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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:44:32 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:44:32 -0700 |
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diff --git a/14451-h/14451-h.htm b/14451-h/14451-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7423477 --- /dev/null +++ b/14451-h/14451-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,8885 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> + +<HTML> +<HEAD> + <META name="generator" content= + "HTML Tidy for Windows (vers 1st August 2004), see www.w3.org"> + <META http-equiv="Content-Type" content= + "text/html; charset=UTF-8"> + + <TITLE>The Project Gutenberg eBook of African Camp Fires, by + Stewart Edward White.</TITLE> +<STYLE type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + } + HR { width: 33%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + .linenum {position: absolute; top: auto; left: 4%;} /* poetry number */ + .note {margin-left: 2em; margin-right: 2em; margin-bottom: 1em;} /* footnote */ + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + .pagenum {position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: smaller; text-align: right;} /* page numbers */ + .sidenote {width: 20%; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 1em; padding-left: 1em; font-size: smaller; float: right; clear: right;} + + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} + .poem br {display: none;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem span {display: block; margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i2 {display: block; margin-left: 2em;} + .poem span.i4 {display: block; margin-left: 4em;} + .poem .caesura {vertical-align: -200%;} + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ +</STYLE> +</HEAD> + +<BODY> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14451 ***</div> + + <H1>AFRICAN CAMP FIRES</H1> + + <H3>BY</H3> + + <H2>STEWART EDWARD WHITE</H2><SPAN style= + 'margin-left: 2.5em;'>THOMAS NELSON AND SONS</SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>LONDON, EDINBURGH, + DUBLIN</SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>AND NEW YORK</SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>[1914]</SPAN><BR> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + + <CENTER> + <IMG src="images/frontispiece.jpg" alt= + "Trophy room of the author" title="Trophy room of the author" + width="495" height="352"> + </CENTER> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + + <H2>CONTENTS.</H2><A href='#PART_I'><B>PART I.</B></A>—TO + THE ISLAND OF WAR.<BR> + <A href='#I'><B>I.</B></A> THE OPEN DOOR<BR> + <A href='#II'><B>II.</B></A> THE FAREWELL<BR> + <A href='#III'><B>III.</B></A> PORT SAID<BR> + <A href='#IV'><B>IV.</B></A> SUEZ<BR> + <A href='#V'><B>V.</B></A> THE RED SEA<BR> + <A href='#VI'><B>VI.</B></A> ADEN<BR> + <A href='#VII'><B>VII.</B></A> THE INDIAN OCEAN<BR> + <A href='#VIII'><B>VIII.</B></A> MOMBASA<BR> + <BR> + <A href='#PART_II'><B>PART II.</B></A>—THE SHIMBA + HILLS.<BR> + <A href='#IX'><B>IX.</B></A> A TROPICAL JUNGLE<BR> + <A href='#X'><B>X.</B></A> THE SABLE<BR> + <A href='#XI'><B>XI.</B></A> A MARCH ALONG THE COAST<BR> + <A href='#XII'><B>XII.</B></A> THE FIRE<BR> + <BR> + <A href='#PART_III'><B>PART III.</B></A>—NAIROBI.<BR> + <A href='#XIII'><B>XIII.</B></A> UP FROM THE COAST<BR> + <A href='#XIV'><B>XIV.</B></A> A TOWN OF CONTRASTS<BR> + <A href='#XV'><B>XV.</B></A> PEOPLE<BR> + <A href='#XVI'><B>XVI.</B></A> RECRUITING<BR> + <BR> + <A href='#PART_IV'><B>PART IV.</B></A>—A LION HUNT ON + KAPITI.<BR> + <A href='#XVII'><B>XVII.</B></A> AN OSTRICH FARM AT MACHAKOS<BR> + <A href='#XVIII'><B>XVIII</B></A> THE FIRST LIONESS<BR> + <A href='#XIX'><B>XIX.</B></A> THE DOGS<BR> + <A href='#XX'><B>XX.</B></A> BONDONI<BR> + <A href='#XXI'><B>XXI.</B></A> RIDING THE PLAINS<BR> + <A href='#XXII'><B>XXII.</B></A> THE SECOND LIONESS<BR> + <A href='#XXIII'><B>XXIII.</B></A> THE BIG LION<BR> + <A href='#XXIV'><B>XXIV.</B></A> THE FIFTEEN LIONS<BR> + <BR> + <A href='#PART_V'><B>PART V.</B></A>—THE TSAVO RIVER.<BR> + <A href='#XXV'><B>XXV.</B></A> VOI<BR> + <A href='#XXVI'><B>XXVI.</B></A> THE FRINGE-EARED ORYX<BR> + <A href='#XXVII'><B>XXVII.</B></A> ACROSS THE SERENGETTI<BR> + <A href='#XXVIII'><B>XXVIII.</B></A> DOWN THE RIVER<BR> + <A href='#XXIX'><B>XXIX.</B></A> THE LESSER KUDU<BR> + <A href='#XXX'><B>XXX.</B></A> ADVENTURES BY THE WAY<BR> + <A href='#XXXI'><B>XXXI.</B></A> THE LOST SAFARI<BR> + <A href='#XXXII'><B>XXXII.</B></A> THE BABU<BR> + <BR> + <A href='#PART_VI'><B>PART VI.</B></A>—IN MASAILAND.<BR> + <A href='#XXXIII'><B>XXXIII.</B></A> OVER THE LIKIPIA + ESCARPMENT<BR> + <A href='#XXXIV'><B>XXXIV.</B></A> TO THE KEDONG<BR> + <A href='#XXXV'><B>XXXV.</B></A> THE TEANSPORT RIDER<BR> + <A href='#XXXVI'><B>XXXVI.</B></A> ACROSS THE THIRST<BR> + <A href='#XXXVII'><B>XXXVII.</B></A> THE SOUTHERN GUASO NYERO<BR> + <A href='#XXXVIII'><B>XXXVIII.</B></A> THE LOWER BENCHES<BR> + <A href='#XXXIX'><B>XXXIX.</B></A> NOTES ON THE MASAI<BR> + <A href='#XL'><B>XL.</B></A> THROUGH THE ENCHANTED FOREST<BR> + <A href='#XLI'><B>XLI.</B></A> NAIOKOTUKU<BR> + <A href='#XLII'><B>XLII.</B></A> SCOUTING IN THE ELEPHANT + FOREST<BR> + <A href='#XLIII'><B>XLIII.</B></A> THE TOPI CAMP<BR> + <A href='#XLIV'><B>XLIV.</B></A> THE UNKNOWN LAND<BR> + <A href='#XLV'><B>XLV.</B></A> THE ROAN<BR> + <A href='#XLVI'><B>XLVI.</B></A> THE GREATER KUDU<BR> + <A href='#XLVII'><B>XLVII.</B></A> THE MAGIC PORTALS CLOSE<BR> + <A href='#XLVIII'><B>XLVIII.</B></A> THE LAST TREK + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='PART_I' id="PART_I"></A> + + <H2>PART I.</H2><BR> + + <P>TO THE ISLAND OF WAR.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='I' id="I"></A> + + <H2>I.</H2> + + <P>THE OPEN DOOR.</P><BR> + + <P>There are many interesting hotels scattered about the world, + with a few of which I am acquainted and with a great many of + which I am not. Of course all hotels are interesting, from one + point of view or another. In fact, the surest way to fix an + audience's attention is to introduce your hero, or to display + your opening chorus in the lobby or along the façade of a + hotel. The life, the movement and colour, the drifting + individualities, the pretence, the bluff, the self-consciousness, + the independence, the <I>ennui</I>, the darting or lounging + servants, the very fact that of those before your eyes seven out + of ten are drawn from distant and scattered places, are + sufficient in themselves to invest the smallest hostelry with + glamour. It is not of this general interest that I would now + speak. Nor is it my intention at present to glance at the hotels + wherein "quaintness" is specialized, whether intentionally or no. + There are thousands of them; and all of them well worth the + discriminating traveller's attention. Concerning some of + them—as the old inns at Dives-sur-Mer and at Mont St. + Michel—whole books have been written. These depend for + their charm on a mingled gift of the unusual and the picturesque. + There are, as I have said, thousands of them; and of their + cataloguing, should one embark on so wide a sea, there could be + no end. And, again, I must for convenience exclude the altogether + charming places, like the Tour d'Argent of Paris, Simpson's of + the Strand,<A name='FNanchor_1_1' id="FNanchor_1_1"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_1_1'><SUP>[1]</SUP></A> and a dozen others that will + spring to every traveller's memory, where the personality of the + host, or of a chef, or even a waiter, is at once a magnet for the + attraction of visitors and a reward for their coming. These, too, + are many. In the interest to which I would draw attention, the + hotel as a building or as an institution has little part. It is + indeed a façade, a <I>mise en scène</I>before which + play the actors that attract our attention and applause. The set + may be as modernly elaborate as Peacock Alley of the Waldorf or + the templed lobby of the St. Francis; or it may present the + severe and Elizabethan simplicity of the stone-paved veranda of + the Norfolk at Nairobi—the matter is quite inessential to + the spectator. His appreciation is only slightly and indirectly + influenced by these things. Sunk in his arm-chair—of velvet + or of canvas—he puffs hard and silently at his cigar, + watching and listening as the pageant and the conversation eddy + by.</P> + + <P>Of such hotels I number that gaudy and polysyllabic hostelry + the Grand Hôtel du Louvre et de la Paix at Marseilles. I am + indifferent to the facts that it is situated on that fine + thoroughfare, the Rue de Cannebière, which the proud and + untravelled native devoutly believes to be the finest street in + the world; that it possesses a dining-room of gilded and painted + <I>repoussé</I> work so elaborate and wonderful that it + surely must be intended to represent a tinsmith's dream of + heaven; that its concierge is the most impressive human being on + earth except Ludwig von Kampf (whom I have never seen); that its + head waiter is sadder and more elderly and forgiving than any + other head waiter; and that its hushed and cathedral atmosphere + has been undisturbed through immemorial years. That is to be + expected; and elsewhere to be duplicated in greater or lesser + degree. Nor in the lofty courtyard, or the equally lofty halls + and reading-rooms, is there ever much bustle and movement. People + sit quietly, or move with circumspection. Servants glide. The + fall of a book or teaspoon, the sudden closing of a door, are + events to be remarked. Once a day, however, a huge gong sounds, + the glass doors of the inner courtyard are thrown open with a + flourish, and enters the huge bus fairly among those peacefully + sitting at the tables, horses' hoofs striking fire, long + lash-cracking volleys, wheels roaring amid hollow reverberations. + From the interior of this bus emerge people; and from the top, by + means of a strangely-constructed hooked ladder, are decanted + boxes, trunks, and appurtenances of various sorts. In these + people, and in these boxes, trunks, and appurtenances, are the + real interest of the Grand Hôtel du Louvre et de la Paix of + the marvellous Rue Cannebière of Marseilles.</P> + + <P>For at Marseilles land ships, many ships, from all the + scattered ends of the earth; and from Marseilles depart trains + for the North, where is home, or the way home for many peoples. + And since the arrival of ships is uncertain, and the departure of + trains fixed, it follows that everybody descends for a little or + greater period at the Grand Hôtel du Louvre et de la + Paix.</P> + + <P>They come lean and quiet and a little yellow from hard + climates, with the names of strange places on their lips, and + they speak familiarly of far-off things. Their clothes are + generally of ancient cut, and the wrinkles and camphor aroma of a + long packing away are yet discernible. Often they are still + wearing sun helmets or double terai hats, pending a descent on a + Piccadilly hatter two days hence. They move slowly and languidly; + the ordinary piercing and dominant English enunciation has fallen + to modulation; their eyes, while observant and alert, look tired. + It is as though the far countries have sucked something from the + pith of them in exchange for great experiences that nevertheless + seem of little value; as though these men, having met at last + face to face the ultimate of what the earth has to offer in the + way of danger, hardship, difficulty, and the things that try + men's souls, having unexpectedly found them all to fall short of + both the importance and the final significance with which + human-kind has always invested them, were now just a little at a + loss. Therefore they stretch their long, lean frames in the + wicker chairs, they sip the long drinks at their elbows, puff + slowly at their long, lean cheroots, and talk spasmodically in + short sentences.</P> + + <P>Of quite a different type are those going out—young + fellows full of northern health and energy, full of the eagerness + of anticipation, full of romance skilfully concealed, + self-certain, authoritative, clear voiced. Their exit from the + bus is followed by a rain of hold-alls, bags, new tin boxes, new + gun cases, all lettered freshly—an enormous kit doomed to + diminution. They overflow the place, ebb towards their respective + rooms; return scrubbed and ruddy, correctly clad, correctly + unconscious of everybody else; sink into more wicker chairs. The + quiet brown and yellow men continue to puff at their cheroots, + quite eclipsed. After a time one of them picks up his battered + old sun helmet and goes out into the street. The eyes of the + newcomers follow him. They fall silent; and their eyes, under + cover of pulled moustache, furtively glance towards the lean + man's companions. Then on that office falls a great silence, + broken only by the occasional rare remarks of the quiet men with + the cheroots. The youngsters are listening with all their ears, + though from their appearance no one would suspect that fact. Not + a syllable escapes them. These quiet men have been there; they + have seen with their own eyes; their lightest word is saturated + with the mystery and romance of the unknown. Their easy, + matter-of-fact, everyday knowledge is richly wonderful. It would + seem natural for these young-young men to question these + old-young men of that which they desire so ardently to know; but + that isn't done, you know. So they sit tight, and pretend they + are not listening, and feast their ears on the wonderful + syllables—Ankobar, Kabul, Peshawur, Annam, Nyassaland, + Kerman, Serengetti, Tanganika, and many others. On these + beautiful syllables must their imaginations feed, for that which + is told is as nothing at all. Adventure there is none, romance + there is none, mention of high emprise there is none. Adventure, + romance, high emprise have to these men somehow lost their + importance. Perhaps such things have been to them too + common—as well mention the morning egg. Perhaps they have + found that there is no genuine adventure, no real romance except + over the edge of the world where the rainbow stoops.</P> + + <P>The bus rattles in and rattles out again. It takes the + fresh-faced young men down past the inner harbour to where lie + the tall ships waiting. They and their cargo of exuberance, of + hope, of energy, of thirst for the bubble adventure, the rainbow + romance, sail away to where these wares have a market. And the + quiet men glide away to the North. Their wares have been + marketed. The sleepy, fierce, passionate, sunny lands have taken + all they had to bring. And have given in exchange? Indifference, + ill-health, a profound realization that the length of days are as + nothing at all; a supreme agnosticism as to the ultimate value of + anything that a single man can do, a sublime faith that it must + be done, the power to concentrate, patience illimitable; contempt + for danger, disregard of death, the intention to live; a final, + weary estimate of the fact that mere things are as unimportant + here as there, no matter how quaintly or fantastically they are + dressed or named, and a corresponding emptiness of anticipation + for the future—these items are only a random few of the + price given by the ancient lands for that which the northern + races bring to them. What other alchemical changes have been + wrought only these lean and weary men could know—if they + dared look so far within themselves. And even if they dared, they + would not tell.</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_1_1' id= + "Footnote_1_1"></A><A href='#FNanchor_1_1'>[1]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>In old days before the "improvements."</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='II' id="II"></A> + + <H2>II.</H2> + + <P>THE FAREWELL.</P><BR> + + <P>We boarded ship, filled with a great, and what seemed to us, + an unappeasable curiosity as to what we were going to see. It was + not a very big ship, in spite of the grandiloquent descriptions + in the advertisements, or the lithograph wherein she cut grandly + and evenly through huge waves to the manifest discomfiture of + infinitesimal sailing craft bobbing alongside. She was manned + entirely by Germans. The room stewards waited at table, cleaned + the public saloons, kept the library, rustled the baggage, and + played in the band. That is why we took our music between meals. + Our staterooms were very tiny indeed. Each was provided with an + electric fan; a totally inadequate and rather aggravating + electric fan once we had entered the Red Sea. Just at this moment + we paid it little attention, for we were still in full enjoyment + of sunny France, where, in our own experience, it had rained two + months steadily. Indeed, at this moment it was raining, raining a + steady, cold, sodden drizzle that had not even the grace to pick + out the surface of the harbour in the jolly dancing staccato that + goes far to lend attraction to a genuinely earnest rainstorm.</P> + + <P>Down the long quay splashed cabs and omnibuses, their drivers + glistening in wet capes, to discharge under the open shed at the + end various hasty individuals who marshalled long lines of + porters with astonishing impedimenta and drove them up the + gang-plank. A half-dozen roughs lounged aimlessly. A little bent + old woman with a shawl over her head searched here and there. + Occasionally she would find a twisted splinter of wood torn from + the piles by a hawser or gouged from the planking by heavy + freight, or kicked from the floor by the hoofs of horses. This + she deposited carefully in a small covered market basket. She was + entirely intent on this minute and rather pathetic task, quite + unattending the greatness of the ship, or the many people the + great hulk swallowed or spat forth.</P> + + <P>Near us against the rail leaned a dark-haired young Englishman + whom later every man on that many-nationed ship came to recognize + and to avoid as an insufferable bore. Now, however, the angel of + good inspiration stooped to him. He tossed a copper two-sou piece + down to the bent old woman. She heard the clink of the fall, and + looked up bewildered. One of the waterside roughs slouched + forward. The Englishman shouted a warning and a threat, + indicating in pantomime for whom the coin was intended. To our + surprise that evil-looking wharf rat smiled and waved his hand + reassuringly, then took the old woman by the arm to show her + where the coin had fallen. She hobbled to it with a haste + eloquent of the horrible Marseillaise poverty-stricken alleys, + picked it up joyously, turned—and with a delightful grace + kissed her finger-tips towards the ship.</P> + + <P>Apparently we all of us had a few remaining French coins; and + certainly we were all grateful to the young Englishman for his + happy thought. The sous descended as fast as the woman could get + to where they fell. So numerous were they that she had no time to + express her gratitude except in broken snatches or gesture, in + interrupted attitudes of the most complete thanksgiving. The day + of miracles for her had come; and from the humble poverty that + valued tiny and infrequent splinters of wood she had suddenly + come into great wealth. Everybody was laughing, but in a very + kindly sort of way it seemed to me; and the very wharf rats and + gamins, wolfish and fierce in their everyday life of the + water-front, seemed to take a genuine pleasure in pointing out to + her the resting-place of those her dim old eyes had not seen. + Silver pieces followed. These were too wonderful. She grew more + and more excited, until several of the passengers leaning over + the rail began to murmur warningly, fearing harm. After picking + up each of these silver pieces, she bowed and gestured very + gracefully, waving both hands outward, lifting eyes and hands to + heaven, kissing her fingers, trying by every means in her power + to express the dazzling wonder and joy that this unexpected + marvel was bringing her. When she had done all these things many + times, she hugged herself ecstatically. A very well-dressed and + prosperous-looking Frenchman standing near seemed to be a little + afraid she might hug him. His fear had, perhaps, some grounds, + for she shook hands with everybody all around, and showed them + her wealth in her kerchief, explaining eagerly, the tears running + down her face.</P> + + <P>Now the gang-plank was drawn aboard, and the band struck up + the usual lively air. At the first notes the old woman executed a + few feeble little jig steps in sheer exuberance. Then the + solemnity of the situation sobered her. Her great, wealthy, + powerful, kind friends were departing on their long voyage over + mysterious seas. Again and again, very earnestly, she repeated + the graceful, slow pantomime—the wave of the arms outward, + the eyes raised to heaven, the hands clasped finally over her + head. As the brown strip of water silently widened between us it + was strangely like a stage scene—the roofed sheds of the + quay, the motionless groups, the central figure of the old woman + depicting emotion.</P> + + <P>Suddenly she dropped her hands and hobbled away at a great + rate, disappearing finally into the maze of the street beyond. + Concluding that she had decided to get quickly home with her + great treasure, we commended her discretion and gave our + attention to other things.</P> + + <P>The drizzle fell uninterruptedly. We had edged sidewise the + requisite distance, and were now gathering headway in our long + voyage. The quail was beginning to recede and to diminish. Back + from the street hastened the figure of the little old woman. She + carried a large white cloth, of which she had evidently been in + quest. This she unfolded and waved vigorously with both hands. + Until we had passed quite from sight she stood there signalling + her farewell. Long after we were beyond distinguishing her figure + we could catch the flutter of white. Thus that ship's company, + embarking each on his Great Adventure, far from home and friends, + received their farewell, a very genuine farewell, from one poor + old woman. B. ventured the opinion that it was the best thing we + had bought with our French money.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='III' id="III"></A> + + <H2>III.</H2> + + <P>PORT SAID.</P><BR> + + <P>The time of times to approach Port Said is just at the fall of + dusk. Then the sea lies in opalescent patches, and the low shores + fade away into the gathering night. The slanting masts and yards + of the dhows silhouette against a sky of the deepest translucent + green; and the heroic statue of De Lesseps, standing for ever at + the Gateway he opened, points always to the mysterious East.</P> + + <P>The rhythmical, accustomed chug of the engines had fallen to + quarter speed, leaving an uncanny stillness throughout the ship. + Silently we slipped between the long piers, drew up on the + waterside town, seized the buoy, and came to rest. All around us + lay other ships of all sizes, motionless on the inky water. The + reflections from their lights seemed to be thrust into the + depths, like stilts; and the few lights from the town reflected + shiveringly across. Along the water-front all was dark and + silent. We caught the loom of buildings; and behind them a dull + glow as from a fire, and guessed tall minarets, and heard the + rising and falling of chanting. Numerous small boats hovered + near, floating in and out of the patches of light we ourselves + cast, waiting for permission to swarm at the gang-plank for our + patronage.</P> + + <P>We went ashore, passed through a wicket gate, and across the + dark buildings to the heart of the town, whence came the dull + glow and the sounds of people.</P> + + <P>Here were two streets running across one another, both + brilliantly lighted, both thronged, both lined with little shops. + In the latter one could buy anything, in any language, with any + money. In them we saw cheap straw hats made in Germany hung side + by side with gorgeous and beautiful stuffs from the Orient; + shoddy European garments and Eastern jewels; cheap celluloid + combs and curious embroideries. The crowd of passers-by in the + streets were compounded in the same curiously mixed fashion; a + few Europeans, generally in white, and then a variety of Arabs, + Egyptians, Somalis, Berbers, East Indians and the like, each in + his own gaudy or graceful costume. It speaks well for the + accuracy of feeling, anyway, of our various "Midways," "Pikes," + and the like of our world's expositions that the streets of Port + Said looked like Midways raised to the nth power. Along them we + sauntered with a pleasing feeling of self-importance. On all + sides we were gently and humbly besought—by the + shopkeepers, by the sidewalk vendors, by would-be guides, by + fortune-tellers, by jugglers, by magicians; all soft-voiced and + respectful; all yielding as water to rebuff, but as quick as + water to glide back again. The vendors were of the colours of the + rainbow, and were heavily hung with long necklaces of coral or + amber, with scarves, with strings of silver coins, with sequinned + veils and silks, girt with many dirks and knives, furnished out + in concealed pockets with scarabs, bracelets, sandalwood boxes or + anything else under the broad canopy of heaven one might or might + not desire. Their voices were soft and pleasing, their eyes had + the beseeching quality of a good dog's, their anxious and + deprecating faces were ready at the slightest encouragement to + break out into the friendliest and most intimate of smiles. + Wherever we went we were accompanied by a retinue straight out of + the Arabian Nights, patiently awaiting the moment when we should + tire; should seek out the table of a sidewalk café; and + should, in our relaxed mood, be ready to unbend to our royal + purchases.</P> + + <P>At that moment we were too much interested in the town itself. + The tiny shops, with their smiling and insinuating Oriental + keepers, were fascinating in their displays of carved woods, + jewellery, perfumes, silks, tapestries, silversmiths' work, + ostrich feathers, and the like. To either side the main street + lay long narrow dark alleys, in which flared single lights, + across which flitted mysterious long-robed figures, from which + floated stray snatches of music either palpitatingly barbaric or + ridiculously modern. There the authority of the straight, + soldierly-looking Soudanese policemen ceased, and it was not safe + to wander unarmed or alone.</P> + + <P>Besides these motley variegations of the East and West, the + main feature of the town was the street car. It was an open-air + structure of spacious dimensions, as though benches and a canopy + had been erected rather haphazard on a small dancing platform. + The track is absurdly narrow in gauge; and as a consequence the + edifice swayed and swung from side to side. A single mule was + attached to it loosely by about ten feet of rope. It was driven + by a gaudy ragamuffin in a turban. Various other gaudy + ragamuffins lounged largely and picturesquely on the widely + spaced benches. Whence it came or whither it went I do not know. + Its orbit swung into the main street, turned a corner, and + disappeared. Apparently Europeans did not patronize this + picturesque wreck, but drove elegantly but mysteriously in small + open cabs conducted by totally incongruous turbaned drivers.</P> + + <P>We ended finally at an imposing corner hotel, where we dined + by an open window just above the level of the street. A dozen + upturned faces besought us silently during the meal. At a glance + of even the mildest interest a dozen long brown arms thrust the + spoils of the East upon our consideration. With us sat a large + benign Swedish professor whose erudition was encyclopaedic, but + whose kindly humanity was greater. Uttering deep, cavernous + chuckles, the professor bargained. A red coral necklace for the + moment was the matter of interest. The professor inspected it + carefully, and handed it back.</P> + + <P>"I doubt if id iss coral," said he simply.</P> + + <P>The present owner of the beads went frantic with rapid-fire + proof and vociferation. With the swiftness and precision of much + repetition he fished out a match, struck it, applied the flame to + the alleged coral, and blew out the match; cast the necklace on + the pavement, produced mysteriously a small hammer, and with it + proceeded frantically to pound the beads. Evidently he was + accustomed to being doubted, and carried his materials for proof + around with him. Then, in one motion, the hammer disappeared, the + beads were snatched up, and again offered, unharmed, for + inspection.</P> + + <P>"Are those good tests for genuineness?" we asked the + professor, aside.</P> + + <P>"As to that," he replied regretfully, "I do not know. I know + of coral only that is the hard calcareous skeleton of the marine + coelenterate polyps; and that this red coral iss called of a + sclerobasic group; and other facts of the kind; but I do not know + if it iss supposed to resist impact and heat. Possibly," he ended + shrewdly, "it is the common imitation which does <I>not</I> + resist impact and heat. At any rate they are pretty. How much?" + he demanded of the vendor, a bright-eyed Egyptian waiting + patiently until our conference should cease.</P> + + <P>"Twenty shillings," he replied promptly.</P> + + <P>The professor shook with one of his cavernous chuckles.</P> + + <P>"Too much," he observed, and handed the necklace back through + the window.</P> + + <P>The Egyptian would by no means receive it.</P> + + <P>"Keep! keep!" he implored, thrusting the mass of red upon the + professor with both hands. "How much you give?"</P> + + <P>"One shilling," announced the professor firmly.</P> + + <P>The coral necklace lay on the edge of the table throughout + most of our leisurely meal. The vendor argued, pleaded, gave it + up, disappeared in the crowd, returned dramatically after an + interval. The professor ate calmly, chuckled much, and from time + to time repeated firmly the words, "One shilling." Finally, at + the cheese, he reached out, swept the coral into his pocket, and + laid down two shillings. The Egyptian deftly gathered the coin, + smiled cheerfully, and produced a glittering veil, in which he + tried in vain to enlist Billy's interest.</P> + + <P>For coffee and cigars we moved to the terrace outside. Here an + orchestra played, the peoples of many nations sat at little + tables, the peddlers, fakirs, jugglers, and fortune-tellers + swarmed. A half-dozen postal cards seemed sufficient to set a + small boy up in trade, and to imbue him with all the importance + and insistence of a merchant with jewels. Other ten-year-old + ragamuffins tried to call our attention to some sort of + sleight-of-hand with poor downy little chickens. Grave, turbaned, + and polite Indians squatted cross-legged at our feet, begging to + give us a look into the future by means of the only genuine + hall-marked Yogi-ism; a troupe of acrobats went energetically and + hopefully through quite a meritorious performance a few feet + away; a deftly triumphant juggler did very easily, and directly + beneath our watchful eyes, some really wonderful tricks. A + butterfly-gorgeous swarm of insinuating smiling peddlers of small + things dangled and spread their wares where they thought + themselves most sure of attention. Beyond our own little group we + saw slowly passing in the lighted street outside the portico the + variegated and picturesque loungers. Across the way a phonograph + bawled; our stringed orchestra played "The Dollar Princess;" from + somewhere over in the dark and mysterious alleyways came the + regular beating of a tom-tom. The magnificent and picturesque + town car with its gaudy ragamuffins swayed by in train of its + diminutive mule.</P> + + <P>Suddenly our persistent and amusing <I>entourage</I> vanished + in all directions. Standing idly at the portico was a very + straight, black Soudanese. On his head was the usual red fez; his + clothing was of trim khaki; his knees and feet were bare, with + blue puttees between; and around his middle was drawn close and + smooth a blood-red sash at least a foot and a half in breadth. He + made a fine upstanding Egyptian figure, and was armed with pride, + a short sheathed club, and a great scorn. No word spoke he, nor + command; but merely jerked a thumb towards the darkness, and into + the darkness our many-hued horde melted away. We were left + feeling rather lonesome!</P> + + <P>Near midnight we sauntered down the street to the quay, whence + we were rowed to the ship by another turbaned, long-robed figure, + who sweetly begged just a copper or so "for poor boatman."</P> + + <P>We found the ship in the process of coaling, every porthole + and doorway closed, and heavy canvas hung to protect as far as + possible the clean decks. Two barges were moored alongside. Two + blazing braziers lighted them with weird red and flickering + flames. In their depths, cast in black and red shadows, toiled + half-guessed figures; from their depths, mounting a single steep + plank, came an unbroken procession of natives, naked save for a + wisp of cloth around the loins. They trod closely on each other's + heels, carrying each his basket atop his head or on one shoulder, + mounted a gang-plank, discharged their loads into the side of the + ship, and descended again to the depths by way of another plank. + The lights flickered across their dark faces, their gleaming + teeth and eyes. Somehow the work demanded a heap of screeching, + shouting, and gesticulation; but somehow also it went forward + rapidly. Dozens of unattached natives lounged about the gunwales + with apparently nothing to do but to look picturesque. Shore + boats moved into the narrow circle of light, drifted to our + gangway, and discharged huge crates of vegetables, sacks of + unknown stuffs, and returning passengers. A vigilant police boat + hovered near to settle disputes, generally with the blade of an + oar. For a long time we leaned over the rail watching them, and + the various reflected lights in the water, and the very clear, + unwavering stars. Then, the coaling finished, and the portholes + once more opened, we turned in.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='IV' id="IV"></A> + + <H2>IV.</H2> + + <P>SUEZ.</P><BR> + + <P>Some time during the night we must have started, but so gently + had we slid along it fractional speed that until I raised my head + and looked out I had not realized the fact. I saw a high + sandbank. This glided monotonously by until I grew tired of + looking at it and got up.</P> + + <P>After breakfast, however, I found that the sandbank had + various attractions all of its own. Three camels laden with stone + and in convoy of white-clad figures shuffled down the slope at a + picturesque angle. Two cowled women in black, veiled to the eyes + in gauze heavily sewn with sequins, barefooted, with massive + silver anklets, watched us pass. Hindu workmen in turban and + loin-cloth furnished a picturesque note, but did not seem to be + injuring themselves by over-exertion. Naked small boys raced us + for a short distance. The banks glided by very slowly and very + evenly, the wash sucked after us like water in a slough after a + duck boat, and the sky above the yellow sand looked extremely + blue.</P> + + <P>At short and regular intervals, half-way up the miniature + sandhills, heavy piles or snubbing-posts had been planted. For + these we at first could guess no reason. Soon, however, we had to + pass another ship; and then we saw that one of us must tie up to + avoid being drawn irresistibly by suction into collision with the + other. The craft sidled by, separated by only a few feet, so that + we could look across to each other's decks and exchange + greetings. As the day grew this interest grew likewise. Dredgers + in the canal; rusty tramps flying unfamiliar flags of strange + tiny countries; big freighters, often with Greek or Turkish + characters on their sterns; small dirty steamers of suspicious + business; passenger ships like our own, returning from the + tropics, with white-clad, languid figures reclining in canvas + chairs; gunboats of this or that nation bound on mysterious + affairs; once a P. & O. converted into a troopship, from + whose every available porthole, hatch, deck, and shroud laughing, + brown, English faces shouted chaff at our German decks—all + these either tied up for us, or were tied up for by us. The only + craft that received no consideration on our part were the various + picturesque Arab dhows, with their single masts and the long + yards slanting across them. Since these were very small, our + suction dragged at them cruelly. As a usual thing four vociferous + figures clung desperately to a rope passed around one of the + snubbing-posts ashore, while an old man shrieked syllables at + them from the dhow itself. As they never by any chance thought of + mooring her both stem and stern, the dhow generally changed ends + rapidly, shipping considerable water in the process. It must be + very trying to get so excited in a hot climate.</P> + + <P>The high sandbanks of the early part of the day soon dropped + lower to afford us a wider view. In its broad, general features + the country was, quite simply, the desert of Arizona over again. + There were the same high, distant, and brittle-looking mountains, + fragile and pearly; the same low, broken half-distances; the same + wide sweeps; the same wonderful changing effects of light, + colour, shadow, and mirage; the same occasional strips of green + marking the watercourses and oases. As to smaller detail, we saw + many interesting divergences. In the foreground constantly + recurred the Bedouin brush shelters, each with its picturesque + figure or so in flowing robes, and its grumpy camels. Twice we + saw travelling caravans, exactly like the Bible pictures. At one + place a single burnoused Arab, leaning on his elbows, reclined + full length on the sky-line of a clean-cut sandhill. Glittering + in the mirage, half-guessed, half-seen, we made out distant + little white towns with slender palm trees. At places the water + from the canal had overflowed wide tracts of country. Here, along + the shore, we saw thousands of the water-fowl already familiar to + us, as well as such strangers as gaudy kingfishers, ibises, and + rosy flamingoes.</P> + + <P>The canal itself seemed to be in a continual state of repair. + Dredgers were everywhere; some of the ordinary shovel type, + others working by suction, and discharging far inland by means of + weird huge pipes that apparently meandered at will over the face + of nature. The control stations were beautifully French and neat, + painted yellow, each with its gorgeous bougainvilleas in flower, + its square-rigged signal masts, its brightly painted extra buoys + standing in a row, its wharf—and its impassive Arab + fishermen thereon. We reclined in our canvas chairs, had lemon + squashes brought to us, and watched the entertainment steadily + and slowly unrolled before us.</P> + + <P>We reached the end of the canal about three o'clock of the + afternoon, and dropped anchor off the low-lying shores. Our + binoculars showed us white houses in apparently single rank along + a far-reaching narrow sand spit, with sparse trees and a railroad + line. That was the town of Suez, and seemed so little interesting + that we were not particularly sorry that we could not go ashore. + Far in the distance were mountains; and the water all about us + was the light, clear green of the sky at sunset.</P> + + <P>Innumerable dhows and row-boats swarmed down, filled with + eager salesmen of curios and ostrich plumes. They had not much + time in which to bargain, so they made it up in rapid-fire + vociferation. One very tall and dignified Arab had as sailor of + his craft the most extraordinary creature, just above the lower + limit of the human race. He was of a dull coal black, without a + single high light on him anywhere, as though he had been + sand-papered, had prominent teeth, like those of a baboon, in a + wrinkled, wizened monkey face, across which were three tattooed + bands, and possessed a little, long-armed, spare figure, bent and + wiry. He clambered up and down his mast, fetching things at his + master's behest; leapt nonchalantly for our rail or his own spar, + as the case might be, across the staggering abyss; clung so well + with his toes that he might almost have been classified with the + quadrumana; and between times squatted humped over on the rail, + watching us with bright, elfish, alien eyes.</P> + + <P>At last the big German sailors bundled the whole variegated + horde overside. It was time to go, and our anchor chain was + already rumbling in the hawse pipes. They tumbled hastily into + their boats; and at once swarmed up their masts, whence they + feverishly continued their interrupted bargaining. In fact, so + fully embarked on the tides of commerce were they, that they + failed to notice the tides of nature widening between us. One old + man, in especial, at the very top of his mast, jerked hither and + thither by the sea, continued imploringly to offer an utterly + ridiculous carved wooden camel long after it was impossible to + have completed the transaction should anybody have been + moonstruck enough to have desired it. Our ship's prow swung; and + just at sunset, as the lights of Suez were twinkling out one by + one, we headed down the Red Sea.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='V' id="V"></A> + + <H2>V.</H2> + + <P>THE RED SEA.</P><BR> + + <P>Suez is indeed the gateway to the East. In the Mediterranean + often the sea is rough, the winds cold, passengers are not yet + acquainted, and hug the saloons or the leeward side of the deck. + Once through the canal and all is changed by magic. The air is + hot and languid; the ship's company down to the very scullions + appear in immaculate white; the saloon chairs and transoms even + are put in white coverings; electric fans hum everywhere; the run + on lemon squashes begins; and many quaint and curious customs of + the tropics obtain.</P> + + <P>For example: it is etiquette that before eight o'clock one may + wander the decks at will in one's pyjamas, converse affably with + fair ladies in pigtail and kimono, and be not abashed. But on the + stroke of eight bells it is also etiquette to disappear very + promptly and to array one's self for the day; and it is very + improper indeed to see or be seen after that hour in the rather + extreme <I>negligée</I> of the early morning. Also it + becomes the universal custom, or perhaps I should say the + necessity, to slumber for an hour after the noon meal. Certainly + sleep descending on the tropical traveller is armed with a + bludgeon. Passengers, crew, steerage, "deck," animal, and bird + fall down then in an enchantment. I have often wondered who + navigates the ship during that sacred hour, or, indeed, if + anybody navigates it at all. Perhaps that time is sacred to the + genii of the old East, who close all prying mortal eyes, but in + return lend a guiding hand to the most pressing of mortal + affairs. The deck of the ship is a curious sight between the + hours of half-past one and three. The tropical siesta requires no + couching of the form. You sit down in your chair, with a + book—you fade slowly into a deep, restful slumber. And yet + it is a slumber wherein certain small pleasant things persist + from the world outside. You remain dimly conscious of the + rhythmic throbbing of the engines, of the beat of soft, warm air + on your cheek.</P> + + <P>At three o'clock or thereabout you rise as gently back to + life, and sit erect in your chair without a stretch or a yawn in + your whole anatomy. Then is the one time of day for a display of + energy—if you have any to display. Ship games, + walks—fairly brisk—explorations to the forecastle, a + watch for flying fish or Arab dhows, anything until tea-time. + Then the glowing sunset; the opalescent sea, and the soft + afterglow of the sky—and the bugle summoning you to dress. + That is a mean job. Nothing could possibly swelter worse than the + tiny cabin. The electric fan is an aggravation. You reappear in + your fresh "whites" somewhat warm and flustered in both mind and + body. A turn around the deck cools you off; and dinner restores + your equanimity—dinner with the soft, warm tropic air + breathing through all the wide-open ports; the electric fans + drumming busily; the men all in clean white; the ladies, the very + few precious ladies, in soft, low gowns. After dinner the deck, + as near cool as it will be, and heads bare to the breeze of our + progress, and glowing cigars. At ten or eleven o'clock the groups + begin to break up, the canvas chairs to empty. Soon reappears a + pyjamaed figure followed by a steward carrying a mattress. This + is spread, under its owner's direction, in a dark corner forward. + With a sigh you in your turn plunge down into the sweltering + inferno of your cabin, only to reappear likewise with a steward + and a mattress. The latter, if you are wise, you spread where the + wind of the ship's going will be full upon you. It is a strong + wind and blows upon you heavily, so that the sleeves and legs of + your pyjamas flop, but it is a soft, warm wind, and beats you as + with muffled fingers. In no temperate clime can you ever enjoy + this peculiar effect of a strong breeze on your naked skin + without even the faintest surface chilly sensation. So habituated + has one become to feeling cooler in a draught that the absence of + chill lends the night an unaccustomedness, the more weird in that + it is unanalyzed, so that one feels definitely that one is in a + strange, far country. This is intensified by the fact that in + these latitudes the moon, the great, glorious, calm tropical + moon, is directly overhead—follows the centre line of the + zenith—instead of being, as with us in our temperate zone, + always more or less declined to the horizon. This, too, lends the + night an exotic quality, the more effective in that at first the + reason for it is not apprehended.</P> + + <P>A night in the tropics is always more or less broken. One + awakens, and sleeps again. Motionless white-clad figures, + cigarettes glowing, are lounging against the rail looking out + over a molten sea. The moonlight lies in patterns across the + deck, shivering slightly under the throb of the engines, or + occasionally swaying slowly forward or slowly back as the ship's + course changes, but otherwise motionless, for here the sea is + always calm. You raise your head, look about, sprawl in a new + position on your mattress, fall asleep. On one of these occasions + you find unexpectedly that the velvet-gray night has become + steel-gray dawn, and that the kindly old quartermaster is bending + over you. Sleepily, very sleepily, you stagger to your feet and + collapse into the nearest chair. Then to the swish of water, as + the sailors sluice the decks all around and under you, you fall + into a really deep sleep.</P> + + <P>At six o'clock this is broken by chota-hazri, another tropical + institution, consisting merely of clear tea and biscuits. I never + could get to care for it, but nowhere in the tropics could I head + it off. No matter how tired I was or how dead sleepy, I had to + receive that confounded chota-hazri. Throwing things at the + native who brought it did no good at all. He merely dodged. + Admonition did no good, nor prohibition in strong terms. I was + but one white man of the whole white race; and I had no right to + possess idiosyncrasies running counter to dastur, the custom. + However, as the early hours are profitable hours in the tropics, + it did not drive me to homicide.</P> + + <P>The ship's company now developed. Our two prize members, + fortunately for us, sat at our table. The first was the Swedish + professor aforementioned. He was large, benign, paternal, broad + in mind, thoroughly human and beloved, and yet profoundly + erudite. He was our iconoclast in the way of food; for he + performed small but illuminating dissections on his plate, and + announced triumphantly results that were not a bit in accordance + with the menu. A single bone was sufficient to take the + pretension out of any fish. Our other particular friend was C., + with whom later we travelled in the interior of Africa. C. is a + very celebrated hunter and explorer, an old Africander, his face + seamed and tanned by many years in a hard climate. For several + days we did not recognize him, although he sat fairly alongside, + but put him down as a shy man, and let it go at that. He never + stayed for the long <I>table d'hôte</I> dinners, but fell + upon the first solid course and made a complete meal from that. + When he had quite finished eating all he could, he drank all he + could; then he departed from the table, and took up a remote and + inaccessible position in the corner of the smoking-room. He was + engaged in growing the beard he customarily wore in the + jungle—a most fierce outstanding Mohammedan-looking beard + that terrified the intrusive into submission. And yet Bwana C. + possesses the kindest blue eyes in the world, full of quiet + patience, great understanding, and infinite gentleness. His + manner was abrupt and uncompromising, but he would do anything in + the world for one who stood in need of him. From women he fled; + yet Billy won him with infinite patience, and in the event they + became the closest of friends. Withal he possessed a pair of the + most powerful shoulders I have ever seen on a man of his frame; + and in the depths of his mild blue eyes flickered a flame of + resolution that I could well imagine flaring up to something + formidable. Slow to make friends, but staunch and loyal; gentle + and forbearing, but fierce and implacable in action; at once + loved and most terribly feared; shy as a wild animal, but + straightforward and undeviating in his human relations; most + remarkably quiet and unassuming, but with tremendous vital force + in his deep eyes and forward-thrust jaw; informed with the widest + and most understanding humanity, but unforgiving of evildoers; + and with the most direct and absolute courage, Bwana C. was to me + the most interesting man I met in Africa, and became the best of + my friends.</P> + + <P>The only other man at our table happened to be, for our sins, + the young Englishman mentioned as throwing the first coin to the + old woman on the pier at Marseilles. We will call him Brown, and, + because he represents a type, he is worth looking upon for a + moment.</P> + + <P>He was of the super-enthusiastic sort; bubbling over with + vitality, in and out of everything; bounding up at odd and + languid moments. To an extraordinary extent he was afflicted with + the spiritual blindness of his class. Quite genuinely, quite + seriously, he was unconscious of the human significance of beings + and institutions belonging to a foreign country or even to a + class other than his own. His own kind he treated as complete and + understandable human creatures. All others were merely objective. + As we, to a certain extent, happened to fall in the former + category, he was as pleasant to us as possible—that is, he + was pleasant to us in his way, but had not insight enough to + guess at how to be pleasant to us in our way. But as soon as he + got out of his own class, or what he conceived to be such, he + considered all people as "outsiders." He did not credit them with + prejudices to rub, with feelings to hurt, indeed hardly with ears + to overhear. Provided his subject was an "outsider," he had not + the slightest hesitancy in saying exactly what he thought about + any one, anywhere, always in his high clear English voice, no + matter what the time or occasion. As a natural corollary he + always rebuffed beggars and the like brutally, and was always + quite sublimely doing little things that thoroughly shocked our + sense of the other fellow's rights as a human being. In all this + he did not mean to be cruel or inconsiderate. It was just the way + he was built; and it never entered his head that "such people" + had ears and brains.</P> + + <P>In the rest of the ship's company were a dozen or so other + Englishmen of the upper classes, either army men on shooting + trips, or youths going out with some idea of settling in the + country. They were a clean-built, pleasant lot; good people to + know anywhere, but of no unusual interest. It was only when one + went abroad into the other nations that inscribable human + interest could be found.</P> + + <P>There was the Greek, Scutari, and his bride, a languorous + rather opulent beauty, with large dark eyes for all men, and a + luxurious manner of lying back and fanning herself. She talked, + soft-voiced, in half a dozen languages, changing from one to the + other without a break in either her fluency or her thought. Her + little lithe, active husband sat around and adored her. He was + apparently a very able citizen indeed, for he was going out to + take charge of the construction work on a German railway. To have + filched so important a job from the Germans themselves shows that + he must have had ability. With them were a middle-aged Holland + couple, engaged conscientiously in travelling over the globe. + They had been everywhere—the two American hemispheres, from + one Arctic Sea to another, Siberia, China, the Malay Archipelago, + this, that, and the other odd corner of the world. Always they + sat placidly side by side, either in the saloon or on deck, + smiling benignly, and conversing in spaced, comfortable syllables + with everybody who happened along. Mrs. Breemen worked + industriously on some kind of feminine gear, and explained to all + and sundry that she travelled "to see de sceenery wid my + hoos-band."</P> + + <P>Also in this group was a small wiry German doctor, who had + lived for many years in the far interior of Africa, and was now + returning after his vacation. He was a little man, bright-eyed + and keen, with a clear complexion and hard flesh, in striking and + agreeable contrast to most of his compatriots. The latter were + trying to drink all the beer on the ship; but as she had been + stocked for an eighty-day voyage, of which this was but the + second week, they were not making noticeable headway. However, + they did not seem to be easily discouraged. The Herr Doktor was + most polite and attentive, but as we did not talk German nor much + Swahili, and he had neither English nor much French, we had our + difficulties. I have heard Billy in talking to him scatter + fragments of these four languages through a single sentence!</P> + + <P>For several days we drifted down a warm flat sea. Then one + morning we came on deck to find ourselves close aboard a number + of volcanic islands. They were composed entirely of red and dark + purple lava blocks, rugged, quite without vegetation save for + occasional patches of stringy green in a gully; and uninhabited + except for a lighthouse on one, and a fishing shanty near the + shores of another. The high mournful mountains, with their dark + shadows, seemed to brood over hot desolation. The rusted and + battered stern of a wrecked steamer stuck up at an acute angle + from the surges. Shortly after we picked up the shores of + Arabia.</P> + + <P>Note the advantages of a half ignorance. From early childhood + we had thought of Arabia as the "burning desert"—flat, of + course—and of the Red Sea as bordered by "shifting sands" + alone. If we had known the truth—if we had not been half + ignorant—we would have missed the profound surprise of + discovering that in reality the Red Sea is bordered by high and + rugged mountains, leaving just space enough between themselves + and the shore for a sloping plain on which our glasses could make + out occasional palms. Perhaps the "shifting sands of the burning + desert" lie somewhere beyond; but somebody might have mentioned + these great mountains! After examining them attentively we had to + confess that if this sort of thing continued farther north the + children of Israel must have had a very hard time of it. Mocha + shone white, glittering, and low, with the red and white spire of + a mosque rising brilliantly above it.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='VI' id="VI"></A> + + <H2>VI.</H2> + + <P>ADEN.</P><BR> + + <P>It was cooler; and for a change we had turned into our bunks, + when B. pounded on our stateroom door.</P> + + <P>"In the name of the Eternal East," said he, "come on + deck!"</P> + + <P>We slipped on kimonos, and joined the row of scantily draped + and interested figures along the rail.</P> + + <P>The ship lay quite still on a perfect sea of moonlight, + bordered by a low flat distant shore on one side, and nearer + mountains on the other. A strong flare, centred from two ship + reflectors overside, made a focus of illumination that subdued, + but could not quench, the soft moonlight with which all outside + was silvered. A dozen boats, striving against a current or + clinging as best they could to the ship's side, glided into the + light and became real and solid; or dropped back into the ghostly + white unsubstantiality of the moon. They were long, narrow boats, + with small flush decks fore and aft. We looked down on them from + almost directly above, so that we saw the thwarts and the ribs + and the things they contained.</P> + + <P>Astern in each stood men, bending gracefully against the + thrust of long sweeps. About their waists were squares of cloth, + wrapped twice and tucked in. Otherwise they were naked, and the + long smooth muscles of their slender bodies rippled under the + skin. The latter was of a beautiful fine texture, and chocolate + brown. These men had keen, intelligent, clear-cut faces, of the + Greek order, as though the statues of a garden had been stained + brown and had come to life. They leaned on their sweeps, + thrusting slowly but strongly against the little wind and current + that would drift them back.</P> + + <P>In the body of the boats crouched, sat, or lay a picturesque + mob. Some pulled spasmodically on the very long limber oars; + others squatted doing nothing; some, huddled shapelessly + underneath white cloths that completely covered them, slept + soundly in the bottom. We took these for merchandise until one of + them suddenly threw aside his covering and sat up. Others, again, + poised in proud and graceful attitudes on the extreme prows of + their bobbing craft. Especially decorative were two, clad only in + immense white turbans and white cloths about the waist. An old + Arab with a white beard stood midships in one boat, quite + motionless, except for the slight swaying necessary to preserve + his equilibrium, his voluminous white draperies fluttering in the + wind, his dark face just distinguishable under his burnouse. Most + of the men were Somalis, however. Their keen small faces, slender + but graceful necks, slim, well-formed torsos bending to every + movement of the boat, and the white or gaudy draped nether + garments were as decorative as the figures on an Egyptian tomb. + One or two of the more barbaric had made neat headdresses of + white clay plastered in the form of a skull-cap.</P> + + <P>After an interval a small and fussy tugboat steamed around our + stern and drew alongside the gangway. Three passengers + disembarked from her and made their way aboard. The main deck of + the craft under an awning was heavily encumbered with trunks, tin + boxes, hand baggage, tin bath-tubs, gun cases, and all sorts of + impedimenta. The tugboat moored itself to us fore and aft, and + proceeded to think about discharging. Perhaps twenty men in + accurate replica of those in the small boats had charge of the + job. They had their own methods. After a long interval devoted + strictly to nothing, some unfathomable impulse would incite one + or two or three of the natives to tackle a trunk. At it they + tugged and heaved and pushed in the manner of ants making off + with a particularly large fly or other treasure trove, tossing it + up the steep gangway to the level of our decks. The trunks once + safely bestowed, all interest, all industry, died. We thought + that finished it, and wondered why the tug did not pull out of + the way. But always, after an interval, another bright idea would + strike another native or natives. He—or they—would + disappear beneath the canvas awning over the tug's deck, to + emerge shortly, carrying almost anything, from a parasol to a + heavy chest.</P> + + <P>On close inspection they proved to be a very small people. The + impression of graceful height had come from the slenderness and + justness of their proportions, the smallness of their bones, and + the upright grace of their carriage. After standing alongside + one, we acquired a fine respect for their ability to handle those + trunks at all.</P> + + <P>Moored to the other side of the ship we found two huge + lighters, from which bales of goods were being hoisted aboard. + Two camels and a dozen diminutive mules stood in the waist of one + of these craft. The camels were as sniffy and supercilious and + scornful as camels always are; and everybody promptly hated them + with the hatred of the abysmally inferior spirit for something + that scorns it, as is the usual attitude of the human mind + towards camels. We waited for upwards of an hour, in the hope of + seeing those camels hoisted aboard; but in vain. While we were so + waiting one of the deck passengers below us, a Somali in white + clothes and a gorgeous cerise turban, decided to turn in. He + spread a square of thin matting atop one of the hatches, and + began to unwind yards and yards of the fine silk turban. He came + to the end of it—whisk! he sank to the deck; the turban, + spread open by the resistance of the air, fluttered down to cover + him from head to foot. Apparently he fell asleep at once, for he + did not again move nor alter his position. He, as well as an + astonishingly large proportion of the other Somalis and + Abyssinians we saw, carried a queer, well-defined, triangular + wound in his head. It had long since healed, was an inch or so + across, and looked as though a piece of the skull had been + removed. If a conscientious enemy had leisure and an icepick he + would do just about that sort of a job. How its recipient had + escaped instant death is a mystery.</P> + + <P>At length, about three o'clock, despairing of the camels, we + turned in.</P> + + <P>After three hours' sleep we were again on deck. Aden by + daylight seemed to be several sections of a town tucked into + pockets in bold, raw, lava mountains that came down fairly to the + water's edge. Between these pockets ran a narrow shore road; and + along the road paced haughty camels hitched to diminutive carts. + On contracted round bluffs towards the sea were various low + bungalow buildings which, we were informed, comprised the + military and civil officers' quarters. The real Aden has been + built inland a short distance at the bottom of a cup in the + mountains. Elaborate stone reservoirs have been constructed to + catch rain water, as there is no other natural water supply + whatever. The only difficulty is that it practically never rains; + so the reservoirs stand empty, the water is distilled from the + sea, and the haughty camels and the little carts do the + distributing.</P> + + <P>The lava mountains occupy one side of the spacious bay or + gulf. The foot of the bay and the other side are flat, with one + or two very distant white villages, and many heaps of glittering + salt as big as houses.</P> + + <P>We waited patiently at the rail for an hour more to see the + camels slung aboard by the crane. It was worth the wait. They + lost their impassive and immemorial dignity completely, + sprawling, groaning, positively shrieking in dismay. When the + solid deck rose to them, and the sling had been loosened, + however, they regained their poise instantaneously. Their noses + went up in the air, and they looked about them with a + challenging, unsmiling superiority, as though to dare any one of + us to laugh. Their native attendants immediately squatted down in + front of them, and began to feed them with convenient lengths of + what looked like our common marsh cat-tails. The camels did not + even then manifest the slightest interest in the proceedings. + Indeed, they would not condescend to reach out three inches for + the most luscious tit-bit held that far from their aristocratic + noses. The attendants had actually to thrust the fodder between + their jaws. I am glad to say they condescended to chew.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='VII' id="VII"></A> + + <H2>VII.</H2> + + <P>THE INDIAN OCEAN.</P><BR> + + <P>Leaving Aden, and rounding the great promontory of Cape + Guardafui, we turned south along the coast of Africa. Off the + cape were strange, oily cross rips and currents on the surface of + the sea; the flying-fish rose in flocks before our bows; high + mountains of peaks and flat table tops thrust their summits into + clouds; and along the coast the breakers spouted like whales. For + the first time, too, we began to experience what our + preconceptions had imagined as tropical heat. Heretofore we had + been hot enough, in all conscience, but the air had felt as + though wafted from an opened furnace door—dry and + scorching. Now, although the temperature was lower,<A name= + 'FNanchor_2_2' id="FNanchor_2_2"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_2_2'><SUP>[2]</SUP></A> the humidity was greater. A + swooning languor was abroad over the spellbound ocean, a relaxing + mist of enchantment.</P> + + <P>My glasses were constantly clouding over with a fine coating + of water drops; exposed metal rusted overnight; the folds in + garments accumulated mildew in an astonishingly brief period of + time. There was never even the suggestion of chill in this + dampness. It clung and enveloped like a grateful garment; and + seemed only to lack sweet perfume.</P> + + <P>At this time, by good fortune, it happened that the moon came + full. We had enjoyed its waxing during our voyage down the Red + Sea; but now it had reached its greatest phase, and hung over the + slumbering tropic ocean like a lantern. The lazy sea stirred + beneath it, and the ship glided on, its lights fairly subdued by + the splendour of the waters. Under the awnings the ship's company + lounged in lazy attitudes or promenaded slowly, talking low + voiced, cigars glowing in the splendid dusk. Overside, in the + furrow of the disturbed waters, the phosphorescence flashed + perpetually beneath the shadow of the ship.</P> + + <P>The days passed by languidly and all alike. On the chart + outside the smoking-room door the procession of tiny German flags + on pins marched steadily, an inch at a time, towards the south. + Otherwise we might as well have imagined ourselves midgets afloat + in a pond and getting nowhere.</P> + + <P>Somewhere north of the equator—before Father Neptune in + ancient style had come aboard and ducked the lot of us—we + were treated to the spectacle of how the German "sheep" reacts + under a joke. Each nation has its type of fool; and all, for the + joyousness of mankind, differ. On the bulletin board one evening + appeared a notice to the effect that the following morning a + limited number of sportsmen would be permitted ashore for the + day. Each was advised to bring his own lunch, rifle, and drinks. + The reason alleged was that the ship must round a certain cape + across which the sportsmen could march afoot in sufficient time + to permit them a little shooting.</P> + + <P>Now aboard ship were a dozen English, four Americans, and + thirty or forty Germans. The Americans and English looked upon + that bulletin, smiled gently, and went to order another round of + lemon squashes. It was a meek, mild, little joke enough; but + surely the bulletin board was as far as it could possibly go. + Next morning, however, we observed a half-dozen of our German + friends in khaki and sun helmet, very busy with lunch boxes, + bottles of beer, rifles, and the like. They said they were going + ashore as per bulletin. We looked at each other and hied us to + the upper deck. There we found one of the boats slung overside, + with our old friend the quartermaster ostentatiously stowing kegs + of water, boxes, and the like.</P> + + <P>"When," we inquired gently, "does the expedition start?"</P> + + <P>"At ten o'clock," said he.</P> + + <P>It was now within fifteen minutes of that hour.</P> + + <P>We were at the time fully ten miles off shore, and forging + ahead full speed parallel with the coast.</P> + + <P>We pointed out this fact to the quartermaster, but found, to + our sorrow, that the poor old man had suddenly gone deaf! We + therefore refrained from asking several other questions that had + occurred to us—such as, why the cape was not shown on the + map.</P> + + <P>"Somebody," said one of the Americans, a cowboy going out + second class on the look for new cattle country, "is a goat. It + sure looks to me like it was these yere steamboat people. They + can't expect to rope nothing on such a raw deal as this!"</P> + + <P>To which the English assented, though in different idiom.</P> + + <P>But now up the companion ladder struggled eight serious-minded + individuals herded by the second mate. They were armed to the + teeth, and thoroughly equipped with things I had seen in German + catalogues, but in whose existence I had never believed. A + half-dozen sailors eagerly helped them with their multitudinous + effects. Not a thought gave they to the fact that we were ten + miles off the coast, that we gave no indication of slackening + speed, that it would take the rest of the day to row ashore, that + there was no cape for us to round, that if there were—oh! + all the other hundred improbabilities peculiar to the situation. + Under direction of the mate they deposited their impedimenta + beneath a tarpaulin, and took their places in solemn rows + amidships across the thwarts of the boat slung overside. The + importance of the occasion sat upon them heavily; they were going + ashore—in Africa—to Slay Wild Beasts. They looked + upon themselves as of bolder, sterner stuff than the rest of + us.</P> + + <P>When the procession first appeared, our cowboy's face for a + single instant had flamed with amazed incredulity. Then a mask of + expressionless stolidity fell across his features, which in no + line thereafter varied one iota.</P> + + <P>"What are they going to do with them?" murmured one of the + Englishmen, at a loss.</P> + + <P>"I reckon," said the cowboy, "that they look on this as the + easiest way to drown them all to onct."</P> + + <P>Then from behind one of the other boats suddenly appeared a + huge German sailor with a hose. The devoted imbeciles in the + shore boat were drenched as by a cloud-burst. Back and forth and + up and down the heavy stream played, while every other human + being about the ship shrieked with joy. Did the victims rise up + in a body and capture that hose nozzle and turn the stream to + sweep the decks? Did they duck for shelter? Did they at least + know enough to scatter and run? They did none of these things; + but sat there in meek little rows like mannikins until the boat + was half full of water and everything awash. Then, when the + sailor shut off the stream, they continued to sit there until the + mate came to order them out. Why? I cannot tell you. Perhaps that + is the German idea of how to take a joke. Perhaps they were + afraid worse things might be consequent on resistance. Perhaps + they still hoped to go ashore. One of the Englishmen asked just + that question.</P> + + <P>"What," he demanded disgustedly, "what is the matter with the + beggars?"</P> + + <P>Our cowboy may have had the correct solution. He stretched his + long legs and jumped down from the rail.</P> + + <P>"Nothing stirring above the ears," said he.</P> + + <P>It is customary in books of travel to describe this part of + the journey somewhat as follows: "Skirting the low and + uninteresting shores of Africa we at length reached," etc. Low + and uninteresting shores! Through the glasses we made out distant + mountains far beyond nearer hills. The latter were green-covered + with dense forests whence rose mysterious smokes. Along the shore + we saw an occasional cocoanut plantation to the water's edge and + native huts and villages of thatch. Canoes of strange models lay + drawn up on shelving beaches; queer fish-pounds of brush reached + out considerable distances from the coast. The white surf pounded + on a yellow beach.</P> + + <P>All about these things was the jungle, hemming in the + plantations and villages, bordering the lagoons, creeping down + until it fairly overhung the yellow beaches; as though, conqueror + through all the country beyond, it were half-inclined to dispute + dominion with old Ocean himself. It looked from the distance like + a thick, soft coverlet thrown down over the country; + following—or, rather, suggesting—the inequalities. + Through the glasses we were occasionally able to peep under the + edge of this coverlet, and see where the fringe of the jungle + drew back in a little pocket, or to catch the sheen of mysterious + dark rivers slipping to the sea. Up these dark rivers, by way of + the entrances of these tiny pockets, the imagination then could + lead on into the dimness beneath the sunlit upper surfaces.</P> + + <P>Towards the close of one afternoon we changed our course + slightly, and swung in on a long slant towards the coast. We did + it casually; too casually for so very important an action, for + now at last we were about to touch the mysterious continent. Then + we saw clearer the fine, big groves of palm and the luxuriance of + the tropical vegetation. Against the greenery, bold and white, + shone the buildings of Mombasa; and after a little while we saw + an inland glitter that represented her narrow, deep bay, the + stern of a wreck against the low, green cliffs, and strange, + fat-trunked squat trees without leaves. Straight past all this we + glided at half speed, then turned sharp to the right to enter a + long wide expanse like a river, with green banks, twenty feet or + so in height, grown thickly with the tall cocoanut palms. These + gave way at times into broad, low lagoons, at the end of which + were small beaches and boats, and native huts among more cocoanut + groves. Through our glasses we could see the black men watching + us, quite motionless, squatted on their heels.</P> + + <P>It was like suddenly entering another world, this gliding from + the open sea straight into the heart of a green land. The + ceaseless wash of waves we had left outside with the ocean; our + engines had fallen silent. Across the hushed waters came to us + strange chantings and the beating of a tom-tom, an occasional + shrill shout from the unknown jungle. The sun was just set, and + the tops of the palms caught the last rays; all below was dense + green shadow. Across the surface of the water glided dug-out + canoes of shapes strange to us. We passed ancient ruins almost + completely dismantled, their stones half smothered in green rank + growth. The wide river-like bay stretched on before us as far as + the waning light permitted us to see; finally losing itself in + the heart of mystery.</P> + + <P>Steadily and confidently our ship steamed forward, until at + last, when we seemed to be afloat in a land-locked lake, we + dropped anchor and came to rest.</P> + + <P>Darkness fell utterly before the usual quarantine regulations + had been carried through. Active and efficient agents had already + taken charge of our affairs, so we had only to wait idly by the + rail until summoned. Then we jostled our way down the long + gangway, passed and repassed by natives carrying baggage or + returning for more baggage, stepped briskly aboard a very bobby + little craft, clambered over a huge pile of baggage, and stowed + ourselves as best we could. A figure in a long white robe sat + astern, tiller ropes in hand; two half-naked blacks far up + towards the prow manipulated a pair of tremendous sweeps. With a + vast heaving, jabbering, and shouting, our boat disengaged itself + from the swarm of other craft. We floated around the stern of our + ship, and were immediately suspended in blackness dotted with the + stars and their reflections, and with various twinkling scattered + lights. To one of these we steered, and presently touched at a + stone quay with steps. At last we set foot on the land to which + so long we had journeyed and towards which our expectations had + grown so great. We experienced "the pleasure that touches the + souls of men landing on strange shores."</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_2_2' id= + "Footnote_2_2"></A><A href='#FNanchor_2_2'>[2]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>82-88° degrees in daytime, and 75-83° degrees at + night.</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='VIII' id="VIII"></A> + + <H2>VIII.</H2> + + <P>MOMBASA.</P><BR> + + <P>A single light shone at the end of the stone quay, and another + inside a big indeterminate building at some distance. We stumbled + towards this, and found it to be the biggest shed ever + constructed out of corrugated iron. A bearded Sikh stood on guard + at its open entrance. He let any one and every one enter, with + never a flicker of his expressionless black eyes; but allowed no + one to go out again without the closest scrutiny for dutiable + articles that lacked the blue customs plaster. We entered. The + place was vast and barnlike and dim, and very, very hot. A + half-dozen East Indians stood behind the counters; another, a + babu, sat at a little desk ready to give his clerical attention + to what might be required. We saw no European; but next morning + found that one passed his daylight hours in this inferno of heat. + For the moment we let our main baggage go, and occupied ourselves + only with getting through our smaller effects. This accomplished, + we stepped out past the Sikh into the grateful night.</P> + + <P>We had as guide a slender and wiry individual clad in tarboush + and long white robe. In a vague, general way we knew that the + town of Mombasa was across the island and about four miles + distant. In what direction or how we got there we had not the + remotest idea.</P> + + <P>The guide set off at a brisk pace with which we tried in vain + to keep step. He knew the ground, and we did not; and the night + was black dark. Commands to stop were of no avail whatever; nor + could we get hold of him to restrain him by force. When we put on + speed he put on speed too. His white robe glimmered ahead of us + just in sight; and in the darkness other white robes, passing and + crossing, glimmered also. At first the ground was rough, so that + we stumbled outrageously. Billy and B. soon fell behind, and I + heard their voices calling plaintively for us to slow down a + bit.</P> + + <P>"If I ever lose this nigger, I'll never find him again," I + shouted back, "but I can find you. Do the best you can!"</P> + + <P>We struck a smoother road that led up a hill on a long slant. + Apparently for miles we followed thus, the white-robed individual + ahead still deaf to all commands and the blood-curdling threats I + had now come to uttering. All our personal baggage had long since + mysteriously disappeared, ravished away from us at the customs + house by a ragged horde of blacks. It began to look as though we + were stranded in Africa without baggage or effects. Billy and B. + were all the time growing fainter in the distance, though + evidently they too had struck the long, slanting road.</P> + + <P>Then we came to a dim, solitary lantern glowing feebly beside + a bench at what appeared to be the top of the hill. Here our + guide at last came to a halt and turned to me a grinning + face.</P> + + <P>"Samama hapa," he observed.</P> + + <P>There! That was the word I had been frantically searching my + memory for! Samama—stop!</P> + + <P>The others struggled in. We were very warm. Up to the bench + led a tiny car track, the rails not over two feet apart, like the + toy railroads children use. This did not look much like grownup + transportation, but it and the bench and the dim lantern + represented all the visible world.</P> + + <P>We sat philosophically on the bench and enjoyed the soft + tropical night. The air was tepid, heavy with unknown perfume, + black as a band of velvet across the eyes, musical with the + subdued undertones of a thousand thousand night insects. At + points overhead the soft blind darkness melted imperceptibly into + stars.</P> + + <P>After a long interval we distinguished a distant faint + rattling, that each moment increased in loudness. Shortly came + into view along the narrow tracks a most extraordinary vehicle. + It was a small square platform on wheels, across which ran a + bench seat, and over which spread a canopy. It carried also a dim + lantern. This rumbled up to us and stopped. From its stern hopped + two black boys. Obeying a smiling invitation, we took our places + on the bench. The two boys immediately set to pushing us along + the narrow track.</P> + + <P>We were off at an astonishing speed through the darkness. The + night was deliciously tepid; and, as I have said, absolutely + dark. We made out the tops of palms and the dim loom of great + spreading trees, and could smell sweet, soft odours. The + bare-headed, lightly-clad boys pattered alongside whenever the + grade was easy, one hand resting against the rail; or pushed + mightily up little hills; or clung alongside like monkeys while + we rattled and swooped and plunged down hill into the darkness. + Subsequently we learned that a huge flat beam projecting + amidships from beneath the seat operated a brake which we above + were supposed to manipulate; but being quite ignorant as to the + ethics and mechanics of this strange street-car system, we swung + and swayed at times quite breathlessly.</P> + + <P>After about fifteen minutes we began to pick up lights ahead, + then to pass dimly-seen garden walls with trees whose brilliant + flowers the lantern revealed fitfully. At last we made out white + stucco houses, and shortly drew up with a flourish before the + hotel itself.</P> + + <P>This was a two-story stucco affair, with deep verandas sunken + in at each story. It fronted a wide white street facing a public + garden; and this, we subsequently discovered, was about the only + clear and open space in all the narrow town. Antelope horns were + everywhere hung on the walls; and teakwood easy-chairs, with + rests on which comfortably to elevate your feet above your head, + stood all about. We entered a bare, brick-floored dining-room, + and partook of tropical fruits quite new to us—papayes, + mangoes, custard apples, pawpaws, and the small red eating + bananas too delicate for export. Overhead the punkahs swung back + and forth in lazy hypnotic rhythm. We could see the two blacks at + the ends of the punkah cords outside on the veranda, their bodies + swaying lithely in alternation as they threw their weight against + the light ropes. Other blacks, in the long white robes and + exquisitely worked white skull caps of the Swahili, glided + noiselessly on bare feet, serving.</P> + + <P>After dinner we sat out until midnight in the teakwood chairs + of the upper gallery, staring through the arches into the black, + mysterious night, for it was very hot, and we rather dreaded the + necessary mosquito veils as likely to prove stuffy. The + mosquitoes are few in Mombasa, but they are very + deadly—very. At midnight the thermometer stood 87° + F.</P> + + <P>Our premonitions as to stuffiness were well justified. After a + restless night we came awake at daylight to the sound of a fine + row of some sort going on outside in the streets. Immediately we + arose, threw aside the lattices, and hung out over the sill.</P> + + <P>The chalk-white road stretched before us. Opposite was a + public square, grown with brilliant flowers, and flowering trees. + We could not doubt the cause of the trouble. An Indian on a + bicycle, hurrying to his office, had knocked down a native child. + Said child, quite naked, sat in the middle of the white dust and + howled to rend the heavens—whenever he felt himself + observed. If, however, the attention of the crowd happened for + the moment to be engrossed with the babu, the injured one sat up + straight and watched the row with interested, rolling, pickaninny + eyes. A native policeman made the centre of a whirling, + vociferating group. He was a fine-looking chap, straight and + soldierly, dressed in red tarboosh, khaki coat bound close around + the waist by yards and yards of broad red webbing, loose, short + drawers of khaki, bare knees and feet, and blue puttees between. + His manner was inflexible. The babu jabbered excitedly; telling, + in all probability, how he was innocent of fault, was late for + his work, etc. In vain. He had to go; also the kid, who now, + seeing himself again an object of interest, recommenced his + howling. Then the babu began frantically to indicate members of + the crowd whom he desired to retain as witnesses. Evidently not + pleased with the prospect of appearing in court, those indicated + promptly ducked and ran. The policeman as promptly pursued and + collared them one by one. He was a long-legged policeman, and he + ran well. The moment he laid hands on a fugitive, the latter + collapsed; whereupon the policeman dropped him and took after + another. The joke of it was that the one so abandoned did not try + again to make off, but stayed as though he had been tagged at + some game. Finally the whole lot, still vociferating, moved off + down the white road.</P> + + <P>For over an hour we hung from our window sill, thoroughly + interested and amused by the varied life that deployed before our + eyes. The morning seemed deliciously cool after the hot night, + although the thermometer stood high. The sky was very blue, with + big piled white clouds down near the horizon. Dazzling sun shone + on the white road, the white buildings visible up and down the + street, the white walls enclosing their gardens, and the greenery + and colours of the trees within them. For from what we could see + from our window we immediately voted tropical vegetation quite up + to advertisement: whole trees of gaudy red or yellow or bright + orange blossoms, flowering vines, flowering shrubs, peered over + the walls or through the fences; and behind them rose great + mangoes or the slenderer shafts of bananas and cocoanut + palms.</P> + + <P>Up and down wandered groups of various sorts of natives. A + month later we would have been able to identify their different + tribes and to know more about them; but now we wondered at them, + as strange and picturesque peoples. They impressed us in general + as being a fine lot of men, for they were of good physique, + carried themselves well, and looked about them with a certain + dignity and independence, a fine free pride of carriage and of + step. This fact alone differentiated them from our own negroes; + but, further, their features were in general much finer, and + their skins of a clear mahogany beautiful in its satiny texture. + Most—and these were the blackest—wore long white + robes and fine openwork skull caps. They were the local race, the + Swahili, had we but known it; the original "Zanzibari" who + furnished Livingstone, Stanley, Speke, and the other early + explorers with their men. Others, however, were much less + "civilized." We saw one "Cook's tour from the jungle" consisting + of six savages, their hair twisted into innumerable points, their + ear lobes stretched to hang fairly to their shoulders, wearing + only a rather neglectful blanket, adorned with polished wire, + carrying war clubs and bright spears. They followed, with eyes + and mouths open, a very sophisticated-looking city cousin in the + usual white garments, swinging a jaunty, light bamboo cane. The + cane seems to be a distinguishing mark of the leisured class. It + not only means that you are not working, but also that you have + no earthly desire to work.</P> + + <P>About this time one of the hotel boys brought the inevitable + chota-hazri—the tea and biscuits of early morning. For this + once it was very welcome.</P> + + <P>Our hotel proved to be on the direct line of freighting. There + are no horses or draught animals in Mombasa; the fly is too + deadly. Therefore all hauling is done by hand. The tiny tracks of + the unique street car system run everywhere any one would wish to + go; branching off even into private grounds and to the very front + doors of bungalows situated far out of town. Each resident owns + his own street car, just as elsewhere a man has his own carriage. + There are, of course, public cars also, each with its pair of + boys to push it; and also a number of rather decrepit rickshaws. + As a natural corollary to the passenger traffic, the freighting + also is handled by the blacks on large flat trucks with short + guiding poles. These men are quite naked save for a small loin + cloth; are beautifully shaped; and glisten all over with + perspiration shining in the sun. So fine is the texture of their + skins, the softness of their colour—so rippling the play of + muscles—that this shining perspiration is like a beautiful + polish. They rush from behind, slowly and steadily, and patiently + and unwaveringly, the most tremendous loads of the heaviest + stuffs. When the hill becomes too steep for them, they turn their + backs against the truck; and by placing one foot behind the + other, a few inches at a time, they edge their burden up the + slope.</P> + + <P>The steering is done by one man at the pole or tongue in + front. This individual also sets the key to the song by which in + Africa all heavy labour is carried forward. He cries his wavering + shrill-voiced chant; the toilers utter antiphony in low gruff + tones. At a distance one hears only the wild high syncopated + chanting; but as the affair draws slowly nearer, he catches the + undertone of the responses. These latter are cast in the regular + swing and rhythm of effort; but the steersman throws in his bit + at odd and irregular intervals. Thus:</P> + + <P>Headman (shrill): "Hay, ah mon!"</P> + + <P>Pushers (gruff in rhythm): + "Tunk!—tunk!—tunk!—" or:</P> + + <P>Headman (and wavering minor chant): + "Ah—nah—nee—e-e-e!"</P> + + <P>Pushers (undertone): "Umbwa—jo-e! + Um-bwa—jo—e!"</P> + + <P>These wild and barbaric chantings—in the distance; near + at hand; dying into distance again—slow, dogged, toilsome, + came to be to us one of the typical features of the place.</P> + + <P>After breakfast we put on our sun helmets and went forth + curiously to view the town. We found it roughly divided into four + quarters—the old Portuguese, the Arabic, the European, and + the native. The Portuguese comprises the outer fringe next the + water-front of the inner bay. It is very narrow of street, with + whitewashed walls, balconies, and wonderful carven and studded + doors. The business of the town is done here. The Arabic quarter + lies back of it—a maze of narrow alleys winding aimlessly + here and there between high white buildings, with occasionally + the minarets and towers of a mosque. This district harboured, + besides the upper-class Swahilis and Arabs, a large number of + East Indians. Still back of this are thousands of the low grass, + or mud and wattle huts of the natives, their roofs thatched with + straw or palm. These are apparently arranged on little system. + The small European population lives atop the sea bluffs beyond + the old fort in the most attractive bungalows. This, the most + desirable location of all, has remained open to them because + heretofore the fierce wars with which Mombasa, "the Island of + Blood," has been swept have made the exposed seaward lands + impossible.</P> + + <P>No idle occupation can be more fascinating than to wander + about the mazes of this ancient town. The variety of race and + occupation is something astounding. Probably the one human note + that, everywhere persisting, draws the whole together is + furnished by the water-carriers. Mombasa has no water system + whatever. The entire supply is drawn from numberless picturesque + wells scattered everywhere in the crowded centre, and distributed + mainly in Standard Oil cans suspended at either end of a short + pole. By dint of constant daily exercise, hauling water up from a + depth and carrying it various distances, these men have developed + the most beautifully powerful figures. They proceed at a half + trot, the slender poles, with forty pounds at either end, seeming + fairly to cut into their naked shoulders, muttering a word of + warning to the loiterers at every other breath—semeelay! + semeelay! No matter in what part of Mombasa you may happen to be, + or at what hour of the day or night, you will meet these + industrious little men trotting along under their burdens.</P> + + <P>Everywhere also are the women, carrying themselves proudly + erect, with a free swing of the hips. They wear invariably a + single sheet of cotton cloth printed in blue or black with the + most astonishing borders and spotty designs. This is drawn tight + just above the breasts, leaving the shoulders and arms bare. + Their hair is divided into perhaps a dozen parts running + lengthwise of the head from the forehead to the nape of the neck, + after the manner of the stripes on a watermelon. Each part then + ends in a tiny twisted pigtail not over an inch long. The lobes + of their ears have been stretched until they hold thick round + disks about three inches in diameter, ornamented by concentric + circles of different colours, with a red bull's eye for a centre. + The outer edges of the ears are then further decorated with gold + clasps set closely together. Many bracelets, necklaces, and + armlets complete the get-up. They are big women, with soft + velvety skins and a proud and haughty carriage—the + counterparts of the men in the white robes and caps.</P> + + <P>By the way, it may be a good place here to remark that these + garments, and the patterned squares of cloth worn by the women, + are invariably most spotlessly clean.</P> + + <P>These, we learned, were the Swahilis, the ruling class, the + descendants of the slave traders. Beside them are all sorts and + conditions. Your true savage pleased his own fancy as to dress + and personal adornment. The bushmen generally shaved the edges of + their wool to leave a nice close-fitting natural skull cap, wore + a single blanket draped from one shoulder, and carried a war + club. The ear lobe seemed always to be stretched; sometimes + sufficiently to have carried a pint bottle. Indeed, white + marmalade jars seemed to be very popular wear. One ingenious + person had acquired a dozen of the sort of safety pins used to + fasten curtains to their rings. These he had snapped into the + lobes, six on a side.</P> + + <P>We explored for some time. One of the Swahilis attached + himself to us so unobtrusively that before we knew it we had + accepted him as guide. In that capacity he realized an ideal, for + he never addressed a word to us, nor did he even stay in sight. + We wandered along at our sweet will, dawdling as slowly as we + pleased. The guide had apparently quite disappeared. Look where + we would we could in no manner discover him. At the next corner + we would pause, undecided as to what to do; there, in the middle + distance, would stand our friend, smiling. When he was sure we + had seen him, and were about to take the turn properly, he would + disappear again. Convoyed in this pleasant fashion we wound and + twisted up and down and round and about through the most + appalling maze. We saw the native markets with their vociferating + sellers seated cross-legged on tables behind piles of fruit or + vegetables, while an equally vociferating crowd surged up and + down the aisles. Gray parrots and little monkeys perched + everywhere about. Billy gave one of the monkeys a banana. He + peeled it exactly as a man would have done, smelt it critically, + and threw it back at her in the most insulting fashion. We saw + also the rows of Hindu shops open to the street, with their + gaudily dressed children of blackened eyelids, their stolid dirty + proprietors, and their women marvellous in bright silks and + massive bangles. In the thatched native quarter were more of the + fine Swahili women sitting cross-legged on the earth under low + verandas, engaged in different handicrafts; and chickens; and + many amusing naked children. We made friends with many of them, + communicating by laughter and by signs, while our guide stood + unobtrusively in the middle distance waiting for us to come on. + Just at sunset he led us out to a great open space, with a tall + palm in the centre of it and the gathering of a multitude of + people. A mollah was clambering into a high scaffold built of + poles, whence shortly he began to intone a long-drawn-out "Allah! + Allah! il Allah!" The cocoanut palms cut the sunset, and the + boabab trees—the fat, lazy boababs—looked more + monstrous than ever. We called our guide and conferred on him the + munificent sum of sixteen and a half cents; with which, + apparently much pleased, he departed. Then slowly we wandered + back to the hotel.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='PART_II' id="PART_II"></A> + + <H2>PART II.</H2> + + <P>THE SHIMBA HILLS.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='IX' id="IX"></A> + + <H2>IX.</H2> + + <P>A TROPICAL JUNGLE.</P><BR> + + <P>Many months later, and after adventures elsewhere + described,<A name='FNanchor_3_3' id="FNanchor_3_3"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_3_3'><SUP>[3]</SUP></A> besides others not relevant + for the moment, F., an Englishman, and I returned to Mombasa. We + came from some hundred odd miles in the interior where we had + been exploring the sources and the course of the Tsavo River. Now + our purpose was to penetrate into the low, hot, wooded country + along the coast known as the Shimba Hills in quest of a rare + beast called the sable antelope.</P> + + <P>These hills could be approached in one of two ways—by + crossing the harbour, and then marching two days afoot; or by + voyaging up to the very end of one of the long arms of the sea + that extend many miles inland. The latter involved dhows, + dependence on uncertain winds, favourable tides, and a heap of + good luck. It was less laborious but most uncertain. At this + stage of the plan the hotel manager came forward with the offer + of a gasoline launch, which we gladly accepted.</P> + + <P>We embarked about noon, storing our native carriers and + effects aboard a dhow hired for the occasion. This we purposed + towing. A very neatly uniformed Swahili bearing on his stomach a + highly-polished brass label as big as a door plate—"Harbour + Police"—threw duck fists over what he called overloading + the boat. He knew very little about boats, but threw very + competent duck fists. As we did know something about boats, we + braved unknown consequences by disregarding him utterly. No + consequences ensued—unless perhaps to his own health. When + everything was aboard, that dhow was pretty well down, but still + well afloat. Then we white men took our places in the launch.</P> + + <P>This was a long narrow affair with a four-cylinder + thirty-horsepower engine. As she possessed no speed gears, she + had either to plunge ahead full speed or come to a stop; there + were no compromises. Her steering was managed by a tiller instead + of a wheel, so that a mere touch sufficed to swerve her ten feet + from her course. As the dhow was in no respects built on such + nervous lines, she did occasionally some fancy and splashing + curves.</P> + + <P>The pilot of the launch turned out to be a sandy-haired Yankee + who had been catching wild animals for Barnum and Bailey's + circus. While waiting for his ship, he, being a proverbial handy + Yankee, had taken on this job. He became quite interested in + telling us this, and at times forgot his duties at the tiller. + Then that racing-launch would take a wild swoop; the clumsy old + dhow astern would try vainly, with much spray and dangerous + careening, to follow; the compromise course would all but upset + her; the spray would fly; the safari boys would take their + ducking; the boat boys would yell and dance and lean frantically + against the two long sweeps with which they tried to steer. In + this wild and untrammelled fashion we careered up the bay, too + interested in our own performances to pay much attention to the + scenery. The low shores, with their cocoanut groves gracefully + rising above the mangrove tangle, slipped by, and the distant + blue Shimba Hills came nearer.</P> + + <P>After a while we turned into a narrower channel with a good + many curves and a quite unknown depth of water. Down this we + whooped at the full speed of our thirty-horsepower engine. + Occasional natives, waist deep and fishing, stared after us + open-eyed. The Yankee ventured a guess as to how hard she would + hit on a mudbank. She promptly proved his guess a rank + underestimate by doing so. We fell in a heap on the bottom. The + dhow bore down on us with majestic momentum. The boat boys leaned + frantically on their sweeps, and managed just to avoid us. The + dhow also rammed the mudbank. A dozen reluctant boys hopped + overboard and pushed us off. We pursued our merry way again. On + either hand now appeared fish weirs of plaited coco fibre; which, + being planted in the shallows, helped us materially to guess at + the channel. Naked men, up to their shoulders in the water, + attended to some mysterious need of the nets, or emerged dripping + and sparkling from the water with baskets of fish atop their + heads. The channel grew even narrower, and the mudbanks more + frequent. We dodged a dozen in our headlong course. Our local + guide, a Swahili in tarboosh and a beautiful saffron robe, showed + signs of strong excitement. We were to stop, he said, around the + next bend; and at this rate we never could stop. The Yankee + remarked, superfluously, that it would be handy if this + dod-blistered engine had a clutch; adding, as an afterthought, + that no matter how long he stayed in the tropics his nose peeled. + We asked what we should do if we over-carried our prospective + landing-place. He replied that the dod-blistered thing did have a + reverse. While thus conversing we shot around a corner into a + complete cul-de-sac! Everything was shut off hastily, and an + instant later we and the dhow smashed up high and dry on a cozy + mud beach! We drew a deep breath and looked around us.</P> + + <P>Mangrove thicket to the edge of the slimy ooze; trees + behind—that was all we could see. We gave our attention to + the business of getting our men, our effects, and ourselves + ashore. The ooze proved to be just above knee deep. The porters + had a fearful and floundering time, and received much obvious + comment from us perched in the bow of the launch. Finally + everything was debarked. F. and I took off our boots; but our + gunbearers expressed such horror at the mere thought of our + plunging into the mud, that we dutifully climbed them pick-a-back + and were carried. The hard shell beach was a hundred feet away, + occupying a little recess where the persistent tough mangroves + drew back. From it led a narrow path through the thicket. We + waved and shouted a farewell to the crews of the launch and the + dhow.</P> + + <P>The path for a hundred feet was walled in by the mangroves + through which scuttled and rattled the big land crabs. Then + suddenly we found ourselves in a story-book tropical paradise. + The tall coco palms rose tufted above everything; the fans of the + younger palms waved below; bananas thrust the banners of their + broad leaves wherever they could find space; creepers and vines + flung the lush luxuriance of their greenery over all the earth + and into the depths of all the half-guessed shadows. In no + direction could one see unobstructed farther than twenty feet, + except straight up; and there one could see just as far as the + tops of the palms. It was like being in a room—a green, + hot, steamy, lovely room. Very bright-coloured birds that ought + really to have been at home in their cages fluttered about.</P> + + <P>We had much vigorous clearing to do to make room for our + tents. By the time the job was finished we were all pretty hot. + Several of the boys made vain attempts to climb for nuts, but + without success. We had brought them with us from the interior, + where cocoanuts do not grow; and they did not understand the + method. They could swarm up the tall slim stems all right, but + could not manage to get through the downward-pointing spikes of + the dead leaves. F. tried and failed, to the great amusement of + the men, but to the greater amusement of myself. I was a wise + person, and lay on my back on a canvas cot, so it was not much + bother to look up and enjoy life. Not to earn absolutely the + stigma of laziness, I tried to shoot some nuts down. This did not + work either, for the soft, spongy stems closed around the bullet + holes. Then a little wizened monkey of a Swahili porter, having + watched our futile performances with interest, nonchalantly + swarmed up; in some mysterious manner he wriggled through the + defences, and perched in the top, whence he dropped to us a dozen + big green nuts. Our men may not have been much of a success at + climbing for nuts; but they were passed masters at the art of + opening them. Three or four clips from their awkward swordlike + pangas, and we were each presented with a clean, beautiful, + natural goblet brimming full of a refreshing drink.</P> + + <P>About this time a fine figure of a man drifted into camp. He + was very smooth-skinned, very dignified, very venerable. He was + pure Swahili, though of the savage branch of that race, and had + none of the negro type of countenance. In fact, so like was he in + face, hair, short square beard and genial dignity to a certain + great-uncle of mine that it was very hard to remember that he had + on only a small strip of cloth, that he was cherishing as a great + treasure a piece of soap box he had salvaged from the shore, and + that his skin was red chocolate. I felt inclined to talk to him + as to an intellectual equal, especially as he had a fine resonant + bass voice that in itself lent his remarks some importance. + However, I gave him two ordinary wood screws, showed him how they + screwed in and out, and left him happy.</P> + + <P>After supper the moon rose, casting shadows of new and unknown + shapes through this strangely new and unknown forest. A thin + white mist ascending everywhere from the soil tempered but could + not obscure the white brilliance. The thermometer stood now only + at 82°, but the dripping tropical sweat-bath in which our + camp was pitched considerably raised the sensible heat. A bird + with a most diabolical shrieking note cursed in the shadows. + Another, a pigeon-like creature, began softly, and continued to + repeat in diminishing energy until it seemed to have run down, + like a piece of clockwork.</P> + + <P>Our way next morning led for some time through this lovely but + damp jungle. Then we angled up the side of a hill to emerge into + the comparatively open country atop what we Westerners would call + a "hog's back"—a long narrow spurlike ridge mounting slowly + to the general elevation of the main hills. Here were high green + bushes, with little free open passages between them, and + occasionally meadow-like openings running down the slopes on one + side or the other. Before us, some miles distant, were the + rounded blue hills.</P> + + <P>We climbed steadily. It was still very early morning, but + already the day was hot. Pretty soon we saw over the jungle to + the gleaming waters of the inlet, and then to the sea. Our "hog's + back" led us past a ridge of the hills, and before we knew it we + had been deposited in a shallow valley three or four miles wide + between parallel ridges; the said valley being at a considerable + elevation, and itself diversified with rolling hills, ravines, + meadow land, and wide flats. On many of the ridges were scattered + cocoanut palms, and occasional mango groves, while many smokes + attested the presence of natives.</P> + + <P>These we found in shambas or groups of little farms, huddled + all together, with wilderness and brush and trees, or the wide + open green grass lawn between. The houses were very large and + neat-looking. They were constructed quite ingeniously from coco + branches. Each branch made one mat. The leaves were all brought + over to the same side of the stem, and then plaited. The + resulting mat was then six or seven feet long by from twelve to + sixteen inches broad, and could be used for a variety of + purposes. Indeed, we found Melville's chapter in "Typhee" as to + the various uses of the cocoanut palm by no means exaggerated. + The nuts, leaves, and fibre supplied every conceivable human + want.</P> + + <P>The natives were a pleasant, friendly, good-looking lot. In + fact, so like was their cast of countenance to that of the + white-skinned people we were accustomed to see that we had great + difficulty in realizing that they were mere savages, + costume—or lack of it—to the contrary + notwithstanding. Under a huge mango tree two were engaged in + dividing a sheep. Sixty or seventy others stood solemnly around + watching. It may have been a religious ceremony, for all I know; + but the affair looked to be about two parts business to sixty of + idle and cheerful curiosity. We stopped and talked to them a + little, chaffed the pretty girls—they were really + pretty—and marched on.</P> + + <P>About noon our elegant guide stopped, struck an attitude, and + pointed with his silver-headed rattan cane.</P> + + <P>"This," said he, "is where we must camp."</P> + + <P>We marched through a little village. A family party sat + beneath the veranda of a fine building—a very old wrinkled + couple; two stalwart beautiful youths; a young mother suckling + her baby; two young girls; and eight or ten miscellaneous and + naked youngsters. As the rest of the village appeared to be + empty, I imagined this to be the caretaker's family, and the + youngsters to belong to others. We stopped and spoke, were + answered cheerfully, suggested that we might like to buy + chickens, and offered a price. Instantly with a whoop of joy the + lot of them were afoot. The fowl waited for no further + intimations of troublous times, but fled squawking. They had been + there before. So had our hosts; for inside a minute they had + returned, each with a chicken—and a broad grin.</P> + + <P>After due payment we proceeded on a few hundred yards, and + pitched camp beneath two huge mango trees.</P> + + <P>Besides furnishing one of the most delicious of the tropical + fruits, the mango is also one of the most beautiful of trees. It + is tall, spreads very wide, and its branches sweep to within ten + feet of the ground. Its perfect symmetry combined with the size + and deep green of its leaves causes it to resemble, from a short + distance, a beautiful green hill. Beneath its umbrella one finds + dense shade, unmottled by a single ray of sunlight, so that one + can lie under it in full confidence. For, parenthetically, even a + single ray of this tropical sunlight is to the unprotected a very + dangerous thing. But the leaves of the mango have this + peculiarity, which distinguishes it from all other + trees—namely, that they grow only at the very ends of the + small twigs and branches. As these, of course, grow only at the + ends of the big limbs, it follows that from beneath the mango + looks like a lofty green dome, a veritable pantheon of the + forest.</P> + + <P>We made our camp under one of these trees; gave ourselves all + the space we could use; and had plenty left over—five tents + and a cook camp, with no crowding. It was one of the pleasantest + camps I ever saw. Our green dome overhead protected us absolutely + from the sun; high sweet grass grew all about us; the breeze + wandered lazily up from the distant Indian Ocean. Directly before + our tent door the slope fell gently away through a sparse + cocoanut grove whose straight stems panelled our view, then rose + again to the clear-cut outline of a straight ridge opposite. The + crest of this was sentinelled by tall scattered cocoanut trees, + the "bursting star" pyrotechnic effect of their tops being + particularly fine against the sky.</P> + + <P>After a five hours' tropical march uphill we were glad to sit + under our green dome, to look at our view, to enjoy the little + breeze, and to drink some of the cocoanuts our friends the + villagers brought in.</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_3_3' id= + "Footnote_3_3"></A><A href='#FNanchor_3_3'>[3]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>"The Land of Footprints."</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='X' id="X"></A> + + <H2>X.</H2> + + <P>THE SABLE.</P><BR> + + <P>About three o'clock I began to feel rested and ambitious. + Therefore I called up our elegant guide and Memba Sasa, and set + out on my first hunt for sable. F. was rather more done up by the + hard morning, and so did not go along. The guide wore still his + red tarboosh, his dark short jacket, his saffron yellow nether + garment—it was not exactly a skirt—and his + silver-headed rattan cane. The only change he made was to tuck up + the skirt, leaving his long legs bare. It hardly seemed + altogether a suitable costume for hunting; but he seemed to know + what he was about.</P> + + <P>We marched along ridges, and down into ravines, and across + gulleys choked with brush. Horrible thickets alternated with and + occasionally surrounded open green meadows hanging against the + side hills. As we proceeded, the country became rougher, the + ravines more precipitous. We struggled up steep hills, fairly + bucking our way through low growth that proved all but + impenetrable. The idea was to find a sable feeding in one of the + little open glades; but whenever I allowed myself to think of the + many adverse elements of the game, the chances seemed very slim. + It took a half-hour to get from one glade to the next; there were + thousands of glades. The sable is a rare shy animal that likes + dense cover fully as well if not better than the open. Sheer rank + bull luck alone seemed the only hope. And as I felt my strength + going in that vicious struggle against heavy brush and steep + hills, I began to have very strong doubts indeed as to that + sable.</P> + + <P>For it was cruel, hard work. In this climate one hailed a car + or a rickshaw to do an errand two streets away, and considered + oneself quite a hero if one took a leisurely two-mile stroll + along the cliff heads at sunset. Here I was, after a five-hour + uphill march, bucking into brush and through country that would + be considered difficult going even in Canada. At the end of + twenty minutes my every garment was not wringing but dripping + wet, so that when I carried my rifle over my arm water ran down + the barrel and off the muzzle in a steady stream. After a bit of + this my knees began to weaken; and it became a question of saving + energy, of getting along somehow, and of leaving the actual + hunting to Memba Sasa and the guide. If they had shown me a + sable, I very much doubt if I could have hit it.</P> + + <P>However, we did not see one, and I staggered into camp at dusk + pretty well exhausted. From the most grateful hot bath and clean + clothes I derived much refreshment. Shortly I was sitting in my + canvas chair, sipping a cocoanut, and describing the condition of + affairs to F., who was naturally very curious as to how the trick + was done.</P> + + <P>"Now," I concluded, "I know just about what I can and what I + cannot do. Three days more of this sort of work will feed me up. + If we do not run across a sable in that time, I'm afraid we don't + get any."</P> + + <P>"Two days will do for me," said he.</P> + + <P>We called up the guide and questioned him closely. He seemed + quite confident; and asserted that in this country sable were + found, when they were found at all, which was not often. They + must be discovered in the small grassy openings. We began to + understand why so very few people get sable.</P> + + <P>We dismissed the guide, and sat quietly smoking in the warm + soft evening. The air was absolutely still save for various night + insects and birds, and the weird calling of natives across the + valleys. Far out towards the sea a thunderstorm flashed; and + after a long interval the rumblings came to us. So very distant + was it that we paid it little attention, save as an interesting + background to our own still evening. Almost between sentences of + our slow conversation, however, it rushed up to the zenith, + blotting out the stars. The tall palms began to sway and rustle + in the forerunning breeze. Then with a swoop it was upon us, a + tempest of fury. We turned in; and all night long the heavy + deluges of rain fell, roaring like surf on an unfriendly + coast.</P> + + <P>By morning this had fallen to a light, steady drizzle in which + we started off quite happily. In this climate one likes to get + wet. The ground was sodden and deep with muck. Within a mile of + camp we saw many fresh buffalo tracks.</P> + + <P>This time we went downhill and still downhill through openings + among batches of great forest trees. The new leaves were just + coming out in pinks and russets, so that the effect at a little + distance was almost precisely that of our autumn foliage in its + duller phases. So familiar were made some of the low rounded + knolls that for an instant we were respectively back in the hills + of Surrey or Michigan, and told each other so.</P> + + <P>Thus we moved slowly out from the dense cover to the grass + openings. Far over on another ridge F. called my attention to + something jet-black and indeterminate. In another country I + should have named it as a charred log on an old pine burning, for + that was precisely what it looked like. We glanced at it casually + through our glasses. It was a sable buck lying down right out in + the open. He was black and sleek, and we could make out his + sweeping scimitar horns.</P> + + <P>Memba Sasa and the Swahili dropped flat on their faces while + F. and I crawled slowly and cautiously through the mud until we + had gained the cover of a shallow ravine that ran in the beast's + general direction. Noting carefully a certain small thicket as + landmark, we stooped and moved as fast as we could down to that + point of vantage. There we cautiously parted the grasses and + looked. The sable had disappeared. The place where he had been + lying was plainly to be identified, and there was no cover save a + tiny bush between two and three feet high. We were quite certain + he had neither seen nor winded us. Either he had risen and fled + forward into the ravine up which we had made our stalk, or else + he had entered the small thicket. F. agreed to stay on watch + where he was, while I slipped back and examined the earth to + leeward of the thicket.</P> + + <P>I had hardly crawled ten yards, however, before the gentle + snapping of F.'s fingers recalled me to his side.</P> + + <P>"He's behind that bush," he whispered in my ear.</P> + + <P>I looked. The bush was hardly large enough to conceal a setter + dog, and the sable is somewhat larger than our elk. Nevertheless + F. insisted that the animal was standing behind it, and that he + had caught the toss of its head. We lay still for some time, + while the soft, warm rain drizzled down on us, our eyes riveted + on the bush. And then we caught the momentary flash of curved + horns as the sable tossed his head. It seemed incredible even + then that the tiny bush should conceal so large a beast. As a + matter of fact we later found that the bush grew on a slight + elevation, behind which was a depression. In this the sable + stood, patiently enduring the drizzle.</P> + + <P>We waited some time in hopes he would move forward a foot or + so; but apparently he had selected his loafing place with care, + and liked it. The danger of a shift of wind was always present. + Finally I slipped back over the brink of the ravine, moved three + yards to the left, and crawled up through the tall dripping grass + to a new position behind a little bush. Cautiously raising my + head, I found I could see plainly the sable's head and part of + his shoulders. My position was cramped and out of balance for + offhand shooting; but I did my best, and heard the loud plunk of + the hit. The sable made off at a fast though rather awkward + gallop, wheeled for an instant a hundred yards farther on, + received another bullet in the shoulder, and disappeared over the + brow of the hill. We raced over the top to get in another shot, + and found him stone dead.</P> + + <P>He was a fine beast, jet-black in coat, with white markings on + the face, red-brown ears, and horns sweeping up and back scimitar + fashion. He stood four feet and six inches at the shoulder, and + his horns were the second best ever shot in British East Africa. + This beast has been described by Heller as a new subspecies, and + named Rooseveltii. His description was based upon an immature + buck and a doe shot by Kermit Roosevelt. The determination of + subspecies on so slight evidence seems to me unscientific in the + extreme. While the immature males do exhibit the general brown + tone relied on by Mr. Heller, the mature buck differs in no + essential from the tropical sable. I find the alledged subspecies + is not accepted by European scientists.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XI' id="XI"></A> + + <H2>XI.</H2> + + <P>A MARCH ALONG THE COAST.</P><BR> + + <P>With a most comfortable feeling that my task was done, that + suddenly the threatening clouds of killing work had been cleared + up, I was now privileged to loaf and invite my soul on this + tropical green hilltop while poor F. put in the days trying to + find another sable. Every morning he started out before daylight. + I could see the light of his lantern outside the tent; and I + stretched myself in the luxurious consciousness that I should + hear no deprecating but insistent "hodie" from my boy until I + pleased to invite it. In the afternoon or evening F. would + return, quite exhausted and dripping, with only the report of new + country traversed. No sable; no tracks of sable; no old signs, + even, of sable. Gradually it was borne in on me how lucky I was + to have come upon my magnificent specimen so promptly and in such + favourable circumstances.</P> + + <P>A leisurely breakfast alone, with the sun climbing; then the + writing of notes, a little reading, and perhaps a stroll to the + village or along the top of the ridge. At the heat of noon a + siesta with a cool cocoanut at my elbow. The view was beautiful + on all sides; our great tree full of birds; the rising and dying + winds in the palms like the gathering oncoming rush of the rains. + From mountain to mountain sounded the wild, far-carrying + ululations of the natives, conveying news or messages across the + wide jungle. Towards sunset I wandered out in the groves, + enjoying the many bright flowers, the tall, sweet grasses, and + the cocoa-palms against the sky. Piles of cocoanuts lay on the + ground, covered each with a leaf plaited in a peculiarly + individual manner to indicate ownership. Small boys, like little + black imps, clung naked half-way up the slim trunks of the palms, + watching me bright-eyed above the undergrowth. In all directions, + crossing and recrossing, ran a maze of beaten paths. Each led + somewhere, but it would require the memory of—well, of a + native, to keep all their destinations in mind.</P> + + <P>I used to follow some of them to their ending in little + cocoa-leaf houses on the tops of knolls or beneath mangoes; and + would talk with the people. They were very grave and very polite, + and seemed to be living out their lives quite correctly according + to their conceptions. Again, it was borne in on me that these + people are not stumbling along the course of evolution in our + footsteps, but have gone as far in their path as we have in ours; + that they have reached at least as complete a correspondence with + their environment as we with our own.<A name='FNanchor_4_4' id= + "FNanchor_4_4"></A><A href='#Footnote_4_4'><SUP>[4]</SUP></A></P> + + <P>If F. had not returned by the time I reached camp, I would + seat myself in my canvas chair, and thence dispense justice, + advice, or medical treatment. If none of these things seemed + demanded, I smoked my pipe. To me one afternoon came a + big-framed, old, dignified man, with the heavy beard, the noble + features, the high forehead, and the blank statue eyes of the + blind Homer. He was led by a very small, very bright-eyed naked + boy. At some twenty feet distance he squatted down cross-legged + before me. For quite five minutes he sat there silent, while I + sat in my camp chair, smoked and waited. At last he spoke in a + rolling deep bass voice rich and vibrating—a delight to + hear.</P> + + <P>"Jambo (greeting)!" said he.</P> + + <P>"Jambo!" I replied mildly.</P> + + <P>Again a five-minute silence. I had begun reading, and had all + but forgotten his presence.</P> + + <P>"Jambo bwana (greeting, master)!" he rolled out.</P> + + <P>"Jambo!" I repeated.</P> + + <P>The same dignified, unhasting pause.</P> + + <P>"Jambo bwana m'kubwa (greeting, great master)!"</P> + + <P>"Jambo!" quoth I, and went on reading. The sun was dropping, + but the old man seemed in no hurry.</P> + + <P>"Jambo bwana m'kubwa sana (greeting, most mighty master)!" he + boomed at last.</P> + + <P>"Jambo!" said I.</P> + + <P>This would seem to strike the superlative, and I expected now + that he would state his business, but the old man had one more + shot in his locker.</P> + + <P>"Jambo bwana m'kubwa kabeesa sana (greeting, mightiest + possible master)!" it came.</P> + + <P>Then in due course he delicately hinted that a gift of tobacco + would not come amiss.</P> + + <P>F. returned a trifle earlier than usual, to admit that his + quest was hopeless, that his physical forces were for the time + being at an end, and that he was willing to go home.</P> + + <P>Accordingly very early next morning we set out by the glimmer + of a lantern, hoping to get a good start on our journey before + the heat of the day became too severe. We did gain something, but + performed several unnecessary loops and semicircles in the maze + of beaten paths before we finally struck into one that led down + the slope towards the sea. Shortly after the dawn came up "like + thunder" in its swiftness, followed almost immediately by the + sun.</P> + + <P>Our way now led along the wide flat between the seashore and + the Shimba Hills, in which we had been hunting. A road ten feet + wide and innocent of wheels ran with obstinate directness up and + down the slight contours and through the bushes and cocoanut + groves that lay in its path. So mathematically straight was it + that only when perspective closed it in, or when it dropped over + the summit of a little rise, did the eye lose the effect of its + interminability. The country through which this road led was + various—open bushy veld with sparse trees, dense jungle, + cocoanut groves, tall and cool. In the shadows of the latter were + the thatched native villages. To the left always ran the blue + Shimba Hills; and far away to the right somewhere we heard the + grumbling of the sea.</P> + + <P>Every hundred yards or so we met somebody. Even thus early the + road was thronged. By far the majority were the almost naked + natives of the district, pleasant, brown-skinned people with good + features. They carried things. These things varied from great + loads balanced atop to dainty impromptu baskets woven of + cocoa-leaves and containing each a single cocoanut. They smiled + on us, returned our greeting, and stood completely aside to let + us pass. Other wayfarers were of more importance. Small groups of + bearded dignitaries, either upper-class Swahili or pure Arabs, + strolled slowly along, apparently with limitless leisure, but + evidently bound somewhere, nevertheless. They replied to our + greetings with great dignity. Once, also, we overtook a small + detachment of Sudanese troops moving. They were scattered over + several miles of road. A soldier, most impressive and neat in + khaki and red tarboosh and sash; then two or three of his + laughing, sleek women, clad in the thin, patterned "'Mericani," + glittering with gold ornaments; then a half dozen ragged porters + carrying official but battered painted wooden kit boxes, or bags, + or miscellaneous curious plunder; then more troopers; and so on + for miles. They all drew aside for us most respectfully; and the + soldiers saluted, very smart and military.</P> + + <P>Under the broad-spreading mangoes near the villages we came + upon many open markets in full swing. Each vendor squatted on his + heels behind his wares, while the purchasers or traders wandered + here and there making offers. The actual commerce compared with + the amount of laughing, joking, shrieking joy of the occasion as + one to a thousand.</P> + + <P>Generally three or four degenerate looking dirty East Indians + slunk about, very crafty, very insinuating, very ready and + skilful to take what advantages they could. I felt a strong + desire to kick every one of them out from these joyful concourses + of happy people. Generally we sat down for a while in these + markets, and talked to the people a little, and perhaps purchased + some of the delicious fruit. They had a small delicate variety of + banana, most wonderful, the like of which I have seen nowhere + else. We bought forty of these for a coin worth about eight + cents. Besides fruit they offered cocoanuts in all forms, grain, + woven baskets, small articles of handicraft—and fish. The + latter were farther from the sea than they should have been! + These occasional halts greatly refreshed us for more of that + endless road.</P> + + <P>For all this time we were very hot. As the sun mounted, the + country fairly steamed. From the end of my rifle barrel, which I + carried across my forearm, a steady trickle of water dripped into + the road. We neither of us had a dry stitch on us, and our light + garments clung to us thoroughly wet through. At first we tried + the military method, and marched fifty minutes to rest ten, but + soon discovered that twenty-five minutes' work to five minutes + off was more practical. The sheer weight of the sun was terrific; + after we had been exposed to it for any great length of + time—as across several wide open spaces—we entered + the steaming shade of the jungle with gratitude. At the end of + seven hours, however, we most unexpectedly came through a dense + cocoanut grove plump on the banks of the harbour at + Kilindini.</P> + + <P>Here, after making arrangements for the transport of our + safari, when it should arrive, we entrusted ourselves to a small + boy and a cranky boat. An hour later, clad in tropical white, + with cool drinks at our elbows, we sat in easy-chairs on the + veranda of the Mombasa Club.</P> + + <P>The clubhouse is built on a low cliff at the water's edge. It + looks across the blue waters of the bay to a headland crowned + with cocoa-palms, and beyond the headland to the Indian Ocean. + The cool trades sweep across that veranda. We idly watched a lone + white oarsman pulling strongly against the wind through the tide + rips, evidently bent on exercise. We speculated on the incredible + folly of wanting exercise; and forgot him. An hour later a huge + saffron yellow squall rose from China 'cross the way, filled the + world with an unholy light, lashed the reluctant sea to + white-caps, and swooped screaming on the cocoa-palms. Police + boats to rescue the idiot oarsman! Much minor excitement! Great + rushing to and fro! We continued to sit in our lounging chairs, + one hand on our cool long drinks.</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_4_4' id= + "Footnote_4_4"></A><A href='#FNanchor_4_4'>[4]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>For a fuller discussion, see "The Land of Footprints."</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XII' id="XII"></A> + + <H2>XII.</H2> + + <P>THE FIRE.</P><BR> + + <P>We were very tired, so we turned in early. W Unfortunately, + our rooms were immediately over the billiard room, where a + bibulous and cosmopolitan lot were earnestly endeavouring to + bolster up by further proof the fiction that a white man cannot + retain his health in the tropics. The process was pretty rackety, + and while it could not keep us awake, it prevented us from + falling thoroughly asleep. At length, and suddenly, the props of + noise fell away from me, and I sank into a grateful, profound + abyss.</P> + + <P>Almost at once, however, I was dragged back to consciousness. + Mohammed stood at my bedside.</P> + + <P>"Bwana," he proffered to my rather angry inquiry, "all the + people have gone to the fire. It is a very large fire. I thought + you would like to see it."</P> + + <P>I glanced out of the window at the reddening sky, thrust my + feet into a pair of slippers, and went forth in my pyjamas to see + what I could see.</P> + + <P>We threaded our way through many narrow dark and deserted + streets, beneath balconies that overhung, past walls over which + nodded tufted palms, until a loud and increasing murmuring told + us we were nearing the centre of disturbance. Shortly, we came to + the outskirts of the excited crowd, and beyond them saw the red + furnace glow.</P> + + <P>"Semeelay! Semeelay!" warned Mohammed authoritatively; and the + bystanders, seeing a white face, gave me passage.</P> + + <P>All of picturesque Mombasa was afoot—Arabs, Swahilis, + Somalis, savages, Indians—the whole lot. They moved + restlessly in the narrow streets; they hung over the edges of + balconies; they peered from barred windows; interested dark faces + turned up everywhere in the flickering light. One woman, a fine, + erect, biblical figure, stood silhouetted on a flat housetop and + screamed steadily. I thought she must have at least one baby in + the fire, but it seems she was only excited.</P> + + <P>The fire was at present confined to two buildings, in which it + was raging fiercely. Its spread, however, seemed certain; and, as + it was surrounded by warehouses of valuable goods, moving was in + full swing. A frantic white man stood at the low doorway of one + of these dungeon-like stores hastening the movements of an + unending string of porters. As each emerged bearing a case on his + shoulder, the white man urged him to a trot. I followed up the + street to see where these valuables were being taken, and what + were the precautions against theft. Around the next corner, it + seemed. As each excited perspiring porter trotted up, he heaved + his burden from his head or his shoulders, and promptly scampered + back for another load. They were loyal and zealous men; but their + headpieces were deficient inside. For the burdens that they saved + from the fire happened to be cases of gin in bottles. At least, + it was in bottles until the process of saving had been completed. + Then it trickled merrily down the gutter. I went back and told + the frantic white man about it. He threw up both hands to heaven + and departed.</P> + + <P>By dodging from street to street Mohammed and I succeeded in + circling the whole disturbance, and so came at length to a public + square. Here was a vast throng, and a very good place, so I + climbed atop a rescued bale of cotton the better to see.</P> + + <P>Mombasa has no water system, but a wonderful corps of + water-carriers. These were in requisition to a man. They + disappeared down through the wide gates of the customs enclosure, + their naked, muscular, light-brown bodies gleaming with sweat, + their Standard Oil cans dangling merrily at the ends of slender + poles. A moment later they emerged, the cans full of salt water + from the bay, the poles seeming fairly to butt into their bare + shoulders as they teetered along at their rapid, swaying, + burdened gait.</P> + + <P>The moment they entered the square they were seized upon from + a dozen different sides. There was no system at all. Every owner + of property was out for himself, and intended to get as much of + the precious water as he could. The poor carriers were pulled + about, jerked violently here and there, besought, commanded, to + bring their loads to one or the other of the threatened premises. + Vociferations, accusations, commands arose to screams. One old + graybeard occupied himself by standing on tiptoe and screeching, + "Maji! maji! maji!" at the top of his voice, as though that added + anything to the visible supply. The water-carrier of the moment + disappeared in a swirl of excited contestants. He was attending + strictly to business, looking neither to right nor to left, + pushing forward as steadily as he could, gasping mechanically his + customary warning, "Semeelay! Semeelay!" Somehow, eventually, he + and his comrades must have got somewhere; for after an interval + he returned with empty buckets. Then every blessed fool of a + property owner took a whack at his bare shoulders as he passed, + shrieking hysterically, "Haya! haya! pesi! pesi!" and the like to + men already doing their best. It was a grand sight!</P> + + <P>In the meantime the fire itself was roaring away. The old + graybeard suddenly ceased crying "maji," and darted forward to + where I stood on the bale of cotton. With great but somewhat + flurried respect he begged me to descend. I did so, somewhat + curious as to what he might be up to, for the cotton was at least + two hundred feet from the fire. Immediately he began to tug and + heave; the bale was almost beyond his strength; but after + incredible exertions he lifted one side of it, poised it for a + moment, got his shoulder under it, and rolled it over once. Then + he darted away and resumed his raucous cry for water. I climbed + back again. Thrice more, at intervals, he repeated this + performance. The only result was to daub with mud every possible + side of that bale. I hope it was his property.</P> + + <P>You must remember that I was observing the heavy artillery of + the attack on the conflagration. Individual campaigns were + everywhere in progress. I saw one man standing on the roof of a + threatened building. He lowered slowly, hand over hand, a small + tea-kettle at the end of a string. This was filled by a friend in + the street, whereupon the man hauled it up again, slowly, hand + over hand, and solemnly dashed its contents into the mouth of the + furnace. Thousands of other men on roofs, in balconies, on the + street, were doing the same thing. Some had ordinary cups which + they filled a block away! The limit of efficiency was a pail. + Nobody did anything in concert with anybody else. The sight of + these thousands of little midgets each with his teacup, or his + teapot, or his tin pail, throwing each his mite of + water—for which he had to walk a street or so—into + the ravening roaring furnace of flame was as pathetic or as + comical as you please. They did not seem to have a show in the + world.</P> + + <P>Nevertheless, to my vast surprise, the old system of the East + triumphed at last. The system of the East is that if you get + <I>enough</I> labour you can accomplish anything. Little by + little those thousands of tea kettles of water had their + aggregate effect. The flames fed themselves out and died down + leaving the contiguous buildings unharmed save for a little + scorching. In two hours all was safe, and I returned to the + hotel, having enjoyed myself hugely. I had, however, in the + interest and excitement, forgotten how deadly is the fever of + Mombasa. Midnight in pyjamas did the business; and shortly I paid + well for the fun.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='PART_III' id="PART_III"></A> + + <H2>PART III.</H2> + + <P>NAIROBI.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XIII' id="XIII"></A> + + <H2>XIII.</H2> + + <P>UP FROM THE COAST.</P><BR> + + <P>Nairobi is situated at the far edge of the great Athi Plains + and just below a range of hills. It might about as well have been + anywhere else, and perhaps better a few miles back in the higher + country. Whether the funny little narrow-gauge railroad exists + for Nairobi, or Nairobi for the railroad, it would be difficult + to say. Between Mombasa and this interior placed-to-order town, + certainly, there is nothing, absolutely nothing, either in + passengers or freight, to justify building the line. That + distance is, if I remember it correctly, about three hundred and + twenty miles. A dozen or so names of stations appear on the map. + These are water tanks, telegraph stations, or small groups of + tents in which dwell black labourers—on the railroad.</P> + + <P>The way climbs out from the tropical steaming coast belt to + and across the high scrub desert, and then through lower rounded + hills to the plains. On the desert is only dense thorn + brush—and a possibility that the newcomer, if he looks very + closely, may to his excitement see his first game in Africa. This + is a stray duiker or so, tiny grass antelopes a foot high. Also + in this land is thirst; so that alongside the locomotives, as + they struggle up grade, in bad seasons, run natives to catch + precious drops.<A name='FNanchor_5_5' id= + "FNanchor_5_5"></A><A href='#Footnote_5_5'><SUP>[5]</SUP></A> An + impalpable red dust sifts through and into everything. When a man + descends at Voi for dinner he finds his fellow-travellers have + changed complexion. The pale clerk from indoor Mombasa has put on + a fine healthy sunburn; and the company in general present a rich + out-of-doors bloom. A chance dab with a white napkin comes away + like fresh paint, however.</P> + + <P>You clamber back into the compartment, with its latticed sun + shades and its smoked glass windows; you let down the narrow + canvas bunk; you unfold your rug, and settle yourself for repose. + It is a difficult matter. Everything you touch is gritty. The air + is close and stifling, like the smoke-charged air of a tunnel. If + you try to open a window you are suffocated with more of the red + dust. At last you fall into a doze; to awaken nearly frozen! The + train has climbed into what is, after weeks of the tropics, + comparative cold; and if you have not been warned to carry wraps, + you are in danger of pneumonia.</P> + + <P>The gray dawn comes, and shortly, in the sudden tropical + fashion, the full light. You look out on a wide smiling grass + country, with dips and swales, and brushy river bottoms, and long + slopes and hills thrusting up in masses from down below the + horizon, and singly here and there in the immensities nearer at + hand. The train winds and doubles on itself up the gentle slopes + and across the imperceptibly rising plains. But the interest is + not in these wide prospects, beautiful and smiling as they may + be, but in the game. It is everywhere. Far in the distance the + herds twinkle, half guessed in the shimmer of the bottom lands or + dotting the sides of the hills. Nearer at hand it stares as the + train rumbles and sways laboriously past. Occasionally it even + becomes necessary to whistle aside some impertinent kongoni that + has placed himself between the metals! The newcomer has but a + theoretical knowledge at best of all these animals; and he is + intensely interested in identifying the various species. The + hartebeeste and the wildebeeste he learns quickly enough, and of + course the zebra and the giraffe are unmistakable; but the + smaller gazelles are legitimate subjects for discussion. The + wonder of the extraordinary abundance of these wild animals + mounts as the hours slip by. At the stops for water or for orders + the passengers gather from their different compartments to detail + excitedly to each other what they have seen. There is always an + honest superenthusiast who believes he has seen rhinoceroses, + lions, or leopards. He is looked upon with envy by the credulous, + and with exasperation by all others.</P> + + <P>So the little train puffs and tugs along. Suddenly it happens + on a barbed wire fence, and immediately after enters the town of + Nairobi. The game has persisted right up to that barbed wire + fence.</P> + + <P>The station platform is thronged with a heterogeneous + multitude of people. The hands of a dozen raggetty black boys are + stretched out for luggage. The newcomer sees with delight a + savage with a tin can in his stretched ear lobe; another with a + set of wooden skewers set fanwise around the edge of the ear; he + catches a glimpse of a beautiful naked creature very proud, very + decorated with beads and heavy polished wire. Then he is ravished + away by the friend, or agent, or hotel representative who has met + him, and hurried out through the gates between the impassive and + dignified Sikh sentries to the cab. I believe nobody but the + newcomer ever rides in the cab; and then but once, from the + station to the hotel. After that he uses rickshaws. In fact it is + probable that the cab is maintained for the sole purpose of + giving the newcomer a grand and impressive entrance. This brief + fleeting quarter hour of glory is unique and passes. It is like + crossing the Line, or the first kiss, something that in its + nature cannot be repeated.</P> + + <P>The cab was once a noble vehicle, compounded of opulent + curves, with a very high driver's box in front, a little let-down + bench, and a deep, luxurious, shell-shaped back seat, reclining + in which one received the adulation of the populace. That was in + its youth. Now in its age the varnish is gone; the upholstery of + the back seat frayed; the upholstery of the small seat lacking + utterly, so that one sits on bare boards. In place of two + dignifiedly spirited fat white horses, it is drawn by two very + small mules in a semi-detached position far ahead. And how it + rattles!</P> + + <P>Between the station and the hotel at Nairobi is a long + straight wide well-made street, nearly a mile long, and bordered + by a double row of young eucalyptus. These latter have changed + the main street of Nairobi from the sunbaked array of galvanized + houses described by travellers of a half dozen years back to a + thoroughfare of great charm. The iron houses and stores are now + in a shaded background; and the attention is freed to concentrate + on the vivid colouring, the incessant movement, the great + interest of the people moving to and fro. When I left Nairobi the + authorities were considering the removal of these trees, because + one row of them had been planted slightly within the legal limits + of the street. What they could interfere with in a practically + horseless town I cannot imagine, but I trust this stupidity gave + way to second thought.</P> + + <P>The cab rattles and careers up the length of the street, + scattering rickshaws and pedestrians from before its triumphant + path. To the left opens a wide street of little booths under iron + awnings, hung with gay colour and glittering things. The street + is thronged from side to side with natives of all sorts. It + whirls past, and shortly after the cab dashes inside a fence and + draws up before the low stone-built, wide-verandahed hotel.</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_5_5' id= + "Footnote_5_5"></A><A href='#FNanchor_5_5'>[5]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>The Government does much nowadays by means of tank cars.</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XIV' id="XIV"></A> + + <H2>XIV.</H2> + + <P>A TOWN OF CONTRASTS.</P><BR> + + <P>It has been, as I have said, the fashion to speak of Nairobi + as an ugly little town. This was probably true when the first + corrugated iron houses huddled unrelieved near the railway + station. It is not true now. The lower part of town is well + planted, and is always picturesque as long as its people are + astir. The white population have built in the wooded hills some + charming bungalows surrounded by bright flowers or lost amid the + trunks of great trees. From the heights on which is Government + House one can, with a glass, watch the game herds feeding on the + plains. Two clubs, with the usual games of golf, polo, + tennis—especially tennis—football and cricket; a + weekly hunt, with jackals instead of foxes; a bungalow town club + on the slope of a hill; an electric light system; a race track; a + rifle range; frilly parasols and the latest fluffiest summer + toilettes from London and Paris—I mention a few of the + refinements of civilization that offer to the traveller some of + the most piquant of contrasts.</P> + + <P>For it must not be forgotten that Nairobi, in spite of these + things—due to the direct but slender thread of + communication by railroad and ships—is actually in the + middle of an African wilderness—is a black man's town, as + far as numbers go.<A name='FNanchor_6_6' id= + "FNanchor_6_6"></A><A href='#Footnote_6_6'><SUP>[6]</SUP></A></P> + + <P>The game feeds to its very outskirts, even wanders into the + streets at night.<A name='FNanchor_7_7' id= + "FNanchor_7_7"></A><A href='#Footnote_7_7'><SUP>[7]</SUP></A> + Lions may be heard roaring within a mile or so of town; and + leopards occasionally at night come on the verandas of the + outlying dwellings. Naked savages from the jungle untouched by + civilization in even the minutest particular wander the streets + unabashed.</P> + + <P>It is this constantly recurring, sharply drawn contrast that + gives Nairobi its piquant charm. As one sits on the broad hotel + veranda a constantly varied pageant passes before him. A daintily + dressed, fresh-faced Englishwoman bobs by in a smart rickshaw + drawn by two uniformed runners; a Kikuyu, anointed, curled, + naked, brass adorned, teeters along, an expression of + satisfaction on his face; a horseman, well appointed, trots + briskly by followed by his loping syce; a string of skin-clad + women, their heads fantastically shaved, heavily ornamented, lean + forward under the burden of firewood for the market; a beautiful + baby in a frilled perambulator is propelled by a tall, solemn, + fine-looking black man in white robe and cap; the driver of a + high cart tools his animal past a creaking, clumsy, two-wheeled + wagon drawn by a pair of small humpbacked native oxen. And so it + goes, all day long, without end. The public rickshaw boys just + across the way chatter and game and quarrel and keep a watchful + eye out for a possible patron on whom to charge vociferously and + full tilt. Two or three old-timers with white whiskers and red + faces continue to slaughter thousands and thousands and thousands + of lions from the depths of their easy chairs.</P> + + <P>The stone veranda of that hotel is a very interesting place. + Here gather men from all parts of East Africa, from Uganda, and + the jungles of the Upper Congo. At one time or another all the + famous hunters drop into its canvas chairs—Cunninghame, + Allan Black, Judd, Outram, Hoey, and the others; white traders + with the natives of distant lands; owners of farms experimenting + bravely on a greater or lesser scale in a land whose difficulties + are just beginning to be understood; great naturalists and + scientists from the governments of the earth, eager to observe + and collect this interesting and teeming fauna; and sportsmen + just out and full of interest, or just returned and modestly + important. More absorbing conversation can be listened to on this + veranda than in any other one place in the world. The gathering + is cosmopolitan; it is representative of the most active of every + social, political, and racial element; it has done things; it + contemplates vital problems from the vantage ground of + experience. The talk veers from pole to pole—and returns + always to lions.</P> + + <P>Every little while a native—a raw savage—comes + along and takes up a stand just outside the railing. He stands + there mute and patient for five minutes—a half + hour—until some one, any one, happens to notice him.</P> + + <P>"N'jo!—come here!" commands this person.</P> + + <P>The savage silently proffers a bit of paper on which is + written the name of the one with whom he has business.</P> + + <P>"Nenda officie!" indicates the charitable person waving his + hand towards the hotel office.</P> + + <P>Then, and not until this permission has been given by some + one, dares the savage cross the threshold to do his errand.</P> + + <P>If the messenger happens to be a trained houseboy, however, + dressed in his uniform of khaki or his more picturesque white + robe and cap, he is privileged to work out his own salvation. And + behind the hotel are rows and rows of other boys, each waiting + patiently the pleasure of his especial bwana lounging at ease + after strenuous days. At the drawling shout of "boy!" one of them + instantly departs to find out which particular boy is wanted.</P> + + <P>The moment any white man walks to the edge of the veranda a + half-dozen of the rickshaws across the street career madly around + the corners of the fence, bumping, colliding, careening + dangerously, to drop beseechingly in serried confusion close + around the step. The rickshaw habit is very strong in Nairobi. If + a man wants to go a hundred yards down the street he takes a + rickshaw for that stupendous journey. There is in justification + the legend that the white man should not exert himself in the + tropics. I fell into the custom of the country until I reflected + that it would hardly be more fatal to me to walk a half-hour in + the streets of Nairobi than to march six or seven hours—as + I often did—when on safari or in the hunting field. After + that I got a little exercise, to the vast scandal of the rickshaw + boys. In fact, so unusual was my performance that at first I had + fairly to clear myself a way with my kiboko. After a few + experiences they concluded me a particularly crazy person and let + me alone.</P> + + <P>Rickshaws, however, are very efficient and very cheap. The + runners, two in number, are lithe little round-headed Kavirondos, + generally, their heads shaved to leave a skull cap, clad in scant + ragged garments, and wearing each an anklet of little bells. + Their passion for ornament they confine to small bright things in + their hair and ears. They run easily, with a very long stride. + Even steep hills they struggle up somehow, zigzagging from one + side of the road to the other, edging along an inch or so at a + time. In such places I should infinitely have preferred to have + walked, but that would have lost me caste everywhere. There are + limits even to a crazy man's idiosyncrasies. For that reason I + never thoroughly enjoyed rickshaws, save along the level ways + with bells jingling and feet patpatting a rapid time. Certainly I + did not enjoy them going down the steep hills. The boy between + the shafts in front hits the landscape about every forty feet. I + do not really object to sudden death, but this form of it seemed + unfair to some poor hungry lion.</P> + + <P>However, the winding smooth roads among the forested, shaded + bungalows of the upper part of town were very attractive, + especially towards evening. At that time the universal sun-helmet + or double terai could be laid aside for straw hats, cloth caps, + or bare heads. People played the more violent games, or strolled + idly. At the hotel there was now a good deal of foolish drinking; + foolish, because in this climate it is very bad for the human + system, and in these surroundings of much interest and excitement + the relief of its exaltation from monotony or ennui or routine + could hardly be required.</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_6_6' id= + "Footnote_6_6"></A><A href='#FNanchor_6_6'>[6]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>Fifteen hundred whites to twelve thousand natives, + approximately.</P> + </DIV><A name='Footnote_7_7' id="Footnote_7_7"></A><A href= + '#FNanchor_7_7'>[7]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>This happened twice while I was in the country.</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XV' id="XV"></A> + + <H2>XV.</H2> + + <P>PEOPLE.</P><BR> + + <P>Considered as a class rather than as individuals, the + dark-skinned population is easily the more interesting. + Considered as individuals, the converse is true. Men like Sir + Percy Girouard, Hobley, Jackson, Lord Delamere, McMillan, + Cunninghame, Allan Black, Leslie Tarleton, Vanderweyer, the Hill + cousins, Horne, and a dozen others are nowhere else to be met in + so small a community. But the whites have developed nothing in + their relations one to another essentially different. The artisan + and shopkeeping class dwell on the flats; the Government people + and those of military connections live on the heights on one side + of the little stream; the civil service and bigger business men + among the hills on the other. Between them all is a little + jealousy, and contempt, and condescension; just as there is + jealousy, and contempt, and condescension elsewhere. They are + pleasant people, and hospitable, and some of them very + distinguished in position or achievement; and I am glad to say I + have good friends among them.</P> + + <P>But the native is the joy, and the never-ceasing delight. For + his benefit is the wide, glittering, colourful, insanitary + bazaar, with its dozens of little open-air veranda shops, its + "hotels" where he can sit in a real chair and drink real tea, its + cafes, and the dark mysteries of its more doubtful amusements. + The bazaar is right in the middle of town, just where it ought + not to be, and it is constantly being quarantined, and threatened + with removal. It houses a large population mysteriously, for it + is of slight extent. Then on the borders of town are the two + great native villages—one belonging to the Somalis, and the + other hospitably accommodating the swarms of caravan porters and + their families. For, just as in old days Mombasa and Zanzibar + used to be the points from which caravans into the interior would + set forth, now Nairobi outfits the majority of expeditions. + Probably ten thousand picked natives of various tribes are + engaged in the profession. Of course but a small proportion of + this number is ever at home at any one time; but the village is a + large one. Both these villages are built in the native style, of + plaster and thatch; have their own headman government—under + supervision—and are kept pretty well swept out and tidy. + Besides these three main gathering places are many camps and + "shambas"<A name='FNanchor_8_8' id="FNanchor_8_8"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_8_8'><SUP>[8]</SUP></A> scattered everywhere; and the + back country counts millions of raw jungle savages, only too glad + to drift in occasionally for a look at the metropolis.</P> + + <P>At first the newcomer is absolutely bewildered by the variety + of these peoples; but after a little he learns to differentiate. + The Somalis are perhaps the first recognizable, with their finely + chiselled, intelligent, delicate brown features, their slender + forms, and their strikingly picturesque costumes of turbans, + flowing robes, and embroidered sleeveless jackets. Then he learns + to distinguish the savage from the sophisticated dweller of the + town. Later comes the identification of the numerous tribes.</P> + + <P>The savage comes in just as he has been for, ethnologists + alone can guess, how many thousands of years. He is too old an + institution to have been affected as yet by this tiny spot of + modernity in the middle of the wilderness. As a consequence he + startles the newcomer even more than the sight of giraffes on the + sky-line.</P> + + <P>When the shenzi—wild man—comes to town he gathers + in two or three of his companions, and presents himself as + follows: His hair has been grown quite long, then gathered in + three tight pigtails wound with leather, one of which hangs over + his forehead, and the other two over his ears. The entire head he + has then anointed with a mixture of castor oil and a bright red + colouring earth. This is wiped away evenly all around the face, + about two inches below the hair, to leave a broad, bandlike + glistening effect around the entire head. The ears are most + marvellous. From early youth the lobes have been stretched, until + at last they have become like two long elastic loops, hanging + down upon the shoulder, and capable of accommodating anything up + to and including a tomato can. When in fatigue uniform these + loops are caught up over the tops of the ears, but on dress + parade they accommodate almost anything considered ornamental. I + have seen a row of safety pins clasped in them or a number of + curtain rings; or a marmalade jar, or the glittering cover of a + tobacco tin. The edges of the ears, all around to the top, are + then pierced. Then the insertion of a row of long white wooden + skewers gives one a peculiarly porcupinish look; or a row of + little brass danglers hints of wealth. Having thus finished off + his head, your savage clasps around his neck various strings of + beads; or collars of iron or copper wire, polished to the point + of glitter; puts on a half-dozen armlets and leglets of the same; + ties on a narrow bead belt, in which is thrust a short sword; + anoints himself all over with reddened castor oil until he + glistens and shines in the sun; rubs his legs with white clay and + traces patterns therein; seizes his long-bladed spear, and is + ready for the city. Oh, no! I forgot—and he probably came + near doing so—his strip of 'Mericani.<A name='FNanchor_9_9' + id="FNanchor_9_9"></A><A href='#Footnote_9_9'><SUP>[9]</SUP></A> + This was originally white, but constant wear over castor oil has + turned it a uniform and beautiful brown.</P> + + <P>The purpose of this is ornament, and it is so worn. There has + been an attempt, I understand, to force these innocent children + to some sort of conventional decency while actually in the + streets of Nairobi. It was too large an order. Some bring in + clothes, to be sure, because the white man asks it; but why no + sensible man could say. They are hung from one shoulder, flap + merrily in the breeze, and are always quite frankly tucked up + about the neck or under the arms when the wearer happens to be in + haste. As a matter of fact these savages are so beautifully and + smoothly formed; their red-brown or chocolate-brown skin is so + fine in texture, and their complete unconsciousness so genuine + that in an hour the newcomer is quite accustomed to their + nakedness.</P> + + <P>These proud youths wander mincingly down the street with an + expression of the most fatuous and good-natured satisfaction with + themselves. To their minds they have evidently done every last + thing that human ingenuity or convention could encompass.</P> + + <P>These young men are the dandies, the proud young aristocracy + of wealth and importance; and of course they may differ + individually or tribally from the sample I have offered. Also + there are many other social grades. Those who care less for dress + or have less to get it with can rub along very cheaply. The only + real essentials are (<I>a</I>) something for the ear—a + tomato can will do; (<I>b</I>) a trifle for clothing—and + for that a scrap of gunny sacking will be quite enough.</P> + + <P>The women to be seen in the streets of Nairobi are mostly of + the Kikuyu tribe. They are pretty much of a pattern. Their heads + are shaven, either completely or to leave only ornamental tufts; + and are generally bound with a fine wire fillet so tightly that + the strands seem to sink into the flesh. A piece of cotton cloth, + dyed dark umber red, is belted around the waist, and sometimes, + but not always, another is thrown about the shoulder. They go in + for more hardware than do the men. The entire arms and the calves + of the legs are encased in a sort of armour made of quarter-inch + wire wound closely, and a collar of the same material stands out + like a ruff eight or ten inches around the neck. This is wound on + for good; and must be worn day and night and all the time, a + cumbersome and tremendously heavy burden. A dozen large loops of + coloured beads strung through the ears, and various strings and + necklaces of beads, cowrie shells, and the like finish them out + in all their gorgeousness. They would sink like plummets. Their + job in life, besides lugging all this stuff about, is to carry in + firewood and forage. At any time of the day long files of them + can be seen bending forward under their burdens. These they carry + on their backs by means of a strap across the tops of their + heads; after the fashion of the Canadian tump line.</P> + + <P>The next cut above the shenzi, or wild man, is the individual + who has been on safari as carrier, or has otherwise been much + employed around white men. From this experience he has acquired + articles of apparel and points of view. He is given to ragged + khaki, or cast-off garments of all sorts, but never to shoes. + This hint of the conventional only serves to accent the little + self-satisfied excursions he makes into barbarism. The shirt is + always worn outside, the ear ornaments are as varied as ever, the + head is shaved in strange patterns, a tiny tight tuft on the + crown is useful as fastening for feathers or little streamers or + anything else that will wave or glitter. One of these individuals + wore a red label he had, with patience and difficulty, removed + from one of our trunks. He had pasted it on his forehead; and it + read "Baggage Room. Not Wanted." These people are, after all, but + modified shenzis. The modification is nearly always in the + direction of the comic.</P> + + <P>Now we step up to a class that would resent being called + shenzis as it would resent an insult. This is the personal + servant class. The members are of all tribes, with possibly a + slight preponderance of Swahilis and Somalis. They are a very + clean, well-groomed, self-respecting class, with a great deal of + dignity, and a great deal of pride in their bwanas. Also they are + exceedingly likely to degenerate unless ruled with a firm hand + and a wise head. Very rarely are they dishonest as respects the + possessions of their own masters. They understand their work + perfectly, and the best of them get the equivalent of from eight + to ten dollars a month. Every white individual has one or more of + them; even the tiny children with their ridiculous little sun + helmets are followed everywhere by a tall, solemn, white-robed + black. Their powers of divination approach the uncanny. About the + time you begin to think of wanting something, and are making a + first helpless survey of a boyless landscape, your own servant + suddenly, mysteriously, and unobtrusively appears from nowhere. + Where he keeps himself, where he feeds himself, where he sleeps + you do not know. These beautifully clean, trim, dignified people + are always a pleasant feature in the varied picture.</P> + + <P>The Somalis are a clan by themselves. A few of them condescend + to domestic service, but the most prefer the free life of + traders, horse dealers, gunbearers, camel drivers, labour + go-betweens, and similar guerrilla occupations. They are + handsome, dashing, proud, treacherous, courageous, likeable, + untrustworthy. They career around on their high, short-stirruped + saddles; they saunter indolently in small groups; they hang about + the hotel hoping for a dicker of some kind. There is nothing of + the savage about them, but much of the true barbarism, with the + barbarian's pride, treachery, and love of colour.</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_8_8' id= + "Footnote_8_8"></A><A href='#FNanchor_8_8'>[8]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>Native farmlets, generally temporary.</P> + </DIV><A name='Footnote_9_9' id="Footnote_9_9"></A><A href= + '#FNanchor_9_9'>[9]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>White cotton cloth.</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XVI' id="XVI"></A> + + <H2>XVI.</H2> + + <P>RECRUITING.</P><BR> + + <P>To the traveller Nairobi is most interesting as the point from + which expeditions start and to which they return. Doubtless an + extended stay in the country would show him that problems of + administration and possibilities of development could be even + more absorbing; but such things are very sketchy to him at + first.</P> + + <P>As a usual thing, when he wants porters he picks them out from + the throng hanging around the big outfitters' establishments. + Each man is then given a blanket—cotton, but of a most + satisfying red—a tin water bottle, a short stout cord, and + a navy blue jersey. After that ceremony he is yours.</P> + + <P>But on the occasion of one three months' journey into + comparatively unknown country we ran up against difficulties. + Some two weeks before our contemplated start two or three cases + of bubonic plague had been discovered in the bazaar, and as a + consequence Nairobi was quarantined. This meant that a rope had + been stretched around the infected area, that the shops had been + closed, and that no native could—officially—leave + Nairobi. The latter provision affected us; for under it we should + be unable to get our bearers out.</P> + + <P>As a matter of fact, the whole + performance—unofficially—was a farce. Natives + conversed affably at arm's length across the ropes; hundreds + sneaked in and out of town at will; and from the rear of the + infected area I personally saw beds, chests, household goods, + blankets, and clothes passed to friends outside the ropes. When + this latter condition was reported, in my presence, to the + medical officers, they replied that this was a matter for police + cognizance! But the brave outward show of ropes, disinfectants, + gorgeous sentries—in front—and official inspection + went solemnly on. Great, even in Africa, is the god of red + tape.</P> + + <P>Our only possible plan, in the circumstances, was to recruit + the men outside the town, to camp them somewhere, march them + across country to a way station, and there embark them. Our goods + and safari stores we could then ship out to them by train.</P> + + <P>Accordingly we rode on bicycles out to the Swahili + village.</P> + + <P>This is, as I have said, composed of large "beehive" houses + thatched conically with straw. The roofs extend to form verandas + beneath which sit indolent damsels, their hair divided in + innumerable tiny parts running fore and aft like the stripes on a + water melon; their figured 'Mericani garments draped gracefully. + As befitted the women of plutocrats, they wore much jewellery, + some of it set in their noses. Most of them did all of nothing, + but some sat half buried in narrow strips of bright-coloured + tissue paper. These they were pasting together like rolls of + tape, the coloured edges of the paper forming concentric patterns + on the resultant discs—an infinite labour. The discs, when + completed, were for insertion in the lobes of the ears.</P> + + <P>When we arrived the irregular "streets" of the village were + nearly empty, save for a few elegant youths, in long kanzuas, or + robes of cinnamon colour and spotless white, on their heads + fezzes or turbans, in their hands slender rattan canes. They were + very busy talking to each other, and of course did not notice the + idle beauties beneath the verandas.</P> + + <P>Hardly had we appeared, however, when mysteriously came forth + the headman—a bearded, solemn, Arab-like person with a + phenomenally ugly face but a most pleasing smile. We told him we + wanted porters. He clapped his hands. To the four young men who + answered this summons he gave a command. From sleepy indolence + they sprang into life. To the four cardinal points of the compass + they darted away, running up and down the side streets, beating + on the doors, screaming at the tops of their lungs the word + "Cazi"<A name='FNanchor_10_10' id="FNanchor_10_10"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_10_10'><SUP>[10]</SUP></A> over and over again.</P> + + <P>The village hummed like a wasps' nest. Men poured from the + huts in swarms. The streets were filled; the idle sauntering + youths were swamped, and sunk from view. Clamour and shouting + arose where before had been a droning silence. The mob beat up to + where we stood, surrounding us, shouting at us. From somewhere + some one brought an old table and two decrepit chairs, battered + and rickety in themselves, but symbols of great authority in a + community where nobody habitually used either. Two naked boys + proudly took charge of our bicycles.</P> + + <P>We seated ourselves.</P> + + <P>"Fall in!" we yelled.</P> + + <P>About half the crowd fell into rough lines. The rest drew + slightly to one side. Nobody stopped talking for a single + instant.</P> + + <P>We arose and tackled our job. The first part of it was to + segregate the applicants into their different tribes.</P> + + <P>"Monumwezi hapa!" we yelled; and the command was repeated and + repeated again by the headman, by his four personal assistants, + by a half-dozen lesser headmen. Slowly the Monumwezi drew aside. + We impressed on them emphatically they must stay thus, and went + after, in turn, the Baganda, the Wakamba, the Swahilis, the + Kavirondo, the Kikuyu. When we had them grouped, we went over + them individually. We punched their chests, we ran over all their + joints, we examined their feet, we felt their muscles. Our + victims stood rigidly at inspection, but their numerous friends + surrounded us closely, urging the claims of the man to our + notice. It was rather confusing, but we tried to go at it as + though we were alone in a wilderness. If the man passed muster we + motioned him to a rapidly growing group.</P> + + <P>When we had finished we had about sixty men segregated. Then + we went over this picked lot again. This time we tried not only + to get good specimens, but to mix our tribes. At last our count + of twenty-nine was made up, and we took a deep breath. But to us + came one of them complaining that he was a Monumwezi, and that we + had picked only three Monumwezi, and—We cut him short. His + contention was quite correct. A porter tent holds five, and it + does not do to mix tribes. Reorganization! Cut out two extra + Kavirondos, and include two more Monumwezi. "Bass! finished! Now + go get your effects. We start immediately."</P> + + <P>As quickly as it had filled, the street cleared. The rejected + dived back into their huts, the newly enlisted carriers went to + collect their baggage. Only remained the headman and his + fierce-faced assistants, and the splendid youths idling up and + down—none of them had volunteered, you may be + sure—and the damsels of leisure beneath the porticos. Also + one engaging and peculiar figure hovering near.</P> + + <P>This individual had been particularly busy during our + recruiting. He had hustled the men into line, he had advised us + for or against different candidates, he had loudly sung my + praises as a man to work for, although, of course, he knew + nothing about me. Now he approached, saluted, smiled. He was a + tall, slenderly-built person, with phenomenally long, thin legs, + slightly rounded shoulders, a forward thrust, keen face, and + remarkably long, slim hands. With these he gesticulated much, in + a right-angled fashion, after the manner of Egyptian + hieroglyphical figures. He was in no manner shenzi. He wore a + fez, a neat khaki coat and shorts, blue puttees and boots. Also a + belt with leather pockets, a bunch of keys, a wrist watch, and a + seal ring. His air was of great elegance and social ease. We took + him with us as C.'s gunbearer. He proved staunch, a good tracker, + an excellent hunter, and a most engaging individual. His name was + Kongoni, and he was a Wakamba.</P> + + <P>But now we were confronted with a new problem: that of getting + our twenty-nine chosen ones together again. They had totally + disappeared. In all directions we had emissaries beating up the + laggards. As each man reappeared carrying his little bundle, we + lined him up with his companions. Then when we turned our backs + we lost him again; he had thought of another friend with whom to + exchange farewells. At the long last, however, we got them all + collected. The procession started, the naked boys proudly + wheeling our bikes alongside. We saw them fairly clear of + everything, then turned them over to Kongoni, while we returned + to Nairobi to see after our effects.</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_10_10' id= + "Footnote_10_10"></A><A href='#FNanchor_10_10'>[10]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>Work.</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='PART_IV' id="PART_IV"></A> + + <H2>PART IV. A LION HUNT ON KAPITI.</H2> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XVII' id="XVII"></A> + + <H2>XVII.</H2> + + <P>AN OSTRICH FARM AT MACHAKOS.</P><BR> + + <P>This has to do with a lion hunt on the Kapiti Plains. On the + veranda at Nairobi I had some time previous met Clifford Hill, + who had invited me to visit him at the ostrich farm he and his + cousin were running in the mountains near Machakos. Some time + later, a visit to Juja Farm gave me the opportunity. Juja is only + a day's ride from the Hills'. So an Africander, originally from + the south, Captain D., and I sent across a few carriers with our + personal effects, and ourselves rode over on horseback.</P> + + <P>Juja is on the Athi Plains. Between the Athi and Kapiti Plains + runs a range of low mountains around the end of which one can + make his way as around a promontory. The Hills' ostrich farm was + on the highlands in the bay on the other side of the + promontory.</P> + + <P>It was towards the close of the rainy season, and the rivers + were up. We had to swim our horses within a half-mile of Juja, + and got pretty wet. Shortly after crossing the Athi, however, + five miles on, we emerged on the dry, drained slopes from the + hills. Here the grass was long, and the ticks plentiful. Our + horses' legs and chests were black with them; and when we + dismounted for lunch we ourselves were almost immediately alive + with the pests. In this very high grass the game was rather + scarce, but after we had climbed by insensible grades to the + shorter growth we began to see many hartebeeste, zebra, and + gazelles, and a few of the wildebeeste, or brindled gnus. Travel + over these great plains and through these leisurely low hills is + a good deal like coastwise sailing—the same apparently + unattainable landmarks which, nevertheless, are at last passed + and left astern by the same sure but insensible progress. Thus we + drew up on apparently continuous hills, found wide gaps between + them, crossed them, and turned to the left along the other side + of the promontory. About five o'clock we came to the Hills'.</P> + + <P>The ostrich farm is situated on the very top of a conical rise + that sticks up like an island close inshore to the semicircle of + mountains in which end the vast plains of Kapiti. Thus the Hills + have at their backs and sides these solid ramparts and face + westward the immensities of space. For Kapiti goes on over the + edge of the world to unknown, unguessed regions, rolling and + troubled like a sea. And from that unknown, on very still days, + the snowy peak of Kilimanjaro peers out, sketched as faintly + against the sky as a soap bubble wafted upward and about to + disappear. Here and there on the plains kopjes stand like + islands, their stone tops looking as though thrust through the + smooth prairie surface from beneath. To them meandered long, + narrow ravines full of low brush, like thin, wavering streaks of + gray. On these kopjes—each of which had its name—and + in these ravines we were to hunt lions.</P> + + <P>We began the ascent of the cone on which dwelt our hosts. It + was one of those hills that seem in no part steep, and yet which + finally succeed in raising one to a considerable height. We + passed two ostrich herds in charge of savages, rode through a + scattered native village, and so came to the farm itself, + situated on the very summit.</P> + + <P>The house consisted of three large circular huts, thatched + neatly with papyrus stalks, and with conical roofs. These were + arranged as a triangle, just touching each other; and the space + between had been roofed over to form a veranda. We were ushered + into one of these circular rooms. It was spacious and contained + two beds, two chairs, a dresser, and a table. Its earth floor was + completely covered by the skins of animals. In the corresponding + room, opposite, slept our hosts; while the third was the living + and dining room. A long table, raw-hide bottomed chairs, a large + sideboard, bookcases, a long easy settee with pillows, gun racks, + photographs in and out of frames, a table with writing materials, + and books and magazines everywhere—not to speak of again + the skins of many animals completely covering the floor. Out + behind, in small, separate buildings, laboured the cook, and + dwelt the stores, the bath-tub, and other such necessary + affairs.</P> + + <P>As soon as we had consumed the usual grateful lime juice and + sparklets, we followed our hosts into the open air to look + around.</P> + + <P>On this high, airy hill top the Hills some day are going to + build them a real house. In anticipation they have laid out + grounds and have planted many things. In examining these my + California training stood by me. Out there, as here, one so often + examines his own and his neighbours' gardens, not for what they + are but for what they shall become. His imagination can exalt + this tiny seedling to the impressiveness of spreading noontime + shade; can magnify yonder apparent duplicate to the full symmetry + of a shrub; can ruthlessly diminish the present importance of + certain grand and lofty growths to its true status of flower or + animal. So from a dead uniformity of size he casts forward in the + years to a pleasing variation of shade, of jungle, of open glade, + of flowered vista; and he goes away full of expert admiration for + "X.'s bully garden." With this solid training beneath me I was + able on this occasion to please immensely.</P> + + <P>From the house site we descended the slope to where the + ostriches and the cattle and the people were in the late sunlight + swarming upward from the plains pastures below. These people + were, to the chief extent, Wakamba, quite savage, but attracted + here by the justness and fair dealing of the Hills. Some of them + farmed on shares with the Hills, the white men furnishing the + land and seed, and the black men the labour; some of them + laboured on wage; some few herded cattle or ostriches; some were + hunters and took the field only when, as now, serious business + was afoot. They had their complete villages, with priests, witch + doctors, and all; and they seemed both contented and fond of the + two white men.</P> + + <P>As we walked about we learned much of the ostrich business; + and in the course of our ten days' visit we came to a better + realization of how much there is to think of in what appears + basically so simple a proposition.</P> + + <P>In the nesting time, then, the Hills went out over the open + country, sometimes for days at a time, armed with long high-power + telescopes. With these fearsome and unwieldy instruments they + surveyed the country inch by inch from the advantage of a kopje. + When thus they discovered a nest, they descended and appropriated + the eggs. The latter, hatched at home in an incubator, formed the + nucleus of a flock.</P> + + <P>Pass the raising of ostrich chicks to full size through the + difficulties of disease, wild beasts, and sheer cussedness. Of + the resultant thirty birds or so of the season's catch, but two + or three will even promise good production. These must be bred in + captivity with other likely specimens. Thus after several years + the industrious ostrich farmer may become possessed of a few + really prime birds. To accumulate a proper flock of such in a new + country is a matter of a decade or so. Extra prime birds are as + well known and as much in demand for breeding as any blood horse + in a racing country. Your true ostrich enthusiast, like the + Hills, possesses trunks full of feathers not good commercially, + but intensely interesting for comparison and for the purposes of + prophecy. While I stayed with them came a rumour of a very fine + plucking a distant neighbour had just finished from a likely + two-year-old. The Hills were manifestly uneasy until one of them + had ridden the long distance to compare this newcomer's product + with that of their own two-year-olds. And I shall never forget + the reluctantly admiring shake of the head with which he + acknowledged that it was indeed a "very fine feather!"</P> + + <P>But getting the birds is by no means all of ostrich farming, + as many eager experimenters have discovered to their cost. The + birds must have a certain sort of pasture land; and their + paddocks must be built on an earth that will not soil or break + the edges of the new plumes.</P> + + <P>And then there is the constant danger of wild beasts. When a + man has spent years in gathering suitable flocks, he cannot be + blamed for wild anger when, as happened while I was in the + country, lions kill sixty or seventy birds in a night. The + ostrich seems to tempt lions greatly. The beasts will make their + way through and over the most complicated defences. Any ostrich + farmer's life is a constant warfare against them. Thus the Hills + had slain sixty-eight lions in and near their farm—a + tremendous record. Still the beasts continued to come in. My + hosts showed me, with considerable pride, their arrangements + finally evolved for night protection.</P> + + <P>The ostriches were confined in a series of heavy corrals, + segregating the birds of different ages. Around the outside of + this group of enclosures ran a wide ring corral in which were + confined the numerous cattle; and as an outer wall to this were + built the huts of the Wakamba village. Thus to penetrate to the + ostriches the enterprising lion would have to pass both the + people, the cattle, and the strong thorn and log structures that + contained them.</P> + + <P>This subject brings me to another set of acquaintances we had + already made—the dogs.</P> + + <P>These consisted of an Airedale named Ruby; two setters called + Wayward and Girlie; a heavy black mongrel, Nero; ditto brindle, + Ben; and a smaller black and white ditto, Ranger. They were very + nice friendly doggy dogs, but they did not look like lion + hunters. Nevertheless, Hill assured us that they were of great + use in the sport, and promised us that on the following day we + should see just how.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XVIII' id="XVIII"></A> + + <H2>XVIII</H2> + + <P>THE FIRST LIONESS.</P><BR> + + <P>At an early hour we loaded our bedding, food, tents, and camp + outfit on a two-wheeled wagon drawn by four of the humpbacked + native oxen, and sent it away across the plains, with + instructions to make camp on a certain kopje. Clifford Hill and + myself, accompanied by our gunbearers and syces, then rode + leisurely down the length of a shallow brushy cañon for a + mile or so. There we dismounted and sat down to await the arrival + of the others. These—including Harold Hill, Captain D., + five or six Wakamba spearmen, our own carriers, and the + dogs—came along more slowly, beating the bottoms on the off + chance of game.</P> + + <P>The sun was just warming, and the bees and insects were + filling the air with their sleepy droning sounds. The hillside + opposite showed many little outcrops of rocks so like the hills + of our own Western States that it was somewhat difficult to + realize that we were in Africa. For some reason the delay was + long. Then suddenly all four of us simultaneously saw the same + thing. A quarter-mile away and on the hillside opposite a + magnificent lioness came loping easily along through the grass. + She looked very small at that distance, like a toy, and quite + unhurried. Indeed, every few moments she paused to look back in + an annoyed fashion over her shoulder in the direction of the row + behind her.</P> + + <P>There was nothing to do but sit tight and wait. The lioness + was headed exactly to cross our front; nor, except at one point, + was she at all likely to deviate. A shallow tributary ravine ran + into our own about two hundred yards away. She might possibly + sneak down the bed of this. It seemed unlikely. The going was + bad, and in addition she had no idea as yet that she had been + sighted. Indeed, the chances were that she would come to a + definite stop before making the crossing, in which case we would + get a shot.</P> + + <P>"And if she does go down the donga," whispered Hill, "the dogs + will locate her."</P> + + <P>Sitting still while things approach is always exciting. This + is true of ducks; but when you multiply ducks by lions it is + still more true. We all crouched very low in the grass. She leapt + without hesitation into the ravine—and did not emerge.</P> + + <P>This was a disappointment. We concluded she must have entered + the stream bottom, and were just about to move when Memba Sasa + snapped his fingers. His sharp eyes had discovered her sneaking + along, belly to the ground, like the cat she was. The explanation + of this change in her gait was simple. Our companions had rounded + the corner of the hill and were galloping in plain view a + half-mile away. The lioness had caught sight of them.</P> + + <P>She was gliding by, dimly visible, through thick brush seventy + yards distant. Now I could make out a tawny patch that faded + while I looked; now I could merely guess at a melting shadow.</P> + + <P>"Stir her up," whispered Hill. "Never mind whether you hit. + She'll sneak away."</P> + + <P>At the shot she leaped fully out into the open with a snarl. + Promptly I planted a Springfield bullet in her ribs. She answered + slightly to the hit, but did not shift position. Her head up, her + tail thrashing from side to side, her ears laid back, she stood + there looking the landscape over carefully point by point. She + was searching for us, but as yet could not locate us. It was + really magnificent.</P> + + <P>I attempted to throw in another cartridge, but because of my + desire to work the bolt quietly, in order not to attract the + lioness's attention, I did not pull it back far enough, and the + cartridge jammed in the magazine. As evidence of Memba Sasa's + coolness and efficiency, it is to be written that he became aware + of this as soon as I did. He thrust the.405 across my right side, + at the same time withdrawing the Springfield on the left. The + motion was slight, but the lioness caught it. Immediately she + dropped her head and charged.</P> + + <P>For the next few moments, naturally, I was pretty intent on + lions. Nevertheless a corner of my mind was aware of Memba Sasa + methodically picking away at the jammed rifle, and paying no + attention whatever to the beast. Also I heard Hill making + picturesque remarks about his gunbearer, who had bolted with his + second gun.</P> + + <P>The lioness charged very fast, but very straight, about in the + tearing, scrambling manner of a terrier after a thrown ball. I + got in the first shot as she came, the bullet ranging back from + the shoulder, and Hill followed it immediately with another from + his.404 Jeffrey. She growled at the bullets, and checked very + slightly as they hit, but gave no other sign. Then our second + shots hit her both together. The mere shock stopped her short, + but recovering instantly, she sprang forward again. Hill's third + shot came next, and perceptibly slowed and staggered, but did not + stop her. By this time she was quite close, and my own third shot + reached her brain. She rolled over dead.</P> + + <P>Decidedly she was a game beast, and stood more hammering than + any other lion I killed or saw killed. Before the final shot in + the brain she had taken one light bullet and five heavy ones with + hardly a wince. Memba Sasa uttered a loud grunt of satisfaction + when she went down for good. He had the Springfield reloaded and + cocked, right at my elbow.</P> + + <P>Hill's gunboy hovered uncertainly some distance in the rear. + The sight of the charging lioness had been too much for him and + he had bolted. He was not actually up a tree; but he stood very + near one. He lost the gun and acquired a swift kick.</P> + + <P>Our friends and the men now came up. The dogs made a great row + over the dead lioness. She was measured and skinned to + accompaniment of the usual low-hummed chantings. We had with us a + small boy of ten or twelve years whose job it was to take care of + the dogs and to remove ticks. In fact he was known as the Tick + Toto. As this was his first expedition afield, his father took + especial pains to smear him with fat from the lioness. This was + to make him brave. I am bound to confess the effect was not + immediate.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XIX' id="XIX"></A> + + <H2>XIX.</H2> + + <P>THE DOGS.</P><BR> + + <P>I soon discovered that we were hunting lions with the + assistance of the dogs; not that the dogs were hunting lions. + They had not lost any lions, not they! My mental pictures of the + snarling, magnificent king of beasts surrounded by an equally + snarling, magnificent pack vanished into thin air.</P> + + <P>Our system was to cover as much likely country as we could, + and to let the dogs have a good time. As I have before indicated, + they were thoroughly doggy dogs, and interested in + everything—except able-bodied lions. None of the + stick-at-your-heels in their composition. They ranged far and + wide through all sorts of cover, seeking what they could find in + the way of porcupines, mongoose, hares, birds, cats, and whatever + else should interest any healthy-minded dog. If there happened to + be any lions in the path of these rangings, the dogs retired + rapidly, discreetly, and with every symptom of horrified disgust. + If a dog came sailing out of a thicket, ki-yi-ing agitatedly, and + took up his position, tail between his legs, behind his master, + we knew there was probably a lion about. Thus we hunted lions + with dogs.</P> + + <P>But in order to be fair to these most excellent canines, it + should be recorded that they recovered a certain proportion of + their nerve after a rifle had been fired. They then returned + warily to the—not attack—reconnaissance. This trait + showed touching faith, and was a real compliment to the + marksmanship of their masters. Some day it will be misplaced. A + little cautious scouting on their part located the wounded beast; + whereupon, at a respectful distance, they lifted their voices. As + a large element of danger in case of a wounded lion is the + uncertainty as to his whereabouts, it will be seen that the dogs + were very valuable indeed. They seemed to know exactly how badly + hit any animal might happen to be, and to gauge their distance + accordingly, until at last, when the quarry was hammered to + harmlessness, they closed in and began to worry the nearly + lifeless carcass. By this policy the dogs had a lot of fun + hunting on their own hook, preserved their lives from otherwise + inevitable extinction, and were of great assistance in saving + their masters' skins.</P> + + <P>One member of the pack, perhaps two, were, however, rather + pathetic figures. I refer to the setters, Wayward and Girlie. + Ranger, Ruby, Ben, and Nero scampered merrily over the landscape + after anything that stirred, from field mice to serval cats. All + was game to their catholic tastes; and you may be sure, in a + country like Africa, they had few dull moments. But Wayward and + Girlie had been brought up in a more exclusive manner. Their + early instincts had been supplemented by a rigorous early + training. Game to them meant birds, and birds only. Furthermore, + they had been solemnly assured by human persons in whom they had + the utmost confidence, that but one sequence of events was + permissible or even thinkable in the presence of game. The Dog at + first intimation by scent must convey the fact to the Man, must + proceed cautiously to locate exactly, must then stiffen to a + point which he must hold staunchly, no matter how distracting + events might turn out, or how long an interval might elapse. The + Man must next walk up the birds; shoot at them, perhaps kill one, + then command the Dog to retrieve. The Dog must on no account move + from his tracks until such command is given. All the affair is + perfectly simple; but quite inflexible. Any variation in this + procedure fills the honest bird dog's mind with the same horror + and dismay experienced by a well-brought-up young man who + discovers that he has on shoes of the wrong colour. It isn't + done, you know.</P> + + <P>Consider, then, Wayward and Girlie in a country full of game + birds. They quarter wide to right, then cross to left, their + heads high, their feather tails waving in the most approved good + form. When they find birds they draw to their points in the best + possible style; stiffen out—and wait. It is now, according + to all good ethics, up to the Man. And the Man and his companions + go right on by, paying absolutely no attention either to the + situation or one's own magnificent piece of work! What is one to + conclude? That our early training is all wrong? that we are at + one experience to turn apostate to the settled and only correct + order of things? Or that our masters are no gentlemen? That is a + pretty difficult thing, an impossible thing, to conclude of one's + own master. But it leaves one in a fearful state mentally; and + one has no idea of what to do!</P> + + <P>Wayward was a perfect gentleman, and he played the game + according to the very best traditions. He conscientiously pointed + every bird he could get his nose on. Furthermore he was + absolutely staunch, and held his point even when the four + non-bird dogs rushed in ahead of him. The expression of + puzzlement, grief, shock, and sadness in his eyes deepened as + bird after bird soared away without a shot. Girlie was more + liberal-minded. She pointed her birds, and backed Wayward at + need, but when the other dogs rushed her point, she rushed too. + And when we swept on by her, leaving her on point, instead of + holding it quixotically, as did Wayward, until the bird sneaked + away, she merely waited until we were out of sight, and then + tried to catch it. Finally Captain D. remarked that, lions or no + lions, he was not going to stand it any longer. He got out a + shotgun, and all one afternoon killed grouse over Wayward, to the + latter's intense relief. His ideals had been rehabilitated.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XX' id="XX"></A> + + <H2>XX.</H2> + + <P>BONDONI.</P><BR> + + <P>We followed many depressions, in which might be lions, until + about three o'clock in the afternoon. Then we climbed the + gently-rising long slope that culminated, far above the plains, + in the peak of a hill called Bondoni. From a distance it was + steep and well defined; but, like most of these larger kopjes, + its actual ascent, up to the last few hundred feet, was so + gradual that we hardly knew we were climbing. At the summit we + found our men and the bullock cart. There also stood an oblong + blockhouse of stone, the walls two feet thick and ten feet high. + It was entered only by a blind angle passage, and was strong + enough, apparently, to resist small artillery. This structure was + simply an ostrich corral, and bitter experience had shown the + massive construction absolutely necessary as adequate protection, + in this exposed and solitary spot, against the lions.</P> + + <P>We had some tea and bread and butter, and then Clifford Hill + and I set out afoot after meat. Only occasionally do these + hard-working settlers get a chance for hunting on the plains so + near them; and now they had promised their native retainers that + they would send back a treat of game. To carry this promised + luxury, a number of the villagers had accompanied the bullock + wagon. As we were to move on next day, it became very desirable + to get the meat promptly while still near home.</P> + + <P>We slipped over to the other side, and by good fortune caught + sight of a dozen zebras feeding in scrub half-way down the hill. + They were out of their proper environment up there, but we were + glad of it. Down on our tummies, then, we dropped, and crawled + slowly forward through the high, sweet grasses. We were in the + late afternoon shadow of the hill, and we enjoyed the mild skill + of the stalk. Taking advantage of every cover, slipping over into + little ravines, lying very flat when one of the beasts raised his + head, we edged nearer and nearer. We were already well within + range, but it amused us to play the game. Finally, at one hundred + yards, we came to a halt. The zebra showed very handsome at that + range, for even their smaller leg stripes were all plainly + visible. Of course at that distance there could be small chance + of missing, and we owned one each. The Wakamba, who had been + watching eagerly, swarmed down, shouting.</P> + + <P>We dined just at sunset under a small tree at the very top of + the peak. Long bars of light shot through the western clouds; the + plain turned from solid earth to a mysterious sea of shifting + twilights; the buttes stood up, wrapped in veils of soft desert + colours; Kilimanjaro hung suspended like a rose-coloured bubble + above the abyss beyond the world.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXI' id="XXI"></A> + + <H2>XXI.</H2> + + <P>RIDING THE PLAINS.</P><BR> + + <P>From the mere point of view of lions, lion A hunting was very + slow work indeed. It meant riding the whole of long days, from + dawn until dark, investigating miles of country that looked all + alike and in which we seemed to get nowhere. One by one the long + billows of plain fell behind, until our camp hill had turned blue + behind us, and we seemed to be out in illimitable space, with no + possibility, in an ordinary lifetime, of ever getting in touch + with anything again. What from above had looked as level as a + floor now turned into a tremendously wide and placid ground + swell. As a consequence we were always going imperceptibly up and + up and up to a long-delayed sky-line, or tipping as gently down + the other side of the wave. From crest to crest of these long + billows measured two or three miles. The vertical distance in + elevation from trough to top was perhaps not over fifty to one + hundred feet.</P> + + <P>Slowly we rode along the shallow grass and brush ravines in + the troughs of the low billows, while the dogs worked eagerly in + and out of cover, and our handful of savages cast stones and + shouted. Occasionally we divided forces, and beat the length of a + hill, two of us lying in wait at one end for the possible lion, + the rest sweeping the sides and summits. Many animals came + bounding along, but no lions. Then Harold Hill, unlimbering a + huge, many-jointed telescope, would lie flat on his back, and + sight the fearsome instrument over his crossed feet, in a general + bird's-eye view of the plains for miles around. While he was at + it we were privileged to look about us, less under the burden of + responsibility. We could make out the game as little, + light-coloured dots and speckles, thousands upon thousands of + them, thicker than cattle ever grazed on the open range, and as + far as the eye could make them out, and then a glance through our + glasses picked them up again for mile after mile. Even the + six-power could go no farther. The imagination was left the + vision of more leagues of wild animals even to the half-guessed + azure mountains—and beyond. I had seen abundant game + elsewhere in Africa, but nothing like the multitudes inhabiting + the Kapiti Plains at that time of year. In other seasons this + locality is comparatively deserted.</P> + + <P>The glass revealing nothing in our line, we rode again to the + lower levels, and again took up our slow, painstaking search.</P> + + <P>But although three days went by in this manner without our + getting a glimpse of lions, they were far from being days lost. + Minor adventure filled our hours. What elsewhere would be of + major interest and strange and interesting experience met us at + every turn. The game, while abundant, was very shy. This had + nothing to do with distrust of hunters, but merely with the fact + that it was the season of green grass. We liked to come upon + animals unexpectedly, to see them buck-jump and cavort.</P> + + <P>Otherwise we rode in a moving space cleared of animals, the + beasts unobtrusively giving way before us, and as unobtrusively + closing in behind. The sun flashed on the spears of savages + travelling single file across the distance. Often we stopped + short to gaze upon a wild and tumbled horizon of storm that + Gustave Doré might have drawn.</P> + + <P>The dogs were always joyously routing out some beast, + desirable from their point of view, and chasing it hopelessly + about, to our great amusement. Once they ran into a giant + porcupine-about the size a setter would be, with shorter + legs-which did not understand running away. They came upon it in + a dense thicket, and the ensuing row was unholy. They managed to + kill the porcupine among them, after which we plucked barbed + quills from some very grieved dogs. The quills were large enough + to make excellent penholders. The dogs also swore by all canine + gods that they wouldn't do a thing to a hyena, if only they could + get hold of one. They never got hold of one, for the hyena is a + coward. His skull and teeth, however, are as big and powerful as + those of a lioness; so I do not know which was luckier in his + avoidance of trouble—he or the dogs.</P> + + <P>Nor from the shooting standpoint did we lack for sport. We had + to shoot for our men, and we occasionally needed meat ourselves. + It was always interesting, when such necessities arose, to stalk + the shy buck and do long-range rifle practice. This shooting, + however, was done only after the day's hunt was over. We had no + desire to spoil our lion chances.</P> + + <P>The long circle towards our evening camp always proved very + long indeed. We arrived at dusk to find supper ready for us. As + we were old campaigners we ate this off chop boxes as tables, and + sat on the ground. It was served by a Wakamba youth we had + nicknamed Herbert Spencer, on account of his gigantic intellect. + Herbert meant well, but about all he succeeded in accomplishing + was a pathetically wrinkled brow of care and scared eyes. He had + never been harshly treated by any of us, but he acted as though + always ready to bolt. If there were twenty easy right methods of + doing a thing and one difficult wrong method, Herbert would get + the latter every time. No amount of experience could teach him + the logic of our simplest ways. One evening he brought a tumbler + of mixed water and condensed milk. Harold Hill glanced into the + receptacle.</P> + + <P>"Stir it," he commanded briefly.</P> + + <P>Herbert Spencer obeyed. We talked about something else. Some + five or ten minutes later one of us noticed that Herbert was + still stirring, and called attention to the fact. When the latter + saw our eyes were on him he speeded up until the spoon fairly + rattled in the tumbler. Then, when he thought our attention had + relaxed again, he relaxed also his efforts—the spoon + travelled slower and slower in its dreamy circle. We amused + ourselves for some time thus. Then we became so weak from + laughter that we fell backward off our seats, and some one gasped + a command that Herbert cease.</P> + + <P>I am afraid, after a little, that we rather enjoyed mildly + tormenting poor Herbert Spencer. He tried so hard, and looked so + scared, and was so unbelievably stupid! Almost always he had to + pick his orders word by word from a vast amount of high-flown, + unnecessary English.</P> + + <P>"O Herbert Spencer," the command would run, "if you would + condescend to bend your mighty intellect to the lowly subject of + maji, and will snatch time from your profound cerebrations to + assure its being moto sans, I would esteem it infinite + condescension on your part to let pesi pesi."</P> + + <P>And Herbert, listening to all this with a painful, strained + intensity, would catch the six-key words, and would falter forth + a trembling "N'dio bwana."</P> + + <P>Somewhere down deep within Herbert Spencer's make up, however, + was a sense of moral duty. When we finally broke camp for good, + on the great hill of Lucania, Herbert Spencer, relieved from his + job, bolted like a shot. As far as we could see him he was + running at top speed. If he had not possessed a sense of duty, he + would have done this long ago.</P> + + <P>We camped always well up on some of the numerous hills; for, + although anxious enough to find lions in the daytime, we had no + use for them at all by night. This usually meant that the boys + had to carry water some distance. We kept a canvas bath-tub full + for the benefit of the dogs, from which they could drink at any + time. This necessary privilege after a hard day nearly drove + Captain D. crazy. It happened like this:</P> + + <P>We were riding along the slope of a hillside, when in the + ravine, a half mile away and below us, we saw something dark pop + up in sight and then down again. We shouted to some of the savage + Wakamba to go and investigate. They closed in from all sides, + their long spears poised to strike. At the last moment out + darted, not an animal, but a badly frightened old man armed with + bow and arrow. He dashed out under the upraised spears, clasped + one of the men around the knees, and implored protection. Our + savages, their spears ready, glanced over their shoulders for + instruction. They would have liked nothing better than to have + spitted the poor old fellow.</P> + + <P>We galloped down as fast as possible to the rescue. With + reluctance our spearmen drew back, releasing their prize. We + picked up his scattered bows and arrows, restored them to him, + and uttered many reassurances. He was so badly frightened that he + could not stand for the trembling of his knees. Undoubtedly he + thought that war had broken out, and that he was the first of its + unconscious victims. After calming him down, we told him what we + were doing, and offered to shoot him meat if he cared to + accompany us. He accepted the offer with joy. So pleased and + relieved was he, that he skipped about like a young and nimble + goat. His hunting companion, who all this time had stood atop of + a hill at a safe distance, viewed these performances with + concern. Our captive shouted loudly for him to come join us and + share in the good fortune. Not he! He knew a trap when he saw + one! Not a bit disturbed by the tales this man would probably + carry back home, our old fellow attached himself to us for three + days!</P> + + <P>Near sundown, to make our promise good, and also to give our + own men a feast, I shot two hartebeeste near camp.</P> + + <P>The evening was beautiful. The Machakos Range, miles distant + across the valley, was mantled with thick, soft clouds. From our + elevation we could see over them, and catch the glow of moonlight + on their upper surfaces. We were very tired, so we turned in + early and settled ourselves for a good rest.</P> + + <P>Outside our tent the little "Injun fire" we had built for our + own comfort died down to coals. A short distance away, however, + was a huge bonfire around which all the savages were gathered. + They squatted comfortably on their heels, roasting meat. Behind + each man was planted his glittering long-bladed spear. The old + man held the place of honour, as befitted his flirtation with + death that morning. Everybody was absolutely happy—a good + fire, plenty of meat, and strangers with whom to have a grand + "shauri." The clatter of tongues was a babel, for almost every + one talked at once and excitedly. Those who did not talk crooned + weird, improvised chants, in which they detailed the doings of + the camp.</P> + + <P>We fell very quickly into the half doze of too great + exhaustion. It never became more than a half doze. I suppose + every one who reads this has had at some time the experience of + dropping asleep to the accompaniment of some noise that ought + soon to cease—a conversation in the next room, singing, the + barking of a dog, the playing of music, or the like. The fact + that it ought soon to cease, permits the falling asleep. When, + after an interval, the subconsciousness finds the row still going + on, inexcusable and unabated, it arouses the victim to staring + exasperation. That was our case here. Those natives should have + turned in for sleep after a reasonable amount of pow-wow. They + did nothing of the kind. On the contrary, I dragged reluctantly + back to consciousness and the realization that they had quite + happily settled down to make a night of it. I glanced across the + little tent to where Captain D. lay on his cot. He was staring + straight upward, his eyes wide open.</P> + + <P>After a few seconds he slipped out softly and silently. Our + little fire had sunk to embers. A dozen sticks radiated from the + centre of coals. Each made a firebrand with one end cool to the + grasp. Captain D. hurled one of these at the devoted and + unconscious group.</P> + + <P>It whirled through the air and fell plunk in the other fire, + scattering sparks and coals in all directions. The second was + under way before the first had landed. It hit a native with + similar results, plus astonished and grieved language. The rest + followed in rapid-magazine-fire. Every one hit its mark fair and + square. The air was full of sparks exploding in all directions. + The brush was full of Wakamba, their blankets flapping in the + breeze of their going. The convention was adjourned. There fell + the sucking vacuum of a great silence. Captain D., breathing + righteous wrath, flopped heavily and determinedly down on his + cot. I caught a faint snicker from the tent next door.</P> + + <P>Captain D. sighed deeply, turned over, and prepared to sleep. + Then one of the dogs uprose—I think it was + Ben—stretched himself, yawned, approached deliberately, and + began to drink from the canvas bath-tub just outside. He + drank—lap, lap, lap, lap—for a very long time. It + seemed incredible that any mere dog—or canvas + bath-tub—could hold so much water. The steady repetition of + this sound long after it should logically have ceased was worse + than the shenzi gathering around the fire. Each lap should have + been the last, but it was not. The shenzi convention had been + abated with firebrands, but the dog was strictly within his + rights. The poor pups had had a long day with little water, and + they could hardly be blamed for feeling a bit feverish now. At + last Ben ceased. Next morning Captain D. claimed vehemently that + he had drunk two hours forty-nine minutes and ten seconds. With a + contented sigh Ben lay down. Then Ruby got up, shook herself, and + yawned. A bright idea struck her. She too went over and had a + drink. After that I, personally, went to sleep. But in the + morning I found Captain D. staring-eyed and strung nearly to + madness, trying feverishly to calculate how seven dogs drinking + on an average of three hours apiece could have finished by + morning. When Harold Hill innocently asked if he had slept well, + the captain threw the remaining but now extinct firebrand at + him.</P> + + <P>One of the safari boys, a big Baganda, had twisted his foot a + little, and it had swelled up considerably. In the morning he + came to have it attended to. The obvious treatment was very hot + water and rest; but it would never do to tell him so. The + recommendation of so simple a remedy would lose me his faith. So + I gave him a little dab of tick ointment wrapped in a leaf.</P> + + <P>"This," said I, "is most wonderful medicine; but it is also + most dangerous. If you were to rub it on your foot or your hand + or any part of you, that part would drop off. But if you wash the + part in very hot water continuously for a half hour, and then put + on the medicine, it is good, and will cure you very soon." I am + sure I do not know what they put in tick ointment; nor, for the + purpose, did it greatly matter. That night, also, Herbert Spencer + reached the climax of his absurdities. The chops he had cooked + did not quite suffice for our hunger, so we instructed him to + give us some of the leg. By this we meant steak, of course. + Herbert Spencer was gone so long a time that finally we went to + see what possibly could be the matter. We found him trying + desperately to cook the whole leg in a frying-pan!</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXII' id="XXII"></A> + + <H2>XXII.</H2> + + <P>THE SECOND LIONESS.</P><BR> + + <P>Now our luck changed most abruptly. We had been riding since + early morning over the wide plains. By and by we came to a wide, + shallow, flood-water course carpeted with lava boulders and + scant, scattered brush. Two of us took one side of it, and two + the other. At this we were just within hailing distance. The boys + wandered down the middle.</P> + + <P>Game was here very abundant, and in this broken country proved + quite approachable. I saw one Grant's gazelle head, in especial, + that greatly tempted me; but we were hunting lions, and other + shooting was out of place. Also the prospects for lions had + brightened, for we were continually seeing hyenas in packs of + from three to six. They lay among the stones, but galloped away + at our approach. The game paid not the slightest attention to + these huge, skulking brutes. One passed within twenty feet of a + hartebeeste; the latter hardly glanced at him. As the hyena is + lazy as well as cowardly, and almost never does his killing, we + inferred a good meat supply to gather so many of them in one + place. From a tributary ravine we flushed nineteen!</P> + + <P>Harold Hill was riding with me on the right bank. His quick + eye caught a glimpse of something beyond our companions on the + left side. A glance through the glasses showed me that it was a + lion, just disappearing over the hill. At once we turned our + horses to cross. It was a heavy job. We were naturally in a + tremendous hurry; and the footing among those boulders and + rounded rocks was so vile that a very slow trot was the best we + could accomplish. And that was only by standing in our stirrups, + and holding up our horses' heads by main strength. We reached the + sky-line in time to see a herd of game stampeding away from a + depression a half-mile away. We fixed our eyes on that point, and + a moment later saw the lion or lioness, as it turned out, leap a + gully and come out the other side.</P> + + <P>The footing down this slope, too, was appalling, consisting + mainly of chunks of lava interspersed with smooth, rounded stones + and sparse tufts of grass. In spite of the stones we managed a + sort of stumbling gallop. Why we did not all go down in a heap I + do not know. At any rate we had no chance to watch our quarry, + for we were forced to keep our eyes strictly to our way. When + finally we emerged from that tumble of rocks, she had + disappeared.</P> + + <P>Either she had galloped out over the plains, or she had + doubled back to take cover in the ravine. In the latter case she + would stand. Our first job, therefore, was to determine whether + she had escaped over the open country. To this end we galloped + our horses madly in four different directions, pushing them to + the utmost, swooping here and there in wide circles. That was an + exhilarating ten minutes until we had surmounted every billow of + the plain, spied in all directions, and assured ourselves beyond + doubt that she had not run off. The horses fairly flew, spurning + the hard sod, leaping the rock dikes, skipping nimbly around the + pig holes, turning like cow-ponies under pressure of knee and + rein. Finally we drew up, converged, and together jogged our + sweating horses back to the ravine. There we learned from the + boys that nothing more had been seen of our quarry.</P> + + <P>We dismounted, handed our mounts to their syces, and prepared + to make afoot a clean sweep of the wide, shallow ravine. Here was + where the dogs came in handy. We left a rearguard of two men, and + slowly began our beat.</P> + + <P>The ravine could hardly be called a ravine; rather a shallow + depression with banks not over a foot high, and with a varying + width of from two to two hundred feet. The grass grew very + patchy, and not very high; in fact, it seemed hardly tall enough + to conceal anything as large as a lioness. We men walked along + the edge of this depression, while the dogs ranged back and forth + in its bottom.</P> + + <P>We had gone thus a quarter-mile when one of the rearguard came + running up.</P> + + <P>"Bwana," said he, "we have seen the lioness. She is lying in a + patch of grass. After you had passed, we saw her raise her + head."</P> + + <P>It seemed impossible that she should have escaped both our + eyes and the dogs' noses, but we returned. The man pointed out a + thin growth of dried, yellow grass ten feet in diameter. Then it + seemed even more incredible. Apparently we could look right + through every foot of it. The man persisted, so we advanced in + battle array. At thirty yards Captain D. saw the black tips of + her ears. We all looked hard, and at last made her out, lying + very flat, her head between her paws. Even then she was shadowy + and unreal, and, as I have said, the cover did not look thick + enough to conceal a good-sized dog.</P> + + <P>As though she realized she had been sighted, she at this + moment leapt to her feet. Instantly I put a.405 bullet into her + shoulder. Any other lion I ever saw or heard of would in such + circumstances and at such a distance immediately have charged + home. She turned tail and ran away. I missed her as she ran, then + knocked her down with a third shot. She got up again, but was + immediately hit by Captain D.'s.350 Magnum and brought to a halt. + The dogs, seeing her turn tail and hearing our shots, had + scrambled madly after her. We dared not shoot again for fear of + hitting one of them, so we dashed rapidly into the grass and out + the other side. Before we could get to her, she had sent Ruby + flying through the air, and had then fallen over dead. Ruby got + off lucky with only a deep gash the length of her leg.</P> + + <P>This was the only instance I experienced of a wounded lion + showing the white feather. She was, however, only about + three-quarters grown, and was suffering from diarrhoea.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXIII' id="XXIII"></A> + + <H2>XXIII.</H2> + + <P>THE BIG LION.</P><BR> + + <P>The boys skinned her while we ate lunch. Then we started + several of them back towards camp with the trophy, and ourselves + cut across country to a small river known as the Stony Athi. + There we dismounted from our horses, and sent them and the boys + atop the ridge above the stream, while we ourselves explored + afoot the hillside along the river.</P> + + <P>This was a totally different sort of country from that to + which we had been accustomed. Imagine a very bouldery hillside + planted thickly with knee-high brambles and more sparsely with + higher bushes. They were not really brambles, of course, but + their tripping, tangling, spiky qualities were the same. We had + to force our way through these, or step from boulder to boulder. + Only very rarely did we get a little rubbly clear space to walk + in, and then for only ten or twenty feet. We tried in spaced + intervals to cover the whole hillside. It was very hard work. The + boys, with the horses, kept pace with us on the sky-line atop, + and two or three hundred yards away.</P> + + <P>We had proceeded in this fashion for about a mile, when + suddenly, and most unexpectedly, the biggest lion I ever saw + leapt straight up from a bush twenty-five yards in front of me, + and with a tremendous roar vanished behind another bush. I had + just time to throw up the.405 shotgun-fashion and let drive a + snapshot. Clifford Hill, who was ten yards to my right, saw the + fur fly, and we all heard the snarl as the bullet hit. Naturally + we expected an instant charge, but, as things turned out, it was + evident the lion had not seen us at all. He had leapt at the + sight of our men and horses on the sky-line, and when the bullet + hit he must have ascribed it to them. At any rate, he began to + circle through the tangled vines in their direction.</P> + + <P>From their elevation they could follow his movements. At once + they set up howls of terror and appeals for help. Some began + frantically to run back and forth. None of them tried to run + away; there was nowhere to go! The only thing that saved them was + the thick and spiky character of the cover. The lion, instead of + charging straight and fast, was picking an easy way.</P> + + <P>We tore directly up hill as fast as we were able, leaping from + rock to rock, and thrusting recklessly through the tangle. About + half-way up I jumped to the top of a high, conical rock, and + thence by good luck caught sight of the lion's great yellow head + advancing steadily about eighty yards away. I took as good a + sight as I could and pulled trigger. The recoil knocked me clear + off the boulder, but as I fell I saw his tail go up and knew that + I had hit. At once Clifford Hill and I jumped up on the rock + again, but the lion had moved out of sight. By this time, + however, the sound of the shots and the smell of blood had caused + the dogs to close in. They did not, of course, attempt to attack + the lion, nor even to get very near him, but their snarling and + barking showed us the beast's whereabouts. Even this much is bad + judgment on their part, as a number of them have been killed at + it. The thicket burst into an unholy row.</P> + + <P>We all manoeuvred rapidly for position. Again luck was with + me, for again I saw his great head, the mane standing out all + around it; and for the second time I planted a heavy bullet + square in his chest. This stopped his advance; he lay down. His + head was up and his eyes glared, as he uttered the most + reverberating and magnificent roars and growls. The dogs leapt + and barked around him. We came quite close, and I planted my + fourth bullet in his shoulder. Even this was not enough. It took + a fifth in the same place to finish him, and he died at last + biting great chunks of earth.</P> + + <P>The howls from the hill top ceased. All gathered to marvel at + the lion's immense size. He measured three feet nine inches at + the shoulder, and nine feet eleven inches between stakes, or ten + feet eleven inches along contour. This is only five inches under + record. We weighed him piecemeal, after a fashion, and put him + between 550 and 600 pounds.</P> + + <P>But these are only statistics, and mean little unless a real + attempt is made to visualize them. As a matter of fact, his mere + height—that of a medium-size zebra-was little unless + accented by the impression of his tremendous power and + quickness.</P> + + <P>We skinned him, and then rode four long hours to camp. We + arrived at dark, and at once set to work preparing the trophy. A + dozen of us squatted around the skin, working by lantern light. + Memba Sasa had had nothing to eat since before dawn, but in his + pride and delight he refused to touch a mouthful until the job + was finished. Several times we urged him to stop long enough for + even a bite. He steadily declined, and whetted his knife, his + eyes gleaming with delight, his lips crooning one of his weird + Monumwezi songs. At eleven o'clock the task was done. Then I + presented Memba Sasa with a tall mug of coffee and lots of sugar. + He considered this a great honour.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXIV' id="XXIV"></A> + + <H2>XXIV.</H2> + + <P>THE FIFTEEN LIONS.</P><BR> + + <P>Two days before Captain D. and I were to return to Juja we + approached, about eleven o'clock in the morning, a long, low, + rugged range of hills called Lucania. They were not very high, + but bold with cliffs, buttes, and broken rocky stretches. Here we + were to make our final hunt.</P> + + <P>We led our safari up to the level of a boulder flat between + two deep cañons that ran down from the hills. Here should + be water, so we gathered under a lone little tree, and set about + directing the simple disposition of our camp. Herbert Spencer + brought us a cold lunch, and we sat down to rest and refreshment + before tackling the range.</P> + + <P>Hardly had we taken the first mouthfuls, however, when Memba + Sasa, gasping for breath, came tearing up the slope from the + cañon where he had descended for a drink. "Lions!" he + cried, guardedly. "I went to drink, and I saw four lions. Two + were lying under the shade, but two others were playing like + puppies, one on its back."</P> + + <P>While he was speaking a lioness wandered out from the + cañon and up the opposite slope. She was somewhere between + six and nine hundred yards away, and looked very tiny; but the + binoculars brought us up to her with a jump. Through them she + proved to be a good one. She was not at all hurried, but paused + from time to time to yawn and look about her. After a short + interval, another, also a lioness, followed in her footsteps. She + too had climbed clear when a third, probably a full-grown but + still immature lion, came out, and after him the fourth.</P> + + <P>"You were right," we told Memba Sasa, "there are your + four."</P> + + <P>But while we watched, a fifth, again at the spaced interval, + this time a maned lion, clambered leisurely up in the wake of his + family; and after him another, and another, and yet another! We + gasped, and sat down, the better to steady our glasses with our + knees. There seemed no end to lions. They came out of that + apparently inexhaustible cañon bed one at a time and at + the same regular intervals; perhaps twenty yards or so apart. It + was almost as though they were being released singly. Finally we + had <I>fifteen</I> in sight.</P> + + <P>It was a most magnificent spectacle, and we could enjoy it + unhurried by the feeling that we were losing opportunities. At + that range it would be silly to open fire. If we had descended to + the cañon in order to follow them out the other side, they + would merely have trotted away. Our only chance was to wait until + they had disappeared from sight, and then to attempt a wide + circle in order to catch them from the flank. In the meantime we + had merely to sit still.</P> + + <P>Therefore we stared through our glasses, and enjoyed to the + full this most unusual sight. There were four cubs about as big + as setter dogs, four full-grown but immature youngsters, four + lionesses, and three male lions. They kept their spaced, single + file formation for two-thirds the ascent of the + hill—probably the nature of the ground forced them to + it—and then gradually drew together. Near the top, but + still below the summit, they entered a jumble of boulders and + stopped. We could make out several of them lying down. One fine + old yellow fellow stretched himself comfortably atop a flat rock, + in the position of a bronze lion on a pedestal. We waited twenty + minutes to make sure they were not going to move. Then, leaving + all our men except the gunbearers under the tree, we slipped back + until out of sight, and began to execute our flank movement. The + chances seemed good. The jumble of boulders was surrounded by + open country, and it was improbable the lions could leave it + without being seen. We had arranged with our men a system of + signals.</P> + + <P>For two hours we walked very hard in order to circle out of + sight, down wind, and to gain the other side of the ridge back of + the lions. We purposed slipping over the ridge and attacking from + above. Even this was but a slight advantage. The job was a stiff + one, for we might expect certainly the majority to charge.</P> + + <P>Therefore, when we finally deployed in skirmish order and bore + down on that patch of brush and boulders, we were braced for the + shock of battle. We found nothing. Our men, however, signalled + that the lions had not left cover. After a little search, + however, we discovered a very shallow depression running + slantwise up the hill and back of the cover. So slight it was + that even the glasses had failed to show it from below. The lions + had in all probability known about us from the start, and were + all the time engaged in withdrawing after their leisurely + fashion.</P> + + <P>Of course we hunted for them; in fact, we spent two days at + it; but we never found trace of them again. The country was too + hard for tracking. They had left Lucania. Probably by the time we + had completed our two hours of flanking movement they were five + miles away. The presence of cubs would account for this. In + ordinary circumstances we should have had a wonderful and + exciting fight. But the sight of those fifteen great beasts was + one I shall never forget.</P> + + <P>After we had hunted Lucania thoroughly we parted company with + the Hills, and returned to Juja Farm.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='PART_V' id="PART_V"></A> + + <H2>PART V.</H2> + + <P>THE TSAVO RIVER.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXV' id="XXV"></A> + + <H2>XXV.</H2> + + <P>VOI.</P><BR> + + <P>Part way up the narrow-gauge railroad from the coast is a + station called Voi. On his way to the interior the traveller + stops there for an evening meal. It is served in a high, wide + stone room by white-robed Swahilis under command of a very + efficient and quiet East Indian. The voyager steps out into the + darkness to look across the way upon the outlines of two great + rounded hills against an amethyst sky. That is all he ever sees + of Voi, for on the down trip he passes through it about two + o'clock in the morning.</P> + + <P>At that particularly trying hour F. and I descended, and + attempted, by the light of lanterns, to sort out twenty safari + boys strange to us, and miscellaneous camp stores. We did not + entirely succeed. Three men were carried on down the line, and + the fly to our tent was never seen again.</P> + + <P>The train disappeared. Our boys, shivering, crept into + corners. We took possession of the dak-bungalow maintained by the + railroad for just such travellers as ourselves. It was simply a + high stone room, with three iron beds, and a corner so cemented + that one could pour pails of water over one's self without + wetting the whole place. The beds were supplied with mosquito + canopies and strong wire springs. Over these we spread our own + bedding, and thankfully resumed our slumbers.</P> + + <P>The morning discovered to us Voi as the station, the district + commissioner's house on a distant side hill, and a fairly + extensive East Indian bazaar. The keepers of the latter traded + with the natives. Immediately about the station grew some flat + shady trees. All else was dense thorn scrub pressing close about + the town. Opposite were the tall, rounded mountains.</P> + + <P>Nevertheless, in spite of its appearance, Voi has its + importance in the scheme of things. From it, crossing the great + Serengetti desert, runs the track to Kilimanjaro and that part of + German East Africa. The Germans have as yet no railroad; so they + must perforce patronize the British line thus far, and then trek + across. As the Kilimanjaro district is one rich in natives and + trade, the track is well used. Most of the transport is done by + donkeys—either in carts or under the pack saddle. As the + distance from water to water is very great, the journey is a hard + one. This fact, and the incidental consideration that from fly + and hardship the mortality in donkeys is very heavy, pushes the + freight rates high. And that fact accounts for the motor car, + which has been my point of aim from the beginning of this + paragraph.</P> + + <P>The motor car plies between Voi and the German line at + exorbitant rates. Our plan was to have it take us and some + galvanized water tanks out into the middle of the desert and dump + us down there. So after breakfast we hunted up the owner.</P> + + <P>He proved to be a very short, thick-set, blond German youth + who justified Weber and Fields. In fact, he talked so exactly + like those comedians that my task in visualizing him to you is + somewhat lightened. If all, instead of merely a majority of my + readers, had seen Weber and Fields that task would vanish.</P> + + <P>We explained our plan, and asked him his price.</P> + + <P>"Sefen hundert and feefty rupees,"<A name='FNanchor_11_11' id= + "FNanchor_11_11"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_11_11'><SUP>[11]</SUP></A> said he + uncompromisingly.</P> + + <P>He was abrupt, blunt, and insulting. As we wanted + transportation very much—though not seven hundred and fifty + rupees' worth—we persisted. He offered an imperturbable + take-it-or-leave-it stolidity. The motor truck stood near. I said + something technical about the engine; then something more. He + answered these remarks, though grudgingly. I suggested that it + took a mighty good driver to motor through this rough country. He + mentioned a particular hill. I proposed that we should try the + station restaurant for beer while he told me about it. He + grunted, but headed for the station.</P> + + <P>For two hours we listened to the most blatant boasting. He was + a great driver; he had driven for M., the American millionaire; + for the Chinese Ambassador to France; for Grand-Duke Alexis; for + the Kaiser himself! We learned how he had been the trusted + familiar of these celebrities, how on various occasions—all + detailed at length—he had been treated by them as an equal; + and he told us sundry sly, slanderous, and disgusting anecdotes + of these worthies, his forefinger laid one side his nose. When we + finally got him worked up to the point of going to get some + excessively bad photographs, "I haf daken myself!" we began to + have hopes. So we tentatively approached once more the subject of + transportation.</P> + + <P>Then the basis of the trouble came out. One Davis, M.P. from + England, had also dealt with our friend. Davis, as we + reconstructed him, was of the blunt type, with probably very + little feeling of democracy for those in subordinate positions, + and with, most certainly, a good deal of insular and racial + prejudice. Evidently a rather vague bargain had been struck, and + the motor had set forth. Then ensued financial wranglings and + disputes as to terms. It ended by useless hauteur on Davis's + part, and inexcusable but effective action by the German. For + Davis found himself dumped down on the Serengetti desert and left + there.</P> + + <P>We heard all this in excruciatingly funny Weberandfieldese, + many times repeated. The German literally beat his breast and + cried aloud against Davis. We unblushingly sacrificed a probably + perfectly worthy Davis to present need, and cried out against him + too.</P> + + <P>"Am I like one dog?" demanded the German fervently.</P> + + <P>"Certainly not," we cried with equal fervour. We both like + dogs.</P> + + <P>Then followed wearisomely reiterated assurances that we, at + least, knew how a gentleman should be treated, and more boasting + of proud connections in the past. But the end of it was a bargain + of reasonable dimensions for ourselves, our personal boys, and + our loads. Under plea of starting our safari boys off we left + him, and crept, with shattered nerves, around the corner of the + dak-bungalow. There we lurked, busy at pretended affairs, until + our friend swaggered away to the Hindu quarters, where, it seems, + he had his residence.</P> + + <P>About ten o'clock a small safari marched in afoot. It had + travelled all of two nights across the Thirst, and was glad to + get there. The single white man in charge had been three years + alone among the natives near Kilimanjaro, and he was now out for + a six months' vacation at home. Two natives in the uniform of + Sudanese troops hovered near him very sorrowful. He splashed into + the water of the dak-bungalow, and then introduced himself. We + sat in teakwood easy-chairs and talked all day. He was a most + interesting, likeable, and cordial man, at any stage of the game. + The game, by means of French vermouth—of all + drinks!—progressed steadily. We could hardly blame him for + celebrating. By the afternoon he wanted to give things away. So + insistent was he that F. finally accepted an ebony walking-stick, + and I an ebony knife inset with ivory. If we had been the least + bit unscrupulous, I am afraid the relatives at home would have + missed their African souvenirs. He went out <I>viâ</I> + freight car, all by himself, seated regally in a steamer chair + between two wide-open side doors, one native squatted on either + side to see that he did not lurch out into the landscape.</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_11_11' id= + "Footnote_11_11"></A><A href='#FNanchor_11_11'>[11]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>Fifty pounds.</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXVI' id="XXVI"></A> + + <H2>XXVI.</H2> + + <P>THE FRINGE-EARED ORYX.</P><BR> + + <P>At ten o'clock the following morning we started. On the high + front seat, under an awning, sat the German, F., and I. The body + of the truck was filled with safari loads, Memba Sasa, Simba + Mohammed, and F.'s boy, whose name I have forgotten. The + arrangement on the front seat was due to a strike on the part of + F.</P> + + <P>"Look here," said he to me, "you've got to sit next that + rotter. We want him to bring us back some water from the other + side, and I'd break his neck in ten minutes. You sit next him and + give him your motor car patter."</P> + + <P>Therefore I took the middle seat and played chorus. The road + was not a bad one, as natural mountain roads go; I have myself + driven worse in California. Our man, however, liked to exaggerate + all the difficulties, and while doing it to point to himself with + pride as a perfect wonder. Between times he talked elementary + mechanics.</P> + + <P>"The inflammation of the sparkling plugs?" was one of his + expressions that did much to compensate.</P> + + <P>The country mounted steadily through the densest thorn scrub I + have ever seen. It was about fifteen feet high, and so thick that + its penetration, save by made tracks, would have been an absolute + impossibility. Our road ran like a lane between two spiky + jungles. Bold bright mountains cropped up, singly and in short + ranges, as far as the eye could see them.</P> + + <P>This sort of thing for twenty miles—more than a hard + day's journey on safari. We made it in a little less than two + hours; and the breeze of our going kept us reasonably cool under + our awning. We began to appreciate the real value of our + diplomacy.</P> + + <P>At noon we came upon a series of unexpectedly green and clear + small hills just under the frown of a sheer rock cliff. This + oasis in the thorn was occupied by a few scattered native huts + and the usual squalid Indian dukka, or trading store. At this + last our German friend stopped. From under the seat he drew out a + collapsible table and a basket of provisions. These we were + invited to share. Diplomacy's highest triumph!</P> + + <P>After lunch we surmounted our first steep grade to the top of + a ridge. This we found to be the beginning of a long elevated + plateau sweeping gently downward to a distant heat mist, which + later experience proved a concealment to snowcapped Kilimanjaro. + This plateau also looked to be covered with scrub. As we + penetrated it, however, we found the bushes were more or less + scattered, while in the wide, shallow dips between the + undulations were open grassy meadows. There was no water. + Isolated mountains or peaked hills showed here and there in the + illimitable spaces, some of them fairly hull down, all of them + toilsomely distant. This was the Serengetti itself.</P> + + <P>In this great extent of country somewhere were game herds. + They were exceedingly migratory, and nobody knew very much about + them. One of the species would be the rare and localized + fringe-eared oryx. This beast was the principal zoological end of + our expedition; though, of course, as always, we hoped for a + chance lion. Geographically we wished to find the source of the + Swanee River, and to follow that stream down to its joining with + the Tsavo. About half-past one we passed our safari boys. We had + intended to stop and replenish their canteens from our + water-drums; but they told us they had encountered a stray and + astonishing shower, and did not need more. We left them trudging + cheerfully across the desert. They had travelled most of the + night before, would do the same in the night to come, and should + reach our camping-place about noon of the next day.</P> + + <P>We ourselves stopped about four o'clock. In a few hours we had + come a hard three days' march. Over the side went our goods. We + bade the German a very affectionate farewell; for he was still to + fill our drums from one of the streams out of Kilimanjaro and + deliver them to us on his return trip next day. We then all + turned to and made camp. The scrub desert here was exactly like + the scrub desert for the last sixty miles.</P> + + <P>The next morning we were up and off before sunrise. In this + job time was a very large element of the contract. We must find + our fringe-eared oryx before our water supply gave out. Therefore + we had resolved not to lose a moment.</P> + + <P>The sunrise was most remarkable—lace work, flat clouds, + with burnished copper-coloured clouds behind glowing through the + lace. We admired it for some few moments. Then one of us happened + to look higher. There, above the sky of the horizon, apparently + suspended in mid-air half-way to the zenith, hung like delicate + bubbles the double snow-cloud peaks of Kilimanjaro. Between them + and the earth we could apparently see clear sky. It was in + reality, of course, the blue-heat haze that rarely leaves these + torrid plains. I have seen many mountains in all parts of the + world, but none as fantastically insubstantial; as wonderfully + lofty; as gracefully able to yield, before clouds and storms and + sunrise glows, all the space in infinity they could possibly use, + and yet to tower above them serene in an upper space of its own. + Nearly every morning of our journey to come we enjoyed this + wonderful vision for an hour or so. Then the mists closed in. The + rest of the day showed us a grayish sky along the western + horizon, with apparently nothing behind it.</P> + + <P>In the meantime we were tramping steadily ahead over the + desert; threading the thorn scrub, crossing the wide shallow + grass-grown swales; spying about us for signs of game. At the end + of three or four miles we came across some ostrich and four + hartebeeste. This encouraged us to think we might find other game + soon, for the hartebeeste is a gregarious animal. Suddenly we saw + a medium-sized squat beast that none of us recognized, trundling + along like a badger sixty yards ahead. Any creature not easily + identified is a scientific possibility in Africa. Therefore we + fired at once. One of the bullets hit his foreleg paw. + Immediately this astonishing small creature turned and charged + us! If his size had equalled his ferocity, he would have been a + formidable opponent. We had a lively few minutes. He rushed us + again and again, uttering ferocious growls. We had to step high + and lively to keep out of his way. Between charges he sat down + and tore savagely at his wounded paw. We wanted him as nearly + perfect a specimen as possible, so tried to rap him over the head + with a club. Owing to remarkably long teeth and claws, this was + soon proved impracticable; so we shot him. He weighed about fifty + pounds, and we subsequently learned that he was a honey badger, + an animal very rarely captured.</P> + + <P>We left the boys to take the whole skin and skull of this + beast, and strolled forward slowly. The brush ended abruptly in a + wide valley. It had been burnt over, and the new grass was coming + up green. We gave one look, and sank back into cover.</P> + + <P>The sparse game of the immediate vicinity had gathered to this + fresh feed. A herd of hartebeeste and gazelle were grazing, and + five giraffe adorned the sky-line. But what interested us + especially was a group of about fifty cob-built animals with the + unmistakable rapier horns of the oryx. We recognized them as the + rarity we desired.</P> + + <P>The conditions were most unfavourable. The cover nearest them + gave a range of three hundred yards, and even this would bring + them directly between us and the rising sun. There was no help + for it, however. We made our way to the bushes nearest the herd, + and I tried to align the blurs that represented my sights. At the + shot, ineffective, they raced to the right across our front. We + lay low. As they had seen nothing they wheeled and stopped after + two hundred yards of flight. This shift had brought the light + into better position. Once more I could define my sights. From + the sitting position I took careful aim at the largest buck. He + staggered twenty feet and fell dead. The distance was just 381 + paces. This shot was indeed fortunate, for we saw no more + fringe-eared oryx.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXVII' id="XXVII"></A> + + <H2>XXVII.</H2> + + <P>ACROSS THE SERENGETTI.</P><BR> + + <P>We arrived in camp about noon, almost exhausted with the + fierce heat and a six hours' tramp, to find our German friend + awaiting us. By an irony of fate the drums of water he had + brought back with him were now unnecessary; we had our oryx. + However, we wearily gave him lunch and listened to his prattle, + and finally sped him on his way, hoping never to see him + again.</P> + + <P>About three o'clock our men came in. We doled out water + rations, and told them to rest in preparation for the morrow.</P> + + <P>Late that night we were awakened by a creaking and snorting + and the flash of torches passing. We looked out, to see a donkey + transport toiling slowly along, travelling thus at night to avoid + the terrific day heats. The two-wheeled carts with their wild and + savage drivers looked very picturesque in the flickering lights. + We envied them vaguely their defined route that permitted night + travel, and sank to sleep.</P> + + <P>In the morning, however, we found they had left with us new + responsibilities in the shape of an elderly Somali, very sick, + and down with the fever. This was indeed a responsibility. It was + manifestly impossible for us to remain there with him; we should + all die of thirst. It was equally impossible to take him with us, + for he was quite unfit to travel under the sun. Finally, as the + best solution of a bad business, we left him five gallons of + water, some food, and some quinine, together with the advice to + rest until night, and then to follow his companions along the + beaten track. What between illness and wild beasts his chances + did not look very good, but it was the best we could do for him. + This incident exemplifies well the cruelty of this singular + people. They probably abandoned the old man because his groans + annoyed them, or because one of them wanted to ride in his place + on the donkey cart.<A name='FNanchor_12_12' id= + "FNanchor_12_12"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_12_12'><SUP>[12]</SUP></A></P> + + <P>We struck off as early as possible through the thorn scrub on + a compass bearing that we hoped would bring us to a reported + swamp at the head of the Swanee River. The Swanee River was one + of the sources of the Tsavo. Of course this was guesswork. We did + not know certainly the location of the swamp, its distance from + us, nor what lay between us and it. However, we loaded all our + transportable vessels with water, and set forth.</P> + + <P>The scrub was all alike; sometimes thinner, sometimes thicker. + We marched by compass until we had raised a conical hill above + the horizon, and then we bore just to the left of that. The + surface of the ground was cut by thousands of game tracks. They + were all very old, however, made after a rain; and it was evident + the game herds venture into this country only when it contains + rainwater. After two hours, however, we did see one solitary + hartebeeste, whom we greeted as an old friend in desolation. + Shortly afterwards we ran across one oribi, which I shot for our + own table.</P> + + <P>At the end of two hours we sat down. The safari of twenty men + was a very miscellaneous lot, consisting of the + rag-tag-and-bobtail of the bazaars picked up in a hurry. They + were soft and weak, and they straggled badly. The last + weakling—prodded along by one of our two + askaris—limped in only at the end of half an hour. Then we + took a new start.</P> + + <P>The sun was by now up and hot. The work was difficult enough + at best, but the weight of the tropics was now cast in the scale. + Twice more within the next two hours we stopped to let every one + catch up. Each time this required a longer interval. In the thorn + it was absolutely essential to keep in touch with every member of + the party. A man once lost would likely remain so, for we could + not afford to endanger all for the sake of one.</P> + + <P>Time wore on until noon. Had it not been for a thin film of + haze that now overspread the sky, I think the sun would have + proved too much for some of the men. Four or five straggled so + very badly that we finally left them in charge of one of our two + askaris, with instructions to follow on as fast as they could. In + order to make this possible, we were at pains to leave a + well-marked trail.</P> + + <P>After this fashion, slowly, and with growing anxiety for some + of the men, we drew up on our landmark hill. There our + difficulties increased; the thorn brush thickened. Only by a + series of short zigzags, and by taking advantage of every rhino + trail going in our direction, could we make our way through it at + all; while to men carrying burdens on their heads the tangle + aloft must have been fairly maddening. So slow did our progress + necessarily become, and so difficult was it to keep in touch with + everybody, that F. and I finally halted for consultation. It was + decided that I should push on ahead with Memba Sasa to make + certain that we were not on the wrong line, while F. and the + askaris struggled with the safari.</P> + + <P>Therefore I took my compass bearing afresh, and plunged into + the scrub. The sensation was of hitting solid ground after a long + walk through sand. We seemed fairly to shoot ahead and out of + sight. Whenever we came upon earth we marked it deeply with our + heels; we broke twigs downwards, and laid hastily-snatched + bunches of grass to help the trail we were leaving for the others + to follow. This, in spite of our compass, was a very devious + track. Besides, the thorn bushes were patches of spiky aloe + coming into red flower, and the spears of sisal.</P> + + <P>After an hour's steady, swift walking the general trend of the + country began to slope downwards. This argued a watercourse + between us and the hills around Kilimanjaro. There could be no + doubt that we would cut it; the only question was whether it, + like so many desert watercourses, might not prove empty. We + pushed on the more rapidly. Then we caught a glimpse through a + chance opening, of the tops of trees below us. After another hour + we suddenly burst from the scrub to a strip of green grass beyond + which were the great trees, the palms, and the festooned vines of + a watercourse. Two bush bucks plunged into the thicket as we + approached, and fifteen or twenty mongooses sat up as straight + and stiff as so many picket pins the better to see us.</P> + + <P>For a moment my heart sank. The low undergrowth beneath the + trees apparently swept unbroken from where we stood to the low + bank opposite. It was exactly like the shallow, damp but + waterless ravines at home, filled with black berry vines. We + pushed forward, however, and found ourselves looking down on a + smooth, swift flowing stream.</P> + + <P>It was not over six feet wide, grown close with vines and + grasses, but so very deep and swift and quiet that an + extraordinary volume of water passed, as through an artificial + aqueduct. Furthermore, unlike most African streams, it was + crystal clear. We plunged our faces and wrists in it, and took + long, thankful draughts. It was all most grateful after the + scorching desert. The fresh trees meeting in canopy overhead were + full of monkeys and bright birds; festooned vines swung their + great ropes here and there; long heavy grass carpeted + underfoot.</P> + + <P>After we had rested a few minutes we filled our empty + canteens, and prepared to start back for our companions. But + while I stood there, Memba Sasa—good, faithful Memba + Sasa—seized both canteens and darted away.</P> + + <P>"Lie down!" he shouted back at me, "I will go back."</P> + + <P>Without protest—which would have been futile + anyway—I sank down on the grass. I was very tired. A little + breeze followed the watercourse; the grass was soft; I would have + given anything for a nap. But in wild Africa a nap is not + healthy; so I drowsily watched the mongooses that had again come + out of seclusion, and the monkeys, and the birds. At the end of a + long time, and close to sundown, I heard voices. A moment later + F., Memba Sasa, and about three-quarters of the men came in. We + all, white and black, set to work to make camp. Then we built + smudges and fired guns in the faint hope of guiding in the + stragglers. As a matter of fact we had not the slightest faith in + these expedients. Unless the men were hopelessly lost they should + be able to follow our trail. They might be almost anywhere out in + that awful scrub. The only course open to them would be to climb + thorn trees for the night. Next day we would organize a formal + search for them.</P> + + <P>In the meantime, almost dead from exhaustion, we sprawled + about everywhere. The men, too dispirited even to start their own + camp-fires, sat around resting as do boxers between rounds. Then + to us came Memba Sasa, who had already that day made a double + journey, and who should have been the most tired of all.</P> + + <P>"Bwana," said he, "if you will lend me Winchi,<A name= + 'FNanchor_13_13' id="FNanchor_13_13"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_13_13'><SUP>[13]</SUP></A> and a lantern, I will bring + in the men."</P> + + <P>We lent him his requirements, and he departed. Hours later he + returned, carefully leaned "Winchi" in the corner of the tent, + deposited the lantern, and stood erect at attention.</P> + + <P>"Well, Memba Sasa," I inquired.</P> + + <P>"The men are here."</P> + + <P>"They were far?"</P> + + <P>"Very far."</P> + + <P>"Verna, Memba Sasa, assanti sana."<A name='FNanchor_14_14' id= + "FNanchor_14_14"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_14_14'><SUP>[14]</SUP></A></P> + + <P>That was his sole—and sufficient—reward.</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_12_12' id= + "Footnote_12_12"></A><A href='#FNanchor_12_12'>[12]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>I have just heard that this old man survived, and has been + singing our praises in Nairobi as the saviour of his life.</P> + </DIV><A name='Footnote_13_13' id="Footnote_13_13"></A><A href= + '#FNanchor_13_13'>[13]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>His name for the.405 Winchester.</P> + </DIV><A name='Footnote_14_14' id="Footnote_14_14"></A><A href= + '#FNanchor_14_14'>[14]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>"Very good, Memba Sasa, thanks very much."</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXVIII' id="XXVIII"></A> + + <H2>XXVIII.</H2> + + <P>DOWN THE RIVER.</P><BR> + + <P>Relieved now of all anxiety as to water, we had merely to make + our way downstream. First, however, there remained the + interesting task of determining its source.</P> + + <P>Accordingly next day we and our gunbearers left the boys to a + well-earned rest, and set out upstream. At first we followed the + edge of the river jungle, tramping over hard hot earth, winding + in and out of growths of thorn scrub and brilliant aloes. We saw + a herd of impallas gliding like phantoms; and as we stood in need + of meat, I shot at one of them but missed. The air was very hot + and moist. At five o'clock in the morning the thermometer had + stood at 78 degrees; and by noon it had mounted to 106 degrees. + In addition the atmosphere was filled with the humidity that + later in the day was to break in extraordinary deluges. We moved + slowly, but even then our garments were literally dripping + wet.</P> + + <P>At the end of three miles the stream bed widened. We came upon + beautiful, spacious, open lawns of from eighty to one hundred + acres apiece, separated from each other by narrow strips of tall + forest trees. The grass was high, and waved in the breeze like + planted grain; the boundary trees resembled artificial + wind-breaks of eucalyptus or Normandy poplar. One might expect a + white ranch house beyond some low clump of trees, and chicken + runs, and corrals.</P> + + <P>Along these apparent boundaries of forest trees our stream + divided, and divided again, so that we were actually looking upon + what we had come to seek—the source of the Swanee branch of + the Tsavo River. In these peaceful, protected meadows was it + cradled. From them it sprang full size out into the African + wilderness.</P> + + <P>A fine impalla buck grazed in one of these fields. I crept as + near him as I could behind one of the wind-break rows of trees. + It was not very near, and for the second time I missed. Thereupon + we decided two things: that we were not really meat hungry, and + that yesterday's hard work was not conducive to to-day's good + shooting.</P> + + <P>Having thus accomplished the second object of our expedition, + we returned to camp. From that time begins a regular sequence of + events on which I look back with the keenest of pleasure. The two + constant factors were the river and the great dry country on + either side. Day after day we followed down the one, and we made + brief excursions out into the other. Each night we camped near + the sound of the swift running water, where the winds rustled in + the palms, the acacias made lacework across the skies, and the + jungle crouched in velvet blackness close to earth like a + beast.</P> + + <P>Our life in its routine was regular; in its details bizarre + and full of the unexpected. Every morning we arose an hour before + day, and ate by lantern light and the gleam of fires. At the + first gray we were afoot and on the march. F. and I, with our + gunbearers, then pushed ahead down the river, leaving the men to + come along as fast or as slowly as they pleased. After about six + hours or so of marching, we picked out a good camp site, and lay + down to await the safari. By two o'clock in the afternoon camp + was made. Also it was very hot. After a light lunch we stripped + to the skin, lay on our cots underneath the mosquito canopies, + and tried to doze or read. The heat at this time of day was + blighting. About four o'clock, if we happened to be inspired by + energy, one or the other of us strolled out at right angles to + the stream to see what we could see. The evening was tepid and + beautiful. Bathed and pyjama-clad we lolled in our canvas chairs, + smoking, chatting or listening to the innumerable voices of the + night.</P> + + <P>Such was the simple and almost invariable routine of our days. + But enriching it, varying it, disguising it even—as + rain-squalls, sunshine cloud shadow, and unexpected winds modify + the landscape so well known from a study window—were the + incredible incidents and petty adventures of African travel.</P> + + <P>The topography of the river itself might be divided very + roughly into three: the headwater country down to its junction + with the Tsavo the palm-elephant-grass stretch, and the gorge and + hill district just before it crosses the rail road.</P> + + <P>The headwater country is most beautiful The stream is not over + ten feet wide, but very deep, swift, and clear. It flows between + defined banks and is set in a narrow strip of jungle. In places + the bed widens out to a carpet of the greenest green grass sown + with flowers; at other places it offers either mysterious + thickets, spacious cathedrals, or snug bowers. Immediately beyond + the edge of this river jungle begins the thorn scrub, more or + less dense. Distant single mountains or buttes serve as landmarks + in a brush-grown, gently rising, strongly rolling country. + Occasional alluvial flats draw back to low cliffs not over twenty + feet high.</P> + + <P>After the junction of the Tsavo, palms of various sorts + replace to a large extent the forest trees. Naturally also the + stream widens and flows more slowly. Outside the palms grow tall + elephant-grass and bush. Our marching had generally to be done in + the narrow, neutral space between these two growths. It was + pleasant enough, with the river snatching at the trailing + branches, and the birds and animals rustling away. Beyond the + elephant-grass flats low ridges ran down to the river, varying in + width, but carrying always with them the dense thorn. Between + them ran recesses, sometimes three or four hundred acres in + extent, high with elephant-grass or little trees like alders. So + much for the immediate prospect on our right as we marched. + Across the river to our left were huge riven mountains, with + great cliffs and cañons. As we followed necessarily every + twist and turn of the river, sometimes these mountains were + directly ahead of us, then magically behind, so that we thought + we had passed them by. But the next hour threw them again across + our trail. The ideal path would, of course, have cut across all + the bends and ridges; but the thorn of the ridges and the + elephant-grass of the flats forbade it. So we marched ten miles + to gain four.</P> + + <P>After days of struggle and deception we passed those + mountains. Then we entered a new type of country where the Tsavo + ran in cañons between hills. The high cliffs often towered + far above us; we had to pick our way along narrow river ledges; + again the river ran like a trout stream over riffles and rapids, + while we sauntered along cleared banks beneath the trees. Had we + not been making a forced march under terrific heat at just that + time, this last phase of the river might have been the + pleasantest of all.</P> + + <P>Throughout the whole course of our journey the rhinoceros was + the most abundant of the larger animals. The indications of old + tracks proved that at some time of the year, or under some + different conditions, great herds of the more gregarious plains + antelope and zebra visited the river, but at the time of our + visit they were absent. The rhinoceroses, however, in incredible + numbers came regularly to water. Paradoxically, we saw very few + of them, and enjoyed comparative immunity from their charges. + This was due to the fact that their habits and ours swung in + different orbits. The rhinoceros, after drinking, took to the + hot, dry thorn scrub in the low hills; and as he drank at night, + we rarely encountered him in the river bottoms where we were + marching. This was very lucky, for the cover was so dense that a + meeting must necessarily be at close quarters. Indeed these large + and truculent beasts were rather a help than a hindrance, for we + often made use of their wide, clear paths to penetrate some + particularly distressing jungle. However, we had several small + adventures with them: just enough to keep us alert in rounding + corners or approaching bushes—and nine-tenths of our travel + was bushes and corners. The big, flat footsteps, absolutely fresh + in the dust, padded methodically ahead of us down the only way + until it seemed that we could not fail to plump upon their maker + around the next bend. We crept forward foot by foot, every sense + alert, finger on trigger. Then after a time the spoor turned off + to the right, towards the hills. We straightened our backs and + breathed a sigh of relief. This happened over and over again. At + certain times of year also elephants frequent the banks of the + Tsavo in considerable numbers We saw many old signs, and once + came upon the fresh path of a small herd. The great beasts had + passed by that very morning. We gazed with considerable awe on + limbs snatched bodily from trees; on flat-topped acacias a foot + in diameter pulled up by the roots and stood up side down; on + tree trunks twisted like ropes.</P> + + <P>Of the game by far the most abundant were the beautiful red + impalla. We caught glimpses of their graceful bodies gliding in + and out of sight through the bushes; or came upon them standing + in small openings, their delicate ears pointed to us. They and + the tiny dikdik furnished our table; and an occasional water-buck + satisfied the men. One day we came on one of the latter beasts + sound asleep in a tiny open space. He was lying down, and his + nose rested against the earth just like a very old family horse + in a paddock.</P> + + <P>Besides these common species were bush-buck wart-hog, lesser + kudu, giraffe, and leopard. The bush-buck we jumped occasionally + quite near at hand. They ducked their heads low and rushed + tearingly to the next cover. The leopard was heard sighing every + night, and saw their pad marks next day; but only twice did we + catch glimpses of them. One morning we came upon the fresh-killed + carcass of a female lesser kudu from which, evidently, we had + driven the slayer.</P> + + <P>These few species practically completed the game list. They + were sufficient for our needs; and the lesser kudu was a prize + much desired for our collection. But by far the most interesting + to me were the smaller animals, the birds, and the strange, + innumerable insects.</P> + + <P>We saw no natives in the whole course of our journey.</P> + + <P>The valley of the river harboured many monkeys. They seemed to + be of two species, blue and brown, but were equally noisy and + amusing. They retired ahead of our advance with many remarks, or + slipped past us to the rear without any comments whatever. When + we made camp they retired with indignant protests, and when we + had quite settled down they returned as near as they dared.</P> + + <P>One very hot afternoon I lay on my canvas cot in the open, + staring straight upward into the overarching greenery of the + trees. This is a very pleasant thing to do. The beautiful + up-spreading, outstretching of the tree branches and twigs + intrigue the eye; the leaves make fascinating, hypnotically + waving patterns against a very blue sky; and in the chambers and + galleries of the upper world the birds and insects carry on + varied businesses of their own. After a time the corner of my eye + caught a quick movement far to the left and in a shadow. At once + I turned my attention that way. After minute scrutiny I at length + made out a monkey. Evidently considering himself quite + unobserved, he was slowly and with great care stalking our camp. + Inch by inch he moved, taking skilful advantage of every bit of + cover, flattening himself along the limbs, hunching himself up + behind bunches of leaves, until he had gained a big limb directly + overhead. There he stretched flat, staring down at the scene that + had so strongly aroused his curiosity. I lay there for over two + hours reading and dozing. My friend aloft never stirred. When + dusk fell he was still there. Some time after dark he must have + regained his band, for in the morning the limb was vacant.</P> + + <P>Now comes the part of this story that really needs a witness, + not to veracity perhaps, but to accuracy of observations. + Fortunately I have F. About noon next day the monkey returned to + his point of observation. He used the same precautions as to + concealment; he followed his route of the day before; he + proceeded directly to his old conning tower on the big limb. It + did not take him quite so long to get there, for he had already + scouted out the trail. <I>And close at his heels followed two + other monkeys</I>! They crawled where he crawled; they crouched + where he crouched; they hid where he hid; they flattened + themselves out by him on the big limb, and all three of them + passed the afternoon gazing down on the strange and fascinating + things below. Whether these newcomers were part of the first + one's family out for a treat, or whether they were Cook's + Tourists of the Jungle in charge of my friend's competence as a + guide, I do not know.</P> + + <P>Farther down the river F. and I stopped for some time to watch + the crossing of forty-odd of the little blue monkeys. The whole + band clambered to near the top of a tall tree growing by the + water's edge. There, one by one, they ran out on a straight + overhanging limb and cast themselves into space. On the opposite + bank of the river, and leaning well out, grew a small springy + bush. Each monkey landed smash in the middle of this, clasped it + with all four hands, swayed alarmingly, recovered, and scampered + ashore. It was rather a nice problem in ballistics this, for a + mistake in calculation of a foot in distance or a pound in push + would land Mr. Monkey in the water. And the joke of it was that + directly beneath that bush lay two hungry-looking crocodiles! As + each tiny body hurtled through the air I'll swear a look of hope + came into the eyes of those crocs. We watched until the last had + made his leap. There were no mistakes. The joke was against the + crocodiles.</P> + + <P>We encountered quite a number of dog-faced baboons. These big + apes always retreated very slowly and noisily. Scouts in the + rearguard were continually ascending small trees or bushes for a + better look at us, then leaping down to make disparaging remarks. + One lot seemed to show such variation in colour from the usual + that we shot one. The distance was about two hundred and fifty + yards. Immediately the whole band—a hundred or so + strong—dropped on all fours and started in our direction. + This was rather terrifying. However, as we stood firm, they + slowly came to a halt at about seventy yards, barked and + chattered for a moment, then hopped away to right and left.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXIX' id="XXIX"></A> + + <H2>XXIX.</H2> + + <P>THE LESSER KUDU.</P><BR> + + <P>About eight o'clock, the evening of our first day on the + Swanee, the heat broke in a tropical downpour. We heard it coming + from a long distance, like the roar of a great wind. The velvet + blackness, star hung, was troubled by an invisible blurring mist, + evidenced only through a subtle effect on the subconsciousness. + Every leaf above us, in the circle of our firelight, depended + absolutely motionless from its stem. The insects had ceased their + shrilling; the night birds their chirping; the animals, great and + small, their callings or their stealthy rustling to and fro. Of + the world of sound there remained only the crackling of our + fires, the tiny singing of the blood in our ears, and that + far-off portentous roar. Our simple dispositions were made. + Trenches had been dug around the tents; the pegs had been driven + well home; our stores had been put in shelter. We waited + silently, puffing away our pipes.</P> + + <P>The roaring increased in volume. Beneath it we began to hear + the long, rolling crash of thunder. Overhead the stars, already + dimmed, were suddenly blotted from existence. Then came the rain, + in a literal deluge, as though the god of floods had turned over + an entire reservoir with one twist of his mighty hand. Our fire + went out instantly; the whole world went out with it. We lay on + our canvas cots unable to see a foot beyond our tent opening; + unable to hear anything but the insistent, terrible drumming over + our heads; unable to think of anything through the tumult of + waters. As a man's body might struggle from behind a waterfall + through the torrents, so our imaginations, half drowned, managed + dimly to picture forth little bits—the men huddled close in + their tiny tents, their cowled blankets over their heads. All the + rest of the universe had gone.</P> + + <P>After a time the insistent beat and rush of waters began to + wear through our patience. We willed that this wracking tumult + should cease; we willed it with all the force that was in us. + Then, as this proved vain, we too humped our spiritual backs, + cowled our souls with patience, and waited dumbly for the force + of the storm to spend itself. Our faculties were quite as + effectually drowned out by the unceasing roar and crash of the + waters as our bodily comfort would have been had we lacked the + protection of our tent.</P> + + <P>Abruptly the storm passed. It did not die away slowly in the + diminuendo of ordinary storms. It ceased as though the reservoir + had been tipped back again. The rapid <I>drip</I>, <I>drip</I>, + <I>drip</I> of waters now made the whole of sound; all the rest + of the world lay breathless. Then, inside our tent, a cricket + struck up bravely.</P> + + <P>This homely, cheerful little sound roused us. We went forth to + count damages and to put our house in order. The men hunted out + dry wood and made another fire; the creatures of the jungle and + the stars above them ventured forth.</P> + + <P>Next morning we marched into a world swept clean. The ground + was as smooth as though a new broom had gone over it. Every track + now was fresh, and meant an animal near at hand. The bushes and + grasses were hung with jewels. Merry little showers shook down + from trees sharing a joke with some tiny wind. White steam rose + from a moist, fertile-looking soil. The smell of greenhouses was + in the air. Looking back, we were stricken motionless by the + sight of Kilimanjaro, its twin peaks suspended a clean blue sky, + fresh snow mantling its shoulders.</P> + + <P>This day, so cheeringly opened, was destined to fulfil its + promise. In the dense scrub dwell a shy and rare animal called + the lesser kudu specimens of which we greatly desired. The beast + keeps to the thickest and driest cove where it is impossible to + see fifty yards ahead but where the slightest movement breaks the + numberless dry interlacements of which the place seems made. To + move really quietly one could not cover over a half-mile in an + hour. As the countryside extends a thousand square miles or more, + and the lesser kudu is rare, it can be seen that hunting them + might have to be a slow and painful process. We had twice seen + the peculiar tracks.</P> + + <P>On this morning, however, we caught a glimpse of the beast + itself. A flash of gray, with an impression of the characteristic + harness-like stripes—that was all. The trail, in the + ground, was of course very plain. I left the others and followed + it into the brush. As usual the thorn scrub was so thick that I + had to stoop and twist to get through it at all, and so brittle + that the least false move made a crackling like a fire. The rain + of the night before had, however, softened the + <I>débris</I> lying on the ground. I moved forward as + quickly as I could, half suffocated in the steaming heat of the + dense thicket. After three or four hundred yards the beast fell + into a walk, so I immediately halted. I reasoned that after a few + steps at this gait he would look back to see whether or not he + was followed. If his scouting showed him nothing he might throw + off suspicion. After ten minutes I crept forward again. The spoor + showed my surmises to be correct, for I came to where the animal + had turned, behind a small bush, and had stood for a few minutes. + Taking up the tracks from this point, I was delighted to find + that the kudu had forgotten its fear, and was browsing. At the + end of five minutes more of very careful work, I was fortunate + enough to see it, feeding from the top of a small bush + thirty-five yards away. The raking shot from the Springfield + dropped it in its tracks.</P> + + <P>It proved to be a doe, a great prize of course, but not to be + compared with the male. We skinned her carefully, and moved on, + delighted to have the species.</P> + + <P>Our luck was not over, however. At the end of six hours we + picked our camp in a pretty grove by the swift-running stream. + There we sat down to await the safari. The tree-tops were full of + both the brown and blue monkeys, baboons barked at us from a + distance, the air was musical with many sweet birds. Big + thunder-clouds were gathering around the horizon.</P> + + <P>The safari came in. Mohammed immediately sought us out to + report, in great excitement, that he had seen five kudu across + the stream. He claimed to have watched them even after the safari + had passed, and that they had not been alarmed. The chance was + slight that the kudu could be found, but still it was a chance. + Accordingly we rather reluctantly gave up our plans for a loaf + and a nap. Mohammed said the place was an hour back; we had had + six hours march already. However, about two o'clock we set out. + Before we had arrived quite at the spot we caught a glimpse of + the five kudu as they dashed across a tiny opening ahead of us. + They had moved downstream and crossed the river.</P> + + <P>It seemed rather hopeless to follow them into that thick + country once they had been alarmed, but the prize was great. + Therefore Memba Sasa and I took up the trail. We crept forward a + mile, very quiet, very tense—very sweaty. Then + simultaneously, through a chance opening and a long distance + away, we caught a patch of gray with a single transverse white + stripe. There was no chance to ascertain the sex of the beast, + nor what part of its anatomy was thus exposed. I took a bull's + eye chance on that patch of gray; had the luck to hit it in the + middle. The animal went down. Memba Sasa leapt forward like a + madman; I could not begin to keep pace with him. When I had + struggled through the thorn, I found him dancing with + delight.</P> + + <P>"Monuome, bwana! buck, master!" he cried as soon as he saw me, + and made a spiral gesture in imitation of the male's beautiful + corkscrew horns.</P> + + <P>While the men prepared the trophy, F. and I followed on after + the other four to see what they would do, and speedily came to + the conclusion that we were lucky to land two of the wily beasts. + The four ran compactly together and in a wide curve for several + hundred yards. Then two faced directly back, while the other two, + one on either side, made a short detour out and back to guard the + flanks.</P> + + <P>We did not get back to camp until after dark. A tremendous + pair of electric storms were volleying and roaring at each other + across the space of night; leopards were crying; a pack of wild + dogs were barking vociferously. The camp, as we approached it, + was a globe of light in a bower of darkness. The fire, shining + and flickering on the under sides of the leaves, lent them a + strangely unreal stage-like appearance; the porters, their + half-naked bodies and red blankets catching the blaze, roasted + huge chunks of meat over little fires.</P> + + <P>We ate a belated supper in comfort, peace, and satisfaction. + Then the storms joined forces and fell upon us.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXX' id="XXX"></A> + + <H2>XXX.</H2> + + <P>ADVENTURES BY THE WAY.</P><BR> + + <P>We journeyed slowly on down the stream. Interesting things + happened to us. The impressions of that journey are of two sorts: + the little isolated details and the general background of our + day's routine, with the gray dawn, the great heats of the day, + the blessed evening and its fireflies; the thundering of heaven's + artillery, and the downpour of torrents; the hot, high, crackling + thorn scrub into which we made excursions; the swift-flowing + river with its palms and jungles; outleaning palms trailing their + fronds just within the snatch of the flood waters; wide flats in + the embrace of the river bends, or extending into the low hills, + grown thick with lush green and threaded with rhinoceros paths; + the huge sheer cliff mountains over the way; distant single hills + far down. The mild discomfort of the start before daylight + clearly revealed the thorns and stumbling blocks; the buoyant + cheerfulness of the first part of the day, with the grouse + rocketing straight up out of the elephant grass, the birds + singing everywhere, and the beasts of the jungle still a-graze at + the edges; the growing weight of the sun, as though a great + pressing hand were laid upon the shoulders; the suffocating, + gasping heat of afternoon, and the; gathering piling black and + white clouds; the cool evening in pyjamas with the fireflies + flickering; among the bushes, the river singing, and little; + breezes wandering like pattering raindrops in the dry palm + leaves—all these, by repetition of main elements, blend in + my memory to form a single image. To be sure each day the rock + pinnacles over the way changed slightly their compass bearings, + and little variations of contour lent variety to the procession + of days. But in essentials they were of one kin.</P> + + <P>But here and there certain individual scenes and incidents + stand out clearly and alone. Without reference to my notebook I + could not tell you their chronological order, nor the days of + their happening. They occurred, without correlation.</P> + + <P>Thus one afternoon at the loafing hour, when F. was sound + asleep under his mosquito bar, and I in my canvas chair was + trying to catch the breeze from an approaching deluge, to me came + a total stranger in a large turban. He was without arms or + baggage of any sort, an alien in a strange and savage + country.</P> + + <P>"Jambo, bwana m'kubwa (greeting, great master)!" said he.</P> + + <P>"Jambo," said I, as though his existence were not in the least + surprising, and went on reading. This showed him that I was + indeed a great master.</P> + + <P>After a suitable interval I looked up.</P> + + <P>"Wataka neenee (what do you want)?" I demanded.</P> + + <P>"Nataka sema qua heri (I want to say good-bye)," said this + astonishing individual.</P> + + <P>I had, until that moment, been quite unaware of his existence. + As he had therefore not yet said "How do you do," I failed to + fathom his reasons for wanting to say "good-bye." However, far be + it from me to deny any one innocent pleasure, so I gravely bade + him good-bye, and he disappeared into the howling wilderness + whence he had come.</P> + <HR style='width: 45%;'> + + <P>One afternoon we came upon two lemurs seated gravely side by + side on a horizontal limb ten feet up a thorn tree. They + contemplated us with the preternatural gravity of very young + children, and without the slightest sign of fear. We coveted them + as pets for Billy, but soon discovered that their apparent + tameness was grounded on good, solid common sense. The thorns of + that thorn tree! We left them sitting upright, side by side.</P> + + <P>A little farther on, and up a dry earthy hillside, a + medium-sized beast leapt from an eroded place fairly under my + feet and made off with a singularly familiar kiyi. It was a + strange-looking animal, apparently brick red in colour. When I + had collected myself I saw it was a wild dog. It had been asleep + in a warm hollow of red clay, and had not awakened until I was + fairly upon it. We had heard these beasts nearly every night, but + this was the first we had seen. Some days later we came upon the + entire pack drinking at the river. They leapt suddenly across our + front eighty yards away, their heads all turned towards us + truculently, barking at us like so many watch dogs. They made + off, but not as though particularly alarmed.</P> + <HR style='width: 45%;'> + + <P>One afternoon I had wounded a good wart-hog across the river, + and had gone downstream to find a dry way over. F., more + enthusiastic, had plunged in and promptly attacked the wart-hog. + He was armed with the English service revolver shooting the.455 + Ely cartridge. It is a very short, stubby bit of ammunition. I + had often cast doubt on its driving power as compared to the.45 + Colt, for example. F., as a loyal Englishman, had, of course, + defended his army's weapon. When I reached the centre of + disturbance I found that F. had emptied his revolver three + times—eighteen shots—into the head and forequarters + of that wart-hog without much effect. Incidentally the wart-hog + had given him a good lively time, charging again and again. The + weapon has not nearly the shock power of even our.38 + service—a cartridge classified as too light for serious + business.</P> + <HR style='width: 45%;'> + + <P>One afternoon I gave my shotgun to one of the porters to carry + afield, remarking facetiously to all and sundry that he looked + like a gunbearer. After twenty minutes we ran across a + rhinoceros. I spent some time trying to manoeuvre into position + for a photograph of the beast. However, the attempt failed. We + managed to dodge his rush. Then, after the excitement had died, + we discovered the porter and the shotgun up a tree. He descended + rather shamefaced. Nobody said anything about it. A half-hour + later we came upon another rhinoceros. The beast was visible at + some distance, and downhill. Nevertheless the porter moved a + little nearer a tree. This was too much for Memba Sasa. All the + rest of the afternoon he "ragged" that porter in much the same + terms we would have employed in the same circumstances.</P> + + <P>"That place ahead," said he, "looks like a good place for + rhinoceros. Perhaps you'd better climb a tree."</P> + + <P>"There is a dikdik; a bush is big enough to climb for + him."</P> + + <P>"Are you afraid of jackals, too?"</P> + <HR style='width: 45%;'> + + <P>The fireflies were our regular evening companions. We caught + one or two of them for the pleasure of watching them alternately + igniting and extinguishing their little lamps. Even when we put + them in a bottle they still kept up their performance + bravely.</P> + + <P>But besides them we had an immense variety of evening + visitors. Beetles of the most inconceivable shapes and colours, + all sorts of moths, and numberless strange things—leaf + insects, walking-stick insects (exactly like dry twigs), and the + fierce, tall, praying mantis with their mock air of meekness and + devotion. Let one of the other insects stray within reach and + their piety was quickly enough abandoned! One beetle about + three-eighths of an inch across was oblong in shape and of pure + glittering gold. His wing covers, on the other hand, were round + and transparent. The effect was of a jewel under a tiny glass + case. Other beetles were of red dotted with black, or of black + dotted with red; they sported stripes, or circles of plain + colours; they wore long, slender antennae, or short knobby horns; + they carried rapiers or pinchers, long legs or short. In fact + they ran the gamut of grace and horror, so that an inebriate + would find here a great rest for the imagination.</P> + + <P>After we had gone to bed we noticed more pleasantly our + cricket. He piped up, you may remember, the night of the first + great storm. That evening he took up his abode in some fold or + seam of our tent, and there stayed throughout all the rest of the + journey. Every evening he tuned up cheerfully, and we dropped to + sleep to the sound of his homelike piping. We grew very fond of + him, as one does of everything in this wild and changing country + that can represent a stable point of habitude.</P> + + <P>Nor must I forget one evening when all of a sudden out of the + darkness came a tremendous hollow booming, like the beating of + war drums or the bellowing of some strange great beast. At length + we identified the performer as an unfamiliar kind of frog!</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXXI' id="XXXI"></A> + + <H2>XXXI.</H2> + + <P>THE LOST SAFARI.</P><BR> + + <P>We were possessed of a map of sorts, consisting mostly of wide + blank spaces, with an occasional tentative mountain, or the + probable course of streams marked thereon. The only landmark that + interested us was a single round peak situated south of our river + and at a point just before we should cross the railroad at Tsavo + Station. There came a day when, from the top of a hill where we + had climbed for the sake of the outlook, we thought we recognized + that peak. It was about five miles away as the crow flies.</P> + + <P>Then we returned to camp and made the fatal mistake of + starting to figure. We ought to cover the distance, even with the + inevitable twists and turns, in a day; the tri-weekly train + passed through Tsavo the following night; if we could catch that + we would save a two days' wait for the next train. You follow the + thought. We arose very early the next morning to get a good start + on our forced march.</P> + + <P>There is no use in spinning out a sad tale. We passed what we + thought must be our landmark hill just eleven times. The map + showed only one butte; as a matter of fact there were dozens. At + each disappointment we had to reconstruct our theories. It is the + nature of man to do this hopefully—Tsavo Station must be + just around the <I>next</I> bend. We marched six hours without + pause; then began to save ourselves a little. By all the gods of + logical reasoning we <I>proved</I> Tsavo just beyond a certain + fringe of woods. When we arrived we found that there the river + broke through a range of hills by way of a deep gorge. It was a + change from the everlasting scrub, with its tumbling waters, its + awful cliffs, its luxuriant tropical growths; but it was so much + the more difficult to make our way through. Beyond the gorge we + found any amount of hills, kopjes, buttes, sugar loaves, etc., + each isolated from its fellows, each perfectly competent to serve + as the map's single landmark.</P> + + <P>We should have camped, but we were very anxious to catch that + train; and we were convinced that now, after all that work, Tsavo + could not be far away. It would be ridiculous and mortifying to + find we had camped almost within sight of our destination!</P> + + <P>The heat was very bad and the force of the sun terrific. It + seemed to possess actual physical weight, and to press us down + from above. We filled our canteens many times at the + swift-running stream, and emptied them as often. By two o'clock + F. was getting a little wobbly from the sun. We talked of + stopping, when an unexpected thunder shower rolled out from + behind the mountains, and speedily overcast the entire heavens. + This shadow relieved the stress. F., much revived, insisted that + we proceed. So we marched and passed many more hills.</P> + + <P>In the meantime it began to rain, after the whole-hearted + tropical fashion. In two minutes we were drenched to the skin. I + kept my matches and notebook dry by placing them in the crown of + my cork helmet. After the intense heat this tepid downpour seemed + to us delicious.</P> + + <P>And then, quite unexpectedly, of course, we came around a bend + to make out through the sheets of rain the steel girders of the + famous Tsavo bridge.<A name='FNanchor_15_15' id= + "FNanchor_15_15"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_15_15'><SUP>[15]</SUP></A></P> + + <P>We clambered up a steep, slippery bank to the right-of-way, + along which we proceeded half a mile to the station. This + consisted of two or three native huts, a house for the East + Indian in charge, and the station building itself. The latter was + a small frame structure with a narrow floorless veranda. There + was no platform. Drawing close on all sides was the interminable + thorn scrub. Later, when the veil of rain had been drawn aside, + we found that Tsavo, perched on a hillside, looked abroad over a + wide prospect. For the moment all we saw was a dark, dismal, + dripping station, wherein was no sign of life.</P> + + <P>We were beginning to get chilly, and we wanted very much some + tea, fire, a chance to dry, pending the arrival of our safari. We + jerked open the door and peered into the inky interior.</P> + + <P>"Babu!" yelled F., "Babu!"</P> + + <P>From an inner back room came the faint answer in most precise + English,—</P> + + <P>"I can-not come; I am pray-ing."</P> + + <P>There followed the sharp, quick tinkle of a little + bell—the Indian manner of calling upon the Lord's + attention.</P> + + <P>We both knew better than to hustle the institutions of the + East; so we waited with what patience we had, listening to the + intermittent tinkling of the little bell. At the end of fully + fifteen minutes the devotee appeared. He proved to be a mild, + deprecating little man, very eager to help, but without + resources. He was a Hindu, and lived mainly on tea and rice. The + rice was all out, but he expected more on the night train. There + was no trading store here. He was the only inhabitant. After a + few more answers he disappeared, to return carrying two pieces of + letter paper on which were tea and a little coarse native sugar. + These, with a half-dozen very small potatoes, were all he had to + offer.</P> + + <P>It did not look very encouraging. We had absolutely nothing in + which to boil water. Of course we could not borrow of our host; + caste stood in the way there. If we were even to touch one of his + utensils, that utensil was for him defiled for ever. + Nevertheless, as we had eaten nothing since four o'clock that + morning, and had put a hard day's work behind us, we made an + effort. After a short search we captured a savage possessed of a + surfuria, or native cooking pot. Memba Sasa scrubbed this with + sand. First we made tea in it, and drank turn about, from its + wide edge. This warmed us up somewhat. Then we dumped in our few + potatoes and a single guinea fowl that F. had decapitated earlier + in the day. We ate; and passed the pot over to Memba Sasa.</P> + + <P>So far, so good; but we were still very wet, and the + uncomfortable thought would obtrude itself that the safari might + not get in that day. It behoved us at least to dry what we had + on. I hunted up Memba Sasa, whom I found in a native hut. A fire + blazed in the middle of the floor. I stooped low to enter, and + squatted on my heels with the natives. Slowly I steamed off the + surface moisture. We had rather a good time chatting and + laughing. After a while I looked out. It had stopped raining. + Therefore I emerged and set some of the men collecting firewood. + Shortly I had a fine little blaze going under the veranda roof of + the station. F. and I hung out our breeches to dry, and spread + the tails of our shirts over the heat. F. was actually the human + chimney, for the smoke was pouring in clouds from the breast and + collar of his shirt. We were fine figures for the public platform + of a railway station!</P> + + <P>We had just about dried off and had reassumed our thin and + scanty garments, when the babu emerged. We stared in drop-jawed + astonishment. He had muffled his head and mouth in a most + brilliant scarf, as if for zero weather; although dressed + otherwise in the usual pongee. Under one arm he carried a folded + clumsy cotton umbrella; around his waist he had belted a huge + knife; in his other hand he carried his battle-axe. I mean just + that—his battle-axe. We had seen such things on tapestries + or in museums, but did not dream that they still existed out of + captivity. This was an Oriental looking battle-axe with a handle + three feet long, a spike on top, a spike out behind, and a + half-moon blade in front. The babu had with a little of his + signal paint done the whole thing, blade and all, to a brilliant + window-shutter green.</P> + + <P>As soon as we had recovered our breath, we asked him very + politely the reason for these stupendous preparations. It seemed + that it was his habit to take a daily stroll just before sunset, + "for the sake of the health," as he told us in his accurate + English.</P> + + <P>"The bush is full of bad men," he explained, "who would like + to kill me; but when they see this axe and this knife they say to + each other, 'There walks a very bad man. We dare not kill + him.'"</P> + + <P>He marched very solemnly a quarter-mile up the track and back, + always in plain view. Promptly on his return he dived into his + little back room where the periodic tinkling of his praying bell + for some time marked his gratitude for having escaped the "bad + men."</P> + + <P>The bell ceased. Several times he came to the door, eyed us + timidly, and bolted back into the darkness. Finally he approached + to within ten feet, twisted his hands and giggled in a most + deprecating fashion.</P> + + <P>"What is the use of this killing game?" he gabbled as rapidly + as he could. "Man should not destroy what man cannot first + create." After which he giggled again and fled.</P> + + <P>His conscience, evidently, had driven him to this defiance of + our high mightinesses against his sense of politeness and his + fears.</P> + + <P>About this time my boy Mohammed and the cook drifted in. They + reported that they had left the safari not far back. Our hopes of + supper and blankets rose. They declined, however, with the + gathering darkness, and were replaced by wrath against the + faithless ones. Memba Sasa, in spite of his long day, took a gun + and disappeared in the darkness. He did not get back until nine + o'clock, when he suddenly appeared in the doorway to lean the gun + in the corner, and to announce, "Hapana safari."</P> + + <P>We stretched ourselves on a bench and a table—the floor + was impossible—and took what sleep we could. In the small + hours the train thundered through, the train we had hoped to + catch!</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_15_15' id= + "Footnote_15_15"></A><A href='#FNanchor_15_15'>[15]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>This is the point at which construction was stopped by + man-eating lions. See Patterson's "The Man-eaters of + Tsavo."</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXXII' id="XXXII"></A> + + <H2>XXXII.</H2> + + <P>THE BABU.</P><BR> + + <P>We stretched ourselves stiffly in the first gray of dawn, + wondering where we could get a mouthful of breakfast. On emerging + from the station a strange and gladsome sight met our + eyes—namely, chop boxes and gun cases belonging to some + sportsman not yet arrived. Necessity knows no law; so we promptly + helped ourselves to food and gun-cleaning implements. Much + refreshed, we lit our pipes and settled ourselves to wait for our + delinquents.</P> + + <P>Shortly after sunrise an Indian track inspector trundled in on + a handcar propelled by two natives. He was a suave and corpulent + person with a very large umbrella and beautiful silken garments. + The natives upset the handcar off the track, and the newcomer + settled himself for an enjoyable morning. He and the babu + discussed ethics and metaphysical philosophy for three solid + hours. Evidently they came from different parts of India, and + their only common language was English. Through the thin + partition in the station building we could hear plainly every + word. It was very interesting. Especially did we chortle with + delight when the inspector began one of his arguments somewhat as + follows:—</P> + + <P>"Now the two English who are here. They possess great sums of + wealth"—F. nudged me delightedly—"and they have + weapons to kill, and much with which to do things, yet their + savage minds—"</P> + + <P>It was plain, rank, eavesdropping, but most illuminating, thus + to get at first hand the Eastern point of view as to ourselves; + to hear the bloodless, gentle shell of Indian philosophy + described by believers. They discussed the most minute and + impractical points, and involved themselves in the most + uncompromising dilemmas.</P> + + <P>Thus the gist of one argument was as follows: "All sexual + intercourse is sin, but the race must go forward by means of + sexual intercourse; therefore the race is conceived in sin and is + sinful; but it is a great sin for me, as an individual, not to + carry forward the race, since the Divine Will decrees that in + some way the race is necessary to it. <I>Therefore</I> it would + seem that man is in sin whichever way you look at it—"</P> + + <P>"But," interposes the inspector firmly but politely, "is it + not possible that sexual sin and the sin of opposing Divine Will + may be of balance in the spirit, so that in resisting one sort a + man acquires virtue to commit the other without harm—" And + so on for hours.</P> + + <P>At twelve-thirty the safari drifted in. Consider that fact and + what it meant. The plain duty of the headman was, of course, to + have seen that the men followed us in the day before. But + allowing, for the sake of argument, that this was impossible, and + that the men had been forced by the exhaustion of some of their + number to stop and camp, if they had arisen betimes they should + have completed the journey in two hours at most. That should have + brought them in by half-past seven or eight o'clock. But a noon + arrival condemned them without the necessity of argument. They + had camped early, had risen very, very late, and had dawdled on + the road.</P> + + <P>We ourselves gave the two responsible headmen twenty lashes + apiece; then turned over to them the job of thrashing the rest. + Ten per man was the allotment. They expected the punishment; took + it gracefully. Some even thanked us when it was over! The babu + disappeared in his station.</P> + + <P>About an hour later he approached us, very deprecating, and + handed us a telegram. It was from the district commissioner at + Voi ordering us to report for flogging "porters on the Tsavo + Station platform."</P> + + <P>"I am truly sorry, I am truly sorry," the babu was murmuring + at our elbows.</P> + + <P>"What does this mean?" we demanded of him.</P> + + <P>He produced a thick book.</P> + + <P>"It is in here—the law," he explained. "You must not + flog men on the station platform. It was my duty to report."</P> + + <P>"How did we know that? Why didn't you tell us?"</P> + + <P>"If you had gone there"—he pointed ten feet away to a + spot exactly like all other spots—"it would have been off + the platform. Then I had nothing to say."</P> + + <P>We tried to become angry.</P> + + <P>"But why in blazes couldn't you have told us of that quietly + and decently? We'd have moved."</P> + + <P>"It is the law" He tapped his thick book.</P> + + <P>"But we cannot be supposed to know by heart every law in that + book. Why didn't you warn us before reporting?" we insisted.</P> + + <P>"I am truly sorry," he repeated. "I hope and trust it will not + prove serious. But it is in the book."</P> + + <P>We continued in the same purposeless fashion for a moment or + so longer. Then the babu ended the discussion thus,—</P> + + <P>"It was my duty. I am truly sorry. Suppose I had not reported + and should die to-day, and should go to heaven, and God should + ask me, 'Have you done your duty to-day?' what should I say to + Him?"</P> + + <P>We gave it up; we were up against Revealed Religion.</P> + + <P>So that night we took a freight train southward to Voi, + leaving the babu and his prayer-bell, and his green battle-axe + and his conscience alone in the wilderness. We had quite a + respect for that babu.</P> + + <P>The district commissioner listened appreciatively to our + tale.</P> + + <P>"Of course I shall not carry the matter further," he told us, + "but having known the babu, you must see that once he had + reported to me I was compelled to order you down here. I am sorry + for the inconvenience."</P> + + <P>And when we reflected on the cataclysmic upheaval that babu + would have undergone had we not been summoned after breaking one + of The Laws in the Book, we had to admit the district + commissioner was right.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='PART_VI' id="PART_VI"></A> + + <H2>PART VI.</H2> + + <P>IN MASAILAND.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXXIII' id="XXXIII"></A> + + <H2>XXXIII.</H2> + + <P>OVER THE LIKIPIA ESCARPMENT.</P><BR> + + <P>Owing to an outbreak of bubonic plague, and consequent + quarantine, we had recruited our men outside Nairobi, and had + sent them, in charge of C., to a little station up the line.</P> + + <P>Billy and I saw to the loading of our equipment on the train, + and at two o'clock, in solitary state, set forth. Our only + attendants were Mohammed and Memba Sasa, who had been fumigated + and inoculated and generally Red-Crossed for the purpose.</P> + + <P>The little narrow-gauge train doubled and twisted in its climb + up the range overlooking Nairobi and the Athi Plains. Fields of + corn grew so tall as partially to conceal villages of round, + grass-thatched huts with conical roofs; we looked down into deep + ravines where grew the broad-leaved bananas; the steep hillsides + had all been carefully cultivated. Savages leaning on spears + watched us puff heavily by. Women, richly ornamented with copper + wire or beads, toiled along bent under loads carried by means of + a band across the top of the head.<A name='FNanchor_16_16' id= + "FNanchor_16_16"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_16_16'><SUP>[16]</SUP></A> Naked children rushed out + to wave at us. We were steaming quite comfortably through Africa + as it had been for thousands of years before the white man + came.</P> + + <P>At Kikuyu Station we came to a halt. Kikuyu Station ordinarily + embarks about two passengers a month, I suppose. Now it was + utterly swamped with business, for on it had descended all our + safari of thirty-nine men and three mules. Thirty of the + thirty-nine yelled and shrieked and got in the wrong place, as + usual. C. and the train men and the stationmaster and our + responsible boys heaved and tugged and directed, ordered, + commanded. At length the human element was loaded to its places + and locked in. Then the mules had to be urged up a very narrow + gang-lank into a dangerous-looking car. Quite sensibly they + declined to take chances. We persuaded them. The process was + quite simple. Two of the men holding the ends at a safe distance + stretched a light strong cord across the beasts' hind legs, and + sawed it back and forth.</P> + + <P>We clanged the doors shut, climbed aboard, and the train at + last steamed on. Now bits of forest came across our way, deep, + shaded, with trailing curtain vines, and wide leaves as big as + table tops, and high, lush, impenetrable undergrowth full of + flashing birds, fathomless shadows, and inquisitive monkeys. + Occasionally we emerged to the edge of a long oval meadow, set in + depressions among hills, like our Sierra meadows. Indeed so like + were these openings to those in our own wooded mountains that we + always experienced a distinct shock of surprise as the familiar + woods parted to disclose a dark solemn savage with flashing + spear.</P> + + <P>We stopped at various stations, and descended and walked about + in the gathering shadows of the forest. It was getting cool. Many + little things attracted our attention, to remain in our memories + as isolated pictures. Thus I remember one grave savage squatted + by the track playing on a sort of mandoline-shaped instrument. It + had two strings, and he twanged these alternately, without the + slightest effort to change their pitch by stopping with his + fingers. He bent his head sidewise, and listened with the + meticulous attention of a connoisseur. We stopped at that place + for fully ten minutes, but not for a second did he leave off + twanging his two strings, nor did he even momentarily relax his + attention.</P> + + <P>It was now near sundown. We had been climbing steadily. The + train shrieked twice, and unexpectedly slid out to the edge of + the Likipia Escarpment. We looked down once more into the great + Rift Valley.</P> + + <P>The Rift Valley is as though a strip of Africa—extending + half the length of the continent—had in time past sunk + bodily some thousands of feet, leaving a more or less sheer + escarpment on either side, and preserving intact its own + variegated landscape in the bottom. We were on the Likipia + Escarpment. We looked across to the Mau Escarpment, where the + country over which our train had been travelling continued after + its interruption by the valley. And below us were mountains, + streams, plains. The westering sun threw strong slants of light + down and across.</P> + + <P>The engine shut off its power, and we slid silently down the + rather complicated grades and curves of the descent. A noble + forest threw its shadows over us. Through the chance openings we + caught glimpses of the pale country far below. Across high + trestle bridges we rattled, and craned over to see the rushing + white water of the mountain torrents a hundred feet down. The + shriek of our engine echoed and re-echoed weirdly from the + serried trunks of trees and from the great cliffs that seemed to + lift themselves as we descended.</P> + + <P>We debarked at Kijabe<A name='FNanchor_17_17' id= + "FNanchor_17_17"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_17_17'><SUP>[17]</SUP></A> well after dark. It is + situated on a ledge in the escarpment, is perhaps a quarter-mile + wide, and includes nothing more elaborate than the station, a row + of Indian dukkas, and two houses of South Africans set back + towards the rise in the cliffs. A mile or so away, and on a + little higher level, stand the extensive buildings of an American + mission. It is, I believe, educational as well as sectarian, is + situated in one of the most healthful climates of East Africa, + and is prosperous.</P> + + <P>At the moment we saw none of these things. We were too busy + getting men, mules, and equipment out of the train. Our lanterns + flared in the great wind that swept down the defile; and across + the track little fires flared too. Shortly we made the + acquaintance of the South Africander who furnished us our ox + teams and wagon; and of a lank, drawling youth who was to be our + "rider." The latter was very anxious to get started, so we piled + all our stores and equipment but those immediately necessary for + the night aboard the great wagon. Then we returned to the + dak-bungalow for a very belated supper. While eating this we + discussed our plans.</P> + + <P>These were in essence very simple. Somewhere south of the + Great Thirst of the Sotik a river called the Narossara. Back of + the river were high mountains, and down the river were benches + dropping off by thousands of feet to the barren country of Lake + Magahdi. Over some of this country ranged the Greater Kudu, + easily the prize buck of East Africa. We intended to try for a + Greater Kudu.</P> + + <P>People laughed at us. The beast is extremely rare; it ranges + over a wide area; it inhabits the thickest sort of cover in a + sheer mountainous country; its senses are wonderfully acute; and + it is very wary. A man <I>might</I>, once in a blue moon, get one + by happening upon it accidentally, but deliberately to go after + it was sheer lunacy. So we were told. As a matter of fact, we + thought so ourselves, but Greater Kudu was as good an excuse as + another.</P> + + <P>The most immediate of our physical difficulties was the + Thirst. Six miles from Kijabe we would leave the Kedong River. + After that was no more water for two days and nights. During that + time we should be forced to travel and rest in alternation day + and night, with a great deal of travel and very little rest. We + should be able to carry for the men a limited amount of water on + the ox wagon, but the cattle could not drink. It was a hard, + anxious grind. A day's journey beyond the first water after the + Thirst we should cross the Southern Guaso Nyero River.<A name= + 'FNanchor_18_18' id="FNanchor_18_18"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_18_18'><SUP>[18]</SUP></A> Then two days should land + us at the Narossara. There we must leave our ox wagon and push on + with our tiny safari. We planned to relay back for porters from + our different camps.</P> + + <P>That was our whole plan. Our transport rider's object in + starting this night was to reach the Kedong River, and there to + outspan until our arrival next day. The cattle would thus get a + good feed and rest. Then at four in the afternoon we would set + out to conquer the Thirst. After that it would be a question of + travelling to suit the oxen.</P> + + <P>Next morning, when we arose, we found one of the wagon Kikuyus + awaiting us. His tale ran that after going four miles, the oxen + had been stampeded by lions. In the mix-up the dusselboom had + been broken. He demanded a new dusselboom. I looked as wise as + though I knew just what that meant; and told him largely, to help + himself. Shortly he departed carrying what looked to be the + greater part of a forest tree.</P> + + <P>We were in no hurry, so we did not try to get our safari under + way before eight o'clock. It consisted of twenty-nine porters, + the gunbearers, three personal boys, three syces, and the cook. + Of this lot some few stand out from the rest, and deserve + particular attention.</P> + + <P>Of course I had my veterans, Memba Sasa and Mohammed. There + was also Kongoni, gunbearer, elsewhere described. The third + gunbearer was Marrouki, a Wakamba. He was the personal gunbearer + of a Mr. Twigg, who very courteously loaned him for this trip as + possessing some knowledge of the country. He was a small person, + with stripes about his eyes; dressed in a Scotch highland cap, + khaki breeches, and a shooting coat miles too big for him. His + soul was earnest, his courage great, his training good, his + intelligence none too brilliant. Timothy, our cook, was pure + Swahili. He was a thin, elderly individual, with a wrinkled brow + of care. This represented a conscientious soul. He tried hard to + please, but he never could quite forget that he had cooked for + the Governor's safari. His air was always one of silent + disapproval of our modest outfit. So well did he do, however, + often under trying circumstances, that at the close of the + expedition Billy presented him with a very fancy knife. To her + vast astonishment he burst into violent sobs.</P> + + <P>"Why, what is it?" she asked.</P> + + <P>"Oh, memsahib," he wailed, "I wanted a watch!"</P> + + <P>As personal boy Billy had a Masai named Geyeye.<A name= + 'FNanchor_19_19' id="FNanchor_19_19"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_19_19'><SUP>[19]</SUP></A> The members of this proud + and aristocratic tribe rarely condescend to work for the white + man; but when they do, they are very fine servants, for they are + highly intelligent. Geyeye was short and very, very ugly. Perhaps + this may partly explain his leaving tribal life, for the Masai + generally are over six feet.</P> + + <P>C.'s man was an educated Coast Swahili named Abba Ali. This + individual was very smart. He wore a neatly-trimmed Vandyke + beard, a flannel boating hat, smart tailored khakis, and carried + a rattan cane. He was alert, quick, and intelligent. His position + was midway between that of personal boy and headman.</P> + + <P>Of the rank and file we began with twenty-nine. Two changed + their minds before we were fairly started, and departed in the + night. There was no time to get regular porters; but fortunately + a Kikuyu chief detailed two wild savages from his tribe to act as + carriers. These two children of nature drifted in with pleasant + smiles and little else save knick-knacks. From our supplies we + gave them two thin jerseys, reaching nearly to the knees. Next + day they appeared with broad tucks sewed around the middle! They + looked like "My Mama didn't use wool soap." We then gave it up, + and left them free and untrammelled.</P> + + <P>They differed radically. One was past the first enthusiasms + and vanities of youth. He was small, unobtrusive, unornamented. + He had no possessions save the jersey, the water-bottle, and the + blanket we ourselves supplied. The blanket he crossed bandolier + fashion on one shoulder. It hung down behind like a tasselled + sash. His face was little and wizened and old. He was quiet and + uncomplaining, and the "easy mark" for all the rest. We had + constantly to be interfering to save him from imposition as to + too heavy loads, too many jobs, and the like. Nearing the close + of the long expedition, when our loads were lighter and fewer, + one day C. spoke up.</P> + + <P>"I'm going to give the old man a good time," said he. "I doubt + if he's ever had one before, or if he ever will again. He's that + sort of a meek damnfool."</P> + + <P>So it was decreed that Kimau<A name='FNanchor_20_20' id= + "FNanchor_20_20"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_20_20'><SUP>[20]</SUP></A> should carry nothing for + the rest of the trip, was to do no more work, was to have all he + wanted to eat. It was a treat to see him. He accepted these + things without surprise, without spoken thanks; just as he would + have accepted an increased supply of work and kicks. Before his + little fire he squatted all day, gazing vacantly off into space, + or gnawing on a piece of the meat he always kept roasting on + sticks. He spoke to no one; he never smiled or displayed any + obvious signs of enjoyment; but from him radiated a feeling of + deep content.</P> + + <P>His companion savage was a young blood, and still affected by + the vanities of life. His hair he wore in short tight curls, + resembling the rope hair of a French poodle, liberally anointed + with castor-oil and coloured with red-paint clay. His body, too, + was turned to bronze by the same method, so that he looked like a + beautiful smooth metal statue come to life. To set this quality + off he wore glittering collars, bracelets, and ear ornaments of + polished copper and brass. When he joined us his sole costume was + a negligent two-foot strip of cotton cloth. After he had received + his official jersey, he carefully tied the cloth over his + wonderful head; nor as far as we knew did he again remove it + until the end of the expedition. All his movements were + inexpressibly graceful. They reminded one somehow of Flaxman's + drawings of the Greek gods. His face, too, was good-natured and + likeable. A certain half feminine, wild grace, combined with the + queer effect of his headgear, caused us to name him Daphne. At + home he was called Kingangui. At first he carried his burden + after the fashion of savages—on the back; and kept to the + rear of the procession; and at evening consorted only with old + Lightfoot. As soon as opportunity offered, he built himself a + marvellous iridescent ball of marabout feathers. Each of these he + split along the quill, so that they curled and writhed in the + wind. This picturesque charm he suspended from a short pole in + front of his tent. Also, he belonged to the Kikuyu tribe; he ate + no game meat, but confined his diet to cornmeal porridge. We were + much interested in watching Daphne's gradual conversion from + savage ways to those of the regular porter. Within two weeks he + was carrying his load on his head or shoulder, and trying to keep + up near the head of the safari. The charm of feathers disappeared + shortly after, I am sorry to say. He took his share of the meat. + Within two months Daphne was imitating as closely as possible the + manners and customs of his safari mates. But he never really + succeeded in looking anything but the wild and graceful savage he + was.</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_16_16' id= + "Footnote_16_16"></A><A href='#FNanchor_16_16'>[16]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>After the fashion of the Canadian tump line.</P> + </DIV><A name='Footnote_17_17' id="Footnote_17_17"></A><A href= + '#FNanchor_17_17'>[17]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>Pronounce all the syllables.</P> + </DIV><A name='Footnote_18_18' id="Footnote_18_18"></A><A href= + '#FNanchor_18_18'>[18]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>An entirely different stream from that flowing north of Mt. + Kenia.</P> + </DIV><A name='Footnote_19_19' id="Footnote_19_19"></A><A href= + '#FNanchor_19_19'>[19]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>Pronounce <I>every</I> syllable.</P> + </DIV><A name='Footnote_20_20' id="Footnote_20_20"></A><A href= + '#FNanchor_20_20'>[20]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>His official name was Lightfoot, Queen of the Fairies, + because of his ballet-like costume.</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXXIV' id="XXXIV"></A> + + <H2>XXXIV.</H2> + + <P>TO THE KEDONG.</P><BR> + + <P>For four hours we descended the valley through high thorn + scrub or the occasional grassy openings. We were now in the floor + of the Rift Valley, and both along the escarpments and in the + floor of the great blue valley itself mountains were all about + us. Most of the large ones were evidently craters; and everywhere + were smaller kopjes or buttes, that in their day had also served + as blow holes for subterranean fires.</P> + + <P>At the end of this time we arrived at the place where we were + supposed to find the wagon. No wagon was there.</P> + + <P>The spot was in the middle of a level plain on which grew very + scattered bushes, a great deal like the sparser mesquite growths + of Arizona. Towards the Likipia Escarpment, and about half-way to + its base, a line of trees marked the course of the Kedong River. + Beyond that, fairly against the mountain, we made out a settler's + house.</P> + + <P>Leaving Billy and the safari, C. and I set out for this house. + The distance was long, and we had not made half of it before + thunder clouds began to gather. They came up thick and black + behind the escarpment, and rapidly spread over the entire + heavens. We found the wagon shortly, still mending its + dusselboom, or whatever the thing was. Leaving instructions for + it to proceed to a certain point on the Kedong River, we started + back for our safari.</P> + + <P>It rained. In ten minutes the dusty plains, as far as the eye + could reach, were covered with water two or three inches deep, + from which the sparse bunches of grasses grew like reeds in a + great marshy lake. We splashed along with the water over our + ankles. The channels made by the game trails offered natural + conduits, and wherever there was the least grade they had become + rushing brooks. We found the safari very bedraggled. Billy had + made a mound of valuables, atop which she perched, her waterproof + cape spread as wide as possible, a good deal like a brooding hen. + We set out for the meeting-point on the Kedong. In half an hour + we had there found a bit of higher ground and had made camp.</P> + + <P>As suddenly as they had gathered the storm clouds broke away. + The expiring sun sent across the valley a flood of golden light, + that gilded the rugged old mountain of Suswa over the way.</P> + + <P>"Directly on the other side of Suswa," C. told me, "there is a + 'pan' of hard clay. This rain will fill it, and we shall find + water there. We can take a night's rest, and set off comfortably + in the morning."</P> + + <P>So the rain that had soaked us so thoroughly was a blessing + after all. While we were cooking supper the wagon passed us, its + wheels and frame creaking, its great whip cracking like a rifle, + its men shrieking at the imperturbable team of eighteen oxen. It + would travel until the oxen wanted to graze, or sleep, or scratch + an ear, or meditate on why is a Kikuyu. Thereupon they would be + outspanned and allowed to do it, whatever it was, until they were + ready to go on again. Then they would go on. These sequences + might take place at any time of the day or night, and for greater + or lesser intervals of time. That was distinctly up to the oxen; + the human beings had mighty little to say in the matter. But + transport riding, from the point of view of the rank outsider, + really deserves a chapter of its own.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXXV' id="XXXV"></A> + + <H2>XXXV.</H2> + + <P>THE TRANSPORT RIDER.</P><BR> + + <P>The wagon is one evolved in South Africa—a long, + heavily-constructed affair, with ingenious braces and timbers so + arranged as to furnish the maximum clearance with the greatest + facility for substitution in case the necessity for repairs might + arise. The whole vehicle can be dismounted and reassembled in a + few hours; so that unfordable streams or impossible bits of + country can be crossed piecemeal. Its enormous wheels are set + wide apart. The brake is worked by a crank at the rear, like a + reversal of the starting mechanism of a motor car. Bolted to the + frame on either side between the front and rear wheels are + capacious cupboards, and two stout water kegs swing to and fro + when the craft is under way. The net carrying capacity of such a + wagon is from three to four thousand pounds.</P> + + <P>This formidable vehicle, in our own case, was drawn by a team + of eighteen oxen. The biggest brutes, the wheelers, were attached + to a tongue, all the others pulled on a long chain. The only + harness was the pronged yoke that fitted just forward of the + hump. Over rough country the wheelers were banged and jerked + about savagely by the tongue; they did not seem to mind it but + exhibited a certain amount of intelligence in manipulation.</P> + + <P>To drive these oxen we had one white man named Brown, and two + small Kikuyu savages. One of these worked the brake crank in the + rear while the other preceded the lead cattle. Brown exercised + general supervision, a long-lashed whip and Boer-Dutch expletives + and admonitions.</P> + + <P>In transport riding, as this game is called, there is required + a great amount of especial skill though not necessarily a high + degree of intelligence. Along the flats all goes well enough, but + once in the unbelievable rough country of a hill trek the + situation alters. A man must know cattle and their symptoms. It + is no light feat to wake up eighteen sluggish bovine minds to the + necessity for effort, and then to throw so much dynamic energy + into the situation that the whole eighteen will begin to pull at + once. That is the secret, unanimity; an ox is the most easily + discouraged working animal on earth. If the first three couples + begin to haul before the others have aroused to their effort, + they will not succeed in budging the wagon an inch, but after a + moment's struggle will give up completely. By that time the + leaders respond to the command and throw themselves forward in + the yoke. In vain. They cannot pull the wagon and their wheel + comrades too. Therefore they give up. By this time, perhaps, the + lash has aroused the first lot to another effort. And so they go, + pulling and hauling against each other, getting nowhere, until + the end is an exhausted team, a driver half insane, and a great + necessity for unloading.</P> + + <P>A good driver, on the other hand, shrieks a few premonitory + Dutch words—and then! I suppose inside those bovine heads + the effect is somewhat that of a violent electric explosion. At + any rate it hits them all at once, and all together, in response, + they surge against their yokes. The heavily laden wagon creaks, + groans, moves forward. The hurricane of Dutch and the volleys of + whip crackings rise to a crescendo. We are off!</P> + + <P>To perform just this little simple trick of getting the thing + started requires not only a peculiar skill or gift, but also + lungs of brass and a throat of iron. A transport rider without a + voice is as a tenor in the same fix. He may—and + does—get so hoarse that it is a pain to hear him; but as + long as he can croak in good volume he is all right. Mere + shouting will not do. He must shriek, until to the sympathetic + bystander it seems that his throat must split wide open. + Furthermore, he must shriek the proper things. It all sounds + alike to every one but transport riders and oxen; but as a matter + of fact it is Boer-Dutch, nicely assorted to suit different + occasions. It is incredible that oxen should distinguish; but, + then, it is also incredible that trout should distinguish the + nice differences in artificial flies.</P> + + <P>After the start has been made successfully, the craft must be + kept under way. To an unbiassed bystander the whole affair looks + insane. The wagon creaks and sways and groans and cries aloud as + it bumps over great boulders in the way; the leading Kikuyu + dances nimbly and shrills remarks at the nearest cattle; the tail + Kikuyu winds energetically back and forth on his little handle, + and tries to keep his feet. And Brown! he is magnificent! His + long lash sends out a volley of rifle reports, down, up, ahead, + back; his cracked voice roars out an unending stream of apparent + gibberish. Back and forth along the line of the team he skips + nimbly, the sweat streaming from his face. And the oxen plod + along, unhasting, unexcited, their eyes dreamy, chewing the cud + of yesterday's philosophic reflections. The situation conveys the + general impression of a peevish little stream breaking against + great calm cliffs. All this frantic excitement and expenditure of + energy is so apparently purposeless and futile, the calm cattle + seem so aloof and superior to it all, so absolutely unaffected by + it. They are going slowly, to be sure; their gait may be + maddeningly deliberate, but evidently they do not intend to be + hurried. Why not let them take their own speed?</P> + + <P>But all this hullabaloo means something after all. It does its + business, and the top of the boulder-strewn hill is gained. + Without it the whole concern would have stopped, and then the + wagon would have to be unloaded before a fresh start could have + been made. Results with cattle are not shown by facial expression + nor by increased speed, but simply by continuance. They will plod + up steep hills or along the level at the same placid gait. Only + in the former case they require especial treatment.</P> + + <P>In case the wagon gets stuck on a hill, as will occasionally + happen, so that all the oxen are discouraged at once, we would + see one of the Kikuyus leading the team back and forth, back and + forth, on the side hill just ahead of the wagon. This is to + confuse their minds, cause them to forget their failure, and thus + to make another attempt.</P> + + <P>At one stretch we had three days of real mountains. + N'gombe<A name='FNanchor_21_21' id="FNanchor_21_21"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_21_21'><SUP>[21]</SUP></A> Brown shrieked like a steam + calliope all the way through. He lasted the distance, but had + little camp-fire conversation even with his beloved Kikuyus.</P> + + <P>When the team is outspanned, which in the waterless country of + forced marches is likely to be almost any time of the day or + night, N'gombe Brown sought a little rest. For this purpose he + had a sort of bunk that let down underneath the wagon. If it were + daytime, the cattle were allowed to graze under supervision of + one of the Kikuyus. If it was night time they were tethered to + the long chain, where they lay in a somnolent double row. A + lantern at the head of the file and one at the wagon's tail were + supposed to discourage lions. In a bad lion country fires were + added to these defences.</P> + + <P>N'gombe Brown thus worked hard through varied and long hours + in strict intimacy with stupid and exasperating beasts. After + working hours he liked to wander out to watch those same beasts + grazing! His mind was as full of cattle as that! Although we + offered him reading matter, he never seemed to care for it, nor + for long-continued conversation with white people not of his + trade. In fact the only gleam of interest I could get out of him + was by commenting on the qualities or peculiarities of the oxen. + He had a small mouth-organ on which he occasionally performed, + and would hold forth for hours with his childlike Kikuyus. In the + intelligence to follow ordinary directions he was an infant. We + had to iterate and reiterate in words of one syllable our + directions as to routes and meeting-points, and then he was quite + as apt to go wrong as right. Yet, I must repeat, he knew + thoroughly all the ins and outs of a very difficult trade, and + understood, as well, how to keep his cattle always fit and in + good condition. In fact he was a little hipped on what the "dear + n'gombes" should or should not be called upon to do.</P> + + <P>One incident will illustrate all this better than I could + explain it. When we reached the Narossara River we left the wagon + and pushed on afoot. We were to be gone an indefinite time, and + we left N'gombe Brown and his outfit very well fixed. Along the + Narossara ran a pleasant shady strip of high jungle; the country + about was clear and open; but most important of all, a white man + of education and personal charm occupied a trading boma, or + enclosure, near at hand. An accident changed our plans and + brought us back unexpectedly at the end of a few weeks. We found + that N'gombe Brown had trekked back a long day's journey, and was + encamped alone at the end of a spur of mountains. We sent native + runners after him. He explained his change of base by saying that + the cattle feed was a little better at his new camp! Mind you + this: at the Narossara the feed was quite good enough, the oxen + were doing no work, there was companionship, books, papers, and + even a phonograph to while away the long weeks until our return. + N'gombe Brown quite cheerfully deserted all this to live in + solitude where he imagined the feed to be microscopically + better!</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_21_21' id= + "Footnote_21_21"></A><A href='#FNanchor_21_21'>[21]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>N'gombe = oxen.</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXXVI' id="XXXVI"></A> + + <H2>XXXVI.</H2> + + <P>ACROSS THE THIRST.</P><BR> + + <P>We were off, a bright, clear day after the rains. Suswa hung + grayish pink against the bluest of skies. Our way slanted across + the Rift Valley to her base, turned the corner, and continued on + the other side of the great peak until we had reached the + rainwater "pan" on her farther side. It was a long march.</P> + + <P>The plains were very wide and roomy. Here and there on them + rose many small cones and craters, lava flows and other varied + evidences of recent volcanic activity. Geologically recent, I + mean. The grasses of the flowing plains were very brown, and the + molehill craters very dark; the larger craters blasted and + austere; the higher escarpment in the background blue with a + solemn distance. The sizes of things were not originally fitted + out for little tiny people like human beings. We walked hours to + reach landmarks apparently only a few miles away.</P> + + <P>In this manner we crept along industriously until noon, by + which time we had nearly reached the shoulder of Suswa, around + which we had to double. The sun was strong, and the men not yet + hardened to the work. We had many stragglers. After lunch Memba + Sasa and I strolled along on a route flanking that of the safari, + looking for the first of our meat supply. Within a short time I + had killed a Thompson's gazelle. Some solemn giraffes looked on + at the performance, and then moved off like mechanical toys.</P> + + <P>The day lengthened. We were in the midst of wonderful scenery. + Our objection grew to be that it took so long to put any of it + behind us. Insensibly, however, we made progress. Suddenly, as it + seemed, we found ourselves looking at the other side of Suswa, + and various brand-new little craters had moved up to take the + places of our old friends. At last, about half-past four, we + topped the swell of one of the numerous and interminable land + billows that undulate across all plains countries here, and saw a + few miles away the wagon outspanned. We reached it about sunset, + to be greeted by the welcome news that there was indeed water in + the pan.</P> + + <P>We unsaddled just before dark, and I immediately started + towards the game herds, many of which were grazing a half-mile + away. The gazelle would supply our own larder, but meat for + hard-worked man was very desirable. I shot a hartebeeste, made + the prearranged signal for men to carry meat, and returned to + camp.</P> + + <P>Even yet the men were not all in. We took lanterns and + returned along the road, for the long marches under a desert sun + are no joke. At last we had accounted for all but two. These we + had to abandon. Next day we found their loads, but never laid + eyes on them again. Thus early our twenty-nine became + twenty-seven.</P> + + <P>About nine o'clock, just as we were turning, a number of lions + began to roar. Usually a lion roars once or twice by way of + satisfaction after leaving a kill. These, however, were engaged + in driving game, and hence trying to make as much noise as + possible. We distinguished plainly seven individuals, perhaps + more. The air trembled with the sound as to the deepest tones of + a big organ, only the organ is near and enclosed, while these + vibrations were in the open air and remote. For a few moments the + great salvos would boom across the veld, roll after roll of + thunder; then would ensue a momentary dead silence; then a single + voice would open, to be joined immediately by the others.</P> + + <P>We awoke next day to an unexpected cold drizzle. This was a + bit uncomfortable, from one point of view, and most unusual, but + it robbed the thirst of its terrors. We were enabled to proceed + leisurely, and to get a good sleep near water every night. The + wagon had, as usual, pulled out some time during the night.</P> + + <P>Our way led over a succession of low rolling ridges each + higher than its predecessor. Game herds fed in the shallow + valleys between. At about ten o'clock we came to the foot of the + Mau Escarpment, and also to the unexpected sight of the wagon + outspanned. N'gombe Brown explained to us that the oxen had + refused to proceed farther in face of a number of lions that came + around to sniff at them. Then the rain had come on, and he had + been unwilling to attempt the Mau while the footing was slippery. + This sounded reasonable; in fact, it was still reasonable. The + grass was here fairly neck high, and we found a rain-filled + water-hole. Therefore we decided to make camp. C. and I wandered + out in search of game. We tramped a great deal of bold, rugged + country, both in cañon bottoms and along the open ridges, + but found only a rhinoceros, one bush-buck and a dozen + hartebeeste. African game, as a general rule, avoids a country + where the grass grows very high. We enjoyed, however, some bold + and wonderful mountain scenery, and obtained glimpses through the + flying murk of the vast plains and the base of Suswa. On a + precipitous cañon cliff we found a hanging garden of + cactus and of looped cactus-like vines that was a marvel to + behold. We ran across the hartebeeste on our way home. Our men + were already out of meat; the hartebeeste of yesterday had + disappeared. These porters are a good deal like the old-fashioned + Michigan lumberjacks—they take a good deal of feeding for + the first few days. When we came upon the little herd in the + neck-high grass, I took a shot. At the report the animal went + down flat. We wandered over slowly. Memba Sasa whetted his knife + and walked up. Thereupon Mr. Hartebeeste jumped to his feet, + flirted his tail gaily, and departed. We followed him a mile or + so, but he got stronger and gayer every moment, until at last he + frisked out of the landscape quite strong and hearty. In all my + African experience I lost only six animals hit by bullets, as I + took infinite pains and any amount of time to hunt down wounded + beasts. This animal was, I think, "creased" by too high a shot. + Certainly he was not much injured; but certainly he got a big + shock to start with.</P> + + <P>The little herd had gone on. I got down and crawled on hands + and knees in the thick grass. It was slow work, and I had to + travel by landmarks. When I finally reckoned I had about reached + the proper place, I stood up suddenly, my rifle at ready. So + dense was the cover and so still the air that I had actually + crawled right into the middle of the band! While we were cutting + up the meat the sun broke through strongly.</P> + + <P>Therefore the wagon started on up the Mau at six o'clock. + Twelve hours later we followed. The fine drizzle had set in + again. We were very glad the wagon had taken advantage of the + brief dry time.</P> + + <P>From the top of the sheer rise we looked back for the last + time over the wonderful panorama of the Rift Valley. Before us + were wide rounded hills covered with a scattered small growth + that in general appearance resembled scrub oak. It sloped away + gently until it was lost in mists. Later, when these cleared, we + saw distant blue mountains across a tremendous shallow basin. We + were nearly on a level with the summit of Suswa itself, nor did + we again drop much below that altitude. After five or six miles + we overtook the wagon outspanned. The projected all-night journey + had again been frustrated by the lions. These beasts had proved + so bold and menacing that finally the team had been forced to + stop in sheer self-defence. However, the day was cool and + overcast, so nothing was lost.</P> + + <P>After topping the Mau we saw a few gazelle, zebra, and + hartebeeste, but soon plunged into a bush country quite destitute + of game. We were paralleling the highest ridge of the escarpment, + and so alternated between the crossing of cañons and the + travelling along broad ridges between them. In lack of other + amusement for a long time I rode with the wagon. The country was + very rough and rocky. Everybody was excited to the point of + frenzy, except the wagon. It had a certain Dutch stolidity in its + manner of calmly and bumpily surmounting such portions of the + landscape as happened in its way.</P> + + <P>After a very long, tiresome march we camped above a little + stream. Barring our lucky rain this would have been the first + water since leaving the Kedong River. Here were hundreds of big + blue pigeons swooping in to their evening drink.</P> + + <P>For two days more we repeated this sort of travel, but always + with good camps at fair-sized streams. Gradually we slanted away + from the main ridge, though we still continued cross-cutting the + swells and ravines thrown off its flanks. Only the ravines hour + by hour became shallower, and the swells lower and broader. On + their tops the scrub sometimes gave way to openings of short + grass. On these fed a few gazelle of both sorts, and an + occasional zebra or so. We saw also four topi, a beast about the + size of our wapiti, built on the general specifications of a + hartebeeste, but with the most beautiful iridescent plum-coloured + coat. This quartette was very wild. I made three separate stalks + on them, but the best I could do was 360 paces, at which range I + missed.</P> + + <P>Finally we surmounted the last low swell to look down a wide + and sloping plain to the depression in which flowed the principal + river of these parts, the Southern Guaso Nyero. Beyond it + stretched the immense oceanlike plains of the Loieta, from which + here and there rose isolated hills, very distant, like lonesome + ships at sea. A little to the left, also very distant, we could + make out an unbroken blue range of mountains. These were our + ultimate destination.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXXVII' id="XXXVII"></A> + + <H2>XXXVII.</H2> + + <P>THE SOUTHERN GUASO NYERO.</P><BR> + + <P>The Southern Guaso Nyero, unlike its northern namesake, is a + sluggish, muddy stream, rather small, flowing between abrupt clay + banks. Farther down it drops into great cañons and eroded + abysses, and acquires a certain grandeur. But here, at the ford + of Agate's Drift, it is decidedly unimpressive. Scant greenery + ornaments its banks. In fact, at most places they run hard and + baked to a sheer drop-off of ten or fifteen feet. Scattered + mimosa trees and aloes mark its course. The earth for a mile or + so is trampled by thousands of Masai cattle that at certain + seasons pass through the funnel of this, the only ford for miles. + Apparently insignificant, it is given to sudden, tremendous + rises. These originate in the rainfalls of the upper Mau + Escarpment, many miles away. It behooves the safari to cross + promptly if it can, and to camp always on the farther bank.</P> + + <P>This we did, pitching our tents in a little opening, between + clumps of pretty flowering aloes and the mimosas. Here, as + everywhere in this country, until we had passed the barrier of + the Narossara mountains, the common horseflies were a plague. + They follow the Masai cattle. I can give you no better idea of + their numbers than to tell you two isolated facts: I killed + twenty-one at one blow; and in the morning, before sunrise, the + apex of our tent held a solid black mass of the creatures running + the length of the ridge pole, and from half an inch to two inches + deep! Every pack was black with them on the march, and the wagon + carried its millions. When the shadow of a branch would cross + that slowly lumbering vehicle, the swarm would rise and bumble + around distractedly for a moment before settling down again. They + fairly made a nimbus of darkness.</P> + + <P>After we had made camp we saw a number of Masai warriors + hovering about the opposite bank, but they did not venture + across. Some of their women did, however, and came cheerily into + camp. These most interesting people are worth more than a casual + word, so I shall reserve my observations on them until a later + chapter. One of our porters, a big Baganda named Sabakaki, was + suffering severely from pains in the chest that subsequently + developed into pleurisy. From the Masai women we tried to buy + some of the milk they carried in gourds; at first they seemed not + averse, but as soon as they realized the milk was not for our own + consumption, they turned their backs on poor Sabakaki and refused + to have anything more to do with us.</P> + + <P>These Masai are very difficult to trade with. Their only + willing barter is done in sheep. These they seem to consider + legitimate objects of commerce. A short distance from our camp + stood three whitewashed round houses with thatched, conical + roofs, the property of a trader named Agate. He was away at the + time of our visit.</P> + + <P>After an early morning, but vain, attempt to get Billy a shot + at a lion<A name='FNanchor_22_22' id= + "FNanchor_22_22"></A><A href='#Footnote_22_22'><SUP>[22]</SUP></A> + we set out for our distant blue mountains. The day was a journey + over plains of great variegation. At times they were covered with + thin scrub; at others with small groves; or again, they were open + and grassy. Always they undulated gently, so from their tops one + never saw as far as he thought he was going to see. As landmark + we steered by a good-sized butte named Donga Rasha.</P> + + <P>Memba Sasa and I marched ahead on foot. In this thin scrub we + got glimpses of many beasts. At one time we were within fifty + yards of a band of magnificent eland. By fleeting glimpses we saw + also many wildebeeste and zebra, with occasionally one of the + smaller grass antelope. Finally, in an open glade we caught sight + of something tawny showing in the middle of a bush. It was too + high off the ground to be a buck. We sneaked nearer. At fifty + yards we came to a halt, still puzzled. Judging by its height and + colour, it should be a lion, but try as we would we could not + make out what part of his anatomy was thus visible. At last I + made up my mind to give him a shot from the Springfield, with the + ·405 handy. At the shot the tawny patch heaved and lay + still. We manoeuvred cautiously, and found we had killed stone + dead not a lion, but a Bohur reed-buck lying atop an ant hill + concealed in the middle of the bush. This accounted for its + height above the ground. As it happened, I very much wanted one + of these animals as a specimen, so everybody was satisfied.</P> + + <P>Shortly after, attracted by a great concourse of carrion + birds, both on trees and in the air, we penetrated a thicket to + come upon a full-grown giraffe killed by lions. The claw marks + and other indications were indubitable. The carcass had been + partly eaten, but was rapidly vanishing under the attacks of the + birds.</P> + + <P>Just before noon we passed Donga Rasha and emerged on the open + plains. Here I caught sight of some Roberts' gazelle, a new + species to me, and started alone in pursuit. They, as usual, + trotted over the nearest rise, so with due precautions I followed + after. At the top of that rise I lay still in astonishment. + Before me marched solemnly an unbroken single file of game, + reaching literally to my limit of vision in both directions. They + came over the land swell a mile to my left, and they were + disappearing over another land swell a mile and a half to my + right. It was rigidly single file, except for the young; the nose + of one beast fairly touching the tail of the one ahead, and it + plodded along at a businesslike walk. There were but three + species represented—the gnu, the zebra, and the + hartebeeste. I did not see the head of the procession, for it had + gone from sight before I arrived; nor did I ever see the tail of + it either, for the safari appearing inopportunely broke its + continuance. But I saw two miles and a half, solid, of big game. + It was a great and formal trek, probably to new pastures.</P> + + <P>Then I turned my attention to the Roberts' gazelle, and my + good luck downed a specimen at 273 yards. This, with the Bohur + reed-buck, made the second new species for the day. Our luck was + not yet over, however. We had proceeded but a few miles when + Kongoni discovered a herd of topi. The safari immediately lay + down, while I went ahead. There was little cover, and I had a + very hard time to get within range, especially as a dozen zebras + kept grazing across the line of my stalks. The topi themselves + were very uneasy, crossing and recrossing and looking doubtfully + in my direction. I had a number of chances at small bucks, but + refused them in my desire to get a shot at the big leader of the + herd. Finally he separated from the rest and faced in my + direction at just 268 yards. At the shot he fell dead.</P> + + <P>For the first time we had an opportunity to admire the + wonderful pelt. It is beautiful in quality, plum colour, with + iridescent lights and wavy "water marks" changing to pearl colour + on the four quarters, with black legs. We were both struck with + the gorgeousness of a topi motor-rug made of three skins, with + these pearl spots as accents in the corners. To our ambitions and + hopes we added more topi.</P> + + <P>Our journey to the Narossara River lasted three days in all. + We gained an outlying spur of the blue mountains, and skirted + their base. The usual varied foothill country led us through + defiles, over ridges, and by charming groves. We began to see + Masai cattle in great herds. The gentle humpbacked beasts were + held in close formation by herders afoot, tall, lithe young + savages with spears. In the distance and through the heat haze + the beasts shimmered strangely, their glossy reds and whites and + blacks blending together. In this country of wide expanses and + clear air we could thus often make out a very far-off herd simply + as a speck of rich colour against the boundless rolling + plains.</P> + + <P>Here we saw a good variety of game. Zebras, of course, and + hartebeeste; the Roberts' gazelle, a few topi, a good many of the + gnu or wildebeeste discovered and named by Roosevelt; a few + giraffes, klipspringer on the rocky buttes, cheetah, and the + usual jackals, hyenas, etc. I killed one very old zebra. So + ancient was he that his teeth had worn down to the level of the + gums, which seemed fairly on the point of closing over. + Nevertheless he was still fat and sleek. He could not much longer + have continued to crop the grass. Such extreme age in wild + animals is, in Africa at least, most remarkable, for generally + they meet violent deaths while still in their prime.</P> + + <P>About three o'clock of the third afternoon we came in sight of + a long line of forest trees running down parallel with the + nearest mountain ranges. These marked the course of the + Narossara, and by four o'clock we were descending the last + slope.</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_22_22' id= + "Footnote_22_22"></A><A href='#FNanchor_22_22'>[22]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>See "The Land of Footprints."</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXXVIII' id="XXXVIII"></A> + + <H2>XXXVIII.</H2> + + <P>THE LOWER BENCHES.</P><BR> + + <P>The Narossara is really only about creek size, but as it flows + the whole year round it merits the title of river. It rises in + the junction of a long spur with the main ranges, cuts straight + across a wide inward bend of the mountains, joins them again, + plunges down a deep and tremendous cañon to the level of a + second bench below great cliffs, meanders peacefully in flowery + meadows and delightful glades for some miles, and then once more, + and most unexpectedly, drops eighteen hundred feet by waterfall + and precipitous cascade to join the Southern Guaso Nyero. The + country around this junction is some of the roughest I saw in + Africa.</P> + + <P>We camped at the spot where the river ran at about its maximum + distance from the mountains. Our tents were pitched beneath the + shade of tall and refreshing trees.</P> + + <P>A number of Masai women visited us, laughing and joking with + Billy in their quizzically humorous fashion. Just as we were + sitting down at table an Englishman wandered out of the greenery + and approached. He was a small man with a tremendous red beard, + wore loose garments and tennis shoes, and strolled up, his hands + in his pockets and smoking a cigarette. This was V., a man of + whom we had heard. A member of a historical family, officer in a + crack English regiment, he had resigned everything to come into + this wild country. Here he had built a boma, or enclosed + compound, and engaged himself in acquiring Masai sheep in + exchange for beads, wire, and cloth. Obviously the profits of + such transactions could not be the temptation. He liked the life, + and he liked his position of influence with these proud and + savage people. Strangely enough, he cared little for the sporting + possibilities of the country, though of course he did a little + occasional shooting; but was quite content with his trading, his + growing knowledge of and intimacy with the Masai, and his + occasional tremendous journeys. To the casual and infrequent + stranger his attitude was reported most uncertain.</P> + + <P>We invited him to tea, which he accepted, and we fell into + conversation. He and C. were already old acquaintances. The man, + I found, was shy about talking of the things that interested him; + but as they most decidedly interested us also we managed to + convey an impression of our sincerity. Thereafter he was most + friendly. His helpfulness, kindness, and courtesy could not have + been bettered. He lent us his own boy as guide down through the + cañons of the Narossara to the Lower Benches, where we + hoped to find kudu; he offered store-room to such of our supplies + as we intended holding in reserve; he sent us sheep and eggs as a + welcome variety to our game diet; and in addition he gave us + Masai implements and ornaments we could not possibly have + acquired in any other way. It is impossible to buy the personal + belongings of this proud and independent people at any price. The + price of a spear ordinarily runs about two rupees' worth, when + one trades with any other tribe. I know of a case where a Masai + was offered fifty rupees for his weapon, but refused scornfully. + V. acquired these things through friendship; and after we had + gained his, he was most generous with them. Thus he presented us + with a thing almost impossible to get and seen rarely outside of + museums—the Masai war bonnet, made of the mane of a lion. + It is in shape and appearance, though not in colour, almost + exactly like the grenadier's shako of the last century. In + addition to this priceless trophy, V. also gave us samples of the + cattle bells, both wooden and metal, ivory ear ornaments, bead + bracelets, steel collars, circumcision knives, sword belts, and + other affairs of like value. But I think that the + <I>apogée</I> of his kindliness was reached when much + later he heard from the native tribes that we were engaged in + penetrating the defiles of the higher mountains. Then he sent + after us a swift Masai runner bearing to us a bottle of whisky + and a message to the effect that V. was afraid we would find it + very cold up there! Think of what that meant; turn it well over + in your mind, with all the circumstances of distance from + supplies, difficulty of transportation and all! We none of us + used whisky in the tropics, so we later returned it with a + suitable explanation and thanks as being too good to waste.</P> + + <P>Next morning, under guidance of our friend's boy, we set out + for the Lower Benches, leaving N'gombe Brown and his outfit to + camp indefinitely until we needed him for the return journey.</P> + + <P>The whole lie of the land hereabout is, roughly speaking, in a + series of shelves. Behind us were the high mountains—the + Fourth Bench; we had been travelling on the plateau of the + Loieta—the Third Bench; now we were to penetrate some + apparently low hills down an unexpected thousand feet to the + Second Bench. This was smaller, perhaps only five miles at its + widest. Its outer rim consisted also of low hills concealing a + drop of precipitous cliffs. There were no passes nor + cañons here—the streams dropped over in + waterfalls—and precarious game trails offered the only + chance for descent. The First Bench was a mere ledge, a mile or + so wide. From it one looked down into the deep gorge of the + Southern Guaso Nyero, and across to a tangle of eroded mountains + and malpais that filled the eye. Only far off in an incredible + distance were other blue mountains that marked the other side of + the great Rift Valley.</P> + + <P>Our present task was to drop from the Third Bench to the + Second. For some distance we followed the Narossara; then, when + it began to drop into its tremendous gorge, we continued along + the hillsides above it until, by means of various "hogs' backs" + and tributary cañons, we were able to regain its level far + below. The going was rough and stony, and hard on the porters, + but the scenery was very wild and fine. We met the river bottom + again in the pleasantest oval meadow with fine big trees. The + mountains quite surrounded us, towering imminent above our heads. + Ahead of us the stream broke through between portals that rose + the full height of the ranges. We followed it, and found + ourselves on the Second Bench.</P> + + <P>Here was grass, high grass in which the boys were almost lost + to sight. Behind us the ramparts rose sheer and high, and over + across the way were some low fifty-foot cliffs that marked a + plateau land. Between the plateau and the ranges from which we + had descended was a sort of slight flat valley through which + meandered the forest trees that marked the stream.</P> + + <P>We turned to the right and marched an hour. The river + gradually approached the plateau, thus leaving between it and the + ramparts a considerable plain, and some low foothills. These + latter were reported to be one of the feeding grounds of the + greater kudu.</P> + + <P>We made a most delightful camp at the edge of great trees by + the stream. The water flowed at the bottom of a little ravine, + precipitous in most places, but with gently sloping banks at the + spot we had chosen. It flowed rapidly over clean gravel, with a + hurrying, tinkling sound. A broad gravel beach was spread on the + hither side of it, like a spacious secret room in the jungle. + Here too was a clear little slope on which to sit, with the + thicket all about, the clean, swift little stream below, the high + forest arches above, and the inquisitive smaller creatures + hovering near. Others had been here before us, the wild things, + taking advantage of the easy descent to drinking + water—eland, buffalo, leopard, and small bucks. The air was + almost cloyingly sweet with a perfume like sage-brush honey.</P> + + <P>Our first task was to set our boys to work clearing a space; + the grass was so high and rank that mere trampling had little + effect on it. The Baganda, Sabakaki, we had been compelled to + leave with the ox team. So our twenty-seven had become + twenty-six.</P> + + <P>Next morning C. and I started out very early with one + gunbearer. The direction of the wind compelled us to a two hours' + walk before we could begin to hunt. The high grass was soaked + with a very heavy dew, and shortly we were as wet as though we + had fallen into the river. A number of hornbills and parrots + followed us for some distance, but soon left us in peace. We saw + the Roberts' gazelle and some hartebeeste.</P> + + <P>When we had gained a point of vantage, we turned back and + began to work slowly along the base of the mountains. We kept on + a general level a hundred feet or so up their slope, just high + enough to give us a point of overlook for anything that might + stir either in the flat plateau foothills or the plains. We also + kept a sharp lookout for signs.</P> + + <P>We had proceeded in this manner for an hour when in an opening + between two bushes below us, and perhaps five hundred yards away, + we saw a leopard standing like a statue, head up, a most + beautiful spectacle. While we watched her through the glasses, + she suddenly dropped flat out of sight. The cause we discovered + to be three hartebeeste strolling sociably along, stopping + occasionally to snatch a mouthful, but headed always in the + direction of the bushes behind which lay the great cat. Much + interested, we watched them. They disappeared behind the screen. + A sudden flash marked the leopard's spring. Two badly demoralized + hartebeeste stamped out into the open and away; two only. The + kill had been made.</P> + + <P>We had only the one rifle with us, for we were supposed to be + out after kudu only, and were travelling as light as possible. No + doubt the Springfield would kill a leopard, if the bullet landed + in the right place. We discussed the matter. It ended, of course, + in our sneaking down there; I with the Springfield, and C. with + his knife unsheathed. Our precautions and trepidations were + wasted. The leopard had carried the hartebeeste bodily some + distance, had thrust it under a bush, and had departed. C. + surmised it would return towards evening.</P> + + <P>Therefore we continued after kudu. We found old signs, proving + that the beasts visited this country, but nothing fresh. We saw, + however, the first sing-sing, some impalla, some klipspringer, + and Chanler's reed-buck.</P> + + <P>At evening we made a crafty stalk atop the mesa-like foothills + to a point overlooking the leopard's kill. We lay here looking + the place over inch by inch through our glasses, when an + ejaculation of disgust from Kongoni called our attention. There + at another spot that confounded beast sat like a house cat + watching us cynically. Either we had come too soon, or she had + heard us and retired to what she considered a safe distance. + There was of course no chance of getting nearer; so I sat down, + for a steadier hold, and tried her anyway. At the shot she leaped + high in the air, rolled over once, then recovered her feet and + streaked off at full speed. Just before disappearing over a + slight rise, she stopped to look back. I tried her again. We + concluded this shot a miss, as the distance and light were such + that only sheer luck could have landed the bullet. However, that + luck was with us. Later developments showed that both shots had + hit. One cut a foreleg, but without breaking a bone, and the + other had hit the paunch. One was at 380 paces and the other at + 490.</P> + + <P>We found blood on the trail, and followed it a hundred yards + and over a small ridge to a wide patch of high grass. It was now + dark, the grass was very high, and the animal probably desperate. + The situation did not look good to us, badly armed as we were. So + we returned to camp, resolved to take up the trail again in the + morning.</P> + + <P>Every man in camp turned out next day to help beat the grass. + C., with the ·405, stayed to direct and protect the men; + while I, with the Springfield, sat down at the head of the + ravine. Soon I could hear the shrieks, rattles, shouts, and + whistles of the line of men as they beat through the grass. Small + grass bucks and hares bounded past me; birds came whirring by. I + sat on a little ant hill spying as hard as I could in all + directions. Suddenly the beaters fell to dead silence. Guessing + this as a signal to me that the beast had been seen, I ran to + climb a higher ant hill to the left. From there I discerned the + animal plainly, sneaking along belly to earth, exactly in the + manner of a cat after a sparrow. It was not a woods-leopard, but + the plains-leopard, or cheetah, supposed to be a comparatively + harmless beast.</P> + + <P>At my shot she gave one spring forward and rolled over into + the grass. The nearest porters yelled, and rushed in. I ran, too, + as fast as I could, but was not able to make myself heard above + the row. An instant later the beast came to its feet with a + savage growl and charged the nearest of the men. She was + crippled, and could not move as quickly as usual, but could + hobble along faster than her intended victim could run. This was + a tall and very conceited Kavirondo. He fled, but ran around in + circles in and out of his excited companions. The cheetah + followed him, and him only, with most single-minded purpose.</P> + + <P>I dared not shoot while men were in the line of fire even on + the other side of the cheetah, for I knew the high-power bullet + would at that range go right on through, and I fairly split my + throat trying to clear the way. It seemed five minutes, though it + was probably only as many seconds, before I got my chance. It was + high time. The cheetah had reared to strike the man down.<A name= + 'FNanchor_23_23' id="FNanchor_23_23"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_23_23'><SUP>[23]</SUP></A> My shot bowled her over. + She jumped to her feet again, made another dash at the thoroughly + scared Kavirondo, and I killed her just at his coat-tails.</P> + + <P>The cheetahs ordinarily are supposed to be cowards, although + their size and power are equal to that of other leopards. Nobody + is afraid of them. Yet this particular animal charged with all + the ferocity and determination of the lion, and would certainly + have killed or badly mauled my man.<A name='FNanchor_24_24' id= + "FNanchor_24_24"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_24_24'><SUP>[24]</SUP></A> To be sure it had been + wounded, and had had all night to think about it.</P> + + <P>In the relief from the tension we all burst into shrieks of + laughter; all except the near-victim of the scrimmage, who + managed only a sickly smile. Our mirth was short. Out from a + thicket over a hundred yards away walked one of the men, who had + been in no way involved in the fight, calmly announcing that he + had been shot. We were sceptical, but he turned his back and + showed us the bullet hole at the lower edge of the ribs. One of + my bullets, after passing through the cheetah, had ricocheted and + picked this poor fellow out from the whole of an empty landscape. + And this after I had delayed my rescue fairly to the point of + danger in order to avoid all chance of hurting some one!</P> + + <P>We had no means of telling how deeply the bullet had + penetrated; so we reassured the man, and detailed two men to + assist him back to camp by easy stages. He did not seem to be + suffering much pain, and he had lost little strength.</P> + + <P>At camp, however, we found that the wound was deep. C. + generously offered to make a forced march in order to get the boy + out to a hospital. By hitting directly across the rough country + below the benches it was possible to shorten the journey + somewhat, provided V. could persuade the Masai to furnish a + guide. The country was a desert, and the water scarce. We lined + up our remaining twenty-six men and selected the twelve best and + strongest. These we offered a month and a half's extra wages for + the trip. We then made a hammock out of one of the ground cloths, + and the same afternoon C. started. I sent with him four of my own + men as far as the ox-wagon for the purpose of bringing back more + supplies. They returned the next afternoon bringing also a report + from C. that all was well so far, and that he had seen a lion. He + made the desert trip without other casualty than the lost of his + riding mule, and landed the wounded man in the hospital all + right. In spite of C.'s expert care on the journey out, and the + best of treatment later, the boy, to my great distress, died + eleven days after reaching the hospital. C. was gone just two + weeks.</P> + + <P>In the meantime I sent out my best trackers in all directions + to look for kudu signs, conceiving this the best method of + covering the country rapidly. In this manner I shortly determined + that chances were small here, and made up my mind to move down to + the edge of the bench where the Narossara makes its plunge. + Before doing so, however, I hunted for and killed a very large + eland bull reported by Mavrouki. This beast was not only one of + the largest I ever saw, but was in especially fine coat. He stood + five feet six inches high at the shoulder; was nine feet eight + inches long, without the tail; and would weigh twenty-five + hundred pounds. The men were delighted with this acquisition. I + now had fourteen porters, the three gunbearers, the cook, and the + two boys. They surrounded each tiny fire with switches full of + roasting meat; they cut off great hunks for a stew; they made + quantities of biltong, or jerky.</P> + + <P>Next day I left Kongoni and one porter at the old camp, loaded + my men with what they could carry, and started out. We marched a + little over two hours; then found ourselves beneath a lone mimosa + tree about a quarter-mile from the edge of the bench. At this + point the stream drops into a little cañon preparatory to + its plunge; and the plateau rises ever so gently in tremendous + cliffs. I immediately dispatched the porters back for another + load. A fine sing-sing lured me across the river. I did not get + the sing-sing, but had a good fight with two lions, as narrated + elsewhere.[A]</P> + + <P>In this spot we camped a number of days; did a heap of hard + climbing and spying; killed another lion out of a band of + eight;<A name='FNanchor_25_25' id="FNanchor_25_25"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_25_25'><SUP>[25]</SUP></A> thoroughly determined that + we had come at the wrong time for kudu, and decided on another + move.</P> + + <P>This time our journey lasted five hours, so that our relaying + consumed three days. We broke back through the ramparts, by means + of another pass we had discovered when looking for kudu, to the + Third Bench again. Here we camped in the valley of + Lengeetoto.</P> + + <P>This valley is one of the most beautiful and secluded in this + part of Africa. It is shaped like an ellipse, five or six miles + long by about three miles wide, and is completely surrounded by + mountains. The ramparts of the western side—those forming + the walls of the Fourth Bench—rise in sheer rock cliffs, + forest crowned. To the east, from which direction we had just + come, were high, rounded mountains. At sunrise they cut clear in + an outline of milky slate against the sky.</P> + + <P>The floor of this ellipse was surfaced in gentle undulations, + like the low swells of a summer sea. Between each swell a + singing, clear-watered brook leapt and dashed or loitered through + its jungle. Into the mountains ran broad upward-flung valleys of + green grass; and groves of great forest trees marched down + cañons and out a short distance into the plains. + Everything was fresh and green and cool. We needed blankets at + night, and each morning the dew was cool and sparkling, and the + sky very blue. Underneath the forest trees of the stream beds and + the cañon were leafy rooms as small as a closet, or great + as cathedral aisles. And in the short brush dwelt rhinoceros and + impalla; in the jungles were buffalo and elephant; on the plains + we saw giraffe, hartebeeste, zebra, duiker; and in the bases of + the hills we heard at evening and early morning the roaring of + lions.</P> + + <P>In this charming spot we lingered eight days. Memba Sasa and I + spent most of our time trying to get one of the jungle-dwelling + buffalo without his getting us. In this we were finally + successful.<A name='FNanchor_26_26' id= + "FNanchor_26_26"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_26_26'><SUP>[26]</SUP></A> Then, as it was about time + for C. to return, we moved back to V.'s boma on the Narossara; + relaying, as usual, the carrying of our effects. At this time I + had had to lay off three more men on account of various sorts of + illness, so was still more cramped for transportation facilities. + As we were breaking camp a lioness leaped to her feet from where + she had been lying under a bush. So near was it to camp that I + had not my rifle ready. She must have been lying there within two + hundred yards of our tents, watching all our activities.</P> + + <P>We drew into V.'s boma a little after two o'clock. The man in + charge of our tent did not put in an appearance until next day. + Fortunately V. had an extra tent, which he lent us. We camped + near the river, just outside the edge of the river forest. The + big trees sent their branches out over us very far above, while a + winding path led us to the banks of the river where was a dingle + like an inner room. After dark we sat with V. at our little camp + fire. It was all very beautiful—the skyful of tropical + stars, the silhouette of the forest shutting them out, the velvet + blackness of the jungle flickering with fireflies, the purer + outlines of the hilltops and distant mountains to the left, the + porters' tiny fires before the little white tents; and in the + distance, from the direction of V.'s boma, the irregular throb of + the dance drum and the occasional snatch of barbaric singing + borne down on the night wind from where his Wakambas were holding + an n'goma. A pair of ibis that had been ejected when we made camp + contributed intermittent outraged and raucous squawks from the + tiptop of some neighbouring tree.</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_23_23' id= + "Footnote_23_23"></A><A href='#FNanchor_23_23'>[23]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>This is an interesting fact—that she reared to strike + instead of springing.</P> + </DIV><A name='Footnote_24_24' id="Footnote_24_24"></A><A href= + '#FNanchor_24_24'>[24]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>It must be remembered that this beast had the evening before + killed a 350-pound hartebeeste with ease.</P> + </DIV><A name='Footnote_25_25' id="Footnote_25_25"></A><A href= + '#FNanchor_25_25'>[25]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>"The Land of Footprints."</P> + </DIV><A name='Footnote_26_26' id="Footnote_26_26"></A><A href= + '#FNanchor_26_26'>[26]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>"The Land of Footprints."</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XXXIX' id="XXXIX"></A> + + <H2>XXXIX.</H2> + + <P>NOTES ON THE MASAI.</P><BR> + + <P>It is in no way my intention to attempt a comprehensive + description of this unique people. My personal observation is, of + course, inadequate to that task, and the numerous careful works + on the subject are available to the interested reader.</P> + + <P>The southern branch of the race, among whom we were now + travelling, are very fine physically. Men close to seven feet in + height are not at all uncommon, and the average is well above + six. They are strongly and lithely made. Their skins are a + red-brown or bronze, generally brought to a high state of polish + by liberal anointing. In feature they resemble more the Egyptian + or Abyssinian than the negro cast of countenance. The women are + tall and well formed, with proud, quaintly quizzical faces. Their + expressions and demeanour seem to indicate more independence and + initiative than is usual with most savage women, but whether this + is actually so or not I cannot say.</P> + + <P>On this imposing and pleasing physical foundation your true + Masai is content to build a very slight superstructure of + ornament. His ear-lobes are always stretched to hang down in long + loops, in which small medals, ornaments, decorated blocks of + wood, or the like, are inserted. Long, heavy ovals of ivory, + grooved to accommodate the flesh loop, very finely etched in + decorative designs, are occasionally worn as "stretchers." Around + the neck is a slender iron collar, and on the arms are one or two + glittering bracelets. The sword belt is of leather heavily + beaded, with a short dangling fringe of steel beads. Through this + the short blade is thrust. When in full dress the warrior further + sports a hollow iron knee bell, connected with the belt by a + string of cowrie shells or beads. Often is added a curious + triangular strip of skin fitting over the chest, and reaching + about to the waist. A robe or short cloak of short-haired + sheepskin is sometimes carried for warmth, but not at all for + modesty. The weapons are a long, narrow-bladed heavy spear, the + buffalo hide shield, the short sword, and the war club or rungs. + The women are always shaven-headed, wear voluminous robes of soft + leather, and carry a great weight of heavy wire wound into + anklets and stockings, and brought to a high state of polish. So + extensive are these decorations that they really form a sort of + armour, with breaks only for the elbow and the knee joints. The + married women wear also a great outstanding collar.</P> + + <P>The Masai are pastoral, and keep immense herds and flocks. + Therefore they inhabit the grazing countries, and are nomadic. + Their villages are invariably arranged in a wide circle, the low + huts of mud and wattles facing inwards. The spaces between the + huts are filled in with thick dense thorn brush, thus enclosing a + strong corral, or boma. These villages are called manyattas. They + are built by the women in an incredibly brief space of time. + Indeed, an overchief stopping two days at one place has been + known to cause the construction of a complete village, to serve + only for that period. He then moved on, and the manyatta was + never used again! Nevertheless these low rounded huts, in shape + like a loaf of bread, give a fictitious impression of great + strength and permanency. The smooth and hardened mud resembles + masonry or concrete work. As a matter of fact it is the thinnest + sort of a shell over plaited withies. The single entrance to this + compound may be closed by thorn bush, so that at night, when the + lions are abroad, the Masai and all his herds dwell quite + peaceably and safely inside the boma. Twelve to twenty huts + constitute a village.</P> + + <P>When the grass is fed down, the village moves to a new + location. There is some regulation about this, determined by the + overchiefs, so that one village does not interfere with another. + Beside the few articles of value or of domestic use, the only + things carried away from an old village are the strongly-woven + shield-shaped doors. These are strapped along the flanks of the + donkeys, while the other goods rest between. A donkey pack, Masai + fashion, is a marvellous affair that would not stay on ten + minutes for a white man.</P> + + <P>The Masai perform no agriculture whatever, nor will they eat + game meat. They have no desire whatever for any of the white + man's provisions except sugar. In fact; their sole habitual diet + is mixed cow's blood and milk—no fruits, no vegetables, no + grains, rarely flesh; a striking commentary on extreme vegetarian + claims. The blood they obtain by shooting a very sharp-pointed + arrow into the neck vein of the cow. After the requisite amount + has been drained, the wound is closed and the animal turned into + the herd to recuperate. The blood and milk are then shaken + together in long gourds. Certainly the race seems to thrive on + this strange diet. Only rarely, on ceremonial occasions or when + transportation is difficult, do they eat mutton or goat flesh, + but never beef.</P> + + <P>Of labour, then, about a Masai village, it follows that there + is practically none. The women build the manyattas; there is no + cooking, no tilling of the soil, no searching for wild fruits. + The herd have to be watched by day, and driven in at the fall of + night; that is the task of the boys and the youths who have not + gone through with the quadriennial circumcision ceremonies and + become El-morani, or warriors. Therefore the grown men are + absolutely and completely gentlemen of leisure. In civilization, + the less men do the more important they are inclined to think + themselves. It is so here. Socially the Masai consider themselves + several cuts above anybody else in the country. As social + superiority lies mostly in thinking so hard enough—so that + the inner belief expresses itself in the outward attitude and + manner—the Masai carry it off. Their haughtiness is + magnificent. Also they can look as unsmiling and bored as anybody + anywhere. Consequently they are either greatly admired, or + greatly hated and feared, as the case happens to be, by all the + other tribes. The Kikuyu young men frankly ape the customs and + ornaments of their powerful neighbours. Even the British + Government treats them very gingerly indeed, and allows these + economically useless savages a latitude the more agricultural + tribes do not enjoy. Yet I submit that any people whose property + is in immense herds can more easily be brought to terms than + those who have nothing so valuable to lose.</P> + + <P>As a matter of fact the white man and the Masai have never had + it out. When the English, a few years since, were engaged in + opening the country they carried on quite a stoutly contested + little war with the Wakamba. These people put up so good a fight + that the English anticipated a most bitter struggle with the + Masai, whose territory lay next beyond. To their surprise the + Masai made peace.</P> + + <P>"We have watched the war with the Wakamba," they said, in + effect, "and we have seen the Wakamba kill a great many of your + men. But more of your men came in always, and there were no more + Wakamba to come in and take the places of those who were killed. + We are not afraid. If we should war with you, we would + undoubtedly kill a great many of you, and you would undoubtedly + kill a great many of us. But there can be no use in that. We want + the ranges for our cattle; you want a road. Let us then + agree."</P> + + <P>The result is that to-day the Masai look upon themselves as an + unconquered people, and bear themselves—<I>towards the + other tribes</I>—accordingly. The shrewd common sense and + observation evidenced above must have convinced them that war now + would be hopeless.</P> + + <P>This acute intelligence is not at all incompatible with the + rather bigoted and narrow outlook on life inevitable to a people + whose ideals are made up of fancied superiorities over the rest + of mankind. Witness, the feudal aristocracies of the Middle + Ages.</P> + + <P>With this type the underlying theory of masculine activity is + the military. Some outlet for energy was needed, and in war it + was found. Even the ordinary necessities of primitive agriculture + and of the chase were lacking. The Masai ate neither vegetable, + grain, nor wild game. His whole young manhood, then, could be + spent in no better occupation than the pursuit of warlike + glory—and cows.</P> + + <P>On this rested the peculiar social structure of the people. In + perusing the following fragmentary account the reader must first + of all divest his mind of what he would, according to white man's + standards, consider moral or immoral. Such things must be viewed + from the standpoint of the people believing in them. The Masai + are moral in the sense that they very rigorously live up to their + own customs and creeds. Their women are strictly chaste in the + sense that they conduct no affairs outside those permitted within + the tribe. No doubt, from the Masai point of view, we are + ourselves immoral.</P> + + <P>The small boy, as soon as he is big enough to be + responsible—and that is very early in life—is given, + in company with others, charge of a flock of sheep. Thence he + graduates to the precious herds of cows. He wears little or + nothing; is armed with a throwing club (a long stick), or perhaps + later a broad-bladed, short-headed spear of a pattern peculiar to + boys and young men. His life is thus over the free open hills and + veld until, somewhere between the ages of eighteen and + twenty-one, the year of the circumcision comes. Then he enters on + the long ceremonies that initiate him into the warrior class. My + knowledge of the details of this subject is limited; for while I + had the luck to be in Masailand on the fourth year, such things + are not exhibited freely. The curious reader can find more on the + subject in other books; but as this is confined to personal + experiences I will tell only what I have myself elicited.</P> + + <P>The youth's shaved head is allowed to grow its hair. He hangs + around his brow a dangling string of bright-coloured bird skins + stuffed out in the shape of little cylinders, so that at a short + distance they look like curls. For something like a month of + probation he wears these, then undergoes the rite. For ten days + thereafter he and his companions, their heads daubed with clay + and ashes, clad in long black robes, live out in the brush. They + have no provision, but are privileged to steal what they need. At + the end of the ten days they return to the manyattas. A three-day + n'goma, or dance, now completes their transformation to the + El-morani class. It finishes by an obscene night dance, in the + course of which the new warriors select their partners.</P> + + <P>For ten or twelve years these young men are El-morani. They + dwell in a separate manyatta. With them dwell promiscuously all + the young unmarried women of the tribe. There is no permanent + pairing off, no individual property, no marriage. Nor does this + constitute flagrant immorality, difficult as it may be for us to + see that fact. The institution, like all national institutions, + must have had its origin in a very real need and a very practical + expediency. The fighting strength of the tribe must be kept up, + and by the young and vigorous stock. On the other hand, every man + of military age must be foot free to serve in the constant wars + and forays. This institution is the means. And, mind you, + unchastity in the form of illicit intercourse outside the + manyatta of the El-morani, whether with her own or another tribe, + subjects the women to instant death.</P> + + <P>The El-morani in full fighting rig are imposing. They are, as + I have explained, tall and of fine physique. The cherished and + prized weapon is the long, narrow-bladed spear. This is five and + six feet long, with a blade over three feet by as many inches, + and with a long iron shoe. In fact, only a bare hand-hold of wood + is provided. It is of formidable weight, but so well balanced + that a flip cast with the wrist will drive it clear through an + enemy. A short sword and a heavy-headed war club complete the + offensive weapons. The shield is of buffalo hide, oval in shape, + and decorated with a genuine heraldry, based on genealogy. A + circlet of black ostrich feathers in some branches surrounds the + face and stands high above the head. In the southern districts + the warriors wear two single black ostrich plumes tied one either + side the head, and slanting a little backwards. They walk with a + mincing step, so that the two feathers bob gently up and down + like the waving of the circus equestrienne's filmy skirts.</P> + + <P>Naturally the Masai with the Zulu were the most dreaded of all + the tribes of Africa. They were constantly raiding in all + directions as far as their sphere of operations could reach, + capturing cattle and women as the prizes of war. Now that the + white man has put a stop to the ferocious intertribal wars, the + El-morani are out of a job. The military organization is still + carried on as before. What will happen to the morals of the + people it would be difficult to say. The twelve years of imposed + peace have not been long enough seriously to deteriorate the + people; but, inevitably, complete idleness will tell. Either the + people must change their ideals and become + industrious—which is extremely unlikely—or they will + degenerate.</P> + + <P>As a passing thought, it is a curious and formidable fact that + the prohibition of intertribal wars and forays all through East + Central Africa had already permitted the population to increase + to a point of discomfort. Many of the districts are becoming so + crowded as to overflow. What will happen in the long run only + time can tell—famines are weakening things, while war at + least hardens a nation's fibre. This is not necessarily an + argument for war. Only everywhere in the world the white man + seems, with the best of intentions, to be upsetting natural + balances without substituting anything for them. We are better at + preventing things than causing them.</P> + + <P>At the age of thirty, or thereabout, the El-morani becomes an + Elder. He may now drink and smoke, vices that in the Spartan days + of his military service were rigorously denied him. He may also + take a wife or wives, according to his means, and keep herds of + cattle. His wives he purchases from their parents, the usual + medium of payment being cows or sheep. The young women who have + been living in the El-morani village are considered quite as + desirable as the young virgins. If there are children, these are + taken over by the husband. They are considered rather a + recommendation than a detriment, for they prove the girl is + fruitful.</P> + + <P>Relieved of all responsibility, the ex-warrior now has full + leisure to be a gentleman. He drinks a fermented liquor made from + milk; he takes snuff or smokes the rank native tobacco; he + conducts interminable diplomatic negotiations; he oversees + minutely the forms of ceremonials; he helps to shape the policies + of his manyatta, and he gives his attention to the accumulation + of cows.</P> + + <P>The cow is the one thing that arouses the Masai's full + energies. He will undertake any journey, any task, any danger, + provided the reward therefor is horned cattle. And a cow is the + one thing he will on no account trade, sell, destroy. A very few + of them he milks, and a very few of them he periodically bleeds; + but the majority, to the numbers of thousands upon thousands, + live uselessly until they die of old age. They are branded, + generally on the flanks or ribs, with strange large brands, and + are so constantly handled that they are tamer and more gentle + than sheep. I have seen upwards of a thousand head in sole charge + of two old women on foot. These ancient dames drove the beasts in + a long file to water, then turned them quite easily and drove + them back again. Opposite our camp they halted their charges and + came to make us a long visit. The cattle stood in their tracks + until the call was over; not one offered even to stray off the + baked earth in search of grasses.</P> + + <P>The Masai cattle king knows his property individually. Each + beast has its name. Some of the wealthier are worth in cattle, at + settler's prices, close to a hundred thousand dollars. They are + men of importance in their own council huts, but they lack many + things dear to the savage heart simply because they are unwilling + to part with a single head of stock in order to procure them.</P> + + <P>In the old days forays and raids tended more or less to keep + the stock down. Since the White Man's Peace the herds are + increasing. In the country between the Mau Escarpment and the + Narossara Mountains we found the feed eaten down to the earth two + months before the next rainy season. In the meantime the few + settlers are hard put to it to buy cattle at any price wherewith + to stock their new farms. The situation is an anomaly which + probably cannot continue. Some check will have eventually to be + devised, either limiting the cattle, or compelling an equitable + sale of the surplus. Certainly the present situation represents a + sad economic waste—of the energies of a fine race destined + to rust away, and of the lives of tens of thousands of valuable + beasts brought into existence only to die of old age. If these + matchless herders and cattle breeders could be brought into + relation with the world's markets everybody would be the + better.</P> + + <P>Besides his sacred cattle the Masai raises also lesser herds + of the hairy sheep of the country. These he used for himself only + on the rare occasions of solitary forced marches away from his + herds, or at the times of ceremony. Their real use is as a + trading medium—for more cattle! Certain white men and + Somalis conduct regular trading expeditions into Masailand, + bringing in small herds of cows bought with trade goods from the + other tribes. These they barter with the Masai for sheep. In + Masai estimation a cow is the most valuable thing on earth, while + a sheep is only a medium of exchange. With such notions it is + easy to see that the white man can make an advantageous exchange, + in spite of the Masai's well-known shrewdness at a bargain. Each + side is satisfied. There remains only to find a market for the + sheep—an easy matter. A small herd of cows will, in the + long run, bring quite a decent profit.</P> + + <P>The Masai has very little use for white man's products. He + will trade for squares of cloth, beads of certain kinds and in a + limited quantity, brass and iron wire of heavy gauge, blankets + and sugar. That, barring occasional personal idiosyncrasy, is + about all. For these things he will pay also in sheep. Masai + curios are particularly difficult to get hold of. I rather like + them for their independence in that respect. I certainly should + refuse to sell my tennis shoes from my feet merely because some + casual Chinaman happened to admire them!</P> + + <P>The women seem to occupy a position quite satisfactory to + themselves. To be sure they do the work; but there is not much + work! They appear to be well treated; at least they are always in + good spirits, laughing and joking with each other, and always + ready with quick repartee to remarks flung at them by the safari + boys. They visited camp freely, and would sit down for a good + lively afternoon of joking. Their expressions were quizzical, + with a shy intelligent humour. In spite of the apparent unabashed + freedom of their deportment they always behaved with the utmost + circumspection; nor did our boys ever attempt any familiarity. + The unobtrusive lounging presence in the background of two + warriors with long spears may have had something to do with + this.</P> + + <P>The Masai government is centred in an overlord or king. His + orders seemed to be implicitly obeyed. The present king I do not + know, as the old king, Lenani, had just died at an advanced age. + In former days the traveller on entering Masailand was met by a + sub-chief. This man planted his long spear upright in the ground, + and the intending traveller flung over it coils of the heavy + wire. A very generous traveller who completely covered the spear + then had no more trouble. One less lavish was likely to be held + up for further impositions as he penetrated the country. This tax + was called the honga.</P> + + <P>The Masai language is one of the most difficult of all the + native tongues. In fact, the white man is almost completely + unable even to pronounce many of the words. V., who is a + "Masai-man," who knows them intimately, and who possesses their + confidence, does not pretend to talk with them in their own + tongue, but employs the universal Swahili.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XL' id="XL"></A> + + <H2>XL.</H2> + + <P>THROUGH THE ENCHANTED FOREST.</P><BR> + + <P>We delayed at V.'s boma three days, waiting for C. to turn up. + He maintained a little force of Wakamba, as the Masai would not + take service. The Wakamba are a hunting tribe, using both the + spear and the poisoned arrow to kill their game. Their bows are + short and powerful, and the arrows exceedingly well fashioned. + The poison is made from the wood of a certain fat tree, with + fruit like gigantic bologna sausages. It is cut fine, boiled, and + the product evaporated away until only a black sticky substance + remains. Into this the point of the arrow is dipped; and the head + is then protected until required by a narrow strip of buckskin + wound around and around it. I have never witnessed the effects of + this poison; but V. told me he had seen an eland die in + twenty-two minutes from so slight a wound in the shoulder that it + ran barely a hundred yards before stopping. The poison more or + less loses its efficiency, however, after the sticky, tarlike + substance has dried out.</P> + + <P>I offered a half-rupee as a prize for an archery competition, + for I was curious to get a view of their marksmanship. The + bull's-eye was a piece of typewriter paper at thirty + paces.<A name='FNanchor_27_27' id="FNanchor_27_27"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_27_27'><SUP>[27]</SUP></A> This they managed to + puncture only once out of fifteen tries, though they never missed + it very widely. V. seemed quite put out at this poor showing, so + I suppose they can ordinarily do better; but I imagine they are a + good deal like our hunting Indians—poor shots, but very + skilful at stalking close to a beast.</P> + + <P>Our missing porter, with the tent, was brought in next + afternoon by Kongoni, who had gone in search of him. The man was + a big, strong Kavirondo. He was sullen, and merely explained that + he was "tired." This excuse for a five hours' march after eight + days' rest! I fined him eight rupees, which I gave Kongoni, and + ordered him twenty-five lashes. Six weeks later he did the same + trick. C. allotted him fifty lashes, and had him led thereafter + by a short rope around the neck. He was probably addicted to + opium. This was the only man to be formally kibokoed on the whole + trip—a good testimony at once to C.'s management, the + discrimination we had used in picking them out, and the settled + reputations we had by now acquired.</P> + + <P>After C.'s return we prepared to penetrate straight back + through the great rampart of mountains to the south and west.</P> + + <P>We crossed the bush-grown plains, and entered a gently rising + long cañon flanked on either side by towering ranges that + grew higher and higher the farther we proceeded. In the very + centre of the mountains, apparently, this cañon ended in a + small round valley. There appeared to be no possible exit, save + by the way we had come, or over the almost perpendicular ridges a + thousand feet or more above. Nevertheless, we discovered a narrow + ravine that slanted up into the hills to the left. Following it + we found ourselves very shortly in a great forest on the side of + a mountain. Hanging creepers brushed our faces, tangled vines + hung across our view, strange and unexpected openings offered + themselves as a means through which we could see a little closer + into the heart of mystery. The air was cool and damp and dark. + The occasional shafts of sunlight or glimpses of blue sky served + merely to accentuate the soft gloom. Save that we climbed always, + we could not tell where we were going.</P> + + <P>The ascent occupied a little over an hour. Then through the + tree trunks and undergrowth we caught the sky-line of the crest. + When we topped this we took a breath, and prepared ourselves for + a corresponding descent. But in a hundred yards we popped out of + the forest to find ourselves on a new level. The Fourth Bench had + been attained.</P> + + <P>It was a grass country of many low, rounded hills and dipping + valleys, with fine isolated oaklike trees here and there in the + depressions, and compact, beautiful oaklike groves thrown over + the hills like blankets. Well-kept, green, trim, intimate, it + should have had church spires and gray roofs in appropriate + spots. It was a refreshment to the eye after the great and + austere spaces among which we had been dwelling, repose to the + spirit after the alert and dangerous lands. The dark-curtained + forest seemed, fancifully, an enchantment through which we had + gained to this remote smiling land, nearest of all to the blue + sky.</P> + + <P>We continued south for two days; and then, as the narrative + will show, were forced to return. We found it always the same + type; pleasant sleepy little valleys winding around and between + low hills crowned with soft groves and forests. It was for all + the world like northern Surrey, or like some of the live oak + country of California. Only this we soon discovered: in spite of + the enchantment of the magic-protecting forest, the upper benches + too were subject to the spell that lies over all Africa. These + apparently little valleys were in reality the matter of an hour's + journey to cross; these rounded hills, to all seeming only two + good golf strokes from bottom to top, were matters of serious + climbing; these compact, squared groves of oaklike trees were + actually great forests of giants in which one could lose one's + self for days, in which roamed herds of elephant and buffalo. It + looked compact because we could see all its constituent elements. + As a matter of fact, it was neat and tidy; only we were, as + usual, too small for it.</P> + + <P>At the end of two hours' fast marching we had made the + distance, say, from the clubhouse to the second hole. Then we + camped in a genuinely little grove of really small trees + overlooking a green valley bordered with wooded hills. The + prospect was indescribably delightful; a sort of Sunday-morning + landscape of groves and green grass and a feeling of church + bells.</P> + + <P>Only down the valley, diminished by distance, all afternoon + Masai warriors, in twos and threes, trooped by, mincing along so + that their own ostrich feathers would bob up and down, their + spears held aslant.</P> + + <P>We began to realize that we were indeed in a new country when + our noon thermometer registered only 66 degrees, and when at + sunrise the following morning it stood at 44 degrees. To us, + after eight months under the equator, this was bitter + weather!</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_27_27' id= + "Footnote_27_27"></A><A href='#FNanchor_27_27'>[27]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>Eight by ten and a half inches.</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XLI' id="XLI"></A> + + <H2>XLI.</H2> + + <P>NAIOKOTUKU.</P><BR> + + <P>Next morning we marched on up the beautiful valley through + shoulder-high grasses wet with dew. At the end of two hours we + came to the limit of Leyeye's knowledge of the country. It would + now be necessary to find savage guides.</P> + + <P>Accordingly, while we made camp, C., with Leyeye as + interpreter, departed in search of a Masai village. So tall and + rank grew the grass, that we had to clear it out as one would + clear brushwood in order to make room for our tents.</P> + + <P>Several hours later C. returned. He had found a very large + village; but unfortunately the savages were engaged in a big + n'goma which could not be interrupted by mere business. However, + the chief was coming to make a friendly call. When the n'goma + should be finished, he would be delighted to furnish us with + anything we might desire.</P> + + <P>Almost on the heels of this the chief arrived. He was a fine + old savage, over six feet tall, of well proportioned figure, and + with a shrewd, intelligent face. The n'goma had him to a limited + extent, for he stumbled over tent ropes, smiled a bit + uncertainly, and slumped down rather suddenly when he had meant + to sit. However, he stumbled, smiled, and slumped with + unassailable dignity.</P> + + <P>From beneath his goatskin robe he produced a long ornamented + gourd, from which he offered us a drink of fermented milk. He + took our refusal good-naturedly. The gourd must have held a + gallon, but he got away with all of its contents in the course of + the interview; also several pints of super-sweetened coffee which + we doled out to him a little at a time, and which he seemed to + appreciate extravagantly.</P> + + <P>Through Leyeye we exchanged the compliments of the day, and, + after the African custom, told each other how important we were. + Our visitor turned out to be none other than the brother of + Lenani, the paramount chief of all the Masai. I forget what I + was, either the brother of King George or the nephew of Theodore + Roosevelt—the only two white men <I>every</I> native has + heard of. It may be that both of us were mistaken, but from his + evident authority over a very wide district we were inclined to + believe our visitor.</P> + + <P>We told him we wanted guides through the hills to the + southward. He promised them in a most friendly fashion.</P> + + <P>"I do not know the white man," said he. "I live always in + these mountains. But my brother Lenani told me ten years ago that + some day the white man would come into my country. My brother + told me that when the white man came travelling in my country I + must treat him well, for the white man is a good friend but a bad + enemy. I have remembered my brother Lenani's words, though they + were spoken a long time ago. The white man has been very long in + coming; but now he is here. Therefore I have brought you milk + to-day, and to-morrow I will send you sheep; and later I will + send young men who know the hills to take you where you wish to + go."</P> + + <P>We expressed gratification, and I presented him with a Marble + fish knife. The very thin blade and the ingenious manner in which + the two halves of the handle folded forward over it pleased him + immensely.</P> + + <P>"No one but myself shall ever use this knife," said he.</P> + + <P>He had no pockets, but he tucked it away in his armpit, + clamped the muscles down over it, and apparently forgot it. At + least he gave it no further attention, used his hands as usual, + but retained it as securely as in a pocket.</P> + + <P>"To-morrow," he promised at parting, "very early in the + morning, I will send my own son and another man to guide you; and + I will send a sheep for your meat."</P> + + <P>We arose "very early," packed our few affairs, picked out four + porters—and sat down to wait. Our plan was to cruise for + five days with as light and mobile an outfit as possible, and + then to return for fresh supplies. Billy would take charge of the + main camp during our absence. As advisers, we left her Abba Ali, + Memba Sasa, and Mohammed.</P> + + <P>At noon we were still waiting. The possibility of doing a full + day's journey was gone, but we thought we might at least make a + start. At one o'clock, just as we had about given up hope, the + Masai strolled in. They were beautiful, tall, straight youths, + finely formed, with proud features and a most graceful carriage. + In colour they were as though made of copper bronze, with the + same glitter of high lights from their fine-textured skins. Even + in this chilly climate they were nearly naked. One carried a + spear, the other a bow and arrow.</P> + + <P>Joyously we uprose—and sat down again. We had provided + an excellent supply of provisions for our guides; but on looking + over the lot they discovered nothing—absolutely + nothing—that met their ideas.</P> + + <P>"What <I>do</I> they want?" we asked Leyeye in despair.</P> + + <P>"They say they will eat nothing but sheep," he reported.</P> + + <P>We remembered old Naiokotuku's promise of sending us sheep, + sneered cynically at the faith of savages, and grimly set forth + to see what we could buy in the surrounding country. But we + wronged the old man. Less than a mile from camp we met men + driving in as presents not one, but <I>two</I> sheep. So we + abandoned our shopping tour and returned to camp. By the time one + of the sheep had been made into mutton it was too late to start. + The Masai showed symptoms of desiring to go back to the village + for the night. This did not please us. We called them up, and + began extravagantly to admire their weapons, begging to examine + them. Once we had them in our hands we craftily discoursed as + follows:—</P> + + <P>"These are beautiful weapons, the most beautiful we have ever + seen. Since you are going so spend the night in our camp, and + since we greatly fear that some of our men might steal these + beautiful weapons, we will ourselves guard them for you carefully + from theft until morning."</P> + + <P>So saying, we deposited them inside the tent. Then we knew we + had our Masai safe. They would never dream of leaving while the + most cherished of their possessions were in hostage.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XLII' id="XLII"></A> + + <H2>XLII.</H2> + + <P>SCOUTING IN THE ELEPHANT FOREST.</P><BR> + + <P>Here we were finally off at dawn. It was a very chilly, wet + dawn, with the fog so thick that we could see not over ten feet + ahead. We had four porters, carrying about twenty-five pounds + apiece of the bare necessities, Kongoni, and Leyeye. The Masai + struck confidently enough through the mist. We crossed neck-deep + grass flats—where we were thoroughly soaked—climbed + hills through a forest, skirted apparently for miles an immense + reed swamp. As usual when travelling strange country in a fog, we + experienced that queer feeling of remaining in the same spot + while fragments of near-by things are slowly paraded by. When at + length the sun's power cleared the mists, we found ourselves in + the middle of a forest country of high hills.</P> + + <P>Into this forest we now plunged, threading our way here and + there where the animal trails would take us, looking always for + fresh elephant spoor. It would have been quite impossible to have + moved about in any other fashion. The timber grew on hillsides, + and was very lofty and impressive; and the tropical undergrowth + grew tall, rank, and impenetrable. We could proceed only by means + of the kind assistance of the elephant, the buffalo, and the + rhinoceros.</P> + + <P>Elephant spoor we found, but none made later than three weeks + before. The trails were broad, solid paths through the forest, as + ancient and beaten as though they had been in continuous use for + years. Unlike the rhino and buffalo trails, they gave us head + room and to spare. The great creatures had by sheer might cut + their way through the dense, tough growth, leaving twisted, + splintered, wrecked jungle behind them, but no impediment.</P> + + <P>By means of these beautiful trails we went quietly, + penetrating farther and farther into the jungle. Our little + procession of ten made no noise. If we should strike fresh + elephant tracks, thus would we hunt them, with all our worldly + goods at our backs, so that at night we could camp right on the + trail.</P> + + <P>The day passed almost without incident.</P> + + <P>Once a wild crash and a snort told of a rhinoceros, invisible, + but very close. We huddled together, our rifles ready, uncertain + whether or not the animal would burst from the leafy screen at + our very faces. The Masai stood side by side, the long spear + poised, the bow bent, fine, tense figures in bronze.</P> + + <P>Near sundown we found ourselves by a swift little stream in + the bottom of a deep ravine. Here we left the men to make camp, + and ourselves climbed a big mountain on the other side. It gave + us a look abroad over a wilderness of hills, forested heavily, + and a glimpse of the landfall far away where no white man had + ever been. This was as far south as we were destined to get, + though at the time we did not know it. Our plan was to push on + two days more. Near the top of the ridge we found the + unmistakable tracks of the bongo. This is interesting to + zoologists in that it extends the southward range of this rare + and shy beast.</P> + + <P>Just at dark we regained our camp. It was built California + fashion—for the first and last time in Africa: blankets + spread on canvas under the open sky and a gipsy fire at our feet, + over which I myself cooked our very simple meal. As we were + smoking our pipes in sleepy content, Leyeye and the two Masai + appeared for a shauri. Said the Masai,—</P> + + <P>"We have taken you over the country we know. There are + elephants there sometimes, but there are no elephants there now. + We can take you farther, and if you wish us to do so, we will do + so; but we know no more of the country than you do. But now if we + return to the manyatta to-morrow, we can march two hours to where + are some Wanderobo; and the Wanderobo know this country and will + take you through it. If it pleases you, one of us will go get the + Wanderobo, and the other will stay with you to show good + faith."</P> + + <P>We rolled our eyes at each other in humorous despair. Here at + the very beginning of the reconnaissance we had run against the + stone wall of African indirectness and procrastination. And just + as we thought we had at last settled everything!</P> + + <P>"Why," we inquired, "were not the Wanderobo sent at first, + instead of yourselves?"</P> + + <P>"Because," they replied, with truly engaging frankness, "our + chief, Naiokotuku, thought that perhaps we might find elephant + here in the country we know; and then we should get for ourselves + all the presents you would give for finding elephant. But the + elephant are not here now, so the Wanderobo will get part of the + present."</P> + + <P>That was certainly candid. After some further talk we decided + there was no help for it; we must return to camp for a new + start.</P> + + <P>At this decision the Masai brightened. They volunteered to set + off early with Leyeye, to push ahead of us rapidly, and to have + the Wanderobo in camp by the time we reached there. We concealed + somewhat cynical smiles, and agreed.</P> + + <P>The early start was made, but when we reached camp we found, + not the Wanderobo, but Leyeye and the Masai huddled over a fire. + This was exasperating, but we could not say much. After all, the + whole matter was no right of ours, but a manifestation of + friendship on the part of Naiokotuku. In the early afternoon the + sky cleared, and the ambassadors departed, promising faithfully + to be back before we slept. We spent the day writing and in + gazing at the vivid view of the hillside, the forest, and the + distant miniature prospect before us. Finally we discovered what + made it in essence so strangely familiar. In vividness and + clarity—even in the crudity of its tones—it was + exactly like a coloured photograph!</P> + + <P>Of course the savages did not return that evening, nor did we + really expect them. Just as a matter of form we packed up the + next morning, and sat down to wait. Shortly before noon Leyeye + and the Masai returned, bringing with them two of the strange, + shy, forest hunters.</P> + + <P>But by this time we had talked things over thoroughly. The + lure of the greater kudu was regaining the strength it had lost + by a long series of disappointments. We had not time left for + both a thorough investigation of the forests and a raid in the + dry hills of the west after kudu. Mavrouki said he knew of a + place where that animal ranged. So we had come to a decision.</P> + + <P>We called the Masai and Wanderobo before us. They squatted in + a row, their spears planted before them. We sat in canvas chairs. + Leyeye standing, translated. The affair was naturally of the + greatest deliberation. In the indirect African manner we began + our shauri.</P> + + <P>We asked one simple question at a time, dealing with one + simple phase of the subject. This phase we treated from several + different points of view, in order to be absolutely certain that + it was understood. To these questions we received replies in this + manner:—</P> + + <P>"Yes, the Wanderobo told us," they knew the forest; they knew + how to go about in the forest; they understood how to find their + way in the forest. They knew the elephant; they had seen the + elephant many times in the forest; they knew where the elephant + ranged in the forest—and so on through every piece of + information we desired. It is the usual and only sure way of + questioning natives.</P> + + <P>Thus we learned that the elephant range extended south through + the forests for about seven days' travel; that at this time of + year the beasts might be anywhere on that range. This confirmed + our decision. Then said we to Leyeye:—</P> + + <P>"Tell the Masai that the bwana m'kubwa is most pleased with + them, and that he is pleased with the way they have worked for + him, and that he is pleased with the presents they have brought + him. Tell them that he has no goods here with him, but that he + has sent men back to the boma of bwana Kingozi<A name= + 'FNanchor_28_28' id="FNanchor_28_28"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_28_28'><SUP>[28]</SUP></A> for blankets and wire and + cloth, and when those men return he will make a good present to + these Masai and to Naiokotuku, their chief.</P> + + <P>"Tell the Wanderobo that the bwana m'kubwa is pleased with + them, and that he thanks them for coming so far to tell him of + the elephant, and that he believes they have told him the truth. + Tell them the bwana m'kubwa will not fight the elephant now, + because he has not the time, but must go to attend to his + affairs. But later, when two years have gone, he will make + another safari, and will come back to this country, and will + again ask these men to lead him out where he can fight the + elephant. And in the meantime he will give them rupees with which + to pay their hut tax to the Government."</P> + + <P>After various compliments the sitting rose. Then we packed up + for a few hours' march. In a short time we passed the chief's + village. He came out to say good-bye. A copper bronze youth + accompanied him, lithe as a leopard.</P> + + <P>"My men have told me your words," said he. "I live always in + these mountains, and my young men will bring me word when you + return. I am glad the white men have come to see me. I shall have + the Wanderobo ready to take you to fight the elephant when you + return."</P> + + <P>He then instructed the young man to accompany us for the + purpose of bringing back the presents we had promised. We shook + hands in farewell, and so parted from this friendly and powerful + chief.</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_28_28' id= + "Footnote_28_28"></A><A href='#FNanchor_28_28'>[28]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>V.'s native name—the Master with the Red Beard.</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XLIII' id="XLIII"></A> + + <H2>XLIII.</H2> + + <P>THE TOPI CAMP.</P><BR> + + <P>At the next camp we stayed for nearly a week.</P> + + <P>The country was charming. Mountains surrounded the long + ellipse, near one edge of which we had pitched our tents. The + ellipse was some ten miles long by four or five wide, and its + surface rolled in easy billows to a narrow neck at the lower end. + There we could just make out in the far distance a conical hill + partly closing the neck. Atop the hill was a Masai manyatta, very + tiny, with indistinct crawling red and brown blotches that meant + cattle and sheep. Beyond the hill, and through the opening in the + ellipse, we could see to another new country of hills and meadows + and forest groves. In this clear air they were microscopically + distinct. No blue of atmosphere nor shimmer of heat blurred their + outlines. They were merely made small.</P> + + <P>Our camp was made in the open above a tiny stream. We saw + wonderful sunrises and sunsets, and always spread out before us + was the sweep of our plains and the unbroken ramparts that hemmed + us in. From these mountains meandered small stream-ways marked by + narrow strips of trees and brush, but the most of the valley was + of high green grass. Occasional ant hills ten feet tall rose + conical from the earth; and the country was pleasingly broken and + modelled, so that one continually surmounted knolls, low, round + ridges, and the like. Of such conditions are surprises made.</P> + + <P>The elevation here was some 7,000 feet, so that the nights + were cold and the days not too warm. Our men did not fancy this + change of weather. A good many of them came down with the fever + always latent in their systems, and others suffered from + bronchial colds.</P> + + <P>At one time we had down sick eleven men out of our slender + total. However, I believe, in spite of these surface symptoms, + that the cold air did them good. It certainly improved our own + appetites and staying power.</P> + + <P>In the thirty or forty square miles of our valley were many + herds of varied game. We here for the first time found Neuman's + hartebeeste. The type at Narossara, and even in Lengetto, was the + common Coke's hartebeeste, so that between these closely allied + species there interposes at this point only the barriers of a + climb and a forest. These animals and the zebra were the most + plentiful of the game. The zebra were brilliantly white and + black, with magnificent coats. Thompson's and Roberts' gazelles + were here in considerable numbers, eland, Roosevelt's + wildebeeste, giraffe, the smaller grass antelopes, and a fair + number of topi. In the hills we saw buffalo sign, several + cheetah, and heard many lions.</P> + + <P>It had been our first plan that C. should return immediately + to V.'s boma after supplies, but in view of the abundance of game + we decided to wait over a day. We much desired to get four topi, + and this seemed a good chance to carry some of them out. Also we + wished to decide for certain whether or not the hartebeeste here + was really of the Neuman variety.</P> + + <P>We had great luck. Over the very first hill from camp we came + upon a herd of about a dozen topi, feeding on a hill across the + way. I knocked down the first one standing at just 250 paces. The + herd then split and broke to right and left. By shooting very + carefully and steadily I managed to kill three more before they + were out of range. The last shot was at 325 paces. In all I fired + seven shots, and hit six times. This was the best shooting I did + in Africa—or anywhere else—and is a first-rate + argument for the Springfield and the high velocity, sharp-pointed + bullet.</P> + + <P>Overjoyed at our luck in collecting these animals so promptly, + so near camp, and at a time so very propitious for handling the + trophies, we set to the job of skinning and cutting up. The + able-bodied men all came out from camp to carry in the meat. They + appeared, grinning broadly, for they had had no meat since + leaving the Narossara. C. and I saw matters well under way, and + then went on to where I had seen a cheetah the day before. Hardly + were we out of sight when two lions sauntered over the hill and + proceeded to appropriate the meat! The two men in charge promptly + withdrew. A moment later a dozen porters on their way out from + camp topped the hill and began to yell at the lions. The latter + then slowly and reluctantly retreated.</P> + + <P>We were very sorry we had not stayed. The valley seemed + populated with lions, but in general they were, for some reason, + strictly nocturnal. By day they inhabited the fastnesses of the + mountain ranges. We never succeeded in tracing them in that large + and labyrinthine country; nor at any time could we induce them to + come to kills. Either their natural prey was so abundant that + they did not fancy ready-killed food; or, what is more likely, + the cold nights prevented the odour of the carcasses from + carrying far. We heard lions every night; and every morning we + conscientiously turned out before daybreak to crawl up to our + bait through the wet, cold grass, but with no results. That very + night we were jerked from a sound sleep by a tremendous roar + almost in camp. So close was it that it seemed to each of us but + just outside the tent. We came up all standing. The lion, + apparently, was content with that practical joke, for he moved + off quietly. Next morning we found where the tracks had led down + to water, not ten yards away.</P> + + <P>We spent the rest of that day spying on the game herds. It is + fascinating work, to lie belly down on a tall ant hill, glasses + steadied by elbows, picking out the individual animals and + discussing them low-voiced with a good companion. C. and I looked + over several hundred hartebeeste, trying to decide their + identity. We were neither of us familiar with the animal, and had + only recollections of the book distinctions. Finally I picked out + one that seemed to present the most marked + characteristics—and missed him clean at 280 yards. Then I + took three shots at 180 yards to down a second choice. The poor + shooting was forgotten, however, in our determination that this + was indeed Neumanii.</P> + + <P>A vain hunt for lions occupied all the next day. The third + morning C. started for the boma, leaving Billy and me to look + about us as we willed. Shortly after he had departed a delegation + of Masai came in, dressed in their best, and bearing presents of + milk. Leyeye was summoned as interpreter.</P> + + <P>The Masai informed us that last night a lion had leapt the + thorn walls of their boma, had pressed on through the fires, had + seized a two-year-old steer, and had dragged the beast outside. + Then the pursuit with spears and firebrands had become too hot + for him, so that he had dropped his victim and retired. They + desired (<I>a</I>) medicine for the steer, (<I>b</I>) magic to + keep that lion away, (<I>c</I>) that I should assist them in + hunting the lion down.</P> + + <P>I questioned them closely, and soon discovered both that the + lion must have been very bold, and also that he had received a + pretty lively reception. Magic to keep him away seemed like a + safe enough proposition, for the chances were he would keep + himself away.</P> + + <P>Therefore I filled a quart measure with clear water, passed my + hand across its untroubled surface—and lo! it turned a + clear bright pink!</P> + + <P>Long-drawn exclamations of "Eigh! Eigh!" greeted this magic, + performed by means of permanganate crystals held between the + fingers.</P> + + <P>"With this bathe the wounds of your steer. Then sprinkle the + remainder over your cattle. The lion will not return," said I. + Then reflecting that I was to be some time in the country, and + that the lion might get over his scare, I added, "The power of + this magic is three days."</P> + + <P>They departed very much impressed. A little later Memba Sasa + and I followed them. The manyatta was most picturesquely placed + atop the conical hill at the foot of the valley. From its + elevation we could see here and there in the distance the + variegated blotches of red and white and black that represented + the cattle herds. Innumerable flocks of sheep and goats, under + charge of the small boys and youths, fed nearer at hand. The low + smooth-plastered huts, with their abattis of thorn bush between, + crowned the peak like a chaplet. Outside it sat a number of + elders sunning themselves, and several smiling, good-natured + young women, probably the spoiled darlings of these plutocrats. + One of these damsels spake Swahili, so we managed to exchange + compliments. They told us exactly when and how the lion had gone. + Three nimble old gentlemen accompanied us when we left. They were + armed with spears; and they displayed the most extraordinary + activity, skipping here and there across the ravines and through + the brush, casting huge stones into likely cover, and generally + making themselves ubiquitous. However, we did not come up with + the lion.</P> + + <P>In our clinic that evening appeared one of the men claiming to + suffer from rheumatism. I suspected him, and still suspect him, + of malingering in advance in order to get out of the hard work we + must soon undertake, but had no means of proving my suspicion. + However, I decided to administer asperin. We possessed only the + powdered form of the drug. I dumped about five grains on his + tongue, and was about to proffer him the water with which to wash + it down—when he inhaled sharply! I do not know the precise + effect of asperin in the windpipe, but it is not pleasant. The + boy thought himself bewitched. His eyes stuck out of his head; he + gasped painfully; he sank to the ground; he made desperate + efforts to bolt out into the brush. By main strength we + restrained him, and forced him to swallow the water. Little by + little he recovered. Next night I missed him from the clinic, and + sent Abba Ali in search. The man assured Abba Ali most vehemently + that the medicine was wonderful, that every trace of rheumatism + had departed, that he never felt better in his life, and that + (important point) he was perfectly able to carry a load on the + morrow.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XLIV' id="XLIV"></A> + + <H2>XLIV.</H2> + + <P>THE UNKNOWN LAND.</P><BR> + + <P>C. returned the next day from V.'s boma, bringing more potio + and some trade goods. We sent a good present back to Naiokotuku, + and prepared for an early start into the new country.</P> + + <P>We marched out of the lower end of our elliptical valley + towards the miniature landscape we had seen through the opening. + But before we reached it we climbed sharp to the right around the + end of the mountains, made our way through a low pass, and so + found ourselves in a new country entirely. The smooth, undulating + green-grass plains were now superseded by lava expanses grown + with low bushes. It was almost exactly like the sage-brush + deserts of Arizona and New Mexico—the same coarse sand and + lava footing, the same deeply eroded barrancas, the same + scattered round bushes dotted evenly over the scene. We saw here + very little game. Across the way lay another range of low + mountains clothed darkly with dull green, like the + chaparral-covered coast ranges of California. In one place was a + gunsight pass through which we could see other distant blue + mountains. We crossed the arid plain and toiled up through the + notch pass.</P> + + <P>The latter made very difficult footing indeed, for the entire + surface of the ground was covered with smooth, slippery boulders + and rocks of iron and quartz. What had so smoothed them I do not + know, for they seemed to be ill-placed for water erosion. The + boys with their packs atop found this hard going, and we + ourselves slipped and slid and bumped in spite of our + caution.</P> + + <P>Once through the pass we found ourselves overlooking a wide + prospect of undulating thorn scrub from which rose occasional + bushy hills, solitary buttes, and bold cliffs. It was a + thick-looking country to make a way through.</P> + + <P>Nevertheless somewhere here dwelt the Kudu, so in we plunged. + The rest of the day—and of days to follow—we spent in + picking a way through the thorn scrub and over loose rocks and + shifting stones. A stream bed contained an occasional water hole. + Tall aloes were ablaze with red flowers. The country looked arid, + the air felt dry, the atmosphere was so clear that a day's + journey seemed—usually—but the matter of a few hours. + Only rarely did we enjoy a few moments of open travel. Most of + the time the thorns caught at us. In the mountain passes were + sometimes broad trails of game or of the Masai cattle. The + country was harsh and dry and beautiful with the grays and dull + greens of arid-land brush, or with the soft atmospheric tints of + arid-land distances. Game was fairly common, but rather difficult + to find. There were many buffalo, a very few zebra, leopards, + hyenas, plenty of impalla, some sing-sing, a few eland, abundant + wart-hog, Thompson's gazelle, and duiker. We never lacked for + meat when we dared shoot it, but we were after nobler game. The + sheep given us by Naiokotuku followed along under charge of the + syces.</P> + + <P>When we should run quite out of meat, we intended to eat them. + We delayed too long, however. One evening the fool boy tied them + to a thorn bush; one of them pulled back, the thorns bit, and + both broke loose and departed into the darkness. Of course + everybody pursued, but we could not recapture them. Ten minutes + later the hyenas broke into the most unholy laughter. We could + not blame them; the joke was certainly on us.</P> + + <P>In passing, the cachinnations of the laughing hyena are rather + a series of high-voiced self-conscious titters than laughter. + They sound like the stage idea of a lot of silly and rather + embarrassed old maids who have been accused by some rude man of + "taking notice." This call is rarely used; indeed, I never heard + it but the once. The usual note is a sort of moaning howl, + impossible to describe, but easy to recognize.</P> + + <P>Thus we penetrated gradually deeper and deeper into this wild + country; through low mountains, over bush-clad plains, into thorn + jungles, down wide valleys, over hill-divided plateaus. Late in + the afternoon we would make camp. Sometimes we had good water; + more often not. In the evening the throb of distant drums and + snatches of intermittent wailing song rose and fell with the + little night breezes.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XLV' id="XLV"></A> + + <H2>XLV.</H2> + + <P>THE ROAN.</P><BR> + + <P>Our last camp, before turning back, we pitched about two + o'clock one afternoon. Up to this time we had marched steadily + down wide valleys, around the end of mountain ranges, moving from + one room to the other of this hill-divided plateau. At last we + ended on a slope that descended gently to water. It was grown + sparingly with thorn trees, among which we raised our tents. Over + against us, and across several low swells of grass and + scrub-grown hills, was a range of mountains. Here, Mavrouki + claimed, dwelt roan antelope.</P> + + <P>We settled down quite happily. The country round about was + full of game; the weather was cool, the wide sweeps of country, + the upward fling of mountains and buttes were much like some + parts of our great West. Almost every evening the thunderstorms + made gorgeous piled effects in the distance. At night the lions + and hyenas roared or howled, and some of the tiny fever owls + impudently answered them back.</P> + + <P>Various adventures came our way, some of which have been + elsewhere narrated. Here we killed the very big buffalo that + nearly got Billy.<A name='FNanchor_29_29' id= + "FNanchor_29_29"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_29_29'><SUP>[29]</SUP></A> In addition, we collected + two more specimens of the Neuman's hartebeeste, and two Chanler's + reed buck.</P> + + <P>But Mavrouki's glowing predictions as to roan were hardly + borne out by facts. According to him the mountains simply swarmed + with them—he had seen thirty-five in one day, etc. Of + course we had discounted this, but some old tracks had to a + certain extent borne out his statement.</P> + + <P>Lunch time one day, however, found us on top of the highest + ridge. Here we hunted up a bit of shade, and spent two hours out + of the noon sun. While we lay there the sky slowly overcast, so + that when we aroused ourselves to go on, the dazzling light had + softened. As time was getting short, we decided to separate. + Memba Sasa and Mavrouki were to go in one direction, while C., + Kongoni and I took the other.</P> + + <P>Before we started I remarked that I was offering two rupees + for the capture of a roan.</P> + + <P>We had not gone ten minutes when Kongoni turned his head + cautiously and grinned back at us.</P> + + <P>"My rupees," said he.</P> + + <P>A fine buck roan stood motionless beneath a tree in the valley + below us. He was on the other side of the stream jungle, and + nearly a mile away. While we watched him, he lay down.</P> + + <P>Our task now was to gain the shelter of the stream jungle + below without being seen, to slip along it until opposite the + roan, and then to penetrate the jungle near enough to get a shot. + The first part of this contract seemed to us the most difficult, + for we were forced to descend the face of the hill, like flies + crawling down a blackboard, plain for him to see.</P> + + <P>We slid cautiously from bush to bush; we moved by + imperceptible inches across the numerous open spaces. About + half-way down we were arrested by a violent snort ahead. Fifteen + or twenty zebras nooning in the brush where no zebras were + supposed to be, clattered down the hill like an avalanche. We + froze where we were. The beasts ran fifty yards, then wheeled, + and started back up the hill, trying to make us out. For twenty + minutes all parties to the transaction remained stock still, the + zebras staring, we hoping fervently they would decide to go down + the valley and not up it, the roan dozing under his distant + tree.</P> + + <P>By luck our hopes were fulfilled. The zebra turned downstream, + walking sedately away in single file. When we were certain they + had all quite gone, we resumed our painful descent.</P> + + <P>At length we dropped below the screen of trees, and could + stand upright and straighten the kinks out of our backs. But now + a new complication arose. The wind, which had been the very basis + of our calculations, commenced to chop and veer. Here it blew + from one quarter, up there on the side hill from another, and + through the bushes in quite another direction still. Then without + warning they would all shift about. We watched the tops of the + grasses through our binoculars, hoping to read some logic into + the condition. It was now four o'clock—our stalk had thus + far consumed two hours—and the roan must soon begin to + feed. If we were going to do anything, we must do it soon.</P> + + <P>Therefore we crept through a very spiky, noisy jungle to its + other edge, sneaked along the edge until we could make out the + tree, and raised ourselves for a look. Through the glass I could + just make out the roan's face stripe. He was still there!</P> + + <P>Quite encouraged, I instantly dropped down and crawled to + within range. When again I raised my head the roan had + disappeared. One of these aggravating little side puffs of breeze + had destroyed our two hours' work.</P> + + <P>The outlook was not particularly encouraging. We had no means + of telling how far the animal would go, nor into what sort of + country; and the hour was well advanced toward sunset. However, + we took up the track, and proceeded to follow it as well as we + could. That was not easy, for the ground was hard and stony. + Suddenly C. threw himself flat. Of course we followed his + example. To us he whispered that he thought he had caught a + glimpse of the animal through an opening and across the stream + bed. We stalked carefully, and found ourselves in the middle of a + small herd of topis, one of which, half concealed in the brush, + had deceived C. This consumed valuable time. When again we had + picked up the spoor, it was agreed that I was to still-hunt ahead + as rapidly as I could, while C. and Kongoni would puzzle out the + tracks as far as possible before dark.</P> + + <P>Therefore I climbed the little rocky ridge on our left, and + walked along near its crest, keeping a sharp lookout over the + valley below—much as one would hunt August bucks in + California. After two or three hundred yards I chanced on a short + strip of soft earth in which the fresh tracks of the roan going + uphill were clearly imprinted. I could not without making too + much noise inform the others that I had cut in ahead of them; so + I followed the tracks as cautiously and quietly as I could. On + the very top of the hill the roan leapt from cover fifty yards + away, and with a clatter of rocks dashed off down the ridge. The + grass was very high, and I could see only his head and horns, but + I dropped the front sight six inches and let drive at a guess. + The guess happened to be a good one, for he turned a somersault + seventy-two yards away.</P> + + <P>C. and Kongoni came up. The sun had just set. In fifteen + minutes it would be pitch dark. We dispatched Kongoni for help + and lanterns, and turned to on the job of building a signal fire + and skinning the trophy.</P> + + <P>The reason for our strangely chopping wind now became + apparent. From our elevation we could see piled thunder-clouds + looming up from the west. They were spreading upward and outward + in the swift, rushing manner of tropic storms; and I saw I must + hustle if I was to get my fire going at all. The first little + blaze was easy, and after that I had to pile on quantities of any + wood I could lay my hands to. The deluge blotted out every + vestige of daylight and nearly drowned out my fire. I had started + to help C. with the roan, but soon found that I had my own job + cut out for me, and so went back to nursing my blaze. The water + descended in sheets. We were immediately soaked through, and very + cold. The surface of the ground was steep and covered with loose + round rocks, and in my continuous trips for firewood I stumbled + and slipped and ran into thorns miserably.<A name= + 'FNanchor_30_30' id="FNanchor_30_30"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_30_30'><SUP>[30]</SUP></A></P> + + <P>After a long interval of this the lanterns came bobbing + through the darkness, and a few moments later the dim light + revealed the shining rain-soaked faces of our men.</P> + + <P>We wasted no time in the distribution of burdens. C. with one + of the lanterns brought up the rear, while I with the other went + on ahead.</P> + + <P>Now as Kongoni had but this minute completed the round trip to + camp, we concluded that he would be the best one to give us a + lead. This was a mistake. He took us out of the hills well + enough, and a good job that was, for we could not see the length + of our arms into the thick, rainy blackness, and we had to go + entirely by the slants of the country. But once in the more open, + sloping country, with its innumerable bushy or wooded ravines, he + began to stray. I felt this from the first; but Kongoni insisted + strongly he was right, and in the rain and darkness we had no way + of proving him wrong. In fact I had no reason for thinking him + wrong; I only felt it. This sense of direction is apparently a + fifth wheel or extra adjustment some people happen to possess. It + has nothing to do with acquired knowledge, as is very well proved + by the fact that in my own case it acts only as long as I do not + think about it. As soon as I begin consciously to consider the + matter I am likely to go wrong. Thus many, many times I have + back-tracked in the dark over ground I had traversed but once + before, and have caught myself turning out for bushes or trees I + could not see, but which my subconscious memory recalled. This + would happen only when I would think of something besides the way + home. As soon as I took charge, I groped as badly as the next + man. It is a curious and sometimes valuable extra, but by no + means to be depended upon.</P> + + <P>Now, however, as I was following Kongoni, this faculty had + full play, and it assured me vehemently that we were wrong. I + called C. up from the rear for consultation. Kongoni was very + positive he was right; but as we had now been walking over an + hour, and camp should not have been more than three miles from + where we had killed the roan, we were inclined towards my + instinct. So we took the compass direction, in order to assure + consistency at least, and struck off at full right angles to the + left.</P> + + <P>So we tramped for a long time. Every few moments Kongoni would + want another look at that compass. It happened that we were now + going due north, and his notion was that the needle pointed the + way to camp. We profoundly hoped that his faith in white man's + magic would not be shattered. At the end of an hour the rain let + up, and it cleared sufficiently to disclose some of the mountain + outlines. They convinced us that we were in the main right; + though just where, to the north, camp now lay was beyond our + power to determine. Kongoni's detour had been rather + indeterminate in direction and distance.</P> + + <P>The country now became very rough, in a small way. The feeble + light of our leading lantern revealed only ghosts and phantoms + and looming, warning suggestions of things which the shadows + confused and shifted. Heavily laden men would have found it + difficult travelling by prosaic daylight; but now, with the added + impossibility of picking a route ahead, we found ourselves in all + sorts of trouble. Many times we had to back out and try again. + The ghostly flickering tree shapes against the fathomless black + offered us apparently endless aisles that nevertheless closed + before us like the doors of a trap when we attempted to enter + them.</P> + + <P>We kept doggedly to the same general northerly direction. When + you are lost, nothing is more foolish than to make up your mind + hastily and without due reflection; and nothing is more foolish + than to change your mind once you have made it up. That way + vacillation, confusion, and disaster lie. Should you decide, + after due consideration of all the elements of the problem, that + you should go east, then east you go, and nothing must turn you. + You may get to the Atlantic Ocean if nothing else. And if you + begin to modify your original plan, then you begin to circle. + Believe me; I know.</P> + + <P>Kongoni was plainly sceptical, and said so until I shut him up + with some rather peremptory sarcasm. The bearers, who had to + stumble in the dark under heavy burdens, were good-natured and + joking. This we appreciated. One can never tell whether or not he + is popular with a native until he and the native are caught in a + dangerous or disagreeable fix.</P> + + <P>We walked two hours as in a treadmill. Then that invaluable + though erratic sixth sense of mine awoke. I stopped short.</P> + + <P>"I believe we've come far enough," I shouted back to C., and + fired my rifle.</P> + + <P>We received an almost immediate answer from a short distance + to the left. Not over two hundred yards in that direction we met + our camp men bearing torches, and so were escorted in triumph + after a sixteen-hour day.</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_29_29' id= + "Footnote_29_29"></A><A href='#FNanchor_29_29'>[29]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>"The Land of Footprints."</P> + </DIV><A name='Footnote_30_30' id="Footnote_30_30"></A><A href= + '#FNanchor_30_30'>[30]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>Six months after I had reached home, one of these thorns + worked its way out of the calf of my leg.</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XLVI' id="XLVI"></A> + + <H2>XLVI.</H2> + + <P>THE GREATER KUDU.</P><BR> + + <P>Next morning, in a joking manner, I tried to impress Kongoni + with a sense of delinquency in not knowing better his directions, + especially as he had twice traversed the route. He declined to be + impressed.</P> + + <P>"It is not the business of man to walk at night," he replied + with dignity.</P> + + <P>And when you stop to think of it, it certainly is not—in + Africa.</P> + + <P>At this camp we lingered several days. The great prize of our + journeying was still lacking, and, to tell the truth, we had + about given up hope, if not our efforts. Almost we had begun to + believe our friends in Nairobi who had scoffed at the uselessness + of our quest. Always we conscientiously looked over good kudu + country, hundreds of miles of it, and always with the same lack + of result, or even of encouragement. Other game we saw in plenty, + of a dozen different varieties, large and small; but our five + weeks' search had thus far yielded us only the sight of the same + old, old sign, made many months before. If you had stood with us + atop one of the mountains, and with us had looked abroad on the + countless leagues of rolling brush-clothed land, undulating away + in all directions over a far horizon, you must with us have + estimated as very slight the chances of happening on the exact + pin point where the kudu at that moment happened to be feeding. + For the beast is shy, it inhabits the densest, closest mountain + cover, it possesses the keen eyesight and sense of smell of the + bush-dwelling deer and antelope, and more than the average sense + of hearing. There are very few of him. But the chief + discouragement is that arising from his roaming tendencies. Other + rare animals are apt to "use" about one locality, so that once + the hunter finds tracks, new or old, his game is one of patient, + skilful search. The greater kudu, however, seems in this country + at least to be a wanderer. He is here to-day and gone to-morrow. + Systematic search seems as foolish as in the case of the + proverbial needle in the haystack. The only method is to sift + constantly, and trust to luck. One cannot catch fish with the fly + in the book, but one has at least a chance if one keeps it on the + water.</P> + + <P>Mavrouki was the only one among us who had the living faith + that comes from having seen the animal in the flesh. That is a + curious bit of hunter psychology. When a man is out after a + species new to him, it is only by the utmost stretch of the + imagination that he is able to realize that such an animal can + exist at all. He cannot prefigure it, somehow. He generally + exaggerates to himself the difficulty of making it out, of + approaching it, of getting his shot; until at last, if he happens + to have hunted some time in vain, the beast becomes almost + mythical and unbelievable. Once he has seen the animal, whether + he gets a shot or not, all this vanishes. The strain on faith + relaxes. He knows what to look for, and what to expect; and even + if he sees no other specimen for a month, he nevertheless goes + about the business with a certain confidence.</P> + + <P>One afternoon we had been hunting carefully certain low + mountains, and were headed for camp, walking rather carelessly + along the bed of a narrow, open valley below the bush-covered + side hills. The sun had disappeared behind the ranges, and the + dusk of evening was just beginning to rise like a mist from the + deeps of the cañons. We had ceased hunting—it was + time to hurry home—and happened not to be talking only + because we were tired. By sheerest idle luck I chanced to look up + to the densely covered face of the mountain. Across a single tiny + opening in the tall brush five or six hundred yards away, I + caught a movement. Still idly I lifted my glasses for a look at + what I thought would prove the usual impalla or sing-sing, and + was just in time to catch the spirals of a magnificent set of + horns. It was the greater kudu at last!</P> + + <P>I gave a little cluck of caution; and instantly, without + question, after the African fashion, the three men ahead of me + sank to the ground. C. looked at me inquiringly. I motioned with + my eyes. He raised his glasses for one look.</P> + + <P>"That's the fellow," he said quietly.</P> + + <P>The kudu, as though he had merely stepped into the opening to + give us a sight of him, melted into the brush.</P> + + <P>It was magnificent and exciting to have seen this wonderful + beast after so long a quest, but by the same token it was not + very encouraging for all that. If we had had all the daylight we + needed, and unlimited time, it would have been quite a feat to + stalk the wary beast in that thick, noisy cover. Now it was + almost dark, and would be quite dark within the half-hour. The + kudu had moved out of sight. Whether he had gone on some + distance, or whether he still lingered near the edge of the tiny + opening was another matter to be determined, and to be determined + quickly.</P> + + <P>Leaving Kongoni and Mavrouki, C. and I wriggled pantingly up + the hill, as fast and at the same time as cautiously as we could. + At the edge of the opening we came to a halt, belly down, and + began eagerly to scrutinize the brush across the way. If the kudu + still lingered we had to find it out before we ventured out of + cover to take up his trail. Inch by inch we scrutinized every + possible concealment. Finally C. breathed sharp with + satisfaction. He had caught sight of the tip of one horn. With + some difficulty he indicated to me where. After staring long + enough, we could dimly make out the kudu himself browsing, from + the tender branch-ends.</P> + + <P>All we could do was to lie low. If the kudu fed on out of + sight into the cover, we could not possibly get a shot; if he + should happen again to cross the opening, we would get a good + shot. No one but a hunter can understand the panting, dry-mouthed + excitement of those minutes; five weeks' hard work hung in the + balance. The kudu did neither of these things; he ceased + browsing, took three steps forward, and stood.</P> + + <P>The game seemed blocked. The kudu had evidently settled down + for a snooze; it was impossible, in the situation, to shorten the + distance without being discovered; the daylight was almost gone; + we could make out no trace of him except through our glasses. + Look as hard as we could, we could see nothing with the naked + eye. Unless something happened within the next two minutes, we + would bring nothing into camp but the memory of a magnificent + beast. And next day he would probably be inextricably lost in the + wilderness of mountains.<A name='FNanchor_31_31' id= + "FNanchor_31_31"></A><A href= + '#Footnote_31_31'><SUP>[31]</SUP></A></P> + + <P>It was a time for desperate measures, and, to C.'s evident + doubtful anxiety, I took them. Through the glasses the mane of + the kudu showed as a dim gray streak. Carefully I picked out two + twigs on a bush fifteen feet from me, and a tuft of grass ten + yards on, all of which were in line with where the shoulder of + the kudu ought to be. Then I lowered my glasses. The gray streak + of the kudu's mane had disappeared in the blending twilight, but + I could still see the tips of the twigs and the tuft of grass. + Very carefully I aligned the sights with these; and, with a + silent prayer to the Red Gods, loosed the bullet into the + darkness.</P> + + <P>At the crack of the rifle the kudu leapt into plain sight.</P> + + <P>"Hit!" rasped C. in great excitement.</P> + + <P>I did not wait to verify this, but fired four times more as + fast as I could work the bolt. Three of the bullets told. At the + last shot he crumpled and came rolling down the slope. We both + raised a wild whoop of triumph, which was answered at once by the + expectant gunbearers below.</P> + + <P>The finest trophy in Africa was ours!</P> + + <P>FOOTNOTES:</P><A name='Footnote_31_31' id= + "Footnote_31_31"></A><A href='#FNanchor_31_31'>[31]</A> + + <DIV class='note'> + <P>Trailing for any distance was impossible on account of the + stony soil.</P> + </DIV> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XLVII' id="XLVII"></A> + + <H2>XLVII.</H2> + + <P>THE MAGIC PORTALS CLOSE.</P><BR> + + <P>It seemed hopeless to try for a picture. Nevertheless I opened + wide my lens, steadied the camera, and gave it a half-second. The + result was fairly good. So much for a high grade lens. We sent + Kongoni into camp for help, and ourselves proceeded to build up + the usual fire for signal and for protection against wild beasts. + Then we sat down to enjoy the evening, while Mavrouki skinned the + kudu.</P> + + <P>We looked abroad over a wide stretch of country. Successive + low ridges crossed our front, each of a different shade of slate + gray from its neighbours, and a gray half-luminous mist filled + the valley between them. The edge of the world was thrown sharp + against burnished copper. After a time the moon rose.</P> + + <P>Memba Sasa arrived before the lanterns, out of breath, his + face streaming with perspiration. Poor Memba Sasa! this was + almost the only day he had not followed close at my heels, and on + this day we had captured the Great Prize. No thought of that + seemed to affect the heartiness of his joy. He rushed up to shake + both my hands; he examined the kudu with an attention that was + held only by great restraint; he let go that restrain to shake me + again enthusiastically by the hands. After him, up the hill, + bobbed slowly the lanterns. The smiling bearers shouldered the + trophy and the meat, and we stumbled home through the half + shadows and the opalescences of the moonlight.</P> + + <P>Our task in this part of the country was now finished. We set + out on the return journey. The weather changed. A beautiful, + bright-copper sunset was followed by a drizzle. By morning this + had turned into a heavy rain. We left the topi camp, to which we + had by now returned, cold and miserable. C. and I had contributed + our waterproofs to protect the precious trophies, and we were + speedily wet through. The grass was long. This was no warm and + grateful tropical rain, but a driving, chilling storm straight + out from the high mountains.</P> + + <P>We marched up the long plain, we turned to the left around the + base of the ranges, we mounted the narrow grass valley, we + entered the forest—the dark, dripping, and unfriendly + forest. Over the edge we dropped and clambered down through the + hanging vines and the sombre trees. By-and-by, we emerged on the + open plains below, the plains on the hither side of the + Narossara, the Africa we had known so long. The rain ceased. It + was almost as though a magic portal had clicked after us. Behind + it lay the wonderful secret upper country of the unknown.</P> + <HR style='width: 65%;'> + <A name='XLVIII' id="XLVIII"></A> + + <H2>XLVIII.</H2> + + <P>THE LAST TREK.</P><BR> + + <P>Some weeks later we camped high on the slopes of Suswa, the + great mountain of the Rift Valley, only one day's march from the + railroad. After the capture of the kudu Africa still held for us + various adventures—a buffalo, a go of fever, and the + like—but the culmination had been reached. We had lingered + until the latest moment, reluctant to go. Now in the gray dawn we + were filing down the slopes of the mountains for the last trek. A + low, flowing mist marked the distant Kedong; the flames of an + African sunrise were revelling in the eastern skies. All our old + friends seemed to be bidding us good-bye. Around the shoulder of + the mountains a lion roared, rumble upon rumble. Two hyenas leapt + from the grass, ran fifty yards, and turned to look at us.</P> + + <P>"Good-bye, simba! good-bye, fice!" we cried to them sadly.</P> + + <P>A little farther we saw zebra, and the hartebeeste, and the + gazelles. One by one appeared and disappeared again the beasts + with which we had grown so familiar during our long months in the + jungle. So remarkable was the number of species that we both + began to comment upon the fact, to greet the animals, to bid them + farewell, as though they were reporting in order from the jungle + to bid us God-speed. Half in earnest we waved our hands to them + and shouted our greetings to them in the native—punda + milia, kongoni, pa-a, fice, m'pofu, twiga, simba, n'grooui, and + the rest. Before our eyes the misty ranges hardened and stiffened + under the fierce sun. Our men marched steadily, cheerfully, + beating their loads in rhythm with their safari sticks, crooning + under their breaths, and occasionally breaking into full-voiced + chant. They were glad to be back from the long safari, back from + across the Thirst, from the high, cold country, from the dangers + and discomforts of the unknown. We rode a little wistfully, for + these great plains and mysterious jungles, these populous, + dangerous, many-voiced nights, these flaming, splendid dawnings + and day-falls, these fierce, shimmering noons we were to know no + more.</P> + + <P>Two days we had in Nairobi before going to the coast. There we + paid off and dismissed our men, giving them presents according to + the length and faithfulness of their service. They took them and + departed, eagerly, as was natural, to the families and the + pleasures from which they had been so long separated. Mohammed + said good-bye, and went, and was sorry; Kongoni departed, after + many and sincere protestations; quiet little Mavrouki came back + three times to shake hands again, and disappeared + reluctantly—but disappeared; Leyeye went; Abba Ali followed + the service of his master, C.; "Timothy" received his + present—in which he was disappointed—and departed + with salaams. Only Memba Sasa remained. I paid him for his long + service, and I gave him many and rich presents, and bade farewell + to him with genuine regret and affection.</P> + + <P>Memba Sasa had wives and a farm near town, neither of which + possessions he had seen for a very long while. Nevertheless he + made no move to see them. When our final interview had terminated + with the usual "Bags" (It is finished), he shook hands once more + and withdrew, but only to take his position across the street. + There he squatted on his heels, fixed his eyes upon me, and + remained. I went down town on business. Happening to glance + through the office window I caught sight of Memba Sasa again + across the street, squatted on his heels, his gaze fixed + unwaveringly on my face. So it was for two days. When I tried to + approach him, he glided away, so that I got no further speech + with him; but always, quietly and unobtrusively, he returned to + where he could see me plainly. He considered that our interview + had terminated our official relations, but he wanted to see the + last of the bwana with whom he had journeyed so far.</P> + + <P>One makes many acquaintances as one knocks about the world; + and once in a great many moons one finds a friend—a man the + mere fact of whose existence one is glad to realize, whether one + ever sees him again or not. These are not many, and they are of + various degree. Among them I am glad to number this fierce + savage. He was efficient, self-respecting, brave, staunch, and + loyal with a great loyalty. I do not think I can better end this + book than by this feeble tribute to a man whose opportunities + were not many, but whose soul was great.</P><BR> + + <P>THE END</P> + + <H3>BOOKS BY STEWART EDWARD WHITE.</H3> + + <P><SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>"<I>Mr. Stewart Edward White + is a Thomas Hardy, so to</I></SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'><I>speak, of the primeval + forests of the Far West, and of the</I></SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'><I>great rivers that run out of + them over the brink of evening.</I></SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'><I>His large, still novels will + live on as a kind of social</I></SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>history."—<I>The Morning + Post</I>.</SPAN><BR> + <BR> + <BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>THE LAND OF FOOTPRINTS + 2s. net.</SPAN><BR> + <BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>"The best book of travel in + Africa that has been published for</SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>many years."—<I>The + Nottingham Daily Express</I>.</SPAN><BR> + <BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>"It is more than a thrilling + story of adventure, for Mr. White</SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>shows that he is a man of broad + sympathies and understanding, and</SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>can not only deal successfully + with primitive tribes, but really knows</SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style= + 'margin-left: 2.5em;'>them."—<I>Punch</I>.</SPAN><BR> + <BR> + <BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>THE CABIN + 2s. net.</SPAN><BR> + <BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>"'The Cabin' is a pure delight. + We read of a husband and wife</SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>camping out in a little shanty + in the heart of a Californian</SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>forest—that is all the + story; but around it grows chapter after</SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>chapter of + sagacity and fun and insight, and a deep joy in</SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>beauty and living things. And + all is given to us as simply and</SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>sincerely as it was lived + through and thought through."</SPAN><BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>—<I>The + Nation</I>.</SPAN><BR> + <BR> + <BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>THE FOREST + 1s. net.</SPAN><BR> + <BR> + <BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>RULES OF THE GAME + 7d. net.</SPAN><BR> + <BR> + <BR> + <SPAN style='margin-left: 2.5em;'>THE BLAZED TRAIL + 7d. net.</SPAN><BR></P> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14451 ***</div> +</BODY> +</HTML> diff --git a/14451-h/images/frontispiece.jpg b/14451-h/images/frontispiece.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d14b2c6 --- /dev/null +++ b/14451-h/images/frontispiece.jpg |
