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diff --git a/14600-h/14600-h.htm b/14600-h/14600-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..23c9969 --- /dev/null +++ b/14600-h/14600-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,3250 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Transitional//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> +<head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" /> + +<title> + Theory of Silk Weaving + </title> + + <style type="text/css"> + +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + } + body { margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; } + hr { width: 45%; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; } + hr.short {text-align: center; width: 20%;} + + img { border : none; } + + p.i2 {margin-left: 1em;} + .i8 {margin-left: 4em;} + .i16 {margin-left: 8em;} + + .c {text-align: center; } + .r {text-align: right; } + .l {text-align: left; } + .b {vertical-align: bottom; } + .t {vertical-align: top; } + .vc {vertical-align: center; } + .vcr {vertical-align: center; text-align: right; } + .blkquot {margin-left: 2em; margin-right: 2em;} /* block indent */ + .pagenum {position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: smaller; text-align: right;} /* page nos */ + .figcenter {padding: 1em; margin: 0; text-align: center; margin: auto; } + + // --> + + </style> + </head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14600 ***</div> + +<!-- Page 1 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1"></a>[pg 1]</span> + + <p class="c">THEORY OF SILK WEAVING</p> + +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 2 Blank --> + +<!-- Page 3 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3"></a>[pg 3]</span> +<h1 style="font-weight:normal; line-height:1.75em;"> +<span style="font-size:100%;">THEORY</span><br /> +<span style="font-size:60%;">OF</span><br /> +<span style="font-size:150%;">SILK WEAVING</span><br /> +</h1> + +<h1 style="font-weight:normal;"> +<span style="font-size:60%;"> + A Treatise on the Construction and</span><br /> +<span style="font-size:60%;"> + Application of Weaves, and the</span><br /> +<span style="font-size:60%;"> + Decomposition and Calculation of</span><br /> +<span style="font-size:60%;"> + Broad and Narrow, Plain,</span><br /> +<span style="font-size:60%;"> + Novelty and Jacquard Silk Fabrics</span><br /> +</h1> + +<h1 style="font-weight:normal;"> +<span style="font-size:60%;"> + Containing 95 Plates</span><br /> +</h1> + +<h1 style="font-weight:normal;"> +<span style="font-size:80%;"> + <i>By</i> ARNOLD WOLFENSBERGER</span><br /> +</h1> + +<h1 style="font-weight:normal;"> +<span style="font-size:60%;"> + Graduate of the Textile Institute of Zurich,</span><br /> +<span style="font-size:60%;"> + Switzerland</span><br /> +</h1> + +<hr class="short"/> + + <p class="c">Second Revised and Enlarged Edition</p> + +<hr class="short"/> + +<h1 style="font-weight:normal;"> +<span style="font-size:60%;"> + NEW YORK</span><br /> +<span style="font-size:60%;"> + <i>Issued by</i> THE AMERICAN SILK JOURNAL</span><br /> +<span style="font-size:60%;"> + CLIFFORD & LAWTON</span><br /> +<span style="font-size:60%;"> + <i>Publishers</i></span><br /> +<span style="font-size:60%;"> + 1921</span><br /> +</h1> + +<!-- Page 4 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4"></a>[pg 4]</span> + +<hr class="short"/> + + <p class="c">COPYRIGHT. 1921. by CLIFFORD & LAWTON</p> + + <p class="c"><i>All rights reserved</i></p> + +<hr class="short"/> + + <p class="c">GROLIER CRAFT PRESS, Printers. 229 West Twenty-eighth Street, New York + City</p> + +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 5 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5"></a>[pg 5]</span> + +<h3>PREFACE</h3> + + <p>The silk industry of America has of late years rapidly advanced to the + front rank among the great textile industries of the world. It may indeed + be proud of this position, to which that enterprising spirit and untiring + energy peculiar to our nation, combined with our great technical and + natural resources, has brought it.</p> + + <p>That we are, on the other hand, not yet at the height of perfection we + are also compelled to acknowledge, but if we consider the short space of + time that the American industry has required for its development, as + compared to the decades, almost centuries, to which some of the great + European silk centers can look back, the fact is neither surprising nor + discouraging.</p> + + <p>While it must not be our aim to imitate or copy their ways, inasmuch + as out conditions and circumstances are quite different from theirs, we + may still profitably study their methods in order to overcome our + deficiencies.</p> + + <p>The greatest advantage which our competitors derive from such a long + existence consists in having at their disposal a force of skilful, + trained help. The manufacturers, appreciating the importance of this + factor, make great efforts and pecuniary sacrifices to elevate and + maintain the high standard of their industry.</p> + + <p>For instance, they support textile schools and lecture courses, where + young men can acquire a thorough technical education and equip themselves + for a career of usefulness, thereby serving their own interests and at + the same time furthering those of their chosen profession.</p> + +<!-- Page 6 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6"></a>[pg 6]</span> + + <p>This beneficial influence cannot fail to exert itself from the + standard of the higher employer down to that of the weaver, who would + naturally take more pains and interest in his work than if he were a mere + mechanical appendage to his loom in order to keep it in motion.</p> + + <p>Very little has been done in his country for technical education as + far as the silk industry is concerned, and it was on this special branch, + that prompted the author to offer in the present little work a treatise + on the theory of shaft weaving for broad silks and ribbons.</p> + + <p>It is divided into three principal parts:</p> + + <p class="i8"><b>1st. Drawing-in the warp in the harness.</b></p> + <p class="i8"><b>2nd. The weaves and their application.</b></p> + <p class="i8"><b>3rd. Decomposition or analysis of the cloth.</b></p> + + <p>To the foregoing there have been added in the revised and enlarged + edition several additional parts covering the following: JACQUARD WEAVES, + BOX LOOM WEAVES, including CREPES, and COST CALCULATIONS for plain and + fancy weaves.</p> + + <p>The subject while condensed, is made as clear and comprehensible as + possible, and to many desirous of increasing their knowledge in this + direction, this should prove a valuable help.</p> + + <p>The author, through the medium of this work, hopes to win the approval + and encouragement of the manufacturers, and will feel amply repaid should + his efforts tend to develop a deeper interest in the "Queen of + Textiles."</p> + +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 7 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7"></a>[pg 7]</span> + +<h2>THEORY OF SILK WEAVING</h2> + +<h3>DRAWING-IN</h3> + + <p>With this term we designate the operation preceding the weaving, by + which all the warp-threads are drawn through the heddles of the + harness.</p> + + <p>The order in which this is done varies according to the weave and the + nature of the fabric to be produced; so we distinguish:</p> + + <p class="i8"><b>Straight draws,</b></p> + <p class="i8"><b>Skip draws,</b></p> + <p class="i8"><b>Point draws,</b></p> + <p class="i8"><b>Section draws.</b></p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>STRAIGHT DRAWS</h3> + +<a name="Fig_1"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig1.png" +alt="Fig. 1" /><br />Fig. 1 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 8 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8"></a>[pg 8]</span> + +<a name="Fig_2"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig2.png" +alt="Fig. 2" /><br />Fig. 2 + </div> + <p>These form the simplest and most common method of drawing-in. We begin + with the first heddle on the left side of the shaft <i>nearest to the + warp-beam</i>, then take the first heddle of second shaft and so on until + all the shafts the set contains are used in rotation. This completes one + "draw," and this operation is repeated until all the warp-threads are + taken up.</p> + + <p>The method of making the shaft nearest to the warp-beam the first, is + almost universal with the silk business and is technically called + <i>drawing-in from back to front</i>.</p> + + <p>The opposite, or drawing in from <i>front to rear</i>, is used + occasionally, however, and in this case makes the first heddle on the + left hand side of the front shaft No. 1.</p> + + <p>The making out of the <i>Drawing-in Draft</i>, which must indicate the + arrangement or the rotation in which the warp-threads are drawn in, can + be done in various ways, of which we will mention the two most popular + methods. The first is by using common designing paper, and indicating the + rotation by dots. The horizonal rows of squares represent the shafts, the + vertical rows the warp-threads. Fig. <a href="#Fig_1">1</a> shows four + repeats of a straight draw on six harness marked out according to this + idea. A second method is to use paper ruled horizontally, the lines + representing the shafts; and to draw vertical lines +<!-- Page 9 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9"></a>[pg 9]</span> + for the warp-threads. + The latter are made to stop on the lines bearing the number of the shafts + into which the respective threads are to be drawn. Fig. <a + href="#Fig_2">2</a> is such a draft, illustrating six repeats of a draw + on four harness from "Front to Rear."</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>SKIP DRAWS</h3> + +<div class="c"> +<table><tr><td class="b"> +<a name="Fig_3"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig3.png" +alt="Fig. 3" /><br />Fig. 3 + </div> + +</td><td> + +<a name="Fig_4"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig4.png" +alt="Fig. 4" /><br />Fig. 4 + </div> +</td></tr></table> +</div> + + <p>The draws coming under this heading are used very extensively in silk + weaving, especially for fabrics requiring a heavy warp and a large number + of shafts. Enter first the odd and then the even shafts. An 8 harness + draw of this kind, of which three repeats are shown in Fig. <a + href="#Fig_3">3</a>, runs as follows: 1, 3, 5, 7, 2, 4, 6, 8.</p> + + <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_4">4</a> is a 12 harness draw of the same + class.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>POINT DRAWS</h3> + +<a name="Fig_5"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig5.png" +alt="Fig. 5" /><br />Fig. 5 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 10 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10"></a>[pg 10]</span> + +<a name="Fig_6"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig6.png" +alt="Fig. 6" /><br />Fig. 6 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<a name="Fig_7"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig7.png" +alt="Fig. 7" /><br />Fig. 7 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<a name="Fig_8"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig8.png" +alt="Fig. 8" /><br />Fig. 8 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<a name="Fig_9"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig9.png" +alt="Fig. 9" /><br />Fig. 9 + </div> + +<!-- Page 11 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11"></a>[pg 11]</span> + + <p>Point draws are a combination of a regular straight draw from back to + front and one from front to back, the first and the last shafts only + being used once, while the rest receive two ends each in one repeat of + the draw. Fig. <a href="#Fig_5">5</a> illustrates a regular point draw in + 2 repeats on 10 shafts. It will be seen that 14 ends make a repeat; in + fact, the number of warp-threads required for one draw will always be + double the number of harness less 2, hence a 12 harness regular point + draw will require 22 warp-threads for a repeat.</p> + + <p>The drawing-in draft illustrated in Fig. <a href="#Fig_6">6</a> is a + slight variation of the regular point draw; it consists, as will be seen, + of a draw from back to front, and also a full one from front to back, + there by causing a <i>double point</i>.</p> + + <p>Another change from the regular point draw is illustrated in Figs. <a + href="#Fig_7">7</a> and <a href="#Fig_8">8</a>; this class may be called + <i>Broken point draws</i>, because a new draw is begun before the other + one is complete. Fig. <a href="#Fig_9">9</a> also comes in this class and + represents a <i>zigzag draw</i> on 10 harness.</p> + + <p>The drawing-in drafts which we have described under the head of "Point + draws," are used mostly to obtain the various pointed and zigzag + effects.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>SECTION DRAWS</h3> + +<a name="Fig_10"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig10.png" +alt="Fig. 10" /><br />Fig. 10 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 12 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12"></a>[pg 12]</span> + +<a name="Fig_11"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig11.png" +alt="Fig. 11" /><br />Fig. 11 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<a name="Fig_12"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig12.png" +alt="Fig. 12" /><br />Fig. 12 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<a name="Fig_13"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig13.png" +alt="Fig. 13" /><br />Fig. 13 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<a name="Fig_14"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig14.png" +alt="Fig. 14" /><br />Fig. 14 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 13 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13"></a>[pg 13]</span> + +<a name="Fig_15"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig15.png" +alt="Fig. 15" /><br />Fig. 15 + </div> + <p>This division of drawing-in drafts is used extensively in silk + manufacturing; for instance, in all fabrics having a ground warp and a + binder warp, also in double-face goods, or where two different weaves are + combined in one effect.</p> + + <p>One or more threads are drawn on the first section, then one or more + on a second and third, if the harness is divided in so many sets.</p> + + <p>The following examples will illustrate the principle of these + draws.</p> + + <p>In Fig. <a href="#Fig_10">10</a>, shafts 1, 2, 3, 4 from the first + set, shafts 5 and 6 the second, 8 threads are drawn straight on the + first, then 2 on the second section.</p> + + <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_11">11</a>, first set shafts 1 to 6 inclusive, + second set shafts 7 and 8.</p> + + <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_12">12</a> is drawn end and end on two sections + having 8 shafts each.</p> + + <p>Figs. <a href="#Fig_13">13</a>, <a href="#Fig_14">14</a> and <a + href="#Fig_15">15</a>, while not strictly belonging to the class of + section draws, may, however, be considered under this heading. The idea + is to draw a certain number of ends in one part of the harness and + another group in another part, be it straight, point or skip, which will + cause the effect on the cloth to be accordingly transposed or broken + up.</p> + +<!-- Page 14 Blank --> + +<!-- Page 15 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15"></a>[pg 15]</span> + +<hr /> + +<h3>THE WEAVES +AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION</h3> + + <p>In any woven fabric we distinguish two systems of threads, the <i>Warp + or Chain</i>, running lengthways in the cloth, and the <i>Filling or + Weft</i>, crossing the former at right angles.</p> + + <p>This crossing or interlacing consists of every individual warp-thread + being placed alternately under and over one or more threads of the + filling system. The arrangement of this interlacing is technically called + the <i>Weave</i>, and the variety in which the points of crossing can be + distributed is practically endless.</p> + + <p>It is principally the weave that lends to a fabric its character, + influenced, of course, by the material used, the size and tension of the + threads and the combination of the colors.</p> + + <p>The weaves are divided into three main classes: <i>the Foundation + weaves</i>. In the silk business they are known under the following + names:</p> + + <p class="i8"><b>The Taffeta Weave,</b></p> + <p class="i8"><b>The Serge Weave,</b></p> + <p class="i8"><b>The Satin Weave.</b></p> + + <p>In the foundation weaves each thread effects only one crossing in one + repeat of the weave, and the points of interlacing occur in a given + rotation. A repeat in the foundation weaves comprises the same number of + warp-threads as of +<!-- Page 16 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16"></a>[pg 16]</span> + <i>picks</i> or filling threads, and if + this number is 8, for instance, the weave is called an 8-shaft or an + 8-harness weave. In marking out a weave, the warp-threads are represented + by vertical lines, the filling by horizontal ones, or in each case by the + space between these lines. The places where a warp-thread lies over the + filling are marked with paint or simply with a cross. In a similar manner + we mark out the <i>chain draft</i>, which indicates the rotation in which + the shafts are raised.</p> + +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 17 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17"></a>[pg 17]</span> + +<h3>THE TAFFETA WEAVE</h3> + +<a name="Fig_16"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig16.png" +alt="Fig. 16" /><br />Fig. 16 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<a name="Fig_17"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig17.png" +alt="Fig. 17" /><br />Fig. 17 + </div> + +<!-- Page 18 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18"></a>[pg 18]</span> + + <p>This is the simplest and oldest method of interlacing. The odd numbers + of warp-threads cross the even numbers after every pick; hence of two + warp-threads one will always go over the first pick and under the second, + and the other end under the first and over the second pick. Taffeta + cloth, therefore, has the same appearance on both sides, and in cotton + and wool weaving this weave is technically—and properly + indeed—called the <i>Plain Weave</i>. It has the smallest repeat, 2 + warp-threads and 2 picks, and the exchanging of warp and filling is the + most frequent possible. The cloth thus produced is firmer and stronger + than that obtained with any other weave.</p> + + <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_16">16</a> is a taffeta on 4 shafts straight draw, + the draft executed in the manner which we have already mentioned in + explaining the drawing-in drafts.</p> + + <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_17">17</a> on common designing paper, illustrates a + taffeta made on 8-harness, skip draw.</p> + + <p>Be it mentioned that the drawing-in draft and the chain draft will be + added throughout this work, the former over the weave to correspond with + the respective warp-threads, the latter to the right of the drawing-in + draft.</p> + +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 19 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19"></a>[pg 19]</span> + +<h3>GROS DE TOURS WEAVES</h3> + +<div class="c"> +<table><tr><td class="b"> +<a name="Fig_18"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig18.png" +alt="Fig. 18" /><br />Fig. 18 + </div> + +</td><td> + +<a name="Fig_19"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig19.png" +alt="Fig. 19" /><br />Fig. 19 + </div> +</td></tr></table> +</div> + + <p>In this weave the working of the warp is the same as in taffeta, + except that instead of one pick, two or more are inserted in the same + shed. It is mostly used in selvedges, where it serves to give more + firmness to the edge of an otherwise loosely woven cloth, and prevents + the weaving ahead of the edge in a tight weave. Gros de Tours is + sometimes used, especially when cotton or wool filling is employed, with + a view to lay two picks nicely side by side, whereas a thread entered two + ply with the taffeta weave will always receive some twist, which may + disturb the perfect evenness of the fabric.</p> + + <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_18">18</a> is a Gros de Tours with two picks on + four harness straight through.</p> + + <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_19">19</a> illustrates this weave with three picks + drawn end and end on two sections of four shafts each.</p> + +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 20 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20"></a>[pg 20]</span> + +<h3>SERGE or TWILL WEAVES</h3> + + <p>While the taffeta weave produces either an entirely smooth fabric, or + one with a distinct transverse rib as in gros-grain, the twill weave + forms diagonal lines on the cloth, running either from left to right or + from right to left.</p> + + <p>To make a twill, not less than three ends and three picks are + required, of which each thread floats over two of the other system and + interlaces with the third. The rotation of the interlacing is always + consecutive, that is it moves with each succeeding pick one thread to the + right (or to the left if the lines are to run in that direction). If warp + and filling have the same texture, that is the same number of threads in + a given space, the twill lines will form an angle of 45°; if the warp + stands closer than the filling, the incline will be steeper, and in the + opposite case the angle will approach more the horizontal.</p> + + <p>The weaves can be expressed in numbers, for instance: the 3-end twill + warp effect would be marked 2-1, which indicates that each warp-thread + goes over two and under one pick.</p> + + <p>Twill weaves are called <i>evensided</i> when the arrangement of "warp + up" and "filling up" are evenly balanced, and <i>unevensided</i> if + either warp or filling predominate on the face of the fabric; the latter + class is therefore subdivided in <i>Warp effects</i> and <i>Filling + effects</i>.</p> + + <p>In the following a number of serge weaves are illustrated, the French + designations being added in some cases, as they are still extensively + used in the trade.</p> + +<!-- Page 21 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21"></a>[pg 21]</span> + +<hr /> + +<h3>FILLING EFFECTS</h3> + +<p class="c"><i>Satin de Lyon,</i> 2-1.</p> + +<p class="c">On 6 harness straight through.</p> + +<a name="Fig_20"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig20.png" +alt="Fig. 20" /><br />Fig. 20 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<p class="c"><i>Levantine,</i> 3-1</p> + +<p class="c">On 8 shafts skip draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_21"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig21.png" +alt="Fig. 21" /><br />Fig. 21 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 22 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22"></a>[pg 22]</span> + +<p class="c"><i>Polonaise,</i> 5-1</p> + +<p class="c">On 12 harness skip draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_22"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig22.png" +alt="Fig. 22" /><br />Fig. 22 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<p class="c"><i>Serge grosse côte,</i> 7-1</p> + +<p class="c">On 8 shafts straight through.</p> + +<a name="Fig_23"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig23.png" +alt="Fig. 23" /><br />Fig. 23 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 23 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23"></a>[pg 23]</span> + +<p class="c"><i>Serge remaine,</i> 6-2</p> + +<p class="c">On 8 shafts skip draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_24"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig24.png" +alt="Fig. 24" /><br />Fig. 24 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<p class="c"><i>Serge,</i> 5-1, 1-1.</p> + +<p class="c">On 8 shafts skip draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_25"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig25.png" +alt="Fig. 25" /><br />Fig. 25 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 24 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24"></a>[pg 24]</span> + +<p class="c"><i>Serge,</i> 4-2, 1-1, 1-1.</p> + +<p class="c">On 10 harness straight through.</p> + +<a name="Fig_26"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig26.png" +alt="Fig. 26" /><br />Fig. 26 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<p class="c"><i>Serge,</i> 7-1, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1.</p> + +<p class="c">On 16 shafts skip draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_27"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig27.png" +alt="Fig. 27" /><br />Fig. 27 + </div> +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 25 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25"></a>[pg 25]</span> + +<h3>WARP EFFECTS</h3> + +<p class="c"><i>Levantine,</i> 3-1.</p> + +<p class="c">On 4 shafts straight through.</p> + +<a name="Fig_28"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig28.png" +alt="Fig. 28" /><br />Fig. 28 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<p class="c"><i>Serge,</i> 5-1, 1-1.</p> + +<p class="c">On 8 shafts skip draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_29"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig29.png" +alt="Fig. 29" /><br />Fig. 29 + </div> +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 26 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26"></a>[pg 26]</span> + +<h3>EVENSIDED TWILLS</h3> + +<p class="c"><i>Surah,</i> 2-2</p> + +<p class="c">On 4 shafts straight through.</p> + +<a name="Fig_30"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig30.png" +alt="Fig. 30" /><br />Fig. 30 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<p class="c"><i>Croise,</i> 3-3, 2-2, 1-1.</p> + +<p class="c">On 12 shafts straight through.</p> + +<a name="Fig_31"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig31.png" +alt="Fig. 31" /><br />Fig. 31 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 27 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27"></a>[pg 27]</span> + +<p class="c"><i>Serge,</i> 7-7, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1</p> + +<p class="c">On 20 shafts skip draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_32"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig32.png" +alt="Fig. 32" /><br />Fig. 32 + </div> +<hr /> + +<h3>POINTED TWILLS</h3> + +<p class="c">in the direction of the filling and also of the warp.</p> + +<a name="Fig_33"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig33.png" +alt="Fig. 33" /><br />Fig. 33 + </div> +<p class="c">On 4 shafts point draw, weave 3-1.</p> + +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 28 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28"></a>[pg 28]</span> + +<a name="Fig_34"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig34.png" +alt="Fig. 34" /><br />Fig. 34 + </div> + <blockquote>On 6 shafts point draw, drawn as follows:</blockquote> + + <blockquote>Eighteen ends from back to front and 4 ends from front to + rear, weave 5-1.</blockquote> + +<hr class="short"/> + +<a name="Fig_35"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig35.png" +alt="Fig. 35" /><br />Fig. 35 + </div> +<p class="c">On 8 shafts pointed draw, weave 5-1, 1-1.</p> + +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 29 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29"></a>[pg 29]</span> + +<a name="Fig_36"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig36.png" +alt="Fig. 36" /><br />Fig. 36 + </div> + <p>On 10 shafts, with weave 3-3, drawn as follows:</p> + + <div class="c"> + <table> + <tr><td>7</td><td>threads</td><td>from</td><td>back to front.</td></tr> + <tr><td>3</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>front to rear.</td></tr> + <tr><td>6</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>back to front.</td></tr> + <tr><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>front to rear.</td></tr> + </table> + </div> + +<hr class="short"/> + +<a name="Fig_37"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig37.png" +alt="Fig. 37" /><br />Fig. 37 + </div> +<p class="c">On 6 shafts straight draw, pointed weave 5-1.</p> + +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 30 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30"></a>[pg 30]</span> + +<a name="Fig_38"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig38.png" +alt="Fig. 38" /><br />Fig. 38 + </div> +<p class="c">On 8 shafts straight through, pointed weave 5-1, 1-1.</p> + +<hr class="short"/> + +<a name="Fig_39"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig39.png" +alt="Fig. 39" /><br />Fig. 39 + </div> +<p class="c"><i>Broken pointed twill</i>, on 8 harness.</p> + +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 31 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31"></a>[pg 31]</span> + +<a name="Fig_40"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig40.png" +alt="Fig. 40" /><br />Fig. 40 + </div> +<p class="c">On 6 shafts point draw, pointed weave 5-1.</p> + +<hr class="short"/> + +<a name="Fig_41"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig41.png" +alt="Fig. 41" /><br />Fig. 41 + </div> +<p class="c">On 8 shafts point draw, pointed weave 5-1, 1-1.</p> + +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 32 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32"></a>[pg 32]</span> + +<a name="Fig_42"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig42.png" +alt="Fig. 42" /><br />Fig. 42 + </div> +<p class="c"><i>Fancy twill</i>, on 16 shafts straight draw.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>SATIN WEAVES</h3> + + <p>The distinct diagonal lines which characterize the class of weaves + explained in the previous chapter are absent in the satin weaves; and + while the interlacing in the former is done in a strictly consecutive + order, we endeavor to scatter the points of stitching in the latter as + much as possible, in order +<!-- Page 33 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33"></a>[pg 33]</span> + to create an entirely smooth and + brilliant surface on the cloth.</p> + + <p>In all satins the number of ends in a repeat is the same in warp and + filling.</p> + + <p>The lowest repeat of a regular satin comprises five threads of each + system, and the interlacing is done in the following order:</p> + + <div class="c"> + <table> + <tr><td>The</td><td>1st</td><td>pick</td><td>with the</td><td>1st</td><td>warp-thread</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>2d</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3d</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>3d</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>5th</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>4th</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2d</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>5th</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4th</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + </table> + </div> + + <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_43">43</a> illustrates this weave. An examination + of the rotation, as given above, will show that every warp-thread + intersects two picks apart from its neighbor. The number "2" is in this + case what is technically known as the <i>counter</i>, that is the number + which indicates the points of interlacing by adding it to number 1 and + continuing so until all the warp-threads are taken up.</p> + + <p>The following is the rule to find the counter for any regular + satin:</p> + + <p>Divide the number of harness into two parts, which must neither be + equal nor have a common divisor. Any of these two numbers can be used for + counting off, but usually the smaller one is taken. According to this + rule we obtain a regular satin</p> + + <div class="c"> + <table> + <tr><td>On</td><td class="r">5</td><td>harness</td><td>with counter</td><td>2</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">7</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2 or 3</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">8</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">9</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2 or 4</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>10</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>11</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2, 3, 4 or 5</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>12</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>5</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>13</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2, 3, 4, 5 or 6</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>14</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3 or 5</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>15</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2, 4 or 7</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>16</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3, 5 or 7.</td></tr> + </table> + </div> + +<!-- Page 34 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34"></a>[pg 34]</span> + + <p>The 4 harness broken twill, Fig. <a href="#Fig_53">53</a>, is + sometimes classed among the satins.</p> + + <p>The 6 harness satin, Fig. <a href="#Fig_54">54</a>, is irregular; as a + counter cannot be derived from number 6 by the given rule. The rotation + generally used is 1, 3, 6, 4, 2, 5.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>Regular Satins</h3> + +<p class="c"><i>5 harness Satin, "Satin de Chine."</i></p> + +<p class="c">Straight draw, counter 2.</p> + +<a name="Fig_43"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig43.png" +alt="Fig. 43" /><br />Fig. 43 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<p class="c"><i>7 harness Satin, "Satin Merveilleux."</i></p> + +<p class="c">Skip draw, counter 2.</p> + +<a name="Fig_44"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig44.png" +alt="Fig. 44" /><br />Fig. 44 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 35 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35"></a>[pg 35]</span> + +<p class="c"><i>7 harness satin</i></p> + +<p class="c">Straight draw, counter 3.</p> + +<a name="Fig_45"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig45.png" +alt="Fig. 45" /><br />Fig. 45 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<p class="c"><i>8 harness satin "Duchese"</i></p> + +<p class="c">Skip draw, counter 3.</p> + +<a name="Fig_46"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig46.png" +alt="Fig. 46" /><br />Fig. 46 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 36 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36"></a>[pg 36]</span> + +<p class="c"><i>9 harness satin</i></p> + +<p class="c">Straight draw, counter 4.</p> + +<a name="Fig_47"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig47.png" +alt="Fig. 47" /><br />Fig. 47 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<p class="c"><i>10 harness satin</i></p> + +<p class="c">Straight draw, counter 3.</p> + +<a name="Fig_48"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig48.png" +alt="Fig. 48" /><br />Fig. 48 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 37 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37"></a>[pg 37]</span> + +<p class="c"><i>11 harness satin</i></p> + +<p class="c">Skip draw, counter 5.</p> + +<a name="Fig_49"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig49.png" +alt="Fig. 49" /><br />Fig. 49 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<p class="c"><i>12 harness satin</i></p> + +<p class="c">Skip draw, counter 5.</p> + +<a name="Fig_50"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig50.png" +alt="Fig. 50" /><br />Fig. 50 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 38 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38"></a>[pg 38]</span> + +<p class="c"><i>16 harness satin</i></p> + +<p class="c">On 2 sections of 8 shafts each, drawn end and end, counter 7.</p> + +<a name="Fig_51"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig51.png" +alt="Fig. 51" /><br />Fig. 51 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 39 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39"></a>[pg 39]</span> + +<p class="c"><i>8 harness satin, warp effect.</i></p> + +<p class="c">Straight draw, counter 3.</p> + +<a name="Fig_52"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig52.png" +alt="Fig. 52" /><br />Fig. 52 + </div> +<hr /> + +<h3>IRREGULAR SATINS</h3> + +<p class="c"><i>Satin Turc.</i></p> + +<p class="c">On 4 shafts straight through.</p> + +<a name="Fig_53"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig53.png" +alt="Fig. 53" /><br />Fig. 53 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 40 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40"></a>[pg 40]</span> + +<p class="c"><i>Satin à la Reine</i></p> + +<p class="c">On 6 shafts straight draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_54"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig54.png" +alt="Fig. 54" /><br />Fig. 54 + </div> + +<!-- Page 41 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41"></a>[pg 41]</span> + +<hr /> + +<h3>DERIVATIVE WEAVES</h3> + +<h4><b>1. From the Taffeta</b></h4> + + <p><i>Royale</i> is a modification of the regular Gros de Tours, inasmuch + as the rib line, which in the latter runs straight across the cloth, is + broken off after a given number of warp-threads. These groups, which may + comprise 8, 12 or more threads, will interlace each one pick higher than + the preceding one.</p> + +<p class="c"><i>Royale of 8 ends</i></p> + +<p class="c">On 2 sections of 4 shafts each.</p> + +<a name="Fig_55"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig55.png" +alt="Fig. 55" /><br />Fig. 55 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<p class="c"><i>Velours Ottoman or Faille française.</i></p> + + <p>In order to obtain a broader rib than that of Gros de Tours, and at + the same time to lend firmness to the fabric, we add to the ground warp, + which forms the ribs, another +<!-- Page 42 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42"></a>[pg 42]</span> + or binder warp, which works continually + taffeta, while the ground warp changes only every 3 or 4 picks for the + rib.</p> + +<p class="c"><i>Faille française.</i></p> + + <div class="c"> + <table> + <tr><td>4</td><td>ends of</td><td>ground</td><td>on the</td><td>first</td><td>section of </td><td>8</td><td>shafts,</td><td>skip draw.</td></tr> + <tr><td>1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>binder</td><td class="c">"</td><td>second</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + </table> + </div> + +<a name="Fig_56"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig56.png" +alt="Fig. 56" /><br />Fig. 56 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<p class="c"><i>Velours Ottoman without a Binder-warp.</i></p> + + <p>In this weave, of which Fig. <a href="#Fig_57">57</a> illustrates a + specimen, comprising 8 warp-threads and 32 picks in a repeat, the rib + contains 4 picks. Of the 8 warp-threads, 3 float over and 3 under the + rib, while the 2 others bind taffeta, which latter function is executed + by 2 other threads in the next rib.</p> + +<!-- Page 43 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43"></a>[pg 43]</span> + +<a name="Fig_57"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig57.png" +alt="Fig. 57" /><br />Fig. 57 + </div> +<hr /> + +<h4>2. From the Twills</h4> + + <p>One variety is obtained by interlacing the warp-threads alternately + one or more picks behind, and then a number of picks ahead of their + respective neighbors; so the complete arrangement of the points of + binding in a repeat will generally form two parallel diagonal lines. This + will cause the twill lines to appear less pronounced than is the case in + the regular twill, and the character of the fabric approaches more that + of the satin.</p> + +<!-- Page 44 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44"></a>[pg 44]</span> + +<a name="Fig_58"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig58.png" +alt="Fig. 58" /><br />Fig. 58 + </div> +<p class="c"><i>Satin Sergé.</i></p> + +<p class="c">On 8 shafts, straight draw.</p> + +<hr class="short"/> + +<a name="Fig_59"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig59.png" +alt="Fig. 59" /><br />Fig. 59 + </div> +<p class="c"><i>Côte Satinée.</i></p> + +<p class="c">On 16 harness, skip draw.</p> + +<hr class="short"/> + + <p><i>Rhadzimir-Surah 2-2.</i> After a certain number of picks of the + regular surah all the warp-threads are crossed in two's thereby causing a + sort of a rib or cut line across the fabric.</p> + +<!-- Page 45 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45"></a>[pg 45]</span> + +<p class="c"><i>Rhadzimir of 4 picks.</i></p> + +<p class="c">On 8 shafts, straight draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_60"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig60.png" +alt="Fig. 60" /><br />Fig. 60 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<p class="c"><i>Rhadzimir of 6 picks.</i></p> + +<p class="c">On 8 shafts, straight draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_61"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig61.png" +alt="Fig. 61" /><br />Fig. 61 + </div> +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 46 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46"></a>[pg 46]</span> + +<h4>3. From the Satin Weave</h4> + + <p><i>Satin Soleil</i> shows a satin-like surface with a cross line + appearance. Fig. <a href="#Fig_62">62</a> illustrates it as made on 8 + shafts, straight draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_62"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig62.png" +alt="Fig. 62" /><br />Fig. 62 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + + <p><i>Satin Grec</i> is a 12-harness satin, in which a taffeta point is + added to each place of interlacing, thus giving the cloth a much firmer + hand. Fig. <a href="#Fig_63">63</a> represents this weave on 12 shafts, + skip draw.</p> + +<!-- Page 47 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47"></a>[pg 47]</span> + +<a name="Fig_63"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig63.png" +alt="Fig. 63" /><br />Fig. 63 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + + <p><i>Peau de Soie.</i> An 8-shaft satin with one point added on the + right or left to the original spots, giving the fabric a somewhat grainy + appearence. Fig. <a href="#Fig_64">64</a> represents a peau de soie on 8 + shafts, straight through.</p> + +<a name="Fig_64"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig64.png" +alt="Fig. 64" /><br />Fig. 64 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 48 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48"></a>[pg 48]</span> + + <p><i>Fleur de Soie.</i> The face is a satin de Lyon (2-1 twill), with a + backing interlaced on the 12-shaft satin principle, Fig. <a + href="#Fig_65">65</a>, on 12 shafts, skip draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_65"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig65.png" +alt="Fig. 65" /><br />Fig. 65 + </div> +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 49 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49"></a>[pg 49]</span> + +<h3>CANNELE and REPP WEAVES</h3> + + <p>are in their construction related to the taffeta, and are used mostly + in the form of stripes as an additional ornament to a fabric. The threads + going into the composition of these effects exchange continually from + taffeta interlacing to floating over a certain number of threads, and + must be introduced either in warp or filling close enough to make the + floats cover up the taffeta work entirely, and thus enable the material + used to show up with the full brilliancy it possesses.</p> + + <p>Cannele effects can be produced in two distinct ways. One is to let + every individual thread work alternately taffeta and float, while in the + other method one thread weaves always taffeta, and a second thread is + used for the cannele exclusively. These latter threads must come from a + separate warp, which is introduced to embellish the ground or taffeta + part of the fabric.</p> + + <p>The floating threads can either stitch all on one pick and so form a + continuous cut line, or be divided in groups, of which one will bind in + the middle of the floats of the other group. The following designs show + both the face and backside of the respective weaves:</p> + +<!-- Page 50 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50"></a>[pg 50]</span> + +<p class="c"><i>Alternating Cannele</i> of 6 picks.</p> + +<p class="c">On 4 shafts, straight through.</p> + +<a name="Fig_66"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig66.png" +alt="Fig. 66" /><br />Fig. 66 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + + <p class="c"><i>Canelle</i> (2 beams). Over 3 picks, interlacing on every fourth + pick, drawn end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.</p> + +<a name="Fig_67"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig67.png" +alt="Fig. 67" /><br />Fig. 67 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 51 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51"></a>[pg 51]</span> + + <p><i>Cannele</i> over 5 picks, binding on the sixth, but every second + thread advanced 3 picks (to the middle of the float of the first thread), + drawn end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.</p> + +<a name="Fig_68"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig68.png" +alt="Fig. 68" /><br />Fig. 68 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 52 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52"></a>[pg 52]</span> + + <p><i>Cannele</i> arranged in groups of 8 threads, floating over 6 picks + and binding on the seventh and eighth, drawn on 2 sections, with 4 shafts + in first and 2 in second section.</p> + +<a name="Fig_69"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig69.png" +alt="Fig. 69" /><br />Fig. 69 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + + <p class="c"><i>Repp</i> on 8 shafts straight through. Rotation of filling. 1 pick + taffeta, 1 pick float (rib).</p> + +<a name="Fig_70"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig70.png" +alt="Fig. 70" /><br />Fig. 70 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 53 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53"></a>[pg 53]</span> + + <p class="c"><i>Repp</i> of 8 threads, on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 ends per + section.</p> + +<a name="Fig_71"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig71.png" +alt="Fig. 71" /><br />Fig. 71 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + + <p><i>Repp</i> of 5 threads, binding on the sixth; every second pick + binds on the middle of the first pick. On 6 harness straight draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_72"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig72.png" +alt="Fig. 72" /><br />Fig. 72 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 54 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54"></a>[pg 54]</span> + + <p><i>Repp</i> in groups, floating over 6 ends and binding on the seventh + and eighth on 8 shafts straight draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_73"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig73.png" +alt="Fig. 73" /><br />Fig. 73 + </div> +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 55 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55"></a>[pg 55]</span> + +<h3>DOUBLE FACED FABRICS</h3> + + <p>In this class we find either two systems of warp or of filling so + combined that only one will be visible on either side. The color on one + side is generally different from the other, and so may the interlacing be + of a different nature on face and back. In the latter case great care + must be exercised not to allow the weave on one side to disturb the one + on the other, and as a rule the points of interlacing of the first warp + or filling system are placed as much as possible in the middle of the + floats of the second. This will prevent either color or weave to be seen + on the opposite side, as the floats of one side will naturally lay + themselves over the binders of the other. The number of ends in a repeat + of the two weaves must either be alike or one a multiple of the + other.</p> + +<h4>Warp Effects</h4> + +<p class="c"><i>Levantine</i> on 8 shafts straight draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_74"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig74.png" +alt="Fig. 74" /><br />Fig. 74 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 56 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56"></a>[pg 56]</span> + +<p class="c"><i>Serge</i> 6-2 on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.</p> + +<a name="Fig_75"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig75.png" +alt="Fig. 75" /><br />Fig. 75 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<p class="c">8 <i>shaft satin</i> on 2 sections of 8 harness each.</p> + +<a name="Fig_76"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig76.png" +alt="Fig. 76" /><br />Fig. 76 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 57 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57"></a>[pg 57]</span> + +<p class="c">12 <i>shaft satin</i> on 2 sections of 12 shafts each.</p> + +<a name="Fig_77"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig77.png" +alt="Fig. 77" /><br />Fig. 77 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<p class="c"><i>Cannele</i> of 8 picks on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.</p> + +<a name="Fig_78"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig78.png" +alt="Fig. 78" /><br />Fig. 78 + </div> +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 58 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58"></a>[pg 58]</span> + +<h3>FILLING EFFECTS</h3> + +<p class="c"><i>Serge</i> 5-1 on 6 harness straight draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_79"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig79.png" +alt="Fig. 79" /><br />Fig. 79 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<p class="c">10 <i>harness satin</i> on 10 shafts skip draw.</p> + +<a name="Fig_80"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig80.png" +alt="Fig. 80" /><br />Fig. 80 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 59 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59"></a>[pg 59]</span> + +<p class="c"><i>Repp</i> on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 threads per section.</p> + +<a name="Fig_81"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig81.png" +alt="Fig. 81" /><br />Fig. 81 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 60 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60"></a>[pg 60]</span> + +<h3>PEKINS</h3> + + <p>With this name we designate fabrics in which stripes of a different + interlacing run in the direction of the warp. In combining these weaves + it is advantageous to have them contrast distinctly, for instance, a + short weave such as taffeta or Gros de Tours, with a longer and looser + one such as satin, sergé or cannele, also changes from warp to filling + effects. Care must be taken to arrange the joining of the two weaves so + that the last thread of one weave will cross the first thread of the + other. This will prevent the threads from either stripe to slide over + into the other, and so make a clean cut line.</p> + +<p class="c"><b>Pekin.</b> A stripe of</p> + + <div class="c"> + <table> + <tr><td class="r">2</td><td>dents of</td><td>8</td><td>ends each,</td><td>8 shaft Satin,</td><td>on 8</td><td>shafts</td><td>straight</td><td>draw.</td></tr> + <tr><td>12</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Taffeta</td><td class="c">" 4</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + </table> + </div> + +<a name="Fig_82"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig82.png" +alt="Fig. 82" /><br />Fig. 82 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 61 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61"></a>[pg 61]</span> + +<p class="c"><b>Pekin</b>. A stripe of</p> + + <div class="c"> + <table> + <tr><td>12</td><td>ends</td><td>Cannele</td><td>of</td><td>6 picks on 1st section of 4 shafts.</td></tr> + <tr><td>12</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Repp</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6 threads on 2d and 3d section of 2 shafts each.</td></tr> + </table> + </div> + +<a name="Fig_83"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig83.png" +alt="Fig. 83" /><br />Fig. 83 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 62 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62"></a>[pg 62]</span> + +<p class="c"><b>Pekin.</b> A stripe of</p> + + <div class="c"> + <table> + <tr><td>10</td><td>ends</td><td>5 leaf Satin</td><td>on the</td><td>1st</td><td>section of</td><td>5</td><td>shafts</td><td>straight</td><td>draw.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">4</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Taffeta</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3d</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td>18</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Serge 3-1, 1-1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2d</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + </table> + </div> + +<a name="Fig_84"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig84.png" +alt="Fig. 84" /><br />Fig. 84 + </div> +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 63 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63"></a>[pg 63]</span> + +<h3>BAYADÈRES</h3> + + <p>While pekins are formed by warp stripes, bayadère shows us stripes of + different weaves running in the direction of the filling. The rules given + in the previous chapter as to the joining of the weaves will also apply + here. The warp which was raised on the last pick of the weave must stay + down wherever possible on the first pick of the following weave. The + number of shafts employed must go up evenly in the repeat of each one of + the weaves that go into the make up of the bayadère.</p> + +<p class="c"><b>Bayadère</b></p> + + <div class="c"> + <table> + <tr><td>A stripe of</td><td>24</td><td>picks</td><td>Gros de Tours</td><td class="vc" rowspan="2"> } on 8 shafts straight through.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">8</td><td class="c">"</td><td>8-shaft Satin,</td></tr> + </table> + </div> + +<a name="Fig_85"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig85.png" +alt="Fig. 85" /><br />Fig. 85 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 64 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64"></a>[pg 64]</span> + +<p class="c"><b>Bayadère</b></p> + + <div class="c"> + <table> + <tr><td>A stripe of</td><td>18</td><td>picks</td><td>6-shaft Satin</td><td class="vc" rowspan="3"> }<br /> } on 6 shafts, straight draw.<br /> }</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">6</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Serge 5-1,</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">4</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Taffeta,</td></tr> + </table> + </div> + +<a name="Fig_86"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig86.png" +alt="Fig. 86" /><br />Fig. 86 + </div> +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 65 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65"></a>[pg 65]</span> + +<h3>CHECKS AND PLAIDS</h3> + + <p>If pekin and bayadère stripes are combined, we obtain checked fabrics, + and of these an endless variety and pleasing effects can be produced with + the aid of suitable color combinations.</p> + +<p class="c"><b>Check</b></p> + + <div class="c"> + <table> + <tr><td class="r">of 16</td><td>threads</td><td>and</td><td>12</td><td>picks</td><td>of</td><td>the 4 end broken twill,</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">and 16</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>12</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Royale of 8 threads,</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="7" class="c">drawn on 4 sections of 4 shafts each.</td></tr> + </table> + </div> + +<a name="Fig_87"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig87.png" +alt="Fig. 87" /><br />Fig. 87 + </div> +<hr class="short"/> + +<!-- Page 66 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66"></a>[pg 66]</span> + +<p class="c"><b>Check</b></p> + + <div class="c"> + <table> + <tr><td>of</td><td>20</td><td>threads</td><td>and</td><td>16</td><td>picks</td><td>of</td><td>8-shaft Satin,</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>20</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>16</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Taffeta,</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"> </td><td class="r">4</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Surah 3-1,</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="8" class="c">drawn on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.</td></tr> + </table> + </div> + +<a name="Fig_88"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig88.png" +alt="Fig. 88" /><br />Fig. 88 + </div> +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 67 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67"></a>[pg 67]</span> + +<h3>DECOMPOSITION</h3> + + <p>Under the name of <i>Disposition</i> we comprise all those points and + details which we must ascertain before we can proceed with the + construction of a fabric. They are:</p> + + <p class="i8"><b>1. The weave.</b></p> + <p class="i8"><b>2. Length and width of the cloth.</b></p> + <p class="i8"><b>3. The stock and the dyeing thereof.</b></p> + <p class="i8"><b>4. Reed calculation</b> (number of dents and ends per inch and total number of dents required).</p> + <p class="i8"><b>5. Drawing-in the warp in harness and reed.</b></p> + <p class="i8"><b>6. Texture and arrangement of warp</b> (warping ticket)</p> + <p class="i8"><b>7. Arrangement of harness.</b></p> + <p class="i8"><b>8. Reduction of filling.</b></p> + <p class="i8"><b>9. Calculation of warp and filling.</b></p> + <p class="i8"><b>10. Finishing.</b></p> + <p class="i8"><b>11. Calculation of cost.</b></p> + +<!-- Page 68 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68"></a>[pg 68]</span> + +<h3>1. THE WEAVE</h3> + + <p>If a given sample is to be reproduced or imitated, it must be + analyzed, and the following hints will greatly facilitate this operation + to the beginner.</p> + + <p>Cut the sample straight on two sides, and draw out a number of warp + and filling threads until there is a small fringe of perhaps ¼ of an + inch. This will allow a thread to be raised a little for examination, + without danger of its falling out of the fabric. In most cases it is + easier to dissect the filling side, that is, the interlacing of each + warp-thread in the threads of the filling system. With the help of the + microscope or counting glass we can easily determine over and under how + many picks that thread passes and the points of interlacing are + accordingly marked on designing paper. This being done for at least the + length of a repeat warpways, we take it out and examine the following + thread, and so on until the repeat filling-ways is complete. It is + advisable to ascertain how many picks ahead or back of the first examined + thread the next following one binds before taking the former out.</p> + + <p>A knowledge of the construction of weaves as explained in the + foregoing chapters will enable us to determine the weave of a simple + pattern by merely raising a warp-thread with a needle on any point of + interlacing and counting off how many picks apart from this place it + makes an impression.</p> + +<h3>2. LENGTH AND WIDTH OF THE FABRIC</h3> + + <p>To the length and width which the finished product is to have, we must + add a certain allowance for shrinkage and <i>taking up</i> of warp during + weaving. It may differ from one to ten per cent., according to the + texture and weave of the fabric, and can be ascertained with sufficient + accuracy by stretching out and measuring a thread of warp and filling and + comparing their length with the respective measurements of the sample to + be reproduced.</p> + +<!-- Page 69 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69"></a>[pg 69]</span> + +<h3>3. THE STOCK AND ITS DYE</h3> + + <p>Under this heading we must give the particulars as to nature, + <i>twist</i>, <i>quality</i> and <i>size</i> of the silk, and the + directions for the dyeing, whether <i>bright</i> or <i>souple</i>, and in + what colors, also whether to be weighted or not.</p> + + <p>The size is generally ascertained (in practical work) by comparing it + with other silk of which the exact count is known. Another method is to + count the number of cocoon threads which a thread of the sample contains, + adding to that 1/3 or ¼, according to the quality of the silk; the result + will be the count in deniers. To obtain it in drams, divide the latter + number by 17,3 as 1 dram is equal to 17,3 deniers.</p> + + <p>Suppose we find 20 cocoon ends in a thread of silk: add 1/3, and we + have 26-2/3 deniers, which, divided by 17,3 make 1,54 drams.</p> + + <p>As silk is always more or less uneven, it is safer to count the cocoon + fibers of several threads and to take average thereof.</p> + + <p>It requires the experience of years to judge with any degree of + certainty as to the origin and quality of silk, whether it be + "classical," "extra," "sublime," etc.</p> + + <p>There are machines wherewith to ascertain exactly the twist, that is, + the number of turns the silk has received in the throwing process.</p> + + <p>In the dyeing we distinguish two great classes, of which the names + themselves give a good definition. "Bright" has a brilliant luster, while + "souple" has more of a dull, subdued appearance. To find out whether the + silk has been weighted in the dyeing process, we may compare it with + other silk of which the exact conditions are known, or we may burn a + small quantity of it. Unweighted silk does not burn readily and leaves a + residue of white ashes, while heavy weighted silk burns lively, leaving + black, charry ashes.</p> + +<!-- Page 70 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70"></a>[pg 70]</span> + +<h3>4. REED CALCULATION</h3> + + <p>We count the number of repeats of the weave in a given space, + generally ¼ or ½ inch, and multiply this with the number of threads one + repeat contains, which gives us the reduction of the warp.</p> + + <p>Suppose we had a taffeta, which, as we know, has only 2 ends to a + repeat, and counted 30 interlacings per ¼ inch on one pick; we would have + 60 threads per ¼ inch or 240 per one inch. In this case the reed may be + 80 by 3 or 60 by 4.</p> + + <p>Another instance: In an 8-shaft satin we count 10 warp-threads, which + bind on the same pick in ¼ inch; this, multiplied by 8, equals 80 ends + per ¼, or 320 per one inch; the reed will be an 80 with 4 in a dent or a + 64 by 5.</p> + + <p>In short, the number of the reed is found by dividing the number of + warp-threads that are to go in one dent, in the number of ends per inch. + Sometimes, the reed marks are clearly visible in a sample by holding the + latter against the light. Silk fabrics move with very few exceptions + within the limits of 50 and 90 dents per inch.</p> + + <p>To learn the full number of dents required for the width of the cloth, + simply multiply the dents per one inch with the width, adding a certain + allowance for shrinkage. The edges, of course, must also be taken in + consideration, and very often the dents that are taken up by the latter + are used to counter-balance that shrinkage.</p> + +<h3>5. DRAWING-IN THE WARP IN HARNESS AND REED</h3> + + <p>Here we must specify the number of dents that contain the same number + of ends, and whether the latter are single or double, also the number of + shafts and the method of drawing-in.</p> + +<!-- Page 71 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71"></a>[pg 71]</span> + +<h3>6. WARPING TICKET</h3> + + <p>To make out the warping ticket, we need to ascertain the total number + of ends, whether leased single or double, and the arrangement of the + colors.</p> + +<h3>7. HARNESS ARRANGEMENT</h3> + + <p>This is governed by the number of ends to be drawn in and the + necessary shafts. If we have, for instance, 100 threads per inch to be + drawn on 4 shafts, we must give each shaft 25 heddles per inch. There are + generally between 25 and 45 heddles per inch on one shaft.</p> + +<h3>8. REDUCTION OF THE FILLING</h3> + + <p>Here we state the number of picks per inch, give directions as to + doubling, if such is necessary, and if more than one color or shuttle is + used, the rotation thereof.</p> + +<h3>9. CALCULATION OF WARP AND FILLING</h3> + + <p>The system adopted in this country for specifying the size of silk is + based on the weight in drams (avoirdupois) of a skein containing 1000 + yards. A skein, thus weighing 5 drams, is technically called 5-dram silk. + The number of yards of 1-dram silk to a pound must accordingly be 256000. + The formulas for figuring the amount of silk required for a piece of + cloth are as follows:</p> + +<h4>Warp Calculation</h4> + + <div class="blkquot"> + <table> + <tr><td><i>Multiply:</i></td><td><u>Number of ends × length × count</u></td><td rowspan="2" class="vc"> = lbs</td></tr> + <tr><td><i>Divide by:</i></td><td class="c">1000 yards × 256 drams</td></tr> + </table> + </div> + +<!-- Page 72 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72"></a>[pg 72]</span> + +<h4>Filling Calculation</h4> + + <div class="blkquot"> + <table> + <tr><td><i>Multiply:</i></td><td><u>Picks × xply × width × length of piece × count</u></td><td rowspan="2" class="vc"> = lbs</td></tr> + <tr><td><i>Divide by:</i></td><td class="c">1000 yards × 256 drams</td></tr> + </table> + </div> + + <div class="blkquot"> + <p>The result in both cases will be in pounds.</p> + </div> + + <p>The system of grading the silk which is in vogue in Europe, and which + is employed by a number of mills on this side, is as follows:</p> + + <table> + <tr><td class="r">1</td><td>skein of</td><td>500</td><td>meters,</td><td>weighing</td><td>0,05</td><td>grams</td><td>= 1</td><td>denier</td><td colspan="2">international</td></tr> + <tr><td>or 1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>476</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>0,053</td><td class="c">"</td><td> = 1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Turin</td><td>system</td></tr> + <tr><td>or 1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>476</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>0,051</td><td class="c">"</td><td>= 1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Milan</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + </table> + + <p>The warp calculation, taking the international denier, would run:</p> + + <div class="blkquot"> + <table> + <tr><td> </td><td><u>ends in warp × length × denier × 0,05 gram</u></td></tr> + <tr><td><i>divided by:</i></td><td class="c">500 meters</td></tr> + </table> + </div> + + <div class="blkquot"> + <table> + <tr><td>for the filling:</td><td><u>Picks per meter × xply × width × denier × 0,05 gram</u></td></tr> + <tr><td><i>divided by:</i></td><td class="c">500 meters</td></tr> + </table> + </div> + + <div class="blkquot"> + <p>Result in metric weight, kilograms and grams.</p> + </div> + +<h3>10. FINISHING</h3> + + <p>Give directions as to the process of finishing to which the goods are + to be subjected, whether to be pressed, calendered, sized, moiréd, + etc.</p> + +<h3>11. CALCULATION OF COST</h3> + + <p>If all the foregoing conditions are ascertained, and a sample or a + piece of the fabric executed, it remains to the manufacturer to determine + the exact figure at which he can produce the article. That this must be + done with great accuracy is naturally of the utmost importance, and the + calculator +<!-- Page 73 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73"></a>[pg 73]</span> + must know in the first place the raw + stock prices, and also be acquainted with the details of the + manufacturing process and the rates of wages paid therein. As a rule, the + manufacturer establishes a scale of prices covering all the items of + labor cost, mill expenses, etc., and uses this as a basis for his + calculations.</p> + + <p>A rule or formula for this operation cannot very well be given, as the + methods vary in almost every establishment, each choosing the one best + adapted to its ideas or dictates of circumstances and conditions.</p> + +<!-- Page 74 Blank --> + +<!-- Page 75 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75"></a>[pg 75]</span> + +<h3>DISPOSITION 1</h3> + +<p class="c"><i>Taffeta glacé</i></p> + +<a name="Fig_89"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig89.png" +alt="Fig. 89" /><br />Fig. 89 + </div> + +<!-- Page 76 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76"></a>[pg 76]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>—One piece 100 yards long, 18¾ inches wide.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Stock and Dye</b>—<i>Warp.</i>—</td><td>Ital. Organ., 24/26 deniers = 1,47 drams, brown, bright, 14/16 oz.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>—</td><td>Japan Tram, 28/30 deniers = 1,65 drams, gold, bright 14/16 oz.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>—</td><td>Per</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">70</td><td>dents</td><td>at 3 single ends.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="c">"</td><td>18¾</td><td class="c">"</td><td>1313</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="3"> </td><td>add</td><td class="r">13</td><td class="c">"</td><td>= 1% for shrinkage</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"> </td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4" class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">1326</td><td>dents</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>—1st edge,</td><td class="r">9</td><td>dents</td><td>at 3 double</td><td>ends.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>1308</td><td class="c">"</td><td>at 3 single</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">9</td><td class="c">"</td><td>at 3 double</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c" colspan="5">on 6 shafts, straight through.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>—1st edge,</td><td class="r">27</td><td>double</td><td>ends,</td><td>brown.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>3924</td><td>single</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">27</td><td>double</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">4032</td><td>single</td><td>ends.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c" colspan="5">Length of warp 110 yards, including 10% for take up.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Harness</b>—6</td> <td>shafts,</td> <td>3978</td> <td>heddles</td> <td>per</td> <td>19</td> <td>inches.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">35</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Reduction of Filling</b>—Per inch, 100/102 picks, 2 ends.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>—? lbs =</td><td>4032 ends.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>110 yards.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,47 drams.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table class="i8"> + <tr><td><u>4032×110×1,47×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 2,65 lbs., or 2 lbs. 10,4 oz.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<!-- Page 77 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77"></a>[pg 77]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>—? lbs. =</td><td>100 yards</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>102 picks.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r"> </td><td>2 ends.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>19 inches.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,65 drams.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>108 (8% waste).</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table class="i8"> + <tr><td><u>100×36×102×2×19×165×108</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 2,73 lbs., or 2 lbs. 11,7 ozs.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">36×1000×256×100</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<!-- Page 78 Blank --> + +<!-- Page 79 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79"></a>[pg 79]</span> + +<hr class="short" /> + +<h3>DISPOSITION 2</h3> + +<p class="c"><i>Surah 3-1</i></p> + +<a name="Fig_90"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig90.png" +alt="Fig. 90" /><br />Fig. 90 + </div> + +<!-- Page 80 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80"></a>[pg 80]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>—1 piece 50 yards long, 23½ in. wide.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Stock and Dyeing</b>—<i>Warp.</i>—</td><td>Ital. Organ., 1,30 drams = 20/24 deniers, black, bright, 40/50% = 22/24 ozs.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>—</td><td>Cotton No. 120/2 black.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>—</td><td>Per</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">80</td><td>dents</td><td>at 2 single ends.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="c">"</td><td>23½</td><td class="c">inch</td><td>1880</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="3"> </td><td>add</td><td class="r">36</td><td class="c">"</td><td>= 2% for shrinkage</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"> </td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4" class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">1916</td><td>dents</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>—1st edge,</td><td class="r">8</td><td>dents</td><td>2 double</td><td>ends.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>1900</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2 single</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">8</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2 double</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c" colspan="5">on 4 shafts, straight draw.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>—1st edge,</td><td class="r">16</td><td>double</td><td>ends,</td><td>black.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>3800</td><td>single</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">16</td><td>double</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">3864</td><td>single</td><td>ends.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c" colspan="5">Warp 54 yards long = 8% for take up.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Harness</b>—4</td><td>shafts,</td><td>3832</td><td>heddles</td><td>per</td> <td>24</td><td>inches.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">40</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Reduction of Filling</b>—Per 1 inch, 120 picks, 1 end.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>—? lbs =</td><td>4264 ends.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>54 yards.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,30 drams.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table class="i8"> + <tr><td><u>3864×54×1,30×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 1,10 lbs., or 1 lb. 1,06 oz.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<!-- Page 81 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81"></a>[pg 81]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>—? lbs. =</td><td>50 yards</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>120 picks.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>24 inches.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">840 yards =</td><td>1 skein.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">(No. 120/2) 60 skeins =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>110 (10% waste).</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table class="i8"> + <tr><td><u>50×36×120×24×110</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 3.14 lbs., or 3 lbs. 2.24 ozs.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">36×840×60×100</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<hr class = "short" /> + +<!-- Page 82 Blank --> + +<!-- Page 83 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83"></a>[pg 83]</span> + + <h3>DISPOSITION 3</h3> + + <p class="c"><i>Satin Duchesse.</i></p> + +<a name="Fig_91"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig91.png" +alt="Fig. 91" /><br />Fig. 91 + </div> + +<!-- Page 84 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84"></a>[pg 84]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>—One warp 300 yards long, 10 pieces of 60 yards + 23 inches wide, 2 pieces in width, with one cut edge.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Stock and Dyeing</b>—<i>Warp.</i>—</td><td>Ital. Organ., 1-55/100 drams, black, bright, 20/22 oz.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>—</td><td>Jap. Tram., 1-8/10 and 2-7/10 drams, black, souple, 40/44 oz.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td>We should use for this fabric 1 end filling, 5-thread, 4-5/10 + drams, but as we have none of this size on hand, we take: 1 end, 2 + thread, 1-8/10 drams, and 1 end, 3 thread, 2-7/10 drams.</td></tr></table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>—</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">66</td><td>dents</td><td>4 single ends.</td></tr> + <tr><td> </td><td>46</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3036</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"> </td><td>add</td><td class="r">54</td><td class="c">"</td><td>(1¾% shrinkage).</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="3"> </td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="3" class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">3090</td><td>dents</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>—</td><td rowspan="2" class="vcr">1st edge,</td><td>{</td><td class="r">2</td><td>dents</td><td>6×2,</td><td>black.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">13</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4×2,</td><td>white.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="r" colspan="2">Ground,</td><td>1514</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4×1,</td><td>black.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td rowspan="4" class="vcr">Cut Edge</td><td>{</td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×2</td><td>black.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×4,</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">3</td><td class="c">"</td><td>empty.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×4,</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="r" colspan="2">Ground,</td><td>1514</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4×1,</td><td >black.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td rowspan="2" class="vcr">2d edge,</td><td>{</td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×2,</td><td>black.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">13</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4×2,</td><td>white.</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="7">Satin on 8 shafts, straight draw.<br /> + Cross-thread for split edge on 3 shafts, see design.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>—</td><td class="vcr" rowspan="2">Edge,</td><td>{</td><td class="r">12/2</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">52/2</td><td>white.</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="r" colspan="2">Ground,</td><td>6056/1</td><td>black.</td><td>} twice over.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="vcr" rowspan="2">Edge,</td><td>{</td><td class="r">12/2</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">52/2</td><td>white.</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="6"> </td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td colspan="5"> + <table> + <tr><td>12208</td><td>ends</td><td>black,</td><td>{ 318 yards long.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">416</td><td class="c">"</td><td>white,</td><td>{ = 6% shrinkage.</td></tr> + </table> + </td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="6"> </td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="6" class="r"> + <table> + <tr><td>2/4</td> <td>black</td> <td>for</td> <td>ground</td> <td>thread,</td> <td>300</td> <td>yards</td> <td>long.</td></tr> + <tr><td>2/4</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>whip</td><td class="c">"</td><td>360</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="8">each one on a separate little roll.</td></tr> + </table> + </td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<!-- Page 85 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85"></a>[pg 85]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Harness</b>—8</td><td>shafts,</td><td>12368</td><td>heddles</td><td>47</td><td>in.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">33</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <p class="i8"> for the split edge 3 shafts, of which one has only half a heddle.</p> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Filling</b>—Per 1 in., 80 picks, 2 ends (as described before).</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>—? lbs =</td><td>12224 ends, black (416 white).</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>318 yards.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,55 drams.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table class="i8"> + <tr><td>(416)</td><td><u>12224×318×1.55×104</u></td><td> = 24,477</td><td>lbs.</td><td>org.</td><td>black.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="c">1000×256×100</td><td class="r"> = 0,833</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>white.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>—? lbs. =</td><td>300 yards</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>80 picks.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>47 inches.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>4,5 drams.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>108 (8% waste).</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table class="i8"> + <tr><td><u>300×36×80×47×4,5×108</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 21,414 lbs.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">36×1000×256×100</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<hr class="short" /> + +<!-- Page 86 Blank --> + +<!-- Page 87 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87"></a>[pg 87]</span> + +<h3>DISPOSITION 4</h3> + +<p class="c"><i>Armure Satinée</i></p> + +<a name="Fig_92"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig92.png" +alt="Fig. 92" /><br />Fig. 92 + </div> + +<!-- Page 88 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88"></a>[pg 88]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>—One piece 60 yards long, 19 in. wide.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Stock and Dye</b>—<i>Warp.</i>—</td><td>Jap. Organ., 1,48 drams, black, bright, 18/20 oz.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>—</td><td>3 threads Jap. Tram., 2,95 drams, black, bright, 24/26 oz.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>—</td><td>Per</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">60</td><td>dents</td><td>× 4 single ends.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="c">"</td><td>19</td><td class="c">"</td><td>1140</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"> </td><td class="r">32</td><td class="c">"</td><td>(3% for shrinkage).</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"> </td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4" class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">1172</td><td>dents</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>—1st edge,</td><td class="r">12</td><td>dents</td><td>× 4 double.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>1148</td><td class="c">"</td><td>× 4 single.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">12</td><td class="c">"</td><td>× 4 double.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="c" colspan="4">on 12 shafts, straight through,</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="c" colspan="4">or on 6 shafts, as design indicates.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>—1st edge,</td><td class="r">48/2</td><td>black.</td><td> </td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>4592/1</td><td> "</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">48/2</td><td> "</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r"> </td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">4784</td><td colspan="2">single ends 64 yards long.</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="2">=6½% for take up.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Harness</b>—6</td><td>shafts,</td><td>4688</td><td>heddles</td><td>per</td> <td>19½</td><td>inches.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">40</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Reduction of Filling</b>—Per 1 inch, 104 picks, 2 ends.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>—? lbs =</td><td>4784 ends.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>64 yards.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,48 drams.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table class="i8"> + <tr><td><u>4784×64×1,48×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 1,84 lbs., or 1 lb. 13,44 ozs.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<!-- Page 89 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89"></a>[pg 89]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>—? lbs. =</td><td>60 yards</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>104 picks.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r"> </td><td>2 ends.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>19½ inches.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>2,95 drams.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>108 (8% waste).</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table class="i8"> + <tr><td><u>60×36×104×2×19,5×2,95×108</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 3,03 lbs., or 3 lbs. 0,48 ozs.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">36×1000×256×100</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<hr class="short" /> + +<!-- Page 90 Blank --> + +<!-- Page 91 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91"></a>[pg 91]</span> + +<h3>DISPOSITION 5</h3> + +<p class="c"><i>Surface Printed Armure.</i></p> + +<a name="Fig_93"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig93.png" +alt="Fig. 93" /><br />Fig. 93 + </div> + +<!-- Page 92 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92"></a>[pg 92]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>—One piece 50 yards long, 18½ in. wide.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Stock and Dyeing</b>—<i>Warp.</i>—</td><td>Ital. Organ., 1,50 drams, 24/28 deniers, white bright, pure dye.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>—</td><td>5 thread Ital. Tram., 4 drams, 13/14 deniers, white, bright, pure dye.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>—</td><td>Per</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">52</td><td>dents</td><td>2×2.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="c">"</td><td>18½</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">962</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"> </td><td class="r">20</td><td class="c">"</td><td>(2% shrinkage).</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"> </td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4" class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">982</td><td>dents.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>—1st edge,</td><td class="r">7</td><td>dents</td><td>4×2 gros de Tours.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>968</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×2 armure</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">7</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4×2 gros de Tours.</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="5" class="c">Armure ground on 12 shafts, straight draw.</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="5" class="c">Gros de Tours, edges on 4 shafts.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>—</td><td>Ground warp, 54 yards. 1936/2 white.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>Gros de Tours edges, 55 yards. 2×28/2 white, on separate rolls.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">Total</td><td> . . . 3984 single ends.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Harness</b>—12</td><td>shafts,</td><td>1936</td><td>heddles</td><td>per</td> <td>18½</td><td>inches.</td><td> </td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">8-2/3</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="8">4 Shafts gros de Tours edges, with 28 heddles on each side.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Reduction of Filling</b>—Per 1 inch, 96 picks, 1 end.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>—? lbs =</td><td>3984 ends.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>54 yards.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,50 drams.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table class="i8"> + <tr><td><u>3984×54×1,50×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 1,31 lbs., or 1 lb. 4,96 ozs.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<!-- Page 93 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93"></a>[pg 93]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>—? lbs. =</td><td>50 yards</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>96 picks.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>19 inches.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>4 drams.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>108 (8% waste).</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table class="i8"> + <tr><td><u>50×36×96×19×4×108</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 1,54 lbs., or 1 lb. 8,64 ozs.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">36×1000×256×100</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <p class="i8">After weaving, the small flower effects have to be printed on the + cloth.</p> + +<hr class="short" /> + +<!-- Page 94 Blank --> + +<!-- Page 95 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95"></a>[pg 95]</span> + +<h3>DISPOSITION 6</h3> + +<p class="c"><i>Pekin</i>: 8 shaft satin and repp.</p> + +<a name="Fig_94"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig94.png" +alt="Fig. 34" /><br />Fig. 34 + </div> + +<!-- Page 96 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96"></a>[pg 96]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>—1 piece 100 yards long, 20¼ in. wide.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td class="r">{ </td><td>Ital. Organ., 1-35/100 drams, black, bright, 20/22 oz.</td></tr> + <tr><td><b>Stock and Dyeing</b>—<i>Warp.</i> { </td><td>Ital. Organ., 1-15/100 drams, sky, bright, pure dye</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">{ </td><td>Cotton No. 100/2, scarlet.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>—</td><td>3 threads, Jap. Tram., 2-8/10 drams, scarlet, bright, 14/16 oz.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td colspan="6"></td><td>{ 6×1,</td><td>black</td><td>satin</td></tr> + <tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>—</td><td>Per</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">68</td><td>dents</td><td>{ 6×2,</td><td>colored</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="6"></td><td>{ 2×1,</td><td class="c">"</td><td>repp.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="c">"</td><td>20¼</td><td class="c">"</td><td>1377</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="3"> </td><td>add</td><td class="r">23</td><td class="c">"</td><td colspan="3">(1½% for shrinkage).</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"> </td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4" class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">1400</td><td>dents</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>—1st edge,</td><td class="r">7</td><td>dents</td><td>6×2</td><td>satin.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>34</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×2</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>10</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td class="c">"</td><td> } twice</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td> } over</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>10</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×2</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>39</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="r">5</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td> } twice</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="r">4</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td> } over</td><td>} 7 times</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="r">5</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td></td><td>} over</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>15</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>15</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="r">5</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td> } twice</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="r">4</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td> } over</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="r">5</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td class="r">5</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>28</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">7</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×2</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table class="i8"> + <tr><td>Satin</td><td>on</td><td>1st</td><td>section</td><td>of</td><td>8</td><td>shaft</td> <td>skip draw.</td></tr> + <tr><td>Binder</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2nd</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + <tr><td>Repp</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3d</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<!-- Page 97 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97"></a>[pg 97]</span> + + <p>On each side of every repp stripe two ends of the satin warp must be + entered on the 2 binder shafts (2d section), to prevent the ends of the + satin to slide over into the repp stripes.</p> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>—<b>I.</b></td><td colspan="3"><i>Beam satin,</i> 106 yards.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>1st edge,</td><td class="r">42/2</td><td>black.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>Ground,</td><td class="r">204/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td><td rowspan="10">7 times over</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">12/2</td><td>sky.</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">180/1</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">12/2</td><td>sky.</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">234/1</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">48/2</td><td>sky.</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">180/1</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">48/2</td><td>sky.</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">30/1</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">168/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>2d edge,</td><td class="r">42/<font size="-2">2</font></td><td>"</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td colspan="4"> + <table> + <tr><td>6132</td><td>single</td><td>ends</td><td>black.</td></tr> + <tr><td>1680</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>sky.</td></tr> + </table> + </td></tr> + <tr><td class="r"><b>II.</b></td><td colspan="3"><i>Beam repp</i>, 110 yards.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">4/1</td><td>scarlet.</td><td>}</td><td rowspan="10">7 times over</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">4/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">4/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td colspan="4">504 single ends scarlet cotton</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <p>This warp has to be beamed in stripes. Make out a diagram for the + warper the same as shown in Fig. <a href="#Fig_95">95</a>.</p> + +<!-- Page 98 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98"></a>[pg 98]</span> + +<a name="Fig_95"></a> +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/fig95.png" +alt="Fig. 95" /><br />Fig. 95 + </div> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Harness</b>—Fig. <a href="#Fig_95">95</a> shows how to make a + diagram of a harness for a Pekin. The heddles are marked per one shaft. + As the repp stripes are only small ones, we use for the satin a full + harness, that is, one without open spaces for the repp stripe. All + together we have in the satin warp 6888 single and double ends to draw + in; of these 252 ends are used for binders, on both sides of the repp + stripes. Thus remain for</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table class="i8"> + <tr><td>8</td><td>shafts,</td><td>6636</td><td>heddles</td><td>per</td> <td>20½</td><td>inches.</td></tr> + <tr><td>1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">40</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Reduction of Filling</b>—Per inch, Per 1 inch, 144 picks, 1 end.</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>—? lbs =</td><td>6132 ends (1680 ends sky).</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>106 yards.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,35 drams (sky 1,15 drams).</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table class="i8"> + <tr><td><u>6132×106×1,35×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 3,56 lbs. for black, or 3 lbs. 8,96 ozs. 10,4 oz.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table class="i8"> + <tr><td><u>1680×106×1,15×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 0,83 lbs. for sky, or 0 lbs. 13,28 ozs.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<!-- Page 99 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99"></a>[pg 99]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td class="r">? lbs =</td><td>504 ends.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>110 yards.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">840 yards =</td><td>1 skein.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">(No. 100/2) 50 skeins = </td><td>1 lb.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table class="i8"> + <tr><td><u>504×110×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 1,37 lbs. scarlet cotton, or 1 lb. 5,92 ozs.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">840×50×100</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table> + <tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>—? lbs. =</td><td>100 yards</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>144 picks.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>21 inches.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>2,8 drams.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>108 (8% waste).</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <table class="i8"> + <tr><td><u>100×36×144×21×2,8×108</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 3,57 lbs., or 3 lbs. 9,12 ozs.</td></tr> + <tr><td class="c">36×1000×256×100</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 100 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100"></a>[pg 100]</span> + +<h3>JACQUARD WEAVES</h3> + + <p>Jacquard weaves usually show on a plain ground figure or flower + effects. To obtain these effects the ground is made of one weave, say + taffeta, while the figures or flowers are produced in another weave, say + satin.</p> + + <p>We enter the warp through a jacquard harness, and according to the + repeat use a 200, 400, 600, 900, 1200, etc., hook jacquard machine, which + means 200, 400, 600, 900 and 1200 ends per repeat.</p> + + <p>With a 600-hook machine a larger repeat can be produced than with a + 499-hook machine. For instance, if we want to make a cloth the figures of + which are to be two inches apart, it is a two-inch repeat, and use the + count of 50/4 or 200 ends per inch, we can use a 400-hook machine, 2 in. + x 200 ends. But we can make this cloth also on a 1200-hook machine, only + the repeat must be designed three times. The advantage of using a + 1200-hook machine with the count 50/4 is that 2, 3, 4, 6-inch repeats can + be produced, while with a 400-hook machine, only a 2-inch repeat can be + made.</p> + + <p>There is no end to all the different weaves and the possible flower + and other pattern effects that can be made with the jacquard machine. For + a jacquard weaving plant the designing is the most important factor.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>BOX LOOM WEAVES INCLUDING CREPES</h3> + + <p>Box looms are required for weaves such as bayadères, checks, plaids + (see pages 63-65), bengalines, crêpes, etc., where two or more shuttles + are needed to bring out the effect.</p> + + <p>For the crêpes (crêpe de chine, crêpe georgette) only two shuttles are + needed, while plaids and other articles are made with more shuttles.</p> + + <p>To weave such articles the loom or the lay must be fitted with two or + more shuttle boxes on one or both sides of the loom.</p> + +<!-- Page 101 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101"></a>[pg 101]</span> + + <p>If a manufacturer decides to change plain looms to box looms or buy + new box looms, it is wise to get 4 × 4 boxes, or four shuttle boxes on + each side.</p> + + <p>With these looms about everything can be made that is called for in + box-loom effects, and as styles change, it is wise to be prepared.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h3>MANUFACTURING COSTS</h3> + + <p>The calculator first ascertains for the warp: What silk will be used, + the cost of the same, total number of ends in the warps for the amount of + silk, cost of throwing, dyeing, winding, warping, twisting, entering, and + weaving.</p> + + <p>Then the filling: Silk to be used, how much, cost of silk, cost of + throwing, dyeing, winding, doubling, quilling.</p> + + <p>After this determine the cost of weaving, cloth picking, finishing, + factory costs, and selling expenses.</p> + + <p>To-day most of the operations are paid by "piece work."</p> + + <p>The calculator must always take into consideration that poor raw silk + or poor dyeing make production slow, increase the cost of labor, and also + that more waste will be made.</p> + + <p>THROWING: Regular organ usually has 16 turns per inch in the first + twist and 14 turns to the inch in the second or reverse twist. Tram + receives only one twisting, about three turns to the inch.</p> + + <p>As the warp twisting-in is paid for at so much per hundred or thousand + ends, no matter how short or long the warp is, it is a saving to make the + warps as long as possible, especially in raw, black and staple + colors.</p> + + <p>The calculator must not forget the cost of entering the first warp in + a harness, also the reeding.</p> + + <p>Most mills figure the cost of harness and reed in the expense + accounts. If plain and fancy goods are made an extra percentage should be + figured for the latter.</p> + +<!-- Page 102 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102"></a>[pg 102]</span> + + <p>EXPENSES are figured differently, as almost every manufacturer has his + own system. If a mill makes only a few staple articles it is easy to put + down the cost of expenses. Say the mill has a production of 500,000 yards + per year, that the expense amounts to $35,000, the cost then is 7 cents + per yard.</p> + + <p>Manufacturers making all kinds of goods sometimes figure the expenses + in percentage, say, for plain goods, with a few picks, like gros-grain, + peau de soie, etc., 10 per cent. per yard. Taffeta, satin, etc., having + more picks, 12½ per cent. per yard, and fancy and jacquard goods, 15 per + cent. per yard. In the expense account we include all charges except raw + silk, throwing, dyeing and piece work.</p> + + <p>SELLING EXPENSES. Before a calculation is finished we must add the + selling expenses to the cost, also take account of the trade discount. + Small mills usually sell through a commission house, which pays all + expenses and charges a certain commission. Many large firms have their + own selling end, and some have their sales guaranteed by a commission + house or a bank.</p> + +<!-- Page 103 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103"></a>[pg 103]</span> + +<h3>CALCULATIONS</h3> + + <p>The prices marked in the following calculations are about as in + "normal times." Absolutely correct piece work prices cannot be given as + different localities have different prices.</p> + + <p>Calculations are usually made per 100 yards, 100-meter warps.</p> + + <p>Most goods gain from 3 to 7 per cent. in weaving. That is, if we make + a warp of 300 meters for a satin and we obtain 315 yards of cloth, this + gain should not be calculated, as usually there is no account taken of + samples used in the selling department. But the loss in length should be + figured and taken account of on goods with a heavy rib, such as moiré, + faille, etc.</p> + + <p>DISP. 7—A 3 1/3-inch repeat can be obtained with a 600-hook + jacquard machine, seven repeats in a width of 23 inches.</p> + + <p>DISP. 8—Taffeta weave, but the two cotton picks must go in one + hole. This article can only be made with at least two shuttle boxes on + each side. For warping use a single and double cross reed, heavy cotton, + no knots must be tied.</p> + + <p>DISP. 10—This article must be warped with as much tension as + possible and no knots should be tied in. Silk is to be delivered on + bobbins from throwster.</p> + +<h4>CANTON CREPE</h4> + + <p>DISP. 9—Can also be made with Canton silk for filling and may be + called Canton crêpe. As Canton silk is much cheaper than Japan, the + manufacturer can use 4-thread Canton instead of 3-thread Japan for + filling at a little difference in cost, thus the cloth will be heavier, + but Canton silk is not as even and clean as Japan.</p> + +<!-- Page 104 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104"></a>[pg 104]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td colspan="4">Article—TAFFETA GLACE Reed 70/3</td></tr> + <tr><td>Disp. 1</td><td>Width 18¾ in.</td></tr> + <tr><td>Warp—</td><td>Ital. Ex. Class 12/14</td><td class="r">$5.00</td><td>raw silk</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.60</td><td>throwing</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. brown bright</td><td class="r">.45</td><td>dyeing</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>16-oz.</td><td class="r">.15</td><td>winding</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>raw lbs. 2.60</td><td class="r">$6.20</td><td></td><td>$16.23</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Warping—4032 at 3¢.</td><td class="r">1.21</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Twisting—3978 at 25¢. per 300 meters</td><td class="r">.33</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2">Filling—Jap. Tram. Best No. 1 13/15</td><td class="r">$4.25</td><td>raw silk</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.45</td><td>throwing</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>2/2 ends 104 picks</td><td class="r">.45</td><td>dyeing</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.15</td><td>winding</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>gold bright 16 oz.</td><td class="r">.15</td><td>doubling</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.10</td><td>quilling</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>raw lbs. 2.73</td><td class="r">$5.55</td><td></td><td class="r">15.02</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">7.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">7.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$48.79</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">5% trade discount</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">7½% selling commission</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 87½</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.5576</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<hr class="short" /> + + <table> + <tr><td colspan="4">Article—SURAH 3-1 Reed 80/2</td></tr> + <tr><td>Disp. 2</td><td>Width 36 in.</td></tr> + <tr><td>Warp—</td><td>Ital. Ex. Class. 10/12</td><td class="r">$5.20</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.65</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. bright black</td><td class="r">.81</td><td>discount 15%</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>24 oz.</td><td class="r">.30</td><td>dyed 20%</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>lbs. 3.36 </td><td class="r">$6.96</td><td></td><td>$23.39</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Warping—5904 at 2¾¢.</td><td class="r">1.62</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Twisting—5872 at 35¢.—600 lb. warp</td><td class="r">.25</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2">Filling—cotton 120/1</td><td class="r">$1.25</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.10</td><td>dye</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>black 1 end 120 picks</td><td class="r">.08</td><td>winding</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.07</td><td>quilling</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>lbs. 9.50</td><td class="r">$1.50</td><td></td><td class="r">14.25</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">12.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.50</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">2.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">7.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$62.01</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">5% discount</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">6% commission</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 89</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.6967</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<hr class="short" /> + +<!-- Page 105 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105"></a>[pg 105]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td colspan="4">Article—SATIN DUCHESSE Reed 66/4</td></tr> + <tr><td>Disp. 3</td><td>Width 2×23 in.</td></tr> + <tr><td>Warp—</td><td>Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14</td><td class="r">$5.00</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. black bright</td><td class="r">.73</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>22 oz.</td><td class="r">.21</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>lbs. 8.50</td><td class="r">$6.54</td><td></td><td class="r">$55.59</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Warping—12624 at 2¾¢</td><td class="r">3.47</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Twisting—12256 at 25¢. 600 meters</td><td class="r">.51</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2">Filling—Jap. Tram No. 1—14/16</td><td class="r">$4.00</td> <td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.40</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>black souple 44 oz.</td><td class="r">1.60</td><td>net</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.40</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>1/2 and 1/3 = 1/5 80 picks</td><td class="r">.40</td> <td>doubling</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.30</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>lbs. 7.14</td><td class="r">$7.10</td><td></td><td class="r">50.69</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">13.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">2.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">2.50</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">8.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$135.76</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 89</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.7627</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<hr class="short" /> + + <table> + <tr><td colspan="4">Article—ARMURE SATIN Reed 60/4</td></tr> + <tr><td>Disp. 4</td><td>Width 26 in.</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">STOCK AND DYE</td></tr> + <tr><td>Warp—</td><td>Jap. Ex. 12/14</td><td class="r">$4.75</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. black bright</td><td class="r">.64</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>20 oz.</td><td class="r">.19</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>lbs. 4.30</td><td class="r">$6.18</td><td></td><td class="r">$26.57</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Warping—6520 at 2¾¢.</td><td class="r">1.79</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Twisting—6424 at 25¢. 600 meters</td><td class="r">.27</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2">Filling—Jap. Tram No. 1 16/18</td><td class="r">$4.00</td> <td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.30</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>black bright 26 oz.</td><td class="r">.94</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.25</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>2/3 ends 104 picks</td><td class="r">.25</td> <td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.17</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>lbs. 6.80</td><td class="r">$5.91</td><td></td><td class="r">40.19</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">10.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">7.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$87.82</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 89</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.9867</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<hr class="short" /> + +<!-- Page 106 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106"></a>[pg 106]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td colspan="4">Article—PRINTED ARMURE Reed 52/2/2</td></tr> + <tr><td>Disp. 5</td><td>Width 18½ in.</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">STOCK AND DYE</td></tr> + <tr><td>Warp—</td><td>Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14</td><td class="r">$5.00</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. white bright</td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>P.D.</td><td class="r">.23</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.12</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>lbs. 2.62</td><td class="r">$5.95</td><td></td><td class="r">$15.59</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Warping—3984/1 at 3¢.</td><td class="r">1.20</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Twisting—1992/2 at 30¢. 300 meters</td><td class="r">.20</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2">Filling—Ital. Tram. souple 13/14</td><td class="r">$4.50</td> <td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.30</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>white bright P.D.</td><td class="r">.23</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.10</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>1/5 end 96 picks</td><td class="r">.07</td> <td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.17</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>lbs. 3.08</td><td class="r">$5.20</td><td></td><td class="r">16.02</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">8.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">5.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">8.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$55.01</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 87½</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.6287</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<hr class="short" /> + +<!-- Page 107 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107"></a>[pg 107]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td colspan="4">Article—SATIN STRIPED REPS Reed 60/62</td></tr> + <tr><td>Disp. 6</td><td>Width 20¼ in.</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">STOCK AND DYE</td></tr> + <tr><td>Warp—</td><td>Ital. Ex. Organ. 24/26</td><td class="r">$5.00</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>black bright 22 oz.</td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.73</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.21</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>lbs. 3.56</td><td class="r">$6.54</td><td></td><td class="r">$23.28</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>Ital. Ex. Organ. 18/20</td><td class="r">$5.20</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.65</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>sky bright P.D.</td><td class="r">.23</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.12</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>lbs. .83</td><td class="r">$6.20</td><td></td><td class="r">5.15</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>Cotton 100/2</td><td class="r">$1.00</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.12</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.08</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>scarlet lbs. 1.37</td><td class="r">$1.20</td><td></td><td class="r">1.64</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Warping—8316 at 4¢.</td><td class="r">3.32</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Twisting—7434 at 50¢. 300 meters</td><td class="r">1.24</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>Filling—Jap. tram. No. 1 14/16</td><td class="r">$4.00</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.35</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>scarlet bright 16 oz. 1/3 ends</td><td class="r">.45</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.15</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>144 picks. lbs. 3.57</td><td class="r">.10</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">$5.05</td><td></td><td class="r">18.04</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">12.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$66.67</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Expenses 15%</td><td class="r">10.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$76.67</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 87½</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.8763</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<hr class="short" /> + +<!-- Page 108 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108"></a>[pg 108]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td colspan="4">Article—MESSALINE BROCADE Reed 60/3</td></tr> + <tr><td>Disp. 7</td><td>Width 23 in.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>Warp—Jap. Ex. 13/15</td><td class="r">$4.50</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>2-Thread navy bright 16 oz.</td><td class="r">.45</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.15</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>lbs. 3.20</td><td class="r">$5.70</td><td></td><td class="r">$18.24</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Warping—4320 at 3¢.</td><td class="r">1.30</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Twisting—4260 at 30¢. 300 meters</td><td class="r">.41</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>Filling—Jap. Tram No. 1 13/15</td><td class="r">$4.00</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.35</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>emerald ex. bright dye 24 oz.</td><td class="r">.95</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.25</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>1/3 ends 100 picks</td><td class="r">.15</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>lbs. 2.50</td><td class="r">$5.70</td><td></td><td class="r">14.25</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">9.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$45.20</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Expenses 15%</td><td class="r">6.78</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$51.98</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 87½</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.5941</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<hr class="short" /> + + <table> + <tr><td colspan="4">Article—BENGALINE Reed 72/2 by 1 single; 1 double</td></tr> + <tr><td>Disp. 8</td><td>Width 36 in.</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>Warp—Jap. ex. 13/15</td><td class="r">$4.50</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. black bright</td><td class="r">.64</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>20 oz.</td><td class="r">.19</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>lbs. 5.77</td><td class="r">$5.93</td><td></td><td class="r">$34.22</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Warping—7964 at 2¾¢.</td><td class="r">2.19</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Twisting—5296 at 30¢. 600 meters</td><td class="r">.27</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2">Filling—56 picks by</td><td class="r">$4.50</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>5 organ. 2 Cotton</td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.64</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.19</td><td class="r">.45</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.12</td><td class="r">.10</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>40 picks Organ. as warp</td><td class="r">$6.05</td><td class="r">.08</td><td class="r">6.05</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td colspan="2">lbs. 1</td><td class="r">.07</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td colspan="2">16 picks black cotton 15/4</td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td colspan="2">lbs. 22.50</td><td class="r">$ .70</td><td class="r">15.75</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">12.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.50</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">3.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">8.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$82.98</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 91</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.9119</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<hr class="short" /> + +<!-- Page 109 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109"></a>[pg 109]</span> + + <table> + <tr><td colspan="4">Article—CREPE DE CHINE (Taffeta weave) Reed 60/2/2</td></tr> + <tr><td class="t">Disp. 9</td><td>Width 40 in.<br />44½ in. in reed</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>Warp—Jap. Ex. Grege 20/22</td><td class="r">$4.50</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.05</td><td>winding</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>2% waste lbs. 5.60</td><td class="r">$4.55</td><td></td><td class="r">$25.48</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Warping—5340/2 at 2½¢.</td><td class="r">2.67</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Twisting—5340/2 at 25¢. 600 meters</td><td class="r">.23</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2">Filling—Jap. No. 1 13/15</td><td class="r"></td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>4 ends hard twist 60 turns</td><td class="r">$4.00</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">1.25</td><td>throwing</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>84 picks by 2 right, 2 left twist</td><td class="r">0.05</td><td>quilling</td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>25% waste and shrinkage</td><td class="r">$5.30</td><td></td><td class="r"></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td colspan="3">lbs. 6.00</td><td class="r">31.80</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">9.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Finishing and dyeing</td><td class="r">5.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">7.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$82.18</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">5% discount</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">5% selling expense</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 90</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.9131</td></tr> + </table><p /> + + <hr class="short" /> + + <table> + <tr><td>Article—</td><td colspan="3">CREPE GEORGETTE Reed 50/2</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td colspan="3">(Taffeta weave) by 1 right, 1 left twist</td></tr> + <tr><td>Disp. 10</td><td>Width 40 in. 47 in. in reed</td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>Warp—Ital. Ex. Class 16/18 Raw</td><td class="r">$5.20</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">1.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>2-Thread hardtwist 75 turns</td><td class="r">$6.80</td><td></td><td class="r">$36.72</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">30% shrinkage and waste lbs. 5.40</td><td class="r"></td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Warping—4640/1 30/2 4760 at 4¢.</td><td class="r">1.90</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Twisting—4700 at 50¢. 600 meters</td><td class="r">.40</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Filling—Same silk as warp</td><td class="r"></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>100 picks by 2 right, 2 left twist</td><td class="r">$5.20</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">1.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.10</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">——</td><td></td><td></td></tr> + <tr><td></td><td>lbs. 5.00</td><td class="r">$6.90</td><td></td><td class="r">34.50</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">15.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Finishing and dyeing</td><td class="r">6.00</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$95.52</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4">Expenses 12½%</td><td class="r">11.94</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">——</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$107.46</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 87½</td></tr> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $1.2281</td></tr> + </table><p /> + +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 110 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110"></a>[pg 110]</span> + +<h3>CALCULATION BLANK</h3> + +<pre> + + ARTICLE REED + --------------------------------------------------------------------- + DISP WIDTH + --------------------------------------------------------------------- + WARP + --------------------------------------------------------------------- + | | | | | + --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+-------- + | | | | | + --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+-------- + | | | | | + --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+-------- + | | | | | + WARPING | | | | | + --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+-------- + TWISTING | | | | | + --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+-------- + FILLING | | | | | + --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+-------- + | | | | | + --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+-------- + | | | | | + WEAVING | | | | | + --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+-------- + PICKING | | | | | + --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+-------- + FINISHING | | | | | + --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+-------- + EXPENSES | | | | | + --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+-------- + | | | | | + | | | | | + --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+-------- + + PRICE PER YARD + +</pre> + +<hr /> + +<!-- Page 111 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111"></a>[pg 111]</span> + +<h3>INDEX</h3> + + <p>DRAWING-IN, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></p> + <p class="i2">Straight Draws, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></p> + <p class="i2">Skip Draws, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></p> + <p class="i2">Point Draws, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></p> + <p class="i2">Section Draws, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></p> + <p>THE WEAVES AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></p> + <p class="i2">The Taffeta Weave, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></p> + <p class="i2">Gros de Tours Weaves, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></p> + <p class="i2">Serge Weaves, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></p> + <p class="i2">Twill Weaves, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></p> + <p>FILLING EFFECTS <a href="#Page_21">21</a></p> + <p class="i2">Satin de Lyon, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></p> + <p class="i2">Levantine, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></p> + <p class="i2">Polonaise, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></p> + <p class="i2">Serge grosse coté, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></p> + <p class="i2">Serge Romaine, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></p> + <p class="i2">Serge, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></p> + <p>WARP EFFECTS, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></p> + <p class="i2">Levantine, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></p> + <p>EVENSIDED TWILLS, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></p> + <p class="i2">Surah, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></p> + <p class="i2">Croise, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></p> + <p>POINTED TWILLS, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></p> + <p>SATIN WEAVES, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></p> + <p class="i2">Satine de Chine, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></p> + <p class="i2">Satin Merveilleux, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></p> + <p class="i2">7 Harness Satin, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></p> + <p class="i2">Duchesse, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></p> + <p>IRREGULAR SATINS, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></p> + <p class="i2">Satin Ture, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></p> + <p class="i2">Satin à la Reine, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></p> + <p>DERIVATIVE WEAVES, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></p> + <p class="i2">From the Taffeta, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></p> + <p class="i2">From the Twills, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></p> + <p class="i2">From the Satin Weave, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></p> + <p class="i2">Cannele and Repp Weaves, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></p> + <p>DOUBLE FACED FABRICS, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></p> + <p class="i2">Warp Effects, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></p> + <p>FILLING EFFECTS, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></p> + <p class="i2">Pekins, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></p> + <p class="i2">Bayadères, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></p> + +<!-- Page 112 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112"></a>[pg 112]</span> + <p class="i2">Checks and Plaids, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></p> + <p>DECOMPOSITION, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></p> + <p class="i2">The Weave, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></p> + <p class="i2">Length and Width of the Fabric, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></p> + <p class="i2">The Stock and Its Dye, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></p> + <p class="i2">Reed Calculation, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></p> + <p class="i2">Drawing-in the Warp in Harness and Reed, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></p> + <p class="i2">Warping Ticket, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></p> + <p class="i2">Harness Arrangement, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></p> + <p class="i2">Reduction of the Filling, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></p> + <p class="i2">Calculation of Warp and Filling, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></p> + <p class="i2">Finishing, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></p> + <p class="i2">Calculation of Cost, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></p> + <p>DISPOSITIONS, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></p> + <p>JACQUARD WEAVES, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></p> + <p class="i2">Box Loom Weaves Including Crêpes, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></p> + <p class="i2">Manufacturing Costs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></p> + <p>CALCULATIONS, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></p> + <p class="i2">Calculation Blank, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></p> + +<!-- Page 113 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113"></a>[pg 113]</span> + +<div style="margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%;"> + +<h1 style="font-weight:normal; line-height:1.75em;"> +<span style="font-size:150%;">OTHER BOOKS</span><br /> +<span style="font-size:60%;">Published by</span><br /> +<span style="font-size:100%;">CLIFFORD & LAWTON</span><br /> +</h1> + +<p class="c">373 Fourth Avenue New York.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h1 style="font-weight:normal; line-height:1.75em;"> +<span style="font-size:100%;">THE AMERICAN SILK JOURNAL</span><br /> +</h1> + + <p>Established 1882. A monthly magazine devoted exclusively to dress + silks, ribbons, and all silken materials, reflecting the progress of mill + and market, fashions, trade events and news. Published on the first of + each month.</p> + + <p>Subscription: United States, $3; Canada, $3.50; Foreign, $4 a + year.</p> + +<p> </p> + +<h1 style="font-weight:normal;"> +<span style="font-size:100%;">SERIVALOR</span><br /> +<span style="font-size:80%;">or the True Value of Raw Silk</span><br /> +</h1> +<h3>By ADOLF ROSENZWEIG,</h3> + + <p class="c">The great international authority on silk.</p> + + <p>A practical and logical + system of standardizing raw silks. Price, $4.25 postpaid.</p> + +<p> </p> + +<h1 style="font-weight:normal;"> +<span style="font-size:100%;">DICTIONARY OF SILK TERMS</span><br /> +</h1> + + <p>The most complete and authentic dictionary ever published on silk + terms, from the raw silk to the finished broad and narrow silks, + including weaves, styles, patterns, effects, colors, trade-marks, etc. + Bound in cloth, 93 pages, price, $1.50 postpaid.</p> + +<p> </p> +<h1 style="font-weight:normal;"> +<span style="font-size:100%;">COLOR VALUE</span><br /> +</h1> +<h3>By C.R. CLIFFORD.</h3> + + <p>A valuable book treating on color contrasts and harmonies. It will + assist the manufacturer, styler, designer and retailer in the selection + of colors. Colored plates and diagrams illustrating the fundamental + principles of the subject, of inestimable value to either student or + artisan. Price, $1.50 postpaid.</p> + +<p> </p> +<h1 style="font-weight:normal;"> +<span style="font-size:100%;">PERIOD FURNISHINGS</span><br /> +</h1> +<h3>By C.R. CLIFFORD.</h3> + + <p>An encyclopedia of furnishings, decorations, furniture. Contains 2,731 + illustrations, 266 pages, size 9¼ x 12; 112 fabric illustrations, + covering all periods. Price, $6.00 postpaid.</p> +</div> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14600 ***</div> +</body> +</html> |