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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:44:34 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:44:34 -0700 |
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diff --git a/14464-h/14464-h.htm b/14464-h/14464-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5192a56 --- /dev/null +++ b/14464-h/14464-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,20204 @@ + +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>Voyages and Travels Volume 13</title> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content= +"text/html; charset=UTF-8"> +<style type="text/css"> +<!-- +body {background: #ffffcc; margin:10%; text-align:justify} +h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {color:green; text-align:center} +blockquote {font-size: .9em} +p.poem {text-align:center} +p.external {font-weight: bold} +--> +</style> +</head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14464 ***</div> + +<h2>A</h2> + +<h2>GENERAL</h2> + +<h2>HISTORY AND COLLECTION</h2> + +<h2>OF</h2> + +<h1>VOYAGES AND TRAVELS,</h1> + +<h2>ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER:</h2> + +<h2>FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND PROGRESS</h2> + +<h2>OF NAVIGATION, DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE,</h2> + +<h2>BY SEA AND LAND,</h2> + +<h2>FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO THE PRESENT TIME.</h2> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<h2>BY</h2> + +<h2>ROBERT KERR, F.R.S. & F.A.S. EDIN.</h2> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<h2>ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS.</h2> + +<h2>VOL. XIII.</h2> + +<h3>WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH:</h3> + +<h3>AND T. CADELL, LONDON.</h3> + +<h3>MDCCCXXIV.</h3> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<h2>CONTENTS OF VOLUME XIII.</h2> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a href="#part3"><b>PART III.</b></a></p> + +<p><i>General Voyages and Travels of Discovery, &c.</i></p> + +<p><a href="#book3-1"><b>BOOK I.</b></a></p> + +<p>An Account of the Voyages undertaken by order of his Majesty, +George III, for making Discoveries in the Southern Hemisphere; and +successively performed, by Commodore Byron, Captains Wallis and +Carteret, and Lieutenant Cook.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter3-4"><b><i>CHAPTER IV.</i></b></a></p> + +<p>SECT. XVII. + +<p>A particular Description of the Island of Otaheite; its Produce and +Inhabitants; their Dress, Habitation, Food, Domestic Life and +Amusements. + +<p>SECTION XVIII. + +<p>Of the Manufactures, Boats, and Navigation of Otaheite. + +<p>SECTION XIX. + +<p>Of the Division of Time at Otaheite; Numeration, Computation of +Distance, Language, Diseases, Disposal of the Dead, Religion, War, +Weapons, and Government; with some general Observations for the Use of +future Navigators. + +<p>SECTION XX. + +<p>Description of the several Islands in the Neighbourhood of Otaheite, +with various Incidents; a Dramatic Entertainment; and many Particulars +relative to the Customs and Manners of the Inhabitants. + +<p>SECTION XXI. + +<p>The Passage from Oteroah to New Zealand; Incidents which happened in +going ashore there, and while the Ship lay in Poverty Bay. + +<p>SECTION XXII. + +<p>A Description of Poverty Bay, and the Face of the adjacent Country. The +Range from thence to Cape Turnagain, and back to Tolaga, with some +Account of the People and the Country and several Incidents that +happened on that Part of the Coast. + +<p>SECTION XXIII. + +<p>The Range from Tolaga to Mercury Bay, with an Account of many Incidents +that happened both on board and ashore: A Description of several Views +exhibited by the Country, and of the Hippahs, or fortified Villages of +the Inhabitants. + +<p>SECTION XXIV. + +<p>The Range from Mercury Bay to the Bay of Islands: An Expedition up the +River Thames: Some Account of the Indians who inhabit its Banks, and the +fine Timber that grows there: Several Interviews with the Natives on +different Parts of the Coast, and a Skirmish with them upon an Island. + +<p>SECTION XXV. + +<p>Range from the Bay of Islands round North Cape to Queen Charlotte's +Island; and a Description of that Part of the Coast. + +<p>SECTION XXVI. + +<p>Transactions in Queen Charlotte's Sound; Passage through the Streight +which divides the two Islands, and back to Cape Turnagain: Horrid Custom +of the Inhabitants: Remarkable Melody of Birds: A Visit to a Hippah, and +many other Particulars. + +<p>SECTION XXVII. + +<p>Range from Cape Turnagain along the eastern Coast of Poenammoo, round +Cape South, and back to the Entrance of Cook's Streight, which completed +the Circumnavigation of the Country; with a Description of the Coast, +and of Admiralty Bay: The Departure from New Zealand, and various +Particulars. + +<p>SECTION XXVIII. + +<p>The Run from New Zealand to Botany Bay, on the East Coast of New +Holland, now called New South Wales; various Incidents that happened +there; with some Account of the Country end its Inhabitants. + +<p>SECTION XXIX. + +<p>The Range from Botany Bay; with a farther Account of the Country, and +its Inhabitants and Productions. + +<p>SECTION XXX. + +<p>Dangerous Situation of the Ship in her Course from Trinity Bay to +Endeavour River. + +<p>SECTION XXXI. + +<p>Transactions while the Ship was refitting in Endeavour River: A +Description of the adjacent Country, its Inhabitants and Productions. + +<p>SECTION XXXII. + +<p>Departure from Endeavour River; a particular Description of the Harbour +there, in which the Ship was refitted, the adjacent Country, and several +Islands near the Coast; the Range from Endeavour River to the Northern +Extremity of the Country, and the Dangers of that Navigation. + +<p>SECTION XXXIII. + +<p>Departure from New South Wales; a particular Description of the Country, +its Products, and People: A Specimen of the Language, and some +Observations on the Currents and Tides. + +<p>SECTION XXXIV. + +<p>The Passage from New South Wales to New Guinea, with an Account of what +happened upon landing there. + +<p>SECTION XXXV. + +<p>The Passage from New Guinea to the Island of Semau, and the Transactions +there. + +<p>SECTION XXXVI. + +<p>A particular Description of the Island of Savu, its Produce, and +Inhabitants, with a Specimen of their Language. + +<p>SECTION XXXVII. + +<p>The Run from the Island of Savu to Batavia, and an Account of the +Transactions there while the Ship was refitting. + +<p>SECTION XXVIII. + +<p>Some Account of Batavia, and the adjacent Country; with the Fruits, +flowers, and other Productions. + +<p>SECTION XXXIX. + +<p>Some Account of the Inhabitants of Batavia, and the adjacent Country, +their Manners, Customs, and Manner of Life. + +<p>SECTION XL. + +<p>The Passage from Batavia to the Cape of Good Hope, Some Account of +Prince's Island and its Inhabitants. Our Arrival at the Cape of Good +Hope. Some Remarks on the Run from Java Head to that Place, and to Saint +Helena. The Return of the Ship to England. + +<p><a href="#appendix"><b><i>APPENDIX.</i></b></a></p> + +<p>An Abstract of the Voyage round the World, performed by Lewis de +Bougainville, Colonel of Foot, and Commander of the Expedition, in the +Frigate La Boudeuse, and the Storeship L'Etoile, in the Years 1766-7-8, +and 9, drawn up expressly for this Work. + +<h2>A GENERAL HISTORY AND COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS.</h2> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> + +<h2><a name="part3" id="part3">PART III.</a></h2> + +<h2><a name="book3-1" id="book3-1">BOOK I.</a></h2> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> + +<h2><a name="chapter3-4" id="chapter3-4">CHAPTER IV.</a></h2> + +<p>SECTION XVII. + +<p><i>A particular Description of the Island of Otaheite; its Produce and +Inhabitants; their Dress, Habitations, Food, Domestic Life and +Amusements.</i> + +<p>We found the longitude of Port Royal bay, in this island, as settled by +Captain Wallis, who discovered it on the 9th of June, 1767, to be within +half a degree of the truth. We found Point Venus, the northern extremity +of the island, and the eastern point of the bay, to lie in the longitude +of 149°13', this being the mean result of a great number of observations +made upon the spot. The island is surrounded by a reef of coral rock, +which forms several excellent bays and harbours, some of which have been +particularly described, where there is room and depth of water far any +number of the largest ships. Port Royal bay, called by the natives +Matavai which is not inferior to any in Otaheite, may easily be known, +by a very high mountain in the middle of the island, which bears due +south from Point Venus. To sail into it; either keep the west point of +the reef that lies before Point Venus, close on board, or give it a +birth of near half a mile, in order to avoid a small shoal of coral +rocks, on which there is but two fathoms and a half of water. The best +anchoring is on the eastern side of the bay, where there is sixteen and +fourteen fathom upon an oosy bottom. The shore of the bay is a fine +sandy beach, behind which runs a river of fresh water, so that any +number of ships may water here without incommoding each other; but the +only wood for firing, upon the whole island, is that of fruit-trees, +which must be purchased of the natives, or all hope of living upon good +terms with them given up. + +<p>The face of the country, except that part of it which borders upon the +sea, is very uneven; it rises in ridges that run up into the middle of +the island, and there form mountains, which may be seen at the distance +of sixty miles: Between the foot of these ridges and the sea, is a +border of low land, surrounding the whole island, except in a few places +where the ridges rise directly from the sea: The border of low land is +in different parts of different breadths, but no where more than a mile +and a half. The soil, except upon the very tops of the ridges, is +extremely rich and fertile, watered by a great number of rivulets of +excellent water, and covered with fruit-trees of various kinds, some of +which are of a stately growth and thick foliage, so as to form, one +continued wood; and even the tops of the ridges, though in general they +are bare, and burnt up by the sun, are, in some parts, not without their +produce. + +<p>The low land that lies between the foot of the ridges and the sea, and +some of the vallies, are the only parts of the island that are +inhabited, and here it is populous; the houses do not form villages or +towns, but are ranged along the whole border at the distance of about +fifty yards from each other, with little plantations of plantains, the +tree which furnishes them with cloth. The whole island, according to +Tupia's account, who certainly knew, could furnish six thousand seven +hundred and eighty fighting men, from which the number of inhabitants +may easily, be computed.[1] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 1: It is questionable if the whole existing population of the +island amount to the number now mentioned. Such has been the decrease of +its interesting but licentious inhabitants since the time of Cook, to +which, it is melancholy to be obliged to say, their intercourse with +Europeans has most rapidly contributed. The reader is referred, for some +information on this point, to the account of Turnbull's voyage, +published in 1805. A few particulars as to the appearance of Otaheite, +on the authority of subsequent accounts, may be given with satisfaction +to the reader. The island, which consists of two peninsulas connected by +a low neck or isthmus covered with trees and shrubs but quite +uninhabited, presents a mountainous aspect, rising high in the centre, +with narrow valleys of romantic but luxuriantly pleasing scenery, and +well watered, studding its verdant surface. The lofty and clustering +hills of which the greater part of the island is formed, and which, +however steep of ascent, or abrupt in termination, are clothed to the +very summit with trees of very various colours and sizes, are encircled +with a rich border of low land, the proper seat of the inhabitants, who +seem to realize, in its fertility and beauty, all that human imagination +can conceive requisite for animal enjoyment. The soil of this border, +and of the valleys, is a blackish mould; that of the hills is different, +changing as you ascend them into variously coloured earth and marl. The +beds of the streams and rivers, which swell into torrents during the +rainy season, consist of stones and gravel, often of a flinty nature, +and often also containing particles of iron. Some basaltic appearances +in one of the districts into which the island is divided, and several +precipices among the mountains, evidently produced by sudden violence, +indicate the volcanic origin of this highly favoured country. There is +plenty of good water to be had over all the island. The weather from +March till August is usually mild and pleasant. During the rough season, +which lasts from December till March, the wind often blows very hard +from the west, and is attended with rain.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The produce of this island is bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas of +thirteen sorts, the best we had ever eaten; plantains; a fruit not +unlike an apple, which, when ripe, is very pleasant; sweet potatoes, +yams, cocoas, a kind of <i>Arum</i> fruit known here by the name of +<i>Jambu</i>, and reckoned most delicious; sugar-cane, which the inhabitants +eat raw; a root of the salop kind, called by the inhabitants <i>Pea</i>; a +plant called <i>Ethee</i>, of which the root only is eaten; a fruit that +grows in a pod, like that of a large kidney-bean, which, when it is +roasted, eats very much like a chesnut, by the natives called <i>Ahee</i>; a +tree called <i>Wharra</i>, called in the East Indies <i>Pandanes</i>, which +produces fruit, something like the pine-apple; a shrub called <i>Nono</i>; +the <i>Morinda</i>, which also produces fruit; a species of fern, of which +the root is eaten, and sometimes the leaves; and a plant called <i>Theve</i>, +of which the root also is eaten: But the fruits of the <i>Nono</i>, the fern, +and the <i>Theve</i>, are eaten only by the inferior people, and in times of +scarcity. All these, which serve the inhabitants for food, the earth +produces spontaneously, or with so little culture, that they seem to be +exempted from the first general curse, that "man should eat his bread in +the sweat of his brow." They have also the Chinese paper mulberry, +<i>morus papyrifera</i>, which they call <i>Aouto</i>; a tree resembling the wild +fig-tree of the West Indies; another species of fig, which they call +<i>Mattè</i>; the <i>cordia sebestina orientalis</i>, which they call <i>Etou</i>; a +kind of Cyprus grass, which they call <i>Moo</i>; a species of +<i>tournefortia</i>, which they call <i>Taheinoo</i>; another of the <i>convolvulus +poluce</i>, which they call <i>Eurhe</i>; the <i>solanum centifolium</i>, which they +call <i>Ebooa</i>; the <i>calophyllum mophylum</i>, which they call <i>Tamannu</i>; the +<i>hibiscus tiliaceus</i>, called <i>Poerou</i>, a frutescent nettle; the <i>urtica +argentea</i>, called <i>Erowa</i>; with many other plants which cannot here be +particularly mentioned: Those that have been named already will be +referred to in the subsequent part of this work. + +<p>They have no European fruit, garden stuff, pulse, or legumes, nor grain +of any kind. + +<p>Of tame animals they have only hogs, dogs, and poultry; neither is there +a wild animal in the island, except ducks, pigeons, paroquets, with a +few other birds, and rats, there being no other quadruped, nor any +serpent. But the sea supplies them with great variety of most excellent +fish, to eat which is their chief luxury, and to catch it their +principal labour.[2] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 2: It was no doubt a work of supererogation in the +missionaries, to attempt to augment the stock of animal provision in +this island, to which nature had been so bountiful in dispensing her +favours. This however they did, but with little success. The natives +were too amply furnished with pleasant and wholesome aliment, to +undertake the care of cattle, which accordingly either perished from +neglect, or were suffered to turn wild in their mountains. The +imperfection too of their cookery operations not a little tended to +bring beef and mutton into contempt. Instead of dressing them in some of +the European methods, they treated them, as they did their dogs and +hogs, by the process of burning. The consequence was, the skin became as +tough as leather, and the taste very offensive. These were formidable +difficulties, to people of such nice sense as the Otaheitans, who were +therefore readily induced to revert to their own stock. See account of +the missionary voyage, for a good deal of information on the subjects +alluded to in this note.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>As to the people, they are of the largest size of Europeans. The men are +tall, strong, well-limbed, and finely shaped. The tallest that we saw +was a man upon a neighbouring island, called <i>Huaheine</i>, who measured +six feet three inches and a half. The women of the superior rank are +also in general above our middle stature, but those of the inferior +class are rather below it, and some of them are very small. This defect +in size probably proceeds from their early commerce with men, the only +thing in which they differ from their superiors, that could possibly +affect their growth. + +<p>Their natural complexion is that kind of clear olive, or <i>brunette</i>, +which many people in Europe prefer to the finest white and red. In those +that are exposed to the wind and sun, it is considerably deepened, but +in others that live under shelter, especially the superior class of +women, it continues of its native hue, and the skin is most delicately +smooth and soft; they have no tint in their cheeks, which we distinguish +by the name of colour. The shape of the face is comely, the cheek-bones +are not high, neither are the eyes hollow, nor the brow prominent; The +only feature that does not correspond with our ideas of beauty is the +nose, which, in general, is somewhat flat; but their eyes, especially +those of the women, are full of expression, sometimes sparkling with +fire, and sometimes melting with softness; their teeth also are, almost +without exception, most beautifully even and white, and their breath +perfectly without taint.[3] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 3: The missionary account speaks less favourably of the +comeliness of these islanders. But this being a matter of taste, will of +course be very variously considered. The reader may amuse himself by +comparing the following quotation with the text, and forming his own +opinion. He will at all events readily admit, that nature has done more +for these people than art, and that the predominance of fashion is +amongst them, as it is sometimes elsewhere, accomplished at the expence +of beauty. "The natural colour of the inhabitants is olive, inclining to +copper. Some are very dark, as the fishermen, who are most exposed to +the sun and sea; but the women, who carefully clothe themselves, and +avoid the sun-beams, are but a shade or two darker than a European +brunette. Their eyes are black and sparkling; their teeth white and +even; their skin soft and delicate; their limbs finely turned; their +hair jetty, perfumed and ornamented with flowers; but we did not think +their features beautiful, as by continual pressure from infancy, which +they call <i>tourooma</i>, they widen the face with their hands, distend +their mouth, and flatten the nose and forehead, which gives them a too +masculine look; and they are in general large, and wide over the +shoulders; we were therefore disappointed in the judgment, we had formed +from the report of preceding visitors; and though here and there was to +be seen a living person who might be esteemed comely, we saw few who in +fact could be called beauties; yet they possess eminent feminine graces: +Their faces are never darkened with a scowl, or covered with a cloud of +sullenness or suspicion." This account fully concurs in what follows as +to the manners and behaviour of the Otaheitans.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The hair is almost universally black, and rather coarse; the men have +beards, which they wear in many fashions, always, however, plucking out +great part of them, and keeping the rest perfectly clean and neat. Both +sexes also eradicate every hair from under their arms, and accused us of +great uncleanness for not doing the same. In their motions there is at +once vigour and ease; their walk is graceful, their deportment liberal, +and their behaviour to strangers and to each other affable and +courteous. In their dispositions also, they seemed to be brave, open, +and candid, without either suspicion or treachery, cruelty, or revenge; +so that we placed the same confidence in them as in our best friends, +many of us, particularly Mr Banks, sleeping frequently in their houses +in the woods, without a companion, and consequently wholly in their +power. They were, however, all thieves; and when that is allowed, they +need not much fear a competition with the people of any other nation +upon earth. During our stay in this island we saw about five or six +persons like one that was met by Mr Banks and Dr Solander on the 24th of +April, in their walk to the eastward, whose skins were of a dead white, +like the nose of a white horse; with white hair, beard, brows, and +eyelashes; red, tender eyes; a short sight, and scurfy skins, covered +with a kind of white down; but we found that no two of these belonged to +the same family, and therefore concluded, that they were not a species, +but unhappy individuals, rendered anomalous by disease.[4] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 4: In the opinion here expressed the Editor has already +acquiesced. He would remark by the bye, that although two or more +persons had been of the same family, no sufficient argument could have +been adduced, as to the peculiar affection depending on circumstances +adequate to constitute a species; for it is very clear that hereditary +diseases do not necessarily imply essential distinctions, and there +seems no reason to alter the laws of logic in favour of the +Albinos.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>It is a custom in most countries where the inhabitants have long hair, +for the men to cut it short, and the women to pride themselves in its +length. Here, however, the contrary custom prevails; the women always +cut it short round their ears, and the men, except the fishers, who are +almost continually in the water, suffer it to flow in large waves over +their shoulders, or tie it up in a bunch on the top of their heads. + +<p>They have a custom also of anointing their heads with what they call +<i>monoe</i>, an oil expressed from the cocoa-nut, in which some sweet herbs +or flowers have been infused: As the oil is generally rancid, the smell +is at first very disagreeable to a European; and as they live in a hot +country, and have no such thing as a comb, they are not able to keep +their heads free from lice, which the children and common people +sometimes pick out and eat; a hateful custom, wholly different from +their manners in every other particular; for they are delicate and +cleanly almost without example, and those to whom we distributed combs, +soon delivered themselves from vermin, with a diligence which showed +that they were not more odious to us than to them.[5] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 5: This remark is scarcely consistent with what is related in +the missionary account, by which it appears that these vermin are +considered by the Otaheitans much in the same light as certain animals +were once in our own land, viz. royal property. The passage is too +curious to be omitted. It displays a very remarkable instance of that +ease and elegance, with which crowned heads can occasionally employ +themselves for the good of their subjects. "The mode of carrying the +king and queen is with their legs hanging down before, seated on the +shoulders and leaning on the head of their carriers, and very frequently +amusing themselves with picking out the vermin which there abound. It is +the singular privilege of the queen, that of all women, she alone may +eat them; which privilege she never fails to make use of." Such hunting +excursions are surely much more commendable, because much more innocent +in their own nature and more beneficial in their results, than those +practised amongst ourselves, at the risque of neck and limbs, and to the +still more important detriment of the farmer's gates and fences. The +point of privilege, perhaps, is less capable of defence--admitting, +however, for a moment, that pre-eminence of station and office entitles +the holder to singularity of inclination and conduct, as it is certainly +allowed to do in the case of some other sovereigns, the question then +becomes a mere matter of taste, and it is ungenerous to deny the +Otaheitan queen the benefit of the old maxim, <i>de gustibus non est +disputandum</i>.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They have a custom of staining their bodies, nearly in the same manner +as is practised in many other parts of the world, which they call +<i>tattowing</i>. They prick the skin, so as just not to fetch blood, with a +small instrument, something in the form of a hoe; that part which +answers to the blade is made of a bone or shell, scraped very thin, and +is from a quarter of an inch to an inch and a half wide; the edge is cut +into sharp teeth or points, from the number of three to twenty, +according to its size: When this is to be used, they dip the teeth into +a mixture of a kind of lamp-black, formed of the smoke that rises from +an oily nut which they burn instead of candles, and water; the teeth, +thus prepared, are placed upon the skin, and the handle to which they +are fastened being struck, by quick smart blows, with a stick fitted to +the purpose, they pierce it, and at the same time carry into the +puncture the black composition, which leaves an indelible stain. The +operation is painful, and it is some days before the wounds are healed. +It is performed upon the youth of both sexes when they are about twelve +or fourteen years of age, on several parts of the body, and in various +figures, according to the fancy of the parent, or perhaps the rank of +the party. The women are generally marked with this stain, in the form +of a Z, on every joint of their fingers and toes, and frequently round +the outside of their feet: The men are also marked with the same figure, +and both men and women have squares, circles, crescents, and +ill-designed representations of men, birds, or dogs, and various other +devices impressed upon their legs and arms, some of which we were told +had significations, though we could never learn what they were. But the +part on which these ornaments are lavished with the greatest profusion, +is the breech: This, in both sexes, is covered with a deep black; above +which, arches are drawn one over another as high as the short ribs. They +are often a quarter of an inch broad, and the edges are not straight +lines, but indented. These arches are their pride, and are shewn both by +men and women with a mixture of ostentation and pleasure; whether as an +ornament, or a proof of their fortitude and resolution in bearing pain, +we could not determine. The face in general is left unmarked; for we saw +but one instance to the contrary. Some old men had the greatest part of +their bodies covered with large patches of black, deeply indented at the +edges, like a rude imitation of flame; but we were told, that they came +from a low island, called <i>Noouoora</i>, and were not natives of Otaheite. + +<p>Mr Banks saw the operation of <i>tattowing</i> performed upon the backside of +a girl about thirteen years old. The instrument used upon this occasion +had thirty teeth, and every stroke, of which at least a hundred were +made in a minute, drew an ichor or serum a little tinged with blood. The +girl bore it with most Stoical resolution for about a quarter of an +hour; but the pain of so many hundred punctures as she had received in +that time then became intolerable: She first complained in murmurs, then +wept, and at last burst into loud lamentations, earnestly imploring the +operator to desist. He was, however, inexorable; and when she began to +struggle, she was held down by two women, who sometimes soothed and +sometimes chid her, and now and then, when she was most unruly, gave her +a smart blow. Mr Banks staid in a neighbouring house an hour, and the +operation was not over when he went away; yet it was performed but upon +one side, the other having been done some time before; and the arches +upon the loins, in which they most pride themselves, and which give more +pain than all the rest, were still to be done. + +<p>It is strange that these people should value themselves upon what is no +distinction; for I never saw a native of this island, either man or +woman, in a state of maturity, in whom these marks were wanting: +Possibly they may have their rise in superstition, especially as they +produce no visible advantage, and are not made without great pain; but +though we enquired of many hundreds, we could never get any account of +the matter.[6] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 6: It is very remarkable that something like this tattowing +was practised among the Thracians of old, and was actually considered as +an indication of nobility. So says Herodotus in Terps. 6. The notion is +no way irrational, that early and semi-civilized people had no other way +of distinguishing ranks, than by making visible differences on the skin. +The original inhabitants of Britain, it is probable, meant the same +thing by their use of colouring substances. Though it is probable enough +too, that another purpose was also accomplished thereby, viz. +preservation in some degree from the inclemency of the climate. By some +authors, it has been imagined, that such painting rendered them more +terrible to their enemies, which was the reason for the practice. The +Indians of North Carolina, according to the curious account of them by +Surveyor-General Lawson, Lond. 1714, had still another reason for +something similar. Speaking of their use of varnish, pipe-clay, +lamp-black, &c. &c. for colouring their bodies before going out to war, +he says, "when these creatures are thus painted, they make the most +frightful figures that can be imitated by man, and seem more like devils +than human creatures. You may be sure that they are about some mischief +when you see them thus painted; for in all the hostilities which have +ever been acted against the English at any time, in several of the +plantations of America, the savages always appeared in this disguise, +whereby they might never after be discovered, or known by any of the +Christians that should happen to see them after they had made their +escape; for it is impossible even to know an Indian under these colours, +although he has been at your house a thousand times, and you know him at +other times as well as you do any person living."--Mr Bryan Edwards +mentions something of the Charaibes like this. "Not satisfied with the +workmanship of nature, they called in the assistance of art, to make +themselves more formidable. They painted their faces and bodies with +arnotto so extravagantly, that their natural complexion, which was +really that of a Spanish olive, was not easily to be distinguished under +the surface of crimson. However, as this mode of painting themselves was +practised by both sexes, perhaps it was at first introduced as a defence +against the venomous insects, so common in tropical climates, or +possibly they considered the brilliancy of the colour as highly +ornamental." These Charaibes had other ways of deforming themselves, +some of which resembled what we shall find described in the course of +this work. They made deep cuts on their cheeks, and stained them black; +and painted white and black circles round their eyes. The tatooing which +Mr Barrow speaks of, as practised in part of Africa where he travelled, +one should incline to imagine very different from what is in fashion at +Otaheite, which, according to our text, affords any other than +pleasurable sensations to the person undergoing this operation. The +reader may judge for himself, at least so far as idea goes. "A greater +degree of amusement (than what their music and dancing yield) seems to +be derived by the women from the practice of <i>tatooing</i>, or, marking the +body, by raising the epidermis from the cuticle; a custom that has been +found to exist among most of the uncivilized nations inhibiting warm +countries, and which probably owes its origin to a total want of mental +resources, and of the employment of time. By slightly irritating, it +conveys to the body pleasurable sensations. In Kafferland it has passed +into a general fashion. No woman is without a tatooed skin; and their +ingenuity is chiefly exercised between the breast and on the arms." Such +a description corresponds with the notion of some frequently renewed +beautfyings of the toilet, rather than that of the infliction of deep +and indelible marks, as are prescribed in the Otaheitan ritual. Thus we +may see here, as in other instances, that different motives give rise to +similar practices.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Their clothing consists of cloth or matting of different kinds, which +will be described among their other manufactures. The cloth, which will +not bear wetting, they wear in dry weather, and the matting when it +rains; they are put on in many different ways, just as their fancy leads +them; for in their garments nothing is cut into shape, nor are any two +pieces sewed together. The dress of the better sort of women consists of +three or four pieces: One piece, about two yards wide, and eleven yards +long, they wrap several times round their waist, so as 'to hang down +like a petticoat as low as the middle of the leg, and this they call +<i>Parou</i>: Two or three other pieces, about two yards and a half long, and +one wide, each having a hole cut in the middle, they place one upon +another, and then putting the head through the holes, they bring the +long ends down before and behind; the others remain open at the sides, +and give liberty to the arms: This, which they call the <i>Tebuta</i>, is +gathered round the waist, and confined with a girdle or sash of thinner +cloth, which is long enough, to go many times round them, and exactly +resembles the garment worn by the inhabitants of Peru and Chili, which +the Spaniards call <i>Poncho</i>. The dress of the men is the same, except +that, instead of suffering the cloth that is wound about the hips to +hang down like a petticoat, they bring it between their legs so as to +have some resemblance to breeches, and it is then called <i>Maro</i>. This is +the dress of all ranks of people, and being universally the same as to +form, the gentlemen and ladies distinguish themselves from the lower +people by the quantity; some of them will wrap round them several pieces +of cloth, eight or ten yards long, and two or three broad; and some +throw a large piece loosely over their shoulders, in the manner of a +cloke, or perhaps two pieces, if they are very great personages, and are +desirous to appear in state. The inferior sort, who have only a small +allowance of cloth from the tribes or families to which they belong, are +obliged to be more thinly clad. In the heat of the day they appear +almost naked, the women having only a scanty petticoat, and the men +nothing but the sash that is passed between their legs and fastened +round the waist. As finery is always troublesome, and particularly in a +hot country, where it consists in putting one covering upon another, the +women of rank always uncover themselves as low as the waist in the +evening, throwing off all that they wear on the upper part of the body, +with the same negligence and ease as our ladies would lay by a cardinal +or double handkerchief. And the chiefs, even when they visited us, +though they had as much cloth round their middle as would clothe a dozen +people, had frequently the rest of the body quite naked. + +<p>Upon their legs and feet they wear no covering; but they shade their +faces from the sun with little bonnets, either of matting or of +cocoa-nut leaves, which they make occasionally in a few minutes. This, +however, is not all their head-dress; the women sometimes wear little +turbans, and sometimes a dress which they value much more, and which, +indeed, is much more becoming, called <i>Tomou</i>; the <i>Tomou</i> consists of +human hair, plaited in threads, scarcely thicker than sewing silk. Mr +Banks got pieces of it above a mile in length, without a knot. These +they wind round the head in such a manner as produces a very pretty +effect, and in a very great quantity; for I have seen five or six such +pieces wound about the head of one woman: Among these threads they stick +flowers of various kinds, particularly the cape-jessamine, of which they +have great plenty, as it is always planted near their houses. The men +sometimes stick the tail-feather of the Tropic-bird upright in their +hair, which, as I have observed before, is often tied in a bunch upon +the top of their heads: Sometimes they wear a kind of whimsical garland, +made of flowers of various kinds, stuck into a piece of the rind of a +plantain; or of scarlet peas, stuck with gum upon a piece of wood: And +sometimes they wear a kind of wig, made of the hair of men or dogs, or +perhaps of cocoa-nut strings, woven upon one thread, which is tied under +their hair, so that these artificial honours of their head may hang down +behind. Their personal ornaments, besides flowers, are few; both sexes +wear ear-rings, but they are placed only on one side: When we came they +consisted of small pieces of shell, stone, berries, red peas, or some +small pearls, three in a string; but our beads very soon supplanted them +all. + +<p>The children go quite naked; the girls till they are three or four years +old, and the boys till they are six or seven. + +<p>The houses, or rather dwellings of these people, have been occasionally +mentioned before: They are all built in the wood, between the sea and +the mountains, and no more ground is cleared for each house, than just +sufficient to prevent the dropping of the branches from rotting the +thatch with which they are covered; from the house, therefore, the +inhabitant steps immediately under the shade, which is the most +delightful that can be imagined. It consists of groves of bread-fruit +and cocoa-nuts, without underwood, which are intersected, in all +directions, by the paths that lead from one house to the other. Nothing +can be more grateful than this shade in so warm a climate, nor any thing +more beautiful than these walks. As there is no underwood, the shade +cools without impeding the air; and the houses, having no walls, receive +the gale from whatever point it blows. I shall now give a particular +description of a house of a middling size, from which, as the structure +is universally the same, a perfect idea may be formed both of those that +are bigger, and those that are less. + +<p>The ground winch it covers is an oblong square, four and twenty feet +long, and eleven wide; over this a roof is raised, upon three rows of +pillars or posts, parallel to each other, one on each side, and the +other in the middle. This roof consists of two flat sides inclining to +each other, and terminating in a ridge, exactly like the roofs of our +thatched houses in England. The utmost height within is about nine feet, +and the eaves on each side reach to within about three feet and a half +of the ground: Below this, and through the whole height at each end, it +is open, no part of it being enclosed with a wall. The roof is thatched +with palm-leaves, and the floor is covered, some inches deep, with soft +hay; over this are laid mats, so that the whole is one cushion, upon +which they sit in the day, and sleep in the night. In some houses, +however, there is one stool, which is wholly appropriated to the master +of the family; besides this, they have no furniture, except a few little +blocks of wood, the upper side of which is hollowed into a curve, and +which serve them for pillows. + +<p>The house is indeed principally used as a dormitory; for, except it +rains, they eat in the open air, under the shade of the next tree. The +clothes that they wear in the day serve them for covering in the night; +the floor is the common bed of the whole household, and is not divided +by any partition. The master of the house and his wife sleep in the +middle, next to them the married people, next to them the unmarried +women, and next to them, at a little distance, the unmarried men; the +servants, or <i>toutous</i>, as they are called, sleep in the open air, +except it rains, and in that case they come just within the shed.[7] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 7: If the Otaheitans were little benefited by the attempts of +Europeans to rear cattle among them, as we have seen, they were +certainly indebted for the introduction of another race of animals, not +at all likely to degenerate or die out in a climate so much more +congenial to their nature, than the comparatively inclement regions of +our hemisphere, where, notwithstanding the activity of hostile hands, +they are known to propagate with most vexatious activity. "Their +houses," says the missionary account, "are full of fleas, which harbour +in the floor, and are very troublesome, though the natives are much less +affected by them than we are; they say they were brought to them by the +Europeans. One of our missionaries writes, he has been obliged to get up +at midnight, and to run into the sea to cool himself, and to get rid of +the swarm of disagreeable companions." The poor missionary was worse off +among the fleas, than even Mr Barrow in the midst of the musquitoes, +from which, it does not seem, that he ever had occasion to seek refuge, +in any such untimely ablution.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>There are, however, houses of another kind, belonging to the chiefs, in +which there is some degree of privacy. These are much smaller, and so +constructed as to be carried about in their canoes from place to place, +and set up occasionally, like a tent; they are enclosed on the sides +with cocoa-nut leaves, but not so close as to exclude the air, and the +chief and his wife sleep in them alone. + +<p>There are houses also of a much larger size, not built either for the +accommodation of a single chief, or a single family; but as common +receptacles for all the people of a district. Some of them are two +hundred feet long, thirty broad, and, under the ridge, twenty feet high; +these are built and maintained at the common expence of the district, +for the accommodation of which they are intended; and have on one side +of them a large area, inclosed with low pallisadoes. + +<p>These houses, like those of separate families, have no walls. Privacy, +indeed, is little wanted among people who have not the idea of +indecency, and who gratify every appetite and passion before witnesses, +with no more sense of impropriety than we feel when we satisfy our +hunger at a social board with our family or friends. Those who have no +idea of indecency with respect to actions, can have none with respect to +words; it is, therefore, scarcely necessary to observe, that, in the +conversation of these people, that which is the principal source of +their pleasure, is always the principal topic; and that every thing is +mentioned without any restraint or emotion, and in the most direct +terms, by both sexes.[8] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 8: Let us for once hear the missionary account, in palliation +at least, of such clamant enormities. "They have no partitions in their +houses; but it may be affirmed, they have in many instances more refined +ideas of decency than ourselves; and one long a resident, scruples not +to declare, that he never saw any appetite, hunger and thirst excepted, +gratified in public. It is too true, that for the sake of gaining our +extraordinary curiosities, and to please our brutes, they have appeared +immodest in the extreme. Yet they lay the charge wholly at our door, and +say, that Englishmen are ashamed of nothing, and that we have led them +to public acts of indecency never before practised among themselves. +Iron here, more precious than gold, bears down every barrier of +restraint. Honesty and modesty yield to the force of temptation." A +remark may be made here of some consequence. In estimating the momentum +of temptations, we ought to consider not only their direct strength, but +also what is known or believed of the extent of their influence on the +society to which people belong. A man, it is certain, will much more +readily acquiesce in those which he has reason to think common to his +fellow creatures, than in others exclusively directed to himself. In the +one case he anticipates sympathy, should he transgress; in the other, he +is deterred by the apprehension of being singular in guilt. The +Otaheitans were in the former predicament, and accordingly were perhaps +universally accessible to the charms of nails and hatchets and beads. +Whereas, it is probable, that had even similar solicitations been +attempted in any instances unknown to each other, they would perhaps +have been resisted. But vice once known to be established in society, +becomes daily more prolific of its kind, and, like the Fama of Virgil, +<i>vires acquirit eundo</i>. It is but fair to give these islanders the full +benefit of this principle, when we sit in assize on them. Pray who can +tell what would be the consequence of a visit from some of the +inhabitants of Saturn, or the Georgium Sidus, should they open up their +ultramundane treasures in sight of the British court? Is it conceivable, +that the lovers of embroidery, and lace and diamonds would resist the +witcheries of the strangers?--or that the marvellous effects of their +liberality in distribution, should be confined within the walls of St +James's? He that can wisely answer these questions, is at liberty to +return a verdict in the trial of the Otaheitans.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Of the food eaten here the greater part is vegetable. Here are no tame +animals except hogs, dogs, and poultry, as I have observed before, and +these are by no means plenty. When a chief kills a hog, if is almost +equally divided among his dependants; and as they are very numerous, the +share of each individual at these feasts, which are not frequent, must +necessarily be small. Dogs and fowls fall somewhat more frequently to +the share of the common people. I cannot much commend the flavour of +their fowls; but we all agreed, that a South Sea dog was little inferior +to an English lamb; their excellence is probably owing to their being +kept up, and fed wholly upon vegetables. The sea affords them a great +variety of fish. The smaller fish, when they catch any, are generally +eaten raw, as we eat oysters; and nothing that the sea produces comes +amiss to them: They are fond of lobsters, crabs, and other shell-fish, +which are found upon the coast; and they will eat not only sea-insects, +but what the seamen call <i>blubbers</i>, though some of them are so tough, +that they are obliged, to suffer them to become putrid before they can +be chewed. Of the many vegetables that have been mentioned already as +serving them for food, the principal is the bread-fruit, to procure +which costs them no trouble or labour but climbing a tree: The tree +which produces it, does not indeed shoot up spontaneously; but if a man +plants ten of them in his lifetime, which he may do in about an hour, he +will as completely fulfil his duty to his own and future generations, as +the natives of our less temperate climate can do by ploughing in the +cold of winter, and reaping in the summer's heat, as often as these +seasons return; even if, after he has procured bread for his present +household, he should convert a surplus into money, and lay it up for his +children. + +<p>It is true, indeed, that the bread-fruit is not always in season; but +cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains, and a great variety of other fruits, +supply the deficiency. + +<p>It may well be supposed, that cookery is but little studied by these +people as an art; and, indeed, they have but two ways of applying fire +to dress their food, broiling and baking; the operation of broiling is +so simple that it requires no description, and their baking has been +described already, in the account of an entertainment prepared for us by +Tupia. Hogs and large fish are extremely well dressed in the same +manner; and, in our opinion, were more juicy, and more equally done, +than by any art of cookery now practised in Europe. Bread-fruit is also +cooked in an oven of the same kind, which renders it soft, and something +like a boiled potatoe; not quite so farinaceous as a good one, but more +so than those of the middling sort. + +<p>Of the-bread-fruit they also make three dishes, by putting either water +or the milk of the cocoa-nut to it, then beating it to a paste with a +stone pestle, and afterwards mixing it with ripe plantains, bananas, or +the sour paste which they call <i>mahie</i>. + +<p>The mahie, which has been mentioned as a succedaneum for ripe +bread-fruit, before the season for gathering a fresh crop comes on, is +thus made: + +<p>The fruit is gathered just before it is perfectly ripe, and being laid +in heaps, is closely covered with leaves; in this state it undergoes a +fermentation, and becomes disagreeably sweet: The core is then taken out +entire, which is done by gently pulling the stalk, and the rest of the +fruit is thrown into a hole which is dug for that purpose, generally in +the houses, and neatly lined in the bottom and sides with grass; the +whole is then covered with leaves, and heavy stones laid upon them: In +this state it undergoes a second fermentation, and becomes sour, after +which it will suffer no change for many months: It is taken out of the +hole as it is wanted for use, and being made into balls, it is wrapped +up in leaves and baked; after it is dressed, it will keep five or +six-weeks. It is eaten both cold and hot, and the natives seldom make a +meal without it, though to us the taste was as disagreeable as that of a +pickled olive generally is the first time it is eaten. + +<p>As the making of this mahie depends, like brewing, upon fermentation, +so, like brewing, it sometimes fails, without their being able to +ascertain the cause; it is very natural, therefore, that the making it +should be connected with superstitious notions and ceremonies: It +generally falls to the lot of the old women, who will suffer no creature +to touch any thing belonging to it, but those whom they employ as +assistants, nor even to go into that part of the house where the +operation is carrying on. Mr Banks happened to spoil a large quantity of +it only by inadvertently touching a leaf which lay upon it. The old +woman, who then presided over these mysteries, told him, that the +process would fail; and immediately uncovered the hole in a fit of +vexation and despair. Mr Banks regretted the mischief he had done, but +was somewhat consoled by the opportunity which it gave him of examining +the preparation, which perhaps, but for such an accident, would never +have offered.[9] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 9: "This paste," we are told in the missionary account, "makes +a most nutritious and sweet pudding, and all the children of the family +and their relations feast on it eagerly. During this festive season they +seldom quit the house, and continue wrapped up in cloth: And it is +surprising to see them in a month become so fair and fat, that they can +scarcely breathe. The children afterwards grow amazingly. The baked +bread-fruit in this state very much in taste resembles gingerbread." +This delicate and wholesome provision, it is said, is not confined to +the chiefs and wealthier people, as all who will be at the pains to +provide an oven, may readily be supplied with bread-fruit from their +neighbours. Such is the generosity of these interesting people, that +all of a man's own rank are at all times ready to contribute largely to +his support, on his making known his need. In how many respects are +these islanders worthy of being held up as examples for us!--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Such is their food, to which salt-water is the universal sauce, no meal +being eaten without it: Those who live near the sea have it fetched as +it is wanted; those who live at some distance keep it in large bamboos, +which are set up in their houses for use. Salt-water, however, is not +their only sauce; they make another of the kernels of cocoa-nuts, which +being fermented till they dissolve into a paste somewhat resembling +butter, are beaten up with salt-water. The flavour of this is very +strong, and was, when we first tasted it, exceedingly nauseous; a little +use, however, reconciled some of our people to it so much, that they +preferred it to our own sauces, especially with fish. The natives seemed +to consider it as a dainty, and do not use it at their common meals; +possibly because they think it ill management to use cocoa-nuts so +lavishly, or perhaps when we were at the island, they were scarcely ripe +enough for the purpose. + +<p>For drink, they have in general nothing but water, or the juice of the +cocoa-nut; the art of producing liquors that intoxicate, by +fermentation, being happily unknown among them; neither have they any +narcotic which they chew, as the natives of some other countries do +opium, beetle-root, and tobacco. Some of them drank freely of our +liquors, and in a few instances became very drunk; but the persons to +whom this happened were so far from desiring to repeat the debauch, that +they would never touch any of our liquors afterwards. We were, however, +informed, that they became drunk by drinking a juice that is expressed +from the leaves of a plant which they call <i>ava ava</i>. This plant was not +in season when we were there, so that we saw no instances of its +effects; and as they considered drunkenness as a disgrace, they probably +would have concealed from us any instances which might have happened +during our stay. This vice is almost peculiar to the chiefs, and +considerable persons, who vie with each other in drinking the greatest +number of draughts, each draught being about a pint. They keep this +intoxicating juice with great care from their women.[10] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 10: Turnbull speaks of intoxication being quite common and +excessive at the feasts of the Otaheitans. And the reader will often +hear of the intemperate use and had effects of the ava or yava. The love +of this liquor, or its effects rather, must indeed be strong, to +reconcile them to the disgusting manner in which it is prepared. +"Several women," says the missionary account, "have each a portion +given them to chew of the stem and root (of the yava shrub) together, +which, when masticated, they spit into a bowl into which some of the +leaves of the plant are finely broken; they add water, or cocoa-nut +liquor: The whole is then well stirred, and begins quickly to ferment; +when it is strained or wrung out in the moo gross, or cocoa-nut fibres, +and drank in cups of folded leaves. It is highly intoxicating, and seems +for a while to deprive them of the use of their limbs: They lie down and +sleep till the effects are passed, and during the time have their limbs +chafed with their women's hands. A gill of the yava is a sufficient dose +for a man. When they drink it, they always eat something afterwards; and +frequently fall asleep with the provisions in their mouths: When drank +after a hearty meal, it produces but little effect." The writer forgets +his authority, but he remembers to have read of a practice somewhat more +economical, though not more delicate, than what is adopted at Otaheite. +The people are all passionately fond of the intoxicating beverage +prepared from mushrooms; as the common sort cannot procure it at first +hand, owing to its price, they are in the habit of attending at the +houses of the grandees, where entertainments are going on, provided with +vessels for the purpose of collecting the urine of the favoured few who +have drunk of it, which they eagerly swallow. The peculiar smell and +flavour, it seems, are preserved notwithstanding this percolation, and +are considered amply remunerative of the pains and importunity used to +obtain it. Such things are strikingly expressive of that worse than +brutish perversity which actuates man, when once his lusts have acquired +the dominion. It is lamentable to think, that after that conquest over +his reason and interest, his degradation in sensuality is in proportion +to his ingenuity of invention; and that no dignity of situation, or +splendour of office, or brilliancy of talent, can possibly redeem him +from the contempt and detestation of those whose good opinion it ought +to be his ambition to covet.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Table they have none; but their apparatus for eating is set out with +great neatness, though the articles are too simple and too few to allow +any thing for show: And they commonly eat alone; but when a stranger +happens to visit them, he sometimes makes a second in their mess. Of the +meal of one of their principal people I shall give a particular +description. + +<p>He sits down under the shade of the next tree, or on the shady side of +his house, and a large quantity of leaves, either of the bread-fruit or +banana, is neatly spread before him upon the ground as a table-cloth; a +basket is then set by him that contains his provision, which, if fish or +flesh, is ready dressed, and wrapped up in leaves, and two cocoa-nut +shells, one full of salt water, and the other of fresh: His attendants, +which are not few, seat themselves round him, and when all is ready, he +begins by washing his hands and his mouth thoroughly with the fresh +water, and this he repeats almost continually throughout the whole meal; +he then takes part of his provision out of the basket, which generally +consists of a small fish or two, two or three breadfruits, fourteen or +fifteen ripe bananas, or six or seven apples: He first takes half a +bread-fruit, peels off the rind, and takes out the core with his nails; +of this he puts as much into his mouth as it can hold, and while he +chews it, takes the fish out of the leaves, and breaks one of them into +the salt water, placing the other, and what remains of the bread-fruit, +upon the leaves that have been spread before him. When this is done, he +takes up a small piece of the fish that has been broken into the salt +water, with all the fingers of one hand, and sucks it into his mouth, so +as to get with it as much of the salt water as possible: In the same +manner he takes the rest by different morsels, and between each, at +least very frequently, takes a small sup of the salt water, either out +of the cocoa-nut shell or the palm of his hand: In the mean time one of +his attendants has prepared a young cocoa-nut, by peeling off the outer +rind with his teeth, an operation which to an European appears very +surprising; but it depends so much upon sleight, that many or us were +able to do it before we left the island, and some that could scarcely +crack a filbert: The master, when he chuses to drink, takes the +cocoa-nut thus prepared, and boring a hole through the shell with his +finger, or breaking it with a stone, he sucks out the liquor. When he +has eaten his bread-fruit and fish, he begins with his plantains, one of +which makes but a mouthful, though it be as big as a black-pudding; if +instead of plantains he has apples, he never tastes them till they have +been pared; to do this a shell is picked up from the ground, where they +are always in plenty, and tossed to him by an attendant: He immediately +begins to cut or scrape off the rind, but so awkwardly that great part +of the fruit is wasted. If, instead of fish, he has flesh, he must have +some succedaneum for a knife to divide it; and for this purpose a piece +of bamboo is tossed to him, of which he makes the necessary implement by +splitting it transversely with his nail. While all this has been doing, +some of his attendants have been employed in beating bread-fruit with a +stone-pestle upon a block of wood; by being beaten in this manner, and +sprinkled from time to time with water, it is reduced to the consistence +of a soft paste, and is then put into a vessel somewhat like a butcher's +tray, and either made up alone, or mixed with banana or mahie, according +to the taste of the master, by pouring water upon it by degrees and +squeezing it often through the hand: Under this operation it acquires +the consistence of a thick custard, and a large cocoa-nut shell full of +it being set before him, he sips it as we should do a jelly if we had +no spoon to take it from the glass: The meal is then finished by again +washing his hands and his mouth. After which the cocoa-nut shells are +cleaned, and every thing that is left is replaced in the basket. + +<p>The quantity of food which these people eat at a meal is prodigious: I +have seen one man devour two or three fishes as big as a perch; three +bread-fruits, each bigger than two fists; fourteen or fifteen plantains +or bananas, each of them six or seven inches long, and four or five +round; and near a quart of the pounded bread-fruit, which is as +substantial as the thickest unbaked custard. This is so extraordinary +that I scarcely expect to be believed; and I would not have related it +upon my own single testimony, but Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and most of the +other gentlemen, have had ocular demonstration of its truth, and know +that I mention them upon the occasion. + +<p>It is very wonderful, that these people, who are remarkably fond of +society, and particularly that of their women, should exclude its +pleasures from the table, where among all other nations, whether civil +or savage, they have been principally enjoyed.[11] How a meal, which +every where else brings families and friends together, came to separate +them here, we often enquired, but could never learn. They eat alone, +they said, because it was right; but why it was right to eat alone, they +never attempted to tell us: Such, however, was the force of habit, that +they expressed the strongest dislike, and even disgust, at our eating in +society, especially with our women, and of the same victuals. At first, +we thought this strange singularity arose from some superstitious +opinion; but they constantly affirmed the contrary. We observed also +some caprices in the custom, for which we could as little account as for +the custom itself. We could never prevail with any of the women to +partake of the victuals at our table when we were dining, in company; +yet they would go, five or six together, into the servants' apartments, +and there eat very heartily of whatever they could find, of which I have +before given a particular instance; nor were they in the least +disconcerted if we came in while they were doing it. When any of us have +been alone with a woman, she has sometimes eaten in our company; but +then she has expressed the greatest unwillingness that it should be +known, and always extorted the strongest promises of secrecy. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 11: This is not true, as the reader will find, if he knows it +not already, when he comes to the next note. Dr H. does not seem to have +read extensively on the customs of different nations. It is indeed +wonderful, that he did not advert to what had long been known of the +practices of the East. A single quotation from one author, may be +sufficient to prepare the reader for any additional information, on the +subject of the public separation of the sexes. "The regulations of the +haram," says Dr Russel, speaking of the Moosulmauns, "oppose a strong +barrier to curiosity; inveterate custom excludes females from mingling +in assemblies of the other sex, and even with their nearest +male-relations they appear to be under a restraint from which, perhaps, +they are never emancipated, except in familiar society among +themselves."--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Among themselves, even two brothers and two sisters have each their +separate baskets, with provision and the apparatus of their meal. When +they first visited us at our tents, each brought his basket with him; +and when we sat down to table, they would go out, sit down upon the +ground, at two or three yards distance from each other, and turning +their faces different ways, take their repast without interchanging a +single word. + +<p>The women not only abstain from eating with the men, and of the same +victuals, but even have their victuals separately prepared by boys kept +for that purpose, who deposit it in a separate shed, and attend them +with it at their meals. + +<p>But though they would not eat with us or with each other, they have +often asked us to eat with them, when we have visited those with whom we +were particularly acquainted at their houses; and we have often upon +such occasions eaten out of the same basket, and drunk out of the same +cup. The elder women, however, always appeared to be offended at this +liberty; and if we happened to touch their victuals, or even the basket +that contained it, would throw it away.[12] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 12: Nothing can be more difficult in the way of philosophical +investigation, than to ascertain the origin and reasons of the customs, +opinions, and prejudices established among different people. Their +variety is quite destructive of any theory which might be built on the +well-known general principles of human nature; and their insignificance +often derides every process of formal enquiry, which attempts by any +thing more recondite than the supposition of whim or caprice, to account +for them. The peculiarities of all nations are, perhaps, on a par in +this respect, and only escape scrutiny and wonder, because unnoticed by +those to whom they are not familiar. But certainly, to the inhabitants +of Otaheite, our eating parties, where the sexes at times vie with each +other in the management of knife and fork, and where it usually happens +that a woman presides, would seem as unaccountable and as indelicate, as +a certain social exhibition, already mentioned as occurring amongst +them, appeared to be to those who witnessed it. And perhaps it is less +easy, than at first sight may be imagined, to justify one more than the +other. Of actions equally natural, necessary, and proper, and at the +same time equally inoffensive to others, it is exceedingly perplexing to +discover good reasons for saying, that some are fitted for public notice +more than others. In the cases alluded to, a skilful controversialist +might be able to argue, why the Otaheitan practice ought to be esteemed +the more rational one. The writer has heard of a person, whose +refinement of taste and feeling was such, as made him quite disgusted +with any woman who eat in his presence; and perhaps the ladies in +general are somewhat apprehensive of their running the risk of being +depreciated by the appearance of a good appetite in public, and hence +their common practice of taking what is called a luncheon before going +to a feast, or social eating-party, and their being pleased with the +compliment given in the form of complaint, that they have very poor +stomachs! The Otaheitans, however, are by no means singular in dividing +the sexes during their repasts. On the contrary, there is ground to +think, that in Persia, and indeed throughout almost all the East, it is +usual for the women to eat apart from the men. See Harmer's Observations +on Scripture, 4th ed. vol. ii. p. 109. Capt. Carver, speaking of the +Naudowesses, a tribe of Americans, says, "The men and women feast apart; +and each sex invites by turns their companions to partake with them of +the food they happen to have." He tells us, however, that in their +domestic way of living, the sexes usually associate. Of the female +Charaibes, Mr Edwards, quoting Labat, says, that they were not allowed +the privilege of eating in presence of their husbands. And Rochon, in +his account of Madagascar, tells us something to the same purport of the +women of that island. It would be easy to multiply instances of the +custom which Hawkesworth thinks to be peculiar to the Otaheitans.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>After meals, and in the heat of the day, the middle-aged people of the +better sort generally sleep; they are indeed extremely indolent, and +sleeping and eating is almost all that they do. Those that are older are +less drowsy, and the boys and girls are kept awake by the natural +activity and sprightliness of their age. + +<p>Their amusements have occasionally been mentioned in my account of the +incidents that happened during our residence in this island, +particularly music, dancing, wrestling, and shooting with the bow; they +also sometimes vie with each other in throwing a lance. As shooting is +not at a mark, but for distance; throwing the lance is not for distance, +but at a mark: The weapon is about nine feet long, the mark is the hole +of a plantain, and the distance about twenty yards. + +<p>Their only musical instruments are flutes and drums; the flutes are +made of a hollow bamboo about a foot long, and, as has been observed +before, have only two stops, and consequently but four notes, out of +which they seem hitherto to have formed but one tune; to these stops +they apply the fore-finger of the left hand and the middle-finger of the +right. + +<p>The drum is made of a hollow block of wood, of a Cylindrical form, solid +at one end, and covered at the other with shark's skin: These they beat +not with sticks, but their hands; and they know how to tune two drums of +different notes into concord. They have also an expedient to bring the +flutes that play together into unison, which is to roll up a leaf so as +to slip over the end of the shortest, like our sliding tubes for +telescopes, which they move up or down till the purpose is answered, of +which they seem to judge by their ear with great nicety. + +<p>To these instruments they sing; and, as I have observed before, their +songs are often extempore: They call every two verses or couplet a song, +<i>Pehay</i>; they are generally, though not always, in rhyme; and when +pronounced by the natives, we could discover that they were metre. Mr +Banks took great pains to write down some of them which were made upon +our arrival, as nearly as he could express their sounds by combinations +of our letters; but when we read them, not having their accent, we could +scarcely make them either metre or rhyme. The reader will easily +perceive that they are of very different structure. + +<pre> + Tede pahai de parow-a + Ha maru no mina. + + E pahah Tayo malama tai ya + No Tabane tonatou whannomi ya. + + E Turai eattu terara patee whannua toai + Ino o maio Pretane to whennuaia no Tute. +</pre> + +<p>Of these verses our knowledge of the language is too imperfect to +attempt a translation. They frequently amuse themselves by singing such +couplets as these when they are alone, or with their families, +especially after it is dark; for though they need no fires, they are not +without the comfort of artificial light between sunset and bed-time. +Their candles are made of the kernels of a kind of oily nut, which they +stick one over another upon a skewer that is thrust through the middle +of them; the upper one being lighted, burns down to the second, at the +same time consuming that part of the skewer which goes through it; the +second taking fire burns in the same manner down to the third, and so of +the rest: Some of these candles will burn a considerable time, and they +give a very tolerable light. They do not often sit up above an hour +after it is dark; but when they have strangers who sleep in the house, +they generally keep a light burning all night, possibly as a check upon +such of the women as they wish not to honour them with their +favours.[13] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 13: The reader, in perusing the above account of the Otaheitan +evening-recreation, will readily recollect what Mr Park has so +affectingly told of the song of the African woman, of which he was made +the subject. Harmony, that "sovereign of the willing mind," as Mr Gray +denominates it, was both known and worshipped at this island, and that +too, by the very same rites which are so generally practised throughout +the world--regularity of measures, and the frequent recurrence of +similar sounds-- + +<pre> + She deigns to hear the savage youth repeat, + In loose numbers wildly sweet, + Their feather-cinctured chiefs and dusky loves. + Her track, where'er the Goddess roves, + Glory pursue, and generous shame, + The unconquerable mind, and freedom's holy flame. +</pre> +--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Of their itinerary concerts I need add nothing to what has been said +already; especially as I shall have occasion, more particularly, to +mention them when I relate our adventures upon another island. + +<p>In other countries, the girls and unmarried women are supposed to be +wholly ignorant of what others upon some occasions may appear to know; +and their conduct and conversation are consequently restrained within +narrower bounds, and kept at a more remote distance from whatever +relates to a connection with the other sex: But here, it is just +contrary. Among other diversions, there is a dance, called <i>Timorodee</i>, +which is performed by young girls, whenever eight or ten of them can be +collected together, consisting of motions and gestures beyond +imagination wanton, in the practice of which they are brought up from +their earliest childhood, accompanied by words, which, if it were +possible, would more explicitly convey the same ideas. In these dances +they keep time with an exactness which is scarcely excelled by the best +performers upon the stages of Europe. But the practice which is allowed +to the virgin, is prohibited to the woman from the moment that she has +put these hopeful lessons in practice, and realized the symbols of the +dance.[14] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 14: If it be considered that in Otaheite women are very early +marriageable, and that families are easily reared, one will not find +cause for censuring the impolicy, whatever is thought of the immodesty, +according to our notions, of the kind of dances here mentioned. It seems +reasonable enough, that the girls should be instructed in the only arts +requisite to obtain the affections of the other sex. Can it be said, +that the system of female education established in our own country, is +half so judicious, which prescribes a series of instructions in drawing +and music, velvet-painting, &c. to girls who, it is morally certain, +will never have the least occasion for them, and who, whatever +excellence they attain, totally abandon them on the day they happen to +change their names? Or shall we say, these things are like the gestures +of the Otaheitan damsels, merely symbols used as snares for the careless +beaux, who pretend to taste and fashion, and indicative of the indolence +and extravagance which are to succeed the marriage ceremony? The fact +is, and it is foolish to attempt concealing it, that women in general +have a nature so ductile as to be quite readily fashioned to any model +which is conceived agreeable to the other sex, and that they all have +sufficient sagacity to practise the arts in demand, till they have +accomplished the destiny of their constitution. On the supposition that +these arts are equally commensurate to their object, it may well be +asked, why some should be condemned and not others--or what authority +any people have to reproach the current allurements of another? In the +eyes of an impartial spectator, if we can suppose there really is one, +all of them must appear alike as to nature and origin, and to differ +only in respect of adaptation to the ends in view. He would consider +them all as signs, merely more or less expressive, and might be induced +to censure most strongly, if he censured at all, the people who, in +using them, affected the closest concealment of the purposes intended by +them. A philosopher ought never to lose sight of this maxim, that human +nature is essentially the same throughout the world, and that all the +desires and passions belonging to it have the same origin, and are +equally good or bad as to morality; from which it follows, that customs +and manners are to be judged of not so much by what is known or imagined +of the sources of them, as by what is evident or may be discovered of +their effects on society. On this principle, it is strictly +demonstrable, that in such a state of things as exists in our own +country at present, certain appearances and modes of dress adopted by +our women, are actually more injurious, and of course more criminal, +than the dancing gestures mentioned in the text. Any lady that can +expose her breasts to the gaze of <i>one</i> and <i>all</i> of our public +companies, has an undoubted right to be considered as possessing the +same feelings and propensities as the lewd girls of Otaheite; but then +she is not entitled to censure, however she may envy, their happier +exertions and success. She ought to know, that unless our taxes are +removed, and the bread-fruit is naturalized among us, it is impossible +for her to have so speedy a redemption from the estate of "solitary +blessedness;" and that as many of her elder sisters still feel the +necessity of practising patience in the same condition, it is very +incumbent on her to learn by times a little self-controul. Besides, she +ought, in charity to the other sex, to remember, that even the +"concealed magic" of her <i>manner</i>, as Mr Hume expresses it, and which he +says is easily explained, is abundantly efficacious without further +disclosure than common necessity requires.--E.]</blockquote> + +It cannot be supposed that, among these people, chastity is held in much +estimation. It might be expected that sisters and daughters would be +offered to strangers, either as a courtesy, or for reward; and that +breaches of conjugal fidelity, even in the wife, should not be otherwise +punished than by a few hard words, or perhaps a slight beating, as +indeed is the case: But there is a scale in dissolute sensuality, which +these people have ascended, wholly unknown to every other nation whose +manners have been recorded from the beginning of the world to the +present hour, and which no imagination could possibly conceive. + +<p>A very considerable number of the principal people of Otaheite, of both +sexes, have formed themselves into a society, in which every woman is +common to every man; thus securing a perpetual variety as often as their +inclination prompts them to seek it, which is so frequent, that the same +man and woman seldom cohabit together more than two or three days. + +<p>These societies are distinguished by the name of <i>Arreoy</i>; and the +members have meetings, at which no other is present, where the men amuse +themselves by wrestling, and the women, notwithstanding their occasional +connection with different men, dance the Timorodee in all its latitude, +as an incitement to desires, which, it is said, are frequently gratified +upon the spot. This, however, is comparatively nothing. If any of the +women happen to be with child, which in this manner of life happens less +frequently than if they were to cohabit only with one man, the poor +infant is smothered the moment it is born, that it may be no incumbrance +to the father, nor interrupt the mother in the pleasures of her +diabolical prostitution. It sometimes indeed happens, that the passion +which prompts a woman to enter into this society, is surmounted when she +becomes a mother, by that instinctive affection which Nature has given +to all creatures for the preservation of their offspring; but even in +this case, she is not permitted to spare the life of her infant, except +she can find a man who will patronise it as his child: If this can be +done, the murder is prevented; but both the man and woman, being deemed +by this act to have appropriated each other, are ejected from the +community, and forfeit all claim to the privileges and pleasures of the +Arreoy for the future; the woman from that time being distinguished by +the term <i>Whannownow</i>, "bearer of children," which is here a term of +reproach; though none can be more honourable in the estimation of wisdom +and humanity, of right reason, and every passion that distinguishes the +man from the brute. + +<p>It is not fit that a practice so horrid and so strange should be +imputed to human beings upon slight evidence, but I have such as +abundantly justifies me in the account I have given. The people +themselves are so far from concealing their connection with such a +society as a disgrace, that they boast of it as a privilege; and both +myself and Mr Banks, when particular persons have been pointed out to us +as members of the Arreoy, have questioned them about it, and received +the account that has been here given from their own lips. They have +acknowledged, that they had long been of this accursed society, that +they belonged to it at that time, and that several of their children had +been put to death.[15] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 15: It seems, from Mr Turnbull's account, that these accursed +arreoys were rather on the increase,--a circumstance, which, considering +that infanticide formed a part, an essential part indeed, of their +policy, may well explain the rapidity in the diminution of the people +before noticed.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>But I must not conclude my account of the domestic life of these people +without mentioning their personal cleanliness. If that which lessens the +good of life and increases the evil is vice, surely cleanliness is a +virtue: The want of it tends to destroy both beauty and health, and +mingles disgust, with our best pleasures. The natives of Otaheite, both +men and women, constantly wash their whole bodies in running water three +times every day; once as soon as they rise in the morning, once at noon, +and again before they sleep at night, whether the sea or river is near +them or at a distance. I have already observed, that they wash not only +the mouth, but the hands at their meals, almost between every morsel; +and their clothes, as well as their persons, are kept without spot or +stain; so that in a large company of these people, nothing is suffered +but heat, which, perhaps, is more than can be said of the politest +assembly in Europe.[16] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 16: Here Dr H. seems to have forgotten altogether the +substitutes which modern Europeans employ for cleanliness, to render +polite assemblies tolerable--musk, bergamot, lavender, &c. &c. articles, +which, besides their value in saving the precious time of our fine +ladies, who could not easily spare a quarter of an hour a day from their +important occupations, for the Otaheitan practice of bathing, are of +vast utility to the state, by affording suitable exercise to the talents +of the vast tribe of perfumers and beautifiers of every description, +who, it is probable, would otherwise become mere drones in the +community. But what would these Otaheitans conceive of the health and +comfort and appearance and odour of the great mass of British ladies, +who, unless banished to a watering place, no more think of being +<i>generally</i> washed, than of being curried with a currying-comb, or +undergoing the operation of tattowing? The powers of nature are +marvellous indeed, which can support their lives for years, under all +the fifth and exuviæ, accumulated with such idolatrous fondness.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION XVIII. + +<p><i>Of the Manufactures, Boats, and Navigations of Otaheite.</i> + +<p>If necessity is the mother of invention, it cannot be supposed to have +been much exerted where the liberality of Nature has rendered the +diligence of Art almost superfluous; yet there are many instances both +of ingenuity and labour among these people, which, considering the want +of metal for tools, do honour to both. + +<p>Their principal manufacture is their cloth, in the making and dyeing of +which I think there are some particulars which may instruct even the +artificers of Great Britain, and for that reason my description will be +more minute. + +<p>Their cloth is of three kinds; and it is made of the bark of three +different trees, the Chinese paper mulberry, the bread-fruit tree, and +the tree which resembles the wild fig-tree of the West Indies. + +<p>The finest and whitest is made of the paper mulberry, <i>Aouta</i>; this is +worn chiefly by the principal people, and when it is dyed red takes a +better colour. A second sort, inferior in whiteness and softness, is +made of the bread-fruit tree, <i>Ooroo</i>, and worn chiefly by the interior +people; and a third of the tree that resembles the fig, which is coarse +and harsh, and of the colour of the darkest brown paper: This, though it +is less pleasing both to the eye and to the touch, is the most valuable, +because it resists water, which the other two sorts will not. Of this, +which is the most rare as well as the most useful, the greater part is +perfumed, and worn by the chiefs as a morning dress. + +<p>All these trees are propagated with great care, particularly the +mulberry, which covers the largest part of the cultivated land, and is +not fit for use after two or three years growth, when it is about six or +eight feet high, and somewhat thicker than a man's thumb; its excellence +is to be thin, straight, tall, and without branches: The lower leaves, +therefore, are carefully plucked off, with their germs, as often as +there is any appearance of their producing a branch. + +<p>But though the cloth made of these three trees is different, it is all +manufactured in the same manner; I shall, therefore, describe the +process only in the fine sort, that is made of the mulberry.[17] When +the trees are of a proper size, they are drawn up, and stripped of their +branches, after which the roots and tops are cut off; the bark of these +rods being then slit up longitudinally is easily drawn off, and, when a +proper quantity has been procured, it is carried down to some running +water, in which it is deposited to soak, and secured from floating away +by heavy stones: When it is supposed to be sufficiently softened, the +women servants go down to the brook, and stripping themselves, sit down +in the water, to separate the inner bark from the green bark on the +outside; to do this they place the under side upon a flat smooth board, +and with the shell which our dealers call Tyger's tongue, <i>Tellina +gargadia</i>, scrape it very carefully, dipping it continually in the water +till nothing remains but the fine fibres of the inner coat. Being thus +prepared in the afternoon, they are spread out upon plantain leaves in +the evening; and in this part of the work there appears to be some +difficulty, as the mistress of the family always superintends the doing +of it: They are placed in lengths of about eleven or twelve yards, one +by the side of another, till they are about a foot broad, and two or +three layers are also laid one upon the other: Care is taken that the +cloth shall be in all parts of an equal thickness, so that if the bark +happens to be thinner in any particular part of one layer than the rest, +a piece that is somewhat thicker is picked out to be laid over it in the +next. In this state it remains till the morning, when great part of the +water which it contained when it was laid out, is either drained off or +evaporated, and the several fibres adhere together, so as that the whole +may be raised from the ground in one piece. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 17: The reader will find additional information on this +subject, and on several others here treated, in some of the subsequent +accounts; from which, however, it seemed unadvisable to make quotations +at present. It is scarcely necessary to add, that the curious art of +dyeing, which the Otaheitans seem to practise with no small ingenuity, +has been much vestigated on philosophical principles since the date of +this publication. Modern chemistry has a right to boast of her +acquisitions in so very important a point of domestic science; but it +would be invidious and improper to specify them in this place.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>It is then taken away, and laid upon the smooth side of a long piece of +wood, prepared for the purpose, and beaten, by the women servants, with +instruments about a foot long and three inches thick, made of a hard +wood which they call <i>Etoa</i>. The shape of this instrument is not unlike +a square razor strop, only that the handle is longer, and each of its +four sides or faces is marked, lengthways, with small grooves, or +furrows, of different degrees of fineness; those on one side being of a +width and depth sufficient to receive a small packthread, and the others +finer in a regular gradation, so that the last are not more than equal +to sewing silk. + +<p>They beat it first with the coarsest side of this mallet, keeping time +like our smiths; it spreads very fast under the strokes, chiefly however +in the breadth, and the grooves in the mallet mark it with the +appearance of threads; it is successively beaten with the other sides, +last with the finest, and is then fit for use. Sometimes, however, it is +made still thinner, by beating it with the finest side of the mallet, +after it has been several times doubled: It is then called <i>Hoboo</i>, and +is almost as thin as a muslin; It becomes very white by being bleached +in the air, but is made still whiter and softer by being washed and +beaten again after it has been worn. + +<p>Of this cloth there are several sorts, of different degrees of fineness, +in proportion as it is more or less beaten without being doubled: The +other cloth also differs in proportion as it is beaten; but they differ +from each other in consequence of the different materials of which they +are made. The bark of the bread-fruit is not taken till the trees are +considerably longer and thicker than those of the fig; the process +afterwards is the same. + +<p>When cloth is to be washed after it has been worn, it is taken down to +the brook, and left to soak, being kept fast to the bottom, as at first, +by a stone; it is then gently wrung or squeezed; and sometimes several +pieces of it are laid one upon another, and beaten together with the +coarsest side of the mallet, and they are then equal in thickness to +broad-cloth, and much more soft and agreeable to the touch, after they +have been a little while in use, though when they come immediately from +the mallet, they feel as if they had been starched. This cloth sometimes +breaks in the beating, but is easily repaired by pasting on a patch with +a gluten that is prepared from the root of the <i>Pea</i>, which is done so +nicely that it cannot be discovered. The women also employ themselves in +removing blemishes of every kind, as our ladies do in needle-work or +knotting; sometimes when their work is intended to be very fine, they +will paste an entire covering of hoboo over the whole. The principal +excellencies of this cloth are its coolness and softness; and its +imperfections, its being pervious to water like paper, and almost as +easily torn.[18] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 18: The missionary account tells us, that the noble Women are +the principal cloth-makers. Among these people, it seems, that it is far +from being thought disgraceful, for the higher orders to engage in +domestic concerns and useful manufactures, "nor is it the least +disparagement for a chief to be found in the midst of his workmen +labouring with his own hands; but it would be reckoned a great disgrace +not to shew superior skill." Like the patriarchs of old, and the heroes +of Homer, these chiefs assist in the preparation of victuals for the +entertainment of their guests.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The colours with which they dye this cloth are principally red and +yellow. The red is exceedingly beautiful, and I may venture to say a +brighter and more delicate colour than any we have in Europe; that which +approaches nearest is our full scarlet, and the best imitation which Mr +Banks's natural history painter could produce, was by a mixture of +vermilion and carmine. The yellow is also a bright colour, but we have +many as good. + +<p>The red colour is produced by the mixture of the juices of two +vegetables, neither of which separately has the least tendency to that +hue. One is a species of fig called here <i>Matte</i>, and the other the +<i>Cordia Sebestina</i>, or <i>Etou</i>; of the fig the fruit is used, and of the +<i>Cordia</i> the leaves. + +<p>The fruit of the fig is about as big as a rounceval pea, or very small +gooseberry; and each of them, upon breaking off the stalk very close, +produces one drop of a milky liquor, resembling the juice of our figs, +of which the tree is indeed a species. This liquor the women collect +into a small quantity of cocoa-nut water: To prepare a gill of cocoa-nut +water will require between three and four quarts of these little figs. +When a sufficient quantity is prepared, the leaves of the Etou are well +wetted in it, and then laid upon a plantain leaf, where they are turned +about till they become more and more flaccid, and then they are gently +squeezed, gradually increasing the pressure, but so as not to break +them; as the flaccidity increases, and they become spungy, they are +supplied with more of the liquor; in about five minutes the colour +begins to appear upon the veins of the leaves, and in about ten or a +little more, they are perfectly saturated with it: They are then +squeezed, with as much force as can be applied, and the liquor strained +at the same time that it is expressed. + +<p>For this purpose, the boys prepare a large quantity of the Moo, by +drawing it between their teeth, or two little sticks, till it is freed +from the green bark and the branny substance that lies under it, and a +thin web of the fibres only remains; in this the leaves of the Etou are +enveloped, and through these the juice which they contain is strained as +it is forced out. As the leaves are not succulent, little more juice is +pressed out of them than they have imbibed: When they have been once +emptied, they are filled again, and again pressed, till the quality +which tinctures the liquor as it passes through them is exhausted; they +are then thrown away; but the moo, being deeply stained with the colour, +is preserved, as a brush to lay the dye upon the cloth. + +<p>The expressed liquor is always received into small cups made of the +plantain leaf, whether from a notion that it has any quality favourable +to the colour, or from the facility with which it is procured, and the +convenience of small vessels to distribute it among the artificers, I do +not know. + +<p>Of the thin cloth they seldom dye more than the edges, but the thick +cloth is coloured through the whole surface; the liquor is indeed used +rather as a pigment than a dye, for a coat of it is laid upon one side +only, with the fibres of the moo; and though I have seen of the thin +cloth that has appeared to have been soaked in the liquor, the colour +has not had the same richness and lustre, as when it has been applied in +the other manner. + +<p>Though the leaf of the etou is generally used in this process, and +probably produces the finest colour, yet the juice of the figs will +produce a red by a mixture with the species of tournefortia, which they +call <i>taheinno</i>, the <i>pohuc</i>, the <i>eurhe</i>, or <i>convolvulus +brasiliensis</i>, and a species of solanum, called <i>ebooa</i>; from the use of +these different plants, or from different proportions of the materials, +many varieties are observable in the colours of their cloth, some of +which are conspicuously superior to others. + +<p>The beauty, however, of the best, is not permanent; but it is probable +that some method might be found to fix it, if proper experiments were +made, and perhaps to search for latent qualities, which may be brought +out by the mixture of one vegetable juice with another, would not be an +unprofitable employment: Our present most valuable dyes afford +sufficient encouragement to the attempt; for, by the mere inspection of +indigo, woad, dyer's weed, and most of the leaves which are used for the +like purposes, the colours which they yield could never be discovered. +Of this Indian red I shall only add, that the women who have been +employed in preparing or using it, carefully preserve the colour upon +their fingers and nails, where it appears in its utmost beauty, as a +great ornament. + +<p>The yellow is made of the bark of the root of the <i>morinda citrifolia</i>, +called <i>nono</i>, by scraping and infusing it in water; after standing some +time, the water is strained and used as a dye, the cloth being dipped +into it. The morinda, of which this is a species, seems to be a good +subject for examination with a view to dyeing. Brown, in his History of +Jamaica, mentions three species of it, which he says are used to dye +brown; and Rumphius says of the <i>bancuda angustifolia</i>, which is nearly +allied to our nono, that it is used by the inhabitants of the East +Indian islands as a fixing drug for red colours, with which it +particularly agrees. + +<p>The inhabitants of this island also dye yellow with the fruit of the +tamanu; but how the colour is extracted, we had no opportunity to +discover. They have also a preparation with which they dye brown and +black; but these colours are so indifferent, that the method of +preparing them did not excite our curiosity. + +<p>Another considerable manufacture is matting of various kinds; some of +which is finer, and better, in every respect, than any we have in +Europe; the coarser sort serves them to sleep upon, and the finer to +wear in wet weather. With the fine, of which there are also two sorts, +much pains is taken, especially with that made of the bark of the +poerou, the <i>hibiscus tiliaceus</i> of Linnæus, some of which is as fine as +a coarse cloth: The other sort, which is still more beautiful, they call +vanne; it is white, glossy, and shining, and is made of the leaves of +their <i>wharrou</i>, a species of the <i>pandanus</i>, of which we had no +opportunity to see either the flowers or fruit: They have other matts, +or, as they call them, <i>moeas</i>, to sit or to sleep upon, which are +formed of a great variety of rushes and grass, and which they make, as +they do every thing else that is plaited, with amazing facility and +dispatch. + +<p>They are also very dexterous in making basket and wicker-work; their +baskets are of a thousand different patterns, many of them exceedingly +neat; and the making them is an art that every one practises, both men +and women; they make occasional baskets and panniers of the cocoa-nut +leaf in a few minutes, and the women who visited us early in a morning +used to send, as soon as the sun was high, for a few of the leaves, of +which they made little bonnets to shade their faces, at so small an +expence of time and trouble, that, when the sun was again low in the +evening, they used to throw them away. These bonnets, however, did not +cover the head, but consisted only of a band that went round it, and a +shade that projected from the forehead. + +<p>Of the bark of the poerou they make ropes and lines, from the thickness +of an inch to the size of a small packthread: With these they make nets +for fishing. Of the fibres of the cocoa-nut they make thread for +fastening together the several parts of their canoes and belts, either +round or flat, twisted or plaited; and of the bark of the <i>erowa</i>, a +kind of nettle which grows in the mountains, and is therefore rather +scarce, they make the best fishing lines in the world; with these they +hold the strongest and most active fish, such as bonetas and albicores, +which would snap our strongest silk lines in a minute, though they are +twice as thick. + +<p>They make also a kind of seine, of a coarse broad grass, the blades of +which are like flags; these they twist and tie together in a loose +manner, till the net, which is about as wide as a large sack, is from +sixty to eighty fathoms long; this they haul in shoal smooth water, and +its own weight keeps it so close to the ground, that scarcely a single +fish can escape. + +<p>In every expedient, indeed, for taking fish, they are exceedingly +ingenious; they make harpoons of cane, and point them with hard wood, +which, in their hands, strike fish more effectually than those which are +headed with iron can do in ours, setting aside the advantage of ours +being fastened to a line, so that the fish is secured if the hook takes +place, though it does not mortally wound him. + +<p>Of fish-hooks they have two sorts, admirably adapted in their +construction as well to the purpose they are to answer, as to the +materials of which they are made. One of these, which they call <i>witlee +witlee</i>, is used for towing. The shank is made of mother-of-pearl, the +most glossy that can be got; the inside, which is naturally the +brightest, is put behind. To these hooks a tuft of white dog's or hog's +hair is fixed, so as somewhat to resemble the tail of a fish; these +implements, therefore, are both hook and bait, and are used with a rod +of bamboo, and line of <i>erowa</i>. The fisher, to secure his success, +watches the flight of the birds which constantly attend the bonetas +when they swim in shoals, by which he directs his canoe, and when he has +the advantage of these guides, he seldom returns without a prize. + +<p>The other kind of hook is also made of mother-of-pearl, or some other +hard shell: They cannot make them bearded like our hooks; but, to effect +the same purpose, they make the point turn inwards. These are made of +all sizes, and used to catch various kinds of fish with great success. +The manner of making them is very simple, and every fisherman is his own +artificer: The shell is first cut into square pieces by the edge of +another shell, and wrought into a form corresponding with the outline of +the hook, by pieces of coral, which are sufficiently rough to perform +the office of a file; a hole is then bored in the middle; the drill +being no other than the first stone they pick up that has a sharp +corner; this they fix into the end of a piece of bamboo, and turn it +between the hands like a chocolate-mill; when the shell is perforated, +and the hole sufficiently wide, a small file of coral is introduced, by +the application of which the hook is in a short time completed, few +costing the artificer more time than a quarter of an hour. + +<p>Of their masonry, carving, and architecture, the reader has already +formed some idea from the account that has been given of the morais, or +repositories of the dead: The other most important article of building +and carving is their boats; and, perhaps, to fabricate one of their +principal vessels with their tools, is as great a work as to build a +British man-of-war with ours. + +<p>They have an adze of stone; a chissel, or gouge, of bone, generally that +of a man's arm between the wrist and elbow; a rasp of coral; and the +skin of a sting-ray, with coral sand, as a file or polisher. + +<p>This is a complete catalogue of their tools, and with these they build +houses, construct canoes, hew stone, and fell, cleave, carve, and polish +timber. + +<p>The stone which makes the blade of their adzes is a kind of basaltes, of +a blackish or grey colour, not very hard, but of considerable toughness: +They are formed of different sizes; some, that are intended for felling, +weigh from six to eight pounds; others, that are used for carving, not +more than so many ounces; but it is necessary to sharpen both almost +every minute; for which purpose, a stone and a cocoa-nut shell full of +water are always at hand. + +<p>Their greatest exploit, to which these tools are less equal than to any +other, is felling a tree: This requires many hands, and the constant +labour of several days. When it is down, they split it, with the grain, +into planks from three to four inches thick, the whole length and +breadth of the tree, many of which are eight feet in the girt, and forty +to the branches, and nearly of the same thickness throughout. The tree +generally used, is, in their language, called <i>avie</i>, the stem of which +is tall and straight; though some of the smaller boats are made of the +bread-fruit tree, which is a light spongy wood, and easily wrought. They +smooth the plank very expeditiously and dexterously with their adzes, +and can take off a thin coat from a whole plank without missing a +stroke. As they have not the art of warping a plank, every part of the +canoe, whether hollow or flat, is shaped by hand.[19] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 19: One likes to see the exercise of human ingenuity even on +trifles. It flatters the consciousness of one's own powers, and affords, +too, the ground-work of a comparison nowise disadvantageous to what one +believes of his own capabilities. Man has been defined by a certain +writer, an animal that uses instruments for the accomplishment of his +purposes. But the definition is faulty in one important point; it does +not exclude some beings which are not of the species. It is perhaps +impossible to furnish an adequate definition of his nature within the +compass of a single logical proposition. And what matter? Every man in +his senses knows what man is, and can hardly ever be necessitated to +clothe his conception of him, in language metaphysically +unexceptionable. But if any trait be more characteristic than another, +that of invention may safely be asserted to have the pre-eminence. Man, +in effect, evinces the superiority of his nature over all other animals, +by a faculty which he seems exclusively to enjoy, in common with his +Maker, of creating systems, plans, and objects, by the exercise of an +understanding and will adapted to certain ends fore-seen and +predetermined. No tribes of mankind are totally destitute of this +intellectual agency, which is proof, that none are without the merciful +visitations of that great beneficent Being from whom the universe has +its existence. A canoe, a house, a basket, indicates mind. Mind, by the +very constitution of our nature, indicates power and authority. Reason, +indeed, may dispute the necessity or the propriety of such connections +in our thoughts and feelings, but reason cannot possibly set them aside, +or eradicate them from the human breast, though aided by all that +dislike and fear of the solemn truth which the conviction of guilt or +demerit never fails to produce. These Otaheitans, then, are evidences to +themselves of the existence of a power and wisdom superior to their own, +to which they are consciously accountable; and they are without excuse, +if, knowing this, they do not worship God as they ought. It may amuse, +and perhaps instruct the reader, which is the reason for introducing +this note, to enquire how far the inventions of the Otaheitans, as of +all other people, made any way necessary or desirable by the +circumstance of their climate and situation, influence them in their +notions on the subject of their national religions. He will find that +amongst them, as amongst others, the popular religion is founded, not on +the exercise of reason contemplating the works of nature and the +dispensations of Providence, but on principles intimately connected with +man's physical wants, and modified by the peculiarities of ingenuity, +which the artificial supply of those wants occasions; and perhaps he +will make out one remarkable conclusion from the survey of them compared +with others--that where these arts of ingenuity are frequent, and at the +same time applied to very perishable subjects, there the objects of +worship and the kind of religious service, are of a refined nature, +allowing little or nothing of the grossness of <i>material</i> idolatry; and +that, on the contrary, when they are few, but at the same time exercised +on very durable substances, then the greatest tendency exists to the +worship of the mere works of man's hands. Sagacious and clever people, +in other words, have cunningly devised fables for their creeds; the +clumsy-headed and the idle fall down before stocks and stones, as if +there were no such things as memory or imagination or understanding in +the world. It follows, that to extirpate gross idolatry, you must +multiply inventions, and encourage ingenuity--the first operation, it +may be confidently said, to which missionaries among the heathens should +direct their exertions. It is no less certain, that to destroy spiritual +idolatry, nothing short of the mighty power of God himself, implanting a +new principle allied to his own nature, is available. When missionaries +obtain the management and dispensation of this new principle, then, and +only then, they will succeed in making men <i>worshippers in spirit and in +truth</i>. But the propriety of their labours is to be evinced on other +grounds, than the success attending them.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The canoes, or boats, which are used by the inhabitants of this and the +neighbouring islands, may be divided into two general classes; one of +which they call <i>Ivahahs</i>, the other <i>Pahies</i>. + +<p>The Ivahah is used for short excursions to sea, and is wall-sided and +flat-bottomed; the Pahie for longer voyages, and is bow-sided and +sharp-bottomed. The Ivahahs are all of the same figure, but of different +sizes, and used for different purposes: Their length is from seventy-two +feet to ten, but the breadth is by no means in proportion; for those of +ten feet are about a foot wide, and those of more than seventy are +scarcely two. There is the fighting Ivahah; the fishing Ivahah, and the +travelling Ivahah; for some of these go from one island to another. The +fighting Ivahah is by far the longest, and the head and stern are +considerably raised above the body, in a semicircular form; particularly +the stern, which is sometimes seventeen or eighteen feet high, though +the boat itself is scarcely three. These never go to sea single; but are +fastened together, side by side, at the distance of about three feet, by +strong poles of wood, which are laid across them and lashed to the +gunwales. Upon these, in the fore-part, a stage or platform is raised, +about ten or twelve feet long, and somewhat wider than the boats, which +is supported by pillars about six feet high: Upon this stage stand the +fighting men, whose missile weapons are slings and spears; for, among +other singularities in the manners of these people, their bows and +arrows are used only for diversion, as we throw quoits: Below these +stages sit the rowers, who receive from them those that are wounded, and +furnish fresh men to ascend in their room. Some of these have a platform +of bamboos or other light wood, through their whole length, and +considerably broader, by means of which they will carry a great number +of men; but we saw only one fitted in this manner. + +<p>The fishing Ivahahs vary in length from about forty feet to the smallest +size, which is about ten; all that are of the length of twenty-five feet +and upwards, of whatever sort, occasionally carry sail. The travelling +Ivahah is always double, and furnished with a small neat house about +five or six feet broad, and six or seven feet long, which is fastened +upon the fore-part for the convenience of the principal people, who sit +in them by day, and sleep in them at night. The fishing Ivahahs are +sometimes joined together, and have a house on board; but this is not +common. + +<p>Those which are shorter than five-and-twenty feet, seldom or never carry +sail; and, though the stern rises about four or five feet, have a flat +head, and a board that projects forward about four feet. + +<p>The Pahie is also of different sizes, from sixty to thirty feet long; +but, like the Ivahah, is very narrow. One that I measured was fifty-one +feet long, and only one foot and a half wide at the top. In the widest +part, it was about three feet; and this is the general proportion. It +does not, however, widen by a gradual swell; but the sides being +straight, and parallel, for a little way below the gunwale, it swells +abruptly, and draws to a ridge at the bottom; so that a transverse +section of it has somewhat the appearance of the mark upon cards called +a Spade, the whole being much wider in proportion to its length. These, +like the largest Ivahahs, are used for fighting; but principally for +long voyages. The fighting Pahie, which is the largest, is fitted with +the stage or platform, which is proportionably larger than those of the +Ivahah, as their form enables them to sustain a much greater weight. +Those that are used for sailing are generally double; and the middle +size are said to be the best sea-boats. They are sometimes out a month +together, going from island to island; and sometimes, as we were +credibly informed, they are a fortnight or twenty days at sea, and could +keep it longer if they had more stowage for provisions, and conveniences +to hold fresh water. + +<p>When any of these boats carry sail single, they make use of a log of +wood which is fastened to the end of two poles that lie cross the +vessel, and project from six to ten feet, according to the size of the +vessel, beyond its side, somewhat like what is used by the flying proa +of the Ladrone Islands, and called in the account of Lord Anson's +Voyage, an Outrigger. To this outrigger the shrouds are fastened, and it +is essentially necessary in trimming the boat when it blows fresh.[20] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 20: For a short but sufficient notice of what is called an +Outrigger, see our account of Anson's Voyage, in vol. xi. p. 464. The +reader will find a drawing representing it in the translation of the +Account of Bougainville's Voyage.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Some of them have one mast, and some two; they are made of a single +stick, and when the length of the canoe is thirty feet, that of the mast +is somewhat less than five-and-twenty; it is fixed to a frame that is +above the canoe, and receives a sail of matting about one-third longer +than itself: The sail is pointed at the top, square at the bottom, and +curved at the side; somewhat resembling what we call a +shoulder-of-mutton sail, and used for boats belonging to men-of-war: It +is placed in a frame of wood, which surrounds it on every side, and has +no contrivance either for reefing or furling; so that, if either should +become necessary, it must be cut away, which, however, in these equal +climates, can seldom happen. At the top of the mast are fastened +ornaments of feathers, which are placed inclining obliquely forwards. + +<p>The oars or paddles that are used with these boats, have a long handle +and a flat blade, not unlike a baker's peel. Of these every person in +the boat has one, except those that sit under the awning; and they push +her forward with them at a good rate. These boats, however, admit so +much water at the seams, that one person at least is continually +employed in throwing it out. The only thing in which, they excel is +landing, and putting off from the shore in a surf: By their great length +and high sterns they land dry, when our boats could scarcely land at +all; and have the same advantages in putting off by the height of the +head. The Ivahahs are the only boats that are used by the inhabitants of +Otaheite; but we saw several Pahies that came from other islands. Of one +of these I shall give the exact dimensions from a careful admeasurement, +and then particularly describe the manner in which they are built. + +<pre> + Feet. Inches. + + Extreme length from stem to stern, not reckoning + the bending up of either 51 0 + Breadth in the clear of the top forward 1 3 + Breadth in the midships 1 6 + Breadth aft 1 3 + In the bilge forward 2 8 + In the midships 2 11 + Aft 2 9 + Depth in the midships 8 4 + Height from the ground on which she stood 3 6 + Height of her head from the ground, without the + figure 4 4 + Height of the figure 0 11 + Height of the stern from the ground 8 9 + Height of the figure 2 0 +</pre> + +<p>The first stage, or keel, is made of a tree hollowed out like a trough; +for which the longest trees are chosen that can be got, so that there +are never more than three in the whole length: The next stage is formed +of straight plank, about four feet long, fifteen inches broad, and two +inches thick: The third stage, is, like the bottom, made of trunks, +hollowed into its bilging form; the last is also cut out of trunks, so +that the moulding is of one piece with the upright. To form these parts +separately, without saw, plane, chissel, or any other iron tool, may +well be thought no easy task; but the great difficulty is to join them +together. + +<p>When all the parts are prepared, the keel is laid upon blocks, and the +planks being supported by stanchions, are sewed or clamped together with +strong thongs of plaiting, which are passed several times through holes +that are bored with a gouge or auger of bone, that has been described +already; and the nicety with which this is done, may be inferred from +their being sufficiently water-tight for use without caulking. As the +platting soon rots in the water, it is renewed at least once a-year; in +order to which, the vessel is taken entirely to pieces. The head and +stern are rude with respect to the design; but very neatly finished, and +polished to the highest degree. + +<p>These Pahies are kept with great care, in a kind of house built on +purpose for their reception; the houses are formed of poles set upright +in the ground, the tops of which are drawn towards each other, and +fastened together with their strongest cord, so as to form a kind of +Gothic arch, which is completely thatched quite to the ground, being +open only at the ends; they are sometimes fifty or sixty paces long. + +<p>As connected with the navigation of these people, I shall mention their +wonderful sagacity in foretelling the weather, at least the quarter from +which the wind shall blow at a future time; they have several ways of +doing this, of which however I know but one. "They say, that the +Milky-way, is always curved laterally; but sometimes, in one direction, +and sometimes in another: And that this curvature is the effect of its +being already acted upon by the wind, and its hollow part therefore +towards it; so that, if the same curvature continues a night, a +corresponding wind certainly blows the next day. Of their rules, I shall +not pretend to judge; but I know that, by whatever means, they can +predict the weather, at least the wind, with much greater certainty than +we can. [21] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 21: It is injudicious and unphilosophical to slight the +observations of the vulgar on subjects level to their capacities and +habits of thought. But, on the other hand, it is almost always necessary +to distrust their reasonings and theories about them. This is one of the +cases in which both cautions are to be practised. The common people in +all countries are more accustomed to make remarks upon the weather, than +those who are given to literary or scientific pursuits. It would be +worth some person's while to make a collection of their observations on +the subject. For a man of science, learning, and ingenuity, no one +perhaps has paid more attention to the signs of the weather than Mr +Jones,--<i>See his Physiological Disquisitions, published at London</i> +1781.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In their longer voyages, they steer by the sun in the day, and in the +night by the stars; all of which they distinguish separately by names, +and know in what part of the heavens they will appear in any of the +months during which they are visible in their horizon; they also know +the time of their annual appearing and disappearing with more precision +than will easily be believed by an European astronomer.[22] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 22: Mr Bryan Edwards has been at pains to compare together the +Otaheitans and the original inhabitants of some of the West India +islands. On the whole, he gives the preference to the latter. But he is +far indeed from being unjust to the former, in the description he has +given of them. A few quotations may be made from his work, to the +edification of the reader, and it is conceived, that though some of them +seem to respect subjects discussed in the next chapter, this is the best +place for giving them. "Having mentioned the natives of the South-Sea +Islands, I cannot but advert to the wonderful similarity observable, in +many respects, between our ill-fated West Indians and that placid +people. The same frank and affectionate temper, the same cheerful +simplicity, gentleness, and candour;--a behaviour, devoid of meanness +and treachery, of cruelty and revenge, are apparent in the character of +both; and although placed at so great a distance from each other, and +divided by the intervention of the American continent, we may trace a +resemblance even in many of their customs and institutions; their +national songs and dances, their domestic economy, their system of +government, and their funeral ceremonies. I pretend not, however, to +affirm that this resemblance is so exact as to create the presumption of +common origin. The affinity perceivable in the dispositions and virtues +of these widely-separated tribes, arose probably from a similarity in +their circumstances and situation, operating on the general principles +of human nature. Placed alike in a happy medium; between savage life, +properly so called, and the refinements of polished society, they are +found equally exempt from the sordid corporeal distresses and sanguinary +passions of the former state, and from the artificial necessities, the +restraints, and solicitudes of the latter."--"In those inventions and +arts, which, varying the enjoyments, add considerably to the value of +life, I believe the Otaheitans were in general somewhat behind our +islanders; in agriculture they were particularly so. The great support +of the inferior territories of the South-sea consists of the bread-fruit +and the plantain; both which flourish there spontaneously; and although +the inhabitants have likewise plantations of yams, and other excellent +roots, yet the cultivation of none of them appears to be as extensive as +was that of the maize in the West Indies, or to display equal skill with +the preparation of the Cassavi-bread from the maniock. The West Indians, +notwithstanding that they possessed almost every variety of vegetable +nature which grew in the countries I have mentioned, the bread-fruit +excepted, raised also both the maize and the maniock in great abundance; +and they had acquired the skill of watering their lands from distant +rivers, in time of drought. It may likewise be observed, that although +the Otaheitans possess the shrub which produces cotton, they neither +improve it by culture, nor have the knowledge of converting its wool +into cloth, but content themselves with a far meaner production as a +substitute. Our islanders had not only the skill of making excellent +cloth from their cotton, but they practised also the arts of dying it, +with a variety of colours, some of them of the utmost brilliancy and +beauty. In the science of shipbuilding (if the construction of such +vessels as either people used may be distinguished with that +appellation) the superiority is on the side of the Otaheitans; yet the +<i>piraguas</i> of the West Indians were fully sufficient for the navigation +they were employed in, and indeed were by no means contemptible +sea-boats."--"On the other hand, our islanders far surpassed the people +of Otaheite, in the elegance and variety of their domestic utensils and +furniture; their earthen-ware, curiously woven beds, and implements of +husbandry." For the particulars of the comparison here entered into, the +reader who is interested will have recourse to the work itself, in +which, besides, he will find several circumstances related of another +people, the Charaibes, which much resemble what he has now read in the +account of the Otaheitans. This note is already too large to admit of +their being specified in any satisfactory manner, and it was thought +improper to be continually calling off the attention of the reader, +from the text, to smaller notes at the individual instances.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION XIX. + +<p><i>Of the Division of Time in Otaheile; Numeration, Computation of +Distance, Language, Diseases, Disposal of the Dead, Religion, War, +Weapons, and Government; with some general Observations for the Use of +future Navigators</i>. + +<p>We were not able to acquire a perfect idea of their method of dividing +time; but observed, that in speaking of it, either past or to come, they +never used any term but <i>Malama</i>, which signifies Moon. Of these moons +they count thirteen, and then begin again; which is a demonstration that +they have a notion of the solar year: But how they compute their months, +so that thirteen of them shall be commensurate with the year, we could +not discover; for they say that each month has twenty-nine days, +including one in which the moon is not visible. They have names for them +separately, and have frequently told us the fruits that would be in +season, and the weather that would prevail, in each of them; and they +have indeed a name for them collectively, though they use it only when +they speak of the mysteries of their religion. + +<p>Every day is subdivided into twelve parts, each of two hours, of which +six belong to the day, and six to the night. At these divisions they +guess pretty nearly by the height of the sun while he is above the +horizon; but there are few of them that can guess at them, when he is +below it, by the stars.[23] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 23: It is distinctly proved by President Goguet, that the +course of the moon, and her various appearances, served mankind in +general, in the first ages, for the measurement of time. What is here +said of the Otaheitans confirms his observations. We are told too, in +another work, that the natives of the Pellew Islands reckon their time +by months, and not by years; in which, however, we see they are inferior +to the former as to extent of science. Now there are two sorts of lunar +month, called in the language of astronomers, synodical and periodical; +the first is the time from new moon to new moon, consisting of 29 days, +12 hours, 44 min. 3 seconds, which is the month most commonly used by +the early observers; the second, consisting of 27 days, 7 hours, 43 min. +5 seconds, is that portion of time which the moon takes to finish her +course round the earth. Neither of these multiplied by 13 will make up +the solar year exactly. In what manner then the Otaheitans reckon, it is +not easy to comprehend. The probability is, that they have no notion of +the periodical month.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In numeration they proceed from one to ten, the number of fingers on +both hands; and though they have for each number a different name, they +generally take hold of their fingers one by one, shifting from one hand +to the other, till they come to the number they want to express. And in +other instances, we observed that, when they were conversing with each +other, they joined signs to their words, which were so expressive that a +stranger might easily apprehend their meaning. + +<p>In counting from ten they repeat the name of that number, and add the +word <i>more</i>; ten, and one more, is eleven; ten, and two more, twelve; +and so of the rest, as we say one-and-twenty, two-and-twenty. When they +come to ten and ten more, they have a new denomination, as we say a +score; and by these scores they count till they get ten of them, when +they have a denomination for two hundred; and we never could discover +that they had any denomination to express a greater number: Neither, +indeed; do they seem to want any; for ten of these amount to two +thousand, a greater number than they can ever apply.[24] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 24: The reader cannot but be pleased with what Goguet says on +the practice of numbering with the fingers, so common in most nations, +and adopted we see by the Otaheitans. "Nature has provided us with a +kind of arithmetical instrument more generally used than is commonly +imagined; I mean our fingers. Every thing inclines us to think, that +these were the first instruments used by men to assist them in the +practice of numeration. We may observe in Homer, that Proteus counts his +sea-calves by fives and fives, that is, by his fingers. Several nations +in America have no other instruments of calculation. It was probably the +same in the primitive ages. It is another strong presumption of the +truth of what I now advance, that all civilized nations count by tens, +tens of tens, or <i>hundreds</i>, tens of hundreds, <i>thousands</i>, and so on; +still from ten to ten. We can discover no reason why the number ten +should be chosen rather than any other for the term of numeration, +except this primitive practice of counting by the fingers." The whole of +his observations on this subject are well worthy of minute +consideration. On such elements, the provision of nature, are founded +the most sublime and important sciences.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In measuring distance they are much more deficient than in computing +numbers, having but one term which answers to fathom; when they speak of +distances from place to place, they express it, like the Asiatics, by +the time that is required to pass it. + +<p>Their language is soft and melodious; it abounds with vowels, and we +easily learnt to pronounce it: But found it exceedingly difficult to +teach them to pronounce a single word of ours; probably not only from +its abounding in consonants, but from some peculiarity in its structure; +for Spanish and Italian words, if ending in a vowel, they pronounced +with great facility. + +<p>Whether it is copious, we were not sufficiently acquainted with it to +know; but it is certainly very imperfect, for it is almost totally +without inflexion, both of nouns and verbs. Few of the nouns have more +than one case, and few of the verbs more than one tense; yet we found no +great difficulty in making ourselves mutually understood, however +strange it may appear in speculation. + +<p>They have, however, certain <i>affixa</i>, which, though but few in number, +are very useful to them, and puzzled us extremely. One asks another, +<i>Harre hea?</i> "Where are you going?" the other answers <i>Ivahinera</i>, "To +my wives;" upon which the first repeating the answer interrogatively, +"To your wives?" is answered, <i>Ivahinereira</i>; "Yes, I am going to my +wives." Here the suffixa <i>era</i> and <i>eira</i> save several words to both +parties.[25] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 25: A table of some words of the language follows in the +copy.--It is omitted here, because an opportunity will occur, to give +one more full and correct; and it seemed injudicious to run the hazard +of being charged with unnecessary repetition.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Among people whose food is so simple, and who in general are seldom +drunk, it is scarcely necessary to say, that there are but few diseases; +we saw no critical disease during our stay upon the island, and but few +instances of sickness, which were accidental fits of the cholic. The +natives, however, are afflicted with the erysipelas, and cutaneous +eruptions of the scaly kind, very nearly approaching to a leprosy. Those +in whom this distemper was far advanced, lived in a state of seclusion +from all society, each in a small house built upon some unfrequented +spot, where they were supplied with provisions: But whether they had any +hope of relief, or languished out the remainder of their lives in +solitude and despair, we could not learn. We observed also a few who had +ulcers upon different parts of their bodies, some of which had a very +virulent appearance; yet they seemed not much to be regarded by those +who were afflicted with them, for they were left entirely without +application even to keep off the flies.[26] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 26: The affection of the skin, called leprosy in the text, is, +in the missionary account, ascribed to the excessive use of the <i>yava</i>, +the intoxicating beverage of the Otaheitans, and is there said to be +regarded by many as a <i>badge of nobility</i>. This perhaps is something on +the same principle as the gout is accounted among us, an evidence of a +person's being rich; for it appears, that the common people in general +are as unable to procure the yava in Otaheite, as they are on our side +of the world to indulge in luxurious living. What excellency there is in +the scabbed skins of the Otaheitan lepers, to entitle them to the +estimation of nobility, or what advantage they find in this to +compensate the sufferings of so grievous a malady, is difficult indeed +to divine; but it may be very safely affirmed of those among us, who +have prospered so well as to obtain the gout for a possession, that they +really require all the comforts of riches, though tenfold more than +imagined, to render the residue of life any way tolerable. Yet such is +the inconsistency of human nature, and so formidable its weakness of +resolution, when pernicious habits are once formed, that few persons, +though even writhing at the bare remembrance of its horrors, and +dreading its approach as the attack of + +<pre> + Perverse, all monstrous, all prodigious things, + Abominable, unutterable, and worse + Than fables yet have feign'd, or fear conceived, + Gorgons, and Hydras, and Chimeras dire, +</pre> + +<p>can be prevailed on to swear rebellion against it "For," says Dr +Heberden, "this seems to be the favourite disease of the present age in +England; wished for by those who have it not, and boasted of by those +who fancy they have it, though very sincerely lamented by most who in +reality suffer its tyranny. For, so much respect hath been shown to this +distemper, that all the other evils, except pain, which the real or +supposed gouty patient ever feels, are imputed most commonly not to his +having too much of this disease, but to his wanting more; and the gout, +far from being blamed as the cause, is looked up to as the expected +deliverer from these evils." "The dread of being cured of the gout," he +further remarks, "was and is still much greater than the dread of having +it; and the world seems agreed patiently to submit to this tyrant, lest +a worse should come in its room." It is not difficult to account for +such absurdity, though it be quite impracticable to palliate it; and +what is worse, from its being founded on something more congenial to +human nature than even prejudice, it is almost impossible to remove it. +A single quotation more from the same author, so much in repute among +his professional brethren, will at once unravel the mystery, and show +how rare a thing a cure is, where the means essential to it are +necessarily dependent on the self-denial of the patient. "Strong wines, +and in no small quantity, have the reputation of being highly beneficial +to gouty persons; which notion they have very <i>readily</i> and <i>generally</i> +received, not so much perhaps from a reasonable persuasion of its truth, +as from a desire that it should be true, because they love wine. Let +them consider, that a free use of vinous and spirituous liquors +peculiarly hurts the stomach and organs of digestion, and that the gout +is bred and fostered by those who indulge themselves in drinking much +wine; while the poorer part of mankind, who can get very little stronger +than water to drink, have better appetites than wine-drinkers, and +better digestions, and are far less subject to arthritic complaints. The +most perfect cures, of which I have been a witness, have been effected +by a total abstinence from spirits, and wine, and flesh, which in two or +three instances hath restored the helpless and miserable patients from a +state worse than death, to active and comfortable life: But I have seen +too few examples of the success of this method, to be confident or +satisfied of its general utility." The language of the missionary +account is very similar and equally encouraging. "On the discontinuance +of the practice of drinking the yava, the skin of the leprous persons +soon becomes smooth and clear, and they grow fat, though few are found +who deny themselves the use of it." If drugs could remove either of +these calamities, it is certain there would be no difficulty in getting +them to be swallowed; for most men, it seems, prefer any sorts of bitter +and nauseating substances, though taken by the pound, and without +intermission, to the salutary restraints on appetite and vicious +propensities, which common sense as well as common experience so +authoritatively enjoin. It is as unjust to censure physicians for +failing to cure the gout, as it would be to censure a surgeon for the +lameness or deformity of the leg of a man, who, while under treatment +for a fracture, should make daily attempts to dance or ride on +horseback.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Where intemperance produces no diseases, there will be no physicians by +profession; yet where there is sufferance, there will always be attempts +to relieve; and where the cause of the mischief and the remedy are alike +unknown, these will naturally be directed by superstition: Thus it +happens, that in this country, and in all others which are not further +injured by luxury, or improved by knowledge, the management of the sick +falls to the lot of the priest. The method of cure that is practised by +the priests of Otaheite, consists chiefly of prayers and ceremonies. +When he visits his patient he repeats certain sentences, which appear to +be set forms contrived for the occasion, and at the same time plaits the +leaves of the cocoa-nut into different figures very neatly; some of +these he fastens to the fingers and toes of the sick, and often leaves +behind him a few branches of the the <i>specia populnea</i>, which they call +<i>E'midho</i>: These ceremonies are repeated till the patient recovers or +dies. If he recovers, they say the remedies cured him, if he dies, they +say the disease was incurable, in which perhaps they do not much differ +from the custom of other countries.[27] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 27: Dr Hawkesworth, we see, is at loggerheads with both +priests and physicians, and spares neither. Let the respective members +of these bodies defend their crafts as they best can. Certainly they +will have the bias of the multitude in their favour, and so need to care +little about the insinuations and sarcasms of the few. If nine-tenths of +mankind give them credit for their pretences, and of consequence yield +to their influence, they may contentedly, without a grudge, see the +remaining modicum persist in their obstinacy. The fact is, however, that +the fears and hopes of mankind are almost always superior in efficacy to +their reason, and accordingly, in the two predicaments of bodily and +spiritual health, are continually acting like tendrils which embrace +with undistinguishing affection whatever comes in their way, as the ivy +clings to the tree or wall that happens to be in its neighbourhood. +Influence, once acquired by accident or artifice, is easily prolonged by +him who knows the secret of its origin and existence--and hence in all +ages and countries of the world, the mysteries and mummeries of +designing men, leagued to practise on the infatuated propensities and +real weaknesses of their fellow creatures. It is not till many +generations have passed, that the small sparks of reason, occasionally +shooting off in various directions, have penetrated the gloomy +atmosphere around them, and ascertained the universal and unqualified +dependence of the whole human race on the same uncontroulable powers. In +proportion as these rays of light have coalesced, the presumption of the +<i>learned brethren</i> has decreased; and should this superlative discovery +be ever consummated in the general conviction of society, then will +their characters undergo a thorough revolution--they will be loved more +and admired less--they will be considered, not as the repositories of +secrets to be dispensed with the cold hand of calculating avarice and +hypocrisy, but as the liberally minded declarers of those generally +beneficial truths which honest study has discovered, in their peculiar +departments of science. Till then the world must submit to wonder and +believe, and, above all things, to pay them fees. But, looking forward +to this era of improvement, they may join with the poet in saying + +<pre> + Yes! there are hearts, prophetic Hope may trust, + That slumber yet in uncreated dust, + Ordain'd to fire th' adoring sons of earth + With every charm of wisdom and of worth; + Ordain'd to light, with intellectual day, + The mazy wheels of Nature as they play. +</pre> +--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>If we had judged of their skill in surgery from the dreadful scars which +we sometimes saw, we should have supposed it to be much superior to the +art not only of their physicians, but of ours. We saw one man whose face +was almost entirely destroyed, his nose, including the bone, was +perfectly flat, and one cheek and one eye were so beaten in that the +hollow would almost receive a man's fist, yet no ulcer remained; and our +companion, Tupia, had been pierced quite through his body by a spear +headed with the bone of the sting-ray, the weapon having entered his +back, and come out just under his breast; but, except in reducing +dislocations and fractures, the best surgeon can contribute very little +to the cure of a wound; the blood itself is the best vulnerary balsam, +and when the juices of the body are pure, and the patient is temperate, +nothing more is necessary as an aid to nature in the cure of the worst +wound, than the keeping it clean. + +<p>Their commerce with the inhabitants of Europe has, however, already +entailed upon them that dreadful curse which avenged the inhumanities +committed by the Spaniards in America, the venereal disease. As it is +certain that no European vessel besides our own, except the Dolphin, and +the two that were under the command of Mons. Bougainville, ever visited +this island, it must have been brought either by one of them or by +us.[28] That it was not brought by the Dolphin, Captain Wallis has +demonstrated in the account of her voyage, and nothing is more certain +than that when we arrived, it had made most dreadful ravages in the +island. One of our people contracted it within five days after we went +on shore; and by the enquiries among the natives, which this occasioned, +we learnt, when we came to understand a little of their language, that +it had been brought by the vessels which had been there about fifteen +months before us, and had lain on the east side of the island. They +distinguished it by a name of the same import with <i>rottenness</i>, but of +a more extensive signification, and described, in the most pathetic +terms, the sufferings of the first victims to its rage, and told us that +it caused the hair and the nails to fall off, and the flesh to rot from +the bones; that it spread a universal terror and consternation among +them, so that the sick were abandoned by their nearest relations, lest +the calamity should spread by contagion, and left to perish alone in +such misery as till then had never been known among them. We had some +reason, however, to hope that they had found out a specific to cure it: +During our stay upon the island we saw none in whom it had made a great +progress, and one who went from us infected, returned after a short time +in perfect health; and by this it appeared, either that the disease had +cured itself, or that they were not unacquainted with the virtues of +simples, nor implicit dupes to the superstitious follies of their +priests. We endeavoured to learn the medical qualities which they +imputed to their plants, but our knowledge of their language was too +imperfect for us to succeed. If we could have learnt their specific for +the venereal disease, if such they have, it would have been of great +advantage to us, for when we left the island it had been contracted by +more than half the people on board the ship. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 28: Bougainville most positively asserts, that the disease +existed in the island at his arrival; yet the statement of Wallis as to +the <i>soundness</i> of his crew, seems deserving of all credit. After all, +perhaps, there is reason to doubt if the affection judged to be the Lues +Venerea, and at different times so exceedingly prevalent among these +people, were really so. Scientific men of the medical profession, know +the extreme difficulty there is of deciding, as to the existence of this +disease in certain cases. Common observers easily perceive and +confidently aver. But to the general reader the discussion of this topic +would be very unamusing. It is indeed quite irrelevant to the objects of +this work. But there may be some propriety in giving the following +remarks. The origin of the disease in question has never been distinctly +ascertained, and perhaps never will be. The common opinion is, that it +was brought from the western hemisphere; and the island of Hispaniola or +St Domingo is particularly mentioned by some writers as the place of its +first appearance. Hence the historian Robertson, with somewhat more of +unnecessary vehemence than of dignified moderation and good sense, tells +us in words very like part of our text: "One dreadful malady, the +severest scourge with which, in this life, offended heaven chastens the +indulgence of criminal desire, seems to have been peculiar to the +Americans. By communicating it to their conquerors, they have not only +amply avenged their own wrongs, but by adding this calamity to those +which formerly embittered human life, they have, perhaps, more than +counterbalanced all the benefits which Europe has derived from the +discovery of the New World." As if a disease which every body might have +avoided, so soon as its existence, its inveterate nature, and the mode +of communicating it, were known, and which, after all that has been said +of its malignity and rapid progress, was both mitigated by various means +soon after its appearance, and ultimately at no great distance of time +effectually arrested in its terrifying career--as if this could be +considered competent to liquidate all the advantages and the greatly +augmented comforts which have resulted to Europe and to the world at +large by the discoveries of Columbus: And as if, granting all that has +been exaggeratingly related of its spreading over Europe with the +celerity and unqualified extension of an epidemic--such visitation on +multitudes of generations no way implicated in the guilt, could by any +rules of logic for the interpreting of Providence be construed into acts +of righteous retribution in avenging these Indians! But in reality, it +is highly disputable if the facts on which is exhibited such an +<i>uncommonly</i> zealous display of justice on the part of the historian, +are adequate to warrant his opinion, that America inflicted this +calamity. This is rather unfortunate for his apparent warmth of piety, +and the more so, as, from the information to which he alludes in his +note on the text, he must have been diffident at least of the accuracy +of its application. In that note, he makes mention of a dissertation +published in 1765, by Dr Antonio Sanchez Ribeiro, in which it is +endeavoured to be proved that the venereal disease took its rise in +Europe, and was brought on by an epidemical and malignant disorder. +Though calling in question some of the facts on which this opinion is +built, the Principal allows that it "is supported with such plausible +arguments, as render it (what? deserving of considerable regard, or very +probable? No such thing--as render it) a subject of enquiry well +deserving the attention of learned physicians!" Mr Bryan Edwards is more +moderate in his judgment of the matter, and seemingly more industrious +in ascertaining the evidence of it. In his opinion, an attentive +enquirer will hesitate to subscribe to the conclusion that this +infection was the product of the West Indies. He refers to the work of +Sanchez above mentioned, and to several other works, for reasons to +substantiate the other view; and he terminates his note with the +following paragraph, which by most readers will be considered of +superlative authority as to one important part of the case: In Stowe's +Survey of London, vol. ii. p. 7, is preserved a copy of the rules or +regulations established by parliament in the eighth year of Henry the +Second, for the government of the licensed stews in Southwark, among +which I find the following: "No stewholder to keep any woman that hath +the perilous infirmity of burning." This was 330 years before the voyage +of Columbus. If this "perilous infirmity of burning" be the disease now +denominated the Lues Venerea, the question is solved as to the concern +of America in its production. And all that Oviedo, Guicciardin, +Charlevoix, and others say, as to its first appearance in Europe, when +the king of Spain sent an army to the assistance of Ferdinand the Second +of Naples, must be reckoned as applicable only to its greater frequency, +or more common occurrence, than had before been known. But, indeed, the +description given of the disease which then prevailed so alarmingly, is +with some difficulty reconcileable to what is now ascertained of the +venereal infection. Guicciardin himself seems to hint at a diversity in +its form and mode of reception, betwixt the period he assigns for its +appearance, and "after the course of many years." "For then," says he, +(the quotation is made from Fenton's curious translation, London, 1599) +"the disease began to be less malitious, changing itself into diverse +kindes of infirmity, <i>differing from the first calamity</i>, whereof truly +the regions and people of our times might justly complain, <i>if it +happened to them without their proper disorder</i> (that is, without their +own fault,) seeing it is well approved by all those that have diligently +studied and observed the properties of that evil, that either never or +very rarely it happeneth to any otherwayes, than by contagious whoredome +or immoderate incontinency." That a mistake exists in the early accounts +as to the nature of the disease which was found at Hispaniola by the +Spaniards, and by them on their return to Europe communicated to the +French and Neapolitans, is very probable from the circumstance mentioned +in them, that some vegetable substances, especially <i>guiaicum</i>, were +effectual for its cure;--since it is most certain, that the Lues Venerea +of modern times is not at all destructible by such means, whereas there +are several cutaneous affections which may be benefited by them. A +similar remark may be made respecting the disease observable at +Otaheite, which, as the reader will find in the text, is said to have +been cured by <i>simples</i> known to the inhabitants. This is most unlikely, +if that disease were really the Lues Venerea, as is alleged, and had not +existed among them previous to the arrival of Europeans; though what +Lawson says in his account of the natives of North Carolina does +undoubtedly yield material evidence to such an opinion. "They cure," +says he, "the pox, which is frequent among them, by a berry that +salivates, as mercury does; yet they use sweating and decoctions very +much with it; as they do, almost on every occasion; and when they are +thoroughly heated, they leap into the river." The natives of Madagascar +too are said to cure this disease by similar treatment. But the reader's +patience, perhaps, is exhausted, and it is full time to conclude this +long note. On the whole, it seems probable enough, that this disease is +not the product of any one particular country, and from it propagated +among others by communication, but is the result of certain +circumstances not indeed yet ascertained, but common to the human race, +and of earlier occurrence in the world than is generally imagined.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>It is impossible but that, in relating incidents, many particulars with +respect to the customs, opinions, and works of these people should be +anticipated; to avoid repetition therefore, I shall only supply +deficiencies. Of the manner of disposing of their dead much has been +said already. I must more explicitly observe, that there are two places +in which the dead are deposited; one a kind of shed, where the flesh is +suffered to putrify; the other an inclosure, with erections of stone, +where the bones are afterwards buried. The sheds are called <i>Tupapow</i> +and the inclosures <i>Morai</i>. The Morais are also places of worship.[29] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 29: "It is the heaviest stone," says Sir Thomas Brown in his +curious work Hydriotaphia, "that melancholy can throw at a man, to tell +him he is at the end of his nature; or that there is no farther state to +come, unto which this seems progressional, and otherwise made in vain." +But of such a conspiracy and assault against the best hopes of man, +these Otaheitans, we see, are by no means guilty. They look for another +existence after that one is finished, in which the body held an +inseparable companionship. By their mode of treating the dead, they seem +to study the perpetuity of friendship, and by their using their morais +as places of worship, they acknowledge a fellowship with them in +something that death cannot destroy. The philosopher of modern times may +say this is foolish, and may call for evidence that the notion of +immortality is not groundless. It is perhaps impossible to satisfy him, +because, in fact, he demands of reason what it is not the province of +reason to afford. The notion is founded on other principles of the +constitution which God has imparted to man, and these principles rebut +all the sophistry of the presumptuous sciolist. Is it true, that this +notion prevails universally among the human race? Let him answer to +this. He must admit it;--let him then explain it, if he can. Reason, he +will say, is incompetent to the task.--Admitted. But so is it to many +other tasks--it cannot, for instance, solve the question, why we believe +the sun will rise to-morrow and dispel the darkness now cloaking over +the horizon? The hope that it will do so, is nevertheless very natural. +Who shall say it is improper, or that it is founded on the mere fancy of +man? Reason indeed may strengthen the ground of this hope, and so may it +too the notion of a future existence. But they both rest on foundations +quite distinct from that faculty, and might, for any thing can be seen +to the contrary, have formed part of our moral constitution, although +that faculty had never existed in our minds. And here let it be +distinctly understood, that in stating the notion or expectation of a +future existence to be founded on some principle or principles separate +from reason, and the same in all the human race, it is not meant to be +denied that the mere opinions as to the nature and condition of that +existence may have no other foundation whatever than what Mr Hume, for +instance, has ascribed erroneously to the notion itself--men's own +conceit and imagination. This in fact is the secret of that writer's +vile sophistry on the subject, and at once confutes it, by proving the +inapplicability of his argument. All that is now contended for, is, the +universality of the notion or belief, not by any means the similarity of +the opinions connected with it. These opinions are as numerous, indeed, +as the characteristic features of different nations and governments; but +were they a thousand times more diversified than they are ascertained to +be, and a thousand times more contradictory and absurd, they still +recognise some instinctive or constitutional principle common to our +race, and which no reasoning or artifices of priests or designing men +could possibly produce. No conceit or imagination can ever originate, +though it may certainly foster, "this hope, this fond desire, this +longing after immortality;" and no reasoning, no efforts of the mind, +nay, what is still more striking, no dislike, however strong, as +proceeding from an apprehension of some evil consequences involved in +the truth of the belief, can eradicate the inclination to entertain it. +In short, it is no way paradoxical to assert, that, were man by any +means to know that there shall be no hereafter, his whole life, +supposing his constitution to remain the same, would be a direct and +continued contradiction to his knowledge. This, to be sure, would be a +strange anomaly in the government of God, and utterly irreconcileable +with every view we can form of his veracity, if we may use the +expression, though still consistent with his wisdom and goodness. But +what then shall we say of the conduct of the would-be philosophers, who, +with limited faculties and intelligences and benevolence, (this is no +disparagement, for even Voltaire himself, with all his powers, was but a +finite creature!) force reason and science to prove what their own +feelings belie, and to oppose what their consciences declare to be +irresistible? It is not profane, on such an occasion, to accommodate the +language of an apostle into a suitable rebuke to such perverse +contenders. "What if some labour not to believe, shall their attempts +frustrate the work of God? Far be it--God will maintain his truth, +though all men should conspire against it." Allowing then free scope to +a notion so natural to us, and having our opinions guided by an unerring +light, we shall see that there is something vastly more dignified than +fashion in the funeral rites of the Otaheitans--and feel that there is +something vastly more important than eloquence, in the words of an +author already quoted at the commencement of this note:--"Man is a noble +animal, splendid in ashes, and pompous in the grave, solemnizing +nativities and deaths with equal lustre, nor omitting ceremonies of +bravery, in the infancy of his nature;"--the reason for which is +explained by another author, in words still more sublime and +exhilarating:--"For we know that if our earthly house of this tabernacle +were dissolved, we have a building of God, an house not made with hands, +eternal in the heavens."--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>As soon as a native of Otaheite is known to be dead, the house is filled +with relations, who deplore their loss, some by loud lamentations, and +some by less clamorous, but more genuine expressions of grief. Those who +are in the nearest degree of kindred, and are really affected by the +event, are silent; the rest are one moment uttering passionate +exclamations in a chorus, and the next laughing and talking without the +least appearance of concern. In this manner the remainder of the day on +which they assemble is spent, and all the succeeding night. On the next +morning the body is shrouded in their cloth, and conveyed to the seaside +upon a bier, which the bearers support upon their shoulders, attended by +the priest, who having prayed over the body, repeats his sentences +during the procession: When it arrives at the water's edge, it is set +down upon the beach; the priest renews his prayers, and taking up some +of the water in his hands, sprinkles it towards the body, but not upon +it. It is then carried back forty or fifty yards, and soon after brought +again to the beach, where the prayers and sprinkling are repeated: It is +thus removed backwards and forwards several times, and while these +ceremonies have been performing, a house has been built, and a small +space of ground railed in. In the centre of this house, or Tupapow, +posts are set up to support the bier, which is at length conveyed +thither, and placed upon it, and here the body remains to putrify till +the flesh is wholly wasted from the bones. + +<p>These houses of corruption are of a size proportioned to the rank of the +person whose body they are to contain; those allotted to the lower class +are just sufficient to cover the bier, and have no railing round them. +The largest we ever saw was eleven yards long, and such as these are +ornamented according to the abilities and inclination of the surviving +kindred, who never fail to lay a profusion of good cloth about the body, +and sometimes almost cover the outside of the house. Garlands of the +fruit of the palm-nut, or <i>pandanus</i>, and cocoa leaves, twisted by the +priests in mysterious knots, with a plant called by them <i>Ethee no +Morai</i>, which is particularly consecrated to funeral solemnities, are +deposited about the place; provision and water are also left at a little +distance, of which, and of other decorations, a more particular +description has been given already. + +<p>As soon as the body is deposited in the Tupapow, the mourning is +renewed. The women assemble, and are led to the door by the nearest +relation, who strikes a shark's tooth several times into the crown of +her head: The blood copiously follows, and is carefully received upon +pieces of linen, which are thrown under the bier. The rest of the women +follow this example, and the ceremony is repeated at the interval of two +or three days, as long as the zeal and sorrow of the parties hold out. +The tears also which are shed upon these occasions, are received upon +pieces of cloth, and offered as oblations to the dead: Some of the +younger people cut off their hair, and that is thrown under the bier +with the other offerings. This custom is founded upon a notion that the +soul of the deceased, which they believe to exist in a separate state, +is hovering about the place where the body is deposited; that it +observes the actions of the survivors, and is gratified by such +testimonies of their affection and grief. + +<p>Two or three days after these ceremonies have been commenced by the +women, during which the men seem to be wholly insensible of their loss, +they also begin to perform their part. The nearest relations take it in +turn to assume the dress, and perform the office which have already been +particularly described in the account of Tubourai Tamaide's having acted +as chief mourner to an old woman, his relation, who died while we were +in the island. One part of the ceremony, however, which accounts for the +running away of the people as soon as this procession is in sight, has +not been mentioned. The chief mourner carries in his hand a long flat +stick, the edge of which is set with shark's teeth, and in a phrenzy, +which his grief is supposed to have inspired, he runs at all he sees, +and if any of them happen to be overtaken, he strikes them most +unmercifully with this indented cudgel, which cannot fail to wound them +in a dangerous manner. + +<p>These processions continue at certain intervals for five moons, but are +less and less frequent, by a gradual diminution, as the end of that time +approaches. When it is expired, what remains of the body is taken down +from the bier, and the bones having been scraped and washed very clean, +are buried, according to the rank of the person, either within or +without a morai: If the deceased was an earee, or chief, his skull is +not buried with the rest of the bones, but is wrapped up in fine cloth, +and put in a kind of box made for that purpose, which is also placed in +the morai. This coffer is called <i>ewharre no te orometua</i>, the house of +a teacher or master. After this the mourning ceases, except some of the +women continue to be really afflicted for the loss, and in that case +they will sometimes suddenly wound themselves with the shark's tooth +wherever they happen to be: This perhaps will account for the passion +of grief in which Terapo wounded herself at the fort; some accidental +circumstance might forcibly revive the remembrance of a friend or +relation whom she had lost, with a pungency of regret and tenderness +which forced a vent by tears, and prompted her to a repetition of the +funeral rite. + +<p>The ceremonies, however, do not cease with the mourning: Prayers are +still said by the priest, who is well paid by the surviving relations, +and offerings made at the morai. Some of the things, which from time to +time are deposited there, are emblematical: A young plantain represents +the deceased, and the bunch of feathers the deity who is invoked. The +priest places himself over against the symbol of the god, accompanied by +some of the relations, who are furnished with a small offering, and +repeats his oraison in a set form, consisting of separate sentences; at +the same time weaving the leaves of the cocoa-nut into different forms, +which he afterwards deposits upon the ground where the bones have been +interred; the deity is then addressed by a shrill screech, which is used +only upon that occasion. When the priest retires, the tuft of feathers +is removed, and the provisions left to putrify, or be devoured by the +rats.[30] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 30: There is something very remarkable in the circumstance of +resemblance among very different and distant people, as to the practice +of mourning for the dead, when in fact there can be no such thing as +grief in existence, and when the appearance of it is merely a part of +what may be called professional duty. It is clear from the accounts of +the text and other authorities, that more are concerned in this mourning +work at Otaheite, than are really concerned in the occasion of it; and +the probability of course is, that in some way or other these additional +attendants are recompensed for their doleful services. That the use of +mercenary mourners prevailed, and still prevails, among some eastern +nations, is clear from Scripture and the relations of recent authors. +The reader will find some amusing information concerning them, and an +account of the Caoinan or funeral cry of the Irish as practised for +similar purposes, in Dr A. Clarke's edition of Mr Harmer's Observations, +before alluded to. A quotation from that work can scarcely fail to +interest the reader, who will be afterwards favoured with a very curious +description of what is said by Lawson to have been practised in North +Carolina, in which the general point of resemblance is most strikingly +displayed.--"Not only do the relations and female friends, in Egypt, +surround the corpse, while it remains unburied, with the most bitter +cries, scratching and beating their faces so violently as to make them +bloody, and black, and blue; but, to render the hubbub more complete, +and do the more honour to the dead person, whom they seem to imagine to +be very fond of noise, those of the lower class of people are wont to +call in, on these occasions, certain <i>women</i>, who play on tabors, and +whose business it is to sing mournful airs to the sound of this +instrument, which they accompany with a thousand distortions of their +limbs, as frightful as those of people possessed by the devil. These +women attend the corpse to the grave intermixed with the relations and +friends of the deceased, who commonly have their hair in the utmost +disorder, like the frantic Bacchanalian women of the ancient heathens, +their heads covered with dust, their faces daubed with indigo, or at +least rubbed with mud, and howling like mad people." Now let us hear +Lawson.--"These savages all agree in their mourning, which is to appear, +every night, at the sepulchre, and howl and weep in a very dismal +manner, having their faces daubed over with light-wood soot, (which is +the same as lamp-black) and bears-oil. This renders them as black as it +is possible to make themselves, so that their's very much resemble the +faces of executed men boiled in tar. If the dead person was a grandee, +to carry on the funeral ceremonies, they hire people to cry and lament +over the dead man. Of this sort there are several, that practise it for +a livelihood, and are very expert at shedding abundance of tears, and +howling like wolves, and so discharging their office with abundance of +hypocrisy and art." The reader will meet with a pretty full account of +the funeral ceremonies among some of the eastern nations, in Dr Scott's +introduction to his recent edition of the Arabian Nights +Entertainments.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Of the religion of these people, we were not able to acquire any clear +and consistent knowledge: We found it like the religion of most other +countries, involved in mystery, and perplexed with apparent +inconsistencies. The religious language is also here, as it is in China, +different from that which is used in common; so that Tupia, who took +great pains to instruct us, having no words to express his meaning which +we understood, gave us lectures to very little purpose: What we learnt, +however, I will relate with as much perspicuity as I can. + +<p>Nothing is more obvious to a rational being, however ignorant or stupid, +than that the universe and its various parts, as far as they fall under +his notice, were produced by some agent inconceivably more powerful than +himself; and nothing is more difficult to be conceived, even by the most +sagacious and knowing, than the production of them from nothing, which +among us is expressed by the word <i>Creation</i>. It is natural therefore, +as no Being apparently capable of producing the universe is to be seen, +that he should be supposed to reside in some distant part of it, or to +be in his nature invisible, and that he should have originally produced +all that now exists in a manner similar to that in which nature is +renovated by the succession of one generation to another; but the idea +of procreation includes in it that of two persons, and from the +conjunction of two persons these people imagine every thing in the +universe either originally or derivatively to proceed. + +<p>The Supreme Deity, one of these two first beings, they call +<i>Taroataihetoomoo</i>, and the other, whom they suppose to have been a +rock, <i>Tepapa</i>. A daughter of these was <i>Tettowmatatayo</i>, the year, or +thirteen months collectively, which they never name but upon this +occasion, and she, by the common father, produced the months, and the +months, by conjunction with each other, the days; the stars they suppose +partly to be the immediate offspring of the first pair, and partly to +have increased among themselves; and they have the same notion with +respect to the different species of plants. Among other progeny of +Taroataihetoomoo and Tepapa, they suppose an inferior race of deities +whom they call <i>Eatuas</i>. Two of these Eatuas, they say, at some remote +period of time, inhabited the earth, and were the parents of the first +man. When this man, their common ancestor, was born, they say that he +was round like a ball, but that his mother, with great care, drew out +his limbs, and having at length moulded him into his present form, she +called him <i>Eothe</i>, which signifies <i>finished</i>. That being prompted by +the universal instinct to propagate his kind, and being able to find no +female but his mother, he begot upon her a daughter, and upon the +daughter other daughters for several generations, before there was a +son; a son, however, being at length born, he, by the assistance of his +sisters, peopled the world. + +<p>Besides their daughter Tettowmatatayo, the first progenitors of nature +had a son whom they called <i>Tane</i>. Taroataihetoomoo, the Supreme Deity, +they emphatically style the causer of earthquakes; but their prayers are +more generally addressed to Tane, whom they suppose to take a greater +part in the affairs of mankind. + +<p>Their subordinate deities or Eatuas, which are numerous, are of both +sexes: The male are worshipped by the men, and the female by the women; +and each have morais to which the other sex is not admitted, though they +have also morais common to both. Men perform the office of priest to +both sexes, but each sex has its priests, for those who officiate for +one sex do not officiate for the other.[31] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 31: In several respects the theological notions of these +islanders resemble those of the oriental philosophers, spoken of in +Mosheim's Historical Account of the Church in the First Century, to +which the curious reader is referred. The Otaheitan Eatuas and the +Gnostic [Greek] seem near a-kin; the generation scheme is common to +both. What said the philosophers? The Supreme Being, after passing many +ages in silence and inaction, did at length beget of himself, two beings +of very excellent nature like his own; these, by some similar operation, +produced others, who having the same desires and ability, soon generated +more, till the [Greek], or whole space inhabited by them, was +completely occupied. A sort of inferior beings proceeded from these, and +were considered by the worshippers as intermediate betwixt themselves +and the upper gods. But enough of this trash. Let certain infatuated +admirers of ancient philosophy blush, if they are capable of such an +indication of modesty, to find that the rude and tin-lettered +inhabitants of an island in the South-Sea, are not a whit behind their +venerated sages in the manufacture of gods and godlings. Alas, poor +Gibbon! must the popular religion of Otaheite, the licentious, the +dissolute, the child-murdering, the <i>unnatural</i> Otaheite, be put on a +level with the elegant mythology of Homer, and the mild, serviceable +superstition of imperial Rome? Why not? Is it fitting that even Otaheite +be excluded the benefit of this very impartial historian's humane maxim, +which he puts into the mouths of the Lords of the earth; "in every +country, the form of superstition, which has received the sanction of +time and experience, is the best adapted to the climate and to its +inhabitants?" By all means, give Taroataihetoomoo, Tepapa, and +Tettowmatatayo, the <i>freedom of the city</i>--only clip their names a +little for the conveniency of the liberal-minded catholics who may +desire their acquaintance.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They believe the immortality of the soul, at least its existence in a +separate state, and that there are two situations of different degrees +of happiness, somewhat analogous to our heaven and hell: The superior +situation they call <i>Tavirua Perai</i>, the other <i>Tiahoboo</i>. They do not, +however, consider them as places of reward and punishment, but as +receptacles for different classes; the first, for their chiefs and +principal people, the other for those of inferior rank, for they do not +suppose that their actions here in the least influence their future +state, or indeed that they come under the cognizance of their deities at +all. Their religion, therefore, if it has no influence upon their +morals, is at least disinterested; and their expressions of adoration +and reverence, whether by words or actions, arise only from a humble +sense of their own inferiority, and the ineffable excellence of divine +perfection. + +<p>The character of the priest, or Tahowa, is hereditary: The class is +numerous, and consists of all ranks of people; the Chief, however, is +generally the younger brother of a good family, and is respected in a +degree next to their kings: Of the little knowledge that is possessed in +this country, the priests have the greatest share; but it consists +principally in an acquaintance with the names and ranks of the different +Eatuas or subordinate divinities, and the opinions concerning the origin +of things, which have been traditionally preserved among the order in +detached sentences, of which some will repeat an incredible number, +though but very few of the words that are used in their common dialect +occur in them. + +<p>The priests, however, are superior to the rest of the people in the +knowledge of navigation and astronomy, and indeed the name Tahowa +signifies nothing more than a man of knowledge. As there are priests of +every class, they officiate only among that class to which they belong: +The priest of the inferior class is never called upon by those of +superior rank, nor will the priest of the superior rank officiate for +any of the inferior class. + +<p>Marriage in this island, as appeared to us, is nothing more than an +agreement between the man and woman, with which the priest has no +concern. Where it is contracted it appears to be pretty well kept, +though sometimes the parties separate by mutual consent, and in that +case a divorce takes place with as little trouble as the marriage. + +<p>But though the priesthood has laid the people under no tax for a nuptial +benediction, there are two operations which it has appropriated, and +from which it derives considerable advantages. One is <i>tattowing</i>, and +the other circumcision, though neither of them have any connection with +religion. The tattowing has been described already. Circumcision has +been adopted merely from motives of cleanliness; it cannot indeed +properly be called circumcision, because the <i>prepuce</i> is not mutilated +by a circular wound, but only slit through the upper part to prevent its +contracting over the <i>glans</i>. As neither of these can be performed by +any but a priest, and as to be without either is the greatest disgrace, +they may be considered as a claim to surplice fees like our marriages +and christenings, which are cheerfully and liberally paid, not according +to any settled stipend, but the rank and abilities of the parties or +their friends. + +<p>The morai, as has already been observed, is at once a burying-ground and +a place of worship, and in this particular our churches too much +resemble it. The Indian, however, approaches his morai with a reverence +and humility that disgraces the christian, not because he holds any +thing sacred that is there, but because he there worships an invisible +divinity, for whom, though he neither hopes for reward, nor fears +punishment, at his hand, he always expresses the profoundest homage and +most humble adoration. I have already given a very particular +description both of the morais and the altars that are placed near them. +When an Indian is about to worship at the morai, or brings his offering +to the altar, he always uncovers his body to the waist, and his looks +and attitude are such as sufficiently express a corresponding +disposition of mind.[32] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 32: Almost all the particulars now and afterwards stated <i>in +favour</i> of the Otaheitans, are fully allowed by recent accounts, +especially that of the Missionary Voyage already noticed.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>It did not appear to us that these people are, in any instance, guilty +of idolatry; at least they do not worship any thing that is the work of +their hands, nor any visible part of the creation. This island indeed, +and the rest that lie near it, have a particular bird, some a heron, and +others a king's fisher, to which they pay a peculiar regard, and +concerning which they have some superstitious notions with respect to +good and bad fortune, as we have of the swallow and robin-red-breast, +giving them the name of <i>Eatua</i>, and by no means killing or molesting +them; yet they never address a petition to them, or approach them with +any act of adoration.[33] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 33: The account now given of the religion of the Otaheitans is +imperfect in point of information; and it must be held erroneous as to +principle, by all who chuse to derive their knowledge on the subject of +man's relation to his Maker, from the sacred Scriptures alone. The +imperfections were the consequence of the very limited acquaintance with +these islanders, which existed at the time, and may be readily filled up +on the authority of subsequent observers. As to the erroneousness of +principle, it may suffice for the enlightened reader to remind him, that +as the Supreme Being himself is the only object of worship, so every +other one that is worshipped in place of him, whether made by the hands +of men, or found made by nature, or conceived to exist, is virtually and +essentially an idol. It follows from this, that idolatry is much more +prevalent than is usually imagined, and is by no means confined to +nations in a barbarous or semi-barbarous state. The worshippers of +reason, or virtue, or taste, or fashion, or nature, or one's own +goodness and piety, or the spiritual entities of philosophers and +religionists, are as truly idolaters as the worshippers of the grand +lama in Thibet, or the economical sect in Lapland, who content +themselves with the largest stone they can find. Mr Hume, who has been +at such pains to enquire into the natural history of religion, is most +unnecessarily cautious as to the qualifying of one of his most important +assertions on the subject of the prevalence of idolaters. "The savage +tribes of America, Africa, and Asia," says he, "are all idolaters. Not a +single exception to this rule. Insomuch, that, were a traveller to +transport himself into any unknown region; if he found inhabitants +cultivated with arts and sciences, though even upon that supposition +there are odds against their being theists, yet could he not safely, +till further enquiry, pronounce any thing on that head; but if he found +them ignorant and barbarous, he might beforehand declare them idolaters; +and there is scarcely a possibility of his being mistaken." He might +have said with perfect confidence, that a traveller would scarcely find +one person in a thousand amid all the tribes of the earth, who was +entitled to be considered as a pure theist, or at least, who was +single-minded in the exercise of his religious devotion. The generality +of mankind, in short, are like a certain people of old,--they fear the +Lord, and worship their own gods. Then again as to the disinterestedness +of the Otaheitan devotees, Dr Hawkesworth egregiously blunders--as if it +were conceivable, or any way natural, that they or any other people +could possibly serve their divinities without entertaining the hope that +they should be served by them in turn. This were to exceed even Homer in +his exaggerating human nature at the expence of the gods. That poet puts +a curious speech in the mouth of Dione, the mother of Venus, when +addressing her daughter, who had been wounded by Diomede:-- + +<pre> + My child! how hard soe'er thy sufferings seem, + Endure them patiently, since many a wrong + From human hands profane the gods endure, + And many a painful stroke mankind from ours. +</pre> + +<p>But Dr H. it is probable, had embraced the fanatical and monstrous +notion of some specialists, that God and religion were to be loved for +their own sakes; not because of the benefits they confer; and he wished +to exalt the characters of these islanders by representing them as +acting on it. This, however, is as irrational in itself, as it is +impracticable by such a creature as man. Self-love, directed by wisdom, +is perhaps the best principle that can actuate him. Considering +scripture as an authority, there is a high degree of commendation +implied in what is said of Moses by an apostle, when speaking of his +faith and obedience, and accounting for it, "he had respect unto the +recompence of reward;" and of one higher than Moses it is related, that, +"for the joy set before him, (certainly not then possessed,) he endured +the cross." Were man always to act from a sense of what he has received, +and the hope of what he may receive, he would never do wrong. He, on the +other hand, that attempts to serve God out of pure benevolence, and +without expectation of advantage, will soon spurn archangels, and may +set up for a God himself, on any day he shall think he has succeeded in +accomplishing such super-eminent disinterestedness. On the whole, it may +be remarked, that the Dr seems correct enough in his notions of +religion, considered as founded on reason; but is far from being so in +those concerning its foundation in the principles of human nature. This, +however, seems the consequence of inattention to the subject as a +speculation, rather than of studied disregard to those secret surmisings +which every human heart will oftentimes experience to carry it beyond +the brink of perishable things, and to give it a birth amid the +realities of wonder, fear, and hope. Far be it from the writer to class +him amongst those whom the poet Campbell so pathetically, and yet so +indignantly describes in the beautiful lines,-- + +<pre> + Oh! lives there, heaven! beneath thy dread expanse, + One hopeless, dark idolater of chance, + Content to feed, with pleasures unrefined, + The lukewarm passions of a lowly mind; + Who, mouldering earthward, 'reft of every trust, + In joyless union wedded to the dust, + Could all his parting energy dismiss, + And call this barren world sufficient bliss? +</pre> + +<p>He may not merit the "proud applause," the "pre-eminence in ill," of +those "lights of the world," and "demi-gods of fame," who league reason +and science against the hopes of mankind, and busy themselves in +throwing the "heaviest stones of melancholy" at the poor wretch +shivering over the dregs of life, and tottering towards the grass. And +yet it is certain, that what was written on his own tombstone implied +much less the hope of another life, than the gloomy satisfaction of +having partners in the darkness and inactivity of death. The reader will +see it in the Encyclopædia Britannica, where a short account of him is +given.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Though I dare not assert that these people, to whom the art of writing, +and consequently the recording of laws, are utterly unknown, live under +a regular form of government, yet a subordination is established among +them, that greatly resembles the early state of every nation in Europe +under the feudal system, which secured liberty in the most licentious +excess to a few, and entailed the most abject slavery upon the rest.[34] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 34: The government of this island, it is most certain, is both +monarchical and hereditary in one family. There is not the smallest +reason to think that the Otaheitans, with all their ingenuity and love +of freedom, are, any more than other people, exempt from those +principles so vigorously depicted by Cowper in his "Task," as the origin +of kingship:-- + +<pre> + It is the abject property of most, + That, being parcel of the common mass, + And destitute of means to raise themselves, + They sink, and settle, lower than they need. + They know not what it is to feel within + A comprehensive faculty, that grasps + Great purposes with ease, that turns and wields + Almost without an effort, plans too vast + For their conception, which they cannot move. + Conscious of impotence, they soon grow drunk + With gazing, when they see an able man + Step forth to notice; and besotted thus, + Build him a pedestal, and say, "Stand there, + And be our admiration and our praise." +</pre> + +<p>But at what time this able man stepped forth to monopolise the +admiration and the allegiance of his brethren (all sound men and true!), +is not in the record. The Otaheitans, we know, are not historians. +Probably, then, they have been favoured by their priests with some good +orthodox doctrine, as to divine appointment on the subject. Indeed, the +case of these islanders is one in which the necessary effect of that +consciousness of impotence and self-abasement, is scarcely in any degree +counteracted by other principles. We see it literally exemplifying the +description of the poet,-- + +<pre> + Thenceforth they are his cattle: drudges, born + To bear his burdens, drawing in his gears, + And sweating in his service, his caprice + Becomes the soul that animates them all. +</pre> + +<p>"It is considered," says the missionary account, "as the distinctive +mark of their regal dignity, to be every where carried about on men's +shoulders. As their persons are esteemed sacred, before them all must +uncover below their breast. They may not enter into any house but their +own, because, from that moment, it would become raã, or sacred, and none +but themselves, or their train, could dwell or eat there; and the land +their feet touched would be their property." It sometimes happens in +other countries, it is true, that men can be found base enough to +emulate beasts of burden, by drawing the carriages of their sovereign +lords. This, however, is only on some peculiar occasions, where certain +clear indications of personal superiority have been manifested, to +induce the mass of the people to revert to the notion of their own +pristine lowliness. The Otaheitan princes, on the other hand, practise +less self-denial in such imposition; or, which is perhaps more likely to +be the truth, they find their continuance in an exalted situation very +requisite to discriminate their office, which could not be inferred from +any superiority of character they possess; for, says the same account, +"the king and queen were always attended by a number of men, as +carriers, domestics, or favourites, who were ràa, or sacred, living +without families, and attending only on the royal pair; and a worse set +of men the whole island does not afford for thievery, plunder, and +impurity." If this opinion be correct, one might safely infer, that the +monarchy of Otaheite is of very old standing, or, in other words, that +the royal blood is run to the dregs. And what though it be? Cannot the +pageantry of state suffice for all the ends of good government in +Otaheite, as well as any where else? It is very foolish, to say no more +of it, to be exclaiming with the poet, + +<pre> + But is it fit, or can it bear the shock + Of rational discussion, that a man, + Compounded and made up like other men, + Of elements tumultuous, in whom lust + And folly in as ample measure meet, + As in the bosoms of the slaves he rules, + Should he a despot absolute, and boast + Himself the only freeman of his land? +</pre> + +<p>This is to overlook, entirely, the existence of certain springs in a +government, which ensure its not stopping, for a considerable time after +the corruption or even disorganization of what is apparently its head +and source of vitality. It is to imagine that a political constitution +depends for its preservation on the same identical principles which gave +it origin, and that none other can be substituted in their place, +without breaking up the whole machine. It is to forget, that after a +certain period of society, the whims and vices of the nominal chief are +of little more importance, than the movements and attitudes of a dancing +doll. "Habit," says Mr Hume, in his sensible way, "soon consolidates +what other principles of human nature had imperfectly founded; and men +once accustomed to obedience never think of departing from that path, in +which they and their ancestors have constantly trod, and to which they +are confined by so many urgent and visible motives."--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Their orders are, <i>earee rahie</i>, which answers to king; <i>earee</i>, baron; +<i>manahouni</i>, vassal; and <i>toutou</i>, villain. The earee rahie, of which +there are two in this island, one being the sovereign of each of the +peninsulas of which it consists, is treated with great respect by all +ranks, but did not appear to us to be invested with so much power as was +exercised by the earees in their own districts; nor indeed did we, as we +have before observed, once see the sovereign of Obereonoo while we were +in the island. The earees are lords of one or more of the districts into +which each of the peninsulas is divided, of which there may be about one +hundred in the whole island; and they parcel out their territories to +the manahounies, who cultivate each his part which he holds under the +baron. The lowest class, called toutous, seem to be nearly under the +same circumstances as the villains in feudal governments: These do all +the laborious work, they cultivate the land under the manahounies, who +are only nominal cultivators for the lord, they fetch wood and water, +and, under the direction of the mistress of the family, dress the +victuals; they also catch the fish. + +<p>Each of the eares keeps a kind of court, and has a great number of +attendants, chiefly the younger brothers of their own tribe; and among +these some hold particular offices, but of what nature exactly we could +not tell. One was called the <i>Eowa no l'Earee</i>, and another the <i>Whanno +no l'Earee</i>, and these were frequently dispatched to us with messages. +Of all the courts of these eares, that of Tootahah was the most +splendid, as indeed might reasonably be expected, because he +administered the government for Outou, his nephew, who was earee rahie +of Obereonoo, and lived upon his estate. The child of the baron or +earee, as well as of the sovereign or earee rahie, succeeds to the title +and honours of the father as soon as it is born: So that a baron, who +was yesterday called earee, and was approached with the ceremony of +lowering the garments, so as to uncover the upper part of the body, is +to day, if his wife was last night delivered of a child, reduced to the +rank of a private man, all marks of respect being transferred to the +child, if it is suffered to live, though the father still continues +possessor and administrator of his estate: Probably this custom has its +share, among other inducements, in forming the societies called +Arreoy.[35] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 35: What renders this opinion the more probable, is the +circumstance of these societies being generally made up of the <i>nobles</i>. +But it is certain, that the inhuman practice of child-murder is not +confined to the Arreoys. "It is the common practice," says the +missionary account, "among all ranks, to strangle infants the moment +they are born," To the same work we are indebted for some particulars +respecting the division of ranks in Otaheite, which do not quite accord +with the statement in the text. The difference is indeed very +immaterial, and would scarcely deserve notice, if any thing were not +important which seems to illustrate the history of so interesting a +people. A slight sketch of the subject, as given in that work, may +suffice for the reader's consideration. The person next in rank to the +king is his own father, if alive--it being the invariable maxim of this +government, though quite unexampled elsewhere, for a son to succeed to +the title and dignity of king, immediately on his birth, and in +prejudice of his own father, who, however, is usually, but not always, +entrusted with the regency, till the young man have ability for the +duties of his office. The chiefs of the several districts are next in +dignity; they exercise almost regal authority in their respective +territories; they are notwithstanding subject to the sovereign, and +liable to be called on by him for such assistance as circumstances may +induce him to require. Next to these, are the near relatives of the +chiefs, called to-whas and tayos. Then follows the rank of rattira or +gentlemen, whose estates are called rahoe. These two ranks have the +power of laying a prohibition on their respective lands, or on +particular sorts of provision, for the purpose of accumulating articles +for their feasts, or after any great consumption of the necessaries of +life. The lowest class of society after the rattira, is the manahoune, +which bears a resemblance to our cottagers. They cultivate the lands, +and are in a state of vassalage, but they are not compelled to constant +service, and they are permitted both to change masters, and to migrate +to other districts. The servants in any class are called <i>toutou</i>; such +as wait on the women, <i>tuti</i>, an occupation into which, it seems, for +reasons best known to themselves, young men of the first families not +unfrequently insinuate, though by so doing they are excluded from the +solemnities of religion. A detestable set of men named <i>mahoos</i>, and +bearing a resemblance to the Catamites of old, deserve not to be +mentioned in the list of the ranks in this society. Birth has several +distinctions in its favour among these people. Thus, a chief is always a +chief, notwithstanding his demerits or misdemeanours; and, on the +contrary, nothing can raise a common man above the station of a towha or +rattira. The king allows perfect freedom of intercourse and communion +with his subjects, treating them with the greatest freedom, and, indeed, +scarcely preserving any appearance of distinction from them. His +household is often changed, as no one serves him longer than he likes, +and it is not usual to engage for any stated time, or for any wages. +With these people it is not a reproach to be poor; but they freely +express their contempt of those who are affluent, and at the same time +covetous. The dread of being thus despised is so great and prevalent +among them, that a man would give the clothes off his body, rather than +be called in their language peere peere, <i>i.e.</i> stingy. The rights of +<i>property</i> are sacredly respected, and though there be no records or +writing in the island, are minutely ascertained, and carefully preserved +by tradition.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>If a general attack happens to be made upon the island, every district +under the command of an earee, is obliged to furnish its proportion of +soldiers for the common defence. The number furnished by the principal +districts, which Tupia recollected, when added together, amounted, as I +have observed before, to six thousand six hundred and eighty. + +<p>Upon such occasions, the united force of the whole island is commanded +in chief by the earee rahie. Private differences between two earees are +decided by their own people, without at all disturbing the general +tranquillity. + +<p>Their weapons are slings, which they use with great dexterity, pikes +headed with the stings of sting-rays, and clubs, of about six or seven +feet long, made of a very hard heavy wood. Thus armed, they are said to +fight with great obstinacy, which is the more likely to be true, as it +is certain that they give no quarter to either man, woman, or child, who +is so unfortunate as to fall into their hands during the battle, or for +some hours afterwards, till their passion, which is always violent, +though not lasting, has subsided. + +<p>The earee rahie of Obereonoo, while we were here, was in perfect amity +with the earee rahie of Tiarreboo, the other peninsula, though he took +to himself the title of king of the whole island: This, however, +produced no more jealousy in the other sovereign, than the title of King +of France, assumed by our sovereign, did in his most Christian Majesty. + +<p>In a government so rude, it cannot be expected that distributive justice +should be regularly administered, and indeed, where there is so little +opposition of interest, in consequence of the facility with which every +appetite and passion is gratified, there can be but few crimes.[36] +There is nothing like money, the common medium by which every want and +every wish is supposed to be gratified by those who do not possess it; +there is no apparently permanent good which either fraud or force can +unlawfully obtain; and when all the crimes that are committed by the +inhabitants of civilized countries, to get money, are set out of the +account, not many will remain: Add to this, that where the commerce with +women is restrained by no law, men will seldom be under any temptation +to commit adultery, especially as one woman is always less preferred to +another, where they are less distinguished by personal decorations, and +the adventitious circumstances which are produced by the varieties of +art, and the refinements of sentiment. That they are thieves is true; +but as among these people no man can be much injured or benefited by +theft, it is not necessary to restrain it by such punishments, as in +other countries are absolutely necessary to the very existence of civil +society. Tupia, however, tells us, that adultery is sometimes committed +as well as theft. In all cases where an injury has been committed, the +punishment of the offender lies with the sufferer: Adultery, if the +parties are caught in the fact, is sometimes punished with death in the +first ardour of resentment; but without circumstances of immediate +provocation, the female sinner seldom suffers more than a beating. As +punishment, however, is enforced by no law, nor taken into the hand of +any magistrate, it is not often inflicted, except the injured party is +the strongest; though the chiefs do sometimes punish their immediate +dependants for faults committed against each other, and even the +dependants of others, if they are accused of any offence committed in +their district.[37] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 36: It is impossible not to censure so gross a blunder, if +blunder that may be called, which is alike abhorrent to the truth of +facts and to the validity of all good principle. The language indeed is +so vague, as to admit something like a defence, under the shadow of a +definition which shall restrict crimes to gross violations of public and +private right; but even this would be faulty, as implying what is not +the case, that the facility of indulgence, and of course the frequency, +does not enhance the strength and efficacy of those passions and +appetites, which, if not moderated, certainly lead to outrageous +conduct. Habits of indulgence, it is no doubt certain, imply a softening +down of the violence of character; and hence, in a <i>peculiar sense</i>, it +may be said, that the ages of refinement and luxury are the most happy +and virtuous, an assertion which Mr Hume has spent no small labour in +maintaining: But, on the other hand, it is clear, that violence is more +easily guarded against, in almost any state of society, than the +artifices of dishonesty and the pollution of licentiousness; and, +besides, it never will be found that any fecundity of nature can keep +pace, with the accelerating increase of vicious desires and +propensities, consequent on indulgence. Restraint from the operation of +fear, and better still when practicable, the implantation and growth of +moral principle and right feeling, are vastly better preservatives +against crimes of every sort, than all the facilities of sensual +gratification which Otaheite or any other country can afford.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 37: The nature of the laws of a country is perhaps the best +test of its civilization; as the condition and treatment of the women +are of its refinement in sentiment and feeling. In Otaheite, every man +seems to be his own lawyer; because in fact, the whole society is held +together by principles quite natural to a state of ease and enjoyment. +Now as women form a principal ingredient in this state of society, and +as, at the same time, property is considered heritable, we may readily +enough infer what will be the conduct of a dishonoured husband among +those islanders, when we know what his rank and circumstances are. The +poor man will think no real injury done him, but may resent the +partiality shewn to another, by a conduct certainly not calculated to +procure affection for himself, coolness or a drubbing. The rich, on the +other hand, in addition to the feeling of wounded pride, will dread the +spuriousness of his offspring, and so storm most lustily on both male +and female sinner, till revenge be fully gratified. The difference of +opinion about this matter, in different nations and ages, is immense and +embarrassing. Some people, we know, had their wives in common, as +related of our own ancestors by Cæsar, and of the Massagetæ by +Herodotus. The Greeks and Romans thought it more convenient to lend them +out occasionally to a friend or acquaintance, in which they seem to +have imitated the Spartans. In certain countries, the offer of a wife is +a common civility to strangers, who cannot be expected to carry their +own about with them constantly. The Indians of North Carolina, we are +told by Lawson, never punish a woman for adultery, because, say they, +she is a weakly creature, and easily drawn away by the man's persuasion. +That people, however, take good care to recover damages from the man, in +which one might think the inhabitants of Britain now-a-days would +conceive they acted wisely, and might only envy them the power they +allow to the husband of assessing the offender, and levying the fine; +for, says Lawson, "he that strives to evade such satisfaction as the +husband demands lives daily in danger of his life; yet, when discharged, +all animosity is laid aside, and the cuckold is very well pleased with +his bargain, whilst the rival is laughed at by the whole nation, for +carrying on his intrigue with no better conduct, than to be discovered, +and pay so dear for his pleasure." In this, however, <i>we</i> differ; our +cuckolds are laughed at as fools, which is monstrously absurd, whilst +the transgressor is denominated a <i>fine fellow</i>, no less monstrously +unjust. How far the laws of England may be accessary to such glaring +perversity of sentiment, it is difficult to say; but if one were +disposed to fear with Mr Christian, (see his notes on Blackstone, lib. +1, ch. 16.) "that there is little reason to pay a compliment to them for +their respect and favour to the female sex," he might not hesitate to +suspect some radical vice in their constitution, which could so far +debase female honour as to leave it problematical, whether or not the +violaters of it, in any sense or degree, were capable of any thing but +infamy. 'Twere too puritanical, perhaps, to join Cowper in his ironical +commendation;-- + +<pre> + "But now, yes, now, + We are become so candid and so fair, + So liberal in construction, and so rich + In Christian charity (good-natured age!) + That they are safe, sinners of either sex, + Transgress what laws they may." +</pre> + +<p>But surely it is desirable, that a nation professing supreme regard to a +divine revelation, should shew something of its abhorrence, at a crime +which strikes at the root of all social comfort and happiness.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Having now given the best description that I can of the island in its +present state, and of the people, with their customs and manners, +language and arts, I shall only add a few general observations, which +may be of use to future navigators, if any of the ships of Great Britain +should receive orders to visit it. As it produces nothing that appears +to be convertible into an article of trade, and can be used only by +affording refreshments to shipping in their passage through these seas, +it might be made to answer this purpose in a much greater degree, by +transporting thither sheep, goats, and horned cattle, with European +garden stuff, and other useful vegetables, which there is the greatest +reason to suppose will flourish in so fine a climate, and so rich a +soil. + +<p>Though this and the neighbouring islands lie within the tropic of +Capricorn, yet the heat is not troublesome, nor did the winds blow +constantly from the east. We had frequently a fresh gale from the S.W. +for two or three days, and sometimes, though very seldom, from the N.W. +Tupia reported, that south-westerly winds prevail in October, November, +and December, and we have no doubt of the fact. When the winds are +variable, they are always accompanied by a swell from the S.W. or +W.S.W.; there is also a swell from the same points when it is calm, and +the atmosphere loaded with clouds, which is a sure indication that the +winds are variable, or westerly out at sea, for with the settled +trade-wind the weather is clear. + +<p>The meeting with westerly winds, within the general limits of the +eastern trade, has induced some navigators to suppose that they were +near some large tract of land, of which, however, I think they are no +indication. + +<p>It has been found, both by us and the Dolphin, that the trade-wind, in +these parts, does not extend farther to the south than twenty degrees, +beyond which, we generally found a gale from the westward; and it is +reasonable to suppose, that when these winds blow strong, they will +drive back the easterly wind, and consequently encroach upon the limits +within which they constantly blow, and thus necessarily produce variable +winds, as either happens to prevail, and a south-westerly swell. This +supposition is the more probable, as it is well known that the +trade-winds blow but faintly for some distance within their limits, and +therefore may be more easily stopped or repelled by a wind in the +contrary direction: It is also well known, that the limits of the +trade-winds vary not only at different seasons of the year, but +sometimes at the same season, in different years. + +<p>There is therefore no reason to suppose that south-westerly winds, +within these limits, are caused by the vicinity of large tracts of land, +especially as they are always accompanied with a large swell, in the +same direction in which they blow; and we find a much greater surf +beating upon the shores of the south-west side of the islands that are +situated just within the limits of the trade-wind, than upon any other +part of them. + +<p>The tides about these islands are perhaps as inconsiderable as in any +part of the world. A south or S. by W. moon makes high water in the bay +of Matavai at Otaheite; but the water very seldom rises perpendicularly +above ten or twelve inches. + +<p>The variation of the compass I found to be 4° 46' easterly, this being +the result of a great number of trials made with four of Dr Knight's +needles, adapted to azimuth compasses. These compasses I thought the +best that could be procured, yet when applied to the meridian line, I +found them to differ not only one from another, sometimes a degree and a +half, but the same needle, half a degree from itself in different trials +made on the same day; and I do not remember that I have ever found two +needles which exactly agreed at the same time and place, though I have +often found the same needle agree with itself, in several trials made +one after the other. This imperfection of the needle, however, is of no +consequence to navigation, as the variation can always be found to a +degree of accuracy, more than sufficient for all nautical purposes. + +<p>SECTION XX. + +<p><i>A Description of several other Islands in the Neighbourhood of +Otaheite, with various Incidents; a dramatic Entertainment; and many +Particulars relative to the Customs and Manners of the Inhabitants</i>.[38] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 38: Several additional particulars respecting the islands here +spoken of, are given on the authority of the missionary account, and +other works, to which it is unnecessary to refer particularly.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>After parting with our friends, we made an easy sail, with gentle +breezes and clear weather, and were informed by Tupia, that four of the +neighbouring islands, which he distinguished by the names of <i>Huaheine, +Ulietea, Otaha,</i> and <i>Bolabola</i> lay at the distance of between one and +two days sail from Otaheite; and that hogs, fowls, and other +refreshments, with which we had of late been but sparingly supplied, +were there to be procured in great plenty; but having discovered from +the hills of Otaheite, an island lying to the northward, which he called +<i>Tethuroa</i>, I determined first to stand that way, to take a nearer view +of it. It lies N. 1/2 W. distant eight leagues from the northern +extremity of Otaheite, upon which we had observed the transit, and to +which we had, for that reason, given the name of <i>Point Venus</i>. We found +it to be a small low island, and were told by Tupia, that it had no +settled inhabitants, but was occasionally visited by the inhabitants of +Otaheite, who sometimes went thither for a few days to fish; we +therefore determined to spend no more time in a farther examination of +it, but to go in search of Huaheine and Ulietea, which he described to +be well peopled, and as large as Otaheite.[39] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 39: Tethuroa consists of several low islets, enclosed in a +reef ten leagues round, and inaccessible to large canoes. The people are +subject to the sovereign of Otaheite, and are in general members of the +wandering society of the arreoyes, who frequent these spots for purposes +of amusement and luxury. No bread-fruit is allowed to be planted on +these islets, in order that the resident inhabitants, who are few in +number, may be obliged to come with their fish, which is their principal +commodity, to Oparre, where it may be had in exchange. Cocoa-nuts, +however, abound, as they thrive most in low places. The passage to these +islets is represented as difficult and dangerous, but this does not +deter the people from assembling on them in great numbers. So many as a +hundred canoes have been seen occasionally around this spot.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At six o'clock in the morning of the 14th, the westermost part of +<i>Eimeo</i>, or York island, bore S.E. 1/2 S. and the body of Otaheite E. +1/2 S. At noon, the body of York Island bore E. by S 1/2 S.; and +Port-Royal bay, at Otaheite, S. 70° 45' E. distant 61 miles; and an +island which we took to be Saunders's Island, called by the natives +<i>Tapoamanao</i>, bore S.S.W. We also saw land bearing N.W. 1/2 W. which +Tupia said was Huaheine.[40] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 40: Eimeo, or, as the natives usually call it, Morea, is the +nearest to Otaheite, its distance from the western coast being only +about four leagues.--It is reckoned ten miles long, from north to south, +and half as much in breadth. It has several harbours, and is intersected +by considerable valleys of a fertile appearance. The natives, who are at +present dependent on Otaheite, are said to be as much addicted to +thieving as those of that island. The women are inferior in attractions +to any in their neighbourhood. The harbour of Taloo on the north coast +is very eligible for vessels--it is situate in 17° 30' latitude, and +150° west longitude. This island is always seen by persons who touch at +Otaheite. Tapoamanao, a little to the westward of Eimeo, has perhaps +never been landed on by Europeans and is little known.--It is not above +six miles long, but seems fertile, and to abound especially with +cocoa-nuts. There are not many habitations to be seen on it. The +government is said to depend on Huaheine, which is distant from it about +fourteen leagues.--E.]</blockquote> + +On the 15th, it was hazy, with light breezes and calms succeeding each +other, so that we could see no land, and made but little way. Our +Indian, Tupia, often prayed for a wind to his god Tane, and as often +boasted of his success, which indeed he took a very effectual method to +secure, for he never began his address to Tane, till he saw a breeze so +near that he knew it must reach the ship before his oraison was well +over. + +<p>On the 16th, we had a gentle breeze; and in the morning about eight +o'clock, being close in with the north-west part of the Island Huaheine, +we sounded, but had no bottom with 80 fathom. Some canoes very soon came +off, but the people seemed afraid, and kept at a distance till they +discovered Tupia, and then they ventured nearer. In one of the canoes +that came up to the ship's side, was the king of the island and his +wife. Upon assurances of friendship, frequently and earnestly repeated, +their majesties and some others came on board. At first they were struck +with astonishment, and wondered at every thing that was shewn them; yet +they made no enquiries, and seeming to be satisfied with what was +offered to their notice, they made no search after other objects of +curiosity, with which it was natural to suppose a building of such +novelty and magnitude as the ship must abound. After some time, they +became more familiar. I was given to understand, that the name of the +king was <i>Oree</i>, and he proposed, as a mark of amity, that we should +exchange names. To this I readily consented; and he was Cookee, for so +he pronounced my name, and I was Oree, for the rest of the time we were +together. We found these people to be very nearly the same with those of +Otaheite, in person, dress, language, and every other circumstance, +except, if Tupia might be believed, that they would not steal. + +<p>Soon after dinner, we came to an anchor, in a small but excellent +harbour on the west side of the island, which the natives call +<i>Owharre</i>, in eighteen fathom water, clear ground, and secure from all +winds. I went immediately ashore, accompanied by Mr Banks, Dr Solander, +Mr Monkhouse, Tupia, King Cookee, and some other of the natives who had +been on board ever since the morning. The moment we landed, Tupia +stripped himself as low as the waist, and desired Mr Monkhouse to do the +same: He then sat down before a great number of the natives, who were +collected together in a large house or shed; for here, as well as at +Otaheite, a house consists only of a roof supported upon poles; the rest +of us, by his desire, standing behind. He then began a speech or prayer, +which lasted about a quarter of an hour, the king, who stood over +against him, every now and then answering in what appeared to be set +responses. In the course of this harangue he delivered at different +times two handkerchiefs, a black silk neckcloth, some beads, two small +bunches of feathers, and some plantains, as presents to their Eatua, or +God. In return for these, he received for our Eatua, a hog, some young +plantains, and two small bunches of feathers, which he ordered to be +carried on board the ship. After these ceremonies, which we supposed to +be the ratification of a treaty between us, every one was dismissed to +go whither he pleased; and Tupia immediately repaired to offer his +oblations at one of the Morais. + +<p>The next morning, we went on shore again, and walked up the hills, where +the productions were exactly the same as those of Otaheite, except that +the rocks and clay appeared to be more burnt. The houses were neat, and +the boat-houses remarkably large; one that we measured was fifty paces +long, ten broad, and twenty-four feet high; the whole formed a pointed +arch, like those of our old cathedrals, which was supported on one side +by twenty-six, and on the other by thirty pillars, or rather posts, +about two feet high, and one thick, upon most of which were rudely +carved the heads of men, and several fanciful devices, not altogether +unlike those which we sometimes see printed from wooden blocks, at the +beginning and end of old books. The plains, or flat part of the country, +abounded in bread-fruit, and cocoa-nut trees; in some places, however, +there were salt swamps and lagoons, which would produce neither. + +<p>We went again a-shore on the 18th, and would have taken the advantage of +Tupia's company, in our perambulation; but he was too much engaged with +his friends. We took, however, his boy, whose name was <i>Tayeto</i>, and Mr +Banks went to take a farther view of what had much engaged his attention +before; it was a kind of chest or ark, the lid of which was nicely sewed +on, and thatched very neatly with palm-nut leaves: It was fixed upon two +poles, and supported on little arches of wood, very neatly carved; the +use of the poles seemed to be to remove it from place to place, in the +manner of our sedan chairs: In one end of it was a square hole, in the +middle of which was a ring touching the sides, and leaving the angles +open, so as to form a round hole within a square one. The first time Mr +Banks saw this coffer, the aperture at the end was stopped with a piece +of cloth, which, lest he should give offence, he left untouched; +probably there was then something within, but now the cloth was taken +away, and, upon looking into it, it was found empty. The general +resemblance between this repository and the ark of the Lord among the +Jews is remarkable; but it is still more remarkable, that upon enquiring +of the boy what it was called, he said, <i>Ewharre no Eatua</i>, the <i>house +of the God</i>: He could however give no account of its signification or +use.[41] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 41: Mr Parkhurst, in his Hebrew Lexicon, takes notice of this +circumstance, and admits the resemblance. But in fact, there is no need +to have recourse to the Jews in particular, for something similar to +what is here mentioned. The Egyptians, according to Herodotus, Euter. +63, kept their god in a case or box, and at certain times carried it +about or drew it on a four-wheeled carriage. Diodorus Siculus says the +same thing of them, in his first book. Both these writers, it is +remarkable, use the same word for this containing vehicle; it is [Greek] +or [Greek], the temple, shrine, or sacred dwelling. The reader may have +heard of the horrid god at Juggernaut, who is drawn on a wheeled +carriage, as described in such dreadful terms by Dr Buchanan, in the +account of his travels and researches in India. The Israelites, it is +very probable from a passage in the prophet Amos, v. 26, copied the +example of some of their idolatrous neighbours, in <i>bearing</i> a temple of +Moloch and Chiun. See Raphelius on Acts vii. 43. where mention is made +of the same offence against the positive commands of God. It may be +distinctly proved, that the gods and goddesses of the heathens were +accustomed to have their <i>tabernacula</i> and <i>fana</i>, and that some of them +were <i>portable</i>. Thus the Greeks had their [Greek], and the Romans their +<i>thensa</i>. Virgil, we see in the Eneid, speaks of the Errantesque deos, +agitataque numina Trojæ, as a great misfortune. It would be idle to +enter here on the question discussed by different men of learning, +whether the practice of having temples or places of abode for their gods +originated among the Gentiles, and was thence adopted by way of +condescension into the Mosaic economy; or was borrowed by the Gentiles +from some early revelation corrupted, which had for its object the +holding out the great promise, that God himself would one day tabernacle +among men upon the earth. This latter opinion is the more probable one +by a great deal. It is not a little like the sentiment so strongly +maintained by some excellent authors, and certainly in a high degree +countenanced by scripture, that the sacrifices amongst the heathens were +derived from some early but vitiated revelation of that one great +sacrifice and atonement, which God himself had provided in behalf of his +guilty creatures. For this opinion, the candid reader will not fail to +perceive the strongest evidence produced, in a most important recent +publication, Dr Magee's Discourses, &c. on the Atonement.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We had commenced a kind of trade with the natives, but it went on +slowly; for when any thing was offered, not one of them would take it +upon his own judgment, but collected the opinions of twenty or thirty +people, which could not be done without great loss of time. We got, +however, eleven pigs, and determined to try for more the next day. + +<p>The next day, therefore, we brought out some hatchets, for which we +hoped we should have had no occasion, upon an island which no European +had ever visited before. These procured us three very large hogs; and as +we proposed to sail in the afternoon, King Oree and several others came +on board to take their leave. To the King I gave a small plate of +pewter, on which was stamped this inscription, "His Britannic Majesty's +ship, Endeavour, Lieutenant Cook Commander, 16th July, 1769, Huaheine." +I gave him also some medals or counters, resembling the coin of +England, struck in the year 1761, with some other presents; and he +promised that with none of these, particularly the plate, he would ever +part. I thought it as lasting a testimony of our having first discovered +this island, as any we could leave behind; and having dismissed our +visitors well satisfied, and in great good humour, we set sail, about +half an hour after two in the afternoon. + +<p>The island of Huaheine, or Huahene, is situated in the latitude of 16° +48' S. and longitude 150° 52' W. from Greenwich: It is distant from +Otaheite about thirty-one leagues, in the direction of N. 58 W. and is +about seven leagues in compass. Its surface is hilly and uneven, and it +has a safe and commodious harbour. The harbour, which is called by the +natives <i>Owalle</i>, or <i>Owharre</i>, lies on the west side, under the +northernmost high land, and within the north end of the reef, which lies +along that side of the island; there are two inlets or openings, by +which it may be entered, through the reef, about a mile and a half +distant from each other; the southermost is the widest, and on the south +side of it lies a very small sandy island. + +<p>Huaheine seems to be a month forwarder in its productions than Otaheite, +as we found the cocoa-nuts full of kernel, and some of the new +bread-fruit fit to eat. Of the cocoa-nuts the inhabitants make a food +which they call <i>Poe</i>, by mixing them with yams; they scrape both fine, +and having incorporated the powder, they put it into a wooden trough, +with a number of hot stones, by which an oily kind of hasty-pudding is +made, that our people relished very well, especially when it was fryed. +Mr Banks found not more than eleven or twelve new plants; but he +observed some insects, and a species of scorpion which he had not seen +before. + +<p>The inhabitants seem to be larger made, and more stout, than those of +Otaheite. Mr Banks measured one of the men, and found him to be six feet +three inches and a half high; yet they are so lazy, that he could not +persuade any of them to go up the hills with him: They said, if they +were to attempt it, the fatigue would kill them. The women were very +fair, more so than those of Otaheite; and in general, we thought them +more handsome, though none that were equal to some individuals. Both +sexes seemed to be less timid, and less curious: It has been observed, +that they made no enquiries on board the ship; and when we fired a gun, +they were frightened indeed, but they did not fall down, as our friends +at Otaheite constantly did when we first came among them.. For this +difference, however, we can easily account upon other principles; the +people at Huaheine had not seen the Dolphin, those at Otaheite had. In +one, the report of a gun was connected with the idea of instant +destruction; to the other, there was nothing dreadful in it but the +appearance and the sound, as they had never experienced its power of +dispensing death. + +<p>While we were on shore, we found that Tupia had commended them beyond +their merit, when he said that they would not steal; for one of them was +detected in the fact. But when he was seized by the hair, the rest, +instead of running away, as the people at Otaheite would have done, +gathered round, and enquired what provocation had been given: But this +also may be accounted for without giving them credit for superior +courage; they had no experience of the consequence of European +resentment, which the people at Otaheite had in many instances purchased +with life. It must, however, be acknowledged, to their honour, that when +they understood what had happened, they showed strong signs of +disapprobation, and prescribed a good beating for the thief, which was +immediately administered.[42] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 42: Huaheine or Aheine (a word which signifies woman) is the +eastermost of the Society Isles. It bears some resemblance to Otaheite, +being divided into two peninsulas by an isthmus of low land, having a +stripe of fertile soil next the shore, from which hills of a volcanic +origin arise towards the centre. Since Capt. Cook's time, this island +has been visited by Lieut. Watts, Capt. Bligh, and Capt. Edwards, but +none of these officers has afforded any satisfactory information +respecting its government and history. In the year 1791, it is said to +have acknowledged the sovereignty of Otaheite.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We now made sail for the island of <i>Ulietea</i>, which lies S.W. by W. +distant seven or eight leagues from Huaheine, and at half an hour after +six in the evening we were within three leagues of the shore, on the +eastern side. We stood off and on all night, and when the day broke the +next morning, we stood in for the shore: We soon after discovered an +opening in the reef which lies before the island, within which Tupia +told us there was a good harbour. I did not, however, implicitly take +his word; but sent the master out in the pinnace to examine it: He soon +made the signal for the ship to follow; we accordingly stood in, and +anchored in two-and-twenty fathom, with soft ground. + +<p>The natives soon came off to us in two canoes, each of which brought a +woman and a pig. The woman we supposed was a mark of confidence, and the +pig was a present; we received both with proper acknowledgments, and +complimented each of the ladies with a spike-nail and some beads, much +to their satisfaction. We were told by Tupia, who had always expressed +much fear of the men of Bolabola, that they had made a conquest of this +island; and that, if we remained here, they would certainly come down +to-morrow, and fight us. We determined, therefore, to go on shore +without delay, while the day was our own. + +<p>I landed in company with Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and the other gentleman, +Tupia being also of the party. He introduced us by repeating the +ceremonies which he had performed at Huaheine, after which I hoisted an +English jack, and took possession of this and the three neighbouring +islands, Huaheine, Otaha, and Bolabola, which were all in sight, in the +name of his Britannic majesty. After this, we took a walk to a great +morai, called <i>Tapodeboatea</i>. We found it very different from those of +Otaheite; for it consisted only of four walls, about eight feet high, of +coral stones, some of which were of an immense size, inclosing an area +of about five-and-twenty yards square, which was filled up with smaller +stones: Upon the top of it many planks were set up an end, which were +carved in their whole length: At a little distance we found an altar, or +Ewhatta, upon which lay the last oblation or sacrifice, a hog of about +eighty pounds weight, which had been offered whole, and very nicely +roasted. Here were also four or five Ewharre no-Eatua, or houses of God, +to which carriage-poles were fitted, like that which we had seen at +Huaheine. One of these Mr Banks examined by putting his hand into it, +and found a parcel about five feet long and one thick, wrapped up in +matts: He broke a way through several of these matts with his fingers, +but at length came to one which was made of the fibres of the cocoa-nut, +so firmly plaited together that he found it impossible to tear it, and +therefore was forced to desist; especially as he perceived, that what he +had done already gave great offence to our new friends. From hence we +went to a long house, not far distant, where among rolls of cloth, and +several other things, we saw the model of a canoe, about three feet +long, to which were tied eight human jaw-bones: We had already learnt +that these, like scalps among the Indians of North America, were +trophies of war. Tupia affirmed that they were the jaw-bones of the +natives of this island; if so, they might have been hung up, with the +model of a canoe, as a symbol of invasion, by the warriors of Bolabola, +as a memorial of their conquest. + +<p>Night now came on apace, but Mr Banks and Dr Solander continued their +walk along the shore, and at a little distance saw another +Ewharre-no-Eatua, and a tree of the fig kind, the same as that which Mr +Green had seen at Otaheite, in great perfection, the trunk, or rather +congeries of the roots of which, was forty-two paces in circumference. + +<p>On the 21st, having dispatched the master in the long-boat to examine +the coast of the south part of the island, and one of the mates in the +yawl, to sound the harbour where the ship lay, I went myself in the +pinnace, to survey that part of the island which lies to the north. Mr +Banks and the gentlemen were again on shore, trading with the natives, +and examining the products and curiosities of the country; they saw +nothing, however, worthy notice, but some more jaw-bones, of which they +made no doubt but that the account they had heard was true. + +<p>On the 22d and 23d, having strong gales and hazy weather, I did not +think it safe to put to sea; but on the 24th, though the wind was still +variable, I got under sail, and plied to the northward within the reef, +with a view to go out at a wider opening than that by which I had +entered; in doing this, however, I was unexpectedly in the most imminent +danger of striking on the rock: The master, whom I had ordered to keep +continually sounding in the chains, suddenly called out, "Two fathom." +This alarmed me, for though I knew the ship drew at least fourteen feet, +and that therefore it was impossible such a shoal should be under her +keel, yet the master was either mistaken, or she went along the edge of +a coral rock, many of which, in the neighbourhood of these islands, are +as steep as a wall. + +<p>This harbour, or bay, is called by the natives <i>Oopoa,</i> and taken in its +greatest extent, it is capable of holding any number of shipping. It +extends almost the whole length of the east side of the island, and is +defended from the sea by a reef of coral rocks: The southermost opening +in this reef, or channel, into the harbour, by which we entered, is +little more than a cable's length wide; it lies off the eastermost point +of the island, and may be known by another small woody island, which +lies a little to the south-east of it, called by the people here +<i>Oatara</i>. Between three and four miles north-west from this island lie +two other islets, in the same direction as the reef, of which they are a +part, called <i>Opururu</i> and <i>Tamou</i>; between these lies the other +channel into the harbour, through which I went out, and which is a full +quarter of a mile wide. Still farther to the north-west are some other +small islands, near which I am told there is another small channel into +the harbour; but this I know only by report. + +<p>The principal refreshments that are to be procured at this part of the +island are, plantains, cocoa-nuts, yams, hogs, and fowls; the hogs and +fowls, however, are scarce; and the country, where we saw it, is neither +so populous, nor so rich in produce, as Otaheite, or even Huaheine. Wood +and water may also be procured here; but the water cannot conveniently +be got at.[43] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 43: Ulietea, or Reiadea, is nearly twice the size of Huaheine, +and bears a still more striking resemblance to Otaheite. Its importance +was once very great among these islands, but this and its population +have much declined, in consequence of an unsuccessful war it carried on +with the people of Bolabola, aided by those of Otaha. The distressed +inhabitants fled in great numbers to Otaheite, and having obtained some +reinforcement, ventured to attack their conquerors in Huaheine, where +they had also carried their victorious arms. They succeeded in this +attack, which was conducted with much caution and prudence; but they +were never able to recover possession of their own island. The people of +Otaha were soon afterwards subdued by their own allies of Bolabola, by +much the most formidable and warlike of all these people, and said to be +descended from persons who had been banished for their crimes from the +neighbouring islands. Bolabola we shall find was not landed on by Capt. +Cook, in consequence of his being on that side of it, where there is no +harbour. It was touched at by him in a boat when he last visited this +cluster, and Capt. Edwards went ashore there in 1791. It is of a rude, +barren appearance, especially on the eastern side, and is easily known +by its lofty double-peaked mountain. The warriors of Bolabola are +differently punctured from all the other people in these islands, and +are the terror of the whole neighbourhood. Otaha, which is about four +leagues to the south-west of Bolabola, and is subject to it, though +superior in size, scarcely merits any notice additional to the text. It +is neither fertile nor populous, and being but about two miles from +Ulietea, presents no inducements to Europeans. Capt. Edwards examined it +in 1791. A material advantage it has in two very good harbours, as will +soon be mentioned.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We were now again at sea, without having received any interruption from +the hostile inhabitants of Bolabola, whom, notwithstanding the fears of +Tupia, we intended to visit. At four o'clock in the afternoon of the +25th, we were within a league of Otaha, which bore N. 77° W. To the +northward of the south end of that island, on the east side of it, and +something more than a mile from the shore, lie two small islands, called +<i>Toahoutu</i> and <i>Whennuia</i>; between which Tupia says, there is a channel +into a very good harbour, which lies within the reef, and appearances +confirmed his report. + +<p>As I discovered a broad channel between Otaha and Bolabola, I determined +rather to go through it, than run to the northward of all; but the wind +being right a-head, I got no ground. + +<p>Between five and six in the evening of the 26th, as I was standing to +the northward, I discovered a small low island, lying N. by W. or N.N.W. +distant four or five leagues from Bolabola. We were told by Tupia that +the name of this island is <i>Tubai</i>; that it produces nothing but +cocoa-nuts, and is inhabited only by three families; though it is +visited by the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands, who resort +thither to catch fish, with which the coast abounds.[44] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 44: It is singular that the language of the few people that +inhabit the cluster of islets, known under the name of Tubai or Toobae, +is unintelligible to the natives of the other Society Islands. The +supposition hence arises, that they are of a different race; but no +satisfactory information can be given respecting them. The island is +said to abound in turtle, and is in consequence often visited by the +people of other isles.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 27th, about noon, the peak of Bolabola bore N. 25° W. and the +north end of Otaha, N. 80° W. distant three leagues. The wind continued +contrary all this day and the night following. On the 28th, at six in +the morning, we were near the entrance of the harbour on the east side +of <i>Otaha</i>, which has been just mentioned; and finding that it might be +examined without losing time, I sent away the master in the long-boat, +with orders to sound it; and, if the wind did not shift in our favour, +to land upon the island, and traffic with the natives for such +refreshments as were to be had. In this boat went Mr Banks and Dr +Solander, who landed upon the island, and before night purchased three +hogs, twenty-one fowls, and as many yams and plantains as the boat would +hold. Plantains we thought a more useful refreshment even than pork; for +they were boiled and served to the ship's company as bread, and were now +the more acceptable as our bread was so full of vermin, that +notwithstanding all possible care, we had sometimes twenty of them in +our mouths at a time, every one of which tasted as hot as mustard. The +island seemed to be more barren than Ulietea, but the produce was of the +same kind. The people also exactly resembled those that we had seen at +the other islands; they were not numerous, but they flocked about the +boat wherever she went from all quarters, bringing with them whatever +they had to sell. They paid the strangers, of whom they had received an +account from Tupia, the same compliment which they used towards their +own kings, uncovering their shoulders, and wrapping their garments round +their breasts; and were so solicitous to prevent its being neglected by +any of their people, that a man was sent with them, who called out to +every one they met, telling him what they were, and what he was to do. + +<p>In the mean time, I kept plying off and on, waiting for the boat's +return; at half an hour after five, not seeing any, thing of her, I +fired a gun, and after it was dark hoisted a light; at half an hour +after eight, we heard the report of a musket, which we answered with a +gun, and soon after the boat came on board. The master reported, that +the harbour was safe and commodious, with good anchorage from +twenty-five to sixteen fathom water, clear ground. + +<p>As soon as the boat was hoisted in, I made sail to the northward, and at +eight o'clock in the morning of the 29th, we were close under the Peak +of Bolabola, which was high, rude, and craggy. As the island was +altogether inaccessible in this part, and we found it impossible to +weather it, we tacked and stood off, then tacked again, and after many +trips did not weather the south end of it till twelve o'clock at night. +At eight o'clock the next morning, we discovered an island, which bore +from us N. 63° W. distant about eight leagues; at the same time the Peak +of Bolabola bore N. 1/2 E. distant three or four leagues. This island +Tupia called <i>Maurua</i>, and said that it was small, wholly surrounded by +a reef, and without any harbour for shipping; but inhabited, and bearing +the same produce as the neighbouring islands: The middle of it rises in +a high round hill, that may be seen at the distance of ten leagues.[45] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 45: The people of Otaheite are said to procure pearls from +this island. It is, however, subject to Bolabola, as the reader will +soon see mentioned.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>When we were off Bolabola, we saw but few people on the shore, and were +told by Tupia that many of the inhabitants were gone to Ulietea. In the +afternoon we found ourselves nearly the length of the south end of +Ulietea, and to windward of some harbours that lay on the west side of +this island. Into one of these harbours, though we had before been +ashore on the other side of the island, I intended to put, in order to +stop a leak which we had sprung in the powder-room, and to take in more +ballast, as I found the ship too light to carry sail upon a wind. As the +wind was right against us, we plied off one of the harbours, and about +three o'clock in the afternoon on the 1st of August, we came to an +anchor in the entrance of the channel leading into it in fourteen fathom +water, being prevented from working in, by a tide which set very strong +out. We then carried out the kedge-anchor, in order to warp into the +harbour; but when this was done, we could not trip the bower-anchor with +all the purchase we could make; we were therefore obliged to lie still +all night, and in the morning, when the tide turned, the ship going over +the anchor, it tripped of itself, and we warped the ship into a proper +birth with ease, and moored in twenty-eight fathom, with a sandy bottom. +While this was doing, many of the natives came off to us with hogs, +fowls, and plantains, which they parted with at an easy rate. + +<p>When the ship was secured, I went on shore to look for a proper place to +get ballast and water, both which I found in a very convenient +situation. + +<p>This day Mr Banks and Dr Solander spent on shore very much to their +satisfaction; every body seemed to fear and respect them, placing in +them at the same time the utmost confidence, behaving as if conscious +that they possessed the power of doing them mischief, without any +propensity to make use of it. Men, women, and children crowded round +them, and followed them wherever they went; but none of them were guilty +of the least incivility: On the contrary, whenever there happened to be +dirt or water in the way, the men vied with each other to carry them +over on their backs. They were conducted to the houses of the principal +people, and were received in a manner altogether new: The people, who +followed them while they were in their way, rushed forward as soon as +they came to a house, and went hastily in before them, leaving however a +lane sufficiently wide for them to pass. When they entered, they found +those who had preceded them ranged on each side of a long matt, which +was spread upon the ground, and at the farther end of which sat the +family: In the first house they entered they found some very young women +or children, dressed with the utmost neatness, who kept their station, +expecting the strangers to come up to them and make them presents, which +they did with the greatest pleasure; for prettier children or better +dressed they had never seen. One of them was a girl about six years old; +her gown, or upper garment, was red; a large quantity of plaited hair +was wound round her head, the ornament to which they give the name of +Tamou, and which they value more than any thing they possess. She sat at +the upper end of a matt thirty feet long, upon which none of the +spectators presumed to set a foot, notwithstanding the crowd; and she +leaned upon the arm of a well-looking woman about thirty, who was +probably her nurse. Our gentlemen walked up to her, and as soon as they +approached, she stretched out her hand to receive the beads which they +offered her, and no princess in Europe could have done it with a better +grace. + +<p>The people were so much gratified by the presents which, were made to +these girls, that when Mr Banks and Dr Solander returned they seemed +attentive to nothing but how to oblige them; and in one of the houses +they were, by order of the master, entertained with a dance, different +from any that they had seen. It was performed by one man, who put upon +his head a large cylindrical piece of wicker-work, or basket, about four +feet long and eight inches in diameter, which was faced with feathers, +placed perpendicularly, with the tops bending forwards, and edged, round +with shark's teeth, and the tail-feathers of tropic birds: When he had +put on this head-dress, which is called a <i>Whow</i>, he began to dance, +moving slowly, and often turning his head so as that the top of his high +wicker-cap described a circle, and sometimes throwing it so near the +faces of the spectators as to make them start back: This was held among +them as a very good joke, and never failed to produce a peal of +laughter, especially when it was played off upon one of the strangers. + +<p>On the 3d, we went along the shore to the northward, which was in a +direction opposite to that of the route Mr Banks and Dr Solander had +taken the day before, with a design to purchase stock, which we always +found the people more ready to part with, and at a more easy price, at +their houses than at the market. In the course of our walk we met with a +company of dancers, who detained us two hours, and during all that time +afforded us great entertainment. The company consisted of two +women-dancers, and six men, with three drums; we were informed by Tupia, +that they were some of the most considerable people of the island, and +that though they were continually going from place to place, they did +not, like the little strolling companies of Otaheite, take any gratuity +from the spectators. The women had upon their heads a considerable +quantity of Tamou, or plaited hair, which was brought several times +round the head, and adorned in many parts with the flowers of the +cape-jessamine, which were stuck in with much taste, and made a +head-dress truly elegant. Their necks, shoulders, and arms were naked; +so were the breasts also as low as the parting of the arm; below that, +they were covered with black cloth, which set close to the body; at the +side of each breast, next the arm, was placed a small plume of black +feathers, much in the same manner as our ladies now wear their nosegays +or <i>bouquets</i>; upon their hips rested a quantity of cloth plaited very +full, which reached up to the breast, and fell down below into long +petticoats, which quite concealed their feet, and which they managed +with as much dexterity as our opera-dancers could have done: The plaits +above the waist were brown and white alternately, the petticoats below +were all white. + +<p>In this dress they advanced sideways in a measured step, keeping +excellent time to the drums, which beat briskly and loud; soon after +they began to shake their hips, giving the folds of cloth that lay upon +them a very quick motion, which was in some degree continued through the +whole dance, though the body was thrown into various postures, sometimes +standing, sometimes sitting, and sometimes resting on their knees and +elbows, the fingers also being moved at the same time with a quickness +scarcely to be imagined. Much of the dexterity of the dancers, however, +and the entertainment of the spectators, consisted in the wantonness of +their attitudes and gestures, which was, indeed, such as exceeds all +description. + +<p>One of these girls had in her ear three pearls; one of them was very +large, but so foul that it was of little value; the other two were as +big as a middling pea; these were clear, and of a good colour and shape, +though spoiled by the drilling. Mr Banks would fain have purchased them, +and offered the owner any thing she would ask for them, but she could +not be persuaded to part with them at any price: He tempted her with the +value of four hogs, and whatever else she should chuse, but without +success; and indeed they set a value upon their pearls very nearly equal +to what they would fetch among us, except they could be procured before +they are drilled. + +<p>Between the dances of the women, the men performed a kind of dramatic +interlude, in which there was dialogue as well as dancing; but we were +not sufficiently acquainted with their language to understand the +subject. + +<p>On the 4th, some of our gentlemen saw a much more regular entertainment +of the dramatic kind, which was divided into four acts. + +<p>Tupia had often told us that he had large possessions in this island, +which had been taken away from him by the inhabitants of Bolabola, and +he now pointed them out in the very bay where the ship was at anchor. +Upon our going on shore, this was confirmed by the inhabitants, who +shewed us several districts or Whennuas, which they acknowledged to be +his right. + +<p>On the 5th, I received a present of three hogs, some fowls, several +pieces of cloth, the largest we had seen, being fifty yards long, which +they unfolded and displayed so as to make the greatest show possible; +and a considerable quantity of plantains, cocoa-nuts, and other +refreshments, from Opoony, the formidable king, or, in the language of +the country, Earee rahie, of Bolabola, with a message that he was at +this time upon the island, and that the next day he intended to pay me a +visit. + +<p>In the mean time Mr Banks and Dr Solander went upon the hills, +accompanied by several of the Indians, who conducted them by excellent +paths, to such a height, that they plainly saw the other side of the +island, and the passage through which the ship had passed the reef +between the little islands of Opururu and Tamou, when we landed upon it +the first time. As they were returning, they saw the Indians exercising +themselves at what they call <i>Erowhaw</i>, which is nothing more than +pitching a kind of light lance, headed with hard wood, at a mark: In +this amusement, though they seem very fond of it, they do not excel; for +not above one in twelve struck the mark, which was the bole of a +plantain tree, at about twenty yards distance. + +<p>On the 6th, we all staid at home, expecting the visit of the great king, +but we were disappointed; we had, however, much more agreeable company, +for he sent three very pretty girls to demand something in return for +his present: Perhaps he was unwilling to trust himself on board the +ship, or perhaps he thought his messengers would procure a more valuable +return for his hogs and poultry than he could himself; be that as it +may, we did not regret his absence, nor his messengers their visit. + +<p>In the afternoon, as the great king would not come to us, we determined +to go to the great king. As he was lord of the Bolabola men, the +conquerors of this, and the terror of all the other islands, we expected +to see a chief young and vigorous, with an intelligent countenance, and +an enterprising spirit: We found, however, a poor feeble wretch, +withered and decrepit, half blind with age, and so sluggish and stupid +that he appeared scarcely to have understanding enough left to know that +it was probable we should be gratified either by hogs or women.[46] He +did not receive us sitting, or with any state or formality as the other +chiefs had done: We made him our present, which be accepted, and gave a +hog in return. We had learnt that his principal residence was at Otaha; +and upon our telling him that we intended to go thither in our boats the +next morning, and that we should be glad to have him along with us, he +promised to be of the party. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 46: He was alive, however, when Cook visited Bolabola in his +last voyage, and even then was universally esteemed and feared.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Early in the morning, therefore, I set out both with the pinnace and +long-boat for Otaha, having some of the gentlemen with me; and in our +way we called upon Opoony, who was in his canoe, ready to join us. As +soon as we landed at Otaha, I made him a present of an axe, which I +thought might induce him to encourage his subjects to bring us such +provision as we wanted; but in this we found ourselves sadly +disappointed; for after staying with him till noon, we left him without +being able to procure a single article. I then proceeded to the north +point of the island, in the pinnace, having sent the long-boat another +way. As I went along I picked up half a dozen hogs, as many fowls, and +some plantains and yams. Having viewed and sketched the harbour on this +side of the island, I made the best of my way back, with the long-boat, +which joined me soon after it was dark; and about ten o'clock at night +we got on board the ship. + +<p>In this excursion Mr Banks was not with us; he spent the morning on +board the ship, trading with the natives, who came off in their canoes, +for provisions and curiosities; and in the afternoon he went on shore +with his draughtsmen, to sketch the dresses of the dancers which he had +seen a day or two before. He found the company exactly the same, except +that another woman had been added to it: The dancing also of the women +was the same, but the interludes of the men were somewhat varied; he saw +five or six performed, which were different from each other, and very +much resembled the drama of our stage-dances. The next day, he went +ashore again, with Dr Solander, and they directed their course towards +the dancing company, which, from the time of our second landing, had +gradually moved about two leagues in their course round the island. They +saw more dancing and interludes, the interludes still varying from each +other: In one of them the performers, who were all men, were divided +into two parties, which were distinguished from each other by the colour +of their clothes, one being brown, and the other white. The brown party +represented a master and servants, and the white party a company of +thieves: The master gave a basket of meat to the rest of his party, with +a charge to take care of it: The dance of the white party consisted of +several expedients to steal it, and that of the brown party in +preventing their success. After some time, those who had charge of the +basket placed themselves round it upon the ground, and leaning upon it, +appeared to go to sleep; the others, improving this opportunity, came +gently upon them, and lifting them up from the basket, carried off their +prize: The sleepers soon after awaking, missed their basket, but +presently fell a-dancing, without any farther regarding their loss; so +that the dramatic action of this dance was, according to the severest +laws of criticism, one, and our lovers of simplicity would here have +been gratified with an entertainment perfectly suited to the chastity of +their taste. + +<p>On the 9th, having spent the morning in trading with the canoes, we took +the opportunity of a breeze, which sprung up at east, and having stopped +our leak, and got the fresh stock which we had purchased on board, we +sailed out of the harbour. When we were sailing away, Tupia strongly +urged me to fire a shot towards Bolabola, possibly as a mark of his +resentment, and to shew the power of his new allies: In this I thought +proper to gratify him, though we were seven leagues distant. + +<p>While we were about these islands, we expended very little of the +ship's provisions, and were very plentifully supplied with hogs, fowls, +plantains, and yams, which we hoped would have been of great use to us +in our course to the southward; but the hogs would not eat European +grain of any kind, pulse, or bread-dust, so that we could not preserve +them alive; and the fowls were all very soon seized with a disease that +affected the head so, that they continued to hold it down between their +legs till they died: Much dependence therefore must not be placed in +live-stock taken on board at these places, at least not till a discovery +is made of some food that the hogs will eat, and some remedy for the +disease of the poultry. + +<p>Having been necessarily detained at Ulietea so long, by the carpenters +in stopping our leak, we determined to give up our design of going on +shore at Bolabola, especially as it appeared to be difficult of access. + +<p>To these six islands, Ulietea, Otaha, Bolabola, Huaneine, Tubai, and +Maurua, as they lie contiguous to each other, I gave the names of +<i>Society Islands</i>, but did not think it proper to distinguish them +separately by any other names than those by which they were known to the +natives. + +<p>They are situated between the latitude of 16° 10' and 16° 55' S. and +between the longitude of 150° 57' and 152° W. from the meridian of +Greenwich. Ulietea and Otaha lie within about two miles of each other, +and are both inclosed within one reef of coral rocks, so that there is +no passage for shipping between them. This reef forms several excellent +harbours; the entrances into them, indeed, are but narrow, yet when a +ship is once in, nothing can hurt her. The harbours on the east side +have been described already; and on the west side of Ulietea, which is +the largest of the two, there are three. The northermost, in which we +lay, is called <i>Ohamaneno</i>: The channel leading into it is about a +quarter of a mile wide, and lies between two low sandy islands, which +are the northermost on this side; between, or just within the two +islands, there is good anchorage in twenty-eight fathom, soft ground. +This harbour, though small, is preferable to the others, because it is +situated in the most fertile part of the islands, and where fresh water +is easily to be got. The other two harbours lie to the southward of +this, and not far from the south end of the island: In both of them +there is good anchorage, with ten, twelve, and fourteen fathom. They are +easily known by three small woody islands at their entrance. The +southermost of these two harbours lies within, and to the southward of +the southermost of these islands, and the other lies between the two +northermost. I was told that there were more harbours at the south end +of this island, but I did not examine whether the report was true. + +<p>Otaha affords two very good harbours, one on the east side, and the +other on the west. That on the east side is called Ohamene, and has been +mentioned already; the other is called <i>Oherurua</i>, and lies about the +middle of the south-west side of the island; it is pretty large and +affords good anchorage in twenty and twenty-five fathom, nor is there +any want of fresh water. The breach in the reef, that forms a channel +into this harbour, is about a quarter of a mile broad, and, like all the +rest, is very steep on both sides; in general there is no danger here +but what is visible. + +<p>The island of Bolabola lies N.W. and by W. from Otaha, distant about +four leagues; it is surrounded by a reef of rocks, and several small +islands, in compass together about eight leagues. I was told, that on +the south-west side of the island there is a channel through the reef +into a very good harbour, but I did not think it worth while to examine +it, for the reasons that have been just assigned. This island is +rendered very remarkable by a high craggy hill, which appears to be +almost perpendicular, and terminates at the top in two peaks, one higher +than the other. + +<p>The land of Ulietea and Otaha is hilly, broken, and irregular, except on +the sea-coast, yet the hills look green and pleasant, and are in many +places clothed with wood. The several particulars in which these islands +and their inhabitants differ from what we had observed at Otaheite, have +been mentioned in the course of the narrative. + +<p>We pursued our course without any event worthy of note till the 13th, +about noon, when we saw land bearing S.E. which Tupia told us was an +island called <i>Oheteroa</i>. About six in the evening, we were within two +or three leagues of it, upon which I shortened sail, and stood off and +on all night; the next morning stood in for the land. We ran to leeward +of the island, keeping close in shore, and saw several of the natives, +though in no great numbers, upon the beach. At nine o'clock I sent Mr +Gore, one of my lieutenants, in the pinnace, to endeavour to land upon +the island, and learn from the natives whether there was anchorage in a +bay then in sight, and what land lay farther to the southward. Mr Banks +and Dr Solander accompanied Mr Gore in this expedition, and as they +thought Tupia might be useful, they took him with them. + +<p>As the boat approached the shore, those on board perceived the natives +to be armed with long lances; as they did not intend to land till they +got round a point which run out at a little distance, they stood along +the coast, and the natives therefore very probably thought they were +afraid of them. They had now got together to the number of about sixty, +and all of them sat down upon the shore, except two, who were dispatched +forward to observe the motions of those in the boat. These men, after +walking abreast of her some time, at length leaped into the water, and +swam towards her, but were soon left behind; two more then appeared, and +attempted to board her in the same manner, but they also were soon left +behind; a fifth man then ran forward alone, and having got a good way +ahead of the boat before he took to the water, easily reached her. Mr +Banks urged the officer to take him in, thinking it a good opportunity +to get the confidence and good will of a people, who then certainly +looked upon them as enemies, but he obstinately refused: This man +therefore was left behind like the others, and so was a sixth, who +followed him. + +<p>When the boat had got round the point, she perceived that all her +followers had desisted from the pursuit: She now opened a large bay, at +the bottom of which appeared another body of men, armed with long lances +like the first. Here our people prepared to land, and pushed towards the +shore, a canoe at the same time putting off to meet them. As soon as it +came near them, they lay upon their oars, and calling out to them, told +them that they were friends, and that if they would come up they would +give them nails, which were held up for them to see: After some +hesitation they came up to the boat's stern, and took some nails that +were offered them with great seeming satisfaction; but in less than a +minute they appeared to have formed a design of boarding the boat, and +making her their prize: Three of them suddenly leaped into it, and the +others brought up the canoe, which the motion in quitting her had thrown +off a little, manifestly with a design to follow their associates, and +support them in their attempt. The first that boarded the boat, entered +close to Mr Banks, and instantly snatched his powder-horn out of his +pocket: Mr Banks seized it, and with some difficulty wrenched it out of +his hand, at the same time pressing against his breast in order to force +him over-board, but he was too strong for him, and kept his place: The +officer then snapped his piece, but it missed fire, upon which he +ordered some of the people to fire over their heads; two pieces were +accordingly discharged, upon which they all instantly leaped into the +water: One of the people, either from cowardice or cruelty, or both, +levelled a third piece at one of them as he was swimming away, and the +ball grazed his forehead; happily, however, the wound was very slight, +for he recovered the canoe, and stood up in her as active and vigorous +as the rest. The canoe immediately stood in for the shore, where a great +number of people, not less than two hundred, were now assembled. The +boat also pushed in, but found the land guarded all round with a shoal, +upon which the sea broke with a considerable surf; it was therefore +thought advisable by the officer to proceed along shore in search of a +more convenient landing-place: In the mean time, the people on board saw +the canoe go on shore, and the natives gather eagerly round her to +enquire the particulars of what had happened. Soon after, a single man +ran along the shore, armed with his lance, and when he came a-breast of +the boat he began to dance, brandish his weapon, and call out in a very +shrill tone, which Tupia said was a defiance from the people. The boat +continued to row along the shore, and the champion followed it, +repeating his defiance by his voice and his gestures; but no better +landing-place being found than that where the canoe had put the natives +onshore, the officer turned back with a view to attempt it there, +hoping, that if it should not be practicable, the people would come to a +conference either on the shoals or in their canoes, and that a treaty of +peace might be concluded with them. + +<p>As the boat rowed slowly along the shore back again, another champion +came down, shouting defiance, and brandishing his lance: His appearance +was more formidable than that of the other, for he wore a large cap made +of the tail feathers of the tropic bird, and his body was covered with +stripes of different coloured cloth, yellow, red, and brown. This +gentleman also danced, but with much more nimbleness and dexterity than +the first; our people therefore, considering his agility and his dress, +distinguished him by the name of <i>Harlequin</i>. Soon after a more grave +and elderly man came down to the beach, and hailing the people in the +boat, enquired who they were, and from whence they came; Tupia answered +in their own language, from Otaheite: The three natives then walked +peaceably along the shore till they came to a shoal, upon which a few +people were collected; here they stopped, and after a short conference, +they all began to pray very loud: Tupia made his responses, but +continued to tell us that they were not our friends. When their prayer, +or, as they call it, their <i>Poorah</i>, was over, our people entered into a +parley with them, telling them, that if they would lay by their lances +and clubs, for some had one and some the other, they would come on +shore, and trade with them for whatever they would bring: They agreed, +but it was only upon condition that we would leave behind us our +musquets: This was a condition which, however equitable it might appear, +could not be complied with, nor indeed would it have put the two parties +upon an equality, except their numbers had been equal. Here then the +negotiation seemed to be at an end; but in a little time they ventured +to come nearer to the boat, and at last came near enough to trade, which +they did very fairly, for a small quantity of their cloth and some of +their weapons; but as they gave our people no hope of provisions, nor +indeed any thing else except they would venture through a narrow channel +to the shore, which, all circumstances considered, they did not think it +prudent to do, they put off the boat and left them. + +<p>With the ship and the boat we had now made the circuit of the island, +and finding that there was neither harbour nor anchorage about it, and +that the hostile disposition of the people would render landing +impracticable, without bloodshed, I determined not to attempt it, having +no motive that could justify the risk of life. + +<p>The bay which the boat entered lies on the west side of the island; the +bottom was foul and rocky, but the water so clear that it could plainly +be seen at the depth of five-and-twenty fathom, which is one hundred and +fifty feet. + +<p>This island is situated in the latitude of 22° 27' S. and in the +longitude of 150° 47' W. from the meridian of Greenwich. It is thirteen +miles in circuit, and rather high than low, but neither populous nor +fertile in proportion to the other islands that we had seen in these +seas. The chief produce seems to be the tree of which they make their +weapons, called in their language <i>etoa</i>; many plantations of it were +seen along the shore, which is not surrounded, like the neighbouring +islands, by a reef. + +<p>The people seemed to be lusty and well-made, rather browner than those +we had left: Under their arm-pits they had black marks about as broad as +the hand, the edges of which formed not a straight but an indented line: +They had also circles of the same colour, but not so broad, round their +arms and legs, but were not marked on any other part of the body. + +<p>Their dress was very different from any that we had seen before, as well +as the cloth of which it was made. The cloth was of the same materials +as that which is worn in the other islands, and most of that which was +seen by our people was dyed of a bright but deep yellow, and covered on +the outside with a composition like varnish, which was either red, or of +a dark lead-colour; over this ground it was again painted in stripes of +many different patterns, with wonderful regularity, in the manner of Our +striped silks in England; the cloth that was painted red was striped +with black, and that which was painted lead-colour with white. Their +habit was a short jacket of this cloth, which reached about as low as +their knees; it was of one piece, and had no other making than a hole in +the middle of it, stitched round with long stitches, in which it +differed from all that we had seen before: Through this hole the head +was put, and what hung down was confined to their bodies by a piece of +yellow cloth or sash, which, passing round the neck behind, was crossed +upon the breast, and then collected round the waist like a belt, which +passed over another belt of red cloth, so that they made a very gay and +warlike appearance; some had caps of the feathers of the tropic bird, +which have been before described, and some had a piece of white or +lead-coloured cloth wound about the head like a small turban, which our +people thought more becoming. + +<p>Their arms were long lances, made of the etoa, the wood of which is very +hard; they were well polished and sharpened at one end: some were near +twenty feet long, though not more than three fingers thick; they had +also a weapon which was both club and pike, made of the same wood, about +seven feet long; this also was well polished, and sharpened at one end +into a broad point. As a guard against these weapons, when they attack +each other, they have matts folded up many times, which they place under +their clothes from the neck to the waist: The weapons themselves indeed +are capable of much less mischief than those of the same kind which we +saw at the other islands, for the lances were there pointed with the +sharp bone of the stingray that is called the sting, and the pikes were +of much greater weight. The other things that we saw here were all +superior in their kind to any we had seen before; the cloth was of a +better colour in the dye, and painted with greater neatness and taste; +the clubs were better cut and polished, and the canoe, though a small +one, was very rich in ornament, and the carving was executed in a better +manner: Among other decorations peculiar to this canoe, was a line of +small white feathers, which bung from the head and stern on the outside, +and which, when we saw them, were thoroughly wetted by the spray. + +<p>Tupia told us, that there were several islands lying at different +distances, and in different directions from this, between the south and +the north-west; and that at the distance of three days sail to the +north-east, there was an island called <i>Manua</i>, Bird-island: He seemed, +however, most desirous that we should sail to the westward, and +described several islands in that direction which he said he had +visited: He told us that he had been ten or twelve days in going +thither, and thirty in coming back, and that the <i>pahie</i> in which he had +made the voyage, sailed much faster than the ship: Reckoning his pahie +therefore to go at the rate of forty leagues a-day, which from my own +observation I have great reason to think these boats will do, it would +make four hundred leagues in ten days, which I compute to be the +distance of Boscawen and Keppel's Islands, discovered by Captain Wallis, +westward of Ulietea, and therefore think it very probable that they were +the islands he had visited.[47] The farthest island that he knew any +thing of to the southward, he said, lay at the distance of about two +days sail from Oteroah, and was called <i>Moutou</i>; but he said that his +father had told him there were islands to the southward of that: Upon +the whole, I was determined to stand southward in search of a continent, +but to spend no time in searching for islands, if we did not happen to +fall in with them during our course. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 47: These and other islands since discovered in the South Sea, +will be properly laid down in a map to be afterwards given. The chart +that accompanied the preceding volume was restricted to the state of +geographical knowledge at the time of publishing Hawkesworth's work, and +is, of coarse, imperfect. But it was judged unadvisable to anticipate +recent information.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION XXI. + +<p><i>The Passage from Oteroah to New Zealand; Incidents which happened on +going a-shore there, and while the Ship lay in Poverty Bay</i>. + +<p>We sailed from Oteroah on the 15th of August, and on Friday the 25th we +celebrated the anniversary of our leaving England, by taking a Cheshire +cheese from a locker, where it had been carefully treasured up for this +occasion, and tapping a cask of porter, which proved to be very good, +and in excellent order. On the 29th, one of the sailors got so drunk, +that the next morning he died: We thought at first that he could not +have come honestly by the liquor, but we afterwards learnt that the +boatswain, whose mate he was, had in mere good-nature given him part of +a bottle of rum. + +<p>On the 30th we saw the comet: At one o'clock in the morning it was a +little above the horizon in the eastern part of the heavens; at about +half an hour after four it passed the meridian, and its tail subtended +an angle of forty-two degrees. Our latitude was 38° 20' S., our +longitude, by log, 147° 6' W., and the variation of the needle, by the +azimuth, 7° 9' E. Among others that observed the comet, was Tupia, who +instantly cried out, that as soon as it should be seen by the people of +Bolabola, they would kill the inhabitants of Ulietea, who would with the +utmost precipitation fly to the mountains. + +<p>On the 1st of September, being in the latitude of 40° 22' S. and +longitude 147° 29' W, and there not being any signs of land, with a +heavy sea from the westward, and strong gales, I wore, and stood back to +the northward, fearing that we might receive such damage in our sails +and rigging, as would hinder the prosecution of the voyage. + +<p>On the next day, there being strong gales to the westward, I +brought-to, with the ship's head to the northward; but in the mooring of +the 3d, the wind being more moderate, we loosened the reef of the +mainsail, set the top-sails, plied to the westward. + +<p>We continued our course till the 19th, when our latitude being 29° and +our longitude 159° 29', we observed the variation to be 8° 32' E. On the +24th, being in latitude 33° 18', longitude 162° 51', we observed a small +piece of seaweed, and a piece of wood covered with barnacles: The +variation here was 10° 48' E. + +<p>On the 27th, being in latitude 28° 59', longitude 169° 5, we saw a seal +asleep upon the water, and several bunches of sea-weed. The next day we +saw more seaweed in bunches, and on the 29th, a bird, which we thought a +land bird; it somewhat resembled a snipe, but had a short bill. On the +1st of October, we saw birds innumerable, and another seal asleep upon +the water; it is a general opinion that seals never go out of soundings, +or far from land, but those that we saw in these seas prove the +contrary. Rock-weed is, however, a certain indication that, land is not +far distant. The next day, it being calm, we hoisted out the boat to try +whether there was a current, but found none. Our latitude was 37° +10', longitude 172° 54' W. On the 3d, being in latitude 36° 56', +longitude 173°27', we took up more sea-weed, and another piece of wood +covered with barnacles. The next day we saw two more seals, and a brown +bird, about as big as a raven, with some white feathers under the wing. +Mr Gore told us, that birds of this kind were seen in great numbers +about Falkland's Islands, and our people gave them the name of +Port-Egmont hens. + +<p>On the 5th, we thought the water changed colour, but upon casting the +lead, had no ground with 180 fathom. In the evening of this day, the +variation was 12° 50' E., and while we were going nine leagues it +increased to 14° 2'. + +<p>On the next day, Friday, October the 6th, we saw land from the +mast-head, bearing W. by N. and stood directly for it; in the evening it +could just be discerned from the deck, and appeared large. The variation +this day was, by azimuth and amplitude, 15° 4' 1/2 E., and by +observation made of the sun and moon, the longitude of the ship appeared +to be 180° 55' W., and by the medium of this, and subsequent +observations, there appeared to be an error in the ship's account of her +longitude during her run from Otaheite of 3° 16', she being so much to +the westward of the longitude resulting from the log. At midnight I +brought to and sounded, but had no ground with one hundred and seventy +fathom. + +<p>On the 7th it fell calm, we therefore approached the land slowly, and in +the afternoon, when a breeze sprang up, we were still distant seven or +eight leagues. It appeared still larger as it was more distinctly seen, +with four or five ranges of hills, rising one over the other, and a +chain of mountains above all, which appeared to be of an enormous +height. This land became the subject of much eager conversation; but the +general opinion seemed to be that we had found the <i>terra australis +incognita</i>. About five o'clock we saw the opening of a bay, which seemed +to run pretty far inland, upon which we hauled our wind and stood in for +it; we also saw smoke ascending from different places on shore. When +night came on, however, we kept plying off and on till day-light, when +we found ourselves to the leeward of the bay, the wind being at north: +We could now perceive that the hills were clothed with wood, and that +some of the trees in the valleys were very large. By noon we fetched in +with the south-west point; but not being able to weather it, tacked and +stood off: At this time we saw several canoes standing cross the bay, +which in a little time made to shore, without seeming to take the least +notice of the ship; we also saw some houses, which appeared to be small, +but neat; and near one of them a considerable number of the people +collected together, who were sitting upon the beach, and who, we +thought, were the same that we had seen in the canoes. Upon a small +peninsula, at the north-east head, we could plainly perceive a pretty +high and regular paling, which inclosed the whole top of a hill; this +was also the subject of much speculation, some supposing it to be a park +of deer, others an inclosure for oxen and sheep. About four o'clock in +the afternoon we anchored on the north-west side of the bay, before the +entrance of a small river, in ten fathom water, with a fine sandy +bottom, and at about half a league from the shore. The sides of the bay +are white cliffs of a great height; the middle is low land, with hills +gradually rising behind, one towering above another, and terminating in +the chain of mountains which appeared to be far inland. + +<p>In the evening I went on shore, accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr +Solander, with the pinnace and yawl and a party of men. We landed +abreast of the ship, on the east side of the river, which was here about +forty yards broad; but seeing some natives on the west side, whom I +wished to speak with, and finding the river not fordable, I ordered the +yawl in to carry us over, and left the pinnace at the entrance. When we +came near the place where the people were assembled, they all ran away; +however, we landed, and leaving four boys to take care of the yawl, we +walked up to some huts which were about two or three hundred yards from +the water-side. When we had got some distance from the boat, four men, +armed with long lances, rushed out of the woods, and running up to +attack the boat, would certainly have cut her off, if the people in the +pinnace had not discovered them, and called to the boys to drop down the +stream: The boys instantly obeyed; but being closely pursued by the +Indians, the cockswain of the pinnace, who had the charge of the boats, +fired a musket over their heads; at this they stopped and looked round +them, but in a few minutes renewed the pursuit, brandishing their lances +in a threatening manner: The cockswain then fired a second musket over +their heads, but of this they took no notice; and one of them lifting up +his spear to dart it at the boat, another piece was fired, which shot +him dead. When he fell, the other three stood motionless for some +minutes, as if petrified with astonishment; as soon as they recovered, +they went back, dragging after them the dead body, which, however, they +soon left, that it might not encumber their flight. At the report of the +first musket we drew together, having straggled to a little distance +from each other, and made the best of our way back to the boat; and +crossing the river, we soon saw the Indian lying dead upon the ground. +Upon examining the body, we found that he had been shot through the +heart: He was a man of the middle size and stature; his complexion was +brown, but not very dark; and one side of his face was tattowed in +spiral lines of a very regular figure: He was covered with a fine cloth, +of a manufacture altogether new to us, and it was tied on exactly +according to the representation in Valentyn's Account of Abel Tasman's +Voyage, vol. 3, part 2, page 50, his hair also was tied in a knot on the +top of his head, but had no feather in it.[48] We returned immediately +to the ship, where we could hear the people on shore talking with great +earnestness, and in a very loud tone, probably about what had happened, +and what should be done. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 48: Abel Tasman was sent out by the Dutch East India Company +in 1642, to take surveys of the new-found countries, and, if possible, +to make discoveries. The account of his voyage was published in Low +Dutch, by Dirk Rembrant. A French translation of it was given by +Thevenot, in the 4th part of his collection, published at Paris, 1673, +an abridgement of which was inserted in Harris's collection. Though +curious and considerably important, his observations were long +disregarded; and in particular, his discovery of New Zealand or Staaten +Land, as he called it in honour of the States General, seems to have +been either discredited or held immaterial or overlooked, till this +voyage of Captain Cook obtained for it the notice it deserved. Then, as +is not unusual, it attracted undue consideration and importance. Mr +Finkerton has re-published the account of this voyage in his collection. +Tasman discovered New Zealand on the 13th September, 1642, but did not +land on it, an unfortunate event having given him a total distrust of +the natives. Some of them, after a good deal of backwardness and seeming +fear, ventured to go on board the Heenskirk, which was the consort of +his own vessel, named the Zee-Haan. Tasman, not liking their appearance, +and being apprehensive of their hostile intentions, sent seven of his +men to put the people of that vessel on their guard. The savages +attacked them, killed three, and forced the others to seek their lives +by swimming. This occasioned his giving the name of the Bay of +Murderers, to the place where it happened. The rough weather prevented +him from taking vengeance.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the morning we saw several of the natives where they had been seen +the night before, and some walking with a quick pace towards the place +where we had landed, most of them unarmed; but three or four with long +pikes in their hands. As I was desirous to establish an intercourse with +them, I ordered three boats to be manned with seamen and marines, and +proceeded towards the shore, accompanied by Mr Banks, Dr Solander, the +other gentlemen, and Tupia; about fifty of them seemed to wait for our +landing, on the opposite side of the river, which we thought a sign of +fear, and seated themselves upon the ground: At first, therefore, +myself, with only Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and Tupia, landed from the +little boat, and advanced towards them; but we had not proceeded many +paces before they all started up, and every man produced either a long +pike, or a small weapon of green talc, extremely well polished, about a +foot long, and thick enough to weigh four or five pounds: Tupia called +to them in the language of Otaheite; but they answered only by +flourishing their weapons, and making signs to us to depart; a musket +was then fired wide of them, and the ball struck the water, the river +being still between, us: They saw the effect, and desisted from their +threats; but we thought it prudent to retreat till the marines could be +landed. This was soon done; and they marched, with a jack carried before +them, to a little bank, about fifty yards from the water-side; here they +were drawn up, and I again advanced, with Mr Banks and Dr Solander; +Tupia, Mr Green, and Mr Monkhouse, being with us. Tupia was again +directed to speak to them, and it was with great pleasure that we +perceived he was perfectly understood, he and the natives speaking only +different dialects of the same language. He told them that we wanted +provision and water, and would give them iron in exchange, the +properties of which he explained as well as he was able. They were +willing to trade, and desired that we would come over to them for that +purpose: To this we consented, provided they would lay by their arms; +which, however, they could by no means be persuaded to do. During this +conversation, Tupia warned us to be upon our guard, for that they were +not our friends: We then pressed them in our turn to come over to us; +and at last one of them stripped himself, and swam over without his +arms: He was almost immediately followed by two more, and soon after by +most of the rest, to the number of twenty or thirty; but these brought +their arms with them. We made them all presents of iron and heads; but +they seemed to set little value upon either, particularly the iron, not +having the least idea of its use; so that we got nothing in return but a +few feathers: They offered indeed to exchange their arms for ours, and, +when we refused, made many attempts to snatch them out of our hands. As +soon as they came over, Tupia repeated his declaration, that they were +not our friends, and again warned us to be upon our guard; their +attempts to snatch our weapons, therefore, did not succeed; and we gave +them to understand by Tupia, that we should be obliged to kill them if +they offered any farther violence. In a few minutes, however, Mr Green +happening to turn about, one of them snatched away his hanger, and +retiring to a little distance, waved it round his head with a shout of +exultation: The rest now began to be extremely insolent, and we saw more +coming to join them from the opposite side of the river. It was +therefore become necessary to repress them, and Mr Banks fired at the +man who had taken the hanger with small shot, at the distance of about +fifteen yards: When the shot struck him, he ceased his cry; but instead +of returning the hanger, continued to flourish it over his head, at the +same time slowly retreating to a greater distance. Mr Monkhouse seeing +this, fired at him with ball, and he instantly dropped. Upon this the +main body, who had retired to a rock in the middle of the river upon +the first discharge, began to return; two that were near to the man who +had been killed, ran up to the body, one seized his weapon of green +talc, and the other endeavoured to secure the hanger, which Mr Monkhouse +had but just time to prevent. As all that had retired to the rock were +now advancing, three of us discharged our pieces, loaded only with small +shot, upon which they swam back for the shore; and we perceived, upon +their landing, that two or three of them were wounded. They retired +slowly up the country, and we re-embarked in our boats. + +<p>As we had unhappily experienced that nothing was to be done with these +people at this place, and finding the water in the river to be salt, I +proceeded in the boats round the head of the bay in search of fresh +water, and with a design, if possible, to surprise some of the natives, +and take them on board, where by kind treatment and presents I might +obtain their friendship, and by their means establish an amicable +correspondence with their countrymen. + +<p>To my great regret, I found no place where I could land, a dangerous +surf every where beating upon the shore; but I saw two canoes coming in +from the sea, one under sail, and the other worked with paddles. I +thought this a favourable opportunity to get some of the people into my +possession without mischief, as those in the canoe were probably +fishermen, and without arms, and I had three boats full of men. I +therefore disposed the boats so as most effectually to intercept them in +their way to the shore; the people in the canoe that was paddled +perceived us so soon, that by making to the nearest land with their +utmost strength, they escaped us; the other sailed on till she was in +the midst of us, without discerning what we were; but the moment she +discovered us, the people on board struck their sail, and took to their +paddles, which they plied so briskly that she out-ran the boat. They +were however within hearing, and Tupia called out to them to come +along-side, and promised for us that they should come to no hurt: They +chose, however, rather to trust to their paddles than our promises, and +continued to make from us with all their power. I then ordered a musquet +to be fired over their heads, as the least exceptionable expedient to +accomplish my design, hoping it would either make them surrender or +leap into the water. Upon the discharge of the piece, they ceased +paddling; and all of them, being seven in number, began to strip, as we +imagined to jump overboard; but it happened otherwise. They immediately +formed a resolution not to fly, but to fight; and when the boat came up, +they began the attack with their paddles, and with stones and other +offensive weapons that were in the boat, so vigorously, that we were +obliged to fire upon them in our own defence: Four were unhappily +killed, and the other three, who were boys, the eldest about nineteen, +and the youngest about eleven, instantly leaped into the water; the +eldest swam with great vigour, and resisted the attempts of our people +to take him into the boat by every effort that he could make: He was +however at last overpowered, and the other two were taken up with less +difficulty. I am conscious that the feeling of every reader of humanity +will censure me for having fired upon these unhappy people, and it is +impossible that, upon a calm review, I should approve it myself. They +certainly did not deserve death for not chusing to confide in my +promises; or not consenting to come on board my boat, even if they had +apprehended no danger; but the nature of my service required me to +obtain a knowledge of their country, which I could no otherwise effect +than by forcing my way into it in a hostile manner, or gaining admission +through the confidence and good-will of the people. I had already tried +the power of presents without effect; and I was now prompted, by my +desire to avoid further hostilities, to get some of them on board, as +the only method left of convincing them that we intended them no harm, +and had it in our power to contribute to their gratification and +convenience. Thus far my intentions certainly were not criminal; and +though in the contest, which I had not the least reason to expect, our +victory might have been complete without so great an expence of life, +yet in such situations, when the command to fire has been given, no man +can restrain its excess, or prescribe its effect.[49] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 49: It seems impossible to justify the transaction. Let +conscience and the law of nature speak. Palliating circumstances may be +allowed their full influence, but still there will remain enough in the +deed, to spot the memory of our great and certainly humane navigator. +The life of man is the most sacred property under the heavens--its value +is perhaps incalculable by any other means than an appeal to the +consciousness of its dignity and importance, which every one who enjoys +it possesses. It is worse than vain to set about considering the +comparative value of different lives, in order to ascertain the momentum +of the guilt of violating them in particular instances; and thus to +depreciate the existence of savages, by comparing their habits, their +manners, their enjoyments, and sufferings, with those of civilized +people. A man's life is always valuable to himself, in the proportion of +what he would give to secure and prolong it. Is not this the basis of +the law, which excuses homicide when committed in self-defence? Does not +that law imply the equality of lives in all cases, without disparagement +of rank, station, or circumstances? Yet even that law, recognised in all +countries worthy of notice for their intelligence and cultivation, +required something of the nature of a purgation of the person, whom it +at the same time absolved of the deadly guilt of the action. Dr +Hawkesworth, in his General Introduction, which it was quite unnecessary +to give entire in this work, argues the question of the lawfulness of +such aggression as has been mentioned, on the abstract principle that +the advantages of discoveries overbalance the evils attendant on the +making of them. But admitting all that he says on the subject, which is +<i>something</i> more than he proves--admitting, in <i>this</i> case, that the end +justifies the means--still it may be contended with <i>propriety</i>, that +those who have been entrusted with such commands are amenable to the +fundamental laws of humanity and all good governments--Let it be proved +that they have not exceeded their instructions, or availed themselves of +a concession only problematically and in fact eventually just, to use +force and deal out slaughter in conferring their favours. Let there be +no relaxation of the solemnity and imposing aspect of the law in such +cases, whatever there be of its retributive severity. Sailors in +general, and our own in particular, as we may see even in the course of +this narrative, are not to be trusted with the smallest discretionary +power, where the lives of <i>naked</i> men are concerned. The obvious +contrast is too much for their pride; mercifulness of disposition does +not mitigate its pungency. An abatement in the rigour of the law +unfortunately flatters their prejudices, and loosens the tie by which +their passions are feebly bound under a sense of duty and fear. The +consequences are shocking and unavoidable. Abrogate entirely from these +at all times unthinking men, the liberty of judgment as to the worth of +life--let there be but one law for an Englishman and a savage--declare +by the voice of justice, that though their skins have not the same hue, +and though their hair be differently turned on their heads, yet their +blood is the same, and that He that made one made the other also, and +has the same interest in both. Such principles would facilitate +discoveries, and would render them blessings. The maxims and the Conduct +of William Penn, a name, associated, as it no doubt is, with ideas of +something extravagant, and perhaps with the opinion of something +impracticable, nevertheless so dear and encouraging to humanity, are +worthy of being set up in letters of gold before the eyes of all +generations. "Whoever, (was his enactment for the regulation of +intercourse with the natives of the country still bearing his name), +whoever shall hurt, wrong, or offend any Indian, shall incur the same +penalty as if he had offended in like manner against his fellow +planter." He treated these savages as his brethren, and he made them +such. They pledged themselves "to live in love with William Penn and +his children as long as the sun and moon should endure"--nor did they +violate their faith. It is lamentable to be constrained to join with +Voltaire in saying, "this is the only treaty ever concluded betwixt +Christians, and Savages that was not ratified by an oath; and the only +one that never was broken!" Penn outlived the storms and malice of more +than half a century of persecutions, and died in peace at the age of +seventy-two. Who does not think of the <i>murder</i> of Cook, with a feeling +of <i>something more than common regret</i> for the loss of a great and most +estimable man!--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>As soon as the poor wretches whom we had taken out of the water were in +the boat, they squatted down, expecting no doubt instantly to be put to +death: We made haste to convince them of the contrary, by every method +in our power; we furnished them with clothes, and gave them every other +testimony of kindness that could remove their fears and engage their +good-will. Those who are acquainted with human nature will not wonder, +that the sudden joy of these young savages at being unexpectedly +delivered from the fear of death, and kindly treated by those whom they +supposed would have been their instant executioners, surmounted their +concern for the friends they had lost, and was strongly expressed in +their countenance and behaviour. Before we reached the ship, their +suspicions and fears being wholly removed, they appeared to be not only +reconciled to their situation but in high spirits, and upon being +offered some bread when they came on board, they devoured it with a +voracious appetite. They answered and asked many questions, with great +appearance of pleasure and curiosity; and when our dinner came, they +expressed an inclination to taste every thing that they saw: They seemed +best pleased with the salt pork, though we had other provisions upon the +table. At sun-set, they eat another meal with great eagerness, each +devouring a large quantity of bread, and drinking above a quart of +water. We then made them beds upon the lockers, and they went to sleep +with great seeming content. In the night, however, the tumult of their +minds having subsided, and given way to reflection, they sighed often +and loud. Tupia, who was always upon the watch to comfort them, got up, +and by soothing and encouragement, made them not only easy but cheerful; +their cheerfulness was encouraged, so that they sung a song with a +degree of taste that surprised us: The tune was solemn and slow, like +those of our Psalms, containing many notes and semitones. Their +countenances were intelligent and expressive, and the middlemost, who +seemed to be about fifteen, had an openness in his aspect, and an ease +in his deportment, which were very striking: We found that the two +eldest were brothers, and that their names were <i>Tuahourange</i> and +<i>Koikerange</i>; the name of the youngest was <i>Maragovete</i>. As we were +returning to the ship, after having taken these boys into the boat, we +picked up a large piece of pumice stone floating upon the water; a sure +sign that there either is, or has been a volcano in this neighbourhood. + +<p>In the morning, they all seemed to be cheerful, and eat another enormous +meal; after this we dressed them, and adorned them with bracelets, +anclets, and necklaces, after their own fashion, and the boat being +hoisted out, they were told that we were going to set them ashore: This +produced a transport of joy; but upon perceiving that we made towards +our first landing-place near the river, their countenances changed, and +they entreated with great earnestness that they might not be set ashore +at that place, because they said, it was inhabited by their enemies, who +would kill them and eat them. This was a great disappointment to me; +because I hoped the report and appearance of the boys would procure a +favourable reception for ourselves. I had already sent an officer on +shore with the marines and a party of men to cut wood, and I was +determined to land near the place; not, however, to abandon the boys, +if, when we got ashore, they should be unwilling to leave us, but to +send a boat with them in the evening to that part of the bay to which +they pointed, and which they called their home. Mr Banks, Dr Solander, +and Tupia were with me, and upon our landing with the boys, and crossing +the river, they seemed at first to be unwilling to leave us; but at +length they suddenly changed their mind, and, though not without a +manifest struggle, and some tears, they took their leave: When they were +gone, we proceeded along a swamp, with a design to shoot some ducks, of +which we saw great plenty, and four of the marines attended us, walking +abreast of us upon a bank that overlooked the country. After we had +advanced about a mile, these men called out to us and told us, that a +large body of the Indians was in sight, and advancing at a great rate. +Upon receiving this intelligence, we drew together, and resolved to +make the best of our way to the boats; we had scarcely begun to put this +into execution, when the three Indian boys started suddenly from some +bushes, where they had concealed themselves, and again claimed our +protection: we readily received them, and repairing to the beach as the +clearest place, we walked briskly towards the boats. The Indians were in +two bodies; one ran along the bank which had been quitted by the +marines, the other fetched a compass by the swamp, so that we could not +see them: When they perceived that we had formed into one body, they +slackened their pace, but still followed us in a gentle walk: That they +slackened their pace, was for us, as well as for them, a fortunate +circumstance; for when we came to the side of the river, where we +expected to find the boats that were to carry us over to the wooders, we +found the pinnace at least a mile from her station, having been sent to +pick up a bird which had been shot by the officer on shore, and the +little boat was obliged to make three trips before we could all get over +to the rest of the party. As soon as we were drawn up on the other side, +the Indians came down, not in a body as we expected, but by two or three +at a time, all armed, and in a short time their number increased to +about two hundred: As we now despaired of making peace with them, seeing +that the dread of our small arms did not keep them at a distance, and +that the ship was too far off to reach the place with a shot, we +resolved to re-embark, lest our stay should embroil us in another +quarrel, and cost more of the Indians their lives. We therefore advanced +towards the pinnace which was now returning, when one of the boys +suddenly cried out, that his uncle was among the people who had marched +down to us, and desired us to stay and talk with them: We complied, and +a parley immediately commenced between them and Tupia; during which the +boys held up every thing we had given them as tokens of our kindness and +liberality; but neither would either of the boys swim over to them, or +any of them to the boys. The body of the man who had been killed the day +before, still lay exposed upon the beach; the boys seeing it lie very +near us, went up to it, and covered it with some of the clothes that we +had given them; and soon after a single man, unarmed, who proved to be +the uncle of Maragovete, the youngest of the boys, swam over to us, +bringing in his hand a green branch, which we supposed, as well here as +at Otaheite, to be an emblem of peace. We received his branch by the +hands of Tupia, to whom he gave it, and made him many presents; we also +invited him to go on board the ship, but he declined it; we therefore +left him, and expected that his nephew, and the two other young Indians, +would have staid with him, but to our great surprise, they chose rather +to go with us. As soon as we had retired, he went and gathered another +green branch, and with this in his hand, he approached the dead body +which the youth had covered with part of his clothes, walking sideways, +with many ceremonies, and then throwing it towards him. When this was +done, he returned to his companions, who had sat down upon the sand to +observe the issue of his negociation: They immediately gathered round +him, and continued in a body above an hour, without seeming to take any +farther notice of us. We were more curious than they, and observing them +with our glasses from on board the ship, we saw some of them cross the +river upon a kind of raft, or catamarine, and four of them carry off the +dead body which had been covered by the boy, and over which his uncle +had performed the ceremony of the branch, upon a kind of bier, between +four men: The other body was still suffered to remain where it had been +first left. + +<p>After dinner, I directed Tupia to ask the boys, if they had now any +objection to going ashore, where we had left their uncle, the body +having been carried off, which we understood was a ratification of +peace: They said, they had not; and the boat being ordered, they went +into it with great alacrity: When the boat, in which I had sent two +midshipmen, came to land, they went willingly ashore; but soon after she +put off, they returned to the rocks, and wading into the, water, +earnestly entreated to be taken on board again; but the people in the +boat, having positive orders to leave them, could not comply. We were +very attentive to what happened on shore, and keeping a constant watch +with our glasses, we saw a man pass the river upon another raft, and +fetch them to a place where forty or fifty of the natives were +assembled, who closed round them, and continued in the same place till +sun-set: Upon looking again, when we saw them in motion, we could +plainly distinguish our three prisoners, who separated themselves from +the rest, came down to the beach, and having waved their hands three +times towards the ship, ran nimbly back and joined their companions, who +walked leisurely away towards that part which the boys had pointed to as +their dwelling-place; we had therefore the greatest reason to believe +that no mischief would happen to them, especially as we perceived that +they went off in the clothes we had given them. + +<p>After it was dark, loud voices were heard on shore in the bottom of the +bay as usual, of which we could never learn the meaning.[50] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 50: It is remarked in the account of Tasman's voyage, that the +people of this island had very hoarse, rough, strong voices.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION XXII. + +<p><i>A Description of Poverty Bay, and the Face of the adjacent Country. The +Range from thence to Cape Turnagain, and back to Tolaga, with some +Account of the People and the Country, and several Incidents that +happened on that Part of the Coast</i>. + +<p>The next morning, at six o'clock, we weighed, and stood away from this +unfortunate and inhospitable place, to which I gave the name of <i>Poverty +Bay</i>, and which by the natives is called <i>Taoneroa</i>, or Long Sand, as it +did not afford us a single article that we wanted except a little wood. +It lies in latitude 38° 42' S. and longitude 181° 36' W.; it is in the +form of an horse-shoe, and is known by an island lying close under the +north-east point: The two points which form the entrance are high, with +steep white cliffs, and lie a league and a half, or two leagues, from +each other, N.E. by E. and S.W. by W.; the depth of water in the bay is +from twelve to five fathom, with a sandy bottom and good anchorage; but +the situation is open to the wind between the south and east: Boats can +go in and out of the river at any time of the tide in fine weather; but +as there is a bar at the entrance, no boat can go either in or out when +the sea runs high: The best place to attempt it, is on the north-east +side, and it is there practicable when it is not so in any other part. +The shore of the bay, a little within its entrance, is a low flat sand; +behind which, at a small distance, the face of the country is finely +diversified by hills and valleys, all clothed with wood, and covered +with verdure. The country also appears to be well inhabited, especially +in the valleys leading up from the bay, where we daily saw smoke rising +in clouds one behind another to a great distance, till the view +terminated in mountains of a stupendous height. + +<p>The south-west point of the bay I named <i>Young Nick's Head</i>, after +Nicholas Young, the boy who first saw the land; at noon, it bore N.W. by +W. distant about three or four leagues, and we were then about three +miles from the shore. The main-land extended from N.E. by N; to south, +and I proposed to follow the direction of the coast to the southward as +far as the latitude of 40 or 41; and then, if I met with no +encouragement to proceed farther, to return to the northward. + +<p>In the afternoon we lay becalmed, which the people on shore perceiving, +several canoes put off, and came within less than a quarter of a mile of +the vessel; but could not be persuaded to come nearer, though Tupia +exerted all the powers of his lungs and his eloquence upon the occasion, +shouting, and promising that they should not be hurt. Another canoe was +now seen coming from Poverty Bay, with only four people on board, one of +whom we well remembered to have seen in our first interview upon the +rock. This canoe, without stopping or taking the least notice of the +others, came directly alongside of the ship, and with very little +persuasion, we got the Indians on board. Their example was soon followed +by the rest, and we had about us seven canoes, and about fifty men. We +made them all presents with a liberal hand; notwithstanding which, they +were so desirous to have more of our commodities, that they sold us +every thing they had, even the clothes from their backs, and the paddles +from their boats. There were but two weapons among them, these were the +instruments of green talc, which were shaped somewhat like a pointed +battledore, with a short handle and sharp edges; they were called +<i>Patoo-Patoo</i>, and were well contrived for close-fighting, as they would +certainly split the thickest scull at a single blow. + +<p>When these people had recovered from the first impressions of fear, +which, notwithstanding their resolution in coming on board, had +manifestly thrown them into some confusion, we enquired after our poor +boys. The man who first came on board immediately answered, that they +were unhurt and at home; adding, that he had been induced to venture on +board by the account which they had given him of the kindness with which +they had been treated, and the wonders that were contained in the ship. + +<p>While they were on board they shewed every sign of friendship, and +invited us very cordially to go back to our old bay, or to a small cove +which they pointed out, that was not quite so far off; but I chose +rather to prosecute my discoveries than go back, having reason to hope +that I should find a better harbour than any I had yet seen. + +<p>About an hour before sun-set, the canoes put off from the ship with the +few paddles they had reserved, which were scarcely sufficient to set +them on shore; but by some means or other three of their people were +left behind: As soon as we discovered it, we hailed them; but not one of +them would return to take them on board: This greatly surprised us; but +we were surprised still more to observe that the deserted Indians did +not seem at all uneasy at their situation, but entertained us with +dancing and singing after their manner, eat their suppers, and went +quietly to bed. + +<p>A light breeze springing up soon after it was dark, we steered along the +shore under an easy sail till midnight, and then brought-to, soon after +which it fell calm; we were now some leagues distant from the place +where the canoes had left us, and at day-break, when the Indians +perceived it, they were seized with consternation and terror, and +lamented their situation in loud complaints, with gestures of despair +and many tears. Tupia, with great difficulty, pacified them; and about +seven o'clock in the morning, a light breeze springing up, we continued +to stand south-west along the shore. Fortunately for our poor Indians, +two canoes came off about this time, and made towards the ship: They +stopped, however, at a little distance, and seemed unwilling to trust +themselves nearer. Our Indians were greatly agitated in this state of +uncertainty, and urged their fellows to come alongside of the ship, both +by their voice and gestures, with the utmost eagerness and impatience. +Tupia interpreted what they said, and we were much surprised to find, +that, among other arguments, they assured the people in the canoes, we +did not eat men. We now began seriously to believe that this horrid +custom prevailed among them; for what the boys had said, we considered +as a mere hyperbolical expression of their fear.[51] One of the canoes, +at length, ventured to come under the ship's side; and an old man came +on board, who seemed to be a chief from the finery of his garment, and +the superiority of his weapon, which was a Patoo-Patoo, made of bone, +that, as he said, had belonged to a whale. He staid on board but a +short time, and when he went away, he took with him our guests, very +much to the satisfaction both of them and us. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 51: It is remarked in the account of Tasman's voyage, that the +people of this island had very hoarse, rough, strong voices.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At the time when we sailed, we were abreast of a point, from which the +land trends S.S.W. and which, on account of its figure, I called <i>Cape +Table</i>. This point lies seven leagues to the southward of Poverty Bay, +in latitude 39° 7' S. and longitude 181° 36' W.; it is of a considerable +height, makes in a sharp angle, and appears to be quite flat at the top. + +<p>In steering along the shore to the southward of the Cape, at the +distance of two or three miles, our soundings were from twenty to thirty +fathom, having a chain of rocks between us and the shore, which appeared +at different heights above the water. + +<p>At noon, Cape Table bore N. 20 E. distant about four leagues, and a +small island, which was the southernmost land in sight, bore S. 70 W. at +the distance of about three miles. This island, which the natives call +<i>Teahowray</i>, I named the <i>Island of Portland</i>, from its very great +resemblance to Portland in the English Channel: It lies about a mile +from a point on the main; but there appears to be a ridge of rocks, +extending nearly, if not quite, from one to the other. N. 57 E. two +miles from the south point of Portland, lies a sunken rock, upon which +the sea breaks with great violence. We passed between this rock and the +land, having from seventeen to twenty fathom. + +<p>In sailing along the shore, we saw the natives assembled in great +numbers as well upon Portland Island as the main: We could also +distinguish several spots of ground that were cultivated; some seemed to +be fresh turned up, and lay in furrows like ploughed land, and some had +plants upon them in different stages of their growth. We saw also in two +places, high rails upon the ridges of hills, like what we had seen upon +the peninsula at the north-east head of Poverty Bay: As they were ranged +in lines only, and not so as to inclose an area, we could not guess at +their use, and therefore supposed they might be the work of +superstition. + +<p>About noon another canoe appeared, in which were four men; she came +within about a quarter of a mile of us, where the people on board seemed +to perform divers ceremonies: One of them, who was in the bow, sometimes +seemed to ask and to offer peace, and sometimes to threaten war, by +brandishing a weapon that he held in his hand: Sometimes also he danced, +and sometimes he sung. Tupia talked much to him, but could not persuade +him to come to the ship. + +<p>Between one and two o'clock we discovered land to the westward of +Portland; extending to the southward as far as we could see; and as the +ship was hauling round the south end of the island, she suddenly fell +into shoal water and broken ground: We had indeed always seven fathom or +more, but the soundings were never twice the same, jumping at once from +seven fathom to eleven; in a short time, however, we got clear of all +danger, and had again deep water under us. + +<p>At this time the island lay within a mile of us, making in white cliffs, +and a long spit of low land running from it towards the main. On the +sides of these cliffs sat vast numbers of people, looking at us with a +fixed attention, and it is probable that they perceived some appearance +of hurry and confusion on board, and some irregularity in the working of +the ship, while we were getting clear of the shallow water and broken +ground, from which they might infer that we were alarmed or in distress; +we thought that they wished to take advantage of our situation, for five +canoes were put off with the utmost expedition, full of men, and well +armed: They came so near, and shewed so hostile a disposition by +shouting, brandishing their lances, and using threatening gestures, that +we were in some pain for our small boat, which was still employed in +sounding: A musket was therefore fired over them, but finding it did +them no harm, they seemed rather to be provoked than intimidated, and I +therefore fired a four-pounder, charged with grape-shot, wide of them: +This had a better effect; upon the report of the piece they all rose up +and shouted, but instead of continuing the chace, drew altogether, and +after a short consultation, went quietly away. + +<p>Having got round Portland, we hauled in for the land N.W. having a +gentle breeze at N.E. which about five o'clock died away, and obliged us +to anchor; we had one-and-twenty fathom, with a fine sandy bottom: The +south point of Portland bore S.E. 1/2 S. distant about two leagues, and +a low point on the main bore N. 1/2 E. In the same direction with this +low point, there runs a deep bay, behind the land of which Cape Table is +the extremity, so as to make this land a peninsula, leaving only a low +narrow neck between that and the main. Of this peninsula, which the +natives call <i>Terakaca</i>, Cape Table is the north point, and Portland the +south. + +<p>While we lay at anchor, two more canoes came off to us, one armed, and +the other a small fishing-boat, with only four men in her; they came so +near that they entered into conversation with Tupia; they answered all +the questions that he asked them with great civility, but could not be +persuaded to come on board; they came near enough, however, to receive +several presents that were thrown to them from the ship, with which they +seemed much pleased, and went away. During the night many fires were +kept upon shore, probably to shew us that the inhabitants were too much +upon their guard to be surprised. + +<p>About five o'clock in the morning of the 13th, a breeze springing up +northerly we weighed, and steered in for the land. The shore here forms +a large bay, of which Portland is the north-east point, and the bay, +that runs behind Cape Table, an arm. This arm I had a great inclination +to examine, because there appeared to be safe anchorage in it, but not +being sure of that, and the wind being right an end, I was unwilling to +spare the time. Four-and-twenty fathom was the greatest depth within +Portland, but the ground was every where clear. The land near the shore +is of a moderate height, with white cliffs and sandy beaches; within, it +rises into mountains, and upon the whole the surface is hilly, for the +most part covered with wood, and to appearance pleasant and fertile. In +the morning nine canoes came after the ship, but whether with peaceable +or hostile intentions we could not tell, for we soon left them behind +us. + +<p>In the evening we stood in for a place that had the appearance of an +opening, but found no harbour; we therefore stood out again, and were +soon followed by a large canoe, with eighteen or twenty men, all armed, +who, though they could not reach us, shouted defiance, and brandished +their weapons, with many gestures of menace and insult. + +<p>In the morning we had a view of the mountains inland, upon which the +snow was still lying: The country near the shore was low and unfit for +culture, but in one place we perceived a patch of somewhat yellow, which +had greatly the appearance of a corn field, yet was probably nothing +more than some dead flags, which are not uncommon in swampy places:[52] +At some distance we saw groves of trees, which appeared high and +tapering, and being not above two leagues from the south-west cod of the +great bay, in which we had been coasting for the two last days, I +hoisted out the pinnace and long-boat to search for fresh water; but +just as they were about to put off, we saw several boats full of people +coming from the shore, and therefore I did not think it safe for them to +leave the ship. About ten o'clock, five of these boats having drawn +together, as if to hold a consultation, made towards the ship, having on +board between eighty and ninety men, and four more followed at some +distance, as if to sustain the attack: When the first five came within +about a hundred yards of the ship, they began to sing their war-song, +and brandishing their pikes, prepared for an engagement. We had now no +time to lose, for if we could not prevent the attack, we should come +under the unhappy necessity of using our fire-arms against them, which +we were very desirous to avoid. Tupia was therefore ordered to acquaint +them that we had weapons which, like thunder, would destroy them in a +moment; that we would immediately convince them of their power by +directing their effect so that they should not be hurt; but that if they +persisted in any hostile attempt, we should be obliged to use them for +our defence: A four-pounder, loaded with grape-shot, was then discharged +wide of them, which produced the desired effect; the report, the flash, +and above all, the shot, which spread very far in the water, so +intimidated them, that they began to paddle away with all their might: +Tupia, however, calling after them, and assuring them that if they would +come unarmed, they should be kindly received, the people in one of the +boats put their arms on board of another, and came under the ship's +stern: We made them several presents, and should certainly have +prevailed upon them to come on board, if the other canoes had not, come +up, and again threatened us, by shouting and brandishing their weapons: +At this the people who had come to the ship unarmed, expressed great +displeasure, and soon after they all went away. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 52: The natives cultivate a plant much resembling flag. It is +their substitute for hemp and flax; and by their ingenuity of +management, yield them excellent clothing, and lines and cordage for +their fishing-nets and other useful purposes.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the afternoon we stood over to the south point of the bay, but not +reaching it before it was dark, we stood off and on all night. At eight +the next morning, being a-breast of the point, several fishing-boats +came off to us, and sold us some stinking fish: It was the best they +had, and we were willing to trade with them upon any terms: These people +behaved very well, and we should have parted good friends if it had not +been for a large canoe, with two-and-twenty armed men on board, which +came boldly up alongside of the ship. We soon saw that this boat had +nothing for traffic, yet we gave them two or three pieces of cloth, an +article which they seemed very fond of. I observed that one man had a +black skin thrown over him, somewhat resembling that of a bear, and +being desirous to know what animal was its first owner, I offered him +for it a piece of red baize, and he seemed greatly pleased with the +bargain, immediately pulling off the skin, and holding it up in the +boat;[53] he would not, however, part with it till he had the cloth in +his possession, and as there could be no transfer of property, if with +equal caution I had insisted upon the same condition, I ordered the +cloth to be handed down to him, upon which, with amazing coolness, +instead of sending up the skin, he began to pack up both that, and the +baize, which he had received as the purchase of it, in a basket, without +paying the least regard to my demand or remonstrances, and soon after, +with the fishing-boats, put off from the-ship; when they were at some +distance, they drew together, and after a short-consultation returned; +the fishermen offered more fish, which, though good for nothing, was +purchased, and trade was again renewed. Among others who were placed +over the ship's side to hand up what we bought, was little Tayeto, +Tupia's boy; and one of the Indians, watching his opportunity, suddenly +seized him, and dragged him down into the canoe; two of them held him +down in the fore-part of it, and the others, with great activity, +paddled her off, the rest of the canoes following as fast as they could; +upon this the marines, who were under arms upon deck, were ordered to +fire. The shot was directed to that part of the canoe which was farthest +from the boy, and rather wide of her, being willing rather to miss the +rowers than to hurt him: It happened, however, that one man dropped, +upon which the others quitted their hold of the boy, who instantly +leaped into the water, and swam towards the ship; the large canoe +immediately pulled round and followed him, but some muskets, and a great +gun being fired at her, she desisted from the pursuit. The ship being +brought-to, a boat was lowered, and the poor boy taken up unhurt, though +so terrified, that for a time he seemed to be deprived of his senses. +Some of the gentlemen, who traced the canoes to shore with their +glasses, said, that they saw three men carried up the beach, who +appeared to be either dead, or wholly disabled by their wounds. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 53: The principal clothing of these people is prepared from +the flag, as has been mentioned; but they greatly esteem the skins of +such animals as they can procure. These, however, are neither very +numerous nor valuable. They will be mentioned hereafter.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>To the cape off which this unhappy transaction happened, I gave the name +of <i>Cape Kidnappers</i>. It lies in latitude 39° 43', and longitude 182° +24' W. and is rendered remarkable by two white rocks like hay-stacks, +and the high white cliffs on each side. It lies S.W. by W. distant +thirteen leagues from the isle of Portland; and between them is the bay +of which it is the south point, and which, in honour of Sir Edward +Hawke, then First Lord of the Admiralty, I called <i>Hawke's Bay</i>. We +found in it from twenty-four to seven fathom, and good anchorage. From +Cape Kidnappers the land trends S.S.W. and in this direction we made our +run along the shore, keeping at about a league distance, with a steady +breeze and clear weather. + +<p>As soon as Tayeto recovered from his fright, he brought a fish to Tupia, +and told him that he intended it as an offering to his Eatua, or god, in +gratitude for his escape; Tupia commended his piety, and ordered him to +throw the fish into the sea, which was accordingly done.[54] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 54: This may be held as no small evidence that the Otaheitans +are not so disinterested in their devotion as Dr Hawkesworth imagined, +according to an assertion of his already commented on. Gratitude implies +the reception of a favour, and prayer the expectation of one. Religion +without interest is both unnatural and absurd. The very notion of +religion is humble reliance upon God. "Take this away," says Dr Magee +very justly, "and we become a race of independent beings, claiming as a +debt the reward of our good works; a sort of contracting party with the +Almighty, contributing nought to his glory, but anxious to maintain our +own independence, and our own rights." The lips of uninspired man never +spake more truth in one sentence. Let the aspiring moralist consider it +in its nature and consequences. If he obtain humility by the meditation, +he will feel the blessedness of a grateful heart.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>About two o'clock in the afternoon, we passed a small but high white +island lying close to the shore, upon which we saw many houses, boats, +and people. The people we concluded to be fishers, because the island +was totally barren; we saw several people also on shore, in a small bay +upon the main, within the island. At eleven, we brought-to till +day-light, and then made sail to the southward, along the shore. About +seven o'clock we passed a high point of land, which lies S.S.W. twelve +leagues from Cape Kidnappers: From this point the land trends +three-fourths of a point more to the westward; at ten, we saw more land +open to the southward, and at noon, the southermost land that was in +sight bore S. 39° W. distant eight or ten leagues, and a high bluff +head, with yellowish cliffs, bore W. distant about two miles: The depth +of water was thirty-two fathom. + +<p>In the afternoon we had a fresh breeze at west, and during the night +variable light airs and calms: In the morning a gentle breeze sprung up +between the N.W. and N.E. and having till now stood to the southward, +without seeing any probability of meeting with a harbour, and the +country manifestly altering for the worse, I thought that standing +farther in that direction would be attended with no advantage, but on +the contrary would be a loss of time that might be employed with a +better prospect of success in examining the coast to the northward; +about one, therefore, in the afternoon, I tacked, and stood north, with +a fresh breeze at west. The high bluff head, with yellowish cliffs, +which we were a-breast of at noon, I called Cape Turnagain, because here +we turned back. It lies in latitude 40° 34' S. longitude 182° 55' W., +distant eighteen leagues S.S.W. and S.S.W. 1/2 W. from Cape Kidnappers. +The land between them is of a very unequal height; in some places it is +lofty next the sea with white cliffs, in others low, with sandy beaches: +The face of the country is not so well clothed with wood as it is about +Hawke's bay, but looks more like our high downs in England: It is, +however, to all appearance, well inhabited, for as we stood along the +shore, we saw several villages, not only in the vallies, but on the tops +and sides of the hills, and smoke in many other places. The ridge of +mountains, which has been mentioned before, extends to the southward +farther than we could see, and was then every where chequered with snow. +At night we saw two fires inland, so very large, that we concluded they +must have been made to clear the land for tillage; but however that be, +they are a demonstration that the part of the country where they +appeared is inhabited. + +<p>On the 18th, at four o'clock in the morning, Cape Kidnappers bore N. 32 +W. distant two leagues: In this situation we had sixty-two fathom, and +when the Cape bore W. by N. distant three or four leagues, we had +forty-five fathom: In the mid-way between the isle of Portland and the +Cape we had sixty-five fathom. In the evening, being abreast of the +peninsula, within Portland island, called Terakako, a canoe came off +from that shore, and with much difficulty overtook the ship; there were +on board five people, two of whom appeared to be chiefs, and the other +three servants: The chiefs, with very little invitation, came on board, +and ordered the rest to remain in their canoe. We treated them with +great kindness, and they were not backward in expressing their +satisfaction; they went down into the cabin, and after a short time told +us that they had determined not to go on shore till the next morning. As +the sleeping on board was an honour which we neither expected nor +desired, I remonstrated strongly against it, and told them, that on +their account it would not be proper, as the ship would probably be at a +great distance from where she was then, the next morning: They +persisted, however, in their resolution, and as I found it impossible to +get rid of them without turning them by force out of the ship, I +complied: As a proper precaution, however, I proposed to take their +servants also on board, and hoist their canoe into the ship; they made +no objection, and this was accordingly done. The countenance of one of +these chiefs was the most open and ingenuous of all I have ever seen, +and I very soon gave up every suspicion of his having any sinister +design: They both examined every thing they saw with great curiosity and +attention, and received very thankfully such little presents as we made +them; neither of them, however, could be persuaded either to eat or +drink, but their servants devoured every thing they could get with great +voracity. We found that these men had heard of our kindness and +liberality to the natives who had been on board before, yet we thought +the confidence they placed in us an extraordinary instance of their +fortitude. At night I brought-to till day-light, and then made sail; at +seven in the morning, I brought-to again under Cape Table, and sent away +our guests with their canoe, who expressed some surprise at seeing +themselves so far from home, but landed a-breast of the ship. At this +time I saw other canoes putting off from the shore, but I stood away to +the northward without waiting for their coming up. + +<p>About three, I passed a remarkable head-land, which I called +Gable-End-Foreland, from the very great likeness of the white cliff at +the point to the gable-end of a house: It is not more remarkable for its +figure, than for a rock which rises like a spire at a little distance. +It lies from Cape Table N. 24 E. distant about twelve leagues. The shore +between them forms a bay, within which lies Poverty Bay, at the distance +of four leagues from the head-land, and eight from the Cape. At this +place three canoes came off to us, and one man came on board; we gave +him some trifles, and he soon returned to his boat, which, with all the +rest, dropped a-stern. + +<p>In the morning I made sail in shore, in order to look into two bays, +which appeared about two leagues to the northward of the Foreland; the +southernmost I could not fetch, but I anchored in the other about eleven +o'clock. + +<p>Into this bay we were invited by the people on board many canoes, who +pointed to a place where they said there was plenty of fresh water: I +did not find so good a shelter from the sea as I expected, but the +natives who came about us appearing to be of a friendly disposition, I +was determined to try whether I could not get some knowledge of the +country here before I proceeded farther to the northward. + +<p>In one of the canoes that came about us as soon as we anchored, we saw +two men, who by their habits appeared to be chiefs: One of them was +dressed in a jacket, which was ornamented after their manner, with dog's +skin; the jacket of the other was almost covered with small tufts of red +feathers. These men I invited on board, and they entered the ship with +very little hesitation: I gave each of them about four yards of linen, +and a spike nail; with the linen they were much pleased, but seemed to +set no value upon the nail. We perceived that they knew what had +happened in Poverty Bay, and we had therefore no reason to doubt but +they would behave peaceably; however, for further security, Tupia was +ordered to tell them for what purpose we came thither, and to assure +them that we would offer them no injury, if they offered none to us. In +the mean time those who remained in the canoes traded with our people +very fairly for what they happened to have with them: The chiefs, who +were old men, staid with us till we had dined, and about two o'clock I +put off with the boats, manned and armed, in order to go on shore in +search of water, and the two chiefs went into the boat with me. The +afternoon was tempestuous, with much rain, and the surf every where ran +so high, that although we rowed almost round the bay, we found no place +where we could land: I determined therefore to return to the ship, which +being intimated to the chiefs, they called to the people on shore, and +ordered a canoe to be sent off for themselves; this was accordingly +done, and they left us, promising to come on board again in the morning, +and bring us some fish and sweet-potatoes. + +<p>In the evening, the weather having become fair and moderate, the boats +were again ordered out, and I landed, accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr +Solander. We were received with great expressions of friendship by the +natives, who behaved with a scrupulous attention not to give offence. In +particular, they took care not to appear in great bodies: One family, or +the inhabitants of two or three houses only, were generally placed +together, to the number of fifteen or twenty, consisting of men, women, +and children. These little companies sat upon the ground, not advancing +towards us, but inviting us to them, by a kind of beckon, moving one +hand towards the breast. We made them several little presents; and in +our walk round the bay found two small streams of fresh water. This +convenience, and the friendly behaviour of the people, determined me to +stay at least a day, that I might fill some of my empty casks, and give +Mr Banks an opportunity of examining the natural produce of the country. + +<p>In the morning of the 21st, I sent Lieutenant Gore on shore, to +superintend the watering, with a strong party of men; and they were soon +followed by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, with Tupia, Tayeto, and four +others. + +<p>The natives sat by our people, and seemed pleased to observe them; but +did not intermix with them: They traded, however, chiefly for cloth, and +after a short time applied to their ordinary occupations, as if no +stranger had been among them. In the forenoon, several of their boats +went out a-fishing, and at dinner time every one repaired to his +respective dwelling; from which, after a certain time, he returned. +These fair appearances encouraged Mr Banks and Dr Solander to range the +bay with very little precaution, where they found many plants, and shot +some birds of exquisite beauty. In their walk, they visited several +houses of the natives, and saw something of their manner of life; for +they showed, without any reserve, every thing which the gentlemen +desired to see. They were sometimes found at their meals, which the +approach of the strangers never interrupted. Their food at this season +consisted of fish, with which, instead of bread, they eat the root of a +kind of fern, very like that which grows upon our commons in England. +These roots they scorch over the fire, and then beat with a stick, till +the bark and dry outside fall off; what remains is a soft substance, +somewhat clammy and sweet, not unpleasing to the taste, but mixed with +three or four times its quantity of strings and fibres, which are very +disagreeable; these were swallowed by some, but spit out by the far +greater number, who had baskets under them to receive the rejected part +of what had been chewed, which had an appearance very like that of +tobacco in the same state. In other seasons they have certainly plenty +of excellent vegetables; but no tame animals were seen among them except +dogs, which were very small and ugly. Mr Banks saw some of their +plantations, where the ground was as well broken down and tilled as even +in the gardens of the most curious people among us: In these spots were +sweet potatoes, coccos or eddas, which are well known and much esteemed +both in the East and West Indies, and some gourds: The sweet potatoes +were planted in small hills, some ranged in rows, and others in +quincunx, all laid by a line with the greatest regularity: The coccos +were planted upon flat land, but none of them yet appeared above ground; +and the gourds were set in small hollows, or dishes, much as in England. +These plantations were of different extent, from one or two acres to +ten: Taken together, there appeared to be from 150 to 200 acres in +cultivation in the whole bay, though we never saw an hundred people. +Each district was fenced in, generally with reeds, which were placed so +close together that there was scarcely room for a mouse to creep +between. + +<p>The women were plain, and made themselves more so by painting their +faces with red ochre and oil, which being generally fresh and wet upon +their cheeks and foreheads, was easily transferred to the noses of those +who thought fit to salute them; and that they were not wholly averse to +such familiarity, the noses of several of our people strongly testified: +They were, however, as great coquets as any of the most fashionable +ladies in Europe, and the young ones as skittish as an unbroken filly: +Each of them wore a petticoat, under which there was a girdle, made of +the blades of grass highly perfumed, and to the girdle was fastened a +small bunch of the leaves of some fragrant plant, which served their +modesty as its innermost veil.[55] The faces of the men were not so +generally painted, yet we saw one whose whole body, and even his +garments, were rubbed over with dry ochre, of which he kept a piece +constantly in his hand, and was every minute renewing the decoration in +one part or another, where he supposed it was become deficient.[56] In +personal delicacy they were not equal to our friends at Otaheite, for +the coldness of the climate did not invite them so often to bathe; but +we saw among them one instance of cleanliness in which they exceeded +them, and of which perhaps there is no example in any other Indian +nation. Every house, or every little cluster of three or four houses, +was furnished with a privy, so that the ground was every where clean. +The offals of their food, and other litter, were also piled up in +regular dunghills, which probably they made use of at a proper time for +manure. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 55: It is elsewhere said of these women, that, contrary to the +custom of the sex in general, they affected dress rather less than the +men. As to their modesty, let one fact related in the same place, be +allowed its legal influence.--Their innermost veil, as our author will +have it, was always bound fast round them, except when they went into +the water to catch lobsters, and then great care was taken that they +should not be seen by the other sex. "Some of us happening one day to +land upon a small island in Tolaga Bay, we surprised several of them at +this employment; and the chaste Diana, with her nymphs, could not have +discovered more confusion and distress at the sight of Actæon, than +these women expressed on our approach. Some of them hid themselves among +the rocks, and the rest crouched down in the sea till they had made +themselves a girdle and apron of such weeds as they could find, and when +they came out, even with this veil, we could perceive that their modesty +suffered much pain by our presence!" One fact of this kind speaks +volumes. The reader may glance over them at his leisure.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 56: It is elsewhere remarked, that the bodies of both sexes +are marked with the black stains called Amoco, like the tattowing of the +Otaheitans, but that the women are not so lavish in the decoration as +the men, and that whereas at Otaheite the breech is the choice spot for +the display of their beautifying ingenuity, in New Zealand, on the +contrary, it is almost entirely neglected as unworthy of embellishment. +So much for the capricious partiality of dame Fashion.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In this decent article of civil oeconomy they were beforehand with one +of the most considerable nations of Europe, for I am credibly informed, +that, till the year 1760, there was no such thing as a privy in Madrid, +the metropolis of Spain, though it is plentifully supplied with water. +Before that time it was the universal practice to throw the ordure out +of the windows, during the night, into the street, where numbers of men +were employed to remove it, with shovels, from the upper parts of the +city to the lower, where it lay till it was dry, and was then carried +away in carts, and deposited without the gates. His catholic majesty, +having determined to free his capital from so gross a nuisance, ordered, +by proclamation, that the proprietor of every house should build a +privy, and that sinks, drains, and common-sewers should he made at the +public expence. The Spaniards, though long accustomed to an arbitrary +government; resented this proclamation with great spirit, as an +infringement of the common rights of mankind, and made a vigorous +struggle against its being carried into execution. Every class devised +some objection against it, but the physicians bade the fairest to +interest the king in the preservation of the ancient privileges of his +people; for they remonstrated, that if the filth was not, as usual, +thrown into the streets, a fatal sickness would probably ensue, because +the putrescent particles of the air, which such filth attracted, would +then be imbibed by the human body. But this expedient, with every other +that could be thought of, proved unsuccessful, and the popular +discontent then ran so high that it was very near producing an +insurrection; his majesty, however, at length prevailed, and Madrid is +now as clear as most of the considerable cities in Europe. But many of +the citizens, probably upon the principles advanced by their physicians, +that heaps of filth prevent deleterious particles of air from fixing +upon neighbouring substances, have, to keep their food wholesome, +constructed their privies by the kitchen fire.[57] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 57: It is a little singular, that Dr Hawkesworth did not +adduce a similar instance of negligence, in a certain Northern Capital. +The English, not much averse, at the time of the publication, to +depreciate and despise their neighbours, would certainly have relished +it vastly--for, as Swift somewhere wittily observes, your men of nice +taste have very filthy ideas. That the city alluded to has improved +much, within the last half century, is but to lump it with almost all +the other cities and towns in Britain, of which the same thing may be +predicated. Still, however, it is chargeable with glaring sins of both +omission and commission; and it is certain, that the vigilance of its +police has hitherto been insufficient to vindicate its cleanliness. One +might incline to think, that the prejudice in favour of bad smells had +not quite abandoned the inhabitants, who could allow for months, and +that even in the consummating fervour of the summer sun, and in open +despite of his face too, of putrifying dunghills within the precincts of +their city. It is a certain fact that such a receptacle of filth, of the +largest size, is established in all its amplitude of abomination on the +west side of it, and often emits its pestilential spirit on the whole +track of one of its <i>principal</i> streets. Such things ought not to be, +and would not, if people used their heads as well as their noses.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the evening, all our boats being employed in carrying the water, on +board, and Mr Banks and his company finding it probable that they should +be left on shore after it was dark, by which much time would be lost, +which they were impatient to employ in putting the plants they had +gathered in order, they applied to the Indians for a passage in one of +their canoes: They immediately consented, and a canoe was launched for +their use. They went all on board, being eight in number, but not being +used to a vessel that required so even a balance, they unfortunately +overset her in the surf: No life however was lost, but it was thought +advisable that half of them should wait for another turn. Mr Banks, Dr +Solander, Tupia, and Tayeto embarked again, and without any farther +accident arrived safely at the ship, well pleased with the good nature +of their Indian friends, who cheerfully undertook to carry them a second +time, after having experienced how unfit a freight they were for such a +vessel. + +<p>While these gentlemen were on shore, several of the natives went off to +the ship, and trafficked, by exchanging their cloth for that of +Otaheite: Of this barter they were for some time very fond, preferring +the Indian cloth to that of Europe: But before night it decreased in its +value five hundred per cent. Many of these Indians I took on board, and +shewed them the ship and her apparatus, at which they expressed equal +satisfaction and astonishment. + +<p>As I found it exceedingly difficult to get water on board on account of +the surf, I determined to stay no longer at this place; on the next +morning, therefore, about five o'clock, I weighed anchor and put to sea. + +<p>This bay, which is called by the natives <i>Tegadoo</i>, lies in the latitude +of 38° 10' S.; but as it has nothing to recommend it, a description of +it is unnecessary. + +<p>From this bay I intended to stand on to the northward, but the wind +being right against me, I could make no way. While I was beating about +to windward, some of the natives came on board, and told me, that in a +bay which lay a little to the southward, being the same that I could not +fetch the day I put into Tegadoo, there was excellent water, where the +boats might land without a surf. I thought it better therefore to put +into this bay, where I might complete my water, and form farther +connections with the Indians, than to keep the sea. With this view I +bore up for it, and sent in two boats, manned and armed, to examine the +watering place, who, confirming the report of the Indians at their +return, I came to an anchor about one o'clock, in eleven fathom water, +with a fine sandy bottom, the north point of the bay N. by E. and the +south point S.E. The watering-place, which was in a small cove a little +within the south point of the bay, bore S. by E. distant about a mile, +many canoes came immediately off from the shore, and all traded very +honestly for Otaheite cloth and glass bottles, of which they were +immoderately fond. + +<p>In the afternoon of the 23d, as soon as the ship was moored, I went on +shore to examine the watering-place, accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr +Solander: The boat landed in the cove, without the least surf; the water +was excellent, and conveniently situated; there was plenty of wood close +to high-water mark, and the disposition of the people was in every +respect such as we could wish. + +<p>Having, with Mr Green, taken several observations of the sun and moon, +the mean result of them gave 180° 47' W. longitude; but, as all the +observations made before exceeded these, I have laid down the coast from +the mean of the whole. At noon, I took the sun's meridian altitude with +an astronomical quadrant, which was set up at the watering-place, and +found the latitude to be 38° 22' 24". + +<p>On the 24th, early in the morning, I sent Lieutenant Gore on shore, to +superintend the cutting of wood and filling of water, with a sufficient +number of men for both purposes, and all the marines as a guard. After +breakfast, I went on shore myself, and continued there the whole day. + +<p>Mr Banks and Dr Solander also went on shore to gather plants, and in +their walks saw several things worthy of notice. They met with many +houses in the vallies that seemed to be wholly deserted, the people +living on the ridges of the hills in a kind of sheds very slightly +built. As they were advancing in one of these vallies, the hills on each +side of which were very steep, they were suddenly struck with the sight +of a very extraordinary natural curiosity. It was a rock, perforated +through its whole substance, so as to form a rude but stupendous arch or +cavern, opening directly to the sea; this aperture was seventy-five feet +long, twenty-seven broad, and five-and-forty high, commanding a view of +the bay and the hills on the other side, which were seen through it, +and, opening at once upon the view, produced an effect far superior to +any of the contrivances of art. + +<p>As they were returning to the watering-place in the evening, they met an +old man, who detained them some time by shewing them the military +exercises of the country with the lance and Patoo-Patoo, which are all +the weapons in use. The lance is from ten to fourteen feet long, made of +a very hard wood, and sharp at both ends: The Patoo-Patoo has been +described already, it is about a foot long, made of talc or bone, with +sharp edges, and used as a battle-axe. A post or stake was set up as his +enemy, to which he advanced with a must furious aspect, brandishing his +lance, which he grasped with great firmness; when it was supposed to +have been pierced by his lance, he ran at it with his Patoo-Patoo, and +falling upon the upper end of it, which was to represent his adversary's +head, he laid on with great vehemence, striking many blows, any one of +which would probably have split the skull of an ox. From our champion's +falling upon his mock enemy with the Patoo-Patoo, after he was supposed +to have been pierced with the lance, our gentlemen inferred, that in the +battles of this country there is no quarter. + +<p>This afternoon, we set up the armourer's forge, to repair the braces of +the tiller which had been broken, and went on getting our wood and +water, without suffering the least molestation from the natives; who +came down with different sorts of fish, which we purchased with cloth, +beads, and glass bottles, as usual. + +<p>On the 25th, Mr Banks and Dr Solander went again on shore; and while +they were searching for plants, Tupia staid with the waterers: Among +other Indians who came down to them was a priest, with whom Tupia +entered into a very learned conversation. In their notions of religion +they seemed to agree very well, which is not often the case between +learned divines on our side of the ocean: Tupia, however, seemed to have +the most knowledge, and he was listened to with great deference and +attention by the other. In the course of this conversation, after the +important points of divinity had been settled, Tupia enquired if it was +their practice to eat men, to which they answered in the affirmative; +but said that they eat only their enemies who were slain in battle.[58] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 58: There is some reason, however, to believe that they make +battle in order that they may have enemies to eat. It is something like +the plea of the slave-dealers. They took those only who had been made +prisoners in war, and who would be butchered if not thus disposed of. +But who occasioned the wars which brought these miserable beings into +the hands of their enemies? There's the rub.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 26th, it rained all day, so that none of us could go ashore; and +very few of the Indians came either to the watering-place or the ship. + +<p>On the 27th, I went with Dr Solander to examine the bottom of the bay; +but though we went ashore at two places, we met with little worth +notice. The people behaved very civilly, shewing us every thing that we +expressed a desire to see. Among other trifling curiosities which Dr +Solander purchased of them, was a boy's top, shaped exactly like those +which children play with in England; and they made signs, that to make +it spin it was to be whipped. Mr Banks in the mean time went ashore at +the watering-place, and climbed a hill which stood at a little distance +to see a fence of poles, which we had observed from the ship, and which +had been much the subject of speculation. The hill was extremely steep, +and rendered almost inaccessible by wood; yet he reached the place, near +which he found many houses that for some reason had been deserted by +their inhabitants. The poles appeared to be about sixteen feet high; +they were placed in two rows, with a space of about six feet between +them, and the poles in each row were about ten feet distant from each +other. The lane between them was covered by sticks, that were set up +sloping towards each other from the top of the poles on each side, like +the roof of a house. This rail-work, with a ditch that was parallel to +it, was carried about a hundred yards down the hill in a kind of curve; +but for what purpose we could not guess. + +<p>The Indians, at the watering-place, at our request, entertained us with +their war-song, in which the women joined, with the most horrid +distortions of countenance, rolling their eyes, thrusting out their +tongues, and often heaving loud and deep sighs; though all was done in +very good time. + +<p>On the 28th, we went ashore upon an island that lies to the left hand of +the entrance of the bay, where we saw the largest canoe that we had yet +met with: She was sixty-eight feet and a half long, five broad, and +three feet six high; she had a sharp bottom, consisting of three trunks +of trees hollowed, of which that in the middle was the longest: The +side-planks were sixty-two feet long in one piece, and were not +despicably carved in bas relief; the head also was adorned with carving +still more richly. Upon this island there was a larger house than any we +had yet seen; but it seemed unfinished and was full of chips. The wood +work was squared so even and smooth, that we made no doubt of their +having among them very sharp tools. The sides of the posts were carved +in a masterly style, though after their whimsical taste, which seems to +prefer spiral lines and distorted faces: As these carved posts appeared +to have been brought from some other place, such work is probably of +great value among them. + +<p>At four o'clock in the morning of the 29th, having got on board our wood +and water, and a large supply of excellent celery, with which the +country abounds, and which proved a powerful antiscorbutic, I unmoored +and put to sea. + +<p>This bay is called by the natives Tolaga; it is moderately large, and +has from seven to thirteen fathom, with a clean sandy bottom and good +anchorage; and is sheltered from all winds except the north-east. It +lies in latitude 38° 22' S. and four leagues and a half to the north of +Gable-end Foreland. On the south point lies a small but high island, so +near the main as not to be distinguished from it. Close to the north end +of the island, at the entrance into the bay, are two high rocks; one is +round like a corn-stack, but the other is long, and perforated in +several places, so that the openings appear like the arches of a bridge. +Within these rocks is the cove where we cut wood, and filled our +water-casks. Off the north point of the bay is a pretty high rocky +island; and about a mile without it, are some rocks and breakers. The +variation of the compass here is 14° 31' E., and the tide flows at the +full and change of the moon, about six o'clock, and rises and falls +perpendicularly from five to six feet: Whether the flood comes from the +southward or the northward I have not been able to determine. + +<p>We got nothing here by traffic but a few fish, and some sweet potatoes, +except a few trifles, which we considered merely as curiosities. We saw +no four-footed animals, not the appearance of any, either tame or wild, +except dogs and rats, and these were very scarce: The people eat the +dogs, like our friends at Otaheite; and adorn their garments with the +skins, as we do ours with fur and ermine. I climbed many of the hills, +hoping to get a view of the country, but I could see nothing from the +top except higher hills, in a boundless succession. The ridges of these +hills produce little besides fern; but the sides are most luxuriantly +clothed with wood, and verdure of various kinds, with little plantations +intermixed. In the woods, we found trees of above twenty different +sorts, and carried specimens of each on board; but there was nobody +among us to whom they were not altogether unknown. The tree which we cut +for firing was somewhat like our maple, and yielded a whitish gum. We +found another sort of it of a deep yellow, which we thought might be +useful in dying. We found also one cabbage tree, which we cut down for +the cabbages. The country abounds with plants, and the woods with birds, +in an endless variety, exquisitely beautiful, and of which none of us +had the least knowledge. The soil, both of the hills and vallies, is +light and sandy, and very fit for the production of all kinds of roots; +though we saw none except sweet potatoes and yams. + +<p>SECTION XXIII. + +<p><i>The Range from Tolaga to Mercury Bay, with an Account of many Incidents +that happened both on board and ashore: A Description of several Views +exhibited by the Country, and of the Heppahs, or fortified Villages of +the Inhabitants</i>. + +<p>On Monday the 30th, about half an hour after one o'clock, having made +sail again to the northward for about ten hours, with a light breeze, I +hauled round a small island which lay east one mile from the north-east +point of the land: From this place I found the land trend away N.W. by +W. and W.N.W. as far as I could see, this point being the eastermost +land on the whole coast. I gave it the name of East Cape, and I called +the island that lies off it East Island; it is of a small circuit, high +and round, and appears white and barren: The Cape is high, with white +cliffs, and lies in latitude 37° 42' 30" S. and longitude 181° W. The +land from Tolaga Bay to East Cape is of a moderate, but unequal height, +forming several small bays, in which are sandy beaches: Of the inland +country we could not see much, the weather being cloudy and hazy. The +soundings were from twenty to thirty fathom at the distance of about a +league from the shore. After we had rounded the Cape, we saw in our run +along the shore a great number of villages, and much cultivated land; +the country in general appeared more fertile than before, and was low +near the sea, but hilly within. At six in the evening, being four +leagues to the westward of East Cape, we passed a bay which was first +discovered by Lieutenant Hicks, and which therefore I called Hicks's +Bay. At eight in the evening, being eight leagues to the westward of the +Cape, and three or four miles from the shore, I shortened sail, and +brought-to for the night, having at this time a fresh gale at S.S.E. and +squally; but it soon became moderate, and at two in the morning, we made +sail again to the S.W. as the land now trended; and at eight o'clock in +the morning, saw land, which made like an island, bearing west, the +south-westermost part of the main bearing south-west; and about nine no +less than five canoes came off, in which were more than forty men, all +armed with their country pikes and battle-axes, shouting and threatening +an attack; this gave us great uneasiness, and was indeed what we did not +expect; for we hoped, that the report both of our power and clemency had +spread to a greater extent. When one of these canoes had almost reached +the ship, another, of an immense size, the largest that we had yet seen, +crowded with people, who were also armed, put off from the shore, and +came up at a great rate; as it approached it received signals from the +canoe that was nearest to the ship, and we could see that it had sixteen +paddles on a side, beside people that sat, and others that stood in a +row from stem to stern, being in all about sixty men: As they made +directly to the ship, we were desirous of preventing an attack, by +showing what we could do; and therefore fired a gun, loaded with +grape-shot, a-head of them: This made them stop, but not retreat; a +round shot was then fired over them, and upon seeing it fall, they +seized their paddles and made towards the shore with such precipitation, +that they seemed scarcely to allow themselves time to breathe. In the +evening, three or four more canoes came off unarmed; but they would not +venture within a musket-shot of the vessel. The Cape, off which we had +been threatened with hostilities, I called, from the hasty retreat of +the enemy, Cape Runaway. It lies in latitude 37° 32'; longitude 181° +48'. In this day's run, we found that the land, which made like an +island in the morning, bearing west, was so; and we gave it the name of +White Island. + +<p>At day-break on the 1st of November, we counted no less than +five-and-forty canoes that were coming from the shore towards the ship: +Seven of them came up with us, and after some conversation with Tupia, +sold us some lobsters and muscles, and two conger eels. These people +traded pretty fairly: When they were gone, some others came off from +another place, who began also to trade fairly; but after some time they +look what was handed down to them, without making any return; one of +them who had done so, upon being threatened, began to laugh, and with +many marks of derision set us at defiance, at the same time putting off +the canoe from the ship: A musket was then fired over his head, which +brought him back in a more serious mood, and trade went on with great +regularity. At length, when the cabin and gun-room had got as much as +they wanted, the men were allowed to come to the gangway, and trade for +themselves. Unhappily the same care was not taken to prevent frauds as +had been taken before, so that the Indians, finding that they could +cheat with impunity, grew insolent again, and proceeded to take greater +liberties. One of the canoes, having sold every thing on board, pulled +forward, and the people that were in her seeing some linen hang over the +ship's side to dry, one of them, without any ceremony, untied it, and +put it up in his bundle: He was immediately called to, and required to +return it; instead of which, he let his canoe drop astern, and laughed +at us: A musket was fired over his head, which, did not put a stop to +his mirth; another was then fired at him with small shot, which struck +him upon the back; he, shrunk a little when the shot hit him, but did +not regard it more than one of our men would have done the stroke of a +rattan: He continued with great composure to pack up the linen that he +had stolen. All the canoes now dropped astern about a hundred yards, and +all set up their song of defiance, which they continued till the ship +was distant from them about four hundred yards. As they seemed to have +no design to attack us, I was not willing to do them any hurt; yet I +thought their going off in a bravado might have a bad effect when it +should be reported ashore. To show them therefore that they were still +in our power, though very much beyond the reach of any missile weapon +with which they were acquainted, I gave the ship a yaw, and fired a +four-pounder so as to pass near them. The shot happened to strike the +water, and rise several times at a great distance beyond the canoes; +This struck them with terror, and they paddled away without once looking +behind them. + +<p>About two in the afternoon, we saw a pretty high island bearing west +from us; and at five, saw more islands and rocks to the westward of +that. We hauled our wind in order to go without them, but could not +weather them before it was dark. I therefore bore up, and ran between +them and the main. At seven, I was close under the first, from which a +large double canoe, or rather two canoes lashed together at the distance +of about a foot, and covered with boards so as to make a deck, put off, +and made sail for the ship: This was the first vessel of the kind that +we had seen since we left the South Sea islands. When she came near, the +people on board entered very freely into conversation with Tupia, and, +we thought, showed a friendly disposition; but when it was just dark, +they ran their canoe close to the ship's side, and threw in a volley of +stones, after which they paddled ashore. + +<p>We learnt from Tupia, that the people in the canoe called the island +which we were under Mowtohora; it is but of a small circuit, though +high, and lies six miles from the main; on the south side is anchorage +in fourteen fathom water. Upon the main land, S.W. by W. of this island, +and apparently at no great distance from the sea, is a high round +mountain, which I called Mount Edgecumbe: it stands in the middle of a +large plain, and is therefore the more conspicuous; latitude 37° 59', +longitude 183° 7'. + +<p>In standing westward, we suddenly shoaled our water from seventeen to +ten fathom; and knowing that we were not far from the small islands and +rocks which we had seen before dark, and which I intended to have passed +before I brought-to for the night, I thought it more prudent to tack, +and spend the night under Mowtohora, where I knew there was no danger. +It was indeed happy for us that we did so; for in the morning, after we +had made sail to the westward, we discovered a-head of us several rocks, +some of which were level with the surface of the water, and some below +it: They lay N.N.E. from Mount Edgecumbe, one league and a half distant +from the island Mowtohora, and about nine miles from the main. We passed +between these rocks and the main, having from ten to seven fathom +water. + +<p>This morning, many canoes and much people were seen along the shore; +several of the canoes followed us, but none of them could reach us, +except one with a sail, which proved to be the same that had pelted us +the night before. The people on board again entered into conversation +with Tupia; but we expected another volley of their ammunition, which +was not indeed dangerous to any thing but the cabin windows. They +continued abreast of the ship about an hour, and behaved very peaceably; +but at last the salute which we expected was given; we returned it by +firing a musquet over them, and they immediately dropped astern and left +us, perhaps rather satisfied with having given a test of their courage +by twice insulting a vessel so much superior to their own, than +intimidated by the shot. + +<p>At half an hour after ten, we passed between a low flat island and the +main: The distance from one to the other was about four miles, and the +depth of water from ten to twelve fathom. The main land between this +flat island and Mowtohora is of a moderate height, but level, pretty +clear of wood, and full of plantations and villages. The villages, which +were larger than any we had yet seen, were built upon eminences near the +sea, and fortified on the land side by a bank and ditch, with a high +paling within it, which was carried all round: Beside a bank, ditch, and +pallisadoes, some of them appeared to have out-works. Tupia had a notion +that the small inclosures of pallisadoes, and a ditch that we had seen +before, were Morais, or places of worship; but we were of opinion that +they were forts, and concluded that these people had neighbouring +enemies, and were always exposed to hostile attacks.[59] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 59: The latter opinion was the more correct, as might be +readily shewn; but it is not purposed to treat of the subject till we +come to the account of the 3d voyage.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At two o'clock we passed a small high island, lying four miles from a +high round head upon the main. From this head the land trends N.W. as +far as can be seen, and has a rugged and hilly appearance. As the +weather was hazy, and the wind blew fresh on the shore, we hauled off +for the weathermost island in sight, which bore from us N.N.E. distant +about six or seven leagues. + +<p>Under this island, which I have called the <i>Mayor</i>, we spent the night. +At seven in the morning it bore S. 47 E. distant six leagues, and a +cluster of small islands and rocks bore N. 1/2 E. distant one league, to +which I gave the name of the <i>Court of Aldermen</i>. They lie in the +compass of about half a league every way, and five leagues from the +main, between which and them lie other islands, most of them barren +rocks, of which there is great variety: Some of them are as small in +compass as the Monument of London, but rise to a much greater height, +and some of them are inhabited. They lie in latitude 36° 57', and at +noon bore S. 60 E. distant three or four leagues; and a rock like a +castle, lying not far from the main, bore N. 40 W. at the distance of +one league. The country that we passed the night before, appeared to be +well inhabited, many towns were in sight, and some hundreds of large +canoes lay under them upon the beach; but this day, after having sailed +about fifteen leagues, it appeared to be barren and desolate. As far as +we had yet coasted this country from Cape Turnagain, the people +acknowledged one Chief, whom they called Teratu, and to whose residence +they pointed, in a direction that we thought to be very far inland, but +afterwards found to be otherwise. + +<p>About one o'clock three canoes came off to us from the main, with +one-and-twenty men on board. The construction of these vessels appeared +to be more simple than that of any we had seen, they being nothing more +than trunks of a single tree hollowed by fire, without any convenience +or ornament. The people on board were almost naked, and appeared to be +of a browner complexion; yet naked and despicable as they were, they +sung their song of defiance, and seemed to denounce against us +inevitable destruction: They remained, however, some time out of stones +throw, and then venturing nearer, with less appearance of hostility, one +of our men went to the ship side, and was about to hand them a rope; +this courtesy, however, they thought fit to return by throwing a lance +at him, which having missed him, they immediately threw another into the +ship: Upon this a musquet was fired over them, which at once sent them +away.[60] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 60: We are elsewhere told, that "When they were at too great a +distance to reach us with a lance, or a stone, they presumed that we had +no weapon with which we could reach them; here then the defiance was +given, and the words were almost universally the same, <i>Haromai, +haromai, harre uta a Patoo-Patoo oge</i>: Come to us, come on shore, and +we will kill you all with our Patoo-Patoos." The language of defiance +and bravado we see is pretty much the same throughout the world. Certain +Europeans, however, excel vastly in the ingenuity and brilliancy with +which they puff it off with oaths and curses; in this most courageous +invention, they as much surpass the mere savages as they do in +instruments of death. Indeed this co-superiority is in excellent +harmony. Our great poet Milton makes no scruple, of course, to ascribe +both offensive means to the inhabitants of the fiery gulph. See the 6th +book of his immortal work for the origin of one, and the whole of the +book, where the arch enemy makes speeches, for specimens of the other. +Milton's devils, however, very commonly preserve a dignified decorum in +their wrath--an indication, by the bye, of his judicious care to +maintain consistency in his characters.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>About two, we saw a large opening, or inlet, for which we bore up; we +had now forty-one fathom water, which gradually decreased to nine, at +which time we were one mile and a half distant from a high towered rock +which lay near the south point of the inlet: This rock and the +northermost of the Court of Aldermen being in one, bearing S. 61 E. + +<p>About seven in the evening we anchored in seven fathom, a little within +the south entrance of the bay: To this place we were accompanied by +several canoes and people like those we had seen last, and for some time +they behaved very civilly. While they were hovering about us, a bird was +shot from the ship, as it was swimming upon the water: At this they +shewed less surprise than we expected, and taking up the bird, they tied +it to a fishing line that was towing a-stern; as an acknowledgment for +this favour we gave them a piece of cloth: But notwithstanding this +effect of our fire-arms, and this interchange of civilities, as soon as +it grew dark, they sung their war song, and attempted to tow away the +buoy of the anchor. Two or three musquets were then fired over them, but +this seemed rather to make them angry than afraid, and they went away, +threatening that to-morrow they would return with more force, and be the +death of us all; at the same time sending off a boat, which they told us +was going to another part of the bay for assistance. + +<p>There was some appearance of generosity, as well as courage, in +acquainting us with the time when they intended to make their attack; +but they forfeited all credit which this procured them, by coming +secretly upon us in the night, when they certainly hoped to find us +asleep: Upon approaching the ship they found themselves mistaken, and +therefore retired without speaking a word, supposing that they were too +early; after some time they came a second time, and being again +disappointed, they retired as silently as before.[61] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 61: It may not be difficult, perhaps, to explain the conduct +of these people in the case now stated, on principles pretty well +ascertained by observation on different classes of mankind. These +islanders have advanced a certain step towards civilization; this is +indicated by the regularity of their conduct, as pointed to some +particular object of general interest; by their being influenced to +emulate one another in the operations of either real or fictitious +warfare, which of course implies free and extensive social intercourse; +and by the cultivation of land, and the useful though not numerous +domestic arts of cookery, and the making of nets and cloth, &c.--not to +mention their music and dancing. In consequence of this progress, they +are excited by the love of property to the display of courage as +necessary for its preservation, and, it seems, often required against +rival or more needy tribes. But their advancement has not been so great +as to destroy or counteract the treacherousness of disposition so common +to savages, whose minds are too intent on objects of desire or +resentment to allow place for reflection on the propriety or impropriety +of the means of attaining them, and whose whole morality, in short, +consists of appetites and indulgence. Hence, on the one hand, a +magnanimity which avows and boasts of its enmity, and on the other, a +cunning which seeks to gratify that feeling by artifices calculated to +put those who are the objects of it, off their guard against its +violence. They would be generous in their hate as well as in their love; +but the evil propensities of their lower life, check the virtues of the +higher. Thus they lose the merit of their valour by the meanness of +their deceit. Their inconsistency renders them more formidable than +either.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the morning, at day-break, they prepared to effect by force what they +had in vain attempted by stealth and artifice: No less than twelve +canoes came against us, with about a hundred and fifty men, all armed +with pikes, lances, and stones. As they could do nothing till they came +very near the ship, Tupia was ordered to expostulate with them, and, if +possible, divert them from their purpose: During the conversation they +appeared to be sometimes friendly and sometimes otherwise; at length, +however, they began to trade, and we offered to purchase their weapons, +which some of them consented to sell: They sold two very fairly, but +having received what had been agreed upon for the purchase of a third, +they refused to send it up, but offered it for a second price; a second +was sent down, but the weapon was still detained, and a demand made of a +third; this being refused with some expressions of displeasure and +resentment, the offender, with many ludicrous tokens of contempt and +defiance, paddled his canoe off a few yards from the ship. As I intended +to continue in this place five or six days, in order to make an +observation of the transit of Mercury, it was absolutely necessary, in +order to prevent future mischief, to shew these people that we were not +to be treated ill with impunity; some small shot were therefore fired at +the thief, and a musquet-ball through the bottom of his boat: Upon this +it was paddled to about a hundred yards distance, and to our great +surprise the people in the other canoes took not the least notice of +their wounded companion, though he bled very much, but returned to the +ship, and continued to trade with the most perfect indifference and +unconcern. They sold us many more of their weapons without making any +other attempt to defraud us, for a considerable time; at last, however, +one of them thought fit to paddle away with two different pieces of +cloth which had been given for the same weapon: When he had got about an +hundred yards distance, and thought himself secure of his prize, a +musket was fired after him, which fortunately struck the boat just at +the water's edge, and made two holes in her side; this only incited them +to ply their paddles with greater activity, and the rest of the canoes +also made off with the utmost expedition. As the last proof of our +superiority, therefore, we fired a round shot over them, and not a boat +stopped till they got on shore. + +<p>About ten o'clock, I went with two boats to sound the bay, and look out +for a more convenient anchoring-place, the master being in one boat and +myself in the other. We pulled first over to the north shore, from which +some canoes came out to meet us; as we advanced, however, they retired, +inviting us to follow them: But, seeing them all armed, I did not think +it proper to comply, but went towards the head of the bay, where I +observed a village upon a very high point, fortified in the manner that +has been already described, and having fixed upon an anchoring place not +far from where the ship lay, I returned on board. + +<p>At three o'clock in the afternoon, I weighed, run in nearer to the +shore, and anchored in four fathom and a half water, with a soft sandy +bottom, the south point of the bay bearing E. distant one mile, and a +river which the boats can enter at low water S.S.E. distant a mile and a +half. + +<p>In the morning, the natives came off again to the ship, and we had the +satisfaction to observe that their behaviour was very different from +what it had been yesterday: Among them was an old man, whom we had +before remarked for his prudence and honesty: His name was <i>Toiava</i>, and +he seemed to be a person of a superior rank; in the transactions of +yesterday morning he had behaved with great propriety and good sense, +lying in a small canoe, always near the ship, and treating those on +board as if he neither intended a fraud nor suspected an injury: With +some persuasion this man and another came on board, and ventured into +the cabin, where I presented each of them with a piece of English cloth +and some spike nails. They told us that the Indians were now very much +afraid of us, and on our part we promised friendship if they would +behave peaceably, desiring only to purchase what they had to sell upon +their own terms. + +<p>After the natives had left us, I went with the pinnace and long-boat +into the river with a design to haul the seine, and sent the master in +the yawl to sound the bay and dredge for fish. The Indians who were on +one side of the river, expressed their friendship by all the signs they +could devise, beckoning us to land among them; but we chose to go ashore +on the other side, as the situation was more convenient for hauling the +seine and shooting birds, of which we saw great numbers of various +kinds: The Indians, with much persuasion, about noon, ventured over to +us. With the seine we had very little success, catching only a few +mullets, neither did we get any thing by the trawl or the dredge, except +a few shells; but we shot several birds, most of them resembling +sea-pies, except that they had black plumage, and red bills and feet. +While we were absent with our guns, the people who staid by the boats +saw two of the Indians quarrel and fight: They began the battle with +their lances, but some old men interposed and took them away, leaving +them to decide the difference, like Englishmen, with their fists: They +boxed with great vigour and obstinacy for some time, but by degrees all +retired behind a little hill, so that our people could not see the event +of the combat. + +<p>In the morning the long-boat was sent again to trawll in the bay, and an +officer, with the marines, and a party of men, to cut wood and haul the +seine. The Indians on shore appeared very peaceable and submissive, and +we had reason to believe that their habitations were at a considerable +distance, for we saw no houses, and found that they slept under the +bushes: The bay is probably a place to which they frequently resort in +parties to gather shell-fish, of which it affords incredible plenty, for +wherever we went, whether upon the hills or in the vallies, the woods or +the plains, we saw vast heaps of shells, often many waggon loads +together, some appearing to be very old, and others recent. We saw no +cultivation in this place, which had a desolate and barren appearance: +The tops of the hills were green, but nothing grew there except a large +kind of fern, the roots of which the natives had got together in large +quantities, in order to carry away with them. In the evening Mr Banks +walked up the river, which at the mouth looked fine and broad, but at +the distance of about two miles was not deep enough to cover the foot; +and the country inland was still more barren than at the sea-side. The +seine and dredge were not more successful to-day than yesterday, but the +Indians in some measure compensated for the disappointment by bringing +us several baskets of fish, some dry, and some fresh dressed; it was not +indeed of the best, but I ordered it all to be bought for the +encouragement of trade. + +<p>On the 7th, the weather was so bad that none of us left the ship, nor +did any of the Indians come on board. + +<p>On the 8th, I sent a party of men on shore to wood and water; and in the +mean time many canoes came off, in one of which was our friend Toiava; +soon after he was alongside of the ship, he saw two canoes coming from +the opposite side of the bay, upon which he hasted back again to the +shore with all his canoes, telling us that he was afraid of the people +who were coming: This was a farther proof that the people of this +country were perpetually committing hostilities against each other. In a +short time, however, he returned, having discovered that the people who +had alarmed him were not the same that he had supposed. The natives that +came to the ship this morning sold us, for a few pieces of cloth, as +much fish of the mackrel kind as served the whole ship's company, and +they were as good as ever were eaten. At noon, this day, I observed the +sun's meridional zenith distance by an astronomical quadrant, which +gave the latitude 36° 47' 43" within the south entrance of the bay. + +<p>Mr Banks and Dr Solander went on shore and collected a great variety of +plants, altogether unknown, and not returning till the evening, had an +opportunity of observing in what manner the Indians disposed themselves +to pass the night. They had no shelter but a few shrubs: The women and +the children were ranged innermost, or farthest from the sea; the men +lay in a kind of half circle round them, and their arms were set up +against the trees close by them, in a manner which showed that they were +afraid of an attack by some enemy not far distant. It was also +discovered that they acknowledged neither Teratu, nor any other person, +as their king: As in this particular they differed from all the people +that we had seen upon other parts of the coast, we thought it possible +that they might be a set of outlaws, in a state of rebellion against +Teratu, and in that case they might have no settled habitations, or +cultivated land, in any part of the country. + +<p>On the 9th, at day-break, a great number of canoes came on board, loaded +with mackerel of two sorts, one exactly the same with those caught in +England, and the other somewhat different: We imagined the people had +taken a large shoal, and brought us an overplus which they could not +consume; for they sold them at a very low rate. They were, however, very +welcome to us; at eight o'clock the ship had more fish on board than all +her people could eat in three days; and before night, the quantity was +so much increased, that every man who could get salt, cured as many as +would last him a month. + +<p>After an early breakfast, I went ashore, with Mr Green and proper +instruments, to observe the transit of Mercury, Mr Banks and Dr Solander +being of the party; the weather had for some time been very thick, with +much rain, but this day was so favourable that not a cloud intervened +during the whole transit. The observation of the ingress was made by Mr +Green alone, while I was employed in taking the sun's altitude, to +ascertain the time. It came on at 7h 20' 58" apparent time: According to +Mr Green's observation, the internal contact was at 12h 8' 58", the +external at 12h 9' 55" p.m. And according to mine, the internal contact +was at 12h 8' 54", and the external 12h 9' 48"; the latitude of the +place of observation was 30° 48' 5-1/2". The latitude observed at noon +was 36° 48' 28". The mean of this and yesterday's observation gives 36° +48' 5-1/2" S. the latitude of the place of observation; the variation of +the compass was 11° 9' E. + +<p>About noon we were alarmed by the firing of a great gun from the ship; +Mr Gore, my second lieutenant, was at this time commanding officer on +board, and the account that he gave was this. While some small canoes +were trading with the people, two very large ones came up, full of men, +one of them having on board forty-seven, all armed with pikes, darts, +and stones, and apparently with a hostile intention: They appeared to be +strangers, and to be rather conscious of superiority over us by their +numbers, than afraid of any weapons which could give us superiority over +them: No attack was however made; probably because they learnt from the +people in the other canoes, with whom they immediately entered into +conference, what kind of an enemy they had to deal with: After a little +time, they began to trade, some of them offering their arms, and one of +them a square piece of cloth, which makes a part of their dress, called +a <i>haahow;</i> several of the weapons were purchased, and Mr Gore having +agreed for a haahow, sent down the price, which was a piece of British +cloth, and expected his purchase: But the Indian, as soon as he had got +Mr Gore's cloth in his possession, refused to part with his own, and put +off the canoe: Upon being threatened for this fraud, he and his +companions began to sing their war song in defiance, and shook their +paddles: Still, however, they began no attack, only defying Mr Gore to +take any remedy in his power, which so provoked him that he levelled a +musket loaded with ball at the offender, while he was holding the cloth +in his hand, and shot him dead. It would have been happy if the effect +of a few small shot had been tried upon this occasion, which upon some +others had been successful. + +<p>When the Indian dropped, all the canoes put off to some distance; but as +they did not go away, it was thought they might still meditate an +attack. To secure therefore a safe passage for the boat, which it was +necessary to send on shore, a round shot was fired over their heads, +which effectually answered the purpose, and put them all to flight. When +an account of what had happened was brought on shore, our Indians were +alarmed, and drawing all together, retreated in a body. After a short +time, however, they returned, having heard a more particular account of +the affair; and intimated that they thought the man who had been killed +deserved his fate.[62] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 62: Savages in general, and more especially when in +unfavourable circumstances as to the means of rendering life +comfortable, shew little sympathy for each other; and accordingly, the +principle of fortitude, which, as justly observed by Mr Millar, in one +of his chapters on the effects of commerce, &c. "is diminished by the +exquisite fellow-feeling of those who live with us," is their prevalent +virtue. Every man is too much occupied by his own wants and desires to +have any fine feeling to squander away on his neighbours; and thus every +man learns to bear his own burdens without any expectation of assistance +from others, who are of course equally loaded with himself. But these +New Zealanders, as we have seen, had so far advanced in the arts of +civilization, as to have exhibited considerable social qualities. The +present instance of concern for their citizen, and of consideration of +the justice of his fate, proves the truth of the remark.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>A little before sun-set the Indians retired to eat their supper, and we +went with them to be spectators of the repast; it consisted of fish of +different kinds, among which were lobsters, and some birds, of a species +unknown to us: These were either roasted or baked; to roast them, they +fastened them upon a small stick, which was stuck up in the ground, +inclining towards their fire; and to bake them, they put them into a +hole in the ground with hot stones, in the same manner as the people of +Otaheite. + +<p>Among the natives that were assembled upon this occasion, we saw a +woman, who, after their manner, was mourning for the death of her +relation: She sat upon the ground near the rest, who, one only excepted, +seemed not at all to regard her: The tears constantly trickled down her +cheeks, and she repeated in a low, but very mournful voice, words, which +even Tupia did not at all understand: At the end of every sentence she +cut her arms, her face, or her breast, with a shell that she held in her +hand, so that she was almost covered with blood, and was indeed one of +the most affecting spectacles that can be conceived. The cuts, however, +did not appear to be so deep as are sometimes made upon similar +occasions, if we may judge by the scars which we saw upon the arms, +thighs, breasts, and cheeks of many of them, which we were told were the +remains of wounds which they had inflicted upon themselves as +testimonies of their affection and sorrow. + +<p>The next day I went with two boats, accompanied by Mr Banks and the +other gentlemen, to examine a large river that empties itself into the +head of the bay. We rowed about four or five miles up, and could have +gone much farther if the weather had been favourable. It was here wider +than at the mouth, and divided into many streams by small flat islands, +which are covered with mangroves, and overflowed at high water. From +these trees exudes a viscous substance which very much resembles resin; +we found it first in small lumps upon the sea beach, and now saw it +sticking to the trees, by which we knew whence it came. We landed on the +east side of the river, where we saw a tree upon which several shags had +built their nests, and here therefore we determined to dine; twenty of +the shags were soon killed, and being broiled upon the spot, afforded us +an excellent meal. We then went upon the hills, from whence I thought I +saw the head of the river. The shore on each side, as well as the +islands in the middle, were covered with mangroves; and the sandbanks +abounded in cockles and clams: In many places there were rock oysters, +and everywhere plenty of wild fowl, principally shags, ducks, curlieus, +and the sea-pie, that, has been described before. We also saw fish in +the river, but of what kind we could not discover: The country on the +east side of this river is for the most part barren and destitute of +wood; but on the west it has a better aspect, and in some places is +adorned with trees, but has in no part the appearance of cultivation. In +the entrance of the river, and for two or three miles up, there is good +anchoring in four and five fathom water, and places very convenient for +laying a vessel on shore, where the tide rises and falls seven feet at +the full and change of the moon. We could not determine whether any +considerable stream of fresh water came into this river out of the +country; but we saw a number of small rivulets issue from the adjacent +hills. Near the mouth of this river, on the east side, we found a little +Indian village, consisting of small temporary sheds, where we landed, +and were received by the people with the utmost kindness and +hospitality: They treated us with a flat shell-fish of a most delicious +taste, somewhat like a cockle, which we eat hot from the coals. Near +this place is a high point or peninsula, projecting into the river, and +upon it are the remains of a fort, which they call <i>eppah</i>, or <i>heppah</i>. +The best engineer in Europe could not have chosen a situation better +adapted to enable a small number to defend themselves against a greater. +The steepness of the cliffs renders it wholly inaccessible from the +water which incloses it on three sides; and, to the land, it is +fortified by a ditch, and a bank raised on the inside: From the top of +the bank to the bottom of the ditch, is two-and-twenty feet; the ditch +on the outside is fourteen feet deep, and its breadth is in proportion. +The whole seemed to have been executed with great judgment; and there +had been a row of pickets or pallisadoes, both on the top of the bank +and along the brink of the ditch on the outside; those on the outside +had been driven very deep into the ground, and were inclined towards the +ditch, so as to project over it; but of these the thickest posts only +were left, and upon them there were evident marks of fire, so that the +place had probably been taken and destroyed by an enemy. If any occasion +should make it necessary for a ship to winter here, or stay any time, +tents might be built in this place, which is sufficiently spacious, with +great convenience, and might easily be made impregnable to the whole +country. + +<p>On the 11th, there was so much wind and rain that no canoe came off; but +the long-boat was sent to fetch oysters from one of the beds which had +been discovered the day before: The boat soon returned, deeply laden, +and the oysters, which were as good as ever came from Colchester, and +about the same size, were laid down under the booms, and the ship's +company did nothing but eat them from the time they came on board till +night, when, as may reasonably be supposed, great part of them were +expended; this, however, gave us no concern, as we knew that not the +boat only, but the ship, might have been loaded, almost in one tide, as +the beds are dry at half-ebb. + +<p>In the morning of Sunday the 12th, two canoes came off full of people +whom we had never seen before, but who appeared to have heard of us, by +the caution which they used in approaching us. As we invited them to +come alongside with all the tokens of friendship that we could shew, +they ventured up, and two of them came on board; the rest traded very +fairly for what they had: A small canoe also came from the other side of +the bay, and sold us some very large fish, which they gave us to +understand they would have brought yesterday, having caught them the day +before, but that the wind was so high they could not venture to sea. + +<p>After breakfast I went with the pinnace and yawl, accompanied by Mr +Banks and Dr Solander, over to the north side of the bay, to take a view +of the country, and two fortified villages which we had discovered at a +distance. We landed near the smallest of them, the situation of which +was the most beautifully romantic that can be imagined; it was built +upon a small rock, detached from the main, and surrounded at high +water. The whole body of this rock was perforated by an hollow or arch, +which possessed much the largest part of it; the top of the arch was +above sixty feet perpendicular above the sea, which at high water flowed +through the bottom of it: The whole summit of the rock above the arch +was fenced round after their manner; but the area was not large enough +to contain more than five or six houses: It was accessible only by one +very narrow and steep path, by which the inhabitants, at our approach, +came down, and invited us into the place; but we refused, intending to +visit a much more considerable fort of the same kind at about a mile's +distance. We made some presents, however, to the women, and in the mean +time we saw the inhabitants of the town which we were going to, coming +towards us in a body, men, women, and children, to the number of about +one hundred: When they came near enough to be heard, they waved their +hands and called out <i>Horomai</i>; after which they sat down among the +bushes near the beach; these ceremonies we were told were certain signs +of their friendly disposition. We advanced to the place where they were +sitting, and when we came up, made them a few presents, and asked leave +to visit their Heppah; they consented with joy in their countenances, +and immediately led the way. It is called Wharretouwa, and is situated +upon a high promontory or point, which projects into the sea, on the +north side, and near the head of the bay: Two sides of it are washed by +the sea, and these are altogether inaccessible; two other sides are to +the land: Up one of them, which is very steep, lies the avenue from the +beach; the other is flat and open to the country upon the hill, which is +a narrow ridge: The whole is enclosed by a pallisade about ten feet +high, consisting of strong pales bound together with withes. The weak +side next the land is also defended by a double ditch, the innermost of +which has a bank and an additional pallisade; the inner pallisades are +upon the bank next the town, but at such a distance from the top of the +bank as to leave room for men to walk and use their arms, between them +and the inner ditch: The outermost pallisades are between the two +ditches, and driven obliquely into the ground, so that their upper ends +incline over the inner ditch: The depth of this ditch, from the bottom +to the top or crown of the bank, is four-and-twenty feet. Close within +the innermost pallisade is a stage, twenty feet high, forty feet long, +and six broad; it is supported by strong posts, and is intended as a +station for those who defend the place, from which they may annoy the +assailants by darts and stones, heaps of which lay ready for use. +Another stage of the same kind commands the steep avenue from the beach, +and stands also within the pallisade; on this side of the hill there are +some little outworks and huts, not intended as advanced posts, but as +the habitations of people who for want of room could not be accommodated +within the works, but who were, notwithstanding, desirous of placing +themselves under their protection. The pallisades, as has been observed +already, ran round the whole brow of the hill, as well towards the sea +as towards the land; but the ground within having originally been a +mount, they have reduced it not to one level, but to several, rising in +stages one above the other, like an amphitheatre, each of which is +inclosed within its separate pallisade; they communicate with each other +by narrow lanes, which might easily be stopt up, so that if an enemy +should force the outward pallisade, he would have others to carry before +the place could be wholly reduced, supposing these places to be +obstinately defended one after the other. The only entrance is by a +narrow passage, about twelve feet long, communicating with the steep +ascent from the beach: It passes under one of the fighting stages, and +though we saw nothing like a door or gateway, it may be easily +barricaded in a manner that will make the forcing it a very dangerous +and difficult undertaking. Upon the whole, this must be considered as a +place of great strength, in which a small number of resolute men may +defend themselves against all the force which a people with no other +arms than those that are in use here could bring against it. It seemed +to be well furnished for a siege with every thing but water; we saw +great quantities of fern root, which they eat as bread, and dried fish +piled up in heaps; but we could not perceive that they had any fresh +water nearer than a brook, which runs close under the foot of the hill: +Whether they have any means of getting it from this place during a +siege, or whether they have any method of storing it within the works in +gourds or other vessels, we could not learn; some resource they +certainly have with respect to this article, an indispensable necessary +of life, for otherwise the laying up dry provisions could answer no +purpose. Upon our expressing a desire to see their method of attack and +defence, one of the young men mounted a fighting stage, which they call +<i>Porava</i>, and another went into the ditch: Both he that was to defend +the place, and he that was to assault it, sung the war-song, and danced +with the same frightful gesticulations that we had seen used in more +serious circumstances, to work themselves up into a degree of that +mechanical fury, which, among all uncivilized nations, is the necessary +prelude to a battle; for dispassionate courage, a strength of mind that +can surmount the sense of danger, without a flow of animal spirits by +which it is extinguished, seems to be the prerogative of those who have +projects of more lasting importance, and a keener sense of honour and +disgrace, than can be formed or felt by men who have few pains or +pleasures besides those of mere animal life, and scarcely any purpose +but to provide for the day that is passing over them, to obtain plunder, +or revenge an insult: They will march against each other indeed in cool +blood, though they find it necessary to work themselves into passion +before they engage; as among us there have been many instances of people +who have deliberately made themselves drunk, that they might execute a +project which they formed when they were sober, but which, while they +continued so, they did not dare to undertake.[63] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 63: Dr Hawkesworth, we see, is anxious to array the character +of a mercenary soldier, in the best garment his reason and conscience +could allow him to fabricate--But the deformities are scarcely +concealed. It had been more candid, and on the whole too more judicious, +to say, that he fights without having interest in the nature of the +contest, and butchers without feeling passion against his opponent, for +he can scarcely be called enemy. It follows then, that the efforts of +courage he makes are the product of some superinduced principles, the +result of a certain discipline, suited to his desire for distinction, +and the love of what he holds to be glory. These principles are more +uniformly steady of operation than the rage, whether real or affected, +of savages, and are more conducive to the accomplishment of the objects +in view, than even the desperate intrepidity which they so often +exhibit, or that amazing fortitude in which they excel. Among these, the +enthusiasm of every individual is efficient indeed to the infliction of +vengeance and suffering, but it wants the energy of combination and the +sagacity of practised theory, for the accomplishment of great and +important designs. An army of soldiers, on the contrary, is a machine +organized and adjusted for a particular purpose, and formidable, not in +the proportion merely of the numbers of which it is composed, but in a +much higher degree; it operates, in short, by the accumulation of the +respective agencies of which it is made up, and the skill of the +engineer who conducts its operations. The whirlwind of the former is +dreadful indeed, but it is soon hushed on the ruins it has occasioned, +and it blusters no more; but the gale of the latter is interminable in +desolation, and seems to increase in strength as the bulwarks which +opposed it disappear. The repose of Europe has been assailed by both, at +different periods of her history. It is our mercy to have outlived the +mighty storm, and we are now in a condition to look with gratitude, +though mixed with pain, on the general wreck around us. It is not one of +the least singularities in the astonishing events we are still so busy +in contemplating, that the union of the two kinds of force now +specified, was essential to the liberation of the world from that odious +but scientific oppression, by which it had been so long held in misery, +and which was repeatedly found, by very direful experience, to be too +strong for either of them separately. It was not till the enthusiastic +indignation of vulgar minds, and the cordial ferocity of some of the +rudest of the allied tribes, had been amalgamated with the disciplined +valour and the love of most enviable honour, conspicuous in veteran +warriors, that the blasting demon of destruction knew his policy to be +unravelled, or felt his power to do mischief controuled to his +infamy.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the side of the hill, near this inclosure, we saw about half an acre +planted with gourds and sweet potatoes, which was the only cultivation +in the bay: Under the foot of the point upon which this fortification +stands, are two rocks, one just broken off from the main, and the other +not perfectly detached from it: They are both small, and seem more +proper for the habitations of birds than men; yet there are houses and +places of defence upon each of them. And we saw many other works of the +same kind upon small islands, rocks, and ridges of hills, on different +parts of the coast, besides many fortified towns, which appeared to be +much superior to this. + +<p>The perpetual hostility in which these poor savages, who have made every +village a fort, must necessarily live, will account for there being so +little of their land in a state of cultivation; and, as mischiefs very +often reciprocally produce each other, it may perhaps appear, that there +being so little land in a state of cultivation, will account for their +living in perpetual hostility. But it is very strange, that the same +invention and diligence which have been used in the construction of +places so admirably adapted to defence, almost without tools, should +not, when urged by the same necessity, have furnished them with a single +missile weapon except the lance, which is thrown by hand: They have no +contrivance like a bow to discharge a dart, nor any thing like a sling +to assist them in throwing a stone; which is the more surprising, as the +invention of slings, and bows and arrows, is much more obvious than of +the works which these people construct, and both these weapons are found +among much ruder nations, and in almost every other part of the world. +Besides the long lance and Patoo-Patoo, which have been mentioned +already, they have a staff about five feet long, sometimes pointed, like +a serjeant's halberd, sometimes only tapering to a point at one end, and +having the other end broad, and shaped somewhat like the blade of an +oar. They have also another weapon, about a foot shorter than these, +pointed at one end, and at the other shaped like an axe. The points of +their long lances are barbed, and they handle them with such strength +and agility, that we can match them with no weapon but a loaded musquet. + +<p>After taking a slight view of the country, and loading both the boats +with celery, which we found in great plenty near the beach, we returned +from our excursion, and about five o'clock in the evening got on board +the ship. + +<p>On the 15th, I sailed out of the bay, and at the same time had several +canoes on board, in one of which was our friend Toiava, who said, that +as soon as we were gone he must repair to his Heppah or fort, because +the friends of the man who had been shot by Mr Gore on the 9th, had +threatened to revenge his death upon him, whom they had reproached as +being our friend. Off the north point of the bay I saw a great number of +islands, of various extent, which lay scattered to the north-west, in a +direction parallel with the main as far as I could see. I steered +northeast for the north eastermost of these islands; but the wind coming +to the north-west, I was obliged to stand out to sea. + +<p>To the bay which we now left I gave the name of <i>Mercury Bay</i>, on +account of the observation which we had made there of the transit of +that planet over the sun. It lies in latitude 30° 47 S.; and in the +longitude of 184° 4' W.: There are several islands lying both to the +southward and northward of it, and a small island or rock in the middle +of the entrance: Within this island the depth of water no where exceeds +nine fathom: The best anchoring is in a sandy bay, which lies just +within the south head, in five and four fathom, bringing a high tower or +rock, which lies without the head, in one with the head, or just shut in +behind it. This place is very convenient both for wooding and watering, +and in the river there is an immense quantity of oysters and other +shell-fish: I have for this reason given it the name of <i>Oyster River</i>. +But for a ship that wants to stay here any time, the best and safest +place is in the river at the head of the bay, which, from the number of +mangrove trees about it, I have called <i>Mangrove River</i>. To sail into +this river, the south shore must be kept all the way on board. The +country on the east side of the river and bay is very barren, its only +produce being fern, and a few other plants that will grow in a poor +soil. The land on the north-west side is covered with wood, and the soil +being much more fertile, would doubtless produce all the necessaries of +life with proper cultivation: It is not however so fertile as the lands +that we have seen to the southward, nor do the inhabitants, though +numerous, make so good an appearance: They have no plantations; their +canoes are mean, and without ornament; they sleep in the open air; and +say, that Teratu, whose sovereignty they do not acknowledge, if he was +to come among them, would kill them. This favoured our opinion of their +being outlaws; yet they told us, that they had Heppahs or strongholds, +to which they retired in time of imminent danger. + +<p>We found, thrown upon the shore, in several parts of this bay, great +quantities of iron-sand, which is brought down by every little rivulet +of fresh water that finds its way from the country; which is a +demonstration that there is ore of that metal not far inland: Yet +neither the inhabitants of this place, or any other part of the coast +that we have seen, know the use of iron, or set the least value upon it; +all of them preferring the most worthless and useless trifle, not only +to a nail, but to any tool of that metal. + +<p>Before we left the bay, we cut upon one of the trees near the +watering-place the ship's name, and that of the commander, with the date +of the year and month when we were there; and after displaying the +English colours, I took a formal possession of it in the name of his +Britannic majesty King George the Third. + +<p>SECTION XXIV. + +<p><i>The Range from Mercury Bay to the Bay of Islands: An Expedition up the +River Thames: Some Account of the Indians who inhabit its Banks, and +the fine Timber that grows there: Several Interviews with the Natives on +different Parts of the Coast, and a Skirmish with them upon an Island</i>. + +<p>I continued plying to windward two days to get under the land, and on +the 18th, about seven in the morning, we were abreast of a very +conspicuous promontory, being then in latitude 36°26', and in the +direction of N. 48 W. from the north head of Mercury Bay, or Point +Mercury, which was distant nine leagues: Upon this point stood many +people, who seemed to take little notice of us, but talked together with +great earnestness. In about half an hour, several canoes put off from +different places, and came towards the ship; upon which the people on +the point also launched a canoe, and about twenty of them came in her up +with the others. When two of these canoes, in which there might be about +sixty men, came near enough to make themselves heard, they sung their +war-song; but seeing that we took little notice of it, they threw a few +stones at us, and then rowed off towards the shore. We hoped that we had +now done with them, but in a short time they returned, as if with a +fixed resolution to provoke us into a battle, animating themselves by +their song as they had done before. Tupia, without any directions from +us, went to the poop, and began to expostulate: He told them, that we +had weapons which would destroy them in a moment; and that, if they +ventured to attack us, we should be obliged, to use them. Upon this, +they flourished their weapons, and cried out, in their language, "Come +on shore, and we will kill you all:" Well, said Tupia, but why should +you molest us while we are at sea? As we do not wish to fight, we shall +not accept your challenge to come on shore; and here there is no +pretence for quarrel, the sea being no more your property than the ship. +This eloquence of Tupia, though it greatly surprised us, having given +him no hints for the arguments he used, had no effect upon our enemies, +who very soon renewed their battery: A musquet was then fired through +one of their boats and this was an argument of sufficient weight, for +they immediately fell astern and left us. + +<p>From the point, of which we were now abreast, the land trends W. 1/2 S. +near a league, and then S.S.E. as far as we could see; and, besides the +islands that lay without us, we could see land round by the S.W. as far +as the N.W.; but whether this was the main or islands, we could not then +determine: The fear of losing the main, however, made me resolve to +follow its direction. With this view, I hauled round the point and +steered to the southward, but there being light airs all round the +compass, we made but little progress. + +<p>About one o'clock, a breeze sprung up at east, which afterwards came to +N.E. and we steered along the shore S. by E. and S.S.E. having from +twenty-five to eighteen fathom. + +<p>At about half an hour after seven in the evening, having run seven or +eight leagues since noon, I anchored in twenty-three fathom, not causing +to run any farther in the dark, as I had now land on both sides, forming +the entrance of a strait, bay, or river, lying S. by E. for on that +point we could see no land. + +<p>At day-break, on the 19th, the wind being still favourable, we weighed +and stood with an easy sail up the inlet, keeping nearest to the east +side. In a short time, two large canoes came off to us from the shore; +the people on board said, that they knew Toiava very well, and called +Tupia by his name. I invited some of them on board; and as they knew +they had nothing to fear from us, while they behaved honestly and +peaceably, they immediately complied: I made each of them some presents, +and dismissed them much gratified. Other canoes afterwards came up to us +from a different side of the bay; and the people on board of these also +mentioned the name of Toiava, and sent a young man into the ship, who +told us he was his grandson, and he also was dismissed with a present. + +<p>After having run about five leagues from the place where we had anchored +the night before, our depth of water gradually decreased to six fathom; +and not chusing to go into less, as it was tide of flood, and the wind +blew right up the inlet, I came to an anchor about the middle of the +channel, which is near eleven miles over; after which I sent two boats +out to sound, one on one side, and the other on the other. + +<p>The boats not having found above three feet more water than we were now +in, I determined to go no farther with the ship, but to examine the +head of the bay in the boats; for, as it appeared to run a good way +inland, I thought this a favourable opportunity to examine the interior +part of the country, and its produce. + +<p>At day-break, therefore, I set out in the pinnace and long-boat, +accompanied by Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and Tupia; and we found the inlet +end in a river, about nine miles above the ship: Into this river we +entered with the first of the flood, and within three miles found the +water perfectly fresh. Before we had proceeded more than one third of +that distance, we found an Indian town, which was built upon a small +bank of dry sand, but entirely surrounded by a deep mud, which possibly +the inhabitants might consider as a defence. These people, as soon as +they saw us, thronged to the banks, and invited us on shore. We accepted +the invitation; and made them a visit notwithstanding the mud. They +received us with open arms, having heard of us from our good old friend +Toiava; but our stay could not be long, as we had other objects of +curiosity in view. We proceeded up the river till near noon, when we +were fourteen miles within its entrance; and then, finding the face of +the country to continue nearly the same, without any alteration in the +course of the stream, which we had no hope of tracing to its source, we +landed on the west side, to take a view of the lofty trees which every +where adorned its banks. They were of a kind that we had seen before, +though only at a distance, both in Poverty Bay and Hawke's Bay. Before +we had walked an hundred yards into the wood, we met with one of them +which was nineteen feet eight inches in the girt, at the height of six +feet above the ground: Having a quadrant with me, I measured its height +from the root to the first branch, and found it to be eighty-nine feet: +It was as straight as an arrow, and tapered but very little in +proportion to its height; so that I judged there were three hundred and +fifty-six feet of solid timber in it, exclusive of the branches. As we +advanced, we saw many others that were still larger; we cut down a young +one, and the wood proved heavy and solid, not fit for masts, but such as +would make the finest plank in the world. Our carpenter, who was with +us, said that the timber resembled that of the pitch-pine, which is +lightened by tapping; and possibly some such method might be found to +lighten these, and they would then be such masts as no country in Europe +can produce. As the wood was swampy, we could not range far; but we +found many stout trees of other kinds, all of them utterly unknown to +us, specimens of which we brought away. + +<p>The river at this height is as broad as the Thames at Greenwich, and +the tide of flood as strong; it is not indeed quite so deep, but has +water enough for vessels of more than a middle size, and a bottom of +mud, so soft that nothing could take damage by running ashore. + +<p>About three o'clock, we reimbarked, in order to return with the first of +the ebb, and named the river the <i>Thames</i>, it having some resemblance to +our own river of that name. In our return, the inhabitants of the +village where we had been ashore, seeing us take another channel, came +off to us in their canoes, and trafficked with us in the most friendly +manner, till they had disposed of the few trifles they had. The tide of +ebb just carried us out of the narrow part of the river, into the +channel that run up from the sea, before it was dark; and we pulled hard +to reach the ship, but meeting the flood, and a strong breeze at N.N.W. +with showers of rain, we were obliged to desist; and about midnight, we +run under the land, and came to a grappling, where we took such rest as +our situation would admit. At break of day, we set forward again, and it +was past seven o'clock before we reached the ship. We were all extremely +tired, but thought ourselves happy to be on board; for before nine it +blew so hard that the boat could not have rowed ahead, and must +therefore either have gone ashore, or taken shelter under it. + +<p>About three o'clock, having the tide of ebb, we took up our anchor, made +sail, and plied down the river till eight in the evening, when we came +to an anchor again: Early in the morning we made sail with the first +ebb, and kept plying till the flood of tide obliged us once more to come +to an anchor. As we had now only a light breeze, I went in the pinnace, +accompanied by Dr Solander, to the western shore, but I saw nothing +worthy of notice. + +<p>When I left the ship, many canoes were about it; Mr Banks therefore +chose to stay on board, and traffic with the natives: They bartered +their clothes and arms, chiefly for paper, and behaved with great +friendship and honesty. But while some of them were below with Mr Banks, +a young man who was upon the deck stole a half minute glass which was in +the binnacle, and was detected just as he was carrying it off. Mr Hicks, +who was commanding officer on board, took it into his head to punish +him, by giving him twelve lashes with a cat-o'-nine-tails; and +accordingly ordered him to be taken to the gang-way, and tied up to the +shrouds. When the other Indians who were on board saw him seized, they +attempted to rescue him; and being resisted, called for their arms, +which were handed up from the canoes, and the people of one of them +attempted to come up the ship's side. The tumult was heard by Mr Banks, +who, with Tupia, came hastily upon the deck to see what had happened. +The Indians immediately ran to Tupia, who, finding Mr Hicks inexorable, +could only assure them, that nothing was intended against the life of +their companion; but that it was necessary he should suffer some +punishment for his offence, which being explained to them, they seemed +to be satisfied. The punishment was then inflicted, and as soon as the +criminal was unbound, an old man among the spectators, who was supposed +to be his father, gave him a hearty beating, and sent him down into his +canoe. All the canoes then dropped astern, and the people said that they +were afraid to come any more near the ship: After much persuasion, +however, they ventured back again, but their cheerful confidence was at +an end, and their stay was short; they promised indeed, at their +departure, to return with some fish, but we saw no more of them. + +<p>On the 23d, the wind being contrary, we kept plying down the river, and +at seven in the evening, got without the N.W. point of the islands lying +on the west side of it. The weather being bad, night coming on, and +having land on every side of us, I thought it most advisable to tack, +and stretch in under the point, where we anchored in nineteen fathom. At +five in the morning of the 24th, we weighed, and made sail to the N.W. +under our courses and double-reefed top-sails, the wind being at S.W. by +W. and W.S.W. a strong gale and squally. As the gale would not permit us +to come near the land, we had but a slight and distant view of it from +the time when we got under sail till noon, daring a run of twelve +leagues, but we never once lost sight of it. At this time, our latitude, +by observation, was 36° 15' 20", we were not above two miles from a +point of land on the main, and three leagues and a half from a very high +island, which bore N.E. by E.: In this situation we had twenty-six +fathom water: The farthest point on the main that we could see bore N.W. +but we could perceive several small islands lying to the north of that +direction. The point of land of which we were now a-breast, and which I +called <i>Point Rodney</i>, is the N.W. extremity of the river Thames; for +under that name I comprehend the deep bay, which terminates in the fresh +water stream, and the N E. extremity is the promontory which we passed +when we entered it, and which I called <i>Cape Colville</i>, in honour of the +Right Honourable Lord Colville. + +<p>Cape Colville lies in latitude 36° 26', longitude 184° 27'; it rises +directly from the sea, to a considerable height, and is remarkable for a +lofty rock, which stands to the pitch of the point, and may be +distinguished at a very great distance. From the south point of this +Cape the river runs in a direct line S. by E., and is no where less than +three leagues broad for the distance of fourteen leagues above the Cape, +and there it is contracted to a narrow stream, but continues the same +course through a low flat country, or broad valley, which lies parallel +with the sea coast, and the end of which we could not see. On the east +side of the broad part of this river the land is tolerably high and +hilly; on the west side it is rather low, but the whole is covered with +verdure and wood, and has the appearance of great fertility, though +there were but a few small spots which had been cultivated. At the +entrance of the narrow part of the river the land is covered with +mangroves and other shrubs; but farther, there are immense woods of +perhaps the finest timber in the world, of which some account has +already been given: In several places the wood extends to the very edge +of the water, and where it is at a little distance, the intermediate +space is marshy, like some parts of the banks of the Thames in England: +It is probable that the river contains plenty of fish, for we saw poles +stuck up in many places to set nets for catching them, but of what kinds +I do not know. The greatest depth of water that we found in this river +was six-and-twenty fathom, which gradually decreased to one fathom and a +half: In the mouth of the fresh-water stream it is from four to three +fathom, but there are large flats and sand-banks lying before it. A ship +of moderate draught may, notwithstanding, go a long way up this river +with a flowing tide, for it rises perpendicularly, near ten feet, and at +the full and change of the moon, it is high water about nine o'clock. + +<p>Six leagues within Cape Colville, under the eastern shore, are several +small islands, which, together with the main, seem to form good +harbours; and opposite to these islands, under the western shore, lie +other islands, by which it is also probable that good harbours may be +formed: But if there are no harbours about this river, there is good +anchoring in every part of it where the depth of water is sufficient, +for it is defended from the sea by a chain of islands of different +extent, which lie cross the mouth of it, and which I have, for that +reason, called <i>Barrier Islands</i>: They stretch N.W. and S.E. ten +leagues. The south end of the chain lies N.E. between two and three +leagues from Cape Colville; and the north end lies N.E. four leagues and +a half from Point Rodney. Point Rodney lies W.N.W. nine leagues from +Cape Colville, in latitude 36°15' S. longitude 184° 53' W. + +<p>The natives residing about this river do not appear to be numerous, +considering the great extent of the country. But they are a strong, +well-made, and active people, and all of them paint their bodies with +red ochre and oil from head to foot, which we had not seen before. Their +canoes were large and well-built, and adorned with carving, in as good a +taste as any we had seen upon the coast. + +<p>We continued to stand along the shore till night, with the main land on +one side, and islands on the other, and then anchored in a bay, with +fourteen fathom, and a sandy bottom. We had no sooner come to an anchor, +than we tried our lines, and in a short time caught near one hundred +fish, which the people called sea-bream; they weighed from six to eight +pounds a piece, and consequently would supply the whole ship's company +with food for two days. From the success of our lines here, we called +the place <i>Bream Bay</i>: The two points that form it lie north and south, +five leagues from each other; it is every where of a good breadth, and +between three and four leagues deep: At the bottom of it there appears +to be a river of fresh water. The north head of the bay, called <i>Bream +Head</i>, is high land, and remarkable for several pointed rocks, which +stand in a range upon the top of it: It may also be known by some small +islands which lie before it, called the <i>Hen and Chickens</i>, one of which +is high, and terminates in two peaks. It lies in latitude 35°46' S., and +at the distance of seventeen leagues and a half from Cape Colville, in +the direction of N. 41 W. + +<p>The land between Point Rodney and Bream Head, an extent of ten leagues, +is low, and wooded in tufts, with white sand-banks between the sea and +the firm lands. We saw no inhabitants, but many fires in the night; and +where there are fires there are always people. + +<p>At day break, on the 25th, we left the bay, and steered along the shore +to the northward: We found the variation of the compass to be 12° 49' E. +At noon, our latitude was 35° 36' S., Bream Head bore south, distant ten +miles; and we saw some small islands, to which I gave the name of the +<i>Poor Knights</i>, at N.E. by N. distant three leagues; the northernmost +land in sight bore N.N.W.: We were in this place at the distance of two +miles from the shore, and had twenty-six fathom water. + +<p>The country appeared low; but well covered with wood: We saw some +straggling houses, three or four fortified towns, and near them a large +quantity of cultivated land. + +<p>In the evening, seven large canoes came off to us, with about two +hundred men: Some of them came on board, and said that they had heard of +us. To two of them, who appeared to be chiefs, I gave presents; but when +these were gone out of the ship, the others became exceedingly +troublesome. Some of those in the canoes began to trade, and, according +to their custom, to cheat, by refusing to deliver what had been bought, +after they had received the price: Among these was one who had received +an old pair of black breeches, which, upon a few small shot being fired +at him, he threw into the sea. All the boats soon after paddled off to +some distance, and when they thought they were out of reach, they began +to defy us, by singing their song and brandishing their weapons. We +thought it advisable to intimidate them, as well for their sakes as our +own, and therefore fired first some small arms, and then round shot over +their heads; the last put them in a terrible fright, though they +received no damage, except by overheating themselves in paddling away, +which they did with astonishing expedition. + +<p>In the night we had variable light airs; but towards the morning a +breeze sprung up at S. and afterwards at S.E. with which we proceeded +slowly to the northward, along the shore. + +<p>Between six and seven o'clock two canoes came off, and told us that they +had heard of yesterday's adventure, notwithstanding which the people +came on board, and traded very quietly and honestly for whatever they +had: Soon after two canoes came off from a more distant part of the +shore; these were of a much larger size, and full of people: When they +came near, they called off the other canoes which were along side of the +ship, and after a short conference they all came up together. The +strangers appeared to be persons of a superior rank; their canoes were +well carved with many ornaments, and they had with them a great variety +of weapons: They had patoo-patoos both of stone and whalebone, upon +which they appeared to set a great value; they had also ribs of whale, +of which we had before seen imitations in wood, carved and adorned with +tufts of dog's hair. Their complexions were browner than those of the +people we had seen to the southward, and their bodies and faces were +more marked with the black stains which they call amoco: They had a +broad spiral on each buttock; and the thighs of many of them were almost +entirely black, some narrow lines only being left untouched, so that at +first sight they appeared to wear striped breeches. With respect to the +amoco, every different tribe seemed to have a different custom, for all +the men in some canoes seemed to be almost covered with it, and those in +others had scarcely a stain, except on the lips, which were black in all +of them without a single exception. These gentlemen, for a long time, +refused to part with any of their weapons, whatever was offered for +them; at last, however, one of them produced a piece of talc, wrought +into the shape of an axe, and agreed to sell it for a piece of cloth: +The cloth was handed over the ship's side, but his honour immediately +put off his canoe with the axe. We had recourse to our usual expedient, +and fired a musket-ball over the canoe, upon which it put back to the +ship, and the piece of cloth was returned; all the boats then went +ashore, without offering any further intercourse. + +<p>At noon, the main land extended from S. by E. to N.W. by W. a remarkable +point of land bearing W. distant four or five miles; at three we passed +it, and I gave it the name of Cape Bret, in honour of Sir Piercy. The +land of this Cape is considerably higher than any part of the adjacent +coast: At the point of it is a high round hillock, and N.E. by N. at the +distance of about a mile, is a small high island or rock, which, like +several that have already been described, was perforated quite through, +so as to appear like the arch of a bridge. This Cape, or at least some +part of it, is by the natives called Motugogogo, and it lies in +latitude 35° 10' 30" S. longitude 185° 25' W. On the west side of it is +a large and pretty deep bay, lying in S.W. by W. in which there appeared +to be several small islands: The point that forms the N.W. entrance lies +W. 1/4 N. at the distance of three or four leagues from Cape Bret, and I +distinguished it by the name of Point Pococke. On the west side of the +bay we saw several villages, both upon islands and the main, and several +very large canoes came off to us, full of people, who made a better +appearance than any we had seen yet: They were all stout and well-made; +their hair, which was black, was tied up in a bunch on the crown of +their heads, and stuck with white feathers. In each of the canoes were +two or three chiefs, whose habits were of the best sort of cloth, and +covered with dog's skin, so as to make an agreeable appearance: Most of +these people were marked with the amoco, like those who had been +alongside of us before: Their manner of trading was also equally +fraudulent; and the officers neglecting either to punish or fright them, +one of the midshipmen, who had been defrauded in his bargain, had +recourse for revenge to an expedient which was equally ludicrous and +severe: He got a fishing line, and when the man who had cheated him was +close under the ship's side in his canoe, he heaved the lead with so +good an aim that the hook caught him by the backside; he then pulled the +line, and the man holding back, the hook broke in the shank, and the +beard was left sticking in the flesh. + +<p>During the course of this day, though we did not range more than six or +eight leagues of the coast, we had alongside and on board the ship +between four and five hundred of the natives, which is a proof that this +part of the country is well inhabited. + +<p>At eight o'clock the next morning we were within a mile of a group of +islands which lie close under the main, at the distance of +two-and-twenty miles from Cape Bret, in the direction of N.W. by W. 1/2 +W. At this place, having but little wind, we lay about two hours, during +which time several canoes came off, and sold us some fish, which we +called cavalles, and for that reason I gave the same name to the +islands. These people were very insolent, frequently threatening us, +even while they were selling their fish; and when some more canoes came +up, they began to pelt us with stones. Some small shot were then fired, +and hit one of them while he had a stone in his hand, in the very +action of throwing it into the ship: They did not, however, desist, till +some others had been wounded, and then they went away, and we stood off +to sea. + +<p>The wind being directly against us, we kept plying to windward till the +29th, when we had rather lost than gained ground; I therefore bore up +for a bay which lies to the westward of Cape Bret; at this time it was +about two leagues to leeward of us; and at about eleven o'clock we +anchored under the south-west side of one of the many islands which line +it on the south-east, in four fathom and a half water; we shoaled our +water to this depth all at once, and if this had not happened I should +not have come to an anchor so soon. The master was immediately sent out +with two boats to sound, and he soon discovered that we had got upon a +bank, which runs out from the northwest end of the island, and that on +the outside of it there was from eight to ten fathom. + +<p>In the mean time the natives, to the number of near four hundred, +crowded upon us in their canoes, and some of them were admitted on +board: To one, who seemed to be a chief, I gave a piece of broad cloth, +and distributed some trifling presents among the rest. I perceived that +some of these people had been about the ship when she was off at sea, +and that they knew the power of our fire-arms, for the very sight of a +gun threw them into manifest confusion: Under this impression they +traded very fairly; but the people in one of the canoes took the +opportunity of our being at dinner to tow away our buoy: A musket was +fired over them, but without effect, we then endeavoured to reach them +with small shot; but they were too far off: By this time they had got +the buoy into their canoe, and we were obliged to fire a musket at them +with ball: This hit one of them, and they immediately threw the buoy +overboard: A round shot was then fired over them, which struck the water +and went ashore. Two or three of the canoes immediately landed their +people, who ran about the beach, as we imagined, in search of the ball. +Tupia called to them, and assured them that while they were honest they +should be safe, and with a little persuasion many of them returned to +the ship, and their behaviour was such as left us no reason to suspect +that they intended to give us any farther trouble. + +<p>After the ship was removed into deeper water, and properly secured, I +went with the pinnace and yawl, manned and armed, accompanied by Mr +Banks and Dr Solander, and landed upon the island, which was about three +quarters of a mile distant: We observed that the canoes which were about +the ship, did not follow us upon our leaving her, which we thought a +good sign; but we had no sooner landed than they crowded to different +parts of the island and came on shore. We were in a little cove, and in +a few minutes were surrounded by two or three hundred people, some +rushing from behind the heads of the cove, and others appearing on the +tops of the hills: They were all armed, but they came on in so confused +and straggling a manner that we scarcely suspected they meant us any +harm, and we were determined that hostilities should not begin on our +part. We marched towards them, and then drew a line upon the sand +between them and us, which we gave them to understand they were not to +pass: At first they continued quiet, but their weapons were held ready +to strike, and they seemed to be rather irresolute than peaceable. While +we remained in this state of suspence, another party of Indians came up, +and now growing more bold as their number increased, they began the +dance and song which are their preludes to a battle: Still, however, +they delayed the attack, but a party ran to each of our boats, and +attempted to draw them on shore; this seemed to be the signal, for the +people about us at the same time began to press in upon our line: Our +situation was now become too critical for us to remain longer inactive, +I therefore discharged my musket, which was loaded with small shot, at +one of the forwardest, and Mr Banks and two of the men fired immediately +afterwards: This made them fall back in some confusion, but one of the +chiefs, who was at the distance of about twenty yards, rallied them, and +running forward waving his patoo-patoo, and calling loudly to his +companions, led them to the charge. Dr Solander, whose piece was not yet +discharged, fired at this champion, who stopped short upon feeling the +shot, and then ran away with the rest: They did not, however, disperse, +but got together upon a rising ground, and seemed only to want some +leader of resolution to renew their attack. As they were now beyond the +reach of small shot, we fired with ball, but as none of them took place +they still continued in a body, and in this situation we remained about +a quarter of an hour: In the mean time the ship, from whence a much +greater number of Indians were seen than could be discovered in our +situation, brought her broad-side to bear, and entirely dispersed them, +by firing a few shot over their heads. In this skirmish only two of the +Indians were hurt with the small-shot, and not a single life was lost, +which would not have been the case if I had not restrained the men, who, +either from fear or the love of mischief, shewed as much impatience to +destroy them as a sportsman to kill his game.[64] When we were in quiet +possession of our cove, we laid down our arms and began to gather +celery, which grew here in great plenty: After a little time we +recollected to have seen some of the people hide themselves in a cave of +one of the rocks, we therefore went towards the place, when an old +Indian, who proved to be the chief that I had presented with a piece of +broad-cloth in the morning, came out with his wife and his brother, and +in a supplicating posture, put themselves under our protection. We spoke +kindly to them, and the old man then told us that he had another +brother, who was one of those that had been wounded by the small shot, +and enquired with much solicitude and concern if he would die. We +assured him that he would not, and at the same time put into his hand +both a musket-ball and some small shot, telling him, that those only who +were wounded with the ball would die, and that the others would recover; +at the same time assuring him, that if we were attacked again, we should +certainly defend ourselves with the ball, which would wound them +mortally. Having now taken courage, they came and sat down by us, and, +as tokens of our perfect amity, we made them presents of such trifles as +we happened to have about us. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 64: This is a very candid admission, and quite characteristic +of the ordinary race of sailors. They who freely expose their own lives, +as a principle of professional expediency, are not by any means +solicitously sparing of the lives of others, who may happen to disagree +with them on questions of interest and advantage. Even the inferior +officers, and especially those who wish to attract notice in whatever is +reputable, as the means of obtaining promotion, do not in general differ +essentially from the common men. The ingenious midshipman who contrived +so very dexterously to hook the poor savage's backside, would have had +very little difficulty in bringing himself to act the sportsman as a +hunter or shooter as well as a fisher. Indeed there seems much stronger +evidence than mere imagination can supply, for the opinion of Hobbes, +that war is the state of nature to mankind. It is certain at least, that +the love of mischief is very congenial to that part of it, which, on the +whole, receives the least modification of what is natural, from the +restraints of education. The darling dreams of Rousseau, alas! have no +prototype in the history of our species.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Soon after we re-embarked in our boats, and having rowed to another cove +in the same island, climbed a neighbouring hill, which commanded the +country to a considerable distance. The prospect was very uncommon and +romantic, consisting of innumerable islands, which formed as many +harbours, where the water was as smooth as a mill-pool: We saw also many +towns, scattered houses, and plantations, the country being much more +populous than any we had seen. One of the towns was very near us, from +which many of the Indians advanced, taking great pains to shew us that +they were unarmed, and in their gestures and countenances, expressing +great meekness and humility. In the mean time, some of our people, who, +when the Indians were to be punished for a fraud, assumed the inexorable +justice of a Lycurgus, thought fit to break into one of their +plantations, and dig up some potatoes: For this offence I ordered each +of them to be punished with twelve lashes, after which two of them were +discharged; but the third, insisting that it was no crime in an +Englishman to plunder an Indian plantation, though it was a crime in an +Indian to defraud an Englishman of a nail, I ordered him back into his +confinement, from which I would not release him till he had received six +lashes more. + +<p>On the 30th, there being a dead calm, and no probability of our getting +to sea, I sent the master, with two boats; to sound the harbour; and all +the forenoon had several canoes about the ship, who traded in a very +fair and friendly manner. In the evening we went ashore upon the main, +where the people received us very cordially; but we found nothing worthy +of notice. + +<p>In this bay we were detained by contrary winds and calms several days, +during which time our intercourse with the natives was continued in the +most peaceable and friendly manner, they being frequently about the +ship; and we ashore, both upon the islands and the main. In one of our +visits to the continent, an old man shewed us the instrument they use in +staining their bodies, which exactly resembled those that were employed +for the same purpose at Otaheite. We saw also the man who was wounded in +attempting to steal our buoy: The ball had passed through the fleshy +part of his arm, and grazed his breast; but the wound, under the care of +nature, the best surgeon, and a simple diet, the best nurse, was in a +good state, and seemed to give the patient neither pain nor +apprehension.[65] We saw also the brother of our old chief, who had been +wounded with small shot in our skirmish: They had struck his thigh +obliquely, and though several of them were still in the flesh, the wound +seemed to be attended with neither danger nor pain. We found among their +plantations the <i>morus papyrifera</i>, of which these people, as well as +those of Otaheite, make cloth; but here the plant seems to be rare, and +we saw no pieces of the cloth large enough for any use but to wear by +way of ornament in their ears. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 65: Dr Hawkesworth is much given to this silly sort of cant, +more gratifying to vulgar prejudice, than becoming a scholar, or a man +of science. One knows not how to show its absurdity better than, by +merely directing the reader to consider for a moment, the things that +are put in contrast or compared together. If he cannot be at the trouble +of this, or, if attempting it, he finds his optics will not penetrate +the mist, let him ask himself whether dame Nature is a good setter of +bones, or is very expert in stopping dangerous bleedings from wounded +arteries;--or if a simple diet, say for example hasty-pudding and +water-gruel, personified by any fertility of poetic fancy, can smooth +one's pillow when his head aches, or bathe one's body when burning with +fever? No good surgeon <i>pretends</i> to heal wounded parts, but he <i>is</i> +positively useful nevertheless, by placing them so as to render the +efforts of nature efficient towards healing: And no nurse, however +conceited, ever had the least inclination to be stewed down into jelly, +or made a fricasee of, for the nourishment of her patient, though she +can <i>help</i> him to his candle and wine very delectably! But, to be sure, +where a wound gave neither pain nor apprehension, as is mentioned in the +text, it is very likely, that both nature and diet are quite different +beings from what are so called in our corner of the world. If so, Dr H. +ought to have given their history, as a <i>genus incognitum</i>. But this is +idle.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Having one day landed in a very distant part of the bay, the people +immediately fled, except one old man, who accompanied us wherever we +went, and seemed much pleased with the little presents we made him. We +came at last to a little fort, built upon a small rock, which at high +water was surrounded by the sea, and accessible only by a ladder: We +perceived that he eyed us with a kind of restless solicitude as we +approached it, and upon our expressing a desire to enter it, he told us +that his wife was there: He saw that our curiosity was not diminished by +this intelligence, and after some hesitation, he said, if we would +promise to offer no indecency he would accompany us: Our promise was +readily given, and he immediately led the way. The ladder consisted of +steps fastened to a pole, but we found the ascent both difficult and +dangerous. When we entered we found three women, who, the moment they +saw us, burst into tears of terror and surprise: Some kind words, and a +few presents, soon removed their apprehensions, and put them into good +humour. We examined the house of our old friend, and by his interest two +others, which were all that the fortification contained, and having +distributed a few more presents, we parted with mutual satisfaction. + +<p>At four o'clock in the morning of the 5th of December, we weighed, with +a light breeze, but it being variable, with frequent calms, we made +little way. We kept turning out of the bay till the afternoon, and about +ten o'clock we were suddenly becalmed, so that the ship would neither +wear nor stay, and the tide or current setting strong, she drove towards +land so fast, that before any measures could be taken for her security +she was within a cable's length of the breakers: We had thirteen fathom +water, but the ground was so foul that we did not dare to drop our +anchor; the pinnace therefore was immediately hoisted out to take the +ship in tow, and the men, sensible of their danger, exerting themselves +to the utmost, and a faint breeze springing up off the land, we +perceived with unspeakable joy that she made head-way, after having been +so near the shore that Tupia, who was not sensible of our hair's breadth +escape, was at this very time conversing with the people upon the beach, +whose voices were distinctly heard, notwithstanding the roar of the +breakers. We now thought all danger was over, but about an hour +afterwards, just as the man in the chains had cried "Seventeen fathom," +the ship struck. The shock threw us all into the utmost consternation; +Mr Banks, who had undressed himself, and was stepping into bed, ran +hastily up to the deck, and the man in the chains called out "Five +fathom;" by this time, the rock on which we had struck being to +windward, the ship went off without having received the least damage, +and the water very soon deepened to twenty fathom. + +<p>This rock lies half a mile W.N.W. of the northermost or outermost island +on the south-east side of the bay. We had light airs from the land, +with calms, till nine o'clock the next morning, when we got out of the +bay, and a breeze springing up at N.N.W. we stood out to sea. + +<p>This bay, as I have before observed, lies on the west side of Cape Bret, +and I named it the <i>Bay of Islands</i>, from the great number of islands +which line its shores, and from several harbours equally safe and +commodious, where there is room and depth for any number of shipping. +That in which we lay is on the south-west side of the south-westermost +island, called <i>Maturaro</i>, on the south-east side of the bay. I have +made no accurate survey of this bay, being discouraged by the time it +would cost me; I thought also that it was sufficient to be able to +affirm that it afforded us good anchorage, and refreshment of every +kind. It was not the season for roots, but we had plenty of fish, most +of which, however, we purchased of the natives, for we could catch very +little ourselves either with net or line. When we shewed the natives our +seine, which is such as the king's ships are generally furnished with, +they laughed at it, and in triumph produced their own, which was indeed +of an enormous size, and made of a kind of grass, which is very strong: +It was five fathom deep, and by the room it took up, it could not be +less than three or four hundred fathom long. Fishing seems indeed to be +the chief business of life in this part of the country; we saw about all +their towns a great number of nets, laid in heaps like hay-cocks, and +covered with a thatch to keep them from the weather, and we scarcely +entered a house where some of the people were not employed in making +them. The fish we procured here were sharks, stingrays, sea-bream, +mullet, mackrel, and some others. + +<p>The inhabitants in this bay are far more numerous than in any other part +of the country that we had before visited; it did not appear to us that +they were united under one head, and though their towns were fortified, +they seemed to live together in perfect amity. + +<p>It is high water in this bay at the full and change of the moon, about +eight o'clock, and the tide then rises from six to eight feet +perpendicularly. It appears from such observations as I was able to make +of the tides upon the sea-coast, that the flood comes from the +southward; and I have reason to think that there is a current which +comes from the westward, and sets along the shore to the S.E. or S.S.E. +as the land happens to lie. [66] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 66: Some sketches of the Bay of Islands, and a good deal of +valuable information about it, are given by Mr Savage in his Account of +New Zealand, to which we shall be indebted hereafter.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION XXV. + +<p><i>Range from the Bay of Islands round North Cape to Queen Charlotte's +Sound; and a Description of that Part of the Coast</i>. + +<p>On Thursday the 7th of December, at noon, Cape Bret bore S.S.E. 1/2 E. +distant ten miles, and our latitude, by observation, was 34° 59' S.; +soon after we made several observations of the sun and moon, the result +of which made our longitude 185° 36' W. The wind being against us, we +had made but little way. In the afternoon, we stood in shore, and +fetched close under the Cavalles, from which islands the main trends W. +by N.: Several canoes put off and followed us, but a light breeze +springing up, I did not chuse to wait for them. I kept standing to the +W.N.W. and N.W. till the next morning at ten o'clock, when I tacked and +stood in for the shore, from which we were about five leagues distant. +At noon, the westernmost land in sight bore W. by S. and was about four +leagues distant. In the afternoon, we had a gentle breeze to the west, +which in the evening came to the south, and continuing so all night, by +day-light brought us pretty well in with the land, seven leagues to the +westward of the Cavalles, where we found a deep bay running in S.W. by +W. and W.S.W. the bottom of which we could but just see, and there the +land appeared to be low and level. To this bay, which I called +<i>Doubtless Bay</i>, the entrance is formed by two points, which lie W.N.W. +and E.S.E. and are five miles distant from each other. The wind not +permitting us to look in here, we steered for the westermost land in +sight, which bore from us W.N.W. about three leagues, but before we got +the length of it it fell calm. + +<p>While we lay becalmed, several canoes came off to us, but the people +having heard of our guns, it was not without great difficulty that they +were persuaded to come under our stern: After having bought some of +their clothes, as well as their fish, we began to make enquiries +concerning their county, and learnt, by the help of Tupia, that, at the +distance of three days rowing in their canoes, at a place called +<i>Moore-wennua</i>, the land would take a short turn to the southward, and +from thence extend no more to the west. This place we concluded to be +the land discovered by Tasman, which he called <i>Cape Maria van Diemen</i>, +and finding these people so intelligent, we enquired farther, if they +knew of any country besides their own: They answered, that they never +had visited any other, but that their ancestors had told them, that to +the N.W. by N. or N.N.W. there was a country of great extent, called +<i>Ulimaroa</i>, to which some people had sailed in a very large canoe; that +only part of them returned, and reported, that after a passage of a +month they had seen a country where the people eat hogs. Tupia then +enquired whether these adventurers brought any hogs with them when they +returned? They said No: Then, replied Tupia, your story is certainly +false, for it cannot be believed that men who came back from an +expedition without hogs, had ever visited a country where hogs were to +be procured. It is however remarkable, notwithstanding the shrewdness of +Tupia's objection, that when they mentioned hogs it was not by +description but by name, calling them <i>Booah</i>, the name which is given +them in the South-sea islands; but if the animal had been wholly unknown +to them, and they had no communication with people to whom it was known, +they could not possibly have been acquainted with the name. + +<p>About ten o'clock at night, a breeze sprung up at W.N.W. with which we +stood off north; and at noon the next day, the Cavalles bore S.E. by E. +distant eight leagues; the entrance of Doubtless Bay S. by W. distant +three leagues; and the north-west extremity of the land in sight, which +we judged to be the main, bore N.W. by W.: Our latitude by observation +was 34° 44' S. In the evening, we found the variation to be 12°41' E. by +the azimuth, and 12° 40' by the amplitude. + +<p>Early in the morning, we stood in with the land, seven leagues to the +westward of Doubtless Bay, the bottom of which is not far distant from +the bottom of another large bay, which the shore forms at this place, +being separated only by a low neck of land, which juts out into a +peninsula that I have called <i>Knuckle Point</i>. About the middle of this +Bay, which we called <i>Sandy Bay</i>, is a high mountain, standing upon a +distant shore, to which I gave the name of <i>Mount Camel</i>. The latitude +here is 84° 51' S. and longitude 186° 50'. We had twenty-four and +twenty-five fathom water, with a good bottom; but there seems to be +nothing in this bay that can induce a ship to put into it; for the land +about it is utterly barren and desolate, and, except Mount Camel, the +situation is low: The soil appears to be nothing but white sand, thrown +up in low irregular hills and narrow ridges, lying parallel with the +shore. But barren and desolate as this place is, it is not without +inhabitants: We saw one village on the west side of Mount Camel, and +another on the east side: We saw also five canoes full of people, who +pulled after the ship, but could not come up with us. At nine o'clock, +we tacked and stood to the northward; and at noon, the Cavalles bore +S.E. by E. distant thirteen leagues; the north extremity of the land in +sight, making like an island, bore N.W. 1/4 N. distant nine leagues; and +Mount Camel bore S.W. by S. distance six leagues. + +<p>The wind being contrary, we kept plying northward till five o'clock in +the evening of the 12th, when, having made very little way, we tacked +and stood to the N.E. being two leagues to the northward of Mount Camel, +and about a mile and a half from the shore, in which situation we had +two-and-twenty fathom water. + +<p>At ten, it began to blow and rain, which brought us under double-reefed +topsails; at twelve we tacked and stood to the westward till seven the +next morning, when we tacked and stood again to the N.E. being about a +mile to windward of the place where we tacked last night. Soon after it +blew very hard at N.N.W. with heavy squalls and much rain, which brought +us under our courses, and split the maintop-sail; so that we were +obliged to unbend it and bend another: At ten it became more moderate, +and we set the top-sails, double-reefed. At noon, having strong gales +and heavy weather, we tacked and stood to the westward, and had no land +in sight for the first time since we had been upon this coast. + +<p>We had now strong gales at W. and W.S.W.; and at half an hour past three +we tacked and stood to the northward. Soon after, a small island lying +off Knuckle Point bore S. 1/2 W. distant half a league. In the evening, +having split the fore and mizen topsails, we brought the ship under her +courses; and at midnight we wore, and stood to the southward till five +in the morning; when we tacked and stood to the N.W. and saw land +bearing south, at the distance of eight or nine leagues; by this we +discovered that we had fallen much to the leeward since yesterday +morning. At noon, our latitude by observation was 34° 6' S.; and the +same land which we had seen before to the N.W. now bore S.W. and +appeared to be the northern extremity of the country. We had a large +swell rolling in from the westward, and therefore concluded that we were +not covered by any land in that quarter. At eight in the evening, we +tacked and stood to the westward, with as much sail as we could bear; +and at noon the next day, we were in latitude 34° 10', longitude 186° +45' W. and by estimation about seventeen leagues from the land, +notwithstanding our utmost endeavours to keep in with it. + +<p>On the 16th, at six in the morning, we saw land from the mast-head, +bearing S.S.W.; and at noon it bore S. by W. distant fourteen leagues: +While we were standing in for the shore we sounded several times, but +had no ground with ninety fathom. At eight, we tacked in a hundred and +eight fathom, at about three or four miles from the shore, which was the +same point of land that we had to the N.W. before we were blown off. At +noon it bore S.W. distant about three miles; Mount Camel bore S. by E. +distant about eleven leagues, and the westermost land in sight bore S. +75 W.; the latitude by observation was 34° 20' S. At four o'clock, we +tacked and stood in shore, in doing which, we met with a strong +rippling, and the ship fell fast to leeward, which we imputed to a +current setting east. At eight, we tacked and stood off till eight the +next morning; when we tacked and stood in, being about ten leagues from +the land: At noon, the point of land which we were near the day before, +bore S.S.W. distant five leagues. The wind still continued at west; and +at seven o'clock, we tacked in thirty-five fathom, when the point of +land which has been mentioned before, bore N.W. by N. distant four or +five miles; so that we had not gained one inch to windward the last +twenty-four hours, which confirmed our opinion that there was a current +to the eastward. The point of land I called <i>North Cape</i>, it being the +northern extremity of this country. It lies in latitude 34° 22' S. +longitude 186° 55' W. and thirty-one leagues distant from Cape Bret, in +the direction of N. 63 W. It forms the north point of Sandy Bay, and is +a peninsula jutting out N.E. about two miles, and terminating in a bluff +head that is flat at the top. The isthmus which joins this head to the +main land is very low, and for that reason the land of the Cape, from +several situations, has the appearance of an island. It is still more +remarkable when it is seen from the southward, by the appearance of a +high round island at the S.E. point of the Cape; but this also is a +deception; for what appears to be an island is a round hill, joined to +the Cape by a low narrow neck of land. Upon the Cape we saw a Hippah or +village, and a few inhabitants; and on the south-east side of it there +appears to be anchorage, and good shelter from the south-west and +north-west winds. + +<p>We continued to stand off and on, making N.W. till noon on the 21st, +when North Cape bore S. 39 E. distant thirty-eight leagues. Our +situation varied only a few leagues till the 23d, when, about seven +o'clock in the evening, we saw land from the mast-head, bearing S. 1/2 +E. At eleven the next morning, we saw it again, bearing S.S.E. at the +distance of eight leagues: We now stood to the S.W.; and at four +o'clock, the land bore S.E. by S. distant four leagues, and proved to be +a small island, with other islands or rocks, still smaller, lying off +the south-west end of it, and another lying off the north-east end, +which were discovered by Tasman, and called the Three Kings. The +principal island lies in latitude 34° 12' S. longitude 187° 48' W. and +distant fourteen or fifteen leagues from North Cape, in the direction of +W. 14 N. At midnight, we tacked and stood to the N.E. till six the next +morning, which was Christmas day, when we tacked and stood to the +southward. At noon, the Three Kings bore E. 8 N. distant five or six +leagues. The variation this morning by the azimuth was 11° 25' E. + +<p>On the 26th, we stood to the southward close upon a wind; and at noon, +were in latitude 35° 10' S longitude 188° 20' W. the Three Kings bearing +N. 26 W. distant twenty-two leagues. In this situation we had no land in +sight; and yet, by observation, we were in the latitude of the Bay of +Islands; and by my reckoning but twenty leagues to the westward of North +Cape: From whence it appears, that the northern part of this island is +very narrow; for otherwise we must have seen some part of the west side +of it. We stood to the southward till twelve at night, and then tacked +and stood to the northward. + +<p>At four o'clock in the morning, the wind freshened, and at nine blew a +storm; so that we were obliged to bring the ship to under her mainsail. +Our course made good between noon this day and yesterday was S.S.W. 1/2 +W. distance eleven miles. The Three Kings bore N. 27 E. distant +seventy-seven miles. The gale continued all this day, and till two the +next morning, when it fell, and began to veer to the southward and S.W. +where it fixed about four, when we made sail and steered east in for +the land, under the fore-sail and main-sail; but the wind then rising, +and by eight o'clock being increased to a hurricane, with a prodigious +sea, we were obliged to take in the main-sail; we then wore the ship, +and brought her to with her head to the north west. At noon the gale was +somewhat abated, but we had still heavy squalls. Our course made good +this day, was north, a little easterly, twenty-nine miles; latitude by +account 34° 50' S. longitude 188° 27' W.; the Three Kings bore N. 41 E. +distant fifty-two miles. At seven o'clock in the evening, the wind being +at S.W. and S.W. by W. with hard squalls, we wore and lay on the other +tack; and at six the next morning spread more sail. Our course and +distance since yesterday was E. by N. twenty-nine miles. In the +afternoon, we had hard squalls at S.W.; and at eight in the evening, +wore and stood to the N.W. till five the next morning; and then wore and +stood to the S.E. At six, we saw the land bearing N.E. distant about six +leagues, which we judged to be Cape <i>Maria Van Diemen</i>, and which +corresponded with the account that had been given of it by the Indians. +At midnight we wore and stood to the S.E. And on the next day at noon, +Cape Maria Van Diemen bore N.E. by N. distant about five leagues. At +seven in the evening, we tacked and stood to the westward, with a +moderate breeze at S.W. by S. and S.W. Mount Camel then bore N. 88 E. +and the northermost land, or Cape Maria Van Diemen, N. by W.; we were +now distant from the nearest land about three leagues, where we had +something more than forty fathom water; and it must be remarked, that +Mount Camel, which when seen on the other side did not seem to be more +than one mile from the sea, seemed to be but little more when seen from +this side; which is a demonstration that the land here cannot be more +than two or three miles broad, or from sea to sea. + +<p>At six o'clock in the morning of January the 1st, 1770, being New-year's +Day, we tacked and stood to the eastward, the Three Kings bearing N.W. +by N. At noon, we tacked again, and stood to the westward, being in +latitude 34° 37' S.; the Three Kings bearing N.W. by N. at the distance +of ten or eleven leagues; and Cape Maria Van Diemen N. 31 E. distant +about four leagues and a half: In this situation we had fifty-four +fathom water. + +<p>During this part of our navigation two particulars are very remarkable; +in latitude 35° S. and in the midst of summer, I met with a gale of +wind, which for its strength and continuance was such as I had scarcely +ever been in before, and we were three weeks in getting ten leagues to +the westward, and five weeks in getting fifty leagues, for at this time +it was so long since we passed Cape Bret. During the gale, we were +happily at a considerable distance from the land, otherwise it is highly +probable that we should never have returned to relate our adventures. + +<p>At five o'clock in the evening, having a fresh breeze to the westward, +we tacked and stood to the southward: At this time North Cape bore E. +1/4 N. and just open of a point that lies three leagues W. by N. from +it. + +<p>This Cape, as I have observed before, is the northermost extremity of +this country, and the eastermost point of a peninsula, which runs out +N.W. and N.W. by N. seventeen or eighteen leagues, and of which Cape +Maria Van Diemen is the westermost point. Cape Maria lies in latitude +34° 30' S. longitude 187° 18' W.; and from this point the land trends +away S.E. by S. and S.E. beyond Mount Camel, and is every where a barren +shore, consisting of banks of white sand. + +<p>On the 2d, at noon, we were in latitude 35° 17' S. and Cape Maria bore +north, distant about sixteen leagues, as near as we could guess; for we +had no land in sight, and did not dare to go nearer, as a fresh gale +blew right on shore, with a rolling sea. The wind continued at W.S.W and +S.W. with frequent squalls; in the evening we shortened sail, and at +midnight tacked, and made a trip to the N.W. till two in the morning, +when we wore and stood to the southward. At break of day, we made sail, +and edged away, in order to make land; and at ten o'clock, we saw it, +hearing N.W. It appeared to be high, and at noon extended from N. to +E.N.E. distant by estimation eight or ten leagues. Cape Maria then bore +N. 2° 30' W. distant thirty-three leagues; our latitude by observation +was 36° 2' S. About seven o'clock in the evening, we were within six +leagues of it; but having a fresh gale upon it, with a rolling sea, we +hauled our wind to the S.E.; and kept on that course close upon the wind +all night, sounding several times, but having no ground with one hundred +and one hundred and ten fathom. + +<p>At eight o'clock the next morning, we were about five leagues from the +land, and off a place which lies in latitude 86° 25', and had the +appearance of a bay or inlet. It bore east; and in order to see more of +it, we kept on our course till eleven o'clock, when we were not more +than three leagues from it, and then discovered that it was neither +inlet nor bay, but a tract of low land, bound by higher lands on each +side, which produced the deception. At this time, we tacked and stood to +the N.W.; and at noon, the land was not distant more than three or four +leagues. We were now in latitude 36° 31' S. longitude 185° 50' W. Cape +Maria bore N. 25 W. distant forty-four leagues, and a half; so that the +coast must be almost straight in the direction of S.S.E. 3/4 E. and +N.N.W. 3/4 W. nearly. In about latitude 35° 45' is some high land +adjoining to the sea; to the southward of which the shore is also high, +and has the most desolate and inhospitable appearance that can be +imagined. Nothing is to be seen but hills of sand, on which there is +scarcely a blade of verdure; and a vast sea, impelled by the westerly +winds, breaking upon it in a dreadful surf, renders it not only forlorn, +but frightful; complicating the idea of danger with desolation, and +impressing the mind at once with a sense of misery and death. From this +place I steered to the northward, resolving never more to come within +the same distance of the coast, except the wind should be very +favourable indeed. I stood under a fresh sail all the day, hoping to get +an offing by the next noon, and we made good a course of a hundred and +two miles N. 38 W. Our latitude by observation was 35° 10'S.; and Cape +Maria bore N. 10 E. distance forty-one miles. In the night, the wind +shifted from S.W. by S. to S. and blew fresh. Our course to the noon of +the 5th was N. 75 W. distance eight miles. + +<p>At day-break on the 6th, we saw the land which we took to be Cape Maria, +bearing N.N.E. distant eight or nine leagues: And on the 7th, in the +afternoon, the land bore east: And some time after we discovered a +turtle upon the water; but being awake, it dived instantly, so that we +could not take it. At noon, the high land, which has just been +mentioned, extended from N. to E. at the distance of five or six +leagues; and in two places, a flat gave it the appearance of a bay or +inlet. The course that we made good the last four-and-twenty hours was +S. 33 E. fifty-three miles; Cape Maria bearing N. 25 W. distant thirty +leagues. + +<p>We sailed within sight of land all this day, with gentle gales between +the N.E. and N.W.; and by next noon had sailed sixty-nine miles, in the +direction of S. 37 E.; our latitude, by observation was 36° 39' S. The +land which on the 4th we had taken for a bay, now bore N.E. by N. +distant five leagues and a half; and Cape Maria N. 29 W. forty-seven +leagues. + +<p>On the 9th, we continued a south-east course till eight o'clock in the +evening, having run seven leagues since noon, with the wind at N.N.E. +and N. and being within three or four leagues of the land, which +appeared to be low and sandy. I then steered S.E. by S. in a direction +parallel wills the coast, having from forty-eight to thirty-four fathom +water, with a black sandy bottom. At day-break the next morning, we +found ourselves between two and three leagues from the land, which began +to have a better appearance, rising in gentle slopes, and being covered +with trees and herbage. We saw a smoke and a few houses, but it appeared +to be but thinly inhabited. At seven o'clock we steered S. by E. and +afterwards S. by W., the land lying in that direction. At nine, we were +abreast of a point which rises with an easy ascent from the sea to a +considerable height: This point, which lies in latitude 37° 43', I named +Woody Head. About eleven miles from this Head, in the direction of S.W. +1/2 W. lies a very small island, upon which we saw a great number of +gannets, and which we therefore called Gannet Island. At noon, a high +craggy point bore E.N.E. distant about a league and a half, to which I +gave the name of Albetross Point: It lies in latitude 38° 4' S. +longitude 184° 42' W.; and is distant seven leagues, in the direction of +S. 17 W. from Woody Head. On the north side of this point the shore +forms a bay, in which there appears to be anchorage and shelter for +shipping. Our course and distance for the last twenty-four hours was S. +37 E. sixty-nine miles; and at noon this day Cape Maria bore N. 30 W. +distant eighty-two leagues. Between twelve and one, the wind shifted at +once from N.N.E. to S.S.W. with which we stood to the westward till four +o'clock in the afternoon, and then tacked, and stood again in shore till +seven; when we tacked again and stood to the westward, having but little +wind. At this time Albetross Point bore N.E. distant near two leagues, +and the southermost land insight bore S.S.W. 1/2 W. being a very high +mountain, and in appearance greatly resembling the peak of Teneriffe. In +this situation we had thirty fathom water, and having but little wind +all night, we tacked about four in the morning and stood in for the +shore. Soon after, it fell calm; and being in forty-two fathom water, +the people caught a few sea-bream. At eleven, a light breeze sprang up +from the west, and we made sail to the southward. We continued to steer +S. by W. and S.S.W. along the shore, at the distance of about four +leagues, with gentle breezes from between N.W. and N.N.E. At seven in +the evening, we saw the top of the peak to the southward, above the +clouds, which concealed it below. And at this time, the southermost land +in sight bore S. by W.; the variation, by several azimuths which were +taken both in the morning and the evening, appeared to be 14° 15' +easterly. + +<p>At noon on the 12th, we were distant about three leagues from the shore +which lies under the peak, but the peak itself was wholly concealed by +clouds: We judged it to bear about S.S.E.; and some very remarkable +peaked islands, which lay under the shore, bore E.S.E. distant three or +four leagues. At seven in the evening we sounded, and had forty-two +fathom, being distant from the shore between two and three leagues: We +judged the peak to bear east; and after it was dark, we saw fires upon +the shore. + +<p>At five o'clock in the morning we saw, for a few minutes, the summit of +the peak, towering above the clouds, and covered with snow. It now bore +N.E.; it lies in latitude 39° 16' S. longitude 185° 15' W.; and I named +it Mount Egmont, in honour of the Earl. It seems to have a large base, +and to rise with a gradual ascent. It lies near the sea, and is +surrounded by a flat country of a pleasant appearance, being clothed +with verdure and wood, which renders it the more conspicuous, and the +shore under it forms a large cape, which I have named Cape Egmont. It +lies S.S.W. 1/2 W. twenty-seven leagues distant from Albetross Point, +and on the north side of it are two small islands, which lie near a +remarkable point on the main, that rises to a considerable height in the +form of a sugar-loaf. To the southward of the Cape, the land trends away +S.E. by E. and S.S.E. and seems to be every where a bold shore. At noon, +Cape Egmont bore about N.E.; and in this direction, at about four +leagues from the shore, we had forty fathom of water. The wind, during +the rest of the day was from W. to N.W. by W. and we continued to steer +along the shore S.S.E. and S.E. by E. keeping at the distance of between +two and three leagues. At half an hour after seven, we had another +transient view of Mount Edgecombe, which bore N. 17 W. distant about ten +leagues. + +<p>At five the next morning, we steered S.E. by S. the coast inclining more +southerly; and in about half an hour, we saw land bearing S.W. by S. for +which we hauled up. At noon the north-west extremity of the land in +sight bore S. 63 W. and some high land, which had the appearance of an +island lying under the main, bore S.S.E. distant five leagues. We were +now in a bay, the bottom of which bearing south we could not see, though +it was clear in that quarter. Our latitude by observation was 40° 27' S. +longitude 184° 39' W. At eight in the evening, we were within two +leagues of the land which we had discovered in the morning, having run +ten leagues since noon: The land which then bore S. 63 W. now bore N. 49 +W. at the distance of seven or eight leagues, and had the appearance of +an island. Between this land and Cape Egmont lies the bay, the west side +of which was our situation at this time, and the land here is of a +considerable height, and diversified by bill and valley. + +<p>SECTION XXVI. + +<p><i>Transactions in Queen Charlotte's Sound: Passage through the Streight +which divides the two Islands, and back to Cape Turnagain: Horrid Custom +of the Inhabitants: Remarkable Melody of Birds: A Visit to a Heppah, and +many other Particulars</i>. + +<p>The shore at this place seemed to form several bays, into one of which I +proposed to carry the ship, which was become very foul, in order to +careen her, and at the same time repair some defects, and recruit our +wood and water. + +<p>With this view I kept plying on and off all night, having from eighty to +sixty-three fathom. At day-break the next morning, I stood for an inlet +which runs in S.W.; and at eight I got within the entrance, which may +be known by a reef of rocks, stretching from the north-west point, and +some rocky islands which lie off the south-east point. At nine o'clock, +there being little wind, and what there was being variable, we were +carried by the tide or current within two cables' length of the +north-west shore, where we had fifty-four fathom water, but by the help +of our boats we got clear. Just at this time we saw a sea-lion rise +twice near the shore, the head of which exactly resembled that of the +male which has been described in the account of Lord Anson's voyage. We +also saw some of the natives in a canoe cross the bay, and a village +situated upon the point of an island which lies seven or eight miles +within the entrance. At noon, we were the length of this island, but +there being little wind, the boats were ordered a-head to tow. About one +o'clock we hauled close round the southwest end of the island; and the +inhabitants of the village which was built upon it, were immediately up +in arms. About two, we anchored in a very safe and convenient cove, on +the north-west side of the bay, and facing the southwest end of the +island, in eleven fathom water, with soft ground, and moored with the +stream anchor. + +<p>We were about four long cannon-shot distant from the village or Heppah, +from which four canoes were immediately dispatched, as we imagined to +reconnoitre, and, if they should find themselves able, to take us. The +men were all well armed, and dressed nearly as they are represented in +the figure published by Tasman; two corners of the cloth which they +wrapped round the body were passed over the shoulders from behind, and +being brought down to the upper edge of it before, were made fast to it +just under the breast; but few, or none, had feathers in their hair. + +<p>They rowed round the ship several times, with their usual tokens of +menace and defiance, and at last began the assault, by throwing some +stones: Tupia expostulated with them, but apparently to very little +purpose; and we began to fear that they would oblige us to fire at them, +when a very old man in one of the boats expressed a desire of coming on +board. We gladly encouraged him in his design, a rope was thrown into +his canoe, and she was immediately alongside of the ship: The old man +rose up, and prepared to come up the ship's side, upon which all the +rest expostulated with great vehemence against the attempt, and at last +laid hold of him, and held him back: He adhered, however, to his +purpose, with a calm but steady perseverance, and having at length +disengaged himself, he came on board. We received him with all possible +expressions of friendship and kindness, and after some time dismissed +him, with many presents, to his companions. As soon as he was returned +on board his canoe, the people in all the rest began to dance, but +whether as a token of enmity or friendship we would not certainly +determine, for we had seen them dance in a disposition both for peace +and war. In a short time, however, they retired to their fort, and soon +after I went on shore, with most of the gentlemen, at the bottom of the +cove, a-breast of the ship. + +<p>We found a fine stream of excellent water, and wood in the greatest +plenty, for the land here was one forest, of vast extent. As we brought +the seine with us, we hauled it once or twice, and with such success, +that we caught near three hundred weight of fish, of different sorts, +which was equally distributed among the ship's company. + +<p>At day-break, while we were busy in careening the ship, three canoes +came off to us, having on board above a hundred men, besides several of +their women, which we were pleased to see, as in general it is a sign of +peace; but they soon afterwards became very troublesome, and gave us +reason to apprehend some mischief from them to the people that were in +our boats alongside the ship. While we were in this situation, the +long-boat was sent ashore with some water-casks, and some of the canoes +attempting to follow her, we found it necessary to intimidate them, by +firing some small shot: We were at such a distance, that it was +impossible to hurt them, yet our reproof had its effect, and they +desisted from the pursuit. They had some fish in their canoes, which +they now offered to sell, and which, though it stunk, we consented to +buy: For this purpose a man in a small boat was sent among them, and +they traded for some time very fairly. At length, however, one of them, +watching his opportunity, snatched at some paper which our market-man +held in his hand, and missing it, immediately put himself in a posture +of defence, flourishing his patoo-patoo, and making show as if he was +about to strike; some small-shot were then fired at him from the ship, a +few of which struck him upon the knee: This put an end to our trade, +but the Indians still continued near the ship, rowing round her many +times, and conversing with Tupia, chiefly concerning the traditions they +had among them with respect to the antiquities of their country. To this +subject they were led by the enquiries which Tupia had been directed to +make, whether they had ever seen such a vessel as ours, or had ever +heard that any such had been upon their coast. These enquiries were all +answered in the negative, so that tradition has preserved among them no +memorial of Tasman; though, by an observation made this day, we find +that we are only fifteen miles south of Murderer's bay, our latitude +being 41° 5' 32", and Murderer's bay, according to his account, being +40° 50'. + +<p>The women in these canoes, and some of the men, had a head-dress which +we had not before seen. It consisted of a bunch of black feathers, made +up in a round form, and tied upon the top of the head, which it entirely +covered, and made it twice as high, to appearance, as it was in reality. + +<p>After dinner, I went in the pinnace with Mr Banks, Dr Solander, Tupia, +and some others, into another cove, about two miles distant from that in +which the ship lay: In our way we saw something floating upon the water, +which we took for a dead seal, but upon rowing up to it, found it to be +the body of a woman, which to all appearance had been dead some days. We +proceeded to our cove, where we went on shore, and found a small family +of Indians, who appeared to be greatly terrified at our approach, and +all ran away except one. A conversation between this person and Tupia +soon brought hack the rest, except an old man and a child, who still +kept aloof, but stood peeping at us from the woods. Of these people, our +curiosity naturally led us to enquire after the body of the woman, which +we had seen floating upon the water: And they acquainted us, by Tupia, +that she was a relation, who had died a natural death; and that, +according to their custom, they had tied a stone to the body, and thrown +it into the sea, which stone, they supposed, had by some accident been +disengaged. + +<p>This family, when we came on shore, was employed in dressing some +provisions: The body of a dog was at this time buried in their oven, and +many provision baskets stood near it. Having cast our eyes carelessly +into one of these as we passed it, we saw two bones pretty cleanly +picked, which did not seem to be the bones of a dog, and which, upon a +nearer examination, we discovered to be those of a human body. At this +sight we were struck with horror, though it was only a confirmation of +what we had heard many times since we arrived upon this coast. As we +could have no doubt but the bones were human, neither could we have any +doubt that the flesh which covered them had been eaten. They were found +in a provision basket; the flesh that remained appeared manifestly to +have been dressed by fire, and in the gristles at the end, were the +marks of the teeth which had gnawed them: To put an end, however, to +conjecture, founded upon circumstances and appearances, we directed +Tupia to ask what bones they were; and the Indians, without the least +hesitation, answered, the bones of a man: They were then asked what was +become of the flesh, and they replied that they had eaten it; but, said +Tupia, why did you not eat the body of the woman which we saw floating +upon the water: The woman, said they, died of disease; besides, she was +our relation, and we eat only the bodies of our enemies, who are killed +in battle. Upon enquiry who the man was whose bones we had found, they +told us, that about five days before, a boat belonging to their enemies +came into the bay, with many persons on board, and that this man was one +of seven whom they had killed. Though stronger evidence of this horrid +practice prevailing among the inhabitants of this coast will scarcely be +required, we have still stronger to give. One of us asked if they had +any human bones with the flesh remaining upon them, and upon their +answering us that all had been eaten, we affected to disbelieve that the +bones were human, and said that they were the bones of a dog; upon which +one of the Indians with some eagerness took hold of his own fore-arm, +and thrusting it towards us, said, that the bone which Mr Banks held in +his hand had belonged to that part of a human body; at the same time, to +convince us that the flesh had been eaten, he took hold of his own arm +with his teeth, and made shew of eating: He also bit and gnawe'd the +bone which Mr Banks had taken, drawing it through his mouth, and +shewing, by signs, that it had afforded a delicious repast; the bone was +then returned to Mr Banks, and he brought it away with him. Among the +persons of this family, there was a woman who had her arms, legs, and +thighs frightfully cut in several places; and we were told that she had +inflicted the wounds upon herself, in token of her grief for the loss +of her husband, who had been lately killed and eaten by their enemies, +who had come from some place to the eastward, towards which the Indians +pointed. + +<p>The ship lay at the distance of somewhat less than a quarter of a mile +from the shore, and in the morning we were awakened by the singing of +the birds: The number was incredible, and they seemed to strain their +throats in emulation of each other. This wild melody was infinitely +superior to any that we had ever heard of the same kind; it seemed to be +like small bells, exquisitely tuned, and perhaps the distance and the +water between, might be no small advantage to the sound. Upon enquiry, +we were informed that the birds here always began to sing about two +hours after midnight, and continuing their music till sunrise, were, +like our nightingales, silent the rest of the day.[67] In the forenoon, +a small canoe came off from the Indian village to the ship, and among +those that were in it, was the old man who had first come on board at +our arrival in the bay. As soon as it came alongside, Tupia renewed the +conversation that had passed the day before, concerning their practice +of eating human flesh, during which they repeated what they had told us +already; but, said Tupia, where are the heads? do you eat them too? Of +the heads, said the old man, we eat only the brains, and the next time I +come I will bring some of them, to convince you that what we have told +you is truth. After some farther conversation between these people and +Tupia, they told him that they expected their enemies to come very +shortly, to revenge the death of the seven men whom they had killed and +eaten. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 67: This is a vulgar error, though at the same time a poetical +one. It is known that nightingales do sing in the day; but their song is +then less attended to or distinguished, because it forms a part only of +the harmony of the feathered choir.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 18th, the Indians were more quiet than usual, no canoe came near +the ship, nor did we see one of them moving on the shore, their fishing, +and other usual occupations, being totally suspended. We thought they +expected an attack on this day, and therefore attended more diligently +to what passed on shore; but we saw nothing to gratify our curiosity. + +<p>After breakfast, we went out in the pinnace, to take a view of the bay, +which was of vast extent, and consisted of numberless small harbours and +coves, in every direction: We confined our excursion, however, to the +western side, and the country being an impenetrable forest where we +landed, we could see nothing worthy of notice: We killed, however, a +good number of shaggs, which we saw sitting upon their nests in the +trees, and which, whether roasted or stewed, we considered as very good +provision. As we were returning, we saw a single man in a canoe fishing; +we rowed up to him, and to our great surprise he took not the least +notice of us, but even when we were alongside of him, continued to +follow his occupation, without adverting to us any more than if we had +been invisible. He did not, however, appear to be either sullen or +stupid: We requested him to draw up his net, that we might examine it, +and he readily complied: It was of a circular form, extended by two +hoops, and about seven or eight feet in diameter: The top was open, and +sea-ears were fastened to the bottom as a bait: This he let down so as +to lie upon the ground, and when he thought fish enough were assembled +over it, he drew it up by a very gentle and even motion, so that the +fish rose with it, scarcely sensible that they were lifted, till they +came very near the surface of the water, and then were brought out in +the net by a sudden jerk. By this simple method, he had caught abundance +of fish, and indeed they are so plenty in this bay, that the catching +them requires neither much labour nor art. + +<p>This day, some of our people found in the skirts of the wood, near a +hole or oven, three human hip-bones, which they brought on board; a +farther proof that these people eat human flesh: Mr Monkhouse, our +surgeon, also brought on board, from a place where he saw many deserted +houses, the hair of a man's head, which he had found, among many other +things, tied up to the branches of trees. + +<p>In the morning of the 19th, we set up the armourer's forge to repair the +braces of the tiller, and other iron-work, all hands on board being +still busy in careening, and other necessary operations about the +vessel: This day, some Indians came on board from another part of the +bay, where they said was a town which we had not seen: They brought +plenty of fish, which they sold for nails, having now acquired some +notion of their use; and in this traffic no unfair practice was +attempted. + +<p>In the morning of the 20th, our old man kept his promise, and brought +on board four of the heads of the seven people who had been so much the +subject of our enquiries: The hair and flesh were entire, but we +perceived that the brains had been extracted; the flesh was soft, but +had by some method been preserved from putrefaction, for it had no +disagreeable smell. Mr Banks purchased one of them, but they sold it +with great reluctance, and could not by any means be prevailed upon to +part with a second; probably they may be preserved as trophies, like the +scalps in America, and the jaw-bones in the islands of the South Seas. +Upon examining the head which had been bought by Mr Banks, we perceived +that it had received a blow upon the temples, which had fractured the +skull. This day we made another excursion in the pinnace, to survey the +bay, but we found no flat large enough for a potatoe garden, nor could +we discover the least appearance of cultivation: We met not a single +Indian, but found an excellent harbour, and about eight o'clock in the +evening returned on board the ship. + +<p>On the 21st, Mr Banks and Dr Solander went a-fishing with hook and line, +and caught an immense quantity every where upon the rocks, in between +four and five fathom water: The seine was hauled every night, and seldom +failed to supply the whole ship's company with as much fish as they +could eat. This day all the people had leave to go on shore at the +watering-place, and divert themselves as they should think proper. + +<p>In the morning of the 22d, I set out again in the pinnace, accompanied +by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, with a design to examine the head of the +inlet, but after rowing about four or five leagues without so much as +coming in sight of it, the wind being contrary, and the day half spent, +we went on shore on the south-east side, to try what might be discovered +from the hills. + +<p>Mr Banks and Dr Solander immediately employed themselves in botanizing +near the beach, and I, taking a seaman with me, ascended one of the +hills: When I reached the summit, I found a view of the inlet +intercepted by hills, which in that direction rose still higher, and +which were rendered inaccessible by impenetrable woods; I was, however, +abundantly compensated for my labour, for I saw the sea on the eastern +side of the country, and a passage leading from it to that on the west, +a little to the eastward of the entrance of the inlet where the ship now +lay. The main land, which lay on the south east of this inlet, appeared +to be a narrow ridge of very high hills, and to form part of the +south-west side of the streight; the land on the opposite side appeared +to trend away east as far as the eye could reach; and to the south-east +there appeared to be an opening to the sea, which washed the eastern +coast: On the east side of the inlet also I saw some islands which I had +before taken to be part of the main land. Having made this discovery, I +descended the hill, and as soon as we had taken some refreshment, we set +out on our return to the ship. In our way, we examined the harbours and +coves which lie behind the islands that I had discovered from the hill; +and in this route we saw an old village, in which there were many houses +that seemed to have been long deserted: We also saw another village +which was inhabited, but the day was too far spent for us to visit it, +and we therefore made the best of our way to the ship, which we reached +between eight and nine o'clock at night. + +<p>The 23d I employed in carrying on a survey of the place; and upon one of +the islands where I landed, I saw many houses which seemed to have been +long deserted, and no appearance of any inhabitant. + +<p>On the 24th, we went to visit our friends at the Hippah or village on +the point of the island near the ship's station, who had come off to us +on our first arrival in the bay. They received us with the utmost +confidence and civility, shewing us every part of their habitations, +which were commodious and neat. The island or rock on which this town is +situated, is divided from the main by a breach or fissure so narrow, +that a man might almost leap from one to the other: The sides of it are +every where so steep as to render the artificial fortification of these +people almost unnecessary: There was, however, one slight pallisade, and +one small fighting-stage, towards that part of the rock where access was +least difficult. + +<p>The people here brought us out several human bones, the flesh of which +they had eaten, and offered them to sale; for the curiosity of those +among us who had purchased them as memorials of the horrid practice, +which many, notwithstanding the reports of travellers, have professed +not to believe, had rendered them a kind of article of trade. In one +part of this village we observed, not without some surprise, a cross +exactly like that of a crucifix; it was adorned with feathers, and upon +our enquiring for what purpose it had been set up, we were told that it +was a monument for a man who was dead: We had before understood that +their dead were not buried, but thrown into the sea; but to our enquiry +how the body of the man had been disposed of, to whose memory this cross +had been erected, they refused to answer. + +<p>When we left these people, we went to the other end of the island, and +there taking water, crossed over to the main, where we saw several +houses but no inhabitants, except a few in some straggling canoes, that +seemed to be fishing. After viewing this place, we returned on board the +ship to dinner. + +<p>During our visit to the Indians this day, Tupia being always of our +party, they had been observed to be continually talking of guns, and +shooting people: For this subject of their conversation we could not at +all account; and it had so much engaged our attention, that we talked of +it all the way back, and even after we got on board the ship: We had +perplexed ourselves with various conjectures, which were all given up in +their turn; but now we learnt, that on the 21st one of our officers, +upon pretence of going out to fish, had rowed up to the Hippah, and that +two or three canoes coming off towards his boat, his fears suggested +that an attack was intended, in consequence of which three muskets were +fired, one with small shot, and two with ball, at the Indians, who +retired with the utmost precipitation, having probably come out with +friendly intentions, for such their behaviour both before and afterwards +expressed, and having no reason to expect such treatment from people who +had always behaved to them not only with humanity, but kindness, and to +whom they were not conscious of having given offence. + +<p>On the 25th, I made another excursion along the coast, in the pinnace, +towards the mouth of the inlet, accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, +and going on shore at a little cove, to shoot shags, we fell in with a +large family of Indians, whose custom it is to disperse themselves among +the different creeks and coves, where fish is to be procured in the +greatest plenty, leaving a few only in the Hippah, to which the rest +repair in times of danger. Some of these people came out a good way to +meet us, and gave us an invitation to go with them to the rest of their +party, which, we readily accepted. We found a company of about thirty, +men, women, and children, who received us with all possible +demonstrations of friendship: We distributed among them a few ribbands +and beads, and in return, received the kisses and embraces of both +sexes, both young and old: They gave us also some fish, and after a +little time we returned, much pleased with our new acquaintance. + +<p>In the morning of the 26th, I went again out in the boat, with Mr Banks +and Dr Solander, and entered one of the bays, which lie on the east side +of the inlet, in order to get another sight of the streight, which +passed between the eastern and western seas. For this purpose, having +landed at a convenient place, we climbed a hill of a very considerable +height, from which we had a full view of it, with the land on the +opposite shore, which we judged to be about four leagues distant; but as +it was hazy in the horizon, we could not see far to the south-east: I +resolved however to search the passage with the ship, as soon as I +should put to sea. Upon the top of this hill we found a parcel of loose +stones, with which we erected a pyramid, and left in it some +musket-balls, small shot, beads, and other things, which we happened to +have about us, that were likely to stand the test of time, and not being +of Indian workmanship, would convince any European who should come to +the place and pull it down, that other natives of Europe had been there +before him. When this was done we descended the hill, and made a +comfortable meal of the shags and fish which our guns and lines had +procured us, and which were dressed by the boat's crew in a place that +we had appointed: In this place we found another Indian family, who +received us, as usual, with strong expressions of kindness and pleasure, +shewing us where to procure water, and doing us such other good offices +as were in their power. From this place we went to the town, of which +the Indians had told us, who visited us on the 19th: This, like that +which we had seen before, was built upon a small island or rock, so +difficult of access, that we gratified our curiosity at the risk of our +necks. The Indians here also received us with open arms, carried us to +every part of the place, and shewed us all that it contained: This town, +like the other, consisted of between eighty and an hundred houses, and +had only one fighting-stage. We happened to have with us a few nails and +ribbands, and some paper, with which our guests were so gratified, that +at our coming away they filled our boat with dried fish, of which we +perceived they had laid up great quantities. + +<p>The 27th and 28th were spent in refitting the ship for the sea, fixing a +transom for the tiller, getting stones on board to put into the bottom +of the bread-room, to bring the ship more by the stern, in repairing the +casks, and catching fish. + +<p>On the 29th, we received a visit from our old man, whose name we found +to be <i>Topaa</i>, and three other natives, with whom Tupia had much +conversation. The old man told us, that one of the men who had been +fired upon by the officer who had visited their Hippah, under pretence +of fishing, was dead; but to my great comfort I afterwards discovered +that this report was not true, and that if Topaa's discourses were taken +literally, they would frequently lead us into mistakes. Mr Banks and Dr +Solander were several times on shore during the last two or three days, +not without success, but greatly circumscribed in their walks by +climbers of a most luxuriant growth, which were so interwoven together, +as to fill up the space between the trees about which they grew, and +render the woods altogether impassable. This day also I went on shore +again myself, upon the western, point of the inlet, and from a hill of +considerable height, I had a view of the coast to the N.W. The farthest +land I could see in that quarter, was an island which has been mentioned +before, at the distance of about ten leagues, lying not far from the +main: Between this island and the place where I stood, I discovered, +close under the shore, several other islands, forming many bays, in +which there appeared to be good anchorage for shipping. After I had set +off the different points for my survey, I erected another pile of +stones, in which I left a piece of silver coin, with some musket-balls +and beads, and a piece of an old pendant flying on the top. In my return +to the ship, I made a visit to several of the natives, whom I saw along +the shore, and purchased a small quantity of fish. + +<p>On the 30th, early in the morning, I sent a boat to one of the islands +for celery, and while the people were gathering it, about twenty of the +natives, men, women, and children, landed near some empty huts: As soon +as they were on shore, five or six of the women sat down, upon the +ground together, and began to cut their legs, arms, and faces, with +shells, and sharp pieces of talc or jasper, in a terrible manner. Our +people understood that their husbands had lately been killed by their +enemies; but while they were performing this horrid ceremony, the men +set about repairing the huts, with the utmost negligence and unconcern. +The carpenter having prepared two posts to be left as memorials of our +having visited this place, I ordered them to be inscribed with the +ship's name, and the year and month; one of them I set up at the +watering-place, hoisting the union flag upon the top of it; and the +other I carried over to the island that lies nearest to the sea, called +by the natives <i>Motuara</i>. I went first to the village or Hippah, +accompanied by Mr Monkhouse and Tupia, where I met with our old man, and +told him and several others, by means of Tupia, that we were come to set +up a mark upon the island, in order to show to any other ship which +should happen to come thither, that we had been there before. To this +they readily consented, and promised that they never would pull it down: +I then gave something to every one present; and to the old man I gave a +silver threepence, dated 1736, and some spike nails, with the king's +broad arrow cut deep upon them; things which I thought most likely to +remain long among them: I then took the post to the highest part of the +island, and after fixing it firmly in the ground, I hoisted upon it the +union-flag, and honoured this inlet with the name of <i>Queen Charlotte's +Sound</i>, at the same time taking formal possession of this and the +adjacent country, in the name and for the use of his majesty King George +the Third. We then drank a bottle of wine to her majesty's health, and +gave the bottle to the old man who had attended us up the hill, and who +was mightily delighted with his present. + +<p>While the post was setting up, we enquired of the old man concerning the +passage into the eastern sea, the existence of which he confirmed; and +then asked him about the land to the S.W. of the streight, where we were +then situated: This land, he said, consisted of two Whennuas or islands, +which might be circumnavigated in a few days, and which he called <i>Tovy +Poenammoo</i>; the literal translation of this word is, "the water of green +talc:" and probably, if we had understood him better, we should have +found that Tovy Poenammoo was the name of some particular place where +they got the green talc or stone of which they make their ornaments and +tools, and not a general name for the whole southern district: He said, +there was also a third Whennua, on the east side of the streight, the +circumnavigation of which would take up many moons: This he called +<i>Eaheinomauwe</i>; and to the lands on the borders of the streight he gave +the name of <i>Tiera Witte</i>. Having set up our post, and procured this +intelligence, we returned on board the ship, and brought the old man +with us, who was attended by his canoe, in which, after dinner, he +returned home. + +<p>On the 31st, having completed our wooding, and filled all our water +casks, I sent out two parties, one to cut and make brooms, and another +to catch fish. In the evening, we had a strong gale from the N.W. with +such a heavy rain, that our little wild musicians on shore suspended +their song, which till now we had constantly heard during the night, +with a pleasure which it was impossible to lose without regret. + +<p>On the 1st, the gale increased to a storm, with heavy gusts from the +high land, one of which broke the hawser, that we had fastened to the +shore, and obliged us to let go another anchor. Towards midnight, the +gale became more moderate, but the rain continued with such violence, +that the brook which had supplied us with water overflowed its banks, +and carried away ten small casks which had been left there full of +water, and notwithstanding we searched the whole cove, we could never +recover one of them. + +<p>On the 3d, as I intended to sail the first opportunity, I went over to +the Hippah on the east side of the Sound, and purchased a considerable +quantity of split and half-dried fish, for sea stores. The people here +confirmed all that the old man had told us concerning the streight and +the country, and about noon I took leave of them: Some of them seemed to +be sorry, and others glad that we were going: The fish which I bought +they sold freely, but there were some who shewed manifest signs of +disapprobation. As we returned to the ship, some of us made an excursion +along the shore to the northward, to traffic with the natives for a +farther supply of fish; in which, however, they had no great success. In +the evening, we got every thing off from the shore, as I intended to +sail in the morning, but the wind would not permit. + +<p>On the 4th, while we were waiting for a wind, we amused ourselves by +fishing, and gathering shells and seeds of various kinds; and early in +the morning of the 5th, we cast off the hawser, hove short on the bower, +and carried the kedge-anchor out in order to warp the ship out of the +cove, which having done about two o clock in the afternoon, we hove up +the anchor and got under sail; but the wind soon failing, we were +obliged to come to an anchor again a little above Motuara. When we were +under sail, our old man Topaa came on board to take his leave of us, and +as we were still desirous of making farther enquiries whether any memory +of Tasman had been preserved among these people, Tupia was directed to +ask him whether he had ever heard that such a vessel as ours had before +visited the country. To this he replied in the negative, but said, that +his ancestors had told him there had once come to this place a small +vessel, from a distant country, called <i>Ulimaroa</i>, in which were four +men, who, upon their coming on shore, were all killed: Upon being asked +where this distant land lay, he pointed to the northward. Of Ulimaroa we +had heard something before from the people about the Bay of Islands, who +said that their ancestors had visited it; and Tupia had also talked to +us of Ulimaroa, concerning which he had some confused traditionary +notions, not very different from those of our old man, so that we could +draw no certain conclusion from the accounts of either. + +<p>Soon after the ship came to an anchor the second time, Mr Banks and Dr +Solander went on shore, to see if any gleanings of natural knowledge +remained, and by accident fell in with the most agreeable Indian family +they had seen, which afforded them a better opportunity of remarking the +personal subordination among these people, than had before offered. The +principal persons were a widow, and a pretty boy about ten years old: +The widow was mourning for her husband with tears of blood, according to +their custom, and the child, by the death of its father, was become +proprietor of the land where we had cut our wood. The mother and the son +were sitting upon matts, and the rest of the family, to the number of +sixteen or seventeen, of both sexes, sat round them in the open air, for +they did not appear to have any house, or other shelter from the +weather, the inclemencies of which, custom has probably enabled them to +endure without any lasting inconvenience. Their whole behaviour was +affable, obliging, and unsuspicious; they presented each person with +fish, and a brand of fire to dress it, and pressed them many times to +stay till the morning, which they would certainly have done if they had +not expected the ship to sail, greatly regretting that they had not +become acquainted with them sooner, as they made no doubt but that more +knowledge of the manners and disposition of the inhabitants of this +country would have been obtained from them in a day, than they had yet +been able to acquire during our whole stay upon the coast. + +<p>On the 6th, about six o'clock in the morning, a light breeze sprung up +at north, and we again got under sail, but the wind proving variable, we +reached no farther than just without Motuara; in the afternoon, however, +a more steady gale at N. by W. set us clear of the Sound, which I shall +now describe. + +<p>The entrance of Queen Charlotte's Sound is situated in latitude 41° S. +longitude 184° 45' W. and near the middle of the south-west side of the +streight in which it lies. The land of the south-east head of the Sound, +called by the natives <i>Koamaroo</i>, off which lie two small islands and +some rocks, makes the narrowest part of the streight. From the +north-west head a reef of rocks runs out about two miles, in the +direction of N.E. by N.; part of which is above the water, and part +below. By this account of the heads, the Sound will be sufficiently +known: At the entrance, it is three leagues broad, and lies in S.W. by +S.S.W. and W.S.W. at least ten leagues, and is a collection of some of +the finest harbours in the world, as will appear from the plan, which is +laid down with all the accuracy that time and circumstances would admit. +The land forming the harbour or cove in which we lay, is called by the +natives <i>Totarranue</i>: The harbour itself, which I called <i>Ship Cove</i>, is +not inferior to any in the Sound, either for convenience or safety: It +lies on the west side of the Sound, and is the southermost of three +coves, that are situated within the island of Motuara, which bears east +of it. Ship Cove may be entered, either between Motuara and a long +island, called by the natives <i>Hamote</i>, or between Motuara and the +western shore. In the last of these channels are two ledges of rocks, +three fathom under water, which may easily be known by the sea-weed that +grows upon them. In sailing either in or out of the Sound, with little +wind, attention must be had to the tides, which flow about nine or ten +o'clock at the fall and change of the moon, and rise and fall between +seven and eight feet perpendicularly. The flood comes in through the +streight from the S.E. and sets strongly over upon the north-west head, +and the reef that lies off it: The ebb sets with still greater rapidity +to the S.E. over upon the rocks and islands that lie off the south-east +head. The variation of the compass we found from good observation to be +13° 5' E. + +<p>The land about this Sound, which is of such a height that we saw it at +the distance of twenty leagues, consists wholly of high hills and deep +vallies, well stored with a variety of excellent timber, fit for all +purposes except masts, for which it is too hard and heavy. The sea +abounds with a variety of fish, so that without going out of the cove +where we lay, we caught every day, with the seine and hooks and lines, a +quantity sufficient to serve the whole ship's company: And along the +shore we found plenty of shags, and a few other species of wild-fowl, +which those who have long lived upon salt provisions will not think +despicable food. + +<p>The number of inhabitants scarcely exceeds four hundred, and they live +dispersed along the shores, where their food, consisting of fish and +fern roots, is most easily procured; for we saw no cultivated ground. +Upon any appearance of danger, they retire to their Hippahs, or forts; +in this situation we found them, and in this situation they continued +for some time after our arrival. In comparison of the inhabitants of +other parts of this country, they are poor, and their canoes are without +ornament; the little traffic we had with them was wholly for fish, and +indeed they had scarcely any thing else to dispose of. They seemed, +however, to have some knowledge of iron, which the inhabitants of some +other parts had not; for they willingly took nails for their fish, and +sometimes seemed to prefer it to every thing else that we could offer, +which had not always been the case. They were at first very fond of +paper; but when they found that it was spoiled by being wet, they would +not take it: Neither did they set much value upon the cloth of Otaheite; +but English broad-cloth, and red kersey, were in high estimation; which +shewed that they had sense enough to appreciate the commodities which we +offered by their use, which is more than could be said of some of their +neighbours, who made a much better appearance. Their dress has been +mentioned already, particularly their large round head-dresses of +feathers, which were far from being unbecoming. + +<p>As soon as we got out of the Sound I stood over to the eastward, in +order to get the streight well open before the tide of ebb came on. At +seven in the evening, the two small islands which lie off Cape Koamaroo, +the south-east head of Queen Charlotte's Sound, bore east, distant about +four miles: At this time it was nearly calm, and the tide of ebb setting +out, we were, in a very short time, carried by the rapidity of the +stream close upon one of the islands, which was a rock rising almost +perpendicularly out of the sea: We perceived our danger increase every +moment, and had but one expedient to prevent our being dashed to pieces, +the success of which a few minutes would determine. We were now within +little more than a cable's length of the rock, and had more than +seventy-five fathom water; but upon dropping an anchor, and veering +about one hundred and fifty fathom of cable, the ship was happily +brought up: This, however, would not have saved us, if the tide which +set S. by E. had not, upon meeting with the island, changed its +direction to S.E. and carried us beyond the first point. In this +situation, we were not above two cables' length, from the rocks; and +here we remained in the strength of the tide, which set to the S.E. +after the rate of at least five miles an hour, from a little after seven +till near midnight, when the tide abated, and we began to heave. By +three in the morning the anchor was at the bows, and having a light +breeze at N.W. we made sail for the eastern shore; but the tide being +against us, we made but little way: The wind however afterwards +freshened, and came to N. and N.E. with which, and the tide of ebb, we +were in a short time hurried through the narrowest part of the straight, +and then stood away for the southermost land we had in sight, which bore +from us S. by W. Over this land appeared a mountain of stupendous +height, which was covered with snow. + +<p>The narrowest part of the streight, through which we had been driven +with such rapidity, lies between Cape Tierawitte, on the coast of +Eaheinomawe, and Cape Koamaroo: The distance between them I judged to be +between four or five leagues, and notwithstanding the tide, now its +strength is known, may be passed without much danger. It is however +safest to keep on the north-east shore, for on that side there appeared +to be nothing to fear; but on the other shore there are not only the +islands and rocks which lie off Cape Koamaroo, but a reef of rocks +stretching from these islands six or seven miles to the southward, at +the distance of two or three miles from the shore, which I had +discovered from the hill when I took my second view of the streight from +the east to the western sea. The length of the streight we had passed I +shall not pretend to assign, but some judgment may be formed of it from +a view of the chart. + +<p>About nine leagues north from Cape Tierawitte, and under the same shore, +is a high and remarkable island which may be distinctly seen from Queen +Charlotte's Sound, from which it is distant about six or seven leagues. +This island, which was noticed when we passed it on the 14th of January, +I have called <i>Entry Isle</i>. + +<p>On the east side of Cape Tierawitte, the land trends away S.E. by E. +about eight leagues, where it ends in a point, and is the southermost +land on Eaheinomawe. To this point I have given the name of <i>Cape +Palliser</i>, in honour of my worthy friend Captain Palliser. It lies in +latitude 41° 34,' S. longitude 183° 56' W. and bore from us this day at +noon S. 79 E. distant about thirteen leagues, the ship being then in the +latitude of 41° 27' S.; Koamaroo at the same time bearing N. 1/2 E. +distant seven or eight leagues. The southermost land in sight bore S. 16 +W. and the snowy mountain S.W. At this time we were about three leagues +from the shore, and abreast of a deep bay or inlet, to which I gave the +name of <i>Cloudy Bay</i>, and at the bottom of which there appeared low land +covered with tall trees. + +<p>At three o'clock in the afternoon we were abreast of the southermost +point of land that we had seen at noon, which I called Cape Campbell; it +lies S. by W. distant between twelve and thirteen leagues from Cape +Koamaroo, in latitude 41° 44' S. longitude 185° 45' W.; and with Cape +Palliser forms the southern entrance of the streight, the distance +between them being between thirteen and fourteen leagues W. by S. and E. +by N. + +<p>From this cape we steered along the shore S.W. by S. till eight o'clock +in the evening, when the wind died away. About half an hour afterwards, +however, a fresh breeze sprung up at S.W. and I put the ship right +before it. My reason for this was a notion which some of the officers +had just started, that Eaheinomauwe was not an island, and that the +land might stretch away to the S.E. from between Cape Turnagain and Cape +Palliser, there being a space of between twelve and fifteen leagues that +we had not seen. I had indeed the strongest conviction that they were +mistaken, not only from what I had seen the first time I discovered the +streight, but from many other concurrent testimonies that the land in +question was an island; but being resolved to leave no possibility of +doubt with respect to an object of such importance, I took the +opportunity of the wind's shifting, to stand eastward, and accordingly +steered N.E. by E. all the night. At nine o'clock in the morning we were +abreast of Cape Palliser, and found the land trend away N.E. towards +Cape Turnagain, which I reckoned to be distant about twenty-six leagues: +However, as the weather was hazy, so as to prevent our seeing above four +or five leagues, I still kept standing to the N.E. with a light breeze +at south; and at noon Cape Palliser bore N. 72 W. distant about three +leagues. + +<p>About three o'clock in the afternoon, three canoes came up to the ship +with between thirty and forty people on board, who had been pulling +after us with great labour and perseverance for some time: They appeared +to be more cleanly, and a better class, than we had met with since we +left the Bay of Islands, and their canoes were also distinguished by the +same ornaments which we had seen upon the northerly part of the coast. +They came on board with very little invitation; and their behaviour was +courteous and friendly: Upon receiving presents from us, they made us +presents in return, which had not been done by any of the natives that +we had seen before. We soon perceived that our guests had heard of us, +for as soon as they came on board, they asked for <i>whow</i>, the name by +which nails were known among the people with whom we had trafficked: but +though they had heard of nails, it was plain they had seen none; for +when nails were given them, they asked Tupia what they were. The term +<i>whow</i>, indeed, conveyed to them the idea not of their quality, but only +of their use; for it is the same by which they distinguish a tool, +commonly made of bone, which they use both as an auger and a chisel. +However, their knowing that we had <i>whow</i> to sell was a proof that their +connections extended as far north as Cape Kidnappers, which was distant +no less than forty-five leagues; for that was the southermost place on +this side the coast where we had had any traffic with the natives. It is +also probable, that the little knowledge which the inhabitants of Queen +Charlotte's Sound had of iron, they obtained from their neighbours at +Tierawitte; for we had no reason to think that the inhabitants of any +part of this coast had the least knowledge of iron or its use before we +came among them, especially as when it was first offered they seemed to +disregard it, as of no value. We thought it probable, that we were now +once more in the territories of Teratu; but upon enquiring of these +people, they said that he was not their king. After a short time, they +went away, much gratified with the presents that we had made them; and +we pursued our course along the shore to the N.E. till eleven o'clock +the next morning. About this time the weather happening to clear up, we +saw Cape Turnagain, bearing N. by E. 1/2 E. at the distance of about +seven leagues: I then called the officers upon deck, and asked them, +whether they were not now satisfied, that Eahienomauwe was an island; +they readily answered in the affirmative, and all doubts being now +removed, we hauled our wind to the eastward. + +<p>SECTION XXVII. + +<p><i>Range from Cape Turnagain southward along the eastern Coast of +Poenammoo, round Cape South, and bade to the western Entrance of Cook's +Streight, which completed the Circumnavigation of this Country; with a +Description of the Coast, and of Admiralty Bay: The Departure from New +Zealand, and various Particulars</i>. + +<p>At four o'clock in the afternoon of Friday the 9th of February, we +tacked, and stood S.W. till eight o'clock the next morning; when, being +not above three or four miles from the shore, we stood off two hours, +and then again S.W. till noon, when, at the distance of about two miles +from the shore, we had twenty-six fathom water. + +<p>We continued to make sail to the southward till sunset on the 11th, when +a fresh breeze at N.E. had carried us back again the length of Cape +Palliser, of which, as the weather was clear, we had a good view. It is +of a height sufficient to be seen in clear weather at the distance of +twelve or fourteen leagues, and the land is of a broken and hilly +surface. Between the foot of the high land and the sea there is a low +flat border, off which there are some rocks that appear above water. +Between this Cape and Cape Turnagain, the land near the shore is, in +many places, low and flat, and has a green and pleasant appearance; but +farther from the sea it rises into hills. The land between Cape Palliser +and Cape Tierawitte is high, and makes in table-points; it also seemed +to us to form two bays, but we were at too great a distance from this +part of the coast to judge accurately from appearances. The wind having +been variable, with calms, we had advanced no farther by the 12th at +noon than latitude 41° 52', Cape Palliser then bearing north, distant +about five leagues; and the snowy mountain S. 83 W. + +<p>At noon on the 13th, we found ourselves in the latitude of 42° 2' S.; +Cape Palliser bearing N. 20 E. distant eight leagues. In the afternoon, +a fresh gale sprung up at N.E. and we steered S.W. by W. for the +southermost land in sight, which at sun-set bore from us S. 74 W. At +this time the variation was 15° 4' E. + +<p>At eight o'clock on the morning of the 14th, having run one-and-twenty +leagues S. 58 W. since the preceding noon, it fell calm. We were then +abreast of the snowy mountain which bore from us N.W. and in this +direction lay behind a mountainous ridge of nearly the same height, +which rises directly from the sea, and runs parallel with the shore, +which lies N.E. 1/2 N. and S.W. 1/2 S. The north-west end of the ridge +rises inland, not far from Cape Campbell; and both the mountain and the +ridge are distinctly seen as well from Cape Koamaroo as Cape Palliser: +From Koamaroo they are distant two-and-twenty leagues S.W. 1/2 S.; and +from Cape Palliser thirty leagues W.S.W.; and are of a height sufficient +to be seen at a much greater distance. Some persons on board were of +opinion that they were as high as Teneriffe; but I did not think them as +high as Mount Egmont on the south-west coast of Eahienomauwe; because +the snow, which almost entirely covered Mount Egmont, lay only in +patches upon these. At noon this day, we were in latitude 42° 34' S. The +southermost land in sight bore S.W. 1/2 S.; and some low land that +appeared like an island, and lay close under the foot of the ridge, bore +N.W. by N. about five or six leagues. + +<p>In the afternoon, when Mr Banks was out in the boat a-shooting, we saw +with our glasses, four double canoes, having on board fifty-seven men, +put off from that shore, and make towards him: We immediately made +signals for him to come on board; but the ship, with respect to him, +being right in the wake of the sun, he did not see them. We were at a +considerable distance from the shore, and he was at a considerable +distance from the ship, which was between him and the shore; so that, it +being a dead calm, I began to be in some pain for him, fearing that he +might not see the canoes time enough to reach the ship before they +should get up with him: Soon after, however, we saw his boat in motion, +and had the pleasure to take him on board before the Indians came up, +who probably had not seen him, as their attention seemed to be wholly +fixed upon the ship. They came within about a stone's cast, and then +stopped, gazing at us with a look of vacant astonishment: Tupia exerted +all his eloquence to prevail upon them to come nearer, but without any +effect. After surveying us for some time, they left us, and made towards +the shore; but had not measured more than half the distance between that +and the ship before it was dark. We imagined that these people had heard +nothing of us, and could not but remark the different behaviour and +dispositions of the inhabitants of the different parts of this coast +upon their first approaching the vessel. These kept aloof with a mixture +of timidity and wonder: Others had immediately commenced hostilities, by +pelting us with stones: The gentleman whom we had found alone, fishing +in his boat, seemed to think us entirely unworthy of his notice; and +some, almost without invitation, had come on board with an air of +perfect confidence and good-will. From the behaviour of our last +visitors, I gave the land from which they had put off, and which, as I +have before observed, had the appearance of an island, the name of +Lookers-on. + +<p>At eight o'clock in the evening, a breeze sprung up at S.S.W. with which +I stretched of south-east, because some on board thought they saw land +in that quarter. In this course we continued till six o'clock the next +morning, when we had run eleven leagues, but saw no land, except that +which we had left. Having stood to the S.E. with a light breeze, which +veered from the west to the north, till noon, our latitude by +observation was 42° 56' S., and the high land that we were abreast of +the preceding noon bore N.N.W. 1/2 W. In the afternoon we had a light +breeze at N.E. with which we steered west, edging in for the land, which +was distant about eight leagues. At seven in the evening, we were about +six leagues from the shore, and the southermost extremity of the land in +sight bore W.S.W. + +<p>At day-break on the 16th, we discovered land bearing S. by W. and +seemingly detached from the coast we were upon. About eight, a breeze +sprung up, at N. by E. and we steered directly for it. At noon, we were +in latitude 43° 19' S. the peak on the snowy mountain bore N. 20 E. +distant twenty-seven leagues; the southern extremity of the land we +could see bore west, and the land which had been discovered in the +morning appeared like an island extending from S.S.W. to S.W. by W. 1/2 +W. distant about eight leagues. In the afternoon, we stood to the +southward of it, with a fresh breeze at north: At eight in the evening, +we had run eleven leagues, and the land then extended from S.W. by W. to +N. by W. We were then distant about three or four leagues from the +nearest shore, and in this situation had fifty fathom water, with a fine +sandy bottom. The variation of the compass by this morning's amplitude +was 14° 39' E. + +<p>At sun-rise, the next morning, our opinion that the land we had been +standing for was an island, was confirmed, by our seeing part of the +land of Tovy Poenammoo open to the westward of it, extending as far as +W. by S. At eight in the morning, the extremes of the island bore N. 76 +W. and N.N.E. 1/2 E.; and an opening near the south point, which had the +appearance of a bay or harbour, N. 20 W. distant between three and four +leagues: In this situation we had thirty-eight fathom water, with a +brown sandy bottom. + +<p>This island, which I named after Mr Banks, lies about five leagues from +the coast of Tovy Poenamoo; the south point bears S. 21 W. from the +highest peak on the snowy mountain, and lies in latitude 43° 32' S. and +in longitude 186° 30' W. by an observation of the sun and moon which was +made this morning: It is of a circular figure, and about twenty-four +leagues in compass: It is sufficiently high to be seen at the distance +of twelve or fifteen leagues, and the land has a broken irregular +surface, with the appearance rather of barrenness than fertility; yet it +was inhabited, for we saw smoke in one place, and a few straggling +natives in another. + +<p>When this island was first discovered in the direction of S. by W. some +persons on board were of opinion that they also saw land bearing S.S.E. +and S.E. by E. I was myself upon the deck at the time, and told them, +that in my opinion it was no more than a cloud, and that as the sun rose +it would dissipate and vanish. However, as I was determined to leave no +subject for disputation which experiment could remove, I ordered the +ship to be wore, and steered E.S.E. by compass, in the direction which +the land was said to bear from us at that time. At noon, we were in +latitude 44° 7' S.; the south point of Banks's Island bearing north, +distant five leagues. By seven o'clock at night we had run +eight-and-twenty miles, when seeing no land, nor any signs of any, but +that which we had left, we bore away S. by W. and continued upon that +course till the next day at noon, when we were in latitude 45° 16', the +south point of Banks's Island bearing N. 6° 30' W. distant twenty-eight +leagues. The variation by the azimuth this morning was 15° 30' E. As no +signs of land had yet appeared to the southward, and as I thought that +we had stood far enough in that direction to weather all the land we had +left, judging from the report of the natives in Queen Charlotte's Sound, +I hauled to the westward. + +<p>We had a moderate breeze at N.N.W.N. till eight in the evening, when it +became unsettled; and at ten fixed at south: During the night, it blew +with such violence that it brought us under our close reefed topsails. +At eight the next morning, having run twenty-eight leagues upon a W. by +N. 1/2 N. course, and judging ourselves to be to the westward of the +land of Tovy Poenammoo, we bore away N.W. with a fresh gale at south. At +ten, having run eleven miles upon this course, we saw land extending +from the S.W. to the N.W. at the distance of about ten leagues, which we +hauled up for. At noon, our latitude by observation was 44° 38', the +south-east point of Banks's Island bore N. 58° 30' E. distant thirty +leagues, and the main body of the land in sight W. by N. A head sea +prevented us from making much way to the southward; at seven in the +evening the extremes of the land stretched from S.W. by S. to N. by W.; +and at six leagues from the shore we had thirty-two fathom water. At +four o'clock the next morning, we stood in for the shore W. by S. and +during a course of four leagues, our depth of water was from thirty-two +to thirteen fathom. When it was thirteen fathom we were but three miles +distant from the shore, and therefore stood off; its direction is here +nearly N. and S. The surface, to the distance of about five miles from +the sea, is low and flat; but it then rises into hills of a considerable +height. It appeared to be totally barren, and we saw no signs of its +being inhabited. Our latitude, at noon, was 44° 44'; and the longitude +which we made from Banks's Island to this place was 2° 22' W. During the +last twenty-four hours, though we carried as much sail as the ship would +bear, we were driven three leagues to the leeward. + +<p>We continued to stand off and on all this day and the next, keeping at +the distance of between four and twelve leagues from the shore, and +having water from thirty-five to fifty-three fathom. On the 22d, at +noon, we had no observation, but by the land judged ourselves to be +about three leagues farther north than we had been the day before. At +sun-set, the weather, which had been hazy, clearing up, we saw a +mountain which rose in a high peak, bearing N.W. by N.; and at the same +time, we saw the land more distinctly than before, extending from N. to +S.W. by S. which, at some distance within the coast, had a lofty and +mountainous appearance. We soon found that the accounts which had been +given us by the Indians in Queen Charlotte's Sound of the land to the +southward were not true; for they had told us that it might be +circumnavigated in four days. + +<p>On the 23d, having a hollow swell from the S.E. and expecting wind from +the same quarter, we kept plying between seven and fifteen leagues from +the shore, having from seventy to forty-four fathom. At noon, our +latitude by observation was 44° 40' S. and our longitude from Banks's +Island 1° 31' W. From this time to six in the evening it was calm; but a +light breeze then springing up at E.N.E. we steered S.S.E. all night, +edging off from the land, the hollow swell still continuing; our depth +of water was from sixty to seventy-five fathom. While we were becalmed, +Mr Banks, being out in the boat, shot two Port Egmont hens, which were +in every respect the same as those that are found in great numbers upon +the island of Faro, and were the first of the kind we had seen upon this +coast, though we fell in with some a few days before we made land. + +<p>At day-break, the wind freshened, and before noon we had a strong gale +at N.N.E. At eight in the morning we saw the land extending as far as +S.W. by S. and steered directly for it. At noon, we were in latitude 45° +22' S.; and the land, which now stretched from S.W. 1/2 S. to N.N.W. +appeared to be rudely diversified by hill and valley. In the afternoon, +we steered S.W. by S. and S.W. edging in for the land with a fresh gale +at north; but though we were at no great distance, the weather was so +hazy that we could see nothing distinctly upon it, except a ridge of +high hills, lying not far from the sea, and parallel to the coast, which +in this place stretches S. by W. and N. by E. and seemed to end in a +high bluff point to the southward. By eight in the evening we were +abreast of this point; but it being then dark, and I not knowing which +way the land trended, we brought-to for the night. At this time, the +point bore west, and was distant about five miles: Our depth of water +was thirty-seven fathom, and the bottom consisted of small pebbles. + +<p>At day-break, having made sail, the point bore north, distant three +leagues, and we now found that the land trended from it S.W. by W. as +far as we could see. This point I named Cape Saunders, in honour of Sir +Charles. Our latitude was 45° 35' S., and longitude 189° 4' W. By the +latitude, and the angles that are made by the coast, this point will be +sufficiently known; there is, however, about three or four leagues to +the south-west of it, and very near the shore, a remarkable saddle-hill, +which is a good direction to it on that quarter. From one league to four +leagues north of Cape Saunders, the shore forms two or three bays, in +which there appeared to be good anchorage, and effectual shelter from +the S.W. westerly, and N. westerly winds; but my desire of getting to +the southward, in order to ascertain whether this country was an island +or a continent, prevented my putting into any of them. + +<p>We kept at a small distance from the shore all this morning, with the +wind at S.W., and had a very distinct view of it: It is of a moderate +height, and the surface is broken by many hills which are green and +woody; but we saw no appearance of inhabitants. At noon, Cape Saunders +bore N. 30 W. distant about four leagues. We had variable winds and +calms till five o'clock in the evening, when it fixed at W.S.W. and soon +blew so hard that it put us past our topsail, and split the foresail +all to pieces: After getting another to the yard, we continued to stand +to the southward under two courses; and at six the next morning, the +southermost land in sight bore W. by N. and Cape Saunders N. by W. +distant eight leagues: At noon, it bore N. 20 W. fourteen leagues; and +our latitude by observation was 46° 36'. The gale continued, with heavy +squalls and a large hollow sea all the afternoon; and at seven in the +evening, we lay-to under our foresail, with the ship's head to the +southward: At noon on the 27th, our latitude was 46° 54', and our +longitude from Cape Saunders 1° 24' E. At seven in the evening, we made +sail under our courses; and at eight the next morning set the top-sails +close reefed. At noon, our latitude was 47° 43', and our longitude east +from Cape Saunders 2° 10'. At this time we wore and stood to the +northward: In the afternoon, we found the variation to be 16° 34' E. At +eight in the evening, we tacked and stood to the southward, with the +wind at west. + +<p>At noon, this day, our latitude, by account, was 47° 52', and our +longitude from Cape Saunders 1° 8' E. We stood to the southward till +half an hour past three in the afternoon; and then, being in latitude +48° S. and longitude 188° W., and seeing no appearance of land, we +tacked and stood to the northward, having a large swell from the S.W. by +W. At noon, the next day, our latitude was 46° 42' S.; and Cape Saunders +bore N. 46 W. distant eighty-six miles. The south-west swell continuing +till the 3d, confirmed our opinion, that there was no land in that +quarter. At four in the afternoon, we stood to the westward with all the +sail we could make. In the morning of the 4th, we found the variation to +be 16° 16' E. This day we saw some whales and seals, as we had done +several times after our having passed the streight; but we saw no seals +while we were upon the coast of Eahienomauwe. We sounded both in the +night and this morning, but had no ground with one hundred and fifty +fathom. At noon, we saw Cape Saunders bearing N. 1/2 W.; and our +latitude by observation was 46° 31' S. At half an hour past one o'clock, +we saw land bearing W. by S., which we steered for, and before it was +dark were within three or four miles of it: During the whole night we +saw fires upon it, and at seven in the morning were within about three +leagues of the shore, which appeared to be high, but level. At three +o'clock in the afternoon, we saw the land extending from N.E. by N. to +N.W. 1/2 N.; and soon after we discovered some low land, which appeared +like an island, bearing S. 1/2 W. We continued our course to the W. by +S., and in two hours we saw high land over the low land, extending to +the southward as far as S.W. by S.; but it did not appear to be joined +to the land to the northward, so that there is either water, a deep bay, +or low land between them. + +<p>At noon on the 6th, we were nearly in the same situation as at noon on +the day before: In the afternoon we found the variation, by several +azimuths and the amplitude, to be 15° 10' E. On the 7th at noon, we were +in latitude 47° 6' S. and had made twelve miles easting during the last +twenty-four hours. We stood to the westward the remainder of this day, +and all the next till sun-set, when the extremes of the land bore from +N. by E. to W. distant about seven or eight leagues: In this situation +our depth of water was fifty-five fathom, and the variation by amplitude +16° 29' E. The wind now veered from the N. to the W., and as we had fine +weather, and moon-light, we kept standing close upon the wind to the +S.W. all night. At four in the morning, we had sixty fathom water; and +at day-light, we discovered under our bow a ledge of rocks, extending +from S. by W. to W. by S. upon which the sea broke very high: They were +not more than three quarters of a mile distant, yet we had +five-and-forty fathom water. As the wind was at N.W. we could not now +weather them, and as I was unwilling to run to leeward, I tacked and +made a trip to the eastward; the wind however soon after coming to the +northward, enabled us to get clear of all. Our soundings, while we were +passing within the ledge, were from thirty-five to forty-seven fathom, +with a rocky bottom. + +<p>This ledge lies S.E. six leagues from the southermost part of the land, +and S.E. by E. from some remarkable hills which stand near the shore: +About three leagues to the northward of it, there is another ledge, +which lies full three leagues from the shore, and on which the sea broke +in a dreadful surf. As we passed these rocks to the north in the night, +and discovered the others under our bow at break of day, it is manifest +that our danger was imminent, and our escape critical in the highest +degree: From the situation of these rocks, so well adapted to catch +unwary strangers, I called them the <i>Traps</i>. Our latitude at noon was +47° 26' S. The land in sight, which had the appearance of an island, +extended from N.E. by N. to N.W. by W. and seemed to be about five +leagues distant from the main; the eastermost ledge of rocks bore S.S.E. +distant one league and a half, and the northermost N.E. 1/2 E. distant +about three leagues. This land is high and barren, with nothing upon it +but a few straggling shrubs, for not a single tree was to be seen; it +was however remarkable for a number of white patches which I took to be +marble, as they reflected the sun's rays very strongly: Other patches of +the same kind we had observed in different parts of this country, +particularly in Mercury Bay: We continued to stand close upon a wind to +the westward, and at sun-set the southermost point of land bore N. 38 E. +distant four leagues, and the westermost land in sight bore N. 2 E. The +point which lies in latitude 47° 19' S. longitude.192° 12' W. I named +<i>South Cape</i>; the westermost land was a small island, lying off the +point of the main. + +<p>Supposing South Cape to be the southern extremity of this country, as +indeed it proved to be, I hoped to get round it by the west, for a large +hollow swell from the south-west, ever since our last hard gale, had +convinced me that there was no land in that direction. + +<p>In the night we had a hard gale at N.E. by N. and N. which brought us +under our courses, but about eight in the morning it became moderate; +and at noon veering to the west, we tacked and stood to the northward, +having no land in sight. Our latitude, by observation, was 47° 33' S. +our longitude, west from the South Cape, 59'. We stood away N.N.E. close +upon a wind, without seeing any land, till two the next morning, when we +discovered an island bearing N.W. by N. distant about five leagues: +About two hours afterwards we saw land a-head, upon which we tacked and +stood off till six, when we stood in to take a nearer view of it: At +eleven we were within three leagues of it, but the wind seeming to +incline upon the shore, I tacked and stood off to the southward. We had +now sailed round the land which we had discovered on the 5th, and which +then did not appear to be joined to the main which lay north of it; and +being now come to the other side of what we supposed to be water, a bay, +or low land, it had the same appearance, but when I came to lay it down +upon paper I saw no reason to suppose it to be an island; on the +contrary, I was clearly of opinion that it made part of the main. At +noon, the western extremity of the main bore N. 59 W., and the island +which we had seen in the morning S. 59 W. distant about five leagues. +It lies in latitude 46° 31' S. longitude 192° 49' W., and is nothing +but a barren rock about a mile in circuit, remarkably high, and lies +full five leagues distant from the main. This island I named after Dr +Solander, and called it <i>Solander's Island</i>. The shore of the main lies +nearest E. by S. and W. by N. and forms a large open bay, in which there +is no appearance of any harbour or shelter for shipping against S.W. and +southerly winds: The surface of the country is broken into craggy hills, +of a great height, on the summits of which are several patches of snow: +It is not, however, wholly barren, for we could see wood not only in the +vallies, but upon the highest ground, yet we saw no appearance of its +being inhabited. + +<p>We continued to stand to the S.W. by S. till eleven o'clock the next +morning, when the wind shifted to the S.W. by W., upon which we wore, +and stood to the N.N.W., being then in latitude 47° 40' S. longitude +193° 50' W., and having a hollow sea from the S.W. + +<p>During the night, we steered N.N.W. till six in the morning, when, +seeing no land, we steered N. by E. till eight, when we steered N.E. by +E. 1/2 E. to make the land, which at ten we saw bearing E.N.E., but it +being hazy, we could distinguish nothing upon it. At noon, our latitude, +by observation, was 46° S. About two it cleared up, and the land +appeared to be high, rude, and mountainous.: About half an hour after +three I hauled in for a bay, in which there appeared to be good +anchorage; but in about an hour, finding the distance too great to run +before it would be dark, and the wind blowing too hard to make the +attempt safe in the night, I bore away along the shore. + +<p>This bay, which I called <i>Dusky Bay</i>, lies in latitude 45° 47' S.: It is +between three and four miles broad at the entrance, and seems to be full +as deep as it is broad: It contains several islands, behind which there +must be shelter from all winds, though possibly there may not be +sufficient depth of water. The north point of this bay, when it bears +S.E. by S, is rendered very remarkable by five high peaked rocks which +lie off it, and have the appearance of the four fingers and thumb of a +man's hand, for which reason I called it <i>Point Five Fingers</i>: The land +of this point is farther remarkable, for being the only level land +within a considerable distance. It extends near two leagues to the +northward, is lofty, and covered with wood. The land behind it is very +different, consisting wholly of mountains, totally barren and rocky; and +this difference gives the Cape the appearance of an island. + +<p>At sun-set, the southermost land in sight bore due south, distant about +five or six leagues; and as this is the westermost point of land upon +the whole coast, I called it <i>West Cape</i>. It lies about three leagues to +the southward of Dusky Bay, in the latitude of 45° 54' S. and in the +longitude of 193° 17' W. The land of this Cape is of a moderate height +next the sea, and has nothing remarkable about it, except a very white +cliff, two or three leagues to the southward of it: To the southward of +it also the land trends away to the S.E. and to the northward it trends +N.N.E. + +<p>Having brought-to for the night, we made sail along the shore at four in +the morning, in the direction of N.E. 1/2 N. with a moderate breeze at +S.S.E. At noon, our latitude, by observation, was 45° 18' S. At this +time, being about a league and a half from the shore, we sounded, but +had no ground with seventy fathom: We had just passed a small narrow +opening in land, where there seemed to be a very safe and convenient +harbour, formed by an island, which lay in the middle of the opening at +east. The opening lies in latitude 45° 16' S., and on the land behind it +are mountains, the summits of which were covered with snow, that +appeared to have been recently fallen; and indeed for two days past we +had found the weather very cold. On each side the entrance of the +opening, the land rises almost perpendicularly from the sea to a +stupendous height, and this indeed was the reason why I did not carry +the ship into it, for no wind could blow there but right in, or right +out, in the direction of either east or west, and I thought it by no +means advisable to put into a place whence I could not have got out but +with a wind which experience had taught me did not blow more than one +day in a month. In this, however, I acted contrary to the opinion of +some persons on board, who in very strong terms expressed their desire +to harbour for present convenience, without any regard to future +disadvantages. + +<p>In the evening, being about two leagues from the shore, we sounded, and +had no ground with 108 fathom: The variation of the needle, by azimuth, +was 14° E. and by amplitude 15° 2'. We made the best of our way along +the shore with what wind we had, keeping at the distance of between two +and three leagues. At noon, we were in latitude 44° 47', having run only +twelve leagues upon a N.E. 1/4 N. course, during the last +four-and-twenty hours. + +<p>We continued to steer along the shore, in the direction of N.E. 1/4 E. +till six o'clock in the evening, when we brought-to for the night. At +four in the morning, we stood in for the land, and when the day broke we +saw what appeared to be an inlet; but upon a nearer approach proved to +be only a deep valley between two high lands: We proceeded therefore in +the same course, keeping the shore at the distance of between four and +five miles. At noon on the 16th, the northermost point of land in sight +bore N. 60 E. at the distance of ten miles; and our latitude, by +observation, was 44° 5', our longitude from Cape West 3° 8' E. About +two, we past the point which at noon had been distant ten miles, and +found it to consist of high red cliffs, down which there fell a cascade +of water in four small streams, and I therefore gave it the name of +<i>Cascade Point</i>. From this Point the land trends first N. 76 E. and +afterwards more to the northward. At the distance of eight leagues from +Cascade Point, in the direction of E.N.E. and at a little distance from +the shore, lies a small low island, which bore from us S. by E. at the +distance of about a league and a half. + +<p>At seven in the evening, we brought-to, in thirty-three fathom, with a +fine sandy bottom; at ten we had fifty fathom, and at twelve wore in +sixty-five fathom, having driven several miles N.N.W. after our having +brought-to. At two in the morning, we had no ground with 140 fathom, by +which it appears that the soundings extend but a little way from the +shore. About this time it fell calm; at eight, a breeze sprung up at +S.W. with which we steered along the shore, in the direction of N.E. by +E. 1/2 E. at the distance of about three leagues. At six in the evening, +being about one league from the shore, we had seventeen fathom; and at +eight, being about three leagues from the shore, we had forty-four; we +now shortened sail, and brought-to, having run ten leagues N.E. by E. +since noon. + +<p>It was calm most part of the night; but at ten in the morning a light +breeze sprung up at S.W. by W. when we made sail again along the shore +N.E. by N., having a large swell from the W.S.W. which had risen in the +night; at noon, our latitude, by observation, was 43° 4' S. and our +longitude from Cape West 4° 12' E. We observed, that the vallies as well +as the mountains were this morning covered with snow, part of which we +supposed to have fallen during the night, when we had rain. At six in +the evening we shortened sail, and at ten brought-to, at the distance of +about five leagues from the shore, where we had 115 fathom. At midnight, +there being little wind, we made sail, and at eight in the morning we +stood to the N.E. close upon a wind till noon, when we tacked, being +about three leagues from the land, and, by observation, in latitude 42° +8' and longitude from Cape West 5° 5' E. + +<p>We continued to stand westward till two in the morning, when we made a +trip to the eastward, and afterwards stood westward till noon, when, by +our reckoning, we were in the latitude 42° 23', and longitude from Cape +West 3° 55' E. We now tacked and stood eastward, with a fresh gale at N. +by W. till six in the evening, when the wind shifted to the S. and +S.S.W. with which we steered N.E. by N. till six in the morning, when we +hauled in E. by N. to make the land, which we saw soon afterwards; at +noon, our latitude, by account, was 41° 37', and our longitude from Cape +West 5° 42' E. We were now within three or four leagues of the land, but +it being foggy, we could see nothing upon it distinctly, and as we had +much wind, and a vast swell rolling in upon the shore, from the W.S.W. I +did not think it safe to go nearer. + +<p>In the afternoon, we had a gentle breeze from the S.S.W. with which we +steered north along the shore till eight, when, being within between two +and three leagues, we sounded, and had but thirty-four fathom; upon +which we hauled off N.W. by N. till eleven at night, and then +brought-to, having sixty-four fathom. At four in the morning, we made +sail to the N.E. with a light breeze at S.S.W. which at eight veered to +the westward, and soon after died away; at this time we were within +three or four miles of the land, and had fifty-four fathom, with a large +swell from the W.S.W. rolling obliquely upon the shore, which made me +fear that I should be obliged to anchor; but by the help of a light air +now and then from the S.W. I was able to keep the ship from driving. At +noon, the northermost land in sight bore N.E. by E. 1/2 E. distant about +ten leagues; our latitude, by account, was 40° 55' S. longitude from +Cape West 6° 35' E. From this time we had light airs from the southward, +with intervals of calm, till noon on the 23d, when our latitude, by +observation, was 40° 36' 30" S. and our longitude from Cape West 6° 52' +E. The eastermost point of land in sight bore E. 10 N. at the distance +of seven leagues, and a bluff head or point, of which we had been +abreast at noon the day before, and off which lay some rocks above +water, bore S. 18 W. at the distance of six leagues. This point I called +<i>Rock's Point</i>. Our latitude was now 40° 55' S., and having nearly run +down the whole of the north-west coast of Tovy Poenammoo, I shall give +some account of the face of the country. + +<p>I have already observed, that on the 11th, when we were off the southern +part, the land then seen was craggy and mountainous; and there is great +reason to believe that the same ridge of mountains extends nearly the +whole length of the island. Between the westernmost land which we saw +that day, and the easternmost which we saw on the 13th, there is a space +of about six or eight leagues, of which we, did not see the coast, +though we plainly discovered the mountains inland. The sea-coast near +Cape West is low, rising with an easy and gradual ascent to the foot of +the mountains, and being in most parts covered with wood. From Point +Five Fingers, down to latitude 44° 26', there is a narrow ridge of hills +that rises directly from the sea, and is covered with wood: Close behind +these hills are the mountains, extending in another ridge of a +stupendous height, and consisting of rocks that are totally barren and +naked, except where they are covered with snow, which is to be seen in +large patches upon many parts of them, and has probably lain there ever +since the creation of the world: A prospect more rude, craggy, and +desolate than this country affords from the sea, cannot possibly be +conceived, for as far inland as the eye can reach, nothing appears but +the summits of rocks, which stand so near together, that instead of +vallies there are only fissures between them. From the latitude of 44° +20', to the latitude of 42° 8', these mountains lie farther inland, and +the sea-coast consists of woody hills and valleys, of various height +and extent, and has much appearance of fertility: Many of the vallies +form plains of considerable extent, wholly covered with wood, but it is +very probable that the ground, in many places, is swampy, and +interspersed with pools of water. From latitude 42° 8', to 41° 30', the +land is not distinguished by any thing remarkable: It rises into hills +directly from the sea, and is covered with wood; but the weather being +foggy while we were upon this part of the coast, we could see very +little inland, except now and then the summits of the mountains, +towering above the cloudy mists that obscured them below, which +confirmed my opinion that a chain of mountains extended from one end of +the island to the other. + +<p>In the afternoon, we had a gentle breeze at S.W., which, before it was +quite dark, brought us abreast of the eastern point which we had seen at +noon; but not knowing what course the land took on the other side of it, +we brought-to in thirty-four fathom, at the distance of about one league +from the shore. At eight in the evening, there being little wind, we +filled and stood on till midnight, and then we brought-to till four in +the morning, when we again made sail, and at break of day we saw low +land extending from the point to the S.S.E. as far as the eye could +reach, the eastern extremity of which appeared in round hillocks: By +this time the gale had veered to the eastward, which obliged us to ply +to windward. At noon next day, the eastern point bore S.W. by S. distant +sixteen miles, and our latitude was 40° 19': The wind continuing +easterly, we were nearly in the same situation at noon on the day +following. About three o'clock the wind came to the westward, and we +steered E.S.E. with all the sail we could set till it was dark, and then +shortened sail till the morning: As we had thick hazy weather all night, +we kept sounding continually, and had from thirty-seven to forty-two +fathom. When the day broke we saw land bearing S.E. by E. and an island +lying near it, bearing E.S.E. distant about five leagues: This island I +knew to be the same that I had seen from the entrance of Queen +Charlotte's Sound, from which it bears N.W. by N. distant nine leagues. +At noon, it bore south, distant four or five miles, and the north-west +head of the Sound S.E. by S. distant ten leagues and a half. Our +latitude, by observation, was 40° 33' S. + +<p>As we had now circumnavigated the whole country, it became necessary to +think of quitting it; but as I had thirty tons of empty water casks on +board, this could not be done till I had filled them: I therefore hauled +round the island, and entered a bay which lies between that and Queen +Charlotte's Sound, leaving three more islands, which lay close under the +western shore, between three or four miles within the entrance, on our +starboard hand: While we were running in, we kept the lead continually +going, and had from forty to twelve fathom. At six o'clock in the +evening, we anchored in eleven fathom with a muddy bottom, under the +west shore, in the second cove, that lies within the three islands; and +as soon as it was light the next morning, I took a boat, and went on +shore to look for a watering-place, and a proper birth for the ship, +both which I found, much to my satisfaction. As soon as the ship was +moored, I sent an officer on shore to superintend the watering, and the +carpenter, with his crew, to cut wood, while the long-boat was employed +in landing the empty casks. + +<p>In this employment we were busy till the 30th, when the wind seeming to +settle at S.E. and our water being nearly completed, we warped the ship +out of the cove, that we might have room to get under sail: And at noon +I went away in the pinnace to examine as much of the bay as my time +would admit. + +<p>After rowing about two leagues up it, I went ashore upon a point of land +on the western side, and having climbed a hill, I saw the western arm of +this bay run in S.W. by W. about five leagues farther, yet I could not +discover the end of it: There appeared to be several other inlets, or at +least small bays, between this and the north-west head of Queen +Charlotte's Sound, in each of which, I make no doubt, there is anchorage +and shelter, as they are all covered from the sea-wind by the islands +which lie without them. The land about this bay, as far as I could see +of it, is of a hilly surface, chiefly covered with trees, shrubs, and +fern, which render travelling difficult and fatiguing. In this excursion +I was accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, who found several new +plants. We met with some huts, which seemed to have been long deserted, +but saw no inhabitants. Mr Banks examined several of the stones that +lay upon the beach, which were full of veins, and had a mineral +appearance; but he did not discover any thing in them which he knew to +be ore: If he had had an opportunity to examine any of the bare rocks, +perhaps he might have been more fortunate. He was also of opinion that +what I had taken for marble in another place, was a mineral substance; +and that, considering the correspondence of latitude between this place +and South America, it was not improbable but that, by a proper +examination, something very valuable might be found. + +<p>At my return in the evening, I found all the wood and water on board, +and the ship ready for the sea; I resolved therefore to quit the +country, and return home by such a route as might be of most advantage +to the service; and upon this subject took the opinion of my officers. I +had myself a strong desire to return by Cape Horn, because that would +have enabled me finally to determine, whether there is or is not a +southern continent; but against this it was a sufficient objection that +we must have kept in a high southern latitude in the very depth of +winter, with a vessel which was not thought sufficient for the +undertaking: And the same reason was urged against our proceeding +directly for the Cape of Good Hope, with still more force, because no +discovery of moment could be hoped for in that route; it was therefore +resolved that we should return by the East Indies, and that with this +view we should, upon leaving the coast, steer westward, till we should +fall in with the east coast of New Holland, and then follow the +direction of that coast to the northward, till we should arrive at its +northern extremity; but if that should be found impracticable, it was +further resolved that we should endeavour to fall in with the land, or +islands, said to have been discovered by Quiros. + +<p>With this view, at break of day on Saturday the 31st of March, 1770, we +got under sail, and put to sea, with the advantage of a fresh gale at +S.E. and clear weather, taking our departure from the eastern point, +which we had seen at noon on the 23d, and to which, on this occasion I +gave the name of <i>Cape Farewell</i>. + +<p>The bay out of which we had just sailed I called <i>Admiralty Bay</i>, giving +the name of <i>Cape Stephens</i> to the northwest point, and <i>Cape Jackson</i> +to the south-east, after the two gentlemen who at this time were +secretaries to the board. + +<p>Admiralty Bay may easily be known by the island that has been just +mentioned, which lies two miles N.E. of Cape Stephens, in latitude 40° +37' S. longitude 185° 6' W., and is of a considerable height. Between +this island and Cape Farewell, which are between fourteen and fifteen +leagues distant from each other, in the direction of W. by N. and E. by +S. the shore forms a large deep bay, the bottom of which we could +scarcely see while we were sailing in a straight line from one Cape to +the other; it is, however, probably of less depth than it appeared to +be, for as we found the water shallower here, than at the same distance +from any other part of the coast, there is reason to suppose, that the +land at the bottom which lies next the sea is low, and therefore not +easily to be distinguished from it. I have for this reason called it +<i>Blind Bay</i>, and am of opinion that it is the same which was called +Murderer's Bay by Tasman.[68] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 68: The three following sections of the original are occupied +by unsatisfactory accounts of New Zealand, which it seemed very +unadvisable to give here, as the subject must be resumed when we come to +the third voyage of Captain Cook. It was equally objectionable to +anticipate fuller information <i>now</i>, and to repeat imperfect notices +<i>hereafter</i>. The present omission will be made up to the reader's +content. We now go on with the remainder of the narrative.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION XXVIII. + +<p><i>The Run from New Zealand to Botany Bay, on the East Coast of New +Holland, now called New South Wales; various Incidents that happened +there; with some Account of the Country and its Inhabitants</i>. + +<p>Having sailed from Cape Farewell, which lies in latitude 40° 33' S., +longitude 186° W., on Saturday the 31st of March, 1770, we steered +westward, with a fresh gale at N.N.E., and at noon on the 2d of April, +our latitude, by observation, was 40°, our longitude from Cape Farewell +2° 31' W. + +<p>In the morning of the 9th, being in latitude 38° 29' S. we saw a tropic +bird which in so high a latitude is very uncommon. + +<p>In the morning of the 10th, being in latitude 38° 51' S., longitude 202° +43' W., we found the variation, by the amplitude, to be 11° 25' E. and +by the azimuth 11° 20'. + +<p>In the morning of the 11th, the variation was 13° 48', which is two +degrees and a half more than the day before, though I expected to have +found it less. + +<p>In the course of the 13th, being in latitude 39° 23' S., longitude 204° +2' W., I found the variation to be 12° 27' E., and in the morning of the +14th, it was 11° 30'; this day we also saw some flying fish. On the +15th, we saw an egg bird and a gannet, and as these are birds that never +go far from the land, we continued to sound all night, but had no ground +with 130 fathom. At noon on the 16th, we were in latitude 39° 45' S., +longitude 208° W. At about two o'clock the wind came about to the W.S.W. +upon which we tacked and stood to the N.W.; soon after, a small +land-bird perched upon the rigging, but we had no ground with 120 +fathom. At eight we wore and stood to the southward till twelve at +night, and then wore and stood to the N.W. till four in the morning, +when we again stood to the southward, having a fresh gale at W.S.W. with +squalls and dark weather till nine, when the weather became clear, and +there being little wind, we had an opportunity to take several +observations of the sun and moon, the mean result of which gave 207° 56' +W. longitude: Our latitude at noon was 39° 36' S. We had now a hard gale +from the southward, and a great sea from the same quarter, which obliged +us to run under our fore-sail and mizen all night, during which we +sounded every two hours, but had no ground with 120 fathom. + +<p>In the morning of the 18th, we saw two Port Egmont hens, and a pintado +bird, which are certain signs of approaching land, and indeed by our +reckoning we could not be far from it, for our longitude was now one +degree to the westward of the east side of Van Diemen's land, according +to the longitude laid down by Tasman, whom we could not suppose to have +erred much in so short a run as from this land to New Zealand, and by +our latitude we could not be above fifty or fifty-five leagues from the +place whence he took his departure. All this day we had frequent +squalls and a great swell. At one in the morning we brought-to and +sounded, but had no ground with 130 fathom; at six we saw land extending +from N.E. to W. at the distance of five or six leagues, having eighty +fathom, water with a fine sandy bottom. + +<p>We continued standing westward, with the wind at S.S.W. till eight, when +we made all the sail we could, and bore away along the shore N.E. for +the eastermost land in sight, being at this time in latitude 37° 58' S., +and longitude 210° 39' W. The southermost point of land in sight, which +bore from us W. 1/4 S., I judged to lie in latitude 38°, longitude 211° +7', and gave it the name of <i>Point Hicks</i>, because Mr Hicks, the first +lieutenant, was the first who discovered it. To the southward of this +Point no land was to be seen, though it was very clear in that quarter, +and by our longitude, compared with that of Tasman, not as it is laid +down in the printed charts, but in the extracts from Tasman's journal, +published by Rembrantse, the body of Van Diemen's land ought to have +borne due south; and indeed, from the sudden falling of the sea after +the wind abated, I had reason to think it did; yet as I did not see it, +and as I found this coast trend N.E. and S.W. or rather more to the +eastward, I cannot determine whether it joins to Van Diemen's land or +not.[69] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 69: This part of geography has been a good deal improved since +Cook's time, as will be illustrated in progress. Van Diemen's land, +which was formerly reckoned a part of New Holland, and is marked as such +in the accompanying chart, is separated from it by Bass's Strait, which +is about 30 leagues in breadth,' and contains several groups of islands. +Of these more hereafter.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At noon, we were in latitude 370° 5', longitude 210° 29' W. The extremes +of the land extended from N.W. to E.N.E. and a remarkable point bore N. +20 E. at the distance of about four leagues. This point rises in a round +hillock, very much resembling the Ram-Head at the entrance of Plymouth +Sound, and therefore I called it by the same name. The variation by an +azimuth, taken this morning, was 3° 7' E.; and what we had now seen of +the land, appeared low and level: The sea-shore was a white sand, but +the country within was green and woody. About one o'clock, we saw three +water spouts at once; two were between us and the shore, and the third +at some distance, upon our larboard quarter: This phenomenon is so well +known, that it is not necessary to give a particular description of it +here. + +<p>At six o'clock in the evening, we shortened sail, and brought-to for the +night, having fifty-six fathom water, and a fine sandy bottom. The +northermost land in sight then bore N. by E. 1/2 E., and a small island +lying close to a point on the main bore W. distant two leagues. This +point, which I called <i>Cape Howe</i>, may be known by the trending of the +coast, which is north on the one side, and south-west on the other; it +may also be known by some round hills upon the main, just within it. + +<p>We brought-to for the night, and at four in the morning made sail along +shore to the northward. At six, the northermost land in sight bore +N.N.W. and we were at this time about four leagues from the shore. At +noon, we were in latitude 36° 51' S. longitude 209° 53' W. and about +three leagues distant from the shore. The weather being clear, gave us a +good view of the country, which has a very pleasing appearance: It is of +a moderate height, diversified by hills and vallies, ridges and plains, +interspersed with a few lawns of no great extent, but in general covered +with wood: The ascent of the hills and ridges is gentle, and the summits +are not high. We continued to sail along the shore to the northward, +with a southerly wind, and in the afternoon we saw a smoke in several +places, by which we knew the country to be inhabited. At six in the +evening, we shortened sail, and sounded: We found forty-four fathom +water, with a clear sandy bottom, and stood on under an easy sail till +twelve, when we brought-to for the night, and had ninety fathom water. + +<p>At four in the morning, we made sail again, at the distance of about +five leagues from the land, and at six, we were abreast of a high +mountain, lying near the shore, which, on account of its figure, I +called <i>Mount Dromedary</i>: Under this mountain the shore forms a point, +to which I gave the name of <i>Point Dromedary</i>, and over it there is a +peaked hillock. At this time, being in latitude 36° 18' S., longitude +209° 55' W. we found the variation to be 10° 42' E. + +<p>Between ten and eleven, Mr Green and I took several observations of the +sun and moon, the mean result of which gave 209° 17' longitude W. By an +observation made the day before, our longitude was 210° 9' W., from. +which 20' being subtracted, there remains 209° 49', the longitude of the +ship this day at noon, the mean of which, with this day's observation, +gives 209° 33', by which I fix the longitude of this coast. At noon, our +latitude was 35° 49' S., Cape Dromedary bore S. 30 W., at the distance +of twelve leagues, and an open bay, in which were three or four small +islands, bore N.W. by W. at the distance of five or six leagues. This +bay seemed to afford but little shelter from the sea winds, and yet it +is the only place where there appeared a probability of finding +anchorage upon the whole coast. We continued to steer along the shore N. +by E. and N.N.E. at the distance of about three leagues, and saw smoke +in many places near the beach. At five in the evening, we were abreast +of a point of land which rose in a perpendicular cliff, and which, for +that reason, I called <i>Point Upright</i>. Our latitude was 35° 35' S. when +this point bore from us due west, distant about two leagues: In this +situation, we had about thirty-one fathom water with a sandy bottom. At +six in the evening, the wind falling, we hauled off E.N.E. and at this +time the northermost land in sight bore N. by E. 1/2 E. At midnight, +being in seventy fathom water, we brought-to till four in the morning, +when we made sail in for the land; but at day-break, found our situation +nearly the same as it had been at five the evening before, by which it +was apparent that we had been driven about three leagues to the +southward, by a tide or current, during the night. After this we steered +along the shore N.N.E. with a gentle breeze at S.W., and were so near +the land as to distinguish several of the natives upon the beach, who +appeared to be of a black, or very dark colour. At noon, our latitude, +by observation, was 35° 27' S. and longitude 209° 23' W.; Cape Dromedary +bore S. 28 W. distant nineteen leagues, a remarkable peaked hill, which +resembled a square dove-house, with a dome at the top, and which for +that reason I called the <i>Pigeon House</i>, bore N. 32° 30' W., and a small +low island, which lay close under the shore, bore N.W. distant about two +or three leagues. When I first discovered this island, in the morning, I +was in hopes from its appearance, that I should have found shelter for +the ship behind it, but when we came near it, it did not promise +security even for the landing of a boat: I should however have attempted +to send a boat on shore, if the wind had not veered to that direction, +with a large hollow sea rolling in upon the land from the S.E. which +indeed had been the case ever since we had been upon it. The coast still +continued to be of a moderate height, forming alternately rocky points +and sandy beaches; but within, between Mount Dromedary and the Pigeon +House, we saw high mountains, which, except two, are covered with wood: +These two lie inland behind the Pigeon House, and are remarkably flat at +the top, with steep rocky cliffs all round them as far as we could see. +The trees, which almost every where clothe this country, appear to be +large and lofty. This day the variation was found to be 9° 50' E., and +for the two last days, the latitude, by observation, was twelve or +fourteen miles to the southward of the ship's account, which could have +been the effect of nothing but a current setting in that direction. +About four in the afternoon, being near five leagues from the land, we +tacked and stood off S.E. and E., and the wind having veered in the +night, from E. to N.E. and N., we tacked about four in the morning, and +stood in, being then about nine or ten leagues from the shore. At eight, +the wind began to die away, and soon after it was calm. At noon, our +latitude, by observation, was 35° 38', and our distance from the land +about six leagues. Cape Dromedary bore S. 37 W. distant seventeen +leagues, and the Pigeon House N. 40 W.: In this situation we had 74 +fathom water. In the afternoon, we had variable light airs and calms, +till six in the evening, when a breeze sprung up at N. by W.: At this +time, being about four or five leagues from the shore, we had seventy +fathom water. The Pigeon House bore N. 45 W. Mount Dromedary S. 30 W. +and the northermost land in sight N. 19 E. + +<p>We stood to the north-east till noon the next day, with a gentle breeze +at N.W., and then we tacked and stood westward. At this time, our +latitude, by observation, was 35° 10' S., and longitude 208° 51' W. A +point of land which I had discovered on St George's day, and which +therefore I called <i>Cape George</i>, bore W. distant nineteen miles, and +the Pigeon House (the latitude and longitude of which I found to be 35° +19' S. and 209° 42' W.) S. 75 W. In the morning, we had found the +variation, by amplitude, to be 7° 50' E. and by several azimuths 7° 54' +E. We had a fresh breeze at N.W. from noon till three; it then came to +the west, when we tacked and stood to the northward. At five in the +evening, being about five or six leagues from the shore, with the Pigeon +House bearing W.S.W. distant about nine leagues, we had eighty-six +fathom water; and at eight, having thunder and lightning, with heavy +squalls, we brought-to in 120 fathom. + +<p>At three in the morning, we made sail again to the northward, having the +advantage of a fresh gale at S.W. At noon, we were about three or four +leagues from the shore, and in latitude 34° 22' S., longitude 208° 36' +W. In the course of this day's run from the preceding noon, which was +forty-five miles north-east, we saw smoke in several places near the +beach. About two leagues to the northward of Cape George, the shore +seemed to form a bay, which promised shelter from the north-east winds, +but as the wind was with us, it was not in my power to look into it +without beating up, which would have cost me more time than I was +willing to spare. The north point of this bay, on account of its figure, +I named <i>Long Nose</i>; its latitude is 35° 6', and about eight leagues +north of it there lies a point, which, from the colour of the land about +it, I called <i>Red Point</i>: Its latitude is 34° 29', and longitude 208° +45' W. To the north-west of Red Point, and a little way inland, stands a +round hill, the top of which looks like the crown of a hat. In the +afternoon of this day, we had a light breeze at N.N.W. till five in the +evening, when it fell calm: At this time, we were between three and four +leagues from the shore, and had forty-eight fathom water: The variation +by azimuth was 8° 48' E. and the extremities of this land were from N.E. +by N. to S.W. by S. Before it was dark, we saw smoke in several places +along the shore, and a fire two or three times afterwards. During the +night we lay becalmed, driving in before the sea till one in the +morning, when we got a breeze from the land, with which we steered N.E. +being then in thirty-eight fathom. At noon, it veered to N.E. by N. and +we were then in latitude 34° 10' S., longitude 208° 27' W.: The land was +distant about five leagues, and extended from S. 37 W. to N. 1/2 E. In +this latitude, there are some white cliffs, which rise perpendicularly +from the sea to a considerable height. We stood off the shore till two +o'clock, and then tacked and stood in till six, when we were within four +or five miles of it, and at that distance had fifty fathom water. The +extremities of the land bore from S. 28 W. to N. 25° 30' E. We now +tacked and stood off till twelve, then tacked and stood in again till +four in the morning, when we made a trip off till day-light; and during +all this time we lost ground, owing to the variableness of the winds. We +continued at the distance of between four and five miles from the shore, +till the afternoon, when we came within two miles, and I then hoisted +out the pinnace and yawl to attempt a landing, but the pinnace proved to +be so leaky that I was obliged to hoist her in again. At this time we +saw several of the natives walking briskly along the shore, four of whom +carried a small canoe upon their shoulders: We flattered ourselves that +they were going to put her into the water, and come off to the ship, but +finding ourselves disappointed, I determined to go on shore in the yawl, +with as many as it would carry: I embarked, therefore, with only Mr +Banks, Dr Solander, Tupia, and four rowers: We pulled for that part of +the shore where the Indians appeared, near which four small canoes were +lying at the water's edge. The Indians sat down upon the rocks, and +seemed to wait for our landing; but to our great regret, when we came +within about a quarter of a mile, they ran away into the woods: We +determined however to go ashore, and endeavour to procure an interview, +but in this we were again disappointed, for we found so great a surf +beating upon every part of the beach, that landing with our little boat +was altogether impracticable: We were therefore obliged to be content +with gazing at such objects as presented themselves from the water: The +canoes, upon a near view, seemed very much to resemble those of the +smaller sort at New Zealand. We observed, that among the trees on shore, +which were not very large, there was no underwood; and could distinguish +that many of them were of the palm kind, and some of them cabbage trees: +After many a wishful look we were obliged to return, with our curiosity +rather excited than satisfied, and about five in the evening got on +board the ship. About this time it fell calm, and our situation was by +no means agreeable: We were now not more than a mile and a half from the +shore, and within some breakers, which lay to the southward; but happily +a light breeze came off the land, and carried us out of danger. With +this breeze we stood to the northward, and at day-break we discovered a +bay, which seemed to be well sheltered from all winds, and into which +therefore I determined to go with the ship. The pinnace being repaired, +I sent her, with the master, to sound the entrance, while I kept turning +up, having the wind right out. At noon, the mouth of the bay bore N.N.W. +distant about a mile, and seeing a smoke on the shore, we directed our +glasses to the spot, and soon discovered ten people, who, upon our +nearer approach, left their fire, and retired to a little eminence, +whence they could conveniently observe our motions. Soon after two +canoes, each having two men on board, came to the shore just under the +eminence, and the men joined the rest on the top of it. The pinnace, +which had been sent ahead to sound, now approached the place, upon which +all the Indians retired farther up the hill, except one, who hid himself +among some rocks near the landing-place. As the pinnace proceeded along +the shore, most of the people took the same route, and kept abreast of +her at a distance; when she came back, the master told us, that in a +cove a little within the harbour, some of them had come down to the +beach, and invited him to land by many signs and words of which he knew +not the meaning; but that all of them were armed with long pikes, and a +wooden weapon shaped somewhat like a cymitar. The Indians who had not +followed the boat, seeing the ship approach, used many threatening +gestures; and brandished their weapons; particularly two, who made a +very singular appearance, for their faces seemed to have been dusted +with a white powder, and their bodies painted with broad streaks of the +same colour, which, passing obliquely over their breasts and backs, +looked not unlike the cross-belts worn by our soldiers; the same kind of +streaks were also drawn round their legs and thighs like broad garters: +Each of these men held in his hand the weapon that had been described to +us as like a cymitar, which appeared to be about two feet and a half +long, and they seemed to talk to each other with great earnestness. + +<p>We continued to stand into the bay, and early in the afternoon anchored +under the south shore, about two miles within the entrance, in six +fathom water, the south point bearing S.E. and the north point east. As +we came in we saw, on both points of the bay, a few huts, and several of +the natives, men, women, and children. Under the south head we saw four +small canoes, with each one man on board, who were very busily employed +in striking fish with a long pike or spear: They ventured almost into +the surf, and were so intent upon what they were doing, that although +the ship passed within a quarter of a mile of them, they scarcely turned +their eyes toward her; possibly being deafened by the surf, and their +attention wholly fixed upon their business or sport, they neither saw +nor heard her go past them. + +<p>The place where the ship had anchored was abreast of a small village, +consisting of about six or eight houses; and while we were preparing to +hoist out the boat, we saw an old woman, followed by three children, +come out of the wood; she was loaded with fire-wood, and each of the +children had also its little burden: When she came to the houses, three +more children, younger than the others, came out to meet her: She often +looked at the ship, but expressed neither fear nor surprise: In a short +time she kindled a fire, and the four canoes came in from fishing. The +men landed, and having hauled up their boats, began to dress their +dinner, to all appearance wholly unconcerned about us, though we were +within half a mile of them. We thought it remarkable that of all the +people we had yet seen, not one had the least appearance of clothing, +the old woman herself being destitute even of a fig-leaf. + +<p>After dinner the boats were manned, and we set out from the ship, having +Tupia of our party. We intended to land where we saw the people, and +began to hope that as they had so little regarded the ship's coming into +the bay, they would as little regard our coming on shore: In this, +however, we were disappointed; for as soon as we approached the rocks, +two of the men came down upon them to dispute our landing, and the rest +ran away. Each of the two champions was armed with a lance about ten +feet long, and a short stick, which he seemed to handle as if it was a +machine to assist him in managing or throwing the lance: They called to +us in a very loud tone, and in a harsh dissonant language, of which +neither we nor Tupia understood a single word: They brandished their +weapons, and seemed resolved to defend their coast to the uttermost, +though they were but two, and we were forty. I could not but admire +their courage, and being very unwilling that hostilities should commence +with such inequality of force between us, I ordered the boat to lie upon +her oars: We then parlied by signs for about a quarter of an hour, and +to bespeak their good-will, I threw them nails, beads, and other +trifles, which they took up and seemed to be well pleased with. I then +made signs that I wanted water, and, by all the means that I could +devise, endeavoured to convince them that we would do them no harm: They +now waved to us, and I was willing to interpret it as an invitation; but +upon our putting the boat in, they came again to oppose us. One appeared +to be a youth about nineteen or twenty, and the other a man of middle +age: As I had now no other resource, I fired a musquet between them. +Upon the report, the youngest dropped a bundle of lances upon the rock, +but recollecting himself in an instant he snatched them up again with +great haste: A stone was then thrown at us, upon which I ordered a +musquet to be fired with small shot, which struck the eldest upon the +legs, and he immediately ran to one of the houses, which was distant +about an hundred yards: I now hoped that our contest was over, and we +immediately landed; but we had scarcely left the boat when he returned, +and we then perceived that he had left the rock only to fetch a shield +or target for his defence. As soon as he came up, he threw a lance at +us, and his comrade another; they fell where we stood thickest, but +happily hurt nobody. A third musquet with small shot was then fired at +them, upon which one of them threw another lance, and both immediately +ran away: If we had pursued, we might probably have taken one of them; +but Mr Banks suggesting that the lances might be poisoned, I thought it +not prudent to venture into the woods. We repaired immediately to the +huts, in one of which we found the children, who had hidden themselves +behind a shield and some bark; we peeped at them, but left them in their +retreat, without their knowing that they had been discovered, and we +threw into the house when we went away some beads, ribbons, pieces of +cloth, and other presents, which we hoped would procure us the good-will +of the inhabitants when they should return; but the lances which we +found lying about, we took away with us, to the number of about +fifty:[70] They were from six to fifteen feet long, and all of them had +four prongs in the manner of a fish-gig, each of which was pointed with +fish-bone, and very sharp: We observed that they were smeared with a +viscous substance of a green colour, which favoured the opinion of their +being poisoned, though we afterwards discovered that it was a mistake: +They appeared, by the sea-weed that we found sticking to them, to have +been used in striking fish. Upon examining the canoes that lay upon the +beach, we found them to be the worst we had ever seen: They were between +twelve and fourteen feet long, and made of the bark of a tree in one +piece, which was drawn together and tied up at each end, the middle +being kept open by sticks which were placed across them from gunwale to +gunwale as thwarts. We then searched for fresh water, but found none, +except in a small hole which had been dug in the sand. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 70: This action is not altogether to be commended--perhaps +indeed, it is scarcely justifiable, but on the same principle that would +warrant these or other savages making off with the muskets or any thing +else belonging to the ship's company. These lances were most valuable +property to their original possessors; and it is doubtful if the plea +which might be set up for the abstraction of them, viz. that they would +be used against our people, can be sustained, seeing the savages had +fled; and more especially as, supposing, them to have so purposed, they +could with readiness be checked by a display of superior means of +annoyance. Is it conceivable, that the unworthy desire to possess these +lances as curiosities, could actuate the persons concerned to such a +piece of pilfering? We have repeatedly seen that our people had not been +scrupulous in allegiance to the commandment--thou shalt not covet, +&c.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Having re-embarked in our boat, we deposited our lances on board the +ship, and then went over to the north point of the bay, where we had +seen several of the inhabitants when we were entering it, but which we +now found totally deserted. Here however we found fresh water, which +trickled down from the top of the rocks, and stood in pools among the +hollows at the bottom; but it was situated so as not to be procured for +our use without difficulty. + +<p>In the morning, therefore, I sent a party of men to that part of the +shore where we first landed, with orders to dig holes in the sand where +the water might gather; but going ashore myself with the gentlemen soon +afterwards, we found, upon a more diligent search, a small stream, more +than sufficient for our purpose. + +<p>Upon visiting the hut where we had seen the children, we were greatly +mortified to find that the beads and ribbons which we had left there the +night before, had not been moved from their places, and that not an +Indian was to be seen.[71] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 71: Beads and ribbons, and all other niceties in ornament, +could be of little or no value in the estimation of those, who with +difficulty could procure the necessaries of life. The love of such +trifles does not seem to be excited, till the physical wants are so far +supplied, as to leave the mind free to the discursive recreations of +fancy. Their excellence or superiority in attire becomes distinctive of +affluence and ease, and of course procures respect, which, by a +principle inherent in human nature, all persons seek to obtain.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Having sent some empty water-casks on shore, and left a party of men to +cut wood, I went myself in the pinnace to sound, and examine the bay; +during my excursion I saw several of the natives, but they all fled at +my approach. In one of the places where I landed, I found several small +fires, and fresh mussels broiling upon them; here also I found some of +the largest oyster-shells I had ever seen. + +<p>As soon as the wooders and waterers came on board to dinner, ten or +twelve of the natives came down to the place, and looked with great +attention and curiosity at the casks, but did not touch them: They took +away however the canoes which lay near the landing-place, and again +disappeared. In the afternoon, when our people were again ashore, +sixteen or eighteen Indians, all armed, came boldly within about an +hundred yards of them, and then stopped: Two of them advanced somewhat +nearer; and Mr Hicks, who commanded the party on shore, with another, +advanced to meet them, holding out presents to them as he approached, +and expressing kindness and amity by every sign he could think of, but +all without effect; for before he could get up with them they retired, +and it would have answered no purpose to pursue. In the evening, I went +with Mr Banks and Dr Solander to a sandy cove on the north side of the +bay, where, in three or four hauls with the seine, we took above three +hundred-weight of fish, which was equally divided among the ship's +company. + +<p>The next morning, before day-break, the Indians came down to the houses +that were abreast of the ship, and were heard frequently to shout very +loud. As soon as it was light, they were seen walking along the beach; +and soon after they retired to the woods, where, at the distance of +about a mile from the shore, they kindled several fires. + +<p>Our people went ashore as usual, and with them Mr Banks and Dr Solander; +who, in search of plants, repaired to the woods. Our men, who were +employed in cutting grass, being the farthest removed from the main body +of the people, a company of fourteen or fifteen Indians advanced towards +them, having sticks in their hands, which, according to the report of +the serjeant of the marines, shone like a musquet. The grass-cutters, +upon seeing them approach, drew together, and repaired to the main body. +The Indians, being encouraged by this appearance of a flight, pursued +them; they stopped however when they were within about a furlong of +them, and after shouting several times went back into the woods. In the +evening they came again in the same manner, stopped at the same +distance, shouted and retired. I followed them myself, alone and +unarmed, for a considerable way along the shore, but I could not prevail +upon them to stop. + +<p>This day Mr Green took the sun's meridian altitude a little within the +south entrance of the bay, which gave the latitude 34° S., the variation +of the needle was 11° 3' E. + +<p>Early the next morning, the body of Forby Sutherland, one of our seamen, +who died the evening before, was buried near the watering-place; and +from this incident I called the south point of this bay <i>Sutherland +Point</i>. This day we resolved to make an excursion into the country. Mr +Banks, Dr Solander, myself, and seven others, properly accoutred for the +expedition, set out, and repaired first to the huts, near the +watering-place, whither some of the natives continued every day to +resort; and though the little presents which we had left there before +had not yet been taken away, we left others of somewhat more value, +consisting of cloth, looking-glasses, combs, and beads, and then went up +into the country. We found the soil to be either swamp or light sand, +and the face of the country finely diversified by wood and lawn. The +trees are tall, straight, and without underwood, standing at such a +distance from each other, that the whole country, at least where the +swamps do not render it incapable of cultivation, might be cultivated +without cutting down one of them: Between the trees the ground is +covered with grass, of which there is great abundance, growing in tufts +about as big as can well be grasped in the hand, which stand very close +to each other. We saw many houses of the inhabitants, and places where +they had slept upon the grass without any shelter; but we saw only one +of the people, who the moment he discovered us ran away. At all these +places we left presents, hoping that at length they might produce +confidence and good-will. We had a transient and imperfect view of a +quadruped about as big as a rabbit: Mr Banks's grey-hound, which was +with us, got sight of it, and would probably have caught it, but the +moment he set off he lamed himself, against a stump which lay concealed +in the long grass. We afterwards saw the dung of an animal which fed +upon grass, and which we judged could not be less than a deer; and the +footsteps of another, which was clawed like a dog, and seemed to be +about as big as a wolf; we also tracked a small animal, whose foot +resembled that of a polecat or weasel. The trees over our head abounded +with birds of various kinds, among which were many of exquisite beauty, +particularly loriquets and cockatoos, which flew in flocks of several +scores together. We found some wood which had been felled by the natives +with a blunt instrument, and some that had been barked. The trees were +not of many species; among others there was a large one which yielded a +gum not unlike the <i>Sanguis draconis</i>; and in some of them steps that +had been cut at about three feet distance from each other, for the +convenience of climbing them. + +<p>From this excursion we returned between three and four o'clock, and +having dined on board, we went ashore again at the watering-place, where +a party of men were filling casks. Mr Gore, the second lieutenant, had +been sent out in the morning with a boat to dredge for oysters at the +head of the bay; when he had performed this service, he went ashore, and +having taken a midshipman with him, and sent the boat away, set out to +join the waterers by land. In his way he fell in with a body of +two-and-twenty Indians, who followed him, and were often not more than +twenty yards distant; when Mr Gore perceived them so near, he stopped, +and faced about, upon which they stopped also; and when he went on +again, continued their pursuit: They did not however attack him, though +they were all armed with lances, and he and the midshipman got in safety +to the watering-place. The Indians, who had slackened their pursuit when +they came in sight of the main body of our people, halted at about the +distance of a quarter of a mile, where they stood still. Mr Monkhouse +and two or three of the waterers took it into their head to march up to +them; but seeing the Indians keep their ground till they came pretty +near them, they were seized with a sudden fear very common to the rash +and fool-hardy, and made a hasty retreat: This step, which insured the +danger that it was taken to avoid, encouraged the Indians, and four of +them running forward discharged their lances at the fugitives, with such +force, that flying no less than forty yards, they went beyond them. As +the Indians did not pursue, our people, recovering their spirits, +stopped to collect the lances when they came up to the place where they +lay; upon which the Indians, in their turn, began to retire. Just at +this time I came up, with Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and Tupia; and being +desirous to convince the Indians that we were neither afraid of them, +nor intended them any mischief, we advanced towards them, making signs +of expostulation and entreaty, but they could not be persuaded to wait +till we could come up. Mr Gore told us, that he had seen some of them up +the bay, who had invited him by signs to come on shore, which he, +certainly with great prudence, declined. + +<p>The morning of the next day was so rainy, that we were all glad to stay +on board. In the afternoon, however, it cleared up, and we made another +excursion along the sea-coast to the southward: We went ashore, and Mr +Banks and Dr Solander gathered many plants; but besides these we saw +nothing worthy of notice. At our first entering the woods, we met with +three of the natives, who instantly ran away: More of them were seen by +some of the people, but they all disappeared, with great precipitation, +as soon as they found that they were discovered. By the boldness of +these people at our first landing, and the terror that seized them at +the sight of us afterwards, it appears that they were sufficiently +intimidated by our fire-arms: Not that we had any reason to think the +people much hurt by the small-shot which we were obliged to fire at +them, when they attacked us at our coming out of the boat; but they had +probably seen the effects of them, from their lurking-places, upon the +birds that we had shot. Tupia, who was now become a good marksman, +frequently strayed from us to shoot parrots; and he had told us, that +while he was thus employed, he had once met with nine Indians, who, as +soon as they perceived he saw them, ran from him, in great confusion and +terror. + +<p>The next day, twelve canoes, in each of which was a single Indian, came +towards the watering-place, and were within half a mile of it a +considerable time: They were employed in striking fish, upon which, like +others that we had seen before, they were so intent, that they seemed to +regard nothing else. It happened, however, that a party of our people +were out a-shooting near the place, and one of the men, whose curiosity +might at length perhaps be roused by the report of the fowling-pieces, +was observed by Mr Banks to haul up his canoe upon the beach, and go +towards the shooting party: In something more than a quarter of an hour +he returned, launched his canoe, and went off in her to his companions. +This incident makes it probable that the natives acquired a knowledge of +the destructive power of our fire-arms, when we knew nothing of the +matter; for this man was not seen by any of the party whose operations +he had reconnoitred. + +<p>While Mr Banks was gathering plants near the watering-place, I went with +Dr Solander and Mr Monkhouse to the head of the bay, that I might +examine that part of the country, and make farther attempts to form some +connection with the natives. In our way we met with eleven or twelve +small canoes, with each a man in it, probably the same that were +afterwards abreast of the shore, who all made into shoal water upon our +approach. We met other Indians on shore the first time we landed, who +instantly took to their canoes, and paddled away. We went up the country +to some distance, and found the face of it nearly the same with that +which has been described already, but the soil was much richer; for +instead of sand, I found a deep black mould, which I thought very fit +for the production of grain of any kind. In the woods we found a tree +which bore fruit that in colour and shape resembled a cherry; the juice +had an agreeable tartness, though but little flavour. We found also +interspersed some of the finest meadows in the world: Some places, +however, were rocky, but these were comparatively few: The stone is +sandy, and might be used with advantage for building. When we returned +to the boat, we saw some smoke upon another part of the coast, and went +thither in hopes of meeting with the people, but at our approach, these +also ran away. We found six small canoes, and six fires very near the +beach, with some mussels roasting upon them, and a few oysters lying +near: By this we judged that there had been one man in each canoe, who, +having picked up some shell-fish, had come ashore to eat it, and made +his separate fire for that purpose: We tasted of their cheer, and left +them in return some strings of beads, and other things which we thought +would please them. At the foot of a tree in this place we found a small +well of fresh water, supplied by a spring; and the day being now far +spent, we returned to the ship. In the evening, Mr Banks made a little +excursion with his gun, and found such a number of quails, resembling +those in England, that he might have shot as many as he pleased; but his +object was variety and not number. + +<p>The next morning, as the wind would not permit me to sail, I sent out +several parties into the country to try again whether some intercourse +could not be established with the natives. A midshipman who belonged to +one of these parties having straggled a long way from his companions, +met with a very old man and woman, and some little children; they were +sitting under a tree by the water-side, and neither party saw the other +till they were close together: The Indians showed signs of fear, but did +not attempt to run away. The man happened to have nothing to give them +but a parrot that he had shot; this he offered, but they refused to +accept it, withdrawing themselves from his hand, either through fear or +aversion. His stay with them was but short, for he saw several canoes +near the beach fishing, and being alone, he feared they might come +ashore and attack him: He said, that these people were very +dark-coloured, but not black; that the man and woman appeared to be very +old, being both grey-headed; that the hair of the man's head was bushy, +and his beard long and rough; that the woman's hair was cropped short, +and both of them were stark naked. Mr Monkhouse the surgeon, and one of +the men, who were with another party near the watering-place, also +strayed from their companions, and as they were coming out of a thicket, +observed six Indians standing together, at the distance of about fifty +yards. One of them pronounced a word very loud, which was supposed to be +a signal, for a lance was immediately thrown at him out of the wood, +which very narrowly missed him. When the Indians saw that the weapon had +not taken effect, they ran away with the greatest precipitation; but on +turning about towards the place whence the lance had been thrown, he saw +a young Indian, whom he judged to be about nineteen or twenty years old, +come down from a tree, and he also ran away with such speed as made it +hopeless to follow him. Mr Monkhouse was of opinion that he had been +watched by these Indians in his passage through the thicket, and that +the youth had been stationed in the tree, to discharge the lance at him, +upon a signal as he should come by; but however this be, there could be +no doubt that he was the person who threw the lance. + +<p>In the afternoon I went myself with a party over to the north shore, and +while some of our people were hauling the seine, we made an excursion a +few miles into the country, proceeding afterwards in the direction of +the coast. We found this place without wood, and somewhat resembling our +moors in England; the surface of the ground, however, was covered with a +thin brush of plants, about as high as the knees: The hills near the +coast are low, but others rise behind them, increasing by a gradual +ascent to a considerable distance, with marshes and morasses between. +When we returned to the boat, we found that our people had caught with +the seine a great number of small fish, which are well known in the +West-Indies, and which our sailors call leather-jackets, because their +skin is remarkably thick. I had sent the second lieutenant out in the +yawl a-striking, and when we got back to the ship, we found that he also +had been very successful. He had observed that the large sting-rays, of +which there is great plenty in the bay, followed the flowing tide into +very shallow water; he therefore took the opportunity of flood, and +struck several in not more than two or three feet water: One of them +weighed no less than two hundred and forty pounds after his entrails +were taken out. + +<p>The next morning, as the wind still continued northerly, I sent out the +yawl again, and the people struck one still larger, for when his +entrails were taken out he weighed three hundred and thirty-six pounds. + +<p>The great quantity of plants which Mr Banks and Dr Solander collected in +this place induced me to give it the name of <i>Botany Bay</i>.[72] It is +situated in the latitude of 34° S., longitude 208° 37' W. It is +capacious, safe, and convenient, and maybe known by the land on the +sea-coast, which is nearly level, and of a moderate height; in general +higher than it is farther inland, with steep rocky cliffs next the sea, +which have the appearance of a long island lying close under the shore. +The harbour lies about the middle of this land, and in approaching it +from the southward, is discovered before the ship comes abreast of it; +but from, the northward it is not discovered so soon: The entrance is a +little more than a quarter of a mile broad, and lies in W.N.W. To sail +into it the southern shore should be kept on board, till the ship is +within a small bare island, which lies close under the north shore; +within this island the deepest water on that side is seven fathom, +shallowing to five a good way up. At a considerable distance from the +south shore there is a shoal, reaching from the innersouth point quite +to the head of the harbour; But over towards the north and north-west +shore there is a channel of twelve or fourteen feet at low water, for +three or four leagues, up to a place where there is three or four +fathom, but here I found very little fresh water. We anchored near the +south shore, about a mile within the entrance, for the convenience of +sailing with a southerly wind, and because I thought it the best +situation for watering; but I afterwards found a very fine stream on the +north shore, in the first sandy cove within the island, before which a +ship might lie almost land-locked, and procure wood as well as water in +great abundance. Wood indeed is every where plenty, but I saw only two +kinds which may be considered as timber. These trees are as large, or +larger than the English oak, and one of them has not a very different +appearance: This is the same that yields the reddish gum like <i>sanguis +draconis</i>, and the wood is heavy, hard, and dark-coloured, like <i>lignum +vitae</i>; the other grows tall and straight, something like the pine; and +the wood of this, which has some resemblance to the live oak of America, +is also hard and heavy. There are a few shrubs, and several kinds of the +palm; mangroves also grow in great plenty near the head of the bay. The +country in general is level, low, and woody, as far as we could see. The +woods, as I have before observed, abound with birds of exquisite beauty, +particularly of the parrot kind; we found also crows here, exactly the +same with those in England. About the head of the harbour, where there +are large flats of sand and mud, there is great plenty of water-fowl, +most of which were altogether unknown to us: One of the most remarkable +was black and white, much larger than a swan, and in shape somewhat +resembling a pelican. On these banks of sand and mud there are great +quantities of oysters, mussels, cockles, and other shell-fish, which +seem to be the principal subsistence of the inhabitants, who go into +shoal water with their little canoes, and pick them out with their +hands. We did not observe that they eat any of them raw, nor do they +always go on shore to dress them, for they have frequently fires in +their canoes for that purpose. They do not however subsist wholly upon +this food, for they catch a variety of other fish, some of which they +strike with gigs, and some they take with hook and line. All the +inhabitants that we saw were stark naked: They did not appear to be +numerous, nor to live in societies, but like other animals were +scattered about along the coast, and in the woods. Of their manner of +life, however, we could know but little, as we were never able to form +the least connection with them: After the first contest at our landing, +they would never come near enough to parley; nor did they touch a single +article of all that we had left at their huts, and the places they +frequented, on purpose for them to take away. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 72: The reader will be plentifully supplied with information +respecting this noted place, and the settlement of British convicts made +at Port Jackson, in another part of this work. It would be very +injudicious to break down the matter intended to be given there, for +the purpose of ekeing out the limited remarks here made. This intimation +may be equally applied to the whole subject of New Holland: about which +the reader may promise himself very ample satisfaction in the course of +this collection. Let this then be accepted as a pledge in apology for +the paucity of observations on the text.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>During my stay in this harbour, I caused the English colours to be +displayed on shore every day, and the ship's name, and the date of the +year, to be inscribed upon one of the trees near the watering-place. + +<p>It is high water here at the full and change of the moon about eight +o'clock, and the tide rises and falls perpendicularly between four and +five feet. + +<p>SECTION XXIX. + +<p><i>The Range from Botany Bay to Trinity Bay; with a farther Account of the +Country, its Inhabitants; and Productions</i>. + +<p>At day-break, on Sunday the 6th of May 1770, we set sail from Botany +Bay, with a light breeze at N.W. which soon after coming to the +southward, we steered along the shore N.N.E.; and at noon, our latitude, +by observation, was 33° 50' S. At this time we were between two and +three miles distant from the land, and a-breast of a bay, or harbour, in +which there appeared to be good anchorage, and which I called <i>Port +Jackson</i>. This harbour lies three leagues to the northward of Botany +Bay: The variation, by several azimuths, appeared to be 8° E. At +sun-set, the northermost land in sight bore N. 26 E. and some broken +land, that seemed to form a bay, bore N. 40 W. distant four leagues. +This bay, which lies in latitude 33° 42' I called <i>Broken Bay</i>. We +steered along the shore N.N.E. all night, at the distance of about three +leagues from the land, having from thirty-two to thirty-six fathom +water, with a hard sandy bottom. + +<p>Soon after sun-rise on the 7th, I took several azimuths, with four +needles belonging to the azimuth compass, the mean result of which gave +the variation 7° 56' E. At noon, our latitude, by observation, was 33° +22' S.: We were about three leagues from the shore; the northermost land +in sight bore N. 19 E. and some lands which projected in three bluff +points, and which, for that reason; I called <i>Cape Three Points</i>, bore +S.W. distant five leagues. Our longitude from Botany Bay was 19' E. In +the afternoon, we saw smoke in several places upon the shore, and in the +evening, found the variation to be 8° 25' E. At this time we were +between two and three miles from the shore, in twenty-eight fathom; and +at noon the next day, we had not advanced one step to the northward. We +stood off shore, with the winds northerly, till twelve at night, and at +the distance of about five leagues, had seventy fathom; at the distance +of six leagues we had eighty fathom, which is the extent of the +soundings; for at the distance of ten leagues, we had no ground with 150 +fathom. + +<p>The wind continuing northerly, till the morning of the 10th, we +continued to stand in and off the shore, with very little change of +situation in other respects; but a gale then springing up at S.W. we +made the best of our way along the shore to the northward. At sun-rise, +our latitude was 33° 2' S. and the variation 8° E. At nine in the +forenoon, we passed a remarkable hill, which stood a little way inland, +and somewhat resembled the crown of a hat: And at noon, our latitude, by +observation, was 32° 53' S., and our longitude 208° W. We were about two +leagues distant from the land, which extended from N. 41 E. to S. 41 W., +and a small round rock, or island, which lay close under the land, bore +S. 82 W. distant between three and four leagues. At four in the +afternoon, we passed, at the distance of about a mile, a low rocky +point, which I called <i>Point Stephens</i>, on the north side of which is an +inlet, which I called <i>Port Stephens</i>: This inlet appeared to me, from +the mast-head, to be sheltered from all winds. It lies in latitude 32° +40', longitude 207° 51', and at the entrance are three small islands, +two of which are high; and on the main near the shore are some high +round hills, which at a distance appear like islands. In passing this +bay, at the distance of two or three miles from the shore, our soundings +were from thirty-three to twenty-seven fathom, from which I conjectured +that there must be a sufficient depth of water within it. At a little +distance within land, we saw smoke in several places; and at half an +hour past five, the northermost land in sight bore N. 36 E. and Point +Stephens S.W. distant four leagues. Our soundings in the night, were +from forty-eight to sixty-two fathom, at the distance of between three +and four leagues from the shore, which made in two hillocks. This Point +I called <i>Cape Hawke</i>: It lies in the latitude of 32° 14' S., longitude +207° 30' W.; and at four o'clock in the morning bore W. distant about +eight miles; at the same time the northermost land in sight bore N. 6 E. +and appeared like an island. At noon, this land bore N. 8 E. the +northermost land in sight N. 13 E. and Cape Hawke S. 37 W. Our latitude, +by observation, was 32° 2' S. which was twelve miles to the southward of +that given by the log; so that probably we had a current setting that +way: By the morning amplitude and azimuth, the variation was 9° 10' E. +During our run along the shore, in the afternoon, we saw smoke in +several places, at a little distance from the beach, and one upon the +top of a hill, which was the first we had seen upon elevated ground +since our arrival upon the coast. At sun-set, we had twenty-three +fathom, at the distance of a league and a half from the shore: The +northermost land then bore N. 13 E. and three hills, remarkably large +and high, lying contiguous to each other, and not far from the beach, +N.N.W. As these hills bore some resemblance to each other, we called +them <i>The Three Brothers</i>. They lie in latitude 31° 40' and maybe seen +fourteen or sixteen leagues. We steered N.E. by N. all night, having +from twenty-seven to sixty-seven fathom, at the distance of between two +and six leagues from the shore. + +<p>At day-break, we steered north, for the northermost land in sight. At +noon, we were four leagues from the shore, and by observation, in +latitude 31° 18' S., which was fifteen miles to the southward of that +given by the log; our longitude 206° 58' W. In the afternoon, we stood +in for the land, where we saw smoke in several places, till six in the +evening, when, being within three or four miles of it, and in +twenty-four fathom of water, we stood off with a fresh breeze at N. and +N.N.W. till midnight, when we had 118 fathom, at the distance of eight +leagues from the land, and then tacked. At three in the morning, the +wind veered to the westward, when we tacked and stood to the northward. +At noon, our latitude, by observation, was 30° 43' S., and our longitude +206° 45' W. At this time we were between three and four leagues from +the shore, the northermost part of which bore from us N. 13 W. and a +point, or head-land, on which we saw fires that produced a great +quantity of smoke, bore W. distant four leagues. To this Point I gave +the name of <i>Smokey Cape</i>: It is of a considerable height, and over the +pitch of the point is a round hillock; within it are two others, much +higher and larger, and within them the land is very low. Our latitude +was 30° 31' S., longitude 206° 54' W.: This day the observed latitude +was only five miles south of the log. We saw smoke in several parts +along the coast, besides that seen upon Smokey Cape. + +<p>In the afternoon, the wind being at N.E. we stood off and on, and at +three or four miles distance from the shore had thirty fathom water: The +wind afterwards coming cross of land, we stood to the northward, having +from thirty to twenty-one fathom, at the distance of four or five miles +from the shore. + +<p>At five in the morning, the wind veered to the north, and blew fresh, +attended with squalls: At eight, it began to thunder and rain, and in +about an hour it fell calm, which gave us an opportunity to sound, and +we had eighty-six fathom at between four and five leagues from the +shore: Soon after this we had a gale from the southward, with which we +steered N. by W. for the northermost land in sight. At noon, we were +about four leagues from the shore, and by observation, in latitude 30° +22', which was nine miles to the southward of our reckoning, longitude +206° 39' W. Some lands near the shore, of a considerable height, bore W. + +<p>As we advanced to the northward from Botany Bay, the land gradually +increased in height, so that in this latitude it may be called a hilly +country. Between this latitude and the Bay, it exhibits a pleasing +variety of ridges, hills, vallies, and plains, all clothed with wood, of +the same appearance with that which has been particularly described: The +land near the shore is in general low and sandy, except the points, +which are rocky, and over many of them are high bills, which, at their +first rising out of the water, have the appearance of islands.[73] In +the afternoon, we had some small rocky islands between us and the land, +the southermost of which lies in latitude 30° 10', and the northermost +in 29° 58', and somewhat more than two leagues from the land: About two +miles without the northermost island we had thirty-three fathom water. +Having the advantage of a moon, we steered along the shore all night, in +the direction of N. and N. by E. keeping at the distance of about three +leagues from the land, and having from twenty to twenty-five fathom +water. As soon as it was light, having a fresh gale, we made all the +sail we could, and at nine o'clock in the morning, being about a league +from the shore, we discovered smoke in many places, and having recourse +to our glasses, we saw about twenty of the natives, who had each a large +bundle upon his back, which we conjectured to be palm-leaves for +covering their houses: We continued to observe them above an hour, +during which they walked upon the beach, and up a path that led over a +hill of a gentle ascent, behind which we lost sight of them: Not one of +them was observed to stop and look towards us, but they trudged along, +to all appearance, without the least emotion either of curiosity or +surprise, though it is impossible they should not have seen the ship by +a casual glance as they walked along the shore; and though she must, +with respect to every other object they had yet seen, have been little +less stupendous and unaccountable than a floating mountain with all its +woods would have been to us. At noon, our latitude, by observation, was +28° 39' S., and longitude 206° 27' W. A high point of land, which I +named <i>Cape Byron</i>, bore N.W. by W. at the distance of three miles. It +lies in latitude 28° 37' 30" S., longitude 206° 30' W., and may be known +by a remarkable sharp peaked mountain, which lies inland, and bears from +it N.W. by W. From this point, the land trends N. 13 W.: Inland it is +high and hilly, but low near the shore; to the southward of the point it +is also low and level. We continued to steer along the shore with a +fresh gale, till sun-set, when we suddenly discovered breakers a-head, +directly in the ship's course and also on our larboard bow. At this time +we were about five miles from the land, and had twenty fathom water: We +hauled up east till eight, when we had run eight miles, and increased +our depth of water to forty-four fathom: We then brought-to, with the +ship's head to the eastward, and lay upon this tack till ten, when, +having increased our sounding to seventy-eight fathom, we wore, and lay +with the ship's head to the land till five in the morning, when we made +sail, and at day-light, were greatly surprised to find ourselves farther +to the southward, than we had been the evening before, though the wind +had been southerly, and blown fresh all night: We now saw the breakers +again within us, and passed them at the distance of one league. They +lie in latitude 28° 8' S. stretching off east two leagues from a point +of land, under which is a small island. Their situation may always be +known by the peaked mountain which has been just mentioned, and which +bears from them S.W. by W. for this reason I have named it <i>Mount +Warning</i>. It lies seven or eight leagues inland, in latitude 28° 22' S. +The land about it is high and hilly, but it is of itself sufficiently +conspicuous to be at once distinguished from every other object. The +Point off which these shoals lie, I have named <i>Point Danger</i>. To the +northward of this Point the land is low, and trends N.W. by N.; but it +soon turns again more to the northward. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 73: The appearance and adjustment of the hills in New Holland +have attracted very considerable regard. They are thought to bear a +strong resemblance in disposition to the Andes in South America. Some +interesting information on this topic will be given when we treat of +another voyage. This hint may suffice for the present.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At noon, we were about two leagues from the land, and by observation, in +latitude 27° 46' S., which was seventeen miles to the southward of the +log; our longitude was 206° 26' W. Mount Warning bore S. 26 W. distant +fourteen leagues, and the northermost land in sight bore N. We pursued +our course along the shore, at the distance of about two leagues, in the +direction of N. 1/4 E. till between four and five in the afternoon, when +we discovered breakers in our larboard bow. Our depth of water was +thirty-seven fathom, and at sun-set, the northermost land bore N. by W. +the breakers N.W. by W. distant four miles, and the northermost land set +at noon, which formed a point, and to which I gave the name of <i>Point +Look-out</i>, W. distant five or six miles, in the latitude of 27° 6'. On +the north side of this Point, the shore forms a wide open bay, which I +called <i>Moreton's Bay</i>, in the bottom of which the land is so low that I +could but just see it from the top-mast head. The breakers lie between +three or four miles from Point Look-out; and at this time we had a great +sea from the southward, which broke upon them very high. We stood on +N.N.E. till eight o'clock, when having passed the breakers, and deepened +our water to fifty-two fathom, we brought-to till midnight, when we made +sail again to the N.N.E. At four in the morning, we had 135 fathom, and +when the day broke, I perceived that during the night I had got much +farther northward, and from the shore, than I expected from the course +we steered, for we were distant at least seven leagues; I therefore +hauled in N.W. by W. with a fresh gale at S.S.W. The land that was +farthest to the north the night before, now bore S.S.W. distant six +leagues, and I gave it the name of <i>Cape Moreton</i>, it being the north +point of Moreton's Bay: Its latitude is 26° 56', and its longitude is +206° 28'. From Cape Moreton the land trends away west, farther than can +be seen, for there is a small space, where at this time no land is +visible, and some on board having also observed that the sea looked +paler than usual, were of opinion that the bottom of Moreton's Bay +opened into a river. We had here thirty-four fathom water, and a fine +sandy bottom: This alone would have produced the change that had been +observed in the colour of the water; and it was by no means necessary to +suppose a river to account for the land at the bottom of the Bay not +being visible, for supposing the land there to be as low as we knew it +to be in a hundred other parts of the coast, it would have been +impossible to see it from the station of the ship; however, if any +future navigator should be disposed to determine the question, whether +there is or is not a river in this place, which the wind would not +permit us to do, the situation may always be found by three hills which +lie to the northward of it, in the latitude of 26° 53'. These hills lie +but a very little way inland, and not far from each other: They are +remarkable for the singular form of their elevation, which very much +resembles a glasshouse, and for which reason I called them the <i>Glass +Houses</i>: The northermost of the three is the highest and largest: There +are also several other peaked hills inland to the northward of these, +but they are not nearly so remarkable.[74] At noon, our latitude was, by +observation, 26° 28' S. which was ten miles to the northward of the log, +a circumstance which had never before happened upon this coast; our +longitude was 206° 46'. At this time we were between two and three +leagues from the land, and had twenty-four fathom water. A low bluff +point, which was the south head of a sandy bay, bore N. 62 W., distant +three leagues, and the northermost point of land in sight bore N. 1/4 E. +This day we saw smoke in several places, and some at a considerable +distance inland. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 74: The depth of the Bay from Cape Moreton is said to be 34 +miles--it then contracts into a small stream; and there is a +considerable river near Glass-House Peaks, as they have been +called.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In steering along the shore at the distance of two leagues, our +soundings were from twenty-four to thirty-two fathom, with a sandy +bottom. At six in the evening, the northermost point of land bore N. 1/4 +W., distant four leagues; at ten it bore N.W. by W. 1/2 W. and as we had +seen no land to the northward of it, we brought-to, not well knowing +which way to steer. + +<p>At two in the morning, however, we made sail with the wind at S.W., and +at day-light, we saw the land extending as far as N. 1/4 E. the point we +had set the night before bore S.W. by W., distant between three and four +leagues. It lies in latitude 25° 58', longitude 206° 48' W.: The land +within it is of a moderate and equal height, but the point itself is so +unequal, that it looks like two small islands lying under the land, for +which reason I gave it the name of <i>Double Island Point</i>; it may also be +known by the white cliffs on the north side of it. Here the land trends +to the N.W. and forms a large open bay, the bottom of which is so low a +flat that from the deck it could scarcely be seen. In crossing this bay, +our depth of water was from thirty to twenty-two fathom, with a white +sandy bottom. At noon, we were about three leagues from the shore, in +latitude 25° 84' S., longitude 206° 45' W.: Double Island Point bore S. +1/4 W. and the northermost land in sight N. 1/4 E. This part of the +coast, which is of a moderate height, is more barren than any we had +seen, and the soil more sandy. With our glasses we could discover that +the sands, which lay in great patches of many acres, were moveable, and +that some of them had not been long in the place they possessed; for we +saw in several parts, trees half buried, the tops of which were still +green; and in others, the naked trunks of such as the sand had +surrounded long enough to destroy. In other places the woods appeared to +be low and shrubby, and we saw no signs of inhabitants. Two water-snakes +swam by the ship: They were beautifully spotted, and in every respect +like land-snakes, except that their tails were broad and flat, probably +to serve them instead of fins in swimming. In the morning of this day, +the variation was 8° 20' E., and in the evening, 8° 36. During the +night, we continued our course to the northward, with a light breeze +from the land, being distant from it between two and three leagues, and +having from twenty-three to twenty-seven fathom, with a fine sandy +bottom. + +<p>At noon on the 19th, we were about four miles from the land, with only +thirteen fathom. Our latitude was 26° 4', and the northermost land in +sight bore N. 21 W., distant eight miles. At one o'clock, being still +four miles distant from the shore, but having seventeen fathom water, we +passed a black bluff head, or point of land, upon which a great number +of the natives were assembled, and which therefore I called <i>Indian +Head</i>: it lies in latitude 25° 3'. About four miles N. by W. of this +head, is another very like it, from whence the land trends away somewhat +more to the westward: Next to the sea it is low and sandy, and behind it +nothing was to be seen, even from the mast-head. Near Indian Head we saw +more of the natives, and upon the neighbouring shore fires by night, and +smoke by day. We kept to the northward all night, at the distance of +from four miles to four leagues from the shore, and with a depth of +water from seventeen to thirty-four fathom. At daybreak, the northermost +land bore from us W.S.W. and seemed to end in a point, from which we +discovered a reef running out to the northward as far as we could see. +We had hauled our wind to the westward before it was light, and +continued the course till we saw the breakers upon our lee-bow. We now +edged away N.W. and N.N.W. along the east side of the shoal, from two to +one mile distant, having regular soundings from thirteen to seven +fathom, with a fine sandy bottom. At noon, our latitude, by observation, +was 20°26', which was thirteen miles to the northward of the log: We +judged the extreme point of the shoal to bear from us about N.W. and the +point from which it seemed to run out bore S. 3/4 W., distant twenty +miles. This point I named <i>Sandy Cape</i>, from two very large patches of +white sand which lay upon it. It is sufficiently high to be seen at the +distance of twelve leagues, in clear weather, and lies in latitude +24°45', longitude 206° 51': The land trends from it S.W. as far as can +be seen. We kept along the east side of the shoal till two in the +afternoon, when, judging that there was a sufficient depth of water upon +it to allow passage for the ship, I sent the boat a-head to sound, and +upon her making the signal for more than five fathom, we hauled our +wind, and stood over the tail of it in six fathom. At this time we were +in latitude 24°22', and Sandy Cape bore S. 1/2 E., distant eight +leagues; but the direction of the shoal is nearest N.N.W. and S.S.E. It +is remarkable that when on board the ship we had six fathom, the boat, +which was scarcely a quarter of a mile to the southward, had little more +than five, and that immediately after six fathom we had thirteen, and +then twenty, as fast as the man could cast the lead: From these +circumstances, I conjectured that the west side of the shoal was steep. +This shoal I called the <i>Break Sea Spit</i>, because we had now smooth +water, and to the southward of it we had always a high sea from the S.E. +At six in the evening, the land of Sandy Cape extended from S. 17 E. to +S. 27 E., at the distance of eight leagues; our depth of water was +twenty-three fathom: With the same soundings we stood to the westward +all night. At seven in the morning, we saw, from the mast-head, the land +of Sandy Cape bearing S.E. 1/2 E., distant about thirteen leagues: At +nine, we discovered land to the westward, and soon after saw smoke in +several places. Our depth of water was now decreased to seventeen +fathom, and by noon we had no more than thirteen, though we were seven +leagues from the land, which extended from S. by W. to W.N.W. Our +latitude at this time was 24° 28' S. For a few days past we had seen +several of the sea-birds called boobies, not having met with any of them +before; last night a small flock of them passed the ship, and went away +to the N.W.; and in the morning, from about half an hour before +sun-rise, to half an hour after, flights of them were continually coming +from the N.N.W. and flying to the S.S.E. nor was one of them seen to fly +in any other direction; we therefore conjectured that there was a +lagoon, river, or inlet of shallow water, in the bottom of the deep bay, +to the southward of us, whither these birds resorted to feed in the day, +and that not far to the northward there were some islands to which they +repaired in the night. To this bay I gave the name of <i>Hervey's Bay</i>, in +honour of Captain Hervey. In the afternoon we stood in for the land, +steering S.W. with a gentle breeze at S.E. till four o'clock, when, +being in latitude 24° 36', about two leagues from the shore, and having +nine fathom water, we bore away along the coast N.W. by W. and at the +same time could see land extending to the S.S.E. about eight leagues. +Near the sea the land is very low, but within there are some lofty +hills, all thickly clothed with, wood. While we were running along the +shore, we shallowed our water from nine to seven fathom, and at one time +we had but six, which determined us to anchor for the night. + +<p>At six in the morning we weighed, with a gentle breeze from the +southward, and steered N.W. 1/4 W. edging in for the land till we got +within two miles of it, with water from seven to eleven fathom; we then +steered N.N.W. as the land lay, and at noon, our latitude was 24° 19'. +We continued in the same course, at the same distance, with from twelve +fathom to seven, till five in the evening, when we were abreast of the +south point of a large open bay, in which I intended to anchor. During +this course, we discovered with our glasses that the land was covered +with palm-nut trees, which we had not seen from the time of our leaving +the islands within the tropic; we also saw two men walking along the +shore, who did not condescend to take the least notice of us. In the +evening, having hauled close upon a wind, and made two or three trips, +we anchored about eight o'clock in five fathom, with a fine sandy +bottom. The south point of the bay bore E. 3/4 S. distant two miles, the +north point N.W. 1/4 N. and about the same distance from the shore. + +<p>Early the next morning I went ashore, with a party of men, in order to +examine the country, accompanied by Mr Banks, Dr Solander, the other +gentlemen, and Tupia: The wind blew fresh, and we found it so cold, that +being at some distance from the shore, we took our cloaks as a necessary +equipment for the voyage. We landed a little within the south point of +the bay, where we found a channel leading into a large lagoon: This +channel I proceeded to examine, and found three fathom water till I got +about a mile up it, where I met with a shoal, upon which there was +little more than one fathom; but having passed over it, I had three +fathom again. The entrance of this channel lies close to the south point +of the bay, being formed by the shore on the east, and on the west by a +large spit of sand: It is about a quarter of a mile broad, and lies in +S. by W. In this place there is room for a few ships to lie in great +security, and a small stream of fresh water; I would have rowed into the +lagoon, but was prevented by shallows. We found several bogs, and swamps +of salt water, upon which, and by the sides of the lagoon, grows the +true mangrove, such as is found in the West Indies, and the first of the +kind that we had met with. In the branches of these mangroves there were +many nests of a remarkable kind of ant, that was as green as grass: When +the branches were disturbed they came out in great numbers, and punished +the offender by a much sharper bite than ever we had felt from the same +kind of animal before.[75] Upon these mangroves also we saw small green +caterpillars in great numbers: Their bodies were thick set with hairs, +and they were ranged upon the leaves side by side like a file of +soldiers, to the number of twenty or thirty together: When we touched +them, we found that the hair of their bodies had the quality of a +nettle, and gave us a much more acute, though less durable pain. The +country here is manifestly worse than about Botany Bay: The soil is dry +and sandy, but the sides of the hills are covered with trees, which grow +separately, without underwood. We found here the tree that yields a gum +like the <i>sanguis draconis</i>; but it is somewhat different from the trees +of the same kind which we had seen before, for the leaves are longer, +and hang down like those of the weeping willow.[76] We found also much +less gum upon them, which is contrary to the established opinion, that +the hotter the climate, the more gums exude. Upon a plant also which +yielded a yellow gum, there was less than upon the same kind of plant in +Botany Bay. Among the shoals and sandbanks we saw many large birds, some +in particular of the same kind that we had seen in Botany Bay, much +bigger than swans, which we judged to be pelicans; but they were so shy +that we could not get within gun-shot of them. Upon the shore we saw a +species of the bustard, one of which we shot; it was as large as a +turkey, and weighed seventeen pounds and a half. We all agreed that this +was the best bird we had eaten since we left England; and in honour of +it we called this inlet <i>Bustard Bay</i>. It lies in latitude 24° 4', +longitude 208° 18'. The sea seemed to abound with fish; but unhappily, +we tore our seine all to pieces at the first haul: Upon the mud banks, +under the mangroves, we found innumerable oysters of various kinds; +among others the hammer-oyster, and a large proportion of small +pearl-oysters: If in deeper water there is equal plenty of such oysters +at their full growth, a pearl fishery might certainly be established +here to very great advantage. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 75: For some remarks on these creatures, see the Section which +treats of this country in general.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 76: There are several trees which yield a resinous substance, +resembling what is called dragon's blood, as the Pterocarpus draco, the +Dracaena draco, the Calamus draco, the Dalbergia monetaria, &c. Some +observations on the botany of New Holland are reserved for a future +page.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The people who were left on board the ship said, that while we were in +the woods about twenty of the natives came down to the beach, abreast of +her, and having looked at her some time, went away; but we that were +ashore, though we saw smoke in many places, saw no people: The smoke was +at places too distant for us to get to them by land, except one, to +which we repaired. We found ten small fires still burning within a few +paces of each other; but the people were gone: We saw near them several +vessels of bark, which we supposed to have contained water, and some +shells and fish-bones, the remains of a recent meal. We saw also, lying +upon the ground, several pieces of soft bark, about the length and +breadth of a man, which we imagined might be their beds; and, on the +windward side of the fires, a small shade, about a foot and a half high, +of the same substance. The whole was in a thicket of close trees, which +afforded good shelter from the wind. The place seemed to be much +trodden, and as we saw no house, nor any remains of a house, we were +inclined to believe that, as these people had no clothes, they had no +dwelling; but spent their nights, among the other commoners of Nature, +in the open air; and Tupia himself, with an air of superiority and +compassion, shook his head, and said, that they were <i>Taata Enos</i>, "poor +wretches,".[77] I measured the perpendicular height of the last tide, +and found it to be eight feet above low-water mark, and from the time of +low-water this day, I found that it must be high-water at the full and +change of the moon at eight o'clock. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 77: The natives of New Holland are indeed "poor wretches;" but +let it be remembered that the term poor is relative. The reader must +make allowance for prejudice, in judging of their state from the +testimony of one who had lived in Otaheitan luxury. A Sicilian, it is +probable, would give a very sorry account of the Highlands and +Highlanders of Scotland-- + +<p> Yet still e'en here Content can spread a charm, + Redress the clime, and all its rage disarm. + +<p>We never more erroneously estimate the happiness of a people, than when +we set up our own habits as the criterion of perfection. The error of +Tupia is the error of thousands.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At four o'clock in the morning we weighed, and with a gentle breeze at +south made sail out of the bay. In standing out, our soundings were from +five to fifteen fathom; and at day-light, when we were in the greatest +depth, and abreast of the north head of the bay, we discovered breakers +stretching out from it N.N.E. between two and three miles, with a rock +at the outermost point of them just above water. While we were passing +these rocks, at the distance of about half a mile, we had from fifteen +to twenty fathom; and as soon as we had passed them, we hauled along +shore W.N.W. for the farthest land we had in sight. At noon, our +latitude, by observation, was 23° 52' S.; the north part of Bustard Bay +bore S. 62 E. distant ten miles; and the northermost land in sight N. 60 +W.; the longitude was 208° 37', and our distance from the nearest shore +six miles, with fourteen fathom water. + +<p>Till five in the afternoon it was calm, but afterwards we steered before +the wind N.W. as the land lay till ten at night, and then brought-to, +having had all along fourteen and fifteen fathom. At five in the morning +we made sail; and at day-light the northermost point of the main bore N. +70 W. Soon after we saw more land, making like islands, and bearing N.W. +by N. At nine, we were abreast of the point, at the distance of one +mile, with fourteen fathom water. This point I found to lie directly +under the tropic of Capricorn; and for that reason I called it <i>Cape +Capricorn</i>: Its longitude is 208° 58' W. It is of a considerable height, +looks white and barren, and may be known by some islands which lie to +the N.W. of it, and some small rocks at the distance of about a league +S.E. On the west side of the cape there appeared to be a lagoon, and on +the two spits which formed the entrance we saw an incredible number of +the large birds that resemble a pelican. The northermost land now in +sight bore from Cape Capricorn N. 24 W. and appeared to be an island; +but the main land trended W. by N. 1/2 N. which course we steered, +having from fifteen to six fathom, and from six to nine, with a hard +sandy bottom. At noon, on latitude, by observation, was 23° 24' S.; Cape +Capricorn bore S. 60 E. distant two leagues; and a small island N. by E. +two miles: In this situation we had nine fathom, being about four miles +from the main, which, next the sea, is low and sandy, except the points +which are high and rocky. The country inland is hilly, but by no means +of a pleasing aspect. We continued to stand to the N.W., till four +o'clock in the afternoon, when it fell calm; and we soon after anchored +in twelve fathom, having the main land and islands in a manner all round +us, and Cape Capricorn bearing S. 54 E. distant four leagues. In the +night, we found the tide rise and fall near seven feet; and the flood to +set to the westward, and the ebb to the eastward, which is just contrary +to what we found when we were at anchor to the eastward of Bustard Bay. + +<p>At six in the morning we weighed, with a gentle breeze at south, and +stood away to the N.W. between the outermost range of islands and the +main, leaving several small islands between the main and the ship, which +we passed at a very little distance; our soundings being irregular, from +twelve to four fathom, I sent a boat a-head to sound. At noon, we were +about three miles from the main, and about the same distance from the +islands without us: Our latitude, by observation, was 23° 7' S. The main +land here is high and mountainous; the islands which lie off it are also +most of them high, and of a small circuit, having an appearance rather +of barrenness than fertility. At this time we saw smoke in many places +at a considerable distance inland, and therefore conjectured that there +might be a lagoon, river, or inlet, running up the country, the rather +as we had passed two places which had the appearance of being such; but +our depth of water was too little to encourage me to venture where I +should probably have less. We had not stood to the northward above an +hour, before we suddenly fell into three fathom; upon which I anchored, +and sent away the master to sound the channel which lay to the leeward +of us, between the northermost island and the main: It appeared to be +pretty broad, but I suspected that it was shallow, and so indeed it was +found; for the master reported at his return that in many places he had +only two fathom and a half, and where we lay at anchor we had only +sixteen feet, which was not two feet more than the ship drew. While the +master was sounding the channel, Mr Banks tried to fish from the cabin +windows with hook and line: The water was too shallow for fish; but the +ground was almost covered with crabs, which readily took the bait, and +sometimes held it so fast in their claws, that they did not quit their +hold till they were considerably above water. These crabs were of two +sorts, and both of them such as we had not seen before: One of them was +adorned with the finest blue that can be imagined, in every respect +equal to the ultra-marine, with which all his claws and every joint was +deeply tinged; the under part of him was white, and so exquisitely +polished, that in colour and brightness it exactly resembled the white +of old china: The other was also marked with the ultra-marine upon his +joints and his toes, but somewhat more sparingly; and his back was +marked with three brown spots, which had a singular appearance. The +people who had been out with the boat to sound reported, that upon an +island where we had observed two fires, they had seen several of the +inhabitants, who called to them, and seemed very desirous that they +should land. In the evening, the wind veered to E.N.E. which gave us an +opportunity to stretch three or four miles back by the way we came; +after which the wind shifted to the south, and obliged us again to +anchor in six fathom. + +<p>At five in the morning, I sent away the master to search for a passage +between the islands, while we got the ship under sail; and as soon as it +was light, we followed the boat, which made a signal that a passage had +been found. As soon as we had got again into deep water, we made sail to +the northward, as the land lay, with soundings from nine fathom to +fifteen, and some small islands still without us. At noon we were about +two leagues distant from the main, and by observation, in latitude 22° +53' S. The northermost point of land in sight now bore N.N.W. distant +ten miles. To this point I gave the name of Cape Manifold, from the +number of high hills which appeared over it. It lies in latitude 22° 43' +S. and distant about seventeen leagues from Cape Capricorn, in the +direction of N. 26 W. Between these capes the shore forms a large bay, +which I called Keppel Bay; and I also distinguished the islands by the +name of Keppel's Islands. In this bay there is good anchorage; but what +refreshments it may afford I know not; we caught no fish, though we were +at anchor, but probably there is fresh water in several places, as both +the islands and the main are inhabited. We saw smoke and fires upon the +main, and upon the islands we saw people. At three in the afternoon we +passed Cape Manifold, from which the land trends N.N.W. The land of the +Cape is high, rising in hills directly from the sea, and may be known +by three islands which lie off it, one of them near the shore, and the +other two eight miles out at sea. One of these islands is low and flat, +and the other high and round. At six o'clock in the evening we +brought-to, when the northermost part of the main in sight bore N.W. and +some islands which lie off it N. 31 W. Our soundings after twelve +o'clock were from twenty to twenty-five fathom, and in the night from +thirty to thirty-four. + +<p>At day-break we made sail, Cape Manifold bearing S. by E. distant eight +leagues, and the islands which I had set the night before were distant +four miles in the same direction. The farthest visible point of the main +bore N. 67 W. at the distance of twenty-two miles; but we could see +several islands to the northward of this direction. At nine o'clock in +the forenoon we were abreast of the point which I called Cape Townshend. +It lies in latitude 22° 15', longitude 209° 43'. The land is high and +level, and rather naked than woody. Several islands lie to the northward +of it, at the distance of four or five miles out at sea; three or four +leagues to the S.E. the shore forms a bay, in the bottom of which there +appeared to be an inlet or harbour. To the westward of the Cape the land +trends S.W. 1/2 S. and there forms a very large bay which turns to the +eastward, and probably communicates with the inlet, and makes the land +of the Cape an island. As soon as we got round this cape, we hauled our +wind to the westward, in order to get within the islands, which lie +scattered in the bay in great numbers, and extend out to sea as far as +the eye could reach, even from the mast-head: These islands vary both in +height and circuit from each other, so that although they are very +numerous, no two of them are alike. We had not stood long upon a wind +before we came into shoal water, and were obliged to tack at once to +avoid it. Having sent a boat a-head, I bore away W. by N. many small +islands, rocks, and shoals lying between us and the main, and many of a +larger extent without us; our soundings till near noon were from +fourteen to seventeen fathom, when the boat made the signal for meeting +with shoal water; upon this we hauled close upon a wind to the eastward, +but suddenly fell into three-fathom and a quarter; we immediately +dropped an anchor, which brought the ship up with all her sails +standing. When the ship was brought up we had four fathom, with a +coarse sandy bottom, and found a strong tide setting to the N.W. by W. +1/2 W. at the rate of near three miles an hour, by which we were so +suddenly carried upon the shoal. Our latitude, by observation, was 22° +8' S. Cape Townshend bore E. 16 S. distant thirteen miles; and the +westermost part of the main in sight W. 3/4 N. At this time a great +number of islands lay all round us. + +<p>In the afternoon, having sounded round the ship, and found that there +was water sufficient to carry her over the shoal, we weighed, and about +three o'clock made sail and stood to the westward, as the land lay, +having sent a boat a-head to sound. At six in the evening we anchored in +ten fathom, with a sandy bottom, at about two miles distance from the +main; the westermost part of which bore W.N.W. and a great number of +islands, lying along way without us, were still in sight. + +<p>At five o'clock the next morning, I sent away the master with two boats +to sound the entrance of an inlet which bore from us west, at about the +distance of a league, into which I intended to go with the ship, that I +might wait a few days till the moon should increase, and in the mean +time examine the country. As soon as the ship could be got under sail, +the boats made the signal for anchorage, upon which we stood in, and +anchored in five fathoms water, about a league within the entrance of +the inlet; which, as I observed a tide to flow and ebb considerably, I +judged to be a river that ran up the country to a considerable distance. +In this place I had thoughts of laying the ship ashore, and cleaning her +bottom; I therefore landed with the master in search of a convenient +place for that purpose, and was accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander. +We found walking here exceedingly troublesome, for the ground was +covered with a kind of grass, the seeds of which were very sharp and +bearded backwards, so that whenever they stuck into our clothes, which +indeed was at every step, they worked forwards by means of the beard, +till they got at the flesh, and at the same time we were surrounded by a +cloud of musquitos, which incessantly tormented us with their stings. We +soon met with several places where the ship might conveniently be laid +ashore, but to our great disappointment we could find no fresh water. We +proceeded however up the country, where we found gum trees like those +that we had seen before, and observed that here also the gum was in very +small quantities. Upon the branches of these trees, and some others, we +found ants nests made of clay, as big as a bushel, something like those +described in Sir Hans Sloan's Natural History of Jamaica, vol. ii. p. +221, tab. 258, but not so smooth; the ants which inhabited these nests +were small and their bodies white. But upon another species of the tree +we found a small black ant, which perforated all the twigs, and having +worked out the pith, occupied the pipe which had contained it, yet the +parts in which these insects had thus formed a lodgment, and in which +they swarmed in amazing numbers, bore leaves and flowers, and appeared +to be in as flourishing a state as those that were sound. We found also +an incredible number of butterflies, so that for the space of three or +four acres the air was so crowded with them, that millions were to be +seen in every direction, at the same time that every branch and twig was +covered with others that were not upon the wing. We found here also a +small fish of a singular kind; it was about the size of a minnow, and +had two very strong breast fins; we found it in places that were quite +dry, where we supposed it might have been left by the tide; but it did +not seem to have become languid by the want of water, for upon our +approach it leaped away, by the help of the breast fins, as nimbly as a +frog; neither indeed did it seem to prefer water to land; for when we +found it in the water, it frequently leaped out, and pursued its way +upon dry ground; we also observed that when it was in places where small +stones were standing above the surface of the water at a little distance +from each other, it chose rather to leap from stone to stone, than to +pass through the water; and we saw several of them pass entirely over +puddles in this manner, till they came to dry ground, and then leap +away.[78] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 78: As the natural history department of the account of this +country will be filled up when we come to another voyage, little or no +attention is paid to it at present. Dr Hawkesworth's labours, it may +have been already observed by the intelligent reader, are satisfactory +to any one more than to a student of that science.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the afternoon we renewed our search after fresh water, but without +success, and therefore I determined to make my stay here but short; +however, having observed from an eminence that the inlet penetrated a +considerable way into the country, I determined to trace it in the +morning. + +<p>At sun-rise I went ashore, and climbing a considerable hill, I took a +view of the coast and the islands that lie off it, with their bearings, +having an azimuth compass with me for that purpose, but I observed that +the needle differed very considerably in its position, even to thirty +degrees, in some places more, in others less; and once I found it differ +from itself no less than two points in the distance of fourteen feet. I +took up some of the loose stones that lay upon the ground, and applied +them to the needle, but they produced no effect, and I therefore +concluded that there was iron ore in the hills, of which I had remarked +other indications both here and in the neighbouring parts. After I had +made my observations upon the hill, I proceeded with Dr Solander up the +inlet; I set out with the first of the flood, and long before high water +I had advanced above eight leagues. Its breadth thus far was from two to +five miles, upon a S.W. by S. direction; but here it opened every way, +and formed a large lake, which to the N.W. communicated with the sea; +and I not only saw the sea in this direction, but found the tide of +flood coming strongly in from that point: I also observed an arm of this +lake extending to the eastward, and it is not improbable that it may +communicate with the sea in the bottom of the bay, which lies to the +westward of Cape Townshend. On the south side of the lake is a ridge of +high hills which I was very desirous to climb; but it being high-water, +and the day far spent, I was afraid of being bewildered among the shoals +in the night, especially as the weather was dark and rainy; and +therefore I made the best of my way to the ship. In this excursion I saw +only two people, and they were at a distance; they followed the boat +along the shore a good way, but the tide running strongly in my favour, +I could not prudently wait for them: I saw however several fires in one +direction, and smoke in another, but they also were at a distance. While +I was tracing the inlet with Dr Solander, Mr Banks was endeavouring to +penetrate into the country, where several of the people who had leave to +go ashore were also rambling about. Mr Banks and his party found their +course obstructed by a swamp, covered with mangroves, which, however, +they resolved to pass; the mud was almost knee deep, yet they resolutely +went on, but before they got half way, they repented of their +undertaking: The bottom was covered with branches of trees interwoven +with each other, sometimes they kept their footing upon them, sometimes +their feet slipt through, and sometimes they were so entangled among +them, that they were forced to free themselves by groping in the mud and +slime with their hands. In about an hour, however, they crossed it, and +judged it might be about a quarter of a mile over. After a short walk +they came up to a place where there had been four small fires, and near +them some shells and bones of fish, that had been roasted: They found +also heaps of grass laid together, where four or five people appeared to +have slept. The second lieutenant, Mr Gore, who was at another place, +saw a little water lying in the bottom of a gully, and near it the track +of a large animal: Some bustards were also seen, but none shot, nor any +other bird except a few of the beautiful loriquets which we had seen in +Botany Bay. Mr Gore, and one of the midshipmen, who were in different +places, said that they had heard the voices of Indians near them, but +had seen none. The country in general appeared sandy and barren, and +being destitute of fresh water, it cannot be supposed to have any +settled inhabitants. The deep gullies, which were worn by torrents from +the hills, prove that at certain seasons the rains here are very copious +and heavy. + +<p>The inlet in which the ship lay I called Thirsty Sound, because it +afforded us no fresh water. It lies in latitude 22° 10' S. and longitude +210° 18' W. and may be known by a group of small islands lying under the +shore, from two to five leagues distant, in the direction of N.W. and by +another group of islands that lie right before it, between three and +four leagues out at sea. Over each of the points that form the entrance +is a high round hill, which on the N.W. is a peninsula that at high +water is surrounded by the sea; they are bold to both the shores, and +the distance between them is about two miles. In this inlet is good +anchorage in seven, six, five, and four fathom; and places very +convenient for laying a ship down, where, at spring-tides, the water +does not rise less than sixteen or eighteen feet. The tide flows at the +full and change of the moon about 11 o'clock. I have already observed +that here is no fresh water, nor could we procure refreshment of any +other kind. We saw two turtles, but we were not able to take either of +them; neither did we catch either fish or wild-fowl, except a few small +land-birds: We saw indeed the same sorts of water-fowl as in Botany Bay, +but they were so shy that we could not get a shot at them. + +<p>As I had not therefore a single inducement to stay longer in this place, +I weighed anchor at six o'clock in the morning of Thursday the 31st of +May, and put to sea. We stood to the N.W. with a fresh breeze at S.S.E. +and kept without the group of islands that lie in shore, and to the N.W. +of Thirsty Sound, as there appeared to be no safe passage between them +and the main: At the same time we had a number of islands without us, +extending as far as we could see: During our run in this direction our +depth of water was ten, eight, and nine fathom. At noon, the west point +of Thirsty Sound, which I have called Pier Head, bore S. 36 E. distant +five leagues; the east point of the other inlet, which communicates with +the sound, bore S. by W. distant two leagues; the group of islands just +mentioned lay between us and the point, and the farthest part of the +main in sight, on the other side of the inlet, bore N.W. Our latitude by +observation was 21° 53'. At half an hour after twelve, the boat, which +was sounding a-head, made the signal for shoal water, and we immediately +hauled our wind to the N.E. At this time we had seven fathom, at the +next cast five, and at the next three, upon which we instantly dropped +an anchor that brought the ship up. Pier Head, the north-west point of +Thirsty Sound, bore S.E. distant six leagues, being half-way between the +islands which lie off the east point of the western inlet, and three +small islands which lie directly without them. It was now the first of +the flood, which we found to set N.W. by W. 1/2 W.; and having sounded +about the shoal, upon which we had three fathom, and found deep water +all round it, we got under sail, and having hauled round the three +islands that have been just mentioned, came to an anchor under the lee +of them, in fifteen fathom water; and the weather being dark, hazy, and +rainy, we remained there till seven o'clock in the morning. At this time +we got again under sail, and stood to the N.W. with a fresh breeze at +S.S.E.; having the main land in sight, and a number of islands all round +us, some of which lay out at sea as far as the eye could reach. The +western inlet, which in the chart is distinguished by the name of Broad +Sound, we had now all open; at the entrance, it is at least nine or ten +leagues wide: In it, and before it, lie several islands, and probably +shoals also; for our soundings were very irregular, varying suddenly +from ten to four fathom. At noon, our latitude by observation was 21° +29' S., a point of land which forms the north-west entrance into Broad +Sound, and which I named <i>Cape Palmerston</i>, lying in latitude 21° 30', +longitude 210° 54' W. bore W. by N. distant three leagues. Our latitude +was 21° 27', our longitude 210° 57'. Between this Cape and Cape +Townshend lies the bay which I called the <i>Bay of Inlets</i>. We continued +to stand to the N.W. and N.W. by N. as the land lay, under an easy sail, +having a boat a-head to sound: At first the soundings were very +irregular, from nine to four fathom; but afterwards they were regular, +from nine to eleven. At eight in the evening, being about two leagues +from the main land, we anchored in eleven fathom, with a sandy bottom, +and soon after we found the tide setting with a slow motion to the +westward. At one o'clock it was slack, or low water; and at half an hour +after two the ship tended to the eastward, and rode so till six in the +morning, when the tide had risen eleven feet. We now got under sail, and +stood away in the direction of the coast, N.N.W. From what we had +observed of the tide during the night, it is plain that the flood came +from the N.W., whereas the preceding day, and several days before, it +came from the S.E.; nor was this the first or even second time that we +had remarked the same thing. At sun-rise this morning, we found the +variation to be 6° 45' E.; and in steering along the shore, between the +island and the main, at the distance of about two leagues from the main, +and three or four from the island, our soundings were regular from +twelve to nine fathom; but about eleven o'clock in the forenoon we were +again embarrassed with shoal water, having at one time not more than +three fathom, yet we got clear without casting anchor. At noon we were +about two leagues from the main, and four from the islands without us. +Our latitude by observation was 20° 56', and a high promontory, which I +named <i>Cape Hillsborough</i>, bore W. 1/2 N., distant seven miles. The land +here is diversified by mountains, hills, plains, and valleys, and seems +to be well clothed with herbage and wood: The islands which lie parallel +to the coast, and from five to eight or ten miles distant, are of +various height and extent; scarcely any of them are more than five +leagues in circumference, and many are not four miles: Besides this +chain of islands, which lies at a distance from the coast, there are +others much less, which lie under the land, from which we saw smoke +rising in different places. We continued to steer along the shore at the +distance of about two leagues, with regular soundings from nine to ten +fathom. At sun-set, the farthest point of the main bore N. 48 W. and to +the northward of this lay some high land, which I took to be an island, +and of which the north-west point bore 41 W.; but not being sure of a +passage, I came to an anchor about eight o'clock in the evening, in ten +fathom water, with a muddy bottom. About ten we had a tide setting to +the northward, and at two it had fallen nine feet; after this it began +to rise, and the flood came from the northward, in the direction of the +islands which lay out to sea; a plain indication that there was no +passage to the N.W. This however had not appeared at day-break, when we +got under sail and stood to the N.W. At eight o'clock in the morning, we +discovered low land quite across what we took for an opening, which +proved to be a bay, about five or six leagues deep; upon this we hauled +our wind to the eastward round the north point of the bay, which at this +time bore from us N.E. by N. distant four leagues: From this point we +found the land trend away N. by W. 1/2 W. and a streight or passage +between it and a large island, or islands, lying parallel to it. Having +the tide of ebb in our favour, we stood for this passage; and at noon +were just within the entrance: Our latitude by observation was 20° 26' +S.; Cape Hillsborough bore S. by E. distant ten leagues; and the north +point of the bay S. 19 W. distant four miles. This point, which I named +<i>Cape Conway</i>, lies in latitude 26° 36' S., longitude 211° 28' W.; and +the bay which lies between this Cape and Cape Hillsborough I called +<i>Repulse Bay</i>. The greatest depth of water which we found in it was +thirteen fathom, and the least eight. In all parts there was safe +anchorage, and I believe, that upon proper examination, some good +harbours would be found in it; especially at the north side within Cape +Conway; for just within that Cape there lie two or three small islands, +which alone would shelter that side of the bay from the southerly and +southeasterly winds, that seem to prevail here as a Trade. Among the +many islands that lie upon this coast, there is one more remarkable than +the rest; it is of a small circuit, very high and peaked, and lies E. by +S. ten miles from Cape Conway, at the south end of the passage. In the +afternoon, we steered through this passage, which we found to be from +three to seven miles broad, and eight or nine leagues in length, N. by +W. 1/2 W., S. by E. 1/2 E. It is formed by the main on the west, and by +the islands on the east, one of which is at least five leagues in +length: Our depth of water in running through was from twenty to +five-and-twenty fathom, with good anchorage everywhere, and the whole +passage may be considered as one safe harbour, exclusive of the small +bays and coves which abound on each side, where ships might lie as in a +bason. The land both upon the main and islands is high, and diversified +by hill and valley, wood and lawn, with a green and pleasant appearance. +On one of the islands we discovered with our glasses two men and a +woman, and a canoe with an outrigger, which appeared to be larger, and +of a construction very different from those of bark tied together at the +ends, which we had seen upon other parts of the coast; we hoped +therefore that the people here had made some farther advances beyond +mere animal life than those that we had seen before. At six o'clock in +the evening, we were nearly the length of the north end of the passage; +the north-westermost point of the main in sight bore N. 54.W., and the +north end of the island N.N.E. with an open sea between the two points. +As this passage was discovered on Whitsunday, I called it <i>Whitsunday's +Passage</i>, and I called the islands that form it <i>Cumberland Islands</i>, in +honour of his Royal Highness the Duke. We kept under an easy sail, with +the lead going all night, being at the distance of about three leagues +from the shore, and having from twenty-one to twenty-three fathom water. +At daybreak, we were abreast of the point which had been the farthest in +sight to the north-west the evening before, which I named <i>Cape +Gloucester</i>. It is a lofty promontory, in latitude 19° 59'S., longitude +211° 49' W. and may be known by an island which lies out at sea N. by W. +1/2 W. at the distance of five or six leagues from it, and which I +called <i>Holborne Isle</i>; there are also islands lying under the land +between Holborne Isle and Whitsunday's Passage. On the west side of Cape +Gloucester the land trends away S.W. and S.S.W. and forms a deep bay, +the bottom of which I could but just see from the mast-head: It is very +low, and a continuation of the low land which we had seen at the bottom +of Repulse Bay. This bay I called <i>Edgecumbe Bay</i>, but without staying, +to look into it, we continued our course to the westward, for the +farthest land we could see in that direction, which bore W. by N. 1/2 N. +and appeared very high. At noon, we were about three leagues from the +shore, by observation in latitude 19° 47' S., and Cape Gloucester bore +S. 63 E. distant seven leagues and a half. At six in the evening, we +were abreast of the westermost point just mentioned, at about three +miles distance, and because it rises abruptly from the low lands which +surround it, I called it <i>Cape Upstart</i>. It lies in latitude 19° 39' S., +longitude 212° 32' W., fourteen leagues W.N.W. from Cape Gloucester, and +is of a height sufficient to be seen at the distance of twelve leagues: +Inland there are some high hills or mountains, which, like the Cape, +afford but a barren prospect. Having passed this Cape, we continued +standing to the W.N.W. as the land lay, under an easy sail, having from +sixteen to ten fathom, till two o'clock in the morning, when we fell +into seven fathom; upon which we hauled our wind to the northward, +judging ourselves to be very near land: At day-break, we found our +conjecture to be true, being within little more than two leagues of it. +In this part of the coast the land, being very low, is nearer than it +appears to be, though it is diversified with here and there a hill. At +noon, we were about four leagues from the land, in fifteen fathom water, +and our latitude, by observation, was 19° 12' S. Cape Upstart bearing S. +32° 30' E. distant twelve leagues. About this time some very large +columns of smoke were seen rising from the low lands. At sun-set, the +preceding night, when we were close under Cape Upstart, the variation +was nearly 9° E., and at sun-rise this day, it was no more than 5° 35'.; +I judged therefore that it had been influenced by iron-ore, or other +magnetical matter, contained under the surface of the earth. + +<p>We continued to steer W.N.W. as the land lay, with twelve or fourteen +fathom water, till noon on the 6th, when our latitude by observation was +19° 1' S. and we had the mouth of a bay all open, extending from S. 1/2 +E. to S.W. 1/2 S. distant two leagues. This bay, which I named +<i>Cleaveland Bay</i>, appeared to be about five or six miles in extent every +way: The east point I named <i>Cape Cleaveland</i>, and the west, which had +the appearance of an island, <i>Magnetical Isle</i>, as we perceived that the +compass did not traverse well when we were near it: They are both high, +and so is the main-land within them, the whole forming a surface the +most rugged, rocky, and barren of any we had seen upon the coast; it was +not however without inhabitants, for we saw smoke in several parts of +the bottom of the bay. The northermost land that was in sight at this +time, bore N.W. and it had the appearance of an island, for we could not +trace the main-land farther than W. by N. We steered W.N.W. keeping the +main land on board, the outermost part of which, at sun-set, bore W. by +N. but without it lay high land, which we judged not to be part of it. +At day-break, we were abreast of the eastern part of this land, which we +found to be a group of islands, lying about five leagues from the main: +At this time, being between the two shores, we advanced slowly to the +N.W. till noon, when our latitude, by observation, was 18° 49' S. and +our distance from the main about five leagues: The northwest part of it +bore from us N. by W. 1/2 W. the islands extending from N. to E. and the +nearest being distant about two miles: Cape Cleaveland bore S. 50 E. +distant eighteen leagues. Our soundings, in the course that we had +sailed between this time and the preceding noon, were from fourteen to +eleven fathom. + +<p>In the afternoon, we saw several large columns of smoke upon the main; +we saw also some people and canoes, and upon one of the islands what had +the appearance of cocoa-nut trees: As a few of these nuts would now have +been very acceptable, I sent Lieutenant Hicks ashore, and with him went +Mr Banks and Dr Solander, to see what refreshment could be procured, +while I kept standing in for the island with the ship. About seven +o'clock in the evening they returned, with an account that what we had +taken for cocoa-nut trees, were a small kind of cabbage-palm, and that, +except about fourteen or fifteen plants, they had met with nothing worth +bringing away. While they were ashore, they saw none of the people, but +just as they had put off, one of them came very near the beach, and +shouted with a loud voice; it was so dark that they could not see him, +however they turned towards the shore, but when he heard the boat +putting back, he ran away or hid himself, for they could not get a +glimpse of him, and though, they shouted he made no reply. After the +return of the boats, we stood away N. by W. for the northermost land in +sight, of which we were abreast at three o'clock in the morning, having +passed all the islands three or four hours before. This land, on account +of its figure, I named <i>Point Hillock</i>: It is of a considerable height, +and may be known by a round hillock, or rock, which joins to the Point, +but appears to be detached from it. Between this Cape and Magnetical +Isle the shore forms a large bay, which I called <i>Halifax Bay</i>: Before +it lay the group of islands which has been just mentioned, and some +others, at a less distance from the shore. By these islands the Bay is +sheltered from all winds, and it affords good anchorage. The land near +the beach, in the bottom of the Bay, is low and woody, but farther back +it is one continued ridge of high land, which appeared to be barren and +rocky. Having passed Point Hillock, we continued standing to the N.N.W. +as the land trended, having the advantage of a light moon. At six, we +were abreast of a point of land which lies N. by W. 1/2 W., distant +eleven miles from Point Hillock, which I named <i>Cape Sandwich</i>. Between +these two points the land is very high, and the surface is craggy and +barren. Cape Sandwich may be known not only by the high craggy land over +it, but by a small island which lies east of it; at the distance of a +mile, and some others that lie about two leagues to the northward. From +Cape Sandwich the land trends W. and afterwards N. forming a fine large +bay, which I called <i>Rockingham Bay</i>, where there appears to be good +shelter, and good anchorage, but I did not stay to examine it: I kept +ranging along the shore to the northward, for a cluster of small +islands, which lie off the northern point of the Bay. Between the three +outermost of these islands, and those near the shore, I found a channel +of about a mile broad, through which I passed, and upon one of the +nearest islands we saw with our glasses about thirty of the natives, +men, women, and children, all standing together, and looking with great +attention at the ship; the first instance of curiosity we had seen among +them: They were all stark naked, with short hair, and of the same +complexion with those that we had seen before.[79] At noon, our +latitude, by observation, was 17° 59', and we were abreast of the north +point of Rockingham Bay, which bore from us W. at the distance of about +two miles. This boundary of the Bay is formed by an island of +considerable height, which I distinguished by the name of <i>Dunk Isle</i>, +and which lies so near the shore as not to be easily distinguished from +it. Our longitude was 213° 57' W. Cape Sandwich bore S. by E. 1/2 E. +distant nineteen miles, and the northermost land in sight N. 1/2 W.: Our +depth of water for the last ten hours had not been more than sixteen, +nor less than seven fathom. At sun-set, the northern extremity of the +land bore N. 25 W. and we kept our course N. by W. along the coast, at +the distance of between three and four leagues, with an easy sail all +night, having from twelve to fifteen fathom water. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 79: Dampier was of opinion, from the inattention of the people +of New Holland whom he fell in with, that they had some defect in +vision, so that they could not see at the usual distance. But this +opinion has been long abandoned. Other savages have occasionally +exhibited as strong marks of indifference to objects, one should think, +well fitted to attract their admiration and astonishment. A certain +degree of civilization seems absolutely requisite to rouse the human +mind to feelings of curiosity. Under this degree, man resembles a +vegetable, much more than that animated and intelligent being he becomes +in cultivated society.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At six o'clock in the morning, we were abreast of some small islands, +which we called <i>Frankland's Isles</i>, and which lie about two leagues +distant from the mainland. The most distant point in sight to the +northward bore N. by W. 1/2 W. and we thought it was part of the main, +but afterwards found it to be an island of considerable height, and +about four miles in circuit. Between this island and a point on the +main, from which it is distant about two miles, I passed with the ship. +At noon, we were in the middle of the channel, and by observation in the +latitude of 16° 57' S. with twenty fathom water. The point on the main, +of which we were now abreast, I called <i>Cape Grafton</i>: Its latitude is +16° 57' S., and longitude 214° 6' W., and the land here, as well as the +whole coast for about twenty leagues to the southward, is high, has a +rocky surface, and is thinly covered with wood: During the night we had +seen several fires, and about noon some people. Having hauled round Cape +Grafton, we found the land trend away N.W. by W., and three miles to the +westward of the Cape we found a bay, in which we anchored about two +miles from the shore, in four fathom water with an oozy bottom. The east +point of the bay bore S. 74 E., the west point S. 83 W., and a low, +green, woody island, which lies in the offing, N. 35 E. This island, +which lies N. by E. 1/2 E. distant three or four leagues from Cape +Grafton, I called <i>Green Island</i>. + +<p>As soon as the ship was brought to an anchor, I went ashore, accompanied +by Mr Banks and Dr Solander. As my principal view was to procure some +fresh water, and as the bottom of the bay was low land covered with +mangroves, where it was not probable fresh water was to be found, I went +out towards the Cape, and found two small streams, which however were +rendered very difficult of access by the surf and rocks upon the shore: +I saw also, as I came round the Cape, a small stream of water run over +the beach, in a sandy cove, but I did not go in with the boat, because I +saw that it would not be easy to land. When we got ashore, we found the +country every where rising into steep rocky hills, and as no fresh water +could conveniently be procured, I was unwilling to lose time by going +in search of lower land elsewhere: We therefore made the best of our way +back to the ship, and about midnight we weighed and stood to the N.W., +having but little wind, with some showers of rain. At four in the +morning, the breeze freshened at S. by E. and the weather became fair: +We continued steering N.N.W. 1/2 W. as the land lay, at about three +leagues distance, with ten, twelve, and fourteen fathom water. At ten, +we hauled off north, in order to get without a small low island, which +lay at about two leagues distance from the main, and great part of which +at this time, it being high-water, was overflowed: About three leagues +to the north-west of this island, close under the main land, is another +island, the land of which rises to a greater height, and which at noon +bore from us N. 55 W. distant seven or eight miles. At this time our +latitude was 16° 20' S. Cape Grafton bore S. 29 E. distant forty miles, +and the northermost point of land in sight N. 20 W.; our depth of water +was fifteen fathom. Between this point and Cape Grafton, the shore forms +a large, but not a very deep bay, which being discovered on Trinity +Sunday, I called <i>Trinity Bay</i>. + +<p>SECTION XXX. + +<p><i>Dangerous Situation of the Ship in her Course from Trinity Bay to +Endeavour River</i>.[80] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 80: We have now to relate some of the most remarkable +incidents in the history of nautical deliverances. These, however, the +philosophical composure of Dr Hawkesworth's creed did not allow him to +particularize, with that acknowledgment of providential interposition, +which those who have actually been in such dangers, are, in general, +strongly enough, and, it may be safely affirmed, sincerely inclined to +offer. It would be unjust not to hear him in defence of his own opinions +and conduct in the matter. It is given with all the candour that becomes +a man who chuses to think for himself, and at the same time with as much +boldness as entitles him to <i>generous</i> treatment from those who think +themselves bound to oppose him. The passage may seem long for a note, +but no one will object to it <i>as such</i>, who sets a value on correctness +of sentiment on the subject of which it treats. + +<p>"I have now only to request," says he, "of such of my readers as may be +disposed to censure me for not having attributed any of the critical +escapes from danger that I have recorded, to the particular +interposition of Providence, that they would, in this particular, allow +me the right o£ private judgment, which I claim with the greater +confidence, as the very same principle which would have determined them +to have done it, has determined me to the contrary. As I firmly believe +the divine precept delivered by the Author of Christianity, 'there is +not a sparrow falls to the ground without my Father,' and cannot admit +the agency of chance in the government of the world, I must necessarily +refer every event to one cause, as well the danger as the escape, as +well the sufferings as the enjoyments of life: and for this opinion, I +have, among other respectable authorities, that of the Bible. 'Shall +we,' says Job, 'receive good from the hand of God, and shall we not +receive evil?' The Supreme Being is equally wise and benevolent in the +dispensation of both evil and good, as means of effecting ultimate +purposes worthy of his ineffable perfections; so that whether we +consider ourselves as Christians or philosophers, we must acknowledge +that he deserves blessing not more when he gives than when he takes +away. If the fall of a sparrow, as well as its preservation, is imputed +to Providence, why not the fall as well as the preservation of a man? +And why should we attribute to Providence only what appears to be good +in its immediate effect, when we suppose that the whole concatenation of +events, whether the preservation or destruction of particular parts, +tends ultimately to the good of the whole? The same voice commissions +the winds to plough up the deep, which at the appointed time rebukes +them, saying, 'Peace, be still.' If the adorable Author and Preserver of +Nature was such a being as Baal is represented to have been by the +prophet, when he derided his worshippers; if he was sometimes on a +journey, and sometimes asleep, we might with propriety say that a fire +<i>happened</i> to break out, or a storm to rise, but that by the +interposition of Providence life was preserved, expressions which imply +that the mischief had one origin, and the remedy another; but such +language certainly derogates, from the honour of the great Universal +Cause, who, acting through all duration, and subsisting in all space, +fills immensity with his presence, and eternity with his power. + +<p>"It will perhaps be said, that in particular instances evil necessarily +results from that constitution of things which is best upon the whole, +and that Providence occasionally interferes, and supplies the defects of +the constitution in these particulars; but this notion will appear not +to be supported by those facts which are said to be providential; it +will always be found that Providence interposes too late, and only +moderates the mischief which it might have prevented. But who can +suppose an extraordinary interposition of Providence to supply +particular defects in the constitution of Nature, who sees those defects +supplied but in part? It is true, that when the Endeavour was upon the +rock off the coast of New Holland, the wind ceased, and that otherwise +she must have been beaten to pieces; but either the subsiding of the +wind was a mere natural event, If it was a natural event, Providence is +out of the question, at least we can with no more propriety say that +providentially the wind ceased, than that providentially the sun rose in +the morning. If it was not a mere natural event, but produced by an +extraordinary interposition, correcting a defect in the constitution of +nature, tending to mischief, it will lie upon those who maintain the +position, to shew, why an extraordinary interposition did not take place +rather to prevent the ship's striking, than to prevent her being beaten +to pieces after she had struck. A very slight impulse upon the ship's +course would have caused her to steer clear of the rock; and if all +things were not equally easy to Omnipotence, we should say that this +might have been done with less difficulty than a calm could be produced +by suspending the general laws of Nature, which had brought on the gale. + +<p>"I have, however, paid my homage to the Supreme Being, consonant to my +own ideas of his agency and perfections; and those who are of opinion +that my notions are erroneous, must allow, that he who does what he +thinks to be right, and abstains from what he thinks to be wrong, +acquits himself equally of moral obligation, whether his opinions are +false or true." + +<p>Such are the concluding observations in Dr Hawkesworth's General +Introduction to this work. That they have a most specious and rational +aspect, cannot be denied, with the exception of scarcely any thing more +than the last paragraph, in which it is implied, most erroneously, that +the conviction of being right is a sufficient evidence that one is +so,--a sentiment not more certainly the result of ignorance of human +nature in its present condition, than it is the potential source of +almost every immorality and mischief that have degraded or destroyed our +species. But conceding entirely the principles contended for by Dr H., +it may be demonstrated, that a directly contrary conclusion is their +proper legitimate issue, and that too, independent of any consideration +of other parts of our moral system, which, however, it will be found, in +point of fact, are more concerned than even our reason in the influence +exerted over our conduct. Neither time nor place admits the discussion +of the topic; and to the intelligent reader, this will seem quite +unnecessary, when he recollects a single principle, and follows it out +into its just consequences, viz. That as the Supreme Being is the cause +of all things, and is equally wise and benevolent in the dispensation of +both evil and good, so is he entitled to the homage, the fear, and love +of those whom he has created with faculties competent to the +understanding, in any degree, of his ineffable perfections; and in +consequence, his actions or dispensations become to them the proper +indications of the qualities of mind with which they ought to adore him. +It follows, that though alike proceeding from his benevolence or wisdom, +good and evil must be differently accepted by them, as really intended +for different, though perfectly consistent purposes. The humiliation +therefore of affliction, and the fervour of joy, are alike becoming them +on different occasions. We find accordingly, that in the constitution he +has given us, there is ample provision made for both, and that he acts +in perfect consistency with that constitution: And thus we may cordially +join in the sentiment of Mr Gibbon (ay, Mr Gibbon!) on another occasion: +"The satirist may laugh, the philosopher may preach; but reason herself +will respect the prejudices and habits which have been consecrated by +the experience of mankind." But Dr H., we see, is not content with the +dictates of reason; he calls in another aid to maintain this exercise of +private judgment. Has he appealed to Scripture? Then to Scripture he +shall go. But perhaps it may be said to him, as a popish priest, +defending the doctrine of purgatory, said to a protestant, who did not +relish it, "He may go farther, and fare worse. The language of the Bible +seems not to concur in the propriety of the Doctor's philosophic apathy +in such occurrences. The Psalmist, it may be safely affirmed, knew as +much of human nature as the Doctor, and was as well acquainted too with +what was becoming worship. He, however, differs egregiously in opinion. +In the 107th psalm, which so beautifully describes the manifold +goodness, and yet the varying providences of the Most High, we find a +passage which strikingly applies to such a case as we have been +contemplating, and which, at the same time, points out the natural and +highly proper emotions which result from it. "They that go down to the +sea in ships, that do business in great waters, these see the works of +the Lord, and his wonders in the deep. For he commandeth and raiseth the +stormy wind, which lifteth up the waves thereof. They mount up to +heaven, they go down again to the depths; their soul is melted because +of trouble. They reel to and fro, and stagger like a drunken man, and +all their wisdom is swallowed up. Then they cry unto the Lord in their +trouble, and he bringeth them out of their distresses. He maketh the +storm a calm, so that the waves thereof are still. Then are they glad +because they be quiet; so he bringeth them unto their desired haven. Oh +that men would praise the Lord for his goodness, and for his wonderful +works to the children of men!" Almost every word of this gives the lie +to the practical consequences of our Doctor's theory. It would be +invidious to oppress him with any other of the numerous such like +instances which this book presents. He appears to make much of the +obvious impropriety of using such terms as <i>happened</i>, in speaking of +certain events. But this is childish; for every one knows that by such +terms is expressed merely our ignorance of the series or train of +operations by which those events are brought to pass. They are used in +respect of ourselves, not by any means in reference to the Deity. But +there is something vastly worse than childishness, in his insinuation as +to what Omnipotence might do in preventing, not remedying evils. They +breathe a spirit of malevolent disaffection, which is indeed but very +imperfectly smothered in the decent language of conjectural +propositions. A sounder philosophy than his own would have told Dr H. in +the words of Bacon, that "the prerogative of God extendeth as well to +the reason, as to the will of man;" and that therefore it became him +humbly to contemplate what God <i>has</i> done, rather than to speculate as +to what he <i>might have</i> done. In nothing, however, has he so monstrously +blundered, as in hinting, that if an event is natural, therefore +Providence is out of the question in effecting it; and that, on the +other hand, if it is not natural, therefore even a benevolent +Providence, that has interposed to remedy the evils of it, is faulty in +not having been earlier at work to prevent its occurrence altogether. +This is sophistry of the worst kind. A single remark may be sufficient +to silence it. Nature is the regular operation of an intelligent +Providence; and natural events are the individual instances of it; but +it does not follow, either that events which to us seem irregular, are +therefore uninfluenced by the same Agent, or that the addition of the +word <i>mere</i> to the word <i>natural</i>, can signify any thing else than the +presumption of him, who chuses to exercise his right of private judgment +in using it, to exclude entirely the consideration of a Providence. This +is the more extraordinary in Dr H, because in his letter to Mr +Dalrymple, who had taxed him with some errors on this subject, he +affirms his belief to be "that the Supreme Being is perpetually +operating," and "that he is the cause of <i>all</i> events,"--propositions +certainly not very reconcileable with what he says here as to mere +natural events. It is, however, very like the inconsistencies of a man +who esteems his own conviction of consciousness of the rectitude of his +opinions, so highly, as to make him comparatively indifferent whether +they are false or true. Taking the view of the subject, then, which such +an admission offers, the question is readily solved, but not to the +credit of Dr H.'s judgment. If the Supreme Being is continually +operating, and is the cause of <i>all</i> things, then the Supreme Being is +the only providence, and providence is concerned in every event. But +according to the constitution which this providence has given us, +different events produce different effects on us, and these, on the same +principle, are also in the order of providence; and besides, we have the +advice of an inspired writer to this purport. "In the day of prosperity +be joyful, but in the day of adversity consider." It will be difficult +to shew that any prosperity is so blissful to the human heart as +redemption from death, in whatever sense we take the word; or that any +joy is so rational as that which expresses itself in gratitude to God, +the author of the blessing enjoyed. The converse of the text may be +similarly applied. That is the greatest adversity that most threatens +life (for all that a man hath will he give for it); and that is the most +suitable consideration that teaches to acknowledge the hand that smites, +and produces humble submission to the blow,--that leads a man, to say +with Job of old, "I have heard of thee (0 Lord) by the hearing of the +ear; but now mine eye seeth thee: Wherefore I abhor myself, and repent +in dust and ashes."--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Hitherto we had safely navigated this dangerous coast, where the sea in +all parts conceals shoals that suddenly project from the shore, and +rocks that rise abruptly like a pyramid from the bottom, for an extent +of two-and-twenty degrees of latitude, more than one thousand three +hundred miles; and therefore hitherto none of the names which +distinguish the several parts of the country that we saw, are memorials +of distress; but here we became acquainted with misfortune, and we +therefore called the point which we had just seen farthest to the +northward, <i>Cape Tribulation</i>. This cape lies in latitude l6° 6' S. and +longitude 214° 39' W. We steered along the shore N. by W. at the +distance of between three and four leagues, having from fourteen to +twelve, and ten fathom water: In the offing we saw two islands, which +lie in latitude 16° S. and about six or seven leagues from the main. At +six in the evening, the northermost land in sight bore N. by W. 1/2 W. +and two low woody islands, which some of us took to be rocks above +water, bore N. 1/2 W. At this time we shortened sail and hauled off +shore E.N.E. and N.E. by E. close upon a wind; for it was my design to +stretch off all night, as well to avoid the danger we saw a-head, as to +see whether any islands lay in the offing, especially as we were now +near the latitude assigned to the islands which were discovered by +Quiros, and which some geographers, for what reason I know not, have +thought fit to join to this land. We had the advantage of a fine breeze, +and a cleat moonlight night, and in standing off from six till near nine +o'clock, we deepened our water from fourteen to twenty-one fathom; but +while we were at supper it suddenly shoaled, and we fell into twelve, +ten, and eight fathom, within the space of a few minutes. I immediately +ordered every body to their station, and all was ready to put about and +come to an anchor; but meeting at the next cast of the lead with deep +water again, we concluded that we had gone over the tail of the shoals +which we had seen at sun-set, and that all danger was past. Before ten, +we had twenty and one-and-twenty fathom, and this depth continuing, the +gentlemen left the deck in great tranquillity, and went to bed; but a +few minutes before eleven, the water shallowed at once from twenty to +seventeen fathom, and before the lead could be cast again, the ship +struck, and remained immoveable, except by the heaving of the surge, +that beat her against the crags of the rock upon which she lay. In a few +moments every body was upon the deck, with countenances which +sufficiently expressed the horrors of our situation. We had stood off +the shore three hours and a half, with a pleasant breeze, and therefore +knew that we could not be very near it, and we had too much reason to +conclude that we were upon a rock of coral, which is more fatal than any +other, because the points of it are sharp, and every part of the surface +so rough as to grind away whatever is rubbed against it, even with the +gentlest motion. In this situation all the sails were immediately taken +in, and the boats hoisted out to examine the depth of water round the +ship. We soon discovered that our fears had not aggravated our +misfortune, and that the vessel had been lifted over a ledge of the +rock, and lay in a hollow within it: In some places there was from three +to four fathom, and in others not so many feet. The ship lay with her +head to the N.E.; and at the distance of about thirty yards on the +starboard side, the water deepened to eight, ten, and twelve fathom. As +soon as the long-boat was out, we struck our yards and topmasts, and +carried out the stream anchor on the starboard bow, got the coasting +anchor and cable into the boat, and were going to carry it out the same +way; but upon sounding a second time round the ship, the water was found +to be deepest astern: the anchor therefore was carried out from the +starboard quarter instead of the starboard bow, that is, from the stern +instead of the head, and having taken ground, our utmost force was +applied to the capstern, hoping that if the anchor did not come home, +the ship would be got off; but, to our great misfortune and +disappointment, we could not move her. During all this time she +continued to beat with great violence against the rock, so that it was +with the utmost difficulty that we kept upon our legs; and to complete +the scene of distress, we saw by the light of the moon the +sheathing-boards from the bottom of the vessel floating away all round +her, and at last her false keel, so that every moment was making way for +the sea to rush in which was to swallow us up. We had now no chance but +to lighten her, and we had lost the opportunity of doing that to the +greatest advantage, for unhappily we went on shore just at high water, +and by this time it had considerably fallen, so that after she should be +lightened so as to draw as much less water as the water had sunk, we +should be but in the same situation as at first; and the only +alleviation of this circumstance was, that as the tide ebbed the ship +settled to the rocks, and was not beaten against them with so much +violence. We had indeed some hope from the next tide, but it was +doubtful whether she would hold together so long, especially as the rock +kept grating her bottom under the starboard bow with such force as to be +heard in the fore store-room. This, however, was no time to indulge +conjecture, nor was any effort remitted in despair of success. That no +time might be lost, the water was immediately started in the hold, and +pumped up; six of our guns, being all we had upon the deck, our iron and +stone ballast, casks, hoop staves, oil jars, decayed stores, and many +other things that lay in the way of heavier materials, were thrown +overboard with the utmost expedition, every one exerting himself with an +alacrity almost approaching to cheerfulness, without the least repining +or discontent; yet the men were so far imprest with a sense of their +situation, that not an oath was heard among them, the habit of +profaneness, however strong, being instantly subdued by the dread of +incurring guilt when death seemed to be so near. + +<p>While we were thus employed, day broke upon us, and we saw the land at +about eight leagues distance, without any island in the intermediate +space, upon which, if the ship should have gone to pieces, we might have +been set ashore by the boats, and from which they might have taken us by +different turns to the main: The wind however gradually died away, and +early in the forenoon it was a dead calm; if it had blown hard, the ship +must inevitably have been destroyed. At eleven in the forenoon we +expected high water, and anchors were got out, and every thing made +ready for another effort to heave her off if she should float; but, to +our inexpressible surprise and concern, she did not float by a foot and +a half, though we had lightened her near fifty ton, so much did the day +tide fall short of that in the night. We now proceeded to lighten her +still more, and threw overboard every thing that it was possible for us +to spare: Hitherto she had not admitted much water, but as the tide +fell, it rushed in so fast, that two pumps, incessantly worked, could +scarcely keep her free. At two o'clock, she lay heeling two or three +streaks to starboard, and the pinnace, which lay under her bows, touched +the ground; we had now no hope but from the tide at midnight, and to +prepare for it we carried out our two bower anchors, one on the +starboard quarter, and the other right a-stern, got the blocks and +tackle which were to give us a purchase upon the cables in order, and +brought the falls, or ends of them, in abaft, straining them tight, that +the next effort might operate upon the ship, and by shortening the +length of the cable between that and the anchors, drew her off the ledge +upon which she rested, towards the deep water. About five o'clock in the +afternoon, we observed the tide begin to rise, but we observed at the +same time that the leak increased to a most alarming degree, so that +two, more pumps were manned, but unhappily only one of them, would work; +three of the pumps, however, were kept going, and at nine o'clock the +ship righted, but the leak had gained upon us so considerably, that it +was imagined she must go to the bottom as soon as she ceased to be +supported by the rock: This was a dreadful circumstance, so that we +anticipated the floating of the ship not as an earnest of deliverance, +but as an event that would probably precipitate our destruction. We well +knew that our boats were not capable of carrying us all on shore, and +that when the dreadful crisis should arrive, as all command and +subordination would be at an end, a contest for preference would +probably ensue, that would increase even the horrors of shipwreck, and +terminate in the destruction of us all by the hands of each other; yet +we knew that if any should be left on board to perish in the waves, they +would probably suffer less upon the whole than those who should get on +shore, without any lasting or effectual defence against the natives, in +a country where even nets and fire-arms would scarcely furnish them with +food; and where, if they should find the means of subsistence, they must +be condemned to languish out the remainder of life in a desolate +wilderness, without the possession, or even hope, of any domestic +comfort, and cut off from all commerce with mankind, except the naked +savages who prowled the desert, and who perhaps were some of the most +rude and uncivilized upon the earth. + +<p>To those only who have waited in a state of such suspense, Death has +approached in all his tenors; and as the dreadful moment that was to +determine our fate came on, every one saw his own sensations pictured in +the countenances of his companions: However, the capstan and wind-lace +were manned with as many hands as could be spared from the pumps, and +the ship floating about twenty minutes after ten o'clock, the effort was +made, and she was heaved into deep water. It was some comfort to find +that she did not now admit more water than she had done upon the rock; +and though by the gaining of the leak upon the pumps, there was no less +than three feet nine inches water in the hold, yet the men did not +relinquish their labour, and we held the water as it were at bay; but +having now endured excessive fatigue of body and agitation of mind for +more than four-and-twenty hours, and having but little hope of +succeeding at last, they began to flag: None of them could work at the +pump more than five or six minutes together, and then, being totally +exhausted, they threw themselves down upon the deck, though a stream of +water was running over it from the pumps between three and four inches +deep; when those who succeeded them had worked their spell, and were +exhausted in their turn, they threw themselves down in the same manner, +and the others started up again, and renewed their labour; thus +relieving each other till an accident was very near putting an end to +their efforts at once. The planking which lines the inside of the ship's +bottom is called the ceiling, and between this and the outside planking +there is a space of about eighteen inches: The man who till this time +had attended the well to take the depth of water, had taken it only to +the ceiling, and gave the measure accordingly; but he being now +relieved, the person who came in his stead reckoned the depth to the +outside planking, by which it appeared in a few minutes to have gained +upon the pumps eighteen inches, the difference between the planking +without and within. Upon this even the bravest was upon the point of +giving up his labour with his hope, and in a few minutes every thing +would have been involved in all the confusion of despair. But this +accident, however dreadful in its first consequences, was eventually the +cause of our preservation. The mistake was soon detected, and the sudden +joy which every man felt upon finding his situation better than his +fears had suggested, operated like a charm, and seemed to possess him +with a strong belief that scarcely any real danger remained. New +confidence and new hope, however founded, inspired new vigour; and +though our state was the same as when the men first began to slacken in +their labour, through weariness and despondency, they now renewed their +efforts with such alacrity and spirit, that before eight o'clock in the +morning the leak was so far from having gained upon the pumps, that the +pumps had gained considerably upon the leak. Every body now talked of +getting the ship into some harbour, as a thing not to be doubted, and as +hands could be spared from the pumps, they were employed in getting up +the anchors: The stream anchor and best bower we had taken on board; but +it was found impossible to save the little bower, and therefore it was +cut away at a whole cable; we lost also the cable of the stream anchor +among the rocks; but in our situation these were trifles which scarcely +attracted our notice. Our next business was to get up the fore top-mast, +and fore-yard, and warp the ship to the south-east, and at eleven, +having now a breeze from the sea, we once more got under sail and stood +for the land. + +<p>It was however impossible long to continue the labour by which the pumps +had been made to gain upon the leak, and as the exact situation of it +could not be discovered, we had no hope of stopping it within. In this +situation, Mr Monkhouse, one of my midshipmen, came to me and proposed +an expedient that he had seen used on board a merchant ship, which +sprung a leak that admitted above four feet water an hour, and which by +this expedient was brought safely from Virginia to London; the master +having such confidence in it, that he took her out of harbour, knowing +her condition, and did not think it worth while to wait till the leak +could be otherwise stopped. To this man, therefore, the care of the +expedient, which is called fothering the ship, was immediately +committed, four or five of the people being appointed to assist him, and +he performed it in this manner: He took a lower studding sail, and +having mixed together a large quantity of oakum and wool, chopped pretty +small, he stitched it down in handfuls upon the sail, as lightly as +possible, and over this he spread the dung of our sheep and other filth; +but horse dung, if we had had it, would have been better. When the sail +was thus prepared, it was hauled under the ship's bottom by ropes, which +kept it extended, and when it came under the leak, the suction which +carried in the water, carried in with it the oakum and wool from the +surface of the sail, which in other parts the water was not sufficiently +agitated to wash off.[81] By the success of this expedient, our leak was +so far reduced, that instead of gaining upon three pumps, it was easily +kept under with one. This was a new source of confidence and comfort; +the people could scarcely have expressed more joy if they had been +already in port; and their views were so far from being limited to +running the ship ashore in some harbour, either of an island or the +main, and building a vessel out of her materials to carry us to the East +Indies, which had so lately been the utmost object of our hope, that +nothing was now thought of but ranging along the shore in search of a +convenient place to repair the damage she had sustained, and then +prosecuting the voyage upon the same plan as if nothing had happened. +Upon this occasion I must observe, both in justice and gratitude to the +ship's company, and the gentlemen on board, that although in the midst +of our distress every one seemed to have a just sense of his danger, yet +no passionate exclamations, or frantic gestures, were to be heard or +seen; every one appeared to have the perfect possession of his mind, and +everyone exerted himself to the uttermost, with a quiet and patient +perseverance, equally distant from the tumultuous violence of terror, +and the gloomy inactivity of despair.[82] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 81: A somewhat different account of the operation called +fothering a vessel, is given in the Encyclopædia Britannica. The +expedient does not appear to be adopted. The importance of the benefit +intended by it is so great, as to justify the most sedulous care to +bring the principle within the range of a seaman's professional studies. +It is somewhat singular that Cook was not acquainted with it.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 82: With the modesty of real worth, Cook expends his eulogium +on his companions in danger, without seeming to reserve the smallest +consideration for his own dignified behaviour in such extreme peril. Who +can doubt, that the conduct of the crew was in unison with the fortitude +and intelligence of their commander? It is on such occasions that the +effects of discipline are most conspicuous. In common occurrences, the +mere attention to rules is amply sufficient to call forth our esteem. +What shall we say of their merit, who, in such untoward emergencies, +extend the influence of beneficial authority beyond the force of some of +the strongest passions that agitate our frame?--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the mean time, having light airs at E.S.E. we got up the main +top-mast, and main-yard, and kept edging in for the land, till about six +o'clock in the evening, when we came to an anchor in seventeen fathom +water, at the distance of seven leagues from the shore, and one from the +ledge of rocks upon which we had struck. + +<p>This ledge or shoal lies in latitude 15° 45' S., and between six and +seven leagues from the main. It is not however the only shoal on this +part of the coast, especially to the northward; and at this time we saw +one to the southward, the tail of which we passed over, when we had +uneven soundings about two hours before we struck. A part of this shoal +is always above water, and has the appearance of white sand: A part also +of that upon which we had lain is dry at low water, and in that place +consists of sand stones, but all the rest of it is a coral rock. + +<p>Whilst we lay at anchor for the night, we found that the ship made about +fifteen inches water an hour, from which no immediate danger was to be +apprehended; and at six o'clock in the morning we weighed and stood to +the N.W., still edging in for the land with a gentle breeze at S.S.E. At +nine we passed close without two small islands that lie in latitude 15° +41' S., and about four leagues from the main: To reach these islands +had, in the height of our distress, been the object of our hope, or +perhaps rather of our wishes, and therefore I called them <i>Hope +Islands</i>. At noon we were about three leagues from the land, and in +latitude 15° 37' S.; the northermost part of the main in sight bore N. +30 W.; and Hope Islands extended from S. 30 E. to S. 40 E. In this +situation we had twelve fathom water, and several sand banks without us. +At this time the leak had not increased; but that we might be prepared +for all events, we got the sail ready for another fothering. In the +afternoon, having a gentle breeze at S.E. by E., I sent out the master +with two boats, as well to sound a-head of the ship as to look out for a +harbour where we might repair our defects, and put the ship in a proper +trim. At three o'clock we saw an opening that had the appearance of an +harbour, and stood off and on while the boats examined it, but they soon +found that there was not depth of water in it sufficient for the ship. +When it was near sun-set, there being many shoals about us, we anchored +in four fathom, at the distance of about two miles from the shore, the +land extending from N. 1/2 E. to S. by E. 1/2 E. The pinnace was still +out with one of the mates; but at nine o'clock she returned, and +reported, that about two leagues to leeward she had discovered just +such a harbour as we wanted, in which there was a sufficient rise of +water, and every other convenience that could be desired, either for +laying the ship ashore, or heading her down. + +<p>In consequence of this information, I weighed at six o'clock in the +morning, and having sent two boats a-head, to lie upon the shoals that +we saw in our way, we ran down to the place; but notwithstanding our +precaution, we were once in three fathom water. As soon as these shoals +were passed, I sent the boats to lie in the channel that led to the +harbour, and by this time it began to blow. It was happy for us that a +place of refuge was at hand; for we soon found that the ship would not +work, having twice missed stays: Oar situation, however, though it might +have been much worse, was not without danger; we were entangled among +shoals, and I had great reason to fear being driven to leeward before +the boats could place themselves so as to prescribe our course. I +therefore anchored in four fathom, about a mile from the shore, and then +made the signal for the boats to come on board. When this was done, I +went myself and buoyed the channel, which I found very narrow; the +harbour also I found smaller than I expected, but most excellently +adapted to our purpose; and it is remarkable, that in the whole course +of our voyage we had seen no place which, in our present circumstances, +could have afforded us the same relief. At noon, our latitude was 15° +26' S. During all the rest of this day, and the whole night, it blew too +fresh for us to venture from our anchor and run into the harbour; and +for our farther security, we got down the top-gallant yards, unbent the +main-sail and some of the small sails; got down the +fore-top-gallant-mast, and the jibb-boom, and sprit-sail, with a view to +lighten the ship forwards as much as possible, in order to come at her +leak, which we supposed to be somewhere in that part; for in all the joy +of our unexpected deliverance, we had not forgot that at this time there +was nothing but a lock of wool between us and destruction. The gale +continuing, we kept our station all the 15th. On the 16th, it was +somewhat more moderate; and about six o'clock in the morning we hove the +cable short, with a design to get under sail, but were obliged to +desist, and veer it out again. It is remarkable that the sea-breeze, +which blew fresh when we anchored, continued to do so almost every day +white we stayed here; it was calm only while we were upon the rock, +except once; and even the gale that afterwards wafted us to the shore, +would then certainly have beaten us to pieces. In the evening of the +preceding day, we had observed a fire near the beach over against us; +and, as it would be necessary for us to stay some time in this place, we +were not without hope of making an acquaintance with the people. We saw +more fires upon the hills to-day, and with our glasses discovered four +Indians going along the shore, who stopped and made two fires; but for +what purpose it was impossible we should guess. + +<p>The scurvy now began to make its appearance among us, with many +formidable symptoms. Our poor Indian, Tupia, who had some time before +complained that his gums were sore and swelled, and who had taken +plentifully of our lemon juice by the surgeon's direction, had now livid +spots upon his legs, and other indubitable testimonies that the disease +had made a rapid progress, notwithstanding all our remedies, among which +the bark had been liberally administered. Mr Green, our astronomer, was +also declining; and these, among other circumstances, embittered the +delay which prevented our going ashore. + +<p>In the morning of the 17th, though the wind was still fresh, we ventured +to weigh, and push in for the harbour; but in doing this we twice run +the ship aground: The first time she went off without any trouble, but +the second time she stuck fast. We now got down the fore-yard, fore +top-masts, and booms, and taking them overboard, made a raft of them +alongside of the ship. The tide was happily rising, and about one +o'clock in the afternoon she floated. We soon warped her into the +harbour, and having moored her alongside of a steep beach to the south, +we got the anchors, cables, and all the hawsers on shore before night. + +<p>SECTION XXXI. + +<p><i>Transactions while the Ship was refitting in Endeavour River: A +Description of the adjacent Country, its Inhabitants and Productions</i>. + +<p>In the morning of Monday the 18th, a stage was made from the ship to the +shore, which was so bold that she floated at twenty feet distance: Two +tents were also set up, one for the sick, and the other for stores and +provisions, which were landed in the course of the day. We also landed +all the empty water-casks, and part of the stores. As soon as the tent +for the sick was got ready for their reception, they were sent ashore to +the number of eight or nine, and the boat was dispatched to haul the +seine, in hopes of procuring some fish for their refreshment; but she +returned without success. In the mean time, I climbed one of the highest +hills among those that overlooked the harbour, which afforded by no +means a comfortable prospect: The low land near the river is wholly +over-run with mangroves, among which the salt water flows every tide; +and the high land appeared to be everywhere stoney and barren. In the +mean time, Mr Banks had also taken a walk up the country, and met with +the frames of several old Indian houses, and places where they had +dressed shell-fish; but they seemed not to have been frequented for some +months. Tupia, who had employed himself in angling, and lived entirely +upon what he caught, recovered in a surprising degree; but Mr Green +still continued to be extremely ill. + +<p>The next morning I got the four remaining guns out of the hold, and +mounted them upon the quarter-deck; I also got a spare anchor and +anchor-stock ashore, and the remaining part of the stores and ballast +that were in the hold; set up the smith's forge, and employed the +armourer and his mate to make nails and other necessaries for the repair +of the ship. In the afternoon, all the officers' stores and ground tier +of water were got out, so that nothing remained in the fore and main +hold but the coals, and a small quantity of stone ballast. This day Mr +Banks crossed the river to take a view of the country on the other side; +he found it consist principally of sand-hills, where he saw some Indian +houses, which appeared to have been very lately inhabited. In his walk +he met with vast flocks of pigeons and crows: Of the pigeons, which were +exceedingly beautiful, he shot several; but the crows, which were +exactly like those in England, were so shy that he could not get within +reach of them. + +<p>On the 20th, we landed the powder and got out the stone ballast and +wood, which brought the ship's draught of water to eight feet ten inches +forward, and thirteen feet abaft; and this I thought, with the +difference that would be made of trimming the coals aft, would be +sufficient; for I found that the water rose and fell perpendicularly +eight feet at the spring-tides: But as soon as the coals were trimmed +from over the leak, we could hear the water rush in a little abaft the +foremast, about three feet from the keel; this determined me to clear +the hold entirely. This evening Mr Banks observed that in many parts of +the inlet there were large quantities of pumice-stones, which lay at a +considerable distance above high-water mark, whither they might have +been carried either by the freshes or extraordinary high tides, for +there could be no doubt but that they came from the sea. + +<p>The next morning we went early to work, and by four o'clock in the +afternoon had got out all the coals, cast the moorings loose, and warped +the ship a little higher up the harbour to a place which I thought most +convenient for laying her ashore in order to stop the leak. Her draught +of water forward was now seven feet nine inches, and abaft thirteen feet +six inches. At eight o'clock, it being high water, I hauled her bow +close ashore, but kept her stern afloat, because I was afraid of neiping +her; it was however necessary to lay the whole of her as near the ground +as possible. + +<p>At two o'clock in the morning of the 22d, the tide left her, and gave us +an opportunity to examine the leak, which we found to be at her +floor-heads, a little before the starboard fore-chains. In this place +the rocks had made their way through four planks, and even into the +timbers; three more planks were much damaged, and the appearance of +these breaches was very extraordinary: There was not a splinter to be +seen, but all was so smooth as if the whole had been cut away by an +instrument: The timbers in this place were happily very close, and if +they had not, it would have been absolutely impossible to have saved the +ship. But after all, her preservation depended upon a circumstance still +more remarkable: One of the holes, which was big enough to have sunk us, +if we had had eight pumps instead of four, and been able to keep them +incessantly going, was in great measure plugged up by a fragment of the +rock, which, after having made the wound, was left sticking in it, so +that the water which at first had gained upon our pumps was what came in +at the interstices, between the stone and the edges of the hole that +received it. We found also several pieces of the fothering, which had +made their way between the timbers, and in a great measure stopped those +parts of the leak which the stone had left open. Upon further +examination, we found that, besides the leak, considerable damage had +been done to the bottom; great part of the sheathing was gone from under +the larboard bow; a considerable part of the false keel was also +wanting, and these indeed we had seen swim away in fragments from the +vessel, while she lay beating against the rock: The remainder of it was +in so shattered a condition, that it had better have been gone; and the +fore foot and main keel were also damaged, but not so as to produce any +immediate danger: What damage she might have received abaft could not +yet be exactly known, but we have reason to think it was not much, as +but little water made its way into her bottom, while the tide kept below +the leak which has already been described. By nine o'clock in the +morning the carpenters got to work upon her, while the smiths were busy +in making bolts and nails. In the mean time, some of the people were +sent on the other side of the water to shoot pigeons for the sick, who +at their return reported that they had seen an animal as large as a +greyhound, of a slender make, a mouse-colour, and extremely swift; they +discovered also many Indian houses, and a fine stream of fresh water. + +<p>The next morning I sent a boat to haul the seine; but at noon it +returned with only three fish, and yet we saw them in plenty leaping +about the harbour. This day the carpenter finished the repairs that were +necessary on the starboard side; and at nine o'clock in the evening we +heeled the ship the other way, and hauled her off about two feet for +fear of neiping. This day almost every body had seen the animal which +the pigeon-shooters had brought an account of the day before; and one of +the seamen, who had been rambling in the woods, told us at his return +that he verily believed he had seen the devil: We naturally enquired in +what form he had appeared, and his answer was in so singular a style, +that I shall set down his own words: "He was," says John, "as large as +a one gallon keg and very like it; he had horns and wings, yet he crept +so slowly through, the grass, that if I had not been afeard I might have +touched him." This formidable apparition we afterwards discovered to +have been a batt; and the batts here must be acknowledged to have a +frightful appearance, for they are nearly black, and full as large as a +partridge; they have indeed no horns, but the fancy of a man who thought +he saw the devil, might easily supply that defect. + +<p>Early on the 24th the carpenters began to repair the sheathing under the +larboard bow, where we found two planks cut about half through; and in +the mean time I sent a party of men, under the direction of Mr Gore, in +search, of refreshments for the sick: This party returned about noon +with a few palm cabbages, and a bunch or two of wild plantain; the +plantains were the smallest I had ever seen, and the pulp, though it was +well tasted, was full of small stones. As I was walking this morning at +a little distance from the ship, I saw myself one of the animals which +had been so often described; it was of a light mouse-colour, and in size +and shape very much resembling a greyhound; it had a long tail also, +which it carried like a greyhound; and I should have taken it for a +wild-dog, if, instead of running, it had not leapt like a hare or deer: +Its legs were said to be very slender, and the print of its foot to be +like that of a goat; but where I saw it the grass was so high that the +legs were concealed, and the ground was too hard to receive the track. +Mr Banks also had an imperfect view of this animal, and was of opinion +that its species was hitherto unknown.[83] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 83: It is almost superfluous to tell any reader now that the +animal mentioned is the kangaroo, of which specimens are to be seen in +nearly every travelling collection of wild beasts.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>After the ship was hauled ashore, all the water that came into her of +course went backwards; so that although she was dry forwards, she had +nine feet water abaft: As in this part therefore her bottom could not be +examined on the inside, I took the advantage of the tide being out this +evening to get the master and two of the men to go under her, and +examine her whole larboard side without. They found the sheathing gone +about the floor-heads abreast of the main-mast, and part of a plank a +little damaged; but all agreed that she had received no other material +injury. The loss of her sheathing alone was a great misfortune, as the +worm would now be let into her bottom, which might expose us to great +inconvenience and danger; but as I knew no remedy for the mischief but +heaving her down, which would be a work of immense labour and long time, +if practicable at all in our present situation, I was obliged to be +content. The carpenters however continued to work under her bottom in +the evening till they were prevented by the tide; the morning tide did +not ebb out far enough to permit them to work at all, for we had only +one tolerable high and low tide in four-and-twenty hours, as indeed we +had experienced when we lay upon the rock. The position of the ship, +which threw the water in her abaft, was very near depriving the world of +all the knowledge which Mr Banks had endured so much labour, and so many +risks, to procure; for he had removed the curious collection of plants +which he made during the whole voyage into the bread-room, which lies in +the after-part of the ship, as a place of the greatest security; and +nobody having thought of the danger to which laying her head so much +higher than the stem would expose them, they were this day found under +water. Most of them however were, by indefatigable care and attention, +restored to a state of preservation, but some were entirely spoilt and +destroyed. + +<p>The 25th was employed in filling water and overhauling the rigging, and +at low-water the carpenters finished the repairs under the larboard bow, +and every other place which the tide would permit them to come at; some +casks were then lashed under her bows to facilitate her floating, and at +night, when it was high water, we endeavoured to heave her off, but +without success, for some of the casks that were lashed to her gave way. + +<p>The morning of the 26th was employed in getting more casks ready for the +same purpose, and in the afternoon we lashed no less than +eight-and-thirty under the ship's bottom, but to our great mortification +these also proved ineffectual, and we found ourselves reduced to the +necessity of waiting till the next spring-tide. + +<p>This day some of our gentlemen who had made an excursion into the woods, +brought home the leaves of a plant which was thought to be the same that +in the West Indies is called coccos; but upon trial the roots proved too +acrid to be eaten; the leaves, however, were little inferior to +spinnage. In the place where these plants were gathered, grew plenty of +the cabbage trees which have occasionally been mentioned before, a kind +of wild plantain, the fruit of which was so full of stones as scarcely +to be eatable; another fruit was also found about the size of a small +golden pippin, but flatter, and of a deep purple colour: When first +gathered from the tree, it was very hard and disagreeable, but after +being kept a few days became soft, and tasted very much like an +indifferent damascene. + +<p>The next morning we began to move some of the weight from the after-part +of the ship forward, to ease her; in the mean time the armourer +continued to work at the forge, the carpenter was busy in caulking the +ship, and the men employed in filling water and overhauling the rigging: +In the forenoon, I went myself in the pinnace up the harbour, and made +several hauls with the seine, but caught only between twenty and thirty +fish, which were given to the sick and convalescent. + +<p>On the 28th, Mr Banks went with some of the seamen up the country, to +shew them the plant which in the West Indies is called Indian kale, and +which served us for greens. Tupia had much meliorated the root of the +coccos, by giving them a long dressing in his country oven, but they +were so small that we did not think them an object for the ship. In +their walk they found one tree which had been notched for the +convenience of climbing it, in the same manner with those, we had seen +in Botany Bay: They saw also many nests of white ants, which resemble +those of the East Indies, the most pernicious insects in the world. The +nests were of a pyramidical figure, from a few inches to six feet high, +and very much resembled the stones in England, which are said to be +monuments of the Druids. Mr Gore who was also this day four or five +miles up the country, reported that he had seen the footsteps of men, +and tracked animals of three or four different sorts, but had not been +fortunate enough to see either man or beast. + +<p>At two o'clock in the morning of the 20th, I observed, in conjunction +with Mr Green, an emersion of Jupiter's first satellite; the time here +was 2h 18' 53", which gave the longitude of this place 214° 42' 30" W.; +its latitude is 15° 26' S. At break of day, I sent the boat out again +with the seine, and in the afternoon it returned with as much fish as +enabled me to give every man a pound and a half. One of my midshipmen, +an American, who was this day abroad with his gun, reported that he had +seen a wolf, exactly like those which he had been used to see in his own +country, and that he had shot at it, but did not kill it. + +<p>The next morning, encouraged by the success of the day before, I sent +the boat again to haul the seine, and another party to gather greens: I +sent also some of the young gentlemen to take a plan of the harbour, and +went myself upon a hill, which lies over the south point, to take a view +of the sea. At this time it was low water, and I saw, with great +concern, innumerable sand-banks and shoals lying all along the coast in +every direction. The innermost lay about three or four miles from the +shore, the outermost extended as far as I could see with my glass, and +many of them did but just rise above water. There was some appearance of +a passage to the northward, and I had no hope of getting clear but in +that direction, for as the wind blows constantly from the S.E., it would +have been difficult, if not impossible, to return back to the southward. + +<p>Mr Gore reported that he had this day seen two animals like dogs, of a +straw colour, that they ran like a hare, and were about the same size. +In the afternoon, the people returned from hauling the seine, with still +better success than before, for I was now able to distribute two pounds +and an half to each man: The greens that had been gathered I ordered to +be boiled among the peas, and they made an excellent mess, which, with +copious supplies of fish, afforded us unspeakable refreshment. + +<p>The next day, July the 1st, being Sunday, every body had liberty to go +ashore, except one from each mess, who were again sent out with the +seine. The seine was again equally successful, and the people who went +up the country gave an account of having seen several animals, though +none of them were to be caught. They saw a fire also about a mile up the +river, and Mr Gore, the second lieutenant, picked up the husk of a +cocoa-nut, which had been cast upon the beach, and was full of +barnacles: This probably might come from some island to windward, +perhaps from the Terra del Espirito Santo of Quiros, as we were now in +the latitude where it is said to lie. This day the thermometer in the +shade rose to 87, which was higher than it had been on any day since we +came upon this coast. + +<p>Early the next morning, I sent the master in the pinnace out of the +harbour, to sound about the shoals in the offing, and look for a channel +to the northward: At this time we had a breeze from the land, which +continued till about nine o'clock, and was the first we had since our +coming into the river. At low water we lashed some empty casks under the +ship's bows, having some hope that as the tides were rising she would +float the next high water. We still continued to fish with great +success, and at high water we again attempted to heave the ship off, but +our utmost efforts were still ineffectual. + +<p>The next day at noon the master returned, and reported that he had found +a passage out to sea between the shoals, and described its situation. +The shoals, he said, consisted of coral rocks, many of which were dry at +low water, and upon one of which he had been ashore. He found here some +cockles of so enormous a size, that one of them was more than two men +could eat, and a great variety of other shell-fish, of which he brought +us a plentiful supply: In the evening he had also landed in a bay about +three leagues to the northward of our station, where he disturbed some +of the natives who were at supper; they all fled with the greatest +precipitation at his approach, leaving some fresh sea-eggs, and a fire +ready kindled, behind them, but there was neither house nor hovel near +the place. We observed that although the shoals that lie just within +sight of the coast, abound with shell-fish, which may be easily caught +at low water; yet we saw no such shells about the fire-places on shore. +This day an allegator was seen to swim about us for some time; and at +high water we made another effort to float the ship, which happily +succeeded: We found however that by lying so long with her head +a-ground, and her stern a-float, she had sprung a plank between decks, +a-breast of the main-chains, so that it was become necessary to lay her +ashore again. + +<p>The next morning was employed in trimming her upon an even keel, and in +the afternoon, having warped her over, and waited for high water, we +laid her ashore on the sandbank on the south side of the river; for the +damage she had received already from the great descent of the ground, +made me afraid to lay her broad-side to the shore in the same place from +which we had just floated her. I was now very desirous to make another +trial to come at her bottom, where the sheathing had been rubbed off, +but though she had scarcely four feet water under her, when the tide was +out, yet that part was not dry. + +<p>On the 5th, I got one of the carpenter's crew, a man in whom I could +confide, to go down again to the ship's bottom, and examine the place. +He reported, that three streaks of the sheathing, about eight feet long, +were wanting, and that the main plank had been a little rubbed. This +account perfectly agreed with the report of the master, and others, who +had been under her bottom before: I had the comfort, however, to find +the carpenter of opinion that this would be of little consequence, and +therefore, the other damage being repaired, she was again floated at +high water, and moored alongside the beach, where the stores had been +deposited; we then went to work to take the stores on board, and put her +in a condition for the sea. This day, Mr Banks crossed to the other side +of the harbour, where, as he walked along a sandy beach, he found +innumerable fruits, and many of them such as no plants which he had +discovered in this country produced: Among others were some cocoa-nuts, +which Tupia said had been opened by a kind of crab, which from his +description we judged to be the same that the Dutch call <i>Beurs Krabbe</i>, +and which we had not seen in these seas. All the vegetable substances +which he found in this place were encrusted with marine productions, and +covered with barnacles; a sure sign that they must have come far by sea, +and, as the trade-wind blows right upon the shore, probably from Terra +del Espirito Santo, which has been mentioned already. + +<p>The next morning, Mr Banks, with Lieutenant Gore, and three men, set out +in a small boat up the river, with a view to spend two or three days in +an excursion, to examine the country, and kill some of the animals which +had been so often seen at a distance. + +<p>On the 7th, I sent the master again out to sound about the shoals, the +account which he had brought me of the channel being by no means +satisfactory; and we spent the remainder of this day, and the morning of +the next, in fishing, and other necessary occupations. + +<p>About four o'clock in the afternoon, Mr Banks and his party returned, +and gave us an account of their expedition. Having proceeded about three +leagues among swamps and mangroves, they went up into the country, which +they found to differ but little from what they had seen before: They +pursued their course therefore up the river, which at length was +contracted into a narrow channel, and was bounded, not by swamps and +mangroves, but by steep banks, that were covered with trees of a most +beautiful verdure, among which was that which in the West Indies is +called <i>Mohoe</i>, or the bark tree, the <i>hibiscus tiliaceus</i>; the land +within was in general low, and had a thick covering of long grass: The +soil seemed to be such as promised great fertility to any who should +plant and improve it. In the course of the day, Tupia saw an animal, +which, by his description, Mr Banks judged to be a wolf: They also saw +three other animals, but could neither catch nor kill one of them, and a +kind of bat, as large, as a partridge, but this also eluded all their +diligence and skill. At night, they took up their lodging close to the +banks of the river, and made a fire, but the musquitos swarmed about +them in such numbers, that their quarters were almost untenable: They +followed them into the smoke, and almost into the fire, which, hot as +the climate was, they could better endure than the stings of these +insects, which were an intolerable torment. The fire, the flies, and the +want of a better bed than the ground, rendered the night extremely +uncomfortable, so that they passed it not in sleep, but in restless +wishes for the return of day. With the first dawn they set out in search +of game, and in a walk of many miles, they saw four animals of the same +kind, two of which Mr Banks's greyhound fairly chaced, but they threw +him out at a great distance, by leaping over the long thick grass, which +prevented his running: This animal was observed not to run upon four +legs, but to bound or hop forward upon two, like the <i>Jerbua</i>, or <i>Mus +Jaculus</i>. About noon, they returned to the boat, and again proceeded up +the river, which was soon contracted into a fresh-water brook, where, +however, the tide rose to a considerable height. As evening approached, +it became low water, and it was then so shallow that they were obliged +to get out of the boat and drag her along, till they could find a place +in which they might, with some hope of rest, pass the night. Such a +place at length offered, and while they were getting the things out of +the boat, they observed a smoke at the distance of about a furlong: As +they did not doubt but that some of the natives, with whom they had so +long and earnestly desired to become personally acquainted, were about +the fire, three of the party went immediately towards it, hoping that so +small a number would not put them to flight: When they came up to the +place, however, they found it deserted, and therefore they conjectured, +that before they had discovered the Indians, the Indians had discovered +them. They found the fire still burning, in the hollow of an old tree +that was become touch-wood, and several branches of trees newly broken +down, with which children had been playing: They observed also many +footsteps upon the sand, below high-water mark, which were certain +indications that the Indians had been recently upon the spot. Several +houses were found at a little distance, and some ovens dug in the +ground, in the same manner as those of Otaheite, in which victuals +appeared to have been dressed since the morning; and scattered about +them, lay some shells of a kind of clamm, and some fragments of roots, +the refuse of the meal. After regretting their disappointment, they +repaired to their quarters, which was a broad sand-bank, under the +shelter of a bush. Their beds were plantain leaves, which they spread +upon the sand, and which were as soft as a mattress; their cloaks served +them for bed-clothes, and some bunches of grass for pillows: With these +accommodations they hoped to pass a better night than the last, +especially as, to their great comfort, not a musquito was to be seen. +Here then they lay down, and, such is the force of habit, they resigned +themselves to sleep, without once reflecting upon the probability and +danger of being found by the Indians in that situation. If this appears +strange, let us for a moment reflect, that every danger, and every +calamity, after a time becomes familiar, and loses its effect upon the +mind. If it were possible that a man should first be made acquainted +with his mortality, or even with the inevitable debility and infirmities +of old age, when his understanding had arrived at its full strength, and +life was endeared by the enjoyments of youth, and vigour, and health, +with what an agony of terror and distress would the intelligence be +received! yet, being gradually acquainted with these mournful truths, by +insensible degrees, we scarce know when, they lose all their force, and +we think no more of the approach of old age and death, than these +wanderers of an unknown desert did of a less obvious and certain evil, +the approach of the native savages, at a time when they must have fallen +an easy prey to their malice or their fears. And it is remarkable, that +the greater part of those who have been condemned to suffer a violent +death, have slept the night immediately preceding their execution, +though there is perhaps no instance of a person accused of a capital +crime having slept the first night of his confinement. Thus is the evil +of life in some degree a remedy for itself, and though every man at +twenty deprecates fourscore, almost every man is as tenacious of life at +fourscore as at twenty; and if he does not suffer under any painful +disorder, loses as little of the comforts that remain by reflecting that +he is upon the brink of the grave, where the earth already crumbles +under his feet, as he did of the pleasures of his better days, when his +dissolution, though certain, was supposed to be at a distance.[84] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 84: The reader will receive this hypothetical statement as he +finds it agreeable, or not, to his own experience,--a better guide, in +all probability, than mere philosophy. The writer has his doubts upon +the subject. But let every one judge for himself. For his part, he is +convinced that frequent contemplation of death, though it certainly aids +the mind in reasoning about it, does not lessen the apprehension of it, +but the reverse: so that, did not <i>some peculiar principle</i> come to his +aid, and seem indeed to acquire continually more clearness and +efficiency, his distress or uneasy feeling would be much heightened by +the exercise. But he sees no reason either to expect, or to wish, that +it may be ever otherwise with him; for he is persuaded, that much of +man's dignity and welfare consists in his seeing things just as they +are, without any disguise or delusion; and that whatever death really +is, there is an infallible remedy provided against its greatest terrors, +to which he can always have recourse. So far, on the other hand, as his +observation on others, which has not been small, extends, he would +notice, that, on the whole, young persons die more easily than the aged; +he means, they submit to that event, when really imminent, with more +apparent tranquillity, though, when at a distance, they are much less +disposed either to think or to speak about it. It will not be easy to +reconcile these two facts with the reasoning in the text. But to be +sure, a wider induction is requisite for the establishment of any +theory. This is not the place for it. The instances adduced by Dr H. in +support of his theory, are explicable on another principle, viz. that +every excitement of mind or body is followed by a depression precisely +proportioned to its intensity. This seems a law in our economy, +deducible from almost unlimited observation, and of extreme importance, +both in point of fact, and as a principle for discussion. Before ending +this note, it is suggested to the reader, to consult, on the subjects of +it, his own heart and mind, in preference to all the books ever written, +<i>save one</i>. If that one enforce the dictates promulgated within, and at +the same time minister consolation, he will smile at philosophy, and +gain the best victory over the fear of death. To him then, +notwithstanding every outward difficulty to which he can possibly be +exposed, and all that inward strife and humiliation which he cannot but +experience, the words of Cowper will be expressively applicable:-- + +<pre> +"Therefore in Contemplation is his bliss, +Whose power is such, that whom she lifts from earth +She makes familiar with a heaven unseen, +And shows him glories yet to be revealed." +</pre> + +<p>But this is a mystery!--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Our travellers having slept, without once awaking, till the morning, +examined the river, and finding the tide favoured their return, and the +country promised nothing worthy of a farther search, they re-embarked in +their boat, and made the best of their way to the ship. + +<p>Soon after the arrival of this party, the master also returned, having +been seven leagues out to sea, and he was now of opinion that there was +no getting out where before, he thought there had been a passage: His +expedition, however, was by no means without its advantage; for having +been a second time upon the rock where he had seen the large cockles, he +met with a great number of turtle, three of which he caught, that +together weighed seven hundred and ninety-one pounds, though he had no +better instrument than a boat-hook. + +<p>The next morning, therefore, I sent him out again, with proper +instruments for taking them, and Mr Banks went with him; but the success +did not at all answer our expectations, for, by the unaccountable +conduct of the officer, not a single turtle was taken, nor could he be +persuaded to return: Mr Banks, however, went ashore upon the reef, where +he saw several of the large cockles, and having collected many shells +and marine productions, he returned at eleven o'clock at night in his +own small boat, the master still continuing with the large one upon the +rock. In the afternoon, seven or eight of the natives had appeared on +the south side of the river, and two of them came down to the sandy +point, opposite to the ship; but upon seeing me put off in a boat to +speak with them, they all ran away with the greatest precipitation. + +<p>As the master continued absent with the boat all night, I was forced to +send the second lieutenant for him early the next morning in the yawl; +and soon after, four of the natives appeared upon the sandy point, on +the north side of the river, having with them a small wooden canoe, with +out-riggers: They seemed for some time to be busily employed in striking +fish. Some of our people were for going over to them in a boat, but this +I would by no means permit, repeated experience having convinced me that +it was more likely to prevent, than procure an interview. I was +determined to try what could be done by a contrary method, and +accordingly let them alone, without appearing to take the least notice +of them: This succeeded so well, that at length two of them came in the +canoe within a musket-shot of the ship, and there talked a great deal in +a very loud tone. We understood nothing that they said, and therefore +could answer their harangue only by shouting, and making all the signs +of invitation and kindness that we could devise. During this conference, +they came, insensibly, nearer and nearer, holding up their lances, not +in a threatening manner, but as if to intimate that if we offered them +any injury, they had weapons to revenge it. When they were almost +along-side of us, we threw them some cloth, nails, beads, paper, and +other trifles, which they received without the least appearance of +satisfaction: At last, one of the people happened to throw them a small +fish; at this they expressed the greatest joy imaginable, and +intimating, by signs, that they would fetch their companions, +immediately paddled away towards the shore. In the mean time some of our +people, and among them Tupia, landed on the opposite side of the river. +The canoe, with all the four Indians, very soon returned to the ship, +and came quite along-side, without expressing any fear or distrust. We +distributed some more presents among them, and soon after they left us, +and landed on the same side of the river where our people had gone +ashore: Every man carried in his hand two lances, and a stick, which is +used in throwing them, and advanced to the place where Tupia and the +rest of our people were sitting. Tupia soon prevailed upon them to lay +down their arms, and come forward without them: He then made signs that +they should sit down by him, with which they complied, and seemed to be +under no apprehension or constraint: Several more of us then going +ashore, they expressed some jealousy lest we should get between them and +their arms; we took care, however, to shew them that we had no such +intention, and having joined them, we made them some more presents, as a +farther testimony of our good-will, and our desire to obtain theirs. We +continued together, with the utmost cordiality, till dinner-time, and +then giving them to understand that we were going to eat, we invited +them, by signs, to go with us: This, however, they declined, and as soon +as we left them, they went away in their canoe. One of these men was +somewhat above the middle age, the other three were young; they were in +general of the common stature, but their limbs were remarkably small; +their skin was of the colour of wood soot, or what would be called a +dark chocolate colour; their hair was black, but not woolly; it was +short cropped, in some lank, and in others curled. Dampier says, that +the people whom he saw on the western coast of this country wanted two +of their fore-teeth, but these had no such defect. Some part of their +bodies had been painted red, and the upper-lip and breast of one of them +was painted with streaks of white, which he called <i>Carbanda</i>; their +features were far from disagreeable, their eyes were lively, and their +teeth even and white; their voices were soft and tunable, and they +repeated many words after us with great facility. In the night, Mr Gore +and the master returned with the long-boat, and brought one turtle and a +few shell-fish. The yawl had been left upon the shoal with six men, to +make a farther trial for turtle. + +<p>The next morning, we had another visit from four of the natives; three +of them had been with us before, but the fourth was a stranger, whose +name, as we learnt from his companions who introduced him, was +<i>Yaparico</i>. This gentleman was distinguished by an ornament of a very +striking appearance: It was the bone of a bird, nearly as thick as a +man's finger, and five or six inches long, which he had thrust into a +hole made in the gristle that divides the nostrils. Of this we had seen +one instance, and only one, in New Zealand; but upon examination, we +found that among all these people this part of the nose was perforated, +to receive an ornament of the same kind: They had also holes in their +ears, though nothing was then hanging to them, and had bracelets upon +the upper part of their arms, made of plaited hair; so that, like the +inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, they seem to be fond of ornament, though +they are absolutely without apparel; and one of them, to whom I had +given part of an old shirt, instead of throwing it over any part of his +body, tied it as a fillet round his head. They brought with them a fish, +which they gave us, as we supposed, in return for the fish that we had +given them the day before. They seemed to be much pleased, and in no +haste to leave us; but seeing some of our gentlemen examine their canoe +with great curiosity and attention, they were alarmed, and jumping +immediately into it, paddled away without speaking a word. + +<p>About two the next morning, the yawl, which had been left upon the +shoal, returned, with three turtles and a large skeat. As it seemed now +probable that this fishery might be prosecuted with advantage, I sent +her out again, after breakfast, for a further supply. Soon after, three +Indians ventured down to Tupia's tent, and were so well pleased with +their reception, that one of them went with the canoe to fetch two +others whom we had never seen: When he returned, he introduced the +strangers by name, a ceremony which, upon such occasions, was never +omitted. As they had received the fish that was thrown into their canoe, +when they first approached the ship, with so much pleasure, some fish +was offered to them now, and we were greatly surprised to see that it +was received with the greatest indifference: They made signs, however, +to some of the people, that they should dress it for them, which was +immediately done, but after eating a little of it, they threw the rest +to Mr Banks's dog. They staid with us all the forenoon, but would never +venture above twenty yards from their canoe. We now perceived that the +colour of their skin was not so dark as it appeared, what we had taken +for their complexion, being the effects of dirt and smoke, in which, we +imagined, they contrived to sleep, notwithstanding the heat of the +climate, as the only means in their power to keep off the musquitos. +Among other things that we had given them when we first saw them, were +some medals, which we had hung round their necks by a ribband; and these +ribbands were so changed by smoke, that we could not easily distinguish +of what colour they had been: This incident led us more narrowly to +examine the colour of their skin. While these people were with us, we +saw two others on the point of land that lay on the opposite side of the +river, at the distance of about two hundred yards, and by our glasses +discovered them to be a woman and a boy; the woman, like the rest, being +stark naked. We observed, that all of them were remarkably clean-limbed, +and exceedingly active and nimble. One of these strangers had a necklace +of shells, very prettily made, and a bracelet upon his arm, formed of +several strings, so as to resemble what in England is called gymp: Both +of them had a piece of bark tied over the forehead, and were disfigured +by the bone in the nose. We thought their language more harsh than that +of the islanders in the South Sea, and they were continually repeating +the word <i>chercau</i>, which we imagined to be a term expressing +admiration, by the manner in which it was uttered: They also cried out, +when they saw any thing new, <i>Cher, tut, tut, tut, tut</i>! which probably +had a similar signification. Their canoe was not above ten feel long, +and very narrow, but it was fitted with an outrigger, much like those of +the islands, though in every respect very much inferior: When it was in +shallow water, they set it on with poles, and when in deep, they worked +it with paddles about four feet long: It contained just four people, so +that the people who visited us to-day went away at two turns. Their +lances were like those that we had seen in Botany Bay, except that they +had but a single point, which in some of them was the sting of the ray, +and barbed with two or three sharp bones of the same fish: It was indeed +a most terrible weapon, and the instrument which they used in throwing +it, seemed to be formed with more art than any we had seen before. About +twelve o'clock next day, the yawl returned, with another turtle, and a +large sting-ray, and in the evening, was sent out again. + +<p>The next morning, two of the Indians came on board, but after a short +stay, went along the shore, and applied themselves with great diligence +to the striking of fish. Mr Gore, who went out this day with his gun, +had the good fortune to kill one of the animals which had been so much +the subject of our speculation. This animal is called by the natives +<i>Kangaroo</i>. The next day it was dressed for dinner, and proved most +excellent meat; we might now indeed be said to fare sumptuously every +day, for we had turtle in great plenty, and we all agreed that they were +much better than any we had tasted in England, which we imputed to their +being eaten fresh from the sea, before their natural fat had been +wasted, or their juices changed by a diet and situation so different +from what the sea affords them, as garbage and a tub. Most of those that +we caught here, were of the kind called green turtle, and weighed from +two to three hundred weight, and when these were killed, they were +always found to be full of turtle-grass which our naturalists took to be +a kind of <i>conferva</i>: Two of them were loggerheads, the flesh of which +was much less delicious, and in their stomachs nothing was to be found +but shells. + +<p>In the morning of the 16th, while the people were employed as usual in +getting the ship ready for the sea, I climbed one of the hills on the +north side of the river, from which I had an extensive view of the +inland country, and found it agreeably diversified by hills, vallies, +and large plains, which in many places were richly covered with wood. +This evening, we observed an emersion of Jupiter's first satellite, +which gave 214° 53' 45" of longitude. The observation which was made on +the 29th of June gave 214° 42' 30"; the mean is 214° 48' 7-1/2", the +longitude of this place west of Greenwich. + +<p>On the 17th, I sent the master and one of the mates in the pinnace to +look for a channel to the northward; and I went myself with Mr Banks and +Dr Solander into the woods on the other side of the water. Tupia, who +had been thither by himself, reported, that he had seen three Indians +who had given him some roots about as thick as a man's finger, in shape +not much unlike a radish, and of a very agreeable taste. This induced us +to go over, hoping that we should be able to improve our acquaintance +with the natives; in a very little time we discovered four of them in a +canoe, who, as soon as they saw us, came ashore, and, though they were +all strangers, walked up to us, without any signs of suspicion or fear. +Two of these had necklaces of shells, which we could not persuade them +to part with for any thing we could give them: We presented them however +with some beads, and after a short stay they departed. We attempted to +follow them, hoping that they would conduct us to some place where we +should find more of them, and have an opportunity of seeing their women; +but they made us understand, by signs, that they did not desire our +company. + +<p>At eight o'clock the next morning, we were visited by several of the +natives, who were now become quite familiar. One of them, at our desire, +threw his lance, which was about eight feet-long: It flew with a +swiftness and steadiness that surprised us, and though it was never more +than four feet from the ground, it entered deeply into a tree at fifty +paces distance. After this they ventured on board, where I left them, to +all appearance, much entertained, and went again with Mr Banks to take a +view of the country; but chiefly to indulge an anxious curiosity, by +looking round us upon the sea, of which our wishes almost persuaded us +we had formed an idea more disadvantageous than the truth. After having +walked about seven or eight miles along the shore to the northward, we +ascended a very high hill, and were soon convinced that the danger of +our situation was at least equal to our apprehensions; for in whatever +direction we turned our eyes, we saw rocks and shoals without number, +and no passage out to sea, but through the winding channels between +them, which could not be navigated without the last degree of difficulty +and danger. We returned therefore to the ship, not in better spirits +than when we left it: We found several natives still on board, and we +were told that the turtles, of which we had no less than twelve upon the +deck, had fixed their attention more than any thing else in the ship. + +<p>On the 19th in the morning, we were visited by ten of the natives, the +greater part from the other side of the river, where we saw six or seven +more, most of them women, and, like all the rest of the people we had +seen in this country, they were stark naked. Our guests brought with +them a greater number of lances than they had ever done before, and +having laid them up in a tree, they set a man and a boy to watch them: +The rest then came on board, and we soon perceived that they had +determined to get one of our turtle, which was probably as great a +dainty to them as to us. They first asked us by signs, to give them one; +and being refused, they expressed, both by looks and gestures, great +disappointment and anger. At this time we happened to have no victuals +dressed, but I offered one of them some biscuit, which he snatched and +threw overboard with great disdain. One of them renewed his request to +Mr Banks, and upon a refusal stamped with his foot, and pushed him from +him in a transport of resentment and indignation: Having applied by +turns to almost every person who appeared to have any command in the +ship, without success, they suddenly seized two of the turtles, and +dragged them towards the side of the ship where their canoe lay: Our +people soon forced them out of their hands, and replaced them with the +rest. They would not however relinquish their enterprise, but made +several other attempts of the same kind, in all which being equally +disappointed, they suddenly leaped into their canoe in a rage, and began +to paddle towards the shore. At the same time I went into the boat with +Mr Banks, and five or six of the ship's crew, and we got ashore before +them, where many more of our people were already engaged in various +employments; as soon as they landed, they seized their arms, and before +we were aware of their design, they snatched a brand from under a pitch +kettle which was boiling, and making a circuit to the windward of the +few things we had on shore, they set fire to the grass in their way, +with surprising quickness and dexterity: The grass, which was five or +six feet high, and as dry as stubble, burnt with amazing fury; and the +fire made a rapid progress towards a tent of Mr Banks's, which had been +set up for Tupia when he was sick, taking in its course a sow and pigs, +one of which it scorched to death. Mr Banks leaped into a boat, and +fetched some people from on board, just time enough to save his tent, by +hauling it down upon the beach; but the smith's forge, at least such +part of it as would burn, was consumed. While this was doing, the +Indians went to a place at some distance, where several of our people +were washing, and where our nets, among which was the seine, and a great +quantity of linen, were laid out to dry; here they again set fire to the +grass, entirely disregarding both threats and entreaties. "We were +therefore obliged to discharge a musquet, loaded with small shot, at one +of them, which drew blood at the distance of about forty yards, and this +putting them to flight, we extinguished the fire at this place before it +had made much progress; but where the grass had been first kindled, it +spread into the woods to a great distance. As the Indians were still in +sight, I fired a musquet, charged with ball, abreast of them among the +mangroves, to convince them that they were not yet out of our reach: +Upon hearing the ball they quickened their pace, and we soon lost sight +of them. We thought they would now give us no more trouble; but soon +after we heard their voices in the woods, and perceived that they came +nearer and nearer. I set out, therefore, with Mr Banks and three or four +more, to meet them: When our parties came in sight of each other, they +halted; except one old man, who came forward to meet us: At length he +stopped, and having uttered some words, which we were very sorry we +could not understand, he went back to his companions, and the whole body +slowly retreated. We found means however to seize some of their darts, +and continued to follow them about a mile: We then sat down upon some +rocks, from which we could observe their motions, and they also sat down +at about an hundred yards distance. After a short time, the old man +again advanced towards us, carrying in his hand a lance without a point: +He stopped several times, at different distances, and spoke; we answered +by beckoning and making such signs of amity as we could devise; upon +which the messenger of peace, as we supposed him to be, turned and spoke +aloud to his companions, who then set up their lances against a tree, +and advanced towards us in a friendly manner: When they came up, we +returned the darts or lances that we had taken from them, and we +perceived with great satisfaction that this rendered the reconciliation +complete. We found in this party four persons whom we had never seen +before, who as usual were introduced to us by name; but the man who had +been wounded in the attempt to burn our nets and linen, was not among +them; we knew however that he could not be dangerously hurt, by the +distance at which the shot reached him. We made all of them presents of +such trinkets as we had about us, and they walked back with us towards +the ship: As we went along, they told us, by signs, that they would not +set fire to the grass any more; and we distributed among them some +musquet balls, and endeavoured to make them understand their use and +effect. When they came abreast of the ship, they sat down, but could not +be prevailed upon to come on board; we therefore left them, and in about +two hours they went away, soon after which we perceived the woods on +fire at about two miles distance. If this accident had happened a very +little while sooner, the consequence might have been dreadful; for our +powder had been aboard but a few-days, and the store-tent, with many +valuable things which it contained, had not been removed many hours. We +had no idea of the fury with which grass would burn in this hot climate, +nor consequently of the difficulty of extinguishing it; but we +determined, that if it should ever again be necessary for us to pitch +our tents in such a situation, our first measure should be to clear the +ground round us. + +<p>In the afternoon we got every thing on board the ship, new-birthed her, +and let her swing with the tide; and at night the master returned, with +the discouraging account that there was no passage for the ship to the +northward. + +<p>The next morning, at low water, I went and sounded and buoyed the bar, +the ship being now ready for sea. We saw no Indians this day, but all +the hills round us for many miles were on fire, which at night made a +most striking and beautiful appearance. + +<p>The 21st past without our getting sight of any of the inhabitants, and +indeed without a single incident worth notice. On the 22d, we killed a +turtle for the day's provision, upon opening which we found a wooden +harpoon or turtle-peg, about as thick as a man's finger, near fifteen +inches long, and bearded at the end, such as we had seen among the +natives, sticking through both shoulders: It appeared to have been +struck a considerable time, for the wound had perfectly healed up over +the weapon. + +<p>Early in the morning of the 23d, I sent some people into the country to +gather a supply of the greens which have been before mentioned by the +name of Indian Kale; one of them having straggled from the rest, +suddenly fell in with four Indians, three men and a boy, whom he did not +see, till, by turning short in the wood, he found himself among them. +They had kindled a fire, and were broiling a bird of some kind, and part +of a Kangaroo, the remainder of which, and a cockatoo, hung at a little +distance upon a tree: The man, being unarmed, was at first greatly +terrified; but he had the presence of mind not to run away, judging very +rightly, that he was most likely to incur danger by appearing to +apprehend it; on the contrary, he went and sat down by them, and, with +an air of chearfulness and good humour, offered them his knife, the only +thing he had about him which he thought would be acceptable to them; +they received it, and having handed it from one to the other, they gave +it him again: He then made an offer to leave them; but this they seemed +not disposed to permit: Still however he dissembled his fears, and sat +down again; they considered him with great attention and curiosity, +particularly his clothes, and then felt his hands and face, and +satisfied themselves that his body was of the same texture with their +own. They treated him with the greatest civility, and having kept him +about half an hour, they made signs that he might depart: He did not +wait for a second dismission, but when he left them, not taking the +direct way to the ship, they came from their fire, and directed him; so +that they well knew whence he came. + +<p>In the mean time, Mr Banks, having made an excursion on the other side +of the river to gather plants, found the greatest part of the cloth that +had been given to the Indians lying in a heap together, probably as +useless lumber, not worth carrying away; and perhaps if he had sought +further, he might have found the other trinkets; for they seemed to set +very little value upon any thing we had, except our turtle, which was a +commodity that we were least able to spare. + +<p>The blowing weather, which prevented our attempt to get out to sea, +still continuing, Mr Banks and Dr Solander went out again on the 24th to +see whether any new plant could be picked up: They traversed the woods +all day without success; but as they were returning through a deep +valley, the sides of which, though almost as perpendicular as a wall, +were covered with trees and bushes; they found lying upon the ground +several marking nuts, the <i>Anacardium orientate</i>; these put them upon a +new scent, and they made a most diligent search after the tree that bore +them, which perhaps no European botanist ever saw; but to their great +mortification they could not find it: So that, after spending much time, +and cutting down four or five trees, they returned quite exhausted with +fatigue to the ship. + +<p>On the 25th, having made an excursion up the river, I found a canoe +belonging to our friends the Indians, whom we had not seen since the +affair of the turtle; they had left it tied to some mangroves, about a +mile distant from the ship, and I could see by their fires that they +were retired at least six miles directly inland. + +<p>As Mr Banks was again gleaning the country for his Natural History on +the 26th, he had the good fortune to take an animal of the <i>Opossum</i> +tribe: It was a female, and with, it he took two young ones: It was +found much to resemble the remarkable animal of the kind which Mons. de +Buffon has described in his Natural History by the name of <i>Phalanger</i>, +but it was not the same. Mons. Buffon supposes this tribe to be peculiar +to America, but in this he is certainly mistaken; and probably, as +Pallas has observed in his Zoology, the Phalanger itself is a native of +the East Indies, as the animal which was caught by Mr Banks resembled it +in the extraordinary conformation of the feet, in which it differs from +animals of every other tribe. + +<p>On the 27th, Mr Gore shot a kangaroo, which, with the skin, entrails, +and head, weighed eighty-four pounds. Upon examination, however, we +found that this animal was not at its full growth, the innermost +grinders not being yet formed. We dressed it for dinner the next day; +but to our great disappointment, we found it had a much worse flavour +than that we had eaten before. + +<p>The wind continued in the same quarter, and with the same violence, +till five o'clock in the morning of the 29th, when it fell calm; soon +after a light breeze sprung up from the land, and it being about two +hours ebb, I sent a boat to see what water was upon the bar; in the mean +time we got the anchor up, and made all ready to put to sea. But when +the boat came back, the officer reported that there was only thirteen +feet water upon the bar, which was six inches less than the ship drew. +We were therefore obliged to come to, and the sea breeze setting in +again about eight o'clock; we gave up all hope of sailing that day. + +<p>We had fresh gales at S.E., with hazy weather and rain, till two in the +morning of the 31st, when the weather being something more moderate, I +had thoughts of trying to warp the ship out of the harbour; but upon +going out myself first in the boat, I found it still blow too fresh for +the attempt. During all this time the pinnace and yawl continued to ply +the net and hook with tolerable success; sometimes taking a turtle, and +frequently bringing in from two to three hundred-weight of fish. + +<p>On the 1st of August, the carpenter examined the pumps, and to our great +mortification, found them all in a state of decay, owing, as he said, to +the sap's being left in the wood; one of them was so rotten, as, when +hoisted up, to drop to pieces, and the rest were little better; so that +our chief trust was now in the soundness of our vessel, which happily +did not admit more than one inch of water in an hour. + +<p>At six o'clock in the morning of Friday the 3d, we made another +unsuccessful attempt to warp the ship out of the harbour; but at five +o'clock in the morning of the 4th, our efforts had a better effect, and +about seven we got once more under sail, with a light air from the land, +which soon died away, and was followed by the sea breezes from S.E. by +S., with which we stood off to sea E. by N., having the pinnace a-head, +which was ordered to keep sounding continually. The yawl had been sent +to the turtle bank to take up the net which had been left there; but as +the wind freshened, we got out before her. A little before noon we +anchored in fifteen fathom water, with a sandy bottom, for I did not +think it safe to run in among the shoals till I had well viewed them at +low water from the mast head, which might determine me which way to +steer; for as yet I was in doubt whether I should beat back to the +southward, round all the shoals, or seek a passage to the eastward or +the northward, all which at present appeared to be equally difficult and +dangerous. When we were at anchor, the harbour from which we sailed bore +S. 70 W., distant about five leagues; the northermost point of the main +in sight, which I named <i>Cape Bedford</i>, and which lies in latitude 15° +16' S. longitude 214° 45' W., bore N. 20 W., distant three leagues and a +half; but to the N.E. of this cape we could see land which had the +appearance of two high islands: The turtle banks bore east, distant one +mile; our latitude by observation was 15° 32' S., and our depth of water +in standing off from the land was from three and a half to fifteen +fathom. + +<p>SECTION XXXII. + +<p><i>Departure from Endeavour River; a particular Description of the Harbour +there, in which the Ship was refitted, the adjacent Country, and several +Islands near the Coast; the Range from Endeavour River to the Northern +Extremity of the Country, and the Dangers of that Navigation</i>. + +<p>To the harbour which we had now left, I gave the name of <i>Endeavour +River</i>. It is only a small bar, harbour, or creek, which runs in a +winding channel three or four leagues inland, and at the head of which +there is a small brook of fresh water: There is not depth of water for +shipping above a mile within the bar, and at this distance only on the +north side; where the bank is so steep for near a quarter of a mile, +that a ship may lie afloat at low water, so near the shore as to reach +it with a stage, and the situation is extremely convenient for heaving +down; but at low water the depth upon the bar is not more than nine or +ten feet, nor more than seventeen or eighteen at the height of the tide; +the difference between high and low water, at spring tides, being about +nine feet. At the new and full of the moon it is high water between nine +and ten o'clock: It must also be remembered, that this part of the coast +is so barricaded with shoals, as to make the harbour still more +difficult of access; the safest approach is from the southward, keeping +the main land close upon the board all the way. Its situation may +always be found by the latitude, which has been very accurately laid +down. Over the south point is some high land, but the north point is +formed by a low sandy beach, which extends about three miles to the +northward, where the land begins again to be high. + +<p>The chief refreshment that we procured here was turtle, but as they were +not to be had without going five leagues out to sea, and the weather was +frequently tempestuous, we did not abound with this dainty: What we +caught, as well as the fish, was always equally divided among us all by +weight, the meanest person on board having the same share as myself; and +I think every commander, in such a voyage as this, will find it his +interest to follow the same rule. In several parts of the sandy beaches, +and sand hills near the sea, we found purslain, and a kind of bean that +grows upon a stalk, which creeps along the ground: The purslain we found +very good when it was boiled, and the beans are not to be despised, for +we found them of great service to our sick: The best greens, however, +that could be procured here, were the tops of the coccos, which have +been mentioned already, as known in the West Indies by the name of +<i>Indian kale</i>: These were, in our opinion, not much inferior to +spinnage, which in taste they somewhat resemble; the roots indeed are +not good, but they might probably be meliorated by proper cultivation. +They are found here chiefly in boggy ground. The few cabbage palms that +we met with were in general small, and yielded so little cabbage that +they were not worth seeking. + +<p>Besides the kanguroo and the opossum that have been already mentioned, +and a kind of pole-cat, there are wolves upon this part of the coast, if +we were not deceived by the tracks upon the ground, and several species +of serpents; some of the serpents are venomous, and some harmless: There +are no tame animals here except dogs, and of these we saw but two or +three, which frequently came about the tents to pick up the scraps and +bones that happened to lie scattered near them. There does not indeed +seem to be many of any animal except the kanguroo; we scarcely saw any +other above once, but this we met with almost every time we went into +the woods. Of land-fowls we saw crows, kites, hawks, cockatoos of two +sorts, one white and the other black, a very beautiful kind of +loriquets, some parrots, pigeons of two or three sorts, and several +small birds not known in Europe. The water-fowls are herns, whistling +ducks, which perch, and, I believe, roost upon trees, wild geese, +curlieus, and a few others, but these do not abound. The face of the +country, which has been occasionally mentioned before, is agreeably +diversified by hill and valley, lawn and wood. The soil of the hills is +hard, dry, and stony, yet it produces coarse grass besides wood: The +soil of the plains and vallies is in some places sand, and in some clay; +in some also it is rocky and stony, like the hills; in general, however, +it is well clothed, and has at least the appearance of fertility. The +whole country, both hill and valley, wood and plain, abounds with +anthills, some of which are six or eight feet high, and twice as much in +circumference. The trees here are not of many sorts; the gum tree, which +we found on the southern part of the coast, is the most common, but here +it is not so large: On each side of the river, through its whole course, +there are mangroves in great numbers, which in some places extend a mile +within the coast. The country is in all parts well watered, there being +several fine rivulets at a small distance from each other, but none in +the place where we lay, at least not during the time we were there, +which was the dry season; we were, however, well supplied with water by +springs, which were not far off. + +<p>In the afternoon of the 4th, we had a gentle breeze at S.E., and clear +weather, but as I did not intend to sail till the morning, I sent all +the boats to the reef to get what turtle and shell-fish they could. At +low water I went up to the mast-head and took a view of the shoals, +which made a very threatening appearance: I could see several at a +remote distance, and part of many of them was above water. The sea +appeared most open to the north-east of the turtle reef, and I came to a +resolution to stretch out that way close upon a wind, because, if we +should find no passage, we could always return the way we went. In the +evening, the boats brought in a turtle, a sting-ray, and as many large +cockles as came to about a pound and a half a man, for in each of them +there was not less than two pounds of meat: In the night also we caught +several sharks, which, though not a dainty, were an acceptable increase +of our fresh provision. + +<p>In the morning I waited till half ebb before I weighed, because at that +time the shoals begin to appear, but the wind then blew so hard that I +was obliged to remain at anchor: In the afternoon, however, the gale +becoming more moderate, we got under sail, and stood out upon a wind +N.E. by E., leaving the turtle reef to windward, and having the pinnace +sounding a-head: We had not kept this course long before we discovered +shoals before us, and upon both the bows; and at half an hour after +four, having run about eight miles, the pinnace made the signal for +shoal water, where we little expected it: Upon this we tacked, and stood +on and off, while the pinnace stretched farther to the eastward, and +night approaching, I came to an anchor in twenty fathom water, with a +muddy bottom. Endeavour River then bore S. 52 W.; Cape Bedford W. by N. +1/2 N., distant five leagues; the northermost land in sight, which had +the appearance of an island, N.; and a shoal, a small sandy part of +which appeared above water, bore N.E., distant between two and three +miles: In standing off from turtle reef to this place, we had from +fourteen to twenty fathom water, but when the pinnace was about a mile +farther to the E.N.E., there was no more than four or five feet water, +with rocky ground, and yet this did not appear to us in the ship. In the +morning of the 6th, we had a strong gale, so that instead of weighing, +we were obliged to veer away more cable, and strike our top-gallant +yards. At low water, myself, with several of the officers, kept a +look-out at the mast-head to see if any passage could be discovered +between the shoals, but nothing was in view except breakers, extending +from the S. round by the E. as far as N.W., and out to sea beyond the +reach of our sight; these breakers, however, did not appear to be caused +by one continued shoal, but by several which lay detached from each +other: On that which lay farthest to the eastward, the sea broke very +high, which made me think it was the outermost, for upon many of these +within, the breakers were inconsiderable, and from about half ebb to +half flood, they were not to be seen at all, which makes sailing among +them still more dangerous, especially as the shoals here consist +principally of coral rocks, which are as steep as a wall; upon some of +them, however, and generally at the north end, there are patches of +sand, which are covered only at high water, and which are to be +discerned at some distance. Being now convinced that there was no +passage to sea but through the labyrinth formed by these shoals, I was +altogether at a loss which way to steer, when the weather should permit +us to get under sail. It was the master's opinion that we should beat +back the way we came, but this would have been an endless labour, as the +wind blew strongly from that quarter, almost without intermission; on +the other hand, if no passage could be found to the northward, we should +be compelled to take that measure at last. These anxious deliberations +engaged us till eleven o'clock at night, when the ship drove, and +obliged us to veer away to a cable and one third, which brought her up; +but in the morning, the gale increasing, she drove again, and we +therefore let go the small bower, and veered away to a whole cable upon +it, and two cables on the other anchors, yet she still drove, though not +so fast; we then got down top gallant-gallant-masts, and struck the +yards and topmasts close down, and at last had the satisfaction to find +that she rode. Cape Bedford now bore W.S.W. distant three leagues and a +half, and in this situation we had shoals to the eastward, extending +from the S.E. by S. to the N.N.W., the nearest of which was about two +miles distant. As the gale continued, with little remission, we rode +till seven o'clock in the morning of the 10th, when it being more +moderate, we weighed and stood in for the land, having at length +determined to seek a passage along the shore to the northward, still +keeping the boat a-head: During our run in we had from nineteen to +twelve fathom: After standing in about an hour, we edged away for three +small islands that lay N.N.E. 1/2 E., three leagues from Cape Bedford, +which the master had visited while we were in port. At nine o'clock we +were a-breast of them, and between them and the main: Between us and the +main there was another low island, which lies N.N.W. four miles from the +three islands; and in this channel we had fourteen fathom water. The +northermost point of land in sight now bore N.N.W. 1/2 W., distant about +two leagues. Four or five leagues to the north of this head-land we saw +three islands, near which lay some that were still smaller, and we could +see the shoals and reefs without us, extending to the northward, as far +as these islands: Between these reefs and the headland we directed our +course, leaving to the eastward a small island, which lies N. by E., +distant four miles from the three islands. At noon, we were got between +the headland and the three islands: From the head-land we were distant +two leagues, and from the islands four; our latitude by observation was +14° 51'. We now thought we saw a clear opening before us, and hoped that +we were once more out of danger; in this hope, however, we soon found +ourselves disappointed, and for that reason I called the head-land <i>Cape +Flattery</i>. It lies in latitude 14° 56' S., longitude 214° 43' W., and is +a lofty promontory, making next the sea in two hills, which have a third +behind them, with low sandy ground on each side: It may, however, be +still better known by the three islands out at sea: The northermost and +largest lies about five leagues from the cape, in the direction of +N.N.E. From Cape Flattery the land trends away N.W. and N.W. by W. We +steered along the shore N.W. by W. till one o'clock, for what we thought +the open channel; when the potty officer at the mast-head cried-out that +he saw land a-head, extending quite round to the islands that lay +without us, and a large reef between us and them: Upon this I ran up to +the mast-head myself, from whence I very plainly saw the reef, which was +now so far to windward, that we could not weather it, but the land +a-head, which he had supposed to be the main, appeared to me to be only +a bluster of small islands. As soon as I got down from the mast-head, +the master and some others went up, who all insisted that the land +a-head was not islands, but the main; and, to make their report still +more alarming, they said that they saw breakers all round us. In this +dilemma, we hauled upon a wind in for the land, and made the signal for +the boat that was sounding a-head to come on board, but as she was far +to leeward, we were obliged to edge away to take her up, and soon after +we came to an anchor, under a point of the main, in somewhat less than +five fathom, and at about the distance of a mile from the shore. Cape +Flattery now bore S.E. distant three leagues and a half. As soon as the +ship was at anchor, I went ashore upon the point, which is high, and +afforded me a good view of the sea coast, trending away N.W. by W. eight +or ten leagues, which, the weather not being very clear, was as far as I +could see. Nine or ten small low islands, and some shoals, appeared off +the coast; I saw also some large shoals between the main and the three +high islands, without which, I was clearly of opinion there were more +islands, and not any part of the main. Except the point I was now upon, +which I called <i>Point Lookout</i>, and Cape Flattery, the main-land, to the +northward of Cape Bedford, is low, and chequered with white sand and +green bushes, for ten or twelve miles inland, beyond which it rises to a +considerable height. To the northward of Point Lookout, the coast +appeared to be shoal and flat for a considerable distance, which did not +encourage the hope that the channel we had hitherto found in with the +land would continue. Upon this point, which was narrow, and consisted of +the finest white sand we had ever seen, we discovered the footsteps of +people, and we saw also smoke and fire at a distance up the country. + +<p>In the evening, I returned to the ship, and resolved the next morning to +visit one of the high islands in the offing, from the top of which, as +they lay five leagues out to sea, I hoped to discover more distinctly +the situation of the shoals, and the channel between them. + +<p>In the morning therefore of the 11th, I set out in the pinnace, +accompanied by Mr Banks, whose fortitude and curiosity made him a party +in every expedition, for the northermost and largest of the three +islands, and at the same time I sent the master in the yawl to leeward, +to sound between the low islands and the main. In my way, I passed over +a reef of coral rock and sand, which lies about two leagues from the +island, and I left another to leeward, which lies about three miles from +it: On the north part of the reef, to the leeward, there is a low sandy +island, with trees upon it; and upon the reef which we passed over, we +saw several turtle: We chased one or two, but having little time to +spare, and the wind blowing fresh, we did not take any. + +<p>About one o'clock, we reached the island, and immediately ascended the +highest hill, with a mixture of hope and fear, proportioned to the +importance of our business, and the uncertainty of the event: When I +looked round, I discovered a reef of rocks, lying between two and three +leagues without the islands, and extending in a line N.W. and S.E. +farther than I could see, upon which the sea broke in a dreadful surf: +This however made me think that there were no shoals beyond them, and I +conceived hopes of getting without these, as I perceived several breaks +or openings in the reef, and deep water between that and the islands. I +continued upon this hill till sunset, but the weather was so hazy during +the whole time that I came down much disappointed. After reflecting upon +what I had seen, and comparing the intelligence I had gained with what I +expected, I determined to stay upon the island all night, hoping that +the morning might be clearer, and afford me a more distinct and +comprehensive view. We therefore took up our lodging under the shelter +of a bush which grew upon the beach, and at three in the morning, having +sent the pinnace, with one of the mates whom I had brought out with me, +to sound between the island and the reefs, and examine what appeared to +be a channel through them, I climbed the hill a second time, but to my +great disappointment found the weather much more hazy than it had been +the day before. About noon the pinnace returned, having been as far as +the reef, and found between fifteen and twenty-eight fathom of water; +but it blew so hard that the mate did not dare to venture into one of +the channels, which he said appeared to him to be very narrow: This +however did not discourage me, for I judged, from his description of the +place he had been at, that he had seen it to disadvantage. While I was +busy in my survey, Mr Banks was attentive to his favourite pursuit, and +picked up several plants which he had not before seen. We found the +island, which is visible at twelve leagues distance, to be about eight +leagues in circumference, and in general very rocky and barren. On the +north-west side, however, there are some sandy bays, and some low land, +which is covered with long thin grass, and trees of the same kind with +those upon the main: This part also abounded with lizards of a very +large size, some of which we took. We found also fresh water in two +places: One was a running stream, but that was a little brackish where I +tasted it, which was close to the sea; the other was a standing pool, +close behind the sandy beach, and this was perfectly sweet and good. +Notwithstanding the distance of this island from the main, we saw, to +our great surprise, that it was sometimes visited by the natives; for we +found seven or eight frames of their huts, and vast heaps of shells, the +fish of which we supposed had been their food. We observed that all +these huts were built upon eminences, and entirely exposed to the S.E. +contrary to those which we had seen upon the main; for they were all +built either upon the side of a hill, or under some bushes, which +afforded them shelter from the wind. From these huts, and their +situation, we concluded that at some seasons of the year the weather +here is invariably calm and fine; for the inhabitants have no boat which +can navigate the sea to so great a distance, in such weather as we had +from the time of our first coming upon the coast. As we saw no animals +upon this place but lizards, I called it <i>Lizard Island</i>; the other two +high islands, which lie at the distance of four or five miles from it, +are comparatively small; and near them lie three others smaller still, +and low, with several shoals or reefs, especially to the S.E. There is, +however, a clear passage from Cape Flattery to these islands, and even +quite to the outward reefs, leaving Lizard Island to the N.W. and the +others to the S.E. + +<p>At two in the afternoon, there being no hope of clear weather, we set +out from Lizard Island to return to the ship, and in our way landed upon +the low sandy island with trees upon it, which we had remarked in our +going out. Upon this island we saw an incredible number of birds, +chiefly sea-fowl: We found also the nest of an eagle with young ones, +which we killed; and the nest of some other bird, we knew not what, of a +most enormous size; it was built with sticks upon the ground, and was no +less than six-and-twenty feet in circumference, and two feet eight +inches high. We found also that this place had been visited by the +Indians, probably to eat turtle, many of which we saw upon the island, +and a great number of their shells, piled one upon another in different +places. + +<p>To this spot we gave the name of <i>Eagle Island</i>, and after leaving it, +we steered S.W. directly for the ship, sounding all the way, and we had +never less than eight fathom, nor more than fourteen; the same depth of +water that I had found between this and Lizard Island. + +<p>When I got on board, the master informed me that he had been down to the +low islands, between which and the main I had directed him to sound; +that he judged them to lie about three leagues from the main; that +without them he found from ten to fourteen fathom, and between them and +the main seven: But that a flat, which ran two leagues out from the +main, made this channel narrow. Upon one of these low islands he slept, +and was ashore upon others; and he reported, that he saw every where +piles of turtle-shells; and fins hanging upon the trees in many places, +with the flesh upon them, so recent, that the boats crew eat of them: He +saw also two spots, clear of grass, which appeared to have been lately +dug up, and from the shape and size of them, he conjectured they were +graves. + +<p>After considering what I had seen myself, and the report of the master, +I was of opinion that the passage to leeward would be dangerous, and +that, by keeping in with the main, we should run the risk of being +locked in by the great reef, and at last be compelled to return back in +search of another passage, by which, or any other accident that should +cause the same delay, we should infallibly lose our passage to the East +Indies, and endanger the ruin of the voyage, as we had now but little +more than three months provisions on board at short allowance. + +<p>Having stated this opinion, and the facts and appearances upon which it +was founded, to the officers, it was unanimously agreed, that the best +thing we could do would be to quit the coast altogether, till we could +approach it with less danger. + +<p>In the morning, therefore, at break of day, we got under sail, and stood +out N.E. for the north-west end of Lizard Island, leaving Eagle Island +to windward, and some other islands and shoals to the leeward, and +having the pinnace a-head to ascertain the depth of water in every part +of our course. In this channel we had from nine to fourteen fathom. At +noon, the north-west end of Lizard Island bore E.S.E. distant one mile; +our latitude, by observation, was 14° 38', and our depth of water +fourteen fathom. We had a steady gale at S.E. and by two o'clock we just +fetched to windward of one of the channels or openings in the outer +reef, which I had seen from the island. We now tacked, and made a short +trip to the S.W. while the master, in the pinnace, examined the channel: +He soon made the signal for the ship to follow, and in a short time she +got safe out. As soon as we had got without the breakers, we had no +ground with one hundred and fifty fathom, and found a large sea rolling +in from the S.E. a certain sign that neither land nor shoals were near +us in that direction. + +<p>Our change of situation was now visible in every countenance, for it was +most sensibly felt in every breast: We had been little less than three +months entangled among shoals and rocks, that every moment threatened +us with destruction; frequently passing our nights at anchor within +hearing of the surge that broke over them; sometimes driving towards +them even while our anchors were out, and knowing that if by any +accident, to which an almost continual tempest exposed us, they should +not hold, we must in a few minutes inevitably perish. But now, after +having sailed no less than three hundred and sixty leagues, without once +having a man out of the chains heaving the lead, even for a minute, +which perhaps never happened to any other vessel, we found ourselves in +an open sea, with deep water, and enjoyed a flow of spirits, which was +equally owing to our late dangers and our present security: Yet the very +waves, which by their swell convinced us that we had no rocks or shoals +to fear, convinced us also that we could not safely put the same +confidence in our vessel as before she had struck; for the blows she +received from them so widened her leaks, that she admitted no less than +nine inches water an hour, which, considering the state of our pumps, +and the navigation that was still before us, would have been a subject +of more serious consideration to people whose danger had not so lately +been so much more imminent. + +<p>The passage or channel, through which we passed into the open sea beyond +the reef, lies in latitude 14° 32' S. and may always be known by the +three high islands within it, which I have called the <i>Islands of +Direction</i>, because by these a stranger may find a safe passage through +the reef quite to the main. The channel lies from Lizard Island N.E. 1/2 +N. distant three leagues, and is about one-third of a mile broad, and +not more in length. Lizard Island, which is, as I have before observed, +the largest and the northermost of the three, affords safe anchorage +under the north-west side, fresh water, and wood for fuel. The low +islands and shoals also which lie between it and the main abound with +turtle and fish, which may probably be caught in all seasons of the +year, except when the weather is very tempestuous; so that, all things +considered, there is not perhaps a better place for ships to refresh at +upon the whole coast than this island. And before I dismiss it, I must +observe, that we found upon it, as well as upon the beach in and about +Endeavour River, bamboos, cocoa-nuts, pumice-stone, and the seeds of +plants which are not the produce of this country, and which it is +reasonable to suppose are brought from the eastward by the trade-winds. +The islands which were discovered by Quiros, and called Australia del +Espiritu Santa, lie in this parallel, but how far to the eastward cannot +now be ascertained: In most charts they are placed in the same longitude +with this country, which, as appears by the account of his voyage that +has been published, he never saw; for that places his discoveries no +less than two-and-twenty degrees to the eastward of it.[85] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 85: The islands form part of what is now called New Hebrides. +We shall have occasion to speak of them when we treat of a subsequent +voyage, it is needless to say a word about them at present.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>As soon as we were without the reef, we brought-to, and having hoisted +in the boats, we stood off and on upon a wind all night; for I was not +willing to run to leeward till I had a whole day before me. In the +morning, at daybreak, Lizard Island bore S. 15 E. distant ten leagues, +and we then made sail and stood away N.N.W. 1/2 W. till nine o'clock, +when we stood N.W. 1/2 N. having the advantage of a fresh gale at S.E. +At noon, our latitude, by observation, was I3° 46' S. and at this time +we had no land in sight. At six in the evening we shortened sail and +brought the ship to, with her head to the N.E.; and at six in the +morning made sail and steered west, in order to get within sight of the +land, that I might be sure not to overshoot the passage, if a passage +there was, between this land and New Guinea. At noon, our latitude, by +observation, was 13° 2' S., longitude 216° W.; which was 1° 23' W. of +Lizard Island: At this time we had no land in sight; but a little before +one o'clock, we saw high land from the masthead, bearing W.S.W. At two, +we saw more land to the N.W. of that we had seen before: It appeared in +hills, like islands; but we judged it to be a continuation of the main +land. About three, we discovered breakers between the land and the ship, +extending to the southward farther than we could see; but to the north +we thought we saw them terminate abreast of us. What we took for the end +of them in this direction, however, soon appeared to be only an opening +in the reef; for we presently saw them again, extending northward beyond +the reach of our sight. Upon this we hauled close upon a wind, which was +now at E.S.E. and we had scarcely trimmed our sails before it came to +E. by N. which was right upon the reef, and consequently made our +clearing it doubtful. At sun-set the northermost part of it that was in +sight bore from us N. by E. and was two or three leagues distant; this +however being the best tack to clear it, we kept standing to the +northward with all the sail we could set till midnight; when, being +afraid of standing too far in this direction, we tacked and stood to the +southward, our run from sun-set to this time being six leagues N. and N. +by E. When we had stood about two miles S.S.E. it fell calm. We had +sounded several times during the night, but had no bottom with one +hundred and forty fathom, neither had we any ground now with the same +length of line; yet, about four in the morning, we plainly heard the +roaring of the surf, and at break of day saw it foaming to a vast +height, at not more than a mile's distance. Our distress now returned +upon us with double force; the waves, which rolled in upon the reef, +carried us towards it very fast; we could reach no ground with an +anchor, and had not a breath of wind for the sail. In this dreadful +situation, no resource was left us but the boats; and to aggravate our +misfortune the pinnace was under repair: The long-boat and yawl, +however, were put into the water, and sent a-head to tow, which, by the +help of our sweeps abaft, got the ship's head round to the northward; +which, if it could not prevent our destruction, might at least delay it. +But it was six o'clock before this was effected, and we were not then a +hundred yards from the rock upon which the same billow which washed the +side of the ship, broke to a tremendous height the very next time it +rose; so that between us and destruction there was only a dreary valley, +no wider than the base of one wave, and even now the sea under us was +unfathomable, at least no bottom was to be found with a hundred and +twenty fathom. During this scene of distress the carpenter had found +means to patch up the pinnace, so that she was hoisted out, and sent +a-head, in aid of the other boats, to tow; but all our efforts would +have been ineffectual, if, just at this crisis of our fate, a light air +of wind had not sprung up, so light, that at any other time we should +not have observed it, but which was enough to turn the scale in our +favour, and, in conjunction with the assistance which was afforded us by +the boats, to give the ship a perceptible motion obliquely from the +reef. Our hopes now revived; but in less than ten minutes it was again a +dead calm, and the ship was again driven towards the breakers, which +were not now two hundred yards distant. The same light breeze, however, +returned before we had lost all the ground it had enabled us to gain, +and lasted about ten minutes more. During this time we discovered a +small opening in the reef, at about the distance of a quarter of a mile: +I immediately sent one of the mates to examine it, who reported that its +breadth was not more than the length of the ship, but that within it +there was smooth water: This discovery seemed to render our escape +possible, and that was all, by pushing the ship through the opening, +which was immediately attempted. It was uncertain indeed whether we +could reach it; but if we should succeed thus far, we made no doubt of +being able to get through: In this however we were disappointed, for +having reached it by the joint assistance of our boats and the breeze, +we found that in the mean time it had become high water, and to our +great surprise we met the tide of ebb rushing out of it like a +mill-stream. We gained, however, some advantage, though in a manner +directly contrary to our expectations: We found it impossible to go +through the opening, but the stream that prevented us, carried us out +about a quarter of a mile: It was too narrow for us to keep in it +longer; yet this tide of ebb so much assisted the boats, that by noon we +had got an offing of near two miles. We had, however, reason to despair +of deliverance, even if the breeze, which had now died away, should +revive, for we were still embayed in the reef; and the tide of ebb being +spent, the tide of flood, notwithstanding our utmost efforts, again +drove the ship into the bight. About this time, however, we saw another +opening, near a mile to the westward, which I immediately sent the first +lieutenant, Mr Hicks, in the small boat to examine: In the mean time we +struggled hard with the flood, sometimes gaining a little, and sometimes +losing; but every man still did his duty, with as much calmness and +regularity as if no danger had been near. About two o'clock, Mr Hicks +returned with an account that the opening was narrow and dangerous, but +that it might be passed: The possibility of passing it was sufficient +encouragement to make the attempt, for all danger was less imminent than +that of our present situation. A light breeze now sprung up at E.N.E. +with which, by the help of our boats, and the very tide of flood that +without an opening would have been our destruction, we entered it, and +were hurried through with amazing rapidity, by a torrent that kept us +from driving against either side of the channel, which was not more than +a quarter of a mile in breadth. While we were shooting this gulph, our +soundings were from thirty to seven fathom, very irregular, and the +ground at bottom very foul. + +<p>As soon as we had got within the reef, we anchored in nineteen fathom, +over a bottom of coral and shells. And now, such is the vicissitude of +life, we thought ourselves happy in having regained a situation, which +but two days before it was the utmost object of our hope to quit. Rocks +and shoals are always dangerous to the mariner, even where their +situation has been ascertained; they are more dangerous in seas which +have never before been navigated, and in this part of the globe they are +more dangerous than in any other; for here there are reefs of coral +rock, rising like a wall almost perpendicularly out of the unfathomable +deep, always overflowed at high-water, and at low-water dry in many +places; and here the enormous waves of the vast Southern Ocean, meeting +with so abrupt a resistance, break with inconceivable violence, in a +surf which no rocks or storms in the northern hemisphere can produce. +The danger of navigating unknown parts of this ocean was now greatly +increased by our having a crazy ship, and being short of provisions and +every other necessary; yet the distinction of a first discoverer made us +cheerfully encounter every danger, and submit to every inconvenience; +and we chose rather to incur the censure of imprudence and temerity, +which the idle and voluptuous so liberally bestow upon unsuccessful +fortitude and perseverance, than leave a country which we had discovered +unexplored, and give colour to a charge of timidity and irresolution. + +<p>Having now congratulated ourselves upon getting within the reef, +notwithstanding we had so lately congratulated ourselves upon getting +without it, I resolved to keep the main-land on board in my future route +to the northward, whatever the consequence might be; for if we had now +gone without the reef again, it might have carried us so far from the +coast as to prevent my being able to determine, whether this country +did, or did not, join to New Guinea; a question which I was determined +to resolve from my first coming within sight of land. However, as I had +experienced the disadvantage of having a boat under repair, at a time +when it was possible I might want to use her, I determined to remain +fast at anchor, till the pinnace was perfectly refitted. As I had no +employment for the other boats, I sent them out in the morning to the +reef, to see what refreshments could be procured, and Mr Banks, in his +little boat, accompanied by Dr Solander, went with them. In this +situation I found the variation by amplitude and azimuth to be 4° 9' E.; +and at noon, our latitude by observation was 12° 38' S., and our +longitude 216° 45' W. The main land extended from N. 66 W. to S.W. by +S., and the nearest part of it was distant about nine leagues. The +opening through which we had passed I called <i>Providential Channel</i>; and +this bore E.N.E. distant ten or twelve miles: On the main land within us +was a lofty promontory which I called <i>Cape Weymouth</i>; on the north side +of which is a bay, which I called <i>Weymouth Bay</i>: They lie in latitude +12° 42' S., longitude 217° 15' W. At four o'clock in the afternoon the +boats returned with two hundred and forty pounds of the meat of +shell-fish, chiefly of cockles, some of which were as much as two men +could move, and contained twenty pounds of good meat. Mr Banks also +brought back many curious shells, and <i>Mollusca</i>; besides many +species of coral, among which was that called the <i>Tubipora musica</i>. + +<p>At six o'clock in the morning, we got under sail and stood away to the +N.W., having two boats ahead to direct us; our soundings were very +irregular, varying five or six fathom every cast, between ten and +twenty-seven. A little before noon, we passed a low sandy island, which +we left on our starboard-side, at the distance of two miles. At noon, +our latitude was 12° 28', and our distance from the main about four +leagues: It extended from S. by W. to N. 71 W., and some small islands +from N. 40 W. to 54 W. Between us and the main were several shoals, and +some without us, besides the main or outermost reef, which we could see +from the mast-head, stretching away to the N.E. At two in the afternoon, +as we were steering N.W. by N. we saw a large shoal right ahead, +extending three or four points upon each bow; upon this we hauled up +N.N.E. and N.E. by N. to get round the north point of it, which we +reached by four, and then edged away to the westward, and ran between +the north end of this shoal and another, which lies two miles to the +northward of it, having a boat all the way ahead sounding; our depth of +water was still very irregular, from twenty-two to eight fathom. At half +an hour after six, we anchored in thirteen fathom: The northermost of +the small islands seen at noon bore W. 1/2 S., distant three miles: +These islands, which I distinguished by the name of <i>Forbes's Islands</i>, +lie about five leagues from the main, which here forms a high point that +we called <i>Bolt Head</i>, from which the land trends more westerly, and is +in that direction all low and sandy; to the southward it is high and +hilly even near the sea. + +<p>At six in the morning we got again under sail, and steered for an island +which lay at a small distance from the main, and at this time bore from +us N. 40 W., distant about five leagues: Our course was soon interrupted +by shoals; however, by the help of the boats, and a good look-out from +the top of the mast, we got into a fair channel that led us down to the +island, between a very large shoal on our starboard side and several +small ones towards the main: In this channel we had from twenty to +thirty fathom water. Between eleven and twelve o'clock we hauled round +the north-east side of the island, leaving it between us and the main, +from which it is distant about seven or eight miles. This island is +about a league in circuit, and we saw upon it five of the natives, two +of whom had lances in their hands; they came down upon a point, and +having looked a little while at the ship, retired. To the N.W. of it are +several low islands and quays, which lie not far from the main; and to +the northward and eastward are several other islands and shoals; so that +we were now encompassed on every side: But having lately been exposed to +much greater danger, and rocks and shoals being grown familiar, we +looked at them comparatively with little concern. The main land appeared +to be low and barren, interspersed with large patches of the very fine +white sand, which we had found upon Lizard Island and different parts of +the main. The boats had seen many turtle upon the shoals which they +passed, but it blew too hard for them to take any. At noon, our latitude +by observation was 12°, and our longitude 217° 25': Our depth of water +was fourteen fathom; and our course and distance, reduced to a straight +line, was, between this time and the preceding noon, N. 29 W. +thirty-two miles. + +<p>The main land within the islands that have been just mentioned forms a +point, which I called <i>Cape Grenville</i>: It lies in latitude 11° 58', +longitude 217° 38'; and between it and Bolt Head is a bay, which I +called <i>Temple Bay</i>. At the distance of nine leagues from Cape +Grenville, in the direction of E. 1/2 N. lie some high islands, which I +called <i>Sir Charles Hardy's Isles</i>; and those which lie off the Cape I +called <i>Cockburn's Isles</i>. Having lain by for the boats, which had got +out of their station, till about one o'clock, we then took the yawl in +tow; and the pinnace having got ahead, we filled, and stood N. by W. for +some small islands which lay in that direction; such at least they were +in appearance, but upon approaching them we perceived that they were +joined together by a large reef: Upon this we edged away N.W. and left +them on our starboard hand; we steered between them and the islands that +lay off the main, having a clear passage, and from fifteen to +twenty-three fathom water. At four o'clock, we discovered some low +islands and rocks, bearing W.N.W., and stood directly for them: At half +an hour after six, we anchored on the north-east side of the northermost +of them, at one mile distance, and in sixteen fathom. These islands lie +N.W. four leagues from Cape Grenville, and from the number of birds that +I saw upon them, I called them <i>Bird Isles</i>. A little before sun-set, we +were in sight of the main-land, which appeared all very low and sandy, +extending as far to the northward as N.W. by N., some shoals, quays, and +low sandy isles stretching away to the N.E. + +<p>At six o'clock in the morning, we got again under sail, with a fresh +breeze at E., and stood away N.N.W. for some low islands in that +direction, but were soon obliged to haul close upon a wind to weather a +shoal which we discovered upon our larboard bow, having at the same time +others to the eastward: By the time we had weathered this shoal to +leeward, we had brought the islands well upon our lee-bow, but seeing +some shoals run off from them, and some rocks on our starboard-bow, +which we did not discover till we were very near them, I was afraid to +go to windward of the islands, and therefore brought-to, and having made +the signal for the pinnace, which was ahead, to come on board, I sent +her to leeward of the islands, with orders to keep along the edge of +the shoal, which ran off from the south side of the southermost island, +sending the yawl at the same time, to run over the shoal in search of +turtle. As soon as the pinnace had got to a proper distance, we wore, +and stood after her: As we ran to leeward of this land, we took the yawl +in tow, she having seen only one small turtle, and therefore made but +little stay upon the shoal. The island we found to be a small spot of +sand with some trees upon it, and we could discern many huts, or +habitations of the natives whom we supposed occasionally to visit these +islands from the main, they being only five leagues distant, to catch +turtle, when they come ashore to lay their eggs. We continued to stand +after the pinnace N.N.E. and N. by E. for two other low islands, having +two shoals without us, and one between us and the main. At noon, we were +about four leagues from the main, which we saw extending to the +northward, as far as N.W. by N. all flat and sandy. Our latitude, by +observation, was 11° 23' S. and our longitude 217° 46' W. our soundings +were from fourteen to twenty-three fathom. By one o'clock, we had run +nearly the length of the southermost of the two islands in sight, and +finding that the going to windward of them would carry us too far from +the main, we bore up and ran to leeward, where finding a fair open +passage, we steered N. by W. in a direction parallel to the main, +leaving a small island which lay between it and the ship, and some low +sandy isles and shoals without us, of all which we lost sight by four +o'clock, and saw no more before the sun went down: At this time the +farthest part of the land in sight bore N.N.W. 1/2 W., and soon after we +anchored in thirteen fathom, upon soft ground, at the distance of about +five leagues from the land, where we lay till day-light. + +<p>Early in the morning, we made sail again, and steered N.N.W. by compass, +for the northermost land in sight; and at this time, we observed the +variation of the needle to be 3° 6' E. At eight o'clock, we discovered +shoals ahead, on our larboard bow, and saw that the northermost land, +which we had taken for the main, was detached from it, and that we might +pass between them, by running to leeward of the shoals on our +larboard-bow, which were now near us: We therefore wore and brought-to, +sending away the pinnace and yawl to direct us, and then steered N.W. +along the S.W. or inside of the shoals, keeping a good look-out from the +mast-head, and having another shoal on our larboard-side: We found +however a good channel of a mile broad between them, in which we had +from ten to fourteen fathom. At eleven o'clock, we were nearly the +length of the land detached from the main, and there appeared to be no +obstruction in the passage between them, yet having the long-boat +astern, and rigged, we sent her away to keep in shore upon our larboard +bow, and at the same time dispatched the pinnace a starboard; +precautions which I thought necessary, as we had a strong flood that +carried us an end very fast, and it was near high water: As soon as the +boats were ahead, we stood after them, and by noon got through the +passage. Our latitude, by observation, was then 10° 36', and the nearest +part of the main, which we soon after found to be the northermost, bore +W. 2 S., distant between three or four miles: We found the land which +was detached from the main, to be a single island, extending from N. to +N. 75 E., distant between two and three miles; at the same time we saw +other islands at a considerable distance, extending from N. by W. to +W.N.W., and behind them another chain of high land, which we judged also +to be islands; there were still other islands, extending as far as N. 71 +W., which at this time we took for the main. + +<p>The point of the main which forms the side of the channel through which +we passed, opposite to the island, is the northern promontory of the +country, and I called it <i>York Cape</i>. Its longitude is 218° 24' W., the +latitude of the north point is 10° 37', and of the east point 10° 42' S. +The land over the east point, and to the southward of it, is rather low, +and as far as the eye can reach, very flat, and of a barren appearance. +To the southward of the Cape the shore forms a large open bay, which I +called <i>Newcastle Bay</i>, and in which are some small low islands and +shoals; the land adjacent is also very low, flat, and sandy. The land of +the northern part of the Cape is more hilly, the vallies seem to be well +clothed with wood, and the shore forms some small bays, in which there +appeared to be good anchorage. Close to the eastern point of the Cape +are three small islands, from one of which a small ledge of rocks runs +out into the sea: There is also an island close to the northern point. +The island that forms the streight or channel through which we had +passed, lies about four miles without these, which, except two, are very +small: The southermost is the largest, and much higher than any part of +the main land. On the north-west side of this island there appeared to +be good anchorage, and on shore, vallies that promised both wood and +water. These islands are distinguished in the chart by the name of <i>York +Isles</i>. To the southward, and south-east, and even to the eastward and +northward of them, there are several other low islands, rocks, and +shoals: Our depth of water in sailing between them and the main, was +twelve, thirteen, and fourteen fathom. + +<p>We stood along the shore to the westward, with a gentle breeze at S.E. +by S., and when we had advanced between three and four miles, we +discovered the land ahead, which, when we first saw it, we took for the +main, to be islands detached from it by several channels: Upon this we +sent away the boats, with proper instructions, to lead us through that +channel which was next the main; but soon after discovering rocks and +shoals in this channel, I made a signal for the boats to go through the +next channel to the northward, which lay between these islands, leaving +some of them between us and the main: The ship followed, and had never +less than five fathom water in the narrowest part of the channel, where +the distance from island to island was about one mile and a half. + +<p>At four o'clock in the afternoon, we anchored, being about a mile and a +half, or two miles, within the entrance, in six fathom and a half, with +clear ground: The channel here had begun to widen, and the islands on +each side of us were distant about a mile: The main-land stretched away +to the S.W., the farthest point in view bore S. 48 W., and the +southermost point of the islands, on the north-west side of the passage, +bore S. 76 W. Between these two points we could see no land, so that we +conceived hopes of having, at last, found a passage into the Indian sea; +however, that I might be able to determine with more certainty, I +resolved to land upon the island which lies at the south-east point of +the passage. Upon this island we had seen many of the inhabitants when +we first came to an anchor, and when I went into the boat, with a party +of men, accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, in order to go ashore, +we saw ten of them upon a hill: Nine of them were armed with such lances +as we had been used to see, and the tenth had a bow, and a bundle of +arrows, which we had never seen in the possession of the natives of +this country before: We also observed, that two of them had large +ornaments of mother-of-pearl hanging round their necks. Three of these, +one of whom was the bowman, placed themselves upon the beach abreast of +us, and we expected that they would have opposed our landing, but when +we came within about a musket's shot of the beach, they walked leisurely +away. We immediately climbed the highest hill, which was not more than +three times as high as the mast-head, and the most barren of any we had +seen. From this hill, no land could be seen between the S.W. and W.S.W., +so that I had no doubt of finding a channel through. The land to the +north-west of it consisted of a great number of islands of various +extent, and different heights, ranged one behind another, as far to the +northward and westward as I could see, which could not be less than +thirteen leagues. As I was now about to quit the eastern coast of New +Holland, which I had coasted from latitude 38 to this place, and which I +am confident no European had ever seen before, I once more hoisted +English colours, and though I had already taken possession of several +particular parts, I now took possession of the whole eastern coast, from +latitude 38° to this place, latitude 10 1/2 S. in right of his Majesty +King George the Third, by the name of <i>New South Wales</i>, with all the +bays, harbours, rivers, and islands situated upon it: We then fired +three vollies of small arms, which were answered by the same number from +the ship. Having performed this ceremony upon the island, which we +called <i>Possession Island</i>, we re-embarked in our boat, but a rapid +ebb-tide setting N.E. made our return to the vessel very difficult and +tedious. From the time of our last coming among the shoals, we +constantly found a moderate tide, the flood setting to the N.W. and the +ebb to the S.E. At this place, it is high water at the full and change +of the moon, about one or two o'clock, and the water rises and falls +perpendicularly about twelve feet. We saw smoke rising in many places +from the adjacent lands and islands, as we had done upon every part of +the coast, after our last return to it through the reef. + +<p>We continued at anchor all night, and between seven and eight o'clock in +the morning, we saw three or four of the natives upon the beach +gathering shell-fish; we discovered, by the help of our glasses, that +they were women, and, like all the other inhabitants of this country, +stark naked. At low water, which happened about ten o'clock, we got +under sail, and stood to the S.W. with a light breeze at E. which +afterwards veered to N. by E.: Our depth of water was from six to ten +fathom, except in one place, where we had but five. At noon, Possession +Island bore N. 53 E., distant four leagues, the western extremity of the +main-land in sight bore S. 43 W., distant between four and five leagues, +and appeared to be extremely low, the south-west point of the largest +island on the north-west side of the passage bore N. 71 W., distant +eight miles, and this point I called <i>Cape Cornwall</i>. It lies in +latitude 10° 43'S., longitude 219° W.; and some lowlands that lie about +the middle of the passage, which I called <i>Wallis's Isles</i>, bore W. by +S. 1/2 S., distant about two leagues: Our latitude, by observation, was +10° 46' S. We continued to advance with the tide of flood W.N.W. having +little wind, and from eight to five fathom water. At half an hour after +one, the pinnace, which was a-head, made the signal for shoal-water, +upon which we tacked, and sent away the yawl to sound also: We then +tacked again, and stood after them: In about two hours, they both made +the signal for shoal-water, and the tide being nearly at its greatest +height, I was afraid to stand on, as running aground at that time might +be fatal; I therefore came to an anchor in somewhat less than seven +fathom, sandy ground. Wallis's Islands bore S. by W. 1/2 W., distant +five or six miles, the islands to the northward extended from S. 73 E. +to N. 10 E., and a small island, which was just in sight, bore N.W. 1/2 +W. Here we found the flood-tide set to the westward, and the ebb to the +eastward. + +<p>After we had come to an anchor, I sent away the master in the long-boat +to sound, who, upon his return in the evening, reported that there was a +bank stretching north, and south, upon which there were but three +fathom, and that beyond it there were seven. About this time it fell +calm, and continued so till nine the next morning, when we weighed with +a light breeze at S.S.E.; and steered N.W. by W. for the small island +which was just in sight, having first sent the boats a-head to sound: +The depth of water was eight, seven, six, five, and four fathom, and +three fathom upon the bank, it being now the last quarter ebb. At this +time, the northermost island in sight bore N. 9 E., Cape Cornwall E., +distant three leagues, and Wallis's Isles S. 3 E., distant three +leagues. This bank, at least so much as we have sounded, extends nearly +N. and S., but to what distance I do not know: Its breadth is not more +than half a mile at the utmost. When we had got over the bank, we +deepened our water to six fathom three quarters, and had the same depth +all the way to the small island a-head, which we reached by noon, when +it bore S., distant about half a mile. Our depth of water was now five +fathom, and the northermost land in sight, which is part of the same +chain of islands that we had seen to the northward from the time of our +first entering the streight, bore N. 71 E. Our latitude by observation +was 10° 33' S., and our longitude 219° 22' W.: In this situation no part +of the main was in sight. As we were now near the island, and had but +little wind, Mr Banks and I landed upon it, and found it, except a few +patches of wood, to be a barren rock, the haunt of birds, which had +frequented it in such numbers as to make the surface almost uniformly +white with their dung: Of these birds the greater part seemed to be +boobies, and I therefore called the place <i>Booby Island</i>. After a short +stay, we returned to the ship, and in the mean time the wind had got to +the S.W.; it was but a gentle breeze, yet it was accompanied by a swell +from the same quarter, which, with other circumstances, confirmed my +opinion that we were got to the westward of Carpentaria, or the northern +extremity of New Holland, and had now an open sea to the westward, which +gave me great satisfaction, not only because the dangers and fatigues of +the voyage were drawing to an end, but because it would no longer be a +doubt whether New Holland and New Guinea were two separate islands, or +different parts of the same.[86] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 86: Here it may be proper to introduce a paragraph from M. +Peron's Historical Relation of a Voyage of Discovery to the Southern +Islands, as presented to the Imperial Institute in June 1806. It will +show his conception of the difficulties attendant on navigating these +parts: "In fact, it is not in voyages on the high seas, however long +they may be, that adverse circumstances or shipwrecks are so much to be +dreaded; those, on the contrary, along unknown shores and barbarous +coasts, at every instant present new difficulties to encounter, with +perpetual dangers. Those difficulties and dangers, the woeful appendage +of all expeditions begun for the purposes of geographic detail, were of +more imminent character from the nature of the coasts we had to explore; +for no country has hitherto been discovered more difficult to +reconnoitre than New Holland, and all the voyages of any extent made for +the purpose in this point, have been marked either by reverses or +infructuous attempts. For example, Paliser on the western coast was one +of the first victims of these shores; Vlaming speaks of wrecks by which +Rottnest island was covered when he landed there in 1697; and we +ourselves observed others of much more recent date. Captain Dampier, +notwithstanding his intrepidity and experience, could not preserve his +vessel from grounding when on the northwest coast of this continent, a +coast already famous for the shipwreck of Vianin; on the east, +Bougainville, menaced with destruction, was constrained to precipitate +flight; Cook escaped by a kind of miracle, the rock which pierced his +ship remaining in the breach it made, and alone preventing it from +sinking; on the south-west, Vancouver and D'Entrecasteaux were not more +fortunate in their several plans of completing its geography, and the +French admiral nearly lost both his ships. Towards the south, but a few +years have elapsed since the discovery of Bass's Straits, and already +the major part of the islands of this strait is strewed with the wrecks +of ships; very recently, and almost before our face, I may say, the +French ship Enterprize was dashed to pieces against the dangerous +islands which close its eastern opening. The relation of our voyage, and +the dangers incurred, will still farther demonstrate the perils of this +navigation; and the loss of the two vessels of Captain Flinders, sent by +the English government to compete with us, will but too clearly furnish +a new and lamentable evidence. The circumstance of Cook's escape, we +see, is allowed its due impression on the mind of this gentleman. It is +very probable that had Dr Hawkesworth himself ever been in such critical +perils, and experienced any thing like such a remarkable deliverance, +the placidity of his principles would have given way to more lively +emotions. The deductions of reason, it is certain, are not unusually at +variance with the instantaneous, but perhaps more real and genuine +productions of our feelings, which it is the cant of modern days to +denominate the lower parts of our constitution.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The north-east entrance of this passage or streight lies in the latitude +of 10° 39' S., and in the longitude of 218° 36' W. It is formed by the +main, or the northern extremity of New Holland, on the S.E., and by a +congeries of islands, which I called the <i>Prince of Wales's Islands</i>, to +the N.W., and it is probable that these islands extend quite to New +Guinea. They differ very much both in height and circuit, and many of +them seemed to be well clothed with herbage and wood: Upon most, if not +all of them, we saw smoke, and therefore there can be no doubt of their +being inhabited: It is also probable, that among them there are at least +as good passages as that we came through, perhaps better, though better +would not need to be desired, if the access to it from the eastward were +less dangerous: That a less dangerous access may be discovered, I think +there is little reason to doubt, and to find it, little more seems to be +necessary than to determine how far the principal, or outer reef, which +bounds the shoals to the eastward, extends towards the north, which I +would not have left to future navigators if I had been less harassed by +danger and fatigue, and had had a ship in better condition for the +purpose. + +<p>To this channel, or passage, I have given the name of the ship, and +called it <i>Endeavour Streights</i>. Its length from N.E. to S.W. is ten +leagues, and it is about five leagues broad, except at the north-east +entrance, where it is somewhat less than two miles, being contracted by +the islands which lie there. That which I called Possession Island is of +a moderate height and circuit, and this we left between us and the main, +passing between it and two small round islands which lie about two miles +to the N.W. of it. The two small islands, which I called Wallis's +Islands, lie in the middle of the south-west entrance, and these we left +to the southward. Our depth of water in the streight was from four to +nine fathom, with every where good anchorage, except upon the bank, +which lies two leagues to the northward of Wallis's Islands, where at +low water there are but three fathom: For a more particular knowledge of +this streight, and of the situations of the several islands and shoals +on the eastern coast of New Wales, I refer to the chart where they are +delineated with all the accuracy that circumstances would admit; yet, +with respect to the shoals, I cannot pretend that one half of them are +laid down, nor can it be supposed possible that one half of them should +be discovered in the course of a single navigation: Many islands also +must have escaped my pencil, especially between latitude 20° and 22°, +where we saw islands out at sea as far as an island could be +distinguished; it must not therefore be supposed, by future navigators, +that where no shoal or island is laid down in my chart, no shoal or +island will be found in these seas: It is enough that the situation of +those that appear in the chart is faithfully ascertained, and, in +general, I have the greatest reason to hope that it will be found as +free from error as any that has not been corrected by subsequent and +successive observations. The latitudes and longitudes of all, or most of +the principal head-lands and bays, may be confided in, for we seldom +failed of getting an observation once at least every day, by which to +correct the latitude of our reckoning, and observations for settling the +longitude were equally numerous, no opportunity that was offered by the +sun and moon being suffered to escape. It would be injurious to the +memory of Mr Green, not to take this opportunity of attesting that he +was indefatigable both in making observations and calculating upon them; +and that, by his instructions and assistance, many of the petty officers +were enabled both to observe and calculate with great exactness. This +method of finding the longitude at sea may be put into universal +practice, and may always be depended upon within half a degree, which is +sufficient for all nautical purposes. If, therefore, observing and +calculating were considered as necessary qualifications for every sea +officer, the labours of the speculative theorist to solve this problem +might be remitted, without much injury to mankind: Neither will it be so +difficult to acquire this qualification, or put it in practice, as may +at first appear; for, with the assistance of the nautical almanack, and +astronomical ephemeris, the calculations for finding the longitude will +take up little more time than the calculation of an azimuth for finding +the variation of the compass.[87] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 87: Reference is made above to Cook's large chart, which of +course could not be given here with advantage corresponding to the +expence of engraving it. This omission is of less moment, as the chart +that accompanies the work is quite sufficient for general readers; and +as any additional one that may be afterwards given, must derive much of +its value from the labours of Cook. Important aids have been afforded +the navigator since the date of this publication; and the two great +problems in nautical astronomy, viz. the deducing the longitude from +lunar distances, and the latitude from two altitudes of the sun, have +been brought within the reach of every one who is in full possession of +elementary arithmetic. See a Collection of Tables for those important, +purposes, by Joseph de Mendoza Rios, published at London, 1806,--an +account of which is given in the Edinburgh Review, vol. viii. p. 451.]--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION XXXIII. + +<p><i>Departure from New South Wales; a particular Description of the +Country, its Products, and People: A Specimen of the Language, and some +Observations upon the Currents and Tides</i>.[88] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 88: All these particulars will be more fully illustrated +hereafter. The present account is certainly imperfect, but it has its +value; and it could not have been omitted without some disparagement to +the original work, and some loss of interest to the reader. It is worth +while to possess all the histories, and more especially the original +ones, of a country like New Holland, which, its extent, position, and +nature, as well as some peculiar contingencies, are likely to render +more and more conspicuous in the records of mankind. There is another +reason for wishing to retain the account now given, and which would not +apply to any equally imperfect one of any other country or people where +civilization had made greater progress. Dr Robertson, referring to this +very description, says, "This perhaps is the country where man has been +discovered in the earliest stage of his progress, and it exhibits a +miserable specimen of his condition and powers in the uncultivated +state. If this country shall be more fully explored by future +navigators, the comparison of the manners of its inhabitants, with those +of the Americans, will prove an instructive article in the history of +the human species,"--Note 33, in the ninth volume of his works. What was +held as a desideratum by this historian, has been accomplished in so far +as additional materials are concerned: How far it has been so in a +philosophical point of view, may be afterwards considered.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Of this country, its products and its people, many particulars have +already been related in the course of the narrative, being so interwoven +with the events as not to admit of a separation. I shall now give a more +full and circumstantial description of each, in which, if some things +should happen to be repeated, the greater part will be found new. New +Holland, or, as I have now called the eastern coast, New South Wales, is +of a larger extent than any other country in the known world that does +not bear the name of a continent: The length of coast along which we +sailed, reduced to a straight line, is no less than twenty-seven degrees +of latitude, amounting to near 2000 miles, so that its square surface +must be much more than equal to all Europe. To the southward of 33 or +34, the land in general is low and level; farther northward it is hilly, +but in no part can be called mountainous; and the hills and mountains, +taken together, make but a small part of the surface, in comparison with +the vallies and plains. It is, upon the whole, rather barren than +fertile, yet the rising ground is chequered by woods and lawns, and the +plains and vallies are in many places covered with herbage: The soil, +however, is frequently sandy, and many of the lawns, or savannahs, are +rocky and barren, especially to the northward, where, in the best spots, +vegetation was less vigorous than in the southern part of the country; +the trees were not so tall, nor was the herbage so rich. The grass in +general is high, but thin, and the trees, where they are largest, are +seldom less than forty feet asunder; nor is the country inland, as far +as we could examine it, better clothed than the sea coast. The banks of +the bays are covered with mangroves to the distance of a mile within the +beach, under which the soil is a rank mud, that is always overflowed by +a spring tide; farther in the country we sometimes met with a bog, upon +which the grass was very thick and luxuriant, and sometimes with a +valley that was clothed with underwood: The soil in some parts seemed to +be capable of improvement, but the far greater part is such as can admit +of no cultivation. The coast, at least that part of it which lies to the +northward of 25° S., abounds with fine bays and harbours, where vessels +may lie in perfect security from all winds. + +<p>If we may judge by the appearance of the country while we were there, +which was in the very height of the dry season, it is well watered. We +found innumerable small brooks and springs, but no great rivers; these +brooks, however, probably become large in the rainy season. Thirsty +Sound was the only place where fresh water was not to be procured for +the ship, and even there, one or two small pools were found in the +woods, though the face of the country was every where intersected by +salt-creeks and mangrove-land. + +<p>Of trees there is no great variety. Of those that could be called +timber, there are but two sorts; the largest is the gum-tree, which +grows all over the country, and has been mentioned already: It has +narrow leaves, not much unlike a willow; and the gum, or rather resin, +which it yields, is of a deep red, and resembles the <i>sanguis draconis</i>; +possibly it may be the same, for this substance is known to be the +produce of more than one plant. It is mentioned by Dampier, and is +perhaps the same that Tasman found upon Diemen's Land, where he says he +saw "gum of the trees, and gum lac of the ground." The other timber +tree is that which grows somewhat like our pines, and has been +particularly mentioned in the account of Botany Bay. The wood of both +these trees, as I have before remarked, is extremely hard and heavy. +Besides these, here are trees covered with a soft bark that is easily +peeled off, and is the same that in the East Indies is used for the +caulking of ships. + +<p>We found here the palm of three different sorts. The first, which grows +in great plenty to the southward, has leaves that are plaited like a +fan: The cabbage of these is small, but exquisitely sweet; and the nuts, +which it bears in great abundance, are very good food for hogs. The +second sort bore a much greater resemblance to the true cabbage-tree of +the West Indies: Its leaves were large and pinnated, like those of the +cocoa-nut; and these also produced a cabbage, which, though not so sweet +as the other, was much larger. The third sort, which, like the second, +was found only in the northern parts, was seldom more than ten feet +high, with small pinnated leaves, resembling those of some kind of fern: +It bore no cabbage, but a plentiful crop of nuts, about the size of a +large chesnut, but rounder. As we found the hulls of these scattered +round the places where the Indians had made their fires, we took for +granted that they were fit to eat; those however who made the experiment +paid dear for their knowledge of the contrary, for they operated both as +an emetic and cathartic with great violence. Still, however, we made no +doubt but that they were eaten by the Indians; and judging that the +constitution of the hogs might be as strong as theirs, though our own +had proved to be so much inferior, we carried them to the stye: The hogs +eat them, indeed, and for some time we thought without suffering any +inconvenience; but in about a week they were so much disordered that two +of them died, and the rest were recovered with great difficulty. It is +probable, however, that the poisonous quality of these nuts may lie in +the juice, like that of the cassada of the West Indies; and that the +pulp, when dried, may be not only wholesome, but nutricious. Besides +these species of the palm, and mangroves, there were several small trees +and shrubs altogether unknown in Europe; particularly one which produced +a very poor kind of fig; another that bore what we called a plum, which +it resembled in colour, but not in shape, being flat on the sides like a +little cheese; and a third that bore a kind of purple apple, which, +after it had been kept a few days, became eatable, and tasted somewhat +like a damascene. + +<p>Here is a great variety of plants to enrich the collection of a +botanist, but very few of them are of the esculent kind. A small plant, +with long, narrow, grassy leaves, resembling that kind of bulrush which +in England is called the Cat's-tail, yields a resin of a bright yellow +colour, exactly resembling gambouge, except that it does not stain: It +has a sweet smell, but its properties we had no opportunity to discover, +any more than those of many others with which the natives appear to be +acquainted, as they have distinguished them by names. + +<p>I have already mentioned the root and leaves of a plant resembling the +coccos of the West Indies, and a kind of bean; to which may be added, a +sort of parsley and purselain, and two kinds of yams; one shaped like a +radish, and the other round, and covered with stringy fibres: Both sorts +are very small, but sweet; and we never could find the plants that +produced them, though we often saw the places where they had been newly +dug up: It is probable that the drought had destroyed the leaves, and we +could not, like the Indians, discover them by the stalks. + +<p>Most of the fruits of this country, such as they are, have been +mentioned already. We found one in the southern part of the country +resembling a cherry, except that the stone was soft; and another not +unlike a pine-apple in appearance, but of a very disagreeable taste, +which is well known in the East Indies, and is called by the Dutch <i>Pyn +Appel Boomen</i>. + +<p>Of the quadrupeds, I have already mentioned the dog, and particularly +described the kangaroo, and the animal of the opossum kind, resembling +the phalanger of Buffon; to which I can add only one more, resembling a +pole-cat, which the natives call <i>Quoll</i>: The back is brown, spotted +with white, and the belly white unmixed. Several of our people said they +had seen wolves; but perhaps, if we had not seen tracks that favoured +the account, we might have thought them little more worthy of credit +than he who reported that he had seen the devil. + +<p>Of batts, which hold a middle place between the beasts and the birds, we +saw many kinds, particularly one which, as I have observed already, was +larger than a partridge: We were not fortunate enough to take one either +alive or dead, but it was supposed to be the same as Buffon has +described by the name of <i>Rouset</i> or <i>Rouget</i>. + +<p>The sea and other water-fowl of this country, are gulls, shags, soland +geese, or gannets, of two sorts, boobies, noddies, curlieus, ducks, +pelicans of an enormous size, and many others. The land-birds, are +crows, parrots, paroquets, cockatoos, and other birds of the same kind, +of exquisite beauty; pigeons, doves, quails, bustards, herons, cranes, +hawks, and eagles. The pigeons flew in numerous flocks, so that, +notwithstanding their extreme shyness, our people frequently killed ten +or twelve of them in a day: These birds are very beautiful, and crested +very differently from any we had seen before. + +<p>Among other reptiles, here are serpents of various kinds, some noxious, +and some harmless; scorpions, centipieds, and lizards. The insects are +but few. The principal are the musquito and the ant. Of the ant there +are several sorts; some are as green as a leaf, and live upon trees, +where they build their nests of various sizes, between that of a man's +head and his fist. These nests are of a very curious structure: They are +formed by bending down several of the leaves, each of which is as broad +as a man's hand, and gluing the points of them together, so as to form a +purse; the viscus used for this purpose is an animal juice, which Nature +has enabled them to elaborate. Their method of first bending down the +leaves, we had not an opportunity to observe; but we saw thousands +uniting all their strength to hold them in this position, while other +busy multitudes were employed within, in applying the gluten that was to +prevent their returning back. To satisfy ourselves that the leaves were +bent, and held down by the effort of these diminutive artificers, we +disturbed them in their work, and as soon as they were driven from their +station, the leaves on which they were employed sprung up with a force +much greater than we could have thought them able to conquer by any +combination of their strength. But though we gratified our curiosity at +their expence, the injury did not go unrevenged; for thousands +immediately threw themselves upon us, and gave us intolerable pain with +their stings, especially those who took possession of our necks and our +hair, from whence they were not easily driven: The sting was scarcely +less painful than that of a bee; but, except it was repeated, the pain +did not last more than a minute. + +<p>Another sort are quite black, and their operations and manner of life +are not less extraordinary. Their habitations are the inside of the +branches of a tree, which they contrive to excavate by working out the +pith almost to the extremity of the slenderest twig; the tree at the +same time flourishing, as if it had no such inmate. When we first found +the tree, we gathered some of the branches, and were scarcely less +astonished than we should have been to find that we had prophaned a +consecrated grove, where every tree, upon being wounded, gave signs of +life; for we were instantly covered with legions of these animals, +swarming from every broken bough, and inflicting their stings with +incessant violence. They are mentioned by Rumphius in his <i>Herbarium +Amboinense</i>, vol. ii. p. 257; but the tree in which he saw their +dwelling is very different from that in which we found them. + +<p>A third kind we found nested in the root of a plant, which grows on the +bark of trees in the manner of misletoe, and which they had perforated +for that use. This root is commonly as big as a large turnip, and +sometimes much bigger: When we cut it, we found it intersected by +innumerable winding passages, all filled with these animals, by which, +however, the vegetation of the plant did not appear to have suffered any +injury. We never cut one of these roots that was not inhabited, though +some were not bigger than a hazle nut. The animals themselves are very +small, not more than half as big as the common red ant in England. They +had stings, but scarcely force enough to make them felt: They had, +however, a power of tormenting us in an equal, if not a greater degree; +for the moment we handled the root, they swarmed from innumerable holes, +and running about those parts of the body that were uncovered, produced +a titillation more intolerable than pain, except it is increased to +great violence. Rumphius has also given an account of this bulb and its +inhabitants, vol. vi. p. 120, where he mentions another sort that are +black. + +<p>We found a fourth kind, which are perfectly harmless, and almost exactly +resemble the white ants of the East Indies: The architecture of these is +still more curious than that of the others. They have houses of two +sorts; one is suspended on the branches of trees, and the other erected +upon the ground: Those upon the trees are about three or four times as +big as a man's head, and are built of a brittle substance, which seems +to consist of small part of vegetables kneaded together with a glutinous +matter, which their bodies probably supply. Upon breaking this crust, +innumerable cells, swarming with inhabitants, appear in a great variety +of winding directions, all communicating with each other, and with +several apertures that lead to other nests upon the same tree; they have +also one large avenue, of covered way, leading to the ground, and +carried on under it to the other nest or house that is constructed +there. This house is generally at the root of a tree, but not of that +upon which their other dwellings are constructed: It is formed like an +irregularly sided cone, and sometimes is more than six feet high, and +nearly as much in diameter. Some are smaller, and these are generally +flat-sided, and very much resemble in figure the stones which are seen +in many parts of England, and supposed to be the remains of druidical +antiquity. The outside of these is of well-tempered clay, about two +inches thick; and within are the cells, which have no opening outwards, +but communicate only with the subterranean way to the houses on the +tree, and to the tree near which they are constructed, where they ascend +up the root, and so up the trunk and branches, under covered ways of the +same kind as those by which they descended from their other dwellings. +To these structures on the ground they probably retire in the winter, or +rainy seasons, as they are proof against any wet that can fall, which +those in the tree, though generally constructed under some overhanging +branch, from the nature and thinness of their crust or wall, cannot +be.[89] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 89: There are upwards of twenty species of ants known, which +differ from one another in several respects, but more especially in the +materials and construction of their habitations. Some employ earth, +others the leaves and bark of trees, and others again prefer straw; +whilst another species, as is mentioned above, occupy the central parts +of trees. Their manners too are very different, though all, in various +degrees, no doubt, manifest very remarkable instinctive wisdom, and, if +the expression be allowable, even acquired knowledge. The reader who is +desirous of minute and most instructive information on the subject of +these sagacious animals, will do well to consult the Edinburgh Review, +vol. xx. page 143, &c. where an account is given of Mr Huber's +observations and experiments respecting them. A single extract from the +Review may prove interesting to the reader who has not the convenience +of referring to the volume. "The accounts of these same animals, in +other climates, sufficiently shew what formidable power they acquire +when the efforts of numbers are combined. Mr Malovat mentions, in his +account of his travels through the forest of Guyana, his arriving at a +savannah, extending in a level plain beyond the visible horizon, and in +which he beheld a structure that appeared to have been raised by human +industry. M. de Prefontaine, who accompanied him in the expedition, +informed him that it was an ant-hill, which they could not approach +without danger of being devoured. They passed some of the paths +frequented by the labourers, which belonged to a very large species of +black ants. The nest they had constructed, which had the form of a +truncated pyramid, appeared to be from fifteen to twenty feet in height, +on a base of thirty or forty feet. He was told that when the new +settlers, in their attempt to clear the country, happened to meet with +any of these fortresses, they were obliged to abandon the spot, unless +they could muster sufficient forces to lay regular siege to the enemy. +This they did by digging a circular trench all round the nest, and +filling it with a large quantity of dried wood, to the whole of which +they fire at the same time, by lighting it in different parts all round +the circumference. While the entrenchments are blazing, the edifice may +be destroyed by firing at it with cannon; and the ants being by this +means dispersed, have no avenue for escape except through the flames, in +which they perish." It might be worthy the attention of philosophers to +enquire, what general purposes in the economy of Nature these +wonder-working animals accomplish. The labours of certain other +creatures, there is every reason to believe, are destined to raise up +habitable islands in various parts of the ocean. May not these small +architects be employed in fitting certain soils for the growth of +vegetable substances? There seems, indeed, to exist in our world a +living spirit, or principle, continually operating in the production of +creatures, and places suitable for them, to compensate the loss of those +which an irrevocable law of the great Fabricator has doomed to +successive destruction, as if He chose to manifest the glory of His +wisdom and power, by creating new existences, rather than by preserving +the old ones.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The sea in this country is much more liberal of food to the inhabitants +than the land; and though fish is not quite so plenty here as they +generally are in higher latitudes, yet we seldom hauled the seine +without taking from fifty to two hundred weight. They are of various +sorts; but, except the mullet, and some of the shell-fish, none of them +are known in Europe: Most of them are palatable, and some are very +delicious. Upon the shoals and reef there are incredible numbers of the +finest green turtle in the world, and oysters of various kinds, +particularly the rock-oyster and the pearl-oyster. The gigantic cockles +have been mentioned already; besides which, there are sea-crayfish, or +lobsters, and crabs: Of these, however, we saw only the shells. In the +rivers and salt creeks there are aligators. + +<p>The only person who has hitherto given any account of this country or +its inhabitants is Dampier, and though he is, in general, a writer of +credit, yet in many particulars he is mistaken. The people whom he saw +were indeed inhabitants of a part of the coast very distant from that +which we visited; but we also saw inhabitants upon parts of the coast +very distant from each other, and there being a perfect uniformity in +person and customs among them all, it is reasonable to conclude, that +distance in another direction has not considerably broken it. + +<p>The number of inhabitants in this country appears to be very small in +proportion to its extent. We never saw so many as thirty of them +together but once, and that was at Botany Bay, when men, women, and +children, assembled upon a rock to see the ship pass by: When they +manifestly formed a resolution to engage us, they never could muster +above fourteen or fifteen fighting men; and we never saw a number of +their sheds or houses together that could accommodate a larger party. It +is true, indeed, that we saw only the sea-coast on the eastern side; and +that, between this and the western shore, there is an immense tract of +country wholly unexplored: But there is great reason to believe that +this immense tract is either wholly desolate, or at least still more +thinly inhabited than the parts we visited. It is impossible that the +inland country should subsist inhabitants at all seasons without +cultivation; it is extremely improbable that the inhabitants of the +coast should be totally ignorant of arts of cultivation, which were +practised inland; and it is equally improbable that, if they knew such +arts, there should be no traces of them among them. It is certain that +we did not see one foot of ground in a state of cultivation in the whole +country; and therefore it may well be concluded that where the sea does +not contribute to feed the inhabitants, the country is not inhabited. + +<p>The only tribe with which we had any intercourse, we found where the +ship was careened; it consisted of one-and-twenty persons; twelve men, +seven women, one boy, and one girl: The women we never saw but at a +distance; for when the men came over the river they were always left +behind. The men here, and in other places, were of a middle size, and in +general well-made, clean-limbed, and remarkably vigorous, active, and +nimble: Their countenances were not altogether without expression, and +their voices were remarkably soft and effeminate. + +<p>Their skins were so uniformly covered with dirt, that it was very +difficult to ascertain their true colour: We made several attempts, by +wetting our fingers and rubbing it, to remove the incrustations, but +with very little effect. With the dirt they appear nearly as black as a +negro; and according to our best discoveries, the skin itself is of the +colour of wood-soot, or what is commonly called a chocolate-colour. +Their features are far from being disagreeable, their noses are not +flat, nor are their lips thick; their teeth are white and even, and +their hair naturally long and black, it is however universally cropped +short; in general it is straight, but sometimes it has a slight curl; we +saw none that was not matted and filthy, though without oil or grease, +and to our great astonishment free from lice. Their beards were of the +same colour with their hair, and bushy and thick: They are not however +suffered to grow long. A man whom we had seen one day with his beard +somewhat longer than his companions, we saw the next, with it somewhat +shorter, and upon examination found the ends of the hairs burnt: From +this incident, and our having never seen any sharp instrument among +them, we concluded that both the hair and the beard were kept short by +singeing them.[90] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 90: It is somewhat curious that almost all savages entertain +an abhorrence at hair on any other part of the body than the head; and +some of them even to that. Two reasons, at least, may be assigned for +it, both of them, however, somewhat hypothetical, it must be owned. 1. +Their admiration of youth--the same principle which induces some +<i>civilized</i> people to powder their heads, and <i>dye</i> their whiskers, &c. +when assuming the silvery hue of age! And, 2. Their having learned by +experience that it rendered them more obnoxious to vermin and filth. The +hair of the head is one of the finest objects in human beauty, and as +such, probably in defiance of interlopers, has been generally saved in +its natural state, or made the basis of important decorations.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Both sexes, as I have already observed, go stark naked, and seem to have +no more sense of indecency in discovering the whole body, than we have +in discovering our hands and face. Their principal ornament is the bone +which they thrust through the cartilage that divides the nostrils from +each other: What perversion of taste could make them think this a +decoration, or what could prompt them, before they had worn it or seen +it worn, to suffer the pain and inconvenience that must of necessity +attend it, is perhaps beyond the power of human sagacity to determine: +As this bone is as thick as a man's finger, and between five and six +inches long, it reaches quite across the face, and so effectually stops +up both the nostrils that they are forced to keep their mouths wide open +for breath, and snuffle so when they attempt to speak, that they are +scarcely intelligible even to each other. Our seamen, with some humour, +called it their spritsail-yard; and indeed it had so ludicrous an +appearance, that till we were used to it, we found it difficult to +refrain from laughter.[91] Beside this nose-jewel, they had necklaces +made of shells, very neatly cut and strung together; bracelets of small +cord, wound two or three times about the upper part of their arm, and a +string of plaited human hair about as thick as a thread of yarn, tied +round the waist. Besides these, some of them had gorgets of shells +hanging round the neck, so as to reach cross the breast. But though +these people wear no clothes, their bodies have a covering besides the +dirt, for they paint them both white and red: The red is commonly laid +on in broad patches upon the shoulders and breast; and the white in +stripes, some narrow, and some broad: The narrow were drawn over the +limbs, and the broad over the body, not without some degree of taste. +The white was also laid on in small patches upon the face, and drawn in +a circle round each eye. The red seemed to be ochre, but what the white +was we could not discover; it was close-grained, saponaceous to the +touch, and almost as heavy as white lead; possibly it might be a kind of +<i>Steatites</i>, but to our great regret we could not procure a bit of it to +examine. They have holes in their ears, but we never saw any thing worn +in them. Upon such ornaments as they had, they set so great a value, +that they would never part with the least article for any thing we could +offer; which was the more extraordinary as our beads and ribbons were +ornaments of the same kind, but of a more regular form and more showy +materials. They had indeed no idea of traffic, nor could we communicate +any to them: They received the things that we gave them; but never +appeared to understand our signs when we required a return. The same +indifference which prevented them from buying what we had, prevented +them also from attempting to steal: If they had coveted more, they would +have been less honest; for when we refused to give them a turtle, they +were enraged, and attempted to take it by force, and we had nothing +else upon which they seemed to set the least value; for, as I have +observed before, many of the things that we had given them, we found +left negligently about in the woods, like the playthings of children, +which please only while they are new. Upon their bodies we saw no marks +of disease or sores, but large scars in irregular lines, which appeared +to be the remains of wounds which they had inflicted upon themselves +with some blunt instrument, and which we understood by signs to have +been memorials of grief for the dead.[92] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 91: Other people, we know, have a fancy for such ornaments. +According to Captain Carver's account of some of the North American +Indians, "it is a common custom among them to bore their noses, and wear +in them pendants of different sorts." And more instances might be +mentioned. But we shall have occasion hereafter to speak of some +remarkable modes in which the love of distinction and ornament manifests +itself The very same principle leads human nature to embellish itself +from the "crown of the head to the sole of the foot." One's own dear +self is so lovely as to become every sort of ornament that ingenuity can +contrive!--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 92: It might be worth one's while to enquire as to the +prevalency of this practice amongst different people, and whether or not +it is in general connected with any peculiarities of religious belief. +That it was in use in early times, is certain, for we find a prohibition +against it in the Mosaic code, Deut. xiv. 1. and an allusion to it in +Jerem. xvi. 6. Mr Harmer, who has some observations on the subject, +seems to be of opinion that the expression used in Deuteronomy, <i>the +dead</i>, means <i>idols</i>, and that the practice accordingly was rather of a +religious nature. But the language of the prophet in the verse alluded +to, does not fall in with such a notion. Cicero speaks contemptuously of +such modes of mourning for the dead, calling them <i>varie et detestabilia +genera lugendi</i>. Tusc. Quæst. 3.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They appeared to have no fixed habitations, for we saw nothing like a +town or village in the whole country. Their houses, if houses they may +be called, seem to be formed with less art and industry than any we had +seen, except the wretched hovels at Terra del Fuego, and in some +respects they are inferior even to them. At Botany Bay, where they were +best, they were just high enough for a man to sit upright in; but not +large enough for him to extend himself in his whole length in any +direction: They are built with pliable rods about as thick as a man's +finger, in the form of an oven, by sticking the two ends into the +ground, and then covering them with palm-leaves, and broad pieces of +bark: The door is nothing but a large hole at one end, opposite to which +the fire is made, as we perceived by the ashes. Under these houses, or +sheds, they sleep, coiled up with their heels to their head; and in +this position one of them will hold three or four persons. As we +advanced northward, and the climate became warmer, we found these sheds +still more slight: They were built, like the others, of twigs, and +covered with bark; but none of them were more than four feet deep, and +one side was entirely open: The close side was always opposed to the +course of the prevailing wind, and opposite to the open side was the +fire, probably more as a defence from the musquitos than the cold. Under +these hovels it is probable, that they thrust only their heads and the +upper part of their bodies, extending their feet towards the fire. They +were set up occasionally by a wandering horde in any place that would +furnish them for a time with subsistence, and left behind them when, +after it was exhausted, they went away: But in places where they +remained only for a night or two, they slept without any shelter, except +the bushes or grass, which is here near two feet high. We observed, +however, that though the sleeping huts which we found upon the main, +were always turned from the prevailing wind, those upon the islands were +turned towards it; which seems to be a proof that they have a mild +season here, during which the sea is calm, and that the same weather +which enables them to visit the islands, makes the air welcome even +while they sleep. + +<p>The only furniture belonging to these houses that fell under our +observation, is a kind of oblong vessel made of bark, by the simple +contrivance of tying up the two ends with a withy, which not being cut +off serves for a handle; these we imagined were used as buckets to fetch +water from the spring, which may be supposed sometimes to be at a +considerable distance. They have however a small bag, about the size of +a moderate cabbage-net, which is made by laying threads loop within +loop, somewhat in the manner of knitting used by our ladies to make +purses. This bag the man carries loose upon his back by a small string +which passes over his head; it generally contains a lump or two of paint +and resin, some fish-books and lines, a shell or two, out of which their +hooks are made, a few points of darts, and their usual ornaments, which +includes the whole worldly treasure of the richest man among them. + +<p>Their fish-hooks are very neatly made, and some of them are exceedingly +small. For striking turtle they have a peg of wood which is about a +foot long, and very well bearded; this fits into a socket at the end of +a staff of light wood, about as thick as a man's wrist, and about seven +or eight feet long: To the staff is tied one end of a loose line about +three or four fathom long, the other end of which is fastened to the +peg. To strike the turtle, the peg is fixed into the socket, and when it +has entered his body, and is retained there by the barb, the staff flies +off and serves for a float to trace their victim in the water; it +assists also to tire him, till they can overtake him with their canoes, +and haul him ashore. One of these pegs, as I have mentioned already, we +found buried in the body of a turtle, which had healed up over it. Their +lines are from the thickness of a half-inch rope to the fineness of a +hair, and are made of some vegetable substance, but what in particular +we had no opportunity to learn. + +<p>Their food is chiefly fish, though they sometimes contrive to kill the +kangaroo, and even birds of various kinds; notwithstanding they are so +shy that we found it difficult to get within reach of them with a +fowling-piece. The only vegetable that can be considered as an article +of food is the yam; yet doubtless they eat the several fruits which have +been mentioned among other productions of the country; and indeed we saw +the shells and hulls of several of them lying about the places where +they had kindled their fire. + +<p>They do not appear to eat any animal food raw; but having no vessel in +which water can be boiled, they either broil it upon the coals, or bake +it in a hole by the help of hot stones, in the same manner as is +practised by the inhabitants of the islands in the South Seas. + +<p>Whether they are acquainted with any plant that has an intoxicating +quality, we do not know; but we observed that several of them held +leaves of some sort constantly in their mouths, as an European does +tobacco, and an East-Indian betele; we never saw the plant, but when +they took it from their mouths at our request; possibly it might be a +species of the betele, but whatever it was, it had no effect upon the +teeth or lips. + +<p>As they have no nets, they catch fish only by striking, or with a hook +and line, except such as they find in the hollows of the rocks, and +shoals, which are dry at half-ebb. + +<p>Their manner of hunting we had no opportunity to see; but we +conjectured, by the notches which they had every where cut in large +trees in order to climb them, that they took their station near the tops +of them, and there watched for such animals as might happen to pass near +enough to be reached by their lances: It is possible also, that in this +situation they might take birds when they came to roost. + +<p>I have observed that when they went from our tents upon the banks of +Endeavour River, we could trace them by the fires which they kindled in +their way; and we imagined that these fires were intended some way for +the taking the kangaroo, which we observed to be so much afraid of fire, +that our dogs could scarcely force it over places which had been newly +burnt, though the fire was extinguished. + +<p>They produce fire with great facility, and spread it in a wonderful +manner. To produce it they take two pieces of dry soft wood, one is a +stick about eight or nine inches long, the other piece is flat: The +stick they shape into an obtuse point at one end, and pressing it upon +the other, turn it nimbly by holding it between both their hands as we +do a chocolate mill, often shifting their hands up, and then moving them +down upon it, to increase the pressure as much as possible. By this +method they get fire in less than two minutes, and from the smallest +spark they increase it with great speed and dexterity. We have often +seen one of them run along the shore, to all appearance with nothing in +his hand, who stooping down for a moment, at the distance of every fifty +or a hundred yards, left fire behind him, as we could see first by the +smoke and then by the flame among the drift-wood, and other litter which +was scattered along the place. We had the curiosity to examine one of +these planters of fire, when he set off, and we saw him wrap up a small +spark in dry grass, which, when he had run a little way, having been +fanned by the air that his motion produced, began to blaze; he then laid +it down in a place convenient for, his purpose, inclosing a spark of it +in another quantity of grass, and so continued his course. + +<p>There are perhaps few things in the history of mankind more +extraordinary than the discovery and application of fire: It will +scarcely be disputed that the manner of producing it, whether by +collision or attrition, was discovered by chance: But its first effects +would naturally strike those to whom it was a new object, with +consternation and terror: It would appear to be an enemy to life and +nature, and to torment and destroy whatever was capable of being +destroyed or tormented; and therefore it seems not easy to conceive +what should incline those who first saw it receive a transient existence +from chance, to reproduce it by design. It is by no means probable that +those who first saw fire, approached it with the same caution, as those +who are familiar with its effects, so as to be warmed only and not +burnt; and it is reasonable to think that the intolerable pain which, at +its first appearance, it must produce upon ignorant curiosity, would sow +perpetual enmity between this element and mankind; and that the same +principle which incites them to crush a serpent, would incite them to +destroy fire, and avoid all means by which it would be produced, as soon +as they were known. These circumstances considered, how men became +sufficiently familiar with it to render it useful, seems to be a problem +very difficult to solve: Nor is it easy to account for the first +application of it to culinary purposes, as the eating both animal and +vegetable food raw, must have become a habit, before there was fire to +dress it, and those who have considered the force of habit will readily +believe, that to men who had always eaten the flesh of animals raw, it +would be as disagreeable dressed, as to those who have always eaten it +dressed, it would be raw. It is remarkable that the inhabitants of Terra +del Fuego produce fire from a spark by collision, and that the happier +natives of this country, New Zealand and Otaheite, produce it by the +attrition of one combustible substance against another: Is there not +then some reason to suppose that these different operations correspond +with the manner in which chance produced fire in the neighbourhood of +the torrid and frigid zones? Among the rude inhabitants of a cold +country, neither any operation of art, or occurrence of accident, could +be supposed so easily to produce fire by attrition, as in a climate +where every thing is hot, dry, and adust, teeming with a latent fire +which a slight degree of motion was sufficient to call forth; in a cold +country therefore, it is natural to suppose that fire was produced by +the accidental collision of two metallic substances, and in a cold +country, for that reason, the same expedient was used to produce it by +design: But in hot countries, where two combustible substances easily +kindle by attrition, it is probable that the attrition of such +substances first produced fire, and here it was therefore natural for +art to adopt the same operation, with a view to produce the same effect. +It may indeed be true that fire is now produced in many cold countries +by attrition, and in many hot by a stroke; but perhaps upon enquiry +there may appear reason to conclude that this has arisen from the +communication of one country with another, and that with respect to the +original production of fire in hot and cold countries, the distinction +is well founded. + +<p>There may perhaps be some reason to suppose that men became gradually +acquainted with the nature and effects of fire, by its permanent +existence in a volcano, there being remains of volcanoes, or vestiges of +their effects, in almost every part of the world: By a volcano, however, +no method of producing fire, otherwise than by contact, could be learnt; +the production and application of fire therefore, still seem to afford +abundant subject of speculation to the curious.[93] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 93: Mr Jones, who writes on this subject in one of his +Physiological Disquisitions, is not a little displeased with some of the +observations made here, which seem to imply that mankind were left +destitute of the knowledge of fire, and had to acquire it by mere +accidental notice.--Mr Jones's zeal, however, appears more conspicuous +in this matter than either his judgment or his acquaintance with the +remarks of various authors. President Goguet has shewn his usual +industry in this matter. He refers to a considerable number of authors +for proof that the knowledge of fire was by no means very extensive +among the early nations, and that even where it existed, it had been +often discovered by accident. A summary of what this excellent writer +has said on the subject, with a quotation or two, cannot fail to be +interesting to the reader, and will scarcely run any risk of being +judged either ill-timed or tedious. The Chinese, Persians, Egyptians, +Phoenicians, Greeks, and several other nations, admit that their +ancestors were once without the use of fire. This is said on the +authority of Plato, Diodorus Siculus, Sanchoniathon, authors mentioned +by Bannier, as Hesiod, Lucretius, Virgil, &c. &c. And we learn from +Pomponius Mela, Pliny, Plutarch, and others, that in their times there +were nations who were either quite ignorant of fire, or had but just +learned its nature and effects. These authorities are strengthened by +what has been related of people discovered in modern times. Thus the +inhabitants of the Marian or Ladrone Islands, and also of the Philippine +and Canaries, are said to have been without this knowledge, at the time +of their discovery. We are told besides of several nations in America +and Africa being in the same state of ignorance. As to these, however, +it is but fair to apprize the reader, that the authorities adduced by +the President are not such as can be implicitly relied on--a remark, +perhaps, which some readers will not fail to apply to certain of the +writers formerly mentioned. The Egyptians owed their knowledge of fire +to thunder and lightning; the Phoenicians to the effect of the wind on +woods and forests; volcanos, burning earth, (as in a province of Persia) +and boiling wells (frequent in several countries), gave rise to this +knowledge amongst other people. "We may form very probable conjectures +about the methods which men at first used to procure fire, when they had +occasion for it, from ancient traditions, and from the present practices +of the savages. They could not be long in discovering, that by striking +two flints each against other, there went sparks from them:" "They +remarked, that by rubbing two pieces of hard wood very strongly against +each other, they raised sparks; nay, that by rubbing for some time two +pieces of wood, they raised flame." "The Chinese say that one of their +first kings taught them this latter method; and the Greeks had nearly +the same tradition." This method, we learn from Lawson, was in use +amongst the natives of Carolina, before they became acquainted, with the +use of steel and flints. "They got their fire," says he, "with sticks, +which by vehement collision, or rubbing together, take fire." "You are +to understand," he adds, "that the two sticks they use to strike fire +withal, are never of one sort of wood, but always differ from each +other." Indeed it is probable that this method has been very generally +practised. Seneca makes mention of it in the 2d book, chap. 22. of his +Nat. Quæst., and he specifies some of the kinds of wood known by the +shepherds to be fit for the purpose, "<i>sicut lauris, hederæ, et alia in +hunc usum nota pastoribus</i>." This is noticed by Mr Jones, who gives it +as his opinion that the <i>lauris</i>, here spoken of, is the bay-tree, +which, according to the poet Lucretius, is remarkable for its +inflammability. The reader may desire to see the opinion of Mr Jones as +to the origin of man's acquaintance with fire.--It is certainly worthy +of consideration, and supposing it restricted to the parent of our race, +and his immediate offspring, may be held with no small confidence. It +embraces indeed a wider field than can possibly be investigated in this +place. "The first family," says he, "placed by the Creator upon this +earth, offered sacrifices; which being an article of religious duty, +they were certainly possessed of the means of performing it, and +consequently of the knowledge and use of fire, without which it could +not be practised. The next generation presents us with artificers in +brass and iron, which could not possibly be wrought without the complete +knowledge of fire; neither indeed could any works of art be well carried +on. The account of this affair in the Bible is much more natural, +because it is much more agreeable to the goodness of God, and the +dignity of the human species, than to suppose, on the principles of a +wild and savage philosophy (alluding to Dr Hawkesworth's poor +conjectures, as Mr Jones styles them), that men were left ignorant of +the use of an element intended for their accommodation and support. To +interdict a man from the use of fire and water, was accounted the same +in effect as to send him out of life; so that if men, upon the original +terms of their creation, were thus interdicted by the Creator himself, +as the Heathen mythologists supposed them to be, they were sent into +life upon such terms as others were sent out of it. If we admit any such +gloomy suppositions, where shall we stop? If mankind were left destitute +in respect to the knowledge of fire, perhaps they were left without +language, without food, without clothing, without reason, and in a worse +condition than the beasts, who are born with the proper knowledge of +life, but man receives it by education; therefore he who taught the +beasts by instinct, taught man by information." Much might be said for +and against this mode of reasoning, which this place, already so fully +occupied, will not admit. The history of fire is involved in +difficulties, and has really obtained less attention from men of +learning than it deserves. Probably, on appointing the rites of +sacrifice, which there is reason to believe was immediately after the +first gracious promise to Adam, God testified his acceptance of the +offering by fire from heaven, which was the beginning of man's +acquaintance with it, and in this manner it is certain God afterwards +shewed his approbation.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The weapons of these people are spears or lances, and these are or +different kinds: Some that we saw upon the southern part of the coast +had four prongs, pointed with bone, and barbed; the points were also +smeared with a hard resin, which gave them a polish, and made them enter +deeper into what they struck. To the northward, the lance has but one +point: The shaft is made of cane, or the stalk of a plant somewhat +resembling a bulrush, very straight and light, and from eight to +fourteen feet long, consisting of several joints, where the pieces are +let into each other, and bound together; to this are fitted points of +different kinds; some are of hard heavy wood, and some are the bones of +fish: We saw several that were pointed with the stings of the sting-ray, +the largest that they could procure, and barbed with several that were +smaller, fastened on in a contrary direction; the points of wood were +also sometimes armed with sharp pieces of broken shells, which were +stuck in, and at the junctures covered with resin: The lances that are +thus barbed, are indeed dreadful weapons, for when once they have taken +place, they can never be drawn back without tearing away the flesh, or +leaving the sharp ragged splinters of the bone or shell which forms the +beard, behind them in the wound. These weapons are thrown with great +force and dexterity; if intended to wound at a short distance, between +ten and twenty yards, simply with the hand, but if at the distance of +forty or fifty, with an instrument which we called a throwing-stick. +This is a plain smooth piece of a hard reddish wood, very highly +polished, about two inches broad, half an inch thick, and three feet +long, with a small knob, or hook at one end, and a cross piece about +three or four inches long at the other: The knob at one end is received +in a small dent or hollow, which is made for that purpose in the shaft +of the lance near the point, but from which it easily slips, upon being +impelled forward: When the lance is laid along upon this machine, and +secured in a proper position by the knob, the person that is to throw +it holds it over his shoulder, and after shaking it, delivers both the +throwing-stick and lance with all his force; but the stick being stopped +by the cross piece which comes against the shoulder, with a sudden jerk, +the lance flies forward with incredible swiftness, and with so good an +aim, that at the distance of fifty yards these Indians were more sure of +their mark than we could be with a single bullet. Besides these lances, +we saw no offensive weapon upon this coast, except when we took our last +view of it with our glasses, and then we thought we saw a man with a bow +and arrows, in which it is possible we might be mistaken. We saw, +however, at Botany Bay, a shield or target of an oblong shape, about +three feet long, and eighteen inches broad, which was made of the bark +of a tree: This was fetched out of a hut by one of the men that opposed +our landing, who, when he ran away, left it behind him, and upon taking +it up, we found that it had been pierced through with a single pointed +lance near the center. These shields are certainly in frequent use among +the people here; for though this was the only one that we saw in their +possession, we frequently found trees from which they appeared +manifestly to have been cut, the marks being easily distinguished from +those that were made by cutting buckets: Sometimes also we found the +shields cut out, but not yet taken off from the tree, the edges of the +bark only being a little raised by wedges, so that these people appear +to have discovered that the bark of a tree becomes thicker and stronger +by being suffered to remain upon the trunk after it has been cut round. + +<p>The canoes of New Holland are as mean and rude as the houses. Those on +the southern part of the coast are nothing more than a piece of bark, +about twelve feet long, tied together at the ends, and kept open in the +middle by small bows of wood: Yet in a vessel of this construction we +once saw three people. In shallow water they are set forward by a pole, +and in deeper by paddles, about eighteen inches long, one of which the +boatman holds in each hand; mean as they are, they have many +conveniencies; they draw but little water, and they are very light, so +that they go upon mud banks to pick up shell-fish, the most important +use to which they can be applied, better perhaps than vessels of any +other construction. We observed, that in the middle of these canoes +there was a heap of sea-weed, and upon that a small fire; probably that +the fish may be broiled and eaten the moment it is caught. + +<p>The canoes that we saw when we advanced farther to the northward, are +not made of bark, but of the trunk of a tree hollowed, perhaps by fire. +They are about fourteen feet long, and, being very narrow, are fitted +with an outrigger to prevent their oversetting. These are worked with +paddles, that are so large as to require both hands to manage one of +them: The outside is wholly unmarked by any tool, but at each end the +wood is left longer at the top than at the bottom, so that there is a +projection beyond the hollow part resembling the end of a plank; the +sides are tolerably thin, but how the tree is felled and fashioned, we +had no opportunity to learn. The only tools that we saw among them are +an adze, wretchedly made of stone, some small pieces of the same +substance in form of a wedge, a wooden mallet, and some shells and +fragments of coral. For polishing their throwing-sticks, and the points +of their lances, they use the leaves of a kind of wild fig-tree, which +bites upon wood almost as keenly as the shave-grass of Europe, which is +used by our joiners: With such tools, the making even such a canoe as I +have described, must be a most difficult and tedious labour: To those +who have been accustomed to the use of metal, it appears altogether +impracticable; but there are few difficulties that will not yield to +patient perseverance, and he who does all he can, will certainly produce +effects that greatly exceed his apparent power.[94] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 94: This very just observation cannot be too forcibly urged, +or too frequently recollected. The deficiency of which most men have +reason to complain, is not that of ability, but of industry and +application. Genius is pursued and coveted, because it is imagined to be +a sort of creating energy which produces at will, and without +labour.--It is therefore desirable to indolent minds. But this is a +mistake of no small detriment, though of very common occurrence. Few +people perhaps discover it to be so, till they have to condemn +themselves for the loss of much of their best time, spent in idly +wishing for the inspiration which is to do such wonders, for them +without exertion on their part. Reader, in place of this, fix on some +useful or laudable work, and set about <i>doing</i> it.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The utmost freight of these canoes is four people, and if more at any +time wanted to come over the river, one of those who came first was +obliged to go back for the rest: From this circumstance we conjectured +that the boat we saw, when we were lying in Endeavour River, was the +only one in the neighbourhood: We have however some reason to believe +that the bark canoes are also used where the wooden ones are +constructed, for upon one of the small islands where the natives had +been fishing for turtle, we found one of the little paddles which had +belonged to such a boat, and would have been useless on board any other. + +<p>By what means the inhabitants of this country are reduced to such a +number as it can subsist, is not perhaps very easy to guess; whether, +like the inhabitants of New Zealand, they are destroyed by the hands of +each other in contests for food; whether they are swept off by +accidental famine, or whether there is any cause which prevents the +increase of the species, must be left for future adventurers to +determine.[95] That they have wars, appears by their weapons; for +supposing the lances to serve merely for the striking of fish, the +shield could be intended for nothing but a defence against men; the only +mark of hostility, however, which we saw among them, was the perforation +of the shield by a spear, which has been just mentioned, for none of +them appeared to have been wounded by an enemy. Neither can we determine +whether they are pusillanimous or brave; the resolution with which two +of them attempted to prevent our landing, when we had two boats full of +men, in Botany Bay, even after one of them was wounded with small shot, +gave us reason to conclude that they were not only naturally courageous, +but that they had acquired a familiarity with the dangers of hostility, +and were, by habit as well as nature, a daring and warlike people; but +their precipitate flight from every other place that we approached, +without even a menace, while they were out of our reach, was an +indication of uncommon tameness and timidity, such as those who had only +been occasionally warriors must be supposed to have shaken off, whatever +might have been their natural disposition. I have faithfully related +facts, the reader must judge of the people for himself.[96] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 95: Some remarks on this very interesting subject will be +given hereafter.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 96: The reader may wait a little till he has received some +information destined to his use. What has been now given is too scanty +evidence to justify a final decision in the matter.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>From the account that has been given of our commerce with them, it +cannot be supposed that we should know much of their language; yet as +this is an object of great curiosity, especially to the learned, and of +great importance in their researches into the origin of the various +nations that have been discovered, we took some pains to bring away such +a specimen of it as might, in a certain degree, answer the purpose, and +I shall now give an account how it was procured. If we wanted to know +the name of a stone, we took a stone up into our hands, and, as well as +we could, intimated by signs that we wished they should name it: The +word that they pronounced upon the occasion, we immediately wrote down. +This method, though it was the best we could contrive, might certainly +lead us into many mistakes; for if an Indian was to take up a stone, and +ask us the name of it, we might answer a pebble or a flint; so when we +took up a stone and asked an Indian the name of it, he might pronounce a +word that distinguished the species, and not the genus, or that instead +of signifying stone simply, might signify a rough stone, or a smooth +stone: However, as much as possible to avoid mistakes of this kind, +several of us contrived, at different times, to get from them as many +words as we could, and having noted them down, compared our lists; those +which were the same in all, and which, according to every one's account, +signified the same thing, we ventured to record, with a very few others, +which, from the simplicity of the subject, and the ease of expressing +our question with plainness and precision by a sign, have acquired equal +authority. + +<pre> + English. New Holland. + + <i>The head</i>, Wageegee. + <i>Hair</i>, Morye. + <i>Eyes</i>, Meul. + <i>Ears</i>, Melea. + <i>Lips</i>, Yembe. + <i>Nose</i>, Bonjoo. + <i>Tongue</i>, Unjar. + <i>Nails</i>, Kulke. + <i>Sun</i>, Gallan. + <i>Fire</i>, Meanang. + <i>A stone</i>, Walba. + <i>Sand</i>, Yowall. + <i>A rope</i>, Gurka. + <i>A man</i>, Bama. + <i>Beard</i>, Wallar. + <i>Neck</i>, Doomboo. + <i>Nipples</i>, Cayo. + <i>Hands</i>, Marigal. + <i>Thighs</i>, Coman. + <i>Navel</i>, Toolpoor. + <i>Knees</i>, Pongo. + <i>Feet</i>, Edamal. + <i>Heel</i>, Kniorror. + <i>Cockatoo</i>, Wanda. + <i>The soal of the foot</i> Chumal. + <i>Ankle</i>, Chongurn. + <i>Arms</i>, Aco, or Acol. + <i>Thumb</i>, Eboorbalga. + <i>The fore, middle, and ring fingers</i>, Egalbaiga. + <i>The little finger</i>, Nakil, or Ebornakil. + <i>The Sky</i>, Kere, or Kearre. + <i>A father</i>, Dunjo. + <i>A Son</i>, Jumurre. + <i>A male turtle</i>, Poinga. + <i>A female</i>, Mameingo. + <i>A canoe</i>, Marigan. + <i>To paddle</i>, Pelenyo. + <i>Sit down</i>, Takai. + <i>Smooth</i>, Mier Carrar. + <i>A dog</i>, Cotta, or Kota. + <i>A loriquet</i>. Perpere, or pier-pier. + <i>Blood</i>, Yarmbe. + <i>Wood</i>, Yocou. + <i>The bone in the nose</i>, Tapool. + <i>A bag</i>, Charngala. + <i>A great cockle</i>, Moingo. + <i>Cocos, Yams</i>, Maracatou. + + New Holland. English + + Cherr, } <i>Expressions, as we supposed, of</i> + Cherco, } <i>admiration, which they continually</i> + Yarcaw, } <i>used when they were</i> + Tut, tut, tut, tut, } <i>in company with us</i>.[97] +</pre> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 97: This table is exceedingly scanty and imperfect, and would +not have been given were it not thought proper, for a reason already +assigned, to preserve entire this early account of New Holland.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>I shall now quit this country with a few observations relative to the +currents and tides upon the coast. From latitude 32°, and somewhat +higher, down to Sandy Cape, in latitude 24° 46', we constantly found a +current setting to the southward, at the rate of about ten or fifteen +miles a-day, being more or less, according to our distance from the +land, for it always ran with more force in-shore than in the offing; but +I could never satisfy myself whether the flood-tide came from the +southward, the eastward, or the northward; I inclined to the opinion +that it came from the southeast; but the first time we anchored off the +coast, which was in latitude 24° 30', about ten leagues to the +south-east of Bustard Bay, I found it came from the north-west; on the +contrary, thirty leagues farther to the north-west, on the south side of +Keppel Bay, I found that it came from the east, and at the northern part +of that bay it came from the northward, but with a much slower motion +than it had come from the east: On the east side of the Bay of Inlets, +it set strongly to the westward, as far as the opening of Broad Sound; +but on the north side of that sound it came with a very slow motion from +the north-west; and when we lay at anchor before Repulse Bay, it came +from the northward: To account for its course in all this variety of +directions, we need only admit that the flood-tide comes from the east +or south-east. It is well known, that where there are deep inlets, and +large creeks into low lands running up from the sea, and not occasioned +by rivers of fresh water, there will always be a great indraught of the +flood-tide, the direction of which will be determined by the position or +direction of the coast which forms the entrance of such inlet, whatever +be its course at sea; and where the tides are weak, which upon this +coast is generally the case, a large inlet will, if I may be allowed the +expression, attract the flood-tide for many leagues. + +<p>A view of the chart will at once illustrate this position. To the +northward of Whitsunday's Passage there is no large inlet, consequently +the flood sets to the northward, or northwestward, according to the +direction of the coast, and the ebb to the south, or south-eastward, at +least such is their course at a little distance from the land, for very +near it they will be influenced by small inlets. I also observed that we +had only one high tide in twenty-four hours, which happened in the +night. The difference between the perpendicular rise of the water in the +day and the night, when there is a spring-tide, is no less than three +feet, which, where the tides are so inconsiderable as they are here, is +a great proportion of the whole difference between high and low water. +This irregularity of the tides, which is worthy of notice, we did not +discover till we were ran ashore, and perhaps farther to the northward +it is still greater. After we got within the reef the second time, we +found the tides more considerable than we had ever done before, except +in the Bay of Inlets, and possibly this may be owing to the water being +more confined between the shoals; here also the flood sets to the +north-west, and continues in the same direction to the extremity of New +Wales, from whence its direction is west and south-west into the Indian +sea. + +<p>SECTION XXXIV. + +<p><i>The Passage from New South Wales to New Guinea, with an Account of what +happened upon landing there</i>. + +<p>In the afternoon of Thursday, August the 23d, after leaving Booby +Island, we steered W.N.W. with light airs from the S.S.W. till five +o'clock, when it fell calm, and the tide of ebb soon after setting to +the N.E., we came to an anchor in eight fathom water, with a soft sandy +bottom. Booby Island bore S. 50 E., distant five miles, and the Prince +of Wales's Isles extended from N.E. by N. to S. 55 E.; between these +there appeared to be a clear open passage, extending from N. 46 E. to E. +by N. + +<p>At half an hour after five in the morning of the 24th, as we were +purchasing the anchor, the cable parted at about eight or ten fathom +from the ring: The ship then began to drive, but I immediately dropped +another anchor, which brought her up before she got more than a cable's +length from the buoy; the boats were then sent to sweep for the anchor, +but could not succeed. At noon our latitude by observation was 10° 30' +S. As I was resolved not to leave the anchor behind, while there +remained a possibility of recovering it, I sent the boats again after +dinner with a small line, to discover where it lay; this being happily +effected, we swept for it with a hawser, and by the same hawser hove the +ship up to it: We proceeded to weigh it, but just as we were about to +ship it, the hawser slipped, and we had all our labour to repeat: By +this time it was dark, and we were obliged to suspend our operations +till the morning. + +<p>As soon as it was light, we sweeped it again, and heaved it to the bows: +By eight o'clock we weighed the other anchor, got under sail, and, with +a fine breeze at E.N.E. stood to the north-west. At noon, our latitude, +by observation, was 10° 18' S., longitude 219° 39' W. At this time we +had no land in sight, but about two miles to the southward of us lay a +large shoal, upon which the sea broke with great violence, and part of +which, I believe, is dry at low water. It extends N.W. and S.E., and is +about five leagues in circuit. Our depth of water, from the time we +weighed till now, was nine fathom, but it soon shallowed to seven +fathom; and at half an hour after one, having run eleven miles between +noon and that time, the boat which was a-head made the signal for shoal +water; we immediately let go an anchor, and brought the ship up with all +the sails standing, for the boat, having just been relieved, was at but +a little distance: Upon looking out from the ship, we saw shoal water +almost all round us, both wind and tide at the same time setting upon +it. The ship was in six fathom, but upon sounding round her, at the +distance of half a cable's length, we found scarcely two. This shoal +reached from the east, round by the north and west, as far as the +south-west, so that there was no way for us to get clear but that which +we came. This was another hair's-breadth escape, for it was near high +water, and there run a short cockling sea, which must very soon have +bulged the ship if she had struck; and if her direction had been half a +cable's length more either to the right or left, she must have struck +before the signal for the shoal was made. The shoals which, like these, +lie a fathom or two under water, are the most dangerous of any, for they +do not discover themselves till the vessel is just upon them, and then +indeed the water looks brown, as if it reflected a dark cloud. Between +three and four o'clock the tide of ebb began to make, and I sent the +master to sound to the southward and south-westward, and in the mean +time, as the ship tended, I weighed anchor, and with a little sail stood +first to the southward, and after edging away to the westward, got once +more out of danger. At sun-set we anchored in ten fathom, with a sandy +bottom, having a fresh gale at E.S.E. + +<p>At six in the morning we weighed again and stood west, having, as usual, +first sent a boat a-head to sound. I had intended to steer N.W. till I +had made the south coast of New Guinea, designing, if possible, to touch +upon it; but upon meeting with these shoals, I altered my course, in +hopes of finding a clearer channel, and deeper water. In this I +succeeded, for by noon our depth of water was gradually increased to +seventeen fathom. Our latitude was now, by observation, 10° 10' S., and +our longitude 220° 12' W. No land was in sight. We continued to steer W. +till sun-set, our depth of water being from twenty-seven to twenty-three +fathom: We then shortened sail, and kept upon a wind all night; four +hours on one tack and four on another. At day-light we made all the sail +we could, and steered W.N.W. till eight o'clock, and then N.W. At noon +our latitude, by observation, was 9° 56' S., longitude 221° W.; +variation 2° 30' E. We continued our N.W. course till sun-set, when we +again shortened sail, and hauled close upon a wind to the northward: +Our depth of water was twenty-one fathom. At eight, we tacked and stood +to the southward till twelve; then stood to the northward, with little +sail, till day-light: Our soundings were from twenty-five to seventeen +fathom, the water growing gradually shallow as we stood to the +northward. At this time we made sail and stood to the north, in order to +make the land of New Guinea: From the time of our making sail, till +noon, the depth of water gradually decreased from seventeen to twelve +fathom, with a stoney and shelly bottom. Our latitude, by observation, +was now 8° 52' S, which is in the same parallel as that in which the +southern parts of New Guinea are laid down in the charts; but there are +only two points so far to the south, and I reckoned that we were a +degree to the westward of them both, and therefore did not see the land, +which trends more to the northward. We found the sea here to be in many +parts covered with a brown scum, such as sailors generally call spawn. +When I first saw it, I was alarmed, fearing that we were among shoals; +but upon sounding, we found the same depth of water as in other places. +This scum was examined both by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, but they could +not determine what it was: It was formed of innumerable small particles, +not more than half a line in length, each of which in the microscope +appeared to consist of thirty or forty tubes; and each tube was divided +through its whole length by small partitions into many cells, like the +tubes of the conferva: They were supposed to belong to the vegetable +kingdom, because, upon burning them, they produced no smell like that of +an animal substance. The same appearance had been observed upon the +coast of Brazil and New Holland, but never at any considerable distance +from the shore. In the evening a small bird hovered about the ship, and +at night, settling among the rigging, was taken. It proved to be exactly +the same bird which Dampier has described, and of which he has given a +rude figure, by the name of a Noddy, from New Holland. [See his Voyages, +vol. iii. p. 98, Tab. of Birds, fig. 5.][98] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 98: Additional information on this subject remains for a +subsequent part of our work.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We continued standing to the northward with a fresh gale at E. by S. and +S.E., till six in the evening, having very irregular soundings, the +depth changing at once from twenty-four fathom to seven. At four we had +seen the land from the mast-head, bearing N.W. by N.; it appeared to be +very low, and to stretch from W.N.W. to N.N.E., distant four or five +leagues. We now hauled close upon a wind till seven, then tacked and +stood to the southward till twelve, at which time we wore and stood to +the northward till four in the morning, then laid the head of the vessel +off till daylight, when we again saw the land, and stood in N.N.W., +directly for it, with a fresh gale at E. by S. Our soundings during the +night were very irregular, from seven to five fathom, suddenly changing +from deep to shallow, and from shallow to deep, without in the least +corresponding with our distance from the land. At half an hour after six +in the morning, a small low island, which lay at the distance of about a +league from the main, bore N. by W. distant five miles: This island lies +in latitude 8° 13' S., longitude 231° 25' W.; and I find it laid down in +the charts by the names of Bartholomew and Whermoysen. We now steered +N.W. by W.W.N.W., W. by N.W. by S., and S.W. by W., as we found the +land lie, with from five to nine fathom; and though we reckoned we were +not more than four leagues from it, yet it was so low and level that we +could but just see it from the deck. It appeared, however, to be well +covered with wood, and, among other trees, we thought we could +distinguish the cocoa-nut. We saw smoke in several places, and therefore +knew there were inhabitants. At noon we were about three leagues from +the land; the westermost part of which that was in sight bore S. 79° W. +Our latitude, by observation, was 8° 19' S., and longitude 221° 44' W. +The island of St Bartholomew bore N. 74 E. distant 20 miles. + +<p>After steering S.W. by W. six miles, we had shoal water on our starboard +bow, which I sent the yawl to sound, and at the same time hauled off +upon a wind till four o'clock, and though during that time we had run +six miles, we had not deepened our water an inch. I then edged away S.W. +four miles more; but finding it still shoal water, I brought-to and +called the boats aboard. At this time, being between three and four +leagues from the shore, and the yawl having found only three fathom +water in the place to which I had sent her to sound, I hauled off close +upon a wind, and weathered the shoal about half a mile. + +<p>Between one and two o'clock we passed a bay or inlet, before which lies +a small island that seems to shelter it from the southerly winds; but I +very much doubt whether there is sufficient depth of water behind it for +shipping. I could not attempt to determine the question, because the +S.E. trade-wind blows right into the bay, and we had not as yet had any +breeze from the land. + +<p>We stretched off to sea till twelve o'clock, when we were about eleven +leagues from the land, and had deepened our water to twenty-nine fathom. +We now tacked and stood in till five in the morning, when, being in six +fathom and a half, we tacked and laid the head of the vessel off till +daylight, when we saw the land, bearing N.W. by W., at about the +distance of four leagues. We now made sail, and steered first W.S.W., +then W. by S.; but coming into five fathom and a half, we hauled off +S.W. till we deepened our water to eight fathom, and then kept away W. +by S. and W., having nine fathom, and the land just in sight from the +deck; we judged it to be about four leagues distant, and it was still +very low and woody. Great quantities of the brown scum continued to +appear upon the water, and the sailors having given up the notion of its +being spawn, found a new name for it, and called it sea saw-dust. At +noon, our latitude, by observation, was 8° 30' S., our longitude 222° +34' W.; and Saint Bartholomew's Isle bore N. 69 E., distant seventy-four +miles. + +<p>As all this coast appears to have been very minutely examined by the +Dutch, and as our track will appear by the chart, it is sufficient to +say, that we continued our course to the northward with very shallow +water, upon a bank of mud, at such a distance from the shore as that it +could scarcely be seen from the ship till the third of September. During +this time we made many attempts to get near enough to go on shore, but +without success; and having now lost six days of fair wind, at a time +when we knew the south-east monsoon to be nearly at an end, we began to +be impatient of farther delay, and determined to run the ship in as near +to the shore as possible, and then land with the pinnace, while she kept +plying off and on to examine the produce of the country, and the +disposition of the inhabitants. For the two last days we had, early in +the morning, a light breeze from the shore, which was strongly +impregnated with the fragrance of the trees, shrubs, and herbage that +covered it, the smell being something like that of gum Benjamin. On the +3d of September, at day-break, we saw the land extending from N. by E. +to S.E., at about four leagues distance, and we then kept standing in +for it with a fresh gale at E.S.E. and E. by S. till nine o'clock, when +being within about three or four miles of it, and in three fathom water, +we brought-to. The pinnace being hoisted out, I set off from the ship +with the boat's crew, accompanied by Mr Banks, who also took his +servants, and Dr Solander, being in all twelve persons, well armed; we +rowed directly towards the shore, but the water was so shallow that we +could not reach it by about two hundred yards; we waded, however, the +rest of the way, having left two of the seamen to take care of the boat. +Hitherto we had seen no signs of inhabitants at this place; but as soon +as we got ashore we discovered the prints of human feet, which could not +long have been impressed upon the sand, as they were below high-water +mark: We therefore concluded that the people were at no great distance, +and, as a thick wood came down within a hundred yards of the water, we +thought it necessary to proceed with caution, lest we should fall into +an ambuscade, and our retreat to the boat be cut off. We walked along +the skirts of the wood, and at the distance of about two hundred yards +from the place where we landed, we came to a grove of cocoa-nut trees, +which stood upon the banks of a little brook of brackish water. The +trees were of a small growth, but well hung with fruit; and near them +was a shed or hut, which had been covered with their leaves, though most +of them were now fallen off: About the hut lay a great number of the +shells of the fruit, some of which appeared to be just fresh from the +tree. We looked at the fruit very wishfully, but not thinking it safe to +climb, we were obliged to leave it without tasting a single nut. At a +little distance from this place we found plantains, and a bread-fruit +tree, but it had nothing upon it; and having now advanced about a +quarter of a mile from the boat, three Indians rushed out of the wood +with a hideous shout, at about the distance of a hundred yards; and as +they ran towards us, the foremost threw something out of his hand, which +flew on one side of him, and burnt exactly like gunpowder, but made no +report: The other two instantly threw their lances at us; and as no time +was now to be lost, we discharged our pieces, which were loaded with +small shot. It is probable that they did not feel the shot, for though +they halted a moment, they did not retreat; and a third dart was thrown +at us. As we thought their farther approach might be prevented with less +risk of life than it would cost to defend ourselves against their attack +if they should come nearer, we loaded our pieces with ball, and fired a +second time: By this discharge it is probable that some of them were +wounded; yet we had the satisfaction to see that they all ran away with +great agility. As I was not disposed forcibly to invade this country, +either to gratify our appetites or our curiosity, and perceived that +nothing was to be done upon friendly terms, we improved this interval, +in which the destruction of the natives was no longer necessary to our +own defence, and with all expedition returned towards our boat. As we +were advancing along the shore, we perceived that the two men on board +made signals that more Indians were coming down; and before we got into +the water we saw several of them coming round a point at the distance of +about five hundred yards: It is probable that they had met with the +three who first attacked as; for as soon as they saw us they halted, and +seemed to wait till their main body should come up. We entered the water +and waded towards the boat, and they remained at their station, without +giving us any interruption. As soon as we were aboard we rowed abreast +of them, and their number then appeared to be between sixty and a +hundred. We now took a view of them at our leisure; they made much the +same appearance as the New Hollanders, being nearly of the same stature, +and having their hair short cropped: Like them also, they were all stark +naked, but we thought the colour of their skin was not quite so dark; +this however might perhaps be merely the effect of their not being +quite so dirty. All this while they were shouting defiance, and letting +off their fires by four or five at a time. What these fires were, or for +what purpose intended, we could not imagine: Those who discharged them +had in their hands a short piece of stick, possibly a hollow cane, which +they swung sideways from them, and we immediately saw fire and smoke, +exactly resembling those of a musket, and of no longer duration. This +wonderful phenomenon was observed from the ship, and the deception was +so great that the people on board thought they had fire-arms; and in the +boat, if we had not been so near as that we must have heard the report, +we should have thought they had been firing volleys.[99] After we had +looked at them attentively some time, without taking any notice of their +flashing and vociferation, we fired some muskets over their heads: Upon +hearing the balls rattle among the trees, they walked leisurely away, +and we returned to the ship. Upon examining the weapons they had thrown +at us, we found them to be light darts, about four feet long, very ill +made, of a reed or bamboo cane, and pointed with hard wood, in which +there were many barbs. They were discharged with great force; for though +we were at sixty yards distance, they went beyond us, but in what manner +we could not exactly see; possibly they might be shot with a bow, but we +saw no bows among them when we surveyed them from the boat, and we were +in general of opinion that they were thrown, with a stick, in the manner +practised by the New Hollanders. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 99: So far as the writer recollects, no satisfactory account +of this singular fact has been given. He has long borne it in +remembrance, and sought for further information respecting it, but +hitherto has failed. He can conjecture, it is true, two or three modes +of explanation; but he does not chuse to be wise abase what is +written.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>This place lies in the latitude of 6° 15' S., and about sixty-five +leagues to the N.E. of Port Saint Augustine, or Walche Cape, and is near +what is called in the charts C. de la Colta de St Bonaventura. The land +here, like that in every other part of the coast, is very low, but +covered with a luxuriance of wood and herbage that can scarcely be +conceived. We saw the cocoa-nut, the bread-fruit, and the plantain tree, +all flourishing in a state of the highest perfection, though the +cocoa-nuts were green, and the bread-fruit not in season; besides most +of the trees, shrubs, and plants that are common to the South-Sea +islands, New Zealand, and New Holland. + +<p>Soon after our return to the ship, we hoisted in the boat, and made sail +to the westward, being resolved to spend no more time upon this coast, +to the great satisfaction of a very considerable majority of the ship's +company. But I am sorry to say that I was strongly urged by some of the +officers to send a party of men ashore and cut down the cocoa-nut trees +for the sake of the fruit. This I peremptorily refused, as equally +unjust and cruel. The natives had attacked us merely for landing upon +their coast, when we attempted to take nothing away, and it was +therefore morally certain that they would have made a vigorous effort to +defend their property if it had been invaded, in which case many of them +must have fallen a sacrifice to our attempt, and perhaps also some of +our own people. I should have regretted the necessity of such a measure, +if I had been in want of the necessaries of life, and certainly it would +have been highly criminal when nothing was to be obtained but two or +three hundred of green cocoa-nuts, which would at most have procured us +a mere transient gratification.[100] I might indeed have proceeded +farther along the coast to the northward and westward, in search of a +place where the ship might have lain so near the shore as to cover the +people with her guns when they landed; but this would have obviated only +part of the mischief, and though it might have secured us, would +probably in the very act have been fatal to the natives. Besides, we had +reason to think that before such a place would have been found, we +should have been carried so far to the westward as to have been obliged +to go to Batavia, on the north side of Java, which I did not think so +safe a passage as to the south of Java, through the Streights of Sunday: +The ship also was so leaky, that I doubted whether it would not be +necessary to heave her down at Batavia, which was another reason for +making the best of our way to that place, especially as no discovery +could be expected in seas which had already been navigated, and where +every coast had been laid down by the Dutch geographers. The Spaniards, +indeed, as well as the Dutch, seem to have circumnavigated all the +islands in New Guinea, as almost every place that is distinguished in +the chart has a name in both languages. The charts with which I compared +such part of the coast as I visited, are bound up with a French work, +entitled, "Histoire des Navigationes aux Terres Australes," which was +published in 1756, and I found them tolerably exact; yet I know not by +whom, or when they were taken: And though New Holland and New Guinea are +in them represented as two distinct countries, the very history in which +they are bound up, leaves it in doubt.[101] I pretend, however, to no +more merit in this part of the voyage than to have established the fact +beyond all controversy. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 100: Delicacy of feeling, perhaps, would have preferred the +omission of what has now been recorded as to the advice of some of the +officers, to the stating it in such a manner as leaves the responsible +persons under the shade of the guiltless, or implicates the latter in +the odium of the former. The advice, at all events, might have been +stated impersonally, as a mere suggestion that would naturally present +itself to any one who considered the benefit of the crew only, without +respect to the rights and properties of the natives,--a suggestion, +however, which it required but a moment's reflection on the laws of +humanity to dissipate with reproach. Some readers, it is probable, will +be sensible, as well as the writer, of an uncomfortable emotion at the +perusal of this part of the text, exclusive entirely of disapprobation +of the matter of which it treats.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 101: The work here mentioned was the valuable labour of +President De Brosses, and appeared at Paris, in two vols. quarto. It was +translated into English, and published at London in 1767. We shall +hereafter have occasion to cull some information from it, and to revert +to the fact of the separation of New Holland and New Guinea now alluded +to. Callender published a work at Edinburgh, in 1766, in three vols. +octavo, entitled, "Terra Australis Cognita; or Voyages to the Terra +Australis, or Southern Hemisphere, &c." It bore to be an original, but +is in fact a translation of what has now been mentioned.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>As the two countries lie very near each other, and the intermediate +space is full of islands, it is reasonable to suppose that they were +both peopled from one common stock; yet no intercourse appears to have +been kept up between them; for if there had, the cocoa-nuts, +bread-fruit, plantains, and other fruits of New Guinea, which are +equally necessary for the support of life, would certainly have been +transplanted to New Holland, where no traces of them are to be found. +The author of the "Histoire des Navigationes aux Terres Australes," in +his account of La Maire's voyage, has given a vocabulary of the language +that is spoken in an island near New Britain, and we find, by comparing +that vocabulary with the words which we learnt in New Holland, that the +languages are not the same. If therefore it should appear that the +languages of New Britain and New Guinea are the same, there will be +reason to suppose that New Britain and New Guinea were peopled from a +common stock, but that the inhabitants of New Holland had a different +origin, notwithstanding the proximity of the countries.[102] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 102: An interesting enough subject for enquiry is here +started. We shall, in another part of our work, have to give it some +attention.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION XXXV. + +<p><i>The Passage from New Guinea to the Island of Semau, and the +Transactions there</i>.[103] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 103: It is quite unnecessary, and would answer no good +purpose, to occupy the reader's attention with any geographical notes +respecting the islands mentioned in this section. Subsequent voyages, +and other publications, have greatly enriched our acquaintance with this +subject; but it would make sad patch-work to detail it here. The reader +will do better to amuse himself with the narrative for the present, and +to reserve study for a future occasion.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We made sail, from noon on Monday the 3d, to noon on Tuesday the 4th, +standing to the westward, and all the time kept in soundings, having +from fourteen to thirty fathom; not regular, but sometimes more, +sometimes less. At noon on the 4th, we were in fourteen fathom, and +latitude 6° 44' S., longitude 223° 51' W.; our course and distance since +the 3d, at noon, were S. 76 W., one hundred and twenty miles to the +westward. At noon on the 5th of September, we were in latitude 7° 25' +S., longitude 225° 41' W., having been in soundings the whole time from +ten to twenty fathom. + +<p>At half an hour after one in the morning of the next day, we passed a +small island which bore from us N.N.W., distant between three and four +miles; and at day-light we discovered another low island, extending from +N.N.W. to N.N.E., distant about two or three leagues. Upon this island, +which did not appear to be very small, I believe I should have landed to +examine its produce, if the wind had not blown too fresh to admit of it. +When we passed this island we had only ten fathom water, with a rocky +bottom, and therefore I was afraid of running down to leeward, lest I +should meet with shoal water and foul ground. These islands have no +place in the charts except they are the Arrou islands; and if these, +they are laid down much too far from New Guinea. I found the south part +of them to lie in latitude 7° 6' S., longitude 225° W. + +<p>We continued to steer W.S.W., at the rate of four miles and a half an +hour, till ten o'clock at night, when we had forty-two fathom, at eleven +we had thirty-seven, at twelve forty-five, at one in the morning, +forty-nine, and at three, 120, after which we had no ground. At +day-light we made all the sail we could, and at ten o'clock saw land +extending from N.N.W. to W. by N., distant between five and six leagues: +At noon it bore from N. to W., and at about the same distance: It +appeared to be level, and of a moderate height; by our distance from New +Guinea, it ought to have been part of the Arrou Islands, but it lies a +degree farther to the south than any of these islands are laid down in +the charts; and, by the latitude, should be Timor Laoet: We sounded, but +had no ground with fifty fathom. + +<p>As I was not able to satisfy myself from any chart, what land it was +that I saw to leeward, and fearing that it might trend away more +southerly, the weather also being so hazy that we could not see far, I +steered S.W., and by four had lost sight of the island. I was now sure +that no part of it lay to the southward of 8° 15' S., and continued +standing to the S.W. with an easy sail, and a fresh breeze at S.E. by E. +and E.S.E.: We sounded every hour, but had no bottom with 120 fathom. + +<p>At day-break in the morning, we steered W.S.W., and afterwards W. by S., +which by noon brought us into the latitude of 9° 30' S., longitude 229° +34' W., and by our run from New Guinea, we ought to have been within +sight of Weasel Isles, which in the charts are laid down at the distance +of twenty or twenty-five leagues from the coast of New Holland; we +however saw nothing, and therefore they must have been placed +erroneously; nor can this be thought strange, when it is considered that +not only these islands, but the coast which bounds this sea, have been +discovered and explored by different people, and at different times, and +the charts upon which they are delineated, put together by others, +perhaps at the distance of more than a century after the discoveries had +been made; not to mention that the discoverers themselves had not all +the requisites for keeping an accurate journal, of which those of the +present age are possessed. + +<p>We continued our course, steering W. till the evening of the 8th, when +the variation of the compass, by several azimuths, was 12' W., and by +the amplitude 5' W. At noon, on the 9th, our latitude, by observation, +was 9° 46' S., longitude 232° 7' W. For the last two days we had steered +due W., yet, by observation, we made sixteen miles southing, six miles +from noon on the 6th to noon on the 7th, and ten miles from noon on the +7th to noon on the 8th, by which it appeared that there was a current +setting to the southward. At sun-set, we found the variation to be 2 W., +and at the same time, saw an appearance of very high land bearing N.W. + +<p>In the morning of the 10th, we saw clearly that what had appeared to be +land the night before, was Timor. At noon, our latitude, by observation, +was 10° 1' S., which was fifteen miles to the southward of that given by +the log; our longitude, by observation, was 233° 27' W. We steered N.W. +in order to obtain a more distinct view of the land in sight, till four +o'clock in the morning of the 11th, when the wind came to the N.W. and +W., with which we stood to the southward till nine, when we tacked and +stood N.W., having the wind now at W.S.W. At sun-rise the land had +appeared to extend from W.N.W. to N.E., and at noon, we could see it +extend to the westward as far as W. by S. 1/2 S. but no farther to the +eastward than N. by E. We were now well assured, that as the first land +we had seen was Timor, the last island we had passed was Timor Laoet, or +Laut.[104] Laoet, is a word in the language of Malaca, signifying Sea, +and this island was named by the inhabitants of that country. The south +part of it lies in latitude 8° 15' S., longitude 228° 10' W., but in the +charts the south point is laid down in various latitudes, from 8° 30' to +9° 30': It is indeed possible that the land we saw might be some other +island, but the presumption to the contrary is very strong, for if Timor +Laut had lain where it is placed in the charts, we must have seen it +there. We were now in latitude 9° 37' S.; longitude, by an observation +of the sun and moon, 233° 54' W.; we were the day before in 233° 27'; +the difference is 27', exactly the same that was given by the log: This, +however, is a degree of accuracy in observation that is seldom to be +expected. In the afternoon, we stood in shore till eight in the evening; +when we tacked and stood off, being at the distance of about three +leagues from the land, which at sun-set extended from S.W. 1/2 W. to +N.E.: At this time we sounded, and had no ground with 140 fathom. At +midnight, having but little wind, we tacked and stood in, and at noon +the next day, our latitude, by observation, was 9° 36' S. This day, we +saw smoke on shore in several places, and had seen many fires during the +night. The land appeared to be very high, rising in gradual slopes one +above another: The hills were in general covered with thick woods, but +among them we could distinguish naked spots of a considerable extent, +which had the appearance of having been cleared by art. At five o'clock +in the afternoon, we were within a mile and a half of the shore, in +sixteen fathom water, and abreast of a small inlet into the low land, +which lies in latitude 9° 34 S., and probably is the same that Dampier +entered with his boat, for it did not seem to have sufficient depth of +water for a ship. The land here answered well to the description that he +has given of it: close to the beach it was covered with high spiry +trees, which he mentions as having the appearance of pines; behind these +there seemed to be salt-water creeks, and many mangroves, interspersed +however with cocoa-nut trees: The flat land at the beach appeared in +some places to extend inward two or three miles before the rise of the +first hill; in this part, however, we saw no appearance of plantations +or houses, but great fertility, and from the number of fires, we judged +that the place most be well peopled. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 104: Little is known of this island. Timor is said to have +been discovered by the companions of Magellan in 1522, when it was found +full of white sandal wood. The Portuguese very early settled in it as a +place of refuge from the Dutch, who however soon followed them, and in +1613, drove them from Cupan, their principal town, at the west end of +the island. The possession of this island might be made more valuable +than it seems as yet to have been. With scarcely any help from human +industry, its products in useful articles are considerable. We shall +have to treat of it hereafter.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>When we had approached within a mile and a half of the shore, we tacked +and stood off, and the extremes of the coast then extended from N.E. by +E. to W. by S. 1/2 S. The south-westerly extremity was a low point, +distant from us about three leagues. While we were standing in for the +shore, we sounded several times, but had no ground till we came within +about two miles and a half, and then we had five-and-twenty fathom, with +a soft-bottom. After we had tacked, we stood off till midnight, with the +wind at S.; we then tacked and stood two hours to the westward, when the +wind veered to S.W. and W.S.W., and we then stood to the southward +again. In the morning, we found the variation to be 1° 10' W. by the +amplitude, and by the azimuth 1° 27'. At noon, our latitude was, by +observation, 9° 45' S., our longitude 234° 12' W.; we were then about +seven leagues distant from the land, which extended from N. 31 E. to +W.S.W. 1/2 W. + +<p>With light land-breezes from W. by N. for a few hours in a morning, and +sea-breezes from S.S.W. and S. we advanced to the westward but slowly. +At noon on the 14th, we were between six and seven leagues from the +land, which extended from N. by E. to S. 78 W.; we still saw smoke in +many places by day, and fire by night, both upon the low land and the +mountains beyond it. We continued steering along the shore, till the +morning of the 15th, the land still appearing hilly, but not so high as +it had been: The hills in general came quite down to the sea, and where +they did not, we saw instead of flats and mangrove land, immense groves +of cocoa-nut trees, reaching about a mile up from the beach: There the +plantations and houses commenced, and appeared to be innumerable. The +houses were shaded by groves of the fan-palm, or <i>borassus</i>, and the +plantations, which were inclosed by a fence, reached almost to the tops +of the highest hills. We saw however neither people nor cattle, though +our glasses were continually employed, at which we were not a little +surprised. + +<p>We continued our course, with little variation, till nine o'clock in the +morning of the 16th, when we saw the small island called <i>Rotte</i>; and at +noon the island <i>Semau</i>, lying off the south end of Timor, bore N.W. + +<p>Dampier, who has given a large description of the island of Timor, says, +that it is seventy leagues long, and sixteen broad, and that it lies +nearly N E. and S.W. I found the east side of it to lie nearest N.E. by +E. and S.W. by W., and the south end to lie in latitude 10° 23' S., +longitude 236° 5' W. We ran about forty-five leagues along the east +side, and found the navigation altogether free from danger. The land +which is bounded by the sea, except near the south end, is low for two +or three miles within the beach, and in general intersected by salt +creeks: Behind the low land are mountains, which rise one above another +to a considerable height. We steered W.N.W. till two in the afternoon, +when, being within a small distance of the north end of Rotte, we hauled +up N.N.W. in order to go between it and Semau: After steering three +leagues upon this coarse, we edged away N.W. and W., and by six, we were +clear of all the islands. At this time, the south part of Semau, which +lies in latitude 10° 15' S., bore N.E. distant four leagues, and the +island of Rotte extended as far to the southward as S. 36 W. The north +end of this island, and the south end of Timor, lie N. 1/2 E. and S. 1/4 +W., and are about three or four leagues distant from each other. At the +west end of the passage between Rotte and Semau, are two small islands, +one of which lies near the Rotte shore, and the other off the south-west +point of Semau: There is a good channel between them, about six miles +broad, through which we passed. The isle of Rotte has not so lofty and +mountainous an appearance as Timor, though it is agreeably diversified +by hill and valley: On the north side, there are many sandy beaches, +near which grew some trees of the fan-palm, but the far greater part was +covered with a kind of brushy wood, that was without leaves. The +appearance of Semau was nearly the same with that of Timor, but not +quite so high. About ten o'clock at night, we observed a phænomenon in +the heavens, which in many particulars resembled the aurora borealis, +and in others, was very different: It consisted of a dull reddish light, +and reached about twenty degrees above the horizon: Its extent was very +different at different times, but it was never less than eight or ten +points of the compass: Through and out of this passed rays of light of a +brighter colour, which vanished, and were renewed nearly in the same +time as those of the aurora borealis, but had no degree of the tremulous +or vibratory motion which is observed in that phænomenon: The body of it +bore S.S.E. from the ship, and it continued, without any diminution of +its brightness, till twelve o'clock, when we retired to sleep, but how +long afterwards, I cannot tell. + +<p>Being clear of all the islands, which are laid down in the maps we had +on board, between Timor and Java, we steered a west course till six +o'clock the next morning, when we unexpectedly saw an island bearing +W.S.W., and at first I thought we had made a new discovery. We steered +directly for it, and by ten o'clock were close in with the north side of +it, where we saw houses, cocoa-nut trees, and to our very agreeable +surprise, numerous flocks of sheep. This was a temptation not to be +resisted by people in our situation, especially as many of us were in a +bad state of health, and many still repining at my not having touched at +Timor: It was, therefore soon determined to attempt a commerce with +people who appeared to be so well able to supply our many necessities, +and remove at once the sickness and discontent that had got footing +among us. The pinnace was hoisted out, and Mr Gore, the second +lieutenant, sent to see if there was any convenient place to land, +taking with him some trifles, as presents to the natives, if any of them +should appear. While he was gone, we saw from the ship two men on +horseback, who seemed to be riding upon the hills for their amusement, +and often stopped to look at the ship. By this we knew that the place +had been settled by Europeans, and hoped, that the many disagreeable +circumstances which always attend the first establishment of commerce +with savages, would be avoided. In the mean time, Mr Gore landed in a +small sandy cove near some houses, and was met by eight or ten of the +natives, who, as well in their dress as their persons, very much +resembled the Malays; They were without arms, except the knives which it +is their custom to wear in their girdles, and one of them had a jack-ass +with him: They courteously invited him ashore, and conversed with him by +signs, but very little of the meaning of either party could be +understood by the other. In a short time he returned with this report, +and, to our great mortification, added, that there was no anchorage for +the ship. I sent him however a second time, with both money and goods, +that he might, if possible, purchase some refreshments, at least for the +sick; and Dr Solander went in the boat with him. In the mean time I kept +standing on and off with the ship, which at this time was within about a +mile of the shore. Before the boat could land, we saw two other +horsemen, one of whom was in a complete European dress, consisting of a +blue coat, a white waistcoat, and a laced hat: These people, when the +boat came to the shore, took little notice of her, but sauntered about, +and seemed to look with great curiosity at the ship. We saw however +other horsemen, and a great number of persons on foot, gather round our +people, and, to our great satisfaction, perceived several cocoa-nuts +carried into the boat, from which we concluded that peace and commerce +were established between us. + +<p>After the boat had been ashore about an hour and a half, she made the +signal for having intelligence that there was a bay to leeward, where we +might anchor: We stood away directly for it, and the boat following, +soon came on board. The lieutenant told us, that he had seen some of the +principal people, who were dressed in fine linen, and had chains of gold +round their necks: He said, that he had not been able to trade, because +the owner of the cocoa-nuts was absent, but that about two dozen had +been sent to the boat as a present, and that some linen had been +accepted in return. The people, to give him the information that he +wanted, drew a map upon the sand, in which they made a rude +representation of a harbour to leeward, and a town near it: They also +gave him to understand, that sheep, hogs, fowls, and fruit might there +be procured in great plenty. Some of them frequently pronounced the word +Portuguese, and said something of Larntuca upon the island of Ende: From +this circumstance, we conjectured that there were Portuguese somewhere +upon the island, and a Portugueze, who was in our boat, attempted to +converse with the Indians in that language, but soon found that they +knew only a word or two of it by rote: One of them however, when they +were giving our people to understand that there was a town near the +harbour to which they had directed us, intimated, that, as a token of +going right, we should see somewhat, which he expressed by crossing his +fingers, and the Portuguese instantly conceived that he meant to express +a cross. Just as our people were putting off, the horsemen in the +European dress came up, but the officer not having his commission about +him, thought it best to decline a conference. + +<p>At seven o'clock in the evening, we came to an anchor in the bay to +which we had been directed, at about the distance of a mile from the +shore, in thirty-eight fathom water, with a clear sandy bottom. The +north point of the bay bore N. 30 E., distant two miles and a half, and +the south point, or west end of the island, bore S. 63 W. Just as we got +round the north point, and entered the bay, we discovered a large Indian +town or village, upon which we stood on, hoisting a jack on the fore +top-mast head: Soon after, to our great surprise, Dutch colours were +hoisted in the town, and three guns fired; we stood on, however, till we +had soundings and then anchored. + +<p>As soon as it was light in the morning, we saw the same colours hoisted +upon the beach, abreast of the ship; supposing therefore that the Dutch +had a settlement here, I sent Lieutenant Gore ashore, to wait upon the +governor, or the chief person residing upon the spot, and acquaint him +who we were, and for what purpose we had touched upon the coast. As soon +as he came ashore, he was received by a guard of between twenty and +thirty Indians, armed with musquets, who conducted him to the town, +where the colours had been hoisted the night before, carrying with them +those that had been hoisted upon the beach, and marching without any +military regularity. As soon as he arrived, he was introduced to the +Raja, or king of the island, and by a Portuguese interpreter told him, +that the ship was a man-of-war belonging to the king of Great Britain, +and that she had many sick on board, for whom we wanted to purchase such +refreshments as the island afforded. His majesty replied, that he was +willing to supply us with whatever we wanted, but, that being in +alliance with the Dutch East India Company, he was not at liberty to +trade with any other people, without having first procured their +consent, for which, however, he said he would immediately apply to a +Dutchman who belonged to the Company, and who was the only white man +upon the island. To this man, who resided at some distance, a letter was +immediately dispatched, acquainting him with our arrival and request: In +the mean time, Mr Gore dispatched a messenger to me, with an account of +his situation, and the state of the treaty. In about three hours, the +Dutch resident answered the letter that had been sent him, in person: He +proved to be a native of Saxony, and his name was Johan Christopher +Lange, and the same person whom we had seen on horseback in a European +dress: He behaved with great civility to Mr Gore, and assured him, that +we were at liberty to purchase of the natives whatever we pleased. After +a short time, he expressed a desire of coming on board, as did the king +also, and several of his attendants: Mr Gore intimated that he was ready +to attend them, but they desired that two of our people might be left +ashore as hostages, and in this also they were indulged. + +<p>About two o'clock, they all came aboard the ship, and our dinner being +ready, they accepted our invitation to partake of it: I expected them +immediately to sit down, but the king seemed to hesitate, and at last, +with some confusion, said, he did not imagine that we, who were white +men, would suffer him, who was of a different colour, to sit down in our +company; a compliment soon removed his scruples, and we all sat down +together with great cheerfulness and cordiality: Happily we were at no +loss for interpreters, both Dr Solander and Mr Sporing understanding +Dutch enough to keep up a conversation with Mr Lange, and several of the +seamen were able to converse with such of the natives as spoke +Portuguese. Our dinner happened to be mutton, and the king expressed a +desire of having an English sheep; we had but one left, however that was +presented to him: The facility with which this was procured, encouraged +him to ask for an English dog, and Mr Banks politely gave up his +greyhound: Mr Lange then intimated that a spying-glass would be +acceptable, and one was immediately put into his hand. Our guests then +told us, that the island abounded with buffaloes, sheep, hogs, and +fowls, plenty of which should be driven down to the beach the next day, +that we might purchase as many of them as we should think fit: This put +us all into high spirits, and the liquor circulated rather faster than +either the Indians or the Saxon could bear; they intimated their desire +to go away, however, before they were quite drunk, and were received +upon deck, as they had been when they came aboard, by the marines under +arms. The king expressed a curiosity to see them exercise, in which he +was gratified, and they fired three rounds: He looked at them with great +attention, and was much surprised at their regularity and expedition, +especially in cocking their pieces; the first time they did it, he +struck the side of the ship with a stick that he had in his hand, and +cried out with great vehemence, that all the locks made but one clink. +They were dismissed with many presents, and when they went away saluted +with nine guns: Mr Banks and Dr Solander went ashore with them; and as +soon as they put off they gave us three cheers. + +<p>Our gentlemen, when they came ashore, walked up with them to the town, +which consists of many houses, and some of them are large; they are +however nothing more than a thatched roof, supported over a boarded +floor, by pillars about four feet high. They produced some of their +palm-wine, which was the fresh unfermented juice of the tree; it had a +sweet, but not a disagreeable taste; and hopes were conceived that it +might contribute to recover our sick from the scurvy. Soon after it was +dark, Mr Banks and Dr Solander returned on board. + +<p>In the morning of the 19th I went ashore with Mr Banks, and several of +the officers and gentlemen, to return the king's visit; but my chief +business was to procure some of the buffaloes, sheep, and fowls, which +we had been told should be driven down to the beach. We were greatly +mortified to find that no steps had been taken to fulfil this promise; +however, we proceeded to the house of assembly, which, with two or three +more, had been erected by the Dutch East India Company, and are +distinguished from the rest by two pieces of wood resembling a pair of +cow's horns, one of which is set up at each end of the ridge that +terminates the roof; and these were certainly what the Indian intended +to represent by crossing his fingers, though our Portuguese, who was a +good catholic, construed the sign into a cross, which had persuaded us +that the settlement belonged to his countrymen. In this place we met Mr +Lange, and the king, whose name was A. Madocho Lomi Djara, attended by +many of the principal people. We told them that we had in the boat goods +of various kinds, which we proposed to barter for such refreshments as +they would give us in exchange, and desired leave to bring them on +shore; which being granted, they were brought ashore accordingly. We +then attempted to settle the price of the buffaloes, sheep, hogs, and +other commodities which we proposed to purchase, and for which we were +to pay in money; but as soon as this was mentioned, Mr Lange left us, +telling us that these preliminaries must be settled with the natives: He +said, however, that he had received a letter from the governor of +Concordia in Timor, the purport of which he would communicate to us when +he returned. + +<p>As the morning was now far advanced, and we were very unwilling to +return on board and eat salt provisions, when so many delicacies +surrounded us ashore, we petitioned his majesty for liberty to purchase +a small hog and some rice, and to employ his subjects to dress them for +us. He answered very graciously, that if we could eat victuals dressed +by his subjects, which he could scarcely suppose, he would do himself +the honour of entertaining us. We expressed our gratitude, and +immediately sent on board for liquors. + +<p>About five o'clock dinner was ready; it was served in six-and-thirty +dishes, or rather baskets, containing alternately rice and pork; and +three bowls of earthenware, filled with the liquor in which the pork had +been boiled: These were ranged upon the floor, and mats laid round them +for us to sit upon. We were then conducted by turns to a hole in the +floor, near which stood a man with water in a vessel, made of the leaves +of the fan-palm, who assisted us in washing our hands. When this was +done, we placed ourselves round the victuals, and waited for the king. +As he did not come, we enquired for him, and were told that the custom +of the country did not permit the person who gave the entertainment to +sit down with his guests; but that, if we suspected the victuals to be +poisoned, he would come and taste it. We immediately declared that we +had no such suspicion, and desired that none of the rituals of +hospitality might be violated on our account. The prime minister and Mr +Lange were of our party, and we made a most luxurious meal: We thought +the pork and rice excellent, and the broth not to be despised; but the +spoons, which were made of leaves, were so small, that few of us had +patience to use them. After dinner, our wine passed briskly about, and +we again enquired for our royal host, thinking that though the custom of +his country would not allow him to eat with us, he might at least share +in the jollity of one bottle; but he again excused himself, saying, that +the master of a feast should never be drunk, which there was no certain +way to avoid but by not tasting the liquor. We did not, however, drink +our wine where we had eaten our victuals; but as soon as we had dined, +made room for the seamen and servants, who immediately took our places: +They could not dispatch all that we had left, but the women who came to +clear away the bowls and baskets, obliged them to carry away with them +what they had not eaten. As wine generally warms and opens the heart, we +took an opportunity, when we thought its influence began to be felt, to +revive the subject of the buffaloes and sheep, of which we had not in +all this time heard a syllable, though they were to have been brought +down early in the morning. But our Saxon Dutchman, with great phlegm, +began to communicate to us the contents of the letter which he pretended +to have received from the governor of Concordia. He said, that after +acquainting him that a vessel had steered from thence towards the island +where we were now ashore, it required him, if such ship should apply for +provisions in distress, to relieve her; but not to suffer her to stay +longer than was absolutely necessary, nor to make any large presents to +the inferior people, or to leave any with those of superior rank to be +afterwards distributed among them; but he was graciously pleased to add, +that we were at liberty to give beads and other trifles in exchange for +petty civilities, and palm-wine. + +<p>It was the general opinion that this letter was a fiction; that the +prohibitory orders were feigned with a view to get money from us for +breaking them; and that by precluding our liberality to the natives, +this man hoped more easily to turn it into another channel. + +<p>In the evening, we received intelligence from our trading-place that no +buffaloes or hogs had been brought down, and only a few sheep, which had +been taken away before our people, who had sent for money, could procure +it. Some fowls, however, had been bought, and a large quantity of a +kind of syrup made of the juice of the palm-tree, which, though +infinitely superior to molasses or treacle, sold at a very low price. We +complained of our disappointment to Mr Lange, who had now another +subterfuge; he said, that if we had gone down to the beach ourselves, we +might have purchased what we pleased, but that the natives were afraid +to take money of our people, lest it should be counterfeit. We could not +but feel some indignation against a man who had concealed this, being +true; or alleged it, being false. I started up, however, and went +immediately to the beach, but no cattle or sheep were to be seen, nor +were any at hand to be produced. While I was gone, Lange, who knew well +enough that I should succeed no better than my people, told Mr Banks +that the natives were displeased at our not having offered them gold for +their stock; and that if gold was not offered, nothing would be bought. +Mr Banks did not think it worth his while to reply, but soon after rose +up, and we all returned on board, very much dissatisfied with the issue +of our negociations. During the course of the day, the king had promised +that some cattle and sheep should be brought down in the morning, and +had given a reason for our disappointment somewhat more plausible; he +said that the buffaloes were far up the country, and that there had not +been time to bring them down to the beach. + +<p>The next morning we went ashore again: Dr Solander went up to the town +to speak to Lange, and I remained upon the beach, to see what could be +done in the purchase of provisions. I found here an old Indian, who, as +he appeared to have some authority, we had among ourselves called the +prime minister; to engage this man in our interest, I presented him with +a spying-glass, but I saw nothing at market except one small buffalo. I +enquired the price of it, and was told five guineas: This was twice as +much as it was worth; however, I offered three, which I could perceive +the man who treated with me thought a good price; but he said he must +acquaint the king with what I had offered before he could take it. A +messenger was immediately dispatched to his majesty, who soon returned, +and said that the buffaloe would not be sold for any thing less than +five guineas. This price I absolutely refused to give; and another +messenger was sent away with an account of my refusal: This messenger +was longer absent than the other, and while I was waiting for his +return, I saw, to my great astonishment, Dr Solander coming from the +town, followed by above a hundred men, some armed with muskets and some +with lances. When I enquired the meaning of this hostile appearance, the +Doctor told me that Mr Lange had interpreted to him a message from the +king, purporting that the people would not trade with us, because we had +refused to give them more than half the value of what they had to sell; +and that we should not be permitted to trade upon any terms longer than +this day. Besides the officers who commanded the party, there came with +it a man who was born at Timor; of Portuguese parents, and who, as we +afterwards discovered, was a kind of colleague to the Dutch factor; by +this man, what they pretended to be the king's order was delivered to +me, of the same purport with that which Dr Solander had received from +Lange. We were all clearly of opinion that this was a mere artifice of +the factors to extort money from us, for which we had been prepared by +the account of a letter from Concordia; and while we were hesitating +what step to take, the Portuguese, that he might the sooner accomplish +his purpose, began to drive away the people who had brought down poultry +and syrup, and others that were now coming in with buffaloes and sheep. +At this time I glanced my eye upon the old man whom I had complimented +in the morning with the spying-glass, and I thought, by his looks, that +he did not heartily approve of what was doing; I therefore took him by +the hand, and presented him with an old broad-sword. This instantly +turned the scale in our favour; he received the sword with a transport +of joy, and flourishing it over the busy Portuguese, who crouched like a +fox to a lion, he made him, and the officer who commanded the party, sit +down upon the ground behind him. The people, who, whatever were the +crafty pretences of these iniquitous factors for a Dutch company, were +eager to supply us with whatever we wanted, and seemed also to be more +desirous of goods than money, instantly improved the advantage that had +been procured them, and the market was stocked almost in an instant. To +establish a trade for buffaloes, however, which I most wanted, I found +it necessary to give ten guineas for two, one of which weighed no more +than a hundred and sixty pounds; but I bought seven more much cheaper, +and might afterwards have purchased as many as I pleased almost upon my +own terms, for they were now driven down to the water-side in herds. In +the first two that I bought so dear, Lange had certainly a share, and it +was in hopes to obtain part of the price of others, that he had +pretended that we must pay for them in gold. The natives, however, sold +what they afterwards brought down much to their satisfaction, without +paying part of the price to him as a reward for exacting money from us. +Most of the buffaloes that we bought, after our friend, the prime +minister, had procured us a fair market, were sold for a musket a-piece, +and at this price we might have bought as many as would have freighted +our ship. + +<p>The refreshments which we procured here consisted of nine buffaloes, six +sheep, three hogs, thirty dozen of fowls, a few limes, and some +cocoa-nuts; many dozen of eggs, half of which, however, proved to be +rotten; a little garlic, and several hundred gallons of palm syrup. + +<p>SECTION XXXVI. + +<p><i>A particular Description of the Island of Savu, its Produce, and +Inhabitants, with a Specimen of their Language</i>. + +<p>This island is called by the natives <i>Savu</i>; the middle of it lies in +about the latitude 10° 35' S., longitude 237° 30' W.; and has in general +been so little known, that I never saw a map or chart in which it is +clearly or accurately laid down. I have seen a very old one, in which it +is called Sou, and confounded with Sandel Bosch. Rumphius mentions an +island by the name of Saow, and he also says that it is the same which +the Dutch call Sandel Bosch: But neither is this island, nor Timor, nor +Rotte, nor indeed any one of the islands that we have seen in these +seas, placed within a reasonable distance of its true situation.[105] It +is about eight leagues long from east to west; but what is its breadth, +I do not know, as I saw only the north side. The harbour in which we lay +is called Seba, from the district in which it lies: It is on the +north-west side of the island, and well sheltered from the south-west +trade-wind, but it lies open to the north-west. We were told that there +were two other bays where ships might anchor; that the best, called +Timo, was on the south-west side of the south-east point: Of the third +we learnt neither the name nor situation. The sea-coast, in general, is +low; but in the middle of the island there are hills of a considerable +height. We were upon the coast at the latter end of the dry season, when +there had been no rain for seven months; and we were told that when the +dry season continues so long, there is no running stream of fresh water +upon the whole island, but only small springs, which are at a +considerable distance from the sea-side; yet nothing can be imagined so +beautiful as the prospect of the country from the ship. The level ground +next to the sea-side was covered with cocoa-nut trees, and a kind of +palm called <i>arecas</i>; and beyond them the hills, which rose in a gentle +and regular ascent, were richly clothed, quite to the summit, with +plantations of the fan-palm, forming an almost impenetrable grove. How +much even this prospect must be improved, when every foot of ground +between the trees is covered with verdure, by maize, and millet, and +indigo, can scarcely be conceived but by a powerful imagination, not +unacquainted with the stateliness and beauty of the trees that adorn +this part of the earth. The dry season commences in March or April, and +ends in October or November. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 105: These islands are far from being well known to Europeans; +The policy of both Portuguese and Dutch has ever been unfavourable to +the communication, whatever it may have been to the commercial +extension, of geographical science. Pinkerton has laid down (in his map +of East India isles) Sou, as he has chosen to call it, in 10 S. lat., +and 121° 30' E. long., but on what authority does not appear. He does +not, however, confound it with Sandle-Wood Island.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The principal trees of this island are the fan-palm, the cocoa-nut, +tamarind, limes, oranges, and mangoes; and other vegetable productions +are maize, Guinea-corn, rice, millet, callevances, and water-melons. We +saw also one sugar-cane, and a few kinds of European garden-stuff, +particularly cellery, marjoram, fennel, and garlic. For the supply of +luxury, it has betel, areca, tobacco, cotton, indigo, and a small +quantity of cinnamon, which seems to be planted here only for curiosity; +and indeed we doubted whether it was the genuine plant, knowing that the +Dutch are very careful not to trust the spices out of their proper +islands. There are, however, several kinds of fruit besides those which +have been already mentioned; particularly the sweet-sop, which is well +known to the West Indians, and a small oval fruit, called the <i>blimbi</i>, +both of which grow upon trees. The blimbi is about three or four inches +long, and in the middle about as thick as a man's finger, tapering +towards each end: It is covered with a very thin skin of a light green +colour, and in the inside are a few seeds disposed in the form of a +star: Its flavour is a light, clean, pleasant acid, but it cannot be +eaten raw; it is said to be excellent as a pickle; and stewed, it made a +most agreeable sour sauce to our boiled dishes. + +<p>The tame animals are buffaloes, sheep, goats, hogs, fowls, pigeons, +horses, asses, dogs, and cats; and of all these there is great plenty. +The buffaloes differ very considerably from the horned cattle of Europe +in several particulars; their ears are much larger, their skins are +almost without hair, their horns are curved towards each other, but +together bend directly backwards, and they have no dewlaps. We saw +several that were as big as a well-grown European ox, and there must be +some much larger; for Mr Banks saw a pair of horns which measured, from +tip to tip, three feet nine inches and a half, across their widest +diameter, four feet one inch and a half, and in the whole sweep of their +semicircle in front, seven feet six inches and a half. It must, however, +be observed, that a buffalo here of any given size, does not weigh above +half as much as an ox of the same size in England: Those that we guessed +to weigh four hundred weight, did not weigh more than two hundred and +fifty; the reason is, that so late in the dry season the bones are very +thinly covered with flesh: There is not an ounce of fat in a whole +carcase, and the flanks are literally nothing but skin and bone: The +flesh, however, is well tasted and juicy, and I suppose better than the +flesh of an English ox would be if he was to starve in this sun-burnt +country. + +<p>The horses are from eleven to twelve hands high, but though they are +small, they are spirited and nimble, especially in pacing, which is +their common step: The inhabitants generally ride them without a saddle, +and with no better bridle than a halter. The sheep are of the kind which +in England are called Bengal sheep, and differ from ours in many +particulars. They are covered with hair instead of wool; their ears are +very large, and hang down under their horns, and their noses are arched; +they are thought to have a general resemblance to a goat, and for that +reason are frequently called <i>cabritos</i>: Their flesh we thought the +worst mutton we had ever eaten, being as lean as that of the buffaloes, +and without flavour. The hogs, however, were some of the fattest we had +ever seen, though, as we were told, their principal food is the outside +husks of rice, and a palm syrup dissolved in water.[106] The fowls are +chiefly of the game breed, and large, but the eggs are remarkably small. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 106: The reader will please remember this evidence of the +nutritious quality of the palm-syrup. He will find it useful very +shortly, when the value of sugar as an article of diet is mentioned.--E]--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Of the fish which the sea produces here, we know but little: Turtles are +sometimes found upon the coast, and are by these people, as well as all +others, considered as a dainty. + +<p>The people are rather under than over the middling size; the women +especially are remarkably short and squat built: Their complexion is a +dark brown, and their hair universally black and lank. We saw no +difference in the colour of rich and poor, though in the South-Sea +islands those that were exposed to the weather were almost as brown as +the New Hollanders, and the better sort nearly as fair as the natives of +Europe. The men are in general well-made, vigorous, and active, and have +a greater variety in the make and disposition of their features than +usual: The countenances of the women, on the contrary, are all alike. + +<p>The men fasten their hair up to the top of their heads with a comb, the +women tie it behind in a club, which is very far from becoming. Both +sexes eradicate the hair from under the arm, and the men do the same by +their beards, for which purpose, the better sort always carry a pair of +silver pincers hanging by a string round their necks; some, however, +suffer a very little hair to remain upon their upper-lips, but this is +always kept short. + +<p>The dress of both sexes consists of cotton cloth, which being dyed blue +in the yarn, and not uniformly of the same shade, is in clouds or waves +of that colour, and even in our eye had not an inelegant appearance. +This cloth they manufacture themselves, and two pieces, each about two +yards long, and a yard and a half wide, make a dress: One of them is +worn round the middle, and the other covers the upper part of the body: +The lower edge of the piece that goes round the middle, the men draw +pretty tight just below the fork, the upper edge of it is left loose, so +as to form a kind of hollow belt, which serves them as a pocket to carry +their knives, and other little implements which it is convenient to have +about them. The other piece of cloth is passed through this girdle +behind, and one end of it being brought over the left shoulder, and the +other over the right, they fall down over the breast, and are tucked +into the girdle before, so that by opening or closing the plaits, they +can cover more or less of their bodies as they please; the arms, legs, +and feet are always naked. The difference between the dress of the two +sexes consists principally in the manner of wearing the waist-piece; for +the women, instead of drawing the lower edge tight, and leaving the +upper edge loose for a pocket, draw the upper edge tight, and let the +lower edge fall as low as the knees, so as to form a petticoat; the +body-piece, instead of being passed through the girdle, is fastened +under the arms, and cross the breast with the utmost decency. I have +already observed that the men fastened the hair upon the top of the +head, and the women tie it in a club behind, but there is another +difference in the head-dress, by which the sexes are distinguished: The +women wear nothing as a succedaneum for a cap, but the men constantly +wrap something round their heads in the manner of a fillet; it is small, +but generally of the finest materials that can be procured: We saw some +who applied silk handkerchiefs to this purpose, and others that wore +fine cotton, or muslin, in the manner of a small turban. + +<p>These people bore their testimony that the love of finery is a universal +passion, for their ornaments were very numerous. Some of the better sort +wore chains of gold round their necks, but they were made of plaited +wire, and consequently were light and of little value; others had rings, +which were so much worn that they seemed to have descended through many +generations; and one person had a silver-headed cane, marked with a kind +of cypher, consisting of the Roman letters, V, O, C, and therefore +probably a present from the Dutch East India Company, whose mark it is: +They have also ornaments made of beads, which some wear round their +necks as a solitaire, and others as bracelets, upon their wrists: These +are common to both sexes, but the women have, besides, strings or +girdles of beads, which they wear round their waists, and which serve +to keep up their petticoat. Both sexes had their ears bored, nor was +there a single exception that fell under our notice, yet we never saw an +ornament in any of them; we never, indeed, saw either man or woman in +any thing but what appeared to be their ordinary dress, except the king +and his minister, who in general wore a kind of night-gown of coarse +chintz, and one of whom once received us in a black robe, which appeared +to be made of what is called prince's stuff. We saw some boys, about +twelve or fourteen years old, who had spiral circles of thick brass-wire +passed three or four times round their arms, above the elbow, and some +men wore rings of ivory, two inches in breadth, and above an inch in +thickness, upon the same part of the arm; these, we were told, were the +sons of the rajas, or chiefs, who wore those cumbrous ornaments as +badges of their high birth. + +<p>Almost all the men had their names traced upon their arms, in indelible +characters of a black colour, and the women had a square ornament of +flourished lines, impressed in the same manner, just under the bend of +the elbow. We were struck with the similitude between these marks and +those made by tattowing in the South-Sea islands, and upon enquiring +into its origin, we learnt that it had been practised by the natives +long before any Europeans came among them, and that in the neighbouring +islands the inhabitants were marked with circles upon their necks and +breasts. The universality of this practice, which prevails among savages +in all parts of the world, from the remotest limits of North America, to +the islands in the South-Seas, and which probably differs but little +from the method of staining the body that was in use among the ancient +inhabitants of Britain, is a curious subject of speculation.[107] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 107: In the account which Mr Bossu has given of some Indians +who inhabit the banks of the Akanza, a river of North America, which +rises in New Mexico, and falls into the Mississippi, he relates the +following incident: "The Akanzas," says he, "have adopted me, and as a +mark of my privilege, have imprinted the figure of a roebuck upon my +thigh, which was done in this manner: An Indian having burnt some straw, +diluted the ashes with water, and with this mixture drew the figure upon +my skin; he then retraced it, by pricking the lines with needles, so as +at every puncture just to draw the blood, and the blood mixing with the +ashes of the straw, forms a figure which can never be effaced." See +Travels through Louisiana, vol. i, p. 107.]--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>So far this note is by Dr Hawkesworth. Some observations on the practice +of staining or tattowing the body, have been offered in another part of +this work. It may be worth while to add here the account which +Krustenstern has given of the mode adopted in Nukahiwa, one of the +Washington Islands: "As soon as a Nukahiewer arrives at the age of +puberty, his whole body is tatooed; an art carried to a much greater +perfection in this island than in any other, as they paint, in fact, +their bodies with different figures, rubbing a pleasing colour into the +skin, which is first scratched until it bleeds. Black is the colour +generally used for this purpose, which, after some time, takes a bluish +tinge. The king, his father, and the high-priest, were the only persons +who were coloured quite black, nor was any part of their bodies left +unadorned; the face, eye-lids, and even a part of their heads, from +which the hair had been shaved, being tatooed. Neither in the Society +nor the Friendly Islands is this customary. In the latter, the king +alone is not tatooed; and it is only in New Zealand, and the Sandwich +Islands, as Captain King relates, where the face is tatooed. The New +Zealander and the Nukahiwer have a similar mode of performing this +operation; for instance, they not only mark the body with single upright +figures, or animals, as in the Sandwich Islands, but represent upon it, +in the most perfect symmetry, connected ornaments in concentric rings +and knots, which added greatly to the beauty of its appearance. The +women only tatoo their hands and arms, the ends of their ears, and their +lips. The lower classes are less tatooed, and many of them not at all; +and it is therefore not improbable that this ornament serves to point +out a noble, or, at any rate, a distinguished personage. There are some +among them who have particularly acquired this art; one of whom took up +his residence on board the ship, where he found sufficient employment, +as almost all the sailors underwent the operation." Figures of animals +are favourite decorations for the skin with some people. Hutchinson, in +his History of Massachusets Bay, second edition, tells of the +natives,--"Upon their cheeks, and in many parts of their bodies, some of +them, by incisions, into which they convey a black unchangeable ink, +make the figures of bears, deer, moose, wolves, eagles, hawks, &c, which +were indelible, and generally lasted as long as they lived." Not content +with their own art of embellishment, however, he says, in a note, "Since +they have been furnished with paints from Europe, they daub their faces +with vermillion, and sometimes with blue, green, and other colours." +Colden observes of the five nations of Canada, that their faces were +always painted in a frightful manner when they went out to war, "to make +themselves terrible to their enemies." Neal, speaking of the New +Englanders, says,--"They grease their bodies and hair very often, and +paint themselves all over; their faces and shoulders with a deep red, +and their bodies with a variety of ugly mishapen figures; and he is the +bravest fellow that has the most frightful forms drawn upon him, and +looks most terrible." Again, describing their diversions, "If the +dancers or actors are to shew warlike postures, then they come in +painted for war, some with their faces red, and some black; some black +and red, with streaks of white; under their eyes, as they imagine will +appear most terrible." Captain Carver gives a similar account of the +tribes he saw. + +<p>The houses of Savu are all built upon the same plan, and differ only in +size, being large in proportion to the rank and riches of the +proprietor. Some are four hundred feet long, and some are not more than +twenty: They are all raised upon posts, or piles, about four feet high, +one end of which is driven into the ground, and upon the other end is +laid a substantial floor of wood, so that there is a vacant space of +four feet between the floor of the house and the ground. Upon this floor +are placed other posts or pillars, that Support a roof of sloping sides, +which meet in a ridge at the top, like those of our barns: The eaves of +this roof, which is thatched with palm-leaves, reach within two feet of +the floor, and overhang it as much: The space within is generally +divided lengthwise into three equal parts; the middle part, or centre, +is enclosed by a partition of four sides, reaching about six feet above +the floor, and one or two small rooms are also sometimes taken off from +the sides, the rest of the space under the roof is open, so as freely to +admit the air and the light: The particular uses of these different +apartments, our short stay would not permit us to learn, except that the +close room in the centre was appropriated to the women. + +<p>The food of these people consists of every tame animal in the country, +of which the hog holds the first place in their estimation, and the +horse the second; next to the horse is the buffalo, next to the buffalo +their poultry, and they prefer dogs and cats to sheep and goats. They +are not fond of fish, and, I believe, it is never eaten but by the poor +people, nor by them except when their duty or business requires them to +be upon the beach, and then every man is furnished with a light +casting-net, which is girt round him, and makes part of his dress; and +with this he takes any small fish which happen to come in his way. + +<p>The esculent vegetables and fruits have been mentioned already, but the +fan-palm requires more particular notice, for at certain times it is a +succedaneum for all other food both to man and beast. A kind of wine, +called toddy, is procured from this tree, by cutting the buds which are +to produce flowers, soon after their appearance, and tying under them +small baskets, made of the leaves, which are so close as to hold liquids +without leaking. The juice which trickles into these vessels is +collected by persons who climb the trees for that purpose, morning and +evening, and is the common drink of every individual upon the island; +yet a much greater quantity is drawn off than is consumed in this use, +and of the surplus they make both a syrup and coarse sugar. The liquor +is called <i>dua</i>, or <i>duac</i>, and both the syrup and sugar, <i>gula</i>. The +syrup is prepared by boiling the liquor down in pots of earthen-ware, +till it is sufficiently inspissated; it is not unlike treacle in +appearance, but is somewhat thicker, and has a much more agreeable +taste: The sugar is of a reddish brown, perhaps the same with the Jugata +sugar upon the continent of India, and it was more agreeable to our +palates than any cane-sugar, unrefined, that we had ever tasted. We were +at first afraid that the syrup, of which some of our people eat very +great quantities, would have brought on fluxes, but its aperient quality +was so very slight, that what effect it produced was rather salutary +than hurtful. I have already observed, that it is given with the husks +of rice to the hogs, and that they grow enormously fat without taking +any other food: We were told also, that this syrup is used to fatten +their dogs and their fowls, and that the inhabitants themselves have +subsisted upon this alone for several months, when other crops have +failed, and animal food has been scarce.[108] The leaves of this tree +are also put to various uses, they thatch houses, and make baskets, +cups, umbrellas, and tobacco-pipes. The fruit is least esteemed, and as +the blossoms are wounded for the tuac or toddy, there is not much of it: +It is about as big as a large turnip, and covered, like the cocoa-nut, +with a fibrous coat, under which are three kernels, that must be eaten +before they are ripe, for afterwards they become so hard that they +cannot be chewed; in their eatable state they taste not unlike a green +cocoa-nut, and, like them, probably they yield a nutriment that is +watery and unsubstantial. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 108: Few things are so nutritious to animals as sugar; and +vegetable substances, in general, are nutritious in proportion to the +quantity of it they contain. How it can be pernicious, then, as an +ingredient in diet, it would be very difficult to show, without +disparaging the wisdom and goodness by which the world is supported. But +in fact there is not the least reason for such an opinion; and if the +strongest assertions of most respectable men are at all to be regarded, +a very different one, indeed, must be maintained. A few quotations may +satisfy the reader on the subject, and dispossess him of unfounded +prejudices <i>reluctantly</i> imbibed in the nursery. "So palatable, +salutary, and nourishing is the juice of the cane, that every individual +of the animal creation drinking freely of it, derives health and vigour +from its use. The meagre and sickly among the negroes exhibit a +surprising alteration in a few weeks after the mill is set in action. +The labouring horses, oxen, and mules, though almost constantly at work +during this season, yet being indulged with plenty of the green tops of +this noble plant, and some of the scummings from the boiling-house, +improve more than at any one period of the year. Even the pigs and +poultry fatten on the refuse." So says Mr Edwards. Two physicians quoted +by him speak to the same effect,--take the words of one of them; Dr +Rush, of Philadelphia,--"Sugar affords the greatest quantity of +nourishment in a given quantity of matter, of any substance in nature. +Used alone, it has fattened horses and cattle in St Domingo, for a +period of several months. The plentiful use of sugar in diet is one of +the best preventatives that ever has been discovered, of the diseases +which are produced by worms. The plague has never been known in this +country, where sugar composes a material part of the diet of the +inhabitants." Dr Mosely, in his Treatise on Sugar, speaks equally +confidently of the nutritious and beneficial effects of this substance. +Now, indeed, the concurrent testimony and opinions of medical men are so +decided on the subject, that it seems impossible to entertain any other +sentiment. The principal objection to the use of sugar in diet, is what +applies to certain cases only, when the stomach and bowels are +<i>particularly</i> disordered, or where there is a strong tendency to an +over full state of the blood-vessels, tending to the production of palsy +or apoplexy, which this article, from its very nutritious properties, +and because also it perhaps undergoes a sort of fermentation in the +stomach, by which something of the nature of wine may be produced, would +be apt rather to augment.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The common method of dressing food here is by boiling, and as fire-wood +is very scarce, and the inhabitants have no other fuel, they make use of +a contrivance to save it, that is not wholly unknown in Europe, but is +seldom practised, except in camps. They dig a hollow under ground, in a +horizontal direction, like a rabbit-burrow, about two yards long, and +opening into a hole at each end, one of which is large, and the other +small: By the large hole the fire is put in, and the small one serves +for a draught. The earth over this burrow is perforated by circular +holes, which communicate with the cavity below; and in these holes are +set earthen pots, generally about three to each fire, which are large in +the middle, and taper towards the bottom, so that the fire acts upon a +large part of their surface. Each of these pots generally contains about +eight or ten gallons, and it is surprising to see with how small a +quantity of fire they may be kept boiling; a palm-leaf, or a dry stalk +thrust in now and then, is sufficient: In this manner they boil all +their victuals, and make all their syrup and sugar. It appears by +Frazier's account of his voyage to the South-Sea, that the Peruvian +Indians have a contrivance of the same kind, and perhaps it might be +adopted with advantage by the poor people even of this country, where +fuel is very dear. + +<p>Both sexes are enslaved by the hateful and pernicious habit of chewing +betel and areca, which they contract even while they are children, and +practise incessantly from morning till night. With these they always mix +a kind of white lime, made of coral stone and shells, and frequently a +small quantity of tobacco, so that their mouths are disgustful in the +highest degree both to the smell and the sight: The tobacco taints their +breath, and the betel and lime make the teeth not only as black as +charcoal, but as rotten too. I have seen men between twenty and thirty, +whose fore-teeth have been consumed almost down to the gums, though no +two of them were exactly of the same length or thickness, but +irregularly corroded, like iron by rust. The loss of teeth is, I think, +by all who have written upon the subject, imputed to the tough and +stringy coat of the areca-nut; but I impute it wholly to the lime: They +are not loosened, or broken, or forced out, as might be expected if they +were injured by the continual chewing of hard and rough substances, but +they are gradually wasted like metals that are exposed to the action of +powerful acids; the stumps always adhering firmly to the socket in the +jaw, when there is no part of the tooth above the gums: And possibly +those who suppose that sugar has a bad effect upon the teeth of +Europeans, may not be mistaken, for it is well known that refined +loaf-sugar contains a considerable quantity of lime; and he that doubts +whether lime will destroy bone of any kind, may easily ascertain the +fact by experiment.[109] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 109: The injurious effect of sugar on the teeth, it is +believed, is not now seriously contended for by any persons who think +and make observations on the matter, though, undoubtedly, the assertion +respecting it holds its place as strongly as ever, among the economical +maxims of prudent matrons. A word or two as to lime. When this is spoken +of, let it be understood always what is meant; whether pure lime, that +is what is called burnt lime, or the same substance in combination with +fixed air, or carbonic acid, of which the process of burning deprives +it. The effects of these two preparations are exceedingly different on +animal bodies; the former causing rapid decomposition and consumption; +the latter being, on the contrary, quite inert. Loaf-sugar, though +prepared by means of lime, ought never to contain a particle of it, and +scarcely ever does. So that, on the whole, the remarks in the text are +totally incorrect. As a matter of fact, again, the writer, from his own +experience, and as what he has often occasion to recommend to others, +takes the liberty of prescribing a tooth-powder, equal in comfort, +efficacy, and safety, to any sold in the shops under such pompous and +imposing titles. It consists of equal parts of lump-sugar, (the finer +the better) Spanish or French chalk, (which is in fact lime) rose-pink, +(for the purpose of colouring, and also as an absorbent) and oris-root, +(remarkable for its pleasant smell, and to be had in the perfumers' or +druggists' shops, ready powdered) all in very fine powder, and properly +mixed together. A box of this never-to-be-excelled dentifrice, may cost +two-pence, or so, for which, however, or for something else not a whit +better, if as good, they who choose may give half-a-crown. When the +teeth are already tolerably clean, and not encrusted with what is called +tartar, a soft brush is always to be preferred, as risking the enamel +less. Hard brushes and gritty powders ruin more teeth than all the sugar +and lime in the world. Charcoal is undoubtedly a good substitute for a +<i>tooth-powder</i>; but it is to be objected to as leaving black furrows in +the gums, which even much washing fails to remove in any reasonable +time. This is a good deal obviated when it forms but a part of the +article used. It may be mixed with the powder recommended.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>If the people here are at any time without this odious mouthful, they +are smoking. This operation they perform by rolling up a small quantity +of tobacco, and putting it into one end of a tube about six inches long, +and as thick as a goose-quill, which they make of a palm leaf. As the +quantity of tobacco in these pipes is very small, the effect of it is +increased, especially among the women, by swallowing the smoke. + +<p>When the natives of this island were first formed into civil society, is +not certainly known, but at present it is divided into five +principalities or nigrees: <i>Laai</i>, <i>Seba</i>, <i>Regeeua</i>, <i>Timo</i>, and +<i>Massara</i>, each of which is governed by its respective raja or king. The +raja of Seba, the principality in which we were ashore, seemed to have +great authority, without much external parade or show, or much +appearance of personal respect. He was about five-and-thirty years of +age, and the fattest man we saw upon the whole island; he appeared to +be of a dull phlegmatic disposition, and to be directed almost +implicitly by the old man who, upon my presenting him with a sword, had +procured us a fair market, in spite of the craft and avarice of the +Dutch-factors. The name of this person was <i>Mannu Djarme</i>, and it may +reasonably be supposed that he was a man of uncommon integrity and +abilities, as, notwithstanding his possession of power in the character +of a favourite, he was beloved by the whole principality. If any +difference arises among the people, it is settled by the raja and his +counsellors, without delay or appeal, and, as we were told, with the +most solemn deliberation and impartial justice. + +<p>We were informed by Mr Lange, that the chiefs who had successively +presided over the five principalities of this island, had lived for time +immemorial in the strictest alliance and most cordial friendship with +each other; yet he said the people were of a warlike disposition, and +had always courageously defended themselves against foreign invaders. We +were told also that the island was able to raise, upon very short +notice, 7300 fighting men, armed with muskets, spears, lances, and +targets. Of this force, Laai was said to furnish 2600; Seba, 2000; +Regeeua, 1500; Timo, 800; and Massara, 400. Besides the arms that have +been already mentioned, each man is furnished with a large pole-ax, +resembling a wood-bill, except that it has a straight edge, and is much +heavier: This, in the hands of people who have courage to come to close +quarters with an enemy, must be a dreadful weapon; and we were told that +they were so dexterous with their lances, that at the distance of sixty +feet they would throw them with such exactness as to pierce a man's +heart, and such force as to go quite through his body. + +<p>How far this account of the martial prowess of the inhabitants of Savu +may be true, we cannot take upon us to determine; but during our stay, +we saw no appearance of it. We saw indeed in the town-house, or house of +assembly, about one hundred spears and targets, which served to arm the +people who were sent down to intimidate us at the trading place; but +they seemed to be the refuse of old armories, no two being of the same +make or length, for some were six, and some sixteen feet long: We saw no +lance among them, and as to the muskets, though they were clean on the +outside, they were eaten into holes by the rust within; and the people +themselves appeared to be so little acquainted with military discipline, +that they marched like a disorderly rabble, every one having, instead of +his target, a cock, some tobacco, or other merchandise of the like +kind, which he took that opportunity to bring down to sell, and few or +none of their cartridge-boxes were furnished with either powder or ball, +though a piece of paper was thrust into the hole to save appearances. We +saw a few swivel guns and pateraros at the town-house, and a great gun +before it; but the swivels and pateraros lay out of their carriages, and +the great gun lay upon a heap of stones, almost consumed with rust, with +the touch-hole downwards, possibly to conceal its size, which might +perhaps be little less than that of the bore. + +<p>We could not discover that among these people there was any rank of +distinction between the raja and the landowners: The land-owners were +respectable in proportion to their possessions; the inferior ranks +consist of manufacturers, labouring poor, and slaves. The slaves, like +the peasants in some parts of Europe, are connected with the estate, and +both descend together: But though the landowner can sell his slave, he +has no other power over his person, not even to correct him, without the +privity and approbation of the raja. Some have five hundred of these +slaves, and some not half a dozen: The common price of them is a fat +hog. When a great man goes out, he is constantly attended by two or more +of them: One of them carries a sword or hanger, the hilt of which is +commonly of silver, and adorned with large tassels of horse hair; and +another carries a bag which contains betel, areca, lime, and tobacco. In +these attendants consists all their magnificence, for the raja himself +has no other mark of distinction. + +<p>The chief object of pride among these people, like that of a Welchman, +is a long pedigree of respectable ancestors, and indeed a veneration for +antiquity seems to be carried farther here than in any other country: +Even a house that has been well inhabited for many generations, becomes +almost sacred, and few articles either of use or luxury bear so high a +price as stones, which having been long sat upon, are become even and +smooth: Those who can purchase such stones, or are possessed of them by +inheritance, place them round their houses, where they serve as seats +for their dependants.[110] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 110: The specification of the Welch here is very vulgar, and +the more so, as obviously sarcastic. Deeper or more scientific +observation would have led Dr Hawkesworth to some general principle +which produces a love of ancestry in all our species. Mr Gibbon has very +expressively described it, in the beginning of the memoirs of his own +life, to which the reader is referred. Nothing is less becoming a +philosopher, than wittily pointing out national peculiarities, without +taking the least pains to discover the foundations on which they are +built, or connecting them with circumstances and principles common to +mankind. Every thing, in fact, will seem anomalous and insulated in the +history of different nations, if it is not distinctly recollected that +human nature is the same throughout the globe which it inhabits, and is +merely modified by external causes.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Every Raja sets up in the principal town of his province, or nigree, a +large stone, which serves as a memorial of his reign. In the principal +town of Seba, where we lay, there are thirteen such stones, besides many +fragments of others, which had been set up in earlier times, and are now +mouldering away: These monuments seem to prove that some kind of civil +establishment here is of considerable antiquity. The last thirteen +reigns in England make something more than 276 years. + +<p>Many of these stones are so large, that it is difficult to conceive by +what means they were brought to their present station, especially as it +is the summit of a hill; but the world is full of memorials of human +strength, in which the mechanical powers that have been since added by +mathematical science, seem to be surpassed; and of such monuments there +are not a few among the remains of barbarous antiquity in our own +country, besides those upon Salisbury plain. + +<p>These stones not only record the reigns of successive princes, but serve +for a purpose much more extraordinary, and probably altogether peculiar +to this country. When a raja dies, a general feast is proclaimed +throughout his dominions, and all his subjects assemble round these +stones: Almost every living creature that can be caught is then killed, +and the feast lasts for a less or greater number of weeks or months, as +the kingdom happens to be more or lets furnished with live stock at the +time; the stones serve for tables. When this madness is over, a fast +must necessarily ensue, and the whole kingdom is obliged to subsist upon +syrup and water, if it happens in the dry season, when no vegetables can +be procured, till a new stock of animals can be raised from the few that +have escaped by chance, or been preserved by policy from the general +massacre, or can be procured from the neighbouring kingdoms. Such, +however, is the account that we received from Mr Lange. + +<p>We had no opportunity to examine any of their manufactures, except that +of their cloth, which they spin, weave, and dye; we did not indeed see +them employed, but many of the instruments which they use fell in our +way. We saw their machine for clearing cotton of its seeds, which is +made upon the same principles as those in Europe, but is so small that +it might be taken for a model, or a toy: It consists of two cylinders, +like our round rulers, somewhat less than an inch in diameter, one of +which, being turned round by a plain winch, turns the other by means of +an endless worm; and the whole machine is not more than fourteen inches +long, and seven high: That which we saw had been much used, and many +pieces of cotton were hanging about it, so that there is no reason to +doubt its being a fair specimen of the rest. We also once saw their +apparatus for spinning; it consisted of a bobbin, on which was wound a +small quantity of thread, and a kind of distaff filled with cotton; we +conjectured therefore that they spin by hand, as the women of Europe did +before the introduction of wheels; and I am told that they have not yet +found their way into some parts of it. Their loom seemed to be in one +respect preferable to ours, for the web was not stretched upon a frame, +but extended by a piece of wood at each end, round one of which the +cloth was rolled, and round the other the threads: The web was about +half a yard broad, and the length of the shuttle was equal to the +breadth of the web, so that probably their work goes on but slowly. That +they dyed this cloth we first guessed from its colour, and from the +indigo which we saw in their plantations; and our conjecture was +afterwards confirmed by Mr Lange's account. I have already observed, +that it is dyed in the yarn, and we once saw them dying what was said to +be girdles for the women, of a dirty red, but with what drug we did not +think it worth while to enquire. + +<p>The religion of these people, according to Mr Lange's information, is an +absurd kind of paganism, every man chusing his own god, and determining +for himself how he should be worshipped; so that there are almost as +many gods and modes of worship as people. In their morals, however, they +are said to be irreproachable, even upon the principles of Christianity: +No man is allowed more than one wife; yet an illicit commerce between +the sexes is in a manner unknown among them: Instances of theft are very +rare; and they are so far from revenging a supposed injury by murder, +that if any difference arises between them, they will not so much as +make it the subject of debate, lest they should be provoked to +resentment and ill-will, but immediately and implicitly refer it to the +determination of their king. + +<p>They appeared to be a healthy and long-lived people; yet some of them +were marked with the small-pox, which Mr Lange told us had several times +made its appearance among them, and was treated with the same precaution +as the plague. As soon as a person was seized with the distemper, he +was removed to some solitary place, very remote from any habitation, +where the disease was left to take its course, and the patient supplied +with daily food by reaching it to him at the end of a long pole. + +<p>Of their domestic economy we could learn but little: In one instance, +however, their delicacy and cleanliness are very remarkable. Many of us +were ashore here three successive days, from a very early hour in the +morning till it was dark; yet we never saw the least trace of an +offering to Cloacina, nor could we so much as guess where they were +made. In a country so populous this is very difficult to be accounted +for, and perhaps there is no other country in the world where the secret +is so effectually kept. + +<p>The boats in use here are a kind of proa. + +<p>This island was settled by the Portugueze almost as soon as they first +found their way into this part of the ocean; but they were in a short +time supplanted by the Dutch. The Dutch however did not take possession +of it, but only sent sloops to trade with the natives, probably for +provisions to support the inhabitants of their spice islands, who, +applying themselves wholly to the cultivation of that important article +of trade, and laying out all their ground in plantations, can breed few +animals: Possibly their supplies by this occasional traffic were +precarious; possibly they were jealous of being supplanted in their +turn; but however that be, their East India Company, about ten years +before, entered into a treaty with the rajas, by which the Company +stipulated to furnish each of them with a certain quantity of silk, fine +linen, cutlery ware, arrack, and other articles, every year; and the +rajas engaged that neither they nor their subjects should trade with any +person except the Company, without having first obtained their consent, +and that they would admit a resident on behalf of the Company, to reside +upon the island, and see that their part of the treaty was fulfilled: +They also engaged to supply annually a certain quantity of rice, maize, +and calevances. The maize and calevances are sent to Timor in sloops, +which are kept there for that purpose, each of which is navigated by ten +Indians; and the rice is fetched away annually by a ship which brings +the Company's returns, and anchors alternately in each of the three +bays. These returns are delivered to the rajas in the form of a +present, and the cask of arrack they and their principal people never +cease to drink, as long as a drop of it remains. In consequence of this +treaty, the Dutch placed three persons upon the island: Mr Lange, his +colleague, the native of Timor, the son of an Indian woman by a +Portuguese, and one Frederick Craig, the son of an Indian woman by a +Dutchman. Lange visited each of the rajas once in two months, when he +made the tour of the island, attended by fifty slaves on horseback. He +exhorted these chiefs to plant, if it appeared that they had been +remiss, and observed where the crops were got in, that he might order +sloops to fetch it; so that it passed immediately from the ground to the +Dutch store-houses at Timor. In these excursions he always carried with +him some bottles of arrack, which he found of great use in opening the +hearts of the rajas, with whom he had to deal. + +<p>During the ten years that he had resided upon this island he had never +seen a European besides ourselves, except at the arrival of the Dutch +ship, which had sailed about two months before we arrived; and he was to +be distinguished from the natives only by his colour and his dress, for +he sate upon the ground, chewed his betel, and in every respect adopted +their character and manners: He had married an Indian woman of the +island of Timor, who kept his house after the fashion of her country; +and he gave that as a reason for not inviting us to visit him, saying, +that he could entertain us in no other manner than the Indians had done, +and he spoke no language readily but that of the country. + +<p>The office of Mr Frederick Craig was to instruct the youth of the +country in reading and writing, and the principles of the Christian +religion; the Dutch having printed versions of the New Testament, a +catechism, and several other tracts, in the language of this and the +neighbouring islands. Dr Solander, who was at his house, saw the books, +and the copy-books also, of his scholars, many of whom wrote a very fair +hand. He boasted that there were no less than six hundred Christians in +the township of Seba; but what the Dutch Christianity of these Indians +may be, it is not perhaps very easy to guess, for there was not a +church, nor even a priest, in the whole island. + +<p>While we were at this place, we made several enquiries concerning the +neighbouring islands, and the intelligence which we received is to the +following effect:-- + +<p>A small island to the westward of Savu, the name of which we did not +learn, produces nothing of any consequence but areca-nuts, of which the +Dutch receive annually the freight of two sloops, in return for presents +that they make to the islanders. + +<p>Timor is the chief, and the Dutch residents on the other islands go +thither once a-year to pass their accounts. The place was nearly in the +same state as in Dampier's time, the Dutch having there a fort and +storehouses; and by Lange's account we might there have been supplied +with every necessary that we expected to procure at Batavia, salt +provisions and arrack not excepted. But the Portuguese were still in +possession of several towns on the north side of the island, +particularly Laphao and Sesial. + +<p>About two years before our arrival, a French ship was wrecked upon the +east coast of Timor; and after she had lain some days upon the shoal, a +sudden gale broke her up at once, and drowned the captain, with the +greatest part of the crew: Those who got ashore, among whom was one of +the lieutenants, made the best of their way to Concordia; they were four +days upon the road, where they were obliged to leave part of their +company through fatigue, and the rest, to the number of about eighty, +arrived at the town. They were supplied with every necessary, and sent +back to the wreck, with proper assistance, for recovering what could be +fished up: They fortunately got up all their bullion, which was in +chests, and several of their guns, which were very large. They then +returned to the town, but their companions who had been left upon the +road were missing, having, as it was supposed, been kept among the +Indians, either by persuasion or force; for they are very desirous of +having Europeans among them, to instruct them in the art of war. After a +stay of more than two months at Concordia, their number was diminished +nearly one half by sickness, in consequence of the fatigue and hardship +which they had suffered by the shipwreck, and the survivors were sent in +a small vessel to Europe. + +<p>Rotte was in much the same situation as Savu; a Dutch factor resided +upon it to manage the natives, and look after its produce, which +consists, among other articles, of sugar. Formerly it was made only by +bruising the canes, and boiling the juice to a syrup, in the same manner +as toddy; but great improvements have lately been made in preparing this +valuable commodity. The three little islands called the Solars were also +under the influence of the Dutch settlement at Concordia: They are flat +and low, but abound with provisions of every kind, and the middlemost +is said to have a good harbour for shipping. Ende, another little +island to the westward of the Solars, was still in the hands of the +Portuguese, who had a good town and harbour on the north-east corner of +it called Larntuca: They had formerly an harbour on the south side of +it, but that, being much inferior to Larntuca, had for some time been +altogether neglected. + +<p>The inhabitants of each of these little islands speak a language +peculiar to themselves, and it is an object of Dutch policy to prevent, +as much as possible, their learning the language of each other. If they +spoke a common language, they would learn, by a mutual intercourse with +each other, to plant such things as would be of more value to themselves +than their present produce, though of less advantage to the Dutch; but +their languages being different, they can communicate no such knowledge +to each other, and the Dutch secure to themselves the benefit of +supplying their several necessities upon their own terms, which it is +reasonable to suppose are not very moderate. It is probably with a view +to this advantage that the Dutch never teach their own language to the +natives of these islands, and have been at the expence of translating +the Testament and catechisms into the different languages of each; for +in proportion as Dutch had become the language of their religion, it +would have become the common language of them all.[111] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 111: The Dutch in all their transactions abroad seem to have +invariably minded the <i>main chance, the one thing needful</i>; and to this +consideration, as a fundamental principle in their character, they never +scrupled to sacrifice every and any matter of religion, policy or +humanity,--as if the love of money was (to reverse the language of an +apostle) the root of all virtue, and alone worthy of cultivation in the +breasts of mankind. Whether their contempt of other people were greater +than their indifference to the real interests which necessary connexion +with them recommended, it is impossible to ascertain in some cases. It +is on either supposition, to their indelible disgrace, that not the +least pains were almost at any time bestowed by them, to acquire a +knowledge of the languages of the people whom they had subdued. The +Javanese, a language venerable from its antiquity, as certainly +connected with the Sanscrit or sacred dialect of the Hindus, and +important from its own excellence, as well as because spoken by some +millions of people with whom the Dutch had very long intercourse, was so +completely neglected, that till very lately not a single individual +among them could write or converse in it. Of the Malayan tongue, which +is quite distinct, though it has borrowed much from it, in consequence +of certain commercial and even religious intercourse, a little knowledge +had been acquired, and plainly for this reason, that without it no +communication could have been carried on with the people inhabiting the +sea-coasts and islands of the eastern parts of India. But even this +knowledge, it is probable, extended no farther than to the names of +substances imperatively alluring to the cupidity of Dutch merchants. +What, alas! could be expected of intellectual energy or enterprize, from +men who had surrendered their souls to <i>mammon</i>, and whose only +remaining care it was, to guzzle gin and devour enough of victuals?--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>To this account of Savu, I shall only add a small specimen of its +language, by which it will appear to have some affinity with that of the +South-Sea islands, many of the words being exactly the same, and the +numbers manifestly derived from the same source. + +<pre> + <i>A man</i>, Momonne. <i>A sheep</i>, Doomba. + <i>A woman</i>, Mobunne. <i>A goat</i>, Kesavoo. + <i>The head</i>, Catoo. <i>A dog</i>, Guaca. + <i>The hair</i>, Row catoo. <i>A cat</i>, Maio. + <i>The eyes</i>, Matta. <i>A fowl</i>, Mannu. + <i>The eye</i> } Rowna matta. <i>The tail</i>, Carow. + <i>lashes</i>, } <i>The beak</i>, Pangoutoo. + <i>The nose</i>, Swanga. <i>A fish</i>, Ica. + <i>The cheeks</i>, Cavaranga. <i>A turtle</i>, Unjoo. + <i>The ears</i>, Wodeeloo. <i>A cocoa-nut</i>, Nieu. + <i>The tongue</i>, Vaio. <i>Fan-palm</i>, Boaceree. + <i>The neck</i>, Lacoco. <i>Areca</i>, Calella. + <i>The breasts</i>, Soosoo. <i>Betele</i>, Canana. + <i>The nipples</i>, Caboo soosoo. <i>Lime</i>, Aou. + <i>The belly</i>, Dulloo. <i>A fish-hook</i>, Maänadoo. + <i>The navel</i>, Assoo. <i>Tattow, the</i>} Tata. + <i>The thighs</i>, Tooga. <i>marks on</i> } + <i>The knees</i>, Rootoo. <i>the skin</i>, } + <i>The legs</i>, Baibo. <i>The sun</i>, Lodo. + <i>The feet</i>, Dunceala. <i>The moon</i>, Wurroo. + <i>The toes</i>, Kissovei yilla. <i>The sea</i>, Aidassee. + <i>The arms</i>, Camacoo. <i>Water</i>, Ailea. + <i>The hand</i>, Wulaba. <i>Fire</i>, Aee. + <i>A buffalo</i>, Cabaou. <i>To die</i>, Maate. + <i>A horse</i>, Djara. <i>To sleep</i>, Tabudge. + <i>A hog</i>, Vavee. <i>To rise</i>, Tateetoo. + + One, Usse. + Two, Lhua. + Three, Tullu. + Four, Uppah. + Five, Lumme. + Six, Unna. + Seven, Pedu. + Eight, Arru. + Nine, Saou. + Ten, Singooroo. + Eleven Singurung usse. + 20, Lhuangooroo. + 100, Sing assu. + 1000, Setuppah. + 10,000, Selacussa. + 100,000, Serata. + 1,000,000, Sereboo. +</pre> + +<p>In this account of the island of Savu it must be remembered, that, +except the facts in which we were parties, and the account of the +objects which we had an opportunity to examine, the whole is founded +merely upon the report of Mr Lange, upon whose authority alone therefore +it most rest. + +<p>SECTION XXXVII. + +<p><i>The Run from the Island of Savu to Batavia, and an Account of the +Transactions there while the Ship was refitting</i>. + +<p>In the morning of Friday the 21st of September, 1770, we got under sail, +and stood away to the westward, along the north side of the island of +Savu, and of the smaller that lies to the westward of it, which at noon +bore from us S.S.E. distant two leagues. At four o'clock in the +afternoon, we discovered a small low island, bearing S.S.W. distant +three leagues, which has no place in any chart now extant, at least in +none that I have been able to procure: It lies in latitude 10° 47' S., +longitude 238° 28' W. + +<p>At noon on the 22d, we were in latitude 11° 10' S., longitude 240° 38' +W. In the evening of the 23d, we found the variation of the needle to be +2° 44' W.; as soon as we got clear of the islands we had constantly a +swell from the southward, which I imagined was not caused by a wind +blowing from that quarter, but by the sea being so determined by the +position of the coast of New Holland. + +<p>At noon on the 26th, being in latitude 10° 47' S., longitude 249° 52' +W., we found the variation to be 3° 10' W., and our situation to be +twenty-five miles to the northward of the log; for which I know not how +to account. At noon on the 27th, our latitude by observation was 10° 51' +S., which was agreeable to the log; and our longitude was 252° 11' W. We +steered N.W. all day on the 28th, in order to make the land of Java; and +at noon on the 29th, our latitude by observation was 9° 31' S., +longitude 254° 10' W.; and in the morning of the 30th, I took into my +possession the log-book and journals, at least all I could find, of the +officers, petty officers, and seamen, and enjoined them secrecy with +respect to where they had been. + +<p>At seven in the evening, being in the latitude of Java Head, and not +seeing any land, I concluded that we were too far to the westward: I +therefore hauled up E.N.E. having before steered N. by E. In the night, +we had thunder and lightning; and about twelve o'clock, by the light of +the flashes, we saw the land bearing east. I then tacked and stood to +the S.W. till four o'clock in the morning of the 1st of October; and at +six, Java Head, or the west end of Java, bore S.E. by E., distant five +leagues: Soon after we saw Prince's Island, bearing E. 1/2 S.; and at +ten, the island of Cracatoa, bearing N.E. Cracatoa is a remarkably +high-peaked island, and at noon it bore N. 40 E. distant seven leagues. + +<p>I must now observe that, during our run from Savu, I allowed twenty +minutes a-day for the westerly current, which I concluded must run +strong at this time, especially off the coast of Java, and I found that +this allowance was just equivalent to the effect of the current upon the +ship.[112] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 112: This is a single but not an inconsiderable instance of +Cook's skill, in the important art of navigation.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At four o'clock in the morning of the 2d, we fetched close in with the +coast of Java, in fifteen fathom; we then stood along the coast, and +early in the forenoon, I sent the boat ashore to try if she could +procure some fruit for Tupia, who was very ill, and some grass for the +buffaloes that were still alive. In an hour or two she returned with +four cocoa-nuts, and a small bunch of plantains, which had been +purchased for a shilling, and some herbage for the cattle, which the +Indians not only gave us, but assisted our people to cut. The country +looked like one continued wood, and had a very pleasant appearance. + +<p>About eleven o'clock, we saw two Dutch ships lying off Anger Point, and +I sent Mr Hicks on board of one of them to enquire news of our country, +from which we had been absent so long. In the mean time it fell calm, +and about noon I anchored in eighteen fathom with a muddy bottom.[113] +When Mr Hicks returned, he reported that the ships were Dutch East +Indiamen from Batavia, one of which was bound to Ceylon, and the other +to the coast of Malabar; and that there was also a flyboat or packet, +which was said to be stationed here to carry letters from the Dutch +ships that came hither to Batavia, but which I rather think was +appointed to examine all ships that pass the Streight: From these ships +we heard, with great pleasure, that the Swallow had been at Batavia +about two years before.[114] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 113: Mr Barrow advises that vessels should touch at Anger or +Angeire Point, for refreshments. He says it is vastly better than +stopping near North Island, on the Sumatra side, as the stores are much +superior, and the station is very healthy.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 114: This is related in the preceding volume.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At seven o'clock a breeze sprung up at S.S.W., with which having +weighed, we stood to the N.E. between Thwart-the-way-Island and the Cap, +sounding from eighteen to twenty-eight fathom: We had but little wind +all night, and having a strong current against us, we got no further by +eight in the morning than Bantam Point. At this time the wind came to +the N.E., and obliged us to anchor in two-and-twenty fathom, at about +the distance of two miles from the shore; the point bore N.E. by E., +distant one league, and here we found a strong current setting to the +N.W. In the morning we had seen the Dutch packet standing after us, but +when the wind shifted to the N.E. she bore away.[115] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 115: There is considerable difficulty at certain seasons, in +working up this strait. Thus it is not unusual for a vessel going at a +wrong time, to be six weeks in accomplishing a distance, which at +another time may be gone over in twelve hours. This, however, is when +the Great Channel, as it is called, is attempted at a wrong season. The +Secured Passage or Bahonden, viz. betwixt Java and Prince's Island, is +more generally navigated, except by vessels coming from Bengal, Surat, +&c. which cannot reach the windward shore of Java against the south-east +monsoon. Those which take the Secured Passage soon get into anchoring +depth off the Java shore, which is one of its greatest advantages,--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At six o'clock in the evening, the wind having obliged us to continue at +anchor, one of the country boats came along side of us, on board of +which was the master of the packet. He seemed to have two motives for +his visit, one to take an account of the ship, and the other to sell us +refreshments; for in the boat were turtle, fowls, ducks, parrots, +paroquets, rice-birds, monkies, and other articles, which they held at a +very high price, and brought to a bad market, for our Savu stock was not +yet expended: However, I gave a Spanish dollar for a small turtle, which +weighed about six-and-thirty pounds: I gave also a dollar for ten large +fowls, and afterwards bought fifteen more at the same price; for a +dollar we might also have bought two monkies, or a whole cage of +rice-birds. The master of the sloop brought with him two books, in one +of which he desired that any of our officers would write down the name +of the ship and its commander, with that of the place from which she +sailed, and of the port to which she was bound, with such other +particulars relating to themselves, as they might think proper, for the +information of any of our friends that should come after us: And in the +other he entered the names of the ship and the commander himself, in +order to transmit them, to the governor and council of the Indies. We +perceived that in the first book many ships, particularly Portuguese, +had made entries of the same kind with that for which it was presented +to us. Mr Hicks, however, having written the name of the ship, only +added "from Europe." He took notice of this, but said, that he was +satisfied with any thing we thought fit to write, it being intended +merely for the information of those who should enquire after us from +motives of friendship. + +<p>Having made several attempts to sail with a wind that would not stem the +current, and as often come to an anchor, a proa came along-side of us in +the morning of the 5th, in which was a Dutch officer, who sent me down a +printed paper in English, duplicates of which he had in other languages, +particularly in French and Dutch, all regularly signed, in the name of +the governor and council of the Indies, by their secretary: It +contained nine questions, very ill expressed, in the following terms: + +<pre> + "1. To what nation the ship belongs, and its name? + "2. If it comes from Europe, or any other place? + "3. From what place it lastly departed from? + "4. Whereunto designed to go? + "5. What and how many ships of the Dutch Company + by departure from the last shore there layed, and their + names? + "6. If one or more of these ships in company with this, + is departed for this or any other place? + "7. If during the voyage any particularities is happened + or seen? + "8. If not any ships in sea, or the Streights of Sunda, + have seen or hailed in, and which? + "9. If any other news worth of attention, at the place + from whence the ship lastly departed, or during the voyage, + is happened? + + BATAVIA, in the Castle. + "By order of the Governor-General + and the Counsellors of India, + J. BRANDER BUNGL, Sec." +</pre> + +<p>Of these questions I answered only the first and the fourth; which when +the officer saw, he said answers to the rest were of no consequence: Yet +he immediately added, that he must send that very paper away to Batavia, +and that it would be there the next day at noon. I have particularly +related this incident, because I have been credibly informed that it is +but of late years that the Dutch have taken upon them to examine the +ships that pass through this Streight.[116] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 116: The Dutch East-India Company claimed the absolute +sovereignty of the Straits of Sunda, as possessing the kingdom of +Bantam, on the shore of Java, and having conquered the land of Lampon +and other provinces on the opposite side.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>At ten o'clock the same morning, we weighed, with a light breeze at +S.W.; but did little more than stem the current, and about two o'clock +anchored again under Bantam Point, where we lay till nine; a light +breeze then springing up at S.E. we weighed and stood to the eastward +till ten o'clock the next morning, when the current obliged us again to +anchor in twenty-two fathom, Pulababi bearing E. by S. 1/2 S. distant +between three and four miles. Having alternately weighed and anchored +several times, till four in the afternoon of the 7th, we then stood to +the eastward, with a very faint breeze at N.E. and passed Wapen Island, +and the first island to the eastward of it; when the wind dying away, we +were carried by the current between the first and second of the islands +that lie to the eastward of Wapen Island, where we were obliged to +anchor in thirty fathom, being very near a ledge of rocks that run out +from one of the islands. At two the next morning we weighed with the +land-wind at south, and stood out clear of the shoal; but before noon +were obliged to come-to again in twenty-eight fathom, near a small +island among those that are called the Thousand Islands, which we did +not find laid down in any chart. Pulo Pare at this time bore E.N.E. +distance between six and seven miles. + +<p>Mr Banks and Dr Solander went ashore upon the island, which they found +not to be more than five hundred yards long, and one hundred broad; yet +there was a house upon it, and a small plantation, where among other +things was the <i>Palma Christi</i>, from which the caster-oil is made in the +West Indies:[117] they made a small addition to their collection of +plants, and shot a bat, whose wings when extended measured three feet +from point to point: They shot also four plovers, which exactly +resembled the golden plover of England. Soon after they returned, a +small Indian boat came along-side with two Malays on board, who brought +three turtles, some dried fish, and a few pumpkins: We bought the +turtle, which altogether weighed a hundred and forty-six pounds, for a +dollar, and considering that we had lately paid the Dutchman a dollar +for one that weighed only six-and-thirty pounds, we thought we had a +good bargain. The seller appeared equally satisfied, and we then treated +with him for his pumpkins, for which he was very unwilling to take any +money but a dollar; we said that a whole dollar was greatly too much; to +which he readily assented, but desired that we would cut one and give +him a part: At last, however, a fine shining Portuguese petack tempted +him, and for that he sold us his whole stock of pumpkins, being in +number twenty-six. At parting, he made signs that we should not tell at +Batavia that any boat had been aboard us. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 117: The Ricinus Communis: The oil is obtained from the seeds, +either by expression or decoction.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We were not able to weather Polo Pare this day, but getting the +land-wind at south about ten o'clock at night, we weighed and stood to +the E.S.E. all night. At ten in the morning, we anchored again, to wait +for the sea-breeze; and at noon it sprung up at N.N.E. with which we +stood in for Batavia road, where at four o'clock in the afternoon we +came to an anchor. + +<p>We found here the Harcourt Indiaman from England, two English private +traders of that country, thirteen sail of large Dutch ships, and a +considerable number of small vessels. + +<p>A boat came immediately on board from a ship which had a broad pendant +flying, and the officer who commanded having enquired who we were, and +whence we came, immediately returned with such answers as we thought fit +to give him: Both he and his people were pale as spectres a sad presage +of our sufferings in so unhealthy a country; but our people, who, except +Tupia, were all rosy and plump seemed to think themselves so seasoned by +various-climates that nothing could hurt them.[118] In the mean time, I +sent a lieutenant ashore to acquaint the governor of our arrival and to +make an excuse for our not saluting; for as I could salute with only +three guns, except the swivels, which I was of opinion would not be +heard, I thought it was better to let it alone. As soon as the boat was +dispatched, the carpenter delivered me an account of the defects of the +ship, of which the following is a copy: + +<pre> +"The defects of his Majesty's bark Endeavour, +"Lieutenant James Cook Commander. + + + "The ship very leaky, as she makes from twelve to six + inches water an hour, occasioned by her main keel being + wounded in many places, and the scarfs of her stern being + very open: The false keel gone beyond the midships from + forward, and perhaps farther, as I had no opportunity of + seeing for the water; when hauled ashore for repairing: + Wounded on the larboard side under the main channel, + where I imagine the greatest leak is, but could not come at + it for the water: One pump on the larboard side useless; the + others decayed within an inch and a half of the bore. + Otherwise masts, yards, boats, and hull, in pretty good condition." +</pre> + +<p>As it was the universal opinion that the ship could not safely proceed +to Europe without an examination of her bottom, I determined to apply +for leave to heave her down at this place; and as I understood that it +would be necessary to make this application in writing, I drew up a +request, and the next morning, having got it translated into Dutch, we +all went ashore. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 118: It is of some consequence to remember the circumstance of +the crew's good health on arriving at Batavia. So far the precautions +used for their welfare had been found very efficacious.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>We repaired immediately to the house of Mr Leith, the only Englishman of +any credit who was resident at this place; he received us with great +politeness, and engaged us to dinner: To this gentleman we applied for +instructions how to provide ourselves with lodgings and necessaries +while we should stay ashore, and he told us that there was a hotel, or +kind of inn, kept by the order of government, where all merchants and +strangers were obliged to reside, paying half per cent, upon the value +of their goods for warehouse room, which the master of the house was +obliged to provide; but that as we came in a king's ship, we should be +at liberty to live where we pleased, upon asking the governor's +permission, which would be granted of course. He said that it would be +cheaper for us to take a house in the town, and bring our own servants +ashore, if we had any body upon whom we could depend to buy in our +provisions; but as this was not the case, having no person among us who +could speak the Malay language, our gentlemen determined to go to the +hotel. At the hotel, therefore, beds were immediately hired, and word +was sent that we should sleep there at night. + +<p>At five o'clock in the afternoon I was introduced to the +governor-general, who received me very courteously; he told me that I +should have every thing I wanted, and that in the morning my request +should be laid before the council, which I was desired to attend. + +<p>About nine o'clock we had a dreadful storm of thunder, lightning, and +rain, during which the main-mast of one of the Dutch East Indiamen was +split, and carried away by the deck; the main-top-mast and +top-gallant-mast were shivered to pieces; she had an iron spindle at the +main-top-mast-head, which probably directed the stroke. This ship lay +not more than the distance of two cables' length from ours, and in all +probability we should have shared the same fate, but for the electrical +chain which we had but just got up, and which conducted the lightning +over the side of the ship; but though we escaped the lightning, the +explosion shook us like an earthquake, the chain at the same time +appearing like a line of fire: A centinel was in the action of charging +his piece, and the shock forced the musket out of his hand, and broke +the rammer-rod. Upon this occasion I cannot but earnestly recommend +chains of the same kind to every ship, whatever be her destination, and +I hope that the fate of the Dutchman will be a warning to all who shall +read this narrative, against having an iron spindle at the +mast-head.[119] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 119: Thunder storms are particularly frequent in this climate, +especially about the ends of the monsoons, at which times scarcely an +evening passes without one. But in general, it has been remarked, they +are not productive of much mischief; the reason, perhaps, why the +Indiaman was not furnished in the manner recommended. The Dutch are +scarcely to be charged with want of foresight, or with inattention to +their interests. Nevertheless, the advice here given is worthy of +attention, as well to them as to others.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The next morning I attended at the council-chamber, and was told that I +should have every thing I wanted. In the mean time, the gentlemen ashore +agreed with the keeper of the hotel for their lodging and board, at the +rate of two rix-dollars, or nine shillings sterling a-day for each; and +as there were five of them, and they would probably have many visitors +from the ship, he agreed to keep them a separate table, upon condition +that they should pay one rix-dollar for the dinner of every stranger, +and another for his supper and bed, if he should sleep ashore. Under +this stipulation they were to be furnished with tea, coffee, punch, +pipes and tobacco, for themselves and their friends, as much as they +could consume; they were also to pay half a rupee, or one shilling and +three-pence a-day for each of their servants.[120] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 120: Captain Bligh, who got to Batavia in 1739, speaks very +indifferently of the hotel there. "One of the greatest difficulties," +says he, "that strangers have to encounter, is their being obliged to +live at the hotel. This hotel was formerly two houses, which, by doors +of communication, have been made one. It is in the middle of a range of +buildings more calculated for a cold country than for such a climate as +Batavia. There is no free circulation of air, and what is equally bad, +it is always very dirty; and there is great want of attendance. What +they call cleaning the house, is another nuisance; for they never use +any water to cool it or lay the dust, but sweep daily with brooms, in +such a manner, that those in the house are almost suffocated by a cloud +of dust." His officers, he tells us, complained of the tradesmen +imposing on them as to the price of goods, in consequence of which he +spoke to the sabander, who gave redress. He himself was obliged; on +account of his health, to have a house in the country.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>They soon learnt that these rates were more than double the common +charges of board and lodging in the town, and their table, though it had +the appearance of magnificence, was wretchedly served. Their dinner +consisted of one course of fifteen dishes, and their supper of one +course of thirteen, but nine or ten of them consisted of bad poultry, +variously dressed, and often served up the second, third, and even the +fourth time: The same duck having appeared more than once roasted, found +his way again to the table as a fricasee, and a fourth time in the form +of forced meat. It was not long, however, before they learnt that this +treatment was only by way of essay, and that it was the invariable +custom of the house to supply all strangers, at their first coming, with +such fare as could be procured for the least money, and consequently +would produce the most gain: That if either through indolence or good +nature they were content, it was continued for the benefit of the host, +but that if they complained, it was gradually amended till they were +satisfied, which sometimes happened before they had the worth of their +money. After this discovery, they remonstrated, and their fare became +better; however, after a few days, Mr Banks hired a little house, the +next door on the left hand to the hotel, for himself and his party, for +which he paid after the rate of ten rix-dollars, or two pounds five +shillings sterling a-month; but here they were very far from having +either the convenience or the privacy which they expected; no person was +permitted to sleep in this private house occasionally, as a guest to the +person who hired it, under a penalty, but almost every Dutchman that +went by ran in without any ceremony, to ask what they sold, there having +been very seldom any private persons at Batavia who had not something to +sell. Every body here hires a carriage, and Mr Banks hired two. They are +open chaises, made to hold two people, and driven by a man sitting on a +coach-box; for each of these he paid two rix-dollars a-day. + +<p>As soon as he was settled in his new habitation, he sent for Tupia, who, +till now, had continued on board upon account of his illness, which was +of the bilious kind, and for which he had obstinately refused to take +any medicine. He soon came ashore, with his boy Tayeto, and though while +he was on board, and after he came into the boat, he was exceedingly +listless and dejected, he no sooner entered the town than he seemed to +be animated with a new soul. The houses, carriages, streets, people, and +a multiplicity of other objects, all new, which rushed upon him at once, +produced an effect like the sudden and secret power that is imagined of +fascination. Tayeto expressed his wonder and delight with still less +restraint, and danced along the street in a kind of extasy, examining +every object with a restless and eager curiosity, which was every moment +excited and gratified. One of the first things that Tupia remarked, was +the various dresses of the passing multitude, concerning which he made +many enquiries; and when he was told that in this place, where people of +many different nations were assembled, every one wore the habit of his +country, he desired that he might conform to the custom, and appear in +that of Otaheite. South-Sea cloth was therefore sent for from the ship, +and he equipped himself with great expedition and dexterity. The people +who had seen Otouron, the Indian, who had been brought hither by M. +Bougainville, enquired whether Tupia was not the same person: From these +enquiries, we learnt who it was that we had supposed to be Spaniards, +from the accounts that had been given of two ships by the +islanders.[121] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 121: Should our limits allow it, an abstract of Bougainville's +voyage will be given as an appendix, in which mention will be made of +the Indian here alluded to.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the mean time, I procured an order to the superintendant of the +Island of Onrust, where the ship was to be repaired, to receive her +there; and sent by one of the ships that sailed for Holland, an account +of our arrival here, to Mr Stephens, the secretary to the Admiralty. + +<p>The expences that would be incurred by repairing and refitting the ship, +rendered it necessary for me to take up money in this place, which I +imagined might be done without difficulty, but I found myself mistaken; +for after the most diligent enquiry, I could not find any private person +that had ability and inclination to advance the sum that I wanted. In +this difficulty I applied to the governor himself, by a written request, +in consequence of which, the shebander had orders to supply me with what +money I should require, out of the Company's treasury. + +<p>On the 18th, as soon as it was light, having by several accidents and +mistakes suffered a delay of many days, I took up the anchor, and ran +down to Onrust: A few days afterwards we went alongside of the wharf, on +Cooper's Island, which lies close to Onrust, in order to take out our +stores. + +<p>By this time, having been here only three days, we began to feel the +fatal effects of the climate and situation. Tupia, after the flow of +spirits which the novelties of the place produced upon his first +landing, sank on a sadden, and grew every day worse and worse. Tayeto +was seized with an inflammation upon his lungs, Mr Banks's two servants +became very ill, and himself and Dr Solander were attacked by fevers; in +a few days, almost every person both on board and ashore were sick; +affected, no doubt, by the low swampy situation of the place, and the +numberless dirty canals which intersect the town in all directions. On +the 26th, I set up the tent for the reception of the ship's company, of +whom there was but a small number able to do duty. Poor Tupia, of whose +life we now began to despair, and who till this time had continued +ashore with Mr Banks, desired to be removed to the ship, where, he said, +he should breathe a freer air than among the numerous houses which +obstructed it ashore: On board the ship, however, he could not go, for +she was unrigged, and preparing to be laid down at the careening-place; +but on the 28th, Mr Banks went with him to Cooper's Island, or, as it is +called here, Kuypor, where she lay, and as he seemed pleased with the +spot, a tent was there pitched for him: At this place both the +sea-breeze and the land-breeze blew directly over him, and he expressed +great satisfaction in his situation. Mr Banks, whose humanity kept him +two days with this poor Indian, returned to the town on the 30th, and +the fits of his intermittent, which was now become a regular tertian, +were so violent as to deprive him of his senses while they lasted, and +leave him so weak that he was scarcely able to crawl down stairs: At +this time, Dr Solander's disorder also increased, and Mr Monkhouse, the +surgeon, was confined to his bed. + +<p>On the 5th of November, after many delays in consequence of the Dutch +ships coming alongside the wharfs to load pepper, the ship was laid +down, and the same day, Mr Monkhouse, our surgeon, a sensible skilful +man, fell the first sacrifice to this fatal country, a loss which was +greatly aggravated by our situation. Dr Solander was just able to attend +his funeral, but Mr Banks was confined to his bed. Our distress was now +very great, and the prospect before us discouraging in the highest +degree: Our danger was not such as we could surmount by any efforts of +our own; courage, skill, and diligence were all equally ineffectual, and +death was every day making advances upon us, where we could neither +resist nor fly. Malay servants were hired to attend the sick, but they +had so little sense either of duty or humanity, that they could not be +kept within call, and the patient was frequently obliged to get out of +bed to seek them.[122] On the 9th, we lost our poor Indian boy, Tayeto, +and Tupia was so much affected, that it was doubted whether he would +survive till the next day. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 122: The Malays are not indebted to the representations of any +author who has ever been at the pains to paint their character. What +every body says, is at least likely to be true; and if so, they are a +compound of every thing that is terrific in the rudest of the species, +and of every thing that is odious in human nature, when corrupted to the +extreme. Desperadoes in courage, and gluttons in revenge, they have also +the low cunning and the treacherous plausibility with all the licentious +propensities of the most designing and profligate of mankind. Their +advancement in the arts which render life comfortable, and sometimes, +too, embellish even vice, cannot in any measure redeem them into +favourable estimation. They are in most points inferior (perhaps in +every respect, save navigation,) to all the nations that inhabit the +vast peninsula of Eastern India.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the mean time, the bottom of the ship being examined, was found to be +in a worse condition than we apprehended: The false keel was all gone to +within twenty feet of the stern-post; the main keel was considerably +injured in many places; and a great quantity of the sheathing was torn +off, and several planks were much damaged; two of them, and the half of +a third, under the main channel near the keel, were, for the length of +six feet, so worn, that they were not above an eighth part of an inch +thick, and here the worms had made their way quite into the timbers; yet +in this condition she had sailed many hundred leagues, where navigation +is as dangerous as in any part of the world: How much misery did we +escape by being ignorant that so considerable a part of the bottom of +the vessel was thinner than the sole of a shoe, and that every life on +board depended upon so slight and fragile a barrier between us and the +unfathomable ocean! It seemed, however, that we had been preserved only +to perish here; Mr Banks and Dr Solander were so bad that the physician +declared they had no chance for recovery but by removing into the +country; a house was therefore hired for them at the distance of about +two miles from the town, which belonged to the master of the hotel, who +engaged to furnish them with provisions, and the use of slaves. As they +had already experienced their want of influence over slaves that had +other masters, and the unfeeling inattention of these fellows to the +sick, they bought each of them a Malay woman, which removed both the +causes of their being so ill served; the women were their own property, +and the tenderness of the sex, even here, made them good nurses.[123] +While these preparations were making, they received an account of the +death of Tupia, who sunk at once after the loss of the boy, whom he +loved with the tenderness of a parent.[124] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 123: Dr Hawkesworth seems to have forgotten here the +superiority of a simple diet over the tribe of nurses; it would seem, +too, as if nature did not possess in this climate any considerable +skill in surgery or medicine.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 124: Tupia merited some eulogium; and it is singular that Dr +Hawkesworth did not bestow it. This, however, has been done by Mr +Forster, in his account of Cook's second voyage.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>By the 14th, the bottom of the ship was thoroughly repaired, and very +much to my satisfaction: It would, indeed, be injustice to the officers +and workmen of this yard, not to declare, that, in my opinion, there is +not a marine yard in the world where a ship can be laid down with more +convenience, safety, and dispatch, nor repaired with more diligence and +skill. At this place they heave down by two masts, a method which we do +not now practise; it is, however, unquestionably more safe and +expeditious to heave down with two masts than one, and he must have a +good share of bigotry to old customs, and an equal want of common sense, +who will not allow this, after seeing with what facility the Dutch heave +down their largest ships at this place. + +<p>Mr Banks and Dr Solander recovered slowly at their country-house, which +was not only open to the sea breeze, but situated upon a running stream, +which greatly contributed to the circulation of the air: But I was now +taken ill myself; Mr Sporing, and a seaman who had attended Mr Banks, +were also seized with intermittents; and, indeed, there were not more +than ten of the whole ship's company that were able to do duty. + +<p>We proceeded however in rigging the ship, and getting water and stores +aboard: The water we were obliged to procure from Batavia, at the rate +of six shillings and eight-pence a leager, or one hundred and fifty +gallons. + +<p>About the 26th, the westerly monsoon set in, which generally blows here +in the night from the S.W., and in the day from the N.W. or N. For some +nights before this, we had very heavy rain, with much thunder; and in +the night between the 25th and 26th, such rain as we had seldom seen, +for near four hours without intermission. Mr Banks's house admitted the +water in every part like a sieve, and it ran through the lower rooms in +a stream that would have turned a mill: He was by this time sufficiently +recovered to go out, and upon his entering Batavia the next morning, he +was much surprised to see the bedding every where hung out to dry. + +<p>The wet season was now set in, though we had some intervals of fair +weather.[125] The frogs in the ditches, which croak ten times loader +than any frogs in Europe, gave notice of rain by an incessant noise +that was almost intolerable, and the gnats and musquitos, which had been +very troublesome even during the dry weather, were now become +innumerable, swarming from every plash of water like bees from a hive; +they did not, however, much incommode us in the day, and the stings, +however troublesome at first, never continued to itch above half an +hour, so that none of us felt in the day the effects of the wounds they +had received in the night. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 125: They reckon two seasons or monsoons in this climate. The +east, or good one, begins about the end of April, and continues till +about the beginning of October. During this, the trade-winds usually +blow from the south-east and east-south-east, and there is fine weather, +with a clear sky. The west, or bad monsoon, begins about the end of +November, or commencement of December, and continues till towards the +end of February, during which the winds are mostly from the west. This +is the most unhealthy season. It has been remarked, but not explained, +that the periods of the monsoons are not so regular as they once were, +so that neither their beginning nor end can be so confidently depended +on. The months not included in either of the monsoons are called +shifting-months.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the 8th of December, the ship being perfectly refitted, and having +taken in most of her water and stores, and received the sick on board, +we ran up to Batavia Road, and anchored in four fathom and a half of +water.[126] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 126: Batavia Road is reckoned one of the best in the world for +size, safety, and goodness of anchorage. It is open indeed from the +north-west to east north-east and east; nevertheless, ships lie quite +secure in it, as there are several islands on that side which break the +force of the waves. There is no occasion for mooring stern and stern in +it.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>From this time, to the 24th, we were employed in getting on board the +remainder of our water and provisions, with some new pumps, and in +several other operations that were necessary to fit the ship for the +sea, all which would have been effected much sooner, if sickness and +death had not disabled or carried off a great number of our men. + +<p>While we lay here, the Earl of Elgin, Captain Cook, a ship belonging to +the English East India Company, came to anchor in the road. She was +bound from Madras to China, but having lost her passage, put in here to +wait for the next season. The Phoenix, Captain Black, an English country +ship, from Bencoolen, also came to an anchor at this place. + +<p>In the afternoon of Christmas-eve, the 24th, I took leave of the +governor, and several of the principal gentlemen of the place, with whom +I had formed connexions, and from whom I received every possible +civility and assistance; but in the mean time an accident happened which +might have produced disagreeable consequences. A seaman had run away +from one of the Dutch ships in the road, and entered on board of mine: +The captain had applied to the governor to reclaim him as a subject of +Holland, and an order for that purpose was procured: This order was +brought to me soon after I returned from my last visit, and I said, that +if the man appeared to be a Dutchman, he should certainly be delivered +up. Mr Hicks commanded on board, and I gave the Dutch officer an order +to him to deliver the man up under that condition. I slept myself this +night on shore, and in the morning the captain of the Dutch commodore +came and told me that he had carried my order on board, but that the +officer had refused to deliver up the man, alleging not only that he was +not a Dutchman, but that he was a subject of Great Britain, born in +Ireland; I replied, that the officer had perfectly executed my orders, +and that if the man was an English subject, it could not be expected +that I should deliver him up. The captain then said, that he was just +come from the governor to demand the man of me in his name, as a subject +of Denmark, alleging that he stood in the ship's books as born at +Elsineur. The claim of this man as a subject of Holland being now given +up, I observed to the captain that there appeared to be some mistake in +the general's message, for that he would certainly never demand a Danish +seaman from me who had committed no other crime than preferring the +service of the English to that of the Dutch. I added, however, to +convince him of my sincere desire to avoid disputes, that if the man was +a Dane, he should be delivered up as a courtesy, though he could not be +demanded as a right; but that if I found he was an English subject, I +would keep him at all events. Upon these terms we parted, and soon after +I received a letter from Mr Hicks, containing indubitable proof that the +seaman in question was a subject of his Britannic majesty. This letter I +immediately carried to the shebander, with a request that it might be +shewn to the governor, and that his excellency might at the same time be +told I would not upon any terms part with the man. This had the desired +effect, and I heard no more of the affair.[127] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 127: Whatever may be thought of the advantage of such policy, +it is certain that Cook acted here in the full spirit of a British +officer and <i>minister</i>. Every reader must be aware how materially the +same determination on the part of our government has tended to embroil +us with the Americans, betwixt whom and us, the question of fact, as to +country, is often much more difficult of solution than it can well be +where any other people oppose our claims.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the evening I went on board, accompanied by Mr Banks, and the rest of +the gentlemen who had constantly resided on shore, and who, though +better, were not yet perfectly recovered. + +<p>At six in the morning of the 26th, we weighed and set sail, with a light +breeze at S.W. The Elgin Indiaman saluted us with three cheers and +thirteen guns, and the garrison with fourteen; both which, with the help +of our swivels, we returned, and soon after the sea-breeze set in at N. +by W. which obliged us to anchor just without the ships in the road. + +<p>At this time the number of sick on board amounted to forty, and the rest +of the ship's company were in a very feeble condition. Every individual +had been sick except the sail-maker, an old man between seventy and +eighty years of age; and it is very remarkable, that this old man, +during our stay at this place, was constantly drunk every day:[128] We +had buried seven, the surgeon, three seamen, Mr Green's servant, Tupia, +and Tayeto, his boy. All but Tupia fell a sacrifice to the unwholesome, +stagnant, putrid air of the country, and he who, from his birth, had +been used to subsist chiefly upon vegetable food, particularly ripe +fruit, soon contracted all the disorders that are incident to a sea +life, and would probably have sunk under them before we could have +completed our voyage, if we had not been obliged to go to Batavia to +refit. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 128: Cases similar to this are of constant occurrence, and are +familiarly known to medical men who have a principle to account for it. +The <i>continual</i> operation of exciting causes so as to produce a certain +degree of action of the system, will prevent, as well as remedy, +diseases of debility. The plague has been kept off by a like treatment +on the same principle, and so has the ague, an intermitting fever so +formidable in some countries. Giving over or abating of this stimulating +treatment, however, if other circumstances remain the same, will, of +course, render the person as obnoxious as ever to attack, or rather more +so. It is evident that at times this cure is as bad as the disease; for +scarcely any state of health is more deplorably fatal than constant +drunkenness.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION XXXVIII. + +<p><i>Some Account of Batavia, and the adjacent Country; with their Fruits, +Flowers, and other Productions</i>. + +<p>Batavia, the capital of the Dutch dominions in India, and generally +supposed to have no equal among all the possessions of the Europeans in +Asia, is situated on the north side of the island of Java, in a low +fenny plain, where several small rivers, which take their rise in the +mountains called Blaeuwen Berg, about forty miles up the country, empty +themselves into the sea, and where the coast forms a large bay, called +the Bay of Batavia, at the distance of about eight leagues from the +streight of Sunda. It lies in latitude 6° 10' S., and longitude 106° 50' +E. from the meridian of Greenwich, as appears from astronomical +observations made upon the spot, by the Rev. Mr Mohr, who has built an +elegant observatory, which is as well furnished with instruments as most +in Europe.[129] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 129: Batavia, called by some writers, the Queen of the East, +on account of its wealth and the beauty of its buildings, is situate +very near the sea, in a fertile plain, watered by the river Jaccatra, +which divides the town. The sea-shore is on the north of the city; and +on the south the land rises with a very gentle slope to the mountains, +which are about fifteen leagues inland. One of these is of great height, +and is called the Blue Mountain. The early history of this city is given +in the tenth volume of the Modern Universal History, to which the reader +is referred for information which it would perhaps be tedious to detail +in this place. Batavia, the reader will easily imagine, has been much +impaired by the calamities of her European parent; but, indeed, for some +considerable time before they commenced, she had very materially +declined in consequence and power.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The Dutch seem to have pitched upon this spot for the convenience of +water-carriage, and in that it is indeed a second Holland, and superior +to every other place in the world. There are very few streets that have +not a canal of considerable breadth running through them, or rather +stagnating in them, and continued for several miles in almost every +direction beyond the town, which is also intersected by five or six +rivers, some of which are navigable thirty or forty miles up the +country.[130] As the houses are large, and the streets wide, it takes up +a much greater extent, in proportion to the number of houses it +contains, than any city in Europe. Valentyn, who wrote an account of it +about the year 1726, says, that in his time there were, within the +walls, 1242 Dutch houses, and 1200 Chinese; and without the walls, 1066 +Dutch, and 1240 Chinese, besides 12 arrack houses, making in all 4760: +But this account appeared to us to be greatly exaggerated, especially +with respect to the number of houses within the walls. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 130: The river Jaccatra, as has been mentioned, runs through +the city, viz. from south to north, and having three bridges, one near +the castle, at the lower end, another at the upper end, and the third +about the centre of the town. It is from 160 to 180 feet broad, within +the city, and is fortified, though indifferently, at its mouth, which, +however, is of less importance, as a continually increasing bar renders +access to the city by it impracticable for large vessels.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The streets are spacious and handsome, and the banks of the canals are +planted with rows of trees, that make a very pleasing appearance; but +the trees concur with the canals to make the situation unwholesome.[131] +The stagnant canals in the dry season exhale an intolerable stench, and +the trees impede the course of the air, by which, in some degree, the +putrid effluvia would be dissipated. In the wet season the inconvenience +is equal, for then these reservoirs of corrupted water overflow their +banks in the lower part of the town, especially in the neighbourhood of +the hotel, and fill the lower stories of the houses, where they leave +behind them an inconceivable quantity of slime and filth: Yet these +canals are sometimes cleaned; but the cleaning them is so managed as to +become as great a nuisance as the foulness of the water; for the black +mud that is taken from the bottom is suffered to lie upon the banks, +that is, in the middle of the street, till it has acquired a sufficient +degree of hardness to be made the lading of a boat, and carried away. As +this mud consists chiefly of human ordure, which is regularly thrown +into the canals every morning, there not being a necessary-house in the +whole town, it poisons the air while it is drying, to a considerable +extent. Even the running streams become nuisances in their turn, by the +nastiness or negligence of the people; for every now and then a dead +hog, or a dead horse, is stranded upon the shallow parts, and it being +the business of no particular person to remove the nuisance, it is +negligently left to time and accident. While we were here, a dead +buffalo lay upon the shoal of a river that ran through one of the +principal streets, above a week, and at last was carried away by a +flood.[132] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 131: Some of the streets are paved, but they consist of a hard +clay which allows of being made plain and smooth; and within the city +there are stone foot paths along their sides.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 132: Five roads lead from the city into the country, all of +which are finely planted with trees, and have very agreeable gardens on +both sides. These roads run along the course of the rivulets or canals +which form so remarkable a feature in the history and appearance of this +city. The environs of Batavia have always been highly commended for +their beauty and the fertility of the soil; the consequence, no doubt, +of the extraordinary care taken to have them well watered--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The houses are in general well adapted to the climate; they consist of +one very large room, or hall, on the ground floor, with a door at each +end, both which generally stand open: At one end a room is taken off by +a partition, where the master of the house transacts his business; and +in the middle, between each end, there is a court, which gives light to +the hall, and at the same time increases the draught of air. From one +corner of the hall the stairs go up to the floor above, where also the +rooms are spacious and airy. In the alcove, which is formed by the +court, the family dine; and at other times it is occupied by the female +slaves, who are not allowed to sit down any where else.[133] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 133: The houses are mostly built of brick, stuccoed without, +and with sash-windows, so as to have a light agreeable appearance. The +plan of their internal construction is much the same in the whole. On +one side of a narrow passage into which you enter from the street, you +have a parlour, and a little farther on, a large long room, lighted from +an inner court, as is mentioned in the text. The rooms in general are +badly furnished, and are floored with dark-red stones. The upper rooms +are laid out like the under ones; Few of the private houses have +gardens.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The public buildings are most of them old, heavy, and ungraceful; but +the new church is not inelegant; it is built with a dome, that is seen +from a great distance at sea, and though the outside has rather a heavy +appearance, the inside forms a very fine room: It is furnished with an +organ of a proper size, being very large, and is most magnificently +illuminated by chandeliers.[134] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 134: There are several churches for the reformed religion, and +service is performed in the Dutch, Portuguese, and Malay languages. The +description in the text is believed to apply to the Lutheran church, +erected during the government of Baron Van Imhof.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The town is enclosed by a stone wall of a moderate height; but the whole +of it is old, and many parts are much out of repair. This wall itself is +surrounded by a river, which in some places is fifty, and in some a +hundred yards wide: The stream is rapid, but the water is shallow. The +wall is also lined within by a canal, which in different parts is of +different breadths; so that, in passing either out or in through the +gates, it is necessary to cross two draw-bridges; and there is no +access for idle people or strangers to walk upon the ramparts, which +seem to be but ill provided with guns.[135] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 135: The wall is built of coral rock, and part of it, +according to Sir Geo. Staunton's account, of lava of a dark-blue colour, +and firm hard texture. It has twenty two bastions mounted with +artillery, and is surrounded by a broad moat, generally well filled with +water. There are five gates to the city; two on the south, the New Gate, +and the Diast Gate; one on the north, the Square Gate; Rotterdam Gate on +the east; and the Utrecht Gate on the west--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In the north-east corner of the town stands the castle or citadel, the +walls of which are both higher and thicker than those of the town, +especially near the landing-place, where there is depth of water only +for boats, which it completely commands, with several large guns, that +make a very good appearance. + +<p>Within this castle are apartments for the governor-general, and all the +council of India, to which they are enjoined to repair in case of a +siege. Here are also large storehouses where great quantities of the +Company's goods are kept, especially those that are brought from Europe, +and where almost all their writers transact their business. In this +place also are laid up a great number of cannon, whether to mount upon +the walls or furnish shipping, we could not learn; and the Company is +said to be well supplied with powder, which is dispersed in various +magazines, that if some should be destroyed by lightning, which in this +place is very frequent, the rest may escape.[136] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 136: The castle is a square fortress, having four bastions +connected by curtains, surrounded by a ditch. The walls are about +twenty-four feet high, and built also of coral rock. Besides the houses, +&c. mentioned in the text and near to what is called the Iron Magazine, +is the grass plot where criminals are executed: It is a square space, +artificially elevated, and furnished with gallows, &c. Close adjoining, +and fronting it, is a small building where the magistrates, according to +the Dutch custom, attend during the execution.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Besides the fortifications of the town, numerous forts are dispersed +about the country to the distance of twenty or thirty miles; these seem +to have been intended merely to keep the natives in awe, and indeed +they are fit for nothing else. For the same purpose a kind of houses, +each of which mounts about eight guns, are placed in such situations as +command the navigation of three or four canals, and consequently the +roads upon their banks: Some of these are in the town itself, and it was +from one of these that all the best houses belonging to the Chinese were +levelled with the ground in the Chinese rebellion of 1740.[137] These +defences are scattered over all parts of Java, and the other islands of +which the Dutch have got possession in these seas. Of one of these +singular forts, or fortified houses, we should have procured a drawing, +if our gentlemen had not been confined by sickness almost all the time +they were upon the island. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 137: One of the most shocking transactions ever recorded, is +here alluded to. It has been often described, for it horrified all +Europe, and excited most general disgust at the very name of Dutchmen. +They, however, endeavoured to make the affair look as decent as +possible, and when forced to abandon every other claim to favourable +interpretation, used at last the tyrant's plea, necessity. Rebellion +must be punished, it is admitted; a thousand reasons are in readiness to +justify the punishment of it. But, alas! in this case many hundreds were +punished who had never been in rebellion, never thought of it, never +knew it, were incapable of it. The vengeful spirit of their "High +Mightinesses" in Batavia, was glutted to the throat. Butchery could not +do her work more thoroughly. Not a drop of blood was left in Chinese +veins to circulate disaffection, or boil in the agony of despairing +hate. Extermination smiled in the gloom of Death,--merciful in this at +least, that she suffered not a heart to remain to curse her triumph. See +Modern Universal History, vol. xiv. ch. 7. Our limits will not permit +the dreadful recital.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>If the Dutch fortifications here are not formidable in themselves, they +become so by their situation; for they are among morasses where the +roads, which are nothing more than a bank thrown up between a canal and +a ditch, may easily be destroyed, and consequently the approach of heavy +artillery either totally prevented or greatly retarded: For it would be +exceedingly difficult, if not impossible, to transport them in boats, as +they all muster every night under the guns of the castle, a situation +from which it would be impossible for an enemy to take them. Besides, in +this country, delay is death; so that whatever retards an enemy, will +destroy him. In less than a week we were sensible of the unhealthiness +of the climate; and in less than a month half the ship's company were +unable to do their duty. We were told, that of a hundred soldiers who +arrive here from Europe, it was a rare thing for fifty to survive the +first year; that of those fifty, half would then be in the hospital, and +not ten of the rest in perfect health: Possibly this account may be +exaggerated; but the pale and feeble wretches whom we saw crawling about +with a musket, which they were scarcely able to carry, inclined us to +believe that it was true.[138] Every white inhabitant of the town indeed +is a soldier; the younger are constantly mustered, and those who have +served five years are liable to be called out when their assistance is +thought to be necessary; but as neither of them are ever exercised, or +do any kind of duty, much cannot be expected from them. The Portuguese, +indeed, are in general good marksmen, because they employ themselves +much in shooting wild-hogs and deer: Neither the Mardykers nor the +Chinese know the use of fire-arms; but as they are said to be brave, +they might do much execution with their own weapons, swords, lances, and +daggers. The Mardykers are Indians of all nations, who are descended +from free ancestors, or have themselves been made free. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 138: Mr Barrow does not give a more favourable report. +According to him, no less than three out of five of the new settlers at +this place die in the first year of their residence; and he learned from +the registers of the military hospital, that though the establishment of +troops never exceeded 1500 men, and sometimes was not half this number, +yet during sixty-two years the annual deaths amounted to 1258! Of those +Europeans who have in some degree got accustomed to the place, he says +that rather more than ten in a hundred die yearly; and that scarcely any +live beyond the middle stage of life. The natives, as might be expected, +suffer less, but even they are exposed to frequent visits of the old +enemy. In Mr B.'s opinion, the climate is not so injurious as the +circumstances of the situation, and the pernicious, though convenient, +prevalency of canals, aided, he admits, by the bad habits of the +people.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>But if it is difficult to attack Batavia by land, it is utterly +impossible to attack it by sea: For the water is so shallow, that it +will scarcely admit a long-boat to come within cannon-shot of the walls, +except in a narrow channel, called the river, that is walled on both +sides by strong piers, and runs about half a mile into the harbour. At +the other end, it terminates under the fire of the strongest part of the +castle; and here its communication with the canals that intersect the +town is cut off by a large wooden boom, which is shut every night at six +o'clock, and upon no pretence opened till the next morning.[139] The +harbour of Batavia is accounted the finest in India, and, to all +appearance, with good reason; it is large enough to contain any number +of ships, and the ground is so good that one anchor will hold till the +cable decays: It never admits any sea that is troublesome, and its only +inconvenience is the shoal water between the road and the river. When +the sea-breeze blows fresh, it makes a cockling sea that is dangerous to +boats: Our long-boat once struck two or three times as she was +attempting to come out, and regained the river's mouth with some +difficulty. A Dutch boat, laden with sails and rigging for one of the +Indiamen, was entirely lost. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 139: The reader need not be reminded of the facility with +which Batavia was lately taken by our gallant countrymen. The accounts +of that successful expedition may be advantageously compared with what +is here given. This, however, they must do who are interested in the +subject. The introduction of it here would be very irrelevant--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Round the harbour, on the outside, lie many islands, which the Dutch +have taken possession of, and apply to different uses.[140] To one of +them, called Edam, they transport all Europeans who have been guilty of +crimes that are not worthy of death: Some are sentenced to remain there +ninety-nine years, some forty, some twenty, some less, down to five, in +proportion to their offence; and during their banishment, they are +employed as slaves in making ropes, and other drudgery.[141] In another +island, called Purmerent, they have an hospital, where people are said +to recover much faster than at Batavia.[142] In a third, called Kuyper, +they have warehouses belonging to the Company, chiefly for rice, and +other merchandise of small value; and here the foreign ships, that are +to be laid down at Onrnst, another of these islands, which with Kuyper +has been mentioned before, discharge their cargoes at wharfs which are +very convenient for the purpose.[143] Here the guns, sails, and other +stores of the Falmouth, a man-of-war which was condemned at this place +when she was returning from Manilla, were deposited, and the ship +herself remained in the harbour, with only the warrant officers on +board, for many years. Remittances were regularly made them from home; +but no notice was ever taken of the many memorials they sent, desiring +to be recalled. Happily for them, the Dutch thought fit, about six +months before our arrival, to sell the vessel and all her stores, by +public auction, and send the officers home in their own ships. At +Onrust, they repair all their own shipping, and keep a large quantity of +naval stores. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 140: There are fifteen islands in all, but only four of them +are used by the Company; and of these, Onrust is the chief. This is +about three leagues north-west from the city, and is fortified, as +commanding the channel. It is very small, but there are several +warehouses and other buildings on it.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 141: Edam is three leagues north-north-east from the city. It +abounds in wood, and is remarkable for a large tree of the fig kind, +which is an object of high veneration among the superstitious +Javanese.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 142: Purmerent is to the eastward of Onrust, and is half as +large again as that island. It is planted with trees. The hospital on it +is maintained by the voluntary alms of both the natives and +Europeans.--E.]</blockquote> + +<blockquote>[Footnote 143: Kuyper, or Cooper's Isle, is considerably less than +Onrust, and lies very near it. Several large tamarind trees yield it an +agreeable shade. It has two pier-heads at its south side, where ships +take in and discharge their freight.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The country round Batavia is for some miles a continued range of country +houses and gardens. Many of the gardens are very large, and by some +strange fatality, all are planted with trees almost as thick as they can +stand; so that the country derives no advantage from its being cleared +of the wood that originally covered it, except the fruit of that which +has been planted in its room. These impenetrable forests stand in a dead +flat, which extends some miles beyond them, and is intersected in many +directions by rivers, and more still by canals, which are navigable for +small vessels. Nor is this the worst, for the fence of every field and +garden is a ditch; and interspersed among the cultivated ground there +are many filthy fens, bogs, and morasses, as well fresh as salt. + +<p>It is not strange that the inhabitants of such a country should be +familiar with disease and death: Preventative medicines are taken almost +as regularly as food; and every body expects the returns of sickness, as +we do the seasons of the year. We did not see a single face in Batavia +that indicated perfect health, for there is not the least tint of colour +in the cheeks either of man or woman: The women indeed are toast +delicately fair; but with the appearance of disease there never can be +perfect beauty. People talk of death with as much indifference as they +do in a camp; and when an acquaintance is said to be dead, the common +reply is, "Well, he owed me nothing;" or, "I must get my money of his +executors."[144] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 144: Those parts of the city are said to be most healthy which +are farthest off from the sea; and the reason given for the difference +is, that a great deal of mud, filth, blubber, &c. is thrown up by the +tide close to the other parts, and soon putrifying from the extreme +beat, adds materially to the influence of the generally operating +nuisances. But it seems pretty plain that the difference can be but +small, as the contaminated air must rapidly defuse itself throughout the +neighbourhood. Admitting it, however, to be appreciable, the inference +is very obvious as to what ought to be done for the bettering of +Batavia, considered as a receptacle of human beings, and not as a putrid +ditch from which gold is to be raked at the certain expense of +life.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>To this description of the environs of Batavia there are but two +exceptions. The governor's country house is situated upon a rising +ground; but its ascent is so inconsiderable, that it is known to be +above the common level only by the canals being left behind, and the +appearance of a few bad hedges: His excellency, however, who is a native +of this place, has, with some trouble and expence, contrived to inclose +his own garden with a ditch; such is the influence of habit both upon +the taste and the understanding. A famous market also, called Passar +Tanabank, is held upon an eminency that rises perpendicularly about +thirty feet above the plain; and except these situations, the ground, +for an extent of between thirty and forty miles round Batavia, is +exactly parallel to the horizon. At the distance of about forty miles +inland, there are hills of a considerable height, where, as we were +informed, the air is healthy, and comparatively cool. Here the +vegetables of Europe flourish in great perfection, particularly +strawberries, which, can but ill bear heat, and the inhabitants are +vigorous and ruddy. Upon these hills some of the principal people have +country houses, which they visit once a-year; and one was begun for the +governor, upon the plan of Blenheim, the famous seat of the Duke of +Marlborough in Oxfordshire, but it has never been finished. To these +hills also people are sent by the physicians for the recovery of their +health, and the effects of the air are said to be almost miraculous: The +patient grows well in a short time, but constantly relapses soon after +his return to Batavia.[145] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 145: On approaching the mountains towards the southern parts +of the island, the heat of the air gradually diminishes, till at last, +especially in the morning and evening, it is absolutely cold, and cannot +be endured without the aid of such clothing as is used in winter in +other countries. How materially the proper use of such a change of +climate may operate to the restoration of health, can be easily imagined +by any one who has felt the different effects of deleterious heat and +invigorating cold. The island of Jamaica presents something very similar +to what is now related of the different climates in the vicinity of +Batavia.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>But the same situation and circumstances which render Batavia and the +country round it unwholesome, render it the best gardener's ground in +the world. The soil is fruitful beyond imagination, and the conveniences +and luxuries of life that it produces are almost without number. + +<p>Rice, which is well known to be the corn of these countries, and to +serve the inhabitants instead of bread, grows in great plenty; and I +must here observe, that in the hilly parts of Java, and in many of the +eastern islands, a species of this grain is planted, which in the +western parts of India is entirely unknown. It is called by the natives +<i>Paddy Gunung</i>, or Mountain Rice: This, contrary to the other sort, +which must be under water three parts in four of the time of its +growth, is planted upon the sides of hills where no water but rain can +come: It is however planted at the beginning of the rainy season, and +reaped in the beginning of the dry. How far this kind of rice might be +useful in our West-Indian islands, where no bread corn is grown, it may +perhaps be worth while to enquire.[146] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 146: The island of Java produces rice, which is the principal +food of millions, in such quantities, as to have obtained the title of +the granary of the East. Nearly three thousand cwt., it is said, were +furnished by it in the year 1767, for the use of Batavia, Ceylon, and +Banda. It is sown in low ground generally, and after it has got a little +above the ground, is transplanted in small bundles, in rows, each bundle +having about six plants. The waters of the rivulets, &c. are then +allowed to flow on it till the stalk has attained due strength, when the +land is drained. When ripe, the fields of rice have an appearance like +wheat and barley. It is cut down by a small knife, about a foot under +the ear. In place of being threshed, the seed is separated from the husk +by stamping with wooden blocks.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Indian corn, or maize, is also produced here, which the inhabitants +gather when young, and toast in the ear. Here is also a great variety of +kidney-beans, and lentiles which they call <i>Cadjang</i>, and which make a +considerable part of the food of the common people; besides millet, yams +both wet and dry, sweet potatoes, and European potatoes, which are very +good, but not cultivated in great plenty. In the gardens, there are +cabbages, lettuces, cucumbers, radishes, the white radishes of China, +which boil almost as well as a turnip; carrots, parsley, celery, pigeon +peas, the egg plant, which, broiled and eaten with pepper and salt, is +very delicious; a kind of greens resembling spinnage; onions, very +small, but excellent; and asparagus: Besides some European plants of a +strong smell, particularly sage, hysop, and rue. Sugar is also produced +here in immense quantities; very great crops of the finest and largest +canes that can be imagined are produced with very little care, and yield +a much larger proportion of sugar than the canes in the West Indies. +White sugar is sold here at two-pence half-penny a pound; and the +molasses makes the arrack, of which, as of rum, it is the chief +ingredient; a small quantity of rice, and some cocoa-nut wine, being +added, chiefly, I suppose, to give it flavour. A small quantity of +indigo is also produced here, not as an article of trade, but merely for +home consumption.[147] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 147: Pepper, sugar, and coffee, are produced in very +considerable quantities, especially the first, which has been reckoned +one of the chief commodities of the place. As to sugar, one may have +some notion of the quantity yielded, by a circumstance noticed by +Stavorinus in his account. He says that thirteen millions of pounds were +manufactured, in 1765, in the province of Jaccatra alone. Much of it +used to be sent to the west of India, and a considerable part found its +way to Europe before the derangement, or rather annihilation of the +Dutch trade, by the effects of the revolutionary wars.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>But the most abundant article of vegetable luxury here, is the fruit; of +which there is no less than six-and-thirty different kinds, and I shall +give a very brief account of each. + +<p>1. The pine-apple; <i>Bromelia Ananas</i>. This fruit, which is here called +<i>Nanas</i>, grows very large, and in such plenty that they may sometimes be +bought at the first hand for a farthing a-piece; and at the common +fruit-shops we got three of them for two-pence half-penny. They are very +juicy and well flavoured; but we all agreed that we had eaten as good +from a hot-house in England: They are however so luxuriant in their +growth that most of them have two or three crowns, and a great number of +suckers from the bottom of the fruit; of these Mr Banks once counted +nine, and they are so forward that very often while they still adhered +to the parent plant they shot out their fruit, which, by the time the +large one became ripe, were of no inconsiderable size. We several times +saw three upon one apple, and were told that a plant once produced a +cluster of nine, besides the principal: This indeed was considered as so +great a curiosity, that it was preserved in sugar, and sent to the +Prince of Orange. + +<p>2. Sweet oranges. These are very good, but while we were here, sold for +six-pence a piece. + +<p>3. Pumplemoeses, which in the West Indies are called Shaddocks. These +were well flavoured, but not juicy; their want of juice, however, was an +accidental effect of the season. + +<p>4. Lemons. These were very scarce; but the want of them was amply +compensated by the plenty of limes. + +<p>5. Limes. These were excellent, and to be bought at about twelve-pence a +hundred. We saw only two or three Seville oranges, which were almost all +rind; and there are many sorts, both of oranges and lemons, which I +shall not particularly mention, because they are neither esteemed by +Europeans nor the natives themselves. + +<p>6. Mangos. This fruit during our stay was so infested with maggots, +which bred in the inside of them, that scarcely one in three was +eatable; and the best of them were much inferior to those of Brazil: +They are generally compared by Europeans to a melting peach, which +indeed they resemble in softness and sweetness, but certainly fall much +short in flavour. The climate here, we were told, is too hot and damp +for them; but there are as many sorts of them as there are of apples in +England, and some are much superior to others. One sort, which is called +<i>Mangha Cowani</i>, has so strong a smell that a European can scarcely bear +one in the room. These, however, the natives are fond of. The three +sorts which are generally preferred, are the <i>Mangha Doodool</i>, the +<i>Mangha Santock</i>, and the <i>Mangha Gure</i>. + +<p>7. Bananas. Of these also there are innumerable sorts, but three only +are good; the <i>Pissang Mas</i>, the <i>Pissang Radja</i>, and the <i>Pissang +Ambou</i>: All these have a pleasant vinous taste, and the rest are useful +in different ways; some are fried in batter, and others are boiled and +eaten as bread. There is one which deserves the particular notice of the +botanist, because, contrary to the nature of its tribe, it is full of +seeds, and is therefore called <i>Pissang Batu</i>, or <i>Pissang Bidjie</i>; it +his however no excellence to recommend it to the taste, but the Malays +use it as a remedy for the flux. + +<p>8. Grapes. These are not in great perfection, but they are very dear; +for we could not buy a moderate bunch for less than a shilling or +eighteen-pence. + +<p>9. Tamarinds. These are in great plenty, and very cheap: The people, +however, do not put them up in the manner practised by the West Indians, +but cure them with salt, by which means they become a black mass, so +disagreeable to the sight and taste, that few Europeans chuse to meddle +with them. + +<p>10. Water melons. These are in great plenty, and very good. + +<p>11. Pumpkins. These are beyond comparison the most useful fruit that can +be carried to sea; for they will keep without any care several months, +and with sugar and lemon-juice, make a pye that can scarcely be +distinguished from one made of the best of apples; and with pepper and +salt, they are a substitute for turnips, not to be despised. + +<p>12 Papaws. This fruit when it is ripe is full of seeds, and almost +without flavour; but if when it is green it is pared, and the core taken +out, it is better than the best turnip. + +<p>13. Guava. This fruit is much commended by the inhabitants of our +islands in the West Indies, who probably have a better sort than we met +with here, where the smell of them was so disagreeably strong that it +made some of us sick; those who tasted them said, that the flavour was +equally rank. + +<p>14. Sweet sop. The <i>Annona Squammosa</i> of Linnæus. This is also a +West-Indian fruit: It consists only of a mass of large kernels, from +which a small proportion of pulp may be sucked, which is very sweet, but +has little flavour. + +<p>15. Custard apple. The <i>Annona Reticulata</i> of Linnæus. The quality of +this fruit is well expressed by its English name, which it acquired in +the West Indies; for it is as like a custard, and a good one too, as can +be imagined. + +<p>16. The cashew apple. This is seldom eaten on account of its +astringency. The nut that grows upon the top of it is well known in +Europe. + +<p>17. The cocoa-nut. This is also well known in Europe: There are several +sorts, but the best of those we found here is called <i>Calappi Edjou</i>, +and is easily known by the redness of the flesh between the skin and the +shell. + +<p>18. Mangostan. The <i>Garcinia Mangostana</i> of Linnæus. This fruit, which +is peculiar to the East Indies, is about the size of the crab apple, and +of a deep red-wine colour: On the top of it is the figure of five or six +small triangles joined in a circle, and at the bottom several hollow +green leaves, which are remains of the blossom. When they are to be +eaten, the skin, or rather flesh, must be taken off, under which are +found six or seven white kernels, placed in a circular order, and the +pulp with which these are enveloped, is the fruit, than which nothing +can be more delicious: It is a happy mixture of the tart and the sweet, +which is no less wholesome than pleasant; and with the sweet orange, +this fruit is allowed in any quantity to those who are afflicted with +fevers, either of the putrid or inflammatory kind. + +<p>19. The jamboo. The <i>Eugenia Mallaccensis</i> of Linnæus. This fruit is of +a deep red colour, and an oval shape; the largest, which are always the +best, are not bigger than a small apple; they are pleasant and cooling, +though they have not much flavour. + +<p>20. The jambu-eyer. A species of the <i>Eugenia</i> of Linnæus. Of this fruit +there are two sorts of a similar shape, resembling a bell, but differing +in colour; one being red, the other white. They somewhat exceed a large +cherry in size, and in taste have neither flavour nor even sweetness, +containing nothing but a watery juice, slightly acidulated; yet their +coolness recommends them in this hot country. + +<p>21. Jambu-eyer mauwar. The <i>Eugenia Jambos</i> of Linnæus. This is more +grateful to the smell than the taste: In taste it resembles the conserve +of roses, and in smell the fresh scent of those flowers. + +<p>22. The pomegranate. This is the same fruit that is known by the same +name all over Europe. + +<p>23. Durion. A fruit that in shape resembles a small melon, but the skin +is covered with sharp conical spines, whence its name; for <i>dure</i>, in +the Malay language, signifies prickle. When it is ripe, it divides +longitudinally into seven or eight compartments, each of which contains +six or seven nuts, not quite so large as chesnuts, which are covered +with a substance that in colour and consistence very much resembles +thick cream: This is the part that is eaten, and the natives are fond of +it to excess. To Europeans it is generally disagreeable at first; for in +taste it somewhat resembles a mixture of cream, sugar, and onions; and +in the smell, the onions predominate. + +<p>24. Nanca. This fruit, which in some parts of India is called Jakes, +has, like the Durion, a smell very disagreeable to strangers, and +somewhat resembling that of mellow apples mixed with garlic: The flavour +is not more adapted to the general taste. In some countries that are +favourable to it, it is said to grow to an immense size. Rumphius +relates, that it is sometimes so large that a man cannot easily lift it; +and we were told by a Malay, that at Madura it is sometimes so large as +not to be carried but by the united efforts of two men. At Batavia, +however, they never exceed the size of a large melon, which in shape +they very much resemble: They are covered with angular prickles, like +the shootings of some crystals, which however are not hard enough to +wound those who handle them. + +<p>25. Champada. This differs from the Nanca in little except size, it not +being so big. . + +<p>26. Rambutan. This is a fruit little known to Europeans. In appearance +it very much resembles a chesnut with the husk on, and like that, is +covered with small points, which are soft, and of a deep red colour: +Under this skin is the fruit, and within the fruit a stone; the eatable +part thereof is small in quantity, but its acid is perhaps more +agreeable than any other in the whole vegetable kingdom. + +<p>27. Jambolan. This, in size and appearance, is not unlike a damascene; +but in taste is still more astringent, and therefore less agreeable. + +<p>28. The Boa Bidarra, or <i>Rhamnus Jujuba</i> of Linnæus. This is a round +yellow fruit, about the size of a gooseberry; its flavour is like that +of an apple, but it has the astringency of a crab. + +<p>29. Nam nam. The <i>Cynometra Cauliflora</i> of Linnæus. This fruit in shape +somewhat resembles a kidney; it is about three inches long, and the +outside is very rough: It is seldom eaten raw, but fried with batter it +makes a good fritter. + +<p>30, 31. The Catappa, or <i>Terminalia Catappa</i>; and the Canare, the +<i>Canarium Commune</i> of Linnæus, are both nuts, with kernels somewhat +resembling an almond; but the difficulty of breaking the shell is so +great, that they are no where publicly sold. Those which we tasted were +gathered for curiosity by Mr Banks from the tree upon which they grew. + +<p>32. The Madja, or <i>Limoni</i> of Linnæus, contains, under a hard brittle +shell, a lightly acid pulp, which cannot be eaten without sugar; and +with it, is not generally thought pleasant. + +<p>33. Suntul. The <i>Trichilia</i> of Linnæus. This is the worst of all the +fruits that I shall particularly mention: In size and shape it resembles +the Madja, and within a thick skin contains kernels like those of the +Mangostan, the taste of which is both acid and astringent, and so +disagreeable, that we were surprised to see it exposed upon the +fruit-stalls. + +<p>34, 35, 36. The Blimbing, or <i>Averrhoa Belimbi</i>; the Blimbing Besse, or +<i>Averrhoa Carambola</i>; and the Cherrema, or <i>Averrhoa Acida</i> of Linnæus, +are three species of one genus; and though they differ in shape, are +nearly of the same taste. The Blimbing Besse is the sweetest: the other +two are so austerely acid, that they cannot be used without dressing; +they make, however, excellent pickles and sour sauce. + +<p>37. The Salack, or <i>Calamus Rotang Zalacca</i> of Linnæus. This is the +fruit of a prickly bush; it is about as big as a walnut, and covered +with scales, like those of a lizard: Below the scales are two or three +yellow kernels, in flavour somewhat resembling a strawberry. + +<p>Besides these, the island of Java, and particularly the country round +Batavia, produces many kinds of fruit which were not in season during +our stay: We were also told that apples, strawberries, and many other +fruits from Europe, had been planted up in the mountains, and flourished +there in great luxuriance. We saw several fruits preserved in sugar, +that we did not see recent from the tree, one of which is called +<i>Kimkit</i>, and another <i>Boa Atap</i>: And here are several others which are +eaten only by the natives, particularly the <i>Kellor</i>, the <i>Guilindina</i>, +the <i>Moringa</i>, and the <i>Soccum</i>. The Soccum is of the same kind with the +breadfruit in the South-Sea islands, but so much inferior, that if it +had not been for the similitude in the outward appearance both of the +fruit and the tree, we should not have referred it to that class. These +and some others do not merit to be particularly mentioned. + +<p>The quantity of fruit that is consumed at Batavia is incredible; but +that which is publicly exposed to sale is generally over-ripe. A +stranger, however, may get good fruit in a street called Passar Pissang, +which lies north from the great church, and very near it. This street is +inhabited by none but Chinese fruit-sellers, who are supplied from the +gardens of gentlemen in the neighbourhood of the town with such as is +fresh, and excellent in its kind, for which, however, they must be paid +more than four times the market price. + +<p>The town in general is supplied from a considerable distance, where +great quantities of land are cultivated merely for the production of +fruit. The country people, to whom these lands belong, meet the people +of the town at two great markets; one on Monday, called Passar Sineeu, +and the other on Saturday, called Passar Tanabank. These fairs are held +at places considerably distant from each other, for the convenience of +different districts; neither of them, however, are more than five miles +distant from Batavia. At these fairs, the best fruit may be bought at +the cheapest rate, and the sight of them to a European is very +entertaining. The quantity of fruit is astonishing; forty or fifty +cart-loads of the finest pine-apples, packed as carelessly as turnips in +England, are common, and other fruit in the same profusion. The days, +however, on which these markets are held are ill contrived; the time +between Saturday and Monday is too short, and that between Monday and +Saturday too long: Great part of what is bought on Monday is always much +the worse for keeping before a new stock can be bought, either by the +retailer or consumer; so that for several days in every week there is no +good fruit in the hands of any people but the Chinese in Passar Pissang. + +<p>The inhabitants of this part of India practise a luxury which seems to +be but little attended to in other countries; they are continually +burning aromatic woods and resins, and scatter odours round them in a +profusion of flowers, possibly as an antidote to the noisome effluvia of +their ditches and canals. Of sweet-smelling flowers they have a great +variety, altogether unknown in Europe, the chief of which I shall +briefly describe. + +<p>1. The <i>Champacka</i>, or <i>Michelia Champacca</i>. This grows upon a tree as +large as an apple-tree, and consists of fifteen long narrow petala, +which give it the appearance of being double, though in reality it is +not so: Its colour is yellow, and much deeper than that of a jonquil, to +which it has some resemblance in smell. + +<p>2. The <i>Cananga</i>, or <i>Uvaria Cananga</i>, is a green flower, not at all +resembling the blossom of any tree or plant in Europe: It has indeed +more the appearance of a bunch of leaves than a flower; its scent is +agreeable, but altogether peculiar to itself. + +<p>3. The <i>Mulatti</i>, or <i>Nyctanthes Sambac</i>. This is well known in English +hot-houses by the name of Arabian jessamine: It grows here in the +greatest profusion, and its fragrance, like that of all other Indian +flowers, though exquisitely pleasing, has not that overpowering strength +which distinguishes some of the same sorts in Europe. + +<p>4, 5. The <i>Combang Caracnassi</i>, and <i>Combang Tonquin, Percularia +Glabro</i>. These are small flowers, of the dog's-bane kind, very much +resembling each other in shape and smell, highly fragrant, but very +different from every product of an English garden. + +<p>6. The <i>Bonga Tanjong</i>, or <i>Mimusops Elengi</i> of Linnaeus. This flower is +shaped like a star of seven or eight rays, and is about half an inch in +diameter: It is of a yellowish colour, and has an agreeable smell. + +Besides these, there is the <i>Sundal Malam</i>, or <i>Polianthes Tuberosa</i>. +This flower, being the same with our own tuberose, can have no place +among those that are unknown in Europe; but I mention it for its Malay +name, which signifies "Intriguer of the night," and is not inelegantly +conceived. The heat of this climate is so great, that few flowers exhale +their sweets in the day; and this in particular, from its total want of +scent at that time, and the modesty of its colour, which is white, +seems negligent of attracting admirers, but as soon as night comes on, +it diffuses its fragrance, and at once compels the attention, and +excites the complacency, of all who approach it. + +<p>These are all sold about the streets every evening at sunset, either +strung upon a thread, in wreaths of about two feet long, or made up into +nosegays of different forms, either of which may be purchased for about +a half-penny. Besides these, there are, in private gardens, many other +sweet flowers, which are not produced in a sufficient quantity to be +brought to market. With a mixture of these flowers, and the leaves of a +plant called <i>Pandang</i>, cut into small pieces, persons of both sexes +fill their hair and their clothes, and with the same mixture indulge a +much higher luxury by strewing it on their beds; so that the chamber in +which they sleep breathes the richest and purest of all odours, +unallayed by the fumes which cannot but arise where the sleeper lies +under two or three blankets and a quilt, for the bed covering here is +nothing more than a single piece of fine chintz. + +<p>Before I close my account of the vegetable productions of this part of +India, I must take some notice of the spices. Java originally produced +none but pepper. This is now sent from hence into Europe to a great +value, but the quantity consumed here is very small: The inhabitants use +<i>Capsicum</i>, or, as it is called in Europe, Cayan pepper, almost +universally in its stead. Cloves and nutmegs, having been monopolized by +the Dutch, are become too dear to be plentifully used by the other +inhabitants of this country, who are very fond of them. Cloves, although +they are said originally to have been the produce of Machian, or +Bachian, a small island far to the eastward, and only fifteen miles to +the northward of the line, and to have been from thence disseminated by +the Dutch, at their first coming into these parts, over all the eastern +islands, are now confined to Amboina, and the small isles that lie in +its neighbourhood; the Dutch having, by different treaties of peace +between them and the conquered kings of all the other islands, +stipulated, that they should have only a certain number of trees in +their dominions; and in future quarrels, as a punishment for +disobedience and rebellion, lessened the quantity, till at last they +left them no claim to any. Nutmegs have in a manner been extirpated in +all the islands except their first native soil, Banda, which easily +supplies every nation upon earth, and would as easily supply every +nation in another globe of the same dimensions, if there was any such +to which the industrious Hollander could transport the commodity: It is, +however, certain, that there are a few trees of this spice upon the +coast of New Guinea. There may perhaps be both cloves and nutmegs upon +other islands to the eastward; for those, neither the Dutch, nor any +other European, seem to think it worth while to examine. + +<p>The principal tame quadrupeds of this country, are horses, cattle, +buffaloes, sheep, goats, and hogs The horses are small, never exceeding +in size what we call a stout galloway, but they are nimble and spirited, +and are reported to have been found here when the Europeans first came +round the Cape of Good Hope. The horned cattle are said to be the same +species as those in Europe, but they differ so much in appearance, that +we were inclined to doubt it: They have indeed the <i>palearia</i> or +<i>dewlap</i>, which naturalists make the distinguishing characteristic of +the European species, but they certainly are found wild, not only in +Java, but several of the eastern islands. The flesh of those that we eat +at Batavia, had a finer grain than European beef, but it was less juicy, +and miserably lean. Buffaloes are plenty, but the Dutch never eat them, +nor will they drink their milk, being prepossessed with a notion that +both are unwholesome, and tend to produce fevers; though the natives and +Chinese eat both, without any injury to their health. The sheep are of +the kind which have long ears that hang down, and hair instead of wool: +The flesh of these is hard and tough, and in every respect the worst +mutton we ever saw. We found here, however, a few Cape sheep, which are +excellent, but so dear that we gave five-and-forty shillings a-piece for +four of them, the heaviest of which weighed only five-and-forty pounds. +The goats are not better than the sheep; but the hogs, especially the +Chinese breed, are incomparable, and so fat, that the purchaser agrees +for the lean separately. The butcher, who is always a Chinese, without +the least scruple cuts off as much of the fat as he is desired, and +afterwards sells it to his countrymen, who melt it down, and eat it +instead of butter with their rice: But notwithstanding the excellence of +this pork, the Dutch are so strongly prejudiced in favour of every thing +that comes from their native country, that they eat only of the Dutch +breed, which are here sold as much dearer than the Chinese, as the +Chinese are sold dearer than the Dutch in Europe. + +<p>Besides these animals, which are tame, they have dogs and cats, and +there are among the distant mountains some wild horses and cattle: +Buffaloes are not found wild in any part of Java, though they abound in +Macassar, and several other eastern islands. The neighbourhood of +Batavia, however, is plentifully supplied with two kinds of deer, and +wild hogs, which are sold at a reasonable price by the Portuguese, who +shoot them, and are very good food. + +<p>Among the mountains, and in the desert parts of the island, there are +tigers, it is said, in great abundance, and some rhinoceroses: In these +parts also there are monkies, and there are a few of them even in the +neighbourhood of Batavia. + +<p>Of fish, here is an amazing plenty; many sorts are excellent, and all +are very cheap, except the few that are scarce. It happens here, as in +other places, that vanity gets the better even of appetite: The cheap +fish, most of which is of the best kind, is the food only of slaves, and +that which is dear, only because it is scarce, and very much inferior in +every respect, is placed upon the tables of the rich. A. sensible +house-keeper once spoke to us freely upon the subject. "I know," said +he, "as well as you, that I could purchase a better dish of fish for a +shilling, than what now costs me ten; but if I should make so good a use +of my money, I should here be as much despised, as you would be in +Europe, if you were to cover your table with offals, fit only for +beggars, or dogs." + +<p>Turtle is also found here, but it is neither so sweet nor so fat as the +West-Indian turtle, even in London; such as it is, however, we should +consider it as a dainty; but the Dutch, among other singularities, do +not eat it. We saw some lizards, or Iguanas, here of a very large size; +we were told that some were as thick as a man's thigh, and Mr Banks shot +one that was five feet long: The flesh of this animal proved to be very +good food. + +<p>Poultry is very good here, and in great plenty: Fowls of a very large +size, ducks, and geese, are very cheap; pigeons are dear, and the price +of turkies extravagant. We sometimes found the flesh of these animals +lean and dry, but this was merely the effect of their being ill fed, for +those that we fed ourselves were as good as any of the same kind that we +had tasted in Europe, and we sometimes thought them even better. + +<p>Wild fowl in general is scarce. We once saw a wild duck in the fields, +but never any that were to be sold. We frequently saw snipes of two +kinds, one of them exactly the same as that in Europe; and a kind of +thrush was always to be had in great plenty of the Portuguese, who, for +I know not what reason, seem to have monopolized the wild fowl and game. +Of snipes, it is remarkable, that they are found in more parts of the +world than any other bird, being common almost all over Europe, Asia, +Africa, and America. + +<p>With respect to drink, Nature has not been quite so liberal to the +inhabitants of Java as to some whom she has placed in the less fruitful +regions of the north. The native Javanese, and most of the other Indians +who inhabit this island, are indeed Mahometans, and therefore have no +reason to regret the want of wine; but, as if the prohibition of their +law respected only the manner of becoming drunk, and not drunkenness +itself, they chew opium, to the total subversion not only of their +understanding, but their health.[148] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 148: Besides opium, both betel and a sort of tobacco is much +used by most people at Batavia. A lady scarcely ever goes out unattended +by a slave, who carries her betel box, to which she very frequently has +recourse. The constant use of this substance has a very unpleasant (i. +e. according to European opinion) effect on the teeth, rendering them +quite black! This, however, is not thought any disparagement of their +beauty, and it is believed that the toothache is prevented by the +practice of chewing. A few additional remarks on this subject are given +in the following section.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The arrack that is made here, is too well known to need a description: +Besides which, the palm yields a wine of the same kind with that which +has already been described in the account of the island of Savu: It is +procured from the same tree, in the same manner, and is sold in three +states. The first, in which it is called <i>Tuac manise</i>, differs little +from that in which it comes from the tree; yet even this has received +some preparation altogether unknown to us, in consequence of which it +will keep eight-and-forty hours, though otherwise it would spoil in +twelve: In this state it has an agreeable sweetness, and will not +intoxicate. In the other two states it has undergone a fermentation, and +received an infusion of certain herbs and roots, by which it loses its +sweetness, and acquires a taste very austere and disagreeable. In one of +these states it's called <i>Tuac cras</i>, and in the other <i>Tuac cuning</i>, +but the specific difference I do not know; in both, however, it +intoxicates very powerfully. A liquor called Tuac is also made from the +cocoa-nut tree, but this is used chiefly to put into the arrack, for in +that which is good it is an essential ingredient. + +<p>SECTION XXXIX. + +<p><i>Some Account of the Inhabitants of Batavia, and the adjacent Country, +their Manners, Customs, and Manner of Life</i>. + +<p>The town of Batavia, although, as I have already observed, it is the +capital of the Dutch dominions in India, is so far from being peopled +with Dutchmen, that not one-fifth part, even of the European inhabitants +of the town, and its environs, are natives of Holland, or of Dutch +extraction: The greater part are Portuguese, and besides Europeans, +there are Indians of various nations, and Chinese, besides a great +number of negro slaves.[149] In the troops, there are natives of almost +every country in Europe, but the Germans are more than all the rest put +together; there are some English and French, but the Dutch, though other +Europeans are permitted to get money here, keep all the power in their +own hands, and consequently possess all public employments. No man, of +whatever nation, can come hither to settle, in any other character than +that of a soldier in the Company's service, in which, before they are +accepted, they must covenant to remain five years. As soon, however, as +this form has been complied with, they are allowed, upon application to +the council, to absent themselves from their corps, and enter +immediately into any branch of trade which their money or credit will +enable them to carry on; and by this means it is that all the white +inhabitants of the place are soldiers. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 149: Mr Barrow estimates the population of Batavia, and the +adjacent villages, at 116,000, of which only about 8000 are Europeans; +the slaves are supposed 17,000, the Chinese 22,000, and the remainder +consists of free Javanese or Malays. The streets of Batavia, he says, +present a greater variety of races than are almost any where else to be +found together. Among these, however, as is to be expected, the Dutchman +is by much the most consequential, when he condescends, which is not +frequent, to appear amongst the lower species. Mr B.'s description of +this important being may amuse the reader. "The Dutchman, whose +predominant vice in Europe is avarice, rising into affluence in an +unhealthy foreign settlement, almost invariably changes this part of his +character, and, with a thorough contempt of the frugal maxim of Molier's +L'Avare, lives to eat, rather than eats to live. His motto is, 'Let us +eat and drink, for tomorrow we die.' He observes, it is true, the old +maxim of rising at an early hour in the morning, not however for the +sake of enjoying the cool breeze, and of taking moderate exercise, but +rather to begin the day's career of eating and drinking. His first essay +is usually a <i>sopie</i>, or glass of gin to which succeed a cup of coffee +and a pipe. His stomach thus fortified, he lounges about the great hall +of the house, or the viranda, if in the country, with a loose +night-gown, carelessly thrown over his shoulders, a night-cap and +slippers, till about eight o'clock, which is the usual hour of +breakfast. This is generally a solid meal of dried meat, fish, and +poultry, made into curries, eggs, rice, strong beer, and spirits. +<i>Currie</i> and rice is a standing dish at all meals, and at all seasons of +the year, being considered as an excellent stimulus to the stomach. The +business of the day occupies little more than a couple of hours, from +ten to twelve, when he again sits down to dinner, a meal that is +somewhat more solid than the breakfast. From table he retires to sleep, +and remains invisible till about five in the evening, when he rises and +prepares for a ride or a walk, from which he uniformly returns to a +smoking-hot supper." So much for the portly Dutchman at Batavia,--a sort +of animal not unsuccessfully emulated, as to substantials, by a certain +<i>genus</i> in some islands of the West Indies!-E.]--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Women, however, of all nations, are permitted to settle here, without +coming under any restrictions; yet we were told that there were not, +when we arrived at Batavia, twenty women in the place that were born in +Europe, but that the white women, who were by no means scarce, were +descendants from European parents of the third or fourth generation, the +gleanings of many families who had successively come hither, and in the +male line become extinct; for it is certain that, whatever be the cause, +this climate is not so fatal to the ladies as to the other sex. + +<p>These women imitate the Indians in every particular; their dress is made +of the same materials, their hair is worn in the same manner, and they +are equally enslaved by the habit of chewing betel. + +<p>The merchants carry on their business here with less trouble perhaps +than in any other part of the world: Every manufacture is managed by the +Chinese, who sell the produce of their labour to the merchant resident +here, for they are permitted to sell it to no one else; so that when a +ship comes in, and bespeaks perhaps a hundred leagers of arrack, or any +quantity of other commodities, the merchant has nothing to do but to +send orders to his Chinese to see them delivered on board: He obeys the +command, brings a receipt, signed by the master of the ship, for the +goods to his employer, who receives the money, and having deducted his +profit, pays the Chinese his demand. With goods that are imported, +however, the merchant has a little more trouble, for these he must +examine, receive, and lay up in his warehouse, according to the practice +of other countries. + +<p>The Portuguese are called by the natives Oranserrne, or Nazareen men +(Oran, being Man in the language of the country,) to distinguish them +from other Europeans; yet they are included in the general appellation +of <i>Caper</i>, or <i>Cafir</i>, an opprobrious term, applied by Mahometans to +all who do not profess their faith. These people, however, are +Portuguese only in name; they have renounced the religion of Rome, and +become Lutherans: Neither have they the least communication with the +country of their forefathers, or even knowledge of it: They speak indeed +a corrupt dialect of the Portuguese language, but much more frequently +use the Malay: They are never suffered to employ themselves in any but +mean occupations: Many of them live by hunting, many by washing linen, +and some are handicraftsmen and artificers. They have adopted all the +customs of the Indians, from whom they are distinguished chiefly by +their features and complexion, their skin being considerably darker, and +their noses more sharp; their dress is exactly the same, except in the +manner of wearing their hair. + +<p>The Indians, who are mixed with the Dutch and Portuguese in the town of +Batavia, and the country adjacent, are not, as might be supposed, +Javanese, the original natives of the island, but natives of the various +islands from which the Dutch import slaves, and are either such as have +themselves been manumized, or the descendants of those who formerly +received manumission; and they are all comprehended under the general +name of <i>Oranslam</i>, or <i>Isalam</i>, signifying believers of the true faith. +The natives of every country, however, in other respects, keep +themselves distinct from the rest, and are not less strongly marked than +the slaves by the vices or virtues of their respective nations. Many of +these employ themselves in the cultivation of gardens, and in selling +fruit and flowers. The betel and areca, which are here called <i>siri</i> and +<i>pinang</i>, and chewed by both sexes and every rank in amazing quantities, +are all grown by these Indians: Lime is also mixed with these roots here +as it is in Savu, but it is less pernicious to the teeth, because it is +first slaked, and, besides the lime, a substance called <i>gambir</i>, which +is brought from the continent of India; the better sort of women also +add cardamum, and many other aromatics, to give the breath an agreeable +smell. Some of the Indians, however, are employed in fishing, and as +lightermen, to carry goods from place to place by water; and some are +rich, and live with much of the splendour of their country, which +chiefly consists in the number of their slaves. + +<p>In the article of food, these Isalams are remarkably temperate: It +consists chiefly of boiled rice, with a small portion of buffalo, fish, +or fowl, and sometimes of dried fish, and dried shrimps, which are +brought hither from China; every dish, however, is highly seasoned with +Cayan pepper, and they have many kinds of pastry made of rice-flour, and +other things to which I am a stranger; they eat also a great deal of +fruit, particularly plantains. + +<p>But notwithstanding their general temperance their feasts are +plentiful, and, according to their manner, magnificent. As they are +Mahometans, wine and strong liquors professedly make no part of their +entertainment, neither do they often indulge with them privately, +contenting themselves with their betel and opium. + +<p>The principal solemnity among them is a wedding, upon which occasion +both the families borrow as many ornaments of gold and silver as they +can, to adorn the bride and bridegroom, so that their dresses are very +showy and magnificent. The feasts that are given upon these occasions +among the rich, last sometimes a fortnight, and sometimes longer; and +during this time the man, although married on the first day, is, by the +women, kept from his wife. + +<p>The language that is spoken among all these people, from what place +soever they originally came, is the Malay; at least, it is a language so +called, and probably it is a very corrupt dialect of that spoken at +Malacca. Every little island, indeed, has a language of its own, and +Java has two or three, but this lingua franca is the only language that +is now spoken here, and, as I am told, it prevails over a great part of +the East Indies. A dictionary of Malay and English was published in +London by Thomas Bowrey, in the year 1701.[150] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 150: What is here said of the Malay language cannot be +implicitly relied on, information on the subject being exceedingly +scanty at the time of the publication. Mr Marsden has lately favoured +the world with both dictionary and grammar of the Malay, of which a very +important account will be found in the Edinburgh Review for April +1814.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Their women wear as much hair as can grow upon the head, and to increase +the quantity, they use oils, and other preparations of various kinds. Of +this ornament Nature has been very liberal; it is universally black, and +is formed into a kind of circular wreath upon the top of the head, where +it is fastened with a bodkin, in a taste which we thought inexpressibly +elegant: The wreath of hair is surrounded by another of flowers, in +which the Arabian jessamine is beautifully intermixed with the golden +stars of the <i>bonger tanjong</i>. + +<p>Both sexes constantly bathe themselves in the river at least once +a-day, a practice which, in this hot country, is equally necessary both +to personal delicacy and health. The teeth of these people also, +whatever they may suffer in their colour by chewing betel, are an object +of great attention: The ends of them, both in the upper and under jaw, +are rubbed with a kind of whetstone, by a very troublesome and painful +operation, till they are perfectly even and flat, so that they cannot +lose less than half a line in their length. A deep groove is then made +across the teeth of the upper jaw, parallel with the gums, and in the +middle between them and the extremity of the teeth; the depth of this +groove is at least equal to one-fourth of the thickness of the teeth, so +that it penetrates far beyond what is called the enamel, the least +injury to which, according to the dentists of Europe, is fatal; yet +among these people, where the practice of thus wounding the enamel is +universal, we never saw a rotten tooth; nor is the blackness a stain, +but a covering, which may be washed off at pleasure, and the teeth, then +appear as white as ivory, which, however, is not an excellence in the +estimation of the belles and beaux of these nations. + +<p>These are the people among whom the practice that is called a <i>mock</i>, or +running a muck, has prevailed for time immemorial. It is well known, +that to run a muck, in the original sense of the word, is to get +intoxicated with opium, and then rush into the street with a drawn +weapon, and kill whoever comes in the way, till the party is himself +either killed or taken prisoner; of this several instances happened +while we were at Batavia, and one of the officers, whose business it is, +among other things, to apprehend such people, told us, that there was +scarcely a week in which he, or some of his brethren, were not called +upon to take one of them into custody. In one of the instances that came +to our knowledge, the party had been severely injured by the perfidy of +women, and was mad with jealousy before he made himself drunk with +opium; and we were told, that the Indian who runs a muck is always first +driven to desperation by some outrage, and always first revenges himself +upon those who have done him wrong: We were also told, that though these +unhappy wretches afterwards run into the street with a weapon in their +hand, frantic and foaming at the mouth, yet they never kill any but +those who attempt to apprehend them, or those whom they suspect of such +an intention, and that whoever gives them way is safe. They are +generally slaves, who indeed are most subject to insults, and least able +to obtain legal redress: Freemen, however, are sometimes provoked into +this extravagance, and one of the persons who ran a muck while we were +at Batavia, was free, and in easy circumstances. He was jealous of his +own brother, whom he first killed, and afterwards two others, who +attempted to oppose him: He did not, however, come out of his house, but +endeavoured to defend himself in it, though the opium had so far +deprived him of his senses, that of three muskets, which he attempted to +use against the officers of justice, not one was either loaded or +primed. If the officer takes one of these amocks, or mohawks, as they +have been called by an easy corruption, alive, his reward is very +considerable, but if he kills them, nothing is added to his usual pay; +yet such is the fury of their desperation, that three out of four are of +necessity destroyed in the attempt to secure them, though the officers +are provided with instruments like large tongs, or pincers, to lay hold +of them without coming within the reach of their weapon. Those who +happen to be taken alive are generally wounded, but they are always +broken alive upon the wheel, and if the physician who is appointed to +examine their wounds thinks them likely to be mortal, the punishment is +inflicted immediately, and the place of execution is generally the spot +where the first murder was committed.[151] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 151: The word <i>amock</i>, which is vulgarly applied to this most +extraordinary exhibition of ferocious despair, signifies, in the native +language, <i>kill</i>, and is often vociferated by the unhappy madmen as they +prowl the streets, intent on vengeance. There is reason to believe that +opium is no otherwise concerned in producing such frenzy than as it +contributes to keep up the passions which had been previously raised, +and to render the persons under their influence insensible to the +dangers that beset them:--In the same manner as in other countries, the +intemperate use of spirits produces a sort of temporary, but often +fatal, and always hazardous derangement. The Malays are remarkable for +ferocity of temper, and are, at the same time, exceedingly liable to +jealousy, and to take offence. It is usually after such occurrences as +excite their bad passions, that they take to opium and are at last +wrought up to the madness of the "amock," which ends their days and +griefs together.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Among these people there are many absurd practices and opinions which +they derive from their pagan ancestors: They believe that the devil, +whom they call Satan, is the cause of all sickness and adversity, and +for this reason, when they are sick, or in distress, they consecrate +meat, money, and other things to him as a propitiation. If any one among +them is restless, and dreams for two or three nights successively, he +concludes that Satan has taken that method of laying his commands upon +him, which if he neglects to fulfil, he will certainly suffer sickness +or death, though they are not revealed with sufficient perspicuity to +ascertain their meaning: To interpret his dream, therefore, he taxes his +wits to the uttermost, and if, by taking it literally or figuratively, +directly or by contraries, he can put no explanation upon it that +perfectly satisfies him, he has recourse to the cawin, or priest, who +assists him with a comment and illustrations, and perfectly reveals the +mysterious suggestions of the night. It generally appears that the devil +wants victuals or money, which are always allotted him, and being placed +on a little plate of cocoa-nut leaves, are hung upon the branch of a +tree near the river, so that it seems not to be the opinion of these +people, that in prowling the earth "the devil walketh through dry +places." Mr Banks once asked, whether they thought Satan spent the +money, or eat the victuals? he was answered, that as to the money, it +was considered rather as a mulct upon an offender, than a gift to him +who had enjoined it, and that therefore, if it was devoted by the +dreamer, it mattered not into whose hands it came, and they supposed +that it was generally the prize of some stranger who wandered that way; +but as to the meat, they were clearly of opinion that although the devil +did not eat the gross parts, yet, by bringing his mouth near it, he +sucked out all its savour without changing its position, so that +afterwards it was as tasteless as water.[152] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 152: The people of Borneo are said to have a similar mode of +placating the devil by means of victuals, &c. A curious account of it is +given by Capt. Daniel Beeckman, in his relation of a voyage to that +island, published at London, 1718. The following extract may +amuse:--"There was one Cay Deponattee, a very honest man, who often used +to visit us; he happened to come one day when Mr Becher was delirious, +(being ill of a fever) and perceiving him to be very earnest in +speaking, he asked us what he talked of? We told him he was seila, that +is, light-headed; and we explained to him what extravagant things he +said. Whereupon he told us, that he was possessed with the devil, and +that it was not he that spoke, but the devil that was within him. He +begged that we would carry some fowls, rice, and fruit, and offer it to +the devil in the woods, where they have certain places for that purpose, +and that then the devil would leave him; for, says he, what signifies +the expence? We answered him, that we knew better things, and that his +illness did not proceed from what he imagined; that we Christians feared +not the devil, for that he had no power to hurt any but those that put +their trust in him, and not in God. The old man laughed at our notions, +and said, that their sultan was of our opinion, but that, for his own +part, he knew otherwise by experience. The next day he came to see him +again; and upon his enquiry how he did, Mr Becher (being then sensible) +answered him, that he was something better, but that he had a great pain +across his stomach. 'Ay,' says the old man, 'I told you yesterday what +the matter was, but you are fools, and would not believe me, nor be +ruled by me; but though the devil is gone, he has smote you on the +stomach; and without you follow my directions, you will certainly die in +a very little time.' Then he desired that his wife might go and make +such offerings; but Mr Becher answered, that she might do what she +pleased, but not on his account, for that he would rather lose his life +than be beholden to the devil for it. The manner of these offerings is +thus; When any person is very ill, especially in the condition Mr B. +was, imagining him to be possessed, they buy the aforesaid provisions; +and having dressed them with as much care as if they were to make a +splendid entertainment, they carry this banquet into the woods to a +certain house or shed, built always under the largest trees near the +water side, where they leave it. As to what ceremonies of prayer, &c., +they use on this occasion, I know not particularly, only that they +invite the devil very kindly to it, assuring him that it is very good, +and well dressed, and begging him to accept it. Now these woods are so +full of monkeys, that if never so much was left at night, they would +devour it before morning, which these ignorant creatures believe to be +eaten by the devil; and if the person recovers, they think themselves +very much obliged to him for his civility and good nature, and, by way +of thanks, they send him more; but if the person dies, then they revile +against him, calling him a cross ill-natured devil, that he is often a +deceiver, and that he has been very ungrateful in accepting the present, +and then killing their friend: In fine, they are very angry with him." +He mentions some other ways of enchanting away distempers, where such +offerings to the devil are no inconsiderable part of the +prescription.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>But they have another superstitious opinion that is still more +unaccountable. They believe that women, when they are delivered of +children, are frequently at the same time delivered of a young +crocodile, as a twin to the infant: They believe that these creatures +are received most carefully by the midwife, and immediately carried down +to the river, and put into the water. The family in which such a birth +is supposed to have happened constantly put victuals into the river for +their amphibious relation, and especially the twin, who, as long as he +lives, gets down to the river at stated seasons, to fulfil this +fraternal duly, for the neglect of which it is the universal opinion +that he will be visited with sickness or death. What could at first +produce a notion so extravagant and absurd, it is not easy to guess, +especially as it seems to be totally unconnected with any religious +mystery, and how a fact which never happened, should be pretended to +happen every day, by those who cannot be deceived into a belief of it by +appearances, nor have any apparent interest in the fraud, is a problem +still more difficult to solve. Nothing however can be more certain than +the firm belief of this strange absurdity among them, for we had the +concurrent testimony of every Indian who was questioned about it, in its +favour. It seems to have taken its rise in the islands of Celebes and +Boutou, where many of the inhabitants keep crocodiles in their families; +but however that be, the opinion has spread over all the eastern +islands, even to Timor and Ceram, and westward as far as Java and +Sumatra, where, however, young crocodiles are, I believe, never +kept.[153] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 153: Maximus Tyrius tells us a story of an Egyptian woman +having brought up a young crocodile as a companion to her son, who was +much about the same age. Things went on very well with these two friends +for a considerable time; but the crocodile gaining strength and the +common properties of his species, at last devoured his comrade. The +Egyptians, it is well known, had a peculiar regard for this animal, and +esteemed it as sacred. What could have given rise to the strange notions +mentioned in the text, the writer is utterly unable to conjecture, and +he does not recollect any relation or circumstances that can illustrate +them.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>These crocodile twins are called <i>sudaras</i>, and I shall Relate one of +the innumerable stories that were told us, in proof of their existence, +from ocular demonstration. + +<p>A young female slave, who was born and bred up among the English at +Bencoolen, and had learnt a little of the language, told Mr Banks, that +her father, when he was dying, acquainted her that he had a crocodile +for his <i>sudara</i>, and solemnly charged her to give him meat when he +should be dead, telling her in what part of the river he was to be +found, and by what name he was to be called up: That in pursuance of her +father's instructions and command, she went to the river, and standing +upon the bank, called out, <i>Radja Pouti</i>, white king, upon which a +crocodile came to her out of the water, and eat from her hand the +provisions that she had brought him. When she was desired to describe +this paternal uncle, who in so strange a shape had taken up his dwelling +in the water, she said, that he was not like other crocodiles, but much +handsomer; that his body was spotted, and his nose red; that he had +bracelets of gold upon his feet, and ear-rings of the same metal in his +ears. Mr Banks heard this tale of ridiculous falsehood patiently to the +end, and then dismissed the girl, without reminding her that a crocodile +with ears was as strange a monster as a dog with a cloven foot. Some +time after this, a servant whom Mr Banks had hired at Batavia, and who +was the son of a Dutchman by a Javanese woman, thought fit to acquaint +his master that he had seen a crocodile of the same kind, which had also +been seen by many others, both Dutchmen and Malays: That being very +young, it was but two feet long, and had bracelets of gold upon its +feet. There is no giving credit to these stories, said Mr Banks, for I +was told the other day that a crocodile had ear-rings, and you know that +could not be true, because crocodiles have no ears. Ah, sir, said the +man, these sudara oran are not like other crocodiles; they have five +toes upon each foot, a large tongue that fills their mouth, and ears +also, although they are indeed very small. + +<p>How much of what these people related, they believed, cannot be known; +for there are no bounds to the credulity of ignorance and folly. In the +girl's relation, however, there are some things in which she could not +be deceived; and therefore must have been guilty of wilful falsehood. +Her father might perhaps give her a charge to feed a crocodile, in +consequence of his believing that it was his sudara; but its coming to +her out of the river when she called it by the name of white king, and +taking the food she had brought it, must have been a fable of her own +invention; for this being false, it was impossible that she should +believe it to be true. The girl's story, however, as well as that of the +man, is a strong proof that they both firmly believed the existence of +crocodiles that are sudaras to men; and the girl's fiction will be +easily accounted for, if we recollect that the earnest desire which +every one feels to make others believe what he believes himself, is a +strong temptation to support it by unjustifiable evidence. And the +averring what is known to be false, in order to produce in others the +belief of what is thought to be true, must, upon the most charitable +principles, be imputed to many, otherwise venerable characters, through +whose hands the doctrines of Christianity passed for many ages in their +way to us, as the source of all the silly fables related of the Romish +saints, many of them not less extravagant and absurd than this story of +the white king, and all of them the invention of the first relater.[154] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 154: It is no doubt very true, that many of the <i>pious +frauds</i>, as they have been called, are as absurd as the story alluded +to; but really there does not seem to be any occasion whatever for +lugging them in here, in order to shew a sort of malicious contempt of +those who framed them. Dr Hawkesworth, it is very clear, kept himself +much on the look-out for subjects capable of serving as baits for the +greedy scoffers of his day. Few people have candour or patience enough +to discriminate betwixt truth and its counterpart, when religion is to +be investigated; and nothing is more common among the witlings, than a +sneer at the bullion, because of its being occasionally blended with +dross. But such behaviour has much stronger indications of spite than +claims to the merit of ability or good sense.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The Bougis, Macassars, and Boetons, are so firmly persuaded that they +have relations of the crocodile species in the rivers of their own +country, that they perform a periodical ceremony in remembrance of them. +Large parties of them go out in a boat, furnished with great plenty of +provisions, and all kinds of music, and row backwards and forwards, in +places where crocodiles and alligators are most common, singing and +weeping by turns, each invoking his kindred, till a crocodile appears, +when the music instantly stops, and provisions, betel, and tobacco are +thrown into the water. By this civility to the species, they hope to +recommend themselves to their relations at home, and that it will be +accepted instead of offerings immediately to themselves, which it is not +in their power to pay. + +<p>In the next rank to the Indians stand the Chinese, who in this place are +numerous, but possess very little property; many of then live within the +walls, and keep shops. The fruit-sellers of Passar-Pissang have been +mentioned already; but others have a rich show of European and Chinese +goods: The far greater part, however, live in a quarter by themselves, +without the walls, called Campang China. Many of them are carpenters, +joiners, smiths, tailors, slipper-makers, dyers of cotton, and +embroiderers, maintaining the character of industry that is universally +given of them; and some are scattered about the country, where they +cultivate gardens, sow rice and sugar, and keep cattle and buffaloes, +whose milk they bring daily to town.[155] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 155: The Chinese who carry on any trade or profession, <i>i.e.</i> +almost all of them, pay a monthly tax to the government. In Stavorinus's +time, this was about six shillings sterling a-piece.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>There is nothing clean or dirty, honest or dishonest, provided there is +not too much danger of a halter, that the Chinese will not readily do +for money. But though they work with great diligence, and patiently +undergo any degree of labour, yet no sooner have they laid down their +tools than they begin to game, either at cards or dice, or some other +play among the multitude that they have invented, which are altogether +unknown in Europe: To this they apply with such eagerness as scarcely to +allow time for the necessary refreshments of food and sleep; so that it +is as rare to see a Chinese idle, as it is to see a Dutchman or an +Indian employed. + +<p>In manners they are always civil, or rather obsequious; and in dress +they are remarkably neat and clean, to whatever rank of life they +belong.[156] I shall not attempt a description either of their persons +or habits, for the better kind of China paper, which is now common in +England, exhibits a perfect representation of both, though perhaps with +some slight exaggerations approaching towards the caricatura. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 156: Whatever may be their personal cleanliness in appearance, +their moral impurity, according to all accounts, is most gross and +detestable. We shall not pollute our page by the slightest mention of +the abominable gratifications in which they are said to indulge, +contrary to the most palpable enactments of nature.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>In eating, they are easily satisfied, though the few that are rich have +many savory dishes. Rice, with a small proportion of flesh or fish, is +the food of the poor; and they have greatly the advantage of the +Mahometan Indians, whose religion forbids them to eat of many things +which they could most easily procure. The Chinese, on the contrary, +being under no restraint, eat, besides pork, dogs, cats, frogs, lizards, +serpents of many kinds, and a great variety of sea-animals, which the +other inhabitants of this country do not consider as food: They also eat +many vegetables, which an European, except he was perishing with hunger, +would never touch.[157] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 157: The reader may turn to our account of Anson's voyage for +some particulars respecting their taste. Indeed, in almost every voyage +he will find abundantly disgusting information of this singularly +unamiable people. It is but fair, however, to allow them credit for one +of the virtues of necessity. Their capability of subsisting on such food +as others reject, is a very requisite part of education in their own +country, where the danger of famine is so great and frequent.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The Chinese have a singular superstition with regard to the burial of +their dead; for they will upon no occasion open the ground a second time +where a body has been interred. Their burying-grounds, therefore, in the +neighbourhood of Batavia, cover many hundred acres, and the Dutch, +grudging the waste of so much land, will not sell any for this purpose +but at the most exorbitant price. The Chinese, however, contrive to +raise the purchase-money, and afford another instance of the folly and +weakness of human nature, in transferring a regard for the living to the +dead, and making that the object of solicitude and expence, which cannot +receive the least benefit from either. Under the influence of this +universal prejudice, they take an uncommon method to preserve the body +entire, and prevent the remains of it from being mixed with the earth +that surrounds it. They enclose it in a large thick coffin of wood, not +made of planks joined together, but hollowed out of the solid timber +like a canoe; this being covered, and let down into the grave, is +surrounded with a coat of their mortar, called chinam, about eight or +ten inches thick, which in a short time becomes as hard as a stone. The +relations of the deceased attend the funeral ceremony, with a +considerable number of women that are hired to weep: It might reasonably +be supposed that the hired appearance of sorrow could no more flatter +the living than benefit the dead, yet the appearance of sorrow is known +to be hired among people much more reflective and enlightened than the +Chinese. In Batavia, the law requires that every man should be buried +according to his rank, which is in no case dispensed with; so that if +the deceased has not left sufficient to pay his debts, an officer takes +an inventory of what was in his possession when he died, and out of the +produce buries him in the manner prescribed, leaving only the overplus +to his creditors. Thus in many instances are the living sacrificed to +the dead, and money that should discharge a debt, or feed an orphan, +lavished in idle processions, or materials that are deposited in the +earth to rot.[158] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 158: Their veneration for the dead is certainly excessive, and +by no means in unison with the rest of their character, which seems to +be made up of the grossest selfishness, avarice, and apathy. They often +visit the graves of their friends, strew flowers around them, and when +they leave them, deposit presents and sundry articles of provisions, +which, of course, are soon removed, though not by the dead. In this, +respect, then, it is very obvious that their mourning may not be quite +useless to the living.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Another numerous class among the inhabitants of this country is the +slaves; for by slaves the Dutch, Portuguese, and Indians, however +different in their rank or situation, are constantly attended: They are +purchased from Sumatra, Malacca, and almost all the eastern islands. +The natives of Java, very few of whom, as I have before observed, live +in the neighbourhood of Batavia, have an exemption from slavery under +the sanction of very severe penal laws, which I believe are seldom +violated. The price of these slaves is from ten to twenty pounds +sterling; but girls, if they have beauty, sometimes fetch a hundred. +They are a very lazy set of people; but as they will do but little work, +they are content with a little victuals, subsisting altogether upon +boiled rice, and a small quantity of the cheapest fish. As they are +natives of different countries, they differ from each other extremely, +both in person and disposition. The African negroes, called here +<i>Papua</i>, are the worst, and consequently may be purchased for the least +money: They are all thieves, and all incorrigible. Next to these are the +Bougis and Macassars, both from the island of Celebes: These are lazy in +the highest degree, and though not so much addicted to theft as the +negroes, have a cruel and vindictive spirit, which renders them +extremely dangerous, especially as, to gratify their resentment, they +will make no scruple of sacrificing life. The best slaves, and +consequently the dearest, are procured from the island of Bali: The most +beautiful women from Nias, a small island on the coast of Sumatra; but +they are of a tender and delicate constitution, and soon fall a +sacrifice to the unwholesome air of Batavia.[159] Besides these, there +are Malays, and slaves of several other denominations, whose particular +characteristics I do not remember. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 159: Other causes operate to the early extinction of these +unfortunate females,--the lusts of their masters, and the cruel +jealousy, ingenious and discriminating in torture, of their mistresses. +Stavorinus well explains what is here meant. Speaking of the ladies of +Batavia, he writes to this effect. In common with most women in India, +they have an extreme jealousy of their husbands and female slaves. If +they observe the least familiarity between them, they set no bounds to +their revenge against the poor creatures, who, in general, have no +alternative but that of gratifying their masters, or experiencing very +harsh usage from them. On such discovery, their mistresses punish them +in different ways, whipping them with ropes; or beating them with canes, +till they fall down exhausted. One of the modes of tormenting them, is +to pinch them with their toes in a certain tender part, against which +their vengeance is chiefly directed; for this purpose, these wretched +girls are made to sit before them in a peculiar position, and so +exquisite is their suffering, that they often faint away. Indeed, the +refinements in cruelty practised on them almost exceed belief.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>These slaves are wholly in the power of their masters, with respect to +any punishment that does not take away life; but if a slave dies in +consequence of punishment, though his death should not appear to have +been intended, the master is called to a severe account, and he is +generally condemned to suffer capitally. For this reason the master +seldom inflicts punishment upon the slave himself, but applies to an +officer called a Marineu, one of whom is stationed in every district. +The duty of the Marineu is to quell riots, and take offenders into +custody; but more particularly to apprehend runaway slaves, and punish +them for such crimes as the master, supported by proper evidence, lays +to their charge: The punishment, however, is not inflicted by the +Marineu in person, but by slaves who are bred up to the business. Men +are punished publicly, before the door of their master's house; but +women within it. The punishment is, by stripes, the number being +proportioned to the offence; and they are given with rods made of +rattans, which are split into slender twigs for the purpose, and fetch +blood at every stroke. A common punishment costs the master a +rix-dollar, and a severe one a ducatoon, about six shillings and +eight-pence. The master is also obliged to allow the slave three +dubbelcheys, equal to about seven-pence half-penny a-week, as an +encouragement, and to prevent his being under temptations to steal, too +strong to be resisted. + +<p>Concerning the government of this place I can say but little. We +observed, however, a remarkable subordination among the people. Every +man who is able to keep house has a certain specific rank, acquired by +the length of his services to the Company: The different ranks which are +thus acquired are distinguished by the ornaments of the coaches and the +dresses of the coachmen: Some are obliged to ride in plain coaches, some +are allowed to paint them in different manners and degrees, and some to +gild them. The coachman also appears in clothes that are quite plain, or +more or less adorned with lace.[160] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 160: The distinctions of rank, and all the punctilios of the +respective ceremonies and homage, are attended to at Batavia with the +most religious exactness. Stavorinus specifies many instances, which, to +some readers, it might be amusing enough to transcribe. But in fact, and +to be honest, the writer has neither time, inclination, nor patience to +interfere with such mummeries, or investigate the claims to precedency +and peculiarly modified respect set up by Dutch merchants, and their +still more consequential spouses. He has not the smallest pretensions to +the office of master of the ceremonies for any society whatever.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The officer who presides here has the title of Governor General of the +Indies, and the Dutch governors of all the other settlements are +subordinate to him, and obliged to repair to Batavia that he may pass +their accounts. If they appear to have been criminal, or even negligent, +he punishes them by delay, and detains them during pleasure, sometimes +one year, sometimes two years, and sometimes three; for they cannot quit +the place till he gives them a dismission. Next to the governor are the +members of the council, called here <i>Edele Heeren</i>, and by the +corruption of the English, <i>Idoleers</i>. These Idoleers take upon them so +much state, that whoever meets them in a carriage is expected to rise up +and bow, then to drive on one side of the road, and there stop till they +are past: The same homage is required also to their wives, and even +their children; and it is commonly paid them by the inhabitants. But +some of our captains have thought so slavish a mark of respect beneath +the dignity which they derive from the service of his Britannic majesty, +and have refused to pay it; yet, if they were in a hired carriage, +nothing could deter the coachman from honouring the Dutch grandee at +their expence, but the most peremptory menace of immediate death.[161] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 161: The reader will remember what Captain Carteret says on +this subject, in the account given of his voyage.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Justice is administered here by a body of lawyers, who have ranks of +distinction among themselves. Concerning their proceedings in questions +of property, I know nothing; but their decisions in criminal cases seem +to be severe with respect to the natives, and lenient with respect to +their own people, in a criminal degree. A Christian always is indulged +with an opportunity of escaping before he is brought to a trial, +whatever may have been his offence; and if he is brought to a trial and +convicted, he is seldom punished with death; while the poor Indians, on +the contrary, are hanged, and broken upon the wheel, and even impaled +alive without mercy.[162] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 162: Impalement, as practised at Batavia, is one of the most +shocking punishments ever invented. An iron spike, about six feet long, +is forcibly passed between the back-bone and the skin from the lower +part of the body, where a cross cut is made for its insertion, till it +come out betwixt the shoulders and neck, the executioner guiding the +point of it so that none of the vitals or large blood vessels may be +wounded. The under end of the spike is afterwards made fast to a wooden +post, which is then stuck into the ground, so that the miserable wretch +is raised aloft, where he is supported partly by the iron spike in his +skin, and partly by a little bench, projecting about ten feet from the +ground. He may remain alive in this most cruel situation for several +days, during which period he is tortured besides with hunger and thirst, +for no victuals, of any kind, are allowed him; and numerous insects also +continually torment him in the fervent heat of the sun. His misery is +the greater and longer, as the weather is clear and dry. Should a shower +of rain fall, he is soon relieved from torment, as it is noticed that +any water getting into the wounds speedily induces gangrene and death. +Stavorinus saw an execution of this sort, and relates some very +affecting particulars. The fortitude of the wretched sufferer was +astonishing. He uttered no complaint, unless when the spike was fastened +to the post, when the agitation occasioned by hammering, &c. appeared to +give him intolerable pain, so that he roared out. He did so again when +the post was lifted up and put into the ground. In this dreadful +situation he continued till death ended his torment, which happened next +day. This was owing to a light shower of rain, of about an hour's +continuance, half an hour after which he breathed his last. He +continually complained of thirst, which no one was allowed to relieve by +a single drop of water.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>The Malays and Chinese have judicial officers of their own, under the +denominations of captains and lieutenants, who determine in civil cases, +subject to an appeal to the Dutch court. + +<p>The taxes paid by these people to the Company are very considerable; and +that which is exacted of them for liberty to wear their hair, is by no +means the least. They are paid monthly, and, to save the trouble and +charge of collecting them, a flag is hoisted upon the top of a house in +the middle of the town when a payment is due, and the Chinese have +experienced that it is their interest to repair thither with their money +without delay. + +<p>The money current here consists of ducats, worth a hundred and +thirty-two stivers; ducatoons, eighty stivers; imperial rix-dollars, +sixty; rupees of Batavia, thirty; schellings, six; double cheys, two +stivers and a half; and doits, one fourth of a stiver. Spanish dollars, +when we were here, were at five shillings and five-pence; and we were +told, that they were never lower than five shillings and four-pence, +even at the Company's warehouse. For English guineas we could never get +more than nineteen shillings upon an average; for though the Chinese +would give twenty shillings for some of the brightest, they would give +no more than seventeen shillings for those that were much worn. + +<p>It may perhaps be of some advantage to strangers to be told that there +are two kinds of coin here, of the same denomination, milled and +unmilled, and that the milled is of most value. A milled ducatoon is +worth eighty stivers; but an unmilled ducatoon is worth no more than +seventy-two. All accounts are kept in rix-dollars and stivers, which, +here at least, are mere nominal coins, like our pound sterling. The +rix-dollar is equal to forty-eight stivers, about four shillings and +six-pence English currency.[163] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 163: The reader need scarcely be informed, that the statements +given in the text as to the respective value of the coin, are fitted to +the circumstances of the period at which the account of the voyage was +published. It was thought unnecessary to correct them to the present +times in this place.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>SECTION XL. + +<p><i>The Passage from Batavia to the Cape of Good Hope. Some Account of +Prince's Island and its Inhabitants. Our Arrival at the Cape of Good +Hope. Some Remarks on the Run from Java Head to that Place, and to Saint +Helena. The Return of the Ship to England</i>.[164] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 164: The original contains some remarks on the language of +Prince's Island, and a comparative view of it with the Malay and +Javanese. These have been omitted, because another opportunity will +present of treating the subject more fully than could be done here, +without anticipating information which belongs to another place. Much +additional light has been thrown on this interesting topic since the +date of this navigation.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On Thursday the 27th of December, at six o'clock in the morning, we +weighed again and stood out to sea. After much delay by contrary winds, +we weathered Pulo Pare on the 29th, and stood in for the main: Soon +after, we fetched a small island under the main, in the midway between +Batavia and Bantam, called Maneater's Island. The next day, we weathered +first Wapping Island, and then Pulo Babi. On the 31st, we stood over to +the Sumatra shore; and on the morning of new-year's-day, 1771, we stood +over for the Java shore. + +<p>We continued our course as the wind permitted us till three o'clock in +the afternoon of the 5th, when we anchored under the south-east side of +Prince's Island in eighteen fathom, in order to recruit our wood and +water, and procure refreshments for the sick, many of whom were now +become much worse than they were when we left Batavia. As soon as the +ship was secured, I went ashore, accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr +Solander, and we were met upon the beach by some Indians, who carried us +immediately to a man, who, they said, was their king. After we had +exchanged a few compliments with his majesty, we proceeded to business; +but in settling the price of turtle we could not agree: This however did +not discourage us, as we made no doubt but that we should buy them at +our own price in the morning. As soon as we parted, the Indians +dispersed, and we proceeded along the shore in search of a +watering-place. In this we were more successful; we found water very +conveniently situated, and, if a little care was taken in filling it, we +had reason to believe that it would prove good. Just as we were going +off, some Indians, who remained with a canoe upon the beach, sold us +three turtle, but exacted a promise of us that we should not tell the +king. + +<p>The next morning, while a party was employed in filling water, we +renewed our traffic for turtle: At first, the Indians dropped their +demands slowly, but about noon they agreed to take the price that we +offered, so that before night we had turtle in plenty: The three that we +had purchased the evening before, were in the mean time served to the +ship's company, who, till the day before, had not once been served with +salt provisions from the time of our arrival at Savu, which was now near +four months. In the evening, Mr Banks went to pay his respects to the +king, at his palace, in the middle of a rice field, and though his +majesty was busily employed in dressing his own supper, he received the +stranger very graciously. + +<p>The next day, the natives came down to the trading place, with fowls, +fish, monkies, small deer, and some vegetables, but no turtle; for they +said that we had bought them all the day before. The next day, however, +more turtle appeared at market, and some were brought down every day +afterwards, during our stay, though the whole, together, was not equal +to the quantity that we bought the day after our arrival. + +<p>On the 11th, Mr Banks having learnt from the servant whom he had hired +at Batavia, that the Indians of this island had a town upon the shore, +at some distance to the westward, determined to see it. With this view +he set out in the morning, accompanied by the second lieutenant; and as +he had some reason to think that his visit would not be agreeable to the +inhabitants, he told the people whom he met, as he was advancing along +the shore, that he was in search of plants, which indeed was also true. +In about two hours they arrived at a place where there were four or five +houses, and meeting with an old man, they ventured to make some +enquiries concerning the town. He said that it was far distant; but they +were not to be discouraged in their enterprize, and he, seeing them +proceed in their journey, joined company and went on with them. He +attempted several times to lead them out of the way, but without +success; and at length they came within sight of the houses. The old man +then entered cordially into their party, and conducted them into the +town. The name of it is Samadang; it consists of about four hundred +houses, and is divided by a river of brackish water into two parts, one +of which is called the old town, and the other the new. As soon as they +entered the old town, they met several Indians whom they had seen at the +trading-place, and one of them undertook to carry them over to the new +town, at the rate of two-pence a-head. When the bargain was made, two +very small canoes were produced, in which they embarked; the canoes +being placed along-side of each other, and held together, a precaution +which was absolutely necessary to prevent their oversetting, the +navigation was at length safely performed, though not without some +difficulty; and when they landed in the new town, the people received +them with great friendship, and showed them the houses of their kings +and principal people, which are in this district: Few of them, however, +were open, for at this time the people had taken up their residence in +the rice-grounds, to defend the crop against the birds and monkies, by +which it would otherwise have been destroyed. When their curiosity was +satisfied, they hired a large sailing boat for two rupees, four +shillings, which brought them back to the ship time enough to dine upon +one of the small deer, weighing only forty pounds, which had been bought +the day before, and proved to be very good and savoury meat. + +<p>We went on shore in the evening, to see how the people who were employed +in wooding and watering went on, and were informed that an axe had been +stolen. As the passing over this fault might encourage the commission of +others of the same kind, application was immediately made to the king, +who, after some altercation, promised that the axe should be restored in +the morning; and kept his word, for it was brought to us by a man who +pretended that the thief, being afraid of a discovery, had privately +brought it and left it at his house in the night. + +<p>We continued to purchase between two and three hundred weight of turtle +in a day, besides fowls and other necessaries; and in the evening of the +13th, having nearly completed our wood and water, Mr Banks went ashore +to take leave of his majesty, to whom he had made several trifling +presents, and at parting gave him two quires of paper, which he +graciously received. They had much conversation, in the course of which +his majesty enquired, why the English did not touch there as they had +been used to do. Mr Banks replied, that he supposed it was because they +found a deficiency of turtle, of which there not being enough to supply +one ship, many could not be expected. To supply this defect, he advised +his majesty to breed cattle, buffaloes, and sheep, a measure which he +did not seem much inclined to adopt. + +<p>On the 14th, we made ready to sail, having on board a good stock of +refreshments, which we purchased of the natives, consisting of turtle, +fowl, fish, two species of deer, one as big as a sheep, the other not +larger than a rabbit; with cocoa-nuts, plantains, limes, and other +vegetables. The deer, however, served only for present use, for we could +seldom keep one of them alive more than four-and-twenty hours after it +was on board. On our part, the trade was carried on chiefly with Spanish +dollars, the natives seeming to set little value upon any thing else; so +that our people, who had a general permission to trade, parted with old +shirts and other articles, which they were obliged to substitute for +money, to great disadvantage. In the morning of the 15th, we weighed, +with a light breeze at N.E. and stood out to sea. Java Head, from which +I took my departure, lies in latitude 6° 49' S., longitude 258° 12' W. + +<p>Prince's Island, where we lay about ten days, is, in the Malay language, +called <i>Pulo Selan</i>, and in the language of the inhabitants, <i>Pulo +Paneitan</i>. It is a small island, situated in the western mouth of the +Streight of Sunda. It is woody, and a very small part of it only has +been cleared: There is no remarkable hill upon it, yet the English call +the small eminence which is just over the landing-place the Pike. It was +formerly much frequented by the India ships of many nations, but +especially those of England, which of late have forsaken it, as it is +said, because the water is bad; and touch either at North Island, a +small island that lies on the coast of Sumatra, without the east +entrance of the streight, or at Mew Bay, which lies only a few leagues +from Prince's Island, at neither of which places any considerable +quantity of other refreshments can be procured. Prince's Island is, +upon the whole, certainly more eligible than either of them; and though +the water is brackish if it is filled at the lower part of the brook, +yet higher up it will be found excellent. + +<p>The first and second, and perhaps the third ship that comes in the +season, may be tolerably supplied with turtle; but those that come +afterwards must be content with small ones. Those that we bought were of +the green kind, and at an average cost us about a half-penny or three +farthings a pound. We were much disappointed to find them neither fat +nor well flavoured; and we imputed it to their having been long kept in +crawls or pens of brackish water, without food. The fowls are large, and +we bought a dozen of them for a Spanish dollar, which is about +five-pence a-piece: The small deer cost us two-pence a-piece, and the +larger, of which two only were brought down, a rupee. Many kinds of fish +are to be had here, which the natives sell by hand, and we found them +tolerably cheap. Cocoa-nuts we bought at the rate of a hundred for a +dollar, if they were picked; and if they were taken promiscuously, one +hundred and thirty. Plantains we found in great plenty: We procured also +some pine-apples, water melons, jaccas, and pumpkins; besides rice, the +greater part of which was of the mountain kind, that grows on dry land; +yams, and several other vegetables, at a very reasonable rate. + +<p>The inhabitants are Javanese, whose Raja is subject to the Sultan of +Bantam. Their customs are very similar to those of the Indians about +Batavia; but they seem to be more jealous of their women, for we never +saw any of them during all the time we were there, except one by chance +in the woods, as she was running away to hide herself. They profess the +Mahometan religion, but I believe there is not a mosque in the whole +island: We were among them during the fast, which the Turks call +<i>Ramadan</i>, which they seemed to keep with great rigour, for not one of +them would touch a morsel of victuals, or even chew their betel, till +sun-set. + +<p>Their food is nearly the same as that of the Batavian Indians, except +the addition of the nuts of the palm, called <i>Cycas circinalis</i>, with +which, upon the coast of New Holland, some of our people were made sick, +and some of our hogs poisoned. + +<p>Upon observing these nuts to be part of their food, we enquired by what +means they deprived them of their deleterious quality; and they told +us, that, they first cut them into thin slices, and dried them in the +sun; then steeped them in fresh water for three months, and afterwards, +pressing out the water, dried them in the sun a second time; but we +learnt that, after all, they are eaten only in times of scarcity, when +they mix them with their rice to make it go farther. + +<p>The houses of their town are built upon piles, or pillars, four or five +feet above the ground: Upon these is laid a floor of bamboo canes, which +are placed at some distance from each other, so as to leave a free +passage for the air from below; the walls also are of bamboo, which are +interwoven, hurdlewise, with small sticks, that are fastened +perpendicularly to the beams which form the frame of the building: It +has a sloping roof, which is so well thatched with palm leaves, that +neither the sun nor the rain can find entrance. The ground over which +this building is erected, is an oblong square. In the middle of one side +is the door, and in the middle between that and the end of the house, +towards the left hand, is a window: A partition runs out from each end +towards the middle, which, if continued, would divide the whole floor +into two equal parts, longitudinally; but they do not meet in the +middle, so that an opening is left over-against the door: Each end of +the house therefore, to the right and left of the door, is divided into +two rooms, like stalls in a stable, all open towards the passage from +the door to the wall on the opposite side: In that next the door to the +left hand, the children sleep; that opposite to it, on the right hand, +is allotted to strangers; the master and his wife sleep in the inner +room on the left hand, and that opposite to it is the kitchen. There is +no difference between the houses of the poor and the rich, but in the +size; except that the royal palace, and the house of a man, whose name +was <i>Gundang</i>, the next in riches and influence to the king, were walled +with boards, instead of being wattled with sticks and bamboo. + +<p>As the people are obliged to abandon the town, and live in the +rice-fields at certain seasons, to secure their crops from the birds and +the monkies, they have occasional houses there for their accommodation. +They are exactly the same as the houses in the town, except that they +are smaller, and are elevated eight or ten feet above the ground instead +of four. + +<p>The disposition of the people, as far as we could discover it, is good. +They dealt with us very honestly, except, like all other Indians, and +the itinerant retailers of fish in London, they asked sometimes twice, +and sometimes thrice as much for their commodities as they would take. +As what they brought to market belonged, in different proportions, to a +considerable number of the natives, and it would have been difficult to +purchase it in separate lots, they found out a very easy expedient, with +which every one was satisfied: They put all that was bought of one kind, +as plantains, or cocoa-nuts, together; and when we had agreed for the +heap, they divided the money that was paid for it among those of whose +separate property it consisted, in a proportion corresponding with their +contributions. Sometimes, indeed, they changed our money, giving us 240 +doits, amounting to five shillings, for a Spanish dollar, and +ninety-six, amounting to two shillings, for a Bengal rupee. + +<p>They all speak the Malay language, though they have a language of their +own, different both from the Malay and the Javanese. Their own language +they call <i>Catta Gunung</i>, the language of the mountains; and they say +that it is spoken upon the mountains of Java, whence their tribe +originally migrated, first to Mew Bay, and then to their present +station, being driven from their first settlement by tygers, which they +found too numerous to subdue. + +<p>We now made the best of our way for the Cape of Good Hope, but the seeds +of disease which we had received at Batavia began to appear with the +most threatening symptoms in dysenteries and slow fevers. Lest the water +which we had taken in at Prince's Island should have any share in our +sickness, we purified it with lime, and we washed all parts of the ship +between decks with vinegar, as a remedy against infection. Mr Banks was +among the sick, and for some time there was no hope of his life. We were +very soon in a most deplorable situation; the ship was nothing better +than an hospital, in which those that were able to go about were too few +to attend the sick, who were confined to their hammocks; and we had +almost every night a dead body to commit to the sea. In the course of +about six weeks, we buried Mr Sporing, a gentleman who was in Mr Banks's +retinue, Mr Parkinson, his natural history painter, Mr Green, the +astronomer, the boatswain, the carpenter and his mate, Mr Monkhouse, the +midshipman, who had fothered the ship after she had been stranded on the +coast of New Holland, our old jolly sail-maker and his assistant, the +ship's cook, the corporal of the marines, two of the carpenter's crew, a +midshipman, and nine seamen; in all three-and-twenty persons, besides +the seven that we buried at Batavia.[165] On Friday the 15th of March, +about ten o'clock in the morning, we anchored off the Cape of Good Hope, +in seven fathom, with an oozy bottom. The west point of the bay, called +the Lion's Tail, bore W.N.W., and the castle S.W., distant about a mile +and a half. I immediately waited upon the governor, who told me that I +should have every thing the country afforded. My first care was to +provide a proper place ashore for the sick, which were not a few; and a +house was soon found, where it was agreed they should be lodged and +boarded at the rate of two shillings a-head per day. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 165: In the Biog. Brit. where a summary of Cook's Voyages is +given, an observation is made on this melancholy part of the narrative, +which the reader may not be displeased to see copied here. "It is +probable that these calamitous events, which could not fail of making a +powerful impression on the mind of Lieutenant Cook, might give occasion +to his turning his thoughts more zealously to those methods of +preserving the health of seamen, which he afterwards pursued with such +remarkable success." These methods will be amply detailed +hereafter.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>Our run from Java Head to this place afforded very few subjects of +remark that can be of use to future navigators; such as occurred, +however, I shall set down. We had left Java Head eleven days before we +got the general south-east trade-wind, during which time we did not +advance above 5° to the southward, and 3° to the west, having variable +light airs, interrupted by calms, with sultry weather, and an +unwholesome air, occasioned probably by the load of vapours which the +eastern trade-wind and westerly monsoons bring into these latitudes, +both which blow in these seas at the time of the year when we happened +to be there. The easterly wind prevails as far as 10° or 12° S., and the +westerly as far as 6° or 8°; in the intermediate space the winds are +variable, and the air, I believe, always unwholesome; it certainly +aggravated the diseases which we brought with us from Batavia, and +particularly the flux, which was not in the least degree checked by any +medicine, so that whoever was seized with it considered himself as a +dead man; but we had no sooner got into the trade-wind, than we began to +feel its salutary effects: We buried indeed several of our people +afterwards, but they were such as had been taken on board in a state so +low and feeble that there was scarcely a possibility of their recovery. +At first we suspected that this dreadful disorder might have been +brought upon us by the water that we took on board at Prince's Island, +or even by the turtle that we bought there; but there is not the least +reason to believe that this suspicion was well-grounded, for all the +ships that came from Batavia at the same season, suffered in the same +degree, and some of them even more severely, though none of them touched +at Prince's Island in their way. + +<p>A few days after we left Java, we saw boobies about the ship for several +nights successively, and as these birds are known to roost every night +on shore, we thought them an indication that some island was not far +distant; perhaps it might be the island of Selam, which, in different +charts, is very differently laid down both in name and situation. + +<p>The variation of the compass off the west coast of Java, is about 3° W., +and so it continued without any sensible variation, in the common track +of ships, to the longitude of 288° W., latitude 22° S., after which it +increased apace, so that in longitude 295°, latitude 23°, the variation +was 10° 20' W.: In seven degrees more of longitude, and one of latitude, +it increased two degrees; in the same space farther to the west, it +increased five degrees: In latitude 28°, longitude 314°, it was 24°, +20', in latitude 29°, longitude 317°, it was 26° 10', and was then +stationary for the space of about ten degrees farther to the west; but +in latitude 34°, longitude 333°, we observed it twice to be 28° 1/4 W., +and this was its greatest variation, for in latitude 35° 1/2 longitude +337°, it was 24°, and continued gradually to decrease; so that off Cape +Anguillas it was 22° 30', and in Table Bay 20° 30' W. + +<p>As to currents, it did not appear that they were at all considerable, +till we came within a little distance of the meridian of Madagascar; for +after we had made 52° of longitude from Java Head, we found, by +observation, that our error in longitude was only two degrees, and it +was the same when we had made only nineteen. This error might be owing +partly to a current setting to the westward, partly to our not making +proper allowances for the setting of the sea before which we run, and +perhaps to an error in the assumed longitude of Java Head. If that +longitude is erroneous, the error must be imputed to the imperfection of +the charts of which I made use in reducing the longitude from Batavia to +that place, for there can be no doubt but that the longitude of Batavia +is well determined. After we had passed the longitude of 307°, the +effects of the westerly currents began to be considerable; for, in three +days, our error in longitude was 1° 5': The velocity of the current kept +increasing as we proceeded to the westward, in so much, that for five +days successively after we made the land, we were driven to the S.W. or +S.W. by W., not less than twenty leagues a-day; and this continued till +we were within sixty or seventy leagues of the Cape, where the current +set sometimes one way, and sometimes the other, though inclining rather +to the westward. + +<p>After the boobies had left us, we saw no more birds till we got nearly +abreast of Madagascar, where, in latitude 27° 3/4 S., we saw an +albatross, and after that time we saw them every day in great numbers, +with birds of several other sorts, particularly one about as big as a +duck, of a very dark brown colour, with a yellowish bill. These birds +became more numerous as we approached the shore, and as soon as we got +into soundings, we saw gannets, which we continued to see as long as we +were upon the bank which stretches off Anguillas to the distance of +forty leagues, and extends along the shore to the eastward, from Cape +False, according to some charts, one hundred and sixty leagues. The real +extent of this bank is not exactly known; it is, however, useful as a +direction to shipping when to haul in, in order to make the land. + +<p>While we lay here, the Houghton Indiaman sailed for England, who, +during, her stay in India, lost by sickness between thirty and forty +men; and when she left the Cape, had many in a helpless condition with +the scurvy. Other ships suffered in the same proportion, who had been +little more than twelve months absent from England; our sufferings, +therefore, were comparatively light, considering that we had been absent +near three times as long. + +<p>Having lain here to recover the sick, procure stores, and perform +several necessary operations upon the ship and rigging, till the 13th of +April, I then got all the sick on board, several of whom were still in a +dangerous state, and having taken leave of the governor, I unmoored the +nest morning, and got ready to sail.[166] + +<blockquote>[Footnote 166: Some remarks concerning the Cape of Good Hope are now +given in the original. They are omitted here, as being only +supplementary to other accounts, and because we shall elsewhere have an +opportunity of drawing the reader's attention very fully to the subject. +The same thing may be said respecting some notices of St Helena, +contained in this section. Whatever is of value in either of these +accounts, will be had recourse to on another occasion.--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the morning of the 14th we weighed and stood out of the bay; and at +five in the evening anchored under Penquin, or Robin Island: We lay here +all night, and as I could not sail in the morning for want of wind, I +sent a boat to the island for a few trifling articles which we had +forgot to take in at the Cape. But as soon as the boat came near the +shore, the Dutch hailed her, and warned the people not to land, at their +peril, bringing down at the same time six men armed with muskets, who +paraded upon the beach. The officer who commanded the boat not thinking +it worth while to risk the lives of the people on board for the sake of +a few cabbages, which were all we wanted, returned to the ship. At first +we were at a loss to account for our repulse, but we afterwards +recollected, that to this island the Dutch at the Cape banish such +criminals as are not thought worthy of death, for a certain number of +years, proportioned to the offence, and employ them as slaves in digging +lime-stone, which, though scarce upon the continent, is in plenty here; +and that a Danish ship, which by sickness had lost great part of her +crew, and had been refused assistance at the Cape, came down to this +island, and sending her boat ashore, secured the guard, and took on +board as many of the criminals as she thought proper to navigate her +home: We concluded therefore that the Dutch, to prevent the rescue of +their criminals in time to come, had given order to their people here to +suffer no boat of any foreign nation to come ashore. + +<p>On the 25th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we weighed, with a light +breeze at S.E., and put to sea. About an hour afterwards, we lost our +master, Mr Robert Mollineux, a young man of good parts, but unhappily +given up to intemperance, which brought on disorders that put an end to +his life. + +<p>We proceeded in our voyage homeward without any remarkable incident; and +in the morning of the 29th we crossed our first meridian, having +circumnavigated the globe in the direction from east to west, and +consequently lost a day, for which we made an allowance at Batavia. + +<p>At day-break on the first of May, we saw the island of Saint Helena; and +at noon we anchored in the road before James's fort. + +<p>We staid here till the 4th, to refresh, and Mr Banks improved the time +in making the complete circuit of the island, and visiting the most +remarkable places upon it. At one o'clock in the afternoon of the 4th of +May, we weighed and stood out of the road, in company with the Portland +man-of-war, and twelve sail of Indiamen. + +<p>We continued to sail in company with the fleet, till the 10th in the +morning, when, perceiving that we sailed much heavier than any other +ship, and thinking it for that reason probable that the Portland would +get home before us, I made the signal to speak with her, upon which +Captain Elliot himself came on board, and I delivered to him a letter +to the Admiralty, with a box, containing the common logbooks of the +ship, and the journals of some of the officers. We continued in company, +however, till the 23d in the morning, and then there was not one of the +ships in sight. About one o'clock in the afternoon, died our first +lieutenant, Mr Hicks, and in the evening we committed his body to the +sea, with the usual ceremonies. The disease of which he died was a +consumption, and as he was not free from it when we sailed from England, +it may truly be said that he was dying during the whole voyage, though +his decline was very gradual till we came to Batavia: The next day I +gave Mr Charles Clerk an order to act as lieutenant in his room, a young +man who was extremely well qualified for that station. + +<p>Our rigging and sails were now become so bad, that something was giving +way every day. We continued our course, however, in safety till the 10th +of June, when land, which proved to be the Lizard, was discovered by +Nicholas Young, the same boy that first saw New Zealand; on the 11th we +run up the Channel, at six in the morning of the 12th we passed Beachy +Head, at noon we were abreast of Dover, and about three came to an +anchor in the Downs, and went ashore at Deal. + +<h2><a name="appendix" id="appendix">APPENDIX.</a></h2> + +<p><b>An Abstract of the VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, performed by LEWIS DE +BOUGAINVILLE, Colonel of Foot, and Commander of the Expedition, in the +Frigate <i>La Boudeuse</i>, and the Store-ship <i>L'Etoile</i>, in the Years +1766-7-8 and 9. (Drawn up expressly for this Work.)</b> + +<p>The restitution of the Falkland Islands to the Spaniards was the first +object of this voyage. So early as February 1764, France had commenced a +settlement on them, and in all probability would have ensured its +prosperity; but the property was claimed by Spain, in virtue of the old +and at best imaginary rights conferred on that power by the Pope to the +lands of the western hemisphere, of which they were held to be a part. +It is sometimes more politic, and perhaps almost always more convenient, +to avoid war, by the display of generosity in concession, than to run +the hazard of expensive contension, and an unprofitable issue, by the +obstinate maintenance of dubious advantages. Such seems to have been the +opinion of the French king, in this instance. He acknowledged the claim +of the Spaniards, and accordingly gave orders for the delivering up of +the settlement. In this determination, it is probable, he was +strengthened by the apprehension of the difficulties of supporting and +defending an establishment, at so great a distance from his dominions. +M. Bougainville, the person who had proposed the settlement, and in a +considerable degree accomplished it, by carrying out several French +families, and cultivating and stocking some parts of the islands, was +appointed to execute a formal surrender; and he was further instructed, +after doing so, to traverse the South Sea between the tropics, for the +purpose of making discoveries, and to return home by the East Indies. +The fulfilment of these directions constitutes his voyage round the +world, with a short, but it is believed satisfactory abstract of which, +it is now intended to supply the reader. The account of the voyage was +drawn up and published by Bougainville himself, and has always been +highly esteemed by his countrymen, who are commonly patriotic enough in +their commendations. In this instance, however, if one may judge from +the concurrence in opinion of others, their praise has not been +injudicious; though it must be admitted on the other hand, that the +partiality is ridiculous, which would place it above the narratives of +Anson's and Cook's Voyages. Bougainville seems to have been a man of +talents, of refined taste, and considerable literary acquirements; and +his work, though, as he says in his introduction, written for seamen +chiefly, yet presents some very interesting features to the general +reader, and not a little information to scientific observers. He has +thought proper to apologize for his deficiency in composition; but it is +questionable if this be not mere affectation, common with writers who +are far from thinking too meanly of themselves, for the reasons they +chuse to state in the way of deprecating critical severity, and +abundantly disposed to attach magnitude of consequence to the very +particulars which they have employed to indicate their own inferiority. +A translation of his work by Mr John Reinhold Forster, was published at +London 1772, and contains additional notes. This has principally been +consulted in drawing up the present abstract, which is intended as a +companion to the accounts of voyages it is the object of our work to +give entire. This is the proper place for its insertion, if it be right +to insert it at all, and opportunities will present themselves as we +proceed, for giving similar abstracts of other voyages. + +<p>Bougainville had under his command the frigate La Boudeuse, carrying 26 +twelve-pounders, and the store-ship L'Etoile, appointed to supply him +with provisions and stores, and to accompany him during the whole of his +voyage. His establishment consisted of eleven commissioned officers, +three volunteers, and two hundred sailors, &c. The prince of +Nassau-Sieghen obtained leave from the king to go out on this +expedition, and availed himself of it. He sailed from Nantes on the 15th +November, 1766, purposing to make the river La Plata, where two Spanish +frigates, appointed to receive possession of the islands, were to wait +for his arrival. A squall of wind occasioned him much confusion, and +forced him to put into Brest, whence, after having undergone several +repairs and alterations, which the deficient state of his vessel +rendered necessary, he departed on the 5th December, but not without +being obliged to cut his cable, as the east wind and the ebb tide +prevented his tacking about to keep clear of the shore. A pretty +constant and fresh wind accompanied him, till he got sight of the +Salvages on the 17th, in the afternoon. These are uninhabited islands or +rocks, lying to the north of the Canary islands, and belong to the +Portuguese, who, although making little or no use of them, are jealously +careful to prevent others from visiting or profiting by them. The sight +of these rocks convinced M. Bougainville of a considerable error in his +reckoning, during even this short trip. Having rectified it, and made +observations for their position, he took a fresh departure on the 19th +December, at noon, when he got sight of the Isle of Ferro. On the 8th of +January, he crossed the Line between 27° and 28° of longitude, and on +the 31st of the same month, after an easy and uninteresting voyage, came +to an anchor in Monte Video bay, where the Spanish frigates had lain +expecting him four weeks. He made some observations on the currents +noticed during this voyage, which are well known to occasion much error +in the calculations of the navigator; but as these are not interesting +to the general reader, they are omitted here, and the more properly so, +because we have had frequent occasion to notice the subject in our +accounts of other voyages. + +<p>Bougainville left Monte Video on the 28th February, in company with the +Spanish ships, but having encountered a storm and a good deal of +contrary wind, he did not quit the river till the 3d March. The voyage +to the Falkland Islands was rough and troublesome, especially to the two +Spanish frigates, which suffered a good deal during the course, and were +for some time separated from Bougainville's ship. On the 23d and 24th of +March, however, they all arrived at the place of their destination, +where a formal surrender of the settlement was made according to the +instructions of the two governments. The islands were delivered up on +the 1st April, the Spaniards taking possession by planting their +colours, which were saluted both on shore and from aboard the vessels. +Several families resident there availed themselves of the French king's +permission to remain under the new government, and the others embarked +in the Spanish frigates to return home. M. Bougainville has related +several particulars respecting the history of these islands, which, +however, it is quite unnecessary to consider here, as we have either +already stated them, or may hereafter have occasion to do so; they are, +besides, little connected with our present object, that of tracing his +course round the world. + +<p>As the store-ship did not join him at the time expected, and as it was +impossible for him to traverse the Pacific Ocean, without the supplies +and assistance she was appointed to afford, Bougainville resolved to +quit these islands, and go to Rio Janeiro, the place specified as the +rendezvous to both vessels. He sailed therefore on the 2d June, got in +sight of the high head-lands of the Brazils on the 20th, and in the +evening of the following day came to an anchor in the roads of Rio +Janeiro, where the Etoile had arrived but a few days before. Being +still, however, imperfectly furnished with provisions, he returned to +Monte Video, as a fitter place for procuring them. The Etoile being a +bad sailer, and having made a good deal of water, he was retarded in +this voyage, which in consequence took him up from the 14th to the 31st +of July. A little before his departure, he rendered some important +services to a Spanish man-of-war, which had been obliged to put into Rio +Janeiro to refit for her voyage to Europe, and was most ungenerously +denied what was needful by the Portuguese government, for eight months. +The viceroy seems to have been of an unfeeling and absurdly +consequential disposition, of which some instances have been already +related in our account of another voyage. + +<p>Whilst lying in Montevideo bay, a register ship ran foul of the Etoile +during a hurricane, and did her so much damage, as to render it +necessary to heave her down to be repaired. This was done at the +Encenada de Baragan up the river, Monte Video itself not having proper +accommodation for the purpose. But the requisite repairs were after all +accomplished with much difficulty, and at a great expence of money, and +occupied the whole of the month of October. To add to these sources of +regret, this vessel had the misfortune to lose three of her crew, in +returning down the river to Monte Video, a passage, which, though short, +is described as very difficult, and requiring almost constant soundings +to avoid danger. This accident happened from the boat containing them +and other two men getting foul under the ship when it was wearing. +During this passage too, it was observed, that the Etoile still +continued to take in water, notwithstanding the overhauling she had +received. + +<p>Some days were now occupied in the necessary preparations for leaving +the Rio La Plata, such as stowing and caulking the Boudeuse, repairing +the Etoile's boat, cutting grass for the live cattle on board, &c. Part +of the delay, however, which these preparations occasioned, was +fortunate, as a schooner happened to come from Buenos Ayres laden with +flour, of which they contrived to stow sixty hundred weight on board +their ships, and which proved to be a valuable addition to their stock +of provisions. At this time, the crew was in perfect health, and +notwithstanding the loss already mentioned, and the desertion of twelve +men from the two ships, was made up to its original establishment, as +some sailors had been engaged at the Falkland Islands, besides an +engineer, a supercargo, and a surgeon. The provisions laid in were +supposed enough for a voyage of ten months. + +<p>They left Monte Video the 14th November, with a fine breeze from the +north, which was favourable for their course to Magellan's Straits. The +wind was contrary from the 16th to the 21st, and they had a very high +sea, so that they were obliged to keep what advantageous boards they +could in tacking under their courses and close-reefed top-sails. On the +22d there was a hard gale, accompanied with squalls and showers, which +continued during the night, over a frightful sea. The Etoile made +signals of distress, but it was not till the 24th that she came within +hail, or could specify the damage she had received. Her +fore-top-sail-yard had been carried away, and four of her chain plates; +and all the cattle she had taken in at Monte Video, except two, were +lost in the storm. This last misfortune, unluckily, was common to both +vessels, and in their present situation admitted no remedy. During the +remainder of this month, the wind was variable from S.W. to N.W. and the +currents ran rapidly to the southward, as far as 45° latitude, where +they were merely perceptible. No ground was reached by sounding till the +27th at night, when they were in latitude 47°, and about thirty-five +leagues from the coast of Patagonia. In this position, they had seventy +fathoms, and an oozy bottom with black and grey sand. From the 27th till +they saw land, they had pretty regular soundings, in 67, 60, 55, 50, 47, +and 40 fathoms, when they got sight of Cape Virgin, or, as Anson calls +it, Cape Virgin Mary, the same name by which it was known to Sir John +Narborough. Bougainville advises not to approach near the coast till +coming to latitude 49°, as there is a hidden rock in 48° 30', at six or +seven leagues off shore, which he says he discovered when sailing here +in 1765. He then ran within a quarter of a league of it, and the person +who first saw it, took it to be a <i>grampus</i>. + +<p>He now enters upon a discussion respecting the longitude of this cape, +of which he got sight on the 2d December, and which is certainly an +interesting point in geography, as it determines the length of the +straits. This however may be omitted, as the question is considered in +the account of Captain Cook's Second Voyage, and will of course come +before the reader in its proper place. Though differing with Anson as to +its precise position, Bougainville admits that his lordship's view of it +is most exactly true. + +<p>Contrary winds and stormy weather opposed the entrance into the straits +for several days, and after having entered, obliged him to lie-to +between the shores of Terra del Fuego and the continent. His foresail +was split on the 4th December, and as he had then only twenty fathom, +the fear of the breakers which extend S.S.E. off the cape, induced him +to scud under bare poles, which, however, facilitated his bending +another foresail to the yard. He afterwards discovered that these +soundings were not so alarming as he then imagined them to be, as they +were in fact those in the channel; and he remarks, for the benefit of +succeeding navigators, that a gravelly bottom shews the position to be +nearer the Terra del Fuego coast, than that of the continent, where a +fine sandy, and sometimes an oozy bottom will be found. On the evening +of this day, he brought-to again, under main and mizen-stay-sails, but +after several disadvantageous tacks, got somewhat further from the coast +towards night. At four o'clock the next afternoon, he again got sight of +Cape Virgin, when he made sail in order to double it, at about a league +and a half or two leagues distance. In his opinion, it was improper to +sail nearer, as a bank lies off it, over the tail of which he thought he +passed even at that distance; for between two soundings made by his own +vessel, one of twenty-four, and the other of seventeen fathom, the +Etoile, which sailed in his wake, found no more at one time than eight +fathom, but immediately afterwards deepened her water. On the night of +the 5th, he got Cape Virgin to bear N., but as there was a fresh breeze, +and the night was gloomy, threatening a storm, he kept off and on till +day-break, when having unreefed his top-sails, he run to W.N.W. He +continued plying to windward, under courses and top-sails, for the whole +of the 6th, during which he discovered Cape Possession on the continent +coast, and also got sight of Terra del Fuego. By noon on the 7th, +however, he found himself still at Cape Possession, as, besides his +never going more than three leagues from the northern shore, which, +obliged him to sound continually, he lost as much by the tides as he +ever gained by them. About this time the wind shifting favourably, he +continued his voyage, and got to the entrance of the first gut about +half after two o'clock; but now with all his sails set, and aided by a +fine breeze, he could not stem the tide, which ran six knots an hour +against him, and carried him astern. It was in vain to strive; and +fearing, as the wind was unsteady, that he might be becalmed in the gut, +and therefore exposed to danger on the ledges off the capes forming the +entrance, especially a long one on the Terra del Fuego side, he was at +last constrained to turn in search of anchorage in the bottom of +Possession Bay, for which he steered N. by E. This he found at seven in +the evening, about two leagues from the land, in twenty fathom, having a +mud and sand ground, with black and white gravel. He was more successful +in his exertions the following morning, when having stemmed a contrary +tide, the current set to windward, and carried him, tacking frequently +to avoid both coasts, through the first gut, in spite of the wind which +blew hard against him. It was noon before he accomplished this, after +which he made sail, as the wind had veered to S., and the tide still ran +to windward; both, however, failing about three o'clock, he anchored in +Boucalt Bay on the continent side, in eighteen fathom, having an oozy +bottom. Immediately afterwards he hoisted out one of his boats, as did +also the Etoile, and embarking in them to the number of ten officers, +each armed with his musket landed at the bottom of the bay to have an +interview with the Patagonians, who had kept up fires all night on the +coast, and in the morning had hoisted a white flag, supposed to be the +same which the Etoile, when here in June 1766, had left with them as a +sign of friendship and alliance. Their having kept it, is properly +enough considered by Bougainville, as an indication of very laudable +social qualities. The Spaniards, indeed, have given a favourable report +of the people that inhabit this part of the strait, mentioning several +circumstances in praise of their humanity and good faith. + +<p>As soon as the officers got ashore, six of the natives rode up to them +in full gallop, and having alighted when about fifty yards off, +immediately came up to them with outstretched arms, and congratulatory +shouts of <i>Shawa, shawa</i>, which the officers were careful to repeat, +with similar marks of satisfaction. Some symptoms of fear were visible +on two of these people, but they were speedily removed; and shortly +afterwards this party was joined by many more of their countrymen, who +manifested entire confidence and good nature. They did not seem +surprised at seeing the strangers; and as they imitated the report of +muskets, it was inferred that they were not ignorant of the use of these +arms, and that consequently, they had had previous intercourse with +Europeans, in proof of their willingness to please their visitors, it is +mentioned, that they immediately set about picking plants, and carrying +them to some of the officers who had commenced searching for them; and +it is noted, as an evidence of their having some notions of the use of +medicines, that one of them afflicted with a sore eye, applied by signs +to Chevalier du Bouchage, one of the gentlemen so engaged, to point out +a remedy for it. They asked in a similar manner for tobacco. Any thing +of a red colour pleased them highly; and always when any presents had +been made them, and at every mark of kindness, they testified their +satisfaction by loud shouts of <i>shawa</i>. Among other things given them +in exchange for skins, or in mere condescension, was some brandy, of +which each got a little drop. The effect of it was singular; immediately +on swallowing it, they beat with their hands on their throats, and +uttered a sort of tremulous, but inarticulate sound, which was +terminated by a quick motion of the lips. This is said to have been done +by all of them. They expressed a degree of uneasiness and concern, when +they understood the officers were preparing to leave them. This was +appeased, however, when it was intimated to them that they would be +visited again on the following day; and they accompanied the party to +the sea-shore, one of their number singing during the march. Some of +them even waded into the water, and got within reach of the boats; but +this was not so convenient, as they manifested a pretty strong +disposition to furnish themselves with whatever they could lay hold on. +Before the boats got to any distance, the number of the savages +increased very much, many coming up in the same manner as these had +done, at full gallop. + +<p>In the opinion of Bougainville, these people were the same that had been +seen by the Etoile in 1765; for he says, that one of his present +sailors, who was then on board that vessel, distinctly recognised one of +them. They were well shaped, and their height was estimated at betwixt 5 +feet 5 inches, and 5 feet 10 inches French; or in English, measure, 5 +feet 10,334 inches, and 6 feet 2,5704 inches. They appeared gigantic, it +is added very properly, because they had very broad shoulders, their +heads were large, and their limbs thick. They were robust and very +muscular, and seemed to enjoy perfection of health, and to possess +abundance of wholesome diet. Their figures, notwithstanding the +dimensions, were far from being coarse or unpleasant; on the contrary, +many of them might be esteemed handsome. The peculiarities of their +features were, a round and somewhat flat face, very fiery eyes, +uncommonly white teeth, and long black hair which was worn tied on the +top of the head. In the colour of the skin, they did not differ from +other Americans. Some of them had their cheeks painted red. The language +they used is said to have been very delicate. The description now given +of these people, it must be remarked, applies to the men, for hitherto +none of the women had been seen. In dress they nearly resembled the +Indians residing about the Rio de la Plata. A piece of leather served +them for an <i>apron</i>, and a cloak of skin fastened round the body with a +girdle, hung as far down as their heels, but had besides a part, +generally allowed to fall down also, which might occasionally cover +their shoulders, though this was not often done. They did not seem very +sensible to the cold of the climate, which, even at this season, viz. +their summer, was only ten degrees less than that which freezes water. +Their legs were covered with a sort of half boot, open behind; and some +of them, wore on the thigh a copper ring about two inches broad. That +they had had acquaintance with Europeans was still more clearly +manifested by sundry articles amongst them, of which are mentioned +particularly little iron knives, supposed to have been given them by +Commodore Byron a short time before. Their horses were bridled and +saddled in the same manner as those of the inhabitants of Rio de la +Plata; and one of these bulky cavaliers had gilt nails at his saddle, +wooden stirrups covered with copper plates, a bridle of twisted leather, +and an entire Spanish harness. Here did not appear to be any thing like +superiority of rank or subordination established among them; nor could +it be remarked, that three old men who were in the party, received any +peculiar marks of esteem from the rest. Bougainville gives it as his +opinion, that these savages lived somewhat in the manner of the Tartars, +traversing the immense plains of South America, living almost constantly +on horse-back, and subsisting on such fare as their hunting expeditions, +if not their pillaging ones, brought them in. + +<p>On the morning of the 9th, an attempt was made to stem the tide, by +steering S.W. by W., but the progress was very inconsiderable; and the +wind having veered from N.W. to S.W., it was found necessary to come to +an anchor again, which was done in nineteen fathom. The weather during +this day and the following one, was so exceedingly unfavourable, that +not one fit opportunity presented of sending out a boat to fulfil the +promise made to the Patagonians, which probably was an equal +disappointment to both parties. Whole troops of the natives were seen at +the place where the landing had been made, and where, there can be no +doubt, another was anxiously expected. At midnight on the 11th, the wind +having veered to N.E., and the tide having set to the westward, a signal +was made for weighing, but unfortunately the cable parted the bits and +the hawse, so that the anchor was lost. The sails being set, some way +was made next morning; but it was little, however, as the tide soon ran +contrary, and could scarcely be stemmed with the light breeze at N.W. +This difficulty was removed at noon, about which time the tide ebbed, +and favoured their passing the second gut, when the frigate came to an +anchor to the northward of the Isle of Elizabeth, in seven fathom, at +about two miles off shore, and the store-ship a quarter of a league +farther to the S.E. in seventeen fathom. A boat landed at the island on +the 12th, but the description of it is uninteresting, as, except its +presenting great facility for landing, and having some bustards, it was +no way remarkable. + +<p>On the 13th in the afternoon, they weighed and made sail betwixt the +island and the Isles of St Bartholomew and Lions, the only practicable +channel here in the opinion of Bougainville, who, however, it is likely, +rather followed the example of Byron, than investigated for himself. +Here the tide set to the southward, and was very strong, and there were +continual squalls coming off the high land of Elizabeth Island, to which +they were forced to keep near, in order to avoid the breakers extending +round the other islands. The coast of the continent from below Cape +Noir, and which runs southward, was well covered with woods, and had a +very pleasant appearance. They sailed along the coast at about a league +distance, and for a considerable time this day, hoping to be able to +double Cape Round during the night; but in this they were disappointed, +for a little after midnight, very suddenly the wind got round to the +S.W., the coast became foggy, and the weather altogether exceedingly +foul; an evidence of the fickleness of the climate. Having split their +main-sail, they had to ply to windward as well as they could, +endeavouring to get shelter in Port Famine; but this they were unable to +effect; and, as in consequence of the short tacks they had to make, and +their being obliged to wear, they were in some risk of being taken by a +strong current into a great inlet on the Terra del Fuego side, it became +necessary for them, after losing much time and labour, to go along the +coast in search of anchorage to leeward. It was not till eleven o'clock +next morning that they succeeded in this, when they got to a bay named +by him Duclos Bay, after the second in command, where they cast anchor +in eight and a half fathom, and an oozy bottom. This bay is a little to +the south of Fresh-Water Bay, and, besides having good anchorage, +affords water of an excellent quality, about four hundred yards from the +mouth of two rivers, which discharge themselves into it: No quadrupeds +were seen here, and only a very few birds. At four o'clock on the 16th, +they set sail with a pretty favourable wind, but a cloudy sky, passed +Point St Anne and Cape Round, the Cape Shutup of others, and +brought-to, within a league and a half from Cape Forward, where they +were becalmed for two hours. Between the two points last mentioned, a +distance, according to Byron, of seven leagues S.W. by S. course, +Bougainville says there are four bays in which a vessel may anchor, and +that two of them are separated from each other by a cape of a very +singular appearance and structure. It rises more than 150 feet above the +level of the sea, and consists entirely of petrified shells lying in +horizontal strata; a line of 100 fathom, it is added, did not reach the +bottom of the sea at the foot of it. This very extraordinary monument of +the revolutions which our globe has undergone, does not seem to have +been noticed by the geologists. + +<p>Cape Forward, or St Isidore, as it has been named by some navigators, +and which is the most southerly point of the American continent, lies in +lat. 54° 5' 45". It is a perpendicular rock, the top of which is covered +with snow, but some trees are to be seen on its sides. The sea below it +is too deep for anchorage; however, between two hillocks which shew on +part of its surface, there is a little bay provided with a rivulet, +where, in case of necessity, a vessel might anchor in about fifteen +fathom. Having ascertained these and some other matters during the calm +which allowed him to use his pinnace, Bougainville returned on board, +and set out for Cape Holland. But the wind veering to S.W., he went in +search of the harbour which M. de Gennes named French Bay, and anchored +between the two points which constitute its entrance, in ten fathom. +Here he resolved to take in wood and water for his voyage across the +Pacific Ocean, as it had been so favourably described by that gentleman, +and as he himself was ignorant of the remaining navigation of the +straits. But having ascertained, however, that the anchorage was not +safe here, and that the boats could not get up the river, except at high +water, he removed eastward to a small bay, in which in 1765, as related +in the account of Byron's voyage, he had taken in wood for the Falkland +Islands, and which had been named after him Bougainville's Bay. Here +then he anchored in twenty-eight fathom, and afterwards warped into the +bottom of the bay, to ensure all safety during his continuance for the +necessary repairs and getting supplies, which took him up till the end +of December, and would in all probability have consumed more time, had +not the labours of the Etoile, his present consort, when here before, +facilitated his operations. This residence, it was expected, would allow +opportunity for examining the straits in this part, besides occupying +the astronomer and botanist, and the useful pursuits of hunting and +fowling. Their success, however, was not very considerable in any of +these respects. The sky was exceedingly unfavourable for observation; +many obstacles impeded those who searched for plants; the only animal +seen was a fox, which was killed amongst the workmen; and the attempt to +explore the coast of the continent was fruitless, as the weather became +so very tempestuous, as to force those who were engaged in it to return +to the vessel with all possible celerity, after being thoroughly +drenched in rain, and almost starved to death by cold, though in the +middle of summer. Some days after this uncomfortable expedition, another +was planned to the Terra del Fuego side, and succeeded better. On the +27th, the party intended for it, consisting among others of Bougainville +himself, Messrs de Bournand, and d'Oraison, and the Prince of Nassau, +well armed with swivel-guns and muskets, sailed in the Boudeuse's +long-boat, and the Etoile's barge, across the straits, and landed at the +mouth of a little river, on the banks of which they dined beneath the +shade of a pleasant wood, where they discovered several huts belonging +to the natives. After dinner, they rowed along the coast of Terra del +Fuego in a hollow sea, and with the wind somewhat westerly, which was +unfavourable. It carried them, however, across a great inlet, of which +they could not see the end, and which, indeed, they believed, from the +circumstances of the high rolling sea, and the numbers of whales they +observed, to have a communication with the ocean at Cape Horn. On the +farther side of this inlet, they saw several fires, which were +afterwards extinguished and again lighted, when some savages made their +appearance on the low point of a bay where it was intended to touch. +They were recognized by Bougainville, as the same people he had seen in +his first voyage in the straits, and then denominated <i>Pecherais</i>, from +the word which they pronounced so often to their visitants. They are +described as most disgustingly filthy, and extremely wretched as to +provisions, and every accommodation that renders life desirable; in +short, as the poorest and most miserable of all that bear the name of +savages. Meanly, however, as they are spoken of, it is admitted, that +they have some social virtues; but, perhaps, it is a doubtful article in +the short catalogue of their commendation, that they are superstitions +enough to put implicit confidence in the efficacy of their physicians +and priests. The number of this forlorn tribe is too inconsiderable to +render their history important, even though their manners and characters +were more calculated than they are represented to be, to excite interest +or call forth sympathy on the part of the reader. The enthusiastic +eulogist of Optimism will readily reconcile their condition to the +principles which claim his admiration, by the obvious discovery, that +their natures are in alliance with their circumstances, and by the easy +belief, that hitherto no hope or idea of greater comfort had enhanced +the magnitude of their present misery. The wretch, he would say, whose +taste can regale itself on putridity and corruption, need never be held +up as an exception to the philosophical system, which finds nothing but +beauty and happiness diffused throughout the universe; though his +appearance, it must be owned, in the very act of indulgence especially, +might somewhat stagger the student who was still engaged in enquiring +into the grounds of the theory. To be content, it is often preached, is +to be happy; the reason is, however, what perhaps they who so strongly +urge the proposition, are not quite aware of in their voluntary +complacency, that, in order to be happy, one must be contented. The +dialectical skill of an Aquinas would fail to prove the theme, that +happiness exists where there are desires ungratified, and appetites +unprovided for; and most certainly, these poor <i>Pecherais</i> would never +be adduced by him as evidence, till he had humanely, though +sophistically, secured their testimony by bribing their stomachs. If one +may judge from the experience of Bougainville, this kind of subornation +would be somewhat difficult of accomplishment. To return.--The night +after falling in with these people, was passed on the banks of a pretty +considerable river, on which the party made a fire, and erected a sort +of tents with the sails of their boats, the weather being cold, though +fine. Next morning they discovered the bay and port of Beaubassin, so +called by them from the beauty of the anchoring-place, and which is +represented to be a commodious and safe situation. Bougainville +continued his survey to the westward, of which he has given a minute, +and to navigators, it is probable, a very useful description, not, +however, requisite for this work. Having spent a little time in this +excursion, and encountered a good deal of disagreeable weather, he +returned to the frigate, and on the last day of December weighed and set +sail, in order to pass the remainder of the straits. On the evening of +this day he doubled Cape Holland, and came to an anchor in the road of +Port Gallant, which was very fortunate, as the succeeding night became +tempestuous, the wind blowing hard at S.W. In this place, however, they +were forced by the state of the weather, which, it is said, was +inconceivably worse than the severest winter at Paris, to remain for +three weeks together, a space abundantly long to give them an intimate +acquaintance with the parts in their neighbourhood. Amongst the objects +which attracted their notice here, they found vestiges of the passage +and touching of English ships, especially a label of wood with the words +<i>Chatham, March</i>, 1766, and initial letters and names with the same +date, marked on several of the trees. M. Verron, who had got his +astronomical instruments on shore, made an observation, by which he +found the latitude to be 53° 40' 41" S., from which, and some bearings +taken at different times, it was inferred that the distance from Port +Gallant to Port Forward was twelve leagues. An attempt was made by the +same gentleman to determine the longitude of the bay, by means of an +eclipse of the moon which occurred on the 3d January (1768); but the +excessive rain which continued through the whole day and night +frustrated his endeavours. The declination of the needle was observed by +the azimuth-compass to be 22° 30' 32" N.E., and its inclination from the +elevation of the pole, 11° 11'. Such is the poor amount of the +astronomical labours for nearly a month, in this so uncourteous a season +and climate. During this long and disagreeable residence, most annoying +to both men of science and common sailors, some visits from the +<i>Pecherais</i>, already mentioned, afforded a little recreation, but of no +very elegant or dignified kind; and even this, indifferent as it was, +presented a melancholy accident, with which the reader has been already +made acquainted--one of the children of these poor creatures swallowing +some bits of glass, improvidently given him by the sailors, and losing +his life in consequence.[167] On the 13th, 14th, and 15th of January, +the weather assumed something of a milder form; and on the 16th, +appearances were altogether so agreeable, as to induce Bougainville to +weigh, the breeze being from the north, and the tide, which was ebbing, +in his favour. He was not long, however, before he had cause to repent +his facility of confidence. The wind soon shifted to W. and W.S.W., and +the tide would not serve him to gain Rupert Isle. His vessel sailed very +ill, and drove rapidly to leeward. The Etoile, it seems, had now +considerably the advantage over her. They plied all this day between +Rupert Island, and a head-land of the continent, waiting for the ebb, +with which it was hoped they might gain either the anchoring-place in +Bay Dauphine on Louis le Grand Island, or Elizabeth Bay. But as ground +was lost in this labour, Bougainville sent out a boat to sound for an +anchorage to the S.E. of Rupert's Island, where he now intended to wait, +if possible, till the tide became favourable. A signal was made from the +boat that this was found, but by this time they had fallen to leeward of +it, and had to endeavour to gain it by making a board in-shore. The +frigate unfortunately missed stays twice, and it became necessary to +wear, in the very act of which, the force of the tide brought her to the +wind again, a strong current having already taken her within half a +cable's length of the shore. In this state, an anchor was let go in +eight fathom, but falling upon rocks it came home again. At this time, +they had only three fathom and a half of water astern, and were not more +than thrice the length of the ship from the shore, when a little breeze +opportunely springing up, filled their sails, and carried them to +leeward, the boats of both vessels coming a-head, and taking her in tow. +Their danger, however, was yet to be increased, for when veering away +their cable, it happened to get foul between decks, and so stopt their +course; a hinderance, for which there remained no other remedy than that +of cutting it, which was most promptly done, and saved the ship. The +breeze then freshened, and enabled them with some difficulty and +tacking, to return to Port Gallant, where they anchored in twenty +fathom, and an oozy bottom. Thus ended their enjoyment of the fine +weather. + +<blockquote>[Footnote 167: This is particularly related in our account of Cook's +voyage, vol. xii. p. 397.]--E.]</blockquote> + +<p>On the following day, a greater storm came on than had been yet +experienced. The sea ran mountains high in the channel, and often +exhibited waves striking in contrary directions against each other. A +clap of thunder was heard at noon, the only one they had ever noticed in +this strait, and it seemed to be a signal for an increased violence of +the wind. They dragged their anchor in the storm, and were obliged to +let go the sheet-anchor, and to strike their lower yards and top-masts. +Some intervals between the bad weather occurred on the 18th and 19th, +and allowed them, among other things, to send the Etoile's barge, which +was in peculiar good condition, to view the channel of <i>Sainte Barbe</i>, +about which, however, his information was so scanty and apparently +incorrect, at least imperfect, as to prove of little utility in his +present situation. This he the more regretted, as, in his opinion, the +perfect knowledge of it would have considerably shortened the passage of +the straits. It requires little time, he remarks, to get to Port +Gallant, the chief difficulty being to double Cape Forward, which, he +says, is rendered easier by the discovery he made of three ports on the +Terra del Fuego side; and when once that port is gained, even though the +winds should prevent a vessel taking the ordinary course, this channel +is open, and may be gone through in twenty-four hours, so as to reach +the South Sea. He could not perfectly demonstrate the truth of this +opinion he entertained, as the bad weather prevented the examination of +some points as he had projected. + +<p>The storm and bad weather continued with little intermission till the +24th, when a calm and some sun-shine induced him to make another attempt +to proceed. Since re-entering Port Gallant, he had taken in several tons +of ballast, and altered his stowage, by which he succeeded in getting +the frigate to sail better than it did before. On the whole, however, he +remarks, it will always be found very difficult to manage so long a +vessel as a frigate usually is, in the midst of currents. Captain Cook, +perhaps, had contemplated such a difficulty, when he assigned his +reasons for preferring a vessel like the Endeavour, for the purposes of +discovery. + +<p>On the 25th, at one in the morning, they unmoored, weighed at three, the +breeze being northerly, but settling in the east at half-past five, when +they got top-gallant and studding-sails set, a circumstance somewhat +unusual in this navigation. They kept the middle of the strait, +following the windings of what Narborough justly calls Crooked Reach. +The coast runs W.N.W. for about two leagues from Bay Elizabeth, when +you reach the Bachelor river of that navigator. This is easily known; it +comes from a deep valley, having a high mountain on the west, the most +westerly point of which is low and wooded, and the coast is sandy. +Bougainville reckons three leagues from this river to the entrance of St +Jerome's channel, or the False Strait as others have called it, and the +bearing is N.W. by W. This channel, the entrance of which is said to be +about half a league broad, may be easily mistaken for the true one, as +it is admitted, happened at first on the present occasion. In order to +avoid it, Bougainville advises to keep the coast of Louis le Grand +Island on board, which may be done, he says, without danger. He himself +ran within a mile of the shore of this island, which is about four +leagues long, and the north side of which runs W.N.W., as far as Bay +Dauphine. At noon this day, Cape Quade (or Quod) which is about four +leagues from St Jerome's channel, bore W. 13° S. two leagues distant, +and Cape St Louis, E. by N. about two leagues and a half. The weather +continued fair, and they had the advantage of all their sails being set. + +<p>The strait runs W.N.W. and N.W. by W. from Cape Quade, and being without +any considerable turnings, has obtained the name of Long-Reach. The cape +consists of craggy rocks, resembling some ancient ruins, and the coast, +up to it is wooded, the verdure of the trees contrasting finely with the +frozen and snowy summits of the neighbouring mountains; but after +doubling this point, the nature of the country is said to be very +different, presenting scarcely any thing but barren rocks, the intervals +of which are filled up with immense masses of no less unfriendly ice, +altogether meriting the name which Narborough bestowed on it in the +penury of his feelings, the Desolation of the South. Opposite this cape, +and about fifteen leagues off, is Cape Monday on the Terra del Fuego +side, which, with other remarkable points of this strait, we have +elsewhere described. Bougainville was tempted by the fineness of the +weather to continue his course in this strait during the night, but the +excessive rain and wind which came on about ten o'clock, made him repent +his temerity, and rendered his situation betwixt two shores, which it +required the greatest caution and continual activity to avoid, one of +the most critical and unpleasant he experienced during the voyage. The +dawn of the following day, gave them sight of the land, which for some +hours they had been groping against in the utmost fear of collision; +and about noon, they descried Cape Pillar, the termination of this +perilous strait, beyond which, there beamed on their joyful eyes an +immense horizon and an unspotted sea. + +<p>Fifty-two days were elapsed since they left Cape Virgin, the half of +which had been spent in inactive but painful suffering at Port Gallant. +Bougainville reckons the length of the strait at about one-hundred and +fourteen leagues, viz. from Cape Virgin Mary to Cape Pillar; and in his +opinion, notwithstanding the difficulties of the passage, it is to be +preferred to doubling Cape Horn, especially in the period from September +to the end of March. His reasons for this opinion, and the concurrent +and contrary sentiments of other navigators, have been either already +stated, or will require to be so hereafter, and need not now interrupt +our prosecution of the remainder of his voyage. + +<p>A few days after entering the Western Sea, the wind got S. and S.S.W. +This was sooner than Bougainville expected, as it was thought the west +winds generally lasted to about 30°, and obliged him to lay aside his +intention of going to the isle of Juan Fernandez, as the doing so would +necessarily prolong his voyage. He stood, therefore, as much as possible +to the west, in order to keep the wind, and to get off the coast; and +with a view to discover a greater space of the ocean, he directed the +commander of the Etoile to go every morning southward as far from him as +the weather would permit, keeping in sight, and to join, him in the +evening, and follow in his wake at about half a league's distance. This +it was hoped would both facilitate examination, and secure mutual +assistance, and was the order of sailing preserved throughout the +voyage. + +<p>He now directed his course in search of the land seen by Davis in 1686, +between 27° and 28° south latitude, and sought for in vain by Roggewein. +This search, however, was equally fruitless, though Bougainville crossed +the position laid down for it in M. de Bellin's chart. His conclusion, +in consequence, is, that the land spoken of by Davis was no other than +the isles of St Ambrose and St Felix, which are about two hundred +leagues off the coast of Chili. Westerly winds came on about the 23d of +February, and lasted to the 3d of March, the weather varying much, but +almost every day bringing rain about noon, accompanied with thunder. +This seemed strange to Bougainville, as this ocean under the tropic had +always been renowned for the uniformity and freshness of the E. and S.E. +trade-winds, supposed to last throughout the year. In the month of +February, four astronomical observations were made for determining the +longitude. The first, made on the 6th, differed 31' from the reckoning, +the latter being to the westward. The second, on the 11th, differed 37' +45", in the opposite direction. By the third, made on the 22d, the +reckoning was 42' 30", westward in excess; and that of the 27th shewed a +difference of 1' 25" in the same line. At this time they had calms and +contrary winds. The thermometer, till they came to 45° latitude, had +always kept between 5° and 8° above the freezing point; after that, it +rose successively, and when they were between 27° and 24° latitude, +varied upwards a good deal. A sore throat prevailed among the crew of +the frigate ever since leaving the straits, and was attributed, whether +justly or not, to the snow waters they had been in the habit of using +there. It was not, however, very obstinate, readily yielding to simple +remedies; and at the end of March, it is said, there was no body on the +sick list. + +<p>On the 21st of this month, a tunny was caught with some little fish, not +yet digested in its belly, which are noticed never to go any great +distance from the shore. This accordingly was held as an indication of +land being near, and indeed a just one, in the present instance; for +about six in the morning of the next day, they got sight of four little +isles at one time, bearing S.S.E. 1/2 E., and of another about four +leagues west. The former, Bougainville called <i>les quatre Facardins</i>, +but being too far to windward for him at present, he preferred standing +for the single one a-head. On approaching this, it was discovered to be +surrounded with a very level sand, and to have all its interior parts +covered with thick woods surmounted by cocoa-trees. So delightful an +appearance as it presented, lost none of its charms in the eyes of men +who longed for the refreshments of dry land and the vegetable world. But +their desires must have consumed them, had this been the only shore +which could gratify them. It was found impossible to land on it, or to +obtain the advantages which it seemed to hold out to their hopes. +Bougainville bestowed on it the name of <i>Isle des Lanciers</i>, from the +circumstance of his noticing about fifteen or twenty of its inhabitants +carrying very long pikes, as in the act of brandishing them against the +ship, with signs of threatening. After this idle display of courage, +they were seen to retire to the woods, where it was possible to +distinguish their huts by means of glasses. The men are represented as +being tall, and of a bronze colour, and destitute of clothing. + +<p>In the night of the 22d, a storm came on attended with thunder and rain, +which obliged Bougainville to bring to, for fear of running against some +of the lowlands in this sea. At day-break on the following day, land was +seen bearing from N.E. by N. to N.N.W., which he stood for; at eight +o'clock, he got about three leagues from its eastermost point; but then +perceiving that there were breakers all along the opposite coast, which +seemed low and covered with trees, he stood out to sea again, waiting +for fairer weather to permit a nearer approach. This was done towards +ten o'clock, when the island was not more than a league off. Similar +difficulties, however, were experienced here, as at the former island; +and after several fruitless attempts to find anchorage for the ships, or +a landing-place for the boats, it was necessary to abandon it, which was +done with similar feelings of chagrin on the morning of the 24th. This +island was denominated Harp Island, from its figure, and had inhabitants +much resembling those of the one which had been previously discovered. +At five in the afternoon of this day, an island was discovered about +seven or eight leagues distant; another, in the morning of the 25th, +extending S.E. and N.W.; and the course was continued till the 27th, +between several low and partly overflowed islands, four of which were +examined and found quite inaccessible, or undeserving of being visited. +To the whole cluster, Bougainville gave the name of <i>Dangerous +Archipelago</i>, by which they have been generally known since his day, and +which sufficiently indicates the nature of the navigation around them. + +<p>He now shaped his course more southerly, in order to avoid a situation +which presented him with so many difficulties, and yielded so few +comforts; and on the 28th, he ceased to see land. About this time, it is +noted, the scurvy made its appearance on eight or ten of the crew, +which was imputed in a great degree to the moistness of the weather. +Lemonade was the principal article used for the removal or prevention of +it. From the 3d of March till his arrival at New Britain, Bougainville +constantly used Poissonier's distilling apparatus, by which, he says, +above a barrel of tolerably fresh water was obtained daily. + +<p>On the 2d of April, the island of Otaheite, or Taiti, as Bougainville +calls it, was got sight of, and soon afterwards were discovered some of +the islands in its neighbourhood. But it was not till the 4th, that, +when standing in for the shore of the former, as likely to realize the +hopes of refreshment, which had been so eagerly entertained by the crew, +some of the natives came off to them in their canoes, and commenced a +friendly intercourse. Being ignorant of the coast and nature of the +situation, for to Bougainville, at this time, Otaheite was a new +discovery, a good deal of time was lost in examining the island for an +anchoring-place, which was not determined on till the 6th. The numbers +of islanders that surrounded the ships as they neared the land, rendered +the operations of mooring and warping somewhat difficult and +troublesome. The manners too of these <i>easy</i> people multiplied +embarrassments, of a particular kind, which it required no ordinary +authority and self-denial to controul. In one instance, however, it is +said, the presence of an Otaheitan Venus, in any thing else than a +repulsive attitude, had the effect of expediting the necessary work. +Both sailors and soldiers, it seems, pressed towards the hatch-way, +where she had planted herself in all the revealed attraction of <i>native</i> +beauty; and the capstern was in consequence hove with more than common +eagerness and expedition. But the utmost care, one may readily believe, +was requisite to keep these enchanted fellows in good order. It is a +trite remark, that the imaginary anticipation of pleasure is seldom or +ever equalled by the enjoyment of it. Independent of the causes which +may account for such commonly experienced disappointment, it is ten to +one in almost any case, but that in a world like this, some vexatious +occurrence or other, nowise calculated on by an excited fancy, will +altogether prevent the realization hoped for. Such was the fortune of +Bougainville's cook, who, in spite of the law to the contrary, effected +his escape to the shore in company with a complying damsel. The poor +fellow soon returned on board, more dead than alive. Immediately on +landing, it seems, the natives surrounded him, and with all the ease and +genuine curiosity of naturalists inspecting a non-descript mineral, +proceeded to turn him over and over, undressing him from head to foot, +and pawing him about most tumultuously. They afterwards returned him his +clothes, replacing whatever they had taken out of his pockets, and then +brought the girl to him. But after such a scrutinizing and fatiguing +process, it was no wonder that the terrified cook should desist from his +addresses, and make the best of his way back. He afterwards said, his +master might reprimand him as much as he pleased, but could never +frighten him so much as he had been frightened on shore. When the ships +were moored, Bougainville with several of his officers went to survey +the watering-place. The natives expressed joy at their arrival; and the +chief of the district conducted them into his own house, and entertained +them there with liberal hospitality. The rights of friendship, +nevertheless, did not obliterate the inclination to thieving, so +prevalent among these people, for a little before going on board, one of +the gentlemen missed a pistol, which he had been in the habit of +carrying in his pocket. The chief was immediately informed of it, and +gave orders for searching all the persons present. Bougainville stopped +him, and endeavoured to make him understand, that the thief would +certainly be the victim of his own dishonesty, for that what he had +stolen would kill him. This hint had the desired effect; for on the +following day, the pistol was brought on board by the chief himself. + +<p>It was now proposed to erect a camp on shore for the sick, and to carry +on the watering and other necessary operations. But this was soon +opposed, the principal people of the district, headed by the chief, +whose name was Ereti, and his father, coming to Bougainville, and +expressing their unwillingness to suffer any of the crew to remain on +shore at night, though they did not object to frequenting it in the +day-time. To this tolerably reasonable intimation, Bougainville replied, +that encampment was absolutely necessary for him, and would facilitate +the friendly intercourse that had been commenced. On this, the natives +held a council, the result of which was, that the chief came to +Bougainville, and made enquiry of him, whether or not he intended to +remain there for ever, and if the latter, how long it would be before he +departed. He was informed that the ships were to sail in eighteen days. +Another council was now held, at which Bougainville was desired to be +present. A grave man who took an active part in the conference, was very +desirous to reduce the time of encamping to half the number of days; but +Bougainville still insisted on his original proposal, to which at last +the council assented, and a good understanding was immediately restored. +The remainder of the stay here does not seem, however, to have been +either very peaceable or free from danger. The thieving disposition of +the natives occasioned several unpleasant contentions and perpetual +jealousy. Two of them were murdered by some of the crew, but on what +grounds, or by whom particularly, it is said, could not be discovered. +The circumstance led to much apprehension of an attempt to revenge, and +measures were accordingly taken to render it inefficient, but they were +seemingly unnecessary. The dangers at sea were much more formidable, and +far less easily provided against. It is perhaps quite enough to say of +them, that the ships were for a considerable time in the greatest risque +of being wrecked on the reef coast of the island, and that in the short +space of nine days during which they were here, they lost no less than +six anchors. All this, it is probable, would have been avoided, if +Bougainville had been better acquainted with the island. His description +of it, indeed, is so imperfect, and in several respects erroneous, as to +be altogether void of interest to any one who peruses what we have +already given on the subject, in the preceding and present volumes. We +shall accordingly pass it over, specifying only a few particulars +respecting one of its natives Aotourou, who, at his own desire, +accompanied Bougainville to Europe, and whose history has attracted a +little notice. + +<p>This young man was the son of an Otaheitan chief, and a captive woman of +the neighbouring isle of Oopoa, with the natives of which the Otaheitans +often carried on war. Immediately on Bougainville's arrival at his +native place, he expressed a determination to follow the strangers, +which his countrymen seemed to applaud, and his zeal in which was so +great as to overcome an attachment to a handsome girl, from whom he had +to tear himself on coming aboard the ship. Bougainville admits, that in +yielding to this determination, he hoped to avail himself of one whose +knowledge of the language of the people in this part of the world, was +likely to be useful in the remainder of his voyage; and besides this, +which perhaps was laudable enough, or at least justifiable, he +entertained the supposition, rather an unlikely one indeed, that through +him on his return, <i>enriched by the useful knowledge</i> which he would +bring, a profitable union might be established betwixt these islanders +and his own nation. The immediate advantages were not considerable, for +this youth's talents were but slender, and the ultimate object was never +accomplished, as he died of the small-pox in the voyage out to Otaheite. +Bougainville, notwithstanding, is deserving of credit for the care and +attention he bestowed on him. He spared neither money nor trouble to +render his residence at Paris both comfortable and useful, and so far +succeeded, it appears, as that during the long time Aotourou was there, +he gave no symptoms of weariness. But it is certain, on the other hand, +that his advancement in useful knowledge was not very flattering to his +teachers, and never equalled the favourable ideas Bougainville had +entertained of his capabilities. Mr Forster says, in a footnote to the +translation, that some Englishmen who saw him at Paris, and whose +testimony, were their names mentioned, would be decisive with the +public, were decidedly of opinion, that Aotourou was naturally a stupid +fellow, an opinion, it seems, in which his own countrymen unanimously +concurred. The amount of his improvements, even on Bougainville's own +evidence, was, his <i>scarcely</i> blabbering out some French words, his +finding his way through Paris, his <i>hardly ever</i> paying for things +beyond their real value, and his <i>perfectly well knowing the days of the +opera</i>, to the amusements of which he shewed an excessive partiality. +These degrees of refinement, it must be allowed, do not indicate +superlative talents; yet, if one may judge from the advancement in +<i>Frenchification</i> made by many who have visited Paris from other +countries, they may not depreciate the docility of poor Aotourou, much +below the common average! He embarked at Rochelle in 1770, on board the +Brisson, which was to take him to the Isle of France, whence, by orders +of the ministry, he was to be conveyed home, which, as already +mentioned, he never reached. + +<p>At eight in the morning of the 16th of April, the ships were about ten +leagues N.E. by N. off the north point of Otaheite, from which point, +Bougainville now took his departure. He got sight of some land in the +vicinity on the same day, and shaped his course so as to avoid what +Roggewein called the Pernicious Isles. During the remainder of this +month, the weather continued very fine, and the winds were chiefly from +the east inclining to the north. In the first week of May, several +islands were discovered, which Bougainville divided into two clusters, +calling one the Archipelago of Bourbon, and the other the Archipelago of +the Navigators. Some of them, it is probable, had been known before, as +the ascertained longitude corresponded tolerably well with that which +Abel Tasman gave for the isles of Amsterdam, Rotterdam, &c. bad weather +came on the 6th of this month, and continued with scarcely any +interruption till the 20th, during which period, calms, rains, and +westerly winds were to be encountered. The situation of the ships had +now become very distressing. There was a scarcity of water and wholesome +provisions; the scurvy broke out among the crew, and several men were +affected with venereal symptoms, the consequence, it is said, of +infection got at Otaheite. Hence it is asked, but by no means is the +affirmative reply distinctly asserted, if the English brought it there? +This subject has been discussed with tolerable freedom in another part +of this work, and need not be resumed here. Such critical circumstances +induced Bougainville to use all possible speed in getting to some place +of refreshment, and of course materially interfered with his plan of +making discoveries. + +<p>On the 22d of May, two isles were observed, the most southerly bearing +from S. by E. to S.W. by S., and seeming to be about twelve leagues +long, in a N.N.W. direction; the other bore from S.W. 1/2 S. to W.N.W., +and having been first seen at day-break, was called Aurora. To the +former, in honour of the day, was given the name of <i>Isle de la +Pentecôte</i>, or Whitsun Isle. Bougainville attempted to pass betwixt +these two islands, but the wind failing him, he was obliged to go to +leeward of Aurora. In getting to the northward, along its eastern shore, +he saw a little isle, rising like a sugar-loaf and bearing N. by W. +which he denominated Peak of the Etoile. He now ranged along the Isle +of Aurora, at about a league and a half distant. It is described as +about ten leagues in length, but not more than two in breadth, with +steep shores, and as covered with wood. At two in the afternoon, when +coasting this isle, the summits of high mountains were perceived over +it, about ten leagues off, which belonged to another island, as was +found next morning. This island lay S.W. of Aurora, and at the nearest +part was about three or four leagues from it. Several canoes were seen +along its coasts, but none of the natives put off to the ships. Though +no bottom could be found near the shore with fifty fathom, yet +Bougainville resolved, if possible, to make a landing on it, in order to +get wood and necessary refreshments. A party of men was accordingly sent +off in three armed boats; and effected a landing without any opposition. +Bougainville himself and some others went to join this party in the +afternoon, and found it busily employed as directed, the natives lending +considerable assistance by conveying wood, &c. to the boats. At first, +indeed, they presented themselves in an armed posture, and seemed +resolved to prevent any intrusion on their ground, but the prudent and +conciliatory conduct of the officers effected a relinquishment of +immediate hostility. This, it is thought, was but deceitful, and +apparently intended to throw the party off its guard. Very probably, +they meditated a serious attack, but were disconcerted by the party +embarking sooner than they expected. In doing so, they exhibited what +had continued to actuate them, for when the party put off in their +boats, these people followed it, and showed their dexterity in throwing +stones and arrows, from which they did not desist, till twice fired on +by the crew. These savages are unfavourably described; they are said to +have been ugly, of short stature, and ill proportioned; and as they were +affected with a disease which Bougainville considered leprosy, this +island got the name of Isle of Lepers. The few women that were seen, at +best rivalled the men in disagreeable appearance, and were about as +naked. + +<p>Bougainville now made sail to the S.W. for a long coast in sight, +extending as far as the eye could reach, from S.W. to W.N.W., but as +there was little or no wind during the 24th, both day and night, he was +left to the mercy of the currents, which would scarcely allow him to get +three leagues off the Isle of Lepers. He advanced somewhat better on the +25th, though the Etoile still lay becalmed, and at last found himself, +as it were, shut up in a great gulph in the land, which lay to the west. +Not knowing whether he was so or not, it became necessary to stand again +towards that island, and in consequence the 25th was lost in making +short tacks, which were the more required, as the Etoile did not feel +the breeze till the evening. + +<p>The bearings taken on the 26th, shewed that the currents had taken them +several miles to the southward of their reckoning. Whitsun-isle still +appeared separated from the S.W. land, but by a narrower passage, and +what had before been considered a continued coast, was now found to be a +cluster of islands. Some agreeable appearances induced several attempts +at landing, but they were unavailing, and only exposed those that made +them to attacks from the natives, who seemed to concur with the natural +difficulties around their islands, in preventing too near an approach. +Bougainville bestowed the name of Archipelago of the Great Cyclades on +these very numerous isles, which lie in 30° S. latitude, and 180° +longitude west of Ferro, and which have been better known since the time +of Cook by the name of New Hebrides. During Bougainville's being on +board the Etoile about this time, transacting some necessary business, +he had the opportunity of verifying a report, which had for a good while +been circulated in both ships, viz. that M. de Commerçon's servant, +named Baré, was a woman. Several suspicious circumstances had been +noticed as to her sex, and something amounting to a discovery of it had +been made, it seems, by the <i>very discerning</i> people of Otaheite; but +now, she came to Bougainville, her face covered with tears, and +confessed it, giving a history of herself, and an explanation of her +reasons for undertaking so romantic an expedition. "She will be the +first woman," says Bougainville, "that ever made such a voyage, and I +must do her the justice to affirm, that she always behaved on board with +the most scrupulous modesty. She was neither ugly nor handsome, and not +more than twenty-six or twenty-seven years of age. It must be owned, +that if the two ships had been wrecked on any uninhabited island in the +ocean, the fate of Baré would have been a very singular one." The idea +perhaps is scarcely susceptible of embellishment, but one may wonder, +that it never struck the fancy of a poet. + +<p>On the 29th of May, they lost sight of the land, which had so much but +so fruitlessly engaged their attention, and sailed westward with a very +fresh south-east wind. This brought them on the 4th June, to a low flat +island, surrounded, by a dangerous shoal, to which with little courtesy, +perhaps, to the goddess, was given the name of the Shoal of Diana. A +sand-bank and breakers were discovered on the 6th, and indicated such a +dangerous navigation, that Bougainville immediately resolved on altering +his course, which he did by steering N.E. by N., abandoning entirely his +scheme of proceeding westward, in the latitude of 15°. He justifies this +conduct by the reflection, that though he had persevered in his original +intention, he must have reached the eastern coast of New Holland, which, +estimating it by what Dampier ascertained of the western coast, would +have proved both unimportant and inhospitable. The judicious reader, +however, will allow far greater weight to the circumstances of his +deficiency for an uncertain navigation, than to such hypothetical +reasoning. He had only bread for two months, and pulse for forty days; +and his salt meat had become so bad, that the crew preferred the rats to +it, whenever they were fortunate enough to catch them. + +<p>The S.E. wind unluckily failing them, their course from the 7th made +good, was only N. by E., when on the 10th at day-break, land was seen, +bearing from E. to N.W., a delicious smell having previously intimated +its vicinity. This was off the N.E. coast of New Holland, the passage +betwixt which and New Britain, Bougainville mistook for a deep gulph or +bay, and which of course he had the utmost difficulty to get clear of, +with an unfavourable wind, very bad weather, and a great south-eastern +swell. This mistake seems to have occasioned him more danger and much +greater hardships than had yet been experienced. To this imaginary +gulph, Bougainville gave the name of Gulph of the Louisiade, and that of +Cape Deliverance to its N. or N.N.E. extremity, which he doubled after +no less than a fortnight spent in extreme peril and continual fears. In +the morning of the 28th, when about sixty leagues to the northward of +this cape, and steering N.E. on the coast of New Britain, he discovered +land to the N.W. nine or ten leagues off. This proved to be two isles, +and about the same time there appeared a long high coast, extending to +the northward for some distance, and then turning to N.N.W. His +situation was extremely hazardous among these lands, to him altogether +unknown, often surrounded with dangerous shoals, and his boats, which +were occasionally sent out to sound, being sometimes beset by the +natives. It was not till the 5th of July, that he succeeded in finding +any thing like safe anchorage, which he at last effected in Carteret's +Harbour, or, as he calls it, Port Praslin. It was here, as we have +elsewhere related, that he found some vestiges of the Swallow's +residence a short time before. The situation was far from yielding the +advantages so much longed for; no refreshments could be procured for the +sick, and scarcely any thing solid for the healthy. The miseries of +famine stared them in the face, and the delay occasioned by the +necessity of repairing the vessels, and the wretched state of the +weather, aggravated their sufferings in the highest degree. At last, on +the evening of the 24th, a breeze springing up from the bottom of the +harbour, enabled them, with the help of the boats, to get out to sea, +when they steered from E. by S. to N.N.E., turning to northward with the +land. The longitude was corrected by observation on leaving Port +Praslin, which gave a difference of about 3°, the reckoning being to the +eastward. + +<p>Bougainville now coasted New Britain for some time, passing betwixt it +and a series of islands, on which he bestowed the names of his principal +officers. The sufferings of the crew for want of proper and sufficient +victuals, were now extreme; but no one, we are told, was dejected or +altogether lost patience. On the contrary, it was quite usual for both +officers and men to dance in the evenings, as if in a time of the +greatest ease and plenty. Such recreation, one may most certainly infer +from Bougainville's own words, must soon have been performed very +languidly, and in a little time longer ceased entirely; for it became +necessary to shorten even the small allowance of food, which, repeated +attempts at landing on different shores failed to augment, and the +quality of the provisions too, was such, as in the emphatic language of +Bougainville, rendered those the hardest moments of the sad days they +passed, when the bell gave notice to receive the disgusting and +unwholesome fare. The scurvy also made fearful impression on them after +leaving Port Praslin; no one could be said to be quite free from it, +and half of the ships' companies could not do duty. But such misery was +now near a termination, for having navigated, with several nautical +difficulties, a strait formed by the Papou Isles denominated <i>Passage +des Francois</i>, the ships came to an anchor on the last day of August, in +Cajeli Bay, on the coast of the island Boero, where there was a Dutch +settlement, and where provisions of an excellent sort, and the necessary +refreshments, were got in abundance. The effects of such a favourable +change were most speedy and obvious, so that in the course of six days, +all things were ready for prosecuting the voyage. Bougainville therefore +left Boero on the 7th September, and steered successively N.E. by N. and +N.N.E in order to clear the guiph of Cajeli. Having accomplished this, +he directed his course through the straits of Bouton, of which, and of +the adjacent coasts, he has given a tolerably minute description, +useful, it is likely, to mariners. After this, he got sight of the high +lands of the island Saleyer, on the 18th September, and passed the +strait betwixt it and the island of Celebes. On the 21st, he got sight +of the isles Alambia, the position of which, as of several other +interesting points in this navigation, it is candidly admitted, is very +inaccurately laid down in the common French charts; but Bougainville +takes the opportunity, which, it is believed, no one will grudge, of +paying a tribute of commendation to the labours and worth of D'Anville. +His map of Asia, he says, published in 1752, gave him the greatest +assistance, and is very good from Ceram to the isles of Alambia, +Bougainville having verified his positions in this navigation. He adds, +"I do this justice to M. D'Anville's work with pleasure; I knew him +intimately, and he appeared to me to be as good a member of society as +he was a critic and a man of erudition." Bougainville now kept along the +shore of Java, and after being out at sea for ten months and a half, +arrived at Batavia on the 28th of September. + +<p>After the account we have already given of Batavia in this volume, it +would be quite unnecessary to notice what Bougainville says of it. We +shall only mention that his experience of its unhealthiness was such, as +made him use all imaginable expedition to leave it, in order to save the +lives of his people, who were reduced to a most deplorable state of +health. What Captain Cook says of his old sail-makers is somewhat +paralleled by what Bougainville relates of the effect of the novelties +of Batavia on the Otaheitan man Aotourou, in keeping him so highly and +constantly excited, as for long to preserve him from the prevailing +illnesses. At last, we are told, the poor fellow fell sick, and it is +mentioned, evidently in praise of his docility, that he became as good a +swallower of physic, as a man born in Paris! The inference from this is +somewhat dubious, but not to be sceptical, <i>valeat quantum valere +potest</i>. Aotourou's remembrance of the evils of Batavia was such, as +prompted him, whenever he named it, to call it, in the language of his +country, <i>enoua mate</i>, "the land which kills." + +<p>It was the 16th October when Bougainville quitted Batavia, on the 19th +he cleared the straits of Sunda, and in little more than a fortnight +afterwards, he came in sight of the Isle of France, where he found it +necessary to put in, to have the frigate hove down and repaired, and to +procure refreshments for his voyage home. Having accomplished these +objects, he set sail on the 12th December, leaving the Etoile there to +be careened, as his junction with her was no longer needed for either +vessel. On touching at the Cape of Good Hope, he learned, as is +elsewhere mentioned, that Captain Carteret was eleven days before him. +This, however, owing to the state of the Swallow, was an inconsiderable +advantage, and soon ceased to exist. The particulars of the meeting +which took place betwixt that vessel and Bougainville's, have been +related in our account of Carteret's voyage, to which the reader is +referred. + +<p>On the 4th of March, Bougainville got sight of the isle of Tereera, on +the 14th of Ushant, and on the 16th entered the port of St Maloes, after +a voyage of two years and four months. + +<h2>END OF THE THIRTEENTH VOLUME.</h2> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14464 ***</div> +</body> + +</html> + |