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<body>
<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14293 ***</div>

    <h2><!-- Page 1 --><a id="Page_1"></a> <!-- Contents moved to page 3 -->
     <!-- Page 2 --><a id="Page_2"></a> BOB BROWN</h2>

    <h1>The Complete Book<br >
     of Cheese</h1>

    <p><i>Illustrations by</i> Eric Blegvad</p>

    <div class="figcenter">
        <img src="images/002.gif" alt="Illustration: cheese store" style="width: 450px; height: 314px">
    </div>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div class="rightalign">
        <i>Gramercy Publishing Company</i><br >
        <br >
         <i>New York</i><br >
         1955
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 3 --><a id="Page_3"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><i>Author of</i><br >
    <br >
     THE WINE COOK BOOK<br >
    <br >
     AMERICA COOKS<br >
    <br >
     10,000 SNACKS<br >
    <br >
     SALADS AND HERBS<br >
    <br >
     THE SOUTH AMERICAN COOK BOOK<br >
    <br >
     SOUPS, SAUCES AND GRAVIES<br >
    <br >
     THE VEGETABLE COOK BOOK<br >
    <br >
     LOOK BEFORE YOU COOK!<br >
    <br >
     THE EUROPEAN COOK BOOK<br >
    <br >
     THE WINING AND DINING QUIZ<br >
    <br >
     MOST FOR YOUR MONEY<br >
    <br >
     OUTDOOR COOKING<br >
    <br >
     FISH AND SEAFOOD COOK BOOK<br >
    <br >
     THE COUNTRY COOK BOOK</p>

    <p><i>Co-author of Food and Drink Books by</i> The Browns</p>

    <p>LET THERE BE BEER!<br >
    <br >
     HOMEMADE HILARITY</p>

    <p><!-- Page 4 --><a id="Page_4"></a> &nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div class="figcenter">
        <img src="images/004.gif" alt="Illustration:TO" style="width: 225px; height: 104px">
    </div>

    <div class="h3">PHIL</div>

    <div class="h3">ALPERT</div>

    <div class="h3"><i>Turophile Extraordinary</i></div>

    <p><!-- Page 5 --><a id="Page_5"></a> &nbsp;</p><!-- Blank page -->

    <p><!-- Page 6 --><a id="Page_6"></a> &nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div>
        <img src="images/006.gif" alt="Contents" style="width: 250px; height: 282px">
    </div>

    <div class="toc">
        <p><b>&nbsp;1. <a href="#Page_7">I Remember
        Cheese</a></b></p>

        <p><b>&nbsp;2. <a href="#Page_11">The Big
        Cheese</a></b></p>

        <p><b>&nbsp;3. <a href="#Page_17">Foreign
        Greats</a></b></p>

        <p><b>&nbsp;4. <a href="#Page_37">Native
        Americans</a></b></p>

        <p><b>&nbsp;5. <a href="#Page_50">Sixty-five Sizzling
        Rabbits</a></b></p>

        <p><b>&nbsp;6. <a href="#Page_84">The Fondue</a></b></p>

        <p><b>&nbsp;7. <a href="#Page_99">Souffl&eacute;s, Puffs
        and Ramekins</a></b></p>

        <p><b>&nbsp;8. <a href="#Page_111">Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes
        and Cheese Cake</a></b></p>

        <p><b>&nbsp;9. <a href="#Page_129">Au Gratin, Soups, Salads
        and Sauces</a></b></p>

        <p><b>10. <a href="#Page_144">Appetizers, Crackers,
        Sandwiches, Savories, Snacks, Spreads and
        Toasts</a></b></p>

        <p><b>11. <a href="#Page_154">"Fit for Drink"</a></b></p>

        <p><b>12. <a href="#Page_158">Lazy Lou</a></b></p>

        <p><b><a href="#Page_166">APPENDIX&mdash;The A-B-Z of
        Cheese</a></b></p>

        <p><b><a href="#AtoZ_A">A</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_B">B</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_C">C</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_D">D</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_E">E</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_F">F</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_G">G</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_H">H</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_I">I</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_J">J</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_K">K</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_L">L</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_M">M</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_N">N</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_O">O</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_P">P</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_Q">Q</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_R">R</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_S">S</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_T">T</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_U">U</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_V">V</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_W">W</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_Y">Y</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;
        <a href="#AtoZ_Z">Z</a> &nbsp; &nbsp;</b></p>

        <p><b><a href="#Page_316">INDEX OF RECIPES</a></b></p>

        <p><b><a href="#Page_320">ABOUT THE AUTHOR</a></b></p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 7 --><a id="Page_7"></a> &nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p><!-- Page 8 --><a id="Page_8"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <div>
        <img src="images/008.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 326px">
    </div>

    <div class="rightalign">
        <i>Chapter<br >
         One</i>
    </div>

    <h2>I Remember Cheese</h2>

    <p>Cheese market day in a town in the north of Holland. All the
    cheese-fanciers are out, thumping the cannon-ball Edams and the
    millstone Goudas with their bare red knuckles, plugging in with
    a hollow steel tool for samples. In Holland the business of
    judging a crumb of cheese has been taken with great seriousness
    for centuries. The abracadabra is comparable to that of the
    wine-taster or tea-taster. These Edamers have the trained ear
    of music-masters and, merely by knuckle-rapping, can tell down
    to an air pocket left by a gas bubble just how mature the
    interior is.</p>

    <p>The connoisseurs use gingerbread as a mouth-freshener; and
    I, too, that sunny day among the Edams, kept my gingerbread
    handy and made my way from one fine cheese to another, trying
    out generous plugs from the heaped cannon balls that looked
    like the ammunition dump at Antietam.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 9 --><a id="Page_9"></a> I remember another market day, this time in
       Lucerne. All morning I stocked up on good Schweizerk&auml;se
       and better Gruy&egrave;re. For lunch I had cheese salad. All
       around me the farmers were rolling two-hundred-pound
       Emmentalers, bigger than oxcart wheels. I sat in a little
       caf&eacute;, absorbing cheese and cheese lore in equal
       quantities. I learned that a prize cheese must be chock-full
       of equal-sized eyes, the gas holes produced during
       fermentation. They must glisten like polished bar glass. The
       cheese itself must be of a light, lemonish yellow. Its
       flavor must be nutlike. (Nuts and Swiss cheese complement
       each other as subtly as Gorgonzola and a ripe banana.) There
       are, I learned, "blind" Swiss cheeses as well, but the
       million-eyed ones are better.</p>

    <p>But I don't have to hark back to Switzerland and Holland for
    cheese memories. Here at home we have increasingly taken over
    the cheeses of all nations, first importing them, then
    imitating them, from Swiss Engadine to what we call Genuine
    Sprinz. We've naturalized Scandinavian Blues and smoked browns
    and baptized our own Saaland Pfarr in native whiskey. Of fifty
    popular Italian types we duplicate more than half, some fairly
    well, others badly.</p>

    <p>We have our own legitimate offspring too, beginning with the
    Pineapple, supposed to have been first made about 1845 in
    Litchfield County, Connecticut. We have our own creamy
    Neufch&acirc;tel, New York Coon, Vermont Sage, the delicious
    Liederkranz, California Jack, Nuworld, and dozens of others,
    not all quite so original.</p>

    <p>And, true to the American way, we've organized
    cheese-eating. There's an annual cheese week, and a cheese
    month (October). We even boast a mail-order Cheese-of-the-Month
    Club. We haven't yet reached the point of sophistication,
    however, attained by a Paris cheese club that meets regularly.
    To qualify for membership you have to identify two hundred
    basic cheeses, and you have to do it blindfolded.</p>

    <p>This is a test I'd prefer not to submit to, but in my
    amateur way I have during the past year or two been sharpening
    my <!-- Page 10 --><a id="Page_10"></a>cheese perception with whatever varieties I
       could encounter around New York. I've run into briny
       Caucasian Cossack, Corsican Gricotta, and exotics like
       Rarush Durmar, Travnik, and Karaghi La-la. Cheese-hunting is
       one of the greatest&mdash;and least competitively
       crowded&mdash;of sports. I hope this book may lead others to
       give it a try.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><!-- Page 11 --><a id="Page_11"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <div>
        <img src="images/011.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 315px">
    </div>

    <div class="rightalign">
        <i>Chapter<br >
         Two</i>
    </div>

    <h2>The Big Cheese</h2>

    <p>One of the world's first outsize cheeses officially weighed
    in at four tons in a fair at Toronto, Canada, seventy years
    ago. Another monstrous Cheddar tipped the scales at six tons in
    the New York State Fair at Syracuse in 1937.</p>

    <p>Before this, a one-thousand-pounder was fetched all the way
    from New Zealand to London to star in the Wembley Exposition of
    1924. But, compared to the outsize Syracusan, it looked like a
    Baby Gouda. As a matter of fact, neither England nor any of her
    great dairying colonies have gone in for mammoth jobs, except
    Canada, with that four-tonner shown at Toronto.</p>

    <p>We should mention two historic king-size Chesters. You can
    find out all about them in <i>Cheddar Gorge,</i> edited by Sir
    John Squire. The first of them weighed 149 pounds, and was the
    largest made, up to the year 1825. It was proudly presented to
    H.R.H. the Duke of York. (Its heft almost tied the 147-pound
    Green <!-- Page 12 --><a id="Page_12"></a>County wheel of Wisconsin Swiss presented
       by the makers to President Coolidge in 1928 in appreciation
       of his raising the protective tariff against genuine Swiss
       to 50 percent.) While the cheese itself weighed a mite under
       150, His Royal Highness, ruff, belly, knee breeches, doffed
       high hat and all, was a hundred-weight heavier, and thus
       almost dwarfed it.</p>

    <p>It was almost a century later that the second
    record-breaking Chester weighed in, at only 200 pounds. Yet it
    won a Gold Medal and a Challenge Cup and was presented to the
    King, who graciously accepted it. This was more than Queen
    Victoria had done with a bridal gift cheese that tipped the
    scales at 1,100 pounds. It took a whole day's yield from 780
    contented cows, and stood a foot and eight inches high,
    measuring nine feet, four inches around the middle. The
    assembled donors of the cheese were so proud of it that they
    asked royal permission to exhibit it on a round of country
    fairs. The Queen assented to this ambitious request, perhaps
    prompted by the exhibition-minded Albert. The publicity-seeking
    cheesemongers assured Her Majesty that the gift would be
    returned to her just as soon as it had been exhibited. But the
    Queen didn't want it back after it was show-worn. The donors
    began to quarrel among themselves about what to do with the
    remains, until finally it got into Chancery where so many lost
    causes end their days. The cheese was never heard of again.</p>

    <p>While it is generally true that the bigger the cheese the
    better, (much the same as a magnum bottle of champagne is
    better than a pint), there is a limit to the obesity of a
    block, ball or brick of almost any kinds of cheese. When they
    pass a certain limit, they lack homogeneity and are not nearly
    so good as the smaller ones. Today a good magnum size for an
    exhibition Cheddar is 560 pounds; for a prize Provolone, 280
    pounds; while a Swiss wheel of only 210 will draw crowds to any
    food-shop window.</p>

    <p>Yet by and large it's the monsters that get into the Cheese
    Hall of Fame and come down to us in song and story. For
    example, that four-ton Toronto affair inspired a cheese poet,
    James McIntyre, who doubled as the local undertaker.</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <!-- Page 13 --><a id="Page_13"></a> <span>We have thee, mammoth
                 cheese,<br ></span> <span>Lying quietly at your
                 ease;<br ></span> <span>Gently fanned by evening
                 breeze,<br ></span> <span>Thy fair form no flies
                 dare seize.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>All gaily dressed soon you'll go<br ></span>
            <span>To the greatest provincial show,<br ></span>
            <span>To be admired by many a beau<br ></span>
            <span>In the city of Toronto.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>May you not receive a scar as<br ></span>
            <span>We have heard that Mr. Harris<br ></span>
            <span>Intends to send you off as far as<br ></span>
            <span>The great world's show at Paris.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>Of the youth beware of these,<br ></span>
            <span>For some of them might rudely
            squeeze<br ></span> <span>And bite your cheek; then
            song or glees<br ></span> <span>We could not sing, oh,
            Queen of Cheese.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>An ode to a one hundred percent American mammoth was
    inspired by "The Ultra-Democratic, Anti-Federalist Cheese of
    Cheshire." This was in the summer of 1801 when the patriotic
    people of Cheshire, Massachusetts, turned out en masse to
    concoct a mammoth cheese on the village green for presentation
    to their beloved President Jefferson. The unique demonstration
    occurred spontaneously in jubilant commemoration of the
    greatest political triumph of a new country in a new
    century&mdash;the victory of the Democrats over the
    Federalists. Its collective making was heralded in Boston's
    <i>Mercury and New England Palladium</i>, September 8,
    1801:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span><i>The Mammoth Cheese</i></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>AN EPICO-LYRICO BALLAD</span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>From meadows rich, with clover red,<br ></span>
            <span class="i2">A thousand heifers come;<br ></span>
            <span><!-- Page 14 --><a id="Page_14"></a> The tinkling bells the tidings
               spread,<br ></span> <span>The milkmaid muffles up
               her head,<br ></span> <span class="i2">And wakes
               the village hum.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>In shining pans the snowy flood<br ></span>
            <span class="i2">Through whitened canvas
            pours;<br ></span> <span>The dyeing pots of otter
            good<br ></span> <span>And rennet tinged with madder
            blood<br ></span> <span class="i2">Are sought among
            their stores.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>The quivering curd, in panniers
            stowed,<br ></span> <span class="i2">Is loaded on the
            jade,<br ></span> <span>The stumbling beast supports
            the load,<br ></span> <span>While trickling whey
            bedews the road<br ></span> <span class="i2">Along the
            dusty glade.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>As Cairo's slaves, to bondage bred,<br ></span>
            <span class="i2">The arid deserts roam,<br ></span>
            <span>Through trackless sands undaunted
            tread,<br ></span> <span>With skins of water on their
            head<br ></span> <span class="i2">To cheer their
            masters home,<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>So here full many a sturdy swain<br ></span>
            <span class="i2">His precious baggage
            bore;<br ></span> <span>Old misers e'en forgot their
            gain,<br ></span> <span>And bed-rid cripples, free
            from pain,<br ></span> <span class="i2">Now took the
            road before.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>The widow, with her dripping mite<br ></span>
            <span class="i2">Upon her saddle horn,<br ></span>
            <span>Rode up in haste to see the sight<br ></span>
            <span>And aid a charity so right,<br ></span>
            <span class="i2">A pauper so forlorn.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>The circling throng an opening drew<br ></span>
            <span class="i2">Upon the verdant-grass<br ></span>
            <span>To let the vast procession through<br ></span>
            <span><!-- Page 15 --><a id="Page_15"></a>To spread their rich repast in
               view,<br ></span> <span class="i2">And Elder J. L.
               pass.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>Then Elder J. with lifted eyes<br ></span>
            <span class="i2">In musing posture stood,<br ></span>
            <span>Invoked a blessing from the skies<br ></span>
            <span>To save from vermin, mites and
            flies,<br ></span> <span class="i2">And keep the
            bounty good.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>Now mellow strokes the yielding pile<br ></span>
            <span class="i2">From polished steel
            receives,<br ></span> <span>And shining nymphs stand
            still a while,<br ></span> <span>Or mix the mass with
            salt and oil,<br ></span> <span class="i2">With sage
            and savory leaves.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>Then sextonlike, the patriot troop,<br ></span>
            <span class="i2">With naked arms and
            crown,<br ></span> <span>Embraced, with hardy hands,
            the scoop,<br ></span> <span>And filled the vast
            expanded hoop,<br ></span> <span class="i2">While
            beetles smacked it down.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>Next girding screws the ponderous
            beam,<br ></span> <span class="i2">With heft immense,
            drew down;<br ></span> <span>The gushing whey from
            every seam<br ></span> <span>Flowed through the
            streets a rapid stream,<br ></span>
            <span class="i2">And shad came up to town.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>This spirited achievement of early democracy is commemorated
    today by a sign set up at the ancient and honorable town of
    Cheshire, located between Pittsfield and North Adams, on Route
    8.</p>

    <p>Jefferson's speech of thanks to the democratic people of
    Cheshire rings out in history: "I look upon this cheese as a
    token of fidelity from the very heart of the people of this
    land to the great cause of equal rights to all men."</p>

    <p>This popular presentation started a tradition. When Van
    Buren succeeded to the Presidency, he received a similar
    mammoth <!-- Page 16 --><a id="Page_16"></a>cheese in token of the high esteem in which
       he was held. A monstrous one, bigger than the Jeffersonian,
       was made by New Englanders to show their loyalty to
       President Jackson. For weeks this stood in state in the hall
       of the White House. At last the floor was a foot deep in the
       fragments remaining after the enthusiastic Democrats had
       eaten their fill.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p><!-- Page 17 --><a id="Page_17"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div>
        <img src="images/017.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 268px">
    </div>

    <div class="rightalign">
        <i>Chapter<br >
         Three</i>
    </div>

    <h2>Foreign Greats</h2>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span><i>Ode to Cheese</i><br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza"></div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>God of the country, bless today Thy
            cheese,<br ></span> <span>For which we give Thee
            thanks on bended knees.<br ></span> <span>Let them be
            fat or light, with onions blent,<br ></span>
            <span>Shallots, brine, pepper, honey; whether
            scent<br ></span> <span>Of sheep or fields is in them,
            in the yard<br ></span> <span>Let them, good Lord, at
            dawn be beaten hard.<br ></span> <span>And let their
            edges take on silvery shades<br ></span> <span>Under
            the moist red hands of dairymaids;<br ></span>
            <span>And, round and greenish, let them go to
            town<br ></span> <span>Weighing the shepherd's folding
            mantle down;<br ></span> <span>Whether from Parma or
            from Jura heights,<br ></span> <span>Kneaded by august
            hands of Carmelites,<br ></span> <span>Stamped with
            the mitre of a proud abbess.<br ></span>
            <span>Flowered with the perfumes of the grass of
            Bresse,<br ></span> <span>From hollow Holland, from
            the Vosges, from Brie,<br ></span> <span>From
            Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Italy!<br ></span> <span>
            <!-- Page 18 --><a id="Page_18"></a> Bless them, good Lord! Bless
               Stilton's royal fare,<br ></span> <span>Red
               Cheshire, and the tearful cream
               Gruy&egrave;re.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span class="auth">FROM JETHRO BITHELL'S
            TRANSLATION<br ></span> <span class="auth">OF A POEM
            BY M. Thomas Braun<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p><i>Symphonie des Fromages</i></p>

        <p>A giant Cantal, seeming to have been chopped open with
        an ax, stood aside of a golden-hued Chester and a Swiss
        Gruy&egrave;re resembling the wheel of a Roman chariot
        There were Dutch Edams, round and blood-red, and
        Port-Saluts lined up like soldiers on parade. Three Bries,
        side by side, suggested phases of the moon; two of them,
        very dry, were amber-colored and "full," and the third, in
        its second quarter, was runny and creamy, with a "milky
        way" which no human barrier seemed able to restrain. And
        all the while majestic Roqueforts looked down with princely
        contempt upon the other, through the glass of their crystal
        covers.</p>

        <p class="author">Emile Zola</p>
    </div>

    <p>In 1953 the United States Department of Agriculture
    published Handbook No. 54, entitled <i>Cheese Varieties and
    Descriptions,</i> with this comment: "There probably are only
    about eighteen distinct types or kinds of natural cheese." All
    the rest (more than 400 names) are of local origin, usually
    named after towns or communities. A list of the best-known
    names applied to each of these distinct varieties or groups is
    given:</p>

    <div class="center">
        <table style="padding: 6px;">
            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">Brick</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">Gouda</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">Romano</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">Camembert</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">Hand</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">Roquefort</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">Cheddar</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">Limburger</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">Sapsago</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">Cottage</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">Neufch&acirc;tel</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">Swiss</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">Cream</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">Parmesan</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">Trappist</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">Edam</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">Provolone</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">Whey cheeses (Mysost and Ricotta)</td>
            </tr>
        </table>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 19 --><a id="Page_19"></a> May we nominate another dozen to form our
       own Cheese Hall of Fame? We begin our list with a partial
       roll call of the big Blues family and end it with members of
       the monastic order of Port-Salut Trappist that includes
       Canadian Oka and our own Kentucky thoroughbred.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>The Blues that Are Green</b></p>

    <p>Stilton, Roquefort and Gorgonzola form the triumvirate that
    rules a world of lesser Blues. They are actually green, as
    green as the mythical cheese the moon is made of.</p>

    <p>In almost every, land where cheese is made you can sample a
    handful of lesser Blues and imitations of the invincible three
    and try to classify them, until you're blue in the face. The
    best we can do in this slight summary is to mention a few of
    the most notable, aside from our own Blues of Minnesota,
    Wisconsin, Oregon and other states that major in cheese.</p>

    <p>Danish Blues are popular and splendidly made, such as
    "Flower of Denmark." The Argentine competes with a pampas-grass
    Blue all its own. But France and England are the leaders in
    this line, France first with a sort of triple triumvirate
    within a triumvirate&mdash;Septmoncel, Gex, and Sassenage, all
    three made with three milks mixed together: cow, goat and
    sheep. Septmoncel is the leader of these, made in the Jura
    mountains and considered by many French caseophiles to outrank
    Roquefort.</p>

    <p>This class of Blue or marbled cheese is called fromage
    persill&eacute;, as well as fromage bleu and pate bleue.
    Similar mountain cheeses are made in Auvergne and Aubrac and
    have distinct qualities that have brought them fame, such as
    Cantal, bleu d'Auvergne Guiole or Laguiole, bleu de Salers, and
    St. Flour. Olivet and Queville come within the color scheme,
    and sundry others such as Champol&eacute;on, Journiac, Queyras
    and Sarraz.</p>

    <p>Of English Blues there are several celebrities beside
    Stilton and Cheshire Stilton. Wensleydale was one in the early
    days, and still <!-- Page 20 --><a id="Page_20"></a>is, together with Blue Dorset, the deepest
       green of them all, and esoteric Blue Vinny, a choosey cheese
       not liked by everybody, the favorite of Thomas Hardy.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Brie</b></p>

    <p>Sheila Hibben once wrote in <i>The New Yorker:</i></p>

    <p>I can't imagine any difference of opinion about Brie's being
    the queen of all cheeses, and if there is any such difference,
    I shall certainly ignore it. The very shape of Brie&mdash;so
    uncheese-like and so charmingly fragile&mdash;is exciting. Nine
    times out of ten a Brie will let you down&mdash;will be all
    caked into layers, which shows it is too young, or at the
    over-runny stage, which means it is too old&mdash;but when you
    come on the tenth Brie, <i>coulant</i> to just the right,
    delicate creaminess, and the color of fresh, sweet butter, no
    other cheese can compare with it.</p>

    <p>The season of Brie, like that of oysters, is simple to
    remember: only months with an "R," beginning with September,
    which is the best, bar none.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Caciocavallo</b></p>

    <p>From Bulgaria to Turkey the Italian "horse cheese," as
    Caciocavallo translates, is as universally popular as it is at
    home and in all the Little Italics throughout the rest of the
    world. Flattering imitations are made and named after it, as
    follows:</p>

    <div class="center">
        <table style="padding: 2px;">
            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">BULGARIA:</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Kascaval</b></td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">GREECE:</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Kashcavallo</b> and <b>Caskcaval</b></td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">HUNGARY:</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Parenica</b></td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">RUMANIA:</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Pentele</b> and <b>Kascaval</b></td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">SERBIA:</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Katschkawalj</b></td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">SYRIA:</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Cashkavallo</b>
                <!-- Page 21 --><a id="Page_21"></a></td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">TRANSYLVANIA:</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Kascaval</b> (as in Rumania)</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">TURKEY:</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Cascaval Penir</b></td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">YUGOSLAVIA:</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Kackavalj</b></td>
            </tr>
        </table>
    </div>

    <p>A horse's head printed on the cheese gave rise to its
    popular name and to the myth that it is made of mare's milk. It
    is, however, curded from cow's milk, whole or partly skimmed,
    and sometimes from water buffalo; hard, yellow and so buttery
    that the best of it, which comes from Sorrento, is called
    <i>Cacio burro,</i> butter cheese. Slightly salty, with a spicy
    tang, it is eaten sliced when young and mild and used for
    grating and seasoning when old, not only on the usual Italian
    pastes but on sweets.</p>

    <p>Different from the many grating cheeses made from little
    balls of curd called <i>grana</i>, Caciocavallo is a <i>pasta
    fileta</i>, or drawn-curd product. Because of this it is
    sometimes drawn out in long thick threads and braided. It is a
    cheese for skilled artists to make sculptures with, sometimes
    horses' heads, again bunches of grapes and other fruits, even
    as Provolone is shaped like apples and pears and often worked
    into elaborate bas-relief designs. But ordinarily the horse's
    head is a plain tenpin in shape or a squat bottle with a knob
    on the side by which it has been tied up, two cheeses at a
    time, on opposite sides of a rafter, while being smoked lightly
    golden and rubbed with olive oil and butter to make it all the
    more buttery.</p>

    <p>In Calabria and Sicily it is very popular, and although the
    best comes from Sorrento, there is keen competition from
    Abruzzi, Apulian Province and Molise. It keeps well and doesn't
    spoil when shipped overseas.</p>

    <p>In his <i>Little Book of Cheese</i> Osbert Burdett
    recommends the high, horsy strength of this smoked Cacio over
    tobacco smoke after dinner:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Only monsters smoke at meals, but a monster assured me
        that Gorgonzola best survives this malpractice. Clearly,
        some pungency is necessary, and confidence suggests rather
        Cacio which would survive anything, the monster said.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 22 --><a id="Page_22"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Camembert</b></p>

    <p>Camembert is called "mold-matured" and all that is genuine
    is labeled <i>Syndicat du Vrai Camembert</i>. The name in full
    is <i>Syndicat des Fabricants du Veritable Camembert de
    Normandie</i> and we agree that this is "a most useful
    association for the defense of one of the best cheeses of
    France." Its extremely delicate piquance cannot be matched,
    except perhaps by Brie.</p>

    <p>Napoleon is said to have named it and to have kissed the
    waitress who first served it to him in the tiny town of
    Camembert. And there a statue stands today in the market place
    to honor Marie Harel who made the first Camembert.</p>

    <p>Camembert is equally good on thin slices of apple,
    pineapple, pear, French "flute" or pumpernickel. As-with Brie
    and with oysters, Camembert should be eaten only in the "R"
    months, and of these September is the best.</p>

    <p>Since Camembert rhymes with beware, if you can't get the
    <i>v&eacute;ritable</i> don't fall for a domestic imitation or
    any West German abomination such as one dressed like a
    valentine in a heart-shaped box and labeled
    "Camembert&mdash;Cheese Exquisite." They are equally tasteless,
    chalky with youth, or choking with ammoniacal gas when old and
    decrepit.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Cheddar</b></p>

    <p>The English <i>Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery</i>
    says:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Cheddar cheese is one of the kings of cheese; it is pale
        coloured, mellow, salvy, and, when good, resembling a
        hazelnut in flavour. The Cheddar principle pervades the
        whole cheesemaking districts of America, Canada and New
        Zealand, but no cheese imported into England can equal the
        Cheddars of Somerset and the West of Scotland.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Named for a village near Bristol where farmer Joseph Harding
    first manufactured it, the best is still called Farmhouse
    Cheddar, <!-- Page 23 --><a id="Page_23"></a>but in America we have practically none of
       this. Farmhouse Cheddar must be ripened at least nine months
       to a mellowness, and little of our American cheese gets as
       much as that. Back in 1695 John Houghton wrote that it
       "contended in goodness (if kept from two to five years,
       according to magnitude) with any cheese in England."</p>

    <p>Today it is called "England's second-best cheese," second
    after Stilton, of course.</p>

    <p>In early days a large cheese sufficed for a year or two of
    family feeding, according to this old note: "A big Cheddar can
    be kept for two years in excellent condition if kept in a cool
    room and turned over every other day."</p>

    <p>But in old England some were harder to preserve: "In Bath...
    I asked one lady of the larder how she kept Cheddar cheese. Her
    eyes twinkled: 'We don't keep cheese; we eats it.'"</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Cheshire</b></p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>A Cheshireman sailed into Spain<br ></span>
            <span>To trade for merchandise;<br ></span> <span>When
            he arrived from the main<br ></span> <span>A Spaniard
            him espies.<br ></span> <span>Who said, "You English
            rogue, look here!<br ></span> <span>What fruits and
            spices fine<br ></span> <span>Our land produces twice
            a year.<br ></span> <span>Thou has not such in
            thine."<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>The Cheshireman ran to his hold<br ></span>
            <span>And fetched a Cheshire cheese,<br ></span>
            <span>And said, "Look here, you dog,
            behold!<br ></span> <span>We have such fruits as
            these.<br ></span> <span>Your fruits are ripe but
            twice a year,<br ></span> <span>As you yourself do
            say,<br ></span> <span>But such as I present you
            here<br ></span> <span>Our land brings twice a
            day."</span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span class="center">Anonymous</span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <!-- Page 24 --><a id="Page_24"></a>

        <p>Let us pass on to cheese. We have some glorious cheeses,
        and far too few people glorying in them. The Cheddar of the
        inn, of the chophouse, of the average English home, is a
        libel on a thing which, when authentic, is worthy of great
        honor. Cheshire, divinely commanded into existence as to
        three parts to precede and as to one part to accompany
        certain Tawny Ports and some Late-Bottled Ports, can be a
        thing for which the British Navy ought to fire a salute on
        the principle on which Colonel Brisson made his regiment
        salute when passing the great Burgundian vineyard.</p>

        <p class="author">T. Earle Welby,<br >
         IN "THE DINNER KNELL"</p>
    </div>

    <p>Cheshire is not only the most literary cheese in England,
    but the oldest. It was already manufactured when Caesar
    conquered Britain, and tradition is that the Romans built the
    walled city of Chester to control the district where the
    precious cheese was made. Chester on the River Dee was a
    stronghold against the Roman invasion.</p>

    <p>It came to fame with The Old Cheshire Cheese in Elizabethan
    times and waxed great with Samuel Johnson presiding at the
    Fleet Street Inn where White Cheshire was served "with radishes
    or watercress or celery when in season," and Red Cheshire was
    served toasted or stewed in a sort of Welsh Rabbit. (<i>See</i>
    <a href="#Page_50">Chapter 5</a>.)</p>

    <p>The Blue variety is called Cheshire-Stilton, and Vyvyan
    Holland, in <i>Cheddar Gorge</i> suggests that "it was no doubt
    a cheese of this sort, discovered and filched from the larder
    of the Queen of Hearts, that accounted for the contented grin
    on the face of the Cheshire Cat in Alice in Wonderland."</p>

    <p>All very English, as recorded in Victor Meusy's couplet:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span><i>Dans le Chester sec et rose</i><br ></span>
            <span><i>A longues dents, l'Anglais
            mord.</i><br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>In the Chester dry and pink<br ></span>
            <span>The long teeth of the English sink.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 25 --><a id="Page_25"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Edam and Gouda</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p><i>Edam in Peace and War</i></p>

        <p>There also coming into the river two Dutchmen, we sent a
        couple of men on board and brought three Holland cheeses,
        cost 4d. a piece, excellent cheeses.</p>

        <p class="author">Pepys' <i>Diary</i>, March 2,1663</p>
    </div>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Commodore Coe, of the Montevidian Navy, defeated Admiral
        Brown of the Buenos Ayrean Navy, in a naval battle, when he
        used Holland cheese for cannon balls.</p>

        <p class="author"><i>The Harbinger</i> (Vermont), December
        11, 1847</p>
    </div>

    <p>The crimson cannon balls of Holland have been heard around
    the world. Known as "red balls" in England and
    <i>katzenkopf,</i> "cat's head," in Germany, they differ from
    Gouda chiefly in the shape, Gouda being round but flattish and
    now chiefly imported as one-pound Baby Goudas.</p>

    <p>Edam when it is good is very, very good, but when it is bad
    it is horrid. Sophisticated ones are sent over already
    scalloped for the ultimate consumer to add port, and there are
    crocks of Holland cheese potted with sauterne. Both Edam and
    Gouda should be well aged to develop full-bodied quality, two
    years being the accepted standard for Edam.</p>

    <p>The best Edams result from a perfect combination of Breed
    (black-and-white Dutch Friesian) and Feed (the rich pasturage
    of Friesland and Noord Holland).</p>

    <p>The Goudas, shaped like English Derby and Belgian Delft and
    Leyden, come from South Holland. Some are specially made for
    the Jewish trade and called Kosher Gouda. Both Edam and Gouda
    are eaten at mealtimes thrice daily in Holland. A Dutch
    breakfast without one or the other on black bread with butter
    and black coffee would be unthinkable. They're also boon
    companions to plum bread and Dutch cocoa.</p>

    <p>"Eclair Edams" are those with soft insides.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 26 --><a id="Page_26"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Emmentaler, Gruy&egrave;re and Swiss</b></p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>When the working woman<br ></span> <span>Takes
            her midday lunch,<br ></span> <span>It is a piece of
            Gruy&egrave;re<br ></span> <span>Which for her takes
            the place of roast.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span class="auth">Victor Meusy<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>Whether an Emmentaler is eminently Schweizerk&auml;se, grand
    Gruy&egrave;re from France, or lesser Swiss of the United
    States, the shape, size and glisten of the eyes indicate the
    stage of ripeness, skill of making and quality of flavor. They
    must be uniform, roundish, about the size of a big cherry and,
    most important of all, must glisten like the eye of a lass in
    love, dry but with the suggestion of a tear.</p>

    <p>Gruy&egrave;re does not see eye to eye with the big-holed
    Swiss Saanen cartwheel or American imitation. It has tiny
    holes, and many of them; let us say it is freckled with
    pinholes, rather than pock-marked. This variety is technically
    called a <i>niszler</i>, while one without any holes at all is
    "blind." Eyes or holes are also called vesicles.</p>

    <p>Gruy&egrave;re Trauben (Grape Gruy&egrave;re) is aged in
    Neuch&acirc;tel wine in Switzerland, although most
    Gruy&egrave;re has been made in France since its introduction
    there in 1722. The most famous is made in the Jura, and another
    is called Comt&eacute; from its origin in
    Franche-Comt&eacute;.</p>

    <p>A blind Emmentaler was made in Switzerland for export to
    Italy where it was hardened in caves to become a grating cheese
    called Raper, and now it is largely imitated there. Emmentaler,
    in fact, because of its piquant pecan-nut flavor and inimitable
    quality, is simulated everywhere, even in Switzerland.</p>

    <p>Besides phonies from Argentina and countries as far off as
    Finland, we get a flood of imported and domestic Swisses of all
    sad sorts, with all possible faults&mdash;from too many holes,
    that make a flabby, wobbly cheese, to too few&mdash;cracked,
    dried-up, collapsed <!-- Page 27 --><a id="Page_27"></a>or utterly ruined by molding inside. So it
       will pay you to buy only the kind already marked genuine in
       Switzerland. For there cheese such as Saanen takes six years
       to ripen, improves with age, and keeps forever.</p>

    <p>Cartwheels well over a hundred years old are still kept in
    cheese cellars (as common in Switzerland as wine cellars are in
    France), and it is said that the rank of a family is determined
    by the age and quality of the cheese in its larder.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Feta and Casere</b></p>

    <p>The Greeks have a name for it&mdash;Feta. Their neighbors
    call it Greek cheese. Feta is to cheese what Hymettus is to
    honey. The two together make ambrosial manna. Feta is soft and
    as blinding white as a plate of fresh Ricotta smothered with
    sour cream. The whiteness is preserved by shipping the cheese
    all the way from Greece in kegs sloshing full of milk, the milk
    being renewed from time to time. Having been cured in brine,
    this great sheep-milk curd is slightly salty and somewhat
    sharp, but superbly spicy.</p>

    <p>When first we tasted it fresh from the keg with salty milk
    dripping through our fingers, we gave it full marks. This was
    at the Staikos Brothers Greek-import store on West 23rd Street
    in Manhattan. We then compared Feta with thin wisps of its
    grown-up brother, Casere. This gray and greasy, hard and
    brittle palate-tickler of sheep's milk made us bleat for more
    Feta.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Gorgonzola</b></p>

    <p>Gorgonzola, least pretentious of the Blues triumvirate
    (including Roquefort and Stilton) is nonetheless by common
    consent monarch of all other Blues from Argentina to Denmark.
    In England, indeed, many epicures consider Gorgonzola greater
    than Stilton, which is the highest praise any cheese can get
    there. <!-- Page 28 --><a id="Page_28"></a>Like all great cheeses it has been widely
       imitated, but never equaled. Imported Gorgonzola, when
       fruity ripe, is still firm but creamy and golden inside with
       rich green veins running through. Very pungent and highly
       flavored, it is eaten sliced or crumbled to flavor salad
       dressings, like Roquefort.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Habl&eacute; Cr&egrave;me Chantilly</b></p>

    <p>The name Habl&eacute; Cr&egrave;me Chantilly sounds French,
    but the cheese is Swedish and actually lives up to the blurb in
    the imported package: "The overall characteristic is
    indescribable and delightful freshness."</p>

    <p>This exclusive product of the Walk G&auml;rd Creamery was
    hailed by Sheila Hibben in <i>The New Yorker</i> of May 6,
    1950, as enthusiastically as Brillat-Savarin would have greeted
    a new dish, or the Planetarium a new star:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Endeavoring to be as restrained as I can, I shall merely
        suggest that the arrival of Cr&egrave;me Chantilly is a
        historic event and that in reporting on it I feel something
        of the responsibility that the contemporaries of Madame
        Harel, the famous cheese-making lady of Normandy, must have
        felt when they were passing judgment on the first
        Camembert.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Miss Hibben goes on to say that only a fromage &agrave; la
    cr&egrave;me made in Quebec had come anywhere near her
    impression of the new Swedish triumph. She quotes the last word
    from the makers themselves: "This is a very special product
    that has never been made on this earth before," and speaks of
    "the elusive flavor of mushrooms" before summing up, "the
    exquisitely textured curd and the unexpectedly fresh flavor
    combine to make it one of the most subtly enjoyable foods that
    have come my way in a long time."</p>

    <p>And so say we&mdash;all of us.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 29 --><a id="Page_29"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Hand Cheese</b></p>

    <p>Hand cheese has this niche in our Cheese Hall of Fame not
    because we consider it great, but because it is usually
    included among the eighteen varieties on which the hundreds of
    others are based. It is named from having been molded into its
    final shape by hand. Universally popular with Germanic races,
    it is too strong for the others. To our mind, Hand cheese never
    had anything that Allg&auml;uer or Limburger hasn't improved
    upon.</p>

    <p>It is the only cheese that is commonly melted into steins of
    beer and drunk instead of eaten. It is usually studded with
    caraway seeds, the most natural spice for curds.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Limburger</b></p>

    <p>Limburger has always been popular in America, ever since it
    was brought over by German-American immigrants; but England
    never took to it. This is eloquently expressed in the following
    entry in the English <i>Encyclopedia of Practical
    Cookery</i>:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Limburger cheese is chiefly famous for its pungently
        offensive odor. It is made from skimmed milk, and allowed
        to partially decompose before pressing. It is very little
        known in this country, and might be less so with advantage
        to consumers.</p>
    </div>

    <p>But this is libel. Butter-soft and sapid, Limburger has
    brought gustatory pleasure to millions of hardy gastronomes
    since it came to light in the province of L&uuml;ttich in
    Belgium. It has been Americanized for almost a century and is
    by now one of the very few cheeses successfully imitated here,
    chiefly in New York and Wisconsin.</p>

    <p>Early Wisconsiners will never forget the Limburger Rebellion
    in Green County, when the people rose in protest against the
    Limburger caravan that was accustomed to park in the little
    town <!-- Page 30 --><a id="Page_30"></a>of Monroe where it was marketed. They
       threatened to stage a modern Boston Tea Party and dump the
       odoriferous bricks in the river, when five or six wagonloads
       were left ripening in the sun in front of the town bank. The
       Limburger was finally stored safely underground.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Livarot</b></p>

    <p>Livarot has been described as decadent, "The very Verlaine
    of them all," and Victor Meusy personifies it in a poem
    dedicated to all the great French cheeses, of which we give a
    free translation:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>In the dog days<br ></span> <span>In its
            overflowing dish<br ></span> <span>Livarot
            gesticulates<br ></span> <span>Or weeps like a
            child.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>M&uuml;nster</b></p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>At the diplomatic banquet<br ></span> <span>One
            must choose his piece.<br ></span> <span>All is
            politics,<br ></span> <span>A cheese and a
            flag.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>You annoy the Russians<br ></span> <span>If you
            take Chester;<br ></span> <span>You irritate the
            Prussians<br ></span> <span>In choosing
            M&uuml;nster.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span class="auth">Victor Meusy<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>Like Limburger, this male cheese, often caraway-flavored,
    does not fare well in England. Although over here we consider
    M&uuml;nster far milder than Limburger, the English writer Eric
    Weir in <i>When Madame Cooks</i> will have none of it:</p>

    <p><!-- Page 31 --><a id="Page_31"></a> I cannot think why this cheese was not
       thrown from the aeroplanes during the war to spread panic
       amongst enemy troops. It would have proved far more
       efficacious than those nasty deadly gases that kill people
       permanently.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Neufch&acirc;tel</b></p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>If the cream cheese be white<br ></span>
            <span>Far fairer the hands that made them.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span class="auth">Arthur Hugh Clough<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>Although originally from Normandy, Neufch&acirc;tel, like
    Limburger, was so long ago welcomed to America and made so
    splendidly at home here that we may consider it our very own.
    All we have against it is that it has served as the model for
    too many processed abominations.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Parmesan, Romano, Pecorino, Pecorino Romano</b></p>

    <p>Parmesan when young, soft and slightly crumbly is eaten on
    bread. But when well aged, let us say up to a century, it
    becomes Rock of Gibraltar of cheeses and really suited for
    grating. It is easy to believe that the so-called "Spanish
    cheese" used as a barricade by Americans in Nicaragua almost a
    century ago was none other than the almost indestructible
    Grana, as Parmesan is called in Italy.</p>

    <p>The association between cheese and battling began in B.C.
    days with the Jews and Romans, who fed cheese to their soldiers
    not only for its energy value but as a convenient form of
    rations, since every army travels on its stomach and can't go
    faster than its impedimenta. The last notable mention of cheese
    in war was the name of the <i>Monitor</i>: "A cheese box on a
    raft."</p>

    <p>Romano is not as expensive as Parmesan, although it is as
    friable, sharp and tangy for flavoring, especially for soups
    such as <!-- Page 32 --><a id="Page_32"></a>onion and minestrone. It is brittle and
       just off-white when well aged.</p>

    <p>Although made of sheep's milk, Pecorino is classed with both
    Parmesan and Romano. All three are excellently imitated in
    Argentina. Romano and Pecorino Romano are interchangeable names
    for the strong, medium-sharp and piquant Parmesan types that
    sell for considerably less. Most of it is now shipped from
    Sardinia. There are several different kinds: Pecorino Dolce
    (sweet), Sardo Tuscano, and Pecorino Romano Cacio, which
    relates it to Caciocavallo.</p>

    <p>Kibitzers complain that some of the cheaper types of
    Pecorino are soapy, but fans give it high praise. Gillian F.,
    in her "Letter from Italy" in Osbert Burdett's delectable
    <i>Little Book of Cheese</i>, writes:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Out in the orchard, my companion, I don't remember how,
        had provided the miracle: a flask of wine, a loaf of bread
        and a slab of fresh Pecorino cheese (there wasn't any
        "thou" for either) ... But that cheese was Paradise; and
        the flask was emptied, and a wood dove cooing made you
        think that the flask's contents were in a crystal goblet
        instead of an enamel cup ... one only ... and the cheese
        broken with the fingers ... a cheese of cheeses.</p>
    </div>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Pont L'Ev&ecirc;que</b></p>

    <p>This semisoft, medium-strong, golden-tinted French classic
    made since the thirteenth century, is definitely a dessert
    cheese whose excellence is brought out best by a sound claret
    or tawny port.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Port-Salut</b> (<i>See</i> <b>Trappist</b>)</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Provolone</b></p>

    <p>Within recent years Provolone has taken America by storm, as
    Camembert, Roquefort, Swiss, Limburger, Neufch&acirc;tel and
    such <!-- Page 33 --><a id="Page_33"></a>great ones did long before. But it has not
       been successfully imitated here because the original is made
       of rich water-buffalo milk unattainable in the Americas.</p>

    <p>With Caciocavallo, this mellow, smoky flavorsome delight is
    put up in all sorts of artistic forms, red-cellophaned apples,
    pears, bells, a regular zoo of animals, and in all sorts of
    sizes, up to a monumental hundred-pound bas-relief imported for
    exhibition purposes by Phil Alpert.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Roquefort</b></p>

    <p>Homage to this <i>fromage!</i> Long hailed as <i>le roi</i>
    Roquefort, it has filled books and booklets beyond count. By
    the miracle of <i>Penicillium Roqueforti</i> a new cheese was
    made. It is placed historically back around the eighth century
    when Charlemagne was found picking out the green spots of
    Persill&eacute; with the point of his knife, thinking them
    decay. But the monks of Saint-Gall, who were his hosts,
    recorded in their annals that when they regaled him with
    Roquefort (because it was Friday and they had no fish) they
    also made bold to tell him he was wasting the best part of the
    cheese. So he tasted again, found the advice excellent and
    liked it so well he ordered two <i>caisses</i> of it sent every
    year to his palace at Aix-la-Chapelle. He also suggested that
    it be cut in half first, to make sure it was well veined with
    blue, and then bound up with a wooden fastening.</p>

    <p>Perhaps he hoped the wood would protect the cheeses from
    mice and rats, for the good monks of Saint-Gall couldn't be
    expected to send an escort of cats from their chalky caves to
    guard them&mdash;even for Charlemagne. There is no telling how
    many cats were mustered out in the caves, in those early days,
    but a recent census put the number at five hundred. We can
    readily imagine the head handler in the caves leading a night
    inspection with a candle, followed by his chief taster and a
    regiment of cats. While the Dutch and other makers of cheese
    also employ cats to patrol <!-- Page 34 --><a id="Page_34"></a>their storage caves, Roquefort holds the
       record for number. An interesting point in this connection
       is that as rats and mice pick only the prime cheeses, a
       gnawed one is not thrown away but greatly prized.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Sapsago, Schabziger or Swiss Green Cheese</b></p>

    <p>The name Sapsago is a corruption of Schabziger, German for
    whey cheese. It's a hay cheese, flavored heavily with melilot,
    a kind of clover that's also grown for hay. It comes from
    Switzerland in a hard, truncated cone wrapped in a piece of
    paper that says:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>&nbsp; &nbsp; To be used grated only<br >
         &nbsp; &nbsp; Genuine Swiss Green Cheese<br >
         &nbsp; &nbsp; Made of skimmed milk and herbs</p>

        <p>To the housewives! Do you want a change in your meals?
        Try the contents of this wrapper! Delicious as spreading
        mixed with butter, excellent for flavoring eggs, macaroni,
        spaghetti, potatoes, soup, etc. Can be used in place of any
        other cheese. <i>Do not take too much, you might spoil the
        flavor</i>.</p>
    </div>

    <p>We put this wrapper among our papers, sealed it tight in an
    envelope, and to this day, six months later, the scent of
    Sapsago clings 'round it still.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Stilton</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p><i>Honor for Cheeses</i></p>

        <p>Literary and munching circles in London are putting
        quite a lot of thought into a proposed memorial to Stilton
        cheese. There is a Stilton Memorial Committee, with Sir
        John Squire at the head, and already the boys are
        fighting.</p>

        <p><!-- Page 35 --><a id="Page_35"></a> One side, led by Sir John, is all for
           a monument.</p>

        <p>This, presumably, would not be a replica of Stilton
        itself, although Mr. Epstein could probably hack out a
        pretty effective cheese-shaped figure and call it
        "Dolorosa."</p>

        <p>The monument-boosters plan a figure of Mrs. Paulet, who
        first introduced Stilton to England. (Possibly a group
        showing Mrs. Paulet holding a young Stilton by the hand and
        introducing it, while the Stilton curtsies.)</p>

        <p>T.S. Eliot does not think that anyone would look at a
        monument, but wants to establish a Foundation for the
        Preservation of Ancient Cheeses. The practicability of this
        plan would depend largely on the site selected for the
        treasure house and the cost of obtaining a curator who
        could, or would, give his whole time to the work.</p>

        <p>Mr. J.A. Symonds, who is secretary of the committee,
        agrees with Mr. Eliot that a simple statue is not the best
        form.</p>

        <p>"I should like," he says, "something
        irrelevant&mdash;gargoyles, perhaps."</p>

        <p>I think that Mr. Symonds has hit on something there.</p>

        <p>I would suggest, if we Americans can pitch into this
        great movement, some gargoyles designed by Mr. Rube
        Goldberg.</p>

        <p>If the memorial could be devised so as to take on an
        international scope, an exchange fellowship might be
        established between England and America, although the
        exchange, in the case of Stilton, would have to be all on
        England's side.</p>

        <p>We might be allowed to furnish the money, however, while
        England furnishes the cheese.</p>

        <p>There is a very good precedent for such a bargain
        between the two countries.</p>

        <p class="author">Robert Benchley, in<br >
         <i>After 1903&mdash;What?</i></p>
    </div>

    <p>When all seems lost in England there is still Stilton, an
    endless after-dinner conversation piece to which England points
    with pride. For a sound appreciation of this cheese see Clifton
    Fadiman's introduction to this book.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 36 --><a id="Page_36"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Taleggio and Bel Paese</b></p>

    <p>When the great Italian cheese-maker, Galbini, first exported
    Bel Paese some years ago, it was an eloquent ambassador to
    America. But as the years went on and imitations were made in
    many lands, Galbini deemed it wise to set up his own factory in
    <i>our</i> beautiful country. However, the domestic Bel Paese
    and a minute one-pounder called Bel Paesino just didn't have
    that old Alpine zest. They were no better than the German copy
    called Sch&ouml;nland, after the original, or the French Fleur
    des Alpes.</p>

    <p>Mel Fino was a blend of Bel Paese and Gorgonzola. It perked
    up the market for a full, fruity cheese with snap. Then Galbini
    hit the jackpot with his Taleggio that fills the need for the
    sharpest, most sophisticated pungence of them all.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Trappist, Port-Salut, or Port du Salut, and Oka</b></p>

    <p>In spite of its name Trappist is no rat-trap commoner.
    Always of the elect, and better known as Port-Salut or Port du
    Salut from the original home of the Trappist monks in their
    chief French abbey, it is also set apart from the ordinary
    Canadians under the name of Oka, from the Trappist monastery
    there. It is made by Trappist monks all over the world,
    according to the original secret formula, and by Trappist
    Cistercian monks at the Abbey of Gethsemani Trappist in
    Kentucky.</p>

    <p>This is a soft cheese, creamy and of superb flavor. You
    can't go wrong if you look for the monastery name stamped on,
    such as Harz&eacute; in Belgium, Mont-des-Cats in Flanders,
    Sainte Anne d'Auray in Brittany, and so forth.</p>

    <p>Last but not least, a commercial Port-Salut entirely without
    benefit of clergy or monastery is made in Milwaukee under the
    Lion Brand. It is one of the finest American cheeses in which
    we have ever sunk a fang.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p><!-- Page 37 --><a id="Page_37"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div>
        <img src="images/037.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 310px">
    </div>

    <div class="rightalign">
        <i>Chapter<br >
         Four</i>
    </div>

    <h2>Native Americans</h2>

    <p><b>American Cheddars</b></p>

    <p>The first American Cheddar was made soon after 1620 around
    Plymouth by Pilgrim fathers who brought along not only cheese
    from the homeland but a live cow to continue the supply. Proof
    of our ability to manufacture Cheddar of our own lies in the
    fact that by 1790 we were exporting it back to England.</p>

    <p>It was called Cheddar after the English original named for
    the village of Cheddar near Bristol. More than a century ago it
    made a new name for itself, Herkimer County cheese, from the
    section of New York State where it was first made best.
    Herkimer still equals its several distinguished competitors,
    Coon, Colorado Blackie, California Jack, Pineapple, Sage,
    Vermont Colby and Wisconsin Longhorn.</p>

    <p>The English called our imitation Yankee, or American,
    Cheddar, while <!-- Page 38 --><a id="Page_38"></a> here at home it was popularly known as
       yellow or store cheese from its prominent position in every
       country store; also apple-pie cheese because of its affinity
       for the all-American dessert.</p>

    <p>The first Cheddar factory was founded by Jesse Williams in
    Rome, New York, just over a century ago and, with Herkimer
    County Cheddar already widely known, this established "New
    York" as the preferred "store-boughten" cheese.</p>

    <p>An account of New York's cheese business in the pioneer
    Wooden Nutmeg Era is found in Ernest Elmo Calkins' interesting
    book, <i>They Broke the Prairies</i>. A Yankee named Silvanus
    Ferris, "the most successful dairyman of Herkimer County," in
    the first decades of the 1800's teamed up with Robert Nesbit,
    "the old Quaker Cheese Buyer." They bought from farmers in the
    region and sold in New York City. And "according to the
    business ethics of the times," Nesbit went ahead to cheapen the
    cheese offered by deprecating its quality, hinting at a bad
    market and departing without buying. Later when Ferris arrived
    in a more optimistic mood, offering a slightly better price,
    the seller, unaware they were partners, and ignorant of the
    market price, snapped up the offer.</p>

    <p>Similar sharp-trade tactics put too much green cheese on the
    market, so those honestly aged from a minimum of eight months
    up to two years fetched higher prices. They were called "old,"
    such as Old Herkimer, Old Wisconsin Longhorn, and Old
    California Jack.</p>

    <p>Although the established Cheddar ages are three, fresh,
    medium-cured, and cured or aged, commercially they are divided
    into two and described as mild and sharp. The most popular are
    named for their states: Colorado, Illinois, Kentucky, New York,
    Ohio, Vermont and Wisconsin. Two New York Staters are called
    and named separately, Coon and Herkimer County. Tillamook goes
    by its own name with no mention of Oregon. Pineapple, Monterey
    Jack and Sage are seldom listed as Cheddars at all, although
    they are basically that.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 39 --><a id="Page_39"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Brick</b></p>

    <p>Brick is the one and only cheese for which the whole world
    gives America credit. Runners-up are Liederkranz, which rivals
    say is too close to Limburger, and Pineapple, which is only a
    Cheddar under its crisscrossed, painted and flavored rind. Yet
    Brick is no more distinguished than either of the hundred
    percent Americans, and in our opinion is less worth bragging
    about.</p>

    <p>It is a medium-firm, mild-to-strong slicing cheese for
    sandwiches and melting in hot dishes. Its texture is elastic
    but not rubbery, its taste sweetish, and it is full of little
    round holes or eyes. All this has inspired enthusiasts to liken
    it to Emmentaler. The most appropriate name for it has long
    been "married man's Limburger." To make up for the mildness
    caraway seed is sometimes added.</p>

    <p>About Civil War time, John Jossi, a dairyman of Dodge
    County, Wisconsin, came up with this novelty, a rennet cheese
    made of whole cow's milk. The curd is cut like Cheddar, heated,
    stirred and cooked firm to put in a brick-shaped box without a
    bottom and with slits in the sides to drain. When this is set
    on the draining table a couple of bricks are also laid on the
    cooked curd for pressure. It is this double use of bricks, for
    shaping and for pressing, that has led to the confusion about
    which came first in originating the name.</p>

    <p>The formed "bricks" of cheese are rubbed with salt for three
    days and they ripen slowly, taking up to two months.</p>

    <p>We eat several million pounds a year and 95 percent of that
    comes from Wisconsin, with a trickle from New York.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Colorado Blackie Cheese</b></p>

    <p>A subtly different American Cheddar is putting Colorado on
    our cheese map. It is called Blackie from the black-waxed rind
    and it resembles Vermont State cheese, although it is flatter.
    This <!-- Page 40 --><a id="Page_40"></a>is a proud new American product, proving
       that although Papa Cheddar was born in England his American
       kinfolk have developed independent and valuable characters
       all on their own.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Coon Cheese</b></p>

    <p>Coon cheese is full of flavor from being aged on shelves at
    a higher temperature than cold storage. Its rind is darker from
    the growth of mold and this shade is sometimes painted on more
    ordinary Cheddars to make them look like Coon, which always
    brings a 10 percent premium above the general run.</p>

    <p>Made at Lowville, New York, it has received high praise from
    a host of admirers, among them the French cook, Clementine, in
    Phineas Beck's <i>Kitchen</i>, who raised it to the par of
    French immortals by calling it Fromage de Coon. Clementine used
    it "with scintillating success in countless French recipes
    which ended with the words <i>gratiner au four et servir tres
    chaud</i>. She made <i>baguettes</i> of it by soaking sticks
    three-eights-inch square and one and a half inches long in
    lukewarm milk, rolling them in flour, beaten egg and bread
    crumbs and browning them instantaneously in boiling oil."</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Herkimer County Cheese</b></p>

    <p>The standard method for making American Cheddar was
    established in Herkimer County, New York, in 1841 and has been
    rigidly maintained down to this day. Made with rennet and a
    bacterial "starter," the curd is cut and pressed to squeeze out
    all of the whey and then aged in cylindrical forms for a year
    or more.</p>

    <p>Herkimer leads the whole breed by being flaky, brittle,
    sharp and nutty, with a crumb that will crumble, and a soft,
    mouth-watering pale orange color when it is properly aged.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 41 --><a id="Page_41"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Isigny</b></p>

    <p>Isigny is a native American cheese that came a cropper. It
    seems to be extinct now, and perhaps that is all to the good,
    for it never meant to be anything more than another Camembert,
    of which we have plenty of imitation.</p>

    <p>Not long after the Civil War the attempt was made to perfect
    Isigny. The curd was carefully prepared according to an
    original formula, washed and rubbed and set aside to come of
    age. But when it did, alas, it was more like Limburger than
    Camembert, and since good domestic Limburger was then a dime a
    pound, obviously it wouldn't pay off. Yet in shape the newborn
    resembled Camembert, although it was much larger. So they cut
    it down and named it after the delicate French Creme
    d'lsigny.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Jack, California Jack and Monterey Jack</b></p>

    <p>Jack was first known as Monterey cheese from the California
    county where it originated. Then it was called Jack for short,
    and only now takes its full name after sixty years of
    popularity on the West Coast. Because it is little known in the
    East and has to be shipped so far, it commands the top Cheddar
    price.</p>

    <p>Monterey Jack is a stirred curd Cheddar without any annatto
    coloring. It is sweeter than most and milder when young, but it
    gets sharper with age and more expensive because of storage
    costs.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Liederkranz</b></p>

    <p>No native American cheese has been so widely ballyhooed, and
    so deservedly, as Liederkranz, which translates "Wreath of
    Song."</p>

    <p>Back in the gay, inventive nineties, Emil Frey, a young
    delicatessen <!-- Page 42 --><a id="Page_42"></a> keeper in New York, tried to please some
       bereft customers by making an imitation of Bismarck
       Schlossk&auml;se. This was imperative because the imported
       German cheese didn't stand up during the long sea trip and
       Emil's customers, mostly members of the famous Liederkranz
       singing society, didn't feel like singing without it. But
       Emil's attempts at imitation only added indigestion to their
       dejection, until one day&mdash;<i>fabelhaft!</i> One of
       those cheese dream castles in Spain came true. He turned out
       a tawny, altogether golden, tangy and mellow little marvel
       that actually was an improvement on Bismarck's old
       Schlossk&auml;se. Better than Brick, it was a deodorized
       Limburger, both a man's cheese and one that cheese-conscious
       women adored.</p>

    <p>Emil named it "Wreath of Song" for the Liederkranz
    customers. It soon became as internationally known as tabasco
    from Texas or Parisian Camembert which it slightly resembles.
    Borden's bought out Frey in 1929 and they enjoy telling the
    story of a G.I. who, to celebrate V-E Day in Paris, sent to his
    family in Indiana, only a few miles from the factory at Van
    Wert, Ohio, a whole case of what he had learned was "the finest
    cheese France could make." And when the family opened it, there
    was Liederkranz.</p>

    <p>Another deserved distinction is that of being sandwiched in
    between two foreign immortals in the following recipe:</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Schnitzelbank Pot</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 ripe Camembert cheese<br >
         1 Liederkranz<br >
         &#8539; pound imported Roquefort<br >
         &frac14; pound butter<br >
         1 tablespoon flour<br >
         1 cup cream<br >
         &frac12; cup finely chopped olives<br >
         &frac14; cup canned pimiento<br >
         A sprinkling of cayenne</p>

        <p>Depending on whether or not you like the edible rind of
        Camembert and Liederkranz, you can leave it on, scrape any
        thick part off, or remove it all. Mash the soft creams
        together with the Roquefort, butter and flour, using a
        silver fork. Put the mix into
        <!-- Page 43 --><a id="Page_43"></a> an enameled pan, for anything with a
           metal surface will turn the cheese black in cooking.</p>

        <p>Stir in the cream and keep stirring until you have a
        smooth, creamy sauce. Strain through sieve or cheesecloth,
        and mix in the olives and pimiento thoroughly. Sprinkle
        well with cayenne and put into a pot to mellow for a few
        days, or much longer.</p>
    </div>

    <p>The name <i>Schnitzelbank</i> comes from "school bench," a
    game. This snappy-sweet pot is specially suited to a beer party
    and stein songs. It is also the affinity-spread with rye and
    pumpernickel, and may be served in small sandwiches or on
    crackers, celery and such, to make appetizing tidbits for
    cocktails, tea, or cider.</p>

    <p>Like the trinity of cheeses that make it, the mixture is
    eaten best at room temperature, when its flavor is fullest. If
    kept in the refrigerator, it should be taken out a couple of
    hours before serving. Since it is a natural cheese mixture,
    which has gone through no process or doping with preservative,
    it will not keep more than two weeks. This mellow-sharp mix is
    the sort of ideal the factory processors shoot at with their
    olive-pimiento abominations. Once you've potted your own,
    you'll find it gives the same thrill as garnishing your own
    Liptauer.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Minnesota Blue</b></p>

    <p>The discovery of sandstone caves in the bluffs along the
    Mississippi, in and near the Twin Cities of Minnesota, has
    established a distinctive type of Blue cheese named for the
    state. Although the Roquefort process of France is followed and
    the cheese is inoculated in the same way by mold from bread, it
    can never equal the genuine imported, marked with its red-sheep
    brand, because the milk used in Minnesota Blue is cow's milk,
    and the caves are sandstone instead of limestone. Yet this is
    an excellent, Blue cheese in its own right.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 44 --><a id="Page_44"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Pineapple</b></p>

    <p>Pineapple cheese is named after its shape rather than its
    flavor, although there are rumors that some pineapple flavor is
    noticeable near the oiled rind. This flavor does not penetrate
    through to the Cheddar center. Many makers of processed cheese
    have tampered with the original, so today you can't be sure of
    anything except getting a smaller size every year or two, at a
    higher price. Originally six pounds, the Pineapple has shrunk
    to nearly six ounces. The proper bright-orange, oiled and
    shellacked surface is more apt to be a sickly lemon.</p>

    <p>Always an ornamental cheese, it once stood in state on the
    side-board under a silver bell also made to represent a
    pineapple. You cut a top slice off the cheese, just as you
    would off the fruit, and there was a rose-colored,
    fine-tasting, mellow-hard cheese to spoon out with a special
    silver cheese spoon or scoop. Between meals the silver top was
    put on the silver holder and the oiled and shellacked rind kept
    the cheese moist. Even when the Pineapple was eaten down to the
    rind the shell served as a dunking bowl to fill with some
    salubrious cold Fondue or salad.</p>

    <p>Made in the same manner as Cheddar with the curd cooked
    harder, Pineapple's distinction lies in being hung in a net
    that makes diamond-shaped corrugations on the surface,
    simulating the sections of the fruit. It is a pioneer American
    product with almost a century and a half of service since Lewis
    M. Norton conceived it in 1808 in Litchfield County,
    Connecticut. There in 1845 he built a factory and made a
    deserved fortune out of his decorative ingenuity with what
    before had been plain, unromantic yellow or store cheese.</p>

    <p>Perhaps his inspiration came from cone-shaped Cheshire in
    old England, also called Pineapple cheese, combined with the
    hanging up of Provolones in Italy that leaves the looser
    pattern of the four sustaining strings.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 45 --><a id="Page_45"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Sage, Vermont Sage and Vermont State</b></p>

    <p>The story of Sage cheese, or green cheese as it was called
    originally, shows the several phases most cheeses have gone
    through, from their simple, honest beginnings to
    commercialization, and sometimes back to the real thing.</p>

    <p>The English <i>Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery</i> has an
    early Sage recipe:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>This is a species of cream cheese made by adding sage
        leaves and greening to the milk. A very good receipt for it
        is given thus: Bruise the tops of fresh young red sage
        leaves with an equal quantity of spinach leaves and squeeze
        out the juice. Add this to the extract of rennet and stir
        into the milk as much as your taste may deem sufficient.
        Break the curd when it comes, salt it, fill the vat high
        with it, press for a few hours, and then turn the cheese
        every day.</p>
    </div>

    <p><i>Fancy Cheese in America, lay</i> Charles A. Publow,
    records the commercialization of the cheese mentioned above, a
    century or two later, in 1910:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Sage cheese is another modified form of the Cheddar
        variety. Its distinguishing features are a mottled green
        color and a sage flavor. The usual method of manufacture is
        as follows: One-third of the total amount of milk is placed
        in a vat by itself and colored green by the addition of
        eight to twelve ounces of commercial sage color to each
        1,000 pounds of milk. If green corn leaves (unavailable in
        England) or other substances are used for coloring, the
        amounts will vary accordingly. The milk is then made up by
        the regular Cheddar method, as is also the remaining
        two-thirds, in a separate vat. At the time of removing the
        whey the green and white curds are mixed. Some prefer,
        however, to mix the curds at the time of milling, as a more
        distinct color is secured. After milling, the sage extract
        flavoring is sprayed over the curd with an atomizer. The
        curd is then <!-- Page 46 --><a id="Page_46"></a>salted and pressed into the regular
           Cheddar shapes and sizes.</p>

        <p>A very satisfactory Sage cheese is made at the New York
        State College of Agriculture by simply dropping green
        coloring, made from the leaves of corn and spinach, upon
        the curd, after milling. An even green mottling is thus
        easily secured without additional labor. Sage flavoring
        extract is sprayed over the curd by an atomizer. One-half
        ounce of flavoring is usually sufficient for a hundred
        pounds of curd and can be secured from dairy supply
        houses.</p>
    </div>

    <p>A modern cheese authority reported on the current (1953)
    method:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Instead of sage leaves, or tea prepared from them, at
        present the cheese is flavored with oil of Dalmatian wild
        sage because it has the sharpest flavor. This piny oil,
        thujone, is diluted with water, 250 parts to one, and
        either added to the milk or sprayed over the curds,
        one-eighth ounce for 500 quarts of milk.</p>
    </div>

    <p>In scouting around for a possible maker of the real thing
    today, we wrote to Vrest Orton of Vermont, and got this
    reply:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Sage cheese is one of the really indigenous and best
        native Vermont products. So far as I know, there is only
        one factory making it and that is my friend, George
        Crowley's. He makes a limited amount for my Vermont Country
        Store. It is the fine old-time full cream cheese, flavored
        with real sage.</p>

        <p>On this hangs a tale. Some years ago I couldn't get
        enough sage cheese (we never can) so I asked a Wisconsin
        cheesemaker if he would make some. Said he would but
        couldn't at that time&mdash;because the alfalfa wasn't
        ripe. I said, "What in hell has alfalfa got to do with sage
        cheese?" He said, "Well, we flavor the sage cheese with a
        synthetic sage flavor and then throw in some pieces of
        chopped-up alfalfa to make it look green."</p>

        <p>So I said to hell with that and the next time I saw
        George Crowley I told him the story and George said, "We
        don't use synthetic flavor, alfalfa or anything like
        that."</p>

        <p>"<!-- Page 47 --><a id="Page_47"></a> Then what do you use, George?" I
           inquired.</p>

        <p>"We use real sage."</p>

        <p>"Why?"</p>

        <p>"Well, because it's cheaper than that synthetic
        stuff."</p>
    </div>

    <p>The genuine Vermont Sage arrived. Here are our notes on
    it:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Oh, wilderness were Paradise enow! My taste buds come to
        full flower with the Sage. There's a slight burned savor
        recalling smoked cheese, although not related in any way.
        Mildly resinous like that Near East one packed in pine,
        suggesting the well-saged dressing of a turkey. A round
        mouthful of luscious mellowness, with a bouquet&mdash;a
        snapping reminder to the nose. And there's just a
        soup&ccedil;on of new-mown hay above the green freckles of
        herb to delight the eye and set the fancy free. So this is
        the <i>v&eacute;ritable vert</i>, green cheese&mdash;the
        moon is made of it! <i>Vert v&eacute;ritable.</i> A general
        favorite with everybody who ever tasted it, for generations
        of lusty crumblers.</p>
    </div>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Old-Fashioned Vermont State Store Cheese</b></p>

    <p>We received from savant Vrest Orton another letter, together
    with some Vermont store cheese and some crackers.</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>This cheese is our regular old-fashioned store
        cheese&mdash;it's been in old country stores for
        generations and we have been pioneers in spreading the word
        about it. It is, of course, a natural aged cheese, no
        processing, no fussing, no fooling with it. It's made the
        same way it was back in 1870, by the old-time Colby method
        which makes a cheese which is not so dry as Cheddar and
        also has holes in it, something like Swiss. Also, it ages
        faster.</p>

        <p>Did you know that during the last part of the nineteenth
        century and part of the twentieth, Vermont was the leading
        cheesemaking state in the Union? When I was a lad, every
        town in Vermont had one or more cheese factories. Now there
        are only two left&mdash;not counting any that make process.
        Process isn't cheese!</p>

        <p><!-- Page 48 --><a id="Page_48"></a> The crackers are the old-time store
           cracker&mdash;every Vermonter used to buy a big barrel
           once a year to set in the buttery and eat. A classic
           dish is crackers, broken up in a bowl of cold milk, with
           a hunk of Vermont cheese like this on the side. Grand
           snack, grand midnight supper, grand anything. These
           crackers are not sweet, not salt, and as such make a
           good base for anything&mdash;swell with clam chowder,
           also with toasted cheese....</p>
    </div>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Tillamook</b></p>

    <p>It takes two pocket-sized, but thick, yellow volumes to
    record the story of Oregon's great Tillamook. <i>The Cheddar
    Box</i>, by Dean Collins, comes neatly boxed and bound in
    golden cloth stamped with a purple title, like the rind of a
    real Tillamook. Volume I is entitled <i>Cheese Cheddar</i>, and
    Volume II is a two-pound Cheddar cheese labeled Tillamook and
    molded to fit inside its book jacket. We borrowed Volume I from
    a noted <i>litt&eacute;rateur</i>, and never could get him to
    come across with Volume II. We guessed its fate, however, from
    a note on the flyleaf of the only tome available: "This is an
    excellent cheese, full cream and medium sharp, and a unique set
    of books in which Volume II suggests Bacon's: 'Some books are
    to be tasted, others to be swallowed, and some few to be chewed
    and digested.'"</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p><b>Wisconsin Longhorn</b></p>

    <p>Since we began this chapter with all-American Cheddars, it
    is only fitting to end with Wisconsin Longhorn, a sort of
    national standard, even though it's not nearly so fancy or
    high-priced as some of the regional natives that can't approach
    its enormous output. It's one of those all-purpose round
    cheeses that even taste round in your mouth. We are specially
    partial to it.</p>

    <p>Most Cheddars are named after their states. Yet, putting all
    of <!-- Page 49 --><a id="Page_49"></a>these thirty-seven states together, they
       produce only about half as much as Wisconsin alone.</p>

    <p>Besides Longhorn, in Wisconsin there are a dozen regional
    competitors ranging from White Twin Cheddar, to which no
    annatto coloring has been added, through Green Bay cheese to
    Wisconsin Redskin and Martha Washington Aged, proudly set forth
    by P.H. Kasper of Bear Creek, who is said to have "won more
    prizes in forty years than any ten cheesemakers put
    together."</p>

    <p>To help guarantee a market for all this excellent apple-pie
    cheese, the Wisconsin State Legislature made a law about it,
    recognizing the truth of Eugene Field's jingle:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>Apple pie without cheese<br ></span> <span>Is
            like a kiss without a squeeze.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>Small matter in the Badger State when the affinity is made
    legal and the couple lawfully wedded in Statute No. 160,065.
    It's still in force:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p><i>Butter and cheese to be served.</i> Every person,
        firm or corporation duly licensed to operate a hotel or
        restaurant shall serve with each meal for which a charge of
        twenty-five cents or more is made, at least two-thirds of
        an ounce of Wisconsin butter and two-thirds of an ounce of
        Wisconsin cheese.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Besides Longhorn, Wisconsin leads in Limburger. It produces
    so much Swiss that the state is sometimes called
    Swissconsin.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p><!-- Page 50 --><a id="Page_50"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div>
        <img src="images/050.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 340px; height: 350px">
    </div>

    <div class="rightalign">
        <i>Chapter<br >
         Five</i>
    </div>

    <h2>Sixty-five Sizzling Rabbits</h2>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>That nice little smoky room at the "Salutation," which
        is even now continually presenting itself to my
        recollection, with all its associated train of pipes,
        egg-hot, welsh-rabbits, metaphysics and poetry.</p>

        <p class="author">Charles Lamb,<br >
         IN A LETTER TO COLERIDGE</p>
    </div>

    <p>Unlike the beginning of the classical Jugged Hare recipe:
    "First catch your hare!" we modern Rabbit-hunters start off
    with "First catch your Cheddar!" And some of us go so far as to
    smuggle in formerly forbidden <i>fromages</i> such as
    Gruy&egrave;re, Neufch&acirc;tel, Parmesan, and mixtures
    thereof. We run the gamut <!-- Page 51 --><a id="Page_51"></a> of personal preferences in selecting the
       Rabbit cheese itself, from old-time American, yellow or
       store cheese, to Coon and Canadian-smoked, though all of it
       is still Cheddar, no matter how you slice it.</p>

    <p>Then, too, guests are made to run the gauntlet of
    all-American trimmings from pin-money pickles to peanut butter,
    succotash and maybe marshmallows; we add mustard, chill, curry,
    tabasco and sundry bottled red devils from the grocery store,
    to add pep and piquance to the traditional cayenne and black
    pepper. This results in Rabbits that are out of focus, out of
    order and out of this world.</p>

    <p>Among modern sins of omission, the Worcestershire sauce is
    left out by braggarts who aver that they can take it or leave
    it. And, in these degenerate days, when it comes to
    substitutions for the original beer or stale pale ale, we find
    the gratings of great Cheddars wet down with mere California
    sherry or even ginger ale&mdash;yet so far, thank goodness, no
    Cokes. And there's tomato juice out of a can into the Rum Turn
    Tiddy, and sometimes celery soup in place of milk or cream.</p>

    <p>In view of all this, we can only look to the standard
    cookbooks for salvation. These are mostly compiled by women,
    our thoughtful mothers, wives and sweethearts who have saved
    the twin Basic Rabbits for us. If it weren't for these Fanny
    Farmers, the making of a real aboriginal Welsh Rabbit would be
    a lost art&mdash;lost in sporting male attempts to improve upon
    the original.</p>

    <p>The girls are still polite about the whole thing and
    protectively pervert the original spelling of "Rabbit" to
    "Rarebit" in their culinary guides. We have heard that once a
    club of ladies in high society tried to high-pressure the
    publishers of Mr. Webster's dictionary to change the old
    spelling in their favor. Yet there is a lot to be said for this
    more genteel and appetizing rendering of the word, for the
    Welsh masterpiece is, after all, a very rare bit of
    cheesemongery, male or female.</p>

    <p>Yet in dealing with "Rarebits" the distaff side seldom sets
    down more than the basic Adam and Eve in a whole Paradise of
    Rabbits: No. 1, <!-- Page 52 --><a id="Page_52"></a> the wild male type made with beer, and No.
       2, the mild female made with milk. Yet now that the chafing
       dish has come back to stay, there's a flurry in the Rabbit
       warren and the new cooking encyclopedias give up to a dozen
       variants. Actually there are easily half a gross of valid
       ones in current esteem.</p>

    <p>The two basic recipes are differentiated by the liquid
    ingredient, but both the beer and the milk are used only one
    way&mdash;warm, or anyway at room temperature. And again for
    the two, there is but one traditional cheese&mdash;Cheddar,
    ripe, old or merely aged from six months onward. This is also
    called American, store, sharp, Rabbit, yellow, beer, Wisconsin
    Longhorn, mouse, and even rat.</p>

    <p>The seasoned, sapid Cheddar-type, so indispensable, includes
    dozens of varieties under different names, regional or
    commercial. These are easily identified as
    sisters-under-the-rinds by all five senses:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p><b>sight:</b> Golden yellow and mellow to the eye. It's
        one of those round cheeses that also tastes round in the
        mouth.</p>

        <p><b>hearing:</b> By thumping, a cheese-fancier, like a
        melon-picker, can tell if a Cheddar is rich, ripe and ready
        for the Rabbit. When you hear your dealer say, "It's six
        months old or more," enough said.</p>

        <p><b>smell:</b> A scent as fresh as that of the daisies
        and herbs the mother milk cow munched "will hang round it
        still." Also a slight beery savor.</p>

        <p><b>touch:</b> Crumbly&mdash;a caress to the fingers.</p>

        <p><b>taste:</b> The quintessence of this fivefold test.
        Just cuddle a crumb with your tongue and if it tickles the
        taste buds it's prime. When it melts in your mouth, that's
        proof it will melt in the pan.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Beyond all this (and in spite of the school that plumps for
    the No. 2 temperance alternative) we must point out that beer
    has a <!-- Page 53 --><a id="Page_53"></a>special affinity for Cheddar. The French
       have clearly established this in their names for Welsh
       Rabbit, <i>Fromage Fondue &agrave; la Bi&egrave;re</i> and
       <i>Fondue &agrave; l'Anglaise</i>.</p>

    <p>To prepare such a cheese for the pan, each Rabbit hound may
    have a preference all his own, for here the question comes up
    of how it melts best. Do you shave, slice, dice, shred, mince,
    chop, cut, scrape or crumble it in the fingers? This will vary
    according to one's temperament and the condition of the cheese.
    Generally, for best results it is coarsely grated. When it
    comes to making all this into a rare bit of Rabbit there
    is:</p>

    <p><b>The One and Only Method</b></p>

    <p>Use a double boiler, or preferably a chafing dish, avoiding
    aluminum and other soft metals. Heat the upper pan by simmering
    water in the lower one, but don't let the water boil up or
    touch the top pan.</p>

    <p>Most, but not all, Rabbits are begun by heating a bit of
    butter or margarine in the pan in which one cup of roughly
    grated cheese, usually sharp Cheddar, is melted and mixed with
    one-half cup of liquid, added gradually. (The butter isn't
    necessary for a cheese that should melt by itself.)</p>

    <p>The two principal ingredients are melted smoothly together
    and kept from curdling by stirring steadily in one direction
    only, over an even heat. The spoon used should be of hard wood,
    sterling silver or porcelain. Never use tin, aluminum or soft
    metal&mdash;the taste may come off to taint the job.</p>

    <p>Be sure the liquid is at room temperature, or warmer, and
    add it gradually, without interrupting the stirring. Do not let
    it come to the bubbling point, and never let it boil.</p>

    <p>Add seasonings only when the cheese is melted, which will
    take two or three minutes. Then continue to stir in the same
    direction without an instant's letup, for maybe ten minutes or
    more, until the Rabbit is smooth. The consistency and velvety
    <!-- Page 54 --><a id="Page_54"></a>smoothness depend a good deal on whether or
       not an egg, or a beaten yolk, is added.</p>

    <p>The hotter the Rabbit is served, the better. You can sizzle
    the top with a salamander or other branding iron, but in any
    case set it forth as nearly sizzling as possible, on toast
    hellishly hot, whether it's browned or buttered on one side or
    both.</p>

    <p>Give a thought to the sad case of the "little dog whose name
    was Rover, and when he was dead he was dead all over."
    Something very similar happens with a Rabbit that's allowed to
    cool down&mdash;when it's cold it's cold all over, and you
    can't resuscitate it by heating.</p>

    <div class="cats">
        BASIC WELSH RABBIT
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>No. 1 (with beer)</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 tablespoons butter<br >
         3 cups grated old Cheddar<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon English dry mustard<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon salt<br >
         A dash of cayenne<br >
         1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br >
         2 egg yolks, lightly beaten with<br >
         &frac12; cup light beer or ale<br >
         4 slices hot buttered toast</p>

        <p>Over boiling water melt butter and cheese together,
        stirring steadily with a wooden (or other tasteless) spoon
        in one direction only. Add seasonings and do not interrupt
        your rhythmic stirring, as you pour in a bit at a time of
        the beer-and-egg mixture until it's all used up.</p>

        <p>It may take many minutes of constant stirring to achieve
        the essential creamy thickness and then some more to slick
        it out as smooth as velvet.</p>

        <p>Keep it piping hot but don't let it bubble, for a boiled
        Rabbit is a spoiled Rabbit. Only unremitting stirring (and
        the best of cheese) will keep it from curdling, getting
        stringy or rubbery. <!-- Page 55 --><a id="Page_55"></a> Pour the Rabbit generously over crisp,
           freshly buttered toast and serve instantly on hot
           plates.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Usually crusts are cut off the bread before toasting, and
    some aesthetes toast one side only, spreading the toasted side
    with cold butter for taste contrast. Lay the toast on the hot
    plate, buttered side down, and pour the Rabbit over the porous
    untoasted side so it can soak in. (This is recommended in Lady
    Llanover's recipe, which appears on page 52 of this book.)</p>

    <p>Although the original bread for Rabbit toast was white,
    there is now no limit in choice among whole wheat, graham,
    rolls, muffins, buns, croutons and crackers, to infinity.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>No. 2 (with milk)</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>For a rich milk Rabbit use &frac12; cup thin cream,
        evaporated milk,<br >
         whole milk or buttermilk, instead of beer as in No. 1.
        Then, to<br >
         keep everything bland, cut down the mustard by half or
        leave<br >
         it out, and use paprika in place of cayenne. As in No. 1,
        the<br >
         use of Worcestershire sauce is optional, although our
        feeling is<br >
         that any spirited Rabbit would resent its being left
        out.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Either of these basic recipes can be made without eggs, and
    more cheaply, although the beaten egg is a guarantee against
    stringiness. When the egg is missing, we are sad to record that
    a teaspoon or so of cornstarch generally takes its place.</p>

    <p>Rabbiteers are of two minds about fast and slow heating and
    stirring, so you'll have to adjust that to your own experience
    and rhythm. As a rule, the heat is reduced when the cheese is
    almost melted, and speed of stirring slows when the eggs and
    last ingredients go in.</p>

    <p>Many moderns who have found that monosodium glutamate steps
    up the flavor of natural cheese, put it in at the start, using
    one-half teaspoon for each cup of grated Cheddar. When it comes
    to pepper you are fancy-free. As both black and white
    <!-- Page 56 --><a id="Page_56"></a>pepper are now held in almost equal esteem,
       you might equip your hutch with twin hand-mills to do the
       grinding fresh, for this is always worth the trouble.
       Tabasco sauce is little used and needs a cautious hand, but
       some addicts can't leave it out any more than they can swear
       off the Worcestershire.</p>

    <p>The school that plumps for malty Rabbits and the other that
    goes for milky ones are equally emphatic in their choice. So
    let us consider the compromise of our old friend Frederick
    Philip Stieff, the Baltimore <i>homme de bouche</i>, as he set
    it forth for us years ago in <i>10,000 Snacks</i>: "The idea of
    cooking a Rabbit with beer is an exploded and dangerous theory.
    Tap your keg or open your case of ale or beer and serve
    <i>with</i>, not in your Rabbit."</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>The Stieff
         Recipe</b>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; BASIC MILK RABBIT</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>(<i>completely surrounded by a lake of malt
        beverages</i>)</p>

        <p>2 cups grated sharp cheese<br >
         3 heaping tablespoons butter<br >
         1&frac12; cups milk<br >
         4 eggs<br >
         1 heaping tablespoon mustard<br >
         2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce<br >
         Pepper, salt and paprika to taste&mdash;then add more of
        each.</p>

        <p>Grease well with butter the interior of your double
        boiler so that no hard particles of cheese will form in the
        mixture later and contribute undesirable lumps.</p>

        <p>Put cheese, well-grated, into the double boiler and add
        butter and milk. From this point vigorous stirring should
        be indulged in until Rabbit is ready for serving.</p>

        <p>Prepare a mixture of Worcestershire sauce, mustard,
        pepper, salt and paprika. These should be beaten until
        light and then slowly poured into the double boiler.
        Nothing now remains to be done except to stir and cook down
        to proper consistency over a fairly slow flame. The finale
        has not arrived until you can drip the rabbit from the
        spoon and spell the word <i>finis</i> on the surface.
        <!-- Page 57 --><a id="Page_57"></a> Pour over two pieces of toast per
           plate and send anyone home who does not attack it at
           once.</p>

        <p>This is sufficient for six gourmets or four
        gourmands.</p>
    </div>

    <p><i>Nota bene</i>: A Welsh Rabbit, to be a success, should
    never be of the consistency whereby it may be used to tie up
    bundles, nor yet should it bounce if inadvertently dropped on
    the kitchen floor.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Lady Llanover's Toasted Welsh
         Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Cut a slice of the real Welsh cheese made of sheep's and
        cow's milk; toast it at the fire on both sides, but not so
        much as to drop (melt). Toast on one side a piece of bread
        less than &frac14; inch thick, to be quite crisp, and
        spread it very thinly with fresh, cold butter on the
        toasted side. (It must not be saturated.) Lay the toasted
        cheese upon the untoasted bread side and serve immediately
        on a very hot plate. The butter on the toast can, of
        course, be omitted. (It is more frequently eaten without
        butter.)</p>
    </div>

    <p>From this original toasting of the cheese many Englishmen
    still call Welsh Rabbit "Toasted Cheese," but Lady Llanover
    goes on to point out that the Toasted Rabbit of her Wales and
    the Melted or Stewed Buck Rabbit of England (which has become
    our American standard) are as different in the making as the
    regional cheeses used in them, and she says that while doctors
    prescribed the toasted Welsh as salubrious for invalids, the
    stewed cheese of Olde England was "only adapted to strong
    digestions."</p>

    <p>English literature rings with praise for the toasted cheese
    of Wales and England. There is Christopher North's eloquent
    "threads of unbeaten gold, shining like gossamer filaments
    (that may be pulled from its tough and tenacious
    substance)."</p>

    <p>Yet not all of the references are complimentary.</p>

    <p>Thus Shakespeare in <i>King Lear</i>:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <!-- Page 58 --><a id="Page_58"></a> <span>Look, look a
                 mouse!<br ></span> <span>Peace, peace;&mdash;this
                 piece of toasted cheese will do it.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>And Sydney Smith's:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Old friendships are destroyed by toasted cheese, and
        hard salted meat has led to suicide.</p>
    </div>

    <p>But Rhys Davis in <i>My Wales</i> makes up for such
    rudenesses:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p><i>The Welsh Enter Heaven</i></p>

        <p>The Lord had been complaining to St. Peter of the dearth
        of good singers in Heaven. "Yet," He said testily, "I hear
        excellent singing outside the walls. Why are not those
        singers here with me?"</p>

        <p>St. Peter said, "They are the Welsh. They refuse to come
        in; they say they are happy enough outside, playing with a
        ball and boxing and singing such songs as '<i>Suspan
        Fach</i>.'"</p>

        <p>The Lord said, "I wish them to come in here to sing Bach
        and Mendelssohn. See that they are in before sundown."</p>

        <p>St. Peter went to the Welsh and gave them the commands
        of the Lord. But still they shook their heads. Harassed,
        St. Peter went to consult with St. David, who, with a
        smile, was reading the works of Caradoc Evans.</p>

        <p>St. David said, "Try toasted cheese. Build a fire just
        inside the gates and get a few angels to toast cheese in
        front of it" This St. Peter did. The heavenly aroma of the
        sizzling, browning cheese was wafted over the walls and,
        with loud shouts, a great concourse of the Welsh came
        sprinting in. When sufficient were inside to make up a male
        voice choir of a hundred, St Peter slammed the gates.
        However, it is said that these are the only Welsh in
        Heaven.</p>
    </div>

    <p>And, lest we forget, the wonderful drink that made Alice
    grow and grow to the ceiling of Wonderland contained not only
    strawberry jam but toasted cheese.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 59 --><a id="Page_59"></a> Then there's the frightening nursery
       rhyme:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>The Irishman loved usquebaugh,<br ></span>
            <span class="i2">The Scot loved ale called
            Bluecap.<br ></span> <span>The Welshman, he loved
            toasted cheese,<br ></span> <span class="i2">And made
            his mouth like a mousetrap.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>The Irishman was drowned in
            usquebaugh,<br ></span> <span class="i2">The Scot was
            drowned in ale,<br ></span> <span>The Welshman he near
            swallowed a mouse<br ></span> <span class="i2">But he
            pulled it out by the tail.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>And, perhaps worst of all, Shakespeare, no cheese-lover,
    this tune in <i>Merry Wives of Windsor</i>:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>'Tis time I were choked by a bit of toasted
            cheese.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>An elaboration of the simple Welsh original went English
    with Dr. William Maginn, the London journalist whose facile pen
    enlivened the <i>Blackwoods Magazine</i> era with <i>Ten
    Tales</i>:</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Dr. Maginn's Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Much is to be said in favor of toasted cheese for
        supper. It is the cant to say that Welsh rabbit is heavy
        eating. I like it best in the genuine Welsh way,
        however&mdash;that is, the toasted bread buttered on both
        sides profusely, then a layer of cold roast beef with
        mustard and horseradish, and then, on the top of all, the
        superstratum, of Cheshire <i>thoroughly</i> saturated,
        while, in the process of toasting, with genuine porter,
        black pepper, and shallot vinegar. I peril myself upon the
        assertion that this is not a heavy supper for a man who has
        been busy all day till dinner in reading, writing, walking
        or riding&mdash;who has occupied himself between dinner and
        supper in the discussion of a bottle or two of sound wine,
        or any equivalent&mdash;and who proposes to swallow at
        least three tumblers of something hot ere he resigns
        himself to the embrace of Somnus. With these provisos, I
        recommend toasted cheese for supper.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 60 --><a id="Page_60"></a> The popularity of this has come down to us
       in the succinct summing-up, "Toasted cheese hath no
       master."</p>

    <p>The Welsh original became simple after Dr. Maginn's supper
    sandwich was served, a century and a half ago; for it was
    served as a savory to sum up and help digest a dinner, in this
    form:</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>After-Dinner Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Remove all crusts from bread slices, toast on both sides
        and soak to saturation in hot beer. Melt thin slices of
        sharp old cheese in butter in an iron skillet, with an
        added spot of beer and dry English mustard. Stir steadily
        with a wooden spoon and, when velvety, serve a-sizzle on
        piping hot beer-soaked toast.</p>
    </div>

    <p>While toasted cheese undoubtedly was the Number One dairy
    dish of Anglo-Saxons, stewed cheese came along to rival it in
    Elizabethan London. This sophisticated, big-city dish, also
    called a Buck Rabbit, was the making of Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
    on Fleet Street, where Dr. Johnson later presided. And it must
    have been the pick of the town back in the days when barrooms
    still had sawdust on the floor, for the learned Doctor endorsed
    old Omar Khayyam's love of the pub with: "There is nothing
    which has been contrived by man by which so much happiness is
    produced as by a good tavern." Yet he was no gourmet, as may be
    judged by his likening of a succulent, golden-fried oyster to
    "a baby's ear dropped in sawdust."</p>

    <p>Perhaps it is just as well that no description of the
    world's first Golden Buck has come down from him. But we don't
    have to look far for on-the-spot pen pictures by other men of
    letters at "The Cheese," as it was affectionately called. To a
    man they sang praises for that piping hot dish of preserved and
    beatified milk.</p>

    <p>Inspired by stewed cheese, Mark Lemon, the leading rhymester
    of <i>Punch</i>, wrote the following poem and dedicated it to
    the memory of Lovelace:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <!-- Page 61 --><a id="Page_61"></a> <span>Champagne will not a
                 dinner make,<br ></span> <span class="i2">Nor
                 caviar a meal<br ></span> <span>Men gluttonous
                 and rich may take<br ></span>
                 <span class="i2">Those till they make them
                 ill<br ></span> <span class="i4">If I've potatoes
                 to my chop,<br ></span> <span class="i4">And
                 after chop have cheese,<br ></span>
                 <span class="i4">Angels in Pond and Spiers's
                 shop<br ></span> <span class="i4">Know no such
                 luxuries.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>All that's necessary is an old-time "cheese stewer" or a
    reasonable substitute. The base of this is what was once
    quaintly called a "hot-water bath." This was a sort of
    miniature wash boiler just big enough to fit in snugly half a
    dozen individual tins, made squarish and standing high enough
    above the bath water to keep any of it from getting into the
    stew. In these tins the cheese is melted. But since such a
    tinsmith's contraption is hard to come by in these days of
    fireproof cooking glass, we suggest muffin tins, ramekins or
    even small cups to crowd into the bottom of your double boiler
    or chafing dish. But beyond this we plump for a revival of the
    "cheese stewer" in stainless steel, silver or glass.</p>

    <p>In the ritual at "The Cheese," these dishes, brimming over,
    "bubbling and blistering with the stew," followed a pudding
    that's still famous. Although down the centuries the recipe has
    been kept secret, the identifiable ingredients have been
    itemized as follows: "Tender steak, savory oyster, seductive
    kidney, fascinating lark, rich gravy, ardent pepper and
    delicate paste"&mdash;not to mention mushrooms. And after the
    second or third helping of pudding, with a pint of stout,
    bitter, or the mildest and mellowest brown October Ale in a
    dented pewter pot, "the stewed Cheshire cheese."</p>

    <p>Cheese was the one and only other course prescribed by
    tradition and appetite from the time when Charles II aled and
    regaled Nell Gwyn at "The Cheese," where Shakespeare is said to
    have sampled this "kind of a glorified Welsh Rarebit, served
    piping hot in the square shallow tins in which it is cooked and
    garnished with sippets of delicately colored toast."</p>

    <p><!-- Page 62 --><a id="Page_62"></a> Among early records is this report of
       Addison's in <i>The Spectator</i> of September 25,1711:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>They yawn for a Cheshire cheese, and begin about
        midnight, when the whole company is disposed to be drowsy.
        He that yawns widest, and at the same time so naturally as
        to produce the most yawns amongst his spectators, carries
        home the cheese.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Only a short time later, in 1725, the proprietor of
    Simpson's in the Strand inaugurated a daily guessing contest
    that drew crowds to his fashionable eating and drinking place.
    He would set forth a huge portion of cheese and wager champagne
    and cigars for the house that no one present could correctly
    estimate the weight, height and girth of it.</p>

    <p>As late as 1795, when Boswell was accompanying Dr. Johnson
    to "The Cheese," records of St. Dunstan's Club, which also met
    there, showed that the current price of a Buck Rabbit was
    tuppence, and that this was also the amount of the usual
    tip.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Ye Original Recipe</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1&frac12; ounces butter<br >
         1 cup cream<br >
         1&frac12; cups grated Cheshire cheese (more pungent,
        snappier, richer,<br >
         and more brightly colored than its first cousin,
        Cheddar)</p>

        <p>Heat butter and cream together, then stir in the cheese
        and let it stew.</p>

        <p>You dunk fingers of toast directly into your individual
        tin, or pour the Stewed Rabbit over toast and brown the top
        under a blistering salamander.</p>

        <p>The salamander is worth modernizing, too, so you can
        brand your own Rabbits with your monogram or the design of
        your own Rabbitry. Such a branding iron might be square,
        like the stew tin, and about the size of a piece of
        toast.</p>
    </div>

    <p>It is notable that there is no beer or ale in this recipe,
    but not lamentable, since all aboriginal cheese toasts were
    washed down <!-- Page 63 --><a id="Page_63"></a>in tossing seas of ale, beer, porter,
       stout, and 'arf and 'arf.</p>

    <p>This creamy Stewed Buck, on which the literary greats of
    Johnson's time supped while they smoked their church wardens,
    received its highest praise from an American newspaper woman
    who rhapsodized in 1891: "Then came stewed cheese, on the thin
    shaving of crisp, golden toast in hot silver saucers&mdash;so
    hot that the cheese was the substance of thick cream, the
    flavor of purple pansies and red raspberries commingled."</p>

    <p>This may seem a bit flowery, but in truth many fine cheeses
    hold a trace of the bouquet of the flowers that have enriched
    the milk. Alpine blooms and herbs haunt the Gruy&egrave;re,
    Parmesan wafts the scent of Parma violets, the Flower Cheese of
    England is perfumed with the petals of rose, violet, marigold
    and jasmine.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Oven Rabbit</b> (FROM AN OLD
         RECIPE)</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Chop small &frac12; pound of cooking cheese. Put it,
        with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, in a little
        saucepan, and as the butter melts and the cheese gets warm,
        mash them together,</p>

        <p>When softened add 2 yolks of eggs, &frac12; teacupful of
        ale, a little cayenne pepper and salt. Stir with a wooden
        spoon one way only, until it is creamy, but do not let it
        boil, for that would spoil it. Place some slices of
        buttered toast on a dish, pour the Rarebit upon them, and
        set inside-the oven about 2 minutes before serving.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Yorkshire Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p><i>(originally called Gherkin Buck, from a pioneer
        recipe</i>)</p>

        <p>Put into a saucepan &frac12; pound of cheese, sprinkle
        with pepper (black, of course) to taste, pour over &frac12;
        teacup of ale, and convert the whole into a smooth, creamy
        mass, over the fire, stirring continually, for about 10
        minutes.</p>

        <p>In 2 more minutes it should be done. (10 minutes
        altogether is the minimum.) Pour it over slices of hot
        toast, place a piece of broiled bacon on the top of each
        and serve as hot as possible.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 64 --><a id="Page_64"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Golden Buck</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>A Golden Buck is simply the Basic Welsh Rabbit with beer
        (No. 1) plus a poached egg on top. The egg, sunny side up,
        gave it its shining name a couple of centuries ago.
        Nowadays some chafing dish show-offs try to gild the Golden
        Buck with dashes of ginger and spice.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Golden Buck II</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>This is only a Golden Buck with the addition of bacon
        strips.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>The Venerable Yorkshire
         Buck</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Spread &frac12;-inch slices of bread with mustard and
        brown in hot oven. Then moisten each slice with &frac12;
        glass of ale, lay on top a slice of cheese &frac14;-inch
        thick, and 2 slices of bacon on top of that. Put back in
        oven, cook till cheese is melted and the bacon crisp, and
        serve piping hot, with tankards of cold ale.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Bacon is the thing that identifies any Yorkshire Rabbit.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Yale College Welsh Rabbit</b>
         (MORIARTY'S)</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 jigger of beer<br >
         &frac14; teaspoon salt<br >
         &frac14; teaspoon black pepper<br >
         &frac14; teaspoon mustard<br >
         1&frac12; cups grated or shaved cheese<br >
         More beer</p>

        <p>Pour the jigger of beer into "a low saucepan," dash on
        the seasonings, add the cheese and stir unremittingly,
        moistening from time to time with more beer, a pony or two
        at a time.</p>

        <p>When creamy, pour over buttered toast (2 slices for this
        amount) and serve with still more beer.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 65 --><a id="Page_65"></a> There are two schools of postgraduate
       Rabbit-hunters: Yale, as above, with beer both in the Rabbit
       and with it; and the other featured in the Stieff Recipe,
       which prefers leaving it out of the Rabbit, but taps a keg
       to drink with it.</p>

    <p>The ancient age of Moriarty's campus classic is registered
    by the use of pioneer black pepper in place of white, which is
    often used today and is thought more sophisticated by some than
    the red cayenne of Rector's Naughty Nineties Chafing Dish
    Rabbit, which is precisely the same as our Basic Recipe No.
    1.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Border-hopping Bunny, or
         Frijole Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1&frac12; tablespoons butter<br >
         1&frac12; tablespoons chopped onion<br >
         2 tablespoons chopped pepper, green or red, or both<br >
         1&frac12; teaspoon chili powder<br >
         1 small can kidney beans, drained<br >
         1&frac12; tablespoons catsup<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon Worcestershire<br >
         Salt<br >
         2 cups grated cheese</p>

        <p>Cook onion and pepper lightly in butter with chili
        powder; add kidney beans and seasonings and stir in the
        cheese until melted.</p>

        <p>Serve this beany Bunny peppery hot on tortillas or
        crackers, toasted and buttered.</p>
    </div>

    <p>In the whole hutch of kitchen Rabbitry the most popular
    modern ones are made with tomato, a little or lots. They hop in
    from everywhere, from Mexico to South Africa, and call for all
    kinds of quirks, down to mixing in some dried beef, and there
    is even a skimpy Tomato Rabbit for reducers, made with farmer
    cheese and skimmed milk.</p>

    <p>Although the quaintly named Rum Tum Tiddy was doubtless the
    great-grandpappy of all Tomato Rabbits, a richer, more buttery
    and more eggy one has taken its place as the standard today.
    The following is a typical recipe for this, tried and true,
    since it <!-- Page 66 --><a id="Page_66"></a>has had a successful run through a score of
       the best modern cookbooks, with only slight personal changes
       to keep its juice a-flowing blood-red.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Tomato Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 tablespoons butter<br >
         2 tablespoons flour<br >
         &frac34; cup thin cream or evaporated milk<br >
         &frac34; cup canned tomato pulp, rubbed through a sieve to
        remove seeds<br >
         A pinch of soda<br >
         3 cups grated cheese<br >
         Pinches of dry mustard, salt and cayenne<br >
         2 eggs, lightly beaten</p>

        <p>Blend flour in melted butter, add cream slowly, and when
        this white sauce is a little thick, stir in tomato
        sprinkled with soda. Keep stirring steadily while adding
        cheese and seasonings, and when cooked enough, stir in the
        eggs to make a creamy texture, smooth as silk. Serve on
        buttered whole wheat or graham bread for a change.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Instead of soda, some antiquated recipes call for "a
    tablespoon of bicarbonate of potash."</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>South African Tomato
         Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>This is the same as above, except that &frac12; teaspoon
        of sugar is used in place of the soda and the Rabbit is
        poured over baked pastry cut into squares and sprinkled
        with parsley, chopped fine, put in the oven and served
        immediately.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Rum Tum Tiddy, Rink Tum
         Ditty, etc.</b> (OLD BOSTON STYLE)</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 tablespoon butter<br >
         1 onion, minced<br >
         1 teaspoon salt<br >
         1 big pinch of pepper<br >
         2 cups cooked tomatoes<br >
         1 tablespoon sugar<br >
         3 cups grated store cheese<br >
         1 egg, lightly beaten<br >
         <!-- Page 67 --><a id="Page_67"></a></p>

        <p>Slowly fry onion bright golden in butter, season and add
        tomatoes with sugar. Heat just under the bubbling point.
        Don't let it boil, but keep adding cheese and shaking the
        pan until it melts. Then stir in egg gently and serve very
        hot</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Tomato Soup Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 can condensed tomato soup<br >
         2 cups grated cheese<br >
         &frac14; teaspoon English mustard<br >
         1 egg, lightly beaten<br >
         Salt and pepper</p>

        <p>Heat soup, stir in cheese until melted, add mustard and
        egg slowly, season and serve hot.</p>
    </div>

    <p>This is a quickie Rum Tum Tiddy, without any onion, a poor,
    housebroken version of the original. It can be called a Celery
    Rabbit if you use a can of celery soup in place of the
    tomato.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Onion Rum Tum Tiddy</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy, but use only 1&frac12; cups
        cooked tomatoes and add &frac12; cup of mashed boiled
        onions.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 tablespoon butter<br >
         1 small onion, minced<br >
         1 small green pepper, minced<br >
         1 can tomato soup<br >
         &frac34; cup milk<br >
         3 cups grated cheese<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br >
         Salt and pepper<br >
         1 egg, lightly beaten<br >
         1 jigger sherry<br >
         Crackers</p>

        <p>Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy. Stir in sherry last to
        retain its flavor. Crumble crackers into a hot tureen until
        it's about &#8531; full and pour the hot Rum Tum Tiddy over
        them.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 68 --><a id="Page_68"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Blushing Bunny</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>This is a sister-under-the-skin to the old-fashioned Rum
        Tum Tiddy, except that her complexion is made a little
        rosier with a lot of paprika in place of plain pepper, and
        the paprika cooked in from the start, of course.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Blushing Bunny is one of those playful English names for
    dishes, like Pink Poodle, Scotch Woodcock (given below), Bubble
    and Squeak <i>(Bubblum Squeakum</i>), and Toad in the Hole.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Scotch Woodcock</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Another variant of Rum Tum Tiddy. Make your Rum Tum
        Tiddy, but before finishing up with the beaten egg, stir in
        2 heaping tablespoons of anchovy paste and prepare the
        buttered toast by laying on slices of hard-cooked eggs.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>American Woodchuck</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1&frac12; cups tomato pur&eacute;e<br >
         2 cups grated cheese<br >
         1 egg, lightly beaten<br >
         Cayenne<br >
         1 tablespoon brown sugar<br >
         Salt and pepper</p>

        <p>Heat the tomato and stir in the cheese. When partly
        melted stir in the egg and, when almost cooked, add
        seasonings without ever interrupting the stirring. Pour
        over hot toasted crackers or bread.</p>
    </div>

    <p>No doubt this all-American Tomato Rabbit with brown sugar
    was named after the native woodchuck, in playful imitation of
    the Scotch Woodcock above. It's the only Rabbit we know that's
    sweetened with brown sugar.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Running Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>(<i>as served at the Waldorf-Astoria, First Annual
        Cheeselers Field Day, November 12,1937</i>)
        <!-- Page 69 --><a id="Page_69"></a></p>

        <p>Cut finest old American cheese in very small pieces and
        melt in saucepan with a little good beer. Season and add
        Worcestershire sauce. Serve instantly with freshly made
        toast.</p>
    </div>

    <p>This running cony can be poured over toast like any other
    Rabbit, or over crushed crackers in a hot tureen, as in Sherry
    Rum Tum Tiddy, or served like Fondue, in the original cooking
    bowl or pan, with the spoon kept moving in it in one direction
    only and the Rabbit following the spoon, like a greyhound
    following the stuffed rabbit at the dog races.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Mexican Chilaly</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 tablespoon butter<br >
         3 tablespoons chopped green pepper 1&frac12; tablespoons
        chopped onion<br >
         1 cup chopped and drained canned tomatoes, without
        seeds<br >
         2&frac12; cups grated cheese<br >
         &frac34; teaspoon salt<br >
         Dash of cayenne<br >
         1 egg, lightly beaten<br >
         2 tablespoons canned tomato juice<br >
         Water cress</p>

        <p>Cook pepper and onion lightly in butter, add tomato pulp
        and cook 5 minutes before putting over boiling water and
        stirring steadily as you add cheese and seasonings. Moisten
        the egg with the tomato juice and stir in until the Rabbit
        is thick and velvety.</p>

        <p>Serve on toast and dress with water cress.</p>
    </div>

    <p>This popular modern Rabbit seems to be a twin to Rum Tum
    Tiddy in spite of the centuries' difference in age.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Fluffy, Eggy Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Stir up a Chilaly as above, but use 2 well-beaten eggs
        to make it more fluffy, and leave out the watercress. Serve
        it hot over cold slices of hard-cooked eggs crowded flat on
        hot buttered toast, to make it extra eggy.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 70 --><a id="Page_70"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Grilled Tomato Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Slice big, red, juicy tomatoes &frac12;-inch thick,
        season with salt, pepper and plenty of brown sugar. Dot
        both sides with all the butter that won't slip off.</p>

        <p>Heat in moderate oven, and when almost cooked, remove
        and broil on both sides. Put on hot plates in place of the
        usual toast and pour the Rabbit over them. (The Rabbit is
        made according to either Basic Recipe No. 1 or No. 2.)</p>

        <p>Slices of crisp bacon on top of the tomato slices and a
        touch of horseradish help.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Grilled Tomato and Onion
         Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Slice &frac14;-inch thick an equal number of tomato and
        onion rings. Season with salt, pepper, brown sugar and dots
        of butter. Heat in moderate oven, and when almost cooked
        remove and broil lightly.</p>

        <p>On hot plates lay first the onion rings, top with the
        tomato ones and pour the Rabbit over, as in the plain
        Grilled Tomato recipe above.</p>
    </div>

    <p>For another onion-flavored Rabbit see Celery and Onion
    Rabbit.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>The Devil's Own</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>(<i>a fresh tomato variant</i>)</p>

        <p>2 tablespoons butter<br >
         1 large peeled tomato in 4 thick slices<br >
         2&frac12; cups grated cheese<br >
         &frac14; teaspoon English mustard<br >
         A pinch of cayenne<br >
         A dash of tabasco sauce<br >
         2 tablespoons chili sauce<br >
         &frac12; cup ale or beer<br >
         1 egg, lightly beaten</p>

        <p>Saut&eacute; tomato slices lightly on both sides in 1
        tablespoon butter. Keep warm on hot platter while you make
        the toast and a Basic <!-- Page 71 --><a id="Page_71"></a> Rabbit, pepped up by the extra-hot
           seasonings listed above. Put hot tomato slices on hot
           toast on hot plates; pour the hot mixture over.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Dried Beef or Chipped Beef
         Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 tablespoon butter<br >
         1 cup canned tomato, drained, chopped and de-seeded<br >
         &frac14; pound dried beef, shredded<br >
         2 eggs, lightly beaten<br >
         &frac14; teaspoon pepper<br >
         2 cups grated cheese</p>

        <p>Heat tomato in butter, add beef and eggs, stir until
        mixed well, then sprinkle with pepper, stir in the grated
        cheese until smooth and creamy. Serve on toast.</p>
    </div>

    <p>No salt is needed on this jerked steer meat that is called
    both dried beef and chipped beef on this side of the border,
    <i>tasajo</i> on the other side, and <i>xarque</i> when you get
    all the way down to Brazil.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Kansas Jack Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 cup milk<br >
         3 tablespoons butter<br >
         3 tablespoons flour<br >
         2 cups grated cheese<br >
         1 cup cream-style corn<br >
         Salt and pepper</p>

        <p>Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in
        cheese steadily and gradually until melted. Add corn and
        season to taste. Serve on hot buttered toast.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Kansas has plenty of the makings for this, yet the dish must
    have been easier to make on Baron M&uuml;nchhausen's "Island of
    Cheese," where the cornstalks produced loaves of bread,
    ready-made, instead of ears, and were no doubt crossed with
    long-eared jacks to produce Corn Rabbits quite as
    miraculous.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 72 --><a id="Page_72"></a> After tomatoes, in popularity, come onions
       and then green peppers or canned pimientos as vegetable
       ingredients in modern, Americanized Rabbits. And after that,
       corn, as in the following recipe which appeals to all
       Latin-Americans from Mexico to Chile because it has
       everything.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Latin-American Corn
         Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 tablespoons butter<br >
         1 green pepper, chopped<br >
         1 large onion, chopped<br >
         &frac12; cup condensed tomato soup<br >
         3 cups grated cheese<br >
         1 teaspoon salt<br >
         &frac14; teaspoon black pepper<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br >
         1 cup canned corn<br >
         1 egg, lightly beaten</p>

        <p>Fry pepper and onion 5 minutes in butter; add soup,
        cover and cook 5 minutes more. Put over boiling water; add
        cheese with seasonings and stir steadily, slowly adding the
        corn, and when thoroughly blended and creamy, moisten the
        egg with a little of the liquid, stir in until thickened
        and then pour over hot toast or crackers.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Mushroom-Tomato
         Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>In one pan commence frying in butter 1 cup of sliced
        fresh mushrooms, and in another make a Rabbit by melting
        over boiling water 2 cups of grated cheese with &frac12;
        teaspoon salt and &frac12; teaspoon paprika. Stir steadily
        and, when partially melted, stir in a can of condensed
        tomato soup, previously heated. Then add the fried
        mushrooms slowly, stir until creamy and pour over hot toast
        or crackers.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Celery and Onion
         Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>&frac12; cup chopped hearts of celery<br >
         1 small onion, chopped<br >
         1 tablespoon butter<br >
         1&frac12; cups grated sharp cheese<br >
         Salt and pepper<br >
         <!-- Page 73 --><a id="Page_73"></a></p>

        <p>In a separate pan boil celery and onion until tender.
        Meanwhile, melt cheese with butter and seasonings and stir
        steadily. When nearly done stir the celery and onion in
        gradually, until smooth and creamy.</p>

        <p>Pour over buttered toast and brown with a salamander or
        under the grill.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Asparagus Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Make as above, substituting a cupful of tender sliced
        asparagus tops for the celery and onion.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Oyster Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 dozen oysters and their liquor<br >
         1 teaspoon butter<br >
         2 eggs, lightly beaten<br >
         1 large pinch of salt<br >
         1 small pinch of cayenne<br >
         3 cups grated cheese</p>

        <p>Heat oysters until edges curl and put aside to keep warm
        while you proceed to stir up a Rabbit. When cheese is
        melted add the eggs with some of the oyster liquor and keep
        stirring. When the Rabbit has thickened to a smooth cream,
        drop in the warm oysters to heat a little more, and serve
        on hot buttered toast.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Sea-food Rabbits</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p><i>(crab, lobster, shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels,
        abalone, squid, octopi; anything that swims in the sea or
        crawls on the bottom of the ocean)</i></p>

        <p>Shred, flake or mince a cupful of any freshly cooked or
        canned sea food and save some of the liquor, if any. Make
        according to Oyster Rabbit recipe above.</p>

        <p>Instead of using only one kind of sea food, try several,
        mixed according to taste. Spike this succulent Sea Rabbit
        with horseradish or a dollop of sherry, for a change.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 74 --><a id="Page_74"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>"Bouquet of the Sea"
         Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>The seafaring Portuguese set the style for this lush
        bouquet of as many different kinds of cooked fish (tuna,
        cod, salmon, etc.) as can be sardined together in the
        whirlpool of melted cheese in the chafing dish. They also
        accent it with tidbits of sea food as above.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Other Fish Rabbit, Fresh or
         Dried</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Any cooked fresh fish, flaked or shredded, from the
        alewife to the whale, or cooked dried herring, finnan
        haddie, mackerel, cod, and so on, can be stirred in to make
        a basic Rabbit more tasty. Happy combinations are hit upon
        in mixing leftovers of several kinds by the cupful. So the
        odd old cookbook direction, "Add a cup of fish," takes on
        new meaning.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Grilled Sardine
         Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Make a Basic Rabbit and pour it over sardines, skinned,
        boned, halved and grilled, on buttered toast.</p>

        <p>Similarly cooked fillets of any small fish will make as
        succulent a grilled Rabbit.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Roe Rabbits</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Slice cooked roe of shad or toothsome eggs of other
        fish, grill on toast, butter well and pour a Basic Rabbit
        over. Although shad roe is esteemed the finest, there are
        many other sapid ones of salmon, herring, flounder, cod,
        etc.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Plain Sardine Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Make Basic Rabbit with only 2 cups of cheese, and in
        place of the egg yolks and beer, stir in a large tin of
        sardines, skinned, boned and flaked.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 75 --><a id="Page_75"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Anchovy Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Make Basic Rabbit, add 1 tablespoon of imported East
        Indian chutney with the egg yolks and beer at the finish,
        spread toast thickly with anchovy paste and butter, and
        pour the Rabbit over.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Smoked sturgeon, whiting,
         eel, smoked salmon, and the like</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Lay cold slices or flakes of any fine smoked fish (and
        all of them are fine) on hot buttered toast and pour a
        Basic Rabbit over the fish.</p>

        <p>The best combination we ever tasted is made by laying a
        thin slice of smoked salmon over a thick one of smoked
        sturgeon.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Smoked Cheddar Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>With or without smoked fish, Rabbit-hunters whose
        palates crave the savor of a wisp of smoke go for a Basic
        Rabbit made with smoked Cheddar in place of the usual aged,
        but unsmoked, Cheddar. We use a two-year-old that Phil
        Alpert, Mr. Cheese himself, brings down from Canada and has
        specially smoked in the same savory room where sturgeon is
        getting the works. So his Cheddar absorbs the de luxe
        flavor of six-dollar-per-pound sturgeon and is sold for a
        fraction of that.</p>

        <p>And just in case you are fishing around for something
        extra special, serve this smoky Rabbit on oven-browned
        Bombay ducks, those crunchy flat toasts of East Indian
        fish.</p>

        <p>Or go Oriental by accompanying this with cups of smoky
        Lapsang Soochong China tea.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Crumby Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 tablespoon butter<br >
         2 cups grated cheese<br >
         1 cup stale bread crumbs<br >
         <span style="margin-left: 1em;">soaked with</span><br >
         1 cup milk<br >
         1 egg, lightly beaten<br >
         Salt<br >
         Cayenne<br >
         Toasted crackers<br >
         <!-- Page 76 --><a id="Page_76"></a></p>

        <p>Melt cheese in butter, stir in the soaked crumbs and
        seasonings. When cooked smooth and creamy, stir in the egg
        to thicken the mixture and serve on toasted crackers, dry
        or buttered, for contrast with the bread.</p>

        <p>Some Rabbiteers monkey with this, lacing it with half a
        cup of catsup, making a sort of pink baboon out of what
        should be a white monkey.</p>

        <p>There is a cult for Crumby Rabbits variations on which
        extend all the way to a deep casserole dish called Baked
        Rabbit and consisting of alternate layers of stale bread
        crumbs and grated-cheese crumbs. This illegitimate
        three-layer Rabbit is moistened with eggs beaten up with
        milk, and seasoned with salt and paprika.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Crumby Tomato Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 teaspoons butter<br >
         2 cups grated cheese<br >
         &frac12; cup soft bread crumbs<br >
         1 cup tomato soup<br >
         Salt and pepper<br >
         1 egg, lightly beaten</p>

        <p>Melt cheese in butter, moisten bread crumbs with the
        tomato soup and stir in; season, add egg and keep stirring
        until velvety. Serve on toasted crackers, as a contrast to
        the bread crumbs.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Gherkin or Irish
         Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 tablespoons butter<br >
         2 cups grated cheese<br >
         &frac12; cup milk (or beer)<br >
         A dash of vinegar<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon mustard<br >
         Salt and pepper<br >
         &frac12; cup chopped gherkin pickles</p>

        <p>Melt cheese in butter, steadily stir in liquid and
        seasonings. Keep stirring until smooth, then add the
        pickles and serve.</p>
    </div>

    <p>This may have been called Irish after the green of the
    pickle.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 77 --><a id="Page_77"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Dutch Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Melt thin slices of any good cooking cheese in a heavy
        skillet with a little butter, prepared mustard, and a
        splash of beer.</p>

        <p>Have ready some slices of toast soaked in hot beer or
        ale and pour the Rabbit over them.</p>

        <p>The temperance version of this substitutes milk for beer
        and delicately soaks the toast in hot water instead.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Proof that there is no Anglo-Saxon influence here lies in
    the use of prepared mustard. The English, who still do a lot of
    things the hard way, mix their biting dry mustard fresh with
    water before every meal, while the Germans and French bottle
    theirs, as we do.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Pumpernickel Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>This German deviation is made exactly the same as the
        Dutch Rabbit above, but its ingredients are the opposite in
        color. Black bread (pumpernickel) slices are soaked in
        heated dark beer (porter or stout) and the yellow cheese
        melted in the skillet is also stirred up with brunette
        beer.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Since beer is a kind of liquid bread, it is natural for the
    two to commingle in Rabbits whether they are blond Dutch or
    black pumpernickel. And since cheese is only solid milk, and
    the Cheddar is noted for its beery smell, there is further
    affinity here. An old English proverb sums it up neatly: "Bread
    and cheese are the two targets against death."</p>

    <p>By the way, the word pumpernickel is said to have been
    coined when Napoleon tasted his first black bread in Germany.
    Contemptuously he spat it out with: "This would be good for my
    horse, Nicole." "<i>Bon pour Nicole</i>" in French.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 78 --><a id="Page_78"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Gruy&egrave;re Welsh Rabbit
         <i>au gratin</i></b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Cut crusts from a half-dozen slices of bread. Toast them
        lightly, lay in a roasting pan and top each with a matching
        slice of imported Gruy&egrave;re &#8540;-inch thick. Pepper
        to taste and cover with bread crumbs. Put in oven 10
        minutes and rush to the ultimate consumer.</p>
    </div>

    <p>To our American ears anything <i>au gratin</i> suggests
    "with cheese," so this Rabbit <i>au gratin</i> may sound
    redundant. To a Frenchman, however, it means a dish covered
    with bread crumbs.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Swiss Cheese Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>&frac12; cup white wine, preferably
        Neufch&acirc;tel<br >
         &frac12; cup grated Gruy&egrave;re<br >
         1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br >
         &frac12; saltspoon paprika<br >
         2 egg yolks</p>

        <p>Stir wine and seasonings together with the cheese until
        it melts, then thicken with the egg yolks, stirring at
        least 3 more minutes until smooth.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Sherry Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>3 cups grated cheese<br >
         &frac12; cup cream or evaporated milk<br >
         &frac12; cup sherry<br >
         &frac14; teaspoon English mustard<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br >
         A dash of paprika</p>

        <p>Heat cheese over hot water, with or without a bit of
        butter, and when it begins to melt, stir in the cream. Keep
        stirring until almost all of the cheese is melted, then add
        sherry. When smooth <!-- Page 79 --><a id="Page_79"></a> and creamy, stir in the mustard and
           Worcestershire sauce, and after pouring over buttered
           toast dash with paprika for color.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Spanish Sherry Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>3 tablespoons butter<br >
         3 tablespoons flour<br >
         1 bouillon cube, mashed<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon salt<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon dry mustard<br >
         1&frac12; cups milk<br >
         1&frac12; cups grated cheese<br >
         1 jigger sherry</p>

        <p>Make a smooth paste of butter, flour, bouillon cube and
        seasonings, and add milk slowly. When well-heated stir in
        the cheese gradually. Continue stirring at least 10
        minutes, and when well-blended stir in the sherry and serve
        on hot, buttered toast.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Pink Poodle</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 tablespoons butter<br >
         1 tablespoon chopped onion<br >
         1 tablespoon flour<br >
         1 jigger California claret<br >
         1 cup cream of tomato soup<br >
         A pinch of soda<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon dry mustard<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon salt<br >
         1 teaspoon paprika<br >
         A dash of powdered cloves<br >
         3 cups grated cheese<br >
         1 egg, lightly beaten</p>

        <p>Cook onion in butter until light golden, then blend in
        flour, wine and soup with the soda and all seasonings. Stir
        in cheese slowly until melted and finish off by thickening
        with the egg and stirring until smooth and velvety. Serve
        on crisp, buttered toast with a dry red wine.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Although wine Rabbits, red or white, are as unusual as Swiss
    ones with Gruy&egrave;re in place of Cheddar, wine is commonly
    drunk with anything from a Golden Buck to a Blushing Bunny. But
    for most of us, a deep draught of beer or ale goes best with an
    even deeper draught of the mellow scent of a Cheddar
    golden-yellow.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 80 --><a id="Page_80"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Savory Eggy Dry
         Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>&#8539; pound butter<br >
         2 cups grated Gruy&egrave;re<br >
         4 eggs, well-beaten<br >
         Salt<br >
         Pepper<br >
         Mustard</p>

        <p>Melt butter and cheese together with the beaten eggs,
        stirring steadily with wooden spoon until soft and smooth.
        Season and pour over dry toast.</p>
    </div>

    <p>This "dry" Rabbit, in which the volume of the eggs makes up
    for any lacking liquid, is still served as a savory after the
    sweets to finish a fine meal in some old-fashioned English
    homes and hostelries.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cream Cheese Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>This Rabbit, made with a package of cream cheese, is
        more scrambled hen fruit than Rabbit food, for you simply
        scramble a half-dozen eggs with butter, milk, salt, pepper
        and cayenne, and just before the finish work in the cheese
        until smooth and serve on crackers&mdash;water crackers for
        a change.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Reducing Rarebit</b> (Tomato
         Rarebit)<a id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1"
       class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>YIELD: 2 servings. 235 calories per serving.</p>

        <p>&frac12; pound farmer cheese<br >
         2 eggs<br >
         1 level tablespoon powdered milk<br >
         1 level teaspoon baking powder<br >
         1 teaspoon gelatin or agar powder<br >
         4 egg tomatoes, quartered, or<br >
         2 tomatoes, quartered<br >
         1 teaspoon caraway seeds<br >
         &frac14; teaspoon garlic powder<br >
         1 teaspoon parsley flakes<br >
         &frac12; head lettuce and/or 1 cucumber<br >
         &frac14; cup wine vinegar<br >
         Salt and pepper to taste</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 81 --><a id="Page_81"></a></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Fill bottom of double boiler with water to &frac34;
        mark. Sprinkle salt in upper part of double boiler. Boil
        over medium flame. When upper part is hot, put in cheese,
        powdered milk, baking powder, gelatin, caraway seeds and
        pepper and garlic powder to taste. Mix. Break eggs into
        this mixture, cook over low flame, continually stirring.
        Add tomatoes when mixture bubbles and continue cooking and
        stirring until tomatoes have been cooked soft. Remove to
        lettuce and/or cucumber (sliced thin) which has been
        slightly marinated in wine vinegar and sprinkle the parsley
        flakes over the top of the mixture.</p>
    </div>

    <div class="footnote">
        <p><a id="Footnote_A_1"></a>
           <a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a>
           (from <i>The Low-Calory Cookbook</i> by Bernard Koten,
           published by Random House)</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Curry Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 tablespoon cornstarch<br >
         2 cups milk<br >
         2&frac12; cups grated cheese<br >
         1 tablespoon minced chives<br >
         2 green onions, minced<br >
         2 shallots, minced<br >
         &frac14; teaspoon imported curry powder<br >
         1 tablespoon chutney sauce</p>

        <p>Dissolve cornstarch in a little of the milk and scald
        the rest over hot water. Thicken with cornstarch mixture
        and stir in the cheese, chives, onions, shallots, curry and
        chutney while wooden-spooning steadily until smooth and
        sizzling enough to pour over buttered toast.</p>
    </div>

    <p>People who can't let well enough alone put cornstarch in
    Rabbits, just as they add soda to spoil the cooking of
    vegetables.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Ginger Ale Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Simply substitute ginger ale for the real thing in the
        No. 1 Rabbit of all time.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Buttermilk Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Substitute buttermilk for plain milk in the No. 2
        Rabbit. To be consistent, use fresh-cured Buttermilk
        Cheese, instead of the usual Cheddar of fresh cow's milk.
        This is milder.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 82 --><a id="Page_82"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Eggnog Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 tablespoons sweet butter<br >
         2 cups grated mellow Cheddar<br >
         1&#8531; cups eggnog<br >
         Dashes of spice to taste.</p>

        <p>After melting the cheese in butter, stir in the eggnog
        and keep stirring until smooth and thickened. Season or
        not, depending on taste and the quality of eggnog
        employed.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Ever since the innovation of bottled eggnogs fresh from the
    milkman in holiday season, such supremely creamy and flavorful
    Rabbits have been multiplying as fast as guinea pigs.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>All-American Succotash
         Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 cup milk<br >
         3 tablespoons butter<br >
         3 tablespoons flour<br >
         3 cups grated cheese<br >
         1 cup creamed succotash, strained<br >
         Salt and pepper</p>

        <p>Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in
        the cheese steadily and gradually until melted. Add the
        creamed succotash and season to taste.</p>

        <p>Serve on toasted, buttered corn bread.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Danish Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 quart warm milk<br >
         2 cups grated cheese</p>

        <p>Stir together to boiling point and pour over piping-hot
        toast in heated bowl. This is an esteemed breakfast dish in
        north Denmark.</p>

        <p>As in all Rabbits, more or less cheese may be used, to
        taste.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 83 --><a id="Page_83"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Easy English Rabbit</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Soak bread slices in hot beer. Melt thin slices of
        cheese with butter in iron frying pan, stir in a few
        spoonfuls of beer and a bit of prepared mustard. When
        smoothly melted, pour over the piping-hot, beer-soaked
        toast.</p>
    </div>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p><!-- Page 84 --> <a id="Page_84"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div>
        <img src="images/084.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 311px">
    </div>

    <div class="rightalign">
        <i>Chapter<br >
         Six</i>
    </div>

    <h2>The Fondue</h2>

    <p>There is a conspiracy among the dictionary makers to take
    the heart out of the Fondue. Webster makes it seem no better
    than a collapsed souffl&eacute;, with his definition:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p><b>Fondue.</b> Also, erroneously, <i>fondu</i>. A dish
        made of melted cheese, butter, eggs, and, often, milk and
        bread crumbs.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Thorndike-Barnhart further demotes this dish, that for
    centuries has been one of the world's greatest, to "a
    combination of melted cheese, eggs and butter" and explains
    that the name comes from the French <i>fondre</i>, meaning
    melt. The latest snub is delivered by the up-to-date <i>Cook's
    Quiz</i> compiled by TV culinary experts:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>A baked dish with eggs, cheese, butter, milk and bread
        crumbs.</p>
    </div>

    <p>A baked dish, indeed! Yet the Fondue has added to the gaiety
    <!-- Page 85 --><a id="Page_85"></a>and inebriety of nations, if not of
       dictionaries. It has commanded the respect of the culinary
       great. Savarin, Boulestin, Andr&eacute; Simon, all have
       hailed its heavenly consistency, all have been regaled with
       its creamy, nay velvety, smoothness.</p>

    <p>A touch of garlic, a dash of kirsch, fresh ground black
    pepper, nutmeg, black pearl truffles of Bugey, red cayenne
    pepper, the luscious gravy of roast turkey&mdash;such little
    matters help to make an authentic dunking Fondue, not a baked
    Fondue, mind you. Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin a century and a
    half ago brought the original "receipt" with him and spread it
    around with characteristic generosity during the two years of
    his exile in New York after the French Revolution. In his
    monumental <i>Physiologie du Go&ucirc;t</i> he records an
    incident that occurred in 1795:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Whilst passing through Boston ... I taught the
        restaurant-keeper Julien to make a <i>Fondue</i>, or eggs
        cooked with cheese. This dish, a novelty to the Americans,
        became so much the rage, that he (Julien) felt himself
        obliged, by way of thanks, to send me to New York the rump
        of one of those pretty little roebucks that are brought
        from Canada in winter, and which was declared exquisite by
        the chosen committee whom I convoked for the occasion.</p>
    </div>

    <p>As the great French gourmet, Savarin was born on the Swiss
    border (at Belley, in the fertile Province of Bugey, where
    Gertrude Stein later had a summer home), he no doubt ate
    Gruy&egrave;re three times a day, as is the custom in
    Switzerland and adjacent parts. He sets down the recipe just as
    he got it from its Swiss source, the papers of Monsieur
    Trolliet, in the neighboring Canton of Berne:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Take as many eggs as you wish to use, according to the
        number of your guests. Then take a lump of good
        Gruy&egrave;re cheese, weighing about a third of the eggs,
        and a nut of butter about half the weight of the cheese.
        (Since today's eggs in America weigh about 1&frac12; ounces
        apiece, if you start the Fondue with 8.
        <!-- Page 86 --><a id="Page_86"></a>your lump of good Gruy&egrave;re would
           come to &frac14; pound and your butter to &#8539;
           pound.)</p>

        <p>Break and beat the eggs well in a flat pan, then add the
        butter and the cheese, grated or cut in small pieces.</p>

        <p>Place the pan on a good fire and stir with a wooden
        spoon until the mixture is fairly thick and soft; put in a
        little or no salt, according to the age of the cheese, and
        a good deal of pepper, for this is one of the special
        attributes of this ancient dish.</p>

        <p>Let it be placed on the table in a hot dish, and if some
        of the best wines be produced, and the bottle passed quite
        freely, a marvelous effect will be beheld.</p>
    </div>

    <p>This has long been quoted as the proper way to make the
    national dish of Switzerland. Savarin tells of hearing oldsters
    in his district laugh over the Bishop of Belley eating his
    Fondue with a spoon instead of the traditional fork, in the
    first decade of the 1700's. He tells, too, of a Fondue party he
    threw for a couple of his septuagenarian cousins in Paris
    "about the year 1801."</p>

    <p>The party was the result of much friendly taunting of the
    master: "By Jove, Jean, you have been bragging for such a long
    time about your Fondues, you have continually made our mouths
    water. It is high time to put a stop to all this. We will come
    and breakfast with you some day and see what sort of thing this
    dish is."</p>

    <p>Savarin invited them for ten o'clock next day, started them
    off with the table laid on a "snow white cloth, and in each
    one's place two dozen oysters with a bright golden lemon. At
    each end of the table stood a bottle of sauterne, carefully
    wiped, excepting the cork, which showed distinctly that it had
    been in the cellar for a long while.... After the oysters,
    which were quite fresh, came some broiled kidneys, a
    <i>terrine</i> of <i>foie gras</i>, a pie with truffles, and
    finally the Fondue. The different ingredients had all been
    assembled in a stewpan, which was placed on the table over a
    chafing dish, heated with spirits of wine.</p>

    <p>"Then," Savarin is quoted, "I commenced operations on the
    field of battle, and my cousins did not lose a single one of
    <!-- Page 87 --><a id="Page_87"></a>my movements. They were loud in the praise
       of this preparation, and asked me to let them have the
       receipt, which I promised them...."</p>

    <p>This Fondue breakfast party that gave the nineteenth century
    such a good start was polished off with "fruits in season and
    sweets, a cup of genuine mocha ... and finally two sorts of
    liqueurs, one a spirit for cleansing, and the other an oil for
    softening."</p>

    <p>This primitive Swiss Cheese Fondue is now prepared more
    elaborately in what is called:</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Neufch&acirc;tel
         Style</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2&frac12; cups grated imported Swiss<br >
         1&frac12; tablespoons flour<br >
         1 clove of garlic<br >
         1 cup dry white wine<br >
         Crusty French "flute" or hard rolls cut into big
        mouthfuls, handy<br >
         <span style="margin-left: 2em;">for dunking</span><br >
         1 jigger kirsch<br >
         Salt<br >
         Pepper<br >
         Nutmeg</p>

        <p>The cheese should be shredded or grated coarsely and
        mixed well with the flour. Use a chafing dish for cooking
        and a small heated casserole for serving. Hub the bottom
        and sides of the blazer well with garlic, pour in the wine
        and heat to bubbling, just under boiling. Add cheese
        slowly, half a cup at a time, and stir steadily in one
        direction only, as in making Welsh Rabbit. Use a silver
        fork. Season with very little salt, always depending on how
        salty the cheese is, but use plenty of black pepper,
        freshly ground, and a touch of nutmeg. Then pour in the
        kirsch, stir steadily and invite guests to dunk their
        forked bread in the dish or in a smaller preheated
        casserole over a low electric or alcohol burner on the
        dining table. The trick is to keep the bubbling melted
        cheese in rhythmic motion with the fork, both up and down
        and around and around.</p>
    </div>

    <p>The dunkers stab the hunks of crusty French bread through
    the soft part to secure a firm hold in the crust, for if your
    bread <!-- Page 88 --><a id="Page_88"></a>comes off in dunking you pay a forfeit,
       often a bottle of wine.</p>

    <p>The dunking is done as rhythmically as the stirring, guests
    taking regular turns at twirling the fork to keep the cheese
    swirling. When this "chafing dish cheese custard," as it has
    been called in England, is ready for eating, each in turn
    thrusts in his fork, sops up a mouthful with the bread for a
    sponge and gives the Fondue a final stir, to keep it always
    moving in the same direction. All the while the heat beneath
    the dish keeps it gently bubbling.</p>

    <p>Such a Neufch&acirc;tel party was a favorite of King Edward
    VII, especially when he was stepping out as the Prince of
    Wales. He was as fond of Fondue as most of the great gourmets
    of his day and preferred it to Welsh Rabbit, perhaps because of
    the wine and kirsch that went into it.</p>

    <p>At such a party a little heated wine is added if the Fondue
    gets too thick. When finally it has cooked down to a crust in
    the bottom of the dish, this is forked out by the host and
    divided among the guests as a very special dividend.</p>

    <p>Any dry white wine will serve in a pinch, and the
    Switzerland Cheese Association, in broadcasting this classical
    recipe, points out that any dry rum, slivovitz, or brandy,
    including applejack, will be a valid substitute for the kirsch.
    To us, applejack seems specially suited, when we stop to
    consider our native taste that has married apple pie to cheese
    since pioneer times.</p>

    <p>In culinary usage fondue means "melting to an edible
    consistency" and this, of course, doesn't refer to cheese
    alone, although we use it chiefly for that.</p>

    <p>In France Fondue is also the common name for a simple dish
    of eggs scrambled with grated cheese and butter and served very
    hot on toasted bread, or filled into fancy paper cases, quickly
    browned on top and served at once. The reason for this is that
    all baked Fondues fall as easily and as far as Souffl&eacute;s,
    although the latter are more noted for this failing. There is a
    similarity in the soft fluffiness of both, although the Fondues
    are always more moist. For there is a stiff, stuffed-shirt
    buildup around any Souffl&eacute;,
    <!-- Page 89 --><a id="Page_89"></a>suggesting a dressy dinner, while Fondue
       started as a self-service dunking bowl.</p>

    <p>Our modern tendency is to try to make over the original
    French Fondue on the Welsh Rabbit model&mdash;to turn it into a
    sort of French Rabbit. Although we know that both
    Gruy&egrave;re and Emmentaler are what we call Swiss and that
    it is impossible in America to duplicate the rich Alpine flavor
    given by the mountain herbs, we are inclined to try all sorts
    of domestic cheeses and mixtures thereof. But it's best to
    stick to Savarin's "lump of Gruy&egrave;re" just as the
    neighboring French and Italians do. It is interesting to note
    that this Swiss Alpine cooking has become so international that
    it is credited to Italy in the following description we reprint
    from <i>When Madame Cooks</i>, by an Englishman, Eric Weir:</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Fondue &agrave;
         l'Italienne</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>This is one of those egg dishes that makes one feel
        really grateful to hens. From its name it originated
        probably in Italy, but it has crossed the Alps. I have
        often met it in France, but only once in Italy.</p>

        <p>First of all, make a very stiff white sauce with butter,
        flour and milk. The sauce should be stiff enough to allow
        the wooden spoon to stand upright or almost.</p>

        <p>Off the fire, add yolks of eggs and 4 ounces of grated
        Gruy&egrave;re cheese. Mix this in well with the white
        sauce and season with salt, pepper and some grated nutmeg.
        Beat whites of egg firm. Add the whites to the preparation,
        stir in, and pour into a pudding basin.</p>

        <p>Take a large saucepan and fill half full of water. Bring
        to a boil, and then place the pudding basin so that the top
        of the basin is well out of the water. Allow to boil gently
        for 1&frac12; to 2 hours. Renew the boiling water from time
        to time, as it evaporates, and take care that the water, in
        boiling, does not bubble over the mixture.</p>

        <p>Test with a knife, as for a cake, to see if it is
        cooked. When <!-- Page 90 --><a id="Page_90"></a> the knife comes out clean, take the
           basin out of the water and turn the Fondue out on a
           dish. It should be fairly firm and keep the shape of the
           basin.</p>

        <p>Sprinkle with some finely chopped ham and serve hot.</p>
    </div>

    <p>The imported Swiss sometimes is cubed instead of grated,
    then marinated for four or five hours in dry white wine, before
    being melted and liquored with the schnapps. This can be
    pleasantly adopted here in:</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>All-American Fondue</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 pound imported Swiss cheese, cubed<br >
         &frac34; cup scuppernong or other American white
        wine<br >
         1&frac12; jiggers applejack</p>

        <p>After marinating the Swiss cubes in the wine, simply
        melt together over hot water, stir until soft and creamy,
        add the applejack and dunk with fingers of toast or your
        own to a chorus of "All Bound Round with a Woolen
        String."</p>

        <p>Of course, this can be treated as a mere vinous Welsh
        Rabbit and poured over toast, to be accompanied by beer.
        But wine is the thing, for the French Fondue is to dry wine
        what the Rabbit is to stale ale or fresh beer.</p>
    </div>

    <p>We say French instead of Swiss because the French took over
    the dish so eagerly, together with the great Gruy&egrave;re
    that makes it distinctive. They internationalized it, sent it
    around the world with bouillabaisse and onion soup, that
    celestial <i>soupe &agrave; l'oignon</i> on which snowy showers
    of grated Gruy&egrave;re descend.</p>

    <p>To put the Welsh Rabbit in its place they called it Fondue
    &agrave; l'Anglaise, which also points up the twinlike
    relationship of the world's two favorite dishes of melted
    cheese. But to differentiate and show they are not identical
    twins, the No. 1 dish remained Fromage Fondue while the second
    was baptized Fromage Fondue &agrave; la Bi&egrave;re.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 91 --><a id="Page_91"></a> Beginning with Savarin the French whisked
       up more rapturous, rhapsodic writing about Gruy&egrave;re
       and its offspring, the Fondue, together with the puffed
       Souffl&eacute;, than about any other imported cheese except
       Parmesan.</p>

    <p>Parmesan and Gruy&egrave;re were praised as the two greatest
    culinary cheeses. A variant Fondue was made of the Italian
    cheese.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Parmesan Fondue</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>3 tablespoons butter<br >
         1 cup grated Parmesan cheese<br >
         4 eggs, lightly beaten<br >
         Salt<br >
         Pepper</p>

        <p>Over boiling water melt butter and cheese slowly, stir
        in the eggs, season to taste and stir steadily in one
        direction only, until smooth.</p>

        <p>Pour over fingers of buttered toast. Or spoon it up, as
        the ancients did, before there were any forks. It's beaten
        with a fork but eaten catch-as-catch-can, like
        chicken-in-the-rough.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Sapsago Swiss Fondue</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 tablespoons butter<br >
         2 tablespoons flour<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon salt<br >
         1&frac12; cups milk<br >
         2&frac12; cups shredded Swiss cheese<br >
         2&frac12; tablespoons grated Sapsago<br >
         &frac12; cup dry white wine<br >
         Pepper, black and red, freshly ground<br >
         Fingers of toast</p>

        <p>Over boiling water stir the first four ingredients into
        a smooth, fairly thick cream sauce. Then stir in Swiss
        cheese until well melted. After that add the Sapsago,
        finely grated, and wine in small splashes. Stir steadily,
        in one direction only, until velvety. Season sharply with
        the contrasting peppers and serve over fingers of
        toast.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 92 --><a id="Page_92"></a> This is also nice when served bubbling in
       individual, preheated pastry shells, casseroles or ramekins,
       although this way most of the fun of the dunking party is
       left out. To make up for it, however, cooked slices of
       mushrooms are sometimes added.</p>

    <p>At the Cheese Cellar in the New York World's Fair Swiss
    Pavilion, where a continual dunking party was in progress,
    thousands of amateurs learned such basic things as not to
    overcook the Fondue lest it become stringy, and the protocol of
    dunking in turn and keeping the mass in continual motion until
    the next on the Fondue line dips in his cube of bread. The
    success of the dish depends on making it quickly, keeping it
    gently a-bubble and never letting it stand still for a split
    second.</p>

    <p>The Swiss, who consume three or four times as much cheese
    per capita as we, and almost twice as much as the French, are
    willing to share Fondue honors with the French Alpine province
    of Savoy, a natural cheese cellar with almost two dozen
    distinctive types of its very own, such as Fat cheese, also
    called Death's Head; La Grande Bornand, a luscious half-dried
    sheep's milker; Chevrotins, small, dry goat milk cheeses; and
    Le Vacherin. The latter, made in both Savoy and Switzerland,
    boasts two interesting variants:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1. <i>Vacherin Fondue or Spiced Fondue:</i> Made about
        the same as Emmentaler, ripened to sharp age, and then
        melted, spices added and the cheese re-formed. It is also
        called Spiced Fondue and sells for about two dollars a
        pound. Named Fondue from being melted, though it's really
        recooked,</p>

        <p>2. <i>Vacherin &agrave; la Main:</i> This is a curiosity
        in cheeses, resembling a cold, uncooked Fondue. Made of
        cow's milk, it is round, a foot in diameter and half a foot
        high. It is salted and aged until the rind is hard and the
        inside more runny than the ripest Camembert, so it can be
        eaten with a spoon (like the cooked Fondue) as well as
        spread on bread. The local name for it is <i>Tome de
        Montagne</i>.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 93 --><a id="Page_93"></a> Here is a good assortment of Fondues:</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Vacherin-Fribourg
         Fondue</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 tablespoons butter<br >
         1 clove garlic, crushed<br >
         2 cups shredded Vacherin cheese<br >
         2 tablespoons hot water</p>

        <p>This authentic quickie is started by cooking the garlic
        in butter until the butter is melted. Then remove garlic
        and reduce heat. Add the soft cheese and stir with silver
        fork until smooth and velvety. Add the water in little
        splashes, stirring constantly in one direction. Dunk! (In
        this melted Swiss a little water takes the place of a lot
        of wine.)</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>La Fondue Comtois</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>This regional specialty of Franche-Comt&eacute; is made
        with white wine. Sauterne, Chablis, Riesling or any Rhenish
        type will serve splendidly. Also use butter, grated
        Gruy&egrave;re, beaten eggs and that touch of garlic.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Chives Fondue</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>3 cups grated Swiss cheese<br >
         3 tablespoons flour<br >
         2 tablespoons butter<br >
         1 garlic clove, crushed<br >
         3 tablespoons finely chopped chives<br >
         1 cup dry white wine<br >
         Salt<br >
         Freshly ground pepper<br >
         A pinch of nutmeg<br >
         &frac14; cup kirsch</p>

        <p>Mix cheese and flour. Melt butter in chafing-dish blazer
        rubbed with garlic. Cook chives in butter 1 minute. Add
        wine and heat just under boiling. Keep simmering as you add
        cheese-and-flour mix gradually, stirring always in one
        direction. Salt <!-- Page 94 --><a id="Page_94"></a>according to age and sharpness of
           cheese; add plenty of freshly ground pepper and the
           pinch of nutmeg.</p>

        <p>When everything is stirred smooth and bubbling, toss in
        the kirsch without missing a stroke of the fork and get to
        dunking.</p>

        <p>Large, crisp, hot potato chips make a pleasant change
        for dunking purposes. Or try assorted crackers alternating
        with the absorbent bread, or hard rolls.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Tomato Fondue</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon dried sweet basil<br >
         1 clove garlic<br >
         2 tablespoons butter<br >
         &frac12; cup dry white wine<br >
         2 cups grated Cheddar cheese<br >
         Paprika</p>

        <p>Mix basil with chopped tomatoes. Rub chafing dish with
        garlic, melt butter, add tomatoes and much paprika. Cook 5
        to 6 minutes, add wine, stir steadily to boiling point.
        Then add cheese, half a cup at a time, and keep stirring
        until everything is smooth.</p>

        <p>Serve on hot toast, like Welsh Rabbit.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Here the two most popular melted-cheese dishes tangle, but
    they're held together with the common ingredient, tomato.</p>

    <p>Fondue also appears as a sauce to pour over baked tomatoes.
    Stale bread crumbs are soaked in tomato juice to make:</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Tomato Baked Fondue</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 cup tomato juice<br >
         1 cup stale bread crumbs<br >
         1 cup grated sharp American cheese<br >
         1 tablespoon melted butter<br >
         Salt<br >
         4 eggs, separated and well beaten</p>

        <p>Soak crumbs in tomato juice, stir cheese in butter until
        melted, season with a little or no salt, depending on
        saltiness of the <!-- Page 95 --><a id="Page_95"></a> cheese. Mix in the beaten yolks, fold
           in the white and bake about 50 minutes in moderate
           oven.</p>
    </div>

    <div class="cats">
        BAKED FONDUES
    </div>

    <p>Although Savarin's dunking Fondue was first to make a
    sensation on these shores and is still in highest esteem among
    epicures, the Fondue America took to its bosom was baked. The
    original recipe came from the super-caseous province of Savoy
    under the explicit title, <i>La Fondue au Fromage</i>.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>La Fondue au Fromage</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Make the usual creamy mixture of butter, flour, milk,
        yolks of eggs and Gruy&egrave;re, in thin slices for a
        change. Use red pepper instead of black, splash in a jigger
        of kirsch but no white wine. Finally fold in the egg whites
        and bake in a mold for 45 minutes.</p>
    </div>

    <p>We adapted this to our national taste which had already
    based the whole business of melted cheese on the Welsh Rabbit
    with stale ale or milk instead of white wine and
    Worcestershire, mustard and hot peppers. Today we have come up
    with this:</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>100% American Fondue</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 cups scalded milk<br >
         2 cups stale bread crumbs<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon dry English mustard<br >
         Salt<br >
         Dash of nutmeg<br >
         Dash of pepper<br >
         2 cups American cheese (Cheddar)<br >
         2 egg yolks, well beaten<br >
         2 egg whites, beaten stiff</p>

        <p>Soak crumbs in milk, season and stir in the cheese until
        melted. Add the beaten egg yolks and stir until you have a
        smooth mixture. Let this cool while beating the whites
        stiff, leaving them <!-- Page 96 --><a id="Page_96"></a> slightly moist. Fold the whites into
           the cool, custardy mix and bake in a buttered dish until
           firm. (About 50 minutes in a moderate oven.)</p>
    </div>

    <p>This is more of a baked cheese job than a true Fondue, to
    our way of thinking, and the scalded milk doesn't exactly take
    the place of the wine or kirsch. It is characteristic of our
    bland cookery.</p>

    <div class="cats">
        OTHER FONDUES<br >
         PLAIN AND FANCY,<br >
         BAKED AND NOT
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Quickie Catsup Tummy
         Fondiddy</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>&frac34; pound sharp cheese, diced<br >
         1 can condensed tomato soup<br >
         &frac12; cup catsup<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon mustard<br >
         1 egg, lightly beaten</p>

        <p>In double boiler melt cheese in soup. Blend thoroughly
        by constant stirring. Remove from heat, lightly whip or
        fold in the catsup and mustard mixed with egg. Serve on
        Melba toast or rusks.</p>
    </div>

    <p>This might be suggested as a novel midnight snack, with a
    cup of cocoa, for a change.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese and Rice
         Fondue</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 cup cooked rice<br >
         2 cups milk<br >
         4 eggs, separated and well beaten<br >
         &frac12; cup grated cheese<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon salt<br >
         Cayenne, Worcestershire sauce or tabasco sauce, or all
        three</p>

        <p>Heat rice (instead of bread crumbs) in milk, stir in
        cheese until melted, add egg yolks beaten lemon-yellow,
        season, fold in stiff egg whites. Serve hot on toast.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 97 --><a id="Page_97"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Corn and Cheese
         Fondue</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 cup bread crumbs<br >
         1 large can creamed corn<br >
         1 small onion, chopped<br >
         &frac12; green pepper, chopped<br >
         2 cups cottage cheese<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon salt<br >
         &frac12; cup milk<br >
         2 eggs, well beaten</p>

        <p>Mix all ingredients together and bake in buttered
        casserole set in pan of hot water. Bake about 1 hour in
        moderate oven, or until set.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Fondue</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 cup grated Cheddar<br >
         &frac12; cup crumbled Roquefort<br >
         1 cup pimento cheese<br >
         3 tablespoons cream<br >
         3 tablespoons butter<br >
         1 teaspoon Worcestershire</p>

        <p>Stir everything together over hot water until smooth and
        creamy. Then whisk until fluffy, moistening with more cream
        or mayonnaise if too stiff.</p>

        <p>Serve on Melba toast, or assorted thin toasted
        crackers.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Brick Fondue</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>&frac12; cup butter<br >
         2 cups grated Brick cheese<br >
         &frac12; cup warm milk<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon salt<br >
         2 eggs</p>

        <p>Melt butter and cheese together, use wire whisk to whip
        in the warm milk. Season. Take from fire and beat in the
        eggs, one at a time. Please note that Fondue protocol calls
        for each egg to be beaten separately in cases like
        this.</p>

        <p>Serve over hot toast or crackers.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 98 --><a id="Page_98"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheddar Dunk Bowl</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>&frac34; pound sharp Cheddar cheese<br >
         3 tablespoons cream<br >
         &#8532; teaspoon dry mustard<br >
         1&frac12; teaspoons Worcestershire</p>

        <p>Grate the cheese powdery fine and mash it together with
        the cream until fluffy. Season and serve in a beautiful
        bowl for dunking in the original style of Savarin, although
        this is a static imitation of the real thing.</p>

        <p>All kinds of crackers and colorful dips can be used,
        from celery stalks and potato chips to thin paddles cut
        from Bombay duck.</p>
    </div>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p><!-- Page 99 --><a id="Page_99"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div>
        <img src="images/099.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 304px">
    </div>

    <div class="rightalign">
        <i>Chapter<br >
         Seven</i>
    </div>

    <h2>Souffl&eacute;s, Puffs and Ramekins</h2>

    <p>There isn't much difference between Cheese Souffl&eacute;s,
    Puffs and Ramekins. The <i>English Encyclopedia of Practical
    Cookery</i>, the oldest, biggest and best of such works in
    English, lumps Cheese Puffs and Ramekins together, giving the
    same recipes for both, although it treats each extensively
    under its own name when not made with cheese.</p>

    <p>Cheese was the basis of the original French Ramequin, cheese
    and bread crumbs or puff paste, baked in a mold, (with puff
    again the principal factor in Souffl&eacute;, from the French
    <i>souffler</i>, puff up).</p>

    <p><!-- Page 100 --><a id="Page_100"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Basic Souffl&eacute;</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>3 tablespoons butter or margarine<br >
         4 tablespoons flour<br >
         1&frac14; cups hot milk, scalded<br >
         1 teaspoon salt<br >
         A dash of cayenne<br >
         &frac12; cup grated Cheddar cheese, sharp<br >
         2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow<br >
         2 egg whites, beaten stiff</p>

        <p>Melt butter, stir in flour and milk gradually until
        thick and smooth. Season and add the cheese, continuing the
        cooking and slow stirring until velvety. Remove from heat
        and let cool somewhat; then stir in the egg yolks with a
        light hand and an upward motion. Fold in the stiff whites
        and when evenly mixed pour into a big, round baking dish.
        (Some butter it and some don't.) To make sure the top will
        be even when baked, run a spoon or knife around the
        surface, about 1 inch from the edge of the dish, before
        baking slowly in a moderate oven until puffed high and
        beautifully browned. Serve instantly for fear the
        Souffl&eacute; may fall. The baking takes up to an hour and
        the egg whites shouldn't be beaten so stiff they are hard
        to fold in and contain no air to expand and puff up the
        dish.</p>
    </div>

    <p>To perk up the seasonings, mustard, Worcestershire sauce,
    lemon juice, nutmeg and even garlic are often used to taste,
    especially in England.</p>

    <p>While Cheddar is the preferred cheese, Parmesan runs it a
    close second. Then comes Swiss. You may use any two or all
    three of these together. Sometimes Roquefort is added, as in
    the Ramekin recipes below.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Parmesan
         Souffl&eacute;</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Make the same as Basic Souffl&eacute;, with these small
        modifications in the ingredients:</p>

        <p><!-- Page 101 --><a id="Page_101"></a> 1 full cup of grated Parmesan<br >
         1 extra egg in place of the &frac12; cup of Cheddar
        cheese<br >
         A little more butter<br >
         Black pepper, not cayenne</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Swiss Souffl&eacute;</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Make the same as Basic Souffl&eacute;, with these slight
        changes:</p>

        <p>1&frac14; cups grated Swiss cheese instead of the
        Cheddar cheese<br >
         Nutmeg in place of the cayenne</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Parmesan-Swiss
         Souffl&eacute;</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Make the same as Basic Souffl&eacute;, with these little
        differences:</p>

        <p>&frac12; cup grated Swiss cheese, and &frac12; cup
        grated Parmesan in place<br >
         of the Cheddar cheese<br >
         &frac14; teaspoon each of sugar and black pepper for
        seasoning.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Any of these makes a light, lovely luncheon or a proper
    climax to a grand dinner.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese-Corn
         Souffl&eacute;</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Make as Basic Souffl&eacute;, substituting for the
        scalded milk 1 cup of sieved and strained juice from
        cream-style canned corn.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese-Spinach
         Souffl&eacute;</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Saut&eacute; 1&frac12; cups of finely chopped, drained
        spinach in butter with 1 teaspoon finely grated onion, and
        then whip it until light and fluffy. Mix well into the
        white sauce of the Basic Souffl&eacute; before adding the
        cheese and following the rest of the recipe.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese-Tomato
         Souffl&eacute;</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Substitute hot tomato juice for the scalded milk.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 102 --><a id="Page_102"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese-Sea-food
         Souffl&eacute;</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Add 1&frac12; cups finely chopped or ground lobster,
        crab, shrimp, other sea food or mixture thereof, with any
        preferred seasoning added.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese-Mushroom
         Souffl&eacute;</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1&frac12; cups grated sharp Cheddar<br >
         1 cup cream of mushroom soup<br >
         Paprika, to taste<br >
         Salt<br >
         2 egg yolks, well beaten<br >
         2 egg whites, beaten stiff<br >
         2 tablespoons chopped, cooked bacon<br >
         2 tablespoons sliced, blanched almonds</p>

        <p>Heat cheese with soup and paprika, adding the cheese
        gradually and stirring until smooth. Add salt and thicken
        the sauce with egg yolks, still stirring steadily, and
        finally fold in the whites. Sprinkle with bacon and almonds
        and bake until golden brown and puffed high (about 1
        hour).</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese-Potato
         Souffl&eacute;</b> (Potato Puff)</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>6 potatoes<br >
         2 onions<br >
         1 tablespoon butter or margarine<br >
         1 cup hot milk<br >
         &frac34; cup grated Cheddar cheese<br >
         1 teaspoon salt<br >
         A dash of pepper<br >
         2 egg yolks, well beaten<br >
         2 egg whites, beaten stiff<br >
         &frac14; cup grated Cheddar cheese</p>

        <p>Cook potatoes and onions together until tender and put
        through a ricer. Mix with all the other ingredients except
        the egg whites and the Cheddar. Fold in the egg whites, mix
        thoroughly and pour into a buttered baking dish. Sprinkle
        the &frac14; cup of Cheddar on
        <!-- Page 103 --><a id="Page_103"></a> top and bake in moderate oven about
           &frac12; hour, until golden-brown and well puffed. Serve
           instantly.</p>

        <p>Variations of this popular Souffl&eacute; leave out the
        onion and simplify matters by using 2 cups of mashed
        potatoes. Sometimes 1 tablespoon of catsup and another of
        minced parsley is added to the mixture. Or onion juice
        alone, to take the place of the cooked onions&mdash;about a
        tablespoon, full or scant.</p>
    </div>

    <p>The English, in concocting such a Potato Puff or
    Souffl&eacute;, are inclined to make it extra peppery, as they
    do most of their Cheese Souffl&eacute;s, with not only "a dust
    of black pepper" but "as much cayenne as may be stood on the
    face of a sixpence."</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Fritter
         Souffl&eacute;s</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>These combine ham with Parmesan cheese and are even more
        delicately handled in the making than cr&ecirc;pes
        suzette.</p>
    </div>

    <div class="cats">
        PUFFS
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Three-in-One Puffs</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 cup grated Swiss<br >
         1 cup grated Parmesan<br >
         1 cup cream cheese<br >
         5 eggs, lightly beaten<br >
         salt and pepper</p>

        <p>Mix the cheeses into one mass moistened with the beaten
        eggs, splashed on at intervals. When thoroughly
        incorporated, put in ramekins, tiny tins, cups, or any sort
        of little mold of any shape. Bake in hot oven about 10
        minutes, until richly browned.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Such miniature Souffl&eacute;s serve as liaison officers for
    this entire section, since they are baked in ramekins, or
    ramequins, from the French word for the small baking dish that
    holds only one portion. These may be paper boxes, usually
    round, earthenware, <!-- Page 104 --><a id="Page_104"></a>china, Pyrex, of any attractive shape in
       which to bake or serve the Puffs.</p>

    <p>More commonly, in America at least, Puffs are made without
    ramekin dishes, as follows:</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Fried Puffs</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 egg whites, beaten stiff<br >
         &frac12; cup grated cheese<br >
         1 tablespoon flour<br >
         Salt<br >
         Paprika</p>

        <p>Into the stiff egg whites fold the cheese, flour and
        seasonings. When thoroughly mixed pat into shape desired,
        roll in crumbs and fry.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Roquefort Puffs</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>&#8539; pound genuine French Roquefort<br >
         1 egg white, beaten stiff<br >
         8 crackers or 2-inch bread rounds</p>

        <p>Cream the Roquefort, fold in the egg white, pile on
        crackers and bake 15 minutes in slow oven.</p>
    </div>

    <p>The constant repetition of "beaten stiff" in these recipes
    may give the impression that the whites are badly beaten up,
    but such is not the case. They are simply whipped to peaks and
    left moist and glistening as a teardrop, with a slight sad
    droop to them that shows there is still room for the air to
    expand and puff things up in cooking.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Parmesan Puffs</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Make a spread of mayonnaise or other salad dressing with
        equal parts of imported Parmesan, grated fine. Spread on a
        score <!-- Page 105 --><a id="Page_105"></a>or more of crackers in a roomy pan and
           broil a couple of minutes till they puff up
           golden-brown.</p>

        <p>Use only the best Parmesan, imported from Italy; or,
        second best, from Argentina where the rich pampas grass and
        Italian settlers get together on excellent Parmesan and
        Romano. Never buy Parmesan already grated; it quickly loses
        its flavor.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Breakfast Puffs</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 cup flour<br >
         1 cup milk<br >
         &frac14; cup finely grated cheese<br >
         1 egg, lightly beaten<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon salt</p>

        <p>Mix all together to a smooth, light batter and fill
        ramekins or cups half full; then bake in quick oven until
        they are puffing over the top and golden-brown.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Danish Fondue Puffs</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 stale roll<br >
         &frac12; cup boiling hot milk<br >
         Salt<br >
         Pepper<br >
         2 cups freshly grated Cheddar cheese<br >
         4 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow<br >
         4 egg whites, beaten stiff</p>

        <p>Soak roll in boiling milk and beat to a paste. Mix with
        cheese and egg yolks. When smooth and thickened fold in the
        egg whites and fill ramekins, tins, cups or paper forms and
        slowly bake until puffed up and golden-brown.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>New England Cheese
         Puffs</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 cup sifted flour<br >
         1 teaspoon baking powder<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon salt<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon Hungarian paprika<br >
         &frac14; teaspoon dry mustard<br >
         2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow<br >
         &frac12; cup milk<br >
         1 cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese<br >
         2 egg whites, beaten stiff but not dry<br >
         <!-- Page 106 --><a id="Page_106"></a></p>

        <p>Sift dry ingredients together, mix yolks with milk and
        stir in. Add cheese and when thoroughly incorporated fold
        in the egg whites to make a smooth batter. Drop from a big
        spoon into hot deep fat and cook until well browned.</p>

        <p>Caraway seeds are sometimes added. Poppy seeds are also
        used, and either of these makes a snappier puff, especially
        tasty when served with soup.</p>

        <p>A few drops of tabasco give this an extra tang.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cream Cheese Puffs</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>&frac12; pound cream cheese<br >
         1 cup milk<br >
         4 eggs, lightly beaten<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon salt<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon dry mustard</p>

        <p>Soften cheese by heating over hot water. Remove from
        heat and add milk, eggs and seasoning. Beat until well
        blended, then pour into custard cups, ramekins or any other
        individual baking dishes that are attractive enough to
        serve the puffs in.</p>
    </div>

    <div class="cats">
        RAMEKINS OR RAMEQUINS
    </div>

    <p>Some Ramekin dishes are made so exquisitely that they may be
    collected like snuff bottles.</p>

    <p>Ramekins are utterly French, both the cooked Puffs and the
    individual dishes in which they are baked. Essentially a Cheese
    Puff, this is also <i>au gratin</i> when topped with both
    cheese and browned bread crumbs. By a sort of poetic cook's
    license the name is also applied to any kind of cake containing
    cheese and cooked in the identifying one-portion ramekin. It is
    used chiefly in the plural, however, together with the name of
    the chief ingredient, such as "Chicken Ramekins" and:</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Ramekins I</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 eggs<br >
         2 tablespoons flour<br >
         &#8539; pound butter, melted<br >
         &#8539; pound grated cheese<br >
         <!-- Page 107 --><a id="Page_107"></a></p>

        <p>Mix well and bake in individual molds for 15
        minutes.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Ramekins II</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>3 tablespoons melted butter<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon each, salt and pepper<br >
         &frac34; cup bread crumbs<br >
         &frac12; cup grated cheese<br >
         2 eggs, lightly beaten<br >
         1&frac12; cups milk</p>

        <p>Mix the first four dry ingredients together, stir eggs
        into the milk and add. Stir to a smooth batter and bake in
        buttered ramekins, standing in water, in moderate oven.
        Serve piping hot, for like Souffl&eacute;s and all
        associated Puffs, the hot air will puff out of them
        quickly; then they will sink and be inedible.</p>
    </div>

    <div class="cats">
        TWO ANCIENT ENGLISH RECIPES,<br >
         STILL GOING STRONG
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Ramekins III</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Grate &frac12; pound of any dry, rich cheese. Butter a
        dozen small paper cases, or little boxes of stiff writing
        paper like Souffl&eacute; cases. Put a saucepan containing
        &frac12; pint of water over the fire, add 2 tablespoons of
        butter, and when the water boils, stir in 1 heaping
        tablespoonful of flour. Beat the mixture until it shrinks
        away from the sides of the saucepan; then stir in the
        grated cheese. Remove the paste thus made from the fire,
        and let it partly cool. In the meantime separate the yolks
        from the whites of three eggs, and beat them until the
        yolks foam and the whites make a stiff froth. Put the
        mixture at once into the buttered paper cases, only
        half-filling them (since they rise very high while being
        baked) with small slices of cheese, and bake in a moderate
        oven for about 15 minutes. As soon as the Puffs are done,
        put the cases on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin,
        and serve very hot.</p>
    </div>

    <p>The most popular cheese for Ramekins has always been, and
    still is, Gruy&egrave;re. But because the early English also
    adopted Italian Parmesan, <!-- Page 108 --><a id="Page_108"></a> that followed as a close second, and
       remains there today.</p>

    <p>Sharp Cheddar makes tangy Ramekins, as will be seen in this
    second oldster; for though it prescribes Gloucester and
    Cheshire "'arf-and-'arf," both are essentially Cheddars.
    Gloucester has been called "a glorified Cheshire" and the
    latter has long been known as a peculiarly rich and colorful
    elder brother of Cheddar, described in Kenelme Digby's
    <i>Closet Open'd</i> as a "quick, fat, rich, well-tasted
    cheese."</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Ramekins IV</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Scrape fine &frac14; pound of Gloucester cheese and
        &frac14; pound of Cheshire cheese. Beat this scraped cheese
        in a mortar with the yolks of 4 eggs, &frac14; pound of
        fresh butter, and the crumbs of a French roll boiled in
        cream until soft. When all this is well mixed and pounded
        to a paste, add the beaten whites of 4 eggs. Should the
        paste seem too stiff, 1 or 2 tablespoons of sherry may be
        added. Put the paste into paper cases, and bake in a Dutch
        oven till nicely browned. The Ramekins should be served
        very hot.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Since both Gloucester cheese and Cheshire cheese are not
    easily come by even in London today, it would be hard to
    reproduce this in the States. So the best we can suggest is to
    use half-and-half of two of our own great Cheddars, say
    half-Coon and half-Wisconsin Longhorn, or half-Tillamook and
    half-Herkimer County. For there's no doubt about it,
    contrasting cheeses tickle the taste buds, and as many as three
    different kinds put together make Puffs all the more
    perfect.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Ramequins &agrave; la
         Parisienne</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 cups milk<br >
         1 cup cream<br >
         1 ounce salt butter<br >
         1 tablespoon flour<br >
         &frac12; cup grated Gruy&egrave;re<br >
         Coarsely ground pepper<br >
         An atom of nutmeg<br >
         A <i>soup&ccedil;on</i> of garlic<br >
         A light touch of powdered sugar<br >
         8 eggs, separated<br >
         <!-- Page 109 --><a id="Page_109"></a></p>

        <p>Boil milk and cream together. Melt butter, mix in the
        flour and stir over heat 5 minutes, adding the milk and
        cream mixture a little at a time. When thoroughly cooked,
        remove from heat and stir in cheese, seasonings and the
        yolks of all 8 eggs, well beaten, and the whites of 2 even
        better beaten. When well mixed, fold in the remaining egg
        whites, stiffly beaten, until you have a batter as smooth
        and thick as cream. Pour this into ramekins of paper,
        porcelain or earthenware, filling each about &#8532; full
        to allow for them to puff up as they bake in a very slow
        oven until golden-brown (or a little less than 20
        minutes).</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Le Ramequin
         Mor&eacute;zien</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>This celebrated specialty of Franche-Comt&eacute; is
        described as "a porridge of water, butter, seasoning,
        chopped garlic and toast; thickened with minced
        Gruy&egrave;re and served very hot."</p>
    </div>

    <p>Several French provinces are known for distinctive
    individual Puffs usually served in the dainty fluted forms they
    are cooked in. In Jeanne d'Arc's Lorraine, for instance, there
    are the simply named <i>Les Ramequins</i>, made of flour,
    Gruy&egrave;re and eggs.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Swiss-Roquefort
         Ramekins</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>&frac14; pound Swiss cheese<br >
         &frac14; pound Roquefort cheese<br >
         &frac12; pound butter<br >
         8 eggs, separated<br >
         4 breakfast rolls, crusts removed<br >
         &frac12; cup cream</p>

        <p>The batter is made in the usual way, with the soft
        insides of the rolls simmered in the cream and stirred in.
        The egg whites are folded in last, as always, the batter
        poured into ramekins part full and baked to a golden-brown.
        Then they are served instantaneously, lest they fall.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 110 --><a id="Page_110"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Puff Paste Ramekins</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Puff or other pastry is rolled out fiat and sprinkled
        with fine tasty cheese or any cheese mixture, such as
        Parmesan with Gruy&egrave;re and/or Swiss Sapsago for a
        piquant change, but in lesser quantity than the other
        cheeses used. Parmesan cheese has long been the favorite
        for these.</p>

        <p>Fold paste into 3 layers, roll out again and dust with
        more cheese. Fold once more and roll this out and cut in
        small fancy shapes to bake 10 to 15 minutes in a hot oven.
        Brushing with egg yolk before baking makes these Ramekins
        shine.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Frying Pan Ramekins</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Melt 2 ounces of butter, let it cool a little and then
        mix with &frac12; pound of cheese. Fold in the whites of 3
        eggs, beaten stiff but not dry. Cover frying pan with
        buttered papers, put slices of bread on this and cover with
        the cheese mixture. Cook about 5 minutes, take it off and
        brown it with a salamander.</p>
    </div>

    <p>There are two schools of salamandering among turophiles. One
    holds that it toughens the cheese and makes it less digestible;
    the other that it's simply swell. Some of the latter addicts
    have special cheese-branding irons made with their monograms,
    to identify their creations, whether they be burned on the
    skins of Welsh Rabbits or Frying Pan Ramekins. Salamandering
    with an iron that has a gay, carnivalesque design can make a
    sort of harlequin Ramekin.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Casserole Ramekin</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Here is the Americanization of a French original: In a
        deep casserole lay alternate slices of white bread and
        Swiss cheese, with the cheese slices a bit bigger all
        around. Beat 2 eggs with 2 cups of milk, season with salt
        and&mdash;of all things&mdash;nutmeg! Proceed to bake like
        individual Ramekins.</p>
    </div>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p><!-- Page 111 --><a id="Page_111"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div>
        <img src="images/111.gif" alt="" title="" style="width: 450px; height: 397px">
    </div>

    <div class="rightalign">
        <i>Chapter<br >
         Eight</i>
    </div>

    <h2>Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes, Cheese Cakes, etc.</h2>

    <p>No matter how big or hungry your family, you can always
    appease them with pizza.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Pizza&mdash;The Tomato Pie of
         Sicily</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>DOUGH</p>

        <p>1 package yeast, dissolved in warm water<br >
         2 cups sifted flour<br >
         1 teaspoon salt<br >
         2 tablespoons olive oil</p>

        <p>Make dough of this. Knead 12 to 20 minutes. Pat into a
        ball, cover it tight and let stand 3 hours in warm place
        until twice the size.</p>

        <p><!-- Page 112 --><a id="Page_112"></a>TOMATO PASTE</p>

        <p>3 tablespoons olive oil<br >
         2 large onions, sliced thin<br >
         1 can Italian tomato paste<br >
         8 to 10 anchovy filets, cut small<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon oregano<br >
         Salt<br >
         Crushed chili pepper<br >
         2&frac12; cups water</p>&gt;

        <p>In the oil fry onion tender but not too brown, stir in
        tomato paste and keep stirring 3 or 4 minutes. Season, pour
        water over and simmer slowly 25 to 30 minutes. Add
        anchovies when sauce is done.</p>

        <p>CHEESE</p>

        <p>&frac12; cup grated Italian, Parmesan, Romano or
        Pecorino, depending on your pocketbook</p>

        <p>Procure a low, wide and handsome tin pizza pan, or
        reasonable substitute, and grease well before spreading the
        well-raised dough &frac12; to &frac34; inch thick. Poke
        your finger tips haphazardly into the dough to make marks
        that will catch the sauce when you pour it on generously.
        Shake on Parmesan or Parmesan-type cheese and bake in hot
        oven &frac12; hour, then &frac14; hour more at lower heat
        until the pizza is golden-brown. Cut in wedges like any
        other pie and serve.</p>
    </div>

    <p>The proper pans come all tin and a yard wide, down to
    regular apple-pie size, but twelve-inch pans are the most
    popular.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"><b>Miniature Pizzas</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Miniature pizzas are split English muffins rubbed with
        garlic or onion and brushed with olive oil. Cover with
        tomato sauce and a slice of Mozzarella cheese, anchovy,
        oregano and grated Parmesan, and heat 8 minutes.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 113 --><a id="Page_113"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Italian-Swiss
         Scallopini</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 pound paper-thin veal cutlets<br >
         &frac12; cup flour<br >
         &frac12; cup grated Swiss and Parmesan, mixed<br >
         1 egg yolk, lightly beaten with water<br >
         Butter<br >
         Salt<br >
         Paprika</p>

        <p>Moisten veal with egg and roll in flour mixed with
        cheese, quickly brown, lower flame and cook 4 to 5 minutes
        till tender. Dust with paprika and salt.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, or
         Stuffed Noodles</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 pound lasagne, or other wide noodles<br >
         1&frac12; cups cooked thick tomato sauce with meat<br >
         &frac12; pound Ricotta or cottage cheese<br >
         1 pound Mozzarella or American Cheddar<br >
         &frac14; pound grated Parmesan, Romano or Pecorino<br >
         Salt<br >
         Pepper, preferably crushed red pods<br >
         A shaker filled with grated Parmesan, or reasonable
        substitute</p>

        <p>Cook wide or broad noodles 15 to 20 minutes in rapidly
        boiling salted water until tender, but not soft, and drain.
        Pour &frac12; cup of tomato sauce in baking dish or pan,
        cover with about &frac12; of the noodles, sprinkle with
        grated Parmesan, a layer of sauce, a layer of Mozzarella
        and dabs of Ricotta. Continue in this fashion, alternating
        layers and seasoning each, ending with a final spread of
        sauce, Parmesan and red pepper. Bake firm in moderate oven,
        about 15 minutes, and served in wedges like pizza, with
        canisters of grated Parmesan, crushed red pepper pods and
        more of the sauce to taste.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Little Hats,
         Cappelletti</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Freshly made and still moist Cappelletti, little hats,
        contrived out of tasty paste, may be had in any Little
        Italy macaroni shop. <!-- Page 114 --><a id="Page_114"></a> These may be stuffed sensationally in
           four different flavors with only two cheeses.</p>

        <p>Brown slices of chicken and ham separately, in butter.
        Mince each very fine and divide in half, to make four
        mixtures in equal amounts. Season these with salt, pepper
        and nutmeg and a binding of 2 parts egg yolk to 1 part egg
        white.</p>

        <p>With these meat mixtures you can make four
        different-flavored fillings:</p>

        <p>Ham and Mozzarella Chicken and Mozzarella Ham and
        Ricotta Chicken and Ricotta</p>

        <p>Fill the little hats alternately, so you'll have the
        same number of each different kind. Pinch edges tight
        together to keep the stuffings in while boiling fast for 5
        minutes in chicken broth (or salted water, if you
        must).</p>

        <p>Since these Cappelletti are only a pleasing form and
        shape of ravioli, they are served in the same way on hot
        plates, with plain tomato sauce and Parmesan or reasonable
        substitute. If we count this final seasoning as an
        ingredient, this makes three cheeses, so that each of half
        a dozen taste buds can be getting individual sensations
        without letting the others know what it's doing.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Dauphiny Ravioli</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>This French variant of the famous Italian pockets of
        pastry follows the Cappelletti pattern, with any fresh goat
        cheese and Gruy&egrave;re melted with butter and minced
        parsley and boiled in chicken broth.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Italian Fritters</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>&frac14; cup flour<br >
         2 tablespoons sugar<br >
         &frac14; pound fresh Ricotta<br >
         2 eggs, beaten<br >
         &frac12; cup shredded Mozzarella<br >
         Rind of &frac12; lemon, grated<br >
         3 tablespoons brandy<br >
         Salt<br >
         <!-- Page 115 --><a id="Page_115"></a></p>

        <p>Stir and mix well together in the order given and let
        stand 1 hour or more to thicken the batter so it will hold
        its shape while cooking.</p>

        <p>Shape batter like walnuts and hold one at a time in the
        bowl of a long-handled spoon dipped for 10 seconds in
        boiling hot oil. Fritter the "walnuts" so, and serve at
        once with powdered sugar.</p>

        <p>To make fascinating cheese croquettes, mix several
        contrasting cheeses in this batter.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Italian Asparagus and
         Cheese</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>This gives great scope for contrasting cheeses in one
        and the same dish. In a shallow baking pan put a foundation
        layer of grated Cheddar and a little butter. Cover with a
        layer of tender parts of asparagus, lightly salted; next a
        layer of grated Gruy&egrave;re with a bit of butter, and
        another of asparagus. From here you can go as far as you
        like with varied layers of melting cheeses alternating with
        asparagus, until you come to the top, where you add two
        more kinds of cheese, a mixture of powdered Parmesan with
        Sapsago to give the new-mown hay scent.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Garlic on Cheese</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>For one sandwich prepare 30 or 40 garlic cloves by
        removing skins and frying out the fierce pungence in
        smoking olive oil. They skip in the hot pan like Mexican
        jumping beans. Toast one side of a thickish slice of bread,
        put this side down on a grilling pan, cover it with a slice
        of imported Swiss Emmentaler or Gruy&egrave;re, of about
        the same size, shape and thickness. Stick the cooked garlic
        cloves, while still blistering hot, in a close pattern into
        the cheese and brown for a minute under the grill. Salt
        lightly and dash with paprika for the color. (Recipe by Bob
        Brown in Merle Armitage's collection <i>Fit for a
        King</i>.)</p>
    </div>

    <p>Spaniards call garlic cloves teeth, Englishmen call them
    toes. It was cheese and garlic together that inspired
    Shakespeare to Hotspur's declaration in <i>King Henry
    IV</i>:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <!-- Page 116 -->
            <a id="Page_116"></a> <span>I had rather
                 live<br ></span> <span>With cheese and garlic in
                 a windmill, far,<br ></span> <span>Than feed on
                 cates and have him talk to me<br ></span>
                 <span>In any summer-house in
                 Christendom.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>Some people can take a mere <i>soup&ccedil;on</i> of the
    stuff, while others can down it by the soup spoon, so we feel
    it necessary in reprinting our recipe to point to the warning
    of another early English writer: "Garlic is very dangerous to
    young children, fine women and hot young men."</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Blintzes</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>This snow white member of the cr&ecirc;pes suzette
        sorority is the most popular deb in New York's fancy cheese
        dishes set. Almost unknown here a decade or two ago, it has
        joined blinis, kreplach and cheeseburgers as a quick and
        sustaining lunch for office workers.</p>

        <p>2 eggs<br >
         1 cup water<br >
         1 cup sifted flour<br >
         Salt<br >
         Cooking oil<br >
         &frac12; pound cottage cheese<br >
         2 tablespoons butter<br >
         2 cups sour cream</p>

        <p>Beat 1 egg light and make a batter with the water, flour
        and salt to taste. Heat a well-greased small frying pan and
        make little pancakes with 2 tablespoons of batter each.
        Cook the cakes over low heat and on one side only. Slide
        each cake off on a white cloth, with the cooked side down.
        While these are cooling make the blintz-filling by beating
        together the second egg, cottage cheese and butter. Spread
        each pancake thickly with the mixture and roll or make into
        little pockets or envelopes with the end tucked in to hold
        the filling. Cook in foil till golden-brown and serve at
        once with sufficient sour cream to smother them.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Vatroushki</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Russia seems to have been the cradle of all sorts of
        blinis and blintzes, and perhaps the first, of them to be
        made was <!-- Page 117 --><a id="Page_117"></a> vatroushki, a variant of the blintzes
           above. The chief difference is that rounds of puff paste
           dough are used instead of the hot cakes, 1 teaspoon of
           sugar is added to the cottage cheese filling, and the
           sour cream, &frac12; cup, is mixed into this instead of
           being served with it. Little cups filled with this mix
           are made by pinching the edges of the dough together.
           The tops are brushed with egg yolk and baked in a brisk
           oven.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cottage Cheese
         Pancakes</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 cup prepared pancake<br >
         4 tablespoons top milk or light cream<br >
         1 teaspoon salt<br >
         4 eggs, well beaten<br >
         1 tablespoon sugar<br >
         2 cups cottage cheese, put through ricer</p>

        <p>Mix batter and stir in cheese last until smooth.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Waffles</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 cups prepared waffle flour<br >
         3 egg yolks, lightly beaten<br >
         &frac14; cup melted butter<br >
         &frac34; cup grated sharp Cheddar<br >
         3 egg whites, beaten stiff</p>

        <p>Stir up a smooth waffle batter of the first 4
        ingredients and fold in egg whites last.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Today you can get imported canned Holland cheese waffles to
    heat quickly and serve.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Napkin Dumpling</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 pound cottage cheese<br >
         &#8539; pound butter, softened<br >
         3 eggs, beaten<br >
         &frac34; cup Farina<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon salt<br >
         Cinnamon and brown sugar</p>

        <p>Mix together all ingredients (except the cinnamon and
        sugar) to form a ball. Moisten a linen napkin with cold
        water and tie <!-- Page 118 --><a id="Page_118"></a>the ball of dough in it. Simmer 40 to
           50 minutes in salted boiling water, remove from napkin,
           sprinkle well with cinnamon and brown sugar, and serve.
           This is on the style of Hungarian potato and other
           succulent dumplings and may be served with goulash or as
           a meal in itself.</p>
    </div>

    <div class="cats">
        BUTTER AND CHEESE
    </div>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>Where fish is scant<br ></span> <span>And fruit
            of trees,<br ></span> <span>Supply that
            want<br ></span> <span>With butter and
            cheese.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span class="auth">Thomas Tusser in<br ></span>
            <span class="auth"><i>The Last Remedy</i><br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>Butter and cheese are mixed together in equal parts for
    cheese butter. Serbia has a cheese called Butter that more or
    less matches Turkey's Durak, of which butter is an
    indispensable ingredient, and French Cancoillote is based on
    sour milk simmered with butter.</p>

    <p>The English have a cheese called Margarine, made with the
    butter substitute. In Westphalia there are no two schools of
    thought about whether 'tis better to eat butter with cheese or
    not, for in Westphalia sour-milk cheese, butter is mixed in as
    part of the process of making. The Arabs press curds and butter
    together to store in vats, and the Scots have Crowdie or Cruddy
    Butter.</p>

    <div class="cats">
        BUTTERMILK CHEESE
    </div>

    <p>The value of buttermilk is stressed in an extravagant old
    Hindu proverb: "A man may live without bread, but without
    buttermilk he dies."</p>

    <p>Cheese was made before butter, being the earliest form of
    <!-- Page 119 --><a id="Page_119"></a>dairy manufacturing, so buttermilk cheese
       came well after plain milk cheese, even after whey cheese.
       It is very tasty, and a natural with potato salad. The curd
       is salted after draining and sold in small parchment
       packages.</p>

    <p>German "leather" cheese has buttermilk mixed with the plain.
    The Danes make their Appetitost with sour buttermilk. Ricotta
    Romano, for a novelty, is made of sheep buttermilk.</p>

    <div class="cats">
        COTTAGE CHEESE
    </div>

    <p>In America cottage cheese is also called pot, Dutch and
    smearcase. It is the easiest and quickest to make of all
    cheeses, by simply letting milk sour, or adding buttermilk to
    curdle it, then stand a while on the back of the kitchen stove,
    since it is homemade as a rule. It is drained in a bag of
    cheesecloth and may be eaten the same day, usually salted.</p>

    <p>The Pilgrims brought along the following two tried and true
    recipes from olde England, and both are still in use and good
    repute:</p>

    <p><i>Cottage Cheese No. 1</i></p>

    <p>Let milk sour until clotted. Pour boiling water over and it
    will immediately curd. Stir well and pour into a colander. Pour
    a little cold water on the curd, salt it and break it up
    attractively for serving.</p>

    <p><i>Cottage Cheese No. 2</i></p>

    <p>A very rich and tasty variety is made of equal parts whole
    milk and buttermilk heated together to just under the boiling
    point. Pour into a linen bag and let drain until next day. Then
    remove, salt to taste and add a bit of butter or cream to make
    a smooth, creamy consistency, and pat into balls the size of a
    Seville orange.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 120 --><a id="Page_120"></a></p>

    <div class="cats">
        CREAM CHEESE
    </div>

    <p>In England there are three distinct manners of making cream
    cheese:</p>

    <ol>
        <li>Fresh milk strained and lightly drained.</li>

        <li>Scalded cream dried and drained dry, like
        Devonshire.</li>

        <li>Rennet curd ripened, with thin, edible rind, or none,
        packaged<br >
         in small blocks or miniature bricks by dairy companies,
        as<br >
         in the U.S. Philadelphia Cream cheese.</li>
    </ol>

    <p>American cream cheeses follow the English pattern, being
    named from then: region or established brands owned by
    Breakstone, Borden, Kraft, Shefford, etc.</p>

    <p>Cream cheese such as the first listed above is easier to
    make than cottage cheese or any other. Technically, in fact, it
    is not a cheese but the dried curd of milk and is often called
    virginal. Fresh milk is simply strained through muslin in a
    perforated box through which the whey and extra moisture drains
    away for three or four days, leaving a residue as firm as fresh
    butter.</p>

    <p>In America, where we mix cream cheese with everything, a
    popular assortment of twelve sold in New York bears these
    ingredients and names: Chives, Cherry, Garden, Caviar, Lachs,
    Pimiento, Olive and Pimiento, Pineapple, Relish, Scallion,
    Strawberry, and Triple Decker of Relish, Pimiento and Cream in
    layers.</p>

    <p>In Italy there is Stracchino Cream, in Sweden Chantilly.
    Finally, to come to France, la Fonc&eacute;e or Fromage de Pau,
    a cream also known around the world as Cr&ecirc;me d'Isigny,
    Double Cr&ecirc;me, Fromage &agrave; la Cr&ecirc;me de Gien,
    Pots de Cr&ecirc;me St. Gervais, etc. etc.</p>

    <p>The French go even farther by eating thick fresh cream with
    Chevretons du Beaujolais and Fromage Blanc in the style that
    adds <i>&agrave; la cr&ecirc;me</i> to their already glorified
    names.</p>

    <p>The English came along with Snow Cream Cheese that is more
    of a dessert, similar to Italian Cream Cheese.</p>

    <p>We'd like to have a cheese ice cream to contrast with too
    sweet ones. Attempts at this have been made, both here and in
    England; <!-- Page 121 --><a id="Page_121"></a>Scottish Caledonian cream came closest. We
       have frozen cheese with fruit, to be sure, but no true
       cheese ice cream as yet, though some cream cheeses seem
       especially suitable.</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>The farmer's daughter hath soft brown
            hair<br ></span> <span>(Butter and eggs and a pound of
            cheese)<br ></span> <span>And I met with a ballad I
            can't say where,<br ></span> <span>That wholly
            consisted of lines like these,<br ></span>
            <span>(Butter and eggs and a pound of
            cheese.)<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>In this parody by Calverly, "The Farmer's Daughter," the
    ingredients suggest cheese cake, dating back to 1381 In
    England. From that year Kettner in his <i>Book of the Table</i>
    quotes this recipe:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Take cream of almonds or of cow milk and beat them well
        together; and make small coffins (that is, cases of
        pastry), and do it (put it) therein; and do (put) thereto
        sugar and good powders. Or take good fat cheese and eggs
        and make them of divers colours, green, red or yellow, and
        bake them or serve them forth.</p>
    </div>

    <p>This primitive "receipt" grew up into Richmond maids of
    honor that caused Kettner to wax poetic with:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>At Richmond we are permitted to touch with our lips a
        countless number of these maids&mdash;light and airy as the
        "airy, fairy Lilian." What more can the finest poetry
        achieve in quickening the things of earth into tokens and
        foretastes of heaven, with glimpses of higher life and
        ethereal worlds.</p>
    </div>

    <div class="cats">
        CHEESECAKES
    </div>

    <p><i>Coronation Cheese Cake</i></p>

    <p>The <i>Oxford Dictionary</i> defines cheese cake as a
    "tartlet filled with sweet curds, etc." This shows that the
    cheese is the main thing, and the and-so-forth just a matter of
    taste. We are delighted to record that the Lord Mayor of London
    picked traditional cheese tarts, the maids of honor mentioned
    earlier in this section, as the Coronation dessert with which
    to regale the second Queen Elizabeth at the city luncheon in
    Guildhall This is most <!-- Page 122 -->
     <a id="Page_122"></a>fitting, since these tarts were named
       after the maids of honor at the court of the first Queen
       Elizabeth. The original recipe is said to have sold for a
       thousand pounds. These Richmond maids of honor had the usual
       cheese cake ingredients: butter and eggs and pounds of
       cheese, but what made the subtle flavor: nutmeg, brandy,
       lemon, orange-flower water, or all four?</p>

    <p>More than 2,000 years before this land of Coronation cheese
    cake, the Greeks had a word for it&mdash;several in fact:
    Apician Cheese Cake, Aristoxenean, and Philoxenean among them.
    Then the Romans took it over and we read from an epistle of the
    period:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Thirty times in this one year, Charinus, while you have
        been arranging to make your will, have I sent you cheese
        cakes dripping with Hyblaean Thyme. (Celestial honey, such
        as that of Mount Hymettus we still get from Greece.)</p>
    </div>

    <p>Plato mentioned cheese cake, and a town near Thebes was
    named for it before Christ was born, at a time when cheese
    cakes were widely known as "dainty food for mortal man."</p>

    <p>Today cheese cakes come in a half dozen popular styles, of
    which the ones flavored with fresh pineapple are the most
    popular in New York. But buyers delight in every sort,
    including the one hundred percent American type called cheese
    pies.</p>

    <p>Indeed, there seems to be no dividing line between cheese
    cakes and cheese pies. While most of them are sweet, some are
    made piquant with pimientos and olives. We offer a favorite of
    ours made from popcorn-style pot cheese put through a
    sieve:</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Pineapple Cheese Cake</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2&frac12; pounds sieved pot cheese<br >
         1-inch piece vanilla bean<br >
         &frac14; pound sweet butter, melted<br >
         &frac12; small box graham crackers, crushed fine<br >
         4 eggs<br >
         2 cups sugar<br >
         1 small can crushed pineapple, drained<br >
         2 cups milk<br >
         &#8531; cup flour<br >
         <!-- Page 123 --><a id="Page_123"></a></p>

        <p>In a big bowl mix everything except the graham crackers
        and pineapple in the order given above. Butter a square
        Pyrex pan and put in the graham-cracker dust to make,a
        crust. Cover this evenly with the pineapple and pour in the
        cheese-custard mixture. Bake I hour in a "quiet" oven, as
        the English used to say for a moderate one, and when done
        set aside for 12 hours before eating.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Because of the time and labor involved maybe you had better
    buy your cheese cakes, even though some of the truly fine ones
    cost a dime a bite, especially the pedigreed Jewish-American
    ones in Manhattan. Reuben's and Lindy's are two leaders at
    about five dollars a cake. Some are fruited with cherries or
    strawberries.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Custard</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>4 eggs, slightly beaten<br >
         &frac12; teaspoon salt<br >
         1 cup milk<br >
         A dash of pepper or paprika<br >
         3 tablespoons melted butter<br >
         A few drops of onion juice, if desired<br >
         4 tablespoons grated Swiss (imported)</p>

        <p>Mix all together, set in molds in pan of hot water, and
        bake until brown.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Open-faced Cheese Pie</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>3 eggs<br >
         1 cup sugar<br >
         2 pounds soft smearcase</p>

        <p>Whip everything together and fill two pie crusts. Bake
        without any upper crust.</p>
    </div>

    <p><b>The Apple-pie Affinity</b></p>

    <p>Hot apple pie was always accompanied with cheese in New
    England, even as every slice of apple pie in Wisconsin has
    cheese <!-- Page 124 --><a id="Page_124"></a>for a sidekick, according to law. Pioneer
       hot pies were baked in brick ovens and flavored with nutmeg,
       cinnamon and rose geranium. The cheese was Cheddar, but
       today all sorts of pie and cheese combinations are common,
       such as banana pie and Gorgonzola, mince with Danish Blue,
       pumpkin with cream cheese, peach pie with Habl&eacute;, and
       even a green dusting of Sapsago over raisin pie.</p>

    <p>Apple pie <i>au gratin</i>, thickly grated over with
    Parmesan, Caciocavallo or Sapsago, is something special when
    served with black coffee. Cider, too, or applejack, is a
    natural accompaniment to any dessert of apple with its
    cheese.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Apple Pie Adorned</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Apple pie is adorned with cream and cheese by pressing
        cream cheese through a ricer and folding in plenty of
        double cream beaten thick and salted a little. Put the
        mixture in a pastry tube and decorate top of pie in
        fanciful fashion.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Apple Pie &aacute; la
         Cheese</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Lay a slice of melting cheese on top of apple (or any
        fruit or berry) pie, and melt under broiler 2 to 3
        minutes.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese-crusty Apple
         Pie</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>In making an apple pie, roll out the top crust and
        sprinkle with sharp Cheddar, grated, dot with butter and
        bake golden-brown.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Flan au Fromage</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>To make this Franche-Comt&eacute; tart of crisp paste,
        simply mix coarsely grated Gruy&egrave;re with beaten egg,
        fill the tart cases and bake.</p>

        <p>For any cheese pastry or fruit and custard pie crusts,
        work in tasty shredded sharp Cheddar in the ratio of 1 to 4
        parts of flour.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 125 --><a id="Page_125"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Christmas Cake
         Sandwiches</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>A traditional Christmas carol begs for:</p>
    </div>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>A little bit of spice cake<br ></span> <span>A
            little bit of cheese,<br ></span> <span>A glass of
            cold water,<br ></span> <span>A penny, if you
            please.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>For a festive handout cut the spice cake or fruit cake
        in slices and sandwich them with slices of tasty cheese
        between.</p>

        <p>To maintain traditional Christmas cheer for the elders,
        serve apple pie with cheese and applejack.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Angelic Camembert</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 ripe Camembert, imported<br >
         1 cup Anjou dry white wine<br >
         &frac12; pound sweet butter, softened<br >
         2 tablespoons finely grated toast crumbs</p>

        <p>Lightly scrape all crusty skin from the Camembert and
        when its creamy interior stands revealed put it in a small,
        round covered dish, pour in the wine, cover tightly so no
        bouquet or aroma can possibly escape, and let stand
        overnight.</p>

        <p>When ready to serve drain off and discard any wine left,
        dry the cheese and mash with the sweet butter into an
        angelic paste. Reshape in original Camembert form, dust
        thickly with the crumbs and there you are.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Such a delicate dessert is a favorite with the ladies, since
    some of them find a prime Camembert a bit too strong if taken
    straight.</p>

    <p>Although A. W. Fulton's observation in <i>For Men Only</i>
    is going out of date, it is none the less amusing:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>In the course of a somewhat varied career I have only
        met one woman who appreciated cheese. This quality in her
        seemed to me so deserving of reward that I did not hesitate
        to acquire her hand in marriage.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 126 --><a id="Page_126"></a> Another writer has said that "only
       gourmets among women seem to like cheese, except farm women
       and foreigners." The association between gourmets and farm
       women is borne out by the following urgent plea from early
       Italian landowners:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span><i>Ai contadini non far sapere</i><br ></span>
            <span><i>Quanta &egrave; buono it cacio con le
            pere</i>.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>Don't let the peasants know<br ></span>
            <span>How good are cheese and pears.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>Having found out for ourselves, we suggest a golden slice of
    Taleggio, Stracchino, or pale gold Bel Paese to polish off a
    good dinner, with a juicy Lombardy pear or its American
    equivalent, a Bartlett, let us say.</p>

    <p>This celestial association of cheese and pears is further
    accented by the French:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span><i>Entre la poire et le fromage</i><br ></span>
            <span>Between the pear and the cheese.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>This places the cheese after the fruit, as the last course,
    in accordance with early English usage set down by John Clarke
    in his <i>Paroemiologia</i>:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>After cheese comes nothing.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>But in his <i>Epigrams</i> Ben Jonson serves them
    together.</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>Digestive cheese, and fruit there sure will
            be.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>That brings us back to cheese and pippins:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>I will make an end of my dinner;
            there's<br ></span> <span>pippins and cheese to
            come.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span class="auth">Shakespeare's <i>Merry Wives of
            Windsor</i><br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>When should the cheese be served? In England it is served
    before or after the fruit, with or without the port.</p>

    <p>Following <i>The Book of Keruynge</i> in modern spelling we
    note when it was published in 1431 the proper thing "after
    meat" was "pears, nuts, strawberries, whortleberries (American
    huckle<!-- Page 127 -->
     <a id="Page_127"></a>berries) and hard cheese." In modern
       practice we serve some suitable cheese like Camembert
       directly on slices of apple and pears, Gorgonzola on sliced
       banana, Habl&eacute; spread on pineapple and a cheese
       dessert tray to match the Lazy Lou, with everything crunchy
       down to Crackerjacks. Good, too, are figs, both fresh and
       preserved, stuffed with cream cheese, kumquats, avocados,
       fruity dunking mixtures of Pineapple cheese, served in the
       scooped-out casque of the cheese itself, and apple or pear
       and Provolone creamed and put back in the rind it came in.
       Pots of liquored and wined cheeses, no end, those of your
       own making being the best.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Champagned Roquefort or
         Gorgonzola</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>&frac12; pound mellow Roquefort<br >
         &frac14; pound sweet butter, softened<br >
         A dash cayenne<br >
         &frac34; cup champagne</p>

        <p>With a silver fork mix cheese and butter to a smooth
        paste, moistening with champagne as you go along, using a
        little more or less champagne according to consistency
        desired. Serve with the demitasse and cognac, offering,
        besides crackers, gilt gingerbread in the style of Holland
        Dutch cheese tasters, or just plain bread.</p>
    </div>

    <p>After dinner cheeses suggested by Phil Alpert are:</p>

    <p>FROM FRANCE: Port-Salut, Roblochon, Coulommiers, Camembert,
    Brie, Roquefort, Calvados (try it with a spot of Calvados,
    apple brandy)</p>

    <p>FROM THE U.S.: Liederkranz, Blue, Cheddar</p>

    <p>FROM SWEDEN: Habl&eacute; Cr&ecirc;me Chantilly</p>

    <p>FROM ITALY: Taleggio, Gorgonzola, Provolone, Bel Paese</p>

    <p>FROM HUNGARY: Kascaval</p>

    <p><!-- Page 128 --><a id="Page_128"></a> FROM SWITZERLAND: Swiss
       Gruy&egrave;re</p>

    <p>FROM GERMANY: K&uuml;mmelk&auml;se</p>

    <p>FROM NORWAY: Gjetost, Bondost</p>

    <p>FROM HOLLAND: Edam, Gouda</p>

    <p>FROM ENGLAND: Stilton</p>

    <p>FROM POLAND: Warshawski Syr</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p><!-- Page 129 --><a id="Page_129"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div>
        <img src="images/129.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 308px">
    </div>

    <div class="rightalign">
        <i>Chapter<br >
         Nine</i>
    </div>

    <h2>Au Gratin, Soups, Salads and Sauces</h2>

    <p>He who says <i>au gratin</i> says Parmesan. Thomas Gray, the
    English poet, saluted it two centuries ago with:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>Parma, the happy country where huge cheeses
            grow.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>On September 4, 1666, Pepys recorded the burying of his pet
    Parmesan, "as well as my wine and some other things," in a pit
    in Sir W. Batten's garden. And on the selfsame fourth of
    September, more than a century later, in 1784, Woodforde in his
    <i>Diary of a Country Parson</i> wrote:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>I sent Mr. Custance about 3 doz. more of apricots, and
        he sent me back another large piece of fine Parmesan
        cheese. It was very kind of him.</p>
    </div>

    <p>The second most popular cheese for <i>au gratin</i> is
    Italian Romano, and, for an entirely different flavor, Swiss
    Sapsago. The <!-- Page 130 --><a id="Page_130"></a>French, who gave us this cookery term, use
       it in its original meaning for any dish with a browned
       topping, usually of bread crumbs, or crumbs and cheese. In
       America we think of <i>au gratin</i> as grated cheese only,
       although Webster says, "with a browned covering, often mixed
       with butter or cheese; as, potatoes <i>au gratin</i>." So
       let us begin with that.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Potatoes au Gratin</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>2 cups diced cooked potatoes<br >
         2 tablespoons grated onion<br >
         &frac12; cup grated American Cheddar cheese<br >
         2 tablespoons butter<br >
         &frac12; cup milk<br >
         1 egg<br >
         Salt<br >
         Pepper<br >
         More grated cheese for covering</p>

        <p>In a buttered baking dish put a layer of diced potatoes,
        sprinkle with onion and bits of butter. Next, scatter on a
        thin layer of cheese and alternate with potatoes, onions
        and butter. Stir milk, egg, salt and pepper together and
        pour it on the mixture. Top everything with plenty of
        grated cheese to make it authentically American <i>au
        gratin</i>. Bake until firm in moderate oven, about
        &frac12; hour.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Eggs au Gratin</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Make a white sauce flavored with minced onion to pour
        over any desired number of eggs broken into a buttered
        baking dish. Begin by using half of the sauce and
        sprinkling on a lot of grated cheese. After the eggs are
        in, pour on the rest of the sauce, cover it with grated
        cheese and bread crumbs, drop in bits of butter, and cook
        until brown in oven (or about 12 minutes).</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Tomatoes au Gratin</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Cover bottom of shallow baking pan with slices of tomato
        and sprinkle liberally with bread crumbs and grated cheese,
        season <!-- Page 131 --><a id="Page_131"></a> with salt, pepper and dots of butter,
           add another layer of tomato slices, season as before and
           continue this, alternating with cheese, until pan is
           full. Add a generous topping of crumbs, cheese and
           butter. Bake 50 minutes in moderate oven.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Onion Soup au Gratin</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>4 or 5 onions, sliced<br >
         4 or 5 tablespoons butter<br >
         1 quart stock or canned consomm&eacute;<br >
         1 quart bouillon made from dissolving 4 or 5 cubes<br >
         Rounds of toasted French bread<br >
         1&frac12; cups grated Parmesan cheese</p>

        <p>Saut&eacute; onions in butter in a roomy saucepan until
        light golden, and pour the stock over. When heated put in a
        larger casserole, add the bouillon, season to taste and
        heat to boiling point. Let simmer 15 minutes and serve in
        deep well-heated soup plates, the bottoms covered with
        rounds of toasted French bread which have been heaped with
        freshly grated Parmesan and browned under the broiler. More
        cheese is served for guests to sprinkle on as desired.</p>
    </div>

    <p>At gala parties, where wine flows, a couple of glasses of
    champagne are often added to the bouillon.</p>

    <p>In the famed onion soup <i>au gratin</i> at Les Halles in
    Paris, grated Gruy&egrave;re is used in place of Parmesan. They
    are interchangeable in this recipe.</p>

    <div class="cats">
        AMERICAN CHEESE SOUPS
    </div>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>In this era of fine canned soups a quick cheese soup is
        made by heating cream of tomato soup, ready made, and
        adding finely grated Swiss or Parmesan to taste. French
        bread toasted and topped with more cheese and broiled
        golden makes the best base to pour this over, as is done
        with the French onion soup above.</p>

        <p><!-- Page 132 --><a id="Page_132"></a> The same cheese toasts are the basis
           of a simple milk-cheese soup, with heated milk poured
           over and a seasoning of salt, pepper, chopped chives, or
           a dash of nutmeg.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Chicken Cheese Soup</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Heat together 1 cup milk, 1 cup water in which 2 chicken
        bouillon cubes have been dissolved, and 1 can of condensed
        cream of chicken soup. Stir in &frac14; cup grated American
        Cheddar cheese and season with salt, pepper, and plenty of
        paprika until cheese melts.</p>

        <p>Other popular American recipes simply add grated cheese
        to lima bean or split bean soup, peanut butter soup, or
        plain cheese soup with rice.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Imported French <i>marmites</i> are <i>de rigueur</i> for a
    real onion soup <i>au gratin</i>, and an imported Parmesan
    grinder might be used for freshly ground cheese. In preparing,
    it is well to remember that they are basically only melted
    cheese, melted from the top down.</p>

    <div class="cats">
        CHEESE SALADS
    </div>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>When a Frenchman reaches the salad he is</span>
            <span>resting and in no hurry. He eats the</span>
            <span>salad to prepare himself for the cheese.</span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span class="auth">Henri Charpentier,</span>
            <span class="auth"><i>Life &amp; la Henri</i>.</span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Green Cheese Salad
         Julienne</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Take endive, water cress and as many different kinds of
        crisp lettuce as you can find and mix well with Provolone
        cheese cut in thin julienne strips and marinated 3 to 4
        hours in French dressing. Crumble over the salad some Blue
        cheese and toss everything thoroughly, with plenty of
        French dressing.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 133 --><a id="Page_133"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>American Cheese Salad</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Slice a sweet ripe pineapple thin and sprinkle with
        shredded American Cheddar. Serve on lettuce dipped in
        French dressing.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese and Nut Salad</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Mix American Cheddar with an equal amount of nut meats
        and enough mayonnaise to make a paste. Roll these in little
        balls and serve with fruit salads, dusting lightly with
        finely grated Sapsago.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Brie or Camembert
         Salad</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Fill ripe pear-or peach-halves with creamy imported Brie
        or Camembert, sprinkle with honey, serve on lettuce
        drenched with French dressing and scatter shredded almonds
        over. (Cream cheese will do in a pinch. If the Camembert
        isn't creamy enough, mash it with some sweet cream.)</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Three-in-One Mold</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>&frac34; cup cream cheese<br >
         &frac12; cup grated American Cheddar cheese<br >
         &frac12; cup Roquefort cheese, crumbled<br >
         2 tablespoons gelatin, dissolved and stirred into<br >
         &frac12; cup boiling water<br >
         Juice of 1 lemon<br >
         Salt<br >
         Pepper<br >
         2 cups cream, beaten stiff<br >
         &frac12; cup minced chives</p>

        <p>Mash the cheeses together, season gelatin liquid with
        lemon, salt and pepper and stir into cheese with the
        whipped cream. Add chives last Put in ring mold or any mold
        you fancy, chill well and slice at table to serve on
        lettuce with a little mayonnaise, or plain.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 134 --><a id="Page_134"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Swiss Cheese Salad</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Dice &frac12; pound of cheese into &frac12;-inch cubes.
        Slice one onion very thin. Mix well in a soup plate. Dash
        with German mustard, olive oil, wine vinegar,
        Worcestershire sauce. Salt lightly and grind in plenty of
        black pepper. Then stir, preferably with a wooden spoon so
        you won't mash the cheese, until every hole is drenched
        with the dressing.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Rosie's Swiss Breakfast
         Cheese Salad</b></p>

    <p>Often Emmentaler is cubed in a salad for breakfast, relished
    specially by males on the morning after. We quote the original
    recipe brought over by Rosie from the Swiss Tyrol to thrill the
    writers' and artists' colony of Ridgefield, New Jersey, in her
    brother Emil's White House Inn:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>First Rosie cut a thick slice of prime imported
        Emmentaler into half-inch cubes. Then she mixed imported
        French olive oil, German mustard and Swiss white wine
        vinegar with salt and freshly ground pepper in a deep soup
        plate, sprinkled on a few drops of pepper sauce scattered
        in the chunks of Schweizer and stirred the cubes with a
        light hand, using a wooden fork and spoon to prevent
        bruising.</p>

        <p>The salad was ready to eat only when each and every
        tiny, shiny cell of the Swiss from the homeland had been
        washed, oiled and polished with the soothing mixture.</p>

        <p>"Drink down the juice, too, when you have finished mine
        Breakfast Cheese Salad," Rosie advised the customers. "It
        is the best cure in the world for the worst hangover."</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Gorgonzola and Banana
         Salad</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Slice bananas lengthwise, as for a banana split.
        Sprinkle with lemon juice and spread with creamy
        Gorgonzola. Sluice with French dressing made with lemon
        juice in place of vinegar, to help bring out the natural
        banana flavor of ripe Gorgonzola.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 135 --><a id="Page_135"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese and Pea Salad</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Cube &frac12; pound of American Cheddar and mix with a
        can of peas, 1 cup of diced celery, 1 cup of mayonnaise,
        &frac12; cup of sour cream, and 2 tablespoons each of
        minced pimientos and sweet pickles. Serve in lettuce cups
        with a sprinkling of parsley and chopped radishes.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Apple and Cheese
         Salad</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>&frac12; cup cream cheese<br >
         1 cup chopped pecans<br >
         Salt and pepper<br >
         Apples, sliced &frac12;-inch thick<br >
         Lettuce leaves<br >
         Creamy salad dressing</p>

        <p>Make tiny seasoned cheese balls, center on the apple
        slices standing on lettuce leaves, and sluice with creamy
        salad dressing.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Roquefort Cheese Salad
         Dressing</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>No cheese sauce is easier to make than the American
        favorite of Roquefort cheese mashed with a fork and mixed
        with French dressing. It is often made in a pint Mason jar
        and kept in the refrigerator to shake up on occasion and
        toss over lettuce or other salads.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Unfortunately, even when the Roquefort is the French import,
    complete with the picture of the sheep in red, and <i>garanti
    v&eacute;ritable</i>, the dressing is often ruined by bad
    vinegar and cottonseed oil (of all things). When bottled to
    sell in stores, all sorts of extraneous spice, oils and mustard
    flour are used where nothing more is necessary than the
    manipulation of a fork, fine olive oil and good
    vinegar&mdash;white wine, tarragon or malt. Some ardent
    amateurs must have their splash of Worcestershire sauce or
    lemon juice with salt and pepper. This Roquefort dressing is
    good on all green salads, but on endive it's something
    special.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 136 --><a id="Page_136"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Sauce Mornay</b></p>

    <p>Sauce Mornay has been hailed internationally as "the
    greatest culinary achievement in cheese."</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Nothing is simpler to make. All you do is prepare a
        white sauce (the French Sauce B&eacute;chamel) and add
        grated Parmesan to your liking, stirring it in until melted
        and the sauce is creamy. This can be snapped up with
        cayenne or minced parsley, and when used with fish a little
        of the cooking broth is added.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Plain Cheese Sauce</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 part of any grated cheese to 4 parts of white
        sauce</p>

        <p>This is a mild sauce that is nice with creamed or
        hard-cooked eggs. When the cheese content is doubled, 2
        parts of cheese to 4 of white sauce, it is delicious on
        boiled cauliflower, baked potatoes, macaroni and crackers
        soaked in milk.</p>

        <p>The sauce may be made richer by mixing melted butter
        with the flour in making the white sauce, or by beating egg
        yolk in with the cheese.</p>
    </div>

    <p>From thin to medium to thick it serves divers purposes:</p>

    <p><i>Thin</i>: it may be used instead of milk to make a tasty
    milk toast, sometimes spiced with curry.</p>

    <p><i>Medium</i>: for baking by pouring over crackers soaked in
    milk.</p>

    <p><i>Thick</i>: serves as a sort of Welsh Rabbit when poured
    generously over bread toasted on one side only, with the
    untoasted side up, to let the sauce sink in.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Parsleyed Cheese
         Sauce</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>This makes a mild, pleasantly pungent sauce, to enliven
        the cabbage family&mdash;hot cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage
        and Brussels sprouts. Croutons help when sprinkled
        over.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 137 --><a id="Page_137"></a></p>

    <div class="cats">
        CORNUCOPIA OF CHEESE RECIPES
    </div>

    <p>Since this is the Complete Book of Cheese we will fill a
    bounteous cornucopia here with more or less essential, if not
    indispensable, recipes and dishes not so easy to classify, or
    overlooked or crowded out of the main sections devoted to the
    classic Fondues, Rabbits, Souffl&eacute;s, etc.</p>

    <p><br >
     <i>Stuffed Celery, Endive, Anise and Other Suitable
    Stalks</i></p>

    <p>Use any soft cheese you like, or firm cheese softened by
    pressing through a sieve; at room temperature, of course, with
    any seasoning or relish.</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>SUGGESTIONS:</p>

        <p>Cream cheese and chopped chives, pimientos, olives, or
        all three, with or without a touch of Worcestershire.</p>

        <p>Cottage cheese and piccalilli or chili sauce.</p>

        <p>Sharp Cheddar mixed with mayonnaise, mustard, cream,
        minced capers, pickles, or minced ham.</p>

        <p>Roquefort and other Blues are excellent fillings for
        your favorite vegetable stalk, or scooped-out dill pickle.
        This last is specially nice when filled with snappy cheese
        creamed with sweet butter.</p>

        <p>All canap&eacute; butters are ideally suited to stuffing
        stalks. Pineapple cheese, especially that part close to the
        pineapple-flavored rind, is perfect when creamed.</p>

        <p>A masterpiece in the line of filled stalks: Cut the
        leafy tops off an entire head of celery, endive, anise or
        anything similarly suitable. Wash and separate stalks, but
        keep them in order, to reassemble in the head after each is
        stuffed with a different mixture, using any of the above,
        or a tangy mix of your own concoction.</p>
    </div>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <!-- Page 138 --><a id="Page_138"></a>

        <p>After all stalks are filled, beginning with the baby
        center ones, press them together in the form of the
        original head, tie tight, and chill. When ready, slice in
        rolls about 8-inch thick and arrange as a salad on a bed of
        water cress or lettuce, moistened with French dressing.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cold Dunking</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Besides hot dunking in Swiss Fondue, cold dunking may be
        had by moistening plenty of cream cheese with cream or
        lemon in a dunking bowl. When the cheese is sufficiently
        liquefied, it is liberally seasoned with chopped parsley,
        chives, onions, pimiento and/or other relish. Then a couple
        of tins of anchovies are macerated and stirred in, oil and
        all.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Charlotte</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Line a baking dish from bottom to top with decrusted
        slices of bread dipped in milk. Cream 1 tablespoon of sweet
        butter with 2 eggs and season before stirring in 2 cups of
        grated cheese. Bake until golden brown in slow oven.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Straws</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Roll pastry dough thin and cover with grated Cheddar,
        fold and roll at least twice more, sprinkling with cheese
        each time. Chill dough in refrigerator and cut in
        straw-size strips. Stiffly salt a beaten egg yolk and glaze
        with that to give a salty taste. Bake for several minutes
        until crisp.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Supa Shetgia</b>
         <a id="FNanchor_B_2"></a> <a href="#Footnote_B_2"
       class="fnanchor">[B]</a></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p><i>This is the famous cheese soup of the Engadine and
        little known in this country. One of its seasonings is
        nutmeg and until one has used it in cheese dishes, it is
        hard to describe how perfectly
        <!-- Page 139 --><a id="Page_139"></a> it gives that extra something. The
           recipe, as given, is for each plate, but there is no
           reason why the old-fashioned tureen could not be used
           and the quantities simply increased</i>.</p>

        <p>Put a slice of stale French bread, toasted or not, into
        a soup plate and cover it with 4 tablespoons of grated or
        shredded Swiss cheese. Place another slice of bread on top
        of this and pour over it some boiling milk. Cover the plate
        and let it stand for several minutes. Season with salt,
        pepper and nutmeg. Serve topped with browned, hot butter.
        Use whole nutmeg and grate it freshly.</p>
    </div>

    <div class="footnote">
        <p><a id="Footnote_B_2"></a>
           <a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a>
           (from <i>Cheese Cookery</i>, by Helmut Ripperger)</p>
    </div>

    <div class="cats">
        WITH A CHEESE SHAKER ON THE TABLE
    </div>

    <p>Italians are so dependent on cheese to enrich all their
    dishes, from soups to spaghetti&mdash;and indeed any
    vegetable&mdash;that a shaker of grated Parmesan, Romano or
    reasonable substitute stands ready at every table, or is served
    freshly grated on a side dish. Thus any Italian soup might be
    called a cheese soup, but we know of only one, the great
    minestrone, in which cheese is listed as an indispensable
    ingredient along with the pasta, peas, onion, tomatoes, kidney
    beans, celery, olive oil, garlic, oregano, potatoes, carrots,
    and so forth.</p>

    <p>Likewise, a chunk of melting or toasting cheese is essential
    in the Fritto Misto, the finest mixed grill we know, and it's
    served up as a separate tidbit with the meats.</p>

    <p>Italians grate on more cheese for seasoning than any other
    people, as the French are wont to use more wine in cooking.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Pfeffern&uuml;sse and
         Caraway</b></p>

    <p>The gingery little "pepper nuts," <i>pfeffern&uuml;sse</i>,
    imported from Germany in barrels at Christmastime, make one of
    the best accompaniments to almost any kind of cheese. For
    contrast try a dish of caraway.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 140 --><a id="Page_140"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Diablotins</b></p>

    <p>Small rounds of buttered bread or toast heaped with a mound
    of grated cheese and browned in the oven is a French
    contribution.</p>

    <div class="cats">
        CHEESE OMELETS
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheddar Omelet</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Make a plain omelet your own way. When the mixture has
        just begun to cook, dust over it evenly &frac12; cup grated
        Cheddar.<br >
         (a) Use young Cheddar if you want a mild, bland
        omelet.<br >
         (b) Use sharp, aged Cheddar for a full-flavored one.<br >
         (c) Sprinkle (b) with Worcestershire sauce to make what
        might be called a Wild Omelet.<br >
         Cook as usual. Fold and serve.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Parmesan Omelet</b>
         (mild)</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Cook as above, but use &frac14; cup only of Parmesan,
        grated fine, in place of the &frac12; cup Cheddar.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Parmesan Omelet</b> (full
         flavored)</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>As above, but use &frac12; cup Parmesan, finely grated,
        as follows: Sift &frac14; cup of the Parmesan into your egg
        mixture at the beginning and dust on the second &frac14;
        cup evenly, just as the omelet begins to set.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>A Meal-in-One Omelet</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Fry &frac12; dozen bacon slices crisp and keep hot while
        frying a cup of diced, boiled potatoes in the bacon fat, to
        equal crispness. <!-- Page 141 --><a id="Page_141"></a>Meanwhile make your omelet mixture of
           3 eggs, beaten, and 1&frac12; tablespoons of shredded
           Emmentaler (or domestic Swiss) with 1 tablespoon of
           chopped chives and salt and pepper to taste.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Tomato and</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Make plain omelet, cover with thin rounds of fresh
        tomato and dust well with any grated cheese you like. Put
        under broiler until cheese melts to a golden brown.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Omelet with Cheese
         Sauce</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Make a plain French, fluffy or puffy omelet and when
        finished, cover with a hot, seasoned, reinforced white
        sauce in which &frac14; pound of shredded cheese has been
        melted, and mixed well with &frac12; cup cooked, diced
        celery and 1 tablespoon of pimiento, minced.</p>
    </div>

    <p>The French use grated Gruy&egrave;re for this with all sorts
    of sauces, such as the <i>Savoyar de Savoie</i>, with potatoes,
    chervil, tarragon and cream. A delicious appearance and added
    flavor can be had by browning with a salamander.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Spanish
         Flan&mdash;Quesillo</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>FOR THE CARAMEL:<br >
         &frac12; cup sugar<br >
         4 tablespoons water<br >
        <br >
         FOR THE FLAN:<br >
         4 eggs, beaten separately<br >
         2 cups hot milk<br >
         &frac12; cup sugar<br >
         Salt</p>

        <p>Brown sugar and mix with water to make the caramel. Pour
        it into a baking mold.</p>

        <p>Make Flan by mixing together all the ingredients. Add to
        carameled mold and bake in pan of water in moderate oven
        about &frac34; hour.</p>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 142 --><a id="Page_142"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Italian Fritto Misto</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>The distinctive Italian Mixed Fry, Fritto Misto, is made
        with whatever fish, sweetbreads, brains, kidneys, or
        tidbits of meat are at hand, say a half dozen different
        cubes of meat and giblets, with as many hearts of
        artichokes, <i>finocchi</i>, tomato, and different
        vegetables as you can find, but always with a hunk of
        melting cheese, to fork out in golden threads with each
        mouthful of the mixture.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Polish Piroghs</b> (a
         pocketful of cheese)</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Make noodle dough with 2 eggs and 2 cups of flour, roll
        out very thin and cut in 2-inch squares.</p>

        <p>Cream a cupful of cottage cheese with a tablespoon of
        melted butter, flavor with cinnamon and toss in a handful
        of seedless currents.</p>

        <p>Fill pastry squares with this and pinch edges tight
        together to make little pockets.</p>

        <p>Drop into a lot of fast-boiling water, lightly salted,
        and boil steadily 30 minutes, lowering the heat so the
        pockets won't burst open.</p>

        <p>Drain and serve on a piping hot platter with melted
        butter and a sprinkling of bread crumbs.</p>

        <p>This is a cross between ravioli and blintzes.</p>
    </div>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheesed Mashed
         Potatoes</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Whip into a steaming hot dish of creamily mashed
        potatoes some old Cheddar with melted butter and a
        crumbling of crisp, cooked bacon.</p>
    </div>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <p>If there's a chafing dish handy, a first-rate nightcap can
    be made via a</p>

    <p><!-- Page 143 --><a id="Page_143"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Saut&eacute;ed Swiss
         Sandwich</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Tuck a slice of Swiss cheese between two pieces of
        thickly buttered bread, trim crusts, cut sandwich in two,
        surround it with one well-beaten egg, slide it into
        sizzling butter and fry on both sides. A chef at the New
        York Athletic Club once improved on this by first
        sandwiching the Swiss between a slice of ham and a slice of
        chicken breast, then beating up a brace of eggs with a
        jigger of heavy sweet cream and soaking his sandwich in
        this until it sopped up every drop. A final frying in sweet
        butter made strong men cry for it.</p>
    </div>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p><!-- Page 144 --><a id="Page_144"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div>
        <img src="images/144.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 338px">
    </div>

    <div class="rightalign">
        <i>Chapter<br >
         Ten</i>
    </div>

    <h2>Appetizers, Crackers, Sandwiches, Savories,<br >
     Snacks, Spreads and Toasts</h2>

    <p>In America cheese got its start in country stores in our
    cracker-barrel days when every man felt free to saunter in,
    pick up the cheese knife and cut himself a wedge from the
    big-bellied rattrap cheese standing under its glass bell or
    wire mesh hood that kept the flies off but not the
    free-lunchers. Cheese by itself being none too palatable, the
    taster would saunter over to the cracker barrel, shoo the cat
    off and help himself to the old-time crackers that can't be
    beat today.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 145 --><a id="Page_145"></a> At that time Wisconsin still belonged to
       the Indians and Vermont was our leading cheese state, with
       its Sage and Cheddar and Vermont Country Store Crackers, as
       Vrest Orton of Weston Vermont, calls them. When Orton heard
       we were writing this book, he sent samples from the store
       his father started in 1897 which is still going strong.
       Together with the Vermont Good Old-fashioned Natural Cheese
       and the Sage came a handy handmade Cracker Basket, all
       wicker, ten crackers long and just one double cracker wide.
       A snug little casket for those puffy, old-time, two-in-one
       soda biscuits that have no salt to spoil the taste of the
       accompanying cheese. Each does double duty because it's made
       to split in the middle, so you can try one kind of cheese on
       one half and another on t'other, or sandwich them
       between.</p>

    <p>Some Pied Piper took the country cheese and crackers to the
    corner saloon and led a free-lunch procession that never
    faltered till Prohibition came. The same old store cheese was
    soon pepped up as saloon cheese with a saucer of caraway seeds,
    bowls of pickles, peppers, pickled peppers and rye bread with
    plenty of mustard, pretzels or cheese straws, smearcase and
    schwarzbrot. Beer and cheese forever together, as in the
    free-lunch ditty of that great day:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>I am an Irish hunter;<br ></span> <span>I am, I
            ain't.<br ></span> <span>I do not hunt for
            deer<br ></span> <span>But beer.<br ></span>
            <span>Oh, Otto, wring the bar rag.<br ></span>
        </div>

        <div class="stanza">
            <span>I do not hunt for fleas<br ></span> <span>But
            cheese.<br ></span> <span>Oh, Adolph, bring the free
            lunch.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p>It was there and then that cheese came of age from coast to
    coast. In every bar there was a choice of Swiss, Cottage,
    Limburger&mdash;manly cheeses, walkie-talkie oldsters that
    could sit up and beg, golden yellow, tangy mellow, always cut
    in cubes. <!-- Page 146 --><a id="Page_146"></a>Cheese takes the cube form as naturally as
       eggs take the oval and honeycombs the hexagon.</p>

    <p>On the more elegant handout buffets, besides the shapely
    cubes, free Welsh Rabbit started at four every afternoon, to
    lead the tired businessman in by the nose; or a smear of
    Canadian Snappy out of a pure white porcelain pot in the classy
    places, on a Bent's water biscuit.</p>

    <div class="cats">
        SANDWICHES AND SAVORY SNACKS
    </div>

    <p>Next to nibbling cheese with crackers and appetizers, of
    which there is no end in sight, cheese sandwiches help us
    consume most of our country's enormous output of Brick, Cheddar
    and Swiss. To attempt to classify and describe all of these
    would be impossible, so we will content ourselves by picking a
    few of the cold and hot, the plain and the fancy, the familiar
    and the exotic. Let's use the alphabet to sum up the
    situation.</p>

    <p><br >
     <b>A &nbsp; &nbsp; Alpine Club Sandwich</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Spread toasts with mayonnaise and fill with a thick
        slice of imported Emmentaler, well-mustarded and seasoned,
        and the usual club-sandwich toppings of thin slices of
        chicken or turkey, tomato, bacon and a lettuce leaf.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>B &nbsp; &nbsp; Boston Beany, Open-face</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Lightly butter a slice of Boston brown bread, cover it
        generously with hot baked beans and a thick layer of
        shredded Cheddar. Top with bacon and put under a slow
        broiler until cheese melts and the bacon crisps.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>C &nbsp; &nbsp; Cheeseburgers</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Pat out some small seasoned hamburgers exceedingly thin
        and, using them instead of slices of bread, sandwich in a
        nice <!-- Page 147 --><a id="Page_147"></a>slice of American Cheddar well covered
           with mustard. Crimp edges of the hamburgers all around
           to hold in the cheese when it melts and begins to run.
           Toast under a brisk boiler and serve on soft, toasted
           sandwich buns.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>D &nbsp; &nbsp; Deviled Rye</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Butter flat Swedish rye bread and heat quickly in hot
        oven. Cool until crisp again. Then spread thickly with
        cream cheese, bedeviled with catsup, paprika or
        pimiento.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>E &nbsp; &nbsp; Egg, Open-faced</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Saut&eacute; minced small onion and small green pepper
        in 2 tablespoons of butter and make a sauce by cooking with
        a cup of canned tomatoes. Season and reduce to about half.
        Fry 4 eggs and put one in the center of each of 4 pieces of
        hot toast spread with the red sauce. Sprinkle each
        generously with grated Cheddar, broil until melted and
        serve with crisp bacon.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>F &nbsp; &nbsp; French-fried Swiss</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Simply make a sandwich with a noble slice of imported
        Gruy&egrave;re, soak it in beaten egg and milk and fry
        slowly till cheese melts and the sandwich is nicely
        browned. This is a specialty of Franche-Comt&eacute;.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>G &nbsp; &nbsp; Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Cut crusts from 2 slices of white bread and butter them
        on both sides. Make a sandwich of these with 1 slice cooked
        chicken, &frac12; slice sharp Cheddar cheese, and a
        sprinkling of minced ham. Fasten tight with toothpicks, cut
        in half and dip thoroughly in a mixture of egg and milk.
        Grill golden on both sides and serve with lengthwise slices
        of dill pickle.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <!-- Page 148 --><a id="Page_148"></a> <b>H &nbsp; &nbsp; He-man Sandwich,
       Open-faced</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Butter a thick slice of dark rye bread, cover with a
        layer of mashed cold baked beans and a slice of ham, then
        one of Swiss cheese and a wheel of Bermuda onion topped
        with mustard and a sowing of capers.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>I &nbsp; &nbsp; International Sandwich</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Split English muffins and toast on the hard outsides,
        cover soft, untoasted insides with Swiss cheese, spread
        lightly with mustard, top that with a wheel of Bermuda
        onion and 1 or 2 slices of Italian-type tomato. Season with
        cayenne and salt, dot with butter, cover with Brazil nuts
        and brown under the broiler.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>J &nbsp; &nbsp; Jurassiennes, or Cro&ucirc;tes
    Comtoises</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Soak slices of stale buns in milk, cover with a mixture
        of onion browned in chopped lean bacon and mixed with
        grated Gruy&egrave;re. Simmer until cheese melts, and
        serve.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>K &nbsp; &nbsp; K&uuml;mmelk&auml;se</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>If you like caraway flavor this is your sandwich: On
        well-buttered but lightly mustarded rye, lay a thickish
        slab of Milwaukee K&uuml;mmelk&auml;se, which translates
        caraway cheese. For good measure sprinkle caraway seeds on
        top, or serve them in a saucer on the side. Then dash on a
        splash of k&uuml;mmel, the caraway liqueur that's best when
        imported.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>L &nbsp; &nbsp; Limburger Onion or Limburger Catsup</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Marinate slices of Bermuda onion in a peppery French
        dressing for &frac12; hour. Then butter slices of rye,
        spread well with soft Limburger, top with onion and you
        will have something super-duper&mdash;if you like
        Limburger. <!-- Page 149 --><a id="Page_149"></a></p>

        <p>When catsup is substituted for marinated onion the
        sandwich has quite another character and flavor, so true
        Limburger addicts make one of each and take alternate bites
        for the thrill of contrast.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>M &nbsp; &nbsp; Meringue, Open-faced</b> (from the Browns'
    <i>10,000 Snacks</i>)</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Allow 1 egg and 4 tablespoons of grated cheese to 1
        slice of bread. Toast bread on one side only, spread butter
        on untoasted side, put 2 tablespoons grated cheese over
        butter, and the yolk of an egg in the center. Beat egg
        white stiff with a few grains of salt and pile lightly on
        top. Sprinkle the other 2 tablespoons of grated cheese over
        that and bake in moderate oven until the egg white is firm
        and the cheese has melted to a golden-brown.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>N &nbsp; &nbsp; Neufch&acirc;tel and Honey</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>We know no sandwich more ethereal than one made with
        thin, decrusted, white bread, spread with sweet butter,
        then with Neufch&acirc;tel topped with some fine
        honey&mdash;Mount Hymettus, if possible.</p>

        <p>Any creamy Petit Suisse will do as well as the
        Neufch&acirc;tel, but nothing will take the place of the
        honey to make this heavenly sandwich that must have been
        the original ambrosia.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>O &nbsp; &nbsp; Oskar's Ham-Cam</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Oskar Davidsen of Copenhagen, whose five-foot menu lists
        186 superb sandwiches and snacks, each with a character all
        its own, perfected the Ham-Cam base for a flock of fancy
        ham sandwiches, open-faced on rye or white, soft or crisp,
        sweet or sour, almost any one-way slice you desire. He uses
        as many contrasting kinds of bread as possible, and his
        butter varies from salt to fresh and whipped. The Ham-Cam
        base involves "a juicy, tender slice of freshly boiled,
        mild-cured ham" with imported Camembert spread on the ham
        as thick as velvet.</p>

        <p><!-- Page 150 --><a id="Page_150"></a> The Ham-Cam is built up with such
           splendors as "goose liver paste and Madeira wine jelly,"
           "fried calves' kidney and <i>r&eacute;moulade</i>,"
           "Bombay curry salad," "bird's liver and fried egg," "a
           slice of red roast beef" and more of that red Madeira
           jelly, with anything else you say, just so long as it
           does credit to Camembert on ham.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>P &nbsp; &nbsp; Pickled Camembert</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Butter a thin slice of rye or pumpernickel and spread
        with ripe imported Camembert, when in season (which isn't
        summer). Make a mixture of sweet, sour and dill pickles,
        finely chopped, and spread it on. Top this with a thin
        slice of white bread for pleasing contrast with the
        black.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>Q &nbsp; &nbsp; Queijo da Serra Sandwich</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>On generous rounds of French "flute" or other crunchy,
        crusty white bread place thick portions of any good
        Portuguese cheese made of sheep's milk "in the mountains."
        This last translates back into Queijo da Serra, the
        fattest, finest cheese in the world&mdash;on a par with
        fine Greek Feta. Bead the open-faced creamy cheese lightly
        with imported capers, and you'll say it's scrumptious.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>R &nbsp; &nbsp; Roquefort Nut</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Butter hot toast and cover with a thickish slice of
        genuine Roquefort cheese. Sprinkle thickly with genuine
        Hungarian paprika. Put in moderate oven for about 6
        minutes. Finish it off with chopped pine nuts, almonds, or
        a mixture thereof.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>S &nbsp; &nbsp; Smoky Sandwich and Sturgeon-smoked
    Sandwich</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Skin some juicy little, jolly little sprats, lay on thin
        rye, or a slice of miniature-loaf rye studded with caraway,
        spread with sweet butter and cover with a slice of smoked
        cheese.</p>

        <p><!-- Page 151 --><a id="Page_151"></a> Hickory is preferred for most of the
           smoking in America. In New York the best smoked cheese,
           whether from Canada or nearer home, is usually cured in
           the same room with sturgeon. Since this king of smoked
           fish imparts some of its regal savor to the Cheddar,
           there is a natural affinity peculiarly suited to
           sandwiching as above.</p>

        <p>Smoked salmon, eel, whitefish or any other, is also good
        with cheese smoked with hickory or anything with a
        salubrious savor, while a sandwich of smoked turkey with
        smoked cheese is out of this world. We accompany it with a
        cup of smoky Lapsang Soochong China tea.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>T &nbsp; &nbsp; Tangy Sandwich</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>On buttered rye spread cream cheese, and on this bed lay
        thinly sliced dried beef. In place of mustard dot the beef
        with horseradish and pearl onions or those reliable old
        chopped chives. And by the way, if you must use mustard on
        every cheese sandwich, try different kinds for a change:
        sharp English freshly mixed by your own hand out of the tin
        of powder, or Dijon for a French touch.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>U &nbsp; &nbsp; Unusual Sandwich&mdash;of Flowers, Hay and
    Clover</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>On a sweet-buttered slice of French white bread lay a
        layer of equally sweet English Flower cheese (made with
        petals of rose, marigold, violet, etc.) and top that with
        French Fromage de foin. This French hay cheese gets its
        name from being ripened on hay and holds its new-mown
        scent. Sprinkle on a few imported capers (the smaller they
        are, the better), with a little of the luscious juice, and
        dust lightly with Sapsago.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>V &nbsp; &nbsp; Vegetarian Sandwich</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Roll your own of alternate leaves of lettuce, slices of
        store cheese, avocados, cream cheese sprinkled heavily with
        chopped <!-- Page 152 --><a id="Page_152"></a>chives, and anything else in the
           Vegetable or Caseous Kingdoms that suits your fancy.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>W &nbsp; &nbsp; Witch's Sandwich</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Butter 2 slices of sandwich bread, cover one with a thin
        slice of imported Emmentaler, dash with cayenne and a drop
        or two of tabasco. Slap on a sizzling hot slice of grilled
        ham and press it together with the cheese between the two
        bread slices, put in a hot oven and serve piping hot with a
        handful of "moonstones"&mdash;those outsize pearl
        onions.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>X &nbsp; &nbsp; Xochomilco Sandwich</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>In spite of the "milco" in Xochomilco, there isn't a
        drop to be had that's native to the festive, floating
        gardens near Mexico City. For there, instead of the cow, a
        sort of century plant gives milky white <i>pulque</i>, the
        fermented juice of this cactuslike desert plant. With this
        goes a vegetable cheese curded by its own vegetable rennet.
        It's called tuna cheese, made from the milky juice of the
        prickly pear that grows on yet another cactuslike plant of
        the dry lands. This tuna cheese sometimes teams up in arid
        lands with the juicy thick cactus leaf sliced into a
        tortilla sandwich. The milky <i>pulque</i> of Xochomilco
        goes as well with it as beer with a Swiss cheese
        sandwich.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>Y &nbsp; &nbsp; Yolk Picnic Sandwich</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Hard-cooked egg yolk worked into a yellow paste with
        cream cheese, mustard, olive oil, lemon juice, celery salt
        and a touch of tabasco, spread on thick slices of whole
        wheat bread.</p>
    </div>

    <p><br >
    <b>Z &nbsp; &nbsp; Zebra</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Take a tip from Oskar over in Copenhagen and design your
        own Zebra sandwich as decoratively as one of those
        oft-photoed <!-- Page 153 --><a id="Page_153"></a>skins in El Morocco. Just alternate
           stripes of black bread with various white cheeses in
           between, to follow, the black and white zebra
           pattern.</p>
    </div>

    <p>For good measure we will toss in a couple of toasted cheese
    sandwiches.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Toasted Cheese
         Sandwich</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Butter both sides of 2 thick slices of white bread and
        sandwich between them a seasoned mixture of shredded sharp
        cheese, egg yolk, mustard and chopped chives, together with
        stiffly beaten egg white folded in last to make a light
        filling. Fry the buttered sandwich in more butter until
        well melted and nicely gilded.</p>
    </div>

    <p>This toasted cheeser is so good it's positively sinful. The
    French, who outdo us in both cooking and sin, make one of their
    own in the form of fried fingers of stale bread doused in an
    'arf and 'arf Welsh Rabbit and Fondue melting of
    Gruy&egrave;re, that serves as a liaison to further sandwich
    the two.</p>

    <p>Garlic is often used in place of chopped chives, and in
    contrast to this wild one there's a mild one made of Dutch
    cream cheese by the equally Dutch Pennsylvanians.</p>

    <p>England, of course, together with Wales, holds all-time
    honors with such celebrated regional "toasting cheeses" as
    Devonshire and Dunlop. Even British Newfoundland is known for
    its simple version, that's quite as pleasing as its rich Prince
    Edward Island Oyster Stew.</p>

    <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Newfoundland Toasted Cheese
         Sandwich</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>1 pound grated Cheddar<br >
         1 egg, well beaten<br >
         &frac12; cup milk<br >
         1 tablespoon butter</p>

        <p>Heat together and pour over well-buttered toast.</p>
    </div>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p><!-- Page 154 --><a id="Page_154"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div>
        <img src="images/154.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 391px; height: 390px">
    </div>

    <div class="rightalign">
        <i>Chapter<br >
         Eleven</i>
    </div>

    <h2>"Fit for Drink"</h2>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>A country without a fit drink for cheese has no cheese
        fit for drink.</p>
    </div>

    <p>Greece was the first country to prove its epicurean fitness,
    according to the old saying above, for it had wine to tipple
    and sheep's milk cheese to nibble. The classical Greek cheese
    has always been Feta, and no doubt this was the kind that Circe
    combined most suitably with wine to make a farewell drink for
    her lovers. She put further sweetness and body into the stirrup
    cup by stirring honey and barley meal into it. Today we might
    whip this up in an electric mixer to toast her memory.</p>

    <p>While a land flowing with milk and honey is the ideal of
    many, France, Italy, Spain or Portugal, flowing with wine and
    honey, suit a lot of gourmets better. Indeed, in such
    vinous-caseous places cheese is on the house at all wine sales
    for prospective customers to snack upon and thus bring out the
    full flavor of the <!-- Page 155 --><a id="Page_155"></a>cellared vintages. But professional wine
       tasters are forbidden any cheese between sips. They may
       clear their palates with plain bread, but nary a crumb of
       Roquefort or cube of Gruy&egrave;re in working hours, lest
       it give the wine a spurious nobility.</p>

    <p>And, speaking of Roquefort, Roman&eacute;e has the closest
    affinity for it. Such affinities are also found in Pont
    l'Ev&ecirc;que and Beaujolais, Brie and red champagne,
    Coulommiers and any good <i>vin ros&eacute;</i>. Heavenly
    marriages are made in Burgundy between red and white wines of
    both C&ocirc;tes, de Nuits and de Baune, and Burgundian cheeses
    such as Epoisses, Soumaintarin and Saint-Florentin. Pommard and
    Port-Salut seem to be made for each other, as do Ch&acirc;teau
    Margaux and Camembert.</p>

    <p>A great cheese for a great wine is the rule that brings
    together in the neighboring provinces such notables as Sainte
    Maure, Valen&ccedil;ay, Vend&ocirc;me and the Loire
    wines&mdash;Vouvray, Saumur and Anjou. Gruy&egrave;re mates
    with Chablis, Camembert with St. Emilion; and any dry red wine,
    most commonly claret, is a fit drink for the hundreds of other
    fine French cheeses.</p>

    <p>Every country has such happy marriages, an Italian standard
    being Provolone and Chianti. Then there is a most unusual pair,
    French Neufch&acirc;tel cheese and Swiss Neuch&acirc;tel wine
    from just across the border. Switzerland also has another
    cheese favorite at home&mdash;Trauben (grape cheese), named
    from the Neuch&acirc;tel wine in which it is aged.</p>

    <p>One kind of French Neufch&acirc;tel cheese, Bondon, is also
    uniquely suited to the company of any good wine because it is
    made in the exact shape and size of a wine barrel bung. A
    similar relation is found in Brinzas (or Brindzas) that are
    packed in miniature wine barrels, strongly suggesting what
    should be drunk with such excellent cheeses: Hungarian Tokay.
    Other foreign cheeses go to market wrapped in vine leaves. The
    affinity has clearly been laid down in heaven.</p>

    <p>Only the English seem to have a <i>fortissimo</i> taste in
    the go-with wines, according to these matches registered by
    Andr&eacute; Simon in <i>The Art of Good Living:</i></p>

    <p><!-- Page 156 --><a id="Page_156"></a></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        Red Cheshire with Light Tawny Port<br >
         White Cheshire with Oloroso Sherry<br >
         Blue Leicester with Old Vintage Port<br >
         Green Roquefort with New Vintage Port
    </div>

    <p>To these we might add brittle chips of Greek Casere with
    nips of Amontillado, for an eloquent appetizer.</p>

    <p>The English also pour port into Stilton, and sundry other
    wines and liquors into Cheddars and such. This doctoring leads
    to fraudulent imitation, however, for either port or stout is
    put into counterfeit Cheshire cheese to make up for the
    richness it lacks.</p>

    <p>While some combinations of cheeses and wines may turn out
    palatable, we prefer taking ours straight. When something more
    fiery is needed we can twirl the flecks of pure gold in a
    chalice of Eau de Vie de Danzig and nibble on legitimate Danzig
    cheese unadulterated. <i>Goldwasser</i>, or Eau de Vie, was a
    favorite liqueur of cheese-loving Franklin Roosevelt, and we
    can be sure he took the two separately.</p>

    <p>Another perfect combination, if you can take it, is imported
    k&uuml;mmel with any caraway-seeded cheese, or cream cheese
    with a handy saucer of caraway seeds. In the section of France
    devoted to gin, the juniper berries that flavor the drink also
    go into a local cheese, Fromage Fort. This is further fortified
    with brandy, white wine and pepper. One regional tipple with
    such brutally strong cheese is black coffee laced with gin.</p>

    <p>French la Jonch&eacute;e is another potted thriller with not
    only coffee and rum mixed in during the making, but orange
    flower water, too. Then there is la Petafina, made with brandy
    and absinthe; Hazebrook with brandy alone; and la Cachat with
    white wine and brandy.</p>

    <p>In Italy white Gorgonzola is also put up in crocks with
    brandy. In Oporto the sharp cheese of that name is enlivened by
    port, Cider and the greatest of applejacks, Calvados, seem made
    to go the regional Calvados cheese. This is also true of our
    native Jersey Lightning and hard cider with their accompanying
    New <!-- Page 157 --><a id="Page_157"></a>York State cheese. In the Auge Valley of
       France, farmers also drink homemade cider with their own
       Augelot, a piquant kind of Pont l'Ev&ecirc;que.</p>

    <p>The English sip pear cider (perry) with almost any British
    cheese. Milk would seem to be redundant, but Sage cheese and
    buttermilk do go well together.</p>

    <p>Wine and cheese have other things in common. Some wines and
    some cheeses are aged in caves, and there are vintage cheeses
    no less than vintage wines, as is the case with Stilton.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p><!-- Page 158 --><a id="Page_158"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div>
        <img src="images/158.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 390px">
    </div>

    <div class="rightalign">
        <i>Chapter<br >
         Twelve</i>
    </div>

    <h2>Lazy Lou</h2>

    <p>Once, so goes the sad story, there was a cheesemonger
    unworthy of his heritage. He exported a shipload of inferior
    "Swiss" made somewhere in the U.S.A. Bad to begin with, it had
    worsened on the voyage. Rejected by the health authorities on
    the other side, it was shipped back, reaching home in the
    unhappy condition known as "cracked." To cut his losses the
    rascally cheesemonger had his cargo ground up and its flavor
    disguised with hot peppers and chili sauce. Thus there came
    into being the abortion known as the "cheese spread."</p>

    <p>The cheese spread or "food" and its cousin, the processed
    cheese, are handy, cheap and nasty. They are available every
    <!-- Page 159 -->
     <a id="Page_159"></a>where and some people even like them. So
       any cheese book is bound to take formal notice of their
       existence. I have done so&mdash;and now, an unfond farewell
       to them.</p>

    <p>My academic cheese education began at the University of
    Wisconsin in 1904. I grew up with our great Midwest industry; I
    have read with profit hundreds of pamphlets put out by the
    learned Aggies of my Alma Mater. Mostly they treat of honest,
    natural cheeses: the making, keeping and enjoying of authentic
    Longhorn Cheddars, short Bricks and naturalized Limburgers.</p>

    <p>At the School of Agriculture the students still, I am told,
    keep their hand in by studying the classical layout on a cheese
    board. One booklet recommends the following for freshman
    contemplation:</p>

    <div class="center">
        <table style="padding: 4px;">
            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">CARAWAY BRICK</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">SELECT BRICK</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">EDAM</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">WISCONSIN SWISS</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">LONGHORN AMERICAN</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">SHEFFORD</td>
            </tr>
        </table>
    </div>

    <p>These six sturdy samples of Wisconsin's best will stimulate
    any amount of classroom discussion. Does the Edam go better
    with German-American black bread or with Swedish Ry-Krisp? To
    butter or not to butter? And if to butter, with which cheese?
    Salt or sweet? How close do we come to the excellence of the
    genuine Alpine Swiss? Primary school stuff, but not unworthy of
    thought.</p>

    <p>Pass on down the years. You are now ready to graduate. Your
    cheese board can stand a more sophisticated setup. Try two
    boards; play the teams against each other.</p>

    <div class="center">
        <table style="padding: 2px;">
            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"><b>The All-American Champs</b></td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">NEW YORK COON</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">PHILADELPHIA CREAM</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">OHIO LIEDERKRANZ</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">VERMONT SAGE</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">KENTUCKY TRAPPIST</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">WISCONSIN LIMBURGER</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: right;">CALIFORNIA JACK</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">PINEAPPLE</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: right;">MINNESOTA BLUE</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">BRICK</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>

                <td style="text-align: center;">TILLAMOOK</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>
            </tr>
        </table>

        <p><!-- Page 160 --><a id="Page_160"></a></p>

        <p class="center"><b>VS.</b></p>

        <table style="padding: 4px;">
            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"><b>The European Giants</b></td>

                <td style="text-align: left;"></td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">PORTUGUESE TRAZ-</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">DUTCH GOUDA</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">ITALIAN PARMESAN</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;OS-MONTES</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">FRENCH ROQUEFORT</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">SWISS EMMENTALER</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">YUGOSLAVIAN KACKAVALJ</td>
                <td></td>
                <td></td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td colspan="3">
                    <table style="width: 80%;">
                        <tr>
                            <td style="text-align: left;">ENGLISH STILTON</td>

                            <td style="text-align: left;"></td>

                            <td style="text-align: left;">DANISH BLUE</td>
                        </tr>

                        <tr>
                            <td style="text-align: left;">GERMAN M&Uuml;NSTER</td>

                            <td style="text-align: left;"></td>

                            <td style="text-align: left;">GREEK FETA</td>
                        </tr>

                        <tr>
                            <td style="text-align: center;">HABL&Eacute;</td>
                            <td></td>
                            <td></td>
                        </tr>
                    </table>
                </td>
            </tr>
        </table>
    </div>

    <p>The postgraduate may play the game using as counters the
    great and distinctive cheeses of more than fifty countries.
    Your Scandinavian board alone, just to give an idea of the
    riches available, will shine with blues, yellows, whites, smoky
    browns, and chocolates representing Sweden, Norway, Denmark,
    Finland, Iceland and Lapland.</p>

    <p>For the Britisher only blue-veined Stilton is worthy to
    crown the banquet. The Frenchman defends Roquefort, the Dane
    his own regal Blue; the Swiss sticks to Emmentaler before,
    during and after all three meals. You may prefer to finish with
    a delicate Brie, a smoky slice of Provolone, a bit of Baby
    Gouda, or some Liptauer Garniert, about which more later.</p>

    <p>We load them all on Lazy Lou, Lazy Susan's big twin brother,
    a giant roulette wheel of cheese, every number a winner. A
    second Lazy Lou will bear the savories and go-withs. For these
    tidbits the English have a divine genius; think of the deviled
    shrimps, smoked oysters, herring roe on toast, snips of broiled
    sausage ... But we will make do with some olives and radishes,
    a few pickles, nuts, capers. With our two trusty Lazy Lous on
    hand plus wine or beer, we can easily dispense with the mere
    dinner itself.</p>

    <p>Perhaps it is an Italian night. Then Lazy Lou is happily
    burdened with imported Latticini; Incanestrato, still bearing
    the imprint of its wicker basket; Pepato, which is but
    Incanestrato peppered; Mel Fina; deep-yellow, buttery Scanno
    with its slightly burned flavor; tangy Asiago; Caciocavallo, so
    called because the cheeses, tied in pairs and hung over a
    pole, look as though they <!-- Page 161 --><a id="Page_161"></a> were sitting in a saddle&mdash;cheese on
       horseback, or "<i>cacio a cavallo</i>." Then we ring in Lazy
       Lou's first assistant, an old, silver-plated, revolving
       Florentine magnum-holder. It's designed to spin a gigantic
       flask of Chianti. The flick of a finger and the bottle is
       before you. Gently pull it down and hold your glass to the
       spout.</p>

    <p>True, imported wines and cheeses are expensive. But native
    American products and reasonably edible imitations of the real
    thing are available as substitutes. Anyway, protein for
    protein, a cheese party will cost less than a steak barbecue.
    And it can be more fun.</p>

    <p>Encourage your guests to contribute their own latest
    discoveries. One may bring along as his ticket of admission a
    Primavera from Brazil; another some cubes of an Andean
    specialty just flown in from Colombia's mountain city,
    M&eacute;rida, and still wrapped in its aromatic leaves of
    <i>Frailej&oacute;n Lanudo</i>; another a few wedges of savory
    sweet English Flower cheese, some flavored with rose petals,
    others with marigolds; another a tube of South American
    Kr&auml;uterk&auml;se.</p>

    <p>Provide your own assortment of breads and try to include
    some of those fat, flaky old-fashioned crackers that country
    stores in New England can still supply. Mustard? Sure, if
    you like it. If you want to be fancy, use a tricky
    little gadget put out by the Maille condiment-makers in France
    and available here in the food specialty shops. It's a
    miniature painter's palate holding five mustards of different
    shades and flavors and two mustard paddles. The mustards, in
    proper chromatic order, are: jonquil yellow "Strong Dijon";
    "Green Herbs"; brownish "Tarragon"; golden "Ora"; crimson
    "Tomato-flavored."</p>

    <p>And, just to keep things moving, we have restored an antique
    whirling cruet-holder to deliver Worcestershire sauce, soy
    sauce, A-1, Tap Sauce and Major Grey's Chutney. Salt shakers
    and pepper mills are handy, with a big-holed tin canister
    filled with crushed red-pepper pods, chili powder,
    Hungarian-paprika and such small matters. Butter, both sweet
    and salt, is on hand, together with, saucers or bowls of curry,
    capers, chives (sliced, not <!-- Page 162 --><a id="Page_162"></a>chopped), minced onion, fresh mint leaves,
       chopped pimientos, caraway, quartered lemons, parsley, fresh
       tarragon, tomato slices, red and white radishes, green and
       black olives, pearl onions and assorted nutmeats.</p>

    <p>Some years ago, when I was collaborating with my mother,
    Cora, and my wife, Rose, in writing <i>10,000 Snacks</i>
    (which, by the way, devotes nearly forty pages to cheeses), we
    staged a rather elaborate tasting party just for the three of
    us. It took a two-tiered Lazy Lou to twirl the load.</p>

    <p>The eight wedges on the top round were English and French
    samples and the lower one carried the rest, as follows:</p>

    <div class="center">
        <table style="padding: 8px;">
            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">ENGLISH CHEDDAR</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">CHESHIRE</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">ENGLISH STILTON</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">CANADIAN CHEDDAR (rum flavored)</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">FRENCH M&Uuml;NSTER</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">FRENCH BRIE</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">FRENCH CAMEMBERT</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">FRENCH ROQUEFORT</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">SWISS SAPSAGO</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">SWISS GRUYERE</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">SWISS EDAM</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">DUTCH GOUDA</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: left;">ITALIAN PROVOLONE</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">CZECH OSTIEPKI</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">ITALIAN GORGONZOLA</td>

                <td style="text-align: left;">NORWEGIAN GJETOST</td>
            </tr>

            <tr>
                <td style="text-align: center;">HUNGARIAN LIPTAUER</td>
                <td></td>
                <td></td>
                <td></td>
            </tr>
        </table>
    </div>

    <p>The tasting began with familiar English Cheddars, Cheshires
    and Stiltons from the top row. We had cheese knives, scoops,
    graters, scrapers and a regulation wire saw, but for this line
    of crumbly Britishers fingers were best.</p>

    <p>The Cheddar was a light, lemony-yellow, almost white, like
    our best domestic "bar cheese" of old.</p>

    <p>The Cheshire was moldy and milky, with a slightly fermented
    flavor that brought up the musty dining room of Fleet Street's
    Cheshire cheese and called for draughts of beer. The Stilton
    was strong but mellow, as high in flavor as in price.</p>

    <p>Only the rum-flavored Canadian Cheddar from Montreal (by
    courtesy English) let us down. It was done up as fancy as a
    bridegroom <!-- Page 163 --><a id="Page_163"></a> in waxed white paper and looked as smooth
       and glossy as a gardenia. But there its beauty ended. Either
       the rum that flavored it wasn't up to much or the mixture
       hadn't been allowed to ripen naturally.</p>

    <p>The French M&uuml;nster, however, was hearty, cheery, and
    better made than most German M&uuml;nster, which at that time
    wasn't being exported much by the Nazis. The Brie was melting
    prime, the Camembert was so perfectly matured we ate every
    scrap of the crust, which can't be done with many American
    "Camemberts" or, indeed, with the dead, dry French ones sold
    out of season. Then came the Roquefort, a regal cheese we voted
    the best buy of the lot, even though it was the most expensive.
    A plump piece, pleasantly unctuous but not greasy, sharp in
    scent, stimulatingly bittersweet in taste&mdash;unbeatable.
    There is no American pretender to the Roquefort throne. Ours is
    invariably chalky and tasteless. That doesn't mean we have no
    good Blues. We have. But they are not Roquefort.</p>

    <p>The Sapsago or Kr&auml;uterk&auml;se from Switzerland (it
    has been made in the Canton of Glarus for over five hundred
    years) was the least expensive of the lot. Well-cured and dry,
    it lent itself to grating and tasted fine on an old-fashioned
    buttered soda cracker. Sapsago has its own seduction, derived
    from the clover-leaf powder with which the curd is mixed and
    which gives it its haunting flavor and spring-like sage-green
    color.</p>

    <p>Next came some truly great Swiss Gruy&egrave;re, delicately
    rich, and nutty enough to make us think of the sharp white
    wines to be drunk with it at the source.</p>

    <p>As for the Provolone, notable for the water-buffalo milk
    that makes it, there's an example of really grown-up milk.
    Perfumed as spring flowers drenched with a shower of Anjou,
    having a bouquet all its own and a trace of a winelike kick, it
    made us vow never to taste another American imitation. Only a
    smooth-cheeked, thick slab cut from a pedigreed Italian
    Provolone of medium girth, all in one piece and with no sign of
    a crack, satisfy the gourmet.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 164 --><a id="Page_164"></a> The second Italian classic was
       Gorgonzola, gorgeous Gorgonzola, as fruity as apples,
       peaches and pears sliced together. It smells so much like a
       ripe banana we often eat them together, plain or with the
       crumbly <i>formaggio</i> lightly forked into the fruit,
       split lengthwise.</p>

    <p>After that the Edam tasted too lipsticky, like the red-paint
    job on its rind, and the Gouda seemed only half-hearted. Both
    too obviously ready-made for commerce with nothing individual
    or custom-made about them, rolled or bounced over from Holland
    by the boat load.</p>

    <p>The Ostiepki from Czechoslovakia might have been a link of
    smoked ostrich sausage put up in the skin of its own red neck.
    In spite of its pleasing lemon-yellow interior, we couldn't
    think of any use for it except maybe crumbling thirty or forty
    cents' worth into a ten-cent bowl of bean soup. But that seemed
    like a waste of money, so we set it aside to try in tiny chunks
    on crackers as an appetizer some other day, when it might be
    more appetizing.</p>

    <p>We felt much the same about the chocolate-brown Norwegian
    Gjetost that looked like a slab of boarding-school fudge and
    which had the same cloying cling to the tongue. We were told by
    a native that our piece was entirely too young. That's what
    made it so insipid, undeveloped in texture and flavor. But the
    next piece we got turned out to be too old and decrepit, and so
    strong it would have taken a Paul Bunyan to stand up under it.
    When we complained to our expert about the shock to our
    palates, he only laughed, pointing to the nail on his little
    finger.</p>

    <p>"You should take just a little bit, like that. A pill no
    bigger than a couple of aspirins or an Alka-Seltzer. It's only
    in the morning you take it when it's old and strong like this,
    for a pick-me-up, a cure for a hangover, you know, like a
    prairie oyster well soused in Worcestershire."</p>

    <p>That made us think we might use it up to flavor a Welsh
    Rabbit, <i>instead</i> of the Worcestershire sauce, but we
    couldn't melt it with anything less than a blowtorch.</p>

    <p>To bring the party to a happy end, we went to town on the
    <!-- Page 165 --><a id="Page_165"></a> Hungarian Liptauer, garnishing that fine,
       granulating buttery base after mixing it well with some
       cream cheese. We mixed the mixed cheese with sardine and
       tuna mashed together in a little of the oil from the can. We
       juiced it with lemon, sluiced it with bottled sauces, worked
       in the leftovers, some tarragon, mint, spicy seeds, parsley,
       capers and chives. We peppered and paprikaed it, salted and
       spiced it, then spread it thicker than butter on
       pumpernickel and went to it. <i>That's</i> Liptauer
       Garniert.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p><!-- Page 166 --><a id="Page_166"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div>
        <img src="images/166.gif" alt="No. 4 Cheese Inc." style="width: 450px; height: 290px">
    </div>

    <div class="rightalign">
        <i>Appendix</i>
    </div>

    <h2>The A-B-Z of Cheese</h2>

    <p><i>Each cheese is listed by its name and country of origin,
    with any further information available. Unless otherwise
    indicated, the cheese is made of cow's milk.</i></p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_A"></a><br >
     A</h3>

    <p><b>Aberdeen</b><br >
     <i>Scotland</i></p>

    <p>Soft; creamy mellow.</p>

    <p><b>Abertam</b><br >
     <i>Bohemia</i> <i>(Made near Carlsbad</i>)</p>

    <p>Hard; sheep; distinctive, with a savory smack all its
    own.</p>

    <p><b>Absinthe</b> <i>see</i> Petafina.</p>

    <p><b>Acidophilus</b> <i>see</i> Saint-Ivel.</p>

    <p><b>Aettekees</b><br >
     <i>Belgium</i></p>

    <p>November to May&mdash;winter-made and eaten.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 167 --><a id="Page_167"></a> <b>Affin&eacute;, Carr&eacute;</b>
       <i>see</i> Ancien Imp&eacute;rial.</p>

    <p><b>Affumicata, Mozzarella</b> <i>see</i> Mozzarella.</p>

    <p><b>After-dinner cheeses</b> <i>see</i>
    <a href="#Page_111">Chapter 8</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Agricultural school cheeses</b> <i>see</i>
    College-educated.</p>

    <p><b>Aiguilles, Fromage d'</b><br >
     <i>Alpine France</i></p>

    <p>Named "Cheese of the Needles" from the sharp Alpine peaks of
    the district where it is made.</p>

    <p><b>Aizy, Cendr&eacute;e d'</b> <i>see</i>
    Cendr&eacute;e.</p>

    <p><b>Ajacilo, Ajaccio</b><br >
     <i>Corsica</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; piquant; nut-flavor. Named after the chief city of
    French Corsica where a cheese-lover, Napoleon, was born.</p>

    <p><b>&agrave; la Cr&egrave;me</b> <i>see</i> Fromage, Fromage
    Blanc, Chevretons.</p>

    <p><b>&agrave; la Main</b> <i>see</i> Vacherin.</p>

    <p><b>&agrave; la Pie</b> <i>see</i> Fromage.</p>

    <p><b>&agrave; la Rachette</b> <i>see</i> Bagnes.</p>

    <p><b>Albini</b><br >
     <i>Northern Italy</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; made of both goat and cow milk; white, mellow,
    pleasant-tasting table cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Albula</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Rich with the flavor of cuds of green herbs chewed into
    creamy milk that makes tasty curds. Made in the fertile Swiss
    Valley of Albula whose proud name it bears.</p>

    <p><b>Alderney</b><br >
     <i>Channel Islands</i></p>

    <p>The French, who are fond of this special product of the very
    special breed of cattle <!-- Page 168 --><a id="Page_168"></a> named after the Channel Island of
       Alderney, translate it phonetically&mdash;Fromage
       d'Aurigny.</p>

    <p><b>Alemtejo</b><br >
     <i>Portugal</i></p>

    <p>Called in full Queijo de Alemtejo, cheese of Alemtejo, in
    the same way that so many French cheeses carry along the
    <i>fromage</i> title. Soft; sheep and sometimes goat or cow; in
    cylinders of three sizes, weighing respectively about two
    ounces, one pound, and four pounds. The smaller sizes are the
    ones most often made with mixed goat and sheep milk. The method
    of curdling without the usual animal rennet is interesting and
    unusual. The milk is warmed and curdled with vegetable rennet
    made from the flowers of a local thistle, or cardoon, which is
    used in two other Portuguese cheeses&mdash;Queijo da Cardiga
    and Queijo da Serra da Estrella&mdash;and probably in many
    others not known beyond their locale. In France la Caillebotte
    is distinguished for being clabbered with <i>chardonnette</i>,
    wild artichoke seed. In Portugal, where there isn't so much
    separating of the sheep from the goats, it takes several weeks
    for Alemtejos to ripen, depending on the lactic content and
    difference in sizes.</p>

    <p><b>Alfalfa</b> <i>see</i> Sage.</p>

    <p><b>Alise Saint-Reine</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; summer-made.</p>

    <p><b>Allg&auml;uer Bergk&auml;se, Allg&auml;uer Rundk&auml;se,
    or Allg&auml;uer Emmentaler</b><br >
     <i>Bavaria</i></p>

    <p>Hard; Emmentaler type. The small district of Allg&auml;u
    names a mountain of cheeses almost as fabulous as our
    "Rock-candy Mountain." There are two principal kinds, vintage
    Allg&auml;uer Bergk&auml;se <!-- Page 169 -->
     <a id="Page_169"></a>and soft Allg&auml;uer Rahmk&auml;se,
       described below. This celebrated cheese section runs through
       rich pasture lands right down and into the Swiss Valley of
       the Emme that gives the name Emmentaler to one of the
       world's greatest. So it is no wonder that Allg&auml;uer
       Bergk&auml;se can compete with the best Swiss. Before the
       Russian revolution, in fact, all vintage cheeses of
       Allg&auml;u were bought up by wealthy Russian noblemen and
       kept in their home caves in separate compartments for each
       year, as far back as the early 1900's. As with fine vintage
       wines, the price of the great years went up steadily. Such
       cheeses were shipped to their Russian owners only when the
       chief cheese-pluggers of Allg&auml;u found they had reached
       their prime.</p>

    <p><b>Allg&auml;uer Rahmk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Bavaria</i></p>

    <p>Full cream, similar to Romadur and Limburger, but milder
    than both. This sets a high grade for similar cheeses made in
    the Bavarian mountains, in monasteries such as Andechs. It goes
    exquisitely with the rich dark Bavarian beer. Some of it is as
    slippery as the stronger, smellier Bierk&auml;se, or the
    old-time Slipcote of England. Like so many North Europeans, it
    is often flavored with caraway. Although entirely different
    from its big brother, vintage Bergk&auml;se, Rahmk&auml;se can
    stand proudly at its side as one of the finest cheeses in
    Germany.</p>

    <p><b>Alpe</b> <i>see</i> Fiore di Alpe.</p>

    <p><b>Al Pepe</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Hard and peppery, like its name. Similar to Pepato
    (<i>see</i>).</p>

    <p><!-- Page 170 --><a id="Page_170"></a> <b>Alpes</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Bel Paese.</p>

    <p><b>Alpestra</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>A smoked cheese that tastes, smells and inhales like
    whatever fish it was smoked with. The French Alps has a
    different Alpestre; Italy spells hers Alpestro.</p>

    <p><b>Alpestre, Alpin, or Fromage de Brian&ccedil;on</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Hard; goat; dry; small; lightly salted. Made at
    Brian&ccedil;on and Gap.</p>

    <p><b>Alpestro</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; goat; dry; lightly salted.</p>

    <p><b>Alpin or Cl&eacute;rimbert</b><br >
     <i>Alpine France</i></p>

    <p>The milk is coagulated with rennet at 80&deg; F. in two
    hours. The curd is dipped into molds three to four inches in
    diameter and two and a half inches in height, allowed to drain,
    turned several times for one day only, then salted and ripened
    one to two weeks.</p>

    <p><b>Altenburg, or Altenburger Ziegenk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Soft; goat; small and flat&mdash;one to two inches thick,
    eight inches in diameter, weight two pounds.</p>

    <p><b>Alt Kuhk&auml;se Old Cow Cheese</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Hard; well-aged, as its simple name suggests.</p>

    <p><b>Altsohl</b> <i>see</i> Brinza.</p>

    <p><b>Ambert, or Fourme d'Ambert</b><br >
     <i>Limagne, Auvergne, France</i></p>

    <p>A kind of Cheddar made from November to May and belonging to
    the Cantal&mdash;Fourme-La Tome tribe.</p>

    <p><b>American, American Cheddar</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Described under their home states and distinctive names are
    a dozen fine American Cheddars, such as Coon, Wiscon
    <!-- Page 171 -->
     <a id="Page_171"></a>sin, Herkimer County and Tillamook, to
       name only a few. They come in as many different shapes, with
       traditional names such as Daisies, Flats, Longhorns,
       Midgets, Picnics, Prints and Twins. The ones simply called
       Cheddars weigh about sixty pounds. All are made and pressed
       and ripened in about the same way, although they differ
       greatly in flavor and quality. They are ripened anywhere
       from two months to two years and become sharper, richer and
       more flavorsome, as well as more expensive, with the passing
       of time. <i>See</i> Cheddar states and Cheddar types in
       <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Americano Romano</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Hard; brittle; sharp.</p>

    <p><b>Amou</b><br >
     <i>B&eacute;arn, France</i></p>

    <p>Winter cheese, October to May.</p>

    <p><b>Anatolian</b><br >
     <i>Turkey</i></p>

    <p>Hard; sharp.</p>

    <p><b>Anchovy Links</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>American processed cheese that can be mixed up with
    anchovies or any fish from whitebait to whale, made like a
    sausage and sold in handy links.</p>

    <p><b>Ancien Imp&eacute;rial</b><br >
     <i>Normandy, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; fresh cream; white, mellow and creamy like
    Neufch&acirc;tel and made in the same way. Tiny bricks packaged
    in tin foil, two inches square, one-half inch thick, weighing
    three ounces. Eaten both fresh and when ripe. It is also called
    Carr&eacute; and has separate names for the new and the old:
    (a) Petit Carr&eacute; when newly made; (b) Carr&eacute;
    Affin&eacute;, when it has reached a ripe old age, which
    doesn't take long&mdash;about the same time as
    Neufch&acirc;tel.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 172 --><a id="Page_172"></a><b>Ancona</b> <i>see</i> Pecorino.</p>

    <p><b>Andean</b><br >
     <i>Venezuela</i></p>

    <p>A cow's-milker made in the Andes near M&eacute;rida. It is
    formed into rough cubes and wrapped in the pungent, aromatic
    leaves of <i>Frailej&oacute;n Lanudo</i> (<i>Espeletia
    Schultzii</i>) which imparts to it a characteristic flavor.
    (Description given in <i>Buen Provecho!</i> by Dorothy
    Kamen-Kaye.)</p>

    <p><b>Andechs</b><br >
     <i>Bavaria</i></p>

    <p>A lusty Allg&auml;uer type. Monk-made on the monastery hill
    at Andechs on Ammersee. A superb snack with equally monkish
    dark beer, black bread and blacker radishes, served by the
    brothers in dark brown robes.</p>

    <p><b>Antwerp</b><br >
     <i>Belgium</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; nut-flavored; named after its place of origin.</p>

    <p><b>Appenzeller</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland, Bavaria and Baden</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft Emmentaler type made in a small twenty-pound
    wheel&mdash;a pony-cart wheel in comparison to the big Swiss.
    There are two qualities: (a) Common, made of skim milk and
    cured in brine for a year; (b) Festive, full milk, steeped in
    brine with wine, plus white wine lees and pepper. The only
    cheese we know of that is ripened with lees of wine.</p>

    <p><b>Appetitost</b><br >
     <i>Denmark</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; sour milk; nutlike flavor. It's an appetizer that
    lives up to its name, eaten fresh on the spot, from the loose
    bottom pans in which it is made.</p>

    <p><b>Appetost</b><br >
     <i>Denmark</i></p>

    <p>Sour buttermilk, similar to Primula, with caraway seeds
    added for snap. Imitated in U.S.A.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 173 --><a id="Page_173"></a><b>Apple</b> <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A small New York State Cheddar put up in the form of a
    red-cheeked apple for New York City trade. Inspired by the
    pear-shaped Provolone and Baby Gouda, no doubt.</p>

    <p><b>Arber</b><br >
     <i>Bohemia</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; sour milk; yellow; mellow and creamy. Made in
    mountains between Bohemia and Silesia.</p>

    <p><b>Argentine</b><br >
     <i>Argentina</i></p>

    <p>Argentina is specially noted for fine reproductions of
    classical Italian hard-grating cheeses such as Parmesan and
    Romano, rich and fruity because of the lush pampas-grass
    feeding.</p>

    <p><b>Armavir</b><br >
     <i>Western Caucasus</i></p>

    <p>Soft; whole sour sheep milk; a hand cheese made by stirring
    cold, sour buttermilk or whey into heated milk, pressing in
    forms and ripening in a warm place. Similar to Hand cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Arnauten</b> <i>see</i> Travnik.</p>

    <p><b>Arovature</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Water-buffalo milk.</p>

    <p><b>Arras, Coeurs d'</b> <i>see</i> Coeurs.</p>

    <p><b>Arrigny</b><br >
     <i>Champagne, France</i></p>

    <p>Made only in winter, November to May. Since gourmet products
    of the same province often have a special affinity, Arrigny and
    champagne are specially well suited to one another.</p>

    <p><b>Artichoke, Cardoon or Thistle for Rennet</b> <i>see</i>
    Caillebotte.</p>

    <p><b>Artificial Dessert Cheese</b></p>

    <p>In the lavish days of olde England Artificial Dessert Cheese
    was made by mixing <!-- Page 174 --><a id="Page_174"></a> one quart of cream with two of milk and
       spiking it with powdered cinnamon, nutmeg and mace. Four
       beaten eggs were then stirred in with one-half cup of white
       vinegar and the mixture boiled to a curd. It was then poured
       into a cheesecloth and hung up to drain six to eight hours.
       When taken out of the cloth it was further flavored with
       rose water, sweetened with castor sugar, left to ripen for
       an hour or two and finally served up with more cream.</p>

    <p><b>Asadero, or Oaxaca</b><br >
     <i>Jalisco and Oaxaca, Mexico</i></p>

    <p>White; whole-milk. Curd is heated, and hot curd is cut and
    braided or kneaded into loaves from eight ounces to eleven
    pounds in weight Asadero means "suitable for roasting."</p>

    <p><b>Asco</b><br >
     <i>Corsica, France</i></p>

    <p>Made only in the winter season, October to May.</p>

    <p><b>Asiago I, II and III</b><br >
     <i>Vicenza, Italy</i></p>

    <p>Sometimes classed as medium and mild, depending mostly on
    age. Loaves weigh about eighteen pounds each and look like
    American Cheddar but have a taste all their own.</p>

    <p>I. Mild, nutty and sharp, used for table slicing and
    eating.</p>

    <p>II. Medium, semihard and tangy, also used for slicing until
    nine months old.</p>

    <p>III. Hard, old, dry, sharp, brittle. When over nine months
    old, it's fine for grating.</p>

    <p><b>Asin, or Water cheese</b><br >
     <i>Northern Italy</i></p>

    <p>Sour-milk; washed-curd; whitish; soft; buttery. Made mostly
    in spring and eaten in summer and autumn. Dessert
    <!-- Page 175 --><a id="Page_175"></a> cheese, frequently eaten with honey and
       fruit.</p>

    <p><b>Au Cumin</b><br >
     <i>see</i> M&uuml;nster.</p>

    <p><b>Au Fenouil</b><br >
     <i>see</i> Tome de Savoie.</p>

    <p><b>Au Foin and de Foin</b></p>

    <p>A style of ripening "on the hay." <i>See</i> Pithiviers au
    Foin and Fromage de Foin.</p>

    <p><b>Augelot</b><br >
     <i>Val&eacute;e d'Auge, Normandy, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; tangy; piquant Pont l'Ev&ecirc;que type.</p>

    <p><b>d'Auray</b> <i>see</i> Sainte-Anne.</p>

    <p><b>Aurigny, Fromage d'</b> <i>see</i> Alderney.</p>

    <p><b>Aurillac</b> <i>see</i> Bleu d'Auvergne.</p>

    <p><b>Aurore and Triple Aurore</b><br >
     <i>Normandy, France</i></p>

    <p>Made and eaten all year.</p>

    <p><b>Australian and New Zealand</b><br >
     <i>Australia and New Zealand</i></p>

    <p>Enough cheese is produced for local consumption, chiefly
    Cheddar; some Gruy&egrave;re, but unfortunately mostly
    processed.</p>

    <p><b>Autun</b><br >
     <i>Nivernais, France</i></p>

    <p>Produced and eaten all year. Fromage de Vache is another
    name for it and this is of special interest in a province where
    the chief competitors are made of goat's milk.</p>

    <p><b>Auvergne, Bleu d'</b> <i>see</i> Bleu.</p>

    <p><b>Au Vin Blanc, Confits</b> <i>see</i> Epoisses.</p>

    <p><b>Avesnes, Boulette d'</b> <i>see</i> Boulette.</p>

    <p><b>Aydes, les</b><br >
     <i>Orl&eacute;anais, France</i></p>

    <p>Not eaten during July, August or September. Season, October
    to June.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 176 --><a id="Page_176"></a> <b>Azeit&atilde;o, Queijo do</b><br >
     <i>Portugal</i></p>

    <p>Soft, sheep, sapid and extremely oily as the superlative
    <i>&atilde;o</i> implies. There are no finer, fatter cheeses in
    the world than those made of rich sheep milk in the mountains
    of Portugal and named for them.</p>

    <p><b>Azeitoso</b><br >
     <i>Portugal</i></p>

    <p>Soft; mellow, zestful and as oily as it is named.</p>

    <p><b>Azuldoch Mountain</b><br >
     <i>Turkey</i></p>

    <p>Mild and mellow mountain product.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_B"></a><br >
     B</h3>

    <p><b>Backsteiner</b><br >
     <i>Bavaria</i></p>

    <p>Resembles Limburger, but smaller, and translates Brick, from
    the shape. It is aromatic and piquant and not very much like
    the U.S. Brick.</p>

    <p><b>Bagnes, or Fromage &agrave; la Raclette</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Not only hard but very hard, named from <i>racler</i>,
    French for "scrape." A thick, one-half-inch slice is cut across
    the whole cheese and toasted until runny. It is then scraped
    off the pan it's toasted in with a flexible knife, spread on
    bread and eaten like an open-faced Welsh Rabbit sandwich.</p>

    <p><b>Bagozzo, Grana Bagozzo, Bresciano</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Hard; yellow; sharp. Surface often colored red. Parmesan
    type.</p>

    <p><b>Bakers' cheese</b></p>

    <p>Skim milk, similar to cottage cheese, but softer and finer
    grained. Used in making bakery products such as cheese cake,
    pie, and pastries, but may also be eaten like creamed cottage
    cheese.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 177 --><a id="Page_177"></a> <b>Ball</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Made from thick sour milk in Pennsylvania in the style of
    the original Pennsylvania Dutch settlers.</p>

    <p><b>Ballak&auml;se or Womelsdorf</b></p>

    <p>Similar to Ball.</p>

    <p><b>Balls, Dutch Red</b></p>

    <p>English name for Edam.</p>

    <p><b>Banbury</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Soft, rich cylinder about one inch thick made in the town of
    Banbury, famous for its spicy, citrus-peel buns and its
    equestrienne. Banbury cheese with Banbury buns made a
    sensational snack in the early nineteenth century, but both are
    getting scarce today.</p>

    <p><b>Banick</b><br >
     <i>Armenia</i></p>

    <p>White and sweet.</p>

    <p><b>Banjaluka</b><br >
     <i>Bosnia</i></p>

    <p>Port-Salut type from its Trappist monastery.</p>

    <p><b>Banon, or les Petits Banons</b><br >
     <i>Provence, France,</i></p>

    <p>Small, dried, sheep-milker, made in the foothills of the
    Alps and exported through Marseilles in season, May to
    November. This sprightly summer cheese is generously sprinkled
    with the local brandy and festively wrapped in fresh green
    leaves.</p>

    <p><b>Bar cheese</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Any saloon Cheddar, formerly served on every free-lunch
    counter in the U.S. Before Prohibition, free-lunch cheese was
    the backbone of America's cheese industry.</p>

    <p><b>Barbacena</b><br >
     <i>Minas Geraes, Brazil</i></p>

    <p>Hard, white, sometimes chalky. Named from its home city in
    the leading cheese state of Brazil.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 178 --><a id="Page_178"></a> <b>Barberey, or Fromage de
       Troyes</b><br >
     <i>Champagne, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, creamy and smooth, resembling Camembert, five to six
    inches in diameter and 1&frac14; inches thick. Named from its
    home town, Barberey, near Troyes, whose name it also bears.
    Fresh, warm milk is coagulated by rennet in four hours. Uncut
    curd then goes into a wooden mold with a perforated bottom, to
    drain three hours, before being finished off in an earthenware
    mold. The cheeses are salted, dried and ripened three weeks in
    a cave. The season is from November to May and when made in
    summer they are often sold fresh.</p>

    <p><b>Barboux</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft.</p>

    <p><b>Baronet</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A natural product, mild and mellow.</p>

    <p><b>Barron</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft.</p>

    <p><b>Bassillac</b> <i>see</i> Bleu.</p>

    <p><b>Bath</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Gently made, lightly salted, drained on a straw mat in the
    historic resort town of Bath. Ripened in two weeks and eaten
    only when covered with a refined fuzzy mold that's also
    eminently edible. It is the most delicate of English-speaking
    cheeses.</p>

    <p><b>Battelmatt</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland, St. Gothard Alps, northern Italy, and western
    Austria</i></p>

    <p>An Emmentaler made small where milk is not plentiful. The
    "wheel" is only sixteen inches in diameter and four inches
    high, weighing forty to eighty pounds. The cooking of the curd
    is done at a little lower temperature than Emmentaler, it
    ripens more rapidly&mdash;in four months &mdash;
    <!-- Page 179 --><a id="Page_179"></a> and is somewhat softer, but has the same
       holes and creamy though sharp, full nutty flavor.</p>

    <p><b>Bauden</b> (<i>see also</i> Koppen)<br >
     <i>Germany, Austria, Bohemia and Silesia</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft, sour milk, hand type, made in herders' mountain
    huts in about the same way as Harzk&auml;se, though it is
    bigger. In two forms, one cup shape (called Koppen), the other
    a cylinder. Strong and aromatic, whether made with or without
    caraway.</p>

    <p><b>Bavarian Beer cheese</b> <i>see</i> Bayrischer
    Bierk&auml;se.</p>

    <p><b>Bavarian Cream</b><br >
     <i>German</i></p>

    <p>Very soft; smooth and creamy. Made in the Bavarian
    mountains. Especially good with sweet wines and sweet
    sauces.</p>

    <p><b>Bavarois &agrave; la Vanille</b> <i>see</i> Fromage
    Bavarois.</p>

    <p><b>Bayonne</b> <i>see</i> Fromage de Bayonne.</p>

    <p><b>Bayrischer Bierk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Bavaria</i></p>

    <p>Bavarian beer cheese from the Tyrol is made not only to eat
    with beer, but to dunk in it.</p>

    <p><b>Beads of cheese</b><br >
     <i>Tibet</i></p>

    <p>Beads of hard cheese, two inches in diameter, are strung
    like a necklace of cowrie shells or a rosary, fifty to a
    hundred on a string. <i>Also see</i> Money Made of Cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Beagues</b> <i>see</i> Tome de Savoie.</p>

    <p><b>Bean Cake, Tao-foo, or Tofu</b><br >
     <i>China, Japan, the Orient</i></p>

    <p>Soy bean cheese imported from Shanghai and other oriental
    ports, and also imitated in every Chinatown around the world.
    Made from the milk of beans and curdled with its own vegetable
    rennet.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 180 --><a id="Page_180"></a> <b>Beaujolais</b> <i>see</i>
       Chevretons.</p>

    <p><b>Beaumont, or Tome de Beaumont</b><br >
     <i>Savoy, France</i></p>

    <p>A more or less successful imitation of Trappist Tamie, a
    trade-secret triumph of Savoy. At its best from October to
    June.</p>

    <p><b>Beaupr&eacute; de Roybon</b><br >
     <i>Dauphin&eacute;, France</i></p>

    <p>A winter specialty made from November to April.</p>

    <p><b>Beckenried</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>A good mountain cheese from goat milk.</p>

    <p><b>Beer cheese</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>While our beer cheese came from Germany and the word is
    merely a translation of Bierk&auml;se, we use it chiefly for a
    type of strong Limburger made mostly in Milwaukee. This fine,
    aromatic cheese is considered by many as the very best to eat
    while drinking beer. But in Germany Bierk&auml;se is more apt
    to be dissolved in a glass or stein of beer, much as we mix
    malted powder in milk, and drunk with it, rather than
    eaten.</p>

    <p><b>Beer-Regis</b><br >
     <i>Dorsetshire, England</i></p>

    <p>This sounds like another beer cheese, but it's only a mild
    Cheddar named after its hometown in Dorsetshire.</p>

    <p><b>Beist-Cheese</b><br >
     <i>Scotland</i></p>

    <p>A curiosity of the old days. "The first milk after a
    calving, boiled or baked to a thick consistency, the result
    somewhat resembling new-made cheese, though this is clearly not
    a true cheese." (MacNeill)</p>

    <p><b>Belarno</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Hard; goat; creamy dessert cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Belgian Cooked</b><br >
     <i>Belgium</i></p>

    <p>The milk, which has been allowed to curdle spontaneously, is
    skimmed and allowed to drain. When dry it is thoroughly kneaded
    by hand and is allowed <!-- Page 181 --><a id="Page_181"></a> to undergo fermentation, which takes
       ordinarily from ten to fourteen days in winter and six to
       eight days in summer. When the fermentation is complete,
       cream and salt are added and the mixture is heated slowly
       and stirred until homogeneous, when it is put into molds and
       allowed to ripen for eight days longer. A cheese ordinarily
       weighs about three-and-a-half pounds. It is not essentially
       different from other forms of cooked cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Beli Sir</b> <i>see</i> Domaci.</p>

    <p><b>Bellelay, T&ecirc;te de Moine, or Monk's Head</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Soft, buttery, semisharp spread. Sweet milk is coagulated
    with rennet in twenty to thirty minutes, the curd cut fairly
    fine and cooked not so firm as Emmentaler, but firmer than
    Limburger. After being pressed, the cheeses are wrapped in bark
    for a couple of weeks until they can stand alone. Since no eyes
    are desired in the cheeses, they are ripened in a moist cellar
    at a lowish temperature. They take a year to ripen and will
    keep three or four years. The diameter is seven inches, the
    weight nine to fifteen pounds. The monk's head after cutting is
    kept wrapped in a napkin soaked in white wine and the soft,
    creamy spread is scraped out to "butter" bread and snacks that
    go with more white wine. Such combinations of old wine and old
    cheese suggest monkish influence, which began here in the
    fifteenth century with the jolly friars of the Canton of Bern.
    There it is still made exclusively and not exported, for
    there's never quite enough to go around.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 182 --><a id="Page_182"></a> <b>Bel Paese</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p><i>See under</i> <a href="#Page_17">Foreign Greats, Chapter
    3</a>. <i>Also see</i> Mel Fino, a blend, and Bel Paese
    types&mdash;French Boudanne and German Saint Stefano. The
    American imitation is not nearly so good as the Italian
    original.</p>

    <p><b>Bel Paesino</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A play on the Bel Paese name and fame. Weight one pound and
    diminutive in every other way.</p>

    <p><b>Bergk&auml;se</b> <i>see</i> Allg&auml;uer.</p>

    <p><b>Bergquara</b><br >
     <i>Sweden</i></p>

    <p>Semihard, fat, resembles Dutch Gouda. Tangy, pleasant taste.
    Gets sharper with age, as they all do. Molded in cylinders of
    fifteen to forty pounds. Popular in Sweden since the eighteenth
    century.</p>

    <p><b>Berkeley</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Named after its home town in Gloucester, England.</p>

    <p><b>Berliner Kuhk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Berlin, Germany</i></p>

    <p>Cow cheese, pet-named turkey cock cheese by Berlin students.
    Typical German hand cheese, soft; aromatic with caraway seeds,
    and that's about the only difference between it and Alt
    Kuhk&auml;se, without caraway.</p>

    <p><b>Bernarde, Formagelle Bernarde</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Cow's whole milk, to which about 10% of goat's milk is added
    for flavor. Cured for two months.</p>

    <p><b>Berques</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Made of skim milk.</p>

    <p><b>Berry Rennet</b> <i>see</i> Withania.</p>

    <p><b>Bessay, le</b><br >
     <i>Bourbonnais, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, mild, and creamy.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 183 --><a id="Page_183"></a> <b>Bexhill</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Cream cheeses, small, flat, round. Excellent munching.</p>

    <p><b>Bierk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>There are several of these unique beer cheeses that are
    actually dissolved in a stein of beer and drunk down with it in
    the Bierstubes, notably Bayrischer, Dresdener, and
    Olm&uuml;tzer. Semisoft; aromatic; sharp. Well imitated in
    <i>echt Deutsche</i> American spots such as Milwaukee and
    Hoboken.</p>

    <p><b>Bifrost</b><br >
     <i>Norway</i></p>

    <p>Goat; white; mildly salt. Imitated in a process spread in
    4&frac14;-ounce package.</p>

    <p><b>Binn</b><br >
     <i>Wallis, Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Exceptionally fine Swiss from the great cheese canton of
    Wallis.</p>

    <p><b>Bitto</b><br >
     <i>Northern Italy</i></p>

    <p>Hard Emmentaler type made in the Valtellina. It is really
    two cheeses in one. When eaten fresh, it is smooth, sapid,
    big-eyed Swiss. When eaten after two years of ripening, it is
    very hard and sharp and has small eyes.</p>

    <p><b>Blanc &agrave; la cr&egrave;me</b> <i>see</i> Fromage
    Blanc.</p>

    <p><b>Blanc</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Blanc I and II.</p>

    <p><b>Bleu</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Brittle; blue-veined; smooth; biting.</p>

    <p><b>Bleu d'Auvergne or Fromage Bleu</b><br >
     <i>Auvergne, France</i></p>

    <p>Hard; sheep or mixed sheep, goat or cow; from Pontgibaud and
    Laqueuille ripening caves. Similar to better-known Cantal of
    the same province. Akin to Roquefort and Stilton, and to Bleu
    de Laqueuille.</p>

    <p><b>Bleu de Bassillac</b><br >
     <i>Limousin, France</i></p>

    <p>Blue mold of Roquefort type that's prime from November to
    May.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 184 --><a id="Page_184"></a> <b>Bleu de Laqueuille</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Bleu d'Auvergne, but with a different savor.
    Named for its originator, Antoine Roussel-Laqueuille, who first
    made it a century ago, in 1854.</p>

    <p><b>Bleu de Limousin, Fromage</b><br >
     <i>Lower Limousin</i></p>

    <p>Practically the same as Bleu de Bassillac, from Lower
    Limousin.</p>

    <p><b>Bleu de Salers</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A variety of Bleu d'Auvergne from the same province
    distinguished for its blues that are green. With the majority,
    this is at its best only in the winter months, from November to
    May.</p>

    <p><b>Bleu, Fromage</b> <i>see</i> Bleu d'Auvergne.</p>

    <p><b>Bleu-Olivet</b> <i>see</i> Olivet.</p>

    <p><b>Blind</b></p>

    <p>The name for cheeses lacking the usual holes of the type
    they belong to, such as blind Swiss.</p>

    <p><b>Block Edam</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>U.S. imitation of the classical Dutch cheese named after the
    town of Edam.</p>

    <p><b>Block, Smoked</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>The name is self-explanatory and suggests a well-colored
    meerschaum.</p>

    <p><b>Bloder, or Schlicker Milch</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Sour-milker.</p>

    <p><b>Blue Cheddar</b> <i>see</i> Cheshire-Stilton.</p>

    <p><b>Blue, Danish</b> <i>see</i> Danish Blue.</p>

    <p><b>Blue Dorset</b> <i>see</i> Dorset.</p>

    <p><b>Blue, Jura</b> <i>see</i> Jura Bleu and Septmoncel.</p>

    <p><b>Blue, and Blue with Port Links</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>One of the modern American process sausages.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 185 --><a id="Page_185"></a> <b>Blue, Minnesota</b> <i>see</i>
       Minnesota.</p>

    <p><b>Blue Moon</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A process product.</p>

    <p><b>Blue Vinny, Blue Vinid, Blue-veined Dorset, or Double
    Dorset</b><br >
     <i>Dorsetshire, England</i></p>

    <p>A unique Blue that actually isn't green-veined. Farmers make
    it for private consumption, because it dries up too easily to
    market. An epicurean esoteric match for Truckles No. 1 of
    Wiltshire. It comes in a flat form, chalk-white, crumbly and
    sharply flavored, with a "royal Blue" vein running right
    through horizontally. The Vinny mold, from which it was named,
    is different from all other cheese molds and has a different
    action.</p>

    <p><b>Bocconi Geganti</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Sharp and smoky specialty.</p>

    <p><b>Bocconi Provoloni</b> <i>see</i> Provolone.</p>

    <p><b>Bo&icirc;te</b> <i>see</i> Fromage de Bo&icirc;te.</p>

    <p><b>Bombay</b><br >
     <i>India</i></p>

    <p>Hard; goat; dry; sharp. Good to crunch with a Bombay Duck in
    place of a cracker.</p>

    <p><b>Bondes</b> <i>see</i> Bondon de Neufch&acirc;tel.</p>

    <p><b>Bondon de Neufch&acirc;tel, or Bondes</b><br >
     <i>Normandy, France</i></p>

    <p>Nicknamed <i>Bonde &agrave; tout bien</i>, from resemblance
    to the bung in a barrel of Neuch&acirc;tel wine. Soft, small
    loaf rolls, fresh and mild. Similar to Gournay, but sweeter
    because of 2% added sugar.</p>

    <p><b>Bondon de Rouen</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A fresh Neufch&acirc;tel, similar to Petit Suisse, but
    slightly salted, to last up to ten days.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 186 --><a id="Page_186"></a> <b>Bondost</b><br >
     <i>Sweden</i></p>

    <p>When caraway seed is added this is called Kommenost, spelled
    Kuminost in Norway.</p>

    <p><b>Bond Ost</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Imitation of Scandinavian cheese, with small production in
    Wisconsin.</p>

    <p><b>Bon Larron</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Romantically named "the penitent thief."</p>

    <p><b>Borden's</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A full line of processed and naturals, of which Liederkranz
    is the leader.</p>

    <p><b>Borelli</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>A small water-buffalo cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Bossons Maceres</b><br >
     <i>Provence, France</i></p>

    <p>A winter product, December, January, February and March
    only.</p>

    <p><b>Boudanne</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Whole or skimmed cow's milk, ripens in two to three
    months.</p>

    <p><b>Boudes, Boudon</b><br >
     <i>Normandy, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, fresh, smooth, creamy, mild child of the
    Neufch&acirc;tel family.</p>

    <p><b>Bougon Lamothe</b> <i>see</i> Lamothe.</p>

    <p><b>Bouill&eacute;, la</b><br >
     <i>Normandy France</i></p>

    <p>One of this most prolific province's thirty different
    notables. In season October to May.</p>

    <p><b>Boule de Lille</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Name given to Belgian Oude Kaas by the French who enjoy
    it.</p>

    <p><b>Boulette d'Avesnes</b>, or <b>Boulette de
    Cambrai</b><br >
     <i>Flanders, France</i></p>

    <p>Made from November to May, eaten all year.</p>

    <p><b>Bourgain</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Type of fresh Neufch&acirc;tel made in France. Perishable
    and consumed locally.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 187 --><a id="Page_187"></a> <b>Bourgognes</b> <i>see</i> Petits
       Bourgognes.</p>

    <p><b>Box</b><br >
     <i>W&uuml;rttemberg, Germany</i></p>

    <p>Similar to U.S. Brick. It comes in two styles; firm, and
    soft:</p>

    <p>I. Also known as Schachtelk&auml;se, Boxed Cheese; and
    Hohenheim, where it is made. A rather unimportant variety. Made
    in a copper kettle, with partially skim milk, colored with
    saffron and spiked with caraway, a handful to every two hundred
    pounds. Salted and ripened for three months and shipped in
    wooden boxes.</p>

    <p>II. Also known by names of localities where made: Hohenburg,
    Mondess and Weihenstephan. Made of whole milk. Mild but
    piquant.</p>

    <p><b>Bra No. I</b><br >
     <i>Piedmont, Italy</i></p>

    <p>Hard, round form, twelve inches in diameter, three inches
    high, weight twelve pounds. A somewhat romantic cheese, made by
    nomads who wander with their herds from pasture to pasture in
    the region of Bra.</p>

    <p><b>Bra No. II</b><br >
     <i>Turin and Cuneo, Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft, creamy, small, round and mild although cured in
    brine.</p>

    <p><b>Brand or Brandk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Soft, sour-milk hand cheese, weighing one-third of a pound.
    The curd is cooked at a high temperature, then salted and set
    to ferment for a day. Butter is then mixed into it before
    pressing into small bricks. After drying it is put in used beer
    kegs to ripen and is frequently moistened with beer while
    curing.</p>

    <p><b>Brandy</b> <i>see</i> Caledonian, Cream.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 188 --><a id="Page_188"></a> <b>Branja de Brailia</b><br >
     <i>Rumania</i></p>

    <p>Hard; sheep; extra salty because always kept in brine.</p>

    <p><b>Branja de Cosulet</b><br >
     <i>Rumania</i></p>

    <p>Described by Richard Wyndham in <i>Wine and Food</i>
    (Winter, 1937): A creamy sheep's cheese which is encased in
    pine bark. My only criticism of this most excellent cheese is
    that the center must always remain a gastronomical second best.
    It is no more interesting than a good English Cheddar, while
    the outer crust has a scented, resinous flavor which must be
    unique among cheeses.</p>

    <p><b>Bratk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Strong; specially made to roast in slices over coal. Fine,
    grilled on toast.</p>

    <p><b>Breakfast, Fr&uuml;hst&uuml;ck, Lunch, Delikat, and other
    names</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Soft and delicate, but with a strong tang. Small round, for
    spreading. Lauterbach is a well-known breakfast cheese in
    Germany, while in Switzerland Emmentaler is eaten at all three
    meals.</p>

    <p><b>Breakstone</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Like Borden and other leading American cheesemongers and
    manufacturers, Breakstone offer a full line, of which their
    cream cheese is an American product to be proud of.</p>

    <p><b>Br&eacute;segaut</b><br >
     <i>Savoy, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, white.</p>

    <p><b>Breslau</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>A proud Prussian dessert cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Bressans</b> <i>see</i> les Petits.</p>

    <p><b>Bresse</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Lightly cooked.</p>

    <p><b>Bretagne</b> <i>see</i> Montauban.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 189 --><a id="Page_189"></a> <b>Brevine</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Emmentaler type.</p>

    <p><b>Brian&ccedil;on</b> <i>see</i> Alpin.</p>

    <p><b>Brick</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter
    4</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Brickbat</b><br >
     <i>Wiltshire, England</i></p>

    <p>A traditional Wiltshire product since early in the
    eighteenth century. Made with fresh milk and some cream, to
    ripen for one year before "it's fit to eat." The French call it
    Briqueton.</p>

    <p><b>Bricotta</b><br >
     <i>Corsica</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft, sour sheep, sometimes mixed with sugar and rum and
    made into small luscious cakes.</p>

    <p><b>Brie</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>;
    <i>also see</i> Cendr&eacute; and Coulommiers.</p>

    <p><b>Brie Fa&ccedil;on</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>The name of imitation Brie or Brie type made in all parts of
    France. Often it is dry, chalky, and far inferior to the finest
    Brie <i>v&eacute;ritable</i> that is still made best in its
    original home, formerly called La Brie, now Seine et Marne, or
    Ile-de-France.</p>

    <p><i>see</i> Nivernais Decize, Le Mont d'Or, and
    Ile-de-France.</p>

    <p><b>Brie de Meaux</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>This genuine Brie from the Meaux region has an excellent
    reputation for high quality. It is made only from November to
    May.</p>

    <p><b>Brie de Melun</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>This Brie <i>v&eacute;ritable</i> is made not only in the
    seasonal months, from November to May, but practically all the
    year around. It is not always prime. Summer Brie, called
    Maigre, is notably poor and thin.
    <!-- Page 190 --><a id="Page_190"></a>Spring Brie is merely Migras, half-fat, as
       against the fat autumn Gras that ripens until May.</p>

    <p><b>Brillat-Savarin</b><br >
     <i>Normandy, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, and available all year. Although the author of
    <i>Physiologie du Go&ucirc;t</i> was not noted as a caseophile
    and wrote little on the subject beyond <i>Le Fondue</i>
    (<i>see</i> <a href="#Page_84">Chapter 6</a>), this savory
    Normandy produce is named in his everlasting praise.</p>

    <p><b>Brina Dubreala</b><br >
     <i>Rumania</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft, sheep, done in brine.</p>

    <p><b>Brindza</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Our imitation of this creamy sort of fresh, white Roquefort
    is as popular in foreign colonies in America as back in its
    Hungarian and Greek homelands. On New York's East Side several
    stores advertise "Brindza fresh daily," with an extra "d"
    crowded into the original Brinza.</p>

    <p><b>Brine</b> <i>see</i> Italian Bra, Caucasian Ekiwani,
    Brina Dubreala, Briney.</p>

    <p><b>Briney, or Brined</b><br >
     <i>Syria</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft, salty, sharp. So-called from being processed in
    brine. Turkish Tullum Penney is of the same salt-soaked
    type.</p>

    <p><b>Brinza, or Brinsen</b><br >
     <i>Hungary, Rumania, Carpathian Mountains</i></p>

    <p>Goes by many local names: Altsohl, Klencz, Landoch,
    Liptauer, Neusohl, Siebenburgen and Zips. Soft, sheep milk or
    sheep and goat; crumbly, sharp and biting, but creamy. Made in
    small lots and cured in a tub with beech shavings. Ftinoporino
    is its opposite number in Macedonia.</p>

    <p><b>Brioler</b> <i>see</i> Westphalia.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 191 --><a id="Page_191"></a> <b>Briquebec</b> <i>see</i>
       Providence</p>

    <p><b>Briqueton</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>The French name for English Wiltshire Brickbat, one of the
    very few cheeses imported into France. Known in France in the
    eighteenth century, it may have influenced the making of
    Trappist Port-Salut at the Bricquebec Monastery in Manche.</p>

    <p><b>Brittle</b> <i>see</i> Greek Cashera, Italian Ricotta,
    Turkish Rarush Durmar, and U.S. Hopi.</p>

    <p><b>Brizecon</b><br >
     <i>Savoy, France</i></p>

    <p>Imitation Reblochon made in the same Savoy province.</p>

    <p><b>Broccio, or le Brocconis</b><br >
     <i>Corsica, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, sour sheep milk or goat, like Bricotta and a first
    cousin to Italian Chiavari. Cream white, slightly salty; eaten
    fresh in Paris, where it is as popular as on its home island.
    Sometimes salted and half-dried, or made into little cakes with
    rum and sugar. Made and eaten all year.</p>

    <p><b>Broodkaas</b><br >
     <i>Holland</i></p>

    <p>Hard, flat, nutty.</p>

    <p><b>Brousses de la V&eacute;zubie, les</b><br >
     <i>Nice, France</i></p>

    <p>Small; sheep; long narrow bar shape, served either with
    powdered sugar or salt, pepper and chopped chives. Made in
    V&eacute;zubie.</p>

    <p><b>Brussels or Bruxelles</b><br >
     <i>Belgium</i></p>

    <p>Soft, washed skim milk, fermented, semisharp, from Louvain
    and Hal districts.</p>

    <p><b>Budapest</b><br >
     <i>Hungary</i></p>

    <p>Soft, fresh, creamy and mellow, a favorite at home in
    Budapest and abroad in Vienna.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 192 --><a id="Page_192"></a> <b>Buderich</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>A specialty in Dusseldorf.</p>

    <p><b>Bulle</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>A Swiss-Gruy&egrave;re.</p>

    <p><b>Bundost</b><br >
     <i>Sweden</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; mellow; tangy.</p>

    <p><b>Burgundy</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Named after the province, not the wine, but they go
    wonderfully together.</p>

    <p><b>Bushman</b><br >
     <i>Australia</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; yellow; tangy.</p>

    <p><b>Butter and Cheese</b> <i>see</i>
    <a href="#Page_111">Chapter 8</a>.</p>

    <p><b>"Butter," Serbian</b> <i>see</i> Kajmar.</p>

    <p><b>Buttermilk</b><br >
     <i>U.S. &amp; Europe</i></p>

    <p>Resembles cottage cheese, but of finer grain.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_C"></a><br >
     C</h3>

    <p><b>Cabe&ccedil;ou, le</b><br >
     <i>Auvergne, France</i></p>

    <p>Small; goat; from Maurs.</p>

    <p><b>Cabrillon</b><br >
     <i>Auvergne, France</i></p>

    <p>So much like the Cabre&ccedil;on they might be called sister
    nannies under the rind.</p>

    <p><b>Cachet d'Entrechaux, le, or Fromage Fort du
    Ventoux</b></p>

    <p><i>Provence Mountains, France</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; sheep; mixed with brandy, dry white wine and
    sundry seasonings. Well marinated and extremely strong. Season
    May to November.</p>

    <p><b>Caciocavallo</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>"Horse Cheese." The ubiquitous cheese of classical greats,
    imitated all around the world and back to Italy again.
    <i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 193 --><a id="Page_193"></a> <b>Caciocavallo Siciliano</b><br >
     <i>Sicily, also in U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Essentially a pressed Provolone. Usually from cow's whole
    milk, but sometimes from goat's milk or a mixture of the two.
    Weight between 17&frac12; and 26 pounds. Used for both table
    cheese and grating.</p>

    <p><b>Cacio Fiore, or Caciotta</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft as butter; sheep; in four-pound square frames;
    sweetish; eaten fresh.</p>

    <p><b>Cacio Pecorino Romano</b> <i>see</i> Pecorino.</p>

    <p><b>Cacio Romano</b> <i>see</i> Chiavari.</p>

    <p><b>Caerphilly</b><br >
     <i>Wales and England&mdash;Devon, Dorset, Somerset &amp;
    Wilshire</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; whole fresh milk; takes three weeks to ripen. Also
    sold "green," young and innocent, at the age of ten to eleven
    days when weighing about that many pounds. Since it has little
    keeping qualities it should be eaten quickly. Welsh miners eat
    a lot of it, think it specially suited to their needs, because
    it is easily digested and does not produce so much heat in the
    body as long-keeping cheeses.</p>

    <p><b>Caillebottes (Curds)</b><br >
     <i>France&mdash;Anjou, Poitou, Saintonge &amp;
    Vend&eacute;e</i></p>

    <p>Soft, creamy, sweetened fresh or sour milk clabbered with
    chardonnette, wild artichoke seed, over slow fire. Cut in
    lozenges and served cold not two hours after cooking. Smooth,
    mellow and aromatic. A high type of this unusual cheese is
    Jonch&eacute;e (<i>see</i>). Other cheeses are made with
    vegetable rennet, some from similar thistle or cardoon juice,
    especially in Portugal.</p>

    <p><b>Caille de Poitiers</b> <i>see</i> Petits pots.</p>

    <p><b>Caille de Habas</b><br >
     <i>Gascony, France</i></p>

    <p>Clabbered or clotted sheep milk.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 194 --><a id="Page_194"></a> <b>Cajassou</b><br >
     <i>P&eacute;rigord, France</i></p>

    <p>A notable goat cheese made in Cubjac.</p>

    <p><b>Calabrian</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>The Calabrians make good sheep cheese, such as this and
    Caciocavallo.</p>

    <p><b>Calcagno</b><br >
     <i>Sicily</i></p>

    <p>Hard; ewe's milk. Suitable for grating.</p>

    <p><b>Caledonian Cream</b><br >
     <i>Scotland</i></p>

    <p>More of a dessert than a true cheese. We read in
    <i>Scotland's Inner Man</i>: "A sort of fresh cream cheese,
    flavored with chopped orange marmalade, sugar brandy and lemon
    juice. It is whisked for about half an hour. Otherwise, if put
    into a freezer, it would be good ice-pudding."</p>

    <p><b>Calvados</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Medium-hard; tangy. Perfect with Calvados applejack from the
    same province.</p>

    <p><b>Calvenzano</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Gorgonzola, made in Bergamo.</p>

    <p><b>Cambrai</b> <i>see</i> Boulette.</p>

    <p><b>Cambridge, or York</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Soft; fresh; creamy; tangy. The curd is quickly made in one
    hour and dipped into molds without cutting to ripen for eating
    in thirty hours.</p>

    <p><b>Camembert</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter
    3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>"Camembert"</b><br >
     <i>Germany, U.S. &amp; elsewhere</i></p>

    <p>A West German imitation that comes in a cute little
    heart-shaped box which nevertheless doesn't make it any more
    like the Camembert <i>v&eacute;ritable</i> of Normandy.</p>

    <p><b>Camosun</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; open-textured, resembling Monterey. Drained curd
    is pressed in <!-- Page 195 --><a id="Page_195"></a>hoops, cheese is salted in brine for
       thirty hours, then coated with paraffin and cured for one to
       three months in humid room at 50&deg; to 60&deg; F.</p>

    <p><b>Canadian Club</b><br >
     <i>see</i> Cheddar Club.</p>

    <p><b>Cancoillotte, Cancaillotte, Canquoillotte, Quincoillotte,
    Cancoiade, Fromag&egrave;re, Temp&ecirc;te and "Pur&eacute;e"
    de fromage tres fort</b><br >
     <i>Franche-Comt&eacute;, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; sour milk; sharp and aromatic; with added eggs and
    butter and sometimes brandy or dry white wine. Sold in
    attractive small molds and pots. Other sharp seasonings besides
    the brandy or wine make this one of the strongest of French
    strong cheeses, similar to Fromage Fort.</p>

    <p><b>Canestrato</b><br >
     <i>Sicily, Italy</i></p>

    <p>Hard; mixed goat and sheep; yellow and strong. Takes one
    year to mature and is very popular both in Sicily where it is
    made to perfection and in Southern Colorado where it is
    imitated by and for Italian settlers.</p>

    <p><b>Cantal, Fromage de Cantal, Auvergne or Auvergne Bleu;
    also Fourme and La Tome.</b><br >
     <i>Auvergne, France</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; smooth; mellow; a kind of Cheddar, lightly colored
    lemon; yellow; strong, sharp taste but hardly any smell. Forty
    to a hundred-twenty pound cylinders. The rich milk from
    highland pastures is more or less skimmed and, being a very old
    variety, it is still made most primitively. Cured six weeks or
    six months, and when very old it's very hard and very sharp. A
    Cantal type is Laguiole or Guiole.</p>

    <p><b>Capitanata</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Sheep.</p>

    <p><b>Caprian</b><br >
     <i>Capri, Italy</i></p>

    <p>Made from milk of goats that still overrun the original Goat
    Island, and tangy as a buck.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 196 --><a id="Page_196"></a> <b>Caprino (Little Goat)</b><br >
     <i>Argentina</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; goat; sharp; table cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Caraway Loaf</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>This is just one imitation of dozens of German
    caraway-seeded cheeses that roam the world. In Germany there is
    not only K&uuml;mmel loaf cheese but a loaf of caraway-seeded
    bread to go with it. Milwaukee has long made a good
    K&uuml;mmelk&auml;se or hand cheese and it would take more than
    the fingers on both hands to enumerate all of the European
    originals, from Dutch Komynkaas through Danish King Christian
    IX and Norwegian Kuminost, Italian Freisa, Pomeranian Rinnen
    and Belgian Leyden, to Pennsylvania Pot.</p>

    <p><b>Cardiga, Queijo da</b><br >
     <i>Portugal</i></p>

    <p>Hard; sheep; oily; mild flavor. Named from cardo, cardoon in
    English, a kind of thistle used as a vegetable rennet in making
    several other cheeses, such as French Caillebottes curdled with
    chardonnette, wild artichoke seed. Only classical Greek sheep
    cheeses like Casera can compare with the superb ones from the
    Portuguese mountain districts. They are lusciously oily, but
    never rancidly so.</p>

    <p><b>Carlsbad</b><br >
     <i>Bohemia</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; sheep; white; slightly salted; expensive.</p>

    <p><b>Carr&eacute; Affin&eacute;</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, delicate, in small square forms; similar to Petit
    Carr&eacute; and Ancien Imp&eacute;rial (<i>see</i>).</p>

    <p><b>Carr&eacute; de l'Est</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Camembert, and imitated in the U.S.A.</p>

    <p><b>Cascaval Penir</b><br >
     <i>Turkey</i></p>

    <p>Cacciocavallo imitation consumed at home.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 197 --><a id="Page_197"></a> <b>Caseralla</b><br >
     <i>Greece</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; sheep; mellow; creamy.</p>

    <p><b>Casere</b><br >
     <i>Greece</i></p>

    <p>Hard; sheep; brittle; gray and greasy. But wonderful!
    Sour-sweet tongue tickle. This classical though greasy Grecian
    is imitated with goat milk instead of sheep in Southern
    California.</p>

    <p><b>Cashera</b><br >
     <i>Armenia and Greece</i></p>

    <p>Hard; goat or cow's milk; brittle; sharp; nutty. Similar to
    Casere and high in quality.</p>

    <p><b>Cashera</b><br >
     <i>Turkey</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; sheep.</p>

    <p><b>Casher Penner</b> <i>see</i> Kasher.</p>

    <p><b>Cashkavallo</b><br >
     <i>Syria</i></p>

    <p>Mellow but sharp imitation of the ubiquitous Italian
    Cacciocavallo.</p>

    <p><b>Casigiolu, Panedda, Pera di vacca</b><br >
     <i>Sardinia</i></p>

    <p>Plastic-curd cheese, made by the Caciocavallo method.</p>

    <p><b>Caskcaval or Kaschcavallo</b> <i>see</i> Feta.</p>

    <p><b>Caspian</b><br >
     <i>Caucasus</i></p>

    <p>Semihard. Sheep or cow, milked directly into cone-shaped
    cloth bag to speed the making. Tastes tangy, sharp and
    biting.</p>

    <p><b>Cassaro</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Locally consumed, seldom exported.</p>

    <p><b>Castelmagno</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Blue-mold, Gorgonzola type.</p>

    <p><b>Castelo Branco, White Castle</b><br >
     <i>Portugal</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; goat or goat and sheep; fermented. Similar to
    Serra da Estrella (<i>see</i>).</p>

    <p><!-- Page 198 --><a id="Page_198"></a> <b>Castillon, or Fromage de
       Gascony</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Fresh cream cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Castle, Schlossk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>North Austria</i></p>

    <p>Limburger type.</p>

    <p><b>Catanzaro</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Consumed locally, seldom exported.</p>

    <p><b>Cat's Head</b> <i>see</i> Katzenkopf.</p>

    <p><b>Celery</b><br >
     <i>Norway</i></p>

    <p>Flavored mildly with celery seeds, instead of the usual
    caraway.</p>

    <p><b>Cendr&eacute;e, la</b><br >
     <i>France&mdash;Orl&eacute;anais, Blois &amp; Aube</i></p>

    <p>Hard; sheep; round and flat. Other Cendr&eacute;es are
    Champenois or Ricey, Brie, d'Aizy and Olivet</p>

    <p><b>Cendr&eacute; d'Aizy</b><br >
     <i>Burgundy, France</i></p>

    <p>Available all year. <i>See</i> la Cendr&eacute;e.</p>

    <p><b>Cendr&eacute; de la Brie</b><br >
     <i>Ile-de-France, France</i></p>

    <p>Fall and winter Brie cured under the ashes, season September
    to May.</p>

    <p><b>Cendr&eacute; Champenois or Cendr&eacute; des
    Riceys</b><br >
     <i>Aube &amp; Marne, France</i></p>

    <p>Made and eaten from September to June, and ripened under the
    ashes.</p>

    <p><b>Cendr&eacute; Olivet</b> <i>see</i> Olivet.</p>

    <p><b>Cenis</b> <i>see</i> Mont Cenis.</p>

    <p><b>Certoso Stracchino</b><br >
     <i>Italy, near Milan</i></p>

    <p>A variety of Stracchino named after the Carthusian friars
    who have made it for donkey's years. It is milder and softer
    and creamier than the Taleggio because it's made of cow instead
    of goat milk, but it has less distinction for the same
    reason.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 199 --><a id="Page_199"></a> <b>Ceva</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft veteran of Roman times named from its town near
    Turin.</p>

    <p><b>Chabichou</b><br >
     <i>Poitou, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; goat; fresh; sweet and tasty. A vintage cheese of the
    months from April to December, since such cheeses don't last
    long enough to be vintaged like wine by the year.</p>

    <p><b>Chaingy</b><br >
     <i>Orl&eacute;ans, France</i></p>

    <p>Season September to June.</p>

    <p><b>Cham</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>One of those eminent Emmentalers from Cham, the home town of
    Mister Pfister (<i>see</i> Pfister).</p>

    <p><b>Chamois milk</b></p>

    <p>Aristotle said that the most savorous cheese came from the
    chamois. This small goatlike antelope feeds on wild mountain
    herbs not available to lumbering cows, less agile sheep or
    domesticated mountain goats, so it gives, in small quantity but
    high quality, the richest, most flavorsome of milk.</p>

    <p><b>Champenois or Fromage des Riceys</b><br >
     <i>Aube &amp; Marne, France</i></p>

    <p>Season from September to June. The same as Cendr&eacute;
    Champenois and des Riceys.</p>

    <p><b>Champol&eacute;on de Queyras</b><br >
     <i>Hautes-Alpes, France</i>.</p>

    <p>Hard; skim-milker.</p>

    <p><b>Chantelle</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Natural Port du Salut type described as "zesty" by some of
    the best purveyors of domestic cheeses. It has a sharp taste
    and little odor, perhaps to fill the demand for a "married
    man's Limburger."</p>

    <p><b>Chantilly</b> <i>see</i> Habl&eacute;.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 200 --><a id="Page_200"></a> <b>Chaource</b><br >
     <i>Champagne, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, nice to nibble with the bottled product of this same
    high-living Champagne Province. A kind of Camembert.</p>

    <p><b>Chapelle</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft.</p>

    <p><b>Charmey Fine</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Gruy&egrave;re type.</p>

    <p><b>Chaschol, or Chaschosis</b><br >
     <i>Canton of Grisons, Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Hard; skim; small wheels, eighteen to twenty-two inches in
    diameter by three to four inches high, weight twenty-two to
    forty pounds.</p>

    <p><b>Chasteaux</b> <i>see</i> Petits Fromages.</p>

    <p><b>Chateauroux</b> <i>see</i> Fromage de Ch&egrave;vre.</p>

    <p><b>Chaumont</b><br >
     <i>Champagne, France</i></p>

    <p>Season November to May.</p>

    <p><b>Chavignol</b> <i>see</i> Crottin.</p>

    <p><b>Chechaluk</b><br >
     <i>Armenia</i></p>

    <p>Soft; pot; flaky; creamy.</p>

    <p><b>Cheddar</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter
    3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Cheese bread</b><br >
     <i>Russia and U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>For centuries Russia has excelled in making a salubrious
    cheese bread called Notruschki and the cheese that flavors it
    is Tworog. (<i>See both</i>.) Only recently Schrafft's in New
    York put out a yellow, soft and toothsome cheese bread that has
    become very popular for toasting. It takes heat to bring out
    its full cheesy savor. Good when overlaid with cheese butter of
    contrasting piquance, say one mixed with Sapsago.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 201 --><a id="Page_201"></a> <b>Cheese butter</b></p>

    <p>Equal parts of creamed butter and finely grated or soft
    cheese and mixtures thereof. The imported but still cheap green
    Sapsago is not to be forgotten when mixing your own cheese
    butter.</p>

    <p><b>Cheese food</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>"Any mixtures of various lots of cheese and other solids
    derived from milk with emulsifying agents, coloring matter,
    seasonings, condiments, relishes and water, heated or not, into
    a homogeneous mass." (A long and kind word for a homely,
    tasteless, heterogeneous mess.) From an advertisement.</p>

    <p><b>Cheese hoppers</b> <i>see</i> Hoppers.</p>

    <p><b>Cheese mites</b> <i>see</i> Mites.</p>

    <p><b>Cheshire and Cheshire imitations</b> <i>see</i> with
    Cheddar in <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Cheshire-Stilton</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>In making this combination of Cheshire and Stilton, the blue
    mold peculiar to Stilton is introduced in the usual Cheshire
    process by keeping out each day a little of the curd and mixing
    it with that in which the mold is growing well. The result is
    the Cheshire in size and shape and general characteristics but
    with the blue veins of Stilton, making it really a Blue
    Cheddar. Another combination is Yorkshire-Stilton, and quite as
    distinguished.</p>

    <p><b>Chester</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Another name for Cheshire, used in France where formerly
    some was imported to make the visiting Britishers feel at
    home.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 202 --><a id="Page_202"></a> <b>Chevalier</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Curds sweetened with sugar.</p>

    <p><b>Chev&egrave;lle</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A processed Wisconsin.</p>

    <p><b>Ch&egrave;vre</b> <i>see</i> Fromages.</p>

    <p><b>Ch&egrave;vre de Chateauroux</b> <i>see</i> Fromages.</p>

    <p><b>Ch&egrave;vre petit</b> <i>see</i> Pet&igrave;ts
    Fromages.</p>

    <p><b>Ch&egrave;vre, Tome de</b> <i>see</i> Tome.</p>

    <p><b>Chevretin</b><br >
     <i>Savoy, France</i></p>

    <p>Goat; small and square. Named after the mammy nanny, as so
    many are.</p>

    <p><b>Chevrets, Ponta &amp; St. R&eacute;my</b><br >
     <i>Bresse &amp; Franche-Comt&eacute;, France</i></p>

    <p>Dry and semi-dry; crumbly; goat; small squares; lightly
    salted. Season December to April. Such small goat cheeses are
    named in the plural in France.</p>

    <p><b>Chevretons du Beaujolais &agrave; la cr&egrave;me,
    les</b><br >
     <i>Lyonnais, France</i></p>

    <p>Small goat-milkers served with cream. This is a fair sample
    of the railroad names some French cheeses stagger under.</p>

    <p><b>Chevrotins</b><br >
     <i>Savoy, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, dried goat milk; white; small; tangy and semi-tangy.
    Made and eaten from March to December.</p>

    <p><b>Chhana</b><br >
     <i>Asia</i></p>

    <p>All we know is that this is made of the whole milk of cows,
    soured, and it is not as unusual as the double "h" in its
    name.</p>

    <p><b>Chiavari</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>There are two different kinds named for the Chiavari region,
    and both are hard:<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Sour cow's milk, also
    known as Cacio Romano.</span><br >
     II. Sweet whole milker, similar to Corsican Broccio. Chiavari,
    the<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">historic little port between
    Genoa and Pisa, is more noted as the</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">birthplace of the barbaric
    "chivaree" razzing of newlyweds with</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">its raucous serenade of
    dishpans, sour-note bugling and such.</span><br >
     <!-- Page 203 --><a id="Page_203"></a></p>

    <p><b>Chives cream cheese</b></p>

    <p>Of the world's many fine fresh cheeses further freshened
    with chives, there's Belgian Herv&eacute; and French Claqueret
    (with onion added). (<i>See both</i>.) For our taste it's best
    when the chives are added at home, as it's done in Germany, in
    person at the table or just before.</p>

    <p><b>Christalinna</b><br >
     <i>Canton Graub&uuml;nden, Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Hard; smooth; sharp; tangy.</p>

    <p><b>Christian IX</b><br >
     <i>Denmark</i></p>

    <p>A distinguished spiced cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Ciclo</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft, small cream cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Cierp de Luchon</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Made from November to May in the Comt&eacute; de Foix, where
    it has the distinction of being the only local product worth
    listing with France's three hundred notables.</p>

    <p><b>Citeaux</b><br >
     <i>Burgundy, France</i></p>

    <p>Trappist Port-Salut.</p>

    <p><b>Clabber cheese</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Simply cottage cheese left in a cool place until it grows
    soft and automatically changes its name from cottage to
    clabber.</p>

    <p><b>Clairvaux</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Formerly made in a Benedictine monastery of that name.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 204 --><a id="Page_204"></a> <b>Claqueret, le</b><br >
     <i>Lyonnais, France</i></p>

    <p>Fresh cream whipped with chives, chopped fine with onions.
    <i>See</i> Chives.</p>

    <p><b>Cl&eacute;rimbert</b> <i>see</i> Alpin.</p>

    <p><b>Cleves</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>French imitation of the German imitation of a Holland-Dutch
    original.</p>

    <p><b>Cloves</b> <i>see</i> Nagelk&auml;se.</p>

    <p><b>Club, Potted Club, Snappy, Cold-pack and Comminuted
    cheese</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A. and Canada</i></p>

    <p>Probably McLaren's Imperial Club in pots was first to be
    called club, but others credit club to the U.S. In any case
    McLaren's was bought by an American company and is now
    all-American.</p>

    <p>Today there are many clubs that may sound swanky but taste
    very ordinary, if at all. They are made of finely ground aged,
    sharp Cheddar mixed with condiments, liquors, olives,
    pimientos, etc., and mostly carry come-on names to make the
    customers think they are getting something from Olde England or
    some aristocratic private club. All are described as
    "tangy."</p>

    <p>Originally butter went into the better clubs which were sold
    in small porcelain jars, but in these process days they are
    wrapped in smaller tin foil and wax-paper packets and called
    "snappy."</p>

    <p><b>Cocktail Cheeses</b></p>

    <p>Recommended from stock by Phil Alpert's "Cheeses of all
    Nations" stores:</p>

    <p>Argentine aged Gruy&egrave;re<br >
     Canadian d'Oka<br >
     French Bleu<br >
     <!-- Page 205 --><a id="Page_205"></a> Brie<br >
     Camembert<br >
     Fontainebleu<br >
     Pont l'Ev&ecirc;que<br >
     Port du Salut<br >
     Roblochon<br >
     Roquefort<br >
     Grecian Feta<br >
     Hungarian Brinza<br >
     Polish Warshawski Syr<br >
     Rumanian Kaskaval<br >
     Swiss Schweizerk&auml;se<br >
     American Cheddar in brandy<br >
     Hopi Indian</p>

    <p><b>Coeur &agrave; la Cr&egrave;me</b><br >
     <i>Burgundy, France</i></p>

    <p>This becomes Fromage &agrave; la Cr&egrave;me II
    (<i>see</i>) when served with sugar, and it is also called a
    heart of cream after being molded into that romantic shape in a
    wicker or willow-twig basket.</p>

    <p><b>Coeurs d'Arras</b><br >
     <i>Artois, France</i></p>

    <p>These hearts of Arras are soft, smooth, mellow, caressingly
    rich with the cream of Arras.</p>

    <p><b>Coffee-flavored cheese</b></p>

    <p>Just as the Dutch captivated coffee lovers all over the
    world with their coffee-flavored candies, Haagische Hopjes, so
    the French with Jonch&eacute;e cheese and Italians with Ricotta
    satisfy the universal craving by putting coffee in for
    flavor.</p>

    <p><b>Coimbra</b><br >
     <i>Portugal</i></p>

    <p>Goat or cow; semihard; firm; round; salty; sharp. Not only
    one of those college-educated cheeses but a postgraduate one,
    bearing the honored name of Portugal's ancient academic
    center.</p>

    <p><b>Colby</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Cheddar, but of softer body and more open
    texture. Contains more <!-- Page 206 --><a id="Page_206"></a> moisture, and doesn't keep as well as
       Cheddar.</p>

    <p><b>College-educated</b></p>

    <p>Besides Coimbra several countries have cheeses brought out
    by their colleges. Even Brazil has one in Minas Geraes and
    Transylvania another called Kolos-Monostor, while our
    agricultural colleges in every big cheese state from California
    through Ames in Iowa, Madison in Wisconsin, all across the
    continent to Cornell in New York, vie with one another in
    turning out diploma-ed American Cheddars and such of high
    degree. It is largely to the agricultural colleges that we owe
    the steady improvement in both quality and number of foreign
    imitations since the University of Wisconsin broke the curds
    early in this century by importing Swiss professors to teach
    the high art of Emmentaler.</p>

    <p><b>Colwick</b> <i>see</i> Slipcote.</p>

    <p><b>Combe-air</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Small; similar to Italian Stracchino in everything but
    size.</p>

    <p><b>Commission</b><br >
     <i>Holland</i></p>

    <p>Hard; ball-shaped like Edam and resembling it except being
    darker in color and packed in a ball weighing about twice as
    much, around eight pounds. It is made in the province of North
    Holland and in Friesland. It is often preferred to Edam for
    size and nutty flavor.</p>

    <p><b>Compi&egrave;gne</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft</p>

    <p><b>Comt&eacute;</b> <i>see</i> Gruy&egrave;re.</p>

    <p><b>Conches</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Emmentaler type.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 207 --><a id="Page_207"></a> <b>Condrieu, Rigotte de la</b><br >
     <i>Rhone Valley below Lyons, France</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; goat; small; smooth; creamy; mellow; tasty. A
    cheese of cheeses for epicures, only made from May to November
    when pasturage is rich.</p>

    <p><b>Confits au Marc de Bourgogne</b> <i>see</i> Epoisses.</p>

    <p><b>Confits au Vin Blanc</b> <i>see</i> Epoisses.</p>

    <p><b>Cooked, or Pennsylvania pot</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Named from cooking sour clabbered curd to the melting point.
    When cool it is allowed to stand three or four days until it is
    colored through. Then it is cooked again with salt, milk, and
    usually caraway. It is stirred until it's as thick as molasses
    and strings from a spoon. It is then put into pots or molds,
    whose shape it retains when turned out.</p>

    <p>All cooked cheese is apt to be tasteless unless some of the
    milk flavor cooked out is put back in, as wheat germ is now
    returned to white bread. Almost every country has a cooked
    cheese all its own, with or without caraway, such as the
    following:</p>

    <p>Belgium&mdash;Kochtounk&auml;se<br >
     Germany&mdash;Kochk&auml;se, Topfen<br >
     Luxembourg&mdash;Kochenk&auml;se<br >
     France&mdash;Fromage Ouit &amp; Le P'Teux<br >
     Sardinia&mdash;Pannedas, Freisa</p>

    <p><b>Coon</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Cornhusker</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A Nebraska product similar to Cheddar and Colby, but with
    softer body and more moisture.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 208 --><a id="Page_208"></a> <b>Cornimont</b><br >
     <i>Vosges, France</i></p>

    <p>A splendid French version of Alsatian M&uuml;nster spiked
    with caraway, in flattish cylinders with mahogany-red coating.
    It is similar to G&eacute;rom&eacute; and the harvest cheese of
    G&eacute;rardmer in the same lush Vosges Valley.</p>

    <p><b>Corse, Roquefort de</b><br >
     <i>Corsica, France</i></p>

    <p>Corsican imitation of the real Roquefort, and not nearly so
    good, of course.</p>

    <p><b>Cossack</b><br >
     <i>Caucasus</i></p>

    <p>Cow or sheep. There are two varieties: I. Soft, cured in
    brine and still soft and mild after two months in<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">the salt bath.</span><br >
     II. Semihard and very sharp after aging in brine for a year or
    more.</p>

    <p><b>Cotherstone</b><br >
     <i>Yorkshire, England</i></p>

    <p>Also known as Yorkshire-Stilton, and Wensleydale No. I.
    (<i>See both</i>.)</p>

    <p><b>Cotrone, Cotronese</b> <i>see</i> Pecorino.</p>

    <p><b>Cotta</b> <i>see</i> Pasta.</p>

    <p><b>Cottage cheese</b></p>

    <p>Made in all countries where any sort of milk is obtainable.
    In America it's also called pot, Dutch, and smearcase. The
    English, who like playful names for homely dishes, call cottage
    cheese smearcase from the German Schmierk&auml;se. It is also
    called Glumse in Deutschland, and, together with cream, formed
    the basis of all of our fine Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine.</p>

    <p><b>Cottenham or Double Cottenham</b><br >
     <i>English Midlands</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; double cream; blue mold. Similar to Stilton but
    creamier and richer, and made in flatter and broader forms.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 209 --><a id="Page_209"></a> <b>Cottslowe</b><br >
     <i>Cotswold, England</i></p>

    <p>A brand of cream cheese named for its home in Cotswold,
    Gloucester. Although soft, it tastes like hard Cheddar.</p>

    <p><b>Coulommiers Frais, or Petit-Moule</b><br >
     <i>Ile-de-France, France</i></p>

    <p>Fresh cream similar to Petit Suisse. (<i>See</i>.)</p>

    <p><b>Coulommiers, le, or Brie de Coulommiers</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Also called Petit-moule, from its small form. This genuine
    Brie is a pocket edition, no larger than a Camembert, standing
    only one inch high and measuring five or six inches across. It
    is made near Paris and is a great favorite from the autumn and
    winter months, when it is made, on until May. The making starts
    in October, a month earlier than most Brie, and it is off the
    market by July, so it's seldom tasted by the avalanche of
    American summer tourists.</p>

    <p><b>Cow cheese</b></p>

    <p>Sounds redundant, and is used mostly in Germany, where an
    identifying word is added, such as Berliner Kuhk&auml;se and
    Alt Kuhk&auml;se: old cow cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Cream cheese</b><br >
     <i>International</i></p>

    <p>England, France and America go for it heavily. English cream
    begins with Devonshire, the world-famous, thick fresh cream
    that is sold cool in earthenware pots and makes fresh
    berries&mdash;especially the small wild strawberries of rural
    England&mdash;taste out of this world. It is also drained on
    straw mats and formed into fresh hardened cheeses in small
    molds. (<i>See</i> Devonshire cream.) Among regional
    specialties are the following, named from their place of origin
    or commercial brands:</p>

    <p>Cambridge<br >
     Cottslowe<br >
     Cornwall<br >
     <!-- Page 210 --><a id="Page_210"></a> Farm Vale<br >
     Guilford<br >
     Homer's<br >
     "Italian"<br >
     Lincoln<br >
     New Forest<br >
     Rush (from being made on rush or straw mats&mdash;<i>see</i>
    Rush)<br >
     St. Ivel (distinguished for being made with acidophilus
    bacteria)<br >
     Scotch Caledonian<br >
     Slipcote (famous in the eighteenth century)<br >
     Victoria<br >
     York</p>

    <p><b>Cr&egrave;me Chantilly</b> <i>see</i> Habl&eacute;.</p>

    <p><b>Cr&egrave;me de Gien</b> <i>see</i> Fromage.</p>

    <p><b>Cr&egrave;me de Gruy&egrave;re</b><br >
     <i>Franche-Comt&eacute; France</i></p>

    <p>Soft Gruy&egrave;re cream cheese, arrives in America in
    perfect condition in tin foil packets. Expensive but worth
    it.</p>

    <p><b>Cr&egrave;me des Vosges</b><br >
     <i>Alsace, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft cream. Season October to April.</p>

    <p><b>Cr&egrave;me Double</b> <i>see</i>
    Double-Cr&egrave;me.</p>

    <p><b>Cr&egrave;me, Fromage &agrave; la</b> <i>see</i>
    Fromage.</p>

    <p><b>Cr&egrave;me, Fromage Blanc &agrave; la</b> <i>see</i>
    Fromage Blanc.</p>

    <p><b>Cr&egrave;me St Gervais</b> <i>see</i> Pots de
    Cr&egrave;me St Gervais.</p>

    <p><b>Cr&egrave;met Nantais</b><br >
     <i>Lower Loire, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft fresh cream of Nantes.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 211 --><a id="Page_211"></a> <b>Cr&egrave;mets, les</b><br >
     <i>Anjou, France</i></p>

    <p>A fresh cream equal to English Devonshire, served more as a
    dessert than a dessert cheese. The cream is whipped stiff with
    egg whites, drained and eaten with more fresh cream, sprinkled
    with vanilla and sugar.</p>

    <p><b>Cremini</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft, small cream cheese from Cremona, the violin town. And
    by the way, art-loving Italians make ornamental cheeses in the
    form of musical instruments, statues, still life groups and
    everything.</p>

    <p><b>Creole</b><br >
     <i>Louisiana, U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Soft, rich, unripened cottage cheese type, made by mixing
    cottage-type curd and rich cream.</p>

    <p><b>Crescenza, Carsenza, Stracchino Crescenza, Crescenza
    Lombardi</b><br >
     <i>Lombardy, Italy</i></p>

    <p>Uncooked; soft; creamy; mildly sweet; fast-ripening;
    yellowish; whole milk. Made from September to April.</p>

    <p><b>Creuse</b><br >
     <i>Creuse, France</i></p>

    <p>A two-in-one farm cheese of skimmed milk, resulting from two
    different ways of ripening, after the cheese has been removed
    from perforated earthen molds seven inches in diameter and five
    or six inches high, where it has drained for several
    days:<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. It is salted and turned
    frequently until very dry and hard.</span><br >
     II. It is ripened by placing in tightly closed mold, lined
    with straw.<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">This softens, flavors, and
    turns it golden-yellow. (<i>See</i> Hay</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">or Fromage de
    Foin.)</span></p>

    <p><b>Creusois, or Gu&eacute;ret</b><br >
     <i>Limousin, France</i></p>

    <p>Season, October to June.</p>

    <p><b>Croissant Demi-sel</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, double cream, semisalty. All year.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 212 --><a id="Page_212"></a> <b>Crottin de Chavignol</b><br >
     <i>Berry, France</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; goat's milk; small; lightly salted; mellow. In
    season April to December. The name is not exactly
    complimentary.</p>

    <p><b>Crowdie, or Cruddy butter</b><br >
     <i>Scotland</i></p>

    <p>Named from the combination of fresh sweet milk curds pressed
    together with fresh butter. A popular breakfast food in
    Inverness and the Ross Shires. When kept for months it develops
    a high flavor. A similar curd and butter is made by Arabs and
    stored in vats, the same as in India, the land of ghee, where
    there's no refrigeration.</p>

    <p><b>Crying Kebbuck</b></p>

    <p>F. Marion MacNeill, in <i>The Scots Kitchen</i> says that
    this was the name of a cheese that used to be part of the
    Kimmers feast at a lying-in.</p>

    <p><b>Cuajada</b> <i>see</i> Venezuela.</p>

    <p><b>Cubjac</b> <i>see</i> Cajassou.</p>

    <p><b>Cuit</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Cuit.</p>

    <p><b>Cumin, M&uuml;nster au</b> <i>see</i> M&uuml;nster.</p>

    <p><b>Cup</b> <i>see</i> Koppen.</p>

    <p><b>Curd</b> <i>see</i> Granular curd, Sweet curd and York
    curd.</p>

    <p><b>Curds and butter</b><br >
     <i>Arabia</i></p>

    <p>Fresh sweet milk curd and fresh butter are pressed together
    as in making Crowdie or Cruddy butter in Scotland. The Arabs
    put this strong mixture away in vats to get it even stronger
    than East Indian ghee.</p>

    <p><b>Cur&eacute;, Fromage de</b> <i>see</i> Nantais.</p>

    <h3><!-- Page 213 --><a id="Page_213"></a> <a id="AtoZ_D"></a><br >
     D</h3>

    <p><b>Daisies, fresh</b></p>

    <p>A popular type and packaging of mild Cheddar, originally
    English. Known as an "all-around cheese," to eat raw, cook, let
    ripen, and use for seasoning.</p>

    <p><b>Dalmatian</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>Hard ewe's-milker.</p>

    <p><b>Dambo</b><br >
     <i>Denmark</i></p>

    <p>Semihard and nutty.</p>

    <p><b>Damen, or Glory of the Mountains (Gloires des
    Montagnes)</b><br >
     <i>Hungary</i></p>

    <p>Soft, uncured, mild ladies' cheese, as its name asserts.
    Popular Alpine snack in Viennese caf&eacute;s with coffee
    gossip in the afternoon.</p>

    <p><b>Danish Blue</b><br >
     <i>Denmark</i></p>

    <p>Semihard, rich, blue-veined, piquant, delicate, excellent
    imitation of Roquefort. Sometimes called "Danish Roquefort,"
    and because it is exported around the world it is Denmark's
    best-known cheese. Although it sells for 20% to 30% less than
    the international triumvirate of Blues, Roquefort, Stilton and
    Gorgonzola, it rivals them and definitely leads lesser
    Blues.</p>

    <p><b>Danish Export</b><br >
     <i>Denmark</i></p>

    <p>Skim milk and buttermilk. Round and flat, mild and mellow. A
    fine cheese, as many Danish exports are.</p>

    <p><b>Dansk Schweizerost</b><br >
     <i>Denmark</i></p>

    <p>Danish Swiss cheese, imitation Emmentaler, but with small
    holes. Nutty, sweet dessert or "picnic cheese," as Swiss is
    often called.</p>

    <p><b>Danzig</b><br >
     <i>Poland</i></p>

    <p>A pleasant cheese to accompany a glass of the great liqueur,
    Goldwasser, Eau de Vie de Danzig, from the same celebrated
    city.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 214 --><a id="Page_214"></a> <b>Darling</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>One of the finest Vermont Cheddars, handled for years by one
    of America's finest fancy food suppliers, S.S. Pierce of
    Boston.</p>

    <p><b>Dauphin</b><br >
     <i>Flanders, France</i></p>

    <p>Season, November to May.</p>

    <p><b>d'Aurigny, Fromage</b> <i>see</i> Alderney.</p>

    <p><b>Daventry</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>A Stilton type, white, small, round, flat and very rich,
    with "blue" veins of a darker green.</p>

    <p><b>Decize</b><br >
     <i>Nivernaise, France</i></p>

    <p>In season all year. Soft, creamy, mellow, resembles
    Brie.</p>

    <p><b>de Foin, Fromage</b> <i>see</i> Hay.</p>

    <p><b>de Fontine</b><br >
     <i>Spain</i></p>

    <p>Crumbly, sharp, nutty.</p>

    <p><b>de Gascony, Fromage</b> <i>see</i> Castillon.</p>

    <p><b>de G&eacute;rardmer</b> <i>see</i> R&eacute;collet.</p>

    <p><b>Delft</b><br >
     <i>Holland</i></p>

    <p>About the same as Leyden. (<i>See</i>.)</p>

    <p><b>D&eacute;licieux</b></p>

    <p>The brand name of a truly delicious Brie.</p>

    <p><b>Delikat</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A mellow breakfast spread, on the style of the German
    Fr&uuml;hst&uuml;ck original. (<i>See</i>.)</p>

    <p><b>de Lile, Boule</b></p>

    <p>French name for Belgian Oude Kaas.</p>

    <p><b>Demi-&Eacute;tuve</b></p>

    <p>Half-size &Eacute;tuve. (<i>See</i>.)</p>

    <p><b>Demi Petit Suisse</b></p>

    <p>The name for an extra small Petit Suisse to distinguish it
    from the Gros.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 215 --><a id="Page_215"></a> <b>Demi-Sel</b><br >
     <i>Normandy, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, whole, creamy, lightly salted, resembles Gournay but
    slightly saltier; also like U.S. cream cheese, but softer and
    creamier.</p>

    <p><b>Demi-Sel, Croissant</b> <i>see</i> Croissant
    Demi-Sel.</p>

    <p><b>Derby, or Derbyshire</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Hard; shape like Austrian Nagelkassa and the size of
    Cheshire though sometimes smaller. Dry, large, flat, round,
    flaky, sharp and tangy. A factory cheese said to be identical
    with Double Gloucester and similar to Warwickshire, Wiltshire
    and Leicester. The experts pronounce it "a somewhat inferior
    Cheshire, but deficient in its quality and the flavor of
    Cheddar." So it's unlikely to win in any cheese derby in spite
    of its name.</p>

    <p><b>Devonshire cream and cheese</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Devonshire cream is world famous for its thickness and
    richness. Superb with wild strawberries; almost a cream cheese
    by itself. Devonshire cream is made into a luscious cheese
    ripened on straw, which gives it a special flavor, such as that
    of French Foin or Hay cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Dolce Verde</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>This creamy blue-vein variety is named Sweet Green, because
    cheesemongers are color-blind when it comes to the blue-greens
    and the green-blues.</p>

    <p><b>Domaci Beli Sir</b><br >
     <i>Yugoslavia</i></p>

    <p>"Sir" is not a title but the word for cheese. This is a
    typical ewe's-milker cured in a fresh sheep skin.</p>

    <p><b>Domestic Gruy&egrave;re</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>An imitation of a cheese impossible to imitate.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 216 --><a id="Page_216"></a> <b>Domestic Swiss</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A</i></p>

    <p>Same as domestic Gruy&egrave;re, maybe more so, since it is
    made in ponderous 150-to 200-pound wheels, chiefly in Wisconsin
    and Ohio. The trouble is there is no Alpine pasturage and
    Emmentaler Valley in our country.</p>

    <p><b>Domiati</b><br >
     <i>Egypt</i></p>

    <p>Whole or partly skimmed cow's or buffalo's milk. Soft;
    white; no openings; mild and salty when fresh and cleanly acid
    when cured. It's called "a pickled cheese" and is very popular
    in the Near East.</p>

    <p><b>Dorset, Double Dorset, Blue Dorset, or Blue
    Vinny</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Blue mold type from Dorsetshire; crumbly, sharp; made in
    flat forms. "Its manufacture has been traced back 150 years in
    the family of F.E. Dare, who says that in all probability it
    was made longer ago than that." (<i>See</i> Blue Vinny.)</p>

    <p><b>Dotter</b><br >
     <i>N&uuml;rnberg, Germany</i></p>

    <p>An entirely original cheese perfected by G. Leuchs in
    N&uuml;rnberg. He enriched skim milk with yolk of eggs and made
    the cheese in the usual way. When well ripened it is
    splendid.</p>

    <p><b>Doubles</b></p>

    <p>The English name cheese made of whole milk "double," such as
    Double Cottenham, Double Dorset, Double Gloucester. "Singles"
    are cheeses from which some of the cream has been removed.</p>

    <p><b>Double-cream</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Wensleydale.</p>

    <p><b>Double-cr&egrave;me</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>There are several of this name, made in the summer when milk
    is richest in cream. The full name is Fromage &agrave; la
    <!-- Page 217 -->
     <a id="Page_217"></a>Double-cr&egrave;me, and Pommel is one
       well known. They are made throughout France in season and
       are much in demand.</p>

    <p><b>Dresdener Bierk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>A celebrated hand cheese made in Dresden. The typical soft,
    skim milker, strong with caraway and drunk dissolved in beer,
    as well as merely eaten.</p>

    <p><b>Drinking cheeses</b></p>

    <p>Not only Dresdener, but dozens of regional hand cheeses in
    Germanic countries are melted in steins of beer or glasses of
    wine to make distinctive cheesed drinks for strong stomachs and
    noses. This peps up the drinks in somewhat the same way as ale
    and beer are laced with pepper sauce in some parts.</p>

    <p><b>Dry</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>From the drinking cheese just above to dry cheese is quite a
    leap. "This cheese, known as Sperrk&auml;se and
    Trockenk&auml;se, is made in the small dairies of the eastern
    part of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol. It is an extremely
    simple product, made for home consumption and only in the
    winter season, when the milk cannot be profitably used for
    other purposes. As soon as the milk is skimmed it is put into a
    large kettle which can be swung over a fire, where it is kept
    warm until it is thoroughly thickened from souring. It is then
    broken up and cooked quite firm. A small quantity of salt and
    sometimes some caraway seed are added, and the curd is put into
    forms of various sizes. It is then placed in a drying room,
    where it becomes very hard, when it is ready for eating." (From
    U.S. Department of Agriculture <i>Bulletin</i> No. 608.)</p>

    <p><!-- Page 218 --><a id="Page_218"></a> <b>Dubreala</b> <i>see</i> Brina.</p>

    <p><b>Duel</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>Soft; skim milk; hand type; two by two by one-inch cube.</p>

    <p><b>Dunlop</b><br >
     <i>Scotland</i></p>

    <p>One of the national cheeses of Scotland, but now far behind
    Cheddar, which it resembles, although it is closer in texture
    and moister. Semihard; white; sharp; buttery; tangy and rich in
    flavor. It is one of the "toasting cheeses" resembling
    Lancashire, too, in form and weight. Made in Ayr, Lanark and
    Renfrew and sold in the markets of Kilmarnock, Kirkcudbright
    and Wigtown.</p>

    <p><b>Durak</b><br >
     <i>Turkey</i></p>

    <p>Mixed with butter; mellow and smoky. Costs three dollars a
    pound.</p>

    <p><b>Duralag, or Bgug-Panir</b><br >
     <i>Armenia</i></p>

    <p>Sheep; semisoft to brittle hard; square; sharp but mellow
    and tangy with herbs. Sometimes salty from lying in a brine
    bath from two days to two months.</p>

    <p><b>Durmar, Rarush</b> <i>see</i> Rarush.</p>

    <p><b>Dutch</b><br >
     <i>Holland</i></p>

    <p>Cream cheese of skim milk, very perishable spread.</p>

    <p><b>Dutch cheese</b></p>

    <p>American vernacular for cottage or pot cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Dutch Cream Cheese</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Made in England although called Dutch. Contains eggs, and is
    therefore richer than Dutch cream cheese in Holland itself. In
    America we call the original Holland-kind Dutch, cottage, pot,
    and farmer.</p>

    <p><b>Dutch Mill</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A specialty of Oakland, California.</p>

    <p><b>Dutch Red Balls</b></p>

    <p>English name for Edam.</p>

    <h3><!-- Page 219 --><a id="Page_219"></a> <a id="AtoZ_E"></a><br >
     E</h3>

    <p><b>Echourgnac, Trappe d'</b><br >
     <i>P&eacute;rigord, France</i></p>

    <p>Trappist monastery Port-Salut made in Limousin.</p>

    <p><b>Edam</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Egg</b><br >
     <i>Finland</i></p>

    <p>Semihard. One of the few cheeses made by adding eggs to the
    curds. Others are Dutch Cream Cheese of England; German Dotter;
    French Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese), and Westphalian.
    Authorities agree that these should be labeled "egg cheese" so
    the buyers won't be fooled by their richness. The Finns age
    their eggs even as the Chinese ripen their hundred-year-old
    eggs, by burying them in grain, as all Scandinavians do, and
    the Scotch as well, in the oat bin. But none of them is left a
    century to ripen, as eggs are said to be in China.</p>

    <p><b>Elbinger, or Elbing</b><br >
     <i>West Prussia</i></p>

    <p>Hard; crumbly; sharp. Made of whole milk except in winter
    when it is skimmed. Also known as Werderk&auml;se and
    Niederungsk&auml;se.</p>

    <p><b>Ekiwani</b><br >
     <i>Caucasus</i></p>

    <p>Hard; sheep; white; sharp; salty with some of the brine it's
    bathed in.</p>

    <p><b>Elisavetpolen, or Eriwani</b><br >
     <i>Caucasus</i></p>

    <p>Hard; sheep; sweetish-sharp and slightly salty when fresh
    from the brine bath. Also called Kasach (Cossack), Tali, Kurini
    and Karab in different locales.</p>

    <p><b>Elmo Table</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft, mellow, tasty.</p>

    <p><b>Emiliano</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Hard; flavor varies from mild to sharp. Parmesan type.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 220 --><a id="Page_220"></a> <b>Emmentaler</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>There are so many, many types of this celebrated Swiss all
    around the world that we're not surprised to find Lapland
    reindeer milk cheese listed as similar to Emmentaler of the
    hardest variety. (<i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>,
    <i>also</i> Vacherin Fondu.)</p>

    <p><b>"En enveloppe"</b></p>

    <p>French phrase of packaged cheese, "in the envelope." Similar
    to English packet and our process. Raw natural cheese the
    French refer to frankly as <i>nu</i>, "in the nude."</p>

    <p><b>Engadine</b><br >
     <i>Graub&uuml;nden, Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; mild; tangy-sweet.</p>

    <p><b>English Dairy</b><br >
     <i>England and U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Extra-hard, crumbly and sharp. Resembles Cheddar and has
    long been imitated in the States, chiefly as a cooking
    cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Entrechaux, le Cachat d'</b> <i>see</i> Cachat.</p>

    <p><b>Epoisses, Fromage d'</b><br >
     <i>C&ocirc;te d'Or, Upper Burgundy, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, small cylinder with flattened end, about five inches
    across. The season is from November to July. Equally proud of
    their wine and cheese, the Burgundians marry white wine or
    <i>marc</i> to d'Epoisses in making <i>confits</i> with that
    name.</p>

    <p><b>Erbo</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Gorgonzola. The Galvani cheesemakers of Italy who
    put out both Bel Paese and Taleggio also export Erbo to our
    shores.</p>

    <p><b>Erce</b><br >
     <i>Languedoc, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, smooth and sharp. A winter cheese in season only from
    November to May.</p>

    <p><b>Eriwani</b> <i>see</i> Elisavetpolen.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 221 --><a id="Page_221"></a> <b>Ervy</b><br >
     <i>Champagne, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; yellow rind; smooth; tangy; piquant; seven by
    two-and-a-half inches, weight four pounds. Resembles Camembert.
    A washed cheese, also known as Fromage de Troyes. In season
    November to May.</p>

    <p><b>Essex</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Imitation of an extinct or at least dormant English
    type.</p>

    <p><b>Estrella</b> <i>see</i> Serra da Estrella.</p>

    <p><b>&Eacute;tuve and Demi-&Eacute;tuve</b><br >
     <i>Holland</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; smooth; mellow. In full size and demi (half) size.
    In season all year.</p>

    <p><b>Evarglice</b><br >
     <i>Yugoslavia</i></p>

    <p>Sharp, nutty flavor.</p>

    <p><b>Excelsior</b><br >
     <i>Normandy, France</i></p>

    <p>Season all year.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_F"></a><br >
     F</h3>

    <p><b>Factory Cheddar</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Very Old Factory Cheddar is the trade name for well-aged
    sharp Cheddar. New Factory is just that&mdash;mild, young and
    tractable&mdash;too tractable, in fact.</p>

    <p><b>Farm</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Known as Ferme; Maigre (thin); Fromage &agrave; la Pie
    (nothing to do with apple pie); and Mou (weak). About the same
    as our cottage cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Farmer</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>This is curd only and is nowadays mixed with pepper, lachs,
    nuts, fruits, almost anything. A very good base for your own
    fancy spread, or season a slab to fancy and bake it like a hoe
    cake, but in the oven.</p>

    <p><b>Farmhouse</b> <i>see</i> Herrg&aring;rdsost.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 222 --><a id="Page_222"></a> <b>Farm Vale</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Cream cheese of Somerset wrapped in tin foil and boxed in
    wedges, eight to a box.</p>

    <p><b>Fat cheese</b> <i>see</i> Frontage Gras and Maile
    Pener.</p>

    <p><b>Fenouil</b> <i>see</i> Tome de Savoie.</p>

    <p><b>Ferme</b> <i>see</i> Farm.</p>

    <p><b>Feta</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Feuille de Dreux</b><br >
     <i>B&eacute;arn, France</i></p>

    <p>November to May.</p>

    <p><b>"Filled cheese"</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Before our processed and food cheese era some scoundrels in
    the cheese business over there added animal fats and margarine
    to skimmed milk to make it pass as whole milk in making cheese.
    Such adulteration killed the flavor and quality, and no doubt
    some of the customers. Luckily in America we put down this
    vicious counterfeiting with pure food laws. But such foreign
    fats are still stuffed into the skimmed milk of many foreign
    cheeses. To take the place of the natural butterfat the phony
    fats are whipped in violently and extra rennet is added to
    speed up coagulation.</p>

    <p><b>Fin de Si&egrave;cle</b><br >
     <i>Normandy, France</i></p>

    <p>Although this is an "all year" cheese its name dates it back
    to the years at the close of the nineteenth century.</p>

    <p><b>Fiore di Alpe</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Hard; sharp; tangy. Romantically named "Flowers of the
    Alps."</p>

    <p><b>Fiore Sardo</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Ewe's milk. Hard. Table cheese when immature; a condiment
    when fully cured.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 223 --><a id="Page_223"></a> <b>Flandre, Tuile de</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A kind of Marolles.</p>

    <p><b>Fleur de Deauville</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A type of Brie, in season December to May.</p>

    <p><b>Fleur des Alpes</b> <i>see</i> Bel Paese and
    Millefiori.</p>

    <p><b>Floedeost</b><br >
     <i>Norway</i></p>

    <p>Like Gjedeost, but not so rich because it's made of cow's
    milk.</p>

    <p><b>Fl&oslash;tost</b><br >
     <i>Norway</i></p>

    <p>Although the name translates Cream Cheese it is made of
    boiled whey. Similar to Mysost, but fatter.</p>

    <p><b>Flower</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Soft and fragrant with petals of roses, violets, marigolds
    and such, delicately mixed in. Since the English are so fond of
    oriental teas scented with jasmine and other flowers, perhaps
    they imported the idea of mixing petals with their cheese,
    since there is no oriental cheese for them to import except
    bean curd.</p>

    <p><b>Fodder cheese</b></p>

    <p>A term for cheese made from fodder in seasons when there is
    no grass. Good fresh grass is the essence of all fine cheese,
    so silo or barn-fed cows can't give the kind of milk it
    takes.</p>

    <p><b>Foggiano</b><br >
     <i>Apulia, Italy</i></p>

    <p>A member of the big Pecorino family because it's made of
    sheep's milk.</p>

    <p><b>Foin, Fromage de</b> <i>see</i> Hay.</p>

    <p><b>Fondu, Vacherin</b> <i>see</i> Vacherin Fondu.</p>

    <p><b>Fontainebleau</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Named after its own royal commune. Soft; fresh cream;
    smooth; mellow; summer variety.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 224 --><a id="Page_224"></a><b>Fontina</b> <i>Val d'Acosta,
       Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft; goat; creamy; with a nutty flavor and delightful
    aroma.</p>

    <p><b>Fontine, de</b><br >
     <i>Franche-Comt&eacute;, France</i></p>

    <p>A favorite all-year product.</p>

    <p><b>Fontinelli</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Semidry; flaky; nutty; sharp.</p>

    <p><b>Fontini</b><br >
     <i>Parma, Italy</i></p>

    <p>Hard; goat; similar to Swiss, but harder and sharper. From
    the same region as Parmesan.</p>

    <p><b>Food cheese</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>An unattractive type of processed mixes, presumably with
    some cheese content to flavor it.</p>

    <p><b>Forez, also called d'Ambert</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>The process of making this is said to be very crude, and the
    ripening unusual. The cheeses are cylindrical, ten inches in
    diameter and six inches high. They are ripened by placing them
    on the floor of the cellar, covering with dirt, and allowing
    water to trickle over them. Many are spoiled by the unusual
    growths of mold and bacteria. The flavor of the best of these
    is said to resemble Roquefort. (From <i>Bulletin</i> No. 608 of
    the U.S. Department of Agriculture, to which we are indebted
    for descriptions of hundreds of varieties in this
    alphabet.)</p>

    <p><b>Formagelle</b><br >
     <i>Northwest Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft, ripened specialty put up in half-pound packages.</p>

    <p><b>Formaggi di Pasta Filata</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>A group of Italian cheeses made by curdling milk with
    rennet, warming and fermenting the curd, heating it until it is
    plastic, drawing it into ropes and then kneading and shaping
    while hot. Provolone, Caciocavallo and Mozzarella are in this
    group.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 225 --><a id="Page_225"></a> <b>Formaggini, and Formaggini di
       Lecco</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Several small cheeses answer to this name, of which Lecco is
    typical. A Lombardy dessert cheese measuring 1&frac14; by two
    inches, weighing two ounces. It is eaten from the time it is
    fresh and sweet until it ripens to piquance. Sometimes made of
    cow and goat milk mixed, with the addition of oil and vinegar,
    as well as salt, pepper, sugar and cinnamon.</p>

    <p><b>Formaggio d'Oro</b><br >
     <i>Northwest Italy</i></p>

    <p>Hard, sharp, mountain-made.</p>

    <p><b>Formaggio Duro (Dry) and Formaggio Tenero</b> <i>see</i>
    Nostrale.</p>

    <p><b>Fort</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Fort.</p>

    <p><b>Fourme, Cantal, and la Tome</b><br >
     <i>Auvergne, France</i></p>

    <p>This is a big family in the rich cheese province of
    Auvergne, where many mountain varieties are baptized after
    their districts, such as Aubrac, Aurilla, Grand Murol,
    R&ocirc;che and Salers. (<i>See</i> Fourme d'Ambert and
    Cantal.)</p>

    <p><b>Fourme de Montebrison</b><br >
     <i>Auvergne, France</i></p>

    <p>This belongs to the Fourme clan and is in season from
    November to May.</p>

    <p><b>Fourme de Salers</b> <i>see</i> Cantal, which it
    resembles so closely it is sometimes sold under that name.</p>

    <p><b>Fresa, or Pannedas</b><br >
     <i>Sardinia, Italy</i></p>

    <p>A soft, mild and sweet cooked cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Fribourg</b><br >
     <i>Italy and Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Hard; cooked-curd, Swiss type very similar to Spalen.
    (<i>See</i>)</p>

    <p><b>Frissche Kaas, Fresh cheese</b><br >
     <i>Holland</i></p>

    <p>Dutch generic name for any soft, fresh spring cheese,
    although some is made in winter, beginning in November.</p>

    <p><b>Friesian</b> <i>see</i> West Friesian.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 226 --><a id="Page_226"></a> <b>Fromage &agrave; la Creme</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p><span style="margin-left: 1em;">I. Sour milk drained and
    mixed with cream. Eaten with sugar. That of</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Gien is a noted produce, and
    so is d'Isigny.</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">II.
    Franche-Comt&eacute;&mdash;fresh sheep milk melted with fresh
    thick cream,</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">whipped egg whites and
    sugar.</span><br >
     III. Morvan&mdash;homemade cottage cheese. When milk has
    soured solid it is<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">hung in cheesecloth in a
    cool place to drain, then mixed with a</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">little fresh milk and served
    with cream.</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">IV. When Morvan or other
    type is put into a heart-shaped wicker basket</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">for a mold, and marketed in
    that, it becomes Coeur &agrave; la Cr&egrave;me,</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">heart of cream, to be eaten
    with sugar.</span></p>

    <p><b>Fromage &agrave; la Pie</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Blanc just
    below, and Farm</p>

    <p><b>Fromage Bavarois &agrave; la Vanille</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Dessert cheese sweetened and flavored with vanilla and named
    after Bavaria where it probably originated.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage Blanc</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft cream or cottage cheese, called &agrave; la Pie, too,
    suggesting pie &agrave; la mode; also Farm from the place it's
    made. Usually eaten with salt and pepper, in summer only. It is
    the ascetic version of Fromage &agrave; la Cr&egrave;me,
    usually eaten with salt and pepper and without cream or sugar,
    except in the Province of Bresse where it is served with cream
    and called Fromage Blanc &agrave; la Cr&egrave;me.</p>

    <p>Every milky province has its own Blanc. In Champagne it's
    made of fresh ewe milk. In Upper Brittany it is named after
    Nantes and also called Fromage de
    <!-- Page 227 --><a id="Page_227"></a> Cur&eacute;. Other districts devoted to
       it are Alsace-Lorraine, Auvergne, Languedoc, and
       Ile-de-France.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage Bleu</b> <i>see</i> Bleu d'Auvergne.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese)</b><br >
     <i>Thionville, Lorraine, France</i></p>

    <p>Although a specialty of Lorraine, this cooked cheese is
    produced in many places. First it is made with fresh whole cow
    milk, then pressed and potted. After maturing a while it is
    de-potted, mixed with milk and egg yolk, re-cooked and
    re-potted.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage d'Aurigny</b> <i>see</i> Alderney.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage de Bayonne</b><br >
     <i>Bayonne, France</i></p>

    <p>Made with ewe's milk.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage de B&ocirc;ite</b><br >
     <i>Doubs, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, mountain-made, in the fall only. Resembles Pont
    l'Ev&ecirc;que.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage de Bourgogne</b></p>

    <p><i>see</i> Burgundy.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage de Ch&egrave;vre de Chateauroux</b><br >
     <i>Berry, France</i></p>

    <p>A seasonal goat cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage de Cur&eacute;</b> <i>see</i> Nantais.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage de Fontenay-le Comt&eacute;</b><br >
     <i>Poitou, France</i></p>

    <p>Half goat and half cow milk.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage de Gascony</b> <i>see</i> Castillon.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage de Pau</b> <i>see</i> La Fonc&eacute;e.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage de St. R&eacute;my</b> <i>see</i> Chevrets.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 228 --><a id="Page_228"></a> <b>Fromage de Serac</b><br >
     <i>Savoy, France</i></p>

    <p>Half and half, cow and goat, from Serac des Allues.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage de Troyes</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Two cheeses have this name. (<i>See</i> Barberry and
    Ervy.)</p>

    <p><b>Fromage de Vache</b></p>

    <p>Another name for Autun.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage de Monsieur Fromage</b><br >
     <i>Normandy, France</i></p>

    <p>This Cheese of Mr. Cheese is as exceptional as its name. Its
    season runs from November to June. It comes wrapped in a green
    leaf, maybe from a grape vine, suggesting what to drink with
    it. It is semidry, mildly snappy with a piquant pungence all
    its own. The playful name suggests the celebrated dish,
    Poulette de Madame Poulet, Chick of Mrs. Chicken.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage Fort</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Several cooked cheeses are named Fort (strong) chiefly in
    the department of Aisne. Well-drained curd is melted, poured
    into a cloth and pressed, then buried in dry ashes to remove
    any whey left. After being fermented eight to ten days it is
    grated, mixed with butter, salt, pepper, wine, juniper berries,
    butter and other things, before fermenting some more.</p>

    <p>Similar extra-strong cheeses are the one in Lorraine called
    Fondue and Fromag&egrave;re of eastern France, classed as the
    strongest cheeses in all France.</p>

    <p><i>Fort No. I</i>: That of Flanders, potted with juniper
    berries, as the gin of this section is flavored, plus pepper,
    salt and white wine.</p>

    <p><i>Fort No. II</i>: That from Franche-Comt&eacute; Small dry
    goat cheeses pounded and <!-- Page 229 --><a id="Page_229"></a> potted with thyme, tarragon, leeks,
       pepper and brandy. (<i>See</i> Hazebrook.)</p>

    <p><i>Fort No. III</i>: From Provence, also called Cachat
    d'Entrechaux. In production from May to November. Semihard,
    sheep milk, mixed with brandy, white wine, strong herbs and
    seasonings and well marinated.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage Gras (fat cheese)</b><br >
     <i>Savoy, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, round, fat ball called <i>t&ecirc;te de mort</i>,
    "death's head." Winter Brie is also called Gras but there is no
    relation. This macabre name incited Victor Meusy to these
    lines:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span><i>Les gens &agrave; l'humeur
            morose</i><br ></span> <span><i>Prennent la
            T&ecirc;te-de-Mort</i>.<br ></span> <span>People of a
            morose disposition<br ></span> <span>Take the Death's
            Head.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p><b>Fromage Mou</b></p>

    <p>Any soft cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Fromage Piquant</b> <i>see</i> Remoudon.</p>

    <p><b>Fromag&egrave;re</b> <i>see</i> Canquillote.</p>

    <p><b>Fromages de Ch&egrave;vre</b><br >
     <i>Orl&eacute;anais, France</i></p>

    <p>Small, dried goat-milkers.</p>

    <p><b>Fr&uuml;hst&uuml;ck</b></p>

    <p>Also known as breakfast and lunch cheese. Small rounds
    two-and-a-half to three inches in diameter. Limburger type.
    Cheeses on which many Germans and Americans break their
    fast.</p>

    <p><b>Ftinoporino</b><br >
     <i>Macedonia, Greece</i></p>

    <p>Sheep's-milker similar to Brinza.</p>

    <h3><!-- Page 230 --><a id="Page_230"></a> <a id="AtoZ_G"></a><br >
     G</h3>

    <p><b>Gaisk&auml;sli</b><br >
     <i>Germany and Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>A general name for goat's milk cheese. Usually a small
    cylinder three inches in diameter and an inch-and-a-half thick,
    weighing up to a half pound. In making, the curds are set on a
    straw mat in molds, for the whey to run away. They are salted
    and turned after two days to salt the other side. They ripen in
    three weeks with a very pleasing flavor.</p>

    <p><b>Gammelost</b><br >
     <i>Norway</i></p>

    <p>Hard, golden-brown, sour-milker. After being pressed it is
    turned daily for fourteen days and then packed in a chest with
    wet straw. So far as we are concerned it can stay there. The
    color all the way through is tobacco-brown and the taste, too.
    It has been compared to medicine, chewing tobacco, petrified
    Limburger, and worse. In his <i>Encyclopedia of Food</i>
    Artemas Ward says that in Gammelost the ferments absorb so much
    of the curd that "in consequence, instead of eating cheese
    flavored by fungi, one is practically eating fungi flavored
    with cheese."</p>

    <p><b>Garda</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft, creamy, fermented. A truly fine product made in the
    resort town on Gardasee where d'Annunzio retired. It is one of
    those luscious little ones exported in tin foil to America, and
    edible, including the moldy crust that could hardly be called a
    rind.</p>

    <p><b>Garden</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Cream cheese with some greens or vegetables mixed in.</p>

    <p><b>Garlic</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A processed Cheddar type flavored with garlic.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 231 --><a id="Page_231"></a> <b>Garlic-onion Link</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A strong processed Cheddar put up to look like links of
    sausage, nobody knows why.</p>

    <p><b>Gascony, Fromage de</b> <i>see Castillon.</i></p>

    <p><b>Gautrias</b><br >
     <i>Mayenne, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, cylinder weighing about five pounds and resembling
    Port-Salut.</p>

    <p><b>Gavot</b><br >
     <i>Hautes-Alpes, France</i></p>

    <p>A good Alpine cheese whether made of sheep, goat or cow
    milk.</p>

    <p><b>Geheimrath</b><br >
     <i>Netherlands</i></p>

    <p>A factory cheese turned out in small quantities. The color
    is deep yellow and it resembles a Baby Gouda in every way, down
    to the weight</p>

    <p><b>G&eacute;rardmer, de</b> <i>see</i> R&eacute;collet</p>

    <p><b>German-American adopted types</b></p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Bierk&auml;se Delikat Grinnen Hand Harzk&auml;se
        K&uuml;mmelk&auml;se Koppen Lager Liederkranz Mein Kaese
        M&uuml;nster Old Heidelberg Schafk&auml;se (sheep) Silesian
        Stein Tilsit Weisslack (piquant like Bavarian
        Allg&auml;uer)</p>
    </div>

    <p><b>G&eacute;rom&eacute;, la</b><br >
     <i>Vosges, France</i></p>

    <p>Semihard: cylinders up to eleven pounds; brick-red rind;
    like M&uuml;nster, but larger. Strong, fragrant and
    <!-- Page 232 --><a id="Page_232"></a>flavorsome, sometimes with aniseed. It
       stands high at home, where it is in season from October to
       April.</p>

    <p><b>Gervais</b><br >
     <i>Ile-de-France, France</i></p>

    <p>Cream cheese like Neufch&acirc;tel, long made by Maison
    Gervais, near Paris. Sold in tiny tin-foil squares not much
    larger than old-time yeast. Like Petit Suisse, it makes a
    perfect luncheon dessert with honey.</p>

    <p><b>Gesundheitk&auml;se, Holsteiner</b> <i>see</i> Holstein
    Health.</p>

    <p><b>Getmesost</b><br >
     <i>Sweden</i></p>

    <p>Soft; goat; whey; sweet.</p>

    <p><b>Gex</b><br >
     <i>Pays de Gex, France</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; skim milk; blue-veined. A "little" Roquefort in
    season from November to May.</p>

    <p><b>Gex Marbr&eacute;</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A very special type marbled with rich milks of cow, goat and
    sheep, mixed. A full-flavored ambassador of the big
    international Blues family, that are green in spite of their
    name.</p>

    <p><b>Gien</b> <i>see</i> Fromage &agrave; la Cr&egrave;me.</p>

    <p><b>Gislev</b><br >
     <i>Scandinavia</i></p>

    <p>Hard; mild, made from skimmed cow's milk.</p>

    <p><b>Gjetost</b><br >
     <i>Norway</i></p>

    <p>A traditional chocolate-colored companion piece to
    Gammelost, but made with goat's milk.</p>

    <p><b>Glavis</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>The brand name of a cone of Sapsago. (<i>See</i>.)</p>

    <p><b>Glattk&auml;se, or Gelbk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Smooth cheese or yellow cheese. A classification of
    sour-milkers that includes Olm&uuml;tzer Quargel.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 233 --><a id="Page_233"></a> <b>Cloire des Montagnes</b> <i>see</i>
       Damen.</p>

    <p><b>Gloucester</b><br >
     <i>Gloucestershire, England</i></p>

    <p>There are two types:<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Double, the better of the
    two Gloucesters, is eaten only after six</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">months of ripening. "It has a
    pronounced, but mellow, delicacy of</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">flavor...the tiniest morsel
    being pregnant with savour. To measure</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">its refinement, it can undergo
    the same comparison as that we apply</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">to vintage wines. Begin with a
    small piece of Red Cheshire. If you</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">then pass to a morsel of
    Double Gloucester, you will find that the</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">praises accorded to the latter
    have been no whit exaggerated."</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>A Concise Encyclopedia of
    Gastronomy,</i> by Andr&eacute; L. Simon.</span><br >
     II. Single. By way of comparison, the spring and summer Single
    Gloucester<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ripens in two months and is
    not as big as its "large grindstone"</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">brother. And neither is it
    "glorified Cheshire." It is mild and</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">"as different in qualify of
    flavour as a young and crisp wine is</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">from an old
    vintage."</span></p>

    <p><b>Glumse</b><br >
     <i>West Prussia, Germany</i></p>

    <p>A common, undistinguished cottage cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Glux</b><br >
     <i>Nivernais, France</i></p>

    <p>Season, all year.</p>

    <p><b>Goat</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A frank and fair name for a semihard, brittle mouthful of
    flavor. Every country has its goat specialties. In Norway the
    milk is boiled dry, then fresh milk or cream added. In
    Czechoslovakia the peasants smoke the cheese up the kitchen
    chimney. No matter how you slice it, goat cheese is always
    notable or noble.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 234 --><a id="Page_234"></a> <b>Gold-N-Rich</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Golden in color and rich in taste. Bland, as American taste
    demands. Like Bel Paese but not so full-flavored and a bit
    sweet. A good and deservedly popular cheese none the less,
    easily recognized by its red rind.</p>

    <p><b>Gomost</b><br >
     <i>Norway</i></p>

    <p>Usually made from cow's milk, but sometimes from goat's.
    Milk is curdled with rennet and condensed by heating until it
    has a butter-like consistency. (<i>See</i> Mysost.)</p>

    <p><b>Gorgonzola</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Besides the standard type exported to us (<i>See</i>
    <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.) there is White Gorgonzola,
    little known outside Italy where it is enjoyed by local
    caseophiles, who like it put up in crocks with brandy, too.</p>

    <p><b>Gouda</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter
    3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Gouda, Kosher</b><br >
     <i>Holland</i></p>

    <p>The same semihard good Gouda, but made with kosher rennet.
    It is a bit more mellow than most and, like all kosher
    products, is stamped by the Jewish authorities who prepare
    it.</p>

    <p><b>Goya</b><br >
     <i>Corrientes, Argentine</i></p>

    <p>Hard, dry, Italian type for grating. Like all fine Argentine
    cheeses the milk of pedigreed herds fed on prime pampas grass
    distinguishes Goya from lesser Parmesan types, even back in
    Italy.</p>

    <p>It is interesting that the nitrate in Chilean soil makes
    their wines the best in America, and the richness of Argentine
    milk does the same for their cheeses, most of which are Italian
    imitations and some of which excel the originals.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 235 --><a id="Page_235"></a> <b>Gournay</b><br >
     <i>Seine, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, similar to Demi-sel, comes in round and flat forms
    about &frac14; pound in weight. Those shaped like Bondons
    resemble corks about &frac34; of an inch thick and four inches
    long.</p>

    <p><b>Grana</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Another name for Parmesan. From "grains", the size of big
    shot, that the curd is cut into.</p>

    <p><b>Grana Lombardo</b><br >
     <i>Lombardy</i></p>

    <p>The same hard type for grating, named after its origin in
    Lombardy.</p>

    <p><b>Grana Reggiano</b><br >
     <i>Reggio, Italy</i></p>

    <p>A brand of Parmesan type made near Reggio and widely
    imitated, not only in Lombardy and Mantua, but also in the
    Argentine where it goes by a pet name of its
    own&mdash;Regianito.</p>

    <p><b>Grande Bornand, la</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>A luscious half-dried sheep's milker.</p>

    <p><b>Granular curd</b> <i>see</i> Stirred curd.</p>

    <p><b>Gras, or Velvet Kaas</b><br >
     <i>Holland</i></p>

    <p>Named from its butterfat content and called "Moors Head",
    <i>T&ecirc;te de Maure</i>, in France, from its shape and size.
    The same is true of Fromage de Gras in France, called
    <i>T&ecirc;te de Mort</i>, "Death's Head". Gras is also the
    popular name for Brie that's made in the autumn in France and
    sold from November to May. (<i>See</i> Brie.)</p>

    <p><b>Gratairon</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Goat milk named, as so many are, from the place it is
    made.</p>

    <p><b>Graub&uuml;nden</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>A luscious half-dried sheep's milker.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 236 --><a id="Page_236"></a> <b>Green Bay</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Medium-sharp, splendid White Cheddar from Green Bay,
    Wisconsin, the Limburger county.</p>

    <p><b>Grey</b><br >
     <i>Germany and Austrian Tyrol</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; sour skim milk with salty flavor from curing in
    brine bath. Named from the gray color that pervades the entire
    cheese when ripe. It has a very pleasant taste.</p>

    <p><b>Gruy&egrave;re</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter
    3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>G&uuml;ssing, or Land-l-kas</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Brick. Skim milk. Weight between four and eight
    pounds.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_H"></a><br >
     H</h3>

    <p><b>Habas</b> <i>see</i> Caille.</p>

    <p><b>Habl&eacute; Cr&egrave;me Chantilly</b><br >
     <i>&Ouml;smo, Sweden</i></p>

    <p>Soft ripened dessert cheese made from pasteurized cream by
    the old Walla Creamery. Put up in five-ounce wedge-shaped boxes
    for export and sold for a high price, well over two dollars a
    pound, in fancy big city groceries. Truly an aristocrat of
    cheeses to compare with the finest French Brie or Camembert.
    <i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Hand</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Hard</b><br >
     <i>Puerto Rico</i></p>

    <p>Dry; tangy.</p>

    <p><b>Harzk&auml;se, Harz</b><br >
     <i>Harz Mountains, Germany</i></p>

    <p>Tiny hand cheese. Probably the world's smallest soft cheese,
    varying from 2&frac12; inches by 1&frac12; down to &frac14; by
    1&frac12;. Packed in little boxes, a dozen together, rubbing
    rinds, as close as sardines. And like Harz canaries, they
    thrive on seeds, chiefly caraway.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 237 --><a id="Page_237"></a> <b>Harz&eacute;</b><br >
     <i>Belgium</i></p>

    <p>Port-Salut type from the Trappist monastery at
    Harz&eacute;.</p>

    <p><b>Hasandach</b><br >
     <i>Turkey</i></p>

    <p>Bland; sweet.</p>

    <p><b>Hausk&auml;se.</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Limburger type. Disk-shaped.</p>

    <p><b>Haute Marne</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; square.</p>

    <p><b>Hay, or Fromage au Foin</b><br >
     <i>Seine, France</i></p>

    <p>A skim-milker resembling "a poor grade of Livarot." Nothing
    to write home about, except that it is ripened on new-mown
    hay.</p>

    <p><b>Hazebrook</b></p>

    <p>There are two kinds:</p>

    <p><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Flemish; a Fromage Fort
    type with white wine, juniper, salt and</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">pepper. Excessively strong for
    bland American tasters.</span><br >
     II. Franche-Comt&eacute;, France; small dry goat's milker,
    pounded, potted and<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">marinated in a mixture of
    thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy.</span></p>

    <p><b>Head</b></p>

    <p>Four cheeses are called Head:</p>

    <p>The French Death's Head.<br >
     Swiss Monk's Head.<br >
     Dutch Cat's Head.<br >
     Moor's Head.</p>

    <p>There's headcheese besides but that's made of a pig's head
    and is only a cheese by discourtesy.</p>

    <p><b>Health</b> <i>see</i> Holstein.</p>

    <p><b>Herbesthal</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Named from a valley full of rich <i>herbes</i> for
    grazing.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 238 --><a id="Page_238"></a> <b>Herkimer</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Cheddar type; nearly white. <i>See</i>
    <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Herrg&aring;rdsost, Farm House or Manor House</b><br >
     <i>West Gothland and Jamtland, Sweden</i></p>

    <p>Hard Emmentaler type in two qualities: full cream and half
    cream. Weighs 25 to 40 pounds. It is the most popular cheese in
    all Sweden and the best is from West Gothland and Jutland.</p>

    <p><b>Herrg&aring;rdstyp</b> <i>see</i> Hush&aring;llsost.</p>

    <p><b>Herv&eacute;</b><br >
     <i>Belgium</i></p>

    <p>Soft; made in cubes and peppered with <i>herbes</i> such as
    tarragon, parsley and chives. It flourishes from November to
    May and comes in three qualities: extra cream, cream, and part
    skim milk.</p>

    <p><b>Hickory Smoked</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Good smoke is often wasted on bad cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Hohenburg</b> <i>see</i> Box No. II.</p>

    <p><b>Hohenheim</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Soft; part skimmed milk; half-pound cylinders. (See Box No.
    I.)</p>

    <p><b>Hoi Poi</b><br >
     <i>China</i></p>

    <p>Soybean cheese, developed by vegetable rennet. Exported in
    jars.</p>

    <p><b>Hoja</b> <i>see</i> Queso de.</p>

    <p><b>Hollander</b><br >
     <i>North Germany</i></p>

    <p>Imitation Dutch Goudas and Edams, chiefly from Neukirchen in
    Holstein.</p>

    <p><b>Holstein Dairy</b> <i>see</i> Leather.</p>

    <p><b>Holsteiner, or Old Holsteiner</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Eaten best when old, with butter, or in the North, with
    dripping.</p>

    <p><b>Holstein Health, or Holsteiner
    Gesundheitk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Sour-milk curd pressed hard and then cooked in a tin kettle
    with a little cream and salt. When mixed and melted it is
    poured into half-pound molds and cooled.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 239 --><a id="Page_239"></a> <b>Holstein Skim Milk or Holstein
       Magerk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Skim-milker colored with saffron. Its name, "thin cheese,"
    tells all.</p>

    <p><b>Hop, Hopfen</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Small, one inch by 2&frac12; inches, packed in hops to
    ripen. An ideal beer cheese, loaded with lupulin.</p>

    <p><b>Hopi</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Hard; goat; brittle; sharp; supposed to have been made first
    by the Hopi Indians out west where it's still at home.</p>

    <p>Horner's<br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>An old cream cheese brand in Redditch where Worcestershire
    sauce originated.</p>

    <p><b>Horse Cheese</b></p>

    <p>Not made of mare's milk, but the nickname for Caciocavallo
    because of the horse's head used to trademark the first edition
    of it.</p>

    <p><b>Hum</b><br >
     <i>Holland</i></p>

    <p>Brand name of one of those mild little red Baby Goudas that
    make you say "Ho-hum."</p>

    <p><b>Hush&aring;llsost, Household Cheese</b><br >
     <i>Sweden</i></p>

    <p>Popular in three types: Popular in three types:<br >
     Herrg&aring;rdstyp&mdash;Farmhouse<br >
     V&auml;stg&ouml;tatyp&mdash;Westgotland<br >
     Sveciatyp&mdash;Swedish</p>

    <p><b>Hvid Gjetost</b><br >
     <i>Norway</i></p>

    <p>A strong variety of Gjetost, little known and less liked
    outside of Scandinavia.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_I"></a><br >
     I</h3>

    <p><b>Icelandic</b></p>

    <p>In <i>Letters from Iceland</i>, W.H. Auden says: "The
    ordinary cheese is like a strong Dutch and good. There is also
    a brown sweet cheese, like the Norwegian." Doubtless the latter
    is Gjetost.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 240 --><a id="Page_240"></a> <b>Ihlefield</b><br >
     <i>Mecklenburg, Germany</i></p>

    <p>A hand cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Ilha, Queijo de</b><br >
     <i>Azores</i></p>

    <p>Semihard "Cheese of the Isle," largely exported to mother
    Portugal, measuring about a foot across and four inches high.
    The one word, <i>Ilha</i>, Isle, covers the several Azorian
    Islands whose names, such as <i>Pico</i>, Peak, and
    <i>Terceiro</i>, Third, are sometimes added to their
    cheeses.</p>

    <p><b>Imp&eacute;rial, Ancien</b> <i>see</i> Ancien.</p>

    <p><b>Imperial Club</b><br >
     <i>Canada</i></p>

    <p>Potted Cheddar; snappy; perhaps named after the famous
    French Ancien Imp&eacute;rial.</p>

    <p><b>Incanestrato</b><br >
     <i>Sicily, Italy</i></p>

    <p>Very sharp; white; cooked; spiced; formed into large round
    "heads" from fifteen to twenty pounds. <i>See</i> Majocchino, a
    kind made with the three milks, goat, sheep and cow, and
    enriched with olive oil besides.</p>

    <p><b>Irish Cheeses</b></p>

    <p>Irish Cheddar and Irish Stilton are fairly ordinary
    imitations named after their native places of manufacture:
    Ardagh, Galtee, Whitehorn, Three Counties, etc.</p>

    <p><b>Isigny</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Full name Fromage &agrave; la Cr&egrave;me d'Isigny.
    <i>(See.)</i> Cream cheese. The American cheese of this name
    never amounted to much. It was an attempt to imitate Camembert
    in the Gay Nineties, but it turned out to be closer to
    Limburger. (<i>See</i> <a href="#Page_11">Chapter 2</a>.)</p>

    <p>In France there is also Cr&egrave;me d'Isigny, thick fresh
    cream that's as famous as England's Devonshire and comes as
    close to being cheese as any cream can.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 241 --><a id="Page_241"></a> <b>Island of Orl&eacute;ans</b><br >
     <i>Canada</i></p>

    <p>This soft, full-flavored cheese was doubtless brought from
    France by early emigr&eacute;s, for it has been made since 1869
    on the Orl&eacute;ans Island in the St. Lawrence River near
    Quebec. It is known by its French name, Le Fromage
    Raffin&eacute; de l'Ile d'Orl&eacute;ans, and lives up to the
    name "refined."</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_J"></a><br >
     J</h3>

    <p><b>Jack</b> <i>see</i> Monterey.</p>

    <p><b>Jochberg</b><br >
     <i>Tyrol, Germany</i></p>

    <p>Cow and goat milk mixed in a fine Tyrolean product, as all
    mountain cheese are. Twenty inches in diameter and four inches
    high, it weighs in at forty-five pounds with the rind on.</p>

    <p><b>Jonch&eacute;e</b><br >
     <i>Santonge, France</i></p>

    <p>A superior Caillebotte, flavored with rum, orange-flower
    water or, uniquely, black coffee.</p>

    <p><b>Josephine</b><br >
     <i>Silesia, Germany</i></p>

    <p>Soft and ladylike as its name suggests. Put up in small
    cylindrical packages.</p>

    <p><b>Journiac</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter
    3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Julost</b><br >
     <i>Sweden</i>.</p>

    <p>Semihard; tangy.</p>

    <p><b>Jura Bleu, or Septmoncel</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Hard: blue-veined; sharp; tangy.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_K"></a><br >
     K</h3>

    <p><b>Kaas, Oude</b><br >
     <i>Belgium</i></p>

    <p>Flemish name for the French Boule de Lille.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 242 --><a id="Page_242"></a> <b>Kackavalj</b><br >
     <i>Yugoslavia</i></p>

    <p>Same as Italian Caciocavallo.</p>

    <p><b>Kaiser-k&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>This was an imperial cheese in the days of the kaisers and
    is still made under that once awesome name. Now it's just a
    jolly old mellow, yellow container of tang.</p>

    <p><b>Kajmar, or Serbian Butter</b><br >
     <i>Serbia and Turkey</i></p>

    <p>Cream cheese, soft and bland when young but ages to a tang
    between that of any goat's-milker and Roquefort.</p>

    <p><b>Kamembert</b><br >
     <i>Yugoslavia</i></p>

    <p>Imitation Camembert.</p>

    <p><b>Karaghi La-La</b><br >
     <i>Turkey</i></p>

    <p>Nutty and tangy.</p>

    <p><b>Kareish</b><br >
     <i>Egypt</i></p>

    <p>A pickled cheese, similar to Domiati.</p>

    <p><b>Karut</b><br >
     <i>India</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; mellow; for grating and seasoning.</p>

    <p><b>Karvi</b><br >
     <i>Norway</i></p>

    <p>Soft; caraway-seeded; comes in smallish packages.</p>

    <p><b>Kash</b><br >
     <i>Rumania</i></p>

    <p>Soft, white, somewhat stringy cheese named cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Kashcavallo, Caskcaval</b><br >
     <i>Greece</i></p>

    <p>A good imitation of Italian Caciocavallo.</p>

    <p><b>Kasher, or Caher, Penner</b><br >
     <i>Turkey</i></p>

    <p>Hard; white; sharp.</p>

    <p><b>Kash Kwan</b><br >
     <i>Bulgaria and the Balkans</i></p>

    <p>An all-purpose goat's milk, Parmesan type, eaten sliced when
    young, grated when old. An attempt to imitate it in Chicago
    failed. It is sold in Near East quarters in New York,
    Washington and all big American cities.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 243 --><a id="Page_243"></a> <b>Kaskaval</b><br >
     <i>Rumania</i></p>

    <p>Identical with Italian Caciocavallo, widely imitated, and
    well, in Greece, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Transylvania and
    neighboring lands. As popular as Cheddar in England, Canada and
    U.S.A.</p>

    <p><b>Kasseri</b><br >
     <i>Greece</i></p>

    <p>Hard; ewe's milk, usually.</p>

    <p><b>Katschkawalj</b><br >
     <i>Serbia</i></p>

    <p>Just another version of the international Caciocavallo.</p>

    <p><b>Katzenkopf, Cat's Head</b><br >
     <i>Holland</i></p>

    <p>Another name for Edam. (<i>See</i>
    <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.)</p>

    <p><b>Kaukauna Club</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Widely advertised processed cheese food.</p>

    <p><b>Kauna</b><br >
     <i>Lithuania</i></p>

    <p>A hearty cheese that's in season all the year around.</p>

    <p><b>Kefalotir, Kefalotyi</b><br >
     <i>Yugoslavia, Greece and Syria</i></p>

    <p>Both of these hard, grating cheeses are made from either
    goat's or ewe's milk and named after their shape, resembling a
    Greek hat, or Kefalo.</p>

    <p><b>Keg-ripened</b><br >
     <i>see</i> Brand.</p>

    <p><b>King Christian IX</b><br >
     <i>Denmark</i></p>

    <p>Sharp with caraway. Popular with everybody.</p>

    <p><b>Kingdom Farm</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A, near Ithaca, N.Y.</i> The Rutherfordites or
    Jehovah's Witnesses make Brick, Limburger and M&uuml;nster that
    are said to be most delectable by those mortals lucky enough to
    get into the Kingdom Farm. Unfortunately their cheese is not
    available elsewhere.</p>

    <p><b>Kirgischerk&auml;se</b> <i>see</i> Krutt.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 244 --><a id="Page_244"></a> <b>Kjarsgaard</b><br >
     <i>Denmark</i></p>

    <p>Hard; skim; sharp; tangy.</p>

    <p><b>Klatschk&auml;se, Gossip Cheese</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>A rich "ladies' cheese" corresponding to Damen; both
    designed to promote the flow of gossip in afternoon
    <i>Kaffee-klatsches</i> in the <i>Konditories</i>.</p>

    <p><b>Kloster, Kloster K&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Bavaria</i></p>

    <p>Soft; ripe; finger-shaped, one by one by four inches. In
    Munich this was, and perhaps still is, carried by brew masters
    on their tasting tours "to bring out the excellence of a
    freshly broached tun." Named from being made by monks in early
    cloisters, down to this day.</p>

    <p><b>Kochenk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Luxembourg</i></p>

    <p>Cooked white dessert cheese. Since it is salt-free it is
    recommended for diets.</p>

    <p><b>Koch K&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>This translates "cooked cheese."</p>

    <p><b>Kochtounk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Belgium</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft, cooked and smoked. Bland flavor.</p>

    <p><b>Kolos-monostor</b><br >
     <i>Rumania</i></p>

    <p>Sheep; rectangular four-pounder, 8&frac12; by five by three
    inches. One of those college-educated cheeses turned out by the
    students and professors at the Agricultural School of
    Transylvania.</p>

    <p><b>Kolosvarer</b><br >
     <i>Rumania</i></p>

    <p>A Trappist Port-Salut imitation made with water-buffalo
    milk, as are so many of the world's fine cheeses.</p>

    <p><b>Komijnekaas, Komynekass</b><br >
     <i>North Holland</i></p>

    <p>Spiked with caraway seeds and named after them.</p>

    <p><b>Konigsk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>A regal name for a German imitation of Bel Paese.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 245 --><a id="Page_245"></a> <b>Kopanisti</b><br >
     <i>Greece</i></p>

    <p>Blue-mold cheese with sharp, peppery flavor.</p>

    <p><b>Koppen, Cup, or Bauden</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; goat; made in a cup-shaped mold that gives both
    its shape and name. Small, three to four ounces; sharp;
    pungent; somewhat smoky. Imitated in U.S.A. in half-pound
    packages.</p>

    <p><b>Korestin</b><br >
     <i>Russia</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; mellow; cured in brine.</p>

    <p><b>Kosher</b></p>

    <p>This cheese appears in many countries under several names.
    Similar to Limburger, but eaten fresh. It is stamped genuine by
    Jewish authorities, for the use of religious persons.
    (<i>See</i> Gouda, Kosher.)</p>

    <p><b>Krauterk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Brazil</i></p>

    <p>Soft-paste herb cheese put up in a tube by German Brazilians
    near the Argentine border. A rich, full-flavored adaptation of
    Swiss Krauterk&auml;se even though it is processed.</p>

    <p><b>Kreuterk&auml;se, Herb Cheese</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Hard, grating cheese flavored with herbs; like Sapsago or
    Grunk&auml;se.</p>

    <p><b>Krutt, or Kirgischerk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Asian Steppes</i></p>

    <p>A cheese turned out en route by nomadic tribes in the
    Asiatic Steppes, from sour skim milk of goat, sheep, cow or
    camel. The salted and pressed curd is made into small balls and
    dried in the sun.</p>

    <p><b>K&uuml;hbacher</b><br >
     <i>Bavaria</i></p>

    <p>Soft, ripe, and chiefly interesting because of its name, Cow
    Creek, where it is made.</p>

    <p><b>Kuminost</b><br >
     <i>Norway</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; caraway-seeded.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 246 --><a id="Page_246"></a> <b>Kumminost</b><br >
     <i>Sweden</i></p>

    <p>This is Bondost with caraway added.</p>

    <p><b>Kummin Ost</b><br >
     <i>Wisconsin, U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Imitation of the Scandinavian, with small production in
    Wisconsin where so many Swedes and Norwegians make their home
    and their <i>ost</i>.</p>

    <p><b>K&uuml;mmel, Leyden, or Leidsche Kaas</b><br >
     <i>Holland</i></p>

    <p>Caraway-seeded and named.</p>

    <p><b>K&uuml;mmelk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Germany and U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; sharp with caraway. Milwaukee K&uuml;mmelk&auml;se
    has made a name for itself as a nibble most suitable with most
    drinks, from beer to imported k&uuml;mmel liqueur.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_L"></a><br >
     L</h3>

    <p><b>Labneh</b><br >
     <i>Syria</i></p>

    <p>Sour-milk.</p>

    <p><b>La Fonc&eacute;e, or Fromage de Pau</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Cream cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Lager K&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Semidry and mellow. While <i>lager</i> means merely "to
    store," there is more than a subtle suggestion of lager beer
    here.</p>

    <p><b>Laguiole, Fromage de, and Guiole</b><br >
     <i>Aveyron, France</i></p>

    <p>An ancient Cantal type said to have flourished since the
    Roman occupation. Many consider Laguiole superior to Cantal. It
    is in full season from November to May.</p>

    <p><b>Lamothe-Bougon, La Mothe St. Heray</b><br >
     <i>Poitou</i></p>

    <p>Goat cheese made from May to November.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 247 --><a id="Page_247"></a> <b>Lancashire, or Lancaster</b><br >
     <i>North England</i></p>

    <p>White; crumbly; sharp; a good Welsh Rabbit cheese if you can
    get it. It is more like Cheshire than Cheddar. This most
    popular variety in the north of England is turned out best at
    Fylde, near the Irish Sea. It is a curiosity in manufacture,
    for often the curds used are of different ages, and this is
    accountable for a loose, friable texture. Deep orange in
    color.</p>

    <p><b>Land-l-kas, or G&uuml;ssing</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>Skim-milker, similar to U.S. Brick. Square loaves, four to
    eight pounds.</p>

    <p><b>Langlois Blue</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A Colorado Blue with an excellent reputation, though it can
    hardly compete with Roquefort.</p>

    <p><b>Langres</b><br >
     <i>Haute-Marne, France</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; fermented whole milk; farm-made; full-flavored,
    high-smelling Limburger type, similar to Maroilles. Ancient of
    days, said to have been made since the time of the Merovingian
    kings. Cylindrical, five by eight inches, they weigh one and a
    half to two pounds. Consumed mostly at home.</p>

    <p><b>Lapland</b><br >
     <i>Lapland</i></p>

    <p>Reindeer milk. Resembles hard Swiss. Of unusual shape, both
    round and flat, so a cross-section looks like a dumbbell with
    angular ends.</p>

    <p><b>Laredo</b><br >
     <i>Mexico</i></p>

    <p>Soft; creamy; mellow, made and named after the North Mexico
    city.</p>

    <p><b>Larron</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A kind of Maroilles.</p>

    <p><b>Latticini</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Trade name for a soft, water-buffalo product as creamy as
    Camembert.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 248 --><a id="Page_248"></a> <b>Laumes, les</b><br >
     <i>Burgundy, France</i></p>

    <p>Made from November to July.</p>

    <p><b>Lauterbach</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Breakfast cheese</p>

    <p><b>Leaf</b> <i>see</i> Tschil.</p>

    <p><b>Leather, Leder, or Holstein Dairy</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>A skim-milker with five to ten percent buttermilk, all from
    the great <i>milch</i> cows up near Denmark in
    Schleswig-Holstein. A technical point in its making is that
    it's "broken up with a harp or a stirring stick and stirred
    with a Danish stirrer."</p>

    <p><b>Lebanie</b><br >
     <i>Syria</i></p>

    <p>Dessert cottage cheese often served with yogurt.</p>

    <p><b>Lecco, Formaggini di</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft; cow or goat; round dessert variety; representative of
    a cheese family as big as the human family of most
    Italians.</p>

    <p><b>Lees</b> <i>see</i> Appenzeller, Festive, No. II.</p>

    <p><b>LeGu&eacute;yin</b><br >
     <i>Lorraine, France</i></p>

    <p>Half-dried; small; salted; peppered and sharp. The salt
    <i>and</i> pepper make it unusual, though not as peppery as
    Italian Pepato.</p>

    <p><b>Leicester</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Hard; shallow; flat millstone of Cheddar-like cheese
    weighing forty pounds. Dark orange and mild to red and strong,
    according to age. With Wiltshire and Warwickshire it belongs to
    the Derbyshire type.</p>

    <p>An ancient saying is: "Leicester cheese and water cress were
    just made for each other."</p>

    <p><b>Leidsche Kaas</b> <i>see</i> Leyden.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 249 --><a id="Page_249"></a> <b>Leonessa</b></p>

    <p>A kind of Pecorino.</p>

    <p><b>Leroy</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Notable because it's a natural cheese in a mob of modern
    processed.</p>

    <p><b>Lerroux</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Goat; in season from February to September and not eaten in
    fall or winter months.</p>

    <p><b>Lescin</b><br >
     <i>Caucasus</i></p>

    <p>Curious because the sheep's milk that makes it is milked
    directly into a sack of skin. It is made in the usual way,
    rennet added, curd broken up, whey drained off, curd put into
    forms and pressed lightly. But after that it is wrapped in
    leaves and ropes of grass. After curing two weeks in the
    leaves, they are discarded, the cheese salted and wrapped up in
    leaves again for another ripening period.</p>

    <p>The use of a skin sack again points the association of
    cheese and wine in a region where wine is still drunk from skin
    bags with nozzles, as in many wild and mountainous parts.</p>

    <p><b>Les Petits Bressans</b><br >
     <i>Bresse, France</i></p>

    <p>Small goat cheeses named from food-famous Bresse, of the
    plump pullets, and often stimulated with brandy before being
    wrapped in fresh vine leaves, like Les Petits Banons.</p>

    <p><b>Les Petits Fromages</b> <i>see</i> Petits Fromages and
    Thiviers.</p>

    <p><b>Le Vacherin</b></p>

    <p>Name given to two entirely different varieties:<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Vacherin &agrave; la
    Main</span><br >
     II. Vacherin Fondu. (<i>See</i> Vacherin.)</p>

    <p><!-- Page 250 --><a id="Page_250"></a> <b>Levroux</b><br >
     <i>Berry, France</i></p>

    <p>A goat cheese in season from May to December.</p>

    <p><b>Leyden, Komijne Kaas, Caraway Cheese</b><br >
     <i>Holland</i></p>

    <p>Semihard, tangy with caraway. Similar Delft. There are two
    kinds of Leyden that might be called Farm Fat and Factory Thin,
    for those made on the farms contain 30 to 35% fat, against 20%
    in the factory product.</p>

    <p><b>Liederkranz</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter
    4</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Limburger</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter
    3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Lincoln</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Cream cheese that keeps two to three weeks. This is in
    England, where there is much less refrigeration than in the
    U.S.A., and that's a big break for most natural cheeses.</p>

    <p><b>Lindenhof</b><br >
     <i>Belgium</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; aromatic; sharp.</p>

    <p><b>Lipta, Liptauer, Liptoiu</b><br >
     <i>Hungary</i></p>

    <p>A classic mixture with condiments, especially the great
    peppers from which the world's best paprika is made. Liptauer
    is the regional name for Brinza, as well, and it's made in the
    same manner, of sheep milk and sometimes cow. Salty and
    spready, somewhat oily, as most sheep-milkers are. A fairly
    sharp taste with a suggestion of sour milk. It is sold in
    various containers and known as "pickled cheese." (<i>See</i>
    <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.)</p>

    <p><b>Lipto</b><br >
     <i>Hungary</i></p>

    <p>Soft; sheep; white; mild and milky taste. A close relative
    of both Liptauer and Brinza.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 251 --><a id="Page_251"></a> <b>Little Nippy</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Processed cheese with a cute name, wrapped up both plain and
    smoky, to "slice and serve for cheese trays, mash or whip for
    spreading," but no matter how you slice, mash and whip it, it's
    still processed.</p>

    <p><b>Livarot</b><br >
     <i>Calvados, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft paste, colored with annatto-brown or deep red (also,
    uncommonly, fresh and white). It has the advantage over
    Camembert, made in the same region, in that it may be
    manufactured during the summer months when skim milk is
    plentiful and cheap. It is formed in cylinders, six by two
    inches, and ripened several months in the even temperature of
    caves, to be eaten at its best only in January, February and
    March. By June and afterward it should be avoided. Similar to
    Mignot II. Early in the process of making, after ripening ten
    to twelve days, the cheeses are wrapped in fresh <i>laiche</i>
    leaves, both to give flavor and help hold in the ammonia and
    other essentials for making a strong, piquant Livarot.</p>

    <p><b>Livlander</b><br >
     <i>Russia</i></p>

    <p>A popular hand cheese. A most unusual variety because the
    cheese itself is red, not the rind.</p>

    <p><b>Locatelli</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>A brand of Pecorino differing slightly from Bomano
    Pecorino.</p>

    <p><b>Lodigiano, or Lombardo</b><br >
     <i>Lodi, Italy</i></p>

    <p>Sharp; fragrant; sometimes slightly bitter; yellow.
    Cylindrical; surface colored dark and oiled. Used for grating.
    Similar to Parmesan but not as fine in quality.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 252 --><a id="Page_252"></a> <b>Longhorn</b><br >
     <i>Wisconsin, U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>This fine American Cheddar was named from its resemblance to
    the long horn of a popular milking breed of cattle, or just
    from the Longhorn breed of cow that furnished the makings.</p>

    <p><b>Lorraine</b><br >
     <i>Lorraine, Germany</i></p>

    <p>Hard; small; delicate; unique because it's seasoned with
    pistachio nuts besides salt and pepper. Eaten while quite
    young, in two-ounce portions that bring a very high price.</p>

    <p><b>Lumburger</b><br >
     <i>Belgium</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft and tangy dessert cheese. The opposite of Limburger
    because it has no odor.</p>

    <p><b>Lunch</b><br >
     <i>Germany and U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>The same as Breakfast and Fr&uuml;hst&uuml;ck. A Limburger
    type of eye-opener.</p>

    <p><b>L&uuml;neberg</b><br >
     <i>West Austria</i></p>

    <p>Swiss type; saffron-colored; made in a copper kettle; not as
    strong as Limburger, or as mild as Emmentaler, yet piquant and
    aromatic, with a character of its own.</p>

    <p><b>Luxembourg</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Tiny tin-foiled type of Liederkranz. A mild, bland, would-be
    Camembert.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_M"></a><br >
     M</h3>

    <p><b>Maconnais</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; goat's milk; two inches square by one and a half
    inches thick.</p>

    <p><b>Macqueline</b><br >
     <i>Oise, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft Camembert type, made in the same region, but sold at a
    cheaper price.</p>

    <p><b>Madridejos</b><br >
     <i>Spain</i></p>

    <p>Named for Madrid where it is made.</p>

    <p><b>Magdeburger-kuhk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>"Cow cheese" made in Magdeburg.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 253 --><a id="Page_253"></a> <b>Magerk&auml;se</b> <i>see</i> Holstein
       Skim Milk</p>

    <p><b>Maggenga, Sorte</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>A term for Parmesan types made between April and
    September.</p>

    <p><b>Maguis</b><br >
     <i>Belgium</i></p>

    <p>Also called Fromage Mou. Soft; white; sharp; spread.</p>

    <p><b>Maigre</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A name for Brie made in summer and inferior to both the
    winter Gras and spring Migras.</p>

    <p><b>Maile</b><br >
     <i>Crimea</i></p>

    <p>Sheep; cooked; drained; salted; made into forms and put into
    a brine bath where it stays sometimes a year.</p>

    <p><b>Maile Pener (Fat Cheese)</b><br >
     <i>Crimea</i></p>

    <p>Sheep; crumbly; open texture and pleasing flavor when
    ripened.</p>

    <p><b>Mainauer</b><br >
     <i>German</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; full cream; round; red outside, yellow within.
    Weight three pounds.</p>

    <p><b>Mainzer Hand</b><br >
     <i>German</i></p>

    <p>Typical hand cheese, kneaded by hand thoroughly, which makes
    for quality, pressed into flat cakes by hand, dried for a week,
    packed in kegs or jars and ripened in the cellar six to eight
    weeks. As in making bread, the skill in kneading Mainzer makes
    a worthy craft.</p>

    <p><b>Majocchino</b><br >
     <i>Sicily, Italy</i></p>

    <p>An exceptional variety of the three usual milks mixed
    together: goat, sheep and cow, flavored with spices and olive
    oil. A kind of Incanestrato.</p>

    <p><b>Malakoff</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A form of Neufch&acirc;tel about a half inch by two inches,
    eaten fresh or ripe.</p>

    <p><b>Manicamp</b><br >
     <i>French Flanders</i></p>

    <p>In season from October to July.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 254 --><a id="Page_254"></a> <b>Mano, Queso de</b><br >
     <i>Venezuela</i></p>

    <p>A kind of Venezuelan hand cheese, as its Spanish name
    translates. (<i>See</i> Venezuelan.)</p>

    <p><b>Manor House</b> <i>see</i> Herrg&aring;rdsost.</p>

    <p><b>Manteca, Butter</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Cheese and butter combined in a small brick of butter with a
    covering of Mozzarella. This is for slicing&mdash;not for
    cooking&mdash;which is unusual for any Italian cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Manur, or Manuri</b><br >
     <i>Yugoslavia</i></p>

    <p>Sheep or cow's milk heated to boiling, then cooled "until
    the fingers can be held in it". A mixture of fresh whey and
    buttermilk is added with the rennet. "The curd is lifted from
    the whey in a cloth and allowed to drain, when it is kneaded
    like bread, lightly salted, and dried."</p>

    <p><b>Maque&eacute;</b><br >
     <i>Belgium</i></p>

    <p>Another name for Fromage Mou, Soft Cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Marches</b><br >
     <i>Tuscany, Italy</i></p>

    <p>Ewe's milk; hard.</p>

    <p><b>Margarine</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>An oily cheese made with oleomargarine.</p>

    <p><b>Margherita</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft; cream; small.</p>

    <p><b>Marienhofer</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>Limburger type. About 4&frac12; inches square and 1&frac12;
    inches thick; weight about a pound. Wrapped in tin foil.</p>

    <p><b>M&auml;rkisch, or M&auml;rkisch Hand</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Soft; smelly; hand type.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 255 --><a id="Page_255"></a> <b>Maroilles, Marolles, Marole</b><br >
     <i>Flanders, France</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft and semihard, half way between Pont l'Ev&ecirc;que
    and Limburger. Full flavor, high smell, reddish brown rind,
    yellow within. Five inches square and 2&frac14; inches thick;
    some larger.</p>

    <p><b>Martha Washington Aged Cheese</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Made by Kasper of Bear Creek, Wisconsin. (<i>See under</i>
    Wisconsin in <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.)</p>

    <p><b>Mascarpone, or Macherone</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft; white; delicate fresh cream from Lombardy. Usually
    packed in muslin or gauze bags, a quarter to a half pound.</p>

    <p><b>McIntosh</b><br >
     <i>Alaska</i></p>

    <p>An early Klondike Cheddar named by its maker, Peter
    McIntosh, and described as being as yellow as that "Alaskan
    gold, which brought at times about ounce for ounce over
    mining-camp counters." <i>The Cheddar Box</i> by Dean
    Collins.</p>

    <p><b>McLaren's</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Pioneer club type of snappy Cheddar in a pot, originally
    made in Canada, now by Kraft in the U.S A.</p>

    <p><b>Meadowbloom</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Made by the Iowa State College at Ames.</p>

    <p><b>Mecklenburg Skim</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>No more distinguished than most skim-milkers.</p>

    <p><b>Meilbou</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Made in the Champagne district.</p>

    <p><b>Mein K&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Sharp; aromatic; trade-marked package.</p>

    <p><b>Melfa</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Excellent for a processed cheese. White; flavorsome. Packed
    in half moons.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 256 --><a id="Page_256"></a> <b>Melun</b><br >
     <i>France</i> Brown-red rind, yellow inside; high-smelling.
    There is also a Brie de Melun.</p>

    <p><b>Mentelto</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Sharp; goat; from the Mentelto mountains</p>

    <p><b>Merignac</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Goat.</p>

    <p><b>Merovingian</b><br >
     <i>Northeast France</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; white; creamy; sharp; historic since the time of
    the Merovingian kings.</p>

    <p><b>Mersem</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Lightly cooked.</p>

    <p><b>Mesitra</b><br >
     <i>Crimea</i></p>

    <p>Eaten when fresh and unsalted; also when ripened. Soft,
    ewe's milk.</p>

    <p><b>Mesost</b><br >
     <i>Sweden</i></p>

    <p>Whey; sweetish.</p>

    <p><b>Metton</b><br >
     <i>Franche-Comt&eacute;, France</i></p>

    <p>Season October to June.</p>

    <p><b>Meuse</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; piquant; aromatic.</p>

    <p><b>Midget Salami Provolone</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>This goes Baby Goudas and Edams one better by being a sort
    of sausage, too.</p>

    <p><b>Mignot</b><br >
     <i>Calvados, France</i></p>

    <p><i>White, No. I:</i> Soft; fresh; in small cubes or
    cylinders; in season only in summer, April to September.</p>

    <p><i>Passe, No. II:</i> Soft but ripened, and in the same
    forms, but only seasonal in winter, October to March. Similar
    to Pont l'Ev&ecirc;que and popular for more than a century. It
    goes specially well with Calvados cider, fresh, hard or
    distilled.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 257 --><a id="Page_257"></a> <b>Migras</b></p>

    <p>Name given to spring Brie&mdash;midway between fat winter
    Gras and thin summer Maigre.</p>

    <p><b>Milano, Stracchino di Milano, Fresco, Quardo</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Bel Paese. Yellow, with thin rind. 1&frac12; to
    2&frac34; inches thick, 3 to 6&frac12; pounds.</p>

    <p><b>Milk Mud</b> <i>see</i> Schlickermilch.</p>

    <p><b>Millefiori</b><br >
     <i>Milan, Italy</i></p>

    <p>A Thousand Flowers&mdash;as highly scented as its
    sentimental name. Yet no cheeses are so freshly fragrant as
    these flowery Alpine ones.</p>

    <p><b>Milltown Bar</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Robust texture and flavor reminiscent of free-lunch and
    old-time bars.</p>

    <p><b>Milk cheeses</b></p>

    <p>Milks that make cheese around the world:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>Ass Buffalo Camel Chamois Elephant Goat Human
        (<i>see</i> Mother's milk) Llama Mare Reindeer Sea cow
        (Amazonian legend) Sheep Whale (legendary; see Whale
        Cheese) Yak Zebra Zebu</p>
    </div>

    <p>U.S. pure food laws prohibit cheeses made of unusual or
    strange animal's milk, such as camel, llama and zebra.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 258 --><a id="Page_258"></a> <b>Milwaukee K&uuml;mmelk&auml;se<br >
     and Hand K&auml;se</b> <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Aromatic with caraway, brought from Germany by early
    emigrants and successfully imitated.</p>

    <p><b>Minas</b><br >
     <i>Brazil</i></p>

    <p>Name for the Brazilian state of Minas Geraes, where it is
    made. Semihard; white; round two-pounder; often chalky. The two
    best brands are one called Primavera, Spring, and another put
    out by the Swiss professors who teach the art at the
    Agricultural University in the State Capital, Bello
    Horizonte.</p>

    <p><b>Minnesota Blue</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A good national product known from coast to coast. Besides
    Blue, Minnesota makes good all-American Brick and Cheddar,
    natural nationals to be proud of.</p>

    <p><b>Mintzitra</b><br >
     <i>in Macedonia; and</i><br >
     <b>Mitzithra</b><br >
     <i>in Greece</i></p>

    <p>Sheep; soft; succulent; and as pleasantly greasy as other
    sheep cheeses from Greece. It's a by-product of the fabulous
    Feta.</p>

    <p><b>Modena, Monte</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Made in U.S.A. during World War II. Parmesan-type.</p>

    <p><b>Mohawk Limburger Spread</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A brand that comes in one-pound jars.</p>

    <p><b>Moliterno</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Caciocavallo. <i>(See.)</i></p>

    <p><b>Monceau</b><br >
     <i>Champagne, France</i></p>

    <p>Semihard, similar to Maroilles.</p>

    <p><b>Moncenisio</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Gorgonzola.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 259 --><a id="Page_259"></a> <b>Mondseer, Mondseer Schachtelk&auml;se,
       Mondseer Schlossk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>This little family with a lot of long names is closely
    related to the M&uuml;nster tribe, with very distant
    connections with the mildest branch of the Limburgers.</p>

    <p>The Schachtelk&auml;se is named from the wooden boxes in
    which it is shipped, while the Schlossk&auml;se shows its class
    by being called Castle Cheese, probably because it is richer
    than the others, being made of whole milk.</p>

    <p><b>Money made of cheese</b><br >
     <i>China</i></p>

    <p>In the Chase National Bank collection of moneys of the world
    there is a specimen of "Cheese money" about which the curator,
    Farran Zerbee, writes: "A specimen of the so-called 'cheese
    money' of Northern China, 1850-70, now in the Chase Bank
    collection, came to me personally some thirty years ago from a
    woman missionary, who had been located in the field where she
    said a cake form of condensed milk, and referred to as
    'cheese,' was a medium of exchange among the natives. It, like
    other commodities, particularly compressed tea, was prized as a
    trading medium in China, in that it had value as nutriment and
    was sufficiently appreciated by the population as to be
    exchangeable for other articles of service."</p>

    <p><b>Monk's Head</b> <i>see</i> T&ecirc;te de Moine.</p>

    <p><b>Monostorer</b><br >
     <i>Transylvania, Rumania</i></p>

    <p>Ewe's milk.</p>

    <p><b>Monsieur</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; salted; rich in flavor.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 260 --><a id="Page_260"></a> <b>Monsieur Fromage</b> <i>see</i>
       Fromage de Monsieur Fromage.</p>

    <p><b>Montana</b><br >
     <i>Catalonia</i></p>

    <p>A mountain cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Montasio</b><br >
     <i>Austria and Italy</i></p>

    <p>Usually skimmed goat and cow milk mixed. When finished, the
    rind is often rubbed with olive oil or blackened with soot. It
    is eaten both fresh, white and sweet, and aged, when it is
    yellow, granular and sharp, with a characteristic flavor.
    Mostly used when three to twelve months old, but kept much
    longer and grated for seasoning. Widely imitated in
    America.</p>

    <p><b>Montauban de Bretagne, Fromage de</b><br >
     <i>Brittany, France</i></p>

    <p>A celebrated cheese of Brittany.</p>

    <p><b>Montavoner</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>Sour and sometimes sweet milk, made tasty with dried herbs
    of the <i>Achittea</i> family.</p>

    <p><b>Mont Blanc</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>An Alpine cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Mont Cenis</b><br >
     <i>Southeastern France</i> Usually made of all three available
    milks, cow, goat and sheep; it is semi-hard and blue-veined
    like the other Roquefort imitations, Gex and Septmoncel.
    Primitive methods are still used in the making and sometimes
    the ripening is done by <i>penicillium</i> introduced in moldy
    bread. Large rounds, eighteen by six to eight inches, weighing
    twenty-five pounds.</p>

    <p><b>Mont-des-Cats</b><br >
     <i>French Flanders</i></p>

    <p>Trappist monk-made Port-Salut.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 261 --><a id="Page_261"></a> <b>Montdidier</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A fresh cream.</p>

    <p><b>Mont d'or, le, or Mont Dore</b><br >
     <i>Lyonnais, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; whole milk; originally goat, now cow; made throughout
    the Rhone Valley. Fat, golden-yellow and "relished by
    financiers" according to Victor Meusy. Between Brie and Pont
    l'Ev&ecirc;que but more delicate than either, though not
    effeminate. Alpin and Riola are similar. The best is still
    turned out at Mont d'Or, with runners-up in St. Cyr and St.
    Didier.</p>

    <p><b>Montavoner</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>A sour-milker made fragrant with herbs added to the
    curd.</p>

    <p><b>Monterey</b><br >
     <i>Mexico</i></p>

    <p>Hard; sharp; perhaps inspired by Montery Jack that's made in
    California and along the Mexican border.</p>

    <p><b>Monterey Jack</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter
    4</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Month&eacute;ry</b><br >
     <i>Seine-et-Oise, France</i></p>

    <p>Whole or partly skimmed milk; soft in quality and large in
    size, weighing up to 5&frac12; pounds. Notable only for its
    patriotic tri-color in ripening, with whitish mold that turns
    blue and has red spots.</p>

    <p><b>Montpellier</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Sheep.</p>

    <p><b>Moravian</b><br >
     <i>Czechoslovakia</i></p>

    <p>Semihard and sharp.</p>

    <p><b>Morbier</b><br >
     <i>Bresse, France</i></p>

    <p>In season from November to July.</p>

    <p><b>Mostoffait</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A little-known product of Champagne.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 262 --><a id="Page_262"></a> <b>Mother's milk</b></p>

    <p>In his book about French varieties, <i>Les Fromages</i>,
    Maurice des Ombiaux sums up the many exotic milks made into
    cheese and recounts the story of Paul Bert, who served a cheese
    "white as snow" that was so delicately appetizing it was
    partaken of in "religious silence." All the guests guessed, but
    none was right. So the host announced it was made of <i>"lait
    de femme"</i> and an astounded turophile exclaimed, "Then all
    of us are cannibals."</p>

    <p><b>Mountain</b><br >
     <i>Bavaria</i></p>

    <p>Soft; yellow; sharp.</p>

    <p><b>Mountain, Azuldoch</b> <i>see</i> Azuldoch.</p>

    <p><b>Mount Hope</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Yellow; mellow; mild and porous California Cheddar.</p>

    <p><b>Mouse or Mouse Trap</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Common name for young, green, cracked, leathery or rubbery
    low-grade store cheese fit only to bait traps. When it's aged
    and sharp, however, the same cheese can be bait for
    caseophiles.</p>

    <p><b>Mozzarella</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft; water-buffalo milk; moistly fresh and unripened;
    bland, white cooking cheese put up in balls or big bowl-like
    cups weighing about a half pound and protected with wax paper.
    The genuine is made at Cardito, Aversa, Salernitano and in the
    Mazzoni di Capua. Like Ricotta, this is such a popular cheese
    all over America that it is imitated widely, and often badly,
    with a bitter taste.</p>

    <p><b>Mozzarella-Affumicata, also called Scamozza</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; smooth; white; bland; un-salted. Put up in pear
    shapes of about one pound, with tan rind, from smoking.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 263 --><a id="Page_263"></a> Eaten chiefly sliced, but prized, both
       fresh and smoked, in true Italian one-dish meals such as
       Lasagne and Pizza.</p>

    <p><b>Mozzarinelli</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>A pet name for a diminutive edition of Mozzarella.</p>

    <p><b>Mrsav</b> <i>see</i> Sir Posny.</p>

    <p><b>M&uuml;nster</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>German originally, now made from Colmar, Strassburg and
    Copenhagen to Milwaukee in all sorts of imitations, both good
    and bad. Semihard; whole milk; yellow inside, brick-red
    outside; flavor from mild to strong, depending on age and
    amount of caraway or anise seed added. Best in winter season,
    from November to April.</p>

    <p>M&uuml;nster is a world-wide classic that doubles for both
    German and French. G&eacute;rom&eacute; is a standard French
    type of it, with a little longer season, beginning in April,
    and a somewhat different flavor from anise seed. Often, instead
    of putting the seeds inside, a dish of caraway is served with
    the cheese for those who like to flavor to taste.</p>

    <p>In Alsace, M&uuml;nster is made plain and also under the
    name of M&uuml;nster au Cumin because of the caraway.</p>

    <p>American imitations are much milder and marketed much
    younger. They are supposed to blend the taste of Brick and
    Limburger; maybe they do.</p>

    <p><b>Mustard</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A processed domestic, Gruy&egrave;re type.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 264 --><a id="Page_264"></a> <b>Myjithra</b></p>

    <p>Imitated with goat's milk in Southern Colorado.</p>

    <p><b>Mysost, Mytost</b><br >
     <i>Scandinavia</i></p>

    <p>Made in all Scandinavian countries and imitated in the
    U.S.A. A whey cheese, buttery, mild and sweetish with a caramel
    color all through, instead of the heavy chocolate or dark
    tobacco shade of Gjetost. Frimost is a local name for it. The
    American imitations are cylindrical and wrapped in tin
    foil.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_N"></a><br >
     N</h3>

    <p><b>Nagelkassa (Fresh), Fresh Clove Cheese, called Nageles in
    Holland</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>Skim milk; curd mixed with caraway and cloves called nails,
    <i>nagel</i>, in Germany and Austria. The large flat rounds
    resemble English Derby.</p>

    <p><b>Nantais, or Fromage du Cur&eacute;, Cheese of the
    Curate</b><br >
     <i>Brittany, France</i></p>

    <p>A special variety dedicated to some curate of Nantes.</p>

    <p><b>Nessel</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Soft; whole milk; round and very thin.</p>

    <p><b>Neufch&acirc;tel, or Petit Suisse</b><br >
     <i>Normandy, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; whole milk; small loaf. See Ancien Imp&eacute;rial,
    Bondon, and <a href="#Page_129">Chapter 9</a>.</p>

    <p><b>New Forest</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Cream cheese from the New Forest district.</p>

    <p><b>Nieheimer</b><br >
     <i>Westphalia, Germany</i></p>

    <p>Sour milk; with salt and caraway seed added, sometimes beer
    or milk. Covered lightly with straw and packed in kegs with
    hops to ripen. Both beer and hops in one cheese is unique.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 265 --><a id="Page_265"></a> <b>Niolo</b><br >
     <i>Corsica</i></p>

    <p>In season from October to May.</p>

    <p><b>Noekkelost or N&ouml;gelost</b><br >
     <i>Norway</i></p>

    <p>Similar to spiced Leyden or Edam with caraway, and shaped
    like a Gouda.</p>

    <p><b>Nordlands-Ost "Kalas"</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Trade name for an American imitation of a Scandinavian
    variety, perhaps suggested by Swedish Nordost.</p>

    <p><b>Nordost</b><br >
     <i>Sweden</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; white; baked; salty and smoky.</p>

    <p><b>North Wilts</b><br >
     <i>Wiltshire, England</i></p>

    <p>Cheddar type; smooth; hard rind; rich but delicate in
    flavor. Small size, ten to twelve pounds; named for its
    locale.</p>

    <p><b>Nostrale</b><br >
     <i>Northwest Italy</i></p>

    <p>An ancient-of-days variety of which there are two
    kinds:<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. <i>Formaggio Duro:</i>
    hard, as its name says, made in the spring</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">when the cows are in the
    valley.</span><br >
     II. <i>Formaggio Tenero:</i> soft and richer, summer-made with
    milk<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">from lush
    mountain-grazing.</span></p>

    <p><b>Notruschki (cheese bread)</b><br >
     <i>Russia</i></p>

    <p>Made with Tworog cheese and widely popular.</p>

    <p><b>Nova Scotia Smoked</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>The name must mean that the cheese was smoked in the Nova
    Scotia manner, for it is smoked mostly in New York City, like
    sturgeon, to give the luxurious flavor.</p>

    <p><b>Nuworld</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>This semisoft newcomer arrived about 1954 and is advertised
    as a brand-new variety. It is made in the Midwest and packed in
    small, heavily waxed portions
    <!-- Page 266 --><a id="Page_266"></a> to preserve all of its fine, full aroma
       and flavor.</p>

    <p>A cheese all America can be proud of, whether it is an
    entirely new species or not.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_O"></a><br >
     O</h3>

    <p><b>Oaxaca</b> <i>see</i> Asadero.</p>

    <p><b>Oka, or La Trappe</b><br >
     <i>Canada</i></p>

    <p>Medium soft; aromatic; the Port-Salut made by Trappist monks
    in Canada after the secret method of the order that originated
    in France. <i>See</i> Trappe.</p>

    <p><b>Old English Club</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Not old, not English, and representing no club we know
    of.</p>

    <p><b>Old Heidelberg</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Soft, piquant rival of Liederkranz.</p>

    <p><b>Ol&eacute;ron Isle, Fromage d'Ile</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A celebrated sheep cheese from this island of
    Ol&eacute;ron.</p>

    <p><b>Olive Cream</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Ground olives mixed to taste with cream cheese. Olives rival
    pimientos for such mildly piquant blends that just suit the
    bland American taste. A more exciting olive cream may be made
    with Greek Calatma olives and Feta sheep cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Olivet</b><br >
     <i>Orl&eacute;ans, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft sheep cheese sold in three forms:<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">I. Fresh; summer, white; cream
    cheese.</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">II. Olivet-Bleu&mdash;mold
    inoculated; half-ripened.</span><br >
     III. Olivet-Cendr&eacute;, ripened in the ashes. Season,
    October to June.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 267 --><a id="Page_267"></a> <b>Olm&uuml;tzer Quargel, also
       Olm&uuml;tzer Bierk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>Soft; skim milk-soured; salty. The smallest of hand cheeses,
    only &frac12; of an inch thick by 1&frac12; inches in diameter.
    Packed in kegs to ripen into beer cheese and keep the liquid
    contents of other kegs company. A dozen of these little ones
    are packed together in a box ready to drop into wine or beer
    drinks at home or at the bar.</p>

    <p><b>Oloron, or Fromage de la Vallee d'ossour</b><br >
     <i>B&eacute;arn, France</i></p>

    <p>In season from October to May.</p>

    <p><b>Onion with garlic links</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A</i></p>

    <p>Processed and put up like frankfurters, in links.</p>

    <p><b>Oporto</b><br >
     <i>Portugal</i></p>

    <p>Hard; sharp; tangy. From the home town of port wine.</p>

    <p><b>Orkney</b><br >
     <i>Scotland</i></p>

    <p>A country cheese of the Orkney Islands where it is buried in
    the oat bin to ripen, and kept there between meals as well.
    Oatmeal and Scotch country cheese are natural affinities.
    Southey, Johnson and Boswell have all remarked the fine savor
    of such cheese with oatcakes.</p>

    <p><b>Orl&eacute;ans</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Named after the Orl&eacute;ans district Soft; creamy;
    tangy.</p>

    <p><b>Ossetin, Tuschninsk, or Kasach</b><br >
     <i>Caucasus</i></p>

    <p>Comes in two forms:<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Soft and mild sheep or
    cow cheese ripened in brine for two months.</span><br >
     II. Hard, after ripening a year and more in brine. The type
    made of<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">sheep milk is the
    better.</span></p>

    <p><b>Ostiepek, Oschtjepek, Oschtjpeka</b><br >
     <i>Czechoslovakia</i></p>

    <p>Sheep in the Carpathian Mountains supply the herb-rich milk
    for this type, similar to Italian Caciocavallo.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 268 --><a id="Page_268"></a> <b>Oswego</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>New York State Cheddar of distinction.</p>

    <p><b>Oude Kaas</b><br >
     <i>Belgium</i></p>

    <p>Popular in France as Boule de Lille.</p>

    <p><b>Oust, Fromage de</b><br >
     <i>Roussillon, France</i></p>

    <p>Of the Camembert family.</p>

    <p><b>Ov&aacute;r</b><br >
     <i>Hungarian</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft to semihard, reddish-brown rind, reddish-yellow
    inside. Mild but pleasantly piquant It has been called
    Hungarian Tilsit.</p>

    <p><b>Oveji Sir</b><br >
     <i>Yugoslavian Alpine</i></p>

    <p>Hard, mountain-sheep cheese of quality Cellar-ripened three
    months. Weight six to ten pounds.</p>

    <p><b>Oxfordshire</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>An obsolescent type, now only of literary interest because
    of Jonathan Swift's little story around it, in the eighteenth
    century:</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p>"An odd land of fellow, who when the cheese came upon
        the table, pretended to faint; so somebody said, Pray take
        away the cheese.'</p>

        <p>"'No,' said I, 'pray take away the fool. Said I
        well?'</p>

        <p>"To this Colonel Arwit rejoins: 'Faith, my lord, you
        served the coxcomb right enough; and therefore I wish we
        had a bit of your lordship's Oxfordshire cheese.'"</p>
    </div>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_P"></a><br >
     P</h3>

    <p><b>Pabstett</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A</i></p>

    <p>The Pabst beer people got this out during Prohibition, and
    although beer and cheese are brothers under their ferment, and
    Prohibition has long since been
    <!-- Page 269 --><a id="Page_269"></a> done away with, the relation of the
       processed paste to a natural cheese is still as distant as
       near beer from regular beer.</p>

    <p><b>Packet cheese</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>This corresponds to our process cheese and is named from the
    package or packet it comes in.</p>

    <p><b>Paglia</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Italian-influenced Canton of Ticino. Soft. A copy of
    Gorgonzola. A Blue with a pleasant, aromatic flavor, and of
    further interest because in Switzerland, the motherland of
    cheese, it is an imitation of a foreign type.</p>

    <p><b>Pago</b><br >
     <i>Dalmatia, Yugoslavia</i></p>

    <p>A sheep-milk specialty made on the island of Pago in
    Dalmatia, in weights from &frac12; to eight pounds.</p>

    <p><b>Paladru</b><br >
     <i>Savoy, France</i></p>

    <p>In season from November to May.</p>

    <p><b>Palpuszta</b><br >
     <i>Hungary</i></p>

    <p>Fairly strong Limburger type.</p>

    <p><b>Pannarone</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Gorgonzola type with white curd but without blue
    veining.</p>

    <p><b>Parenica</b><br >
     <i>Hungary</i></p>

    <p>Sheep. Caciocavallo type.</p>

    <p><b>Parmesan, Parmigiano</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>The grand mogul of all graters. Called "The hardest cheese
    in the world." It enlivens every course from onion soup to
    cheese straws with the demitasse, and puts spirit into the
    sparse Lenten menu as <i>Pasta al Pesto</i>, powdered Parmesan,
    garlic, olive oil and basil, pounded in a mortar with a
    pestle.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 270 --><a id="Page_270"></a> <b>Passauer Rahmk&auml;se, Cr&egrave;me
       de Passau</b><br >
     <i>German</i></p>

    <p>Noted Bavarian cream cheese, known in France as Cr&egrave;me
    de Passau.</p>

    <p><b>Pasta Cotta</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>The ball or <i>grana</i> of curd used in making
    Parmesan.</p>

    <p><b>Pasta Filata</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>A "drawn" curd, the opposite of the little balls or grains
    into which Grana is chopped.(<i>See</i> Formaggi di Pasta
    Filata.)</p>

    <p><b>Pasteurized Process Cheese Food</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>This is the ultimate desecration of natural fermented
    cheese. Had Pasteur but known what eventual harm his discovery
    would do to a world of cheese, he might have stayed his
    hand.</p>

    <p><b>Pastorella</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft, rich table cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Patagras</b><br >
     <i>Cuba</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Gouda.</p>

    <p><b>Pecorino</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Italian cheese made from ewe's milk. Salted in brine.
    Granular.</p>

    <p><b>Pelardon de Rioms</b><br >
     <i>Languedoc, France</i></p>

    <p>A goat cheese in season from May to November.</p>

    <p><b>Peneteleu</b><br >
     <i>Rumania</i></p>

    <p>One of the international Caciocavallo family.</p>

    <p><b>Penicillium Glaucum and Penicillium Album</b></p>

    <p>Tiny mushroom spores of <i>Penicillium Glaucum</i> sprinkled
    in the curd destined to become Roquefort, sprout and grow into
    "blue" veins that impart the characteristic flavor. In twelve
    to fifteen days a second spore develops on the surface,
    snow-white <i>Penicillium Album</i>.</p>

    <p><b>Pennich</b><br >
     <i>Turkey</i></p>

    <p>Mellow sheep cheese packed in the skin of sheep or lamb.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 271 --><a id="Page_271"></a> <b>Pennsylvania Hand Cheese</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>This German original has been made by the Pennsylvania Dutch
    ever since they arrived from the old country. Also Pennsylvania
    pot, or cooked.</p>

    <p><b>Penroque</b><br >
     <i>Pennsylvania, U.S.A</i></p>

    <p>Cow milk imitation Roquefort, inoculated with <i>Penicillium
    Roqueforti</i> and ripened in "caverns where nature has
    duplicated the ideal condition of the cheese-curing caverns of
    France." So any failure of Penroque to rival real Roquefort is
    more likely to be the fault of mother cow than mother
    nature.</p>

    <p><b>Pepato</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Hard; stinging, with whole black peppers that make the lips
    burn. Fine for fire-eaters.</p>

    <p>An American imitation is made in Northern Michigan.</p>

    <p><b>Persill&eacute; de Savoie</b><br >
     <i>Savoie, France</i></p>

    <p>In season from May to January, flavored with parsley in a
    manner similar to that of sage in Vermont Cheddar.</p>

    <p><b>Petafina, La</b><br >
     <i>Dauphin&eacute;, France</i></p>

    <p>Goat or cow milk mixed together, with yeast of dried cheese
    added, plus salt and pepper, olive oil, brandy and
    absinthe.</p>

    <p><b>Petit Carr&eacute;</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Fresh, unripened Ancien Imp&eacute;rial.</p>

    <p><b>Petit Gruy&egrave;re</b><br >
     <i>Denmark</i></p>

    <p>Imitation Gruy&egrave;re, pasteurized, processed and made
    almost unrecognizable and inedible. Six tin-foil wedges to a
    box; also packaged with a couple of crackers for bars, one
    wedge for fifteen cents, where free lunch is forbidden. This is
    a fair sample of one of several foreign imitations that are
    actually worse than we can do at home.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 272 --><a id="Page_272"></a> <b>Petit Moule</b><br >
     <i>Ile-de-France, France</i></p>

    <p>A pet name for Coulommiers.</p>

    <p><b>Petit Suisse</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Fresh, unsalted cream cheese. The same as Neufch&acirc;tel
    and similar to Coulommiers. It comes in two sizes:<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gros&mdash;a largest
    cylinder</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Demi&mdash;a small
    one</span></p>

    <p>Keats called this "the creamy curd," and another writer has
    praised its "La Fontaine-like simplicity." Whether made in
    Normandy, Switzerland, or Petropolis, Brazil, by early Swiss
    settlers, it is ideal with honey.</p>

    <p><b>Petit Vacher</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>"Little Cowboy," an appropriate name for a small cow's-milk
    cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Petits Bourgognes</b><br >
     <i>Lower Burgundy, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; sheep; white, small, tangy. Other notable Petits also
    beginning with B are Banons and Bressans.</p>

    <p><b>Petits Fromages de Chasteaux, les</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Small, sheep cream cheeses from Lower Limousin.</p>

    <p><b>Petits Fromages de Ch&egrave;vre</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Little cheeses from little goats grazing on the little
    mountains of Provence.</p>

    <p><b>Petits Pots de Caill&eacute; de Poitiers</b><br >
     <i>Poitou, France</i></p>

    <p>Clotted milk in small pots.</p>

    <p><b>Pfister</b><br >
     <i>Cham, Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Emmentaler type, although differing in its method of making
    with fresh skim milk. It is named for Pfister Huber who was the
    first to manufacture it, in Chain.</p>

    <p><b>Philadelphia Cream</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>An excellent cream cheese that has been standard for seventy
    years. Made in New York State in spite of its name.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 273 --><a id="Page_273"></a> <b>Picnic</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Handy-size picnic packing of mild American Cheddar. Swiss
    has long been called picnic cheese in America, its home away
    from home.</p>

    <p><b>Picodon de Dieule Fit</b><br >
     <i>Dauphin&eacute;, France</i></p>

    <p>In season from May to December.</p>

    <p><b>Pie, Fromage &agrave; la</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Another name for Fromage Blanc or Farm; soft, creamy
    cottage-cheese type.</p>

    <p><b>Pie Cheese</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A</i></p>

    <p>An apt American name for any round store cheese that can be
    cut in wedges like a pie. Perfect with apple or mince or any
    other pie. And by the way, in these days when natural cheese is
    getting harder to find, any piece of American Cheddar cut in
    pie wedges before being wrapped in cellophane is apt to be the
    real thing&mdash;if it has the rind on. The wedge shape is
    used, however, <i>without any rind</i>, to make processed
    pastes pass for "natural" even without that identifying word,
    and with misleading labels such as old, sharp Cheddar and "aged
    nine months." That's long enough to make a baby, but not a
    "natural" out of a processed "Cheddar."</p>

    <p><b>Pimiento</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Because pimiento is the blandest of peppers, it just suits
    our bland national taste, especially when mixed with
    Neufch&acirc;tel, cream, club or cottage. The best is homemade,
    of course, with honest, snappy old Cheddar mashed and mixed to
    taste, with the mild Spanish pepper that equals the Spanish
    olive as a partner in such spreads.</p>

    <p><b>Pimp</b> <i>see</i> Mainzer Hand Cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Pineapple</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter
    4</a>.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 274 --><a id="Page_274"></a> <b>Piora</b><br >
     <i>Tessin, Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Hard cheese with small eyes. Whole milk, either cow's or a mixture of goat's and
    cow's.</p>

    <p><b>Pippen</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Borden brand of Cheddar. Also Pippen Roll.</p>

    <p><b>Pithiviers au Foin</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Orl&eacute;ans variety ripened on hay from October to
    May.</p>

    <p><b>Poitiers</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Goat's milker named from its Poitou district.</p>

    <p><b>Pommel</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>All year. Double cream; unsalted.</p>

    <p><b>Ponta Delgada</b><br >
     <i>Azores</i></p>

    <p>Semifirm; delicate; piquant</p>

    <p><b>Pontgibaud</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Roquefort Ripened at a very low temperature.</p>

    <p><b>Pont l'Ev&ecirc;que</b></p>

    <p>Characterized as a classic French <i>fromage</i> "with
    Huge-like Romanticism." (<i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter
    3</a>.) An imported brand is called "The Inquisitive Cow."</p>

    <p><b>Poona</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; mellow; New York Stater of distinctive flavor.
    Sold in two-pound packs, to be kept four or five hours at room
    temperature before serving.</p>

    <p><b>Port-Salut, Port du Salut</b> <i>see</i>
    <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Port, Blue Links</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>"Blue" flavored with red port and put up in pseudo-sausage
    links.</p>

    <p><b>Pot cheese</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Cottage cheese with a dry curd, not creamed. An old English
    favorite for fruited cheese cakes with perfumed plums, lemons,
    almonds and macaroons. <!-- Page 275 --><a id="Page_275"></a> In Ireland it was used in connection with
       the sheep-shearing ceremonies, although itself a common cow
       curd. Pennsylvania pot cheese is cooked.</p>

    <p><b>Potato</b><br >
     <i>Germany and U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Made in Thuringia from sour cow milk with sheep or goat
    sometimes added. "The potatoes are boiled and grated or mashed.
    One part of the potato is thoroughly mixed or kneaded with two
    or three parts of die curd. In the better cheese three parts of
    potatoes are mixed with two of curd. During the mixing, salt
    and sometimes caraway seed are added. The cheese is allowed to
    stand for from two to four days while a fermentation takes
    place. After this the curd is sometimes covered with beer or
    cream and is finally placed in tubs and allowed to ripen for
    fourteen days. A variety of this cheese is made in the U.S. It
    is probable, however, that it is not allowed to ripen for quite
    so long a period as the potato cheese of Europe. In all other
    essentials it appears to be the same." From U.S. Department of
    Agriculture <i>Bulletin</i> No. 608.</p>

    <p><b>Potato Pepper</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Italian Potato cheese is enlivened with black pepper, like
    Pepato, only not so stony hard.</p>

    <p><b>Pots de Cr&egrave;me St. Gervais</b><br >
     <i>St. Gervais-sur-mer, France</i></p>

    <p>The celebrated cream that rivals English Devonshire and is
    eaten both as a sweet and as a fresh cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Pouligny-St. Pierre</b><br >
     <i>Touraine, France</i></p>

    <p>A celebrated cylindrical cheese made in Indre. Season from
    May to December.</p>

    <p><b>Poustagnax, le</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A fresh cow-milk cheese of Gascony.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 276 --><a id="Page_276"></a> <b>Prato</b><br >
     <i>Brazil</i></p>

    <p>Semihard, very yellow imitation of the Argentine imitation
    of Holland Dutch. Standard Brazilian dessert with guava or
    quince paste. Named not from "dish" but the River Plate
    district of the Argentine from whence it was borrowed long
    ago.</p>

    <p><b>Prattigau</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Aromatic and sharp, Limburger type, from skim milk. Named
    for its home valley.</p>

    <p><b>Prestost or Saaland Flarr</b><br >
     <i>Sweden</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Gouda, but unique&mdash;the curd being mixed with
    whiskey, packed in a basket, salted and cellared, wrapped in a
    cloth changed daily; and on the third day finally washed with
    whiskey.</p>

    <p><b>Primavera, Spring</b><br >
     <i>Minas Geraes, Brazil</i></p>

    <p>Semihard white brand of Minas cheese high quality, with a
    springlike fragrance.</p>

    <p><b>Primost</b><br >
     <i>Norway</i></p>

    <p>Soft; whey; unripened; light brown; mild flavor.</p>

    <p><b>Primula</b><br >
     <i>Norway</i></p>

    <p>A blend of French Brie and Petit Gruy&egrave;re, mild table
    cheese imitate in Norway, sold in small packages. Danish
    Appetitost is similar, but with caraway added.</p>

    <p><b>Processed</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>From here around the world. Natural cheese melted and
    modified by emulsification with a harmless agent and thus
    changed into a plastic mass.</p>

    <p><b>Promessi</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Small soft-cream cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Provatura</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>A water-buffalo variety. This type of milk makes a good
    beginning for a fine cheese, no matter how it is made.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 277 --><a id="Page_277"></a> <b>Providence</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Port-Salut from the Trappist monastery at Briquebec.</p>

    <p><b>Provole, Provolone, Provolocine, Provoloncinni,
    Provoletti, and Provolino</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>All are types, shapes and sizes of Italy's most widely known
    and appreciated cheese. It is almost as widely but badly
    imitated in the U.S.A., where the final "e" and "i" are
    interchangeable.</p>

    <p>Cured in string nets that stay on permanently to hang
    decoratively in the home kitchen or dining room. Like straw
    Chianti bottles, Provolones weigh from <i>bocconi</i>
    (mouthful), about one pound, to two to four pounds. There are
    three-to five-pound Provoletti, and upward with huge Salamis
    and Giants. Small ones come ball, pear, apple, and all sorts of
    decorative shapes, big ones become monumental sculptures that
    are works of art to compare with butter and soap modeling.</p>

    <p><b>P'teux, le, or Fromage Cuit</b><br >
     <i>Lorraine, France</i></p>

    <p>Cooked cheese worked with white wine instead of milk, and
    potted.</p>

    <p><b>Puant Macere</b><br >
     <i>Flanders</i></p>

    <p>"The most candidly named cheese in existence." In season
    from November to June.</p>

    <p><b>Pultost or Knaost</b><br >
     <i>Norway</i></p>

    <p>Sour milk with some buttermilk, farm made in mountains.</p>

    <p><b>Pusztador</b><br >
     <i>Hungary</i></p>

    <p>Semihard, Limburger-Romadur type. Full flavor, high
    scent.</p>

    <p><b>Pyrenees, Fromage des</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A fine mountain variety.</p>

    <h3><!-- Page 278 --><a id="Page_278"></a> <a id="AtoZ_Q"></a><br >
     Q</h3>

    <p><b>Quartiolo</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Term used to distinguish Parmesan-type cheese made between
    September and November.</p>

    <p><b>Quacheq</b><br >
     <i>Macedonia, Greece</i></p>

    <p>Sheep, eaten both fresh and ripened.</p>

    <p><b>Quargel</b> <i>see</i> Olm&uuml;tzer.</p>

    <p><b>Quartirolo</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft, cow's milk.</p>

    <p><b>Queijos&mdash;Cheeses of the Azores, Brazil and
    Portugal</b> <i>see</i> under their local or regional names:
    Alemtejo, Azeit&atilde;o, Cardiga, Ilha, Prato and Serra da
    Estrella.</p>

    <p><b>Queso Anejo</b><br >
     <i>Mexico</i></p>

    <p>White, dry, skim milk.</p>

    <p><b>Queso de Bola</b><br >
     <i>Mexico</i></p>

    <p>Whole milk, similar to Edam.</p>

    <p><b>Queso de Cavallo</b><br >
     <i>Venezuela</i></p>

    <p>Pear-shaped cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Quesos Cheeses: Blanco, Cartera and Palma Metida</b>
    <i>see</i> Venezuela.</p>

    <p><b>Queso de Cincho</b><br >
     <i>Venezuela</i></p>

    <p>Hard, round orange balls weighing four pounds and wrapped in
    palm leaves.</p>

    <p><b>Queso de Crema</b><br >
     <i>Costa Rica</i></p>

    <p>Similar to soft Brick.</p>

    <p><b>Queso de Hoja, Leaf Cheese</b><br >
     <i>Puerto Rico</i></p>

    <p>Named from its appearance when cut, like leaves piled on top
    of each other.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 279 --><a id="Page_279"></a> <b>Queso de Mano</b><br >
     <i>Venezuela</i></p>

    <p>Aromatic, sharp, in four-ounce packages.</p>

    <p><b>Queso del Pais, Queso de la Tierra</b><br >
     <i>Puerto Rico</i></p>

    <p>White; pressed; semisoft Consumed locally,</p>

    <p><b>Queso de Prensa</b><br >
     <i>Puerto Rico</i></p>

    <p>The name means pressed cheese. It is eaten either fresh or
    after ripening two or three months.</p>

    <p><b>Queso de Puna</b><br >
     <i>Puerto Rico</i></p>

    <p>Like U.S. cottage or Dutch cheese, eaten fresh.</p>

    <p><b>Queso de Tapara</b><br >
     <i>Venezuela</i></p>

    <p>Made in Carora, near Barqisimeto, called <i>tapara</i> from
    the shape and tough skin of that local gourd. "It is very good
    fresh, but by the time it arrives in Carora it is often bad and
    dry." D.K.K. in <i>Bueno Provecho.</i></p>

    <p><b>Queso Fresco</b><br >
     <i>El Salvador</i></p>

    <p>Cottage-cheese type.</p>

    <p><b>Queville</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter
    3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Queyras</b> <i>see</i> Champol&eacute;on.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_R"></a><br >
     R</h3>

    <p><b>Raba&ccedil;al</b><br >
     <i>Coimbra, Portugal</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; sheep or goat; thick, round, four to five inches
    in diameter. Pleasantly oily, if made from sheep milk.</p>

    <p><b>Rabbit Cheese</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A playful name for Cheddar two to three years old.</p>

    <p><b>Radener</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Hard; skim, similar to Emmentaler; made in Mecklenburg.
    Sixteen by four inches, weight 32 pounds.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 280 --><a id="Page_280"></a> <b>Radolfzeller Cream</b><br >
     <i>Germany, Switzerland, Austria</i></p>

    <p>Similar to M&uuml;nster.</p>

    <p><b>Ragnit</b> <i>see</i> Tilsit.</p>

    <p><b>Rahmk&auml;se, Allg&auml;uer</b><br >
     <i>German</i></p>

    <p>Cream.</p>

    <p><b>Rainbow</b><br >
     <i>Mexico</i></p>

    <p>Mild; mellow.</p>

    <p><b>Ramadoux</b><br >
     <i>Belgium</i></p>

    <p>Soft; sweet cream; formed in cubes. Similar to
    Herv&eacute;</p>

    <p><b>Rammil or Rammel</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Andr&eacute; Simon calls this "the best cheese made in
    Dorsetshire." Also called Rammilk, because made from whole or
    "raw milk." Practically unobtainable today.</p>

    <p><b>Rangiport</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A good imitation of Port-Salut made in Seine-et-Oise.</p>

    <p><b>Rarush Durmar</b><br >
     <i>Turkey</i></p>

    <p>Brittle; mellow; nutty.</p>

    <p><b>R&auml;cherk&auml;se</b></p>

    <p>The name for all smoked cheese in Germanic countries, where
    it is very popular.</p>

    <p><b>Raviggiolo</b><br >
     <i>Tuscany, Italy</i></p>

    <p>Ewe's milk. Uncooked; soft; sweet; creamy.</p>

    <p><b>Rayon or Raper</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>A blind Emmentaler called Rayon is shipped young to Italy,
    where it is hardened by aging and then sold as Raper, for
    grating and seasoning.</p>

    <p><b>Reblochon or Roblochon</b><br >
     <i>Savoy</i></p>

    <p>Sheep; soft; whole milk; in season from October to June.
    Weight one to two pounds. A cooked cheese imitated as Brizecon
    in the same section.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 281 --><a id="Page_281"></a> <b>R&eacute;collet de
       G&eacute;rardmer</b><br >
     <i>Vosges, France</i></p>

    <p>A harvest variety similar to G&eacute;rom&eacute;, made from
    October to April.</p>

    <p><b>Red</b><br >
     <i>Russia</i></p>

    <p><i>see</i> Livlander.</p>

    <p><b>Red Balls</b><br >
     <i>Dutch</i></p>

    <p><i>see</i> Edam.</p>

    <p><b>Reggiano</b> <i>see</i> Grana.</p>

    <p><b>Regianito</b><br >
     <i>Argentine</i></p>

    <p>Italian Reggiano type with a name of its own, for it is not
    a mere imitation in this land of rich milk and extra fine
    cheeses.</p>

    <p><b>Reichk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>German</i></p>

    <p>Patriotically hailed as cheese of the empire, when Germany
    had one.</p>

    <p><b>Reindeer</b><br >
     <i>Lapland, Iceland, Sweden, Norway</i></p>

    <p>In all far northern lands a type of Swiss is made from
    reindeer milk It is lightly salted, very hard; and the Lapland
    production is curiously formed, like a dumbbell with angular
    instead of round ends.</p>

    <p><b>Relish cream cheese</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Mixed with any piquant relish and eaten fresh.</p>

    <p><b>Remoudon, or Fromage Piquant</b><br >
     <i>Belgium</i></p>

    <p>The two names combine in re-ground piquant cheese, and
    that's what it is. The season is winter, from November to
    June.</p>

    <p><b>Requeij&atilde;o</b><br >
     <i>Portugal and Brazil</i></p>

    <p>Recooked.</p>

    <p><b>Resurrection</b> <i>see</i> Welsh.</p>

    <p><b>Rhubarbe</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A type of Roquefort which, in spite of its name, is no
    relation to our pie plant.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 282 --><a id="Page_282"></a> <b>Riceys</b> <i>see</i> Champenois.</p>

    <p><b>Ricotta Romano</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft and fresh. The best is made from sheep buttermilk.
    Creamy, piquant, with subtle fragrance. Eaten with sugar and
    cinnamon, sometimes with a dusting of powdered coffee.</p>

    <p><b>Ricotta</b><br >
     <i>Italy and U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Fresh, moist, unsalted cottage cheese for sandwiches,
    salads, lasagne, blintzes and many Italian dishes. It is also
    mixed with Marsala and rum and relished for dessert Ricotta may
    be had in every Little Italy, some of it very well made and,
    unfortunately, some of it a poor substitute whey cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Ricotta Salata</b></p>

    <p>Hard; grayish white. Although its flavor is milk it is too
    hard and too salty for eating as is, and is mostly used for
    grating.</p>

    <p><b>Riesengebirge</b><br >
     <i>Bohemia</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; goat or cow; delicate flavor, lightly smoked in
    Bohemia's northern mountains.</p>

    <p><b>Rinnen</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>This traditional Pomeranian sour-milk, caraway-seeded
    variety is named from the wooden trough in which it is laid to
    drain.</p>

    <p><b>Riola</b><br >
     <i>Normandy, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; sheep or goat; sharp; resembles Mont d'Or but takes
    longer to ripen, two to three months.</p>

    <p><b>Robbiole<br >
     Robbiola<br >
     Robbiolini</b><br >
     <i>Lombardy</i><br >
     <i>Italian</i></p>

    <p>Very similar to Crescenza (<i>see</i>.) Alpine winter cheese
    of fine quality. The form is circular and flat, weighing from
    eight ounces to two pounds, while Robbiolini, the baby of the
    family tips the scale at just under four ounces.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 283 --><a id="Page_283"></a> <b>Roblochon, le</b></p>

    <p>Same as Reblochon. A delicious form of it is made of
    half-dried sheep's milk in Le Grand Bornand.</p>

    <p><b>Rocamadur</b><br >
     <i>Limousin, France</i></p>

    <p>Tiny sheep milk cheese weighing two ounces. In season
    November to May.</p>

    <p><b>Rocroi</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>From the Champagne district.</p>

    <p><b>Rokadur</b><br >
     <i>Yugoslavia</i></p>

    <p>Imitation Roquefort.</p>

    <p><b>Roll</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Hard cylinder, eight by nine inches, weighing twenty
    pounds.</p>

    <p><b>Rollot or Rigolot</b><br >
     <i>Picardy and Montdidier, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; fermented; mold-inoculated; resembles Brie and
    Camembert, but much smaller. In season October to May. This is
    Picardy's one and only cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Roma</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft cream.</p>

    <p><b>Romadour, Romadura, and other national
    spellings</b><br >
     <i>Germany, Austria, Hungary, Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>A great Linburger. The eating season is from November to
    April. It is not a summer cheese, especially in lands where
    refrigeration is scarce. Fine brands are exported to America
    from several countries.</p>

    <p><b>Romano, Romano Vacchino</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Strong flavoring cheese like Parmesan and Pecorino.</p>

    <p><b>Romanello</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Romano Vacchino and Old Monterey Jack. Small
    grating cheese, cured one year.</p>

    <p><b>Roquefort</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>King of cheeses, with its "tingling Rabelaisian pungency."
    <i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 284 --><a id="Page_284"></a> <b>Roquefort cheese dressing,
       bottled</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Made with genuine imported Roquefort, but with cottonseed
    oil instead of olive, plain instead of wine vinegar, sugar,
    salt, paprika, mustard, flour and spice oil.</p>

    <p><b>Roquefort de Corse</b><br >
     <i>Corsica, France</i></p>

    <p>This Corsican imitation is blue-colored and correctly made
    of sheep milk, but lacks the chalk caves of Auvergne for
    ripening.</p>

    <p><b>Roquefort de Tournemire</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Another Blue cheese of sheep milk from Languedoc, using the
    royal Roquefort name.</p>

    <p><b>Rougerets, les</b><br >
     <i>Lyonnais, France</i></p>

    <p>A typical small goat cheese from Forez, in a section where
    practically every variety is made with goat milk.</p>

    <p><b>Rouennais</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>This specialty, named after its city, Rouen, is a winter
    cheese, eaten from October to May.</p>

    <p><b>Round Dutch</b><br >
     <i>Holland</i></p>

    <p>An early name for Edam.</p>

    <p><b>Rouy, le</b><br >
     <i>Normandy, France</i></p>

    <p>From the greatest of the cheese provinces, Normandy.</p>

    <p><b>Royal Brabant</b><br >
     <i>Belgium</i></p>

    <p>Whole milk. Small, Limburger type.</p>

    <p><b>Royal Sentry</b><br >
     <i>Denmark</i></p>

    <p>Processed Swiss made in Denmark and shipped to Americans who
    haven't yet learned that a European imitation can be as bad as
    an American one. This particular pasteurized process-cheese
    spread puts its ingredients in finer type than any accident
    insurance policy: Samsoe (Danish Swiss) cheese, cream, water,
    non-fat dry milk solids, cheese whey solids and disodium
    phosphate.</p>

    <p><b>Ruffec, Fromage de</b><br >
     <i>Saintonge, France</i></p>

    <p>Fresh; goat.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 285 --><a id="Page_285"></a> <b>Runesten</b><br >
     <i>Denmark and U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Herrg&aring;rdsost. Small eyes. "Wheel" weighs
    about three pounds. Wrapped in red transparent film.</p>

    <p><b>Rush Cream Cheese</b><br >
     <i>England and France</i></p>

    <p>Not named from the rush in which many of our cheeses are
    made, but from the rush mats and nets some fresh cream cheeses
    are wrapped and sewed up in to ripen. According to an old
    English recipe the curds are collected with an ordinary
    fish-slice and placed in a rush shape, covered with a cloth
    when filled. Lay a half-pound weight in a saucer and set this
    on top of the strained curd for a few hours, and then increase
    the weight by about a half pound. Change the cloths daily until
    the cheese looks mellow, then put into the rush shape with the
    fish slice. The formula in use in France, where willow
    heart-shape baskets are sold for making this cheese, is as
    follows: Add one cup new warm milk to two cups freshly-skimmed
    cream. Dissolve in this one teaspoon of fine sugar and one
    tablespoon common rennet or thirty drops of Hauser's extract of
    rennet. Let it remain in a warm place until curd sets. Rush and
    straw mats are easily made by cutting the straw into lengths
    and stringing them with a needle and thread. The mats or
    baskets should not be used a second time.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_S"></a><br >
     S</h3>

    <p><b>Saaland Pfarr, or Prestost</b><br >
     <i>Sweden</i></p>

    <p>Firm; sharp; biting; unique of its kind because it is made
    with whiskey as an ingredient and the finished product is also
    washed with whiskey.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 286 --><a id="Page_286"></a> <b>Saanen</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Semihard and as mellow as all good Swiss cheese. This is the
    finest cheese in the greatest cheese land; an Emmentaler also
    known as Hartk&auml;se, Reibk&auml;se and Wallisk&auml;se, it
    came to fame in the sixteenth century and has always fetched an
    extra price for its quality and age. It is cooked much dryer in
    the making, so it takes longer to ripen and then keeps longer
    than any other. It weighs only ten to twenty pounds and the
    eyes are small and scarce. The average period needed for
    ripening is six years, but some take nine.</p>

    <p><b>Sage, or Green cheese</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>This is more of a cream cheese, than a Cheddar, as Sage is
    in the U.S.A. It is made by adding sage leaves and a greening
    to milk by the method described in <a href="#Page_37">Chapter
    4</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Affrique</b><br >
     <i>Guyenne, France</i></p>

    <p>This gourmetic center, hard by the celebrated town of
    Roquefort, lives up to its reputation by turning out a
    toothsome goat cheese of local renown.</p>

    <p>We will not attempt to describe it further, since like most
    of the host of cheeses honored with the names of Saints, it is
    seldom shipped abroad.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Agathon</b><br >
     <i>Brittany, France</i></p>

    <p>Season, October to July.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Amand-Montrond</b><br >
     <i>Berry, France</i></p>

    <p>Made from goat's milk.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Benoit</b><br >
     <i>Loiret, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft Olivet type distinguished by charcoal being added to
    the salt rubbed on the outside of the finished cheese. It
    ripens in twelve to fifteen days in summer, and eighteen to
    twenty in winter. It is about six inches in diameter.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 287 --><a id="Page_287"></a> <b>Saint-Claude</b><br >
     <i>Franche-Comt&eacute;, France</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; blue; goat; mellow; small; square; a quarter to a
    half pound. The curd is kept five to six hours only before
    salting and is then eaten fresh or put away to ripen.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Cyr</b> <i>see</i> Mont d'Or.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Didier au Mont d'Or</b> <i>see</i> Mont d'Or.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Florentin</b><br >
     <i>Burgundy, France</i></p>

    <p>A lusty cheese, soft but salty, in season from November to
    July.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Flour</b><br >
     <i>Auvergne, France</i></p>

    <p>Another seasonal specialty from this province of many
    cheeses.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Gelay</b><br >
     <i>Poitou, France</i></p>

    <p>Made from goat's milk.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Gervais, Pots de Creme, or Le Saint
    Gervais</b><br >
     <i>see</i> Pots de Cr&egrave;me.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Heray</b> <i>see</i> La Mothe.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Honor&eacute;</b><br >
     <i>Nivernais, France</i></p>

    <p>A small goat cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Hubert</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Brie.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Ivel</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Fresh dairy cream cheese containing <i>Lactobacillus
    acidophilus</i>. Similar to the yogurt cheese of the U.S.A.,
    which is made with <i>Bacillus Bulgaricus.</i></p>

    <p><b>Saint-Laurent</b><br >
     <i>Roussillon, France</i></p>

    <p>Mountain sheep cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Lizier</b><br >
     <i>B&eacute;arn, France</i></p>

    <p>A white, curd cheese.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 288 --><a id="Page_288"></a> <b>Saint-Loup, Fromage de</b><br >
     <i>Poitou and Vend&eacute;e, France</i></p>

    <p>Half-goat, half-cow milk, in season February to
    September</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Marcellin</b><br >
     <i>Dauphin&eacute;, France</i></p>

    <p>One of the very best of all goat cheeses. Three by &frac34;
    inches, weighing a quarter of a pound. In season from March to
    December. Sometimes sheep milk may be added, even cow's, but
    this is essentially a goat cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Moritz</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Soft and tangy.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Nectaire, or Senecterre</b><br >
     <i>Auvergne, France</i></p>

    <p>Noted as one of the greatest of all French goat cheeses.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Olivet</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter
    3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Pierre-Pouligny</b> <i>see</i>
    Pouligny-Saint-Pierre.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Reine</b> <i>see</i> Alise.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-R&eacute;my, Fromage de</b><br >
     <i>Haute-Sa&ocirc;ne, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft Pont l'Ev&ecirc;que type.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Stefano</b><br >
     <i>German</i></p>

    <p>Bel Paese type.</p>

    <p><b>Saint-Winx</b><br >
     <i>Flanders, France</i></p>

    <p>The fromage of Saint-Winx is a traditional leader in this
    Belgian border province noted for its strong, spiced dairy
    products.</p>

    <p><b>Sainte-Anne d'Auray</b><br >
     <i>Brittany, France</i></p>

    <p>A notable Port-Salut made by Trappist monks.</p>

    <p><b>Sainte-Marie</b><br >
     <i>Franche-Comt&eacute;, France</i></p>

    <p>A creamy concoction worthy of its saintly name.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 289 --><a id="Page_289"></a> <b>Sainte-Maure, le, or Fromage de
       Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Made in Touraine from May to November. Similar to
    Valen&ccedil;ay.</p>

    <p><b>Salamana</b><br >
     <i>Southern Europe</i></p>

    <p>Soft sheep's milk cheese stuffed into bladderlike sausage,
    to ripen. It has authority and flavor when ready to spread on
    bread, or to mix with cornmeal and cook into a highly
    cheese-flavored porridge.</p>

    <p><b>Salame</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft cream cheese stuffed into skins like salami sausages.
    Salami-sausage style of packing cheese has always been common
    in Italy, from Provolone down, and now&mdash;both as salami and
    links&mdash;it has became extremely popular for processed and
    cheese foods throughout America.</p>

    <p><b>Salers, Bleu de</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>One of the very good French Blues.</p>

    <p><b>Saligny</b><br >
     <i>Champagne, France</i></p>

    <p>White cheese made from sheep's milk.</p>

    <p><b>Saloio</b><br >
     <i>Lisbon, Portugal</i></p>

    <p>An aromatic farm-made hand cheese of skim milk. Short
    cylinder, 1&frac12; to two inches in diameter, weighing a
    quarter of a pound. Made near the capital, Lisbon, on many
    small farms.</p>

    <p><b>Salonite</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Favorite of Emperor Augustus a couple of thousand years
    ago.</p>

    <p><b>Saltee</b><br >
     <i>Ireland</i></p>

    <p>Firm; highly colored; tangy; boxed in half-pound slabs. The
    same as Whitethorn except for the added color. Whitethorn is as
    white as its name implies.</p>

    <p><b>Salt-free cheese, for diets</b></p>

    <p>U.S. cottage; French fresh goat cheese; and Luxembourg
    Kochenk&auml;se.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 290 --><a id="Page_290"></a> <b>Sams&ouml;</b><br >
     <i>Denmark</i></p>

    <p>Hard; white; sharp; slightly powdery and sweetish. This is
    the pet cheese of Erik Blegvad who illustrated this book.</p>

    <p><b>Sandwich Nut</b></p>

    <p>An American mixture of chopped nuts with Cream cheese or
    Neufch&acirc;tel.</p>

    <p><b>Sapsago</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter
    3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Sardegna</b><br >
     <i>Sardinia</i></p>

    <p>A Romano type made in Sardinia.</p>

    <p><b>Sardinian</b><br >
     <i>Sardinia, Italy</i></p>

    <p>The typical hard grating cheese of this section of
    Italy.</p>

    <p><b>Sardo</b><br >
     <i>Sardinia, Italy</i></p>

    <p>Hard; sharp; for table and for seasoning. Imitated in the
    Argentine. There is also a Pecorino named Sardo.</p>

    <p><b>Sarraz or Sarrazin</b><br >
     <i>Vaud, Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Roquefort type.</p>

    <p><b>Sassenage</b><br >
     <i>Dauphiny, France</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; bluer and stronger than Stilton. This makes a
    French trio of Blues with Septmoncel and Gex, all three of
    which are made with the three usual milks mixed: cow, goat and
    sheep. A succulent fermented variety for which both Grenoble
    and Sassenage are celebrated.</p>

    <p><b>Satz</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Hard cheese made in Saxony.</p>

    <p><b>Savoy, Savoie</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; mellow; tangy Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in
    Savoy.</p>

    <p><b>Sbrinz</b><br >
     <i>Argentine</i></p>

    <p>Hard; dry; nutty; Parmesan grating type.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 291 --><a id="Page_291"></a> <b>Scanno</b><br >
     <i>Abruzzi, Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft as butter; sheep; burnt taste, delicious with fruits.
    Blackened rind, deep yellow interior.</p>

    <p><b>Scarmorze or Scamorze</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Hard; buffalo milk; mild Provolone type. Also called Pear
    from being made in that shape, oddly enough also in pairs, tied
    together to hang from rafters on strings in ripening rooms or
    in the home kitchen. Fine when sliced thick and fried in olive
    oil. A specialty around Naples. Light-tan oiled rind, about
    3&frac12; by five inches in size. Imitated in Wisconsin and
    sold as Pear cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Schabziger</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter
    3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Schafk&auml;se (Sheep Cheese)</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Soft; part sheep milk; smooth and delightful.</p>

    <p><b>Schamser, or Rheinwald</b><br >
     <i>Canton Graubünden, Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Large skim-milker eighteen by five inches, weighing forty to
    forty-six pounds.</p>

    <p><b>Schlickermilch</b></p>

    <p>This might be translated "milk mud." It's another name for
    Bloder, sour milk "waddle" cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Schlesische Sauermilchk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Silesia, Poland</i></p>

    <p>Hard; sour-milker; made like hand cheese. Laid on
    straw-covered shelves, dried by a stove in winter and in open
    latticed sheds in summer. When very dry and hard, it is put to
    ripen in a cellar three to eight weeks and washed with warm
    water two or three times a week.</p>

    <p><b>Schlesischer Weichquarg</b><br >
     <i>Silesia, Poland</i></p>

    <p>Soft, fresh skim, sour curd, broken up and cooked at
    100&deg; for a short time. Lightly pressed in a cloth sack
    twenty-<!-- Page 292 -->
     <a id="Page_292"></a>four hours, then kneaded and shaped by
       hand, as all hand cheeses are. Sometimes sharply flavored
       with onions or caraway. Eaten fresh, before the strong hand
       cheese odor develops.</p>

    <p><b>Schloss, Schlossk&auml;se, or Bismarck</b><br >
     <i>German</i></p>

    <p>This Castle cheese, also named for Bismarck and probably a
    favorite of his, together with Bismarck jelly doughnuts, is an
    aristocratic Limburger that served as a model for
    Liederkranz.</p>

    <p><b>Schmierk&auml;se</b></p>

    <p>German cottage cheese that becomes smearcase in America.</p>

    <p><b>Schnitzelbank Pot</b> <i>see</i> Liederkranz,
    <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Schoenland</b><br >
     <i>German</i></p>

    <p>Imitation of Italian Bel Paese, also translated "beautiful
    land."</p>

    <p><b>Sch&uuml;tzenk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>Romadur-type. Small rectangular blocks weighing less than
    four ounces and wrapped in tin foil.</p>

    <p><b>Shottengsied</b><br >
     <i>Alpine</i></p>

    <p>A whey cheese made and consumed locally in the Alps.</p>

    <p><b>Schwarzenberger</b><br >
     <i>Hungary and Bohemia</i></p>

    <p>One part skim to two parts fresh milk. It takes two to three
    months to ripen.</p>

    <p><b>Schweizerk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>German for Swiss cheese. (<i>See</i> Emmentaler.)</p>

    <p><b>Schweizerost Dansk, Danish Swiss Cheese</b><br >
     <i>Denmark</i></p>

    <p>A popular Danish imitation of Swiss Swiss cheese that is
    nothing wonderful.</p>

    <p><b>Select Brick</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_158">Chapter
    12</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Selles-sur Cher</b><br >
     <i>Berry, France</i></p>

    <p>A goat cheese, eaten from February to September.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 293 --><a id="Page_293"></a> <b>S&eacute;necterre</b><br >
     <i>Puy-de-D&ocirc;me, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, whole-milk; cylindrical, weighing about 1&frac12;
    pounds.</p>

    <p><b>Septmoncel</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; skim; blue-veined; made of all three milks: cow,
    goat and sheep. An excellent "Blue" ranked above Roquefort by
    some, and next to Stilton. Also called Jura Bleu, and a member
    of the triple milk triplets with Gex and Sassenage.</p>

    <p><b>Serbian</b><br >
     <i>Serbia</i></p>

    <p>Made most primitively by dropping heated stones into a
    kettle of milk over an open fire. After the rennet is added,
    the curd stands for an hour and is separated from the whey by
    being lifted in a cheesecloth and strained. It is finally put
    in a wooden vessel to ripen. First it is salted, then covered
    each day with whey for eight days and finally with fresh milk
    for six.</p>

    <p>Syria also makes a cheese called Serbian from goat's milk.
    It is semisoft.</p>

    <p><b>Serbian Butter</b> <i>see</i> Kajmar.</p>

    <p><b>Serra da Estrella, Queijo da (Cheese of the Star Mountain
    Range)</b><br >
     <i>Portugal</i></p>

    <p>The finest of several superb mountain-sheep cheeses in
    Portugal. Other milk is sometimes added, but sheep is standard.
    The milk is coagulated by an extract of thistle or cardoon
    flowers in two to six hours. It is ripened in circular forms
    for several weeks and marketed in rounds averaging five pounds,
    about ten by two inches. The soft paste inside is pleasantly
    oily and delightfully acid.</p>

    <p><b>Sharp-flavored cheese</b></p>

    <p>U.S. aged Cheddars, including Monterey Jack; Italian Romano
    Fecorino, Old <!-- Page 294 --><a id="Page_294"></a> Asiago, Gorgonzola, Incanestrato and
       Caciocavallo; Spanish de Fontine; Aged Roumanian
       Kaskaval.</p>

    <p><b>Shefford</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_11">Chapter
    2</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Silesian</b><br >
     <i>Poland and Germany</i></p>

    <p>White; mellow; caraway-seeded. Imitated in the U.S.A. (see
    Schlesischer.)</p>

    <p><b>Sir cheeses</b></p>

    <p>In Yugoslavia, Montenegro and adjacent lands Sir or Cyr
    means cheese. Mostly this type is made of skimmed sheep milk
    and has small eyes or holes, a sharp taste and resemblance to
    both American Brick and Limburger. They are much fewer than the
    Saint cheeses in France.</p>

    <p><b>Sir Iz Mjesine</b><br >
     <i>Dalmatia, Yugoslavia</i></p>

    <p>Primitively made by heating skim sheep milk in a bottle over
    an open fire, coagulating it quickly with pig or calf rennet,
    breaking up the curd with a wooden spoon and stirring it by
    hand over the fire. Pressed into forms eight inches square and
    two inches thick, it is dried for a day and either eaten fresh
    or cut into cubes, salted, packed in green sheep or goat hides,
    and put away to ripen.</p>

    <p><b>Sir Mastny</b><br >
     <i>Montenegro</i></p>

    <p>Fresh sheep milk.</p>

    <p><b>Sir Posny</b><br >
     <i>Montenegro</i></p>

    <p>Hard; skim sheep milk; white, with many small holes. Also
    answers to the names of Tord and Mrsav.</p>

    <p><b>Sir, Twdr</b> <i>see</i> Twdr Sir.</p>

    <p><b>Sir, Warshawski</b> <i>see</i> Warshawski Syr.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 295 --><a id="Page_295"></a> <b>Siraz</b><br >
     <i>Serbia</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; whole milk. Mellow.</p>

    <p><b>Skyr</b><br >
     <i>Iceland</i></p>

    <p>The one standard cheese of the country. A cross between
    Devonshire cream and cream cheese, eaten with sugar and cream.
    It is very well liked and filling, so people are apt to take
    too much. A writer on the subject gives this bit of useful
    information for travelers: "It is not advisable, however, to
    take coffee and Skyr together just before riding, as it gives
    you diarrhea."</p>

    <p><b>Slipcote, or Colwick</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Soft; unripened; small; white; rich as butter. The curd is
    put in forms six by two inches for the whey to drain away. When
    firm it is placed between cabbage leaves to ripen for a week or
    two, and when it is taken from the leaves the skin or coat
    becomes loose and easily slips off&mdash;hence the name. In the
    middle of the eighteenth century it was considered the best
    cream cheese in England and was made then, as today, in
    Wissenden, Rutlandshire.</p>

    <p><b>Sm&auml;ltost</b><br >
     <i>Sweden</i></p>

    <p>Soft and melting.</p>

    <p><b>Smearcase</b></p>

    <p>Old English corruption of German Schmierk&auml;se, long used
    in America for cottage cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Smoked Block</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>A well-smoked cheese in block form.</p>

    <p><b>Smoked Mozzarella</b> <i>see</i> Mozzarella
    Affumicata.</p>

    <p><b>Smoked Szekely</b><br >
     <i>Hungary</i></p>

    <p>Soft; sheep; packed like sausage in skins or bladders and
    smoked.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 296 --><a id="Page_296"></a> <b>Smokelet</b><br >
     <i>Norway</i>.</p>

    <p>A small smoked cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Soaked-curd cheese</b> <i>see</i> Washed-curd cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Sorbais</b><br >
     <i>Champagne, France</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; whole milk; fermented; yellow, with reddish brown
    rind. Full flavor, high smell. Similar to Maroilles in taste
    and square shape, but smaller.</p>

    <p><b>Sorte Maggenga and Sorte Vermenga</b></p>

    <p>Two "sorts" of Italian Parmesan.</p>

    <p><b>Soumaintrain, Fromage de</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; fine; strong variety from Upper Burgundy.</p>

    <p><b>Soybean</b><br >
     <i>China</i></p>

    <p>Because this cheese is made of vegetable milk and often
    developed with a vegetable rennet, it is rated by many as a
    regular cheese. But our occidental kind with animal milk and
    rennet is never eaten by Chinese and the mere mention of it has
    been known to make them shiver.</p>

    <p><b>Spalen or Stringer</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>A small Emmentaler of fine reputation made in the Canton of
    Unterwalden from whole and partly skimmed milk and named from
    the vessel in which five or six are packed and transported
    together.</p>

    <p><b>Sperrk&auml;se</b> <i>see</i> Dry.</p>

    <p><b>Spiced</b><br >
     <i>International</i></p>

    <p>Many a bland cheese is saved from oblivion by the addition
    of spice, to give it zest. One or more spices are added in the
    making and thoroughly mixed with the finished product, so the
    cheese often takes the name of the spice: Kuminost
    <!-- Page 297 --><a id="Page_297"></a> or Kommenost for cumin; Caraway in
       English and several other languages, among them K&uuml;mmel,
       Nokkelost and Leyden; Friesan Clove and Nagelkass; Sage;
       Thyme, cloverleaf Sapsago; whole black pepper Pepato,
       etc.</p>

    <p><b>Spiced and Spiced Spreads</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Government standards for spiced cheeses and spreads specify
    not less than 1&frac12; ounces of spice to 100 pounds of
    cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Spiced Fondue</b> <i>see</i> Vacherin Fondu.<br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p><b>Spitz Spitzkase</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Small cylinder, four by one and a half inches. Caraway
    spiced, Limburger-like. <i>see</i> Backsteiner.</p>

    <p><b>Sposi</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft; small; cream.</p>

    <p><b>Spra</b><br >
     <i>Greek</i></p>

    <p>Sharp and pleasantly salty, packed fresh from the brine bath
    in one-pound jars. As tasty as all Greek cheeses because they
    are made principally from sheep milk.</p>

    <p><b>St&auml;ngenkase</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Limburger type.</p>

    <p>Stein K&auml;se<br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Aromatic, piquant "stone." A beer stein accompaniment well
    made after the old German original.</p>

    <p><b>Steinbuscher-K&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>German</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; firm; full cream; mildly sour and pungent. Brick
    forms, reddish and buttery. Originated in Frankfurt. Highly
    thought of at home but little known abroad.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 298 --><a id="Page_298"></a> <b>Steppe</b><br >
     <i>Russia, Germany, Austria, Denmark</i></p>

    <p>German colonists made and named this in Russia. Rich and
    mellow, it tastes like Tilsiter and is now made in Denmark for
    export, as well as in Germany and Austria for home
    consumption.</p>

    <p>Stilton <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Stirred curd cheese</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Cheddar, but more granular, softer in texture and
    marketed younger.</p>

    <p><b>Stracchino</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft; goat; fresh cream; winter; light yellow; very sharp,
    rich and pungent. Made in many parts of Italy and eaten sliced,
    never grated. A fine cheese of which Taleggio is the leading
    variety. See in <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>. Also see
    Certoso Stracchino.</p>

    <p>Stracchino Crescenza is an extremely soft and highly colored
    member of this distinguished family.</p>

    <p><b>Stravecchio</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Well-aged, according to the name. Creamy and mellow.</p>

    <p><b>Stringer</b> <i>see</i> Spalen.</p>

    <p><b>Styria</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>Whole milk. Cylindrical form.</p>

    <p><b>Suffolk</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>An old-timer, seldom seen today. Stony-hard, horny "flet
    milk" cartwheels locally nicknamed "bang." Never popular
    anywhere, it has stood more abuse than Limburger, not for its
    smell but for its flinty hardness.</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Hunger will break
            through stone walls and anything</span><br >
             <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">except a Suffolk
            cheese."</span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <!-- Page 299 --><a id="Page_299"></a> <span>"Those that made me were
                 uncivil<br ></span> <span>For they made me harder
                 than the devil.<br ></span> <span>Knives won't
                 cut me; fire won't sweat me;<br ></span>
                 <span>Dogs bark at me, but can't eat
                 me."<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p><b>Surati, Panir</b><br >
     <i>India</i></p>

    <p>Buffalo milk. Uncolored.</p>

    <p><b>Suraz</b><br >
     <i>Serbia</i></p>

    <p>Semihard and semisoft.</p>

    <p><b>Sveciaost</b><br >
     <i>Sweden</i></p>

    <p>A national pride, named for its country, Swedish cheese, to
    match Swiss cheese and Dutch cheese. It comes in three
    qualities: full cream, &frac34; cream, and half cream. Soft;
    rich; ready to eat at six weeks and won't keep past six months.
    A whole-hearted, whole-milk, wholesome cheese named after the
    country rather than a part of it as most <i>osts</i> are.</p>

    <p><b>Sweet-curd</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Hard Cheddar, differing in that the milk is set sweet and
    the curd cooked firmer and faster, salted and pressed at once.
    When ripe, however, it is hardly distinguishable from the usual
    Cheddar made by the granular process.</p>

    <p><b>Swiss</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>In 1845 emigrants from Galrus, Switzerland, founded New
    Galrus, Wisconsin and, after failing at farming due to cinch
    bugs gobbling their crops, they turned to cheesemaking and have
    been at it ever since. American Swiss, known long ago as picnic
    cheese, has been their standby, and only in recent years these
    Wisconsin Schweizers have had competition from Ohio and other
    states who turn out the typical cartwheels, which still look
    like the genuine imported Emmentaler.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 300 --><a id="Page_300"></a> <b>Szekely</b><br >
     <i>Transylvania, Hungary</i></p>

    <p>Soft; sheep; packed in links of bladders and sometimes
    smoked. This is the type of foreign cheese that set the popular
    style for American processed links, with wine flavors and
    everything.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_T"></a><br >
     T</h3>

    <p><b>Taffel, Table, Taffelost</b><br >
     <i>Denmark</i></p>

    <p>A Danish brand name for an ordinary slicing cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Tafi</b><br >
     <i>Argentina</i></p>

    <p>Made in the rich province of Tucuman.</p>

    <p><b>Taiviers, les Petits Fromages de</b><br >
     <i>P&eacute;rigord, France</i></p>

    <p>Very small and tasty goat cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Taleggio</b><br >
     <i>Lombardy, Italy</i></p>

    <p>Soft, whole-milk, Stracchino type.</p>

    <p><b>Tallance</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Goat.</p>

    <p><b>Tamie</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Port-Salut made by Trappist monks at Savoy from their method
    that is more or less a trade secret. Tome de Beaumont is an
    imitation produced not far away.</p>

    <p><b>Tanzenberger</b><br >
     <i>Carinthia, Austria</i></p>

    <p>Limburger type.</p>

    <p><b>Tao-foo or Tofu</b><br >
     <i>China, Japan, the Orient</i></p>

    <p>Soybean curd or cheese made from the "milk" of soybeans. The
    beans are ground and steeped, made into a paste that's boiled
    so the starch dissolves with the casein. After being strained
    off, the "milk" is coagulated with a solution of gypsum. This
    is then handled in the <!-- Page 301 --><a id="Page_301"></a>same way as animal milk in making ordinary
       cow-milk cheeses. After being salted and pressed in molds it
       is ready to be warmed up and added to soups and cooked
       dishes, as well as being eaten as is.</p>

    <p><b>Teleme</b><br >
     <i>Rumania</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Brinza and sometimes called Branza de Bralia.
    Made of sheep's milk and rapidly ripened, so it is ready to eat
    in ten days.</p>

    <p><b>Terzolo</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Term used to designate Parmesan-type cheese made in
    winter.</p>

    <p><b>T&ecirc;te &agrave; T&ecirc;te, T&ecirc;te de Maure,
    Moor's Head</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Round in shape. French name for Dutch Edam.</p>

    <p><b>T&ecirc;te de Moine, Monk's Head</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A soft "head" weighing ten to twenty pounds. Creamy, tasty,
    summer Swiss, imitated in Jura, France, and also called
    Bellelay.</p>

    <p><b>T&ecirc;te de Mort</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Gras for this
    death's head.</p>

    <p><b>"The Tempting cheese of Fyvie"</b><br >
     <i>Scotland</i></p>

    <p>Something on the order of Eve's apple, according to the
    Scottish rhyme that exposes it:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>The first love token ye gae me<br ></span>
            <span>Was the tempting cheese of Fyvie.<br ></span>
            <span>O wae be to the tempting cheese,<br ></span>
            <span>The tempting cheese of Fyvie,<br ></span>
            <span>Gat me forsake my ain gude man<br ></span>
            <span>And follow a fottman laddie.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p><b>Texel</b></p>

    <p>Sheep's milk cheese of three or four pounds made on the
    island of Texel, off the coast of the Netherlands.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 302 --><a id="Page_302"></a> <b>Thenay</b><br >
     <i>Vend&ocirc;me, France</i></p>

    <p>Resembles Camembert and Vend&ocirc;me.</p>

    <p><b>Thion</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>A fine Emmentaler.</p>

    <p><b>Three Counties</b><br >
     <i>Ireland</i></p>

    <p>An undistinguished Cheddar named for the three counties that
    make most of the Irish cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Thuringia Caraway</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>A hand cheese spiked with caraway.</p>

    <p><b>Thyme</b><br >
     <i>Syria</i></p>

    <p>Soft and mellow, with the contrasting pungence of thyme. Two
    other herbal cheeses are flavored with thyme&mdash;both French:
    Fromage Fort II, Hazebrook II.</p>

    <p><b>Tibet</b><br >
     <i>Tibet</i></p>

    <p>The small, hard, grating cheeses named after the country
    Tibet, are of sheep's milk, in cubes about two inches on all
    sides, with holes to string them through the middle, fifty to a
    hundred on each string. They suggest Chinese strings of cash
    and doubtless served as currency, in the same way as Chinese
    cheese money. (<i>See under</i> Money.)</p>

    <p><b>Tignard</b><br >
     <i>Savoy, France</i></p>

    <p>Hard; sheep or goat; blue-veined; sharp; tangy; from Tigne
    Valley in Savoy. Similar to Gex, Sassenage and Septmoncel.</p>

    <p><b>Tijuana</b><br >
     <i>Mexico</i></p>

    <p>Hard; sharp; biting; named from the border race-track
    town.</p>

    <p><b>Tillamook</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter
    4</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Tilsit, or Tilsiter K&auml;se, also called
    Ragnit</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>This classical variety of East Prussia is similar to
    American Brick. Made of whole milk, with many small holes that
    give it an open texture, as in Port-Salut, which it also
    resembles, although it is stronger and coarser.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 303 --><a id="Page_303"></a>Old Tilsiter is something special in
       aromatic tang, and attempts to imitate it are made around
       the world. One of them, Ov&aacute;r, is such a good copy it
       is called Hungarian Tilsit. There are American, Danish, and
       Canadian&mdash;even Swiss&mdash;imitations.</p>

    <p>The genuine Tilsit has been well described as "forthright in
    flavor; a good snack cheese, but not suitable for elegant
    post-prandial dallying."</p>

    <p><b>Tilziski</b><br >
     <i>Yugoslavia</i></p>

    <p>A Montenegrin imitation Tilsiter.</p>

    <p><b>Tome de Beaumont</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Whole cow's milk.</p>

    <p><b>Tome, la</b><br >
     <i>Auvergne, France</i></p>

    <p>Also called Fourme, Cantal, or Fromage de Cantal. A kind of
    Cheddar that comes from Ambert, Aubrac, Aurillac, Grand-Murol,
    R&ocirc;che, Salers, etc.</p>

    <p><b>Tome de Ch&egrave;vre</b><br >
     <i>Savoy, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft goat cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Tome de Savoie</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft paste; goat or cow. Others in the same category are:
    Tome des Beagues, Tome au Fenouil, Tome Doudane.</p>

    <p><b>Tomelitan Gruy&egrave;re</b><br >
     <i>Norway</i></p>

    <p>Imitation of French Gruy&egrave;re in 2&frac12; ounce
    packages.</p>

    <p><b>Topf or Topfk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>A cooked cheese to which Pennsylvania pot is similar. Sour
    skim milk cheese, eaten fresh and sold in packages of one
    ounce. When cured it is flaky.</p>

    <p><b>Toscano, or Pecorino Toscano</b><br >
     <i>Tuscany, Italy</i></p>

    <p>Sheep's milk cheese like Romano but softer, and therefore
    used as a table cheese.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 304 --><a id="Page_304"></a> <b>Toscanello</b><br >
     <i>Tuscany, Italy</i></p>

    <p>A smaller edition of Toscano.</p>

    <p><b>Touareg</b><br >
     <i>Berber, Africa</i></p>

    <p>Skim milk often curdled with Korourou leaves. The soft curd
    is then dipped out onto mats like pancake batter and sun dried
    for ten days or placed by a fire for six, with frequent
    turning. Very hard and dry and never salted. Made from Lake
    Tchad to the Barbary States by Berber tribes.</p>

    <p><b>Tour Eiffel</b><br >
     <i>Berry, France</i></p>

    <p>Besides naming this Berry cheese, Tour Eiffel serves as a
    picturesque label and trademark for a brand of Camembert.</p>

    <p><b>Touloumisio</b><br >
     <i>Greece</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Feta.</p>

    <p><b>Tournette</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Small goat cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Tourne de ch&egrave;vre</b><br >
     <i>Dauphin&eacute;, France</i></p>

    <p>Goat cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Trappe, la, or Oka</b><br >
     <i>Canada</i></p>

    <p>Truly fine Port-Salut named for the Trappist order and its
    Canadian monastery.</p>

    <p><b>Trappist</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter
    3</a>.</p>

    <p><b>Trappist</b><br >
     <i>Yugoslavia</i></p>

    <p>Trappist Port-Salut imitation.</p>

    <p><b>Trauben (Grape)</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Swiss or Gruy&egrave;re aged in Swiss Neuch&acirc;tel wine
    and so named for the grape.</p>

    <p><b>Travnik, Travnicki</b><br >
     <i>Albania, Russia, Yugoslavia</i></p>

    <p>Soft, sheep whole milk with a little goat sometimes and
    occasionally skim milk. More than a century of success in
    Europe, Turkey and adjacent lands where it is also known as
    Arnauten, Arnautski Sir and Vlasic.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 305 --><a id="Page_305"></a>When fresh it is almost white and has a
       mild, pleasing taste. It ripens to a stronger flavor in from
       two weeks to several months, and is not so good if holes
       should develop in it. The pure sheep-milk type when aged is
       characteristically oily and sharp.</p>

    <p><b>Traz os Montes</b><br >
     <i>Portugal</i></p>

    <p>Soft; sheep; oily; rich; sapid. For city turophiles
    nostalgically named "From the Mountains." All sheep cheese is
    oily, some of it a bit muttony, but none of it at all
    tallowy.</p>

    <p><b>Trecce</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Small, braided cheese, eaten fresh.</p>

    <p><b>Triple Aurore</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Normandy cheese in season all the year around.</p>

    <p><b>Troo</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Made and consumed in Touraine from May to January.</p>

    <p><b>Trouville</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, fresh, whole milk. Pont l'Ev&ecirc;que type of
    superior quality.</p>

    <p><b>Troyes, Fromage de</b> <i>see</i> Barberey and Ervy.</p>

    <p><b>Truckles</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>No. I: Wiltshire, England. Skimmed milk; blue-veined variety
    like Blue Vinny. The quaint word is the same as used in truckle
    or trundle bed. On Shrove Monday Wiltshire kids went from door
    to door singing for a handout:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>Pray, dame, something,<br ></span> <span>An
            apple or a dumpling,<br ></span> <span>Or a piece of
            Truckle cheese<br ></span> <span>Of your own
            making.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 306 --><a id="Page_306"></a>No. II: Local name in the West of England
       for a full cream Cheddar put up in loaves.</p>

    <p><b>Tschil</b><br >
     <i>Armenia</i></p>

    <p>Also known as Leaf, Telpanir and Zwirn. Skim milk of either
    sheep or cows. Made into cakes and packed in skins in a land
    where wine is drunk from skin canteens, often with Tschil.</p>

    <p><b>Tuile de Flandre</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>A type of Marolles.</p>

    <p><b>Tullum Penney</b><br >
     <i>Turkey</i></p>

    <p>Salty from being soaked in brine.</p>

    <p><b>Tuna, Prickly Pear</b><br >
     <i>Mexico</i></p>

    <p>Not an animal milk cheese, but a vegetable one, made by
    boiling and straining the pulp of the cactuslike prickly pear
    fruit to cheeselike consistency. It is chocolate-color and
    sharp, piquantly pleasant when hard and dry. It is sometimes
    enriched with nuts, spices and/or flowers. It will keep for a
    very long time and has been a dessert or confection in Mexico
    for centuries.</p>

    <p><b>Tuscano</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; cream color; a sort of Tuscany Parmesan.</p>

    <p><b>Twdr Sir</b><br >
     <i>Serbia</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft sheep skim-milk cheese with small holes and a sharp
    taste. Pressed in forms two by ten to twelve inches in
    diameter. Similar to Brick or Limburger.</p>

    <p><b>Twin Cheese</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Outstanding American Cheddar marketed by Joannes Brothers,
    Green Bay, Wisconsin.</p>

    <p><b>Tworog</b><br >
     <i>Russia</i></p>

    <p>Semihard sour milk farm (not factory) made. It is used in
    the cheese bread called Notruschki.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 307 --><a id="Page_307"></a> <b>Tybo</b><br >
     <i>Denmark</i></p>

    <p>Made in Copenhagen from pasteurized skim milk.</p>

    <p><b>Tyrol Sour</b><br >
     <i>German</i></p>

    <p>A typical Tyrolean hand cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Tzgone</b><br >
     <i>Dalmatia</i></p>

    <p>The opposite number of Tzigen, just below.</p>

    <p><b>Tzigenk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft; skimmed sheep, goat or cow milk. White; sharp and
    salty; originated in Dalmatia.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_U"></a><br >
     U</h3>

    <p><b>Urda</b><br >
     <i>Rumania</i></p>

    <p>Creamy; sweet; mild.</p>

    <p><b>Uri</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Hard; brittle; white; tangy. Made in the Canton of Uri.
    Eight by eight to twelve inches, weight twenty to forty
    pounds.</p>

    <p><b>Urseren</b><br >
     <i>Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>Mild flavored. Cooked curd.</p>

    <p><b>Urt, Fromage d'</b></p>

    <p>Soft Port-Salut type of the Basque country.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_V"></a><br >
     V</h3>

    <p><b>Vacherin</b><br >
     <i>France and Switzerland</i></p>

    <p>I. Vacherin &agrave; la Main. Savoy, France. Firm, leathery
    rind, soft interior like Brie or Camembert; round, five to six
    by twelve inches in diameter. Made in summer to eat in winter.
    When fully ripe it is almost a cold version of the great dish
    called Fondue. Inside the hard-rind container is a velvety,
    spicy, aromatic cream, more runny than Brie, so it can be eaten
    with a spoon, dunked in, or spread on bread. The local name is
    Tome de Montague.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 308 --><a id="Page_308"></a>II. Vacherin Fondu, or Spiced Fondu.
       Switzerland. Although called Fondu from being melted, the
       No. I Vacherin comes much closer to our conception of the
       dish Fondue, which we spell with an "e."</p>

    <p>Vacherin No. II might be called a re-cooked and spiced
    Emmentaler, for the original cheese is made, and ripened about
    the same as the Swiss classic and is afterward melted, spiced
    and reformed into Vacherin.</p>

    <p><b>Val-d'Andorre, Fromage du</b><br >
     <i>Andorra, France</i></p>

    <p>Sheep milk.</p>

    <p><b>Valdeblore, le</b><br >
     <i>Nice, France</i></p>

    <p>Hard, dried, small Alpine goat cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Valen&ccedil;ay, or Fromage de Valen&ccedil;ay</b><br >
     <i>Touraine, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft; cream; goat milk; similar to Saint-Maure. In season
    from May to December. This was a favorite with Francis I.</p>

    <p><b>Valio</b><br >
     <i>Finland</i></p>

    <p>One-ounce wedges, six to a box, labeled pasteurized process
    Swiss cheese, made by the Cooperative Butter Export
    Association, Helsinki, Finland, to sell to North Americans to
    help them forget what real cheese is.</p>

    <p><b>Valsic</b><br >
     <i>Albania</i></p>

    <p>Crumbly and sharp.</p>

    <p><b>Varalpenland</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Alpine. Piquant, strong in flavor and smell.</p>

    <p><b>Varennes, Fromage de</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, fine, strong variety from Upper Burgundy.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 309 --><a id="Page_309"></a> <b>V&auml;sterbottenost</b><br >
     <i>West Bothnia</i></p>

    <p>Slow-maturing. One to one-and-a-half years in ripening to a
    pungent, almost bitter taste.</p>

    <p><b>V&auml;stg&ouml;taost</b><br >
     <i>West Gothland, Sweden</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; sweet and nutty. Takes a half year to mature.
    Weight twenty to thirty pounds.</p>

    <p><b>Vend&ocirc;me, Fromage de</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Hard; sheep; round and flat; like la Cendr&eacute;e in being
    ripened under ashes. There is also a soft Vend&ocirc;me sold
    mostly in Paris.</p>

    <p><b>Veneto, Venezza</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Parmesan type, similar to Asiago. Usually sharp.</p>

    <p><b>Vic-en-Bigorre</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Winter cheese of B&eacute;arn in season October to May.</p>

    <p><b>Victoria</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>The brand name of a cream cheese made in Guilford.</p>

    <p><b>Ville Saint-Jacques</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Ile-de-France winter specialty in season from November to
    May.</p>

    <p><b>Villiers</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Soft, one-pound squares made in Haute-Marne.</p>

    <p><b>Viry-vory, or Vary</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Fresh cream cheese.</p>

    <p><b>Viterbo</b><br >
     <i>Italy</i></p>

    <p>Sheep milk usually curdled with wild artichoke, <i>Cynara
    Scolymus</i>. Strong grating and seasoning type of the
    Parmesan-Romano-Pecorino family.</p>

    <p><b>Vize</b><br >
     <i>Greece</i></p>

    <p>Ewe's milk; suitable for grating.</p>

    <p><b>Void</b><br >
     <i>Meuse, France</i></p>

    <p>Soft associate of Pont l'Ev&ecirc;que and Limburger.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 310 --><a id="Page_310"></a> <b>Volvet Kaas</b><br >
     <i>Holland</i></p>

    <p>The name means "full cream" cheese and that&mdash;according
    to law&mdash;has 45% fat in the dry product (<i>See</i>
    Gras.)</p>

    <p><b>Vorarlberg Sour-milk</b><br >
     <i>Greasy</i></p>

    <p>Hard; greasy; semicircular form of different sizes, with
    extra-strong flavor and odor. The name indicates that it is
    made of sour milk.</p>

    <p><b>Vory, le</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Fresh cream variety like Neufch&acirc;tel and Petit
    Suisse.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_W"></a><br >
     W</h3>

    <p><b>Warshawski Syr</b><br >
     <i>Poland</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; fine nutty flavor; named for the capital city of
    Poland.</p>

    <p><b>Warwickshire</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>Derbyshire type.</p>

    <p><b>Washed-curd cheese</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Cheddar. The curd is washed to remove acidity and
    any abnormal flavors.</p>

    <p><b>Wedesslborg</b><br >
     <i>Denmark</i></p>

    <p>A mild, full cream loaf of Danish blue that can be very good
    if fully ripened.</p>

    <p><b>Weisschmiere</b><br >
     <i>Bavaria, Germany</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Weisslacker, a slow-ripening variety that takes
    four months.</p>

    <p><b>Weisslacker, White Lacquer</b><br >
     <i>Bavaria</i></p>

    <p>Soft; piquant; semisharp; Allg&auml;uer-type put up in
    cylinders and rectangles, 4&frac12; by 4 by 3&frac12;, weighing
    2&frac12; pounds. One of Germany's finest soft cheeses.</p>

    <p><b>Welsh cheeses</b></p>

    <p>The words Welsh and cheese have become synonyms down the
    ages. Welsh "cheeses can be attractive: the pale, mild
    Caerphilly was famous at one time, and nowadays has usually a
    factory flavor. A soft cream cheese can be obtained at some
    farms, and sometimes holds the same delicate melting
    sensuousness <!-- Page 311 --><a id="Page_311"></a>that is found in the poems of John
       Keats.</p>

    <p>"The 'Resurrection Cheese' of Llanfihangel Abercowyn is no
    longer available, at least under that name. This cheese was so
    called because it was pressed by gravestones taken from an old
    church that had fallen into ruins. Often enough the cheeses
    would be inscribed with such wording as 'Here lies Blodwen
    Evans, aged 72.'" (From <i>My Wales</i> by Rhys Davies.)</p>

    <p><b>Wensleydale</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. England, Yorkshire.
    Hard; blue-veined; double cream; similar to</span><br >
     Stilton. This production of the medieval town of Wensleydale
    in the Ure Valley is also called Yorkshire-Stilton and is in
    season from June to September. It is put up in the same
    cylindrical form as Stilton, but smaller. The rind is
    corrugated from the way the wrapping is put on.</p>

    <p>II. White; flat-shaped; eaten fresh; made mostly from
    January through the Spring, skipping the season when the
    greater No. I is made (throughout the summer) and beginning to
    be made again in the fall and winter.</p>

    <p><b>Werder, Elbinger and Niederungsk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>West Prussia</i></p>

    <p>Semisoft cow's-milker, mildly acid, shaped like Gouda.</p>

    <p><b>West Friesian</b><br >
     <i>Netherlands</i></p>

    <p>Skim-milk cheese eaten when only a week old. The honored
    antiquity of it is preserved in the anonymous English
    couplet:</p>

    <div class="poem">
        <div class="stanza">
            <span>Good bread, good butter and good
            cheese<br ></span> <span>Is good English and good
            Friese.<br ></span>
        </div>
    </div>

    <p><!-- Page 312 --><a id="Page_312"></a> <b>Westphalia Sour Milk, or
       Brioler</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>Sour-milk hand cheese, kneaded by hand. Butter and/or egg
    yolk is mixed in with salt, and either pepper or caraway seeds.
    Then the richly colored curd is shaped by hand into small balls
    or rolls of about one pound. It is dried for a couple of hours
    before being put down cellar to ripen. The peculiar flavor is
    due partly to the seasonings and partly to the curd being
    allowed to putrify a little, like Limburger, before
    pressing.</p>

    <p>This sour-milker is as celebrated as Westphalian raw ham. It
    is so soft and fat it makes a sumptuous spread, similar to
    Tilsit and Brinza. It was named Brioler from the "Gute Brioler"
    inn where it was perfected by the owner, Frau Westphal, well
    over a century ago.</p>

    <p>The English sometimes miscall it Bristol from a
    Hobson-Jobson of the name Briol.</p>

    <p><b>Whale Cheese</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>In <i>The Cheddar Box,</i> Dean Collins tells of an ancient
    legend in which the whales came into Tillamook Bay to be
    milked; and he poses the possible origin of some waxy
    fossilized deposits along the shore as petrified whale-milk
    cheese made by the aboriginal Indians after milking the
    whales.</p>

    <p><b>White, Fromage Blanc</b><br >
     <i>France</i></p>

    <p>Skim-milk summer cheese made in many parts of the country
    and eaten fresh, with or without salt.</p>

    <p><b>White Cheddar</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Any Cheddar that isn't colored with anatto is known as White
    Cheddar. Green Bay brand is a fine example of it.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 313 --><a id="Page_313"></a> <b>White Gorgonzola</b></p>

    <p>This type without the distinguishing blue veins is little
    known outside of Italy where it is highly esteemed. (<i>See</i>
    Gorgonzola.)</p>

    <p><b>White Stilton</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>This white form of England's royal blue cheese lacks the
    aristocratic veins that are really as green as Ireland's
    flag.</p>

    <p><b>Whitethorn</b><br >
     <i>Ireland</i></p>

    <p>Firm; white; tangy; half-pound slabs boxed. Saltee is the
    same, except that it is colored.</p>

    <p><b>Wilstermarsch-K&auml;se Holsteiner Marsch</b><br >
     <i>Schleswig-Holstein, Germany</i></p>

    <p>Semihard; full cream; rapidly cured; Tilsit type; very fine;
    made at Itzehoe.</p>

    <p><b>Wiltshire or Wilts</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>A Derbyshire type of sharp Cheddar popular in Wiltshire.
    (<i>See</i> North Wilts.)</p>

    <p><b>Wisconsin Factory Cheeses</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Have the date of manufacture stamped on the rind, indicating
    by the age whether the flavor is "mild, mellow, nippy, or
    sharp." American Cheddar requires from eight months to a year
    to ripen properly, but most of it is sold green when far too
    young.</p>

    <p>Notable Wisconsiners are Loaf, Limburger, Redskin and
    Swiss.</p>

    <p><b>Withania</b><br >
     <i>India</i></p>

    <p>Cow taboos affect the cheesemaking in India, and in place of
    rennet from calves a vegetable rennet is made from withania
    berries. This names a cheese of agreeable flavor when ripened,
    but, unfortunately, it becomes acrid with age.</p>

    <h3><!-- Page 314 --><a id="Page_314"></a> <a id="AtoZ_Y"></a><br >
     Y</h3>

    <p><b>Yoghurt, or Yogurt</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Made with <i>Bacillus bulgaricus</i>, that develops the
    acidity of the milk. It is similar to the English Saint
    Ivel.</p>

    <p><b>York, York Curd and Cambridge York</b><br >
     <i>England</i></p>

    <p>A high-grade cream cheese similar to Slipcote, both of which
    are becoming almost extinct since World War II. Also, this type
    is too rich to keep any length of time and is sold on the straw
    mat on which it is cured, for local consumption.</p>

    <p><b>Yorkshire-Stilton</b><br >
     <i>Cotherstone, England</i></p>

    <p>This Stilton, made chiefly at Cotherstone, develops with age
    a fine internal fat which makes it so extra-juicy that it's a
    general favorite with English epicures who like their game well
    hung.</p>

    <p><b>York State</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Short for New York State, the most venerable of our
    Cheddars.</p>

    <p><b>Young America</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>A mild, young, yellow Cheddar.</p>

    <p><b>Yo-yo</b><br >
     <i>U.S.A.</i></p>

    <p>Copying pear-and apple-shaped balls of Italian Provolone
    hanging on strings, a New York cheesemonger put out a Cheddar
    on a string, shaped like a yo-yo.</p>

    <h3><a id="AtoZ_Z"></a><br >
     Z</h3>

    <p><b>Ziegel</b><br >
     <i>Austria</i></p>

    <p>Whole milk, or whole milk with cream added. Aged only two
    months.</p>

    <p><b>Ziegenk&auml;se</b><br >
     <i>Germany</i></p>

    <p>A general name in Germanic lands for cheeses made of goat's
    milk. Altenburger is a leader among Ziegenk&auml;se.</p>

    <p><!-- Page 315 --><a id="Page_315"></a> <b>Ziger</b></p>

    <p><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. This whey product is
    not a true cheese, but a cheap form of food</span><br >
     made in all countries of central Europe and called albumin
    cheese, Recuit, Ricotta, Broccio, Brocotte, Serac, Ceracee,
    etc. Some are flavored with cider and others with vinegar.
    There is also a whey bread.</p>

    <p>II. Similar to Corsican Broccio and made of sour sheep milk
    instead of whey. Sometimes mixed with sugar into small
    cakes.</p>

    <p><b>Zips</b> <i>see</i> Brinza.</p>

    <p><b>Zomma</b><br >
     <i>Turkey</i></p>

    <p>Similar to Caciocavallo.</p>

    <p><b>Zwirn</b> <i>see</i> Tschil.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p><!-- Page 316 --><a id="Page_316"></a> &nbsp;</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div>
        <img src="images/316.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 500px; height: 237px">
    </div>

    <h2>Index of Recipes</h2>
    <!-- NOTE: Page Numbers in this document are numbered higher by 5 than
        the numbers in the printed book, due to the title and table of contents pages. -->

    <p>American Cheese Salad, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br >
     Angelic Camembert, <a href="#Page_125">120</a><br >
     Apple and Cheese Salad, <a href="#Page_135">130</a><br >
     Apple Pie &agrave; la Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br >
     Apple Pie Adorned, <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br >
     Apple Pie, Cheese-crusty, <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br >
     Asparagus and Cheese, Italian,
    <a href="#Page_115">110</a><br >
     au Gratin<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Eggs,
    <a href="#Page_130">125</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Potatoes,
    <a href="#Page_130">125</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomatoes,
    <a href="#Page_130">125</a></span><br >
    <br >
     Blintzes, <a href="#Page_116">111</a><br >
     Brie or Camembert Salad, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br >
    <br >
     Camembert, Angelic, <a href="#Page_125">120</a><br >
     Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola,
    <a href="#Page_127">122</a><br >
     Cheddar Omelet, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br >
     Cheese and Nut Salad, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br >
     Cheese and Pea Salad, <a href="#Page_135">130</a><br >
     Cheese Cake, Pineapple, <a href="#Page_122">117</a><br >
     Cheese Charlotte, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br >
     Cheese-crusty Apple Pie, <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br >
     Cheese Custard, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br >
     Cheese Pie, Open-faced, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br >
     Cheese Sauce, Plain, <a href="#Page_136">131</a><br >
     Cheese Waffles, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br >
     Cheesed Mashed Potatoes, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br >
     Chicken Cheese Soup, <a href="#Page_132">127</a><br >
     Cottage Cheese Pancakes, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br >
     Christmas Cake Sandwiches, <a href="#Page_125">120</a><br >
     Cold Dunking, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br >
     Custard, Cheese, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br >
    <br >
     Dauphiny Ravioli, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br >
     Diablotins, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br >
     Dumpling, Napkin, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br >
     Dunking, Cold, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br >
    <br >
     Eggs au Gratin, <a href="#Page_130">125</a><br >
    <br >
     <!-- Page 317 --><a id="Page_317"></a> Flan au Fromage,
       <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br >
     Fondue<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">&agrave; l'Italienne,
    <a href="#Page_89">84</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">All-American,
    <a href="#Page_90">85</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">au Fromage,
    <a href="#Page_95">90</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Baked Tomato,
    <a href="#Page_94">89</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Brick,
    <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Catsup Tummy Fondiddy,
    Quickie, <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheddar Dunk Bowl,
    <a href="#Page_98">93</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, and Corn,
    <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese and Rice,
    <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chives,
    <a href="#Page_93">88</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Comtois,
    <a href="#Page_93">88</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Corn and Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Neufch&acirc;tel Style,
    <a href="#Page_87">82</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">100% American,
    <a href="#Page_95">90</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan,
    <a href="#Page_91">86</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy,
    <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rice, and Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sapsago Swiss,
    <a href="#Page_91">86</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato,
    <a href="#Page_94">89</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato
    Baked,<a href="#Page_94">89</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Vacherin-Fribourg,
    <a href="#Page_93">88</a></span><br >
     Fritters, Italian, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br >
     Fritto Misto, Italian, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br >
    <br >
     Garlic on Cheese, <a href="#Page_115">110</a><br >
     Gorgonzola and Banana Salad, <a href="#Page_134">129</a><br >
     Green Cheese Salad Julienne, <a href="#Page_132">127</a><br >
    <br >
     Italian Asparagus and Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_115">110</a><br >
     Italian Fritters, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br >
     Italian Fritto Misto, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br >
     Italian-Swiss Scallopini, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br >
    <br >
     Little Hats, Cappelletti, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br >
    <br >
     Meal-in-One Omelet, A, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br >
     Miniature Pizzas, <a href="#Page_112">107</a><br >
    <br >
     Napkin Dumpling, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br >
     Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br >
    <br >
     Omelet<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheddar,
    <a href="#Page_140">135</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Meal-in-One,
    <a href="#Page_140">135</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan,
    <a href="#Page_140">135</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato,
    <a href="#Page_141">136</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">with Cheese Sauce,
    <a href="#Page_141">136</a></span><br >
     Onion Soup, <a href="#Page_131">126</a><br >
     Onion Soup au Gratin, <a href="#Page_131">126</a><br >
     Open-faced Cheese Pie, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br >
    <br >
     Pancakes, Cottage Cheese, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br >
     Parmesan Omelet, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br >
     Parsleyed Cheese Sauce, <a href="#Page_136">131</a><br >
     Pfeffern&uuml;sse and Caraway,
    <a href="#Page_139">134</a><br >
     Pineapple Cheese Cake, <a href="#Page_122">117</a><br >
     Piroghs, Polish, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br >
     Pizza, <a href="#Page_111">106</a><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_112">107</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dough,
    <a href="#Page_111">106</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Miniature,
    <a href="#Page_112">107</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato Paste,
    <a href="#Page_112">107</a></span><br >
     Polish Piroghs, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br >
     Potatoes au Gratin, <a href="#Page_130">125</a><br >
     Potatoes, Mashed, Cheesed, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br >
     Puffs<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Breakfast,
    <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, New England,
    <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cream Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Danish Fondue,
    <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fried,
    <a href="#Page_104">99</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">New England Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan,
    <a href="#Page_104">99</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roquefort,
    <a href="#Page_104">99</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Three-in-One,
    <a href="#Page_103">98</a></span><br >
    <br >
     Rabbit<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">After-Dinner,
    <a href="#Page_60">55</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">All-American Succotash,
    <a href="#Page_82">77</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">American Woodchuck,
    <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Anchovy,
    <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Asparagus,
    <a href="#Page_73">68</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Basic</span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">No. 1 (with beer),
    <a href="#Page_54">49</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 2em;">No. 2 (with milk),
    <a href="#Page_55">50</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Blushing Bunny,
    <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br >
     <!-- Page 318 --><a id="Page_318"></a>
       <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Border-hopping Bunny,
       <a href="#Page_65">60</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Bouquet of the Sea,"
    <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Buttermilk,
    <a href="#Page_81">76</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Celery and Onion,
    <a href="#Page_72">67</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chipped Beef,
    <a href="#Page_71">66</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cream Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_80">75</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Crumby,
    <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Crumby Tomato,
    <a href="#Page_76">71</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Curry,
    <a href="#Page_81">76</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Danish,
    <a href="#Page_82">77</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Devil's Own, The,
    <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dr. Maginn's,
    <a href="#Page_59">54</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dried Beef,
    <a href="#Page_71">66</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dutch,
    <a href="#Page_77">72</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Easy English,
    <a href="#Page_83">78</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Eggnog,
    <a href="#Page_82">77</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fish, Fresh or Dried,
    <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fluffy, Eggy,
    <a href="#Page_69">64</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Frijole,
    <a href="#Page_65">60</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gherkin,
    <a href="#Page_76">71</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ginger Ale,
    <a href="#Page_81">76</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Golden Buck,
    <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Golden Buck II,
    <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grilled Sardine,
    <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grilled Tomato,
    <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grilled Tomato and Onion,
    <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gruy&egrave;re,
    <a href="#Page_78">73</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kansas Jack,
    <a href="#Page_71">66</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lady Llanover's Toasted,
    <a href="#Page_57">52</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Latin-American Corn,
    <a href="#Page_72">67</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mexican Chilaly,
    <a href="#Page_69">64</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mushroom-Tomato,
    <a href="#Page_72">67</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Onion Rum Tum Tiddy,
    <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Original Recipe, Ye,
    <a href="#Page_62">57</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oven,
    <a href="#Page_63">58</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oyster,
    <a href="#Page_73">68</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pink Poodle,
    <a href="#Page_79">74</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pumpernickel,
    <a href="#Page_77">72</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Reducing,
    <a href="#Page_80">75</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roe,
    <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rum Tum Tiddy,
    <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rum Tum Tiddy, Onion,
    <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rum Tum Tiddy, Sherry,
    <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Running,
    <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sardine, Grilled,
    <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sardine, Plain,
    <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Savory Eggy Dry,
    <a href="#Page_80">75</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Scotch Woodcock,
    <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sea-food,
    <a href="#Page_73">68</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sherry,
    <a href="#Page_78">73</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy,
    <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Smoked Cheddar,
    <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Smoked fish,
    <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">South African Tomato,
    <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spanish Sherry,
    <a href="#Page_79">74</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stieff Recipe, The,
    <a href="#Page_56">51</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_78">73</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato,
    <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato and Onion, Grilled,
    <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, Crumby,
    <a href="#Page_76">71</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, Grilled,
    <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato Soup,
    <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, South American,
    <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Venerable Yorkshire Buck, The,
    <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yale College,
    <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yorkshire,
    <a href="#Page_63">58</a></span><br >
     Ramekins<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">&agrave; la Parisienne,
    <a href="#Page_108">103</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Casserole,
    <a href="#Page_110">105</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese I,
    <a href="#Page_106">101</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese II,
    <a href="#Page_107">102</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese III,
    <a href="#Page_107">102</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese IV,
    <a href="#Page_108">103</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Frying Pan,
    <a href="#Page_110">105</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mor&eacute;zien,
    <a href="#Page_109">104</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Puff Paste,
    <a href="#Page_110">105</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roquefort-Swiss,
    <a href="#Page_109">104</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss-Roquefort,
    <a href="#Page_109">104</a></span><br >
     Ravioli, Dauphiny, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br >
     Roquefort, Champagned, <a href="#Page_127">122</a><br >
     Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing,
    <a href="#Page_135">130</a><br >
     Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad,
    <a href="#Page_134">129</a><br >
    <br >
     <!-- Page 319 --><a id="Page_319"></a> Salad<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">American Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Apple and Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_135">130</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Brie,
    <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Camembert,
    <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese and Nut,
    <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese and Pea,
    <a href="#Page_135">130</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gorgonzola and Banana,
    <a href="#Page_134">129</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Green Cheese Salad Julienne,
    <a href="#Page_132">127</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rosie's Swiss Breakfast
    Cheese, <a href="#Page_134">129</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_134">129</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Three-in-One Mold,
    <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br >
     Sandwiches<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Alpine Club,
    <a href="#Page_146">141</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Boston Beany, Open-face,
    <a href="#Page_146">141</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheeseburgers,
    <a href="#Page_146">141</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Deviled Rye,
    <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Egg, Open-faced,
    <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">French-fried Swiss,
    <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar,
    <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">He-man, Open-faced,
    <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">International,
    <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jurassiennes, or Cro&ucirc;tes
    Comtoises, <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">K&uuml;mmelk&auml;se,
    <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Limburger Onion, or Catsup,
    <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Meringue, Open-faced,
    <a href="#Page_149">144</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Neufch&acirc;tel and Honey,
    <a href="#Page_149">144</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Newfoundland Toasted Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_153">148</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oskar's Ham-Cam,
    <a href="#Page_149">144</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pickled Camembert,
    <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Queijo da Serra,
    <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roquefort Nut,
    <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Smoky, Sturgeon-smoked,
    <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tangy,
    <a href="#Page_151">146</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Toasted Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_153">148</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Unusual&mdash;of&nbsp;
    Flowers, Hay and Clover,
    <a href="#Page_151">146</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Vegetarian,
    <a href="#Page_151">146</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Witch's,
    <a href="#Page_152">147</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Xochomilco,
    <a href="#Page_152">147</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yolk Picnic,
    <a href="#Page_152">147</a></span><br >
     Sauce<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_136">131</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mornay,
    <a href="#Page_136">131</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parsleyed Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_136">131</a></span><br >
     Sauce Mornay, <a href="#Page_136">131</a><br >
     Scallopini, Italian-Swiss, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br >
     Schnitzelbank Pot, <a href="#Page_42">37</a><br >
     Souffl&eacute;<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Basic,
    <a href="#Page_100">95</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Corn,
    <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese Fritter,
    <a href="#Page_103">98</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Mushroom,
    <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Potato,
    <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Sea-food,
    <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Spinach,
    <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Tomato,
    <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Corn-Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mushroom-Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan,
    <a href="#Page_100">95</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan-Swiss,
    <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Potato-Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sea-food-Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spinach-Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss,
    <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato-Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br >
     Soup<br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chicken Cheese,
    <a href="#Page_132">127</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Onion,
    <a href="#Page_131">126</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Onion, au Gratin,
    <a href="#Page_131">126</a></span><br >
     <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Supa Shetgia,
    <a href="#Page_138">133</a></span><br >
     Spanish Flan&mdash;Quesillo, <a href="#Page_141">136</a><br >
     Straws, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br >
     Stuffed Celery, <a href="#Page_137">132</a><br >
     Supa Shetgia, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br >
     Swiss Cheese Salad, <a href="#Page_134">129</a><br >
    <br >
     Three-in-One Mold, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br >
     Tomato Omelet, <a href="#Page_141">136</a><br >
     Tomatoes au Gratin, <a href="#Page_130">125</a><br >
    <br >
     Vatroushki, <a href="#Page_116">111</a><br >
    <br >
     Waffles, Cheese, <a href="#Page_117">112</a></p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>
    <hr style="width: 65%;" >

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <h2><a id="ABOUT_THE_AUTHOR"></a>
       <!-- Page 320 --><a id="Page_320"></a> <img src="images/320.gif" alt="Illustration: house" style="width: 125px; height: 100px"> ABOUT THE AUTHOR</h2>
    <hr style="width: 75%;" >

    <p>Bob Brown, after living thirty years in as many foreign
    lands and enjoying countless national cheeses at the source,
    returned to New York and summed them all up in this book.</p>

    <p>Born in Chicago, he was graduated from Oak Park High School
    and entered the University of Wisconsin at the exact moment
    when a number of imported Swiss professors in this great dairy
    state began teaching their students how to hole an
    Emmentaler.</p>

    <p>After majoring in beer and free lunch from Milwaukee to
    Munich, Bob celebrated the end of Prohibition with a book
    called <i>Let There Be Beer!</i> and then decided to write
    another about Beer's best friend, Cheese. But first he
    collaborated with his mother Cora and wife Rose on <i>The Wine
    Cookbook</i>, still in print after nearly twenty-five years.
    This first manual on the subject in America paced a baker's
    dozen food-and-drink books, including: <i>America Cooks, 10,000
    Snacks, Fish and Seafood</i> and <i>The South American
    Cookbook</i>.</p>

    <p>For ten years he published his own weekly magazines in Rio
    de Janeiro, Mexico City and London. In the decade before that,
    from 1907 to 1917, he wrote more than a thousand short stories
    and serials under his full name, Robert Carlton Brown. One of
    his first books, <i>What Happened to Mary</i>, became a best
    seller and was the first five-reel movie. This put him in
    <i>Who's Who</i> in his early twenties.</p>

    <p>In 1928 he retired to write and travel. After a couple of
    years spent in collecting books and bibelots throughout
    <!-- Page 321 --><a id="Page_321"></a> the Orient, he settled down in Paris with
       the expatriate group of Americans and invented the Reading
       Machine for their delectation. Nancy Cunard published his
       <i>Words</i> and Harry Crosby printed <i>1450-1950</i> at
       the Black Sun Press, while in Cagnes-sur-Mer Bob had his own
       imprint Roving Eye Press, that turned out <i>Demonics; Gems,
       a Censored Anthology; Globe-gliding</i> and <i>Readies for
       Bob Brown's Machine</i> with contributions by Gertrude
       Stein, Ezra Pound, Kay Boyle, James T. Farrell <i>et
       al.</i></p>

    <p>The depression drove him back to New York, but a decade
    later he returned to Brazil that had long been his home away
    from home. There he wrote <i>The Amazing Amazon</i>, with his
    wife Rose, making a total of thirty books bearing his name.</p>

    <p>After the death of his wife and mother, Bob Brown closed
    their mountain home in Petropolis, Brazil, and returned to New
    York where he remarried and now lives, in the Greenwich Village
    of his free-lancing youth. With him came the family's working
    library in a score of trunks and boxes, that formed the basis
    of a mail-order book business in which he specializes today in
    food, drink and other out-of-the-way items.</p>

    <p>&nbsp;</p>

    <div class="blockquot">
        <p><!-- Page 322 --><a id="Page_322"></a> [Compiler's Notes: Moved page on
           author's other books from page 1 of project to follow
           the title page.<br >
         Removed publisher's copyright information from page
        3.<br >
         Removed references to Introduction, as it was omitted from
        the book project.<br >
         Added A to Z links to the Appendix in the Table of
        Contents]</p>
    </div>

<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14293 ***</div>
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