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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14213 ***
+
+[Transcriber's Note: At the conclusion of this diary, the author writes:
+"If these notes should ever be written out by my relations after my
+death--for I am now like to die, let me beg that the many mistakes in
+spelling, consequent upon the hurry and roughness of the writing, may by
+corrected and not set down to ignorance." The relations may indeed have
+corrected many errors, but many remain, and they have been left as in
+the original.]
+
+
+
+
+THREE MONTHS OF MY LIFE.
+
+
+A DIARY
+
+OF THE LATE J.F. FOSTER, ASSISTANT-SURGEON, HER MAJESTY'S 36TH FOOT.
+
+
+
+
+_Edited by LIZZIE A. FREETH._
+
+
+GUERNSEY:
+LE LIEVRE, PRINTER, STAR-OFFICE, 10, BORDAGE STREET.
+LONDON: SIMPKIN & MARSHALL
+1873.
+
+
+
+
+I DEDICATE,
+
+_Firstly,_
+
+MY GRATITUDE TO GOD--
+FOR HIS MERCY IN PRESERVING ME THUS FAR,
+AND BRINGING ME SAFELY HOME AFTER
+SEVERAL YEARS SERVICE IN INDIA,
+TO MEET AGAIN ALL (SAVE ONE) THOSE MOST
+DEAR TO ME.
+
+_And Secondly,_
+
+MY BOOK TO MY PARENTS,
+WITH THE CERTAIN AND HAPPY KNOWLEDGE
+THAT THEY WILL READ WITHOUT CRITICISM
+AND ONLY WITH AFFECTIONATE INTEREST,
+THE ACCOUNT OF MY THOUGHTS AND EXPERIENCES
+WHILE WANDERING IN A REMOTE
+AND LOVELY CORNER OF
+THE EARTH.
+
+
+
+
+EDITOR'S PREFACE.
+
+
+In laying the following pages before the public, I do so with a feeling
+that they will be read with interest, not only by those who knew the
+writer, but those to whom the scenes described therein are known, and
+also those who appreciate a true description of a country which they may
+never have the good fortune to see. We are all familiar with Kashmir in
+the "fanciful imagery of Lalla Rookh," at the same time may not object
+to reading an account--with a ring of truth in it--of that lovely land,
+lovely and grand, beyond the power of poets to describe as it really
+is, so travellers say. Readers will see that Mr. Foster intended to have
+published this Diary himself had he been spared to reach England, he has
+offered any apology that is necessary, so I will say nothing further
+than to state, the daily entries were kept in a pocket-book written in
+pencil, occasionally a word is not quite legible, that will account for
+any little inaccuracy. After being two years at Elizabeth College,
+Guernsey, under the Rev. A. Corfe, Mr. Foster entered St. George's
+Hospital, as Student of Medicine, he received there in his last year the
+"Ten Guinea Prize" for General Proficiency. From St. George's he went to
+Netley, and on leaving that he served for a short time in Jersey, with
+the 2nd Battallion 1st Royals, and 1st Battallion 6th Royals, after
+which he embarked for India, where from February, 1868, to the beginning
+of 1869, he served with the following Regiments, &c., 91st Highlanders,
+at Dum Dum; F Battery C. Brigade Royal Horse Artillery, at Benares; 27th
+Inniskillings, at Hazareebagh, Bengal Depôt, Chinsurah; Detachment 58th
+Regiment, at Sahibgunge; Head-Quarters 58th Regiment, at Sinchal, again
+at the Bengal Depôt Chinsurah; Head-Quarters 107th Regiment, at
+Allahabad; Detachment 107th Regiment, at Fort Allahabad; G Battery 11th
+Brigade Royal Artillery, at Cawnpore; Left Wing 36th Regiment,
+Moradabad; Head-Quarters 36th Regiment, Peshawur, from whence
+ultimately we find he started for Kashmir in the hope of regaining his
+health, a vain hope as events proved, as he died on the passage home at
+Malta. During the course of publication I have received many letters
+from people who were personally acquainted with Mr. Foster who had met
+him at home and abroad, from the tone of which letters I gather he was
+held in the highest possible estimation as a friend, a medical man, and
+an officer. I am indebted to the kindness of his father, Dr. John L.
+Foster, of this island, for being allowed to publish these interesting
+memorials of one who had now passed "To where beyond these voices there
+is peace."
+
+LIZZIE A. FREETH.
+Montpellier, Guernsey, Nov. 1873.
+
+
+
+
+AUTHOR'S PREFACE.
+
+
+This Work requires few prefatory remarks. I have transcribed without
+alteration, the Diary that I kept during my visit to Kashmir. It may
+seem a strange jumble of description and sentiment, jocularity and
+seriousness. During the greater part of each day I enjoyed perfect rest,
+smoking and thinking--sometimes soberly, often I fear idly--and for mere
+occupation sake, my thoughts were written as they arose. My mind as
+influenced by scene or incident, is fully exposed in these pages, and
+while I have concealed nothing, neither have I added to that which I
+originally indited. I am necessarily, and indeed intentionally
+egotistical, because I write for those who will chiefly value a personal
+narrative. Still, I am not ashamed if others see my book, although I
+would deprecate their criticism by begging them to remember that I only
+offer it for the perusal of those near and dear to me.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+In the early morning of Midsummer's-day, 1868, I might have been seen
+slowly wending my way towards the office of the Deputy Inspector General
+of Hospitals, at Peshawur--for the purpose of appearing before the
+standing Medical Committee of the station, and having an enquiry made
+concerning the state of my health. A Dooley followed me lest my strength
+should prove inadequate to the task of walking a quarter of a mile. But
+let me make my description as short as the Committee did their enquiry.
+My face, as white as the clothes I wore, told more than my words could,
+and I was hardly required to recount how that one burning May-day I was
+called at noon to visit a sick woman, and that while all other Europeans
+were in their closed and darkened bungalows with punkahs swinging, and
+thermautidotes blowing cool breezes, I went forth alone on my medical
+mission to encounter the fierce gaze of the baneful sun, and was
+overpowered by its fiery influence, or how that I laid a weary month on
+the sick bed, tormented by day with a never ceasing headache, and by
+night with a terrible dread, worse than any pain, or to conclude, how
+the deadly climate of that notoriously evil station afforded me no
+prospect of improvement. This relation was scarcely needed to procure
+me a certificate, stating that three months leave of absence to Murree
+was absolutely essential for my recovery, and a recommendation that I
+might be allowed to proceed immediately in anticipation of the leave
+being granted. So the next evening saw me start from Peshawur for Rawul
+Pindee, in a Dâk Gharie, accompanied by my dog "Silly" and my Madrapee
+servant or "Boy." Onwards we sped at a gallop, the horses being changed
+every six miles, through Nowshera, the furnace; over the rapid and icy
+cold Indus by boat; past Fort Attock, the oven in which our soldiers are
+done to death; and Hussan Aboul of Lallah Rooke celebrity; arriving at
+the French Hotel at Pinder, ten miles from Peshawur the following
+morning. That day I called upon the Officers of the 6th Foot, with whom
+I had served in Jersey, and was persuaded to dine at mess. A melancholy
+dinner it was for me, meeting old friends whom I had not seen for so
+long. Yet not possessing energy enough for conversation or feeling the
+spirit of "Hail fellows, well met." I felt that my moody silence and
+ghostlike appearance (for I was dressed in black) threw a gloom over
+them. This was no doubt a morbid fancy as also was perhaps the idea that
+they looked at me with pitying eyes. But these feelings seized me, and
+increased till they became unbearable, and I was glad to escape to my
+Hotel.
+
+
+
+
+"THREE MONTHS OF MY LIFE."
+
+A DIARY.
+
+
+JULY 4th, 1868.--Started from Murree for Kashmir at 5.30 a.m. Bell,
+Surgeon 36th Regt. [Since deceased] came with me four miles. Walked on
+expecting the dandy to overtake me, but it did not, and I marched all
+the way, nine miles up a steep hill to Khaira Gullee, where I halted and
+put up in one of the old sheds formerly used by the working party when
+the road was being made. I am not tired, though my left heel is
+blistered, which is fair considering I have not walked half a mile for
+more than a month. The road is excellent and the scenery fine, the Khuds
+being sometimes deep, but nothing like the eastern Himalayas. The forest
+too is quite different, fir trees predominating here. Saw many beautiful
+birds, and regretted I had not brought my gun. In the evening a
+thunderstorm came on with a cold wind from the north, so I made a good
+fire with a few fir logs. In the middle of the night the storm became
+very violent, and large hailstones fell.
+
+
+JULY 5th.--Got away at sunrise, the rain having quite cleared off, and
+marched on to Doonga Gullee, up a hill to an elevation of 9,000 feet,
+and then down again to about 7,000; then up a final steep to Doonga
+Gullee, 8,000 feet above the sea. The Khuds much grander very deep and
+precipitous, sometimes falling one or two thousand feet from the edge of
+the road almost perpendicularly. But the hills are too close together to
+allow the valleys to be termed magnificent. Reached Doonga Gullee at 10
+a.m. The length of last march, eleven miles--the road, a good military
+one, has been cut in the face of the mountain. Put up at the Dâk
+Bungalow, and dined with the officers of the working party; among them
+Heath, of the 88th, and Leggatt and Lyons, of the 77th, whom I knew. A
+number of tents are pitched here for the working parties from the 19th
+and 77th Regiments (road making). I was carried part of the march in my
+dandy--a piece of carpet gathered at each end and hooked to a pole,--the
+pole being carried on the shoulders of two men. I swung below it just
+off the ground, and could often look down a vast depth between my knees.
+My first pickled tongue, cooked the day before yesterday was fly-blown
+at breakfast this morning. This may seem a trifling note, but it is
+ominous I fear for the whole of my salted stores.
+
+
+JULY 6th.--Got up at 4 o'clock and marched on to Bugnoota, a distance
+of thirteen miles. The first four miles a slight rise, and then a rapid
+descent all the rest of the way. The road is much narrower, only a mule
+track in fact, I walked twelve miles, and then felt tired, and had a
+headache afterwards. Pitched my tent in a tope, (a grove of trees) in
+company with Dr. and Mrs. Holmes, of Rohat, whom I did not know. Slight
+rain in the middle of the day, but it cleared off towards evening. Felt
+all right after an hour's sleep and took a stroll before dinner. Scenery
+grand, tent pitched on the edge of a deep gorge at the bottom of which
+is a mountain stream, the hills rising abruptly on the opposite side.
+
+
+JULY 7th.--Marched on to Abbottabad at sunrise, down hill to the river,
+and then along its course for two miles over very rough and fatiguing
+ground, the river having to be forded twice. In rainy weather this is
+very dangerous as its rush is so impetuous. Up hill again then down into
+the plain of Abbottabad, 4,000 feet above the sea. Distance twelve miles
+though only put down eight in the route. Met the General at the bottom
+of the hill. Put up at the Dâk Bungalow, and met Ford, 88th, and De
+Marylski, R.A., returning from Kashmir, got some hints from them.
+Abbottabad is a small cantonment on a large plain surrounded by bare
+mountains, a notice is posted in my room warning travellers not to go
+unarmed; so I'll gird on my Kookery to-morrow. A Kookery is a formidable
+native knife, about eighteen inches long and over two inches wide,
+carried in a peculiar way, sheep and goats heads come off very easily at
+a single blow from it. Much hotter down here, the sun powerful after 10
+o'clock, but Punkahs not necessary. This is the Head-Quarters of the
+Punjab Frontier force. A pity they do not have an English Regiment
+stationed here as it is a very pleasant place as regards climate. Snow
+in winter, and this the warmest time of the year quite bearable.
+Brigadier gone to the _hills_ for the _hot weather._ Took in supplies of
+bread and butter and purchased a pair of chuplus or sandals for
+marching in, as boots hurt my feet.
+
+
+JULY 8th.--A long tedious march of nearly fifteen miles to Mansera, put
+down in the guide as a level plain road, but having a good many ups and
+downs. One of my sandals broke, and I was obliged to ride in the dandy
+about half way. Some difficulty occurred in getting my baggage off as
+the Coolies did not come. Left my boy to manage it, he came in about
+noon with two ponies, I shall not pay for them yet, and then they will
+come on with me. A warmer day than yesterday. Mountains rising up in
+front, which I shall begin to ascend to-morrow if I make the whole march
+of twenty miles. Snow visible above all. The real work of the trip will
+now soon commence. The marches hitherto have been child's play compared
+with those to come. Mansera is only a native village, but there is a Dâk
+Bungalow, in which I am now. Met Captain Ellis, of the 4th Hussars,
+returning from Kashmir, and had a talk with him. There are _two_ routes
+open to me, he advises the one which yesterday I was warned against by
+the other fellows. They have been over both roads, yet do not agree as
+to which is the best. Ellis was disappointed with Kashmir, but he has
+only been a few months in India, and has not yet forgotten England, for
+I expect that Kashmir after all, is only so very pleasant, by contrast
+with the plains of India.
+
+
+JULY 9th.--Started an hour before sunrise and did the whole march to
+Ghuri, distance nineteen miles. Walked the greater part of the way in
+sandals and socks, which I find the most comfortable way of getting on.
+First half of the march along the level to the foot of the hill, then an
+undulating road through a pine forest, the latter half easy walking
+owing to the ground being covered with fallen fir leaves which made it
+as soft as a carpet. A fine view from the top of hill, looking down to
+Ghuri. The river Ghuri, a mountain torrent seen for a long distance
+rushing with a great roar over its rocky bed, bounded on each side by
+high hills, and above by mountains covered with snow, from the melting
+of which it arises. The water is consequently icy cold, and my tub at
+the end of the march was highly invigorating. Put up at the Dâk
+Bungalow, a neat, clean, furnished building, standing on the right bank
+of the river, which is crossed just in front by a very fair suspension
+bridge. I can trace my route for to-morrow, for several miles, and I
+look at it with dismay as it ascends a terribly steep hill. There are
+two other men in the Bungalow, but I do not know who they are. I have
+not mentioned my equipment. It is so simple that a few lines will tell
+all. Two suits of old clothes, three flannel shirts, two warm under
+flannels, two pair of boots, "a light pair and a heavy pair of
+ammunitions," socks, handkerchiefs, &c., Mackintosh, warm bedding, a
+small tent called a "shildaree," a two-rolled ridge tent, about eight
+feet square, a dressing bag containing toilet requisites, a metal basin,
+salted tongues and humps, potatoes, tea, sugar, flour, mustard, &c., one
+bottle of brandy, to be reserved for medicinal use, a portable charpoy
+or bedstead, cane stool, a little crockery, knives and forks, cooking
+utensils, brass drinking cup for every purpose, a gingham umbrella with
+white cover, a dandy (previously described), solar topee, and light cap,
+tobacco, soap, and candles, a kookery, a stout alpen stock, a pass into
+Kashmir, and bag of money, and "voilà tout." For carrying this baggage,
+I require two mules, and two Coolies, or when mules are not procurable,
+seven Coolies. Four other Coolies man my dandy, and these men are going
+all the way with me. Each Coolie receives four annas, or sixpence a day,
+and a mule costs eight annas. Stopped under a "pepel tree" and sent some
+Coolies up it for the fruit, which was ripe. This tree is the Indian
+fig, and the fruit is very small, not larger than marbles; and without
+much flavor. The river is running a few yards from me, with a sound as
+of the surf on a rocky beach. I hope ere long to hear the same pleasant
+music seated on the cliffs of the south coast of Guernsey. Now my time
+in India is drawing to a close, I begin to think that it has not been
+altogether wasted, though I would not prolong it a day. All I have seen
+and done within a period of three years (so much falls to the lot of few
+men to perform) must have had some effect upon my mind; at any rate,
+when safe at home again, I shall have much to talk of, many experiences
+to relate. My dog Silly who accompanies me, was awfully done up towards
+the end of the march. At last we came to a running stream in which he
+laid down and was much refreshed, before that his panting had become
+gasping though he kept up with us bravely, only lying down for a moment
+when we came to a little bit of shade--not often met with, the last
+three or four miles. For the last day or two, I have been almost
+continually in a cool, gentle perspiration, this is a great contrast to
+my state when at Peshawur, where my skin was always as dry as a bone,
+and I look upon that as a healthy symptom, I have had no headache since
+I left Bugnostan.
+
+
+JULY 10th.--To Mozufferabad nine miles, but apparently much more, such a
+bad fatiguing march. I got away with the first grey of the dawn and
+after a mile's tramp began the ascent of the Doabbuller pass, three and
+a half miles long and very steep, so steep that I could often touch the
+ground with my hands without stooping much. This was terribly exhausting
+and I had to make many halts to recover my breath. Then began a rough
+descent along the side of a mountain torrent and afterwards over its
+bed, which is a narrow gorge between high hills. This walking was very
+rough and difficult; the path being covered with great stones and often
+undistinguishable. Indeed it was no path at all, only the ground
+occasionally a little trodden. Through the stream, backwards and
+forwards _innumerable_ times we went. I found that my feet, though naked
+except where covered by the straps of the sandals, were able to take
+care of themselves, and avoid contusion almost without the help of my
+eyes. Then I came to a large and rapid river called the Kishun-gunga
+crossed by a rope bridge. Let me describe the bridge. Three or four
+leather ropes about one inch in diameter tied into a bundle to walk
+upon, three feet above this, a couple of ropes, two feet apart, the
+upper ropes connected to the lower one at intervals of four or five
+yards by stakes. This formed a V shape, and you walk on the point of the
+V and hold on by the two sides. The breadth of the river is sixty yards,
+and the bridge which is high above the water forms a considerable curve.
+The description of the bridge is easy enough, but how shall I describe
+my feelings, when I had gone a few yards and found myself poised in
+mid-air like a spider on a web, oscillating, swaying backwards and
+forwards over a foaming and roaring torrent, the rush of the water if I
+looked at my feet, made me feel as if I was being violently carried in
+the opposite direction; the bridge swayed and jumped with the weight of
+half a dozen natives coming from the opposite side whom I had to pass,
+the whole thing seemed so weak and the danger so terrible that I turned
+giddy, lost my head, and cried out to be held. A firm hand at once
+grasped me behind and another in front. I shut my eyes and so proceeded
+a few yards. Then those dreadful men had to be passed. Imagine meeting
+a man on a rope fifty feet above a torrent and requiring him to "give
+you the wall." However they were passed by a mysterious interlacing of
+feet; and when half way over I regained confidence, and bid the men
+"chando" or release me, and so gained the opposite bank, where I sat
+down and roared with laughter at my "boy" who was then coming over, and
+who evidently was much more affected than I was. However he arrived
+safely with his black face _pale_, dripping with perspiration and saying
+he was sick. What was most amusing was to see him hooking his legs one
+in front of the other on his way over, but I dare say I was equally
+laughable to anyone on terra firma. He told me afterwards "water all go
+down, and I go up and get sick and giddy." Another two miles over a low
+ridge and I got to Mozufferabad and put up at the Barahduree provided by
+the Maharajah for the convenience of English travellers free of charge,
+for we are now in Kashmerian territory. This is an unfurnished bungalow
+built of mud and pine logs, and there is one at every stage. This saves
+the trouble of pitching a tent, and is of course much better in wet
+weather. I have not had a drop of rain though yet. Met Watson, of Fane's
+Horse, at the bungalow going back to Peshawur. Got Incis's Guide from
+him for the day, and made some notes at the other end of this book.
+There is a picturesque fort on this bank of the river commanding the
+bridge, built by the Pathans, apparently of bright red stone or brick.
+It was interesting to see mules and ponies swimming across the stream.
+Holding on by the tail of each was a man supported by two inflated
+Mussaks or goat skins which are ordinarily used by the Bheisties for
+carrying water. Though both man and horse struck out vigorously they
+were carried down many hundred yards before reaching the opposite side.
+To look at them in the foam and rush of the river, and see their
+impetuous career down the current, they appeared to be doomed to certain
+destruction. I saw about twenty cross in this way. I walked the whole
+of this march, though often tired, as I preferred trusting my own legs
+to being carried in the dandy over such bad ground. Curran,
+Assistant-Surgeon, 88th Connaught Rangers, is one march in front of me.
+He has left his pony here till he returns. I suppose the last march was
+too much for him. I am very glad I did not bring my horse with me; I was
+strongly advised to do so, but I am afraid advice has not much weight
+with me; in this instance anyhow, my own opinion has proved the best.
+All the men I meet coming back have horses with them, but they are
+nearly all shoeless, lame and sick, and have not been ridden for weeks.
+
+
+JULY 11th.--Marched on Hultian, distant seventeen miles. Much better
+road than yesterday, but many ups and downs and short rough bits.
+Started two hours before sunrise, by the light of the moon. The road
+soon reached the right bank of the Jhelum and continued the whole
+distance alongside of that river. It is a rapid river apparently not so
+deep and often not so wide as the Kishun-gunga, its bed strewn with huge
+boulders over which the water breaks in great waves of foam. It runs in
+a narrow rocky channel the precipitous sides of which are a great
+height. How many ages must it have taken to cut this channel in the
+solid rock? The valley is bounded by high hills, very narrow, the road
+so bare of trees, that the latter half of the march became hot and
+wearying, so I had recourse to the dandy for four or five miles. But it
+was rare gymnastic exercise as swinging from my pole I had to dodge the
+great stones on either side of me and keep a sharp look out to avoid
+hard bumps. My dog was again very much fatigued. His tail is a good
+token of his state, for when fresh it is stiff along his back, and
+gradually drops as he goes along until he is quite exhausted, when it
+hangs straight down. Stopped at a Barahduree (not so good a one as the
+last) a few feet above the Jhelum in which I bathed. There is a rope
+bridge opposite, a much older one than the other I crossed, but not more
+than half as long, and not high above the water, some of the ropes are
+broken, and it seems very shaky. However, I must cross it to-morrow and
+get into the Murree road, which runs parallel to this one, on the other
+bank, and is on the shady side and much cooler. It has been very hot all
+day. The reason I could not come the direct road from Murree is because
+the ferry over the Jhelum lower down, was recently carried away and
+twenty-six natives drowned. Sir G. Larpent's (of the 88th) baggage was
+in the boat, and he lost it all. He had not crossed and had to go back
+to Murree minus everything including servants. There is excellent
+Mahseer fishing in this river, the fish attain the enormous size of
+80lbs. weight and afford exciting sport; but I have no tackle with me,
+and did not even bring a gun, as I thought I should be too seedy to do
+anything but moon about. I did not then know the great exertion
+necessary to reach Kashmir, an exertion which any man with bodily
+infirmity would hardly venture on without first providing himself with
+an undertaker. Upon making enquiries I find that all the Coolies and
+supplies on the other road, have been sent over to this side, so I must
+keep to it and not cross as I intended. In the evening a slim young
+native came to me and offered to swim across the river for Bakhshish, "a
+present." I promised it to him, and he ran a quarter of a mile up, and
+plunged into the torrent, landing on the opposite side a little below
+the bungalow. He then went up the river again, and swam down to this
+side, no mean feat in turbulent water running as it did with tremendous
+velocity. I gave him eight annas for it.
+
+
+JULY 12th, "Sunday."--In the middle of last night a storm came on, I was
+sleeping in the open air, and the lightning awoke me, it was beginning
+to rain, and I had to move into the house. It was broad daylight when I
+was called, and I felt disinclined to proceed. I said it would rain, and
+I would halt. My boy said, "No Sir, no rain." I said the sun would come
+out and it would be burning hot. He said, "No Sir, no sun." I felt it
+was useless continuing the argument, so I got up and marched to Kunda,
+eighteen miles, walking all the way. A hard march, nothing but steep
+rough ascents, and corresponding descents, still keeping along the
+river, but two or three hundred feet above it. My Coolies pointed out to
+me a herd of "chiken" on a very high hill, at least four miles away. I
+saw nothing, for even big trees at that distance were diminished to
+very small objects, but did not dispute with them. They say uncivilized
+man has wonderful sight, and if deer were there, he certainly has far
+higher powers of vision even, than I had been led to expect. Met three
+men leaving Kashmir, and exchanged remarks with them. Don't know who
+they were. Caught sight of my destination from the top of one hill, and
+was delighted to see it was quite close to me. But alas! several weary
+miles of up and down and in and out had to be traversed before it could
+be reached. This has several times happened to me, and I shall in future
+put no faith in appearances. The Barahduree here is a two storied one,
+standing I should think five hundred feet above the river, which is
+here confined in a very narrow channel. I took the upper room which has
+three sides and a roof, there being no wall facing the river, over which
+there is a fine and rather extended view, the more distant mountains
+being crowned with pine forests. Had neither sun nor rain while
+marching, but soon afterwards the sun shone out, though heavy and
+threatening clouds continued to hang about the horizon. As I write this
+I hear the first roll of thunder, there will be another storm to-night.
+The Maharajah's officials come to me at every stage to enquire my wants
+and provide for the same. Other natives also come with an insane
+request,--a medical prescription for a sick Bhai (or brother) who
+always has fever, and is at a great distance. What possible use a
+prescription could be to them I cannot decide. The storm came up just
+before dinner, 6 p.m., and was rather sharp but soon over. I came up the
+valley of the Jhelum, and I watched its course for some time before it
+arrived. It subsequently struck the edge of the house and I was all
+right; had it come down the valley which runs at right angles to the
+Jhelum just opposite here I should have been blown out. I again noticed
+that to which my attention has often been directed, viz.: that when in
+or near the storm clouds, the thunder is of quite a different character
+to that heard below. It is a continuous low muttering growl without any
+claps or peals. I have stood in the storm cloud at Sinchal, 9,000 feet
+high, with the lightning originating around me and affording the
+sublimest spectacle of dazzling brilliancy, and varying in colour from
+the purest white light to delicious rose and blue tints. I have seen it
+intensified and focussed as it were within a few feet of me, and from
+this centre angled lines and balls of fire like strings of beads
+radiated in all directions. Yet the thunder which in the plains was
+heard pealing and roaring its loudest, was up there barely audible.
+
+
+JULY 13th.--From Kunda to Kuthin twelve miles of hard toiling over a
+similar road to that of the last march, finishing with a long, steep,
+and very rough ascent to the high plateau on which Kuthin stands. On the
+top of this I took to my dandy and was carried a mile along the level to
+the Barahduree, where I slept upon the charpoy which is provided at
+every bungalow for the weary travellers to rest upon pending the arrival
+of his baggage. These plateaus or table lands exist at intervals all the
+way up the valley, sometimes on one side sometimes on the other and
+occasionally on both the river in the middle. They are quite flat, very
+small, and highly productive, and vary from fifty to three or four
+hundred feet in height, above the river. The valley which widens where
+they exist, is narrowed again at either extremity. I can only account
+for their formation by supposing that at a former time, a chain of lakes
+existed, of which they are the beds, and that the water subsequently
+burst through and formed the channel of the present Jhelum, leaving
+these beds dry as we now see them. Came across a number of large tailed
+butterflies of a lovely green and blue metallic lustre. Secured an
+un-injured specimen, and for want of a better place stuck it inside my
+topee, where I expect to carry it safely until my return to Peshawur.
+Another storm came on earlier than yesterday. I have been very lucky
+hitherto, not having had a drop of rain while marching. This morning was
+cloudy till within a mile or two of Kuthin when the sun shone and made
+the last ascent doubly trying. This is a very small village (at Kunda
+there was only one hut) but there is a mud fort with bastions at each
+corner but no guns. The walls are loop-holed for musketry, but there
+does not seem to be any garrison. On making enquiries, I find there is a
+garrison of seven men. It is getting dusk and mosquitoes are coming out
+by hundreds, they have not annoyed me before, but I think I must use my
+net to-night. I lie on my bed after dinner smoking with a lighted candle
+by my side. A hornet flies in and settles on my hand, then a large
+beetle comes with a buzz and a thud against me, making me start. Sundry
+moths, small flies, and beetles, are playing innocently round the flame.
+In half an hour I shall be able to make a fair entomological collection
+but as I neither (Ha! I've killed the hornet) desire them in my hat
+dead, nor in my bed alive, I must put out the light, give up writing,
+and smoke in darkness.
+
+
+JULY 14th.--To Shadera, twelve miles walked all the way. The road worse
+than ever, and for the last mile actually dangerous, as it passed along
+the edge of a deep precipice, and was only a foot wide and considerably
+out of the horizontal, so that a single false step would have been
+fatal. Road continued same character all the way along, though much
+above the tortuous and noisy Jhelum, and its ups and downs were the
+roughest, longest, and most trying, I have yet experienced. I am pleased
+to know that the remaining two marches will be, in the words of my
+Coolies over "uch'-cha rasta," a good road. It remained cloudy and
+threatening the greater part of the way, and a little rain fell, but
+eventually the sun shone, though great masses of "cumuli" continue to
+hang about. This is a small village completely shut in by three huge
+hills standing very close together. Between the sides of the two in
+front, the summit of a fourth is visible, a magnificent towering
+mountain, covered with a dense pine forest. I have not seen the snows
+since I crossed the Doobbullee pass, as we have been ascending the
+valley of the Jhelum ever since, and the view is confined by its lofty
+sides. I have eaten my last loaf for breakfast this morning, and now one
+of the greatest privations of the journey will begin. No bread, nothing
+but flour and water made into a kind of pancake, which the natives call
+"chepattie." I have not tasted fresh meat since I left Abbottabad, but
+that one can do very well without. I live upon fowls, eggs, milk, butter
+and rice, with a tongue or hump, cooked when necessary. Two or three
+miles from Kuthai, we passed a very pretty waterfall. The slender stream
+fell over a smooth perpendicular rock, of a rich brown colour, 100 feet
+high, like a thread of silver. Both sides of the gorge covered with a
+variety of beautifully green trees, shrubs and ferns, altogether
+constituting a delightful picture, the tints mingled so harmoniously,
+yet with strong contrasts. Stopped at the Barahduree as usual, this one
+surrounded with wild fig, plum, peach, pomegranate, and mulberry trees.
+The mulberries only ripe, and like all wild fruit, small and
+comparatively tasteless.
+
+
+JULY 15th.--Started as soon as it was light for Gingle, fourteen miles
+distant. Road greatly improved, hilly of course, but tolerably smooth so
+that one could get on without clambering. About half way passed Dorie on
+the left bank of the river, where there is another fort and a strong
+rope bridge, it is one of the halts on the Murree road, farther on came
+to an old ruin, four thick walls perforated by arches enclosing an open
+square in the middle of two of the sides, large masses of masonry formed
+archways or entrances. It is built of the rough stones and boulders with
+which the surface of the ground is covered, yet the arches are of very
+good shape. On the opposite bank of the Jhelum there are forests of
+Deodar, but though they grow down to the waters edge, there is not one
+on this side. (Larix Deodora, called by the Hindoos, "the God Tree" is a
+stately pine, growing to a great height, and of a very gradual and
+elegant taper. Its foliage is of the darkest green colour, and it gives
+the mountains a very sombre appearance.) The hills have become much more
+rugged and abrupt. I know of no single condition which gives a scene so
+great an aspect of wildness and desolation, as dead fir trees. There
+they stand on the most barren and inaccessible places, rearing their
+gaunt and whitened forms erect as ever, and though lifeless yet not
+decayed. Seared and blasted by a thousand storms, they stand stern and
+silent, ghostlike and immoveable, scorning the elements. No wind murmurs
+pleasantly through their dead and shrunken branches, the howling tempest
+alone can make them speak, and then with wild straining shriek and harsh
+rattle, they do battle with the whirlwind. It was getting hot and I was
+thinking of my dandy, when a storm passed over with heavy rain. This was
+a mitigated evil (if an evil at all for my bed remained dry, and a wet
+bed is the worst result of a shower) as it rendered walking cool and
+pleasant. It cleared up again, and I rode the last half mile. The
+cleanest and best bungalow here I have been in since I left Ghuri. The
+view down the valley is extremely pretty, hills rising one above the
+other, but shut in on all other sides by high mountains. Gingle, which
+is only one or two huts, stands on a small plateau a quarter of a mile
+long by one hundred and fifty yards wide, fifty feet above the Jhelum.
+The ground is laid out in paddy fields irrigated by a stream of the
+coolest and purest water. It is a great satisfaction to be able to drink
+water freely without fear. In the plains of India the water is so
+contaminated as to be almost poisonous, and I do not think that previous
+to this march I had drank a gallon of it since I landed in Calcutta.
+
+
+JULY 16th.--Left Gingle with the earliest streak of dawn for Baramula,
+an eighteen mile march. Road very much more level, never ascending high
+above the river whose erratic course we continued to follow. Passed
+through groves of hazel overrun by wild vines, but both grapes and nuts
+as yet green. The plateaus become gradually larger and almost
+continuous, and the hills separated and diminished in size, those on the
+right being covered with the lank deodar, while those on the left
+possessed only a bright green mantle of grass, far away in front they
+altogether ended, and the open sky above the valley was alone visible.
+And now an unusual occurrence presented itself. We were following the
+stream upwards towards its source, yet at every mile it increased in
+width and became more placid, till at length its surface was unbroken,
+and it assumed the form of a magnificent river, wider than the Thames at
+Richmond. The hills continued provokingly to overlap one another as
+though anxious to shut in and hide the happy valley from sight. But at
+length I discerned a far distant white cloud which I guessed betokened
+the summit of a mountain, and a few yards further revealed a faint
+glistening opaque line which the inexperienced eye would have certainly
+taken for a portion of the cloud, but which could not be mistaken by one
+who had before seen the snows. About half a mile from Buramula we
+obtain the first view of the Vale of Kashmir, but not an extensive one,
+as it is obstructed on either side by low hills. However, what is seen
+is very pretty. A large level plain traversed by a broad smooth river
+which has now lost its tortuous zig-zag course and bounded by the
+everlasting snows covering the main backbone of the Himalayas. At the
+head of the valley stands the quaint looking town of Baramula surrounded
+by hills on all sides but one, embowered in trees and intersected by the
+Jhelum, across which there is a good wooden bridge. The houses have
+mostly an upper story, and are built of wood with gabled roofs. The
+streets are narrow and roughly paved, and I regret to say are not more
+pleasant to the nostrils than are those of other Indian towns. The
+bridge built of deodar wood, beams of which are driven into the bed of
+the river, and then others laid horizontally upon them, each row at
+right angles to and projecting beyond the layer beneath, till a
+sufficient height has been reached, six of these and two stone piers
+form the buttresses of the bridge and a broad pathway of planks connects
+them. The march was a fatiguing one on account of its length, and I used
+the dandy freely. I shall however discard it altogether for the future.
+I went to the Barahduree but found it occupied by a man whose name I was
+told was "----," had been there five days. His Coolies had taken
+possession of all the rooms, and though I was very angry and inclined to
+turn them out, I thought my tent would be preferable to a room just
+vacated by the uncleanly native, so I went to an orchard close by,
+surrounded by a row of fine poplars, and patiently awaited the arrival
+of my baggage which was a long time coming. The gate was guarded by the
+Maharajah's sepoys who endeavoured to prevent my entrance. The Thikadar
+told me he had no authority for this, but had done it "Zubbur-dustee."
+They also say that the occupant of the Barahduree has just come from
+England. He is a being shrouded in mystery, and I shall endeavour to
+unravel it. My first step will be to report the occurrence to the
+officials at S---- when I get there. I took a swim in the Jhelum, whose
+course I have now followed for eighty-four crooked miles, and on whose
+bosom I shall to-morrow continue my journey.
+
+
+JULY 17th.--By boat up the river, the day so bright, the view so
+glorious, the breeze so balmy and delicious, and the motion so gentle
+and pleasant, that lying on my bed I devote myself to lazy listlessness,
+to a perfect sense of the "dolce far niente" and can hardly prevail on
+myself to disturb my tranquillity by writing these few notes. The
+contrast to my thirteen heavy marches is so great that I am content to
+remain for the present without thought or action, enjoying absolute
+rest. Evening--We halt at Sopoor, and now let me endeavour to continue
+the diary. Got up at seven this morning and sent for a boat, one of the
+larger kind about thirty feet long, and six feet broad in the middle,
+the centre portion covered with an awning made of grass matting. The
+crew consisting of an entire family, from the elderly parents to quite
+young children--9 in all. I was towed up the still widening river by all
+of them in turns, one wee girl not three feet high being most energetic,
+though I should think of little real service. Boat flat bottomed, and
+alike at both ends, they use paddles instead of oars. But the scene! I
+am unable now to do justice to it, so I will only give the outlines to
+be elaborated hereafter. Splendid river--verdant plain covered with many
+varieties of trees, poplar and chenar or tulip tree the most
+conspicuous, extending as far as the eye can reach and enclosed by lofty
+snow capped mountains, on which rest the clouds of heaven. Bright blue
+King-fishers darting like flashes of light or hovering hawk-like before
+the plunge after fish and the many hued dragon flies upon the water
+weeds. Among the several varieties of the weeds, I noticed a great
+quantity of "Anacharis." Got fresh mutton and apple-pie for dinner.
+Swarms of very minute flies came to the candle dancing their dance of
+death. Many thousands were destroyed, and their bodies darkened the
+board which serves me for a table. Sopoor like Baramula, river bridged,
+and grass growing on the roofs of the houses.
+
+
+JULY 18th.--In the night we moved on, and at five in the morning I was
+awoke at the foot of Shukuroodeen Hill, 700 feet high, which I intended
+to ascend, and get a _coup d'oeil_ of the valley. Instead of being on a
+river, the water now spread out into a great lake (Lake Wulloor) the
+largest in Kashmir. Got up and began to ascend the hill, but when half
+way up, the strap of one of my sandals gave way, and as I could not
+mend it, I was obliged to descend; however, I got an extensive view of
+the valley lying spread out at my feet, the lake occupying a great
+portion of the view. Went on to Alsoo (about three hours) from whence I
+shall march to Lalpore the other side of a range of high hills which
+rise very near the water. We are thirty miles from Baramula. The lake is
+in many parts covered with a carpet of elegant water weeds which makes
+it look like a green meadow, among them the Singara or water nut, a
+curiously growing plant which bears spiny pods enclosing a soft
+delicately flavoured kernel--heart-shaped, as big as a filbert.
+Mosquitoes by thousands, and very annoying, red and distended with their
+crimson feast. Alsoo--a rather uninteresting place, grand mountains.
+Huramuk to the East, and great expanse of water.
+
+
+JULY 19th, Sunday.--On the march again to Lalpore, twelve miles. I left
+my heavy baggage and dandy in the boat (which here awaits my return) and
+only took my tent and bedding with one week's stores, the whole only
+four coolie loads, and now began my first taste of real mountain work.
+For nearly four hours I was ascending the steep range which rises above
+Alsoo, and hard toiling it was. Half way up we met some men with
+butter-milk, of which my boy made me drink a quantity, saying it would
+"keep master cool." As we rose--the vale spread out magnificently
+beneath us, and the large lake was seen to full advantage shining under
+the morning sun, which appeared from behind a grand snow-clad mountain.
+Near the top we came to the prettiest stream I have seen, its banks
+covered with maiden hair and other ferns, fruit trees and firs, and its
+surface skimmed by gorgeous flies. The summit gained, I was well
+rewarded by a view of the whole of the Solab an off-shoot of the main
+valley. A bright gem in a dark setting of deodar covered mountains,
+spurs from which radiated into the valley so fair and verdant with its
+many villages, its meandering streams, and frequent orchards, the air
+laden with the perfume of many flowers. My Bheisties even exclaimed
+"bahut ach chtu." I gazed entranced. The descent was long but a much
+better path. Going down I came to wild raspberries which I must say were
+as large and well flavoured as any garden grown ones, there was also a
+small yellow plum which was very nice. Arrived at Lalpore the principal
+village, I encamped under a large walnut tree (very fine trees and very
+common) covered with its nuts. This valley abounds with bears, I was
+certainly cooler after taking the butter-milk, but I attributed it to
+the ascent being less steep and the path shady. Saw a magnificent
+butterfly of a specimen I did not recognise; attempted to catch it, but
+like many other desirable objects in this world, it eluded my grasp at
+the very moment I thought I had secured it. Got a fine one of a commoner
+sort which I placed in my hat, where the other remains uninjured.
+
+
+JULY 20th.--I halt at Salpore, awaiting the arrival of my Sirdar dandy
+coolie, an intelligent, useful, Kashmiree man, whom I engaged to
+continue with me as a servant at Baramula, and gave him four days leave
+to visit his home, arranging that he should rejoin me here. I lie under
+the shade of the wide spreading walnut trees, inhaling the fragrant
+breeze, and enjoying perfect quietude and repose. All is so grand and
+peaceful, that my heart swells with holy thoughts of praise and
+gratitude to the Almighty Creator, and while gazing on one of the
+fairest portions of his great work I find myself unconsciously repeating
+the glorious psalm "O come let us sing unto the Lord." It would indeed
+be a hard heart and a dull spirit that did not rejoice in the scene, and
+acknowledge the power and magnificence of its maker. I see around me
+this garden of Kashmir where every tree bears fruit for the use of man,
+and every shrub, bright flowers for his enjoyment. Enclosed and guarded
+by "the strength of the hills" (a noble sentence which never never
+before so forcibly impressed me) and covered by the purest of blue
+skies. All nature seems to say to me "To-day if ye hear his voice,
+harden not your hearts," and surely the "still small voice" is speaking,
+and can be heard by those who will heed it, and have the heart to feel
+and the soul to rejoice in the strength of their salvation. The memory
+of the beautiful duett in "Haydn's Creation," when newly made Adam and
+Eve unite in praising God and extolling his wonderful works comes
+freshly before me. Now, something akin to this must have crossed the
+mental vision of the grand old Maestro when he wrote; and its calm
+glorious music well accords with my present state of mind.
+
+
+JULY 21st.--A pleasant stroll of ten miles before breakfast to
+Koomerial along the level valley, through shady groves of apple, pear,
+green-gage, peach, and mulberry trees, and forests of cherry trees
+drooping with the weight of their golden blushing fruit. I have not seen
+any vines in the Solab. Koomerial is a very small place, and I had a
+little difficulty in getting supplies. I ought to have gone three miles
+further to a large village; but I'll go there to-morrow, and then return
+to Alsoo in two marches. A native came to me with the toothache, begging
+assistance, but the tooth required extracting and I could do nothing for
+him. Pitched under a walnut tope--the climate delicious, like a warm
+English summer, but it is rather hot in my small tent in the middle of
+the day; so I have my Charpoy put outside in the shade and lie there
+smoking my pipe and thinking. I have spoken of the beauties and
+pleasures of the Solab, but I must not omit mention of its annoyances,
+flies and mosquitoes, by day the flies abound and cause much irritation
+to any exposed part of the body. I do hate tame flies, flies that though
+driven away twenty times elude capture, and will pertinaciously return
+to the same spot--say your nose--until one is driven nearly mad with
+vexation. At dusk the flies return to roost, and then myriads of
+mosquitoes emerge from their hiding places, and make night hideous with
+their monotonous hum and blood-thirsty propensities. I do not find
+chepatties so bad as I expected, indeed I rather like them, but then my
+boy makes them excellently well, using soda in their composition. The
+process of manufacture is not pleasant--the flour is made into a paste,
+and then flattened and consolidated by being thrown backwards and
+forwards from one hand to the other, though one may avoid seeing this,
+it is difficult to escape hearing the pit-pat of the soft dough as it
+passes rapidly between the Khitmutgars extended, and I fear not always
+clean fingers, it is then toasted, brought in hot, and you may eat it
+dirt and all. But travellers must not be too particular, and so long as
+your food is wholesome, eat and be thankful. But here comes my dinner,
+with the chepatties I have just seen prepared, and which sight suggested
+the foregoing lines. Chicken for breakfast, chicken for dinner, chicken
+yesterday, chicken to-morrow, _toujours_ chicken, sometimes curried,
+sometimes roasted, torn asunder and made into soup, stew or cutlets, or
+with extended wing forming the elegant spatchcock, it is still chicken;
+the greatest and rarest change being that it is occasionally rather
+tender. I have had chicken soup and roast fowl for dinner, the chicken
+in the soup as stringy as hemp, the fowl as tough as my sandal, and with
+so large a liver that I doubted whether the bird had not met with a
+violent death. I like fowl's liver, it is my one _bonne bouche_ during
+the day, but these startled me, and after straining my teeth on the
+carcase, I gladly swallow the soft mouthful. Oh! English readers, you
+who have never wandered far from your native shores and who esteem
+chickens a luxury to put on your supper table at your festive
+gatherings, come to India and surfeit on your dainties, you will see it
+calmly collecting its daily food unsuspicious of danger, then comes the
+rush and loud clacking as it flies pursued by the ferocious native,
+ending with cries of despair and the fluttering and hoarse gurgle of its
+death throes, in half an hour Murghi will be placed before you hot and
+tempting to the eye but hard as nails to the touch; they are cheap in
+this part of the world. I pay one anna (or three halfpence) for a
+chicken, or two annas for a full grown fowl.
+
+
+JULY 22nd.--A little march of three miles to Koopwaddie. I am glad I
+came here for one or two reasons. In the first place the walk afforded
+me a nearer and finer view of the head of the valley, surmounted by its
+high and rugged snow peaks; and secondly, I find I can return from here
+to Sopoor in two marches instead of going back over the old road. From
+Sopoor I shall boat to Alsoo. The range which at Lalpore was on the
+further side of the valley has gradually approached the other hills
+until now they are only a quarter of a mile apart, and are connected by
+short low spurs which I crossed this morning. My road to-morrow will be
+behind the first mentioned range, where another portion of the valley
+lies. The valley is in fact fork-shaped, intersected by a mountainous
+ridge which runs from its lower end for about fifteen miles. The two
+portions then unite and form one valley up to the snows, and Koopwaddie
+is situated at their junction. The Solab proper is only the eastern arm
+which is formed into a _cul de sac_ by the mountains, and in which
+Lalpore stands.
+
+
+JULY 23rd.--To Chargle ten miles down the western fork of a valley
+rough and uncultivated by comparison with the Solab. Over a low range of
+hills with a very steep descent to Chargle standing on the left bank of
+the Pohroo river. Not finding a good place on that side I forded the
+river, which is not more than two feet deep, and encamped on smooth
+green sward under a walnut tope on the other bank. Fine view from the
+top of the hill of the level valley through which the Pohroo runs, with
+the broad Jhelum shining like silver in the distance. This plain is laid
+out in open fields, and lacks trees except round the numerous villages.
+The surrounding hills too are comparatively bare, and their summits are
+to-day obscured by the low-lying clouds.
+
+
+JULY 24th.--A hot and uncomfortable walk of twelve miles on the exposed
+and uninteresting road to Sopoor. There were but few trees to afford any
+shade, but there were mulberries bearing ripe fruit, under which you
+know it is impossible to sit down. From Sopoor to Alsoo (sixteen miles)
+by boat, slowly driving all day through the tangled weeds and water
+lilies. At Soopoor I waited for my boy to get what he wanted for my
+breakfast (which he would prepare on board) and while waiting, a
+procession of natives came with bells and flags, and something
+surrounded by curtains and carried under a canopy, but I could not see
+what it was. It was being fanned vigorously by several men and was no
+doubt very holy. A large number of men (Mahometans) followed, shouting
+loudly when the bells were rung, and some of them chanted a slow but not
+unpleasing melody. They were praying for rain which is rare in this
+country, and which is now required for the crops. My boy returned
+bringing with him to my joy a fore quarter of mutton. Stopped at
+Shukuroodeen for the evening, the wind being too strong to proceed.
+Those flat bottomed boats with their large heavy awnings are very
+cranky.
+
+
+JULY 25th.--Started early for Alsoo. Found my old boat where I had left
+it, but brought my baggage on board of this one, which I mean to keep
+to, as the boatman is a much more useful fellow than the other man. He
+acts as a servant, knows all the places I am going to, including
+Ummernath, and has many excellent characters from those who have
+employed him. There was such a scene when my intentions were made known
+to the other crew, at first with tears and folded hands they
+supplicated, but when that proved useless they took to cursing and
+gesticulating, which they continued as their boat moved away and so long
+as they were within hearing, screaming across the water, making faces,
+and shaking their fists aloft; the old man was especially violent, it
+was very laughable. My present crew consists of the man I have
+mentioned, three good looking young woman, one of whom has the hooping
+cough, and a variety of children I have not yet made out the different
+relations to each other. There was lightning and some heavy rain last
+night (the result no doubt of yesterday's ceremony) and the sky is still
+gloomy and overcast. On from Alsoo after Chota Hazree or first breakfast
+to Lunka, a small island, which is only fifty yards square, is thickly
+covered with pine trees, with trailing grape vines clinging around their
+boughs, on it stands an old ruin, and fallen pillars and carved stones
+litter the ground. From a distance it looked very lovely, floating as
+it were on the bosom of the open waters, but as we neared it an
+unpleasant odour became perceptible, rapidly increasing to a horrid
+stench. This proceeded from a colony of natives who were in temporary
+habitation of the island, and were engaged in catching and drying the
+fish with which the lake abounds. I landed however, but was soon forced
+to beat a rapid retreat. Such a mass of all kinds of filth crowded in so
+small a space, I have never before witnessed. Man is ever the plague
+spot of the world, where he is not, all is peace, and beauty, with his
+presence comes contamination and discord. Saw many a whistling seal in
+one part of the lake. The water soon became contracted into a narrow
+channel, with a low bank on either side, after travelling a few miles
+more we reached the broad Jhelum above its entrance into the lake.
+Remained for the night at Hajun.
+
+
+JULY 26th, Sunday.--Moved on in the morning to Manusbul, a small lake
+connected with the river by a canal. This lake is about three miles long
+and one mile wide, it is very deep in the middle, and said by the
+natives to be unfathomable. In one of the Hindoo Legends we are told a
+story of a holy man who spent all his life endeavouring to make a rope
+long enough to reach to the bottom, and failing, at length threw
+himself in and was never seen again. My boatman to give me an idea of
+its depth, dropped in white pebbles which could be seen for a long time
+sinking in the clear green water, until they gradually disappeared from
+sight. I longed to take a plunge into the cool fluid, and Ungoo
+evidently read my wish in my looks, for he proposed that I should gussul
+or bathe. The presence of three women however proved too much for my
+modesty, and I refrained, although I have no doubt that had I not done
+so their feelings would not have been in the least outraged. Very
+handsome water lilies (lotus) on the surface of the lake, the flowers
+being of a delicate pink colour with a yellow centre, and as large as
+the crown of a man's hat. At the further extremity, a high hill rises
+from the edge of the water. A stream is artificially conducted along its
+face at a height of about fifty feet, and the surplus water escapes in
+several pretty little cascades, by the side of one of them grow some
+noble chenars. The bottom of the lake around the edges is very uneven,
+and covered with a dense growth of mynophillum spicatum, on which
+planorbus and other molluces graze and tiny fry pick their invisible
+atoms of food. The elegant shape of this plant with its branching and
+finely cut leaves, and the inequalities of the ground remind me of the
+pine-clad hills in miniature. A brilliant king-fisher took the gunwale
+of the boat as the "base of his operations," and I amused myself all the
+morning, by watching him catch fish; when one approached the surface he
+descended with a splash which I imagined would have driven every fish
+far away, emerging quickly and very seldom without a capture, which he
+turned head downwards and swallowed alive and whole, then looked round
+with a laughable air of self-satisfaction. When the fish was a size too
+large to be trifled with, he first polished it off by rapping its head
+on the boards. It is now sunset, and that bird is still feeding, and
+probably the day will end without deciding whether his appetite or his
+capacity is the larger. A native brought me a dish of excellent
+apricots and mulberries--the mulberries especially good, and my garden
+is celebrated for the best peaches in Kashmir.
+
+
+JULY 27th.--Up the Jhelum again, past Sumbul with its deodar bridge
+(similar to the others described with this exception, that the footway
+appears to be built in imitation of the roof of a house sloping on
+either side from a high central ridge, not the best form of bridge I
+have seen, but variety is charming) to the entrance of the Scind river,
+where a chenar stands in the middle of the stream, protected by a square
+block of masonry. Tradition says this tree never grows. Near it is a
+small island over grown with trees. Here we left the Jhelum and pursued
+the course of the Scind which soon contracted into a narrow and rapidly
+flowing river, its water derived from the snows, being very cold. It was
+slow work rowing against the strong current, but we presently emerged
+into a great lake entirely covered with high rushes except where a
+winding channel was cut for the boats, and here progression was slower
+still as the rope had to be abandoned, and the pole called into
+requisition, so that it was nearly dark when we reached Ganderbul.
+Passed a number of men wading in the water up to their necks, and
+spearing the ground with poles armed with a single barbed spike.
+Although this seems an insane way of attempting to catch fish, their
+boat was well laden with a small species of trout, and I saw several
+drawn from the water impaled and wriggling upon the sharp point.
+Sreenuggur seen in the distance at the extremity of a mountainous spur,
+with the Fort and Soloman's Throne, standing upon two elevated rocks.
+Within a few miles of Ganderbul the lake became clear, and presented a
+fine expanse of water, but with so many shallows, that our course was
+very tortuous. Having travelled twenty miles, we are now only five miles
+from Manusbul. Ganderbul stands at the opening of the Scind valley, but
+it was too late to take any observations when I arrived; so I must wait
+until my return.
+
+
+JULY 28th.--A march of nine miles up the valley to Kungan, taking with
+me as before only four coolie loads of baggage; my boatman accompanies
+me. Met Scott, of the 88th, three or four miles from Ganderbul, the
+first European I have seen since the 12th. This is a narrow and
+beautiful valley, down which the Scind river rushes foaming and roaring.
+Its waters are icy cold and its colour also seems to partake of its
+snowy origin, for it is white, not only with foam, but the water itself
+in small quantities is as though it had come out of a milky jug. Grand
+hills stand on either side, and up the valley I occasionally got
+glimpses of high and rugged snow peaks. Several natives came to me with
+different ailments, I gave them rough directions whereby to benefit, but
+what they wanted was a gift of medicine (of which I have none.) They
+fancy every Englishman is an adept in the art of healing, and that
+English physic especially Tyrnhill's Pills, possesses magical powers.
+
+
+JULY 29th.--To Toomoo, six miles, a shorter march than I intended, for
+they told me at Kungan that Toomoo was twelve miles distant. However,
+when I arrived, the temptation to stop was too strong to be resisted. In
+marching one gets very weary about the sixth or seventh mile, but this
+passes off, and you can then go on comfortably for almost any distance,
+provided you resist the first feelings of fatigue, and do not give way
+to it, as I have done to-day. The mountains are now huge towering
+masses, rising thousands of feet above the valley; they have lost all
+smoothness of outline, and their upper portions are bare and rough,
+cragged, and pine clad. Instead of having merely whitened peaks, snow
+fields extend down the sides. The scene is one of wild majestic
+grandeur. What tremendous agonies in past ages must have been employed
+to produce such vast upheavals. One cannot help contemplating with awe
+the possibility of the world again becoming violently rent and shaken
+to its foundations by the forces which though now comparatively inert,
+still exist beneath us and occasionally give sad proof of their
+undiminished power. In the present day the slow but continued action of
+this subterranean power is in some parts perceptible (as in South
+America) and we have no guarantee that it may not suddenly acquire
+increased energy, and overwhelm our fairest lands with a run too
+terrible to be imagined. Stinging nettles abound here, of the tall sort
+that grow so rankly on old earth heaps and in dry ditches. I placed my
+hand among them, delighted to be stung again by English friends; the
+sensation is so far preferable to mosquito bites. Besides it took me
+back to "childhood's happy hours," when with bramble torn breeches and
+urticarious shin, I forced the hedges, apple stealing--I have stolen
+apples to-day for a tart which is now baking--robbed the trees of them
+for they are no man's property. Just above here on the other side of the
+valley is a very perfect crater (of course extinct) for there are now no
+volcanoes in the Himalayas. Its lips are rugged and serrated like the
+teeth of a saw, and form a very perfect circle I cannot tell the depth
+of the basin, but on the further side I can see that the edge rises
+perpendicularly to a considerable height, and at the bottom of it I just
+got a glimpse of a steeply sloping floor. On its exterior are deep
+grooves containing strong blocks, which at this distance appear to show
+by contrast of colour their igneous origin, but I cannot speak
+positively on this point. My Bheistie to whom I gave three days leave to
+visit his family, came in saying he had walked one hundred miles. He
+does not look any the worse for it.
+
+
+JULY 30th.--Another short march of five miles to Soorapra, a small
+village around which stand several enormous hills, half obscured by
+clouds, for it is a thoroughly wet day, drizzling rain having fallen
+ever since my arrival. It is very cool and pleasant, but I have got up
+too far and am now in the rainy region, so to-morrow I shall retrace my
+steps, three or four marches would take me over the Himalayas into
+Ladâk. This would be an interesting trip, but there still remains much
+for me to see in Kashmir, and I have not time to do both. Passed
+another, but smaller and less perfect crater. Some natives brought a
+young black bear, which they had just caught to show me. It was no
+larger than a good-sized dog, but had very long sharp claws; its
+expression was anything but ferocious. A dense pine and walnut forest
+extends down one of the hills to the verge of the village. I was
+strolling in that direction, not a hundred yards from the huts--before
+the arrival of my baggage--when two men ran after me and begged me to
+come back on account of the number of tigers there. I imagined they
+meant leopards, but on making enquiries I find cows are carried away,
+which could not be done by leopards. This would be a good ground for the
+sportsman, but no Europeans come here as it is off the regular track up
+the valley. I crossed the river this morning by a ricketty bridge built
+of a couple of firs, on which logs were loosely laid, leaving the main
+road which runs along the other or right bank. Just behind my tent a
+stream of deliciously cold and transparent water issues from the hill
+side; a rough sort of shed is erected over it, and the water is
+conducted a short distance in a wooden trough, from the end of which it
+falls to the ground. It is the custom in Kashmir to build over the
+springs and esteem them holy. No mosquitoes up here, delightful prospect
+of a good night's rest.
+
+
+JULY 31st.--Back to Kungan in one march, but did not encamp on the same
+ground as before, as I found a better place by the side of the river. I
+have been thinking all the morning about my future career, whether I
+shall obtain the appointment in the Guards that I have applied for, (my
+application has by this time reached England) if not, what will they do
+with me when I get home, or shall I remain in the army? These questions
+have been running in my head and occasionally a more delicate one
+obtruded. Shall I marry, and if so, when and whom, and here, where all
+my thoughts are revealed, I must needs confess that now at twenty-nine
+years of age, I begin to weary of single blessedness, and long for a
+fair, loving, and loveable companion. Now my gentle lady reader, here is
+a chance for you, if you are content with honest love without adoration,
+faithfulness without romance; for my romantic days have passed. I have
+learnt the sober realities of life, and among them the truth of God's
+declaration that it is not good for man to be alone. The _Saturday
+Review_ in recent articles, "The Girl of the Period, &c.," holds out a
+poor prospect for the would be benedict, and I fear there is much truth
+in the assertion that the majority of our young women are husband
+hunting, that they make matrimony their one great object, and will
+condescend to any means whereby to attain the personal independance
+given them by that position, that these marriages without love, only
+prompted by selfish considerations, are followed by a total neglect of
+all wifely duties--nay more, that even maternal care and tenderness have
+nearly ceased to exist. It is a sad picture, and sternly drawn. The
+well-known power of the paper is put forth in its highest degree, and
+withering sarcasm, and bitter contempt accompany its stern reproofs.
+Yet there is a final wail of despair at the unlikelihood of any change
+for good being effected. This evil like most others is of our own
+making. We men no longer marry while young, but when middle-aged or with
+grey hairs beginning to show, a man desires a wife, he will most likely
+choose one five and twenty years his junior. The girl often marry thus
+because she cannot get a husband of her own age, and a very few years
+lost will doom her to perpetual spinsterhood. It is necessarily a
+marriage without love, a lucky one if there be respect. Girls have
+learnt that it is useless to bestow their affections where nature would
+have them, and and it is scarcely a matter for surprise that they
+should in consequence endeavour to repress them altogether. Moral for my
+own use. Marry while I am young, or not at all.
+
+
+AUGUST 1st.--To Wangut nine miles rough and hilly walking. I lost the
+path once, and had a long scramble before I regained it. Though not a
+pleasant march the scenery is very fine and picturesque. Wangut lies up
+a short and contracted valley, an offshoot of the Scind which is a much
+larger one, and the mountains around it are very grand especially at the
+head of the valley, I put up large coveys of grey partridge on the road.
+I have come here for the purpose of visiting some mines two miles
+further on, and I intend to halt to-morrow and walk to see them. There
+is a great row going on while I write this, the natives appear unwilling
+to furnish supplies (milk, eggs, &c.,) and my boatman who has
+accompanied me is applying his stick freely by way of persuasion. There
+is of course a Babel of tongues and I sit within a few yards, quietly
+ignoring the proceeding, though if necessary, I shall get up and add
+some lusty whacks as my share of the argument. A mountain torrent--a
+tributary of the Scind runs down the valley with the usual noise and
+hurly burly. A travelling native carpenter is here, and all the village
+are bringing their ploughs to be mended, he is very clever with his
+hoe-shaped hatchet fashioning the hard walnut wood so correctly with it,
+that the chisel is hardly necessary for the few finishing touches. I
+have seen him make some wooden ladles very rapidly, and he has provided
+me with a new set of tent pegs and mallet and a wooden roller, by means
+of which I hope to avoid the digital process in the manufacture of my
+chepatties.
+
+
+AUGUST 2nd, Sunday.--Sitting having my feet washed by a servant
+(delightful sensation) after my return from the ruin of Rajdainbul and
+Nagbul. I meditate on the mutability of all things human. I have taken a
+walk before breakfast this Sabbath morning to witness the overthrow of
+former magnificence and the destruction of man's crafty handiwork. These
+two temples erected many long years ago in honour of a Hindoo Deity
+named Naranay, now stand desolate piles in the dense jungle. Fallen
+stones cover the ground and great trees grow from the interstices of
+those that still hold together and retain a semblance of their original
+shape. Confusion reigns supreme and the place that was once the scene of
+mistaken worship, is now only the haunt of the wild beast and deadly
+reptile. The thoughts which such a sight suggest, have been the theme of
+many a moralist, but the great lesson it teaches cannot lose any of its
+importance by repetition. Yet a consideration of the littleness of man
+and the utter vanity of his proudest works is, I fear, distasteful to
+most of us; we cannot bear to be forced to admit our own insignificance.
+We go to church and cry "what is man that Thou art mindful of him," but
+the words are but empty sounds. Our preachers may tell us that life is
+but a shadow, but they speak to unwilling and heedless ears, and we go
+on ignoring the fact, crying peace, and stifling our conscience by a
+form of religion without godliness. We are arrogant, high-minded, puffed
+up in our own conceit, and though there are many that would wish to be
+considered holy, how few there are that are humble men of heart, and
+time continues to repeat the old, old story, filling our grave-yards,
+destroying our works; creation alone remaining stable, waiting for the
+end. These ruins are small in size, and their architecture rude, though
+the individual blocks are certainly large and well though not
+elaborately carved. But they produce a strange impression of awe by the
+dreary solitude and wildness of their position which is perhaps peculiar
+to themselves, although they lack both the fairy elegance of Netley
+Abbey, and the massive grandeur of a Pevensey Castle. The men who
+accompanied me advanced very cautiously through the thick underwood,
+beating with their sticks in order to drive away the Iguana Lizards,
+which they call the "bis cobra" and hold in deadly fear, believing its
+bite to be most surely fatal. This belief is universal among the natives
+of India, but there is no proof of its truth, and I need hardly say that
+the dental arrangement of Bactrachian reptiles is incompatible with the
+possession of poisonous qualities. But though science will not admit it,
+it is strange that the idea is so widely spread, especially as the
+natives do not fear any other species of lizard, while they believe that
+every snake is armed with the fatal fang.
+
+
+AUGUST 3rd.--Heavy rain prevented my departure from Wangut, at the usual
+early hour, but about 9 o'clock it cleared up, and I marched on Arric
+eight miles distant down a path on the right bank of the river, (I
+ascended the valley on the other side.) The rain has made it very
+slippery, and it was a fatiguing walk the road not being good, and
+occasionally dangerous; one part fairly beat me, I was expected to pass
+round a smooth rock by means of several ledges one inch wide and four or
+five long, cut on its surface. The precipice below was deep, and when I
+had taken one step, and found myself hanging over it; I determined to go
+back and try another way. The other way is bad enough, but all I object
+to is having my safety depending upon a single foothold. I like to have
+at least one chance of recovering myself if I slip. My walnut tree
+to-day is covered with mistletoe and my mind is directed to Christmas
+time, and all its (to us) sad associations. Three Christmases have I
+spent away from England, and a fourth is now approaching, one of them on
+the ocean, and two in the tented field, the next will I fancy also find
+me under canvass, but I trust on my way homewards. Westward Ho! is my
+cry; let the gorgeous East with its money bags, its luxuries, and its
+many hours of idleness, remain for those who are content to exchange
+home-ties and the enjoyment of life for dreary exile and too often
+untimely death, who will sell their minds and bodies for the price of
+rupees.
+
+
+AUGUST 4th.--Marched back to Ganderbul, nine miles. Ganderbul is a very
+small place, and the only object of interest I noticed, was a very old
+bridge built of rough stones, standing now upon dry land, for the Scind
+has left its former channel and runs one hundred yards to to the south
+of it, three of the arches remain entire and connected, and at least
+twelve others are either decayed or destroyed. This bridge is evidently
+of very ancient date. On emerging from the Scind valley, I got a better
+view of the vale than I have before had. It was a clear but cloudy
+morning--one of those grey days when rays abound, and photographic
+efforts are most successful--and every distant object was seen with
+great distinctness. The snowy Pin Punjaul range, in its southern
+boundary looked magnificent, rising abruptly from the level and
+beautiful plain. On board the boat again, I continued the journey
+towards Srenuggur. We had not been long afloat before a sudden squall
+came down from the hills and blew the roof of the boat off; it took a
+long time to repair the mischief, but fortunately all the matting was
+blown on to the bank, it was eventually replaced and we proceeded
+onwards in a tolerably direct line to the capital, ten miles distant.
+But near sunset the wind increased again, and compelled us to take
+refuge in a sheltered nook within a mile or two of Srenuggur, the fort
+standing above us on the summit of a hill--imposing from its apparently
+impregnable position--and there we remained all night.
+
+
+AUGUST 5th.--Starting early, I soon arrived at the outskirts of the
+town, and the boat entered a canal with houses on both sides. There was
+some delay at a lock and great excitement in pushing over the fall
+caused by the rash of the water. Passed through the city which is a
+large one, and encamped under chenars on the banks of the canal on the
+other side. The Baboo-Mohu Chundee, an officer appointed by the
+Maharajah to attend to the many and varying wants of European
+visitors--called upon me and afterwards sent "russud" or a present from
+the Maharajah consisting of tea, sugar, flour, butter, rice, salt,
+spice, vegetables, a chicken, and a live sheep. Some cloth merchants
+also came and I was led into extravagance in purchasing some of their
+goods. In the afternoon I got a small boat, a miniature of the larger
+one, propelled by six men with paddles. They took me along very quickly,
+and I went down the canal which opens into the Jhelum--the main
+thoroughfare of Suenaggur opposite to the palace and the adjoining
+temple, whose dome is covered with plates of pure gold. It is a very
+strange sight, the broad river covered with boats, and lined by houses
+built in the curious Kashmirian style. Seven fine bridges cross it, and
+on two of them stand rows of shops like our Old London Bridge. I first
+went to the Post-office and got a satisfactory communication from our
+Paymaster, and also a letter from Bill, giving me the sad tidings of
+poor Tyrwhitt's death, which took place at Murree a fortnight after my
+departure. It is a selfish consideration, but I cannot help feeling
+grateful that he was prevented by an attack of ague from accompanying
+me, as he intended. I then went to Sumnad Sha's, the great shawl
+merchant, and turned some of the Paymaster's paper into silver currency.
+He showed me his stock, and I wished that I possessed the means of
+purchasing his goods. But even here a good shawl costs thirty or forty
+pounds, very magnificent they are, but I need not describe that which
+every English lady knows and longs for, if she has not it. Hewson, the
+Paymaster at Chinsurah, is encamped within one hundred yards of me.
+Passing in his boat he recognised me, and we went and had a swim and
+talked over old times at the Depôt.
+
+
+AUGUST 6th.--Bought some tackle and went fishing, but the hooks were
+rotten and the fish broke several. I only succeeded in landing one trout
+of nearly two pounds weight. The spoon bait is a favourite one here.
+Bought a variety of stones and pebbles. Ladûk, Yarkund, Opals, Garnets,
+&c., for making brooches, bracelets, and studs. I was a long while
+making the selection and a long while bargaining, but I seem to have got
+them cheap; at all events for less money than Hewson has paid for his.
+This, and fishing, occupied the whole day--which was consequently an
+uneventful one. In the evening I borrowed writing materials from Hewson,
+and wrote a letter to Bell.
+
+
+AUGUST 7th.--Went out spearing fish, but found it difficult in
+consequence of the allowance necessary for the refraction of the water
+and the movement of the fish. There is a great temptation to strike in
+an apparently direct line with the fish, which I need hardly say, even
+if the fish be stationary does not go near it. I only succeeded in
+piercing two. But I afterwards went out with a spoon and very soon
+landed a couple of trout of two and four pounds weight. I have found out
+who was at Baramula ---- travelling quietly like a private gentleman,
+still, notwithstanding the paucity of his retinue, the unmistakeable
+stamp of nobility about him made it plain that he was more than he
+appeared to be, obtaining for him the attention which he had wished to
+ignore. As a contrast to him we have here X----, Y----, and Z----,
+noticeable like many other Englishmen, when travelling in foreign
+countries for the prodigality of their expenditure, one of whom got a
+thrashing the other day from ----. Rather a disreputable affair for him,
+if all I hear be true. I dare say many a poor native wishes that a small
+portion of the money these three men waste was given to them instead.
+
+
+AUGUST 8th.--I have done nothing to-day except go to Sumnad Shas for
+some more money, as I intend to leave Sreenugger to-morrow for the
+eastern part of Kashmir. There are two reasons for my idleness; in the
+first place Hewson gave me some books he had done with, and I got
+interested in James' "Heidelberg" and was reading it all this morning;
+and secondly, Hewson left this afternoon and sat a long time with me
+before his departure. To lengthen my notes for the day I ought to write
+a sermon, or secular discourse, (as I have done before) but I don't feel
+inclined to do so. This diary only gets my thoughts when they arise
+spontaneously and require no further labour than the mere putting of
+them into words. To-day my mind is a blank, and I am not going to search
+in hidden recesses for thoughts that may possibly be secreted there.
+Perhaps after dinner something may occur to me worth writing about.
+
+
+AUGUST 9th, Sunday.--On again by the big boat up the Jhelum stopping at
+Pampur for two hours fishing under the bridge (the reputed haunt of
+large fish) but without success, so continued the journey gliding slowly
+along the beautiful river until dark, when the boat was run ashore and
+secured. So it has been an uneventful day with no new scenery to
+describe and no musings to record.
+
+
+AUGUST 10th.--Another day passed on the river. From early dawn till dusk
+we continued towing against the stream, and then halted for the night at
+Kitheryteen (I spell the word from my boatman's pronunciation of it) a
+small village on the right bank.
+
+
+AUGUST 11th.--Started again at daybreak but soon stopped at Bigbikara,
+where there is another bridge. All these bridges are alike and similar
+to the one described at Baramula, but this one is particularly pretty
+from the fact of large trees having grown from the lower part of every
+pier. These trees green and flourishing are high above the footway,
+between which and the water there is a distant vista of fine mountains.
+Fished here, but only hooked one, which I judged from its run to be
+large, and lost it. Above the bridge the river narrowed to about half
+its former width. We are approaching a very grand range of mountains
+which seems to be the boundary of the valley. Before mid-day we reached
+Kunbul and completed the trip of forty miles by water. At Kunbul is the
+first bridge over the Jhelum, the river here diminishes to a breadth of
+only thirty or forty yards, and soon breaks up into a number of small
+streams which mostly rise from the water, then along the foot of the
+hills.
+
+
+AUGUST 12th.--Marched to Buroen, six miles, on arriving found the
+camping ground occupied by numerous "Fakirs" who had lately returned
+from Ummernath. These men are horrible looking objects, most of them
+being painted white and nearly naked. Ummernath is a mountain 1,600
+feet high, and at the top of it is a cave sacred to the Hindoo Deity.
+In July pilgrims assemble there for a great religious festival, and
+these are some of them on their way back. I intended to visit this cave,
+but I have not time now, and I have thought that it may be a trifle too
+cold up there. At Burven is a very holy spring. Two tanks are formed
+where the water escapes from the ground, and these tanks swarm with tame
+fish, some of them of large size. It was a great sight feeding them.
+They all rushed to the place struggling and fighting for the food. The
+bright green water was black with them, and a space yards wide and long,
+and several feet thick, was occupied by a block of fish packed as
+closely as if they were pickled herrings. These fish are also very
+sacred, and to catch them is prohibited. Soon after leaving Kunbul I
+passed through Islamabad, a large town of which I may have more to say
+hereafter. There are two other men encamped here with me, but they don't
+seem very sociable, and I don't care much for the society of strangers;
+we have exchanged "good mornings" and that is all, and now sit staring
+at each other at a distance of twenty yards. How different it would have
+been if we were Frenchmen instead of cold-blooded Englishmen. After dark
+the fakirs had a "tomasha." Singing, bell ringing, tambourine-beating,
+and the blowing of discordant horns all at the same time, constituted a
+delightful music--to them at least--and was continued for hours,
+interrupted by shouting and yelling, and with this din going on I now
+hope to sleep.
+
+
+AUGUST 13th.--Marched back to Islamabad, seven miles, by another road,
+as I first visited the ruins of Martund, a temple built (so the legend
+goes) ages ago by "gin men" or demons of gigantic stature. These are
+really grand ruins, whether position, site, or architecture be
+considered. They stand on an open plain, on the summit of a ridge, from
+which is a fine view of the surrounding mountains, which are much higher
+than in the western part of Kashmir. In the centre is a large block,
+containing several rooms, the huge stones of which it is built being
+elaborately carved. There are many niches containing figures, but the
+defacing hand of time has sadly marred them. On two sides of this
+building and only a few feet distant from it rise a couple of wings, and
+the whole is enclosed by a stone screen, perforated by trefoil arches,
+and having on its inner side a row of fluted columns. In the middle of
+the south side of the screens is the main entrance, the pillars of which
+are very tall. Vigne, classes these ruins among the finest in the world,
+and perhaps he is right. At Islamabad there are several bungalows
+provided for visitors, and I went into one of them, having first
+cleared it of the "fakirs"--who are here too. These bungalows stand by
+tanks in which are tame fish, as at Burven. A spring issues from the
+hill side, just above them. Two men of the 7th Hussars, Walker and
+Verschoyle, occupied another, and I breakfasted with them. Adjoining the
+tanks is a small pleasure garden, with some buildings which are
+inhabited by the Maharajah when he visits Islamabad. The place reminds
+me more of a tea garden in the New Road, than the resort of Royalty. The
+water from the tanks escapes under the front bungalow forming a pretty
+cascade. Dined and passed the evening with the other fellows.
+
+
+AUGUST 14th.--To Atchebul, six miles. This is a charming spot. It is a
+pavilion and garden built--if my memory serves me--by the Emperor Shah
+Jehan, for his wife; at its upper end rises a hill covered with small
+deodars and other trees, and from the foot of this hill four springs
+gush forth from crevices in the rock. The volume of water is very large,
+and it is conveyed into three tanks at different levels. These tanks are
+connected by broad canals lined with stone, and at the extremity of each
+canal is a fine waterfall. There are also two lateral canals which run
+through the whole length of the gardens, from the boundary of which the
+water escapes in three cascades, the centre one from the tanks being
+the largest. In the middle tank are twenty-five fountains, which were
+turned on for my benefit; only seventeen of them play, and the best jets
+are not more than six feet high. In the centre of this tank stands a
+pavilion which I now inhabit. Its walls are of wooden trellis work, and
+the ceiling is divided into panels on which are painted in many colours
+the everlasting shawl pattern; it looks as though the floor-cloth had
+been placed on the ceiling by mistake. Along the foot of the hill is a
+ruined terrace built of bricks, with arches and alcoves crumbling to
+pieces. There is also an arch over the canal, between the second and
+third tanks. The whole garden was originally laid out in several
+terraces faced with masonry, and having wide flights of stone steps from
+one to the other; but all is now much decayed, and the garden itself is
+quite uncultivated, except a small portion, and is but a wilderness of
+fruit trees and fine chenars. On the left of it is the old Human or
+bath, a series of domed and arched rooms containing baths and marble
+seats. The interior is in a fair state of preservation, and the various
+pipes which conveyed the water to it still exist. The whole ground is
+enclosed by a wall, and if it was properly looked after, might be
+converted into a very pleasant retreat. In the afternoon Walker and
+Verschoyle, rode over from Islamabad and sat some time with me, after a
+few hours five other pipes began to squirt--rendered patulous I suppose
+by the pressure of the water--so that three only now remain occluded. I
+had a great loss last night; the dogs broke open the basket containing
+my provisions, and carried away half a large sized cake, and a hump of
+beef that had been cooked but was uncut.
+
+
+AUGUST 15th.--Marched to Nowboog, fifteen miles, this long march was
+quite unexpected as Ince in his book puts it down eight miles. It was up
+hill nearly all the way--this combined with the sun's heat--for I did
+not start so early as I would have done if I had known the distance--and
+the vexation of having to go on, long after I considered the march
+ought to have been finished, made it very fatiguing. Nowboog is situated
+in a small and pretty valley separated by hills from the rest of
+Kashmir. I intend to halt here to-morrow, so will reserve further
+description until I feel fresh again. It was one or two o'clock before I
+arrived, and I have worn a hole in my left heel which will, I fear,
+render the next marches painful. Umjoo--the boatman--is now shampooing
+my legs and feet. This process consists of violent squeezes and pinches
+which make me inclined to cry out, but I am bearing it bravely without
+flinching and endeavouring to look happy, and to persuade myself that it
+is pleasant--now my toes are being pulled with a strength fit to tear
+them off. Oh! ----. There's a cry on paper. He does not hear that, and
+it is some sort of relief.
+
+
+AUGUST 16th, Sunday.--The valley of Nowboog is small but very
+picturesque. The surrounding hills are comparatively low, and are
+covered with pasture on the open places, while the deodar and many other
+trees occupy the ravines and gullies. The large amount of grass and the
+grouping of the trees give it a park-like appearance, and the gentle
+slopes of the verdant mountains remove all wildness from the scene. It
+is a pleasant spot to halt at. A little nook which while it charms the
+eye, only suggests peaceful laziness. My coolies sit at a short
+distance, singing through their noses Kashmirian songs. There is much
+more melody in their music than in that of their brethren of Hindoostan.
+Indeed some of the tunes admit of being written, and I have copied a few
+of the more rythmical, as they sang them. The principal objection to
+them is that they are rather too short to bear repetition for half an
+hour as is the custom, there is another music going on--a music that
+cannot be written and will be difficult to describe--I mean the song of
+the "Cicada Stridulantia" in walnut trees above me. This insect--the
+balm cricket--is in appearance a burlesque, just such a house fly as you
+might imagine would be introduced in a pantomime; and its cry is as
+loud and incessant as it is peculiar. To describe it, fancy to begin
+with a number of strange chirps, and that every few seconds, one of
+those cogged wheels and spring toys that you buy at fairs to delude
+people into the belief that their coats are being torn--is passed
+rapidly down the back, with occasionally momentary interruption in the
+middle of its course, while between each scratch you hear a mew of a
+distant cat--another cat purring loudly all the time, and any number of
+grasshoppers chirping to conclude with a running down of the most
+impetuous and noisy alarum, and then silence--a silence almost painful
+by contrast--until it begins again. Such is the song of the Cicada in
+the Himalayan forests. I wonder every Sunday if they miss me at
+Peshawur; for I was organist to the church before I left, and I doubt if
+there is anybody to take my place. I wish I had the instrument here now
+to peal forth to the hills and the wondering Kashmirians Handel's
+sublime "Hallelujah Chorus" or "The Marvellous Works" of Haydn. What can
+be more inspiring than the grand old church music we possess, bequeathed
+to us by composers of immortal memory. Though much opposed to the
+present Ritualistic tendencies I do delight in a musical service. It
+seems to elevate the mind and give a greater depth to our devotion. Go
+into any of our cathedrals and hear the solemn tones of the Liturgy
+echoing through the vaulted roof, and your heart must needs join in the
+supplication, "And when the glorious burst of music calls to praise and
+rejoicing, will not your own soul fly heavenward with the sound and find
+unaccustomed fervency in its thanksgivings." There is perhaps one thing
+necessary, and that is, that you should know the music you hear,
+otherwise the first admiration of its beauty may eclipse all other
+considerations. But if you have studied it, if it is as familiar to you
+as it ought to be, and is intimately connected in your mind with the
+words to which it is set, you will understand its spirit, and see that
+however beautiful it may be it is only the means whereby higher thoughts
+and nobler feelings are sought to be expressed. I bought here a very
+fine pair of Antlers of the "Bara sing"--a large deer found on these
+hills.
+
+
+AUGUST 17th.--To Kookur Nag, twelve miles. I am now convinced I came the
+wrong road from Atchibul to Nowboog, as I had to march back over a great
+portion of it this morning; however, with the exception of a mile or
+two, it was all down hill, and as I knew when I started that I had
+twelve miles to go, I was not tired. Stopped at the village on the way
+where there are iron works, and saw them smelting the ore which is
+obtained from the neighbouring mountains, this ore is a yellow powder,
+and appears to be almost pure oxide. Their method of working is very
+rude; a small furnace, such as a blacksmith uses at home, supplied with
+a pair of leather bellows constitutes the whole of the foundry, and is
+of course, only capable of smelting a very small quantity of ore at a
+time. Kookur Nag is the name of some springs about two miles from the
+village I have encamped at, and I walked over this afternoon to see
+them. It was scarcely worth the trouble. There are a great number of
+them close together and they issue from the ground, as usual, at the
+foot of a prettily wooded hill. The water is very pure and cold, and of
+sufficient quantity to form immediately a large and rapid stream. This
+place lies near the mouth of a wide gorge or valley which leads right up
+to the snows, and down which there must have been at one time, either a
+mighty rush of water or a vast glacier, as the ground is thickly strewn
+with huge boulders. The stratification of one mountain against which it
+is evident the flood impinged--is very clearly and beautifully shown.
+
+
+AUGUST 18th.--To Vernag, ten miles, crossing a range of hills, the
+descent being the steepest I have experienced. From the top of the range
+there was a fine view of the two valleys of Kookur Nag and Vernag. They
+are very similar and down the middle of each is a layer of loose rounded
+stones. The springs of Vernag occupy the same position in the valley as
+those of Kookur Nag do in the other, but around them is a good sized
+village, and their point of exit has been converted into a large and
+very deep octagonal tank, which is perfectly crowded with sacred fish.
+Surrounding the tank is a series of arches, and on the side from which
+the stream escapes is a bungalow for the use of visitors. Six days ago a
+Hindoo was drowned here, and his body has not been recovered--so deep is
+the water, it is probable that ere this the fish have removed all but
+his bones, one hundred yards below the tank is another spring, which is
+the finest I believe in Kashmir. It comes straight up on level ground,
+and forms a mound of water eighteen inches high, and more than a foot in
+diameter. The morning cloudy and very gloomy on account of the eclipse
+of the sun of which I saw nothing. This is my birthday and my thoughts
+have been running over my past life and speculating upon the future
+before me. "But fear not dear reader!" I will not bore you with all my
+musings over those twenty-nine unfruitful, if not absolutely mis-spent
+evil years, or show you how my "talent" lies carefully folded up and
+hidden away, in order that I may have it to return to its "owner". "Oh!
+fool, fool that I am." Knowing better things and with a half a lifetime
+gone, "I find myself still plodding along the old road paved with good
+intentions." The springs of grace indeed surround me, but I am in the
+shallows and the water is muddy. The very "Tree of Life" is by my side,
+but it is a dwarfed and stunted shrub, whose shoots wither before they
+put forth leaves. When will this change? Will my resolutions ever become
+deeds? "Will grace abound: or will faith ever give such impetus to my
+"Tree of Life," that it may grow up into heaven?" I put to myself the
+question that was asked Ezekiel. "Can these dry bones live," and have no
+other answer than his to make. These are some of my birthday thoughts.
+Pray, forgive, excuse me if I have wearied you.
+
+
+AUGUST 19th.--Back to Atchibul, twelve miles, the road for the most part
+level, but there was one mile of very hard work, over the ridge I
+crossed yesterday. I approached Atchibul from the hill I mentioned as
+standing at the head of the garden, and from the top of it a very pretty
+view of the place is obtained. I found the pavilion unoccupied, and
+again took possession of it, set the fountains playing, and imagined
+myself the Great Mogul. Just out of Vernag, I caught a small black and
+yellow bird, which my boatman calls a "bulbul" (though I think he is
+wrong in the name) and says it sings very well. I have had a cage made
+for it, and it is now feeding at my side, and is apparently very happy.
+I'll try and take it to England. I believe it is only one of the shrike
+family, but it is too young to identify at present. However, it is my
+fancy to keep it, so why should I not. The old gardener here is very
+attentive, constantly bringing me fruit. Shall I do him injustice, by
+saying that he probably has expectation of a reward? I think not indeed,
+is it not the same expectation or its allied motive, the desire to
+escape punishment, which prompts the actions of all of us? We do good, I
+fear, more for the sake of the promised recompense, than for any love
+of the thing itself. Light rain has fallen all day.
+
+
+AUGUST 20th.--I halt at Atchibul. I have now completed my wanderings in
+Kashmir, and have seen all I intended except one portion, which I shall
+visit on my road home. My next move will be to ----, but as I do not
+care to spend more than seven or eight days there, I am in no hurry to
+get back. My bird died in the night, and by its death has put an end to
+a rather violent controversy between my Bheistie and boatman. The
+boatman stoutly maintained his opinion of its value and the Bheistie
+with a more correct appreciation, and while explaining to me that it
+was a jungle bird and would never sing, appeared to look upon my conduct
+with a mixture of compassion and disgust, and then they quarrelled over
+it. Was my fancy a foolish one? Some men will spend years in the pursuit
+and classification of butterflies, while others go into ecstasy over a
+farthing of the reign of Queen Anne. My common jungle bird was a pretty
+one, and if I had got it home and put it in a gilt cage, it would surely
+have possessed some value for its antecedents, even if it had proved as
+mute as a fish, or as discordant as a Hindoo festival.
+
+
+AUGUST 21st.--Marched back to Kunbul, seven miles, and took up my
+quarters again on board the boat, fifteen or twenty other boats are
+here, a good many visitors having recently arrived in this part of
+Kashmir. I remained at Kunbul all day waiting for the completion of a
+pair of chuplus which I ordered of a shoemaker ten days ago. I have
+occupied the time by reading Marryat's "Newton Forster" (one of Hewson's
+gifts) and I find that when I read I can't write, so that must be my
+excuse for the shortness of my notes. My head is full of ships, sea
+fights, and love making to the exclusion of everything else. I heard
+you--you said it was a good job, as it prevented me writing more
+nonsense.
+
+
+AUGUST 22nd.--Slowly drifting all day down the stream towards
+Sreenuggur. Past Bijbehara with its fine bridge, stopping there a short
+time to procure milk and eggs for breakfast. Past Awuntipoor--the former
+capital--but now only a very small village, where stands on the rivers
+bank the ruins of two ancient Hindoo temples, square blocks, built
+indeed of enormous stones, but without sufficient architectural
+embellishment to require a closer inspection than I obtained from the
+boat. Another of those charming lazy days on the water, nothing to think
+about, but the time for meals, nothing to do, but to eat them when
+prepared. The eastern part of Kashmir is covered with high isolated
+mounds called Kuraywahs, composed of Alluvium, presenting perfectly
+flat summits and precipitous sides. The top of these was doubtless the
+original bed of the lake at the time when the whole valley was
+submerged, and the present channels between them (though now dry land)
+were cut by the rush of the water, when the Jhelum burst through the
+opening at Baramula and drained the valley. This rush then is shown to
+have been impetuous (and the high banks of the river also bear evidence
+to it) but it seems to me that the mere breaking through of the stream
+sixty or seventy miles away is not enough to account for it. No doubt
+that occurrence was attended, I may say produced by violent
+subterranean phenomena; and I imagine that this portion of the
+vale--which is much higher than the western half--then underwent a
+sudden upheaval, the result of which if only a few feet would be to
+throw its waters with terrific force into the lower portion and afford
+an easy explanation of the formation of both the Kuraqwahs and the
+Jhelum. I noticed in my course up the Jhelum, that it appeared to have
+originally consisted of a chain of small lakes, this would be the the
+natural effect of such a cause as I have supposed. The bulk of water, at
+first, would only have been sufficient to produce a few of them, perhaps
+only the large one between Gingle and Baramula. But as its quantity and
+measure continually increased by the flow from the higher level so
+would lake after lake have been formed among the crowded hills until the
+plains were reached. Then the drainage of these small lakes would follow
+as a matter of course, and the channel of the river be reduced to a size
+proportionate to its constant supply. Dear reader, you are very
+difficult to please. My descriptions you call slow, my imaginings
+frivolous, science dry. Jokes are feeble and personalities tedious
+morality is stale, religion is cant. What, how can I write? You have had
+a taste of all and if you are not content the fault is--well, let me be
+on the safe side--either yours or mine.
+
+
+AUGUST 23rd, Sunday.--We continued to progress last night by moonlight
+long after the sun had set, and started again very early this morning,
+so that the Tukh-t-i-Suliman (Soloman's Throne) and Fort are now
+visible, and I expect to reach Sreenuggur before noon. It is faster work
+floating down the current than towing against it. At Sreenuggur I found
+several letters waiting for me, and amongst them a large "Official,"
+which I tore open with eager haste; thinking it might be a reply to my
+application to be sent home. It was ----. Well, you will never guess--an
+urgent enquiry as to what language I could speak and write fluently
+beside English. I have answered this question some half dozen times
+since I have been in the service, but they never get tired of asking it.
+The date of my arrival in India is another favourite and constantly
+recurring enquiry, and this might lead me to give you a dissertation
+upon the theory and practice of Red-tapeism, with a special
+consideration of the amount of stationery thereby wasted, and its
+probable cost to the Government. It would perhaps, be very interesting
+to you, but to any one who is at all connected with it, the subject is
+only one of weariness and disgust--weariness at the unproductive labour
+entailed--disgust at the utter folly of the proceedings. So I pass it
+by, leaving some one who is willing to sacrifice his feelings, or more
+probably some one who knows nothing whatever about it to furnish the
+much needed exposé; it is customary to cry it down but it is an
+acknowledged evil, the custom has never been fully and fairly explained
+to outsiders or it must have given way before the burst of public
+indignation which such an explanation would have created. I have again
+encamped in the Chinar Bugh, but not quite in the old position as a
+better place was unoccupied. Indeed I had my pick of the whole, for
+there is now nobody here but myself. I received news (in my letters)
+that a field force had left Pindee to operate against some of the hill
+tribes between Peshawur and Abbottabad--ruffians who are always giving
+trouble, and who occasioned the inglorious Umbeylla campaign a few
+years ago. I informed my "boy" that there was going to be some hard
+fighting, and his reply was "With our troops, Sir?" Our troops! good
+heavens! a black man speaking to me of "our troops." It is customary I
+know to call these Asiatics our fellow subjects, but I never before had
+the fact so forcibly brought before me.
+
+
+AUGUST 24th.--I got up early this morning and have spent half the day on
+the "Dul" or "City Lake"--a large sheet of water which lies at the foot
+of the hill behind Sreenuggur. Besides the excessive beauty of the lake
+itself there are many objects of interest to be seen on its banks. I
+visited in succession the Mussul Bagh, Rupa Lank or Silver Isle,
+Shaliman Bagh, Suetoo Causeway, Nishat Bagh, Souee Lank or Golden Isle,
+and floating gardens. A word or two of description for each. The Mussul
+Bagh is a large grove of fine chenars planted in lines so as to form
+avenues at right angles to each other. There must be several hundred of
+these noble trees upon the ground, I do not mean fallen but erect and
+vigorous. The Shaliman Bagh is an extensive and well cultivated pleasure
+garden with pavilions, tanks, canals and fountains, in true oriental
+style. The upper pavilion is especially worthy of notice having a
+verandah built of magnificent black marble veined with quartz
+containing gold. It is surrounded by a large tank possessing one hundred
+and fifty-nine fountains, and its exterior is grandly if not
+artistically painted. The Nishat Bagh is smaller but scarcely less
+attractive. It is arranged in a series of fifteen terraces, from which a
+splendid view is obtained of the lake and adjacent country. Down its
+centre runs a canal, expanding at intervals into tanks and having a
+waterfall for each terrace, with a single straight row of fountains
+numbering more than one hundred and sixty. Grand hills rise immediately
+above it. It contains pavilions of fruit trees, and as a flower garden,
+is superior to the Shaliman Bagh. The Suetoo Causeway, is a series of
+old bridges and embankments which formerly crossed the lake, and was two
+or three miles long, but only portions of it now remain. The two islands
+are small and covered with trees, having no interest of themselves, but
+adding greatly to the appearance of the lake. They are I believe
+artificially constructed. The celebrated floating gardens are very
+curious; they were formed by dividing the stalks of the water weeds near
+their roots, and sprinkling the surface of them with earth, which
+sinking a little way was entangled in the fibres and retained; Fresh
+soil was then added, until the whole was consolidated, and capable of
+bearing a considerable weight. The ground is now about nine inches
+thick, floating upon the surface of the water, and the stalks of the
+weeds below it having disappeared. It is exceedingly porous and is used
+for the cultivation of water melons, when walking upon it a peculiar
+elasticity is perceived, accompanied with a tremulous or jelly like
+motion. It is divided into long stripes pierced by a stake at each end,
+which secures them in their position and allows of their rising or
+falling with the height of the water. An unlucky day for Silly. In the
+first place he was _sea-sick_. The use of the broad paddle in a small
+boat caused a good deal of shaking, and every stroke is attended with a
+sharp jerk forwards--secondly, he mistook a collection of weeds for dry
+land and jumped out into the water. This puzzled him immensely, and
+after he was recovered he sat for a long time gazing with a bewildered
+air upon the surface of the lake. Paid a visit in the afternoon to
+Sumnud Shah for the purpose of replenishing my exchequer, but found his
+shop better calculated to exhaust it. I'll not go there again.
+
+
+AUGUST 25th.--Lying down inside my tent I just now heard two crows
+chuckling and laughing in their way and saying to one another "here's a
+joke" or caws to that effect. You need not laugh at this statement or
+think that my mind has suddenly become deranged, I merely state a fact.
+The language of animals--dumb creatures as fools call them--is far more
+expressive than you imagine, and if you had spent the same time and the
+same attention that I have in listening to birds notes, you would be
+able to understand much of their meaning. Here a conversation carried on
+in a foreign tongue, one to which you a perfect stranger, will you be
+able to distinguish words? No! you will only hear a confusion of sounds
+possessing apparently but little variety. But as you become accustomed
+to it the words and syllables will start out into clear relief; so with
+birds songs--at first they will appear to you to be always the same, but
+they have really different tones and meanings, which you may learn to
+appreciate by studying them in connection with their acts. However I
+heard the crows say "here's a joke" and guessing I was to be the victim
+of it, I immediately jumped up and rushed out. They flew away loudly
+exulting and I found my match box,--which I had left on the table broken
+to pieces and the matches carefully distributed so as to cover as large
+a space of ground as possible; there is a crow's joke for you--there is
+not much in it as a joke,--but I introduce it principally to show that
+birds talk and that I (clever I) can understand them. I wrote the
+foregoing to eke out my notes for the day, not having anything
+particular to record. When the Baboo called upon me with the startling
+intelligence, all officers from the Peshawur division ordered
+immediately to rejoin their respective regiments; this has taken away
+the greater number of the visitors and very few are now left in Kashmir.
+Why don't I pack up and start? Well, I forgot to mention a short
+sentence in the order "except those on medical certificate" which saves
+me the trouble and annoyance of hurrying back before the expiration of
+my leave. It is on account, I suppose, of the little war we have entered
+on with those hill tribes, and I may be missing honour and glory, wounds
+and death, neither of which I care to earn from barbarians on the black
+mountains. I am sorry for the affair as I fear that from the
+inaccessibility of the country the best result will barely escape
+disaster. This is a strange day. You see me, one moment trifling with my
+thoughts for the sake of occupation and then having matters and subjects
+for the deepest consideration suddenly thrust upon me. Ought I to
+rejoin? I am indeed protected from the necessity of doing so, but my
+health is now fully established and such being the case, is it my duty
+to waive my right and return to my regiment. I think not, for the reason
+it is not likely that they will weaken the garrison at Peshawur by
+sending any of its troops into the field. Its strength is maintained for
+the purpose of defence against the Cabulese and other powerful Pathan
+tribes immediately surrounding it, who are deadly enemies, and would be
+eager to avail themselves of any opportunity for offence. Therefore I
+imagine that my regiment will remain in quarter, and do just as well
+without me as with me; and therefore have I determined to adhere to my
+original plans.
+
+
+AUGUST 26th.--There was a great fire in the town last night; three
+hundred houses have been destroyed. I went early to the scene of the
+disaster, which is on the left bank of the river adjoining the first
+bridge. The embers were still smouldering, and among the ruins the heat
+was intense, owing to the houses having been built almost entirely of
+wood, little but ashes and charred logs remained of them. Here and there
+a few hot bricks retained the semblance of a wall, but the destruction
+has been as complete as it is excessive. The bridge has also suffered,
+the bank pier having been attacked by the flames, and half the railing
+on either side of the foot-way has been torn off and precipitated into
+the water. The latter injury was caused I imagine, by the rush of the
+crowd over it at the time of the fire. No lives lost I believe.
+
+
+AUGUST 27th.--At six o'clock this morning a Jemindar or military
+officer made his appearance, sent by the Baboo, for the purpose of
+conducting me over the fort. A row of a mile down the river, and half a
+mile walk through the narrow rough crowded and stinking streets of the
+town brought us to the outworks, at the foot of the hill on which it is
+built. This hill is very steep and several hundred feet high, (I do not
+know the exact height, but I think it is between six and seven hundred
+feet) and the climb up it was fatiguing. From the top there is an
+extensive view, but the morning was misty and the greater part of the
+valley indiscernible. In front lies the town, intersected by the Jhelum;
+a great desert of mud-covered roofs presenting anything but the green
+carpet-like appearance described in books. On the left long lines of
+poplars, enclosing the Moonshi Bagh and the various encamping grounds,
+with the Tukh-t-i-Suliman rising high above them. Behind, the Dul,
+spread out like a sheet of silver with the back ground of mountains, and
+many canals radiating and glistening in the sun-light. Of the fort I
+have but little to say. From below, its position renders it imposing,
+but a nearer inspection dispels the illusion. Inside it there is a
+Hindoo temple, two or three tanks filled with green, slimy water, and
+some wretched hovels for the occupation of the garrison. The ramparts
+though high are weak and a few shells dropped within them would blow
+the whole place to pieces. The ordnance consists of four ancient brass
+guns; two of them about 9-pounders and the others 32-pounders, but I did
+not see a spot from which either of them could be safely fired; and even
+if there were bastions strong enough, I doubt if cannon could be
+depressed sufficiently to sweep the precipitous sides of the hill. On my
+way back to the boat, I turned aside to visit the Jumma Musjid, or chief
+Mosque, a large quadrangular wooden building, the roof of which is
+supported by deodar columns of great height, each pillar being cut out
+of a single tree, but I cannot waste more time over it, the name recalls
+to my memory the magnificent Jumma Musjid of Delhi--but comparisons are
+odious. When parting with my attendant I felt uncertain whether or no he
+would be offended by the offer of a remuneration for his trouble, so I
+left him to ask for it, as natives usually do not scruple to request
+"bucksheesh" for the most trifling service, but either his orders or his
+dignity prevented him from soliciting it, and he went away unrewarded
+and I doubt not dissatisfied. After noon I went and selected a lot of
+papier maché articles, and gave monograms to be painted upon them. Their
+papier maché is fairly made, elaborately painted and moderate in price.
+At this shop they prepared some ladâk tea for me, a most delicious
+beverage possessing a delicate flavour such as I have never before
+tasted in any tea. It was sweetened with a sort of sweet-meat in lieu of
+plain sugar.
+
+
+AUGUST 28th.--A blank day, I have done nothing but fish and only caught
+one of moderate size. Early in the morning there was a storm attended
+with high wind and heavy rain; it cleared up before sun-rise, but its
+effect has been to make the day very pleasantly cool.
+
+
+AUGUST 29th.--Went up to the Tukh-t-i-Suliman (Solomon's Throne) before
+breakfast. It stands one thousand one hundred feet above the town, and
+the ascent is effected by means of unhewn stones arranged in the form
+of a rough flight of steps built by the Gins, I should fancy for their
+own private use and without any consideration for the puny race of
+mankind that was destined to follow them. I am a tall man and gifted
+with a considerable length of _understanding_ but the strides I was
+obliged to take--sometimes almost bounds--if calculated to improve my
+muscles, were certainly very trying to my wind. However all things have
+an end, and so had that long flight of steps, and at the summit I had
+leisure to recover my breath and enjoy the magnificent view. I took care
+to have a clear day for this excursion, and the whole valley was seen
+stretched out like a map, and spreading far away to the feet of its
+stupendous mountain boundaries. The lakes like huge mirrors reflecting a
+dazzling radiance. The Jhelum twisting like a "gilded snake" and forming
+at the foot of the hill the original of the well-known shawl pattern;
+miles upon miles of bright and verdant fields, divided and marked out by
+the banks and hedges; clumps and groves of lofty trees diminished by
+distance to the appearance of mere dark green bushy excrescences; the
+poplar avenue looking like two long and paralleled lines drawn upon the
+ground; the fort and hill but a pigmy now; the city of sombre colour,
+with its houses closely huddled together and presenting an expanse of
+mud--unworthy stone for such a setting! The high and rugged mountains
+on every side piercing the clouds, out of which the everlasting snow and
+ice rock regions untrod by mortal foot gleam and glisten coldly in the
+scene below; these are the constituent parts of a view which taken
+altogether ranks among the finest (if indeed it be not itself the
+finest) in the world. But I have no description for it as a whole, words
+would fail me if I attempted to reproduce it on paper, so you must take
+the items and arrange them to your own satisfaction, and wish you had
+the opportunity of seeing the glorious original. I am no antiquarian,
+but I believe the building itself possesses great interest for those who
+indulge in that musty study, on account of its vast antiquity and
+uncertain history. To me it is only a Hindoo temple of quaint
+architecture and unwholesome smell. Inside it is a small marble idol in
+the form of a pillar with a snake carved round it.
+
+
+AUGUST 30th, Sunday.--The beginning of a fresh week which will at its
+conclusion find me on my way homewards, my back turned on the lovely
+valley and all the beauties that I have witnessed existing only in my
+memory like a pleasant dream that has passed. So wags the world, joys
+giving place to sorrows, and sorrows in their turn effaced by fresh
+happiness or oblivion. For a little while each one of us plays his ever
+varying part in the great drama of life. Now bewailing with bursting
+heart, and scalding tears the light affliction which is but for a
+moment; now with ringing laugh and reckless gaiety he enjoys the
+present, forgetful alike of past and future, now with stormy passions
+raging he "like an angry ape, plays such fantastic tricks before high
+heaven, as make the angels weep;" and then is his short act over, then
+the curtain falls and then will he be called before it to receive
+approbation? Who can tell, I judge not one individually; but I may
+generalize and say, that while as a rule we give a terrible earnestness
+to the performance of the _business_ connected with our parts, we too
+often fail to appreciate and interpret the _spirit_ of the character,
+without which it is of course but a sorry exhibition and one that will
+be deservedly damned. As I sit under the shade of the chenars writing, a
+young native swell is passing along the opposite bank of the canal--a
+mere boy, with gold turban, lofty plume and embroidered clothing, riding
+a horse led by two grooms, followed by attendants also mounted, but
+sitting two on a horse and preceded by a band consisting only of some
+six drummers. He is playing his part doubtless very much to his own
+satisfaction, and little thinking that there is one "taking notes" and
+laughing at his proceedings. But so it is, we can always see, and
+ridicule the faults and foibles of others, would to God we could as
+easily perceive and weep over those of our own. The Baboo Mohes Chund
+called to pay his farewell visit to me and shortly afterwards sent a
+second edition of "russud" including as before--a live sheep.
+
+
+AUGUST 31st.--My last day in Sreenuggur--and now let me make a few
+observations on a topic which I dare say you are surprised has not been
+mentioned before, I mean the women; the far-famed beauties of Kashmir. I
+am not ungallant, while I have been silent, I have been observing, and
+have delayed my remarks in order that they might have the benefit of the
+largest experience I could command. I did this the more willingly,
+because to tell the truth, I was disappointed at first, and I hoped that
+by waiting I might eventually have reason to change my unfavourable
+opinion. This however has not been the case, and while I intend to do
+full justice to their charms I must commence by saying that they have
+been grossly exaggerated. I do not of course allude to the higher
+classes. They are invisible; they _may_ be very beautiful, but are never
+seen by Europeans. But the middle and lower classes go about with the
+face uncovered, exposing themselves to the criticism of some and the
+admiration of others, and it is of them I speak. The slim elegant figure
+of the Hindoo is seldom seen; they are large, plump, round women. Their
+complexion has been absurdly compared to that of our brunettes (may they
+feel complimented thereby) but veracity compels me to say that they are
+_very dark_. Fair indeed by comparison with the Hindoos, but actually
+and unmistakeably copper-coloured not to say _black_. In their features
+we find a great improvement; a well-shaped nose replaces the expanded
+nostrils, compressed lips, the thick pouting ones, their teeth are of
+marvellous whiteness and regularity as are those of all Asiatics. Their
+cheeks may sometimes have a tinge of pink, but this is usually veiled by
+the darker tint of the "rete mucosum." Their eyes--oh! their eyes!--here
+lies their beauty, almond-shaped eyes, that when not in anger cannot
+help throwing the sweetest and most captivating glances. None of your
+trained disciplined eyes, taught to express feelings that do not exist;
+but still eyes that equally deceive, eyes that nature in some strange
+freak determined should ever look love. Unconsciously and
+unintentionally they dart upon you the brightest, the most tender, nay,
+even passionate glances. When looking at a young face, you only see the
+eyes; eyes so voluptuous, so maddening, that you exclaim "good heavens
+what a beautiful creature," and unless you are a calm and cool analyst
+like myself, you may not discover that there is really no beauty save in
+them. They dress their hair in a peculiar manner. It is plaited in a
+number of small plaits joining two larger ones which fall over the
+shoulders and unite in the middle of the back to form a long tail
+terminating with a tassel. The larger plaits are mixed with wool, this
+adds to their bulk, and increase the length of the tail, which often
+extends below the knees. They wear a single loose gown, reaching in
+ample folds nearly to the feet. On the head a small red skull cap, over
+which is thrown the white (too often dirty) "chudder"--a light cloth
+which hangs down the back and is used for veiling the face. The
+boatwomen are renowned for their beauty. I have seen but little of it.
+The Punditanees are said to be more beautiful than the boatwomen. I
+consider them even less so. But among the Nautch girls I have seen both
+grace and beauty, and as a class, I certainly think far better looking
+than the others. Respect to age is a noble feeling--though one that is
+unfortunately at a low ebb now-a-days--but truth, compels me and I must
+pronounce all the elderly women to be positively ugly, and a woman is
+elderly in Kashmir when in England she still might be called young. The
+men are a fine race, regular features, broad shouldered and muscular,
+wearing their bushy black beards on their faces, but shaving the head,
+which is covered with a small coloured skull cap and white turban. Two
+other men have pitched their tents under this tope. To-morrow I shall
+leave them in undisturbed possession of the whole. They are friends and
+have been travelling in Kashmir. I have had a conversation with one of
+them, but I don't like strangers and am glad they did not come before.
+
+
+SEPTEMBER 1st.--Up and away, taking a last look at the town and bridges,
+a last look at the Tukh-t-i-Suliman while floating down the river. I am
+on my way to Baramula, having given up my intended visit to Gulmurg, so
+that I may get a week at Murree, and see more of the place than I did
+when I was last there. Adieu to Sreenuggur, adieu to the Scind, adieu
+to Manusbul; gently onwards we go towards lake Wulloor. It is a bright
+clear day, one of the brightest among the many bright ones, and the
+valley seems smiling upon me an affectionate farewell in order that the
+last recollections and parting scene may be a joyful memory to me in
+days and years to come. I thank thee for it. When I am gone let
+rain-tears fall and clouds of care bewail my absence, but gladden my
+departing moments with the full radiance of thy glorious countenance.
+Oh! Kashmir, loveliest spot on earth, I owe thee a deep debt of
+gratitude, I came to thee weak in body; thou hast restored my strength,
+I was poor in thought; thou hast filled my heart with good things, I
+was proud in conceit; thou hast shown me nature's grandeur and my own
+littleness. With a voiceless tongue thou hast spoken and my spirit has
+heard the unuttered words. Tales of the creation when the morning stars
+sang together and all the sons of God shouted for joy; tales of man and
+his works perished in the endless roll of ages; tales of the future when
+heaven and earth shall have passed away amid the dread terror of the
+great tribulation. Aye, and one more tale, a tale of love, mercy, and
+forgiveness; the tale of an Asiatic--who, not far from here, was once
+"bruised for our transgressions," who took upon Himself the iniquities
+of us all and made up for us a mighty deliverance, and to this tale
+there is a refrain that echoes from hill to hill, and spreads along the
+plain in endless repetition, "believe only and thou shalt be saved," but
+though the command is so simple, its eager passionate tone as it swells
+around me, and an earnest mournful cadence as it dies away in the
+distance, seems to imply that it is neither easily nor commonly obeyed.
+
+
+SEPTEMBER 2nd.--Awoke early and found myself in the broad waters of the
+lake, the full moon shining brightly in the west, and yet unpaled by the
+rosy dawn that was rapidly illuminating the east. Stopped at Sopoor for
+breakfast, and Macnamara, surgeon of the 60th Rifles, and his wife,
+arrived soon after me, also bound for Murree. Macnamara was at Peshawur
+with me, and was one of the committee that sent me away. We passed the
+morning in conversation, and at mid-day continued our journey to
+Baramula. He told me that he had heard that I was going home this winter
+with troops; but I do not know whether his information is reliable. I
+trust it may prove to be so, but it has not raised my hopes to a
+certainty. It is a good rule never to reckon confidently upon the
+achievement of our desires. It never assists to realise them and only
+renders the disappointment more bitter in case of failure. I have a
+great hope, but I do not forget that obstacles may arise, that while
+man proposes God disposes, and often find myself forming plans for next
+year under the supposition that I shall still remain in India. I have
+written the dedication of this volume and have written it as if I had
+already returned to England, and this may appear to indicate that I rely
+strongly upon the fulfilment of my expectation. But not so, I can alter
+or destroy it if need be, and shall do so with regret indeed, but
+without despair. About halfway between Sopoor and Baramula the wind
+increased to a gale and obliged me to take refuge under the bank. I
+dined with Macnamara and his wife at 8 o'clock, the weather moderated
+and we proceeded to Baramula.
+
+
+SEPTEMBER 3rd.--At sunrise I obtained coolies, and turned my back on
+the happy valley for ever. It was a beautiful morning with a golden haze
+rising from the ground, the mountains appearing blue and purple against
+the eastern halo; but before I had gone a mile a dark cloud gathered
+around me, and wept passionate rain. I marched to Naoshera, ten miles,
+followed in an hour by Dr. and Mrs. Macnamara who will be my fellow
+travellers as far as Murree. The Rohale ferry is re-opened and I am
+returning by the direct road on the left bank of the Jhelum. There is a
+barahduree at every stage, so I sold my tent at Sreenuggur to render my
+baggage lighter. I am travelling with only six coolies. The river is
+much lower and less rapid than when I came up it, the excess of water
+caused by the melting of the snow during the summer having been carried
+off. It is still however a noisy turbulent torrent.
+
+
+SEPTEMBER 4th.--A long march of fourteen miles to Ooree. The road is
+becoming very hilly, but is not as yet nearly so rough and difficult as
+on the other side. Passed two ruins; one of then very similar to those
+at Wangut, but much smaller.
+
+
+SEPTEMBER 5th.--To Chukoti, sixteen miles, a severe and fatiguing march,
+the hills being intersected by ravines--the beds of streams--to all of
+which there was a steep descent and corresponding ascent. This is the
+worst march on the Murree road, but though bad, it is much better than
+five or six that I described on my journey from Abbottabad. These long
+marches are very detrimental to my diary, for at the conclusion I have
+no energy either to think or write. I am not using my dandy now, and
+have to walk every inch of the way.
+
+
+SEPTEMBER 6th.--Fifteen weary miles to Huttian, low down on a level with
+the river where I found a number of tents belonging to the Lord Bishop
+of Calcutta and his Chaplain, who are here with a large retinue of
+servants, and are on their way into Kashmir. They had very
+considerately and unlike a certain ---- ---- left the bungalow empty for
+the use of other travellers. Macnamara sprained his knee yesterday, and
+used my dandy to day. One of my coolies stumbled on the road and the
+Kitta he was carrying--containing my stores and cooking utensils, went
+over the Rhudd and burst open in the fall. Macnamara was behind
+fortunately (for me) and superintended the collection of the articles so
+that my only loss of any moment is that of my big cooking pot, which
+from its weight probably rolled all the way down to the Jhelum--the long
+grass growing on the hill, stopped the other things. The six remaining
+marches are I am glad to say short. The three last have been a severe
+trial on account of the numerous and rough ups and downs, and for the
+last mile or two this morning, the soles of my feet were in great pain;
+Silly too was very exhausted even to the dropping of his tail.
+
+
+SEPTEMBER 7th.--Got up at daybreak and marched on Chikar, distance ten
+miles. For three miles the road continued along the valley of the
+Jhelum, and then turned to the south, and crossed several ranges of
+hills, each range rising higher than the one before, very hard work it
+was, the ascents being so steep and long--I can't keep my breath going
+up hill; it is far more fatiguing than any roughness of road. Chikar is
+a good sized village with a fort and is situated on the summit of a
+mountain at least two thousand feet above the Jhelum. There is a fine
+view of the surrounding hills from the Barahduree. Shortly after our
+arrival it began to rain, and has turned out a wet day. I had half my
+crockery broken by the coolie dropping the basket instead of putting it
+carefully down at the conclusion of the march.
+
+
+SEPTEMBER 8th.--To Meira, seven and a half miles, a toilsome hill for
+half the distance, and then a descent the rest of the way. Scenery very
+pretty, the valleys being much larger and the mountains higher. The
+Murree ridge is now visible. From this bungalow we can see the next
+halting place, half way up a hill on the opposite side of an extensive
+valley deeply cut by ravines. The view is really very grand--much the
+finest on this road--in some parts it slightly resembles the scenery
+around Darjeeling with, of course, pine trees taking the place of
+magnolias and rhododendrons. The mere mention of those trees--magnolias
+and rhododendrons I mean--will only give you a misconception of the
+Sikin forests, because your ideas will be turned to the stunted shrubs
+of our northern latitudes. The magnolias and rhododendrons I speak of,
+are huge towering trees, taller than the largest oaks. How well I
+remember the magnificent spectacle they presented when in blossom! I
+have never seen mountains or forests that could compare in grandeur with
+those of the eastern Himalayas. Can you imagine Kishun-gunga twenty-nine
+thousand feet high? No! it is impossible; it is a sight that produces
+the most intense awe, and when I first looked upon it I did not know how
+to contain my feelings; but enough, or I shall be giving you a chapter
+quite irrevelant to my journey from Kashmir. By the side of this
+bungalow stands a large cypress; a very beautiful and by no means a
+common tree. There is something peculiarly rich in its dark green
+foliage, and withal, melancholy look, but that is doubtless owing to
+its tomb--stone associations. Ince in his "Guide," calls it a
+_sycamore_. He could hardly have named a tree more widely different.
+
+
+SEPTEMBER 9th.--To Dunee, eight and a half miles; first half, down hill,
+second up: both very steep and rough. A bad fatiguing march. The
+barahduree here has been lately white-washed and looks quite refreshing
+after the other dirty ones; but the rooms are ridiculously small. This
+is the last halt in Kashmirian territory; to-morrow we shall be in a dâk
+bungalow. I had a lesson to-day. The same lesson that the spider taught
+Bruce--never to cease striving to obtain any desired object; and not
+despair even if frequent failures attend the attempt. Ever since I left
+Baramula I have been endeavouring to catch another of the green
+butterflies, as beetles had eaten my first specimen. But they are very
+alert on the wing, and I could not get near one. The last two or three
+marches I had not seen any, having got out of their locality, but to-day
+a solitary one flew by me and I knocked it down, caught it, and secured
+it in my toper. Success will eventually crown all constant endeavours,
+it is a slight peg on which to hang a moral, but let it pass. Life is
+made up of trifles, and I desire my book to represent my life. A number
+of people--ladies, men, and children--came into the bungalow at 2
+o'clock, having made a double march and overtaken us; so we are very
+closely packed, even the verandah being occupied.
+
+
+SEPTEMBER 10th.--To Kohala, six miles, nearly all the way down a
+terribly steep and rough hill to the banks of the Jhelum--which river
+has taken a great bend among the mountains and now runs at right angles
+to its former course. A ferry boat crosses the torrent at this spot and
+the passage during the summer is attended with considerable danger, as
+the stream runs at the rate of twenty miles an hour. I got my baggage in
+it and landed upon British soil at the other side. The Dâk bungalow is
+just above, but we were very much crowded as all the other people
+remained for the night. After dinner a great thunderstorm took place
+accompanied with very heavy rain.
+
+
+SEPTEMBER 11th.--Marched to Dargwal, twelve miles, up hill all the way,
+but the road is broad and smooth, so that the march was quickly and
+easily accomplished. M---- and his wife did not come in till the middle
+of the day as they could not get coolies in time to start early. There
+is a good furnished bungalow here, our other fellow travellers have gone
+on to Murree, so we have the house to ourselves.
+
+
+SEPTEMBER 12th.--To Murree, ten miles, road the same as yesterday. Went
+to Woodcot, and found Spurgeon, Gordon, and Egerton, of the 36th; Hensma
+and Beadnell, 77th; and Dalrymple, 88th. Put up with them sharing
+Spurgeon's room. Spent a pleasant time at Murree, doing very little--a
+long rest of ten days after my labours--and on the 22nd, at 1 o'clock, I
+took my seat in the mail cart with Redan Massy for my companion, and
+started on my journey to Peshawur. Arrived at Rawul Birder at 6 in the
+evening, and went on at once by the Government van. Had no time for
+food. Got to Peshawur at 7 o'clock next morning, and thus ended my three
+months sick leave. And now I go back to the din and bustle of life, the
+empty conventionalities of society, the noise and glitter of mess; to
+the re-pursuit of my profession, and to learn again by the bedside of
+many a dying man how weak and powerless is that profession to combat the
+ills that flesh is heir to. I sometimes wish I could exchange my present
+calling. Terrible thoughts often assail me, after the death of any of my
+patients. Questions as to whether I am at all responsible for the fatal
+issue. Whether by lack of knowledge that I should possess or by careless
+observation during the progress of the disease, I have allowed a man to
+die who might have been saved, or pushed into the grave one who was only
+trembling with uncertainty upon its brink. Yet as a set off against
+these feelings there is the satisfaction experienced when sufferings are
+relieved or health restored by the interposition of my aid. The
+profession of medicine is potent for good and evil. For good in the
+hands of him who makes it his lifelong study; for evil in his hands who
+adopts it merely as a respectable means of obtaining his livelihood. It
+is noble in the one case; detestable in the other. You do not know how
+detestable. If the vail could be raised, if you could see the vast
+amount of misery and suffering caused, the many hearts broken that God
+would not have made sad; and the many unprepared souls hurried out of
+this life into eternity by the ignorance of men who are "licensed to
+kill," you would cry out against the whole body of the profession with a
+bitter hatred, that even the army of noble and devoted minds amongst us
+would be unable to appease. Am I too severe? I fear not. There are
+charlatans and know nothings in every pursuit, but in mine they effect
+so seriously the temporal and may be eternal welfare of mankind that
+their existence is awful to contemplate. Shall I, in conclusion, write
+an apology for having nothing better than the foregoing to offer for
+your perusal "devil a bit." If I have written folly and you have read it
+all, why, you are the greater simpleton. To me it was an occupation when
+I had nothing better to do, on your part it was a foolish waste of
+time, which might have been more profitably employed. If I have written
+folly and you have _not_ read it, what necessity is there for me to
+apologize to you? If I have written sense and you consider it nonsense,
+you owe me an apology for your erroneous opinion. But if I have written
+sense and you have derived pleasure from the perusal of it, then we are
+both content, and I need neither forefend your criticism nor beg your
+excuses. Thus then I have proved that though it may possibly be
+necessary for you to apologize to me, it cannot under any circumstance
+be needful for me to apologize to you. But there is a small class to
+whom the above remarks do not apply. I mean those few who I delight to
+think will read my book diligently and admiringly, merely because _I_
+wrote it. Whose judgment is warped by their affection, and who will be
+unconscious of the weary yawn my pages may often produce. Shall I
+apologize to them? No! let them read, let them yawn; T'is a labour of
+love on their part, a labour which _love_ has prepared for them--and for
+them alone--or mine.
+
+And now farewell. May your shadow _never_ grow less! May you live for a
+thousand years.
+
+HAZOR SALAAM.
+
+
+JANUARY 16th, 1869.--If these notes should ever be written out by my
+relations after my death--for I am now like to die, let me beg that the
+many mistakes in spelling, consequent upon the hurry and roughness of
+the writing, may by corrected and not set down to ignorance.
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.
+
+Prince Frederic of Schleswig Holstein.
+His Excellency Lieut.-General E. Frome, R.E., Governor of Guernsey.
+Sir P. Stafford Carey, Bailiff of Guernsey.
+Edgar MacCulloch, Esq., Lieutenant-Bailiff.
+William Wallace Armstrong, Esq., San Francisco. A.B.
+Mrs. Boucaut, Guernsey.
+General Sir George Brooke, K.C.B., R.H.A.
+Lieut.-Col. H.J. Buchanan, 2-9th Regiment.
+Major Henry L. Brownrigg, 84th Regiment.
+Henry S.R. Bagenal, Esq., Control Department.
+Captain George P. Beamish, 36th Regiment.
+Mr. George Beedle, Quarter-Master 6th Regiment.
+A. Brown, Esq., National Provincial Bank of England.
+J. P. Bainbrigge, Esq., Bank of England, Liverpool.
+J. Banckes, Esq., Shipwrecked Mariners' Society.
+Mrs. Crawford, Guernsey.
+Mrs. Cunnynghame, Edinburgh.
+W. Collins, Esq., M.D., Scots Fusilier Guards.
+Mrs. Cave, Hartley Whitney, Hants.
+Captain G. Collis, 6th Regiment.
+Colonel Conran, Fitzroy, Melbourne.
+H. Couling, Esq., Brighton.
+H. Cuppaidge, Esq.
+Miss Dugdale, 75, Gloucester Terrace, Hyde Park, W.
+Miss E. Donne, Grove Terrace Highgate.
+Miss Donne, Salisbury.
+James D'Altera, Esq., M.D.
+James Deane, Esq., Queenstown, Cork.
+W.G. Don, Esq., M.D.
+Dr. Drewitt, Wimborne, Dorset.
+Dr. Dudfield, 8, Upper Phillimore Place, Kensington, W.
+B. De Marylski, Esq., Royal Artillery.
+Captain P. De Saumarez, Guernsey.
+Captain D.K. Evans, 6th Regiment.
+Mrs. W. Foster, 7, Lower Berkeley Street, London.
+Mrs. E. Foster, 10, Chester Terrace, Regent's Park.
+Mrs. Feilden, Isle of Herm.
+Major-Gen. Sampson Freeth, late Royal Engineers.
+Major-Gen. James H. Freeth, late Royal Engineers.
+Colonel Foster, late 16th Lancers.
+The Rev. W. Foran, Guernsey.
+Walter Freeth Esq., Croydon.
+Henry Foster Esq., Victoria  Road, Kensington.
+Patterson Foster, Esq.
+Kingsly, O. Foster, Esq.
+Mrs. F.W. Gosselin, Guernsey.
+Rev. F. Giffard, The Vicarage, Hartley Wintney.
+John C. Guerin, Esq., Guernsey.
+S.M. Gully, Esq., 9th Regiment.
+F.L. Grundy, Esq., 6th Regiment.
+M. Garnier, Guernsey.
+Mrs. Horridge.
+Lieut.-Col. Fitzwilliam Hunter, 36th Regiment.
+T. Holmes, Esq., 18, Great Cumberland Place, Hyde Park.
+Captain J.B. Hopkins, 6th Regiment.
+Reginald Hollingworth, Esq., late 77th Regiment.
+T. Husband, Esq., 34, Argyle Road, Kensington.
+Charles Hogge, Esq., 6th Regiment.
+
+In Memoriam.
+Miss B.S.H. Coventry Jeffery.
+Captain A.H. Josselyn, 9th Regiment.
+J.W. Jones, Esq., 5th Dragoon Guards.
+The Rev. Charles Kingsley, M.A.
+Mr. J. Kenwood, Hartley Wintney.
+Mrs. Le Marchant Thomas Le Marchant, Guernsey.
+Miss Lefebvre, Guernsey.
+Mrs. La Serre, Guernsey.
+Sir T. Galbraith Logan, K.C.B., Director General.
+Thomas Lacy, Esq., Guernsey.
+Major R.B. Lloyd, 36th Regiment.
+"Library," Officers, 36th Regiment.
+Mr. Thomas Lenfestey, Guernsey.
+Mrs. MacPherson, Guernsey.
+Mrs. Mogg, Clifton.
+Mrs. Peter Martin, Guernsey.
+Mrs. Myers, Guernsey.
+A.D. MacGregor, Esq., Guernsey.
+Capt. A.E. Morgan, late 71st Highland Lt. Inf.
+Captain J.W. Massey, 9th Regiment.
+J.W. Morgan, Esq., 6th Regiment.
+James E. Macdonnel, Esq., 9th Regiment.
+W.H. Marriot, Esq., 36th Regiment.
+S.M. Maxwell, Esq., 36th Regiment.
+A. Morgan, Esq., Treasurer, S.W. Railway.
+The Mess, 36th Regiment.
+W. Moullin, Esq., Clifton.
+Miss A.M. Newman, Cheltenham.
+The Rev. E.J. Ozanne, M.A., Guernsey.
+Captain J. Osmer, 36th Regiment.
+E.F. O'Leary, Esq., 6th Regiment.
+Mrs. Joshua Priaulx, Guernsey.
+Mr. Charles Palmer, Hartley Wintney.
+Miss M. Pittard Guernsey.
+Colonel Priaulx, Guernsey.
+Colonel Lewis Peyton.
+G. Pollock, Esq., 36, Grosvenor Street, London, W.
+C.W. Poulton, Esq., 35th Regiment.
+G. Pound; Esq., Odiham, Hants.
+Mrs. Ramsay, Isle of Sark.
+John Roberts, Esq., M.D., Guernsey.
+George M. Richmond, Esq., 36th Regiment.
+J.L. Rose, Esq., 36th Regiment.
+Mrs. Sandes, St. John's Hill, London, S.W.
+Mrs. R. Smith, Guernsey.
+Lieut.-Col. R. Scott, Fort George, Aberdeen.
+Major Charles Stirling, late Royal Artillery.
+Dr. Fowler Smith, District Recruiting Office, Peterborough.
+Capt. C. Spurgeon, 36th Regiment.
+Capt. H. Stopford, 36th Regiment.
+W. Smail, Esq., 36th Regiment.
+R.B. Smyth, Esq., M.B. 102d Regiment.
+Mrs. Threllfall, Ferryside, South Wales.
+Capt. C. Townsend, Royal Artillery.
+D. Thorburn, Esq., M.D., 8th Hussars.
+Mrs. Wren, 3 Paris Square, Bayswater.
+Charles Williams, Esq., Guernsey.
+Watkin S. Whylock, Esq., M.D., Assist.-Surgeon.
+Capt. H. Webb, 36th Regiment.
+Mr Wetheral, Oak Lodge, Winchfield.
+Netley Library.
+And "Others received too late for publication."
+
+
+
+LE LIEVRE, PRINTER, STAR-OFFICE, BORDAGE-STREET.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Three Months of My Life, by J. F. Foster
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14213 ***