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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14600 ***
+
+                                                                   [Page 1]
+THEORY OF SILK WEAVING
+
+
+                                                                   [Page 3]
+THEORY OF SILK WEAVING
+
+A Treatise on the Construction and Application of Weaves, and the
+Decomposition and Calculation of Broad and Narrow, Plain, Novelty and
+Jacquard Silk Fabrics
+
+Containing 95 Plates
+
+_By_ ARNOLD WOLFENSBERGER
+
+Graduate of the Textile Institute of Zurich, Switzerland
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Second Revised and Enlarged Edition
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NEW YORK
+
+_Issued by_ THE AMERICAN SILK JOURNAL
+
+CLIFFORD & LAWTON
+
+_Publishers_
+
+_1921_
+
+                                                                   [Page 4]
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+COPYRIGHT. 1921. by CLIFFORD & LAWTON
+
+_All rights reserved_
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+GROLIER CRAFT PRESS, Printers. 229 West Twenty-eighth Street, New York City
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                   [Page 5]
+PREFACE
+
+The silk industry of America has of late years rapidly advanced to the
+front rank among the great textile industries of the world. It may indeed
+be proud of this position, to which that enterprising spirit and untiring
+energy peculiar to our nation, combined with our great technical and
+natural resources, has brought it.
+
+That we are, on the other hand, not yet at the height of perfection we are
+also compelled to acknowledge, but if we consider the short space of time
+that the American industry has required for its development, as compared to
+the decades, almost centuries, to which some of the great European silk
+centers can look back, the fact is neither surprising nor discouraging.
+
+While it must not be our aim to imitate or copy their ways, inasmuch as out
+conditions and circumstances are quite different from theirs, we may still
+profitably study their methods in order to overcome our deficiencies.
+
+The greatest advantage which our competitors derive from such a long
+existence consists in having at their disposal a force of skilful, trained
+help. The manufacturers, appreciating the importance of this factor, make
+great efforts and pecuniary sacrifices to elevate and maintain the high
+standard of their industry.
+
+For instance, they support textile schools and lecture courses, where young
+men can acquire a thorough technical education and equip themselves for a
+career of usefulness, thereby serving their own interests and at the same
+time furthering those of their chosen profession.
+
+                                                                   [Page 6]
+This beneficial influence cannot fail to exert itself from the standard of
+the higher employer down to that of the weaver, who would naturally take
+more pains and interest in his work than if he were a mere mechanical
+appendage to his loom in order to keep it in motion.
+
+Very little has been done in his country for technical education as far as
+the silk industry is concerned, and it was on this special branch, that
+prompted the author to offer in the present little work a treatise on the
+theory of shaft weaving for broad silks and ribbons.
+
+It is divided into three principal parts:
+
+  #1st. Drawing-in the warp in the harness.
+  2nd. The weaves and their application.
+  3rd. Decomposition or analysis of the cloth.#
+
+To the foregoing there have been added in the revised and enlarged edition
+several additional parts covering the following: JACQUARD WEAVES, BOX LOOM
+WEAVES, including CREPES, and COST CALCULATIONS for plain and fancy weaves.
+
+The subject while condensed, is made as clear and comprehensible as
+possible, and to many desirous of increasing their knowledge in this
+direction, this should prove a valuable help.
+
+The author, through the medium of this work, hopes to win the approval and
+encouragement of the manufacturers, and will feel amply repaid should his
+efforts tend to develop a deeper interest in the "Queen of Textiles."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                   [Page 7]
+THEORY OF SILK WEAVING
+
+DRAWING-IN
+
+With this term we designate the operation preceding the weaving, by which
+all the warp-threads are drawn through the heddles of the harness.
+
+The order in which this is done varies according to the weave and the
+nature of the fabric to be produced; so we distinguish:
+
+  #Straight draws,
+  Skip draws,
+  Point draws,
+  Section draws.#
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+STRAIGHT DRAWS
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 1]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                   [Page 8]
+[Illustration: Fig. 2]
+
+These form the simplest and most common method of drawing-in. We begin with
+the first heddle on the left side of the shaft _nearest to the warp-beam_,
+then take the first heddle of second shaft and so on until all the shafts
+the set contains are used in rotation. This completes one "draw," and this
+operation is repeated until all the warp-threads are taken up.
+
+The method of making the shaft nearest to the warp-beam the first, is
+almost universal with the silk business and is technically called
+_drawing-in from back to front_.
+
+The opposite, or drawing in from _front to rear_, is used occasionally,
+however, and in this case makes the first heddle on the left hand side of
+the front shaft No. 1.
+
+The making out of the _Drawing-in Draft_, which must indicate the
+arrangement or the rotation in which the warp-threads are drawn in, can be
+done in various ways, of which we will mention the two most popular
+methods. The first is by using common designing paper, and indicating the
+rotation by dots. The horizonal rows of squares represent the shafts, the
+vertical rows the warp-threads. Fig. 1 shows four repeats of a straight
+draw on six harness marked out according to this idea. A second method is
+to use paper ruled horizontally, the lines representing the shafts; and to
+draw vertical lines for the warp-threads. The latter are made to stop on
+                                                                   [Page 9]
+the lines bearing the number of the shafts into which the respective
+threads are to be drawn. Fig. 2 is such a draft, illustrating six repeats
+of a draw on four harness from "Front to Rear."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SKIP DRAWS
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 3]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 4]
+
+The draws coming under this heading are used very extensively in silk
+weaving, especially for fabrics requiring a heavy warp and a large number
+of shafts. Enter first the odd and then the even shafts. An 8 harness draw
+of this kind, of which three repeats are shown in Fig. 3, runs as follows:
+1, 3, 5, 7, 2, 4, 6, 8.
+
+Fig. 4 is a 12 harness draw of the same class.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+POINT DRAWS
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 5]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 10]
+[Illustration: Fig. 6]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 7]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 8]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 9]
+
+                                                                  [Page 11]
+Point draws are a combination of a regular straight draw from back to front
+and one from front to back, the first and the last shafts only being used
+once, while the rest receive two ends each in one repeat of the draw. Fig.
+5 illustrates a regular point draw in 2 repeats on 10 shafts. It will be
+seen that 14 ends make a repeat; in fact, the number of warp-threads
+required for one draw will always be double the number of harness less 2,
+hence a 12 harness regular point draw will require 22 warp-threads for a
+repeat.
+
+The drawing-in draft illustrated in Fig. 6 is a slight variation of the
+regular point draw; it consists, as will be seen, of a draw from back to
+front, and also a full one from front to back, there by causing a _double
+point_.
+
+Another change from the regular point draw is illustrated in Figs. 7 and 8;
+this class may be called _Broken point draws_, because a new draw is begun
+before the other one is complete. Fig. 9 also comes in this class and
+represents a _zigzag draw_ on 10 harness.
+
+The drawing-in drafts which we have described under the head of "Point
+draws," are used mostly to obtain the various pointed and zigzag effects.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SECTION DRAWS
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 10]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 12]
+[Illustration: Fig. 11]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 12]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 13]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 14]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 13]
+[Illustration: Fig. 15]
+
+This division of drawing-in drafts is used extensively in silk
+manufacturing; for instance, in all fabrics having a ground warp and a
+binder warp, also in double-face goods, or where two different weaves are
+combined in one effect.
+
+One or more threads are drawn on the first section, then one or more on a
+second and third, if the harness is divided in so many sets.
+
+The following examples will illustrate the principle of these draws.
+
+In Fig. 10, shafts 1, 2, 3, 4 from the first set, shafts 5 and 6 the
+second, 8 threads are drawn straight on the first, then 2 on the second
+section.
+
+Fig. 11, first set shafts 1 to 6 inclusive, second set shafts 7 and 8.
+
+Fig. 12 is drawn end and end on two sections having 8 shafts each.
+
+Figs. 13, 14 and 15, while not strictly belonging to the class of section
+draws, may, however, be considered under this heading. The idea is to draw
+a certain number of ends in one part of the harness and another group in
+another part, be it straight, point or skip, which will cause the effect on
+the cloth to be accordingly transposed or broken up.
+
+                                                                  [Page 15]
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE WEAVES AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION
+
+In any woven fabric we distinguish two systems of threads, the _Warp or
+Chain_, running lengthways in the cloth, and the _Filling or Weft_,
+crossing the former at right angles.
+
+This crossing or interlacing consists of every individual warp-thread being
+placed alternately under and over one or more threads of the filling
+system. The arrangement of this interlacing is technically called the
+_Weave_, and the variety in which the points of crossing can be distributed
+is practically endless.
+
+It is principally the weave that lends to a fabric its character,
+influenced, of course, by the material used, the size and tension of the
+threads and the combination of the colors.
+
+The weaves are divided into three main classes: _the Foundation weaves_. In
+the silk business they are known under the following names:
+
+  #The Taffeta Weave,
+  The Serge Weave,
+  The Satin Weave.#
+
+In the foundation weaves each thread effects only one crossing in one
+repeat of the weave, and the points of interlacing occur in a given
+rotation. A repeat in the foundation weaves comprises the same number of
+warp-threads as of _picks_ or filling threads, and if this number is 8, for
+                                                                  [Page 16]
+instance, the weave is called an 8-shaft or an 8-harness weave. In marking
+out a weave, the warp-threads are represented by vertical lines, the
+filling by horizontal ones, or in each case by the space between these
+lines. The places where a warp-thread lies over the filling are marked with
+paint or simply with a cross. In a similar manner we mark out the _chain
+draft_, which indicates the rotation in which the shafts are raised.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 17]
+THE TAFFETA WEAVE
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 16]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 17]
+
+                                                                  [Page 18]
+This is the simplest and oldest method of interlacing. The odd numbers of
+warp-threads cross the even numbers after every pick; hence of two
+warp-threads one will always go over the first pick and under the second,
+and the other end under the first and over the second pick. Taffeta cloth,
+therefore, has the same appearance on both sides, and in cotton and wool
+weaving this weave is technically--and properly indeed--called the _Plain
+Weave_. It has the smallest repeat, 2 warp-threads and 2 picks, and the
+exchanging of warp and filling is the most frequent possible. The cloth
+thus produced is firmer and stronger than that obtained with any other
+weave.
+
+Fig. 16 is a taffeta on 4 shafts straight draw, the draft executed in the
+manner which we have already mentioned in explaining the drawing-in drafts.
+
+Fig. 17 on common designing paper, illustrates a taffeta made on 8-harness,
+skip draw.
+
+Be it mentioned that the drawing-in draft and the chain draft will be added
+throughout this work, the former over the weave to correspond with the
+respective warp-threads, the latter to the right of the drawing-in draft.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 19]
+GROS DE TOURS WEAVES
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 18]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 19]
+
+In this weave the working of the warp is the same as in taffeta, except
+that instead of one pick, two or more are inserted in the same shed. It is
+mostly used in selvedges, where it serves to give more firmness to the edge
+of an otherwise loosely woven cloth, and prevents the weaving ahead of the
+edge in a tight weave. Gros de Tours is sometimes used, especially when
+cotton or wool filling is employed, with a view to lay two picks nicely
+side by side, whereas a thread entered two ply with the taffeta weave will
+always receive some twist, which may disturb the perfect evenness of the
+fabric.
+
+Fig. 18 is a Gros de Tours with two picks on four harness straight through.
+
+Fig. 19 illustrates this weave with three picks drawn end and end on two
+sections of four shafts each.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 20]
+SERGE or TWILL WEAVES
+
+While the taffeta weave produces either an entirely smooth fabric, or one
+with a distinct transverse rib as in gros-grain, the twill weave forms
+diagonal lines on the cloth, running either from left to right or from
+right to left.
+
+To make a twill, not less than three ends and three picks are required, of
+which each thread floats over two of the other system and interlaces with
+the third. The rotation of the interlacing is always consecutive, that is
+it moves with each succeeding pick one thread to the right (or to the left
+if the lines are to run in that direction). If warp and filling have the
+same texture, that is the same number of threads in a given space, the
+twill lines will form an angle of 45°; if the warp stands closer than the
+filling, the incline will be steeper, and in the opposite case the angle
+will approach more the horizontal.
+
+The weaves can be expressed in numbers, for instance: the 3-end twill warp
+effect would be marked 2-1, which indicates that each warp-thread goes over
+two and under one pick.
+
+Twill weaves are called _evensided_ when the arrangement of "warp up" and
+"filling up" are evenly balanced, and _unevensided_ if either warp or
+filling predominate on the face of the fabric; the latter class is
+therefore subdivided in _Warp effects_ and _Filling effects_.
+
+In the following a number of serge weaves are illustrated, the French
+designations being added in some cases, as they are still extensively used
+in the trade.
+
+                                                                  [Page 21]
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+FILLING EFFECTS
+
+_Satin de Lyon,_ 2-1.
+
+On 6 harness straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 20]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Levantine,_ 3-1<h/5>
+
+On 8 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 21]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 22]
+_Polonaise,_ 5-1
+
+On 12 harness skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 22]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Serge grosse côte,_ 7-1
+
+On 8 shafts straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 23]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 23]
+_Serge remaine,_ 6-2
+
+On 8 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 24]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Serge,_ 5-1, 1-1.
+
+On 8 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 25]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 24]
+_Serge,_ 4-2, 1-1, 1-1.
+
+On 10 harness straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 26]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Serge,_ 7-1, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1.
+
+On 16 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 27]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 25]
+WARP EFFECTS
+
+_Levantine,_ 3-1.
+
+On 4 shafts straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 28]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Serge,_ 5-1, 1-1.
+
+On 8 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 29]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 26]
+EVENSIDED TWILLS
+
+_Surah,_ 2-2
+
+On 4 shafts straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 30]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Croise,_ 3-3, 2-2, 1-1.
+
+On 12 shafts straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 31]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 27]
+_Serge,_ 7-7, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1
+
+On 20 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 32]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+POINTED TWILLS
+
+in the direction of the filling and also of the warp.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 33]
+
+On 4 shafts point draw, weave 3-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 28]
+[Illustration: Fig. 34]
+
+    On 6 shafts point draw, drawn as follows:
+
+    Eighteen ends from back to front and 4 ends from front to rear, weave
+    5-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 35]
+
+On 8 shafts pointed draw, weave 5-1, 1-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 29]
+[Illustration: Fig. 36]
+
+On 10 shafts, with weave 3-3, drawn as follows:
+
+  7 threads from back to front.
+  3    "      "  front to rear.
+  6    "      "  back to front.
+  2    "      "  front to rear.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 37]
+
+On 6 shafts straight draw, pointed weave 5-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 30]
+[Illustration: Fig. 38]
+
+On 8 shafts straight through, pointed weave 5-1, 1-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 39]
+
+_Broken pointed twill_, on 8 harness.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 31]
+[Illustration: Fig. 40]
+
+On 6 shafts point draw, pointed weave 5-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 41]
+
+On 8 shafts point draw, pointed weave 5-1, 1-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 32]
+[Illustration: Fig. 42]
+
+_Fancy twill_, on 16 shafts straight draw.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SATIN WEAVES
+
+The distinct diagonal lines which characterize the class of weaves
+explained in the previous chapter are absent in the satin weaves; and while
+the interlacing in the former is done in a strictly consecutive order, we
+endeavor to scatter the points of stitching in the latter as much as
+possible, in order to create an entirely smooth and brilliant surface on
+                                                                  [Page 33]
+the cloth.
+
+In all satins the number of ends in a repeat is the same in warp and
+filling.
+
+The lowest repeat of a regular satin comprises five threads of each system,
+and the interlacing is done in the following order:
+
+  The 1st pick with the 1st warp-thread
+   "  2d   "       "    3d      "
+   "  3d   "       "    5th     "
+   "  4th  "       "    2d      "
+   "  5th  "       "    4th     "
+
+Fig. 43 illustrates this weave. An examination of the rotation, as given
+above, will show that every warp-thread intersects two picks apart from its
+neighbor. The number "2" is in this case what is technically known as the
+_counter_, that is the number which indicates the points of interlacing by
+adding it to number 1 and continuing so until all the warp-threads are
+taken up.
+
+The following is the rule to find the counter for any regular satin:
+
+Divide the number of harness into two parts, which must neither be equal
+nor have a common divisor. Any of these two numbers can be used for
+counting off, but usually the smaller one is taken. According to this rule
+we obtain a regular satin
+
+  On  5 harness with counter 2
+   "  7    "          "      2 or 3
+   "  8    "          "      3
+   "  9    "          "      2 or 4
+   " 10    "          "      3
+   " 11    "          "      2, 3, 4 or 5
+   " 12    "          "      5
+   " 13    "          "      2, 3, 4, 5 or 6
+   " 14    "          "      3 or 5
+   " 15    "          "      2, 4 or 7
+   " 16    "          "      3, 5 or 7.
+
+                                                                  [Page 34]
+The 4 harness broken twill, Fig. 53, is sometimes classed among the satins.
+
+The 6 harness satin, Fig. 54, is irregular; as a counter cannot be derived
+from number 6 by the given rule. The rotation generally used is 1, 3, 6, 4,
+2, 5.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Regular Satins
+
+_5 harness Satin, "Satin de Chine."_
+
+Straight draw, counter 2.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 43]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_7 harness Satin, "Satin Merveilleux."_
+
+Skip draw, counter 2.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 44]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 35]
+_7 harness satin_
+
+Straight draw, counter 3.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 45]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_8 harness satin "Duchese"_
+
+Skip draw, counter 3.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 46]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 36]
+_9 harness satin_
+
+Straight draw, counter 4.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 47]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_10 harness satin_
+
+Straight draw, counter 3.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 48]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 37]
+_11 harness satin_
+
+Skip draw, counter 5.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 49]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_12 harness satin_
+
+Skip draw, counter 5.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 50]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 38]
+_16 harness satin_
+
+On 2 sections of 8 shafts each, drawn end and end, counter 7.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 51]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 39]
+_8 harness satin, warp effect._
+
+Straight draw, counter 3.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 52]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+IRREGULAR SATINS
+
+_Satin Turc._
+
+On 4 shafts straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 53]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 40]
+_Satin à la Reine_
+
+On 6 shafts straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 54]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 41]
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+DERIVATIVE WEAVES
+
+#1. From the Taffeta#
+
+_Royale_ is a modification of the regular Gros de Tours, inasmuch as the
+rib line, which in the latter runs straight across the cloth, is broken off
+after a given number of warp-threads. These groups, which may comprise 8,
+12 or more threads, will interlace each one pick higher than the preceding
+one.
+
+_Royale of 8 ends_
+
+On 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 55]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Velours Ottoman or Faille française._
+
+In order to obtain a broader rib than that of Gros de Tours, and at the
+same time to lend firmness to the fabric, we add to the ground warp, which
+forms the ribs, another or binder warp, which works continually taffeta,
+                                                                  [Page 42]
+while the ground warp changes only every 3 or 4 picks for the rib.
+
+_Faille française._
+
+  4 ends of ground on the first section of 8 shafts, skip draw.
+  1   "     binder    "   second    "      2   "
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 56]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Velours Ottoman without a Binder-warp._
+
+In this weave, of which Fig. 57 illustrates a specimen, comprising 8
+warp-threads and 32 picks in a repeat, the rib contains 4 picks. Of the 8
+warp-threads, 3 float over and 3 under the rib, while the 2 others bind
+taffeta, which latter function is executed by 2 other threads in the next
+rib.
+
+                                                                  [Page 43]
+[Illustration: Fig. 57]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+2. From the Twills
+
+One variety is obtained by interlacing the warp-threads alternately one or
+more picks behind, and then a number of picks ahead of their respective
+neighbors; so the complete arrangement of the points of binding in a repeat
+will generally form two parallel diagonal lines. This will cause the twill
+lines to appear less pronounced than is the case in the regular twill, and
+the character of the fabric approaches more that of the satin.
+
+                                                                  [Page 44]
+[Illustration: Fig. 58]
+
+_Satin Sergé._
+
+On 8 shafts, straight draw.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 59]
+
+_Côte Satinée._
+
+On 16 harness, skip draw.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Rhadzimir-Surah 2-2._ After a certain number of picks of the regular surah
+all the warp-threads are crossed in two's thereby causing a sort of a rib
+or cut line across the fabric.
+
+                                                                  [Page 45]
+_Rhadzimir of 4 picks._
+
+On 8 shafts, straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 60]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Rhadzimir of 6 picks._
+
+On 8 shafts, straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 61]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 46]
+3. From the Satin Weave
+
+_Satin Soleil_ shows a satin-like surface with a cross line appearance.
+Fig. 62 illustrates it as made on 8 shafts, straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 62]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Satin Grec_ is a 12-harness satin, in which a taffeta point is added to
+each place of interlacing, thus giving the cloth a much firmer hand. Fig.
+63 represents this weave on 12 shafts, skip draw.
+
+                                                                  [Page 47]
+[Illustration: Fig. 63]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Peau de Soie._ An 8-shaft satin with one point added on the right or left
+to the original spots, giving the fabric a somewhat grainy appearence. Fig.
+64 represents a peau de soie on 8 shafts, straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 64]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 48]
+_Fleur de Soie._ The face is a satin de Lyon (2-1 twill), with a backing
+interlaced on the 12-shaft satin principle, Fig. 65, on 12 shafts, skip
+draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 65]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 49]
+CANNELE and REPP WEAVES
+
+are in their construction related to the taffeta, and are used mostly in
+the form of stripes as an additional ornament to a fabric. The threads
+going into the composition of these effects exchange continually from
+taffeta interlacing to floating over a certain number of threads, and must
+be introduced either in warp or filling close enough to make the floats
+cover up the taffeta work entirely, and thus enable the material used to
+show up with the full brilliancy it possesses.
+
+Cannele effects can be produced in two distinct ways. One is to let every
+individual thread work alternately taffeta and float, while in the other
+method one thread weaves always taffeta, and a second thread is used for
+the cannele exclusively. These latter threads must come from a separate
+warp, which is introduced to embellish the ground or taffeta part of the
+fabric.
+
+The floating threads can either stitch all on one pick and so form a
+continuous cut line, or be divided in groups, of which one will bind in the
+middle of the floats of the other group. The following designs show both
+the face and backside of the respective weaves:
+
+                                                                  [Page 50]
+_Alternating Cannele_ of 6 picks.
+
+On 4 shafts, straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 66]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Canelle_ (2 beams). Over 3 picks, interlacing on every fourth pick, drawn
+end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 67]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 51]
+_Cannele_ over 5 picks, binding on the sixth, but every second thread
+advanced 3 picks (to the middle of the float of the first thread), drawn
+end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 68]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 52]
+_Cannele_ arranged in groups of 8 threads, floating over 6 picks and
+binding on the seventh and eighth, drawn on 2 sections, with 4 shafts in
+first and 2 in second section.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 69]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Repp_ on 8 shafts straight through. Rotation of filling. 1 pick taffeta, 1
+pick float (rib).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 70]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 53]
+_Repp_ of 8 threads, on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 ends per section.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 71]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Repp_ of 5 threads, binding on the sixth; every second pick binds on the
+middle of the first pick. On 6 harness straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 72]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 54]
+_Repp_ in groups, floating over 6 ends and binding on the seventh and
+eighth on 8 shafts straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 73]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 55]
+DOUBLE FACED FABRICS
+
+In this class we find either two systems of warp or of filling so combined
+that only one will be visible on either side. The color on one side is
+generally different from the other, and so may the interlacing be of a
+different nature on face and back. In the latter case great care must be
+exercised not to allow the weave on one side to disturb the one on the
+other, and as a rule the points of interlacing of the first warp or filling
+system are placed as much as possible in the middle of the floats of the
+second. This will prevent either color or weave to be seen on the opposite
+side, as the floats of one side will naturally lay themselves over the
+binders of the other. The number of ends in a repeat of the two weaves must
+either be alike or one a multiple of the other.
+
+Warp Effects
+
+_Levantine_ on 8 shafts straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 74]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 56]
+_Serge_ 6-2 on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 75]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+8 _shaft satin_ on 2 sections of 8 harness each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 76]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 57]
+12 _shaft satin_ on 2 sections of 12 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 77]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Cannele_ of 8 picks on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 78]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 58]
+FILLING EFFECTS
+
+_Serge_ 5-1 on 6 harness straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 79]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+10 _harness satin_ on 10 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 80]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 59]
+_Repp_ on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 threads per section.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 81]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 60]
+PEKINS
+
+With this name we designate fabrics in which stripes of a different
+interlacing run in the direction of the warp. In combining these weaves it
+is advantageous to have them contrast distinctly, for instance, a short
+weave such as taffeta or Gros de Tours, with a longer and looser one such
+as satin, sergé or cannele, also changes from warp to filling effects. Care
+must be taken to arrange the joining of the two weaves so that the last
+thread of one weave will cross the first thread of the other. This will
+prevent the threads from either stripe to slide over into the other, and so
+make a clean cut line.
+
+#Pekin.# A stripe of
+
+   2 dents of 8 ends each, 8 shaft Satin, on 8 shafts straight draw.
+  12     "    2     "      Taffeta         " 4    "       "      "
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 82]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 61]
+#Pekin#. A stripe of
+
+  12 ends Cannele of 6 picks on 1st section of 4 shafts.
+  12   "   Repp   "  6 threads on 2d and 3d section of 2 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 83]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 62]
+#Pekin.# A stripe of
+
+  10 ends 5 leaf Satin on the 1st section of 5 shafts straight draw.
+   4   "  Taffeta        "    3d    "        2    "      "       "
+  18   "  Serge 3-1, 1-1 "    2d    "        6    "      "       "
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 84]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 63]
+BAYADÈRES
+
+While pekins are formed by warp stripes, bayadère shows us stripes of
+different weaves running in the direction of the filling. The rules given
+in the previous chapter as to the joining of the weaves will also apply
+here. The warp which was raised on the last pick of the weave must stay
+down wherever possible on the first pick of the following weave. The number
+of shafts employed must go up evenly in the repeat of each one of the
+weaves that go into the make up of the bayadère.
+
+#Bayadère#
+
+  A stripe of 24 picks Gros de Tours  }
+                                      }  on 8 shafts straight through.
+     "         8   "   8-shaft Satin, }
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 85]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 64]
+#Bayadère#
+
+  A stripe of 18 picks 6-shaft Satin  }
+      "        6   "   Serge 5-1,     } on 6 shafts, straight draw.
+      "        4   "   Taffeta,       }
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 86]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 65]
+CHECKS AND PLAIDS
+
+If pekin and bayadère stripes are combined, we obtain checked fabrics, and
+of these an endless variety and pleasing effects can be produced with the
+aid of suitable color combinations.
+
+#Check#
+
+  of 16 threads and 12 picks of the 4 end broken twill,
+  and 16   "     "  12   "   "  Royale of 8 threads,
+          drawn on 4 sections of 4 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 87]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 66]
+#Check#
+
+  of 20 threads and 16 picks of 8-shaft Satin,
+  "  20    "     "  16   "   "  Taffeta,
+                     4   "   "  Surah 3-1,
+  drawn on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 88]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 67]
+DECOMPOSITION
+
+Under the name of _Disposition_ we comprise all those points and details
+which we must ascertain before we can proceed with the construction of a
+fabric. They are:
+
+  1. #The weave.#
+
+  2. #Length and width of the cloth.#
+
+  3. #The stock and the dyeing thereof.#
+
+  4. #Reed calculation# (number of dents and ends per inch and total number
+      of dents required).
+
+  5. #Drawing-in the warp in harness and reed.#
+
+  6. #Texture and arrangement of warp# (warping ticket)
+
+  7. #Arrangement of harness.#
+
+  8. #Reduction of filling.#
+
+  9. #Calculation of warp and filling.#
+
+  10. #Finishing.#
+
+  11. #Calculation of cost.#
+
+                                                                  [Page 68]
+1. THE WEAVE
+
+If a given sample is to be reproduced or imitated, it must be analyzed, and
+the following hints will greatly facilitate this operation to the beginner.
+
+Cut the sample straight on two sides, and draw out a number of warp and
+filling threads until there is a small fringe of perhaps ¼ of an inch. This
+will allow a thread to be raised a little for examination, without danger
+of its falling out of the fabric. In most cases it is easier to dissect the
+filling side, that is, the interlacing of each warp-thread in the threads
+of the filling system. With the help of the microscope or counting glass we
+can easily determine over and under how many picks that thread passes and
+the points of interlacing are accordingly marked on designing paper. This
+being done for at least the length of a repeat warpways, we take it out and
+examine the following thread, and so on until the repeat filling-ways is
+complete. It is advisable to ascertain how many picks ahead or back of the
+first examined thread the next following one binds before taking the former
+out.
+
+A knowledge of the construction of weaves as explained in the foregoing
+chapters will enable us to determine the weave of a simple pattern by
+merely raising a warp-thread with a needle on any point of interlacing and
+counting off how many picks apart from this place it makes an impression.
+
+2. LENGTH AND WIDTH OF THE FABRIC
+
+To the length and width which the finished product is to have, we must add
+a certain allowance for shrinkage and _taking up_ of warp during weaving.
+It may differ from one to ten per cent., according to the texture and weave
+of the fabric, and can be ascertained with sufficient accuracy by
+stretching out and measuring a thread of warp and filling and comparing
+their length with the respective measurements of the sample to be
+reproduced.
+
+                                                                  [Page 69]
+3. THE STOCK AND ITS DYE
+
+Under this heading we must give the particulars as to nature, _twist_,
+_quality_ and _size_ of the silk, and the directions for the dyeing,
+whether _bright_ or _souple_, and in what colors, also whether to be
+weighted or not.
+
+The size is generally ascertained (in practical work) by comparing it with
+other silk of which the exact count is known. Another method is to count
+the number of cocoon threads which a thread of the sample contains, adding
+to that 1/3 or ¼, according to the quality of the silk; the result will be
+the count in deniers. To obtain it in drams, divide the latter number by
+17,3 as 1 dram is equal to 17,3 deniers.
+
+Suppose we find 20 cocoon ends in a thread of silk: add 1/3, and we have
+26-2/3 deniers, which, divided by 17,3 make 1,54 drams.
+
+As silk is always more or less uneven, it is safer to count the cocoon
+fibers of several threads and to take average thereof.
+
+It requires the experience of years to judge with any degree of certainty
+as to the origin and quality of silk, whether it be "classical," "extra,"
+"sublime," etc.
+
+There are machines wherewith to ascertain exactly the twist, that is, the
+number of turns the silk has received in the throwing process.
+
+In the dyeing we distinguish two great classes, of which the names
+themselves give a good definition. "Bright" has a brilliant luster, while
+"souple" has more of a dull, subdued appearance. To find out whether the
+silk has been weighted in the dyeing process, we may compare it with other
+silk of which the exact conditions are known, or we may burn a small
+quantity of it. Unweighted silk does not burn readily and leaves a residue
+of white ashes, while heavy weighted silk burns lively, leaving black,
+charry ashes.
+
+                                                                  [Page 70]
+4. REED CALCULATION
+
+We count the number of repeats of the weave in a given space, generally ¼
+or ½ inch, and multiply this with the number of threads one repeat
+contains, which gives us the reduction of the warp.
+
+Suppose we had a taffeta, which, as we know, has only 2 ends to a repeat,
+and counted 30 interlacings per ¼ inch on one pick; we would have 60
+threads per ¼ inch or 240 per one inch. In this case the reed may be 80 by
+3 or 60 by 4.
+
+Another instance: In an 8-shaft satin we count 10 warp-threads, which bind
+on the same pick in ¼ inch; this, multiplied by 8, equals 80 ends per ¼, or
+320 per one inch; the reed will be an 80 with 4 in a dent or a 64 by 5.
+
+In short, the number of the reed is found by dividing the number of
+warp-threads that are to go in one dent, in the number of ends per inch.
+Sometimes, the reed marks are clearly visible in a sample by holding the
+latter against the light. Silk fabrics move with very few exceptions within
+the limits of 50 and 90 dents per inch.
+
+To learn the full number of dents required for the width of the cloth,
+simply multiply the dents per one inch with the width, adding a certain
+allowance for shrinkage. The edges, of course, must also be taken in
+consideration, and very often the dents that are taken up by the latter are
+used to counter-balance that shrinkage.
+
+5. DRAWING-IN THE WARP IN HARNESS AND REED
+
+Here we must specify the number of dents that contain the same number of
+ends, and whether the latter are single or double, also the number of
+shafts and the method of drawing-in.
+
+                                                                  [Page 71]
+6. WARPING TICKET
+
+To make out the warping ticket, we need to ascertain the total number of
+ends, whether leased single or double, and the arrangement of the colors.
+
+7. HARNESS ARRANGEMENT
+
+This is governed by the number of ends to be drawn in and the necessary
+shafts. If we have, for instance, 100 threads per inch to be drawn on 4
+shafts, we must give each shaft 25 heddles per inch. There are generally
+between 25 and 45 heddles per inch on one shaft.
+
+8. REDUCTION OF THE FILLING
+
+Here we state the number of picks per inch, give directions as to doubling,
+if such is necessary, and if more than one color or shuttle is used, the
+rotation thereof.
+
+9. CALCULATION OF WARP AND FILLING
+
+The system adopted in this country for specifying the size of silk is based
+on the weight in drams (avoirdupois) of a skein containing 1000 yards. A
+skein, thus weighing 5 drams, is technically called 5-dram silk. The number
+of yards of 1-dram silk to a pound must accordingly be 256000. The formulas
+for figuring the amount of silk required for a piece of cloth are as
+follows:
+
+Warp Calculation
+
+  _Multiply_:    Number of ends×length×count
+              -----------------------------
+  _Divide by_:       1000 yards×256 drams
+
+                                                                  [Page 72]
+Filling Calculation
+
+  _Multiply:_     Picks×xply×width×length of piece×count
+                 --------------------------------------  =  lbs.
+  _Divide by:_                1000 yards×256 drams
+
+  The result in both cases will be in pounds.
+
+The system of grading the silk which is in vogue in Europe, and which is
+employed by a number of mills on this side, is as follows:
+
+     1 skein of 500 meters, weighing 0,05  grams = 1 denier international
+  or 1    "     476   "        "     0,053   "   = 1    "   Turin system
+  or 1    "     476   "        "     0,051   "   = 1    "   Milan    "
+
+The warp calculation, taking the international denier, would run:
+
+                      ends in warp×length×denier×0,05 gram
+                     --------------------------------------
+    _divided by:_          500 meters
+
+  for the filling:    Picks per meter×xply×width×denier×0,05 gram
+                     ---------------------------------------------
+    _divided by:_             500 meters
+
+  Result in metric weight, kilograms and grams.
+
+10. FINISHING
+
+Give directions as to the process of finishing to which the goods are to be
+subjected, whether to be pressed, calendered, sized, moiréd, etc.
+
+11. CALCULATION OF COST
+
+If all the foregoing conditions are ascertained, and a sample or a piece of
+the fabric executed, it remains to the manufacturer to determine the exact
+figure at which he can produce the article. That this must be done with
+great accuracy is naturally of the utmost importance, and the calculator
+                                                                  [Page 73]
+must know in the first place the raw stock prices, and also be acquainted
+with the details of the manufacturing process and the rates of wages paid
+therein. As a rule, the manufacturer establishes a scale of prices covering
+all the items of labor cost, mill expenses, etc., and uses this as a basis
+for his calculations.
+
+A rule or formula for this operation cannot very well be given, as the
+methods vary in almost every establishment, each choosing the one best
+adapted to its ideas or dictates of circumstances and conditions.
+
+                                                                  [Page 75]
+DISPOSITION 1
+
+_Taffeta glacé_
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 89]
+
+                                                                  [Page 76]
+  #Length and Width#--One piece 100 yards long, 18¾ inches wide.
+
+  #Stock and Dye#--_Warp._--Ital. Organ., 24/26 deniers = 1,47 drams,
+                            brown, bright, 14/16 oz.
+                _Filling._--Japan Tram, 28/30 deniers = 1,65 drams,
+                            gold, bright 14/16 oz.
+
+  #Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch,   70 dents at 3 single ends.
+                       " 18¾ "    1313   "
+                                add 13   "   = 1% for shrinkage
+                                  ----
+                        Total     1326 dents.
+
+  #Drawing in#--1st edge,    9 dents at 3 double ends.
+                Ground,   1308   "   at 3 single   "
+                2d edge,     9   "   at 3 double   "
+           on 6 shafts, straight through.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--1st edge,   27 double ends, brown.
+                    Ground,   3924 single   "     "
+                    2d edge,    27 double   "     "
+                              ----
+                 Total        4032 single ends.
+              Length of warp 110 yards, including 10% for take up.
+
+  #Harness#--6 shafts, 3978 heddles per 19 inches.
+             1    "      35    "     "   1    "
+
+  #Reduction of Filling#--Per inch, 100/102 picks, 2 ends.
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs  =  4032 ends.
+                      1 end  =  110 yards.
+                 1000 yards  =  1,47 drams.
+                  256 drams  =  1 lb.
+                        100  =  104 (4% waste).
+
+         4032×110×1,47×104
+        -------------------  =  2,65 lbs., or 2 lbs. 10,4 oz.
+            1000×256×100
+
+                                                                  [Page 77]
+  #Filling Calculation#--? lbs.   = 100 yards
+                         1 yard   = 36 inches.
+                         1 inch   = 102 \ picks.
+                                      2 / ends.
+                         1 pick   = 19 inches.
+                        36 inches = 1 yard
+                      1000 yards  = 1,65 drams.
+                       256 drams  = 1 lb.
+                             100  = 108 (8% waste).
+
+               100×36×102×2×19×165×108
+              ------------------------- = 2,73 lbs., or 2 lbs. 11,7 ozs.
+                    36×1000×256×100
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 79]
+DISPOSITION 2
+
+_Surah 3-1_
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 90]
+
+                                                                  [Page 80]
+  #Length and Width#--1 piece 50 yards long, 23½ in. wide.
+
+  #Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._--Ital. Organ., 1,30 drams = 20/24 deniers,
+                               black, bright, 40/50% = 22/24 ozs.
+                   _Filling._--Cotton No. 120/2 black.
+
+  #Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch,     80 dents at 2 single ends.
+                       "  23½ inch, 1880   "
+                                  add 36   "   = 2% for shrinkage.
+                                        ----
+                       Total            1916 dents.
+
+  #Drawing-in#--1st edge,  8 dents, 2 double ends.
+                Ground, 1900   "    2 single  "
+                2d edge,   8   "    2 double  "
+                on 4 shafts, straight draw.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--1st edge,  16 double ends, black.
+                    Ground,  3800 single  "      "
+                    2d edge,   16 double  "      "
+                             ----
+            Total            3864 single ends.
+               Warp 54 yards long = 8% for take up.
+
+  #Harness#--4 shafts, 3832 heddles per 24 inches.
+             1   "       40    "     "   1   "
+
+  #Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 120 picks, 1 end.
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 4264 ends.
+                       1 end = 54 yards.
+                  1000 yards = 1,30 drams.
+                   256 drams = 1 lb.
+                         100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+		 3864×54×1,30×104
+                ------------------ = 1,10 lbs., or 1 lb. 1,06 oz.
+                    1000×256×100
+
+                                                                  [Page 81]
+  #Filling Calculation#-?lbs. = 50 yards.
+                       1 yard = 36 inches.
+                       1 inch = 120 picks.
+                       1 pick = 24 inches.
+                    36 inches = 1 yard
+                    840 yards = 1 skein.
+        (No. 120/2) 60 skeins = 1 lb.
+                          100 = 110 (10% waste).
+
+                  50×36×120×24×110
+                 ------------------ = 3.14 lbs., or 3 lbs. 2.24 ozs.
+                    36×840×60×100
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 83]
+#DISPOSITION 3#
+
+_Satin Duchesse._
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 91]
+
+                                                                  [Page 84]
+  #Length and Width#--One warp 300 yards long, 10 pieces of 60 yards
+      23 inches wide, 2 pieces in width, with one cut edge.
+
+  #Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._-- Ital. Organ., 1-55/100 drams, black,
+                                bright, 20/22 oz.
+                   _Filling._-- Jap. Tram., 1-8/10 and 2-7/10
+                                drams, black, souple, 40/44 oz.
+
+    We should use for this fabric 1 end filling, 5-thread, 4-5/10 drams,
+    but as we have none of this size on hand, we take: 1 end, 2 thread,
+    1-8/10 drams, and 1 end, 3 thread, 2-7/10 drams.
+
+  #Reed Calculation#--1 inch, 66 dents, 4 single ends.
+                     46 "   3036  "
+                              54  " (1¾% shrinkage).
+                            ----
+                 Total ...  3090 dents.
+
+  #Drawing-in#--       {
+             1st edge, {   2 dents, 6×2, black.
+                       {  13   "    4×2, white.
+                Ground, 1514   "    4×1, black.
+
+		       {   2   "    6×2    "
+             Cut Edge  {   1   "    2×4,   "
+                       {   3   "    empty.
+                       {   1   "    2×4,   "
+
+                Ground, 1514   "    4×1, black.
+
+	     2d edge, {    2   "    6×2, black.
+                      {   13   "    4×2, white.
+
+      Satin on 8 shafts, straight draw.
+      Cross-thread for split edge on 3 shafts, see design.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--       Edge, {     12/2 black. }
+                                 {     52/2 white. }
+                           Ground,   6056/1 black. } twice over.
+                           Edge, {     52/2 white. }
+                                 {     12/2 black. }
+
+                           12208 ends black, { 318 yards long.
+                             416  "   white, { = 6% shrinkage.
+
+                   2/4 black for ground thread, 300 yards long.
+                   2/4   "    " whip       "    360   "     "
+                 each one on a separate little roll.
+
+                                                                  [Page 85]
+  #Harness#--8 shafts, 12368 heddles, 47 in
+             1    "       33    "      1  "
+     for the split edge 3 shafts, of which one has only half a heddle.
+
+  #Filling#--Per 1 in., 80 picks, 2 ends (as described before).
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 12224 ends, black (416 white).
+                       1 end = 318 yards.
+                 1,000 yards = 1,55 drams.
+                   256 drams = 1 lb.
+                         100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+       (416)  12224×318×1.55×104
+             -------------------- = 24,477 lbs. org. black.
+                 1000×256×100     =  0,833  "    "   white.
+
+  #Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 300 yards.
+                         1 yard = 36 inches.
+                         1 inch = 80 picks.
+                         1 pick = 47 inches.
+                      36 inches = 1 yard.
+                     1000 yards = 4,5 drams.
+                      256 drams = 1 lb.
+                            100 = 108 (8% waste).
+
+               300×36×80×47×4,5×108
+              ---------------------- = 21,414 lbs.
+                  36×1000×256×100
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 87]
+DISPOSITION 4
+
+_Armure Satinée_
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 92]
+
+                                                                  [Page 88]
+
+  #Length and Width#--One piece 60 yards long, 19 in. wide.
+
+  #Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._--Jap. Organ., 1,48 drams, black, bright,
+                               18/20 oz.
+                   _Filling._--3 threads Jap. Tram., 2,95 drams,
+                               black, bright, 24/26 oz.
+
+  #Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch,  60 dents×4 single ends.
+                       " 19   "  1140   "
+                                   32   " (3% for shrinkage).
+                                 ----
+                    Total . . .  1172 dents.
+
+  #Drawing-in#--1st edge, 12 dents × 4 double.
+                Ground, 1148   "   × 4 single.
+                2d edge,  12   "   × 4 double.
+                     on 12 shafts, straight through,
+                   or on 6 shafts, as design indicates.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--1st edge, 48/2 black.
+                    Ground, 4592/1   "
+                    2d edge,  48/2   "
+                              ------
+                 Total . . . 4784 single ends 64 yards long.
+                                        =6½% for take up.
+
+  #Harness#--6 shafts, 4688 heddles per 19½ inches.
+             1   "       40   "      "   1       "
+
+  #Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 104 picks, 2 ends.
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 4784 ends.
+                       1 end = 64 yards.
+                  1000 yards = 1,48 drams.
+                   256 drams = 1 lb.
+                         100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+           4784×64×1,48×104
+          ------------------ = 1,84 lbs., or 1 lb. 13,44 ozs.
+             1000×256×100
+
+                                                                  [Page 89]
+  #Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 60 yards.
+                         1 yard = 36 inches.
+                         1 inch = 104 } picks.
+                                    2 } ends.
+                         1 pick = 19½ inches.
+                      36 inches = 1 yard.
+                     1000 yards = 2,95 drams.
+                      256 drams = 1 lb.
+                            100 = 108 (8% waste).
+
+     60×36×104×2×19,5×2,95×108
+    --------------------------- = 3,03 lbs., or 3 lbs. 0,48 ozs.
+          36×1000×256×100
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 91]
+DISPOSITION 5
+
+_Surface Printed Armure._
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 93]
+
+                                                                  [Page 92]
+  #Length and Width#--One piece 50 yards long, 18½ in. wide.
+
+  #Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._--Ital. Organ., 1,50 drams, 24/28 deniers,
+                               white bright, pure dye.
+
+                   _Filling._--5 thread Ital. Tram., 4 drams, 13/14
+                               deniers, white, bright, pure dye.
+
+  #Reed Calculation#--Per 1    inch,  52 dents, 2×2.
+                       " 18½ "    962  "
+                                   20  "  (2% shrinkage).
+                                 ----
+                      Total . . . 982 dents.
+
+  #Drawing-in#--1st edge,   7 dents, 4×2 gros de Tours.
+                  Ground, 968   "    2×2 armure
+                 2d edge,   7   "    4×2 gros de Tours.
+        Armure ground on 12 shafts, straight draw.
+        Gros de Tours, edges on 4 shafts.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--Ground warp, 54 yards.
+                   1936/2 white.
+                    Gros de Tours edges, 55 yards.
+                   2×28/2 white, on separate rolls.
+              Total . . . 3984 single ends.
+
+  #Harness#--12 shafts, 1936 heddles, per 18½ inches.
+              1   "      8-2/3  "      "   1    "
+4 Shafts gros de Tours edges, with 28 heddles on each side.
+
+  #Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 96 picks, 1 end.
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 3984 ends.
+                      1 end  = 54  yards.
+                  1000 yards = 1,50 drams.
+                   256 drams = 1 lb.
+                         100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+           3984×54×1,50×104
+          ------------------ = 1,31 lbs., or 1 lb. 4,96 ozs.
+             1000×256×100
+
+                                                                  [Page 93]
+  #Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 50 yards.
+                         1 yard = 36 inches.
+                         1 inch = 96 picks.
+                         1 pick = 19 inches.
+                      36 inches = 1 yard.
+                     1000 yards = 4 drams.
+                      256 drams = 1 lb.
+                            100 = 108 (8% waste).
+
+             50×36×96×19×4×108
+            ------------------- = 1,54 lbs., or 1 lb. 8,64 ozs.
+              36×1000×256×100
+
+After weaving, the small flower effects have to be printed on the cloth.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 95]
+DISPOSITION 6
+
+_Pekin_: 8 shaft satin and repp.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 34]
+
+                                                                  [Page 96]
+  #Length and Width#--1 piece 100 yards long, 20¼ in. wide.
+
+                              { Ital. Organ., 1-35/100 drams, black,
+                              {   bright, 20/22 oz.
+  #Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._ { Ital. Organ., 1-15/100 drams, sky,
+                              {   bright, pure dye
+                              { Cotton No. 100/2, scarlet.
+
+                   _Filling._--3 threads, Jap. Tram., 2-8/10 drams,
+                               scarlet, bright, 14/16 oz.
+
+                                            {6×1, black satin
+  #Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch, 68 dents, {6×2, colored "
+                                            {2×1,    "    repp.
+                       " 20¼  " 1377  "
+                                  23  " (1½% for shrinkage).
+                                ----
+                       Total    1400 dents.
+
+  #Drawing-in#--1st edge,  7 dents, 6×2 satin.         }
+                  Ground, 34   "    6×1   "            }
+                           2   "    6×2   "            }
+                          10   "    6×1   "    } twice }
+                           2   "    2×1 repp.  } over. }
+                          10   "    6×1 satin.         }
+                           2   "    6×2   "            }
+                          39   "    6×1   "            }
+                           5   "    2×1 repp.  } twice }
+                           4   "    6×1 satin. } over. } 7 times
+                           5   "    2×1 repp.          } over.
+                          15   "    6×1 satin.         }
+                           2   "    2×1 repp.          }
+                          15   "    6×1 satin.         }
+                           5   "    2×1 repp.  } twice }
+                           4   "    6×1 satin. } over. }
+                           5   "    2×1 repp.          }
+                           5   "    6×1 satin.         }
+                          28   "    6×1   "            }
+                 2d edge,  7   "    6×2   "            }
+                 Satin on 1st section of 8 shaft skip draw.
+                 Binder " 2nd    "     " 2   "
+                 Repp   " 3d     "     " 2   "
+
+                                                                  [Page 97]
+On each side of every repp stripe two ends of the satin warp must be
+entered on the 2 binder shafts (2d section), to prevent the ends of the
+satin to slide over into the repp stripes.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--I. _Beam satin_, 106 yards.
+    1st edge, 42/2 black.
+         Ground, 204/1  "     }
+                  12/2 sky.   }
+                 180/1 black. }
+                  12/2 sky.   }
+                 234/1 black. }
+                  48/2 sky.   } 7 times over.
+                 180/1 black. }
+                  48/2 sky.   }
+                  30/1 black. }
+                 168/1  "     }
+         2d edge, 42/2  "     }
+
+        6132 single ends black.
+        1680   "     "   sky.
+
+         II. _Beam repp_, 110 yards.
+                   4/1 scarlet. }
+                   4/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     } 7 times over.
+                   4/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     }
+
+            504 single ends scarlet cotton
+
+This warp has to be beamed in stripes. Make out a diagram for the warper
+the same as shown in Fig. 95.
+
+                                                                  [Page 98]
+[Illustration: Fig. 95]
+
+#Harness#--Fig. 95 shows how to make a diagram of a harness for a Pekin.
+The heddles are marked per one shaft. As the repp stripes are only small
+ones, we use for the satin a full harness, that is, one without open spaces
+for the repp stripe. All together we have in the satin warp 6888 single and
+double ends to draw in; of these 252 ends are used for binders, on both
+sides of the repp stripes. Thus remain for
+
+    8 shafts, 6636 heddles per 20½ inches
+    1   "       40    "     "   1    "
+
+  #Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 144 picks, 1 end.
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 6132 ends (1680 ends sky).
+                       1 end = 106 yards.
+                  1000 yards = 1,35 drams (sky 1,15 drams).
+                   256 drams = 1 lb.
+                         100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+  6132×106×1,35×104
+ ------------------- = 3,56 lbs. for black, or 3 lbs. 8,96 ozs.
+     1000×256×100
+
+  1680×106×1,15×104
+ ------------------- = 0,83 lbs. for sky, or 0 lbs. 13,28 ozs.
+      1000×256×100
+
+                                                                  [Page 99]
+
+                         ? lbs. = 504 ends.
+                          1 end = 110 yards.
+                      840 yards = 1 skein.
+          (No. 100/2) 50 skeins = 1 lb.
+                            100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+    504×110×104
+   ------------- = 1,37 lbs. scarlet cotton, or 1 lb. 5,92 ozs.
+    840×50×100
+
+  #Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 100 yards.
+                         1 yard = 36 inches.
+                         1 inch = 144 picks.
+                         1 pick = 21 inches.
+                      36 inches = 1 yard.
+                     1000 yards = 2,8 drams.
+                      256 drams = 1 lb.
+                            100 = 108 (8% waste).
+
+   100×36×144×21×2,8×108
+  ----------------------- = 3,57 lbs., or 3 lbs. 9,12 ozs.
+     36×1000×256×100
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                 [Page 100]
+JACQUARD WEAVES
+
+Jacquard weaves usually show on a plain ground figure or flower effects. To
+obtain these effects the ground is made of one weave, say taffeta, while
+the figures or flowers are produced in another weave, say satin.
+
+We enter the warp through a jacquard harness, and according to the repeat
+use a 200, 400, 600, 900, 1200, etc., hook jacquard machine, which means
+200, 400, 600, 900 and 1200 ends per repeat.
+
+With a 600-hook machine a larger repeat can be produced than with a
+499-hook machine. For instance, if we want to make a cloth the figures of
+which are to be two inches apart, it is a two-inch repeat, and use the
+count of 50/4 or 200 ends per inch, we can use a 400-hook machine, 2 in. x
+200 ends. But we can make this cloth also on a 1200-hook machine, only the
+repeat must be designed three times. The advantage of using a 1200-hook
+machine with the count 50/4 is that 2, 3, 4, 6-inch repeats can be
+produced, while with a 400-hook machine, only a 2-inch repeat can be made.
+
+There is no end to all the different weaves and the possible flower and
+other pattern effects that can be made with the jacquard machine. For a
+jacquard weaving plant the designing is the most important factor.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BOX LOOM WEAVES INCLUDING CREPES
+
+Box looms are required for weaves such as bayadères, checks, plaids (see
+pages 63-65), bengalines, crêpes, etc., where two or more shuttles are
+needed to bring out the effect.
+
+For the crêpes (crêpe de chine, crêpe georgette) only two shuttles are
+needed, while plaids and other articles are made with more shuttles.
+
+To weave such articles the loom or the lay must be fitted with two or more
+shuttle boxes on one or both sides of the loom.
+
+                                                                 [Page 101]
+If a manufacturer decides to change plain looms to box looms or buy new box
+looms, it is wise to get 4 × 4 boxes, or four shuttle boxes on each side.
+
+With these looms about everything can be made that is called for in
+box-loom effects, and as styles change, it is wise to be prepared.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MANUFACTURING COSTS
+
+The calculator first ascertains for the warp: What silk will be used, the
+cost of the same, total number of ends in the warps for the amount of silk,
+cost of throwing, dyeing, winding, warping, twisting, entering, and
+weaving.
+
+Then the filling: Silk to be used, how much, cost of silk, cost of
+throwing, dyeing, winding, doubling, quilling.
+
+After this determine the cost of weaving, cloth picking, finishing, factory
+costs, and selling expenses.
+
+To-day most of the operations are paid by "piece work."
+
+The calculator must always take into consideration that poor raw silk or
+poor dyeing make production slow, increase the cost of labor, and also that
+more waste will be made.
+
+THROWING: Regular organ usually has 16 turns per inch in the first twist
+and 14 turns to the inch in the second or reverse twist. Tram receives only
+one twisting, about three turns to the inch.
+
+As the warp twisting-in is paid for at so much per hundred or thousand
+ends, no matter how short or long the warp is, it is a saving to make the
+warps as long as possible, especially in raw, black and staple colors.
+
+The calculator must not forget the cost of entering the first warp in a
+harness, also the reeding.
+
+Most mills figure the cost of harness and reed in the expense accounts. If
+plain and fancy goods are made an extra percentage should be figured for
+the latter.
+
+                                                                 [Page 102]
+EXPENSES are figured differently, as almost every manufacturer has his own
+system. If a mill makes only a few staple articles it is easy to put down
+the cost of expenses. Say the mill has a production of 500,000 yards per
+year, that the expense amounts to $35,000, the cost then is 7 cents per
+yard.
+
+Manufacturers making all kinds of goods sometimes figure the expenses in
+percentage, say, for plain goods, with a few picks, like gros-grain, peau
+de soie, etc., 10 per cent. per yard. Taffeta, satin, etc., having more
+picks, 12½ per cent. per yard, and fancy and jacquard goods, 15 per cent.
+per yard. In the expense account we include all charges except raw silk,
+throwing, dyeing and piece work.
+
+SELLING EXPENSES. Before a calculation is finished we must add the selling
+expenses to the cost, also take account of the trade discount. Small mills
+usually sell through a commission house, which pays all expenses and
+charges a certain commission. Many large firms have their own selling end,
+and some have their sales guaranteed by a commission house or a bank.
+
+                                                                 [Page 103]
+CALCULATIONS
+
+The prices marked in the following calculations are about as in "normal
+times." Absolutely correct piece work prices cannot be given as different
+localities have different prices.
+
+Calculations are usually made per 100 yards, 100-meter warps.
+
+Most goods gain from 3 to 7 per cent. in weaving. That is, if we make a
+warp of 300 meters for a satin and we obtain 315 yards of cloth, this gain
+should not be calculated, as usually there is no account taken of samples
+used in the selling department. But the loss in length should be figured
+and taken account of on goods with a heavy rib, such as moiré, faille, etc.
+
+DISP. 7--A 3 1/3-inch repeat can be obtained with a 600-hook jacquard
+machine, seven repeats in a width of 23 inches.
+
+DISP. 8--Taffeta weave, but the two cotton picks must go in one hole. This
+article can only be made with at least two shuttle boxes on each side. For
+warping use a single and double cross reed, heavy cotton, no knots must be
+tied.
+
+DISP. 10--This article must be warped with as much tension as possible and
+no knots should be tied in. Silk is to be delivered on bobbins from
+throwster.
+
+CANTON CREPE
+
+DISP. 9--Can also be made with Canton silk for filling and may be called
+Canton crêpe. As Canton silk is much cheaper than Japan, the manufacturer
+can use 4-thread Canton instead of 3-thread Japan for filling at a little
+difference in cost, thus the cloth will be heavier, but Canton silk is not
+as even and clean as Japan.
+
+                                                                 [Page 104]
+  Article--TAFFETA GLACE Reed 70/3
+  Disp. 1    Width 18¾ in.
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Class 12/14               $5.00 raw silk
+                                                .60 throwing
+          2-Thread Organ. brown bright          .45 dyeing
+          16-oz.                                .15 winding
+                                               -----
+          raw lbs. 2.60                       $6.20               $16.23
+    Warping--4032 at 3¢.                                            1.21
+    Twisting--3978 at 25¢. per 300 meters                            .33
+    Filling--Jap. Tram. Best No. 1 13/15      $4.25 raw silk
+                                                .45 throwing
+             2/2 ends 104 picks                 .45 dyeing
+                                                .15 winding
+             gold bright 16 oz.                 .15 doubling
+                                                .10 quilling
+                                              -----
+             raw lbs. 2.73                    $5.55                15.02
+    Weaving                                                         7.00
+    Picking                                                         1.00
+    Finishing                                                       1.00
+    Expenses                                                        7.00
+                                                                  ------
+                                                                  $48.79
+                                              5% trade discount
+                                              7½% selling commission
+                                              Divide by 87½
+                                              Cost per yard = $0.5576
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+   Article--SURAH 3-1  Reed 80/2
+   Disp. 2       Width 36 in.
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Class. 10/12              $5.20
+                                                .65
+          2-Thread Organ. bright black          .81 discount 15%
+          24 oz.                                .30 dyed 20%
+                                              -----
+          lbs. 3.36                           $6.96               $23.39
+    Warping--5904 at 2¾¢.                                        1.62
+    Twisting--5872 at 35¢.--600 lb. warp                             .25
+    Filling--cotton 120/1                     $1.25
+                                                .10 dye
+         black 1 end 120 picks                  .08 winding
+                                                .07 quilling
+                                              -----
+                lbs. 9.50                     $1.50                14.25
+    Weaving                                                        12.00
+    Picking                                                         1.50
+    Finishing                                                       2.00
+    Expenses                                                        7.00
+                                                                   -----
+                                                                  $62.01
+                                             5% discount
+                                             6% commission
+                                             Divide by 89
+                                             Cost per yard = $0.6967
+
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+								 [Page 105]
+  Article--SATIN DUCHESSE Reed 66/4
+  Disp. 3        Width 2 x 23 in.
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14          $5.00
+                                            .60
+          2-Thread Organ. black bright      .73
+          22 oz.                            .21
+                                          -----
+          lbs. 8.50                       $6.54            $55.59
+    Warping--12624 at 2¾¢.                                   3.47
+    Twisting--12256 at 25¢.  600 meters                       .51
+    Filling--Jap. Tram No. 1--14/16       $4.00
+                                            .40
+      black souple 44 oz.                  1.60 net
+                                            .40
+    1/2 and 1/3 = 1/5  80 picks             .40 doubling
+                                            .30
+                                          -----
+      lbs. 7.14                           $7.10             50.69
+    Weaving                                                 13.00
+    Picking                                                  2.00
+    Finishing                                                2.50
+    Expenses                                                 8.00
+                                                          -------
+                                                          $135.76
+                                          Divide by 89
+                                          Cost per yard = $0.7627
+
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+  Article--ARMURE SATIN  Reed 60/4
+  Disp. 4      Width 26 in.
+  STOCK AND DYE
+    Warp--Jap. Ex. 12/14                  $4.75
+                                            .60
+      2-Thread Organ. black bright          .64
+      20 oz.                                .19
+                                          -----
+      lbs. 4.30                           $6.18            $26.57
+  Warping--6520 at 2¾¢.                                      1.79
+    Twisting--6424 at 25¢.  600 meters                        .27
+    Filling--Jap. Tram No. 1  16/18       $4.00
+                                            .30
+      black bright 26 oz.                   .94
+                                            .25
+      2/3 ends 104 picks                    .25
+                                            .17
+                                          -----
+      lbs. 6.80                           $5.91             40.19
+    Weaving                                                 10.00
+    Picking                                                  1.00
+    Finishing                                                1.00
+    Expenses                                                 7.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $87.82
+                                          Divide by 89
+                                          Cost per yard = $0.9867
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                 [Page 106]
+  Article--PRINTED ARMURE  Reed 52/2/2
+  Disp. 5      Width 18½ in.
+  STOCK AND DYE
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14          $5.00
+          2-Thread Organ. white bright      .60
+          P.D.                              .23
+                                            .12
+                                          -----
+          lbs. 2.62                       $5.95       $15.59
+    Warping--3984/1 at 3¢.                              1.20
+    Twisting--1992/2 at 30¢.  300 meters                 .20
+    Filling--Ital. Tram. souple 13/14     $4.50
+                                            .30
+      white bright P.D.                     .23
+                                            .10
+      1/5 end 96 picks                      .07
+                                          -----
+      lbs. 3.08                           $5.20        16.02
+    Weaving                                             8.00
+    Picking                                             1.00
+    Finishing and Printing                              5.00
+    Expenses                                            8.00
+                                                      ------
+                                                      $55.01
+                                Divide by 87½
+                                Cost per yard = $0.6287
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                 [Page 107]
+  Article--SATIN STRIPED REPS  Reed 60/62
+  Disp. 6     Width 20¼ in.
+  STOCK AND DYE
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Organ. 24/26           $5.00
+          black bright 22 oz.                .60
+                                             .73
+                                             .21
+                                           -----
+          lbs. 3.56                        $6.54           $23.28
+          Ital. Ex. Organ. 18/20           $5.20
+                                             .65
+          sky bright P.D.                    .23
+                                             .12
+                                           -----
+          lbs. .83                         $6.20             5.15
+          Cotton 100/2                     $1.00
+                                             .12
+                                             .08
+                                           -----
+          scarlet lbs. 1.37                $1.20             1.64
+    Warping--8316 at 4¢.                                     3.32
+    Twisting--7434 at 50¢.  300 meters                       1.24
+    Filling--Jap. tram. No. 1 14/16        $4.00
+                                             .35
+       scarlet bright 16 oz. 1/3 ends        .45
+                                             .15
+       144 picks.   lbs. 3.57                .10
+                                           -----
+                                           $5.05            18.04
+    Weaving                                                 12.00
+    Picking                                                  1.00
+    Finishing                                                1.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $66.67
+    Expenses 15%                                            10.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $76.67
+                                           Divide by 87½
+                                           Cost per yard = $0.8763
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                 [Page 108]
+  Article--MESSALINE BROCADE Reed 60/3
+  Disp. 7       Width 23 in.
+    Warp--Jap. Ex. 13/15                $4.50
+                                          .60
+          2-Thread navy bright 16 oz.     .45
+                                          .15
+                                         ----
+          lbs. 3.20                     $5.70              $18.24
+    Warping--4320 at 3¢.                                     1.30
+    Twisting--4260 at 30¢.  300 meters                        .41
+    Filling--Jap. Tram No. 1 13/15      $4.00
+                                          .35
+     emerald ex. bright dye 24 oz.        .95
+                                          .25
+     1/3 ends  100 picks                  .15
+                                        -----
+     lbs. 2.50                          $5.70               14.25
+    Weaving                                                  9.00
+    Picking                                                  1.00
+    Finishing                                                1.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $45.20
+    Expenses 15%                                             6.78
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $51.98
+                                        Divide by 87½
+                                        Cost per yard = $0.5941
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+  Article--BENGALINE Reed 72/2 by 1 single; 1 double
+  Disp. 8       Width 36 in.
+    Warp--Jap. ex. 13/15                $4.50
+                                          .60
+          2-Thread Organ. black bright    .64
+          20 oz.                          .19
+                                        -----
+          lbs. 5.77                     $5.93              $34.22
+    Warping--7964 at 2¾¢.                                    2.19
+    Twisting--5296 at 30¢.  600 meters                        .27
+    Filling--56 picks by                $4.50
+             5 organ. 2 Cotton            .60
+                                          .64
+                                          .19     .45
+                                          .12     .10
+                                        -----
+             40 picks Organ. as warp    $6.05     .08        6.05
+             lbs. 1                               .07
+             16 picks black cotton 15/4         -----
+             lbs. 22.50                         $ .70       15.75
+
+    Weaving                                                 12.00
+    Picking                                                  1.50
+    Finishing                                                3.00
+    Expenses                                                 8.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $82.98
+                                        Divide by 91
+                                        Cost per yard = $0.9119
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                 [Page 109]
+  Article--CREPE DE CHINE (Taffeta weave)  Reed 60/2/2
+  Disp. 9        Width 40 in.
+                 44½ in. in reed
+    Warp--Jap. Ex. Grege 20/22            $4.50
+                                            .05 winding
+                                          -----
+          2% waste lbs. 5.60              $4.55            $25.48
+    Warping--5340/2 at 2½¢.                                  2.67
+    Twisting--5340/2 at 25¢.  600 meters                      .23
+    Filling--Jap. No. 1 13/15
+          4 ends hard twist 60 turns      $4.00
+                                           1.25 throwing
+          84 picks by 2 right, 2 left      0.05 quilling
+            twist                         -----
+          25% waste and shrinkage         $5.30
+            lbs. 6.00                                       31.80
+    Weaving                                                  9.00
+    Finishing and dyeing                                     5.00
+    Picking                                                  1.00
+    Expenses                                                 7.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $82.18
+                                          5% discount
+                                          5% selling expense
+                                          Divide by 90
+                                          Cost per yard = $0.9131
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+  Article--CREPE GEORGETTE  Reed 50/2
+           (Taffeta weave) by 1 right, 1 left twist
+  Disp. 10  Width 40 in.  47 in. in reed
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Class 16/18 Raw       $5.20
+                                           1.60
+                                          -----
+      2-Thread hardtwist 75 turns         $6.80            $36.72
+    30% shrinkage and waste lbs. 5.40
+    Warping--4640/1  30/2  4760 at 4¢.                       1.90
+    Twisting--4700 at 50¢. 600 meters                         .40
+    Filling--Same silk as warp
+             100 picks by 2 right, 2 left
+             twist                        $5.20
+                                           1.60
+                                            .10
+                                           ----
+             lbs. 5.00                    $6.90             34.50
+    Weaving                                                 15.00
+    Picking                                                  1.00
+    Finishing and dyeing                                     6.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $95.52
+    Expenses 12½%                                           11.94
+                                                          -------
+                                                          $107.46
+                                          Divide by 87½
+                                          Cost per yard = $1.2281
+
+                                                                 [Page 110]
+CALCULATION BLANK
+
+  ARTICLE_____________________________________REED_____________________
+
+  DISP________________________________________WIDTH____________________
+
+  WARP_________________________________________________________________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  --------------------------------------------|---|---|---|---|--------
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  --------------------------------------------|---|---|---|---|--------
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  --------------------------------------------|---|---|---|---|--------
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  WARPING_____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  TWISTING____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  FILLING_____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  ____________________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  WEAVING_____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  PICKING_____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  FINISHING___________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  EXPENSES____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+
+
+                            PRICE PER YARD
+
+                                                                 [Page 111]
+INDEX
+
+  DRAWING-IN, 7
+    Straight Draws, 7
+    Skip Draws, 9
+    Point Draws, 9
+    Section Draws, 10
+  THE WEAVES AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION, 15
+    The Taffeta Weave, 17
+    Gros de Tours Weaves, 19
+    Serge Weaves, 20
+    Twill Weaves, 20
+  FILLING EFFECTS 21
+    Satin de Lyon, 21
+    Levantine, 21
+    Polonaise, 22
+    Serge grosse coté, 22
+    Serge Romaine, 23
+    Serge, 23
+  WARP EFFECTS, 25
+    Levantine, 25
+  EVENSIDED TWILLS, 26
+    Surah, 26
+    Croise, 26
+  POINTED TWILLS, 27
+  SATIN WEAVES, 32
+    Satine de Chine, 34
+    Satin Merveilleux, 34
+    7 Harness Satin, 35
+    Duchesse, 35
+  IRREGULAR SATINS, 39
+    Satin Ture, 39
+    Satin à la Reine, 40
+  DERIVATIVE WEAVES, 41
+    From the Taffeta, 41
+    From the Twills, 43
+    From the Satin Weave, 46
+    Cannele and Repp Weaves, 49
+  DOUBLE FACED FABRICS, 55
+    Warp Effects, 55
+  FILLING EFFECTS, 58
+    Pekins, 60
+    Bayadères, 63
+                                                                 [Page 112]
+    Checks and Plaids, 65
+  DECOMPOSITION, 67
+    The Weave, 68
+    Length and Width of the Fabric, 68
+    The Stock and Its Dye, 69
+    Reed Calculation, 70
+    Drawing-in the Warp in Harness and Reed, 70
+    Warping Ticket, 71
+    Harness Arrangement, 71
+    Reduction of the Filling, 71
+    Calculation of Warp and Filling, 71
+    Finishing, 72
+    Calculation of Cost, 72
+  DISPOSITIONS, 75
+  JACQUARD WEAVES, 100
+    Box Loom Weaves Including Crêpes, 100
+    Manufacturing Costs, 101
+  CALCULATIONS, 103
+    Calculation Blank, 110
+
+                                                                 [Page 113]
+OTHER BOOKS
+
+Published by
+
+CLIFFORD & LAWTON 373 Fourth Avenue New York.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE AMERICAN SILK JOURNAL
+
+Established 1882. A monthly magazine devoted exclusively to dress silks,
+ribbons, and all silken materials, reflecting the progress of mill and
+market, fashions, trade events and news. Published on the first of each
+month.
+
+Subscription: United States, $3; Canada, $3.50; Foreign, $4 a year.
+
+SERIVALOR or the True Value of Raw Silk
+
+By ADOLF ROSENZWEIG,
+
+The great international authority on silk. A practical and logical system
+of standardizing raw silks. Price, $4.25 postpaid.
+
+DICTIONARY OF SILK TERMS
+
+The most complete and authentic dictionary ever published on silk terms,
+from the raw silk to the finished broad and narrow silks, including weaves,
+styles, patterns, effects, colors, trade-marks, etc. Bound in cloth, 93
+pages, price, $1.50 postpaid.
+
+COLOR VALUE
+
+By C.R. CLIFFORD.
+
+A valuable book treating on color contrasts and harmonies. It will assist
+the manufacturer, styler, designer and retailer in the selection of colors.
+Colored plates and diagrams illustrating the fundamental principles of the
+subject, of inestimable value to either student or artisan. Price, $1.50
+postpaid.
+
+PERIOD FURNISHINGS
+
+By C.R. CLIFFORD
+
+An encyclopedia of furnishings, decorations, furniture. Contains 2,731
+illustrations, 266 pages, size 9¼ x 12; 112 fabric illustrations, covering
+all periods. Price, $6.00 postpaid.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Theory Of Silk Weaving, by Arnold Wolfensberger
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14600 ***
diff --git a/14600-h/14600-h.htm b/14600-h/14600-h.htm
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+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
+<head>
+  <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" />
+
+<title>
+      Theory of Silk Weaving
+    </title>
+
+    <style type="text/css">
+
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+<body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14600 ***</div>
+
+<!-- Page 1 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1"></a>[pg 1]</span>
+
+  <p class="c">THEORY OF SILK WEAVING</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 2 Blank -->
+
+<!-- Page 3 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3"></a>[pg 3]</span>
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal; line-height:1.75em;">
+<span style="font-size:100%;">THEORY</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">OF</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:150%;">SILK WEAVING</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  A Treatise on the Construction and</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  Application of Weaves, and the</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  Decomposition and Calculation of</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  Broad and Narrow, Plain,</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  Novelty and Jacquard Silk Fabrics</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  Containing 95 Plates</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:80%;">
+  <i>By</i> ARNOLD WOLFENSBERGER</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  Graduate of the Textile Institute of Zurich,</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  Switzerland</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p class="c">Second Revised and Enlarged Edition</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  NEW YORK</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  <i>Issued by</i> THE AMERICAN SILK JOURNAL</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  CLIFFORD &amp; LAWTON</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  <i>Publishers</i></span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  1921</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+<!-- Page 4 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4"></a>[pg 4]</span>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p class="c">COPYRIGHT. 1921. by CLIFFORD &amp; LAWTON</p>
+
+  <p class="c"><i>All rights reserved</i></p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p class="c">GROLIER CRAFT PRESS, Printers. 229 West Twenty-eighth Street, New York
+  City</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 5 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5"></a>[pg 5]</span>
+
+<h3>PREFACE</h3>
+
+  <p>The silk industry of America has of late years rapidly advanced to the
+  front rank among the great textile industries of the world. It may indeed
+  be proud of this position, to which that enterprising spirit and untiring
+  energy peculiar to our nation, combined with our great technical and
+  natural resources, has brought it.</p>
+
+  <p>That we are, on the other hand, not yet at the height of perfection we
+  are also compelled to acknowledge, but if we consider the short space of
+  time that the American industry has required for its development, as
+  compared to the decades, almost centuries, to which some of the great
+  European silk centers can look back, the fact is neither surprising nor
+  discouraging.</p>
+
+  <p>While it must not be our aim to imitate or copy their ways, inasmuch
+  as out conditions and circumstances are quite different from theirs, we
+  may still profitably study their methods in order to overcome our
+  deficiencies.</p>
+
+  <p>The greatest advantage which our competitors derive from such a long
+  existence consists in having at their disposal a force of skilful,
+  trained help. The manufacturers, appreciating the importance of this
+  factor, make great efforts and pecuniary sacrifices to elevate and
+  maintain the high standard of their industry.</p>
+
+  <p>For instance, they support textile schools and lecture courses, where
+  young men can acquire a thorough technical education and equip themselves
+  for a career of usefulness, thereby serving their own interests and at
+  the same time furthering those of their chosen profession.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 6 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6"></a>[pg 6]</span>
+
+  <p>This beneficial influence cannot fail to exert itself from the
+  standard of the higher employer down to that of the weaver, who would
+  naturally take more pains and interest in his work than if he were a mere
+  mechanical appendage to his loom in order to keep it in motion.</p>
+
+  <p>Very little has been done in his country for technical education as
+  far as the silk industry is concerned, and it was on this special branch,
+  that prompted the author to offer in the present little work a treatise
+  on the theory of shaft weaving for broad silks and ribbons.</p>
+
+  <p>It is divided into three principal parts:</p>
+
+      <p class="i8"><b>1st. Drawing-in the warp in the harness.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>2nd. The weaves and their application.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>3rd. Decomposition or analysis of the cloth.</b></p>
+
+  <p>To the foregoing there have been added in the revised and enlarged
+  edition several additional parts covering the following: JACQUARD WEAVES,
+  BOX LOOM WEAVES, including CREPES, and COST CALCULATIONS for plain and
+  fancy weaves.</p>
+
+  <p>The subject while condensed, is made as clear and comprehensible as
+  possible, and to many desirous of increasing their knowledge in this
+  direction, this should prove a valuable help.</p>
+
+  <p>The author, through the medium of this work, hopes to win the approval
+  and encouragement of the manufacturers, and will feel amply repaid should
+  his efforts tend to develop a deeper interest in the "Queen of
+  Textiles."</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 7 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7"></a>[pg 7]</span>
+
+<h2>THEORY OF SILK WEAVING</h2>
+
+<h3>DRAWING-IN</h3>
+
+  <p>With this term we designate the operation preceding the weaving, by
+  which all the warp-threads are drawn through the heddles of the
+  harness.</p>
+
+  <p>The order in which this is done varies according to the weave and the
+  nature of the fabric to be produced; so we distinguish:</p>
+
+      <p class="i8"><b>Straight draws,</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>Skip draws,</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>Point draws,</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>Section draws.</b></p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>STRAIGHT DRAWS</h3>
+
+<a name="Fig_1"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig1.png"
+alt="Fig. 1" /><br />Fig. 1
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 8 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8"></a>[pg 8]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_2"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig2.png"
+alt="Fig. 2" /><br />Fig. 2
+  </div>
+  <p>These form the simplest and most common method of drawing-in. We begin
+  with the first heddle on the left side of the shaft <i>nearest to the
+  warp-beam</i>, then take the first heddle of second shaft and so on until
+  all the shafts the set contains are used in rotation. This completes one
+  "draw," and this operation is repeated until all the warp-threads are
+  taken up.</p>
+
+  <p>The method of making the shaft nearest to the warp-beam the first, is
+  almost universal with the silk business and is technically called
+  <i>drawing-in from back to front</i>.</p>
+
+  <p>The opposite, or drawing in from <i>front to rear</i>, is used
+  occasionally, however, and in this case makes the first heddle on the
+  left hand side of the front shaft No. 1.</p>
+
+  <p>The making out of the <i>Drawing-in Draft</i>, which must indicate the
+  arrangement or the rotation in which the warp-threads are drawn in, can
+  be done in various ways, of which we will mention the two most popular
+  methods. The first is by using common designing paper, and indicating the
+  rotation by dots. The horizonal rows of squares represent the shafts, the
+  vertical rows the warp-threads. Fig. <a href="#Fig_1">1</a> shows four
+  repeats of a straight draw on six harness marked out according to this
+  idea. A second method is to use paper ruled horizontally, the lines
+  representing the shafts; and to draw vertical lines
+<!-- Page 9 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9"></a>[pg 9]</span>
+  for the warp-threads.
+  The latter are made to stop on the lines bearing the number of the shafts
+  into which the respective threads are to be drawn. Fig. <a
+  href="#Fig_2">2</a> is such a draft, illustrating six repeats of a draw
+  on four harness from "Front to Rear."</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>SKIP DRAWS</h3>
+
+<div class="c">
+<table><tr><td class="b">
+<a name="Fig_3"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig3.png"
+alt="Fig. 3" /><br />Fig. 3
+  </div>
+
+</td><td>
+
+<a name="Fig_4"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig4.png"
+alt="Fig. 4" /><br />Fig. 4
+  </div>
+</td></tr></table>
+</div>
+
+  <p>The draws coming under this heading are used very extensively in silk
+  weaving, especially for fabrics requiring a heavy warp and a large number
+  of shafts. Enter first the odd and then the even shafts. An 8 harness
+  draw of this kind, of which three repeats are shown in Fig. <a
+  href="#Fig_3">3</a>, runs as follows: 1, 3, 5, 7, 2, 4, 6, 8.</p>
+
+  <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_4">4</a> is a 12 harness draw of the same
+  class.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>POINT DRAWS</h3>
+
+<a name="Fig_5"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig5.png"
+alt="Fig. 5" /><br />Fig. 5
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 10 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10"></a>[pg 10]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_6"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig6.png"
+alt="Fig. 6" /><br />Fig. 6
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_7"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig7.png"
+alt="Fig. 7" /><br />Fig. 7
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_8"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig8.png"
+alt="Fig. 8" /><br />Fig. 8
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_9"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig9.png"
+alt="Fig. 9" /><br />Fig. 9
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 11 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11"></a>[pg 11]</span>
+
+  <p>Point draws are a combination of a regular straight draw from back to
+  front and one from front to back, the first and the last shafts only
+  being used once, while the rest receive two ends each in one repeat of
+  the draw. Fig. <a href="#Fig_5">5</a> illustrates a regular point draw in
+  2 repeats on 10 shafts. It will be seen that 14 ends make a repeat; in
+  fact, the number of warp-threads required for one draw will always be
+  double the number of harness less 2, hence a 12 harness regular point
+  draw will require 22 warp-threads for a repeat.</p>
+
+  <p>The drawing-in draft illustrated in Fig. <a href="#Fig_6">6</a> is a
+  slight variation of the regular point draw; it consists, as will be seen,
+  of a draw from back to front, and also a full one from front to back,
+  there by causing a <i>double point</i>.</p>
+
+  <p>Another change from the regular point draw is illustrated in Figs. <a
+  href="#Fig_7">7</a> and <a href="#Fig_8">8</a>; this class may be called
+  <i>Broken point draws</i>, because a new draw is begun before the other
+  one is complete. Fig. <a href="#Fig_9">9</a> also comes in this class and
+  represents a <i>zigzag draw</i> on 10 harness.</p>
+
+  <p>The drawing-in drafts which we have described under the head of "Point
+  draws," are used mostly to obtain the various pointed and zigzag
+  effects.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>SECTION DRAWS</h3>
+
+<a name="Fig_10"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig10.png"
+alt="Fig. 10" /><br />Fig. 10
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 12 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12"></a>[pg 12]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_11"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig11.png"
+alt="Fig. 11" /><br />Fig. 11
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_12"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig12.png"
+alt="Fig. 12" /><br />Fig. 12
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_13"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig13.png"
+alt="Fig. 13" /><br />Fig. 13
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_14"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig14.png"
+alt="Fig. 14" /><br />Fig. 14
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 13 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13"></a>[pg 13]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_15"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig15.png"
+alt="Fig. 15" /><br />Fig. 15
+  </div>
+  <p>This division of drawing-in drafts is used extensively in silk
+  manufacturing; for instance, in all fabrics having a ground warp and a
+  binder warp, also in double-face goods, or where two different weaves are
+  combined in one effect.</p>
+
+  <p>One or more threads are drawn on the first section, then one or more
+  on a second and third, if the harness is divided in so many sets.</p>
+
+  <p>The following examples will illustrate the principle of these
+  draws.</p>
+
+  <p>In Fig. <a href="#Fig_10">10</a>, shafts 1, 2, 3, 4 from the first
+  set, shafts 5 and 6 the second, 8 threads are drawn straight on the
+  first, then 2 on the second section.</p>
+
+  <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_11">11</a>, first set shafts 1 to 6 inclusive,
+  second set shafts 7 and 8.</p>
+
+  <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_12">12</a> is drawn end and end on two sections
+  having 8 shafts each.</p>
+
+  <p>Figs. <a href="#Fig_13">13</a>, <a href="#Fig_14">14</a> and <a
+  href="#Fig_15">15</a>, while not strictly belonging to the class of
+  section draws, may, however, be considered under this heading. The idea
+  is to draw a certain number of ends in one part of the harness and
+  another group in another part, be it straight, point or skip, which will
+  cause the effect on the cloth to be accordingly transposed or broken
+  up.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 14 Blank -->
+
+<!-- Page 15 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15"></a>[pg 15]</span>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>THE WEAVES
+AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION</h3>
+
+  <p>In any woven fabric we distinguish two systems of threads, the <i>Warp
+  or Chain</i>, running lengthways in the cloth, and the <i>Filling or
+  Weft</i>, crossing the former at right angles.</p>
+
+  <p>This crossing or interlacing consists of every individual warp-thread
+  being placed alternately under and over one or more threads of the
+  filling system. The arrangement of this interlacing is technically called
+  the <i>Weave</i>, and the variety in which the points of crossing can be
+  distributed is practically endless.</p>
+
+  <p>It is principally the weave that lends to a fabric its character,
+  influenced, of course, by the material used, the size and tension of the
+  threads and the combination of the colors.</p>
+
+  <p>The weaves are divided into three main classes: <i>the Foundation
+  weaves</i>. In the silk business they are known under the following
+  names:</p>
+
+      <p class="i8"><b>The Taffeta Weave,</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>The Serge Weave,</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>The Satin Weave.</b></p>
+
+  <p>In the foundation weaves each thread effects only one crossing in one
+  repeat of the weave, and the points of interlacing occur in a given
+  rotation. A repeat in the foundation weaves comprises the same number of
+  warp-threads as of
+<!-- Page 16 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16"></a>[pg 16]</span>
+  <i>picks</i> or filling threads, and if
+  this number is 8, for instance, the weave is called an 8-shaft or an
+  8-harness weave. In marking out a weave, the warp-threads are represented
+  by vertical lines, the filling by horizontal ones, or in each case by the
+  space between these lines. The places where a warp-thread lies over the
+  filling are marked with paint or simply with a cross. In a similar manner
+  we mark out the <i>chain draft</i>, which indicates the rotation in which
+  the shafts are raised.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 17 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17"></a>[pg 17]</span>
+
+<h3>THE TAFFETA WEAVE</h3>
+
+<a name="Fig_16"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig16.png"
+alt="Fig. 16" /><br />Fig. 16
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_17"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig17.png"
+alt="Fig. 17" /><br />Fig. 17
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 18 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18"></a>[pg 18]</span>
+
+  <p>This is the simplest and oldest method of interlacing. The odd numbers
+  of warp-threads cross the even numbers after every pick; hence of two
+  warp-threads one will always go over the first pick and under the second,
+  and the other end under the first and over the second pick. Taffeta
+  cloth, therefore, has the same appearance on both sides, and in cotton
+  and wool weaving this weave is technically&mdash;and properly
+  indeed&mdash;called the <i>Plain Weave</i>. It has the smallest repeat, 2
+  warp-threads and 2 picks, and the exchanging of warp and filling is the
+  most frequent possible. The cloth thus produced is firmer and stronger
+  than that obtained with any other weave.</p>
+
+  <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_16">16</a> is a taffeta on 4 shafts straight draw,
+  the draft executed in the manner which we have already mentioned in
+  explaining the drawing-in drafts.</p>
+
+  <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_17">17</a> on common designing paper, illustrates a
+  taffeta made on 8-harness, skip draw.</p>
+
+  <p>Be it mentioned that the drawing-in draft and the chain draft will be
+  added throughout this work, the former over the weave to correspond with
+  the respective warp-threads, the latter to the right of the drawing-in
+  draft.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 19 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19"></a>[pg 19]</span>
+
+<h3>GROS DE TOURS WEAVES</h3>
+
+<div class="c">
+<table><tr><td class="b">
+<a name="Fig_18"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig18.png"
+alt="Fig. 18" /><br />Fig. 18
+  </div>
+
+</td><td>
+
+<a name="Fig_19"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig19.png"
+alt="Fig. 19" /><br />Fig. 19
+  </div>
+</td></tr></table>
+</div>
+
+  <p>In this weave the working of the warp is the same as in taffeta,
+  except that instead of one pick, two or more are inserted in the same
+  shed. It is mostly used in selvedges, where it serves to give more
+  firmness to the edge of an otherwise loosely woven cloth, and prevents
+  the weaving ahead of the edge in a tight weave. Gros de Tours is
+  sometimes used, especially when cotton or wool filling is employed, with
+  a view to lay two picks nicely side by side, whereas a thread entered two
+  ply with the taffeta weave will always receive some twist, which may
+  disturb the perfect evenness of the fabric.</p>
+
+  <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_18">18</a> is a Gros de Tours with two picks on
+  four harness straight through.</p>
+
+  <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_19">19</a> illustrates this weave with three picks
+  drawn end and end on two sections of four shafts each.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 20 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20"></a>[pg 20]</span>
+
+<h3>SERGE or TWILL WEAVES</h3>
+
+  <p>While the taffeta weave produces either an entirely smooth fabric, or
+  one with a distinct transverse rib as in gros-grain, the twill weave
+  forms diagonal lines on the cloth, running either from left to right or
+  from right to left.</p>
+
+  <p>To make a twill, not less than three ends and three picks are
+  required, of which each thread floats over two of the other system and
+  interlaces with the third. The rotation of the interlacing is always
+  consecutive, that is it moves with each succeeding pick one thread to the
+  right (or to the left if the lines are to run in that direction). If warp
+  and filling have the same texture, that is the same number of threads in
+  a given space, the twill lines will form an angle of 45°; if the warp
+  stands closer than the filling, the incline will be steeper, and in the
+  opposite case the angle will approach more the horizontal.</p>
+
+  <p>The weaves can be expressed in numbers, for instance: the 3-end twill
+  warp effect would be marked 2-1, which indicates that each warp-thread
+  goes over two and under one pick.</p>
+
+  <p>Twill weaves are called <i>evensided</i> when the arrangement of "warp
+  up" and "filling up" are evenly balanced, and <i>unevensided</i> if
+  either warp or filling predominate on the face of the fabric; the latter
+  class is therefore subdivided in <i>Warp effects</i> and <i>Filling
+  effects</i>.</p>
+
+  <p>In the following a number of serge weaves are illustrated, the French
+  designations being added in some cases, as they are still extensively
+  used in the trade.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 21 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21"></a>[pg 21]</span>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>FILLING EFFECTS</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Satin de Lyon,</i> 2-1.</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 6 harness straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_20"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig20.png"
+alt="Fig. 20" /><br />Fig. 20
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Levantine,</i> 3-1</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_21"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig21.png"
+alt="Fig. 21" /><br />Fig. 21
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 22 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22"></a>[pg 22]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Polonaise,</i> 5-1</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 12 harness skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_22"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig22.png"
+alt="Fig. 22" /><br />Fig. 22
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge grosse côte,</i> 7-1</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_23"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig23.png"
+alt="Fig. 23" /><br />Fig. 23
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 23 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23"></a>[pg 23]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge remaine,</i> 6-2</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_24"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig24.png"
+alt="Fig. 24" /><br />Fig. 24
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge,</i> 5-1, 1-1.</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_25"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig25.png"
+alt="Fig. 25" /><br />Fig. 25
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 24 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24"></a>[pg 24]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge,</i> 4-2, 1-1, 1-1.</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 10 harness straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_26"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig26.png"
+alt="Fig. 26" /><br />Fig. 26
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge,</i> 7-1, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1.</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 16 shafts skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_27"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig27.png"
+alt="Fig. 27" /><br />Fig. 27
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 25 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25"></a>[pg 25]</span>
+
+<h3>WARP EFFECTS</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Levantine,</i> 3-1.</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 4 shafts straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_28"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig28.png"
+alt="Fig. 28" /><br />Fig. 28
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge,</i> 5-1, 1-1.</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_29"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig29.png"
+alt="Fig. 29" /><br />Fig. 29
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 26 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26"></a>[pg 26]</span>
+
+<h3>EVENSIDED TWILLS</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Surah,</i> 2-2</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 4 shafts straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_30"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig30.png"
+alt="Fig. 30" /><br />Fig. 30
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Croise,</i> 3-3, 2-2, 1-1.</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 12 shafts straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_31"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig31.png"
+alt="Fig. 31" /><br />Fig. 31
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 27 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27"></a>[pg 27]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge,</i> 7-7, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 20 shafts skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_32"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig32.png"
+alt="Fig. 32" /><br />Fig. 32
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<h3>POINTED TWILLS</h3>
+
+<p class="c">in the direction of the filling and also of the warp.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_33"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig33.png"
+alt="Fig. 33" /><br />Fig. 33
+  </div>
+<p class="c">On 4 shafts point draw, weave 3-1.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 28 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28"></a>[pg 28]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_34"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig34.png"
+alt="Fig. 34" /><br />Fig. 34
+  </div>
+  <blockquote>On 6 shafts point draw, drawn as follows:</blockquote>
+
+  <blockquote>Eighteen ends from back to front and 4 ends from front to
+  rear, weave 5-1.</blockquote>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_35"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig35.png"
+alt="Fig. 35" /><br />Fig. 35
+  </div>
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts pointed draw, weave 5-1, 1-1.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 29 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29"></a>[pg 29]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_36"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig36.png"
+alt="Fig. 36" /><br />Fig. 36
+  </div>
+  <p>On 10 shafts, with weave 3-3, drawn as follows:</p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>7</td><td>threads</td><td>from</td><td>back to front.</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>3</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>front to rear.</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>6</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>back to front.</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>front to rear.</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_37"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig37.png"
+alt="Fig. 37" /><br />Fig. 37
+  </div>
+<p class="c">On 6 shafts straight draw, pointed weave 5-1.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 30 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30"></a>[pg 30]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_38"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig38.png"
+alt="Fig. 38" /><br />Fig. 38
+  </div>
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts straight through, pointed weave 5-1, 1-1.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_39"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig39.png"
+alt="Fig. 39" /><br />Fig. 39
+  </div>
+<p class="c"><i>Broken pointed twill</i>, on 8 harness.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 31 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31"></a>[pg 31]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_40"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig40.png"
+alt="Fig. 40" /><br />Fig. 40
+  </div>
+<p class="c">On 6 shafts point draw, pointed weave 5-1.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_41"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig41.png"
+alt="Fig. 41" /><br />Fig. 41
+  </div>
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts point draw, pointed weave 5-1, 1-1.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 32 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32"></a>[pg 32]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_42"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig42.png"
+alt="Fig. 42" /><br />Fig. 42
+  </div>
+<p class="c"><i>Fancy twill</i>, on 16 shafts straight draw.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>SATIN WEAVES</h3>
+
+  <p>The distinct diagonal lines which characterize the class of weaves
+  explained in the previous chapter are absent in the satin weaves; and
+  while the interlacing in the former is done in a strictly consecutive
+  order, we endeavor to scatter the points of stitching in the latter as
+  much as possible, in order
+<!-- Page 33 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33"></a>[pg 33]</span>
+  to create an entirely smooth and
+  brilliant surface on the cloth.</p>
+
+  <p>In all satins the number of ends in a repeat is the same in warp and
+  filling.</p>
+
+  <p>The lowest repeat of a regular satin comprises five threads of each
+  system, and the interlacing is done in the following order:</p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>The</td><td>1st</td><td>pick</td><td>with the</td><td>1st</td><td>warp-thread</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>2d</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3d</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>3d</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>5th</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>4th</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2d</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>5th</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4th</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_43">43</a> illustrates this weave. An examination
+  of the rotation, as given above, will show that every warp-thread
+  intersects two picks apart from its neighbor. The number "2" is in this
+  case what is technically known as the <i>counter</i>, that is the number
+  which indicates the points of interlacing by adding it to number 1 and
+  continuing so until all the warp-threads are taken up.</p>
+
+  <p>The following is the rule to find the counter for any regular
+  satin:</p>
+
+  <p>Divide the number of harness into two parts, which must neither be
+  equal nor have a common divisor. Any of these two numbers can be used for
+  counting off, but usually the smaller one is taken. According to this
+  rule we obtain a regular satin</p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>On</td><td class="r">5</td><td>harness</td><td>with counter</td><td>2</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">7</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2 or 3</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">8</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">9</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2 or 4</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>10</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>11</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2, 3, 4 or 5</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>12</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>5</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>13</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2, 3, 4, 5 or 6</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>14</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3 or 5</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>15</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2, 4 or 7</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>16</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3, 5 or 7.</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 34 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34"></a>[pg 34]</span>
+
+  <p>The 4 harness broken twill, Fig. <a href="#Fig_53">53</a>, is
+  sometimes classed among the satins.</p>
+
+  <p>The 6 harness satin, Fig. <a href="#Fig_54">54</a>, is irregular; as a
+  counter cannot be derived from number 6 by the given rule. The rotation
+  generally used is 1, 3, 6, 4, 2, 5.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>Regular Satins</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>5 harness Satin, "Satin de Chine."</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Straight draw, counter 2.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_43"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig43.png"
+alt="Fig. 43" /><br />Fig. 43
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>7 harness Satin, "Satin Merveilleux."</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Skip draw, counter 2.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_44"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig44.png"
+alt="Fig. 44" /><br />Fig. 44
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 35 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35"></a>[pg 35]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>7 harness satin</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Straight draw, counter 3.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_45"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig45.png"
+alt="Fig. 45" /><br />Fig. 45
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>8 harness satin "Duchese"</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Skip draw, counter 3.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_46"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig46.png"
+alt="Fig. 46" /><br />Fig. 46
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 36 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36"></a>[pg 36]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>9 harness satin</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Straight draw, counter 4.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_47"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig47.png"
+alt="Fig. 47" /><br />Fig. 47
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>10 harness satin</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Straight draw, counter 3.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_48"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig48.png"
+alt="Fig. 48" /><br />Fig. 48
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 37 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37"></a>[pg 37]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>11 harness satin</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Skip draw, counter 5.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_49"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig49.png"
+alt="Fig. 49" /><br />Fig. 49
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>12 harness satin</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Skip draw, counter 5.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_50"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig50.png"
+alt="Fig. 50" /><br />Fig. 50
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 38 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38"></a>[pg 38]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>16 harness satin</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">On 2 sections of 8 shafts each, drawn end and end, counter 7.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_51"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig51.png"
+alt="Fig. 51" /><br />Fig. 51
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 39 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39"></a>[pg 39]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>8 harness satin, warp effect.</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Straight draw, counter 3.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_52"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig52.png"
+alt="Fig. 52" /><br />Fig. 52
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<h3>IRREGULAR SATINS</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Satin Turc.</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">On 4 shafts straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_53"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig53.png"
+alt="Fig. 53" /><br />Fig. 53
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 40 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40"></a>[pg 40]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Satin à la Reine</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">On 6 shafts straight draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_54"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig54.png"
+alt="Fig. 54" /><br />Fig. 54
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 41 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41"></a>[pg 41]</span>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>DERIVATIVE WEAVES</h3>
+
+<h4><b>1. From the Taffeta</b></h4>
+
+  <p><i>Royale</i> is a modification of the regular Gros de Tours, inasmuch
+  as the rib line, which in the latter runs straight across the cloth, is
+  broken off after a given number of warp-threads. These groups, which may
+  comprise 8, 12 or more threads, will interlace each one pick higher than
+  the preceding one.</p>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Royale of 8 ends</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">On 2 sections of 4 shafts each.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_55"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig55.png"
+alt="Fig. 55" /><br />Fig. 55
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Velours Ottoman or Faille française.</i></p>
+
+  <p>In order to obtain a broader rib than that of Gros de Tours, and at
+  the same time to lend firmness to the fabric, we add to the ground warp,
+  which forms the ribs, another
+<!-- Page 42 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42"></a>[pg 42]</span>
+  or binder warp, which works continually
+  taffeta, while the ground warp changes only every 3 or 4 picks for the
+  rib.</p>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Faille française.</i></p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>4</td><td>ends of</td><td>ground</td><td>on the</td><td>first</td><td>section of </td><td>8</td><td>shafts,</td><td>skip draw.</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>binder</td><td class="c">"</td><td>second</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<a name="Fig_56"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig56.png"
+alt="Fig. 56" /><br />Fig. 56
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Velours Ottoman without a Binder-warp.</i></p>
+
+  <p>In this weave, of which Fig. <a href="#Fig_57">57</a> illustrates a
+  specimen, comprising 8 warp-threads and 32 picks in a repeat, the rib
+  contains 4 picks. Of the 8 warp-threads, 3 float over and 3 under the
+  rib, while the 2 others bind taffeta, which latter function is executed
+  by 2 other threads in the next rib.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 43 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43"></a>[pg 43]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_57"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig57.png"
+alt="Fig. 57" /><br />Fig. 57
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<h4>2. From the Twills</h4>
+
+  <p>One variety is obtained by interlacing the warp-threads alternately
+  one or more picks behind, and then a number of picks ahead of their
+  respective neighbors; so the complete arrangement of the points of
+  binding in a repeat will generally form two parallel diagonal lines. This
+  will cause the twill lines to appear less pronounced than is the case in
+  the regular twill, and the character of the fabric approaches more that
+  of the satin.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 44 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44"></a>[pg 44]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_58"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig58.png"
+alt="Fig. 58" /><br />Fig. 58
+  </div>
+<p class="c"><i>Satin Sergé.</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts, straight draw.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_59"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig59.png"
+alt="Fig. 59" /><br />Fig. 59
+  </div>
+<p class="c"><i>Côte Satinée.</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">On 16 harness, skip draw.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p><i>Rhadzimir-Surah 2-2.</i> After a certain number of picks of the
+  regular surah all the warp-threads are crossed in two's thereby causing a
+  sort of a rib or cut line across the fabric.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 45 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45"></a>[pg 45]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Rhadzimir of 4 picks.</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts, straight draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_60"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig60.png"
+alt="Fig. 60" /><br />Fig. 60
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Rhadzimir of 6 picks.</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts, straight draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_61"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig61.png"
+alt="Fig. 61" /><br />Fig. 61
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 46 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46"></a>[pg 46]</span>
+
+<h4>3. From the Satin Weave</h4>
+
+  <p><i>Satin Soleil</i> shows a satin-like surface with a cross line
+  appearance. Fig. <a href="#Fig_62">62</a> illustrates it as made on 8
+  shafts, straight draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_62"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig62.png"
+alt="Fig. 62" /><br />Fig. 62
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p><i>Satin Grec</i> is a 12-harness satin, in which a taffeta point is
+  added to each place of interlacing, thus giving the cloth a much firmer
+  hand. Fig. <a href="#Fig_63">63</a> represents this weave on 12 shafts,
+  skip draw.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 47 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47"></a>[pg 47]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_63"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig63.png"
+alt="Fig. 63" /><br />Fig. 63
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p><i>Peau de Soie.</i> An 8-shaft satin with one point added on the
+  right or left to the original spots, giving the fabric a somewhat grainy
+  appearence. Fig. <a href="#Fig_64">64</a> represents a peau de soie on 8
+  shafts, straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_64"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig64.png"
+alt="Fig. 64" /><br />Fig. 64
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 48 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48"></a>[pg 48]</span>
+
+  <p><i>Fleur de Soie.</i> The face is a satin de Lyon (2-1 twill), with a
+  backing interlaced on the 12-shaft satin principle, Fig. <a
+  href="#Fig_65">65</a>, on 12 shafts, skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_65"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig65.png"
+alt="Fig. 65" /><br />Fig. 65
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 49 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49"></a>[pg 49]</span>
+
+<h3>CANNELE and REPP WEAVES</h3>
+
+  <p>are in their construction related to the taffeta, and are used mostly
+  in the form of stripes as an additional ornament to a fabric. The threads
+  going into the composition of these effects exchange continually from
+  taffeta interlacing to floating over a certain number of threads, and
+  must be introduced either in warp or filling close enough to make the
+  floats cover up the taffeta work entirely, and thus enable the material
+  used to show up with the full brilliancy it possesses.</p>
+
+  <p>Cannele effects can be produced in two distinct ways. One is to let
+  every individual thread work alternately taffeta and float, while in the
+  other method one thread weaves always taffeta, and a second thread is
+  used for the cannele exclusively. These latter threads must come from a
+  separate warp, which is introduced to embellish the ground or taffeta
+  part of the fabric.</p>
+
+  <p>The floating threads can either stitch all on one pick and so form a
+  continuous cut line, or be divided in groups, of which one will bind in
+  the middle of the floats of the other group. The following designs show
+  both the face and backside of the respective weaves:</p>
+
+<!-- Page 50 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50"></a>[pg 50]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Alternating Cannele</i> of 6 picks.</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 4 shafts, straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_66"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig66.png"
+alt="Fig. 66" /><br />Fig. 66
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p class="c"><i>Canelle</i> (2 beams). Over 3 picks, interlacing on every fourth
+  pick, drawn end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_67"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig67.png"
+alt="Fig. 67" /><br />Fig. 67
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 51 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51"></a>[pg 51]</span>
+
+  <p><i>Cannele</i> over 5 picks, binding on the sixth, but every second
+  thread advanced 3 picks (to the middle of the float of the first thread),
+  drawn end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_68"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig68.png"
+alt="Fig. 68" /><br />Fig. 68
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 52 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52"></a>[pg 52]</span>
+
+  <p><i>Cannele</i> arranged in groups of 8 threads, floating over 6 picks
+  and binding on the seventh and eighth, drawn on 2 sections, with 4 shafts
+  in first and 2 in second section.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_69"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig69.png"
+alt="Fig. 69" /><br />Fig. 69
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p class="c"><i>Repp</i> on 8 shafts straight through. Rotation of filling. 1 pick
+  taffeta, 1 pick float (rib).</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_70"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig70.png"
+alt="Fig. 70" /><br />Fig. 70
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 53 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53"></a>[pg 53]</span>
+
+  <p class="c"><i>Repp</i> of 8 threads, on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 ends per
+  section.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_71"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig71.png"
+alt="Fig. 71" /><br />Fig. 71
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p><i>Repp</i> of 5 threads, binding on the sixth; every second pick
+  binds on the middle of the first pick. On 6 harness straight draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_72"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig72.png"
+alt="Fig. 72" /><br />Fig. 72
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 54 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54"></a>[pg 54]</span>
+
+  <p><i>Repp</i> in groups, floating over 6 ends and binding on the seventh
+  and eighth on 8 shafts straight draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_73"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig73.png"
+alt="Fig. 73" /><br />Fig. 73
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 55 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55"></a>[pg 55]</span>
+
+<h3>DOUBLE FACED FABRICS</h3>
+
+  <p>In this class we find either two systems of warp or of filling so
+  combined that only one will be visible on either side. The color on one
+  side is generally different from the other, and so may the interlacing be
+  of a different nature on face and back. In the latter case great care
+  must be exercised not to allow the weave on one side to disturb the one
+  on the other, and as a rule the points of interlacing of the first warp
+  or filling system are placed as much as possible in the middle of the
+  floats of the second. This will prevent either color or weave to be seen
+  on the opposite side, as the floats of one side will naturally lay
+  themselves over the binders of the other. The number of ends in a repeat
+  of the two weaves must either be alike or one a multiple of the
+  other.</p>
+
+<h4>Warp Effects</h4>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Levantine</i> on 8 shafts straight draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_74"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig74.png"
+alt="Fig. 74" /><br />Fig. 74
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 56 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56"></a>[pg 56]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge</i> 6-2 on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_75"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig75.png"
+alt="Fig. 75" /><br />Fig. 75
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c">8 <i>shaft satin</i> on 2 sections of 8 harness each.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_76"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig76.png"
+alt="Fig. 76" /><br />Fig. 76
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 57 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57"></a>[pg 57]</span>
+
+<p class="c">12 <i>shaft satin</i> on 2 sections of 12 shafts each.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_77"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig77.png"
+alt="Fig. 77" /><br />Fig. 77
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Cannele</i> of 8 picks on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_78"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig78.png"
+alt="Fig. 78" /><br />Fig. 78
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 58 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58"></a>[pg 58]</span>
+
+<h3>FILLING EFFECTS</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge</i> 5-1 on 6 harness straight draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_79"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig79.png"
+alt="Fig. 79" /><br />Fig. 79
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c">10 <i>harness satin</i> on 10 shafts skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_80"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig80.png"
+alt="Fig. 80" /><br />Fig. 80
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 59 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59"></a>[pg 59]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Repp</i> on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 threads per section.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_81"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig81.png"
+alt="Fig. 81" /><br />Fig. 81
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 60 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60"></a>[pg 60]</span>
+
+<h3>PEKINS</h3>
+
+  <p>With this name we designate fabrics in which stripes of a different
+  interlacing run in the direction of the warp. In combining these weaves
+  it is advantageous to have them contrast distinctly, for instance, a
+  short weave such as taffeta or Gros de Tours, with a longer and looser
+  one such as satin, sergé or cannele, also changes from warp to filling
+  effects. Care must be taken to arrange the joining of the two weaves so
+  that the last thread of one weave will cross the first thread of the
+  other. This will prevent the threads from either stripe to slide over
+  into the other, and so make a clean cut line.</p>
+
+<p class="c"><b>Pekin.</b> A stripe of</p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td class="r">2</td><td>dents of</td><td>8</td><td>ends each,</td><td>8 shaft Satin,</td><td>on 8</td><td>shafts</td><td>straight</td><td>draw.</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>12</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Taffeta</td><td class="c">" 4</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<a name="Fig_82"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig82.png"
+alt="Fig. 82" /><br />Fig. 82
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 61 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61"></a>[pg 61]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><b>Pekin</b>. A stripe of</p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>12</td><td>ends</td><td>Cannele</td><td>of</td><td>6 picks on 1st section of 4 shafts.</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>12</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Repp</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6 threads on 2d and 3d section of 2 shafts each.</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<a name="Fig_83"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig83.png"
+alt="Fig. 83" /><br />Fig. 83
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 62 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62"></a>[pg 62]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><b>Pekin.</b> A stripe of</p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>10</td><td>ends</td><td>5 leaf Satin</td><td>on the</td><td>1st</td><td>section of</td><td>5</td><td>shafts</td><td>straight</td><td>draw.</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="r">4</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Taffeta</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3d</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>18</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Serge 3-1, 1-1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2d</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<a name="Fig_84"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig84.png"
+alt="Fig. 84" /><br />Fig. 84
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 63 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63"></a>[pg 63]</span>
+
+<h3>BAYADÈRES</h3>
+
+  <p>While pekins are formed by warp stripes, bayadère shows us stripes of
+  different weaves running in the direction of the filling. The rules given
+  in the previous chapter as to the joining of the weaves will also apply
+  here. The warp which was raised on the last pick of the weave must stay
+  down wherever possible on the first pick of the following weave. The
+  number of shafts employed must go up evenly in the repeat of each one of
+  the weaves that go into the make up of the bayadère.</p>
+
+<p class="c"><b>Bayadère</b></p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>A stripe of</td><td>24</td><td>picks</td><td>Gros de Tours</td><td class="vc" rowspan="2">&nbsp;&nbsp;} on 8 shafts straight through.</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">8</td><td class="c">"</td><td>8-shaft Satin,</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<a name="Fig_85"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig85.png"
+alt="Fig. 85" /><br />Fig. 85
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 64 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64"></a>[pg 64]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><b>Bayadère</b></p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>A stripe of</td><td>18</td><td>picks</td><td>6-shaft Satin</td><td class="vc" rowspan="3">&nbsp;&nbsp;}<br />&nbsp;&nbsp;} on 6 shafts, straight draw.<br />&nbsp;&nbsp;}</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">6</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Serge 5-1,</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">4</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Taffeta,</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<a name="Fig_86"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig86.png"
+alt="Fig. 86" /><br />Fig. 86
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 65 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65"></a>[pg 65]</span>
+
+<h3>CHECKS AND PLAIDS</h3>
+
+  <p>If pekin and bayadère stripes are combined, we obtain checked fabrics,
+  and of these an endless variety and pleasing effects can be produced with
+  the aid of suitable color combinations.</p>
+
+<p class="c"><b>Check</b></p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td class="r">of 16</td><td>threads</td><td>and</td><td>12</td><td>picks</td><td>of</td><td>the 4 end broken twill,</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="r">and 16</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>12</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Royale of 8 threads,</td></tr>
+  <tr><td colspan="7" class="c">drawn on 4 sections of 4 shafts each.</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<a name="Fig_87"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig87.png"
+alt="Fig. 87" /><br />Fig. 87
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 66 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66"></a>[pg 66]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><b>Check</b></p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>of</td><td>20</td><td>threads</td><td>and</td><td>16</td><td>picks</td><td>of</td><td>8-shaft Satin,</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>20</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>16</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Taffeta,</td></tr>
+  <tr><td colspan="4">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">4</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Surah 3-1,</td></tr>
+  <tr><td colspan="8" class="c">drawn on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<a name="Fig_88"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig88.png"
+alt="Fig. 88" /><br />Fig. 88
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 67 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67"></a>[pg 67]</span>
+
+<h3>DECOMPOSITION</h3>
+
+  <p>Under the name of <i>Disposition</i> we comprise all those points and
+  details which we must ascertain before we can proceed with the
+  construction of a fabric. They are:</p>
+
+      <p class="i8"><b>1. The weave.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>2. Length and width of the cloth.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>3. The stock and the dyeing thereof.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>4. Reed calculation</b> (number of dents and ends per inch and total number of dents required).</p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>5. Drawing-in the warp in harness and reed.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>6. Texture and arrangement of warp</b> (warping ticket)</p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>7. Arrangement of harness.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>8. Reduction of filling.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>9. Calculation of warp and filling.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>10. Finishing.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>11. Calculation of cost.</b></p>
+
+<!-- Page 68 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68"></a>[pg 68]</span>
+
+<h3>1. THE WEAVE</h3>
+
+  <p>If a given sample is to be reproduced or imitated, it must be
+  analyzed, and the following hints will greatly facilitate this operation
+  to the beginner.</p>
+
+  <p>Cut the sample straight on two sides, and draw out a number of warp
+  and filling threads until there is a small fringe of perhaps ¼ of an
+  inch. This will allow a thread to be raised a little for examination,
+  without danger of its falling out of the fabric. In most cases it is
+  easier to dissect the filling side, that is, the interlacing of each
+  warp-thread in the threads of the filling system. With the help of the
+  microscope or counting glass we can easily determine over and under how
+  many picks that thread passes and the points of interlacing are
+  accordingly marked on designing paper. This being done for at least the
+  length of a repeat warpways, we take it out and examine the following
+  thread, and so on until the repeat filling-ways is complete. It is
+  advisable to ascertain how many picks ahead or back of the first examined
+  thread the next following one binds before taking the former out.</p>
+
+  <p>A knowledge of the construction of weaves as explained in the
+  foregoing chapters will enable us to determine the weave of a simple
+  pattern by merely raising a warp-thread with a needle on any point of
+  interlacing and counting off how many picks apart from this place it
+  makes an impression.</p>
+
+<h3>2. LENGTH AND WIDTH OF THE FABRIC</h3>
+
+  <p>To the length and width which the finished product is to have, we must
+  add a certain allowance for shrinkage and <i>taking up</i> of warp during
+  weaving. It may differ from one to ten per cent., according to the
+  texture and weave of the fabric, and can be ascertained with sufficient
+  accuracy by stretching out and measuring a thread of warp and filling and
+  comparing their length with the respective measurements of the sample to
+  be reproduced.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 69 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69"></a>[pg 69]</span>
+
+<h3>3. THE STOCK AND ITS DYE</h3>
+
+  <p>Under this heading we must give the particulars as to nature,
+  <i>twist</i>, <i>quality</i> and <i>size</i> of the silk, and the
+  directions for the dyeing, whether <i>bright</i> or <i>souple</i>, and in
+  what colors, also whether to be weighted or not.</p>
+
+  <p>The size is generally ascertained (in practical work) by comparing it
+  with other silk of which the exact count is known. Another method is to
+  count the number of cocoon threads which a thread of the sample contains,
+  adding to that 1/3 or ¼, according to the quality of the silk; the result
+  will be the count in deniers. To obtain it in drams, divide the latter
+  number by 17,3 as 1 dram is equal to 17,3 deniers.</p>
+
+  <p>Suppose we find 20 cocoon ends in a thread of silk: add 1/3, and we
+  have 26-2/3 deniers, which, divided by 17,3 make 1,54 drams.</p>
+
+  <p>As silk is always more or less uneven, it is safer to count the cocoon
+  fibers of several threads and to take average thereof.</p>
+
+  <p>It requires the experience of years to judge with any degree of
+  certainty as to the origin and quality of silk, whether it be
+  "classical," "extra," "sublime," etc.</p>
+
+  <p>There are machines wherewith to ascertain exactly the twist, that is,
+  the number of turns the silk has received in the throwing process.</p>
+
+  <p>In the dyeing we distinguish two great classes, of which the names
+  themselves give a good definition. "Bright" has a brilliant luster, while
+  "souple" has more of a dull, subdued appearance. To find out whether the
+  silk has been weighted in the dyeing process, we may compare it with
+  other silk of which the exact conditions are known, or we may burn a
+  small quantity of it. Unweighted silk does not burn readily and leaves a
+  residue of white ashes, while heavy weighted silk burns lively, leaving
+  black, charry ashes.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 70 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70"></a>[pg 70]</span>
+
+<h3>4. REED CALCULATION</h3>
+
+  <p>We count the number of repeats of the weave in a given space,
+  generally ¼ or ½ inch, and multiply this with the number of threads one
+  repeat contains, which gives us the reduction of the warp.</p>
+
+  <p>Suppose we had a taffeta, which, as we know, has only 2 ends to a
+  repeat, and counted 30 interlacings per ¼ inch on one pick; we would have
+  60 threads per ¼ inch or 240 per one inch. In this case the reed may be
+  80 by 3 or 60 by 4.</p>
+
+  <p>Another instance: In an 8-shaft satin we count 10 warp-threads, which
+  bind on the same pick in ¼ inch; this, multiplied by 8, equals 80 ends
+  per ¼, or 320 per one inch; the reed will be an 80 with 4 in a dent or a
+  64 by 5.</p>
+
+  <p>In short, the number of the reed is found by dividing the number of
+  warp-threads that are to go in one dent, in the number of ends per inch.
+  Sometimes, the reed marks are clearly visible in a sample by holding the
+  latter against the light. Silk fabrics move with very few exceptions
+  within the limits of 50 and 90 dents per inch.</p>
+
+  <p>To learn the full number of dents required for the width of the cloth,
+  simply multiply the dents per one inch with the width, adding a certain
+  allowance for shrinkage. The edges, of course, must also be taken in
+  consideration, and very often the dents that are taken up by the latter
+  are used to counter-balance that shrinkage.</p>
+
+<h3>5. DRAWING-IN THE WARP IN HARNESS AND REED</h3>
+
+  <p>Here we must specify the number of dents that contain the same number
+  of ends, and whether the latter are single or double, also the number of
+  shafts and the method of drawing-in.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 71 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71"></a>[pg 71]</span>
+
+<h3>6. WARPING TICKET</h3>
+
+  <p>To make out the warping ticket, we need to ascertain the total number
+  of ends, whether leased single or double, and the arrangement of the
+  colors.</p>
+
+<h3>7. HARNESS ARRANGEMENT</h3>
+
+  <p>This is governed by the number of ends to be drawn in and the
+  necessary shafts. If we have, for instance, 100 threads per inch to be
+  drawn on 4 shafts, we must give each shaft 25 heddles per inch. There are
+  generally between 25 and 45 heddles per inch on one shaft.</p>
+
+<h3>8. REDUCTION OF THE FILLING</h3>
+
+  <p>Here we state the number of picks per inch, give directions as to
+  doubling, if such is necessary, and if more than one color or shuttle is
+  used, the rotation thereof.</p>
+
+<h3>9. CALCULATION OF WARP AND FILLING</h3>
+
+  <p>The system adopted in this country for specifying the size of silk is
+  based on the weight in drams (avoirdupois) of a skein containing 1000
+  yards. A skein, thus weighing 5 drams, is technically called 5-dram silk.
+  The number of yards of 1-dram silk to a pound must accordingly be 256000.
+  The formulas for figuring the amount of silk required for a piece of
+  cloth are as follows:</p>
+
+<h4>Warp Calculation</h4>
+
+  <div class="blkquot">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td><i>Multiply:</i></td><td><u>Number of ends × length × count</u></td><td rowspan="2" class="vc">&nbsp;&nbsp;= lbs</td></tr>
+  <tr><td><i>Divide by:</i></td><td class="c">1000 yards × 256 drams</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 72 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72"></a>[pg 72]</span>
+
+<h4>Filling Calculation</h4>
+
+  <div class="blkquot">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td><i>Multiply:</i></td><td><u>Picks × xply × width × length of piece × count</u></td><td rowspan="2" class="vc">&nbsp;&nbsp;= lbs</td></tr>
+  <tr><td><i>Divide by:</i></td><td class="c">1000 yards × 256 drams</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="blkquot">
+  <p>The result in both cases will be in pounds.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The system of grading the silk which is in vogue in Europe, and which
+  is employed by a number of mills on this side, is as follows:</p>
+
+  <table>
+  <tr><td class="r">1</td><td>skein of</td><td>500</td><td>meters,</td><td>weighing</td><td>0,05</td><td>grams</td><td>= 1</td><td>denier</td><td colspan="2">international</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>or 1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>476</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>0,053</td><td class="c">"</td><td> = 1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Turin</td><td>system</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>or 1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>476</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>0,051</td><td class="c">"</td><td>= 1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Milan</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  </table>
+
+  <p>The warp calculation, taking the international denier, would run:</p>
+
+  <div class="blkquot">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td><u>ends in warp × length × denier × 0,05 gram</u></td></tr>
+  <tr><td><i>divided by:</i></td><td class="c">500 meters</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="blkquot">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>for the filling:</td><td><u>Picks per meter × xply × width × denier × 0,05 gram</u></td></tr>
+  <tr><td><i>divided by:</i></td><td class="c">500 meters</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="blkquot">
+  <p>Result in metric weight, kilograms and grams.</p>
+  </div>
+
+<h3>10. FINISHING</h3>
+
+  <p>Give directions as to the process of finishing to which the goods are
+  to be subjected, whether to be pressed, calendered, sized, moiréd,
+  etc.</p>
+
+<h3>11. CALCULATION OF COST</h3>
+
+  <p>If all the foregoing conditions are ascertained, and a sample or a
+  piece of the fabric executed, it remains to the manufacturer to determine
+  the exact figure at which he can produce the article. That this must be
+  done with great accuracy is naturally of the utmost importance, and the
+  calculator
+<!-- Page 73 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73"></a>[pg 73]</span>
+  must know in the first place the raw
+  stock prices, and also be acquainted with the details of the
+  manufacturing process and the rates of wages paid therein. As a rule, the
+  manufacturer establishes a scale of prices covering all the items of
+  labor cost, mill expenses, etc., and uses this as a basis for his
+  calculations.</p>
+
+  <p>A rule or formula for this operation cannot very well be given, as the
+  methods vary in almost every establishment, each choosing the one best
+  adapted to its ideas or dictates of circumstances and conditions.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 74 Blank -->
+
+<!-- Page 75 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75"></a>[pg 75]</span>
+
+<h3>DISPOSITION 1</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Taffeta glacé</i></p>
+
+<a name="Fig_89"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig89.png"
+alt="Fig. 89" /><br />Fig. 89
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 76 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76"></a>[pg 76]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>&mdash;One piece 100 yards long, 18¾ inches wide.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Stock and Dye</b>&mdash;<i>Warp.</i>&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Organ., 24/26 deniers = 1,47 drams, brown, bright, 14/16 oz.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>&mdash;</td><td>Japan Tram, 28/30 deniers = 1,65 drams, gold, bright 14/16 oz.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>&mdash;</td><td>Per</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">70</td><td>dents</td><td>at 3 single ends.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td></td><td class="c">"</td><td>18¾</td><td class="c">"</td><td>1313</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td><td>add</td><td class="r">13</td><td class="c">"</td><td>= 1% for shrinkage</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"  class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">1326</td><td>dents</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>&mdash;1st edge,</td><td class="r">9</td><td>dents</td><td>at 3 double</td><td>ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>1308</td><td class="c">"</td><td>at 3 single</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">9</td><td class="c">"</td><td>at 3 double</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="c" colspan="5">on 6 shafts, straight through.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>&mdash;1st edge,</td><td class="r">27</td><td>double</td><td>ends,</td><td>brown.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>3924</td><td>single</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">27</td><td>double</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">4032</td><td>single</td><td>ends.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c" colspan="5">Length of warp 110 yards, including 10% for take up.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+    <tr><td><b>Harness</b>&mdash;6</td> <td>shafts,</td> <td>3978</td> <td>heddles</td> <td>per</td> <td>19</td> <td>inches.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">35</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reduction of Filling</b>&mdash;Per inch, 100/102 picks, 2 ends.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs =</td><td>4032 ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>110 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,47 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>4032×110×1,47×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> =  2,65 lbs., or 2 lbs. 10,4 oz.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<!-- Page 77 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77"></a>[pg 77]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs. =</td><td>100 yards</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>102 picks.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">&nbsp;</td><td>2 ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>19 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,65 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>108 (8% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>100×36×102×2×19×165×108</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 2,73 lbs., or 2 lbs. 11,7 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">36×1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<!-- Page 78 Blank -->
+
+<!-- Page 79 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79"></a>[pg 79]</span>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<h3>DISPOSITION 2</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Surah 3-1</i></p>
+
+<a name="Fig_90"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig90.png"
+alt="Fig. 90" /><br />Fig. 90
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 80 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80"></a>[pg 80]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>&mdash;1 piece 50 yards long, 23½ in. wide.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Stock and Dyeing</b>&mdash;<i>Warp.</i>&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Organ., 1,30 drams = 20/24 deniers, black, bright, 40/50% = 22/24 ozs.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>&mdash;</td><td>Cotton No. 120/2 black.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>&mdash;</td><td>Per</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">80</td><td>dents</td><td>at 2 single ends.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td></td><td class="c">"</td><td>23½</td><td class="c">inch</td><td>1880</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td><td>add</td><td class="r">36</td><td class="c">"</td><td>= 2% for shrinkage</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"  class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">1916</td><td>dents</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>&mdash;1st edge,</td><td class="r">8</td><td>dents</td><td>2 double</td><td>ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>1900</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2 single</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">8</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2 double</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="c" colspan="5">on 4 shafts, straight draw.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>&mdash;1st edge,</td><td class="r">16</td><td>double</td><td>ends,</td><td>black.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>3800</td><td>single</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">16</td><td>double</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">3864</td><td>single</td><td>ends.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c" colspan="5">Warp 54 yards long = 8% for take up.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+    <tr><td><b>Harness</b>&mdash;4</td><td>shafts,</td><td>3832</td><td>heddles</td><td>per</td> <td>24</td><td>inches.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">40</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reduction of Filling</b>&mdash;Per 1 inch, 120 picks, 1 end.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs =</td><td>4264 ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>54 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,30 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>3864×54×1,30×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> =  1,10 lbs., or 1 lb. 1,06 oz.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<!-- Page 81 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81"></a>[pg 81]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs. =</td><td>50 yards</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>120 picks.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>24 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">840 yards =</td><td>1 skein.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">(No. 120/2) 60 skeins =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>110 (10% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>50×36×120×24×110</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 3.14 lbs., or 3 lbs. 2.24 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">36×840×60×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<hr class = "short" />
+
+<!-- Page 82 Blank -->
+
+<!-- Page 83 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83"></a>[pg 83]</span>
+
+  <h3>DISPOSITION 3</h3>
+
+  <p class="c"><i>Satin Duchesse.</i></p>
+
+<a name="Fig_91"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig91.png"
+alt="Fig. 91" /><br />Fig. 91
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 84 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84"></a>[pg 84]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>&mdash;One warp 300 yards long, 10 pieces of 60 yards
+	23 inches wide, 2 pieces in width, with one cut edge.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Stock and Dyeing</b>&mdash;<i>Warp.</i>&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Organ., 1-55/100 drams, black, bright, 20/22 oz.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>&mdash;</td><td>Jap. Tram., 1-8/10 and 2-7/10 drams, black, souple, 40/44 oz.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>We should use for this fabric 1 end filling, 5-thread, 4-5/10
+  drams, but as we have none of this size on hand, we take: 1 end, 2
+  thread, 1-8/10 drams, and 1 end, 3 thread, 2-7/10 drams.</td></tr></table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>&mdash;</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">66</td><td>dents</td><td>4 single ends.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td>46</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3036</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td><td>add</td><td class="r">54</td><td class="c">"</td><td>(1¾% shrinkage).</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="3"  class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">3090</td><td>dents</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>&mdash;</td><td rowspan="2" class="vcr">1st edge,</td><td>{</td><td class="r">2</td><td>dents</td><td>6×2,</td><td>black.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">13</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4×2,</td><td>white.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r" colspan="2">Ground,</td><td>1514</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4×1,</td><td>black.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td rowspan="4" class="vcr">Cut Edge</td><td>{</td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×2</td><td>black.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×4,</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">3</td><td class="c">"</td><td>empty.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×4,</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r" colspan="2">Ground,</td><td>1514</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4×1,</td><td >black.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td rowspan="2" class="vcr">2d edge,</td><td>{</td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×2,</td><td>black.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">13</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4×2,</td><td>white.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="7">Satin on 8 shafts, straight draw.<br />
+    Cross-thread for split edge on 3 shafts, see design.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>&mdash;</td><td class="vcr" rowspan="2">Edge,</td><td>{</td><td class="r">12/2</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">52/2</td><td>white.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r" colspan="2">Ground,</td><td>6056/1</td><td>black.</td><td>} twice over.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="vcr" rowspan="2">Edge,</td><td>{</td><td class="r">12/2</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">52/2</td><td>white.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="6">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td colspan="5">
+		<table>
+		<tr><td>12208</td><td>ends</td><td>black,</td><td>{ 318 yards long.</td></tr>
+		<tr><td class="r">416</td><td class="c">"</td><td>white,</td><td>{ = 6% shrinkage.</td></tr>
+		</table>
+	</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="6">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="6" class="r">
+		<table>
+		<tr><td>2/4</td> <td>black</td> <td>for</td> <td>ground</td> <td>thread,</td> <td>300</td> <td>yards</td> <td>long.</td></tr>
+		<tr><td>2/4</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>whip</td><td class="c">"</td><td>360</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+		<tr><td colspan="8">each one on a separate little roll.</td></tr>
+		</table>
+	</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<!-- Page 85 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85"></a>[pg 85]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Harness</b>&mdash;8</td><td>shafts,</td><td>12368</td><td>heddles</td><td>47</td><td>in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">33</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<p class="i8"> for the split edge 3 shafts, of which one has only half a heddle.</p>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Filling</b>&mdash;Per 1 in., 80 picks, 2 ends (as described before).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs =</td><td>12224 ends, black (416 white).</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>318 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,55 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td>(416)</td><td><u>12224×318×1.55×104</u></td><td> = 24,477</td><td>lbs.</td><td>org.</td><td>black.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td></td><td class="c">1000×256×100</td><td class="r"> =  0,833</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>white.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs. =</td><td>300 yards</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>80 picks.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>47 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>4,5 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>108 (8% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>300×36×80×47×4,5×108</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 21,414 lbs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">36×1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<!-- Page 86 Blank -->
+
+<!-- Page 87 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87"></a>[pg 87]</span>
+
+<h3>DISPOSITION 4</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Armure Satinée</i></p>
+
+<a name="Fig_92"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig92.png"
+alt="Fig. 92" /><br />Fig. 92
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 88 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88"></a>[pg 88]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>&mdash;One piece 60 yards long, 19 in. wide.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Stock and Dye</b>&mdash;<i>Warp.</i>&mdash;</td><td>Jap. Organ., 1,48 drams, black, bright, 18/20 oz.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>&mdash;</td><td>3 threads Jap. Tram., 2,95 drams, black, bright, 24/26 oz.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>&mdash;</td><td>Per</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">60</td><td>dents</td><td>× 4 single ends.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td></td><td class="c">"</td><td>19</td><td class="c">"</td><td>1140</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">32</td><td class="c">"</td><td>(3% for shrinkage).</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"  class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">1172</td><td>dents</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>&mdash;1st edge,</td><td class="r">12</td><td>dents</td><td>× 4 double.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>1148</td><td class="c">"</td><td>× 4 single.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">12</td><td class="c">"</td><td>× 4 double.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="c" colspan="4">on 12 shafts, straight through,</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="c" colspan="4">or on 6 shafts, as design indicates.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>&mdash;1st edge,</td><td class="r">48/2</td><td>black.</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>4592/1</td><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">48/2</td><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">4784</td><td colspan="2">single ends 64 yards long.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="2">=6½% for take up.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Harness</b>&mdash;6</td><td>shafts,</td><td>4688</td><td>heddles</td><td>per</td> <td>19½</td><td>inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">40</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reduction of Filling</b>&mdash;Per 1 inch, 104 picks, 2 ends.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs =</td><td>4784 ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>64 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,48 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>4784×64×1,48×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 1,84 lbs., or 1 lb. 13,44 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<!-- Page 89 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89"></a>[pg 89]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs. =</td><td>60 yards</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>104 picks.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">&nbsp;</td><td>2 ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>19½ inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>2,95 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>108 (8% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>60×36×104×2×19,5×2,95×108</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 3,03 lbs., or 3 lbs. 0,48 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">36×1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<!-- Page 90 Blank -->
+
+<!-- Page 91 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91"></a>[pg 91]</span>
+
+<h3>DISPOSITION 5</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Surface Printed Armure.</i></p>
+
+<a name="Fig_93"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig93.png"
+alt="Fig. 93" /><br />Fig. 93
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 92 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92"></a>[pg 92]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>&mdash;One piece 50 yards long, 18½ in. wide.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Stock and Dyeing</b>&mdash;<i>Warp.</i>&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Organ., 1,50 drams, 24/28 deniers, white bright, pure dye.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>&mdash;</td><td>5 thread Ital. Tram., 4 drams, 13/14 deniers, white, bright, pure dye.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>&mdash;</td><td>Per</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">52</td><td>dents</td><td>2×2.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td></td><td class="c">"</td><td>18½</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">962</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">20</td><td class="c">"</td><td>(2% shrinkage).</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"  class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">982</td><td>dents.</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>&mdash;1st edge,</td><td class="r">7</td><td>dents</td><td>4×2 gros de Tours.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>968</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×2 armure</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">7</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4×2 gros de Tours.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="5" class="c">Armure ground on 12 shafts, straight draw.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="5" class="c">Gros de Tours, edges on 4 shafts.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>&mdash;</td><td>Ground warp, 54 yards. 1936/2 white.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Gros de Tours edges, 55 yards. 2×28/2 white, on separate rolls.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Total</td><td> . . . 3984 single ends.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Harness</b>&mdash;12</td><td>shafts,</td><td>1936</td><td>heddles</td><td>per</td> <td>18½</td><td>inches.</td><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">8-2/3</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="8">4 Shafts gros de Tours edges, with 28 heddles on each side.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reduction of Filling</b>&mdash;Per 1 inch, 96 picks, 1 end.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs =</td><td>3984 ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>54 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,50 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>3984×54×1,50×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 1,31 lbs., or 1 lb. 4,96 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<!-- Page 93 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93"></a>[pg 93]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs. =</td><td>50 yards</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>96 picks.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>19 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>4 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>108 (8% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>50×36×96×19×4×108</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 1,54 lbs., or 1 lb. 8,64 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">36×1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+  <p class="i8">After weaving, the small flower effects have to be printed on the
+  cloth.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<!-- Page 94 Blank -->
+
+<!-- Page 95 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95"></a>[pg 95]</span>
+
+<h3>DISPOSITION 6</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Pekin</i>: 8 shaft satin and repp.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_94"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig94.png"
+alt="Fig. 34" /><br />Fig. 34
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 96 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96"></a>[pg 96]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>&mdash;1 piece 100 yards long, 20¼ in. wide.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td class="r">{ </td><td>Ital. Organ., 1-35/100 drams, black, bright, 20/22 oz.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td><b>Stock and Dyeing</b>&mdash;<i>Warp.</i> { </td><td>Ital. Organ., 1-15/100 drams, sky, bright, pure dye</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">{ </td><td>Cotton No. 100/2, scarlet.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>&mdash;</td><td>3 threads, Jap. Tram., 2-8/10 drams, scarlet, bright, 14/16 oz.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+ 	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="6"></td><td>{ 6×1,</td><td>black</td><td>satin</td></tr>
+	<tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>&mdash;</td><td>Per</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">68</td><td>dents</td><td>{ 6×2,</td><td>colored</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="6"></td><td>{ 2×1,</td><td class="c">"</td><td>repp.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td></td><td class="c">"</td><td>20¼</td><td class="c">"</td><td>1377</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td><td>add</td><td class="r">23</td><td class="c">"</td><td colspan="3">(1½% for shrinkage).</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"  class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">1400</td><td>dents</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>&mdash;1st edge,</td><td class="r">7</td><td>dents</td><td>6×2</td><td>satin.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>34</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×2</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>10</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>&nbsp;} twice</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td>&nbsp;} over</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>10</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×2</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>39</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">5</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td>&nbsp;} twice</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">4</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td>&nbsp;} over</td><td>} 7 times</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">5</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td></td><td>} over</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>15</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>15</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">5</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td>&nbsp;} twice</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">4</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td>&nbsp;} over</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">5</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">5</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>28</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">7</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×2</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td>Satin</td><td>on</td><td>1st</td><td>section</td><td>of</td><td>8</td><td>shaft</td> <td>skip draw.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td>Binder</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2nd</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+    <tr><td>Repp</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3d</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<!-- Page 97 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97"></a>[pg 97]</span>
+
+  <p>On each side of every repp stripe two ends of the satin warp must be
+  entered on the 2 binder shafts (2d section), to prevent the ends of the
+  satin to slide over into the repp stripes.</p>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>&mdash;<b>I.</b></td><td colspan="3"><i>Beam satin,</i> 106 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>1st edge,</td><td class="r">42/2</td><td>black.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Ground,</td><td class="r">204/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td><td rowspan="10">7 times over</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">12/2</td><td>sky.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">180/1</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">12/2</td><td>sky.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">234/1</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">48/2</td><td>sky.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">180/1</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">48/2</td><td>sky.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">30/1</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">168/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2d edge,</td><td class="r">42/<font size="-2">2</font></td><td>"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td colspan="4">
+		<table>
+		<tr><td>6132</td><td>single</td><td>ends</td><td>black.</td></tr>
+		<tr><td>1680</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>sky.</td></tr>
+		</table>
+	</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r"><b>II.</b></td><td colspan="3"><i>Beam repp</i>, 110 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">4/1</td><td>scarlet.</td><td>}</td><td rowspan="10">7 times over</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">4/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">4/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+ 	<tr><td></td><td colspan="4">504 single ends scarlet cotton</td></tr>
+   </table><p />
+
+  <p>This warp has to be beamed in stripes. Make out a diagram for the
+  warper the same as shown in Fig. <a href="#Fig_95">95</a>.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 98 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98"></a>[pg 98]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_95"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig95.png"
+alt="Fig. 95" /><br />Fig. 95
+  </div>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Harness</b>&mdash;Fig. <a href="#Fig_95">95</a> shows how to make a
+    diagram of a harness for a Pekin. The heddles are marked per one shaft.
+    As the repp stripes are only small ones, we use for the satin a full
+    harness, that is, one without open spaces for the repp stripe. All
+    together we have in the satin warp 6888 single and double ends to draw
+    in; of these 252 ends are used for binders, on both sides of the repp
+    stripes. Thus remain for</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td>8</td><td>shafts,</td><td>6636</td><td>heddles</td><td>per</td> <td>20½</td><td>inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">40</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reduction of Filling</b>&mdash;Per inch, Per 1 inch, 144 picks, 1 end.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs =</td><td>6132 ends (1680 ends sky).</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>106 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,35 drams (sky 1,15 drams).</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>6132×106×1,35×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 3,56 lbs. for black, or 3 lbs. 8,96 ozs. 10,4 oz.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>1680×106×1,15×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 0,83 lbs. for sky, or 0 lbs. 13,28 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<!-- Page 99 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99"></a>[pg 99]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td class="r">? lbs =</td><td>504 ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>110 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">840 yards =</td><td>1 skein.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">(No. 100/2) 50 skeins = </td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>504×110×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 1,37 lbs. scarlet cotton, or 1 lb. 5,92 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">840×50×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs. =</td><td>100 yards</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>144 picks.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>21 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>2,8 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>108 (8% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>100×36×144×21×2,8×108</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 3,57 lbs., or 3 lbs. 9,12 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">36×1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 100 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100"></a>[pg 100]</span>
+
+<h3>JACQUARD WEAVES</h3>
+
+  <p>Jacquard weaves usually show on a plain ground figure or flower
+  effects. To obtain these effects the ground is made of one weave, say
+  taffeta, while the figures or flowers are produced in another weave, say
+  satin.</p>
+
+  <p>We enter the warp through a jacquard harness, and according to the
+  repeat use a 200, 400, 600, 900, 1200, etc., hook jacquard machine, which
+  means 200, 400, 600, 900 and 1200 ends per repeat.</p>
+
+  <p>With a 600-hook machine a larger repeat can be produced than with a
+  499-hook machine. For instance, if we want to make a cloth the figures of
+  which are to be two inches apart, it is a two-inch repeat, and use the
+  count of 50/4 or 200 ends per inch, we can use a 400-hook machine, 2 in.
+  x 200 ends. But we can make this cloth also on a 1200-hook machine, only
+  the repeat must be designed three times. The advantage of using a
+  1200-hook machine with the count 50/4 is that 2, 3, 4, 6-inch repeats can
+  be produced, while with a 400-hook machine, only a 2-inch repeat can be
+  made.</p>
+
+  <p>There is no end to all the different weaves and the possible flower
+  and other pattern effects that can be made with the jacquard machine. For
+  a jacquard weaving plant the designing is the most important factor.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>BOX LOOM WEAVES INCLUDING CREPES</h3>
+
+  <p>Box looms are required for weaves such as bayadères, checks, plaids
+  (see pages 63-65), bengalines, crêpes, etc., where two or more shuttles
+  are needed to bring out the effect.</p>
+
+  <p>For the crêpes (crêpe de chine, crêpe georgette) only two shuttles are
+  needed, while plaids and other articles are made with more shuttles.</p>
+
+  <p>To weave such articles the loom or the lay must be fitted with two or
+  more shuttle boxes on one or both sides of the loom.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 101 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101"></a>[pg 101]</span>
+
+  <p>If a manufacturer decides to change plain looms to box looms or buy
+  new box looms, it is wise to get 4 × 4 boxes, or four shuttle boxes on
+  each side.</p>
+
+  <p>With these looms about everything can be made that is called for in
+  box-loom effects, and as styles change, it is wise to be prepared.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>MANUFACTURING COSTS</h3>
+
+  <p>The calculator first ascertains for the warp: What silk will be used,
+  the cost of the same, total number of ends in the warps for the amount of
+  silk, cost of throwing, dyeing, winding, warping, twisting, entering, and
+  weaving.</p>
+
+  <p>Then the filling: Silk to be used, how much, cost of silk, cost of
+  throwing, dyeing, winding, doubling, quilling.</p>
+
+  <p>After this determine the cost of weaving, cloth picking, finishing,
+  factory costs, and selling expenses.</p>
+
+  <p>To-day most of the operations are paid by "piece work."</p>
+
+  <p>The calculator must always take into consideration that poor raw silk
+  or poor dyeing make production slow, increase the cost of labor, and also
+  that more waste will be made.</p>
+
+  <p>THROWING: Regular organ usually has 16 turns per inch in the first
+  twist and 14 turns to the inch in the second or reverse twist. Tram
+  receives only one twisting, about three turns to the inch.</p>
+
+  <p>As the warp twisting-in is paid for at so much per hundred or thousand
+  ends, no matter how short or long the warp is, it is a saving to make the
+  warps as long as possible, especially in raw, black and staple
+  colors.</p>
+
+  <p>The calculator must not forget the cost of entering the first warp in
+  a harness, also the reeding.</p>
+
+  <p>Most mills figure the cost of harness and reed in the expense
+  accounts. If plain and fancy goods are made an extra percentage should be
+  figured for the latter.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 102 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102"></a>[pg 102]</span>
+
+  <p>EXPENSES are figured differently, as almost every manufacturer has his
+  own system. If a mill makes only a few staple articles it is easy to put
+  down the cost of expenses. Say the mill has a production of 500,000 yards
+  per year, that the expense amounts to $35,000, the cost then is 7 cents
+  per yard.</p>
+
+  <p>Manufacturers making all kinds of goods sometimes figure the expenses
+  in percentage, say, for plain goods, with a few picks, like gros-grain,
+  peau de soie, etc., 10 per cent. per yard. Taffeta, satin, etc., having
+  more picks, 12½ per cent. per yard, and fancy and jacquard goods, 15 per
+  cent. per yard. In the expense account we include all charges except raw
+  silk, throwing, dyeing and piece work.</p>
+
+  <p>SELLING EXPENSES. Before a calculation is finished we must add the
+  selling expenses to the cost, also take account of the trade discount.
+  Small mills usually sell through a commission house, which pays all
+  expenses and charges a certain commission. Many large firms have their
+  own selling end, and some have their sales guaranteed by a commission
+  house or a bank.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 103 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103"></a>[pg 103]</span>
+
+<h3>CALCULATIONS</h3>
+
+  <p>The prices marked in the following calculations are about as in
+  "normal times." Absolutely correct piece work prices cannot be given as
+  different localities have different prices.</p>
+
+  <p>Calculations are usually made per 100 yards, 100-meter warps.</p>
+
+  <p>Most goods gain from 3 to 7 per cent. in weaving. That is, if we make
+  a warp of 300 meters for a satin and we obtain 315 yards of cloth, this
+  gain should not be calculated, as usually there is no account taken of
+  samples used in the selling department. But the loss in length should be
+  figured and taken account of on goods with a heavy rib, such as moiré,
+  faille, etc.</p>
+
+  <p>DISP. 7&mdash;A 3 1/3-inch repeat can be obtained with a 600-hook
+  jacquard machine, seven repeats in a width of 23 inches.</p>
+
+  <p>DISP. 8&mdash;Taffeta weave, but the two cotton picks must go in one
+  hole. This article can only be made with at least two shuttle boxes on
+  each side. For warping use a single and double cross reed, heavy cotton,
+  no knots must be tied.</p>
+
+  <p>DISP. 10&mdash;This article must be warped with as much tension as
+  possible and no knots should be tied in. Silk is to be delivered on
+  bobbins from throwster.</p>
+
+<h4>CANTON CREPE</h4>
+
+  <p>DISP. 9&mdash;Can also be made with Canton silk for filling and may be
+  called Canton crêpe. As Canton silk is much cheaper than Japan, the
+  manufacturer can use 4-thread Canton instead of 3-thread Japan for
+  filling at a little difference in cost, thus the cloth will be heavier,
+  but Canton silk is not as even and clean as Japan.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 104 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104"></a>[pg 104]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;TAFFETA GLACE Reed 70/3</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 1</td><td>Width 18¾ in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Warp&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Ex. Class 12/14</td><td class="r">$5.00</td><td>raw silk</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.60</td><td>throwing</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. brown bright</td><td class="r">.45</td><td>dyeing</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>16-oz.</td><td class="r">.15</td><td>winding</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>raw lbs. 2.60</td><td class="r">$6.20</td><td></td><td>$16.23</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;4032 at 3¢.</td><td class="r">1.21</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;3978 at 25¢. per 300 meters</td><td class="r">.33</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2">Filling&mdash;Jap. Tram. Best No. 1 13/15</td><td class="r">$4.25</td><td>raw silk</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.45</td><td>throwing</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2/2 ends 104 picks</td><td class="r">.45</td><td>dyeing</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.15</td><td>winding</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>gold bright 16 oz.</td><td class="r">.15</td><td>doubling</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.10</td><td>quilling</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>raw lbs. 2.73</td><td class="r">$5.55</td><td></td><td class="r">15.02</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">7.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">7.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$48.79</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">5% trade discount</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">7½% selling commission</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 87½</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.5576</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;SURAH 3-1  Reed 80/2</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 2</td><td>Width 36 in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Warp&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Ex. Class. 10/12</td><td class="r">$5.20</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.65</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. bright black</td><td class="r">.81</td><td>discount 15%</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>24 oz.</td><td class="r">.30</td><td>dyed 20%</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 3.36 </td><td class="r">$6.96</td><td></td><td>$23.39</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;5904 at 2¾¢.</td><td class="r">1.62</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;5872 at 35¢.&mdash;600 lb. warp</td><td class="r">.25</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2">Filling&mdash;cotton 120/1</td><td class="r">$1.25</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.10</td><td>dye</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>black 1 end 120 picks</td><td class="r">.08</td><td>winding</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.07</td><td>quilling</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 9.50</td><td class="r">$1.50</td><td></td><td class="r">14.25</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">12.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.50</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">2.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">7.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$62.01</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">5% discount</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">6% commission</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 89</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.6967</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<!-- Page 105 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105"></a>[pg 105]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;SATIN DUCHESSE Reed 66/4</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 3</td><td>Width 2×23 in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Warp&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14</td><td class="r">$5.00</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. black bright</td><td class="r">.73</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>22 oz.</td><td class="r">.21</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 8.50</td><td class="r">$6.54</td><td></td><td class="r">$55.59</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;12624 at 2¾¢</td><td class="r">3.47</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;12256 at 25¢.  600 meters</td><td class="r">.51</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2">Filling&mdash;Jap. Tram No. 1&mdash;14/16</td><td class="r">$4.00</td> <td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.40</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>black souple 44 oz.</td><td class="r">1.60</td><td>net</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.40</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>1/2 and 1/3 = 1/5  80 picks</td><td class="r">.40</td> <td>doubling</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.30</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 7.14</td><td class="r">$7.10</td><td></td><td class="r">50.69</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">13.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">2.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">2.50</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">8.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$135.76</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 89</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.7627</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;ARMURE SATIN  Reed 60/4</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 4</td><td>Width 26 in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">STOCK AND DYE</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Warp&mdash;</td><td>Jap. Ex. 12/14</td><td class="r">$4.75</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. black bright</td><td class="r">.64</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>20 oz.</td><td class="r">.19</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 4.30</td><td class="r">$6.18</td><td></td><td class="r">$26.57</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;6520 at 2¾¢.</td><td class="r">1.79</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;6424 at 25¢.  600 meters</td><td class="r">.27</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2">Filling&mdash;Jap. Tram No. 1  16/18</td><td class="r">$4.00</td> <td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.30</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>black bright 26 oz.</td><td class="r">.94</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.25</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2/3 ends 104 picks</td><td class="r">.25</td> <td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.17</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 6.80</td><td class="r">$5.91</td><td></td><td class="r">40.19</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">10.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">7.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$87.82</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 89</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.9867</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<!-- Page 106 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106"></a>[pg 106]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;PRINTED ARMURE  Reed 52/2/2</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 5</td><td>Width 18½ in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">STOCK AND DYE</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Warp&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14</td><td class="r">$5.00</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. white bright</td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>P.D.</td><td class="r">.23</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.12</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 2.62</td><td class="r">$5.95</td><td></td><td class="r">$15.59</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;3984/1 at 3¢.</td><td class="r">1.20</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;1992/2 at 30¢.  300 meters</td><td class="r">.20</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2">Filling&mdash;Ital. Tram. souple 13/14</td><td class="r">$4.50</td> <td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.30</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>white bright P.D.</td><td class="r">.23</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.10</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>1/5 end 96 picks</td><td class="r">.07</td> <td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.17</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 3.08</td><td class="r">$5.20</td><td></td><td class="r">16.02</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">8.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">5.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">8.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$55.01</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 87½</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.6287</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<!-- Page 107 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107"></a>[pg 107]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;SATIN STRIPED REPS  Reed 60/62</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 6</td><td>Width 20¼ in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">STOCK AND DYE</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Warp&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Ex. Organ. 24/26</td><td class="r">$5.00</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>black bright 22 oz.</td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.73</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.21</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 3.56</td><td class="r">$6.54</td><td></td><td class="r">$23.28</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Ital. Ex. Organ. 18/20</td><td class="r">$5.20</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.65</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>sky bright P.D.</td><td class="r">.23</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.12</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. .83</td><td class="r">$6.20</td><td></td><td class="r">5.15</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Cotton 100/2</td><td class="r">$1.00</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.12</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.08</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>scarlet lbs. 1.37</td><td class="r">$1.20</td><td></td><td class="r">1.64</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;8316 at 4¢.</td><td class="r">3.32</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;7434 at 50¢.  300 meters</td><td class="r">1.24</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Filling&mdash;Jap. tram. No. 1 14/16</td><td class="r">$4.00</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.35</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>scarlet bright 16 oz. 1/3 ends</td><td class="r">.45</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.15</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>144 picks.   lbs. 3.57</td><td class="r">.10</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">$5.05</td><td></td><td class="r">18.04</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">12.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$66.67</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses 15%</td><td class="r">10.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$76.67</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 87½</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.8763</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<!-- Page 108 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108"></a>[pg 108]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;MESSALINE BROCADE Reed 60/3</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 7</td><td>Width 23 in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Warp&mdash;Jap. Ex. 13/15</td><td class="r">$4.50</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2-Thread navy bright 16 oz.</td><td class="r">.45</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.15</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 3.20</td><td class="r">$5.70</td><td></td><td class="r">$18.24</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;4320 at 3¢.</td><td class="r">1.30</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;4260 at 30¢.  300 meters</td><td class="r">.41</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Filling&mdash;Jap. Tram No. 1 13/15</td><td class="r">$4.00</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.35</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>emerald ex. bright dye 24 oz.</td><td class="r">.95</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.25</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>1/3 ends  100 picks</td><td class="r">.15</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 2.50</td><td class="r">$5.70</td><td></td><td class="r">14.25</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">9.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$45.20</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses 15%</td><td class="r">6.78</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$51.98</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 87½</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.5941</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;BENGALINE Reed 72/2 by 1 single; 1 double</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 8</td><td>Width 36 in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Warp&mdash;Jap. ex. 13/15</td><td class="r">$4.50</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. black bright</td><td class="r">.64</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>20 oz.</td><td class="r">.19</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 5.77</td><td class="r">$5.93</td><td></td><td class="r">$34.22</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;7964 at 2¾¢.</td><td class="r">2.19</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;5296 at 30¢.  600 meters</td><td class="r">.27</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2">Filling&mdash;56 picks by</td><td class="r">$4.50</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>5 organ. 2 Cotton</td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.64</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.19</td><td class="r">.45</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.12</td><td class="r">.10</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>40 picks Organ. as warp</td><td class="r">$6.05</td><td class="r">.08</td><td class="r">6.05</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td colspan="2">lbs. 1</td><td class="r">.07</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td colspan="2">16 picks black cotton 15/4</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td colspan="2">lbs. 22.50</td><td class="r">$ .70</td><td class="r">15.75</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">12.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.50</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">3.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">8.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$82.98</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 91</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.9119</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<!-- Page 109 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109"></a>[pg 109]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;CREPE DE CHINE (Taffeta weave)  Reed 60/2/2</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="t">Disp. 9</td><td>Width 40 in.<br />44½ in. in reed</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Warp&mdash;Jap. Ex. Grege 20/22</td><td class="r">$4.50</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.05</td><td>winding</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2% waste lbs. 5.60</td><td class="r">$4.55</td><td></td><td class="r">$25.48</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;5340/2 at 2½¢.</td><td class="r">2.67</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;5340/2 at 25¢.  600 meters</td><td class="r">.23</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2">Filling&mdash;Jap. No. 1 13/15</td><td class="r"></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>4 ends hard twist 60 turns</td><td class="r">$4.00</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">1.25</td><td>throwing</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>84 picks by 2 right, 2 left twist</td><td class="r">0.05</td><td>quilling</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>25% waste and shrinkage</td><td class="r">$5.30</td><td></td><td class="r"></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td colspan="3">lbs. 6.00</td><td class="r">31.80</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">9.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing and dyeing</td><td class="r">5.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">7.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$82.18</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">5% discount</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">5% selling expense</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 90</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.9131</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+ <hr class="short" />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td>Article&mdash;</td><td colspan="3">CREPE GEORGETTE  Reed 50/2</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td colspan="3">(Taffeta weave) by 1 right, 1 left twist</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 10</td><td>Width 40 in.  47 in. in reed</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Warp&mdash;Ital. Ex. Class 16/18 Raw</td><td class="r">$5.20</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">1.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2-Thread hardtwist 75 turns</td><td class="r">$6.80</td><td></td><td class="r">$36.72</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">30% shrinkage and waste lbs. 5.40</td><td class="r"></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;4640/1  30/2  4760 at 4¢.</td><td class="r">1.90</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;4700 at 50¢. 600 meters</td><td class="r">.40</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Filling&mdash;Same silk as warp</td><td class="r"></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>100 picks by 2 right, 2 left twist</td><td class="r">$5.20</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">1.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.10</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 5.00</td><td class="r">$6.90</td><td></td><td class="r">34.50</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">15.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing and dyeing</td><td class="r">6.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$95.52</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses 12½%</td><td class="r">11.94</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$107.46</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 87½</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $1.2281</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 110 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110"></a>[pg 110]</span>
+
+<h3>CALCULATION BLANK</h3>
+
+<pre>
+
+      ARTICLE                                     REED
+      ---------------------------------------------------------------------
+      DISP                                        WIDTH
+      ---------------------------------------------------------------------
+      WARP
+      ---------------------------------------------------------------------
+                                                  |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+                                                  |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+                                                  |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+                                                  |   |   |   |   |
+      WARPING                                     |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+      TWISTING                                    |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+      FILLING                                     |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+                                                  |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+                                                  |   |   |   |   |
+      WEAVING                                     |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+      PICKING                                     |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+      FINISHING                                   |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+      EXPENSES                                    |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+                                                  |   |   |   |   |
+                                                  |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+
+                            PRICE PER YARD
+
+</pre>
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 111 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111"></a>[pg 111]</span>
+
+<h3>INDEX</h3>
+
+      <p>DRAWING-IN, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Straight Draws, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Skip Draws, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Point Draws, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Section Draws, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></p>
+      <p>THE WEAVES AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">The Taffeta Weave, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Gros de Tours Weaves, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Serge Weaves, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Twill Weaves, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></p>
+      <p>FILLING EFFECTS <a href="#Page_21">21</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Satin de Lyon, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Levantine, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Polonaise, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Serge grosse coté, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Serge Romaine, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Serge, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></p>
+      <p>WARP EFFECTS, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Levantine, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></p>
+      <p>EVENSIDED TWILLS, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Surah, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Croise, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></p>
+      <p>POINTED TWILLS, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></p>
+      <p>SATIN WEAVES, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Satine de Chine, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Satin Merveilleux, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">7 Harness Satin, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Duchesse, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></p>
+      <p>IRREGULAR SATINS, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Satin Ture, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Satin à la Reine, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></p>
+      <p>DERIVATIVE WEAVES, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">From the Taffeta, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">From the Twills, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">From the Satin Weave, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Cannele and Repp Weaves, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></p>
+      <p>DOUBLE FACED FABRICS, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Warp Effects, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></p>
+      <p>FILLING EFFECTS, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Pekins, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Bayadères, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></p>
+
+<!-- Page 112 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112"></a>[pg 112]</span>
+      <p class="i2">Checks and Plaids, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></p>
+      <p>DECOMPOSITION, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">The Weave, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Length and Width of the Fabric, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">The Stock and Its Dye, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Reed Calculation, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Drawing-in the Warp in Harness and Reed, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Warping Ticket, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Harness Arrangement, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Reduction of the Filling, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Calculation of Warp and Filling, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Finishing, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Calculation of Cost, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></p>
+      <p>DISPOSITIONS, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></p>
+      <p>JACQUARD WEAVES, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Box Loom Weaves Including Crêpes, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Manufacturing Costs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></p>
+      <p>CALCULATIONS, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Calculation Blank, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></p>
+
+<!-- Page 113 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113"></a>[pg 113]</span>
+
+<div style="margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%;">
+
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal; line-height:1.75em;">
+<span style="font-size:150%;">OTHER BOOKS</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">Published by</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:100%;">CLIFFORD &amp; LAWTON</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+<p class="c">373 Fourth Avenue&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;New York.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal; line-height:1.75em;">
+<span style="font-size:100%;">THE AMERICAN SILK JOURNAL</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+  <p>Established 1882. A monthly magazine devoted exclusively to dress
+  silks, ribbons, and all silken materials, reflecting the progress of mill
+  and market, fashions, trade events and news. Published on the first of
+  each month.</p>
+
+  <p>Subscription: United States, $3; Canada, $3.50; Foreign, $4 a
+  year.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:100%;">SERIVALOR</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:80%;">or the True Value of Raw Silk</span><br />
+</h1>
+<h3>By ADOLF ROSENZWEIG,</h3>
+
+  <p class="c">The great international authority on silk.</p>
+
+  <p>A practical and logical
+  system of standardizing raw silks. Price, $4.25 postpaid.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:100%;">DICTIONARY OF SILK TERMS</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+  <p>The most complete and authentic dictionary ever published on silk
+  terms, from the raw silk to the finished broad and narrow silks,
+  including weaves, styles, patterns, effects, colors, trade-marks, etc.
+  Bound in cloth, 93 pages, price, $1.50 postpaid.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:100%;">COLOR VALUE</span><br />
+</h1>
+<h3>By C.R. CLIFFORD.</h3>
+
+  <p>A valuable book treating on color contrasts and harmonies. It will
+  assist the manufacturer, styler, designer and retailer in the selection
+  of colors. Colored plates and diagrams illustrating the fundamental
+  principles of the subject, of inestimable value to either student or
+  artisan. Price, $1.50 postpaid.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:100%;">PERIOD FURNISHINGS</span><br />
+</h1>
+<h3>By C.R. CLIFFORD.</h3>
+
+  <p>An encyclopedia of furnishings, decorations, furniture. Contains 2,731
+  illustrations, 266 pages, size 9¼ x 12; 112 fabric illustrations,
+  covering all periods. Price, $6.00 postpaid.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14600 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #14600 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/14600)
diff --git a/old/14600-8.txt b/old/14600-8.txt
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+Project Gutenberg's Theory Of Silk Weaving, by Arnold Wolfensberger
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Theory Of Silk Weaving
+
+Author: Arnold Wolfensberger
+
+Release Date: January 5, 2005 [EBook #14600]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THEORY OF SILK WEAVING ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Stan Goodman, Keith Edkins and the PG Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+
+
+                                                                   [Page 1]
+THEORY OF SILK WEAVING
+
+
+                                                                   [Page 3]
+THEORY OF SILK WEAVING
+
+A Treatise on the Construction and Application of Weaves, and the
+Decomposition and Calculation of Broad and Narrow, Plain, Novelty and
+Jacquard Silk Fabrics
+
+Containing 95 Plates
+
+_By_ ARNOLD WOLFENSBERGER
+
+Graduate of the Textile Institute of Zurich, Switzerland
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Second Revised and Enlarged Edition
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NEW YORK
+
+_Issued by_ THE AMERICAN SILK JOURNAL
+
+CLIFFORD & LAWTON
+
+_Publishers_
+
+_1921_
+
+                                                                   [Page 4]
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+COPYRIGHT. 1921. by CLIFFORD & LAWTON
+
+_All rights reserved_
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+GROLIER CRAFT PRESS, Printers. 229 West Twenty-eighth Street, New York City
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                   [Page 5]
+PREFACE
+
+The silk industry of America has of late years rapidly advanced to the
+front rank among the great textile industries of the world. It may indeed
+be proud of this position, to which that enterprising spirit and untiring
+energy peculiar to our nation, combined with our great technical and
+natural resources, has brought it.
+
+That we are, on the other hand, not yet at the height of perfection we are
+also compelled to acknowledge, but if we consider the short space of time
+that the American industry has required for its development, as compared to
+the decades, almost centuries, to which some of the great European silk
+centers can look back, the fact is neither surprising nor discouraging.
+
+While it must not be our aim to imitate or copy their ways, inasmuch as out
+conditions and circumstances are quite different from theirs, we may still
+profitably study their methods in order to overcome our deficiencies.
+
+The greatest advantage which our competitors derive from such a long
+existence consists in having at their disposal a force of skilful, trained
+help. The manufacturers, appreciating the importance of this factor, make
+great efforts and pecuniary sacrifices to elevate and maintain the high
+standard of their industry.
+
+For instance, they support textile schools and lecture courses, where young
+men can acquire a thorough technical education and equip themselves for a
+career of usefulness, thereby serving their own interests and at the same
+time furthering those of their chosen profession.
+
+                                                                   [Page 6]
+This beneficial influence cannot fail to exert itself from the standard of
+the higher employer down to that of the weaver, who would naturally take
+more pains and interest in his work than if he were a mere mechanical
+appendage to his loom in order to keep it in motion.
+
+Very little has been done in his country for technical education as far as
+the silk industry is concerned, and it was on this special branch, that
+prompted the author to offer in the present little work a treatise on the
+theory of shaft weaving for broad silks and ribbons.
+
+It is divided into three principal parts:
+
+  #1st. Drawing-in the warp in the harness.
+  2nd. The weaves and their application.
+  3rd. Decomposition or analysis of the cloth.#
+
+To the foregoing there have been added in the revised and enlarged edition
+several additional parts covering the following: JACQUARD WEAVES, BOX LOOM
+WEAVES, including CREPES, and COST CALCULATIONS for plain and fancy weaves.
+
+The subject while condensed, is made as clear and comprehensible as
+possible, and to many desirous of increasing their knowledge in this
+direction, this should prove a valuable help.
+
+The author, through the medium of this work, hopes to win the approval and
+encouragement of the manufacturers, and will feel amply repaid should his
+efforts tend to develop a deeper interest in the "Queen of Textiles."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                   [Page 7]
+THEORY OF SILK WEAVING
+
+DRAWING-IN
+
+With this term we designate the operation preceding the weaving, by which
+all the warp-threads are drawn through the heddles of the harness.
+
+The order in which this is done varies according to the weave and the
+nature of the fabric to be produced; so we distinguish:
+
+  #Straight draws,
+  Skip draws,
+  Point draws,
+  Section draws.#
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+STRAIGHT DRAWS
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 1]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                   [Page 8]
+[Illustration: Fig. 2]
+
+These form the simplest and most common method of drawing-in. We begin with
+the first heddle on the left side of the shaft _nearest to the warp-beam_,
+then take the first heddle of second shaft and so on until all the shafts
+the set contains are used in rotation. This completes one "draw," and this
+operation is repeated until all the warp-threads are taken up.
+
+The method of making the shaft nearest to the warp-beam the first, is
+almost universal with the silk business and is technically called
+_drawing-in from back to front_.
+
+The opposite, or drawing in from _front to rear_, is used occasionally,
+however, and in this case makes the first heddle on the left hand side of
+the front shaft No. 1.
+
+The making out of the _Drawing-in Draft_, which must indicate the
+arrangement or the rotation in which the warp-threads are drawn in, can be
+done in various ways, of which we will mention the two most popular
+methods. The first is by using common designing paper, and indicating the
+rotation by dots. The horizonal rows of squares represent the shafts, the
+vertical rows the warp-threads. Fig. 1 shows four repeats of a straight
+draw on six harness marked out according to this idea. A second method is
+to use paper ruled horizontally, the lines representing the shafts; and to
+draw vertical lines for the warp-threads. The latter are made to stop on
+                                                                   [Page 9]
+the lines bearing the number of the shafts into which the respective
+threads are to be drawn. Fig. 2 is such a draft, illustrating six repeats
+of a draw on four harness from "Front to Rear."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SKIP DRAWS
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 3]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 4]
+
+The draws coming under this heading are used very extensively in silk
+weaving, especially for fabrics requiring a heavy warp and a large number
+of shafts. Enter first the odd and then the even shafts. An 8 harness draw
+of this kind, of which three repeats are shown in Fig. 3, runs as follows:
+1, 3, 5, 7, 2, 4, 6, 8.
+
+Fig. 4 is a 12 harness draw of the same class.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+POINT DRAWS
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 5]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 10]
+[Illustration: Fig. 6]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 7]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 8]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 9]
+
+                                                                  [Page 11]
+Point draws are a combination of a regular straight draw from back to front
+and one from front to back, the first and the last shafts only being used
+once, while the rest receive two ends each in one repeat of the draw. Fig.
+5 illustrates a regular point draw in 2 repeats on 10 shafts. It will be
+seen that 14 ends make a repeat; in fact, the number of warp-threads
+required for one draw will always be double the number of harness less 2,
+hence a 12 harness regular point draw will require 22 warp-threads for a
+repeat.
+
+The drawing-in draft illustrated in Fig. 6 is a slight variation of the
+regular point draw; it consists, as will be seen, of a draw from back to
+front, and also a full one from front to back, there by causing a _double
+point_.
+
+Another change from the regular point draw is illustrated in Figs. 7 and 8;
+this class may be called _Broken point draws_, because a new draw is begun
+before the other one is complete. Fig. 9 also comes in this class and
+represents a _zigzag draw_ on 10 harness.
+
+The drawing-in drafts which we have described under the head of "Point
+draws," are used mostly to obtain the various pointed and zigzag effects.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SECTION DRAWS
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 10]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 12]
+[Illustration: Fig. 11]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 12]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 13]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 14]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 13]
+[Illustration: Fig. 15]
+
+This division of drawing-in drafts is used extensively in silk
+manufacturing; for instance, in all fabrics having a ground warp and a
+binder warp, also in double-face goods, or where two different weaves are
+combined in one effect.
+
+One or more threads are drawn on the first section, then one or more on a
+second and third, if the harness is divided in so many sets.
+
+The following examples will illustrate the principle of these draws.
+
+In Fig. 10, shafts 1, 2, 3, 4 from the first set, shafts 5 and 6 the
+second, 8 threads are drawn straight on the first, then 2 on the second
+section.
+
+Fig. 11, first set shafts 1 to 6 inclusive, second set shafts 7 and 8.
+
+Fig. 12 is drawn end and end on two sections having 8 shafts each.
+
+Figs. 13, 14 and 15, while not strictly belonging to the class of section
+draws, may, however, be considered under this heading. The idea is to draw
+a certain number of ends in one part of the harness and another group in
+another part, be it straight, point or skip, which will cause the effect on
+the cloth to be accordingly transposed or broken up.
+
+                                                                  [Page 15]
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE WEAVES AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION
+
+In any woven fabric we distinguish two systems of threads, the _Warp or
+Chain_, running lengthways in the cloth, and the _Filling or Weft_,
+crossing the former at right angles.
+
+This crossing or interlacing consists of every individual warp-thread being
+placed alternately under and over one or more threads of the filling
+system. The arrangement of this interlacing is technically called the
+_Weave_, and the variety in which the points of crossing can be distributed
+is practically endless.
+
+It is principally the weave that lends to a fabric its character,
+influenced, of course, by the material used, the size and tension of the
+threads and the combination of the colors.
+
+The weaves are divided into three main classes: _the Foundation weaves_. In
+the silk business they are known under the following names:
+
+  #The Taffeta Weave,
+  The Serge Weave,
+  The Satin Weave.#
+
+In the foundation weaves each thread effects only one crossing in one
+repeat of the weave, and the points of interlacing occur in a given
+rotation. A repeat in the foundation weaves comprises the same number of
+warp-threads as of _picks_ or filling threads, and if this number is 8, for
+                                                                  [Page 16]
+instance, the weave is called an 8-shaft or an 8-harness weave. In marking
+out a weave, the warp-threads are represented by vertical lines, the
+filling by horizontal ones, or in each case by the space between these
+lines. The places where a warp-thread lies over the filling are marked with
+paint or simply with a cross. In a similar manner we mark out the _chain
+draft_, which indicates the rotation in which the shafts are raised.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 17]
+THE TAFFETA WEAVE
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 16]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 17]
+
+                                                                  [Page 18]
+This is the simplest and oldest method of interlacing. The odd numbers of
+warp-threads cross the even numbers after every pick; hence of two
+warp-threads one will always go over the first pick and under the second,
+and the other end under the first and over the second pick. Taffeta cloth,
+therefore, has the same appearance on both sides, and in cotton and wool
+weaving this weave is technically--and properly indeed--called the _Plain
+Weave_. It has the smallest repeat, 2 warp-threads and 2 picks, and the
+exchanging of warp and filling is the most frequent possible. The cloth
+thus produced is firmer and stronger than that obtained with any other
+weave.
+
+Fig. 16 is a taffeta on 4 shafts straight draw, the draft executed in the
+manner which we have already mentioned in explaining the drawing-in drafts.
+
+Fig. 17 on common designing paper, illustrates a taffeta made on 8-harness,
+skip draw.
+
+Be it mentioned that the drawing-in draft and the chain draft will be added
+throughout this work, the former over the weave to correspond with the
+respective warp-threads, the latter to the right of the drawing-in draft.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 19]
+GROS DE TOURS WEAVES
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 18]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 19]
+
+In this weave the working of the warp is the same as in taffeta, except
+that instead of one pick, two or more are inserted in the same shed. It is
+mostly used in selvedges, where it serves to give more firmness to the edge
+of an otherwise loosely woven cloth, and prevents the weaving ahead of the
+edge in a tight weave. Gros de Tours is sometimes used, especially when
+cotton or wool filling is employed, with a view to lay two picks nicely
+side by side, whereas a thread entered two ply with the taffeta weave will
+always receive some twist, which may disturb the perfect evenness of the
+fabric.
+
+Fig. 18 is a Gros de Tours with two picks on four harness straight through.
+
+Fig. 19 illustrates this weave with three picks drawn end and end on two
+sections of four shafts each.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 20]
+SERGE or TWILL WEAVES
+
+While the taffeta weave produces either an entirely smooth fabric, or one
+with a distinct transverse rib as in gros-grain, the twill weave forms
+diagonal lines on the cloth, running either from left to right or from
+right to left.
+
+To make a twill, not less than three ends and three picks are required, of
+which each thread floats over two of the other system and interlaces with
+the third. The rotation of the interlacing is always consecutive, that is
+it moves with each succeeding pick one thread to the right (or to the left
+if the lines are to run in that direction). If warp and filling have the
+same texture, that is the same number of threads in a given space, the
+twill lines will form an angle of 45°; if the warp stands closer than the
+filling, the incline will be steeper, and in the opposite case the angle
+will approach more the horizontal.
+
+The weaves can be expressed in numbers, for instance: the 3-end twill warp
+effect would be marked 2-1, which indicates that each warp-thread goes over
+two and under one pick.
+
+Twill weaves are called _evensided_ when the arrangement of "warp up" and
+"filling up" are evenly balanced, and _unevensided_ if either warp or
+filling predominate on the face of the fabric; the latter class is
+therefore subdivided in _Warp effects_ and _Filling effects_.
+
+In the following a number of serge weaves are illustrated, the French
+designations being added in some cases, as they are still extensively used
+in the trade.
+
+                                                                  [Page 21]
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+FILLING EFFECTS
+
+_Satin de Lyon,_ 2-1.
+
+On 6 harness straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 20]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Levantine,_ 3-1<h/5>
+
+On 8 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 21]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 22]
+_Polonaise,_ 5-1
+
+On 12 harness skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 22]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Serge grosse côte,_ 7-1
+
+On 8 shafts straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 23]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 23]
+_Serge remaine,_ 6-2
+
+On 8 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 24]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Serge,_ 5-1, 1-1.
+
+On 8 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 25]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 24]
+_Serge,_ 4-2, 1-1, 1-1.
+
+On 10 harness straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 26]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Serge,_ 7-1, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1.
+
+On 16 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 27]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 25]
+WARP EFFECTS
+
+_Levantine,_ 3-1.
+
+On 4 shafts straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 28]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Serge,_ 5-1, 1-1.
+
+On 8 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 29]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 26]
+EVENSIDED TWILLS
+
+_Surah,_ 2-2
+
+On 4 shafts straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 30]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Croise,_ 3-3, 2-2, 1-1.
+
+On 12 shafts straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 31]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 27]
+_Serge,_ 7-7, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1
+
+On 20 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 32]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+POINTED TWILLS
+
+in the direction of the filling and also of the warp.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 33]
+
+On 4 shafts point draw, weave 3-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 28]
+[Illustration: Fig. 34]
+
+    On 6 shafts point draw, drawn as follows:
+
+    Eighteen ends from back to front and 4 ends from front to rear, weave
+    5-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 35]
+
+On 8 shafts pointed draw, weave 5-1, 1-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 29]
+[Illustration: Fig. 36]
+
+On 10 shafts, with weave 3-3, drawn as follows:
+
+  7 threads from back to front.
+  3    "      "  front to rear.
+  6    "      "  back to front.
+  2    "      "  front to rear.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 37]
+
+On 6 shafts straight draw, pointed weave 5-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 30]
+[Illustration: Fig. 38]
+
+On 8 shafts straight through, pointed weave 5-1, 1-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 39]
+
+_Broken pointed twill_, on 8 harness.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 31]
+[Illustration: Fig. 40]
+
+On 6 shafts point draw, pointed weave 5-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 41]
+
+On 8 shafts point draw, pointed weave 5-1, 1-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 32]
+[Illustration: Fig. 42]
+
+_Fancy twill_, on 16 shafts straight draw.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SATIN WEAVES
+
+The distinct diagonal lines which characterize the class of weaves
+explained in the previous chapter are absent in the satin weaves; and while
+the interlacing in the former is done in a strictly consecutive order, we
+endeavor to scatter the points of stitching in the latter as much as
+possible, in order to create an entirely smooth and brilliant surface on
+                                                                  [Page 33]
+the cloth.
+
+In all satins the number of ends in a repeat is the same in warp and
+filling.
+
+The lowest repeat of a regular satin comprises five threads of each system,
+and the interlacing is done in the following order:
+
+  The 1st pick with the 1st warp-thread
+   "  2d   "       "    3d      "
+   "  3d   "       "    5th     "
+   "  4th  "       "    2d      "
+   "  5th  "       "    4th     "
+
+Fig. 43 illustrates this weave. An examination of the rotation, as given
+above, will show that every warp-thread intersects two picks apart from its
+neighbor. The number "2" is in this case what is technically known as the
+_counter_, that is the number which indicates the points of interlacing by
+adding it to number 1 and continuing so until all the warp-threads are
+taken up.
+
+The following is the rule to find the counter for any regular satin:
+
+Divide the number of harness into two parts, which must neither be equal
+nor have a common divisor. Any of these two numbers can be used for
+counting off, but usually the smaller one is taken. According to this rule
+we obtain a regular satin
+
+  On  5 harness with counter 2
+   "  7    "          "      2 or 3
+   "  8    "          "      3
+   "  9    "          "      2 or 4
+   " 10    "          "      3
+   " 11    "          "      2, 3, 4 or 5
+   " 12    "          "      5
+   " 13    "          "      2, 3, 4, 5 or 6
+   " 14    "          "      3 or 5
+   " 15    "          "      2, 4 or 7
+   " 16    "          "      3, 5 or 7.
+
+                                                                  [Page 34]
+The 4 harness broken twill, Fig. 53, is sometimes classed among the satins.
+
+The 6 harness satin, Fig. 54, is irregular; as a counter cannot be derived
+from number 6 by the given rule. The rotation generally used is 1, 3, 6, 4,
+2, 5.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Regular Satins
+
+_5 harness Satin, "Satin de Chine."_
+
+Straight draw, counter 2.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 43]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_7 harness Satin, "Satin Merveilleux."_
+
+Skip draw, counter 2.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 44]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 35]
+_7 harness satin_
+
+Straight draw, counter 3.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 45]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_8 harness satin "Duchese"_
+
+Skip draw, counter 3.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 46]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 36]
+_9 harness satin_
+
+Straight draw, counter 4.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 47]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_10 harness satin_
+
+Straight draw, counter 3.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 48]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 37]
+_11 harness satin_
+
+Skip draw, counter 5.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 49]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_12 harness satin_
+
+Skip draw, counter 5.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 50]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 38]
+_16 harness satin_
+
+On 2 sections of 8 shafts each, drawn end and end, counter 7.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 51]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 39]
+_8 harness satin, warp effect._
+
+Straight draw, counter 3.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 52]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+IRREGULAR SATINS
+
+_Satin Turc._
+
+On 4 shafts straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 53]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 40]
+_Satin à la Reine_
+
+On 6 shafts straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 54]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 41]
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+DERIVATIVE WEAVES
+
+#1. From the Taffeta#
+
+_Royale_ is a modification of the regular Gros de Tours, inasmuch as the
+rib line, which in the latter runs straight across the cloth, is broken off
+after a given number of warp-threads. These groups, which may comprise 8,
+12 or more threads, will interlace each one pick higher than the preceding
+one.
+
+_Royale of 8 ends_
+
+On 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 55]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Velours Ottoman or Faille française._
+
+In order to obtain a broader rib than that of Gros de Tours, and at the
+same time to lend firmness to the fabric, we add to the ground warp, which
+forms the ribs, another or binder warp, which works continually taffeta,
+                                                                  [Page 42]
+while the ground warp changes only every 3 or 4 picks for the rib.
+
+_Faille française._
+
+  4 ends of ground on the first section of 8 shafts, skip draw.
+  1   "     binder    "   second    "      2   "
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 56]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Velours Ottoman without a Binder-warp._
+
+In this weave, of which Fig. 57 illustrates a specimen, comprising 8
+warp-threads and 32 picks in a repeat, the rib contains 4 picks. Of the 8
+warp-threads, 3 float over and 3 under the rib, while the 2 others bind
+taffeta, which latter function is executed by 2 other threads in the next
+rib.
+
+                                                                  [Page 43]
+[Illustration: Fig. 57]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+2. From the Twills
+
+One variety is obtained by interlacing the warp-threads alternately one or
+more picks behind, and then a number of picks ahead of their respective
+neighbors; so the complete arrangement of the points of binding in a repeat
+will generally form two parallel diagonal lines. This will cause the twill
+lines to appear less pronounced than is the case in the regular twill, and
+the character of the fabric approaches more that of the satin.
+
+                                                                  [Page 44]
+[Illustration: Fig. 58]
+
+_Satin Sergé._
+
+On 8 shafts, straight draw.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 59]
+
+_Côte Satinée._
+
+On 16 harness, skip draw.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Rhadzimir-Surah 2-2._ After a certain number of picks of the regular surah
+all the warp-threads are crossed in two's thereby causing a sort of a rib
+or cut line across the fabric.
+
+                                                                  [Page 45]
+_Rhadzimir of 4 picks._
+
+On 8 shafts, straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 60]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Rhadzimir of 6 picks._
+
+On 8 shafts, straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 61]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 46]
+3. From the Satin Weave
+
+_Satin Soleil_ shows a satin-like surface with a cross line appearance.
+Fig. 62 illustrates it as made on 8 shafts, straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 62]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Satin Grec_ is a 12-harness satin, in which a taffeta point is added to
+each place of interlacing, thus giving the cloth a much firmer hand. Fig.
+63 represents this weave on 12 shafts, skip draw.
+
+                                                                  [Page 47]
+[Illustration: Fig. 63]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Peau de Soie._ An 8-shaft satin with one point added on the right or left
+to the original spots, giving the fabric a somewhat grainy appearence. Fig.
+64 represents a peau de soie on 8 shafts, straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 64]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 48]
+_Fleur de Soie._ The face is a satin de Lyon (2-1 twill), with a backing
+interlaced on the 12-shaft satin principle, Fig. 65, on 12 shafts, skip
+draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 65]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 49]
+CANNELE and REPP WEAVES
+
+are in their construction related to the taffeta, and are used mostly in
+the form of stripes as an additional ornament to a fabric. The threads
+going into the composition of these effects exchange continually from
+taffeta interlacing to floating over a certain number of threads, and must
+be introduced either in warp or filling close enough to make the floats
+cover up the taffeta work entirely, and thus enable the material used to
+show up with the full brilliancy it possesses.
+
+Cannele effects can be produced in two distinct ways. One is to let every
+individual thread work alternately taffeta and float, while in the other
+method one thread weaves always taffeta, and a second thread is used for
+the cannele exclusively. These latter threads must come from a separate
+warp, which is introduced to embellish the ground or taffeta part of the
+fabric.
+
+The floating threads can either stitch all on one pick and so form a
+continuous cut line, or be divided in groups, of which one will bind in the
+middle of the floats of the other group. The following designs show both
+the face and backside of the respective weaves:
+
+                                                                  [Page 50]
+_Alternating Cannele_ of 6 picks.
+
+On 4 shafts, straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 66]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Canelle_ (2 beams). Over 3 picks, interlacing on every fourth pick, drawn
+end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 67]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 51]
+_Cannele_ over 5 picks, binding on the sixth, but every second thread
+advanced 3 picks (to the middle of the float of the first thread), drawn
+end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 68]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 52]
+_Cannele_ arranged in groups of 8 threads, floating over 6 picks and
+binding on the seventh and eighth, drawn on 2 sections, with 4 shafts in
+first and 2 in second section.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 69]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Repp_ on 8 shafts straight through. Rotation of filling. 1 pick taffeta, 1
+pick float (rib).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 70]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 53]
+_Repp_ of 8 threads, on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 ends per section.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 71]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Repp_ of 5 threads, binding on the sixth; every second pick binds on the
+middle of the first pick. On 6 harness straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 72]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 54]
+_Repp_ in groups, floating over 6 ends and binding on the seventh and
+eighth on 8 shafts straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 73]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 55]
+DOUBLE FACED FABRICS
+
+In this class we find either two systems of warp or of filling so combined
+that only one will be visible on either side. The color on one side is
+generally different from the other, and so may the interlacing be of a
+different nature on face and back. In the latter case great care must be
+exercised not to allow the weave on one side to disturb the one on the
+other, and as a rule the points of interlacing of the first warp or filling
+system are placed as much as possible in the middle of the floats of the
+second. This will prevent either color or weave to be seen on the opposite
+side, as the floats of one side will naturally lay themselves over the
+binders of the other. The number of ends in a repeat of the two weaves must
+either be alike or one a multiple of the other.
+
+Warp Effects
+
+_Levantine_ on 8 shafts straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 74]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 56]
+_Serge_ 6-2 on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 75]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+8 _shaft satin_ on 2 sections of 8 harness each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 76]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 57]
+12 _shaft satin_ on 2 sections of 12 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 77]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Cannele_ of 8 picks on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 78]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 58]
+FILLING EFFECTS
+
+_Serge_ 5-1 on 6 harness straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 79]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+10 _harness satin_ on 10 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 80]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 59]
+_Repp_ on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 threads per section.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 81]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 60]
+PEKINS
+
+With this name we designate fabrics in which stripes of a different
+interlacing run in the direction of the warp. In combining these weaves it
+is advantageous to have them contrast distinctly, for instance, a short
+weave such as taffeta or Gros de Tours, with a longer and looser one such
+as satin, sergé or cannele, also changes from warp to filling effects. Care
+must be taken to arrange the joining of the two weaves so that the last
+thread of one weave will cross the first thread of the other. This will
+prevent the threads from either stripe to slide over into the other, and so
+make a clean cut line.
+
+#Pekin.# A stripe of
+
+   2 dents of 8 ends each, 8 shaft Satin, on 8 shafts straight draw.
+  12     "    2     "      Taffeta         " 4    "       "      "
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 82]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 61]
+#Pekin#. A stripe of
+
+  12 ends Cannele of 6 picks on 1st section of 4 shafts.
+  12   "   Repp   "  6 threads on 2d and 3d section of 2 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 83]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 62]
+#Pekin.# A stripe of
+
+  10 ends 5 leaf Satin on the 1st section of 5 shafts straight draw.
+   4   "  Taffeta        "    3d    "        2    "      "       "
+  18   "  Serge 3-1, 1-1 "    2d    "        6    "      "       "
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 84]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 63]
+BAYADÈRES
+
+While pekins are formed by warp stripes, bayadère shows us stripes of
+different weaves running in the direction of the filling. The rules given
+in the previous chapter as to the joining of the weaves will also apply
+here. The warp which was raised on the last pick of the weave must stay
+down wherever possible on the first pick of the following weave. The number
+of shafts employed must go up evenly in the repeat of each one of the
+weaves that go into the make up of the bayadère.
+
+#Bayadère#
+
+  A stripe of 24 picks Gros de Tours  }
+                                      }  on 8 shafts straight through.
+     "         8   "   8-shaft Satin, }
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 85]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 64]
+#Bayadère#
+
+  A stripe of 18 picks 6-shaft Satin  }
+      "        6   "   Serge 5-1,     } on 6 shafts, straight draw.
+      "        4   "   Taffeta,       }
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 86]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 65]
+CHECKS AND PLAIDS
+
+If pekin and bayadère stripes are combined, we obtain checked fabrics, and
+of these an endless variety and pleasing effects can be produced with the
+aid of suitable color combinations.
+
+#Check#
+
+  of 16 threads and 12 picks of the 4 end broken twill,
+  and 16   "     "  12   "   "  Royale of 8 threads,
+          drawn on 4 sections of 4 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 87]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 66]
+#Check#
+
+  of 20 threads and 16 picks of 8-shaft Satin,
+  "  20    "     "  16   "   "  Taffeta,
+                     4   "   "  Surah 3-1,
+  drawn on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 88]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 67]
+DECOMPOSITION
+
+Under the name of _Disposition_ we comprise all those points and details
+which we must ascertain before we can proceed with the construction of a
+fabric. They are:
+
+  1. #The weave.#
+
+  2. #Length and width of the cloth.#
+
+  3. #The stock and the dyeing thereof.#
+
+  4. #Reed calculation# (number of dents and ends per inch and total number
+      of dents required).
+
+  5. #Drawing-in the warp in harness and reed.#
+
+  6. #Texture and arrangement of warp# (warping ticket)
+
+  7. #Arrangement of harness.#
+
+  8. #Reduction of filling.#
+
+  9. #Calculation of warp and filling.#
+
+  10. #Finishing.#
+
+  11. #Calculation of cost.#
+
+                                                                  [Page 68]
+1. THE WEAVE
+
+If a given sample is to be reproduced or imitated, it must be analyzed, and
+the following hints will greatly facilitate this operation to the beginner.
+
+Cut the sample straight on two sides, and draw out a number of warp and
+filling threads until there is a small fringe of perhaps ¼ of an inch. This
+will allow a thread to be raised a little for examination, without danger
+of its falling out of the fabric. In most cases it is easier to dissect the
+filling side, that is, the interlacing of each warp-thread in the threads
+of the filling system. With the help of the microscope or counting glass we
+can easily determine over and under how many picks that thread passes and
+the points of interlacing are accordingly marked on designing paper. This
+being done for at least the length of a repeat warpways, we take it out and
+examine the following thread, and so on until the repeat filling-ways is
+complete. It is advisable to ascertain how many picks ahead or back of the
+first examined thread the next following one binds before taking the former
+out.
+
+A knowledge of the construction of weaves as explained in the foregoing
+chapters will enable us to determine the weave of a simple pattern by
+merely raising a warp-thread with a needle on any point of interlacing and
+counting off how many picks apart from this place it makes an impression.
+
+2. LENGTH AND WIDTH OF THE FABRIC
+
+To the length and width which the finished product is to have, we must add
+a certain allowance for shrinkage and _taking up_ of warp during weaving.
+It may differ from one to ten per cent., according to the texture and weave
+of the fabric, and can be ascertained with sufficient accuracy by
+stretching out and measuring a thread of warp and filling and comparing
+their length with the respective measurements of the sample to be
+reproduced.
+
+                                                                  [Page 69]
+3. THE STOCK AND ITS DYE
+
+Under this heading we must give the particulars as to nature, _twist_,
+_quality_ and _size_ of the silk, and the directions for the dyeing,
+whether _bright_ or _souple_, and in what colors, also whether to be
+weighted or not.
+
+The size is generally ascertained (in practical work) by comparing it with
+other silk of which the exact count is known. Another method is to count
+the number of cocoon threads which a thread of the sample contains, adding
+to that 1/3 or ¼, according to the quality of the silk; the result will be
+the count in deniers. To obtain it in drams, divide the latter number by
+17,3 as 1 dram is equal to 17,3 deniers.
+
+Suppose we find 20 cocoon ends in a thread of silk: add 1/3, and we have
+26-2/3 deniers, which, divided by 17,3 make 1,54 drams.
+
+As silk is always more or less uneven, it is safer to count the cocoon
+fibers of several threads and to take average thereof.
+
+It requires the experience of years to judge with any degree of certainty
+as to the origin and quality of silk, whether it be "classical," "extra,"
+"sublime," etc.
+
+There are machines wherewith to ascertain exactly the twist, that is, the
+number of turns the silk has received in the throwing process.
+
+In the dyeing we distinguish two great classes, of which the names
+themselves give a good definition. "Bright" has a brilliant luster, while
+"souple" has more of a dull, subdued appearance. To find out whether the
+silk has been weighted in the dyeing process, we may compare it with other
+silk of which the exact conditions are known, or we may burn a small
+quantity of it. Unweighted silk does not burn readily and leaves a residue
+of white ashes, while heavy weighted silk burns lively, leaving black,
+charry ashes.
+
+                                                                  [Page 70]
+4. REED CALCULATION
+
+We count the number of repeats of the weave in a given space, generally ¼
+or ½ inch, and multiply this with the number of threads one repeat
+contains, which gives us the reduction of the warp.
+
+Suppose we had a taffeta, which, as we know, has only 2 ends to a repeat,
+and counted 30 interlacings per ¼ inch on one pick; we would have 60
+threads per ¼ inch or 240 per one inch. In this case the reed may be 80 by
+3 or 60 by 4.
+
+Another instance: In an 8-shaft satin we count 10 warp-threads, which bind
+on the same pick in ¼ inch; this, multiplied by 8, equals 80 ends per ¼, or
+320 per one inch; the reed will be an 80 with 4 in a dent or a 64 by 5.
+
+In short, the number of the reed is found by dividing the number of
+warp-threads that are to go in one dent, in the number of ends per inch.
+Sometimes, the reed marks are clearly visible in a sample by holding the
+latter against the light. Silk fabrics move with very few exceptions within
+the limits of 50 and 90 dents per inch.
+
+To learn the full number of dents required for the width of the cloth,
+simply multiply the dents per one inch with the width, adding a certain
+allowance for shrinkage. The edges, of course, must also be taken in
+consideration, and very often the dents that are taken up by the latter are
+used to counter-balance that shrinkage.
+
+5. DRAWING-IN THE WARP IN HARNESS AND REED
+
+Here we must specify the number of dents that contain the same number of
+ends, and whether the latter are single or double, also the number of
+shafts and the method of drawing-in.
+
+                                                                  [Page 71]
+6. WARPING TICKET
+
+To make out the warping ticket, we need to ascertain the total number of
+ends, whether leased single or double, and the arrangement of the colors.
+
+7. HARNESS ARRANGEMENT
+
+This is governed by the number of ends to be drawn in and the necessary
+shafts. If we have, for instance, 100 threads per inch to be drawn on 4
+shafts, we must give each shaft 25 heddles per inch. There are generally
+between 25 and 45 heddles per inch on one shaft.
+
+8. REDUCTION OF THE FILLING
+
+Here we state the number of picks per inch, give directions as to doubling,
+if such is necessary, and if more than one color or shuttle is used, the
+rotation thereof.
+
+9. CALCULATION OF WARP AND FILLING
+
+The system adopted in this country for specifying the size of silk is based
+on the weight in drams (avoirdupois) of a skein containing 1000 yards. A
+skein, thus weighing 5 drams, is technically called 5-dram silk. The number
+of yards of 1-dram silk to a pound must accordingly be 256000. The formulas
+for figuring the amount of silk required for a piece of cloth are as
+follows:
+
+Warp Calculation
+
+  _Multiply_:    Number of ends×length×count
+              -----------------------------
+  _Divide by_:       1000 yards×256 drams
+
+                                                                  [Page 72]
+Filling Calculation
+
+  _Multiply:_     Picks×xply×width×length of piece×count
+                 --------------------------------------  =  lbs.
+  _Divide by:_                1000 yards×256 drams
+
+  The result in both cases will be in pounds.
+
+The system of grading the silk which is in vogue in Europe, and which is
+employed by a number of mills on this side, is as follows:
+
+     1 skein of 500 meters, weighing 0,05  grams = 1 denier international
+  or 1    "     476   "        "     0,053   "   = 1    "   Turin system
+  or 1    "     476   "        "     0,051   "   = 1    "   Milan    "
+
+The warp calculation, taking the international denier, would run:
+
+                      ends in warp×length×denier×0,05 gram
+                     --------------------------------------
+    _divided by:_          500 meters
+
+  for the filling:    Picks per meter×xply×width×denier×0,05 gram
+                     ---------------------------------------------
+    _divided by:_             500 meters
+
+  Result in metric weight, kilograms and grams.
+
+10. FINISHING
+
+Give directions as to the process of finishing to which the goods are to be
+subjected, whether to be pressed, calendered, sized, moiréd, etc.
+
+11. CALCULATION OF COST
+
+If all the foregoing conditions are ascertained, and a sample or a piece of
+the fabric executed, it remains to the manufacturer to determine the exact
+figure at which he can produce the article. That this must be done with
+great accuracy is naturally of the utmost importance, and the calculator
+                                                                  [Page 73]
+must know in the first place the raw stock prices, and also be acquainted
+with the details of the manufacturing process and the rates of wages paid
+therein. As a rule, the manufacturer establishes a scale of prices covering
+all the items of labor cost, mill expenses, etc., and uses this as a basis
+for his calculations.
+
+A rule or formula for this operation cannot very well be given, as the
+methods vary in almost every establishment, each choosing the one best
+adapted to its ideas or dictates of circumstances and conditions.
+
+                                                                  [Page 75]
+DISPOSITION 1
+
+_Taffeta glacé_
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 89]
+
+                                                                  [Page 76]
+  #Length and Width#--One piece 100 yards long, 18¾ inches wide.
+
+  #Stock and Dye#--_Warp._--Ital. Organ., 24/26 deniers = 1,47 drams,
+                            brown, bright, 14/16 oz.
+                _Filling._--Japan Tram, 28/30 deniers = 1,65 drams,
+                            gold, bright 14/16 oz.
+
+  #Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch,   70 dents at 3 single ends.
+                       " 18¾ "    1313   "
+                                add 13   "   = 1% for shrinkage
+                                  ----
+                        Total     1326 dents.
+
+  #Drawing in#--1st edge,    9 dents at 3 double ends.
+                Ground,   1308   "   at 3 single   "
+                2d edge,     9   "   at 3 double   "
+           on 6 shafts, straight through.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--1st edge,   27 double ends, brown.
+                    Ground,   3924 single   "     "
+                    2d edge,    27 double   "     "
+                              ----
+                 Total        4032 single ends.
+              Length of warp 110 yards, including 10% for take up.
+
+  #Harness#--6 shafts, 3978 heddles per 19 inches.
+             1    "      35    "     "   1    "
+
+  #Reduction of Filling#--Per inch, 100/102 picks, 2 ends.
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs  =  4032 ends.
+                      1 end  =  110 yards.
+                 1000 yards  =  1,47 drams.
+                  256 drams  =  1 lb.
+                        100  =  104 (4% waste).
+
+         4032×110×1,47×104
+        -------------------  =  2,65 lbs., or 2 lbs. 10,4 oz.
+            1000×256×100
+
+                                                                  [Page 77]
+  #Filling Calculation#--? lbs.   = 100 yards
+                         1 yard   = 36 inches.
+                         1 inch   = 102 \ picks.
+                                      2 / ends.
+                         1 pick   = 19 inches.
+                        36 inches = 1 yard
+                      1000 yards  = 1,65 drams.
+                       256 drams  = 1 lb.
+                             100  = 108 (8% waste).
+
+               100×36×102×2×19×165×108
+              ------------------------- = 2,73 lbs., or 2 lbs. 11,7 ozs.
+                    36×1000×256×100
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 79]
+DISPOSITION 2
+
+_Surah 3-1_
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 90]
+
+                                                                  [Page 80]
+  #Length and Width#--1 piece 50 yards long, 23½ in. wide.
+
+  #Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._--Ital. Organ., 1,30 drams = 20/24 deniers,
+                               black, bright, 40/50% = 22/24 ozs.
+                   _Filling._--Cotton No. 120/2 black.
+
+  #Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch,     80 dents at 2 single ends.
+                       "  23½ inch, 1880   "
+                                  add 36   "   = 2% for shrinkage.
+                                        ----
+                       Total            1916 dents.
+
+  #Drawing-in#--1st edge,  8 dents, 2 double ends.
+                Ground, 1900   "    2 single  "
+                2d edge,   8   "    2 double  "
+                on 4 shafts, straight draw.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--1st edge,  16 double ends, black.
+                    Ground,  3800 single  "      "
+                    2d edge,   16 double  "      "
+                             ----
+            Total            3864 single ends.
+               Warp 54 yards long = 8% for take up.
+
+  #Harness#--4 shafts, 3832 heddles per 24 inches.
+             1   "       40    "     "   1   "
+
+  #Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 120 picks, 1 end.
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 4264 ends.
+                       1 end = 54 yards.
+                  1000 yards = 1,30 drams.
+                   256 drams = 1 lb.
+                         100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+		 3864×54×1,30×104
+                ------------------ = 1,10 lbs., or 1 lb. 1,06 oz.
+                    1000×256×100
+
+                                                                  [Page 81]
+  #Filling Calculation#-?lbs. = 50 yards.
+                       1 yard = 36 inches.
+                       1 inch = 120 picks.
+                       1 pick = 24 inches.
+                    36 inches = 1 yard
+                    840 yards = 1 skein.
+        (No. 120/2) 60 skeins = 1 lb.
+                          100 = 110 (10% waste).
+
+                  50×36×120×24×110
+                 ------------------ = 3.14 lbs., or 3 lbs. 2.24 ozs.
+                    36×840×60×100
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 83]
+#DISPOSITION 3#
+
+_Satin Duchesse._
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 91]
+
+                                                                  [Page 84]
+  #Length and Width#--One warp 300 yards long, 10 pieces of 60 yards
+      23 inches wide, 2 pieces in width, with one cut edge.
+
+  #Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._-- Ital. Organ., 1-55/100 drams, black,
+                                bright, 20/22 oz.
+                   _Filling._-- Jap. Tram., 1-8/10 and 2-7/10
+                                drams, black, souple, 40/44 oz.
+
+    We should use for this fabric 1 end filling, 5-thread, 4-5/10 drams,
+    but as we have none of this size on hand, we take: 1 end, 2 thread,
+    1-8/10 drams, and 1 end, 3 thread, 2-7/10 drams.
+
+  #Reed Calculation#--1 inch, 66 dents, 4 single ends.
+                     46 "   3036  "
+                              54  " (1¾% shrinkage).
+                            ----
+                 Total ...  3090 dents.
+
+  #Drawing-in#--       {
+             1st edge, {   2 dents, 6×2, black.
+                       {  13   "    4×2, white.
+                Ground, 1514   "    4×1, black.
+
+		       {   2   "    6×2    "
+             Cut Edge  {   1   "    2×4,   "
+                       {   3   "    empty.
+                       {   1   "    2×4,   "
+
+                Ground, 1514   "    4×1, black.
+
+	     2d edge, {    2   "    6×2, black.
+                      {   13   "    4×2, white.
+
+      Satin on 8 shafts, straight draw.
+      Cross-thread for split edge on 3 shafts, see design.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--       Edge, {     12/2 black. }
+                                 {     52/2 white. }
+                           Ground,   6056/1 black. } twice over.
+                           Edge, {     52/2 white. }
+                                 {     12/2 black. }
+
+                           12208 ends black, { 318 yards long.
+                             416  "   white, { = 6% shrinkage.
+
+                   2/4 black for ground thread, 300 yards long.
+                   2/4   "    " whip       "    360   "     "
+                 each one on a separate little roll.
+
+                                                                  [Page 85]
+  #Harness#--8 shafts, 12368 heddles, 47 in
+             1    "       33    "      1  "
+     for the split edge 3 shafts, of which one has only half a heddle.
+
+  #Filling#--Per 1 in., 80 picks, 2 ends (as described before).
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 12224 ends, black (416 white).
+                       1 end = 318 yards.
+                 1,000 yards = 1,55 drams.
+                   256 drams = 1 lb.
+                         100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+       (416)  12224×318×1.55×104
+             -------------------- = 24,477 lbs. org. black.
+                 1000×256×100     =  0,833  "    "   white.
+
+  #Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 300 yards.
+                         1 yard = 36 inches.
+                         1 inch = 80 picks.
+                         1 pick = 47 inches.
+                      36 inches = 1 yard.
+                     1000 yards = 4,5 drams.
+                      256 drams = 1 lb.
+                            100 = 108 (8% waste).
+
+               300×36×80×47×4,5×108
+              ---------------------- = 21,414 lbs.
+                  36×1000×256×100
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 87]
+DISPOSITION 4
+
+_Armure Satinée_
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 92]
+
+                                                                  [Page 88]
+
+  #Length and Width#--One piece 60 yards long, 19 in. wide.
+
+  #Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._--Jap. Organ., 1,48 drams, black, bright,
+                               18/20 oz.
+                   _Filling._--3 threads Jap. Tram., 2,95 drams,
+                               black, bright, 24/26 oz.
+
+  #Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch,  60 dents×4 single ends.
+                       " 19   "  1140   "
+                                   32   " (3% for shrinkage).
+                                 ----
+                    Total . . .  1172 dents.
+
+  #Drawing-in#--1st edge, 12 dents × 4 double.
+                Ground, 1148   "   × 4 single.
+                2d edge,  12   "   × 4 double.
+                     on 12 shafts, straight through,
+                   or on 6 shafts, as design indicates.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--1st edge, 48/2 black.
+                    Ground, 4592/1   "
+                    2d edge,  48/2   "
+                              ------
+                 Total . . . 4784 single ends 64 yards long.
+                                        =6½% for take up.
+
+  #Harness#--6 shafts, 4688 heddles per 19½ inches.
+             1   "       40   "      "   1       "
+
+  #Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 104 picks, 2 ends.
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 4784 ends.
+                       1 end = 64 yards.
+                  1000 yards = 1,48 drams.
+                   256 drams = 1 lb.
+                         100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+           4784×64×1,48×104
+          ------------------ = 1,84 lbs., or 1 lb. 13,44 ozs.
+             1000×256×100
+
+                                                                  [Page 89]
+  #Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 60 yards.
+                         1 yard = 36 inches.
+                         1 inch = 104 } picks.
+                                    2 } ends.
+                         1 pick = 19½ inches.
+                      36 inches = 1 yard.
+                     1000 yards = 2,95 drams.
+                      256 drams = 1 lb.
+                            100 = 108 (8% waste).
+
+     60×36×104×2×19,5×2,95×108
+    --------------------------- = 3,03 lbs., or 3 lbs. 0,48 ozs.
+          36×1000×256×100
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 91]
+DISPOSITION 5
+
+_Surface Printed Armure._
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 93]
+
+                                                                  [Page 92]
+  #Length and Width#--One piece 50 yards long, 18½ in. wide.
+
+  #Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._--Ital. Organ., 1,50 drams, 24/28 deniers,
+                               white bright, pure dye.
+
+                   _Filling._--5 thread Ital. Tram., 4 drams, 13/14
+                               deniers, white, bright, pure dye.
+
+  #Reed Calculation#--Per 1    inch,  52 dents, 2×2.
+                       " 18½ "    962  "
+                                   20  "  (2% shrinkage).
+                                 ----
+                      Total . . . 982 dents.
+
+  #Drawing-in#--1st edge,   7 dents, 4×2 gros de Tours.
+                  Ground, 968   "    2×2 armure
+                 2d edge,   7   "    4×2 gros de Tours.
+        Armure ground on 12 shafts, straight draw.
+        Gros de Tours, edges on 4 shafts.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--Ground warp, 54 yards.
+                   1936/2 white.
+                    Gros de Tours edges, 55 yards.
+                   2×28/2 white, on separate rolls.
+              Total . . . 3984 single ends.
+
+  #Harness#--12 shafts, 1936 heddles, per 18½ inches.
+              1   "      8-2/3  "      "   1    "
+4 Shafts gros de Tours edges, with 28 heddles on each side.
+
+  #Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 96 picks, 1 end.
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 3984 ends.
+                      1 end  = 54  yards.
+                  1000 yards = 1,50 drams.
+                   256 drams = 1 lb.
+                         100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+           3984×54×1,50×104
+          ------------------ = 1,31 lbs., or 1 lb. 4,96 ozs.
+             1000×256×100
+
+                                                                  [Page 93]
+  #Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 50 yards.
+                         1 yard = 36 inches.
+                         1 inch = 96 picks.
+                         1 pick = 19 inches.
+                      36 inches = 1 yard.
+                     1000 yards = 4 drams.
+                      256 drams = 1 lb.
+                            100 = 108 (8% waste).
+
+             50×36×96×19×4×108
+            ------------------- = 1,54 lbs., or 1 lb. 8,64 ozs.
+              36×1000×256×100
+
+After weaving, the small flower effects have to be printed on the cloth.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 95]
+DISPOSITION 6
+
+_Pekin_: 8 shaft satin and repp.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 34]
+
+                                                                  [Page 96]
+  #Length and Width#--1 piece 100 yards long, 20¼ in. wide.
+
+                              { Ital. Organ., 1-35/100 drams, black,
+                              {   bright, 20/22 oz.
+  #Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._ { Ital. Organ., 1-15/100 drams, sky,
+                              {   bright, pure dye
+                              { Cotton No. 100/2, scarlet.
+
+                   _Filling._--3 threads, Jap. Tram., 2-8/10 drams,
+                               scarlet, bright, 14/16 oz.
+
+                                            {6×1, black satin
+  #Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch, 68 dents, {6×2, colored "
+                                            {2×1,    "    repp.
+                       " 20¼  " 1377  "
+                                  23  " (1½% for shrinkage).
+                                ----
+                       Total    1400 dents.
+
+  #Drawing-in#--1st edge,  7 dents, 6×2 satin.         }
+                  Ground, 34   "    6×1   "            }
+                           2   "    6×2   "            }
+                          10   "    6×1   "    } twice }
+                           2   "    2×1 repp.  } over. }
+                          10   "    6×1 satin.         }
+                           2   "    6×2   "            }
+                          39   "    6×1   "            }
+                           5   "    2×1 repp.  } twice }
+                           4   "    6×1 satin. } over. } 7 times
+                           5   "    2×1 repp.          } over.
+                          15   "    6×1 satin.         }
+                           2   "    2×1 repp.          }
+                          15   "    6×1 satin.         }
+                           5   "    2×1 repp.  } twice }
+                           4   "    6×1 satin. } over. }
+                           5   "    2×1 repp.          }
+                           5   "    6×1 satin.         }
+                          28   "    6×1   "            }
+                 2d edge,  7   "    6×2   "            }
+                 Satin on 1st section of 8 shaft skip draw.
+                 Binder " 2nd    "     " 2   "
+                 Repp   " 3d     "     " 2   "
+
+                                                                  [Page 97]
+On each side of every repp stripe two ends of the satin warp must be
+entered on the 2 binder shafts (2d section), to prevent the ends of the
+satin to slide over into the repp stripes.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--I. _Beam satin_, 106 yards.
+    1st edge, 42/2 black.
+         Ground, 204/1  "     }
+                  12/2 sky.   }
+                 180/1 black. }
+                  12/2 sky.   }
+                 234/1 black. }
+                  48/2 sky.   } 7 times over.
+                 180/1 black. }
+                  48/2 sky.   }
+                  30/1 black. }
+                 168/1  "     }
+         2d edge, 42/2  "     }
+
+        6132 single ends black.
+        1680   "     "   sky.
+
+         II. _Beam repp_, 110 yards.
+                   4/1 scarlet. }
+                   4/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     } 7 times over.
+                   4/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     }
+
+            504 single ends scarlet cotton
+
+This warp has to be beamed in stripes. Make out a diagram for the warper
+the same as shown in Fig. 95.
+
+                                                                  [Page 98]
+[Illustration: Fig. 95]
+
+#Harness#--Fig. 95 shows how to make a diagram of a harness for a Pekin.
+The heddles are marked per one shaft. As the repp stripes are only small
+ones, we use for the satin a full harness, that is, one without open spaces
+for the repp stripe. All together we have in the satin warp 6888 single and
+double ends to draw in; of these 252 ends are used for binders, on both
+sides of the repp stripes. Thus remain for
+
+    8 shafts, 6636 heddles per 20½ inches
+    1   "       40    "     "   1    "
+
+  #Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 144 picks, 1 end.
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 6132 ends (1680 ends sky).
+                       1 end = 106 yards.
+                  1000 yards = 1,35 drams (sky 1,15 drams).
+                   256 drams = 1 lb.
+                         100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+  6132×106×1,35×104
+ ------------------- = 3,56 lbs. for black, or 3 lbs. 8,96 ozs.
+     1000×256×100
+
+  1680×106×1,15×104
+ ------------------- = 0,83 lbs. for sky, or 0 lbs. 13,28 ozs.
+      1000×256×100
+
+                                                                  [Page 99]
+
+                         ? lbs. = 504 ends.
+                          1 end = 110 yards.
+                      840 yards = 1 skein.
+          (No. 100/2) 50 skeins = 1 lb.
+                            100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+    504×110×104
+   ------------- = 1,37 lbs. scarlet cotton, or 1 lb. 5,92 ozs.
+    840×50×100
+
+  #Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 100 yards.
+                         1 yard = 36 inches.
+                         1 inch = 144 picks.
+                         1 pick = 21 inches.
+                      36 inches = 1 yard.
+                     1000 yards = 2,8 drams.
+                      256 drams = 1 lb.
+                            100 = 108 (8% waste).
+
+   100×36×144×21×2,8×108
+  ----------------------- = 3,57 lbs., or 3 lbs. 9,12 ozs.
+     36×1000×256×100
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                 [Page 100]
+JACQUARD WEAVES
+
+Jacquard weaves usually show on a plain ground figure or flower effects. To
+obtain these effects the ground is made of one weave, say taffeta, while
+the figures or flowers are produced in another weave, say satin.
+
+We enter the warp through a jacquard harness, and according to the repeat
+use a 200, 400, 600, 900, 1200, etc., hook jacquard machine, which means
+200, 400, 600, 900 and 1200 ends per repeat.
+
+With a 600-hook machine a larger repeat can be produced than with a
+499-hook machine. For instance, if we want to make a cloth the figures of
+which are to be two inches apart, it is a two-inch repeat, and use the
+count of 50/4 or 200 ends per inch, we can use a 400-hook machine, 2 in. x
+200 ends. But we can make this cloth also on a 1200-hook machine, only the
+repeat must be designed three times. The advantage of using a 1200-hook
+machine with the count 50/4 is that 2, 3, 4, 6-inch repeats can be
+produced, while with a 400-hook machine, only a 2-inch repeat can be made.
+
+There is no end to all the different weaves and the possible flower and
+other pattern effects that can be made with the jacquard machine. For a
+jacquard weaving plant the designing is the most important factor.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BOX LOOM WEAVES INCLUDING CREPES
+
+Box looms are required for weaves such as bayadères, checks, plaids (see
+pages 63-65), bengalines, crêpes, etc., where two or more shuttles are
+needed to bring out the effect.
+
+For the crêpes (crêpe de chine, crêpe georgette) only two shuttles are
+needed, while plaids and other articles are made with more shuttles.
+
+To weave such articles the loom or the lay must be fitted with two or more
+shuttle boxes on one or both sides of the loom.
+
+                                                                 [Page 101]
+If a manufacturer decides to change plain looms to box looms or buy new box
+looms, it is wise to get 4 × 4 boxes, or four shuttle boxes on each side.
+
+With these looms about everything can be made that is called for in
+box-loom effects, and as styles change, it is wise to be prepared.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MANUFACTURING COSTS
+
+The calculator first ascertains for the warp: What silk will be used, the
+cost of the same, total number of ends in the warps for the amount of silk,
+cost of throwing, dyeing, winding, warping, twisting, entering, and
+weaving.
+
+Then the filling: Silk to be used, how much, cost of silk, cost of
+throwing, dyeing, winding, doubling, quilling.
+
+After this determine the cost of weaving, cloth picking, finishing, factory
+costs, and selling expenses.
+
+To-day most of the operations are paid by "piece work."
+
+The calculator must always take into consideration that poor raw silk or
+poor dyeing make production slow, increase the cost of labor, and also that
+more waste will be made.
+
+THROWING: Regular organ usually has 16 turns per inch in the first twist
+and 14 turns to the inch in the second or reverse twist. Tram receives only
+one twisting, about three turns to the inch.
+
+As the warp twisting-in is paid for at so much per hundred or thousand
+ends, no matter how short or long the warp is, it is a saving to make the
+warps as long as possible, especially in raw, black and staple colors.
+
+The calculator must not forget the cost of entering the first warp in a
+harness, also the reeding.
+
+Most mills figure the cost of harness and reed in the expense accounts. If
+plain and fancy goods are made an extra percentage should be figured for
+the latter.
+
+                                                                 [Page 102]
+EXPENSES are figured differently, as almost every manufacturer has his own
+system. If a mill makes only a few staple articles it is easy to put down
+the cost of expenses. Say the mill has a production of 500,000 yards per
+year, that the expense amounts to $35,000, the cost then is 7 cents per
+yard.
+
+Manufacturers making all kinds of goods sometimes figure the expenses in
+percentage, say, for plain goods, with a few picks, like gros-grain, peau
+de soie, etc., 10 per cent. per yard. Taffeta, satin, etc., having more
+picks, 12½ per cent. per yard, and fancy and jacquard goods, 15 per cent.
+per yard. In the expense account we include all charges except raw silk,
+throwing, dyeing and piece work.
+
+SELLING EXPENSES. Before a calculation is finished we must add the selling
+expenses to the cost, also take account of the trade discount. Small mills
+usually sell through a commission house, which pays all expenses and
+charges a certain commission. Many large firms have their own selling end,
+and some have their sales guaranteed by a commission house or a bank.
+
+                                                                 [Page 103]
+CALCULATIONS
+
+The prices marked in the following calculations are about as in "normal
+times." Absolutely correct piece work prices cannot be given as different
+localities have different prices.
+
+Calculations are usually made per 100 yards, 100-meter warps.
+
+Most goods gain from 3 to 7 per cent. in weaving. That is, if we make a
+warp of 300 meters for a satin and we obtain 315 yards of cloth, this gain
+should not be calculated, as usually there is no account taken of samples
+used in the selling department. But the loss in length should be figured
+and taken account of on goods with a heavy rib, such as moiré, faille, etc.
+
+DISP. 7--A 3 1/3-inch repeat can be obtained with a 600-hook jacquard
+machine, seven repeats in a width of 23 inches.
+
+DISP. 8--Taffeta weave, but the two cotton picks must go in one hole. This
+article can only be made with at least two shuttle boxes on each side. For
+warping use a single and double cross reed, heavy cotton, no knots must be
+tied.
+
+DISP. 10--This article must be warped with as much tension as possible and
+no knots should be tied in. Silk is to be delivered on bobbins from
+throwster.
+
+CANTON CREPE
+
+DISP. 9--Can also be made with Canton silk for filling and may be called
+Canton crêpe. As Canton silk is much cheaper than Japan, the manufacturer
+can use 4-thread Canton instead of 3-thread Japan for filling at a little
+difference in cost, thus the cloth will be heavier, but Canton silk is not
+as even and clean as Japan.
+
+                                                                 [Page 104]
+  Article--TAFFETA GLACE Reed 70/3
+  Disp. 1    Width 18¾ in.
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Class 12/14               $5.00 raw silk
+                                                .60 throwing
+          2-Thread Organ. brown bright          .45 dyeing
+          16-oz.                                .15 winding
+                                               -----
+          raw lbs. 2.60                       $6.20               $16.23
+    Warping--4032 at 3¢.                                            1.21
+    Twisting--3978 at 25¢. per 300 meters                            .33
+    Filling--Jap. Tram. Best No. 1 13/15      $4.25 raw silk
+                                                .45 throwing
+             2/2 ends 104 picks                 .45 dyeing
+                                                .15 winding
+             gold bright 16 oz.                 .15 doubling
+                                                .10 quilling
+                                              -----
+             raw lbs. 2.73                    $5.55                15.02
+    Weaving                                                         7.00
+    Picking                                                         1.00
+    Finishing                                                       1.00
+    Expenses                                                        7.00
+                                                                  ------
+                                                                  $48.79
+                                              5% trade discount
+                                              7½% selling commission
+                                              Divide by 87½
+                                              Cost per yard = $0.5576
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+   Article--SURAH 3-1  Reed 80/2
+   Disp. 2       Width 36 in.
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Class. 10/12              $5.20
+                                                .65
+          2-Thread Organ. bright black          .81 discount 15%
+          24 oz.                                .30 dyed 20%
+                                              -----
+          lbs. 3.36                           $6.96               $23.39
+    Warping--5904 at 2¾¢.                                        1.62
+    Twisting--5872 at 35¢.--600 lb. warp                             .25
+    Filling--cotton 120/1                     $1.25
+                                                .10 dye
+         black 1 end 120 picks                  .08 winding
+                                                .07 quilling
+                                              -----
+                lbs. 9.50                     $1.50                14.25
+    Weaving                                                        12.00
+    Picking                                                         1.50
+    Finishing                                                       2.00
+    Expenses                                                        7.00
+                                                                   -----
+                                                                  $62.01
+                                             5% discount
+                                             6% commission
+                                             Divide by 89
+                                             Cost per yard = $0.6967
+
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+								 [Page 105]
+  Article--SATIN DUCHESSE Reed 66/4
+  Disp. 3        Width 2 x 23 in.
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14          $5.00
+                                            .60
+          2-Thread Organ. black bright      .73
+          22 oz.                            .21
+                                          -----
+          lbs. 8.50                       $6.54            $55.59
+    Warping--12624 at 2¾¢.                                   3.47
+    Twisting--12256 at 25¢.  600 meters                       .51
+    Filling--Jap. Tram No. 1--14/16       $4.00
+                                            .40
+      black souple 44 oz.                  1.60 net
+                                            .40
+    1/2 and 1/3 = 1/5  80 picks             .40 doubling
+                                            .30
+                                          -----
+      lbs. 7.14                           $7.10             50.69
+    Weaving                                                 13.00
+    Picking                                                  2.00
+    Finishing                                                2.50
+    Expenses                                                 8.00
+                                                          -------
+                                                          $135.76
+                                          Divide by 89
+                                          Cost per yard = $0.7627
+
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+  Article--ARMURE SATIN  Reed 60/4
+  Disp. 4      Width 26 in.
+  STOCK AND DYE
+    Warp--Jap. Ex. 12/14                  $4.75
+                                            .60
+      2-Thread Organ. black bright          .64
+      20 oz.                                .19
+                                          -----
+      lbs. 4.30                           $6.18            $26.57
+  Warping--6520 at 2¾¢.                                      1.79
+    Twisting--6424 at 25¢.  600 meters                        .27
+    Filling--Jap. Tram No. 1  16/18       $4.00
+                                            .30
+      black bright 26 oz.                   .94
+                                            .25
+      2/3 ends 104 picks                    .25
+                                            .17
+                                          -----
+      lbs. 6.80                           $5.91             40.19
+    Weaving                                                 10.00
+    Picking                                                  1.00
+    Finishing                                                1.00
+    Expenses                                                 7.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $87.82
+                                          Divide by 89
+                                          Cost per yard = $0.9867
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                 [Page 106]
+  Article--PRINTED ARMURE  Reed 52/2/2
+  Disp. 5      Width 18½ in.
+  STOCK AND DYE
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14          $5.00
+          2-Thread Organ. white bright      .60
+          P.D.                              .23
+                                            .12
+                                          -----
+          lbs. 2.62                       $5.95       $15.59
+    Warping--3984/1 at 3¢.                              1.20
+    Twisting--1992/2 at 30¢.  300 meters                 .20
+    Filling--Ital. Tram. souple 13/14     $4.50
+                                            .30
+      white bright P.D.                     .23
+                                            .10
+      1/5 end 96 picks                      .07
+                                          -----
+      lbs. 3.08                           $5.20        16.02
+    Weaving                                             8.00
+    Picking                                             1.00
+    Finishing and Printing                              5.00
+    Expenses                                            8.00
+                                                      ------
+                                                      $55.01
+                                Divide by 87½
+                                Cost per yard = $0.6287
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                 [Page 107]
+  Article--SATIN STRIPED REPS  Reed 60/62
+  Disp. 6     Width 20¼ in.
+  STOCK AND DYE
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Organ. 24/26           $5.00
+          black bright 22 oz.                .60
+                                             .73
+                                             .21
+                                           -----
+          lbs. 3.56                        $6.54           $23.28
+          Ital. Ex. Organ. 18/20           $5.20
+                                             .65
+          sky bright P.D.                    .23
+                                             .12
+                                           -----
+          lbs. .83                         $6.20             5.15
+          Cotton 100/2                     $1.00
+                                             .12
+                                             .08
+                                           -----
+          scarlet lbs. 1.37                $1.20             1.64
+    Warping--8316 at 4¢.                                     3.32
+    Twisting--7434 at 50¢.  300 meters                       1.24
+    Filling--Jap. tram. No. 1 14/16        $4.00
+                                             .35
+       scarlet bright 16 oz. 1/3 ends        .45
+                                             .15
+       144 picks.   lbs. 3.57                .10
+                                           -----
+                                           $5.05            18.04
+    Weaving                                                 12.00
+    Picking                                                  1.00
+    Finishing                                                1.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $66.67
+    Expenses 15%                                            10.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $76.67
+                                           Divide by 87½
+                                           Cost per yard = $0.8763
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                 [Page 108]
+  Article--MESSALINE BROCADE Reed 60/3
+  Disp. 7       Width 23 in.
+    Warp--Jap. Ex. 13/15                $4.50
+                                          .60
+          2-Thread navy bright 16 oz.     .45
+                                          .15
+                                         ----
+          lbs. 3.20                     $5.70              $18.24
+    Warping--4320 at 3¢.                                     1.30
+    Twisting--4260 at 30¢.  300 meters                        .41
+    Filling--Jap. Tram No. 1 13/15      $4.00
+                                          .35
+     emerald ex. bright dye 24 oz.        .95
+                                          .25
+     1/3 ends  100 picks                  .15
+                                        -----
+     lbs. 2.50                          $5.70               14.25
+    Weaving                                                  9.00
+    Picking                                                  1.00
+    Finishing                                                1.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $45.20
+    Expenses 15%                                             6.78
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $51.98
+                                        Divide by 87½
+                                        Cost per yard = $0.5941
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+  Article--BENGALINE Reed 72/2 by 1 single; 1 double
+  Disp. 8       Width 36 in.
+    Warp--Jap. ex. 13/15                $4.50
+                                          .60
+          2-Thread Organ. black bright    .64
+          20 oz.                          .19
+                                        -----
+          lbs. 5.77                     $5.93              $34.22
+    Warping--7964 at 2¾¢.                                    2.19
+    Twisting--5296 at 30¢.  600 meters                        .27
+    Filling--56 picks by                $4.50
+             5 organ. 2 Cotton            .60
+                                          .64
+                                          .19     .45
+                                          .12     .10
+                                        -----
+             40 picks Organ. as warp    $6.05     .08        6.05
+             lbs. 1                               .07
+             16 picks black cotton 15/4         -----
+             lbs. 22.50                         $ .70       15.75
+
+    Weaving                                                 12.00
+    Picking                                                  1.50
+    Finishing                                                3.00
+    Expenses                                                 8.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $82.98
+                                        Divide by 91
+                                        Cost per yard = $0.9119
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                 [Page 109]
+  Article--CREPE DE CHINE (Taffeta weave)  Reed 60/2/2
+  Disp. 9        Width 40 in.
+                 44½ in. in reed
+    Warp--Jap. Ex. Grege 20/22            $4.50
+                                            .05 winding
+                                          -----
+          2% waste lbs. 5.60              $4.55            $25.48
+    Warping--5340/2 at 2½¢.                                  2.67
+    Twisting--5340/2 at 25¢.  600 meters                      .23
+    Filling--Jap. No. 1 13/15
+          4 ends hard twist 60 turns      $4.00
+                                           1.25 throwing
+          84 picks by 2 right, 2 left      0.05 quilling
+            twist                         -----
+          25% waste and shrinkage         $5.30
+            lbs. 6.00                                       31.80
+    Weaving                                                  9.00
+    Finishing and dyeing                                     5.00
+    Picking                                                  1.00
+    Expenses                                                 7.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $82.18
+                                          5% discount
+                                          5% selling expense
+                                          Divide by 90
+                                          Cost per yard = $0.9131
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+  Article--CREPE GEORGETTE  Reed 50/2
+           (Taffeta weave) by 1 right, 1 left twist
+  Disp. 10  Width 40 in.  47 in. in reed
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Class 16/18 Raw       $5.20
+                                           1.60
+                                          -----
+      2-Thread hardtwist 75 turns         $6.80            $36.72
+    30% shrinkage and waste lbs. 5.40
+    Warping--4640/1  30/2  4760 at 4¢.                       1.90
+    Twisting--4700 at 50¢. 600 meters                         .40
+    Filling--Same silk as warp
+             100 picks by 2 right, 2 left
+             twist                        $5.20
+                                           1.60
+                                            .10
+                                           ----
+             lbs. 5.00                    $6.90             34.50
+    Weaving                                                 15.00
+    Picking                                                  1.00
+    Finishing and dyeing                                     6.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $95.52
+    Expenses 12½%                                           11.94
+                                                          -------
+                                                          $107.46
+                                          Divide by 87½
+                                          Cost per yard = $1.2281
+
+                                                                 [Page 110]
+CALCULATION BLANK
+
+  ARTICLE_____________________________________REED_____________________
+
+  DISP________________________________________WIDTH____________________
+
+  WARP_________________________________________________________________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  --------------------------------------------|---|---|---|---|--------
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  --------------------------------------------|---|---|---|---|--------
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  --------------------------------------------|---|---|---|---|--------
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  WARPING_____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  TWISTING____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  FILLING_____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  ____________________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  WEAVING_____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  PICKING_____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  FINISHING___________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  EXPENSES____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+
+
+                            PRICE PER YARD
+
+                                                                 [Page 111]
+INDEX
+
+  DRAWING-IN, 7
+    Straight Draws, 7
+    Skip Draws, 9
+    Point Draws, 9
+    Section Draws, 10
+  THE WEAVES AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION, 15
+    The Taffeta Weave, 17
+    Gros de Tours Weaves, 19
+    Serge Weaves, 20
+    Twill Weaves, 20
+  FILLING EFFECTS 21
+    Satin de Lyon, 21
+    Levantine, 21
+    Polonaise, 22
+    Serge grosse coté, 22
+    Serge Romaine, 23
+    Serge, 23
+  WARP EFFECTS, 25
+    Levantine, 25
+  EVENSIDED TWILLS, 26
+    Surah, 26
+    Croise, 26
+  POINTED TWILLS, 27
+  SATIN WEAVES, 32
+    Satine de Chine, 34
+    Satin Merveilleux, 34
+    7 Harness Satin, 35
+    Duchesse, 35
+  IRREGULAR SATINS, 39
+    Satin Ture, 39
+    Satin à la Reine, 40
+  DERIVATIVE WEAVES, 41
+    From the Taffeta, 41
+    From the Twills, 43
+    From the Satin Weave, 46
+    Cannele and Repp Weaves, 49
+  DOUBLE FACED FABRICS, 55
+    Warp Effects, 55
+  FILLING EFFECTS, 58
+    Pekins, 60
+    Bayadères, 63
+                                                                 [Page 112]
+    Checks and Plaids, 65
+  DECOMPOSITION, 67
+    The Weave, 68
+    Length and Width of the Fabric, 68
+    The Stock and Its Dye, 69
+    Reed Calculation, 70
+    Drawing-in the Warp in Harness and Reed, 70
+    Warping Ticket, 71
+    Harness Arrangement, 71
+    Reduction of the Filling, 71
+    Calculation of Warp and Filling, 71
+    Finishing, 72
+    Calculation of Cost, 72
+  DISPOSITIONS, 75
+  JACQUARD WEAVES, 100
+    Box Loom Weaves Including Crêpes, 100
+    Manufacturing Costs, 101
+  CALCULATIONS, 103
+    Calculation Blank, 110
+
+                                                                 [Page 113]
+OTHER BOOKS
+
+Published by
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+CLIFFORD & LAWTON 373 Fourth Avenue New York.
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+       *       *       *       *       *
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+DICTIONARY OF SILK TERMS
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+from the raw silk to the finished broad and narrow silks, including weaves,
+styles, patterns, effects, colors, trade-marks, etc. Bound in cloth, 93
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+COLOR VALUE
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+Colored plates and diagrams illustrating the fundamental principles of the
+subject, of inestimable value to either student or artisan. Price, $1.50
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+PERIOD FURNISHINGS
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+By C.R. CLIFFORD
+
+An encyclopedia of furnishings, decorations, furniture. Contains 2,731
+illustrations, 266 pages, size 9¼ x 12; 112 fabric illustrations, covering
+all periods. Price, $6.00 postpaid.
+
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+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's Theory Of Silk Weaving, by Arnold Wolfensberger
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Theory Of Silk Weaving
+
+Author: Arnold Wolfensberger
+
+Release Date: January 5, 2005 [EBook #14600]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THEORY OF SILK WEAVING ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Stan Goodman, Keith Edkins and the PG Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<!-- Page 1 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1"></a>[pg 1]</span>
+
+  <p class="c">THEORY OF SILK WEAVING</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 2 Blank -->
+
+<!-- Page 3 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3"></a>[pg 3]</span>
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal; line-height:1.75em;">
+<span style="font-size:100%;">THEORY</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">OF</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:150%;">SILK WEAVING</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  A Treatise on the Construction and</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  Application of Weaves, and the</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  Decomposition and Calculation of</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  Broad and Narrow, Plain,</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  Novelty and Jacquard Silk Fabrics</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  Containing 95 Plates</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:80%;">
+  <i>By</i> ARNOLD WOLFENSBERGER</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  Graduate of the Textile Institute of Zurich,</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  Switzerland</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p class="c">Second Revised and Enlarged Edition</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  NEW YORK</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  <i>Issued by</i> THE AMERICAN SILK JOURNAL</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  CLIFFORD &amp; LAWTON</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  <i>Publishers</i></span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">
+  1921</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+<!-- Page 4 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4"></a>[pg 4]</span>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p class="c">COPYRIGHT. 1921. by CLIFFORD &amp; LAWTON</p>
+
+  <p class="c"><i>All rights reserved</i></p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p class="c">GROLIER CRAFT PRESS, Printers. 229 West Twenty-eighth Street, New York
+  City</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 5 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5"></a>[pg 5]</span>
+
+<h3>PREFACE</h3>
+
+  <p>The silk industry of America has of late years rapidly advanced to the
+  front rank among the great textile industries of the world. It may indeed
+  be proud of this position, to which that enterprising spirit and untiring
+  energy peculiar to our nation, combined with our great technical and
+  natural resources, has brought it.</p>
+
+  <p>That we are, on the other hand, not yet at the height of perfection we
+  are also compelled to acknowledge, but if we consider the short space of
+  time that the American industry has required for its development, as
+  compared to the decades, almost centuries, to which some of the great
+  European silk centers can look back, the fact is neither surprising nor
+  discouraging.</p>
+
+  <p>While it must not be our aim to imitate or copy their ways, inasmuch
+  as out conditions and circumstances are quite different from theirs, we
+  may still profitably study their methods in order to overcome our
+  deficiencies.</p>
+
+  <p>The greatest advantage which our competitors derive from such a long
+  existence consists in having at their disposal a force of skilful,
+  trained help. The manufacturers, appreciating the importance of this
+  factor, make great efforts and pecuniary sacrifices to elevate and
+  maintain the high standard of their industry.</p>
+
+  <p>For instance, they support textile schools and lecture courses, where
+  young men can acquire a thorough technical education and equip themselves
+  for a career of usefulness, thereby serving their own interests and at
+  the same time furthering those of their chosen profession.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 6 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6"></a>[pg 6]</span>
+
+  <p>This beneficial influence cannot fail to exert itself from the
+  standard of the higher employer down to that of the weaver, who would
+  naturally take more pains and interest in his work than if he were a mere
+  mechanical appendage to his loom in order to keep it in motion.</p>
+
+  <p>Very little has been done in his country for technical education as
+  far as the silk industry is concerned, and it was on this special branch,
+  that prompted the author to offer in the present little work a treatise
+  on the theory of shaft weaving for broad silks and ribbons.</p>
+
+  <p>It is divided into three principal parts:</p>
+
+      <p class="i8"><b>1st. Drawing-in the warp in the harness.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>2nd. The weaves and their application.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>3rd. Decomposition or analysis of the cloth.</b></p>
+
+  <p>To the foregoing there have been added in the revised and enlarged
+  edition several additional parts covering the following: JACQUARD WEAVES,
+  BOX LOOM WEAVES, including CREPES, and COST CALCULATIONS for plain and
+  fancy weaves.</p>
+
+  <p>The subject while condensed, is made as clear and comprehensible as
+  possible, and to many desirous of increasing their knowledge in this
+  direction, this should prove a valuable help.</p>
+
+  <p>The author, through the medium of this work, hopes to win the approval
+  and encouragement of the manufacturers, and will feel amply repaid should
+  his efforts tend to develop a deeper interest in the "Queen of
+  Textiles."</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 7 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7"></a>[pg 7]</span>
+
+<h2>THEORY OF SILK WEAVING</h2>
+
+<h3>DRAWING-IN</h3>
+
+  <p>With this term we designate the operation preceding the weaving, by
+  which all the warp-threads are drawn through the heddles of the
+  harness.</p>
+
+  <p>The order in which this is done varies according to the weave and the
+  nature of the fabric to be produced; so we distinguish:</p>
+
+      <p class="i8"><b>Straight draws,</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>Skip draws,</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>Point draws,</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>Section draws.</b></p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>STRAIGHT DRAWS</h3>
+
+<a name="Fig_1"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig1.png"
+alt="Fig. 1" /><br />Fig. 1
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 8 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8"></a>[pg 8]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_2"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig2.png"
+alt="Fig. 2" /><br />Fig. 2
+  </div>
+  <p>These form the simplest and most common method of drawing-in. We begin
+  with the first heddle on the left side of the shaft <i>nearest to the
+  warp-beam</i>, then take the first heddle of second shaft and so on until
+  all the shafts the set contains are used in rotation. This completes one
+  "draw," and this operation is repeated until all the warp-threads are
+  taken up.</p>
+
+  <p>The method of making the shaft nearest to the warp-beam the first, is
+  almost universal with the silk business and is technically called
+  <i>drawing-in from back to front</i>.</p>
+
+  <p>The opposite, or drawing in from <i>front to rear</i>, is used
+  occasionally, however, and in this case makes the first heddle on the
+  left hand side of the front shaft No. 1.</p>
+
+  <p>The making out of the <i>Drawing-in Draft</i>, which must indicate the
+  arrangement or the rotation in which the warp-threads are drawn in, can
+  be done in various ways, of which we will mention the two most popular
+  methods. The first is by using common designing paper, and indicating the
+  rotation by dots. The horizonal rows of squares represent the shafts, the
+  vertical rows the warp-threads. Fig. <a href="#Fig_1">1</a> shows four
+  repeats of a straight draw on six harness marked out according to this
+  idea. A second method is to use paper ruled horizontally, the lines
+  representing the shafts; and to draw vertical lines
+<!-- Page 9 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9"></a>[pg 9]</span>
+  for the warp-threads.
+  The latter are made to stop on the lines bearing the number of the shafts
+  into which the respective threads are to be drawn. Fig. <a
+  href="#Fig_2">2</a> is such a draft, illustrating six repeats of a draw
+  on four harness from "Front to Rear."</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>SKIP DRAWS</h3>
+
+<div class="c">
+<table><tr><td class="b">
+<a name="Fig_3"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig3.png"
+alt="Fig. 3" /><br />Fig. 3
+  </div>
+
+</td><td>
+
+<a name="Fig_4"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig4.png"
+alt="Fig. 4" /><br />Fig. 4
+  </div>
+</td></tr></table>
+</div>
+
+  <p>The draws coming under this heading are used very extensively in silk
+  weaving, especially for fabrics requiring a heavy warp and a large number
+  of shafts. Enter first the odd and then the even shafts. An 8 harness
+  draw of this kind, of which three repeats are shown in Fig. <a
+  href="#Fig_3">3</a>, runs as follows: 1, 3, 5, 7, 2, 4, 6, 8.</p>
+
+  <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_4">4</a> is a 12 harness draw of the same
+  class.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>POINT DRAWS</h3>
+
+<a name="Fig_5"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig5.png"
+alt="Fig. 5" /><br />Fig. 5
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 10 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10"></a>[pg 10]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_6"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig6.png"
+alt="Fig. 6" /><br />Fig. 6
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_7"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig7.png"
+alt="Fig. 7" /><br />Fig. 7
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_8"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig8.png"
+alt="Fig. 8" /><br />Fig. 8
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_9"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig9.png"
+alt="Fig. 9" /><br />Fig. 9
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 11 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11"></a>[pg 11]</span>
+
+  <p>Point draws are a combination of a regular straight draw from back to
+  front and one from front to back, the first and the last shafts only
+  being used once, while the rest receive two ends each in one repeat of
+  the draw. Fig. <a href="#Fig_5">5</a> illustrates a regular point draw in
+  2 repeats on 10 shafts. It will be seen that 14 ends make a repeat; in
+  fact, the number of warp-threads required for one draw will always be
+  double the number of harness less 2, hence a 12 harness regular point
+  draw will require 22 warp-threads for a repeat.</p>
+
+  <p>The drawing-in draft illustrated in Fig. <a href="#Fig_6">6</a> is a
+  slight variation of the regular point draw; it consists, as will be seen,
+  of a draw from back to front, and also a full one from front to back,
+  there by causing a <i>double point</i>.</p>
+
+  <p>Another change from the regular point draw is illustrated in Figs. <a
+  href="#Fig_7">7</a> and <a href="#Fig_8">8</a>; this class may be called
+  <i>Broken point draws</i>, because a new draw is begun before the other
+  one is complete. Fig. <a href="#Fig_9">9</a> also comes in this class and
+  represents a <i>zigzag draw</i> on 10 harness.</p>
+
+  <p>The drawing-in drafts which we have described under the head of "Point
+  draws," are used mostly to obtain the various pointed and zigzag
+  effects.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>SECTION DRAWS</h3>
+
+<a name="Fig_10"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig10.png"
+alt="Fig. 10" /><br />Fig. 10
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 12 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12"></a>[pg 12]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_11"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig11.png"
+alt="Fig. 11" /><br />Fig. 11
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_12"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig12.png"
+alt="Fig. 12" /><br />Fig. 12
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_13"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig13.png"
+alt="Fig. 13" /><br />Fig. 13
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_14"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig14.png"
+alt="Fig. 14" /><br />Fig. 14
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 13 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13"></a>[pg 13]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_15"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig15.png"
+alt="Fig. 15" /><br />Fig. 15
+  </div>
+  <p>This division of drawing-in drafts is used extensively in silk
+  manufacturing; for instance, in all fabrics having a ground warp and a
+  binder warp, also in double-face goods, or where two different weaves are
+  combined in one effect.</p>
+
+  <p>One or more threads are drawn on the first section, then one or more
+  on a second and third, if the harness is divided in so many sets.</p>
+
+  <p>The following examples will illustrate the principle of these
+  draws.</p>
+
+  <p>In Fig. <a href="#Fig_10">10</a>, shafts 1, 2, 3, 4 from the first
+  set, shafts 5 and 6 the second, 8 threads are drawn straight on the
+  first, then 2 on the second section.</p>
+
+  <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_11">11</a>, first set shafts 1 to 6 inclusive,
+  second set shafts 7 and 8.</p>
+
+  <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_12">12</a> is drawn end and end on two sections
+  having 8 shafts each.</p>
+
+  <p>Figs. <a href="#Fig_13">13</a>, <a href="#Fig_14">14</a> and <a
+  href="#Fig_15">15</a>, while not strictly belonging to the class of
+  section draws, may, however, be considered under this heading. The idea
+  is to draw a certain number of ends in one part of the harness and
+  another group in another part, be it straight, point or skip, which will
+  cause the effect on the cloth to be accordingly transposed or broken
+  up.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 14 Blank -->
+
+<!-- Page 15 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15"></a>[pg 15]</span>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>THE WEAVES
+AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION</h3>
+
+  <p>In any woven fabric we distinguish two systems of threads, the <i>Warp
+  or Chain</i>, running lengthways in the cloth, and the <i>Filling or
+  Weft</i>, crossing the former at right angles.</p>
+
+  <p>This crossing or interlacing consists of every individual warp-thread
+  being placed alternately under and over one or more threads of the
+  filling system. The arrangement of this interlacing is technically called
+  the <i>Weave</i>, and the variety in which the points of crossing can be
+  distributed is practically endless.</p>
+
+  <p>It is principally the weave that lends to a fabric its character,
+  influenced, of course, by the material used, the size and tension of the
+  threads and the combination of the colors.</p>
+
+  <p>The weaves are divided into three main classes: <i>the Foundation
+  weaves</i>. In the silk business they are known under the following
+  names:</p>
+
+      <p class="i8"><b>The Taffeta Weave,</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>The Serge Weave,</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>The Satin Weave.</b></p>
+
+  <p>In the foundation weaves each thread effects only one crossing in one
+  repeat of the weave, and the points of interlacing occur in a given
+  rotation. A repeat in the foundation weaves comprises the same number of
+  warp-threads as of
+<!-- Page 16 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16"></a>[pg 16]</span>
+  <i>picks</i> or filling threads, and if
+  this number is 8, for instance, the weave is called an 8-shaft or an
+  8-harness weave. In marking out a weave, the warp-threads are represented
+  by vertical lines, the filling by horizontal ones, or in each case by the
+  space between these lines. The places where a warp-thread lies over the
+  filling are marked with paint or simply with a cross. In a similar manner
+  we mark out the <i>chain draft</i>, which indicates the rotation in which
+  the shafts are raised.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 17 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17"></a>[pg 17]</span>
+
+<h3>THE TAFFETA WEAVE</h3>
+
+<a name="Fig_16"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig16.png"
+alt="Fig. 16" /><br />Fig. 16
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_17"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig17.png"
+alt="Fig. 17" /><br />Fig. 17
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 18 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18"></a>[pg 18]</span>
+
+  <p>This is the simplest and oldest method of interlacing. The odd numbers
+  of warp-threads cross the even numbers after every pick; hence of two
+  warp-threads one will always go over the first pick and under the second,
+  and the other end under the first and over the second pick. Taffeta
+  cloth, therefore, has the same appearance on both sides, and in cotton
+  and wool weaving this weave is technically&mdash;and properly
+  indeed&mdash;called the <i>Plain Weave</i>. It has the smallest repeat, 2
+  warp-threads and 2 picks, and the exchanging of warp and filling is the
+  most frequent possible. The cloth thus produced is firmer and stronger
+  than that obtained with any other weave.</p>
+
+  <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_16">16</a> is a taffeta on 4 shafts straight draw,
+  the draft executed in the manner which we have already mentioned in
+  explaining the drawing-in drafts.</p>
+
+  <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_17">17</a> on common designing paper, illustrates a
+  taffeta made on 8-harness, skip draw.</p>
+
+  <p>Be it mentioned that the drawing-in draft and the chain draft will be
+  added throughout this work, the former over the weave to correspond with
+  the respective warp-threads, the latter to the right of the drawing-in
+  draft.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 19 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19"></a>[pg 19]</span>
+
+<h3>GROS DE TOURS WEAVES</h3>
+
+<div class="c">
+<table><tr><td class="b">
+<a name="Fig_18"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig18.png"
+alt="Fig. 18" /><br />Fig. 18
+  </div>
+
+</td><td>
+
+<a name="Fig_19"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig19.png"
+alt="Fig. 19" /><br />Fig. 19
+  </div>
+</td></tr></table>
+</div>
+
+  <p>In this weave the working of the warp is the same as in taffeta,
+  except that instead of one pick, two or more are inserted in the same
+  shed. It is mostly used in selvedges, where it serves to give more
+  firmness to the edge of an otherwise loosely woven cloth, and prevents
+  the weaving ahead of the edge in a tight weave. Gros de Tours is
+  sometimes used, especially when cotton or wool filling is employed, with
+  a view to lay two picks nicely side by side, whereas a thread entered two
+  ply with the taffeta weave will always receive some twist, which may
+  disturb the perfect evenness of the fabric.</p>
+
+  <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_18">18</a> is a Gros de Tours with two picks on
+  four harness straight through.</p>
+
+  <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_19">19</a> illustrates this weave with three picks
+  drawn end and end on two sections of four shafts each.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 20 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20"></a>[pg 20]</span>
+
+<h3>SERGE or TWILL WEAVES</h3>
+
+  <p>While the taffeta weave produces either an entirely smooth fabric, or
+  one with a distinct transverse rib as in gros-grain, the twill weave
+  forms diagonal lines on the cloth, running either from left to right or
+  from right to left.</p>
+
+  <p>To make a twill, not less than three ends and three picks are
+  required, of which each thread floats over two of the other system and
+  interlaces with the third. The rotation of the interlacing is always
+  consecutive, that is it moves with each succeeding pick one thread to the
+  right (or to the left if the lines are to run in that direction). If warp
+  and filling have the same texture, that is the same number of threads in
+  a given space, the twill lines will form an angle of 45°; if the warp
+  stands closer than the filling, the incline will be steeper, and in the
+  opposite case the angle will approach more the horizontal.</p>
+
+  <p>The weaves can be expressed in numbers, for instance: the 3-end twill
+  warp effect would be marked 2-1, which indicates that each warp-thread
+  goes over two and under one pick.</p>
+
+  <p>Twill weaves are called <i>evensided</i> when the arrangement of "warp
+  up" and "filling up" are evenly balanced, and <i>unevensided</i> if
+  either warp or filling predominate on the face of the fabric; the latter
+  class is therefore subdivided in <i>Warp effects</i> and <i>Filling
+  effects</i>.</p>
+
+  <p>In the following a number of serge weaves are illustrated, the French
+  designations being added in some cases, as they are still extensively
+  used in the trade.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 21 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21"></a>[pg 21]</span>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>FILLING EFFECTS</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Satin de Lyon,</i> 2-1.</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 6 harness straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_20"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig20.png"
+alt="Fig. 20" /><br />Fig. 20
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Levantine,</i> 3-1</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_21"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig21.png"
+alt="Fig. 21" /><br />Fig. 21
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 22 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22"></a>[pg 22]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Polonaise,</i> 5-1</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 12 harness skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_22"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig22.png"
+alt="Fig. 22" /><br />Fig. 22
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge grosse côte,</i> 7-1</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_23"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig23.png"
+alt="Fig. 23" /><br />Fig. 23
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 23 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23"></a>[pg 23]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge remaine,</i> 6-2</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_24"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig24.png"
+alt="Fig. 24" /><br />Fig. 24
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge,</i> 5-1, 1-1.</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_25"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig25.png"
+alt="Fig. 25" /><br />Fig. 25
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 24 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24"></a>[pg 24]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge,</i> 4-2, 1-1, 1-1.</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 10 harness straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_26"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig26.png"
+alt="Fig. 26" /><br />Fig. 26
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge,</i> 7-1, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1.</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 16 shafts skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_27"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig27.png"
+alt="Fig. 27" /><br />Fig. 27
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 25 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25"></a>[pg 25]</span>
+
+<h3>WARP EFFECTS</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Levantine,</i> 3-1.</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 4 shafts straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_28"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig28.png"
+alt="Fig. 28" /><br />Fig. 28
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge,</i> 5-1, 1-1.</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_29"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig29.png"
+alt="Fig. 29" /><br />Fig. 29
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 26 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26"></a>[pg 26]</span>
+
+<h3>EVENSIDED TWILLS</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Surah,</i> 2-2</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 4 shafts straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_30"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig30.png"
+alt="Fig. 30" /><br />Fig. 30
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Croise,</i> 3-3, 2-2, 1-1.</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 12 shafts straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_31"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig31.png"
+alt="Fig. 31" /><br />Fig. 31
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 27 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27"></a>[pg 27]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge,</i> 7-7, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 20 shafts skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_32"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig32.png"
+alt="Fig. 32" /><br />Fig. 32
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<h3>POINTED TWILLS</h3>
+
+<p class="c">in the direction of the filling and also of the warp.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_33"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig33.png"
+alt="Fig. 33" /><br />Fig. 33
+  </div>
+<p class="c">On 4 shafts point draw, weave 3-1.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 28 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28"></a>[pg 28]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_34"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig34.png"
+alt="Fig. 34" /><br />Fig. 34
+  </div>
+  <blockquote>On 6 shafts point draw, drawn as follows:</blockquote>
+
+  <blockquote>Eighteen ends from back to front and 4 ends from front to
+  rear, weave 5-1.</blockquote>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_35"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig35.png"
+alt="Fig. 35" /><br />Fig. 35
+  </div>
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts pointed draw, weave 5-1, 1-1.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 29 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29"></a>[pg 29]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_36"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig36.png"
+alt="Fig. 36" /><br />Fig. 36
+  </div>
+  <p>On 10 shafts, with weave 3-3, drawn as follows:</p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>7</td><td>threads</td><td>from</td><td>back to front.</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>3</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>front to rear.</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>6</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>back to front.</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>front to rear.</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_37"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig37.png"
+alt="Fig. 37" /><br />Fig. 37
+  </div>
+<p class="c">On 6 shafts straight draw, pointed weave 5-1.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 30 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30"></a>[pg 30]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_38"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig38.png"
+alt="Fig. 38" /><br />Fig. 38
+  </div>
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts straight through, pointed weave 5-1, 1-1.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_39"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig39.png"
+alt="Fig. 39" /><br />Fig. 39
+  </div>
+<p class="c"><i>Broken pointed twill</i>, on 8 harness.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 31 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31"></a>[pg 31]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_40"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig40.png"
+alt="Fig. 40" /><br />Fig. 40
+  </div>
+<p class="c">On 6 shafts point draw, pointed weave 5-1.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_41"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig41.png"
+alt="Fig. 41" /><br />Fig. 41
+  </div>
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts point draw, pointed weave 5-1, 1-1.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 32 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32"></a>[pg 32]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_42"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig42.png"
+alt="Fig. 42" /><br />Fig. 42
+  </div>
+<p class="c"><i>Fancy twill</i>, on 16 shafts straight draw.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>SATIN WEAVES</h3>
+
+  <p>The distinct diagonal lines which characterize the class of weaves
+  explained in the previous chapter are absent in the satin weaves; and
+  while the interlacing in the former is done in a strictly consecutive
+  order, we endeavor to scatter the points of stitching in the latter as
+  much as possible, in order
+<!-- Page 33 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33"></a>[pg 33]</span>
+  to create an entirely smooth and
+  brilliant surface on the cloth.</p>
+
+  <p>In all satins the number of ends in a repeat is the same in warp and
+  filling.</p>
+
+  <p>The lowest repeat of a regular satin comprises five threads of each
+  system, and the interlacing is done in the following order:</p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>The</td><td>1st</td><td>pick</td><td>with the</td><td>1st</td><td>warp-thread</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>2d</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3d</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>3d</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>5th</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>4th</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2d</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>5th</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4th</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>Fig. <a href="#Fig_43">43</a> illustrates this weave. An examination
+  of the rotation, as given above, will show that every warp-thread
+  intersects two picks apart from its neighbor. The number "2" is in this
+  case what is technically known as the <i>counter</i>, that is the number
+  which indicates the points of interlacing by adding it to number 1 and
+  continuing so until all the warp-threads are taken up.</p>
+
+  <p>The following is the rule to find the counter for any regular
+  satin:</p>
+
+  <p>Divide the number of harness into two parts, which must neither be
+  equal nor have a common divisor. Any of these two numbers can be used for
+  counting off, but usually the smaller one is taken. According to this
+  rule we obtain a regular satin</p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>On</td><td class="r">5</td><td>harness</td><td>with counter</td><td>2</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">7</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2 or 3</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">8</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">9</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2 or 4</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>10</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>11</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2, 3, 4 or 5</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>12</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>5</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>13</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2, 3, 4, 5 or 6</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>14</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3 or 5</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>15</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2, 4 or 7</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>16</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3, 5 or 7.</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 34 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34"></a>[pg 34]</span>
+
+  <p>The 4 harness broken twill, Fig. <a href="#Fig_53">53</a>, is
+  sometimes classed among the satins.</p>
+
+  <p>The 6 harness satin, Fig. <a href="#Fig_54">54</a>, is irregular; as a
+  counter cannot be derived from number 6 by the given rule. The rotation
+  generally used is 1, 3, 6, 4, 2, 5.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>Regular Satins</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>5 harness Satin, "Satin de Chine."</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Straight draw, counter 2.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_43"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig43.png"
+alt="Fig. 43" /><br />Fig. 43
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>7 harness Satin, "Satin Merveilleux."</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Skip draw, counter 2.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_44"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig44.png"
+alt="Fig. 44" /><br />Fig. 44
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 35 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35"></a>[pg 35]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>7 harness satin</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Straight draw, counter 3.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_45"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig45.png"
+alt="Fig. 45" /><br />Fig. 45
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>8 harness satin "Duchese"</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Skip draw, counter 3.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_46"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig46.png"
+alt="Fig. 46" /><br />Fig. 46
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 36 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36"></a>[pg 36]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>9 harness satin</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Straight draw, counter 4.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_47"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig47.png"
+alt="Fig. 47" /><br />Fig. 47
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>10 harness satin</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Straight draw, counter 3.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_48"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig48.png"
+alt="Fig. 48" /><br />Fig. 48
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 37 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37"></a>[pg 37]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>11 harness satin</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Skip draw, counter 5.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_49"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig49.png"
+alt="Fig. 49" /><br />Fig. 49
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>12 harness satin</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Skip draw, counter 5.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_50"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig50.png"
+alt="Fig. 50" /><br />Fig. 50
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 38 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38"></a>[pg 38]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>16 harness satin</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">On 2 sections of 8 shafts each, drawn end and end, counter 7.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_51"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig51.png"
+alt="Fig. 51" /><br />Fig. 51
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 39 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39"></a>[pg 39]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>8 harness satin, warp effect.</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">Straight draw, counter 3.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_52"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig52.png"
+alt="Fig. 52" /><br />Fig. 52
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<h3>IRREGULAR SATINS</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Satin Turc.</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">On 4 shafts straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_53"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig53.png"
+alt="Fig. 53" /><br />Fig. 53
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 40 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40"></a>[pg 40]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Satin à la Reine</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">On 6 shafts straight draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_54"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig54.png"
+alt="Fig. 54" /><br />Fig. 54
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 41 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41"></a>[pg 41]</span>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>DERIVATIVE WEAVES</h3>
+
+<h4><b>1. From the Taffeta</b></h4>
+
+  <p><i>Royale</i> is a modification of the regular Gros de Tours, inasmuch
+  as the rib line, which in the latter runs straight across the cloth, is
+  broken off after a given number of warp-threads. These groups, which may
+  comprise 8, 12 or more threads, will interlace each one pick higher than
+  the preceding one.</p>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Royale of 8 ends</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">On 2 sections of 4 shafts each.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_55"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig55.png"
+alt="Fig. 55" /><br />Fig. 55
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Velours Ottoman or Faille française.</i></p>
+
+  <p>In order to obtain a broader rib than that of Gros de Tours, and at
+  the same time to lend firmness to the fabric, we add to the ground warp,
+  which forms the ribs, another
+<!-- Page 42 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42"></a>[pg 42]</span>
+  or binder warp, which works continually
+  taffeta, while the ground warp changes only every 3 or 4 picks for the
+  rib.</p>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Faille française.</i></p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>4</td><td>ends of</td><td>ground</td><td>on the</td><td>first</td><td>section of </td><td>8</td><td>shafts,</td><td>skip draw.</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>binder</td><td class="c">"</td><td>second</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<a name="Fig_56"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig56.png"
+alt="Fig. 56" /><br />Fig. 56
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Velours Ottoman without a Binder-warp.</i></p>
+
+  <p>In this weave, of which Fig. <a href="#Fig_57">57</a> illustrates a
+  specimen, comprising 8 warp-threads and 32 picks in a repeat, the rib
+  contains 4 picks. Of the 8 warp-threads, 3 float over and 3 under the
+  rib, while the 2 others bind taffeta, which latter function is executed
+  by 2 other threads in the next rib.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 43 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43"></a>[pg 43]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_57"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig57.png"
+alt="Fig. 57" /><br />Fig. 57
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<h4>2. From the Twills</h4>
+
+  <p>One variety is obtained by interlacing the warp-threads alternately
+  one or more picks behind, and then a number of picks ahead of their
+  respective neighbors; so the complete arrangement of the points of
+  binding in a repeat will generally form two parallel diagonal lines. This
+  will cause the twill lines to appear less pronounced than is the case in
+  the regular twill, and the character of the fabric approaches more that
+  of the satin.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 44 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44"></a>[pg 44]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_58"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig58.png"
+alt="Fig. 58" /><br />Fig. 58
+  </div>
+<p class="c"><i>Satin Sergé.</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts, straight draw.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<a name="Fig_59"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig59.png"
+alt="Fig. 59" /><br />Fig. 59
+  </div>
+<p class="c"><i>Côte Satinée.</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">On 16 harness, skip draw.</p>
+
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p><i>Rhadzimir-Surah 2-2.</i> After a certain number of picks of the
+  regular surah all the warp-threads are crossed in two's thereby causing a
+  sort of a rib or cut line across the fabric.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 45 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45"></a>[pg 45]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Rhadzimir of 4 picks.</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts, straight draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_60"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig60.png"
+alt="Fig. 60" /><br />Fig. 60
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Rhadzimir of 6 picks.</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">On 8 shafts, straight draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_61"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig61.png"
+alt="Fig. 61" /><br />Fig. 61
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 46 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46"></a>[pg 46]</span>
+
+<h4>3. From the Satin Weave</h4>
+
+  <p><i>Satin Soleil</i> shows a satin-like surface with a cross line
+  appearance. Fig. <a href="#Fig_62">62</a> illustrates it as made on 8
+  shafts, straight draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_62"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig62.png"
+alt="Fig. 62" /><br />Fig. 62
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p><i>Satin Grec</i> is a 12-harness satin, in which a taffeta point is
+  added to each place of interlacing, thus giving the cloth a much firmer
+  hand. Fig. <a href="#Fig_63">63</a> represents this weave on 12 shafts,
+  skip draw.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 47 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47"></a>[pg 47]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_63"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig63.png"
+alt="Fig. 63" /><br />Fig. 63
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p><i>Peau de Soie.</i> An 8-shaft satin with one point added on the
+  right or left to the original spots, giving the fabric a somewhat grainy
+  appearence. Fig. <a href="#Fig_64">64</a> represents a peau de soie on 8
+  shafts, straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_64"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig64.png"
+alt="Fig. 64" /><br />Fig. 64
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 48 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48"></a>[pg 48]</span>
+
+  <p><i>Fleur de Soie.</i> The face is a satin de Lyon (2-1 twill), with a
+  backing interlaced on the 12-shaft satin principle, Fig. <a
+  href="#Fig_65">65</a>, on 12 shafts, skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_65"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig65.png"
+alt="Fig. 65" /><br />Fig. 65
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 49 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49"></a>[pg 49]</span>
+
+<h3>CANNELE and REPP WEAVES</h3>
+
+  <p>are in their construction related to the taffeta, and are used mostly
+  in the form of stripes as an additional ornament to a fabric. The threads
+  going into the composition of these effects exchange continually from
+  taffeta interlacing to floating over a certain number of threads, and
+  must be introduced either in warp or filling close enough to make the
+  floats cover up the taffeta work entirely, and thus enable the material
+  used to show up with the full brilliancy it possesses.</p>
+
+  <p>Cannele effects can be produced in two distinct ways. One is to let
+  every individual thread work alternately taffeta and float, while in the
+  other method one thread weaves always taffeta, and a second thread is
+  used for the cannele exclusively. These latter threads must come from a
+  separate warp, which is introduced to embellish the ground or taffeta
+  part of the fabric.</p>
+
+  <p>The floating threads can either stitch all on one pick and so form a
+  continuous cut line, or be divided in groups, of which one will bind in
+  the middle of the floats of the other group. The following designs show
+  both the face and backside of the respective weaves:</p>
+
+<!-- Page 50 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50"></a>[pg 50]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Alternating Cannele</i> of 6 picks.</p>
+
+<p class="c">On 4 shafts, straight through.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_66"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig66.png"
+alt="Fig. 66" /><br />Fig. 66
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p class="c"><i>Canelle</i> (2 beams). Over 3 picks, interlacing on every fourth
+  pick, drawn end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_67"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig67.png"
+alt="Fig. 67" /><br />Fig. 67
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 51 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51"></a>[pg 51]</span>
+
+  <p><i>Cannele</i> over 5 picks, binding on the sixth, but every second
+  thread advanced 3 picks (to the middle of the float of the first thread),
+  drawn end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_68"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig68.png"
+alt="Fig. 68" /><br />Fig. 68
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 52 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52"></a>[pg 52]</span>
+
+  <p><i>Cannele</i> arranged in groups of 8 threads, floating over 6 picks
+  and binding on the seventh and eighth, drawn on 2 sections, with 4 shafts
+  in first and 2 in second section.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_69"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig69.png"
+alt="Fig. 69" /><br />Fig. 69
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p class="c"><i>Repp</i> on 8 shafts straight through. Rotation of filling. 1 pick
+  taffeta, 1 pick float (rib).</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_70"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig70.png"
+alt="Fig. 70" /><br />Fig. 70
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 53 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53"></a>[pg 53]</span>
+
+  <p class="c"><i>Repp</i> of 8 threads, on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 ends per
+  section.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_71"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig71.png"
+alt="Fig. 71" /><br />Fig. 71
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+  <p><i>Repp</i> of 5 threads, binding on the sixth; every second pick
+  binds on the middle of the first pick. On 6 harness straight draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_72"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig72.png"
+alt="Fig. 72" /><br />Fig. 72
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 54 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54"></a>[pg 54]</span>
+
+  <p><i>Repp</i> in groups, floating over 6 ends and binding on the seventh
+  and eighth on 8 shafts straight draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_73"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig73.png"
+alt="Fig. 73" /><br />Fig. 73
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 55 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55"></a>[pg 55]</span>
+
+<h3>DOUBLE FACED FABRICS</h3>
+
+  <p>In this class we find either two systems of warp or of filling so
+  combined that only one will be visible on either side. The color on one
+  side is generally different from the other, and so may the interlacing be
+  of a different nature on face and back. In the latter case great care
+  must be exercised not to allow the weave on one side to disturb the one
+  on the other, and as a rule the points of interlacing of the first warp
+  or filling system are placed as much as possible in the middle of the
+  floats of the second. This will prevent either color or weave to be seen
+  on the opposite side, as the floats of one side will naturally lay
+  themselves over the binders of the other. The number of ends in a repeat
+  of the two weaves must either be alike or one a multiple of the
+  other.</p>
+
+<h4>Warp Effects</h4>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Levantine</i> on 8 shafts straight draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_74"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig74.png"
+alt="Fig. 74" /><br />Fig. 74
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 56 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56"></a>[pg 56]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge</i> 6-2 on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_75"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig75.png"
+alt="Fig. 75" /><br />Fig. 75
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c">8 <i>shaft satin</i> on 2 sections of 8 harness each.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_76"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig76.png"
+alt="Fig. 76" /><br />Fig. 76
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 57 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57"></a>[pg 57]</span>
+
+<p class="c">12 <i>shaft satin</i> on 2 sections of 12 shafts each.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_77"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig77.png"
+alt="Fig. 77" /><br />Fig. 77
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Cannele</i> of 8 picks on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_78"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig78.png"
+alt="Fig. 78" /><br />Fig. 78
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 58 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58"></a>[pg 58]</span>
+
+<h3>FILLING EFFECTS</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Serge</i> 5-1 on 6 harness straight draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_79"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig79.png"
+alt="Fig. 79" /><br />Fig. 79
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<p class="c">10 <i>harness satin</i> on 10 shafts skip draw.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_80"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig80.png"
+alt="Fig. 80" /><br />Fig. 80
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 59 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59"></a>[pg 59]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Repp</i> on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 threads per section.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_81"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig81.png"
+alt="Fig. 81" /><br />Fig. 81
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 60 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60"></a>[pg 60]</span>
+
+<h3>PEKINS</h3>
+
+  <p>With this name we designate fabrics in which stripes of a different
+  interlacing run in the direction of the warp. In combining these weaves
+  it is advantageous to have them contrast distinctly, for instance, a
+  short weave such as taffeta or Gros de Tours, with a longer and looser
+  one such as satin, sergé or cannele, also changes from warp to filling
+  effects. Care must be taken to arrange the joining of the two weaves so
+  that the last thread of one weave will cross the first thread of the
+  other. This will prevent the threads from either stripe to slide over
+  into the other, and so make a clean cut line.</p>
+
+<p class="c"><b>Pekin.</b> A stripe of</p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td class="r">2</td><td>dents of</td><td>8</td><td>ends each,</td><td>8 shaft Satin,</td><td>on 8</td><td>shafts</td><td>straight</td><td>draw.</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>12</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Taffeta</td><td class="c">" 4</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<a name="Fig_82"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig82.png"
+alt="Fig. 82" /><br />Fig. 82
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 61 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61"></a>[pg 61]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><b>Pekin</b>. A stripe of</p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>12</td><td>ends</td><td>Cannele</td><td>of</td><td>6 picks on 1st section of 4 shafts.</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>12</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Repp</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6 threads on 2d and 3d section of 2 shafts each.</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<a name="Fig_83"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig83.png"
+alt="Fig. 83" /><br />Fig. 83
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 62 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62"></a>[pg 62]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><b>Pekin.</b> A stripe of</p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>10</td><td>ends</td><td>5 leaf Satin</td><td>on the</td><td>1st</td><td>section of</td><td>5</td><td>shafts</td><td>straight</td><td>draw.</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="r">4</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Taffeta</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3d</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>18</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Serge 3-1, 1-1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2d</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<a name="Fig_84"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig84.png"
+alt="Fig. 84" /><br />Fig. 84
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 63 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63"></a>[pg 63]</span>
+
+<h3>BAYADÈRES</h3>
+
+  <p>While pekins are formed by warp stripes, bayadère shows us stripes of
+  different weaves running in the direction of the filling. The rules given
+  in the previous chapter as to the joining of the weaves will also apply
+  here. The warp which was raised on the last pick of the weave must stay
+  down wherever possible on the first pick of the following weave. The
+  number of shafts employed must go up evenly in the repeat of each one of
+  the weaves that go into the make up of the bayadère.</p>
+
+<p class="c"><b>Bayadère</b></p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>A stripe of</td><td>24</td><td>picks</td><td>Gros de Tours</td><td class="vc" rowspan="2">&nbsp;&nbsp;} on 8 shafts straight through.</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">8</td><td class="c">"</td><td>8-shaft Satin,</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<a name="Fig_85"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig85.png"
+alt="Fig. 85" /><br />Fig. 85
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 64 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64"></a>[pg 64]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><b>Bayadère</b></p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>A stripe of</td><td>18</td><td>picks</td><td>6-shaft Satin</td><td class="vc" rowspan="3">&nbsp;&nbsp;}<br />&nbsp;&nbsp;} on 6 shafts, straight draw.<br />&nbsp;&nbsp;}</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">6</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Serge 5-1,</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">4</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Taffeta,</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<a name="Fig_86"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig86.png"
+alt="Fig. 86" /><br />Fig. 86
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 65 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65"></a>[pg 65]</span>
+
+<h3>CHECKS AND PLAIDS</h3>
+
+  <p>If pekin and bayadère stripes are combined, we obtain checked fabrics,
+  and of these an endless variety and pleasing effects can be produced with
+  the aid of suitable color combinations.</p>
+
+<p class="c"><b>Check</b></p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td class="r">of 16</td><td>threads</td><td>and</td><td>12</td><td>picks</td><td>of</td><td>the 4 end broken twill,</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="r">and 16</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>12</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Royale of 8 threads,</td></tr>
+  <tr><td colspan="7" class="c">drawn on 4 sections of 4 shafts each.</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<a name="Fig_87"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig87.png"
+alt="Fig. 87" /><br />Fig. 87
+  </div>
+<hr class="short"/>
+
+<!-- Page 66 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66"></a>[pg 66]</span>
+
+<p class="c"><b>Check</b></p>
+
+  <div class="c">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>of</td><td>20</td><td>threads</td><td>and</td><td>16</td><td>picks</td><td>of</td><td>8-shaft Satin,</td></tr>
+  <tr><td class="c">"</td><td>20</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>16</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Taffeta,</td></tr>
+  <tr><td colspan="4">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">4</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Surah 3-1,</td></tr>
+  <tr><td colspan="8" class="c">drawn on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<a name="Fig_88"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig88.png"
+alt="Fig. 88" /><br />Fig. 88
+  </div>
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 67 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67"></a>[pg 67]</span>
+
+<h3>DECOMPOSITION</h3>
+
+  <p>Under the name of <i>Disposition</i> we comprise all those points and
+  details which we must ascertain before we can proceed with the
+  construction of a fabric. They are:</p>
+
+      <p class="i8"><b>1. The weave.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>2. Length and width of the cloth.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>3. The stock and the dyeing thereof.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>4. Reed calculation</b> (number of dents and ends per inch and total number of dents required).</p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>5. Drawing-in the warp in harness and reed.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>6. Texture and arrangement of warp</b> (warping ticket)</p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>7. Arrangement of harness.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>8. Reduction of filling.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>9. Calculation of warp and filling.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>10. Finishing.</b></p>
+      <p class="i8"><b>11. Calculation of cost.</b></p>
+
+<!-- Page 68 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68"></a>[pg 68]</span>
+
+<h3>1. THE WEAVE</h3>
+
+  <p>If a given sample is to be reproduced or imitated, it must be
+  analyzed, and the following hints will greatly facilitate this operation
+  to the beginner.</p>
+
+  <p>Cut the sample straight on two sides, and draw out a number of warp
+  and filling threads until there is a small fringe of perhaps ¼ of an
+  inch. This will allow a thread to be raised a little for examination,
+  without danger of its falling out of the fabric. In most cases it is
+  easier to dissect the filling side, that is, the interlacing of each
+  warp-thread in the threads of the filling system. With the help of the
+  microscope or counting glass we can easily determine over and under how
+  many picks that thread passes and the points of interlacing are
+  accordingly marked on designing paper. This being done for at least the
+  length of a repeat warpways, we take it out and examine the following
+  thread, and so on until the repeat filling-ways is complete. It is
+  advisable to ascertain how many picks ahead or back of the first examined
+  thread the next following one binds before taking the former out.</p>
+
+  <p>A knowledge of the construction of weaves as explained in the
+  foregoing chapters will enable us to determine the weave of a simple
+  pattern by merely raising a warp-thread with a needle on any point of
+  interlacing and counting off how many picks apart from this place it
+  makes an impression.</p>
+
+<h3>2. LENGTH AND WIDTH OF THE FABRIC</h3>
+
+  <p>To the length and width which the finished product is to have, we must
+  add a certain allowance for shrinkage and <i>taking up</i> of warp during
+  weaving. It may differ from one to ten per cent., according to the
+  texture and weave of the fabric, and can be ascertained with sufficient
+  accuracy by stretching out and measuring a thread of warp and filling and
+  comparing their length with the respective measurements of the sample to
+  be reproduced.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 69 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69"></a>[pg 69]</span>
+
+<h3>3. THE STOCK AND ITS DYE</h3>
+
+  <p>Under this heading we must give the particulars as to nature,
+  <i>twist</i>, <i>quality</i> and <i>size</i> of the silk, and the
+  directions for the dyeing, whether <i>bright</i> or <i>souple</i>, and in
+  what colors, also whether to be weighted or not.</p>
+
+  <p>The size is generally ascertained (in practical work) by comparing it
+  with other silk of which the exact count is known. Another method is to
+  count the number of cocoon threads which a thread of the sample contains,
+  adding to that 1/3 or ¼, according to the quality of the silk; the result
+  will be the count in deniers. To obtain it in drams, divide the latter
+  number by 17,3 as 1 dram is equal to 17,3 deniers.</p>
+
+  <p>Suppose we find 20 cocoon ends in a thread of silk: add 1/3, and we
+  have 26-2/3 deniers, which, divided by 17,3 make 1,54 drams.</p>
+
+  <p>As silk is always more or less uneven, it is safer to count the cocoon
+  fibers of several threads and to take average thereof.</p>
+
+  <p>It requires the experience of years to judge with any degree of
+  certainty as to the origin and quality of silk, whether it be
+  "classical," "extra," "sublime," etc.</p>
+
+  <p>There are machines wherewith to ascertain exactly the twist, that is,
+  the number of turns the silk has received in the throwing process.</p>
+
+  <p>In the dyeing we distinguish two great classes, of which the names
+  themselves give a good definition. "Bright" has a brilliant luster, while
+  "souple" has more of a dull, subdued appearance. To find out whether the
+  silk has been weighted in the dyeing process, we may compare it with
+  other silk of which the exact conditions are known, or we may burn a
+  small quantity of it. Unweighted silk does not burn readily and leaves a
+  residue of white ashes, while heavy weighted silk burns lively, leaving
+  black, charry ashes.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 70 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70"></a>[pg 70]</span>
+
+<h3>4. REED CALCULATION</h3>
+
+  <p>We count the number of repeats of the weave in a given space,
+  generally ¼ or ½ inch, and multiply this with the number of threads one
+  repeat contains, which gives us the reduction of the warp.</p>
+
+  <p>Suppose we had a taffeta, which, as we know, has only 2 ends to a
+  repeat, and counted 30 interlacings per ¼ inch on one pick; we would have
+  60 threads per ¼ inch or 240 per one inch. In this case the reed may be
+  80 by 3 or 60 by 4.</p>
+
+  <p>Another instance: In an 8-shaft satin we count 10 warp-threads, which
+  bind on the same pick in ¼ inch; this, multiplied by 8, equals 80 ends
+  per ¼, or 320 per one inch; the reed will be an 80 with 4 in a dent or a
+  64 by 5.</p>
+
+  <p>In short, the number of the reed is found by dividing the number of
+  warp-threads that are to go in one dent, in the number of ends per inch.
+  Sometimes, the reed marks are clearly visible in a sample by holding the
+  latter against the light. Silk fabrics move with very few exceptions
+  within the limits of 50 and 90 dents per inch.</p>
+
+  <p>To learn the full number of dents required for the width of the cloth,
+  simply multiply the dents per one inch with the width, adding a certain
+  allowance for shrinkage. The edges, of course, must also be taken in
+  consideration, and very often the dents that are taken up by the latter
+  are used to counter-balance that shrinkage.</p>
+
+<h3>5. DRAWING-IN THE WARP IN HARNESS AND REED</h3>
+
+  <p>Here we must specify the number of dents that contain the same number
+  of ends, and whether the latter are single or double, also the number of
+  shafts and the method of drawing-in.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 71 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71"></a>[pg 71]</span>
+
+<h3>6. WARPING TICKET</h3>
+
+  <p>To make out the warping ticket, we need to ascertain the total number
+  of ends, whether leased single or double, and the arrangement of the
+  colors.</p>
+
+<h3>7. HARNESS ARRANGEMENT</h3>
+
+  <p>This is governed by the number of ends to be drawn in and the
+  necessary shafts. If we have, for instance, 100 threads per inch to be
+  drawn on 4 shafts, we must give each shaft 25 heddles per inch. There are
+  generally between 25 and 45 heddles per inch on one shaft.</p>
+
+<h3>8. REDUCTION OF THE FILLING</h3>
+
+  <p>Here we state the number of picks per inch, give directions as to
+  doubling, if such is necessary, and if more than one color or shuttle is
+  used, the rotation thereof.</p>
+
+<h3>9. CALCULATION OF WARP AND FILLING</h3>
+
+  <p>The system adopted in this country for specifying the size of silk is
+  based on the weight in drams (avoirdupois) of a skein containing 1000
+  yards. A skein, thus weighing 5 drams, is technically called 5-dram silk.
+  The number of yards of 1-dram silk to a pound must accordingly be 256000.
+  The formulas for figuring the amount of silk required for a piece of
+  cloth are as follows:</p>
+
+<h4>Warp Calculation</h4>
+
+  <div class="blkquot">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td><i>Multiply:</i></td><td><u>Number of ends × length × count</u></td><td rowspan="2" class="vc">&nbsp;&nbsp;= lbs</td></tr>
+  <tr><td><i>Divide by:</i></td><td class="c">1000 yards × 256 drams</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 72 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72"></a>[pg 72]</span>
+
+<h4>Filling Calculation</h4>
+
+  <div class="blkquot">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td><i>Multiply:</i></td><td><u>Picks × xply × width × length of piece × count</u></td><td rowspan="2" class="vc">&nbsp;&nbsp;= lbs</td></tr>
+  <tr><td><i>Divide by:</i></td><td class="c">1000 yards × 256 drams</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="blkquot">
+  <p>The result in both cases will be in pounds.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <p>The system of grading the silk which is in vogue in Europe, and which
+  is employed by a number of mills on this side, is as follows:</p>
+
+  <table>
+  <tr><td class="r">1</td><td>skein of</td><td>500</td><td>meters,</td><td>weighing</td><td>0,05</td><td>grams</td><td>= 1</td><td>denier</td><td colspan="2">international</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>or 1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>476</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>0,053</td><td class="c">"</td><td> = 1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Turin</td><td>system</td></tr>
+  <tr><td>or 1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>476</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>0,051</td><td class="c">"</td><td>= 1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>Milan</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+  </table>
+
+  <p>The warp calculation, taking the international denier, would run:</p>
+
+  <div class="blkquot">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td><u>ends in warp × length × denier × 0,05 gram</u></td></tr>
+  <tr><td><i>divided by:</i></td><td class="c">500 meters</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="blkquot">
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>for the filling:</td><td><u>Picks per meter × xply × width × denier × 0,05 gram</u></td></tr>
+  <tr><td><i>divided by:</i></td><td class="c">500 meters</td></tr>
+  </table>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="blkquot">
+  <p>Result in metric weight, kilograms and grams.</p>
+  </div>
+
+<h3>10. FINISHING</h3>
+
+  <p>Give directions as to the process of finishing to which the goods are
+  to be subjected, whether to be pressed, calendered, sized, moiréd,
+  etc.</p>
+
+<h3>11. CALCULATION OF COST</h3>
+
+  <p>If all the foregoing conditions are ascertained, and a sample or a
+  piece of the fabric executed, it remains to the manufacturer to determine
+  the exact figure at which he can produce the article. That this must be
+  done with great accuracy is naturally of the utmost importance, and the
+  calculator
+<!-- Page 73 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73"></a>[pg 73]</span>
+  must know in the first place the raw
+  stock prices, and also be acquainted with the details of the
+  manufacturing process and the rates of wages paid therein. As a rule, the
+  manufacturer establishes a scale of prices covering all the items of
+  labor cost, mill expenses, etc., and uses this as a basis for his
+  calculations.</p>
+
+  <p>A rule or formula for this operation cannot very well be given, as the
+  methods vary in almost every establishment, each choosing the one best
+  adapted to its ideas or dictates of circumstances and conditions.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 74 Blank -->
+
+<!-- Page 75 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75"></a>[pg 75]</span>
+
+<h3>DISPOSITION 1</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Taffeta glacé</i></p>
+
+<a name="Fig_89"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig89.png"
+alt="Fig. 89" /><br />Fig. 89
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 76 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76"></a>[pg 76]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>&mdash;One piece 100 yards long, 18¾ inches wide.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Stock and Dye</b>&mdash;<i>Warp.</i>&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Organ., 24/26 deniers = 1,47 drams, brown, bright, 14/16 oz.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>&mdash;</td><td>Japan Tram, 28/30 deniers = 1,65 drams, gold, bright 14/16 oz.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>&mdash;</td><td>Per</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">70</td><td>dents</td><td>at 3 single ends.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td></td><td class="c">"</td><td>18¾</td><td class="c">"</td><td>1313</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td><td>add</td><td class="r">13</td><td class="c">"</td><td>= 1% for shrinkage</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"  class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">1326</td><td>dents</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>&mdash;1st edge,</td><td class="r">9</td><td>dents</td><td>at 3 double</td><td>ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>1308</td><td class="c">"</td><td>at 3 single</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">9</td><td class="c">"</td><td>at 3 double</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="c" colspan="5">on 6 shafts, straight through.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>&mdash;1st edge,</td><td class="r">27</td><td>double</td><td>ends,</td><td>brown.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>3924</td><td>single</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">27</td><td>double</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">4032</td><td>single</td><td>ends.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c" colspan="5">Length of warp 110 yards, including 10% for take up.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+    <tr><td><b>Harness</b>&mdash;6</td> <td>shafts,</td> <td>3978</td> <td>heddles</td> <td>per</td> <td>19</td> <td>inches.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">35</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reduction of Filling</b>&mdash;Per inch, 100/102 picks, 2 ends.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs =</td><td>4032 ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>110 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,47 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>4032×110×1,47×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> =  2,65 lbs., or 2 lbs. 10,4 oz.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<!-- Page 77 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77"></a>[pg 77]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs. =</td><td>100 yards</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>102 picks.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">&nbsp;</td><td>2 ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>19 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,65 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>108 (8% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>100×36×102×2×19×165×108</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 2,73 lbs., or 2 lbs. 11,7 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">36×1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<!-- Page 78 Blank -->
+
+<!-- Page 79 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79"></a>[pg 79]</span>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<h3>DISPOSITION 2</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Surah 3-1</i></p>
+
+<a name="Fig_90"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig90.png"
+alt="Fig. 90" /><br />Fig. 90
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 80 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80"></a>[pg 80]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>&mdash;1 piece 50 yards long, 23½ in. wide.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Stock and Dyeing</b>&mdash;<i>Warp.</i>&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Organ., 1,30 drams = 20/24 deniers, black, bright, 40/50% = 22/24 ozs.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>&mdash;</td><td>Cotton No. 120/2 black.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>&mdash;</td><td>Per</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">80</td><td>dents</td><td>at 2 single ends.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td></td><td class="c">"</td><td>23½</td><td class="c">inch</td><td>1880</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td><td>add</td><td class="r">36</td><td class="c">"</td><td>= 2% for shrinkage</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"  class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">1916</td><td>dents</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>&mdash;1st edge,</td><td class="r">8</td><td>dents</td><td>2 double</td><td>ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>1900</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2 single</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">8</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2 double</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="c" colspan="5">on 4 shafts, straight draw.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>&mdash;1st edge,</td><td class="r">16</td><td>double</td><td>ends,</td><td>black.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>3800</td><td>single</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">16</td><td>double</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">3864</td><td>single</td><td>ends.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c" colspan="5">Warp 54 yards long = 8% for take up.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+    <tr><td><b>Harness</b>&mdash;4</td><td>shafts,</td><td>3832</td><td>heddles</td><td>per</td> <td>24</td><td>inches.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">40</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reduction of Filling</b>&mdash;Per 1 inch, 120 picks, 1 end.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs =</td><td>4264 ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>54 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,30 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>3864×54×1,30×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> =  1,10 lbs., or 1 lb. 1,06 oz.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<!-- Page 81 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81"></a>[pg 81]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs. =</td><td>50 yards</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>120 picks.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>24 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">840 yards =</td><td>1 skein.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">(No. 120/2) 60 skeins =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>110 (10% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>50×36×120×24×110</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 3.14 lbs., or 3 lbs. 2.24 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">36×840×60×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<hr class = "short" />
+
+<!-- Page 82 Blank -->
+
+<!-- Page 83 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83"></a>[pg 83]</span>
+
+  <h3>DISPOSITION 3</h3>
+
+  <p class="c"><i>Satin Duchesse.</i></p>
+
+<a name="Fig_91"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig91.png"
+alt="Fig. 91" /><br />Fig. 91
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 84 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84"></a>[pg 84]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>&mdash;One warp 300 yards long, 10 pieces of 60 yards
+	23 inches wide, 2 pieces in width, with one cut edge.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Stock and Dyeing</b>&mdash;<i>Warp.</i>&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Organ., 1-55/100 drams, black, bright, 20/22 oz.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>&mdash;</td><td>Jap. Tram., 1-8/10 and 2-7/10 drams, black, souple, 40/44 oz.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+  <table>
+  <tr><td>We should use for this fabric 1 end filling, 5-thread, 4-5/10
+  drams, but as we have none of this size on hand, we take: 1 end, 2
+  thread, 1-8/10 drams, and 1 end, 3 thread, 2-7/10 drams.</td></tr></table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>&mdash;</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">66</td><td>dents</td><td>4 single ends.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td>46</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3036</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td><td>add</td><td class="r">54</td><td class="c">"</td><td>(1¾% shrinkage).</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="3"  class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">3090</td><td>dents</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>&mdash;</td><td rowspan="2" class="vcr">1st edge,</td><td>{</td><td class="r">2</td><td>dents</td><td>6×2,</td><td>black.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">13</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4×2,</td><td>white.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r" colspan="2">Ground,</td><td>1514</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4×1,</td><td>black.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td rowspan="4" class="vcr">Cut Edge</td><td>{</td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×2</td><td>black.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×4,</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">3</td><td class="c">"</td><td>empty.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×4,</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r" colspan="2">Ground,</td><td>1514</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4×1,</td><td >black.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td rowspan="2" class="vcr">2d edge,</td><td>{</td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×2,</td><td>black.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">13</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4×2,</td><td>white.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="7">Satin on 8 shafts, straight draw.<br />
+    Cross-thread for split edge on 3 shafts, see design.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>&mdash;</td><td class="vcr" rowspan="2">Edge,</td><td>{</td><td class="r">12/2</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">52/2</td><td>white.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r" colspan="2">Ground,</td><td>6056/1</td><td>black.</td><td>} twice over.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="vcr" rowspan="2">Edge,</td><td>{</td><td class="r">12/2</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>{</td><td class="r">52/2</td><td>white.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="6">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td colspan="5">
+		<table>
+		<tr><td>12208</td><td>ends</td><td>black,</td><td>{ 318 yards long.</td></tr>
+		<tr><td class="r">416</td><td class="c">"</td><td>white,</td><td>{ = 6% shrinkage.</td></tr>
+		</table>
+	</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="6">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="6" class="r">
+		<table>
+		<tr><td>2/4</td> <td>black</td> <td>for</td> <td>ground</td> <td>thread,</td> <td>300</td> <td>yards</td> <td>long.</td></tr>
+		<tr><td>2/4</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>whip</td><td class="c">"</td><td>360</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+		<tr><td colspan="8">each one on a separate little roll.</td></tr>
+		</table>
+	</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<!-- Page 85 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85"></a>[pg 85]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Harness</b>&mdash;8</td><td>shafts,</td><td>12368</td><td>heddles</td><td>47</td><td>in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">33</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<p class="i8"> for the split edge 3 shafts, of which one has only half a heddle.</p>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Filling</b>&mdash;Per 1 in., 80 picks, 2 ends (as described before).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs =</td><td>12224 ends, black (416 white).</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>318 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,55 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td>(416)</td><td><u>12224×318×1.55×104</u></td><td> = 24,477</td><td>lbs.</td><td>org.</td><td>black.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td></td><td class="c">1000×256×100</td><td class="r"> =  0,833</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>white.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs. =</td><td>300 yards</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>80 picks.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>47 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>4,5 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>108 (8% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>300×36×80×47×4,5×108</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 21,414 lbs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">36×1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<!-- Page 86 Blank -->
+
+<!-- Page 87 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87"></a>[pg 87]</span>
+
+<h3>DISPOSITION 4</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Armure Satinée</i></p>
+
+<a name="Fig_92"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig92.png"
+alt="Fig. 92" /><br />Fig. 92
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 88 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88"></a>[pg 88]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>&mdash;One piece 60 yards long, 19 in. wide.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Stock and Dye</b>&mdash;<i>Warp.</i>&mdash;</td><td>Jap. Organ., 1,48 drams, black, bright, 18/20 oz.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>&mdash;</td><td>3 threads Jap. Tram., 2,95 drams, black, bright, 24/26 oz.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>&mdash;</td><td>Per</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">60</td><td>dents</td><td>× 4 single ends.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td></td><td class="c">"</td><td>19</td><td class="c">"</td><td>1140</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">32</td><td class="c">"</td><td>(3% for shrinkage).</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"  class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">1172</td><td>dents</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>&mdash;1st edge,</td><td class="r">12</td><td>dents</td><td>× 4 double.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>1148</td><td class="c">"</td><td>× 4 single.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">12</td><td class="c">"</td><td>× 4 double.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="c" colspan="4">on 12 shafts, straight through,</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="c" colspan="4">or on 6 shafts, as design indicates.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>&mdash;1st edge,</td><td class="r">48/2</td><td>black.</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>4592/1</td><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">48/2</td><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">4784</td><td colspan="2">single ends 64 yards long.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="2">=6½% for take up.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Harness</b>&mdash;6</td><td>shafts,</td><td>4688</td><td>heddles</td><td>per</td> <td>19½</td><td>inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">40</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reduction of Filling</b>&mdash;Per 1 inch, 104 picks, 2 ends.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs =</td><td>4784 ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>64 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,48 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>4784×64×1,48×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 1,84 lbs., or 1 lb. 13,44 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<!-- Page 89 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89"></a>[pg 89]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs. =</td><td>60 yards</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>104 picks.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">&nbsp;</td><td>2 ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>19½ inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>2,95 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>108 (8% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>60×36×104×2×19,5×2,95×108</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 3,03 lbs., or 3 lbs. 0,48 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">36×1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<!-- Page 90 Blank -->
+
+<!-- Page 91 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91"></a>[pg 91]</span>
+
+<h3>DISPOSITION 5</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Surface Printed Armure.</i></p>
+
+<a name="Fig_93"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig93.png"
+alt="Fig. 93" /><br />Fig. 93
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 92 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92"></a>[pg 92]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>&mdash;One piece 50 yards long, 18½ in. wide.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Stock and Dyeing</b>&mdash;<i>Warp.</i>&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Organ., 1,50 drams, 24/28 deniers, white bright, pure dye.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>&mdash;</td><td>5 thread Ital. Tram., 4 drams, 13/14 deniers, white, bright, pure dye.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>&mdash;</td><td>Per</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">52</td><td>dents</td><td>2×2.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td></td><td class="c">"</td><td>18½</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">962</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">20</td><td class="c">"</td><td>(2% shrinkage).</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"  class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">982</td><td>dents.</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>&mdash;1st edge,</td><td class="r">7</td><td>dents</td><td>4×2 gros de Tours.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>968</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×2 armure</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">7</td><td class="c">"</td><td>4×2 gros de Tours.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="5" class="c">Armure ground on 12 shafts, straight draw.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="5" class="c">Gros de Tours, edges on 4 shafts.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>&mdash;</td><td>Ground warp, 54 yards. 1936/2 white.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Gros de Tours edges, 55 yards. 2×28/2 white, on separate rolls.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Total</td><td> . . . 3984 single ends.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Harness</b>&mdash;12</td><td>shafts,</td><td>1936</td><td>heddles</td><td>per</td> <td>18½</td><td>inches.</td><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">8-2/3</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="8">4 Shafts gros de Tours edges, with 28 heddles on each side.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reduction of Filling</b>&mdash;Per 1 inch, 96 picks, 1 end.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs =</td><td>3984 ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>54 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,50 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>3984×54×1,50×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 1,31 lbs., or 1 lb. 4,96 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<!-- Page 93 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93"></a>[pg 93]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs. =</td><td>50 yards</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>96 picks.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>19 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>4 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>108 (8% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>50×36×96×19×4×108</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 1,54 lbs., or 1 lb. 8,64 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">36×1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+  <p class="i8">After weaving, the small flower effects have to be printed on the
+  cloth.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<!-- Page 94 Blank -->
+
+<!-- Page 95 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95"></a>[pg 95]</span>
+
+<h3>DISPOSITION 6</h3>
+
+<p class="c"><i>Pekin</i>: 8 shaft satin and repp.</p>
+
+<a name="Fig_94"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig94.png"
+alt="Fig. 34" /><br />Fig. 34
+  </div>
+
+<!-- Page 96 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96"></a>[pg 96]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Length and Width</b>&mdash;1 piece 100 yards long, 20¼ in. wide.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td class="r">{ </td><td>Ital. Organ., 1-35/100 drams, black, bright, 20/22 oz.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td><b>Stock and Dyeing</b>&mdash;<i>Warp.</i> { </td><td>Ital. Organ., 1-15/100 drams, sky, bright, pure dye</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">{ </td><td>Cotton No. 100/2, scarlet.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r"><i>Filling.</i>&mdash;</td><td>3 threads, Jap. Tram., 2-8/10 drams, scarlet, bright, 14/16 oz.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+ 	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="6"></td><td>{ 6×1,</td><td>black</td><td>satin</td></tr>
+	<tr><td><b>Reed Calculation</b>&mdash;</td><td>Per</td><td class="c">1</td><td>inch,</td><td class="r">68</td><td>dents</td><td>{ 6×2,</td><td>colored</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="6"></td><td>{ 2×1,</td><td class="c">"</td><td>repp.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td></td><td class="c">"</td><td>20¼</td><td class="c">"</td><td>1377</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td><td>add</td><td class="r">23</td><td class="c">"</td><td colspan="3">(1½% for shrinkage).</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"  class="r">Total . . . </td><td class="r">1400</td><td>dents</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Drawing in</b>&mdash;1st edge,</td><td class="r">7</td><td>dents</td><td>6×2</td><td>satin.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">Ground,</td><td>34</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×2</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>10</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td class="c">"</td><td>&nbsp;} twice</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td>&nbsp;} over</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>10</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×2</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>39</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">5</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td>&nbsp;} twice</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">4</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td>&nbsp;} over</td><td>} 7 times</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">5</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td></td><td>} over</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>15</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">2</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>15</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">5</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td>&nbsp;} twice</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">4</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td>&nbsp;} over</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">5</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2×1</td><td>repp.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td class="r">5</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td>satin.</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>28</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×1</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">2d edge,</td><td class="r">7</td><td class="c">"</td><td>6×2</td><td class="c">"</td><td></td><td>}</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td>Satin</td><td>on</td><td>1st</td><td>section</td><td>of</td><td>8</td><td>shaft</td> <td>skip draw.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td>Binder</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2nd</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+    <tr><td>Repp</td><td class="c">"</td><td>3d</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td>2</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<!-- Page 97 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97"></a>[pg 97]</span>
+
+  <p>On each side of every repp stripe two ends of the satin warp must be
+  entered on the 2 binder shafts (2d section), to prevent the ends of the
+  satin to slide over into the repp stripes.</p>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warping Ticket</b>&mdash;<b>I.</b></td><td colspan="3"><i>Beam satin,</i> 106 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>1st edge,</td><td class="r">42/2</td><td>black.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Ground,</td><td class="r">204/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td><td rowspan="10">7 times over</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">12/2</td><td>sky.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">180/1</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">12/2</td><td>sky.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">234/1</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">48/2</td><td>sky.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">180/1</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">48/2</td><td>sky.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">30/1</td><td>black.</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">168/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2d edge,</td><td class="r">42/<font size="-2">2</font></td><td>"</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td colspan="4">
+		<table>
+		<tr><td>6132</td><td>single</td><td>ends</td><td>black.</td></tr>
+		<tr><td>1680</td><td>"</td><td>"</td><td>sky.</td></tr>
+		</table>
+	</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r"><b>II.</b></td><td colspan="3"><i>Beam repp</i>, 110 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">4/1</td><td>scarlet.</td><td>}</td><td rowspan="10">7 times over</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">4/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">4/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">10/1</td><td>"</td><td>}</td></tr>
+ 	<tr><td></td><td colspan="4">504 single ends scarlet cotton</td></tr>
+   </table><p />
+
+  <p>This warp has to be beamed in stripes. Make out a diagram for the
+  warper the same as shown in Fig. <a href="#Fig_95">95</a>.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 98 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98"></a>[pg 98]</span>
+
+<a name="Fig_95"></a>
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/fig95.png"
+alt="Fig. 95" /><br />Fig. 95
+  </div>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Harness</b>&mdash;Fig. <a href="#Fig_95">95</a> shows how to make a
+    diagram of a harness for a Pekin. The heddles are marked per one shaft.
+    As the repp stripes are only small ones, we use for the satin a full
+    harness, that is, one without open spaces for the repp stripe. All
+    together we have in the satin warp 6888 single and double ends to draw
+    in; of these 252 ends are used for binders, on both sides of the repp
+    stripes. Thus remain for</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td>8</td><td>shafts,</td><td>6636</td><td>heddles</td><td>per</td> <td>20½</td><td>inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>1</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="r">40</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">"</td><td class="c">1</td><td class="c">"</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Reduction of Filling</b>&mdash;Per inch, Per 1 inch, 144 picks, 1 end.</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Warp Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs =</td><td>6132 ends (1680 ends sky).</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>106 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>1,35 drams (sky 1,15 drams).</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>6132×106×1,35×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 3,56 lbs. for black, or 3 lbs. 8,96 ozs. 10,4 oz.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>1680×106×1,15×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 0,83 lbs. for sky, or 0 lbs. 13,28 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<!-- Page 99 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99"></a>[pg 99]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td class="r">? lbs =</td><td>504 ends.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 end =</td><td>110 yards.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">840 yards =</td><td>1 skein.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">(No. 100/2) 50 skeins = </td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>104 (4% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>504×110×104</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 1,37 lbs. scarlet cotton, or 1 lb. 5,92 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">840×50×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td><b>Filling Calculation</b>&mdash;? lbs. =</td><td>100 yards</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 yard =</td><td>36 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 inch =</td><td>144 picks.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1 pick =</td><td>21 inches.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">36 inches =</td><td>1 yard</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">1000 yards =</td><td>2,8 drams.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">256 drams =</td><td>1 lb.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="r">100 =</td><td>108 (8% waste).</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+	<table class="i8">
+	<tr><td><u>100×36×144×21×2,8×108</u></td><td rowspan="2" valign="middle"> = 3,57 lbs., or 3 lbs. 9,12 ozs.</td></tr>
+    <tr><td class="c">36×1000×256×100</td></tr>
+    </table><p />
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 100 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100"></a>[pg 100]</span>
+
+<h3>JACQUARD WEAVES</h3>
+
+  <p>Jacquard weaves usually show on a plain ground figure or flower
+  effects. To obtain these effects the ground is made of one weave, say
+  taffeta, while the figures or flowers are produced in another weave, say
+  satin.</p>
+
+  <p>We enter the warp through a jacquard harness, and according to the
+  repeat use a 200, 400, 600, 900, 1200, etc., hook jacquard machine, which
+  means 200, 400, 600, 900 and 1200 ends per repeat.</p>
+
+  <p>With a 600-hook machine a larger repeat can be produced than with a
+  499-hook machine. For instance, if we want to make a cloth the figures of
+  which are to be two inches apart, it is a two-inch repeat, and use the
+  count of 50/4 or 200 ends per inch, we can use a 400-hook machine, 2 in.
+  x 200 ends. But we can make this cloth also on a 1200-hook machine, only
+  the repeat must be designed three times. The advantage of using a
+  1200-hook machine with the count 50/4 is that 2, 3, 4, 6-inch repeats can
+  be produced, while with a 400-hook machine, only a 2-inch repeat can be
+  made.</p>
+
+  <p>There is no end to all the different weaves and the possible flower
+  and other pattern effects that can be made with the jacquard machine. For
+  a jacquard weaving plant the designing is the most important factor.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>BOX LOOM WEAVES INCLUDING CREPES</h3>
+
+  <p>Box looms are required for weaves such as bayadères, checks, plaids
+  (see pages 63-65), bengalines, crêpes, etc., where two or more shuttles
+  are needed to bring out the effect.</p>
+
+  <p>For the crêpes (crêpe de chine, crêpe georgette) only two shuttles are
+  needed, while plaids and other articles are made with more shuttles.</p>
+
+  <p>To weave such articles the loom or the lay must be fitted with two or
+  more shuttle boxes on one or both sides of the loom.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 101 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101"></a>[pg 101]</span>
+
+  <p>If a manufacturer decides to change plain looms to box looms or buy
+  new box looms, it is wise to get 4 × 4 boxes, or four shuttle boxes on
+  each side.</p>
+
+  <p>With these looms about everything can be made that is called for in
+  box-loom effects, and as styles change, it is wise to be prepared.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3>MANUFACTURING COSTS</h3>
+
+  <p>The calculator first ascertains for the warp: What silk will be used,
+  the cost of the same, total number of ends in the warps for the amount of
+  silk, cost of throwing, dyeing, winding, warping, twisting, entering, and
+  weaving.</p>
+
+  <p>Then the filling: Silk to be used, how much, cost of silk, cost of
+  throwing, dyeing, winding, doubling, quilling.</p>
+
+  <p>After this determine the cost of weaving, cloth picking, finishing,
+  factory costs, and selling expenses.</p>
+
+  <p>To-day most of the operations are paid by "piece work."</p>
+
+  <p>The calculator must always take into consideration that poor raw silk
+  or poor dyeing make production slow, increase the cost of labor, and also
+  that more waste will be made.</p>
+
+  <p>THROWING: Regular organ usually has 16 turns per inch in the first
+  twist and 14 turns to the inch in the second or reverse twist. Tram
+  receives only one twisting, about three turns to the inch.</p>
+
+  <p>As the warp twisting-in is paid for at so much per hundred or thousand
+  ends, no matter how short or long the warp is, it is a saving to make the
+  warps as long as possible, especially in raw, black and staple
+  colors.</p>
+
+  <p>The calculator must not forget the cost of entering the first warp in
+  a harness, also the reeding.</p>
+
+  <p>Most mills figure the cost of harness and reed in the expense
+  accounts. If plain and fancy goods are made an extra percentage should be
+  figured for the latter.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 102 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102"></a>[pg 102]</span>
+
+  <p>EXPENSES are figured differently, as almost every manufacturer has his
+  own system. If a mill makes only a few staple articles it is easy to put
+  down the cost of expenses. Say the mill has a production of 500,000 yards
+  per year, that the expense amounts to $35,000, the cost then is 7 cents
+  per yard.</p>
+
+  <p>Manufacturers making all kinds of goods sometimes figure the expenses
+  in percentage, say, for plain goods, with a few picks, like gros-grain,
+  peau de soie, etc., 10 per cent. per yard. Taffeta, satin, etc., having
+  more picks, 12½ per cent. per yard, and fancy and jacquard goods, 15 per
+  cent. per yard. In the expense account we include all charges except raw
+  silk, throwing, dyeing and piece work.</p>
+
+  <p>SELLING EXPENSES. Before a calculation is finished we must add the
+  selling expenses to the cost, also take account of the trade discount.
+  Small mills usually sell through a commission house, which pays all
+  expenses and charges a certain commission. Many large firms have their
+  own selling end, and some have their sales guaranteed by a commission
+  house or a bank.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 103 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103"></a>[pg 103]</span>
+
+<h3>CALCULATIONS</h3>
+
+  <p>The prices marked in the following calculations are about as in
+  "normal times." Absolutely correct piece work prices cannot be given as
+  different localities have different prices.</p>
+
+  <p>Calculations are usually made per 100 yards, 100-meter warps.</p>
+
+  <p>Most goods gain from 3 to 7 per cent. in weaving. That is, if we make
+  a warp of 300 meters for a satin and we obtain 315 yards of cloth, this
+  gain should not be calculated, as usually there is no account taken of
+  samples used in the selling department. But the loss in length should be
+  figured and taken account of on goods with a heavy rib, such as moiré,
+  faille, etc.</p>
+
+  <p>DISP. 7&mdash;A 3 1/3-inch repeat can be obtained with a 600-hook
+  jacquard machine, seven repeats in a width of 23 inches.</p>
+
+  <p>DISP. 8&mdash;Taffeta weave, but the two cotton picks must go in one
+  hole. This article can only be made with at least two shuttle boxes on
+  each side. For warping use a single and double cross reed, heavy cotton,
+  no knots must be tied.</p>
+
+  <p>DISP. 10&mdash;This article must be warped with as much tension as
+  possible and no knots should be tied in. Silk is to be delivered on
+  bobbins from throwster.</p>
+
+<h4>CANTON CREPE</h4>
+
+  <p>DISP. 9&mdash;Can also be made with Canton silk for filling and may be
+  called Canton crêpe. As Canton silk is much cheaper than Japan, the
+  manufacturer can use 4-thread Canton instead of 3-thread Japan for
+  filling at a little difference in cost, thus the cloth will be heavier,
+  but Canton silk is not as even and clean as Japan.</p>
+
+<!-- Page 104 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104"></a>[pg 104]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;TAFFETA GLACE Reed 70/3</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 1</td><td>Width 18¾ in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Warp&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Ex. Class 12/14</td><td class="r">$5.00</td><td>raw silk</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.60</td><td>throwing</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. brown bright</td><td class="r">.45</td><td>dyeing</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>16-oz.</td><td class="r">.15</td><td>winding</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>raw lbs. 2.60</td><td class="r">$6.20</td><td></td><td>$16.23</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;4032 at 3¢.</td><td class="r">1.21</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;3978 at 25¢. per 300 meters</td><td class="r">.33</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2">Filling&mdash;Jap. Tram. Best No. 1 13/15</td><td class="r">$4.25</td><td>raw silk</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.45</td><td>throwing</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2/2 ends 104 picks</td><td class="r">.45</td><td>dyeing</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.15</td><td>winding</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>gold bright 16 oz.</td><td class="r">.15</td><td>doubling</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.10</td><td>quilling</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>raw lbs. 2.73</td><td class="r">$5.55</td><td></td><td class="r">15.02</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">7.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">7.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$48.79</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">5% trade discount</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">7½% selling commission</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 87½</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.5576</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;SURAH 3-1  Reed 80/2</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 2</td><td>Width 36 in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Warp&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Ex. Class. 10/12</td><td class="r">$5.20</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.65</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. bright black</td><td class="r">.81</td><td>discount 15%</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>24 oz.</td><td class="r">.30</td><td>dyed 20%</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 3.36 </td><td class="r">$6.96</td><td></td><td>$23.39</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;5904 at 2¾¢.</td><td class="r">1.62</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;5872 at 35¢.&mdash;600 lb. warp</td><td class="r">.25</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2">Filling&mdash;cotton 120/1</td><td class="r">$1.25</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.10</td><td>dye</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>black 1 end 120 picks</td><td class="r">.08</td><td>winding</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.07</td><td>quilling</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 9.50</td><td class="r">$1.50</td><td></td><td class="r">14.25</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">12.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.50</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">2.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">7.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$62.01</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">5% discount</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">6% commission</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 89</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.6967</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<!-- Page 105 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105"></a>[pg 105]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;SATIN DUCHESSE Reed 66/4</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 3</td><td>Width 2×23 in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Warp&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14</td><td class="r">$5.00</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. black bright</td><td class="r">.73</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>22 oz.</td><td class="r">.21</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 8.50</td><td class="r">$6.54</td><td></td><td class="r">$55.59</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;12624 at 2¾¢</td><td class="r">3.47</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;12256 at 25¢.  600 meters</td><td class="r">.51</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2">Filling&mdash;Jap. Tram No. 1&mdash;14/16</td><td class="r">$4.00</td> <td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.40</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>black souple 44 oz.</td><td class="r">1.60</td><td>net</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.40</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>1/2 and 1/3 = 1/5  80 picks</td><td class="r">.40</td> <td>doubling</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.30</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 7.14</td><td class="r">$7.10</td><td></td><td class="r">50.69</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">13.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">2.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">2.50</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">8.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$135.76</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 89</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.7627</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;ARMURE SATIN  Reed 60/4</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 4</td><td>Width 26 in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">STOCK AND DYE</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Warp&mdash;</td><td>Jap. Ex. 12/14</td><td class="r">$4.75</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. black bright</td><td class="r">.64</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>20 oz.</td><td class="r">.19</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 4.30</td><td class="r">$6.18</td><td></td><td class="r">$26.57</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;6520 at 2¾¢.</td><td class="r">1.79</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;6424 at 25¢.  600 meters</td><td class="r">.27</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2">Filling&mdash;Jap. Tram No. 1  16/18</td><td class="r">$4.00</td> <td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.30</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>black bright 26 oz.</td><td class="r">.94</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.25</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2/3 ends 104 picks</td><td class="r">.25</td> <td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.17</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 6.80</td><td class="r">$5.91</td><td></td><td class="r">40.19</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">10.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">7.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$87.82</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 89</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.9867</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<!-- Page 106 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106"></a>[pg 106]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;PRINTED ARMURE  Reed 52/2/2</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 5</td><td>Width 18½ in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">STOCK AND DYE</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Warp&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14</td><td class="r">$5.00</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. white bright</td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>P.D.</td><td class="r">.23</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.12</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 2.62</td><td class="r">$5.95</td><td></td><td class="r">$15.59</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;3984/1 at 3¢.</td><td class="r">1.20</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;1992/2 at 30¢.  300 meters</td><td class="r">.20</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2">Filling&mdash;Ital. Tram. souple 13/14</td><td class="r">$4.50</td> <td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.30</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>white bright P.D.</td><td class="r">.23</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.10</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>1/5 end 96 picks</td><td class="r">.07</td> <td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="r">.17</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 3.08</td><td class="r">$5.20</td><td></td><td class="r">16.02</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">8.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">5.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">8.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$55.01</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 87½</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.6287</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<!-- Page 107 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107"></a>[pg 107]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;SATIN STRIPED REPS  Reed 60/62</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 6</td><td>Width 20¼ in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">STOCK AND DYE</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Warp&mdash;</td><td>Ital. Ex. Organ. 24/26</td><td class="r">$5.00</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>black bright 22 oz.</td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.73</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.21</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 3.56</td><td class="r">$6.54</td><td></td><td class="r">$23.28</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Ital. Ex. Organ. 18/20</td><td class="r">$5.20</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.65</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>sky bright P.D.</td><td class="r">.23</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.12</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. .83</td><td class="r">$6.20</td><td></td><td class="r">5.15</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Cotton 100/2</td><td class="r">$1.00</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.12</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.08</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>scarlet lbs. 1.37</td><td class="r">$1.20</td><td></td><td class="r">1.64</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;8316 at 4¢.</td><td class="r">3.32</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;7434 at 50¢.  300 meters</td><td class="r">1.24</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Filling&mdash;Jap. tram. No. 1 14/16</td><td class="r">$4.00</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.35</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>scarlet bright 16 oz. 1/3 ends</td><td class="r">.45</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.15</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>144 picks.   lbs. 3.57</td><td class="r">.10</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">$5.05</td><td></td><td class="r">18.04</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">12.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$66.67</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses 15%</td><td class="r">10.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$76.67</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 87½</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.8763</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<!-- Page 108 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108"></a>[pg 108]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;MESSALINE BROCADE Reed 60/3</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 7</td><td>Width 23 in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Warp&mdash;Jap. Ex. 13/15</td><td class="r">$4.50</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2-Thread navy bright 16 oz.</td><td class="r">.45</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.15</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 3.20</td><td class="r">$5.70</td><td></td><td class="r">$18.24</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;4320 at 3¢.</td><td class="r">1.30</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;4260 at 30¢.  300 meters</td><td class="r">.41</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Filling&mdash;Jap. Tram No. 1 13/15</td><td class="r">$4.00</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.35</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>emerald ex. bright dye 24 oz.</td><td class="r">.95</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.25</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>1/3 ends  100 picks</td><td class="r">.15</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 2.50</td><td class="r">$5.70</td><td></td><td class="r">14.25</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">9.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$45.20</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses 15%</td><td class="r">6.78</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$51.98</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 87½</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.5941</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;BENGALINE Reed 72/2 by 1 single; 1 double</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 8</td><td>Width 36 in.</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Warp&mdash;Jap. ex. 13/15</td><td class="r">$4.50</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2-Thread Organ. black bright</td><td class="r">.64</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>20 oz.</td><td class="r">.19</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 5.77</td><td class="r">$5.93</td><td></td><td class="r">$34.22</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;7964 at 2¾¢.</td><td class="r">2.19</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;5296 at 30¢.  600 meters</td><td class="r">.27</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2">Filling&mdash;56 picks by</td><td class="r">$4.50</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>5 organ. 2 Cotton</td><td class="r">.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.64</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.19</td><td class="r">.45</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.12</td><td class="r">.10</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>40 picks Organ. as warp</td><td class="r">$6.05</td><td class="r">.08</td><td class="r">6.05</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td colspan="2">lbs. 1</td><td class="r">.07</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td colspan="2">16 picks black cotton 15/4</td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td colspan="2">lbs. 22.50</td><td class="r">$ .70</td><td class="r">15.75</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">12.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.50</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing</td><td class="r">3.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">8.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$82.98</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 91</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.9119</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<!-- Page 109 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109"></a>[pg 109]</span>
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Article&mdash;CREPE DE CHINE (Taffeta weave)  Reed 60/2/2</td></tr>
+	<tr><td class="t">Disp. 9</td><td>Width 40 in.<br />44½ in. in reed</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Warp&mdash;Jap. Ex. Grege 20/22</td><td class="r">$4.50</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.05</td><td>winding</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2% waste lbs. 5.60</td><td class="r">$4.55</td><td></td><td class="r">$25.48</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;5340/2 at 2½¢.</td><td class="r">2.67</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;5340/2 at 25¢.  600 meters</td><td class="r">.23</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2">Filling&mdash;Jap. No. 1 13/15</td><td class="r"></td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>4 ends hard twist 60 turns</td><td class="r">$4.00</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">1.25</td><td>throwing</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>84 picks by 2 right, 2 left twist</td><td class="r">0.05</td><td>quilling</td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>25% waste and shrinkage</td><td class="r">$5.30</td><td></td><td class="r"></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td colspan="3">lbs. 6.00</td><td class="r">31.80</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">9.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing and dyeing</td><td class="r">5.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses</td><td class="r">7.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$82.18</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">5% discount</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">5% selling expense</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 90</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $0.9131</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+ <hr class="short" />
+
+	<table>
+	<tr><td>Article&mdash;</td><td colspan="3">CREPE GEORGETTE  Reed 50/2</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td colspan="3">(Taffeta weave) by 1 right, 1 left twist</td></tr>
+	<tr><td>Disp. 10</td><td>Width 40 in.  47 in. in reed</td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>Warp&mdash;Ital. Ex. Class 16/18 Raw</td><td class="r">$5.20</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">1.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>2-Thread hardtwist 75 turns</td><td class="r">$6.80</td><td></td><td class="r">$36.72</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">30% shrinkage and waste lbs. 5.40</td><td class="r"></td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Warping&mdash;4640/1  30/2  4760 at 4¢.</td><td class="r">1.90</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Twisting&mdash;4700 at 50¢. 600 meters</td><td class="r">.40</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Filling&mdash;Same silk as warp</td><td class="r"></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>100 picks by 2 right, 2 left twist</td><td class="r">$5.20</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">1.60</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">.10</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td></td><td></td></tr>
+	<tr><td></td><td>lbs. 5.00</td><td class="r">$6.90</td><td></td><td class="r">34.50</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Weaving</td><td class="r">15.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Picking</td><td class="r">1.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Finishing and dyeing</td><td class="r">6.00</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$95.52</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4">Expenses 12½%</td><td class="r">11.94</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="4"></td><td class="r">$107.46</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Divide by 87½</td></tr>
+	<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="3">Cost per yard = $1.2281</td></tr>
+	</table><p />
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 110 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110"></a>[pg 110]</span>
+
+<h3>CALCULATION BLANK</h3>
+
+<pre>
+
+      ARTICLE                                     REED
+      ---------------------------------------------------------------------
+      DISP                                        WIDTH
+      ---------------------------------------------------------------------
+      WARP
+      ---------------------------------------------------------------------
+                                                  |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+                                                  |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+                                                  |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+                                                  |   |   |   |   |
+      WARPING                                     |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+      TWISTING                                    |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+      FILLING                                     |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+                                                  |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+                                                  |   |   |   |   |
+      WEAVING                                     |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+      PICKING                                     |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+      FINISHING                                   |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+      EXPENSES                                    |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+                                                  |   |   |   |   |
+                                                  |   |   |   |   |
+      --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+
+                            PRICE PER YARD
+
+</pre>
+
+<hr />
+
+<!-- Page 111 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111"></a>[pg 111]</span>
+
+<h3>INDEX</h3>
+
+      <p>DRAWING-IN, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Straight Draws, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Skip Draws, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Point Draws, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Section Draws, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></p>
+      <p>THE WEAVES AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">The Taffeta Weave, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Gros de Tours Weaves, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Serge Weaves, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Twill Weaves, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></p>
+      <p>FILLING EFFECTS <a href="#Page_21">21</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Satin de Lyon, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Levantine, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Polonaise, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Serge grosse coté, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Serge Romaine, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Serge, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></p>
+      <p>WARP EFFECTS, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Levantine, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></p>
+      <p>EVENSIDED TWILLS, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Surah, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Croise, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></p>
+      <p>POINTED TWILLS, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></p>
+      <p>SATIN WEAVES, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Satine de Chine, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Satin Merveilleux, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">7 Harness Satin, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Duchesse, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></p>
+      <p>IRREGULAR SATINS, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Satin Ture, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Satin à la Reine, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></p>
+      <p>DERIVATIVE WEAVES, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">From the Taffeta, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">From the Twills, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">From the Satin Weave, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Cannele and Repp Weaves, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></p>
+      <p>DOUBLE FACED FABRICS, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Warp Effects, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></p>
+      <p>FILLING EFFECTS, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Pekins, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Bayadères, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></p>
+
+<!-- Page 112 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112"></a>[pg 112]</span>
+      <p class="i2">Checks and Plaids, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></p>
+      <p>DECOMPOSITION, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">The Weave, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Length and Width of the Fabric, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">The Stock and Its Dye, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Reed Calculation, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Drawing-in the Warp in Harness and Reed, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Warping Ticket, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Harness Arrangement, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Reduction of the Filling, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Calculation of Warp and Filling, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Finishing, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Calculation of Cost, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></p>
+      <p>DISPOSITIONS, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></p>
+      <p>JACQUARD WEAVES, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Box Loom Weaves Including Crêpes, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Manufacturing Costs, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></p>
+      <p>CALCULATIONS, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></p>
+      <p class="i2">Calculation Blank, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></p>
+
+<!-- Page 113 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113"></a>[pg 113]</span>
+
+<div style="margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%;">
+
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal; line-height:1.75em;">
+<span style="font-size:150%;">OTHER BOOKS</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:60%;">Published by</span><br />
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+<p class="c">373 Fourth Avenue&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;New York.</p>
+
+<hr />
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+<h1 style="font-weight:normal; line-height:1.75em;">
+<span style="font-size:100%;">THE AMERICAN SILK JOURNAL</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+  <p>Established 1882. A monthly magazine devoted exclusively to dress
+  silks, ribbons, and all silken materials, reflecting the progress of mill
+  and market, fashions, trade events and news. Published on the first of
+  each month.</p>
+
+  <p>Subscription: United States, $3; Canada, $3.50; Foreign, $4 a
+  year.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:100%;">SERIVALOR</span><br />
+<span style="font-size:80%;">or the True Value of Raw Silk</span><br />
+</h1>
+<h3>By ADOLF ROSENZWEIG,</h3>
+
+  <p class="c">The great international authority on silk.</p>
+
+  <p>A practical and logical
+  system of standardizing raw silks. Price, $4.25 postpaid.</p>
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+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:100%;">DICTIONARY OF SILK TERMS</span><br />
+</h1>
+
+  <p>The most complete and authentic dictionary ever published on silk
+  terms, from the raw silk to the finished broad and narrow silks,
+  including weaves, styles, patterns, effects, colors, trade-marks, etc.
+  Bound in cloth, 93 pages, price, $1.50 postpaid.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:100%;">COLOR VALUE</span><br />
+</h1>
+<h3>By C.R. CLIFFORD.</h3>
+
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+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h1 style="font-weight:normal;">
+<span style="font-size:100%;">PERIOD FURNISHINGS</span><br />
+</h1>
+<h3>By C.R. CLIFFORD.</h3>
+
+  <p>An encyclopedia of furnishings, decorations, furniture. Contains 2,731
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+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Theory Of Silk Weaving, by Arnold Wolfensberger
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+Project Gutenberg's Theory Of Silk Weaving, by Arnold Wolfensberger
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Theory Of Silk Weaving
+
+Author: Arnold Wolfensberger
+
+Release Date: January 5, 2005 [EBook #14600]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THEORY OF SILK WEAVING ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Stan Goodman, Keith Edkins and the PG Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+
+
+                                                                   [Page 1]
+THEORY OF SILK WEAVING
+
+
+                                                                   [Page 3]
+THEORY OF SILK WEAVING
+
+A Treatise on the Construction and Application of Weaves, and the
+Decomposition and Calculation of Broad and Narrow, Plain, Novelty and
+Jacquard Silk Fabrics
+
+Containing 95 Plates
+
+_By_ ARNOLD WOLFENSBERGER
+
+Graduate of the Textile Institute of Zurich, Switzerland
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Second Revised and Enlarged Edition
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NEW YORK
+
+_Issued by_ THE AMERICAN SILK JOURNAL
+
+CLIFFORD & LAWTON
+
+_Publishers_
+
+_1921_
+
+                                                                   [Page 4]
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+COPYRIGHT. 1921. by CLIFFORD & LAWTON
+
+_All rights reserved_
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+GROLIER CRAFT PRESS, Printers. 229 West Twenty-eighth Street, New York City
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                   [Page 5]
+PREFACE
+
+The silk industry of America has of late years rapidly advanced to the
+front rank among the great textile industries of the world. It may indeed
+be proud of this position, to which that enterprising spirit and untiring
+energy peculiar to our nation, combined with our great technical and
+natural resources, has brought it.
+
+That we are, on the other hand, not yet at the height of perfection we are
+also compelled to acknowledge, but if we consider the short space of time
+that the American industry has required for its development, as compared to
+the decades, almost centuries, to which some of the great European silk
+centers can look back, the fact is neither surprising nor discouraging.
+
+While it must not be our aim to imitate or copy their ways, inasmuch as out
+conditions and circumstances are quite different from theirs, we may still
+profitably study their methods in order to overcome our deficiencies.
+
+The greatest advantage which our competitors derive from such a long
+existence consists in having at their disposal a force of skilful, trained
+help. The manufacturers, appreciating the importance of this factor, make
+great efforts and pecuniary sacrifices to elevate and maintain the high
+standard of their industry.
+
+For instance, they support textile schools and lecture courses, where young
+men can acquire a thorough technical education and equip themselves for a
+career of usefulness, thereby serving their own interests and at the same
+time furthering those of their chosen profession.
+
+                                                                   [Page 6]
+This beneficial influence cannot fail to exert itself from the standard of
+the higher employer down to that of the weaver, who would naturally take
+more pains and interest in his work than if he were a mere mechanical
+appendage to his loom in order to keep it in motion.
+
+Very little has been done in his country for technical education as far as
+the silk industry is concerned, and it was on this special branch, that
+prompted the author to offer in the present little work a treatise on the
+theory of shaft weaving for broad silks and ribbons.
+
+It is divided into three principal parts:
+
+  #1st. Drawing-in the warp in the harness.
+  2nd. The weaves and their application.
+  3rd. Decomposition or analysis of the cloth.#
+
+To the foregoing there have been added in the revised and enlarged edition
+several additional parts covering the following: JACQUARD WEAVES, BOX LOOM
+WEAVES, including CREPES, and COST CALCULATIONS for plain and fancy weaves.
+
+The subject while condensed, is made as clear and comprehensible as
+possible, and to many desirous of increasing their knowledge in this
+direction, this should prove a valuable help.
+
+The author, through the medium of this work, hopes to win the approval and
+encouragement of the manufacturers, and will feel amply repaid should his
+efforts tend to develop a deeper interest in the "Queen of Textiles."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                   [Page 7]
+THEORY OF SILK WEAVING
+
+DRAWING-IN
+
+With this term we designate the operation preceding the weaving, by which
+all the warp-threads are drawn through the heddles of the harness.
+
+The order in which this is done varies according to the weave and the
+nature of the fabric to be produced; so we distinguish:
+
+  #Straight draws,
+  Skip draws,
+  Point draws,
+  Section draws.#
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+STRAIGHT DRAWS
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 1]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                   [Page 8]
+[Illustration: Fig. 2]
+
+These form the simplest and most common method of drawing-in. We begin with
+the first heddle on the left side of the shaft _nearest to the warp-beam_,
+then take the first heddle of second shaft and so on until all the shafts
+the set contains are used in rotation. This completes one "draw," and this
+operation is repeated until all the warp-threads are taken up.
+
+The method of making the shaft nearest to the warp-beam the first, is
+almost universal with the silk business and is technically called
+_drawing-in from back to front_.
+
+The opposite, or drawing in from _front to rear_, is used occasionally,
+however, and in this case makes the first heddle on the left hand side of
+the front shaft No. 1.
+
+The making out of the _Drawing-in Draft_, which must indicate the
+arrangement or the rotation in which the warp-threads are drawn in, can be
+done in various ways, of which we will mention the two most popular
+methods. The first is by using common designing paper, and indicating the
+rotation by dots. The horizonal rows of squares represent the shafts, the
+vertical rows the warp-threads. Fig. 1 shows four repeats of a straight
+draw on six harness marked out according to this idea. A second method is
+to use paper ruled horizontally, the lines representing the shafts; and to
+draw vertical lines for the warp-threads. The latter are made to stop on
+                                                                   [Page 9]
+the lines bearing the number of the shafts into which the respective
+threads are to be drawn. Fig. 2 is such a draft, illustrating six repeats
+of a draw on four harness from "Front to Rear."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SKIP DRAWS
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 3]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 4]
+
+The draws coming under this heading are used very extensively in silk
+weaving, especially for fabrics requiring a heavy warp and a large number
+of shafts. Enter first the odd and then the even shafts. An 8 harness draw
+of this kind, of which three repeats are shown in Fig. 3, runs as follows:
+1, 3, 5, 7, 2, 4, 6, 8.
+
+Fig. 4 is a 12 harness draw of the same class.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+POINT DRAWS
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 5]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 10]
+[Illustration: Fig. 6]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 7]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 8]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 9]
+
+                                                                  [Page 11]
+Point draws are a combination of a regular straight draw from back to front
+and one from front to back, the first and the last shafts only being used
+once, while the rest receive two ends each in one repeat of the draw. Fig.
+5 illustrates a regular point draw in 2 repeats on 10 shafts. It will be
+seen that 14 ends make a repeat; in fact, the number of warp-threads
+required for one draw will always be double the number of harness less 2,
+hence a 12 harness regular point draw will require 22 warp-threads for a
+repeat.
+
+The drawing-in draft illustrated in Fig. 6 is a slight variation of the
+regular point draw; it consists, as will be seen, of a draw from back to
+front, and also a full one from front to back, there by causing a _double
+point_.
+
+Another change from the regular point draw is illustrated in Figs. 7 and 8;
+this class may be called _Broken point draws_, because a new draw is begun
+before the other one is complete. Fig. 9 also comes in this class and
+represents a _zigzag draw_ on 10 harness.
+
+The drawing-in drafts which we have described under the head of "Point
+draws," are used mostly to obtain the various pointed and zigzag effects.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SECTION DRAWS
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 10]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 12]
+[Illustration: Fig. 11]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 12]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 13]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 14]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 13]
+[Illustration: Fig. 15]
+
+This division of drawing-in drafts is used extensively in silk
+manufacturing; for instance, in all fabrics having a ground warp and a
+binder warp, also in double-face goods, or where two different weaves are
+combined in one effect.
+
+One or more threads are drawn on the first section, then one or more on a
+second and third, if the harness is divided in so many sets.
+
+The following examples will illustrate the principle of these draws.
+
+In Fig. 10, shafts 1, 2, 3, 4 from the first set, shafts 5 and 6 the
+second, 8 threads are drawn straight on the first, then 2 on the second
+section.
+
+Fig. 11, first set shafts 1 to 6 inclusive, second set shafts 7 and 8.
+
+Fig. 12 is drawn end and end on two sections having 8 shafts each.
+
+Figs. 13, 14 and 15, while not strictly belonging to the class of section
+draws, may, however, be considered under this heading. The idea is to draw
+a certain number of ends in one part of the harness and another group in
+another part, be it straight, point or skip, which will cause the effect on
+the cloth to be accordingly transposed or broken up.
+
+                                                                  [Page 15]
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE WEAVES AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION
+
+In any woven fabric we distinguish two systems of threads, the _Warp or
+Chain_, running lengthways in the cloth, and the _Filling or Weft_,
+crossing the former at right angles.
+
+This crossing or interlacing consists of every individual warp-thread being
+placed alternately under and over one or more threads of the filling
+system. The arrangement of this interlacing is technically called the
+_Weave_, and the variety in which the points of crossing can be distributed
+is practically endless.
+
+It is principally the weave that lends to a fabric its character,
+influenced, of course, by the material used, the size and tension of the
+threads and the combination of the colors.
+
+The weaves are divided into three main classes: _the Foundation weaves_. In
+the silk business they are known under the following names:
+
+  #The Taffeta Weave,
+  The Serge Weave,
+  The Satin Weave.#
+
+In the foundation weaves each thread effects only one crossing in one
+repeat of the weave, and the points of interlacing occur in a given
+rotation. A repeat in the foundation weaves comprises the same number of
+warp-threads as of _picks_ or filling threads, and if this number is 8, for
+                                                                  [Page 16]
+instance, the weave is called an 8-shaft or an 8-harness weave. In marking
+out a weave, the warp-threads are represented by vertical lines, the
+filling by horizontal ones, or in each case by the space between these
+lines. The places where a warp-thread lies over the filling are marked with
+paint or simply with a cross. In a similar manner we mark out the _chain
+draft_, which indicates the rotation in which the shafts are raised.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 17]
+THE TAFFETA WEAVE
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 16]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 17]
+
+                                                                  [Page 18]
+This is the simplest and oldest method of interlacing. The odd numbers of
+warp-threads cross the even numbers after every pick; hence of two
+warp-threads one will always go over the first pick and under the second,
+and the other end under the first and over the second pick. Taffeta cloth,
+therefore, has the same appearance on both sides, and in cotton and wool
+weaving this weave is technically--and properly indeed--called the _Plain
+Weave_. It has the smallest repeat, 2 warp-threads and 2 picks, and the
+exchanging of warp and filling is the most frequent possible. The cloth
+thus produced is firmer and stronger than that obtained with any other
+weave.
+
+Fig. 16 is a taffeta on 4 shafts straight draw, the draft executed in the
+manner which we have already mentioned in explaining the drawing-in drafts.
+
+Fig. 17 on common designing paper, illustrates a taffeta made on 8-harness,
+skip draw.
+
+Be it mentioned that the drawing-in draft and the chain draft will be added
+throughout this work, the former over the weave to correspond with the
+respective warp-threads, the latter to the right of the drawing-in draft.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 19]
+GROS DE TOURS WEAVES
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 18]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 19]
+
+In this weave the working of the warp is the same as in taffeta, except
+that instead of one pick, two or more are inserted in the same shed. It is
+mostly used in selvedges, where it serves to give more firmness to the edge
+of an otherwise loosely woven cloth, and prevents the weaving ahead of the
+edge in a tight weave. Gros de Tours is sometimes used, especially when
+cotton or wool filling is employed, with a view to lay two picks nicely
+side by side, whereas a thread entered two ply with the taffeta weave will
+always receive some twist, which may disturb the perfect evenness of the
+fabric.
+
+Fig. 18 is a Gros de Tours with two picks on four harness straight through.
+
+Fig. 19 illustrates this weave with three picks drawn end and end on two
+sections of four shafts each.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 20]
+SERGE or TWILL WEAVES
+
+While the taffeta weave produces either an entirely smooth fabric, or one
+with a distinct transverse rib as in gros-grain, the twill weave forms
+diagonal lines on the cloth, running either from left to right or from
+right to left.
+
+To make a twill, not less than three ends and three picks are required, of
+which each thread floats over two of the other system and interlaces with
+the third. The rotation of the interlacing is always consecutive, that is
+it moves with each succeeding pick one thread to the right (or to the left
+if the lines are to run in that direction). If warp and filling have the
+same texture, that is the same number of threads in a given space, the
+twill lines will form an angle of 45 deg.; if the warp stands closer than the
+filling, the incline will be steeper, and in the opposite case the angle
+will approach more the horizontal.
+
+The weaves can be expressed in numbers, for instance: the 3-end twill warp
+effect would be marked 2-1, which indicates that each warp-thread goes over
+two and under one pick.
+
+Twill weaves are called _evensided_ when the arrangement of "warp up" and
+"filling up" are evenly balanced, and _unevensided_ if either warp or
+filling predominate on the face of the fabric; the latter class is
+therefore subdivided in _Warp effects_ and _Filling effects_.
+
+In the following a number of serge weaves are illustrated, the French
+designations being added in some cases, as they are still extensively used
+in the trade.
+
+                                                                  [Page 21]
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+FILLING EFFECTS
+
+_Satin de Lyon,_ 2-1.
+
+On 6 harness straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 20]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Levantine,_ 3-1<h/5>
+
+On 8 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 21]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 22]
+_Polonaise,_ 5-1
+
+On 12 harness skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 22]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Serge grosse cote,_ 7-1
+
+On 8 shafts straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 23]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 23]
+_Serge remaine,_ 6-2
+
+On 8 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 24]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Serge,_ 5-1, 1-1.
+
+On 8 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 25]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 24]
+_Serge,_ 4-2, 1-1, 1-1.
+
+On 10 harness straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 26]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Serge,_ 7-1, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1.
+
+On 16 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 27]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 25]
+WARP EFFECTS
+
+_Levantine,_ 3-1.
+
+On 4 shafts straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 28]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Serge,_ 5-1, 1-1.
+
+On 8 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 29]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 26]
+EVENSIDED TWILLS
+
+_Surah,_ 2-2
+
+On 4 shafts straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 30]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Croise,_ 3-3, 2-2, 1-1.
+
+On 12 shafts straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 31]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 27]
+_Serge,_ 7-7, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1
+
+On 20 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 32]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+POINTED TWILLS
+
+in the direction of the filling and also of the warp.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 33]
+
+On 4 shafts point draw, weave 3-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 28]
+[Illustration: Fig. 34]
+
+    On 6 shafts point draw, drawn as follows:
+
+    Eighteen ends from back to front and 4 ends from front to rear, weave
+    5-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 35]
+
+On 8 shafts pointed draw, weave 5-1, 1-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 29]
+[Illustration: Fig. 36]
+
+On 10 shafts, with weave 3-3, drawn as follows:
+
+  7 threads from back to front.
+  3    "      "  front to rear.
+  6    "      "  back to front.
+  2    "      "  front to rear.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 37]
+
+On 6 shafts straight draw, pointed weave 5-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 30]
+[Illustration: Fig. 38]
+
+On 8 shafts straight through, pointed weave 5-1, 1-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 39]
+
+_Broken pointed twill_, on 8 harness.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 31]
+[Illustration: Fig. 40]
+
+On 6 shafts point draw, pointed weave 5-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 41]
+
+On 8 shafts point draw, pointed weave 5-1, 1-1.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 32]
+[Illustration: Fig. 42]
+
+_Fancy twill_, on 16 shafts straight draw.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SATIN WEAVES
+
+The distinct diagonal lines which characterize the class of weaves
+explained in the previous chapter are absent in the satin weaves; and while
+the interlacing in the former is done in a strictly consecutive order, we
+endeavor to scatter the points of stitching in the latter as much as
+possible, in order to create an entirely smooth and brilliant surface on
+                                                                  [Page 33]
+the cloth.
+
+In all satins the number of ends in a repeat is the same in warp and
+filling.
+
+The lowest repeat of a regular satin comprises five threads of each system,
+and the interlacing is done in the following order:
+
+  The 1st pick with the 1st warp-thread
+   "  2d   "       "    3d      "
+   "  3d   "       "    5th     "
+   "  4th  "       "    2d      "
+   "  5th  "       "    4th     "
+
+Fig. 43 illustrates this weave. An examination of the rotation, as given
+above, will show that every warp-thread intersects two picks apart from its
+neighbor. The number "2" is in this case what is technically known as the
+_counter_, that is the number which indicates the points of interlacing by
+adding it to number 1 and continuing so until all the warp-threads are
+taken up.
+
+The following is the rule to find the counter for any regular satin:
+
+Divide the number of harness into two parts, which must neither be equal
+nor have a common divisor. Any of these two numbers can be used for
+counting off, but usually the smaller one is taken. According to this rule
+we obtain a regular satin
+
+  On  5 harness with counter 2
+   "  7    "          "      2 or 3
+   "  8    "          "      3
+   "  9    "          "      2 or 4
+   " 10    "          "      3
+   " 11    "          "      2, 3, 4 or 5
+   " 12    "          "      5
+   " 13    "          "      2, 3, 4, 5 or 6
+   " 14    "          "      3 or 5
+   " 15    "          "      2, 4 or 7
+   " 16    "          "      3, 5 or 7.
+
+                                                                  [Page 34]
+The 4 harness broken twill, Fig. 53, is sometimes classed among the satins.
+
+The 6 harness satin, Fig. 54, is irregular; as a counter cannot be derived
+from number 6 by the given rule. The rotation generally used is 1, 3, 6, 4,
+2, 5.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Regular Satins
+
+_5 harness Satin, "Satin de Chine."_
+
+Straight draw, counter 2.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 43]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_7 harness Satin, "Satin Merveilleux."_
+
+Skip draw, counter 2.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 44]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 35]
+_7 harness satin_
+
+Straight draw, counter 3.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 45]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_8 harness satin "Duchese"_
+
+Skip draw, counter 3.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 46]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 36]
+_9 harness satin_
+
+Straight draw, counter 4.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 47]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_10 harness satin_
+
+Straight draw, counter 3.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 48]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 37]
+_11 harness satin_
+
+Skip draw, counter 5.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 49]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_12 harness satin_
+
+Skip draw, counter 5.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 50]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 38]
+_16 harness satin_
+
+On 2 sections of 8 shafts each, drawn end and end, counter 7.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 51]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 39]
+_8 harness satin, warp effect._
+
+Straight draw, counter 3.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 52]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+IRREGULAR SATINS
+
+_Satin Turc._
+
+On 4 shafts straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 53]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 40]
+_Satin a la Reine_
+
+On 6 shafts straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 54]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 41]
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+DERIVATIVE WEAVES
+
+#1. From the Taffeta#
+
+_Royale_ is a modification of the regular Gros de Tours, inasmuch as the
+rib line, which in the latter runs straight across the cloth, is broken off
+after a given number of warp-threads. These groups, which may comprise 8,
+12 or more threads, will interlace each one pick higher than the preceding
+one.
+
+_Royale of 8 ends_
+
+On 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 55]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Velours Ottoman or Faille francaise._
+
+In order to obtain a broader rib than that of Gros de Tours, and at the
+same time to lend firmness to the fabric, we add to the ground warp, which
+forms the ribs, another or binder warp, which works continually taffeta,
+                                                                  [Page 42]
+while the ground warp changes only every 3 or 4 picks for the rib.
+
+_Faille francaise._
+
+  4 ends of ground on the first section of 8 shafts, skip draw.
+  1   "     binder    "   second    "      2   "
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 56]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Velours Ottoman without a Binder-warp._
+
+In this weave, of which Fig. 57 illustrates a specimen, comprising 8
+warp-threads and 32 picks in a repeat, the rib contains 4 picks. Of the 8
+warp-threads, 3 float over and 3 under the rib, while the 2 others bind
+taffeta, which latter function is executed by 2 other threads in the next
+rib.
+
+                                                                  [Page 43]
+[Illustration: Fig. 57]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+2. From the Twills
+
+One variety is obtained by interlacing the warp-threads alternately one or
+more picks behind, and then a number of picks ahead of their respective
+neighbors; so the complete arrangement of the points of binding in a repeat
+will generally form two parallel diagonal lines. This will cause the twill
+lines to appear less pronounced than is the case in the regular twill, and
+the character of the fabric approaches more that of the satin.
+
+                                                                  [Page 44]
+[Illustration: Fig. 58]
+
+_Satin Serge._
+
+On 8 shafts, straight draw.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 59]
+
+_Cote Satinee._
+
+On 16 harness, skip draw.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Rhadzimir-Surah 2-2._ After a certain number of picks of the regular surah
+all the warp-threads are crossed in two's thereby causing a sort of a rib
+or cut line across the fabric.
+
+                                                                  [Page 45]
+_Rhadzimir of 4 picks._
+
+On 8 shafts, straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 60]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Rhadzimir of 6 picks._
+
+On 8 shafts, straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 61]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 46]
+3. From the Satin Weave
+
+_Satin Soleil_ shows a satin-like surface with a cross line appearance.
+Fig. 62 illustrates it as made on 8 shafts, straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 62]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Satin Grec_ is a 12-harness satin, in which a taffeta point is added to
+each place of interlacing, thus giving the cloth a much firmer hand. Fig.
+63 represents this weave on 12 shafts, skip draw.
+
+                                                                  [Page 47]
+[Illustration: Fig. 63]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Peau de Soie._ An 8-shaft satin with one point added on the right or left
+to the original spots, giving the fabric a somewhat grainy appearence. Fig.
+64 represents a peau de soie on 8 shafts, straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 64]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 48]
+_Fleur de Soie._ The face is a satin de Lyon (2-1 twill), with a backing
+interlaced on the 12-shaft satin principle, Fig. 65, on 12 shafts, skip
+draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 65]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 49]
+CANNELE and REPP WEAVES
+
+are in their construction related to the taffeta, and are used mostly in
+the form of stripes as an additional ornament to a fabric. The threads
+going into the composition of these effects exchange continually from
+taffeta interlacing to floating over a certain number of threads, and must
+be introduced either in warp or filling close enough to make the floats
+cover up the taffeta work entirely, and thus enable the material used to
+show up with the full brilliancy it possesses.
+
+Cannele effects can be produced in two distinct ways. One is to let every
+individual thread work alternately taffeta and float, while in the other
+method one thread weaves always taffeta, and a second thread is used for
+the cannele exclusively. These latter threads must come from a separate
+warp, which is introduced to embellish the ground or taffeta part of the
+fabric.
+
+The floating threads can either stitch all on one pick and so form a
+continuous cut line, or be divided in groups, of which one will bind in the
+middle of the floats of the other group. The following designs show both
+the face and backside of the respective weaves:
+
+                                                                  [Page 50]
+_Alternating Cannele_ of 6 picks.
+
+On 4 shafts, straight through.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 66]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Canelle_ (2 beams). Over 3 picks, interlacing on every fourth pick, drawn
+end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 67]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 51]
+_Cannele_ over 5 picks, binding on the sixth, but every second thread
+advanced 3 picks (to the middle of the float of the first thread), drawn
+end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 68]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 52]
+_Cannele_ arranged in groups of 8 threads, floating over 6 picks and
+binding on the seventh and eighth, drawn on 2 sections, with 4 shafts in
+first and 2 in second section.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 69]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Repp_ on 8 shafts straight through. Rotation of filling. 1 pick taffeta, 1
+pick float (rib).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 70]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 53]
+_Repp_ of 8 threads, on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 ends per section.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 71]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Repp_ of 5 threads, binding on the sixth; every second pick binds on the
+middle of the first pick. On 6 harness straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 72]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 54]
+_Repp_ in groups, floating over 6 ends and binding on the seventh and
+eighth on 8 shafts straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 73]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 55]
+DOUBLE FACED FABRICS
+
+In this class we find either two systems of warp or of filling so combined
+that only one will be visible on either side. The color on one side is
+generally different from the other, and so may the interlacing be of a
+different nature on face and back. In the latter case great care must be
+exercised not to allow the weave on one side to disturb the one on the
+other, and as a rule the points of interlacing of the first warp or filling
+system are placed as much as possible in the middle of the floats of the
+second. This will prevent either color or weave to be seen on the opposite
+side, as the floats of one side will naturally lay themselves over the
+binders of the other. The number of ends in a repeat of the two weaves must
+either be alike or one a multiple of the other.
+
+Warp Effects
+
+_Levantine_ on 8 shafts straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 74]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 56]
+_Serge_ 6-2 on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 75]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+8 _shaft satin_ on 2 sections of 8 harness each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 76]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 57]
+12 _shaft satin_ on 2 sections of 12 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 77]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+_Cannele_ of 8 picks on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 78]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 58]
+FILLING EFFECTS
+
+_Serge_ 5-1 on 6 harness straight draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 79]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+10 _harness satin_ on 10 shafts skip draw.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 80]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 59]
+_Repp_ on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 threads per section.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 81]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 60]
+PEKINS
+
+With this name we designate fabrics in which stripes of a different
+interlacing run in the direction of the warp. In combining these weaves it
+is advantageous to have them contrast distinctly, for instance, a short
+weave such as taffeta or Gros de Tours, with a longer and looser one such
+as satin, serge or cannele, also changes from warp to filling effects. Care
+must be taken to arrange the joining of the two weaves so that the last
+thread of one weave will cross the first thread of the other. This will
+prevent the threads from either stripe to slide over into the other, and so
+make a clean cut line.
+
+#Pekin.# A stripe of
+
+   2 dents of 8 ends each, 8 shaft Satin, on 8 shafts straight draw.
+  12     "    2     "      Taffeta         " 4    "       "      "
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 82]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 61]
+#Pekin#. A stripe of
+
+  12 ends Cannele of 6 picks on 1st section of 4 shafts.
+  12   "   Repp   "  6 threads on 2d and 3d section of 2 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 83]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 62]
+#Pekin.# A stripe of
+
+  10 ends 5 leaf Satin on the 1st section of 5 shafts straight draw.
+   4   "  Taffeta        "    3d    "        2    "      "       "
+  18   "  Serge 3-1, 1-1 "    2d    "        6    "      "       "
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 84]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 63]
+BAYADERES
+
+While pekins are formed by warp stripes, bayadere shows us stripes of
+different weaves running in the direction of the filling. The rules given
+in the previous chapter as to the joining of the weaves will also apply
+here. The warp which was raised on the last pick of the weave must stay
+down wherever possible on the first pick of the following weave. The number
+of shafts employed must go up evenly in the repeat of each one of the
+weaves that go into the make up of the bayadere.
+
+#Bayadere#
+
+  A stripe of 24 picks Gros de Tours  }
+                                      }  on 8 shafts straight through.
+     "         8   "   8-shaft Satin, }
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 85]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 64]
+#Bayadere#
+
+  A stripe of 18 picks 6-shaft Satin  }
+      "        6   "   Serge 5-1,     } on 6 shafts, straight draw.
+      "        4   "   Taffeta,       }
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 86]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 65]
+CHECKS AND PLAIDS
+
+If pekin and bayadere stripes are combined, we obtain checked fabrics, and
+of these an endless variety and pleasing effects can be produced with the
+aid of suitable color combinations.
+
+#Check#
+
+  of 16 threads and 12 picks of the 4 end broken twill,
+  and 16   "     "  12   "   "  Royale of 8 threads,
+          drawn on 4 sections of 4 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 87]
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 66]
+#Check#
+
+  of 20 threads and 16 picks of 8-shaft Satin,
+  "  20    "     "  16   "   "  Taffeta,
+                     4   "   "  Surah 3-1,
+  drawn on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 88]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 67]
+DECOMPOSITION
+
+Under the name of _Disposition_ we comprise all those points and details
+which we must ascertain before we can proceed with the construction of a
+fabric. They are:
+
+  1. #The weave.#
+
+  2. #Length and width of the cloth.#
+
+  3. #The stock and the dyeing thereof.#
+
+  4. #Reed calculation# (number of dents and ends per inch and total number
+      of dents required).
+
+  5. #Drawing-in the warp in harness and reed.#
+
+  6. #Texture and arrangement of warp# (warping ticket)
+
+  7. #Arrangement of harness.#
+
+  8. #Reduction of filling.#
+
+  9. #Calculation of warp and filling.#
+
+  10. #Finishing.#
+
+  11. #Calculation of cost.#
+
+                                                                  [Page 68]
+1. THE WEAVE
+
+If a given sample is to be reproduced or imitated, it must be analyzed, and
+the following hints will greatly facilitate this operation to the beginner.
+
+Cut the sample straight on two sides, and draw out a number of warp and
+filling threads until there is a small fringe of perhaps 1/4 of an inch. This
+will allow a thread to be raised a little for examination, without danger
+of its falling out of the fabric. In most cases it is easier to dissect the
+filling side, that is, the interlacing of each warp-thread in the threads
+of the filling system. With the help of the microscope or counting glass we
+can easily determine over and under how many picks that thread passes and
+the points of interlacing are accordingly marked on designing paper. This
+being done for at least the length of a repeat warpways, we take it out and
+examine the following thread, and so on until the repeat filling-ways is
+complete. It is advisable to ascertain how many picks ahead or back of the
+first examined thread the next following one binds before taking the former
+out.
+
+A knowledge of the construction of weaves as explained in the foregoing
+chapters will enable us to determine the weave of a simple pattern by
+merely raising a warp-thread with a needle on any point of interlacing and
+counting off how many picks apart from this place it makes an impression.
+
+2. LENGTH AND WIDTH OF THE FABRIC
+
+To the length and width which the finished product is to have, we must add
+a certain allowance for shrinkage and _taking up_ of warp during weaving.
+It may differ from one to ten per cent., according to the texture and weave
+of the fabric, and can be ascertained with sufficient accuracy by
+stretching out and measuring a thread of warp and filling and comparing
+their length with the respective measurements of the sample to be
+reproduced.
+
+                                                                  [Page 69]
+3. THE STOCK AND ITS DYE
+
+Under this heading we must give the particulars as to nature, _twist_,
+_quality_ and _size_ of the silk, and the directions for the dyeing,
+whether _bright_ or _souple_, and in what colors, also whether to be
+weighted or not.
+
+The size is generally ascertained (in practical work) by comparing it with
+other silk of which the exact count is known. Another method is to count
+the number of cocoon threads which a thread of the sample contains, adding
+to that 1/3 or 1/4, according to the quality of the silk; the result will be
+the count in deniers. To obtain it in drams, divide the latter number by
+17,3 as 1 dram is equal to 17,3 deniers.
+
+Suppose we find 20 cocoon ends in a thread of silk: add 1/3, and we have
+26-2/3 deniers, which, divided by 17,3 make 1,54 drams.
+
+As silk is always more or less uneven, it is safer to count the cocoon
+fibers of several threads and to take average thereof.
+
+It requires the experience of years to judge with any degree of certainty
+as to the origin and quality of silk, whether it be "classical," "extra,"
+"sublime," etc.
+
+There are machines wherewith to ascertain exactly the twist, that is, the
+number of turns the silk has received in the throwing process.
+
+In the dyeing we distinguish two great classes, of which the names
+themselves give a good definition. "Bright" has a brilliant luster, while
+"souple" has more of a dull, subdued appearance. To find out whether the
+silk has been weighted in the dyeing process, we may compare it with other
+silk of which the exact conditions are known, or we may burn a small
+quantity of it. Unweighted silk does not burn readily and leaves a residue
+of white ashes, while heavy weighted silk burns lively, leaving black,
+charry ashes.
+
+                                                                  [Page 70]
+4. REED CALCULATION
+
+We count the number of repeats of the weave in a given space, generally 1/4
+or 1/2 inch, and multiply this with the number of threads one repeat
+contains, which gives us the reduction of the warp.
+
+Suppose we had a taffeta, which, as we know, has only 2 ends to a repeat,
+and counted 30 interlacings per 1/4 inch on one pick; we would have 60
+threads per 1/4 inch or 240 per one inch. In this case the reed may be 80 by
+3 or 60 by 4.
+
+Another instance: In an 8-shaft satin we count 10 warp-threads, which bind
+on the same pick in 1/4 inch; this, multiplied by 8, equals 80 ends per 1/4, or
+320 per one inch; the reed will be an 80 with 4 in a dent or a 64 by 5.
+
+In short, the number of the reed is found by dividing the number of
+warp-threads that are to go in one dent, in the number of ends per inch.
+Sometimes, the reed marks are clearly visible in a sample by holding the
+latter against the light. Silk fabrics move with very few exceptions within
+the limits of 50 and 90 dents per inch.
+
+To learn the full number of dents required for the width of the cloth,
+simply multiply the dents per one inch with the width, adding a certain
+allowance for shrinkage. The edges, of course, must also be taken in
+consideration, and very often the dents that are taken up by the latter are
+used to counter-balance that shrinkage.
+
+5. DRAWING-IN THE WARP IN HARNESS AND REED
+
+Here we must specify the number of dents that contain the same number of
+ends, and whether the latter are single or double, also the number of
+shafts and the method of drawing-in.
+
+                                                                  [Page 71]
+6. WARPING TICKET
+
+To make out the warping ticket, we need to ascertain the total number of
+ends, whether leased single or double, and the arrangement of the colors.
+
+7. HARNESS ARRANGEMENT
+
+This is governed by the number of ends to be drawn in and the necessary
+shafts. If we have, for instance, 100 threads per inch to be drawn on 4
+shafts, we must give each shaft 25 heddles per inch. There are generally
+between 25 and 45 heddles per inch on one shaft.
+
+8. REDUCTION OF THE FILLING
+
+Here we state the number of picks per inch, give directions as to doubling,
+if such is necessary, and if more than one color or shuttle is used, the
+rotation thereof.
+
+9. CALCULATION OF WARP AND FILLING
+
+The system adopted in this country for specifying the size of silk is based
+on the weight in drams (avoirdupois) of a skein containing 1000 yards. A
+skein, thus weighing 5 drams, is technically called 5-dram silk. The number
+of yards of 1-dram silk to a pound must accordingly be 256000. The formulas
+for figuring the amount of silk required for a piece of cloth are as
+follows:
+
+Warp Calculation
+
+  _Multiply_:    Number of endsxlengthxcount
+              -----------------------------
+  _Divide by_:       1000 yardsx256 drams
+
+                                                                  [Page 72]
+Filling Calculation
+
+  _Multiply:_     Picksxxplyxwidthxlength of piecexcount
+                 --------------------------------------  =  lbs.
+  _Divide by:_                1000 yardsx256 drams
+
+  The result in both cases will be in pounds.
+
+The system of grading the silk which is in vogue in Europe, and which is
+employed by a number of mills on this side, is as follows:
+
+     1 skein of 500 meters, weighing 0,05  grams = 1 denier international
+  or 1    "     476   "        "     0,053   "   = 1    "   Turin system
+  or 1    "     476   "        "     0,051   "   = 1    "   Milan    "
+
+The warp calculation, taking the international denier, would run:
+
+                      ends in warpxlengthxdenierx0,05 gram
+                     --------------------------------------
+    _divided by:_          500 meters
+
+  for the filling:    Picks per meterxxplyxwidthxdenierx0,05 gram
+                     ---------------------------------------------
+    _divided by:_             500 meters
+
+  Result in metric weight, kilograms and grams.
+
+10. FINISHING
+
+Give directions as to the process of finishing to which the goods are to be
+subjected, whether to be pressed, calendered, sized, moired, etc.
+
+11. CALCULATION OF COST
+
+If all the foregoing conditions are ascertained, and a sample or a piece of
+the fabric executed, it remains to the manufacturer to determine the exact
+figure at which he can produce the article. That this must be done with
+great accuracy is naturally of the utmost importance, and the calculator
+                                                                  [Page 73]
+must know in the first place the raw stock prices, and also be acquainted
+with the details of the manufacturing process and the rates of wages paid
+therein. As a rule, the manufacturer establishes a scale of prices covering
+all the items of labor cost, mill expenses, etc., and uses this as a basis
+for his calculations.
+
+A rule or formula for this operation cannot very well be given, as the
+methods vary in almost every establishment, each choosing the one best
+adapted to its ideas or dictates of circumstances and conditions.
+
+                                                                  [Page 75]
+DISPOSITION 1
+
+_Taffeta glace_
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 89]
+
+                                                                  [Page 76]
+  #Length and Width#--One piece 100 yards long, 183/4 inches wide.
+
+  #Stock and Dye#--_Warp._--Ital. Organ., 24/26 deniers = 1,47 drams,
+                            brown, bright, 14/16 oz.
+                _Filling._--Japan Tram, 28/30 deniers = 1,65 drams,
+                            gold, bright 14/16 oz.
+
+  #Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch,   70 dents at 3 single ends.
+                       " 183/4 "    1313   "
+                                add 13   "   = 1% for shrinkage
+                                  ----
+                        Total     1326 dents.
+
+  #Drawing in#--1st edge,    9 dents at 3 double ends.
+                Ground,   1308   "   at 3 single   "
+                2d edge,     9   "   at 3 double   "
+           on 6 shafts, straight through.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--1st edge,   27 double ends, brown.
+                    Ground,   3924 single   "     "
+                    2d edge,    27 double   "     "
+                              ----
+                 Total        4032 single ends.
+              Length of warp 110 yards, including 10% for take up.
+
+  #Harness#--6 shafts, 3978 heddles per 19 inches.
+             1    "      35    "     "   1    "
+
+  #Reduction of Filling#--Per inch, 100/102 picks, 2 ends.
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs  =  4032 ends.
+                      1 end  =  110 yards.
+                 1000 yards  =  1,47 drams.
+                  256 drams  =  1 lb.
+                        100  =  104 (4% waste).
+
+         4032x110x1,47x104
+        -------------------  =  2,65 lbs., or 2 lbs. 10,4 oz.
+            1000x256x100
+
+                                                                  [Page 77]
+  #Filling Calculation#--? lbs.   = 100 yards
+                         1 yard   = 36 inches.
+                         1 inch   = 102 \ picks.
+                                      2 / ends.
+                         1 pick   = 19 inches.
+                        36 inches = 1 yard
+                      1000 yards  = 1,65 drams.
+                       256 drams  = 1 lb.
+                             100  = 108 (8% waste).
+
+               100x36x102x2x19x165x108
+              ------------------------- = 2,73 lbs., or 2 lbs. 11,7 ozs.
+                    36x1000x256x100
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 79]
+DISPOSITION 2
+
+_Surah 3-1_
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 90]
+
+                                                                  [Page 80]
+  #Length and Width#--1 piece 50 yards long, 231/2 in. wide.
+
+  #Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._--Ital. Organ., 1,30 drams = 20/24 deniers,
+                               black, bright, 40/50% = 22/24 ozs.
+                   _Filling._--Cotton No. 120/2 black.
+
+  #Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch,     80 dents at 2 single ends.
+                       "  231/2 inch, 1880   "
+                                  add 36   "   = 2% for shrinkage.
+                                        ----
+                       Total            1916 dents.
+
+  #Drawing-in#--1st edge,  8 dents, 2 double ends.
+                Ground, 1900   "    2 single  "
+                2d edge,   8   "    2 double  "
+                on 4 shafts, straight draw.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--1st edge,  16 double ends, black.
+                    Ground,  3800 single  "      "
+                    2d edge,   16 double  "      "
+                             ----
+            Total            3864 single ends.
+               Warp 54 yards long = 8% for take up.
+
+  #Harness#--4 shafts, 3832 heddles per 24 inches.
+             1   "       40    "     "   1   "
+
+  #Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 120 picks, 1 end.
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 4264 ends.
+                       1 end = 54 yards.
+                  1000 yards = 1,30 drams.
+                   256 drams = 1 lb.
+                         100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+		 3864x54x1,30x104
+                ------------------ = 1,10 lbs., or 1 lb. 1,06 oz.
+                    1000x256x100
+
+                                                                  [Page 81]
+  #Filling Calculation#-?lbs. = 50 yards.
+                       1 yard = 36 inches.
+                       1 inch = 120 picks.
+                       1 pick = 24 inches.
+                    36 inches = 1 yard
+                    840 yards = 1 skein.
+        (No. 120/2) 60 skeins = 1 lb.
+                          100 = 110 (10% waste).
+
+                  50x36x120x24x110
+                 ------------------ = 3.14 lbs., or 3 lbs. 2.24 ozs.
+                    36x840x60x100
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 83]
+#DISPOSITION 3#
+
+_Satin Duchesse._
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 91]
+
+                                                                  [Page 84]
+  #Length and Width#--One warp 300 yards long, 10 pieces of 60 yards
+      23 inches wide, 2 pieces in width, with one cut edge.
+
+  #Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._-- Ital. Organ., 1-55/100 drams, black,
+                                bright, 20/22 oz.
+                   _Filling._-- Jap. Tram., 1-8/10 and 2-7/10
+                                drams, black, souple, 40/44 oz.
+
+    We should use for this fabric 1 end filling, 5-thread, 4-5/10 drams,
+    but as we have none of this size on hand, we take: 1 end, 2 thread,
+    1-8/10 drams, and 1 end, 3 thread, 2-7/10 drams.
+
+  #Reed Calculation#--1 inch, 66 dents, 4 single ends.
+                     46 "   3036  "
+                              54  " (13/4% shrinkage).
+                            ----
+                 Total ...  3090 dents.
+
+  #Drawing-in#--       {
+             1st edge, {   2 dents, 6x2, black.
+                       {  13   "    4x2, white.
+                Ground, 1514   "    4x1, black.
+
+		       {   2   "    6x2    "
+             Cut Edge  {   1   "    2x4,   "
+                       {   3   "    empty.
+                       {   1   "    2x4,   "
+
+                Ground, 1514   "    4x1, black.
+
+	     2d edge, {    2   "    6x2, black.
+                      {   13   "    4x2, white.
+
+      Satin on 8 shafts, straight draw.
+      Cross-thread for split edge on 3 shafts, see design.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--       Edge, {     12/2 black. }
+                                 {     52/2 white. }
+                           Ground,   6056/1 black. } twice over.
+                           Edge, {     52/2 white. }
+                                 {     12/2 black. }
+
+                           12208 ends black, { 318 yards long.
+                             416  "   white, { = 6% shrinkage.
+
+                   2/4 black for ground thread, 300 yards long.
+                   2/4   "    " whip       "    360   "     "
+                 each one on a separate little roll.
+
+                                                                  [Page 85]
+  #Harness#--8 shafts, 12368 heddles, 47 in
+             1    "       33    "      1  "
+     for the split edge 3 shafts, of which one has only half a heddle.
+
+  #Filling#--Per 1 in., 80 picks, 2 ends (as described before).
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 12224 ends, black (416 white).
+                       1 end = 318 yards.
+                 1,000 yards = 1,55 drams.
+                   256 drams = 1 lb.
+                         100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+       (416)  12224x318x1.55x104
+             -------------------- = 24,477 lbs. org. black.
+                 1000x256x100     =  0,833  "    "   white.
+
+  #Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 300 yards.
+                         1 yard = 36 inches.
+                         1 inch = 80 picks.
+                         1 pick = 47 inches.
+                      36 inches = 1 yard.
+                     1000 yards = 4,5 drams.
+                      256 drams = 1 lb.
+                            100 = 108 (8% waste).
+
+               300x36x80x47x4,5x108
+              ---------------------- = 21,414 lbs.
+                  36x1000x256x100
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 87]
+DISPOSITION 4
+
+_Armure Satinee_
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 92]
+
+                                                                  [Page 88]
+
+  #Length and Width#--One piece 60 yards long, 19 in. wide.
+
+  #Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._--Jap. Organ., 1,48 drams, black, bright,
+                               18/20 oz.
+                   _Filling._--3 threads Jap. Tram., 2,95 drams,
+                               black, bright, 24/26 oz.
+
+  #Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch,  60 dentsx4 single ends.
+                       " 19   "  1140   "
+                                   32   " (3% for shrinkage).
+                                 ----
+                    Total . . .  1172 dents.
+
+  #Drawing-in#--1st edge, 12 dents x 4 double.
+                Ground, 1148   "   x 4 single.
+                2d edge,  12   "   x 4 double.
+                     on 12 shafts, straight through,
+                   or on 6 shafts, as design indicates.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--1st edge, 48/2 black.
+                    Ground, 4592/1   "
+                    2d edge,  48/2   "
+                              ------
+                 Total . . . 4784 single ends 64 yards long.
+                                        =61/2% for take up.
+
+  #Harness#--6 shafts, 4688 heddles per 191/2 inches.
+             1   "       40   "      "   1       "
+
+  #Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 104 picks, 2 ends.
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 4784 ends.
+                       1 end = 64 yards.
+                  1000 yards = 1,48 drams.
+                   256 drams = 1 lb.
+                         100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+           4784x64x1,48x104
+          ------------------ = 1,84 lbs., or 1 lb. 13,44 ozs.
+             1000x256x100
+
+                                                                  [Page 89]
+  #Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 60 yards.
+                         1 yard = 36 inches.
+                         1 inch = 104 } picks.
+                                    2 } ends.
+                         1 pick = 191/2 inches.
+                      36 inches = 1 yard.
+                     1000 yards = 2,95 drams.
+                      256 drams = 1 lb.
+                            100 = 108 (8% waste).
+
+     60x36x104x2x19,5x2,95x108
+    --------------------------- = 3,03 lbs., or 3 lbs. 0,48 ozs.
+          36x1000x256x100
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 91]
+DISPOSITION 5
+
+_Surface Printed Armure._
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 93]
+
+                                                                  [Page 92]
+  #Length and Width#--One piece 50 yards long, 181/2 in. wide.
+
+  #Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._--Ital. Organ., 1,50 drams, 24/28 deniers,
+                               white bright, pure dye.
+
+                   _Filling._--5 thread Ital. Tram., 4 drams, 13/14
+                               deniers, white, bright, pure dye.
+
+  #Reed Calculation#--Per 1    inch,  52 dents, 2x2.
+                       " 181/2 "    962  "
+                                   20  "  (2% shrinkage).
+                                 ----
+                      Total . . . 982 dents.
+
+  #Drawing-in#--1st edge,   7 dents, 4x2 gros de Tours.
+                  Ground, 968   "    2x2 armure
+                 2d edge,   7   "    4x2 gros de Tours.
+        Armure ground on 12 shafts, straight draw.
+        Gros de Tours, edges on 4 shafts.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--Ground warp, 54 yards.
+                   1936/2 white.
+                    Gros de Tours edges, 55 yards.
+                   2x28/2 white, on separate rolls.
+              Total . . . 3984 single ends.
+
+  #Harness#--12 shafts, 1936 heddles, per 181/2 inches.
+              1   "      8-2/3  "      "   1    "
+4 Shafts gros de Tours edges, with 28 heddles on each side.
+
+  #Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 96 picks, 1 end.
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 3984 ends.
+                      1 end  = 54  yards.
+                  1000 yards = 1,50 drams.
+                   256 drams = 1 lb.
+                         100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+           3984x54x1,50x104
+          ------------------ = 1,31 lbs., or 1 lb. 4,96 ozs.
+             1000x256x100
+
+                                                                  [Page 93]
+  #Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 50 yards.
+                         1 yard = 36 inches.
+                         1 inch = 96 picks.
+                         1 pick = 19 inches.
+                      36 inches = 1 yard.
+                     1000 yards = 4 drams.
+                      256 drams = 1 lb.
+                            100 = 108 (8% waste).
+
+             50x36x96x19x4x108
+            ------------------- = 1,54 lbs., or 1 lb. 8,64 ozs.
+              36x1000x256x100
+
+After weaving, the small flower effects have to be printed on the cloth.
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                  [Page 95]
+DISPOSITION 6
+
+_Pekin_: 8 shaft satin and repp.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 34]
+
+                                                                  [Page 96]
+  #Length and Width#--1 piece 100 yards long, 201/4 in. wide.
+
+                              { Ital. Organ., 1-35/100 drams, black,
+                              {   bright, 20/22 oz.
+  #Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._ { Ital. Organ., 1-15/100 drams, sky,
+                              {   bright, pure dye
+                              { Cotton No. 100/2, scarlet.
+
+                   _Filling._--3 threads, Jap. Tram., 2-8/10 drams,
+                               scarlet, bright, 14/16 oz.
+
+                                            {6x1, black satin
+  #Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch, 68 dents, {6x2, colored "
+                                            {2x1,    "    repp.
+                       " 201/4  " 1377  "
+                                  23  " (11/2% for shrinkage).
+                                ----
+                       Total    1400 dents.
+
+  #Drawing-in#--1st edge,  7 dents, 6x2 satin.         }
+                  Ground, 34   "    6x1   "            }
+                           2   "    6x2   "            }
+                          10   "    6x1   "    } twice }
+                           2   "    2x1 repp.  } over. }
+                          10   "    6x1 satin.         }
+                           2   "    6x2   "            }
+                          39   "    6x1   "            }
+                           5   "    2x1 repp.  } twice }
+                           4   "    6x1 satin. } over. } 7 times
+                           5   "    2x1 repp.          } over.
+                          15   "    6x1 satin.         }
+                           2   "    2x1 repp.          }
+                          15   "    6x1 satin.         }
+                           5   "    2x1 repp.  } twice }
+                           4   "    6x1 satin. } over. }
+                           5   "    2x1 repp.          }
+                           5   "    6x1 satin.         }
+                          28   "    6x1   "            }
+                 2d edge,  7   "    6x2   "            }
+                 Satin on 1st section of 8 shaft skip draw.
+                 Binder " 2nd    "     " 2   "
+                 Repp   " 3d     "     " 2   "
+
+                                                                  [Page 97]
+On each side of every repp stripe two ends of the satin warp must be
+entered on the 2 binder shafts (2d section), to prevent the ends of the
+satin to slide over into the repp stripes.
+
+  #Warping Ticket#--I. _Beam satin_, 106 yards.
+    1st edge, 42/2 black.
+         Ground, 204/1  "     }
+                  12/2 sky.   }
+                 180/1 black. }
+                  12/2 sky.   }
+                 234/1 black. }
+                  48/2 sky.   } 7 times over.
+                 180/1 black. }
+                  48/2 sky.   }
+                  30/1 black. }
+                 168/1  "     }
+         2d edge, 42/2  "     }
+
+        6132 single ends black.
+        1680   "     "   sky.
+
+         II. _Beam repp_, 110 yards.
+                   4/1 scarlet. }
+                   4/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     } 7 times over.
+                   4/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     }
+                  10/1    "     }
+
+            504 single ends scarlet cotton
+
+This warp has to be beamed in stripes. Make out a diagram for the warper
+the same as shown in Fig. 95.
+
+                                                                  [Page 98]
+[Illustration: Fig. 95]
+
+#Harness#--Fig. 95 shows how to make a diagram of a harness for a Pekin.
+The heddles are marked per one shaft. As the repp stripes are only small
+ones, we use for the satin a full harness, that is, one without open spaces
+for the repp stripe. All together we have in the satin warp 6888 single and
+double ends to draw in; of these 252 ends are used for binders, on both
+sides of the repp stripes. Thus remain for
+
+    8 shafts, 6636 heddles per 201/2 inches
+    1   "       40    "     "   1    "
+
+  #Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 144 picks, 1 end.
+
+  #Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 6132 ends (1680 ends sky).
+                       1 end = 106 yards.
+                  1000 yards = 1,35 drams (sky 1,15 drams).
+                   256 drams = 1 lb.
+                         100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+  6132x106x1,35x104
+ ------------------- = 3,56 lbs. for black, or 3 lbs. 8,96 ozs.
+     1000x256x100
+
+  1680x106x1,15x104
+ ------------------- = 0,83 lbs. for sky, or 0 lbs. 13,28 ozs.
+      1000x256x100
+
+                                                                  [Page 99]
+
+                         ? lbs. = 504 ends.
+                          1 end = 110 yards.
+                      840 yards = 1 skein.
+          (No. 100/2) 50 skeins = 1 lb.
+                            100 = 104 (4% waste).
+
+    504x110x104
+   ------------- = 1,37 lbs. scarlet cotton, or 1 lb. 5,92 ozs.
+    840x50x100
+
+  #Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 100 yards.
+                         1 yard = 36 inches.
+                         1 inch = 144 picks.
+                         1 pick = 21 inches.
+                      36 inches = 1 yard.
+                     1000 yards = 2,8 drams.
+                      256 drams = 1 lb.
+                            100 = 108 (8% waste).
+
+   100x36x144x21x2,8x108
+  ----------------------- = 3,57 lbs., or 3 lbs. 9,12 ozs.
+     36x1000x256x100
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                 [Page 100]
+JACQUARD WEAVES
+
+Jacquard weaves usually show on a plain ground figure or flower effects. To
+obtain these effects the ground is made of one weave, say taffeta, while
+the figures or flowers are produced in another weave, say satin.
+
+We enter the warp through a jacquard harness, and according to the repeat
+use a 200, 400, 600, 900, 1200, etc., hook jacquard machine, which means
+200, 400, 600, 900 and 1200 ends per repeat.
+
+With a 600-hook machine a larger repeat can be produced than with a
+499-hook machine. For instance, if we want to make a cloth the figures of
+which are to be two inches apart, it is a two-inch repeat, and use the
+count of 50/4 or 200 ends per inch, we can use a 400-hook machine, 2 in. x
+200 ends. But we can make this cloth also on a 1200-hook machine, only the
+repeat must be designed three times. The advantage of using a 1200-hook
+machine with the count 50/4 is that 2, 3, 4, 6-inch repeats can be
+produced, while with a 400-hook machine, only a 2-inch repeat can be made.
+
+There is no end to all the different weaves and the possible flower and
+other pattern effects that can be made with the jacquard machine. For a
+jacquard weaving plant the designing is the most important factor.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BOX LOOM WEAVES INCLUDING CREPES
+
+Box looms are required for weaves such as bayaderes, checks, plaids (see
+pages 63-65), bengalines, crepes, etc., where two or more shuttles are
+needed to bring out the effect.
+
+For the crepes (crepe de chine, crepe georgette) only two shuttles are
+needed, while plaids and other articles are made with more shuttles.
+
+To weave such articles the loom or the lay must be fitted with two or more
+shuttle boxes on one or both sides of the loom.
+
+                                                                 [Page 101]
+If a manufacturer decides to change plain looms to box looms or buy new box
+looms, it is wise to get 4 x 4 boxes, or four shuttle boxes on each side.
+
+With these looms about everything can be made that is called for in
+box-loom effects, and as styles change, it is wise to be prepared.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MANUFACTURING COSTS
+
+The calculator first ascertains for the warp: What silk will be used, the
+cost of the same, total number of ends in the warps for the amount of silk,
+cost of throwing, dyeing, winding, warping, twisting, entering, and
+weaving.
+
+Then the filling: Silk to be used, how much, cost of silk, cost of
+throwing, dyeing, winding, doubling, quilling.
+
+After this determine the cost of weaving, cloth picking, finishing, factory
+costs, and selling expenses.
+
+To-day most of the operations are paid by "piece work."
+
+The calculator must always take into consideration that poor raw silk or
+poor dyeing make production slow, increase the cost of labor, and also that
+more waste will be made.
+
+THROWING: Regular organ usually has 16 turns per inch in the first twist
+and 14 turns to the inch in the second or reverse twist. Tram receives only
+one twisting, about three turns to the inch.
+
+As the warp twisting-in is paid for at so much per hundred or thousand
+ends, no matter how short or long the warp is, it is a saving to make the
+warps as long as possible, especially in raw, black and staple colors.
+
+The calculator must not forget the cost of entering the first warp in a
+harness, also the reeding.
+
+Most mills figure the cost of harness and reed in the expense accounts. If
+plain and fancy goods are made an extra percentage should be figured for
+the latter.
+
+                                                                 [Page 102]
+EXPENSES are figured differently, as almost every manufacturer has his own
+system. If a mill makes only a few staple articles it is easy to put down
+the cost of expenses. Say the mill has a production of 500,000 yards per
+year, that the expense amounts to $35,000, the cost then is 7 cents per
+yard.
+
+Manufacturers making all kinds of goods sometimes figure the expenses in
+percentage, say, for plain goods, with a few picks, like gros-grain, peau
+de soie, etc., 10 per cent. per yard. Taffeta, satin, etc., having more
+picks, 121/2 per cent. per yard, and fancy and jacquard goods, 15 per cent.
+per yard. In the expense account we include all charges except raw silk,
+throwing, dyeing and piece work.
+
+SELLING EXPENSES. Before a calculation is finished we must add the selling
+expenses to the cost, also take account of the trade discount. Small mills
+usually sell through a commission house, which pays all expenses and
+charges a certain commission. Many large firms have their own selling end,
+and some have their sales guaranteed by a commission house or a bank.
+
+                                                                 [Page 103]
+CALCULATIONS
+
+The prices marked in the following calculations are about as in "normal
+times." Absolutely correct piece work prices cannot be given as different
+localities have different prices.
+
+Calculations are usually made per 100 yards, 100-meter warps.
+
+Most goods gain from 3 to 7 per cent. in weaving. That is, if we make a
+warp of 300 meters for a satin and we obtain 315 yards of cloth, this gain
+should not be calculated, as usually there is no account taken of samples
+used in the selling department. But the loss in length should be figured
+and taken account of on goods with a heavy rib, such as moire, faille, etc.
+
+DISP. 7--A 3 1/3-inch repeat can be obtained with a 600-hook jacquard
+machine, seven repeats in a width of 23 inches.
+
+DISP. 8--Taffeta weave, but the two cotton picks must go in one hole. This
+article can only be made with at least two shuttle boxes on each side. For
+warping use a single and double cross reed, heavy cotton, no knots must be
+tied.
+
+DISP. 10--This article must be warped with as much tension as possible and
+no knots should be tied in. Silk is to be delivered on bobbins from
+throwster.
+
+CANTON CREPE
+
+DISP. 9--Can also be made with Canton silk for filling and may be called
+Canton crepe. As Canton silk is much cheaper than Japan, the manufacturer
+can use 4-thread Canton instead of 3-thread Japan for filling at a little
+difference in cost, thus the cloth will be heavier, but Canton silk is not
+as even and clean as Japan.
+
+                                                                 [Page 104]
+  Article--TAFFETA GLACE Reed 70/3
+  Disp. 1    Width 183/4 in.
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Class 12/14               $5.00 raw silk
+                                                .60 throwing
+          2-Thread Organ. brown bright          .45 dyeing
+          16-oz.                                .15 winding
+                                               -----
+          raw lbs. 2.60                       $6.20               $16.23
+    Warping--4032 at 3c.                                            1.21
+    Twisting--3978 at 25c. per 300 meters                            .33
+    Filling--Jap. Tram. Best No. 1 13/15      $4.25 raw silk
+                                                .45 throwing
+             2/2 ends 104 picks                 .45 dyeing
+                                                .15 winding
+             gold bright 16 oz.                 .15 doubling
+                                                .10 quilling
+                                              -----
+             raw lbs. 2.73                    $5.55                15.02
+    Weaving                                                         7.00
+    Picking                                                         1.00
+    Finishing                                                       1.00
+    Expenses                                                        7.00
+                                                                  ------
+                                                                  $48.79
+                                              5% trade discount
+                                              71/2% selling commission
+                                              Divide by 871/2
+                                              Cost per yard = $0.5576
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+   Article--SURAH 3-1  Reed 80/2
+   Disp. 2       Width 36 in.
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Class. 10/12              $5.20
+                                                .65
+          2-Thread Organ. bright black          .81 discount 15%
+          24 oz.                                .30 dyed 20%
+                                              -----
+          lbs. 3.36                           $6.96               $23.39
+    Warping--5904 at 23/4c.                                        1.62
+    Twisting--5872 at 35c.--600 lb. warp                             .25
+    Filling--cotton 120/1                     $1.25
+                                                .10 dye
+         black 1 end 120 picks                  .08 winding
+                                                .07 quilling
+                                              -----
+                lbs. 9.50                     $1.50                14.25
+    Weaving                                                        12.00
+    Picking                                                         1.50
+    Finishing                                                       2.00
+    Expenses                                                        7.00
+                                                                   -----
+                                                                  $62.01
+                                             5% discount
+                                             6% commission
+                                             Divide by 89
+                                             Cost per yard = $0.6967
+
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+								 [Page 105]
+  Article--SATIN DUCHESSE Reed 66/4
+  Disp. 3        Width 2 x 23 in.
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14          $5.00
+                                            .60
+          2-Thread Organ. black bright      .73
+          22 oz.                            .21
+                                          -----
+          lbs. 8.50                       $6.54            $55.59
+    Warping--12624 at 23/4c.                                   3.47
+    Twisting--12256 at 25c.  600 meters                       .51
+    Filling--Jap. Tram No. 1--14/16       $4.00
+                                            .40
+      black souple 44 oz.                  1.60 net
+                                            .40
+    1/2 and 1/3 = 1/5  80 picks             .40 doubling
+                                            .30
+                                          -----
+      lbs. 7.14                           $7.10             50.69
+    Weaving                                                 13.00
+    Picking                                                  2.00
+    Finishing                                                2.50
+    Expenses                                                 8.00
+                                                          -------
+                                                          $135.76
+                                          Divide by 89
+                                          Cost per yard = $0.7627
+
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+  Article--ARMURE SATIN  Reed 60/4
+  Disp. 4      Width 26 in.
+  STOCK AND DYE
+    Warp--Jap. Ex. 12/14                  $4.75
+                                            .60
+      2-Thread Organ. black bright          .64
+      20 oz.                                .19
+                                          -----
+      lbs. 4.30                           $6.18            $26.57
+  Warping--6520 at 23/4c.                                      1.79
+    Twisting--6424 at 25c.  600 meters                        .27
+    Filling--Jap. Tram No. 1  16/18       $4.00
+                                            .30
+      black bright 26 oz.                   .94
+                                            .25
+      2/3 ends 104 picks                    .25
+                                            .17
+                                          -----
+      lbs. 6.80                           $5.91             40.19
+    Weaving                                                 10.00
+    Picking                                                  1.00
+    Finishing                                                1.00
+    Expenses                                                 7.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $87.82
+                                          Divide by 89
+                                          Cost per yard = $0.9867
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                 [Page 106]
+  Article--PRINTED ARMURE  Reed 52/2/2
+  Disp. 5      Width 181/2 in.
+  STOCK AND DYE
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14          $5.00
+          2-Thread Organ. white bright      .60
+          P.D.                              .23
+                                            .12
+                                          -----
+          lbs. 2.62                       $5.95       $15.59
+    Warping--3984/1 at 3c.                              1.20
+    Twisting--1992/2 at 30c.  300 meters                 .20
+    Filling--Ital. Tram. souple 13/14     $4.50
+                                            .30
+      white bright P.D.                     .23
+                                            .10
+      1/5 end 96 picks                      .07
+                                          -----
+      lbs. 3.08                           $5.20        16.02
+    Weaving                                             8.00
+    Picking                                             1.00
+    Finishing and Printing                              5.00
+    Expenses                                            8.00
+                                                      ------
+                                                      $55.01
+                                Divide by 871/2
+                                Cost per yard = $0.6287
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                 [Page 107]
+  Article--SATIN STRIPED REPS  Reed 60/62
+  Disp. 6     Width 201/4 in.
+  STOCK AND DYE
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Organ. 24/26           $5.00
+          black bright 22 oz.                .60
+                                             .73
+                                             .21
+                                           -----
+          lbs. 3.56                        $6.54           $23.28
+          Ital. Ex. Organ. 18/20           $5.20
+                                             .65
+          sky bright P.D.                    .23
+                                             .12
+                                           -----
+          lbs. .83                         $6.20             5.15
+          Cotton 100/2                     $1.00
+                                             .12
+                                             .08
+                                           -----
+          scarlet lbs. 1.37                $1.20             1.64
+    Warping--8316 at 4c.                                     3.32
+    Twisting--7434 at 50c.  300 meters                       1.24
+    Filling--Jap. tram. No. 1 14/16        $4.00
+                                             .35
+       scarlet bright 16 oz. 1/3 ends        .45
+                                             .15
+       144 picks.   lbs. 3.57                .10
+                                           -----
+                                           $5.05            18.04
+    Weaving                                                 12.00
+    Picking                                                  1.00
+    Finishing                                                1.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $66.67
+    Expenses 15%                                            10.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $76.67
+                                           Divide by 871/2
+                                           Cost per yard = $0.8763
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                 [Page 108]
+  Article--MESSALINE BROCADE Reed 60/3
+  Disp. 7       Width 23 in.
+    Warp--Jap. Ex. 13/15                $4.50
+                                          .60
+          2-Thread navy bright 16 oz.     .45
+                                          .15
+                                         ----
+          lbs. 3.20                     $5.70              $18.24
+    Warping--4320 at 3c.                                     1.30
+    Twisting--4260 at 30c.  300 meters                        .41
+    Filling--Jap. Tram No. 1 13/15      $4.00
+                                          .35
+     emerald ex. bright dye 24 oz.        .95
+                                          .25
+     1/3 ends  100 picks                  .15
+                                        -----
+     lbs. 2.50                          $5.70               14.25
+    Weaving                                                  9.00
+    Picking                                                  1.00
+    Finishing                                                1.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $45.20
+    Expenses 15%                                             6.78
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $51.98
+                                        Divide by 871/2
+                                        Cost per yard = $0.5941
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+  Article--BENGALINE Reed 72/2 by 1 single; 1 double
+  Disp. 8       Width 36 in.
+    Warp--Jap. ex. 13/15                $4.50
+                                          .60
+          2-Thread Organ. black bright    .64
+          20 oz.                          .19
+                                        -----
+          lbs. 5.77                     $5.93              $34.22
+    Warping--7964 at 23/4c.                                    2.19
+    Twisting--5296 at 30c.  600 meters                        .27
+    Filling--56 picks by                $4.50
+             5 organ. 2 Cotton            .60
+                                          .64
+                                          .19     .45
+                                          .12     .10
+                                        -----
+             40 picks Organ. as warp    $6.05     .08        6.05
+             lbs. 1                               .07
+             16 picks black cotton 15/4         -----
+             lbs. 22.50                         $ .70       15.75
+
+    Weaving                                                 12.00
+    Picking                                                  1.50
+    Finishing                                                3.00
+    Expenses                                                 8.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $82.98
+                                        Divide by 91
+                                        Cost per yard = $0.9119
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+                                                                 [Page 109]
+  Article--CREPE DE CHINE (Taffeta weave)  Reed 60/2/2
+  Disp. 9        Width 40 in.
+                 441/2 in. in reed
+    Warp--Jap. Ex. Grege 20/22            $4.50
+                                            .05 winding
+                                          -----
+          2% waste lbs. 5.60              $4.55            $25.48
+    Warping--5340/2 at 21/2c.                                  2.67
+    Twisting--5340/2 at 25c.  600 meters                      .23
+    Filling--Jap. No. 1 13/15
+          4 ends hard twist 60 turns      $4.00
+                                           1.25 throwing
+          84 picks by 2 right, 2 left      0.05 quilling
+            twist                         -----
+          25% waste and shrinkage         $5.30
+            lbs. 6.00                                       31.80
+    Weaving                                                  9.00
+    Finishing and dyeing                                     5.00
+    Picking                                                  1.00
+    Expenses                                                 7.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $82.18
+                                          5% discount
+                                          5% selling expense
+                                          Divide by 90
+                                          Cost per yard = $0.9131
+
+       *       *       *       *
+
+  Article--CREPE GEORGETTE  Reed 50/2
+           (Taffeta weave) by 1 right, 1 left twist
+  Disp. 10  Width 40 in.  47 in. in reed
+    Warp--Ital. Ex. Class 16/18 Raw       $5.20
+                                           1.60
+                                          -----
+      2-Thread hardtwist 75 turns         $6.80            $36.72
+    30% shrinkage and waste lbs. 5.40
+    Warping--4640/1  30/2  4760 at 4c.                       1.90
+    Twisting--4700 at 50c. 600 meters                         .40
+    Filling--Same silk as warp
+             100 picks by 2 right, 2 left
+             twist                        $5.20
+                                           1.60
+                                            .10
+                                           ----
+             lbs. 5.00                    $6.90             34.50
+    Weaving                                                 15.00
+    Picking                                                  1.00
+    Finishing and dyeing                                     6.00
+                                                           ------
+                                                           $95.52
+    Expenses 121/2%                                           11.94
+                                                          -------
+                                                          $107.46
+                                          Divide by 871/2
+                                          Cost per yard = $1.2281
+
+                                                                 [Page 110]
+CALCULATION BLANK
+
+  ARTICLE_____________________________________REED_____________________
+
+  DISP________________________________________WIDTH____________________
+
+  WARP_________________________________________________________________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  --------------------------------------------|---|---|---|---|--------
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  --------------------------------------------|---|---|---|---|--------
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  --------------------------------------------|---|---|---|---|--------
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  WARPING_____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  TWISTING____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  FILLING_____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  ____________________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  WEAVING_____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  PICKING_____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  FINISHING___________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  EXPENSES____________________________________|___|___|___|___|________
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+                                              |   |   |   |   |
+  --------------------------------------------+---+---+---+---+--------
+
+
+                            PRICE PER YARD
+
+                                                                 [Page 111]
+INDEX
+
+  DRAWING-IN, 7
+    Straight Draws, 7
+    Skip Draws, 9
+    Point Draws, 9
+    Section Draws, 10
+  THE WEAVES AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION, 15
+    The Taffeta Weave, 17
+    Gros de Tours Weaves, 19
+    Serge Weaves, 20
+    Twill Weaves, 20
+  FILLING EFFECTS 21
+    Satin de Lyon, 21
+    Levantine, 21
+    Polonaise, 22
+    Serge grosse cote, 22
+    Serge Romaine, 23
+    Serge, 23
+  WARP EFFECTS, 25
+    Levantine, 25
+  EVENSIDED TWILLS, 26
+    Surah, 26
+    Croise, 26
+  POINTED TWILLS, 27
+  SATIN WEAVES, 32
+    Satine de Chine, 34
+    Satin Merveilleux, 34
+    7 Harness Satin, 35
+    Duchesse, 35
+  IRREGULAR SATINS, 39
+    Satin Ture, 39
+    Satin a la Reine, 40
+  DERIVATIVE WEAVES, 41
+    From the Taffeta, 41
+    From the Twills, 43
+    From the Satin Weave, 46
+    Cannele and Repp Weaves, 49
+  DOUBLE FACED FABRICS, 55
+    Warp Effects, 55
+  FILLING EFFECTS, 58
+    Pekins, 60
+    Bayaderes, 63
+                                                                 [Page 112]
+    Checks and Plaids, 65
+  DECOMPOSITION, 67
+    The Weave, 68
+    Length and Width of the Fabric, 68
+    The Stock and Its Dye, 69
+    Reed Calculation, 70
+    Drawing-in the Warp in Harness and Reed, 70
+    Warping Ticket, 71
+    Harness Arrangement, 71
+    Reduction of the Filling, 71
+    Calculation of Warp and Filling, 71
+    Finishing, 72
+    Calculation of Cost, 72
+  DISPOSITIONS, 75
+  JACQUARD WEAVES, 100
+    Box Loom Weaves Including Crepes, 100
+    Manufacturing Costs, 101
+  CALCULATIONS, 103
+    Calculation Blank, 110
+
+                                                                 [Page 113]
+OTHER BOOKS
+
+Published by
+
+CLIFFORD & LAWTON 373 Fourth Avenue New York.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE AMERICAN SILK JOURNAL
+
+Established 1882. A monthly magazine devoted exclusively to dress silks,
+ribbons, and all silken materials, reflecting the progress of mill and
+market, fashions, trade events and news. Published on the first of each
+month.
+
+Subscription: United States, $3; Canada, $3.50; Foreign, $4 a year.
+
+SERIVALOR or the True Value of Raw Silk
+
+By ADOLF ROSENZWEIG,
+
+The great international authority on silk. A practical and logical system
+of standardizing raw silks. Price, $4.25 postpaid.
+
+DICTIONARY OF SILK TERMS
+
+The most complete and authentic dictionary ever published on silk terms,
+from the raw silk to the finished broad and narrow silks, including weaves,
+styles, patterns, effects, colors, trade-marks, etc. Bound in cloth, 93
+pages, price, $1.50 postpaid.
+
+COLOR VALUE
+
+By C.R. CLIFFORD.
+
+A valuable book treating on color contrasts and harmonies. It will assist
+the manufacturer, styler, designer and retailer in the selection of colors.
+Colored plates and diagrams illustrating the fundamental principles of the
+subject, of inestimable value to either student or artisan. Price, $1.50
+postpaid.
+
+PERIOD FURNISHINGS
+
+By C.R. CLIFFORD
+
+An encyclopedia of furnishings, decorations, furniture. Contains 2,731
+illustrations, 266 pages, size 91/4 x 12; 112 fabric illustrations, covering
+all periods. Price, $6.00 postpaid.
+
+
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