatever, or have been of the +least use, either to navigation or geography, or indeed to any other +science. Bouvet's discovery was yet before us, the existence of which +was to be cleared up; and, besides all this, we were not now in a +condition to undertake great things; nor indeed was there time, had +we been ever so well provided.</p> + +<p>These reasons induced me to alter the course to the east, with a +very strong gale at north, attended with an exceedingly heavy fall of +snow. The quantity which lodged on our sails was so great, that we +were frequently obliged to throw the ship up in the wind to shake it +out of them, otherwise neither they nor the ship could have supported +the weight. In the evening it ceased to snow; the weather cleared up, +the wind backed to the west, and we spent the night in making two +short boards, under close-reefed top-sails and fore-sail.</p> + +<p>At day-break on the 7th, we resumed our course to the east, with a +very fresh gale at S.W. by W., attended by a high sea from the same +direction. In the afternoon, being in the latitude of 58° 24' S., +longitude 16° 19' west, the variation was 1° 52' east. Only +three ice-islands seen this day. At eight o'clock, shortened sail, +and hauled the wind to the S.E. for the night, in which we had +several showers of snow and sleet.</p> + +<p>On the 8th at day-light, we resumed our east course with a gentle +breeze and fair weather. After sun-rise, being then in the latitude +of 58° 30' S., longitude 15° 14' west, the variation, by the +mean results of two compasses, was 2° 43' east. These +observations were more to be depended on than those made the night +before, there being much less sea now than then. In the afternoon, we +passed three ice-islands. This night was spent as the preceding.</p> + +<p>At six next morning, being in the latitude of 58° 27' S., +longitude 13° 4' W., the variation was 26' E.; and in the +afternoon, being in the same latitude, and about a quarter of a +degree more to the east, it was 2' west. Therefore this last +situation must be in or near the Line, in which the compass has no +variation. We had a calm the most part of the day. The weather fair +and clear, excepting now and then a snow-shower. The mercury in the +thermometer at noon rose to 40; whereas, for several days before, it +had been no higher than 36 or 38. We had several ice-islands in +sight, but no one thing that could induce us to think that any land +was in our neighbourhood. At eight in the evening a breeze sprung up +at S.E., with which we stood to N.E.</p> + +<p>During the night the wind freshened and veered south, which +enabled us to steer east. The wind was attended with showers of sleet +and snow till day-light, when the weather became fair, but piercing +cold, so that the water on deck was frozen, and at noon the mercury +in the thermometer was no higher than 34-1/2. At six o'clock in the +morning, the variation was 23' west, being then in the latitude of +58° 15' S., longitude 11° 41' W; and at six in the evening, +being in the same latitude, and in the longitude of 9° 24' W., it +was 1° 51' W. In the evening the wind abated; and during the +night, it was variable between south and west. Ice-islands +continually in sight.</p> + +<p>On the 11th, wind westerly, light airs attended with heavy showers +of snow in the morning; but as the day advanced, the weather became +fair, clear, and serene. Still continuing to steer east, at noon we +observed in latitude 58° 11', longitude at the same time 7° +55' west. Thermometer 34-2/3. In the afternoon we had two hours calm; +after which we had faint breezes between the N.E. and S.E.</p> + +<p>At six o'clock in the morning of the 12th, being in the latitude +of 58° 23' S., longitude 6° 54' W., the variation was 3° +23' west. We had variable light airs next to a calm all this day, and +the weather was fair and clear till towards the evening, when it +became cloudy with snow-showers, and the air very cold. Ice-islands +continually in sight; most of them small and breaking to pieces.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon of the 13th, the wind increased, the sky became +clouded, and soon after we had a very heavy fall of snow, which +continued till eight or nine o'clock in the evening, when the wind +abating and veering to S.E., the sky cleared up, and we had a fair +night, attended with so sharp a frost, that the water in all our +vessels on deck was next morning covered with a sheet of ice. The +mercury in the thermometer was as low as 29°, which is 3° +below freezing, or rather 4; for we generally found the water freeze +when the mercury stood at 33°.</p> + +<p>Towards noon on the 14th, the wind veering to the south, increased +to a very strong gale, and blew in heavy squalls attended with snow. +At intervals, between the squalls, the weather was fair and clear, +but exceedingly cold. We continued to steer east, inclining a little +to the north, and in, the afternoon crossed the first meridian, or +that of Greenwich, in the latitude of 57° 50' S. At eight in, the +evening, we close-reefed the top-sails, took in the main-sail, and +steered east with a very hard gale at S.S.W., and a high sea from the +same direction.</p> + +<p>At day-break on the 15th, we set the main-sail, loosed a reef out +of each top-sail, and with a very strong gale at S.W., and fair +weather, steered E.N.E. till noon, at which, time we were in latitude +of 50° 37' S., longitude 4° 11' E., when we pointed to the +N.E., in order to get into the latitude of Cape Circumcision. Some +large ice-islands were in sight, and the air was nearly as cold as on +the preceding day. At eight o'clock in the evening, shortened sail, +and at eleven hauled the wind to the N.W., not daring to stand on in +the night, which was foggy, with snow-showers, and a smart frost.</p> + +<p>At day-break on the 16th, we bore away N.E., with a light breeze +at west, which, at noon, was succeeded by a calm and fair weather. +Our latitude at this time was 55° 26' S., longitude 5° 52' +E., in which situation we had a great swell from the southward, but +no ice in sight. At one o'clock in the p.m., a breeze springing up at +E.N.E., we stood to S.E. till six, then tacked, and stood to the +north, under double-reefed top-sails and courses, having a very fresh +gale attended with snow and sleet, which fixed to the masts and +rigging as it fell, and coated the whole with ice.</p> + +<p>On the 17th the wind continued veering, by little and little, to +the south, till midnight, when it fixed at S.W. Being at this time in +the latitude of 54° 20' S., longitude 6° 33' east, I steered +east, having a prodigious high sea from the south, which assured us +no land was near in that direction.</p> + +<p>In the morning of the 18th, it ceased to snow; the weather became +fair and clear; and we found the variation to be 18° 44' west. At +noon we were in the latitude of 54° 25', longitude 8° 46' +east. I thought this a good latitude to keep in, to look for Cape +Circumcision; because, if the land had ever so little extent in the +direction of north and south, we could not miss seeing it, as the +northern point is said to lie in 54°. We had yet a great swell +from the south, so that I was now well assured it could only be an +island, and it was of no consequence which side we fell in with. In +the evening Mr Wales made several observations of the moon, and stars +Regulus and Spica; the mean results, at four o'clock when the +observations were made, for finding the time by the watch, gave +9° 15' 20" east longitude. The watch at the same time gave 9° +36' 45". Soon after the variation was found to be 13° 10' west. +It is nearly in this situation that Mr Bouvet had 1° east. I +cannot suppose that the variation has altered so much since that +time; but rather think he had made some mistake in his observations. +That there could be none in ours was certain, from the uniformity for +some time past. Besides, we found 12° 8' west, variation, nearly +under this meridian, in January 1773. During the night the wind +veered round by the N.W. to N.N.E. and blew a fresh gale.</p> + +<p>At eight in the morning of the 19th, we saw the appearance of land +in the direction of E. by S., or that of our course; but it proved a +mere fog-bank, and soon after dispersed. We continued to steer E. by +S. and S.E., till seven o'clock in the evening, when being in the +latitude of 54° 42' S., longitude 13° 3' E., and the wind +having veered to N.E., we tacked and stood to N.W. under close-reefed +topsails and courses; having a very strong gale attended with +snow-showers.</p> + +<p>At four o'clock next morning, being in the latitude of 54° 30' +S., longitude 12° 33'. east, we tacked and stretched to N.E. with +a fresh gale at S.W., attended with snow-showers and sleet. At noon, +being in the latitude of 54° 8' S., longitude 12° 59' E., +with a fresh gale at W. by N., and tolerably clear weather, we +steered east till ten o'clock in the evening, when we brought-to, +lest we might pass any land in the night, of which we however had not +the least signs.</p> + +<p>At day-break, having made sail, we bore away E., and at noon +observed in latitude 54° 16' S., longitude 16° 13' east, +which is 5° to the east of the longitude in which Cape +Circumcision is said to lie; so that we began to think there was no +such land in existence. I however continued to steer east, inclining +a little to the south, till four o'clock in the afternoon of the next +day, when we were in latitude 54° 24' S., longitude 19° 18' +east.</p> + +<p>We had now run down thirteen degrees of longitude in the very +latitude assigned for Bouvet's Land. I was therefore well assured +that what he had seen could be nothing but an island of ice; for, if +it had been land, it is hardly possible we could have missed it, +though it were ever so small. Besides, from the time of leaving the +southern lands, we had not met with the least signs of any other. But +even suppose we had, it would have been no proof of the existence of +Cape Circumcision; for I am well assured that neither seals nor +penguins, nor any of the oceanic birds, are indubitable signs of the +vicinity of land. I will allow that they are found on the coasts of +all these southern lands; but are they not also to be found in all +parts of the southern ocean? There are, however, some oceanic or +aquatic birds which point out the vicinity of land; especially shags, +which seldom go out of sight of it; and gannets, boobies, and +men-of-war birds, I believe, seldom go very far out to sea.</p> + +<p>As we were now no more than two degrees of longitude front our +route to the south, when we left the Cape of Good Hope, it was to no +purpose to proceed any farther to the east under this parallel, +knowing that no land could be there. But an opportunity now offering +of clearing up some doubts of our having seen land farther to the +south, I steered S.E. to get into the situation in which it was +supposed to lie.</p> + +<p>We continued this course till four o'clock the next morning, and +then S.E. by E. and E.S.E., till eight in the evening, at which time +we were in the latitude of 55° 25' S., longitude 23° 22' +east, both deduced from observations made the same day; for, in the +morning, the sky was clear at intervals, and afforded an opportunity +to observe several distances of the sun and moon, which we had not +been able to do for some time past, having had a constant succession +of bad weather.</p> + +<p>Having now run over the place where the land was supposed to lie, +without seeing the least signs of any, it was no longer to be doubted +but that the ice-islands had deceived us as well as Mr Bouvet. The +wind by this time having veered to the north, and increased to a +perfect storm, attended as usual with snow and sleet, we handed the +top-sails and hauled up E.N.E. under the courses. During the night +the wind abated, and veered to N.W., which enabled us to steer more +to the north, having no business farther south.</p> + +<p>SECTION VII.</p> + +<p><i>Heads of what has been done in the Voyage; with some +Conjectures concerning the Formation of Ice-Islands; and an Account +of our Proceedings till our Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope.</i></p> + +<p>I had now made the circuit of the southern ocean in a high +latitude, and traversed it in such a manner as to leave not the least +room for the possibility of there being a continent, unless near the +Pole, and out of the reach of navigation. By twice visiting the +tropical sea, I had not only settled the situation of some old +discoveries, but made there many new ones, and left, I conceive, very +little more to be done even in that part. Thus I flatter myself, that +the intention of the voyage has, in every respect, been fully +answered; the southern hemisphere sufficiently explored, and a final +end put to the searching after a southern continent, which has, at +times, ingrossed the attention of some of the maritime powers, for +near two centuries past, and been a favourite theory amongst the +geographers of all ages.</p> + +<p>That there may be a continent, or large tract of land, near the +Pole, I will not deny; on the contrary I am of opinion there is; and +it is probable that we have seen a part of it. The excessive cold, +the many islands and vast floats of ice, all tend to prove that there +must be land to the south; and for my persuasion that this southern +land must lie, or extend, farthest to the north opposite to the +southern Atlantic and Indian oceans, I have already assigned some +reasons; to which I may add the greater degree of cold experienced by +us in these seas, than in the southern Pacific ocean under the same +parallels of latitude.[11]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 11: After what has been said of the utter +inutility of a southern continent to any human being, or even in the +way of hypothesis to explain the constitution of nature, it may seem +quite unnecessary to occupy a moment's attention about any arguments +for its existence. As, however, a few remarks were hazarded +respecting those of a mathematical kind, it may be proper to say a +word or two as to others of a physical nature. Two reasons for this +supposition have been urged; viz. the presence of rivers necessary to +account for the large masses of fresh-water ice found in high +southern latitudes; and the existence of firm and immoveable points +of land round which these masses might form. The first of these is +glaringly erroneous in point of principle and fact. In the first +place, it is most certain, that the waters of the ocean admit of +being frozen, and that when so, they either do or do not contain the +salts they held in solution, according to certain circumstances, +which the argument does not require to be explained. And, secondly, +it is absurd to imagine that lands in the vicinity of the Pole should +have any rivers, as the snow-line, as it has been called, reaches so +low down there as the surface of the earth, and as the temperature of +the atmosphere, reckoning from what is known of it in high latitudes, +can scarcely ever be above that point at which water becomes solid. +The second argument is equally unsubstantial, and may be as readily +invalidated. In fact, the principal thing requisite for the +congelation of water in any circumstances of situation, is the +reduction of the temperature to a certain point, to the effect of +which, it is well known, the agitation of the water often materially +contributes. It may be remarked also, that as the beat of the ocean +seems to diminish in pretty regular progression from the surface +downwards, so it is highly probable, that, even at considerable +distances from the Pole, the lower strata may be in a state of +congelation; much more probably, therefore, there may exist at and +near the Pole, a mass of ice of indefinite size and durability, +which, extending to greater or smaller distances according to +different circumstances, may serve as the basis, or <i>point +d'appui</i>, of all the islands and fields of ice discoverable in +this region. Ice, in fact, is just as capable of a fixed position as +earth is, or any other solid body, and may accordingly have +constituted the substratum of the southern hemisphere within the +polar circle, since the time that this planet assumed its present +form and condition. So much then on the subject of a southern +continent, which, after all, we see is not worth being disputed +about, and appears to be set up, as it were, in absolute derision of +human curiosity and enterprise. Wise men, it is likely, +notwithstanding such promissory eulogiums as Mr Dalrymple held out, +will neither venture their lives to ascertain its existence, nor lose +their time and tempers in arguing about it. Cook's observation, it is +perhaps necessary to remark, as to the ice extending further towards +the north opposite the Atlantic and Indian oceans than any where +else, may be accounted for without the supposition he makes in +explanation of it. Thus certain warm currents of water may be +conceived to proceed from the north, towards those other parts where +the ice has not been seen to extend so far, and to prevent the +formation of it to the same distance; or again, there may be islands +and rocks, to which the ice adheres, in the situations mentioned by +Cook. Both causes, indeed, may operate, and there may be others also +quite equivalent to the effect. But it is full time to leave this +merely curious subject. Mr G.F. has somewhat wittily remarked, that +the opinion of the existence of a southern continent maintained by +some philosophers, though much invalidated by this voyage, is +nevertheless a proof of their great intelligence, considering the few +<i>data</i> on which they could proceed. Some readers may incline, +perhaps, to give as much credit to the writer, for hazarding, on +about equal grounds, any opinion in opposition to +it.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In this last ocean, the mercury in the thermometer seldom fell so +low as the freezing point, till we were in 60° and upwards; +whereas in the others, it fell as low in the latitude of 54°. +This was certainly owing to there being a greater quantity of ice, +and to its extending farther to the north, in these two seas than in +the south Pacific; and if ice be first formed at, or near land, of +which I have no doubt, it will follow that the land also extends +farther north.</p> + +<p>The formation or coagulation of ice-islands has not, to my +knowledge, been thoroughly investigated. Some have supposed them to +be formed by the freezing of the water at the mouths of large rivers, +or great cataracts, where they accumulate till they are broken off by +their own weight. My observations will not allow me to acquiesce in +this opinion; because we never found any of the ice which we took up +incorporated with earth, or any of its produce, as I think it must +have been, had it been coagulated in land-waters. It is a doubt with +me, whether there be any rivers in these countries. It is certain, +that we saw not a river, or stream of water, on all the coast of +Georgia, nor on any of the southern lands. Nor did we ever see a +stream of water run from any of the ice-islands. How are we then to +suppose that there are large rivers? The valleys are covered, many +fathoms deep, with everlasting snow; and, at the sea, they terminate +in icy cliffs of vast height. It is here where the ice-islands are +formed; not from streams of water, but from consolidated snow and +sleet, which is almost continually falling or drifting down from the +mountains, especially in the winter, when the frost must be intense. +During that season, the ice-cliffs must so accumulate as to fill up +all the bays, be they ever so large. This is a fact which cannot be +doubted, as we have seen it so in summer. These cliffs accumulate by +continual falls of snow, and what drifts from the mountains, till +they are no longer able to support their own weight; and then large +pieces break off, which we call ice-islands. Such as have a flat even +surface, must be of the ice formed in the bays, and before the flat +vallies; the others, which have a tapering unequal surface, must be +formed on, or under, the side of a coast composed of pointed rocks +and precipices, or some such uneven surface. For we cannot suppose +that snow alone, as it falls, can form, on a plain surface, such as +the sea, such a variety of high peaks and hills, as we saw on many of +the ice-isles. It is certainly more reasonable to believe that they +are formed on a coast whose surface is something similar to theirs. I +have observed that all the ice-islands of any extent, and before they +begin to break to pieces, are terminated by perpendicular cliffs of +clear ice or frozen snow, always on one or more sides, but most +generally all round. Many, and those of the largest size, which had a +hilly and spiral surface, shewed a perpendicular cliff, or side, from +the summit of the highest peak down to its base. This to me was a +convincing proof, that these, as well as the flat isles, must have +broken off from substances like themselves, that is, from some large +tract of ice.</p> + +<p>When I consider the vast quantity of ice we saw, and the vicinity +of the places to the Pole where it is formed, and where the degrees +of longitude are very small, I am led to believe that these +ice-cliffs extend a good way into the sea, in some parts, especially +in such as are sheltered from the violence of the winds. It may even +be doubted if ever the wind is violent in the very high latitudes. +And that the sea will freeze over, or the snow that falls upon it, +which amounts to the same thing, we have instances in the northern +hemisphere. The Baltic, the Gulph of St Laurence, the Straits of +Belle-Isle, and many other equally large seas, are frequently frozen +over in winter.[12] Nor is this at all extraordinary, for we have +found the degree of cold at the surface of the sea, even in summer, +to be two degrees below the freezing point; consequently nothing kept +it from freezing but the salt it contains, and the agitation of its +surface. Whenever this last ceaseth in winter, when the frost is set +in, and there comes a fall of snow, it will freeze on the surface as +it falls, and in a few days, or perhaps in one night, form such a +sheet of ice as will not be easily broken up. Thus a foundation will +be laid for it to accumulate to any thickness by falls of snow, +without its being at all necessary for the sea-water to freeze. It +may be by this means these vast floats of low ice we find in the +spring of the year are formed, and which, after they break up, are +carried by the currents to the north. For, from all the observations +I have been able to make, the currents every where, in the high +latitudes, set to the north, or to the N.E. or N.W.; but we have very +seldom found them considerable.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 12: Forster the elder, in his observations, has +related many instances of this sort, and given some very ingenious +remarks on the subject of the formation of ice in high latitudes; but +it is impossible to do justice to them within the compass of a note, +and perhaps most readers are of opinion that the text is abundantly +copious on this part of the voyage.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>If this imperfect account of the formation of these extraordinary +floating islands of ice, which is written wholly from my own +observations, does not convey some useful hints to an abler pen, it +will, however, convey some idea of the lands where they are formed: +Lands doomed by Nature to perpetual frigidness; never to feel the +warmth of the sun's rays; whose horrible and savage aspect I have not +words to describe. Such are the lands we have discovered; what then +may we expect those to be which lie still farther to the south? For +we may reasonably suppose that we have seen the best, as lying most +to the north. If any one should have resolution and perseverance to +clear up this point by proceeding farther than I have done, I shall +not envy him the honour of the discovery; but I will be bold to say, +that the world will not be benefited by it.</p> + +<p>I had, at this time, some thoughts of revisiting the place where +the French discovery is said to lie. But then I considered that, if +they had really made this discovery, the end would be as fully +answered as if I had done it myself. We know it can only be an +island; and if we may judge from the degree of cold we found in that +latitude, it cannot be a fertile one. Besides, this would have kept +me two months longer at sea, and in a tempestuous latitude, which we +were not in a condition to struggle with. Our sails and rigging were +so much worn, that something was giving way every hour; and we had +nothing left either to repair or to replace them. Our provisions were +in a state of decay, and consequently afforded little nourishment, +and we had been a long time without refreshments. My people, indeed, +were yet healthy, and would have cheerfully gone wherever I had +thought proper to lead them; but I dreaded the scurvy laying hold of +them at a time when we had nothing left to remove it. I must say +farther, that it would have been cruel in me to have continued the +fatigues and hardships they were continually exposed to, longer than +was absolutely necessary. Their behaviour, throughout the whole +voyage, merited every indulgence which it was in my power to give +them. Animated by the conduct of the officers, they shewed themselves +capable of surmounting every difficulty and danger which came in +their way, and never once looked either upon the one or the other, as +being at all heightened, by our separation from our consort the +Adventure.[13]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 13: "The sour krout, that excellent +anti-scorbutic food, of which sixty large casks were put on board our +ship, was now entirely consumed, and the want of it was severely felt +from the captain down to the sailor. It enabled us to eat our portion +of salt meat, of which it corrected the septic quality. The wish for +a speedy release from this nauseous diet now became universal, and +our continuance in the high latitudes was disagreeable to all on +board."--G.F.]</blockquote> + +<p>All these considerations induced me to lay aside looking for the +French discoveries, and to steer for the Cape of Good Hope; with a +resolution, however, of looking for the isles of Denia and Marseveen, +which are laid down in Dr Halley's variation chart in the latitude of +41° 1/2 S., and about 4° of longitude to the east of the +meridian of the Cape of Good Hope. With this view I steered N.E., +with a hard gale at N.W. and thick weather; and on the 25th, at noon, +we saw the last ice island, being at this time in the latitude of +52° 52' S., longitude 26° 31' E.</p> + +<p>The wind abating and veering to the south, on the first of March, +we steered west, in order to get farther from Mr Bouvet's track, +which was but a few degrees to the east of us, being at this time in +the latitude of 46° 44' S., longitude 33° 20' E., in which +situation we found the variation to be 23° 36' W. It is somewhat +remarkable, that all the time we had northerly winds, which were +regular and constant for several days, the weather was always thick +and cloudy; but, as soon as they came south of west, it cleared up, +and was fine and pleasant. The barometer began to rise several days +before this change happened; but whether on account of it, or our +coming northward, cannot be determined.[14]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 14: It may be worth while preserving here the +remark made by Mr Wales. When off, and in the neighbourhood of +Georgia, the cold was much less severe when the wind blew from the +south, than when it came from the north. He assigns no reason for it, +and perhaps the observations were too limited to place and time to +justify any general inferences. It may, however, be suggested, with +little risk of error, that the northerly wind would be most loaded +with moisture, hence the cloudy sort of weather noticed during its +continuance; and that, on very well-ascertained principles, moisture +is a considerable source of cold.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The wind remained not long at south before it veered round by the +N.E. to the N.W., blowing fresh and by squalls, attended, as before, +with rain and thick misty weather. We had some intervals of clear +weather in the afternoon of the 3d, when we found the variation to be +22° 26' W.; latitude at this time 45° 8' S., longitude +30° 50' E. The following night was very stormy, the wind blew +from S.W. and in excessively heavy squalls. At short intervals +between the squalls the wind would fall almost to a calm, and then +come on again with such fury, that neither our sails nor rigging +could withstand it, several of the sails being split, and a middle +stay-sail being wholly lost. The next morning the gale abated, and we +repaired the damage we had sustained in the best manner we could.</p> + +<p>On the 8th, being in the latitude of 41° 30' S., longitude +26° 51' E., the mercury in the thermometer rose to 61, and we +found it necessary to put on lighter clothes. As the wind continued +invariably fixed between N.W. and W., we took every advantage to get +to the west, by tacking whenever it shifted any thing in our favour; +but as we had a great swell against us, our tacks were rather +disadvantageous. We daily saw albatrosses, peterels, and other +oceanic birds; but not the least sign of land.</p> + +<p>On the 11th, in the latitude of 40° 40' S., longitude 23° +47' E., the variation was 20° 48' W. About noon the same day the +wind shifted suddenly from N.W. to S.W., caused the mercury in the +thermometer to fall as suddenly from 62° to 52°; such was the +different state of the air, between a northerly and southerly wind. +The next day, having several hours calm, we put a boat in the water, +and shot some albatrosses and peterels, which, at this time, were +highly acceptable. We were now nearly in the situation where the +isles which we were in search of, are said to lie; however, we saw +nothing that could give us the least hope of finding them.</p> + +<p>The calm continued till five o'clock of the next morning, when it +was succeeded by a breeze at W. by S., with which we stood to N.N.W., +and at noon observed in latitude 38° 51' S. This was upwards of +thirty miles more to the north than our log gave us; and the watch +shewed that we had been set to the east also. If these differences +did not arise from some strong current, I know not how to account for +them. Very strong currents have been found on the African coast, +between Madagascar and the Cape of Good Hope, but I never heard of +their extending so far from the land; nor is it probable they do. I +rather suppose that this current has no connection with that on the +coast; and that we happened to fall into some stream which is neither +lasting nor regular. But these are points which require much time to +investigate, and must therefore be left to the industry of future +navigators.</p> + +<p>We were now two degrees to the north of the parallel in which the +isles of Denia and Marseveen are said to lie. We had seen nothing to +encourage us to persevere in looking after them, and it must have +taken up some time longer to find them, or to prove their +non-existence. Every one was impatient to get into port, and for good +reasons: As for a long time we had had nothing but stale and salt +provisions, for which every one on board had lost all relish. These +reasons induced me to yield to the general wish, and to steer for the +Cape of Good Hope, being at this time in the latitude of 38° 38' +S., longitude 23° 37' E.</p> + +<p>The next day the observed latitude at noon was only seventeen +miles to the north of that given by the log; so that we had either +got out of the strength of the current, or it had ceased.</p> + +<p>On the 15th the observed latitude at noon, together with the +watch, shewed that we had had a strong current setting to the S.W., +the contrary direction to what we had experienced on some of the +preceding days, as hath been mentioned.[15]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 15: It is highly probable, that both these +currents were branches of the equinoctial current, that flows from +east to west--the first, which was farthest off from land, being on +the return towards the east; and the second, which was found nearer +to the land, having still enough of its original impulse to direct it +onwards by the coast to the southern point of Africa, from which it +would afterwards be deflected. Similar circuits are well known to be +performed by the equinoctial current, in the Atlantic Ocean, on both +sides of the equator.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At day-light, on the 16th, we saw two sail in the N.W. quarter +standing to the westward, and one of them shewing Dutch colours. At +ten o'clock we tacked and stood to the west also, being at this time +in the latitude of 39° 9' S., longitude 22° 38' E.</p> + +<p>I now, in pursuance of my instructions, demanded of the officers +and petty officers, the log-books and journals they had kept; which +were delivered to me accordingly, and sealed up for the inspection of +the Admiralty. I also enjoined them, and the whole crew, not to +divulge where we had been, till they had their lordships' permission +so to do. In the afternoon, the wind veered to the west, and +increased to a hard gale, which was of short duration; for, the next +day, it fell, and at noon veered to S.E. At this time we were in the +latitude of 34° 49' S., longitude 22° E.; and, on sounding, +found fifty-six fathoms water. In the evening we saw the land in the +direction of E.N.E. about six leagues distant; and, during the +fore-part of the night, there was a great fire or light upon it.</p> + +<p>At day-break on the 18th, we saw the land again, bearing N.N.W., +six or seven leagues distant, and the depth of water forty-eight +fathoms. At nine o'clock, having little or no wind, we hoisted out a +boat, and sent on board one of the two ships before-mentioned, which +were about two leagues from us; but we were too impatient after news +to regard the distance. Soon after, a breeze sprung up at west, with +which we stood to the south; and, presently, three sail more appeared +in sight to windward, one of which shewed English colours.</p> + +<p>At one, p.m., the boat returned from on board the Bownkerke +Polder, Captain Cornelius Bosch, a Dutch Indiaman from Bengal. +Captain Bosch, very obligingly, offered us sugar, arrack, and +whatever he had to spare. Our people were told by some English seamen +on board this ship, that the Adventure had arrived at the Cape of +Good Hope twelve months ago, and that the crew of one of her boats +had been murdered and eaten by the people of New Zealand; so that the +story which we heard in Queen Charlotte's Sound was now no longer a +mystery.</p> + +<p>We had light airs next, to a calm till ten o'clock the next +morning, when a breeze sprung up at west, and the English ship, which +was to windward, bore down to us. She proved to be the True Briton, +Captain Broadly, from China. As he did not intend to touch at the +Cape, I put a letter on board him for the secretary of the +Admiralty.</p> + +<p>The account which we had heard of the Adventure was now confirmed +to us by this ship. We also got, from on board her, a parcel of old +newspapers, which were new to us, and gave us some amusement; but +these were the least favours we received from Captain Broadly. With a +generosity peculiar to the commanders of the India Company's ships, +he sent us fresh provisions, tea, and other articles which were very +acceptable, and deserve from me this public acknowledgment. In the +afternoon we parted company. The True Briton stood out to sea, and we +in for the land, having a very fresh gale at west, which split our +fore top-sail in such a manner, that we were obliged to bring another +to the yard. At six o'clock we tacked within four or five miles of +the shore; and, as we judged, about five or six leagues to the east +of Cape Aguilas. We stood off till midnight, when, the wind having +veered round to the south, we tacked, and stood along-shore to the +west. The wind kept veering more and more in our favour, and at last +fixed at E.S.E.; and blew for some hours a perfect hurricane.</p> + +<p>As soon as the storm began to subside, we made sail, and hauled in +for the land. Next day at noon, the Table Mountain over the Cape Town +bore N.E. by E., distant nine or ten leagues. By making use of this +bearing and distance to reduce the longitude shewn by the watch to +the Cape Town, the error was found to be no more than 18' in +longitude, which it was too far to the east. Indeed the difference +found between it and the lunar observations, since we left New +Zealand, had seldom exceeded half a degree, and always the same +way.</p> + +<p>The next morning, being with us Wednesday the 22d, but with the +people here Tuesday the 21st, we anchored in Table Bay, where we +found several Dutch ships; some French; and the Ceres, Captain Newte, +an English East India Company's ship, from China, bound directly to +England, by whom I sent a copy of the preceding part of this journal, +some charts, and other drawings to the Admiralty.</p> + +<p>Before we had well got to an anchor, I dispatched an officer to +acquaint the governor with our arrival, and to request the necessary +stores and refreshments; which were readily granted. As soon as the +officer came back, we saluted the garrison with thirteen guns, which +compliment was immediately returned with an equal number.</p> + +<p>I now learnt that the Adventure had called here, on her return; +and I found a letter from Captain Furneaux, acquainting me with the +loss of his boat, and of ten of his best men, in Queen Charlotte's +Sound. The captain, afterwards, on my arrival in England, put into my +hands a complete narrative of his proceedings, from the time of our +second and final separation, which I now lay before the public in the +following section.</p> + +<p>SECTION VIII.</p> + +<p><i>Captain Furneaux's Narrative of his Proceedings, in the +Adventure, from, the Time he was separated from the Resolution, to +his Arrival in England; including Lieutenant Burney's Report +concerning the Boat's Crew who were murdered by the Inhabitants of +Queen Charlottes Sound</i>.</p> + +<p>After a passage of fourteen days from Amsterdam, we made the coast +of New Zealand near the Table Cape, and stood along-shore till we +came as far as Cape Turnagain. The wind then began to blow strong at +west, with heavy squalls and rain, which split many of our sails, and +blew us off the coast for three days; in which time we parted company +with the Resolution, and never saw her afterwards.</p> + +<p>On the 4th of November, we again got in shore, near Cape Palliser, +and were visited by a number of the natives in their canoes; bringing +a great quantity of cray-fish, which we bought of them for nails and +Otaheite cloth. The next day it blew hard from W.N.W., which again +drove us off the coast, and obliged us to bring-to for two days; +during which time it blew one continual gale of wind, with heavy +falls of sleet. By this time, our decks were very leaky; our beds and +bedding wet; and several of our people complaining of colds; so that +we began to despair of ever getting into Charlotte's Sound, or +joining the Resolution.</p> + +<p>On the 6th, being to the north of the cape, the wind at S.W., and +blowing strong, we bore away for some bay to complete our water and +wood, being in great want of both, having been at the allowance of +one quart of water for some days past; and even that pittance could +not be come at above six or seven days longer. We anchored in Tolaga +Bay on the 9th, in latitude 38° 21' S., longitude 178° 31' +east. It affords good riding with the wind westerly, and regular +soundings from eleven to five fathoms, stiff muddy ground across the +bay for about two miles. It is open from N.N.E. to E.S.E. It is to be +observed, easterly winds seldom blow hard on this shore; but when +they do, they throw in a great sea, so that if it were not for a +great undertow, together with a large river that empties itself in +the bottom of the bay, a ship would not be able to ride here. Wood +and water are easily to be had, except when it blows hard easterly. +The natives here are the same as those at Charlotte's Sound, but more +numerous, and seemed settled, having regular plantations of sweet +potatoes, and other roots, which are very good; and they have plenty +of cray and other fish, which we bought of them for nails, beads, and +other trifles, at an easy rate. In one of their canoes we observed +the head of a woman lying in state, adorned with feathers and other +ornaments. It had the appearance of being alive; but, on examination, +we found it dry, being preserved with every feature perfect, and kept +as the relic of some deceased relation.</p> + +<p>Having got about ten tons of water, and some wood, we sailed for +Charlotte's Sound on the 12th. We were no sooner out than the wind +began to blow hard, dead on the shore, so that we could not clear the +land on either tack. This obliged us to bear away again for the bay, +where we anchored the next morning, and rode out a very heavy gale of +wind at E. by S., which threw in a very great sea. We now began to +fear we should never join the Resolution; having reason to believe +she was in Charlotte Sound, and by this time ready for sea. We soon +found it was with great difficulty we could get any water, owing to +the swell setting in so strong; at last, however, we were able to go +on shore, and got both wood and water.</p> + +<p>Whilst we lay here we were employed about the rigging, which was +much damaged by the constant gales of wind we had met with since we +made the coast. We got the booms down on the decks, and having made +the ship as snug as possible, sailed again on the 16th. After this we +met with several gales of wind off the mouth of the Strait; and +continued beating backwards and forwards till the 30th, when we were +so fortunate as to get a favourable wind, which we took every +advantage of, and at last got safe into our desired port. We saw +nothing of the Resolution, and began to doubt her safety; but on +going ashore, we discerned the place where she had erected her tents; +and, on an old stump of a tree in the garden, observed these words +cut out, "Look underneath." There we dug, and soon found a bottle +corked and waxed down, with a letter in it from Captain Cook, +signifying their arrival on the 3d instant, and departure on the +24th; and that they intended spending a few days in the entrance of +the Straits to look for us.</p> + +<p>We immediately set about getting the ship ready for sea as fast as +possible; erected our tents; sent the cooper on shore to repair the +casks; and began to unstow the hold, to get at the bread that was in +butts; but on opening them found a great quantity of it entirely +spoiled, and most part so damaged, that we were obliged to fix our +copper oven on shore to bake it over again, which undoubtedly delayed +us a considerable time. Whilst we lay here, the inhabitants came on +board as before, supplying us with fish, and other things of their +own manufacture, which we bought of them for nails, etc. and appeared +very friendly, though twice in the middle of the night they came to +the tent, with an intention to steal; but were discovered before they +could get any thing into their possession.</p> + +<p>On the 17th of December, having refitted the ship, completed our +water and wood, and got every thing ready for sea, we sent our large +cutter, with Mr Rowe, a midshipman, and the boat's crew, to gather +wild greens for the ship's company; with orders to return that +evening, as I intended to sail the next morning. But on the boat's +not returning the same evening, nor the next morning, being under +great uneasiness about her, I hoisted out the launch, and sent her +with the second lieutenant, Mr Burney, manned with the boat's crew +and ten marines, in search of her. My orders to Mr Burney were first, +to look well into East Bay, and then to proceed to Grass Cove, the +place to which Mr Rowe had been sent; and if he heard nothing of the +boat there, to go farther up the sound, and come back along the west +shore. As Mr Rowe had left the ship an hour before the time proposed, +and in a great hurry, I was strongly persuaded that his curiosity had +carried him into East Bay, none in our ship having ever been there; +or else, that some accident had happened to the boat, either by going +adrift through the boat-keeper's negligence, or by being stove among +the rocks. This was almost every body's opinion; and on this +supposition, the carpenter's mate was sent in the launch, with some +sheets of tin. I had not the least suspicion that our people had +received any injury from the natives, our boats having frequently +been higher up, and worse provided. How much I was mistaken, too soon +appeared; for Mr Burney having returned about eleven o'clock the same +night, made his report of a horrible scene indeed, which cannot be +better described than in his own words, which now follow.</p> + +<p>"On the 18th, we left the ship; and having a light breeze in our +favour, we soon got round Long Island, and within Long Point. I +examined every cove, on the larboard hand, as we went along, looking +well all around with a spy-glass, which I took for that purpose. At +half past one, we stopped at a beach on the left-hand side going up +East Bay, to boil some victuals, as we brought nothing but raw meat +with us. Whilst we were cooking, I saw an Indian on the opposite +shore, running along a beach to the head of the bay. Our meat being +drest, we got into the boat and put off; and, in a short time, +arrived at the head of this reach, where we saw an Indian +settlement."</p> + +<p>"As we drew near, some of the Indians came down on the rocks, and +waved for us to be gone, but seeing we disregarded them, they altered +their notes. Here we found six large canoes hauled up on the beach, +most of them double ones, and a great many people; though not so many +as one might expect from the number of houses and size of the canoes. +Leaving the boat's crew to guard the boat, I stepped ashore with the +marines (the corporal and five men), and searched a good many of +their houses, but found nothing to give me any suspicion. Three or +four well-beaten paths led farther into the woods, where were many +more houses; but the people continuing friendly, I thought it +unnecessary to continue our search. Coming down to the beach, one of +the Indians had brought a bundle of <i>Hepatoos</i> (long spears), +but seeing I looked very earnestly at him, he put them on the ground, +and walked about with seeming unconcern. Some of the people appearing +to be frightened, I gave a looking-glass to one, and a large nail to +another. From this place the bay ran, as nearly as I could guess, +N.N.W. a good mile, where it ended in a long sandy beach. I looked +all around with the glass, but saw no boat, canoe, or sign of +inhabitant. I therefore contented myself with firing some guns, which +I had done in every cove as I went along."</p> + +<p>"I now kept close to the east shore, and came to another +settlement, where the Indians invited us ashore. I enquired of them +about the boat, but they pretended ignorance. They appeared very +friendly here, and sold us some fish. Within an hour after we left +this place, in a small beach adjoining to Grass Cove, we saw a very +large double canoe just hauled up, with two men and a dog. The men, +on seeing us, left their canoe, and ran up into the woods. This gave +me reason to suspect I should here get tidings of the cutter. We went +ashore, and searched the canoe, where we found one of the +rullock-ports of the cutter, and some shoes, one of which was known +to belong to Mr Woodhouse, one of our midshipmen. One of the people, +at the same time, brought me a piece of meat, which he took to be +some of the salt meat belonging to the cutter's crew. On examining +this, and smelling to it, I found it was fresh. Mr Fannin (the +master) who was with me, supposed it was dog's flesh, and I was of +the same opinion; for I still doubted their being cannibals. But we +were soon convinced by most horrid and undeniable proof."</p> + +<p>"A great many baskets (about twenty) lying on the beach, tied up, +we cut them open. Some were full of roasted flesh, and some of +fern-root, which serves them for bread. On, farther search, we found +more shoes, and a hand, which we immediately knew to have belonged to +Thomas Hill, one of our fore-castle men, it being marked T.H. with an +Otaheite tattow-instrument. I went with some of the people a little +way up the woods, but saw nothing else. Coming down again, there was +a round spot covered with fresh earth, about four feet diameter, +where something had been buried. Having no spade, we began to dig +with a cutlass; and in the mean time I launched the canoe with intent +to destroy her; but seeing a great smoke ascending over the nearest +hill, I got all the people into the boat, and made what haste I could +to be with them before sun-set."</p> + +<p>"On opening the next bay, which was Grass Cove, we saw four +canoes, one single and three double ones, and a great many people on +the beach, who, on our approach; retreated to a small hill, within a +ship's length of the water side, where they stood talking to us. A +large fire was on the top of the high land, beyond the woods, from +whence, all the way down the hill, the place was thronged like a +fair. As we came in, I ordered a musquetoon to be fired at one of the +canoes, suspecting they might be full of men lying down in the +bottom; for they were all afloat, but nobody was seen in them. The +savages on the little hill still kept hallooing, and making signs for +us to land. However, as soon as we got close in, we all fired. The +first volley did not seem to affect them much; but on the second, +they began to scramble away as fast as they could, some of them +howling. We continued firing as long as we could see the glimpse of +any of them through the bushes. Amongst the Indians were two very +stout men, who never offered to move till they found themselves +forsaken by their companions; and then they marched away with great +composure and deliberation; their pride not suffering them to run. +One of them, however, got a fall, and either lay there, or crawled +off on all-fours. The other got clear, without any apparent hurt. I +then landed with the marines, and Mr Fannin staid to guard the +boat."</p> + +<p>"On the beach were two bundles of celery, which had been gathered +for loading the cutter. A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, +to which the natives had tied their canoes; a proof that the attack +had been made here. I then searched all along at the back of the +beach, to see if the cutter was there. We found no boat, but instead +of her, such a shocking scene of carnage and barbarity as can never +be mentioned or thought of but with horror; for the heads, hearts, +and lungs of several of our people were seen lying on the beach, and, +at a little distance, the dogs gnawing their entrails."</p> + +<p>"Whilst we remained almost stupified on the spot, Mr Fannin called +to us that he heard the savages gathering together in the woods; on +which I returned to the boat, and hauling along-side the canoes, we +demolished three of them. Whilst this was transacting, the fire on +the top of the hill disappeared; and we could hear the Indians in the +woods at high words; I suppose quarrelling whether or no they should +attack us, and try to save their canoes. It now grew dark; I +therefore just stepped out, and looked once more behind the beach to +see if the cutter had been hauled up in the bushes; but seeing +nothing of her, returned, and put off. Our whole force would have +been barely sufficient to have gone up the hill; and to have ventured +with half (for half must have been left to guard the boat) would have +been fool-hardiness."</p> + +<p>"As we opened the upper part of the sound, we saw a very large +fire about three or four miles higher up, which formed a complete +oval, reaching from the top of the hill down almost to the +water-side, the middle space being inclosed all round by the fire, +like a hedge. I consulted with Mr Fannin, and we were both of opinion +that we could expect to reap no other advantage than the poor +satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. At leaving Grass +Cove, we had fired a general volley towards where we heard the +Indians talking; but, by going in and out of the boat, the arms had +got wet, and four pieces missed fire. What was still worse, it began +to rain; our ammunition was more than, half expended, and we left six +large canoes behind us in one place. With so many disadvantages, I +did not think it worth while to proceed, where nothing could be hoped +for but revenge."</p> + +<p>"Coming between two round islands, situated to the southward of +East Bay, we imagined we heard somebody calling; we lay on our oars, +and listened, but heard no more of it; we hallooed several times, but +to little purpose; the poor souls were far enough out of hearing, +and, indeed, I think it some comfort to reflect, that in all +probability every man of them must have been killed on the spot."</p> + +<p>Thus far Mr Burney's report; and to complete the account of this +tragical transaction, it may not be unnecessary to mention, that the +people in the cutter were Mr Rowe, Mr Woodhouse, Francis Murphy, +quarter-master; William Facey, Thomas Hill, Michael Bell, and Edward +Jones, fore-castle men; John Cavanaugh, and Thomas Milton, belonging +to the after-guard; and James Sevilley, the captain's man, being ten +in all. Most of these were of our very best seamen, the stoutest and +most healthy people in the ship. Mr Burney's party brought on board +two hands, one belonging to Mr Rowe, known by a hurt he had received +on it; the other to Thomas Hill, as before-mentioned; and the head of +the captain's servant. These, with more of the remains, were tied in +a hammock, and thrown over-board, with ballast and shot sufficient to +sink it. None of their arms nor cloaths were found, except part of a +pair of trowsers, a frock, and six shoes, no two of them being +fellows.</p> + +<p>I am not inclined to think this was any premeditated plan of these +savages; for, the morning Mr Rowe left the ship, he met two canoes, +which came down and staid all the fore-noon in Ship Cove. It might +probably happen from some quarrel which was decided on the spot, or +the fairness of the opportunity might tempt them, our people being so +incautious, and thinking themselves too secure. Another thing which +encouraged the New Zealanders, was, they were sensible that a gun was +not infallible, that they sometimes missed, and that, when +discharged, they must be loaded before they could be used again, +which time they knew how to take advantage of. After their success, I +imagine there was a general meeting on the east side of the sound. +The Indians of Shag Cove were there; this we knew by a cock which was +in one of the canoes, and by a long single canoe, which some of our +people had seen four days before in Shag Cove, where they had been +with Mr Rowe in the cutter.</p> + +<p>We were detained in the Sound by contrary winds four days after +this melancholy affair happened, during which time we saw none of the +inhabitants. What is very remarkable, I had been several times up in +the same cove with Captain Cook, and never saw the least sign of an +inhabitant, except some deserted towns, which appeared as if they had +not been occupied for several years; and yet, when Mr Burney entered +the cove, he was of opinion there could not be less than fifteen +hundred or two thousand people. I doubt not, had they been apprized +of his coming, they would have attacked him. From these +considerations, I thought it imprudent to send a boat up again; as we +were convinced there was not the least probability of any of our +people being alive.</p> + +<p>On the 23d, we weighed and made sail out of the Sound, and stood +to the eastward to get clear of the straits; which we accomplished +the same evening, but were baffled for two or three days with light +winds, before we could clear the coast. We then stood to the S.S.E. +till we got into the latitude of 56° south, without any thing +remarkable happening, having a great swell from the southward. At +this time the wind began to blow strong from the S.W., and the +weather to be very cold; and as the ship was low and deep laden, the +sea made a continual breach over her, which kept us always wet; and +by her straining, very few of the people were dry in bed or on deck, +having no shelter to keep the sea from them.</p> + +<p>The birds were the only companions we had in this vast ocean, +except, now and then, we saw a whale or porpoise; and sometimes a +seal or two, and a few penguins. In the latitude of 58° S., +longitude 213°[16] east, we fell in with some ice, and, every +day, saw more or less, we then standing to the east. We found a very +strong current setting to the eastward; for by the time we were +abreast of Cape Horn, being in the latitude of 61° S., the ship +was a-head of our account eight degrees. We were very little more +than a month from Cape Palliser in New Zealand to Cape Horn, which is +an hundred and twenty-one degrees of longitude, and had continual +westerly winds from S.W. to N.W., with a great sea following.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 16: About 147 west longitude, as I +reckon.]</blockquote> + +<p>On opening some casks of pease and flour, that had been stowed on +the coals, we found them very much damaged, and not eatable; so +thought it most prudent to make for the Cape of Good Hope, but first +to stand into the latitude and longitude of Cape Circumcision. After +being to the eastward of Cape Horn, we found the winds did not blow +so strong from the westward as usual, but came more from the north, +which brought on thick foggy weather; so that for several days +together we could not be able to get an observation, or see the least +sign of the sun. This weather lasted above a month, being then among +a great many islands of ice, which kept us constantly on the +look-out, for fear of running foul of them, and, being a single ship, +made us more attentive. By this time our people began to complain of +colds and pains in their limbs, which obliged me to haul to the +northward to the latitude of 54° S.; but we still continued to +have the same sort of weather, though we had oftener an opportunity +of obtaining observations for the latitude.</p> + +<p>After getting into the latitude above-mentioned, I steered to the +east, in order, if possible, to find the land laid down by Bouvet. As +we advanced to the east, the islands of ice became more numerous and +dangerous; they being much smaller than they used to be; and the +nights began to be dark.</p> + +<p>On the 3d of March, being then in the latitude of 54° 4' S., +longitude 13° E., which is the latitude of Bouvet's discovery, +and half a degree to the eastward of it, and not seeing the least +sign of land, either now or since we have been in this parallel, I +gave over looking for it, and hauled away to the northward. As our +last track to the southward was within a few degrees of Bouvet's +discovery in the longitude assigned to it, and about three or four +degrees to the southward, should there be any land thereabout, it +must be a very inconsiderable island. But I believe it was nothing +but ice: As we, in our first setting out, thought we had seen land +several times, but it proved to be high islands of ice at the back of +the large fields; and as it was thick foggy weather when Mr Bouvet +fell in with it, he might very easily mistake them for land.</p> + +<p>On the seventh, being in the latitude of 48° 30' S., longitude +14° 26' E., saw two large islands of ice.</p> + +<p>On the 17th, made the land of the Cape of Good Hope, and on the +19th anchored in Table Bay, where we found Commodore Sir Edward +Hughes, with his majesty's ships Salisbury and Sea-horse. I saluted +the commodore with, thirteen guns; and, soon after, the garrison with +the same number; the former returned the salute, as usual, with two +guns less, and the latter with an equal number.</p> + +<p>On the 24th, Sir Edward Hughes sailed with the Salisbury and +Sea-horse, for the East Indies; but I remained refitting the ship and +refreshing the people till the 16th of April, when I sailed for +England, and on the 14th of July anchored at Spithead.</p> + +<p>SECTION IX.</p> + +<p><i>Transactions at the Cape of Good Hope; with an Account of some +Discoveries made by the French; and the Arrival of the Ship at St +Helena.</i></p> + +<p>I now resume my own Journal, which Captain Furneaux's interesting +narrative, in the preceding section, had obliged me to suspend.</p> + +<p>The day after my arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, I went on +shore, and waited on the Governor, Baron Plettenberg, and other +principal officers, who received, and, treated us, with the greatest +politeness, contributing all in their power to make it agreeable. +And, as there are few people more obliging to strangers than the +Dutch in general, at this place, and refreshments of all kinds are no +where to be got in such abundance, we enjoyed some real repose, after +the fatigues of a long voyage.</p> + +<p>The good treatment which strangers meet with at the Cape of Good +Hope, and the necessity of breathing a little fresh air, has +introduced a custom, not common any where else (at least I have no +where seen it so strictly observed), which is, for all the officers, +who can be spared out of the ship, to reside on shore. We followed +this custom. Myself, the two Mr Forsters, and Mr Sparrman, took up +our abode with Mr Brandt, a gentleman well known to the English, by +his obliging readiness to serve them. My first care, after my +arrival, was to procure fresh-baked bread, fresh meat, greens, and +wine, for those who remained on board; and being provided, every day +during our stay, with these articles, they were soon restored to +their usual strength. We had only three men on board whom it was +thought necessary to send on shore for the recovery of their health; +and for these I procured quarters, at the rate of thirty stivers, or +half-a-crown, per day, for which they were provided with victuals, +drink, and lodging.</p> + +<p>We now went to work to supply all our defects. For this purpose, +by permission, we erected a tent on shore, to which we sent our casks +and sails to be repaired. We also struck the yards and topmasts, in +order to overhaul the rigging, which we found in so bad a condition, +that almost every thing, except the standing rigging, was obliged to +be replaced with new, and that was purchased at a most exorbitant +price. In the article of naval stores, the Dutch here, as well as at +Batavia, take a shameful advantage of the distress of foreigners.</p> + +<p>That our rigging, sails, etc. should be worn out, will not be +wondered at, when it is known, that during this circumnavigation of +the globe, that is, from our leaving this place to our return to it +again, we had sailed no less than twenty thousand leagues; an extent +of voyage nearly equal to three times the equatorial circumference of +the earth, and which, I apprehend, was never sailed by any ship in +the same space of time before. And yet, in all this great run, which +had been made in all latitudes between 9° and 71, we sprung +neither low-masts, top-mast, lower, nor top-sail yard, nor so much as +broke a lower or top-mast shroud; which, with the great care and +abilities of my officers, must be owing to the good properties of our +ship.</p> + +<p>One of the French ships which were at anchor in the bay, was the +Ajax Indiaman, bound to Pondicherry, commanded by Captain Crozet. He +had been second in command with Captain Marion, who sailed from this +place with two ships, in March 1772, as hath been already mentioned. +Instead of going from hence to America, as was said, he stood away +for New Zealand; where, in the Bay of Isles, he and some of his +people were killed by the inhabitants. Captain Crozet, who succeeded +to the command, returned by the way of the Phillipine Isles, with the +two ships, to the island of Mauritius. He seemed to be a man +possessed of the true spirit of discovery, and to have abilities. In +a very obliging manner he communicated to me a chart, wherein were +delineated not only his own discoveries, but also that of Captain +Kerguelen, which I found laid down in the very situation where we +searched for it; so that I can by no means conceive how both we and +the Adventure missed it.</p> + +<p>Besides this land, which Captain Crozet told us was a long but +very narrow island, extending east and west, Captain Marion, in about +the latitude of 48° south, and from 16° to 30° of +longitude east of the Cape of Good Hope, discovered six islands, +which were high and barren. These, together with some islands lying +between the Line and the southern tropic in the Pacific Ocean, were +the principal discoveries made in this voyage, the account of which, +we were told, was ready for publication.</p> + +<p>By Captain Crozet's chart it appeared, that a voyage had been made +by the French across the South Pacific Ocean in 1769, under the +command of one Captain Surville; who, on condition of his attempting +discoveries, had obtained leave to make a trading voyage to the coast +of Peru. He fitted out, and took in a cargo, in some part of the East +Indies; proceeded by way of the Phillipine Isles; passed near New +Britain; and discovered some land in the latitude of 10° S., +longitude 158° east, to which he gave his own name. From hence he +steered to the south; passed, but a few degrees, to the west of New +Caledonia; fell in with New Zealand at its northern extremity, and +put into Doubtful Bay; where, it seems, he was, when I passed it, on +my former voyage in the Endeavour. From New Zealand Captain Surville +steered to the east, between the latitude of 35° and 41° +south, until he arrived on the coast of America; where, in the port +of Callao, in attempting to land, he was drowned.</p> + +<p>These voyages of the French, though undertaken by private +adventurers, have contributed something towards exploring the +Southern Ocean. That of Captain Surville clears up a mistake which I +was led into, in imagining the shoals off the west end of New +Caledonia, to extend to the west as far as New Holland; it proves +that there is an open sea in that space, and that we saw the N.W. +extremity of that country.</p> + +<p>From the same gentleman, we learnt, that the ship which had been +at Otaheite before our first arrival there this voyage, was from New +Spain; and that, in her return, she had discovered some islands in +the latitude of 32° S., and under the meridian of 130° W. +Some other islands, said to be discovered by the Spaniards, appeared +on this chart; but Captain Crozet seemed to think they were inserted +from no good authorities.</p> + +<p>We were likewise informed of a later voyage undertaken by the +French, under the command of Captain Kerguelen, which had ended much +to the disgrace of that commander.</p> + +<p>While we lay in Table Bay, several foreign ships put in and out, +bound to and from India, viz. English, French, Danes, Swedes, and +three Spanish frigates, two of them going to, and one coming from +Manilla. It is but very lately that the Spanish ships have touched +here; and these were the first that were allowed the same privileges +as other European friendly nations.</p> + +<p>On examining our rudder, the pintles were found to be loose, and +we were obliged to unhang it, and take it on shore to repair. We were +also delayed for want of caulkers to caulk the ship, which was +absolutely necessary to be done before we put to sea. At length I +obtained two workmen from one of the Dutch ships; and the Dutton +English East Indiaman coming in from Bengal, Captain Rice obliged me +with two more; so that by the 26th of April this work was finished: +And having got on board all necessary stores, and a fresh supply of +provisions and water, we took leave of the governor and other +principal officers, and the next morning repaired on board. Soon +after the wind coming fair, we weighed and put to sea; as did also +the Spanish frigate Juno, from Manilla, a Danish Indiaman, and the +Dutton.</p> + +<p>As soon as we were under sail, we saluted the garrison with +thirteen guns; which compliment was immediately returned with the +same number. The Spanish frigate and Danish Indiaman both saluted us +as we passed them, and I returned each salute with an equal number of +guns. When we were clear of the bay the Danish ship steered for the +East Indies, the Spanish frigate for Europe, and we and the Dutton +for St Helena.</p> + +<p>Depending on the goodness of Mr Kendall's watch, I resolved to try +to make the island by a direct course. For the first six days, that +is, till we got into the latitude of 27° S., longitude 11° +1/2 W. of the cape, the winds were southerly and S.E. After this we +had variable light airs for two days; they were succeeded by a wind +at S.E. which continued to the island, except a part of one day, when +it was at N.E. In general the wind blew faint all the passage, which +made it longer than common.</p> + +<p>At day-break in the morning of the 15th of May, we saw the island +of St Helena at the distance of fourteen leagues; and at midnight +anchored in the road before the town, on the N.W. side of the island. +At sun-rise the next morning, the castle, and also the Dutton, +saluted us, each with thirteen guns; on my landing, soon after, I was +saluted by the castle with the same number, and each of the salutes +was returned by the ship.</p> + +<p>Governor Skettowe and the principal gentlemen of the island, +received and treated me, during my stay, with the greatest +politeness; by shewing me every kind of civility in their power.</p> + +<p>Whoever views St Helena in its present state, and can but conceive +what it must have been originally, will not hastily charge the +inhabitants with want of industry. Though, perhaps, they might apply +it to more advantage, were more land appropriated to planting of +corn, vegetables, roots, etc. instead of being laid out in pasture, +which is the present mode. But this is not likely to happen, so long +as the greatest part of it remains in the hands of the company and +their servants. Without industrious planters, this island can never +flourish, and be in a condition to supply the shipping with the +necessary refreshments.</p> + +<p>Within these three years a new church has been built; some other +new buildings were in hand; a commodious landing-place for boats has +been made; and several other improvements, which add both strength +and beauty to the place.</p> + +<p>During our stay here, we finished some necessary repairs of the +ship, which we had not time to do at the Cape. We also filled all our +empty water-casks; and the crew were served with fresh beef, +purchased at five-pence per pound. Their beef is exceedingly good, +and is the only refreshment to be had worth mentioning.</p> + +<p>By a series of observations made at the Cape town, and at James +Fort in St Helena, at the former by Messrs Mason and Dixon, and at +the latter by Mr Maskelyne, the astronomer royal, the difference of +longitude between these two places is 24° 12' 15", only two miles +more than Mr Kendall's watch made. The lunar observations made by Mr +Wales, before we arrived at the island, and after we left it, and +reduced to it by the watch, gave 5° 51' for the longitude of +James Fort; which is only five miles more west than it is placed by +Mr Maskelyne. In like manner the longitude of the Cape Town was found +within 5' of the truth. I mention this to shew how near the longitude +of places may be found by the lunar method, even at sea, with the +assistance of a good watch.[17]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 17: Mr G.F. has communicated several very +interesting particulars respecting St Helena, but it is not judged +proper to insert them in this place, as having no connection with the +purposes of the voyage. A similar remark is applicable to some of the +subjects mentioned in the following section. Another opportunity may, +perhaps, present of giving full information on these +topics.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION X.</p> + +<p><i>Passage from St Helena to the Western Islands, with a +Description of the Island of Ascension and Fernando Noronha.</i></p> + +<p>On the 21st in the evening, I took leave of the governor, and +repaired on board. Upon my leaving the shore, I was saluted with +thirteen guns; and upon my getting under sail, with the Dutton in +company, I was saluted with thirteen more; both of which I +returned.</p> + +<p>After leaving St Helena, the Dutton was ordered to steer N.W. by +W. or N.W. by compass, in order to avoid falling in with Ascension; +at which island, it was said, an illicit trade was carried on between +the officers of the India Company's ships, and some vessels from +North America, who, of late years, had frequented the island on +pretence of fishing whales or catching turtle, when their real design +was to wait the coming of the India ships. In order to prevent their +homeward-bound ships from falling in with these smugglers, and to put +a stop to this illicit trade, the Dutton was ordered to steer the +course above-mentioned, till to the northward of Ascension. I kept +company with this ship till the 24th, when, after putting a packet on +board her for the Admiralty, we parted: She continuing her course to +the N.W., and I steering for Ascension.</p> + +<p>In the morning of the 28th I made the island; and the same evening +anchored in Cross Bay on the N.W. side, in ten fathoms water, the +bottom a fine sand, and half a mile from the shore. The Cross Hill, +so called on account of a cross, or flag-staff erected upon it, bore +by compass S. 38° E.; and the two extreme points of the bay +extended from N.E. to S.W. We remained here till the evening of the +31st, and notwithstanding we had several parties out every night, we +got but twenty-four turtle, it being rather too late in the season; +however, as they weighed between four or five hundred pounds each, we +thought ourselves not ill off. We might have had a plentiful supply +of fish in general, especially of that sort called Old Wives, of +which I have no where seen such abundance. There were also cavalies, +conger eels, and various other sorts; but the catching of any of +these was not attended to, the object being turtle. There are +abundance of goats, and aquatic birds, such as men-of-war and tropic +birds, boobies, etc.</p> + +<p>The island of Ascension is about ten miles in length, in the +direction of N.W. and S.E., and about five or six in breadth. It +shews a surface composed of barren hills and vallies, on the most of +which not a shrub or plant is to be seen for several miles, and where +we found nothing but stones and sand, or rather flags and ashes; an +indubitable sign that the isle, at some remote time, has been +destroyed by a volcano, which has thrown up vast heaps of stones, and +even hills. Between these heaps of stones we found a smooth even +surface, composed of ashes and sand, and very good travelling upon +it; but one may as easily walk over broken glass bottles as over the +stones. If the foot deceives you, you are sure to be cut or lamed, +which happened to some of our people. A high mountain at the S.E. end +of the isle seems to be left in its original state, and to have +escaped the general destruction. Its soil is a kind of white marl, +which yet retains its vegetative qualities, and produceth a kind of +purslain, spurge, and one or two grasses. On these the goats subsist, +and it is at this part of the isle where they are to be found, as +also land-crabs, which are said to be very good.</p> + +<p>I was told, that about this part of the isle is some very good +land on which might be raised many necessary articles; and some have +been at the trouble of sowing turnips and other useful vegetables. I +was also told there is a fine spring in a valley which disjoins two +hills on the top of the mountain above-mentioned; besides great +quantities of fresh water in holes in the rocks, which the person who +gave me this information, believed was collected from rains. But +these supplies of water can only be of use to the traveller; or to +those who may be so unfortunate as to be shipwrecked on the island; +which seems to have been the fate of some not long ago, as appeared +by the remains of a wreck we found on the N.E. side. By what we could +judge, she seemed to have been a vessel of about one hundred and +fifty tons burthen.</p> + +<p>While we lay in the road, a sloop of about seventy tons burthen +came to an anchor by us. She belonged to New York, which place she +left in February, and having been to the coast of Guinea with a cargo +of goods, was come here to take in turtle to carry to Barbadoes. This +was the story which the master, whose name was Greves, was pleased to +tell, and which may, in part, be true. But I believe the chief view +of his coming here, was the expectation of meeting with some of the +India ships. He had been in the island near a week, and had got on +board twenty turtle. A sloop, belonging to Bermuda, had sailed but a +few days before with one hundred and five on board, which was as many +as she could take in; but having turned several more on the different +sandy beaches, they had ripped open their bellies, taken out the +eggs, and left their carcasses to putrify; an act as inhuman as +injurious to those who came after them. Part of the account I have +given of the interior parts of this island I received from Captain +Greves, who seemed to be a sensible intelligent man, and had been all +over it. He sailed in the morning of the same day we did.</p> + +<p>Turtle, I am told, are to be found at this isle from January to +June. The method of catching them is to have people upon the several +sandy bays, to watch their coming on shore to lay their eggs, which +is always in the night, and then to turn them on their backs, till +there be an opportunity to take them off the next day. It was +recommended to us to send a good many men to each beach, where they +were to lie quiet till the turtle were ashore, and then rise and turn +them at once. This method may be the best when the turtle are +numerous; but when there are but few, three or four men are +sufficient for the largest beach; and if they keep patroling it, +close to the wash of the surf, during the night, by this method they +will see all that come ashore, and cause less noise than if there +were more of them. It was by this method we caught the most we got; +and this is the method by which the Americans take them. Nothing is +more certain, than that all the turtle which are found about this +island, come here for the sole purpose of laying their eggs; for we +met with none but females; and of all those which we caught, not one +had any food worth mentioning in its stomach; a sure sign, in my +opinion, that they must have been a long time without any; and this +may be the reason why the flesh of them is not so good as some I have +eat on the coast of New South Wales, which were caught on the spot +where they fed.</p> + +<p>The watch made 8° 45' difference of longitude between St +Helena and Ascension; which, added to 5° 49' the longitude of +James Fort in St Helena, gives 14° 34' for the longitude of the +Road of Ascension, or 14° 30' for the middle of the island, the +latitude of which is 8° S. The lunar observations made by Mr +Wales, and reduced to the same point of the island by the watch, gave +14° 28' 30" west longitude.</p> + +<p>On the 31st of May, we left Ascension, and steered to the +northward with a fine gale at S.E. by E. I had a great desire to +visit the island of St Matthew, to settle its situation; but as I +found the wind would not let me fetch it, I steered for the island of +Fernando de Noronha on the coast of Brazil, in order to determine its +longitude, as I could not find this had yet been done. Perhaps I +should have performed a more acceptable service to navigation, if I +had gone in search of the island of St Paul, and those shoals which +are said to lie near the equator, and about the meridian of 20° +W.; as neither their situation nor existence are well known. The +truth is, I was unwilling to prolong the passage in searching for +what I was not sure to find; nor was I willing to give up every +object, which might tend to the improvement of navigation or +geography, for the sake of getting home a week or a fortnight sooner. +It is but seldom that opportunities of this kind offer; and when they +do, they are too often neglected.</p> + +<p>In our passage to Fernando de Noronha, we had steady fresh gales +between the S.E. and E.S.E., attended with fair and clear weather; +and as we had the advantage of the moon, a day or night did not pass +without making lunar observations for determining our longitude. In +this run, the variation of the compass gradually decreased from +11° W., which it was at Ascension., to 1° W., which we found +off Fernando de Noronha. This was the mean result of two compasses, +one of which gave 1° 37', and the other 23' W.</p> + +<p>On the 9th of June at noon we made the island of Fernando de +Noronha, bearing S.W. by W. 1/2 W., distant six or seven leagues, as +we afterwards found by the log. It appeared in detached and peaked +hills, the largest of which looked like a church tower or steeple. As +we drew near the S.E. part of the isle, we perceived several +unconnected sunken rocks lying near a league from the shore, on which +the sea broke in a great surf. After standing very near these rocks, +we hoisted our colours, and then bore up round the north end of the +isle, or rather round a group of little islets; for we could see that +the land was divided by narrow channels. There is a strong fort on +the one next the main island, where there are several others; all of +which seemed to have every advantage that nature can give them, and +they are so disposed, as wholly to command all the anchoring and +landing-places about the island. We continued to steer round the +northern point, till the sandy beaches (before which is the road for +shipping) began to appear, and the forts and the peaked hills were +open to the westward of the said point. At this time, on a gun being +fired from one of the forts, the Portuguese colours were displayed, +and the example was followed by all the other forts. As the purpose +for which I made the island was now answered, I had no intention to +anchor; and therefore, after firing a gun to leeward, we made sail +and stood away to the northward with a fine fresh gale at E.S.E. The +peaked hill or church tower bore S., 27° W., distant about four +or five miles; and from this point of view it leans, or overhangs, to +the east. This hill is nearly in the middle of the island, which no +where exceeds two leagues in extent, and shews a hilly unequal +surface, mostly covered with wood and herbage.</p> + +<p>Ulloa says, "This island hath two harbours capable of receiving +ships of the greatest burden; one is on the north side, and the other +is on the N.W. The former is, in every respect, the principal, both +for shelter and capacity, and the goodness of its bottom; but both +are exposed to the north and west, though these winds, particularly +the north, are periodical, and of no long continuance." He further +says, "That you anchor in the north harbour (which is no more than +what I would call a road) to thirteen fathoms water, one-third of a +league from shore, bottom of fine sand; the peaked hill +above-mentioned bearing S.W. 2° southerly."[18]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 18: See Don Antonio d'Ulloa's Book, vol. ii. +chap. 3. page 95 to 102, where there is a very particular account of +this islanD.]</blockquote> + +<p>This road seems to be well sheltered from the south and east +winds. One of my seamen had been on board a Dutch India ship, who put +in at this isle in her way out in 1770. They were very sickly, and in +want of refreshments and water. The Portuguese supplied them with +some buffaloes and fowls; and they watered behind one of the beaches +in a little pool, which was hardly big enough to dip a bucket in. By +reducing the observed latitude at noon to the peaked hill, its +latitude will be 3° 53' S.; and its longitude, by the watch, +carried on from St Helena, is 32° 34' W.; and by observations of +the sun and moon, made before and after we made the Isle, and reduced +to it by the watch, 32° 44' 30" W. This was the mean result of my +observations. The results of those made by Mr Wales, which were more +numerous, gave 32° 23'. The mean of the two will be pretty near +the watch, and probably nearest the truth. By knowing the longitude +of this isle, we are able to determine that of the adjacent east +coast of Brazil; which, according to the modern charts, lies about +sixty or seventy leagues more to the west. We might very safely have +trusted to these charts, especially the variation chart for 1744, and +Mr Dalrymple's of the southern Atlantic ocean.[19]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 19: Ulloa says, that the chart places this +island sixty leagues from the coast of Brazil; and that the +Portuguese pilots, who often make the voyage, judge it to be eighty +leagues; but, by taking the mean between the two opinions, the +distance may be fixed at seventy leagues.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 11th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we crossed the +equator in the longitude of 32° 14' W. We had fresh gales at +E.S.E., blowing in squalls, attended by showers of rain, that +continued at certain intervals, till noon the next day, after which +we had twenty-four hours fair weather.</p> + +<p>At noon on the 13th, being in the latitude of 3° 49' N., +longitude 31° 47' W., the wind became variable, between the N.E. +and S.; and we had light airs and squalls by turns, attended by hard +showers of rain, and for the most part dark gloomy weather, which +continued till the evening of the 15th, when, in the latitude of +5° 47' N., longitude 31° W., we had three calm days, in which +time we did not advance above ten or twelve leagues to the north. We +had fair weather and rain by turns; the sky, for the most part, being +obscured, and sometimes by heavy dense clouds which broke in +excessive hard showers.</p> + +<p>At seven o'clock in the evening on the 18th, the calm was +succeeded by a breeze at east, which the next day increasing and +veering to and fixing at N.E., we stretched to N.W. with our tacks on +board. We made no doubt that we had now got the N.E. trade-wind, as +it was attended with fair weather, except now and then some light +showers of rain; and as we advanced to the north the wind increased, +and blew a fresh top-gallant gale.</p> + +<p>On the 21st, I ordered the still to be fitted to the largest +copper, which held about sixty-four gallons. The fire was lighted at +four o'clock in the morning, and at six the still began to run. It +was continued till six o'clock in the evening; in which time we +obtained thirty-two gallons of fresh water, at the expence of one +bushel and a half of coals; which was about three-fourths of a bushel +more than was necessary to have boiled the ship's company's victuals +only; but the expence of fuel was no object with me. The victuals +were dressed in the small copper, the other being applied wholly to +the still; and every method was made use of to obtain from it the +greatest quantity of fresh water possible; as this was my sole motive +for setting it to work. The mercury in the thermometer at noon was +eighty-four and a half, and higher it is seldom found at sea. Had it +been lower, more water, under the same circumstances, would +undoubtedly have been produced; for the colder the air is, the cooler +you can keep the still, which will condense the steam the faster. +Upon the whole, this is an useful invention; but I would advise no +man to trust wholly to it. For although you may, provided you have +plenty of fuel and good coppers, obtain as much water as will support +life, you cannot, with all your efforts, obtain sufficient to support +health, in hot climates especially, where it is the most wanting: For +I am well convinced, that nothing contributes more to the health of +seamen, than having plenty of water.</p> + +<p>The wind now remained invariably fixed at N.E. and E.N.E., and +blew fresh with squalls, attended with showers of rain, and the sky +for the most part cloudy. On the 25th, in the latitude of 16° 12' +N., longitude 37° 20' W., seeing a ship to windward steering down +upon us, we shortened sail in order to speak with her; but finding +she was Dutch by her colours, we made sail again and left her to +pursue her course, which we supposed was to some of the Dutch +settlements in the West Indies. In the latitude of 20° N., +longitude 39° 45' W., the wind began to veer to E. by N. and E.; +but the weather remained the same; that is, we continued to have it +clear and cloudy by turns, with light squalls and showers. Our track +was between N.W. by N. and N.N.W., till noon on the 28th, after which +our course made good was N. by W., being at this time in the latitude +of 21° 21' N., longitude 40° 6' W. Afterwards, the wind began +to blow a little more steady, and was attended with fair and clear +weather. At two o'clock in the morning of the 30th, being in the +latitude of 24° 20' N., longitude 40° 47' W., a ship, +steering to the westward, passed us within hail. We judged her to be +English, as they answered us in that language; but we could not +understand what they said, and they were presently out of sight.</p> + +<p>In the latitude of 29° 30', longitude 41° 30', the wind +slackened and veered more to the S.E. We now began to see some of +that sea-plant, which is commonly called gulph-weed, from a +supposition that it comes from the Gulph of Florida. Indeed, for +aught I know to the contrary, it may be a fact; but it seems not +necessary, as it is certainly a plant which vegetates at sea. We +continued to see it, but always in small pieces, till we reached the +latitude 36°, longitude 39° W., beyond which situation no +more appeared.</p> + +<p>On the 5th of July, in the latitude of 22° 31' 30" N., +longitude 40° 29' W., the wind veered to the east, and blew very +faint: The next day it was calm; the two following days we had +variable light airs and calms by turns; and, at length, on the 9th, +having fixed at S.S.W., it increased to a fresh gale, with which we +steered first N.E. and then E.N.E., with a view of making some of the +Azores, or Western Isles. On the 11th, in the latitude of 36° 45' +N., longitude 36° 45' W., we saw a sail which was steering to the +west; and the next day we saw three more.</p> + +<p>SECTION XI.</p> + +<p><i>Arrival of the Ship at the Island of Fayal, a Description of +the Place, and the Return of the Resolution to England.</i></p> + +<p>At five o'clock in the evening of the 13th, we made the island of +Fayal, one of the Azores, and soon after that of Pico, under which we +spent the night in making short boards. At day-break the next +morning, we bore away for the bay of Fayal, or De Horta, where at +eight o'clock, we anchored in twenty fathoms water, a clear sandy +bottom, and something more than half a mile from the shore. Here we +moored N.E. and S.W., being directed so to do by the master of the +port, who came on board before we dropped anchor. When moored, the +S.W. point of the bay bore S. 16° W., and the N.E. point N. +33° E.; the church at the N.E. end of the town N. 38° W., the +west point of St George's Island N. 42° E., distant eight +leagues; and the isle of Pico, extending from N. 74° E. to S. +46° E., distant four or five miles.</p> + +<p>We found in the bay the Pourvoyeur, a large French frigate, an +American sloop, and a brig belonging to the place. She had come last +from the river Amazon, where she took in a cargo of provision from +the Cape Verd Islands; but, not being able to find them, she steered +for this place, where she anchored about half an hour before us.</p> + +<p>As my sole design in stopping here was to give Mr Wales an +opportunity to find the rate of the watch, the better to enable us to +fix with some degree of certainty the longitude of these islands, the +moment we anchored, I sent an officer to wait on the English consul, +and to notify our arrival to the governor, requesting his permission +for Mr Wales to make observations on shore, for the purpose above +mentioned. Mr Dent, who acted as consul in the absence of Mr +Gathorne, not only procured this permission, but accommodated Mr +Wales with a convenient place in his garden to set up his +instruments; so that he was enabled to observe equal altitudes the +same day.</p> + +<p>We were not more obliged to Mr Dent for the very friendly +readiness he shewed in procuring us this and every other thing we +wanted, than for the very liberal and hospitable entertainment we met +with at his house, which was open to accommodate us both night and +day.</p> + +<p>During our stay, the ship's company was served with fresh beef; +and we took on board about fifteen tons of water, which we brought +off in the country boats, at the rate of about three shillings per +ton. Ships are allowed to water with their own boats; but the many +inconveniencies attending it, more than overbalance the expence of +hiring shore-boats, which is the most general custom.</p> + +<p>Fresh provisions for present use may be got, such as beef, +vegetables, and fruit; and hogs, sheep, and poultry for sea stock, +all at a pretty reasonable price; but I do not know that any +sea-provisions are to be had, except wine. The bullocks and hogs are +very good, but the sheep are small and wretchedly poor.</p> + +<p>The principal produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, with +which they supply Pico and some of the other isles. The chief town is +called Villa de Horta. It is situated in the bottom of the bay, close +to the edge of the sea, and is defended by two castles, one at each +end of the town, and a wall of stone-work, extending along the +sea-shore from the one to the other. But these works are suffered to +go to decay, and serve more for shew than strength. They heighten the +prospect of the city, which makes a fine appearance from the road; +but, if we except the Jesuits' college, the monasteries and churches, +there is not another building that has any thing to recommend it, +either outside or in. There is not a glass window in the place, +except what are in the churches, and in a country-house which lately +belonged to the English consul; all the others being latticed, which, +to an Englishman, makes them look like prisons.</p> + +<p>This little city, like all others belonging to the Portuguese, is +crowded with religious buildings, there being no less than three +convents of men and two of women, and eight churches, including those +belonging to the convents, and the one in the Jesuits' college. This +college is a fine structure, and is situated on an elevation in the +pleasantest part of the city. Since the expulsion of that order, it +has been suffered to go to decay, and will probably, in a few years, +be no better than a heap of ruins.</p> + +<p>Fayal, although the most noted for wines, does not raise +sufficient for its own consumption. This article is raised on Pico, +where there is no road for shipping; but being brought to De Horta, +and from thence shipped abroad, chiefly to America, it has acquired +the name of Fayal Wine.</p> + +<p>The bay, or road of Fayal, is situated at the east end of the +isle, before the Villa de Horta, and facing the west end of Pico. It +is two miles broad, and three quarters of a mile deep, and hath a +semi-circular form. The depth of water is from twenty to ten and even +six fathoms, a sandy bottom, except near the shore, and particularly +near the S.W. head, off which the bottom is rocky, also without the +line which joins the two points of the bay, so that it is not safe to +anchor far out. The bearing before mentioned, taken when at anchor, +will direct any one to the best ground. It is by no means a bad road, +but the winds most to be apprehended, are those which blow from +between the S.S.W. and S.E.; the former is not so dangerous as the +latter, because, with it, you can always get to sea. Besides this +road, there is a small cove round the S.W. point, called Porto +Pierre, in which, I am told, a ship or two may lie in tolerable +safety, and where they sometimes heave small vessels down.</p> + +<p>A Portuguese captain told me, that about half a league from the +road in the direction of S.E., in a line between it and the south +side of Pico, lies a sunken rock, over which is twenty-two feet +water, and on which the sea breaks in hard gales from the south. He +also assured me, that of all the shoals that are laid down in our +charts and pilot-books about these isles, not one has any existence +but the one between the islands of St Michael and St Mary, called +Hormingan. This account may be believed, without relying entirely +upon it. He further informed me, that it is forty-five leagues from +Fayal to the island of Flores; and that there runs a strong tide +between Fayal and Pico, the flood setting to the N.E. and the ebb to +the S.W., but that, out at sea, the direction is E. and W. Mr Wales +having observed the times of high and low water by the shore, +concluded that it must be high water at the full and change, about +twelve o'clock, and the water riseth about four or five feet.</p> + +<p>The distance between Fayal and Flores was confirmed by Mr Rebiers, +lieutenant of the French frigate, who told me, that after being by +estimation two leagues due south of Flores, they made forty-four +leagues on a S.E. by E. course by compass, to St Catherine's Point on +Fayal.</p> + +<pre> + I found the latitude of the ship at anchor 38° 31' 55" N. + in the bay + + By a mean of seventeen sets of lunar 28 24 30 W. + observations, and reduced to the bay + by the watch, the longitude was made + + By a mean of six sets after leaving it, 28 53 22 + and reduced back by the watch + ----------------- + Longitude by observation 28 38 56 + ----------------- + Ditto, by the watch 28 55 45 + + Error of the watch on our arrival at 16 26-1/2 + Portsmouth + ----------------- + True longitude by the watch 28 39 18-1/2 + +</pre> + +<p>I found the variation of the compass, by several azimuths, taken +by different compasses on board the ship, to agree very well with the +like observations made by Mr Wales on shore; and yet the variation +thus found is greater by 5° than we found it to be at sea, for +the azimuths taken on board the evening before we came into the bay, +gave no more than 16° 18' W. variation, and the evening after we +came out 17° 33' W.</p> + +<p>I shall now give some account of the variation, as observed in our +run from the island of Fernando De Noronha to Fayal. The least +variation we found was 37' W. which was the day after we left +Fernando De Noronha, and in the latitude of 33' S., longitude 32° +16' W. The next day, being nearly in the same longitude, and in the +latitude of 1° 25' N., it was 1° 23' W.; and we did not find +it increase till we got into the latitude of 5° N., longitude +31° W. After this our compasses gave different variation, viz. +from 3° 57' to 5° 11' W. till we arrived in the latitude of +26° 44' N., longitude 41° W., when we found 6° W. It then +increased gradually, so that in the latitude of 35° N., longitude +40° W., it was 10° 24' W.; in the latitude of 38° 12' N., +longitude 32° 1/2 W. it was 14° 47'; and in sight of Fayal +16° 18' W., as mentioned above.</p> + +<p>Having left the bay, at four in the morning of the 19th, I steered +for the west end of St George's Island. As soon as we had passed it, +I steered E. 1/2 S. for the Island of Tercera; and after having run +thirteen leagues, we were not more than one league from the west end. +I now edged away for the north side, with a view of ranging the coast +to the eastern point, in order to ascertain the length of the island; +but the weather coming on very thick and hazy, and night approaching, +I gave up the design, and proceeded with all expedition for +England.</p> + +<p>On the 29th, we made the land near Plymouth. The next morning we +anchored at Spithead; and the same day I landed at Portsmouth, and +set out for London, in company with Messrs Wales, Forsters, and +Hodges.</p> + +<p>Having been absent from England three years and eighteen days, in +which time, and under all changes of climate, I lost but four men, +and only one of them by sickness, it may not be amiss, at the +conclusion of this journal, to enumerate the several causes to which, +under the care of Providence, I conceive this uncommon good state of +health, experienced by my people, was owing.</p> + +<p>In the Introduction, mention has been made of the extraordinary +attention paid by the Admiralty in causing such articles to be put on +board, as either from experience or suggestion it was judged would +tend to preserve the health of the seamen. I shall not trespass upon +the reader's time in mentioning them all, but confine myself to such +as were found the most useful.</p> + +<p>We were furnished with a quantity of malt, of which was made +<i>Sweet Wort</i>. To such of the men as shewed the least symptoms of +the scurvy, and also to such as were thought to be threatened with +that disorder, this was given, from, one to two or three pints a-day +each man; or in such proportion as the surgeon found necessary, which +sometimes amounted to three quarts. This is, without doubt, one of +the best anti-scorbutic sea-medicines yet discovered; and, if used in +time, will, with proper attention to other things, I am persuaded, +prevent the scurvy from making any great progress for a considerable +while. But I am not altogether of opinion that it will cure it at +sea.</p> + +<p><i>Sour Krout</i>, of which we had a large quantity, is not only a +wholesome vegetable food, but, in my judgment, highly antiscorbutic; +and it spoils not by keeping. A pound of this was served to each man, +when at sea, twice-a-week, or oftener, as was thought necessary.</p> + +<p><i>Portable Broth</i> was another great article, of which we had a +large supply. An ounce of this to each man, or such other proportion +as circumstances pointed out, was boiled in their pease, three days +in the week; and when we were in places where vegetables were to be +got, it was boiled with them, and wheat or oatmeal, every morning for +breakfast; and also with pease and vegetables for dinner. It enabled +us to make several nourishing and wholesome messes, and was the means +of making the people eat a greater quantity of vegetables than they +would otherwise have done.</p> + +<p><i>Rob of Lemon and Orange</i> is an antiscorbutic we were not +without. The surgeon made use of it in many cases with great +success.</p> + +<p>Amongst the articles of victualling, we were supplied with +<i>Sugar</i> in the room of <i>Oil</i>, and with <i>Wheat</i> for a +part of our <i>Oatmeal</i>; and were certainly gainers by the +exchange. Sugar, I apprehend, is a very good antiscorbutic; whereas +oil (such as the navy is usually supplied with), I am of opinion, has +the contrary effect.</p> + +<p>But the introduction of the most salutary articles, either as +provisions or medicines, will generally prove unsuccessful, unless +supported by certain regulations. On this principle, many years +experience, together with some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliser, +Captains Campbell, Wallis, and other intelligent officers, enabled me +to lay a plan, whereby all was to be governed.</p> + +<p>The crew were at three watches, except upon some extraordinary +occasions. By this means they were not so much exposed to the weather +as if they had been at watch and watch; and had generally dry clothes +to shift themselves, when they happened to get wet. Care was also +taken to expose them as little to wet weather as possible.</p> + +<p>Proper methods were used to keep their persons, hammocks, bedding, +cloaths, etc. constantly clean and dry. Equal care was taken to keep +the ship clean and dry betwixt decks. Once or twice a week she was +aired with fires; and when this could not be done, she was smoked +with gun-powder, mixed with vinegar or water. I had also, frequently, +a fire made in an iron pot, at the bottom of the well, which was of +great use in purifying the air in the lower parts of the ship. To +this, and to cleanliness, as well in the ship as amongst the people, +too great attention cannot be paid; the least neglect occasions a +putrid and disagreeable smell below, which nothing but fires will +remove.</p> + +<p>Proper attention was paid to the ship's coppers, so that they were +kept constantly clean.</p> + +<p>The fat which boiled out of the salt beef and pork, I never +suffered to be given to the people; being of opinion that it promotes +the scurvy.</p> + +<p>I was careful to take in water wherever it was to be got, even +though we did not want it, because I look upon fresh water from the +shore to be more wholesome than that which has been kept some time on +board a ship. Of this essential article we were never at an +allowance, but had always plenty for every necessary purpose. +Navigators in general cannot, indeed, expect, nor would they wish to +meet with such advantages in this respect, as fell to my lot. The +nature of our voyage carried us into very high latitudes. But the +hardships and dangers inseparable from that situation, were in some +degree compensated by the singular felicity we enjoyed, of extracting +inexhaustible supplies of fresh water from an ocean strewed with +ice.</p> + +<p>We came to few places, where either the art of man, or the bounty +of nature, had not provided some sort of refreshment or other, either +in the animal or vegetable way. It was my first care to procure +whatever of any kind could be met with, by every means in my power; +and to oblige our people to make use thereof, both by my example and +authority; but the benefits arising from refreshments of any kind +soon became so obvious, that I had little occasion, to recommend the +one, or to exert the other.</p> + +<p>It doth not become me to say how far the principal objects of our +voyage have been obtained. Though it hath not abounded with +remarkable events, nor been diversified by sudden transitions of +fortune; though my relation of it has been more employed in tracing +our course by sea, than in recording our operations on shore; this, +perhaps, is a circumstance from which the curious reader may infer, +that the purposes for which we were sent into the Southern +Hemisphere, were diligently and effectually pursued. Had we found out +a continent there, we might have been better enabled to gratify +curiosity; but we hope our not having found it, after all our +persevering researches, will leave less room for future speculation +about unknown worlds remaining to be explored.</p> + +<p>But, whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, it +is with real satisfaction, and without claiming any merit but that of +attention to my duty, that I can conclude this account with an +observation, which facts enable me to make; that our having +discovered the possibility of preserving health amongst a numerous +ship's company, for such a length of time, in such varieties of +climate, and amidst such continued hardships and fatigues, will make +this voyage remarkable in the opinion of every benevolent person, +when the disputes about a Southern Continent shall have ceased to +engage the attention, and to divide the judgment of +philosophers.[20]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 20: We cannot better express the importance of +the preservative measures adopted during this voyage, and therefore +the value of the voyage itself, than by quoting a passage from Sir +John Pringle's discourse on assigning to Captain Cook the Royal +Society's Copleyan medal, a distinguished honour conferred on him, +though absent on his last expedition, shortly after having been +elected a member of that illustrious body. "I would enquire of the +most conversant in the study of bills of mortality, whether, in the +most healthful climate, and in the best condition of life, they have +ever found so small a number of deaths, within the same space of +time? How great and agreeable then must our surprise be, after +perusing the histories of long navigations in former days, when so +many perished by marine diseases, to find the air of the sea +acquitted of all malignity, and, in fine, that a voyage round the +world may be undertaken with less danger, perhaps, to health, than a +common tour in Europe!"--"If Rome," he says in conclusion, "decreed +the civic crown to him who saved the life of a single citizen, what +wreaths are due to that man, who, having himself saved many, +perpetuates in your Transactions, (alluding to Captain Cook's paper +on the subject), the means by which Britain may now, on the most +distant voyages, preserve numbers of her intrepid sons, her +<i>mariners</i>; who, braving every danger, have so liberally +contributed to the fame, to the opulence, and to the maritime empire, +of their country?"--An acknowledgement so judicious finds a response +in every breast that knows how to estimate the value of human life +and happiness, and will not fail to secure to the name of Cook, the +grateful applause of every succeeding generation.--E.]</blockquote> + +<h2><a name="vocab" id="vocab">A VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE +SOCIETY ISLES.</a></h2> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>DIRECTIONS</p> + +<p><i>For the Pronunciation of the Vocabulary</i>.</p> + +<p>As all nations who are acquainted with the method of communicating +their ideas by characters, (which represent the sound that conveys +the idea,) have some particular method of managing, or pronouncing, +the sounds represented by such characters, this forms a very +essential article in the constitution of the language of any +particular nation, and must, therefore, be understood before we can +make any progress in learning, or be able to converse in it. But as +this is very complex and tedious to a beginner, by reason of the +great variety of powers the characters, or letters, are endued with +under different circumstances, it would seem necessary, at least in +languages which have never before appeared in writing, to lessen the +number of these varieties, by restraining the different sounds, and +always representing the same simple ones by the same character; and +this is no less necessary in the English than any other language, as +this variety of powers is very frequent, and without being taken +notice of in the following Vocabulary, might render it entirely +unintelligible. As the vowels are the regulations of all sounds, it +is these only that need be noticed, and the powers allotted to each +of these in the Vocabulary is subjoined.</p> + +<p><i>A</i> in the English language is used to represent two +different simple sounds, as in the word Arabia, where the first and +last have a different power from the second. In the Vocabulary this +letter must always have the power, or be pronounced like the first +and last in Arabia. The other power, or sound, of the second +<i>a</i>, is always represented in the Vocabulary by <i>a</i> and +<i>i</i>, printed in Italics thus, <i>ai</i>.</p> + +<p><i>E</i> has likewise two powers, or it is used to represent two +simple sounds, as in the words Eloquence, Bred, Led, etc. and it may +be said to have a third power, as in the words Then, When, etc. In +the first case, this letter is only used at the beginning of words, +and wherever it is met with in any other place in the words of the +Vocabulary, it is used as in the second case: But never as in the +third example; for this power, or sound, is every where expressed by +the <i>a</i> and <i>i</i> before-mentioned, printed in Italics.</p> + +<p><i>I</i> is used to express different simple sounds, as in the +words Indolence, Iron, and Imitation. In the Vocabulary it is never +used as in the first case, but in the middle of words; it is never +used as in the second example, for that sound is always represented +by <i>y</i>, nor is it used as in the last case, that sound being +always represented by two <i>e</i>'s, printed in Italics in this +manner, <i>ee</i>.</p> + +<p><i>O</i> never alters in the pronunciation, i.e. in this +Vocabulary, of a simple sound, but is often used in this manner, +<i>oo</i>, and sounds as in Good, Stood, etc.</p> + +<p><i>U</i> alters, or is used to express different simple sounds, as +in Unity, or Umbrage. Here the letters <i>e</i> and <i>u</i>, printed +in Italics <i>eu</i> are used to express its power as in the first +example, and it always retains the second power, wherever it is met +with.</p> + +<p><i>Y</i> is used to express different sounds, as in My, By, etc. +etc. and in Daily, Fairly, etc. Wherever it is met with in the +middle, or end, (i.e. anywhere but at the beginning,) of a word, it +is to be used as in the first example; but is never to be found as in +the second, for that sound, or power, is always represented by the +Italic letter <i>e</i>. It has also a third power, as in the words +Yes, Yell, etc., which is retained every where in the Vocabulary, at +least in the beginning of words, or when it goes before another +vowel, unless directed to be sounded separately by a mark over it, as +thus, ÿ a.</p> + +<p>Unless in a few instances, these powers of the vowels are used +throughout the Vocabulary; but, to make the pronunciation still less +liable to change, or variation, a few marks are added to the words, +as follows:--</p> + +<p>This mark ¨ as öa, means that these letters are to be +expressed singly.</p> + +<p>The letters in Italic, as <i>ee</i>, or <i>oo</i>, make but one +simple sound.</p> + +<p>When a particular stress is laid on any part of a word in the +pronunciation, an accent is placed over that letter where it begins, +or rather between that and the preceding one.</p> + +<p>It often happens that a word is compounded as it were of two, or +in some cases the same word, or syllable, is repeated. In these +circumstances, a comma is placed under them at this division, where a +rest, or small space, of time is left before you proceed to pronounce +the other part, but it must not be imagined that this is a full +stop.</p> + +<pre> +<i>Examples in all these Cases.</i> + +Röa, Great, long, distant. +E'reema, Five. Ry'poeea, Fog, or mist. +E'hoora, To invert, or turn upside down. +Paroo, roo, A partition, division, or screen. + +A VOCABULARY, etc. + + A. + To abide, or remain Ete'ei. + An Abode, or place of residence, Noho`ra. + Above, not below, Neea, s. Tie'neea. + An Abscess, Fe'fe. + Action, opposed to rest, Ta'eree. + + Adhesive, of an adhesive or sticking + quality Oo'peere. + + Adjoining, or contiguous to, E'peeiho. + + Admiration, an interjection of, A'wai, s. A'wai + to Peereeai. + + An adulterer, Teeho teeho, s. Teeho + or one that vexes a married woman ta-rar + + To agitate, or shake a thing, + as water, etc. Eooa'wai. + + Aliment, or food of any kind, Mäa. + Alive, that is not dead, Waura. + All, the whole, not a part, A'maoo. + Alone, by one's self, Ota'hoi. + + Anger, or to be angry, Warradee, + s. Reedee. + + To angle, or fish, E'hootee. + The Ankle, Momoa. + The inner Ankle, A'tooa,ewy. + Answer, an answer to a question, Oo'maia. + Approbation, or consent, Madooho'why. + Punctuated Arches on the hips, E'var're. + The Arm, Reema. + The Armpit, E'e. + An arrow, E'oome. + Arrow, the body of an arrow or reed, O'wha. + The point of an Arrow, To'ai, s. O'möa. + Ashamed, to be ashamed or confused, Ama, s. He'ama. + Ashore, or on shore, Te Euta. + To ask for a thing, Ho'my, s. Ha'py my. + Asperity, roughness, Tarra, tarra. + + An Assassin,murderer, or rather + man-killer, soldier, Taata,Töa. or + warrior, + + An Assembly, or meeting, Eteou'rooa. Atherina, + A'naiheu. + + Avaricious, parsimonious, ungenerous, Pee'peere. + Averse, unwillingness to do a thing, Fata, hoito' hoito. + Authentic,true, Parou, mou. + Awake, not asleep, Arra arra, s. E'ra. + Awry,or to one side; as a wry neck, Na'na. + An Axe, hatchet, or adze, Töe. + Ay, yes; an affirmation, Ai. + +B. + + A Babe, or child, Mydidde. + A Batchelor, or unmarried person, E'evee (taata.) + The Back, Tooa. + To wipe the Backside, Fy'roo,too'ty. + Bad, it is not good, 'Eè'no. + A Bag of straw, Ete'öe, s.Eäte. + Bait, for fish, Era'eunoo. + Baked in the oven, Etoonoo. + Bald-headed, Oopo'boota. + Bamboo, Eenee'ou. + A Bank, or shoal, E'paa. + + Bare, naked, applied to a person that + is undressed, Ta'turra. + + The Bark of a tree, Ho'hore. + Barren land, Fe'nooa Ma'oure. + A large round Basket of twig, He'na. + A small Basket of cocoa leaves, Vai'hee. + A long Basket of cocoa leaves, Apo'aira. + A Basket of plantain stock, Papa' Maieea. + A fisher's Basket, Er're'vy. + A round Basket of cocoa leaves, Mo'ene. + A Bastard, Fanna Too'neea. + Bastinado, to bastinade or flog a person, Tapra'hai. + To bathe, Ob'oo. + A Battle, or fight, E'motto. + A Battle-axe, O'morre. + To bawl, or cry aloud, Teimo'toro. + A Bead, Pöe. + The Beard, Oome oome. + To beat upon, or strike a thing, Too'py or Too'baee. + To beat a drum, Eroo'koo. + To beckon a person with the hand, Ta'rappe. + A Bed, or bed-place, E'roee, s. Möi'a. + To bedaub, or bespatter, Par'ry. + A Bee, E'räo. + A Beetle, Peere'teee. + Before, not behind, Te'möa. + + A Beggar, a person that is troublesome, Tapa'roo. + continually asking for some-what, + + Behind, not before, Te'mooree. + To belch, Eroo'y. + Below, as below stairs, Tei'dirro, s. Teediraro. + Below, underneath, far below, O'raro. + To bend any thing, as a stick, etc. Fa'fe'fe. + Benevolence, generosity, Ho'röa, + e.g. you are a generous man, Taata ho roa öe. + Between, in the middle, betwixit two, Fero'poo. + To bewail, or lament by crying, E'tatee. + Bigness, largeness, great, Ara'hay. + A Bird, Manoo. + A Bitch, Oore, e'ooha. + To bite, as a dog, A ahoo. + Black, colour, Ere, ere. + Bladder, Töa meeme. + + A Blasphemer, a person who speaks Toona, (taata.) + disrespectfully of their deities, + + Blind, Matta-po. + + A Blister, raised by a burn or + other means, Mei'ee + + Blood, Toto, s. Ehooei. + To blow the nose, Fatte. + The blowing, or breathing of a whale, Ta'hora. + Blunt, as a blunt tool of any sort, Ma'neea. + The carved Boards of a Maray, E'ra. + A little Boat, or canoe, E'väa. + A Boil, Fe'fe. + Boldness, Eäwou. + A Bone, E'evee. + A Bonetto, a fish so called, Peera'ra. + To bore a hole, Ehoo'ee, s. Ehoo'o. + A Bow, E'fanna. + A Bow-string, Aröa'hooa. + To bow with the head, Etoo'o. + A young Boy, My'didde. + Boy, a familiar way of speaking, He'amanee. + The Brain of any animal, A booba. + A Branch of a tree or plant, E'ama. + + Bread-fruit, or the fruit of the + bread-tree, Ooroo. + + Bread-fruit, a particular sort of it, E'patëa. + An insipid paste of Bread-fruit, Eh'öe. + The gum of the Bread-tree, Tappo'ooroo. + The leaf of the Bread-tree, E'da'ooroo. + The pith of the Bread-tree, Po'ooroo. + + To break a thing, O whatte, s. Owhan ne, + s. Fatte. + + The Breast, O'ma + + A Breast-plate made of twigs, ornamented + with feathers, dog's hair, Taoome. + and pearl-shell, + + To breathe, Watte Weete wee + të,'aho. + + Bring, to ask one to bring a thing, Ho'my. + Briskness, being brisk or quick, Tee teere. + Broiled, or roasted, as broiled meat, Ooaweera. + Broken, or cut, 'Motoo. + The Brow, or forehead, E'ry. + A brown colour, Auraura. + Buds of a tree or plant, Te, arre haoo. + A Bunch of any fruit, Eta. + To burn a thing, Döodooe. + A Butterfly, Pepe. + + C. + + To call a person at a distance, Tooo too'ooo. + A Calm, Maneeno. + + A Calm, or rather to be so placed, + that the wind has no access to you, Eou, shea. + + Sugar Cane, Tö, Etöo. + A Cap, or covering for the head Tau'matta. + To carry any thing, E'a'mo. + To carry a person an the back, Eva'ha. + + Catch a thing hastily with the hand, Po'poee, s. Peero. + as a fly, etc. + + To catch a ball, Ama'wheea. + To catch fish with a line, E'hoote. + A Caterpillar, E'tooa. + Celerity, swiftness, Tee'teere, s. E'tirre. + The Centre, or middle of a thing, Tera'poo. + Chalk, Mamma'tëa. + + A Chatterer, or noisy impertinent Taata E'moo, + fellow, s. E'moo. + + Chearfulness, Wara. + The Cheek, Pappareea. + A Chest, 'Peeha. + The Chest, or body, O'poo. + To chew, or eat, E'y. + Chequered, or painted in squares, Poore, poore. + A Chicken, Möa pee'riaia. + + A Chief, or principal person; one of Eäree. + the first rank among the people, + + An inferior Chief, or one who + is only in an independent state, Too'ou + a gentleman, + + Child-bearing, Fanou, e'vaho. + + Children's language, Father, O'pucenoo, and Papa. + Mother, E'wheiarre, & O'pa'tëa. + Brother, E'tama. + Sister, Te'tooa. + + The Chin, and lower jaw, E'taa. + + Choaked, to be choaked as with Epoo'neina, + victuals, etc. s. Eroo'y. + + To chuse, or pick out, Eheee,te,me,my ty. + + Circumcision, or rather an incision Eoore,te hai. + of the foreskin, + + A sort of Clappers,used at funerals, Par'haoo. + + Clapping the bend of the arm smartly E'too. + with the hand, so as to make a noise, + an Indian custom, + + The Claw of a bird, A'ee oo. + Clay, or clammy earth, Ewhou,arra. + Clean, not nasty, Oo'ma, s. Eoo'ee. + Clear, pure; as clear water, etc. Tëa'te. + White clayey Cliffs, E'mammatëa. + Close, shut, Eva'hee. + Cloth of any kind, or rather the covering Ahoo. + or raiments made of it, + + A piece of oblong Cloth, slit in the + middle, through which the head is Teeboota. + put, and it then hangs down behind + and before, + + Brown thin Cloth, Oo'erai. + Dark-brown Cloth, Poo'heere. + Nankeen-coloured Cloth, Aheere, s. Ooa. + Gummed Cloth, Oo'air ara. + + Heappa,heappa, s. + Yellow Cloth, A'ade, poo ee ei, s. + Oora poo'ee ei. + + Cloth, a piece of thin white cloth Paroo'y, by which name + wrapt round the waist, or thrown they also call a white + over the shoulders, shirt. + + A Cloth-beater, or an oblong square To'aa. + piece of wood grooved, and used in + making cloth, + + The Cloth-plant, a sort of mulberry Eaoute. + tree, + + A Cloud, E'äo, s. Eaoo. + A Cock, Möa, e'töa. + Cock, the cock claps his wings Te Moa Paee, paee. + A Cock-roach, Potte potte. + A Cocoa-nut, A'ree. + + The fibrous husk of a Cocoa-nut, Pooroo'waha, + s. Pooroo. + + Cocoa-nut oil, E'rede,väe. + Cocoa leaves, E,ne'haoo. + Coition, E'y. + The sense of Cold, Ma'reede. + A Comb, Pa'horo, s. Pa'herre. + Company, acquaintance, gossips, Tee'ÿa. + Compliance with a request, consent, Madoo,ho'why. + Computation, or counting of numbers, Ta'tou. + + A Concubine, Wa'heine Möebo, + s. Etoo'neea. + + Confusedness, without order, E'vaheea. + Consent, or approbation, Madoo,ho'why. + + Contempt, a name of contempt given Waheine,poo'ha. + to a maid, or unmarried woman, + + Conversation, Paraou,maro, s. + Para'paraou. + + A sort of Convolvulus, or bird-weed, + common in the islands, Ohooe. + + Cook'd, dress'd; not raw, Ee'oo, s. Eee'wera. + To Cool one with a fan, Taha`ree. + Cordage of any kind, Taura. + The Core of an apple, Böe. + + A Cork, or stopper of a bottle or gourd + shell, Ora'hooe. + + A Corner, E'pecho. + + Covering, the covering of a fish's gills, Peee'eya. + + Covetousness, or rather one not inclined + to give, Pee,peere. + + A Cough, Ma're. + To Court, woo a woman, Ta'raro. + Coyness in a woman, No'nöa. + A Crab, Pappa. + + Crab, a large land-crab that climbs + the cocoa-nut trees for fruit, E'oowa. + + A Crack, cleft, or fissure, Motoo. + Crammed, lumbered, crowded, Ooa,peea'pe,s.Ehotto. + The Cramp, Emo'too too. + A Cray-fish, O'oora. + To Creep on the hands and feet, Ene'ai. + Crimson colour, Oora oora. + Cripple, lame, Tei'tei. + Crooked, not straight, Ooo'peeo. + To crow as a cock, A'a ooa. + The Crown of the head, Too'pooe. + To cry, or shed tears, Taee. + + A brown Cuckoo, with black bars and + a long tail, frequent in the isles, Ara'werewa. + + To cuff, or slap the chops, E'paroo. + + Curlew, a small curlew or whimbrel + found about the rivulets, Torëa. + + Cut, or divided, Motoo. + To cut the hair with scissars, O'tee. + + D. + + A Dance, Heeva. + + Darkness, Poee'ree, + s. Pooo'ree + + To Darn O'ono + A Daughter, Ma'heine. + + Day, or day-light, Mara'marama, s. + A'ou, s. A'aou. + + Day-break, Oota'taheita. + Day, to-day, Aoo'nai. + Dead, Matte röa. + A natural Death, Matte nöa. + Deafness, Ta'reea, tooree. + Decrepid, Epoo'tooa. + Deep water, Mona'. + A Denial, or refusal, Ehoo'nöa. + To desire, or wish for a thing, Eooee. + A Devil, or evil spirit, E'tee. + Dew, Ahe'aoo. + A Diarrhoea, or looseness, Hawa, hawa. + + To dip meat in salt water instead of Eawee'wo + salt, (an Indian custom,) + + Dirt, or nastiness of any kind, E'repo. + Disapprobation, Ehoonöa. + + A Disease, where the head cannot be E'pee. + held up, perhaps the palsy, + To disengage, untie or loosen, Eaoo'wai. + Dishonesty, Eee'a. + + Displeased, to be displeased, vexed, or Taee'va. + in the dumps, + + Dissatisfaction, to grumble, or be Faoo'oue. + dissatisfied, + + Distant, far off, Röa. + + To distort, or writhe the limbs, body, Faee'ta. + lips, etc. + + To distribute, divide or share out, Atoo'ha. + A District, Matei na. + A Ditch, Eö'hoo. + To dive under water, Eho'poo. + A Dog, Oo'ree. + A Doll made of cocoa-plants, Adoo'a. + A Dolphin, A'ouna. + + Done, have done; or that is enough, A'teera. + or there is no more, + + A Door, Oo'boota. + + Double, or when two things are in Tau'rooa. + one, as a double canoe, + + Down, or soft hair, E'waou, + To draw a bow, Etëa. + + To draw, or drag a thing by force, Era'ko. + Dread, or fear, Mattou. + Dress'd, or cooked, not raw, Ee'oo. + A head Dress, used at funerals, Pa'raee. + To dress, or put on the cloaths, Eu, hau'hooo t'Ahoo. + To drink, Aee'noo. + Drop, a single drop of any liquid, Oo,ata'hai. + + To drop, or leak, Eto'tooroo, s. + E'tooroo. + + Drops, as drops of rain, To'potta. + Drowned, Parre'mo. + A Drum, Pa'hoo. + Dry, not wet, Oo'maro. + A Duck, Mora. + A Dug, teat, or nipple, Eoo. + Dumbness, E'faö. + + E. + + The Ear, Ta'reea. + The inside of the Ear, Ta'tooree. + An Ear-ring, Poe note tareea. + To eat, or chew, E'y, s. Mäa. + An Echinus, or sea-egg, Heawy. + Echo, Tooo. + An Egg of a bird, Ehooero te Manoo. + A white Egg-bird, Pee'ry. + Eight, A'waroo. + The Elbow, Too'ree. + + Empty, Oooata'aö, + s. Tata'ooa. + + An Enemy, Taata'e. + Entire, whole, not broke, Eta, Eta. + Equal, Oohy'tei. + Erect, upright, Etoo. + A Euphorbium tree, with white flowers, Te'tooee. + The Evening, Ooohoi'hoi. + Excrement, Too'ty. + To expand, or spread out cloth, etc. Ho'hora. + The Eye, Matta. + The Eye-brow, and eye-lid, Tooa, matta. + + F. + + The Face, E'moteea. + + To hide or hold the Face away, as + when ashamed, Faree'wai. + Facetious, merry, Faatta atta. + Fainting, to faint, Möe,mo'my. + To fall down, Topa. + False, not true, Ha'warre. + A Fan, or to fan the face or cool it, Taha'ree. + To fart, or a fart, Ehoo. + Fat, full of flesh, lusty, Peea. + The fat of meat, Maee. + A Father Medooa tanne. + A step-father, Tanne, te höa. + Fatigued, tired, E'hei'eu,s.Faea. + Fear, Mattou. + + A Feather, or quill, Hooroo, hooroo, + manoo. + + Red Feathers, Ora, hooroo te manoo. + Feebleness, weakness, Fara'ra, s. Tooro'ree. + The sense of Feeling, Fa'fa. + To feel, Tear'ro. + A young clever dexterous Fellow, or boy, Te'my de pa'aree. + The Female kind of any animal, E'ooha. + The Fern-tree, Ma'mooo. + Fertile land, Fenooa,maa. + Fetch, go fetch it, Atee. + Few in number, Eote. + To fight, E'neotto. + A Fillip, with the fingers, Epatta. + The Fin of a fish, Tirra. + To finish, or make an end, Eiote. + A Finger, E'reema. + Fire, Ea'hai. + A flying Fish, Mara'ra. + A green flat Fish, Eeume. + A yellow flat Fish, Oo'morehe. + A flat green and red Pai'ou. + The cuckold Fish, Etata. + A Fish, Eya. + + Fishing wall for hauling the seine at Epa. + the first point, + + A Fish pot, E'wha. + + A long Fishing rod of Bamboo, used Ma'keera. + to catch bonettoes, etc., + + A Fissure, or crack, Motoo. + Fist, to open the fist, Ma'hora. + Fist, striking with the fist in dancing, A'moto. + A fly Flapper, or to flap flies, Dahee'ere e'reupa. + + Flatness, applied to a nose, or a vessel + broad and flat; also a spreading + flat topt tree, Papa. + + A red Flesh mark, Eee'da. + To float on the face of the water, Pa'noo. + The Flower of a plant, Pooa. + Open Flowers, Teearre'oo wa. + + Flowers, white odoriferous flowers, + used as ornaments in the ears, Teearre tarreea. + + Flown, it is flown or gone away, Ma'houta. + A Flute, Weewo. + A black Fly-catcher, a bird so called, O'mamäo. + A Fly, Poore'hooa. + To fly, as a bird, E'raire. + Fog, or mist, Ry'poeea. + To fold up a thing, as cloth, etc. He'fetoo. + + A Fool, scoundrel, or other epithet of + contempt, Ta'ouna. + + The Foot, or sole of the foot, Tapooy. + The Forehead, E'ry. + Forgot, or lost in memory, Oo'aro. + Foul, dirty, nasty, Erepo. + A Fowl, Möa. + Four, E'ha. + The Frapping of a flute, Ahëa. + Freckles, Taina. + Fresh, not salt, Eanna,anna. + Friction, rubbing, E'oo ee. + + Friend, a method of addressing a + stranger, Ehöa + + A particular Friend, or the salutation E'apatte. + to him, + + To frisk, to wanton, to play, E'hanne. + + From there, No,reira, + s. No,reida. + + From without, No,waho'oo. + From before, No,mooa. + Fruit, 'Hoo'ero. + + Perfume Fruit from Tethuroa, a + small island, Hooero te manoo. + + A yellow Fruit, like a large plumb + with a rough core, A'vee. + + Full, satisfied with eating, Pÿa,s.Oo'pÿa, + s.'Paÿa. + + A Furunculus, or a small hard boil, Apoo. + + G. A Garland of flowers, A'voutoo, + s. A'routoo + Ef ha, apai. + + Generosity, benevolence, Ho'röa. + A Gimblet, Eho'oo. + A Girdle, Ta'tooa. + A Girl, or young woman, Too'neea. + A Girthing manufacture, Tatoo'y. + To give a thing, Höa'too. + A looking-Glass, Heeo'eeota. + + A Glutton, or great eater, Taata A'ee, s. + Era'pöa nooe. + + To go, or move from where you stand Harre. + to walk + + To go, or leave a place, Era'wa. + Go, begone, make haste and do it, Haro. + Go and fetch it, Atee. + + Good, it is good, it is very well, My`ty, s. + Myty,tye, + s. Maytay. + + Good-natured, Mama'hou, + s. Ma'roo. + + A Grandfather, Too'boona. + A Great-grandfather, Tooboona tahe'too. + A Great great-grandfather, Ouroo. + A Grandson, Mo'boona. + To grasp with the hand, Hara'waai. + + Grasping the antagonist's thigh when Tomo. + dancing, + + Grass, used on the floors of their Ano'noho. + houses, + + To grate cocoa-nut kernel, E'annatehea'ree. + Great, large, big, Ara'hai. + Green colour, Poore poore. + To groan, Eroo,whe. + The groin, Ta'pa. + To grow as a plant, etc. We'rooa. + To grunt, or strain, Etee,toowhe. + The blind Gut, Ora'booboo. + The Guts of any animal, A'aoo. + + H. + The Hair of the head, E'roroo, + s. E'rohooroo. + + Grey Hair, Hinna'heina. + Red Hair, or a red-headed man, E'hoo. + Curled Hair, Peepee. + Woolly frizzled Hair, Oë'töeto. + To pull the Hair, E'woua. + Hair, tied on the crown of the head, E'poote. + Half of any thing, Fa'eete. + A Hammer, Etee'te. + Hammer it out, Atoo'bianoo. + The Hand, E'reema. + A deformed Hand, Peele'oi. + A motion with the Hand in dancing, O'ne o'ne. + A Harangue, or speech, Oraro. + A Harbour, or anchoring-place, Too'tou. + Hardness, E'ta,e'ta. + A Hatchet, axe, or adze, Töe. + He, Nana. + The Head, Oo'po. + A shorn Head, E'voua. + + The Head-ache, in consequence of + drunkenness, Eana`neea. + + The sense of Hearing, Faro. + The Heart of an animal, A'houtoo. + Heat, warmth, Mahanna,hanna. + Heavy, not light, Teima'ha. + The sea Hedge-hog, Totera. + A blue Heron, Otoo. + A white Heron, Tra'pappa. + To hew with an axe, Teraee. + + Hibiscus, the smallest species of Hibiscus, + with rough seed cases, that adhere + to the clothes in walking, Peere,peere. + + Hibiscus, a species of Hibiscus with + large yellow flowers, Pooo'rou. + + The Hiccup, Etoo'ee, + s. Eoo'wha. + + Hide, to hide a thing, E'hoona. + High, or steep, Mato. + + A Hill, or mountain, Maoo, + s. Maoo'a, + s. Moua. + + One-tree Hill, a hill so called in + Matavia Bay, Tal'ha. + + To hinder, or prevent, Tapëa. + The Hips, E'tohe. + + Hips, the black punctuated part of Tamo'rou. + the hips, + + To hit a mark, Ele'baou, + s. Wa'poota. + + Hiss, to hiss or hold out the finger at Tee'he. + one, + + Hoarseness, E'fäo. + A Hog, Böa. + To hold fast, Mou. + Hold your tongue, be quiet or silent, Ma'moo, + A Hole, as a gimblet hole in wood,etc, E'rooa, s. Poota. + To hollow, or cry aloud to one, Too'o. + To keep at Home, Ate'ei te Efarre. + Honesty, Eea'oure. + A fish Hook, Ma'tau. + A fish Hook of a particular sort, Weete,weete. + + The Horizon, E'paee, + no t'Eraee. + + Hot, or sultry air, it is very hot, Pohee'a. + A House, E'farre, s. Ewharre. + A House of office, Eha'moote. + A large House, Efarre'pota. + A House on props, A'whatta. + An industrious Housewife, Ma'heine Amau'hattoi + How do you, or how is it with you, Tehanoöe. + Humorous, droll, merry, Fa,atta,'atta. + + Hunger, Poro'ree, + s. Poee'a. + + A Hut, or house, E'farre. + + I + + I, myself, first person singular, Wou(1) Mee.(2) + The lower Jaw, E'ta. + Idle, or lazy, Tee'py. + + Jealousy in a woman, Ta'boone, s.Fatee + no, s. Hoo'hy. + + Ignorance, stupidity, Weea'ta. + Ill-natured, cross, Oore, e'eeore. + An Image of a human figure, E'tee. + Imps, the young imps, Tëo'he. + Immature, unripe, as unripe fruit, Poo. + Immediately, instantly, To'hyto. + Immense, very large, Röa. + Incest, or incestuous, Ta'wytte. + Indigent, poor, necessitous, Tee,tee. + Indolence, laziness, Tee'py. + Industry, opposed to idleness, Taee'a. + Inhospitable, ungenerous, Pee'peere. + To inform, E'whäe. + A sort of Ink, used to punctuate, E'rahoo. + An inquisitive tattling woman, Maheine Opotaieehu. + To interrogate, or ask questions, Faeete. + To invert, or turn upside down, E'hoora, tela'why. + An Islet, Mo'too. + The Itch, an itching of any sort, Myro. + To jump, or leap, Mahouta, s. Araire. + + K. + Keep it to yourself, Vaihee'o. + The Kernel of a cocoa-nut, Emo'teea. + To kick with the foot, Ta'hee. + The Kidnies, Fooa'hooa. + Killed, dead, Matte. + To kindle, or light up, Emäa. + A King, Eäree,da'hai. + A King-fisher, the bird to called, E'rooro. + To kiss, E'hoee. + Kite, a boy's play-kite, O'omo. + The Knee, E'tooree. + To kneel, Too'tooree. + A Knot, Ta'pona. + A double Knot, Va'hodoo. + + The female Knot formed on the upper Teebona. + part of the garment, and on one + side, + + To know, or understand, Eete. + The Knuckle, or joint of the fingers, Tee,poo. + + L. + + To labour, or work, Ehëa. + A Ladder, Era'a, s. E'ara. + + A Lagoon, Ewha'ouna, + s.Eä'onna. + + Lame, cripple, Tei'tei. + A Lance, or spear, Täo. + + Land in general, a country, Fe'nooa, + s. Whe'nooa. + + Language, speech, words, Pa'raou. + + Language, used when dancing, Timoro'dee, + te'Timoro'dee. + + + + Largeness, when applied to a country, Ara'hai. + country,etc. Nooe. + + To laugh, Atta. + Laziness, Tee'py. + Lean, the lean of meat, Aëo. + Lean,slender, not fleshy, Too'hai. + To leap, Ma'houta, + s. A'rere. + + Leave it behind, let it remain, 'Vaihëo. + To leave, E'wheeoo. + The Leg, A'wy. + Legs, my legs ache, or are tired, A'hooa. + A Liar, Taata,ha'warre. + + To lie down, or along, to rest one's + self, Ete'raha, + s. Te'poo. + + To lift a thing up, Era'wai. + Day Light, Mara'marama. + Light, or fire of the great people Toutoi,papa. + Light, or fire of the common people, Neeao,papa. + + Light, to light or kindle the fire, A'toonoo + t'Eee'wera. + + Light, not heavy, Ma'ma. + Lightning, Oo'waira. + The Lips, Ootoo. + Little, small, Eete. + A Lizard, 'Möo. + Loathsome, nauseous, E,a'wawa. + A sort of Lobster, frequent in the isles, Teeonai. + To loll about, or be lazy, Tee'py. + To loll out the tongue, Ewha'toroo t'Arere. + To look for a thing that is lost, Tapoonee. + A Looking-glass, Heeo'ee'otta. + Loose, not secure, Aoo'weewa. + A Looseness, or purging, Hawa,'hawa. + To love, Ehe'naroo. + Lover, courtier, wooer, Ehoo'nöa. + A Louse, Oo'too. + + Low, not high, as low land, etc. Hëa,hëa, s. Papoo. + Eee'öa. + + The Lungs, Teetoo,'arapoa. + Lusty, fat, full of flesh, Oo'peea. + +M. + + Maggots, E'hoohoo. + A Maid, or young woman , Too'neea. + To make the bed, Ho'hora, te Möe'ya. + The Male of any animal, male kind, E'öta. + A Man, Täata, s. Taane. + An indisposed or insincere Man, Täata,ham'aneeno. + A Man-of-war bird, Otta'ha. + + Many, a great number, Wo'rou,wo'rou, + s. manoo, manoo. + + A black Mark on the skin, Eee'ree. + Married, as a married man, Fanou'nou. + A Mat, E'vanne. + A silky kind of Mat, Möe'a. + + A rough sort of Mat, cut in the Poo'rou. + middle to admit the head, + + A Mast of a ship or boat, Teera. + Mature, ripe; as ripe fruit, Para, s. Pe. + Me, I, Wou, s. Mee. + A Measure, E'a. + To measure a thing, Fa'eete. + To meet one, Ewharidde. + + To melt, or dissolve a thing, Too'tooe. + as grease etc. + + The middle, or midst of a thing, Teropoo. + Midnight, O'toora,hei'po. + To mince, or cut small, E'poota. + Mine, it is mine, or belongs to me, No'oo. + To miss, not to hit a thing, Oo'happa. + Mist, or fog, Ry'poeea. + To mix things together, A'pooe,'pooe. + To mock or scoff at one, Etoo'hee. + Modesty, Mamma'haoo. + Moist, wet, Wara'ree. + A Mole upon the skin, Atoo'nöa. + A lunar Month, Mara'ma. + A Monument to the dead, Whatta'rau. + The Moon, Mara'ma. + The Morning, Oo'poee'poee. + To-morrow, Bo'bo, s. A,Bo'bo. + The day after to-morrow, A'bo'bo doora. + The second day after to-morrow; Poee,poee,addoo. + A Moth, E,pepe. + A Mother, Ma'dooa, wa'heine. + A motherly, or elderly woman, Pa'tëa. + Motion, opposed to rest, Ooa'ta. + A Mountain, or hill, Maooa, s. Moua. + Mountains of the highest order, Moua tei'tei. + Mountains of the second order, Moua 'haha. + Mountains of the third or lowest + order, Pere'raou. + Mourning, 'Eeva. + + Mourning leaves, viz. those of the Ta'paoo. + cocoa-tree, used for that purpose, + + The Mouth, Eva'ha. + To open the Mouth, Ha'mamma. + A Multitude, or vast number, Wo'rou, wo'rou. + Murdered, killed, Matte, s. matte röa. + A Murderer, Taata töa. + A Muscle-shell, Nou,ou. + Music of any kind, Heeva. + + A Musket, pistol, or firearms Poo,poo, s. Poo. + of any kind, + + Mute, silent, Fatebooa. + To matter, or stammer, E'whaou. + +N. + + The Nail of the fingers, Aee'oo. + A Nail of iron, Eure. + + Naked, i. e. with the clothes off, Ta'lurra. + undressed, + + The Name of a thing, Eee'oo. + Narrow, strait, not wide, Peere,peere. + Nasty, dirty, not clean, E,repo. + A Native, Taata'tooboo. + The Neck, A'ee. + Needles, Narreeda. + A fishing Net, Oo'paia. + New, young, sound, Hou. + Nigh, Poto, s. Whatta'ta. + Night, Po, s. E'aoo. + To-Night, or to-day at night, A'oone te' Po. + Black Night-shade, Oporo. + Nine, A'eeva. + The Nipple of the breast, E'oo. + A Nit, Eriha. + + [1] Ay'ma, [2] Yaiha, + No, a negation, [3]A'oure, [4] Aee, + [5] Yehaeea. + + To nod, A'touou. + Noisy, chattering, impertinent, Emoo. + Noon, Wawa'tea. + The Nostrils, Popo'hëo. + Numeration, or counting of numbers, Ta'tou. + A cocoa Nut, Aree. + + A large compressed Nut,that tastes Eeehee. + like chesnuts when roasted, + + O. + + Obesity, corpulence, Ou'peea. + The Ocean, Ty, s. Meede. + Odoriferous, sweet-smelled, No'nöa. + Perfumed Oil they put on the hair, Mo'nöe. + + An Ointment,plaister, or any thing E'ra'paoo. + that heals or relates to medicine, + + Old, Ora'wheva. + One, A'tahai. + Open, clear, spacious, Ea'tëa. + Open, not shut, Fe'rei. + To open, Te'haddoo. + Opposite to, or over against, Wetoo'wheitte. + + Order, in good order, regular, without Wara'wara. + confusion, + + Ornament, any ornament for the ear, Tooee ta'reea. + + Burial Ornaments, viz. nine noits Ma'ray Wharre. + stuck in the ground, + + An Orphan, Oo'hoppe, + poo'aia. + + Out, not in, not within, Teiwe'ho. + The Outside of a thing, Ooa'pee. + An Oven in the ground, Eoo'moo. + Over, besides, more than the quantity, Te'harra. + To overcome, or conquer, E'ma'ooma. + To overturn, or overset, Eha'paoo. + An Owner E'whattoo. + A large species of Oyster, I'teëa. + The large rough Oyster, or Spondylus, Paho'öa. + + P. + + The Paddle of a canoe, or to paddle, E'höe. + To paddle a canoe's head to the right What'tëa. + To paddle a canoe's head to the left, Wemma. + Pain, or soreness,the sense of pain, Ma'my. + A Pair, or two of any thing together, Ano'ho. + The Palate, E'ta'nea. + The Palm of the hand, Apoo'reema. + To Pant, or breathe quickly, Oo'pou'pou,tëa'ho. + Pap, or child's food, Mamma. + A Parent, Me'dooa. + A small blue Parroquet, E'veenee. + + A green Parroquet, with a E'a'a. + red forehead, + + The Part below the tongue, Eta'raro. + A Partition, division, or screen, Paroo'roo. + A Pass, or strait, E,aree'ëa. + + A fermented Paste, of bread, + fruit and others, Ma'hee. + + A Path, or road, Eä'ra. + The Pavement before a house or hut, Pÿe,pye. + A Pearl, Pöe. + The Peduncle, and stalk of a plant, A'mäa, s. E'atta. + + To peel or take the skin off a + cocoa-nutetc. A'tee, s. E'atee. + + Peeled, it is peeled, Me'atee. + A Peg to hang a bag on, 'Pe'aoo. + + A Pepper-plant, from the root of + which they prepare an inebriating + liquor, Awa. + + Perhaps, it may be so, E'pa'ha. + Persons of distinction, Patoo'nehe. + A Petticoat of plantane leaves, AArou'maieea. + Petty, small, trifling, opposed to Nooe, Ree. + + A Physician, or person who + attends the sick, Taata no E'rapaoo. + + Pick, to pick or choose, Ehee te mai my ty. + A large wood Pigeon, Eroope. + + A large green and white Pigeon, Oo'oopa. + + A small black and white Pigeon, + with purple wings, Oooowy'deroo. + + A Pimple, Hooa'houa. + To Pinch with, the fingers, Ooma. + A Plain, or flat, E'peeho. + Plane, smooth, Pa'eea. + A Plant of any kind, O'mo. + A small Plant, E'rabo. + The fruit of a Plantane-tree Maiee'a, s. Maya. + Horse Plantanes, Fai'ee. + + Pleased, good humoured, not cross or Maroo. + surly, + + Pluck it up, Areete. + To pluck hairs from the beard, Hoohootee. + To plunge a thing in the water, E,oo'whee. + The Point of any thing, Oë,öe, or Oi,oi. + Poison, bitter, Awa,awa. + A Poll, Oora'hoo. + Poor, indigent, not rich, Tee'tee. + A bottle-nosed Porpoise, E'oua. + Sweet Potatoes, Oo'marra. + To pour out any liquid substance, Ma'nee. + Pregnant with young, Waha'poo. + + To press, or squeeze the legs gently + with the hand, when tired or pained, Roro'mee. + + Prick, to prick up the ears, Eoma te ta'ree. + A Priest, Ta'houa. + Prone, or face downwards, Tee'opa. + A sort of Pudding, made of fruits, + oil, etc. Po'po'ee. + + Pumpkins, A'hooa. + To puke, or vomit, E'awa, s. e'roo'y. + Pure, clear, E'oo'ee. + A Purging, or looseness, Hawa,hawa. + + To pursue, and catch a person who Eroo,Eroo, + has done some mischief, s. Eha'roe. + + To push a thing with the hand, Too'raee. + Put it up, or away, Orno. + + Q. + + Quickness, briskness, E'tirre. + To walk quickly, Harre'neina. + + Quietness, silence, a silent or seemingly + thoughtful person, Falle'booa. + + A Quiver for holding arrows, 'Peeha. + + R. + + A small black Rail, with red eyes, Mai'ho. + + A small black Rail, spotted and + buured with white, Pooa'nee. + + Rain, E'ooa. + A Rainbow, E'nooa. + Raft, a raft of bamboo, Maito'e. + Rank, strong, urinous, Ewão wao. + A Rasp, or file, Ooee. + A Rat, 'Yore, s. Eyore. + + Raw meat, flesh that is not dressed E'otta. + cooked, + + Raw fruit, as plantanes, etc. that are Paroure. + not baked + + To recline, or lean upon a thing, E'py. + + Red colour, Oora,oora, + s. Matde. + + To reef a sail, Epo'uie te rya. + A Refusal, Ehoo'nooa. + The Remainder of any thing, T,'Ewahei. + To rend, burst, or split, Moo'moomoo. + Rent, cracked, or torn, E'wha. + To reside, live or dwell, E'noho. + Respiration, breathing, Tooe,tooe. + A Rib, Awäo. + + Rich, not poor, having plenty of Epo'too. + goods, etc. + + A Ring, 'Maino. + + The Ringworm, a disease so called, E'nooa. + Ripe, as ripe fruit, etc. Para, s. Pai, s. Ooo + pai. + + Rise, to rise up, A'too. + To rive, or split, Ewhaoo' whaoo. + A Road, or path, Eä'ra. + Roasted, or broiled, Ooa'waira. + A Robber, or thief, Eee'a (taata.) + A Rock, Paoo. + A reef of Rocks, E'aou. + Rolling, the rolling of a ship, Too'roore. + A Root, Apoo, s. Ea. + A Rope of any kind, Taura. + Rotten, as rotten fruit, etc. Roope. + Rough, not smooth, Ta'rra, tarra. + To row with oars, E'oome, s, E'höe. + + To rub a thing, as in washing the hands Ho'roee. + and face, + + The Rudder of a boat, or steering Höe,fa'herre. + paddle of a canoe, + + Running backwards and forwards, Oo'atapone. + endeavouring to escape, + + S. + + The Sail of a ship or boat, Eee'ai. + To sail, or to be under sail, E'whano. + Salt, or salt water, Ty'ty, s. Meede. + Sand, dust, E'one. + Saturn, Whati'hëa. + Saunders's island, Tabooa, Manoo. + A Saw, Eee'oo. + A Scab, E'tona. + A fish's Scale or scales, Pöa. + + A pair of Scissars, O'toobo, + s. O'toboo. + + A Scoop, to empty water from a canoe, E'tata. + To scrape a thing, Oo'aoo. + To scratch with the fingers, Era'raoo. + Scratched, a scratched metal, etc. Pahoore'hoore. + The Sea-cat, a fish so called, Poohe. + The Sea, Taee, s. Meede. + A Sea-egg, He'awy. + A Seam between two planks, Fatoo'whaira. + To search for a thing that is lost, Oö,s.Pae'mee. + A Seat, Papa. + + Secret, a secret whispering, or slandering + another, Ohe'moo. + + The Seed of a plant, Hooa'tootoo, + s. Ehooero + + The sense of seeing, E'hee'o. + To send, Eho'pöe. + A Sepulchre, or burying-place, Ma'ray. + A Servant, Towtow. + Seven, A'Heetoo. + To sew, or string, E'tooe. + Seyne, to haul a seyne, Etoroo te paia. + Shady, Maroo,maroo. + To shake, or agitate a thing, Eooa'wai. + A Shark, Mäo. + Sharp, not blunt, Oö'ëe. + + To shave, or take off the beard, Eva'roo, + s.Whanne, whanne. + + A small Shell, Ot'eo. + A tyger Shell, Pore'hoo. + Shew it me, Enara. + A Ship, Pahee. + Shipwreck, Ara'wha. + A white Shirt, Paroo'y. + To shiver with cold, A'tete. + Mud Shoes, or fishing shoes, Tama. + The Shore, Euta. + Short, Po'potoo. + + Shut, not open, Opa'nee, + s. Poo'peepe. + + Sickness, Matte my Mamy. + The left Side, A'roode. + The Side, E'reea'wo. + The right Side, Atou,a'taou. + Sighing, Fa'ëa. + Silence, Fatte'booa. + Similar, or alike, Oowhyä'da. + To sink, A'tomo. + A Sister, Too'heine. + To sit down, A'noho. + To sit cross-legged, Tee'py. + Six, A'Honoo. + A Skate-fish, E'whaee. + The Skin, Ee'ree. + The Sky, E'raee. + To sleep, Möe. + The long Sleep, or death, Möe röa. + To sleep, when sitting, Too'roore,möe. + A Sling, E'ma. + Slow, Marra,marröa,s.Fate. + Small, little, Eete. + + The sense of smelling, Fata'too, + s.Ootoo,too,too. + + Smell it, Hoina. + To smell, Ahe'oi. + Smoke, E'oora. + Smooth, Pa'ya. + + Smutting the face with charcoal for + funeral ceremonies, Bap'para. + + A sea Snake, that has alternate + rings of a white and black colour, Poohee'aroo. + + To snatch a thing hastily, E'hairoo. + Sneezing, Machee'ai. + + Snipe, a bird resembling a snipe, of + a black and brown colour, Tee'tee. + + Snot 'Hoope. + Soberness, sobriety, sober, not given Teireida. + to drunkenness, + + To soften, Eparoo'paroo. + Softness, that is, not hard, Maroo. + The Sole of the foot, Tapoo'y. + A Son My'de. + A Son-in-law, Hoo'nöa. + A Song, Heeva. + A Sore, or ulcer, O'pai. + Soreness, or pain, Ma'may. + Sound, any sound that strikes the ear, Pa'eena. + A Span, Ewhäe ono. + To speak, Paraou. + + Speak; he speaks not from the heart, Neeate ootoo te parou + his words are only on his lips, no nona. + + A Spear, or lance, Täo. + To spill, Emare. + To spit, Too'tooa. + + To spread, or to expand a thing, as Ho'hora. + cloth, etc. + + To squeeze, or press hard, Ne,'neee. + To squeeze, or press gently with the hand, Roro'mee. + Squint-eyed, Matta'areva. + A fighting Stage in a boat, E'tootee. + + To stamp with the feet, to trample on Tata'hy. + a thing, + + Stand up, Atëarenona. + A Star, E'faitoo, s. Hwettoo. + A Star-fish, Eve'ree. + To startle, as when one dreams Wa'hee, te'dirre. + Stay, or wait a little, A'reea, s. Aree'ana. + To steal, 'Woreedo. + Steep, as steep rocks, or cliffs, Mato. + A walking Stick, 'Tame. + + Stinking, ill-smelled, as stinking water,etc. Na'mooa, + s. Nee'neeo. + + Stink, to stink or smell ill, Fou, fou. + To stink, as excrement, Peero,peero. + The Stomach, 'Paraee'a. + A Stone, Owhay. + A polished Stone, used to beat victuals Pai'noo. + into a paste, + + Stones, upright stones which stand on + the paved area before huts, Too'toore. + + A small Stool, to lay the head + on when asleep, Papa, s. Papa, rooä. + + Stool, to go to stool, Teetee'o. + To stop, A'too. + The Stopper of a quiver, Ponau. + A Storm of wind, rain, thunder, etc. Tarooa. + Strait, narrow, not wide, Peere,peere. + Striking, hollow striking in dancing, Apee. + The String of a quiver, E'aha. + Strong, as a strong man, O'omara. + Struck, A'boola. + Stupidity, ignorance, Weea'la. + To suck as a child, Ote,ote. + Sugar cane, E'To, s. Töo. + Suicide, Euha'aou. + Sultry, or hot air, Poheea. + The Sun, Mahanna, s. Era. + The meridian Sun, Tei'neea te Mahanna. + Supine, lying, Fateeraha. + Surf of the sea, Horo'wai. + + An interjection of Surprise, + or admiration, Allaheuee'ai. + + To surround, A'boone. + To swallow, Horo'mee. + The Sweat of the body, or to sweat E'hou, s. Ehou hou. + A sweet taste, Mona. + Swell of the sea, E'roo. + + T. + + A Tail, Ero. + A Tail of a bird, E'hoppe. + To take a friend by the hand, Etoo'yaoo. + To take off, or unloose, Eve'vette. + To take care of the victuals, Ewhaapoo te maa. + To talk, or converse, Paraou. + The sense of tasting, Tama'ta. + A Tetotum, or whirligig, E'piröa. + To tear a thing, Ha'hy, s. Whatte. + A Teat, or dug, E'oo. + The Teeth, E'neeheeo. + Ten A'hooroo. + To tend, or feed hogs, Ewhaee te Böa. + Tenants, Afeu'hau. + A black Tern, with a whitish head, Oee'o. + There, Te'raee. + They, them, or theirs, To'taooa. + Thickness, applied to solid bodies, Meoo'meoo. + Thick, as thick cloth, etc. Tooe'too'e. + Thick, muddy, Ewore'roo,s.Eworepe. + Thine, it is yours, or belongs to you, No öe. + Thirst, W'ahee'y. + Thoughts, Paraou, no te o'poo. + An appearance of thoughtfulness, Fate'booa. + Three, Toroo. + The Throat, Ara'poa. + To throw, or heave a thing, Taora. + To throw a thing away, Harre'wai. + To throw a ball, Ama'hooa. + To throw a lance, Evara'towha. + Throw, shall I throw it, Taure'a'a. + Throwing in dancing, Hoe'aire. + The Thumb, E'reema,erahai. + Thunder, Pa'teere. + Tickle, to tickle a person, My'neena. + A Tide, or current, A'ow. + To tie a knot, Ty. + + Time, a space of time, from 6 to 10 + at night, O'tooe, teepo. + + Time, a little time, a small space, Popo'eunoo. + Time, a long time, a great while, Ta'moo. + A Title belonging to a woman of rank, E'tapay'roo. + A Toe of the foot, Maneeo. + A Tomb, Too,pap'pou. + The Tongue, E'rero. + A Tortoise, E'honoo. + Touching, Fa'fa. + Tough, as tough meat, etc. Ahoo'oue. + A Town, E'farre pooto pootoo. + To trample with the foot, Tata'he, s. Ta'ta'hy. + A Tree, E'räo. + + A Tree, from which they make clubs, Töa (Eräo.) + spears, etc. + + To tremble, or shudder with cold, Ooa'titte, s. Eta. + Trembling, shaking, Aou'dou. + To trip one up in wrestling, Me'häe. + A Tropic-bird, Manoo'roa. + Truth, Evaee'röa,s.Paraou,mou. + To tumble, Pouta'heite. + A Turban, E'täe. + To turn, or turned, Oo'ahöe. + + To turn, as in walking backwards and + forwards, Hoodeepeepe. + + Twins, twin children, Ma'hëa. + To twist a rope, Tawee'ree. + Two, E'Rooä. + + U. + + An Ulcer, or sore, O'pai. + Under, below, low down, Oraro. + Under sail, Pou'pouee. + To understand, Ee'te. + To undress, or take off the clothes, Ta'turra. + An unmarried person, Aree'oi. + Unripe, as unripe fruit,etc. Poo. + + V. + + Luminous Vapour, Epao. + Vassal, or subject, Manna'houna. + Vast, Ara,hai,s.Mai,ara'hai. + The Veins that run under the skin, E'woua. + Venus, Tou'rooa. + + Vessel, any hollow vessel, as cups of + nuts,etc. Ai'boo. + + Vessel, a hollow vessel in which they + prepare an inebriating liquor, Oo'mutte. + + To vomit, Eroo'y. + + W. + + Wad, tow, fibres like hemp, Ta'mou. + Wait, stay a little, Areeana. + Wake, awake, Arra arra, s. Era. + To walk out, Avou'oia. + To walk backwards and forwards, Hooa peepe. + A Warrior, soldier, or rather a man-killer, Taatatöa. + Warmth, heat, Mahanna,hanna. + A Wart, Toria. + To wash, as to wash cloth in water, Mare. + To watch, Eteäe. + Water, A'vy. + Water-cresses, Pa'töa. + We, both of us, Taooa, s. Aroo'rooa. + A wedge, Era'hei. + To weep, or cry, Hanö a,a,taee. + Well recovered, or well escaped, Woura, s. woo,ara. + Well, it is well, charming, fine, Pooro'too. + + What, whats that, E'hara, E'ha'rya,s. + Ye'haeea, expressed + inquisitively. + + What do you call that, what is the + name of it, Owy te aee'oa. + + When, at what time, W'hëëa. + Where is it, Te'hëa. + + Whet, to whet or sharp a thing, Evoee. + To whistle, Ma'poo. + + Whistling, a method of whistling to + call the people to meals, Epou,maa. + + To whisper secretly, as in backbiting, etc. Ohe'moo. + + Who is that, what is he called, Owy,tanna, s. + Owy,nana. + + Whole, the whole not a part of a thing, E'ta,e'tea, s. A'maoo. + Wide, not strait or narrow, Whatta,whatta. + A Widow, Wa'tooneea. + Wife, my wife, Ma'heine. + The Wind, Mattay. + The south-east Wind, Mattaee. + A Window, Ma'laee ou'panee. + The Wing of a bird, Ere'ou. + To wink, E'amou,amoo. + To wipe a thing clean, Ho'roee. + Wish, a wish to one who sneezes, Eva'roua t Eätooa. + Within side, Tee'ro to. + A Woman, Wa'heine. + A married Woman, Wa'heine mou. + + Woman, she is a married woman, she + has got another husband, Terra,tanne. + + Won't I won't do it, 'Aeeoo, expressed + angrily. + + Wood of any kind, E'raö. + A Wound, Oo'tee. + A Wrestler, Mouna. + Wrinkled in the face, Meeo, meeo. + The Wrist, Mo'möa. + A Wry-neck, Na'na. + + Y. + + To yawn, Ha'mamma. + Yellow colour, He'appa. + Yes, Ay, s. ai. + Yesterday, Ninna'hay. + Yesternight, Ere'po. + York island, Ei'mëo. + Yon Oë. + young,as a young animal of any kind, Pee'naia. + + [21] A Table exhibiting at one View, Specimens of different + languages spoken in the South-Sea, from Easter Island, + Westward to New Caledonia, as observed in the Voyage. + + English. Otaheite. Easter Island. + The Marquesas Isles. The Island of Amsterdam. New Zealand. + Malicolo. Tanna. New Caledonia + + A Bird, 'Manoo,[22] 'Manoo, + 'Manuoo, + Manoo, Manee, s. Maneek. + + A Bow E'fanna, + 'Fanna, + Nabrroos, Na'fanga. + + Bread-fruit Ooroo, + Maiee, + Ba'rabe, Tag'ooroo. + + A canoe E'väa 'Wagga, + Ev'äa, Ta'wagga, + Wang. + + Cloth Ahoo, 'Ahoo, + 'Ahoo, s. A'hooeea, Babba'langa,Kak'ahoo, + Ta'naree, Hamban. + + A Cocoa-nut 'Aree, + 'Eeoo, + Naroo, Naboo'y, 'Neeoo. + + To drink Aynoo' Aeenoo, + 'Aeenoo, + No'aee, Nooee, 'Oodoo, s. Oondoo. + + The Eye Matta, Matta, + 'Matta, s. Mattaeea, 'Matta, 'Matta, + Maitang, Nanee'maiuk, Tee'vein. + + The Ear Ta'reea, Ta'reean, + Boo'eena, Ta'reeka, + Talingan, Feenee'enguk, Gain'eeng. + + Fish 'Eya, Eeka, + 'Eeka, 'Eeka, + 'Namoo. + + A Fowl, Möa, Möa, + Möa, + Moe'roo. + + The Hand, E'reema, 'Reema, + Eoo'my, E'reema, 'Reenga, + Badon'heen. + + The Head, Oo'po, Aö'po, + Tak'oopo, + Ba'saine, Noogwa'naium, Gar'moing. + + A Hog, 'Böa, + 'Booa, Boo'acka, + 'Brrooas, 'Booga, s. 'Boogas. + + I,myself, Wou, s. ou, + 'Wou, Ou. + + To laugh, 'Atta, + Katta, + 'Häarish, Ap, s.Gye'ap. + + A Man, 'Täata, Papa? + Teeto, + Ba'rang, Naroo'mäan. + + The Navel, 'Peeto, + Peeto, s. Peeto'ai, Peeto, + Nomprtong, Napee rainguk, Whanboo een. + + No, (1)'Ayma,(2)Yaiha,(3)A'oure,'Eisa, + 'Eesha, Ka'oure, + Ta'ep, E'sa, 'Eeva, Eeba. + + Plantains, 'Maiya, (1)Maya, (2)Footse, + Maieea, 'Foodje, + Nabrruts. + + Puncturation, Ta'tou, + E'patoo, Ta'tou, Moko, + 'Gan, s. Gan,galang. + + Rain, E'ooa, 'Ooa, + + Na'mawar, Ooe. + + Sugar cane, E'To, To, + + Na'rook. + + The Teeth, E'neeheeo, 'Neeho, + E'neeho, 'Neefo, Neeho, + Ree'bohn, 'Warrewuk, s. 'Raibuk, Penna'wein. + + Water, A'vay, E'vy, + + Er'gour, Ooe. + + To Whistle, 'Mapoo, + Feeo,feeo, + Papang, Awe'bern, 'Wyoo. + + A Woman, Wa'heine, + Ve'heene, + Ra'bin, Nai'bräan, Tama. + + Yams, E'oohe, Oohe, + Oofe, + Nan-'ram, Oofe, Oobe. + + Yes, Ai, + 'Eeo, + Ai, 'Eeo, 'Elo, s. Eeo, + s. öe. + + You, Oë, + Oë. + + + + One, A'Tahay, Katta'haee, + Atta'haee, Ta'haee, + + Tsee'kaee, Reedee, Wagee'aing. + + Two, E'Rooa, 'Rooa, + A'ooa, E'ooa, + E'ry, 'Karoo, 'Waroo. + + Three, 'Teroo, 'Toroo, + A'toroo, 'Toroo, + E'rei, 'Kahar, Watee en. + + Four, A'Haa, 'Häa, s. Fäa, + A'faa, A'fäa, + E'bats, 'Kaiphar, Wam'baeek. + + Five, E'Reema, 'Reema, + A'eema, 'Neema, + E'reem, 'Kreerum, Wannim. + + Six, A'ono, 'Honoo, + A'ono, + Tsoo'kaee, Ma'reedee, Wannim-geeek. + + Seven, A'Heitoo, 'Heedoo, + A'wheetoo, + Gooy, Ma'karoo, Wannim'noo. + + Eight, A'waroo, 'Varoo, + A'waoo, + Hoorey, Ma'kahar, Wannim'gain. + + Nine, A'eeva, Heeva, + A'eeva, + Goodbats, Ma'kaiphar, Wannim'baeek. + + Ten, A'hooroo, Atta'hooroo, + s. Anna'hooroo, + Wannahoo, s. Wanna'hooe, + Senearr, Ma'kreerum, Wannoo'naiuk. +</pre> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 21: It may be easily perceived, that +notwithstanding some words are entirely different, the first five +Indian languages are radically the same; though the distance from +Easter Island to New Zealand is upwards of fifteen hundred leagues. +The principal difference consists in the mode of pronunciation, which +in Easter Island, Amsterdam, and New Zealand, is more harsh, or +guttural, than at the Marquesas Isles, or Otaheite. The other three +differ totally, not only from the preceding, but from each other; +which is more extraordinary than the agreement of the others, as from +Malicolo to Tanna you never lose sight of land; nor is New Caledonia +at a great distance from the last place. In the language of Malicolo +a great number of harsh labial sounds prevail, very difficult to be +represented in writing. At Tanna the pronunciation is likewise harsh, +but rather guttural, and the inhabitants of New Caledonia have many +nasal sounds, or snivel much in speaking. It may however be observed, +that in the three last languages, some words are found which seem to +have a distant resemblance to those that go before; as Brr'ooas, in +Malicolo, and 'Booga, or 'Boogas, in Tanna, both signifying a hog, +which at Otaheite and the Marquesas, is expressed by the word +'Böa, and at Amsterdam Boo'acka. Yet, whether these may not have +been accidentally introduced, is hard to determine; because they +frequently use two words to express the same thing; as for instance, +in New Caledonia, they call a star both Peejoo and Fya'too; the first +seems most consonant to the general composition of their language, +whereas the second differs very little from E'faitoo, or Whetoo, the +name of a star at Otaheite. When they mention puncturation, it is +commonly called a Gan, or Gan,galan; but sometimes they say Tata'tou, +which is almost the same as Ta'tou, used to express the same thing at +Otaheite and Amsterdam.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 22: The letters in Italic, as oo, ee, etc. are +to be sounded as one. Those with this ¨, as öe, etc. are +separately. The accent at the beginning of a word, signifies the +chief stress in pronunciation is to be laid there; if over it at any +other part, the stress is laid on that part immediately following. A +comma in the middle of a word, either signifies, that it is +compounded of two, or, that the same syllables repeated, make the +word; in both which cases, a small stop, or pause, must be made in +pronouncing it.]</blockquote> + +<h2><a name="book3-3" id="book3-3">BOOK III.</a></h2> + +<p>A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN, UNDERTAKEN BY THE COMMAND OF HIS +MAJESTY, FOR MAKING DISCOVERIES IN THE NORTHERN HEMISPHERE; TO +DETERMINE THE POSITION AND EXTENT OF THE WEST SIDE OF NORTH AMERICA, +ITS DISTANCE FROM ASIA, AND THE PRACTICABILITY OF A NORTHERN PASSAGE +TO EUROPE. PERFORMED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF CAPTAINS COOK, CLERKE, +AND GORE, IN HIS MAJESTY'S SHIPS THE RESOLUTION AND DISCOVERY, IN THE +YEARS 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, & 1780.[23]</p> + +<h2><a name="chapter3-intro" id= +"chapter3-intro">INTRODUCTION.</a></h2> + +<p>The spirit of discovery, which had long animated the European +nations, having, after its arduous and successful exertions, during +the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, gradually subsided, and for a +considerable time lain dormant, began to revive in Great Britain in +the late reign;[24] and recovered all its former activity, under the +cherishing influence, and munificent encouragement, of his present +majesty.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 23: The account of this voyage was originally +published in three volumes the first and second of which were written +by Captain Cook himself, and the third by Captain King, one of his +officers. The work, however, as the reader will soon find, is +materially enriched by the communications of Mr Anderson, surgeon of +the Resolution. The valuable introduction, and the notes interspersed +throughout the volumes contributed by Cook, were the production of Dr +Douglas, Bishop of Salisbury, who, at the request of Lord Sandwich, +undertook also the office of editor. Of the amount of his services in +this character, we have his own statement, towards the end of the +introduction. From this, it appears, that Cook, when he set out, knew +he was expected to relate, as well as to execute, the operations +committed to him; and that his journal, in consequence, was +faithfully adhered to. This seems to imply the non-interference of +the editor, at least in any important sense. The same thing may be +inferred from what he says respecting Mr Anderson's journal. And as +to the third volume, we are expressly told, that it was completely +prepared for the press by Captain King himself. There is surely, +then, very little foundation for an assertion made in the memoir of +Captain Cook, inserted in the new edition of the General Biographical +Dictionary, vol. 10. viz. that Dr Douglas "has levelled down the more +striking peculiarities of the different writers, into some appearance +of equality." Certainly, we are bound either to refuse such an +insinuation, or to charge falsehood on Dr Douglas, who expressly +states, that all he has to answer for, are the notes in Captain +Cook's two volumes and the introduction. But the alternative will +give no trouble to any reader acquainted with the worthy character of +the bishop, or who can comprehend, how very readily a probable +conjecture may became the basis of an erroneous opinion. + +<p>It is necessary to apprise the reader, that the letter D is placed +at such of Dr Douglas's notes as it is thought advisable to retain in +this work, and that for the rest marked E., the editor, as formerly, +is responsible.--E.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 24: Two voyages for discovering a north-west +passage, through Hudson's Bay, were then performed; one under the +command of Captain Middleton, in his majesty's ships the Furnace, and +the Discovery pink, in 1741 and 1743. The other under the direction +of Captains Smith and Moore, in the ships Dobbs and California, +fitted out by subscription, in 1746 and 1747.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>Soon after his accession to the throne, having happily closed the +destructive operations of war, he turned his thoughts to enterprises +more humane, but not less brilliant, adapted to the season of +returning peace. While every liberal art, and useful study, +flourished under his patronage at home, his superintending care was +extended to such branches of knowledge, as required distant +examination and enquiry; and his ships, after bringing back victory +and conquest from every quarter of the known world, were now employed +in opening friendly communications with its hitherto unexplored +recesses.</p> + +<p>In the prosecution of an object so worthy of the monarch of a +great commercial people, one voyage followed another in close +succession; and, we may add, in regular gradation. What Byron had +begun, Wallis and Carteret soon improved. Their success gave birth to +a far more extensive plan of discovery, carried into execution in two +subsequent voyages, conducted by Cook. And that nothing might be left +unattempted, though much had been already done, the same commander, +whose professional skill could only be equalled by the persevering +diligence with which he had exerted it, in the course of his former +researches, was called upon, once more, to resume, or rather to +complete, the survey of the globe. Accordingly, another voyage was +undertaken, in 1776; which, though last in the order of time, was far +from being the least considerable, with respect to the extent and +importance of its objects; yet, still, far less fortunate than any of +the former, as those objects were not accomplished, but at the +expence of the valuable life of its conductor.</p> + +<p>When plans, calculated to be of general utility, are carried into +execution with partial views, and upon interested motives, it is +natural to attempt to confine, within some narrow circle, the +advantages which might have been derived to the world at large, by an +unreserved disclosure of all that had been effected. And, upon this +principle, it has too frequently been considered as sound policy, +perhaps, in this country, as well as amongst some of our neighbours, +to affect to draw a veil of secrecy over the result of enterprises to +discover and explore unknown quarters of the globe. It is to the +honour of the present reign, that more liberal views have been now +adopted. Our late voyages, from the very extensive objects proposed +by them, could not but convey useful information to every European +nation; and, indeed, to every nation, however remote, which +cultivates commerce, and is acquainted with navigation: And that +information has most laudably been afforded. The same enlarged and +benevolent spirit, which ordered these several expeditions to be +undertaken, has also taken care that the result of their various +discoveries should be authentically recorded. And the transactions of +these voyages round the world, having, in due time, been +communicated, under the authority of his majesty's naval minister; +those of the present, which, besides revisiting many of the former +discoveries in the southern, carried its operations into untrodden +paths in the northern hemisphere, are, under the same sanction, now +submitted to the public in these volumes.</p> + +<p>One great plan of nautical investigation having been pursued +throughout, it is obvious, that the several voyages have a close +connection, and that an exact recollection of what had been aimed at, +and effected, in those that preceded, will throw considerable light +on our period. With a view, therefore, to assist the reader in +forming a just estimate of the additional information conveyed by +this publication, it may not be improper to lay before him a short, +though comprehensive, abstract of the principal objects that had been +previously accomplished, arranged in such a manner, as may serve to +unite into one point of view, the various articles which lie +scattered through the voluminous journals already in the hands of the +public; those compiled by Dr Hawkesworth; and that which was written +by Captain Cook himself. By thus shewing what had been formerly done, +how much still remained for subsequent examination will be more +apparent; and it will be better understood on what grounds, though +the ships of his majesty had already circumnavigated the world five +different times, in the course of about ten years, another voyage +should still be thought expedient.</p> + +<p>There will be a farther use in giving such an abstract a place in +this introduction. The plan of discovery, carried on in so many +successive expeditions, being now, we may take upon us to say, in a +great measure completed, by summing up the final result, we shall be +better able to do justice to the benevolent purposes it was designed +to answer; and a solid foundation will be laid, on which we may build +a satisfactory answer to a question, sometimes asked by peevish +refinement, and ignorant malevolence, What beneficial consequences, +if any, have followed, or are likely to follow, to the discoverers, +or to the discovered, to the common interests of humanity, or to the +increase of useful knowledge, from all our boasted attempts to +explore the distant recesses of the globe?</p> + +<p>The general object of the several voyages round the world, +undertaken by the command of his majesty, prior to that related in +this work, was to search for unknown tracts of land that might exist +within the bosom of the immense expanse of ocean that occupies the +whole southern hemisphere.</p> + +<p>Within that space, so few researches had been made, before our +time, and those few researches had been made so imperfectly, that the +result of them, as communicated to the world in any narration, had +rather served to create uncertainty, than to convey information; to +deceive the credulous, rather than to satisfy the judicious enquirer; +by blending the true geography of above half the superficies of the +earth with an endless variety of plausible conjectures, suggested by +ingenious speculation; of idle tales, handed down by obscure +tradition; or of bold fictions, invented by deliberate falsehood.</p> + +<p>It would have been very unfortunate, indeed, if five different +circumnavigations of the globe, some of them, at least, if not all, +in tracks little known, and less frequented, had produced no +discoveries, to reward the difficulties and perils unavoidably +encountered. But the following review will furnish the most +satisfactory proofs, that his majesty's instructions have been +executed with ability; and that the repeated visits of his ships to +the southern hemisphere, have very considerably added to our stock of +geographical knowledge.</p> + +<p>1. The south Atlantic ocean was the first scene of our operations. +Falkland's Islands had been hitherto barely known to exist; but their +true position and extent, and every circumstance which could render +their existence of any consequence, remained absolutely undecided, +till Byron visited them in 1764. And Captain Macbride, who followed +him thither two years after, having circumnavigated their coasts, and +taken a complete survey, a chart of Falkland's Islands has been +constructed, with so much accuracy, that the coasts of Great Britain +itself, are not more authentically laid down upon our maps.</p> + +<p>How little was really known of the islands in the south Atlantic, +even so late as the time of Lord Anson, we have the most remarkable +proofs, in the history of his voyage. Unavoidably led into mistake, +by the imperfect materials then in the possession of the world, he +had considered Pepys's Island, and Falkland Isles, as distinct +places; distant from each other about five degrees of latitude. +Byron's researches have rectified this capital error; and it is now +decided, beyond all contradiction, that, as Captain Cook says, +"Future navigators will mispend their time, if they look for Pepys's +Island in latitude 47°; it being now certain, that Pepys's Island +is no other than these islands of Falkland."</p> + +<p>Besides the determination of this considerable point, other lands, +situated in the South Atlantic, have been brought forward into view. +If the isle of Georgia had been formerly seen by La Roche in 1675, +and by Mr Guyot, in the ship Lion, in 1756, which seems to be +probable, Captain Cook, in 1775, has made us fully acquainted with +its extent and true position; and, in the same year, he added to the +map of the world Sandwich Land, hitherto not known to exist, and the +most southern discovery that has been ever accomplished.</p> + +<p>II. Though the Strait of Magalhaens had been formerly visited, and +sailed through by ships of different nations, before our time, a +careful examination of its bays, and harbours, and head-lands; of the +numerous islands it contains, and of the coasts, on both sides, that +inclose it; and an exact account of the tides, and currents, and +soundings, throughout its whole extent, was a task, which, if Sir +John Narborough, and others, had not totally omitted, they cannot be +said to have recorded so fully, as to preclude the utility of future +investigation. This task has been ably and effectually performed by +Byron, Wallis, and Carteret; whose transactions in this strait, and +the chart of it, founded on their observations and discoveries, are a +most valuable accession to geography.</p> + +<p>III. If the correct information, thus obtained, about every part +of this celebrated strait, should deter future adventurers from +involving themselves in the difficulties and embarrassments of a +labyrinth, now known to be so intricate, and the unavoidable source +of danger and delay, we have the satisfaction to have discovered, +that a safer and more expeditious entrance into the Pacific Ocean, +may be reasonably depended upon. The passage round Cape Horn has been +repeatedly tried, both from the east and from the west, and stript of +its terrors. We shall, for the future, be less discouraged by the +labours and distresses experienced by the squadrons of Lord Anson and +Pizarro, when we recollect that they were obliged to attempt the +navigation of those seas at an unfavourable season of the year; and +that there was nothing very formidable met with there when they were +traversed by Captain Cook.</p> + +<p>To this distinguished navigator was reserved the honour of being +the first, who, from a series of the most satisfactory observations, +beginning at the west entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens, and +carried on with unwearied diligence, round Tierra del Fuego, through +the Strait of Le Maire, has constructed a chart of the southern +extremity of America, from which it will appear, how much former +navigators must have been at a loss to guide themselves; and what +advantages will be now enjoyed by those who shall hereafter sail +round Cape Horn.</p> + +<p>IV. As the voyages of discovery, undertaken by his majesty's +command, have facilitated the access of ships into the Pacific Ocean, +they have also greatly enlarged our knowledge of its contents.</p> + +<p>Though the immense expanse usually distinguished by this +appellation, had been navigated by Europeans for near two centuries +and a half, by far the greater part of it, particularly to the south +of the equator, had remained, during all this time, unexplored.</p> + +<p>The great aim of Magalhaens, and of the Spaniards in general, its +first navigators, being merely to arrive, by this passage, at the +Moluccas, and the other Asiatic spice islands, every intermediate +part of the ocean that did not lie contiguous to their western track, +which was on the north side of the equator, of course escaped due +examination. And if Mendana and Quiros, and some nameless conductors +of voyages before them, by deviating from this track, and steering +westward from Callao, within the southern tropic, were so fortunate +as to meet with various islands there, and so sanguine as to consider +those islands as marks of the existence of a neighbouring southern +continent, in the exploring of which they flattered themselves they +should rival the fame of De Gama and Columbus, these feeble efforts +never led to any effectual disclosure of the supposed hidden mine of +a New World. On the contrary, their voyages being conducted without a +judicious plan, and their discoveries being left imperfect without +immediate settlement, or subsequent examination, and scarcely +recorded in any well-authenticated or accurate narrations, had been +almost forgot; or were so obscurely remembered, as only to serve the +purpose of producing perplexing debates about their situation and +extent, if not to suggest doubts about their very existence.</p> + +<p>It seems, indeed, to have become a very early object of policy in +the Spanish councils, to discontinue and to discourage any farther +researches in that quarter. Already masters of a larger empire on the +continent of America than they could conveniently govern, and of +richer mines of the precious metals on that continent than they could +convert into use, neither avarice nor ambition furnished reasons for +aiming at a fresh accession of dominions. And thus, though settled +all along the shores of this ocean, in a situation so commodious for +prosecuting discoveries throughout its wide extent, the Spaniards +remained satisfied with a coasting intercourse between their own +ports; never stretching across the vast gulph that separates that +part of America from Asia, but in an unvarying line of navigation, +perhaps in a single annual ship, between Acapulco and Manilla.</p> + +<p>The tracks of other European navigators of the South Pacific +Ocean, were, in a great measure, regulated by those of the Spaniards, +and consequently limited within the same narrow bounds. With the +exception, perhaps, of two instances only, those of Le Maire and +Roggewein, no ships of another nation had entered this sea, through +the Strait of Magalhaens, or found Cape Horn, but for the purposes of +trade with the Spaniards, or of hostility against them, purposes +which could not be answered, without precluding any probable chance +of adding much to our stock of discovery. For it was obviously +incumbent on all such adventurers, to confine their cruises within a +moderate distance of the Spanish settlements, in the vicinity of +which alone they could hope to exercise their commerce, or to execute +their predatory and military operations. Accordingly, soon after +emerging from the strait, or completing the circuit of Tierra del +Fuego, they began to hold a northerly course, to the uninhabited +island of Juan Fernandez, their usual spot of rendezvous and +refreshment. And after ranging along the continent of America, from +Chili to California, they either reversed their course back to the +Atlantic, or, if they ventured to extend their voyage by stretching +over to Asia, they never thought of trying experiments in the +unfrequented and unexplored parts of the ocean, but chose the beaten +path (if the expression may be used,) within the limits of which it +was likely that they might meet with a Philippine galleon, to make +their voyage profitable to themselves; but could have little +prospect, if they had been desirous, of making it useful to the +public, by gaining any accession of new land to the map of the +world.</p> + +<p>By the natural operation of these causes, it could not but happen, +that little progress should be made toward obtaining a full and +accurate knowledge of the South Pacific Ocean. Something, however, +had been attempted by the industrious, and once enterprising, Dutch, +to whom we are indebted for three voyages, undertaken for the +purposes of discovery; and whose researches, in the southern +latitudes of this ocean, are much better ascertained than are those +of the earlier Spanish navigators above mentioned.</p> + +<p>Le Maire and Schouten, in 1616, and Roggewein, in 1722, wisely +judging that nothing new could be gained by adhering to the usual +passage on the north side of the Line, traversed this ocean from Cape +Horn to the East Indies, crossing the south tropic, a space which had +been so seldom, and so ineffectually, visited; though popular belief, +fortified by philosophical speculation, expected there to reap the +richest harvest of discovery.</p> + +<p>Tasman, in 1642, in his extensive circuit from Batavia, through +the South Indian Ocean, entered the South Pacific, at its greatest +distance from the American side, where it never had been examined +before. And his range, continued from a high southern latitude, +northward to New Guinea, and the islands to the east of it near the +equator, produced intermediate discoveries, that have rendered his +voyage memorable in the annals of navigation.</p> + +<p>But still, upon the whole, what was effected in these three +expeditions, served only to shew how large a field was reserved for +future and more persevering examination. Their results had, indeed, +enabled geographers to diversify the vacant uniformity of former +charts of this ocean by the insertion of some new islands. But the +number, and the extent of these insertions, were so inconsiderable, +that they may be said to appear</p> + +<pre> +Rari, nantes in gurgite vasto. +</pre> + +<p>And, if the discoveries were few, those few were made very +imperfectly. Some coasts were approached, but not landed upon; and +passed without waiting to examine their extent and connection with +those that might exist at no great distance. If others were landed +upon, the visits were, in general, so transient, that it was scarcely +possible to build upon a foundation so weakly laid, any information +that could even gratify idle curiosity, much less satisfy +philosophical enquiry, or contribute greatly to the safety, or to the +success, of future navigation.</p> + +<p>Let us, however, do justice to these beginnings of discovery. To +the Dutch, we must, at least, ascribe the merit of being our +harbingers, though we afterward went beyond them in the road they had +first ventured to tread. And with what success his majesty's ships +have, in their repeated voyages, penetrated into the obscurest +recesses of the South Pacific Ocean, will appear from the following +enumeration of their various and very extensive operations, which +have drawn up the veil that had hitherto been thrown over the +geography of so great a proportion of the globe.</p> + +<p>1. The several lands, of which any account had been given, as seen +by any of the preceding navigators, Spanish or Dutch, have been +carefully looked for, and most of them (at least such of them as +seemed of any consequence) found out and visited; and not visited in +a cursory manner, but every means used to correct former mistakes, +and to supply former deficiencies, by making accurate enquiries +ashore, and taking skilful surveys of their coasts, by sailing round +them, who has not heard, or read, of the boasted <i>Tierra Australia +del Espiritu Santo</i> of Quiros? But its bold pretensions to be a +part of a southern continent, could not stand Captain Cook's +examination, who sailed round it, and assigned it its true position +and moderate bounds, in the Archipelago of the New Hebrides.[25]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 25: Bougainville, in 1768, did no more than +discover that the land here was not connected, but composed of +islands. Captain Cook, in 1774, explored the whole +group.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>2. Besides perfecting many of the discoveries of their +predecessors, our late navigators have enriched geographical +knowledge with a long catalogue of their own. The Pacific Ocean, +within the south tropic, repeatedly traversed, in every direction, +was found to swarm with a seemingly endless profusion of habitable +spots of land. Islands scattered through the amazing space of near +fourscore degrees of longitude, separated at various distances, or +grouped in numerous clusters, have, at their approach, as it were, +started into existence; and such ample accounts have been brought +home concerning them and their inhabitants, as may serve every useful +purpose of enquiry; and, to use Captain Cook's words, who bore so +considerable a share in those discoveries, <i>have left little more +to be done in that part</i>.</p> + +<p>3. Byron, Wallis, and Carteret had each of them contributed toward +increasing our knowledge of the islands that exist in the Pacific +Ocean, within the limits of the southern tropic; but how far that +ocean reached to the west, what lands bounded it on that side, and +the connection of those lands with the discoveries of former +navigators, was still the reproach of geographers, and remained +absolutely unknown, till Captain Cook, during his first voyage in +1770, brought back the most satisfactory decision of this important +question. With a wonderful perseverance, and consummate skill, amidst +an uncommon combination of perplexities and dangers, he traced this +coast near two thousand miles, from the 38° of south latitude, +cross the tropic, to its northern extremity, within 10° 1/2 of +the equinoctial, where it was found to join the lands already +explored by the Dutch, in several voyages from their Asiatic +settlements, and to which they have given the name of New Holland. +Those discoveries made in the last century, before Tasman's voyage, +had traced the north and the west coasts of this land; and Captain +Cook, by his extensive operations on its east side, left little to be +done toward completing the full circuit of it. Between Cape Hicks, in +latitude 38°, where his examination of this coast began, and that +part of Van Diemen's Land, from whence Tasman took his departure, was +not above fifty-five leagues. It was highly probable, therefore, that +they were connected; though Captain Cook cautiously says, that <i>he +could not determine whether</i> his New South Wales, that is, the +east coast of New Holland, <i>joins to Van Diemen's Land, or no</i>. +But what was thus left undetermined by the operations of his first +voyage, was, in the course of his second, soon cleared up; Captain +Furneaux, in the Adventure, during his separation from the Resolution +(a fortunate separation as it thus turned out) in 1773, having +explored Van Diemen's Land, from its southern point, along the east +coast, far beyond Tasman's station, and on to the latitude 38°, +where Captain Cook's examination of it in 1770 had commenced.</p> + +<p>It is no longer, therefore, a doubt, that we have now a full +knowledge of the whole circumference of this vast body of land, this +fifth part of the world (if I may so speak), which our late voyages +have discovered to be of so amazing a magnitude, that, to use Captain +Cook's words, it is of a larger extent than any other country in the +known world, that does not bear the name of a continent.[26]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 26: What the learned editor asserts here, as to +the full knowledge acquired by the voyages to which he alludes, must +be restricted, as Captain Flinders very properly remarks, to the +general extent of the vast region explored. It will not apply to the +particular formation of its coasts, for this plain reason, that the +chart accompanying the work, of which he was writing the +introduction, represents much of the south coast as totally unknown. +It is necessary to mention also, that what he says immediately +before, in allusion to the discoveries made by Captain Furaeaux, must +submit to correction. That officer committed some errors, owing, it +would appear, to the imperfection of preceding accounts; and he left +undetermined the interesting question as to the existence of a +connection betwixt Van Diemen's Land and New South Wales. The opinion +which he gave as to this point, on very insufficient <i>data</i> +certainly, viz. that there is "no strait between them, but a very +deep bay," has been most satisfactorily disproved, by the discovery +of the extensive passage which bears the name of Flinders's friend, +Mr Bass, the enterprising gentleman that accomplished +it.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>4. Tasman having entered the Pacific Ocean, after leaving Van +Diemen's Land, had fallen in with a coast to which he gave the name +of New Zealand. The extent of this coast, and its position in any +direction but a part of its west side, which he sailed along in his +course northward, being left absolutely unknown, it had been a +favourite opinion amongst geographers, since his time, that New +Zealand was a part of a southern continent, running north and south, +from the 33° to the 64° of south latitude, and its northern, +coast stretching cross the South Pacific to an immense distance, +where its eastern boundary had been seen by Juan Fernandez, half a +century before. Captain Cook's voyage in the Endeavour has totally +destroyed this supposition. Though Tasman must still have the credit +of having first seen New Zealand, to Captain Cook solely belongs that +of having really explored it. He spent near six months upon its +coasts in 1769 and 1770, circumnavigated it completely, and +ascertained its extent and division into two islands. Repeated visits +since that have perfected this important discovery, which, though now +known to be no part of a southern continent, will probably, in all +future charts of the world, be distinguished as the largest islands +that exist in that part of the southern hemisphere.</p> + +<p>5. Whether New Holland did or did not join to New Guinea, was a +question involved in much doubt and uncertainty, before Captain +Cook's sailing between them, through Endeavour Strait, decided it. We +will not hesitate to call this an important acquisition to geography. +For though the great sagacity and extensive reading of Mr Dalrymple +had discovered some traces of such a passage having been found +before, yet these traces were so obscure, and so little known in the +present age, that they had not generally regulated the construction +of our charts; the President de Brosses, who wrote in 1756, and was +well versed in geographical researches, had not been able to satisfy +himself about them; and Mons. de Bougainville, in 1768, who had +ventured to fall in with the south coast of New Guinea, near ninety +leagues to the westward of its south-east point, chose rather to work +those ninety leagues directly to windward, at a time when his people +were in such distress for provisions as to eat the seal-skins from +off the yards and rigging, than to run the risk of finding a passage, +of the existence of which he entertained the strongest doubts, by +persevering in his westerly course. Captain Cook, therefore, in this +part of his voyage (though he modestly disclaims all merit), has +established, beyond future controversy, a fact of essential service +to navigation, by opening, if not a new, at least an unfrequented and +forgotten communication between the South Pacific and Indian +Oceans.[27]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 27: We are indebted to Mr Dalrymple for the +recovery of an interesting document respecting a passage betwixt New +Holland and New Guinea, discovered by Torres, a Spanish navigator, in +1606. It was found among the archives of Manilla, when that city was +taken by the British, in 1762, being a copy of a letter which Torres +addressed to the king of Spain, giving an account of his discoveries. +The Spaniards, as usual, had kept the matter a profound secret, so +that the existence of the strait was generally unknown, till the +labours of Captain Cook, in 1770, entitled him to the merit here +assigned. Captain Flinders, it must be remembered, is of opinion, +that some suspicion of such a strait was entertained in 1644, when +Tasman sailed on his second voyage, but that the Dutch, who were then +engaged in making discoveries in these regions, were ignorant of its +having been passed. Several navigators have sailed through Torres's +Strait, as it has been justly enough named, since the time of Cook, +and have improved our acquaintance with its geography. Of these may +be mentioned Lieutenant (afterwards Rear-Admiral) Bligh, in 1789; +Captain (afterwards Admiral) Edwards, in 1791; Bligh, a second time, +accompanied by Lieutenant Portlock, in 1792; Messrs Bampton and Alt, +in 1793; and Captain Flinders, in 1802-3. The labours of the +last-mentioned gentleman in this quarter surpass, in utility and +interest, those of his predecessors, and, if he had accomplished +nothing else, would entitle his name to be ranked amongst the +benefactors of geography. What mind is so insensible as not to +regret, that after years of hardship and captivity, the very day +which presented the public with the memorial of his services and +sufferings, deprived him of the possibility of reaping their +reward?--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>6. One more discovery, for which we are indebted to Captain +Carteret, as similar in some degree to that last mentioned, may +properly succeed it, in this enumeration. Dampier, in sailing round +what was supposed to be part of the coast of New Guinea, discovered +it to belong to a separate island, to which he gave the name of New +Britain. But that the land which he named New Britain should be +subdivided again into two separate large islands, with many smaller +intervening, is a point of geographical information, which, if ever +traced by any of the earliest navigators of the South Pacific, had +not been handed down to the present age: And its having been +ascertained by Captain Carteret, deserves to be mentioned as a +discovery, in the strictest sense of the word; a discovery of the +utmost importance to navigation. St George's Channel, through which +his ship found a way, between New Britain and New Ireland, from the +Pacific into the Indian Ocean, to use the Captain's own words, "is a +much better and shorter passage, whether from the eastward or +westward, than round all the islands and lands to the +northward."[28]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 28: The position of the Solomon Islands, +Mendana's celebrated discovery, will no longer remain a matter in +debate amongst geographers, Mr Dalrymple having, on the most +satisfactory evidence, proved, that they are the cluster of islands +which comprises what has since been called New Britain, New Ireland, +etc. The great light thrown on that cluster by Captain Carteret's +discovery, is a strong confirmation of this.--See Mr Dalrymple's +Collection of Voyages, vol. i. p. 162-3.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>V. The voyages of Byron, Wallis, and Carteret, were principally +confined to a favourite object of discovery in the South Atlantic; +and though accessions to geography were procured by them in the South +Pacific, they could do but little toward giving the world a complete +view of the contents of that immense expanse of ocean, through which +they only held a direct track, on their way homeward by the East +Indies. Cook, indeed, who was appointed to the conduct of the +succeeding voyage, had a more accurate examination of the South +Pacific entrusted to him. But as the improvement of astronomy went +hand in hand, in his instructions, with that of geography, the +Captain's solicitude to arrive at Otaheite time enough to observe the +<i>transit</i> of Venus, put it out of his power to deviate from his +direct track, in search of unknown lands that might lie to the +south-east of that island. By this unavoidable attention to his duty, +a very considerable part of the South Pacific, and that part where +the richest mine of discovery was supposed to exist, remained +unvisited and unexplored, during that voyage in the Endeavour. To +remedy this, and to clear up a point, which, though many of the +learned were confident of, upon principles of speculative reasoning, +and many of the unlearned admitted, upon what they thought to be +credible testimony, was still held to be very problematical; if not +absolutely groundless, by others who were less sanguine or more +incredulous; his majesty, always ready to forward every enquiry that +can add to the stock of interesting knowledge in every branch, +ordered another expedition to be undertaken. The signal services +performed by Captain Cook, during his first voyage, of which we have +given the outlines, marked him as the fittest person to finish an +examination which he had already so skilfully executed in part. +Accordingly, he was sent out in 1772, with two ships, the Resolution +and Adventure, upon the most enlarged plan of discovery known in the +annals of navigation. For he was instructed not only to +circumnavigate the globe, but to circumnavigate it in high southern +latitudes, making such traverses, from time to time, into every +corner of the Pacific Ocean not before examined, as might finally and +effectually resolve the much-agitated question about the existence of +a southern continent, in any part of the southern hemisphere +accessible by navigation.</p> + +<p>The ample accessions to geography, by the discovery of many +islands within the tropic in the Pacific Ocean, in the course of this +voyage, which was carried on with singular perseverance, between +three and four years, have been already stated to the reader. But the +general search now made, throughout the whole southern hemisphere, as +being the principal object in view, hath been reserved for this +separate article. Here, indeed, we are not to take notice of lands +that have been discovered, but of seas sailed through, where lands +had been supposed to exist. In tracing the route of the Resolution +and Adventure, throughout the South Atlantic, the South Indian, and +the South Pacific Oceans that environ the globe, and combining it +with the route of the Endeavour, we receive what may be called ocular +demonstration, that Captain Cook, in his persevering researches, +sailed over many an extensive continent, which, though supposed to +have been seen by former navigators, at the approach of his ships, +sunk into the bosom of the ocean, and, "like the baseless fabric of a +vision, left not a rack behind."[29] It has been urged, that the +existence of a southern continent is necessary to preserve an +<i>equilibrium</i> between the two hemispheres. But however plausible +this theory may seem at first sight, experience has abundantly +detected its fallacy. In consequence of Captain Cook's voyage, now +under consideration, we have a thorough knowledge of the state of the +southern hemisphere, and can pronounce with certainty, that the +<i>equilibrium</i> of the globe is effectually preserved, though the +proportion of sea actually sailed through, leaves no sufficient space +for the corresponding mass of land; which, on speculative arguments, +had been maintained to be necessary.[30]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 29: A very long note in the original is +occupied by Mr Wales's reply to the observations of Monsieur le +Monier, in the memoirs of the French Academy of Sciences for 1776, +respecting what Captain Cook alleged in the account of his second +voyage, of the non-existence of Cape Circumcision, said to have been +discovered by Bouvet in 1738. As the subject, though exceedingly well +treated by Mr Wales, is in itself of scarce any importance, and has +long lost interest among scientific enquirers, who rest perfectly +content with Captain Cook's examination, there appeared no inducement +whatever to retain the note. The reader, it is confidently presumed, +will be satisfied with what was said of it in the account of the +former voyage.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 30: The judgment of the ingenious author of +<i>Recherches sur Américains</i>, on this question, seems to +be very deserving of a place here: "Qu'on calcule, comme on voudra, +on sera toujours contraint d'avouer, qu'il y a une plus grande +portion de continent située dans la latitude septentrionale, +que dans la latitude australe. + +<p>"C'est fort mal à-propos, qu'on a soutenu que cette +répartition inégale ne sauroit exister, sous +prétexte que le globe perdroit son équilibre, faute +d'un contrepoids suffisant au pole méridionale. Il est vrai +qu'un pied cube d'eau salée ne pese pas autant qu'un pied cube +de terre; mais on auroit dû réfléchir, qu'il peut +y avoir sous l'ocean des lits & des couches de matières, +dont la pésanteur spécifique varie à l'infini, +& que le peu de profondeur d'une mer, versée sur une +grande surface, contrebalance les endroits où il y a moins de +mer, mais où elle est plus profonde."--<i>Recherches +Philosophiques</i>, tom. ii, p. 375.--D.</p> + +<p>We offered some observations on this topic in the preceding +volume, and need scarcely resume it, as it cannot be imagined that +any of our readers still entertain the belief of the necessity for +such an equilibrium. The object in again alluding to it, is to call +attention to some observations of another kind, which Mr Jones has +hazarded in one of his Physiological Disquisitions. According to him, +no such thing as a southern counterpoise ought to have been expected, +for it seems to be the constitution of our globe, that land and water +are contrasted to each other on its opposite sides. "If," says he, +"you bring the meridian of the Cape of Good Hope under the brazen +circle, or universal meridian of a terrestrial globe, observing that +this meridian passes through the heart of the continents of Europe +and Africa, you will find that the opposite part of the meridian +passes through the middle of the great, south sea. When the middle of +the northern continent of America, about the meridian of Mexico, is +examined in the same way, the opposite part passes very exactly +through the middle of the Indian ocean. The southern continent of +America is opposed by that eastern sea which contains the East India +islands. The southern continent of New Holland is opposite to the +Atlantic ocean. This alternation, if I may so call it, between the +land and sea, is too regular to have been casual; and if the face of +the earth was so laid out by design, it was for some good reason. But +what that reason may be, it will be difficult to shew. Perhaps this +disposition may be of service to keep up a proper balance; or, it may +assist toward the diurnal rotation of the earth, the free motions of +the tides, etc.; or the water on one side may give a freer passage to +the rays of the sun, and being convex and transparent, may +concentrate, or at least condense, the solar rays internally, for +some benefit to the land that lies on the other side."--This sort of +reasoning, from our ignorance, is no doubt liable to objection, and +Mr Jones had good sense and candour enough to admit, that the +questions were too abstruse for him to determine. The proper part, +indeed, for man to act; is to investigate what Nature has done, not +to dogmatize as to the reasons for her conduct--to ascertain facts, +not to substitute conjectures in place of them. But it is allowable +for us, when we have done our best in collecting and examining +phenomena, to arrange them together according to any plausible theory +which our judgments can suggest. Still, however, we ought to +remember, that the most obviously imperative dictates of our +reasoning faculties are only inferences from present appearances, and +determine nothing as to the necessity of existing things.--E.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>If former navigators have added more land to the known globe than +Captain Cook, to him, at least, was reserved the honour of being +foremost in disclosing to us the extent of sea that covers its +surface. His own summary view of the transactions of this voyage, +will be a proper conclusion to these remarks: "I had now made the +circuit of the southern ocean in a high latitude, and traversed it in +such a manner as to leave not the least room for there being a +continent, unless near the Pole, and out of the reach of navigation. +By twice visiting the Tropical Sea, I had not only settled the +situation of some old discoveries, but made there many new ones, and +left, I conceive, very little to be done, even in that part. Thus I +flatter myself, that the intention of the voyage has, in every +respect, been fully answered; the southern hemisphere sufficiently +explored; and a final end put to the searching after a southern +continent, which has, at times, engrossed the attention of some of +the maritime powers for near two centuries past, and been a favourite +theory amongst the geographers of all ages."[31]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 31: Cook's second VoyagE.]</blockquote> + +<p>Thus far, therefore, the voyages to disclose new tracks of +navigation, and to reform old defects in geography, appear to have +been prosecuted with a satisfactory share of success. A perusal of +the foregoing summary of what had been done, will enable every one to +judge what was still wanting to complete the great plan of discovery. +The southern hemisphere had, indeed, been repeatedly visited, and its +utmost accessible extremities been surveyed. But much uncertainty, +and, of course, great variety of opinion, subsisted, as to the +navigable extremities of our own hemisphere; particularly as to the +existence, or, at least, as to the practicability of a northern +passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, either by sailing +eastward, round Asia, or westward, round North America.</p> + +<p>It was obvious, that if such a passage could be effected, voyages +to Japan and China, and, indeed, to the East Indies in general, would +be much shortened; and consequently become more profitable, than by +making the tedious circuit of the Cape of Good Hope. Accordingly, it +became a favourite object of the English to effectuate this, above +two centuries ago; and (to say nothing of Cabot's original attempt, +in 1497, which ended in the discovery of Newfoundland and the +Labradore coast) from Frobisher's first voyage to find a western +passage, in 1576, to those of James and of Fox, in 1631, repeated +trials had been made by our enterprising adventurers. But though +farther knowledge of the northern extent of America was obtained in +the course of these voyages, by the discovery of Hudson's and +Baffin's Bays, the wished-for passage, on that side, into the Pacific +Ocean, was still unattained. Our countrymen, and the Dutch, were +equally unsuccessful, in various attempts, to find this passage in an +eastern direction. Wood's failure, in 1676, seems to have closed the +long list of unfortunate northern expeditions in that century; and +the discovery, if not absolutely despaired of, by having been so +often missed, ceased, for many years, to be sought for.</p> + +<p>Mr Dobbs, a warm advocate for the probability of a north-west +passage through Hudson's Bay, in our own time, once more recalled the +attention of this country to that undertaking; and, by his active +zeal, and persevering solicitation, renewed the spirit of discovery. +But it was renewed in vain. For Captain Middleton, sent out by +government in 1741, and Captains Smith and Moore, by a private +society, in 1746, though encouraged by an act of parliament passed in +the preceding year, that annexed a reward of twenty thousand pounds +to the discovery of a passage, returned from Hudson's Bay with +reports of their proceedings, that left the accomplishment of this +favourite object at as great a distance as ever.</p> + +<p>When researches of this kind, no longer left to the solicitation +of an individual, or to the subscriptions of private adventurers, +became cherished by the royal attention, in the present reign, and +warmly promoted by the minister at the head of the naval department, +it was impossible, while so much was done toward exploring the +remotest corners of the southern hemisphere, that the northern +passage should not be attempted. Accordingly, while Captain Cook was +prosecuting his voyage toward the South Pole in 1773, Lord Mulgrave +sailed with two ships, <i>to determine how far navigation was +practicable toward the North Pole</i>. And though his lordship met +with the same insuperable bar to his progress which former navigators +had experienced, the hopes of opening a communication between the +Pacific and Atlantic Oceans by a northerly course, were not +abandoned; and a voyage for that purpose was ordered to be +undertaken.[32]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 32: Dr Douglas refers to the introduction to +Lord Mulgrave's Journal for a history of former attempts to sail +toward the North Pole; and to Barrington's Miscellanies for several +instances of ships reaching very high north +latitudes.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The operations proposed to be pursued were so new, so extensive, +and so various, that the skill and experience of Captain Cook, it was +thought, would be requisite to conduct them. Without being liable to +any charge of want of zeal for the public service, he might have +passed the rest of his days in the command to which he had been +appointed in Greenwich Hospital, there to enjoy the fame he had +dearly earned in two circumnavigations of the world. But he +cheerfully relinquished this honourable station at home; and, happy +that the Earl of Sandwich had not cast his eye upon any other +commander, engaged in the conduct of the expedition, the history of +which is now given, an expedition that would expose him to the toils +and perils of a third circumnavigation, by a track hitherto +unattempted.[33] Every former navigator round the globe had made his +passage home to Europe by the Cape of Good Hope; the arduous task was +now assigned to Captain Cook of attempting it, by reaching the high +northern latitudes between Asia and America. So that the usual plan +of discovery was reversed; and, instead of a passage from the +Atlantic to the Pacific, one from the latter into the former was to +be tried. For it was wisely foreseen, that whatever openings or +inlets there might be on the east side of America, which lie in a +direction that could give any hopes of a passage, the ultimate +success of it would still depend upon there being an open sea between +the west side of that continent and the extremities of Asia. Captain +Cook, therefore, was ordered to proceed into the Pacific Ocean, +through the chain of his new islands in the southern tropic; and, +having crossed the equator into its northern parts, then to hold such +a course as might probably fix many interesting points in geography, +and produce intermediate discoveries, in his progress northward to +the principal scene of his operations.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 33: It is due to history, and to the character +of Cook, to mention a circumstance respecting his appointment to this +expedition, which strikingly proves the high opinion entertained of +his abilities for it, and, at the same time, his zeal for the +promotion of useful discoveries, and the prosperity of his country. +This is done from the information of Lord Sandwich, as communicated +in the memoir of Cook inserted in the Biog. Brit. When the enterprise +was determined on, it became of extreme consequence to select a +proper person to undertake the execution of it. Captain Cook most +naturally obtained this respect; and at once, without the possibility +of rivalship, would have been appointed to the command, did not a +conviction and feeling of sympathy for his former sufferings and +important services, restrain his warmest friends from the slightest +expression of what they unanimously desired. Concealing, therefore, +their opinion, and avoiding every thing of the nature of +solicitation, they, nevertheless, thought it advisable to consult his +well-informed judgment relative to the nature of the undertaking, and +the person most likely to perform it. For this purpose, Captain Cook, +Sir Hugh Palliser, and Mr Stephens, were invited to dine with Lord +Sandwich, when the whole affair was discussed. The representation of +its magnitude, and beneficial consequences, roused the enthusiasm of +the navigator; and starting up, he declared that he himself would +undertake its accomplishment. This magnanimous resolution was +joyfully received, and could not fail to produce the most sanguine +hopes of at least an honourable, if not a successful, issue. His +appointment was immediately made out; and it was agreed, that on +returning to England, he should have his situation at Greenwich +restored.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>But the plan of the voyage, and the various objects it embraced, +will best appear from the instructions under which Captain Cook +sailed; and the insertion of them here, will convey such authentic +information as may enable the reader to judge with precision how far +they have been carried into execution.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<p>By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord High Admiral +of Great Britain and Ireland, etc.</p> + +<p><i>Secret Instructions for Captain James Cook, Commander of his +Majesty's Sloop the Resolution</i>.</p> + +<p>Whereas the Earl of Sandwich has signified to us his majesty's +pleasure, that an attempt should be made to find out a northern +passage by sea from the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean; and whereas we +have, in pursuance thereof, caused his majesty's sloops Resolution +and Discovery to be fitted, in all respects, proper to proceed upon a +voyage for the purpose above-mentioned, and, from the experience we +have had of your abilities and good conduct in your late voyages, +have thought fit to entrust you with the conduct of the present +intended voyage, and with that view appointed you to command the +first-mentioned sloop, and directed Captain Clerke, who commands the +other, to follow your orders for his further proceedings. You are +hereby required and directed to proceed with the said two sloops +directly to the Cape of Good Hope, unless you shall judge it +necessary to stop at Madeira, the Cape de Verd or Canary Islands, to +take in wine for the use of their companies; in which case you are at +liberty to do so, taking care to remain there no longer than may be +necessary for that purpose.</p> + +<p>On your arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, you are to refresh the +sloops' companies, and to cause the sloops to be supplied with as +much provisions and water as they can conveniently stow.</p> + +<p>You are, if possible, to leave the Cape of Good Hope by the end of +October, or the beginning of November next, and proceed to the +southward, in search of some islands said to have been lately seen by +the French, in the latitude 48° 0' S., and about the meridian of +Mauritius. In case you find those islands, you are to examine them +thoroughly for a good harbour; and, upon discovering one, make the +necessary observations to facilitate the finding it again, as a good +port, in that situation, may hereafter prove very useful, although it +should afford little or nothing more than shelter, wood, and water. +You are not, however, to spend too much time in looking out for those +islands, or in the examination of them, if found, but proceed to +Otaheite, or the Society Isles, (touching at New Zealand in your way +thither, if you should judge it necessary and convenient,) and taking +care to arrive there time enough to admit of your giving the sloops' +companies the refreshment they may stand in need of, before you +prosecute the farther object of these instructions.</p> + +<p>Upon your arrival at Otaheite, or the Society Isles, you are to +land Omiah at such of them as he may choose, and to leave him +there.</p> + +<p>You are to distribute among the chiefs of those islands such part +of the presents with which you have been supplied, as you shall judge +proper, reserving the remainder to distribute among the natives of +the countries you may discover in the northern hemisphere. And having +refreshed the people belonging to the sloops under your command, and +taken on board such wood and water as they may respectively stand in +need of, you are to leave those islands in the beginning of February, +or sooner if you shall judge it necessary, and then proceed in as +direct a course as you can to the coast of New Albion, endeavouring +to fall in with it in the latitude of 45° 0' N.; and taking care, +in your way thither, not to lose any time in search of new lands, or +to stop at any you may fall in with, unless you find it necessary to +recruit your wood and water.</p> + +<p>You are also, in your way thither, strictly enjoined not to touch +upon any part of the Spanish dominions on the western continent of +America, unless driven thither by some unavoidable accident; in which +case you are to stay no longer there than shall be absolutely +necessary, and to be very careful not to give any umbrage or offence +to any of the inhabitants or subjects of his catholic majesty. And +if, in your farther progress to the northward, as hereafter directed, +you find any subjects of any European prince or state upon any part +of the coast you may think proper to visit, you are not to disturb +them, or give them any just cause of offence, but, on the contrary, +to treat them with civility and friendship.</p> + +<p>Upon your arrival on the coast of New Albion, you are to put into +the first convenient port to recruit your wood and water, and procure +refreshments, and then to proceed northward along the coast as far as +the latitude of 65°, or farther, if you are not obstructed by +lands or ice, taking care not to lose any time in exploring rivers or +inlets, or upon any other account, until you get into the +before-mentioned latitude of 65°, where we could wish you to +arrive in the month of June next. When you get that length, you are +carefully to search for, and to explore, such rivers or inlets as may +appear to be of a considerable extent, and pointing towards Hudson's +or Baffin's Bays; and if, from your own observations, or from any +information you may receive from the natives, (who, there is reason +to believe, are the same race of people, and speak the same language, +of which you are furnished with a vocabulary, as the Esquimaux,) +there shall appear to be a certainty, or even a probability, of a +water passage into the afore-mentioned bays, or either of them, you +are, in such case, to use your utmost endeavours to pass through with +one or both of the sloops, unless you shall be of opinion that the +passage may be effected with more certainty, or with greater +probability, by smaller vessels; in which case you are to set up the +frames of one or both the small vessels with which you are provided, +and, when they are put together, and are properly fitted, stored, and +victualled, you are to dispatch one or both of them, under the care +of proper officers, with a sufficient number of petty officers, men, +and boats, in order to attempt the said passage, with such +instructions for their rejoining you, if they should fail, or for +their farther proceedings, if they should succeed in the attempt, as +you shall judge most proper. But, nevertheless, if you shall find it +more eligible to pursue any other measures than those above pointed +out, in order to make a discovery of the beforementioned passage, (if +any such there be,) you are at liberty, and we leave it to your +discretion, to pursue such measures accordingly.</p> + +<p>In case you shall be satisfied that there is no passage through to +the above-mentioned bays, sufficient for the purposes of navigation, +you are, at the proper season of the year, to repair to the port of +St Peter and St Paul in Kamtschatka, or wherever else you shall judge +more proper, in order to refresh your people and pass the winter; +and, in the spring of the ensuing year 1778 to proceed from thence to +the northward, as far as, in your prudence, you may think proper, in +further search of a N.E. or N.W. passage from the Pacific Ocean into +the Atlantic Ocean, or the North Sea; and if, from your own +observation, or any information you may receive, there shall appear +to be a probability of such a passage, you are to proceed as above +directed: and having discovered such passage, or failed in the +attempt, make the best of your way back to England, by such route as +you may think best for the improvement of geography and navigation, +repairing to Spithead with both sloops, where they are to remain till +further order.</p> + +<p>At whatever places you may touch in the course of your voyage, +where accurate observations of the nature hereafter mentioned have +not already been made, you are, as far as your time will allow, very +carefully to observe the true situation of such places, both in +latitude and longitude; the variation of the needle; bearings of +head-lands; height, direction, and course of the tides and currents; +depths and soundings of the sea; shoals, rocks, etc.; and also to +survey, make charts, and take views of such bays, harbours, and +different parts of the coast, and to make such notations thereon as +may be useful either to navigation or commerce. You are also +carefully to observe the nature of the soil, and the produce thereof; +the animals and fowls that inhabit or frequent it; the fishes that +are to be found in the rivers or upon the coast, and in what plenty; +and, in case there are any peculiar to such places, to describe them +as minutely, and to make as accurate drawings of them, as you can; +and, if you find any metals, minerals, or valuable stones, or any +extraneous fossils, you are to bring home specimens of each, as also +of the seeds of such trees, shrubs, plants, fruits, and grains, +peculiar to those places, as you may be able to collect, and to +transmit them to our secretary, that proper examination and +experiments may be made of them. Yon are likewise to observe the +genius, temper, disposition, and number of the natives and +inhabitants, where you find any; and to endeavour, by all proper +means, to cultivate a friendship with them, making them presents of +such trinkets as you may have on board, and they may like best, +inviting them to traffic, and shewing them every kind of civility and +regard; but taking care, nevertheless, not to suffer yourself to be +surprised by them, but to be always on your guard against any +accidents.</p> + +<p>You are also, with the consent of the natives, to take possession, +in the name of the King of Great Britain, of convenient situations in +such countries as you may discover, that have not already been +discovered or visited by any other European power, and to distribute +among the inhabitants such things as will remain as traces and +testimonies of your having been there; but if you find the countries +so discovered are uninhabited, you are to take possession of them for +his majesty, by setting up proper marks and inscriptions, as first +discoverers and possessors.</p> + +<p>But forasmuch as, in undertakings of this nature, several +emergencies may arise not to be foreseen, and therefore not +particularly to be provided for by instructions before-hand, you are, +in all such cases, to proceed as you shall judge most advantageous to +the service on which you are employed.</p> + +<p>You are, by all opportunities, to send to our secretary, for our +information, accounts of your proceedings, and copies of the surveys +and drawings you shall have made; and upon your arrival in England, +you are immediately to repair to this office, in order to lay before +us a full account of your proceedings in the whole course of your +voyage, taking care, before you leave the sloop, to demand from the +officers and petty officers the log-books and journals they may have +kept, and to seal them up for inspection; and enjoining them, and the +whole crew, not to divulge where they have been, until they shall +have permission so to do: And you are to direct Captain Clerke to do +the same, with respect to the officers, petty officers, and crew of +the Discovery.</p> + +<p>If any accident should happen to the Resolution in the course of +the voyage, so as to disable her from proceeding any farther, you +are, in such case, to remove yourself and her crew into the +Discovery, and to prosecute your voyage in her; her commander being +hereby strictly required to receive you on board, and to obey your +orders, the same, in every respect, as when you were actually on +board the Resolution. And, in case of your inability, by sickness or +otherwise, to carry these instructions into execution, you are to be +careful to leave them with the next officer in command, who is hereby +required to execute them in the best manner he can.</p> + +<p>Given under our hands the 6th day of July, 1776,</p> + +<p>SANDWICH,<br> + C. SPENCER,<br> + H. PALLISER.</p> + +<p>By command of their lordships,</p> + +<p>PH. STEPHENS.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>Besides ordering Captain Cook to sail on this important voyage, +government, in earnest about the object of it, adopted a measure, +which, while it could not but have a powerful operation on the crews +of the Resolution and Discovery, by adding the motives of interest to +the obligations of duty, at the same time encouraged all his +majesty's subjects to engage in attempts toward the proposed +discovery. By the act of parliament, passed in 1745,[34] a reward of +twenty thousand pounds had been held out. But it had been held out +only to the ships belonging to any of his majesty's subjects, +exclusive of his majesty's own ships. The act had a still more +capital defect. It held out this reward only to such ships as should +discover a passage through Hudson's Bay; and, as we shall soon take +occasion to explain, it was, by this time, pretty certain that no +such passage existed within those limits. Effectual care was taken to +remedy both these defects by passing a new law; which, after reciting +the provisions of the former, proceeds as follows:--"And whereas many +advantages, both to commerce and science, may be also expected from +the discovery of any northern passage for vessels by sea, between the +Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, be it enacted, That if any ship +belonging to any of his majesty's subjects, or to his majesty, shall +find out, and sail through, any passage by sea between the Atlantic +and Pacific Oceans, in any direction, or parallel of the northern +hemisphere, to the northward of the 52° of northern latitude, the +owners of such ships, if belonging to any of his majesty's subjects, +or the commander, officers, and seamen of such ship belonging to his +majesty, shall receive, as a reward for such discovery, the sum of +twenty thousand pounds.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 34: See the Statutes at Large, 18 George II. +chap. 17.]</blockquote> + +<p>"And whereas ships employed, both in the Spitzbergen Seas, and in +Davis's Straits, have frequent opportunities of approaching the North +Pole, though they have not time, during the course of one summer, to +penetrate into the Pacific Ocean; and whereas such approaches may +greatly tend to the discovery of a communication between the Atlantic +and Pacific Oceans, as well as be attended with many advantages to +commerce and science, etc. be it enacted, That if any ship shall +approach to within 1° of the North Pole, the owner, etc. or +commander, etc. so approaching, shall receive, as a reward for such +first approach, the sum of five thousand pounds."[35]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 35: See the Statutes at Large, 1776, 16 George +III. chap. 6.]</blockquote> + +<p>That nothing might be omitted that could facilitate the success of +Captain Cook's expedition, some time before he sailed, in the +beginning of the summer of 1776, Lieutenant Pickersgill, appointed +commander of his majesty's armed brig the Lion, was ordered "to +proceed to Davis's Straits, for the protection of the British whale +fishers;" and that first object being secured, "he was then required +and directed to proceed up Baffin's Bay, and explore the coasts +thereof, as far as in his judgment the same could be done without +apparent risk, taking care to leave the above-mentioned bay so timely +as to secure his return to England in the fall of the year;" and it +was farther enjoined to him, "to make nautical remarks of every kind, +and to employ Mr Lane (master of the vessel under his command) in +surveying, making charts, and taking views of the several bays, +harbours, and different parts of the coast which he might visit, and +in making such notations thereon as might be useful to geography and +navigation."[36]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 36: From his MS. Instructions, dated May 14, +1776.]</blockquote> + +<p>Pickersgill, we see, was not to attempt the discovery of the +passage. He was directed to explore the coasts of Baffin's Bay, only +to enable him to bring back, the same year, some information, which +might be an useful direction toward planning an intended voyage into +that bay the ensuing summer, to try for the discovery of a passage on +that side, with a view to co-operate with Captain Cook; who, it was +supposed, (from the tenor of his instructions,) would be trying for +this passage, about the same time, from the opposite side of +America.</p> + +<p>Pickersgill, obeying his instructions, at least in this instance, +did return that year, but there were sufficient reasons for not +sending him out again, and the command of the next expedition into +Baffin's Bay was conferred on Lieutenant Young; whose instructions, +having an immediate connection with our voyage, are here +inserted.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p><i>Extract of Instructions to Lieutenant Young, commanding the +Lion Armed Vessel, dated 13th March, 1777</i>.</p> + +<p>Resolution.} Whereas, in pursuance of the king's pleasure, +Discovery } signified to us by the Earl of Sandwich, his majesty's +sloops named in the margin have been sent out under the command of +Captain Cook, in order, during this and the ensuing year, to attempt +a discovery of a northern passage, by sea, from the Pacific to the +Atlantic ocean; and, for that purpose, to run up as high as the +latitude of 65° N., where it is hoped he will be able to arrive +in the month of June next; and there, and as much further to the +northward as in his prudence he shall think proper, very carefully to +search for and explore such rivers, or inlets, as may appear to be of +a considerable extent, and pointing to Hudson's or Baffin's Bays, or +the north sea; and, upon finding any passage through, sufficient for +the purposes of navigation, to attempt such passage with one or both +of the sloops; or, if they are judged to be too large, with smaller +vessels, the frames of which have been sent out with him for that +purpose: And whereas, in pursuance of his majesty's further pleasure, +signified as aforesaid, the armed vessel under your command hath been +fitted in order to proceed to Baffin's Bay, with a view to explore +the western parts thereof, and to endeavour to find a passage on that +side, from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, and we have thought fit +to intrust you with the conduct of that voyage; you are therefore +hereby required and directed to put to sea in the said armed vessel, +without a moment's loss of time, and make the best of your way into +Baffin's Bay, and to use your best endeavours to explore the western +shores thereof, as far as in your judgment the same can be done, +without apparent risk, and to examine such considerable rivers or +inlets as you may discover; and in case you find any, through which +there may be a probability of passing into the Pacific ocean, you are +to attempt such passage; and if you succeed in the attempt, and shall +be able to repass it again, so as to return to England this year, you +are to make the best of your way to Spithead, or the Nore, and remain +there until you receive further order; sending us an account of your +arrival and proceedings. But if you shall succeed in the attempt, and +shall find the season too far advanced for you to return the same +way, you are then to look out for the most convenient place to winter +in, and to endeavour to return by the said passage as early in the +next year as the season will admit, and then to make the best of your +way to England, as above directed.</p> + +<p>In case, however, you should not find, or should be satisfied +there is not any probability of finding any such passage, or, finding +it, you should not be able to get through in the vessel you command, +you are then to return to England, as before-mentioned, unless you +shall find any branch of the sea leading to the westward which you +shall judge likely to afford a communication between the Atlantic and +Pacific oceans, and which you shall not be able to explore in the +course of this year, it being, in that case, left to your discretion +to stay the winter in the most commodious situation you can find, in +order to pursue the discovery next year, if you shall find it +advisable so to do; and, having discovered such passage, or not +succeeded in the attempt, you are to make the best of your way to +England, as above directed.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>It was natural to hope, that something would have been done in one +or other, or in both these voyages of the Lion, that might have +opened our views with regard to the practicability of a passage from +this side of America. But, unfortunately, the execution did not +answer the expectations conceived. Pickersgill, who had acquired +professional experience when acting under Captain Cook, justly +merited the censure he received, for improper behaviour when +intrusted with command in Davis's Strait; and the talents of Young, +as it afterward appeared, were more adapted to contribute to the +glory of a victory, as commander of a line of battle-ship, than to +add to geographical discoveries, by encountering mountains of ice, +and exploring unknown coasts.[37]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 37: In the Philosophical Transactions, vol. +lxviii. p, 1057, we have the track of Pickersgill's voyage, which, +probably, may be of use to our Greenland ships, as it contains many +observations for fixing the longitude and latitude of the coasts in +Davis's Strait. But it appears that he never entered Baffin's Bay, +the highest northern latitude to which he advanced being 68° 14'. +As to Young's proceedings, having failed absolutely in making any +discovery, it is of less consequence, that no communication of his +journal could be procured.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>Both Pickersgill and Young having been ordered to proceed into +Baffin's Bay; and Captain Cook being directed not to begin his search +till he should arrive in the latitude of 65°, it may not be +improper to say something here of the reasons which weighed with +those who planned the voyages, and framed the instructions, to carry +their views so far northward, as the proper situation, where the +passage, if it existed at all, was likely to be attempted with +success. It may be asked, why was Hudson's Bay neglected on our side +of America; and why was not Captain Cook ordered to begin his search +on its opposite side, in much lower latitudes? particularly, why not +explore the strait leading into the western sea of John de Fuca, +between the latitudes of 47° and 48°; the Archipelago of St +Lazarus of Admiral de Fonte, between 50° and 55°; and the +rivers and lakes through which he found a passage north-eastward, +till he met with a ship from Boston?</p> + +<p>As to the pretended discoveries of de Fuca, the Greek pilot, or of +de Fonte, the Spanish admiral, though they have sometimes found their +way into fictitious maps, or have been warmly contended for by the +espousers of fanciful systems, to have directed Captain Cook to spend +any time in tracing them, would have been as wise a measure as if he +had been directed to trace the situation of Lilliput or Brobdignag. +The latter are, indeed, confessedly, mere objects of imagination; and +the former, destitute of any sufficient external evidence, bear so +many striking marks of internal absurdity, as warrant our pronouncing +them to be the fabric of imposture. Captain Cook's instructions were +founded on an accurate knowledge of what had been already done, and +of what still remained to do; and this knowledge pointed out the +inutility of beginning his search for a passage till his arrival in +the latitude of 65°. Of this every fair and capable enquirer will +be abundantly convinced, by an attention to the following +particulars:</p> + +<p>Middleton, who commanded the expedition in 1741 and 1742, into +Hudson's Bay, had proceeded farther north than any of his +predecessors in that navigation. But though, from his former +acquaintance with that bay, to which he had frequently sailed in the +service of the company, he had entertained hopes of finding out a +passage through it into the Pacific Ocean, the observations which he +was now enabled to make, induced him to change his opinion; and, on +his return to England, he made an unfavourable report. Mr Dobbs, the +patron of the enterprise, did not acquiesce in this; and, fortified +in his original idea of the practicability of the passage, by the +testimony of some of Middleton's officers, he appealed to the public, +accusing him of having misrepresented facts, and of having, from +interested motives, in concert with the Hudson's Bay Company, decided +against the practicability of the passage, though the discoveries of +his own voyage had put it within his reach.</p> + +<p>He had, between the latitude of 65° and 66°, found a very +considerable inlet running westward, into which he entered with his +ships; and, "after repeated trials of the tides, and endeavours to +discover the nature and course of the opening, for three weeks +successively, he found the flood constantly to come from the +eastward, and that it was a large river he had got into," to which he +gave the name of Wager River."[38]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 38: See the Abstract of his Journal, published +by Mr Dobbs.]</blockquote> + +<p>The accuracy, or rather the fidelity, of this report, was denied +by Mr Dobbs, who contended that this opening <i>is a strait, and not +a fresh-water river</i>; and that Middleton, if he had examined it +properly, would have found a passage through it to the western +American Ocean. The failure of this voyage, therefore, only served to +furnish our zealous advocate for the discovery, with new arguments +for attempting it once more; and he had the good fortune, after +getting the reward of twenty thousand pounds established by act of +parliament, to prevail upon a society of gentlemen and merchants to +fit out the Dobbs and California; which ships, it was hoped, would be +able to find their way into the Pacific Ocean, by the very opening +which Middleton's Voyage had pointed out, and which he was believed +to have misrepresented.</p> + +<p>This renovation of hope only produced fresh disappointment For it +is well known, that the voyage of the Dobbs and California, instead +of confuting, strongly confirmed all that Middleton had asserted. The +supposed strait was found to be nothing more than a fresh-water +river, and its utmost western navigable boundaries were now +ascertained, by accurate examination. But though Wager's Strait had +thus disappointed our hopes, as had also done Rankin's Inlet, which +was now found to be a close bay; and though other arguments, founded +on the supposed course of the tides in Hudson's Bay, appeared to be +groundless, such is our attachment to an opinion once adopted, that, +even after the unsuccessful issue of the voyage of the Dobbs and +California, a passage through some other place in that bay was, by +many, considered as attainable; and, particularly, Chesterfield's +(formerly: called Bowden's) Inlet, lying between latitude 65° and +64°, succeeded Wager's Strait, in the sanguine expectations of +those who remained unconvinced by former disappointments. Mr Ellis, +who was on board the Dobbs, and who wrote the history of the voyage, +holds up this, as one of the places where the passage may be sought +for, upon very rational grounds, and with very good effects.[39] He +also mentions Repulse Bay, nearly in latitude 67°; but as to this +he speaks less confidently; only saying, that by an attempt there, we +might probably approach nearer to the discovery.[40] He had good +reason for thus guarding his expression; for the committee, who +directed this voyage, admitting the impracticability of effecting a +passage at Repulse Bay, had refused allowing the ships to go into it, +being satisfied as to that place.[41]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 39: Ellis's Voyage, p. 328.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 40: Ibid, p. 330.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 41: Account of the voyage, by the clerk of the +California, vol. ii. p. 273. Mr Dobbs himself says, "That he thought +the passage would be impracticable, or, at least, very difficult, in +case there was one farther north than 67°."--<i>Account of +Hudson's Bay</i>, p. 99.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>Setting Repulse Bay, therefore, aside, within which we have no +reason for believing that any inlet exists, there did not remain any +part of Hudson's Bay to be searched, but Chesterfield's Inlet, and a +small tract of coast between the latitude 62°, and what is called +the South Point of Main, which had been left unexplored by the Dobbs +and California.</p> + +<p>But this last gleam of hope has now disappeared. The aversion of +the Hudson's Bay Company to contribute any thing to the discovery of +a north-west passage had been loudly reported by Mr Dobbs; and the +public seemed to believe that the charge was well founded. But still, +in justice to them, it must be allowed, that in 1720, they had sent +Messrs Knight and Barlow, in a sloop on this very discovery; but +these unfortunate people were never more heard of. Mr Scroggs, who +sailed in search of them, in 1722, only brought back proofs of their +shipwreck, but no fresh intelligence about a passage, which he was +also to look for. They also sent a sloop, and a shallop, to try for +this discovery, in 1787; but to no purpose. If obstructions were +thrown in the way of Captain Middleton, and of the commanders of the +Dobbs and California, the governor and committee of the Hudson's Bay +Company, since that time, we must acknowledge, have made amends for +the narrow prejudices, of their predecessors; and we have it in our +power to appeal to facts, which abundantly testify, that every thing +has been done by them, that could be required by the public, toward +perfecting the search for a north-west passage.</p> + +<p>In the year 1761, Captain Christopher sailed from Fort Churchill, +in the sloop Churchill; and his voyage was not quite fruitless; for +he sailed up Chesterfield's Inlet, through which a passage had, by Mr +Ellis's account of it, been so generally expected. But when the water +turned brackish, which marked that he was not in a strait, but in a +river, he returned.</p> + +<p>To leave no room for a variety of opinion, however, he was ordered +to repeat the voyage the ensuing summer, in the same sloop, and Mr +Norton, in a cutter, was appointed to attend him. By the favour of +the governor and committee of the company, the journals of Captain +Christopher, and of Mr Norton, and Captain Christopher's chart of the +inlet, have been readily communicated. From these authentic +documents, it appears that the search and examination of +Chesterfield's Inlet was now completed. It was found to end in a +fresh-water lake, at the distance of about one hundred and seventy +miles from the sea. This lake was found also to be about twenty-one +leagues long, and from five to ten broad, and to be completely closed +up on every side, except to the west, where there was a little +rivulet; to survey the state of which, Mr Norton and the crew of the +cutter having landed, and marched up the country, saw that it soon +terminated in three falls, one above another, and not water for a +small boat over them; and ridges, mostly dry from side to side, for +five, or six miles higher.</p> + +<p>Thus ends Chesterfield's Inlet, and all Mr Ellis's expectations of +a passage through it to the western ocean. The other parts of the +coast, from latitude 62°, to the South Point of Main, within +which limits hopes were also entertained of finding a passage, have, +of late years, been thoroughly explored. It is here that Pistol Bay +is situated; which the author who has writ last in this country, on +the probability of a north-west passage,[42] speaks of as the only +remaining part of Hudson's Bay where this western communication may +exist. But this has been also examined; and, on the authority of +Captain Christopher, we can assure the reader, that there is no inlet +of any consequence in all that part of the coast. Nay, he has, in an +open boat, sailed round the bottom of what is called Pistol Bay, and, +in stead of a passage to a western sea, found it does not run above +three or four miles inland.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 42: Printed for Jeffreys, in 1768. His words +are, "There remains then to be searched for the discovery of a +passage, the opening called Pistol Bay, in Hudson's Bay," p. +122--D]</blockquote> + +<p>Besides these voyages by sea, which satisfy us that we must not +look for a passage to the south of 67° of latitude, we are +indebted to the Hudson's Bay Company for a journey by land, which has +thrown much additional light on this matter, by affording what may be +called demonstration, how much farther north, at least in some part +of their voyage, ships must hold their course, before they can pass +from one side of America to the other. The northern Indians, who come +down to the company's forts for trade, had brought to the knowledge +of our people, the existence of a river, which, from copper abounding +near it, had got the name of the Copper-mine River. We read much +about this river in Mr Dobbs's publications, and he considers the +Indian accounts of it as favourable to his system. The company being +desirous of examining the matter with precision, instructed their +governor of Prince of Wales's Fort, to send a proper person to travel +by land, under the escort of some trusty northern Indians, with +orders to proceed to this famous river, to take an accurate survey of +its course, and to trace it to the sea, into which it empties itself. +Mr Hearne, a young gentleman in their service, who, having been an +officer in the navy, was well qualified to make observations for +fixing the longitude and latitude, and make drawings of the country +he should pass through, and of the river which he was to examine, was +appointed for this service.</p> + +<p>Accordingly, he set out from Fort Prince of Wales, on Churchill +River, in latitude 58° 50', on the 7th of December, 1770; and the +whole of his proceedings, from time to time, are faithfully preserved +in his journal. The publication of this is an acceptable present to +the world, as it draws a plain artless picture of the savage modes of +life, the scanty means of subsistence, and indeed of the singular +wretchedness, in every respect, of the various tribes, who, without +fixed habitations, pass their miserable lives, roving throughout the +dreary deserts, and over the frozen lakes of the immense tract of +continent through which Mr Hearne passed, and which he may be said to +have added to the geography of the globe. His general course was to +the northwest. In the month of June 1771, being then at a place +called <i>Conge catha wha Chaga</i>, he had, to use his own words, +two good observations, both by meridian and double altitudes, the +mean of which determines this place to be in latitude 66° 46' N., +and, by account, in longitude 24° 2' W. of Churchill River. On +the 13th of July (having left <i>Conge catha wha Chaga</i> on the 3d, +and travelling still to the west of north) he reached the Copper-mine +River; and was not a little surprised to find it differ so much from +the descriptions given of it by the natives at the fort; for, instead +of being likely to be navigable for a ship, it is, at this part, +scarcely navigable for an Indian canoe; three falls being in sight, +at one view, and being choaked up with shoals and stony ridges.</p> + +<p>Here Mr Hearne began his survey of the river. This he continued +till he arrived at its mouth, near which his northern Indians +massacred twenty-one Esquimaux, whom they surprised in their tents. +We shall give Mr Hearne's account of his arrival at the sea, in his +own words: "After the Indians had plundered the tents of the +Esquimaux of all the copper, etc. they were then again ready to +assist me in making an end to the survey; the sea then in sight from +the N.W. by W. to the N.E., distant about eight miles. It was then +about five in the morning of the 17th, when I again proceeded to +survey the river to the mouth, still found, in every respect, no ways +likely, or a possibility of being made navigable, being full of +shoals and falls; and, at the entrance, the river emptying itself +over a dry flat of the shore. For the tide was then out, and seemed, +by the edges of the ice, to flow about twelve or fourteen feet, which +will only reach a little within the river's mouth. That being the +case, the water in the river had not the least brackish taste. But I +am sure of its being the sea, or some part thereof, by the quantity +of whale-bone and seal-skins the Esquimaux had at their tents; as +also the number of seals which I saw upon the ice. The sea, at the +river's mouth, was full of islands and shoals, as far as I could see, +by the assistance of a pocket-telescope; and the ice was not yet +broken up, only thawed away about three quarters of a mile from the +snore, and a little way round the islands and shoals.</p> + +<p>"By the time I had completed this survey, it was about one in the +morning of the 18th; but in these high latitudes, and this time of +the year, the sun is always a good height above the horizon. It then +came on a thick drizzling rain, with a thick fog; and, as finding the +river and sea, in every respect, not likely to be of any utility, I +did not think it worth while to wait for fair weather, to determine +the latitude exactly by an observation. But, by the extraordinary +care I took in observing the courses and distances, walked from +<i>Conge catha wha Chaga</i>, where I had two good observations, the +latitude may be depended on, within twenty miles at farthest."</p> + +<p>From the map which Mr Hearne constructed of the country through +which he passed, in this singular journey, it appears that the mouth +of the Copper-mine River lies in the latitude 72°, and above +25° west longitude from the fort, from whence he took his +departure.[43]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 43: Mr Hearne's journey, back from the +Copper-mine River, to Fort Prince of Wales, lasted till June 30, +1772. From his first setting out till his return, he had employed +near a year and seven months. The unparalleled hardships he suffered, +and the essential service he performed, met with a suitable reward +from his masters, and he was made governor of Fort Prince of Wales, +where he was taken prisoner by the French in 1782; but soon +afterwards returned to his station."--D. + +<p>This opportunity is taken to mention, that Mr Arrowsmith lays down +Copper-mine River in longitude 113°, and not in 120°, +according to Mr Hearne. In the opinion of Mr H. this river flows into +an inland sea. Be this as it may, the result of his discoveries is +unfavourable to the supposition of there being a north-west passage, +Mr Hearne's journal was not published till 1795, considerably after +the date of Dr Douglas's writing. Some alterations have consequently +been made on the text and notes of that gentleman.--E.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>The consequences resulting from this extensive discovery, are +obvious. We now see that the continent of North America stretches +from Hudson's Bay so far to the north-west, that Mr Hearne had +travelled near thirteen hundred miles before he arrived at the sea. +His most western distance from the coast of Hudson's Bay was near six +hundred miles; and that his Indian guides were well apprised of a +vast tract of continent stretching farther on in that direction, is +certain from many circumstances mentioned in his journal.</p> + +<p>What is now mentioned with regard to the discoveries made by the +Hudson's Bay Company, was well known to the noble lord who presided +at the Board of Admiralty when this voyage was undertaken; and the +intimate connection of those discoveries with the plan of the voyage, +of course, regulated the instructions given to Captain Cook.</p> + +<p>And now, may we not take it upon us to appeal to every candid and +capable enquirer, whether that part of the instructions which +directed the captain not to lose time, in exploring rivers or inlets, +or upon any other account, till he got into the latitude of 65°, +was not framed judiciously; as there were such indubitable proofs +that no passage existed so far to the south as any part of Hudson's +Bay, and that, if a passage could be effected at all, part of it, at +least, must be traversed by the ships as far to the northward as the +latitude 72°, where Mr Hearne arrived at the sea?</p> + +<p>We may add, as a farther consideration in support of this article +of the instructions, that Beering's Asiatic discoveries, in 1728, +having traced that continent to the latitude of 67°, Captain +Cook's approach toward that latitude was to be wished for, that he +might be enabled to bring back more authentic information than the +world had hitherto obtained, about the relative situation and +vicinity of the two continents, which was absolutely necessary to be +known, before the practicability of sailing between the Pacific and +Atlantic Oceans, in any northern direction, could be ascertained.</p> + +<p>After all, that search, in a lower latitude, which they who give +credit (if any such there now be) to the pretended discoveries of De +Fonte, affect to wish had been recommended to Captain Cook, has (if +that will cure them of their credulity) been satisfactorily made. The +Spaniards, roused from their lethargy by our voyages, and having +caught a spark of enterprise from our repeated visits to the Pacific +Ocean, have followed us more than once into the line of our +discoveries within the southern tropic; and have also fitted out +expeditions to explore the American continent to the north of +California. It is to be lamented, that there should be any reasons +why the transactions of those Spanish voyages have not been fully +disclosed, with the same liberal spirit of information which other +nations have adopted. But, fortunately, this excessive caution of the +court of Spain has been defeated, at least in one instance, by the +publication of an authentic journal of their voyage of discovery upon +the coast of America, in 1775, for which the world is indebted to the +honourable Mr Daines Barrington. This publication, which conveys some +information of real consequence to geography, and has therefore been +referred to more than once in the following work, is particularly +valuable in this respect, that some parts of the coast which Captain +Cook, in his progress northward, was prevented, by unfavourable +winds, from approaching, were seen and examined by the Spanish ships +who preceded him; and the perusal of the following extract from their +journal may be recommended to those (if any such there be) who would +represent it as an imperfection in Captain Cook's voyage, that he had +not an opportunity of examining the coast of America, in the latitude +assigned to the discoveries of Admiral Fonte. "We now attempted to +find out the straits of Admiral Fonte, though, as yet, we had not +discovered the Archipelago of St Lazarus, through which he is said to +have sailed. With this intent, we searched every bay and recess of +the coast, and sailed round every headland, lying-to in the night, +that we might not lose sight of this entrance. After these pains +taken, and being favoured by a north-west wind, it may be pronounced +that no such straits are to be found."[44]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 44: Journal of a voyage in 1775 by Don +Francisco Antonio Maurelle, in Mr Barrington's Miscellanies, p. +508.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>In this journal, the Spaniards boast of "having reached so high a +latitude as 58°, beyond what any other navigators had been able +to effect in those seas."[45] Without diminishing the merit of their +performance, we may be permitted to say, that it will appear very +inconsiderable indeed, in comparison of what Captain Cook effected, +in the voyage of which an account is given in these volumes. Besides +exploring, the land in the South Indian Ocean, of which Kerguelen, in +two voyages, had been able to obtain but a very imperfect knowledge; +adding also many considerable accessions to the geography of the +Friendly Islands; and discovering the noble group, now called +Sandwich Islands, in the northern part of the Pacific Ocean, of which +not the faintest trace can be met with in the account of any former +voyage; besides these preliminary discoveries, the reader of the +following work will find, that in one summer, our English navigator +discovered a much larger proportion of the north-west coast of +America than the Spaniards, though settled in the neighbourhood, had, +in all their attempts, for above two hundred years, been able to do; +that he has put it beyond all doubt that Beering and Tscherikoff had +really discovered the continent of America in 1741, and has also +established the prolongation of that continent westward opposite +Kamschatka, which speculative writers, wedded to favourite systems, +had affected so much to disbelieve, and which, though admitted by +Muller, had, since he wrote, been considered as disproved, by later +Russian discoveries;[46] that, besides ascertaining the true position +of the western coasts of America, with some inconsiderable +interruptions, from latitude 44° up to beyond the latitude +70°, he has also ascertained the position of the northeastern +extremity of Asia, by confirming Beering's discoveries in 1728, and +adding extensive accessions of his own; that he has given us more +authentic information concerning the islands lying between the two +continents, than the Kamtschatka traders, ever since Beering first +taught them to venture on this sea, had been able to procure; that, +by fixing the relative situation of Asia and America, and discovering +the narrow bounds of the strait that divides them, he has thrown a +blaze of light upon this important part of the geography of the +globe, and solved the puzzling problem about the peopling of America, +by tribes destitute of the necessary means to attempt long +navigations; and, lastly, that, though the principal object of the +voyage failed, the world will be greatly benefited even by the +failure, as it has brought us to the knowledge of the existence of +the impediments which future navigators may expect to meet with, in +attempting to go to the East Indies through Beering's strait.[47]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 45: <i>Ibid</i>. p. 507. We learn from +Maurelle's Journal, that another voyage had been some time before +performed upon the coast of America; but the utmost northern progress +of it was to latitude 55°.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 46: See Coxe's Russian Discoveries, p. 26, 27, +etc. The fictions of speculative geographers in the southern +hemisphere, have been continents; in the northern hemisphere, they +have been seas. It may be observed, therefore, that if Captain Cook +in his first voyages annihilated imaginary southern lands, he has +made amends for the havock, in his third voyage, by annihilating +imaginary northern seas, and filling up the vast space which had been +allotted to them, with the solid contents of his new discoveries of +American land farther west and north than had hitherto been +traced.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 47: The Russians seem to owe much to England, +in matters respecting their own possessions. It is singular enough +that one of our countrymen, Dr Campbell, (see his edition of Harris's +voyages, vol. ii. p. 1021) has preserved many valuable particulars of +Beering's first voyage, of which Muller himself, the historian of +their earlier discoveries, makes no mention; that it should be +another of our countrymen, Mr Coxe, who first published a +satisfactory account of their later discoveries; and that the King of +Great Britain's ships should traverse the globe in 1778, to confirm +to the Russian empire the possession of near thirty degrees, or above +six hundred miles, of continent, which Mr Engel, in his zeal for the +practicability of a north-east passage, would prune away from the +length of Asia to the eastward. See his <i>Alanoires +Geographiques</i>, etc. Lausanne 1765; which, however, contains much +real information, and many parts of which are confirmed by Captain +Cook's American discoveries.--D. + +<p>It shews some inconsistency in Captain Krusenstern, that whilst he +speaks of the too successful policy of the commercial nations of +Europe to lull Russia into a state of slumber as to her interests, he +should give us to understand, that the same effect which Captain +Cook's third voyage produced on the speculative and enterprising +spirit of English merchants, had been occasioned among his countrymen +forty years sooner, by the discovery of the Aleutic islands and the +north-west coast of America. But, in fact, it is the highest censure +he could possibly have passed on his own government, to admit, that +it had been subjected to such stupifying treatment. This it certainly +could not have been, without the previous existence of such a +lethargy as materially depreciates the virtue of any opiate employed. +There is no room, however, for the allegation made; and the full +amount of her slumber is justly imputable to the gross darkness which +so long enveloped the horizon of Russia. Whose business was it to +rouse her? What nation could be supposed to possess so much of the +spirit of knight-errantry, as to be induced to instruct her savages +as to the advantages of cultivating commerce, without a cautious +regard to its own particular interests in the first place? But the +bold, though somewhat impolitic seaman, has perhaps stumbled on the +real cause of the slow progress which she has hitherto made in the +course which his sanguine imagination has pointed out for her. +Speaking of her inexhaustible springs and incentives to commerce, he +nevertheless admits, that there are obstacles which render it +difficult for her to become a trading nation. But these obstacles, he +says, do not warrant a doubt of the possibility of removing them. +"Let the monarch only express his pleasure with regard to them, and +<i>the most difficult are already overcome!</i>" The true prosperity +of Russia, it is indubitably certain, will be infinitely more +advanced by fostering her infant commerce, than by any augmentation +of territories which the policy or arms of her sovereign can +accomplish. But he will always require much self-denial to avoid +intermeddling with the concerns of other nations, and to restrict his +labours to the improvement of his own real interests.--E.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>The extended review we have taken of the preceding voyages, and +the general outline we have sketched out, of the transactions of the +last, which are recorded at full length in these volumes, will not, +it is hoped, be considered as a prolix or unnecessary detail. It will +serve to give a just notion of the whole plan of discovery executed +by his majesty's commands. And it appearing that much was aimed at, +and much accomplished, in the unknown parts of the globe, in both +hemispheres, there needs no other consideration, to give full +satisfaction to those who possess an enlarged way of thinking, that a +variety of useful purposes must have been effected by these +researches. But there are others, no doubt, who, too diffident of +their own abilities, or too indolent to exert them, would wish to +have their reflections assisted, by pointing out what those useful +purposes are. For the service of such, the following enumeration of +particulars is entered upon. And if there should be any, who affect +to undervalue the plan or the execution of our voyages, what shall +now be offered, if it do not convince them, may, at least, check the +influence of their unfavourable decision.</p> + +<p>1. It may be fairly considered, as one great advantage accruing to +the world from our late surveys of the globe, that they have confuted +fanciful theories, too likely to give birth to impracticable +undertakings.</p> + +<p>After Captain Cook's persevering and fruitless traverses through +every corner of the southern hemisphere, who, for the future, will +pay any attention to the ingenious reveries of Campbell, de Brosses, +and de Buffon? or hope to establish an intercourse with such a +continent as Manpertuis's fruitful imagination had pictured? A +continent equal, at least, in extent, to all the civilized countries +in the known northern hemisphere, where new men, new animals, new +productions of every kind, might be brought forward to our view, and +discoveries be made, which would open inexhaustible treasures of +commerce?[48] We can now boldly take it upon us to discourage all +expeditions, formed on such reasonings of speculative philosophers, +into a quarter of the globe, where our persevering English navigator, +instead of this promised fairy land, found nothing but barren rocks, +scarcely affording shelter to penguins and seals; and dreary seas, +and mountains of ice, occupying the immense space allotted to +imaginary paradises, and the only treasures there to be discovered, +to reward the toil, and to compensate the dangers, of the unavailing +search.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 48: See Maupertuis's Letter to the King of +Prussia. The author of the Preliminary Discourse to Bougainville's +<i>Voyage aux Isles Malouines</i>, computes that the southern +continent (for the existence of which, he owns, we must depend more +on the conjectures of philosophers, than on the testimony of +voyagers) contains eight or ten millions of square +leagues.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>Or, if we carry our reflections into the northern hemisphere, +could Mr Dobbs have made a single convert, much less could he have +been the successful solicitor of two different expeditions, and have +met with encouragement from the legislature, with regard to his +favourite passage through Hudson's Bay, if Captain Christopher had +previously explored its coasts, and if Mr Hearne had walked over the +immense continent behind it? Whether, after Captain Cook's and +Captain Clerke's discoveries on the west side of America, and their +report of the state of Beering's Strait, there can be sufficient +encouragement to make future attempts to penetrate into the Pacific +Ocean in any northern direction, is a question, for the decision of +which the public will be indebted to this work.</p> + +<p>2. But our voyages will benefit the world, not only by +discouraging future unprofitable searches, but also by lessening the +dangers and distresses formerly experienced in those seas, which are +within the line of commerce and navigation, now actually subsisting. +In how many instances have the mistakes of former navigators, in +fixing the true situations of important places, been rectified? What +accession to the variation chart? How many nautical observations have +been collected, and are now ready to be consulted, in directing a +ship's course, along rocky shores, through narrow straits, amidst +perplexing currents, and dangerous shoals? But, above all, what +numbers of new bays, and harbours, and anchoring-places, are now, for +the first time, brought forward, where ships may be sheltered, and +their crews find tolerable refreshments? To enumerate all these, +would be to transcribe great part of the journals of our several +commanders, whose labours will endear them to every navigator whom +trade or war may carry into their tracks. Every nation that sends a +ship to sea will partake of the benefit; but Great Britain herself, +whose commerce is boundless, must take the lead in reaping the full +advantage of her own discoveries.</p> + +<p>In consequence of all these various improvements, lessening the +apprehensions of engaging in long voyages, may we not reasonably +indulge the pleasing hope, that fresh branches of commerce may, even +in our own time, be attempted, and successfully carried on? Our hardy +adventurers in the whale-fishery have already found their way, within +these few years, into the South Atlantic; and who knows what fresh +sources of commerce may still be opened, if the prospect of gain can +be added, to keep alive the spirit of enterprise? If the situation of +Great Britain be too remote, other trading nations will assuredly +avail themselves of our discoveries. We may soon expect to hear that +the Russians, now instructed by us where to find the American +continent, have extended their voyages from the Fox Islands to Cook's +River, and Prince William's Sound. And if Spain itself should not be +tempted to trade from its most northern Mexican ports, by the fresh +mine of wealth discovered in the furs of King George's Sound, which +they may transport in their Manilla ships, as a favourite commodity +for the Chinese market, that market may probably be supplied by a +direct trade to America, from Canton itself, with those valuable +articles which the inhabitants of China have hitherto received, only +by the tedious and expensive circuit of Kamtschatka and +Kiachta.[49]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 49: It is not unlikely that Captain Krusenstern +was indebted to the hint now given, for his proposal to establish a +direct commercial intercourse with China. The reader who desires +information respecting the nature of the fur trade carried on betwixt +the north-west coast of America, the neighbouring islands, and China, +may consult his introduction. The affairs of Spain, it may be +remarked, long precluded the requisite attention to her commercial +interests, and do not now promise a speedy recovery under her +apparently infatuated government. To Nootka or King George's Sound, +mentioned in the text, that power abandoned all right and +pretensions, in favour of Great Britain, in 1790, after an +altercation, which at one time bid fair to involve the two kingdoms +in war. It was during this dispute, and in view of its hostile +termination, that Mr Pitt gave his sanction to a scheme for +revolutionizing the Spanish colonies, an event which, if not now +encouraged by any direct assistance, bears too complacent an aspect +on our commercial interests not to be regarded with a large portion +of good wishes. It is impossible, indeed, excluding altogether every +idea of personal advantage, not to hope highly, at least, of any +efforts which may be made to wrest the souls and bodies of millions +from the clutch of ignorance and tyranny. The fate of these colonists +is by no means the most unimportant spectacle which the passing drama +of the world exhibits to the eye of an enlightened and humane +politician.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>These, and many other commercial improvements, may reasonably be +expected to result from the British discoveries, even in our own +times. But if we look forward to future ages, and to future changes +in the history of commerce, by recollecting its various past +revolutions and migrations, we may be allowed to please ourselves +with the idea of its finding its way, at last, throughout the extent +of the regions with which our voyages have opened an intercourse; and +there will be abundant reason to subscribe to Captain Cook's +observation with regard to New Zealand, which may be applied to other +tracts of land explored by him, that, "although they be far remote +from the present trading world, we can, by no means, tell what use +future ages may make of the discoveries made by the present.[50] In +this point of view, surely, the utility of the late voyages must +stand confessed; and we may be permitted to say, that the history of +their operations has the justest pretensions to be called [Greek: +chtaema is au], as it will convey to latest posterity a treasure of +interesting information.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 50: Cook's second voyagE.]</blockquote> + +<p>3. Admitting, however, that we may have expressed too sanguine +expectations of commercial advantages, either within our own reach, +or gradually to be unfolded at some future period, as the result of +our voyages of discovery, we may still be allowed, to consider them +as a laudable effort to add to the stock of human knowledge, with +regard to an object which cannot but deserve the attention of +enlightened man. To exert our faculties in devising ingenious modes +of satisfying ourselves about the magnitude and distance of the sun; +to extend our acquaintance with the system, to which that luminary is +the common centre, by tracing the revolutions of a new planet, or the +appearance of a new comet; to carry our bold researches through all +the immensity of space, where world beyond world rises to the view of +the astonished observer; these are employments which none but those +incapable of pursuing them can depreciate, and which every one +capable of pursuing them must delight in, as a dignified exercise of +the powers of the human mind. But while we direct our studies to +distant worlds, which, after all our exertions, we must content +ourselves with having barely discovered to exist, it would be a +strange neglect, indeed, and would argue a most culpable want of +rational curiosity, if we did not use our best endeavours to arrive +at a full acquaintance with the contents of our own planet; of that +little spot in the immense universe, on which we have been placed, +and the utmost limits of which, at least its habitable parts, we +possess the means of ascertaining, and describing, by actual +examination.</p> + +<p>So naturally doth this reflection present itself, that to know +something of the terraqueous globe, is a favourite object with every +one who can taste the lowest rudiments of learning. Let us not, +therefore, think so meanly of the times in which we live, as to +suppose it possible that full justice will not be done to the noble +plan of discovery, so steadily and so successfully carried on, since +the accession of his majesty; which cannot fail to be considered, in +every succeeding age, as a splendid period in the history of our +country, and to add to our national glory, by distinguishing Great +Britain as taking the lead in the most arduous undertakings for the +common benefit of the human race. Before these voyages took place, +nearly half the surface of the globe we inhabit was hid in obscurity +and confusion. What is still wanting to complete our geography may +justly be termed the <i>minutiae</i> of that science.</p> + +<p>4. Let us now carry our thoughts somewhat farther. It is fortunate +for the interests of knowledge, that acquisitions, in any one branch, +generally, and indeed unavoidably, lead to acquisitions in other +branches, perhaps of still greater consequence; and that we cannot +even gratify mere curiosity without being rewarded with valuable +instruction. This observation applies to the subject before us. +Voyages, in which new oceans have been traversed, and in which new +countries have been visited, can scarcely ever be performed without +bringing forward to our view fresh objects of science. Even when we +are to take our report of what was discovered from the mere sailor, +whose knowledge scarcely goes beyond the narrow limits of his own +profession, and whose enquiries are not directed by philosophical +discernment, it will be unfortunate indeed if something hath not been +remarked, by which the scholar may profit, and useful accessions be +made to our old stock of information. And if this be the case in +general, how much more must be gained by the particular voyages now +under consideration? Besides naval officers equally skilled to +examine the coasts they might approach, as to delineate them +accurately upon their charts, artists[51] were engaged, who, by their +drawings, might illustrate what could only be imperfectly described; +mathematicians,[52] who might treasure up an extensive series of +scientific observations; and persons versed in the various +departments of the history of nature, who might collect, or record, +all that they should find new and valuable, throughout the wide +extent of their researches. But while most of these associates of our +naval discoverers were liberally rewarded by the public, there was +one gentleman, who, thinking it the noblest reward he could receive, +to have an opportunity of making the ample fortune he inherited from +his ancestors subservient to the improvement of science, stepped +forward of his own accord, and, submitting to the hardships and +dangers of a circumnavigation of the globe, accompanied Captain Cook +in the Endeavour. The learned world, I may also say the unlearned, +will never forget the obligations which it owes to Sir Joseph +Banks.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 51: Messrs Hodges and Webber, whose drawings +have ornamented and illustrated this and Captain Cook's second +voyage.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 52: Mr Green, in the Endeavour; Messrs Wales +and Bayly, in the Resolution and the Adventure; Mr Bayly, a second +time, jointly with Captains Cook and King in this voyage; and Mr +Lyons, who accompanied Lord Mulgrave.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>What real acquisitions have been gained by this munificent +attention to science, cannot be better expressed than in the words of +Mr Wales, who engaged in one of these voyages himself, and +contributed largely to the benefits derived from them.</p> + +<p>"That branch of natural knowledge which may be called <i>nautical +astronomy</i>, was undoubtedly in its infancy when these voyages were +first undertaken. Both instruments and observers, which deserved the +name, were very rare; and so late as the year 1770, it was thought +necessary, in the appendix to Mayor's Tables, published by the Board +of Longitude, to state facts, in contradiction to the assertions of +so celebrated an astronomer as the Abbé de la Caille, that the +altitude of the sun at noon, the easiest and most simple of all +observations, could not be taken with certainty to a less quantity +than five, six, seven, or even eight minutes.[53] But those who will +give themselves the trouble to look into the astronomical +observations, made in Captain Cook's last voyage, will find, that +there were few, even of the petty officers, who could not observe the +distance of the moon from the sun, or a star, the most delicate of +all observations, with sufficient accuracy. It may be added, that the +method of making and computing observations for finding the variation +of the compass, is better known, and more frequently practised, by +those who have been on these voyages, than by most others. Nor is +there, perhaps, a person who ranks as an officer, and has been +concerned in them, who would not, whatever his real skill may be, +feel ashamed to have it thought that he did not know how to observe +for, and compute the time at sea; though, but a short while before +these voyages were set on foot, such a thing was scarcely ever heard +of amongst seamen; and even first-rate astronomers doubted the +possibility of doing it with sufficient exactness.[54]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 53: The Abbé's words are,--"Si ceux qui +promettent une si grande precision dans ces sortes de methodes, +avoient navigué quelques temps, ils auroient vû souvent, +que dans l'observation la plus simple de toutes, qui est celle de la +hauteur du soleil à midi, deux observations, munis de bons +quartiers de reflexion, bien rectifiés, different entr'eux, +lorsqu'ils observent chacun à part, de 5', 6', 7', & +8'."--<i>Ephémer</i>. 1755--1765. <i>Introduction</i>, p. 32. + +<p>It must be, however, mentioned, in justice to M. de la Caille, +that he attempted to introduce the lunar method of discovering the +longitude, and proposed a plan of calculations of the moon's distance +from the sun and fixed stars; but, through the imperfection of his +instruments, his success was much less than that method was capable +of affording. The bringing it into general use was reserved for Dr +Maskelyne, our Astronomer Royal. See the preface to the Tables for +correcting the Effects of Refraction and Parallax, published by the +Board of Longitude, under the direction of Dr Shepherd, Flumian +Professor of Astronomy and Experimental Philosophy at Cambridge, in +1772.--D.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 54: In addition, to Mr Wales's remark, it may +be observed, that the proficiency of our naval officers in taking +observations at sea, must ultimately be attributed to the great +attention paid to this important object by the Board of Longitude at +home; liberal rewards having been given to mathematicians for +perfecting the lunar tables, and facilitating calculations, and to +artists for constructing more accurate instruments for observing, and +watches better adapted to keeping time at sea. It appears, therefore, +that the voyages of discovery, and the operations of the Board of +Longitude, went hand in hand; and they must be combined, in order to +form a just estimate of the extent of the plan carried into execution +since his majesty's accession, for improving astronomy and +navigation. But, besides the establishment of the Board of Longitude +on its present footing, which has had such important consequences, it +must also be ever acknowledged, that his present majesty has extended +his royal patronage to every branch of the liberal arts and useful +science. The munificent present to the Royal Society for defraying +the expence of observing the <i>transit</i> of Venus; the institution +of the Academy of Painting and Sculpture; the magnificent apartments +allotted to the Royal and Antiquarian Societies, and to the Royal +Academy at Somerset-Place; the support of the Garden of Exotics at +Kew, to improve which Mr Masson was sent to the extremities of +Africa; the substantial encouragement afforded to learned men and +learned works in various departments, and particularly that afforded +to Mr Herschel, which has enabled him to devote himself entirely to +the improvement of astronomy;--these, and many other instances which +might be enumerated, would have greatly distinguished his majesty's +reign, even if he had not been the patron of those successful +attempts to perfect geography and navigation by so many voyages of +discovery.--D. + +<p>It is scarcely necessary to add to this note by saying, that the +period which has elapsed since the first publication of this voyage, +has not witnessed any failure of the promises held out by the +previous state of science, notwithstanding the calamities and +embarrassments attendant on the revolutionary frenzy that, in some +degree, infected every country in Europe. Science, indeed, has +peculiarly prospered amid the miseries of the world. In pity of the +destructive work, in which man's bad passions had been engaged with +such industrious ferocity, she has held out in one hand a remedy for +the evil, and pointed with the other to the blessings of peace. Is it +unreasonable to hope, that the precious seed sown in such tumultuous +times as we have witnessed, and are now witnessing, will ere long +yield a rich harvest to reward the industry of her labourers? But +let, us not limit our expectations and toils to the completion of +mere <i>minutiae</i>, as Dr Douglas speaks. The opinion of plenty, +says Lord Bacon, is one of the causes of want. A more unfavourable +symptom of our condition could hardly be found, than a belief that we +had reached perfection. Let us rather think that greater progress may +yet be made in beneficial arts and sciences than ever was made +hitherto, and be therefore stimulated to more ambitious exertions. It +will be no glory to the next generation that we have gone so far, if +they themselves are not invited and enabled by our success to get +beyond us.--E.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>"The number of places at which the rise and times of flowing of +tides have been observed, in these voyages, is very great, and hence +an important article of useful knowledge is afforded. In these +observations, some very curious, and even unexpected, circumstances, +have offered themselves to our consideration. It will be sufficient +to instance the exceedingly small height to which the tide rises in +the middle of the great Pacific Ocean, where it falls short, +two-thirds at least, of what might have been expected from theory and +calculation.</p> + +<p>"The direction and force of currents at sea, make also an +important object. These voyages will be found to contain much useful +information on this head, as well relating to seas nearer home, and +which, in consequence, are navigated every day, as to those which are +more remote, but where, notwithstanding, the knowledge of these +things may be of great service to those who are destined to navigate +them hereafter. To this head also we may refer the great number of +experiments which have been made for enquiring into the depth of the +sea, its temperature, and saltness at different depths, and in a +variety of places and climates.</p> + +<p>"An extensive foundation has also been laid for improvements in +magnetism, for discovering the cause and nature of the polarity of +the needle, and a theory of its variations, by the number and variety +of the observations and experiments which have been made, both on the +variation and dip, in almost all parts of the world. Experiments also +have been made, in consequence of the late voyages, on the effects of +gravity in different and very distant places, which may serve to +increase our stock of natural knowledge. From the same source of +information we have learned, that the phenomenon, usually called the +<i>aurora borealis</i>, is not peculiar to high northern latitudes, +but belongs equally to all cold climates, whether they be north or +south.</p> + +<p>"But, perhaps, no part of knowledge has been so great a gainer by +the late voyages as that of botany. We are told,[55] that at least +twelve hundred new plants have been added to the known system; and +that very considerable additions have been made to every other branch +of natural history, by the great skill and industry of Sir Joseph +Banks, and the other gentlemen who have accompanied Captain Cook for +that purpose."</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 55: See Dr Shepherd's Preface, as +abovE.]</blockquote> + +<p>To our naval officers in general, or to their learned associates +in the expeditions, all the foregoing improvements of knowledge may +be traced; but there is one very singular improvement indeed, still +behind, for which, as we are solely indebted to Captain Cook, let us +state it in his own words: "Whatever may be the public judgment about +other matters, it is with real satisfaction, and without claiming any +merit but that of attention to my duty, that I can conclude this +account with an observation, which facts enable me to make, that our +having discovered the possibility of preserving health amongst a +numerous ship's company for such a length of time, in such varieties +of climate, and amidst such continued hardships and fatigues, will +make this voyage remarkable in the opinion of every benevolent +person, when the disputes about a southern continent shall have +ceased to engage the attention and to divide the judgment of +philosophers."[56]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 56: 34: Cook's second voyagE.]</blockquote> + +<p>5. But while our late voyages have opened so many channels to an +increase of knowledge in the several articles already enumerated; +while they have extended our acquaintance with the contents of the +globe; while they have facilitated old tracks, and opened new ones +for commerce; while they have been the means of improving the skill +of the navigator, and the science of the astronomer; while they have +procured to us so valuable accessions in the several departments of +natural history, and furnished such opportunities of teaching us how +to preserve the healths and lives of seamen, let us not forget +another very important object of study, for which they have afforded +to the speculative philosopher ample materials; I mean the study of +human nature in various situations, equally interesting as they are +uncommon.</p> + +<p>However remote or secluded from frequent intercourse with more +polished nations the inhabitants of any parts of the world be, if +history or our own observation should make it evident that they have +been formerly visited, and that foreign manners and opinions, and +languages, have been blended with their own, little use can be made +of what is observed amongst such people toward drawing a real picture +of man in his natural uncultivated state. This seems to be the +situation of the inhabitants of most of the islands that lie +contiguous to the continent of Asia, and of whose manners and +institutions the Europeans, who occasionally visit them, have +frequently given us accounts. But the islands which our enterprising +discoverers visited in the centre of the South Pacific Ocean, and are +indeed the principal scenes of their operations, were untrodden +ground. The inhabitants, as far as could be observed, were unmixed +with any different tribe, by occasional intercourse, subsequent to +their original settlement there; left entirely to their own powers +for every art of life, and to their own remote traditions for every +political or religions custom or institution; uninformed by science; +unimproved by education; in short, a fit soil from whence a careful +observer could collect facts for forming a judgment, how far +unassisted human nature will be apt to degenerate, and in what +respects it can ever be able to excel. Who could have thought, that +the brutal ferocity of feeding upon human flesh, and the horrid +superstition of offering human sacrifices, should be found to exist +amongst the natives lately discovered in the Pacific Ocean, who, in +other respects, appear to be no strangers to the fine feelings of +humanity, to have arrived at a certain stage of social life, and to +be habituated to subordination and government, which tend so +naturally to repress the ebullitions of wild passion, and expand the +latent powers of the understanding?</p> + +<p>Or, if we turn from this melancholy picture, which will suggest +copious matter for philosophical speculation, can we, without +astonishment, observe to what a degree of perfection the same tribe +(and indeed we may here join, in some of those instances, the +American tribes visited in the course of the present voyage) have +carried their favourite amusements, the plaintive songs of their +women, their dramatic entertainments, their dances, their olympian +games, as we may call them, the orations of their chiefs, the chants +of their priests, the solemnity of their religious processions, their +arts and manufactures, their ingenious contrivances to supply the +want of proper materials, and of effective tools and machines, and +the wonderful productions of their persevering labour under a +complication of disadvantages, their cloth and their mats, their +weapons, their fishing instruments, their ornaments, their utensils, +which in design and in execution may vie with whatever modern Europe +or classical antiquity can exhibit?</p> + +<p>It is a favourite study with the scholar to trace the remains of +Grecian or Roman workmanship; he turns over his Montfaucon with +learned satisfaction; and he gazes with rapture on the noble +collection of Sir William Hamilton. The amusement is rational and +instructive. But will not his curiosity be more awakened, will he not +find even more real matter for important reflection, by passing an +hour in surveying the numerous specimens of the ingenuity of our +newly-discovered friends, brought from the utmost recesses of the +globe to enrich the British Museum, and the valuable repository of +Sir Ashton Lever? If the curiosities of Sir Ashton's Sandwich-room +alone were the only acquisition gained by our visits to the Pacific +Ocean, who, that has taste to admire, or even eyes to behold, could +hesitate to pronounce that Captain Cook had not sailed in vain? The +expence of his three voyages did not, perhaps, far exceed that of +digging out the buried contents of Herculaneum. And we may add, that +the novelties of the Society or Sandwich Islands seem better +calculated to engage the attention of the studious in our times, than +the antiquities which exhibit proofs of Roman magnificence.</p> + +<p>The grounds for making this remark cannot be better explained, +than in the words of a very ingenious writer: " In an age," says Mr +Warton,[57] "advanced to the highest degree of refinement, that +species of curiosity commences, which is busied in contemplating the +progress of social life, in displaying the gradation of science, and +in tracing the transition from barbarism to civility. That these +speculations should become the favourite topics of such a period, is +extremely natural. We look back on the savage condition of our +ancestors with the triumph of superiority; and are pleased to mark +the steps by which we have been raised from rudeness to elegance; and +our reflections on this subject are accompanied with a conscious +pride, arising, in a great measure, from a tacit comparison of the +infinite disproportion between the feeble efforts of remote ages, and +our present improvements in knowledge. In the mean time, the manners, +monuments, customs, practices, and opinions of antiquity, by forming +so strong a contrast with those of our own times, and by exhibiting +human nature and human inventions in new lights, in unexpected +appearances, and in various forms, are objects which forcibly strike +a feeling imagination. Nor does this spectacle afford nothing more +than a fruitless gratification to the fancy. It teaches us to set a +just estimation on our own acquisitions, and encourages us to cherish +that cultivation, which is so closely connected with the existence +and the exercise of every social virtue." We need not here observe, +that the manners, monuments, customs, practices, and opinions of the +present inhabitants of the Pacific Ocean, or of the west side of +North America, form the strongest contrast with those of our own time +in polished Europe; and that a feeling imagination will probably be +more struck with the narration of the ceremonies of a <i>Natche</i> +at Tongataboo, than of a Gothic tournament at London; with the +contemplation of the colossuses of Easter Island, than of the +mysterious remains of Stonehenge.[58]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 57: Preface to his History of English +Poetry.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 58: This may be disputed, both in point of +fact, and on principles of reasoning. As to the first, the fact, let +readers in general enquire as to the comparative degree and frequency +of attention bestowed on the different kinds of topics alluded to by +the doctor. What is the conclusion from their observations on the +subject? The writer for one, does not hesitate to assert, that he is +convinced, the evidence bears against the opinion of the learned +editor. So far as his notice extends, it appears, that the fooleries +of a superstitious age, the lies of legendary fabulists, the +incomprehensible relics of long-forgotten delusions, really obtain +more regard as objects of curiosity, than whatever of ingenuity or +labour is to be found in the history of presently existing savages. +Then again as to the reasons for such a preference. Is there not a +sort of fashionable taste for the productions of antiquity, the want +of which is quite unpardonable in our polished and literary circles? +Does not the attainment of this taste, in any meritorious degree, by +necessarily requiring much study, operate as preclusive of +information to the possession of which no peculiar epithet of a +commendatory nature has hitherto been awarded? Nay, is there not a +sort of prejudice allied to a notion of vulgarity, directed against +almost any shew of acquaintance with the habits and histories of +uncultivated nations? But it would be unpardonable to imagine, there +were not other reasons of a less invidious nature to explain the +fact. We must certainly be allowed to pay higher respect to the +particular concerns of those people with whom we stand in the light +of offspring or relatives, or whose transactions and fates have +rendered the history of the world what it is, almost superlatively +important to every intelligent mind. If time shall witness the +triumph of civilization over the savages of the southern hemisphere, +then, it is highly probable, a similar enthusiasm will prevail among +their literary descendants; and objects regarded by us as mere dust +in the high road of nature, will be enshrined with all the partiality +and fondness of national idolatry.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Many singularities, respecting what may be called the natural +history of the human species, in different climates, will, on the +authority of our late navigators, open abundant sources for +philosophical discussion. One question of this sort, in particular, +which had formerly divided the opinions of the inquisitive, as to the +existence, if not of "giants on the earth," at least of a race, +(inhabiting a district bordering on the north side of the strait of +Magalhaens,) whose stature considerably exceeds that of the bulk of +mankind, will no longer be doubted or disbelieved. And the ingenious +objections of the sceptical author of <i>Recherches sur les +Americains</i>,[59] will weigh nothing in the balance against the +concurrent and accurate testimony of Byron, Wallis, and Carteret.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 59: Tom. i. p. 331.]</blockquote> + +<p>Perhaps there cannot be a more interesting enquiry than to trace +the migrations of the various families or tribes that have peopled +the globe; and in no respect have our late voyages been more fertile +in curious discoveries. It was known in general, (and I shall use the +words of Kaempfer,[60]) that the Asiatic nation called Malayans "in +former times, had by much the greatest trade in the Indies, and +frequented with their merchant ships, not only all the coasts of +Asia, but ventured even over to the coasts of Africa, particularly to +the great island of Madagascar.[61] The title which the king of the +Malayans assumed to himself, of <i>Lord of the Winds and Seas to the +East and to the West</i>, is an evident proof of this; but much more +the Malayan language, which spread most all over the East, much after +the same manner as formerly the Latin, and of late the French, did +all over Europe." Thus far, I say, was known. But that from +Madagascar to the Marqueses and Easter Island, that is, nearly from +the east side of Africa, till we approach toward the west side of +America, a space including above half the circumference of the globe, +the same tribe or nation, the Phoenicians, as we may call them, of +the oriental world, should have made their settlements, and founded +colonies throughout almost every intermediate stage of this immense +tract, in islands at amazing distances from the mother continent, and +ignorant of each other's existence; this is an historical fact, which +could be but very imperfectly known before Captain Cook's two first +voyages discovered so many new-inhabited spots of land lurking in the +bosom of the South Pacific Ocean; and it is a fact which does not +rest solely on similarity of customs and institutions, but has been +established by the most satisfactory of all proofs, that drawn from +affinity of language. Mr Marsden, who seems to have considered this +curious subject with much attention, says, "that the links of the +latitudinal chain remain yet to be traced."[40] The discovery of the +Sandwich Islands in this last voyage, has added some links to the +chain. But Captain Cook had not an opportunity of carrying his +researches into the more westerly parts of the North Pacific. The +reader, therefore, of the following work will not, perhaps, think +that the editor was idly employed when he subjoined some notes, which +contain abundant proof that the inhabitants of the Ladrones, or +Marianne islands, and those of the Carolines, are to be traced to the +same common source, with those of the islands visited by our ships. +With the like view of exhibiting a striking picture of the amazing +extent of this oriental language, which marks, if not a common +original, at least an intimate intercourse between the inhabitants of +places so very remote from each other, he has inserted a comparative +table of their numerals, upon a more enlarged plan than any that has +hitherto been executed.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 60: History of Japan, vol. i. p. +93.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 61: That the Malayans have not only frequented +Madagascar, but have also been the progenitors of some of the present +race of inhabitants there, is confirmed to us by the testimony of +Monsieur de Pagès, who visited that island so late as 1774. +"Ils m'ont paru provenir des diverses races; leur couleur leur +cheveux, et leur corps l'indiquent. Ceux que je n'ai pas cru +originaires des anciens naturels du pays, sont petits et trapus; ils +ont les cheveux presque unis, et sont <i>olivátres comme les +Malayes, avec qui ils ont, en général, une espece de +resemblance</i>."--<i>Voyages des M. des Pagès</i>, tom. ii. +p. 90.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 40: Archaeolog. vol. vi. p. 155. See also his +History of Sumatra, p. 166, from which the following passage is +transcribed:-- "Besides the Malaye, there are a variety of languages +spoken in Sumatra, which, however, have not only a manifest affinity +among themselves, but also to that general language which is found to +prevail in, and to be indigenous to, all the islands of the eastern +seas; from Madagascar to the remotest of Captain Cook's discoveries, +comprehending a wider extent than the Roman or any other tongue has +yet boasted. In different places, it has been more or less mixed and +corrupted; but between the most dissimilar branches, an eminent +sameness of many radical words is apparent; and in some very distant +from each other, in point of situation: As, for instance, the +Philippines and Madagascar, the deviation of the words is scarcely +more than is observed in the dialects of neighbouring provinces of +the same kingdom."--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>Our British discoverers have not only thrown a blaze of light on +the migrations of the tribe which has so wonderfully spread itself +throughout the islands in the eastern ocean, but they have also +favoured us with much curious information concerning another of the +families of the earth, whose lot has fallen in less hospitable +climates. We speak of the Esquimaux, hitherto only found seated on +the coasts of Labradore and Hudson's Bay, and who differ in several +characteristic marks from the inland inhabitants of North America. +That the Greenlanders and they agree in every circumstance of +customs, and manners, and language, which are demonstrations of an +original identity of nation, had been discovered about twenty years +ago.[62] Mr Hearne, in 1771, traced this unhappy race farther back, +toward that part of the globe from whence they had originally coasted +along in their skin boats, having met with some of them at the mouth +of the Copper-mine River, in the latitude of 72°, and near five +hundred leagues farther west than Pickersgill's most westerly station +in Davis's Strait. Their being the same tribe who now actually +inhabit the islands and coasts on the west side of North America, +opposite Kamtschatka, was a discovery, the completion of which was +reserved for Captain Cook. The reader of the following work will find +them at Norton Sound, and at Oonalashka and Prince William's Sound; +that is, near 1500 leagues distant from their stations in Greenland +and on the Labradore coast. And lest similitude of manners should be +thought to deceive us, a table exhibiting proofs of affinity of +language, which was drawn up by Captain Cook, and is inserted in this +work, will remove every doubt from the mind of the most scrupulous +enquirer after truth.[63]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 62: See Crantz's History of Greenland, vol. i. +p. 262; where we are told that the Moravian brethren, who, with the +consent and furtherance of Sir Hugh Palliser, then governor of +Newfoundland, visited the Esquimaux on the Labradore coast, found +that their language, and that of the Greenlanders, do not differ so +much as that of the High and Low Dutch.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 63: The Greenlanders, as Crantz tells us, call +themselves <i>Karalit</i>; a word not very unlike <i>Kanagyst</i>, +the name assumed by the inhabitants of Kodiack, one of the Schumagin +islands, as Staehlin informs us.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>There are other doubts of a more important kind, which, it may be +hoped, will now no longer perplex the ignorant, or furnish matter of +cavil to the ill-intentioned. After the great discovery, or at least +the full confirmation of the great discovery, of the vicinity of the +two continents of Asia and America, we trust that we shall not, for +the future, be ridiculed, for believing that the former could easily +furnish its inhabitants to the latter. And thus, to all the various +good purposes already enumerated, as answered by our late voyages, we +may add this last, though not the least important, that they have +done service to religion, by robbing infidelity of a favourite +objection to the credibility of the Mosaic account of the peopling of +the earth.[64]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 64: A contempt of revelation is generally the +result of ignorance, conceited of its possessing superior knowledge. +Observe how the author of <i>Recherches Philosophiques sur les +Americains</i>, expresses himself on this very point. "Cette distance +que Mr Antermony veut trouver si peu impotante, est +à-peu-près <i>de huit cent lieus Gauleises au travers +d'un ocean perilleux</i>, et impossible à franchir avec des +canots aussi chetifs et aussi fragiles que le sont, au rapport +d'Ysbrand Ides, les chaloupes des Tunguses," etc. etc. t. i. p. 156. +Had this writer known that the two continents are not above thirteen +leagues (instead of eight hundred) distant from each other, and that, +even in that narrow space of sea, there are intervening islands, he +would not have ventured to urge this argument in opposition to Mr +Bell's notion of the quarter from which North America received its +original inhabitants.--D. + +<p>No intelligent reader needs to be informed, that a much closer +approach of the two continents of Asia and America than is here +alleged to exist, would be inadequate to account for the peopling of +the latter, throughout its immense extent and very important +diversities of appearance. The opinion is more plausible, and gains +ground in the world, that much of South America derived its original +inhabitants from the opposite coast of Africa. It is enough to state +this opinion, without occupying a moment's attention, in discussing +the arguments which can be adduced in its support. The truth of +Revelation, it may be remarked, is quite unaffected by the +controversy, and, in fact, can receive neither injury nor advantage +from any decision that is given to it. The real friends of that cause +attach little importance to any weight of human argument in its +favour, and rest entirely on divine evidence, for both the painful +and the comfortable effects it produces on their consciences. Any +other, they are sure, may indeed furnish matter for the display of +ingenuity and learning, but will fall short of that conviction which +secures self-denied obedience to its precepts.--E.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>6. Hitherto we have considered our voyages as having benefited the +<i>discoverers</i>. But it will be asked, Have they conveyed, or are +they likely ever to convey, any benefit to the <i>discovered</i>? It +would afford exquisite satisfaction to every benevolent mind, to be +instructed in facts, which might enable us, without hesitation, to +answer this question in the affirmative. And yet, perhaps, we may +indulge the pleasing hope, that, even in this respect, our ships have +not sailed in vain. Other discoveries of new countries have, in +effect, been wars, or rather massacres; nations have been no sooner +found out, than they have been extirpated; and the horrid cruelties +of the conquerors of Mexico and Peru can never be remembered, without +blushing for religion and human nature. But when the recesses of the +globe are investigated, not to enlarge private dominion, but to +promote general knowledge; when we visit new tribes of our +fellow-creatures as friends; and wish only to learn that they exist, +in order to bring them within the pale of the offices of humanity, +and to relieve the wants of their imperfect state of society, by +communicating to them our superior attainments; voyages of discovery +planned with such benevolent views by George the Third, and executed +by Cook, have not, we trust, totally failed in this respect. Our +repeated visits, and long-continued intercourse with the natives of +the Friendly, Society, and Sandwich Islands, cannot but have darted +some rays of light on the infant minds of those poor people. The +uncommon objects they have thus had opportunities of observing and +admiring, will naturally tend to enlarge their stock of ideas, and to +furnish new materials for the exercise of their reason. Comparing +themselves with their visitors, they cannot but be struck with the +deepest conviction of their own inferiority, and be impelled, by the +strongest motives, to strive to emerge from it, and to rise nearer to +a level with those children of the Sun, who deigned to look upon +them, and left behind so many specimens of their generous and humane +attention. The very introduction of our useful animals and +vegetables, by adding fresh means of subsistence, will have added to +their comforts of life, and immediate enjoyments; and if this be the +only benefit they are ever to receive, who will pronounce that much +has not been gained? But may we not carry our wishes and our hopes +still farther? Great Britain itself, when, first visited by the +Phoenicians, was inhabited by painted savages, not, perhaps, blessed +with higher attainments than are possessed by the present natives of +New Zealand; certainly less civilized than those of Tongataboo or +Otaheite. Our having opened an intercourse with them, is the first +step toward their improvement. Who knows, but that our late voyages +may be the means appointed by Providence, of spreading, in due time, +the blessings of civilization amongst the numerous tribes of the +South Pacific Ocean; of abolishing their horrid repasts and their +horrid rites; and of laying the foundation for future and more +effectual plans, to prepare them for holding an honourable station +amongst the nations of the earth? This, at least, is certain, that +our having, as it were, brought them into existence by our extensive +researches, will suggest to us fresh motives of devout gratitude to +the Supreme Being, for having blessed us with advantages hitherto +withheld from so great a proportion of the human race; and will +operate powerfully to incite us to persevere in every feasible +attempt, to be his instruments in rescuing millions of +fellow-creatures from their present state of humiliation.[65]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 65: It is painful to a liberal mind to question +the basis of any hope, or to doubt the validity of any expectations, +in behalf of our species. One would rather foster a mistaken +benevolence, which, scorning selfish interests, embraced the future +welfare of distant and unknown people, were it not that the +indulgence of them might tend to prevent the very object which they +regard from being attained. Does not the well-meaning editor +anticipate too much from the diffusion of foreign knowledge among the +tribes of whom he speaks? Is he not somewhat inattentive to the mass +of inseparable evil which every such accession brings along with it? +Does he not seem to confound together the acquisition of knowledge, +and the ability to do what is requisite for human happiness? May we +not perceive by the very items of his calculation, that he has +neglected to consider that nice adjustment of the faculty and the +means of enjoyment, which evinces the general care and universal +affection of Providence? The consequence of such neglect or mistake, +would be an injudicious and hasty effort to induce what we call +civilization, on the too much commiserated objects of our +philanthropy. Without disputing for a moment, that the intercourse +with Europeans has proved beneficial to these people, though, as +every intelligent reader knows well, a thousand arguments would be +thrown away on an attempt to shew there was no occasion to do so, we +may fairly enough affirm, that such zealous exertions as are here +virtually recommended, are liable to the charge of being premature, +and not altogether according to knowledge. We are too apt to imagine +that barbarous people are easily made to believe their institutions +and manners are erroneous, or impolitic; and that they will +accordingly readily listen to the suggestions of those who, they +acknowledge, are in many respects superior to themselves. But, in +fact, the very reverse is the case, and it will ever be found that +the simplest states of society are least sensible of inconveniences, +and therefore most averse to innovation. Besides, it ought to be +remembered, that, independent of any adventitious assistance, there +is implanted in every such society, how contemptible soever it may +seem to others, a certain principle of amelioration, which never +fails, in due time, to yield its fruit, and which, there is some +reason to apprehend, may receive detriment from obtrusive solicitude +to hasten its product. Every boy has within him the seeds of manhood, +which, at the period appointed by nature, germinate, blossom, and +fructify; but anxiety to accelerate the process too often ruins the +soil on which they grow, and mars the hopes of the cultivator, by +unseasonable maturity and rapid decay. So is it with societies. The +progress of human affairs on the large scale, is precisely similar to +what we daily witness on the small. It has been described, with equal +beauty and correctness, by the judicious Ferguson, in his Essays on +the History of Civil Society. "What was in one generation," says he, +"a propensity to herd with the species, becomes, in the ages which +follow, a principle of natural union. What was originally an alliance +for common defence, becomes a concerted plan of political force; the +care of subsistence becomes an anxiety for accumulating wealth, and +the foundation of commercial arts."--Who can say that the +officiousness of friendship is not likely to disorder the series, +and, though it escape the charge and the fate of presumption, is not +deserving to be considered as unnecessary +enthusiasm?--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The several topics which occurred, as suitable to this general +Introduction, being now discussed, nothing remains but to state a few +particulars, about which the reader of these volumes has a right to +expect some information.</p> + +<p>Captain Cook, knowing, before he sailed upon this last expedition, +that it was expected from him to relate, as well as to execute, its +operations, had taken care to prepare such a journal as might be made +use of for publication. This journal, which exists in his own +hand-writing, has been faithfully adhered to. It is not a bare +extract from his logbooks, but contains many remarks which, it +appears, had not been inserted by him in the nautical register; and +it is also enriched with considerable communications from Mr +Anderson, surgeon of the Resolution. The confessed abilities, and +great assiduity, of Mr Anderson, in observing every thing that +related either to natural history, or to manners and language, and +the desire which, it is well known, Captain Cook, on all occasions, +shewed to have the assistance of that gentleman, stamped a great +value on his collections. That nothing, therefore, might be wanting +to convey to the public the best possible account of the transactions +of the voyage, his journal, by the order of Lord Sandwich, was also +put into the hands of the editor, who was authorised and directed to +avail himself of the information it might be found to contain, about +matters imperfectly touched, or altogether omitted, in Captain Cook's +manuscript. This task has been executed in such a manner, that the +reader will scarcely ever be at a loss to distinguish in what +instances recourse has been had to Mr Anderson. To preclude, if +possible, any mistake, the copy of the first and second volumes, +before it went to the printer, was submitted to Captain King; and +after it had been read over and corrected by one so well qualified to +point out any inaccuracies, the Earl of Sandwich had the goodness to +give it a perusal. As to the third volume, nothing more need be said, +than that it was completely prepared for the press by Captain King +himself. All that the editor of the work has to answer for, are the +notes occasionally introduced in the course of the two volumes +contributed by Captain Cook; and this Introduction, which was +intended as a kind of epilogue to our Voyages of Discovery. He must +be permitted, however, to say, that he considers himself as entitled +to no inconsiderable share of candid indulgence from the public; +having engaged in a very tedious and troublesome undertaking upon the +most disinterested motives; his only reward being the satisfaction he +feels, in having been able to do an essential service to the family +of our great navigator, who had honoured him, in the journal of this +voyage, with the appellation of friend.</p> + +<p>They who repeatedly asked why this publication was so long +delayed, needed only to look at the volumes, and their attendant +illustrations and ornaments, to be satisfied that it might, with at +least equal reason, be wondered at, that it was not delayed longer. +The journal of Captain Cook, from the first moment that it came into +the hands of the editor, had been ready for the press; and Captain +King had left with him his part of the narrative, so long ago as his +departure for the West Indies, when he commanded the Resistance +man-of-war. But much, besides, remained to be done. The charts, +particularly the general one, were to be prepared by Mr Roberts; the +very numerous and elegant drawings of Mr Webber were to be reduced by +him to the proper size; artists were next to be found out who would +undertake to engrave them; the prior engagements of those artists +were to be fulfilled before they could begin; the labour and skill to +be exerted in finishing many of them, rendered this a tedious +operation; paper fit for printing them upon was to be procured from +abroad; and after all these various and unavoidable difficulties were +surmounted, much time was necessarily required for executing a +numerous impression of the long list of plates, with so much care as +might do justice both to Mr Webber, and to his several engravers.</p> + +<p>And here it seems to be incumbent upon us to add, as another +instance of munificent attention, that care was taken to mark, in the +most significant manner, the just sense entertained of the human and +liberal relief afforded to our ships in Kamtachatka. Colonel Behm, +the commandant of that province, was not rewarded merely by the +pleasure which a benevolent mind feels in reflecting upon the +blessings it confers, but also thanked in a manner equally consistent +with the dignity of his own sovereign and of ours, to whose subjects +he extended protection. A magnificent piece of plate was presented to +him, with an inscription, worthy of a place in the same book where +the history of his humanity to our countrymen is recorded, and which, +while it does honour to our national gratitude, deserves also to be +preserved as a monument of our national taste for elegant +composition. It is as follows:</p> + +<pre> + VIRO EGREGIO MAGNO DE BEHM; qui, Imperatricis Augustissimae + Catherinae auspiciis, summâque animi benignitate, saeva, quibus + praeerat, Kamtschatkae littora, navibus nautisque Britannicis, + hospita praebuit; eosque, in terminis, si qui essent Imperio + Russico, frustrà explorandis, mula multa perpessos, iteratâ vice + excepit, refecit, recreavit, et commeatu omni cumulatè auctos + dimisit; REI NAVALIS BRITANNICAE SEPTEMVIRI in aliquam + benevolentiae tam insignis memoriam, amicissimo, gratissimoque + animo, suo, patriaeque nomine, D.D.D. MDCCLXXXI. +</pre> + +<p>This testimony of public gratitude, reminds the editor that there +are similar calls upon himself. He owes much to Captain King for his +advice and direction, in a variety of instances, where Captain Cook's +journal required explanation; for filling up several blanks with the +proper longitude and latitude; and for supplying deficiencies in the +tables of astronomical observations.</p> + +<p>Lieutenant Roberts was also frequently consulted, and was always +found to be a ready and effectual assistant, when any nautical +difficulties were to be cleared up.</p> + +<p>But particular obligations are due to Mr Wales, who, besides his +valuable communications for this Introduction, seconded most +liberally the editor's views of serving Mrs Cook, by cheerfully +taking upon himself the whole trouble of digesting, from the +log-books, the tables of the route of the ships, which add so greatly +to the utility of this publication.</p> + +<p>Mr Wegg, besides sharing in the thanks so justly due to the +committee of the Hudson's Bay Company, for their unreserved +communications, was particularly obliging to the editor, by giving +him repeated opportunities of conversing with Governor Hearne and +Captain Christopher.</p> + +<p>The Honourable Mr Daines Barrington had the goodness to interest +himself, with his usual zeal for every work of public utility, in +procuring some necessary information, and suggesting some valuable +hints, which were adopted.</p> + +<p>It would be great injustice not to express acknowledgements to Mr +Pennant, who, besides enriching the third volume with references to +his <i>Arctic Zoology</i>, the publication of which is an important +accession to natural history, also communicated some very authentic +and satisfactory manuscript accounts of the Russian discoveries.</p> + +<p>The vocabularies of the Friendly and Sandwich Islands, and of the +natives of Nootka, had been furnished to Captain Cook, by his most +useful associate in the voyage, Mr Anderson; and a fourth, in which +the language of the Esquimaux is compared with that of the Americans +on the opposite side of the continent, had been prepared by the +captain himself. But the comparative Table of Numerals was very +obligingly drawn up, at the request of the editor, by Mr Bryant, who, +in his study, followed Captain Cook, and, indeed, every traveller and +historian, of every age, into every part of the globe. The public +will consider this table as a very striking illustration of the +wonderful migrations of a nation, about whom so much additional +information has been gained by our voyages, and be ready to +acknowledge it as a very useful communication.</p> + +<p>One more communication remains to be not only acknowledged, but to +be inserted at the close of this Introduction. The testimonies of +learned contemporaries, in commendation of a deceased author, are +frequently displayed in the front of his book. It is with the +greatest propriety, therefore, that we prefix to this posthumous work +of Captain Cook, the testimony of one of his own profession, not more +distinguished by the elevation of rank, than by the dignity of +private virtues. As he wishes to remain concealed, perhaps this +allusion, for which we entreat his indulgence, may have given too +exact direction to the eyes of the public where to look for such a +character.[66] Let us, however, rest satisfied with the intrinsic +merit of a composition, conveyed under the injunction of secrecy; and +conclude our long preliminary dissertation with expressing a wish, or +rather a well-grounded hope, that this volume may not be the only +place where posterity can meet with a monumental inscription, +commemorative of a man, in recounting and applauding whose services, +the whole of enlightened Europe will equally concur with Great +Britain.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 66: This is understood to be spoken of the +Honourable Admiral Forbes, Admiral of the Fleet, and General of the +Marines, to whom, on the authority of Sir Hugh Palliser, the eulogium +is ascribed in the Biog. Brit. He is said to have known Cook only by +his eminent merit and extraordinary actions. The testimony, +therefore, is the more to be prized, as it cannot be charged with the +partiality of friendship.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>TO THE MEMORY OF</p> + +<p>CAPTAIN JAMES COOK,</p> + +<p><i>The ablest and most renowned Navigator this or any other +country hath produced</i>.</p> + +<p>He raised himself, solely by his merit, from a very obscure birth, +to the rank of Post Captain in the royal navy, and was, +unfortunately, killed by the savages of the island Owhyhee, on the +14th of February, 1779; which island he had, not long before, +discovered, when prosecuting his third voyage round the globe.</p> + +<p>He possessed, in an eminent degree, all the qualifications +requisite for his profession and great undertakings; together with +the amiable and worthy qualities of the best men.</p> + +<p>Cool and deliberate in judging; sagacious in determining; active +in executing; steady and persevering in enterprising vigilance and +unremitting caution; unsubdued by labour, difficulties, and +disappointments; fertile in expedients; never wanting presence of +mind; always possessing himself, and the full use of a sound +understanding.</p> + +<p>Mild, just, but exact in discipline: He was a father to his +people, who were attached to him from affection, and obedient from +confidence.</p> + +<p>His knowledge, his experience, his sagacity, rendered him so +entirely master of his subject, that the greatest obstacles were +surmounted, and the most dangerous navigations became easy, and +almost safe, under his direction.</p> + +<p>He explored the southern hemisphere to a much higher latitude than +had ever been reached, and with fewer accidents than frequently befal +those who navigate the coasts of this island.</p> + +<p>By his benevolent and unabating attention to the welfare of his +ship's company, he discovered and introduced a system for the +preservation of the health of seamen in long voyages, which has +proved wonderfully efficacious; for in his second voyage round the +world, which continued upwards of three years, he lost only one man +by distemper, of one hundred and eighteen, of which his company +consisted.</p> + +<p>The death of this eminent and valuable man was a loss to mankind +in general; and particularly to be deplored by every nation that +respects useful accomplishments, that honours science, and loves the +benevolent and amiable affections of the heart. It is still more to +be deplored by this country, which may justly boast of having +produced a man hitherto unequalled for nautical talents; and that +sorrow is farther aggravated by the reflection, that his country was +deprived of this ornament by the enmity of a people, from whom, +indeed, it might have been dreaded, but from whom it was not +deserved. For, actuated always by the most attentive care and tender +compassion for the savages in general, this excellent man was ever +assiduously endeavouring, by kind treatment, to dissipate their +fears, and court their friendship; overlooking their thefts and +treacheries, and frequently interposing, at the hazard of his life, +to protect them from the sudden resentment of his own injured +people.</p> + +<p>The object of his last mission was to discover and ascertain the +boundaries of Asia and America, and to penetrate into the northern +ocean by the north-east Cape of Asia.</p> + +<p>Traveller! contemplate, admire, revere, and emulate this great +master in his profession; whose skill and labours have enlarged +natural philosophy; have extended nautical science; and have +disclosed the long-concealed and admirable arrangements of the +Almighty in the formation of this globe, and, at the same time, the +arrogance of mortals, in presuming to account, by their speculations, +for the laws by which he was pleased to create it. It is now +discovered, beyond all doubt, that the same Great Being who created +the universe by his <i>fiat</i>, by the same ordained our earth to +keep a just poise, without a corresponding southern continent--and it +does so! "He stretches out the north over the empty place, and +hangeth the earth upon nothing."--Job, xxvi. 7.</p> + +<p>If the arduous but exact researches of this extraordinary man have +not discovered a new world, they have discovered seas unnavigated and +unknown before. They have made us acquainted with islands, people and +productions, of which we had no conception. And if he has not been so +fortunate as Americus to give his name to a continent, his +pretensions to such a distinction remain unrivalled; and he will be +revered, while there remains a page of his own modest account of his +voyages, and as long as mariners and geographers shall be instructed, +by his new map of the southern hemisphere, to trace the various +courses and discoveries he has made.</p> + +<p>If public services merit public acknowledgments; if the man who +adorned and raised the fame of his country is deserving of honours, +then Captain Cook deserves to have a monument raised to his memory, +by a generous and grateful nation.</p> + +<p>Virtutis uberrimum alimentum est honos.<br> +VAL. MAXIMUS, lib. ii. cap. 6.</p> + +<h2>COOK'S VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.</h2> + +<h2><a name="chapter3-1" id="chapter3-1">CHAPTER I.</a></h2> + +<p>TRANSACTIONS FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE VOYAGE TILL OUR DEPARTURE +FROM NEW ZEALAND.</p> + +<p>SECTION I.</p> + +<p><i>Various Preparations for the Voyage.--Omais Behaviour on +embarking.--Observations for determining the Longitude of Sheerness, +and the North Foreland.--Passage of the Resolution from Deptford to +Plymouth.--Employments there.--Complements of the Crews of both +Ships, and Names of the Officers.--Observations to fix the Longitude +of Plymouth.--Departure of the Resolution.</i></p> + +<p>Having, on the 9th day of February, 1776, received a commission to +command his majesty's sloop the Resolution, I went on board the next +day, hoisted the pendant, and began to enter men. At the same time, +the Discovery, of three hundred tons burthen, was purchased into the +service, and the command of her given to Captain Clerke, who had been +my second lieutenant on board the Resolution, in my second voyage +round the world, from which we had lately returned.</p> + +<p>These two ships were, at this time, in the dock at Deptford, under +the hands of the shipwrights; being ordered to be equipped to make +farther discoveries in the Pacific Ocean, under my direction.</p> + +<p>On the 9th of March, the Resolution was hauled out of dock into +the river; where we completed her rigging, and took on board the +stores and provisions requisite for a voyage of such duration. Both +ships, indeed, were supplied with as much of every necessary article +as we could conveniently stow, and with the best of every kind that +could be procured. And, besides this, every thing that had been +found, by the experience acquired during our former extensive +voyages, to be of any utility in preserving the health of seamen, was +supplied in abundance.</p> + +<p>It was our intention to have sailed to Long Reach on the 6th of +May, when a pilot came on board to carry us thither; but it was the +29th before the wind would permit us to move, and the 30th before we +arrived at that station, where our artillery, powder, shot, and other +ordnance stores were received.</p> + +<p>While we lay in Long Reach, thus employed, the Earl of Sandwich, +Sir Hugh Palliser, and others of the Board of Admiralty, as the last +mark of the very great attention they had all along shewn to this +equipment, paid us a visit on the 8th of June, to examine whether +every thing had been completed conformably to their intentions and +orders, and to the satisfaction of all who were to embark in the +voyage. They, and several other noblemen and gentlemen their friends, +honoured me with their company at dinner on that day; and, on their +coming on board, and also on their going ashore, we saluted them with +seventeen guns, and three cheers.</p> + +<p>With the benevolent view of conveying some permanent benefit to +the inhabitants of Otaheite, and of the other islands in the Pacific +Ocean, whom we might happen to visit, his majesty having commanded +some useful animals to be carried out, we took on board, on the 10th, +a bull, two cows with their calves, and some sheep, with hay and corn +for their subsistence; intending to add to these other useful +animals, when I should arrive at the Cape of Good Hope.</p> + +<p>I was also, from the same laudable motives, furnished with a +sufficient quantity of such of our European garden-seeds, as could +not fail to be a valuable present to our newly discovered islands, by +adding fresh supplies of food to their own vegetable productions.</p> + +<p>Many other articles, calculated to improve the condition of our +friends in the other hemisphere in various ways, were, at the same +time, delivered to us by order of the Board of Admiralty. And both +ships were provided with a proper assortment of iron tools and +trinkets, as the means of enabling us to traffic, and to cultivate a +friendly intercourse with the inhabitants of such new countries as we +might be fortunate enough to meet with.</p> + +<p>The same humane attention was extended to our own wants. Some +additional clothing, adapted to a cold climate, was ordered for our +crews; and nothing was denied to us that could be supposed in the +least conducive to health, or even to convenience.</p> + +<p>Nor did the extraordinary care of those at the head of the naval +department stop here. They were equally solicitous to afford us every +assistance towards rendering our voyage of public utility. +Accordingly, we received on board, next day, several astronomical and +nautical instruments, which the Board of Longitude entrusted to me, +and to Mr King, my second lieutenant; we having engaged to that board +to make all the necessary observations, during the voyage, for the +improvement of astronomy and navigation; and, by our joint labours, +to supply the place of a professed observator. Such a person had been +originally intended to be sent out in my ship.</p> + +<p>The board, likewise, put into our possession the same watch, or +time-keeper, which I had carried out in my last voyage, and had +performed its part so well. It was a copy of Mr Harrison's, +constructed by Mr Kendall. This day, at noon, it was found to be too +slow for mean time at Greenwich, by 3' 31" 89; and by its rate of +going, it lost, on mean time, 1", 209 per day.</p> + +<p>Another time-keeper, and the same number and sort of instruments +for making observations, were put on board the Discovery, under the +care of Mr William Bayly; who, having already given satisfactory +proofs of his skill and diligence as an observator, while employed in +Captain Furneaux's ship, during the late voyage, was engaged a second +time, in that capacity, to embark with Captain Clerke.</p> + +<p>Mr Anderson, my surgeon, who, to skill in his immediate +profession, added great proficiency in natural history, was as +willing as he was well qualified, to describe every thing in that +branch of science which should occur worthy of notice. As he had +already visited the South Sea islands in the same ship, and been of +singular service, by enabling me to enrich my relation of that voyage +with various useful remarks on men and things,[67] I reasonably +expected to derive considerable assistance from him, in recording our +new proceedings.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 67: The very copious vocabulary of the language +of Otaheite, and the comparative specimen of the languages of the +several other islands visited during the former voyage, and published +in Captain Cook's account of it, were furnished by Mr +Anderson.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>I had several young men amongst my sea-officers, who, under my +direction, could be usefully employed in constructing charts, in +taking views of the coasts and headlands near which we should pass, +and in drawing plans of the bays and harbours in which we should +anchor. A constant attention to this I knew to be highly requisite, +if we would render our discoveries profitable to future +navigators.</p> + +<p>And that we might go out with every help that could serve to make +the result of our voyage entertaining to the generality of readers, +as well as instructive to the sailor and scholar, Mr Webber was +pitched upon, and engaged to embark with me, for the express purpose +of supplying the unavoidable imperfections of written accounts, by +enabling us to preserve, and to bring home, such drawings of the most +memorable scenes of our transactions, as could only be executed by a +professed and skilful artist.</p> + +<p>Every preparation being now completed, I received an order to +proceed to Plymouth, and to take the Discovery under my command. I +accordingly gave Captain Clerke two orders, one to put himself under +my command, and the other, to carry his ship round to Plymouth.</p> + +<p>On the 15th the Resolution sailed from Long Reach, with the +Discovery in company, and the same evening they anchored at the Nore. +Next day the Discovery proceeded, in obedience to my order; but the +Resolution was ordered to remain at the Nore till I should join her, +being at this time in London.</p> + +<p>As we were to touch at Otaheite and the Society Islands in our way +to the intended scene of our fresh operations, it had been determined +not to omit this opportunity (the only one ever likely to happen) of +carrying Omai back to his native country. Accordingly, every thing +being ready for our departure, he and I set out together from London +on the 24th, at six o'clock in the morning. We reached Chatham, +between ten and eleven o'clock; and, after dining with Commissioner +Proby, he very obligingly ordered his yacht to carry us to Sheerness, +where my boat was waiting to take us on board.</p> + +<p>Omai left London with a mixture of regret and satisfaction. When +we talked about England, and about those who, during his stay, had +honoured him with their protection or friendship, I could observe +that his spirits were sensibly affected, and that it was with +difficulty he could refrain from tears. But the instant the +conversation turned to his own islands, his eyes began to sparkle +with joy. He was deeply impressed with a sense of the good treatment +he had met with in England, and entertained the highest ideas of the +country and of the people; but the pleasing prospect he now had +before him of returning home, loaded with what he well knew would be +esteemed invaluable treasures there, and the flattering hope which +the possession of these gave him, of attaining to a distinguished +superiority amongst his countrymen, were considerations which +operated, by degrees, to suppress every uneasy sensation; and he +seemed to be quite happy when he got on board the ship.</p> + +<p>He was furnished by his majesty with an ample provision of every +article which, during our intercourse with his country, we had +observed to be in any estimation there, either as useful or as +ornamental. He had, besides, received many presents of the same +nature from Lord Sandwich, Sir Joseph Banks, and several other +gentlemen and ladies of his acquaintance. In short, every method had +been employed, both during his abode in England, and at his +departure, to make him the instrument of conveying to the inhabitants +of the islands of the Pacific Ocean, the most exalted opinion of the +greatness and generosity of the British nation.</p> + +<p>While the Resolution lay at the Nore, Mr King made several +observations for finding the longitude by the watch. The mean of them +all gave 0° 44' 0" for the longitude of the ship. This, reduced +to Sheerness, by the bearing and estimated distance, will make that +place to be 0° 37' 0" E. of Greenwich, which is more by seven +miles than Mr Lyons made it by the watch which Lord Mulgrave had with +him, on his voyage toward the North Pole. Whoever knows any thing of +the distance between Sheerness and Greenwich, will be a judge which +of these two observations is nearest the truth.</p> + +<p>The variation of the needle here, by a mean of different sets, +taken with different compasses, was 20° 37' W.</p> + +<p>On the 25th, about noon, we weighed anchor, and made sail for the +Downs through the Queen's Channel, with a gentle breeze at N.W. by W. +At nine in the evening we anchored, with the North Foreland bearing +S. by E. and Margate Point S.W. by S.</p> + +<p>Next morning, at two o'clock, we weighed and stood round the +Foreland; and when it bore north by the compass, the watch gave +1° 24' E. longitude, which, reduced to the Foreland, will be +1° 21' E. Lunar observations made the preceding evening, fixed it +at 1° 20' E. At eight o'clock the same morning we anchored in the +Downs. Two boats had been built for us at Deal, and I immediately +sent on shore for them. I was told that many people had assembled +there to see Omai, but, to their great disappointment, he did not +land.</p> + +<p>Having received the boats on board, and a light breeze at S.S.E. +springing up, we got under sail the next day at two o'clock in the +afternoon; but the breeze soon died away, and we were obliged to +anchor again till ten o'clock at night. We then weighed with the wind +at E. and proceeded down the Channel.</p> + +<p>On the 30th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we anchored in +Plymouth Sound, where the Discovery had arrived only three days +before. I saluted Admiral Amherst, whose flag was flying on board the +Ocean, with thirteen guns, and he returned the compliment with +eleven.</p> + +<p>It was the first object of our care on arriving at Plymouth, to +replace the water and provisions that we had expended, and to receive +on board a supply of port wine. This was the employment which +occupied us on the 1st and 2d of July.</p> + +<p>During our stay here, the crews were served with fresh beef every +day. And I should not do justice to Mr Ommanney, the agent +victualler, if I did not take this opportunity to mention, that he +shewed a very obliging readiness to furnish me with the best of every +thing that lay within his department. I had been under the like +obligations to him on my setting out upon my last voyage. +Commissioner Ourry, with equal zeal for the service, gave us every +assistance that we wanted from the naval yard.</p> + +<p>It could not but occur to us as a singular and affecting +circumstance, that at the very instant of our departure upon a +voyage, the object of which was to benefit Europe by making fresh +discoveries in North America, there should be the unhappy necessity +of employing others of his majesty's ships, and of conveying numerous +bodies of land forces to secure the obedience of those parts of that +continent which had been discovered and settled by our countrymen in +the last century. On the 6th his majesty's ships Diamond, Ambuscade, +and Unicorn, with a fleet of transports, consisting of sixty-two +sail, bound to America, with the last division of the Hessian troops, +and some horse, were forced into the Sound by a strong N.W. wind.</p> + +<p>On the 8th I received, by express, my instructions for the voyage, +and an order to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope with the Resolution. +I was also directed to leave an order for Captain Clerke to follow us +as soon as he should join his ship, he being at this time detained in +London.</p> + +<p>Our first discoverers of the New World, and navigators of the +Indian and Pacific Oceans, were justly thought to have exerted such +uncommon abilities, and to have accomplished such perilous +enterprises, that their names have been handed down to posterity as +so many Argonauts. Nay, even the hulks of the ships that carried +them, though not converted into constellations in the heavens, used +to be honoured and visited as sacred relics upon earth. We, in the +present age of improved navigation, who have been instructed by their +labours, and have followed them as our guides, have no such claim to +fame. Some merit, however, being still, in the public opinion, +considered as due to those who sail to unexplored quarters of the +globe; in conformity to this favourable judgment, I prefixed to the +account of my last voyage the names of the officers of both my ships, +and a table of the number of their respective crews. The like +information will be expected from me at present.</p> + +<p>The Resolution was fitted out with the same complement of officers +and men as she had before; and the Discovery's establishment varied +from that of the Adventure, in the single instance of her having no +marine officer on board. This arrangement was to be finally completed +at Plymouth; and on the 9th we received the party of marines allotted +for our voyage. Colonel Bell, who commanded the division at this +port, gave me such men for the detachment as I had reason to be +satisfied with. And the supernumerary seamen, occasioned by this +reinforcement, being turned over into the Ocean man-of-war, our +several complements remained fixed, as represented in the following +table:--</p> + +<pre> + RESOLUTION. DISCOVERY. + + Officers and Men. No. Officers No. Officers + Names Names. + + Captains, 1 James Cook. 1 Charles Clerke. + Lieutenants, 3 John Gore. 2 James Burney. + James King. John Rickman. + John Williamson. + Master, 1 William Bligh. 1 Thomas Edgar. + Boatswain, 1 William Ewin. 1 Aneas Atkins. + Carpenter, 1 James Clevely. 1 Peter Reynolds. + Gunner, 1 Robert Anderson. 1 William Peckover. + Surgeon, 1 William Anderson. 1 John Law. + Master's Mates, 3 2 + Midshipmen, 6 4 + Surgeon's Mates, 2 2 + Captain's Clerk, 1 1 + Master at Arms, 1 + Corporal, 1 + Armourer, 1 1 + Ditto Mate, 1 1 + Sail Maker, 1 1 + Ditto Mate, 1 1 + Boatswain's Mates, 3 2 + Carpenter's Ditto, 3 2 + Gunner's Ditto, 2 1 + Carpenter's Crew, 4 4 + Cook, 1 1 + Ditto Mate, 1 + Quarter Masters, 6 4 + Able Seamen, 45 33 + Marines. + Lieutenants, 1 Molesworth Philips. + Serjeant, 1 1 + Corporals, 2 1 + Drummer, 1 1 + Privates, 15 8 + + Total, 112 80 +</pre> + +<p>On the 10th, the commissioner and pay clerks came on board, and +paid the officers and crew up to the 30th of last month. The petty +officers and seamen had, besides, two months wages in advance. Such +indulgence to the latter is no more than what is customary in the +navy. But the payment of what was due to the superior officers was +humanely ordered by the Admiralty, in consideration of our peculiar +situation, that we might be better able to defray the very great +expence of furnishing ourselves with a stock of necessaries for a +voyage which, probably, would be of unusual duration, and to regions +where no supply could be expected.</p> + +<p>Nothing now obstructing my departure but a contrary wind, which +blew strong at S.W., in the morning of the 11th, I delivered into the +hands of Mr Burney, first lieutenant of the Discovery, Captain +Clerke's sailing orders; a copy of which I also left with the officer +commanding his majesty's ships at Plymouth, to be delivered to the +captain immediately on his arrival. In the afternoon, the wind +moderating, we weighed with the ebb, and got farther out, beyond all +the shipping in the sound; where, after making an unsuccessful +attempt to get to sea, we were detained most of the following day, +which was employed in receiving on board a supply of water; and, by +the same vessel that brought it, all the empty casks were +returned.</p> + +<p>As I did not imagine my stay at Plymouth would have been so long +as it proved, we did not get our instruments on shore to make the +necessary observations for ascertaining the longitude by the watch. +For the same reason, Mr Bayly did not set about this, till he found +that the Discovery would probably be detained some days after us. He +then placed his quadrant upon Drake's Island; and had time, before +the Resolution sailed, to make observations sufficient for the +purpose we had in view. Our watch made the island to lie 4° 14', +and his, 4° 13 1/2', west of Greenwich. Its latitude, as found by +Messrs Wales and Bayly, on the last voyage, is 50° 21' 30" N.</p> + +<p>We weighed again at eight in the evening, and stood out of the +sound, with a gentle breeze at N.W. by W.</p> + +<p>SECTION II.</p> + +<p><i>Passage of the Resolution to Teneriffe.--Reception +there.--Description of Santa Cruz Road.--Refreshment to be met +with.--Observations for fixing the Longitude of Teneriffe.--Some +Account of the Island.--Botanical Observations.--Cities of Santa Cruz +and Loguna.--Agriculture.--Air and +Climate.--Commerce.--Inhabitants</i>.</p> + +<p>We had not been long out of Plymouth Sound, before the wind came +more westerly, and blew fresh, so that we were obliged to ply down +the Channel; and it was not till the 14th, at eight in the evening, +that we were off the Lizard.</p> + +<p>On the 16th, at noon, St Agnes's light-house on the isles of +Scilly bore N.W. by W., distant seven or eight miles. Our latitude +was now 49° 53' 30" N., and our longitude, by the watch, 6° +11' W. Hence, I reckon that St Agnes's light-house is in 49° 57' +30" N. latitude, and in 6° 20' of W. longitude.</p> + +<p>On the 17th[68] and 18th we were off Ushant, and found the +longitude of the island to be, by the watch, 5° 18' 37" W. The +variation was 23° 0' 50", in the same direction.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 68: It appears from Captain Cook's log-book, +that he began his judicious operations for preserving the health of +his crew, very early in the voyage. On the 17th, the ship was smoked +between decks with gunpowder. The spare sails also were then well +aired.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>With a strong gale at S., on the 19th, we stood to the westward, +till eight o'clock in the morning; when the wind shifting to the W. +and N.W., we tacked and stretched to the southward. At this time, we +saw nine sail of large ships, which we judged to be French +men-of-war. They took no particular notice of us, nor we of them.</p> + +<p>At ten o'clock in the morning of the 22d, we saw Cape Ortegal; +which at noon bore S.E. 1/2 S., about four leagues distant. At this +time we were in the latitude of 44° 6' N.; and our longitude, by +the watch, was 8° 23" W.</p> + +<p>After two days of calm weather, we passed Cape Finisterre on the +afternoon of the 24th, with a fine gale at N.N.E. The longitude of +this cape, by the watch, is 9° 29' W.; and, by the mean of +forty-one lunar observations, made before and after we passed it, and +reduced to it by the watch, the result was 9° 19' 12".</p> + +<p>On the 30th, at six minutes and thirty-eight seconds past ten +o'clock at night, apparent time, I observed, with a night telescope, +the moon totally eclipsed. By the <i>ephemeris</i>, the same happened +at Greenwich at nine minutes past eleven o'clock; the difference +being one hour, two minutes, and twenty-two seconds, or 15° 35' +30" of longitude. The watch, for the same time, gave 15° 26' 45' +longitude W.; and the latitude was 31° 10' N. No other +observation could be made on this eclipse, as the moon was hid behind +the clouds the greater part of the time; and, in particular, when the +beginning and end of total darkness, and the end of the eclipse, +happened.</p> + +<p>Finding that we had not hay and corn sufficient for the +subsistence of the stock of animals on board, till our arrival at the +Cape of Good Hope, I determined to touch at Teneriffe, to get a +supply of these, and of the usual refreshments for ourselves; +thinking that island, for such purposes, better adapted than Madeira. +At four in the afternoon of the 31st, we saw Teneriffe, and steered +for the eastern part. At nine, being near it, we hauled up, and stood +off and on during the night.</p> + +<p>At day-light, on the morning of the 1st of August, we sailed round +the east point of the island; and, about eight o'clock, anchored on +the S.E. side of it, in the road of Santa Cruz, in twenty-three +fathoms water; the bottom, sand and ooze. Punta de Nago, the east +point of the road, bore N. 64° E.; St Francis's church, +remarkable for its high steeple, W.S.W.; the Pic, S. 65° W.; and +the S.W. point of the road, on which stands a fort or castle, S. +39° W. In this situation, we moored N.E. and S.W. with a cable +each way, being near half a mile from the shore.</p> + +<p>We found, riding in this road, La Boussole, a French frigate, +commanded by the Chevalier de Borda; two brigantines of the same +nation; an English brigantine from London, bound to Senegal; and +fourteen sail of Spanish vessels.</p> + +<p>No sooner had we anchored, than we were visited by the master of +the port, who satisfied himself with asking the ship's name. Upon his +leaving us, I sent an officer ashore, to present my respects to the +governor; and to ask his leave to take in water, and to purchase such +articles as we were in want of. All this he granted with the greatest +politeness; and, soon after, sent an officer on board, to compliment +me on my arrival. In the afternoon, I waited upon him in person, +accompanied by some of my officers; and, before I returned to my +ship, bespoke some corn and straw for the live stock; ordered a +quantity of wine from Mr McCarrick, the contractor, and made an +agreement with the master of a Spanish boat to supply us with water, +as I found that we could not do it ourselves.</p> + +<p>The road of Santa Cruz is situated before the town of the same +name, on the S.E. side of the island. It is, as I am told, the +principal road of Teneriffe, for shelter, capacity, and the goodness +of its bottom. It lies entirely open to the S.E. and S. winds. But +these winds are never of long continuance; and, they say, there is +not an instance of a ship driving from her anchors on shore.[69] This +may, in part, be owing to the great care they take in mooring them; +for I observed, that all the ships we met with, there, had four +anchors out; two to the N.E., and two to the S.W.; and their cables +buoyed up with casks. Ours suffered a little by not observing this +last precaution.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 69: Though no such instance was known to those +from whom Captain Cook had this information, we learn from Glas, that +some years before he was at Teneriffe, almost all the shipping in the +road were driven on shore. See Glas's History of the Canary Islands, +p. 235. We may well suppose the precautions now used, have prevented +any more such accidents happening. This will sufficiently justify +Captain Cook's account.--- D.]</blockquote> + +<p>At the S.W. part of the road, a stone pier runs out into the sea +from the town, for the convenience of loading and landing of goods. +To this pier, the water that supplies the shipping is conveyed. This, +as also what the inhabitants of Santa Cruz use, is derived from a +rivulet that runs from the hills, the greatest part of which comes +into the town in wooden spouts or troughs, that are supported by +slender posts, and the remainder doth not reach the sea; though it is +evident, from the size of the channel, that sometimes large torrents +rush down. At this time these troughs were repairing, so that fresh +water, which is very good here, was scarce.</p> + +<p>Were we to judge from the appearance of the country in the +neighbourhood of Santa Cruz, it might be concluded that Teneriffe is +a barren spot, insufficient to maintain even its own inhabitants. The +ample supplies, however, which we received, convinced as that they +had enough to spare for visitors. Besides wine, which is the chief +produce of the island, beef may be had at a moderate price. The oxen +are small and bony, and weigh about ninety pounds a quarter. The meat +is but lean, and was, at present, sold for half a bit (three-pence +sterling) a pound. I, unadvisedly, bought the bullocks alive, and +paid considerably more. Hogs, sheep, goats, and poultry, are likewise +to be bought at the same moderate rate; and fruits are in great +plenty. At this time we had grapes, figs, pears, mulberries, +plantains, and musk-melons. There is a variety of other fruits +produced here, though not in season at this time. Their pumpkins, +onions, and potatoes, are exceedingly good of their kind; and keep +better at sea than any I ever before met with.</p> + +<p>The Indian corn, which is also their produce, cost me about three +shillings and sixpence a bushel; and the fruits and roots were, in +general, very cheap. They have not any plentiful supply of fish from +the adjoining sea; but a very considerable fishery is carried on by +their vessels upon the coast of Barbary: and the produce of it sells +at a reasonable price. Upon the whole, I found Teneriffe to be a more +eligible place than Madeira, for ships bound on long voyages to touch +at; though the wine of the latter, according to my taste, is as much +superior to that of the former, as strong beer is to small. To +compensate for this, the difference of prices is considerable; for +the best Teneriffe wine was now sold for twelve pounds a pipe; +whereas a pipe of the best Madeira would have cost considerably more +than double that sum.[70]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 70: Formerly, there was made at Teneriffe a +great quantity of Canary sack, which the French call <i>Vin de +Malvesie</i>; and we, corruptly after them, name Malmsey (from +Malvesia, a town in the Morea, famous for such luscious wine). In the +last century, and still later, much of this was imported into +England; but little wine is now made there, but of the sort described +by Captain Cook. Not more than fifty pipes of the rich Canary were +annually made in Glas's time; and he says, they now gather the grapes +when green, and make a dry hard wine of them, fit for hot climates, +p. 262.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>The Chevalier De Borda, commander of the French frigate now lying +in Santa Cruz road, was employed, in conjunction with Mr Varila, a +Spanish gentleman, in making astronomical observations for +ascertaining the going of two time-keepers which they had on board +their ship. For this purpose, they had a tent pitched on the pier +head, where they made their observations, and compared their watches, +every day at noon, with the clock on shore, by signals. These signals +the chevalier very obligingly communicated to us; so that we could +compare our watch at the same time. But our stay was too short, to +profit much by his kindness.</p> + +<p>The three days comparisons which we made, assured us that the +watch had not materially, if at all, altered her rate of going; and +gave us the same longitude, within a very few seconds, that was +obtained by finding the time from observations of the sun's altitude +from the horizon of the sea. The watch, from a mean of these +observations, on the 1st, 2d, and 3d of August, made the longitude +16° 31' W.; and, in like manner, the latitude was found to be +28° 30' 11" N.</p> + +<p>Mr Varila informed us, that the true longitude was 18° 35' +30", from Paris, which is only 16° 16' 30" from Greenwich; less +than what our watch gave by 14' 30". But, far from looking upon this +as an error in the watch, I rather think it a confirmation of its +having gone well; and that the longitude by it may be nearer the +truth than any other. It is farther confirmed by the lunar +observations that we made in the road, which gave 16° 37' 10". +Those made before we arrived, and reduced to the road by the watch, +gave 16° 33' 30"; and those made after we left it, and reduced +back in the same manner, gave 16° 28'. The mean of the three is +16° 30' 40".</p> + +<p>To reduce these several longitudes, and the latitude, to the Pic +of Teneriffe, one of the most noted points of land with geographers, +(to obtain the true situation of which, I have entered into this +particular discussion,) I had recourse to the bearing, and a few +hours of the ship's run after leaving Santa Cruz road; and found it +to be 12' 11" S. of the road, and 29' 30" of longitude W. of it. As +the base, which helped to determine this, was partly estimated, it is +liable to some error; but I think I cannot be much mistaken. Dr +Maskelyne, in his <i>British Mariner's Guide</i>, places the Pic in +the latitude of 28° 12' 54". This, with the bearing from the +road, will give the difference of longitude 43', which considerably +exceeds the distance they reckon the Pic to be from Santa Cruz. I +made the latitude of the Pic to be 28° 18' N. Upon that +supposition, its longitude will be as follows:</p> + +<p>{The time-keeper, 17° 0' 30" } By {Lunar observations, 16° +30' 20"} W. {Mr Varila, 16° 46' 0" }</p> + +<p>But if the latitude of it is 28° 12' 54", as in the <i>British +Mariner's Guide</i>, its longitude will be 13° 30' more +westerly.</p> + +<p>The variation, when we were at anchor in the road, by the mean of +all our compasses, was found to be 14° 41' 20" W. The dip of the +N. end of the needle was 61° 52' 30".</p> + +<p>Some of Mr Anderson's remarks on the natural appearances of +Teneriffe, and its productions, and what he observed himself, or +learnt by information, about the general state of the island, will be +of use, particularly in marking what changes may have happened there +since Mr Glas visited it. They here follow in his own words:</p> + +<p>"While we were standing in for the land, the weather being +perfectly clear, we had an opportunity of seeing the celebrated Pic +of Teneriffe. But, I own, I was much disappointed in my expectation +with respect to its appearance. It is, certainly, far from equalling +the noble figure of Pico, one of the western isles which I have seen; +though its perpendicular height may be greater. This circumstance, +perhaps, arises from its being surrounded by other very high hills; +whereas Pico stands without a rival."</p> + +<p>"Behind the city of Santa Cruz, the country rises gradually, and +is of a moderate height. Beyond this, to the south-westward, it +becomes higher, and continues to rise toward the Pic, which, from the +road, appears but little higher than the surrounding hills. From +thence it seems to decrease, though not suddenly, as far as the eye +can reach. From a supposition that we should not stay above one day, +I was obliged to contract my excursions into the country; otherwise, +I had proposed to visit the top of this famous mountain."[71]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 71: See an account of a journey to the top of +the Pic of Teneriffe, in Sprat's History of the Royal Society, p.200, +etc. Glas also went to the top of it.--History of the Canary Islands, +p. 252 to 259. In the Philosophical Transactions, vol. xlvii. p. +353-356, we have observations made, in going up the Pic of Teneriffe, +by Dr T. Heberden. The doctor makes its height, above the level of +the sea, to be 2566 fathoms, or 15,396 English feet; and says, that +this was confirmed by two subsequent observations by himself, and +another made by Mr Crosse, the consul. And yet I find that the +Chevalier de Borda, who measured the height of this mountain in +August 1776, makes it to be only 1931 French toises, or 12,340 +English feet. See Dr Forster's Observations during a Voyage round the +World, p. 32.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>"To the eastward of Santa Cruz, the island appears perfectly +barren. Ridges of hills run toward the sea; between which ridges are +deep valleys, terminating at mountains or hills that ran across, and +are higher than the former. Those that run toward the sea, are marked +by impressions on their sides, which make them appear as a succession +of conic hills, with their tops very rugged. The higher ones that run +across, are more uniform in their appearance."</p> + +<p>"In the forenoon of the 1st of August, after we had anchored in +the road, I went on shore to one of these valleys, with an intention +to reach the top of the remoter hills, which seemed covered with +wood; but time would not allow me to get farther than their foot. +After walking about three miles, I found no alteration in the +appearance of the lower hills, which produce great quantities of the +<i>euphorbia Canariensis</i>. It is surprising that this large +succulent plant should thrive on so burnt-up a soil. When broken +which is easily done, the quantity of juice is very great; and it +might be supposed that, when dried, it would shrivel to nothing; yet +it is a pretty tough, though soft and light wood. The people here +believe its juice to be so caustic as to erode the skin;[72] but I +convinced them, though with much difficulty, to the contrary, by +thrusting my finger into the plant full of it, without afterward +wiping it off. They break down the bushes of <i>euphorbia</i>, and, +suffering them to dry, carry them home for fuel. I met with nothing +else growing there, but two or three small shrubs, and a few +fig-trees near the bottom of the valley."</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 72: Glas, p. 231, speaking of this plant, says, +"that he cannot imagine why the natives of the Canaries do not +extract the juice, and use it instead of pitch, for the bottoms of +their boats." We now learn from Mr Anderson their reason for not +using it,--D].</blockquote> + +<p>"The basis of the hills is a heavy, compact, bluish stone, mixed +with some shining particles; and, on the surface, large masses of red +friable earth, or stone, are scattered about. I also often found the +same substance disposed in thick strata; and the little earth, +strewed here and there, was a blackish mould. There were likewise +some pieces of slag; one of which, from its weight and smooth +surface, seemed almost wholly metalline."</p> + +<p>"The mouldering state of these hills is, doubtless, owing to the +perpetual action of the sun, which calcines their surface. This +mouldered part being afterward washed away by the heavy rains, +perhaps is the cause of their sides being so uneven. For, as the +different substances of which they are composed, are more or less +easily affected by the sun's heat, they will be carried away in the +like proportions. Hence, perhaps, the tops of the hills, being of the +hardest rock, have stood, while the other parts on a declivity have +been destroyed. As I have usually observed, that the tops of most +mountains that are covered with trees have a more uniform appearance, +I am inclined to believe that this is owing to their being +shaded."</p> + +<p>"The city of Santa Cruz, though not large, is tolerably well +built. The churches are not magnificent without; but within are +decent, and indifferently ornamented. They are inferior to some of +the churches at Madeira; but I imagine this rather arises from the +different disposition of the people, than from their inability to +support them better. For the private houses, and dress of the Spanish +inhabitants of Santa Cruz, are far preferable to those of the +Portuguese at Madeira; who, perhaps, are willing to strip themselves, +that they may adorn their churches."</p> + +<p>"Almost facing the stone pier at the landing-place, is a handsome +marble column lately put up, ornamented with some human figures, that +do no discredit to the artist; with an inscription in Spanish, to +commemorate the occasion of the erection, and the date."</p> + +<p>"In the afternoon of the 2d, four of us hired mules to ride to the +city of Laguna,[73] so called from an adjoining lake, about four +miles from Santa Cruz. We arrived there between five and six in the +evening; but found a sight of it very unable to compensate for our +trouble, as the road was very bad, and the mules but indifferent. The +place is, indeed, pretty extensive, but scarcely deserves to be +dignified with the name of city. The disposition of its streets is +very irregular; yet some of them are of a tolerable breadth, and have +some good houses. In general, however, Laguna is inferior in +appearance to Santa Cruz, though the latter is but small, if compared +with the former. We are informed, likewise, that Laguna is declining +fast; there being, at present, some vineyards where houses formerly +stood; whereas Santa Cruz is increasing daily."</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 73: Its extended name is St Christobal de la +Laguna; and it used to be reckoned the capital of the island, the +gentry and lawyers living there; though the governor-general of the +Canary Islands resides at Santa Cruz, as being the centre of their +trade, both with Europe and America. See Glas's History, p. +248.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>"The road leading from Santa Cruz to Laguna runs up a steep hill, +which is very barren; but, lower down, we saw some fig-trees, and +several corn fields. These are but small, and not thrown into ridges, +as is practised in England. Nor does it appear that they can raise +any corn here without great labour, as the ground is so encumbered +with stones, that they are obliged to collect and lay them in broad +rows, or walls, in small distances. The large hills that run to the +S.W., appeared to be pretty well furnished with trees. Nothing else +worth noticing presented itself during this excursion, except a few +aloe plants in flower, near the side of the road, and the +cheerfulness of our guides, who amused us with songs by the way."</p> + +<p>"Most of the laborious work in this island is performed by mules; +horses being to appearance scarce, and chiefly reserved for the use +of the officers. They are of a small size, but well shaped and +spirited. Oxen are also employed to drag their casks along upon a +large clumsy piece of wood; and they are yoked by the head, though it +doth not seem that this has any peculiar advantage over our method of +fixing the harness on the shoulders. In my walks and excursions I saw +some hawks, parrots which are natives of the island, the sea-swallow +or tern, sea-gulls, partridges, wagtails, swallows, martins, +blackbirds, and Canary-birds in large flocks. There are also lizards +of the common, and another sort; some insects, as locusts; and three +or four sorts of dragon flies."</p> + +<p>"I had an opportunity of conversing with a sensible and +well-informed gentleman residing here, and whose veracity I have not +the least reason to doubt. From him I learnt some particulars, which, +during the short stay of three days, did not fall within my own +observation. He informed me, that a shrub is common here, agreeing +exactly with the description given by Tournefort and Linnaeus, of the +tea shrub, as growing in China and Japan. It is reckoned a weed, and +he roots out thousands of them every year from his vineyards. The +Spaniards, however, of the island, sometimes use it as tea, and +ascribe to it all the qualities of that imported from China. They +also give it the name of tea; but what is remarkable, they say it was +found here when the islands were first discovered."</p> + +<p>"Another botanical curiosity, mentioned by him, is what they call +the impregnated lemon.[74] It is a perfect and distinct lemon, +inclosed within another, differing from the outer one only in being a +little more globular. The leaves of the tree that produces this sort, +are much longer than those of the common one; and it was represented +to me as being crooked, and not equal in beauty."</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 74: The writer of the Relation of Teneriffe, in +Sprat's History, p. 207, takes notice of this lemon as produced here, +and calls it <i>Pregnada</i>. Probably, <i>emprennada</i>, the +Spanish word for impregnated, is the name it goes +by.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>"From him I learnt also, that a certain sort of grape growing +here, is reckoned an excellent remedy in phthisical complaints; and +the air and climate, in general, are remarkably healthful, and +particularly adapted to give relief in such diseases. This he +endeavoured to account for, by its being always in one's power to +procure a different temperature of the air, by residing at different +heights in the island; and he expressed his surprise that the English +physicians should never have thought of sending their consumptive +patients to Teneriffe, instead of Nice or Lisbon. How much the +temperature of the air varies here, I myself could sensibly perceive, +only in riding from Santa Cruz up to Laguna; and you may ascend till +the cold becomes intolerable. I was assured that no person can live +comfortably within a mile of the perpendicular height of the Pic, +after the month of August."[75]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 75: This agrees with Dr T. Heberden's account, +who says that the sugar-loaf part of the mountain, or <i>la +pericosa</i>, (as it is called,) which is an eighth part of a league +(or 1980 feet) to the top, is covered with snow the greatest part of +the year. See Philosophical Transactions, as quoted +above.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>"Although some smoke constantly issues from near the top of the +Pic, they have had no earthquake or eruption of a volcano since 1704, +when the port of Garrachica, where much of their trade was formerly +carried on, was destroyed."[76]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 76: This port was then filled up by the rivers +of burning lava that flowed into it from a volcano; insomuch that +houses are now built where ships formerly lay at anchor. See Glas's +History, p. 244.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>"Their trade, indeed, must be considered as very considerable; for +they reckon that forty thousand pipes of wine are annually made, the +greatest part of which is either consumed in the island, or made into +brandy, and sent to the Spanish West Indies.[77] About six thousand +pipes were exported every year to North America, while the trade with +it was uninterrupted; at present, they think not above half the +quantity. The corn they raise is, in general, insufficient to +maintain the inhabitants; but the deficiency used to be supplied by +importation from the North Americans, who took their wines in +return."</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 77: Glas, p. 342, says, that they annually +export no less than fifteen thousand pipes of wine and brandy. In +another place, p. 252, he tells us, that the number of the +inhabitants of Teneriffe, when the last account was taken, was no +less than 96,000. We may reasonably suppose that there has been a +considerable increase of population since Glas visited the island, +which is above thirty years ago. The quantity of wine annually +consumed, as the common beverage of at least one hundred thousand +persons, must amount to several thousand pipes. There must be a vast +expenditure of it, by conversion into brandy; to produce one pipe of +which, five or six pipes of wine must be distilled. An attention to +these particulars will enable every one to judge, that the account +given to Mr Anderson, of an annual produce of 40,000 pipes of wine, +has a foundation in truth.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>"They make a little silk; but unless we reckon the +filtering-stones, brought in great numbers from Grand Canary, the +wine is the only considerable article of the foreign commerce of +Teneriffe.'</p> + +<p>"None of the race of inhabitants found here when the Spaniards +discovered the Canaries, now remain a distinct people;[78] having +intermarried with the Spanish settlers; but their descendants are +known, from their being remarkably tall, large-boned, and strong. The +men are, in general, of a tawny colour, and the women have a pale +complexion, entirely destitute of that bloom which distinguishes our +northern beauties. The Spanish custom of wearing black clothes +continues amongst them; but the men seem more indifferent about this, +and in some measure dress like the French. In other respects, we +found the inhabitants of Teneriffe to be a decent and very civil +people, retaining that grave cast which distinguishes those of their +country from other European nations. Although we do not think that +there is a great similarity between our manners and those of the +Spaniards, it is worth observing, that Omai did not think there was +much difference. He only said, 'that they seemed not so friendly as +the English; and that, in their persons, they approached those of his +countrymen.'"</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 78: It was otherwise in Glas's time, when a few +families of the <i>Guanches</i> (as they are called) remained still +in Teneriffe, not blended with the Spaniards. Glas, p. +240.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION III.</p> + +<p><i>Departure from Teneriffe.--Danger of the Ship near +Bonavista.--Isle of Mayo.--Port Praya.--Precautions against the Rain +and sultry Weather in the Neighbourhood of the Equator.--Position of +the Coast of Brazil.--Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope.--Transactions +there.--Junction of the Discovery.--Mr Anderson's Journey up the +Country.--Astronomical Observations,--Nautical Remarks on the Passage +from England to the Cape, with regard to the Currents and the +Variation</i>.</p> + +<p>Having completed our water, and got on board every other thing we +wanted at Teneriffe, we weighed anchor on the 4th of August, and +proceeded on our voyage, with a fine gale at N.E.</p> + +<p>At nine o'clock in the evening on the 10th,[79] we saw the island +of Bonavista bearing south, distant little more than a league; +though, at this time, we thought ourselves much farther off: But this +proved a mistake. For, after hauling to the eastward till twelve +o'clock, to clear the sunken rocks that lie about a league from the +S.E. point of the island, we found ourselves, at that time, close +upon them, and did but just weather the breakers. Our situation, for +a few minutes, was very alarming. I did not choose to sound, as that +might have heightened the danger, without any possibility of +lessening it. I make the north end of the island of Bonavista to lie +in the latitude of 16° 17' N., and in the longitude of 22° +59' W.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 79: As a proof of Captain Cook's attention, +both to the discipline and to the health of his ship's company, it +may be worth while to observe here, that it appears from his +log-book, he exercised them at great guns and small arms, and cleaned +and smoked the ship betwixt decks, twice in the interval between the +4th and the 10th of August.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>As soon as we were clear of the rocks, we steered S.S.W., till +day-break next morning, and then hauled to the westward, to go +between Bonavista and the isle of Mayo, intending to look into Port +Praya for the Discovery, as I had told Captain Clerke that I should +touch there, and did not know how soon he might sail after me. At one +in the afternoon, we saw the rocks that lie on the S.W. side of +Bonavista, bearing S.E., distant three or four leagues.</p> + +<p>Next morning, at six o'clock, the isle of Mayo bore S.S.E., +distant about five leagues. In this situation we sounded, and found +ground at sixty fathoms. At the same time the variation, by the mean +of several azimuths taken with three different compasses, was 9° +32 1/2' W. At eleven o'clock, one extreme of Mayo bore E. by N., and +the other S.E. by S. In this position, two roundish hills appeared +near its N.E. part; farther on, a large and higher hill; and, at +about two-thirds of its length, a single one that is peaked. At the +distance we now saw this island, which was three or four miles, there +was not the least appearance of vegetation, nor any relief to the eye +from that lifeless brown which prevails in countries under the Torrid +Zone that are unwooded.</p> + +<p>Here I cannot help remarking that Mr Nichelson, in his Preface to +"Sundry Remarks and Observations made in a Voyage to the East +Indies,"[80] tells us, that "with eight degrees west variation, or +any thing above that, you may venture to sail by the Cape de Verde +Islands night or day, being well assured, with that variation, that +you are to the eastward of them." Such an assertion might prove of +dangerous consequence, were there any that would implicitly trust to +it. We also tried the current, and found one setting S.W. by W., +something more than half a mile an hour. We had reason to expect +this, from the differences between the longitude given by the watch +and dead reckoning, which, since our leaving Teneriffe, amounted to +one degree.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 80: On board his majesty's ship Elizabeth, from +1758 to 1764; by William Nichelson, master of the said ship.--London, +1773.]</blockquote> + +<p>While we were amongst these islands, we had light breezes of wind, +varying from the S.E. to E., and some calms. This shews that the Cape +de Verde islands are either extensive enough to break the current of +the trade wind, or that they are situated just beyond its verge, in +that space where the variable winds, found on getting near the Line, +begin. The first supposition, however, is the most probable, as +Dampier found the wind westerly here in the month of February; at +which time the trade wind is supposed to extend farthest toward the +equinoctial.[81] The weather was hot and sultry, with some rain; and, +for the most part, a dull whiteness prevailed in the sky, that seems +a medium between fog and clouds. In general, the tropical regions +seldom enjoy that clear atmosphere observable where variable winds +blow; nor does the sun shine with such brightness. This circumtance, +however, seems an advantage; for otherwise, perhaps, the rays of the +sun, being uninterrupted, would render the heat quite unsupportable. +The nights are, nevertheless, often clear and serene.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 81: Dampier's Voyages, vol. iii. p.10.--Captain +Krusenstern appears to be of the same opinion, as to the Cape de +Verde islands being of sufficient magnitude to alter the direction of +the trade winds, remarking that S.W. winds are frequently met with +there, and that if they are not, the wind is always very moderate in +their vicinity. He recommends vessels, on their passage to the +equator, to take their course to the westward of these islands, so as +to cross the parallel of 17°, or that of the island of Antonio in +26-1/2°, or even that of 27°, and then to steer S.E. by S. +directly to the equator. He further advises, that, if possible, the +passage of the Line be effected in 20° or 21°, as then there +is the advantage of a directly free wind as soon as the S.E. trade +sets in, and of course the ship gets quicker to the southward. But +this can rarely be done. He himself crossed the equator in 24° +20' W., after a passage of thirty days from Santa Cruz. Ships, he +informs us, when crossing in a more westerly direction than 25° +and 26°, have been driven by strong currents, and a too southerly +trade wind, so near the coast of Brazil, as not to be able to clear +Cape St Augustin. The present opportunity is taken of mentioning, +that this very cautious and intelligent navigator agrees, in general, +with Cook, as to Nichelson's rule. "His instructions for crossing the +Line, on the voyage to India, with 6° 30' and 7° 00' west +variation, but in returning to Europe, with eight degrees, might have +been of use forty years ago, when the method of finding the longitude +at sea by distances of the sun and moon was known to very few +navigators, and for a time no great error was committed by pursuing +them; but at present a variation of seven degrees would hardly be +found on the coast of Africa."--The reason is, as the scientific +reader must know, that the variation has been on the western increase +since the period alluded to. Thus Nichelson found it at St Helena, in +1764, to be 11° 38', and Captain Krusenstern, in 1806, a space of +forty-two years, 17° 18' 10".--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At nine o'clock in the morning of the 13th, we arrived before Port +Praya, in the island of St Jago, where we saw two Dutch East India +ships, and a small brigantine, at anchor. As the Discovery was not +there, and we had expended but little water in our passage from +Teneriffe, I did not think proper to go in, but stood to the +southward. Some altitudes of the sun were now taken, to ascertain the +true time. The longitude by the watch, deduced therefrom, was 23° +48' west; the little island in the bay bore W.N.W., distant near +three miles, which will make its longitude 23° 51'. The same +watch, on my late voyage, made the longitude to be 23° 30' W.; +and we observed the latitude to be 14° 53' 30" N.</p> + +<p>The day after we left the Cape de Verde islands, we lost the N.E. +trade wind; but did not get that which blows from the S.E. till the +30th, when we were in the latitude of 2° north, and in the +twenty-fifth degree of west longitude.</p> + +<p>During this interval,[82] the wind was mostly in the S.W. quarter. +Sometimes it blew fresh, and in squalls; but for the most part a +gentle breeze. The calms were few, and of short duration. Between the +latitude of 12° and of 7° N., the weather was generally dark +and gloomy, with frequent rains, which enabled us to save as much +water as filled most of our empty casks.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 82: On the 18th, I sunk a bucket with a +thermometer seventy fathoms below the surface of the sea, where it +remained two minutes; and it took three minutes more to haul it up. +The mercury in the thermometer was at 66, which before, in the air, +stood at 78, and in the surface of the sea at 79. The water which +came up in the bucket, contained, by Mr Cavendish's table, 1/25, 7 +part salt; and that at the surface of the sea 1/29, 4. As this last +was taken up after a smart shower of rain, it might be lighter on +that account.--<i>Captain Cook's log-book</i>.]</blockquote> + +<p>These rains, and the close sultry weather accompanying them, too +often bring on sickness in this passage. Every bad consequence, at +least, is to be apprehended from them; and commanders of ships cannot +be too much upon their guard, by purifying the air between decks with +fires and smoke, and by obliging the people to dry their clothes at +every opportunity. These precautions were constantly observed on +board the Resolution[83] and Discovery; and we certainly profited by +them, for we had now fewer sick than on either of my former voyages. +We had, however, the mortification to find our ship exceedingly leaky +in all her upper works. The hot and sultry weather we had just passed +through, had opened her seams, which had been badly caulked at first, +so wide, that they admitted the rain-water through as it fell. There +was hardly a man that could lie dry in his bed; and the officers in +the gun-room were all driven out of their cabins, by the water that +came through the sides. The sails in the sail-room got wet; and +before we had weather to dry them, many of them were much damaged, +and a great expence of canvas and of time became necessary to make +them in some degree serviceable. Having experienced the same defect +in our sail-rooms on my late voyage, it had been represented to the +yard-officers, who undertook to remove it. But it did not appear to +me that any thing had been done to remedy the complaint. To repair +these defects the caulkers were set to work, as soon as we got into +fair and settled weather, to caulk the decks and inside weather-works +of the ship; for I would not trust them over the sides while we were +at sea.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 83: The particulars are mentioned in his +log-book. On the 14th of August a fire was made in the well, to air +the ship below. On the 15th, the spare sails were aired upon deck, +and a fire made to air the sail-room. On the 17th, cleaned and smoked +betwixt decks, and the bread-room aired with fires. On the 21st, +cleaned and smoked betwixt decks; and on the 22d, the men's bedding +was spread on deck to air.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the first of September[84] we crossed the equator, in the +longitude of 27° 38' W., with a fine gale at S.E. by S.; and +notwithstanding my apprehensions of falling in with the coast of +Brazil in stretching to the S.W., I kept the ship a full point from +the wind. However, I found my fears were ill-grounded; for on drawing +near that coast, we met with the wind more and more easterly; so +that, by the time we were in the latitude of 10° S., we could +make a south-easterly course good.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 84: The afternoon, as appears from Mr +Anderson's Journal, was spent in performing the old and ridiculous +ceremony of ducking those who had not crossed the equator before. +Though Captain Cook did not suppress the custom, he thought it too +trifling to deserve the least mention of it in his Journal, or even +in his log-book. Pernetty, the writer of Bougainville's Voyage to the +Falkland Islands, in 1763 and 1764, thought differently; for his +account of the celebration of this childish festival on board his +ship, is extended through seventeen pages, and makes the subject of +an entire chapter, under the title of <i>Baptême de la +Ligne</i>. + +<p>It may be worth while to transcribe his introduction to the +description of it. "C'est un usage qui ne remonte pas plus haut que +ce voyage célébre de Gama, qui a fourni au Camoens le +sujet de la Lusiade. L'idée qu'on ne sçauroit +être un bon marin, sans avoir traversé l'Equateur, +l'ennui inséparable d'une longue navigation, un certain esprit +republicain qui regne dans toutes les petites societés, +peut-être toutes ces causes reunies, ont pu donner naissance +à ces especes de saturnales. Quoiqu'il en soi, elles furent +adoptées, en un instant, dans toutes les nations, et les +hommes les plus eclairés furent obligés de se soumettre +à une coutume dont ils reconnoissoient l'absurdité. +Car, partout, dès que le peuple parle, il faut que le sage se +mette à l'unison."--<i>Histoire d'un Voyage aux Isles +Malouines</i>, p. 107, 108.--D.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>On the 8th, we were in the latitude of 8° 57' S.; which is a +little to the southward of Cape St Augustine, on the coast of Brazil. +Our longitude, deduced from a very great number of lunar +observations, was 34° 16' W.; and by the watch, 34° 47'. The +former is 1° 43', and the latter 2° 14' more westerly than +the island of Fernando de Noronha, the situation of which was pretty +well determined during my late voyage. Hence I concluded that we +could not now be farther from the continent than twenty or thirty +leagues at most; and perhaps not much less, as we neither had +soundings nor any other signs of land. Dr Halley, however, in his +voyage, published by Mr Dalrymple, tells us,[85] that "he made no +more than one hundred and two miles, meridian distance, from the +island [Fernando de Noronha] to the coast of Brazil;" and seems to +think that "currents could not be the whole cause" of his making so +little. But I rather think that he was mistaken, and that the +currents had hurried him far to the westward of his intended course. +This was, in some measure, confirmed by our own observations; for we +had found, during three or four days preceding the 8th, that the +currents set to the westward; and, during the last twenty-four hours, +it had set strong to the northward, as we experienced a difference of +twenty-nine miles between our observed latitude and that by dead +reckoning. Upon the whole, till some better astronomical observations +are made on shore on the eastern coast of Brazil, I shall conclude +that its longitude is thirty-five degrees and a half, or thirty-six +degrees W., at most.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 85: Page 11.]</blockquote> + +<p>We proceeded on our voyage, without meeting with any thing of +note, till the 6th of October. Being then in the latitude of 35° +15' S., longitude 7° 45' W., we met with light airs and calms by +turns, for three days successively. We had, for some days before, +seen albatrosses, pintadoes, and other petrels; and here we saw three +penguins, which occasioned us to sound; but we found no ground with a +line of one hundred and fifty fathoms. We put a boat in the water, +and shot a few birds; one of which was a black petrel, about the size +of a crow, and, except as to the bill and feet, very like one. It had +a few white feathers under the throat; and the under-side of the +quill-feathers were of an ash-colour. All the other feathers were jet +black, as also the bill and legs.</p> + +<p>On the 8th, in the evening, one of those birds which sailors call +noddies, settled on our rigging, and was caught. It was something +larger than an English black-bird, and nearly as black, except the +upper part of the head, which was white, looking as if it were +powdered; the whitest feathers growing out from the base of the upper +bill, from which they gradually assumed a darker colour, to about the +middle of the upper part of the neck, where the white shade was lost +in the black, without being divided by any line. It was web-footed; +had black legs and a black bill, which was long, and not unlike that +of a curlew. It is said these birds never fly far from land. We knew +of none nearer the station we were in, than Gough's or Richmond +Island, from which our distance could not be less than one hundred +leagues. But it must be observed that the Atlantic Ocean, to the +southward of this latitude, has been but little frequented; so that +there may be more islands there than we are acquainted with.</p> + +<p>We frequently, in the night, saw those luminous marine animals +mentioned and described in my first voyage. Some of them seemed to be +considerably larger than any I had before met with; and sometimes +they were so numerous, that hundreds were visible at the same +moment.</p> + +<p>This calm weather was succeeded by a fresh gale from the N.W., +which lasted two days. Then we had again variable light airs for +about twenty-four hours; when the N.W. wind returned, and blew with +such strength, that on the 17th we had sight of the Cape of Good +Hope; and the next day anchored in Table Bay, in four fathoms water, +with the church bearing S.W. 1/4 S., and Green Point N.W. 1/4 W.</p> + +<p>As soon as we had received the usual visit from the master +attendant and the surgeon, I sent an officer to wait on Baron +Plettenberg, the governor; and, on his return, saluted the garrison +with thirteen guns, which compliment was returned with the same +number.</p> + +<p>We found in the bay two French East India ships; the one outward, +and the other homeward bound. And two or three days before our +arrival, another homeward-bound ship of the same nation had parted +from her cable, and been driven on shore at the head of the bay, +where she was lost. The crew were saved; but the greatest part of the +cargo shared the same fate with the ship, or (which amounted to the +same) was plundered and stolen by the inhabitants, either out of the +ship, or as it was driven or carried on shore. This is the account +the French officers gave to me; and the Dutch themselves could not +deny the fact. But, by way of excusing themselves from being guilty +of a crime disgraceful to every civilized state, they endeavoured to +lay the whole blame on the French captain, for not applying in time +for a guard.</p> + +<p>As soon as we had saluted, I went on shore, accompanied by some of +my officers, and waited on the Governor, the Lieutenant-Governor, the +Fiscal, and the Commander of the troops. These gentlemen received me +with the greatest civility; and the Governor, in particular, promised +me every assistance that the place afforded. At the same time I +obtained his leave to set up our observatory on any spot I should +think most convenient; to pitch tents for the sail-makers and +coopers; and to bring the cattle on shore, to graze near our +encampment. Before I returned on board, I ordered soft bread, fresh +meat, and greens, to be provided, every day, for the ship's +company.</p> + +<p>On the 22d, we set up the tents and observatory, and began to send +the several articles out of the ship which I wanted on shore. This +could not be done sooner, as the militia of the place were exercising +on, or near, the ground which we were to occupy.</p> + +<p>The next day, we began to observe equal altitudes of the sun, in +order to ascertain the rate of the watch, or, which is the same +thing, to find whether it had altered its rate. These observations +were continued every day, whenever the weather would permit, till the +time of our departure drew near. But before this, the caulkers had +been set to work to caulk the ship; and I had concerted measures with +Messrs Brandt and Chiron, for supplying both ships with such +provisions as I should want. Bakers, likewise, had been ordered, +immediately after our arrival, to bake such a quantity of bread as I +thought would be requisite. As fast as the several articles destined +for the Resolution were got ready, they were carried on board.</p> + +<p>On the 26th, the French ship sailed for Europe, and by her we sent +letters to England. The next day, the Hampshire East India ship, from +Bencoolen, anchored in the bay, and saluted us with thirteen guns, +which we returned with eleven.</p> + +<p>Nothing remarkable happened till the evening of the 31st, when it +came on to blow excessively hard at S.E., and continued for three +days; during which time there was no communication between the ship +and the shore. The Resolution was the only ship in the bay that rode +out the gale without dragging her anchors. We felt its effects as +sensibly on shore. Our tents and observatory were torn to pieces; and +our astronomical quadrant narrowly escaped irreparable damage. On the +3d of November the storm ceased, and the next day we resumed our +different employments.</p> + +<p>On the 6th, the Hampshire India ship sailed for England. In her I +sent home an invalid, whom Captain Trimble was so obliging as to +receive on board. I was afterward sorry that I had not availed myself +of this opportunity to part with two or three more of my crew, who +were troubled with different complaints; but, at this time, there was +some hope of their health being re-established.</p> + +<p>In the morning of the 10th, the Discovery arrived in the bay. +Captain Clerke informed me that he had sailed from Plymouth on the +1st of August, and should have been with us here a week sooner, if +the gale of wind had not blown him off the coast. Upon the whole, he +was seven days longer in his passage from England than we had been. +He had the misfortune to lose one of his marines, by falling +overboard; but there had been no other mortality amongst his people, +and they now arrived well and healthy.</p> + +<p>Captain Clerke having represented to me that his ship was in want +of caulking; that no time might be lost in repairing this defect, +next day I sent all my workmen on board her, having already completed +this service on board the Resolution. I lent every other assistance +to the captain to expedite his supply of provisions and water, having +given him an order to receive on board as much of both articles as he +could conveniently stow. I now found that the bakers had failed in +baking the bread I had ordered for the Discovery. They pretended a +want of flour; but the truth was, they were doubtful of her coming, +and did not care to begin till they saw her at anchor in the bay.</p> + +<p>I have before made mention of our getting our cattle on shore. The +bull and two cows, with their calves, were sent to graze along with +some other cattle; but I was advised to keep our sheep, sixteen in +number, close to our tents, where they were penned up every night. +During the night preceding the 14th, some dogs having got in amongst +them, forced them out of the pen, killing four, and dispersing the +rest. Six of them were recovered the next day; but the two rams, and +two of the finest ewes in the whole flock, were amongst those +missing. Baron Plettenberg being now in the country, I applied to the +Lieutenant-Governor, Mr Hemmy, and to the Fiscal. Both these +gentlemen promised to use their endeavours for the recovery of the +lost sheep. The Dutch, we know, boasted that the police at the Cape +was so carefully executed, that it was hardly possible for a slave, +with all his cunning and knowledge of the country, to effectuate his +escape. Yet my sheep evaded all the vigilance of the Fiscal's +officers and people. However, after much trouble and expence, by +employing some of the meanest and lowest scoundrels in the place +(who, to use the phrase of the person who recommended this method to +me, would, for a ducatoon, cut their master's throat, burn the house +over his head, and bury him and the whole family in the ashes), I +recovered them all but the two ewes. Of these I never could bear the +least tidings; and I gave over all enquiry after them, when I was +told that, since I had got the two rams, I might think myself very +well off. One of these, however, was so much hurt by the dogs, that +there was reason to believe he would never recover.</p> + +<p>Mr Hemmy very obligingly offered to make up this loss, by giving +me a Spanish ram, out of some that he had sent for from Lisbon. But I +declined the offer, under a persuasion that it would answer my +purpose full as well, to take with me some of the Cape rams: the +event proved that I was under a mistake. This gentleman had taken +some pains to introduce European sheep at the Cape; but his +endeavours, as he told me, had been frustrated by the obstinacy of +the country people, who held their own breed in greater estimation, +on account of their large tails, of the fat of which, they sometimes +made more money than of the whole carcase besides; and who thought +that the wool of European sheep would, by no means, make up for their +deficiency in this respect.[86] Indeed, I have heard some sensible +men here make the same observation. And there seems to be foundation +for it. For, admitting that European sheep were to produce wool of +the same quality here as in Europe, which experience has shewn not to +be the case, the Dutch had not hands, at the Cape of Good Hope, to +spare for the manufacturing even their own clothing. It is certain +that, were it not for the continual importation of slaves, this +settlement would have been thinner of people than any other inhabited +part of the world.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 86: "The most remarkable thing in the Cape +sheep, is the length and thickness of their tails, which weigh from +fifteen to twenty pounds. The fat is not so tallowish as that of +European mutton, and the poorer sort use it for butter."--<i>Kolben's +Cape of Good Hope</i> (English translation), vol. ii. p. 65. De la +Caille, who finds every thing wrong in Kolben, says, the weight of +the tails of the Cape sheep is not above five or six +pounds.--<i>Voyage de la Caille</i>, p. 343. If the information given +to Captain Cook may be depended upon, it will prove, that, in this +instance at least, Kolben is unjustly accused of exaggeration.--D. + +<p>According to Mr Bingley and others, the tail of this sheep +sometimes weighs nearly one-third of the whole carcase, and consists +of a substance intermediate betwixt fat and marrow, which is often +used instead of butter. The fleeces are very fine, long and +beautiful; and, in Thibet, where the breed is also found, are worked +into shawls. A similar breed is said to be found in other countries, +as Barbary, Ethiopia, the vicinity of Aleppo, Persia, and Asiatic +Russia. Kolben's account is conceived to be perfectly +credible.--E.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>While the ships were getting ready for the prosecution of our +voyage, some of our officers made an excursion to take a view of the +neighbouring country. Mr Anderson, my surgeon, who was one of the +party, gave me the following relation of their proceedings.[87]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 87: In the Philosophical Transactions, vol. +lxvi. p. 268 to 319, is an Account of Three Journies from the Cape +Town into the Southern Parts of Africa, in 1772, 1773, and 1774; by +Mr Francis Masson, who had been sent from England for the discovery +of new plants, towards the improvement of the Royal Botanical Garden +at Kew. Much curious information is contained in Mr Masson's account +of these journies. M. de Pagés, who was at the Cape in 1773, +gives some remarks on the state of that settlement, and also the +particulars of his journey from False Bay to the Cape +Town.--<i>Voyage vers le Pole du Sud</i>, p. 17 to 32.--D. + +<p>It is unnecessary to apprise the reader, that our acquaintance +with the Cape has been most materially increased since the date of +this publication, and that several travellers have devoted their +labours to the illustration of its natural history.--E.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>"On the 16th, in the forenoon, I set out in a waggon, with five +more, to take a view of some part of the country. We crossed the +large plain that lies to the eastward of the town, which is entirely +a white sand, like that commonly found on beaches, and produces only +heath, and other small plants of various sorts. At five in the +afternoon we passed a large farm-house, with some corn-fields, and +pretty considerable vineyards, situated beyond the plain, near the +foot of some low hills, where the soil becomes worth cultivating. +Between six and seven we arrived at Stellenbosh, the colony next to +that of the Cape for its importance.</p> + +<p>"The village does not consist of more than thirty houses, and +stands at the foot of the range of lofty mountains, above twenty +miles to the eastward of the Cape Town. The houses are neat; and, +with the advantage of a rivulet which runs near, and the shelter of +some large oaks, planted at its first settling, forms what may be +called a rural prospect in this desert country. There are some +vineyards and orchards about the place, which, from their thriving +appearance, seem to indicate an excellent soil; though, perhaps, they +owe much to climate, as the air here has an uncommon serenity.</p> + +<p>"I employed the next day in searching for plants and insects about +Stellenbosh, but had little success. Few plants are in flower here at +this season, and insects but scarce. I examined the soil in several +places, and found it to consist of yellowish clay, mixed with a good +deal of sand. The sides of the low hills, which appear brown, seem to +be constituted of a sort of stone marl.</p> + +<p>"We left Stellenbosh next morning, and soon arrived at the house +we had passed on Saturday; the owner of which, Mr Cloeder, had sent +us an invitation the evening before to visit him. This gentleman +entertained us with the greatest hospitality, and in a manner very +different from what we expected. He received us with music, and a +band also played while we were at dinner; which, considering the +situation of the place, might be reckoned elegant. He shewed us his +wine-cellars, his orchards, and vineyards; all which, I must own, +inspired me with a wish to know in what manner these industrious +people could create such plenty, in a spot where, I believe, no other +European nation would have attempted to settle.</p> + +<p>"In the afternoon we crossed the country, and passed a few +plantations, one of which seemed very considerable, and was laid out +in a taste somewhat different from any other we saw. In the evening +we arrived at a farm-house, which is the first in the cultivated +tract called the Pearl. We had, at the same time, a view of +Drakenstein, the third colony of this country, which lies along by +the foot of the lofty hills already mentioned, and contains several +farms or plantations, not very extensive.</p> + +<p>"I went, on the 19th in the forenoon, in quest of plants and +insects, which I found almost as scarce as at Stellenbosh; but I met +with more shrubs or small trees, naturally produced, in the valleys, +than in any part of the country I had hitherto seen.</p> + +<p>"In the afternoon we went to see a stone of a remarkable size, +called by the inhabitants the Tower of Babylon, or the Pearl +Diamond.[88] It lies, or stands, upon the top of some low hills, at +the foot of which our farm-house was situated; and though the road to +it is neither very steep nor rugged, we were above an hour and a half +in walking to it. It is of an oblong shape, rounded on the top, and +lies nearly S. and N. The E. and W. sides are steep, and almost +perpendicular. The S. end is likewise steep, and its greatest height +is there; from whence it declines gently to the N. part, by which we +ascended to its top, and had an extensive view of the whole +country.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 88: In the Philosophical Transactions, vol. +lxviii, part i. p. 102, we have a letter from Mr Anderson to Sir John +Pringle, describing this remarkable stone. The account sent home from +the Cape, and read before the Royal Society, is much the same with +that now published, but rather fuller. In particular, he tells Sir +John, that he went to see it at Mr Masson's desire, who probably had +not had an opportunity of sufficiently examining it himself. In the +account of his journies above referred to, p. 270, he only says, +"there are two large solid rocks on the Perel Berg, each of which (he +believes) is more than a mile in circumference at the base, and +upwards of 200 feet high. Their surfaces are nearly smooth, without +chink or fissures; and they are found to be a species of granite, +different from that which composes the neighbouring mountains." + +<p>Mr Anderson having, with his letter to Sir John Pringle, also sent +home a specimen of the rock, it was examined by Sir William Hamilton, +whose opinion is, that "this singular, immense fragment of granite, +most probably has been raised by a volcanic explosion, or some such +cause." See his Letter to Sir John Pringle, annexed to Mr Anderson's, +in the Philosophical Transactions.--D.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>"Its circumference, I think, must be at least half a mile, as it +took us above half an hour to walk round it, including every +allowance for the bad road, and stopping a little. At its highest +part, which is the S. end, comparing it with a known object, it seems +to equal the dome of St Paul's church. It is one uninterrupted mass +of stone, if we except some fissures, or rather impressions, not +above three or four feet deep, and a vein which runs across near its +N. end. It is of that sort of stone called, by mineralogists, +<i>Saxum conglutinatum</i>, and consists chiefly of pieces of coarse +quartz and glimmer, held together by a clayey cement. But the vein +which crosses it, though of the same materials, is much compacter. +This vein is not above a foot broad or thick; and its surface is cut +into little squares or oblongs, disposed obliquely, which makes it +look like the remains of some artificial work. But I could not +observe whether it penetrated far into the large rock, or was only +superficial. In descending, we found at its foot a very rich black +mould; and on the sides of the hills some trees of a considerable +size, natives of the place, which are a species of +<i>olea</i>.[89]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 89: "It is strange that neither Kolben nor de +la Caille should have thought the Tower of Babylon worthy of a +particular description. The former [vol. ii. p. 52, 53, English +translation] only mentions it as a high mountain. The latter contents +himself with telling us, that it is a very low hillock, <i>un tres +bas monticule. Voyage de la Caille</i>, p. 341. We are much obliged +to Mr Anderson for his very accurate account of this remarkable rock, +which agrees with Mr Sonnerat's, who was at the Cape of Good Hope so +late as 1781. His words are, "La Montagne de la <i>Perle</i>, merite +d'être observée. C'est un des plus hautes des environs +du Cap. Elle n'est composée que d'un seul bloc de granit +crevassé dans plusieurs endroits." <i>Voyage aux Indes</i>, +tom. ii. p. 91. + +<p>Mr Sonnerat tells us, that Mr Gordon, commander of the troops at +the Cape, had lately made three journies up the country, from which, +when he publishes his journal, we may expect much curious +information.--D.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>"In the morning of the 20th we set out from the Pearl; and going a +different road from that by which we came, passed through a country +wholly uncultivated, till we got to the Tiger hills, when some +tolerable corn-fields appeared. At noon we stopped in a hollow for +refreshment, but, in walking about here, were plagued with a vast +number of musquitoes or sand-flies, which were the first I saw in the +country. In the afternoon we set out again, and in the evening +arrived at the Cape Town, tired with the jolting waggon."</p> + +<p>On the 23d we got on board the observatory, clock, etc. By a mean +of the several results of the equal altitudes of the sun, taken with +the astronomical quadrant, the astronomical clock was found to lose +on sidereal time, 1' 8",368 each day. The pendulum was kept at the +same length as at Greenwich, where the daily loss of the clock on +sidereal time was 4".</p> + +<p>The watch, by the mean of the results of fifteen days +observations, was found to be losing 2",261, on mean time, each day, +which is 1",052 more than at Greenwich; and on the 21st, at noon, she +was too slow for mean time by 1'h 20' 57",66. From this 6' 48",956 is +to be subtracted, for what she was too slow on the 11th of June at +Greenwich, and her daily rate since; and the remainder, viz. 1° +14' 8",704, or 18° 32' 10", will be the longitude of the Cape +Town by the watch. Its true longitude, as found by Messrs Masson and +Dixon, is 18° 23' 15". As our observations were made about half a +mile to the E. of theirs, the error of the watch in longitude is no +more than 8' 25". Hence we have reason to conclude, that she had gone +well all the way from England, and that the longitude, thus given, +may be nearer the truth than any other.</p> + +<p>If this be admitted, it will, in a great measure, enable me to +find the direction and strength of the currents we met with on this +passage from England. For, by comparing the latitude and longitude by +dead reckoning with those by observation and the watch, we shall, +from time to time, have, very accurately, the error of the ship's +reckoning, be the cause what it will. But as all imaginable care was +taken in heaving, and keeping the log, and every necessary allowance +made for lee-way, heave of the sea, and other such circumstances, I +cannot attribute those errors that did happen to any other cause but +currents; but more particularly when the error was constantly the +same way for several days successively.</p> + +<p>On the contrary, if we find the ship a-head of the reckoning on +one day, and a-stern of it on another, we have reason to believe that +such errors are owing to accidental causes, and not to currents. This +seems to have been the case in our passage between England and +Teneriffe. But, from the time of our leaving that island, till the +15th of August, being then in the latitude of 12° N. and +longitude 24° W. the ship was carried 1° 20' of longitude to +the westward of her reckoning. At this station the currents took a +contrary direction, and set to E.S.E. at the rate of twelve or +fourteen miles a day, or twenty-four hours, till we arrived into the +latitude of 5° N. and longitude of 20° W.; which was our most +easterly situation after leaving the Cape de Verde Islands till we +got to the southward. For in this situation the wind came southerly, +and we tacked and stretched to the westward; and, for two or three +days, could not find that our reckoning was affected by any current. +So that I judged we were between the current that generally, if not +constantly, sets to the east upon the coast of Guinea, and that which +sets to the west toward the coast of Brazil. This westerly current +was not considerable till we got into 2° N. and 25° W. From +this station to 3° S. and 30° W. the ship, in the space of +four days, was carried 115 miles in the direction of S.W. by W. +beyond her reckoning; an error by far too great to have any other +cause but a strong current running in the same direction. Nor did its +strength abate here; but its course was afterward more westerly, and +to the N. of W., and off Cape Augustine N. as I have already +mentioned. But this northerly current did not exist at twenty or +thirty leagues to the southward of that Cape, nor any other, that I +could perceive, in the remaining part of the passage. The little +difference we afterward found between the reckoning and observations, +might very well happen without the assistance of currents, as will +appear by the table of Day's Works.[90]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 90: The curious reader will find some +interesting, though not decisive, remarks concerning the currents of +the Atlantic Ocean in Clerke's Prog. of Mar. Disc. vol. i. p. +358.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the accounts of my last voyage, I remarked, that the currents +one meets with in his passage generally balance each other. It +happened so then, because we crossed the Line about 20° more to +the eastward than we did now; so that we were, of consequence, longer +under the influence of the easterly current, which made up for the +westerly one. And this, I apprehend, will generally be the case, if +you cross the Line 10° or 15° to the E. of the meridian of St +Jago.</p> + +<p>From these remarks I shall draw the following conclusion, that +after passing the Cape de Verde Islands, if you do not make above +4° or 5° easting, and cross the Line in, or to the westward +of, the meridian of St Jago, you may expect to find your ship 3° +or 4° to the westward of her reckoning by the time you get into +the latitude of 10° S. If, on the other hand, you keep well to +the E. and cross the Line 15° or 20° to the E. of St Jago, +you will be then as much to the E. of your reckoning; and the more +you keep to the eastward, the greater will be your error, as has been +experienced by some India ships, whose people have found themselves +close upon the coast of Angola, when they thought its distance was +above 200 leagues.</p> + +<p>During the whole of our passage from England, no opportunity was +omitted of observing, with all the attention and accuracy that +circumstances would permit, the variation of the compass, which I +have inserted in a table, with the latitude and longitude of the ship +at the time of observation. As the longitude may be depended upon, to +a quarter or half a degree at most, this table will be of use to +those navigators who correct their reckoning by the variation. It +will also enable Mr Dun to correct his new Variation Chart, a thing +very much wanted.</p> + +<p>It seems strange to me, that the advocates for the variation +should not agree amongst themselves. We find one[91] of them telling +us, as I have already observed, "that with 8° W. variation, or +any thing above that, you may venture to sail by the Cape de Verde +Islands by night or day, being well assured, with that variation, +that you are to the eastward of them." Another, in his chart,[92] +lays down this variation ninety leagues to the westward of them. Such +a disagreement as this, is a strong proof of the uncertainty of both. +However, I have no doubt the former found here, as well as in other +places, the variation he mentions. But he should have considered, +that at sea, nay even on land, the results of the most accurate +observations will not always be the same. Different compasses will +give different variations; and even the same compass will differ from +itself two degrees, without our being able to discover, much less to +remove, the cause.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 91: Nichelson.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 92: Mr Dun.]</blockquote> + +<p>Whoever imagines he can find the variation within a degree, will +very often see himself much deceived. For, besides the imperfection +which may be in the construction of the instrument, or in the power +of the needle, it is certain that the motion of the ship, or +attraction of the iron-work, or some other cause not yet discovered, +will frequently occasion far greater errors than this. That the +variation may be found, with a share of accuracy more than sufficient +to determine the ship's course, is allowed; but that it can be found +so exactly as to fix the longitude within a degree, or sixty miles, I +absolutely deny.[93]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 93: Few readers, it is presumed, require to be +informed, that the mode of endeavouring to ascertain the longitude by +the variation of the compass is no longer in use. In a work already +referred to, Clerke's Prog. of Mar. Disc., a singular enough +communication is inserted respecting the effect of tallow on the +compass. It is subscribed by Lieutenant Mason of the marines; but +whether the experiments it relates have been repeated by others, or +if the inference it maintains has been otherwise confirmed, the +writer has yet to learn. He thought it right, however, to notice it, +as the more extensively hints are spread which concern the +advancement of useful discovery, the greater chance we have of +correcting errors, and perfecting science, The same reason justifies +his remarking, that the most important observations respecting the +variation of the compass made of late years, are those of Captain +Flinders, as to the effect of the ship's course upon it. The reader +will find them in the appendix to the account of his voyage lately +published, 2d volume. Similar observations have still more recently +been made by an officer on board his majesty's ship Sibyl, while in +the North Sea protecting our Greenland fishery. They form an appendix +to the Account of a Voyage to Spitzbergen, by Mr John Laing, Surgeon, +published at Edinburgh, 1815. Of their importance and accuracy, +notwithstanding the small scale on which they were made, and the +meagre manner in which they have been communicated, it is impossible +for a moment to doubt. The concluding remark is entitled to +considerable regard.--"After a more enlarged series of observations +shall have been taken, and after the attention of astronomers is +directed to this fact, one may confidently expect a most important +improvement in the science of navigation." The value of the discovery +alluded to, will at once appear from what is said in the way of +enquiry as to similar observations to those made in the North Sea +applying to ships coming from the Baltic, viz. that if so, "they most +effectually account for ships getting down on the coast of Holland, +when they suppose themselves well over in Mid-channel; and therefore +prove the loss of so many of our brave tars when coming from that +sea."--P. 163. As a paper, containing Captain Flinders's observations +on this subject, had been sent to the officer who makes this +communication, by the Lords of the Admiralty, it is reasonable to +expect that official agency is engaged to benefit the world by +maturing he discovery.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION IV.</p> + +<p><i>The two Ships leave the Cape of Good Hope.--Two Islands, named +Prince Edwards, seen, and their Appearance described.--Kerguelen's +Land visited.--Arrival in Christmas Harbour.--Occurrences +there.--Description of it</i>.</p> + +<p>After the disaster which happened to our sheep, it may be well +supposed that I did not trust those that remained long on shore, but +got them and the other cattle on board as fast as possible. I also +added to my original stock by purchasing two young bulls, two +heifers, two young stone-horses, two mares, two rams, several ewes +and goats, and some rabbits and poultry.</p> + +<p>All of them were intended for New Zealand, Otaheite, and the +neighbouring islands, or any other places in the course of our +voyage, where there might be a prospect that the leaving any of them +would be useful to posterity.</p> + +<p>Toward the latter end of November the caulkers had finished their +work on board the Discovery, and she had received all her provisions +and water. Of the former, both ships had a sufficient supply for two +years and upward. And every other article we could think of, +necessary for such a voyage, that could be had at the Cape, was +procured; neither knowing when, nor where, we might come to a place +where we could furnish ourselves so well.</p> + +<p>Having given Captain Clerke a copy of my instructions, and an +order directing him how to proceed in case of separation, in the +morning of the 30th we repaired on board. At five in the afternoon a +breeze sprung up at S.E. with which we weighed, and stood out of the +bay. At nine it fell calm, and we anchored between Penguin Island and +the east shore, where we lay till three o'clock next morning. We then +weighed and put to sea, with a light breeze at S., but did not get +clear of the land till the morning of the 3d, when, with a fresh gale +at W.N.W. we stood to the S.E. to get more into the way of these +winds.</p> + +<p>On the 5th a sudden squall of wind carried away the Resolution's +mizen top-mast. Having another to replace it, the loss was not felt, +especially as it was a bad stick, and had often complained. On the +6th, in the evening, being then in the latitude of 39° 14' S. and +in the longitude of 25° 56' E., we passed through several small +spots of water of a reddish colour. Some of this was taken up, and it +was found to abound with a small animal, which the microscope +discovered to be like a cray-fish, of a reddish hue.</p> + +<p>We continued our course to the S.E. with a very strong gale from +the westward, followed by a mountainous sea, which made the ship roll +and tumble exceedingly, and gave us a great deal of trouble to +preserve the cattle we had on board. Notwithstanding all our care, +several goats, especially the males, died, and some sheep. This +misfortune was, in a great measure, owing to the cold, which we now +began most sensibly to feel.</p> + +<p>On the 12th, at noon, we saw land extending from S.E. by S. to +S.E. by E. Upon a nearer approach we found it to be two islands. That +which lies most to the south, and is also the largest, I judged to be +about fifteen leagues in circuit, and to be in the latitude of +46° 53' S. and in the longitude of 37° 46' E. The most +northerly one is about nine leagues in circuit, and lies in the +latitude of 46° 40' S. and in 38° 8' E. longitude. The +distance from the one to the other is about five leagues.</p> + +<p>We passed through this channel at equal distance from both +islands; and could not discover, with the assistance of our best +glasses, either tree or shrub on either of them. They seemed to have +a rocky and bold shore; and, excepting the S.E. parts, where the land +is rather low and flat, a surface composed of barren mountains, which +rise to a considerable height, and whose summits and sides were +covered with snow, which in many places seemed to be of a +considerable depth. The S.E. parts had a much greater quantity on +them than the rest, owing, probably, to the sun acting for a less +space of time on these than on the N. and N.W. parts. The ground, +where it was not hid by the snow, from the various shades it +exhibited, may be supposed to be covered with moss, or perhaps such a +coarse grass as is found in some parts of Falkland's Islands. On the +N. side of each of the islands is a detached rock; that near the S. +island is shaped like a tower, and seemed to be at some distance from +the shore. As we passed along, a quantity of seaweed was seen, and +the colour of the water indicated soundings. But there was no +appearance of an inlet, unless near the rock just mentioned; and +that, from its smallness, did not promise a good anchoring-place.</p> + +<p>These two islands, as also four others which lie from nine to +twelve degrees of longitude more to the E. and nearly in the same +latitude, were discovered, as I have mentioned in my late voyage,[94] +by Captains Marion du Fresne and Crozet, French navigators, in +January, 1772, on their passage in two ships from the Cape of Good +Hope to the Philippine Islands. As they have no names in the French +chart of the southern hemisphere, which Captain Grozet communicated +to me in 1775,[95] I shall distinguish the two we now saw by calling +them Prince Edward's Islands, after his majesty's fourth son; and the +other four, by the name of Marion's and Crozet's Islands, to +commemorate their discoverers.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 94: Captain Cook's second voyage. These islands +are said to be in the latitude of 48° S.; that is, 2° farther +S. than what here appears to be their real +position.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 95: See Cook's voyage, as above. Dr. Forster, +in his Observations made during that Voyage, p. 30, gives us this +description of the chart then communicated by Monsieur Crozet; that +it was "published under the patronage of the Duke de Croye, by Robert +de Vaugondy." Captain Cook tells us, lower in this chapter, that it +was published in 1773.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>We had now, for the most part, strong gales between the N. and W., +and but very indifferent weather; not better, indeed, than we +generally have in England in the very depth of winter, though it was +now the middle of summer in this hemisphere. Not discouraged, +however, by this, after leaving Prince Edward's Islands, I shaped our +course to pass to the southward of the others, that I might get into +the latitude of the land discovered by Monsieur de Kerguelen.</p> + +<p>I had applied to the Chevalier de Borda whom, as I have mentioned, +I found at Teneriffe, requesting, that if he knew any thing of the +island discovered by Monsieur de Kerguelen, between the Cape of Good +Hope and New Holland, he would be so obliging as to communicate it to +me. Accordingly, just before we sailed from Santa Cruz Bay, he sent +me the following account of it, viz. "That the pilot of the Boussole, +who was in the voyage with Monsieur de Kerguelen, had given him the +latitude and longitude of a little island, which Monsieur de +Kerguelen called the Isle of Rendezvous, and which lies not far from +the great island which he saw. Latitude of the little isle, by seven +observations, 48° 26' S.; longitude, by seven observations of the +distance of the sun and moon, 64° 57' E. from Paris," I was very +sorry I had not sooner known that there was on board the frigate at +Teneriffe, an officer who had been with Monsieur de Kerguelen, +especially the pilot; because from him I might have obtained more +interesting information about this land than the situation alone, of +which I was not before entirely ignorant.[96]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 96: Captain Cook's proceedings, as related in +the remaining part of this chapter, and in the next, being upon a +coast newly discovered by the French, it could not but be an object +of his attention to trace the footsteps of the original explorers. +But no superiority of professional skill, nor diligence in exerting +it, could possibly qualify him to do this successfully, without +possessing, at the same time, full and authentic intelligence of all +that had been performed here by his predecessors in the discovery. +But that he was not so fortunate as to be thus sufficiently +instructed, will appear from the following facts, which the reader is +requested to attend to, before he proceeds to the perusal of this +part of the journal. + +<p>How very little was known, with any precision, about the +operations of Kerguelen, when Captain Cook sailed in 1776, may be +inferred from the following paragraph of his instructions:--"You are +to proceed in search of some islands said to have been lately seen by +the French in the latitude of 48° S., and in the meridian of the +Mauritius." This was, barely, the amount of the very indefinite and +imperfect information, which Captain Cook himself had received from +Baron Plettenberg at the Cape of Good Hope, in November 1772; in the +beginning of which year Kerguelen's first voyage had taken place.</p> + +<p>The captain, on his return homeward, in March 1775, heard, a +second time, something about this French discovery at the Cape, where +he met with Monsieur Crozet, who very obligingly communicated to him +a chart of the southern hemisphere, wherein were delineated not only +his own discoveries, but also that of Captain Kerguelen. But what +little information that chart could convey, was still necessarily +confined to the operations of the first voyage; the chart here +referred to, having been published in France in 1773, that is, before +any intelligence could possibly be conveyed from the southern +hemisphere of the result of Kerguelen's second visit to this new +land, which, we now know, happened towards the close of the same +year.</p> + +<p>Of these latter operations, the only account (if that can be +called an account, which conveys no particular information) received +by Captain Cook from Monsieur Crozet, was, that a later voyage had +been undertaken by the French, under the command of Captain +Kerguelen, which had ended much to the disgrace of that +commander.</p> + +<p>What Crozet had not communicated to our author, and what we are +sure, from a variety of circumstances, he had never heard of from any +other quarter, he missed an opportunity of learning at Teneriffe. He +expressed his being sorry, as we have just read, that he did not know +sooner that there was on board the frigate an officer who had been +with Kerguelen, as he might have obtained from him more interesting +information about this land, than its situation. And, indeed, if he +had conversed with that officer, he might have obtained information +more interesting than he was aware of; he might have learnt that +Kerguelen had actually visited this southern land a second time, and +that the little isle of which he then received the name and position +from the Chevalier de Borda, was a discovery of this later voyage. +But the account conveyed to him, being, as the reader will observe, +unaccompanied with any date, or other distinguishing circumstance, he +left Teneriffe, and arrived on the coasts of Kerguelen's Land, under +a full persuasion that it had been visited only once before. And, +even with regard to the operations of that first voyage, he had +nothing to guide him, but the very scanty materials afforded to him +by Baron Plettenberg and Monsieur Crozet.</p> + +<p>The truth is, the French seem, for some reason or other, not +surely founded on the importance of Kerguelen's discovery, to have +been very shy of publishing a full and distinct account of it. No +such account had been published while Captain Cook lived. Nay, even +after the return of his ships in 1780, the gentleman who obligingly +lent his assistance to give a view of the prior observations of the +French, and to connect them on the same chart with those of our +author, though his assiduity in procuring geographical information +can be equalled only by his readiness in communicating it, had not, +it should seem, been able to procure any materials for that purpose, +but such as mark the operations of the first French voyage; and even +for these, he was indebted to a MS. drawing.</p> + +<p>But this veil of unnecessary secrecy is at length drawn aside. +Kerguelen himself has published the journal of his proceedings in two +successive voyages, in the years 1772 and 1773; and has annexed to +his narrative a chart of the coasts of this land, as far as he had +explored them in both voyages. Monsieur de Pagès, also, much +about the same time, favoured us with another account of the second +voyage, in some respects fuller than Kerguelen's own, on board whose +ship he was then an officer.</p> + +<p>From these sources of authentic information, we are enabled to +draw every necessary material to correct what is erroneous, and to +illustrate what, otherwise, would have remained obscure, in this part +of Captain Cook's journal. We shall take occasion to do this in +separate notes on the passages as they occur, and conclude this +tedious, but, it is hoped, not unnecessary, detail of facts, with one +general remark, fully expressive of the disadvantages our author +laboured under. He never saw that part of the coast upon which the +French had been in 1772; and he never knew that they had been upon +another part of it in 1773, which was the very scene of his own +operations. Consequently, what he knew of the former voyage, as +delineated upon Crozet's chart, only served to perplex and mislead +his judgment; and his total ignorance of the latter, put it out of +his power to compare his own observations with those then made by +Kerguelen; though we, who are better instructed, can do this, by +tracing the plainest marks of coincidence and agreement.--D.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>My instructions directing me to examine it, with a view to +discover a good harbour, I proceeded in the search; and on the 16th, +being then in the latitude of 48° 45', and in the longitude of +52° E., we saw penguins and divers, and rock-weed floating in the +sea. We continued to meet with more or less of these every day, as we +proceeded to the eastward; and on the 21st, in the latitude of +48° 27' S., and in the longitude of 65° E., a very large seal +was seen. We had now much foggy weather, and as we expected to fall +in with the land every hour, our navigation became both tedious and +dangerous.</p> + +<p>At length, on the 24th, at six o'clock in the morning, as we were +steering to the eastward, the fog clearing away a little, we saw +land,[97] bearing S.S.E., which, upon a nearer approach, we found to +be an island of considerable height, and about three leagues in +circuit.[98] Soon after, we saw another of the same magnitude, one +league to the eastward;[99] and between these two, in the direction +of S.E., some smaller ones.[100] In the direction of S. by E. 1/2 E., +from the E. end of the first island, a third[101] high island was +seen. At times, as the fog broke away, we had the appearance of land +over the small islands; and I had thoughts of steering for it, by +running in between them. But, on drawing nearer, I found this would +be a dangerous attempt, while the weather continued foggy. For if +there should be no passage, or if we should meet with any sudden +danger, it would have been impossible for us to get off; the wind +being right a-stern, and a prodigious sea running, that broke on all +the shores in a frightful surf. At the same time, seeing another +island in the N.E. direction, and not knowing but that their might be +more, I judged it prudent to haul off, and wait for clearer weather, +lest we should get entangled amongst unknown lands in a thick +fog.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 97: Captain Cook was not the original +discoverer of these small islands which he now fell in with. It is +certain that they had been seen and named by Kerguelen, on his second +voyage, in December 1773. Their position, relatively to each other, +and to the adjoining coasts of the greater land, bears a striking +resemblance to Kerguelen's delineation of them; whose chart, however, +the public may be assured, was unknown in England till after that +accompanying the account of this third voyage had been +engraved.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 98: This is the isle to which Kerguelen gave +the name of Croy, or Crouy. Besides delineating it upon his chart, he +has added a particular view of it, exactly corresponding with Captain +Cook's account of its being of considerable height.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 99: Kerguelen called this Isle Rolland, after +the name of his own ship. There is also a particular view of it on +the French chart.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 100: The observations of the French and English +navigators agree exactly as to the position of these smaller +isles.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 101: The situation of Kerguelen's Isle de +Clugny, as marked on this chart, shews it to be the third high island +seen by Captain Cook.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>We did but just weather the island last mentioned. It is a high +round rock, which was named Bligh's Cap. Perhaps this is the same +that Monsieur de Kerguelen called the Isle of Rendezvous;[102] but I +know nothing that can rendezvous at it, but fowls of the air; for it +is certainly inaccessible to every other animal.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 102: This isle, or rock, was the single point +about which Captain Cook had received the least information at +Teneriffe; and we may observe how sagacious he was in tracing it. +What he could only speak of as probable, a comparison of his chart +with that lately published by Kerguelen, proves to be certain; and if +he had even read and copied what his predecessor in the discovery +says of it, he could scarcely have varied his account of its shape. +Kerguelen's words are, "Isle de Reunion, qui n'est qu'une Roche, nous +servoit de Rendezvous, ou de point de ralliement; et ressemble +à un coin de mire."--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>At eleven o'clock the weather began to clear up, and we +immediately tacked, and steered in for the land. At noon, we had a +pretty good observation, which enabled us to determine the latitude +of Bligh's Cap, which is the northernmost island, to be 48° 29' +S., and its longitude 68° 40' E.'[103] We passed it at three +o'clock, standing to the S.S.E., with a fresh gale at W.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 103: The French and English agree very nearly +(as might be expected) in their accounts of the latitude of this +island; but the observations by which they fix its longitude vary +considerably. The pilot at Teneriffe made it only 64° 57' E. from +Paris, which is about 67° 16' E. from London; or 1° 24' more +westerly than Captain Cook's observations fix it. Monsieur de +Pagès says it is 66° 47' E. from Paris, that is, 69° +6' E. from London, or twenty-six miles more easterly than it is +placed by Captain Cook. Kerguelen himself only says that it is about +68° of E. longitude, <i>par</i> 68° <i>de +longitude</i>.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>Soon after we saw the land, of which we had a faint view in the +morning; and at four o'clock it extended from S.E. 1/2 E., to S.W. by +S., distant about four miles. The left extreme, which I judged to be +the northern point of this land, called, in the French chart of the +southern hemisphere, Cape St Louis,[104] terminated in a +perpendicular rock of a considerable height; and the right one (near +which is a detached rock) in a high indented point.[105] From this +point the coast seemed to turn short round to the southward, for we +could see no land to the westward of the direction in which it now +bore to us, but the islands we had observed in the morning; the most +southerly[106] of them lying nearly W. from the point, about two or +three leagues distant.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 104: Hitherto, we have only had occasion to +supply defects, owing to Captain Cook's entire ignorance of +Kerguelen's second voyage in 1773; we must now correct errors, owing +to his very limited knowledge of the operations of the first voyage +in 1772. The chart of the southern hemisphere, his only guide, having +given him, as he tells us, the name of Cape St Louis (or Cape Louis) +as the most northerly promontory then seen by the French; and his own +observations now satisfying him that no part of the main land +stretched farther north than the left extreme now before him; from +this supposed similarity of situation, he judged that his own +perpendicular rock must be the Cape Louis of the first discoverers. +By looking upon the chart originally published with this voyage, we +shall find Cape Louis lying upon a different part of the coast; and +by comparing this chart with that published by Kerguelen, it will +appear, in the clearest manner, that the northern point now described +by Captain Cook, is the very same to which the French have given the +name of Cape Francois--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 105: This right extreme of the coast, as it now +shewed itself to Captain Cook, seems to be what is represented on +Kerguelen's chart under the name of Cape Aubert. It may be proper to +observe here, that all that extent of coast lying between Cape Louis +and Cape Francois, of which the French saw very little during their +first visit in 1772, and may be called the N.W. side of this land, +they had it in their power to trace the position of in 1773, and have +assigned names to some of its bays, rivers, and promontories, upon +their chart.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 106: Kerguelen's Isle de +Clugny.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>About the middle of the land there appeared to be an inlet, for +which we steered; but, on approaching, found it was a bending in the +coast, and therefore bore up, to go round Cape St Louis.[107] Soon +after, land opened off the cape, in the direction of S. 53° E., +and appeared to be a point at a considerable distance; for the +trending of the coast from the cape was more southerly. We also saw +several rocks and islands to the eastward of the above directions, +the most distant of which was about seven leagues from the cape, +bearing S. 88° E.[108] We had no sooner got off the cape, than we +observed the coast, to the southward, to be much indented by +projecting points and bays; so that we now made sure of soon finding +a good harbour. Accordingly, we had not run a mile farther, before we +discovered one behind the cape, into which we began to ply; but after +making one board, it fell calm, and we anchored at the entrance in +forty-five fathoms water, the bottom black sand; as did the Discovery +soon after. I immediately dispatched Mr Bligh, the master, in a boat +to sound the harbour; who, on his return, reported it to be safe and +commodious, with good anchorage in every part; and great plenty of +fresh-water, seals, penguins, and other birds on the shore; but not a +stick of wood. While we lay at anchor, we observed that the flood +tide came from the S.E., running two knots, at least, in an hour.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 107: Cape François, as already +observed.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 108: The observations of the French, round Cape +François, remarkably coincide with Captain Cook's in this +paragraph; and the rocks and islands here mentioned by him, also +appear upon their chart.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>At day-break, in the morning of the 25th, we weighed with a gentle +breeze at W,; and having wrought into the harbour, to within a +quarter of a mile of the sandy beach at its head, we anchored in +eight fathoms water, the bottom a fine dark sand. The Discovery did +not get in till two o'clock in the afternoon, when Captain Clerke +informed me, that he had narrowly escaped being driven on the S. +point of the harbour, his anchor having started before they had time +to shorten in the cable. This obliged them to set sail, and drag the +anchor after them, till they had room to heave it up, and then they +found one of its palms was broken off.</p> + +<p>As soon as we had anchored, I ordered all the boats to be hoisted +out, the ship to be moored with a kedge-anchor, and the water-casks +to be got ready to send on shore. In the mean time I landed, to look +for the most convenient spot where they might be filled, and to see +what else the place afforded.</p> + +<p>I found the shore, in a manner, covered with penguins and other +birds, and seals. These latter were not numerous, but so insensible +of fear, (which plainly indicated that they were unaccustomed to such +visitors,) that we killed as many as we chose, for the sake of their +fat, or blubber, to make oil for our lamps, and other uses. Fresh +water was in no less plenty than were birds; for every gully afforded +a large stream. But not a single tree, or shrub, nor the least sign +of any, was to be discovered, and but very little herbage of any +sort. The appearances, as we sailed into the harbour, had flattered +us with the hope of meeting with something considerable growing here, +as we observed the sides of many of the hills to be of a lively +green. But I now found that this was occasioned by a single plant, +which, with the other natural productions, shall be described in +another place. Before I returned to my ship, I ascended the first +ridge of rocks, which rise in a kind of amphitheatre above one +another. I was in hopes, by this means, of obtaining a view of the +country; but before I reached the top, there came on so thick a fog, +that I could hardly find my way down again. In the evening, we hauled +the seine at the head of the harbour, but caught only half a dozen +small fish. We had no better success next day, when we tried with +hook and line. So that our only resource here, for fresh provisions, +were birds, of which there was an inexhaustible store.</p> + +<p>The morning of the 26th proved foggy, with rain. However, we went +to work to fill water, and to cut grass for our cattle, which we +found in small spots near the head of the harbour. The rain which +fell swelled all the rivulets to such a degree, that the sides of the +hills, bounding the harbour, seemed to be covered with a sheet of +water. For the rain, as it fell, run into the fissures and crags of +the rocks that composed the interior parts of the hills, and was +precipitated down their sides in prodigious torrents.</p> + +<p>The people having wrought hard the two preceding days, and nearly +completed our water, which we filled from a brook at the left corner +of the beach, I allowed them the 27th as a day of rest, to celebrate +Christmas. Upon this indulgence, many of them went on shore, and made +excursions, in different directions, into the country, which they +found barren and desolate in the highest degree. In the evening, one +of them brought to me a quart bottle which he had found, fastened +with some wire to a projecting rock on the north side of the harbour. +This bottle contained a piece of parchment, on which was written the +following inscription:</p> + +<pre> + Ludovico XV. Galliarum + rege, et d.[109] de Boynes + regi a Secretis ad res + maritimas annis 1772 et + 1773. +</pre> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 109: The (d.), no doubt, is a contraction of +the word <i>Domino</i>. The French secretary of the marine was then +Monsieur de Boynes.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>From this inscription, it is clear, that we were not the first +Europeans who had been in this harbour. I supposed it to be left by +Monsieur de Boisguehenneu, who went on shore in a boat on the 13th of +February, 1772, the same day that Monsieur de Kerguelen discovered +this land, as appears by a note in the French chart of the southern +hemisphere, published the following year.[110]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 110: On perusing this paragraph of the journal, +it will be natural to ask, How could Monsieur de Boisguehenneu, in +the beginning of 1772, leave an inscription, which, upon the very +face of it, commemorates a transaction of the following year? Captain +Cook's manner of expressing himself here, strongly marks, that he +made this supposition, only for want of information to enable him to +make any other. He had no idea that the French had visited this land +a second time; and, reduced to the necessity of trying to accommodate +what he saw himself, to what little he had heard of their +proceedings, he confounds a transaction which we, who have been +better instructed, know, for a certainty, belongs to the second +voyage, with a similar one, which his chart of the southern +hemisphere has recorded, and which happened in a different year, and +at a different place. + +<p>The bay, indeed, in which Monsieur de Boisguehenneu landed, is +upon the west side of this land, considerably to the south of Cape +Louis, and not far from another more southerly promontory, called +Cape Bourbon; a part of the coast which our ships were not upon. Its +situation is marked upon the chart constructed for this voyage; and a +particular view of the bay du Lion Marin, (for so Boisguehenneu +called it,) with the soundings, is preserved by Kerguelen.</p> + +<p>But if the bottle and inscription found by Captain Cook's people +were not left here by Boisguehenneu, by whom and when were they left? +This we learn most satisfactorily, from the accounts of Kerguelen's +second voyage, as published by himself and Monsieur de Pagès, +which present us with the following particulars:--"That they arrived +on the west side of this land on the 14th of December, 1773; that +steering to the N.E., they discovered, on the 16th, the Isle de +Reunion, and the other small islands as mentioned above; that, on the +17th, they had before them the principal land, (which they were sure +was connected with that seen by them on the 14th,) and a high point +of that land, named by them Cape François; that beyond this +cape, the coast took a south-easterly direction, and behind it they +found a bay, called by them Baie de l'Oiseau, from the name of their +frigate; that they then endeavoured to enter it, but were prevented +by contrary winds and blowing weather, which drove them off the coast +eastward; but that, at last, on the 6th of January, Monsieur de +Rosnevet, captain of the Oiseau, was able to send his boat on shore +into this bay, under the command of Monsieur de Rochegude, one of his +officers, who took possession of that bay, and of all the country, in +the name of the King of France, with all the requisite +formalities."</p> + +<p>Here then we trace, by the most unexceptionable evidence, the +history of the bottle and inscription; the leaving of which was, no +doubt, one of the requisite formalities observed by Monsieur de +Rochegude on this occasion. And though he did not land till the 6th +of January 1774, yet, as Kerguelen's ships arrived upon the coast on +the 14th of December 1773, and had discovered and looked into this +very bay on the 17th of that month, it was with the strictest +propriety and truth that 1773, and not 1774, was mentioned as the +date of the discovery.</p> + +<p>We need only look at Kerguelen's and Cook's charts, to judge that +the Baie de l'Oiseau, and the harbour where the French inscription +was found, is one and the same place. But besides this agreement as +to the general position, the same conclusion results more decisively +still, from another circumstance worth mentioning: The French, as +well as the English visitors of this bay and harbour, have given us a +particular plan of it; and whoever compares them, must be struck with +a resemblance that could only be produced by copying one common +original with fidelity. Nay, even the soundings are the same upon the +same spots in both plans, being forty-five fathoms between the two +capes, before the entrance of the bay; sixteen fathoms farther in, +where the shores begin to contract; and eight fathoms up, near the +bottom of the harbour.</p> + +<p>To these particulars, which throw abundant light on this part of +our author's journal, I shall only add, that the distance of our +harbour from that where Boisguehenneu landed in 1772, is forty +leagues. For this we have the authority of Kerguelen, in the +following passage:--"Monsieur de Boisguehenneu descendit le 13 de +Fevrier 1772, dans un baie, qu'il nomme Baie du Lion Marin, & +prit possession de cette terre au nom de Roi; il n'y vit aucune trace +d'habitants. Monsieur de Rochegude, en 1774, a descendu dans un autre +baie, que nous avons nommé Baie de l'Oiseau, & cette +seconde rade est à quarantes lieues de la premiere. Il en a +également pris possession, & il n'y trouva +également aucune trace d'habitants." <i>Kerguelen</i>, p. +92.--D.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>As a memorial of our having been in this harbour, I wrote on the +other side of the parchment,</p> + +<p><i>Naves Resolution et Discovery de Rege Magnae Britanniae, +Decembris</i> 1776.</p> + +<p>I then put it again into a bottle, together with a silver +two-penny piece of 1772; and having covered the mouth of the bottle +with a leaden cap, I placed it the next morning in a pile of stones +erected for the purpose, upon a little eminence on the north shore of +the harbour, and near to the place where it was first found, in which +position it cannot escape the notice of any European, whom chance or +design may bring into this port. Here I displayed the British flag, +and named the place Christmas Harbour, from our having arrived in it +on that festival.</p> + +<p>It is the first or northernmost inlet that we meet with on the +S.E. side of the Cape St Louis,[111] which forms the N. side of the +harbour, and is also the northern point of this land. The situation +alone is sufficient to distinguish it from any of the other inlets; +and, to make it more remarkable, its S. point terminates in a high +rock, which is perforated quite through, so as to appear like the +arch of a bridge. We saw none like this upon the whole coast.[112] +The harbour has another distinguishing mark within, from a single +stone or rock, of a vast size, which lies on the top of a hill on the +S. side, near its bottom; and opposite this, on the N. side, there is +another hill, much like it, but smaller. There is a small beach at +its bottom, where we commonly landed; and, behind it, some gently +rising ground, on the top of which is a large pool of fresh-water. +The land on both sides of the inlet is high, and it runs in W., and +W.N.W., about two miles. Its breadth is one mile and a quarter, for +more than half its length, above which it is only half a mile. The +depth of water, which is forty-five fathoms at the entrance, varies, +as we proceed farther in, from thirty to five and four fathoms. The +shores are steep; and the bottom is every where a fine dark sand, +except in some places close to the shore, where there are beds of +sea-weed, which always grows on rocky ground. The head of the harbour +lies open only to two points of the compass; and even these are +covered by islands in the offing, so that no sea can fall in to hurt +a ship. The appearances on shore confirmed this; for we found grass +growing close to high-water mark, which is a sure sign of a pacific +harbour.[113] It is high-water here, at the full and change days, +about ten o'clock; and the tide rises and falls about four feet.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 111: Cape François, for reasons already +assigned.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 112: If there could be the least doubt +remaining, of the identity of the Baie de l'Oiseau and Christmas +Harbour, the circumstance of the perforated rock, which divides it +from another bay to the south, would amount to a strict +demonstration. For Monsieur de Pagès had observed this +discriminating mark before Captain Cook. His words are as +follows:--"L'on vit que la cote de l'Est, voisine du Cap +François, avoit deux baies; elles étoient separees par +une pointe très reconnoissable par sa forme, <i>qui +representoit une porte cochere, au travers de laquelle l'on voyoit le +jour</i>."--Voyages du M. de Pagès, vol. ii. p. 67. Every one +knows how exactly the form of a <i>porte cochere</i>, or arched +gateway, corresponds with that of the arch of a bridge. It is very +satisfactory to find the two navigators, neither of whom knew any +thing of the other's description, adopting the same idea; which both +proves that they had the same uncommon object before their eyes, and +that they made an accurate report.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 113: In the last note, we saw how remarkably +Monsieur de Pagès and Captain Cook agree about the appearance +of the south point of the harbour; I shall here subjoin another +quotation from the former, containing his account of the harbour +itself, in which the reader may trace the same distinguishing +features observed by Captain Cook in the foregoing paragraph. + +<p>"Le 6, l'on mit à terre dans la premiere baie à +l'Est du Cap François, & l'on prit possession de ces +contrées. Ce mouillage consiste en une petite rade, qui a +environs quatres encablures, ou quatre cents toises de profondeur, +sur un tiers en sus de largeur. En dedans de cette rade est un petit +port, dont l'entrée, de quatres encablures de largeur, +presente au Sud-Est. La sonde de la petite rade est depuis +quarante-cinq jusqu'à trente brasses; et celle du port depuis +seize jusqu'à huit. Le fond des deux est de sable noir et +vaseux. La cote des deux bords est haute, & par une pente +très rude; elle est couverte de verdure, & il y a une +quantité prodigieuse d'Outardes. Le fond du port est +occupé par un monticule qui laisse entre lui, et la mer une +plage de sable. Une petite riviere, de très bonne eau, coule +à la mer dans cet endroit; & elle est fournie par un lac +qui est un peu au loin, au dessus du monticule. Il y avoit sur le +plage beaucoup de pinguoins & de lions marins. Ces deux especes +d'animaux ne fuyoient pas, & l'on augura que le pays +n'étoit point habité; la terre rapportoit de l'herbe +large, noire, & bien nourrie, qui n'avoit cependant que cinque +pouces ou plus de hauteur. L'on ne vit aucun arbre, ni signe +l'habitation."--<i>Voyage du Monsieur de Pagès</i>, tom. ii. +p. 69, 70.--D.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>After I had finished this business of the inscription, I went in +my boat round the harbour, and landed in several places, to examine +what the shore afforded; and, particularly, to look for drift wood. +For, although the land here was totally destitute of trees, this +might not be the case in other parts; and if there were any, the +torrents would force some, or, at least, some branches, into the sea, +which would afterward throw them upon the shores, as in all other +countries where there is wood, and in many where there is none: But +throughout the whole extent of the harbour, I found not a single +piece.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, I went upon Cape St Louis,[114] accompanied by +Mr King, my second lieutenant. I was in hopes, from this elevation, +to have had a view of the sea-coast, and of the islands lying off it. +But, when I got up, I found every distant object below me hid in a +thick fog. The land on the same plain, or of a greater height, was +visible enough, and appeared naked and desolate in the highest +degree, except some hills to the southward, which were covered with +snow.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 114: Cape François.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>When I got on board, I found the launch hoisted in, the ships +unmoored, and ready to put to sea; but our sailing was deferred till +five o'clock the next morning, when we weighed anchor.[115]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 115: The reader is probably not a little +wearied with Dr Douglas's minute comparisons of Kerguelen's and +Cook's accounts of the lands in question, which indeed seem unworthy +of so much concern. It was of consequence, however, to guard our +navigator's reputation; and some persons may relish the discussion, +as exhibiting the acumen and good sense which the detector of the +infamous Lauder, and the author of "The Criterion," so eminently +possessed.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION V.</p> + +<p><i>Departure from Christmas Harbour.--Range along the Coast, to +discover its Position and Extent.--Several Promontories and Bays, and +a Peninsula, described and named.--Danger from Shoals.--Another +Harbour and a Sound.--Mr Anderson's Observations on the Natural +Productions, Animals, Soil, etc. of. Kerguelen's Land</i>.</p> + +<p>As soon as the ships were out of Christmas Harbour, we steered +S.E. 1/2 S., along the coast, with a fine breeze at N.N.W., and clear +weather. This we thought the more fortunate, as, for some time past, +fogs had prevailed, more or less, every day; and the continuance of +them would have defeated our plan of extending Kerguelen's discovery. +We kept the lead constantly going; but seldom struck ground with a +line of fifty or sixty fathoms.</p> + +<p>About seven or eight o'clock, we were off a promontory, which I +called Cape Cumberland. It lies a league and a half from the south +point of Christmas Harbour, in the direction of S.E. 1/2 S. Between +them is a bay with two arms, both of which seemed to afford good +shelter for shipping. Off Cape Cumberland is a small but pretty high +island, on the summit of which is a rock like a sentry-box, which +occasioned our giving that name to the island. Two miles farther to +the eastward, lies a group of small islands and rocks, with broken +ground about them: We sailed between these and Sentry-Box Island, the +channel being a full mile broad, and more than forty fathoms deep; +for we found no bottom with that length of line.</p> + +<p>Being through this channel, we discovered, on the south side of +Cape Cumberland, a bay, running in three leagues to the westward. It +is formed by this Cape to the north, and by a promontory to the +south, which I named Point Pringle, after my good friend Sir John +Pringle, President of the Royal Society. The bottom of this bay was +called Cumberland Bay; and it seemed to be disjoined from the sea, +which washes the N.W. coast of this country, by a narrow neck of +land. Appearances, at least, favoured such a conjecture.</p> + +<p>To the southward of Point Pringle, the coast is formed into a +fifth bay; of which this point is the northern extreme; and from it +to the southern extreme, is about four miles in the direction of +S.S.E. 1/4 E. In this bay, which obtained the name of White Bay, on +account of some white spots of land or rocks in the bottom of it, are +several lesser bays or coves, which seemed to be sheltered from all +winds. Off the south point are several rocks which raise their heads +above water; and, probably, many more than do that.</p> + +<p>Thus far our course was in a direction parallel to the coast, and +not more than two miles from it. Thither our glasses were continually +pointed; and we could easily see that, except the bottoms of the bays +and coves, which, for the most part, terminated in sandy beaches, the +shores were rocky, and, in many places, swarmed with birds; but the +country had the same barren and naked appearance as in the +neighbourhood of Christmas Harbour.</p> + +<p>We had kept, on our larboard bow, the land which first opened off +Cape St Louis,[116] in the direction of S. 53° E., thinking that +it was an island, and that we should find a passage between it and +the main. We now discovered this to be a mistake; and found that it +was a peninsula, joined to the rest of the coast by a low isthmus. I +called the bay, formed by this peninsula, Repulse Bay; and a branch +of it seemed to run a good way inland towards the S.S.W. Leaving +this, we steered for the northern point of the peninsula, which we +named Howe's Foreland, in honour of Admiral Lord Howe.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 116: Cape François.]</blockquote> + +<p>As we drew near it, we perceived some rocks and breakers near the +N.W. part; and two islands a league and a half to the eastward of it, +which, at first, appeared as one. I steered between them and the +Foreland;[117] and was in the middle of the channel by noon. At that +time our latitude, by observation, was 48° 51' S.; and we had +made twenty-six miles of east longitude from Cape St Louis.[118]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 117: Though Kerguelen's ships, in 1773, did not +venture to explore this part of the coast, Monsieur de Pagès's +account of it answers well to Captain Cook's. "Du 17 au 23, l'on ne +prit d'autre connoissance que celle de la figure de la cote, qui, +courant d'abord au Sud-Est, & revenant ensuite au Nord-Est, +formoit un grand golfe. Il étoit occupé par des brisans +& des rochers; il avoit aussi une isle basse, & assez +etendue, & l'on usa d'une bien soigneuse precaution, pour ne pas +s'affaler dans ce golfe."--<i>Voyage du M. de Pagès</i>, tom. +ii. p. 67.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 118: Cape François.]</blockquote> + +<p>From this situation, the most advanced land to the southward bore +S.E.; but the trending of the coast from the Foreland was more +southerly. The islands which lie off Christmas Harbour bore N.; and +the north point of the Foreland N. 60° W., distant three miles. +The land of this Peninsula, or Foreland, is of a moderate height, and +of a hilly and rocky substance. The coast is low, with rocky points +shooting out from it; between which points are little coves, with +sandy beaches; and these, at this time, were mostly covered with sea +birds. We also saw upon them some seals.</p> + +<p>As soon as we were clear of the rocks and islands before +mentioned, I gave orders to steer S.E. by S. along the coast. But +before these orders could be carried into execution, we discovered +the whole sea before us to be chequered with large beds of rock-weed, +which we knew to be fast to the bottom, and to grow on rocky shoals. +I had often found a great depth of water on such shoals; and I had, +as often, found rocks that have raised their heads nearly to the +surface of the water. It is always dangerous, therefore, to sail over +them before they are well examined; but more especially, when there +is no surge of the sea to discover the danger. This was the case at +present, for the sea was as smooth as a mill-pond. Consequently we +endeavoured to avoid them, by steering through the winding channels +by which they were separated. We kept the lead continually going; but +never struck ground with a line of sixty fathoms. This circumstance +increased the danger, as we could not anchor, whatever necessity +there might be for it. After running in this manner above an hour, we +discovered a lurking rock, just even with the surface of the sea. It +bore N.E. 1/2 E., distant three or four miles, and lay in the middle +of one of these large beds of weeds. This was a sufficient warning to +make us use every precaution to prevent our coming upon them.</p> + +<p>We were now cross the mouth of a large bay, that lies about eight +miles to the southward of Howe's Foreland. In and before the entrance +of this bay are several low islands, rocks, and those beds of +sea-weed. But there seemed to be winding channels between them. After +continuing our course half an hour longer, we were so much +embarrassed with these shoals, that I resolved to haul off to the +eastward, as the likeliest means of extricating ourselves from the +danger that threatened us. But so far was this from answering the +intended purpose, that it brought us into more. I therefore found it +absolutely necessary to secure the ships, if possible, in some place +before night; especially as the weather had now become hazy, and a +fog was apprehended. And seeing some inlets to the S.W. of us, I +ordered Captain Clerke, as the Discovery drew less water than the +Resolution, to lead in for the shore; which was accordingly done.</p> + +<p>In standing in, it was not possible to avoid running over the +edges of some of the shoals, on which we found from ten to twenty +fathoms water; and the moment we were over, had no ground at the +depth of fifty fathoms. After making a few boards to weather a spit +that run out from an island on our lee, Captain Clerke made the +signal for having discovered an harbour; in which, about five +o'clock, we anchored in fifteen fathoms water, over a bottom of fine +dark sand, about three quarters of a mile from the shore; the north +point of the harbour bearing N. by E. 1/2 E., one mile distant; and +the small islands in the entrance, within which we anchored, +extending from E. to S.E.</p> + +<p>Scarcely were the ships secured, when it began to blow very +strong; so that we thought it prudent to strike top-gallant yards. +The weather, however, continued fair; and the wind dispersing the fog +that had settled on the hills, it was tolerably clear also. The +moment, therefore, we had anchored, I hoisted out two boats; in one +of which I sent Mr Bligh, the master, to survey the upper part of the +harbour, and look for wood; for not a shrub was to be seen from the +ship. I also desired Captain Clerke to send his master to sound the +channel that is on the south side of the small isles, between them +and a pretty large island which lies near the south point of the +harbour. Having given these directions, I went myself, in my other +boat, accompanied by Mr Gore, my first lieutenant, and Mr Bayly, and +landed on the north point, to see what I could discover from +thence.</p> + +<p>From the highest hill over the point, we had a pretty good view of +the sea-coast, as far as Howe's Foreland. It is much indented, and +several rocky points seemed to shoot out from it, with coves and +inlets of unequal extent. One of the latter, the end of which I could +not see, was disjoined from that in which the ships were at anchor, +by the point we then stood upon. A great many small islands, rocks, +and breakers, appeared scattered along the coast, as well to the +southward as northward; and I saw no better channel to get out of the +harbour, than by the one through which we had entered it.</p> + +<p>While Mr Bayly and I were making the observations, Mr Gore +encompassed the hill, and joined us by a different route, at the +place where I had ordered the boat to wait for us. Except the craggy +precipices, we met with nothing to obstruct our walk. For the country +was, if possible, more barren and desolate than about Christmas +Harbour. And yet, if there be the least fertility in any part of this +land, we ought to have found it in this, which is completely +sheltered from the predominating bleak southerly and westerly winds. +I observed, with regret, that there was neither food nor covering for +cattle of any sort; and that, if I left any, they must inevitably +perish. In the little cove where the boat waited for us (which I +called Penguin Cove, as the beach was covered with these birds), is a +fine rivulet of fresh water, that may be easily come at. Here were +also some large seals, shags, and a few ducks; and Mr Bayly had a +transient sight of a very small land bird; but it flew amongst the +rocks, and we lost it. About nine o'clock we got on board.</p> + +<p>Soon after, Mr Bligh returned, and reported, that he had been four +miles up the harbour, and, as he judged, not far from the head of it. +He found that its direction was W.S.W.; and that its breadth, a +little above the ships, did not exceed a mile; but grew narrower +toward the head. The soundings were very irregular, being from +thirty-seven to ten fathoms; and, except under the beds of sea-weed, +which in many places extended from the shore near half channel over, +the bottom was a fine sand. He landed on both shores, which he found +barren and rocky, without the least signs of tree or shrub, and with +very little verdure of any kind. Penguins, and other oceanic birds +and seals, occupied part of the coast, but not in such numbers as at +Christinas Harbour.</p> + +<p>Finding no encouragement to continue our researches, and, the next +morning, both wind and weather being favourable, I weighed anchor and +put to sea. To this harbour I gave the name of Port Palliser, in +honour of my worthy friend Admiral Sir Hugh Palliser. It is situated +in the latitude of 49° 3' S., in the longitude of 69° 37' E., +and five leagues from Howe's Foreland, in the direction of S. 25° +E. There are several islands, rocks, and breakers lying in and +without the entrance. We went in and out between them and the north +head; but I have no doubt that there are other channels.</p> + +<p>As we were standing out of Port Palliser, we discovered a round +hill, like a sugar-loaf, in the direction of S. 72° E., about +nine leagues distant. It had the appearance of an island lying at +some distance from the coast; but we afterward found it was upon the +main land. In getting out to sea, we had to steer through the winding +channels amongst the shoals. However, we ventured to run over some of +them, on which we never found less than eighteen fathoms, and often +did not strike ground with twenty-four; so that, had it not been for +the sea-weed growing upon all of them, they would not have been +discovered.</p> + +<p>After we had got about three or four leagues from the coast, we +found a clear sea, and then steered E. till nine o'clock, when the +Sugar Loaf hill, above mentioned, which I named Mount Campbell, bore +S.E., and a small island that lies to the northward of it, S.S.E., +distant four leagues. I now steered more southerly, in order to get +in with the land. At noon, the latitude by double altitudes was +49° 8' S.; and we had made eighty miles of east longitude from +Cape St Louis.[119] Mount Campbell bore S. 47° W., distant about +four leagues; a low point, beyond which no land was to be seen, bore +S.S.E., at the distance of about twenty miles; and we were about two +leagues from the shore.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 119: Cape François.]</blockquote> + +<p>The land here is low and level.[120] The mountains ending about +five leagues from the low point, a great extent of low land is left, +on which Mount Campbell is situated, about four miles from the foot +of the mountains, and one from the sea coast. These mountains have a +considerable elevation, as also most of the inland ones. They seemed +to be composed of naked rocks, whose summits were capt with snow. Nor +did the valleys appear to greater advantage. To whatever quarter we +directed our glasses, nothing but sterility was to be seen.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 120: This part of the coast seems to be what +the French saw on the 5th of January 1774. Monsieur de Pagès +speaks of it thus: "Nous reconnumes une nouvelle cote etendue de +toute veu dans l'Est, & dans le Ouest. Les terres de cette cote +étoient moins elevées que celles que nous avions veues +jusques ici; elles étoient aussi d'un aspect moins +rude."--<i>De Pagès</i>, tom. ii. p. 68.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>We had scarcely finished taking the bearings at noon, before we +observed low land opening off the low point just mentioned, in the +direction of S.S.E., and eight miles beyond it. This new point proved +to be the very eastern extremity of this land, and it was named Cape +Digby. It is situated in the latitude of 49° 23' S., and in the +longitude of 70° 34' E.</p> + +<p>Between Howe's Foreland and Cape Digby, the shore forms (besides +the several lesser bays and harbours) one great bay that extends +several leagues to the S.W., where it seemed to lose itself in +various arms running in, between the mountains. A prodigious quantity +of sea-weed grows all over it, which seemed to be the same sort of +weed that Sir Joseph Banks distinguished by the name of <i>fucus +giganteus</i>. Some of this weed is of a most enormous length, though +the stem is not much thicker than a man's thumb. I have mentioned, +that on some of the shoals upon which it grows, we did not strike +ground with a line of twenty-four fathoms. The depth of water, +therefore, must have been greater. And as this weed does not grow in +a perpendicular direction, but makes a very acute angle with the +bottom, and much of it afterward spreads many fathoms on the surface +of the sea, I am well warranted to say, that some of it grows to the +length of sixty fathoms and upward.</p> + +<p>At one o'clock (having run two leagues upon a S.E. 1/2 E. course, +from noon) we sounded, and found eighteen fathoms water, and a bottom +of fine sand. Seeing a small bending in the coast, on the north side +of Cape Digby, I steered for it. It was my intention to anchor there, +if I should find it might be done with safety, and to land on the +Cape, to examine what the low land within it produced. After running +in one league, we sounded again, and found thirteen fathoms; and +immediately after, saw a shoal right before us, that seemed to extend +off from the shore, from which we were distant about two miles. This +discovery obliged us to haul off, E. by S., one league, where our +depth of water increased to twenty-five fathoms. We then steered +along shore, and continued in the same depth, over a bottom of fine +sand, till Cape Digby bore W., two leagues distant, when we found +twenty-six fathoms.</p> + +<p>After this we did not strike ground, though we tried several +times; but the ship having a good deal of way, ran the line out +before the lead could reach the bottom, and being disappointed in my +views both of anchoring and of landing, I would not shorten sail, but +pushed forward, in order to see as much of the coast as possible +before night. From Cape Digby, it trends nearly S.W. by S. for about +four or five leagues, or to a low point, to which, in honour of her +majesty, I gave the name of Point Charlotte, and it is the +southernmost on the low coast.</p> + +<p>Six leagues from Cape Digby, in the direction of S.S.W. 1/2 W., is +a pretty high projecting point, which was called Prince of Wales's +Foreland; and six leagues beyond that, in the same direction, and in +the latitude of 49° 54' S., and the longitude of 70 13' E., is +the most southerly point of the whole coast, which I distinguished by +the name of Cape George, in honour of his majesty.</p> + +<p>Between Point Charlotte and Prince of Wales's Foreland, where the +country to the S.W. began again to be hilly, is a deep inlet, which +was called Royal Sound. It runs in W. quite to the foot of the +mountains which bound it on the S.W., as the low land +before-mentioned does on the N. There are islands lying in the +entrance, and others higher up, as far as we could distinguish. As we +advanced to the S. we observed, on the S.W. side of Prince of Wales's +Foreland, another inlet into Royal Sound; and it then appeared, that +the foreland was the E. point of a large island lying in the mouth of +it. There are several small islands in this inlet; and one about a +league to the southward of Prince of Wales's Foreland.</p> + +<p>All the land on the S.W. side of Royal Sound, quite to Cape +George, is composed of elevated hills, that rise directly from the +sea, one behind another, to a considerable height. Most of the +summits were capt with snow, and they appeared as naked and barren as +any we had seen. The smallest vestige of a tree or shrub was not +discoverable, either inland or on the coast; and, I think, I may +venture to pronounce that the country produces none. The low land +about Cape Digby, when examined through our glasses, resembled the +rest of the low land we had before met with; that is, it appeared to +be partly naked and partly covered with a green turf, a description +of which shall be given in its proper place. The shore is composed of +sandy beaches, on which were many penguins, and other oceanic birds; +and an immense number of shags kept perpetually flying about the +ships as we sailed along.</p> + +<p>Being desirous of getting the length of Cape George, to be assured +whether or no it was the most southerly point of the whole land, I +continued to stretch to the S. under all the sail we could carry, +till half an hour past seven o'clock, when, seeing no likelihood of +accomplishing my design, as the wind had by this time shifted to +W.S.W., the very direction in which we wanted to go, I took the +advantage of the shifting of the wind, and stood away from the +coast.</p> + +<p>At this time Cape George bore S. 53° W. distant about seven +leagues. A small island that lies off the pitch of the cape was the +only land we could see to the south of it; and we were farther +confirmed that there was no more in that quarter by a S.W. swell +which we met as soon as we brought the cape to bear in this +direction.</p> + +<p>But we have still a stronger proof that no part of this land can +extend much, if at all, to the southward of Cape George, and that is, +Captain Furneaux's track in February, 1773, after his separation from +me during my late voyage. His log-book is now lying before me; and I +find from it, that he crossed the meridian of the land only about +seventeen leagues to the southward of Cape George, a distance at +which it may very well be seen in clear weather. This seems to have +been the case when Captain Furneaux passed it. For his log-book makes +no mention of fogs or hazy weather; on the contrary, it expressly +tells us, that, when in this situation, they had it in their power to +make observations, both for latitude and longitude, on board his +ship; so that, if this land extends farther S. than Cape George, it +would have been scarcely possible that he should have passed without +seeing it.</p> + +<p>From these circumstances we are able to determine, within a very, +few miles, the quantity of latitude that this land occupies, which +does not much exceed one degree and a quarter. As to its extent from +E. to W. that still remains undecided. We only know, that no part of +it can reach so far to the W. as the meridian of 65°, because, in +1773, under that meridian, I searched for it in vain.[121]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 121: If the French observations, as marked upon +Captain Cook's chart, and still more authentically upon that +published by their own discoverers, may be depended upon, this land +doth not reach so far to the W. as the meridian of 63°; Cape +Louis, which is represented as its most westerly point, being laid +down by them to the E. of that meridian.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>The French discoverers, with some reason, imagined Cape St +Louis[122] to be the projecting point, of the southern continent. The +English have since proved that no such continent exists, and that the +land in question is an island of no great extent;[123] which, from +its sterility, I should, with great propriety, call the Island of +Desolation, but that I would not rob Monsieur de Kerguelen of the +honour of its bearring his name.[124]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 122: The idea of Cape Louis being this +projecting point of a southern continent must have soon vanished, as +Cape François, within a year after, was found, by the same +discoverer, to lie above one third of a degree farther N. upon the +same land. But if Kerguelen entertained any such imagination at +first, we are sure that afterwards he thought very differently. This +appears from the following explicit declaration of his sentiments, +which deserves to be transcribed from his late publication, as it +does equal honour to his candour, and Captain Cook's abilities:--"La +terre que j'ai decouverte est certainement <i>une Isle</i>; puisque +le célebre Capitaine Cook a passé au Sud, lors de son +premiere voyage, sans rien rencontrer. Je juge inême, que cette +isle <i>n'est pas bien grande</i>. Il y a aussi apparence, d'apres le +Voyage de Monsieur Cook, que toute cette étendue de Mers +Meridionales, est semée d'lsles ou de rochers; mais qu'il n'y +a <i>ni continent ni grande terre</i>." Kerguelen, p. +92.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 123: Kerguelen, as we see in the last note, +concurs with Captain Cook as to this. However, he tells us, that he +has reason to believe that it is about 200 leagues in circuit; and +that he was acquainted with about fourscore leagues of its coast. +"J'en connois environs quatre-vingt lieues des cotes; et; j'ai lieu +de croire, qu'elle a environ deux cents lieues de circuit." +Kerguelen, page 32--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 124: Some of Monsieur de Kerguelen's own +countrymen seem more desirous than we are to rob him of his honour. +It is very remarkable, that Monsieur de Pagès never once +mentions the name of his commander; and, though he takes occasion to +enumerate the several French explorers of the southern hemisphere, +from Gonneville down to Crozet, he affects to preserve an entire +silence about Kerguelen, whose first voyage, in which the discovery +of this considerable tract of land was made, is kept as much out of +sight as if it never had taken place. Nay, not satisfied with +refusing to acknowledge the right of another, he almost assumes it to +himself. For, upon a map of the world annexed to his book, at the +spot where the new land is delineated, we read this inscription, +<i>Isles nouvelles Australes vuées par Monsieur de +Pagès, en</i> 1774. He could scarcely have expressed himself +in stronger terms, if he had meant to convey an idea that he was the +conductor of the discovery. And yet we know that he was only a +lieutenant [Enseigne de vaisseau] on board of one of three ships +commanded by Kerguelen; and that the discovery had been already made +in a former voyage, undertaken while he was actually engaged in his +singular journey round the world. + +<p>After all, it cannot but be remarked, that Kerguelen was +peculiarly unfortunate in having done so little to complete what he +had begun. He discovered a new land indeed; but, in two expeditions +to it, he could not once bring his ships to an anchor upon any part +of its coasts. Captain Cook, as we have seen in this, and in the +foregoing chapter, had either fewer difficulties to struggle with, or +was more successful in surmounting them.--D.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>Mr Anderson, my surgeon, who, as I have already mentioned, had +made natural history a part of his studies, lost no opportunity, +during the short time we lay in Christmas Harbour, of searching the +country in every direction. He afterward communicated to me the +observations he made on its natural productions; and I shall insert +them here in his own words.</p> + +<p>"Perhaps no place hitherto discovered in either hemisphere, under +the same parallel of latitude, affords so scanty a field for the +naturalist as this barren spot. The verdure which appears, when at a +little distance from the shore, would flatter one with the +expectation of meeting with some herbage; but in this we were much +deceived. For on landing, we saw that this lively colour was +occasioned only by one small plant, not much unlike some sorts of +<i>saxifrage</i>, which grows in large spreading tufts to a +considerable way up the hills. It forms a surface of a pretty large +texture, and grows on a kind of rotten turf, into which one sinks a +foot or two at every step. This turf, dried, might, in cases of +necessity, serve for fuel, and is the only thing we met with here +that could possibly be applied to this use."</p> + +<p>"There is another plant, plentifully enough scattered about the +boggy declivities, which grows to near the height of two feet, and +not much unlike a small cabbage, when it has shot into seeds. The +leaves about the root are numerous, large, and rounded; narrower at +the base, and ending in a small point. Those on the stalks are much +smaller, oblong, and pointed. The stalks, which are often three or +four, all rise separately from the root, and run into long +cylindrical heads, composed of small flowers. It has not only the +appearance, but the watery acrid taste of the antiscorbutic plants, +and yet differs materially from the whole tribe; so that we looked +upon it as a production entirely peculiar to the place. We ate it +frequently raw, and found it almost like the New Zealand scurvy +grass. But it seemed to acquire a rank flavour by being boiled; +which, however, some of our people did not perceive, and esteemed it +good. If it could be introduced into our kitchen gardens, it would, +in all probability, improve so far by cultivation as to be an +excellent pot-herb. At this time none of its seeds were ripe enough +to be preserved, and brought home, to try the experiment."</p> + +<p>"Two other small plants were found near the brooks and boggy +places, which were eaten as sallad; the one almost like garden +cresses, and very fiery, and the other very mild. This last, though +but small, is in itself a curiosity; having not only male and female, +but what the botanists call <i>androgynous</i> plants."</p> + +<p>"A coarse grass, which we cut down for the cattle, grows pretty +plentifully in a few small spots about the sides of the harbour, with +a smaller sort, which is rarer; and upon the flat ground a sort of +goose-grass, and another small plant much like it. In short, the +whole catalogue of plants does not exceed sixteen or eighteen, +including some sorts of moss, and a beautiful species of +<i>lichen</i>, which grows upon the rocks, higher up than the rest of +the vegetable productions. Nor is there even the least appearance of +a shrub in the whole country."</p> + +<p>"Nature has rather been more bountiful in furnishing it with +animals, though, strictly speaking, they are not inhabitants of the +place, being all of the marine kind; and, in general, only using the +land for breeding and for a resting-place. The most considerable are +seals, or (as we used to call them) sea-bears, being that sort called +the ursine seal. These come ashore to rest or breed; but they were +not very numerous, which is not to be wondered at, as it is known +that these animals rather frequent out-rocks, and little islands +lying off coasts, than bays or inlets. They were, at this time, +shedding their hair, and so tame, that we killed what number we +chose."</p> + +<p>"No other quadruped, either of the sea or of the land kind, was +seen; but a great number of birds, viz. ducks, petrels, albatrosses, +shags, gulls, and sea-swallows."</p> + +<p>"The ducks are about the size of a teal or widgeon, but somewhat +different in colour from either. They were in tolerable plenty about +the sides of the hills, or even lower; and we killed a considerable +number, which were good, and without the least fishy taste. We met +with some of the same sort at the island of Georgia in our late +voyage."</p> + +<p>"The cape petrel, or pintado bird; the small blue one, which is +always seen at sea, and the small black one, or Mother Carey's +chicken, are not here in great numbers. But we found a nest of the +first with an egg in it, about the size of a pullet's; and the +second, though scarce, was met with in some holes like +rabbit-burrows."</p> + +<p>"Another sort, which is the largest of all the petrels, and called +by the seamen Mother Carey's goose, is in greater numbers, and so +tame, that at first we could kill them with a stick upon the beach. +They are not inferior in size to an albatross, and are carnivorous, +feeding on the dead carcasses of seals or birds that were thrown into +the sea. Their colour is a sooty brown, with a greenish bill and +feet; and, doubtless, they are the same that the Spaniards call +<i>quebrantahuessos</i>, whose head is figured in Pernetty's Voyage +to Falkland Islands."[125]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 125: Fig. 3, plate viii.]</blockquote> + +<p>"Of the albatrosses, none were found on shore except the grey one, +which is commonly met with at sea in the higher southern latitudes. +Once I saw one of these sitting in the cliff of a rock, but they were +frequently flying about the harbour; and the common large sort, as +well as the smaller with a black face, were seen farther out."</p> + +<p>"Penguins form, by far, the greatest number of birds here, and are +of three sorts; the first, or largest, I have seen formerly at the +island of Georgia.[126] It is also mentioned by Bougainville;[127] +but it does not seem to be so solitary as he represents it, for we +found considerable numbers flocking together. The head is black, the +upper part of the body a leaden grey, and the under part white, with +black feet. It has two broad stripes of fine yellow, that begin on +the sides of the head, and, descending by each side of the neck, meet +above its breast. The bill is partly reddish, and longer than in the +other sorts."</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 126: Pennant's Patagonian penguin. See his +Genera of Birds, tab. 14, p. 66.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 127: Voyage autour du Monde, p. +69.]</blockquote> + +<p>"The second sort of penguins scarcely exceeds half the size of the +former. The upper part of the body is a blackish grey, with a white +spot on the upper part of the head, growing broader at each side. The +bill and feet are yellowish. A very accurate figure and description, +both of this and of the preceding, is given by Mr Sonnerat."[128]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 128: Voyage à la Nouvelle Guinée, +p. 181, 182. Tab. 113, 115.]</blockquote> + +<p>"The third sort of penguin met with here, had never been seen by +any of us before. Its length is twenty-four inches, and its breadth +twenty. The upper part of the body and throat are black, the rest +white, except the upper part of the head, which has a fine yellow +arch, looking backward, and ending on each side in long soft +feathers, which it can erect as two crests."</p> + +<p>"The two first sorts were found together on the beach; the large +ones keeping by themselves, and walking in small flocks amongst the +others, which were more numerous, and were sometimes seen a +considerable way up the sides of the hills. The third sort were only +found by themselves, but in great numbers, on the outer shores of the +harbour. They were breeding at this time; and they lay on the bare +stones only one white egg, larger than that of a duck. All the three +sorts of penguins were so tame, that we took as many as we pleased +with our hands."</p> + +<p>"The shags of this place are of two sorts; the lesser cormorant or +water-crow, and another, which is black above, with a white belly, +the same that is found in New Zealand, Terra del Fuego, and the +island of Georgia."</p> + +<p>"We also met with here the common sea-gull, sea-swallow, tern, and +Port Egmont hen; the last of which were tame and numerous."</p> + +<p>"Another sort of white bird, flocks of which flew about the bay, +is very singular, having the base of the bill covered with a horny +crust.[129] It is larger than a pigeon, with the bill black and the +feet white, made like those of a curlew. Some of our people put it in +competition with the duck as food."</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 129: The sheath-bill. See Pennant's Genera of +Birds, p. 43.]</blockquote> + +<p>"The seine was hauled once, but we found only a few fish about the +size of a small haddock, though quite different from any we knew. The +snout is lengthened, the head armed with some strong spines, the rays +of the back-fin long, and very strong, the belly is large, and the +body without scales. The only shell-fish are a few limpets and +muscles; and amongst the stones a few small star-fish and +sea-anemonies were found."</p> + +<p>"The hills are of a moderate height; yet many of their tops were +covered with snow at this time, though answering to our June. Some of +them have large quantities of stones, irregularly heaped together at +their root, or on their sides. The sides of others, which form steep +cliffs toward the sea, are rent from the top downward, and seem ready +to fall off, having stones of a considerable size lying in the +fissures. Some were of opinion that frost might be the cause of these +fissures, which I shall not dispute; but how others of the +appearances could be effected, but by earthquakes, or some such +severe shocks, I cannot say."</p> + +<p>"It appears that rain must be almost constant here, not only from +the marks of large torrents having rushed down, but from the +disposition of the country, which, even on the hills, is almost an +entire bog or swamp, the ground sinking at every step."</p> + +<p>"The rocks, or foundations of the hills, are composed chiefly of a +dark blue, and very hard, stone; intermixed with small particles of +glimmer or quartz. This seems to be one of the most universal +productions of nature, as it constitutes whole mountains in Sweden, +in Scotland, at the Canary Islands, the Cape of Good Hope, and at +this place. Another brownish brittle stone forms here some +considerable rocks; and one which is blacker, and found in detached +pieces, incloses bits of coarse quartz. A red, a dull yellow, and a +purplish sand-stone, are also found in small pieces; and pretty large +lumps of semi-transparent quartz, disposed irregularly in polyedral +pyramidal crystals of long shining fibres. Some small pieces of the +common sort are met with in the brooks, made round by attrition; but +none hard enough to resist a file. Nor were any of the other stones +acted on by aquafortis, or attracted by the magnet."</p> + +<p>"Nothing, that had the least appearance of an ore or metal, was +seen."</p> + +<p>SECTION VI.</p> + +<p><i>Passage from Kerguelen's to Van Diemen's Land.--Arrival in +Adventure Bay.--Incidents there.--Interviews with the Natives.--Their +Persons and Dress described.--Account of their Behaviour.--Table of +the Longitude, Latitude, and Variation.--Mr Anderson's Observations +on the Natural Productions of the Country, on the Inhabitants, and +their Language</i>.</p> + +<p>After leaving Kerguelen's Land, I steered E. by N. intending, in +obedience to my instructions, to touch next at New Zealand, to +recruit our water, to take in wood, and to make hay for the cattle. +Their number, by this time, had been considerably diminished; two +young bulls, one of the heifers, two rams, and several of the goats, +having of late died, while we were employed in exploring this +desolate coast.</p> + +<p>The 31st in the morning, being the day after we stood out to sea, +we had several observations of the sun and moon. Their results gave +the longitude 72° 33' 36" E. The timekeeper, in this situation, +gave 72° 38' 15". These observations were the more useful, as we +had not been able to get any for some time before, and they now +served to assure us that no material error had crept into the +time-keeper.</p> + +<p>On the 1st of January, being then in the latitude of 48° 41' +S. longitude 76° 50' E., the variation was 30° 39' W.; and in +the next day, in the latitude of 48° 22' S. longitude 80° 22' +E., it was 30° 47' 18" W. This was the greatest variation we +found in this passage; for afterward it began to decrease, but so +slowly, that on the 3d, in the evening, being then in the latitude of +48° 16' S. longitude 85° E., it was 29° 38' W.</p> + +<p>Thus far we had fresh gales from the W. and S.W., and tolerably +clear weather. But now the wind veered to the N. where it continued +eight days, and was attended with a thick fog. During this time we +ran above 300 leagues in the dark. Now and then the weather would +clear up, and give us a sight of the sun; but this happened very +seldom, and was always of short continuance. On the 7th I hoisted out +a boat, and sent an order to Captain Clerke, appointing Adventure +Bay, in Van Diemen's Land, as our place of rendezvous, in case of +separation before we arrived in the meridian of that land. But we +were fortunate enough, amidst all this foggy weather, by frequently +firing guns as signals, though we seldom saw each other, not to lose +company.</p> + +<p>On the 12th, being in the latitude of 48° 40' S. longitude +110° 26' E. the northerly winds ended in a calm; which, after a +few hours, was succeeded by a wind from the southward. This, with +rain, continued for twenty-four hours, when it freshened, and veered +to the W. and N.W., and brought on fair and clear weather.</p> + +<p>We continued our course to the eastward, without meeting with any +thing worthy of notice, till four o'clock in the morning of the 19th, +when, in a sudden squall of wind, though the Discovery received no +damage, our fore-top-mast went by the board, and carried the +main-top-gallant-mast with it. This occasioned some delay, as it took +up the whole day to clear the wreck, and fit another top-mast. The +former was accomplished without losing any part of it, except a few +fathoms of small rope. Not having a spare main-top-gallant-mast on +board, the fore-top-gallant-mast was converted into one for our +immediate use.</p> + +<p>The wind continued westerly, blew a fresh gale, and was attended +with clear weather, so that scarcely a day passed without being able +to get observations for fixing the longitude, and the variation of +the compass. The latter decreased in such a manner, that in the +latitude of 44° 18' S. longitude 132° 2' E., it was no more +than 5° 34' 18" W.; and on the 22d, being then in the latitude of +43° 27' S. longitude 141° 50' E., it was 1° 24' 15" E. So +that we had crossed the Line where the compass has no variation.</p> + +<p>On the 24th, at three o'clock in the morning, we discovered the +coast of Van Diemen's Land, bearing N. 1/2 W. At four o'clock the +S.W. cape bore N.N.W. 1/2 W., and the Mewstone N.E. by E. three +leagues distant. There are several islands and high rocks lying +scattered along this part of the coast, the southernmost of which is +the Mewstone. It is a round elevated rock, five or six leagues +distant from the S.W. cape, in the direction of S. 55° E.</p> + +<p>At noon, our latitude was 43° 47' S. longitude 147° E., +and the situation of the lands round us as follows: An elevated +round-topped hill bore N. 17° W.; the S.W. cape N. 74° W.; +the Mewstone W. 1/2 N.; Swilly Isle, or Rock, S. 49° E.; and the +S.E. of S. cape N. 40° E. distant near three leagues. The land +between the S.W. and S. capes is broken and hilly, the coast winding, +with points shooting out from it; but we were too far off to be able +to judge whether the bays formed by these points were sheltered from +the sea-winds. The bay which appeared to be the largest and deepest, +lies to the westward of the peaked hill above mentioned. The +variation of the compass here was 5° 15' E.</p> + +<p>At six o'clock in the afternoon we sounded, and found sixty +fathoms water, over a bottom of broken coral and shells. The S. cape +then bore N. 75° W. two or three leagues distant; Tasman's Head +N.E.; and Swilly Rock S. by W 1/2 W. About a league to the eastward +of Swilly is another elevated rock, that is not taken notice of by +Captain Furneaux. I called it the Eddystone, from its very great +resemblance to that light-house. Nature seems to have left these two +rocks here for the same purpose that the Eddystone light-house was +built by man, viz. to give navigators notice of the dangers around +them; for they are the conspicuous summits of a ledge of rocks under +water, on which the sea, in many places, breaks very high. Their +surface is white with the dung of sea-fowls; so that they may be seen +at some distance even in the night. On the N.E. side of Storm Bay, +which lies between the S. cape and Tasman's Head, there are some +coves or creeks, that seemed to be sheltered from the sea-winds; and +I am of opinion, that, were this coast examined, there would be found +some good harbours.</p> + +<p>Soon after we had sight of land the westerly winds left us, and +were succeeded by variable light airs and alternate calms, till the +26th at noon. At that time a breeze sprung up and freshened at S.E. +which put it in my power to carry into execution the design I had, +upon due consideration, formed, of carrying the ships into Adventure +Bay, where I might expect to get a supply of wood and of grass for +the cattle; of both which articles we should, as I now found, have +been in great want if I had waited till our arrival in New Zealand. +We therefore stood for the bay, and anchored in it at four o'clock in +the afternoon, at twelve fathoms water, over a bottom of sand and +ooze. Penguin Island, which lies close to the E. point of the bay, +bore N. 84° E.; the southernmost point of Maria's Islands bore N. +76° 1/2 E.; and Cape Frederick Henry, or the N. point of the bay, +bore N. 33° E. Our distance from the nearest shore was about +three quarters of a mile.</p> + +<p>As soon as we had anchored, I ordered the boats to be hoisted out. +In one of them I went myself to look for the most commodious place +for furnishing ourselves with the necessary supplies; and Captain +Clerke went in his boat upon the same service. Wood and water we +found in plenty, and in situations convenient enough, especially the +first. But grass, of which we stood most in need, was scarce, and +also very coarse. Necessity, however, obliged us to take such as we +could get.</p> + +<p>Next morning early, I sent Lieutenant King to the E. side of the +bay with two parties, one to cut wood, and the other to cut grass, +under the protection of the marines, whom I judged it prudent to land +as a guard. For although, as yet, none of the natives had appeared, +there could be no doubt that some were in our neighbourhood, as we +had seen columns of smoke from the time of our approaching the coast, +and some now was observed at no great distance up in the woods, I +also sent the launch for water; and afterward visited all the parties +myself. In the evening, we drew the seine at the head of the bay, +and, at one haul, caught a great quantity of fish. We should have got +many more, had not the net broken in drawing it ashore. Most of them +were of that sort known to seamen by the name of elephant fish. After +this, every one repaired on board with what wood and grass we had +cut, that we might be ready to sail whenever the wind should +serve.</p> + +<p>This not happening next morning, the people were sent on shore +again on the same duty as the day before. I also employed the +carpenter, with part of his crew, to cut some spars for the use of +the ship; and dispatched Mr Roberts, one of the mates, in a small +boat to survey the bay.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, we were agreeably surprised, at the place where +we were cutting wood, with a visit from some of the natives, eight +men and a boy. They approached as from the woods, without betraying +any marks of fear, or rather with the greatest confidence imaginable; +for none of them, had any weapons, except one who held in his hand a +stick about two feet long, and pointed at one end.</p> + +<p>They were quite naked, and wore no ornaments, unless we consider +as such, and as a proof of their love of finery, some small punctures +or ridges raised on different parts of their bodies, some in +straight, and others in curved lines.</p> + +<p>They were of the common stature, but rather slender. Their skin +was black, and also their hair, which was as woolly as that of any +native of Guinea; but they were not distinguished by remarkably thick +lips, nor flat noses. On the contrary, their features were far from +being disagreeable. They had pretty good eyes; and their teeth were +tolerably even, but very dirty. Most of them had their hair and +beards smeared with a red ointment; and some had their faces also +painted with the same composition.</p> + +<p>They received every present we made to them without the least +appearance of satisfaction. When some bread was given, as soon as +they understood that it was to be eaten, they either returned it, or +threw it away, without even tasting it. They also refused some +elephant fish, both raw and dressed, which we offered to them. But +upon giving some birds to them, they did not return these, and easily +made us comprehend that they were fond of such food. I had brought +two pigs ashore, with a view to leave them in the woods. The instant +these came within their reach, they seized them, as a dog would have +done, by the ears, and were for carrying them off immediately, with +no other intention, as we could perceive, but to kill them.</p> + +<p>Being desirous of knowing the use of the stick which one of our +visitors carried in his hand, I made signs to them to shew me; and so +far succeeded, that one of them set up a piece of wood as a mark, and +threw at it at the distance of about twenty yards. But we had little +reason to commend his dexterity; for, after repeated trials, he was +still very wide from the object. Omai, to shew them how much superior +our weapons were to theirs, then fired his musquet at it, which +alarmed them so much, that notwithstanding all we could do or say, +they ran instantly into the woods. One of them was so frightened, +that he let drop an axe and two knives that had been given to him. +From us, however, they went to the place where some of the +Discovery's people were employed in taking water into their boat. The +officer of that party, not knowing that they had paid us so friendly +a visit, nor what their intent might be, fired a musquet in the air, +which sent them off with the greatest precipitation.</p> + +<p>Thus ended our first interview with the natives. Immediately after +their final retreat, judging that their fears would prevent their +remaining near enough to observe what was passing, I ordered the two +pigs, being a boar and sow, to be carried about a mile within the +woods at the head of the bay. I saw them left there, by the side of a +fresh-water brook. A young bull and a cow, and some sheep and goats, +were also, at first, intended to have been left by me, as an +additional present to Van Diemen's Land. But I soon laid aside all +thought of this, from a persuasion that the natives, incapable of +entering into my views of improving their country, would destroy +them. If ever they should meet with the pigs, I have no doubt this +will be their fate. But as that race of animals soon becomes wild, +and is fond of the thickest cover of the woods, there is great +probability of their being preserved. An open place must have been +chosen for the accommodation of the other cattle; and, in such a +situation, they could not possibly have remained concealed many +days.</p> + +<p>The morning of the 29th was ushered in with a dead calm, which +continued all day, and effectually prevented our sailing. I therefore +sent a party over to the E. point of the bay to cut grass, having +been informed that some of a superior quality grew there. Another +party, to cut wood, was ordered to go to the usual place, and I +accompanied them myself. We had observed several of the natives this +morning sauntering along the shore, which assured us, that though +their consternation had made them leave us so abruptly the day +before, they were convinced that we intended them no mischief, and +were desirous of renewing the intercourse. It was natural that I +should wish to be present on the occasion.</p> + +<p>We had not been long landed, before about twenty of them, men and +boys, joined us, without expressing the least sign of fear or +distrust. There was one of this company conspicuously deformed, and +who was not more distinguishable by the hump upon his back, than by +the drollery of his gestures, and the seeming humour of his speeches, +which he was very fond of exhibiting, as we supposed, for our +entertainment. But, unfortunately, we could not understand him; the +language spoken here being wholly unintelligible to us. It appeared +to me to be different from that spoken by the inhabitants of the more +northern parts of this country, whom I met with in my first voyage; +which is not extraordinary, since those we now saw, and those we then +visited, differ in many other respects.[130] Nor did they seem to be +such miserable wretches as the natives whom Dampier mentions to have +seen on its western coast.[131]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 130: The most striking difference seems to be +with regard to the texture of the hair. The natives whom Captain Cook +met with at Endeavour River in 1769, are said, by him, to have +"naturally long and black hair, though it be universally cropped +short. In general it is straight, but sometimes it has a slight curl. +We saw none that was not matted and filthy. Their beards were of the +same colour with the hair, and bushy and thick." + +<p>It may be necessary to mention here, on the authority of Captain +King, that Captain Cook was very unwilling to allow that the hair of +the natives now met with in Adventure Bay was <i>woolly</i>, fancying +that his people, who first observed this, had been deceived, from its +being clotted with grease and red ochre. But Captain King prevailed +upon him afterward to examine carefully the hair of the boys, which +was generally, as well as that of the women, free from this dirt; and +then he owned himself satisfied that it was naturally <i>woolly</i>. +Perhaps we may suppose it possible, that he himself had been deceived +when he was in Endeavour River, from this very circumstance, as he +expressly says, that "they saw none that was not matted and +filthy."--D.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 131: And yet Dampier's New Hollanders, on the +western coast, bear a striking resemblance to Captain Cook's at Van +Diemen's Land, in many remarkable instances:-- + +<p>1st, As to their becoming familiar with the strangers.</p> + +<p>2dly, As to their persons; being straight-bodied and thin, their +skin black, and black, short, curled hair, like the negroes of +Guinea, with wide mouths.</p> + +<p>3dly, As to their wretched condition, having no houses, no +garment, no canoes, no instrument to catch large fish; feeding on +broiled muscles, cockles, and periwinkles; having no fruits of the +earth; their weapons a straight pole, sharpened and hardened at the +end, etc. etc.</p> + +<p>The chief peculiarities of Dampier's <i>miserable wretches</i> +are, 1st, Their eye-lids being always half closed, to keep the flies +out, which were excessively troublesome there; and, 2dly, Their +wanting the two fore-teeth of the upper jaw, and their having no +beards. See Dampier's Voyages, vol. i. p. 464, etc. There seems to be +no reason for supposing that Dampier was mistaken in the above +account of what he saw.--D.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>Some of our present group wore, loose, round their necks, three or +four folds of small cord, made of the fur of some animal; and others +of them had a narrow slip of the kangooroo skin tied round their +ankles. I gave to each of them a string of beads and a medal, which I +thought they received with some satisfaction. They seemed to set no +value on iron, or on iron tools. They were even ignorant of the use +of fish-hooks, if we might judge from their manner of looking at some +of ours which we shewed to them.</p> + +<p>We cannot, however, suppose it to be possible that a people who +inhabit a sea-coast, and who seem to derive no part of their +sustenance from the productions of the ground, should not be +acquainted with some mode of catching fish, though we did not happen +to see any of them thus employed, nor observe any canoe, or vessel, +in which they could go upon the water. Though they absolutely +rejected the sort of fish that we offered to them, it was evident +that shell-fish, at least, made a part of their food, from the many +heaps of muscle-shells we saw in different parts near the shore, and +about some deserted habitations near the head of the bay. These were +little sheds, or hovels, built of sticks, and covered with bark. We +could also perceive evident signs of their sometimes taking up their +abode in the trunks of large trees, which had been hollowed out by +fire, most probably for this very purpose. In or near all these +habitations, and wherever there was a heap of shells, there remained +the marks of fire, an indubitable proof that they do not eat their +food raw.</p> + +<p>After staying about an hour with the wooding party and the +natives, as I could now be pretty confident that the latter were not +likely to give the former any disturbance, I left them, and went over +to the grass-cutters on the east point of the bay, and found that +they had met with a fine patch. Having seen the boats loaded, I left +that party, and returned on board to dinner; where, some time after, +Lieutenant King arrived.</p> + +<p>From him I learnt, that I had but just left the shore, when +several women and children made their appearance, and were introduced +to him by some of the men who attended them. He gave presents to all +of them, of such trifles as he had about him. These females wore a +kangooroo skin (in the same shape as it came from the animal) tied +over the shoulders, and round the waist. But its only use seemed to +be to support their children when carried on their backs, for it did +not cover those parts which most nations conceal; being, in all other +respects, as naked as the men, and as black, and their bodies marked +with scars in the same manner. But in this they differed from the +men, that though their hair was of the same colour and texture, some +of them had their heads completely shorn or shaved; in others this +operation had been performed only on one side, while the rest of them +had all the upper part of the head shorn close, leaving a circle of +hair all round, somewhat like the tonsure of the Romish +ecclesiastics.[132] Many of the children had fine features, and were +thought pretty; but of the persons of the women, especially those +advanced in years, a less favourable report was made. However, some +of the gentlemen belonging to the Discovery, I was told, paid their +addresses, and made liberal offers of presents, which were rejected +with great disdain; whether from a sense of virtue, or the fear of +displeasing their men, I shall not pretend to determine. That this +gallantry was not very agreeable to the latter, is certain; for an +elderly man, as soon as he observed it, ordered all the women and +children to retire, which they obeyed, though some of them shewed a +little reluctance.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 132: Captain Cook's account of the natives of +Van Diemen's Land, in this chapter, no doubt proves that they differ, +in many respects, as he says, from the inhabitants of the more +northerly parts of the east coast of New Holland, whom he met with in +his first voyage. It seems very remarkable, however, that the only +woman any of his people came close to, in Botany Bay, should have her +hair cropped short, while the man who was with her, is said to have +had the hair of his head bushy, and his beard long and rough. Could +the natives of Van Diemen's Land be more accurately described, than +by saying that the hair of the men's heads is bushy, and their beards +long and rough, and that the women's hair is cropped short? So far +north, therefore, as Botany Bay, the natives of the east coast of New +Holland seem to resemble those of Van Diemen's Land, in this +circumstance.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>This conduct of Europeans amongst savages, to their women, is +highly blameable; as it creates a jealousy in their men, that may be +attended with consequences fatal to the success of the common +enterprise, and to the whole body of adventurers, without advancing +the private purpose of the individual, or enabling him to gain the +object of his wishes. I believe it has been generally found among +uncivilized people, that where the women are easy of access, the men +are the first to offer them to strangers; and that, where this is not +the case, neither the allurement of presents, nor the opportunity of +privacy, will be likely to have the desired effect. This observation, +I am sure, will hold good, throughout all the parts of the South Sea +where I have been. Why then should men act so absurd a part, as to +risk their own safety, and that of all their companions, in pursuit +of a gratification which they have no probability of +obtaining?[133]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 133: In uncivilized nations, the women are +completely subservient to the power and desires of the men, without +seeming to possess, or to be allowed, a will or thought of their own. +Amongst them, therefore, the primitive mode of temptation must be +reversed, and the husband is first to be gained over. When this is +done, all that follows, is understood and intended by him, as a sort +of temporary barter; and the favours of his wife, or daughter, are +valued by him just in the proportion they are sought for by those +with whom he is dealing. But where his animal necessities can +scarcely be supplied, it cannot be imagined that he will be very +sensible to the force of toys and trinkets as objects of temptation. +These, on the other hand, will carry most persuasion, where, through +the greater bounty of nature, an avenue has been opened for the +display of vanity and the love of ornament. Any opposition on the +female part in either case, is of no avail as a barrier against +strangers, as he who is most concerned to protect it, finds his +account in its sacrifice. We have instances of both in Captain Cook's +voyages.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the afternoon I went again to the grass-cutters, to forward +their work. I found them then upon Penguin Island, where they had met +with a plentiful crop of excellent grass. We laboured hard till +sun-set, and then repaired on board, satisfied with the quantity we +had collected, and which I judged sufficient to last till our arrival +in New Zealand.</p> + +<p>During our whole stay, we had either calms or light airs from the +eastward. Little or no time, therefore, was lost by my putting in at +this place. For if I had kept the sea, we should not have been twenty +leagues advanced farther on our voyage. And, short as our continuance +was here, it has enabled me to add somewhat to the imperfect +acquaintance that hath hitherto been acquired, with this part of the +globe.</p> + +<p>Van Diemen's Land has been twice visited before. It was so named +by Tasman, who discovered it in November 1642. From that time it had +escaped all farther notice by European navigators, till Captain +Furneaux touched at it in March 1773.[134] I hardly need say, that it +is the southern point of New Holland, which, if it doth not deserve +the name of a continent, is by far the largest island in the +world.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 134: This is a mistake, though unintentional, +no doubt, and ignorantly on the part of Cook. Captain Marion, a +French navigator, and mentioned occasionally in these voyages, +visited Van Diemen's Land about a twelve-month before Captain +Furneaux. The account of his voyage was published at Paris in 1783, +but is little known in England; for which reason, and because of its +possessing a considerable degree of interest, Captain Flinders has +given an abridgment of that portion of its contents which respects +the land in question. This the reader will find in his introduction, +p. 83, or he may content himself with being informed, that the +description it gives of the natives, etc, generally coincides with +what is furnished in the text. Subsequent to this voyage, it may be +remarked, Captain Bligh put into Adventure Bay with his majesty's +ship Bounty, viz. in 1788: and afterwards, viz. in 1792, the coast of +Van Diemen's Land was visited by the French Rear-Admiral +D'Entrecasteaux.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The land is, for the most part, of a good height, diversified with +hills and valleys, and every where of a greenish hue. It is well +wooded; and, if one may judge from appearances, and from what we met +with in Adventure Bay, is not ill supplied with water. We found +plenty of it in three or four places in this bay. The best, or what +is most convenient for ships that touch here, is a rivulet, which is +one of several that fall into a pond, that lies behind the beach at +the head of the bay. It there mixes with the sea-water, so that it +must be taken up above this pond, which may be done without any great +trouble. Fire-wood is to be got, with great ease, in several +places.</p> + +<p>The only wind to which this bay is exposed, is the N.E. But as +this wind blows from Maria's Islands, it can bring no very great sea +along with it; and therefore, upon the whole, this may be accounted a +very safe road. The bottom is clean, good holding ground; and the +depth of water from twelve to five and four fathoms.</p> + +<p>Captain Furneaux's sketch of Van Diemen's Land, published with the +narrative of my last voyage, appears to me to be without any material +error, except with regard to Maria's Islands, which have a different +situation from what is there represented.[135] The longitude was +determined by a great number of lunar observations, which we had +before we made the land, while we were in sight of it, and after we +had left it; and reduced to Adventure Bay, and the several principal +points, by the time-keeper. The following table will exhibit both the +longitude and latitude at one view:</p> + +<p>Latitude South. Longitude East: Adventure Bay, 43° 21' 20" +147° 29' 0" Tasman's Head, 43 33 0 147 28 0 South Cape, 43 42 0 +146 56 0 South-west Cape, 43 37 0 146 7 0 Swilly Isle, 43 55 0 147 6 +0</p> + +<p>Adventure { Variation of the compass 5° 15' E. Bay, { Dip of +the south end of the needle 70° 15 1/2'.</p> + +<p>We had high-water on the 29th, being two days before the last +quarter of the moon, at nine in the morning. The perpendicular rise +then was eighteen inches, and there was no appearance of its ever +having exceeded two feet and a half. These are all the memorials +useful to navigation, which my short stay has enabled me to preserve, +with respect to Van Diemen's Land.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 135: But Captain Flinders has pointed out some +other mistakes, especially as to the Storm and Frederik Hendrik's +Bays of Tasman, in which, says he, "He has been followed by all the +succeeding navigators, of the same nation, which has created not a +little confusion in the geography of this part of the world." Let us +prevent the perpetuity of errors, by quoting another passage from the +same most accurate and skilful navigator. "The bay supposed to have +been Storm Bay, has no name in Tasman's chart; though the particular +plan shews that he noticed it, as did Marion, more distinctly. The +rocks marked at the east point of this bay, and called the Friars, +are the <i>Boreal's Eylanden</i> of Tasman; the true Storm Bay is the +deep inlet, of which Adventure Bay is a cove. Frederik Hendrik's Bay +is not within this inlet, but lies to the north-eastward, on the +outer side of the land which Captain Furneaux, in consequence of his +first mistake, took to be Maria's Island, but which, in fact, is a +part of the main land." A copy of Tasman's charts is given in the +atlas to D'Entrecasteaux's voyage; it is taken from Valantyn, and is +conformable to the manuscript charts in the Dutch journal. But +according to Flinders, it has an error of one degree too much east, +in the scale of longitude. Besides, he informs us, "In the plan of +Frederik Hendrik's Bay, the name is placed <i>within</i> the inner +bay, instead of being written, as in the original, on the point of +land between the inner and outer bays." He imagines the name was +intended to comprise both, and refers to vol. iii. of Captain +Burney's History of Discoveries in the South Sea, for a copy of +Tasman's charts as they stand in the original.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Mr Anderson, my surgeon, with his usual diligence, spent the few +days we remained in Adventure Bay, in examining the country. His +account of its natural productions, with which he favoured me, will +more than compensate for my silence about them: Some of his remarks +on the inhabitants will supply what I may have omitted, or +represented imperfectly; and his specimen of their language, however +short, will be thought worth attending to, by those who wish to +collect materials for tracing the origin of nations. I shall only +premise, that the tall strait forest trees, which Mr Anderson +describes in the following account, are of a different sort from +those which are found in the more northern parts of this coast. The +wood is very long and close-grained, extremely tough, fit for spars, +oars, and many other uses; and would, on occasion, make good masts, +(perhaps none better,) if a method could be found to lighten it.</p> + +<p>"At the bottom of Adventure Bay is a beautiful sandy beach, which +seems to be wholly formed by the particles washed by the sea from a +very fine white sand-stone, that in many places bounds the shore, and +of which Fluted Cape, in the neighbourhood, from its appearance, +seems to be composed. This beach is about two miles long, and is +excellently adapted for hauling a seine, which both ships did +repeatedly with success. Behind this is a plain or flat, with a salt, +or rather brackish lake (running in length parallel with the beach), +out of which we caught, with angling rods, many whitish bream, and +some small trout. The other parts of the country adjoining the bay +are quite hilly; and both those and the flat are an entire forest of +very tall trees, rendered almost impassable by shrubs, brakes of +fern, and fallen trees; except on the sides of some of the hills, +where the trees are but thin, and a coarse grass is the only +interruption."</p> + +<p>"To the northward of the bay there is low land, stretching farther +than the eye can reach, which is only covered with wood in certain +spots; but we had no opportunity to examine in what respects it +differed from the hilly country. The soil on the flat land is either +sandy, or consists of a yellowish mould, and, in some places, of a +reddish clay. The same is found on the lower part of the hills; but +farther up, especially where there are few trees, it is of a grey +tough cast, to appearance very poor."</p> + +<p>"In the valleys between the hills, the water drains down from +their sides; and at last, in some places, forms small brooks; such, +indeed, as were sufficient to supply us with water, but by no means +of that size we might expect in so extensive a country, especially as +it is both hilly and well wooded. Upon the whole, it has many marks +of being naturally a very dry country; and perhaps might (independent +of its wood) be compared to Africa, about the Cape of Good Hope, +though that lies ten degrees farther northward, rather than to New +Zealand, on its other side, in the same latitude, where we find every +valley, however small, furnished with a considerable stream of water. +The heat, too, appears to be great, as the thermometer stood at 64, +70, and once at 74. And it was remarked, that birds were seldom +killed an hour or two, before they were almost covered with small +maggots, which I would rather attribute merely to the heat; as we had +not any reason to suppose there is a peculiar disposition in the +climate to render substances soon putrid."</p> + +<p>"No mineral bodies, nor indeed stones of any other sort but the +white sand one already mentioned, were observed.</p> + +<p>"Amongst the vegetable productions, there is not one, that we +could find, which afforded the smallest subsistence for man."</p> + +<p>"The forest trees are all of one sort, growing to a great height, +and in general quite straight, branching but little, till toward the +top. The bark is white, which makes them appear, at a distance, as if +they had been peeled; it is also thick; and within it are sometimes +collected, pieces of a reddish transparent gum or rosin, which has an +astringent taste. The leaves of this tree are long, narrow, and +pointed; and it bears clusters of small white flowers, whose cups +were, at this time, plentifully scattered about the ground, with +another sort resembling them somewhat in shape, but much larger; +which makes it probable that there are two <i>species</i> of this +tree. The bark of the smaller branches, fruit, and leaves, have an +agreeable pungent taste, and aromatic smell, not unlike peppermint; +and in its nature, it has some affinity to the <i>myrtus</i> of +botanists."</p> + +<p>"The most common tree, next to this, is a small one about ten feet +high, branching pretty much, with narrow leaves, and a large, yellow, +cylindrical flower, consisting only of a vast number of filaments; +which, being shed, leave a fruit like a pine-top. Both the +above-mentioned trees are unknown in Europe."</p> + +<p>"The underwood consists chiefly of a shrub somewhat resembling a +myrtle, and which seems to be the <i>leptospermum scoparium</i>, +mentioned in Dr Foster's <i>Char. Gen. Plant.</i>; and, in some +places, of another, rather smaller, which is a new <i>species</i> of +the <i>melaleuca</i> of Linnaeus."</p> + +<p>"Of other plants, which are by no means numerous, there is a +<i>species</i> of <i>gladiolus</i>, rush, bell-flower, samphire, a +small sort of wood-sorrel, milk-wort, cudweed, and Job's tears; with +a few others, peculiar to the place. There are several kinds of fern, +as polypody, spleenwort, female fern, and some mosses; but the +<i>species</i> are either common, or at least found in some other +countries, especially New Zealand."</p> + +<p>"The only animal of the quadruped kind we got, was a sort of +<i>opossum</i>, about twice the size of a large rat; and is, most +probably, the male of that <i>species</i> found at Endeavour river, +as mentioned in Cook's first voyage. It is of a dusky colour above, +tinged with a brown or rusty cast, and whitish below. About a third +of the tail, towards its tip, is white, and bare underneath; by which +it probably hangs on the branches of trees, as it climbs these, and +lives on berries. The <i>kangooroo</i>, another animal found farther +northward in New Holland, as described in the same voyage, without +all doubt also inhabits here, as the natives we met with had some +pieces of their skins; and we several times saw animals, though +indistinctly, run from the thickets when we walked in the woods, +which, from the size, could be no other. It should seem also, that +they are in considerable numbers, from the dung we saw almost every +where, and from the narrow tracks or paths they have made amongst the +shrubbery."</p> + +<p>"There are several sorts of birds, but all so scarce and shy, that +they are evidently harrassed by the natives, who, perhaps, draw much +of their subsistence from them. In the woods, the principal sorts are +large brown hawks or eagles; crows, nearly the same as ours in +England; yellowish paroquets; and large pigeons. There are also three +or four small birds, one of which is of the thrush kind; and another +small one, with a pretty long tail, has part of the head and neck of +a most beautiful azure colour; from whence we named it <i>motacilla +cyanea</i>. On the shore were several common and sea gulls; a few +black oyster-catchers, or sea-pies; and a pretty plover of a stone +colour, with a black hood. About the pond or lake behind the beach, a +few wild-ducks were seen; and some shags used to perch upon the high +leafless trees near the shore."</p> + +<p>"Some pretty large blackish snakes were seen in the woods; and we +killed a large, hitherto unknown, lizard, fifteen inches long, and +six round, elegantly clouded with black and yellow; besides a small +sort, of a brown gilded colour above, and rusty below."</p> + +<p>"The sea affords a much greater plenty, and at least as great a +variety, as the land. Of these the elephant fish, or +<i>pejegallo</i>, mentioned in Frezier's voyage,[136] are the most +numerous; and though inferior to many other fish, were very palatable +food. Several large rays, nurses, and small leather-jackets, were +caught; with some small white bream, which were firmer and better +than those caught in the lake. We likewise got a few soles and +flounders; two sorts of gurnards, one of them a new <i>species</i>; +some small spotted mullet; and, very unexpectedly, the small fish +with a silver band on its side, called <i>atherina hipsetus</i> by +Hasseiquist."[137]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 136: Tom. ii. p. 211. 12mo. Planche +XVII.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 137: <i>Iter Palastinum</i>.]</blockquote> + +<p>"But that next in number, and superior in goodness, to the +elephant fish, was a sort none of us recollected to have seen before. +It partakes of the nature both of a round and of a flat fish, having +the eyes placed very near each other; the fore-part of the body much +flattened or depressed, and the rest rounded. It is of a brownish +sandy colour, with rusty spots on the upper part, and whitish below. +From the quantity of slime it was always covered with, it seems to +live after the manner of flat fish, at the bottom."</p> + +<p>"Upon the rocks are plenty of muscles, and some other small +shell-fish. There are also great numbers of sea-stars; some small +limpets; and large quantities of sponge; one sort of which, that is +thrown on shore by the sea, but not very common, has a most delicate +texture; and another, is the <i>spongia dichotoma</i>."</p> + +<p>"Many pretty <i>Medusa's heads</i> were found upon the beach; and +the stinking <i>laplysia</i> or sea-hare, which, as mentioned by some +authors, has the property of taking off the hair by the acrimony of +its juice; but this sort was deficient in this respect."</p> + +<p>"Insects, though not numerous, are here in considerable variety. +Amongst them are grasshoppers, butterflies, and several sorts of +small moths, finely variegated. There are two sorts of dragon-flies, +gad-flies, camel-flies; several sorts of spiders; and some scorpions; +but the last are rather rare. The most troublesome, though not very +numerous tribe of insects, are the musquitoes; and a large black ant, +the pain of whose bite is almost intolerable, during the short time +it lasts. The musquitoes, also, make up the deficiency of their +number, by the severity of their venomous <i>proboscis</i>."</p> + +<p>"The inhabitants whom we met with here, had little of that fierce +or wild appearance common to people in their situation; but, on the +contrary, seemed mild and cheerful, without reserve or jealousy of +strangers. This, however, may arise from their having little to lose +or care for."</p> + +<p>"With respect to personal activity or genius, we can say but +little of either. They do not seem to possess the first in any +remarkable degree; and as for the last, they have, to appearance, +less than even the half-animated inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, who +have not invention sufficient to make clothing for defending +themselves from the rigour of their climate, though furnished with +the materials. The small stick, rudely pointed, which one of them +carried in his hand, was the only thing we saw that required any +mechanical exertion, if we except the fixing on the feet of some of +them pieces of <i>kangooroo</i> skin, tied with thongs; though it +could not be learnt whether these were in use as shoes, or only to +defend some sore. It must be owned, however, they are masters of some +contrivance in the manner of cutting their arms and bodies in lines +of different lengths and directions, which are raised considerably +above the surface of the skin, so that it is difficult to guess the +method they use in executing this embroidery of their persons. Their +not expressing that surprise which one might have expected from their +seeing men so much unlike themselves, and things, to which, we were +well assured, they had been hitherto utter strangers; their +indifference for our presents; and their general inattention; were +sufficient proofs of their not possessing any acuteness of +understanding."</p> + +<p>"Their colour is a dull black, and not quite so deep as that of +the African negroes. It should seem also, that they sometimes +heightened their black colour, by smutting their bodies; as a mark +was left behind on any clean substance, such as white paper, when +they handled it. Their hair, however, is perfectly woolly, and it is +clotted or divided into small parcels, like that of the Hottentots, +with the use of some sort of grease, mixed with a red paint or ochre, +which they smear in great abundance over their heads. This practice, +as some might imagine, has not the effect of changing their hair into +the frizzling texture we observed; for, on examining the head of a +boy, which appeared never to have been smeared, I found the hair to +be of the same kind. Their noses, though not flat, are broad and +full. The lower part of the face projects a good deal, as is the case +of more Indians I have seen; so that a line let fall from the +forehead would cut off a much larger portion, than it would in +Europeans. Their eyes are of a middling size, with the white less +clear than in us; and though not remarkably quick or piercing, such +as give a frank cheerful cast to the whole countenance. Their teeth +are broad, but not equal, nor well set; and, either from nature or +from dirt, not of so true a white as is usual among people of a black +colour. Their mouths are rather wide; but this appearance seems +heightened by wearing their beards long, and clotted with paint, in +the same manner as the hair on their heads. In other respects, they +are well-proportioned; though the belly seems rather projecting. This +may be owing to the want of compression there, which few nations do +not use, more or less. The posture of which they seem fondest, is to +stand with one side forward, or the upper part of the body gently +reclined, and one hand grasping (across the back) the opposite arm, +which hangs down by the projecting side."</p> + +<p>"What the ancient poets tell us of <i>Fauns</i> and <i>Satyrs</i> +living in hollow trees, is here realized. Some wretched constructions +of sticks, covered with bark, which do not even deserve the name of +huts, were indeed found near the shore in the bay; but these seemed +only to have been erected for temporary purposes; and many of their +largest trees were converted into more comfortable habitations. These +had their trunks hollowed out by fire, to the height of six or seven +feet; and that they take up their abode in them sometimes, was +evident from the hearths, made of clay, to contain the fire in the +middle, leaving room for four or five persons to sit round it.[138] +At the same time, these places of shelter are durable; for they take +care to leave one side of the tree sound, which is sufficient to keep +it growing as luxuriantly as those which remain untouched."</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 138: Tasman, when in the bay of Frederick +Henry, adjoining to Adventure Bay, found two trees, one of which was +two fathoms, and the other two fathoms and a half in girth, and sixty +or sixty-five feet high, from the root to the branches.--See his +Voyage, in Harris's Collection, Campbell's Edition, vol. i. p. +326.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>"The inhabitants of this place are, doubtless, from the same stock +with those of the northern parts of New Holland. Though some of the +circumstances mentioned by Dampier, relative to those he met with on +the western coast of this country, such as their defective sight, and +want of fore-teeth, are not found here; and though Hawkesworth's +account of those met with by Captain Cook on the east side, shews +also that they differ in many respects; yet still, upon the whole, I +am persuaded that distance of place, entire separation, diversity of +climate, and length of time, all concurring to operate, will account +for greater differences, both as to their persons and as to their +customs, than really exist between our Van Diemen's Land natives, and +those described by Dampier, and in Captain Cook's first voyage. This +is certain, that the figure of one of those seen in Endeavour River, +and represented in Sidney Parkinson's Journal of that voyage, very +much resembles our visitors in Adventure Bay. That there is not the +like resemblance in their language, is a circumstance that need not +create any difficulty. For though the agreement of the languages of +people living distant from each other, may be assumed as a strong +argument for their having sprung from one common source, disagreement +of language is by no means a proof of the contrary."[139]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 139: The ingenious author of +<i>Récherches sur les Americains</i> illustrates the grounds +of this assertion in the following satisfactory manner: "C'est +quelque chose de surprenant, que la foule des idiomes, tous +variés entr'eux, que parlent les naturels de l'Amérique +Septentrionale. Qu'on reduise ces idiomes à des racines qu'on +les simplifie, qu'on en separe les dialectes et les jargons +derivés, il en resulte toujours cinq ou six languesmeres, +respectivement incomprehensibles. On a observé la même +singularité dans la Siberie et la Tartarie, où le +nombre des idiomes, et les dialectes, est également +multiplié; et rien n'est plus commun, que d'y voir deux hordes +voisines qui ne se comprennent point. On rétrouve cette +même multiplicité de jargons dans toutes les Provinces +de l'Amérique Méridionale." [He might also have +included Africa.] "Il y a beaucoup d'apparence que <i>la vie sauvage, +en dispersant les hommes par petites troupes isolées dans des +bois épais, occasione nécessairement cette grande +diversité des langues</i>, dont le nombre diminue à +mésure que la société, en rassemblant les +barbares vagabonds, en forme un corps de nation. Alors l'idiome le +plus riche, ou le moins panvre en mots, devient dominant, et absorbe +les autres." Tom. i. p. 159, 160.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>"However, we must have a far more intimate acquaintance with the +languages spoken here, and in the more northern parts of New Holland, +before we can be warranted to pronounce that they are totally +different. Nay, we have good grounds for the opposite opinion; for we +found that the animal called <i>kangooroo</i> at Endeavour river, was +known under the same name here; and I need not observe, that it is +scarcely possible to suppose that this was not transmitted from one +another, but accidentally adopted by two nations, differing in +language and extraction. Besides, as it seems very improbable that +the Van Diemen's Land inhabitants should have ever lost the use of +canoes or sailing vessels, if they had been originally conveyed +thither by sea, we must necessarily admit that they, as well as the +<i>kangooroo</i> itself, have been stragglers by land from the more +northern parts of the country. And if there be any force in this +observation, while it traces the origin of the people, it will, at +the same time, serve to fix another point, if Captain Cook and +Captain Furneaux have not already decided it, that New Holland is no +where totally divided by the sea into islands, as some have +imagined."[140]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 140: The reader is aware of the erroneous +opinion generally entertained at this time, of Van Diemen's Land +being connected with the continent of New Holland. He will therefore +modify the remark above given, as to its inhabitants being stragglers +by land from the more northern parts of the country. It is of some +consequence also to inform him, that in the visit of D'Entrecasteaux, +it was found that the people who inhabited the shores of the channel +were in possession of bark canoes.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>"As the New Hollanders seem all to be of the same extraction, so +neither do I think there is any thing peculiar in them. On the +contrary, they much resemble many of the inhabitants whom I have seen +at the islands Tanna and Mallicolla. Nay, there is even some +foundation for hazarding a supposition, that they may have originally +come from the same place with all the inhabitants of the South Sea. +For, of only about ten words which we could get from them, that which +expresses <i>cold</i>, differs little from that of New Zealand and +Otaheite; the first being <i>Mallareede</i>, the second +<i>Makkareede</i>, and the third <i>Mareede</i>. The rest of our very +scanty Van Diemen's Land Vocabulary is as follows:</p> + +<pre> + Quadne, <i>A woman.</i> + Everai, <i>The eye.</i> + Muidje, <i>The nose.</i> + Kamy, <i>The teeth, mouth, or tongue</i>. + Laerenne, <i>A small bird, a native of the woods here</i>. + Koygee, <i>The ear</i>. + Noonga, <i>Elevated scars on the body</i>. + Teegera, <i>To eat</i>. + Togarago, <i>I must begone,</i> or, <i>I will go</i>. +</pre> + +<p>"Their pronunciation is not disagreeable; but rather quick; though +not more so than is that of other nations of the South Sea; and, if +we may depend upon the affinity of languages as a clue to guide us in +discovering the origin of nations, I have no doubt but we shall find, +on a diligent enquiry, and when opportunities offer to collect +accurately a sufficient number of these words, and to compare them, +that all the people from New Holland, eastward to Easter Island, have +been derived from the same common root."[141]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 141: We find Mr Anderson's notions on this +subject conformable to those of Mr Marsden, who has remarked, "that +one general language prevailed (however mutilated and changed in the +course of time) throughout all this portion of the world, from +Madagascar to the most distant discoveries eastward; of which the +Malay is a dialect, much corrupted or refined by a mixture of other +tongues. This very extensive similarity of language indicates a +common origin of the inhabitants; but the circumstances and progress +of their separation are wrapped in the darkest veil of +obscurity."--<i>History of Sumatra</i>, p. 35. + +<p>See also his very curious paper, read before the Society of +Antiquaries, and published in their <i>Archaeologia</i>, vol. vi, p. +155; where his sentiments on this subject are explained more at +large, and illustrated by two Tables of corresponding Words.--D.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION VII.</p> + +<p><i>The Passage from Van Diemen's Land to New Zealand.--Employments +in Queen Charlotte's Sound.--Transactions with the Natives +there.--Intelligence about the Massacre of the Adventure's Boat's +Crew.--Account of the Chief who headed the Party on that +occasion.--Of the two young Men who embark to attend Omai.--Various +Remarks on the Inhabitants.--Astronomical and Nautical +Observations.</i></p> + +<p>At eight o'clock in the morning of the 30th of January, a light +breeze springing up at W., we weighed anchor, and put to sea from +Adventure Bay. Soon after, the wind veered to the southward, and +increased to a perfect storm. Its fury abated in the evening, when it +veered to the E, and N.E.</p> + +<p>This gale was indicated by the barometer, for the wind no sooner +began to blow, than the mercury in the tube began to fall. Another +remarkable thing attended the coming on of this wind, which was very +faint at first. It brought with it a degree of heat that was almost +intolerable. The mercury in the thermometer rose, as it were +instantaneously, from about 70° to near 90°. This heat was of +so short a continuance, that it seemed to be wafted away before the +breeze that brought it; so that some on board did not perceive +it.</p> + +<p>We pursued our course to the eastward, without meeting with any +thing worthy of note, till the night between the 6th and 7th of +February, when a marine belonging to the Discovery fell over-board, +and was never seen afterward. This was the second misfortune of the +kind that had happened to Captain Clerke since he left England.</p> + +<p>On the 10th, at four in the afternoon, we discovered the land of +New Zealand. The part we saw proved to be Rock's Point, and bore S.E. +by S., about eight or nine leagues distant. During this run from Van +Diemen's Land, the wind, for the first four or five days, was at +N.E., N., and N.N.W., and blew, for the most part, a gentle breeze. +It afterward veered to S.E., where it remained twenty-four hours. It +then came to W. and S.W.; in which points it continued, with very +little deviation, till we reached New Zealand.</p> + +<p>After making the land, I steered for Cape Farewell, which at +day-break the next morning bore S. by W., distant about four leagues. +At eight o'clock, it bore S.W. by S., about five leagues distant; +and, in this situation, we had forty-five fathoms water over a sandy +bottom. In rounding the Cape we had fifty fathoms, and the same sort +of bottom.</p> + +<p>I now steered for Stephens's Island, which we came up with at nine +o'clock at night; and at ten, next morning, anchored in our old +station, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Unwilling to lose any time, our +operations commenced that very afternoon, when we landed a number of +empty water-casks, and began to clear a place where we might set up +the two observatories, and tents for the reception of a guard, and of +such of our people whose business might make it necessary for them to +remain on shore.</p> + +<p>We had not been long at anchor before several canoes, filled-with +natives, came along-side of the ships; but very few of them would +venture on board; which appeared the more extraordinary, as I was +well known to them all. There w as one man in particular amongst +them, whom I had treated with remarkable kindness, during the whole +of my stay when I was last here. Yet now, neither professions of +friendship, nor presents, could prevail upon him to come into the +ship. This shyness was to be accounted for only upon this +supposition, that they were apprehensive we had revisited their +country, in order to revenge the death of Captain Furneaux's people. +Seeing Omai on board my ship now, whom they must have remembered to +have seen on board the Adventure when the melancholy affair happened, +and whose first conversation with them, as they approached, generally +turned on that subject, they must be well assured that I was no +longer a stranger to it. I thought it necessary, therefore, to use +every endeavour to assure them of the continuance of my friendship, +and that I should not disturb them on that account. I do not know +whether this had any weight with them; but certain it is, that they +very soon laid aside all manner of restraint and distrust.</p> + +<p>On the 13th we set up two tents, one from each ship, on the same +spot where we had pitched them formerly. The observatories were at +the same time erected; and Messrs King and Bayly began their +operations immediately, to find the rate of the time-keeper, and to +make other observations. The remainder of the empty water-casks were +also sent on shore, with the cooper to trim, and a sufficient number +of sailors to fill them. Two men were appointed to brew spruce beer; +and the carpenter and his crew were ordered to cut wood. A boat, with +a party of men, under the direction of one of the mates, was sent to +collect grass for our cattle; and the people that remained on board +were employed in refitting the ship, and arranging the provisions. In +this manner we were all profitably busied during our stay. For the +protection of the party on shore, I appointed a guard of ten marines, +and ordered arms for all the workmen; and Mr King, and two or three +petty officers, constantly remained with them. A boat was never sent +to any considerable distance from the ships without being armed, and +under direction of such officers as I could depend upon, and who were +well acquainted with the natives. During my former visits to this +country, I had never taken some of these precautions; nor were they, +I firmly believe, more necessary now than they had been formerly. But +after the tragical fate of the Adventure's boat's crew in this sound, +and of Captain Marion du Fresne, and of some of his people, in the +Bay of Islands (in 1772), it was impossible totally to divest +ourselves of all apprehension of experiencing a similar calamity.</p> + +<p>If the natives entertained any suspicion of our revenging these +acts of barbarity, they very soon laid it aside. For, during the +course of this day, a great number of families came from different +parts or the coast, and took up their residence close to us; so that +there was not a spot in the cove where a hut could be put up, that +was not occupied by them, except the place where we had fixed our +little encampment. This they left us in quiet possession of; but they +came and took away the ruins of some old huts that were there, as +materials for their new erections.</p> + +<p>It is curious to observe with what facility they build these +occasional places of abode. I have seen above twenty of them erected +on a spot of ground, that, not an hour before, was covered with +shrubs and plants. They generally bring some part of the materials +with them; the rest they find upon the premises. I was present when a +number of people landed, and built one of these villages. The moment +the canoes reached the shore, the men leaped out, and at once took +possession of a piece of ground, by tearing up the plants and shrubs, +or sticking up some part of the framing of a hut. They then returned +to their canoes, and secured their weapons, by setting them up +against a tree, or placing them in such a position, that they could +be laid hold of in an instant. I took particular notice that no one +neglected this precaution. While the men were employed in raising the +huts, the women were not idle. Some were stationed to take care of +the canoes; others to secure the provisions, and the few utensils in +their possession; and the rest went to gather dry sticks, that a fire +might be prepared for dressing their victuals. As to the children, I +kept them, as also some of the more aged, sufficiently occupied in +scrambling for beads, till I had emptied my pockets, and then I left +them.</p> + +<p>These temporary habitations are abundantly sufficient to afford +shelter from the wind and rain, which is the only purpose they are +meant to answer. I observed that, generally, if not always, the same +tribe or family, though it were ever so large, associated and built +together; so that we frequently saw a village, as well as their +larger towns, divided into different districts, by low pallisades, or +some similar mode of separation.</p> + +<p>The advantage we received from the natives coming to live with us, +was not inconsiderable. For, every day, when the weather would +permit, some of them went out to catch fish; and we generally got, by +exchanges, a good share of the produce of their labours. This supply, +and what our own nets and lines afforded us, was so ample, that we +seldom were in want of fish. Nor was there any deficiency of other +refreshments. Celery, scurvy-grass, and portable soup were boiled +with the pease and wheat, for both ships' companies, every day daring +our whole stay; and they had spruce-beer for their drink. So that, if +any of our people had contracted the seeds of the scurvy, such a +regimen soon removed them. But the truth is, when we arrived here, +there were only two invalids (and these on board the Resolution) upon +the sick lists in both ships.</p> + +<p>Besides the natives who took up their abode close to us, we were +occasionally visited by others of them, whose residence was not far +off; and by some who lived more remote. Their articles of commerce +were, curiosities, fish, and women. The two first always came to a +good market, which the latter did not. The seamen had taken a kind of +dislike to these people, and were either unwilling, or afraid, to +associate with them; which produced this good effect, that I knew no +instance of a man's quitting his station, to go to their +habitations.</p> + +<p>A connection with women I allow, because I cannot prevent it; but +never encourage, because I always dread its consequences. I know, +indeed, that many men are of opinion, that such an intercourse is one +of our greatest securities amongst savages; and perhaps they who, +either from necessity or choice, are to remain and settle with them, +may find it so. But with travellers and transient visitors, such as +we were, it is generally otherwise; and, in our situation, a +connection with their women betrays more men than it saves. What else +can be reasonably expected, since all their views are selfish, +without the least mixture of regard or attachment? My own experience, +at least, which hath been pretty extensive, hath not pointed out to +me one instance to the contrary.[142]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 142: We ought to distinguish betwixt the +affection of the sexes, and those gross physical principles which +lead to their temporary intercourse. The latter exist, in some degree +or other, wherever the difference of sex is found; but the former is +the result of refinement in feeling, and a habit of reflection on +objects of common interest, which civilization alone can produce. +This is with respect to members of the same community; much more does +the rule hold where strangers are concerned. It is positively absurd +for them to expect affection, where the lawful and accustomed +possessors of the she-savage have never yet been fortunate enough to +elicit its display. Well, therefore, has Captain Cook remarked, that +the motives which lead to their occasional connexion are selfish, by +which must be understood, the mercenary nature of the principle which +actuates the female.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Amongst our occasional visitors was a chief named Kahoora, who, as +I was informed, headed the party that cut off Captain Furneaux's +people, and himself killed Mr Howe, the officer who commanded. To +judge of the character of Kahoora, by what I heard from many of his +countrymen, he seemed to be more feared than beloved amongst them. +Not satisfied with telling me that he was a very bad man, some of +them even importuned me to kill him; and, I believe, they were not a +little surprised that I did not listen to them; for, according to +their ideas of equity, this ought to have been done. But if I had +followed the advice of all our pretended friends, I might have +extirpated the whole race; for the people of each hamlet, or village, +by turns, applied to me to destroy the other. One would have almost +thought it impossible, that so striking a proof of the divided state +in which this miserable people live, could have been assigned. And +yet I was sure that I did not misconceive the meaning of those who +made these strange applications to me; for Omai, whose language was a +dialect of their own, and perfectly understood all that they said, +was our interpreter.</p> + +<p>On the 15th, I made an excursion in my boat to look for grass, and +visited the Hippah, or fortified village at the S.W. point of +Motuara, and the places where our gardens had been planted on that +island. There were no people at the former; but the houses and +pallisades had been rebuilt, and were now in a state of good repair; +and there were other evident marks of its having been inhabited not +long before. It would be unnecessary, at present, to give a +particular account of this Hippah, sufficient notice having been +taken of it in the account of my first voyage.</p> + +<p>When the Adventure arrived first at Queen Charlotte's Sound, in +1773, Mr Bayly fixed upon this place for making his observations; and +he, and the people with him, at their leisure hours, planted several +spots with English garden seeds. Not the least vestige of these now +remained. It is probable that they had been all rooted out to make +room for buildings, when the village was re-inhabited; for, at all +the other gardens then planted by Captain Furneaux, although now +wholly over-run with the weeds of the country, we found cabbages, +onions, leeks, purslain, radishes, mustard, etc. and a few potatoes. +These potatoes, which were first brought from the Cape of Good Hope, +had been greatly improved by change of soil; and, with proper +cultivation, would be superior to those produced in most other +countries. Though the New Zealanders are fond of this root, it was +evident that they had not taken the trouble to plant a single one +(much less any other of the articles which we had introduced); and if +it were not for the difficulty of clearing ground where potatoes had +been once planted, there would not have been any now remaining.</p> + +<p>On the 16th, at day-break, I set out with a party of men, in five +boats, to collect food for our cattle. Captain Clerke, and several of +the officers, Omai, and two of the natives, accompanied me. We +proceeded about three leagues up the sound, and then landed on the +east side, at a place where I had formerly been. Here we cut as much +grass as loaded the two launches.</p> + +<p>As we returned down the sound, we visited Grass Cove, the +memorable scene of the massacre of Captain Furneaux's people. Here I +met with my old friend Pedro, who was almost continually with me the +last time I was in this sound, and is mentioned in my History of that +Voyage. He, and another of his countrymen, received us on the beach, +armed with the pa-too and spear. Whether this form of reception was a +mark of their courtesy or of their fear, I cannot say; but I thought +they betrayed manifest signs of the latter. However, if they had any +apprehensions, a few presents soon removed them, and brought down to +the beach two or three more of the family; but the greatest part of +them remained out of sight.</p> + +<p>Whilst we were at this place, our curiosity prompted us to enquire +into the circumstances attending the melancholy fate of our +countrymen; and Omai was made use of as our interpreter for this +purpose. Pedro, and the rest of the natives present, answered all the +questions that were put to them on the subject, without reserve, and +like men who are under no dread of punishment for a crime of which +they are not guilty. For we already knew that none of them had been +concerned in the unhappy transaction. They told us, that while our +people were sitting at dinner, surrounded by several of the natives, +some of the latter stole, or snatched from them, some bread and fish, +for which they were beat. This being resented, a quarrel ensued, and +two New Zealanders were shot dead, by the only two musquets that were +fired. For before our people had time to discharge a third, or to +load again those that had been fired, the natives rushed in upon +them, overpowered them with their numbers, and put them all to death. +Pedro and his companions, besides relating the history of the +massacre, made us acquainted with the very spot that was the scene of +it. It is at the corner of the cove on the right hand. They pointed +to the place of the sun, to mark to us at what hour of the day it +happened; and, according to this, it must have been late in the +afternoon. They also shewed us the place where the boat lay; and it +appeared to be about two hundred yards distant from that where the +crew were seated. One of their number, a black servant of Captain +Furneaux, was left in the boat to take care of her.</p> + +<p>We were afterward told that this black was the cause of the +quarrel, which was said to have happened thus: One of the natives +stealing something out of the boat, the Negro gave him a severe blow +with a stick. The cries of the fellow being heard by his countrymen +at a distance, they imagined he was killed, and immediately began the +attack on our people; who, before they had time to reach the boat, or +to arm themselves against the unexpected impending danger, fell a +sacrifice to the fury of their savage assailants.</p> + +<p>The first of these accounts was confirmed by the testimony of many +of the natives whom we conversed with at different times, and who, I +think, could have no interest in deceiving us. The second manner of +relating the transaction, rests upon the authority of the young New +Zealander, who chose to abandon his country and go away with us, and +who, consequently, could have no possible view in disguising the +truth. All agreeing that the quarrel happened when the boat's crew +were sitting at their meal, it is highly probable that both accounts +are true, as they perfectly coincide. For we may very naturally +suppose, that while some of the natives were stealing from the man +who had been left in the boat, others of them might take the same +liberties with the property of our people who were on shore.</p> + +<p>Be this as it will, all agree that the quarrel first took its rise +from some thefts, in the commission of which the natives were +detected. All agree, also, that there was no premeditated plan of +bloodshed, and that, if these thefts had not been unfortunately too +hastily resented no mischief would have happened. For Kahoora's +greatest enemies, those who solicited his destruction most earnestly, +at the same time confessed that he had no intention to quarrel, much +less to kill, till the fray had actually commenced. It also appears +that the unhappy victims were under no sort of apprehension of their +fate, otherwise they never would have ventured to sit down to a +repast at so considerable a distance from their boat, amongst people +who were the next moment to be their murderers. What became of the +boat I never could learn. Some said she was pulled to pieces and +burnt, others told us that she was carried, they knew not whither, by +a party of strangers.</p> + +<p>We stayed here till the evening, when, having loaded the rest of +the boats with grass, celery, scurvy-grass, etc. we embarked to +return to the ships. We had prevailed upon Pedro to launch his canoe, +and accompany us; but we had scarcely put off from the shore when the +wind began to blow very hard at N.W., which obliged him to put back, +We proceeded ourselves, but it was with a good deal of difficulty +that we could reach the ships, where some of the boats did not arrive +till one o'clock the next morning; and it was fortunate that they got +on board then, for it afterward blew a perfect storm, with abundance +of rain, so that no manner of work could go forward that day. In the +evening the gale ceased, and the wind, having veered to the E., +brought with it fair weather.</p> + +<p>The next day we resumed our works; the natives ventured out to +catch fish; and Pedro, with all his family, came and took up his +abode near us. The chief's proper name is Matahouah; the other being +given him by some of my people during my last voyage, which I did not +know till now. He was, however, equally well known amongst his +countrymen by both names.</p> + +<p>On the 20th, in the forenoon, we had another storm from, the N.W. +Though this was not of so long continuance as the former, the gusts +of wind from the hills were far more violent, insomuch that we were +obliged to strike the yards and top-masts to the very utmost; and, +even with all this precaution, it was with difficulty that we rode it +out. These storms are very frequent here, and sometimes violent and +troublesome. The neighbouring mountains, which at these times are +always loaded with vapours, not only increase the force of the wind, +but alter its direction in such a manner, that no two blasts follow +each other from the same quarter; and the nearer the shore, the more +their effects are felt.</p> + +<p>The next day we were visited by a tribe or family, consisting of +about thirty persons, men, women and children, who came from the +upper part of the Sound. I had never seen them before. The name of +their chief was Tomatongeauooranuc, a man of about forty-five years +of age, with a cheerful open countenance; and, indeed, the rest of +his tribe were, in general, the handsomest of the New Zealand race I +had ever met with.</p> + +<p>By this time more than two-thirds of the inhabitants, of the Sound +had settled themselves about us. Great numbers of them daily +frequented the ships, and the encampment on shore; but the latter +became, by far, the most favourite place of resort, while our people +there were melting some seal blubber. No Greenlander was ever fonder +of train-oil than our friends here seemed to be. They relished the +very skimmings of the kettle, and dregs of the casks; but a little of +the pure stinking oil was a delicious feast, so eagerly desired, that +I suppose it is seldom enjoyed.</p> + +<p>Having got on board as much hay and grass as we judged sufficient +to serve the cattle till our arrival at Otaheite, and having +completed the wood and water of both ships, on the 23d we struck our +tents, and carried every thing off from the shore, and next morning +we weighed anchor, and stood out of the cove. But the wind not being +very fair, and finding that the tide of ebb would be spent before we +could get out of the Sound, we cast anchor again a little without the +island Motuara, to wait for a more favourable opportunity of putting +into the strait.</p> + +<p>While we were unmooring and getting under sail, +Tomatongeauooranuc, Matahouah, and many more of the natives, came to +take their leave of us, or rather to obtain, if they could, some +additional presents from us before we left them. These two chiefs +became suitors to me for some goats and hogs. Accordingly, I gave to +Matahouah two goats, a male, and female with kid; and to +Tomatongeauooranuc two pigs, a boar and a sow. They made me a promise +not to kill them; though, I must own, I put no great faith in this. +The animals which Captain Furneaux sent on shore here, and which soon +after fell into the hands of the natives, I was now told were all +dead; but I could get no intelligence about the fate of those I had +left in West Bay, and in Cannibal Cove, when I was here in the course +of my last voyage. However, all the natives whom I conversed with, +agreed, that poultry are now to be met with wild in the woods behind +Ship Cove; and I was afterward informed, by the two youths who went +away with us, that Tiratou, a popular chief amongst them, had a great +many cocks and hens in his separate possession, and one of the +sows.</p> + +<p>On my present arrival at this place, I fully intended to have left +not only goats and hogs, but sheep, and a young bull, with two +heifers, if I could have found either a chief powerful enough to +protect and keep them, or a place where there might be a probability +of their being concealed from those who would ignorantly attempt to +destroy them. But neither the one nor the other presented itself to +me. Tiratou was now absent; and Tringoboohee, whom I had met with +during my last voyage, and who seemed to be a person of much +consequence at that time, had been killed five months ago, with about +seventy persons of his tribe; and I could not learn that there now +remained in our neighbourhood any tribe, whose numbers could secure +to them a superiority of power over the rest of their countrymen. To +have given the animals to any of the natives who possessed no such +power, would not have answered the intention; for in a country like +this, where no man's property is secure, they would soon have fallen +a prey to different parties, and been either separated or killed, but +most likely both. This was so evident, from what we had observed +since our arrival, that I had resolved to leave no kind of animal +till Matahouah and the other chief solicited me for the hogs and +goats. As I could spare them, I let them go, to take their chance. I +have at different times, left in New Zealand not less than ten or a +dozen hogs, besides those put on shore by Captain Furneaux. It will +be a little extraordinary, therefore, if this race should not +increase and be preserved here, either in a wild or in a domestic +state, or in both.</p> + +<p>We had not been long at anchor near Motuara, before three or four +canoes, filled with natives, came off to us from the S.E. side of the +sound; and a brisk trade was carried on with them for the curiosities +of this place. In one of these canoes was Kahoora, whom I have +already mentioned as the leader of the party who cut off the crew of +the Adventure's boat. This was the third time he had visited us, +without betraying the smallest appearance of fear. I was ashore when +he now arrived, but had got on board just as he was going away. Omai, +who had returned with me, presently pointed him out, and solicited me +to shoot him. Not satisfied with this, he addressed himself to +Kahoora, threatening to be his executioner if ever he presumed to +visit us again.</p> + +<p>The New Zealander paid so little regard to these threats, that he +returned the next morning with his whole family, men, women, and +children, to the number of twenty and upward. Omai was the first who +acquainted me with his being along-side the ship, and desired to know +if he should ask him to come on board. I told him he might; and +accordingly he introduced the chief into the cabin, saying, "There is +Kahoora, kill him!" But, as if he had forgot his former threats, or +were afraid that I should call upon him to perform them, he +immediately retired. In a short time, however, he returned; and +seeing the chief unhurt, he expostulated with me very earnestly, +saying, "Why do you not kill him? You tell me, if a man kills another +in England that he is hanged for it. This man has killed ten, and yet +you will not kill him, though many of his countrymen desire it, and +it would be very good." Omai's arguments, though specious enough, +having no weight with me, I desired him to ask the chief why he had +killed Captain Furneaux's people? At this question, Kahoora folded +his arms, hung down his head, and looked like one caught in a trap; +and I firmly believe he expected instant death. But no sooner was he +assured of his safety, than he became cheerful. He did not, however, +seem willing to give me an answer to the question that had been put +to him, till I had, again and again, repeated my promise that he +should not be hurt. Then he ventured to tell us, "That one of his +countrymen having brought a stone hatchet to barter, the man, to whom +it was offered, took it, and would neither return it, nor give any +thing for it; on which the owner of it snatched up the bread as an +equivalent, and then the quarrel began."</p> + +<p>The remainder of Kahoora's account of this unhappy affair, +differed very little from what we had before learnt from the rest of +his countrymen. He mentioned the narrow escape he had during the +fray; a musquet being levelled at him, which he avoided by skulking +behind the boat; and another man, who stood close to him, was shot +dead. As soon as the musquet was discharged, he instantly seized the +opportunity to attack Mr Rowe, who commanded the party, and who +defended himself with his hanger, (with which he wounded Kahoora in +the arm,) till he was overpowered by numbers.</p> + +<p>Mr Burney, who was sent by Captain Furneaux the next day, with an +armed party, to look for his missing people, upon discovering the +horrid proofs of their shocking fate, had fired several vollies +amongst the crowds of natives who still remained assembled on the +spot, and were probably partaking of the detestable banquet. It was +natural to suppose that he had not fired in vain; and that, +therefore, some of the murderers and devourers of our unhappy +countrymen had suffered under our just resentment. Upon enquiry, +however, into this matter, not only from Kahoora, but from others who +had opportunities of knowing, it appeared that our supposition was +groundless, and that not one of the shot fired by Mr Burney's people +had taken effect, so as to kill, or even to hurt, a single +person.[143]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 143: Mr Burney was not warranted in firing. It +was not possible for him, at the time, to know whether or not his +comrades had been justly punished for aggressions on the savages. He +acted, therefore, from the impulse of blind revenge. But such a +motive, though natural enough it may be, must, nevertheless, be +condemned by every law recognised among civilized nations. Even his +observing these people engaged in feasting on the victims of their +fury, much indeed as it would necessarily augment his abhorrence, +could not be allowed a sufficient plea for his attacking them; +because the principles which ought to govern the conduct of a member +of such a society as he belonged to, are indiscriminately imperative +in their nature, and do not allow any latitude of dispensation to an +individual. The only thing that warrants the violation of them, is +the necessity imposed by a still higher law,--that of preserving his +own existence. But, in the present instance, it does not appear that +he was in any danger.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>It was evident, that most of the natives we had met with since our +arrival, as they knew I was fully acquainted with the history of the +massacre, expected I should avenge it with the death of Kahoora. And +many of them seemed not only to wish it, but expressed their surprise +at my forbearance. As he could not be ignorant of this, it was a +matter of wonder to me that he put himself so often in my power. When +he visited us while the ships lay in the cove, confiding in the +number of his friends that accompanied him, he might think himself +safe; but his two last visits had been made under such circumstances, +that he could no longer rely upon this. We were then at anchor in the +entrance of the sound, and at some distance from any shore; so that +he could not have any assistance from thence, nor flatter himself he +could have the means of making his escape, had I determined to detain +him. And yet, after his first fears, on being interrogated, were +over, he was so far from entertaining any uneasy sensations, that, on +seeing a portrait of one of his countrymen hanging up in the cabin, +he desired to have his own portrait drawn; and sat till Mr Webber had +finished it, without marking the least impatience. I must confess I +admired his courage, and was not a little pleased to observe the +extent of the confidence he put in me; for he placed his whole safety +in the declarations I had uniformly made to those who solicited his +death, That I had always been a friend to them all, and would +continue so, unless they gave me cause to act otherwise; that as to +their inhuman treatment of our people, I should think no more of it, +the transaction having happened long ago, and when I was not present; +but that, if ever they made a second attempt of that kind, they might +rest assured of feeling the weight of my resentment.[144]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 144: Here Captain Cook acted wisely; and, +indeed, throughout the whole transaction, his conduct merits the +highest applause. To resist the solicitations of envy and revenge, +where acquiescence would have proved so availing to his reputation, +and so secure in its display, implied a conscientious regard to an +invisible authority, which must ever be allowed to constitute a +feature of excellence in any man to whom power is committed. His +threatening is not to be considered as any exception to what is now +said in his praise, being, in fact, a beneficial intimation +calculated to secure subjection to a necessary law. Here it may not +be amiss to remark, that savages, little as some men think of them, +are possessed of all the faculties of human nature; and that +conscience, that principle, which, more than reason, characterizes +our species, has as true and as efficient an existence in their +breasts. Now this always respects a superior power, and is the source +of that indescribable dread of some opposing and awful agency, which +never fails to visit the transgressor of its dictates. We must not, +however, ascribe to it every apprehension of danger with which the +mind is occasionally disturbed. There is a sort of fear of evil which +seems common to us with the lower animals, and which cannot therefore +be imagined to have any connection with moral delinquency. This +latter, it is probable, was all that Kahoora experienced in his first +interview with Cook after the massacre; and hence his apprehensions +would easily be subdued by the assurances which that gentleman made +him. In fact, from the facility of his confidence, we may almost +certainly infer his consciousness of innocence, notwithstanding his +share in the commission of the deed. This implies no inconsistency, +as every thinking person will at once perceive; for it must be +remembered, that there is no evidence whatever as to any design or +premeditated plan on the part of the savages. Had his dread been of +the former kind, it is scarcely conceivable that the utmost +assurances of indemnity which Cook could give, would have produced so +unaffected a manifestation of ease as is described.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>For some time before we arrived at New Zealand, Omai had expressed +a desire to take one of the natives with him to his own country. We +had not been there many days before he had an opportunity of being +gratified in this; for a youth, about seventeen or eighteen years of +age, named Taweiharooa, offered to accompany him, and took up his +residence on board. I paid little attention to this at first, +imagining that he would leave us when we were about to depart, and +after he had got what he could from Omai. At length, finding that he +was fixed in his resolution to go with us, and having learnt that he +was the only son of a deceased chief, and that his mother, still +living, was a woman much respected here, I was apprehensive that Omai +had deceived him and his friends, by giving them hopes and assurances +of his being sent back. I therefore caused it to be made known to +them all, that if the young man went away with us he would never +return. But this declaration seemed to make no sort of impression. +The afternoon before we left the cove, Tiratoutou, his mother, came +on board, to receive her last present from Omai. The same evening she +and Taweiharooa parted, with all the marks of tender affection that +might be expected between a parent and a child, who were never to +meet again. But she said she would cry no more; and, sure enough, she +kept her word. For when she returned the next morning, to take her +last farewell of him, all the time she was on board she remained +quite cheerful, and went away wholly unconcerned.</p> + +<p>That Taweiharooa might be sent away in a manner becoming his +birth, another youth was to have gone with him as his servant; and, +with this view, as we supposed, he remained on board till we were +about to sail, when his friends took him ashore. However, his place +was supplied next morning by another, a boy of about nine or ten +years of age, named Kokoa. He was presented to me by his own father, +who, I believe, would have parted with his dog with far less +indifference. The very little clothing the boy had he stript him of, +and left him as naked as he was born. It was to no purpose that I +endeavoured to convince these people of the improbability, or rather +of the impossibility, of these youths ever returning home. Not one, +not even their nearest relations, seemed to trouble themselves about +their future fate. Since this was the case, and I was well satisfied +that the boys would be no losers by exchange of place, I the more +readily gave my consent to their going.</p> + +<p>From my own observations, and from the information of Taweiharooa +and others, it appears to me that the New Zealanders must live under +perpetual apprehensions of being destroyed by each other; there being +few of their tribes that have not, as they think, sustained wrongs +from some other tribe, which they are continually upon the watch to +revenge. And, perhaps, the desire of a good meal may be no small +incitement. I am told that many years sometimes elapse before a +favourable opportunity happens, and that the son never loses sight of +an injury that has been done to his father.[145] Their method of +executing their horrible designs, is by stealing upon the adverse +party in the night; and if they find them unguarded, (which, however, +I believe, is very seldom the case,) they kill every one +indiscriminately; not even sparing the women and children. When the +massacre is completed, they either feast and gorge themselves on the +spot, or carry off as many of the dead bodies as they can, and devour +them at home, with acts of brutality too shocking to be described. If +they are discovered before they can execute their bloody purpose, +they generally steal off again, and sometimes are pursued and +attacked by the other party in their turn. To give quarter, or to +take prisoners, makes no part of their military law; so that the +vanquished can only save their lives by flight. This perpetual state +of war, and destructive method of conducting it, operates so strongly +in producing habitual circumspection, that one hardly ever finds a +New Zealander off his guard either by night or by day. Indeed, no +other man can have such powerful motives to be vigilant, as the +preservation both of body and of soul depends upon it; for, according +to their system of belief, the soul of the man whose flesh is +devoured by the enemy, is doomed to a perpetual fire, while the soul +of the man whose body has been rescued from those who killed him, as +well as the souls of all who die a natural death, ascend to the +habitations of the gods. I asked, Whether they eat the flesh of such +of their friends as had been killed in war, but whose bodies were +saved from falling into the enemy's hands? They seemed surprised at +the question, which they answered in the negative, expressing some +abhorrence at the very idea. Their common method of disposing of +their dead, is by depositing their bodies in the earth; but if they +have more of their slaughtered enemies than they can eat, they throw +them into the sea.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 145: Every reader almost will here recollect, +that a similar disposition to perpetuate grievances has been found to +operate in all barbarous nations, and indeed amongst many people who +lay great claims to refinement in civilization. It will be found, in +truth, too strong an effort for most men's charity, to regard with +perfect impartiality either a person or a nation whom their fathers +had pointed out as an enemy. On the great scale of the world, we see +it is the nearly inevitable consequence of war to generate malicious +feelings. In addition, then, to some contrariety of interest, to some +real or imaginary aggression, or even a bare possibility of being +injured, it is almost enough, at any time, for the commencement of a +new struggle betwixt rival nations, that one, or both of them, +remember they were formerly at variance. Nor is it at all requisite +for due rancour in such cases, that politicians explain the grounds +of the quarrel, and aggravate the enormous injustice of the opponent, +or prove his readiness to do mischief. The animosity is already +conceived, and waits only the removal of the gauze-like partition, to +be able, with greater certainty of effect, to guide its instruments +of destruction. "Hear," says Mr Ferguson, in his essay on this +subject, "hear the peasants on different sides of the Alps, and the +Pyrenees, the Rhyne, or the British channel, give vent to their +prejudices and national passions; it is among them that we find the +materials of war and dissension laid without the direction of +government, and sparks ready to kindle into a flame, which the +statesman is frequently disposed to extinguish. The fire will not +always catch where his reasons of state would direct, nor stop where +the concurrence of interest has produced an alliance. 'My father,' +said a Spanish peasant, 'would rise from his grave if he could +foresee a war with France.' What interest had he, or the bones of his +father, in the quarrels of princes?" The answer might easily be given +by another anecdote. During a parley betwixt the leaders of two rival +Highland clans, which had for its object the peaceable termination of +their differences, a subordinate officer, not relishing the unusual +homily, went up to his chief in a rage, and upbraided him for +delaying the combat. "Don't you see," says he, brandishing his +claymore, "that the sun is almost set?--we'll no hae half time to +kill thae rascals!" The peasant naturally enough wished that his +father might rise again to take his share in the delightful work of +slaughter. Pray, what childish scruples withhold persons of such keen +appetites from occasionally taking a belly-full of their enemy's +flesh?--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They have no such thing as <i>morais</i>, or other places of +public worship; nor do they ever assemble together with this view. +But they have priests, who alone address the gods in prayer for the +prosperity of their temporal affairs, such as an enterprise against a +hostile tribe, a fishing party, or the like.</p> + +<p>Whatever the principles of their religion may be, of which we +remain very ignorant, its instructions are very strongly inculcated +into them from their very infancy. Of this I saw a remarkable +instance, in the youth who was first destined to accompany +Taweiharooa. He refrained from eating the greatest part of the day, +on account of his hair being cut, though every method was tried to +induce him to break his resolution, and he was tempted with the offer +of such victuals as he was known to esteem the most. He said, if he +eat any thing that day the <i>Eatooa</i> would kill him. However, +toward evening, the cravings of nature got the better of the precepts +of his religion, and he ate, though but sparingly. I had often +conjectured, before this, that they had some superstitious notions +about their hair, having frequently observed quantities of it tied to +the branches of trees near some of their habitations; but what these +notions are I could never learn.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the divided and hostile state in which the New +Zealanders live, travelling strangers, who come with no ill design, +are well received and entertained during their stay; which, however, +it is expected will be no longer than is requisite to transact the +business they come upon. Thus it is that a trade for +<i>poenammoo</i>, or green talc, is carried on throughout the whole +northern island. For they tell us, that there is none of this stone +to be found but at a place which bears its name, somewhere about the +head of Queen Charlotte's Sound, and not above one or two days +journey, at most, from the station of our ships. I regretted much +that I could not spare time sufficient for paying a visit to the +place; as we were told a hundred fabulous stories about this stone, +not one of which carried with it the least probability of truth, +though some of their most sensible men would have us believe them. +One of these stories is, that this stone is originally a fish, which +they strike with a gig in the water, tie a rope to it, and drag it to +the shore, to which they fasten it, and it afterwards becomes stone. +As they all agree that it is fished out of a large lake, or +collection of waters, the most probable conjecture is, that it is +brought from the mountains, and deposited in the water by the +torrents. This lake is called by the natives Tavai Poenammoo, that +is, the Water of Green Talc; and it is only the adjoining part of the +country, and not the whole southern island of New Zealand, that is +known to them by the name which hath been given to it on my +chart.</p> + +<p>Polygamy is allowed amongst these people; and it is not uncommon +for a man to have two or three wives. The women are marriageable at a +very early age; and it should seem, that one who is unmarried, is but +in a forlorn state. She can with difficulty get a subsistence; at +least she is, in a great measure, without a protector, though in +constant want of a powerful one.</p> + +<p>The New Zealanders seem to be a people perfectly satisfied with +the little knowledge they are masters of, without attempting, in the +least, to improve it. Nor are they remarkably curious, either in +their observations or their enquiries. New objects do not strike them +with such a degree of surprise as one would naturally expect; nor do +they even fix their attention for a moment. Omai, indeed, who was a +great favourite with them, would sometimes attract a circle about +him; but they seemed to listen to his speeches like persons who +neither understood, nor wished to understand, what they heard.</p> + +<p>One day, on our enquiring of Taweiharooa, how many ships, such as +ours, had ever arrived in Queen Charlotte's Sound, or in any part of +its neighbourhood? he began with giving an account of one absolutely +unknown to us. This, he said, had put into a port on the N.W. coast +of Teerawitte, but a very few years before I arrived in the Sound in +the Endeavour, which the New Zealanders distinguish by calling it +Tupia's ship. At first, I thought he might have been mistaken as to +the time and place; and that the ship in question might be either +Monsieur Surville's, who is said to have touched upon the N.E. coast +of Eaheinomauwe, the same year I was there in the Endeavour; or else +Monsieur Marion du Fresne's, who was in the Bay of Islands, on the +same coast, a few years after. But he assured us that he was not +mistaken, either as to the time, or as to the place of this ship's +arrival, and that it was well known to every body about Queen +Charlotte's Sound and Teerawitte. He said, that the captain of her, +during his stay here, cohabited with a woman of the country; and that +she had a son by him still living, about the age of Kokoa, who, +though not born then, seemed to be equally well acquainted with the +story. We were also informed by Taweiharooa, that this ship first +introduced the venereal disease amongst the New Zealanders. I wish +that subsequent visitors from Europe may not have their share of +guilt in leaving so dreadful a remembrance of them amongst this +unhappy race. The disorder now is but too common here, though they do +not seem to regard it, saying, that its effects are not near so +pernicious at present as they were at its first appearance. The only +method, as far as I ever heard, that they make use of as a remedy, is +by giving the patient the use of a sort of hot bath, which they +produce by the steam of certain green plants laid over hot +stones.</p> + +<p>I regretted much that we did not hear of this ship while we were +in the sound; as, by means of Omai, we might have had full and +correct information about her from eyewitnesses. For Taweiharooa's +account was only from what he had been told, and therefore liable to +many mistakes. I have not the least doubt, however, that his +testimony may so far be depended upon, as to induce us to believe +that a ship really had been at Teerawitte prior to my arrival in the +Endeavour, as it corresponds with what I had formerly heard. For in +the latter end of 1773, the second time I visited New Zealand, during +my late voyage, when we were continually making enquiries about the +Adventure, after our separation, some of the natives informed us of a +ship's having been in a port on the coast of Teerawitte. But, at this +time, we thought we must have misunderstood them, and took no notice +of the intelligence.</p> + +<p>The arrival of this unknown ship has been marked by the New +Zealanders with more causes of remembrance than the unhappy one just +mentioned. Taweiharooa told us their country was indebted to her +people for the present of an animal, which they left behind them. But +as he had not seen it himself, no sort of judgment could be formed +from his description of what kind it was.</p> + +<p>We had another piece of intelligence from him, more correctly +given, though not confirmed by our own observations, that there are +snakes and lizards there of an enormous size. He described the latter +as being eight feet in length, and as big round as a man's body. He +said they sometimes seize and devour men; that they burrow in the +ground; and that they are killed by making fires at the mouths of the +holes. We could not be mistaken as to the animal; for, with his own +hand, he drew a very good representation of a lizard on a piece of +paper, as also of a snake, in order to shew what he meant.[146]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 146: There can be little doubt that the animal +here called a lizard is an alligator.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Though much has been said, in the narratives of my two former +voyages, about this country and its inhabitants, Mr Anderson's +remarks, as serving either to confirm or to correct our former +accounts, may not be superfluous. He had been three times with me to +Queen Charlotte's Sound during my last voyage; and, after this fourth +visit, what he thought proper to record, may be considered as the +result of sufficient observation. The reader will find it in the next +section; and I have nothing farther to add, before I quit New +Zealand, but to give some account of the astronomical and nautical +observations made during our stay there.</p> + +<pre> + The longitude of the observatory in Ship + Cove, by a mean of 103 sets of observations, + each set consisting of six or + more observed distances, was 174° 25' 15" E. + + By the time-keeper, at Greenwich rate, it + was 175 26 30 + + By ditto, at the Cape rate, it was 174 56 12 + + Variation of the compass, being the mean + of six needles, observed on board the + ship 12 40 0 E. + + By the same needles on shore, it was 13 53 0 + + The dip of the south end, observed on + shore was 63 42 0 +</pre> + +<p>By a mean of the results of eleven days observations, the +time-keeper was too slow for mean time on February 22, at noon, by +11h 50' 37",396; and she was found to be losing on mean time at the +rate of 2",913 per day. From this rate the longitude will be +computed, till some other opportunity offers to ascertain her rate +anew. The astronomical clock, with the same length of pendulum as at +Greenwich, was found to be losing on sidereal time 40",239 per +day.</p> + +<p>It will not be amiss to mention, that the longitude, by lunar +observations, as above, differs only 6' 45" from what Mr Wales made +it during my last voyage; his being so much more to the W. or +174° 18' 30".</p> + +<p>The latitude of Ship Cove is 41° 6' 0", as found by Mr +Wales.</p> + +<p>SECTION VIII.</p> + +<p><i>Mr Anderson's Remarks on the Country near Queen Charlotte's +Sound.--The +Soil.--Climate.--Weather.--Winds.--Trees.--Plants.--Birds.--Fish.--Other +Animals.--Of the Inhabitants.--Description of their Persons.--Their +Dress.--Ornaments.--Habitations.--Boats.--Food and +Cookery,--Arts.--Weapons --Cruelty to Prisoners.--Various +Customs.--Specimen of their Language.</i></p> + +<p>The land every where about Queen Charlotte's Sound is uncommonly +mountainous, rising immediately from the sea into large hills, with +blunted tops. At considerable distances are valleys, or rather +impressions on the sides of the hills, which are not deep, each +terminating toward the sea in a small cove, with a pebbly or sandy +beach; behind which are small flats, where the natives generally +build their huts, at the same time hauling their canoes upon the +beaches. This situation is the more convenient, as in every cove a +brook of very fine water (in which are some small trout) empties +itself into the sea.</p> + +<p>The bases of these mountains, at least toward the shore, are +constituted of a brittle, yellowish sand-stone, which acquires a +bluish cast where the sea washes it. It runs, at some places, in +horizontal, and, at other-places, in oblique strata, being frequently +divided, at small distances, by thin veins of coarse quartz, which +commonly follow the direction of the other, though they sometimes +intersect it. The mould, or soil, which covers this, is also of a +yellowish cast, not unlike marl; and is commonly from a foot to two, +or more, in thickness.</p> + +<p>The quality of this soil is best indicated by the luxuriant growth +of its productions. For the hills (except a few toward the sea, which +are covered with smaller bushes) are one continued forest of lofty +trees, flourishing with a vigour almost superior to anything that +imagination can conceive, and affording an august prospect to those +who are delighted with the grand and beautiful works of nature.</p> + +<p>The agreeable temperature of the climate, no doubt, contributes +much to this uncommon strength in vegetation. For, at this time, +though answering to our month of August, the weather was never +disagreeably warm, nor did it raise the thermometer higher than +60°. The winter, also, seems equally mild with respect to cold; +for in June, 1773, which corresponds to our December, the mercury +never fell lower than 48°; and the trees, at that time, retained +their verdure, as if in the summer season; so that, I believe, their +foliage is never shed, till pushed off by the succeeding leaves in +spring.</p> + +<p>The weather, in general, is good, but sometimes windy, with heavy +rain, which, however, never lasts above a day; nor does it appear +that it is ever excessive. For there are no marks of torrents rushing +down the hills, as in many countries; and the brooks, if we may judge +from their channels, seem never to be greatly increased. I have +observed, in the four different times of my being here, that the +winds from the south-eastward are commonly moderate, but attended +with cloudy weather, or rain. The S.W. winds blow very strong, and +are also attended with rain, but they seldom last long. The N.W. +winds are the most prevailing; and though often pretty strong, are +almost constantly connected with fine weather. In short, the only +obstacle to this being one of the finest countries upon earth, is its +great hillyness; which, allowing the woods to be cleared away, would +leave it less proper for pasturage than flat land, and still more +improper for cultivation, which could never be effected here by the +plough.</p> + +<p>The large trees which cover the hills are chiefly of two sorts. +One of them, of the size of our largest firs, grows much after their +manner, but the leaves, and small berries on their points, are much +liker the yew. It was this which supplied the place of spruce in +making beer; which we did with a strong decoction of its leaves, +fermented with treacle or sugar. And this liquor, when well prepared, +was acknowledged to be little inferior to the American spruce beer, +by those who had experience of both. The other sort of tree is not +unlike a maple, and grows often to a great size; but it only served +for fuel, as the wood, both of this and of the preceding, was found +to be rather too heavy for masts, yards, and other similar +repairs.</p> + +<p>There is a greater variety of trees on the small flat spots behind +the beaches. Amongst these are two that bear a kind of plum of the +size of prunes, the one yellow, called <i>karraca</i>, and the other +black, called <i>maituo</i>, but neither of them of a very agreeable +taste, though the natives eat both, and our people did the same. +Those of the first sort grow on small trees, always facing the sea; +but the others belong to larger trees that stand farther within the +wood, and which we frequently cut down for fuel.</p> + +<p>A species of <i>philadelphus</i> grows on the eminences which jut +out into the sea; and also a tree bearing flowers almost like myrtle, +with roundish spotted leaves of a disagreeable smell. We drank the +leaves of the <i>philadelphus</i> as tea, and found that they had a +pleasant taste and smell, and might make an excellent substitute for +the oriental sort.</p> + +<p>Among other plants that were useful to us, may be reckoned wild +celery, which grows plentifully in almost every cove, especially if +the natives have ever resided there before; and one that we used to +call scurvy-grass, though entirely different from the plant to which +we give that name. This, however, is far preferable to ours for +common use, and may be known by its jagged leaves, and small clusters +of white flowers on the top. Both sorts were boiled every morning, +with wheat ground in a mill, and with portable soup, for the people's +breakfast, and also amongst their pease-soup for dinner. Sometimes +they were used as sallad, or dressed as greens. In all which ways +they are good; and, together with the fish, with which we were +constantly supplied, they formed a sort of refreshment, perhaps +little inferior to what is to be met with in places most noted by +navigators for plentiful supplies of animal and vegetable food.</p> + +<p>Amongst the known kinds of plants met with here, are common and +rough bindweed; night-shade and nettles, both which grow to the size +of small trees; a shrubby speedwell, found near all the beaches, +sow-thistles, virgin's bower, vanelloe, French willow, euphorbia, and +crane's-bill; also cudweed, rushes, bull-rushes, flax, all-heal, +American nightshade, knot-grass, brambles, eye-bright, and groundsel; +but the species of each are different from any we have in Europe. +There is also polypody, spleenwort, and about twenty other different +sort of ferns, entirely peculiar to the place, with several sorts of +mosses, either rare, or produced only here; besides a great number of +other plants, whose uses are not yet known, and subjects fit only for +botanical books.</p> + +<p>Of these, however, there is one which deserves particular notice +here, as the natives make their garments of it, and it produces a +fine silky flax, superior in appearance to any thing we have, and +probably, at least, as strong. It grows every where near the sea, and +in some places a considerable way up the hills, in bunches or tufts, +with sedge-like leaves, bearing, on a long stalk, yellowish flowers, +which are succeeded by a long roundish pod, filled with very thin +shining black seeds. A species of long pepper is found in great +plenty, but it has little of the aromatic flavour that makes spices +valuable; and a tree, much like a palm at a distance, is pretty +frequent in the woods, though the deceit appears as you come near it. +It is remarkable, that as the greatest part of the trees and plants +had at this time lost their flowers, we perceived they were generally +of the berry-bearing kind; of which, and other seeds, I brought away +about thirty different sorts. Of these, one in particular, which +bears a red berry, is much like the supple-jack, and grows about the +trees, stretching from one to another, in such a manner as to render +the woods almost wholly impassable.</p> + +<p>The birds, of which there is a tolerable stock, as well as the +vegetable productions, are almost entirely peculiar to the place. And +though it be difficult to follow them, on account of the quantity of +underwood, and the climbing plants, that render travelling, for +pleasure alone, uncommonly fatiguing, yet a person, by remaining in +one place, may shoot as many in a day as would serve six or eight +others. The principal sorts are large brown parrots, with white or +greyish heads; green parroquets, with red foreheads; large wood +pigeons, brown above, with white bellies, the rest green, and the +bill and feet red; two sorts of cuckoos, one as large as our common +sort, of a brown colour, variegated with black, the other not larger +than a sparrow, of a splendid green cast above, and elegantly varied +with waves of golden, green, brown, and white colours below. Both +these are scarce, but several others are in greater plenty; one of +which, of a black colour, with a greenish cast, is remarkable for +having a tuft of white curled feathers hanging under the throat, and +was called the <i>poy</i> bird[147] by our people. Another sort, +rather smaller, is black, with a brown back and wings, and two small +gills under the root of the bill. This we called the small wattle +bird, to distinguish it from another, which we called the large one, +of the size of a common pigeon, with two large yellow and purple +membranes also at the root of the bill. It is black, or rather blue, +and has no resemblance of the other but in name, for the bill is +thick, short, and crooked, and has all together an uncommon +appearance. A gross-beak, about the size of a thrush, of a brown +colour, with a reddish tail, is frequent; as is also a small greenish +bird, which is almost the only musical one here, but is sufficient by +itself to fill the woods with a melody that is not only sweet, but so +varied, that one would imagine he was surrounded by a hundred +different sorts of birds when the little warbler is near. From these +circumstances we named it the mocking bird. There are likewise three +or four sorts of smaller birds; one of which, in figure and lameness, +exactly resembles our robin, but is black where that is brown, and +white where that is red. Another differs but little from this, except +in being smaller; and a third sort has a long tail, which it expands +as a fan on coming near, and makes a chirping noise when it perches. +King-fishers are seen, though rare, and are about the size of our +English ones, but with an inferior plumage.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 147: It had this name from its tuft of +feathers, resembling the white flowers used as ornaments in the ears +at Otaheite, and called there Poowa.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>About the rocks are seen black sea-pies with red bills; and +crested shags of a leaden colour, with small black spots on the wings +and shoulders, and the rest of the upper part of a velvet black +tinged with green. We frequently shot both these, and also a more +common sort of shags, black above and white underneath, that build +their nests upon trees, on which sometimes a dozen or more sit at +once. There are also, about the shore, a few sea-gulls, some blue +herons, and sometimes, though very rarely, wild-ducks, a small +sandy-coloured plover, and some sand-larks. And small penguins, black +above, with a white belly, as well as numbers of little black divers, +swim often about the sound. We likewise killed two or three rails, of +a brown or yellowish colour, variegated with black, which feed about +the small brooks, and are nearly as large as a common fowl. No other +sort of game was seen, except a single snipe, which was shot, and +differs but little from that of Europe.</p> + +<p>The principal fish we caught by the seine were mullets and +elephant fish, with a few soles and flounders; but those that the +natives mostly supplied us with were a sort of sea-bream, of a silver +colour, with a black spot on the neck, large conger eels, and a fish +in shape much like the bream, but so large as to weigh five, six, or +seven pounds. It is blackish with thick lips, and called <i>Mogge</i> +by the natives. With hook and line we caught chiefly a blackish fish +of the size of a haddock, called cole-fish by the seamen, but +differing much from that known by the same name in Europe; and +another of the same size, of a reddish colour, with a little beard, +which we called night-walkers, from the greatest number being caught +in the night. Sometimes we got a sort of small salmon, gurnards, +skate, and nurses; and the natives now and then brought hake, +paracutas, a small sort of mackerel, parrot-fish, and +leather-jackets; besides another fish, which is very rare, shaped +almost like a dolphin, of a black colour, with strong bony jaws, and +the back fin, as well as those opposite to it, much lengthened at the +end. All these sorts, except the last, which we did not try, are +excellent to eat; but the <i>Mogge</i>, small salmon, and cole-fish, +are superior to the rest.</p> + +<p>The rocks are abundantly furnished with great quantities of +excellent muscles; one sort of which, that is not very common, +measures above a foot in length. There are also cockles buried in the +sand of the small beaches; and in some places oysters, which, though +very small, are well tasted. Of other shell-fish there are ten or +twelve sorts, such as periwinkles, wilks, limpets, and some very +beautiful sea-ears, also another sort which stick to the weeds; with +some other things, as sea-eggs, star-fish, etc. several of which are +peculiar to the place. The natives likewise sometimes brought us very +fine cray-fish, equal to our largest lobsters, and cuttle-fish, which +they eat themselves.</p> + +<p>Insects are very rare. Of these we only saw two sorts of +dragon-flies, some butterflies, small grasshoppers, several sorts of +spiders, some small black ants, and vast numbers of scorpion-flies, +with whose chirping the woods resound. The only noxious one is the +sand-fly, very numerous here, and almost as troublesome as the +musquitoe; for we found no reptile here, except two or three sorts of +small harmless lizards.[148]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 148: In a separate memorandum-book, Mr Anderson +mentions the monstrous animal of the lizard kind, described by the +two boys after they left the island.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>It is remarkable, that, in this extensive land, there should not +even be the traces of any quadruped, only excepting a few rats, and a +sort of fox-dog, which is a domestic animal with the natives.</p> + +<p>Neither is there any mineral worth notice, but a green, jasper or +serpent-stone, of which the New Zealanders make their tools and +ornaments. This is esteemed a precious article by them; and they have +some superstitious notions about the method of its generation, which +we could not perfectly understand. It is plain, however, that +wherever it may be found, (which, they say, is in the channel of a +large river far to the southward,) it is disposed in the earth, in +thin layers, or perhaps in detached pieces, like our flints; for the +edges of those pieces, which have not been cut, are covered with a +whitish crust like these. A piece of this sort was purchased, about +eighteen inches long, a foot broad, and near two inches thick, which +yet seemed to be only the fragment of a larger piece.</p> + +<p>The natives do not exceed the common stature of Europeans; and, in +general, are not so well made, especially about the limbs. This is, +perhaps, the effect of sitting, for the most part, on their hams, and +of being confined, by the hilly disposition of the country, from +using that sort of exercise which contributes to render the body +straight and well-proportioned. There are, however, several +exceptions to this; and some are remarkable for their large bones and +muscles, but few that I have seen are corpulent.</p> + +<p>Their colour is of different casts, from a pretty deep black to a +yellowish or olive tinge, and their features also are various, some +resembling Europeans. But, in general, their faces are round, with +their lips full, and also their noses toward the point; though the +first are not uncommonly thick, nor the last flat. I do not, however, +recollect to have seen an instance of the true aquiline nose amongst +them. Their teeth are commonly broad, white, and well set; and their +eyes large, with a very free motion, which seems the effect of habit. +Their hair is black, straight, and strong, commonly cut short on the +hind part, with the rest tied on the crown of the head: but some have +it of a curling disposition, or of a brown colour. In the young, the +countenance is generally free or open; but in many of the men it has +a serious cast, and sometimes a sullenness or reserve, especially if +they are strangers. The women are, in general, smaller than the men; +but have few peculiar graces, either in form or features, to +distinguish them.</p> + +<p>The dress of both sexes is alike; and consists of an oblong +garment about five feet long, and four broad, made from the silky +flax already mentioned. This seems to be their most material and +complex manufacture, which is executed by knotting; and their work is +often ornamented with pieces of dog-skin, or chequered at the +corners. They bring two corners of this garment over the shoulders, +and fasten it on the breast with the other part, which covers the +body; and about the belly, it is again tied with a girdle made of +mat. Sometimes they cover it with large feathers of birds (which seem +to be wrought into the piece of cloth when it is made), or with +dog-skin; and that alone we have seen worn as a covering. Over this +garment many of them wear mats, which reach from the shoulders to +near the heels. But the most common outer-covering is a quantity of +the above sedgy plant, badly dressed, which they fasten on a string +to a considerable length, and, throwing it about the shoulders, let +it fall down on all sides, as far as the middle of the thighs. When +they sit down with this upon them, either in their boats, or upon the +shore, it would be difficult to distinguish them from large grey +stones, if their black heads, projecting beyond their coverings, did +not engage one to a stricter examination.</p> + +<p>By way of ornament, they fix in their heads feathers, or combs of +bone, or wood, adorned with pearl shell, or the thin inner skin of +some leaf. And in the ears, both of men and women, which are pierced, +or rather slit, are hung small pieces of jasper, bits of cloth, or +beads when they can get them. A few also have the <i>septum</i> of +the nose bored in its lower part; but no ornament was worn there that +we saw; though one man passed a twig through it, to shew us that it +was sometimes used for that purpose. They wear long beards, but are +fond of having them shaved.</p> + +<p>Some are punctured or stained in the face with curious spiral and +other figures, of a black or deep blue colour; but it is doubtful +whether this be ornamental, or intended as a mark of particular +distinction; and the women, who are marked so, have the puncture only +on their lips, or a small spot on their chins. Both sexes often +besmear their faces and heads with a red paint, which seems to be a +martial ochre mixed with grease; and the women sometimes wear +necklaces of shark's teeth, or bunches of long beads, which seem to +be made of the leg-bones of small birds, or a particular shell. A few +also have small triangular aprons adorned with the feathers of +parrots, or bits of pearl shells, furnished with a double or treble +set of cords to fasten them, about the waist. I have sometimes seen +caps or bonnets made of the feathers of birds, which may be reckoned +as ornaments; for it is not their custom to wear any covering on +their heads.</p> + +<p>They live in the small coves formerly described, in companies of +forty or fifty, or more; and sometimes in single families, building +their huts contiguous to each other; which, in general, are miserable +lodging-places. The best I ever saw was about thirty feet long, +fifteen broad, and six high, built exactly in the manner of one of +our country barns. The inside was both strong and regularly made of +supporters at the sides, alternately large and small, well fastened +by means of withes, and painted red and black. The ridge pole was +strong; and the large bull-rushes, which composed the inner part of +the thatching, were laid with great exactness parallel to each other. +At one end was a small square hole, which served as a door to creep +in at; and near, another much smaller, seemingly for letting out the +smoke, as no other vent for it could be seen. This, however, ought to +be considered as one of the best, and the residence of some principal +person; for the greatest part of them are not half the above size, +and seldom exceed four feet in height; being, besides, indifferently +built, though proof against wind and rain.</p> + +<p>No other furniture is to be seen in them, than a few small baskets +or bags, in which they put their fishing-hooks, and other trifles; +and they sit down in the middle round a small fire, where they also +probably sleep, without any other covering than what they wear in the +day, or perhaps without that; as such confined places must be very +warm, though inhabited but by a few persons.</p> + +<p>They live chiefly by fishing, making use either of nets of +different kinds, or of wooden fish-hooks pointed with bone; but so +oddly made, that a stranger is at a loss to know how they can answer +such a purpose. It also appears, that they remove their habitations +from one place to another when the fish grow scarce, or for some +other reason; for we found houses now built in several parts, where +there had been none when we were here during our last voyage, and +even these have been already deserted.</p> + +<p>Their boats are well built, of planks raised upon each other, and +fastened with strong withes, which also bind a long narrow piece on +the outside of the seams to prevent their leaking. Some are fifty +feet long, and so broad as to be able to sail without an outrigger; +but the smaller sort commonly have one; and they often fasten two +together by rafters, which we then call a double canoe. They carry +from five to thirty men or more; and have often a large head +ingeniously carved, and painted with a figure at the point, which +seems intended to represent a man, with his features distorted by +rage. Their paddles are about four or five feet long, narrow, and +pointed; with which, when they keep time, the boat is pushed along +pretty swiftly. Their sail, which is seldom used, is made of a mat of +a triangular shape, having the broadest part above.</p> + +<p>The only method of dressing their fish, is by roasting, or rather +baking; for they are entirely ignorant of the art of boiling. In the +same manner they dress the root, and part of the stalk, of the large +fern-tree, in a great hole dug for that purpose, which serves as an +oven. After which they split it, and find, within, a fine gelatinous +substance, like boiled sago powder, but firmer. They also use another +smaller fern root, which seems to be their substitute for bread, as +it is dried and carried about with them, together with dried fish in +great quantities, when they remove their families, or go far from +home. This they beat with a stick till it becomes pretty soft, when +they chew it sufficiently, and spit out the hard fibrous part, the +other having a sweetish mealy taste, not at all disagreeable.</p> + +<p>When they dare not venture to sea, or perhaps from choice, they +supply the place of other fish with muscles and sea-ears; great +quantities of the shells of which lie in heaps near their houses. And +they sometimes, though rarely, find means to kill rails, penguins, +and shags, which help to vary their diet They also breed considerable +numbers of the dogs, mentioned before, for food; but these cannot be +considered as a principal article of diet. From whence we we may +conclude, that, as there is not the least sign of cultivation of +land, they depend principally for their subsistence on the sea, +which, indeed, is very bountiful in its supply.</p> + +<p>Their method of feeding corresponds with the nastiness of their +persons, which often smell disagreeably from the quantity of grease +about them, and their clothes never being washed. We have seen them +eat the vermin, with which their heads are sufficiently stocked.</p> + +<p>They also used to devour, with the greatest eagerness, large +quantities of stinking train oil, and blubber of seals, which we were +melting at the tent, and had kept near two months; and, on board the +ships, they were not satisfied with emptying the lamps, but actually +swallowed the cotton, and fragrant wick, with equal voracity. It is +worthy of notice, that though the inhabitants of Van Diemen's Land +appear to have but a scanty subsistence, they would not even taste +our bread, though they saw us eat it; whereas these people devoured +it greedily, when both mouldy and rotten. But this must not be +imputed to any defect in their sensations; for I have observed them +throw away things which we eat, with evident disgust, after only +smelling to them.</p> + +<p>They shew as much ingenuity, both in invention and execution, as +any uncivilized nations under similar circumstances. For, without the +use of any metal tools, they make every thing by which they procure +their subsistence, clothing, and warlike weapons, with a degree of +neatness, strength, and convenience for accomplishing their several +purposes. Their chief mechanical tool is formed exactly after the +manner of our adzes; and is made, as are also the chisel and goudge, +of the green serpent-stone or jasper, already mentioned; though +sometimes they are composed of a black, smooth, and very solid stone. +But their masterpiece seems to be carving, which is found upon the +most trifling things; and, in particular, the heads of their canoes +are sometimes ornamented with it in such a manner, as not only shews +much design, but is also an example of their great labour and +patience in execution. Their cordage for fishing-lines is equal, in +strength and evenness, to that made by us; and their nets not at all +inferior. But what must cost them more labour than any other article, +is the making the tools we have mentioned; for the stone is +exceedingly hard, and the only method of fashioning it, we can guess +at, is by rubbing one stone upon another, which can have but a slow +effect. Their substitute for a knife is a shell, a bit of flint, or +jasper. And, as an auger to bore holes, they fix a shark's tooth in +the end of a small piece of wood. It is true, they have a small saw +made of some jagged fishes teeth, fixed on the convex edge of a piece +of wood nicely carved. But this, they say, is only used to cut up the +bodies of their enemies whom they kill in battle.</p> + +<p>No people can have a quicker sense of an injury done to them, and +none are more ready to resent it. But, at the same time, they will +take an opportunity of being insolent when they think there is no +danger of punishment; which is so contrary to the spirit of genuine +bravery, that, perhaps, their eagerness to resent injuries is to be +looked upon rather as an effect of a furious disposition than of +great courage. They also appear to be of a suspicious or mistrustful +temper (which, however, may rather be acquired than natural), for +strangers never came to our ships immediately, but lay in their boats +at a small distance, either to observe our motions, or consult +whether or no they should risk their safety with us. To this they +join a great degree of dishonesty; for they steal every thing they +can lay their hands on, if there be the least hope of not being +detected; and, in trading, I have little doubt but they would take +advantages, if they thought it could be done with safety; as they not +only refuse to trust a thing in one's hand for examination, but exult +if they think they have tricked you in the bargain.</p> + +<p>Such conduct, however, is, in some measure, to be expected where +there appears to be but little subordination, and consequently few, +if any, laws, to punish transgressions. For no man's authority seems +to extend farther than his own family; and when, at any time, they +join for mutual defence, or any other purpose, those amongst them who +are eminent for courage or prudence, are directors. How their private +quarrels are terminated is uncertain; but, in the few we saw, which +were of little consequence, the parties concerned were clamorous and +disorderly.</p> + +<p>Their public contentions are frequent, or rather perpetual; for it +appears, from their number of weapons, and dexterity in using them, +that war is their principal profession. These weapons are spears, +<i>patoos</i> and halberts, or sometimes stones. The first are made +of hard wood pointed, of different lengths, from five, to twenty, or +even thirty feet long. The short ones are used for throwing as darts. +The <i>patoo</i> or <i>emeete</i> is of an elliptical shape, about +eighteen inches long, with a handle made of wood, stone, the bone of +some sea animal, or green jasper, and seems to be their principal +dependence in battle. The halbert, or long club, is about five or six +feet long, tapering at one end with a carved head, and at the other, +broad or flat, with sharp edges.</p> + +<p>Before they begin the onset, they join in a war-song, to which +they all keep the exactest time, and soon raise their passion to a +degree of frantic fury, attended with the most horrid distortion of +their eyes, mouths, and tongues, to strike terror into their enemies; +which, to those who have not been accustomed to such a practice, +makes them appear more like demons than men, and would almost chill +the boldest with fear. To this succeeds a circumstance, almost +foretold in their fierce demeanour, horrid, cruel, and disgraceful to +human nature; which is, cutting in pieces, even before being +perfectly dead, the bodies of their enemies, and, after dressing them +on a fire, devouring the flesh, not only without reluctance, but with +peculiar satisfaction.</p> + +<p>One might be apt to suppose, that people, capable of such excess +of cruelty, must be destitute of every human feeling, even amongst +their own party; and yet we find them lamenting the loss of their +friends, with a violence of expression which argues the most tender +remembrance of them. For both men and women, upon the death of those +connected with them, whether in battle or otherwise, bewail them with +the most doleful cries; at the same time cutting their foreheads and +cheeks, with shells or pieces of flint, in large gashes, until the +blood flows plentifully and mixes with their tears. They also carve +pieces of their green stone, rudely shaped, as human figures, which +they ornament with bright eyes of pearl-shell, and hang them about +their necks, as memorials of those whom they held most dear; and +their affections of this kind are so strong, that they even perform +the ceremony of cutting, and lamenting for joy, at the return of any +of their friends, who have been absent but for a short time.</p> + +<p>The children are initiated, at a very early age, into all the +practices, good or bad, of their fathers; so that you find a boy or +girl, nine or ten years old, able to perform all the motions, and to +imitate the frightful gestures, by which the more aged use to inspire +their enemies with terror, keeping the strictest time in their song. +They likewise sing, with some degree of melody, the traditions of +their forefathers, their actions in war, and other indifferent +subjects; of all which they are immoderately fond, and spend much of +their time, in these amusements, and in playing on a sort of +flute.</p> + +<p>Their language is far from being harsh or disagreeable, though the +pronunciation is frequently guttural; and whatever qualities are +requisite in any other language to make it musical, certainly obtain +to a considerable degree here, if we may judge from the melody of +some sorts of their songs. It is also sufficiently comprehensive, +though, in many respects, deficient, if compared with our European +languages, which owe their perfection to long improvement. But a +small specimen is here subjoined, from which some judgment may be +formed. I collected a great many of their words, both now and in the +course of our former voyage; and being equally attentive, in my +enquiries, about the languages of the other islands throughout the +South Sea, I have the amplest proof of their wonderful agreement, or +rather identity. This general observation has, indeed, been already +made in the accounts of the former voyages. I shall be enabled, +however, to confirm and strengthen it, by a fresh list of words, +selected from a large vocabulary in my possession; and by placing, in +the opposite column, the corresponding words as used at Otaheite, the +curious reader will, at one view, be furnished with sufficient +materials for judging by what subordinate changes the difference of +dialect has been effected.</p> + +<pre> + English New Zealand. Otahaita. + <i>Water</i>, Ewy, Evy. + <i>A tail of a dog</i>, Wyeroo, Ero. + <i>Death, dead</i>, Kaoo, matte, matte, roa. + <i>To fly</i>, Ererre, Eraire. + <i>A house</i>, Ewharre, Ewharre. + <i>To sleep</i>, Moea, Moe. + <i>A fish-hook</i>, Makoee, Matou. + <i>Shut</i>, Opanee, Opanee. + <i>A bed</i>, Moenga Moera. + <i>A butterfly</i>, Epaipe, Pepe. + <i>To chew</i>, or <i>eat</i>, Hekaee, Ey. + <i>Cold</i>, Makkareede, Mareede. + <i>To-day</i>, Agooanai, Aooanai. + <i>The hand</i>, Reenga, Ereema. + <i>Large</i>, Keeerahoi, Erahoi. + <i>Red</i>, Whairo, Oora, oora. + <i>We</i>, Taooa, Taooa. + <i>Where is it</i>? Kahaia, Tehaia. + <i>A stone</i>, Powhy, Owhy. + <i>A man</i>, Tangata, Taata. + <i>Black</i>, Purra, purra, Ere, ere. + <i>White</i>, Ema, Ooama. + <i>To reside</i>, or <i>dwell</i>, Nohoanna, Nohonoa, + <i>Out, not within</i>, Woho, Woho. + <i>Male kind</i> (of any animal), Toa, Etoa. + <i>Female</i>, Eoowha, Eooha. + <i>A shark</i>, Mango, Mao. + <i>To understand</i>, Geetaia, Eetea. + <i>Forgot</i>, Warre, Ooaro. + <i>Yesterday</i>, Taeninnahoi, Ninnahoi. + <i>One</i>, Tahaee, Atahay. + <i>Two</i>, Rooa, Erooa. + <i>Three</i>, Toroo, Toroo. + <i>Four</i>, Faa, Ahaa. + <i>Five</i>, Reema, Ereema. + <i>Six</i>, Ono, Aono. + <i>Seven</i>, Heetoo, Aheitoo. + <i>Eight</i>, Waroo, Awaroo. + <i>Nine</i>, Eeva, Aeeva. + <i>Ten</i>, Angahoora, Ahooroo. + +The New Zealanders to these numerals prefix <i>Ma</i>; as, + + <i>English.</i> <i>New Zealand</i>. + <i>Eleven</i>, Matahee. + <i>Twelve</i>, etc.etc. Marooa, etc. etc. + <i>Twenty</i>, Maogahoora. + +</pre> + +<h2><a name="chapter3-2" id="chapter3-2">CHAPTER II.</a></h2> + +<p>FROM LEAVING NEW ZEALAND TO OUR ARRIVAL AT OTAHEITE, OR THE +SOCIETY ISLANDS.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>SECTION I.</p> + +<p><i>Prosecution of the Voyage.--Behaviour of the Two New Zealanders +on board.--Unfavourable Winds.--An Island called Mangeea +discovered.--The Coast of it examined.--Transactions with the +Natives,--An Account of their Persons, Dress, and Canoe.--Description +of the Island.--A Specimen of the Language.--Disposition of the +Inhabitants</i>.</p> + +<p>On the 25th of February, at ten o'clock in the morning, a light +breeze springing up at N.W. by W., we weighed, stood out of the +Sound, and made sail through the strait, with the Discovery in +company. We had hardly got the length of Cape Teerawitte, when the +wind took us aback at S.E. It continued in this quarter till two +o'clock the next morning, when we had a few hours calm. After which +we had a breeze at north; but here it fixed not long, before it +veered to the east, and after that to the south. At length on the +27th, at eight o'clock in the morning, we took our departure from +Cape Palliser, which, at this time, bore W., seven or eight leagues +distant. We had a fine gale, and I steered E. by N.</p> + +<p>We had no sooner lost sight of the land, than our two New Zealand +adventurers, the sea sickness they now experienced giving a turn to +their reflections, repented heartily of the step they had taken. All +the soothing encouragement we could think of availed but little. They +wept, both in public and in private, and made their lamentations in a +kind of song, which, as far as we could comprehend the meaning of the +words, was expressive of their praises of their country and people, +from which they were to be separated for ever. Thus they continued +for many days, till their sea sickness wore off, and the tumult of +their minds began to subside. Then these fits of lamentation became +less and less frequent, and at length entirely ceased. Their native +country and their friends were, by degrees, forgot, and they appeared +to be as firmly attached to us, as if they had been born amongst +us.</p> + +<p>The wind had not remained many hours at S., before it veered to +S.E. and E.; and, with this, we stood to the N., till the 28th at +noon. Being then in the latitude of 41° 17', and in the longitude +of 177° 17' E., we tacked and stood to the S.E., with a gentle +breeze at E.N.E. It afterward freshened, and came about to N.E.; in +which quarter it continued two days, and sometimes blew a fresh gale +with squalls, accompanied with showers of rain.</p> + +<p>On the 2d of March at noon, being in the latitude of 42° 35' +30", longitude 180° 8' E., the wind shifted to N.W.; afterward to +S.W.; and between this point and north it continued to blow, +sometimes a strong gale with hard squalls, and at other times very +moderate. With this wind we steered N.E. by E. and E., under all the +sail we could carry, till the 11th at noon, at which time we were in +the latitude of 39° 29', longitude 196° 4' E.</p> + +<p>The wind now veered to N.E. and S.E., and I stood to the N., and +to the N.E., as the wind would admit, till one o'clock in the morning +on the 16th, when having a more favourable gale from the north, I +tacked and stood to the east; the latitude being 33° 40', and the +longitude 198° 50' E. We had light airs and calms by turns, till +noon the next day, when the wind began to freshen at E.S.E., and I +again stood to the N.E. But as the wind often veered to E. and +E.N.E., we frequently made no better than a northerly course; nay +sometimes to the westward of north. But the hopes of the wind coming +more southerly, or of meeting with it from the westward, a little +without the Tropic, as I had experienced in my former visits to this +ocean, encouraged me to continue this course. Indeed it was necessary +that I should run all risks, as my proceeding to the north this year, +in prosecution of the principal object of the voyage, depended +entirely on my making a quick passage to Otaheite, or the Society +Islands.</p> + +<p>The wind continued invariably fixed at E.S.E., or seldom shifting +above two points on either side. It also blew very faint, so that it +was the 27th before we crossed the Tropic, and then we were only in +the longitude of 201° 25' E., which was nine degrees to the +westward of our intended port. In all this run we saw nothing, except +now and then a Tropic bird, that could induce us to think that we had +sailed near any land. In the latitude of 34° 20', longitude +199° we passed the trunk of a large tree, which was covered with +barnacles; a sign that it had been long at sea.</p> + +<p>On the 29th, at ten in the morning, as we were standing to the +N.E., the Discovery made the signal of seeing land. We saw it from +the mast-head almost the same moment, bearing N.E. by E. by compass. +We soon discovered it to be an island of no great extent, and stood +for it till sunset, when it bore N.N.E., distant about two or three +leagues.</p> + +<p>The night was spent in standing off and on, and at daybreak the +next morning, I bore up for the lee or west side of the island, as +neither anchorage nor landing appeared to be practicable on the south +side, on account of a great surf,[149] which broke every where with +violence against the shore, or against the reef that surrounded +it.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 149: A very ingenious and satisfactory account +of the cause of the surf, is to be met with in Marsden'a History of +Sumatra, p. 29-32.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>We presently found that the island was inhabited, and saw several +people, on a point of the land we had passed, wading to the reef, +where, as they found the ship leaving them quickly, they remained. +But others, who soon appeared in different parts, followed her +course; and sometimes several of them collected into small bodies, +who made a shouting noise all together, nearly after the manner of +the inhabitants of New Zealand.</p> + +<p>Between seven and eight o'clock, we were at the W.N.W. part of the +island, and, being near the shore, we could perceive with our +glasses, that several of the natives, who appeared upon a sandy +beach, were all armed with long spears and clubs, which they +brandished in the air with signs of threatening, or, as some on board +interpreted their attitudes, with invitations to land. Most of them +appeared naked, except having a sort of girdle, which, being brought +up between the thighs, covered that part of the body. But some of +them had pieces of cloth of different colours, white, striped, or +chequered, which they wore as a garment, thrown about their +shoulders. And almost all of them had a white wrapper about their +heads, not much unlike a turban; or, in some instances, like a high +conical cap. We could also perceive that they were of a tawny colour, +and, in general, of a middling stature, but robust, and inclining to +corpulence.</p> + +<p>At this time, a small canoe was launched in a great hurry from the +further end of the beach, and a man getting into it, put off, as with +a view to reach the ship. On perceiving this, I brought-to, that we +might receive the visit; but the man's resolution failing, he soon +returned toward the beach, where, after some time, another man joined +him in the canoe; and then they both paddled toward us. They stopt +short, however, as if afraid to approach, until Omai, who addressed +them in the Otaheite language, in some measure quieted their +apprehensions. They then came near enough, to take some beads and +nails, which were tied to a piece of wood, and thrown into the canoe. +They seemed afraid to touch these things, and put the piece of wood +aside without untying them. This, however, might arise from +superstition; for Omai told us, that when they saw us offering them +presents, they asked something for their <i>Eatooa</i>, or god. He +also, perhaps improperly, put the question to them, Whether, they +ever ate human flesh? which they answered in the negative, with a +mixture of indignation and abhorrence. One of them, whose name was +Mourooa, being asked how he came by a scar on his forehead, told us +that it was the consequence of a wound he had got in fighting with +the people of an island, which lies to the north-eastward, who, +sometimes came to invade them. They afterward took hold of a rope. +Still, however, they would not venture on board; but told Omai, who +understood them pretty well, that their countrymen on shore had given +them, this caution, at the same time directing them to enquire, from +whence our ship came, and to learn the name of the captain. On our +part, we enquired the name of the island, which they called +<i>Mangya</i> or <i>Mangeea</i>; and sometimes added to it <i>Nooe, +nai, naiwa</i>. The name of their chief, they said, was +Orooaeeka.</p> + +<p>Mourooa was lusty and well-made, but not very tall. His features +were agreeable, and his disposition seemingly no less so; for he made +several droll gesticulations, which indicated both good-nature and a +share of humour. He also made others which seemed of a serious kind, +and repeated some words with a devout air, before he ventured to lay +hold of the rope at the ship's stern; which was probably to recommend +himself to the protection of some Divinity. His colour was nearly of +the same cast with that common to the most southern Europeans. The +other man was not so handsome. Both of them had strong, straight +hair, of a jet colour, tied together on the crown of the head with a +bit of cloth. They wore such girdles as we had perceived about those +on shore, and we found they were a substance made from the <i>Morus +papyrifera</i>, in the same manner as at the other islands of this +ocean. It was glazed like the sort used by the natives of the +Friendly Islands; but the cloth, on their heads was white, like that +which is found at Otaheite. They had on a kind of sandals, made of a +grassy substance interwoven, which we also observed were worn by +those who stood upon the beach; and, as we supposed, intended to +defend their feet against the rough coral rock. Their beards were +long; and the inside of their arms, from the shoulder to the elbow, +and some other parts, were punctured or <i>tatooed</i>, after the +manner of the inhabitants of almost all the other islands in the +South Sea. The lobe of their ears was pierced, or rather slit, and to +such a length, that one of them stuck there a knife and some beads, +which he had received from us; and the same person had two polished +pearl-shells, and a bunch of human hair, loosely twisted, hanging +about his neck, which was the only ornament we observed. The canoe +they came in (which was the only one we saw), was not above ten feet +long, and very narrow; but both strong and neatly made. The fore part +had a flat board fastened over it, and projecting out, to prevent the +sea getting in on plunging, like the small <i>Evaas</i> at Otaheite; +but it had an upright stern, about five feet high, like some in New +Zealand; and the upper end of this stern-post was forked. The lower +part of the canoe was of white wood, but the upper was black, and +their paddles, made of wood of the same colour, not above three feet +long, broad at one end, and blunted. They paddled either end of the +canoe forward indifferently; and only turned about their faces to +paddle the contrary way.</p> + +<p>We now stood off and on; and as soon as the ships were in a proper +station, about ten o'clock I ordered two boats, one of them from the +Discovery, to sound the coast, and to endeavour to find a +landing-place. With this view, I went in one of them myself, taking +with me such articles to give the natives, as I thought might serve +to gain their good-will. I had no sooner put off from the ship, than +the canoe, with the two men, which had left us not long before, +paddled toward my boat; and, having come along-side, Mourooa stept +into her, without being asked, and without a moment's hesitation.</p> + +<p>Omai, who was with me, was ordered to enquire of him where we +could land; and he directed us to two different places. But I saw, +with regret, that the attempt could not be made at either place, +unless at the risk of having our boats filled with water, or even +staved to pieces. Nor were we more fortunate in our search for +anchorage; for we could find no bottom, till within a cable's length +of the breakers. There we met with from forty to twenty fathoms +depth, over sharp coral rocks; so that anchoring would have been +attended with much more danger than landing.</p> + +<p>While we were thus employed in reconnoitring the shore, great +numbers of the natives thronged down upon the reef, all armed as +above mentioned. Mourooa, who was now in my boat, probably thinking +that this warlike appearance hindered us from landing, ordered them +to retire back. As many of them complied, I judged he must be a +person of some consequence among them. Indeed, if we understood him +right, he was the king's brother. So great was the curiosity of +several of them, that they took to the water, and, swimming off to +the boats, came on board them without reserve. Nay, we found it +difficult to keep them out; and still more difficult to prevent their +carrying off every thing they could lay their hands upon. At length, +when they perceived that we were returning to the ships, they all +left us, except our original visitor Mourooa. He, though not without +evident signs of fear, kept his place in my boat, and accompanied me +on board the ship.</p> + +<p>The cattle, and other new objects, that presented themselves to +him there, did not strike him with so much surprise as one might have +expected. Perhaps his mind was too much taken up about his own +safety, to allow him to attend to other things. It is certain, that +he seemed very uneasy; and the ship, on our getting on board, +happening to be standing off shore, this circumstance made him the +more so. I could get but little new information from him; and +therefore, after he had made a short stay, I ordered a boat to carry +him in toward the land. As soon as he got out of the cabin, he +happened to stumble over one of the goats. His curiosity now +overcoming his fear, he stopped, looked at it, and asked Omai, what +bird this was? and not receiving an immediate answer from him, he +repeated the question to some of the people upon deck. The boat +having conveyed him pretty near to the surf, he leaped into the sea, +and swam ashore. He had no sooner landed, than the multitude of his +countrymen gathered round him, as if with an eager curiosity to learn +from him what he had seen; and in this situation they remained, when +we lost sight of them. As soon as the boat returned, we hoisted her +in, and made sail from the land to the northward.</p> + +<p>Thus were we obliged to leave, unvisited, this fine island, which +seemed capable of supplying all our wants. It lies in the latitude of +21° 57' S., and in the longitude of 201° 53' E. Such parts of +the coast as fell under our observation, are guarded by a reef of +coral rock, on the outside of which the sea is of an unfathomable +depth. It is full five leagues in circuit, and of a moderate and +pretty equal height; though, in clear weather, it may be certainly +seen at the distance of ten leagues; for we had not lost sight of it +at night, when we had run above seven leagues, and the weather was +cloudy. In the middle, it rises into little hills, from whence there +is a gentle descent to the shore, which, at the S.W. part, is steep, +though not above ten or twelve feet high; and has several excavations +made by the beating of the waves against a brownish sand-stone of +which it is composed. The descent here is covered with trees of a +deep green colour, very thick, but not high, which seem all of one +sort, unless nearest the shore, where there are great numbers of that +species of <i>dracaena</i> found in the woods of New Zealand, which +are also scattered in some other places. On the N.W. part, the shore, +as we mentioned above, ends in a sandy beach; beyond which the land +is broken down into small chasms or gullies, and has a broad border +of trees resembling tall willows; which, from its regularity, might +be supposed a work of art, did not its extent forbid us to think so. +Farther up on the ascent, the trees were of the deep green mentioned +before. Some of us supposed these to be the <i>rima</i>, intermixed +with low cocoa palms; and a few of some other sorts. They seemed not +so thick as on the S.W. part, and higher; which appearance might be +owing to our nearer approach to the shore. On the little hills were +some trees of a taller sort, thinly scattered; but the other parts of +them were either bare, and of a reddish colour, or covered with +something like fern. Upon the whole, the island has a pretty aspect, +and might be made a beautiful spot by cultivation.</p> + +<p>As the inhabitants seemed to be both numerous and well fed, such +articles of provision as the island produces must be in great plenty. +It might, however, be a matter of curiosity to know, particularly, +their method of subsistence; for our friend Mourooa told us, that +they had no animals, as hogs and dogs, both which, however, they had +heard of; but acknowledged they had plantains, bread-fruit, and taro. +The only birds we saw, were some white egg-birds, terns, and noddies; +and one white heron, on the shore.</p> + +<p>The language of the inhabitants of Mangeea is a dialect of that +spoken at Otaheite; though their pronunciation, as that of the New +Zealanders, be more guttural. Some of their words, of which two or +three are perhaps peculiar to this island, are here subjoined, as +taken, by Mr Anderson, from Omai, who had learnt them in his +conversations with Mourooa. The Otaheite words, where there is any +resemblance, are placed opposite.</p> + +<pre> + English. <i>Mangeea.</i> <i>Otaheite.</i> + <i>A cocoa nut</i>, Eakkaree, Aree. + <i>Bread-fruit</i>, Kooroo, Ooroo. + <i>A canoe</i>, Ewakka, Evaa. + <i>Friend</i>, Naoo, mou. + <i>A man</i>, Taata, or Tangata, Taata. + <i>Cloth</i>, or <i>cloth plant</i>, Taia, taia aoutee, Eoute. + <i>Good</i>, Mata, Myty. + <i>A club</i>, Pooroohee. + <i>Yes</i>, Aee, Ai. + <i>No</i>, Aoure, Aoure. + <i>A spear</i>, Heyhey. + A <i>fight, or battle</i>, Etamagee, Tamaee. + <i>A woman</i>, Waheine, Waheine. + <i>A daughter</i>, Maheine, Maheine. + <i>The sun</i>, Heetaia matooa. + <i>I</i>, Ou, Wou. + <i>The shore</i>, Euta, Euta. + <i>What is that?</i> Ehataieee? Owytaieeoa? + <i>There</i>, Oo. + <i>A chief</i>, Ereekee, Eree. + <i>Great</i>, or <i>powerful</i>, Manna (<i>an adjunct to + the last</i>.) + <i>To kiss</i>, Ooma. +</pre> + +<p>The natives of Mangeea seem to resemble those of Otaheite and the +Marquesas in the beauty of their persons, more than any other nation +I have seen in these seas; having a smooth skin, and not being +muscular. Their general disposition also corresponds, as far as we +had opportunities of judging, with that which distinguishes the +first-mentioned people. For they are not only cheerful, but, as +Mourooa shewed us, are acquainted with all the lascivious +gesticulations which the Otaheitans practise in their dances. It may +also be supposed, that their method of living is similar. For, though +the nature of the country prevented our seeing many of their +habitations, we observed one house near the beach, which much +resembled, in its mode of construction, those of Otaheite. It was +pleasantly situated in a grove of trees, and appeared to be about +thirty feet long, and seven or eight high, with an open end, which +represented an ellipse divided transversely. Before it, was spread +something white on a few bushes; which we conjectured to be a fishing +net, and, to appearance, of a very delicate texture.</p> + +<p>They salute strangers much after the manner of the New Zealanders, +by joining noses; adding, however, the additional ceremony of taking +the hand of the person to whom they are paying civilities, and +rubbing it with a degree of force upon their nose and mouth.[150]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 150: The inhabitants of the Palaos, New +Philippine, or rather Caroline Islands, at the distance of almost +fifteen hundred leagues from Mangeea, have the same mode of +salutation. "Leur civilitié, et la marque de leur respect, +consiste à prendre la main ou la pied de celui à qui +ils veulent faire honneur, et s'en frotter doucement toute le +visage."--<i>Lettres Edifiantes & Curieuses</i>, tom. xv. p. 208. +<i>Edit</i>. 1781.--- D.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION II.</p> + +<p><i>The Discovery of an Island called Wateeoo.--Its Coasts +examined.--Visits from the Natives on board the Ships.--Mess. Gore, +Barney, and Anderson, with Omai, sent on Shore.--Mr Anderson's +Narrative of their Reception.--Omai's Expedient to prevent their +being detained.--His meeting with some of his Countrymen, and their +distressful Voyage.--Farther Account of Wateeoo, and of its +Inhabitants</i>.</p> + +<p>After leaving Mangeea, on the afternoon of the 30th of March, we +continued our course northward, all that night, and till noon on the +31st; when we again saw land, in the direction of N.E. by N., distant +eight or ten leagues.</p> + +<p>Next morning, at eight o'clock, we had got abreast of its north +end, within four leagues of it, but to leeward; and could now +pronounce it to be an island, nearly of the same appearance and +extent with that we had so lately left. At the same time, another +island, but much smaller, was seen right ahead. We could have soon +reached this; but the largest one had the preference, as most likely +to furnish a supply of food for the cattle, of which we began to be +in great want.</p> + +<p>With this view I determined to work up to it; but as there was but +little wind, and that little was unfavourable, we were still two +leagues to leeward at eight o'clock the following morning. Soon +after, I sent two armed boats from the Resolution, and one from the +Discovery, under the command of Lieutenant Gore, to look for +anchoring-ground, and a landing-place. In the mean time, we plyed up +under the island with the ships.</p> + +<p>Just as the boats were putting off, we observed several single +canoes coming from the shore. They went first to the Discovery, she +being the nearest ship. It was not long after, when three of these +canoes came along-side of the Resolution, each conducted by one man. +They are long and narrow, and supported by outriggers. The stern is +elevated about three or four feet, something like a ship's +stern-post. The head is flat above, but prow-like below, and turns +down at the extremity, like the end of a violin. Some knives, beads, +and other trifles were conveyed to our visitors; and they gave us a +few cocoa-nuts, upon our asking for them. But they did not part with +them by way of exchange for what they had received from us. For they +seemed to have no idea of bartering; nor did they appear to estimate +any of our presents at a high rate.</p> + +<p>With a little persuasion, one of them made his canoe fast to the +ship, and came on board; and the other two, encouraged by his +example, soon followed him. Their whole behaviour marked that they +were quite at their ease, and felt no sort of apprehension of our +detaining, or using them ill.</p> + +<p>After their departure, another canoe arrived, conducted by a man +who brought a bunch of plantains as a present to me; asking for me by +name, having learnt it from Omai, who was sent before us in the boat +with Mr Gore. In return for this civility, I gave him an axe, and a +piece of red cloth; and he paddled back to the shore well satisfied. +I afterward understood from Omai, that this present had been sent +from the king, or principal chief of the island.</p> + +<p>Not long after, a double canoe, in which were twelve men, came +toward us. As they drew near the ship, they recited some words in +concert, by way of chorus,[151] one of their number first standing +up, and giving the word before each repetition. When they had +finished their solemn chant, they came along-side, and asked for the +chief. As soon as I shewed myself, a pig and a few cocoa-nuts were +conveyed up into the ship; and the principal person in the canoe made +me an additional present of a piece of matting, as soon as he and his +companions got on board.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 151: Something like this ceremony was performed +by the inhabitants of the Marquesas, when Captain Cook visited them +in 1774. It is curious to observe, at what immense distances this +mode of receiving strangers prevails. Padillo, who sailed from +Manilla in 1710, on a voyage to discover the Palaos Islands, was thus +received there. The writer of the relation of his voyage says, +"Aussitot qu'ils approcherent de notre bord, ils se mirent à +chanter. Ils regloient la cadence, en frappant des mains sur leurs +cuisses."--<i>Lettres Edifiantes & Curieuses</i>, tom. xv. p. +323.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>Our visitors were conducted into the cabin, and to other parts of +the ship. Some objects seemed to strike them with a degree of +surprise; but nothing fixed their attention for a moment. They were +afraid to come near the cows and horses; nor did they form the least +conception of their nature. But the sheep and goats did not surpass +the limits of their ideas; for they gave us to understand, that they +knew them to be birds. It will appear rather incredible, that human +ignorance could ever make so strange a mistake; there not being the +most distant similitude between a sheep or goat, and any winged +animal. But these people seemed to know nothing of the existence of +any other land-animals, besides hogs, dogs, and birds. Our sheep and +goats, they could see, were very different creatures from the two +first, and therefore they inferred, that they must belong to the +latter class, in which they knew there is a considerable variety of +species.[152] I made a present to my new friend of what I thought +might be most acceptable to him; but, on his going away, he seemed +rather disappointed than pleased. I afterward understood that he was +very desirous of obtaining a dog, of which animal this island could +not boast, though its inhabitants knew that the race existed in other +islands of their ocean. Captain Clerke had received the like present, +with the same view, from another man, who met with from him the like +disappointment.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 152: "I would add," says Mr Stewart, in his +Elements of the Phil, of Hum. Mind, p. 154, 2d ed., "I would add to +Cook's very judicious remarks, that the mistake of these islanders +probably did not arise from their considering a sheep or a goat as +bearing a more striking resemblance to a bird, than to the two +classes of quadrupeds with which they were acquainted; but to the +want of a generic word, such as <i>quadruped</i>, comprehending these +two species; which men in their situation would no more be led to +form, than a person, who had only seen one individual of each +species, would think of an appellation to express both, instead of +applying a proper name to each. In consequence of the variety of +birds, it appears that they had a generic name comprehending all of +them, to which it was not unnatural for them to refer any new animal +they met with."--This solution is very specious, but when narrowly +examined, will be found to rest on two suppositions not altogether +borne out by evidence, and also to be liable to yield a conclusion +not readily reconcileable with all the circumstances of the case. In +the first place, it is not proved that these islanders had no generic +word to comprehend the two species of quadrupeds with which they were +acquainted; and the reason given for their want of it, which, after +all, is merely a probable one, cannot be allowed much force. Its +weakness will appear from the consideration, that men in their +situation, having certainly an idea of number, must, according to Mr +S.'s own principles stated in the next page, have possessed the power +of attending separately to the things which their senses had +presented to them in a state of union, and have found it necessary to +apply to all of them one common name, or, in other words, "to have +reduced them all to the same genus." It is requisite, therefore, for +the validity of Mr S.'s reason, to shew that these islanders either +were not able to distinguish betwixt their hogs and dogs, or had +never numbered them together, which it is quite impossible to credit. +Even the case of the person who had seen only one individual of each +species, which Mr S. conceives similar to that we are considering, +may be argued against in the same manner, and besides this, will be +found not analogous. The reason is plain. He may or may not have been +able, from a solitary observation, to infer that the distinction he +noticed betwixt them was a radical difference, or, in the language of +the schoolmen, was essential: Whereas the islanders, from the +constancy of the differences they observed, must have been +necessitated to form a classification of the objects, the result of +which would be, the use of one term for the common properties or the +resemblance, and two words for the comprehended individuals. In the +second place, it cannot otherwise be made appear, that these +islanders had a generic name comprehending the variety of birds with +which they were acquainted, than on such principles of reasoning as +we have now been considering, the proper inference from which, as we +have seen, is destructive of the foundation of Mr S.'s solution. +Here, it may be remarked, it is somewhat unfortunate that we cannot +depend implicitly on Captain Cook's account as to the words in which +the islanders conveyed the notions we have been commenting on; +because, as the reader will find at the end of this section, these +people, who, whatever rank they may be allowed to hold as logicians, +were at all events very dexterous thieves, stole the memorandum book +in which Mr Anderson had recorded a specimen of their language. But +admitting Mr S.'s suppositions, it then may be shewn, that not only +the sheep and the goats, but also the horses and cows, considered, in +the words of Mr S., as <i>new animals</i>, would have been referred +by these islanders to the same genus, and therefore considered as +birds. The circumstance of their greater size, or, indeed, any other +discernible difference, cannot here be pleaded as exceptive, without +in reality abandoning the principles on which the solution is +constructed. On the whole, perhaps, it may seem more correct to +imagine, that these islanders were struck with some fanciful and +distant resemblance to certain birds they were acquainted with, from +which they hastily inferred identity of nature, notwithstanding some +very visible discrepancies; whereas the remarkable dissimilarity +betwixt the new quadrupeds and those they were previously acquainted +with, impressed their minds with the notion of complete contrariety. +In other words, they concluded, from the unlikeness, that these +animals were neither dogs nor hogs, and, from the resemblance, that +they were birds. It is erroneous to say, with Cook, that there is not +the most distant similitude between a sheep or goat, and any winged +animal. For the classifications adopted in every system of natural +history, proceed upon the discovery of still more remote resemblances +among the objects of the science, than such as may be noticed in the +present case; and it will almost always be found, that there is +greater difficulty in ascertaining differences amongst those objects +which are allied, than similarity amongst those which are +unconnected. The facility with which ideas are associated in the +mind, as Mr S. informs us, p. 295, is very different in different +individuals, and "lays the foundation of remarkable varieties of men +both in respect of genius and of character;" and he elsewhere (p. +291) admits, "that things which have no known relation to each other +are often associated, in consequence of their producing similar +effects on the mind." With respect to the former remark, the +facility, it might be practicable to shew, that, in general, it is +proportioned to the ignorance and imperfect education, of the +individuals, hence children and the female sex (as Mr S. himself +asserts) exhibit most of it; and, in consistency with the latter +observation, we have but to imagine, that some effect having been +produced on the minds of these islanders by the sight of the animals +in question, similar to what they had previously experienced from +some bird or birds which they had occasionally seen, led them to the +remarkable association we have been considering. It would not be very +difficult to intimate how this might have happened, but the length of +our note, the reader may think, is much greater than its importance, +and he may prefer to amuse himself at another time, by following out +the investigation. Let it be our apology for entering on it at all, +that it is only by diligent reflection on such mysterious trains of +thought, we can hope to acquire any just conceptions of the faculties +and operations of our own minds.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The people in these canoes were in general of a middling size, and +not unlike those of Mangeea; though several were of a blacker cast +than any we saw there. Their hair was tied on the crown of the head, +or flowing loose about the shoulders; and though in some it was of a +frizzling disposition, yet, for the most part, that, as well as the +straight sort, was long. Their features were various, and some of the +young men rather handsome. Like those of Mangeea, they had girdles of +glazed cloth, or fine matting, the ends of which, being +brought-betwixt their thighs, covered the adjoining parts. Ornaments, +composed of a sort of broad grass, stained with red, and strung with +berries of the nightshade, were worn about their necks. Their ears +were bored, but not slit; and they were punctured upon the legs, +from, the knee to the heel, which made them appear as if they wore a +kind of boots. They also resembled the inhabitants of Mangeea in the +length of their beards, and, like them, wore a sort of sandals upon +their feet. Their behaviour was frank and cheerful, with a great deal +of good-nature.</p> + +<p>At three o'clock in the afternoon, Mr Gore returned with the boat, +and informed me, that he had examined all the west side of the +island, without finding a place where a boat could land, or the ships +could anchor, the shore being every where bounded by a steep coral +rock, against which the sea broke in a dreadful surf. But as the +natives seemed very friendly, and to express a degree of +disappointment when they saw that our people failed in their attempts +to land, Mr Gore was of opinion, that by means of Omai, who could +best explain our request, they might be prevailed upon to bring off +to the boats, beyond the surf, such articles as we most wanted; in +particular, the stems of plantain trees, which make good food for the +cattle. Having little or no wind, the delay of a day or two was not +of any moment; and therefore I determined to try the experiment, and +got every thing ready against the next morning.</p> + +<p>Soon after day-break, we observed some canoes coming off to the +ships, and one of them directed its course to the Resolution. In it +was a hog, with some plantains and cocoa nuts, for which the people +who brought them demanded a dog from us, and refused every other +thing that we offered in exchange. One of our gentlemen on board +happened to have a dog and a bitch, which were great nuisances in the +ship, and might have been disposed of on this occasion for a purpose +of real utility, by propagating a race of so useful an animal in this +island. But their owner had no such views, in making them the +companions of his voyage. However, to gratify these people, Omai +parted with a favourite dog he had brought from England; and with +this acquisition they departed highly satisfied.</p> + +<p>About ten o'clock, I dispatched Mr Gore with three boats, two from +the Resolution, and one from the Discovery, to try the experiment he +had proposed. And, as I could confide in his diligence and ability, I +left it entirely to himself, to act as, from circumstances, he should +judge to be most proper. Two of the natives, who had been on board, +accompanied him, and Omai went with him in his boat as an +interpreter. The ships being a full league from the island when the +boats put off, and having but little wind, it was noon before we +could work up to it. We then saw our three boats riding at their +grapplings, just without the surf, and a prodigious number of the +natives on the shore, abreast of them. By this we concluded, that Mr +Gore, and others of our people, had landed, and our impatience to +know the event may be easily conceived. In order to observe their +motions, and to be ready to give them such assistance as they might +want, and our respective situations would admit of, I kept as near +the shore as was prudent. I was sensible, however, that the reef was +as effectual a barrier between us and our friends who had landed, and +put them as much beyond the reach of our protection, as if half the +circumference of the globe had intervened. But the islanders, it was +probable, did not know this so well as we did. Some of them, now and +then, came off to the ships in their canoes, with a few cocoa nuts; +which they exchanged for whatever was offered to them, without +seeming to give the preference to any particular article.</p> + +<p>These occasional visits served to lessen my solicitude about our +people who had landed. Though we could get no information from our +visitors, yet their venturing on board seemed to imply, at least, +that their countrymen on shore had not made an improper use of the +confidence put in them. At length, a little before sun-set, we had +the satisfaction of seeing the boats put off. When they got on board, +I found that Mr Gore himself, Omai, Mr Anderson, and, Mr Burney, were +the only persons who had landed. The transactions of the day were now +fully reported to me by Mr Gore; but Mr Anderson's account of them +being very particular, and including some remarks on the island and +its inhabitants, I shall give it a place here, nearly in his own +words.</p> + +<p>"We rowed toward a small sandy beach, upon which, and upon the +adjacent rocks, a great number of the natives had assembled; and came +to an anchor within a hundred yards of the reef, which extends about +as far, or a little farther, from the shore. Several of the natives +swam off, bringing cocoa-nuts; and Omai, with their countrymen, whom +we had with us in the boats, made them sensible of our wish to land. +But their attention was taken up, for a little time, by the dog, +which had been carried from the ship, and was just brought on shore, +round whom they flocked with great eagerness. Soon after, two canoes +came off; and, to create a greater confidence in the islanders, we +determined to go unarmed, and run the hazard of being treated well or +ill."</p> + +<p>"Mr Burney, the first lieutenant of the Discovery, and I went in +one canoe, a little time before the other; and our conductors, +watching attentively the motions of the surf, landed us safely upon +the reef. An islander took hold of each of us, obviously with an +intention to support us in walking, over the rugged rocks, to the +beach, where several of the others met us, holding the green boughs +of a species of <i>Mimosa</i> in their hands, and saluted us by +applying their noses to ours."</p> + +<p>"We were conducted from the beach by our guides, amidst a great +crowd of people, who flocked with very eager curiosity to look at us; +and would have prevented our proceeding, had not some men, who seemed +to have authority, dealt blows, with little distinction, amongst +them, to keep them off. We were then led up an avenue of cocoa-palms; +and soon came to a number of men, arranged in two rows, armed with +clubs, which they held on their shoulders, much in the manner we rest +a musquet. After walking a little way amongst these, we found a +person who seemed a chief, sitting on the ground cross-legged, +cooling himself with a sort of triangular fan, made from a leaf of +the cocoa palm, with a polished handle, of black wood, fixed to one +corner. In his ears were large bunches of beautiful red feathers, +which pointed forward. But he had no other mark, or ornament, to +distinguish him from the rest of the people; though they all obeyed +him with the greatest alacrity. He either naturally had, or at this +time put on, a serious, but not severe countenance; and we were +desired to salute him as he sat, by some people who seemed of +consequence."</p> + +<p>"We proceeded still amongst the men armed with clubs, and came to +a second chief, who sat fanning himself, and ornamented as the first. +He was remarkable for his size, and uncommon corpulence, though, to +appearance, not above thirty years of age. In the same manner, we +were conducted to a third chief, who seemed older than the two +former, and, though not so fat as the second, was of a large size. He +also was sitting, and adorned with red feathers; and after saluting +him as we had done the others, he desired us both to sit down, which +we were very willing to do, being pretty well fatigued with walking +up, and with the excessive heat we felt amongst the vast crowd that +surrounded us."</p> + +<p>"In a few minutes, the people were ordered to separate; and we +saw, at the distance of thirty yards, about twenty young women, +ornamented as the chiefs, with red feathers, engaged in a dance, +which they performed to a slow and serious air, sung by them all. We +got up, and went forward to see them; and though we must have been +strange objects to them, they continued their dance, without paying +the least attention to us. They seemed to be directed by a man who +served as a prompter, and mentioned each motion they were to make. +But they never changed the spot, as we do in dancing, and though +their feet were not at rest, this exercise consisted more in moving +the fingers very nimbly, at the same time holding the hands in a +prone position near the face, and now and then also clapping them +together.[153] Their motions and songs were performed in such exact +concert, that it should seem they had been taught with great care; +and probably they were selected for this ceremony, as few of those +whom we saw in the crowd equalled them in beauty. In general, they +were rather stout than slender, with black hair flowing in ringlets +down the neck, and of an olive complexion. Their features were rather +fuller than what we allow to perfect beauties, and much alike; but +their eyes were of a deep black, and each countenance expressed a +degree of complacency and modesty, peculiar to the sex in every part +of the world, but perhaps more conspicuous here, where Nature +presented us with her productions in the fullest perfection, +unbiassed in sentiment by custom, or unrestrained in manner by art. +Their shape and limbs were elegantly formed. For, as their dress +consisted only of a piece of glazed cloth fastened about the waist, +and scarcely reaching so low as the knees, in many we had an +opportunity of observing every part. This dance was not finished, +when we heard a noise, as if some horses had been galloping toward +us; and, on looking aside, we saw the people armed with clubs, who +had been desired, as we supposed, to entertain us with the sight of +their manner of fighting. This they now did, one party pursuing +another who fled."</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 153: The dances of the inhabitants of the +Caroline Islands have a great resemblance to those here described. +See Lettres Edif. et Curieuses, tom. xv. p. 315. See also, in the +same volume, p. 207, what is said of the singing and dancing of the +inhabitants of the Palaos Islands, which belong to the same +group.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>"As we supposed the ceremony of being introduced to the chiefs was +at an end, we began to look about for Mr Gore and Omai; and, though +the crowd would hardly suffer us to move, we at length found them +coming up, as much incommoded by the number of people as we had been, +and introduced in the same manner to the three chiefs, whose names +were Otteroo, Taroa, and Fatouweera. Each of these expected a +present; and Mr Gore gave them such things as he had brought with him +from the ship, for that purpose. After this, making use of Omai as +his interpreter, he informed the chiefs with what intention we had +come on shore; but was given to understand, that he must wait till +the next day, and then he should have what was wanted."</p> + +<p>"They now seemed to take some pains to separate us from each +other; and every one of us had his circle to surround and gaze at +him. For my own part, I was, at one time, above an hour apart from my +friends; and when I told the chief, with whom I sat, that I wanted to +speak to Omai, he peremptorily refused my request. At the same time, +I found the people began to steal several trifling things which I had +in my pocket; and when I took the liberty of complaining to the chief +of this treatment, he justified it. From these circumstances, I now +entertained apprehensions, that they might have formed the design of +detaining us amongst them. They did not, indeed, seem to be of a +disposition so savage, as to make us anxious for the safety of our +persons; but it was, nevertheless, vexing to think we had hazarded +being detained by their curiosity. In this situation, I asked for +something to eat; and they readily brought to me some cocoa-nuts, +bread-fruit, and a sort of sour pudding; which was presented by a +woman. And on my complaining much of the heat, occasioned by the +crowd, the chief himself condescended to fan me, and gave me a small +piece of cloth, which he had round his waist."</p> + +<p>"Mr Burney happening to come to the place where I was, I mentioned +my suspicions to him; and, to put it to the test, whether they were +well-founded, we attempted to get to the beach. But we were stopped, +when about halfway, by some men, who told us, that we must go back to +the place which we had left. On coming up, we found Omai entertaining +the same apprehensions. But he had, as he fancied, an additional +reason for being afraid; for he had observed, that they had dug a +hole in the ground for an oven, which they were now heating; and he +could assign no other reason for this, than that they meant to roast +and eat us, as is practised by the inhabitants of New Zealand. Nay, +he went so far as to ask them the question; at which they were +greatly surprised, asking, in return, whether that was a custom with +us? Mr Burney and I were rather angry that they should be thus +suspected by him; there having, as yet, been no appearances, in their +conduct toward us, of their being capable of such brutality."</p> + +<p>"In this manner we were detained the greatest part of the day, +being sometimes together, and sometimes separated, but always in a +crowd; who, not satisfied with gazing at us, frequently desired us to +uncover part of our skin; the sight of which commonly produced a +general murmur of admiration. At the same time they did not omit +these opportunities of rifling our pockets; and, at last, one of them +snatched a small bayonet from Mr Gore, which hung in its sheath by +his side. This was represented to the chief, who pretended to send +some person in search of it. But, in all probability, he countenanced +the theft; for, soon after, Omai had a dagger stolen from his side, +in the same manner, though he did not miss it immediately."</p> + +<p>"Whether they observed any signs of uneasiness in us, or that they +voluntarily repeated their emblems of friendship when we expressed a +desire to go, I cannot tell; but, at this time, they brought some +green boughs, and, sticking their ends in the ground, desired we +might hold them as we sat. Upon out urging again the business we came +upon, they gave us to understand, that we must stay and eat with +them; and a pig which we saw, soon after, lying near the oven, which +they had prepared and heated, removed Omai's apprehension of being +put into it himself; and made us think it might be intended for our +repast. The chief also promised to send some people to procure food +for the cattle; but it was not till pretty late in the afternoon, +that we saw them return with a few plantain-trees, which they carried +to our boats."</p> + +<p>"In the mean time, Mr Barney and I attempted again to go to the +beach; but when we arrived, we found ourselves watched by people, +who, to appearance, had been placed there for this purpose. For when +I tried to wade in upon the reef, one of them took hold of my clothes +and dragged me back. I picked up some small pieces of coral, which +they required me to throw down again; and, on my refusal, they made +no scruple to take them forcibly from me. I had gathered some small +plants, but these also I could not be permitted to retain. And they +took a fan from Mr Barney, which he had received as a present on +coming ashore. Omai said we had done wrong in taking up any thing, +for it was not the custom here to permit freedoms of that kind to +strangers, till they had, in some measure, naturalized them to the +country, by entertaining them with festivity for two or three +days."</p> + +<p>"Finding that the only method of procuring better treatment was to +yield implicit obedience to their will, we went up again to the place +we had left; and they now promised that we should have a canoe to +carry us off to our boats, after we had eaten of a repast which they +had prepared for us."</p> + +<p>"Accordingly the second chief, to whom we had been introduced in +the morning, having seated himself upon a low broad stool of blackish +hard wood, tolerably polished, and, directing the multitude to make a +pretty large ring, made us sit down by him. A considerable number of +cocoa-nuts were now brought, and shortly after a long green basket, +with a sufficient quantity of baked plantains to have served a dozen +persons. A piece of the young hog, that had been dressed, was then +set before each of us, of which we were desired to eat. Our +appetites, however, had failed from the fatigue of the day; and +though we did eat a little to please them, it was without +satisfaction to ourselves."</p> + +<p>"It being now near sun-set, we told them it was time to go on +board. This they allowed, and sent down to the beach the remainder of +the victuals that had been dressed, to be carried with us to the +ships. But, before we set out, Omai was treated with a drink he had +been used to in his own country, which, we observed, was made here, +as at other islands in the South Sea, by chewing the root of a sort +of pepper. We found a canoe ready to put us off to our boats, which +the natives did with the same caution as when we landed. But even +here their thievish disposition did not leave them. For a person of +some consequence among them, who came with us, took an opportunity, +just as they were pushing the canoe into the surf, to snatch a bag +out of her, which I had with the greatest difficulty preserved all +day, there being in it a small pocket-pistol, which I was unwilling +to part with. Perceiving him, I called out, expressing as much +displeasure as I could. On which he thought proper to return, and +swim with the bag to the canoe; but he denied he had stolen it, +though detected in the very act. They put us on board our boats, with +the cocoa-nuts, plantains, and other provisions, which they had +brought, and we rowed to the ships, very well pleased that we had at +last got out of the hands of our troublesome masters."</p> + +<p>"We regretted much that our restrained situation gave us so little +opportunity of making observations on the country; for, during the +whole day, we were seldom a hundred yards from the place where we +were introduced to the chiefs on landing, and consequently, were +confined to the surrounding objects. The first thing that presented +itself, worthy of our notice, was the number of people, which must +have been at least two thousand. For those who welcomed us on the +shore bore no proportion to the multitude we found amongst the trees, +on proceeding a little way up."</p> + +<p>"We could also observe, that, except a few, those we had hitherto +seen on board were of the lower class; for a great number of those we +now met with had a superior dignity in their air, and were of a much +whiter cast. In general, they had the hair tied on the crown of the +head, long, black, and of a most luxuriant growth. Many of the young +men were perfect models in shape, of a complexion as delicate as that +of the women, and, to appearance, of a disposition as amiable. +Others, who were more advanced in years, were corpulent; and all had +a remarkable smoothness of the skin. Their general dress was a piece +of cloth, or mat, wrapped about the waist, and covering the parts +which modesty conceals. But some had pieces of mats, most curiously +varied with black and white, made into a sort of jacket without +sleeves; and others wore conical caps of cocoa-nut core, neatly +interwoven with small beads, made of a shelly substance. Their ears +were pierced; and in them they hung bits of the membranous part of +some plant, or stuck there an odoriferous flower, which seemed to be +a species of <i>gardenia</i>. Some, who were of a superior class, and +also the chiefs, had two little balls, with a common base, made from +the bone of some animal, which was hung round the neck, with a great +many folds of small cord. And after the ceremony of introduction to +the chiefs was over, they then appeared without their red feathers, +which are certainly considered here as a particular mark of +distinction, for none but themselves, and the young women who danced, +assumed them."</p> + +<p>"Some of the men were punctured all over the sides and back in an +uncommon manner; and some of the women had the same ornament on their +legs. But this method was confined to those who seemed to be of a +superior rank; and the men, in that case, were also generally +distinguished by their size and corpulence, unless very young. The +women of an advanced age had their hair cropped short; and many were +cut in oblique lines all over the fore-part of the body; and some of +the wounds, which formed rhomboidal figures, had been so lately +inflicted, that the coagulated blood still remained in them."</p> + +<p>"The wife of one of the chiefs appeared with her child, laid in a +piece of red cloth, which had been presented to her husband, and +seemed to carry it with great tenderness, suckling it much after the +manner of our women. Another chief introduced his daughter, who was +young and beautiful, but appeared with all the timidity natural to +the sex, though she gazed on us with a kind of anxious concern, that +seemed to struggle with her fear, and to express her astonishment at +so unusual a sight. Others advanced with more firmness, and indeed +were less reserved than we expected, but behaved with a becoming +modesty. We did not observe any personal deformities amongst either +sex, except in a few who had scars of broad superficial ulcers +remaining on the face and other parts. In proportion to the number of +people assembled, there appeared not many old men or women; which may +easily be accounted for, by supposing that such as were in an +advanced period of life, might neither have the inclination nor the +ability to come from the more distant parts of the island. On the +other hand, the children were numerous; and both these and the men +climbed the trees to look at us when we were hid by the surrounding +crowd."</p> + +<p>"About a third part of the men were armed with clubs and spears; +and probably these were only the persons who had come from a +distance, as many of them had small baskets, mats, and other things, +fastened to the ends of their weapons. The clubs were generally about +six feet long, made of a hard black wood, lance-shaped at the end, +but much broader, with the edge nicely scolloped, and the whole +neatly polished. Others of them were narrower at the point, much +shorter, and plain; and some were even so small as to be used with +one hand. The spears were made of the same wood, simply pointed, and, +in general, above twelve feet long; though some were so short that +they seemed intended to be thrown as darts."</p> + +<p>"The place where we were all the day was under the shade of +various trees, in which they preserved their canoes from the sun. +About eight or ten of them were here, all double ones, that is, two +single ones fastened together (as is usual throughout the whole +extent of the Pacific Ocean) by rafters lashed across. They were +about twenty feet long, about four feet deep, and the sides rounded +with a plank raised upon them, which was fastened strongly by means +of withes. Two of these canoes were most curiously stained, or +painted, all over with black, in numberless small figures, as +squares, triangles, etc. and excelled by far any thing of that kind I +had ever seen at any other island in this ocean. Our friends here, +indeed, seemed to have exerted more skill in doing this than in +puncturing their own bodies. The paddles were about four feet long, +nearly elliptical, but broader at the upper end than the middle. Near +the same place was a hut or shed, about thirty feet long, and nine or +ten high, in which, perhaps, these boats are built; but at this time +it was empty."</p> + +<p>"The greatest number of the trees around us were +<i>cocoa-palms</i>, some sorts of <i>hibiscus</i>, a species of +<i>euphorbia</i>, and, toward the sea, abundance of the same kind of +trees we had seen at Mangeea Nooe Nainaiwa, and which seemed to +surround the shores of the island in the same manner. They are tall +and slender, not much unlike a cypress, but with bunches of long, +round, articulated leaves. The natives call them <i>etoa</i>. On the +ground we saw some grass, a species of <i>convolvulus</i>, and a good +deal of <i>treacle-mustard</i>. There are also, doubtless, other +fruit-trees and useful plants which we did not see; for, besides +several sorts of <i>plantains</i>, they brought, at different times, +roots which they call <i>taro</i>, (the <i>coccos</i> of other +countries,) a bread-fruit, and a basket of roasted nuts, of a kidney +shape, in taste like a chesnut, but coarser."</p> + +<p>"What the soil of the island may be farther inland we could not +tell, but toward the sea it is nothing more than a bank of coral, ten +or twelve feet high, steep and rugged, except where there are small +sandy beaches at some clefts, where the ascent is gradual. The coral, +though it has probably been exposed to the weather for many +centuries, has undergone no farther change than becoming black on the +surface, which, from its irregularity, is not much unlike large +masses of a burnt substance. But, on breaking some pieces off, we +found that, at the depth of two or three inches, it was just as fresh +as the pieces that had been lately thrown upon the beach by the +waves. The reef, or rock, that lines the shore entirely, runs to +different breadths into the sea, where it ends all at once, and +becomes like a high, steep wall. It is nearly even with the surface +of the water, and of a brown or brick colour; but the texture is +rather porous, yet sufficient to withstand the washing of the surf +which continually breaks upon it."</p> + +<p>Though the landing of our gentlemen proved the means of enriching +my journal with the foregoing particulars, the principal object I had +in view was, in a great measure, unattained; for the day was spent +without getting any one thing from the island worth mentioning. The +natives, however, were gratified with a sight they never before had, +and probably will never have again. And mere curiosity seems to have +been their chief motive for keeping the gentlemen under such +restraint, and for using every art to prolong their continuance +amongst them.</p> + +<p>It has been mentioned that Omai was sent upon this expedition; and +perhaps his being Mr Gore's interpreter was not the only service he +performed this day. He was asked by the natives a great many +questions concerning us, our ships, our country, and the sort of arms +we used; and, according to the account he gave me, his answers were +not a little upon the marvellous. As, for instance, he told them that +our country had ships as large as their island, on board which were +instruments of war (describing our guns) of such dimensions that +several people might sit within them, and that one of them was +sufficient to crush the whole island at one shot. This led them to +enquire of him what sort of guns we actually had in our two ships. He +said, that though they were but small in comparison with those he had +just described, yet, with such as they were, we could, with the +greatest ease, and at the distance the ships were from the shore, +destroy the island, and kill every soul in it. They persevered in +their enquiries, to know by what means this could be done; and Omai +explained the matter as well as he could. He happened luckily to have +a few cartridges in his pocket. These he produced; the balls, and the +gunpowder which was to set them in motion, were submitted to +inspection; and, to supply the defects of his description, an appeal +was made to the senses of the spectators. It has been mentioned +above, that one of the chiefs had ordered the multitude to form +themselves into a circle. This furnished Omai with a convenient stage +for his exhibition. In the centre of this amphitheatre, the +inconsiderable quantity of gunpowder collected from his cartridges +was properly disposed upon the ground, and, by means of a bit of +burning wood from the oven, where dinner was dressing, set on fire. +The sudden blast and loud report, the mingled flame and smoke, that +instantly succeeded, now filled the whole assembly with astonishment. +They no longer doubted the tremendous power of our weapons, and gave +full credit to all that Omai had said.</p> + +<p>If it had not been for the terrible ideas they conceived of the +guns of our ships, from this specimen of their mode of operation, it +was thought that they would have detained the gentlemen all night. +For Omai assured them, that if he and his companions did not return +on board the same day, they might expect that I would fire upon the +island. And as we stood in nearer the land in the evening, than we +had done any time before, of which position of the ships they were +observed to take great notice, they probably thought we were +meditating this formidable attack, and, therefore, suffered their +guests to depart; under the expectation, however, of seeing them +again on shore next morning. But I was too sensible of the risk they +had already run, to think of a repetition of the experiment.</p> + +<p>This day, it seems, was destined to give Omai more occasions than +one of being brought forward to bear a principal part in its +transactions. The island, though never before visited by Europeans, +actually happened to have other strangers residing in it; and it was +entirely owing to Omai's being one of Mr Gore's attendants, that this +curious circumstance came to our knowledge.</p> + +<p>Scarcely had he been landed upon the beach, when he found, amongst +the crowd there assembled, three of his own countrymen, natives of +the Society Islands. At the distance of about 200 leagues from those +islands, an immense, unknown ocean intervening, with such wretched +sea-boats as their inhabitants are known to make use of, and fit only +for a passage where sight of land is scarcely ever lost, such a +meeting, at such a place, so accidentally visited by us, may well be +looked upon as one of those unexpected situations with which the +writers of feigned adventures love to surprise their readers, and +which, when they really happen in common life, deserve to be recorded +for their singularity.</p> + +<p>It may easily be guessed with what mutual surprise and +satisfaction Omai and his countrymen engaged in conversation. Their +story, as related by them, is an affecting one. About twenty persons +in number, of both sexes, had embarked on board a canoe at Otaheite, +to cross over to the neighbouring island Ulietea. A violent contrary +wind arising, they could neither reach the latter nor get back to the +former. Their intended passage being a very short one, their stock of +provisions was scanty, and soon exhausted. The hardships they +suffered, while driven along by the storm they knew not whither, are +not to be conceived. They passed many days without having any thing +to eat or drink. Their numbers gradually diminished, worn out by +famine and fatigue. Four men only survived when the canoe overset, +and then the perdition of this small remnant seemed inevitable. +However, they kept hanging by the side of their vessel during some of +the last days, till Providence brought them in sight of the people of +this island, who immediately sent out canoes, took them off their +wreck, and brought them ashore. Of the four who were thus saved, one +was since dead. The other three, who lived to have this opportunity +of giving an account of their almost miraculous transplantation, +spoke highly of the kind treatment they here met with. And so well +satisfied were they with their situation, that they refused the offer +made to them by our gentlemen, at Omai's request, of giving them a +passage on board our ships, to restore them to their native islands. +The similarity of manners and language had more than naturalized them +to this spot; and the fresh connexions which they had here formed, +and which it would have been painful to have broken off after such a +length of time, sufficiently account for their declining to revisit +the places of their birth. They had arrived upon this island at least +twelve years ago. For I learnt from Mr Anderson, that he found they +knew nothing of Captain Wallis's visit to Otaheite in 1765, nor of +several other memorable occurrences, such as the conquest of Ulietea +by those of Bolabola, which had preceded the arrival of the +Europeans. To Mr Anderson I am also indebted for their names, +Orououte, Otirreroa, and Tavee; the first born at Matavai in +Otaheite, the second at Ulietea, and the third at Huaheine.</p> + +<p>The landing of our gentlemen on this island, though they failed in +the object of it, cannot but be considered as a very fortunate +circumstance. It has proved, as we have seen, the means of bringing +to our knowledge a matter of fact, not only very curious, but very +instructive. The application of the above narrative is obvious. It +will serve to explain, better than a thousand conjectures of +speculative reasoners, how the detached parts of the earth, and, in +particular, how the islands of the South Sea, may have been first +peopled, especially those that lie remote from any inhabited +continent, or from each other.[154]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 154: Such accidents as this here related, +probably happen frequently in the Pacific Ocean. In 1696, two canoes, +having on board thirty persons of both sexes, were driven by contrary +winds and tempestuous weather on the isle of Samal, one of the +Philippines, after being tossed about at sea seventy days, and having +performed a voyage from an island called by them Arnorsot, 300 +leagues to the E. of Samal. Five of the number who had embarked died +of the hardships suffered during this extraordinary passage. See a +particular account of them, and of the islands they belonged to, in +Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses, tom. xv. from p. 196 to p. 215. In +the same volume, from p. 282 to p. 320, we have the relation of a +similar adventure in 1721, when two canoes, one containing +twenty-four, and the other six, persons, men, women, and children, +were driven from an island they called Farroilep, northward to the +Isle of Guam, or Guahan, one of the Ladrones or Mariannes. But these +had not sailed so far as their countrymen who reached Samal, as +above, and they had been at sea only twenty days. There seems to be +no reason to doubt the general authenticity of these two relations. +The information contained in the Letters of the Jesuits about these +islands, now known under the name of the Carolines, and discovered to +the Spaniards by the arrival of the canoes at Samal and Guam, has +been adopted by all our later writers. See President de Brosse's +Voyages aux Terres Australes, tom. ii. from p. 443 to p. 490. See +also the Modern Universal History.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>This island is called Wateeoo by the natives. It lies in the +latitude of 20° 1' S. and in the longitude 201° 45' E., and +is about six leagues in circumference. It is a beautiful spot, with a +surface composed of hills and plains, and covered with verdure of +many hues. Our gentlemen found the soil, where they passed the day, +to be light and sandy. But farther up the country, a different sort +perhaps prevails, as we saw from the ship, by the help of our +glasses, a reddish cast upon the rising grounds. There the +inhabitants have their houses; for we could perceive two or three, +which were long and spacious. Its produce, with the addition of hogs, +we found to be the same as at the last island we had visited, which +the people of this, to whom we pointed out its position, called +Owhavarouah, a name so different from Mangeea Nooe Nainaiwa, which we +learnt from its own inhabitants, that it is highly probably +Owhavarouah is another island.</p> + +<p>From the circumstances already mentioned, it appears that Wateeoo +can be of little use to any ship that wants refreshment, unless in a +case of the most absolute necessity. The natives, knowing now the +value of some of our commodities, might be induced to bring off +fruits and hogs to a ship standing off and on, or to boats lying off +the reef, as ours did. It is doubtful, however, if any fresh water +could be procured; for, though some was brought in cocoa-nut shells +to the gentlemen, they were told that it was at a considerable +distance; and, probably, it is only to be met with in some stagnant +pool, as no running stream was any where seen.</p> + +<p>According to Omai's report of what he learnt in conversation with +his three countrymen, the manners of these islanders, their method of +treating strangers, and their general habits of life, are much like +those that prevail at Otaheite, and its neighbouring isles. Their +religious ceremonies and opinions are also nearly the same. For, upon +seeing one man who was painted all over of a deep black colour, and +enquiring the reason, our gentlemen were told that he had lately been +paying the last good offices to a deceased friend; and they found, +that it was upon similar occasions the women cut themselves, as +already mentioned. From, every circumstance, indeed, it is +indubitable, that the natives of Wateeoo sprung originally from the +same stock, which hath spread itself so wonderfully all over the +immense extent of the South Sea. One would suppose, however, that +they put in their claim to a more illustrious extraction; for Omai +assured us, that they dignified their island with the appellation of +<i>Wenooa no te Eatooa</i>, that is, A land of gods; esteeming +themselves a sort of divinities, and possessed with the spirit of the +Eatooa. This wild enthusiastic notion Omai seemed much to approve of, +telling us there were instances of its being entertained at Otaheite, +but that it was universally prevalent amongst the inhabitants of +Mataia, or Osnaburg Island.</p> + +<p>The language spoken at Wateeoo was equally well understood by +Omai, and by our two New Zealanders. What its peculiarities may be, +when compared with the other dialects, I am not able to point out; +for, though Mr Anderson had taken care to note down a specimen of it, +the natives, who made no distinction of the objects of their theft, +stole the memorandum book.</p> + +<p>SECTION III.</p> + +<p><i>Wenooa-ette, or Otokootaia, visited.--Account of that Island, +and of its Produce.--Hervey's Island, or Terougge mou Attooa, found +to be inhabited.--Transactions with the Natives,--Their Persons, +Dress, Language, Canoes.--Fruitless Attempt to land there.--Reasons +for bearing away for the Friendly Islands.--Palmerston's Island +touched at.--Description of the two Places where the Boats +landed.--Refreshments obtained there.--Conjectures on the Formation +of such low Islands.--Arrival at the Friendly Islands</i>.</p> + +<p>Light airs and calms having prevailed, by turns, all the night of +the 3d of April, the easterly swell had carried the ships some +distance from Wateeoo before day-break. But as I had failed in my +object of procuring at that place some effectual supply, I saw no +reason for staying there any longer. I therefore quitted it, without +regret, and steered, for the neighbouring island, which, as has been +mentioned, we discovered three days before.</p> + +<p>With a gentle breeze at E. we got up with it before ten o'clock in +the morning, and I immediately dispatched Mr Gore, with two boats, to +endeavour to land, and get some food for our cattle. As there seemed +to be no inhabitants here to obstruct our taking away whatever we +might think proper, I was confident of his being able to make amends +for our late disappointment, if the landing could be effected. There +was a reef here surrounding the land as at Wateeoo, and a +considerable surf breaking against the rocks. Notwithstanding which, +our boats no sooner reached the lee, or west side of the island, but +they ventured in, and Mr Gore and his party got safe on shore. I +could, from the ship, see that they had succeeded so far, and I +immediately sent a small boat to know what farther assistance was +wanting. She did not return till three o'clock in the afternoon, +having waited to take in a lading of what useful produce the island +afforded. As soon as she was cleared, she was sent again for another +cargo; the jolly boat was also dispatched, and Mr Gore was ordered to +be on board, with all the boats, before night, which was complied +with.</p> + +<p>The supply obtained here consisted of about a hundred cocoa nuts +for each ship; and, besides this refreshment for ourselves, we got +for our cattle some grass, and a quantity of the leaves and branches +of young cocoa-trees, and of the <i>wharra</i>-tree, as it is called +at Otaheite, the <i>pandanus</i> of the East Indies. This latter +being of a soft, spungy, juicy nature, the cattle eat it very well +when cut into small pieces; so that it might be said, without any +deviation from truth, that we fed them upon billet wood.</p> + +<p>This island lies in the latitude of 19° 51' S. and the +longitude of 201° 37' E, about three or four leagues from +Wateeoo, the inhabitants of which called it Otakootaia; and sometimes +they spoke of it under the appellation of Wenooa-ette, which +signifies little island. Mr Anderson, who was on shore with our +party, and walked round it, guessed that it could not be much more +than three miles in circuit. From him I also learned the following +particulars: The beach, within the reef, is composed of a white coral +sand, above which the land within does not rise above six or seven +feet, and is covered with a light reddish soil, but is entirely +destitute of water.</p> + +<p>The only common trees found there were cocoa-palms, of which there +were several clusters, and vast numbers of the <i>wharra</i>. There +was likewise the <i>callophyllum, suriana, guettarda</i>, a species +of <i>tournefortia</i>, and <i>tabernae montanae</i>, with a few +other shrubs, and some of the <i>etoa</i> tree seen at Wateeoo. A +sort of bind-weed over-ran the vacant spaces, except in some places, +where was found a considerable quantity of <i>treacle-mustard</i>, a +species of <i>spurge</i>, with a few other small plants, and the +<i>morinda citrifolia</i>, the fruit of which is eaten by the natives +of Otaheite in times of scarcity. Omai, who had landed with the +party, dressed some of it for their dinner, but it proved very +indifferent.</p> + +<p>The only bird seen amongst the trees was a beautiful cuckoo, of a +chesnut brown, variegated with black, which was shot. But upon the +shore were some egg-birds; a small sort of curlew; blue and white +herons; and a great number of noddies; which last, at this time, laid +their eggs a little farther up on the ground, and often rested on the +wharra-tree.</p> + +<p>One of our people caught a lizard of a most forbidding aspect, +though small, running up a tree; and many of another sort were seen. +The bushes toward the sea were frequented by infinite cumbers of a +sort of moth, elegantly speckled with red, black, and white. There +were also several other sorts of moths, as well as some pretty +butterflies, and a few other insects.</p> + +<p>Though there were, at this time, no fixed inhabitants upon the +island, indubitable marks remained of its being at least occasionally +frequented. In particular, a few empty huts were found. There were +also several large stones erected, like monuments, under the shade of +some trees, and several spaces inclosed with smaller ones, where, +probably, the dead had been buried. And, in one place, a great many +cockle-shells, of a particular sort, finely grooved, and larger than +the first, were to be seen; from which it was reasonable to +conjecture, that the island had been visited by persons who feed +partly on shell-fish. In one of the huts Mr Gore left a hatchet and +some nails, to the full value of what we took away.</p> + +<p>As soon as the boats were hoisted in, I made sail again to the +northward, with a light air of wind easterly, intending to try our +fortune at Hervey's Island, which was discovered in 1773, during my +last voyage. Although it was not above fifteen leagues distant, yet +we did not get sight of it till day-break in the morning of the 6th, +when it bore W.S.W. at the distance of about three leagues. As we +drew near it, at eight o'clock, we observed several canoes put off +from the shore, and they came directly toward the ships. This was a +sight that indeed surprised me, as no signs of inhabitants were seen +when the island was first discovered; which might be owing to a +pretty brisk wind that then blew, and prevented their canoes +venturing out as the ships passed to leeward, whereas now we were to +windward.</p> + +<p>As we still kept on toward the island, six or seven of the canoes, +all double ones, soon came near us. There were from three to six men +in each of them. They stopped at the distance of about a stone's +throw from the ship, and it was some time before Omai could prevail +upon them to come along-side; but no entreaties could induce any of +them to venture on board. Indeed, their disorderly and clamorous +behaviour by no means indicated a disposition to trust us, or treat +us well. We afterward learnt that they had attempted to take some +oars out of the Discovery's boat, that lay along-side, and struck a +man who endeavoured to prevent them. They also cut away, with a +shell, a net with meat, which hung over that ship's stern, and +absolutely refused to restore it, though we afterward purchased it +from them. Those who were about our ship behaved in the same daring +manner; for they made a sort of hook of a long stick, with which they +endeavoured openly to rob us of several things, and, at last, +actually got a frock, belonging to one of our people that was towing, +overboard. At the same time they immediately shewed a knowledge of +bartering, and sold some fish they had (amongst which was an +extraordinary flounder, spotted like porphyry, and a cream-coloured +eel, spotted with black) for small nails, of which they were +immoderately fond, and called them <i>goore</i>. But, indeed, they +caught with the greatest avidity bits of paper, or any thing else +that was thrown to them; and if what was thrown fell into the sea, +they made no scruple to swim after it.</p> + +<p>These people seemed to differ as much in person as in disposition +from the natives of Wateeoo, though the distance between the two +islands is not very great. Their colour was of a deeper cast; and +several had a fierce, rugged aspect, resembling the natives of New +Zealand, but some were fairer. They had strong black hair, which, in +general, they wore either hanging loose about the shoulders, or tied +in a bunch on the crown of the head. Some, however, had it cropped +pretty short; and in two or three of them it was of a brown or +reddish colour. Their only covering was a narrow piece of mat, wrapt +several times round the lower part of the body, and which passed +between the thighs; but a fine cap of red feathers was seen lying in +one of the canoes. The shell of a pearl-oyster polished, and hung +about the neck, was the only ornamental fashion that we observed +amongst them, for not one of them had adopted that mode of ornament +so generally prevalent amongst the natives of this ocean, of +puncturing, or <i>tatooing</i>, their bodies.</p> + +<p>Though singular in this, we had the most unequivocal proofs of +their being of the same common race. Their language approached still +nearer to the dialect of Otaheite than that of Wateeoo or Mangeea. +Like the inhabitants of these two islands, they enquired from whence +our ships came, and whither bound, who was our chief, the number of +our men on board, and even the ship's name. And they very readily +answered such questions as we proposed to them. Amongst other things, +they told us they had seen two great ships like ours before, but that +they had not spoken with them as they sailed past. There can be no +doubt that these were the Resolution and Adventure. We learnt from +them, that the name of their island is Terouggemon Atooa, and that +they were subject to Teerevatooeah, king of Wateeoo.[155] According +to the account that they gave, their articles of food are cocoa-nuts, +fish, and turtle; the island not producing plantains, or bread-fruit, +and being destitute of hogs and dogs. Their canoes, of which near +thirty were, at one time, in sight, are pretty large, and well built. +In the construction of the stern, they bear some resemblance to those +of Wateeoo; and the head projects out nearly in the same manner, but +the extremity is turned up instead of down.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 155: The reader will observe, that this name +bears little affinity to anyone of the names of the three chiefs of +Wateeoo, as preserved by Mr Anderson.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>Having but very little wind, it was one o'clock before we drew +near the N.W. part of the island, the only part where there seemed to +be any probability of finding anchorage for our ships, or a +landing-place for our boats. In this position I sent Lieutenant King, +with two armed boats, to sound and reconnoitre the coast, while we +stood off and on with the ships. The instant the boats were hoisted +out, our visitors in the canoes, who had remained alongside all the +while, bartering their little trifles, suspended their traffic, and, +pushing for the shore as fast as they could, came near us no +more.</p> + +<p>At three o'clock the boats returned, and Mr King informed me, +"That there was no anchorage for the ships, and that the boats could +only land on the outer edge of the reef, which lay about a quarter of +a mile from the dry land. He said that a number of the natives came +down upon the reef, armed with long pikes and clubs, as if they +intended to oppose his landing. And yet, when he drew near enough, +they threw some cocoa-nuts to our people, and invited them to come on +shore, though, at the very same time, he observed that the women were +very busy bringing down a fresh supply of spears and darts. But, as +he had no motive to land, he did not give them an opportunity to use +them."</p> + +<p>Having received this report, I considered, that, as the ships +could not be brought to an anchor, we should find that the attempt to +procure grass here would occasion much delay, as well as be attended +with some danger. Besides, we were equally in want of water; and +though the inhabitants had told us that there was water on their +island, yet we neither knew in what quantity, nor from what distance +we might be obliged to fetch it. And, after all, supposing no other +obstruction, we were sure, that to get over the reef would be an +operation equally difficult and tedious.</p> + +<p>Being thus disappointed at all the islands we had met with since +our leaving New Zealand, and the unfavourable winds, and other +unforeseen circumstances, having unavoidably retarded our progress so +much, it was now impossible to think of doing any thing this year in +the high latitudes of the northern hemisphere, from which we were +still at so great a distance, though the season for our operations +there was already begun. In this situation it was absolutely +necessary to pursue such measures as were most likely to preserve the +cattle we had on board in the first place; and, in the next place, +(which was still a more capital object,) to save the stores and +provisions of the ships, that we might be better enabled to prosecute +our northern discoveries, which could not now commence till a year +later than was originally intended.</p> + +<p>If I had been so fortunate as to have procured a supply of water +and of grass at any of the islands we had lately visited, it was my +purpose to have stood back to the S. till I had met with a westerly +wind. But the certain consequence of doing this, without such a +supply, would have been the loss of all the cattle, before we could +possibly reach Otaheite, without gaining any one advantage with +regard to the great object of our voyage.</p> + +<p>I therefore determined to bear away for the Friendly Islands, +where I was sure of meeting with abundance of every thing I wanted; +and it being necessary to run in the night as well as in the day, I +ordered Captain Clerke to keep about a league a-head of the +Resolution. I used this precaution because his ship could best claw +off the land; and it was very possible we might fall in with some in +our passage.</p> + +<p>The longitude of Hervey's Island, when first discovered, deduced +from Otaheite, by the time-keeper, was found to be 201° 6' E., +and now, by the same time-keeper, deduced from Queen Charlotte's +Sound, 200° 56' E. Hence I conclude, that the error of the +time-keeper, at this time, did not exceed twelve miles in +longitude.</p> + +<p>When we bore away, I steered W. by S. with a fine breeze easterly. +I proposed to proceed first to Middleburgh, or Eooa, thinking, if the +wind continued favourable, that we had food enough on board for the +cattle to last till we should reach that island. But, about noon next +day, those faint breezes that had attended and retarded us so long, +again returned; and I found it necessary to haul more to the N. to +get into the latitude of Palmerston's and Savage Islands, discovered +in 1774, during my last voyage, that, if necessity required it, we +might have recourse to them.</p> + +<p>This day, in order to save our water, I ordered the still to be +kept at work from six o'clock in the morning to four in the +afternoon, during which time we procured from thirteen to sixteen +gallons of fresh water. There has been lately made some improvement, +as they are pleased to call it, of this machine, which, in my +opinion, is much for the, worse.</p> + +<p>These light breezes continued till the 10th, when we had, for some +hours, the wind blowing fresh from the N. and N.N.W., being then in +the latitude of 18° 38', and longitude 198° 24' E. In the +afternoon we had some thunder squalls from the S. attended with heavy +rain; of which water we collected enough to fill five puncheons. +After these squalls had blown over, the wind came round to the N.E. +and N.W., being very unsettled both in strength and in position till +about noon the next day, when it fixed at N.W. and N.N.W. and blew a +fresh breeze, with fair weather.</p> + +<p>Thus were we persecuted with a wind in our teeth whichever way we +directed our course; and we had the additional mortification to find +here those very winds which we had reason to expect 8° or 10° +farther S. They came too late, for I durst not trust their +continuance; and the event proved that I judged right.</p> + +<p>At length, at day-break in the morning of the 13th, we saw +Palmerston Island, bearing W. by S. distant about five leagues. +However, we did not get up with it till eight o'clock the next +morning. I then sent four boats, three from the Resolution and one +from the Discovery, with an officer in each, to search the coast for +the most convenient landing-place. For now we were under an absolute +necessity of procuring from this island some food for the cattle, +otherwise we must have lost them.</p> + +<p>What is comprehended under the name of Palmerston's Island, is a +group of small islets, of which there are in the whole nine or ten, +lying in a circular direction, and connected together, by a reef of +coral rocks. The boats first examined the south-easternmost of the +islets which compose this group, and, failing there, ran down to the +second, where we had the satisfaction to see them land. I then bore +down with the ships till abreast of the place, and there we kept +standing off and on; for no bottom was to be found to anchor upon, +which was not of much consequence, as the party who had landed from +our boats were the only human beings upon the island.</p> + +<p>About one o'clock one of the boats came on board, laden with +scurvy-grass and young cocoa-nut trees, which, at this time, was a +feast for the cattle. The same boat brought a message from Mr Gore, +who commanded the party, informing me that there was plenty of such +produce upon the island, as also of the wharra tree, and some +cocoa-nuts. This determined me to get a good supply of these articles +before I quitted this station, and, before evening, I went ashore in +a small boat, accompanied by Captain Clerke.</p> + +<p>We found every body hard at work, and the landing place to be in a +small creek, formed by the reef, of something more than a boat's +length in every direction, and covered from the force of the sea by +rocks projecting out on each side of it. The island is scarcely a +mile in circuit, and not above three feet higher than the level of +the sea. It appeared to be composed entirely of a coral sand, with a +small mixture of blackish mould, produced from rotten vegetables. +Notwithstanding this poor soil, it is covered with trees and bushes +of the same kind as at Wanooa-ette, though with less variety; and +amongst these are some cocoa palms. Upon the trees or bushes that +front the sea, or even farther in, we found a great number of +men-of-war birds, tropic birds, and two sorts of boobies, which at +this time were laying their eggs, and so tame, that they suffered us +to take them off with our hands. Their nests were only a few sticks +loosely put together; and the tropic birds laid their eggs on the +ground, under the trees. These differ much from the common sort, +being entirely of a most splendid white, slightly tinged with red, +and having the two long tail-feathers of a deep crimson or blood +colour. Of each sort our people killed a considerable number; and, +though not the most delicate food, they were acceptable enough to us +who had been long confined to a salt diet, and who, consequently, +could not but be glad of the most indifferent variety. We met with +vast numbers of red crabs, creeping about every where amongst the +trees; and we caught several fish that had been left in holes upon +the reef when the sea retired.</p> + +<p>At one part of the reef, which looks into, or bounds, the lake +that is within, there was a large bed of coral, almost even with the +surface, which afforded, perhaps, one of the most enchanting +prospects that nature has any where produced. Its base was fixed to +the shore, but reached so far in that it could not be seen; so that +it seemed to be suspended in the water, which deepened so suddenly, +that at the distance of a few yards there might be seven or eight +fathoms. The sea was at this time quite unruffled; and the sun +shining bright, exposed the various sorts of coral in the most +beautiful order; some parts branching into the water with great +luxuriance; others lying collected in round balls, and in various +other figures;--all which were greatly heightened by spangles of the +richest colours, that glowed from a number of large clams, which were +every where interspersed: But the appearance of these was still +inferior to that of the multitude of fishes that glided gently along, +seemingly with the most perfect security. The colours of the +different sorts were the most beautiful that can be imagined, the +yellow, blue, red, black, etc. far exceeding any thing that art can +produce. Their various forms, also, contributed to increase the +richness of this submarine grotto, which could not be surveyed +without a pleasing transport, mixed however with regret, that a work +so stupendously elegant should be concealed in a place where mankind +could seldom have an opportunity of rendering the praises justly due +to so enchanting a scene.[156]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 156: How beautifully does Captain Cook's +description illustrate those lines of Dr Young-- + +<pre> + --Such blessings Nature pours, + O'erstock'd mankind enjoy but half her stores; + In distant wilds, by human eyes unseen, + + She rears her flowers, and spreads her velvet green: + Pure gurgling rills the lonely desert trace, + And waste their music on the savage race. +</pre> + +<p>Gray has a similar thought in His inimitable elegy, which every +reader will immediately recollect. Can it be imagined, that nature, +which does nothing in vain, nor indeed without a reference to the +being who is eminently signalized as lord of the lower creation, has +been at pains to decorate these spots, but in anticipation, if one +may use the expression, of the praise and enjoyment which their +loveliness will some time or other occasion? He that remembers the +nature and formation of the coral isles in the southern-ocean, will +at once conjecture that the Great Architect is raising up the +materials of a new world, which, from aught we can yet perceive, will +not less indicate his power and goodness than that which we now +inhabit. How readily, then, can imagination fashion out the future +destiny of our globe, on the supposition that the conflagration by +which its presently inhabited portions are expected to be destroyed, +shall not be so complete as to annihilate it from the universe! Or, +believing what is usually understood, by that event, on the authority +of scripture, how clearly can reason deduce from present appearances +certain minor, but nevertheless immense, changes, which it may +undergo previous to this final dissolution! But the reader, it is +probable, will not chuse to venture on so terrific an excursion, and +there is a motive for caution with respect to it, with which it may +not be amiss to apprise the too zealous enquirer. The fact is, that +none of the causes which we know to be now operating on our globe, +seem at all adequate to account for all the changes it has already +undergone. We may, therefore, very fairly infer, that an indefinite +allowance must be granted to exterior interference of some sort or +other, the agency of which may altogether subvert whatever is now +known to exist.--See Cuvier's Essay, lately published at +Edinburgh.--E.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>There were no traces of inhabitants having ever been here, if we +except a small piece of a canoe that was found upon the beach, which, +probably, may have drifted from some other island. But, what is +pretty extraordinary, we saw several small brown rats on this spot, a +circumstance, perhaps, difficult to account for, unless we allow that +they were imported in the canoe of which we saw the remains.</p> + +<p>After the boats were laden I returned on board, leaving Mr Gore, +with a party, to pass the night on shore, in order to be ready to go +to work early the next morning.</p> + +<p>That day, being the 15th, was accordingly spent as the preceding +one had been, in collecting and bringing on board food for the +cattle, consisting chiefly of palm-cabbage, young cocoa-nut trees, +and the tender branches of the wharra tree. Having got a sufficient +supply of these by sun-set, I ordered every body on board. But having +little or no wind, I determined to wait, and to employ the next day +by endeavouring to get some cocoa-nuts for our people from the next +island to leeward, where we could observe that those trees were in +much greater abundance than upon that where we had already landed, +and where only the wants of our cattle had been relieved.</p> + +<p>With this view I kept standing off and on all night, and in the +morning, between eight and nine o'clock, I went with the boats to the +W. side of the island, and landed with little difficulty. I +immediately set the people with me to work to gather cocoa-nuts, +which we found in great abundance. But to get them to our boats was a +tedious operation, for we were obliged to carry them at least half a +mile over the reef up to the middle in water. Omai, who was with me, +caught, with a scoop net, in a very short time, as much fish as +served the whole party on shore for dinner, besides sending some to +both ships. Here were also great abundance of birds, particularly +men-of-war and tropic birds, so that we fared sumptuously. And it is +but doing justice to Omai to say, that in these excursions to the +uninhabited islands he was of the greatest use; for he not only +caught the fish, but dressed these, and the birds we killed, in an +oven with heated stones, after the fashion of his country, with a +dexterity and good-humour that did him great credit. The boats made +two trips before night, well laden: With the last I returned on +board, leaving Mr Williamson, my third lieutenant, with a party of +men, to prepare another lading for the boats, which I proposed to +send next morning.</p> + +<p>I accordingly dispatched them at seven o'clock; and they returned +laden by noon. No time was lost in sending them back for another +cargo; and they carried orders for every body to be on board by +sunset. This being complied with, we hoisted in the boats and made +sail to the westward, with a light air of wind from the N.</p> + +<p>We found this islet near a half larger than the other, and almost +entirely covered with cocoa-palms, the greatest part of which +abounded with excellent nuts, having often both old and young on the +same tree. They were, indeed, too thick in many places to grow with +freedom. The other productions were, in general, the same as at the +other islet. Two pieces of board, one of which was rudely carved, +with an elliptical paddle, were found on the beach. Probably these +had belonged to the same canoe, the remains of which were seen on the +other beach, as the two islets are not above half a mile apart. A +young turtle had also been lately thrown ashore here; as it was still +full of maggots. There were fewer crabs than at the last place; but +we found some scorpions, a few other insects, and a greater number of +fish upon the reefs. Amongst these were some large eels, beautifully +spotted, which, when followed, would raise themselves out of the +water, and endeavour with an open mouth to bite their pursuers. The +other sorts were chiefly parrot-fish, snappers, and a brown spotted +rock-fish, about the size of a haddock, so tame, that instead of +swimming away, it would remain fixed and gaze at us. Had we been in +absolute want, a sufficient supply might have been had; for thousands +of the clams, already mentioned, stuck upon the reef, some of which +weighed two or three pounds. There were, besides, some other sorts of +shell-fish, particularly the large periwinkle. When the tide flowed +several sharks came in over the reef, some of which our people +killed, but they rendered it rather dangerous to walk in the water at +that time.</p> + +<p>The party who were left on shore with Mr Williamson, were a good +deal pestered (as Mr Gore's had been) with musquitoes in the night. +Some of them, in their excursions, shot two curlews, exactly like +those of England, and saw some plovers, or sand-pipers, upon the +shore; but in the wood no other bird, besides one or two of the +cuckoos that were seen at Wenooa-ette.</p> + +<p>Upon the whole, we did not spend our time unprofitably at this +last islet, for we got there about twelve hundred cocoa-nuts, which +were equally divided amongst the whole crew, and were, doubtless, of +great use to them, both on account of the juice and of the kernel. A +ship, therefore, passing this way, if the weather be moderate, may +expect to succeed as we did. But there is no water upon either of the +islets where we landed. Were that article to be had, and a passage +could be got into the lake, as we may call it, surrounded by the +reef, where a ship could anchor, I should prefer this to any of the +inhabited islands, if the only want were refreshment. For the +quantity of fish that might be procured would be sufficient, and the +people might roam about unmolested by the petulance of any +inhabitants.</p> + +<p>The nine or ten low islets, comprehended under the name of +Palmerston's Island, may be reckoned the heads or summits of the reef +of coral rock that connects them together, covered only with a thin +coat of sand, yet clothed, as already observed, with trees and +plants, most of which are of the same sorts that are found on the low +grounds of the high islands of this ocean.</p> + +<p>There are different opinions amongst ingenious theorists +concerning the formation of such low islands as Palmerston's. Some +will have it, that in remote times these little separate heads or +islets were joined, and formed one continued and more elevated tract +of land, which the sea, in the revolution of ages, has washed away, +leaving only the higher grounds; which, in time also, will, according +to this theory, share the same fate. Another conjecture is, that they +have been thrown up by earthquakes, and are the effect of internal +convulsions of the globe. A third opinion, and which appears to me as +the most probable one, maintains, that they are formed from shoals or +coral banks, and, of consequence, increasing. Without mentioning the +several arguments made use of in support of each of these systems, I +shall only describe such parts of Palmerston's Island as fell under +my own observation when I landed upon it.</p> + +<p>The foundation is every where a coral rock; the soil is coral +sand, with which the decayed vegetables have but in a few places +intermixed, so as to form any thing like mould. From this a very +strong presumption may be drawn, that these little spots of land are +not of very ancient date, nor the remains of larger islands now +buried in the ocean; for, upon either of these suppositions, more +mould must have been formed, or some part of the original soil would +have remained. Another circumstance confirmed this doctrine of the +increase of these islets. We found upon them, far beyond the present +reach of the sea even in the most violent storms, elevated coral +rocks, which, on examination, appeared to have been perforated in the +same manner that the rocks are that now compose the outer edge of the +reef. This evidently shews that the sea had formerly reached so far; +and some of these perforated rocks were almost in the centre of the +land.</p> + +<p>But the strongest proof of the increase, and from the cause we +have assigned, was the gentle gradation observable in the plants +round the skirts of the islands; from within a few inches of +high-water mark to the edge of the wood. In many places, the +divisions of the plants of different growths were very +distinguishable, especially on the lee or west side. This I apprehend +to have been the operation of extraordinary high tides, occasioned by +violent, accidental gales from the westward, which have heaped up the +sand beyond the reach of common tides. The regular and gentle +operation of these latter, again, throw up sand enough to form a +barrier against the next extraordinary high tide or storm, so as to +prevent its reaching as far as the former had done, and destroying +the plants that may have begun to vegetate from cocoa-nuts, roots, +and seed brought thither by birds, or thrown up by the sea. This, +doubtless, happens very frequently, for we found many cocoa-nuts, and +some other things, just sprouting up, only a few inches beyond where +the sea reaches at present, in places where it was evident they could +not have had their origin from those farther in, already arrived at +their full growth. At the same time, the increase of vegetables will +add fast to the height of this new-created land, as the fallen leaves +and broken branches are, in such a climate, soon converted into a +true black mould or soil.[157]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 157: Mr Anderson, in his journal, mentions the +following particulars relative to Palmerston's Island, which strongly +confirm Captain Cook's opinion about its formation. "On the last of +the two islets, where we landed, the trees, being in great numbers, +had already formed, by their rotten parts, little risings or +eminences, which in time, from the same cause, may become small +hills. Whereas, on the first islet, the trees being less numerous, no +such thing had as yet happened. Nevertheless, on that little spot the +manner of formation was more plainly pointed out; for, adjoining to +it was a small isle, which had doubtless been very lately formed, as +it was not as yet covered with any trees, but had a great many +shrubs, some of which were growing among pieces of coral that the sea +had thrown up. There was still a more sure proof of this method of +formation a little farther on, where two patches of sand, about fifty +yards long, and a foot or eighteen inches high, lay upon the reef, +but not as yet furnished with a single bush or tree."--D. + +<p>In a former volume we quoted a passage from Dr Forster's +observations respecting the formation of coral islands. Captain +Flinders gives a similar account in vol. ii. p. 114, of his voyage, +drawn up from his own observations on Half-way Island, on the north +coast of Terra Australis. It is too long for this place. The reader +will find it transcribed, together with Forster's, in the notes to +the translation of Cuvier's work, already referred to.--E.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>Perhaps there is another cause, which, if allowed, will accelerate +the increase of these islands as much as any other, and will also +account for the sea having receded from those elevated rocks before +mentioned. This is the spreading of the coral bank, or reef, into the +sea, which, in my opinion, is continually, though imperceptibly, +effected. The waves receding, as the reef grows in breadth and +height, leave a dry rock behind, ready for the reception of the +broken coral and sand, and every other deposit necessary for the +formation of land fit for the vegetation of plants.</p> + +<p>In this manner, there is little doubt, that in time the whole reef +will become one island; and, I think, it will extend gradually +inward, either from the increase of the islets already formed, or +from the formation of new ones upon the beds of coral within the +inclosed lake, if once they increase so as to rise above the level of +the sea.</p> + +<p>After leaving Palmerston's Island, I steered W., with a view to +make the best of my way to Annamooka. We still continued to have +variable winds, frequently between the N. and W., with squalls, some +thunder, and much rain. During these showers, which were generally +very copious, we saved a considerable quantity of water; and finding +that we could get a greater supply by the rain in one hour than we +could get by distillation in a month, I laid aside the still as a +thing attended with more trouble than profit.</p> + +<p>The heat, which had been great for about a month, became now much +more disagreeable in this close rainy weather; and, from the moisture +attending it, threatened soon to be noxious, as the ships could not +be kept dry, nor the skuttles open, for the sea. However, it is +remarkable enough, that though the only refreshment we had received +since leaving the Cape of Good Hope was that at New Zealand, there +was not as yet a single person on board sick from the constant use of +salt food, or vicissitude of climate.</p> + +<p>In the night between the 24th and 25th we passed Savage Island, +which I had discovered in 1774; and on the 28th, at ten o'clock in +the morning, we got sight of the islands which lie to the eastward of +Annamooka, bearing N. by W. about four or five leagues distant. I +steered to the S. of these islands, and then hauled up for Annamooka, +which, at four in the afternoon, bore N.W. by N., Fallafajeea S.W. by +S., and Komango N. by W., distant about five miles. The weather being +squally, with rain, I anchored, at the approach of night, in fifteen +fathoms deep water, over a bottom of coral-sand and shells, Komango +bearing N.W. about two leagues distant.</p> + +<p>SECTION IV.</p> + +<p><i>Intercourse with the Natives of Komango, and other +Islands.--Arrival at Annamooka.--Transactions there.--Feenou, a +principal Chief, from Tongataboo, comes on a Visit.--The Manner of +his Reception in the Island, and on board.--Instances of the +pilfering Disposition of the Natives.--Some Account of +Annamooka.--The Passage from it to Hapaee</i>.</p> + +<p>Soon after we had anchored, (April 28) two canoes, the one with +four, and the other with three men, paddled toward us, and came +alongside without the least hesitation. They brought some cocoa-nuts, +bread-fruit, plantains, and sugar-cane, which they bartered with us +for nails. One of the men came on board; and when these canoes had +left us, another visited us; but did not stay long, as night was +approaching. Komango, the island nearest to us, was, at least, five +miles off; which shews the hazard these people would run, in order to +possess a few of our most trifling articles. Besides this supply from +the shore, we caught, this evening, with hooks and lines, a +considerable quantity of fish.</p> + +<p>Next morning, at four o'clock, I sent Lieutenant King, with two +boats, to Komango, to procure refreshments; and, at five, made the +signal to weigh, in order to ply up to Annamooka, the wind being +unfavourable at N.W.</p> + +<p>It was no sooner day-light, than we were visited by six or seven +canoes from different islands, bringing with them, besides fruits and +roots, two pigs, several fowls, some large wood-pigeons, small rails, +and large violet-coloured coots. All these they exchanged with us for +beads, nails, hatchets, etc. They had also other articles of +commerce; such as pieces of their cloth, fish-hooks, small baskets, +musical reeds, and some clubs, spears, and bows. But I ordered, that +no curiosities should be purchased, till the ships should be supplied +with provisions, and leave given for that purpose. Knowing also, from +experience, that, if all our people might trade with the natives, +according to their own caprice, perpetual quarrels would ensue, I +ordered that particular persons should manage the traffic both on +board and on shore, prohibiting all others to interfere. Before +mid-day, Mr King's boat returned with seven hogs, some fowls, a +quantity of fruit and roots for ourselves, and some grass for the +cattle. His party was very civilly treated at Komango. The +inhabitants did not seem to be numerous; and their huts, which stood +close to each other, within a plantain wall, were but indifferent. +Not far from them was a pretty large pond of fresh water, tolerably +good; but there was not any appearance of a stream. With Mr King, +came on board the chief of the island, named Touboulangee; and +another, whose name was Taipa. They brought with them a hog, as a +present to me, and promised more the next day.</p> + +<p>As soon as the boats were aboard, I stood for Annamooka; and the +wind being scant, I intended to go between Annamooka-ette,[158] and +the breakers to the S.E. of it. But, on drawing near, we met with +very irregular soundings, varying, every cast, ten or twelve fathoms. +This obliged me to give up the design, and to go to the southward of +all; which carried us to leeward, and made it necessary to spend the +night under sail. It was very dark; and we had the wind, from every +direction, accompanied with heavy showers of rain. So that, at +day-light the next morning, we found ourselves much farther off than +we had been the evening before; and the little wind that now blew, +was right in our teeth.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 158: That is, Little Annamooka.]</blockquote> + +<p>We continued to ply, all day, to very little purpose; and, in the +evening, anchored in thirty-nine fathoms water; the bottom coral +rocks, and broken shells; the west point of Annamooka bearing E.N.E., +four miles distant. Touboulangee and Taipa kept their promise, and +brought off to me some hogs. Several others were also procured by +bartering, from different canoes that followed us; and as much fruit +as we could well manage. It was remarkable, that, during the whole +day, our visitors from the islands would hardly part with any of +their commodities to any body but me. Captain Clerke did not get +above one or two hogs.</p> + +<p>At four o'clock next morning, I ordered a boat to be hoisted out, +and sent the master to sound the S.W. side of Annamooka; where there +appeared to be a harbour, formed by the island on the N.E., and by +small islets, and shoals, to the S.W. and S.E. In the mean time, the +ships were got under sail, and wrought up to the island. When the +master returned, he reported, that he had sounded between Great and +Little Annamooka, where he found ten and twelve fathoms depth of +water, the bottom coral sand; that the place was very well sheltered +from all winds; but that there was no fresh water to be found, except +at some distance inland; and that, even there, little of it was to be +got, and that little not good. For this reason only, and it was a +very sufficient one, I determined to anchor on the north side of the +island, where, during my last voyage, I had found a place fit both +for watering and landing.</p> + +<p>It was not above a league distant; and yet we did not reach it +till five o'clock in the afternoon, being considerably retarded by +the great number of canoes that continually crowded round the ships, +bringing to us abundant supplies of the produce of their island. +Amongst these canoes there were some double ones, with a large sail, +that carried between forty and fifty men each. These sailed round us, +apparently, with the same ease as if we had been at anchor. There +were several women in the canoes, who were, perhaps, incited by +curiosity to visit us; though, at the same time, they bartered as +eagerly as the men, and used the paddle with equal labour and +dexterity; I came to an anchor in eighteen fathoms water, the bottom +coarse coral sand; the island extending from E. to S.W.; and the W. +point of the westernmost cove S.E., about three quarters of a mile +distant. Thus I resumed the very same station which I had occupied +when I visited Annamooka three years before; and, probably, almost in +the same place where Tasman, the first discoverer of this, and some +of the neighbouring islands, anchored in 1643.</p> + +<p>The following day, while preparations were making for watering, I +went ashore, in the forenoon, accompanied by Captain Clerke, and some +of the officers, to fix on a place where the observatories might be +set up, and a guard be stationed; the natives having readily given us +leave. They also accommodated us with a boat-house, to serve as a +tent, and shewed us every other mark of civility. Toobou, the chief +of the island, conducted me and Omai to his house. We found it +situated on a pleasant spot, in the centre of his plantation. A fine +grass-plot surrounded it, which, he gave us to understand, was for +the purpose of cleaning their feet, before they went within doors. I +had not, before, observed such an instance of attention to +cleanliness at any of the places I had visited in this ocean; but, +afterward, found that it was very common at the Friendly Islands. The +floor of Toobou's house was covered with mats; and no carpet, in the +most elegant English drawing-room, could be kept neater. While we +were on shore, we procured a few hogs, and some fruit, by bartering; +and, before we got on board again, the ships were crowded with the +natives. Few of them coming empty-handed, every necessary refreshment +was now in the greatest plenty.</p> + +<p>I landed again in the afternoon, with a party of marines; and, at +the same time, the horses, and such of the cattle as were in a weakly +state, were sent on shore. Every thing being settled to my +satisfaction, I returned to the ship at sunset, leaving the command +upon the island to Mr King. Taipa, who was now become our fast +friend, and who seemed to be the only active person about us, in +order to be near our party in the night, as well as the day, had a +house brought, on men's shoulders, a full quarter of a mile, and +placed close to the shed which our party occupied.</p> + +<p>Next day, our various operations on shore began. Some were +employed in making hay for the cattle; others in filling our +water-casks at the neighbouring stagnant pool; and a third party in +cutting wood. The greatest plenty of this last article being abreast +of the ships, and in a situation the most convenient for getting it +on board, it was natural to make choice of this. But the trees here, +which our people erroneously supposed to be manchineel, but were a +species of pepper, called <i>faitanoo</i> by the natives, yielded a +juice of a milky colour, of so corrosive a nature, that it raised +blisters on the skin, and injured the eyes of our workmen. They were, +therefore, obliged to desist at this place, and remove to the cove, +in which our guard was stationed, and where we embarked our water. +Other wood, more suitable to our purposes, was there furnished to us +by the natives. These were not the only employments we were engaged +in, for Messrs King and Bayly began, this day, to observe equal +altitudes of the sun, in order to get the rate of the timekeepers. In +the evening, before the natives retired from our post, Taipa +harangued them for some time. We could only guess at the subject; and +judged, that he was instructing them how to behave toward us, and +encouraging them to bring the produce of the island to market. We +experienced the good effects of his eloquence, in the plentiful +supply of provisions which, next day, we received.</p> + +<p>Nothing worth notice happened on the 4th and 5th, except that, on +the former of these days, the Discovery lost her small bower-anchor, +the cable being cut in two by the rocks. This misfortune made it +necessary to examine the cables of the Resolution, which were found +to be unhurt.</p> + +<p>On the 6th, we were visited by a great chief from Tongataboo, +whose name was Feenou, and whom Taipa was pleased to introduce to us +as King of all the Friendly Isles. I was now told, that, on my +arrival, a canoe had been dispatched to Tongataboo with the news; in +consequence of which, this chief immediately passed over to +Annamooka. The officer on shore informed me, that when he first +arrived, all the natives were ordered out to meet him, and paid their +obeisance by bowing their heads as low as his feet, the soles of +which they also touched with each hand, first with the palm, and then +with the back part. There could be little room to suspect that a +person, received with so much respect, could be any thing less than +the king.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, I went to pay this great man a visit, having +first received a present of two fish from him, brought on board by +one of his servants. As soon as I landed, he came up to me. He +appeared to be about thirty years of age, tall, but thin, and had +more of the European features, than any I had yet seen here. When the +first salutation was over, I asked if he was the king. For, +notwithstanding what I had been told, finding he was not the man whom +I remembered to have seen under that character during my former +voyage, I began to entertain doubts. Taipa officially answered for +him, and enumerated no less than one hundred and fifty-three islands, +of which, he said, Feenou was the sovereign. After a short stay, our +new visitor, and five, or six of his attendants, accompanied me on +board. I gave suitable presents to them all, and entertained them in +such a manner, as I thought would be most agreeable.</p> + +<p>In the evening, I attended them on shore in my boat, into which +the chief ordered three hogs to be put, as a return for the presents +he had received from me. I was now informed of an accident which had +just happened, the relation of which will convey some idea of the +extent of the authority exercised here over the common people. While +Feenou was on board my ship, an inferior chief, for what reason our +people on shore did not know, ordered all the natives to retire from +the post we occupied. Some of them having ventured to return, he took +up a large stick, and beat them most unmercifully. He struck one man +on the side of the face, with so much violence, that the blood gushed +out of his mouth and nostrils; and, after lying some time motionless, +he was, at last, removed from the place, in convulsions. The person +who had inflicted the blow, being told that he had killed the man, +only laughed at it; and, it was evident, that he was not in the least +sorry for what had happened. We heard, afterward, that the poor +sufferer recovered.</p> + +<p>The Discovery having found again her small bower anchor, shifted +her birth on the 7th; but not before her best bower cable had shared +the fate of the other. This day I had the company of Feenou at +dinner; and also the next day, when he was attended by Taipa, Toubou, +and some other chiefs. It was remarkable, that none but Taipa was +allowed to sit at table with him, or even to eat in his presence. I +own that I considered Feenou as a very convenient guest, on account +of this etiquette. For, before his arrival, I had, generally, a +larger company than I could well find room for, and my table +overflowed with crowds of both sexes. For it is not the custom at the +Friendly Islands, as it is at Otaheite, to deny to their females the +privilege of eating in company with the men.</p> + +<p>The first day of our arrival at Annamooka, one of the natives had +stolen, out of the ship, a large junk axe. I now applied to Feenou to +exert his authority to get it restored to me; and so implicitly was +he obeyed, that it was brought on board while we were at dinner. +These people gave us very frequent opportunities of remarking what +expert thieves they were. Even some of their chiefs did not think +this profession beneath them. On the 9th, one of them was detected +carrying out of the ship, concealed under his clothes, the bolt +belonging to the spun-yarn winch; for which I sentenced him to +receive a dozen lashes, and kept him confined till he paid a hog for +his liberty. After this, we were not troubled with thieves of rank. +Their servants, or slaves, however, were still employed in this dirty +work; and upon them a flogging seemed to make no greater impression, +than it would have done upon the main-mast. When any of them happened +to be caught in the act, their masters, far from interceding for +them, would often advise us to kill them. As this was a punishment we +did not choose to inflict, they generally escaped without any +punishment at all; for they appeared to us to be equally insensible +of the shame and of the pain of corporal chastisement. Captain +Clerke, at last, hit upon a mode of treatment, which, we thought, had +some effect. He put them under the hands of the barber, and +completely shaved their heads; thus pointing them out as objects of +ridicule to their countrymen, and enabling our people to deprive them +of future opportunities for a repetition of their rogueries, by +keeping them at a distance.</p> + +<p>Feenou was so fond of associating with us, that he dined on board +every day; though, sometimes, he did not partake of our fare. On the +10th, some of his servants brought a mess, which had been dressed for +him on shore. It consisted of fish, soup, and yams. Instead of common +water to make the soup, cocoa-nut liquor had been made use of, in +which the fish had been boiled or stewed; probably in a wooden +vessel, with hot stones; but it was carried on board in a plantain +leaf. I tasted of the mess, and found it so good, that I, afterward, +had some fish dressed in the same way. Though my cook succeeded +tolerably well, he could produce nothing equal to the dish he +imitated.</p> + +<p>Finding that we had quite exhausted the island of almost every +article of food that it afforded, I employed the 11th in moving off, +from the shore, the horses, observatories, and other things that we +had landed, as also the party of marines who had mounted guard at our +station, intending to sail, as soon as the Discovery should have +recovered her best bow anchor. Feenou, understanding that I meant to +proceed directly to Tongataboo, importuned me strongly to alter this +plan, to which he expressed as much aversion, as if he had some +particular interest to promote by diverting me from it. In preference +to it, he warmly recommended an island, or rather a group of islands, +called Hepaee, lying to the N.E. There, he assured us, we could be +supplied plentifully with every refreshment, in the easiest manner; +and, to add weight to his advice, he engaged to attend us thither in +person. He carried his point with me; and Hepaee was made choice of +for our next station. As it had never been visited by any European +ships, the examination of it became an object with me.</p> + +<p>The 12th and the 13th were spent in attempting the recovery of +Captain Clerke's anchor, which, after much trouble, was happily +accomplished; and on the 14th, in the morning, we got under sail, and +left Annamooka.</p> + +<p>This island is somewhat higher than the other small isles that +surround it; but, still, it cannot be admitted to the rank of those +of a moderate height, such as Mangeea and Wateeoo. The shore, at that +part where our ships lay, is composed of a steep, rugged, coral rock, +nine or ten feet high, except where there are two sandy beaches, +which have a reef of the same sort of rock extending cross their +entrance to the shore, and defending them from the sea. The +salt-water lake that is in the centre of the island, is about a mile +and a half broad; and round it the land rises like a bank, with a +gradual ascent. But we could not trace its having any communication +with the sea. And yet, the land that runs across to it, from the +largest sandy beach, being flat and low, and the soil sandy, it is +most likely that it may have, formerly, communicated that way. The +soil on the rising parts of the island, and especially toward the +sea, is either of a reddish clayey disposition, or a black, loose +mould; but there is, no where, any stream of fresh water.</p> + +<p>The island is very well cultivated, except in a few places; and +there are some others, which, though they appear to lie waste, are +only left to recover the strength exhausted by constant culture; for +we frequently saw the natives at work upon these spots, to plant them +again. The plantations consist chiefly of yams and plantains. Many of +them are very extensive, and often inclosed with neat fences of reed, +disposed obliquely across each other, about six feet high. Within +these we often saw other fences of less compass, surrounding the +houses of the principal people. The breadfruit, and cocoa-nut trees, +are interspersed with little order, but chiefly near the habitations +of the natives; and the other parts of the island, especially toward +the sea, and about the sides of the lake, are covered with trees and +bushes of a most luxuriant growth; the last place having a great many +mangroves, and the first a vast number of the <i>faitanoo</i> trees +already mentioned. There seem to be no rocks or stones, of any kind, +about the island, that are not coral, except in one place, to the +right of the sandy beach, where there is a rock twenty or thirty feet +high, of a calcareous stone, of a yellowish colour, and a very close +texture. But even about that place, which is the highest part of the +land, are large pieces of the same coral rock that composes the +shore.</p> + +<p>Besides walking frequently up into the country, which we were +permitted to do without interruption, we sometimes amused ourselves +in shooting wild-ducks, not unlike the widgeon, which are very +numerous upon the salt lake, and the pool where we got our water. In +these excursions, we found the inhabitants had often deserted their +houses to come down to the trading place, without entertaining any +suspicion, that strangers, rambling about, would take away, or +destroy, any thing that belonged to them. But though, from this +circumstance, it might be supposed that the greater part of the +natives were sometimes collected at the beach, it was impossible to +form any accurate computation of their number; as the continual +resort of visitors from other islands, mixing with them, might easily +mislead one. However, as there was never, to appearance, above a +thousand persons collected at one time, it would, perhaps, be +sufficient to allow double that number for the whole island.</p> + +<p>To the N. and N.E. of Annamooka, and in the direct track to +Hepaee, whither we were now bound, the sea is sprinkled with a great +number of small isles. Amidst the shoals and rocks adjoining to this +group, I could not be assured that there was a free or safe passage +for such large ships as ours, though the natives sailed through the +intervals in their canoes. For this substantial reason, when we +weighed anchor from Annamooka, I thought it necessary to go to the +westward of the above islands, and steered N.N.W., toward Kao[159] +and Toofoa, the two most westerly islands in sight, and remarkable +for their great height. Feenou, and his attendants, remained on board +the Resolution till near noon, when he went into the large sailing +canoe, which had brought him from Tongataboo, and stood in amongst +the cluster of islands above mentioned, of which we were now almost +abreast; and a tide or current from the westward had set us, since +our sailing in the morning, much over toward them.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 159: As a proof of the great difficulty of +knowing accurately the exact names of the South Sea Islands, as +procured from the natives, I observe that what Captain Cook calls +<i>Aghao</i>, Mr Anderson calls <i>Kao</i>; and Tasman's drawing, as +I find it in Mr Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages, gives the name of +<i>Kayhay</i> to the same island. Tasman's and Captain Cook's +<i>Amattafoa</i>, is, with Mr Anderson, <i>Tofoa</i>. Captain Cook's +<i>Komango</i>, is Tasman's <i>Amango</i>. There is scarcely an +instance, in which such variations are not observable. Mr Anderson's +great attention to matters of this sort being, as we learn from +Captain King, well known to every body on board, and admitted always +by Captain Cook himself, his mode of spelling has been +adopted.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>They lie scattered, at unequal distances, and are, in general, +nearly as high as Annamooka; but only from two or three miles, to +half a mile in length, and some of them scarcely so much. They have +either steep rocky shores like Annamooka, or reddish cliffs; but some +have sandy beaches extending almost their whole length. Most of them +are entirely clothed with trees, amongst which are many cocoa palms, +and each forms a prospect like a beautiful garden placed in the sea. +To heighten this, the serene weather we now had contributed very +much; and the whole might supply the imagination with an idea of some +fairy land realized. It should seem, that some of them, at least, may +have been formed, as we supposed Palmerston's Island to have been; +for there is one, which, as yet, is entirely sand, and another, on +which there is only one bush, or tree.</p> + +<p>At four o'clock in the afternoon, being the length of Kotoo, the +westernmost of the above cluster of small islands, we steered to the +north, leaving Toofoa and Kao on our larboard, keeping along the west +side of a reef of rocks, which lie to the westward of Kotoo, till we +came to their northern extremity, round which we hauled in for the +island. It was our intention to have anchored for the night; but it +came upon us before we could find a place in less than fifty-five +fathoms water; and rather than come-to in this depth, I chose to +spend the night under sail.</p> + +<p>We had, in the afternoon, been within two leagues of Toofoa, the +smoke of which we saw several times in the day. The Friendly +Islanders have some superstitious notions about the volcano upon it, +which they call <i>Kollofeea</i>, and say it is an <i>Otooa</i>, or +divinity. According to their account, it sometimes throws up very +large stones; and they compare the <i>crater</i> to the size of a +small islet, which has never ceased smoking in their memory; nor have +they any tradition that it ever did. We sometimes saw the smoke +rising from the centre of the island, while we were at Annamooka, +though at the distance of at least ten leagues. Toofoa, we were told, +is but thinly inhabited, but the water upon it is good.</p> + +<p>At day-break the next morning, being then not far from Kao, which +is a vast rock of a conic figure, we steered to the east, for the +passage between the islands Footooha and Hafaiva, with a gentle +breeze at S.E. About ten o'clock, Feenou came on board, and remained +with us all day. He brought with him two hogs, and a quantity of +fruit; and, in the course of the day, several canoes, from the +different islands round us, came to barter quantities of the latter +article, which was very acceptable, as our stock was nearly expended. +At noon, our latitude was 19° 49' 45" S., and we had made seven +miles of longitude from Annamooka; Toofoa bore N., 88° W.; Kao +N., 71° W.; Footooha N., 89° W.; and Hafaiva S. 12° +W.</p> + +<p>After passing Footooha, we met with a reef of rocks; and, as there +was but little wind, it cost us some trouble to keep clear of them. +This reef lies between Footooha and Neeneeva, which is a small low +isle, in the direction of E.N.E. from Footooha, at the distance of +seven or eight miles. Footooha is a small island, of middling height, +and bounded all round by a steep rock. It lies S. 67° E., distant +six leagues from Kao, and three leagues from Kotoo, in the direction +of N. 33° E. Being past the reef of rocks just mentioned, we +hauled up for Neeneeva, in hopes of finding anchorage; but were again +disappointed, and obliged to spend the night, making short boards. +For, although we had land in every direction, the sea was +unfathomable.</p> + +<p>In the course of this night, we could plainly see flames issuing +from the volcano upon Toofoa, though to no great height.</p> + +<p>At day-break in the morning of the 16th, with a gentle breeze at +S.E., we steered N.E. for Hepaee, which was now in sight; and we +could judge it to be low land, from the trees only appearing above +the water. About nine o'clock we could see it plainly forming three +islands, nearly of an equal size; and soon after, a fourth to the +southward of these, as large as the others. Each seemed to be about +six or seven miles long, and of a similar height and appearance. The +northernmost of them is called Haanno, the next Foa, the third +Lefooga, and the southernmost Hoolaiva; but all four are included, by +the natives, under the general name Hepaee.</p> + +<p>The wind scanting upon us, we could not fetch the land, so that we +were forced to ply to windward. In doing this, we once passed over +some coral rocks, on which we had only six fathoms water; but the +moment we were over them, found no ground with eighty-fathoms of +line. At this time, the isles of Hepaee bore, from N., 50° E., to +S., 9 W. We got up with the northernmost of these isles by sunset; +and there found ourselves in the very same distress, for want of +anchorage, that we had experienced the two preceding evenings; so +that we had another night to spend under sail, with land and breakers +in every direction. Toward the evening, Feenou, who had been on board +all day, went forward to Hepaee, and took Omai in the canoe with him. +He did not forget our disagreeable situation; and kept up a good +fire, all night, by way of a land-mark.</p> + +<p>As soon as the day-light returned, being then close in with Foa, +we saw it was joined to Haanno, by a reef running even with the +surface of the sea, from the one island to the other. I now +dispatched a boat to look for anchorage. A proper place was soon +found; and we came-to, abreast of a reef, being that which joins +Lefooga to Foa (in the same manner that Foa is joined to Haanno), +having twenty-four fathoms depth of water; the bottom coral sand. In +this station, the northern point of Hepaee, or the north end of +Haanno, bore N., 16° E. The southern point of Hepaee, or the +south end of Hoolaiva, S., 29° W.; and the north end of Lefooga, +S., 65° E. Two ledges of rocks lay without us; the one bearing +S., 50° W.; and the other W. by N. 1/2 N., distant two or three +miles. We lay before a creek in the reef, which made it convenient +landing at all times; and we were not above three quarters of a mile +from the shore.</p> + +<p>SECTION V.</p> + +<p><i>Arrival of the Ships at Hepaee, and friendly Reception +there.--Presents and Solemnities on the Occasion.--Single Combats +with Clubs.--Wrestling and Boxing Matches.--Female +Combatants.--Marines exercised.--A Dance performed by Men.--Fireworks +exhibited.--The Night-entertainments of Singing and Dancing +particularly described</i>.</p> + +<p>By the time we had anchored, (May 17) the ships were filled with +the natives, and surrounded by a multitude of canoes, filled also +with them. They brought from the shore, hogs, fowls, fruit, and +roots, which they exchanged for hatchets, knives, nails, beads, and +cloth. Feenou and Omai having come on board, after it was light, in +order to introduce me to the people of the island, I soon accompanied +them on shore, for that purpose, landing at the north part of +Lefooga, a little to the right of the ship's station.</p> + +<p>The chief conducted me to a house, or rather a hut, situated close +to the sea-beach, which I had seen brought thither, but a few minutes +before, for our reception. In this, Feenou, Omai, and myself, were +seated. The other chiefs, and the multitude, composed a circle, on +the outside, fronting us; and they also sat down. I was then asked, +How long I intended to stay? On my saying, Five days, Taipa was +ordered to come and sit by me, and proclaim this to the people. He +then harangued them, in a speech mostly dictated by Feenou. The +purport of it, as I learnt from Omai, was, that they were all, both +old and young, to look upon me as a friend, who intended to remain +with them a few days; that, during my stay, they must not steal any +thing, nor molest me any other way; and that it was expected, they +should bring hogs, fowls, fruit, etc. to the ships, where they would +receive, in exchange for them, such and such things, which he +enumerated. Soon after Taipa had finished this address to the +assembly, Feenou left us. Taipa then took occasion to signify to me, +that it was necessary I should make a present to the chief of the +island, whose name was Earoupa. I was not unprepared for this, and +gave him such articles as far exceeded his expectation. My liberality +to him brought upon me demands, of the same kind, from two chiefs of +other isles who were present; and from Taipa himself. When Feenou +returned, which was immediately after I had made the last of these +presents, he pretended to be angry with Taipa for suffering me to +give away so much; but I looked upon this as a mere finesse; being +confident that he acted in concert with the others. He now took his +seat again, and ordered Earoupa to sit by him, and to harangue the +people as Taipa had done, and to the same purpose; dictating, as +before, the heads of the speech.</p> + +<p>These ceremonies being performed, the chief, at my request, +conducted me to three stagnant pools of fresh water, as he was +pleased to call it: And, indeed, in one of these the water was +tolerable, and the situation not inconvenient for filling our casks. +After viewing the watering-place, we returned to our former station, +where I found a baked hog, and some yams, smoking hot, ready to be +carried on board for my dinner. I invited Feenou, and his friends, to +partake of it; and we embarked for the ship; but none but himself sat +down with us at the table. After dinner I conducted them on shore; +and, before I returned on board, the chief gave me a fine large +turtle, and a quantity of yams. Our supply of provisions was copious; +for, in the course of the day, we got, by barter, alongside the ship, +about twenty small hogs, beside fruit and roots. I was told, that on +my first landing in the morning, a man came off to the ships, and +ordered every one of the natives to go on shore. Probably this was +done with a view to have the whole body of inhabitants present at the +ceremony of my reception; for when that was over, multitudes of them +returned again to the ships.</p> + +<p>Next morning early, Feenou, and Omai, who scarcely ever quitted +the chief, and now slept on shore, came on board. The object of the +visit was to require my presence upon the island. After some time, I +accompanied them; and, upon landing, was conducted to the same place +where I had been seated the day before; and where I saw a large +concourse of people already assembled. I guessed that something more +than ordinary was in agitation; but could not tell what, nor could +Omai inform me.</p> + +<p>I had not been long seated, before near a hundred of the natives +appeared in sight, and advanced, laden with yams, bread-fruit, +plantains, cocoa-nuts, and sugar-canes. They deposited their burdens, +in two heaps, or piles, upon our left, being the side they came from. +Soon after, arrived a number of others from the right, bearing the +same kind of articles, which were collected into two piles upon that +side. To these were tied two pigs, and six fowls; and to those upon +the left, six pigs, and two turtles. Earoupa seated himself before +the several articles upon the left; and another chief before those +upon the right; they being, as I judged, the two chiefs who had +collected them, by order of Feenou, who seemed to be as implicitly +obeyed here, as he had been at Annamooka; and, in consequence of his +commanding superiority over the chiefs of Hepaee, had laid this tax +upon them for the present occasion.</p> + +<p>As soon as this munificent collection of provisions was laid down +in order, and disposed to the best advantage, the bearers of it +joined the multitude, who formed a large circle round the whole. +Presently after, a number of men entered this circle, or area, before +us, armed with clubs, made of the green branches of the cocoa-nut +tree. These paraded about for a few minutes, and then retired; the +one half to one side, and the other half to the other side; seating +themselves before the spectators. Soon after, they successively +entered the lists, and entertained us with single combats. One +champion, rising up and stepping forward from one side, challenged +those of the other side, by expressive gestures, more than by words, +to send one of their body to oppose him. If the challenge was +accepted, which was generally the case, the two combatants put +themselves in proper attitudes, and then began the engagement, which +continued till one or other owned himself conquered, or till their +weapons were broken. As soon as each combat was over, the victor +squatted himself down facing the chief, then rose up, and retired. At +the same time, some old men, who seemed to sit as judges, gave their +plaudit in a few words; and the multitude, especially those on the +side to which the victor belonged, celebrated the glory he had +acquired in two or three huzzas.</p> + +<p>This entertainment was, now and then, suspended for a few minutes. +During these intervals there were both wrestling and boxing matches. +The first were performed in the same manner as at Otaheite; and the +second differed very little from the method practised in England. But +what struck us with most surprise, was, to see a couple of lusty +wenches step forth, and begin boxing; without the least ceremony, and +with as much art as the men. This contest, however, did not last +above half a minute, before one of them gave it up. The conquering +heroine received the same applause from the spectators which they +bestowed upon the successful combatants of the other sex. We +expressed some dislike at this part of the entertainment; which, +however, did not prevent two other females from entering the lists. +They seemed to be girls of spirit, and would certainly have given +each other a good drubbing, if two old women had not interposed to +part them. All these combats were exhibited in the midst of, at +least, three thousand people, and were conducted with the greatest +good humour on all sides; though some of the champions, women as well +as men, received blows, which, doubtless, they must have felt for +some time after.</p> + +<p>As soon as these diversions were ended, the chief told me, that +the heaps of provisions on our right hand were a present to Omai; and +that those on our left hand, being about two-thirds of the whole +quantity, were given to me. He added, that I might take them on board +whenever it was convenient; but that there would be no occasion to +set any of our people as guards over them, as I might be assured, +that not a single cocoa-nut would be taken away by the natives. So it +proved; for I left every thing behind, and returned to the ship to +dinner, carrying the chief with me; and when the provisions were +removed on board, in the afternoon, not a single article was missing. +There was as much as loaded four boats; and I could not but be struck +with the munificence of Feenou; for this present far exceeded any I +had ever received from any of the sovereigns of the various islands I +had visited in the Pacific Ocean. I lost no time in convincing my +friend, that I was not insensible of his liberality; for, before he +quitted my ship, I bestowed upon him such of our commodities, as, I +guessed, were most valuable in his estimation. And the return I made +was so much to his satisfaction, that, as soon as he got on shore, he +left me still indebted to him, by sending me a fresh present, +consisting of two large hogs, a considerable quantity of cloth, and +some yams.</p> + +<p>Feenou had expressed a desire to see the marines go through their +military exercise. As I was desirous to gratify his curiosity, I +ordered them all ashore, from both ships, in the morning of the 20th. +After they had performed various evolutions, and fired several +vollies, with which the numerous body of spectators seemed well +pleased, the chief entertained us, in his turn, with an exhibition, +which, as was acknowledged by us all, was performed with a dexterity +and exactness, far surpassing the specimen we had given of our +military manoeuvres. It was a kind of a dance, so entirely different +from any thing I had ever seen, that, I fear, I can give no +description that will convey any tolerable idea of it to my readers. +It was performed by men; and one hundred and five persons bore their +parts in it. Each of them had in his hand an instrument neatly made, +shaped somewhat like a paddle, of two feet and a half in length, with +a small handle, and a thin blade; so that they were very light. With +these instruments they made many and various flourishes, each of +which was accompanied with a different attitude of the body, or a +different movement. At first, the performers ranged themselves in +three lines; and, by various evolutions, each man changed his station +in such a manner, that those who had been in the rear came into the +front. Nor did they remain long in the same position; but these +changes were made by pretty quick transitions. At one time they +extended themselves in one line; they, then, formed into a +semicircle; and, lastly, into two square columns. While this last +movement was executing, one of them advanced, and performed an antic +dance before me; with which the whole ended.</p> + +<p>The musical instruments consisted of two drums, or rather two +hollow logs of wood, from which some varied notes were produced, by +beating on them with two sticks. It did not, however, appear to me, +that the dancers were much assisted or directed by these sounds, but +by a chorus of vocal music, in which all the performers joined at the +same time. Their song was not destitute of pleasing melody; and all +their corresponding motions were executed with so much skill, that +the numerous body of dancers seemed to act, as if they were one great +machine. It was the opinion of every one of us, that such a +performance would have met with universal applause on a European +theatre; and it so far exceeded any attempt we had made to entertain +them, that they seemed to pique themselves upon the superiority they +had over us. As to our musical instruments, they held none of them in +the least esteem, except the drum; and even that they did not think +equal to their own. Our French horns, in particular, seemed to be +held in great contempt; for neither here, nor at any other of the +islands, would they pay the smallest attention to them.</p> + +<p>In order to give them a more favourable opinion of English +amusements, and to leave their minds fully impressed with the deepest +sense of our superior attainments, I directed some fireworks to be +got ready; and, after it was dark, played them off in the presence of +Feenou, the other chiefs, and a vast concourse of their people. Some +of the preparations we found damaged; but others of them were in +excellent order, and succeeded so perfectly, as to answer the end I +had in view. Our water and sky-rockets, in particular, pleased and +astonished them beyond all conception; and the scale was now turned +in our favour.</p> + +<p>This, however, seemed only to furnish them with an additional +motive to proceed to fresh exertions of their very singular +dexterity; and our fireworks were no sooner ended, than a succession +of dances, which Feenou had got ready for our entertainment, began. +As[160] a prelude to them, a band of music, or chorus of eighteen +men, seated themselves before us, in the centre of the circle, +composed by the numerous spectators, the area of which was to be the +scene of the exhibitions. Four or five of this band had pieces of +large bamboo, from three to five or six feet long, each managed by +one man, who held it nearly in a vertical position, the upper end +open, but the other end closed by one of the joints. With this close +end, the performers kept constantly striking the ground, though +slowly, thus producing different notes, according to the different +lengths of the instruments, but all of them of the hollow or base +sort; to counteract which, a person kept striking quickly, and with +two sticks, a piece of the same substance, split, and laid along the +ground, and, by that means, furnishing a tone as acute as those +produced by the others were grave. The rest of the band, as well as +those who performed upon the bamboos, sung a slow and soft air, which +so tempered the harsher notes of the above instruments, that no +bye-stander, however accustomed to hear the most perfect and varied +modulation of sweet sounds, could avoid confessing the vast power, +and pleasing effect, of this simple harmony.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 160: Mr Andersen's account of the night dances +being much fuller than Captain Cook's, the reader will not be +displeased that it has been adopted.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>The concert having continued about a quarter of an hour, twenty +women entered the circle. Most of them had, upon their heads, +garlands of the crimson flowers of the China rose, or others; and +many of them had ornamented their persons with leaves of trees, cut +with a deal of nicety about the edges. They made a circle round the +chorus, turning their faces toward it, and began by singing a soft +air, to which responses were made by the chorus in the same tone; and +these were repeated alternately. All this while, the women +accompanied their song with several very graceful motions of their +hands toward their faces, and in other directions at the same time, +making constantly a step forward, and then back again, with one foot, +while the other was fixed. They then turned their faces to the +assembly, sung some time, and retreated slowly in a body, to that +part of the circle which was opposite the hut where the principal +spectators sat. After this, one of them advanced from each side, +meeting and passing each other in the front, and continuing their +progress round, till they came to the rest. On which, two advanced +from each side, two of whom also passed each other, and returned as +the former; but the other two remained, and to these came one, from +each side, by intervals, till the whole number had again formed a +circle-about the chorus.</p> + +<p>Their manner of dancing was now changed to a quicker measure, in +which they made a kind of half turn by leaping, and clapped their +hands, and snapped their fingers, repeating some words in conjunction +with the chorus. Toward the end, as the quickness of the music +increased, their gestures and attitudes were varied with wonderful +vigour and dexterity; and some of their motions, perhaps, would, with +us, be reckoned rather indecent. Though this part of the performance, +most probably, was not meant to convey any wanton ideas, but merely +to display the astonishing variety of their movements.</p> + +<p>To this grand female ballet, succeeded one performed by fifteen +men. Some of them were old; but their age seemed to have abated +little of their agility or ardour for the dance. They were disposed +in a sort of circle, divided at the front, with their faces not +turned out toward the assembly, nor inward to the chorus; but one +half of their circle faced forward as they had advanced, and the +other half in a contrary direction. They, sometimes, sung slowly, in +concert with the chorus; and, while thus employed, they also made +several very fine motions with their hands, but different from those +made by the women, at the same time inclining the body to either side +alternately by raising one leg, which was stretched outward, and +resting on the other; the arm of the same side being also stretched +fully upward. At other times they recited sentences in a musical +tone, which were answered by the chorus; and, at intervals, increased +the measure of the dance, by clapping the hands, and quickening the +motions of the feet, which, however, were never varied. At the end, +the rapidity of the music, and of the dancing, increased so much, +that it was scarcely possible to distinguish the different movements; +though one might suppose the actors were now almost tired, as their +performance had lasted near half an hour.</p> + +<p>After a considerable interval, another act, as we may call it, +began. Twelve men now advanced, who placed themselves in double rows +fronting each other, but on opposite sides of the circle; and, on one +side, a man was stationed, who, as if he had been a prompter, +repeated several sentences, to which the twelve new performers, and +the chorus, replied. They then sung slowly; and afterward danced and +sung more quickly, for about a quarter of an hour, after the manner +of the dancers whom they had succeeded.</p> + +<p>Soon after they had finished, nine women exhibited themselves, and +sat down fronting the hut where the chief was. A man then rose, and +struck the first of these women on the back, with both fists joined. +He proceeded, in the same manner, to the second and third; but when +he came to the fourth, whether from accident or design I cannot tell, +instead of the back, he struck her on the breast. Upon this a person +rose instantly from the crowd, who brought him to the ground with a +blow on the head; and he was carried off without the least noise or +disorder. But this did not save the other five women from so odd a +discipline, or perhaps necessary ceremony; for a person succeeded +him, who treated them in the same manner. Their disgrace did not end +here; for when they danced, they had the mortification to find their +performance twice disapproved of, and were obliged to repeat it. This +dance did not differ much from that of the first women, except in +this one circumstance, that the present set sometimes raised the body +upon one leg, by a sort of double motion, and then upon the other +alternately, in which attitude they kept snapping their fingers; and, +at the end, they repeated, with great agility, the brisk movements, +in which the former group of female dancers had shewn themselves so +expert.</p> + +<p>In a little tine, a person entered unexpectedly, and said +something in a ludicrous way, about the fireworks that had been +exhibited, which extorted a burst of laughter from the multitude. +After this, we had a dance composed of the men, who attended, or had +followed, Feenou. They formed a double circle (i.e. one within +another) of twenty-four each, round the chorus, and began a gentle +soothing song, with corresponding motions of the hands and head. This +lasted a considerable time, and then changed to a much quicker +measure, during which they repeated sentences, either in conjunction +with the chorus, or in answer to some spoken by that band. They then +retreated to the back part of the circle, as the women had done, and +again advanced, on each side, in a triple row, till they formed a +semicircle, which was done very slowly, by inclining the body on one +leg, and advancing the other a little way, as they put it down. They +accompanied this with such a soft air as they had sung at the +beginning; but soon changed it to repeat sentences in a harsher tone, +at the same time quickening the dance very much, till they finished +with a general shout and clap of the hands. The same was repeated +several times; but, at last, they formed a double circle, as at the +beginning, danced, and repeated very quickly, and finally closed with +several very dexterous transpositions of the two circles.</p> + +<p>The entertainments of this memorable night concluded with a dance, +in which the principal people present exhibited. It resembled the +immediately preceding one, in some respects, having the same number +of performers, who began nearly in the same way; but their ending, at +each interval, was different; for they increased their motions to a +prodigious quickness, shaking their heads from shoulder to shoulder, +with such force, that a spectator, unaccustomed to the sight, would +suppose, that they ran a risk of dislocating their necks. This was +attended with a smart clapping of the hands, and a kind of savage +holla! or shriek, not unlike what is sometimes practised in the comic +dances on our European theatres. They formed the triple semicircle, +as the preceding dancers had done; and a person, who advanced at the +head on one side of the semicircle, began by repeating something in a +truly musical recitative, which was delivered with an air so +graceful, as might put to the blush our most applauded performers. He +was answered in the same manner, by the person at the head of the +opposite party. This being repeated several times, the whole body, on +one side, joined in the responses to the whole corresponding body on +the opposite side, as the semicircle advanced to the front; and they +finished, by singing and dancing as they had begun.</p> + +<p>These two last dances were performed with so much spirit, and so +great exactness, that they met with universal approbation. The native +spectators, who, no doubt, were perfect judges whether the several +performances were properly executed, could not withhold their +applauses at some particular parts; and even a stranger, who never +saw the diversion before, felt similar satisfaction, at the same +instant. For though, through the whole, the most strict concert was +observed, some of the gestures were so expressive, that it might be +said, they spoke the language that accompanied them; if we allow that +there is any connection between motion and sound. At the same time, +it should be observed, that though the music of the chorus, and that +of the dancers, corresponded, constant practice in these favourite +amusements of our friends, seems to have a great share in effecting +the exact time they keep in their performances. For we observed, that +if any of them happened accidentally to be interrupted, they never +found the smallest difficulty in recovering the proper place of the +dance or song. And their perfect discipline was in no instance more +remarkable, than in the sudden transitions they so dexterously made +from the ruder exertions, and harsh sounds, to the softest airs, and +gentlest movements.[161]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 161: In a former note, it was observed, that +the songs and dances of the Caroline Islanders, in the North Pacific, +bear a great resemblance to those of the inhabitants of Wateeoo. The +remark may be now extended to those of the Friendly Islanders, +described at large in this chapter. That the reader may judge for +himself, I have selected the following particulars from Father +Cantova's account. "Pendant la nuit, au clair de la lune, ils +s'assemblent, de temps en temps, pour chanter & danser devant la +maison de leur <i>Tumole</i>. Leurs danses se font au son de la voix, +car ils n'ont point d'instrument de musique. La beauté de la +danse, consiste dans l'exacte uniformité des mouvemens du +corps. Les hommes, separés des femmes, se postent +vis-à-vis les uns des autres; après quoi, ils remuent +la tête, les bras, les mains, les pieds, en cadence. Leur +tête est couverte de plumes, on de fleurs;--et l'on voit, +attachées à leurs oreilles, des feuilles de palmier +tissues avec assez d'art--Les femmes, de leur coté,--se +regardant les unes les autres, commencent un chant pathétique +& langoureux, accompagnant le son de leur voix du mouvement +cadencé de la tête & des bras."--<i>Lettres +Edifiantes & Curiesues</i>, tom. xv. p. 314, +315.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>The place where the dances were performed was an open space +amongst the trees, just by the sea, with lights, at small intervals, +placed round the inside of the circle. The concourse of people was +pretty large, though not equal to the number assembled in the +forenoon, when the marines exercised. At that time, some of our +gentlemen guessed there might be present about five thousand persons; +others thought there were more; but they who reckoned that there were +fewer, probably, came nearer the truth.</p> + +<p>SECTION VI.</p> + +<p><i>Description of Lefooga.--Its cultivated State.--Its +Extent.--Transactions there.--A female Oculist.--Singular Expedients +for shaving off the Hair.--The Ships change their Station.--A +remarkable Mount and Stone.--Inscription of Hoolaiva.--Account of +Poulaho, King of the friendly Islands.--Respectful Manner in which he +is treated by his People.--Departure from the Hapaee Islands.--Some +Account of Kotoo.--Return of the Ships to Annamooka.--Poulaho and +Feenou meet.--Arrival at Tongataboo.</i></p> + +<p>Curiosity on both sides being now sufficiently gratified by the +exhibition of the various entertainments I have described, I began to +have time to look about me. Accordingly, next day (May 21) I took a +walk into the island of Lefooga, of which I was desirous to obtain +some knowledge. I found it to be, in several respects, superior to +Annamooka. The plantations were both more numerous and more +extensive. In many places, indeed, toward the sea, especially on the +east side, the country is still waste, owing perhaps to the sandy +soil, as it is much lower than Annamooka, and its surrounding isles. +But toward the middle of the island the soil is better; and the marks +of considerable population, and of improved cultivation, were very +conspicuous. For we met here with very large plantations, inclosed in +such a manner that the fences, running parallel to each other, form +fine spacious public roads, that would appear ornamental in countries +where rural conveniences have been carried to the greatest +perfection. We observed large spots covered with the paper +mulberry-trees; and the plantations, in general, were well stocked +with such roots and fruits as are the natural produce of the island. +To these I made some addition, by sowing the seeds of Indian corn, +melons, pumpkins, and the like. At one place was a house, four or +five times as large as those of the common sort, with a large area of +grass before it; and I take it for granted, the people resort thither +on certain public occasions. Near the landing-place we saw a mount, +two or three feet high, covered with gravel; and on it stood four or +five small huts, in which the natives told us the bodies of some of +their principal people had been interred.</p> + +<p>The island is not above seven miles long, and in some places not +above two or three broad. The east side of it, which is exposed to +the trade-wind, has a reef running to a considerable breadth from it, +on which the sea breaks with great violence. It is a continuation of +this reef that joins Lefooga to Foa, which is not above half a mile +distant; and at low water the natives can walk upon this reef, which +is then partly dry from the one island to the other. The shore itself +is either a coral rock, six or seven feet high, or a sandy beach, but +higher than the west side, which in general is not more than three or +four feet from the level of the sea, with a sandy beach its whole +length.</p> + +<p>When I returned from my excursion into the country, and went on +board to dinner, I found a large sailing canoe fast to the ship's +stern. In this canoe was Latooliboula, whom I had seen at Tongataboo +during my last voyage, and who was then supposed by us to be the king +of that island. He sat in the canoe with all that gravity, by which, +as I have mentioned in my journal,[162] he was so remarkably +distinguished at that time; nor could I, by any entreaties, prevail +upon him now to come into the ship. Many of the islanders were +present, and they all called him <i>Areekee</i>, which signifies +king. I had never heard any one of them give this title to Feenou, +however extensive his authority over them, both here and at +Annamooka, had appeared to be, which had all along inclined me to +suspect that he was not the king, though his friend Taipa had taken +pains to make me believe he was. Latooliboula remained under the +stern till the evening, when he retired in his canoe to one of the +islands. Feenou was on board my ship at the same time; but neither of +these great men took the least notice of the other.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 162: The name of this extraordinary personage +is there said to be <i>Kohagee too Fallangou</i>, which cannot, by +the most skilful etymologist, be tortured into the least most distant +resemblance of <i>Latooliboula</i>. It is remarkable that Captain +Cook should not take any notice of his having called the same person +by two names so very different. Perhaps we may account for this, by +supposing one to be the name of the person, and the other the +description of his title or rank. This supposition seems well +founded, when we consider that <i>Latoo</i>, in the language of these +people, is sometimes used to signify a great chief; and Dr Forster, +in his Observations, p. 378, 379, and elsewhere, speaks of the +sovereign of Tongataboo under the title of their <i>Latoo</i>. This +very person is called by Dr Forster, p. 370, <i>Latoo-Nipooroo</i>, +which furnishes a very striking instance of the variations of our +people in writing down the same word as pronounced by the natives. +However, we can easily trace the affinity between <i>Nipooroo</i> and +<i>Liboula</i>, as the changes of the consonants are such as are +perpetually made upon hearing a word pronounced to which our ears +have not been accustomed. Mr Anderson here agrees with Captain Cook +in writing Latooliboula.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>Nothing material happened the next day, except that some of the +natives stole a tarpaulin, and other things, from off the deck. They +were soon missed, and the thieves pursued, but a little too late. I +applied, therefore, to Feenou, who, if he was not king, was at least +vested with the highest authority here to exert it, in order to have +my things restored. He referred me to Earoupa, who put me off from +time to time, and at last nothing was done.</p> + +<p>In the morning of the 23d, as we were going to unmoor, in order to +leave the island, Feenou, and his prime minister Taipa, came +alongside in a sailing canoe, and informed me that they were setting +out for Vavaoo, an island which they said lies about two days sail to +the northward of Hepaee. The object of their voyage, they would have +me believe, was to get for me an additional supply of hogs, and some +red-feathered caps for Omai to carry to Otaheite, where they are in +high esteem. Feenou assured me that he should be back in four or five +days, and desired me not to sail till his return, when he promised he +would accompany me to Tongataboo. I thought this a good opportunity +to get some knowledge of Vavaoo, and proposed to him to go thither +with the ships. But he seemed not to approve of the plan; and, by way +of diverting me from it, told me that there was neither harbour nor +anchorage about it. I therefore consented to wait, in my present +station, for his return, and he immediately set out.</p> + +<p>The next day, our attention was for some time taken up with a +report, industriously spread about by some of the natives, that a +ship like ours had arrived at Annamooka since we left it, and was now +at anchor there. The propagators of the report were pleased to add, +that Toobou, the chief of that island, was hastening thither to +receive these new comers; and as we knew that he had actually left +us, we were the more ready to believe there might be some foundation +for the story of this unexpected arrival. However, to gain some +farther information, I went on shore with Omai, in quest of the man +who, it was said, had brought the first account of this event from +Annamooka. We found him at the house of Earoupa, where Omai put such +questions to him as I thought necessary; and the answers he gave were +so clear and satisfactory, that I had not a doubt remaining. But, +just about this time, a chief of some note, whom we well knew, +arrived from Annamooka, and declared that no ship was at that island, +nor had been, since our leaving it. The propagator of the report, +finding himself detected in a falsehood, instantly withdrew, and we +saw no more of him. What end the invention of this tale could answer +was not easy to conjecture, unless we suppose it to have been +artfully contrived, to get us removed from the one island to the +other.</p> + +<p>In my walk on the 25th, I happened to step into a house, where a +woman was dressing the eyes of a young child, who seemed blind, the +eyes being much inflamed, and a thin film spread over them. The +instruments she used were two slender wooden probes, with which she +had brushed the eyes so as to make them bleed. It seems worth +mentioning, that the natives of these islands should attempt an +operation of this sort, though I entered the house too late to +describe exactly how this female oculist employed the wretched tools +she had to work with.</p> + +<p>I was fortunate enough to see a different operation going on in +the same house, of which I can give a tolerable account. I found +there another woman shaving a child's head, with a shark's tooth, +stuck into the end of a piece of stick. I observed that she first +wetted the hair with a rag dipped in water, applying her instrument +to that part which she had previously soaked. The operation seemed to +give no pain to the child, although the hair was taken off as close +as if one of our razors had been employed. Encouraged by what I now +saw, I soon after tried one of these singular instruments upon +myself, and found it to be an excellent <i>succedaneum</i>. However, +the men of these islands have recourse to another contrivance when +they shave their beards. The operation is performed with two shells, +one of which they place under a small part of the beard, and with the +other, applied above, they scrape that part off. In this manner they +are able to shave very close. The process is, indeed, rather tedious, +but not painful; and there are men amongst them who seemed to profess +this trade. It was as common, while we were here, to see our sailors +go ashore to have their beards scraped off, after the fashion of +Hepaee, as it was to see their chiefs come on board to be shaved by +our barbers.</p> + +<p>Finding that little or nothing of the produce of the island was +now brought to the ships, I resolved to change our station, and to +wait Feenou's return from Vavaoo, in some other convenient +anchoring-place, where refreshments might still be met with. +Accordingly, in the forenoon of the 26th, we got under sail, and +stood to the southward along the reef of the island, having fourteen +and thirteen, fathoms water, with a sandy bottom. However, we met +with several detached shoals. Some of them were discovered by +breakers, some by the water upon them appearing discoloured, and +others by the lead. At half past two in the afternoon having already +passed several of these shoals, and seeing more of them before us, I +hauled into a bay that lies between the S. end of Lefooga and the N. +end of Hoolaiva, and there anchored in seventeen fathoms water, the +bottom a coral sand; the point of Lefooga bearing S.E. by E. a mile +and a half distant. The Discovery did not get to an anchor till +sunset. She had touched upon one of the shoals, but backed off again +without receiving any damage.</p> + +<p>As soon as we had anchored, I sent Mr Bligh to sound the bay where +we were now stationed; and myself, accompanied by Mr Gore, landed on +the southern part of Lefooga, to examine the country, and to look for +fresh water. Not that we now wanted a supply of this article, having +filled all the casks at our late station; but I had been told that +this part of the island could afford us some preferable to any we had +got at the former watering-place. This will not be the only time I +shall have occasion to remark that these people do not know what good +water is. We were conducted to two wells, but the water in both of +them proved to be execrable, and the natives, our guides, assured us +that they had none better.</p> + +<p>Near the S. end of the island, and on the W. side, we met with an +artificial mount. From the size of some trees that were growing upon +it, and from other appearances, I guessed that it had been raised in +remote times. I judged it to be about forty feet high, and the +diameter of its summit measured fifty feet. At the bottom of this +mount stood a stone, which must have been hewn out of coral rock. It +was four feet broad, two and a half thick, and fourteen high; and we +were told by the natives present that not above half its length +appeared above ground. They called it <i>Tangata Arekee</i>,[163] and +said that it had been set up, and the mount raised, by some of their +forefathers, in memory of one of their kings, but how long since they +could not tell.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 163: <i>Tangata,</i> in their language, is man; +<i>Arekee</i>, king.]</blockquote> + +<p>Night coming on, Mr Gore and I returned on board; and, at the same +time, Mr Bligh got back from sounding the bay, in which he found from +fourteen to twenty fathoms water, the bottom for the most part sand, +but not without some coral rocks. The place where we now anchored is +much better sheltered than that which we had lately come from; but +between the two is another anchoring station, much better than +either. Lefooga and Hoolaiva are divided from each other by a reef of +coral rocks, which is dry at low water; so that one may walk at that +time from the one to the other, without wetting a foot. Some of our +gentlemen, who landed in the latter island, did not find the least +mark of cultivation, or habitation, upon it, except a single hut, the +residence of a man employed to catch fish and turtle. It is rather +extraordinary that it should be in this deserted state, communicating +so immediately with Lefooga, which is so perfectly cultivated; for +though the soil is quite sandy, all the trees and plants found in a +natural state on the neighbouring islands, are produced here with the +greatest vigour. The E. side of it has a reef like Lefooga, and the +W. side has a bending at the N. part, where there seems to be good +anchorage. Uninhabited as Hoolaiva is, an artificial mount, like that +at the adjoining island, has been raised upon it, as high as some of +the surrounding trees.</p> + +<p>At day-break, next morning, I made the signal to weigh; and as I +intended to attempt a passage to Annamooka, in my way to Tongataboo, +by the S.W. amongst the intervening islands, I sent the master in a +boat to sound before the ships. But before we could get under sail +the wind became unsettled, which made it unsafe to attempt a passage +this way till we were better acquainted with it. I therefore lay +fast, and made the signal for the master to return; and afterward +sent him and the master of the Discovery, each in a boat, with +instructions to examine the channels, as far as they could, allowing +themselves time to get back to the ships before the close of the +day.</p> + +<p>About noon a large sailing canoe came under our stern, in which +was a person named Futtafaihe, or Poulaho, or both, who, as the +natives then on board told us, was King of Tongataboo, and of all the +neighbouring islands that we had seen or heard of. It was a matter of +surprise to me to have a stranger introduced under this character, +which I had so much reason to believe really belonged to another. But +they persisted in their account of the supreme dignity of this new +visitor; and now, for the first time, they owned to me, that Feenou +was not the king, but only a subordinate chief, though of great +power, as he was often sent from Tongataboo to the other islands on +warlike expeditions, or to decide differences. It being my interest, +as well as my inclination, to pay court to all the great men, without +making enquiry into the validity of their assumed titles, I invited +Poulaho on board, as I understood he was very desirous to come. He +could not be an unwelcome guest, for he brought with him, as a +present to me, two good fat hogs, though not so fat as himself, if +weight of body could give weight in rank and power, he was certainly +the most eminent man in that respect we had seen; for, though not +very tall, he was very unwieldy, and almost shapeless with +corpulence. He seemed to be about forty years of age, had straight +hair, and his features differed a good deal from those of the bulk of +his people. I found him to be a sedate, sensible man. He viewed the +ship, and the several new objects, with uncommon attention, and asked +many pertinent questions, one of which was, What could induce us to +visit these islands? After he had satisfied his curiosity in looking +at the cattle, and other novelties which he met with upon deck, I +desired him to walk down into the cabin. To this some of his +attendants objected, saying, that if he were to accept of that +invitation, it must happen, that people would walk over his head, +which could not be permitted. I directed my interpreter Omai, to tell +them that I would obviate their objection, by giving orders that no +one should presume to walk upon that part of the deck which was over +the cabin. Whether this expedient would have satisfied them was far +from appearing, but the chief himself, less scrupulous in this +respect than his attendants, waved all ceremony, and walked down +without any stipulation. He now appeared to be as solicitous himself, +as his people were, to convince us that he was king, and not Feenou, +who had passed with us as such; for he soon perceived that we had +some doubts about it, which doubts Omai was not very desirous of +removing. The closest connection had been formed between him and +Feenou, in testimony of which they had exchanged names; and therefore +he was not a little chagrined, that another person now put in his +claim to the honours which his friend had hitherto enjoyed.</p> + +<p>Poulaho sat down with us to dinner, but he ate little, and drank +less. When we rose from the table, he desired me to accompany him +ashore. Omai was asked to be of the party, but he was too faithfully +attached to Feenou to shew any attention to his competitor, and +therefore excused himself. I attended the chief in my own boat, +having first made presents to him of such articles as I could observe +he valued much, and were even beyond his expectation to receive. I +was not disappointed in my view of thus securing his friendship, for +the moment the boat reached the beach, and before he quitted her, he +ordered two more hogs to be brought, and delivered to my people to be +conveyed on board. He was then carried out of the boat by some of his +own people, upon a board resembling a hand-barrow, and went and +seated himself in a small house near the shore, which seemed to have +been erected there for his accommodation. He placed me at his side, +and his attendants, who were not numerous, seated themselves in a +semicircle before us, on the outside of the house. Behind the chief, +or rather on one side, sat an old woman, with a sort of fan in her +hand, whose office it was to prevent his being pestered with the +flies.</p> + +<p>The several articles which his people had got, by trading on board +the ships, were now displayed before him. He looked over them all +with attention, enquired what they had given in exchange, and seemed +pleased with the bargains they had made. At length he ordered every +thing to be restored to the respective owners, except a glass bowl, +with which he was so much pleased that he reserved it for himself. +The persons who brought these things to him, first squatted +themselves down before him, then they deposited their several +purchases, and immediately rose up and retired. The same respectful +ceremony was observed in taking them away, and not one of them +presumed to speak to him standing. I stayed till several of his +attendants left him, first paying him obeisance, by bowing the head +down to the sole of his foot, and touching or tapping the same with +the upper and under side of the fingers of both hands. Others, who +were not in the circle, came, as it seemed, on purpose, and paid him +this mark of respect and then retired, without speaking a word. I was +quite charmed with the decorum that was observed. I had no where seen +the like, not even amongst more civilized nations.</p> + +<p>I found the master returned from his expedition when I got on +board. He informed me, that, as far as he had proceeded, there was +anchorage, and a passage for the ships, but that toward the S. and +S.E. he saw a number of small isles, shoals, and breakers. Judging, +from this report, that my attempting a passage that way would be +attended with some risk, I now dropped all thoughts of it, thinking +it better to return toward Annamooka by the same route, which we had +so lately experienced to be a safe one.</p> + +<p>Having come to this resolution, I should have sailed next morning +if the wind had not been too far southerly, and at the same time very +unsettled. Poulaho, the king, as I shall now call him, came on board +betimes, and brought, as a present to me, one of their caps, made, or +at least covered, with red feathers. These caps were much sought +after by us, for we knew they would be highly valued at Otaheite. But +though very large prices were offered, not one was ever brought for +sale; which shewed that they were no less valuable in the estimation +of the people here; nor was there a person in either ship that could +make himself the proprietor of one, except myself, Captain Clerke, +and Omai. These caps, or rather bonnets, are composed of the tail +feathers of the tropic bird, with the red feathers of the parroquets +wrought upon them, or jointly with them. They are made so as to tie +upon the forehead without any crown, and have the form of a +semicircle, whose <i>radius</i> is eighteen or twenty inches. The +chief stayed on board till the evening, when he left us; but his +brother, whose name was also Futtafaihe, and one or two or more of +his attendants, continued in the ship all night.</p> + +<p>At day-break, the next morning, I weighed with a fine breeze at +E.N.E. and stood to the westward, with a view to return to Annamooka, +by the track we had already experienced. We were followed by several +sailing canoes, in one of which was the king. As soon as he got on +board the Resolution, he enquired for his brother, and the others who +had remained with us all night. It now appeared that they had stayed +without his leave, for he gave them, in a very few words, such a +reprimand as brought tears from their eyes, and yet they were men not +less than thirty years of age. He was, however, soon reconciled to +their making a longer stay, for, on quitting us, he left his brother, +and five of his attendants, on board. We had also the company of a +chief just then arrived from Tongataboo, whose name was Tooboueitoa. +The moment he arrived he sent his canoe away, and declared, that he +and five more, who came with him, would sleep on board, so that I had +now my cabin filled with visitors. This, indeed, was some +inconvenience; but I bore with it more willingly, as they brought +plenty of provisions with them as presents to me, for which they +always had suitable returns.</p> + +<p>About one o'clock in the afternoon, the easterly wind was +succeeded by a fresh breeze at S.S.E. Our course now being S.S.W. or +more southerly, we were obliged to ply to windward, and did but just +fetch the N. side of Footooha by eight o'clock, where we spent the +night, making short boards.</p> + +<p>The next morning we plyed up to Lofanga, where, according to the +information of our friends, there was anchorage. It was one o'clock +in the afternoon before we got soundings under the lee or N.W. side, +in forty fathoms water, near half a mile from the shore; but the bank +was steep, and the bottom rocky, and a chain of breakers lay to +leeward. All these circumstances being against us, I stretched away +for Kotoo, with the expectation of finding better anchoring ground +under that island. But so much time had been spent in plying up to +Lofanga, that it was dark before we reached the other; and finding no +place to anchor in, the night was spent as the preceding one.</p> + +<p>At day-break on the 31st I stood for the channel, which is between +Kotoo and the reef of rocks that lie to the westward of it; but, on +drawing near, I found the wind too scant to lead us through. I +therefore bore up on the outside of the reef, and stretched to the +S.W. till near noon, when, perceiving that we made no progress to +windward, and being apprehensive of losing the islands with so many +of the natives on board, I tacked and stood back, intending to wait +till some more favourable opportunity. We did but just fetch in with +Footooba, between which and Kotoo we spent the night, under reefed +top-sails and fore-sail. The wind blew fresh, and by squalls, with +rain; and we were not without apprehensions of danger. I kept the +deck till midnight, when I left it to the master, with such +directions as I thought would keep the ships clear of the shoals and +rocks that lay round us. But, after making a trip to the N., and +standing back again to the S., our ship, by a small shift of the +wind, fetched farther to the windward than was expected. By this +means she was very near running full upon a low sandy isle, called +Pootoo Pootooa, surrounded with breakers. It happened, very +fortunately, that the people had just been ordered upon the deck to +put the ship about, and the most of them were at their stations, so +that the necessary movements were not only executed with judgment, +but also with alertness, and this alone saved us from destruction. +The Discovery being a-stern was out of danger. Such hazardous +situations are the unavoidable companions of the man who goes upon a +voyage of discovery.</p> + +<p>This circumstance frightened our passengers so much that they +expressed a strong desire to get ashore. Accordingly, as soon as +day-light returned, I hoisted out a boat, and ordered the officer who +commanded her, after landing them at Kotoo, to sound along the reef +that spits off from that island for anchorage; for I was full as much +tired as they could be with beating about amongst the surrounding +isles and shoals, and determined to get to an anchor somewhere or +other if possible. While the boat was absent, we attempted to turn +the ships through the channel, between the sandy isle and the reef of +Kotoo, in expectation of finding a moderate depth of water behind +them to anchor in. But, meeting with a tide or current against us, we +were obliged to desist, and anchor in fifty fathoms water, with the +sandy isle bearing E. by N. one mile distant.</p> + +<p>We lay here till the 4th of June. While in this station we were +several times visited by the king, by Touboueitoa, and by people from +the neighbouring islands, who came off to trade with us, though the +wind blew very fresh most of the time. The master was now sent to +sound the channels between the islands that lie to the eastward; and +I landed on Kotoo to examine it in the forenoon of the 2d.</p> + +<p>This island is scarcely accessible by boats, on account of coral +reefs that surround it. It is not more than a mile and half, or two +miles, long, and not so broad. The N.W. end of it is low, like the +islands of Hapaee; but it rises suddenly in the middle, and +terminates in reddish clayey cliffs at the S.E. end, about thirty +feet high. The soil, in that quarter, is of the same sort as in the +cliffs, but in the other parts it is a loose black mould. It produces +the same fruits and roots which we found at the other islands; is +tolerably cultivated, but thinly inhabited. While I was walking all +over it, our people were employed in cutting some grass for the +cattle; and we planted some melon seeds, with which the natives +seemed much pleased, and inclosed them with branches. On our return +to the boat we passed by two or three ponds of dirty water, which was +more or less brackish in each of them; and saw one of their +burying-places, which was much neater than those that were met with +at Hepaee.</p> + +<p>On the 4th, at seven in the morning, we weighed, and, with a fresh +gale at E.S.E., stood away for Annamooka, where we anchored next +morning, nearly in the same station which we had so lately +occupied.</p> + +<p>I went on shore soon after, and found the inhabitants very busy in +their plantations, digging up yams to bring to market; and, in the +course of the day, about two hundred of them had assembled on the +beach, and traded with as much eagerness, as during our late visit. +Their stock appeared to have been recruited much, though we had +returned so soon; but instead of bread-fruit, which was the only +article we could purchase on our first arrival, nothing was to be +seen now but yams, and a few plantains. This shews the quick +succession of the seasons, at least of the different vegetables +produced here, at the several times of the year. It appeared also +that they had been very busy while we were absent in cultivating, for +we now saw several large plantain fields, in places which we had so +lately seen lying waste. The yams were now in the greatest +perfection, and we procured a good quantity in exchanges for pieces +of iron.</p> + +<p>These people, in the absence of Toubou, whom we left behind us at +Kotoo, with Poulaho and the other chiefs, seemed to be under little +subordination. For we could not perceive this day that one man +assumed more authority than another. Before I returned on board I +visited the several places where I had sown melon seeds, and had the +mortification to find that most of them were destroyed by a small +ant; but some pine-apple plants, which I had also left, were in a +thriving state.</p> + +<p>About noon next day, Feenou arrived from Vavaoo. He told us, that +several canoes, laden with hogs and other provisions, which had +sailed with him from that island, had been lost, owing to the late +blowing weather, and that every body on board them had perished. This +melancholy tale did not seem to affect any of his countrymen who +heard it, and, as to ourselves, we were by this time too well +acquainted with his character to give much credit to such a story. +The truth probably was, that he had not been able to procure at +Vavaoo the supplies which he expected; or, if he got any there, that +he had left them at Hepaee, which lay in his way back, and where he +could not but receive intelligence that Poulaho had been with us; +who, therefore, he knew, would, as his superior, have all the merit +and reward of procuring them, though he had not any share of the +trouble. The invention of this loss at sea was however well imagined, +for there had lately been very blowing weather; insomuch, that the +king, and other chiefs, who had followed us from Hepaee to Kotoo, had +been left there, not caring to venture to sea when we did, but +desired I might wait for them at Annamooka, which was the reason of +my anchoring there this second time, and of my not proceeding +directly to Tongataboo.</p> + +<p>The following morning Poulaho, and the other chiefs who had been +wind-bound with him, arrived. I happened, at this time, to be ashore +in company with Feenou, who now seemed to be sensible of the +impropriety of his conduct, in assuming a character that did not +belong to him. For he not only acknowledged Poulaho to be King of +Tongataboo, and the other isles, but affected to insist much on it, +which, no doubt, was with a view to make amends for his former +presumption. I left him to visit this greater man, whom I found +sitting with a few people before him. But every one hastening to pay +court to him, the circle increased pretty fast. I was very desirous +of observing Feenou's behaviour on this occasion, and had the most +convincing proof of his superiority, for he placed himself amongst +the rest that sat before Poulaho, as attendants on his majesty. He +seemed at first rather abashed, as some of us were present who had +been used to see him act a different part; but he soon recovered +himself. Some little conversation passed between these two chiefs, +which none of us understood, nor were we satisfied with Omai's +interpretation of it. We were, however, by this time sufficiently +undeceived as to Feenou's rank. Both he and Poulaho went on board +with me to dinner, but only the latter sat at table. Feenou, having +made his obeisance in the usual way, saluting his sovereign's foot +with his head and hands, retired out of the cabin.[164] The king had +before told us that this would happen, and it now appeared that +Feenou could not even eat or drink in his royal presence.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 164: Marks of profound respect, very similar to +those paid by natives of the Friendly Islands to their sovereign, are +also paid to the principal chiefs, or <i>Tamoles</i>, of the Caroline +Islands, as appears from Father Cantova's account here transcribed. +"Lorsqu'un <i>Tamole</i> donne audience, il paroit assis sur une +table elevée: les peuples s'inclinent devant lui +jusqu'à terre; et du plus loin qu'ils arrivent, il marchent le +corps tout courbé, et la tête presqu'entre les +génoux, jusqu'à ce qu'ils soient auprès de sa +personne; alors ils s'asseyent à plate terre; et, les yeux +baissés, il reçoivent ses ordres avec le plus profond +respect. Quand le <i>Tamole</i> les congédie, ils se retirent, +en se courbant de la même manière que quand ils sont +venus, et ne se relevent que lorsqu'ils sont hors de sa presence. Ses +paroles sont autant d'oracles qu'on revere; on rend à ses +ordres une obeissance aveugle; enfin, on baise les mains et les +pieds, quand on lui demande quelque grace."--<i>Lettres Edifiantes et +Curieuses</i>, <i>tom.</i> xv. p. 312, 313.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>At eight o'clock next morning we weighed and steered for +Tongataboo, having a gentle breeze at N.E. About fourteen or fifteen +sailing-vessels, belonging to the natives, set out with us, but every +one of them outrun the ships considerably. Feenou was to have taken +his passage in the Resolution, but preferred his own canoe, and put +two men on board to conduct us to the best anchorage. We steered S. +by W. by compass.</p> + +<p>At five in the afternoon we saw two small islands bearing W., +about four leagues distant. Our pilots called the one Hoonga Hapaee, +and the other Hoonga Tonga. They lie in the latitude of 20° 36', +and ten or eleven leagues from the W. point of Annamooka, in the +direction of S. 46° W. According to the account of the islanders +on board, only five men reside upon Hoonga Hapaee, and Hoonga Tonga +is uninhabited; but both of them abound with sea-fowl.</p> + +<p>We continued the same course till two o'clock next morning, when, +seeing some lights ahead, and not knowing whether they were on shore, +or on board the canoes, we hauled the wind, and made a short trip +each way till daybreak. We then resumed our course to the S. by W.; +and presently after saw several small islands before us, and Eooa and +Tongataboo beyond them. We had, at this time, twenty-five fathoms +water, over a bottom of broken coral and sand. The depth gradually +decreased as we drew near the isles above mentioned, which lie ranged +along the N.E. side of Tongataboo. By the direction of our pilots we +steered for the middle of it, and for the widest space between the +small isles which we were to pass, having our boats ahead employed in +sounding. We were insensibly drawn upon a large flat, upon which lay +innumerable coral rocks, of different depths, below the surface of +the water. Notwithstanding all our care and attention to keep the +ship clear of them, we could not prevent her from striking on one of +these rocks. Nor did the Discovery, though behind us, escape any +better. Fortunately, neither of the ships stuck fast, nor received +any damage. We could not get back without increasing the danger, as +we had come almost before the wind. Nor could we cast anchor, but +with the certainty of having our cables instantly cut in two by the +rocks. We had no other resource but to proceed. To this, indeed, we +were encouraged, not only by being told, but by seeing, that there +was deeper water between us and the shore. However, that we might be +better informed, the moment we found a spot where we could drop the +anchor, clear of rocks, we came-to, and sent the masters with the +boats to sound.</p> + +<p>Soon after we had anchored, which was about noon, several of the +inhabitants of Tongataboo came off in their canoes to the ships. +These, as well as our pilots, assured us that we should find deep +water farther in, and a bottom free from rocks. They were not +mistaken; for about four o'clock the boats made the signal for having +found good anchorage. Upon this we weighed, and stood in till dark, +and then anchored in nine fathoms, having a fine, clear, sandy +bottom.</p> + +<p>During the night we had some showers of rain, but toward the +morning the wind shifted to the S. and S.E., and brought on fair +weather. At day-break we weighed, and, working in to the shore, met +with no obstructions, but such as were visible and easily +avoided.</p> + +<p>While we were plying up to the harbour, to which the natives +directed us, the king kept sailing round us in his canoe. There were, +at the same time, a great many small canoes about the ships. Two of +these, which could not get out of the way of his royal vessel, he run +quite over, with as little concern as if they had been bits of wood. +Amongst many others who came on board the Resolution, was Otago, who +had been so useful to me when I visited Tongataboo during my last +voyage, and one Toubou, who, at that time, had attached himself to +Captain Furneaux. Each of them brought a hog and some yams, as a +testimony of his friendship; and I was not wanting, on my part, in +making a suitable return.</p> + +<p>At length, about two in the afternoon, we arrived at our intended +station. It was a very snug place, formed by the shore of Tongataboo +on the S.E. and two small islands on the E. and N.E. Here we anchored +in ten fathoms water, over a bottom of oozy sand, distant from the +shore one-third of a mile.</p> + +<p>SECTION VII.</p> + +<p><i>Friendly Reception at Tongataboo.--Manner of distributing a +baked Hog and Kava to Poulaho's Attendants.--The Observatory, etc. +erected.--The Village where the Chiefs reside, and the adjoining +Country, described.--Interviews with Mareewagee, and Toobou, and the +King's Son.--A grand Haiva, or Entertainment of Songs and Dances, +given by Mareewagee.--Exhibition of Fireworks.--Manner of Wrestling +and Boxing.--Distribution of the Cattle.--Thefts committed by the +Natives.--Poulaho, and the other Chiefs, confined on that +Account.--Poulaho's Present and Haiva.</i></p> + +<p>Soon after we had anchored, having first dined, I landed, +accompanied by Omai and some of the officers. We found the king +waiting for as upon the beach. He immediately conducted us to a small +neat house, situated a little within the skirts of the wood, with a +fine large area before it. This house, he told me, was at my service +during our stay at the island; and a better situation we could not +wish for.</p> + +<p>We had not been long in the house before a pretty large circle of +the natives were assembled before us, and seated upon the area. A +root of the <i>kava</i> plant being brought, and laid down before the +king, he ordered it to be split into pieces, and distributed to +several people of both sexes, who began the operation of chewing it, +and a bowl of their favourite liquor was soon prepared. In the mean +time, a baked hog, and two baskets of baked yams, were produced, and +afterward divided into ten portions. These portions were then given +to certain people present; but how many were to share in each I could +not tell. One of them, I observed, was bestowed upon the king's +brother, and one remained undisposed of, which, I judged, was for the +king himself, as it was a choice bit. The liquor was next served out, +but Poulaho seemed to give no directions about it. The first cup was +brought to him, which he ordered to be given to one who sat near him. +The second was also brought to him, and this he kept. The third was +given to me, but their manner of brewing having quenched my thirst, +it became Omai's property. The rest of the liquor was distributed to +different people, by direction of the man who had the management of +it. One of the cups being carried to the king's brother, he retired +with this, and with his mess of victuals. Some others also quitted +the circle with their portions, and the reason was, they could +neither eat nor drink in the royal presence; but there were others +present, of a much inferior rank, of both sexes, who did both. Soon +after most of them withdrew, carrying with them what they had not eat +of their share of the feast.</p> + +<p>I observed that not a fourth part of the company had tasted either +the victuals or the drink; those who partook of the former I supposed +to be of the king's household. The servants who distributed the baked +meat and the <i>kava</i>, always delivered it out of their hand +sitting, not only to the king but to every other person. It is worthy +of remark, though this was the first time of our landing, and a great +many people were present who had never seen us before, yet no one was +troublesome, but the greatest good order was preserved throughout the +whole assembly.</p> + +<p>Before I returned on board, I went in search of a watering-place, +and was conducted to some ponds, or rather holes, containing fresh +water, as they were pleased to call it. The contents of one of these +indeed were tolerable, but it was at some distance inland, and the +supply to be got from it was very inconsiderable. Being informed that +the little island of Pangimodoo, near which the ships lay, could +better furnish this necessary article, I went over to it next +morning, and was so fortunate as to find there a small pool that had +rather fresher water than any we had met with amongst these islands. +The pool being very dirty, I ordered it to be cleaned; and here it +was that we watered the ships.</p> + +<p>As I intended to make some stay at Tongataboo, we pitched a tent +in the forenoon, just by the house which Poulaho had assigned for our +use. The horses, cattle, and sheep, were afterward landed, and a +party of marines, with their officer, stationed there as a guard. The +observatory was then set up, at a small distance from the other tent; +and Mr King resided on shore, to attend the observations, and to +superintend the several operations necessary to be conducted there. +For the sails were carried thither to be repaired; a party was +employed in cutting wood for fuel, and plank for the use of the +ships; and the gunners of both were ordered to remain on the spot, to +conduct the traffic with the natives, who thronged from every part of +the island with hogs, yams, cocoa-nuts, and other articles of their +produce. In a short time our land post was like a fair, and the ships +were so crowded with visitors, that we had hardly room to stir upon +the decks.</p> + +<p>Feenou had taken up his residence in our neighbourhood; but he was +no longer the leading man. However we still found him to be a person +of consequence, and we had daily proofs of his opulence and +liberality, by the continuance of his valuable presents. But the king +was equally attentive in this respect, for scarcely a day passed +without receiving from him some considerable donation. We now heard +that there were other great men of the island whom we had not as yet +seen. Otago and Toobou, in particular, mentioned a person named +Mareewagee, who, they said, was of the first consequence in the +place, and held in great veneration, nay, if Omai did not +misunderstand them, superior even to Poulaho, to whom he was related; +but being old, lived in retirement, and therefore would not visit us. +Some of the natives even hinted that he was too great a man to confer +that honour upon us. This account exciting my curiosity, I this day +mentioned to Poulaho that I was very desirous of waiting upon +Mareewagee; and he readily agreed to accompany me to the place of his +residence the next morning.</p> + +<p>Accordingly, we set out pretty early in the pinnace, and Captain +Clerke joined me in one of his own boats. We proceeded round, that +is, to the eastward of the little isles that form the harbour, and +then, turning to the S., according to Poulaho's directions, entered a +spacious bay or inlet, up which we rowed about a league, and landed +amidst a considerable number of people, who received us with a sort +of acclamation, not unlike our huzzaing. They immediately separated, +to let Poulaho pass, who took us into a small inclosure, and shifted +the piece of cloth he wore for a new piece, neatly folded, that was +carried by a young man. An old woman assisted in dressing him, and +put a mat over his cloth, as we supposed, to prevent its being +dirtied when he sat down. On our now asking him where Mareewagee was, +to our great surprise, he said he had gone from the place to the ship +just before we arrived. However, he desired us to walk with him to a +<i>malaee</i>, or house of public resort, which stood about half a +mile up the country. But when we came to a large area before it, he +sat down in the path, and desired us to walk up to the house. We did +so, and seated ourselves in front, while the crowd that followed us +filled up the rest of the space. After sitting a little while, we +repeated our enquiries, by means of Omai, Whether we were to see +Mareewagee? But receiving no satisfactory information, and suspecting +that the old chief was purposely concealed from us, we went back to +our boats much piqued at our disappointment; and when I got on board +I found that no such person had been there. It afterward appeared, +that in this affair we had laboured under some gross mistakes, and +that our interpreter Omai had either been misinformed, or, which is +more likely, had misunderstood what was told him about the great man, +on whose account we had made this excursion.</p> + +<p>The place we went to was a village, most delightfully situated on +the bank of the inlet, where all, or most of the principal persons of +the island reside, each having his house in the midst of a small +plantation, with lesser houses, and offices for servants. These +plantations are neatly fenced round; and, for the most part, have +only one entrance. This is by a door, fastened on the inside by a +prop of wood, so that a person has to knock before he can get +admittance. Public roads, and narrow lanes, lie between each +plantation, so that no one trespasseth upon another. Great part of +some of these inclosures is laid out in grass-plots, and planted with +such things as seem more for ornament than use; but hardly any were +without the <i>kava</i> plant, from which they make their favourite +liquor. Every article of the vegetable produce of the island abounded +in others of these plantations; but these, I observed, are not the +residence of people of the first rank. There are some large houses +near the public roads, with spacious smooth grass-plots before them, +and uninclosed. These, I was told, belonged to the king; and probably +they are the places where their public assemblies are held. It was to +one of these houses, as I have already mentioned, that we were +conducted soon after our landing at this place.</p> + +<p>About noon, the next day, this Mareewagee, of whom we had heard so +much, actually came to the neighbourhood of our post on shore, and +with him a very considerable number of people of all ranks. I was +informed, that he had taken this trouble on purpose to give me an +opportunity of waiting upon him; having probably heard of the +displeasure I had shewn on my disappointment the day before. In the +afternoon, a party of us, accompanied by Feenou, landed, to pay him a +visit. We found a person sitting under a large tree near the shore, a +little to the right of the tent. A piece of cloth, at least forty +yards long, was spread before him, round which a great number of +people of both sexes were seated. It was natural to suppose that this +was the great man, but we were undeceived by Feenou, who informed us +that another, who sat on a piece of mat, a little way from this +chief, to the right hand, was Mareewagee, and he introduced us to +him, who received us very kindly, and desired us to sit down by him. +The person who sat under the tree, fronting us, was called Toobou; +and, when I have occasion to speak of him afterward, I shall call him +old Toobou, to distinguish him from his namesake, Captain Furneaux's +friend. Both he and Mareewagee had a venerable appearance. The latter +was a slender man, and, from his appearance, seemed to be +considerably above threescore years of age; the former was rather +corpulent, and almost blind with a disorder of his eyes, though not +so old.</p> + +<p>Not expecting to meet with two chiefs on this occasion, I had only +brought on shore a present for one. This I now found myself under a +necessity of dividing between them; but it happened to be pretty +considerable, and both of them seemed satisfied. After this, we +entertained them for about an hour with the performance of two French +horns and a drum. But they seemed most pleased with the firing off a +pistol, which Captain Clerke had in his pocket. Before I took my +leave, the large piece of cloth was rolled up, and, with a few +cocoa-nuts, presented to me.</p> + +<p>The next morning old Toobou returned my visit on board the ship. +He also visited Captain Clerke; and if the present we made to him the +evening before was scanty, the deficiency was now made up. During +this time Mareewagee visited our people ashore, and Mr King shewed to +him, every thing we had there. He viewed the cattle with great +admiration, and the cross-cut saw fixed his attention for some +time.</p> + +<p>Toward noon Poulaho returned from the place where we had left, him +two days before, and brought with him his son, a youth about twelve +years of age. I had his company at dinner; but the son, though +present, was not allowed to sit down with him. It was very convenient +to have him for my guest. For when he was present, which was +generally the case while we stayed here, every other native was +excluded from the table, and but few of them would remain in the +cabin. Whereas, if by chance it happened that neither he nor Feenou +were on board, the inferior chiefs would be very importunate to be of +our dining party, or to be admitted into the cabin at that time, and +then we were so crowded that we could not sit down to a meal with any +satisfaction. The king was very soon reconciled to our manner of +cookery. But still I believe he dined thus frequently with me more +for the sake of what we gave him to drink, than for what we set +before him to eat. For he had taken a liking to our wine, could empty +his bottle as well as most men, and was as cheerful over it. He now +fixed his residence at the house, or <i>malaee</i>, by our tent; and +there he entertained our people this evening with a dance. To the +surprise of every body the unwieldy Poulaho endeavoured to vie with +others in that active amusement.</p> + +<p>In the morning of the 15th I received a message from old Toobou +that he wanted to see me ashore. Accordingly Omai and I went to wait +upon him. We found him, like an ancient patriarch, seated under the +shade of a tree, with a large piece of the cloth, made in the island, +spread out at full length before him, and a number of respectably +looking people sitting round it. He desired us to place ourselves by +him; and then he told Omai, that the cloth, together with a piece of +red feathers, and about a dozen cocoa-nuts, were his present to me. I +thanked him for the favour, and desired he would go on board with me, +as I had nothing on shore to give him in return.</p> + +<p>Omai now left me, being sent for by Penlaho; and soon after Feenou +came, and acquainted me that young Fattafaihe, Poulaho's son, desired +to see me. I obeyed the summons, and found the prince and Omai +sitting under a large canopy of the finer sort of cloth, with a piece +of the coarser sort spread under them and before them, that was +seventy-six yards long, and seven and a half broad. On one side was a +large old boar, and on the other side a heap of cocoa-nuts. A number +of people were seated round the cloth, and amongst them I observed +Mareewagee, and others of the first rank. I was desired to sit down +by the prince; and then Omai informed me, that he had been instructed +by the king to tell me, that, as he and I were friends, he hoped that +his son might be joined in this friendship, and that, as a token of +my consent, I would accept of his present. I very readily agreed to +the proposal; and it being now dinner time, I invited them all on +board.</p> + +<p>Accordingly, the young prince, Mareewagee, old Toobou, three or +four inferior chiefs, and two respectable old ladies of the first +rank, accompanied me. Mareewagee was dressed in a new piece of cloth, +on the skirts of which were fixed six pretty large patches of red +feathers. This dress seemed to have been made on purpose for this +visit; for, as soon as he got on board, he put it off, and presented +it to me; having, I guess, heard that it would be acceptable, on +account of the feathers. Every one of my visitors received from me +such presents, as, I had reason to believe, they were highly +satisfied with. When dinner came upon table, not one of them would +sit down, or eat a bit, of any thing that was served up. On +expressing my surprise at this, they were all <i>taboo</i>, as they +said; which word has a very comprehensive meanings but, in general, +signifies that a thing is forbidden. Why they were laid under such +restraints, at present, was not explained. Dinner being over, and, +having gratified their curiosity, by shewing to them every part of +the ship, I then conducted them ashore.</p> + +<p>As soon as the boat reached the beach, Feenou, and some others, +instantly stepped out. Young Fattafaihe following them, was called +back by Mareewagee, who now paid the heir-apparent the same +obeisance, and in the same manner, that I had seen it paid to the +king. And when old Toobou, and one of the old ladies, had shewn him +the same marks of respect, he was suffered to land. This ceremony +being over, the old people stepped from my boat into a canoe that was +waiting to carry them to their place of abode.</p> + +<p>I was not sorry to be present on this occasion, as I was thus +furnished with the most unequivocal proofs of the supreme dignity of +Poulaho and his son, over the other principal chiefs. Indeed, by this +time, I had acquired some certain information about the relative +situations of the several great men, whose names have been so often +mentioned. I now knew, that Mareewagee and old Toobou were brothers. +Both of them were men of great property in the island, and seemed to +be in high estimation with the people; the former, in particular, had +the very honourable appellation given to him, by every body, of +<i>Motooa Tonga</i>; that is to say, Father of Tonga, or of his +country. The nature of his relationship to the king was also no +longer a secret to us; for we now understood, that he was his +father-in-law; Poulaho having married one of his daughters, by whom +he had this son; so that Mareewagee was the prince's grandfather. +Poulaho's appearance having satisfied us, that we had been under a +mistake in considering Feenou as the sovereign of these islands, we +had been, at first, much puzzled about his real rank; but that was, +by this time, ascertained. Feenou was one of Mareewagee's sons; and +Tooboueitoa was another.</p> + +<p>On my landing, I found the king, in the house adjoining to our +tent, along with our people who resided on shore. The moment I got to +him, he bestowed upon me a present of a large hog and a quantity of +yams. About the dusk of the evening, a number of men came, and, +having sat down in a round group, began to sing in concert with the +music of bamboo drums, which were placed in the centre.[165] There +were three long ones, and two short. With these they struck the +ground endwise, as before described. There were two others, which lay +on the ground, side by side, and one of them was split or shivered; +on these a man kept beating with two small sticks. They sung three +songs while I stayed; and, I was told, that, after I left them, the +entertainment lasted till ten o'clock. They burnt the leaves of the +<i>wharra</i> palm for a light; which is the only thing I ever saw +them make use of for this purpose.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 165: The same sort of evening concert is +performed round the house of the chief, or <i>Tamole</i>, at the +Caroline Islands. "Le <i>Tamole</i> ne s'endort qu'au bruit d'un +concert de musique que forme une troupe de jeunes gens, qui +s'assemblent le soir, autour de sa maison, et qui chantent, à +leur manière, certaines poësies."--<i>Lettres Edifiantes +& Curieuses</i>, tom, xv. p. 314.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>While I was passing the day in attendance on these great men, Mr +Anderson, with some others, made an excursion into the country, which +furnished him with the following remarks: "To the westward of the +tent, the country is totally uncultivated for near two miles, though +quite covered with trees and bushes, in a natural state, growing with +the greatest vigour. Beyond this is a pretty large plain, on which +are some cocoa-trees, and a few small plantations that appear to have +been lately made; and, seemingly, on ground that has never been +cultivated before. Near the creek, which runs to the westward of the +tent, the land is quite flat, and partly overflowed by the sea every +tide. When that retires, the surface is seen to be composed of coral +rock, with holes of yellowish mud scattered up and down; and toward +the edges, where it is a little firmer, are innumerable little +openings, from which issue as many small crabs, of two or three +different sorts, which swarm upon the spot, as flies upon a carcase; +but are so nimble, that, on being approached, they disappear in an +instant, and baffle even the natives to catch any of them.</p> + +<p>At this place is a work of art, which shews that these people are +capable of some design, and perseverance, when they mean to +accomplish any thing. This work begins, on one side, as a narrow +causeway, which, becoming gradually broader, rises, with a gentle +ascent, to the height of ten feet, where it is five paces broad, and +the whole length seventy-four paces. Joined to this is a sort of +circus, whose diameter is thirty paces, and not above a foot or two +higher than the causeway that joins it, with some trees planted in +the middle. On the opposite side, another causeway of the same sort +descends; but this is not above forty paces long, and is partly in +ruin. The whole is built with large coral stones, with earth on the +surface, which is quite overgrown with low trees and shrubs; and, +from its decaying in several places, seems to be of no modern date. +Whatever may have been its use formerly, it seems to be of none now; +and all that we could learn of it from the natives was, that it +belonged to Poulaho, and is called <i>Etchee</i>.</p> + +<p>On the 16th, in the morning, after visiting the several works now +carrying on ashore, Mr Gore and I took a walk into the country; in +the course of which nothing remarkable appeared, but our having +opportunities of seeing the whole process of making cloth, which is +the principal manufacture of these islands, as well as of many others +in this ocean. In the narrative of my first voyage, a minute +description is given of this operation, as performed at Otaheite; but +the process, here, differing in some particulars, it may be worth +while to give the following account of it:</p> + +<p>The manufacturers, who are females, take the slender stalks or +trunks of the paper-mulberry, which they cultivate for that purpose, +and which seldom grow more than six or seven feet in height, and +about four fingers in thickness. From these they strip the bark, and +scrape off the outer rind with a muscle-shell. The bark is then +rolled up, to take off the convexity which it had round the stalk, +and macerated in water for some time (they say, a night). After this, +it is laid across the trunk of a small tree squared, and beaten with +a square wooden instrument, about a foot long, full of coarse grooves +on all sides; but, sometimes, with one that is plain. According to +the size of the bark, a piece is soon produced; but the operation is +often repeated by another hand, or it is folded several times, and +beat longer, which seems rather intended to close than to divide its +texture. When this is sufficiently effected, it is spread out to dry; +the pieces being from four to six, or more, feet in length, and half +as broad. They are then given to another person, who joins the +pieces, by smearing part of them over with the viscous juice of a +berry, called <i>tooo</i>, which serves as a glue. Having been thus +lengthened, they are laid over a large piece of wood, with a kind of +stamp, made of a fibrous substance pretty closely interwoven, placed +beneath. They then take a bit of cloth, and dip it in a juice, +expressed from the bark of a tree, called <i>kokka</i>, which they +rub briskly upon the piece that is making. This, at once, leaves a +dull brown colour, and a dry gloss upon its surface; the stamp, at +the same time, making a slight impression, that answers no other +purpose, that I could see, but to make the several pieces, that are +glued together, stick a little more firmly. In this manner they +proceed, joining and staining by degrees, till they produce a piece +of cloth, of such length and breadth as they want; generally leaving +a border, of a foot broad, at the sides, and longer at the ends, +unstained. Throughout the whole, if any parts of the original pieces +are too thin, or have holes, which is often the case, they glue spare +bits upon them, till they become of an equal thickness. When they +want to produce a black colour, they mix the soot procured from an +oily nut, called <i>dooedooe</i>, with the juice of the <i>kokka</i>, +in different quantities, according to the proposed depth of the +tinge. They say, that the black sort of cloth, which is commonly most +glazed, makes a cold dress, but the other a warm one; and, to obtain +strength in both, they are always careful to join the small pieces +lengthwise, which makes it impossible to tear the cloth in any +direction but one.</p> + +<p>On our return from the country, we met with Feenou, and took him, +and another young chief, on board to dinner. When our fare was set +upon the table, neither of them would eat a bit; saying, that they +were <i>taboo avy</i>. But, after enquiring how the victuals had been +dressed, having found that no <i>avy</i> (water) had been used in +cooking a pig; and some yams, they both sat down, and made a very +hearty meal; and, on being assured that there was no water in the +wine, they drank of it also. From this we conjectured, that, on some +account or another, they were, at this time, forbidden to use water; +or, which was more probable, they did not like the water we made use +of, it being taken up out of one of their bathing-places. This was +not the only time of our meeting with people that were <i>taboo +avy</i>; but, for what reason, we never could tell with any degree of +certainty.</p> + +<p>Next day, the 17th, was fixed upon by Mareewagee, for giving a +grand <i>Haiva</i>, or entertainment, to which we were all invited. +For this purpose a large space had been cleared, before the temporary +hut of this chief, near our post, as an area where the performances +were to be exhibited. In the morning, great multitudes of the natives +came in from the country, every one carrying a pole, about six feet +long, upon his shoulder; and at each end of every pole, a yam was +suspended. These yams and poles were deposited on each side of the +area, so as to form two large heaps, decorated with different sorts +of small fish, and piled up to the greatest advantage. They were +Mareewagee's present to Captain Clerke and me; and it was hard to +say, whether the wood for fuel, or the yams for food, were of most +value to us. As for the fish, they might serve to please the sight, +but were very offensive to the smell; part of them having been kept +two or three days, to be presented to us on this occasion.</p> + +<p>Every thing being thus prepared, about eleven o'clock they began +to exhibit various dances, which they call <i>mai</i>. The music[166] +consisted, at first, of seventy men as a chorus, who sat down; and +amidst them were placed three instruments, which we called drums, +though very unlike them. They are large cylindrical pieces of wood, +or trunks of trees, from three to four feet long, some twice as thick +as an ordinary sized man, and some smaller, hollowed entirely out, +but close at both ends, and open only by a chink, about three inches +broad, running almost the whole length of the drums; by which +opening, the rest of the wood is certainly hollowed, though the +operation must be difficult. This instrument is called <i>naffa</i>; +and, with the chink turned toward them, they sit and beat strongly +upon it, with two cylindrical pieces of hard wood, about a foot long, +and as thick as the wrist; by which means they produce a rude, though +loud and powerful sound. They vary the strength and rate of their +beating, at different parts of the dance; and also change the tones, +by beating in the middle, or near the end, of their drum.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 166: Mr Anderson's description of the +entertainments of this day being much fuller than Captain Cook's, it +has been adopted, as on a former occasion.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>The first dance consisted of four ranks, of twenty-four men each, +holding in their hands a little, thin, light, wooden instrument, +above two feet long, and, in shape, not unlike a small oblong paddle. +With these, which are called <i>pagge</i>, they made a great many +different motions; such as pointing them toward the ground on one +side, at the same time inclining their bodies that way, from which +they were shifted to the opposite side in the same manner; then +passing them quickly from one hand to the other, and twirling them +about very dextrously; with a variety of other manoeuvres, all which +were accompanied by corresponding attitudes of the body. Their +motions were, at first, slow, but quickened as the drums beat faster; +and they recited sentences, in a musical tone, the whole time, which +were answered by the chorus; but at the end of a short space they all +joined, and finished with a shout.</p> + +<p>After ceasing about two or three minutes, they began as before, +and continued, with short intervals, above a quarter of an hour; when +the rear rank dividing, shifted themselves very slowly round each +end, and, meeting in the front, formed the first rank; the whole +number continuing to recite the sentences as before. The other ranks +did the same successively, till that which, at first, was the front, +became the rear; and the evolution continued, in the same manner, +till the last rank regained its first situation. They then began a +much quicker dance (though slow at first), and sung for about ten +minutes, when the whole body divided into two parts, retreated a +little, and then approached, forming a sort of circular figure, which +finished the dance; the drums being removed, and the chorus going off +the field at the same time.</p> + +<p>The second dance had only two drums, with forty men for a chorus; +and the dancers, or rather actors, consisted of two ranks, the +foremost having seventeen, and the other fifteen persons. Feenou was +at their head, or in the middle of the front rank, which is the +principal place in these cases. They danced and recited sentences, +with some very short intervals, for about half an hour, sometimes +quickly, sometimes more slowly, but with such a degree of exactness, +as if all the motions were made by one man, which did them great +credit. Near the close, the back rank divided, came round, and took +the place of the front, which, again resumed its situation, as in the +first dance; and when they finished, the drums and chorus, as before, +went off.</p> + +<p>Three drums (which, at least, took two, and sometimes three men to +carry them) were now brought in; and seventy men sat down as a chorus +to the third dance. This consisted of two ranks, of sixteen persons +each, with young Toobou at their head, who was richly ornamented with +a sort of garment covered with red feathers. These danced, sung, and +twirled the <i>pagge</i>, as before; but, in general, much quicker, +and performed so well, that they had the constant applauses of the +spectators. A motion that met with particular approbation, was one in +which they held the face aside, as if ashamed, and the <i>pagge</i> +before it. The back rank closed before the front one, and that again +resumed its place, as in the two former dances; but then they began +again, formed a triple row, divided, retreated to each end of the +area, and left the greatest part of the ground clear. At that +instant, two men entered very hastily, and exercised the clubs which +they use in battle. They did this, by first twirling them in their +hands, and making circular strokes before them with great force and +quickness; but so skilfully managed, that, though standing quite +close, they never interfered. They shifted their clubs from hand to +hand, with great dexterity; and, after continuing a little time, +kneeled, and made different motions, tossing the clubs up in the air, +which they caught as they fell; and then went off as hastily as they +entered. Their heads were covered with pieces of white cloth, tied at +the crown (almost like a night-cap) with a wreath of foliage round +the forehead; but they had only very small pieces of white cloth tied +about their waists; probably, that they might be cool, and free from +every encumbrance or weight. A person with a spear, dressed like the +former, then came in, and in the same hasty manner; looking about +eagerly, as if in search of somebody to throw it at. He then ran +hastily to one side of the crowd in the front, and put himself in a +threatening attitude, as if he meant to strike with his spear at one +of them, bending the knee a little, and trembling, as it were with +rage. He continued in this manner only a few seconds, when he moved +to the other side, and having stood in the same posture there, for +the same short time, retreated from the ground, as fast as when he +made his appearance. The dancers, who had divided into two parties, +kept repeating something slowly all this while: and now advanced, and +joined again, ending with universal applause. It should seem that +this dance was considered as one of their capital performances, if we +might judge from some of the principal people being engaged in it. +For one of the drums was beat by Futtafaihe, the brother of Poulaho, +another by Feenou, and the third, which did not belong to the chorus, +by Mareewagee himself, at the entrance of his hut.</p> + +<p>The last dance had forty men, and two drums, as a chorus. It +consisted of sixty men, who had not danced before, disposed in three +rows, having twenty-four in front. But, before they began, we were +entertained with a pretty long preliminary harangue, in which the +whole body made responses to a single person who spoke. They recited +sentences (perhaps verses) alternately with the chorus, and made many +motions with the <i>pagge</i>, in a very brisk mode, which were all +applauded with <i>mareeai!</i> and <i>fufogge!</i> words expressing +two different degrees of praise. They divided into two bodies, with +their backs to each other; formed again, shifted their ranks, as in +the other dances; divided and retreated, making room for two +champions, who exercised their clubs as before; and after them two +others; the dancers, all the time, reciting slowly in turn with the +chorus; after which they advanced and finished.</p> + +<p>These dances, if they can properly be called so, lasted from +eleven till near three o'clock; and though they were, doubtless, +intended, particularly, either in honour of us, or to shew a specimen +of their dexterity, vast numbers of their own people attended as +spectators. Their numbers could not be computed exactly, on account +of the inequality of the ground; but, by reckoning the inner circle, +and the number in depth, which was between twenty and thirty in many +places, we supposed that there must be near four thousand. At the +same time, there were round the trading place at the tent, and +straggling about, at least as many more; and some of us computed, +that, aft this time, there were no less than ten or twelve thousand +people in our neighbourhood; that is, within the compass of a quarter +of a mile; drawn together, for the most part, by mere curiosity.</p> + +<p>It is with regret I mention, that we could not understand what was +spoken, while we were able to see what was acted, in these +amusements. This, doubtless, would have afforded us much information, +as to the genius and customs of these people. It was observable, +that, though the spectators always approved of the various motions, +when well made, a great share of the pleasure they received seemed to +arise from the sentimental part, or what the performers delivered in +their speeches. However, the mere acting part, independently of the +sentences repeated, was well worth our notice, both with respect to +the extensive plan on which it was executed, and to the various +motions, as well as the exact unity, with which they were performed. +Neither pencil nor pen can describe the numerous actions and motions, +the singularity of which was not greater, than was the ease and +gracefulness with which they were performed.</p> + +<p>At night, we were entertained with the <i>bomai</i>, or night +dances, on a space before Feenou's temporary habitation. They lasted +about three hours; in which time we had about twelve of them +performed, much after the same manner as those at Hepaee. But, in +two, that were performed by women, a number of men came and formed a +circle within their's. And, in another, consisting of twenty-four +men, there were a number of motions with the hands, that we had not +seen before, and were highly applauded. The music was, also, once +changed, in the course of the night; and in one of the dances, Feenou +appeared at the head of fifty men who had performed at Hepaee, and he +was well dressed with linen, a large piece of gauze, and some little +pictures hung round his neck. But it was evident, after the +diversions were closed, that we had put these poor people, or rather +that they had put themselves, to much inconvenience. For being drawn +together on this uninhabited part of their island, numbers of them +were obliged to lie down and sleep under the bushes, by the side of a +tree, or of a canoe; nay, many either lay down in the open air, which +they are not fond of, or walked about all the night.</p> + +<p>The whole of this entertainment was conducted with far better +order, than could have been expected in so large an assembly. Amongst +such a multitude, there must be a number of ill-disposed people; and +we, hourly, experienced it. All our care and attention did not +prevent their plundering us, in every quarter; and that in the most +daring and insolent manner. There was hardly any thing that they did +not attempt to steal; and yet, as the crowd was always so great, I +would not allow the sentries to fire, lest the innocent should suffer +for the guilty. They once, at noon day, ventured to aim at taking an +anchor from off the Discovery's bows; and they would certainly have +succeeded, if the flook had not hooked one of the chain-plates in +lowering down the ship's side, from which they could not disengage it +by hand; and tackles were things they were unacquainted with. The +only act of violence they were guilty of, was the breaking the +shoulder-bone of one of our goats, so that she died soon after. This +loss fell upon themselves, as she was one of those that I intended to +leave upon the island; but of this, the person who did it was +ignorant.</p> + +<p>Early in the morning of the 18th, an incident happened, that +strongly marked one of their customs. A man got out of a canoe into +the quarter gallery of the Resolution, and stole from thence a pewter +bason. He was discovered, pursued, and brought alongside the ship. On +this occasion, three old women, who were in the canoe, made loud +lamentations over the prisoner, beating their breasts and faces in a +most violent manner, with the inside of their fists; and all this was +done without shedding a tear. This mode of expressing grief is what +occasions the mark which almost all this people bear on the face, +over the cheek-bones. The repeated blows which they inflict upon this +part, abrade the skin, and make even the blood flow out in a +considerable quantity; and when the wounds are recent, they look as +if a hollow circle had been burnt in. On many occasions, they +actually cut this part of the face with an instrument, in the same +manner as the people of Otaheite cut their heads.</p> + +<p>This day, I bestowed on Mareewagee some presents, in return for +those we had received from him the day before; and as the +entertainments which he had then exhibited for our amusement, called +upon us to make some exhibition in our way, I ordered the party of +marines to go through their exercise on the spot where his dances had +been performed; and, in the evening, played off some fire-works at +the same place. Poulaho, with all the principal chiefs, and a great +number of people, of all denominations, were present. The platoon +firing, which was executed tolerably well, seemed to give them +pleasure; but they were lost in astonishment when they beheld our +water-rockets. They paid but little attention to the fife and drum, +or French horns that played during the intervals. The king sat behind +every body, because no one is allowed to sit behind him; and, that +his view might not be obstructed, nobody sat immediately before him; +but a lane, as it were, was made by the people from him, quite down +to the space allotted for the fire-works.</p> + +<p>In expectation of this evening show, the circle of natives about +our tent being pretty large, they engaged, the greatest part of the +afternoon, in boxing and wrestling; the first of which exercises they +call <i>fangatooa</i>, and the second <i>foohoo</i>. When any of them +chooses to wrestle, he gets up from one side of the ring, and crosses +the ground in a sort of measured pace, clapping smartly on the elbow +joint of one arm, which is bent, and produces a hollow sound; that is +reckoned the challenge. If no person comes out from the opposite side +to engage him, he returns in the same manner, and sits down; but +sometimes stands clapping in the midst of the ground, to provoke some +one to come out. If an opponent appear, they come together with marks +of the greatest good-nature, generally smiling, and taking time to +adjust the piece of cloth which is fastened round the waist. They +then lay hold of each other by this girdle, with a hand on each side; +and he who succeeds in drawing his antagonist to him, immediately +tries to lift him upon his breast, and throw him upon his back; and +if he be able to turn round with him two or three times, in that +position, before he throws him, his dexterity never fails of +procuring plaudits from the spectators. If they be more equally +matched, they close soon, and endeavour to throw each other by +entwining their legs, or lifting each other from the ground; in which +struggles they shew a prodigious exertion of strength, every muscle, +as it were, being ready to burst with straining. When one is thrown, +he immediately quits the field, but the victor sits down for a few +seconds, then gets up, and goes to the side he came from, who +proclaim the victory aloud, in a sentence delivered slowly, and in a +musical cadence. After sitting a short space, he rises again and +challenges; when some-times several antagonists make their +appearance; but he has the privilege of choosing which of them he +pleases to wrestle with; and has, likewise, the preference of +challenging again, if he should throw his adversary, until he himself +be vanquished; and then the opposite side sing the song of victory in +favour of their champion. It also often happens, that five or six +rise from each side, and challenge together; in which case, it is +common to see three or four couple engaged on the field at once. But +it is astonishing to see what temper they preserve in this exercise; +for we observed no instances of their leaving the spot, with the +least displeasure in their countenances. When they find that they are +so equally matched as not to be likely to throw each other, they +leave off by mutual consent. And if the fall of one is not fair, or +if it does not appear very clearly who has had the advantage, both +sides sing the victory, and then they engage again. But no person, +who has been vanquished, can engage with his conqueror a second +time.</p> + +<p>The boxers advance side-ways, changing the side at every pace, +with one arm stretched fully out before, the other behind; and +holding a piece of cord in one hand, which they wrap firmly about it, +when they find an antagonist, or else have done so before they enter. +This, I imagine, they do, to prevent a dislocation of the hand or +fingers. Their blows are directed chiefly to the head; but sometimes +to the sides; and are dealt out with great activity. They shift +sides, and box equally well with both hands. But one of their +favourite and most dextrous blows, is, to turn round on their heel, +just as they have struck their antagonist, and to give him another +very smart one with the other hand backward.</p> + +<p>The boxing matches seldom last long; and the parties either leave +off together, or one acknowledges his being beat. But they never sing +the song of victory in these cases, unless one strikes his adversary +to the ground; which shews, that, of the two, wrestling is their most +approved diversion. Not only boys engage, in both the exercises, but +frequently little girls box very obstinately for a short time. In all +which cases, it doth not appear, that they ever consider it as the +smallest disgrace to be vanquished; and the person overcome sits +down, with as much indifference, as if he had never entered the +lists. Some of our people ventured to contend with them in both +exercises, but were always worsted; except in a few instances, where +it appeared, that the fear they were in of offending us, contributed +more to the victory, than the superiority of the person they +engaged.</p> + +<p>The cattle, which we had brought, and which were all on shore, +however carefully guarded, I was sensible, run no small risk, when I +considered the thievish disposition of many of the natives, and their +dexterity in appropriating to themselves, by stealth, what they saw +no prospect of obtaining by fair means. For this reason, I thought it +prudent to declare my intention of leaving behind me some of our +animals; and even to make a distribution of them previously to my +departure.</p> + +<p>With this view, in the evening of the 19th, I assembled all the +chiefs before our house, and my intended presents to them were marked +out. To Poulaho, the king, I gave a young English bull and cow; to +Mareewagee, a Cape ram, and two ewes; and to Feenou, a horse and a +mare. As my design, to make such a distribution, had been made known +the day before, most of the people in the neighbourhood were then +present. I instructed Omai to tell them, that there were no such +animals within many months sail of their island; that we had brought +them, for their use, from that immense distance, at a vast trouble +and expence; that, therefore, they must be careful not to kill any of +them, till they had multiplied to a numerous race; and, lastly, that +they and their children ought to remember, that they had received +them from the men of <i>Britane</i>. He also explained to them their +several uses, and what else was necessary for them to know, or rather +as far as he knew; for Omai was not very well versed in such things +himself. As I intended that the above presents should remain with the +other cattle, till we were ready to sail, I desired each of the +chiefs to send a man or two to look after their respective animals, +along with my people, in order that they might be better acquainted +with them, and with the manner of treating them. The king and Feenou +did so; but neither Mareewagee, nor any other person for him, took +the least notice of the sheep afterward; nor did old Toobou attend at +this meeting, though he was invited, and was in the neighbourhood. I +had meant to give him the goats, viz. a ram and two ewes; which, as +he was so indifferent about them, I added to the king's share.</p> + +<p>It soon appeared, that some were dissatisfied with this allotment +of our animals; for, early next morning, one of our kids, and two +turkey-cocks, were missing. I could not be so simple as to suppose, +that this was merely an accidental loss; and I was determined to have +them again. The first step I took was to seize on three canoes that +happened to be alongside the ships. I then went ashore, and, having +found the king, his brother, Feenou, and some other chiefs, in the +house that we occupied, I immediately put a guard over them, and gave +them to understand, that they must remain under restraint, till not +only the kid and the turkeys, but the other things that had been +stolen from us, at different times, were restored. They concealed, as +well as they could, their feelings, on finding themselves prisoners; +and, having assured me, that every thing should be restored, as I +desired, sat down to drink their <i>kava</i>, seemingly much at their +ease. It was not long before an axe, and an iron wedge, were brought +to me. In the mean time, some armed natives began to gather behind +the house; but, on a part of our guard marching against them, they +dispersed; and I advised the chiefs to give orders, that no more +should appear. Such orders were accordingly given by them, and they +were obeyed. On asking them to go aboard with me to dinner, they +readily consented. But some having afterward objected to the king's +going, he instantly rose up, and declared he would be the first man. +Accordingly we came on board. I kept them there till near four +o'clock, when I conducted them ashore; and, soon after, the kid, and +one of the turkey-cocks, were brought back. The other, they said, +should be restored the next morning. I believed this would happen, +and released both them and the canoes.</p> + +<p>After the chiefs had left us, I walked out with Omai, to observe +how the people about us fared; for this was the time of their meals. +I found that, in general, they were at short commons. Nor is this to +be wondered at, since most of the yams, and other provisions which +they brought with them, were sold to us; and they never thought of +returning to their own habitations, while they could find any sort of +subsistence in our neighbourhood. Our station was upon an +uncultivated point of land; so that there were none of the islanders, +who, properly, resided within half a mile of us. But, even at this +distance, the multitude of strangers being so great, one might have +expected, that every house would have been much crowded. It was quite +otherwise. The families residing there were as much left to +themselves, as if there had not been a supernumerary visitor near +them. All the strangers lived in little temporary sheds, or under +trees and bushes; and the cocoa-trees were stripped of their +branches, to erect habitations for the chiefs.</p> + +<p>In this walk we met with about half a dozen women, in one place, +at supper. Two of the company, I observed, being fed by the others, +on our asking the reason, they said <i>taboo mattee</i>. On farther +enquiry we found, that one of them had, two months before, washed the +dead corpse of a chief; and that, on this account, she was not to +handle any food for five months. The other had performed the same +office to the corpse of another person of inferior rank, and was now +under the same restriction; but not for so long a time. At another +place, hard by, we saw another woman fed; and we learnt, that she had +assisted in washing the corpse of the above-mentioned chief.</p> + +<p>Early the next morning, the king came on board, to invite me to an +entertainment, which he proposed to give the same day. He had already +been under the barber's hands; his head being all besmeared with red +pigment, in order to redden his hair, which was naturally of a +dark-brown colour. After breakfast, I attended him to the shore; and +we found his people very busy, in two places, in the front of our +area, fixing, in an upright and square position, thus [::], four very +long posts, near two feet from each other. The space between the +posts was afterward filled up with yams; and as they went on filling +it, they fastened pieces of sticks across, from post to post, at the +distance of about every four feet, to prevent the posts from +separating by the weight of the inclosed yams, and also to get up by. +When the yams had reached the top of the first posts, they fastened +others to them, and so continued till each pile was the height of +thirty feet, or upward. On the top of one, they placed two baked +hogs; and on the top of the other, a living one; and another they +tied by the legs, half-way up. It was matter of curiosity to observe, +with what facility and dispatch these two piles were raised. Had our +seamen been ordered to execute such a work, they would have sworn +that it could not be performed without carpenters; and the carpenters +would have called to their aid a dozen different sorts of tools, and +have expended, at least, a hundred weight of nails; and, after all, +it would have employed them as many days as it did these people +hours. But seamen, like most other amphibious animals, are always the +most helpless on land. After they had completed these two piles, they +made several other heaps of yams and bread-fruit on each side of the +area; to which were added a turtle, and a large quantity of excellent +fish. All this, with a piece of cloth, a mat, and some red feathers, +was the king's present to me; and he seemed to pique himself on +exceeding, as he really did, Feenou's liberality, which I experienced +at Hepaee.</p> + +<p>About one o'clock they began the <i>mai</i>, or dances; the first +of which was almost a copy of the first that was exhibited at +Mareewagee's entertainment. The second was conducted by Captain +Furneaux's Toobou, who, as we mentioned, had also danced there; and +in this, four or five women were introduced, who went through the +several parts with as much exactness as the men. Toward the end, the +performers divided to leave room for two champions, who exercised +their clubs, as described on a former occasion. And, in the third +dance, which was the last now presented, two more men, with their +clubs, displayed their dexterity. The dances were succeeded by +wrestling and boxing; and one man entered the lists with a sort of +club, made from the stem of a cocoa-leaf, which is firm and heavy; +but could find no antagonist to engage him at so rough a sport. At +night we had the <i>bomai</i> repeated; in which Poulaho himself +danced, dressed in English manufacture. But neither these, nor the +dances in the daytime, were so considerable, nor carried on with so +much spirit, as Feenou's, or Mareewagee's; and, therefore, there is +less occasion to be more particular in our description of them.</p> + +<p>In order to be present the whole time, I dined ashore. The king +sat down with us, but he neither ate nor drank. I found that this was +owing to the presence of a female, whom, at his desire, I had +admitted to the dining-party; and who, as we afterward understood, +had superior rank to himself. As soon as this great personage had +dined, she stepped up to the king, who put his hands to her feet, and +then she retired. He immediately dipped his fingers into a glass of +wine, and then received the obeisance of all her followers. This was +the single instance we ever observed of his paying this mark of +reverence to any person. At the king's desire, I ordered some +fire-works to be played off in the evening; but, unfortunately, being +damaged; this exhibition did not answer expectation.</p> + +<p>SECTION VIII.</p> + +<p><i>Some of the Officers plundered by the Natives.--A fishing +Party.--A Visit to Poulaho.--A Fiatooka described.--Observations on +the Country Entertainments at Poulaho's House.--His Mourning +Ceremony.--Of the Kava Plant, and the Manner of preparing the +Liquor.--Account of Onevy, a little Island.--One of the Natives +wounded by a Sentinel.--Messrs King and Anderson visit the Kings +Brother.--Their Entertainment.--Another Mourning Ceremony.--Manner of +passing the Night.--Remarks on the Country they passed +through.--Preparations made for Sailing.--An Eclipse of the Sun, +imperfectly observed.--Mr Anderson's Account of the Island, and its +Productions</i>.</p> + +<p>As no more entertainments were to be expected on either side, and +the curiosity of the populace was, by this time, pretty well +satisfied, on the day after Poulaho's <i>haiva</i>, most of them left +us. We still, however, had thieves about us; and, encouraged by the +negligence of our own people, we had continual instances of their +depredations.</p> + +<p>Some of the officers, belonging to both ships, who had made an +excursion into the interior parts of the island, without my leave, +and, indeed, without my knowledge, returned this evening, after an +absence of two days. They had taken with them their musquets, with +the necessary ammunition, and several small articles of the favourite +commodities; all which the natives had the dexterity to steal from +them in the course of their expedition. This affair was likely to be +attended with inconvenient consequences. For our plundered +travellers, upon their return, without consulting me, employed Omai +to complain to the king of the treatment they had met with. He, not +knowing what step I should take, and, from what had already happened, +fearing lest I might lay him again under restraint, went off early +the next morning. His example was followed by Feenou; so that we had +not a chief of any authority remaining in our neighbourhood. I was +very much displeased at this, and reprimanded Omai for having +presumed to meddle. This reprimand put him upon his mettle to bring +his friend Feenou hack; and he succeeded in the negociation, having +this powerful argument to urge, that he might depend upon my using no +violent measures to oblige the natives to restore what had been taken +from the gentlemen. Feenou, trusting to this declaration, returned +toward the evening; and, encouraged by the reception, Poulaho +favoured us with his company the day after. Both these chiefs, upon +this occasion, very justly observed to me, that, if any of my people, +at any time, wanted to go into the country, they ought to be +acquainted with it; in which case they would send proper people along +with them; and then they would be answerable for their safety. And I +am convinced, from experience, that, by taking this very reasonable +precaution, a man and his property may be as safe among these +islanders, as in other parts of the more civilized world. Though I +gave myself no trouble about the recovery of the things stolen upon +this occasion, most of them, through Feenou's interposition, were +recovered, except one musquet, and a few other articles of inferior +value. By this time, also, we had recovered the turkey-cock, and most +of the tools, and other matters, that had been stolen from our +workmen.</p> + +<p>On the 25th, two boats, which I had sent to look for a channel, by +which we might, most commodiously, get to sea, returned. The masters, +who commanded them, reported, that the channel to the north, by which +we came in, was highly dangerous, being full of coral rocks from one +side to the other; but that, to the eastward, there was a very good +channel, which, however, was very much contracted in one place by the +small islands, so that a leading wind would be requisite to get +through it; that is, a westerly wind, which, we had found, did not +often blow here. We had now recruited the ships with wood and water, +we had finished the repairs of our sails, and had little more to +expect from the inhabitants of the produce of their island. However, +as an eclipse of the sun was to happen upon the 5th of next month, I +resolved to defer sailing till that time had elapsed, in order to +have a chance of observing it.</p> + +<p>Having, therefore, some days of leisure before me, a party of us, +accompanied by Poulaho, set out, early next morning, in a boat for +Mooa, the village where he and the other great men usually reside. As +we rowed up the inlet, we met with fourteen canoes fishing in +company, in one of which was Poulaho's son. In each canoe was a +triangular net, extended between two poles; at the lower end of which +was a cod to receive and secure the fish. They had already caught +some fine mullets, and they put about a dozen into our boat. I +desired to see their method of fishing, which they readily complied +with. A shoal of fish was supposed to be upon one of the banks, which +they instantly inclosed in a long net like a seine, or set-net. This +the fishers, one getting into the water out of each boat, surrounded +with the triangular nets in their hands, with which they scooped the +fish out of the seine, or caught them as they attempted to leap over +it. They shewed us the whole process of this operation, (which seemed +to be a sure one,) by throwing in some of the fish they had already +caught; for, at this time, there happened to be none upon the bank +that was inclosed.</p> + +<p>Leaving the prince and his fishing party, we proceeded to the +bottom of the bay, and landed where we had done before, on our +fruitless errand to see Mareewagee. As soon as we got on shore, the +king desired Omai to tell me, that I need be under no apprehensions +about the boat, or any thing in her, for not a single article would +be touched by any one; and we afterward found this to be the case. We +were immediately conducted to one of Poulaho's houses not far off, +and near the public one, or <i>malaee</i>, in which we had been, when +we first visited Mooa. This, though pretty large, seemed to be his +private habitation, and was situated within a plantation. The king +took his seat at one end of the house, and the people who came to +visit him, sat down, as they arrived, in a semicircle at the other +end. The first thing done, was to prepare a bowl of <i>kava</i>, and +to order some yams to be baked for us. While these were getting +ready, some of us, accompanied by a few of the king's attendants, and +Omai as our interpreter, walked out to take a view of a +<i>fiatooka</i>, or burying-place, which we had observed to be almost +close by the house, and was much more extensive, and seemingly of +more consequence, than any we had seen at the other islands. We were +told that it belonged to the king. It consisted of three pretty large +houses, situated upon a rising ground, or rather just by the brink of +it, with a small one at some distance, all ranged longitudinally. The +middle house of the three first, was by much the largest, and placed +in a square, twenty-four paces by twenty-eight, raised about three +feet. The other houses were placed on little mounts, raised +artificially to the same height. The floors of these houses, as also +the tops of the mounts round them, were covered with loose, fine +pebbles, and the whole was inclosed by large flat stones[167] of hard +coral rock, properly hewn, placed on their edges, one of which stones +measured twelve feet in length, two in breadth, and above one in +thickness. One of the houses, contrary to what we had seen before, +was open on one side; and within it were two rude wooden busts of +men, one near the entrance, and the other farther in. On enquiring of +the natives, who had followed us to the ground, but durst not enter +here, What these images were intended for? they made us as sensible +as we could wish, that they were merely memorials of some chiefs who +had been buried there, and not the representations of any deity. Such +monuments, it should seem, are seldom raised; for these had, +probably, been erected several ages ago. We were told that the dead +had been buried in each of these houses, but no marks of this +appeared. In one of them, was the carved head of an Otaheite canoe, +which had been driven ashore on their coast, and deposited here. At +the foot of the rising ground, was a large area, or grass-plot, with +different trees planted about it, amongst which were several of those +called <i>etoa</i>, very large. These, as they resemble the cypress, +had a fine effect in such a place. There was, also, a row of low +palms near one of the houses, and behind it a ditch, in which lay a +great number of old baskets.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 167: The burying places of the chiefs at the +Caroline Islands, are also inclosed in this manner. See Lettres +Edifiantes & Curiouses, tom. xv. p. 309.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>After dinner, or rather after we had refreshed ourselves with some +provisions which we had brought with us from our ship, we made an +excursion into the country, taking a pretty large circuit, attended +by one of the king's ministers. Our train was not great, as he would +not suffer the rabble to follow us. He also obliged all those whom we +met upon our progress, to sit down till we had passed, which is a +mark of respect due only to their sovereigns. We found by far the +greatest part of the country cultivated, and planted with various +sorts of productions; and most of these plantations were fenced +round. Some spots, where plantations had been formerly, now produced +nothing, lying fallow; and there were places that had never been +touched, but lay in a state of nature, and yet even these were +useful, in affording them timber, as they were generally covered with +trees. We met with several large uninhabited houses, which, we were +told, belonged to the king. There were many public and well-beaten +roads, and abundance of foot-paths leading to every part of the +island. The roads being good, and the country level, travelling was +very easy. It is remarkable, that when we were on the most elevated +parts, at least a hundred feet above the level of the sea, we often +met with the same coral rock, which is found at the shore, projecting +above the surface, and perforated and cut into all those inequalities +which are usually seen in rocks that lie within the wash of the tide. +And yet these very spots, with hardly any soil upon them, were +covered with luxuriant vegetation. We were conducted to several +little pools, and to some springs of water; but, in general, they +were either stinking or brackish, though recommended to us by the +natives as excellent. The former were mostly inland, and the latter +near the shore of the bay, and below high-water mark, so that +tolerable water could be taken up from them, only when the tide was +out.</p> + +<p>When we returned from our walk, which was not till the dusk of the +evening, our supper was ready. It consisted of a baked hog, some +fish, and yams, all excellently well cooked, after the method of +these islands. As there was nothing to amuse us after supper, we +followed the custom of the country, and lay down to sleep, our beds +being mats spread upon the floor, and cloth to cover us. The king, +who had made himself very happy with some wine and brandy which we +had brought, slept in the same house, as well as several others of +the natives. Long before day-break, he and they all rose, and sat +conversing by moon-light. The conversation, as might well be guessed, +turned wholly upon us; the king entertaining his company with an +account of what he had seen, or remarked. As soon as it was day, they +dispersed, some one way, and some another; but it was not long before +they all returned, and, with them, several more of their +countrymen.</p> + +<p>They now began to prepare a bowl of <i>kava</i>; and, leaving them +so employed, I went to pay a visit to Toobou, Captain Furneaux's +friend, who had a house hard by, which, for size and neatness, was +exceeded by few in the place. As I had left the others, so I found +here a company preparing a morning draught. This chief made a present +to me of a living hog, a baked one, a quantity of yams, and a large +piece of cloth. When I returned to the king, I found him, and his +circle of attendants, drinking the second bowl of <i>kava</i>. That +being emptied, he told Omai, that he was going presently to perform a +mourning ceremony, called <i>Tooge</i>, on account of a son who had +been dead some time, and he desired us to accompany him. We were glad +of the opportunity, expecting to see somewhat new or curious.</p> + +<p>The first thing the chief did, was to step out of the house, +attended by two old women, and put on a new suit of clothes, or +rather a new piece of cloth, and, over it, an old ragged mat, that +might have served his great grandfather, on some such occasion. His +servants, or those who attended him, were all dressed in the same +manner, excepting that none of their mats could vie, in antiquity, +with that of their master. Thus equipped, we marched off, preceded by +about eight or ten persons, in all the above habits of ceremony, each +of them, besides, having a small green bough about his neck. Poulaho +held his bough in his hand till we drew near the place of rendezvous, +when he also put it about his neck. We now entered a small inclosure, +in which was a neat house, and we found one man sitting before it. As +the company entered, they pulled off the green branches from round +their necks, and threw them away. The king having first seated +himself, the others sat down before him, in the usual manner. The +circle increased, by others dropping in, to the number of a hundred +or upward, mostly old men, all dressed as above described. The +company being completely assembled, a large root of <i>kava</i>, +brought by one of the king's servants, was produced, and a bowl which +contained four or five gallons. Several persons now began to chew the +root, and this bowl was made brimful of liquor. While it was +preparing, others were employed in making drinking cups of plantain +leaves. The first cup that was filled, was presented to the king, and +he ordered it to be given to another person. The second was also +brought to him, which he drank, and the third was offered to me. +Afterward, as each cup was filled, the man who filled it, asked who +was to have it? Another then named the person; and to him it was +carried. As the bowl grew low, the man who distributed the liquor +seemed rather at a loss to whom cups of it should be next sent, and +frequently consulted those who sat near him. This mode of +distribution continued, while any liquor remained; and though not +half the company had a share, yet no one seemed dissatisfied. About +half a dozen cups served for all; and each, as it was emptied, was +thrown down upon the ground, where the servants picked it up, and +carried it to be filled again. During the whole time, the chief and +his circle sat as was usually the case, with a great deal of gravity, +hardly speaking a word to each other.</p> + +<p>We had long waited in expectation, each moment, of seeing the +mourning ceremony begin; when, soon after the <i>kava</i> was drank +out, to our great surprise and disappointment, they all rose up and +dispersed; and Poulaho told us, he was now ready to attend us to the +ships. If this was a mourning ceremony, it was a strange one. Perhaps +it was the second, third, or fourth mourning; or, which was not very +uncommon, Omai might have misunderstood what Poulaho said to him. +For, excepting the change of dress, and the putting the green bough +round their necks, nothing seemed to have passed at this meeting, but +what we saw them practise, too frequently, every day.</p> + +<p>[168]"We had seen the drinking of <i>kava</i> sometimes at the +other islands, but, by no means, so frequently as here, where it +seems to be the only forenoon employment of the principal people. The +<i>kava</i> is a species of pepper, which they cultivate for this +purpose, and esteem it a valuable article, taking great care to +defend the young plants from any injury; and it is commonly planted +about their houses. It seldom grows to more than a man's height, +though I have seen some plants almost double that. It branches +considerably, with large heart-shaped leaves, and jointed stalks. The +root is the only part that is used at the Friendly Islands, which, +being dug up, is given to the servants that attend, who, breaking it +in pieces, scrape the dirt off with a shell, or bit of stick, and +then each begins and chews his portion, which he spits into a piece +of plantain leaf. The person who is to prepare the liquor, collects +all these mouthfuls; and puts them into a large wooden dish, or bowl, +adding as much water as will make it of a proper strength. It is then +well mixed up with the hands, and some loose stuff, of which mats are +made, is thrown upon the surface, which intercepts the fibrous part, +and is wrung hard, to get as much liquid out from it, as is possible. +The manner of distributing it need not be repeated. The quantity +which is put into each cup is commonly about a quarter of a pint. The +immediate effect of this beverage is not perceptible on these people, +who use it so frequently; but on some of ours, who ventured to try +it, though so nastily prepared, it had the same power as spirits +have, in intoxicating them; or, rather, it produced that kind of +stupefaction, which is the consequence of using opium, or other +substances of that kind. It should be observed, at the same time, +that though these islanders have this liquor always fresh prepared, +and I have seen them drink it seven times before noon, it is, +nevertheless, so disagreeable, or, at least, seems so, that the +greatest part of them cannot swallow it without making wry faces, and +shuddering, afterward,"</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 168: The following account of <i>kava</i>, to +the end of this paragraph, is inserted from Mr Anderson's +journal.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>As soon as this mourning ceremony was over, we left Mooa, and set +out to return to the ships. While we rowed down the <i>lagoon</i>, or +inlet, we met with two canoes coming in from fishing. Poulaho ordered +them to be called alongside our boat, and took from them every fish +and shell they had got. He, afterward, stopped two other canoes, and +searched them, but they had nothing. Why this was done I cannot say, +for we had plenty provisions in the boat. Some of this fish he gave +to me, and his servants sold the rest on board the ship. As we +proceeded down the inlet, we overtook a large sailing canoe. Every +person on board her, that was upon his legs when we came up, sat down +till we had passed; even the man who steered, though he could not +manage the helm, except in a standing posture.</p> + +<p>Poulaho, and others, having informed me, that there was some +excellent water on Onevy, a little island, which lies about a league +off the mouth of the inlet, and on the north side of the eastern +channel, we landed there, in order to taste it. But I found it to be +as brackish as most that we had met with. This island is quite in a +natural state, being only frequented as a fishing place, and has +nearly the same productions as Palmerston's Island, with some +<i>etoa</i> trees. After leaving Onevy, where we dined, in our way to +the ship, we took a view of a curious coral rock, which seems to have +been thrown upon the reef where it stands. It is elevated about ten +or twelve feet above the surface of the sea that surrounds it. The +base it rests upon, is not above one-third of the circumference of +its projecting summit, which I judged to be about one hundred feet, +and is covered with <i>etoa</i> and <i>pandanus</i> trees.</p> + +<p>When we got on board the ship, I found that every thing had been +quiet during my absence, not a theft having been committed, of which +Feenou, and Futtafaihe, the king's brother, who had undertaken the +management of his countrymen, boasted not a little. This shews what +power the chiefs have, when they have the will to execute it; which +we were seldom to expect, since, whatever was stolen from us, +generally, if not always, was conveyed to them.</p> + +<p>The good conduct of the natives was of short duration; for, the +next day, six or eight of them assaulted some of our people, who were +sawing planks. They were fired upon by the sentry, and one was +supposed to be wounded, and three others taken. These I kept confined +till night, and did not dismiss them without punishment. After this, +they behaved with a little more circumspection, and gave us much less +trouble. This change of behaviour was certainly occasioned by the man +being wounded; for, before, they had only been told of the effect of +fire-arms, but now they had felt it. The repeated insolence of the +natives, had induced me to order the musquets of the sentries, to be +loaded with small shot, and to authorise them to fire on particular +occasions. I took it for granted, therefore, that this man had only +been wounded with small shot. But Mr King and Mr Anderson, in an +excursion into the country, met with him, and found indubitable marks +of his having been wounded, but not dangerously, with a musquet ball. +I never could find out how this musquet happened to be charged with +ball; and there were people enough ready to swear, that its contents +were only small shot.</p> + +<p>Mr Anderson's account of the excursion just mentioned, will fill +up an interval of two days, during which nothing of note happened at +the ships: "Mr King and I went, on the 30th, along with Futtafaihe, +as visitors to his house, which is at Mooa, very near that of his +brother Poulaho. A short time after we arrived, a pretty large hog +was killed; which is done by repeated strokes on the head. The hair +was then scraped off, very dexterously, with the sharp edge of pieces +of split bamboo, taking the entrails out at a large oval hole cut in +the belly, by the same simple instrument. Before this, they had +prepared an oven, which is a large hole dug in the earth, filled at +the bottom with stones, about the size of the fist; over which a fire +is made till they are red hot. They took some of these stones, wrapt +up in leaves of the bread-fruit tree, and filled the hog's belly, +stuffing in a quantity of leaves, to prevent their falling out, and +putting a plug of the same kind in the <i>anus</i>. The carcass was +then placed on some sticks laid across the stones, in a standing +posture, and covered with a great quantity of plantain leaves. After +which, they dug up the earth all round; and having thus effectually +closed the oven, the operation of baking required no farther +interference.</p> + +<p>"In the mean time we walked about the country, but met with +nothing remarkable, except a <i>fiatooka</i> of one house, standing +on an artificial mount, at least thirty feet high. A little on one +side of it, was a pretty large open area, and not far off, was a good +deal of uncultivated ground, which, on enquiring why it lay waste, +our guides seemed to say, belonged to the <i>fiatooka</i>, (which was +Poulaho's,) and was not, by any means, to be touched. There was also, +at no great distance, a number of <i>etoa</i> trees, on which clung +vast numbers of the large <i>ternate</i> bats, making a disagreeable +noise. We could not kill any, at this time, for want of musquets; but +some that were got at Annamooka, measured near three feet, when the +wings were extended. On our return to Futtafaihe's house, he ordered +the hog that had been dressed, to be produced, with several baskets +of baked yams, and some cocoa-nuts. But we found, that, instead of +his entertaining us, we were to entertain him, the property of the +feast being entirely transferred to us, as his guests, and we were to +dispose of it as we pleased. The same person who cleaned the hog in +the morning, now cut it up (but not before we desired him) in a very +dextrous manner, with a knife of split bamboo, dividing the several +parts, and hitting the joints, with a quickness and skill that +surprised us very much. The whole was set down before us, though at +least fifty pounds weight, until we took a small piece away, and +desired that they would share the rest amongst the people sitting +round. But it was not without a great many scruples they did that at +last, and then they asked, what particular persons they should give +it to. However, they were very well pleased, when they found that it +was not contrary to any custom of ours; some carrying off the portion +they had received, and others eating it upon the spot. It was with +great difficulty that we could prevail upon Futtafaihe himself to eat +a small bit."</p> + +<p>"After dinner, we went with him, and five or six people, his +attendants, toward the place where Poulaho's mourning ceremony was +transacted the last time we were at Mooa; but we did not enter the +inclosure. Every person who went with us, had the mat tied over his +cloth, and some leaves about the neck, as had been done on the former +occasion; and when we arrived at a large open boat-house, where a few +people were, they threw away their leaves, sat down before it, and +gave their cheeks a few gentle strokes with the fist; after which +they continued sitting, for about ten minutes, with a very grave +appearance, and then dispersed, without having spoken a single word. +This explained what Poulaho had mentioned about <i>Tooge</i>; though, +from the operation only lasting a few seconds, he had not been +observed to perform it. And this seems to be only a continuation of +the mourning ceremony, by way of condolence. For, upon enquiring, on +whose account it was now performed, we were told, that it was for a +chief who had died at Vavaoo some time ago; that they had practised +it ever since, and should continue to do so for a considerable time +longer."</p> + +<p>"In the evening, we had a pig, dressed as the hog, with yams and +cocoa-nuts, brought for supper; and Futtafaihe finding that we did +not like the scruples they had made before, to accept of any part of +the entertainment, asked us immediately to share it, and give it to +whom we pleased. When supper was over, abundance of cloth was brought +for us to sleep in, but we were a good deal disturbed, by a singular +instance of luxury, in which their principal men indulge themselves, +that of being beat while they are asleep. Two women sat by +Futtafaihe, and performed this operation, which is called <i>tooge +tooge</i>, by beating briskly on his body and legs, with both fists, +as on a drum, till he fell asleep, and continuing it the whole night, +with some short intervals. When once the person is asleep, they abate +a little in the strength and quickness of the beating, but resume it, +if they observe any appearance of his awaking. In the morning, we +found that Futtafaihe's women relieved each other, and went to sleep +by turns. In any other country, it would be supposed, that such a +practice would put an end to all rest, but here it certainly acts as +an opiate, and is a strong proof of what habit may effect. The noise +of this, however, was not the only thing that kept us awake; for the +people, who passed the night in the house, not only conversed amongst +each other frequently, as in the day, but all got up before it was +light, and made a hearty meal on fish and yams, which were brought to +them by a person, who seemed to know very well the appointed time for +this nocturnal refreshment."</p> + +<p>"Next morning, July 1, we set out with Futtafaihe, and walked down +the east side of the bay to the point. The country, all along this +side, is well cultivated, but, in general, not so much inclosed as at +Mooa; and amongst many other plantain fields that we passed, there +was one at least a mile long, which was in excellent order, every +tree growing with great vigour. We found, that, in travelling, +Futtafaihe exercised a power, though by no means wantonly, which +pointed out the great authority of such principal men; or is, +perhaps, only annexed to those of the royal family. For he sent to +one place for fish, to another for yams, and so on, at other places, +and all his orders were obeyed with the greatest readiness, as if he +had been absolute master of the people's property. On coming to the +point, the natives mentioned something of one, who, they said, had +been fired at by some of our people; and, upon our wishing to see +him, they conducted us to a house, where we found a man who had been +shot through the shoulder, but not dangerously, as the ball had +entered a little above the inner part of the collar-bone, and passed +out obliquely backward. We were sure, from the state of the wound, +that he was the person who had been fired at by one of the sentinels +three days before, though positive orders had been given, that none +of them should load their pieces with any thing but small shot. We +gave some directions to his friends how to manage the wound, to which +no application had been made; and they seemed pleased, when we told +them it would get well in a certain time. But, on our going away, +they asked us to send the wounded man some yams, and other things for +food, and, in such a manner, that we could not help thinking they +considered it to be our duty to support him till he should get +well."</p> + +<p>"In the evening we crossed the bay to our station, in a canoe, +which Futtafaihe had exercised his prerogative in procuring, by +calling to the first that passed by. He had also got a large hog at +this place, and brought a servant from his house with a bundle of +cloth, which he wanted us to take with us, as a present from him. But +the boat being small, we objected; and he ordered it to be brought +over to us the next day."</p> + +<p>I had prolonged my stay at this island, on account of the +approaching eclipse; but, on the 2d of July, on looking at the +micrometer belonging to the board of longitude, I found some of the +rack work broken, and the instrument useless till repaired, which +there was not time to do before it was intended to be used. Preparing +now for our departure, I got on board, this day, all the cattle, +poultry, and other animals, except such as were destined to remain. I +had designed to leave a turkey-cock and hen, but having now only two +of each undisposed of, one of the hens, through the ignorance of one +of my people, was strangled, and died upon the spot. I had brought +three turkey-hens to these islands. One was killed as +above-mentioned, and the other by an useless dog belonging to one of +the officers. These two accidents put it out of my power to leave a +pair here; and, at the same time, to carry the breed to Otaheite, for +which island they were originally intended. I was sorry, afterward, +that I did not give the preference to Tongataboo, as the present +would have been of more value there than at Otaheite; for the natives +of the former island, I am persuaded, would have taken more pains to +multiply the breed.</p> + +<p>The next day we took up our anchor, and moved the ships behind +Pangimodoo, that we might be ready to take the advantage of the first +favourable wind, to get through the narrows. The king, who was one of +our company this day at dinner, I observed, took particular notice of +the plates. This occasioned me to make him an offer of one, either of +pewter, or of earthenware. He chose the first; and then began to tell +us the several uses to which he intended to apply it. Two of them are +so extraordinary, that I cannot omit mentioning them. He said, that, +whenever he should have occasion to visit any of the other islands, +he would leave this plate behind him at Tongataboo, as a sort of +representative, in his absence, that the people might pay it the same +obeisance they do to himself in person. He was asked, what had been +usually employed for this purpose before he got this plate? and we +had the satisfaction of learning from him, that this singular honour +had hitherto been conferred on a wooden bowl in which he washed his +hands. The other extraordinary use to which he meant to apply it, in +the room of his wooden bowl, was to discover a thief. He said, that, +when any thing was stolen, and the thief could not be found out, the +people were all assembled together before him, when he washed his +hands in water in this vessel; after which it was cleaned, and then +the whole multitude advanced, one after another, and touched it in +the same manner as they touch his foot, when they pay him obeisance. +If the guilty person touched it, he died immediately upon the spot, +not by violence, but by the hand of Providence; and if any one +refused to touch it, his refusal was a clear proof that he was the +man.</p> + +<p>In the morning of the 5th, the day of the eclipse, the weather was +dark and cloudy, with showers of rain, so that we had little hopes of +an observation. About nine o'clock, the sun broke out at intervals +for about half an hour; after which it was totally obscured, till +within a minute or two of the beginning of the eclipse. We were all +at our telescopes, viz. Mr Bayly, Mr King, Captain Clerke, Mr Bligh, +and myself. I lost the observation, by not having a dark glass at +hand, suitable to the clouds that were continually passing over the +sun; and Mr Bligh had not got the sun into the field of his +telescope; so that the commencement of the eclipse was only observed +by the other three gentlemen; and by them, with an uncertainty of +several seconds, as follows:--</p> + +<p>H. M. S. By Mr Bayly, at 11 46 23 1/2 } Mr King, at 11 46 28 +}Apparent time. Capt. Clerke, at 11 47 5 }</p> + +<p>Mr Bayly and Mr King observed, with the achromatic telescopes, +belonging to the board of longitude, of equal magnifying powers; and +Captain Clerke observed with one of the reflectors. The sun appeared +at intervals, till about the middle of the eclipse, after which it +was seen no more during the day, so that the end could not be +observed. The disappointment was of little consequence, since the +longitude was more than sufficiently determined, independently of +this eclipse, by lunar observations, which will be mentioned +hereafter.</p> + +<p>As soon as we knew the eclipse to be over, we packed up the +instruments, took down the observatories, and sent every thing on +board that had not been already removed. As none of the natives had +taken the least notice or care of the three sheep allotted to +Mareewagee, I ordered them to be carried back to the ships. I was +apprehensive, that, if I had left them here, they run great risk of +being destroyed by dogs. That animal did not exist upon this island, +when I first visited it in 1773; but I now found they had got a good +many, partly from the breed then left by myself, and partly from +some, imported since that time, from an island not very remote, +called Feejee. The dogs, however, at present, had not found their way +into any of the Friendly Islands, except Tongataboo; and none but the +chiefs there had, as yet, got possession of any.</p> + +<p>Being now upon the eve of out departure from this island, I shall +add some particulars about it, and its productions, for which I am +indebted to Mr Anderson. And, having spent as many weeks there, as I +had done days,[169] when I visited it in 1773, the better +opportunities that now occurred, of gaining more accurate +information, and the skill of that gentleman, in directing his +enquiries, will, in some measure, supply the imperfection of my +former account of this island.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 169: From the 4th to the 7th of +October.]</blockquote> + +<p>"Amsterdam, Tongataboo, or (as the natives also very frequently +called it) Tonga, is about twenty leagues in circuit, somewhat +oblong, though by much broadest at the east end, and its greatest +length from east to west. The south shore, which I saw in 1773, is +straight, and consists of coral rocks, eight or ten feet high, +terminating perpendicularly, except in some places, where it is +interrupted by small sandy beaches, on which, at low water, a range +of black rocks may be seen. The west end is not above five or six +miles broad, but has a shore somewhat like that of the south side, +whereas the whole north side is environed with shoals and islands, +and the shore within them low and sandy. The east side or end is, +most probably, like the south, as the shore begins to assume a rocky +appearance toward the north-east point, though not above seven or +eight feet high.</p> + +<p>"The island may, with the greatest propriety, be called a low one, +as the trees on the west part, where we now lay at anchor, only +appeared; and the only eminent part, which can be seen from a ship, +is the south-east point, though many gently rising and declining +grounds are observable by one who is ashore. The general appearance +of the country does not afford that beautiful kind of landscape that +is produced from a variety of hills and valleys, lawns, rivulets, and +cascades; but, at the same time, it conveys to the spectator an idea +of the most exuberant fertility, whether we respect the places +improved by art, or those still in a natural state, both which yield +all their vegetable productions with the greatest vigour, and +perpetual verdure. At a distance, the surface seems entirely clothed +with trees of various sizes, some of which are very large. But, above +the rest, the tall cocoa-palms always raise their tufted heads, and +are far from being the smallest ornament to any country that produces +them. The <i>boogo</i>, which is a species of fig, with narrow +pointed leaves, is the largest sized tree of the island; and on the +uncultivated spots, especially toward the sea, the most common bushes +and small trees are the <i>pandanus</i>, several sorts of +<i>hibiscus</i>, the <i>faitanoo</i>, mentioned more than once in the +course of our voyage, and a few others. It ought also to be observed, +that though the materials for forming grand landscapes are wanting, +there are many of what might, at least, be called neat prospects, +about the cultivated grounds and dwelling-places, but more especially +about the <i>fiatookas</i>, where sometimes art, and sometimes +nature, has done much to please the eye.</p> + +<p>"From the situation of Tongataboo, toward the tropic, the climate +is more variable, than in countries farther within that line, though, +perhaps, that might be owing to the season of the year, which was now +the winter solstice. The winds are, for the most part, from some +point between south and east; and, when moderate, are commonly +attended with fine weather. When they blow fresher, the weather is +often cloudy, though open; and, in such cases, there is frequently +rain. The wind sometimes veers to the N.E., N.N.E, or even N.N.W., +but never lasts long, nor blows strong from thence, though it is +commonly accompanied by heavy rain, and close sultry weather. The +quick succession, of vegetables has been already mentioned; but I am +not certain that the changes of weather, by which it is brought +about, are considerable enough to make them perceptible to the +natives as to their method of life, or rather that they should be +very sensible of the different seasons. This, perhaps, may be +inferred from the state of their vegetable productions, which are +never so much affected, with respect to the foliage, as to shed that +all at once; for every leaf is succeeded by another as fast as it +falls, which causes that appearance of universal and continual spring +found here.</p> + +<p>"The basis of the island, as far as we know, is entirely a coral +rock, which is the only sort that presents itself on the shore. Nor +did we see the least appearance of any other stone, except a few +small blue pebbles strewed about the <i>fiatookas</i>; and the +smooth, solid black stone, something like the <i>lapis lydius</i>, of +which the natives make their hatchets. But these may, probably, have +been brought from other islands in the neighbourhood; for a piece of +slaty, iron-coloured stone was bought at one of them, which was never +seen here. Though the coral projects in many places above the +surface, the soil is, in general, of a considerable depth. In all +cultivated places, it is commonly of a loose, black colour, produced +seemingly, in a great measure, from the rotten vegetables that are +planted there. Underneath which is, very probably, a clayey +<i>stratum</i>; for a soil of that kind is often seen, both in the +low and in the rising grounds, but especially in several places +toward the shore, where it is of any height, and, when broken off, +appears sometimes of a reddish, though oftener of a brownish yellow +colour, and of a pretty stiff consistence. Where the shore is low, +the soil is commonly sandy, or rather composed of triturated coral, +which, however, yields bushes growing with great luxuriance, and is +sometimes planted, not unsuccessfully, by the natives.</p> + +<p>"Of cultivated fruits, the principal are plantains, of which they +have fifteen different sorts or varieties; breadfruit; two sorts of +fruit found at Otaheite, and known there under the names of +<i>jambu</i> and <i>geevee</i>; the latter a kind of plumb; and vast +numbers of shaddocks, which, however, are found as often in a natural +state, as planted.</p> + +<p>"The roots are yams, of which are two sorts; one black, and so +large, that it often weighs twenty or thirty pounds; the other white +and long, seldom weighing a pound; a large root called <i>kappe</i>; +one not unlike our white potatoes, called <i>mawhaha</i>; the +<i>talo</i>, or <i>coccos</i> of other places; and another named +<i>jeejee</i>.</p> + +<p>"Besides vast numbers of cocoa-nut trees, they have three other +sorts of palms, two of which are very scarce. One of them is called +<i>beeoo</i>, which grows almost as high as the cocoa-tree, has very +large leaves plaited like a fan, and clusters or bunches of globular +nuts, not larger than a small pistol ball, growing amongst the +branches, with a very hard kernel, which is sometimes eat. The other +is a kind of cabbage-tree, not distinguishable from the cocoa, but by +being rather thicker, and by having its leaves more ragged. It has a +cabbage three or four feet long; at the top of which are the leaves, +and at the bottom the fruit, which is scarcely two inches long, +resembling an oblong cocoa-nut, with an insipid tenacious kernel, +called, by the natives, <i>neeoogoola</i>, or red cocoa-nut, as it +assumes a reddish cast when ripe. The third sort is called <i>ongo +ongo</i>, and much commoner, being generally found planted about +their <i>fiatookas</i>. It seldom grows higher than five feet, though +sometimes to eight, and has a vast number of oval compressed nuts, as +large as a pippin, sticking immediately to the trunk, amongst the +leaves, which are not eat. There is plenty of excellent sugar-cane, +which is cultivated; gourds, bamboo, turmeric, and a species of fig, +about the size of a small cherry, called <i>matte</i>, which, though +wild, is sometimes eat. But the catalogue of uncultivated plants is +too large to be enumerated here. Besides the <i>pemphis decaspermum, +mallococca, maba</i>, and some other new genera, described by Dr +Forster,[170] there are a few more found here, which, perhaps, the +different seasons of the year, and his short stay, did not give him +an opportunity to take notice of. Although it did not appear, during +our longer stay, that above a fourth part of the trees, and other +plants, were in flower; a circumstance absolutely necessary to enable +one to distinguish the various kinds.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 170: See his <i>Characteres Generum +Plantarum</i>. Lond. 1776.]</blockquote> + +<p>"The only quadrupeds, besides hogs, are a few rats, and some dogs, +which are not natives of the place, but produced from some left by us +in 1773, and by others got from Feejee. Fowls, which are of a large +breed, are domesticated here.</p> + +<p>"Amongst the birds, are parrots, somewhat smaller than the common +grey ones, of an indifferent green on the back and wings, the tail +bluish, and the rest of a sooty or chocolate brown; parroquets, not +larger than a sparrow, of a fine yellowish green, with bright azure +on the crown of the head, and the throat and belly red; besides +another sort as large as a dove, with a blue crown and thighs, the +throat and under part of the head crimson, as also part of the belly, +and the rest a beautiful green.</p> + +<p>"There are owls about the size of our common sort, but of a finer +plumage; the cuckoos mentioned at Palmerston's Island; king-fishers, +about the size of a thrush, of a greenish blue, with a white ring +about the neck; and a bird of the thrush kind, almost as big, of a +dull green colour, with two yellow wattles at the base of the bill, +which is the only singing one we observed here; but it compensates a +good deal for the want of others by the strength and melody of its +notes, which fill the woods at dawn, in the evening, and at the +breaking up of bad weather.</p> + +<p>The other land-birds are rails, as large as a pigeon, of a +variegated grey colour, with a rusty neck; a black sort with red +eyes, not larger than a lark; large violet-coloured coots, with red +bald crowns; two sorts of fly-catchers; a very small swallow; and +three sorts of pigeons, one of which is <i>le ramier cuivre</i> of +Mons. Sonnerat;[171] another, half the size of the common sort, of a +light green on the back and wings, with a red forehead; and a third, +somewhat less, of a purple brown, but whitish underneath.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 171: <i>Voyage à la Nouvelle +Guinée</i>, Tab. CII.]</blockquote> + +<p>"Of water-fowl, and such as frequent the sea, are the ducks seen +at Annamooka, though scarce here; blue and white herons; tropic +birds; common noddies; white terns; a new species of a leaden colour, +with a black crest; a small bluish curlew; and a large plover, +spotted with yellow. Besides the large bats, mentioned before, there +is also the common sort.</p> + +<p>"The only noxious or disgusting animals of the reptile or insect +tribe, are sea-snakes, three feet long, with black and white circles +alternately, often found on shore; some scorpions, and +<i>centipedes</i>. There are fine green <i>guanoes</i>, a foot and a +half long; another brown and spotted lizard about a foot long; and +two other small sorts. Amongst the other insects are some beautiful +moths, butterflies, very large spiders, and others, making, in the +whole, about fifty different sorts.</p> + +<p>The sea abounds with fish, though the variety is less than might +be expected. The most frequent sorts are mullets; several sorts of +parrot-fish; silver-fish; old wives; some beautifully spotted soles; +leather-jackets; bonnetos, and albicores; besides the eels mentioned +at Palmerston's Island, some sharks, rays, pipe-fish, a sort of pike, +and some curious devil-fish.</p> + +<p>"The many reefs and shoals on the north side of the island, afford +shelter for an endless variety of shell-fish; amongst which are many +that are esteemed precious in Europe. Such as the true hammer oyster, +of which, however, none could be obtained entire; a large indentated +oyster, and several others, but none of the common sort, panamas, +cones, a sort of gigantic cockle, found also in the East Indies, +pearl shell oysters, and many others, several of which, I believe, +have been hitherto unknown to the most diligent enquirers after that +branch of natural history. There are likewise several sorts of +sea-eggs, and many very fine star-fish, besides a considerable +variety of corals, amongst which are two red sorts, the one most +elegantly branched, the other tubulous. And there is no less variety +amongst the crabs and cray-fish, which are very numerous. To which +may be added, several sorts of sponge, the sea-hare, +<i>holothuriae</i>, and the like."</p> + +<p>SECTION IX.</p> + +<p><i>A grand Solemnity, called Natche, in Honour of the King's Son, +performed.--The Processions and other Ceremonies, during the first +day, described.--The Manner of passing the Night at the King's +House.--Continuation of the Solemnity, the next Day.--Conjectures +about the Nature of it.--Departure from Tongataboo, and Arrival at +Eooa.--Account of that Island, and Transactions there</i>.</p> + +<p>We were now ready to sail, but the wind being easterly, we had not +sufficient day-light to turn through the narrows, either with the +morning, or with the evening flood, the one falling out too early, +and the other too late. So that, without a leading wind, we were +under a necessity of waiting two or three days.</p> + +<p>I took the opportunity of this delay to be present at a public +solemnity, to which the king had invited us, when we went last to +visit him, and which, he had informed us, was to be performed on the +8th. With a view to this, he and all the people of note quitted our +neighbourhood on the 7th, and repaired to Mooa, where the solemnity +was to be exhibited. A party of us followed them the next morning. We +understood, from what Poulaho had said to us, that his son and heir +was now to be initiated into certain privileges, amongst which was, +that of eating with his father, an honour he had not, as yet, been +admitted to.</p> + +<p>We arrived at Mooa about eight o'clock, and found the king, with a +large circle of attendants sitting before him, within an inclosure so +small and dirty, as to excite my wonder that any such could be found +in that neighbourhood. They were intent upon their usual morning +occupation, in preparing a bowl of <i>kava</i>. As this was no liquor +for us, we walked out to visit some of our friends, and to observe +what preparations might be making for the ceremony, which was soon to +begin. About ten o'clock, the people began to assemble in a large +area, which is before the <i>malaee</i>, or great house, to which we +had been conducted the first time we visited Mooa. At the end of a +road, that opens into this area, stood some men with spears and +clubs, who kept constantly reciting or chanting short sentences in a +mournful tone, which conveyed some idea of distress, and as if they +called for something. This was continued about an hour; and, in the +mean time, many people came down the road, each of them bringing a +yam, tied to the middle of a pole, which they laid down before the +persons who continued repeating the sentences. While this was going +on, the king and prince arrived, and seated themselves upon the area; +and we were desired to sit down by them, but to pull off our hats, +and to untie our hair. The bearers of the yams being all come in, +each pole was taken up between two men, who carried it over their +shoulders. After forming themselves into companies of ten or twelve +persons each, they marched across the place with a quick pace; each +company headed by a man bearing a club or spear, and guarded on the +right by several others armed with different weapons. A man carrying +a living pigeon on a perch, closed the rear, of the procession, in +which about two hundred and fifty persons walked.</p> + +<p>Omai was desired by me to ask the chief, to what place the yams +were to be thus carried with so much solemnity? but, as he seemed +unwilling to give us the information we wanted, two or three of us +followed the procession contrary to his inclination. We found that +they stopped before a <i>morai</i> or <i>fiatooka</i> of one house +standing upon a mount, which was hardly a quarter of a mile from the +place where they first assembled. Here we observed them depositing +the yams, and making them up into bundles; but for what purpose we +could not learn. And, as our presence seemed to give them uneasiness, +we left them and returned to Poulaho, who told us we might amuse +ourselves by walking about, as nothing would be done for some time. +The fear of losing any part of the ceremony prevented our being long +absent. When we returned to the king, he desired me to order the +boat's crew not to stir from the boat; for, as every thing would very +soon be <i>taboo</i>, if any of our people, or of their own, should +be found walking about, they would be knocked down with clubs, nay +<i>mateed</i>, that is, killed. He also acquainted us, that we could +not be present at the ceremony, but that we should be conducted to a +place, where we might see every thing that passed. Objections were +made to our dress. We were told, that, to qualify us to be present, +it was necessary that we should be naked as low as the breast, with +our hats off, and our hair untied. Omai offered to conform to these +requisites, and began to strip; other objections were then started; +so that the exclusion was given to him equally with ourselves.</p> + +<p>I did not much like this restriction, and, therefore, stole out to +see what might now be going forward. I found very few people +stirring, except those dressed to attend the ceremony; some of whom +had in their hands small poles about four feet long, and to the +underpart of these were fastened two or three other sticks; not +bigger than one's finger, and about six inches in length. These men +were going toward the <i>morai</i> just mentioned. I took the same +road, and was several times stopped by them, all crying out +<i>taboo</i>. However, I went forward without much regarding them, +till I came in sight of the <i>morai</i>, and of the people who were +sitting before it. I was now urged very strongly to go back, and, not +knowing what might be the consequence of a refusal, I complied. I had +observed, that the people who carried the poles passed this +<i>morai</i>, or what I may as well call temple; and guessing from +this circumstance that something was transacting beyond it, which +might be worth looking at, I had thoughts of advancing by making a +round for this purpose; but I was so closely watched by three men, +that I could not put my design in execution. In order to shake these +fellows off, I returned to the <i>malaee</i>, where I had left the +king, and from thence made an elopement a second time; but I +instantly met with the same three men, so that it seemed as if they +had been ordered to watch my motions. I paid no regard to what they +said or did, till I came within sight of the king's principal +<i>fiatooka</i> or <i>morai</i>, which I have already described, +before which a great number of men were sitting, being the same +persons whom I had just before seen pass by the other <i>morai</i>, +from which this was but a little distant. Observing that I could +watch the proceedings of this company from the king's plantation, I +repaired thither very much to the satisfaction of those who attended +me.</p> + +<p>As soon as I got in, I acquainted the gentlemen who had come with +me from the ships, with what I had seen; and we took a proper station +to watch the result. The number of people at the <i>fiatooka</i> +continued to increase for some time; and, at length, we could see +them quit their sitting-posture, and march off in procession. They +walked in pairs, one after another, every pair carrying between them +one of the small poles above-mentioned on their shoulders. We were +told, that the small pieces of sticks fastened to the poles were +yams; so that probably they were meant to represent this root +emblematically. The hindmost man of each couple, for the most part, +placed one of his hands to the middle of the pole, as if, without +this additional support, it were not strong enough to carry the +weight that hung to it, and under which they all seemed to bend as +they walked. This procession consisted of one hundred and eight +pairs, and all or most of them men of rank. They came close by the +fence behind which we stood, so that we had a full view of them.</p> + +<p>Having waited here till they had all passed, we then repaired to +Poulaho's house, and saw him going out. We could not be allowed to +follow him, but were forthwith conducted to the place allotted to us, +which was behind a fence, adjoining to the area of the fiatooka, +where the yams had been deposited in the forenoon. As we were not the +only people who were excluded from being publicly present at this +ceremony, but allowed to peep from behind the curtain, we had a good +deal of company; and I observed, that all the other inclosures round +the place were filled with people. And yet all imaginable care seemed +to be taken, that they should see as little as possible; for the +fences had not only been repaired that morning, but in many places +raised higher than common, so that the tallest man could not look +over them. To remedy this defect in our station; we took the liberty +to cut holes in the fence with our knives, and by this means we could +see pretty distinctly every thing that was transacting on the other +side.</p> + +<p>On our arrival at our station, we found two or three hundred +people sitting on the grass, near the end of the road that opened +into the area of the <i>morai</i>, and the number continually +increased by others joining them. At length, arrived a few men +carrying some small poles, and branches or leaves of the cocoa-nut +tree; and, upon their first appearance, an old man seated himself in +the road and, with his face toward them, pronounced a long oration in +a serious tone. He then retired back, and the others advancing to the +middle of the area, began to erect a small shed, employing for that +purpose the materials above-mentioned. When they had finished their +work, they all squatted down for a moment before it, then rose up, +and retired to the rest of the company. Soon after came Poulaho's +son, preceded by four or five men, and they seated themselves a +little aside from the shed, and rather behind it. After them, +appeared twelve or fourteen women of the first rank, walking slowly +in pairs, each pair carrying between them a narrow piece of white +cloth extended, about two or three yards in length. These marched up +to the prince, squatted down before him, and, having wrapped some of +the pieces of the cloth they had brought round his body, they rose +up, and retired in the same order to some distance on his left, and +there seated themselves. Poulaho himself soon made his appearance, +preceded by four men, who walked two and two abreast, and sat down on +his son's left hand, about twenty paces from him. The young prince +then quitting his first position, went and sat down under the shed +with, his attendants; and a considerable number more placed +themselves on the grass before this royal canopy. The prince himself +sat facing the people, with his back to the <i>morai</i>. This being +done, three companies, of ten or a dozen men in each, started up from +amongst the large crowd a little after each other, and running +hastily to the opposite side of the area, sat down for a few seconds; +after which they returned in the same manner to their former +stations. To them succeeded two men, each of whom held a small green +branch in his hand, who got up and approached the prince, sitting +down for a few seconds three different times as they advanced; and +then, turning their backs, retired in the same manner, inclining +their branches to each other as they sat. In a little time, two more +repeated this ceremony.</p> + +<p>The grand procession which I had seen march off from the other +<i>morai</i>, now began to come in. To judge of the circuit they had +made from the time they had been absent, it must have been pretty +large. As they entered the area, they marched up to the right of the +shed, and, having prostrated themselves on the grass, deposited their +pretended burthens (the poles above-mentioned), and faced round to +the prince. They then rose up, and retired in the same order, closing +their hands, which they held before them, with the most serious +aspect, and seated themselves along the front of the area. During all +the time that this numerous band were coming in, and depositing their +poles, three men who sat under the shed with the prince, continued +pronouncing separate sentences in a melancholy tone. After this, a +profound silence ensued for a little time, and then a man, who sat in +the front of the area, began an oration (or prayer), during which, at +several different times, he went and broke one of the poles, which +had been brought in by those who had walked in procession. When he +had ended, the people sitting before the shed separated, to make a +lane, through which the prince and his attendants passed, and the +assembly broke up.</p> + +<p>Some of our party, satisfied with what they had already seen, now +returned to the ships; but I, and two or three more of the officers, +remained at Mooa to see the conclusion of the solemnity, which was +not to be till the next day, being desirous of omitting no +opportunity, which might afford any information about the religious +or the political institutions of this people. The small sticks or +poles, which had been brought into the area by those who walked in +procession, being left lying on the ground, after the crowd had +dispersed, I went and examined them. I found, that to the middle of +each, two or three small sticks were tied, as has been related. Yet +we had been repeatedly told by the natives, who stood near us, that +they were young yams, insomuch that some of our gentlemen believed +them, rather than their own eyes. As I had the demonstration of my +senses to satisfy me, that they were not real yams, it is clear, that +we ought to have understood them, that they were only the artificial +representations of these roots.</p> + +<p>Our supper was got ready about seven o'clock. It consisted of fish +and yams. We might have had pork also, but we did not choose to kill +a large hog, which the king had given to us for that purpose. He +supped with us, and drank pretty freely of brandy and water, so that +he went to bed with a sufficient dose. We passed the night in the +same house with him and several of his attendants.</p> + +<p>About one or two o'clock in the morning they waked, and conversed +for about an hour, and then went to sleep again. All, but Poulaho +himself, rose at day-break, and went, I know not whither. Soon after +a woman, one of those who generally attended upon the chief, came in, +and enquired where he was. I pointed him out to her, and she +immediately sat down by him, and began the same operation, which Mr +Anderson had seen practised upon Futtafaihe, tapping of beating +gently, with her clinched fists, on his thighs. This, instead of +prolonging his sleep, as was intended, had the contrary effect; +however, though he awaked, he continued to lie down.</p> + +<p>Omai and I now went to visit the prince, who had parted from us +early in the evening. For he did not lodge with the king, but in +apartments of his own, or at least such as had been allotted to him +at some distance from his father's house. We found him with a circle +of boys or youths about his own age, sitting before him, and an old +woman and an old man, who seemed to have the care of him, sitting +behind. There were others, both men and women, employed about their +necessary affairs in different departments, who probably belonged to +his household.</p> + +<p>From the prince we returned to the king. By this time he had got +up, and had a crowded circle before him, composed chiefly of old men. +While a large bowl of <i>kava</i> was preparing, a baked hog and +yarns, smoking hot, were brought in; the greatest part of which fell +to our share, and was very acceptable to the boat's crew; for these +people eat very little in a morning, especially the +<i>kava</i>-drinkers. I afterward walked out, and visited several +other chiefs, and found that all of them were taking their morning +draught, or had already taken it. Returning to the king, I found him +asleep in a small retired hut, with two women tapping on his breech. +About eleven o'clock he arose again, and then some fish and yams, +which tasted as if they had been stewed in cocoa-nut milk, were +brought to him. Of these he eat a large portion, and lay down once +more to sleep. I now left him, and carried to the prince a present of +cloth, beads, and other articles, which I had brought with me from +the ship for the purpose. There was a sufficient quantity of cloth to +make him a complete suit, and he was immediately decked out with it. +Proud of his dress, he first went to shew himself to his father, and +then conducted me to his mother, with whom were about ten or a dozen +other women of a respectable appearance. Here the prince changed his +apparel, and made me a present of two pieces of the cloth +manufactured in the island. By this time it was past noon, when, by +appointment, I repaired to the palace to dinner. Several of our +gentlemen had returned this morning from the ships, and we were all +invited to the feast, which was presently served up, and consisted of +two pigs and yams. I roused the drowsy monarch to partake of what he +had provided for our entertainment. In the mean time, two mullets, +and some shellfish, were brought to him, as I supposed, for his +separate portion. But he joined it to our fare, sat down with us, and +made a hearty meal.</p> + +<p>When dinner was over, we were told that the ceremony would soon +begin, and were strictly enjoined not to walk out. I had resolved, +however, to peep no longer from behind the curtain, but to mix with +the actors themselves, if possible. With this view, I stole out from +the plantation, and walked toward the <i>morai</i>, the scene of the +solemnity. I was several times desired to go back by people whom I +met, but I paid no regard to them, and they suffered me to pass on. +When I arrived at the <i>morai</i>, I found a number of men seated on +the side of the area, on each side of the road that leads up to it. A +few were sitting on the opposite side of the area, and two men in the +middle of it, with their, faces turned to the <i>morai</i>. When I +got into the midst of the first company, I was desired to sit down, +which I accordingly did. Where I sat, there were lying a number of +small bundles or parcels, composed of cocoa-nut leaves, and tied to +sticks made into the form of hand-barrows. All the information I +could get about them was, that they were <i>taboo</i>. Our number +kept continually increasing, every one coming from the same quarter. +From time to time, one or another of the company turned himself to +those who were coming to join us, and made a short speech, in which I +could remark that the word <i>arekee</i>, that is, king, was +generally mentioned. One man said something that produced bursts of +hearty laughter from all the crowd; others of the speakers met with +public applause. I was several times desired to leave the place, and, +at last, when they found that I would not stir, after some seeming +consultation, they applied to me to uncover my shoulders as theirs +were. With this request I complied, and then they seemed to be no +longer uneasy at my presence.</p> + +<p>I sat a full hour, without any thing more going forward, beside +what I have mentioned. At length the prince, the women, and the king, +all came in, as they had done the day before. The prince being placed +under the shed, after his father's arrival, two men, each carrying a +piece of mat, came repeating something seriously, and put them about +him. The assembled people now began their operations; and first, +three companies ran backward and forward across the area, as +described in the account of the proceedings of the former day. Soon +after, the two men, who sat in the middle of the area, made a short +speech or prayer, and then the whole body, amongst whom I had my +place, started up, and ran and seated themselves before the shed +under which the prince, and three or four men, were sitting. I was +now partly under the management of one of the company, who seemed +very assiduous to serve me. By his means, I was placed in such a +situation, that if I had been allowed to make use of my eyes, nothing +that passed could have escaped me. But it was necessary to sit with +down-cast looks, and demure as maids.</p> + +<p>Soon after the procession came in, as on the day before; each two +persons bearing on their shoulders a pole, round the middle of which, +a cocoa-nut leaf was plaited. These were deposited with ceremonies +similar to those observed on the preceding day. This first procession +was followed by a second; the men composing which, brought baskets, +such as are usually employed by this people to carry provisions in, +and made of palm leaves. These were followed, by a third procession, +in which were brought different kinds of small fish, each fixed at +the end of a forked stick. The baskets were carried up to an old man, +whom I took to be the chief priest, and who sat on the prince's right +hand, without the shed. He held each in his hand, while he made a +short speech or prayer, then laid it down, and called for another, +repeating the same words as before; and thus he went through the +whole number of baskets. The fish were presented, one by one, on the +forked sticks, as they came in, to two men, who sat on the left, and +who, till now, held green branches in their hands. The first fish +they laid down on their right, and the second on their left. When the +third was presented, a stout-looking man, who sat behind the other +two, reached his arm over between them, and made a snatch at it; as +also did the other two at the very same time. Thus they seemed to +contend for every fish that was presented; but as there were two +hands against one, besides the advantage of situation, the man behind +got nothing but pieces; for he never quitted his bold, till the fish +was torn out of his hand, and what little remained in it he shook out +behind him. The others laid what they got on the right and left +alternately. At length, either by accident or design, the man behind +got possession of a whole fish, without either of the other two so +much as touching it. At this the word <i>mareeai</i>, which signifies +<i>very good</i> or <i>well done</i>, was uttered in a low voice +throughout the whole crowd. It seemed that he had performed now all +that was expected from him, for he made no attempt upon the few fish +that came after. These fish, as also the baskets, were all delivered, +by the persons who brought them in, sitting; and, in the same order +and manner, the small poles, which the first procession carried, had +been laid upon the ground.</p> + +<p>The last procession being closed, there was some speaking or +praying by different persons. Then, on some signal being given, we +all started up, ran several paces to the left, and sat down with our +backs to the prince, and the few who remained with him; I was desired +not to look behind me. However, neither this injunction nor the +remembrance of Lot's wife, discouraged me from facing about. I now +saw that the prince had turned his face to the <i>morai</i>. But this +last movement had brought so many people between him and me, that I +could not perceive what was doing. I was afterward assured, that, at +this very time, the prince was admitted to the high honour of eating +with his father, which, till now, had never been permitted to him; a +piece of roasted yam being presented to each of them for this +purpose; This was the more probable, as we had been told before-hand, +that this was to happen during the solemnity, and as all the people +turned their backs to them at this time, which they always do when +their monarch eats.</p> + +<p>After some little time, we all faced about, and formed a +semicircle before the prince, leaving a large open space between us. +Presently there appeared some men coming toward us, two and two, +bearing large sticks or poles upon their shoulders, making a noise +that might be called singing, and waving their hands as they +advanced. When they had got close up to us, they made a shew of +walking very fast, without proceeding a single step. Immediately +after, three or four men started up from the crowd, with large sticks +in their hands, who ran toward those newcomers. The latter instantly +threw down the poles from their shoulders, and scampered off; and the +others attacked the poles, and, having beat them most unmercifully, +returned to their places. As the pole-bearers ran off, they gave the +challenge that is usual here in wrestling; and, not long after, a +number of stout fellows came from the same quarter, repeating the +challenge as they advanced. These were opposed by a party who came +from the opposite side almost at the same instant. The two parties +paraded about the area for a few minutes, and then retired, each to +their own side. After this, there were wrestling and boxing-matches +for about half an hour. Then two men seated themselves before the +prince, and made speeches, addressed, as I thought, entirely to him. +With this the solemnity ended, and the whole assembly broke up.</p> + +<p>I now went and examined the several baskets which had been +presented; a curiosity that I was not allowed before to indulge, +because every thing was then <i>taboo</i>. But the solemnity being +now over, they became simply what I found them to be, empty baskets. +So that, whatever they were supposed to contain, was emblematically +represented. And so, indeed, was every other thing which had been +brought in procession, except the fish.</p> + +<p>We endeavoured in vain to find out the meaning, not only of the +ceremony in general, which is called <i>Natche</i>, but of its +different parts. We seldom got any other answer to our enquiries, but +<i>taboo</i>, a word which, I have before observed, is applied to +many other things. But as the prince was evidently the principal +person concerned in it, and as we had been told by the king ten days +before the celebration of the <i>Natche</i>, that the people would +bring in yams for him and his son to eat together, and as he even +described some part of the ceremony, we concluded, from what he had +then said, and from what we now saw, that an oath of allegiance, if I +may so express myself, or solemn promise, was on this occasion made +to the prince, as the immediate successor to the regal dignity, to +stand by him, and to furnish him with the several articles that were +here emblematically represented. This seems the more probable, as all +the principal people of the island, whom we had ever seen, assisted +in the processions. But, be this as it may, the whole was conducted +with a great deal of mysterious solemnity; and that there was a +mixture of religion in the institution was evident, not only from the +place where it was performed, but from the manner of performing it. +Our dress and deportment had never been called in question upon any +former occasion whatever. Now, it was expected that we should be +uncovered as low as the waist; that our hair should be loose, and +flowing over our shoulders; that we should, like themselves, sit +cross-legged; and, at times, in the most humble posture, with +down-cast eyes, and hands locked together; all which requisites were +most devoutly observed by the whole assembly. And, lastly, every one +was excluded from the solemnity; but the principal people, and those +who assisted in the celebration. All these circumstances were to me a +sufficient testimony, that, upon this occasion, they consider +themselves as acting under the immediate inspection of a Supreme +Being;</p> + +<p>The present <i>Natche</i> may be considered, from the above +account of it, as merely figurative. For the small quantity of yams, +which we saw the first day, could not be intended as a general +contribution; and, indeed, we were given to understand, that they +were a portion consecrated to the <i>Otooa</i>, or Divinity. But we +were informed, that, in about three months, there would be performed, +on the same account, a far more important and grander solemnity; on +which occasion, not only the tribute of Tongataboo, but that of +Hepaee, Vavaoo, and of all the other islands; would be brought to the +chief, and confirmed more awfully, by sacrificing ten human victims +from amongst the inferior sort of people. A horrid solemnity indeed! +and which is a most significant instance of the influence of gloomy +and ignorant superstition, over the minds of one of the most +benevolent and humane nations upon earth. On enquiring into the +reasons of so barbarous a practice, they only said, that it was a +necessary part of the <i>Natche</i>, and that, if they omitted it, +the Deity would certainly destroy their king.</p> + +<p>Before the assembly broke up, the day was far spent; and as we +were at some distance from the ships, and had an intricate navigation +to go through, we were in haste to set out from Mooa. When I took +leave of Poulaho, he pressed me much to stay till the next day, to be +present at a funeral ceremony. The wife of Mareewagee, who was +mother-in-law to the king, had lately died, and her corpse had, on +account of the <i>Natche</i>, been carried on board a canoe that lay +in the <i>lagoon</i>. Poulaho told me, that, as soon as he had paid +the last offices to her, he would attend me to Eooa, but, if I did +not wait, he would follow me thither. I understood at the same time, +that, if it had not been for the death of this woman, most of the +chiefs would have accompanied us to that island, where, it seems, all +of them have possessions. I would gladly have waited to see this +ceremony also, had not the tide been now favourable for the ships to +get through the narrows. The wind besides, which, for several days +past, had been very boisterous, was now moderate and settled, and to +have lost this opportunity, might have detained us a fortnight +longer. But what was decisive against my waiting, we understood that +the funeral ceremonies would last five days, which was too long a +time, as the ships lay in such a situation, that I could not get to +sea at pleasure. I, however, assured the king, that, if we did not +sail, I should certainly visit him again the next day. And so we all +took leave of him, and set out for the ships, where we arrived about +eight o'clock in the evening.</p> + +<p>I had forgot to mention, that Omai was present at this second +day's ceremony as well as myself, but we were not together, nor did I +know that he was there, till it was almost over. He afterward told +me, that, as soon as the king saw that I had stolen out from the +plantation, he sent several people, one after another, to desire me +to come back. Probably, these messengers were not admitted to the +place where I was, for I saw nothing of them. At last, intelligence +was brought to the chief, that I had actually stripped, in conformity +to their custom; and then he told Omai, that he might be present +also, if he would comply with all necessary forms. Omai had no +objection, as nothing was required of him, but to conform to the +custom of his own country. Accordingly, he was furnished with a +proper dress, and appeared at the ceremony as one of the natives. It +is likely, that one reason of our being excluded at first, was an +apprehension, that we would not submit to the requisites to qualify +us to assist.</p> + +<p>While I was attending the <i>Natche</i> at Mooa, I ordered the +horses, bull and cow, and goats, to be brought thither, thinking that +they would be safer there, under the eyes of the chiefs, than at a +place that would be, in a manner, deserted, the moment after our +departure. Besides the above-mentioned animals, we left with our +friends here, a young boar, and three young sows, of the English +breed. They were exceedingly desirous of them, judging, no doubt, +that they would greatly improve their own breed, which is rather +small. Feenou also got from us two rabbits, a buck and a doe; and, +before we sailed, we were told that young ones had been already +produced. If the cattle succeed, of which I make no doubt, it will be +a vast acquisition to these islands; and as Tongataboo is a fine +level country, the horses cannot but be useful.</p> + +<p>On the 10th, at eight o'clock in the morning, we weighed anchor, +and, with a steady gale at S.E., turned through the channel, between +the small isles called Makkahaa and Monooafai, it being much wider +than the channel between the last-mentioned island and Pangimodoo. +The flood set strong in our favour, till we were the length of the +channel leading up to the <i>lagoon</i>, where the flood from the +eastward meets that from the west. This, together with the indraught +of the <i>lagoon</i>, and of the shoals before it, causeth strong +ripplings and whirlpools. To add to these dangers, the depth of water +in the channel exceeds the length of a cable; so that there is no +anchorage, except close to the rocks, where we meet with forty and +forty-five fathoms, over a bottom of dark sand. But then, here, a +ship would be exposed to the whirlpools. This frustrated the design +which I had formed, of coming to an anchor as soon as we were through +the narrows, and of making an excursion to see the funeral. I chose +rather to lose that ceremony, than to leave the ships in a situation +in which I did not think them safe. We continued to ply to windward, +between the two tides, without either gaining or losing an inch, till +near high water, when, by a favourable slant, we got into the eastern +tide's influence. We expected, there, to find the ebb to run strong +to the eastward in our favour, but it proved so inconsiderable, that, +at any other time, it would not have been noticed. This informed us, +that most of the water which flows into the <i>lagoon</i>, comes from +the N.W., and returns the same way. About five in the afternoon, +finding that we could not get to sea before it was dark, I came to an +anchor, under the shore of Tongataboo, in forty-five fathoms water, +and about two cables length from the reef, that runs along that side +of the island. The Discovery dropped anchor under our stern; but +before the anchor took hold, she drove off the bank, and did not +recover it till after midnight.</p> + +<p>We remained at this station till eleven o'clock the next day, when +we weighed, and plyed to the eastward. But it was ten at night before +we weathered the east end of the island, and were enabled to stretch +away for Middleburgh, or Eooa, (as it is called by the inhabitants,) +where we anchored, at eight o'clock in the next morning, in forty +fathoms water, over a bottom of sand, interspersed with coral rocks; +the extremes of the island extending from N. 40° E., to S. +22° W.; the high land of Eooa, S. 45° E.; and Tongataboo, +from N. 70° W., to N. 19° W., distant about half a mile from +the shore, being nearly the same place where I had my station in +1773, and then named by me, <i>English Road</i>.</p> + +<p>We had no sooner anchored, than Taoofa, the chief, and several +other natives, visited as on board, and seemed to rejoice much at our +arrival. This Taoofa[172] had been my <i>Tayo</i>, when I was here, +during my last voyage; consequently, we were not strangers to each +other. In a little time, I went ashore with him, in search of fresh +water, the procuring of which was the chief object that brought me to +Eooa. I had been told at Tongataboo, that there was here a stream, +running from the hills into the sea; but this was not the case now. I +was first conducted to a brackish spring, between low and high water +mark, amongst rocks, in the cove where we landed, and where no one +would ever have thought of looking for what we wanted. However, I +believe the water of this spring might be good, were it possible to +take it up before the tide mixes with it. Finding that we did not +like this, our friends took us a little way into the island, where, +in a deep chasm, we found very good water; which, at the expence of +some time and trouble, might be conveyed down to the shore, by means +of spouts or troughs, that could be made with plantain leaves, and +the stem of the tree. But, rather than to undertake that tedious +task, I resolved to rest contented with the supply the ships had got +at Tongataboo.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 172: In the account of Captain Cook's former +voyage, he calls the only chief he then met with, at this place, +<i>Tioony</i>.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>Before I returned on board, I set on foot a trade for hogs and +yams. Of the former, we could procure but few; but of the latter, +plenty. I put ashore, at this island, the ram and two ewes, of the +Cape of Good Hope breed of sheep, entrusting them to the care of +Taoofa, who seemed proud of his charge. It was fortunate, perhaps, +that Mareewagee, to whom I had given them, as before mentioned, +slighted the present. Eooa not having, as yet, got any dogs upon it, +seems to be a properer place than Tongataboo for the rearing of +sheep.</p> + +<p>As we lay at anchor, this island bore a very different aspect from +any we had lately seen, and formed a most beautiful landscape. It is +higher than any we had passed since leaving New Zealand, (as Kao may +justly be reckoned an immense rock,) and from its top, which is +almost flat, declines very gently toward the sea. As the other isles +of this cluster are level, the eye can discover nothing but the trees +that cover them; but here the land, rising gently upward, presents us +with an extensive prospect, where groves of trees are only +interspersed at irregular distances, in beautiful disorder, and the +rest covered with grass. Near the shore, again, it is quite shaded +with various trees, amongst which are the habitations of the natives; +and to the right of our station, was one of the most extensive groves +of cocoa-palms we had ever seen.</p> + +<p>The 13th, in the afternoon, a party of us made an excursion to the +highest part of the island, which was a little to the right of our +ships, in order to have a full view of the country. About half way +up, we crossed a deep valley, the bottom and sides of which, though +composed of hardly any thing but coral rock, were clothed with trees. +We were now about two or three hundred feet above the level of the +sea, and yet, even here, the coral was perforated into all the holes +and inequalities which usually diversify the surface of this +substance within the reach of the tide. Indeed, we found the same +coral till we began to approach the summits of the highest hills; and +it was remarkable, that these were chiefly composed of a yellowish, +soft, sandy stone. The soil there, is, in general, a reddish clay, +which, in many places, seemed to be very deep. On the most elevated +part of the whole island, we found a round platform, or mount of +earth, supported by a wall of coral stones; to bring which to such a +height, must have cost much labour. Our guides told us, that this +mount had been erected by order of their chief; and that they, +sometimes, meet there to drink/<i>kava</i>. They called it +<i>etchee</i>; by which name, an erection which we had seen at +Tongataboo, as already mentioned, was distinguished. Not many paces +from it, was a spring, of excellent water; and, about a mile lower +down, a running stream, which, we were told, found its way to the sea +when the rains were copious. We also met with water in many little +holes; and, no doubt, great plenty might be found by digging.</p> + +<p>From the elevation to which we had ascended, we had a full view of +the whole island, except a part of the south point. The S.E. side, +from which the highest hills we were now upon, are not far distant, +rises with very great inequalities, immediately from the sea, so that +the plains and meadows, of which there are here some of great extent, +lie all on the N.W. side; and as they are adorned with tufts of +trees, intermixed with plantations, they form a very beautiful +landscape in every point of view. While I was surveying this +delightful prospect, I could not help flattering myself with the +pleasing idea, that some future navigator may, from the same station, +behold these meadows stocked with cattle, brought to these islands by +the ships of England; and that the completion of this single +benevolent purpose, independently of all other considerations, would +sufficiently mark to posterity, that our voyages had not been useless +to the general interests of humanity. Besides the plants common on +the other neighbouring islands, we found, on the height, a species of +<i>acrosticum, melastoma</i>, and fern tree, with a few other ferns +and plants not common lower down.</p> + +<p>Our guides informed us, that all, or most of the land, on this +island, belonged to the great chiefs of Tongataboo, and that the +inhabitants were only tenants or vassals to them. Indeed, this seemed +to be the case at all the other neighbouring isles, except Annamooka, +where there were some chiefs, who seemed to act with some kind of +independence. Omai, who was a great favourite with Feenou, and these +people in general, was tempted with the offer of being made chief of +this island, if he would have staid amongst them; and it is not clear +to me, that he would not have been glad to stay, if the scheme had +met with my approbation. I own I did disapprove of it, but not +because I thought that Omai would do better for himself in his own +native isle.</p> + +<p>On returning from my country expedition, we were informed that a +party of the natives had, in the circle where our people traded, +struck one of their own countrymen with a club, which laid bare, or +as others said, fractured his skull, and then broke his thigh with +the same, when our men interposed. He had no signs of life when +carried to a neighbouring house, but afterward recovered a little. On +my asking the reason of so severe a treatment, we were informed, that +he had been discovered in a situation rather indelicate, with a woman +who was <i>taboo'd</i>. We, however, understood, that she was no +otherwise <i>taboo'd</i>, than by belonging to another person, and +rather superior in rank to her gallant. From this circumstance we had +an opportunity of observing how these people treat such infidelities. +But the female sinner has, by far, the smaller share of punishment +for her misdemeanor, as they told us that she would only receive a +slight beating.</p> + +<p>The next morning, I planted a pine-apple, and sowed the seeds of +melons and other vegetables, in the chief's plantation. I had some +encouragement, indeed, to flatter myself, that my endeavours of this +kind would not be fruitless; for, this day, there was served up at my +dinner, a dish of turnips, being the produce of the seeds I had left +here during my last voyage.</p> + +<p>I had fixed upon the 15th for sailing, till Taoofa pressed me to +stay a day or two longer, to receive a present he had prepared for +me. This reason, and the daily expectation of seeing some of our +friends from Tongataboo, induced me to defer my departure.</p> + +<p>Accordingly, the next day I received the chiefs present, +consisting of two small heaps of yams, and some fruit, which seemed +to be collected by a kind of contribution, as at the other isles. On +this occasion, most of the people of the island had assembled at the +place; and, as we had experienced on such numerous meetings amongst +their neighbours, gave us not a little trouble to prevent them from +pilfering whatever they could lay their hands upon. We were +entertained with cudgelling, wrestling, and boxing-matches; and, in +the latter, both male and female combatants exhibited. It was +intended to have finished the shew with the <i>bomai</i>, or night +dance, but an accident either put a total stop to it, or, at least, +prevented any of us from staying ashore to see it. One of my people, +walking a very little way, was surrounded by twenty or thirty of the +natives, who knocked him down, and stripped him of every thing he had +on his back. On hearing of this, I immediately seized two canoes, and +a large hog, and insisted on Taoofa's causing the clothes to be +restored, and on the offenders being delivered up to me. The chief +seemed much concerned at what had happened, and forthwith took the +necessary steps to satisfy me. This affair so alarmed the assembled +people, that most of them fled. However, when they found that I took +no other measures to revenge the insult, they returned. It was not +long before one of the offenders was delivered up to me, and a shirt +and a pair of trowsers restored. The remainder of the stolen goods +not coming in before night, I was under a necessity of leaving them +to go aboard; for the sea run so high, that it was with the greatest +difficulty the boats could get out of the creek with day-light, much +less in the dark.</p> + +<p>The next morning I landed again, having provided myself with a +present for Taoofa, in return for what he had given me. As it was +early, there were but few people at the landing-place, and those few +not without their fears. But on my desiring Omai to assure them that +we meant no harm; and, in confirmation of this assurance, having +restored the canoes and released the offender, whom they had +delivered up to me, they resumed their usual gaiety; and presently a +large circle was formed, in which the chief, and all the principal +men of the island, took their places. The remainder of the clothes +were now brought in; but as they had been torn off the man's back by +pieces, they were not worth carrying on board. Taoofa, on receiving +my present, shared it with three or four other chiefs, keeping only a +small part for himself. This present exceeded their expectation so +greatly, that one of their chiefs, a venerable old man, told me, that +they did not deserve it, considering how little they had given to me, +and the ill treatment one of my people had met with. I remained with +them till they had finished their bowl of <i>kava</i>; and having +then paid for the hog, which I had taken the day before, returned on +board, with Taoofa, and one of Poulaho's servants, by whom I sent, as +a parting mark of my esteem and regard for that chief, a piece of bar +iron, being as valuable a present as any I could make to him.</p> + +<p>Soon after, we weighed, and with a light breeze at S.E., stood out +to sea; and then Tafooa, and a few other natives, that were in the +ship, left us. On heaving up the anchor, we found that the cable had +suffered considerably by the rocks; so that the bottom, in this road, +is not to be depended upon. Besides this, we experienced, that a +prodigious swell rolls in there from the S.W.</p> + +<p>We had not been long under sail, before we observed a sailing +canoe coming from Tongataboo, and entering the creek before which we +had anchored. Same hours after, a small canoe, conducted by four men, +came off to us. For, as we had but little wind, we were still at no +great distance front the land. These men told us, that the sailing +canoe, which we had seen arrive from Tongataboo, had brought orders +to the people of Eooa, to furnish us with a certain number of hogs; +and that, in two days, the king and other chiefs, would be with us. +They, therefore, desired we would return to our former station. There +was no reason to doubt the truth of what these men told us. Two of +them had actually come from Tongataboo in the sailing canoe; and they +had no view in coming off to us, but to give this intelligence. +However, as we were now clear of the land, it was not a sufficient +inducement to bring me back, especially as we had already on board a +stock of fresh provisions, sufficient, in all probability, to last +during our passage to Otaheite. Besides Taoofa's present, we had got +a good quantity of yams at Eooa, in exchange chiefly for small nails. +Our supply of hogs was also considerably increased there; though, +doubtless, we should have got many more, if the chiefs of Tongataboo +had been with us, whose property they mostly were. At the approach of +night, these men finding that we would not return, left us; as also +some others who had come off in two canoes, with a few cocoa-nuts and +shaddocks, to exchange them for what they could get; the eagerness of +these people to get into their possession more of our commodities, +inducing them to follow the ships out to sea, and to continue their +intercourse with us to the last moment.</p> + +<p>SECTION X.</p> + +<p><i>Advantages derived from visiting the Friendly Islands.--Best +Articles for Traffic.--Refreshments that may be procured.--The Number +of the Islands, and their Names.--Keppel's and Boscawen's Islands +belong to them.--Account of Vavaoo--Of Hamoa--Of Feejee.--Voyages of +the Natives in their Canoes.--Difficulty of procuring exact +Information.--Persons of the Inhabitants of both Sexes.--Their +Colour.--Diseases.--Their general Character.--Manner of wearing their +Hair.--Of puncturing their Bodies.--Their Clothing and +Ornaments.--Personal Cleanliness</i>.</p> + +<p>Thus we took leave of the Friendly Islands and their inhabitants, +after a stay of between two and three months, during which time, we +lived together in the most cordial friendship. Some accidental +differences, it is true, now and then happened, owing to their great +propensity to thieving; but too often encouraged by the negligence of +our own people. But these differences were never attended with any +fatal consequences, to prevent which, all my measures were directed; +and I believe few on board our ships left our friends here without +some regret. The time employed amongst them was not thrown away. We +expended very little of our sea provisions, subsisting, in general, +upon the produce of the islands, while we staid, and carrying away +with us a quantity of refreshments sufficient to last till our +arrival at another station, where we could depend upon a fresh +supply. I was not sorry, besides, to have had an opportunity of +bettering the condition of these good people, by leaving the useful +animals before-mentioned among them; and, at the same time, those +designed for Otaheite, received fresh strength in the pastures of +Tongataboo. Upon the whole, therefore, the advantages we received by +touching here were very great; and I had the additional satisfaction +to reflect, that they were received, without retarding one moment, +the prosecution of the great object of our voyage; the season for +proceeding to the north, being, as has been already observed, lost, +before I took the resolution of bearing away for these islands.</p> + +<p>But besides the immediate advantages, which both the natives of +the Friendly Islands and ourselves received by this visit, future +navigators from Europe, if any such should ever tread our steps, will +profit by the knowledge I acquired of the geography of this part of +the Pacific Ocean; and the more philosophical reader, who loves to +view human nature in new situations, and to speculate on singular, +but faithful representations of the persons, the customs, the arts, +the religion, the government, and the language of uncultivated man, +in remote and fresh-discovered quarters of the globe, will perhaps +find matter of amusement, if not of instruction, in the information +which I have been enabled to convey to him, concerning the +inhabitants of this Archipelago. I shall suspend my narrative of the +progress of the voyage, while I faithfully relate what I had +opportunities of collecting on these several topics.</p> + +<p>We found by our experience, that the best articles for traffic at +these islands, are iron tools in general. Axes and hatchets, nails, +from the largest spike down to tenpenny ones, rasps, files, and +knives, are much sought after. Red cloth, and linen, both white and +coloured, looking-glasses and beads are also in estimation; but of +the latter those that are blue are preferred to all others, and white +ones are thought the least valuable. A string of large blue beads +would at any time purchase a hog. But it must be observed, that such +articles as are merely ornaments, may be highly esteemed at one time, +and not so at another. When we first arrived at Annamooka, the people +there would hardly take them in exchange even for fruit; but when +Feenou came, this great man set the fashion, and brought them into +vogue, till they rose in their value to what I have just +mentioned.</p> + +<p>In return for the favourite commodities which I have enumerated, +all the refreshments may be procured that the islands produce. These +are, hogs, fowls, fish, yams, breadfruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, +sugar-cane, and, in general, every such supply as can be met with at +Otaheite, or any of the Society Islands. The yams of the Friendly +Islands are excellent, and, when grown to perfection, keep very well +at sea. But their pork, bread-fruit, and plantains, though far from +despicable, are nevertheless much inferior in quality to the same +articles at Otaheite, and in its neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>Good water, which ships on long voyages stand so much in need of, +is scarce at these islands. It may be found, it is true, on them all; +but still either in too inconsiderable quantities, or in situations +too inconvenient, to serve the purposes of navigators. However, as +the islands afford plenty of provisions, and particularly of +cocoa-nuts, ships may make a tolerable shift with such water as is to +be got; and if one is not over nice, there will be no want. While we +lay at anchor under Kotoo, on our return from Hepaee, some people +from Kao informed us, that there was a stream of water there, which, +pouring down from the mountain, runs into the sea on the S.W. side of +the island; that is, on, the side that faces Toofoa, another island +remarkable for its height, as also for having a considerable volcano +in it, which, as has been already mentioned, burnt violently all the +time that we were in its neighbourhood. It may be worth while for +future navigators to attend to this intelligence about the stream of +water at Kao, especially as we learned that there was anchorage on +that part of the coast. The black stone, of which the natives of the +Friendly Islands make their hatchets and other tools, we were +informed, is the production of Toofoa.</p> + +<p>Under the denomination of Friendly Islands, we must include, not +only the group at Hepaee which I visited, but also all those islands +that have been discovered nearly under the same meridian to the +north, as well as some others that have never been seen hitherto by +any European navigators, but are under the dominion of Tongataboo, +which, though not the largest, is the capital and seat of +government.</p> + +<p>According to the information that we received there, this +archipelago is very extensive. Above one hundred and fifty islands +were reckoned up to us by the natives, who made use of bits of leaves +to ascertain their number; and Mr Anderson, with his usual diligence, +even procured all their names. Fifteen of them are said to be high or +hilly, such, as Toofoa and Eooa, and thirty-five of them large. Of +these, only three were seen this voyage; Hepaee, (which is considered +by the natives as one island,) Tongataboo, and Eooa: Of the size of +the unexplored thirty-two, nothing more can be mentioned, but that +they must be all larger than Annamooka, which those from whom we had +our information ranked amongst the smaller isles. Some, or indeed +several of this latter denomination, are mere spots without +inhabitants. But it must be left to future navigators to introduce +into the geography of this part of the South Pacific Ocean the exact +situation and size of near a hundred more islands in this +neighbourhood, which we had not an opportunity to explore, and whose +existence we only learnt from the testimony of our friends as +above-mentioned. On their authority the following list of them was +made, and it may serve as a ground-work for farther +investigation.</p> + +<p><i>Names of the Friendly Islands, and others, in that +Neighbourhood, mentioned by the Inhabitants of Anamooka, Hepaee, and +Tongataboo</i>.[173]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 173: Those islands which the natives +represented as large ones, are distinguished in +Italics.]</blockquote> + +<pre> + Komooefeeva, Noogoofaeeou, Novababoo, + Kollalona, Koreemou, Golabbe, + Felongaboonga, Failemaia, Vagaeetoo, + Kovereetoa, Koweeka, Gowakka, + Fonogooeatta, Konookoonama, Goofoo, + Modooanoogoo Kooonoogoo, Mafanna, + noogoo Geenageena, Kolloooa, + Tongooa, Kowourogoheefo, Tabanna, + Koooa, Kottejeea, Motooha, + Fenooa eeka, Kokabba, Looakabba, + Vavaoo Boloa, Toofanaetollo, + Koloa, Toofagga, Toofanaelaa, + Fafeene, Loogoobahanga, Kogoopoloo, + Taoonga, Taoola, Havaeeeeke, + Kobakeemotoo, Maneeneeta, Tootooeela, + Kongahoonoho, Fonooaooma, Manooka, + Komalla, Fonooonneonne, Leshainga, + Konoababoo, Wegaffa, Pappataia, + Konnetalle, Fooamotoo, Loubatta, + Komongoraffa, Fonooalaiee, Oloo, + Kotoolooa, Tattahoi, Takounove, + Kologobeele, Latte, Kapaoo, + Kollokolahee, Neuafo, Kovooeea, + Matageefaia, Feejee, Kongaireekee; + Mallajee, Oowaia, Tafeedoowaia, + Mallalahee, Kongaiarahoi, Hamoa, + Gonoogoolaiee, Kotoobooo, Neeootabootaboo, + Toonabai, Komotte, Fotoona, + Konnevy, Komoarra, Vytooboo, + Konnevao, Kolaiva, Lotooma, + Moggodoo, Kofoona, Toggelao, + Looamoggo, Konnagillelaivoo, Talava. +</pre> + +<p>I have not the least doubt that Prince William's Islands, +discovered and so named by Tasman, are included in the foregoing +list. For while we lay at Hapaee, one of the natives told me, that +three or four days sail from thence to the N.W., there was a cluster +of small islands, consisting of upwards of forty. This situation +corresponds very well with that assigned in the accounts we have of +Tasman's voyage, to his Prince William's Islands.[174]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 174: Tasman saw eighteen or twenty of these +small islands, every one of which was surrounded with sands, shoals, +and rocks. They are also called in some charts, Heemskirk's Banks. +See Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages to the South Pacific Ocean, +vol. ii. p. 38, and Campbell's edition of Harris's, vol. i. p. +325.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>We have also very good authority to believe that Keppel's and +Boscawen's Island, two of Captain Wallis's discoveries in 1765, are +comprehended in our list; and that they are not only well known to +these people, but are under the same sovereign. The following +information seemed to me decisive as to this: Upon my enquiring one +day of Poulaho, the king, in what manner the inhabitants of +Tongataboo had acquired the knowledge of iron, and from what quarter +they had procured a small iron tool which I had seen amongst them +when I first visited their island, during my former voyage, he +informed me, that they had received this iron from an island which he +called Neeootabootaboo. Carrying my enquiries further, I then desired +to know whether he had ever been informed from whom the people of +Neeootabootaboo had got it. I found him perfectly acquainted with its +history. He said that one of those islanders sold a club for five +nails, to a ship which had touched there, and that these five nails +afterward were sent to Tongataboo. He added, that this was the first +iron known amongst them, so that what Tasman left of that metal must +have been worn out, and forgot long ago. I was very particular in my +enquiries about the situation, size, and form of the island; +expressing my desire to know when this ship had touched there, how +long she staid, and whether any more were in company. The leading +facts appeared to be fresh in his memory. He said that there was but +one ship; that she did not come to an anchor, but left the island +after her boat had been on shore. And from many circumstances which +he mentioned, It could not be many years since this had happened. +According to his information, there are two islands near each other, +which he himself had been at. The one he described as high and +peaked, like Kao, and he called it Kootahee; the other, where the +people of the ship landed, called Neeootabootaboo, he represented as +much lower. He added, that the natives of both are the same sort of +people with those of Tongataboo, built their canoes in the same +manner, that their islands had hogs and fowls, and in general the +same vegetable productions. The ship so pointedly referred to in this +conversation, could be no other than the Dolphin; the only single +ship from Europe, as far as we have ever learned, that had touched of +late years at any island in this part of the Pacific Ocean, prior to +my former visit of the Friendly Islands.[175]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 175: See Captain Wallis's Voyage in this +Collection, vol. xii. Captain Wallis calls both these islands high +ones. But the superior height of one of them may be inferred, from +his saying, that it appears like a sugar-loaf. This strongly marks +its resemblance to Kao. From comparing Poulaho's intelligence to +Captain Cook, with Captain Wallis's account, it seems to be past all +doubt that Boscawen's Island is our Kotahee, and Keppel's Island our +Neeootabootaboo. The last is one of the large islands marked in the +foregoing list. The reader, who has been already apprized of the +variations of our people in writing down what the natives pronounced, +will hardly doubt that Kottejeea and Kootahee are the +same.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>But the most considerable islands in this neighbourhood that we +now heard of, (and we heard a great deal about them,) are Hamoa, +Vavaoo, and Feejee. Each of these was represented to us as larger +than Tongataboo. No European that we know of, has, as yet, seen any +of them. Tasman, indeed, lays down in his chart an island nearly in +the situation where, I suppose Vavaoo to be, that is about the +latitude of 91°.[176] But then that island is there marked as a +very small one, whereas Vavaoo, according to the united testimony of +all our friends at Tongataboo, exceeds the size of their own island, +and has high mountains, I should certainly have visited it, and have +accompanied Feenou from Hapaee, if he had not then discouraged me, by +representing it to be very inconsiderable, and without any harbour. +But Poulaho, the king, afterward assured me that it was a large +island; and that it not only produced every thing in common with +Tongataboo, but had the peculiar advantage of possessing several +streams of fresh water, with as good a harbour as that which we found +at his capital island. He offered to attend me if I would visit it; +adding, that if I did not find every thing agreeing with his +representation, I might kill him. I had not the least doubt of the +truth of his intelligence; and was satisfied that Feenou, from some +interested view, attempted to deceive me.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 176: Neither Dalrymple nor Campbell, in their +accounts of Tasman's voyage, take any particular notice of his having +seen such an island. The chart here referred to by Captain Cook, is +probably Mr Dalrymple's, in his Collection of Voyages, where Tasman's +track is marked accurately; and several very small spots of land are +laid down in the situation here mentioned.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>Hamoa, which is also under the dominion of Tongataboo, lies two +days sail N.W. from Vavaoo; it was described to me as the largest of +all their islands, as affording harbours and good water, and as +producing in abundance every article of refreshment found at the +places we visited. Poulaho himself frequently resides there. It +should seem that the people of this island are in high estimation at +Tongataboo; for we were told that some of the songs and dances with +which we were entertained, had been copied from theirs; and we saw +some houses said to be built after their fashion. Mr Anderson, always +inquisitive about such matters, learnt the three following words of +the dialect of Hamoa;</p> + +<pre> + <i>Tamolao</i>,[177] a chief man. + <i>Tamaety</i>, a chief woman. + <i>Solle</i>, a common man. +</pre> + +<p>Feejee, as we were told, lies three days sail from Tongataboo, in +the direction of N.W. by W. It was described to us as a high, but +very fruitful island, abounding with hogs, dogs, fowls, and all the +kinds of fruit and roots that are found in any of the others, and as +much larger than Tongataboo; to the dominion of which, as was +represented, to us, it is not subject, as the other islands of this +archipelago are. On the contrary, Feejee and Tongataboo frequently +make war upon each other. And it appeared from several circumstances, +that the inhabitants of the latter are much afraid of this enemy. +They used to express their sense of their own inferiority to the +Feejee men by bending the body forward, and covering the face with +their hands. And it is no wonder that they should be under this +dread; for those of Feejee are formidable on account of the dexterity +with which they use their bows and slings, but much more so on +account of the savage practice to which they are addicted, like those +of New Zealand, of eating their enemies whom they kill in battle. We +were satisfied that this was not a misrepresentation; for we met with +several Feejee people at Tongataboo, and, on enquiring of them, they +did not deny the charge.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 177: In two or three preceding notes, extracts +have been made from the Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses, as marking a +strong resemblance between some of the customs of the inhabitants of +the Caroline Islands, and those which Captain Cook describes as +prevailing at an immense distance, in the islands which he visited in +the South Pacific Ocean. Possibly, however, the presumption arising +from this resemblance, that all these islands were peopled by the +same nation, or tribe, may be resisted, under the plausible pretence, +that customs very similar prevail amongst very distant people, +without inferring any other common source, besides the general +principles of human nature, the same in all ages, and every part of +the globe. The reader, perhaps, will not think this pretence +applicable to the matter before us, if he attends to the following +very obvious distinction: Those customs which have their foundation +in wants that are common to the whole human species, and which are +confined to the contrivance of means to relieve those wants, may well +be supposed to bear a strong resemblance, without warranting the +conclusion, that they who use them have copied each other, or have +derived them from one common source; human sagacity being the same +every where, and the means adapted to the relief of any particular +natural want, especially in countries similarly uncultivated, being +but few. Thus the most distant tribes, as widely separated as the +Kamtschadales are from the Brazilians, may produce their fire by +rubbing two sticks upon each other, without giving us the least +foundation for supposing, that either of them imitated the other, or +derived the invention from a source of instruction common to both. +But this seems not to be the case, with regard to those customs to +which no general principle of human nature has given birth, and which +have their establishment solely from the endless varieties of local +whim and national fashion. Of this latter kind, those customs +obviously are, that belong both to the North and to the South Pacific +Islands, from which we would infer, that they were originally one +nation; and the men of Mangeea, and the men of the New Philippines, +who pay their respects to a person whom they mean to honour, by +rubbing his hand over their faces, bid fair to have learnt their mode +of salutation in the same school. But if this observation should not +have removed the doubts of the sceptical refiner, probably he will +hardly venture to persist in denying the identity of race, contended +for in the present instance, when he shall observe, that, to the +proof drawn from affinity of customs, we have it in our power to add +that most unexceptionable one, drawn from affinity of language. +<i>Tamoloa</i>, we now know, is the word used at Hamoa, one of the +Friendly Islands, to signify a chief: And whoever looks into the +Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses, will see this is the very name by +which the inhabitants of the Caroline Islands distinguish their +principal men. We have, in two preceding notes, inserted passages +from Father Cantova's account of them, where their <i>Tamoles</i> are +spoken of; and he repeats the word at least a dozen times in the +course of a few pages. But I cannot avoid transcribing from him, the +following very decisive testimony, which renders any other quotation +superfluous:--"L'autoritié du Gouvernement se partage entre +plusieurs familles nobles, dont les Chefs s'appellent <i>Tamoles</i>. +Il y a outre cela, dans chaque province, un principale <i>Tamole</i>, +auquel tous les autres sont soumis."--Lettres Edifiantes et +Curieuses, tom, xv p. 312.--D. + +<p>Mr Faber, in a prospectus to his work on Pagan Idolatry, has +availed himself of the important principle contained in this note, to +infer a common origin from the peculiar resemblance of religious +opinions and ceremonies among the various systems of paganism. His +reasoning is precisely the same as that which is used in tracing the +descent of nations, and it is very distinctly stated by him in the +following passage:--"Things, in themselves not <i>arbitrary</i>, +prove nothing whatsoever: And tribes may be alike hunters, and +fishers, and bowmen, though they have sprung from very different +ancestors. But things, in themselves <i>altogether arbitrary</i>, are +acknowledged to form the basis of a reasonable argument: And, if +tribes are found to speak dialects of the same language, and to be +attached throughout to the same whimsical customs, which are not +deducible from <i>the nature of things</i>, but from <i>pure +caprice</i> merely, such points of coincidence are commonly and +rationally thought to furnish a moral demonstration of the common +origin of those tribes." An objection to this reasoning instantly +rises from a denial of the notion, that any thing can be arbitrary, +in which such a limited being as man is concerned. A skilful +opponent, in other words, will move the previous question respecting +man's free agency, and will not move a step in consequences, till it +be decided. Nay, even if it were so, in favour of the highest claims +which have ever been put in on the side of liberty, still he might +demur, and with good reason indeed, till the fact of arbitrariness in +any case, or cases, was ascertained. Obviously, would he say, we are +not entitled to make inferences from the nature of things, till we +are acquainted with it. But who, he would ask, can with propriety +say, his acquaintance with nature is so complete, that he can at +once, and without possibility of mistake, determine, what does and +what does not belong to it? It is to be feared, that a man has but a +bad case in hand, who, in order to establish its truth, must first +prove his own infallibility. Such an objection, therefore, as has +been now stated, is evidently not destitute of strength. But on the +whole, a careful examination will convince any unprejudiced person, +that the reasoning alluded to, is entitled to considerable regard, +and yields very probable deductions. Only let us not urge it too far, +and let us by all means recollect, that things which to lookers-on +seem altogether arbitrary, may nevertheless be accounted for by the +agents themselves, on principles which have their foundation in the +common nature of our species, independent of any casual communication +or intercourse between us.--E.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>Now that I am again led to speak of cannibals, let me ask those +who maintain, that the want of food first brings men to feed on human +flesh, what is it that induces the Feejee people to keep it up in the +midst of plenty? This practice is detested very much by those of +Tongataboo, who cultivate the friendship of their savage neighbours +of Feejee, apparently out of fear, though they sometimes venture to +skirmish with them on their own ground, and carry off red feathers as +their booty, which are in great plenty there, and, as has been +frequently mentioned, are in great estimation amongst our Friendly +Islanders. When the two islands are at peace, the intercourse between +them seems to be pretty frequent, though they have, doubtless, been +but lately known to each other; or we may suppose that Tongataboo, +and its adjoining islands, would have been supplied before this with +a breed of dogs, which abound at Feejee, and had not been introduced +at Tongataboo so late as 1773, when I first visited it. The natives +of Feejee, whom we met with here, were of a colour that was a full +shade darker than that of the inhabitants of the Friendly Islands in +general. One of them had his left ear slit, and the lobe was so +distended, that it almost reached his shoulder, which singularity I +had met with at other islands of the South Sea, during my second +voyage. It appeared to me that the Feejee men whom we now saw were +much respected here, not only perhaps from the power and cruel manner +of their nation's going to war, but also from their ingenuity. For +they seem to excel the inhabitants of Tongataboo in that respect, if +we might judge from several specimens of their skill in workmanship +which we saw, such as clubs and spears, which were carved in a very +masterly manner, cloth beautifully chequered, variegated mats, +earthen pots, and some other articles, all which had a cast of +superiority in the execution.</p> + +<p>I have mentioned that Feejee lies three days sail from Tongataboo, +because these people have no other method of measuring the distance +from island to island, but by expressing the time required to make +the voyage in one of their canoes. In order to ascertain this with +some precision, or at least to form some judgment how far these +canoes can sail in a moderate gale in any given time, I went on board +one of them, when under sail, and, by several trials with the log, +found that she went seven knots, or miles, in an hour, close hauled, +in a gentle gale. From this I judge, that they will sail, on a +medium, With such breezes as generally blow in their sea, about seven +or eight miles in an hour. But the length of each day is not to be +reckoned at twenty-four hours. For when they speak of one day's sail, +they mean no more than from the morning to the evening of the same +day, that is, ten or twelve hours at most. And two days sail with +them signifies from the morning of the first day to the evening of +the second, and so for any other number of days. In these +navigations, the sun is their guide by day, and the stars by night. +When these are obscured, they have recourse to the points from whence +the winds and the waves came upon the vessel. If during the +obscuration, both the wind and the waves should shift, (which, within +the limits of the trade-wind seldom happens at any other time,) they +are then bewildered, frequently miss their intended port, and are +never heard of more. The history of Omai's countrymen, who were +driven, to Wateeoo, leads us to infer, that those not heard of are +not always lost.</p> + +<p>Of all the harbours and anchoring places I have met with among +these islands, that of Tongataboo is by far the best, not only on +account of its great security, but of its capacity, and of the +goodness of its bottom. The risk that we ran in entering it from the +north, ought to be a sufficient caution to every future commander, +not to attempt that passage again with a ship of burden, since the +other, by which we left it, is so much more easy and safe. To sail +into it by this eastern channel, steer in for the N.E. point of the +island, and keep along the north shore, with the small isles on your +starboard, till you are the length of the east point of the entrance +into the <i>lagoon</i>, then edge over for the reef of the small +isles, and, on following its direction, it will conduct you through +between Makkahaa and Monoofai, or the fourth and fifth isles, which +you will perceive to lie off the west point of the <i>lagoon</i>. Or +you may go between the third and fourth islands, that is, between +Pangimodoo and Monooafai, but this channel is much narrower than the +other. There runs a very strong tide in both. The flood, as I have +observed before, comes in from the N.W., and the ebb returns the same +way; but I shall speak of the tides in another place. As soon as you +are through either of these channels, haul in for the shore of +Tongataboo, and anchor between it and Pangimodoo, before a creek +leading into the <i>lagoon</i>, into which boats can go at half +flood.</p> + +<p>Although Tongataboo has the best harbour, Annamooka furnishes the +best water, and yet it cannot be called good. However, by digging +holes near the side of the pond, we can get what may be called +tolerable. This island too is the best situated for drawing +refreshments from all the others, as being nearly in the centre of +the whole group. Besides the road in which we anchored, and the +harbour within the south-west point, there is a creek in the reef +before the eastern sandy cove, on the north side of the island, in +which two or three ships may lie very securely by mooring head and +stern, with their anchors or moorings fast to the rocks.</p> + +<p>I have already described the Hepaee Islands, and shall only add to +that description, by mentioning that they extend S.W. by S., and N.E. +by N., about nineteen miles. The north end lies in the latitude of +19° 39" S., and 33' of longitude to the east of Annamooka. +Between them are a great many small islands, sand-banks, and +breakers; so, that, the safest way to arrive at Hepaee, is either by +the course I held, or round by the north, according to the situation +of the ship bound thither. Lefooga, off which we anchored, is the +most fertile isle of those that are called Hepaee, and consequently +is the best inhabited. There is anchorage along the north-west side +of this island; but it will be necessary to examine the ground well +before you moor. For, although the lead may bring up fine sand, there +are nevertheless some sharp coral rocks, that would soon destroy the +cables.</p> + +<p>What has been here omitted concerning the geography of these +islands, will be found in the narrative of my last voyage. To that +narrative I must also refer, for such particulars concerning the +inhabitants, their manners, and arts, as I had observed then, and +about which I saw no reason to change my judgment. At present, I +shall confine myself to such interesting particulars, as either were +not mentioned in that narrative, or were imperfectly or incorrectly +represented there, and to such as may serve to explain some passages +in the foregoing account of our transactions with the natives.</p> + +<p>It may, indeed, be expected, that after spending between two and +three months amongst them, I should be enabled to clear up every +difficulty, and to give a tolerably satisfactory account of their +customs, opinions, and institutions, both civil and religious, +especially as we had a person on board, who might be supposed +qualified to act the part of an interpreter, by understanding their +language and ours. But poor Omai was very deficient. For unless the +object or thing we wanted to enquire about, was actually before us, +we found it difficult to gain a tolerable knowledge of it from +information only, without falling into a hundred mistakes; and to +such mistakes Omai was more liable than we were. For, having no +curiosity, he never gave himself the trouble to make remarks for +himself; and, when he was disposed to explain matters to us, his +ideas appeared to be so limited, and perhaps so different from ours, +that his accounts were often so confused, as to perplex instead of +instructing us. Add to this, that it was very rare that we found +amongst the natives, a person who united the ability and the +inclination to give us the information we wanted; and we found, that +most of them hated to be troubled with what they probably thought +idle questions. Our situation at Tongataboo, where we remained the +longest, was like-wise unfavourable. It was in a part of the country +where there were few inhabitants, except fishers. It was always +holiday with our visitors, as well as with those we visited; so that +we had but few opportunities of observing what was really the +domestic way of living of the natives. Under these disadvantages, it +is not surprising that we should not be able to bring away with us +satisfactory accounts of many things; but some of us endeavoured to +remedy those disadvantages by diligent observation, and I am indebted +to Mr Anderson for a considerable share of what follows in this and +in the following section. In other matters, I have only expressed, +nearly in his own words, remarks that coincided with mine; but what +relates to the religion and language of these people is entirely his +own.</p> + +<p>The natives of the Friendly Islands seldom exceed the common +stature (though we have measured some who were above six feet), but +are very strong and well-made, especially as to their limbs. They are +generally broad about the shoulders, and though the muscular +disposition of the men, which seems a consequence of much action, +rather conveys the appearance of strength than of beauty, there are +several to be seen who are really handsome. Their features are very +various, insomuch, that it is scarcely possible to fix on any general +likeness by which to characterize them, unless it be a fullness at +the point of the nose, which is very common. But, on the other hand, +we met with hundreds of truly European faces, and many genuine Roman +noses amongst them. Their eyes and teeth are good; but the last +neither so remarkably white nor so well set, as is often found +amongst Indian nations; though to balance that, few of them have any +uncommon thickness about the lips, a defect as frequent as the other +perfection.</p> + +<p>The women are not so much distinguished from the men by their +features, as by their general form, which is, for the most part, +destitute of that strong fleshy firmness that appears in the latter. +Though the features of some are so delicate, as not only to be a true +index of their sex, but to lay claim to a considerable share of +beauty and expression, the rule is by no means so general as in many +other countries. But, at the same time, this is frequently the most +exceptionable part; for the bodies and limbs of most of the females, +are well proportioned, and some absolutely perfect models of a +beautiful figure. But the most remarkable distinction in the women, +is the uncommon smallness and delicacy of their fingers, which may be +put in competition with the finest in Europe.</p> + +<p>The general colour is a cast deeper than the copper brown; but +several of the men and women have a true olive complexion, and some +of the last are even a great deal fairer, which is probably the +effect of being less exposed to the sun, as a tendency to corpulence, +in a few of the principal people, seems to be the consequence of a +more indolent life. It is also amongst the last, that a soft clear +skin is most frequently observed. Amongst the bulk of the people, the +skin is more commonly of a dull hue, with some degree of roughness, +especially the parts that are not covered, which perhaps may be +occasioned by some cutaneous disease. We saw a man and boy at Hepaee, +and a child at Annamooka, perfectly white. Such have been found +amongst all black nations; but I apprehend that their colour is +rather a disease, than a natural phenomenon.</p> + +<p>There are nevertheless, upon the whole, few natural defects or +deformities to be found amongst them, though we saw two or three with +their feet bent inward, and some afflicted with a sort of blindness, +occasioned by a disease of the <i>cornea</i>. Neither are they exempt +from some other diseases. The most common of which is the tetter, or +ring-worm, that seems to affect almost one half of them, and leaves +whitish serpentine marks every where behind it. But this is of less +consequence than another disease which is very frequent, and appears +on every part of the body in large broad ulcers, with thick white +edges, discharging a clear thin matter, some of which had a very +virulent appearance, particularly those on the face, which were +shocking to look at. And yet we met with some who seemed to be cured +of it, and others in a fair way of being cured; but this was not +effected without the loss of the nose, or of the best part of it. As +we know for a certainty, (and the fact is acknowledged by +themselves), that the people of these islands were subject to this +loathsome disease before the English first visited them, +notwithstanding the similarity of symptoms, it cannot be the effect +of the venereal contagion, unless we adopt a supposition, which I +could wish had a sufficient foundation in truth, that the venereal +disorder was not introduced here from Europe by our ships in 1773. It +assuredly was now found to exist amongst them, for we had not been +long there, before some of our people received the infection; and I +had the mortification to learn from thence, that all the care I took +when I first visited these islands to prevent this dreadful disease +from being communicated to their inhabitants, had proved ineffectual. +What is extraordinary, they do not seem to regard it much; and as we +saw few signs of its destroying effects, probably the climate, and +the way of living of these people, greatly abate its virulence. There +are two other diseases frequent amongst them; one of which is an +indolent firm swelling, which affects the legs and arms, and +increases them to an extraordinary size in their whole length. The +other is a tumour of the same sort in the testicles, which sometimes +exceed the size of the two fists. But, in other respects, they may be +considered as uncommonly healthy, not a single person having been +seen, during our stay, confined to the house by sickness of any kind. +On the contrary, their strength and activity are every way answerable +to their muscular appearance; and they exert both, in their usual +employment and in their diversions, in such a manner, that there can +be no doubt of their being; as yet, little debilitated by the +numerous diseases that are the consequence of indolence, and an +unnatural method of life.</p> + +<p>The graceful air and firm step with which these people walk, are +not the least obvious proof of their personal accomplishments. They +consider this as a thing so natural, or so necessary to be acquired, +that nothing used to excite their laughter sooner, than to see us +frequently stumbling upon the roots of trees, or other inequalities +of the ground.</p> + +<p>Their countenances very remarkably express the abundant mildness +or good-nature which they possess; and are entirely free from that +savage keenness which marks nations in a barbarous state. One would, +indeed, be apt to fancy that they had been bred up under the severest +restrictions, to acquire an aspect so settled, and such a command of +their passions, as well as steadiness in conduct. But they are, at +the same time, frank, cheerful, and good-humoured; though sometimes +in the presence of their chiefs, they put on a degree of gravity, and +such a serious air, as becomes stiff and awkward, and has an +appearance of reserve.</p> + +<p>Their peaceable disposition is sufficiently evinced from the +friendly reception all strangers have met with who have visited them. +Instead of offering to attack them openly or clandestinely, as has +been the case with most of the inhabitants of these seas, they have +never appeared, in the smallest degree, hostile; but, on the +contrary, like the most civilized people, have courted an intercourse +with, their visitors by bartering, which is the only medium that +unites all nations in a sort of friendship. They understand barter +(which they call <i>fukkatou</i>) so perfectly, that at first we +imagined they might have acquired this knowledge of it by commercial +intercourse with the neighbouring islands; but we were afterward +assured, that they had little or no traffic, except with Feejee, from +which they get the red feathers, and the few other articles mentioned +before. Perhaps no nation in the world traffic with more honesty and +less distrust. We could always safely permit them to examine our +goods, and to hand them about one to another; and they put the same +confidence in us. If either party repented of the bargain, the goods +were re-exchanged with mutual consent and good-humour. Upon the +whole, they seem possessed of many of the most excellent qualities +that adorn the human mind; such as industry, ingenuity, perseverance, +affability, and, perhaps, other virtues which our short stay with +them might prevent our observing.</p> + +<p>The only defect sullying their character, that we know of, is a +propensity to thieving, to which we found those of all ages, and both +sexes, addicted, and to an uncommon degree. It should, however, be +considered, that this exceptionable part of their conduct seemed to +exist merely with respect to us; for, in their general intercourse +with one another, I had reason to be of opinion, that thefts do not +happen more frequently (perhaps less so) than in other countries, the +dishonest practices of whose worthless individuals are not supposed +to authorise any indiscriminate censure on the whole body of the +people. Great allowances should be made for the foibles of these poor +natives of the Pacific Ocean, whose minds were overpowered with the +glare of objects, equally new to them, as they were captivating. +Stealing, amongst the civilized and enlightened nations of the world, +may well be considered as denoting a character deeply stained with +moral turpitude, with avarice unrestrained by the known rules of +right, and with profligacy producing extreme indigence, and +neglecting the means of relieving it. But at the Friendly and other +islands which we visited, the thefts, so frequently committed by the +natives, of what we had brought along with us, may be fairly traced +to less culpable motives. They seemed to arise solely from an intense +curiosity or desire to possess something which they had not been +accustomed to before, and belonging to a sort of people so different +from themselves. And, perhaps, if it were possible, that a set of +beings, seemingly as superior in our judgment, as we are in theirs, +should appear amongst us, it might be doubted, whether our natural +regard to justice would be able to restrain many from falling into +the same error. That I have assigned the true motive for their +propensity to this practice, appears from their stealing every thing +indiscriminately at first sight, before they could have the least +conception of converting their prize to any one useful purpose. But I +believe with us, no person would forfeit his reputation, or expose +himself to punishment, without knowing, before-hand, how to employ +the stolen goods. Upon the whole, the pilfering disposition of these +islanders, though certainly disagreeable and troublesome to +strangers, was the means of affording us some information as to the +quickness of their intellects. For their small thefts were committed +with much dexterity; and those of greater consequence with a plan or +scheme suited to the importance of the objects. An extraordinary +instance of the last sort, their attempts to carry away one of the +Discovery's anchors at mid-day, has been already related.</p> + +<p>Their hair is, in general, straight, thick, and strong, though a +few have it bushy and frizzled. The natural colour, I believe, almost +without exception, is black; but the greatest part of the men, and +some of the women, have it stained of a brown or purple colour, and a +few of an orange cast. The first colour is produced by applying a +sort of plaster of burnt coral, mixed with water; the second, by the +raspings of a reddish wood, which is made up with water into a +poultice, and laid over the hair; and the third is, I believe, the +effect of <i>turmeric</i> root.</p> + +<p>When I first visited these islands, I thought it had been an +universal custom for both men and women to wear the hair short; but, +during our present longer stay, we saw a great many exceptions. +Indeed, they are so whimsical in their fashions of wearing it, that +it is hard to tell which is most in vogue. Some have it cut off from +one side of the head, while that on the other remains long; some have +only a portion of it cut short, or perhaps shaved; others have it +entirely cut off, except a single lock, which is left commonly on one +side; or it is suffered to grow to its full length, without any of +these mutilations. The women in general wear it short. The men have +their beards cut short; and both men and women strip the hair from +their arm pits. The operation by which this is performed has been +already described. The men are stained from about the middle of the +belly, to about half way down their thighs, with a deep, blue colour. +This is done with a flat bone instrument, cut full of fine teeth, +which, being dipped in the staining mixture, prepared from the juice +of the <i>dooe dooe</i>, is struck into the skin with a bit of stick, +and, by that means, indelible marks are made. In this manner they +trace lines and figures, which, in some, are very elegant, both from +the variety, and from the arrangement. The women have only a few +small lines or spots, thus imprinted, on the inside of their hands. +Their kings, as a mark of distinction, are exempted from this custom, +as also from inflicting on themselves any of those bloody marks of +mourning, which shall be mentioned in another place.</p> + +<p>The men are all circumcised, or rather supercised; as the +operation consists in cutting off only a small piece of the foreskin +at the upper part, which, by that means, is rendered incapable ever +after of covering the <i>glans</i>. This is all they aim at; as they +say, the operation is practised from a notion of cleanliness.</p> + +<p>The dress of both men and women is the same, and consists of a +piece of cloth or matting (but mostly the former), about two yards +wide, and two and a half long; at least, so long as to go once and a +half round the waist, to which it is confined by a girdle or cord. It +is double before, and hangs down like a petticoat, as low as the +middle of the leg. The upper part of the garment, above the girdle, +is plaited into several folds; so that when unfolded, there is cloth +sufficient to draw up and wrap round the shoulders, which is very +seldom done. This, as to form, is the general dress; but large pieces +of cloth, and fine matting, are worn only by the superior people. The +inferior sort are satisfied with small pieces, and very often wear +nothing but a covering made of leaves of plants, or the <i>maro</i>, +which is a narrow piece of cloth, or matting, like a sash. This they +pass between the thighs, and wrap round the waist; but the use of it +is chiefly confined to the men. In their great <i>haivas</i>, or +entertainments, they have various dresses made for the purpose; but +the form is always the same, and the richest dresses are covered, +more or less, with red feathers. On what particular occasion their +chiefs wear their large red feather-caps, I could not learn. Both men +and women sometimes shade their faces from the sun with little +bonnets, made of various materials.</p> + +<p>As the clothing, so are the ornaments, worn by those of both +sexes, the same. The most common of these are necklaces, made of the +fruit of the <i>pandamus</i>, and various sweet-smelling flowers, +which go under the general name of <i>kahulla</i>. Others are +composed of small shells, the wing and leg-bones of birds, shark's +teeth, and other things; all which hang loose upon the breast. In the +same manner, they often wear a mother-of-pearl shell, neatly +polished, or a ring of the same substance carved, on the upper part +of the arm; rings of tortoise-shell on the fingers, and a number of +these joined together as bracelets on the wrists.</p> + +<p>The lobes of the ears (though most frequently only one) are +perforated, with two holes, in which they wear cylindrical bits of +ivory, about three inches long, introduced at one hole, and brought +out of the other; or bits of reed of the same size, filled with a +yellow pigment. This seems, to be a fine powder of turmeric, with +which the women rub themselves all over, in the same manner, as our +ladies use their dry rouge upon the cheeks.</p> + +<p>Nothing appears to give them greater pleasure than personal +cleanliness; to produce which, they frequently bathe in the ponds, +which seem to serve no other purpose.[178] Though the water in most +of them stinks intolerably, they prefer them to the sea; and they are +so sensible that salt water hurts their skin, that, when necessity +obliges them to bathe in the sea, they commonly have some cocoa-nut +shells, filled with fresh water, poured over them, to wash it off. +They are immoderately fond of cocoa-nut oil for the same reason; a +great quantity of which they not only pour upon their head and +shoulders, but rub the body all over, briskly, with a smaller +quantity. And none but those who have seen this practice, can easily +conceive how the appearance of the skin is improved by it. This oil, +however, is not to be procured by every one; and the inferior sort of +people, doubtless, appear less smooth for want of it.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 178: So at the Caroline Islands. "Ils sont +accoutumés a se baigner trois fois le jour, le matin, à +midi, et sur le soir." <i>Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses</i>, tom. +xv. p. 314.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION XI.</p> + +<p><i>Employments of the Women, at the Friendly Islands.--Of the +Men.--Agriculture.--Construction of their Houses.--Their working +Tools.--Cordage and fishing Implements.--Musical +Instruments.--Weapons. --Food and +Cookery.--Amusements.--Marriage.--Mourning Ceremonies for the +Dead.--Their Divinities.--Notions about the Soul, and a Future +State.--Their Places of Worship.--Government.--Manner of paying +Obeisance to the King.--Account of the Royal Family.--Remarks on +their Language, and a Specimen of it.--Nautical, and other +Observations</i>.</p> + +<p>Their domestic life is of that middle kind, neither so laborious +as to be disagreeable, nor so vacant as to suffer them to degenerate +into indolence. Nature has done so much for their country, that the +first can hardly occur, and their disposition seems to be a pretty +good bar to the last. By this happy combination of circumstances, +their necessary labor seems to yield in its turn to their +recreations, in such a manner, that the latter are never interrupted +by the thoughts of being obliged to recur to the former, till satiety +makes them wish for such a transition.</p> + +<p>The employment of the women is of the easy kind, and, for the most +part, such as may be executed in the house. The manufacturing their +cloth is wholly consigned to their care. Having already described the +process, I shall only add, that they have this cloth of different +degrees of fineness. The coarser sort, of which they make very large +pieces, does not receive the impression of any pattern. Of the finer +sort, they have some that is striped and chequered, and of other +patterns differently coloured. But how these colours are laid on, I +cannot say, as I never saw any of this sort made. The cloth, in +general, will resist water for some time; but that which has the +strongest glaze will resist longest.</p> + +<p>The manufacture next in consequence, and also within the +department of the women, is that of their mats, which excel every +thing I have seen at any other place, both as to their texture and +their beauty. In particular, many of them are so superior to those +made at Otaheite, that they are not a bad article to carry thither by +way of trade. Of these mats, they have seven or eight different +sorts, for the purposes of wearing or sleeping upon, and many are +merely ornamental. The last are chiefly made from the tough +membraneous part of the stock of the plantain tree; those that they +wear from the <i>pandanus</i>, cultivated for that purpose, and never +suffered to shoot into a trunk; and the coarser sort, which they +sleep upon, from a plant called <i>evarra</i>. There are many other +articles of less note, that employ the spare time of their females; +as combs, of which, they make vast numbers; and little baskets made +of the same substance as the mats, and others of the fibrous +cocoa-nut husk, either plain, or interwoven with small beads; but all +finished with such neatness and taste in the disposition of the +various parts, that a stranger cannot help admiring their assiduity +and dexterity.</p> + +<p>The province allotted to the men is, as might be expected, far +more laborious and extensive than that of the women. Agriculture, +architecture, boat-building, fishing, and other things that relate to +navigation, are the objects of their care.[179] Cultivated roots and +fruits being their principal support, this requires their constant +attention to agriculture, which they pursue very diligently, and seem +to have brought almost to as great perfection as circumstances will +permit. The large extent of the plantain fields has been taken notice +of already, and the same may be said of the yams; these two together, +being at least as ten to one, with respect to all the other articles. +In planting both these, they dig small holes for their reception, and +afterward root up the surrounding grass, which, in this hot country, +is quickly deprived of its vegetating power, and, soon rotting, +becomes a good manure. The instruments they use for this purpose, +which they call <i>hooo</i>, are nothing more than pickers or stakes +of different lengths, according to the depth they have to dig. These +are flattened and sharpened to an edge at one end, and the largest +have a short piece fixed transversely, for pressing it into the +ground with the foot. With these, though they are not more than from +two to four inches broad, they dig and plant ground of many acres in +extent. In planting the plantains and yams, they observe so much +exactness, that, whichever way you look, the rows present themselves +regular and complete.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 179: How remarkably does Captain Cook's account +of the employments of the women and men here, agree with Father +Cantova's, of the Caroline Islanders?--"La principale occupation des +hommes, est de construire des barques, de pecher, et de cultiver la +terre. L'affaire des femmes est de faire la cuisine, et de mettre en +oeuvre un espece de plante sauvagé, et un arbre,--pour en +faire de la toile."--<i>Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses</i>, tom. xv. +p. 313.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>The cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees are scattered about without +any order, and seem to give them no trouble, after they have attained +a certain height. The same may be said of another large tree, which +produces great numbers of a large, roundish, compressed nut, called +<i>eeefee</i>; and of a smaller tree that bears a rounded oval nut, +two inches long, with two or three triangular kernels, tough and +insipid, called <i>mabba</i>, most frequently planted near their +houses.</p> + +<p>The <i>kappe</i> is commonly regularly planted, and in pretty +large spots; but the <i>mawhaha</i> is interspersed amongst other +things, as the <i>jeejee</i> and <i>yams</i> are; the last of which I +have frequently seen in the insterspaces of the plantain trees at +their common distance. Sugar-cane is commonly in small spots, crowded +closely together; and the mulberry, of which the cloth is made, +though without order, has sufficient room allowed for it, and is kept +very clean. The only other plant, that they cultivate for their +manufactures, is the <i>pandanus</i>, which is generally planted in a +row, close together, at the sides of the other fields; and they +consider it as a thing so distinct in this state, that they have a +different name for it, which shews, that they are very sensible of +the great changes brought about by cultivation.</p> + +<p>It is remarkable, that these people, who, in many things shew much +taste and ingenuity, should shew little of either in building their +houses, though the defect is rather in the design than in the +execution. Those of the lower people are poor huts, scarcely +sufficient to defend them from the weather, and very small. Those of +the better sort are larger and more comfortable, but not what one +might expect. The dimensions of one of a middling size, are about +thirty feet long, twenty broad, and twelve high. Their house is, +properly speaking, a thatched roof or shed, supported by posts and +rafters, disposed in a very judicious manner. The floor is raised +with earth smoothed, and covered with strong thick matting, and kept +very clean. The most of them are closed on the weather-side, (and +some more than two-thirds round), with strong mats, or with branches +of the cocoa-nut tree plaited or woven into each other. These they +fix up edgewise, reaching from the eaves to the ground, and thus they +answer the purpose of a wall. A thick strong mat, about two and +one-half or three feet broad, bent into the form of a semicircle, and +set up on its edge, with the ends touching the side of the house, in +shape resembling the fender of a fire-hearth, incloses a space for +the master and mistress of the family to sleep in. The lady, indeed, +spends most of her time during the day within it. The rest of the +family sleep upon the floor, wherever they please to lie down; the +unmarried men and women apart from each other. Or, if the family be +large, there are small huts adjoining, to which the servants retire +in the night; so that privacy is as much observed here as one could +expect. They have mats made on purpose for sleeping on; and the +clothes that they wear in the day, serve for their covering in the +night. Their whole furniture consists of a bowl or two, in which they +make <i>kava</i>; a few gourds, cocoa-nut shells, some small wooden +stools which serve them for pillows; and, perhaps, a large stool for +the chief or master of the family to sit upon.</p> + +<p>The only probable reason I can assign for their neglect of +ornamental architecture in the construction of their houses, is their +being fond of living much in the open air. Indeed, they seem to +consider their houses, within which they seldom eat, as of little use +but to sleep in, and to retire to in bad weather. And the lower sort +of people, who spend a great part of their time in close attendance +upon the chiefs, can have little use for their own houses, but in the +last case.</p> + +<p>They make amends for the defects of their houses by their great +attention to, and dexterity, in, naval architecture, if I may be +allowed to give it that name. But I refer to the narrative of my last +voyage, for an account of their canoes, and their manner of building +and navigating them.[180]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 180: The reader, by comparing that account with +what Cantova says of the sea-boats of the Caroline Islands, will +find, in this instance, also, the greatest similarity. See <i>Lettres +Edifiantes et Curieuses</i>, p. 286.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>The only tools which they use to construct these boats, are +hatchets, or rather thick adzes, of a smooth black stone that abounds +at Toofooa; augres, made of sharks' teeth, fixed on small handles; +and rasps of a rough skin of a fish, fastened on flat pieces of wood, +thinner on one side, which also have handles. The labour and time +employed in finishing their canoes, which are the most perfect of +their mechanical productions, will account for their being very +careful of them. For they are built and preserved under sheds, or +they cover the decked part of them with cocoa leaves, when they are +hauled on shore, to prevent their being hurt by the sun.</p> + +<p>The same tools are all they have for other works, if we except +different shells, which they use as knives. But there are few of +their productions that require these, unless it be some of their +weapons; the other articles being chiefly their fishing materials and +cordage.</p> + +<p>The cordage is made from the fibres of the cocoa-nut husk, which, +though not more than nine or ten inches long, they plait, about the +size of a quill or less, to any length that they please, and roll it +up in balls, from which the larger ropes are made, by twisting +several of these together. The lines that they fish with, are as +strong and even as the best cord we make, resembling it almost in +every respect. Their other fishing implements are large and small +hooks. The last are composed entirely of pearl-shell, but the first +are only covered with it on the back, and the points of both commonly +of tortoise-shell; those of the small being plain, and the others +barbed. With the large ones they catch bonnetos and albicores, by +putting them to a bamboo rod, twelve or fourteen feet long, with a +line of the same length, which rests in a notch of a piece of wood, +fixed in the stern of the canoe for that purpose, and is dragged on +the surface of the sea, as she rows along, without any other bait +than a tuft of flaxy stuff near the point. They have also great +numbers of pretty small seines, some of which are of a very delicate +texture. These they use to catch fish with, in the holes on the +reefs, when the tide ebbs.</p> + +<p>The other manual employments consist chiefly in making musical +reeds, flutes, warlike weapons, and stools, or rather pillows, to +sleep on. The reed have eight, nine, or ten pieces, placed parallel +to each other, but not in any regular progression, having the longest +sometimes in the middle, and several of the same length; so that I +have seen none with more than six notes, and they seem incapable of +playing any music on them, that is, distinguishable by our ears. The +flutes are a joint of bamboo, close at both ends, with a hole near +each, and four others; two of which, and one of the first only, are +used in playing. They apply the thumb of the left hand to close the +left nostril, and blow into the hole at one end with the other. The +middle finger of the left hand is applied to the first hole on the +left, and the fore-finger of the right to the lowest hole on that +side. In this manner, though the notes are only three, they produce a +pleasing, yet simple music, which they vary much more than one would +think possible, with so imperfect an instrument. Their being +accustomed to a music which consists of so few notes, is, perhaps, +the reason why they do not seem to relish any of ours, which is so +complex. But they can taste what is more deficient than their own; +for, we observed, that they used to be well pleased with hearing the +chant of our two young New Zealanders, which consisted rather in mere +strength, than in melody of expression.</p> + +<p>The weapons which they make, are clubs of different sorts (in the +ornamenting of which they spend much time), spears, and darts. They +have also bows and arrows; but these seemed to be designed only for +amusement, such as shooting at birds, and not for military purposes. +The stools are about two feet long, but only four or five inches +high, and near four broad, bending downward in the middle, with four +strong legs, and circular feet; the whole made of one piece of black +or brown wood, neatly polished, and sometimes inlaid with bits of +ivory. They also inlay the handles of fly-flaps with ivory, after +being neatly carved; and they shape bones into small figures of men, +birds, and other things, which must be very difficult, as their +carving instrument is only a shark's tooth.</p> + +<p>Yams, plantains, and cocoa-nuts, compose the greatest part of +their vegetable diet. Of their animal food, the chief articles are +hogs, fowls, fish, and all sorts of shellfish; but the lower people +eat rats. The two first vegetable articles, with bread-fruit, are +what may be called the basis of their food at different times of the +year, with fish and shell-fish; for hogs, fowls, and turtle, seem +only to be occasional dainties reserved for their chiefs. The +intervals between the seasons of these vegetable productions, must be +sometimes considerable, as they prepare a sort of artificial bread +from plantains, which they put under ground before ripe, and suffer +them to remain till they ferment, when they are taken out, and made +up into small balls; but so sour and indifferent, that they often +said our bread was preferable, though somewhat musty.</p> + +<p>Their food is generally dressed by baking, in the same manner as +at Otaheite; and they have the art of making, from different kinds of +fruit, several dishes, which most of us esteemed very good. I never +saw them make use of any kind of sauce, nor drink any thing at their +meals but water, or the juice of the cocoa-nut; for the <i>kava</i> +is only their morning draught. I cannot say that they are cleanly, +either in their cookery, or manner of eating. The generality of them +will lay their victuals upon the first leaf they meet with, however +dirty it may be; but when food is served up to the chiefs, it is +commonly laid upon green plantain leaves. When the king made a meal, +he was, for the most part, attended upon by three or four persons. +One cut large pieces of the joint, or of the fish; another divided it +into mouthfuls; and others stood by with cocoa-nuts, and whatever +else he might want. I never saw a large company sit down to what we +should call a sociable meal, by eating from the same dish. The food, +be what it will, is always divided into portions, each to serve a +certain number; these portions are again subdivided; so that one +seldom sees above two or three persons eating together. The women are +not excluded from eating with the men; but there are certain ranks or +orders amongst them, that can neither eat nor drink together. This +distinction begins with the king; but where it ends, I cannot +say.</p> + +<p>They seem to have no set time for meals; though it should be +observed, that, during our stay amongst them, their domestic economy +was much disturbed by their constant attention to us. As far as we +could remark, those of the superior rank only drink <i>kava</i> in +the forenoon, and the others eat, perhaps, a bit of yam; but we +commonly saw all of them eat something in the afternoon. It is +probable that the practice of making a meal in the night is pretty +common, and their rest being thus interrupted, they frequently sleep +in the day. They go to bed as soon as it is dark, and rise with the +dawn in the morning.[181]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 181: Cantova says of his islanders, "Ils +prennent leur repos des que le soleil est couché, et ils se +levent avec l'aurore."--<i>Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses</i>, tom. +xv. p. 314.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>They are very fond of associating together; so that it is common +to find several houses empty and the owners of them convened in some +other one, or, rather, upon a convenient spot in the neighbourhood, +where they recreate themselves by conversing and other amusements. +Their private diversions are chiefly singing, dancing, and music +performed by the women. When two or three women sing in concert, and +snap their fingers, it is called <i>hoobai</i>; but when there is a +greater number, they divide into several parties, each of which sings +on a different key, which makes a very agreeable music, and is called +<i>heeva</i> or <i>haiva</i>. In the same manner, they vary the music +of their flutes by playing on those of a different size; but their +dancing is much the same as when they perform publicly. The dancing +of the men (if it is to be called dancing), although it does not +consist much in moving the feet, as we do, has a thousand different +motions with the hands, to which we are entire strangers; and they +are performed with an ease and grace which are not to be described, +nor even conceived, but by those who have seen them. But I need add +nothing to what has been already said on this subject, in the account +of the incidents that happened during our stay at the +islands.[182]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 182: If, to the copious descriptions that occur +in the preceding pages, of the particular entertainments exhibited in +Hepaee and Tongataboo, we add the general view of the usual +amusements of the inhabitants of these islands, contained in this +paragraph, and compare it with the quotation from the Jesuit's +Letters, in a former note, we shall be still more forcibly struck +with the reasonableness of tracing such singularly resembling customs +to one common source. The argument, in confirmation of this, drawn +from identity of language, has been already illustrated, by observing +the remarkable coincidence of the name by which the chiefs of the +Caroline Islands, and those at Hamao, one of the friendly ones, are +distinguished. But the argument does not rest on a single instance, +though that happens to be a very striking one. Another of the very +few specimens of the dialect of the North Pacific islanders, +preserved by Father Cantova, furnishes an additional proof. +Immediately after the passage above referred to, he proceeds thus: +"Ce divertissement s'appelle, en leur langue, <i>tanger ifaifil</i>; +qui veut dire, la plainte des femmes."--<i>Lettres tres Edifiantes et +Curieuses</i>, tom. xv. p. 315. Now it is very remarkable, that we +learn from Mr Anderson's collection of words, which will appear in +this chapter, that <i>la plainte des femmes</i>, or, in English, +<i>the mournful song of the women</i>, which the inhabitants of the +Caroline Islands express in their language <i>tanger ifaifil</i>, +would, by those of Tongataboo, be expressed <i>tangee vefaine</i>. + +<p>If any one should still doubt, in spite of this evidence, it may +be recommended to his consideration, that long separation and other +causes, have introduced greater variations in the mode of pronouncing +these two words, at places confessedly inhabited by the same race, +than subsist in the specimen just given. It appears, from Mr +Anderson's vocabulary, printed in Captain Cook's second voyage, that +what is pronounced <i>tangee</i> at the Friendly Islands, is +<i>taee</i> at Otaheite; and the <i>vefaine</i> of the former, is the +<i>waheine</i> of the latter.--D.]</p> +</blockquote> + +<p>Whether their marriages be made lasting by any kind of solemn +contract, we could not determine with precision; but it is certain, +that the bulk of the people satisfied themselves with one wife. The +chiefs, however, have commonly several women;[183] though some of us +were of opinion, that there was only one that was looked upon as the +mistress of the family.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 183: Cantova says of his Caroline islanders, +"La pluralité des femmes est non seulement permise à +tous ces insulaires, elle est encore une marque d'honneur et de +distinction. Le <i>Tamole</i> de l'isle d'Huogoleu en a +neuf."--<i>Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses</i>, tom. xv. p. +310.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>As female chastity, at first sight, seemed to be held in no great +estimation, we expected to have found frequent breaches of their +conjugal fidelity; but we did them great injustice. I do not know +that a single instance happened daring our whole stay.[184] Neither +are those of the better sort, that are unmarried, more free of their +favours. It is true, there was no want of those of a different +character; and, perhaps, such are more frequently met with here, in +proportion to the number of people, than in many other countries. But +it appeared to me, that the most, if not all of them, were of the +lowest class; and such of them as permitted familiarities to our +people, were prostitutes by profession.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 184: At the Caroline Islands, "Ils ont horreur +de l'adultere, comme d'une grand pêché."--<i>Ibid</i>. +tom. xv. p. 310.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>Nothing can be a greater proof of the humanity of these people, +than the concern they shew for the dead.[185] To use a common +expression, their mourning is not in words, but deeds. For, besides +the <i>tooge</i> mentioned before, and burnt circles and scars, they +beat the teeth with stones, strike a shark's tooth into the head, +until the blood flows in streams, and thrust spears into the inner +part of the thigh, into their sides below the arms-pits, and through +the cheeks into the mouth. All these operations convey an idea of +such rigorous discipline, as must require either an uncommon degree +of affection, or the grossest superstition, to exact. I will not say, +that the last has no share in it; for sometimes it is so universal, +that many could not have any knowledge of the person for whom the +concern is expressed. Thus we saw the people of Tongataboo mourning +the death of a chief at Vavaoo; and other similar instances occurred +during our stay. It should be observed, however, that the more +painful operations are only practised on account of the death of +those most nearly connected with the mourners.[186] When a person +dies, he is buried, after being wrapped up in mats and cloth, much +after our manner. The chiefs seem to have the <i>fiatookas</i> +appropriated to them as their burial-places; but the common people +are interred in no particular spot. What part of the mourning +ceremony follows immediately after, is uncertain; but that there is +something besides the general one, which is continued for a +considerable length of time, we could infer, from being informed, +that the funeral of Mareewagee's wife, as mentioned before, was to be +attended with ceremonies that were to last five days, and in which +all the principal people were to commemorate her.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 185: How the inhabitants of the Caroline +Islands express their grief on such occasions, may be seen, +<i>ibid</i>. tom. xv. p. 308.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 186: The practice of wounding the body on the +death of friends, appears to have existed in ancient times, and among +different people. Moses forbids it to the Israelites, in Levit. xix. +28. "Ye shall not make <i>any cutting in your flesh</i> for the dead, +nor print any mark upon you." So in Deut. xiv. 1.; and Parkhurst, in +his Heb. Lexicon, commenting on the passage in Deuteronomy, says, the +word rendered <i>to cut</i>, is of more general signification, +including "all assaults on their own persons from immoderate grief, +such as beating the breasts, tearing the hair, etc. which were +commonly practised by the heathen, who have no hope of a +resurrection." He instances in the Iliad xix, line 284, in the Eneid +iv, line 673, the case of the Egyptians mentioned by Herodotus, Q. +85, and several other passages in different writers. It would be easy +to find out similar examples in the accounts of more modern nations. +But the subject is not very inviting to extensive +research.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Their long and general mourning proves that they consider death as +a very great evil. And this is confirmed by a very odd custom which +they practise to avert it. When I first visited these islands, during +my last voyage, I observed that many of the inhabitants had one or +both of their little fingers cut off, and we could not then receive +any satisfactory account of the reason of this mutilation.[187] But +we now learned, that this operation is performed when they labour +under some grievous disease, and think themselves in danger of dying. +They suppose, that the Deity will accept of the little finger, as a +sort of sacrifice efficacious enough to procure the recovery of their +health. They cut it off with one of their stone hatchets. There was +scarcely one in ten of them whom we did not find thus mutilated in +one or both hands, which has a disagreeable effect, especially as +they sometimes cut so close, that they encroach upon the bone of the +hand, which joins to the amputated finger.[188]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 187: Cantova's account of the practice of the +Caroline Islands, is as follows: "Lorsqu'il meurt quelque personne +d'un rang distmgué, ou qui leur est chere par d'autres +endroits, ses obseques se font avec pompe. Il y eu a qui renferment +le corps da défunct dans un petit edifice de pierre, qu'ils +gardent au-dedans de leur maisons. D'autres les enterrent loin de +leurs habitations."--<i>Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses</i>, tom. xv. +p. 308, 309.--D.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 188: It may be proper to mention here, on the +authority of Captain King, that it is common for the inferior people +to cut off a joint of their little finger, on account of the sickness +of the chiefs to whom they belong.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>From the rigid severity with which some of these mourning and +religious ceremonies are executed, one would expect to find, that +they meant thereby to secure to themselves felicity beyond the grave; +but their principal object relates to things merely temporal. For +they seem to have little conception of future punishment for faults +committed in this life. They believe, however, that they are justly +punished upon earth; and consequently use every method to render +their divinities propitious. The Supreme Author of most things they +call <i>Kallafootonga</i>, who, they say, is a female residing in the +sky, and directing the thunder, wind, rain, and, in general, all the +changes of weather. They believe, that when she is angry with them, +the productions of the earth are blasted; that many things are +destroyed by lightning; and that they themselves are afflicted with +sickness and death, as well as their hogs and other animals. When +this anger abates, they suppose that every thing is restored to its +natural order; and it should seem that they have a great reliance on +the efficacy of their endeavours to appease their offended divinity. +They also admit a plurality of deities, though all inferior to +<i>Kallafootonga</i>. Amongst them, they mention +<i>Toofooa-boolootoo</i>, god of the clouds and fog; +<i>Talleteboo</i>, and some others, residing in the heavens. The +first in rank and power, who has the government of the sea, and its +productions., is called <i>Futtafaihe</i>, or, as it was sometimes +pronounced, <i>Footafooa</i>, who, they say, is a male, and has for +his wife <i>Fykava kajeea</i>; and here, as in heaven, there are +several inferior potentates, such as <i>Vahaa fonooa, Tareeava, +Mattaba, Evaroo</i>, and others. The same religious system, however, +does not extend all over the cluster of the Friendly Isles; for the +supreme god of <i>Hepaee</i>, for instance, is called <i>Alo Alo</i>; +and other isles have two or three of different names. But their +notions of the power and other attributes of these beings are so very +absurd, that they suppose they have no farther concern with them +after death.</p> + +<p>They have, however, very proper sentiments about the immateriality +and the immortality of the soul. They call it life, the living +principle, or, what is more agreeable to their notions of it, an +<i>Otooa</i>, that is, a divinity, or invisible being. They say, that +immediately upon death, the souls of their chiefs separate from their +bodies, and go to a place called <i>Boolootoo</i>, the chief, or god, +of which is <i>Gooleho</i>. This <i>Gooleho</i> seems to be a +personification of death; for they used to say to us, "You, and the +men of Feejee (by this junction meaning to pay a compliment, +expressive of their confession of our superiority over themselves), +are also subject to the power and dominion of <i>Gooleho</i>." His +country, the general receptacle of the dead, according to their +mythology, was never seen by any person; and yet, it seems, they know +that it lies to the westward of Feejee; and that they who are once +transported thither, live for ever; or, to use their own expression, +are not subject to death again, but feast upon all the favourite +products of their own country, with which this everlasting abode is +supposed to abound. As to the souls of the lower sort of people, they +undergo a sort of transmigration; or, as they say, are eat by a bird +called <i>loata</i>, which walks upon their graves for that +purpose.</p> + +<p>I think I may venture to assert, that they do not worship any +thing that is the work of their own hands or any visible part of the +creation. They do not make offerings of hogs, dogs, and fruit, as at +Otaheite, unless it be emblematically; for their <i>morais</i> were +perfectly free from every thing of the kind. But that they offer real +human sacrifices, is, with me, beyond a doubt. Their <i>morais</i> or +<i>fiatookas</i>, (for they are called by both names, but mostly by +the latter), are, as at Otaheite, and many other parts of the world, +burying-grounds, and places of worship; though some of them seemed to +be only appropriated to the first purpose; but these were small, and, +in every other respect, inferior to the others.</p> + +<p>Of the nature of their government, we know no more than the +general outline. A subordination is established among them, that +resembles the feudal system of our progenitors in Europe. But of its +subdivisions, of the constituent parts, and in what manner they are +connected, so as to form a body politic, I confess myself totally +ignorant. Some of them told us, that the power of the king is +unlimited, and that the life and property of the subject is at his +disposal. But the few circumstances that fell under our observation, +rather contradicted than confirmed the idea of a despotic government. +Mareewagee, old Toobou, and Feenou, acted each like petty sovereigns, +and frequently thwarted the measures of the king, of which he often +complained. Neither was his court more splendid than those of the two +first, who are the most powerful chiefs in the islands; and, next to +them, Feenou, Mareewagee's son, seemed to stand highest in authority. +But, however independent on the despotic power of the king the great +men may be, we saw instances enough to prove, that the lower order of +people have no property, nor safety for their persons, but at the +will of the chiefs to whom they respectively belong.</p> + +<p>Tongataboo is divided into many districts; of above thirty of +which we learned the names. Each of these has its particular chief, +who decides differences, and distributes justice within his own +district. But we could not form any satisfactory judgment about the +extent of their power in general, or their mode of proportioning +punishments to crimes. Most of these chiefs have possessions in other +islands from whence they draw supplies. At least, we know this is so +with respect to the king, who, at certain established times, receives +the product of his distant domains at Tongataboo, which is not only +the principal place of his residence, but seemingly of all the people +of consequence amongst these isles. Its inhabitants, in common +conversation, call it the Land of Chiefs, while the subordinate isles +are distinguished by the appellation of Lands of Servants.</p> + +<p>These chiefs are, by the people, styled not only lords of the +earth, but of the sun and sky; and the king's family assume the name +of Futtafaihe, from the god so called, who is probably their tutelary +patron, and perhaps their common ancestor. The sovereign's peculiar +earthly title is however, simply <i>Tooee Tunga</i>.</p> + +<p>There is a decorum observed in the presence of their principal +men, and particularly of their king, that is truly admirable. +Whenever he sits, down, whether it be in an house, or without, all +the attendants seat themselves at the same time, in a semicircle +before him, leaving always a convenient space between him and them, +into which no one attempts to come, unless he has some particular +business. Neither is any one allowed to pass, or sit behind him, nor +even near him, without his order or permission, so that our having +been indulged with this privilege, was a significant proof of the +great respect that was paid us. When any one wants to speak with the +king, he advances and sits down before him, delivers what he has to +say in a few words, and, having received his answer, retires again to +the circle. But if the king speaks to any one, that person answers +from his seat, unless he is to receive some order, in which case he +gets up from his place, and sits down before the chief with his legs +across, which is a posture to which they are so much accustomed, that +any other mode of sitting is disagreeable to them.[189] To speak to +the king standing, would be accounted here as a striking mark of +rudeness, as it would be with us, for one to sit down and put on his +hat, when he addresses himself to his superior, and that superior on +his feet and uncovered.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 189: This is peculiar to the men; the women +always sitting with both legs thrown a little on one side. We owe +this remark to Captain King.--D]</blockquote> + +<p>It does not, indeed, appear that any of the most civilized nations +have ever exceeded this people in the great order observed on all +occasions, in ready compliance with the commands of their chiefs; and +in the harmony that subsists throughout all ranks, and unites them, +as if they were all one man, informed with, and directed by the same +principle. Such a behaviour is remarkably obvious, whenever it is +requisite that their chiefs should harangue any body of them +collected together, which is frequently done. The most profound +silence and attention is observed during the harangue, even to a much +greater degree than is practised amongst us, on the most interesting +and serious deliberations of our most respectable assemblies. And +whatever might have been the subject of the speech delivered, we +never saw an instance, when any individual present shewed signs of +his being displeased, or that indicated the least inclination to +dispute the declared will of a person who had a right to command. +Nay, such is the force of these verbal laws, as I may call them, that +I have seen one of their chiefs express his being astonished, at a +person's having acted contrary to such orders, though it appeared, +that the poor man could not possibly have been informed in time to +have observed them.[190]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 190: Cantava gives us the same account of the +profound submission of the Caroline islanders, to the orders of the +<i>Tamole</i>. "Ils reçoivent ses ordres avec le plus profond +respect. Ses paroles sont autant d'oracles, qu' on +revere."--<i>Lettres Edifiantes & Curieuses</i>, tom. xv. p. +312.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>Though some of the more potent chiefs may vie with the king in +point of actual possessions, they fall very short in rank, and in +certain marks of respect, which the collective body have agreed to +pay the monarch. It is a particular privilege annexed to his +sovereignty, not to be punctured nor circumcised, as all his subjects +are. Whenever he walks out, every one whom he meets must sit down +till he has passed. No one is allowed to be over his head; on the +contrary, all must come under his feet, for there cannot be a greater +outward mark of submission, than that which is paid to the sovereign, +and other great people of these islands, by their inferiors. The +method is this; the person who is to pay obeisance, squats down +before the chief, and bows the head to the sole of his foot, which, +when he sits, is so placed, that it can be easily come at, and having +tapped, or touched it with the under and upper side of the fingers of +both hands, he rises up and retires. It should seem that the king +cannot refuse any one who chooses to pay him this homage, which is +called <i>moe moea</i>; for the common people would frequently take +it into their heads to do it when he was walking, and he was always +obliged to stop, and hold up one of his feet behind him, till they +had performed the ceremony. This, to a heavy unwieldy man, like +Poulaho, must be attended with some trouble and pain; and I have +sometimes seen him make a run, though very unable, to get out of the +way, or to reach a place where he might conveniently sit down. The +hands, after this application of them to the chief's feet, are, in +some cases, rendered useless for a time; for, until they be washed, +they must not touch any kind of food. This interdiction, in a country +where water is so scarce, would seem to be attended with some +inconvenience, but they are never at a loss for a succedaneum; and a +piece of any juicy plant, which they can easily procure immediately, +being rubbed upon them, this serves for the purpose of purification, +as well as washing them with water. When the hands are in this state, +they call it <i>taboo rema</i>. <i>Taboo</i>, in general, signifies +forbidden, and <i>rema</i> is their word for hand.</p> + +<p>When the <i>taboo</i> is incurred, by paying obeisance to a great +personage, it is thus easily washed off. But, in some other cases, it +must necessarily continue for a certain time. We have frequently seen +women, who have been <i>taboo rema</i>, fed by others. At the +expiration of the time, the interdicted person washes herself in one +of their baths, which are dirty holes, for the most part, of brackish +water. She then waits upon the king, and, after making her obeisance +in the usual way, lays hold of his foot and applies it to her breast, +shoulders, and other parts of her body. He then embraces her on each +shoulder, after which she retires, purified from her uncleanness. I +do not know that it is always necessary to come to the king for this +purpose, though Omai assured me it was. If this be so, it may be one +reason why he is, for the most part, travelling from island to +island. I saw this ceremony performed by him two or three times, and +once by Feenou, to one of his own women; but as Omai was not then +with me, I could not ask the occasion.</p> + +<p><i>Taboo</i>, as I have before observed, is a word of an extensive +signification. Human sacrifices are called <i>tangata taboo</i>; and +when any thing is forbidden to be eat, or made use of, they say, that +is <i>taboo</i>. They tell us, that if the king should happen to go +into a house belonging to a subject, that house would be +<i>taboo</i>, and could never be more inhabited by the owner; so that +wherever he travels, there are particular houses for his reception. +Old Toobou at this time presided over the <i>taboo</i>, that is, if +Omai comprehended the matter rightly, he and his deputies inspected +all the produce of the island, taking care that every man should +cultivate and plant his quota, and ordering what should he eat, and +what not. By this wise regulation, they effectually guard against a +famine; a sufficient quantity of ground is employed in raising +provisions, and every article thus raised, is secured from +unnecessary waste.</p> + +<p>By another prudent regulation in their government, they have an +officer over the police, or something like it. This department, when +we were amongst them, was administered by Feenou, whose business, we +were told, it was to punish all offenders, whether against the state, +or against individuals. He was also generalissimo, and commanded the +warriors when called out upon service; but by all accounts this is +very seldom. The king frequently took some pains to inform us of +Feenou's office; and, among other things, told us, that if he himself +should become a bad man, Feenou would kill him. What I understood by +this expression of being a bad man, was, that if he did not govern +according to law, or custom, Feenou would be ordered, by the other +great men, or the people at large, to put him to death. There should +seem to be no doubt, that a sovereign thus liable to be controuled, +and punished for an abuse of power, cannot be called a despotic +monarch.</p> + +<p>When we consider the number of islands that compose this little +state, and the distance at which some of them lie from the seat of +government, attempts to throw off the yoke, and to acquire +independency, it should seem, might be apprehended. But they tell us +that this never happens. One reason why they are not thus disturbed, +by domestic quarrels, may be this: That all the powerful chiefs, as +we have already mentioned, reside at Tongataboo. They also secure the +dependence of the other islands, by the celerity of their operations; +for if, at any time, a troublesome and popular man should start up in +any of them, Feenou, or whoever holds his office, is immediately +dispatched thither to kill him. By this means, they crush a rebellion +in its very infancy.</p> + +<p>The orders, or classes, amongst their chiefs, or those who call +themselves such, seemed to be almost as numerous as amongst us; but +there are few, in comparison, that are lords of large districts of +territory, the rest holding their lands under those principal barons, +as they may be called. I was indeed told, that when a man of property +dies, everything he leaves behind him falls to the king; but that it +is usual to give it to the eldest son of the deceased, with an +obligation to make a provision out of it for the rest of the +children. It is not the custom here, as at Otaheite, for the son, the +moment he is born, to take from the father the homage and title, but +he succeeds to them at his decease, so that their form of government +is not only monarchical, but hereditary.</p> + +<p>The order of succession to the crown has not been of late +interrupted; for we know, from a particular circumstance, that the +Futtafaihes (Poulaho being only an addition to distinguish the king +from the rest of the family) have reigned in a direct line, for at +least one hundred and thirty-five years. Upon enquiring, whether any +account had been preserved amongst them, of the arrival of Tasman's +ships, we found that this history had been handed down to them from +their ancestors, with an accuracy which marks, that oral tradition +may sometimes be depended upon. For they described the two ships as +resembling ours, mentioning the place where they had anchored, their +having staid but a few days, and their moving from that station to +Annamooka. And by way of informing us how long ago this had happened, +they told us the name of the Futtafaihe who was then king, and of +those who had succeeded, down to Poulaho, who is the fifth since that +period, the first being an old man at the time of the arrival of the +ships.</p> + +<p>From what has been said of the present king, it would be natural +to suppose, that he had the highest rank of any person in the +islands. But, to our great surprise, we found it is not so; for +Latoolibooloo, the person who was pointed out to me as king, when I +first visited Tongataboo, and three women, are, in some respects, +superior to Poulaho himself. On our enquiring who these extraordinary +personages were, whom they distinguish by the name and title of +Tammaha?[191] we were told, that the late king, Poulaho's father, had +a sister of equal rank, and elder than himself; that she, by a man +that came from the island of Feejee, had a son and two daughters, and +that these three persons, as well as their mother, rank above +Futtafaihe the king.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 191: The reader need not be reminded that +Tamoloa, which signifies a chief, in the dialect of Hamao, and +Tammaha, become the same word, by the change of a single letter, the +articulation of which is not very strongly marked.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>We endeavoured, in vain, to trace the reason of this singular +pre-eminence of the <i>Tammahas</i>, for we could learn nothing +besides this account of their pedigree. The mother, and one of the +daughters called Tooeela-kaipa, live at Vavaoo. Latoolibooloo, the +son, and the other daughter, whose name is Moungoula-kaipa, reside at +Tongataboo. The latter is the woman who is mentioned to have dined +with me on the 21st of June. This gave occasion to our discovering +her superiority over the king, who would not eat in her presence, +though she made no scruple to do so before him, and received from him +the customary obeisance, by touching her foot. We never had an +opportunity of seeing him pay this mark of respect to Latoolibooloo, +but we have observed him leave off eating, and have his victuals put +aside, when the latter came into the same house. Latoolibooloo +assumed the privilege of taking any thing from the people, even if it +belonged to the king; and yet, in the ceremony called <i>Natche</i>, +he assisted only in the same manner as the other principal men. He +was looked upon, by his countrymen, as a madman; and many of his +actions seemed to confirm this judgment. At Eooa, they shewed me a +good deal of land said to belong to him; and I saw there a son of +his, a child, whom they distinguished by the same title as his +father. The son of the greatest prince in Europe could not be more +humoured and caressed than this little <i>Tammaha</i> was.</p> + +<p>The language of the Friendly Islands has the greatest affinity +imaginable to that of New Zealand, of Wateeoo, and Mangeea; and, +consequently, to that of Otaheite and the Society Islands. There are +also many of their words the same with those used by the natives of +Cocos Island, as appears from the vocabulary collected there by Le +Maire and Schouten.[192] The mode of pronunciation differs, indeed, +considerably, in many instances, from that both of New Zealand and +Otaheite, but still a great number of words are either exactly the +same, or so little changed, that their common original may be +satisfactorily traced. The language, as spoken at the Friendly +Islands, is sufficiently copious for all the ideas of the people; and +we had many proofs of its being easily adapted to all musical +purposes, both in song and in recitative, besides being harmonious +enough in common conversation. Its component parts, as far as our +scanty acquaintance with it enabled us to judge, are not numerous; +and, in some of its rules, it agrees with other known languages. As +for instance, we could easily discern the several degrees of +comparison, as used in the Latin, but none of the inflections of +nouns and verbs.</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 192: See this vocabulary, at the end of vol. +ii. of Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages. And yet, though Tasman's +people used the words of this vocabulary in speaking to the natives +of Tongataboo, (his Amsterdam,) we are told, in the accounts of his +voyage, that they did not understand one another;--a circumstance +worth observing, as it shews how cautious we should be, upon the +scanty evidence afforded by such transient visits as Tasman's, and, +indeed, as those of most of the subsequent navigators of the Pacific +Ocean, to found any argument about the affinity, or want of affinity, +of the languages of the different islands. No one, now, will venture +to say, that a Cocos man, and one of Tongataboo, could not understand +each other. Some of the words of Horn Island, another of Schouten's +discoveries, also belong to the dialect of Tongataboo.--See +Dalrymple, as above.--D.]</blockquote> + +<p>We were able to collect several hundreds of the words; and, +amongst these, are terms that express numbers as far as a hundred +thousand, beyond which they never would reckon. It is probable, +indeed, that they are not able to go farther; for, after having got +thus far, we observed, that they commonly used a word which expresses +an indefinite number. A short specimen, selected from the larger +vocabulary, is here inserted, with the corresponding words, of the +same signification, as used at Otaheite, on the opposite column; +which, while it will give, as we may say, ocular demonstration of +their being dialects of the same language, will, at the same time, +point out the particular letters, by the insertion, omission, or +alteration of which, the variations of the two dialects, from each +other, have been effected.</p> + +<p>It must be observed, however, that our vocabularies of this sort +must necessarily be liable to great mistakes. The ideas of those, +from whom we were to learn the words, were so different from ours, +that it was difficult to fix them to the object of enquiry. Or, if +this could be obtained, to learn an unknown tongue from an instructor +who did not know a single word of any language that his scholar was +conversant with, could not promise to produce much. But even when +these difficulties were surmounted, there still remained a fruitful +source of mistake, I mean, inaccuracy in catching exactly the true +sound of a word, to which our ears had never been accustomed, from +persons whose mode of pronunciation was, in general, so indistinct, +that it seldom happened that any two of us, in writing down the fame +word, from the same mouth, made use of the same vowels in +representing it. Nay, we even, very commonly, differed about +consonants, the sounds of which are least liable to ambiguity. +Besides all this, we found, by experience, that we had been led into +strange corruptions of some of the most common words, either from the +natives endeavouring to imitate us, or from our having misunderstood +them. Thus, <i>cheeto</i> was universally used by us, to express a +thief, though totally different from the real word, in the language +of Tongataboo. The mistake arose from a prior one, into which we had +run, when at New Zealand. For though the word that signifies thief +there, be absolutely the same that belongs to the dialect of the +Friendly Islands, (being <i>kaeehaa</i> at both places,) yet by some +blunder, we had used the word <i>teete</i>, first at New Zealand, and +afterwards at Tongataboo, on our arrival there. The natives, +endeavouring to imitate us as nearly as they could, and so +fabricating the word <i>cheeto</i>; this, by a complication of +mistakes, was adopted by us as their own. Great care has been taken +to make the following table as correct as possible:--</p> + +<pre> + English. <i>Friendly Islands. Otaheite</i>. + <i>The sun</i>, Elaa, Eraa. + <i>Fire</i>, Eafoi, Eahoi. + <i>Thunder</i>, Fatoore, Pateere. + <i>Rain</i>, Ooha, Eooa. + <i>The wind</i>, Matangee, Mataee. + <i>Warm</i>, Mafanna, Mahanna. + <i>The clouds</i>, Ao, Eao. + <i>Land</i>, Fonooa, Fenooa. + <i>Water</i>, Avy, Evy. + <i>Sleep</i>, Mohe, Moe. + <i>A man</i>, Tangata, Taata. + <i>A woman</i>, Vefaine, Waheine. + <i>A young girl</i>, Taheine, Toonea. + + <i>A servant</i>, or Tooa, Toutou, or teou. + <i>person of mean rank</i>, + + <i>The dawn</i>, or Aho Aou. + <i>daybreak</i>, + + English. <i>Friendly Islands. Otaheite</i>. + <i>The hair</i>, Fooroo, Eroroo. + <i>The tongue</i>, Elelo, Erero. + <i>The ear</i>, Tareenga, Tareea. + <i>The beard</i>, Koomoo, Ooma. + <i>The sea</i>, Tahee, Taee. + <i>A boat</i>, or <i>canoe</i>, Wakka, Evaa. + <i>Black</i>, Oole, Ere. + <i>Red</i>, Goola, Oora, oora. + <i>A lance</i>, or <i>spear</i>, Tao, Tao. + <i>A parent</i>, Motooa, Madooa. + <i>What is that</i>? Kohaeea? Yahaeea? + <i>To hold fast</i>, Amou, Mou. + + <i>To wipe</i> or <i>clean</i> Horo, Haroee. + <i>any thing</i>, + + <i>To rise up</i>, Etoo, Atoo. + <i>To cry</i>, or <i>shed tears</i>, Tangee, Taee. + <i>To eat</i>, or <i>chew</i>, Eky, Ey. + <i>Yes</i>, Ai, Ai. + <i>No</i>, Kaee, Aee. + <i>You</i>, Koe, Oe. + <i>I</i>, Ou, Wou. + <i>Ten</i>, Ongofooroo, Ahooroo. +</pre> + +<p>Having now concluded my remarks on these islands and people, I +shall take my final leave of them, after giving some account of the +astronomical and nautical observations that were made during our +stay.</p> + +<p>And, first, I must take notice, that the difference of longitude, +between Annamooka and Tongataboo, is somewhat less than was marked in +the chart and narrative of my last voyage. This error might easily +arise, as the longitude of each was then found without any connection +with the other. But now the distance between them is determined to a +degree of precision, that excludes all possibility of mistake, which +the following table will illustrate:--</p> + +<pre> + The latitude of the observatory at Tongataboo, + by the mean of several observations 21° 8' 19"S. + + The longitude, by the mean of one hundred + and thirty-one sets of lunar observations, + amounting to above a + thousand observed distances, between + the moon, son, and stars 184° 55' 88"E. + + The difference of longitude, made by + the time-keeper, between the above + observatory and that at Anamooka 0 16 0 + + Hence, the longitude of Annamooka is 185 11 18 E. + By the time {Greenwich rate 186 12 27 + keeper it is {New Zealand rate 184 37 0 + Its latitude 20 15 0 +</pre> + +<p>N.B. The observatory at Tongataboo was near the middle of the N. +side of the island, and that at Annamooka on its W. side.</p> + +<p>The time-keeper was too slow for mean time at Greenwich, on the +first of July at noon, by 12h 34m 23',2; and her daily rate, at that +time, was losing on mean time 1',783 per day. This rate will now be +used for finding the longitude by the time-keeper, and 184° 55' +18", or 12h 19m 41',2, will be taken as the true longitude of +Tongataboo, E. from. Greenwich.</p> + +<p>By the mean of several observations, the S. end of the needle was +found to dip,</p> + +<pre> + At Leefooga, one of the Hepaee islands 36° 55' + Tongataboo 39 1 1/2 + The variation of the compass was found to be + + At Annamooka, on board 0° 30' 3 1/2"E, + Anchor off Kotoo, between Annamooka + and Hepaee 0 12 29 1/2 + Anchor off Leefooga 10 11 40 + Tongataboo, on board 9 44 5 1/2 + Ditto, on shore 10 12 58 +</pre> + +<p>I can assign no reason why the variation is so much less at and +near Annamooka, than at either of the two places. I can only say, +that there is no fault in the observations; and that the variation +ought to be more at Annamooka than the above, as it has been found to +be so to the northward, southward, eastward, and westward of it. But +disagreements in the variation, greater than this, even in the same +needle, have been often observed. And I should not have taken notice +of this instance, but from a belief that the cause, whatever it is, +exists in the place, and not in the needles, for Mr Bayley found the +same, or rather more difference.</p> + +<p>The tides are more considerable at these islands, than at any +other of my discoveries in this ocean, that lie within the tropics. +At Annamooka it is high water, on the full and change days, nearly at +six o'clock; and the tide rises and falls there, upon a +perpendicular, about six feet. In the harbour of Tongataboo, it is +high water on the full and change days, at fifty minutes past six. +The tide rises and falls on those days, four feet nine inches, and +three feet six inches at the Quadratures. In the channels between the +islands, which lie in this harbour, it flows near tide and half-tide, +that is, the flood continues to run up near three hours, after it is +high water by the shore, and the ebb continues to run down, after it +is flood by the shore. It is only in these channels, and in a few +other places near the shores, that the motion of the water or tide is +perceivable, so that I can only guess at the quarter from which the +flood comes. In the road of Annamooka, it sets W.S.W., and the ebb +the contrary; but it falls into the harbour of Tongataboo from the +N.W., passes through the two narrow channels, on each side of +Hoolaiva, where it runs with considerable rapidity, and then spends +itself in the <i>lagoon</i>. The ebb returns the same way, and runs +with rather greater force. The N.W. tide is met, at the entrance of +the <i>lagoon</i>, by one from the E.; but this, as I have before +observed, was found to be very inconsiderable.[193]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 193: Tongataboo has been visited several times +by Europeans since Cook's last voyage, viz. by Perouse, in 1787; by +Captain Edwards, in 1791; by D'Entrecasteaux, in 1793; and by some of +the missionaries, in 1797. From the accounts furnished by some of +these visits, several particulars might have been added to what has +now been delivered. But they are comparatively unimportant, and did +not seem to warrant any specific regard. Besides, if they had been +more considerable, it would have been improper to anticipate what +belongs to another part of our work. On the whole, however, the +information given by Captain Cook, and his associate Mr Anderson, +will ever be esteemed a faithful and very valuable description of an +interesting island and people.--E.]</blockquote> + +<pre> +A VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE FRIENDLY ISLES, + +May, etc. 1777. + +Friendly Isles. English. + Ve faine, A woman. + Maiee, Bread-fruit. + Fukkaton, Barter. + Woa, Admiration. + My, fogge, Good. + Attahoa, A bead; a necklace. + Koehau, or Kohaeea? What is that? or what is the + name of it? + Magoo, Give me. + Le laiee, Good. + Hou, Come here. + Moree, A shaddock. + Omee, Give me. + Hobba, A sort of plantain. + Koajee, or Kaoojee, Done; finished. + Koeea, Yes; it is so. + Amou, Got; to holdfast. + Horo, horo, A handkerchief, or wiper. + Ongofooroo, Ten. + Gehai, or geefai, There; and that. + + Friendly Isles. English. + Kato, A basket. + Egeeai, A mat they wear round them. + Fooroo, or fooloo, Hair. + Fooee vy, The leg. + Tooa, vy, Upperpart of the foot. + Fooloo, fooloo, matta, The eyebrow. + Emamae, Painted plantains. + Evatta vatta, The breast. + Eboore, Ditto. + Etooa, The back. + Erongootoo, The lips. + Elelo, The tongue. + Edainga, The thigh. + Eraimoo, The hips. + Evae, veene, The arm pit. + Too, The finger. + Vakka, vakka, The side. + Hekaite, The belly. + Tareenga, The ear. + Horo, To wipe. + Kouta, Beating with two sticks. + Fangoo, fangoo, A flute. + Motoo, To break. + Koooma, Burnt circular marks. + Taffa, Raised marks burnt. + Kowy, The cheeks. + Koomoo, koomoo, The beard. + Peeto, The navel, + Eoo, The nipple. + Etarre, To cough, + Hengatoo, Cloth. + Efangoo, To sneeze. + Eanoo, To spit. + Etoogee, To beat, or strike. + Etooee, The elbow. + Efeelo, A small rope, or thread. + Haro, or halo, Go; begone. + Egeea, The throat. + Eky, To eat, or chew. + Evagoo, To scratch. + Ma matta, Let me look, or see. + Egeea, The neck. + + Friendly Isles. English. + Enofoa, haioo, A seat. + Etoo, To rise up. + Mamao, To yawn. + Ehapee, A box, or chest. + Moe, or mohe, Sleep. + Tangooroo, To snore. + Ekatta, To laugh. + Akka, To kick, or stamp. + Feedjee, A fillup. + Ekakava, Sweat. + Eeoho, To bellow, or cry. + Epooo, A post, or staunchion. + Etolle, A hatchet. + Maalava, To breathe. + Haila, To pant. + Oooo, To bite. + Taffa, To cut. + Moevae, The heel. + Eeegoo, The tail of a dog. + Mapoo, To whistle, + Aipa, A fishing-hook. + Ainga, A sort of paint. + Evaika, A rail. + Kooroo kooroo, A green dove. + Ekoopamea, cheele, A net. + Efooo, A gimlet, or shark's tooth used + for that purpose. + Aiee, A fan. + Emaimeea, or meemeea, A reed, or small organ. + Eneeoo, A cocoa-nut. + Eoono, Tortoise shell. + Enoo, A belt. + Afooneema, The palm of the hand. + Moemoeea, A ceremony of putting the foot + of one on the head, and turning + the hand several times, etc. + Pooa, tareenga, A sort of plantains. + Kahaoo hoonga, An arrow, or reed. + Atoe farre, The roof of a house. + Etovee, A club. + Emamma, A ring. + Eao, A hat. + + Friendly Isles English. + Tehou, A hundred. + Keeroo, A thousand. + Laoo varee, Ten thousand. + Laoo noa, A hundred thousand, or the + greatest number they can reckon. + Poooree, Night; darkness. + Maheena, A month. + Fukkataane, To sit cross-legged. + Kaffa, A rope, or cord of cocoa-nut + core. + Heegee, To lift up. + Togoo, To set down, + Fetooa tagee, To tie. + Vevaite, To untie, + Tollo, tolla, Cocoa-nut skin. + Eooma, The shoulder. + Fooo, A nail (of iron). + Atoo, To give. + Epallo, A rat. + Elafo, To throw away. + Haaile, To go. + Haaile atoo, To go away. + Haaile my, To come. + Elooa, To puke. + Matangee, Wind. + Mamma, or mamma, reeva, Light. + Tahee, The sea. + Paho paho, To paddle. + Hakaoo, or toree, Wood; a tree. + Ehoreeoo, To scoop water out of a boat. + Booloo booloo, A sail. + Fanna, or fanna tooeeoroongo A Mast + Toula, A hook. + Tamadje, A child. + Tangee, To weep. + Elango, A fly. + Haingoo, toolaiee, A tropic-bird. + Epalla A bird's tail. + Kapukou, A wing. + Hepoona, To fly. + + Friendly Isles. English. + Togotto To lie down, + Feenakka, A bird cage. + Eallo, The rolling of a ship. + Etooee, A needle. + Epeepeege, A girl that is a maid. + Efonno, A turtle. + Maia, A thing. + Mahee maia, Give me something. + Koeea, Yes, it is. + Geelee, A file. + Owo, Wait a little. + Temadoo, Shall I come? + Kaee, or Eekaee, No. + Kafae, A blue coat. + Oloonga, A stool. + Takkabou, A coarse mat to sleep upon. + Kakulla, A sweet smell, sweet smelled. + Namooa, To smell; smell it. + Koe, It is; as Koe maa, it is food; + Koe maiee, it is fruitful. + Koatoooo, A king-fisher. + Mogo, A lizard. + Toutou, A card. + Matte laiva, Dead. + Moeha, More. + Veenaga, Fine, charming, wonderful. + Tougge my, Bring it here. + Ai, (long,) angrily, No. + Tamma, Boy, man, friend, calling to one. + Eeekoou, Here am I; answering one who + calls. + Haloo, Go; to go. + Hengalo, At a distance, a great way off. + Eafee, or Eafoi, Hire. + Yehaeea, (inquisitively,) What is that? + Kohaee koa, or kowykoa, What is your name? + Kovee, or Koveeeea, Bad. + Bongee, bongee, To-morrow. + Peepee, A pair of scissors. + Chenna, Friend, I say; hark ye. + Geelee, or geeree, The skin. + Etchee, To peel a cocoa-nut. + + Friendly Isles. English. + Taha pai, One thing, as a day, etc. + Totto, Blood. + Roatoo, Shall I go. + Whakae, Look, see. + Whakae my, Let me see it. + Arooweevo, Below; to let down a rope, or + to go down over the ship's side + to trade. + Aingy, Large clams, or cockles. + Beegee, A chief. + Eatooa, God. + A bo, To-night, at night. + Any, Presently, by and by. + Elangee, The sky. + Elaa, The sun. + Ao, Clouds. + Jeela, A canoe's yard. + Laa, A sail. + Falle wakaeea, The hut in a large canoe. + Faee, To play. + Tallafoo, The fire-place in a large boat. + Goolee, A sort of windlass, or belaying + place for the rope of their + sail. + Tataa, A scoop for bailing out a boat. + Taia, White. + Oolee, Black. + Goola, Red. + Ohooafee, Smoke. + Geeai, A close kind of mat. + Fofooa, Pimples. + Maaloonga, High, mountainous. + Mai, Motions with the hands in dancing. + Touvaa, A cap, or bonnet, they wear to + shade them from the sun. + Majeela, A large bamboo fishing-rod. + Pai, A thing. + Mamahee, Pain. + Echee, or eeke, Small, little. + Cheeatta, A looking-glass. + Tangameeme, A bladder. + + Friendly Isles, English. + Goobainga, A fishing-net. + Elillo, Below, underneath. + Faee, To shave. + Motooa, A parent. + Moumy, To paddle, or row. + Avy, ava, or govy, A harbour, or + anchoring-place. + Po, taha, pai, In one day. + Ebaika, A large bat. + Kakaa, A parrot. + Tooge, Marks on the cheek, + made by beating. + Nono, To hide a thing. + Fonooa, or Kaeenga, Land. + Beeoo, A palm which bean clusters of + very small nuts. + Haoomoo, A large blunt sort of plantains. + Goolo, A globular earthen pot, + or vessel. + Manga, mangatei, A large blue star-fish. + Hainga, A parroquet. + Maagonna, Full, satisfied with eating. + Maheena, The moon. + Teeleeamoo, A secret. + Fonooa bou, A land of plenty. + Oobai, A song. + Foolehaioo, The green wattle bird. + Pailoo, A spoon. + Kulle, velaive, A large white spider, with + brown and white legs. + Fageeta, A ceremony of kissing, etc. on a + new acquaintance. + Goomaa, A rat. + Agoota, oomoo, To put a thing in an oven. + Oomoo, An oven. + Eadda, A path. + Mattabaa, A door. + Togga, A large stick used as a bar behind + the door. + Koheeabo, The paper mulberry-plant. + Faa, Palm, called Pandanas. + Tangata, or tangatta, A man. + Taheina, A child. + + Friendly Isles. English. + Onne, onne, White sand. + Pai, Ripe, old. + Ea, A fence made of bamboo, etc. + Toee, The wood which they make their + canoes of. + Mafaee, Wasp's nests built in the pod of + a plant. + Kappe, A large cylindrical edible root. + Ongo, ongo, A small palm growing to the + height of eight feet. + Gooholla, It is gone, or flown. + Mai, kawaia, To take away a thing. + Mai, Evaheeoo, To let a thing remain. + Kaeenga, Land, or property the shore. + Fyatooka, A burying-place. + Woee, Admiration. + Koeee, A fan. + Waggee hou, Let it alone. + Bai, Great. + Laika, laika, Good. + Ooo, A crayfish. + Feengafee, A black and white mat. + Aingatooeea, Stained red rushes, which they + wear round the waist. + An, any, A little while ago. + Hengatoo, Glazed cloth which they wear. + Falla, A thick strong mat. + Mahagee, A sort of ulcer, that leaves large + laced scars. + Akkaree, A stool to lay the head on when + asleep. + Naffa, A large cylindrical piece of wood, + hollowed with a slit, which + serves as a drum. + Toa, A spear. + Etanno, To bury under ground. + Afai, When. + Otoogoo, Finished. + Maree, or mareeai, Well done; an acclamation. + Fafa, To carry one on the back. + Mamao, A great way; distant. + Meedje, meedje, To drink out of a cocoa-nut. + + Friendly Isles. English. + Matta, The face. + Ty, or Etae, Excrement. + Faitanoo, A sort of pepper-tree, the juice + of which is very acrid. + Nafee, nafee, A fine white sort of mat. + Abee, A house to sleep in. + Touaa, A square bonnet. + Fukke, fety, To give a thing gratis, or for + friendship's sake. + Tooa, or Tooaeea, A servant, or person of inferior + rank. + Fukkatooa, A challenging motion, made by + striking the hand on the bend + of the opposite arm. + Kaeehya, or kaeehaa, A thief. + Fooloo, A quill. + Moojeekakka, A basket made of cocoa-nut core, + and white beads. + Mahanga, A brother. + Macele, An odoriferous shrub, planted + near the Fyatooka. + Fofolla, To unfold a piece of cloth. + Kotjee, None. + Taboone, To close, or shut; a partition + or skreen. + Too, To draw back a curtain, or + skreen. + Ava, A window; hole. + Fonooa, foohoo, A land of warriors. + Taboo, Not to touch a thing. + Goomoo; goomoo, A species of lichen, that grows + plentifully on some trees. + Laiva, For good and all; certainly. + Bagooee, A prickly star-fish. + Bedjeeloa, A crab, with black claws. + Fae, A sister. + Makka fatoo, Coral rock. + Gailee, gailee, Dirt. + Maa, Clean. + Ma, tagge tagge, Let me look at it. + Konna, Poison. + Fekaee, or smalte, fekaee. Hunger. + + Friendly Isles, English. + Matte, fee aeenoo, Thirst. + Aieenoo, To drink. + Awhainne, Near at hand. + Monoo, An expression of thanks. + Mattahoa, Very good. + Toooa, Both, we; both of us. + Fooa, repeated, A great number. + Boola, Small white shells. + Anoo, anoo, To swim. + Anga, A man. + Haile, A knife. + Haile, fofoo, A knife that shuts. + Adoo, Give it; to give. + Geehea, Which, or what. + Tohagge, Let me look at, or see it. + Namoogoo, A stink, or bad smell. + Narooo, kakulla, A sweet smell. + Boobooa, tahee, Salt. + Meeme, Urine. + Owo, owo, owo, No, no, no. + Fohee, To peel a plantain. + Ajeeneu, A vessel to put drink in. + Tangee, fe toogee, Striking the cheeks on the death + of their relations. + Mamaha, Coral rock under water. + Oohee, A species of diosma. + Mawhaha, An excellent root like a potatoe. + Baa, A crackling noise; to crack, or + snap. + Boogo, The largest sort of tree in the + islands. + Taifo, A mullet. + Amou, Whole; sound; true; valid. + Faigeeaika, Iambos. + Kakou, A shoal, or reef, on which the + sea breaks. + + Shainga (in the language No; there is none. + of Feejee), + + Fangoo, A small calibash shell. + Oore, oore, Black. + Looloo, An owl. + Murroo, Soft. + + Friendly Isles. English. + Faifaika, Hard. + Feengotta, A sort of shell. + Wouainee, I am here; i.e. when called + upon. + Mahaggee, fatoo, A dropsy. + Goee enee, Near at hand. + Fukka, ma fooa, An arbour in which they catch + pigeons, etc. + Fatooree, Thunder. + A faa, A Storm; lightning. + Toufarre, A besom. + Tongo, A wood, of which bows are made. + Ooha, Rain. + Tooboo, To grow. + Tawagge, totto, The red-tailed tropic bird. + Kadjee, There is no more; or none. + Fanna, fanna, To wash the hands before meals. + Mooonga, Mountains; a mountain. + Keeneeo, Low land. + Laoo allee, A great many; an endless number. + Ogookaee, No; there is none. + Laia, or koelaia, Speech; words. + Kaho, An arrow. + Aieeboo, A vessel, or dish. + Tooee, A club. + Feila, To pull a rope. + Eevee, aai, A cheer, in pulling a rope. + Feilaa too, A word given by one, on pulling + a rope, and the rest repeat + Woa, as a response. + Engago, Fat, or lard of a hog. + Kanno, matte, The lean part of meat. + Kofooa, A kidney. + Kollofeea, The name of the volcano on Tofooa. + Moggocheea, Cold. + Hooa, The going about, or tacking of + a ship. + Ongonna, To understand. + Kaee ongonna, I do not understand you. + Mafanna, Warm. + + Friendly Isles. English. + Anapo, Last night. + Fakkahooa, The southerly wind; or a foul + wind. + Looloo, To roll, as a ship. + Matangee, The wind. + Matangee anga, or} The east and north wind, or a + matangee leeoo, } fair wind. + Amooee, or tamooree, From behind. + Amooa, or tamooa, From before. + Ahaa, or koehaa, For what reason? + Mohe fai, Where shall I sleep? + Koo mafoore, To be along, or yield, as a + ship close hauled. + Palla, Rotten. + Elooa, A hole. + Molle, or molle molle, Smooth. + Keeai, A plant they make mats of; the + cultivated Pandanus. + Tongo laiee, Mangrove. + Reemoo, Sea-weed. + Fety, A term of friendship. + Jeejee, Esculent dracaena. + Taboo laia, Don't speak; hold your tongue. + Toonoa, Dressed, cooked. + Tohke, A measure. + Toohagge, Let me see it. + Taheine, A young girl; a daughter. + Haine, Here. + Baiahou, Swell of the sea. + Maea, A rope. + Otta, Raw; as raw meat. + Moho, Meat well dressed. + Maoo lillo, Low land. + Moanua, Deep water; sea. + Kae haia, Which is it you want? + Vava tahee, Red coral. + Feefy, A species of mimosa. + Fatoo, The belly. + Mee mee, To suck bones. + Meedje meedje, To suck as a child. + Ooree, A rudder. + Tainga, A seed of a plant. + + Friendly Isles, English. + Oolel teffe, Incisions in the foreskin, which + contracting present its covering + the glans. + Vefoo, To Hide a thing. + Laifa, A silver-fish. + Heenaheena, White; yellow. + Feeoo, Acrid; bitter. + Goomo, To look for a thing that is lost. + Eeta, Angry. + Aneafee, Yesterday. + Gefai, Unknown; strange; as a strange + man. + Fono, To eat. + Kailee tokee, A Panama-shell. + Toffe, A sort of hammer oyster. + Toogoo, Let it lie, or remain. + Koehaa, hono, hengoa, What is the name of it? + Loee, To understand. + Booga, To hold fast. + Loloa, Long. + Kotjee, To cut. + Fatjee, To break. + Fohenna, A son; a brother. + Matee, A fig-tree. + Lohee, A lie. + Mato, Steep; high. + Patoo, A stroke; to strike. + Hooho, The breasts. + Momoggo, Cold. + Saiouhai, Admiration. + Noo, Mine; of me. + Valla, A piece of cloth worn round the + waist. + Doooyoo, a matoo, eeoee, A song in favour of a victor. + Mulloo, Serene; settled; smooth. + Vaitte, To untie a thing. + Moheefo, Come down below. + Fetagee; malowhee, To fight. + Tao, A spear. + Eenee, Now; immediately. + Mamanna; au manna manna, Engaged; contracted to. + Fukka, booakka, An epithet of abuse; contempt. + + Friendly Isles. English. + Aleolo, To fan, or cool. + Tammaha, Certain great chiefs. + Tamolao, Chief. + Mahae, A torn hole. + Goefai, What is. + Laoo, To count, or reckon. + Manakko, To give. + Fooo, New; lately made. + Modooa, Old; worn. + Maa, A sour plantain, by being put + under ground. + Kaifoo, A brownish yellow. + Eafee, To play on the flute. + Mou afai, When do you go? + Afaia, How many? + Cheefa, A pearl oyster. + Gooe, goee, A saw shell. + Fotoohoa, A rock oyster. + Ogoo, Of me; belonging to me. + Lelange, To make. + Behange, Let me see it. + Foo, To box. + Heeva, A song, with many women singing + different keys. + Ooloo pokko, The head. + Koukou, To bathe. + Mabba, A three-kernelled nut. + Eelo, To know. + Fotte, fotta, To squeeze gently with the hands. + Fangootooa, Wrestling. + Momoho, Ripe. + Koffe, Bamboo which they beat with on + the ground. + Alla, I say. + Waila, Hot. + Pango, Bad. + Orlongaa, Thread of which they make their + nets, or the plant. + Monee, Truth. + Anga, A shark. + Laffa, Ringworm. + Fooa, Fruit; flower. + + Friendly Isles. English. + Kokka, A tree they stain their cloth + brown with, i. e. the bark. + Moooee, Alive; life; soul; God, or divine + spirit. + Tooo, A tree, with the berries of which + they stain their cloth. + Ogoohaika, Who shall I give this to? Who + shall I help? + Maha, Finished; empty. + Pagge, A little paddle they exercise + with. + Faio, Small-branched coral. + Cheeagge, To throw a thing away. + Faiee tamma, Pregnancy. + Lalanga, To make. + Vao, A wild uncultivated country. + Neeoo goola, Cabbage-tree. + Routte, Hibiscus; rosa sinensis. + Foa, A custom of beating the head + with a tooth till it bleeds. + Cheelee neefo, A custom of beating the teeth on + the same occasion. + Hogga tainga, A custom of thrusting a spear + into their thighs; also a + mourning ceremony. + Toofatao, Thrusting a spear into the sides + under the arm-pits on these + occasions. + Tooengootoo, Doing the same through the + cheeks into the mouth. + Kafoo, The garment they commonly + wear. + Offa, A term of friendship; as, + Taio offa, My friend, I am glad to see + you. + Toofa, To divide, or share out food. + Maeneene, To tickle. + Hailulla, Sarcosma. + Hooo, A wooden instrument with which + they clear away grass from + their fences. + Aho, The dawn, or day-break. + + Friendly Isles. English. + Gooaa, Who is it? + Avo, To go; or take away. + Valle, Mad. + Lelaiee a bee kovee, Is it good, or bad? + Taboonee, To shut, or close. + Taae, To beat, or strike. + Ahae, Who, or where. + Mamaa, Light. + Mamaffa, Heavy. + Faike, A cuttle-fish. + Vai veegoo, Wet; moist. +</pre> + +<p>A VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF ATOOI, ONE OF THE SANDWICH +ISLANDS.</p> + +<p>January, 1778.[194]</p> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 194: This Vocabulary properly belongs to a +subsequent part of the voyage, but is given here for the greater +facility of comparison with the preceding, and as a fit companion +also to that of the Society Isles, inserted in a former part of the +volume.--E.]</blockquote> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<pre> + Atooi. English. + Tehaia, Where. + Mahaia, Ditto. + Aorre, or Aoe, No. + He oho, The hair. + E poo, The head. + Papaiee aoo, The ear. + Heraee, The forehead. + Matta, The eye. + Pappareenga, The cheek. + Haieea, Fish. + Eeeheu, The nose. + Oome oome, The beard. + Haire, To go. + Erawha, Tears of joy. + Aee, The neck. + Poheeve, The arm. + Ooma ooma, The breast. + Heoo, The nipple. + Peeto, The navel. + + Atooi. English, + Hoohaa, The thigh. + He,wawy, The leg. + Eroui, Wait a little. + Areea, Wait a little. + Myao, Finger and toe nails. + Eeno, Bad. + Hootee, hootee, To pluck up, or out. + Tooanna, A brother. + Teina, A younger brother. + Otooma heeva, A man's name. + Nanna, Let me see it. + Noho, To sit. + Hoe, To go. + Hooarra, Sweet potatoes. + E Taeeai, Calling to one. + Waheine, A woman. + Teeorre, To throw away a thing. + He, aieeree, The skin. + Ma, ty ty, To look at, or survey a thing. + Tommomy, Come here. + Erooi, To retch, to puke. + Too, Sugar-cane. + Maa mona, Sweet or savoury food. + Tooharre, To spit. + Matou, I, first person singular. + My, ty, Good. + Otaeaio, } Names of two chiefs. + Terurotoa,} + Oome, A great number. + Poe, Taro pudding. + Oohe, Yams. + Booa, A hog. + Eeneeoo, Cocoa-nuts. + Ono, To understand. + Eetee, To understand, or know. + Otae, A man's name. + Maonna, Full, satisfied with eating. + Owytooehainoa, What is your name? + Tanata, A man. + Tangata, Ditto. + Pahoo, A drum. + Ehoora, A kind of dance. + + Atooi. English. + Maro, A narrow stripe of cloth they + wear. + Hoemy; harremy, To come. + Eroemy, Fetch it here. + Taooa, We, first person plural. + Toura, A rope. + Ooroo, Bread-fruit. + Etee, Dracaena. + Appe, Virginian Arum. + Matte, Dead. + Aoonai, In a short time; presently. + Paha, Perhaps. + Ai, Yes. + Ateera, Done; at an end. + Hevaite, To unfold. + Noona, Above. + Tapaia, To abide; to keep, or restrain + from going. + Poore, A prayer. + Tahouna, A priest. + Atee, To fetch, or bring. + Meeme, To make water. + Ehaia, Where. + Poota, A hole. + Mao, That way. + Mareira, This place. + Eeo, There. + Evaa, A canoe. + Touroonoa, A man's name. + My ty, Let me look. + Aieeboo, A vessel of gourd shell. + Ahewaite, Mullus cretaceus. + Opoore, Sparus parvus punctatus. + Taee, The sea. + Evy, Fresh water. + Aiva, A harbour. + Eerotto, Within, into. + Owyte eree, What is the chief's name? + Toneoneo, A chief's name. + Motoo, To tear, or break. + Toe, A stone adze. + Vaheoo, Let it lie, or remain. + + Atooi. English. + Haieehe, A barbed dart. + Hooroo manoo, Birds' feathers. + Motoo, An island. + Hamoea, A ceremony of clapping the + hands to the head, and prostrating + themselves to the chief. + Worero, Lost; stole. + Aeenoo, To drink. + Tehaia, orooa, Where are you? + Ou, I, first person singular. + Eunai, Here; at this place. + Pororee, Hunger; hungry. + Hereema, A species of Sida. + Meere, meere, To look at, or behold. + Moa, A fowl. + Manoo, A bird. + Dirro, Below. + Modooa, tanne, Father. + Modooa, waheme, Mother. + Naiwe, nawie, Pleasant; agreeable. + Hai raa, The sun. + Hairanee, The sky. + Abobo, To-morrow. + Heaho, A small rope. + Tereira, There; that way. + Pymy, Throw it here. + Ewououtte, Morus Papyrif. + Moe, To sleep. + Nooe, Large. + Poowha, To yawn. + Ahaia, When; at what time. + Wehai, To uncover and undo a thing. + Tooto, A small straw rope. + Eaha, nai, What is this? + Maeea, Plantains. + Parra, Ripe; as, ripe fruit. + Toe, toe, Cold. + Matanee, The wind. + Etoo, To rise up. + Haireetoo, To go there. + Hoatoo, To give. + + Atooi. English. + Eeapo, Night. + Eahoiahoi, Evening. + Oora, Red feathers. + Teehe, A present of cloth. + Herairemy, A place on which fruit is laid as + an offering to God. + Henananoo, A square pile of wicker-work, + or religious obelisk. + Hereeere, A burying-ground. + Eteepappa, The inside of a burying-ground. + Harre, A house. + Harre pahoo, A drum-house in a burying-ground. + Heneene, A wall, the wall of a burying-ground. + Heho, A stone set up in a burying-ground, + consecrated to the + Deity. + Eatooa, A god. + Tangaroa, The name of the god of the place + we were at. + None, Morinda citrifolia. + Hereanee, Small twig things in a burying-ground. + Hemanaa, A house, or hut, where they + bury their dead. + Herooanoo, Wooden images in a burying-house. + Tooraipe, A kind of head-dress, or helmet + on an image. + Eahoi, Hire. + Pohootoo noa, A cream-coloured whet-stone. + Poota paire, A district, at the western part of + the isle. + Eonnotaine, A short cloak of black and white + feathers. + Ottahoinoo, One article, or thing. + Epappa, A board used to swim upon. + Oneete, A kind of cloth. + Heorro taire, A small scarlet bird, or merops + scarlatina. + Taa, An interjection of admiration. + + Atooi. English. + Epoo, A bracelet of a single shell. + Eou, To swim. + Tearre, Gardenia, or Cape Jasmine. + Heoudoo, A refusal; I will not do it, or + take that for this. + + Eeorre, A rat. + Ehooo, A gimblet, or any instrument to + bore with. + Epaoo, or ooapa, There is no more; it is done, or + finished. + Matou, A particular sort of fish-hook. + Erahoi, dehoi, Thin; as, thin cloth, board, etc. + Pattahaee, or he roui,A sort of musical instrument or + rattle, ornamented with red + feathers. + Eappanai, A plume of feathers they wear. + Etooo, The Cordia sebestina. + Whatte, To break. + Oeea, Yes; it is so. + Heoreeoree, A song. + Paraoo, A wooden bowl. + Apooava, A shallow wooden dish they + drink Ava out of. + Etoohe, toohee, A particular sort of cloth. + Ootee, or otee, otee, To cut. + Pappaneeheomano, A wooden instrument beset with + shark's teeth, used to cut up + those they kill. + Maheine, A wife. + Homy, Give me. + Moena, or moenga, A mat to sleep on. + Eeno, An adjunct, when they express + any thing good, though by + itself, it signifies bad. Thus + they say, Erawha eeno, good + greeting, as the Otaheitans + say, Ehoa eeno, or my good + friend. + Taboo, or tafoo, Any thing not to be touched, as + being forbid. This is an example + that shews the transmutation + of the H, F, and B, + + Atooi. English. + into each other. Thus at Otaheite + yams are oohe, at Tonga + oofe, at New Caledonia + oobe; and here taboo is tafoo. + Maooa, I, first person singular. + Heno, Little rods, about five feet long, + with a tuft of hair on the small end. + Patae, Salt. + Aheia, A round pearl-shell. + Teanoo, The cold arising from being in + the water. + Tammata, The sense of taste. + Ootoo, A louse. + Ehone, To salute by applying one nose + to the other. Ehogge at New + Zealand, and Ehoe at Otaheite. + My, A sore of any kind. + Oura, or ouraa, Cured; recovered; alive; well. + Mango, A shark. + Te and he, The. + Heneeoohe, An instrument made of a shark's + tooth fixed on a wooden handle, + to cut with. + Eea, An adjunct, as at Otaheite, to + give strength to an expression. + Paoo roa, Quite done; finished. + Ee, At. + Taira, That; the other. + Ahoo aura, Red cloth. + Henaro, A fly. + Ehateinoa, What is the name of that? + Heweereweere, An outrigger of a canoe. + Mawaihe, The sail of a canoe. + Eheou, The mast of a canoe. + Hetoa, The yard of a sail. + Ooamou, Fast; secure; sound; whole. + Hono, To go; to move. + Matou, Fear. + Pooa, An arrow. + + Atooi. English. + Teeto, A bow. + Epaee, Wooden bowls made from the Etoo. + Ohe, Bamboo. + Henaroo, The swell of the sea. + Motoo, land. + Ehetoo, A star. + Marama, The moon. + Ouameeta, A man's name. +</pre> + +<p>Numerals to Ten, as at Otaheite</p> + +<h2>END OF VOLUME FIFTEENTH.</h2> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14611 ***</div> +</body> +</html> + |